FLAVOURS Issue 1

The generous and satisfying Buddha Bowl has been a signature dish
for years, and they sell a ton of them to regulars and visitors. Ninety
percent of the menu is or can be made gluten free, and there are
many vegetarian options. But for every vegan there is a meat lover,
so the ribs (with a blueberry BBQ sauce) and rib eye steak (with a
wild ‘shroom and peppercorn demi-glaze) from Butcher Dave in
Sechelt are extra thick and succulent. The kimchi beef carpaccio is
popular and large enough to share. With a lot of experience in the
kitchen (sous chef Patrick Millar has a background at Joe Fortes in
Vancouver, amongst other places) the Gumboot aims to lead, rather
than follow, when it comes to fads. Free-range, antibiotic- and
hormone-free, local whenever possible, are givens. And delicious
matters more than anything. “It took a year to get the burger right,”
admits Owen. “The key to the burger is the patty. Butcher Dave’s
coarse-ground brisket. More flavour in brisket and coarse-ground
for juiciness.”
Unable to stand it any longer, I hauled the small family down on
a warm Tuesday night. Though we were early, most of the outside
seating was already full, and some little girls in sundresses were
cavorting on the lawn. Burgers, please, we said, along with juice, a
pint of Tinhat IPA and a spicy Caesar cocktail (festooned with pickled
beans and arguably the best on the Coast). While my daughter
cartwheeled on the grass, we sipped our drinks. The burgers arrived
and were close to perfect. The brioche-style bun was just enough
to contain the basics of tangy sauce, lettuce, tomato, and pickled
onion. Double-smoked bacon or aged cheddar are recommended
embellishments. The meat was savoury but not overworked or overseasoned.
No lumps of raw garlic embedded in too-pink flesh (a
personal peeve). Rather, it was cooked through with a hint of pink,
chewy and tender, and juicy without being greasy. Even my daughter,
who has rejected burgers in several countries now, said of her plain
cheeseburger (copious ketchup on the side), “It was really tasty, the
perfect size, great bun, it might be my new favourite.”
Open Monday–Thursday and Sunday, 10:00 am–8:30 pm, Friday
and Saturday, 9:00 am–9:00 pm, 1041 Roberts Creek Road.
FLAVOURS 2017 11