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FEATURE LA TRATTORIA ITALIANA RECIPES FOR A HAPPY LIFE by Andrea Routley PHOTOS: EDMUND ARCEO 14 <strong>FLAVOURS</strong> 2017
Iarrive at La Trattoria Italiana, nestled alongside Ruby Lake Lagoon in Pender Harbour, and three roosters saunter past the entrance. Chef Aldo greets me. “Ciao!” he says, smiling, and points out Gino, the “big boss” of the roosters. The birds are at home here, shaded by chestnut trees Chef Aldo planted himself nearly twenty-five years ago. In the lagoon, a few painted turtles sun themselves on a log. “I’m always happy,” Aldo says. “I wake up in the morning, see my birds flying, work in the garden . . .” I ask when he started cooking. “All my life. From my grandmother, grandfather, all the time, live from the land and cook.” Fish, cheese, herbs, wine, brandy—Northern Italian cuisine is known for its elegance. But for Chef Aldo, cooking isn’t just about food. It is the synthesis of his passions and an expression of his values: a love of the land, compassion for all living things, and an appreciation of life’s simple pleasures. Chef Aldo brushes olive oil onto a piece of fresh halibut and places it on the grill. A dash of brandy and a flame licks upward. He’s gutted and filleted the halibut himself, which came from the north coast. He tosses a panful of mussels, clams, and prawns, adds a ladle of pomodoro sauce, then over to the Dungeness crab legs. Another dash of brandy. And another dash of brandy for publisher Edmund Arceo, who is here to take photos (and who is ready for the flame this time). There is a more holistic approach to cooking these days, Chef Aldo says, that fosters a relationship from farm and sea to table. Behind Trattoria, tomato vines climb to the top of the greenhouse. Aldo shows off the romano zucchinis and scallopinos, but he also grows carrots, eggplant, basil, and the list goes on. La Trattoria, which serves up seafood like nobody’s business, used to offer marlin, swordfish, and tuna, but now serves only sustainable and Ocean Wise fish, like fresh steelhead trout from Lois Lake, Powell River. In addition to signature dishes like spaghetti scoglio, diners can sample more adventurous fare like kangaroo, ostrich, and crocodile, which are sourced from farms with sustainable, humane, and healthy practices. John, who works in the garden, hands Aldo a bouquet of dill, oregano, and nasturtiums, which will be used to garnish the feast. But before any of these entrees are served, Edmund and I indulge in several appetizers: insalata bocconcini, smoked wild salmon, smoked Jervis Inlet black cod on grilled bread, and Humboldt squid salad. They say you are what you eat. I must conclude that before it was delicately flavoured with sesame and ginger and served on Belgium endive, this squid was full of joie de vivre, because that is what I experience with the first bite. “When the food is fresh, it’s good—you don’t need to elaborate much,” Aldo says. He applies this philosophy to life too, sharing observations about how much we miss when we don’t stop to be fully present in what we are doing, whether that be watching the birds, eating pasta, or sipping espresso. “Simplicity is the best thing,” he says. It certainly is a fine ingredient. La Trattoria Italiana is open from April 1 to November 1, 15426 Sunshine Coast Highway, Madeira Park. Check their website (www.RubyLakeResort.com) for more information, including special events such as live music. <strong>FLAVOURS</strong> 2017 15
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