Eatdrink Waterloo & Wellington #3 October/November 2018

eatdrinkmagazine

The LOCAL food & drink magazine serving Waterloo Region and Wellington County

Issue #W3 | October/November 2018

eatdrink

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine

The

Rich Uncle

Tavern

Ignite Restaurant

Group

FEATURING

La Reina

Stepping Up to the Plate in Guelph

Conestoga College

Transforming Together

Ciders & Sours

Seasonal Sensations

Hammer Time!

Hamilton: A Heaven for Food Lovers

Serving Waterloo Region & Wellington County

www.eatdrink.ca


2 |October/November 2018

EXPLORING THE

CHOCOLATE

TRAIL BURNS

CALORIES

GOOD THING.

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

introduces you to our world famous confectioners

and bakers. For just $30 you’ll get to sample our

Stratford Tourism Alliance at 47 Downie Street.

visitstratford.ca


eatdrink

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine

eatdrinkmagazine

@eatdrinkmag

eatdrinkmag

eatdrink.ca

Think Global. Read Local.

Publisher

Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca

Managing Editor Cecilia Buy – cbuy@eatdrink.ca

Food Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca

Editorial Consultant Andrew Coppolino

Copy Editor Kym Wolfe

Social Media Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca

Advertising Sales Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca

Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca

Stacey McDonald – stacey@eatdrink.ca

Terry-Lynn “TL” Sim – TL@eatdrink.ca

Finances

Ann Cormier – finance@eatdrink.ca

Graphics

Chris McDonell, Cecilia Buy

Writers

Darin Cook, Andrew Coppolino,

Gary Killops, Bryan Lavery,

George Macke, Rebecca St. Pierre,

Amanda Stancati, Tracy Turlin

Photographers Steve Grimes, Nick Lavery

Telephone & Fax 519-434-8349

Mailing Address 525 Huron Street, London ON N5Y 4J6

Website

City Media

Printing

Sportswood Printing

OUR COVER

Preparing gastropub

farm-to-table fare,

Culinary Director

for Ignite Restaurant

Group Brian McCourt

(left) works with

Executive Chef

Benjamin Lillico

of The Rich Uncle

Tavern. Read the

story by Bryan Lavery

on page 8.

© 2018 Eatdrink Inc. and the writers.

All rights reserved.

Reproduction or duplication of any material published in

Eatdrink or on Eatdrink.ca is strictly prohibited without

the written permis sion of the Publisher. Eatdrink has a regular

printed circulation of 20,000 issues published six times annually.

The views or opinions expressed in the information, content and/

or advertisements published in Eatdrink or online are solely

those of the author(s) and do not necessarily represent those of

the Publisher. The Publisher welcomes submissions but accepts no

responsibility for unsolicited material.

Serving up

Great

partnerships

commercial | digital | wide format | design

Let us help with your next project...

519.866.5558 | ben@sportswood.on.ca

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Contents

Issue #W3 | October/November 2018

Publisher’s Notes

Fall Festivities

Oktoberfest and More

By CHRIS McDONELL

6

Restaurants

Audaciously Modern

Ignite Restaurant Group

& The Rich Uncle Tavern

By BRYAN LAVERY

8

Stepping Up to the Plate

La Reina Fills a Void in Guelph

By BANDREW COPPOLINO

14

Road Trips

Hammer Time!

Hamilton: A Heaven for Food Lovers

By AMANDA STANCATI

18

Culinary Education

Transforming Together

College’s School of Hospitality and

Culinary Arts

By ANDREW COPPOLINO

23

The BUZZ

Culinary Community Notes

26

8

18

41

14

38

Beer

Seasonal Sensations

Ciders and Sours

By GEORGE MACKE

34

Wine

Pioneers of “Huron Shores”

Alton Farms Estate Winery

By GARY KILLOPS

38

Recipes

From Farm to Table to Page

Forest City Cookbook

Review & Recipe Selections by TRACY TURLIN

41

Books

The Great Immigrant Road Trip

Buttermilk Graffiti

Review by DARIN COOK

45

The Lighter Side

Pescatarian Tales

By REBECCA ST. PIERRE

46

62

23

45

34


Eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

Welcome to a carefully designed collision

of historic character and contemporary style.

October/November 2018 | 5

Tucked beneath our iconic hotel,

TWH Social is Kitchener's

destination for great food,

community and conversation.

20 Queen Street South, Kitchener

519 745 4321

Toll Free 1 800 265 8749

walper.com


6 |October/November 2018

Publisher’s Notes

Fall Festivities

Oktoberfest and More

By CHRIS McDONELL

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

October means Oktoberfest for

thousands of fans, and Eatdrink

is excited to be an official Festival

sponsor during the 50th anniversary

celebrations in our first year

in Waterloo Region & Wellington

County. Celebrating culture

through food and drink is what

our magazine is all about, and

we're proud to be involved with

such an iconic event. Of course

German food and ice cold beer are

integral to Oktoberfest, but there is more.

The culmination of a year's work and planning,

the dozen Festhallen are hosting over

40 events, with something for everyone. The

festivities extend further into the community,

beyond the parade, and into some of the

region's best restaurants.

OktoberLICIOUS brings the

Bavarian spirit of gemuetlichkeit

to local restaurants, with each

participant offering a prix fixe

menu with special beer pairings.

Restaurants include Blackshop

Restaurant, Concordia Club, The

Easy Pour Wine Bar, Harmony

Lunch, Lou Dawg’s Southern BBQ, The

Rich Uncle Tavern (see our story on page 8),

Rustico Kitchen & Bar, Solé Restaurant and

Experience Authentic Bavarian Foods

at these participating restaurants!

Visit tasteofoktoberfest.oktoberfest.ca for a complete list of restaurants & menu information

Participating Restaurants Include:

• ABE ERB • BLACKSHOP • DEL ENOTECA • HARMONY LUNCH

• JANET LYNN’S BISTRO • LOU DAWG’S • RUSTICO

• PROOF KITCHEN & LOUNGE • SOLÈ • THE RICH UNCLE

• TWH SOCIAL • WHITE RABBIT


Eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

Wine Bar, TWH Social Bar & Bistro (see their

ad on page 5), and Weber Street Public House.

The interesting twists on Oktoberfest fare

embrace the theme while expanding it. How

deliciously Canadian. Prost!

German culture is not the only influence

we celebrate in this issue. Andrew Coppolino

takes us to the heart of downtown Guelph to

a pleasingly authentic Mexican restaurant. La

Reina opened a few months ago and is earning

a regal reputation in The Royal City for an

elevated experience of Mexican cuisine. ¡Salud!

Amanda Stancati takes us on a culinary tour

of her town, making a persuasive argument

that Hamilton is “a heaven for food lovers.”

From farmers’ market to a wide variety

of restaurants, cafés and craft breweries,

there are so many good reasons to think of

Steeltown for your next road trip. Cheers!

Bryan Lavery spent time with the creative

team of Ignite Restaurant Group, who recently

launched Graffiti Market in Kitchener’s

Belmont Village. This new concept is located

in Catalyst137, a massive manufacturing hub

and technology accelerator. Readers may

recognize the Ignite brand for the changeover

October/November 2018 | 7

of The Berlin into The Rich Uncle Tavern in

downtown Kitchener. Bryan takes an in-depth

look at that transformation, and it is inspired.

Where will our next generation of culinary

professionals come from? Conestoga College

has made major investments in its School of

Hospitality and Culinary Arts to help answer

that question. Eatdrink is pleased to dedicate a

story to creative local culinary education.

Our beverage writers also present food for

thought. Gary Killops visited Ontario’s latest

emerging wine region for Eatdrink and profiles

Alton Farms Estate Winery. “Huron Shores”

spans the southern range of Ontario’s Lake

Huron region. Long famed for its beautiful

beaches and spectacular sunsets, this is now

home to a number of wineries making good

wine under uniquely challenging circumstances.

Beer writer George Macke takes a

seasonal look at the local explosion in apple

cideries and craft beer sours. He has a dozen

recommendations, so please pace yourself!

CHRIS McDONELL founded Eatdrink in 2007.

WHERE TASTE REIGNS SUPREME

FINE INDIAN CUISINE

Stratford

10 George St. W.

519-271-3271

Kitchener

725 Belmont Ave. W.

519-208-2811

rajaindiancuisine.ca


8 |October/November 2018

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

Restaurants

Audaciously Modern

The Rich Uncle Tavern, Graffiti Market and More:

Drinking & Dining Concepts from Ignite Restaurant Group

By BRYAN LAVERY

The Ignite Restaurant Group (owners of The

Rich Uncle Tavern, and the newly opened

Graffiti Market, Red Circle Coffee and Red

Circle Brewing) recently purchased the former

Black Forest Inn in the small farming town of Conestogo.

The Sawmill Road property is one of the oldest venue

sites in the region. The group plans to launch Crowsfoot

Ciderhouse early next year. The Ciderhouse will offer its

own brand of cider, brewed in-house using apples from

Martin’s Family Fruit Farm on Lobsinger Line. The menu

will be modelled on the traditional European smokehouse

with a contemporary twist, combining German food

culture and southern smoke barbecue. The complex is

expected to feature a country market as well as serving as

the new headquarters for Ignite.

Catalyst137

Catalyst137 is a 475,000 square foot manufacturing hub

and technology accelerator in Kitchener’s Belmont Village

neighbourhood. Purpose-built for hardware engineering

services and venture capital support in order to create the

next generation of the Internet of Things (IoT) companies,

Catalyst137 is the world's largest IoT manufacturing hub

and is located in a repurposed tire warehouse. The Ignite

Restaurant Group, which recently transformed the former

Berlin Restaurant into The Rich Uncle Tavern in downtown

Kitchener, realized that Catalyst137 was the ideal location

for Graffiti Market, a new dining concept for the growing

number of workers at Catalyst137. The Graffiti Market

combines food, culture, and technology. It was conceived

as a platform to foster innovation and nurture creativity

through a unique synergy of emerging technology.

In addition to the restaurant, Graffiti Market also sells

groceries and runs a microbrewery under the banner of

Red Circle Brewing Co. Led by co-founder and brewmaster

Brett Croft, Red Circle is a brand steeped in Belmont

Village’s lore and pays homage to the craftsmanship of

Kitchener’s makers and artisans. The Market also includes

a coffee roaster (the aptly named Red Circle Coffee Co.),

and a bakery.

Interactive Tables

As a trail-blazing restaurant, retail market, microbrewery,

Red Circle Coffee Company

The dining area at Graffiti Market


Eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

October/November 2018 | 9

coffee roaster and bakery, Graffiti

Market provides customers with

a cutting-edge dining experience.

Ignite Restaurant Group partnered

with Ukraine-based Kodisoft to

provide interactive restaurant

technology dining tables. Ordering

is done with the touch of the

tabletop icons. Tables feature

technology that is 10 times faster

than any tablet currently on the

market. This is automated ordering

from table to the cloud to the

kitchen directly. The technology lets

you view menus, surf social media,

watch your meal or beverages being

prepared, play various interactive

Interactive tables by Kodisoft

Ribbon-cutting at Graffiti Market

games and pay your bill. With a touch, the interactive

table can display photos and descriptions of the menu

items, allowing you to check ingredients and even search

recipes. You can order groceries or a six-pack of beer

from the table while eating, then pay for and pick them

up on the way out the door. Up to 100 seats are spread

throughout the establishment, eliminating a defined

restaurant space. The patio adds an additional 80 seats.

Brian McCourt is Culinary Director of The

Neighbourhood Restaurant Group. His menus at Graffiti

Market feature small plates, larger plates, appetizers

and mains, all meant to be sampled tablewide. Detroitstyle

pizza, pasta house-made with local flour and eggs,

and rotisserie chicken are signatures. At dinner there is

“Spittin’ Chicken,” the option of Rosemary and Lemon

or Diavolo-Style Rotisserie Chicken with seasonal

vegetables, roasted local potatoes, dark chicken jus and

chimichurri; “Steak is High” Dry Aged Striploin Steak,

gouda frites, truffle aioli and onion jam; and Notorious

P.I.G., shorthand for Porchetta, Roasted Garlic & Arugula

Pesto, with tomato jam, pickled onions, smoked pepper

aioli, and crackling on pain rustique.

This is a 360-degree infotainment experience. Kodisoft

is working closely with Ignite to add more interactive

features to the restaurant over the coming months.

There are plans to launch the technology in other

markets later this year.

Graffiti Market/Red Circle Brewing Co.

137 Glasgow Street, Kitchener

519-514-1820 | graffitimarket.ca

daily 11 am–1 am

Red Circle Coffee Co.

137 Glasgow Street, Kitchener

519-514-1820 | redcirclecoffee.ca

monday–friday 7:30 am–6 pm; saturday 8 am–6 pm;

sunday 9 am–6 pm

The Rich Uncle Tavern

Earlier this year The Ignite Restaurant Group

transformed The Berlin into The Rich Uncle Tavern.


10 |October/November 2018

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

When the building was remodelled

as The Berlin, Ryan Lloyd-Craig

spent eight months refurbishing and

reclaiming the Renaissance Revival

style of the building to create an 85-seat

street-level dining room with a long bar.

The elevated open-kitchen that remains

one of the focal points of the space.

The new concept features a unique

and inventive farm-to-table inspired

menu, built on hearty live-fire fare and

a shareable plate concept which pays

tribute to the taverns and brasseries

of bygone times. Defined by an

unpretentious and wholesome approach

to food and beverages, menus feature

Canadian ingredients. The interior is

stripped down to emphasize the frame

and raw personality of the building.

The room is sizeable and has a décor

of exposed bricks and concrete with

reclaimed slats and soaring 20-foot

ceilings that give it a modern rural feel

that makes for an inviting and appealing

ambience. A staircase leads to the second

floor, where there is a study and room

for private dining and receptions.

Chef Benjamin Lillico, formerly

of The Berlin and Langdon Hall,

has an ethical and sustainable

culinary philosophy, caring about the

provenance of food and the way it is

grown or raised. Lillico was named to

The Ontario Hostelry Institute’s Top

30 Under 30 in 2015 and captained

Junior Culinary Team Canada at the

2016 Culinary Olympics in Erfurt,

Germany. His menus are based on the

availability of the best fresh and local

ingredients from small, innovative

farms and top-quality food producers

in the surrounding area, like Soiled

Reputation, Farm Craft Organics,

Monforte Dairy, McIntosh Farms,

Murray’s Farms, Organic Ocean,

Ontario Harvest, Kolapore Springs

and Eby Manor Dairy. A main feature

of the kitchen is a stainless steel

wood-fired grill with a surface made

of V-shaped slates; the downward

slant guides run-off fat and juices into

The Rich Uncle Tavern is housed in a Renaissance

Revival style building and has an 85-seat streetlevel

dining room with a long bar..


Eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

Culinary Director, Ignite Restaurant Group, Brian

McCourt (left) with Executive Chef Benjamin Lillico, of

The Rich Uncle Tavern. The elevated open-kitchen is one

of the focal points of the gastropub, offering dynamic

farm-to-table fare.

a basting pan rather than onto the coals. A

crank wheel regulates the height of the grill

surface over the coals, while a fire cage holds

most of the heat behind the surface.

The gastropub features shareable offerings

such as local and in-house made charcuterie

and a delectable seafood and shellfish board.

There is also a selection of cheese. Handhelds

include Lamb Burger, Croque Madame and

Lobster Roll. One of the most delicious things

on the menu is the roughly chopped Beef

Tartare with Fermented Pepper Emulsion, Egg

Yolk Jam and Fired Toast. There are Pork Rind

Crisps, Truffle Frites, Oysters, Smoked Duck

Breast and Pork Schnitzel with Hazelnut,

Braised Red Cabbage, Parsley Root and Lemon

and Thyme Sauce. There is Wild Sturgeon

Caviar from Carters Point in New Brunswick.

The sturgeon are from the Saint John River

and are harvested in a limited quantity each

summer season. This is the last wild caviar in

the world, recommended by Ocean Wise and

strictly monitored to ensure sustainability.

Whether you’re savouring a flavourfocused

bite at the bar, a craft beer or crafted

cocktail in the upstairs study, or dining

communally in one of the comfortable main

floor booths, you will experience a convivial

ambience, curated beverages and dynamic

mouth-watering fare.

The Rich Uncle Tavern

45 King Street West, Kitchener

519-208-8555 | richuncletavern.ca

tuesday & wednesday 11 am – 1 pm

thurs to saturday 11 am – 12 midnight

sunday 10 am – 9 pm

monday closed

Eatdrink Food Editor BRYAN LAVERY brings years of

experience in the restaurant and hospitality industry as

a chef, restaurateur, and partner in the Lavery Culinary

Group. Always on the lookout for the stories that Eatdrink

should be telling, he helps shape the magazine both under

his byline and behind the scenes.


12 |October/November 2018

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

Stratford is more than great theatre

visitstratford.ca

um

Lorem ipsum

A restaurant inspired by

local ingredients.

Run by workers.

Owned by workers.

Shared by the Community.

7 Days a Week

Reservations Recommended

64 Wellington St, Stratford

redrabbitresto.com

519.305.6464

@redrabbitresto

global tapas with local ingredients

fresh cocktails

Perfect for dinner before or snacks after the show

Wednesday–Sunday from 5pm

85 Downie St, Stratford

(next to Avon Theatre)

519.305.8585

85Downie.com


Eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

“A fun place to shop

for housewares and gifts!”

October/November 2018 | 13

celebrating 122 years in stratford

Emma Bridgewater

“Vegetable Garden” Pottery

Tomatoes, artichokes and peppers illustrated

in delicious detail, looking good enough

to eat straight from the plate.

WATSON’S

CHELSEA BAZAAR

84 Ontario St. Stratford

watsonsofstratford.com

519-273-1790


14 |October/November 2018

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

Restaurants

Stepping Up to the Plate

La Reina Fills a Void, in Guelph

By ANDREW COPPOLINO

With 88 seats in the dining

room and a dozen or so stools

at a long bar, the owners of

a new Mexican restaurant in

Wellington County are hoping to turn those

tables a couple of times a night as La Reina

makes its mark. Opened at the end of June

(in the location that was formerly Van Gogh’s

Ear in the very heart of downtown Guelph),

La Reina wants to add yet another layer to the

burgeoning food and beverage scene in the city.

While Guelph has

food and dining

variety, from fastcasual

to finer

dining as well

as a good range

of national and

regional cuisines,

there was a paucity

of Mexican food

that rises above fast-food

quality. That, at least, is according to

co-owner Bryan Steele and his Guelphbased

partners Conrad Aikens, Justin

Corstorphine and Derek Boudreau, all of

whom have experience in food, hospitality

and restaurant operations. Steele, formerly

a chef, says keying in on authentic Mexican

food was their first priority.

“There are a lot of different cuisines in

the city, but Mexican was one that we did

not really have,” according to Steele. “Van

Gogh’s, where La Reina is now, was a sort of

Chilean-South American scene.”

So, there’s a new queen — and there was

even some palace intrigue and a rush to see

who would ascend the throne. Word had

been travelling through the local industry

that several restaurateurs had the idea for a

Mexican food-and-beverage operation. “We

were first to the table, got the location and

started developing the La Reina concept,”

he says.

Steele stresses that they are striving

for authentic Mexican food. That is the

purview of head chef Jose Matamoros,

formerly a sous chef at El Catrin in Toronto’s

Distillery Historic District, who brought

with him chefs of Mexican background

and representing different regions of the

La Reina — "The Queen" — offers a Mexican dining and

drinking experience in downtown Guelph.


Eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

country. The result is a collaborative regional

influence on the menu. “We really wanted to

fill that niche for Mexican at this level that

you find in Toronto and Hamilton,” Steele

says. The dishes and all their ingredients, as

much as possible, are made in-house, and the

food tries to be as authentically Mexican as

possible. That comes from the people in the

kitchen and what they bring to the cooking,

he adds.

The menu covers lunch, dinner and

late night, with several dishes that serve

well if you want to put together a small

tasting. The classic pastor taco can sit

alongside the heady, earthy taco marquesa

with oyster mushrooms, charred Brussels

sprouts and epazote (a Mexican and Central

American herb that’s akin to oregano). The

Head Chef Jose Matamoros and his staff present authentic

Mexican cuisine with strong regional influences

venison is part of a salad with avocado and a

cotija vinaigrette. La Reina’s version of carne

asada uses flatiron steak, hen-of-the-woods

mushrooms and a marrow salsa. There are a

number of inventive vegetarian dishes too: red

rice with charred cauliflower, mushrooms and

poblano salsa, and a vegetarian taco, to name a

few. There are, of course, churros — delectably

light, crisp and yet slightly creamy.

Dirty Domingo is geared to students after 8

p.m. on Sundays, with $5 specials for tacos, barrail

tequila, margaritas, appetizers, guacamole,

churros, and more. “The DJ starts at eight

on Sundays, and we’re hoping to encourage

students to visit.”

As for beverages, it’s safe to say that cocktails

are currently a major component of upscalecasual

bars and restaurants, and at such a place

as La Reina, tequila rules. But not in a basic

Jose Cuervo way. “There are many recognizable

brands, but there is also a large selection of

tequilas that are hard to find elsewhere,” Steele

says. “That’s the direction we want people to try.

It’s our goal to help people find something new

to savour and linger over — and which is of a

much higher quality.”

Brunch might include, above left, Huevos con Chorizo with

charred asparagus and fingerling potatoes. For the sweet

tooth, left, Capirotada with bread pudding, poached pears

and vanilla yogurt.


16 |October/November 2018

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

The La Reina bar (above) is a popular late-night venue, with

over 60 varieties of tequila on the well-stocked shelves (below)

and a selection of classic and original crafted cocktails (left).

The intersection of Wyndham and Macdonell

on which La Reina sits is graced with eclectic

and intricate architecture that defines the

immediate sightlines and contributes to the

history and sense of place that is Guelph. From

several vantage points at La Reina, but especially

from the 14-seat patio, you have a view of the

1822 Petrie building, a former pharmacy with

elaborate décor and one of the few remaining

structures in Canada which has a stamped

galvanized iron façade. The owners have drawn

on that history as much as they can for their

restaurant. An elaborate tin ceiling in the

dining room, likely a product of late-Victorian

or Edwardian interior design, was re-claimed

from the Aker’s Furniture building, of Great

War vintage, about three doors down in the

same block. Builders and crafters used in the

restaurant build-out came from the Guelph area

and tables were made by a company in Elmira.


Eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

While the focus for the restaurant is on the

food and dining, with the bar originally slated

to be in support, Steele says the evolution

of the space has seen a push to a late-night

bar scene Friday to Sunday. “We’re open

until 2 a.m.,” he says. “That started several

weeks ago, and we want the 25-plus crowd

to visit and be able to have a conversation

and not have to yell an order at a bartender.”

A private room with funky carved sliding

doors can accommodate 24 people who must

be willing to sit with the classic — and quite

large — versions of the calaveras, fanciful

and re-imagined human skulls that are

illuminated. The room was already booked for

Christmas parties in the late summer, Steele

says. There is little doubt that La Reina might

be a (likely crowded) venue to visit for “Los

Dias de Los Muertos” between October 31 and

November 2.

Restaurants evolve, develop and, in fact,

mature as they work through refining their

menus, staffing and systems. In this, its

earliest iteration, La Reina has an energetic

yet quite comfortable feel, so it will be

interesting to see how it grows as an upscale

October/November 2018 | 17

and unique-to-Guelph Mexican restaurant.

The late-night component is growing, and

Steele says that brunch will be available in the

fall, along with a take-away service that is part

of the plan to offer unique goods and services

to the community. “We want to add to the

culinary scene here,” Steele says, noting that

they’ve had initial success. “People understand

what we’re trying to do and the direction we

are going.”

La Reina

10 Wyndham Street North, Guelph

519-265-8226

lareina519.com

tuesday and wednesday: 11 a.m.–11 p.m.

thursday: 11 a.m.–12 a.m.

saturday and sunday: 11 a.m.–2 a.m.

monday: closed

ANDREW COPPOLINO is a Kitchener-based writer

and broadcaster. He is publisher of Waterloo Region

Eats (waterlooregioneats.com). Andrew also serves as a

regional Eatdrink Editorial Consultant.

Your Local, Fresh and Wholesome Gourmet Market.

We are passionate about Food and Community!


18 |October/November 2018

Sponsored By

Road Trips

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

Hammer Time!

Discover Hamilton — A Food Lover's Heaven

By AMANDA STANCATI

A

visit to the city that produces

Dempster’s bread, Maple Leaf

meats, Karma Candy candy canes

and other national food brands is

sure to be a tasty one. A strong coffee culture,

beloved local establishments, a growing

number of craft breweries, and a steady

stream of new and exciting restaurants makes

Hamilton a worthy destination for roadtrippers.

Looking for the best food and drink

in town? Here are some must-tries.

Hamilton Farmers’ Market

The indoor Hamilton Farmers’ Market,

located in the heart of downtown beside

Jackson Square, has been operating since

1837. Visit on a Tuesday, Thursday, Friday, or

Saturday to check out the 60 vendors who

offer everything from produce and prepared

foods to flowers and crafts. Market highlights

include Relay Coffee Roasters for small

batch, organic and fair trade coffee (and a

selection of Donut Monster donuts), Cake

and Loaf for Instagram-worthy desserts,

Pokeh, Canada’s first poke bar serving up the

fresh Hawaiian dish, and Sensational Samosa

for samosas, rotis, curries, and salads.

City Dishes

“Distinctly Hamilton” dishes come in all

shapes and sizes. Here are some favourites.

Hamilton Farmers’ Market

While Hamilton is where Tim Hortons

was founded, donut-lovers in the city know

Grandad’s is the place to go. Donuts are

baked daily and are larger than what you’ll

typically find in a coffee shop. And they come

in flavours you won’t find anywhere else (like

walnut crunch and strawberry fritter!).

Simple yet delicious, Roma Bakery’s “plain”

pizza isn’t topped with cheese (crazy, right?),

but the saucy bread has become the go-to for

birthday parties and picnics in Hamilton. Grab

a slab for the road at the flagship bakery (it’s

also sold at other locations around the city) and

you’ll understand what all the hype is about.


Eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

October/November 2018 | 19

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eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

Putting the finishing touch on S‘mores Cupcakes,

at Cake & Loaf

For a beachfront snack, Hamiltonians have

been frequenting Hutch’s since 1946. The

diner is beloved for its fish and chips, cones,

milkshakes, and old-school decor.

Craft Beer

Hamilton’s growing craft beer scene includes

a number of beautiful spaces around the city

to visit for a cold one. In addition to its drink

offerings, Merit Brewing offers a menu of

shareables and unique sausage options to

enjoy at the communal tables.

Other notable craft breweries include

Fairweather Brewing Company,

Grain&Grit, Shawn & Ed Brewing Co.,

Rust City Brewery, and Collective Arts

Brewing. Collective Arts’ award-winning

beers are celebrated for their limited-edition

artwork on the cans and labels — and make

for a tasty souvenir to bring home!

Aberdeen Tavern

Capri Ristorante, opened in 1963, is known

for traditional pizzas and pastas — both

Hamilton mainstays.

For something more trendy, Aberdeen

Tavern belongs to the same family of the

more recently opened The French and The

Shawn & Ed Brewing Co., on Hatt Street

Diplomat, all excellent choices for upscale

food and drink in stylish environments.

Ancaster Mill and Edgewater Manor

are elegant options for special occasions.

Merit Brewing

Notable Restaurants

Hamilton restaurants serve cuisine from

around the globe. Black Forest Inn has

been a landmark since 1967, serving hearty

Bavarian cuisine including a famous schnitzel

selection. For large Italian-style portions,

Ancaster Mill


Eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

A Group of Certified B Corp Restaurants

Mezcal TNT

Built from limestone, Ancaster Mill is set

beside a waterfall offering pretty views, while

Edgewater Manor serves steak and seafood

beside Lake Ontario.

James Street

James Street is one of the Hamilton’s hippest

neighbourhoods, and has a high concentration

of dining options. To the north is Wild

Orchid for flavourful seafood, and Born

and Raised for wood-oven pizza and a raw

bar. To the south you’ll find Mezcal TNT

for tacos and tequila and Radius for fine

dining and a two-level patio — and loads of

choices in between. This is a very walkable

neighbourhood so get out and enjoy!

Leave room for dessert from Chocolat on

James or Rush Sugar Bar. Coffee options

include Mulberry Coffeehouse and Saint

James Espresso Bar and Eatery.

our Roots, foods, wines + brews

37 Quebec Street, Downtown Guelph

519-821-9271 | Miijidaa.ca

1388 Gordon Street, South Guelph

519-265-9007 | Borealisgrille.ca

176 Woolwich Ave, Downtown Guelph

519-836-2875 | thewoolypub.ca

NàRoma

Pizzeria

294 Woolwich St., Downtown Guelph

parkgrocery.ca


22 |October/November 2018

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

Locke Street

From NàRoma Pizzeria’s fusion of Naples and

Roman-style pizzas to Bread Bar’s from-scratch

breads, pizzas, soups and salads, Locke Street packs

big flavour along a relatively short strip. For casual

fine dining, Brux House and Mattson & Co both

offer quality food and cocktails. For something

sweet to round out your trip, Amo Gelato Caffe

makes gelato in-house!

Dundas

The quaint town of Dundas is home to the awardwinning

fine dining restaurant, Quatrefoil, the

pretty Detour Cafe for a coffee and bite to eat, and

Beanermunky Chocolates for sweet confections.

Winona

Located in Hamilton towards Niagara Falls is a little

community called Winona, home to Memphis Fire

BBQ, a must-visit for meat-lovers. This Southernstyle

BBQ joint makes mouth-watering burgers,

beef brisket, pulled pork, buttermilk chicken, and

baby back ribs.

Also in the neighbourhood is Puddicombe Estate

Farms & Winery. Pick up hand-baked pies or awardwinning

wines at this 200-year-old family fruit farm.

Tasty Souvenirs

On your way out of the city, pick up some culinary

souvenirs to enjoy at home.

Nardini Specialties and Denninger’s Foods

of the World have some of the best European-style

sausages and meats. Lasagna-lovers can pick up

some Mama Yolanda’s gourmet lasagna at Nardini.

For the sweet tooth, Bennett’s Apples makes

scrumptious apple pie, turnovers, and other baked

goods at its market. Sam’s Queenston Bakery is

known for the cannoli, made in a nut-free facility,

along with other Italian treats like mini tiramisu

and rum cakes.

I am sure your visit to Hamilton will be a delicious

one!

Other Notable Spots

The Other Bird is a Hamilton-based hospitality group

offering unique culinary experiences, combining

Executive Chef Matt Kershaw's big-flavour cooking with

CEO Erin Dunham's passion for extraordinary service.

Their motto: “And we just want to satisfy you.” Check out

chef-driven and carnivore-focused Rapscallion Rogue

Eatery, Two Black Sheep, or playful taco bar The Mule in

Hamilton, Burro in Burlington (serving everything from

ahi tuna ceviche to fish tacos), the Woolf & Wilde at

the boutique Arlington Hotel in Paris ON and the swanky

cocktail-focused Hunter & Co. in London ON. — Eds.

From the top down: NàRoma Pizza, Detour Cafe in

Dundas, Memphis Fire BBQ in Winona, and Sam’s

Queenstown Bakery.

AMANDA STANCATI is a Hamilton-based

writer who loves to eat her way through different

cities around the world. Follow her on

Twitter @amandastancati.


Eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

October/November 2018 | 23

Culinary Education

Transforming Together

Conestoga College’s School of Hospitality and Culinary Arts

By ANDREW COPPOLINO

Let’s work from the assumption that

a strong culinary scene in any region

requires well-trained chefs working

inventive menus in their restaurants

and serving a customer base that is engaged

with and cares about cooking and freshly

made food. To that, you need to add culinary

instruction that connects with both of these

other stakeholders.

In good part, Keith Muller has been tasked

with the latter element — and he is clearly

in his element as a program builder. Muller

is the Chair of Conestoga College’s School of

Hospitality and Culinary Arts. He’s been a

good part of the supervision of the 150,000

square-foot expansion, which wrapped around

and expanded the existing Conestoga campus

at 108 University Avenue in Waterloo. The

build-out of the state-of-the-art facility began

in early 2017, and now includes new food

and beverage programs and a new Institute

for Culinary and Hospitality Management.

Muller, formerly of George Brown College’s

culinary program (for 12 years) and of Red

River College in Winnipeg, says that the new

facility and its people will have a significant

impact on the growth and sustainability of

Waterloo Region’s

hospitality industry.

“With our instructors

and these

state-ofthe-art

facilities that we have added, Conestoga

College has increased enrollment and can offer

a number of new programs that have not been

offered here or in the region before. It’s a new

age of culinary instruction,” Muller says.

Students began filling the classrooms and

labs a few weeks ago, and are being introduced

to new equipment and teaching facilities in

far more and far better space. That means an

improved learning environment, but also an

opportunity for Conestoga to engage with

the community-at-large in a specialized event

space that is open to the general public, and

through continuing and part-time education,

according to Muller. That will certainly help

to continue the building of the three-pronged

platform of a strong culinary environment.

The investors were three-fold. There has

been a federal-provincial investment of

about $16 million ($14 million came from the

federal government and $1.8 million from

the province). The College

and community contributed

nearly $28 million, which

makes for a total investment

of $43.5 million. Muller

points out that the stateof-the-art

facilities will help

continue Waterloo Region’s

bid to become a top food

destination. “We’ll supply

qualified and trained cooks

Students work in the new stateof-the-art

facilities at Conestoga

College's Institute for Culinary and

Hospitality Management


24 |October/November 2018

to the industry here and help develop the

food and beverage scene locally. To do that

successfully, it’s important to bring together

the farming community, food purveyors of

all sorts, and the general public,” he says.

To help with the program, Muller, who

has trained as a chef, has experience as a

In addition to creating an improved learning

environment, Conestoga can also offer the community

a specialized event space and more opportunities for

continuing and part-time education

restaurateur and

has run culinary

programs at

a number of

institutions, has

appointed Amédé

Lamarche as

Coordinator of

Culinary Programs.

Lamarche, who was

a faculty member

at George Brown

for seven years,

is expert with

artisan breads,

chocolate and

sugar confections

and is a strong

advocate for local

and sustainable

cuisine. He’s lived

in several Canadian

cities and worked

in restaurants in

Stratford, Toronto,

Ottawa, Whistler

and Vancouver.

A certified Red

Seal chef and

Red Seal baker,

Lamarche trained

at Chicago’s French

Pastry School, The

Chocolate Academy

in Montreal and

Ecole Nationale

Supérieure de

la Pâtisserie in

Yssingeaux, France;

he cooked at The

Church in Stratford

for a decade.

For Lamarche,

good cooking is

about simple and

straightforward

ingredients, and

about sharing a

passion for food.

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

From top to bottom: Keith

Muller (Chair), Amédé Lamarche

(Coordinator of Culinary

Programs), Brad Lomanto

(Executive Chef), Sabine

Heinrich-Kumar (Baking and

Pastry Arts)

“It’s important to create a connection

between fresh ingredients and the food that

you serve people, whether family or restaurant

guests,” Lamarche says. “It’s about being

natural and real.”

Both Muller and Lamarche are excited about

returning the craft of culinary instruction


Eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

to some of the foundational elements that

are part of Waterloo Region history. “Two

major components will be butchery and

charcuterie, which harken to this area’s

rich history and which are hugely popular

movements of crafted food currently at

restaurants,” Muller says, adding that the

College will also be adding a program in

artisanal cheese making. “That’s another

age-old craft we’re looking forward to seeing

grow here and in outlying regions.” Add

to all of that the fact that a new and as yet

unnamed restaurant will be opening at the

campus. Newly appointed Corporate Chef

Brad Lomanto, formerly of the Cambridge

Mill, will oversee the restaurant and the

food and beverage operations at the College.

“One of Chef Lomanto’s most important jobs

will be to ensure a consistency in training

within the restaurant,” Muller notes. As for

the restaurant itself, it is student-driven and

“primarily on curriculum but also on the skills

they are learning. It will be modern, upscalecasual

and urban and an opportunity for new

products and events including wine-maker,

brew-master and cheese-maker dinners,”

he says. Muller has also recently hired a

notable culinary professional to head up the

re-vamped baking and pastry arts program

for Conestoga. “Sabine Heinrich-Kumar will

be in charge of this program,” he says, “and

to do it she brings a wealth of talent and

international experience to the position.”

Heinrich-Kumar has taught at both George

Brown and Centennial College and has worked

and trained at restaurants and hotels in

Switzerland, Vienna, London and Dubai.

A re-imagined culinary educational

institution in Waterloo Region — like the

Stratford Chefs School, Niagara College or

George Brown — is a key piece of the puzzle

October/November 2018 | 25

within the agrarian and farming base that

characterizes Waterloo Region, says Muller.

“It’s a region that is growing quickly, but it

remains true to its rich and historic farming

and food heritage. More and more, we see

good food and great restaurants opening up

with that in the background. ”

ANDREW COPPOLINO is a Kitchener-based writer

and broadcaster. He is publisher of Waterloo Region

Eats (waterlooregioneats.com). Andrew also serves as a

regional Eatdrink Editorial Consultant.

something

for

EVERYONE

Cambridge Farmers’

Market

Circa 1830

Saturday Year Round

7:00am - 1:00pm

www.cambridgefarmersmarket.ca

DINNER SERIES

October-March

Calendar, menus and

reservations online

StratfordChefsSchool

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OPEN KITCHEN

Hands-on classes for the

dedicated home cook.

Registration online

stratfordchef.com


26 |October/November 2018

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

The BUZZ

Culinary Community Notes

New and Notable

Compiled by ANDREW COPPOLINO, BRYAN LAVERY and THE EDITORS

This column consists of regional culinary

news, including a large scoop of local

news and inside information. There

is no charge to be included here, and

we encourage chefs, restaurateurs, brewers,

fundraisers, culinary artisans, farmers — and

everyone else with information to share — to send

us details. Short and sweet! We want to include as

many items as possible. See the end of this column

for contact details.

Kitchener

After a bit of a wait running the gauntlet of

bureaucratic requirements, tiki bar The Grand

Surf Lounge is open for business on Ontario

Street, south of Charles and across from the

transit terminal. The small venue is sister venue

to Grand Trunk Saloon, mere metres away. Both

cocktails and food sometimes arrive in bowls.

That could be the Flaming Crab Rangoon Bowl

or Octopus Bowl to eat and the Scorpion Bowl or

Blue Hawaii bowl cocktails to share. Try the “Three

Dots and a Dash” cocktail — pretty darn good.

Needless to say, there’s a lot of rum here. facebook.

com/pages/category/Bar/The-Grand-Surf-

Lounge-2164155130472121

The Grill House at 825 Weber Street East at

Montgomery in Kitchener has re-opened and

re-branded with the tagline “Fresh Food. Fast.”

Chef and owner Bruce Sutherland, Red Sealaccredited,

has been in the restaurant and catering

business for over 30 years. It’s a venue for soup

and sandwich fare, a couple of breakfasts, some

fresh baking — cinnamon buns and danishes,

for instance — and Philly cheese steak and other

lunches with cevapi, as a nod to the restaurant’s

previous iteration serving eastern European

dishes.facebook.com/pages/category/Restaurant/

Grill-House-245069769648290

We reported earlier that Wooden Boat Food

Company was about to open — and so it has, at

1-20 Hurst Avenue in the Mill-Courtland area

of the city near the Iron Horse Trail. Owner and

chef Thompson Tran describes it as a “ghost

kitchen” that will be collaborating with other

food operations, such as the popular Nate and

Hugo Confections, and a keto food producer.

Striving to be a sustainable operation in all

aspects, including building materials, vegan food

options will be 100 percent vegan with dedicated

cooking equipment and surfaces. Friday and

Saturday nights will feature Vietnamese street

foods that can be purchased for take-away.

woodenboatfoodcompany.com

Celebrating three years serving locally-inspired

dishes, Fork and Cork Grill continues to offer

wine and special dinner events such as a toast

to Ontario’s “cool climate cuisine” at the end of

October. Executive chef Eric Neaves explains the

new wine-making initiative: “It’s a really great

direction with a very low-intervention, naturally

fermented style. It’s a growing trend in Niagara,

and one that I think produces wines with more

complexity,” according to Neaves. “I also believe it

will help us earn more of a distinct reputation on

the world wine map. When you use natural yeasts

instead of commercial, selected yeasts, you get a

wine that’s truly representative of Ontario’s terroir.”

Fork and Cork is also offering fun one-off events

during the fall such as “Smoketoberfest” (October

2-14) and “Taste of Fall” (October 18–November 11).

forkandcorkgrill.com

You can support the work of The Working Centre

while enjoying a good cup of coffee and some

home-made food by visiting this new addition to

the block between Scott and Eby streets along

King Street East in downtown. Located at 256 King

Street, Fresh Ground Café serves coffee (including

Aeropress) and “light-eating” plant-based foods,

such as salads, flatbreads, a whole-grain veggie

burger, quinoa burger, black bean burger, and The

Ferment: hummus on sourdough and veg. And,

rarely seen in these parts, a galette. facebook.com/

freshgroundtwc


D in

anada

Eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

2018 marks the 50th anniversary of Kitchener

Waterloo Oktoberfest. Since 1969 K-W Oktoberfest

has developed its own traditions, combining the

largest Bavarian festival in North America with

the greatest Thanksgiving Day Parade in Canada.

Thousands of visitors celebrate annually in the

Festhallen and by attending one or more of 40

family and cultural events. The local economy is

stimulated through the celebration of this spirit

of Gemuetlichkeit, and over 70 charities and notfor-profit

organizations raise funds to support the

high quality of life enjoyed in Kitchener-Waterloo.

Tickets for the event (October 5–13) are on sale

now. oktoberfest.ca

OktoberLICIOUS brings the spirit of Gemuetlichkeit

to local participating restaurants and provides

a great opportunity to explore the outstanding

culinary offerings in Waterloo Region. Participating

restaurants add an OktoberLICIOUS prix fixe menu

with special beer pairings to their menu for a

three-week period. This allows each restaurant to

participate in the Kitchener-Waterloo Oktoberfest

Festival by introducing German delicacies with

a Bavarian twist to their customers, at a special

price. Some of the past participating restaurants

are Rustico Kitchen & Bar, Harmony Lunch,

The Boathouse, Sole’ Restaurant and Wine Bar,

Marbles Restaurant and TWH Social Bar & Bistro.

oktoberlicious.oktoberfest.ca

Taps and Apps is Big Brothers Big Sisters of

Waterloo Region’s signature event catered towards

young professionals. Join other like-minded

individuals with an interest in tasty food, craft beer,

and networking. Grab a friend and come out to enjoy

10 local restaurants, 10 local craft breweries, and live

music at one of the region’s most iconic landmarks

— The Walper Hotel — all while supporting local

youth in need of mentorship. What better way to

celebrate our community than by supporting the

October/November 2018 | 27

children who grow up here? #MeetKW at Taps and

Apps! bbbswr.org/taps-and-apps

Bao Sandwich Bar is one of those places not many

people know about, but is always packed. Located

in the heart of University of Waterloo and Wilfrid

Laurier University district, it’s a bit hard to find

since it’s on the ground floor of a condo building in

the student district. The bao sandwiches and kimchi

poutine make it worth the hunt. Bao specializes in

Vietnamese subs (Bánh mì) and Taiwanese steamed

buns (Gua Bao). baosandwichbar.com

growers & creators of fine lavender products

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47589 Sparta Line, Sparta

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Mother’s Day to Dec. 19

PLUS June–Labour Day: Tues 10-5

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28 |October/November 2018

Loloan Lobby Bar in uptown Waterloo is helmed

by the owners of Jane Bond and Bhima's Warung

(a local food institution and considered by many

to be one of Waterloo’s best restaurants). The food

and drinks are incredible, but the architecture and

unique design also make this restaurant special.

You feel like you are in a beautiful Thailand resort.

loloanlobbybar.com

The Rich Uncle Tavern got its name from a cigar

that used to be manufactured in and around the

tavern’s current location, back in the late 1800s to

early 1900s. The Ignite Restaurant Group looked

back to find inspiration for the Tavern’s name.

Joseph Winterhalt, a local cigar manufacturer in

Kitchener, then known as the City of Berlin, created

the “Rich Uncle” line of cigars and boasted they

were “10 cents and worth it.” richuncletavern.ca

The name Graffiti was inspired by the Led Zeppelin

album, Physical Graffiti, and allows the Ignite

Restaurant Group to share their love for art and

hip hop. The food philosophy at Graffiti Market is

to create local comfort food with unique variations,

drawing inspiration from Tuscany to Detroit,

and the surrounding rural areas in Kitchener.

graffitimarket.ca

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

Swine and Vine, owned by Jill and Mica Sadler,

was conceived to create a socially vibrant dining

experience where people could come together,

enjoy great beer and wine, and share charcuterie

and cheese boards and other locally-sourced

food. The premises at 295 Lancaster Street West

in Kitchener were previously occupied by Public

Kitchen & Bar, which has moved a few blocks to

Victoria Street. swineandvine.ca

Waterloo Brewing can lay claim not only to being

Ontario’s first craft brewer but also its largest. The

recipe uses fresh, handmade, simple ingredients

and hasn’t changed since 1984. As the thirst for

exceptional craft beers has spread, these brewers

have kept their heads down and stayed true to

what they believe are deeply shared K-W values of

quality, craftsmanship and a spirit of innovation.

waterloobrewing.com

Waterloo

If Indiegogo has anything to say about it, Waterloo

will soon have a zero-waste bulk grocery store at

110 King Street South. Simply named Zero Waste

Bulk, the store will partner with local producers

and sell bulk foods, produce, fresh breads, bulk

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Eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

liquids such as cooking oils, as well as cookies,

brownies and Nanaimo bars. zerowastebulk.com

Look for a major move by the Fat Sparrow Group

that will take it outside of the borders of the City of

Waterloo for the first time, according to co-owner

Nick Benninger. With Marbles, Taco Farm, Uptown

21 and Harmony Lunch under the Fat Sparrow

Umbrella, and mere blocks away from each other,

Benninger says that he’s excited to take this next

step beyond Waterloo. He can’t say much more as

the deal is pending. fatsparrowgroup.com

The folks at Show & Tell Coffee on Ontario Street

in downtown Kitchener have opened Brch Social

(pronounced “birch”) at 1 King Street North at Erb

Street in downtown Waterloo. The store promises

“coffee, cocktails and good company” (or is that

cmpny?). brch.ca

Also now open in the heart of Waterloo’s centre core

at 75 King Street South is Anchor Bar (purportedly

the epicentre of Buffalo chicken wings in downtown

Buffalo, New York, in the mid-1960s). Anchor Bar

Waterloo opened in late August and is located

in Waterloo Town Square in the space that was

formerly Carl Jr.’s, off Willis Way. The Anchor

management report that they expect to sell in the

neighbourhood of 2,500-3,000 chicken wings per

day. That’s a lot of chickens. anchorbarcanada.

com/waterloo

Now open near University of Waterloo is Pilaf

Restaurant — no doubt it serves some rice with

a name like that. Dishes are Indian and Pakistani.

Like so many new restaurants in the area, it is based

on the business model of building a multi-storey

apartment or condo complex and leasing the

ground floor units to restaurants. (The remaining

floors are for students.) You certainly can’t knock

that arrangement, though, because it means many

October/November 2018 | 29

small outdoor malls of unique restaurants for us to

sample. pilafrestaurant.ca

Long a sushi and sashimi favourite in the downtown

core of Waterloo, Watami closed up shop in the

summer of 2016. There was much sadness in the

city. But then, there was rejoicing! To a general

sense of excitement, Watami has re-opened at

14 King Street North in the former Hot Wheels

location. For many, the restaurant is among the

top venues for sushi and sashimi — and it is not an

AYCE. The former location had a terrific ramen that

Farm to table award winning

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5021 Perth Line 8

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info@stonetowncheese.com

www.stonetowncheese.com

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30 |October/November 2018

was served on Sunday. Let’s hope that holds true at

the new location, too. facebook.com/king15north/

Congratulations to Bailey’s Local Foods,

celebrating its tenth year in Waterloo. Bailey’s is an

online farmers’ market where you order what you

want and exactly how much from a wide selection of

farmers and producers within a 100-mile radius of

Waterloo Region. It’s a year-round service too. You

can get more information at baileyslocalfoods.com.

Cambridge

Cambridge-based B Hospitality, a full-service

hospitality group, has grown rapidly in Waterloo

Region. It is the new food and beverage provider

for Lot 42, a very cool and very large multi-faceted

space on Ardelt Avenue. They’ve built a state-ofthe-art

catering kitchen and a 30-seat chef’s table.

“It’s a unique design and multi-use environment,”

according to executive chef Aaron Clyne. “It gives

us more than enough support for catering and our

food trucks.” The area for the chef’s table features

a wood-fired grill. There’s a special temperaturecontrolled

wine cellar and facilities for meat

production, dry-aging and charcuterie. “It’s a

humidity- and temperature-controlled unit with

air purification. We’ll be able to age charcuterie

and cheeses for longer periods of time,” Clyne says.

The company has partnered with a number of local

farms and will be able to do whole-animal butchery

in the new facility. bhospitality.ca

Guelph & Wellington County

For more than 60 years, Reids of Cambridge has

been producing chocolates, nuts, candies and other

confections on Ainslie Street in downtown Galt.

The long-standing sweet shop is coming to Guelph

in October. It will take over the Nutty Chocolatier

space in the Old Quebec Street Shoppes following a

renovation. reidchocolates.com/

The sleek and modern 39 Carden Street is inspired

by the French bistro style, but is not a strictly a

French restaurant. Chef features cuisine with a

contemporary twist, prepared fresh daily using

local ingredients. Snack, weekend brunch, lunch

and dinner items are featured on the chalkboard

menu. 39cardenstreet.com

Eric Chevalier of Eric the Baker on Carden Street

comes from a long line of Basque pastry chefs.

His great-great-great-great-grandmother was the

first woman Cordon Bleu chef at the legendary Le

Grande Hotel des Paris. He sells a spectacular line

of French pastries.

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

The Neighbourhood Group will be launching

their annual Harvest Food Festival at all their

restaurants, where they will be showcasing local

farmers with a portion of sales going to local food

assistance programs. This network of restaurants

includes The Wooly, Borealis Grillehouse & Bar

(locations in both Guelph and Kitchener), and

Miijidaa Cafe + Bistro. The Harvest Food Festival

runs from Tuesday, Oct 16th to Sunday, Oct 28, 2018.

www.neighbourhoodgroup.com/restaurants

Andrew and Kim Wheeler want TOMME Cheese

Shop “to be the cheese shop a food-centric town

like Guelph deserves.” Located off Market Square

on Carden Street, they retail an impressive range

of artisanal Canadian and international cheeses,

along with complimentary foods like olives, salami,

spreads and crackers, cheese panini at lunchtime,

and accessories.

Trotters Butcher Shop and Charcuterie on Cork

Street in downtown Guelph procures quality

local meat from small farms in the Wellington

Region. Nose to tail items are made in-house and

include smoked, cured and fresh meats. Educating

customers about the sources, variety and quality of

the product line is almost as important to Guelph

butcher Brett MacDonald as retailing his delectable

products. trottersbutchershop.com

Guelph has stunning architecture, a strong cultural

fabric and a rich historical background. Taste

Detours highlights Guelph’s history by mapping it

from one culinary experience to the next, offering

an authentic taste of place. Lynn Broughton,

founder of Taste Detours (tastedetours.ca) is a

certified Food Tour Professional. Broughton has

just launched EatStreet: A Moveable Brunch.

This Saturday morning tour starts at the Guelph

Farmers’ Market for a deep dive into Guelph’s

agricultural roots. You’ll receive a sample from a

few different market vendors and then head off to

several stops in downtown Guelph. A bit of sweet,

some savoury, a World of Taste, and much fun in

between. Businesses on the tour include Guelph

Farmers’ Market (Taste of Craft, Rodolfo’s Rebel

Foods and Fengs Dumplings), TOMME Cheese

Shop, Crafty Ramen, The Olive Experience, Killer

Cupcakes Goremet and Guelph Caribbean Cuisine.

www.tastedetours.ca/the-tours/eatstreet-amoveable-brunch

Guelph did well recently at the 2018 Ontario

Brewing Awards. Wellington Brewery’s golds

included Country Dark Ale and Rhubarb Saison,

while Royal City Brewing Co. won gold for a


Eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

refreshing Oktoberfest (they also won bronze at

CBAC for the Belgian-style Dubbel). Guelph has

some of the best beer names too. Double Trouble

Brewing Co. has Hops & Robbers IPA and Grow

a Pear cider, while Brothers Brewing Company

makes Tropic Thunder Pale Ale and Space Beer.

ontariobrewingawards.com

Guelph’s Wellington Brewery is Canada’s oldest

independently owned microbrewery. The brewers

craft award-winning beers in small batches using

the freshest all-natural ingredients. Since 1985

they’ve been a pioneer in the craft brewing scene

by producing traditional style ales as well as

experimenting with new recipes as part of their

Welly One-Off Series. They won five gold and one

silver awards at the Ontario Brewing Awards.

wellingtonbrewery.ca

Opening at end of October or in early November

fingers crossed — Park Grocery will be Guelph’s

newest restaurant and more. It’s a multi-faceted

business and one with substantial history. “It’s

a neighbourhood deli offering roasted chicken,

sandwiches, salads and soups all made from

scratch,” says Court Desautels, Group Leader and

CEO of Neighbourhood Group of Companies (NGC).

But it will also be a bar, offering local beers, ciders

and wine, with a barista-driven café featuring

organic fair-trade coffee and teas alongside artisan

sodas and milkshakes. The first business in the

location was called Park Grocery, which opened

about 1890. Desautels says it housed a variety of

grocers until 1943 when it became a tire shop. In

1947 it became a grocers again, and then Guelph

Delicatessen, before finally becoming With the

Grain restaurant. “With an eye to a sustainable

future, Park Grocery will support a living wage and

many local environmental and social initiatives.

When you consider that this very location has been

serving authentic, great tasting meals since 1890,

WINE TASTINGS, EVENTS,

TOURS, OUTDOOR

PATIO, WOOD-FIRED

PIZZA OVEN

7

LAKE

HURON

SARNIA

21

October/November 2018 | 31

it’s no surprise that this newest iteration of the past

is so forward thinking,” Desautels says.

The Townships & Beyond

Vibrant Farms is growing, with more reach across

Ontario. The Baden-based organic and pastureraised

farm has partnered with another farm and

has expanded home delivery and a more robust

online store as well as greater reach across Ontario

by virtue of a partnership with Erb Transport.

vibrantfarms.com

Alton Farms

EST A TE WINERY

New look

...same great wines!

Grand

Bend

Forest

Aberarder Line

21

402

London

77 km

Available at the winery, select LCBOs & farmers’ markets

5547 Aberarder Line, Plympton-Wyoming

519-899-2479 • altonfarmsestatewinery.com

Brunch

11am–3pm

Saturdays

– Build Your

Own Caesars

& Brunch

Mimosas!

Dinner

Catering

DINNER

226.476.4418

295 Lancaster St. W.

Kitchener

swineandvine.ca


32 |October/November 2018

In its first appearance outside the GTA, Pickle Barrel

is opening two new restaurants in Waterloo Region:

one in Cambridge in the former Milestones on

Hespeler Road (opening at the end of October), and

one in the former Spring Rolls in Conestoga Mall,

Waterloo (scheduled to open in early February).

Bradshaws Christmas Open House: Friday,

November 9, 5:00 pm – 8:00 pm. Bring along a

few of your friends for a fun night out and the

first look at Bradshaws in all its Christmas glory.

There will be delicious food samplings, hot new

product demos, an assortment of holiday giftware,

kitchenware and entertaining items. Free gift with

purchase and enter to win door prizes.

Bradshaws High Tea at Revival House will be held

Sunday, November 25. visitstratford.ca/member/

Bradshaws

A Victorian Christmas in Downtown Stratford &

Outdoor Christmas Market: Sunday, November 25.

Visit Stratford’s historic downtown for the Outdoor

Christmas Market in Stratford’s Market Square.

Enjoy a local art show, crafts for kids and meet

Santa. Shop vendor stalls for holiday foods, crafts

and gifts. Sip hot cocoa, listen to costumed carolers

singing seasonal tunes and embrace the character

and charm of Christmas in Stratford. visitstratford.ca

Stratford Christmas Trail: From November 1 to

December 20 capture the spirit of giving and the

joy of checking items off that list on Stratford’s

Christmas Trail. You’ll discover unique and

individual ideas as you stroll the festive streets,

exchanging six vouchers at your choice of 27 stops.

visitstratford.ca/christmastrail

Appetite for Words: Stratford Chefs School and

Stratford Writers Festival takes place October 27

and 28, featuring a Literary Dinner with Jackie Kai

Ellis at Stratford Chefs School on October 27 and

a Literary Brunch with Anna Olsen, at the Revival

House on October 28. stratfordwritersfestival.com/

literary-events/appetite-for-words-festival/

Stratford's Olive Your Favourites let us know that

new southern hemisphere extra virgin olive oils

(EVOO) have arrived from Chile and South Africa. The

customer-favourite Hojiblanca EVOO from Australia

is due at any moment. oliveyourfavourites.com

Milky Whey offers Cheese Pairings starting October

27. Explore pairings of Seasonal Beer and Cheese

(October 27), Canadian Cheese and Wine (Nov 10),

Who’s Got Your Goat with Pinots on the side (Nov

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

24) and Deconstructing a holiday charcuterie board

workshop (Dec 1). All tastings are guided by cheese

monger Liz Payne in the Whey Back Room of Milky

Whey Fine Cheese, Stratford. Reserve your seat

early. visitstratford.ca/member/The-Milky-Whey-

Fine-Cheese-Shop

The Bruce Restaurant offers a complete take-away

Thanksgiving dinner. visitstratford.ca/partner/

The-Bruce-Restaurant

Stratford Farmers’ Market is a year-round market

operating since 1855, featuring fresh produce,

crafts, meat and cheese. Stratford Rotary Complex,

Agriplex, 353 McCarthy Rd. Saturdays 7:00 am –

12:00 pm. stratfordfairgrounds.com

Stratford Chefs School launches its 35th year with

their “Season Opener” party on Friday, October

19th. Celebrate the start of a new school year and

a new Stratford Chefs School cookbook, Farm to

Table: Celebrating Stratford Chefs School Alumni

Recipes & Perth County Producers (Blue Moon

Publishers). This stunning book retails for $30 and

features recipes from some of the regions' most

celebrated graduates of Stratford Chefs School and

fascinating interviews with the chefs conducted

by Eatdrink contributor and CBC food columnist

Andrew Coppolino and striking imagery provided

by photographer and SCS alumna Terry Manzo. A

good party always ends up in the kitchen and this

one will be no different! Meet the students and

faculty, learn about exciting upcoming events and

the dinner series, and explore the outstanding

facilities. Wine and beer will be available. Space is

limited. RSVP universe.com/2018scsseasonopener

Stratford Chefs School Dinner Series reservations

opened on October 1st! And keep in mind Stratford

Chefs School Dough. This is a gift certificate

program where “dough” (aka dollars) may be

applied towards any SCS merchandise, Dinner

Series, and Open Kitchen cooking class. Purchase

SCS Dough valued at $120 for only $100! Starting

on October 1st SCS Dough can be purchased at the

Administration Office at 192 Ontario Street. SCS

Dough is available in $5, $10 and $20 denominations

and is redeemable at full denomination value. Some

restrictions apply. To learn more, visit our website

or call the office. 519-271-1414, stratfordchef.com

Stratford Chefs School is thrilled to announce Jane

Sigal is the 2018 Joseph Hoare Gastronomic Writer

in Residence. Jane Sigal is a celebrated journalist,

editor, recipe developer, translator, teacher, and

is the author of nine cookbooks. Her most recent


Eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

book, Bistronomy: Recipes from The Best New Paris

Bistros (Rizzoli, 2015), has been widely praised by

critics and industry leaders. Jane will spend two

weeks at the school working with the students and

participating in a number of events open to the

public. stratfordchef.com

Savour Stratford Culinary Trails: Explore the

delicious flavours of Chocolate and Bacon and Ale

on self-guided culinary walks to various food shops

and restaurants. Available all year round, they are

great for a girls’ getaway, a couple’s diversion or

just for fun. Culinary trail gift certificates, great

for Christmas, birthday and anniversary gifts are

redeemable at a later date and can be purchased

on-line. visitstratford.ca/chocolatetrail

Stonetown Artisan Cheese is a purveyor of Swiss

mountain-style cheeses, hand-crafted by master

cheesemaker Ramon Eberle. Using unpasteurized

milk from farmers Hans and Jolanda Weber’s

herd of Holsteins, Eberle uses raw milk so that the

cheese ripens as naturally as possible while the

flavours improve with maturation. Cheeses and

other local products are available to buy on-site

at the farm store. Guided group tours are $5 per

person (minimum 15 people). See the complete

process of cheesemaking with the cheesemaker.

The tour lasts about 60–90 minutes. 5021 Perth

County Line 8 (Kirkton Road), St. Marys, 519-229-

6856, stonetowncheese.com

BIG OR SMALL,

WE CATER ’EM ALL

We specialize in bringing Southern hospitality

and our award-winning food to your special

occasion.

OUR PLACE OR YOURS

Our upstairs event space,

The Lanc Loft, features a

full bar, separate washrooms,

PA system, tables and chairs.

Our fully-mobile food truck has complete

kitchen facilities wherever you need us!

EAT LOCAL. EAT FRESH.

lancsmokehouse.com

574 Lancaster Street West Kitchener ON

Monday–Saturday Open @ 11:30am

Contact our Catering Manager for booking inquiries

519.743.4331 | info@lancsmokehouse.com

We want your BUZZ!

Do you have culinary news or upcoming events

that you’d like us to share?

Every issue, Eatdrink reaches more than

50,000 readers throughout Waterloo Region &

Wellington County in print,

and thousands more online.

Get in touch with us at editor@eatdrink.ca and/or

connect directly with our Social Media Editor

Bryan Lavery at bryan@eatdrink.ca

Submission deadline for the next issue is Nov. 5.

eatdrink.ca


34 |October/November 2018

Beer

Seasonal Sensations

Ciders and Sours, for Autumn

by GEORGE MACKE

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

Ciders and sours. As summer

morphs into fall, these two styles of

alcoholic beverages become top of

mind for me.

Craft ciders, led

by cideries such as

KW Craft Cider in

Waterloo, are gaining

momentum as both

an alternative to

white wine and,

because ciders are

fermented using

fruit not grain, a

gluten-free choice for an alcoholic beverage.

Interest is such that some craft breweries

— Walkerville in Windsor and Toboggan in

London, for example — are adding their own

takes on cider in-house, perhaps with wider

distribution on the horizon.

Sour beers have an exciting tartness, and

are more enjoyable, sessionable and thirstquenching

than an overly hopped IPA. We can

thank Belgium for developing the style which

has been embraced by many Ontario craft

brewers, most notably Half Hours on Earth in

Seaforth. Farmhouse sours, in theory, feature

locally available ingredients and started as a

low-alcohol style consumed around

the fall harvest, as a lunchtime

meal companion or end-of-day

reward after hard hours in

the fields. Look for words like

lambic, Flanders red, gose, or

Berliner weisse and chances are

you’ve got a delightful sour in

your hand.

While many good examples

of ciders and sours can be

found at the LCBO and select

grocery stores, beverage

explorers know the best way

to discover the talents of

Southwestern Ontario cideries

and brewers is to hit the

road and buy direct, or use

the breweries’ online stores

if available.

To whet your appetite, here’s

a twelve-pack of sensational

ciders and sours.

KW Craft Sparkling

Dry Cider —This flagship

brand has been a consistent

medal winner at the

Great Lakes International

Cider and


Eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

Perry Competition in Michigan. This is 6.7 per

cent alcohol (abv) and is refreshing on its own

or with a cheese tray.

Hammer Bent Original by Twin

Pines — Made from a blend of

Northern Spy, Ida Red, Golden

Russett and Jonagold apples

grown in the Thedford

orchards, Hammer Bent

Original leads a family of

nine versions of cider and

apple wine from Twin Pines. It’s

their best, but Crack Willow, an apple wine

made with Northern Spy, Ida Red, and Golden

Russet piques the interest of beverage

voyageurs.

Against the Currant by

Wellington Brewing — Available

as part of the Welly Rebooted Mix

Pack Volume 4, Against the Currant

is a purple monster of tang.

Brewed in Guelph using Ontario

black currants, there’s also a slight

lemon flavour. The pack is at the

LCBO or can be ordered through

Wellington Brewing’s online store.

Oak Aged Blueprint by Half

Hours on Earth — Okay, it’s tough

to keep up with what’s available at

Half Hours on Earth in Seaforth, as

versions of small batch sours come

and go quickly. Half Hours updates

its inventory availability each

Thursday. Earth Oak Aged Blueprint

is a 4.5% abv farmhouse saison. It’s

aged in cider barrels, then blended

with perry (aka cider made from

pears) from Revel Cider in Guelph.

Snag one of these to impress your

friends.

Hansel and Brett’el

Farmhouse Blonde Ale by

Forked River — Aged in chardonnay

barrels for six months, Hansel

and Brett’el is both light (4.6%

abv) and flavourful, but not found

by walking in the woods. Forked

River suggests pairing it with a

Cobb salad. Hansel and Brett’el

is available only at the brewery

bottle shop in London or through

the Forked River online store.


eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

Look for

us in the

LCBO!

FAMILY OWNED & OPERATED • PROUDLY BREWED IN LONDON

1030 ELIAS STREET, LONDON • 548-888-ALES

Berry Berliner by Innocente Brewing

— This seasonal was brewed as a collaboration

between Innocente of Waterloo and craftloving

Beertown Public House (locations in

Waterloo, London, Cambridge,

and Burlington). Brewed with

raspberries and blackberries,

it’s a nod to Ontario fruit

farmers. It’s very light at

3.8% abv with an entrylevel

tartness. Innocente

and Beertown have done six

collaborative brews — keep an eye out for

them. Berry Berliner is in cans at the brewery

or available for growler fills.

Sports by Refined Fool — Named in

honour of sports being one of our most

beloved universal

conversation-starters

(How ‘bout those Leafs?

Finally, eh?), Sports is

5.5% abv and 20 IBU

(International Bitterness

Units). This saison uses

boysenberries. Tasting

notes point out tangerine

and honey flavours. Game on!

Face for a Neck Tattoo by Refined Fool

— Make it two for Sarnia’s

craft brewery. This 5.2% abv,

27 IBU saison uses Szechuan

peppercorns. The name plays

on tough guys softened by

liking the taste of this one.

Keyser Gose by Forked

River — Brewers at London’s

Forked River used lactobacillus

followed by brewers yeast to

create this new gently sour,

citrusy gose, a beer style from

Germany. It’s a brewery store/

Forked River online exclusive.

Spirit of the Woods by

Revel Cider — Guelph’s cider

house collaborated with Dillon’s

Small Batch

Distillers of Beamsville to

create this by aging the cider

on spent gin botanicals. A

gold medal winner at the

Ontario Cider Awards in

2015, Spirit of the Woods is

6.9% abv.


Eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

66 Pickup by Hoity Toity — A

gold medal winner at the Great

Lakes International Cider and Perry

competition, 66 Pickup veers to the

dry side. Kudos to the rural Bruce

County winery for rebranding this

cider from its original name, Gravel

Run, which left my throat dusty.

This lightly carbonated cider is made

with apples harvested in Grey and

Bruce counties.

Road Trip!

Come to the Cowbell Farm in Blyth, Ontario

“THE NO.1 CRAFT BREWERY IN CANADA TO VISIT.”

—WAYNE NEWTON, FOOD & DRINK JOURNALIST

Toboggan Cider — The Richmond Row,

London brew pub aims to please by offering

a pair of its own ciders, a dry and a sweet.

Either works well for sitting

on the restaurant’s patio and

toasting the drop-off of your

kid up the road at Western,

but the nod goes to the dry

version for its citrus undertone.

Both are 6% abv.

GEORGE MACKE is a craft beer lover exploring the

breweries (and cideries) throughout Southwestern Ontario.

40035 BLYTH ROAD, BLYTH, ON N0M 1H0

1-844-523-4724 WWW.COWBELLBREWING.COM

BLACK SWAN

BREWING COMPANY

STRATFORD • ONTARIO

It's what we drink.

144 DOWNIE ST, STRATFORD

BLACKSWANBREWING.CA 519 • 814 • 7926 @BLACKSWANBREWINGCO


38 |October/November 2018 eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

Wine

Pioneers of “Huron Shores”

Alton Farms Estate Winery in Lambton County

by GARY KILLOPS

Looking for a day trip close to

home? Alton Farms Estate

Winery, located at 5547

Aberarder Line, Plympton-

Wyoming is just about an hour west of

London.

Marc Alton and Anne Kurtz-

Alton, who own and operate the

vineyard, recently celebrated the fifth

anniversary of the winery. The Altons

purchased the 90-acre property in 2005

and soon after planted a test acre of fifteen

different varietals to see what they could grow

best on the property.

They proved wrong the naysayers who said

it would be too cold for grapes to grow and for

vines to survive the cold winters, and went

on to became Lambton County’s first winery.

Together with Dark Horse Estate Winery and

Maelstrom Winery in neighboring Huron

County an Ontario wine region is forming,

unofficially called “Huron Shores”.

“From the beginning we have always been

committed to sustainability both in the

vineyard and the winery,” Anne explains. “We

try not to waste anything. We compost the

pruned vines in the spring, and the grape

skins and seeds after harvest. We also have a

herd of Shetland sheep and 15 lambs who eat

the ground cover between the rows of

vine and fertilize the soil.”

As is the case for most vineyards in

southern Ontario, too much moisture

from rain and humidity can be a concern.

Marc, who is both the winemaker and

vineyard manager, keeps a close watch

on the climate and will only use the most

sustainable products when there is a

need to spray in the vineyard.

A geo-engineer and marine geologist

by profession, Marc is a self-taught

winemaker and grape grower. He is

learning, adapting, and challenging

traditional winemaking practices and

is willing to

experiment with unusual blends that are both

interesting and unique.

In 2013 the winery opened to the public

in a century-old wooden drive shed on the

property. “It’s been a labour of love,” says

Anne. “As our budget allows we look to make

improvements to the winery and in the

vineyard.” This year the tasting room and

retail store were moved to the renovated

basement of the family home, offering a

striking wooden tasting bar with superior

lighting and welcoming ambience. The winery

offers a flight of three wines for $5. The tasting

fee is waived with wine purchase. In addition

to wine, the retail store has glassware, gift

baskets, and wine accessories for sale.

Other recent additions to the winery

Anne Kurtz-Alton with some of the vital vineyard workers


Eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

October/November 2018 | 39

Taste the elements.

1709 Front Road, St. Williams, Norfolk County, ON

Tastings, Tours & Events

burningkilnwinery.ca 519.586.9858

@burningkilnwine


40 |October/November 2018

include an open-air patio and a wood-fired

pizza oven offering Margherita, meat lovers,

Mediterranean chicken and gluten-free pizzas.

The patio menu also includes charcuterie

boards with a selection of seasonal meats,

cheeses, breads, crackers and fruits. Wine is

available by the glass.

The selection of red, white and rosé wines

available for purchase from the winery is

always changing as new wines are released. The

current offerings include a 2016 riesling, 2016

sauvignon blanc and 2015 chardonnay, and

a rosé made from marechel foch grapes. Red

wines include the 2016 baco noir, 2015 cabernet

sauvignon and 2015 cabernet franc. Some

hybrid and vinifera blends are also available.

Alton Farms wine production is small

when compared to other wineries in Ontario.

Last year they produced just under 600 cases

and hope to increase production to about

800 cases this year. With this volume it is

difficult to make a profit. “You really have

to make more wine, and sell more volume,”

Marc said. Anne also pointed out that the

patio and special events help keep the winery

open at this time.

The winery hosted quite a few events this

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

Enjoy wine pizza from the wood-fired oven on the patio

past summer such as “Wine Wednesday

Dinners” featuring different local chefs each

week and food paired with wines from Alton

Estates. They also hold “Wine and Paint” and

“Wine and Yoga” afternoons and the annual

“Fine Art, Fine Wine: Show and Sale.” Many of

these events sold out.

On September 23rd the winery will host the

third annual grape stomp event. The stomping

fee is $5 per entry, with all proceeds in support

of Bluewater Centre for Raptor Rehabilitation.

This is a family event with competitive adult

grape stomping and kid stomps.

On October 13th the winery will host their

second annual Weinfest. This family-friendly

event is a German tradition in celebration of

the new wines in production after harvest.

Alton Farms Estate Winery

5547 Aberarder Line, Plympton-Wyoming

519-899-2479

altonfarmsestatewinery.com

The new tasting room has a warm welcoming ambiance

GARY KILLOPS is a CAPS Certified Sommelier who

loves to talk, taste, and write about wine. He shares his

tasting notes on EssexWineReview.com

Share Our Passion

Available

at

at the

Fine LCBO Restaurants

& The Winery

Colchester Ridge Estate Winery

A Family-Run Craft Winery

Award-Winning VQA Wines

Friendly Tasting Boutique

Picnic Tables

Artisanal Ontario Cheeses

Special Events

@crewinery • 108 Essex County Road 50 • Harrow ON • 519-738-9800


Eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

Recipes

October/November 2018 | 41

From Farm to Table to Page

Forest City Cookbook

By Alieska Robles

Review and Recipe Selections by TRACY TURLIN

If you’re not paying attention, London

might seem a little ... beige (as I once

heard it described by comedian Billy

Connolly). Fortunately, Alieska Robles

has experience finding the heart of a place.

She was raised in Caracas, Venezuela and

spent several years in Buenos Aires, Argentina

before relocating to London. Once here,

she went looking for the vibrant network of

people that make up the local food movement

in London. The result of this labour of love

of nearly two years is Forest City Cookbook

(Alieska Robles; self-published; 2018).

The best cookbooks, to me, are stories of

people and their traditions, our memories of the

past and our connections to our communities.

Forest City Cookbook focuses on local producers,

artisans and chefs in the London region. It’s

organized not by courses but by producers,

and offers recipes from local chefs using the

highlighted ingredients. I love this approach as it

allows you to choose a recipe based on what you

have on hand. It’s easy to forget but traditionally

cooking is ingredient driven. If you have

peaches, you make something with peaches.

There’s a guide to seasonal produce in the back

of the book to help you plan for that.

The author’s well-travelled

parents exposed her to many

different cultures, leaving

her with a love of antiques,

collectibles and cookbooks.

This is reflected in her

wonderful photography, which

is unusually dark (but very

effective) for a cookbook. The

refreshing approach gives you

the feeling of an old-fashioned,

slower way of life while

highlighting modern food.

Forest City Cookbook has

more than a few surprises. I

had no idea

that we had

local producers

of wild

boar but

Perth Pork

Products

offers it

among

its selection

of

heritage

breed

meats.

David

Bistro’s chef

Elvis Drennan’s recipe for

Honey & Rosemary Glazed Wild Boar combines

this delicious meat with a tart cherry

compote. A potato rosti with sauerkraut adds

a beautiful touch of crispy and tangy. Served

with fresh green beans, it’s the kind of dish

that, without being too technically difficult,

makes you look like a genius in the kitchen.

I love fruit crisps because they are easy

to prepare and adjust to whatever fruit you

have on hand. Juliana Guy Wesseling won the

Eatdrink/Forest City Cookbook

original recipe contest using

all local ingredients. Her

Apple Crisp recipe takes

this humble dessert to new

heights. Generous portions

of fruit and crumble topping

are pushed over the top with

a candied bacon caramel

sauce and Gunn’s Hill 5

Brothers Reserve Cheese.

This dish ticks all the yummy

boxes, and then some.

Author/photographer Alieska Robles


42 |October/November 2018

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

Forest City Cookbook is focused on

community. There’s a special mention of Urban

Roots, a non-profit dedicated to utilizing

underused city space to grow fresh food. Its

goal is to reduce food insecurity by facilitating

the placement of urban farm plots throughout

London. Eatdrink’s Food Editor Bryan Lavery

contributed the cookbook’s foreword and a

summary of local culinary history. His recipe

for Roasted Vegetable Terrine is an ideal way

to bring a variety of these vegetables together

while keeping their flavours and textures

intact. Infinitely variable, it can be served as an

appetizer or main course and tastes as amazing

as it looks.

Alieska Robles’s Forest City Cookbook

connects the dots between all the players in

the local farm-to-table community. It’s the

story of our city and some of the people who

work so hard to make it a special place to be:

producers, educators, suppliers, chefs and

artists. Robles looks at London with fresh

eyes and shows us what we may have missed

in our complacency. Sometimes it takes a new

perspective to make you appreciate how good

we have it.

TRACY TURLIN is a freelance writer and dog groomer

in London. Reach her at tracyturlin@gmail.com

Recipes excerpted from Forest City Cookbook

reproduced by arrangement with the Publisher.

All rights reserved.

Apple Crisp

with Candied Bacon, Bacon Caramel Sauce & Aged Cheese

by JULIANNA GUY WESSELING

Prep: 35 Minutes • Cook: 1 Hour 30 Minutes

Serves 8

Apples • Dessert • Easy

Apple crumble and apple pie

with cheddar have always

been top contenders on my

father’s favourite desserts

list. He would even ask for

them instead of birthday cake!

This recipe quickly became

my family’s “go-to” dessert

but needed a little “extra

something” to be a contestwinning

recipe for submitting

to the Eatdrink magazine

recipe contest. Combining

sweet and peppery bacon with

creamy, salty caramel, and

sharp aged cheese is a twist

on a classic that is sure to

impress!

CRUMB TOPPING

¾ cup flour

1 cup quick oats

¼ cup packed brown sugar

2 Tbsp sugar

½ tsp salt

⅔ cup butter, frozen, grated

love

In a large bowl, mix flour, oats,

brown sugar, white sugar and salt.


Eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

Using your hands or a pastry blender, cut the butter into

the flour (the butter should hold its shape when pressed).

Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until the apple

filling is ready.

FILLING (makes 6 cups)

⅓ cup sugar

1 Tbsp cornstarch

¼ tsp ground nutmeg

2 tsp ground cinnamon

8 medium Royal Gala apples, peeled, medium

diced

1 Tbsp apple cider vinegar

love

In a large bowl, combine sugar and cornstarch. Add

nutmeg, cinnamon and apples. Drizzle with vinegar and

toss until the apples are evenly coated.

APPLE CRISP

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Place the apple filling into a 9x9

baking dish. Evenly cover the apples with crumb topping,

making sure to fill all the little nooks and crannies around

the sides. Bake for 45–55 minutes or until golden brown

and bubbling.

CHEF NOTE: Don’t worry, the mound of apples will cook

down!

CANDIED BACON

500 g double smoked bacon, thinly sliced

½ cup brown sugar

freshly cracked black pepper

love

Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Evenly

distribute the bacon and generously cover each strip with

brown sugar. Evenly sprinkle the black pepper and bake

for 15-20 minutes until glazed and crispy. Rotate halfway

through. Remove from oven and allow to cool. Try not to

eat it all!

CANDIED BACON CARAMEL SAUCE

1 cup sugar

2 Tbsp water

¼ cup candied bacon, crumbled

¼ cup butter, cubed

¾ cup 35% cream

love

In a medium pot, bring sugar and water to a boil over

medium heat. Reduce the heat and simmer for 6-8 minutes

without stirring, occasionally swirling the pot until the

caramel reaches a medium amber colour. Add the candied

bacon to the caramel and remove from heat. Add butter

and cream and whisk until well combined. Transfer to a

glass jar and allow to cool until ready to use.

FINISH

200 g Gunn’s Hill Five Brothers Reserve Cheese

In a deep plate, scoop a portion of the apple crisp, drizzle

with caramel sauce, add a few pieces of Five Brother’s

Cheese and top with a strip of candied bacon. Enjoy!

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TICO#50013851


44 |October/November 2018

Honey & Rosemary Glazed Wild Boar

with Cherry Compote, Green Beans & Sauerkraut Roti

by ELVIS DRENNAN

Prep: 20 Minutes • Cook: 40 Minutes

Serves 2

Pork & Wild Boar • Main • Easy

Boar is an underused meat, not commonly seen

in many restaurants. This recipe comes from

an eagerness to experiment with it, challenging

myself to create an unconventional meal

with an unusual and particularly interesting

combination of flavours.

HONEY & ROSEMARY GLAZE

4 Tbsp honey

2 sprigs of rosemary, stems removed, minced

In a small pot, slightly warm the honey. Remove from heat

and add rosemary. Set aside until ready to use.

CHERRY COMPOTE

1 Tbsp olive oil

⅛ Tbsp onion, minced

⅛ Tbsp garlic, minced

2 Tbsp sugar

12 local cherries, pitted, halved

½ cup red wine

2 Tbsp red wine vinegar

salt and pepper to taste

In a small pan, heat the olive oil and sauté onions

and garlic until soft. Add remaining ingredients

and bring to a simmer, allow the liquid to reduce

until thickened. Set aside until ready to use.

SAUERKRAUT ROTI

1 large Yukon gold potato

¼ cup sauerkraut, drained

¼ cup flour

1 large egg

1 Tbsp olive oil

salt to taste

Place the potato in a large pot and cover with

water. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat and

simmer for 5 minutes. Remove the pot from the

heat and leave the potato in the water for 5-10

additional minutes. Strain and rinse the potato

in cold water. Shred with the skin on.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Using a stand

mixer, combine shredded potato, sauerkraut,

flour and egg. Mix well until a moist dough forms

and shape into 2 patties. Adjust consistency with

water or flour if needed.

In a large ovenproof pan, heat the olive

oil over high heat. Sear one side of the potato

patties until golden brown. Season with salt,

turn over and place in the oven for 10 minutes

or until thoroughly cooked.

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

GREEN BEANS

1 cup green beans

Bring a small pot of water to a boil. Blanch the green

beans for 2 minutes until crisp and bright green. Strain

and shock in an ice water bath. Lightly sauté in the same

pan used for the sauerkraut roti.

BOAR TENDERLOIN

2 Tbsp olive oil

2 large wild boar tenderloins

salt and pepper

In a separate ovenproof pan, heat the olive oil over high

heat. Add boar tenderloins and sear until golden brown,

turn over and place in the oven for 8-12 minutes or until

desired doneness.

CHEF NOTES: Ideally, the boar should still have some

pink colour for best results.

Remove from oven and brush thoroughly with

rosemary glaze. Transfer to a cutting board and allow to

rest for 3-5 minutes before slicing.

Serve with sauerkraut roti and green beans. Top with

cherry compote.


Eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

October/November 2018 | 45

Books

Buttermilk Graffiti

A Chef’s Journey to Discover America’s New Melting-Pot Cuisine

Review by DARIN COOK

Fusion is not new in the restaurant

world. Even though Chef Edward

Lee fears it has become a culinary

gimmick, he knows the concept had

profound meaning when it originated in a

restaurant in Florida under the gaze of one of

his heroes, Norman Van Aken. Real fusion is

attuned to the everyday cooking of families

who set roots in a new country and harmonize

immigrant traditions with local cuisine. These

are the types of recipes, restaurants, chefs

and families that Lee searched for from the

nationalities sprawled across American cities

when writing Buttermilk Graffiti: A Chef ’s

Journey to Discover America’s New Melting-

Pot Cuisine (Thomas Allen & Son, 2018).

Whenever Lee has clam pizza in Connecticut

he contemplates “the slow and gradual

interconnection of two cultures, in this

case, Italian and New England.” He further

writes, “When you look at the evolution of

American cuisine, you always find this tension

between tradition and innovation, a tension

that produces the foods we crave most. It is

in the intersection of the home we leave and

the home we adopt that we find a dish that

defines who we really are.”

Lee was raised in Brooklyn with his Korean

family before he moved to Kentucky, where he

refined his own cooking style. He identifies as a

Southern chef, influenced not only by all other

American styles, but also immigrant ones. He

implores us to be “fascinated by other unlikely

couplings that make up the narrative of life in

America” because he knows that people project

the food of their culture

onto the fabric of their

whole identity.

Immigrants revealed

how they missed their

homeland's ways of eating.

A Moroccan immigrant in

Connecticut reminisces

about Marrakesh: “Every

day, you gather with

Author Edward Lee

families and

friends for meals.

You stroll through

the markets and

smell spices …

You drink mint

tea in cafes and

talk all day till

the sun goes

down. Meals

are celebrations,

enjoyed in large groups.” Keeping

food traditions alive, she teaches Lee to

prepare smen, a traditional Moroccan butter.

Lee's cross-country journey is entertaining

and enlightening with French beignets in New

Orleans, Cambodian cuisine in Massachusetts,

Cuban food in Florida (where he learned to

taste food in new ways by learning the nuances

of smoking cigars), German schnitzel in

Wisconsin, Lebanese kibbeh in Mississippi, and

Swedish pancakes in Seattle.

Throughout the book, Lee encourages

experimentation and making food fusion

personal. He suggests taking a recipe

that you like and fusing it with your own

preferences. This is how the recipes at the

end of each chapter were born, as Lee riffs on

unique global delicacies, like Coffee-Glazed

Bacon with Pickled Watermelon and Fried

Peanuts. “I never understood why the Asian

identity and the American identity had to be

compartmentalized," writes Lee, "the way my

Salisbury steak and apple pie were separated in

my Swanson’s dinner. I wanted them all in one

bite.” Buttermilk Graffiti

proves that each bite of

food can lead to cultural

outpourings about families,

recipes, traditions, and

memories.

DARIN COOK is a regular

Eatdrink contributor who lives

and works in Chatham-Kent.


46 |October/November 2018

The Lighter Side

Pescatarian Tales

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

By REBECCA ST. PIERRE

Meat was a constant part of my diet

when I was growing up in rural

Southwestern Ontario. Pot roast,

chicken wings and my mother’s

signature headcheese took turns stealing

prominent places of distinction on my dinner

plate. At Christmas a large platter of honeyglazed

ham was proudly displayed in the

middle of the dining table, forcing all other

lesser dishes of food to fight for the remaining

space, and at Thanksgiving a beautifully

browned turkey encouraged sibling rivalry

over the wishbone. I didn’t question whether I

should or shouldn’t eat meat.

Time passed and I moved

away from home, and after

careful deliberation decided

to stop eating meat — at least

land animals. I continue to eat

aquatic creatures like fish and

seafood. For the past 20 years I

thought I was a vegetarian because I

was raised on the belief that fish flesh

was not meat. Unknowingly I have been lying

to family, friends, and myself for nearly two

decades. The Vegetarian Society defines a

vegetarian as someone who does not eat the

flesh of any animal, including the critters

residing in our lakes, streams and coastal

oceans. For the sake of simplicity, I often

continue to refer to myself as a vegetarian.

“I’m a pescatarian” elicits quizzical looks, head

tilting and raised eyebrows.

Over the years I’ve mastered the skill of

discreetly removing pepperoni from slices

of pizza at social events and avoiding bacon

bits in Caesar salads. I suspect many people

assume I’m a picky eater with a small appetite.

With only two or three meatless dishes at

most group gatherings, my plate often looks

desolate. A hefty helping of large salad greens

usually solves the problem. If a host should

discover I’m a pescatarian, he or she is always

accommodating and generous.

Sometimes my choice of diet defies a way

of life that someone has identified with

since childhood. My husband eats meat and

probably always will. Chicken legs, pork

sausage and beef burgers are a regular part

of his diet. We visited his friends in Alberta

shortly after we started dating, where

Chinook winds, frigid temperatures and

meaty meals are as common as breathing,

walking and sleeping. I wonder to this

day if his friends initially considered an

intervention when they heard his girlfriend

did not eat beef. But the seafood chowder

they prepared for lunch was absolutely divine.

A pescatarian diet can be a conversation

starter, stimulating interesting discussions.

New acquaintances have asked, “Do you miss

eating chicken?” and “If you don’t

eat red meat, what do you eat?”

— queries similar to those I

asked myself in the first couple of

years of saying goodbye to most types

of meat dishes. Soon after answering

their questions, we are sharing stories of what

influences our food choices, which usually

launches a delectable chat on a buffet of topics.

Having an atypical diet can also cause

confusion, as perfectly portrayed in one of

my favourite scenes from the movie My Big

Fat Greek Wedding. When the bride’s aunt,

played by Andrea Martin, discovers the groom

is a vegetarian, she exclaims to a room filled

with guests, “What do you mean he don’t eat

no meat!” All conversation suddenly ceases.

A glass crashes to the floor. After a pregnant

pause, she calmly says, “Oh, that’s okay, that’s

okay, I make lamb, come.”

A baked, meaty portobello mushroom is

beginning to look as appetizing as a seared

fillet of rainbow trout. Perhaps I will be a

vegetarian by the end of the year, but until

then, please pass the fish.

REBECCA ST. PIERRE is a London-based freelance

writer and photographer. She has been writing for

publications, non-profits and small businesses since 2008.

For more of her work, visit www.WordFlightAndLight.com.


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October/November 2018 | 47

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