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Eatdrink Waterloo & Wellington #3 October/November 2018

The LOCAL food & drink magazine serving Waterloo Region and Wellington County

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Issue #W3 | <strong>October</strong>/<strong>November</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

eatdrink<br />

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine<br />

The<br />

Rich Uncle<br />

Tavern<br />

Ignite Restaurant<br />

Group<br />

FEATURING<br />

La Reina<br />

Stepping Up to the Plate in Guelph<br />

Conestoga College<br />

Transforming Together<br />

Ciders & Sours<br />

Seasonal Sensations<br />

Hammer Time!<br />

Hamilton: A Heaven for Food Lovers<br />

Serving <strong>Waterloo</strong> Region & <strong>Wellington</strong> County<br />

www.eatdrink.ca


2 |<strong>October</strong>/<strong>November</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

EXPLORING THE<br />

CHOCOLATE<br />

TRAIL BURNS<br />

CALORIES<br />

GOOD THING.<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

introduces you to our world famous confectioners<br />

and bakers. For just $30 you’ll get to sample our<br />

Stratford Tourism Alliance at 47 Downie Street.<br />

visitstratford.ca


eatdrink<br />

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine<br />

eatdrinkmagazine<br />

@eatdrinkmag<br />

eatdrinkmag<br />

eatdrink.ca<br />

Think Global. Read Local.<br />

Publisher<br />

Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca<br />

Managing Editor Cecilia Buy – cbuy@eatdrink.ca<br />

Food Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca<br />

Editorial Consultant Andrew Coppolino<br />

Copy Editor Kym Wolfe<br />

Social Media Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca<br />

Advertising Sales Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca<br />

Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca<br />

Stacey McDonald – stacey@eatdrink.ca<br />

Terry-Lynn “TL” Sim – TL@eatdrink.ca<br />

Finances<br />

Ann Cormier – finance@eatdrink.ca<br />

Graphics<br />

Chris McDonell, Cecilia Buy<br />

Writers<br />

Darin Cook, Andrew Coppolino,<br />

Gary Killops, Bryan Lavery,<br />

George Macke, Rebecca St. Pierre,<br />

Amanda Stancati, Tracy Turlin<br />

Photographers Steve Grimes, Nick Lavery<br />

Telephone & Fax 519-434-8349<br />

Mailing Address 525 Huron Street, London ON N5Y 4J6<br />

Website<br />

City Media<br />

Printing<br />

Sportswood Printing<br />

OUR COVER<br />

Preparing gastropub<br />

farm-to-table fare,<br />

Culinary Director<br />

for Ignite Restaurant<br />

Group Brian McCourt<br />

(left) works with<br />

Executive Chef<br />

Benjamin Lillico<br />

of The Rich Uncle<br />

Tavern. Read the<br />

story by Bryan Lavery<br />

on page 8.<br />

© <strong>2018</strong> <strong>Eatdrink</strong> Inc. and the writers.<br />

All rights reserved.<br />

Reproduction or duplication of any material published in<br />

<strong>Eatdrink</strong> or on <strong>Eatdrink</strong>.ca is strictly prohibited without<br />

the written permis sion of the Publisher. <strong>Eatdrink</strong> has a regular<br />

printed circulation of 20,000 issues published six times annually.<br />

The views or opinions expressed in the information, content and/<br />

or advertisements published in <strong>Eatdrink</strong> or online are solely<br />

those of the author(s) and do not necessarily represent those of<br />

the Publisher. The Publisher welcomes submissions but accepts no<br />

responsibility for unsolicited material.<br />

Serving up<br />

Great<br />

partnerships<br />

commercial | digital | wide format | design<br />

Let us help with your next project...<br />

519.866.5558 | ben@sportswood.on.ca<br />

www.sportswood.on.ca


Contents<br />

Issue #W3 | <strong>October</strong>/<strong>November</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

Publisher’s Notes<br />

Fall Festivities<br />

Oktoberfest and More<br />

By CHRIS McDONELL<br />

6<br />

Restaurants<br />

Audaciously Modern<br />

Ignite Restaurant Group<br />

& The Rich Uncle Tavern<br />

By BRYAN LAVERY<br />

8<br />

Stepping Up to the Plate<br />

La Reina Fills a Void in Guelph<br />

By BANDREW COPPOLINO<br />

14<br />

Road Trips<br />

Hammer Time!<br />

Hamilton: A Heaven for Food Lovers<br />

By AMANDA STANCATI<br />

18<br />

Culinary Education<br />

Transforming Together<br />

College’s School of Hospitality and<br />

Culinary Arts<br />

By ANDREW COPPOLINO<br />

23<br />

The BUZZ<br />

Culinary Community Notes<br />

26<br />

8<br />

18<br />

41<br />

14<br />

38<br />

Beer<br />

Seasonal Sensations<br />

Ciders and Sours<br />

By GEORGE MACKE<br />

34<br />

Wine<br />

Pioneers of “Huron Shores”<br />

Alton Farms Estate Winery<br />

By GARY KILLOPS<br />

38<br />

Recipes<br />

From Farm to Table to Page<br />

Forest City Cookbook<br />

Review & Recipe Selections by TRACY TURLIN<br />

41<br />

Books<br />

The Great Immigrant Road Trip<br />

Buttermilk Graffiti<br />

Review by DARIN COOK<br />

45<br />

The Lighter Side<br />

Pescatarian Tales<br />

By REBECCA ST. PIERRE<br />

46<br />

62<br />

23<br />

45<br />

34


<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Welcome to a carefully designed collision<br />

of historic character and contemporary style.<br />

<strong>October</strong>/<strong>November</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 5<br />

Tucked beneath our iconic hotel,<br />

TWH Social is Kitchener's<br />

destination for great food,<br />

community and conversation.<br />

20 Queen Street South, Kitchener<br />

519 745 4321<br />

Toll Free 1 800 265 8749<br />

walper.com


6 |<strong>October</strong>/<strong>November</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

Publisher’s Notes<br />

Fall Festivities<br />

Oktoberfest and More<br />

By CHRIS McDONELL<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

<strong>October</strong> means Oktoberfest for<br />

thousands of fans, and <strong>Eatdrink</strong><br />

is excited to be an official Festival<br />

sponsor during the 50th anniversary<br />

celebrations in our first year<br />

in <strong>Waterloo</strong> Region & <strong>Wellington</strong><br />

County. Celebrating culture<br />

through food and drink is what<br />

our magazine is all about, and<br />

we're proud to be involved with<br />

such an iconic event. Of course<br />

German food and ice cold beer are<br />

integral to Oktoberfest, but there is more.<br />

The culmination of a year's work and planning,<br />

the dozen Festhallen are hosting over<br />

40 events, with something for everyone. The<br />

festivities extend further into the community,<br />

beyond the parade, and into some of the<br />

region's best restaurants.<br />

OktoberLICIOUS brings the<br />

Bavarian spirit of gemuetlichkeit<br />

to local restaurants, with each<br />

participant offering a prix fixe<br />

menu with special beer pairings.<br />

Restaurants include Blackshop<br />

Restaurant, Concordia Club, The<br />

Easy Pour Wine Bar, Harmony<br />

Lunch, Lou Dawg’s Southern BBQ, The<br />

Rich Uncle Tavern (see our story on page 8),<br />

Rustico Kitchen & Bar, Solé Restaurant and<br />

Experience Authentic Bavarian Foods<br />

at these participating restaurants!<br />

Visit tasteofoktoberfest.oktoberfest.ca for a complete list of restaurants & menu information<br />

Participating Restaurants Include:<br />

• ABE ERB • BLACKSHOP • DEL ENOTECA • HARMONY LUNCH<br />

• JANET LYNN’S BISTRO • LOU DAWG’S • RUSTICO<br />

• PROOF KITCHEN & LOUNGE • SOLÈ • THE RICH UNCLE<br />

• TWH SOCIAL • WHITE RABBIT


<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Wine Bar, TWH Social Bar & Bistro (see their<br />

ad on page 5), and Weber Street Public House.<br />

The interesting twists on Oktoberfest fare<br />

embrace the theme while expanding it. How<br />

deliciously Canadian. Prost!<br />

German culture is not the only influence<br />

we celebrate in this issue. Andrew Coppolino<br />

takes us to the heart of downtown Guelph to<br />

a pleasingly authentic Mexican restaurant. La<br />

Reina opened a few months ago and is earning<br />

a regal reputation in The Royal City for an<br />

elevated experience of Mexican cuisine. ¡Salud!<br />

Amanda Stancati takes us on a culinary tour<br />

of her town, making a persuasive argument<br />

that Hamilton is “a heaven for food lovers.”<br />

From farmers’ market to a wide variety<br />

of restaurants, cafés and craft breweries,<br />

there are so many good reasons to think of<br />

Steeltown for your next road trip. Cheers!<br />

Bryan Lavery spent time with the creative<br />

team of Ignite Restaurant Group, who recently<br />

launched Graffiti Market in Kitchener’s<br />

Belmont Village. This new concept is located<br />

in Catalyst137, a massive manufacturing hub<br />

and technology accelerator. Readers may<br />

recognize the Ignite brand for the changeover<br />

<strong>October</strong>/<strong>November</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 7<br />

of The Berlin into The Rich Uncle Tavern in<br />

downtown Kitchener. Bryan takes an in-depth<br />

look at that transformation, and it is inspired.<br />

Where will our next generation of culinary<br />

professionals come from? Conestoga College<br />

has made major investments in its School of<br />

Hospitality and Culinary Arts to help answer<br />

that question. <strong>Eatdrink</strong> is pleased to dedicate a<br />

story to creative local culinary education.<br />

Our beverage writers also present food for<br />

thought. Gary Killops visited Ontario’s latest<br />

emerging wine region for <strong>Eatdrink</strong> and profiles<br />

Alton Farms Estate Winery. “Huron Shores”<br />

spans the southern range of Ontario’s Lake<br />

Huron region. Long famed for its beautiful<br />

beaches and spectacular sunsets, this is now<br />

home to a number of wineries making good<br />

wine under uniquely challenging circumstances.<br />

Beer writer George Macke takes a<br />

seasonal look at the local explosion in apple<br />

cideries and craft beer sours. He has a dozen<br />

recommendations, so please pace yourself!<br />

CHRIS McDONELL founded <strong>Eatdrink</strong> in 2007.<br />

WHERE TASTE REIGNS SUPREME<br />

FINE INDIAN CUISINE<br />

Stratford<br />

10 George St. W.<br />

519-271-3271<br />

Kitchener<br />

725 Belmont Ave. W.<br />

519-208-2811<br />

rajaindiancuisine.ca


8 |<strong>October</strong>/<strong>November</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Restaurants<br />

Audaciously Modern<br />

The Rich Uncle Tavern, Graffiti Market and More:<br />

Drinking & Dining Concepts from Ignite Restaurant Group<br />

By BRYAN LAVERY<br />

The Ignite Restaurant Group (owners of The<br />

Rich Uncle Tavern, and the newly opened<br />

Graffiti Market, Red Circle Coffee and Red<br />

Circle Brewing) recently purchased the former<br />

Black Forest Inn in the small farming town of Conestogo.<br />

The Sawmill Road property is one of the oldest venue<br />

sites in the region. The group plans to launch Crowsfoot<br />

Ciderhouse early next year. The Ciderhouse will offer its<br />

own brand of cider, brewed in-house using apples from<br />

Martin’s Family Fruit Farm on Lobsinger Line. The menu<br />

will be modelled on the traditional European smokehouse<br />

with a contemporary twist, combining German food<br />

culture and southern smoke barbecue. The complex is<br />

expected to feature a country market as well as serving as<br />

the new headquarters for Ignite.<br />

Catalyst137<br />

Catalyst137 is a 475,000 square foot manufacturing hub<br />

and technology accelerator in Kitchener’s Belmont Village<br />

neighbourhood. Purpose-built for hardware engineering<br />

services and venture capital support in order to create the<br />

next generation of the Internet of Things (IoT) companies,<br />

Catalyst137 is the world's largest IoT manufacturing hub<br />

and is located in a repurposed tire warehouse. The Ignite<br />

Restaurant Group, which recently transformed the former<br />

Berlin Restaurant into The Rich Uncle Tavern in downtown<br />

Kitchener, realized that Catalyst137 was the ideal location<br />

for Graffiti Market, a new dining concept for the growing<br />

number of workers at Catalyst137. The Graffiti Market<br />

combines food, culture, and technology. It was conceived<br />

as a platform to foster innovation and nurture creativity<br />

through a unique synergy of emerging technology.<br />

In addition to the restaurant, Graffiti Market also sells<br />

groceries and runs a microbrewery under the banner of<br />

Red Circle Brewing Co. Led by co-founder and brewmaster<br />

Brett Croft, Red Circle is a brand steeped in Belmont<br />

Village’s lore and pays homage to the craftsmanship of<br />

Kitchener’s makers and artisans. The Market also includes<br />

a coffee roaster (the aptly named Red Circle Coffee Co.),<br />

and a bakery.<br />

Interactive Tables<br />

As a trail-blazing restaurant, retail market, microbrewery,<br />

Red Circle Coffee Company<br />

The dining area at Graffiti Market


<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>October</strong>/<strong>November</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 9<br />

coffee roaster and bakery, Graffiti<br />

Market provides customers with<br />

a cutting-edge dining experience.<br />

Ignite Restaurant Group partnered<br />

with Ukraine-based Kodisoft to<br />

provide interactive restaurant<br />

technology dining tables. Ordering<br />

is done with the touch of the<br />

tabletop icons. Tables feature<br />

technology that is 10 times faster<br />

than any tablet currently on the<br />

market. This is automated ordering<br />

from table to the cloud to the<br />

kitchen directly. The technology lets<br />

you view menus, surf social media,<br />

watch your meal or beverages being<br />

prepared, play various interactive<br />

Interactive tables by Kodisoft<br />

Ribbon-cutting at Graffiti Market<br />

games and pay your bill. With a touch, the interactive<br />

table can display photos and descriptions of the menu<br />

items, allowing you to check ingredients and even search<br />

recipes. You can order groceries or a six-pack of beer<br />

from the table while eating, then pay for and pick them<br />

up on the way out the door. Up to 100 seats are spread<br />

throughout the establishment, eliminating a defined<br />

restaurant space. The patio adds an additional 80 seats.<br />

Brian McCourt is Culinary Director of The<br />

Neighbourhood Restaurant Group. His menus at Graffiti<br />

Market feature small plates, larger plates, appetizers<br />

and mains, all meant to be sampled tablewide. Detroitstyle<br />

pizza, pasta house-made with local flour and eggs,<br />

and rotisserie chicken are signatures. At dinner there is<br />

“Spittin’ Chicken,” the option of Rosemary and Lemon<br />

or Diavolo-Style Rotisserie Chicken with seasonal<br />

vegetables, roasted local potatoes, dark chicken jus and<br />

chimichurri; “Steak is High” Dry Aged Striploin Steak,<br />

gouda frites, truffle aioli and onion jam; and Notorious<br />

P.I.G., shorthand for Porchetta, Roasted Garlic & Arugula<br />

Pesto, with tomato jam, pickled onions, smoked pepper<br />

aioli, and crackling on pain rustique.<br />

This is a 360-degree infotainment experience. Kodisoft<br />

is working closely with Ignite to add more interactive<br />

features to the restaurant over the coming months.<br />

There are plans to launch the technology in other<br />

markets later this year.<br />

Graffiti Market/Red Circle Brewing Co.<br />

137 Glasgow Street, Kitchener<br />

519-514-1820 | graffitimarket.ca<br />

daily 11 am–1 am<br />

Red Circle Coffee Co.<br />

137 Glasgow Street, Kitchener<br />

519-514-1820 | redcirclecoffee.ca<br />

monday–friday 7:30 am–6 pm; saturday 8 am–6 pm;<br />

sunday 9 am–6 pm<br />

The Rich Uncle Tavern<br />

Earlier this year The Ignite Restaurant Group<br />

transformed The Berlin into The Rich Uncle Tavern.


10 |<strong>October</strong>/<strong>November</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

When the building was remodelled<br />

as The Berlin, Ryan Lloyd-Craig<br />

spent eight months refurbishing and<br />

reclaiming the Renaissance Revival<br />

style of the building to create an 85-seat<br />

street-level dining room with a long bar.<br />

The elevated open-kitchen that remains<br />

one of the focal points of the space.<br />

The new concept features a unique<br />

and inventive farm-to-table inspired<br />

menu, built on hearty live-fire fare and<br />

a shareable plate concept which pays<br />

tribute to the taverns and brasseries<br />

of bygone times. Defined by an<br />

unpretentious and wholesome approach<br />

to food and beverages, menus feature<br />

Canadian ingredients. The interior is<br />

stripped down to emphasize the frame<br />

and raw personality of the building.<br />

The room is sizeable and has a décor<br />

of exposed bricks and concrete with<br />

reclaimed slats and soaring 20-foot<br />

ceilings that give it a modern rural feel<br />

that makes for an inviting and appealing<br />

ambience. A staircase leads to the second<br />

floor, where there is a study and room<br />

for private dining and receptions.<br />

Chef Benjamin Lillico, formerly<br />

of The Berlin and Langdon Hall,<br />

has an ethical and sustainable<br />

culinary philosophy, caring about the<br />

provenance of food and the way it is<br />

grown or raised. Lillico was named to<br />

The Ontario Hostelry Institute’s Top<br />

30 Under 30 in 2015 and captained<br />

Junior Culinary Team Canada at the<br />

2016 Culinary Olympics in Erfurt,<br />

Germany. His menus are based on the<br />

availability of the best fresh and local<br />

ingredients from small, innovative<br />

farms and top-quality food producers<br />

in the surrounding area, like Soiled<br />

Reputation, Farm Craft Organics,<br />

Monforte Dairy, McIntosh Farms,<br />

Murray’s Farms, Organic Ocean,<br />

Ontario Harvest, Kolapore Springs<br />

and Eby Manor Dairy. A main feature<br />

of the kitchen is a stainless steel<br />

wood-fired grill with a surface made<br />

of V-shaped slates; the downward<br />

slant guides run-off fat and juices into<br />

The Rich Uncle Tavern is housed in a Renaissance<br />

Revival style building and has an 85-seat streetlevel<br />

dining room with a long bar..


<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Culinary Director, Ignite Restaurant Group, Brian<br />

McCourt (left) with Executive Chef Benjamin Lillico, of<br />

The Rich Uncle Tavern. The elevated open-kitchen is one<br />

of the focal points of the gastropub, offering dynamic<br />

farm-to-table fare.<br />

a basting pan rather than onto the coals. A<br />

crank wheel regulates the height of the grill<br />

surface over the coals, while a fire cage holds<br />

most of the heat behind the surface.<br />

The gastropub features shareable offerings<br />

such as local and in-house made charcuterie<br />

and a delectable seafood and shellfish board.<br />

There is also a selection of cheese. Handhelds<br />

include Lamb Burger, Croque Madame and<br />

Lobster Roll. One of the most delicious things<br />

on the menu is the roughly chopped Beef<br />

Tartare with Fermented Pepper Emulsion, Egg<br />

Yolk Jam and Fired Toast. There are Pork Rind<br />

Crisps, Truffle Frites, Oysters, Smoked Duck<br />

Breast and Pork Schnitzel with Hazelnut,<br />

Braised Red Cabbage, Parsley Root and Lemon<br />

and Thyme Sauce. There is Wild Sturgeon<br />

Caviar from Carters Point in New Brunswick.<br />

The sturgeon are from the Saint John River<br />

and are harvested in a limited quantity each<br />

summer season. This is the last wild caviar in<br />

the world, recommended by Ocean Wise and<br />

strictly monitored to ensure sustainability.<br />

Whether you’re savouring a flavourfocused<br />

bite at the bar, a craft beer or crafted<br />

cocktail in the upstairs study, or dining<br />

communally in one of the comfortable main<br />

floor booths, you will experience a convivial<br />

ambience, curated beverages and dynamic<br />

mouth-watering fare.<br />

The Rich Uncle Tavern<br />

45 King Street West, Kitchener<br />

519-208-8555 | richuncletavern.ca<br />

tuesday & wednesday 11 am – 1 pm<br />

thurs to saturday 11 am – 12 midnight<br />

sunday 10 am – 9 pm<br />

monday closed<br />

<strong>Eatdrink</strong> Food Editor BRYAN LAVERY brings years of<br />

experience in the restaurant and hospitality industry as<br />

a chef, restaurateur, and partner in the Lavery Culinary<br />

Group. Always on the lookout for the stories that <strong>Eatdrink</strong><br />

should be telling, he helps shape the magazine both under<br />

his byline and behind the scenes.


12 |<strong>October</strong>/<strong>November</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Stratford is more than great theatre<br />

visitstratford.ca<br />

um<br />

Lorem ipsum<br />

A restaurant inspired by<br />

local ingredients.<br />

Run by workers.<br />

Owned by workers.<br />

Shared by the Community.<br />

7 Days a Week<br />

Reservations Recommended<br />

64 <strong>Wellington</strong> St, Stratford<br />

redrabbitresto.com<br />

519.305.6464<br />

@redrabbitresto<br />

global tapas with local ingredients<br />

fresh cocktails<br />

Perfect for dinner before or snacks after the show<br />

Wednesday–Sunday from 5pm<br />

85 Downie St, Stratford<br />

(next to Avon Theatre)<br />

519.305.8585<br />

85Downie.com


<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

“A fun place to shop<br />

for housewares and gifts!”<br />

<strong>October</strong>/<strong>November</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 13<br />

celebrating 122 years in stratford<br />

Emma Bridgewater<br />

“Vegetable Garden” Pottery<br />

Tomatoes, artichokes and peppers illustrated<br />

in delicious detail, looking good enough<br />

to eat straight from the plate.<br />

WATSON’S<br />

CHELSEA BAZAAR<br />

84 Ontario St. Stratford<br />

watsonsofstratford.com<br />

519-273-1790


14 |<strong>October</strong>/<strong>November</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Restaurants<br />

Stepping Up to the Plate<br />

La Reina Fills a Void, in Guelph<br />

By ANDREW COPPOLINO<br />

With 88 seats in the dining<br />

room and a dozen or so stools<br />

at a long bar, the owners of<br />

a new Mexican restaurant in<br />

<strong>Wellington</strong> County are hoping to turn those<br />

tables a couple of times a night as La Reina<br />

makes its mark. Opened at the end of June<br />

(in the location that was formerly Van Gogh’s<br />

Ear in the very heart of downtown Guelph),<br />

La Reina wants to add yet another layer to the<br />

burgeoning food and beverage scene in the city.<br />

While Guelph has<br />

food and dining<br />

variety, from fastcasual<br />

to finer<br />

dining as well<br />

as a good range<br />

of national and<br />

regional cuisines,<br />

there was a paucity<br />

of Mexican food<br />

that rises above fast-food<br />

quality. That, at least, is according to<br />

co-owner Bryan Steele and his Guelphbased<br />

partners Conrad Aikens, Justin<br />

Corstorphine and Derek Boudreau, all of<br />

whom have experience in food, hospitality<br />

and restaurant operations. Steele, formerly<br />

a chef, says keying in on authentic Mexican<br />

food was their first priority.<br />

“There are a lot of different cuisines in<br />

the city, but Mexican was one that we did<br />

not really have,” according to Steele. “Van<br />

Gogh’s, where La Reina is now, was a sort of<br />

Chilean-South American scene.”<br />

So, there’s a new queen — and there was<br />

even some palace intrigue and a rush to see<br />

who would ascend the throne. Word had<br />

been travelling through the local industry<br />

that several restaurateurs had the idea for a<br />

Mexican food-and-beverage operation. “We<br />

were first to the table, got the location and<br />

started developing the La Reina concept,”<br />

he says.<br />

Steele stresses that they are striving<br />

for authentic Mexican food. That is the<br />

purview of head chef Jose Matamoros,<br />

formerly a sous chef at El Catrin in Toronto’s<br />

Distillery Historic District, who brought<br />

with him chefs of Mexican background<br />

and representing different regions of the<br />

La Reina — "The Queen" — offers a Mexican dining and<br />

drinking experience in downtown Guelph.


<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

country. The result is a collaborative regional<br />

influence on the menu. “We really wanted to<br />

fill that niche for Mexican at this level that<br />

you find in Toronto and Hamilton,” Steele<br />

says. The dishes and all their ingredients, as<br />

much as possible, are made in-house, and the<br />

food tries to be as authentically Mexican as<br />

possible. That comes from the people in the<br />

kitchen and what they bring to the cooking,<br />

he adds.<br />

The menu covers lunch, dinner and<br />

late night, with several dishes that serve<br />

well if you want to put together a small<br />

tasting. The classic pastor taco can sit<br />

alongside the heady, earthy taco marquesa<br />

with oyster mushrooms, charred Brussels<br />

sprouts and epazote (a Mexican and Central<br />

American herb that’s akin to oregano). The<br />

Head Chef Jose Matamoros and his staff present authentic<br />

Mexican cuisine with strong regional influences<br />

venison is part of a salad with avocado and a<br />

cotija vinaigrette. La Reina’s version of carne<br />

asada uses flatiron steak, hen-of-the-woods<br />

mushrooms and a marrow salsa. There are a<br />

number of inventive vegetarian dishes too: red<br />

rice with charred cauliflower, mushrooms and<br />

poblano salsa, and a vegetarian taco, to name a<br />

few. There are, of course, churros — delectably<br />

light, crisp and yet slightly creamy.<br />

Dirty Domingo is geared to students after 8<br />

p.m. on Sundays, with $5 specials for tacos, barrail<br />

tequila, margaritas, appetizers, guacamole,<br />

churros, and more. “The DJ starts at eight<br />

on Sundays, and we’re hoping to encourage<br />

students to visit.”<br />

As for beverages, it’s safe to say that cocktails<br />

are currently a major component of upscalecasual<br />

bars and restaurants, and at such a place<br />

as La Reina, tequila rules. But not in a basic<br />

Jose Cuervo way. “There are many recognizable<br />

brands, but there is also a large selection of<br />

tequilas that are hard to find elsewhere,” Steele<br />

says. “That’s the direction we want people to try.<br />

It’s our goal to help people find something new<br />

to savour and linger over — and which is of a<br />

much higher quality.”<br />

Brunch might include, above left, Huevos con Chorizo with<br />

charred asparagus and fingerling potatoes. For the sweet<br />

tooth, left, Capirotada with bread pudding, poached pears<br />

and vanilla yogurt.


16 |<strong>October</strong>/<strong>November</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

The La Reina bar (above) is a popular late-night venue, with<br />

over 60 varieties of tequila on the well-stocked shelves (below)<br />

and a selection of classic and original crafted cocktails (left).<br />

The intersection of Wyndham and Macdonell<br />

on which La Reina sits is graced with eclectic<br />

and intricate architecture that defines the<br />

immediate sightlines and contributes to the<br />

history and sense of place that is Guelph. From<br />

several vantage points at La Reina, but especially<br />

from the 14-seat patio, you have a view of the<br />

1822 Petrie building, a former pharmacy with<br />

elaborate décor and one of the few remaining<br />

structures in Canada which has a stamped<br />

galvanized iron façade. The owners have drawn<br />

on that history as much as they can for their<br />

restaurant. An elaborate tin ceiling in the<br />

dining room, likely a product of late-Victorian<br />

or Edwardian interior design, was re-claimed<br />

from the Aker’s Furniture building, of Great<br />

War vintage, about three doors down in the<br />

same block. Builders and crafters used in the<br />

restaurant build-out came from the Guelph area<br />

and tables were made by a company in Elmira.


<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

While the focus for the restaurant is on the<br />

food and dining, with the bar originally slated<br />

to be in support, Steele says the evolution<br />

of the space has seen a push to a late-night<br />

bar scene Friday to Sunday. “We’re open<br />

until 2 a.m.,” he says. “That started several<br />

weeks ago, and we want the 25-plus crowd<br />

to visit and be able to have a conversation<br />

and not have to yell an order at a bartender.”<br />

A private room with funky carved sliding<br />

doors can accommodate 24 people who must<br />

be willing to sit with the classic — and quite<br />

large — versions of the calaveras, fanciful<br />

and re-imagined human skulls that are<br />

illuminated. The room was already booked for<br />

Christmas parties in the late summer, Steele<br />

says. There is little doubt that La Reina might<br />

be a (likely crowded) venue to visit for “Los<br />

Dias de Los Muertos” between <strong>October</strong> 31 and<br />

<strong>November</strong> 2.<br />

Restaurants evolve, develop and, in fact,<br />

mature as they work through refining their<br />

menus, staffing and systems. In this, its<br />

earliest iteration, La Reina has an energetic<br />

yet quite comfortable feel, so it will be<br />

interesting to see how it grows as an upscale<br />

<strong>October</strong>/<strong>November</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 17<br />

and unique-to-Guelph Mexican restaurant.<br />

The late-night component is growing, and<br />

Steele says that brunch will be available in the<br />

fall, along with a take-away service that is part<br />

of the plan to offer unique goods and services<br />

to the community. “We want to add to the<br />

culinary scene here,” Steele says, noting that<br />

they’ve had initial success. “People understand<br />

what we’re trying to do and the direction we<br />

are going.”<br />

La Reina<br />

10 Wyndham Street North, Guelph<br />

519-265-8226<br />

lareina519.com<br />

tuesday and wednesday: 11 a.m.–11 p.m.<br />

thursday: 11 a.m.–12 a.m.<br />

saturday and sunday: 11 a.m.–2 a.m.<br />

monday: closed<br />

ANDREW COPPOLINO is a Kitchener-based writer<br />

and broadcaster. He is publisher of <strong>Waterloo</strong> Region<br />

Eats (waterlooregioneats.com). Andrew also serves as a<br />

regional <strong>Eatdrink</strong> Editorial Consultant.<br />

Your Local, Fresh and Wholesome Gourmet Market.<br />

We are passionate about Food and Community!


18 |<strong>October</strong>/<strong>November</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

Sponsored By<br />

Road Trips<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Hammer Time!<br />

Discover Hamilton — A Food Lover's Heaven<br />

By AMANDA STANCATI<br />

A<br />

visit to the city that produces<br />

Dempster’s bread, Maple Leaf<br />

meats, Karma Candy candy canes<br />

and other national food brands is<br />

sure to be a tasty one. A strong coffee culture,<br />

beloved local establishments, a growing<br />

number of craft breweries, and a steady<br />

stream of new and exciting restaurants makes<br />

Hamilton a worthy destination for roadtrippers.<br />

Looking for the best food and drink<br />

in town? Here are some must-tries.<br />

Hamilton Farmers’ Market<br />

The indoor Hamilton Farmers’ Market,<br />

located in the heart of downtown beside<br />

Jackson Square, has been operating since<br />

1837. Visit on a Tuesday, Thursday, Friday, or<br />

Saturday to check out the 60 vendors who<br />

offer everything from produce and prepared<br />

foods to flowers and crafts. Market highlights<br />

include Relay Coffee Roasters for small<br />

batch, organic and fair trade coffee (and a<br />

selection of Donut Monster donuts), Cake<br />

and Loaf for Instagram-worthy desserts,<br />

Pokeh, Canada’s first poke bar serving up the<br />

fresh Hawaiian dish, and Sensational Samosa<br />

for samosas, rotis, curries, and salads.<br />

City Dishes<br />

“Distinctly Hamilton” dishes come in all<br />

shapes and sizes. Here are some favourites.<br />

Hamilton Farmers’ Market<br />

While Hamilton is where Tim Hortons<br />

was founded, donut-lovers in the city know<br />

Grandad’s is the place to go. Donuts are<br />

baked daily and are larger than what you’ll<br />

typically find in a coffee shop. And they come<br />

in flavours you won’t find anywhere else (like<br />

walnut crunch and strawberry fritter!).<br />

Simple yet delicious, Roma Bakery’s “plain”<br />

pizza isn’t topped with cheese (crazy, right?),<br />

but the saucy bread has become the go-to for<br />

birthday parties and picnics in Hamilton. Grab<br />

a slab for the road at the flagship bakery (it’s<br />

also sold at other locations around the city) and<br />

you’ll understand what all the hype is about.


<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>October</strong>/<strong>November</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 19<br />

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eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Putting the finishing touch on S‘mores Cupcakes,<br />

at Cake & Loaf<br />

For a beachfront snack, Hamiltonians have<br />

been frequenting Hutch’s since 1946. The<br />

diner is beloved for its fish and chips, cones,<br />

milkshakes, and old-school decor.<br />

Craft Beer<br />

Hamilton’s growing craft beer scene includes<br />

a number of beautiful spaces around the city<br />

to visit for a cold one. In addition to its drink<br />

offerings, Merit Brewing offers a menu of<br />

shareables and unique sausage options to<br />

enjoy at the communal tables.<br />

Other notable craft breweries include<br />

Fairweather Brewing Company,<br />

Grain&Grit, Shawn & Ed Brewing Co.,<br />

Rust City Brewery, and Collective Arts<br />

Brewing. Collective Arts’ award-winning<br />

beers are celebrated for their limited-edition<br />

artwork on the cans and labels — and make<br />

for a tasty souvenir to bring home!<br />

Aberdeen Tavern<br />

Capri Ristorante, opened in 1963, is known<br />

for traditional pizzas and pastas — both<br />

Hamilton mainstays.<br />

For something more trendy, Aberdeen<br />

Tavern belongs to the same family of the<br />

more recently opened The French and The<br />

Shawn & Ed Brewing Co., on Hatt Street<br />

Diplomat, all excellent choices for upscale<br />

food and drink in stylish environments.<br />

Ancaster Mill and Edgewater Manor<br />

are elegant options for special occasions.<br />

Merit Brewing<br />

Notable Restaurants<br />

Hamilton restaurants serve cuisine from<br />

around the globe. Black Forest Inn has<br />

been a landmark since 1967, serving hearty<br />

Bavarian cuisine including a famous schnitzel<br />

selection. For large Italian-style portions,<br />

Ancaster Mill


<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

A Group of Certified B Corp Restaurants<br />

Mezcal TNT<br />

Built from limestone, Ancaster Mill is set<br />

beside a waterfall offering pretty views, while<br />

Edgewater Manor serves steak and seafood<br />

beside Lake Ontario.<br />

James Street<br />

James Street is one of the Hamilton’s hippest<br />

neighbourhoods, and has a high concentration<br />

of dining options. To the north is Wild<br />

Orchid for flavourful seafood, and Born<br />

and Raised for wood-oven pizza and a raw<br />

bar. To the south you’ll find Mezcal TNT<br />

for tacos and tequila and Radius for fine<br />

dining and a two-level patio — and loads of<br />

choices in between. This is a very walkable<br />

neighbourhood so get out and enjoy!<br />

Leave room for dessert from Chocolat on<br />

James or Rush Sugar Bar. Coffee options<br />

include Mulberry Coffeehouse and Saint<br />

James Espresso Bar and Eatery.<br />

our Roots, foods, wines + brews<br />

37 Quebec Street, Downtown Guelph<br />

519-821-9271 | Miijidaa.ca<br />

1388 Gordon Street, South Guelph<br />

519-265-9007 | Borealisgrille.ca<br />

176 Woolwich Ave, Downtown Guelph<br />

519-836-2875 | thewoolypub.ca<br />

NàRoma<br />

Pizzeria<br />

294 Woolwich St., Downtown Guelph<br />

parkgrocery.ca


22 |<strong>October</strong>/<strong>November</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Locke Street<br />

From NàRoma Pizzeria’s fusion of Naples and<br />

Roman-style pizzas to Bread Bar’s from-scratch<br />

breads, pizzas, soups and salads, Locke Street packs<br />

big flavour along a relatively short strip. For casual<br />

fine dining, Brux House and Mattson & Co both<br />

offer quality food and cocktails. For something<br />

sweet to round out your trip, Amo Gelato Caffe<br />

makes gelato in-house!<br />

Dundas<br />

The quaint town of Dundas is home to the awardwinning<br />

fine dining restaurant, Quatrefoil, the<br />

pretty Detour Cafe for a coffee and bite to eat, and<br />

Beanermunky Chocolates for sweet confections.<br />

Winona<br />

Located in Hamilton towards Niagara Falls is a little<br />

community called Winona, home to Memphis Fire<br />

BBQ, a must-visit for meat-lovers. This Southernstyle<br />

BBQ joint makes mouth-watering burgers,<br />

beef brisket, pulled pork, buttermilk chicken, and<br />

baby back ribs.<br />

Also in the neighbourhood is Puddicombe Estate<br />

Farms & Winery. Pick up hand-baked pies or awardwinning<br />

wines at this 200-year-old family fruit farm.<br />

Tasty Souvenirs<br />

On your way out of the city, pick up some culinary<br />

souvenirs to enjoy at home.<br />

Nardini Specialties and Denninger’s Foods<br />

of the World have some of the best European-style<br />

sausages and meats. Lasagna-lovers can pick up<br />

some Mama Yolanda’s gourmet lasagna at Nardini.<br />

For the sweet tooth, Bennett’s Apples makes<br />

scrumptious apple pie, turnovers, and other baked<br />

goods at its market. Sam’s Queenston Bakery is<br />

known for the cannoli, made in a nut-free facility,<br />

along with other Italian treats like mini tiramisu<br />

and rum cakes.<br />

I am sure your visit to Hamilton will be a delicious<br />

one!<br />

Other Notable Spots<br />

The Other Bird is a Hamilton-based hospitality group<br />

offering unique culinary experiences, combining<br />

Executive Chef Matt Kershaw's big-flavour cooking with<br />

CEO Erin Dunham's passion for extraordinary service.<br />

Their motto: “And we just want to satisfy you.” Check out<br />

chef-driven and carnivore-focused Rapscallion Rogue<br />

Eatery, Two Black Sheep, or playful taco bar The Mule in<br />

Hamilton, Burro in Burlington (serving everything from<br />

ahi tuna ceviche to fish tacos), the Woolf & Wilde at<br />

the boutique Arlington Hotel in Paris ON and the swanky<br />

cocktail-focused Hunter & Co. in London ON. — Eds.<br />

From the top down: NàRoma Pizza, Detour Cafe in<br />

Dundas, Memphis Fire BBQ in Winona, and Sam’s<br />

Queenstown Bakery.<br />

AMANDA STANCATI is a Hamilton-based<br />

writer who loves to eat her way through different<br />

cities around the world. Follow her on<br />

Twitter @amandastancati.


<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>October</strong>/<strong>November</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 23<br />

Culinary Education<br />

Transforming Together<br />

Conestoga College’s School of Hospitality and Culinary Arts<br />

By ANDREW COPPOLINO<br />

Let’s work from the assumption that<br />

a strong culinary scene in any region<br />

requires well-trained chefs working<br />

inventive menus in their restaurants<br />

and serving a customer base that is engaged<br />

with and cares about cooking and freshly<br />

made food. To that, you need to add culinary<br />

instruction that connects with both of these<br />

other stakeholders.<br />

In good part, Keith Muller has been tasked<br />

with the latter element — and he is clearly<br />

in his element as a program builder. Muller<br />

is the Chair of Conestoga College’s School of<br />

Hospitality and Culinary Arts. He’s been a<br />

good part of the supervision of the 150,000<br />

square-foot expansion, which wrapped around<br />

and expanded the existing Conestoga campus<br />

at 108 University Avenue in <strong>Waterloo</strong>. The<br />

build-out of the state-of-the-art facility began<br />

in early 2017, and now includes new food<br />

and beverage programs and a new Institute<br />

for Culinary and Hospitality Management.<br />

Muller, formerly of George Brown College’s<br />

culinary program (for 12 years) and of Red<br />

River College in Winnipeg, says that the new<br />

facility and its people will have a significant<br />

impact on the growth and sustainability of<br />

<strong>Waterloo</strong> Region’s<br />

hospitality industry.<br />

“With our instructors<br />

and these<br />

state-ofthe-art<br />

facilities that we have added, Conestoga<br />

College has increased enrollment and can offer<br />

a number of new programs that have not been<br />

offered here or in the region before. It’s a new<br />

age of culinary instruction,” Muller says.<br />

Students began filling the classrooms and<br />

labs a few weeks ago, and are being introduced<br />

to new equipment and teaching facilities in<br />

far more and far better space. That means an<br />

improved learning environment, but also an<br />

opportunity for Conestoga to engage with<br />

the community-at-large in a specialized event<br />

space that is open to the general public, and<br />

through continuing and part-time education,<br />

according to Muller. That will certainly help<br />

to continue the building of the three-pronged<br />

platform of a strong culinary environment.<br />

The investors were three-fold. There has<br />

been a federal-provincial investment of<br />

about $16 million ($14 million came from the<br />

federal government and $1.8 million from<br />

the province). The College<br />

and community contributed<br />

nearly $28 million, which<br />

makes for a total investment<br />

of $43.5 million. Muller<br />

points out that the stateof-the-art<br />

facilities will help<br />

continue <strong>Waterloo</strong> Region’s<br />

bid to become a top food<br />

destination. “We’ll supply<br />

qualified and trained cooks<br />

Students work in the new stateof-the-art<br />

facilities at Conestoga<br />

College's Institute for Culinary and<br />

Hospitality Management


24 |<strong>October</strong>/<strong>November</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

to the industry here and help develop the<br />

food and beverage scene locally. To do that<br />

successfully, it’s important to bring together<br />

the farming community, food purveyors of<br />

all sorts, and the general public,” he says.<br />

To help with the program, Muller, who<br />

has trained as a chef, has experience as a<br />

In addition to creating an improved learning<br />

environment, Conestoga can also offer the community<br />

a specialized event space and more opportunities for<br />

continuing and part-time education<br />

restaurateur and<br />

has run culinary<br />

programs at<br />

a number of<br />

institutions, has<br />

appointed Amédé<br />

Lamarche as<br />

Coordinator of<br />

Culinary Programs.<br />

Lamarche, who was<br />

a faculty member<br />

at George Brown<br />

for seven years,<br />

is expert with<br />

artisan breads,<br />

chocolate and<br />

sugar confections<br />

and is a strong<br />

advocate for local<br />

and sustainable<br />

cuisine. He’s lived<br />

in several Canadian<br />

cities and worked<br />

in restaurants in<br />

Stratford, Toronto,<br />

Ottawa, Whistler<br />

and Vancouver.<br />

A certified Red<br />

Seal chef and<br />

Red Seal baker,<br />

Lamarche trained<br />

at Chicago’s French<br />

Pastry School, The<br />

Chocolate Academy<br />

in Montreal and<br />

Ecole Nationale<br />

Supérieure de<br />

la Pâtisserie in<br />

Yssingeaux, France;<br />

he cooked at The<br />

Church in Stratford<br />

for a decade.<br />

For Lamarche,<br />

good cooking is<br />

about simple and<br />

straightforward<br />

ingredients, and<br />

about sharing a<br />

passion for food.<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

From top to bottom: Keith<br />

Muller (Chair), Amédé Lamarche<br />

(Coordinator of Culinary<br />

Programs), Brad Lomanto<br />

(Executive Chef), Sabine<br />

Heinrich-Kumar (Baking and<br />

Pastry Arts)<br />

“It’s important to create a connection<br />

between fresh ingredients and the food that<br />

you serve people, whether family or restaurant<br />

guests,” Lamarche says. “It’s about being<br />

natural and real.”<br />

Both Muller and Lamarche are excited about<br />

returning the craft of culinary instruction


<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

to some of the foundational elements that<br />

are part of <strong>Waterloo</strong> Region history. “Two<br />

major components will be butchery and<br />

charcuterie, which harken to this area’s<br />

rich history and which are hugely popular<br />

movements of crafted food currently at<br />

restaurants,” Muller says, adding that the<br />

College will also be adding a program in<br />

artisanal cheese making. “That’s another<br />

age-old craft we’re looking forward to seeing<br />

grow here and in outlying regions.” Add<br />

to all of that the fact that a new and as yet<br />

unnamed restaurant will be opening at the<br />

campus. Newly appointed Corporate Chef<br />

Brad Lomanto, formerly of the Cambridge<br />

Mill, will oversee the restaurant and the<br />

food and beverage operations at the College.<br />

“One of Chef Lomanto’s most important jobs<br />

will be to ensure a consistency in training<br />

within the restaurant,” Muller notes. As for<br />

the restaurant itself, it is student-driven and<br />

“primarily on curriculum but also on the skills<br />

they are learning. It will be modern, upscalecasual<br />

and urban and an opportunity for new<br />

products and events including wine-maker,<br />

brew-master and cheese-maker dinners,”<br />

he says. Muller has also recently hired a<br />

notable culinary professional to head up the<br />

re-vamped baking and pastry arts program<br />

for Conestoga. “Sabine Heinrich-Kumar will<br />

be in charge of this program,” he says, “and<br />

to do it she brings a wealth of talent and<br />

international experience to the position.”<br />

Heinrich-Kumar has taught at both George<br />

Brown and Centennial College and has worked<br />

and trained at restaurants and hotels in<br />

Switzerland, Vienna, London and Dubai.<br />

A re-imagined culinary educational<br />

institution in <strong>Waterloo</strong> Region — like the<br />

Stratford Chefs School, Niagara College or<br />

George Brown — is a key piece of the puzzle<br />

<strong>October</strong>/<strong>November</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 25<br />

within the agrarian and farming base that<br />

characterizes <strong>Waterloo</strong> Region, says Muller.<br />

“It’s a region that is growing quickly, but it<br />

remains true to its rich and historic farming<br />

and food heritage. More and more, we see<br />

good food and great restaurants opening up<br />

with that in the background. ”<br />

ANDREW COPPOLINO is a Kitchener-based writer<br />

and broadcaster. He is publisher of <strong>Waterloo</strong> Region<br />

Eats (waterlooregioneats.com). Andrew also serves as a<br />

regional <strong>Eatdrink</strong> Editorial Consultant.<br />

something<br />

for<br />

EVERYONE<br />

Cambridge Farmers’<br />

Market<br />

Circa 1830<br />

Saturday Year Round<br />

7:00am - 1:00pm<br />

www.cambridgefarmersmarket.ca<br />

DINNER SERIES<br />

<strong>October</strong>-March<br />

Calendar, menus and<br />

reservations online<br />

StratfordChefsSchool<br />

@StratfordChef<br />

OPEN KITCHEN<br />

Hands-on classes for the<br />

dedicated home cook.<br />

Registration online<br />

stratfordchef.com


26 |<strong>October</strong>/<strong>November</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

The BUZZ<br />

Culinary Community Notes<br />

New and Notable<br />

Compiled by ANDREW COPPOLINO, BRYAN LAVERY and THE EDITORS<br />

This column consists of regional culinary<br />

news, including a large scoop of local<br />

news and inside information. There<br />

is no charge to be included here, and<br />

we encourage chefs, restaurateurs, brewers,<br />

fundraisers, culinary artisans, farmers — and<br />

everyone else with information to share — to send<br />

us details. Short and sweet! We want to include as<br />

many items as possible. See the end of this column<br />

for contact details.<br />

Kitchener<br />

After a bit of a wait running the gauntlet of<br />

bureaucratic requirements, tiki bar The Grand<br />

Surf Lounge is open for business on Ontario<br />

Street, south of Charles and across from the<br />

transit terminal. The small venue is sister venue<br />

to Grand Trunk Saloon, mere metres away. Both<br />

cocktails and food sometimes arrive in bowls.<br />

That could be the Flaming Crab Rangoon Bowl<br />

or Octopus Bowl to eat and the Scorpion Bowl or<br />

Blue Hawaii bowl cocktails to share. Try the “Three<br />

Dots and a Dash” cocktail — pretty darn good.<br />

Needless to say, there’s a lot of rum here. facebook.<br />

com/pages/category/Bar/The-Grand-Surf-<br />

Lounge-2164155130472121<br />

The Grill House at 825 Weber Street East at<br />

Montgomery in Kitchener has re-opened and<br />

re-branded with the tagline “Fresh Food. Fast.”<br />

Chef and owner Bruce Sutherland, Red Sealaccredited,<br />

has been in the restaurant and catering<br />

business for over 30 years. It’s a venue for soup<br />

and sandwich fare, a couple of breakfasts, some<br />

fresh baking — cinnamon buns and danishes,<br />

for instance — and Philly cheese steak and other<br />

lunches with cevapi, as a nod to the restaurant’s<br />

previous iteration serving eastern European<br />

dishes.facebook.com/pages/category/Restaurant/<br />

Grill-House-245069769648290<br />

We reported earlier that Wooden Boat Food<br />

Company was about to open — and so it has, at<br />

1-20 Hurst Avenue in the Mill-Courtland area<br />

of the city near the Iron Horse Trail. Owner and<br />

chef Thompson Tran describes it as a “ghost<br />

kitchen” that will be collaborating with other<br />

food operations, such as the popular Nate and<br />

Hugo Confections, and a keto food producer.<br />

Striving to be a sustainable operation in all<br />

aspects, including building materials, vegan food<br />

options will be 100 percent vegan with dedicated<br />

cooking equipment and surfaces. Friday and<br />

Saturday nights will feature Vietnamese street<br />

foods that can be purchased for take-away.<br />

woodenboatfoodcompany.com<br />

Celebrating three years serving locally-inspired<br />

dishes, Fork and Cork Grill continues to offer<br />

wine and special dinner events such as a toast<br />

to Ontario’s “cool climate cuisine” at the end of<br />

<strong>October</strong>. Executive chef Eric Neaves explains the<br />

new wine-making initiative: “It’s a really great<br />

direction with a very low-intervention, naturally<br />

fermented style. It’s a growing trend in Niagara,<br />

and one that I think produces wines with more<br />

complexity,” according to Neaves. “I also believe it<br />

will help us earn more of a distinct reputation on<br />

the world wine map. When you use natural yeasts<br />

instead of commercial, selected yeasts, you get a<br />

wine that’s truly representative of Ontario’s terroir.”<br />

Fork and Cork is also offering fun one-off events<br />

during the fall such as “Smoketoberfest” (<strong>October</strong><br />

2-14) and “Taste of Fall” (<strong>October</strong> 18–<strong>November</strong> 11).<br />

forkandcorkgrill.com<br />

You can support the work of The Working Centre<br />

while enjoying a good cup of coffee and some<br />

home-made food by visiting this new addition to<br />

the block between Scott and Eby streets along<br />

King Street East in downtown. Located at 256 King<br />

Street, Fresh Ground Café serves coffee (including<br />

Aeropress) and “light-eating” plant-based foods,<br />

such as salads, flatbreads, a whole-grain veggie<br />

burger, quinoa burger, black bean burger, and The<br />

Ferment: hummus on sourdough and veg. And,<br />

rarely seen in these parts, a galette. facebook.com/<br />

freshgroundtwc


D in<br />

anada<br />

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>2018</strong> marks the 50th anniversary of Kitchener<br />

<strong>Waterloo</strong> Oktoberfest. Since 1969 K-W Oktoberfest<br />

has developed its own traditions, combining the<br />

largest Bavarian festival in North America with<br />

the greatest Thanksgiving Day Parade in Canada.<br />

Thousands of visitors celebrate annually in the<br />

Festhallen and by attending one or more of 40<br />

family and cultural events. The local economy is<br />

stimulated through the celebration of this spirit<br />

of Gemuetlichkeit, and over 70 charities and notfor-profit<br />

organizations raise funds to support the<br />

high quality of life enjoyed in Kitchener-<strong>Waterloo</strong>.<br />

Tickets for the event (<strong>October</strong> 5–13) are on sale<br />

now. oktoberfest.ca<br />

OktoberLICIOUS brings the spirit of Gemuetlichkeit<br />

to local participating restaurants and provides<br />

a great opportunity to explore the outstanding<br />

culinary offerings in <strong>Waterloo</strong> Region. Participating<br />

restaurants add an OktoberLICIOUS prix fixe menu<br />

with special beer pairings to their menu for a<br />

three-week period. This allows each restaurant to<br />

participate in the Kitchener-<strong>Waterloo</strong> Oktoberfest<br />

Festival by introducing German delicacies with<br />

a Bavarian twist to their customers, at a special<br />

price. Some of the past participating restaurants<br />

are Rustico Kitchen & Bar, Harmony Lunch,<br />

The Boathouse, Sole’ Restaurant and Wine Bar,<br />

Marbles Restaurant and TWH Social Bar & Bistro.<br />

oktoberlicious.oktoberfest.ca<br />

Taps and Apps is Big Brothers Big Sisters of<br />

<strong>Waterloo</strong> Region’s signature event catered towards<br />

young professionals. Join other like-minded<br />

individuals with an interest in tasty food, craft beer,<br />

and networking. Grab a friend and come out to enjoy<br />

10 local restaurants, 10 local craft breweries, and live<br />

music at one of the region’s most iconic landmarks<br />

— The Walper Hotel — all while supporting local<br />

youth in need of mentorship. What better way to<br />

celebrate our community than by supporting the<br />

<strong>October</strong>/<strong>November</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 27<br />

children who grow up here? #MeetKW at Taps and<br />

Apps! bbbswr.org/taps-and-apps<br />

Bao Sandwich Bar is one of those places not many<br />

people know about, but is always packed. Located<br />

in the heart of University of <strong>Waterloo</strong> and Wilfrid<br />

Laurier University district, it’s a bit hard to find<br />

since it’s on the ground floor of a condo building in<br />

the student district. The bao sandwiches and kimchi<br />

poutine make it worth the hunt. Bao specializes in<br />

Vietnamese subs (Bánh mì) and Taiwanese steamed<br />

buns (Gua Bao). baosandwichbar.com<br />

growers & creators of fine lavender products<br />

DISCOVER<br />

Steed & Company Lavender, part of a<br />

45-acre horse farm just outside of Sparta<br />

INDULGE<br />

in our unique handcrafted lavender products<br />

ESCAPE<br />

in the wonderful scent and<br />

calming powers of lavender<br />

519-494-5525<br />

47589 Sparta Line, Sparta<br />

buds@steedandcompany.com<br />

Open Wed–Sat 10-5; Sun 12–4<br />

Mother’s Day to Dec. 19<br />

PLUS June–Labour Day: Tues 10-5<br />

www.steedandcompany.com<br />

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• Online Store<br />

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28 |<strong>October</strong>/<strong>November</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

Loloan Lobby Bar in uptown <strong>Waterloo</strong> is helmed<br />

by the owners of Jane Bond and Bhima's Warung<br />

(a local food institution and considered by many<br />

to be one of <strong>Waterloo</strong>’s best restaurants). The food<br />

and drinks are incredible, but the architecture and<br />

unique design also make this restaurant special.<br />

You feel like you are in a beautiful Thailand resort.<br />

loloanlobbybar.com<br />

The Rich Uncle Tavern got its name from a cigar<br />

that used to be manufactured in and around the<br />

tavern’s current location, back in the late 1800s to<br />

early 1900s. The Ignite Restaurant Group looked<br />

back to find inspiration for the Tavern’s name.<br />

Joseph Winterhalt, a local cigar manufacturer in<br />

Kitchener, then known as the City of Berlin, created<br />

the “Rich Uncle” line of cigars and boasted they<br />

were “10 cents and worth it.” richuncletavern.ca<br />

The name Graffiti was inspired by the Led Zeppelin<br />

album, Physical Graffiti, and allows the Ignite<br />

Restaurant Group to share their love for art and<br />

hip hop. The food philosophy at Graffiti Market is<br />

to create local comfort food with unique variations,<br />

drawing inspiration from Tuscany to Detroit,<br />

and the surrounding rural areas in Kitchener.<br />

graffitimarket.ca<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Swine and Vine, owned by Jill and Mica Sadler,<br />

was conceived to create a socially vibrant dining<br />

experience where people could come together,<br />

enjoy great beer and wine, and share charcuterie<br />

and cheese boards and other locally-sourced<br />

food. The premises at 295 Lancaster Street West<br />

in Kitchener were previously occupied by Public<br />

Kitchen & Bar, which has moved a few blocks to<br />

Victoria Street. swineandvine.ca<br />

<strong>Waterloo</strong> Brewing can lay claim not only to being<br />

Ontario’s first craft brewer but also its largest. The<br />

recipe uses fresh, handmade, simple ingredients<br />

and hasn’t changed since 1984. As the thirst for<br />

exceptional craft beers has spread, these brewers<br />

have kept their heads down and stayed true to<br />

what they believe are deeply shared K-W values of<br />

quality, craftsmanship and a spirit of innovation.<br />

waterloobrewing.com<br />

<strong>Waterloo</strong><br />

If Indiegogo has anything to say about it, <strong>Waterloo</strong><br />

will soon have a zero-waste bulk grocery store at<br />

110 King Street South. Simply named Zero Waste<br />

Bulk, the store will partner with local producers<br />

and sell bulk foods, produce, fresh breads, bulk<br />

SATURDAY,<br />

OCTOBER 6<br />

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OCTOBER 13<br />

EXPERIENCE GREAT FOOD & AUTHENTIC FESTHALLE EXPERIENCE<br />

MULTIPLE TOUR OPTIONS EACH DAY<br />

2 RESTAURANTS & 1 FESTHALLE PER TOUR!<br />

TICKETS: $135 +HST<br />

INCLUDES TRANSPORTATION, FOOD AND DRINK AT EACH STOP<br />

VISIT OKTOBERFEST.CA FOR TOUR & TICKET INFO<br />

Eat Drink Magazine Taste Ad - Horizontal.indd 1<br />

02/10/<strong>2018</strong> 4:56:36 PM


<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

liquids such as cooking oils, as well as cookies,<br />

brownies and Nanaimo bars. zerowastebulk.com<br />

Look for a major move by the Fat Sparrow Group<br />

that will take it outside of the borders of the City of<br />

<strong>Waterloo</strong> for the first time, according to co-owner<br />

Nick Benninger. With Marbles, Taco Farm, Uptown<br />

21 and Harmony Lunch under the Fat Sparrow<br />

Umbrella, and mere blocks away from each other,<br />

Benninger says that he’s excited to take this next<br />

step beyond <strong>Waterloo</strong>. He can’t say much more as<br />

the deal is pending. fatsparrowgroup.com<br />

The folks at Show & Tell Coffee on Ontario Street<br />

in downtown Kitchener have opened Brch Social<br />

(pronounced “birch”) at 1 King Street North at Erb<br />

Street in downtown <strong>Waterloo</strong>. The store promises<br />

“coffee, cocktails and good company” (or is that<br />

cmpny?). brch.ca<br />

Also now open in the heart of <strong>Waterloo</strong>’s centre core<br />

at 75 King Street South is Anchor Bar (purportedly<br />

the epicentre of Buffalo chicken wings in downtown<br />

Buffalo, New York, in the mid-1960s). Anchor Bar<br />

<strong>Waterloo</strong> opened in late August and is located<br />

in <strong>Waterloo</strong> Town Square in the space that was<br />

formerly Carl Jr.’s, off Willis Way. The Anchor<br />

management report that they expect to sell in the<br />

neighbourhood of 2,500-3,000 chicken wings per<br />

day. That’s a lot of chickens. anchorbarcanada.<br />

com/waterloo<br />

Now open near University of <strong>Waterloo</strong> is Pilaf<br />

Restaurant — no doubt it serves some rice with<br />

a name like that. Dishes are Indian and Pakistani.<br />

Like so many new restaurants in the area, it is based<br />

on the business model of building a multi-storey<br />

apartment or condo complex and leasing the<br />

ground floor units to restaurants. (The remaining<br />

floors are for students.) You certainly can’t knock<br />

that arrangement, though, because it means many<br />

<strong>October</strong>/<strong>November</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 29<br />

small outdoor malls of unique restaurants for us to<br />

sample. pilafrestaurant.ca<br />

Long a sushi and sashimi favourite in the downtown<br />

core of <strong>Waterloo</strong>, Watami closed up shop in the<br />

summer of 2016. There was much sadness in the<br />

city. But then, there was rejoicing! To a general<br />

sense of excitement, Watami has re-opened at<br />

14 King Street North in the former Hot Wheels<br />

location. For many, the restaurant is among the<br />

top venues for sushi and sashimi — and it is not an<br />

AYCE. The former location had a terrific ramen that<br />

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30 |<strong>October</strong>/<strong>November</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

was served on Sunday. Let’s hope that holds true at<br />

the new location, too. facebook.com/king15north/<br />

Congratulations to Bailey’s Local Foods,<br />

celebrating its tenth year in <strong>Waterloo</strong>. Bailey’s is an<br />

online farmers’ market where you order what you<br />

want and exactly how much from a wide selection of<br />

farmers and producers within a 100-mile radius of<br />

<strong>Waterloo</strong> Region. It’s a year-round service too. You<br />

can get more information at baileyslocalfoods.com.<br />

Cambridge<br />

Cambridge-based B Hospitality, a full-service<br />

hospitality group, has grown rapidly in <strong>Waterloo</strong><br />

Region. It is the new food and beverage provider<br />

for Lot 42, a very cool and very large multi-faceted<br />

space on Ardelt Avenue. They’ve built a state-ofthe-art<br />

catering kitchen and a 30-seat chef’s table.<br />

“It’s a unique design and multi-use environment,”<br />

according to executive chef Aaron Clyne. “It gives<br />

us more than enough support for catering and our<br />

food trucks.” The area for the chef’s table features<br />

a wood-fired grill. There’s a special temperaturecontrolled<br />

wine cellar and facilities for meat<br />

production, dry-aging and charcuterie. “It’s a<br />

humidity- and temperature-controlled unit with<br />

air purification. We’ll be able to age charcuterie<br />

and cheeses for longer periods of time,” Clyne says.<br />

The company has partnered with a number of local<br />

farms and will be able to do whole-animal butchery<br />

in the new facility. bhospitality.ca<br />

Guelph & <strong>Wellington</strong> County<br />

For more than 60 years, Reids of Cambridge has<br />

been producing chocolates, nuts, candies and other<br />

confections on Ainslie Street in downtown Galt.<br />

The long-standing sweet shop is coming to Guelph<br />

in <strong>October</strong>. It will take over the Nutty Chocolatier<br />

space in the Old Quebec Street Shoppes following a<br />

renovation. reidchocolates.com/<br />

The sleek and modern 39 Carden Street is inspired<br />

by the French bistro style, but is not a strictly a<br />

French restaurant. Chef features cuisine with a<br />

contemporary twist, prepared fresh daily using<br />

local ingredients. Snack, weekend brunch, lunch<br />

and dinner items are featured on the chalkboard<br />

menu. 39cardenstreet.com<br />

Eric Chevalier of Eric the Baker on Carden Street<br />

comes from a long line of Basque pastry chefs.<br />

His great-great-great-great-grandmother was the<br />

first woman Cordon Bleu chef at the legendary Le<br />

Grande Hotel des Paris. He sells a spectacular line<br />

of French pastries.<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

The Neighbourhood Group will be launching<br />

their annual Harvest Food Festival at all their<br />

restaurants, where they will be showcasing local<br />

farmers with a portion of sales going to local food<br />

assistance programs. This network of restaurants<br />

includes The Wooly, Borealis Grillehouse & Bar<br />

(locations in both Guelph and Kitchener), and<br />

Miijidaa Cafe + Bistro. The Harvest Food Festival<br />

runs from Tuesday, Oct 16th to Sunday, Oct 28, <strong>2018</strong>.<br />

www.neighbourhoodgroup.com/restaurants<br />

Andrew and Kim Wheeler want TOMME Cheese<br />

Shop “to be the cheese shop a food-centric town<br />

like Guelph deserves.” Located off Market Square<br />

on Carden Street, they retail an impressive range<br />

of artisanal Canadian and international cheeses,<br />

along with complimentary foods like olives, salami,<br />

spreads and crackers, cheese panini at lunchtime,<br />

and accessories.<br />

Trotters Butcher Shop and Charcuterie on Cork<br />

Street in downtown Guelph procures quality<br />

local meat from small farms in the <strong>Wellington</strong><br />

Region. Nose to tail items are made in-house and<br />

include smoked, cured and fresh meats. Educating<br />

customers about the sources, variety and quality of<br />

the product line is almost as important to Guelph<br />

butcher Brett MacDonald as retailing his delectable<br />

products. trottersbutchershop.com<br />

Guelph has stunning architecture, a strong cultural<br />

fabric and a rich historical background. Taste<br />

Detours highlights Guelph’s history by mapping it<br />

from one culinary experience to the next, offering<br />

an authentic taste of place. Lynn Broughton,<br />

founder of Taste Detours (tastedetours.ca) is a<br />

certified Food Tour Professional. Broughton has<br />

just launched EatStreet: A Moveable Brunch.<br />

This Saturday morning tour starts at the Guelph<br />

Farmers’ Market for a deep dive into Guelph’s<br />

agricultural roots. You’ll receive a sample from a<br />

few different market vendors and then head off to<br />

several stops in downtown Guelph. A bit of sweet,<br />

some savoury, a World of Taste, and much fun in<br />

between. Businesses on the tour include Guelph<br />

Farmers’ Market (Taste of Craft, Rodolfo’s Rebel<br />

Foods and Fengs Dumplings), TOMME Cheese<br />

Shop, Crafty Ramen, The Olive Experience, Killer<br />

Cupcakes Goremet and Guelph Caribbean Cuisine.<br />

www.tastedetours.ca/the-tours/eatstreet-amoveable-brunch<br />

Guelph did well recently at the <strong>2018</strong> Ontario<br />

Brewing Awards. <strong>Wellington</strong> Brewery’s golds<br />

included Country Dark Ale and Rhubarb Saison,<br />

while Royal City Brewing Co. won gold for a


<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

refreshing Oktoberfest (they also won bronze at<br />

CBAC for the Belgian-style Dubbel). Guelph has<br />

some of the best beer names too. Double Trouble<br />

Brewing Co. has Hops & Robbers IPA and Grow<br />

a Pear cider, while Brothers Brewing Company<br />

makes Tropic Thunder Pale Ale and Space Beer.<br />

ontariobrewingawards.com<br />

Guelph’s <strong>Wellington</strong> Brewery is Canada’s oldest<br />

independently owned microbrewery. The brewers<br />

craft award-winning beers in small batches using<br />

the freshest all-natural ingredients. Since 1985<br />

they’ve been a pioneer in the craft brewing scene<br />

by producing traditional style ales as well as<br />

experimenting with new recipes as part of their<br />

Welly One-Off Series. They won five gold and one<br />

silver awards at the Ontario Brewing Awards.<br />

wellingtonbrewery.ca<br />

Opening at end of <strong>October</strong> or in early <strong>November</strong> —<br />

fingers crossed — Park Grocery will be Guelph’s<br />

newest restaurant and more. It’s a multi-faceted<br />

business and one with substantial history. “It’s<br />

a neighbourhood deli offering roasted chicken,<br />

sandwiches, salads and soups all made from<br />

scratch,” says Court Desautels, Group Leader and<br />

CEO of Neighbourhood Group of Companies (NGC).<br />

But it will also be a bar, offering local beers, ciders<br />

and wine, with a barista-driven café featuring<br />

organic fair-trade coffee and teas alongside artisan<br />

sodas and milkshakes. The first business in the<br />

location was called Park Grocery, which opened<br />

about 1890. Desautels says it housed a variety of<br />

grocers until 1943 when it became a tire shop. In<br />

1947 it became a grocers again, and then Guelph<br />

Delicatessen, before finally becoming With the<br />

Grain restaurant. “With an eye to a sustainable<br />

future, Park Grocery will support a living wage and<br />

many local environmental and social initiatives.<br />

When you consider that this very location has been<br />

serving authentic, great tasting meals since 1890,<br />

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<strong>October</strong>/<strong>November</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 31<br />

it’s no surprise that this newest iteration of the past<br />

is so forward thinking,” Desautels says.<br />

The Townships & Beyond<br />

Vibrant Farms is growing, with more reach across<br />

Ontario. The Baden-based organic and pastureraised<br />

farm has partnered with another farm and<br />

has expanded home delivery and a more robust<br />

online store as well as greater reach across Ontario<br />

by virtue of a partnership with Erb Transport.<br />

vibrantfarms.com<br />

Alton Farms<br />

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32 |<strong>October</strong>/<strong>November</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

In its first appearance outside the GTA, Pickle Barrel<br />

is opening two new restaurants in <strong>Waterloo</strong> Region:<br />

one in Cambridge in the former Milestones on<br />

Hespeler Road (opening at the end of <strong>October</strong>), and<br />

one in the former Spring Rolls in Conestoga Mall,<br />

<strong>Waterloo</strong> (scheduled to open in early February).<br />

Bradshaws Christmas Open House: Friday,<br />

<strong>November</strong> 9, 5:00 pm – 8:00 pm. Bring along a<br />

few of your friends for a fun night out and the<br />

first look at Bradshaws in all its Christmas glory.<br />

There will be delicious food samplings, hot new<br />

product demos, an assortment of holiday giftware,<br />

kitchenware and entertaining items. Free gift with<br />

purchase and enter to win door prizes.<br />

Bradshaws High Tea at Revival House will be held<br />

Sunday, <strong>November</strong> 25. visitstratford.ca/member/<br />

Bradshaws<br />

A Victorian Christmas in Downtown Stratford &<br />

Outdoor Christmas Market: Sunday, <strong>November</strong> 25.<br />

Visit Stratford’s historic downtown for the Outdoor<br />

Christmas Market in Stratford’s Market Square.<br />

Enjoy a local art show, crafts for kids and meet<br />

Santa. Shop vendor stalls for holiday foods, crafts<br />

and gifts. Sip hot cocoa, listen to costumed carolers<br />

singing seasonal tunes and embrace the character<br />

and charm of Christmas in Stratford. visitstratford.ca<br />

Stratford Christmas Trail: From <strong>November</strong> 1 to<br />

December 20 capture the spirit of giving and the<br />

joy of checking items off that list on Stratford’s<br />

Christmas Trail. You’ll discover unique and<br />

individual ideas as you stroll the festive streets,<br />

exchanging six vouchers at your choice of 27 stops.<br />

visitstratford.ca/christmastrail<br />

Appetite for Words: Stratford Chefs School and<br />

Stratford Writers Festival takes place <strong>October</strong> 27<br />

and 28, featuring a Literary Dinner with Jackie Kai<br />

Ellis at Stratford Chefs School on <strong>October</strong> 27 and<br />

a Literary Brunch with Anna Olsen, at the Revival<br />

House on <strong>October</strong> 28. stratfordwritersfestival.com/<br />

literary-events/appetite-for-words-festival/<br />

Stratford's Olive Your Favourites let us know that<br />

new southern hemisphere extra virgin olive oils<br />

(EVOO) have arrived from Chile and South Africa. The<br />

customer-favourite Hojiblanca EVOO from Australia<br />

is due at any moment. oliveyourfavourites.com<br />

Milky Whey offers Cheese Pairings starting <strong>October</strong><br />

27. Explore pairings of Seasonal Beer and Cheese<br />

(<strong>October</strong> 27), Canadian Cheese and Wine (Nov 10),<br />

Who’s Got Your Goat with Pinots on the side (Nov<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

24) and Deconstructing a holiday charcuterie board<br />

workshop (Dec 1). All tastings are guided by cheese<br />

monger Liz Payne in the Whey Back Room of Milky<br />

Whey Fine Cheese, Stratford. Reserve your seat<br />

early. visitstratford.ca/member/The-Milky-Whey-<br />

Fine-Cheese-Shop<br />

The Bruce Restaurant offers a complete take-away<br />

Thanksgiving dinner. visitstratford.ca/partner/<br />

The-Bruce-Restaurant<br />

Stratford Farmers’ Market is a year-round market<br />

operating since 1855, featuring fresh produce,<br />

crafts, meat and cheese. Stratford Rotary Complex,<br />

Agriplex, 353 McCarthy Rd. Saturdays 7:00 am –<br />

12:00 pm. stratfordfairgrounds.com<br />

Stratford Chefs School launches its 35th year with<br />

their “Season Opener” party on Friday, <strong>October</strong><br />

19th. Celebrate the start of a new school year and<br />

a new Stratford Chefs School cookbook, Farm to<br />

Table: Celebrating Stratford Chefs School Alumni<br />

Recipes & Perth County Producers (Blue Moon<br />

Publishers). This stunning book retails for $30 and<br />

features recipes from some of the regions' most<br />

celebrated graduates of Stratford Chefs School and<br />

fascinating interviews with the chefs conducted<br />

by <strong>Eatdrink</strong> contributor and CBC food columnist<br />

Andrew Coppolino and striking imagery provided<br />

by photographer and SCS alumna Terry Manzo. A<br />

good party always ends up in the kitchen and this<br />

one will be no different! Meet the students and<br />

faculty, learn about exciting upcoming events and<br />

the dinner series, and explore the outstanding<br />

facilities. Wine and beer will be available. Space is<br />

limited. RSVP universe.com/<strong>2018</strong>scsseasonopener<br />

Stratford Chefs School Dinner Series reservations<br />

opened on <strong>October</strong> 1st! And keep in mind Stratford<br />

Chefs School Dough. This is a gift certificate<br />

program where “dough” (aka dollars) may be<br />

applied towards any SCS merchandise, Dinner<br />

Series, and Open Kitchen cooking class. Purchase<br />

SCS Dough valued at $120 for only $100! Starting<br />

on <strong>October</strong> 1st SCS Dough can be purchased at the<br />

Administration Office at 192 Ontario Street. SCS<br />

Dough is available in $5, $10 and $20 denominations<br />

and is redeemable at full denomination value. Some<br />

restrictions apply. To learn more, visit our website<br />

or call the office. 519-271-1414, stratfordchef.com<br />

Stratford Chefs School is thrilled to announce Jane<br />

Sigal is the <strong>2018</strong> Joseph Hoare Gastronomic Writer<br />

in Residence. Jane Sigal is a celebrated journalist,<br />

editor, recipe developer, translator, teacher, and<br />

is the author of nine cookbooks. Her most recent


<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

book, Bistronomy: Recipes from The Best New Paris<br />

Bistros (Rizzoli, 2015), has been widely praised by<br />

critics and industry leaders. Jane will spend two<br />

weeks at the school working with the students and<br />

participating in a number of events open to the<br />

public. stratfordchef.com<br />

Savour Stratford Culinary Trails: Explore the<br />

delicious flavours of Chocolate and Bacon and Ale<br />

on self-guided culinary walks to various food shops<br />

and restaurants. Available all year round, they are<br />

great for a girls’ getaway, a couple’s diversion or<br />

just for fun. Culinary trail gift certificates, great<br />

for Christmas, birthday and anniversary gifts are<br />

redeemable at a later date and can be purchased<br />

on-line. visitstratford.ca/chocolatetrail<br />

Stonetown Artisan Cheese is a purveyor of Swiss<br />

mountain-style cheeses, hand-crafted by master<br />

cheesemaker Ramon Eberle. Using unpasteurized<br />

milk from farmers Hans and Jolanda Weber’s<br />

herd of Holsteins, Eberle uses raw milk so that the<br />

cheese ripens as naturally as possible while the<br />

flavours improve with maturation. Cheeses and<br />

other local products are available to buy on-site<br />

at the farm store. Guided group tours are $5 per<br />

person (minimum 15 people). See the complete<br />

process of cheesemaking with the cheesemaker.<br />

The tour lasts about 60–90 minutes. 5021 Perth<br />

County Line 8 (Kirkton Road), St. Marys, 519-229-<br />

6856, stonetowncheese.com<br />

BIG OR SMALL,<br />

WE CATER ’EM ALL<br />

We specialize in bringing Southern hospitality<br />

and our award-winning food to your special<br />

occasion.<br />

OUR PLACE OR YOURS<br />

Our upstairs event space,<br />

The Lanc Loft, features a<br />

full bar, separate washrooms,<br />

PA system, tables and chairs.<br />

Our fully-mobile food truck has complete<br />

kitchen facilities wherever you need us!<br />

EAT LOCAL. EAT FRESH.<br />

lancsmokehouse.com<br />

574 Lancaster Street West Kitchener ON<br />

Monday–Saturday Open @ 11:30am<br />

Contact our Catering Manager for booking inquiries<br />

519.743.4331 | info@lancsmokehouse.com<br />

We want your BUZZ!<br />

Do you have culinary news or upcoming events<br />

that you’d like us to share?<br />

Every issue, <strong>Eatdrink</strong> reaches more than<br />

50,000 readers throughout <strong>Waterloo</strong> Region &<br />

<strong>Wellington</strong> County in print,<br />

and thousands more online.<br />

Get in touch with us at editor@eatdrink.ca and/or<br />

connect directly with our Social Media Editor<br />

Bryan Lavery at bryan@eatdrink.ca<br />

Submission deadline for the next issue is Nov. 5.<br />

eatdrink.ca


34 |<strong>October</strong>/<strong>November</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

Beer<br />

Seasonal Sensations<br />

Ciders and Sours, for Autumn<br />

by GEORGE MACKE<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Ciders and sours. As summer<br />

morphs into fall, these two styles of<br />

alcoholic beverages become top of<br />

mind for me.<br />

Craft ciders, led<br />

by cideries such as<br />

KW Craft Cider in<br />

<strong>Waterloo</strong>, are gaining<br />

momentum as both<br />

an alternative to<br />

white wine and,<br />

because ciders are<br />

fermented using<br />

fruit not grain, a<br />

gluten-free choice for an alcoholic beverage.<br />

Interest is such that some craft breweries<br />

— Walkerville in Windsor and Toboggan in<br />

London, for example — are adding their own<br />

takes on cider in-house, perhaps with wider<br />

distribution on the horizon.<br />

Sour beers have an exciting tartness, and<br />

are more enjoyable, sessionable and thirstquenching<br />

than an overly hopped IPA. We can<br />

thank Belgium for developing the style which<br />

has been embraced by many Ontario craft<br />

brewers, most notably Half Hours on Earth in<br />

Seaforth. Farmhouse sours, in theory, feature<br />

locally available ingredients and started as a<br />

low-alcohol style consumed around<br />

the fall harvest, as a lunchtime<br />

meal companion or end-of-day<br />

reward after hard hours in<br />

the fields. Look for words like<br />

lambic, Flanders red, gose, or<br />

Berliner weisse and chances are<br />

you’ve got a delightful sour in<br />

your hand.<br />

While many good examples<br />

of ciders and sours can be<br />

found at the LCBO and select<br />

grocery stores, beverage<br />

explorers know the best way<br />

to discover the talents of<br />

Southwestern Ontario cideries<br />

and brewers is to hit the<br />

road and buy direct, or use<br />

the breweries’ online stores<br />

if available.<br />

To whet your appetite, here’s<br />

a twelve-pack of sensational<br />

ciders and sours.<br />

KW Craft Sparkling<br />

Dry Cider —This flagship<br />

brand has been a consistent<br />

medal winner at the<br />

Great Lakes International<br />

Cider and


<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Perry Competition in Michigan. This is 6.7 per<br />

cent alcohol (abv) and is refreshing on its own<br />

or with a cheese tray.<br />

Hammer Bent Original by Twin<br />

Pines — Made from a blend of<br />

Northern Spy, Ida Red, Golden<br />

Russett and Jonagold apples<br />

grown in the Thedford<br />

orchards, Hammer Bent<br />

Original leads a family of<br />

nine versions of cider and<br />

apple wine from Twin Pines. It’s<br />

their best, but Crack Willow, an apple wine<br />

made with Northern Spy, Ida Red, and Golden<br />

Russet piques the interest of beverage<br />

voyageurs.<br />

Against the Currant by<br />

<strong>Wellington</strong> Brewing — Available<br />

as part of the Welly Rebooted Mix<br />

Pack Volume 4, Against the Currant<br />

is a purple monster of tang.<br />

Brewed in Guelph using Ontario<br />

black currants, there’s also a slight<br />

lemon flavour. The pack is at the<br />

LCBO or can be ordered through<br />

<strong>Wellington</strong> Brewing’s online store.<br />

Oak Aged Blueprint by Half<br />

Hours on Earth — Okay, it’s tough<br />

to keep up with what’s available at<br />

Half Hours on Earth in Seaforth, as<br />

versions of small batch sours come<br />

and go quickly. Half Hours updates<br />

its inventory availability each<br />

Thursday. Earth Oak Aged Blueprint<br />

is a 4.5% abv farmhouse saison. It’s<br />

aged in cider barrels, then blended<br />

with perry (aka cider made from<br />

pears) from Revel Cider in Guelph.<br />

Snag one of these to impress your<br />

friends.<br />

Hansel and Brett’el<br />

Farmhouse Blonde Ale by<br />

Forked River — Aged in chardonnay<br />

barrels for six months, Hansel<br />

and Brett’el is both light (4.6%<br />

abv) and flavourful, but not found<br />

by walking in the woods. Forked<br />

River suggests pairing it with a<br />

Cobb salad. Hansel and Brett’el<br />

is available only at the brewery<br />

bottle shop in London or through<br />

the Forked River online store.


eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Look for<br />

us in the<br />

LCBO!<br />

FAMILY OWNED & OPERATED • PROUDLY BREWED IN LONDON<br />

1030 ELIAS STREET, LONDON • 548-888-ALES<br />

Berry Berliner by Innocente Brewing<br />

— This seasonal was brewed as a collaboration<br />

between Innocente of <strong>Waterloo</strong> and craftloving<br />

Beertown Public House (locations in<br />

<strong>Waterloo</strong>, London, Cambridge,<br />

and Burlington). Brewed with<br />

raspberries and blackberries,<br />

it’s a nod to Ontario fruit<br />

farmers. It’s very light at<br />

3.8% abv with an entrylevel<br />

tartness. Innocente<br />

and Beertown have done six<br />

collaborative brews — keep an eye out for<br />

them. Berry Berliner is in cans at the brewery<br />

or available for growler fills.<br />

Sports by Refined Fool — Named in<br />

honour of sports being one of our most<br />

beloved universal<br />

conversation-starters<br />

(How ‘bout those Leafs?<br />

Finally, eh?), Sports is<br />

5.5% abv and 20 IBU<br />

(International Bitterness<br />

Units). This saison uses<br />

boysenberries. Tasting<br />

notes point out tangerine<br />

and honey flavours. Game on!<br />

Face for a Neck Tattoo by Refined Fool<br />

— Make it two for Sarnia’s<br />

craft brewery. This 5.2% abv,<br />

27 IBU saison uses Szechuan<br />

peppercorns. The name plays<br />

on tough guys softened by<br />

liking the taste of this one.<br />

Keyser Gose by Forked<br />

River — Brewers at London’s<br />

Forked River used lactobacillus<br />

followed by brewers yeast to<br />

create this new gently sour,<br />

citrusy gose, a beer style from<br />

Germany. It’s a brewery store/<br />

Forked River online exclusive.<br />

Spirit of the Woods by<br />

Revel Cider — Guelph’s cider<br />

house collaborated with Dillon’s<br />

Small Batch<br />

Distillers of Beamsville to<br />

create this by aging the cider<br />

on spent gin botanicals. A<br />

gold medal winner at the<br />

Ontario Cider Awards in<br />

2015, Spirit of the Woods is<br />

6.9% abv.


<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

66 Pickup by Hoity Toity — A<br />

gold medal winner at the Great<br />

Lakes International Cider and Perry<br />

competition, 66 Pickup veers to the<br />

dry side. Kudos to the rural Bruce<br />

County winery for rebranding this<br />

cider from its original name, Gravel<br />

Run, which left my throat dusty.<br />

This lightly carbonated cider is made<br />

with apples harvested in Grey and<br />

Bruce counties.<br />

Road Trip!<br />

Come to the Cowbell Farm in Blyth, Ontario<br />

“THE NO.1 CRAFT BREWERY IN CANADA TO VISIT.”<br />

—WAYNE NEWTON, FOOD & DRINK JOURNALIST<br />

Toboggan Cider — The Richmond Row,<br />

London brew pub aims to please by offering<br />

a pair of its own ciders, a dry and a sweet.<br />

Either works well for sitting<br />

on the restaurant’s patio and<br />

toasting the drop-off of your<br />

kid up the road at Western,<br />

but the nod goes to the dry<br />

version for its citrus undertone.<br />

Both are 6% abv.<br />

GEORGE MACKE is a craft beer lover exploring the<br />

breweries (and cideries) throughout Southwestern Ontario.<br />

40035 BLYTH ROAD, BLYTH, ON N0M 1H0<br />

1-844-523-4724 WWW.COWBELLBREWING.COM<br />

BLACK SWAN<br />

BREWING COMPANY<br />

STRATFORD • ONTARIO<br />

It's what we drink.<br />

144 DOWNIE ST, STRATFORD<br />

BLACKSWANBREWING.CA 519 • 814 • 7926 @BLACKSWANBREWINGCO


38 |<strong>October</strong>/<strong>November</strong> <strong>2018</strong> eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Wine<br />

Pioneers of “Huron Shores”<br />

Alton Farms Estate Winery in Lambton County<br />

by GARY KILLOPS<br />

Looking for a day trip close to<br />

home? Alton Farms Estate<br />

Winery, located at 5547<br />

Aberarder Line, Plympton-<br />

Wyoming is just about an hour west of<br />

London.<br />

Marc Alton and Anne Kurtz-<br />

Alton, who own and operate the<br />

vineyard, recently celebrated the fifth<br />

anniversary of the winery. The Altons<br />

purchased the 90-acre property in 2005<br />

and soon after planted a test acre of fifteen<br />

different varietals to see what they could grow<br />

best on the property.<br />

They proved wrong the naysayers who said<br />

it would be too cold for grapes to grow and for<br />

vines to survive the cold winters, and went<br />

on to became Lambton County’s first winery.<br />

Together with Dark Horse Estate Winery and<br />

Maelstrom Winery in neighboring Huron<br />

County an Ontario wine region is forming,<br />

unofficially called “Huron Shores”.<br />

“From the beginning we have always been<br />

committed to sustainability both in the<br />

vineyard and the winery,” Anne explains. “We<br />

try not to waste anything. We compost the<br />

pruned vines in the spring, and the grape<br />

skins and seeds after harvest. We also have a<br />

herd of Shetland sheep and 15 lambs who eat<br />

the ground cover between the rows of<br />

vine and fertilize the soil.”<br />

As is the case for most vineyards in<br />

southern Ontario, too much moisture<br />

from rain and humidity can be a concern.<br />

Marc, who is both the winemaker and<br />

vineyard manager, keeps a close watch<br />

on the climate and will only use the most<br />

sustainable products when there is a<br />

need to spray in the vineyard.<br />

A geo-engineer and marine geologist<br />

by profession, Marc is a self-taught<br />

winemaker and grape grower. He is<br />

learning, adapting, and challenging<br />

traditional winemaking practices and<br />

is willing to<br />

experiment with unusual blends that are both<br />

interesting and unique.<br />

In 2013 the winery opened to the public<br />

in a century-old wooden drive shed on the<br />

property. “It’s been a labour of love,” says<br />

Anne. “As our budget allows we look to make<br />

improvements to the winery and in the<br />

vineyard.” This year the tasting room and<br />

retail store were moved to the renovated<br />

basement of the family home, offering a<br />

striking wooden tasting bar with superior<br />

lighting and welcoming ambience. The winery<br />

offers a flight of three wines for $5. The tasting<br />

fee is waived with wine purchase. In addition<br />

to wine, the retail store has glassware, gift<br />

baskets, and wine accessories for sale.<br />

Other recent additions to the winery<br />

Anne Kurtz-Alton with some of the vital vineyard workers


<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>October</strong>/<strong>November</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 39<br />

Taste the elements.<br />

1709 Front Road, St. Williams, Norfolk County, ON<br />

Tastings, Tours & Events<br />

burningkilnwinery.ca 519.586.9858<br />

@burningkilnwine


40 |<strong>October</strong>/<strong>November</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

include an open-air patio and a wood-fired<br />

pizza oven offering Margherita, meat lovers,<br />

Mediterranean chicken and gluten-free pizzas.<br />

The patio menu also includes charcuterie<br />

boards with a selection of seasonal meats,<br />

cheeses, breads, crackers and fruits. Wine is<br />

available by the glass.<br />

The selection of red, white and rosé wines<br />

available for purchase from the winery is<br />

always changing as new wines are released. The<br />

current offerings include a 2016 riesling, 2016<br />

sauvignon blanc and 2015 chardonnay, and<br />

a rosé made from marechel foch grapes. Red<br />

wines include the 2016 baco noir, 2015 cabernet<br />

sauvignon and 2015 cabernet franc. Some<br />

hybrid and vinifera blends are also available.<br />

Alton Farms wine production is small<br />

when compared to other wineries in Ontario.<br />

Last year they produced just under 600 cases<br />

and hope to increase production to about<br />

800 cases this year. With this volume it is<br />

difficult to make a profit. “You really have<br />

to make more wine, and sell more volume,”<br />

Marc said. Anne also pointed out that the<br />

patio and special events help keep the winery<br />

open at this time.<br />

The winery hosted quite a few events this<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Enjoy wine pizza from the wood-fired oven on the patio<br />

past summer such as “Wine Wednesday<br />

Dinners” featuring different local chefs each<br />

week and food paired with wines from Alton<br />

Estates. They also hold “Wine and Paint” and<br />

“Wine and Yoga” afternoons and the annual<br />

“Fine Art, Fine Wine: Show and Sale.” Many of<br />

these events sold out.<br />

On September 23rd the winery will host the<br />

third annual grape stomp event. The stomping<br />

fee is $5 per entry, with all proceeds in support<br />

of Bluewater Centre for Raptor Rehabilitation.<br />

This is a family event with competitive adult<br />

grape stomping and kid stomps.<br />

On <strong>October</strong> 13th the winery will host their<br />

second annual Weinfest. This family-friendly<br />

event is a German tradition in celebration of<br />

the new wines in production after harvest.<br />

Alton Farms Estate Winery<br />

5547 Aberarder Line, Plympton-Wyoming<br />

519-899-2479<br />

altonfarmsestatewinery.com<br />

The new tasting room has a warm welcoming ambiance<br />

GARY KILLOPS is a CAPS Certified Sommelier who<br />

loves to talk, taste, and write about wine. He shares his<br />

tasting notes on EssexWineReview.com<br />

Share Our Passion<br />

Available<br />

at<br />

at the<br />

Fine LCBO Restaurants<br />

& The Winery<br />

Colchester Ridge Estate Winery<br />

A Family-Run Craft Winery<br />

Award-Winning VQA Wines<br />

Friendly Tasting Boutique<br />

Picnic Tables<br />

Artisanal Ontario Cheeses<br />

Special Events<br />

@crewinery • 108 Essex County Road 50 • Harrow ON • 519-738-9800


<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Recipes<br />

<strong>October</strong>/<strong>November</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 41<br />

From Farm to Table to Page<br />

Forest City Cookbook<br />

By Alieska Robles<br />

Review and Recipe Selections by TRACY TURLIN<br />

If you’re not paying attention, London<br />

might seem a little ... beige (as I once<br />

heard it described by comedian Billy<br />

Connolly). Fortunately, Alieska Robles<br />

has experience finding the heart of a place.<br />

She was raised in Caracas, Venezuela and<br />

spent several years in Buenos Aires, Argentina<br />

before relocating to London. Once here,<br />

she went looking for the vibrant network of<br />

people that make up the local food movement<br />

in London. The result of this labour of love<br />

of nearly two years is Forest City Cookbook<br />

(Alieska Robles; self-published; <strong>2018</strong>).<br />

The best cookbooks, to me, are stories of<br />

people and their traditions, our memories of the<br />

past and our connections to our communities.<br />

Forest City Cookbook focuses on local producers,<br />

artisans and chefs in the London region. It’s<br />

organized not by courses but by producers,<br />

and offers recipes from local chefs using the<br />

highlighted ingredients. I love this approach as it<br />

allows you to choose a recipe based on what you<br />

have on hand. It’s easy to forget but traditionally<br />

cooking is ingredient driven. If you have<br />

peaches, you make something with peaches.<br />

There’s a guide to seasonal produce in the back<br />

of the book to help you plan for that.<br />

The author’s well-travelled<br />

parents exposed her to many<br />

different cultures, leaving<br />

her with a love of antiques,<br />

collectibles and cookbooks.<br />

This is reflected in her<br />

wonderful photography, which<br />

is unusually dark (but very<br />

effective) for a cookbook. The<br />

refreshing approach gives you<br />

the feeling of an old-fashioned,<br />

slower way of life while<br />

highlighting modern food.<br />

Forest City Cookbook has<br />

more than a few surprises. I<br />

had no idea<br />

that we had<br />

local producers<br />

of wild<br />

boar but<br />

Perth Pork<br />

Products<br />

offers it<br />

among<br />

its selection<br />

of<br />

heritage<br />

breed<br />

meats.<br />

David<br />

Bistro’s chef<br />

Elvis Drennan’s recipe for<br />

Honey & Rosemary Glazed Wild Boar combines<br />

this delicious meat with a tart cherry<br />

compote. A potato rosti with sauerkraut adds<br />

a beautiful touch of crispy and tangy. Served<br />

with fresh green beans, it’s the kind of dish<br />

that, without being too technically difficult,<br />

makes you look like a genius in the kitchen.<br />

I love fruit crisps because they are easy<br />

to prepare and adjust to whatever fruit you<br />

have on hand. Juliana Guy Wesseling won the<br />

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>/Forest City Cookbook<br />

original recipe contest using<br />

all local ingredients. Her<br />

Apple Crisp recipe takes<br />

this humble dessert to new<br />

heights. Generous portions<br />

of fruit and crumble topping<br />

are pushed over the top with<br />

a candied bacon caramel<br />

sauce and Gunn’s Hill 5<br />

Brothers Reserve Cheese.<br />

This dish ticks all the yummy<br />

boxes, and then some.<br />

Author/photographer Alieska Robles


42 |<strong>October</strong>/<strong>November</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Forest City Cookbook is focused on<br />

community. There’s a special mention of Urban<br />

Roots, a non-profit dedicated to utilizing<br />

underused city space to grow fresh food. Its<br />

goal is to reduce food insecurity by facilitating<br />

the placement of urban farm plots throughout<br />

London. <strong>Eatdrink</strong>’s Food Editor Bryan Lavery<br />

contributed the cookbook’s foreword and a<br />

summary of local culinary history. His recipe<br />

for Roasted Vegetable Terrine is an ideal way<br />

to bring a variety of these vegetables together<br />

while keeping their flavours and textures<br />

intact. Infinitely variable, it can be served as an<br />

appetizer or main course and tastes as amazing<br />

as it looks.<br />

Alieska Robles’s Forest City Cookbook<br />

connects the dots between all the players in<br />

the local farm-to-table community. It’s the<br />

story of our city and some of the people who<br />

work so hard to make it a special place to be:<br />

producers, educators, suppliers, chefs and<br />

artists. Robles looks at London with fresh<br />

eyes and shows us what we may have missed<br />

in our complacency. Sometimes it takes a new<br />

perspective to make you appreciate how good<br />

we have it.<br />

TRACY TURLIN is a freelance writer and dog groomer<br />

in London. Reach her at tracyturlin@gmail.com<br />

Recipes excerpted from Forest City Cookbook<br />

reproduced by arrangement with the Publisher.<br />

All rights reserved.<br />

Apple Crisp<br />

with Candied Bacon, Bacon Caramel Sauce & Aged Cheese<br />

by JULIANNA GUY WESSELING<br />

Prep: 35 Minutes • Cook: 1 Hour 30 Minutes<br />

Serves 8<br />

Apples • Dessert • Easy<br />

Apple crumble and apple pie<br />

with cheddar have always<br />

been top contenders on my<br />

father’s favourite desserts<br />

list. He would even ask for<br />

them instead of birthday cake!<br />

This recipe quickly became<br />

my family’s “go-to” dessert<br />

but needed a little “extra<br />

something” to be a contestwinning<br />

recipe for submitting<br />

to the <strong>Eatdrink</strong> magazine<br />

recipe contest. Combining<br />

sweet and peppery bacon with<br />

creamy, salty caramel, and<br />

sharp aged cheese is a twist<br />

on a classic that is sure to<br />

impress!<br />

CRUMB TOPPING<br />

¾ cup flour<br />

1 cup quick oats<br />

¼ cup packed brown sugar<br />

2 Tbsp sugar<br />

½ tsp salt<br />

⅔ cup butter, frozen, grated<br />

love<br />

In a large bowl, mix flour, oats,<br />

brown sugar, white sugar and salt.


<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Using your hands or a pastry blender, cut the butter into<br />

the flour (the butter should hold its shape when pressed).<br />

Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until the apple<br />

filling is ready.<br />

FILLING (makes 6 cups)<br />

⅓ cup sugar<br />

1 Tbsp cornstarch<br />

¼ tsp ground nutmeg<br />

2 tsp ground cinnamon<br />

8 medium Royal Gala apples, peeled, medium<br />

diced<br />

1 Tbsp apple cider vinegar<br />

love<br />

In a large bowl, combine sugar and cornstarch. Add<br />

nutmeg, cinnamon and apples. Drizzle with vinegar and<br />

toss until the apples are evenly coated.<br />

APPLE CRISP<br />

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Place the apple filling into a 9x9<br />

baking dish. Evenly cover the apples with crumb topping,<br />

making sure to fill all the little nooks and crannies around<br />

the sides. Bake for 45–55 minutes or until golden brown<br />

and bubbling.<br />

CHEF NOTE: Don’t worry, the mound of apples will cook<br />

down!<br />

CANDIED BACON<br />

500 g double smoked bacon, thinly sliced<br />

½ cup brown sugar<br />

freshly cracked black pepper<br />

love<br />

Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Evenly<br />

distribute the bacon and generously cover each strip with<br />

brown sugar. Evenly sprinkle the black pepper and bake<br />

for 15-20 minutes until glazed and crispy. Rotate halfway<br />

through. Remove from oven and allow to cool. Try not to<br />

eat it all!<br />

CANDIED BACON CARAMEL SAUCE<br />

1 cup sugar<br />

2 Tbsp water<br />

¼ cup candied bacon, crumbled<br />

¼ cup butter, cubed<br />

¾ cup 35% cream<br />

love<br />

In a medium pot, bring sugar and water to a boil over<br />

medium heat. Reduce the heat and simmer for 6-8 minutes<br />

without stirring, occasionally swirling the pot until the<br />

caramel reaches a medium amber colour. Add the candied<br />

bacon to the caramel and remove from heat. Add butter<br />

and cream and whisk until well combined. Transfer to a<br />

glass jar and allow to cool until ready to use.<br />

FINISH<br />

200 g Gunn’s Hill Five Brothers Reserve Cheese<br />

In a deep plate, scoop a portion of the apple crisp, drizzle<br />

with caramel sauce, add a few pieces of Five Brother’s<br />

Cheese and top with a strip of candied bacon. Enjoy!<br />

31 Nottinghill Gate, Suite 203,<br />

Oakville ON TICO#50013851<br />

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Come Experience Our World!<br />

Visit our cheese shop and sample our<br />

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See and learn about how cheese is made.<br />

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Group tours are available by reservation.<br />

MON-SAT 9-5<br />

445172 Gunn's Hill Rd, Woodstock, ON<br />

519-424-4024<br />

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TICO#50013851


44 |<strong>October</strong>/<strong>November</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

Honey & Rosemary Glazed Wild Boar<br />

with Cherry Compote, Green Beans & Sauerkraut Roti<br />

by ELVIS DRENNAN<br />

Prep: 20 Minutes • Cook: 40 Minutes<br />

Serves 2<br />

Pork & Wild Boar • Main • Easy<br />

Boar is an underused meat, not commonly seen<br />

in many restaurants. This recipe comes from<br />

an eagerness to experiment with it, challenging<br />

myself to create an unconventional meal<br />

with an unusual and particularly interesting<br />

combination of flavours.<br />

HONEY & ROSEMARY GLAZE<br />

4 Tbsp honey<br />

2 sprigs of rosemary, stems removed, minced<br />

In a small pot, slightly warm the honey. Remove from heat<br />

and add rosemary. Set aside until ready to use.<br />

CHERRY COMPOTE<br />

1 Tbsp olive oil<br />

⅛ Tbsp onion, minced<br />

⅛ Tbsp garlic, minced<br />

2 Tbsp sugar<br />

12 local cherries, pitted, halved<br />

½ cup red wine<br />

2 Tbsp red wine vinegar<br />

salt and pepper to taste<br />

In a small pan, heat the olive oil and sauté onions<br />

and garlic until soft. Add remaining ingredients<br />

and bring to a simmer, allow the liquid to reduce<br />

until thickened. Set aside until ready to use.<br />

SAUERKRAUT ROTI<br />

1 large Yukon gold potato<br />

¼ cup sauerkraut, drained<br />

¼ cup flour<br />

1 large egg<br />

1 Tbsp olive oil<br />

salt to taste<br />

Place the potato in a large pot and cover with<br />

water. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat and<br />

simmer for 5 minutes. Remove the pot from the<br />

heat and leave the potato in the water for 5-10<br />

additional minutes. Strain and rinse the potato<br />

in cold water. Shred with the skin on.<br />

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Using a stand<br />

mixer, combine shredded potato, sauerkraut,<br />

flour and egg. Mix well until a moist dough forms<br />

and shape into 2 patties. Adjust consistency with<br />

water or flour if needed.<br />

In a large ovenproof pan, heat the olive<br />

oil over high heat. Sear one side of the potato<br />

patties until golden brown. Season with salt,<br />

turn over and place in the oven for 10 minutes<br />

or until thoroughly cooked.<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

GREEN BEANS<br />

1 cup green beans<br />

Bring a small pot of water to a boil. Blanch the green<br />

beans for 2 minutes until crisp and bright green. Strain<br />

and shock in an ice water bath. Lightly sauté in the same<br />

pan used for the sauerkraut roti.<br />

BOAR TENDERLOIN<br />

2 Tbsp olive oil<br />

2 large wild boar tenderloins<br />

salt and pepper<br />

In a separate ovenproof pan, heat the olive oil over high<br />

heat. Add boar tenderloins and sear until golden brown,<br />

turn over and place in the oven for 8-12 minutes or until<br />

desired doneness.<br />

CHEF NOTES: Ideally, the boar should still have some<br />

pink colour for best results.<br />

Remove from oven and brush thoroughly with<br />

rosemary glaze. Transfer to a cutting board and allow to<br />

rest for 3-5 minutes before slicing.<br />

Serve with sauerkraut roti and green beans. Top with<br />

cherry compote.


<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>October</strong>/<strong>November</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 45<br />

Books<br />

Buttermilk Graffiti<br />

A Chef’s Journey to Discover America’s New Melting-Pot Cuisine<br />

Review by DARIN COOK<br />

Fusion is not new in the restaurant<br />

world. Even though Chef Edward<br />

Lee fears it has become a culinary<br />

gimmick, he knows the concept had<br />

profound meaning when it originated in a<br />

restaurant in Florida under the gaze of one of<br />

his heroes, Norman Van Aken. Real fusion is<br />

attuned to the everyday cooking of families<br />

who set roots in a new country and harmonize<br />

immigrant traditions with local cuisine. These<br />

are the types of recipes, restaurants, chefs<br />

and families that Lee searched for from the<br />

nationalities sprawled across American cities<br />

when writing Buttermilk Graffiti: A Chef ’s<br />

Journey to Discover America’s New Melting-<br />

Pot Cuisine (Thomas Allen & Son, <strong>2018</strong>).<br />

Whenever Lee has clam pizza in Connecticut<br />

he contemplates “the slow and gradual<br />

interconnection of two cultures, in this<br />

case, Italian and New England.” He further<br />

writes, “When you look at the evolution of<br />

American cuisine, you always find this tension<br />

between tradition and innovation, a tension<br />

that produces the foods we crave most. It is<br />

in the intersection of the home we leave and<br />

the home we adopt that we find a dish that<br />

defines who we really are.”<br />

Lee was raised in Brooklyn with his Korean<br />

family before he moved to Kentucky, where he<br />

refined his own cooking style. He identifies as a<br />

Southern chef, influenced not only by all other<br />

American styles, but also immigrant ones. He<br />

implores us to be “fascinated by other unlikely<br />

couplings that make up the narrative of life in<br />

America” because he knows that people project<br />

the food of their culture<br />

onto the fabric of their<br />

whole identity.<br />

Immigrants revealed<br />

how they missed their<br />

homeland's ways of eating.<br />

A Moroccan immigrant in<br />

Connecticut reminisces<br />

about Marrakesh: “Every<br />

day, you gather with<br />

Author Edward Lee<br />

families and<br />

friends for meals.<br />

You stroll through<br />

the markets and<br />

smell spices …<br />

You drink mint<br />

tea in cafes and<br />

talk all day till<br />

the sun goes<br />

down. Meals<br />

are celebrations,<br />

enjoyed in large groups.” Keeping<br />

food traditions alive, she teaches Lee to<br />

prepare smen, a traditional Moroccan butter.<br />

Lee's cross-country journey is entertaining<br />

and enlightening with French beignets in New<br />

Orleans, Cambodian cuisine in Massachusetts,<br />

Cuban food in Florida (where he learned to<br />

taste food in new ways by learning the nuances<br />

of smoking cigars), German schnitzel in<br />

Wisconsin, Lebanese kibbeh in Mississippi, and<br />

Swedish pancakes in Seattle.<br />

Throughout the book, Lee encourages<br />

experimentation and making food fusion<br />

personal. He suggests taking a recipe<br />

that you like and fusing it with your own<br />

preferences. This is how the recipes at the<br />

end of each chapter were born, as Lee riffs on<br />

unique global delicacies, like Coffee-Glazed<br />

Bacon with Pickled Watermelon and Fried<br />

Peanuts. “I never understood why the Asian<br />

identity and the American identity had to be<br />

compartmentalized," writes Lee, "the way my<br />

Salisbury steak and apple pie were separated in<br />

my Swanson’s dinner. I wanted them all in one<br />

bite.” Buttermilk Graffiti<br />

proves that each bite of<br />

food can lead to cultural<br />

outpourings about families,<br />

recipes, traditions, and<br />

memories.<br />

DARIN COOK is a regular<br />

<strong>Eatdrink</strong> contributor who lives<br />

and works in Chatham-Kent.


46 |<strong>October</strong>/<strong>November</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

The Lighter Side<br />

Pescatarian Tales<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

By REBECCA ST. PIERRE<br />

Meat was a constant part of my diet<br />

when I was growing up in rural<br />

Southwestern Ontario. Pot roast,<br />

chicken wings and my mother’s<br />

signature headcheese took turns stealing<br />

prominent places of distinction on my dinner<br />

plate. At Christmas a large platter of honeyglazed<br />

ham was proudly displayed in the<br />

middle of the dining table, forcing all other<br />

lesser dishes of food to fight for the remaining<br />

space, and at Thanksgiving a beautifully<br />

browned turkey encouraged sibling rivalry<br />

over the wishbone. I didn’t question whether I<br />

should or shouldn’t eat meat.<br />

Time passed and I moved<br />

away from home, and after<br />

careful deliberation decided<br />

to stop eating meat — at least<br />

land animals. I continue to eat<br />

aquatic creatures like fish and<br />

seafood. For the past 20 years I<br />

thought I was a vegetarian because I<br />

was raised on the belief that fish flesh<br />

was not meat. Unknowingly I have been lying<br />

to family, friends, and myself for nearly two<br />

decades. The Vegetarian Society defines a<br />

vegetarian as someone who does not eat the<br />

flesh of any animal, including the critters<br />

residing in our lakes, streams and coastal<br />

oceans. For the sake of simplicity, I often<br />

continue to refer to myself as a vegetarian.<br />

“I’m a pescatarian” elicits quizzical looks, head<br />

tilting and raised eyebrows.<br />

Over the years I’ve mastered the skill of<br />

discreetly removing pepperoni from slices<br />

of pizza at social events and avoiding bacon<br />

bits in Caesar salads. I suspect many people<br />

assume I’m a picky eater with a small appetite.<br />

With only two or three meatless dishes at<br />

most group gatherings, my plate often looks<br />

desolate. A hefty helping of large salad greens<br />

usually solves the problem. If a host should<br />

discover I’m a pescatarian, he or she is always<br />

accommodating and generous.<br />

Sometimes my choice of diet defies a way<br />

of life that someone has identified with<br />

since childhood. My husband eats meat and<br />

probably always will. Chicken legs, pork<br />

sausage and beef burgers are a regular part<br />

of his diet. We visited his friends in Alberta<br />

shortly after we started dating, where<br />

Chinook winds, frigid temperatures and<br />

meaty meals are as common as breathing,<br />

walking and sleeping. I wonder to this<br />

day if his friends initially considered an<br />

intervention when they heard his girlfriend<br />

did not eat beef. But the seafood chowder<br />

they prepared for lunch was absolutely divine.<br />

A pescatarian diet can be a conversation<br />

starter, stimulating interesting discussions.<br />

New acquaintances have asked, “Do you miss<br />

eating chicken?” and “If you don’t<br />

eat red meat, what do you eat?”<br />

— queries similar to those I<br />

asked myself in the first couple of<br />

years of saying goodbye to most types<br />

of meat dishes. Soon after answering<br />

their questions, we are sharing stories of what<br />

influences our food choices, which usually<br />

launches a delectable chat on a buffet of topics.<br />

Having an atypical diet can also cause<br />

confusion, as perfectly portrayed in one of<br />

my favourite scenes from the movie My Big<br />

Fat Greek Wedding. When the bride’s aunt,<br />

played by Andrea Martin, discovers the groom<br />

is a vegetarian, she exclaims to a room filled<br />

with guests, “What do you mean he don’t eat<br />

no meat!” All conversation suddenly ceases.<br />

A glass crashes to the floor. After a pregnant<br />

pause, she calmly says, “Oh, that’s okay, that’s<br />

okay, I make lamb, come.”<br />

A baked, meaty portobello mushroom is<br />

beginning to look as appetizing as a seared<br />

fillet of rainbow trout. Perhaps I will be a<br />

vegetarian by the end of the year, but until<br />

then, please pass the fish.<br />

REBECCA ST. PIERRE is a London-based freelance<br />

writer and photographer. She has been writing for<br />

publications, non-profits and small businesses since 2008.<br />

For more of her work, visit www.WordFlightAndLight.com.


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