Eatdrink Waterloo & Wellington #3 October/November 2018

Issue #W3 | October/November 2018 

eatdrink 

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine 

The 

Rich Uncle 

Tavern 

Ignite Restaurant 

Group 

FEATURING 

La Reina 

Stepping Up to the Plate in Guelph 

Conestoga College 

Transforming Together 

Ciders & Sours 

Seasonal Sensations 

Hammer Time! 

Hamilton: A Heaven for Food Lovers 

Serving Waterloo Region & Wellington County 

www.eatdrink.ca

2 |October/November 2018 

EXPLORING THE 

CHOCOLATE 

TRAIL BURNS 

CALORIES 

GOOD THING. 

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag 

introduces you to our world famous confectioners 

and bakers. For just $30 you’ll get to sample our 

Stratford Tourism Alliance at 47 Downie Street. 

visitstratford.ca

eatdrink 


eatdrinkmagazine 

@eatdrinkmag 

eatdrinkmag 

eatdrink.ca 

Think Global. Read Local. 

Publisher 

Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca 

Managing Editor Cecilia Buy – cbuy@eatdrink.ca 

Food Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca 

Editorial Consultant Andrew Coppolino 

Copy Editor Kym Wolfe 

Social Media Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca 

Advertising Sales Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca 

Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca 

Stacey McDonald – stacey@eatdrink.ca 

Terry-Lynn “TL” Sim – TL@eatdrink.ca 

Finances 

Ann Cormier – finance@eatdrink.ca 

Graphics 

Chris McDonell, Cecilia Buy 

Writers 

Darin Cook, Andrew Coppolino, 

Gary Killops, Bryan Lavery, 

George Macke, Rebecca St. Pierre, 

Amanda Stancati, Tracy Turlin 

Photographers Steve Grimes, Nick Lavery 

Telephone & Fax 519-434-8349 

Mailing Address 525 Huron Street, London ON N5Y 4J6 

Website 

City Media 

Printing 

Sportswood Printing 

OUR COVER 

Preparing gastropub 

farm-to-table fare, 

Culinary Director 

for Ignite Restaurant 

Group Brian McCourt 

(left) works with 

Executive Chef 

Benjamin Lillico 

of The Rich Uncle 

Tavern. Read the 

story by Bryan Lavery 

on page 8. 

© 2018 Eatdrink Inc. and the writers. 

All rights reserved. 

Reproduction or duplication of any material published in 

Eatdrink or on Eatdrink.ca is strictly prohibited without 

the written permis sion of the Publisher. Eatdrink has a regular 

printed circulation of 20,000 issues published six times annually. 

The views or opinions expressed in the information, content and/ 

or advertisements published in Eatdrink or online are solely 

those of the author(s) and do not necessarily represent those of 

the Publisher. The Publisher welcomes submissions but accepts no 

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Contents 

Issue #W3 | October/November 2018 

Publisher’s Notes 

Fall Festivities 

Oktoberfest and More 

By CHRIS McDONELL 

6 

Restaurants 

Audaciously Modern 

Ignite Restaurant Group 

& The Rich Uncle Tavern 

By BRYAN LAVERY 

8 

Stepping Up to the Plate 

La Reina Fills a Void in Guelph 

By BANDREW COPPOLINO 

14 

Road Trips 

Hammer Time! 


By AMANDA STANCATI 

18 

Culinary Education 


College’s School of Hospitality and 

Culinary Arts 

By ANDREW COPPOLINO 

23 

The BUZZ 

Culinary Community Notes 

26 

8 

18 

41 

14 

38 

Beer 


Ciders and Sours 

By GEORGE MACKE 

34 

Wine 

Pioneers of “Huron Shores” 

Alton Farms Estate Winery 

By GARY KILLOPS 

38 

Recipes 

From Farm to Table to Page 

Forest City Cookbook 

Review & Recipe Selections by TRACY TURLIN 

41 

Books 

The Great Immigrant Road Trip 

Buttermilk Graffiti 

Review by DARIN COOK 

45 

The Lighter Side 

Pescatarian Tales 

By REBECCA ST. PIERRE 

46 

62 

23 

45 

34

Eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine 

Welcome to a carefully designed collision 

of historic character and contemporary style. 

October/November 2018 | 5 

Tucked beneath our iconic hotel, 

TWH Social is Kitchener's 

destination for great food, 

community and conversation. 

20 Queen Street South, Kitchener 

519 745 4321 

Toll Free 1 800 265 8749 

walper.com


Publisher’s Notes 

Fall Festivities 

Oktoberfest and More 

By CHRIS McDONELL 


October means Oktoberfest for 

thousands of fans, and Eatdrink 

is excited to be an official Festival 

sponsor during the 50th anniversary 

celebrations in our first year 

in Waterloo Region & Wellington 

County. Celebrating culture 

through food and drink is what 

our magazine is all about, and 

we're proud to be involved with 

such an iconic event. Of course 

German food and ice cold beer are 

integral to Oktoberfest, but there is more. 

The culmination of a year's work and planning, 

the dozen Festhallen are hosting over 

40 events, with something for everyone. The 

festivities extend further into the community, 

beyond the parade, and into some of the 

region's best restaurants. 

OktoberLICIOUS brings the 

Bavarian spirit of gemuetlichkeit 

to local restaurants, with each 

participant offering a prix fixe 

menu with special beer pairings. 

Restaurants include Blackshop 

Restaurant, Concordia Club, The 

Easy Pour Wine Bar, Harmony 

Lunch, Lou Dawg’s Southern BBQ, The 

Rich Uncle Tavern (see our story on page 8), 

Rustico Kitchen & Bar, Solé Restaurant and 

Experience Authentic Bavarian Foods 

at these participating restaurants! 

Visit tasteofoktoberfest.oktoberfest.ca for a complete list of restaurants & menu information 

Participating Restaurants Include: 

• ABE ERB • BLACKSHOP • DEL ENOTECA • HARMONY LUNCH 

• JANET LYNN’S BISTRO • LOU DAWG’S • RUSTICO 

• PROOF KITCHEN & LOUNGE • SOLÈ • THE RICH UNCLE 

• TWH SOCIAL • WHITE RABBIT


Wine Bar, TWH Social Bar & Bistro (see their 

ad on page 5), and Weber Street Public House. 

The interesting twists on Oktoberfest fare 

embrace the theme while expanding it. How 

deliciously Canadian. Prost! 

German culture is not the only influence 

we celebrate in this issue. Andrew Coppolino 

takes us to the heart of downtown Guelph to 

a pleasingly authentic Mexican restaurant. La 

Reina opened a few months ago and is earning 

a regal reputation in The Royal City for an 

elevated experience of Mexican cuisine. ¡Salud! 

Amanda Stancati takes us on a culinary tour 

of her town, making a persuasive argument 

that Hamilton is “a heaven for food lovers.” 

From farmers’ market to a wide variety 

of restaurants, cafés and craft breweries, 

there are so many good reasons to think of 

Steeltown for your next road trip. Cheers! 

Bryan Lavery spent time with the creative 

team of Ignite Restaurant Group, who recently 

launched Graffiti Market in Kitchener’s 

Belmont Village. This new concept is located 

in Catalyst137, a massive manufacturing hub 

and technology accelerator. Readers may 

recognize the Ignite brand for the changeover 


of The Berlin into The Rich Uncle Tavern in 

downtown Kitchener. Bryan takes an in-depth 

look at that transformation, and it is inspired. 

Where will our next generation of culinary 

professionals come from? Conestoga College 

has made major investments in its School of 

Hospitality and Culinary Arts to help answer 

that question. Eatdrink is pleased to dedicate a 

story to creative local culinary education. 

Our beverage writers also present food for 

thought. Gary Killops visited Ontario’s latest 

emerging wine region for Eatdrink and profiles 

Alton Farms Estate Winery. “Huron Shores” 

spans the southern range of Ontario’s Lake 

Huron region. Long famed for its beautiful 

beaches and spectacular sunsets, this is now 

home to a number of wineries making good 

wine under uniquely challenging circumstances. 

Beer writer George Macke takes a 

seasonal look at the local explosion in apple 

cideries and craft beer sours. He has a dozen 

recommendations, so please pace yourself! 

CHRIS McDONELL founded Eatdrink in 2007. 

WHERE TASTE REIGNS SUPREME 

FINE INDIAN CUISINE 

Stratford 

10 George St. W. 

519-271-3271 

Kitchener 

725 Belmont Ave. W. 

519-208-2811 

rajaindiancuisine.ca



Restaurants 

Audaciously Modern 

The Rich Uncle Tavern, Graffiti Market and More: 

Drinking & Dining Concepts from Ignite Restaurant Group 

By BRYAN LAVERY 

The Ignite Restaurant Group (owners of The 

Rich Uncle Tavern, and the newly opened 

Graffiti Market, Red Circle Coffee and Red 

Circle Brewing) recently purchased the former 

Black Forest Inn in the small farming town of Conestogo. 

The Sawmill Road property is one of the oldest venue 

sites in the region. The group plans to launch Crowsfoot 

Ciderhouse early next year. The Ciderhouse will offer its 

own brand of cider, brewed in-house using apples from 

Martin’s Family Fruit Farm on Lobsinger Line. The menu 

will be modelled on the traditional European smokehouse 

with a contemporary twist, combining German food 

culture and southern smoke barbecue. The complex is 

expected to feature a country market as well as serving as 

the new headquarters for Ignite. 

Catalyst137 

Catalyst137 is a 475,000 square foot manufacturing hub 

and technology accelerator in Kitchener’s Belmont Village 

neighbourhood. Purpose-built for hardware engineering 

services and venture capital support in order to create the 

next generation of the Internet of Things (IoT) companies, 

Catalyst137 is the world's largest IoT manufacturing hub 

and is located in a repurposed tire warehouse. The Ignite 

Restaurant Group, which recently transformed the former 

Berlin Restaurant into The Rich Uncle Tavern in downtown 

Kitchener, realized that Catalyst137 was the ideal location 

for Graffiti Market, a new dining concept for the growing 

number of workers at Catalyst137. The Graffiti Market 

combines food, culture, and technology. It was conceived 

as a platform to foster innovation and nurture creativity 

through a unique synergy of emerging technology. 

In addition to the restaurant, Graffiti Market also sells 

groceries and runs a microbrewery under the banner of 

Red Circle Brewing Co. Led by co-founder and brewmaster 

Brett Croft, Red Circle is a brand steeped in Belmont 

Village’s lore and pays homage to the craftsmanship of 

Kitchener’s makers and artisans. The Market also includes 

a coffee roaster (the aptly named Red Circle Coffee Co.), 

and a bakery. 

Interactive Tables 

As a trail-blazing restaurant, retail market, microbrewery, 

Red Circle Coffee Company 

The dining area at Graffiti Market



coffee roaster and bakery, Graffiti 

Market provides customers with 

a cutting-edge dining experience. 

Ignite Restaurant Group partnered 

with Ukraine-based Kodisoft to 

provide interactive restaurant 

technology dining tables. Ordering 

is done with the touch of the 

tabletop icons. Tables feature 

technology that is 10 times faster 

than any tablet currently on the 

market. This is automated ordering 

from table to the cloud to the 

kitchen directly. The technology lets 

you view menus, surf social media, 

watch your meal or beverages being 

prepared, play various interactive 

Interactive tables by Kodisoft 

Ribbon-cutting at Graffiti Market 

games and pay your bill. With a touch, the interactive 

table can display photos and descriptions of the menu 

items, allowing you to check ingredients and even search 

recipes. You can order groceries or a six-pack of beer 

from the table while eating, then pay for and pick them 

up on the way out the door. Up to 100 seats are spread 

throughout the establishment, eliminating a defined 

restaurant space. The patio adds an additional 80 seats. 

Brian McCourt is Culinary Director of The 

Neighbourhood Restaurant Group. His menus at Graffiti 

Market feature small plates, larger plates, appetizers 

and mains, all meant to be sampled tablewide. Detroitstyle 

pizza, pasta house-made with local flour and eggs, 

and rotisserie chicken are signatures. At dinner there is 

“Spittin’ Chicken,” the option of Rosemary and Lemon 

or Diavolo-Style Rotisserie Chicken with seasonal 

vegetables, roasted local potatoes, dark chicken jus and 

chimichurri; “Steak is High” Dry Aged Striploin Steak, 

gouda frites, truffle aioli and onion jam; and Notorious 

P.I.G., shorthand for Porchetta, Roasted Garlic & Arugula 

Pesto, with tomato jam, pickled onions, smoked pepper 

aioli, and crackling on pain rustique. 

This is a 360-degree infotainment experience. Kodisoft 

is working closely with Ignite to add more interactive 

features to the restaurant over the coming months. 

There are plans to launch the technology in other 

markets later this year. 

Graffiti Market/Red Circle Brewing Co. 

137 Glasgow Street, Kitchener 

519-514-1820 | graffitimarket.ca 

daily 11 am–1 am 

Red Circle Coffee Co. 

137 Glasgow Street, Kitchener 

519-514-1820 | redcirclecoffee.ca 

monday–friday 7:30 am–6 pm; saturday 8 am–6 pm; 

sunday 9 am–6 pm 

The Rich Uncle Tavern 

Earlier this year The Ignite Restaurant Group 

transformed The Berlin into The Rich Uncle Tavern.



When the building was remodelled 

as The Berlin, Ryan Lloyd-Craig 

spent eight months refurbishing and 

reclaiming the Renaissance Revival 

style of the building to create an 85-seat 

street-level dining room with a long bar. 

The elevated open-kitchen that remains 

one of the focal points of the space. 

The new concept features a unique 

and inventive farm-to-table inspired 

menu, built on hearty live-fire fare and 

a shareable plate concept which pays 

tribute to the taverns and brasseries 

of bygone times. Defined by an 

unpretentious and wholesome approach 

to food and beverages, menus feature 

Canadian ingredients. The interior is 

stripped down to emphasize the frame 

and raw personality of the building. 

The room is sizeable and has a décor 

of exposed bricks and concrete with 

reclaimed slats and soaring 20-foot 

ceilings that give it a modern rural feel 

that makes for an inviting and appealing 

ambience. A staircase leads to the second 

floor, where there is a study and room 

for private dining and receptions. 

Chef Benjamin Lillico, formerly 

of The Berlin and Langdon Hall, 

has an ethical and sustainable 

culinary philosophy, caring about the 

provenance of food and the way it is 

grown or raised. Lillico was named to 

The Ontario Hostelry Institute’s Top 

30 Under 30 in 2015 and captained 

Junior Culinary Team Canada at the 

2016 Culinary Olympics in Erfurt, 

Germany. His menus are based on the 

availability of the best fresh and local 

ingredients from small, innovative 

farms and top-quality food producers 

in the surrounding area, like Soiled 

Reputation, Farm Craft Organics, 

Monforte Dairy, McIntosh Farms, 

Murray’s Farms, Organic Ocean, 

Ontario Harvest, Kolapore Springs 

and Eby Manor Dairy. A main feature 

of the kitchen is a stainless steel 

wood-fired grill with a surface made 

of V-shaped slates; the downward 

slant guides run-off fat and juices into 

The Rich Uncle Tavern is housed in a Renaissance 

Revival style building and has an 85-seat streetlevel 

dining room with a long bar..


Culinary Director, Ignite Restaurant Group, Brian 

McCourt (left) with Executive Chef Benjamin Lillico, of 

The Rich Uncle Tavern. The elevated open-kitchen is one 

of the focal points of the gastropub, offering dynamic 

farm-to-table fare. 

a basting pan rather than onto the coals. A 

crank wheel regulates the height of the grill 

surface over the coals, while a fire cage holds 

most of the heat behind the surface. 

The gastropub features shareable offerings 

such as local and in-house made charcuterie 

and a delectable seafood and shellfish board. 

There is also a selection of cheese. Handhelds 

include Lamb Burger, Croque Madame and 

Lobster Roll. One of the most delicious things 

on the menu is the roughly chopped Beef 

Tartare with Fermented Pepper Emulsion, Egg 

Yolk Jam and Fired Toast. There are Pork Rind 

Crisps, Truffle Frites, Oysters, Smoked Duck 

Breast and Pork Schnitzel with Hazelnut, 

Braised Red Cabbage, Parsley Root and Lemon 

and Thyme Sauce. There is Wild Sturgeon 

Caviar from Carters Point in New Brunswick. 

The sturgeon are from the Saint John River 

and are harvested in a limited quantity each 

summer season. This is the last wild caviar in 

the world, recommended by Ocean Wise and 

strictly monitored to ensure sustainability. 

Whether you’re savouring a flavourfocused 

bite at the bar, a craft beer or crafted 

cocktail in the upstairs study, or dining 

communally in one of the comfortable main 

floor booths, you will experience a convivial 

ambience, curated beverages and dynamic 

mouth-watering fare. 

The Rich Uncle Tavern 

45 King Street West, Kitchener 

519-208-8555 | richuncletavern.ca 

tuesday & wednesday 11 am – 1 pm 

thurs to saturday 11 am – 12 midnight 

sunday 10 am – 9 pm 

monday closed 

Eatdrink Food Editor BRYAN LAVERY brings years of 

experience in the restaurant and hospitality industry as 

a chef, restaurateur, and partner in the Lavery Culinary 

Group. Always on the lookout for the stories that Eatdrink 

should be telling, he helps shape the magazine both under 

his byline and behind the scenes.



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global tapas with local ingredients 

fresh cocktails 

Perfect for dinner before or snacks after the show 

Wednesday–Sunday from 5pm 

85 Downie St, Stratford 

(next to Avon Theatre) 

519.305.8585 

85Downie.com


“A fun place to shop 

for housewares and gifts!” 


celebrating 122 years in stratford 

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“Vegetable Garden” Pottery 

Tomatoes, artichokes and peppers illustrated 

in delicious detail, looking good enough 

to eat straight from the plate. 

WATSON’S 

CHELSEA BAZAAR 

84 Ontario St. Stratford 

watsonsofstratford.com 

519-273-1790



Restaurants 

Stepping Up to the Plate 

La Reina Fills a Void, in Guelph 


With 88 seats in the dining 

room and a dozen or so stools 

at a long bar, the owners of 

a new Mexican restaurant in 

Wellington County are hoping to turn those 

tables a couple of times a night as La Reina 

makes its mark. Opened at the end of June 

(in the location that was formerly Van Gogh’s 

Ear in the very heart of downtown Guelph), 

La Reina wants to add yet another layer to the 

burgeoning food and beverage scene in the city. 

While Guelph has 

food and dining 

variety, from fastcasual 

to finer 

dining as well 

as a good range 

of national and 

regional cuisines, 

there was a paucity 

of Mexican food 

that rises above fast-food 

quality. That, at least, is according to 

co-owner Bryan Steele and his Guelphbased 

partners Conrad Aikens, Justin 

Corstorphine and Derek Boudreau, all of 

whom have experience in food, hospitality 

and restaurant operations. Steele, formerly 

a chef, says keying in on authentic Mexican 

food was their first priority. 

“There are a lot of different cuisines in 

the city, but Mexican was one that we did 

not really have,” according to Steele. “Van 

Gogh’s, where La Reina is now, was a sort of 

Chilean-South American scene.” 

So, there’s a new queen — and there was 

even some palace intrigue and a rush to see 

who would ascend the throne. Word had 

been travelling through the local industry 

that several restaurateurs had the idea for a 

Mexican food-and-beverage operation. “We 

were first to the table, got the location and 

started developing the La Reina concept,” 

he says. 

Steele stresses that they are striving 

for authentic Mexican food. That is the 

purview of head chef Jose Matamoros, 

formerly a sous chef at El Catrin in Toronto’s 

Distillery Historic District, who brought 

with him chefs of Mexican background 

and representing different regions of the 

La Reina — "The Queen" — offers a Mexican dining and 

drinking experience in downtown Guelph.


country. The result is a collaborative regional 

influence on the menu. “We really wanted to 

fill that niche for Mexican at this level that 

you find in Toronto and Hamilton,” Steele 

says. The dishes and all their ingredients, as 

much as possible, are made in-house, and the 

food tries to be as authentically Mexican as 

possible. That comes from the people in the 

kitchen and what they bring to the cooking, 

he adds. 

The menu covers lunch, dinner and 

late night, with several dishes that serve 

well if you want to put together a small 

tasting. The classic pastor taco can sit 

alongside the heady, earthy taco marquesa 

with oyster mushrooms, charred Brussels 

sprouts and epazote (a Mexican and Central 

American herb that’s akin to oregano). The 

Head Chef Jose Matamoros and his staff present authentic 

Mexican cuisine with strong regional influences 

venison is part of a salad with avocado and a 

cotija vinaigrette. La Reina’s version of carne 

asada uses flatiron steak, hen-of-the-woods 

mushrooms and a marrow salsa. There are a 

number of inventive vegetarian dishes too: red 

rice with charred cauliflower, mushrooms and 

poblano salsa, and a vegetarian taco, to name a 

few. There are, of course, churros — delectably 

light, crisp and yet slightly creamy. 

Dirty Domingo is geared to students after 8 

p.m. on Sundays, with $5 specials for tacos, barrail 

tequila, margaritas, appetizers, guacamole, 

churros, and more. “The DJ starts at eight 

on Sundays, and we’re hoping to encourage 

students to visit.” 

As for beverages, it’s safe to say that cocktails 

are currently a major component of upscalecasual 

bars and restaurants, and at such a place 

as La Reina, tequila rules. But not in a basic 

Jose Cuervo way. “There are many recognizable 

brands, but there is also a large selection of 

tequilas that are hard to find elsewhere,” Steele 

says. “That’s the direction we want people to try. 

It’s our goal to help people find something new 

to savour and linger over — and which is of a 

much higher quality.” 

Brunch might include, above left, Huevos con Chorizo with 

charred asparagus and fingerling potatoes. For the sweet 

tooth, left, Capirotada with bread pudding, poached pears 

and vanilla yogurt.



The La Reina bar (above) is a popular late-night venue, with 

over 60 varieties of tequila on the well-stocked shelves (below) 

and a selection of classic and original crafted cocktails (left). 

The intersection of Wyndham and Macdonell 

on which La Reina sits is graced with eclectic 

and intricate architecture that defines the 

immediate sightlines and contributes to the 

history and sense of place that is Guelph. From 

several vantage points at La Reina, but especially 

from the 14-seat patio, you have a view of the 

1822 Petrie building, a former pharmacy with 

elaborate décor and one of the few remaining 

structures in Canada which has a stamped 

galvanized iron façade. The owners have drawn 

on that history as much as they can for their 

restaurant. An elaborate tin ceiling in the 

dining room, likely a product of late-Victorian 

or Edwardian interior design, was re-claimed 

from the Aker’s Furniture building, of Great 

War vintage, about three doors down in the 

same block. Builders and crafters used in the 

restaurant build-out came from the Guelph area 

and tables were made by a company in Elmira.


While the focus for the restaurant is on the 

food and dining, with the bar originally slated 

to be in support, Steele says the evolution 

of the space has seen a push to a late-night 

bar scene Friday to Sunday. “We’re open 

until 2 a.m.,” he says. “That started several 

weeks ago, and we want the 25-plus crowd 

to visit and be able to have a conversation 

and not have to yell an order at a bartender.” 

A private room with funky carved sliding 

doors can accommodate 24 people who must 

be willing to sit with the classic — and quite 

large — versions of the calaveras, fanciful 

and re-imagined human skulls that are 

illuminated. The room was already booked for 

Christmas parties in the late summer, Steele 

says. There is little doubt that La Reina might 

be a (likely crowded) venue to visit for “Los 

Dias de Los Muertos” between October 31 and 

November 2. 

Restaurants evolve, develop and, in fact, 

mature as they work through refining their 

menus, staffing and systems. In this, its 

earliest iteration, La Reina has an energetic 

yet quite comfortable feel, so it will be 

interesting to see how it grows as an upscale 


and unique-to-Guelph Mexican restaurant. 

The late-night component is growing, and 

Steele says that brunch will be available in the 

fall, along with a take-away service that is part 

of the plan to offer unique goods and services 

to the community. “We want to add to the 

culinary scene here,” Steele says, noting that 

they’ve had initial success. “People understand 

what we’re trying to do and the direction we 

are going.” 

La Reina 

10 Wyndham Street North, Guelph 

519-265-8226 

lareina519.com 

tuesday and wednesday: 11 a.m.–11 p.m. 

thursday: 11 a.m.–12 a.m. 

saturday and sunday: 11 a.m.–2 a.m. 

monday: closed 

ANDREW COPPOLINO is a Kitchener-based writer 

and broadcaster. He is publisher of Waterloo Region 

Eats (waterlooregioneats.com). Andrew also serves as a 

regional Eatdrink Editorial Consultant. 

Your Local, Fresh and Wholesome Gourmet Market. 

We are passionate about Food and Community!


Sponsored By 

Road Trips 


Hammer Time! 

Discover Hamilton — A Food Lover's Heaven 

By AMANDA STANCATI 

A 

visit to the city that produces 

Dempster’s bread, Maple Leaf 

meats, Karma Candy candy canes 

and other national food brands is 

sure to be a tasty one. A strong coffee culture, 

beloved local establishments, a growing 

number of craft breweries, and a steady 

stream of new and exciting restaurants makes 

Hamilton a worthy destination for roadtrippers. 

Looking for the best food and drink 

in town? Here are some must-tries. 

Hamilton Farmers’ Market 

The indoor Hamilton Farmers’ Market, 

located in the heart of downtown beside 

Jackson Square, has been operating since 

1837. Visit on a Tuesday, Thursday, Friday, or 

Saturday to check out the 60 vendors who 

offer everything from produce and prepared 

foods to flowers and crafts. Market highlights 

include Relay Coffee Roasters for small 

batch, organic and fair trade coffee (and a 

selection of Donut Monster donuts), Cake 

and Loaf for Instagram-worthy desserts, 

Pokeh, Canada’s first poke bar serving up the 

fresh Hawaiian dish, and Sensational Samosa 

for samosas, rotis, curries, and salads. 

City Dishes 

“Distinctly Hamilton” dishes come in all 

shapes and sizes. Here are some favourites. 

Hamilton Farmers’ Market 

While Hamilton is where Tim Hortons 

was founded, donut-lovers in the city know 

Grandad’s is the place to go. Donuts are 

baked daily and are larger than what you’ll 

typically find in a coffee shop. And they come 

in flavours you won’t find anywhere else (like 

walnut crunch and strawberry fritter!). 

Simple yet delicious, Roma Bakery’s “plain” 

pizza isn’t topped with cheese (crazy, right?), 

but the saucy bread has become the go-to for 

birthday parties and picnics in Hamilton. Grab 

a slab for the road at the flagship bakery (it’s 

also sold at other locations around the city) and 

you’ll understand what all the hype is about.



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Putting the finishing touch on S‘mores Cupcakes, 

at Cake & Loaf 

For a beachfront snack, Hamiltonians have 

been frequenting Hutch’s since 1946. The 

diner is beloved for its fish and chips, cones, 

milkshakes, and old-school decor. 

Craft Beer 

Hamilton’s growing craft beer scene includes 

a number of beautiful spaces around the city 

to visit for a cold one. In addition to its drink 

offerings, Merit Brewing offers a menu of 

shareables and unique sausage options to 

enjoy at the communal tables. 

Other notable craft breweries include 

Fairweather Brewing Company, 

Grain&Grit, Shawn & Ed Brewing Co., 

Rust City Brewery, and Collective Arts 

Brewing. Collective Arts’ award-winning 

beers are celebrated for their limited-edition 

artwork on the cans and labels — and make 

for a tasty souvenir to bring home! 

Aberdeen Tavern 

Capri Ristorante, opened in 1963, is known 

for traditional pizzas and pastas — both 

Hamilton mainstays. 

For something more trendy, Aberdeen 

Tavern belongs to the same family of the 

more recently opened The French and The 

Shawn & Ed Brewing Co., on Hatt Street 

Diplomat, all excellent choices for upscale 

food and drink in stylish environments. 

Ancaster Mill and Edgewater Manor 

are elegant options for special occasions. 

Merit Brewing 

Notable Restaurants 

Hamilton restaurants serve cuisine from 

around the globe. Black Forest Inn has 

been a landmark since 1967, serving hearty 

Bavarian cuisine including a famous schnitzel 

selection. For large Italian-style portions, 

Ancaster Mill


A Group of Certified B Corp Restaurants 

Mezcal TNT 

Built from limestone, Ancaster Mill is set 

beside a waterfall offering pretty views, while 

Edgewater Manor serves steak and seafood 

beside Lake Ontario. 

James Street 

James Street is one of the Hamilton’s hippest 

neighbourhoods, and has a high concentration 

of dining options. To the north is Wild 

Orchid for flavourful seafood, and Born 

and Raised for wood-oven pizza and a raw 

bar. To the south you’ll find Mezcal TNT 

for tacos and tequila and Radius for fine 

dining and a two-level patio — and loads of 

choices in between. This is a very walkable 

neighbourhood so get out and enjoy! 

Leave room for dessert from Chocolat on 

James or Rush Sugar Bar. Coffee options 

include Mulberry Coffeehouse and Saint 

James Espresso Bar and Eatery. 

our Roots, foods, wines + brews 

37 Quebec Street, Downtown Guelph 

519-821-9271 | Miijidaa.ca 

1388 Gordon Street, South Guelph 

519-265-9007 | Borealisgrille.ca 

176 Woolwich Ave, Downtown Guelph 

519-836-2875 | thewoolypub.ca 

NàRoma 

Pizzeria 

294 Woolwich St., Downtown Guelph 

parkgrocery.ca



Locke Street 

From NàRoma Pizzeria’s fusion of Naples and 

Roman-style pizzas to Bread Bar’s from-scratch 

breads, pizzas, soups and salads, Locke Street packs 

big flavour along a relatively short strip. For casual 

fine dining, Brux House and Mattson & Co both 

offer quality food and cocktails. For something 

sweet to round out your trip, Amo Gelato Caffe 

makes gelato in-house! 

Dundas 

The quaint town of Dundas is home to the awardwinning 

fine dining restaurant, Quatrefoil, the 

pretty Detour Cafe for a coffee and bite to eat, and 

Beanermunky Chocolates for sweet confections. 

Winona 

Located in Hamilton towards Niagara Falls is a little 

community called Winona, home to Memphis Fire 

BBQ, a must-visit for meat-lovers. This Southernstyle 

BBQ joint makes mouth-watering burgers, 

beef brisket, pulled pork, buttermilk chicken, and 

baby back ribs. 

Also in the neighbourhood is Puddicombe Estate 

Farms & Winery. Pick up hand-baked pies or awardwinning 

wines at this 200-year-old family fruit farm. 

Tasty Souvenirs 

On your way out of the city, pick up some culinary 

souvenirs to enjoy at home. 

Nardini Specialties and Denninger’s Foods 

of the World have some of the best European-style 

sausages and meats. Lasagna-lovers can pick up 

some Mama Yolanda’s gourmet lasagna at Nardini. 

For the sweet tooth, Bennett’s Apples makes 

scrumptious apple pie, turnovers, and other baked 

goods at its market. Sam’s Queenston Bakery is 

known for the cannoli, made in a nut-free facility, 

along with other Italian treats like mini tiramisu 

and rum cakes. 

I am sure your visit to Hamilton will be a delicious 

one! 

Other Notable Spots 

The Other Bird is a Hamilton-based hospitality group 

offering unique culinary experiences, combining 

Executive Chef Matt Kershaw's big-flavour cooking with 

CEO Erin Dunham's passion for extraordinary service. 

Their motto: “And we just want to satisfy you.” Check out 

chef-driven and carnivore-focused Rapscallion Rogue 

Eatery, Two Black Sheep, or playful taco bar The Mule in 

Hamilton, Burro in Burlington (serving everything from 

ahi tuna ceviche to fish tacos), the Woolf & Wilde at 

the boutique Arlington Hotel in Paris ON and the swanky 

cocktail-focused Hunter & Co. in London ON. — Eds. 

From the top down: NàRoma Pizza, Detour Cafe in 

Dundas, Memphis Fire BBQ in Winona, and Sam’s 

Queenstown Bakery. 

AMANDA STANCATI is a Hamilton-based 

writer who loves to eat her way through different 

cities around the world. Follow her on 

Twitter @amandastancati.



Culinary Education 


Conestoga College’s School of Hospitality and Culinary Arts 


Let’s work from the assumption that 

a strong culinary scene in any region 

requires well-trained chefs working 

inventive menus in their restaurants 

and serving a customer base that is engaged 

with and cares about cooking and freshly 

made food. To that, you need to add culinary 

instruction that connects with both of these 

other stakeholders. 

In good part, Keith Muller has been tasked 

with the latter element — and he is clearly 

in his element as a program builder. Muller 

is the Chair of Conestoga College’s School of 

Hospitality and Culinary Arts. He’s been a 

good part of the supervision of the 150,000 

square-foot expansion, which wrapped around 

and expanded the existing Conestoga campus 

at 108 University Avenue in Waterloo. The 

build-out of the state-of-the-art facility began 

in early 2017, and now includes new food 

and beverage programs and a new Institute 

for Culinary and Hospitality Management. 

Muller, formerly of George Brown College’s 

culinary program (for 12 years) and of Red 

River College in Winnipeg, says that the new 

facility and its people will have a significant 

impact on the growth and sustainability of 

Waterloo Region’s 

hospitality industry. 

“With our instructors 

and these 

state-ofthe-art 

facilities that we have added, Conestoga 

College has increased enrollment and can offer 

a number of new programs that have not been 

offered here or in the region before. It’s a new 

age of culinary instruction,” Muller says. 

Students began filling the classrooms and 

labs a few weeks ago, and are being introduced 

to new equipment and teaching facilities in 

far more and far better space. That means an 

improved learning environment, but also an 

opportunity for Conestoga to engage with 

the community-at-large in a specialized event 

space that is open to the general public, and 

through continuing and part-time education, 

according to Muller. That will certainly help 

to continue the building of the three-pronged 

platform of a strong culinary environment. 

The investors were three-fold. There has 

been a federal-provincial investment of 

about $16 million ($14 million came from the 

federal government and $1.8 million from 

the province). The College 

and community contributed 

nearly $28 million, which 

makes for a total investment 

of $43.5 million. Muller 

points out that the stateof-the-art 

facilities will help 

continue Waterloo Region’s 

bid to become a top food 

destination. “We’ll supply 

qualified and trained cooks 

Students work in the new stateof-the-art 

facilities at Conestoga 

College's Institute for Culinary and 

Hospitality Management


to the industry here and help develop the 

food and beverage scene locally. To do that 

successfully, it’s important to bring together 

the farming community, food purveyors of 

all sorts, and the general public,” he says. 

To help with the program, Muller, who 

has trained as a chef, has experience as a 

In addition to creating an improved learning 

environment, Conestoga can also offer the community 

a specialized event space and more opportunities for 

continuing and part-time education 

restaurateur and 

has run culinary 

programs at 

a number of 

institutions, has 

appointed Amédé 

Lamarche as 

Coordinator of 

Culinary Programs. 

Lamarche, who was 

a faculty member 

at George Brown 

for seven years, 

is expert with 

artisan breads, 

chocolate and 

sugar confections 

and is a strong 

advocate for local 

and sustainable 

cuisine. He’s lived 

in several Canadian 

cities and worked 

in restaurants in 

Stratford, Toronto, 

Ottawa, Whistler 

and Vancouver. 

A certified Red 

Seal chef and 

Red Seal baker, 

Lamarche trained 

at Chicago’s French 

Pastry School, The 

Chocolate Academy 

in Montreal and 

Ecole Nationale 

Supérieure de 

la Pâtisserie in 

Yssingeaux, France; 

he cooked at The 

Church in Stratford 

for a decade. 

For Lamarche, 

good cooking is 

about simple and 

straightforward 

ingredients, and 

about sharing a 

passion for food. 


From top to bottom: Keith 

Muller (Chair), Amédé Lamarche 

(Coordinator of Culinary 

Programs), Brad Lomanto 

(Executive Chef), Sabine 

Heinrich-Kumar (Baking and 

Pastry Arts) 

“It’s important to create a connection 

between fresh ingredients and the food that 

you serve people, whether family or restaurant 

guests,” Lamarche says. “It’s about being 

natural and real.” 

Both Muller and Lamarche are excited about 

returning the craft of culinary instruction


to some of the foundational elements that 

are part of Waterloo Region history. “Two 

major components will be butchery and 

charcuterie, which harken to this area’s 

rich history and which are hugely popular 

movements of crafted food currently at 

restaurants,” Muller says, adding that the 

College will also be adding a program in 

artisanal cheese making. “That’s another 

age-old craft we’re looking forward to seeing 

grow here and in outlying regions.” Add 

to all of that the fact that a new and as yet 

unnamed restaurant will be opening at the 

campus. Newly appointed Corporate Chef 

Brad Lomanto, formerly of the Cambridge 

Mill, will oversee the restaurant and the 

food and beverage operations at the College. 

“One of Chef Lomanto’s most important jobs 

will be to ensure a consistency in training 

within the restaurant,” Muller notes. As for 

the restaurant itself, it is student-driven and 

“primarily on curriculum but also on the skills 

they are learning. It will be modern, upscalecasual 

and urban and an opportunity for new 

products and events including wine-maker, 

brew-master and cheese-maker dinners,” 

he says. Muller has also recently hired a 

notable culinary professional to head up the 

re-vamped baking and pastry arts program 

for Conestoga. “Sabine Heinrich-Kumar will 

be in charge of this program,” he says, “and 

to do it she brings a wealth of talent and 

international experience to the position.” 

Heinrich-Kumar has taught at both George 

Brown and Centennial College and has worked 

and trained at restaurants and hotels in 

Switzerland, Vienna, London and Dubai. 

A re-imagined culinary educational 

institution in Waterloo Region — like the 

Stratford Chefs School, Niagara College or 

George Brown — is a key piece of the puzzle 


within the agrarian and farming base that 

characterizes Waterloo Region, says Muller. 

“It’s a region that is growing quickly, but it 

remains true to its rich and historic farming 

and food heritage. More and more, we see 

good food and great restaurants opening up 

with that in the background. ” 

ANDREW COPPOLINO is a Kitchener-based writer 

and broadcaster. He is publisher of Waterloo Region 

Eats (waterlooregioneats.com). Andrew also serves as a 

regional Eatdrink Editorial Consultant. 

something 

for 

EVERYONE 

Cambridge Farmers’ 

Market 

Circa 1830 

Saturday Year Round 

7:00am - 1:00pm 

www.cambridgefarmersmarket.ca 

DINNER SERIES 

October-March 

Calendar, menus and 

reservations online 

StratfordChefsSchool 

@StratfordChef 

OPEN KITCHEN 

Hands-on classes for the 

dedicated home cook. 

Registration online 

stratfordchef.com



The BUZZ 

Culinary Community Notes 

New and Notable 

Compiled by ANDREW COPPOLINO, BRYAN LAVERY and THE EDITORS 

This column consists of regional culinary 

news, including a large scoop of local 

news and inside information. There 

is no charge to be included here, and 

we encourage chefs, restaurateurs, brewers, 

fundraisers, culinary artisans, farmers — and 

everyone else with information to share — to send 

us details. Short and sweet! We want to include as 

many items as possible. See the end of this column 

for contact details. 

Kitchener 

After a bit of a wait running the gauntlet of 

bureaucratic requirements, tiki bar The Grand 

Surf Lounge is open for business on Ontario 

Street, south of Charles and across from the 

transit terminal. The small venue is sister venue 

to Grand Trunk Saloon, mere metres away. Both 

cocktails and food sometimes arrive in bowls. 

That could be the Flaming Crab Rangoon Bowl 

or Octopus Bowl to eat and the Scorpion Bowl or 

Blue Hawaii bowl cocktails to share. Try the “Three 

Dots and a Dash” cocktail — pretty darn good. 

Needless to say, there’s a lot of rum here. facebook. 

com/pages/category/Bar/The-Grand-Surf- 

Lounge-2164155130472121 

The Grill House at 825 Weber Street East at 

Montgomery in Kitchener has re-opened and 

re-branded with the tagline “Fresh Food. Fast.” 

Chef and owner Bruce Sutherland, Red Sealaccredited, 

has been in the restaurant and catering 

business for over 30 years. It’s a venue for soup 

and sandwich fare, a couple of breakfasts, some 

fresh baking — cinnamon buns and danishes, 

for instance — and Philly cheese steak and other 

lunches with cevapi, as a nod to the restaurant’s 

previous iteration serving eastern European 

dishes.facebook.com/pages/category/Restaurant/ 

Grill-House-245069769648290 

We reported earlier that Wooden Boat Food 

Company was about to open — and so it has, at 

1-20 Hurst Avenue in the Mill-Courtland area 

of the city near the Iron Horse Trail. Owner and 

chef Thompson Tran describes it as a “ghost 

kitchen” that will be collaborating with other 

food operations, such as the popular Nate and 

Hugo Confections, and a keto food producer. 

Striving to be a sustainable operation in all 

aspects, including building materials, vegan food 

options will be 100 percent vegan with dedicated 

cooking equipment and surfaces. Friday and 

Saturday nights will feature Vietnamese street 

foods that can be purchased for take-away. 

woodenboatfoodcompany.com 

Celebrating three years serving locally-inspired 

dishes, Fork and Cork Grill continues to offer 

wine and special dinner events such as a toast 

to Ontario’s “cool climate cuisine” at the end of 

October. Executive chef Eric Neaves explains the 

new wine-making initiative: “It’s a really great 

direction with a very low-intervention, naturally 

fermented style. It’s a growing trend in Niagara, 

and one that I think produces wines with more 

complexity,” according to Neaves. “I also believe it 

will help us earn more of a distinct reputation on 

the world wine map. When you use natural yeasts 

instead of commercial, selected yeasts, you get a 

wine that’s truly representative of Ontario’s terroir.” 

Fork and Cork is also offering fun one-off events 

during the fall such as “Smoketoberfest” (October 

2-14) and “Taste of Fall” (October 18–November 11). 

forkandcorkgrill.com 

You can support the work of The Working Centre 

while enjoying a good cup of coffee and some 

home-made food by visiting this new addition to 

the block between Scott and Eby streets along 

King Street East in downtown. Located at 256 King 

Street, Fresh Ground Café serves coffee (including 

Aeropress) and “light-eating” plant-based foods, 

such as salads, flatbreads, a whole-grain veggie 

burger, quinoa burger, black bean burger, and The 

Ferment: hummus on sourdough and veg. And, 

rarely seen in these parts, a galette. facebook.com/ 

freshgroundtwc

D in 

anada 


2018 marks the 50th anniversary of Kitchener 

Waterloo Oktoberfest. Since 1969 K-W Oktoberfest 

has developed its own traditions, combining the 

largest Bavarian festival in North America with 

the greatest Thanksgiving Day Parade in Canada. 

Thousands of visitors celebrate annually in the 

Festhallen and by attending one or more of 40 

family and cultural events. The local economy is 

stimulated through the celebration of this spirit 

of Gemuetlichkeit, and over 70 charities and notfor-profit 

organizations raise funds to support the 

high quality of life enjoyed in Kitchener-Waterloo. 

Tickets for the event (October 5–13) are on sale 

now. oktoberfest.ca 

OktoberLICIOUS brings the spirit of Gemuetlichkeit 

to local participating restaurants and provides 

a great opportunity to explore the outstanding 

culinary offerings in Waterloo Region. Participating 

restaurants add an OktoberLICIOUS prix fixe menu 

with special beer pairings to their menu for a 

three-week period. This allows each restaurant to 

participate in the Kitchener-Waterloo Oktoberfest 

Festival by introducing German delicacies with 

a Bavarian twist to their customers, at a special 

price. Some of the past participating restaurants 

are Rustico Kitchen & Bar, Harmony Lunch, 

The Boathouse, Sole’ Restaurant and Wine Bar, 

Marbles Restaurant and TWH Social Bar & Bistro. 

oktoberlicious.oktoberfest.ca 

Taps and Apps is Big Brothers Big Sisters of 

Waterloo Region’s signature event catered towards 

young professionals. Join other like-minded 

individuals with an interest in tasty food, craft beer, 

and networking. Grab a friend and come out to enjoy 

10 local restaurants, 10 local craft breweries, and live 

music at one of the region’s most iconic landmarks 

— The Walper Hotel — all while supporting local 

youth in need of mentorship. What better way to 

celebrate our community than by supporting the 


children who grow up here? #MeetKW at Taps and 

Apps! bbbswr.org/taps-and-apps 

Bao Sandwich Bar is one of those places not many 

people know about, but is always packed. Located 

in the heart of University of Waterloo and Wilfrid 

Laurier University district, it’s a bit hard to find 

since it’s on the ground floor of a condo building in 

the student district. The bao sandwiches and kimchi 

poutine make it worth the hunt. Bao specializes in 

Vietnamese subs (Bánh mì) and Taiwanese steamed 

buns (Gua Bao). baosandwichbar.com 

growers & creators of fine lavender products 

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45-acre horse farm just outside of Sparta 

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47589 Sparta Line, Sparta 

buds@steedandcompany.com 

Open Wed–Sat 10-5; Sun 12–4 

Mother’s Day to Dec. 19 

PLUS June–Labour Day: Tues 10-5 

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Visit Our Website 

• Online Store 

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ars! 

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Loloan Lobby Bar in uptown Waterloo is helmed 

by the owners of Jane Bond and Bhima's Warung 

(a local food institution and considered by many 

to be one of Waterloo’s best restaurants). The food 

and drinks are incredible, but the architecture and 

unique design also make this restaurant special. 

You feel like you are in a beautiful Thailand resort. 

loloanlobbybar.com 

The Rich Uncle Tavern got its name from a cigar 

that used to be manufactured in and around the 

tavern’s current location, back in the late 1800s to 

early 1900s. The Ignite Restaurant Group looked 

back to find inspiration for the Tavern’s name. 

Joseph Winterhalt, a local cigar manufacturer in 

Kitchener, then known as the City of Berlin, created 

the “Rich Uncle” line of cigars and boasted they 

were “10 cents and worth it.” richuncletavern.ca 

The name Graffiti was inspired by the Led Zeppelin 

album, Physical Graffiti, and allows the Ignite 

Restaurant Group to share their love for art and 

hip hop. The food philosophy at Graffiti Market is 

to create local comfort food with unique variations, 

drawing inspiration from Tuscany to Detroit, 

and the surrounding rural areas in Kitchener. 

graffitimarket.ca 


Swine and Vine, owned by Jill and Mica Sadler, 

was conceived to create a socially vibrant dining 

experience where people could come together, 

enjoy great beer and wine, and share charcuterie 

and cheese boards and other locally-sourced 

food. The premises at 295 Lancaster Street West 

in Kitchener were previously occupied by Public 

Kitchen & Bar, which has moved a few blocks to 

Victoria Street. swineandvine.ca 

Waterloo Brewing can lay claim not only to being 

Ontario’s first craft brewer but also its largest. The 

recipe uses fresh, handmade, simple ingredients 

and hasn’t changed since 1984. As the thirst for 

exceptional craft beers has spread, these brewers 

have kept their heads down and stayed true to 

what they believe are deeply shared K-W values of 

quality, craftsmanship and a spirit of innovation. 

waterloobrewing.com 

Waterloo 

If Indiegogo has anything to say about it, Waterloo 

will soon have a zero-waste bulk grocery store at 

110 King Street South. Simply named Zero Waste 

Bulk, the store will partner with local producers 

and sell bulk foods, produce, fresh breads, bulk 

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liquids such as cooking oils, as well as cookies, 

brownies and Nanaimo bars. zerowastebulk.com 

Look for a major move by the Fat Sparrow Group 

that will take it outside of the borders of the City of 

Waterloo for the first time, according to co-owner 

Nick Benninger. With Marbles, Taco Farm, Uptown 

21 and Harmony Lunch under the Fat Sparrow 

Umbrella, and mere blocks away from each other, 

Benninger says that he’s excited to take this next 

step beyond Waterloo. He can’t say much more as 

the deal is pending. fatsparrowgroup.com 

The folks at Show & Tell Coffee on Ontario Street 

in downtown Kitchener have opened Brch Social 

(pronounced “birch”) at 1 King Street North at Erb 

Street in downtown Waterloo. The store promises 

“coffee, cocktails and good company” (or is that 

cmpny?). brch.ca 

Also now open in the heart of Waterloo’s centre core 

at 75 King Street South is Anchor Bar (purportedly 

the epicentre of Buffalo chicken wings in downtown 

Buffalo, New York, in the mid-1960s). Anchor Bar 

Waterloo opened in late August and is located 

in Waterloo Town Square in the space that was 

formerly Carl Jr.’s, off Willis Way. The Anchor 

management report that they expect to sell in the 

neighbourhood of 2,500-3,000 chicken wings per 

day. That’s a lot of chickens. anchorbarcanada. 

com/waterloo 

Now open near University of Waterloo is Pilaf 

Restaurant — no doubt it serves some rice with 

a name like that. Dishes are Indian and Pakistani. 

Like so many new restaurants in the area, it is based 

on the business model of building a multi-storey 

apartment or condo complex and leasing the 

ground floor units to restaurants. (The remaining 

floors are for students.) You certainly can’t knock 

that arrangement, though, because it means many 


small outdoor malls of unique restaurants for us to 

sample. pilafrestaurant.ca 

Long a sushi and sashimi favourite in the downtown 

core of Waterloo, Watami closed up shop in the 

summer of 2016. There was much sadness in the 

city. But then, there was rejoicing! To a general 

sense of excitement, Watami has re-opened at 

14 King Street North in the former Hot Wheels 

location. For many, the restaurant is among the 

top venues for sushi and sashimi — and it is not an 

AYCE. The former location had a terrific ramen that 

Farm to table award winning 

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Saturday 9am–4pm 

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www.stonetowncheese.com 

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was served on Sunday. Let’s hope that holds true at 

the new location, too. facebook.com/king15north/ 

Congratulations to Bailey’s Local Foods, 

celebrating its tenth year in Waterloo. Bailey’s is an 

online farmers’ market where you order what you 

want and exactly how much from a wide selection of 

farmers and producers within a 100-mile radius of 

Waterloo Region. It’s a year-round service too. You 

can get more information at baileyslocalfoods.com. 

Cambridge 

Cambridge-based B Hospitality, a full-service 

hospitality group, has grown rapidly in Waterloo 

Region. It is the new food and beverage provider 

for Lot 42, a very cool and very large multi-faceted 

space on Ardelt Avenue. They’ve built a state-ofthe-art 

catering kitchen and a 30-seat chef’s table. 

“It’s a unique design and multi-use environment,” 

according to executive chef Aaron Clyne. “It gives 

us more than enough support for catering and our 

food trucks.” The area for the chef’s table features 

a wood-fired grill. There’s a special temperaturecontrolled 

wine cellar and facilities for meat 

production, dry-aging and charcuterie. “It’s a 

humidity- and temperature-controlled unit with 

air purification. We’ll be able to age charcuterie 

and cheeses for longer periods of time,” Clyne says. 

The company has partnered with a number of local 

farms and will be able to do whole-animal butchery 

in the new facility. bhospitality.ca 

Guelph & Wellington County 

For more than 60 years, Reids of Cambridge has 

been producing chocolates, nuts, candies and other 

confections on Ainslie Street in downtown Galt. 

The long-standing sweet shop is coming to Guelph 

in October. It will take over the Nutty Chocolatier 

space in the Old Quebec Street Shoppes following a 

renovation. reidchocolates.com/ 

The sleek and modern 39 Carden Street is inspired 

by the French bistro style, but is not a strictly a 

French restaurant. Chef features cuisine with a 

contemporary twist, prepared fresh daily using 

local ingredients. Snack, weekend brunch, lunch 

and dinner items are featured on the chalkboard 

menu. 39cardenstreet.com 

Eric Chevalier of Eric the Baker on Carden Street 

comes from a long line of Basque pastry chefs. 

His great-great-great-great-grandmother was the 

first woman Cordon Bleu chef at the legendary Le 

Grande Hotel des Paris. He sells a spectacular line 

of French pastries. 


The Neighbourhood Group will be launching 

their annual Harvest Food Festival at all their 

restaurants, where they will be showcasing local 

farmers with a portion of sales going to local food 

assistance programs. This network of restaurants 

includes The Wooly, Borealis Grillehouse & Bar 

(locations in both Guelph and Kitchener), and 

Miijidaa Cafe + Bistro. The Harvest Food Festival 

runs from Tuesday, Oct 16th to Sunday, Oct 28, 2018. 

www.neighbourhoodgroup.com/restaurants 

Andrew and Kim Wheeler want TOMME Cheese 

Shop “to be the cheese shop a food-centric town 

like Guelph deserves.” Located off Market Square 

on Carden Street, they retail an impressive range 

of artisanal Canadian and international cheeses, 

along with complimentary foods like olives, salami, 

spreads and crackers, cheese panini at lunchtime, 

and accessories. 

Trotters Butcher Shop and Charcuterie on Cork 

Street in downtown Guelph procures quality 

local meat from small farms in the Wellington 

Region. Nose to tail items are made in-house and 

include smoked, cured and fresh meats. Educating 

customers about the sources, variety and quality of 

the product line is almost as important to Guelph 

butcher Brett MacDonald as retailing his delectable 

products. trottersbutchershop.com 

Guelph has stunning architecture, a strong cultural 

fabric and a rich historical background. Taste 

Detours highlights Guelph’s history by mapping it 

from one culinary experience to the next, offering 

an authentic taste of place. Lynn Broughton, 

founder of Taste Detours (tastedetours.ca) is a 

certified Food Tour Professional. Broughton has 

just launched EatStreet: A Moveable Brunch. 

This Saturday morning tour starts at the Guelph 

Farmers’ Market for a deep dive into Guelph’s 

agricultural roots. You’ll receive a sample from a 

few different market vendors and then head off to 

several stops in downtown Guelph. A bit of sweet, 

some savoury, a World of Taste, and much fun in 

between. Businesses on the tour include Guelph 

Farmers’ Market (Taste of Craft, Rodolfo’s Rebel 

Foods and Fengs Dumplings), TOMME Cheese 

Shop, Crafty Ramen, The Olive Experience, Killer 

Cupcakes Goremet and Guelph Caribbean Cuisine. 

www.tastedetours.ca/the-tours/eatstreet-amoveable-brunch 

Guelph did well recently at the 2018 Ontario 

Brewing Awards. Wellington Brewery’s golds 

included Country Dark Ale and Rhubarb Saison, 

while Royal City Brewing Co. won gold for a


refreshing Oktoberfest (they also won bronze at 

CBAC for the Belgian-style Dubbel). Guelph has 

some of the best beer names too. Double Trouble 

Brewing Co. has Hops & Robbers IPA and Grow 

a Pear cider, while Brothers Brewing Company 

makes Tropic Thunder Pale Ale and Space Beer. 

ontariobrewingawards.com 

Guelph’s Wellington Brewery is Canada’s oldest 

independently owned microbrewery. The brewers 

craft award-winning beers in small batches using 

the freshest all-natural ingredients. Since 1985 

they’ve been a pioneer in the craft brewing scene 

by producing traditional style ales as well as 

experimenting with new recipes as part of their 

Welly One-Off Series. They won five gold and one 

silver awards at the Ontario Brewing Awards. 

wellingtonbrewery.ca 

Opening at end of October or in early November — 

fingers crossed — Park Grocery will be Guelph’s 

newest restaurant and more. It’s a multi-faceted 

business and one with substantial history. “It’s 

a neighbourhood deli offering roasted chicken, 

sandwiches, salads and soups all made from 

scratch,” says Court Desautels, Group Leader and 

CEO of Neighbourhood Group of Companies (NGC). 

But it will also be a bar, offering local beers, ciders 

and wine, with a barista-driven café featuring 

organic fair-trade coffee and teas alongside artisan 

sodas and milkshakes. The first business in the 

location was called Park Grocery, which opened 

about 1890. Desautels says it housed a variety of 

grocers until 1943 when it became a tire shop. In 

1947 it became a grocers again, and then Guelph 

Delicatessen, before finally becoming With the 

Grain restaurant. “With an eye to a sustainable 

future, Park Grocery will support a living wage and 

many local environmental and social initiatives. 

When you consider that this very location has been 

serving authentic, great tasting meals since 1890, 

WINE TASTINGS, EVENTS, 

TOURS, OUTDOOR 

PATIO, WOOD-FIRED 

PIZZA OVEN 

7 

LAKE 

HURON 

SARNIA 

21 


it’s no surprise that this newest iteration of the past 

is so forward thinking,” Desautels says. 

The Townships & Beyond 

Vibrant Farms is growing, with more reach across 

Ontario. The Baden-based organic and pastureraised 

farm has partnered with another farm and 

has expanded home delivery and a more robust 

online store as well as greater reach across Ontario 

by virtue of a partnership with Erb Transport. 

vibrantfarms.com 

Alton Farms 

EST A TE WINERY 

New look 

...same great wines! 

Grand 

Bend 

Forest 

Aberarder Line 

21 

402 

London 

77 km 

Available at the winery, select LCBOs & farmers’ markets 

5547 Aberarder Line, Plympton-Wyoming 

519-899-2479 • altonfarmsestatewinery.com 

Brunch 

11am–3pm 

Saturdays 

– Build Your 

Own Caesars 

& Brunch 

Mimosas! 

Dinner 

Catering 

DINNER 

226.476.4418 

295 Lancaster St. W. 

Kitchener 

swineandvine.ca


In its first appearance outside the GTA, Pickle Barrel 

is opening two new restaurants in Waterloo Region: 

one in Cambridge in the former Milestones on 

Hespeler Road (opening at the end of October), and 

one in the former Spring Rolls in Conestoga Mall, 

Waterloo (scheduled to open in early February). 

Bradshaws Christmas Open House: Friday, 

November 9, 5:00 pm – 8:00 pm. Bring along a 

few of your friends for a fun night out and the 

first look at Bradshaws in all its Christmas glory. 

There will be delicious food samplings, hot new 

product demos, an assortment of holiday giftware, 

kitchenware and entertaining items. Free gift with 

purchase and enter to win door prizes. 

Bradshaws High Tea at Revival House will be held 

Sunday, November 25. visitstratford.ca/member/ 

Bradshaws 

A Victorian Christmas in Downtown Stratford & 

Outdoor Christmas Market: Sunday, November 25. 

Visit Stratford’s historic downtown for the Outdoor 

Christmas Market in Stratford’s Market Square. 

Enjoy a local art show, crafts for kids and meet 

Santa. Shop vendor stalls for holiday foods, crafts 

and gifts. Sip hot cocoa, listen to costumed carolers 

singing seasonal tunes and embrace the character 

and charm of Christmas in Stratford. visitstratford.ca 

Stratford Christmas Trail: From November 1 to 

December 20 capture the spirit of giving and the 

joy of checking items off that list on Stratford’s 

Christmas Trail. You’ll discover unique and 

individual ideas as you stroll the festive streets, 

exchanging six vouchers at your choice of 27 stops. 

visitstratford.ca/christmastrail 

Appetite for Words: Stratford Chefs School and 

Stratford Writers Festival takes place October 27 

and 28, featuring a Literary Dinner with Jackie Kai 

Ellis at Stratford Chefs School on October 27 and 

a Literary Brunch with Anna Olsen, at the Revival 

House on October 28. stratfordwritersfestival.com/ 

literary-events/appetite-for-words-festival/ 

Stratford's Olive Your Favourites let us know that 

new southern hemisphere extra virgin olive oils 

(EVOO) have arrived from Chile and South Africa. The 

customer-favourite Hojiblanca EVOO from Australia 

is due at any moment. oliveyourfavourites.com 

Milky Whey offers Cheese Pairings starting October 

27. Explore pairings of Seasonal Beer and Cheese 

(October 27), Canadian Cheese and Wine (Nov 10), 

Who’s Got Your Goat with Pinots on the side (Nov 


24) and Deconstructing a holiday charcuterie board 

workshop (Dec 1). All tastings are guided by cheese 

monger Liz Payne in the Whey Back Room of Milky 

Whey Fine Cheese, Stratford. Reserve your seat 

early. visitstratford.ca/member/The-Milky-Whey- 

Fine-Cheese-Shop 

The Bruce Restaurant offers a complete take-away 

Thanksgiving dinner. visitstratford.ca/partner/ 

The-Bruce-Restaurant 

Stratford Farmers’ Market is a year-round market 

operating since 1855, featuring fresh produce, 

crafts, meat and cheese. Stratford Rotary Complex, 

Agriplex, 353 McCarthy Rd. Saturdays 7:00 am – 

12:00 pm. stratfordfairgrounds.com 

Stratford Chefs School launches its 35th year with 

their “Season Opener” party on Friday, October 

19th. Celebrate the start of a new school year and 

a new Stratford Chefs School cookbook, Farm to 

Table: Celebrating Stratford Chefs School Alumni 

Recipes & Perth County Producers (Blue Moon 

Publishers). This stunning book retails for $30 and 

features recipes from some of the regions' most 

celebrated graduates of Stratford Chefs School and 

fascinating interviews with the chefs conducted 

by Eatdrink contributor and CBC food columnist 

Andrew Coppolino and striking imagery provided 

by photographer and SCS alumna Terry Manzo. A 

good party always ends up in the kitchen and this 

one will be no different! Meet the students and 

faculty, learn about exciting upcoming events and 

the dinner series, and explore the outstanding 

facilities. Wine and beer will be available. Space is 

limited. RSVP universe.com/2018scsseasonopener 

Stratford Chefs School Dinner Series reservations 

opened on October 1st! And keep in mind Stratford 

Chefs School Dough. This is a gift certificate 

program where “dough” (aka dollars) may be 

applied towards any SCS merchandise, Dinner 

Series, and Open Kitchen cooking class. Purchase 

SCS Dough valued at $120 for only $100! Starting 

on October 1st SCS Dough can be purchased at the 

Administration Office at 192 Ontario Street. SCS 

Dough is available in $5, $10 and $20 denominations 

and is redeemable at full denomination value. Some 

restrictions apply. To learn more, visit our website 

or call the office. 519-271-1414, stratfordchef.com 

Stratford Chefs School is thrilled to announce Jane 

Sigal is the 2018 Joseph Hoare Gastronomic Writer 

in Residence. Jane Sigal is a celebrated journalist, 

editor, recipe developer, translator, teacher, and 

is the author of nine cookbooks. Her most recent


book, Bistronomy: Recipes from The Best New Paris 

Bistros (Rizzoli, 2015), has been widely praised by 

critics and industry leaders. Jane will spend two 

weeks at the school working with the students and 

participating in a number of events open to the 

public. stratfordchef.com 

Savour Stratford Culinary Trails: Explore the 

delicious flavours of Chocolate and Bacon and Ale 

on self-guided culinary walks to various food shops 

and restaurants. Available all year round, they are 

great for a girls’ getaway, a couple’s diversion or 

just for fun. Culinary trail gift certificates, great 

for Christmas, birthday and anniversary gifts are 

redeemable at a later date and can be purchased 

on-line. visitstratford.ca/chocolatetrail 

Stonetown Artisan Cheese is a purveyor of Swiss 

mountain-style cheeses, hand-crafted by master 

cheesemaker Ramon Eberle. Using unpasteurized 

milk from farmers Hans and Jolanda Weber’s 

herd of Holsteins, Eberle uses raw milk so that the 

cheese ripens as naturally as possible while the 

flavours improve with maturation. Cheeses and 

other local products are available to buy on-site 

at the farm store. Guided group tours are $5 per 

person (minimum 15 people). See the complete 

process of cheesemaking with the cheesemaker. 

The tour lasts about 60–90 minutes. 5021 Perth 

County Line 8 (Kirkton Road), St. Marys, 519-229- 

6856, stonetowncheese.com 

BIG OR SMALL, 

WE CATER ’EM ALL 

We specialize in bringing Southern hospitality 

and our award-winning food to your special 

occasion. 

OUR PLACE OR YOURS 

Our upstairs event space, 

The Lanc Loft, features a 

full bar, separate washrooms, 

PA system, tables and chairs. 

Our fully-mobile food truck has complete 

kitchen facilities wherever you need us! 

EAT LOCAL. EAT FRESH. 

lancsmokehouse.com 

574 Lancaster Street West Kitchener ON 

Monday–Saturday Open @ 11:30am 

Contact our Catering Manager for booking inquiries 

519.743.4331 | info@lancsmokehouse.com 

We want your BUZZ! 

Do you have culinary news or upcoming events 

that you’d like us to share? 

Every issue, Eatdrink reaches more than 

50,000 readers throughout Waterloo Region & 

Wellington County in print, 

and thousands more online. 

Get in touch with us at editor@eatdrink.ca and/or 

connect directly with our Social Media Editor 

Bryan Lavery at bryan@eatdrink.ca 

Submission deadline for the next issue is Nov. 5. 

eatdrink.ca


Beer 


Ciders and Sours, for Autumn 

by GEORGE MACKE 


Ciders and sours. As summer 

morphs into fall, these two styles of 

alcoholic beverages become top of 

mind for me. 

Craft ciders, led 

by cideries such as 

KW Craft Cider in 

Waterloo, are gaining 

momentum as both 

an alternative to 

white wine and, 

because ciders are 

fermented using 

fruit not grain, a 

gluten-free choice for an alcoholic beverage. 

Interest is such that some craft breweries 

— Walkerville in Windsor and Toboggan in 

London, for example — are adding their own 

takes on cider in-house, perhaps with wider 

distribution on the horizon. 

Sour beers have an exciting tartness, and 

are more enjoyable, sessionable and thirstquenching 

than an overly hopped IPA. We can 

thank Belgium for developing the style which 

has been embraced by many Ontario craft 

brewers, most notably Half Hours on Earth in 

Seaforth. Farmhouse sours, in theory, feature 

locally available ingredients and started as a 

low-alcohol style consumed around 

the fall harvest, as a lunchtime 

meal companion or end-of-day 

reward after hard hours in 

the fields. Look for words like 

lambic, Flanders red, gose, or 

Berliner weisse and chances are 

you’ve got a delightful sour in 

your hand. 

While many good examples 

of ciders and sours can be 

found at the LCBO and select 

grocery stores, beverage 

explorers know the best way 

to discover the talents of 

Southwestern Ontario cideries 

and brewers is to hit the 

road and buy direct, or use 

the breweries’ online stores 

if available. 

To whet your appetite, here’s 

a twelve-pack of sensational 

ciders and sours. 

KW Craft Sparkling 

Dry Cider —This flagship 

brand has been a consistent 

medal winner at the 

Great Lakes International 

Cider and


Perry Competition in Michigan. This is 6.7 per 

cent alcohol (abv) and is refreshing on its own 

or with a cheese tray. 

Hammer Bent Original by Twin 

Pines — Made from a blend of 

Northern Spy, Ida Red, Golden 

Russett and Jonagold apples 

grown in the Thedford 

orchards, Hammer Bent 

Original leads a family of 

nine versions of cider and 

apple wine from Twin Pines. It’s 

their best, but Crack Willow, an apple wine 

made with Northern Spy, Ida Red, and Golden 

Russet piques the interest of beverage 

voyageurs. 

Against the Currant by 

Wellington Brewing — Available 

as part of the Welly Rebooted Mix 

Pack Volume 4, Against the Currant 

is a purple monster of tang. 

Brewed in Guelph using Ontario 

black currants, there’s also a slight 

lemon flavour. The pack is at the 

LCBO or can be ordered through 

Wellington Brewing’s online store. 

Oak Aged Blueprint by Half 

Hours on Earth — Okay, it’s tough 

to keep up with what’s available at 

Half Hours on Earth in Seaforth, as 

versions of small batch sours come 

and go quickly. Half Hours updates 

its inventory availability each 

Thursday. Earth Oak Aged Blueprint 

is a 4.5% abv farmhouse saison. It’s 

aged in cider barrels, then blended 

with perry (aka cider made from 

pears) from Revel Cider in Guelph. 

Snag one of these to impress your 

friends. 

Hansel and Brett’el 

Farmhouse Blonde Ale by 

Forked River — Aged in chardonnay 

barrels for six months, Hansel 

and Brett’el is both light (4.6% 

abv) and flavourful, but not found 

by walking in the woods. Forked 

River suggests pairing it with a 

Cobb salad. Hansel and Brett’el 

is available only at the brewery 

bottle shop in London or through 

the Forked River online store.


Look for 

us in the 

LCBO! 

FAMILY OWNED & OPERATED • PROUDLY BREWED IN LONDON 

1030 ELIAS STREET, LONDON • 548-888-ALES 

Berry Berliner by Innocente Brewing 

— This seasonal was brewed as a collaboration 

between Innocente of Waterloo and craftloving 

Beertown Public House (locations in 

Waterloo, London, Cambridge, 

and Burlington). Brewed with 

raspberries and blackberries, 

it’s a nod to Ontario fruit 

farmers. It’s very light at 

3.8% abv with an entrylevel 

tartness. Innocente 

and Beertown have done six 

collaborative brews — keep an eye out for 

them. Berry Berliner is in cans at the brewery 

or available for growler fills. 

Sports by Refined Fool — Named in 

honour of sports being one of our most 

beloved universal 

conversation-starters 

(How ‘bout those Leafs? 

Finally, eh?), Sports is 

5.5% abv and 20 IBU 

(International Bitterness 

Units). This saison uses 

boysenberries. Tasting 

notes point out tangerine 

and honey flavours. Game on! 

Face for a Neck Tattoo by Refined Fool 

— Make it two for Sarnia’s 

craft brewery. This 5.2% abv, 

27 IBU saison uses Szechuan 

peppercorns. The name plays 

on tough guys softened by 

liking the taste of this one. 

Keyser Gose by Forked 

River — Brewers at London’s 

Forked River used lactobacillus 

followed by brewers yeast to 

create this new gently sour, 

citrusy gose, a beer style from 

Germany. It’s a brewery store/ 

Forked River online exclusive. 

Spirit of the Woods by 

Revel Cider — Guelph’s cider 

house collaborated with Dillon’s 

Small Batch 

Distillers of Beamsville to 

create this by aging the cider 

on spent gin botanicals. A 

gold medal winner at the 

Ontario Cider Awards in 

2015, Spirit of the Woods is 

6.9% abv.


66 Pickup by Hoity Toity — A 

gold medal winner at the Great 

Lakes International Cider and Perry 

competition, 66 Pickup veers to the 

dry side. Kudos to the rural Bruce 

County winery for rebranding this 

cider from its original name, Gravel 

Run, which left my throat dusty. 

This lightly carbonated cider is made 

with apples harvested in Grey and 

Bruce counties. 

Road Trip! 

Come to the Cowbell Farm in Blyth, Ontario 

“THE NO.1 CRAFT BREWERY IN CANADA TO VISIT.” 

—WAYNE NEWTON, FOOD & DRINK JOURNALIST 

Toboggan Cider — The Richmond Row, 

London brew pub aims to please by offering 

a pair of its own ciders, a dry and a sweet. 

Either works well for sitting 

on the restaurant’s patio and 

toasting the drop-off of your 

kid up the road at Western, 

but the nod goes to the dry 

version for its citrus undertone. 

Both are 6% abv. 

GEORGE MACKE is a craft beer lover exploring the 

breweries (and cideries) throughout Southwestern Ontario. 

40035 BLYTH ROAD, BLYTH, ON N0M 1H0 

1-844-523-4724 WWW.COWBELLBREWING.COM 

BLACK SWAN 

BREWING COMPANY 

STRATFORD • ONTARIO 

It's what we drink. 

144 DOWNIE ST, STRATFORD 

BLACKSWANBREWING.CA 519 • 814 • 7926 @BLACKSWANBREWINGCO

38 |October/November 2018 eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag 

Wine 

Pioneers of “Huron Shores” 

Alton Farms Estate Winery in Lambton County 

by GARY KILLOPS 

Looking for a day trip close to 

home? Alton Farms Estate 

Winery, located at 5547 

Aberarder Line, Plympton- 

Wyoming is just about an hour west of 

London. 

Marc Alton and Anne Kurtz- 

Alton, who own and operate the 

vineyard, recently celebrated the fifth 

anniversary of the winery. The Altons 

purchased the 90-acre property in 2005 

and soon after planted a test acre of fifteen 

different varietals to see what they could grow 

best on the property. 

They proved wrong the naysayers who said 

it would be too cold for grapes to grow and for 

vines to survive the cold winters, and went 

on to became Lambton County’s first winery. 

Together with Dark Horse Estate Winery and 

Maelstrom Winery in neighboring Huron 

County an Ontario wine region is forming, 

unofficially called “Huron Shores”. 

“From the beginning we have always been 

committed to sustainability both in the 

vineyard and the winery,” Anne explains. “We 

try not to waste anything. We compost the 

pruned vines in the spring, and the grape 

skins and seeds after harvest. We also have a 

herd of Shetland sheep and 15 lambs who eat 

the ground cover between the rows of 

vine and fertilize the soil.” 

As is the case for most vineyards in 

southern Ontario, too much moisture 

from rain and humidity can be a concern. 

Marc, who is both the winemaker and 

vineyard manager, keeps a close watch 

on the climate and will only use the most 

sustainable products when there is a 

need to spray in the vineyard. 

A geo-engineer and marine geologist 

by profession, Marc is a self-taught 

winemaker and grape grower. He is 

learning, adapting, and challenging 

traditional winemaking practices and 

is willing to 

experiment with unusual blends that are both 

interesting and unique. 

In 2013 the winery opened to the public 

in a century-old wooden drive shed on the 

property. “It’s been a labour of love,” says 

Anne. “As our budget allows we look to make 

improvements to the winery and in the 

vineyard.” This year the tasting room and 

retail store were moved to the renovated 

basement of the family home, offering a 

striking wooden tasting bar with superior 

lighting and welcoming ambience. The winery 

offers a flight of three wines for $5. The tasting 

fee is waived with wine purchase. In addition 

to wine, the retail store has glassware, gift 

baskets, and wine accessories for sale. 

Other recent additions to the winery 

Anne Kurtz-Alton with some of the vital vineyard workers



Taste the elements. 

1709 Front Road, St. Williams, Norfolk County, ON 

Tastings, Tours & Events 

burningkilnwinery.ca 519.586.9858 

@burningkilnwine


include an open-air patio and a wood-fired 

pizza oven offering Margherita, meat lovers, 

Mediterranean chicken and gluten-free pizzas. 

The patio menu also includes charcuterie 

boards with a selection of seasonal meats, 

cheeses, breads, crackers and fruits. Wine is 

available by the glass. 

The selection of red, white and rosé wines 

available for purchase from the winery is 

always changing as new wines are released. The 

current offerings include a 2016 riesling, 2016 

sauvignon blanc and 2015 chardonnay, and 

a rosé made from marechel foch grapes. Red 

wines include the 2016 baco noir, 2015 cabernet 

sauvignon and 2015 cabernet franc. Some 

hybrid and vinifera blends are also available. 

Alton Farms wine production is small 

when compared to other wineries in Ontario. 

Last year they produced just under 600 cases 

and hope to increase production to about 

800 cases this year. With this volume it is 

difficult to make a profit. “You really have 

to make more wine, and sell more volume,” 

Marc said. Anne also pointed out that the 

patio and special events help keep the winery 

open at this time. 

The winery hosted quite a few events this 


Enjoy wine pizza from the wood-fired oven on the patio 

past summer such as “Wine Wednesday 

Dinners” featuring different local chefs each 

week and food paired with wines from Alton 

Estates. They also hold “Wine and Paint” and 

“Wine and Yoga” afternoons and the annual 

“Fine Art, Fine Wine: Show and Sale.” Many of 

these events sold out. 

On September 23rd the winery will host the 

third annual grape stomp event. The stomping 

fee is $5 per entry, with all proceeds in support 

of Bluewater Centre for Raptor Rehabilitation. 

This is a family event with competitive adult 

grape stomping and kid stomps. 

On October 13th the winery will host their 

second annual Weinfest. This family-friendly 

event is a German tradition in celebration of 

the new wines in production after harvest. 

Alton Farms Estate Winery 

5547 Aberarder Line, Plympton-Wyoming 

519-899-2479 

altonfarmsestatewinery.com 

The new tasting room has a warm welcoming ambiance 

GARY KILLOPS is a CAPS Certified Sommelier who 

loves to talk, taste, and write about wine. He shares his 

tasting notes on EssexWineReview.com 

Share Our Passion 

Available 

at 

at the 

Fine LCBO Restaurants 

& The Winery 

Colchester Ridge Estate Winery 

A Family-Run Craft Winery 

Award-Winning VQA Wines 

Friendly Tasting Boutique 

Picnic Tables 

Artisanal Ontario Cheeses 

Special Events 

@crewinery • 108 Essex County Road 50 • Harrow ON • 519-738-9800


Recipes 


From Farm to Table to Page 

Forest City Cookbook 

By Alieska Robles 

Review and Recipe Selections by TRACY TURLIN 

If you’re not paying attention, London 

might seem a little ... beige (as I once 

heard it described by comedian Billy 

Connolly). Fortunately, Alieska Robles 

has experience finding the heart of a place. 

She was raised in Caracas, Venezuela and 

spent several years in Buenos Aires, Argentina 

before relocating to London. Once here, 

she went looking for the vibrant network of 

people that make up the local food movement 

in London. The result of this labour of love 

of nearly two years is Forest City Cookbook 

(Alieska Robles; self-published; 2018). 

The best cookbooks, to me, are stories of 

people and their traditions, our memories of the 

past and our connections to our communities. 

Forest City Cookbook focuses on local producers, 

artisans and chefs in the London region. It’s 

organized not by courses but by producers, 

and offers recipes from local chefs using the 

highlighted ingredients. I love this approach as it 

allows you to choose a recipe based on what you 

have on hand. It’s easy to forget but traditionally 

cooking is ingredient driven. If you have 

peaches, you make something with peaches. 

There’s a guide to seasonal produce in the back 

of the book to help you plan for that. 

The author’s well-travelled 

parents exposed her to many 

different cultures, leaving 

her with a love of antiques, 

collectibles and cookbooks. 

This is reflected in her 

wonderful photography, which 

is unusually dark (but very 

effective) for a cookbook. The 

refreshing approach gives you 

the feeling of an old-fashioned, 

slower way of life while 

highlighting modern food. 

Forest City Cookbook has 

more than a few surprises. I 

had no idea 

that we had 

local producers 

of wild 

boar but 

Perth Pork 

Products 

offers it 

among 

its selection 

of 

heritage 

breed 

meats. 

David 

Bistro’s chef 

Elvis Drennan’s recipe for 

Honey & Rosemary Glazed Wild Boar combines 

this delicious meat with a tart cherry 

compote. A potato rosti with sauerkraut adds 

a beautiful touch of crispy and tangy. Served 

with fresh green beans, it’s the kind of dish 

that, without being too technically difficult, 

makes you look like a genius in the kitchen. 

I love fruit crisps because they are easy 

to prepare and adjust to whatever fruit you 

have on hand. Juliana Guy Wesseling won the 

Eatdrink/Forest City Cookbook 

original recipe contest using 

all local ingredients. Her 

Apple Crisp recipe takes 

this humble dessert to new 

heights. Generous portions 

of fruit and crumble topping 

are pushed over the top with 

a candied bacon caramel 

sauce and Gunn’s Hill 5 

Brothers Reserve Cheese. 

This dish ticks all the yummy 

boxes, and then some. 

Author/photographer Alieska Robles



Forest City Cookbook is focused on 

community. There’s a special mention of Urban 

Roots, a non-profit dedicated to utilizing 

underused city space to grow fresh food. Its 

goal is to reduce food insecurity by facilitating 

the placement of urban farm plots throughout 

London. Eatdrink’s Food Editor Bryan Lavery 

contributed the cookbook’s foreword and a 

summary of local culinary history. His recipe 

for Roasted Vegetable Terrine is an ideal way 

to bring a variety of these vegetables together 

while keeping their flavours and textures 

intact. Infinitely variable, it can be served as an 

appetizer or main course and tastes as amazing 

as it looks. 

Alieska Robles’s Forest City Cookbook 

connects the dots between all the players in 

the local farm-to-table community. It’s the 

story of our city and some of the people who 

work so hard to make it a special place to be: 

producers, educators, suppliers, chefs and 

artists. Robles looks at London with fresh 

eyes and shows us what we may have missed 

in our complacency. Sometimes it takes a new 

perspective to make you appreciate how good 

we have it. 

TRACY TURLIN is a freelance writer and dog groomer 

in London. Reach her at tracyturlin@gmail.com 

Recipes excerpted from Forest City Cookbook 

reproduced by arrangement with the Publisher. 

All rights reserved. 

Apple Crisp 

with Candied Bacon, Bacon Caramel Sauce & Aged Cheese 

by JULIANNA GUY WESSELING 

Prep: 35 Minutes • Cook: 1 Hour 30 Minutes 

Serves 8 

Apples • Dessert • Easy 

Apple crumble and apple pie 

with cheddar have always 

been top contenders on my 

father’s favourite desserts 

list. He would even ask for 

them instead of birthday cake! 

This recipe quickly became 

my family’s “go-to” dessert 

but needed a little “extra 

something” to be a contestwinning 

recipe for submitting 

to the Eatdrink magazine 

recipe contest. Combining 

sweet and peppery bacon with 

creamy, salty caramel, and 

sharp aged cheese is a twist 

on a classic that is sure to 

impress! 

CRUMB TOPPING 

¾ cup flour 

1 cup quick oats 

¼ cup packed brown sugar 

2 Tbsp sugar 

½ tsp salt 

⅔ cup butter, frozen, grated 

love 

In a large bowl, mix flour, oats, 

brown sugar, white sugar and salt.


Using your hands or a pastry blender, cut the butter into 

the flour (the butter should hold its shape when pressed). 

Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until the apple 

filling is ready. 

FILLING (makes 6 cups) 

⅓ cup sugar 

1 Tbsp cornstarch 

¼ tsp ground nutmeg 

2 tsp ground cinnamon 

8 medium Royal Gala apples, peeled, medium 

diced 

1 Tbsp apple cider vinegar 

love 

In a large bowl, combine sugar and cornstarch. Add 

nutmeg, cinnamon and apples. Drizzle with vinegar and 

toss until the apples are evenly coated. 

APPLE CRISP 

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Place the apple filling into a 9x9 

baking dish. Evenly cover the apples with crumb topping, 

making sure to fill all the little nooks and crannies around 

the sides. Bake for 45–55 minutes or until golden brown 

and bubbling. 

CHEF NOTE: Don’t worry, the mound of apples will cook 

down! 

CANDIED BACON 

500 g double smoked bacon, thinly sliced 

½ cup brown sugar 

freshly cracked black pepper 

love 

Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Evenly 

distribute the bacon and generously cover each strip with 

brown sugar. Evenly sprinkle the black pepper and bake 

for 15-20 minutes until glazed and crispy. Rotate halfway 

through. Remove from oven and allow to cool. Try not to 

eat it all! 

CANDIED BACON CARAMEL SAUCE 

1 cup sugar 

2 Tbsp water 

¼ cup candied bacon, crumbled 

¼ cup butter, cubed 

¾ cup 35% cream 

love 

In a medium pot, bring sugar and water to a boil over 

medium heat. Reduce the heat and simmer for 6-8 minutes 

without stirring, occasionally swirling the pot until the 

caramel reaches a medium amber colour. Add the candied 

bacon to the caramel and remove from heat. Add butter 

and cream and whisk until well combined. Transfer to a 

glass jar and allow to cool until ready to use. 

FINISH 

200 g Gunn’s Hill Five Brothers Reserve Cheese 

In a deep plate, scoop a portion of the apple crisp, drizzle 

with caramel sauce, add a few pieces of Five Brother’s 

Cheese and top with a strip of candied bacon. Enjoy! 

31 Nottinghill Gate, Suite 203, 

Oakville ON TICO#50013851 

Award Winning 

Artisan Cheese 

Come Experience Our World! 

Visit our cheese shop and sample our 

unique handmade cheeses. 

See and learn about how cheese is made. 

Enjoy the scenery on our 3-generation family farm. 

Group tours are available by reservation. 

MON-SAT 9-5 

445172 Gunn's Hill Rd, Woodstock, ON 

519-424-4024 

www.gunnshillcheese.ca 

Discover Heather's 

Incomparable Journeys 

Graduation? 

Celebration? 

Reunion? 

Villa Vacation in Provence, France 

A unique property, on a private vineyard with pool & 

tennis court, with Roman history. Apartments for 2–6 

people or take the entire property for up to 18 people. 

Reconnect as a family or group of friends and share 

special experiences to create a lifetime of memories! 

www.heathersincomparablejourneys.ca 

For any and all of your travel needs 

519-473-8591 

Heather Wilkinson 

Regional Office: 31 Nottinghill Gate, Suite 203, Oakville 

TICO#50013851


Honey & Rosemary Glazed Wild Boar 

with Cherry Compote, Green Beans & Sauerkraut Roti 

by ELVIS DRENNAN 

Prep: 20 Minutes • Cook: 40 Minutes 

Serves 2 

Pork & Wild Boar • Main • Easy 

Boar is an underused meat, not commonly seen 

in many restaurants. This recipe comes from 

an eagerness to experiment with it, challenging 

myself to create an unconventional meal 

with an unusual and particularly interesting 

combination of flavours. 

HONEY & ROSEMARY GLAZE 

4 Tbsp honey 

2 sprigs of rosemary, stems removed, minced 

In a small pot, slightly warm the honey. Remove from heat 

and add rosemary. Set aside until ready to use. 

CHERRY COMPOTE 

1 Tbsp olive oil 

⅛ Tbsp onion, minced 

⅛ Tbsp garlic, minced 

2 Tbsp sugar 

12 local cherries, pitted, halved 

½ cup red wine 

2 Tbsp red wine vinegar 

salt and pepper to taste 

In a small pan, heat the olive oil and sauté onions 

and garlic until soft. Add remaining ingredients 

and bring to a simmer, allow the liquid to reduce 

until thickened. Set aside until ready to use. 

SAUERKRAUT ROTI 

1 large Yukon gold potato 

¼ cup sauerkraut, drained 

¼ cup flour 

1 large egg 


salt to taste 

Place the potato in a large pot and cover with 

water. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat and 

simmer for 5 minutes. Remove the pot from the 

heat and leave the potato in the water for 5-10 

additional minutes. Strain and rinse the potato 

in cold water. Shred with the skin on. 

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Using a stand 

mixer, combine shredded potato, sauerkraut, 

flour and egg. Mix well until a moist dough forms 

and shape into 2 patties. Adjust consistency with 

water or flour if needed. 

In a large ovenproof pan, heat the olive 

oil over high heat. Sear one side of the potato 

patties until golden brown. Season with salt, 

turn over and place in the oven for 10 minutes 

or until thoroughly cooked. 


GREEN BEANS 

1 cup green beans 

Bring a small pot of water to a boil. Blanch the green 

beans for 2 minutes until crisp and bright green. Strain 

and shock in an ice water bath. Lightly sauté in the same 

pan used for the sauerkraut roti. 

BOAR TENDERLOIN 


2 large wild boar tenderloins 

salt and pepper 

In a separate ovenproof pan, heat the olive oil over high 

heat. Add boar tenderloins and sear until golden brown, 

turn over and place in the oven for 8-12 minutes or until 

desired doneness. 

CHEF NOTES: Ideally, the boar should still have some 

pink colour for best results. 

Remove from oven and brush thoroughly with 

rosemary glaze. Transfer to a cutting board and allow to 

rest for 3-5 minutes before slicing. 

Serve with sauerkraut roti and green beans. Top with 

cherry compote.



Books 

Buttermilk Graffiti 

A Chef’s Journey to Discover America’s New Melting-Pot Cuisine 

Review by DARIN COOK 

Fusion is not new in the restaurant 

world. Even though Chef Edward 

Lee fears it has become a culinary 

gimmick, he knows the concept had 

profound meaning when it originated in a 

restaurant in Florida under the gaze of one of 

his heroes, Norman Van Aken. Real fusion is 

attuned to the everyday cooking of families 

who set roots in a new country and harmonize 

immigrant traditions with local cuisine. These 

are the types of recipes, restaurants, chefs 

and families that Lee searched for from the 

nationalities sprawled across American cities 

when writing Buttermilk Graffiti: A Chef ’s 

Journey to Discover America’s New Melting- 

Pot Cuisine (Thomas Allen & Son, 2018). 

Whenever Lee has clam pizza in Connecticut 

he contemplates “the slow and gradual 

interconnection of two cultures, in this 

case, Italian and New England.” He further 

writes, “When you look at the evolution of 

American cuisine, you always find this tension 

between tradition and innovation, a tension 

that produces the foods we crave most. It is 

in the intersection of the home we leave and 

the home we adopt that we find a dish that 

defines who we really are.” 

Lee was raised in Brooklyn with his Korean 

family before he moved to Kentucky, where he 

refined his own cooking style. He identifies as a 

Southern chef, influenced not only by all other 

American styles, but also immigrant ones. He 

implores us to be “fascinated by other unlikely 

couplings that make up the narrative of life in 

America” because he knows that people project 

the food of their culture 

onto the fabric of their 

whole identity. 

Immigrants revealed 

how they missed their 

homeland's ways of eating. 

A Moroccan immigrant in 

Connecticut reminisces 

about Marrakesh: “Every 

day, you gather with 

Author Edward Lee 

families and 

friends for meals. 

You stroll through 

the markets and 

smell spices … 

You drink mint 

tea in cafes and 

talk all day till 

the sun goes 

down. Meals 

are celebrations, 

enjoyed in large groups.” Keeping 

food traditions alive, she teaches Lee to 

prepare smen, a traditional Moroccan butter. 

Lee's cross-country journey is entertaining 

and enlightening with French beignets in New 

Orleans, Cambodian cuisine in Massachusetts, 

Cuban food in Florida (where he learned to 

taste food in new ways by learning the nuances 

of smoking cigars), German schnitzel in 

Wisconsin, Lebanese kibbeh in Mississippi, and 

Swedish pancakes in Seattle. 

Throughout the book, Lee encourages 

experimentation and making food fusion 

personal. He suggests taking a recipe 

that you like and fusing it with your own 

preferences. This is how the recipes at the 

end of each chapter were born, as Lee riffs on 

unique global delicacies, like Coffee-Glazed 

Bacon with Pickled Watermelon and Fried 

Peanuts. “I never understood why the Asian 

identity and the American identity had to be 

compartmentalized," writes Lee, "the way my 

Salisbury steak and apple pie were separated in 

my Swanson’s dinner. I wanted them all in one 

bite.” Buttermilk Graffiti 

proves that each bite of 

food can lead to cultural 

outpourings about families, 

recipes, traditions, and 

memories. 

DARIN COOK is a regular 

Eatdrink contributor who lives 

and works in Chatham-Kent.


The Lighter Side 

Pescatarian Tales 


By REBECCA ST. PIERRE 

Meat was a constant part of my diet 

when I was growing up in rural 

Southwestern Ontario. Pot roast, 

chicken wings and my mother’s 

signature headcheese took turns stealing 

prominent places of distinction on my dinner 

plate. At Christmas a large platter of honeyglazed 

ham was proudly displayed in the 

middle of the dining table, forcing all other 

lesser dishes of food to fight for the remaining 

space, and at Thanksgiving a beautifully 

browned turkey encouraged sibling rivalry 

over the wishbone. I didn’t question whether I 

should or shouldn’t eat meat. 

Time passed and I moved 

away from home, and after 

careful deliberation decided 

to stop eating meat — at least 

land animals. I continue to eat 

aquatic creatures like fish and 

seafood. For the past 20 years I 

thought I was a vegetarian because I 

was raised on the belief that fish flesh 

was not meat. Unknowingly I have been lying 

to family, friends, and myself for nearly two 

decades. The Vegetarian Society defines a 

vegetarian as someone who does not eat the 

flesh of any animal, including the critters 

residing in our lakes, streams and coastal 

oceans. For the sake of simplicity, I often 

continue to refer to myself as a vegetarian. 

“I’m a pescatarian” elicits quizzical looks, head 

tilting and raised eyebrows. 

Over the years I’ve mastered the skill of 

discreetly removing pepperoni from slices 

of pizza at social events and avoiding bacon 

bits in Caesar salads. I suspect many people 

assume I’m a picky eater with a small appetite. 

With only two or three meatless dishes at 

most group gatherings, my plate often looks 

desolate. A hefty helping of large salad greens 

usually solves the problem. If a host should 

discover I’m a pescatarian, he or she is always 

accommodating and generous. 

Sometimes my choice of diet defies a way 

of life that someone has identified with 

since childhood. My husband eats meat and 

probably always will. Chicken legs, pork 

sausage and beef burgers are a regular part 

of his diet. We visited his friends in Alberta 

shortly after we started dating, where 

Chinook winds, frigid temperatures and 

meaty meals are as common as breathing, 

walking and sleeping. I wonder to this 

day if his friends initially considered an 

intervention when they heard his girlfriend 

did not eat beef. But the seafood chowder 

they prepared for lunch was absolutely divine. 

A pescatarian diet can be a conversation 

starter, stimulating interesting discussions. 

New acquaintances have asked, “Do you miss 

eating chicken?” and “If you don’t 

eat red meat, what do you eat?” 

— queries similar to those I 

asked myself in the first couple of 

years of saying goodbye to most types 

of meat dishes. Soon after answering 

their questions, we are sharing stories of what 

influences our food choices, which usually 

launches a delectable chat on a buffet of topics. 

Having an atypical diet can also cause 

confusion, as perfectly portrayed in one of 

my favourite scenes from the movie My Big 

Fat Greek Wedding. When the bride’s aunt, 

played by Andrea Martin, discovers the groom 

is a vegetarian, she exclaims to a room filled 

with guests, “What do you mean he don’t eat 

no meat!” All conversation suddenly ceases. 

A glass crashes to the floor. After a pregnant 

pause, she calmly says, “Oh, that’s okay, that’s 

okay, I make lamb, come.” 

A baked, meaty portobello mushroom is 

beginning to look as appetizing as a seared 

fillet of rainbow trout. Perhaps I will be a 

vegetarian by the end of the year, but until 

then, please pass the fish. 

REBECCA ST. PIERRE is a London-based freelance 

writer and photographer. She has been writing for 

publications, non-profits and small businesses since 2008. 

For more of her work, visit www.WordFlightAndLight.com.


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Eatdrink Waterloo & Wellington #3 October/November 2018

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