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Nomad Africa Edition 13

This edition of the magazine presents us with an opportunity to deeply look into faith-based tourism and churches across the continent of Africa. Reports of pastors convincing worshipers to eat snakes, spraying insecticide into mouths of believers during fully packed sermons under the guise of God’s hand apparently, and even buildings that collapse due to poor structural engineering – there has been much strange activity, but no consequence. This makes us ask a single question; should churches not be regulated? (see page 76). Lorraine Masemola – a new addition to our editorial team, attended the Domba traditional dance of magical Venda in South Africa. This colourful python dance, held annually at a very sacred site, Lake Fundudzi, secures good rain for the following season (page 52). In another special feature, Martin Chemhere, in his piece, updates us on South Africa’s newly relaxed visa regulations. Will it significantly help boost tourism in that country? (page 62). To this extent, I will like to say that I am delighted to work with the talented team here at Nomad Africa as I assume the position as the new Managing Editor. It was a daunting idea to build something new in travel journalism - something brave, bold and exceptionally beautiful. Africa’s future is an open road and we’re picking up speed, so it is the perfect time to be joining. Good writing and engaging storytelling are the lenses through which we connect with the world. I look forward to exploring the various cultures, people, developments and trends impacting Africa’s travel and tourism industry. At a time when most online content tends toward the shallow and ephemeral, our stories will seek to deliver sustained engagement and value. As I work with the team to grow the company into a sustainable publisher of smart stories, dynamic insights and carefully curated thought leadership, I hope you find it resourceful and compelling. I am grateful to re-imagine every single page with you. I look forward to the journey. I hope you enjoy the ride with us.

This edition of the magazine presents us with an opportunity to deeply look into faith-based tourism and churches across the continent of Africa. Reports of pastors convincing worshipers to eat snakes, spraying insecticide into mouths of believers during fully packed sermons under the guise of God’s hand apparently, and even buildings that collapse due to poor structural engineering – there has been much strange activity, but no consequence. This makes us ask a single question; should churches not be regulated? (see page 76).
Lorraine Masemola – a new addition to our editorial team, attended the Domba traditional dance of magical Venda in South Africa. This colourful python dance, held annually at a very sacred site, Lake Fundudzi, secures good rain for the following season (page 52). In another special feature, Martin Chemhere, in his piece, updates us on South Africa’s newly relaxed visa regulations. Will it significantly help boost tourism in that country? (page 62).
To this extent, I will like to say that I am delighted to work with the talented team here at Nomad Africa as I assume the position as the new Managing Editor. It was a daunting idea to build something new in travel journalism - something brave, bold and exceptionally beautiful. Africa’s future is an open road and we’re picking up speed, so it is the perfect time to be joining.
Good writing and engaging storytelling are the lenses through which we connect with the world. I look forward to exploring the various cultures, people, developments and trends impacting Africa’s travel and tourism industry. At a time when most online content tends toward the shallow and ephemeral, our stories will seek to deliver sustained engagement and value. As I work with the team to grow the company into a sustainable publisher of smart stories, dynamic insights and carefully curated thought leadership,
I hope you find it resourceful and compelling. I am grateful to re-imagine every
single page with you. I look forward to the journey. I hope you enjoy the ride with us.

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Welcome<br />

TO AFRICA!<br />

aconcept was born from a passionate<br />

desire to dispel the negative<br />

perceptions, which the<br />

world has held of the <strong>Africa</strong>n<br />

continent, and to replace them<br />

with a positive focus. That concept<br />

took form in the launch of the <strong>Nomad</strong> <strong>Africa</strong><br />

project in 2012. The project involves using several<br />

media platforms to promote and celebrate the<br />

<strong>Africa</strong>n continent.<br />

<strong>Nomad</strong> <strong>Africa</strong> celebrates life on the <strong>Africa</strong>n continent<br />

and promotes its vibrant pulse through our<br />

Pan-<strong>Africa</strong>nist ideology, to encourage the solidarity<br />

of <strong>Africa</strong>ns worldwide. It aims to foster a strong interest<br />

in the continent's cultural heritage, unique<br />

tourist attractions and countless business development<br />

and investment opportunities, with the millions<br />

of people living in, investigating or visiting<br />

<strong>Africa</strong>.<br />

<strong>Nomad</strong> <strong>Africa</strong> inspires and breeds a conscious,<br />

knowledgeable generation of visionaries among<br />

our own, and influences positive perceptions and<br />

appreciation for the true worth of <strong>Africa</strong> worldwide.<br />

The <strong>Nomad</strong> <strong>Africa</strong> project has created a unique advertising<br />

platform for clients wishing to promote<br />

business, investments and awareness of their services<br />

and products in <strong>Africa</strong>.<br />

<strong>Nomad</strong> <strong>Africa</strong> magazine, the print platform of the<br />

project, is an elegant, luxury magazine targeting the<br />

tourism, travel, social, political, cultural and business<br />

fields prevailing in <strong>Africa</strong> and is circulated across the<br />

<strong>Africa</strong>n continent.<br />

Made available in most VIP lounges of international<br />

airports, business class sections of selected airlines,<br />

four- and five-star hotels, spas and casinos as well<br />

as luxury cruise liners that service the <strong>Africa</strong>n coastline.<br />

Present distribution outlets across <strong>Africa</strong> are<br />

South <strong>Africa</strong> (Johannesburg, Cape Town, Durban &<br />

Port Elizabeth), Nigeria (Lagos), Ghana (Accra), Zimbabwe<br />

(Harare), Zambia (Lusaka), Namibia (Windhoek),<br />

Rwanda (Kigali) and Mauritius, Kenya and<br />

Seychelles to be added in the coming months. Distribution<br />

is continuously monitored by Media Support<br />

(PTY) Limited.<br />

<strong>Nomad</strong> <strong>Africa</strong> magazine retails exclusively in Woolworths,<br />

Checkers and CNA outlets. Retail distribution<br />

is monitored by On The Dot - the biggest multichannel<br />

media logistics company in <strong>Africa</strong>.<br />

The <strong>Nomad</strong> <strong>Africa</strong> e-zine, which is published digitally,<br />

is available on digital newsstand platforms like<br />

PressReader, Zinio, Magzter and on Android, iPhone<br />

and Windows app stores. The magazine is made<br />

available digitally to a worldwide combined audience<br />

of over 300 million and an extensive network<br />

of sponsored hotspots, which allows the magazine<br />

to be viewed and downloaded in more than 6,000<br />

hotels worldwide and over 16,000 libraries, universities,<br />

cruise ships, airlines, government and corporate<br />

offices, hospitals, and cafes around the globe.<br />

The <strong>Nomad</strong> <strong>Africa</strong> bi-monthly newsletter is sent to<br />

more than 65,000 subscribers internationally, with<br />

the number constantly growing.<br />

<strong>Nomad</strong>TV is the online digital television division of<br />

the <strong>Nomad</strong> <strong>Africa</strong> project. It regularly features interviews<br />

with representatives of government and<br />

tourism boards across the continent of <strong>Africa</strong> and<br />

helps showcase their unique offerings and destinations.<br />

<strong>Nomad</strong>TV is popularly employed to create advertorials<br />

for our distribution partners and advertisers.<br />

All our productions are showcased on our website<br />

and the <strong>Nomad</strong>TV Youtube channel.<br />

For more details, how you can partner with us, or invest<br />

in this unparalleled project, please e-mail us at:<br />

thepublisher@nomadafricamag.com or call +27 11<br />

052 4597.<br />

Issue 12 | ...Celebrating the world’s richest continent | www.nomadafricamag.com | 5


10 | www.nomadafricamag.com | ...Celebrating the world’s richest continent | Issue <strong>13</strong>


Faith Tourism: A Neglected Tourism Sector?<br />

Travelling has a way of humbling a person and broadens one’s perspective in multiple<br />

ways. People travel for various reasons: To escape a mundane life; to relax and unwind;<br />

to explore and seek adventure; for work and business opportunities; to learn something<br />

new and challenge oneself or celebrate and visit loved ones. But there is another motivation<br />

for travel that is as old as time itself and one which encourages vast masses to<br />

make frequent journeys. Faith tourism – or Religious tourism – as it is sometimes referred<br />

to, is a type of tourism where individuals or masses of people travel with a desire<br />

to participate in religious celebrations and ceremonies, to learn more about centres of<br />

worship and relics, to join fellowships or make pilgrimage to worship saints.<br />

This edition of the magazine presents us with an opportunity to deeply look into faithbased<br />

tourism and churches across the continent of <strong>Africa</strong>. Reports of pastors convincing<br />

worshippers to eat snakes, spraying insecticide into mouths of believers during fully<br />

packed sermons under the guise of God’s hand apparently, and even buildings that<br />

collapse due to poor structural engineering – there has been much strange activity,<br />

but no consequence. This makes us ask a single question; should churches not be regulated?<br />

(see page 76).<br />

Lorraine Masemola – a new addition to our editorial team, attended the Domba traditional<br />

dance of magical Venda in South <strong>Africa</strong>. This colourful python dance, held annually<br />

at a very sacred site, Lake Fundudzi, secures good rain for the following season<br />

(page 52). In another special feature, Martin Chemhere, in his piece, updates us on<br />

South <strong>Africa</strong>’s newly relaxed visa regulations. Will it significantly help boost tourism in<br />

that country? (page 62).<br />

To this extent, I will like to say that I am delighted to work with the talented team here<br />

at <strong>Nomad</strong> <strong>Africa</strong> as I assume the position as the new Managing Editor. It was a daunting<br />

idea to build something new in travel journalism - something brave, bold and exceptionally<br />

beautiful. <strong>Africa</strong>’s future is an open road and we’re picking up speed, so it is the<br />

perfect time to be joining.<br />

Good writing and engaging storytelling are the lenses through which we connect with<br />

the world. I look forward to exploring the various cultures, people, developments and<br />

trends impacting <strong>Africa</strong>’s travel and tourism industry. At a time when most online content<br />

tends toward the shallow and ephemeral, our stories will seek to deliver sustained<br />

engagement and value. As I work with the team to grow the company into a sustainable<br />

publisher of smart stories, dynamic insights and carefully curated thought leadership,<br />

I hope you find it resourceful and compelling. I am grateful to reimagine every<br />

single page with you. I look forward to the journey. I hope you enjoy the ride with us.<br />

Issue <strong>13</strong> | ...Celebrating the world’s richest continent | www.nomadafricamag.com | 11


12 | www.nomadafricamag.com | ...Celebrating the world’s richest continent | Issue <strong>13</strong>


Top 10<br />

TOP TEN MUST VISIT<br />

RELIGIOUS STRUCTURES<br />

IN AFRICA<br />

Recent years have seen a rapid mushrooming of religious institutions across<br />

<strong>Africa</strong> as more people grow in their faith or start a new life as believers. While this may<br />

paint a picture of a newly religious continent, the truth is, <strong>Africa</strong> has long been a<br />

continent steeped in religion. This is not only evidenced by the indigenous beliefs<br />

found across the continent, but also by the historical places of worship that have stood<br />

the test of time to tell the story of the continent’s beliefs in all its vibrant diversity.<br />

Words: MOZA MOYO<br />

africa’s famous sacred<br />

buildings are a source<br />

of great fascination.<br />

From the rich history to<br />

the unique architecture,<br />

there’s a lot that<br />

lends allure to these<br />

structures. This list of ten edifices from the<br />

ancient and modern world is in no way allinclusive,<br />

but it’s a fair representation of the<br />

extraordinary religious structures across this<br />

vast continent.<br />

The Great Mosque of Djenné<br />

The Great Mosque of Djenné in Mali is<br />

among the most astounding buildings in the<br />

world. The mosque, which is considered<br />

one of the greatest creations of the Sahelian<br />

architecture, was entirely built from mud,<br />

making it the world’s largest mud-brick<br />

building. In fact, the whole town of Djenné<br />

is made up of houses built from mud architecture<br />

since the 14th century. The building<br />

process involves drying clay bricks in the<br />

oven to harden and make them heat resistant.<br />

The bricks are stacked together to create<br />

walls, then plastered with mud. Over the<br />

decades, the Great Mosque has collapsed<br />

twice, and the one that stands today was<br />

completed in 1907. To keep the building<br />

from falling apart, an annual week-long festival<br />

is held, where residents come out in<br />

numbers to plaster and repair it. One of<br />

West <strong>Africa</strong>’s most important Islamic centres,<br />

the monumental structure has giant walls<br />

dotted with wooden beams that protrude<br />

through to the outside. The roof has several<br />

holes covered by terracotta lids, which<br />

serve as an inlet for fresh air during hot days.<br />

At the top of the pillars are conical towers<br />

capped with ostrich eggs — a symbol of fertility<br />

and purity.<br />

Ben Ezra Synagogue<br />

Egypt was once home to a thriving Jewish<br />

community of over 100,000 members. Now,<br />

following their mass exodus to Israel after<br />

1948, the numbers have dwindled to less<br />

than 50. But, the physical reminders of the<br />

North <strong>Africa</strong>n country’s rich Jewish history<br />

remain. Egypt is dotted with synagogues<br />

that attest to its Jewish past. One of these<br />

houses of worship is the 9th Ben Ezra Synagogue,<br />

originally a Christian church in the<br />

9th century. Located in Cairo, the synagogue<br />

is believed to be on the site where<br />

the pharaoh’s daughter found baby Moses<br />

in the reeds. The building has been renovated<br />

numerous times over the centuries. In<br />

the 12th century, it was restored by Abraham<br />

Ben Ezra, rabbi of Jerusalem. In 1890, a hoard<br />

of historic papers was discovered in the synagogue,<br />

revealing the history of the North<br />

<strong>Africa</strong>n Jewish community.<br />

Church of St. George<br />

The town of Lalibela, Ethiopia, is known for<br />

its extraordinary rock-hewn churches. Created<br />

between the 12th and <strong>13</strong>th centuries,<br />

the 11 medieval churches were carved out<br />

of volcanic tuff rock – each one is literally<br />

cut out of stone, with its roof on the level of<br />

the ground. The churches are testament to<br />

the supreme level of Ethiopia’s ancient architecture.<br />

The finest of these Christian sites<br />

is the Church of St. George, standing at approximately<br />

12 metres high. It boasts a roof<br />

in the form of a cross, three doors, an interior<br />

decorated with remarkably done murals<br />

and carvings, as well as several arch-shaped<br />

windows. Some of these windows feature<br />

cross motifs. The church, along with others,<br />

was the brainchild of King Gebre Mesqel<br />

Lalibela, who reigned from 1181 to 1221.<br />

Yamoussoukro Basilica<br />

At 158 metres high and with a capacity of<br />

18,000 people in the interior and 300,000 in<br />

the yard, the imposing edifice is the world’s<br />

largest Christian church, having surpassed St<br />

Peter’s in the Vatican upon its completion in<br />

1989. The Yamoussoukro Basilica was constructed<br />

with marble imported from Italy<br />

and boasts 5,000 shades of stained glass<br />

windows from France. Each of the church’s<br />

7,000 seats has its own conditioning system.<br />

The church was commissioned for by Cote<br />

Issue <strong>13</strong> | ...Celebrating the world’s richest continent | www.nomadafricamag.com | <strong>13</strong>


Top Left: The Nan Hua Temple in the bushveld town of<br />

Bronkhorstspruit, South <strong>Africa</strong>.<br />

Top Right: The Church of Our Lady Mary of Zion.<br />

Bottom Left: The Yamoussoukro Basilica, also known as Our Lady<br />

of Peace of Yamoussoukro Basilica located in Côte d’Ivoire.<br />

Bottom Right: The Nizamiye Mosque in Johannesburg, South<br />

<strong>Africa</strong>.<br />

d’Ivoire’s former President, Félix Houphouët-<br />

Boigny. Despite the country’s ironically small<br />

Christian population, the church has become<br />

a national pride and one of the most<br />

important Roman Catholic shrines in <strong>Africa</strong>.<br />

The Yamoussoukro Basilica took five years to<br />

build and came with a price tag of US $300<br />

million.<br />

Nan Hua Temple<br />

Looking at the Nan Hua Temple, you would<br />

be forgiven for thinking you are in ancient<br />

Asia. This elaborately decorated temple,<br />

which looks like it’s been cut out of a Chinese<br />

postcard, is located in the bushveld<br />

town of Bronkhorstspruit, South <strong>Africa</strong>. It<br />

covers 600 acres of land, making it the<br />

largest Buddhist temple and seminary in<br />

<strong>Africa</strong>. The Nan Hua Temple is the <strong>Africa</strong>n<br />

headquarters of the Fo Guang Shan, a Chinese<br />

Buddhist monastic order. The<br />

Bronkhorstspruit City Council donated the<br />

land to build the sanctuary in 1992, and construction<br />

began in October of the same year.<br />

The temple is open to visitors looking to immerse<br />

themselves in its peaceful splendour.<br />

There, you’ll find three large Buddha statues<br />

known as the Triple Gem Buddha. There’s<br />

also a meditation centre for anyone looking<br />

to absorb the transformational magic of the<br />

spiritual practice.<br />

Monastery of Saint Anthony<br />

As a nation deeply steeped in history, Egypt<br />

is home to some of the world’s best-known<br />

monuments. It is also where you’ll find the<br />

oldest monastery in the world: The<br />

Monastery of Saint Anthony. Planted deep in<br />

the Red Sea mountains, the church traces its<br />

origins back to the 4th century. The<br />

monastery was founded by the followers of<br />

Saint Anthony, the first Christian Monk. At the<br />

age of 34, Anthony chose to dedicate his life<br />

to God and started living a life of asceticism.<br />

He gave away his wealth and possessions to<br />

the poor and retreated to the desert, where<br />

he lived in solitude as a hermit. After about<br />

nine years in seclusion, the saint emerged<br />

from his retreat. In 3<strong>13</strong>, when Christian persecution<br />

ended, he relocated to a cave in a<br />

mountain in the Eastern Desert, where the<br />

Monastery of Saint Anthony was established.<br />

Over the years, the monastery was increased<br />

in size. Today, the main parts include<br />

the Church of St. Anthony, the Church<br />

of the Apostles, the Church of the Virgin, the<br />

New Church, the Fort, and a guesthouse.<br />

There’s also a library, which houses an immense<br />

body of manuscripts, and a museum,<br />

which chronicles the history of the site. The<br />

monastery offers guided tours to tourists<br />

and is inhabited by more than 100 monks<br />

who live a life of prayer in the solitude and<br />

stillness of the desert.<br />

The Great Mosque of Kairouan<br />

The UNESCO World Heritage city of<br />

Kairouan, Tunisia, harbours one of the most<br />

significant mosques in the world. The Great<br />

Mosque of Kairouan, founded in 670, is a<br />

treasure trove of history and is at the heart<br />

of the city’s heritage. The mosque also enjoys<br />

recognition as the oldest Muslim place<br />

of worship in <strong>Africa</strong>. The structure was originally<br />

built by a general named Uqba ibn<br />

Nafi as a Friday Mosque used for communal<br />

prayers on the Muslim holy day. The establishment<br />

has gone through several transformations<br />

over the years. It was rebuilt at least<br />

twice in the 8th century. In the 9th century,<br />

Prince Ziyadat Allah I tore down the mosque<br />

and rebuilt it in more stable materials of<br />

stone, brick, and wood. Covering 10,800<br />

square metres, the ancient mosque consists<br />

14 | www.nomadafricamag.com | ...Celebrating the world’s richest continent | Issue <strong>13</strong>


Top Left: The great mosque of Kairouan is a UNESCO<br />

Heritage site in the city of Kairouan, Tunisia. The city<br />

harbours one of the most significant mosques in the world.<br />

Top Right: The Monastery of Saint Anthony in Egypt.<br />

Top: The great mosque of Djenne.<br />

Far Left: Church of St. George is located in the town of<br />

Lalibela, Ethiopia. The town is known for its extraordinary<br />

rock-hewn churches. Created between the 12th and <strong>13</strong>th<br />

centuries, the 11 medieval churches were carved out of<br />

volcanic tuff rock – each one is literally cut out of stone.<br />

Left: Interior of the Ben Ezra Synagogue.<br />

of a courtyard, prayer hall with 17 naves and<br />

a pool known as the Old Cistern. The building<br />

is an architectural wonder that combines<br />

a range of influences, including pre-Islam,<br />

Eastern Islamic, Umayyad, Byzantine, and<br />

Roman.<br />

Church of Our Lady Mary of Zion<br />

Ethiopia’s Church of Our Lady Mary of Zion<br />

is one of the most famous churches in the<br />

world for a few reasons. It’s a historical treasure<br />

believed to have been built in the 4th<br />

century during the reign of Ezana, the first<br />

Christian King of Ethiopia. The church, located<br />

in the heritage city of Aksum, has<br />

been rebuilt several times since then. But<br />

despite its rich history, perhaps one thing<br />

that has made the structure known the<br />

world over is its claim that the church is in<br />

possession of the Ark of the Covenant. The<br />

legendary Ark is the gold-covered wooden<br />

chest that contains the Ten Commandments<br />

written on two stone tablets. For centuries,<br />

the holy object was kept in the Temple of<br />

King Solomon in Jerusalem. So how did it<br />

end up in Ethiopia? According to the Church<br />

of Our Lady Mary of Zion, the object was<br />

taken to the East <strong>Africa</strong>n country during the<br />

reign of King Menelik I, believed to be the<br />

son of the superbly wise King Solomon and<br />

the Queen of Sheba. Although the church<br />

claims to possess the Ark, its whereabouts<br />

remain a bone of contention among researchers<br />

and scholars alike. Proof of the<br />

holy object’s Ethiopian location is not readily<br />

available as no one can see it except for a<br />

solitary monk who guards it for life.<br />

Nizamiye Mosque<br />

Located in Johannesburg, South <strong>Africa</strong>, Nizamiye<br />

is believed to be the biggest mosque<br />

complex in the Southern Hemisphere. This<br />

religious centre was built by Turkish businessman<br />

and philanthropist, Ali Katircioglu<br />

in 2012. Nizamiye is fashioned after the 16thcentury<br />

Selimiye Mosque in Turkey, a building<br />

that showcases the spectacular<br />

Ottoman design. The mosque boasts 21<br />

domes, with the main one framed by four<br />

towering minarets. More than 200 stainedglass<br />

windows adorn the building. The interior<br />

is a breathtaking sight, featuring intricate<br />

hand-painted designs. The complex includes<br />

community facilities such as a school<br />

that takes 800 pupils, a clinic, conference<br />

rooms, shops, bakery, bookshop, and a<br />

restaurant.<br />

Jummah Masjid Mosque<br />

There’s more to Mauritius than just stunning<br />

beaches, lagoons and reefs. The island nation<br />

of 1.2 million people is made up of diverse<br />

traditions and religions, including<br />

Hinduism, Christianity, Islam, Buddhism, and<br />

others. One of the most prominent religious<br />

buildings in the Indian Ocean island is the<br />

Jummah Masjid Mosque, unmissable in the<br />

capital Port Louis. Formerly known as the<br />

Mosque of the Arabs, the edifice was built<br />

in the 1850s, combining Indian, Creole, and<br />

Islamic architecture. As the Muslim population<br />

grew in Port Louis, a larger mosque was<br />

needed. So, in 1857, more land was bought<br />

by Muslim merchants, leading to the expansion<br />

of the Jummah Masjid Mosque.<br />

Issue <strong>13</strong> | ...Celebrating the world’s richest continent | www.nomadafricamag.com | 15


PORT ELIZABETH<br />

A CITY WITH A BIG PERSONALITY<br />

My next turn was to the friendliest, pioneer people located in the<br />

Eastern Cape, Port Elizabeth (PE). About 16 kilometres away from the Algoa bay in South <strong>Africa</strong>.<br />

Words: LORRAINE MASEMOLA<br />

16 | www.nomadafricamag.com | ...Celebrating the world’s richest continent | Issue <strong>13</strong>


Gallivant South <strong>Africa</strong><br />

Issue <strong>13</strong> | ...Celebrating the world’s richest continent | www.nomadafricamag.com | 17


c<br />

hapman’s in a Humewood<br />

side trip is where<br />

you would probably be<br />

greeted by the warm<br />

smiles and the fresh<br />

smell of the ocean. Port<br />

Elizabeth is also known<br />

as the Ebayi, meaning (The bay) in Xhosa,<br />

and also as Nelson Mandela Bay, named<br />

after the famous late President Nelson Mandela.<br />

The best time to see this beautiful city,<br />

when the weather is at its best is during October<br />

to March. The busiest and most<br />

crowded months will be during January,<br />

August and September. Your accommodation<br />

rates are more likely to be expensive<br />

during these months. Humewood is surrounded<br />

by the blue flag beach and Hobie<br />

beach. It boasts a small specialist shop<br />

called Ocean Surf Store, where you can<br />

buy your swimming gear for ladies and<br />

gentlemen.<br />

Kings beach is excellent for people who<br />

want to do body surfing, long beach walks<br />

and sunbathing. It offers other facilities such<br />

as, the snack bar, changing area, life savers<br />

centre and parking area. Bayworld is where<br />

you find the Oceanarium, Snake Park, no.7<br />

castle hill, PE museum as well as the reptile<br />

park, which hosts lizards, snakes, tortoises<br />

and crocodiles.<br />

The Bayworld has other exhibits such as the<br />

dinosaur hall, maritime history hall, the marine<br />

hall, curiosity corner, the Xhosa gallery<br />

and the history of Algoa Bay. It opens from<br />

9am – 4:30pm Monday to Friday and is<br />

closed on weekends.<br />

Precious sites to see and most preferably<br />

enjoy is the beertopia, SA hot new food<br />

scene, cradle for creativity, visit the health<br />

spa, the shark rock pier, bottle nose dolphin<br />

capital of the world.<br />

Want to try something out of your comfort<br />

zone? Let a tour guide take you to the<br />

<strong>Africa</strong>n township called the Motherwell,<br />

where you can try the best South <strong>Africa</strong>n<br />

meat just prepared with hot water and salt<br />

‘iinyawo and umqala’ in Xhosa (chicken feet<br />

and necks). This dish is a definite come<br />

back for some more. At first you’d think<br />

“how does a person even eat such food?”<br />

but eventually after the first bite; you would<br />

want to start ordering more than you<br />

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Think you have seen enough elephants in your lifetime?<br />

Think again. The Addo National Park is most famous for its <strong>Africa</strong>n<br />

elephant population of over 500. The big Addo 7 is a tranquil and well<br />

conserved space for the elephant lovers.<br />

should. Be sure not to leave this city before<br />

having enjoyed the wildlife experience. For<br />

the little ones, there is a barn yard, where<br />

they can see the amazing animals. Think<br />

you have seen enough elephants in your<br />

lifetime? Think again. The Addo National<br />

Park is most famous for its <strong>Africa</strong>n elephant<br />

population of over 500. The big Addo 7 is<br />

a tranquil and well conserved space for the<br />

elephant lovers. There are also zebras, hippos,<br />

impala, rhinos, lions and several other<br />

great varieties. Restaurants such as the<br />

Vovo Telo, Muse restaurant and the Backstreet<br />

grill are not far from the Jewish Pioneer<br />

memorial museum. So do grab a bite<br />

and go sight-seeing. For people who want<br />

to study the history of the area, there are<br />

the old Eastern Cape houses and monuments<br />

sites such as, the Donkin reserve,<br />

The Addo big 7 elephant reserve, horse<br />

memorial, and fort Frederick, and the<br />

masjid ul Aziz. Each place has its own special<br />

history and thus it was one of my best<br />

places of visiting.<br />

I stayed at The Chapman’s hotel and conference<br />

centre, which was just a 10 minute<br />

drive from the Port Elizabeth airport, I<br />

would advise that you get an airport shuttle<br />

to drop you off as it is literally just 10 minutes<br />

away. This amazing accommodation<br />

is a short distance walk from the beach. It<br />

has the panoramic Indian Ocean view, outdoor<br />

pool, bar and restaurant. Spacious<br />

rooms with a satellite television, bedroom,<br />

private bathroom, in-room breakfast at<br />

your request and it is a five minute walk to<br />

Kings beach.<br />

Port Elizabeth can have rapidly changing<br />

weather conditions and get quite windy. It<br />

is known as the windy city, so don’t feel<br />

bad when some shops close early during<br />

the day. Most shops are more likely to<br />

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Donkin Lighthouse built in the late 1860-1880.<br />

close around 3pm. For people who love<br />

getting wet and enjoy the sea, there are<br />

various water activities that await you such<br />

as; water skiing, fishing, swimming, windsurfing,<br />

and scuba diving. Not a fan of the<br />

sea? That is also okay as there are activities<br />

on land that you can enjoy. Take a short<br />

walk up with the local Donkin Lighthouse<br />

which was built in the late 1860-1880. It is situated<br />

at about 10 kilometres away from the<br />

city and offers you a great view of the city.<br />

Other activities include the penguin patrol,<br />

horseback riding, Sacramento trail, animal<br />

touch farms, Humewood golf club. Should<br />

you be travelling with family and want to<br />

experience an activity that the whole family<br />

can take part in, come down to Planet<br />

Paintball. It offers the 6 combat arenas,<br />

shaded braai areas, covered seating, tuck<br />

shop, clean bathrooms, ample parking for<br />

the social, professional and corporate functions.<br />

Ever heard of the adrenalin Addo -<br />

the happy lands farm, Summerville Addo in<br />

Eastern Cape? Then ask your tour guide for<br />

more information regarding this exhilarating<br />

activity that will leave you breathless<br />

and pleased. Whilst queuing for my turn to<br />

experience this adrenalin Addo. I managed<br />

to get on and I must say it is the most<br />

breath taking enjoyable moment you could<br />

ever get. The adrenalin Addo is a 10 minute<br />

hike through the bush and it leaves from<br />

the departure tower to the 70 metres<br />

above the Sunday River. You can see the<br />

awesome view whilst on the zip line and it<br />

has brakes to best suit your cruising moment.<br />

The heavier you are, the faster it<br />

goes. There are three different tasks to pick<br />

from, the zip line, the canoeing and the<br />

giant swing.<br />

Port Elizabeth is the third largest port in<br />

South <strong>Africa</strong>. The city is not just about the<br />

sea but the historic hub, heritage trail, route<br />

67, private game reserves, Addo Elephant<br />

National Park, with affordable do it yourself<br />

and guided safaris. Port Elizabeth is one of<br />

the major cities in the Eastern Cape. This<br />

province lies between the Western Cape<br />

and the KwaZulu-Natal provinces and the<br />

capital is Bisho. There are many places to<br />

see in Port Elizabeth and many activities to<br />

do. The Tsitsikamma bungy jumping and<br />

the Otter trail are a few out of many other<br />

activities.<br />

Should you be on a strict budget, there are<br />

many fine spots in Port Elizabeth, where<br />

you can still go for a mouth-watering feast;<br />

such as your local plug, the valley market,<br />

hip Stanley Street, where there are over 15<br />

restaurants to choose from. Have a sweet<br />

tooth? Want to grab a bite at a delicious<br />

chocolate pudding and vanilla tart? Vovo<br />

Telo offers a wide range of menus to<br />

choose from. The bistro is open from 7am<br />

till 3pm. You surely don’t want to go home<br />

on an empty stomach, but with the last<br />

memory of why you need to return to this<br />

friendly city.<br />

PE in South <strong>Africa</strong> is well known for its warm<br />

welcome, its waterfront watersports,<br />

wildlife attractions, and friendly people. The<br />

tour bus that operates in Port Elizabeth is on<br />

standby between 8am until 3pm to assist<br />

you with all your tours and on budget and<br />

time. Do check online for bookings and<br />

schedules. Port Elizabeth is indeed one of<br />

the best cities in <strong>Africa</strong> and a city with a big<br />

personality.<br />

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MAGICAL<br />

MATJIESFONTEIN<br />

Some three hours outside of Cape Town lays a one-street town with<br />

a surprisingly rich history and a quaint charm of a bygone era. Blink and you<br />

might just miss it. This is Matjiesfontein. Located just a couple hundred metres off the<br />

N1, it is in the perfect position for road trip stopovers for anyone travelling<br />

between Cape Town and Bloemfontein or Johannesburg.<br />

Words by: JANINE AVERY<br />

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Gallivant South <strong>Africa</strong><br />

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however it’s also a great<br />

destination in its own<br />

right! This unique spot on<br />

the map of Southern<br />

<strong>Africa</strong> is a charming little<br />

place that is well worth<br />

the visit. Join us on a journey<br />

back in time as we find out why…<br />

The history of Matjiesfontein<br />

For such a small place, Matjiesfontein has<br />

a rich history linked to Britain, battles, politics<br />

and surprisingly – cricket! At the centre<br />

of the history of Matjiesfontein sits a<br />

man named James Douglas Logan. He<br />

was responsible for founding the town<br />

and it was his dream of a Victorian style<br />

town in South <strong>Africa</strong> that gave this quaint<br />

town its charming appeal today. In fact,<br />

he was so devoted to his vision that many<br />

of the town’s features came from the<br />

home of Queen and country - even the<br />

lampposts are imported from London.<br />

And while Logan was responsible for establishing<br />

the town, Matjiesfontein itself<br />

originally focused around one central<br />

structure. And here, where today you can<br />

see a bare patch of grass, there was once<br />

a lush cricket pitch. It was placed at the<br />

centre of the town and the initial plans for<br />

the town actually once included a swimming<br />

pool and a golf course, completing<br />

the sporting ideal. It is at this cricket pitch,<br />

where some of the first games between<br />

South <strong>Africa</strong> and Britain were held.<br />

But aside from having a flair for fun and<br />

games, Logan also had political aspirations<br />

and Matjiesfontein was once a<br />

haven for imperial troops. At one stage,<br />

there was once even 10,000 troops and<br />

20,000 horses camped around the town.<br />

Logan’s private home, surrounded by an<br />

exotic cactus garden, which you can still<br />

see in Matjiesfontein, was also the first<br />

house in South <strong>Africa</strong> to have its own<br />

electricity supply and its own telephone<br />

line. The man sure was ambitious!<br />

After the war, the town was all but forgotten,<br />

until it was bought by hotelier David<br />

Rawdon in 1968 and the entire village was<br />

declared a National Heritage Site in 1975.<br />

Today, the Rawdon family runs the town<br />

through a trust in partnership with The<br />

Collection by Liz McGrath. Thanks to this<br />

man’s vision, the entire village was restored<br />

to its former glory and centred on<br />

tourism with a coffee shop, bar and gift<br />

shop set in the old Post Office building.<br />

Today, most of the town’s 400 residents<br />

play a role in catering to the tourist trade<br />

that visit Matjiesfontein. One of the best<br />

ways to discover the history of Matjiesfontein<br />

is through the VoiceMap app,<br />

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which offers a free walking tour recorded<br />

by author Dean Allen. In fact, most of<br />

what I learnt about this quaint town and<br />

what is detailed here was through this 45<br />

minute sojourn around town!<br />

Our personal experience of the town<br />

Visiting the tiny town of Matjiesfontein<br />

was like being trapped in a time warp or<br />

stepping through the glass straight into<br />

some old photograph. Driving up the<br />

main street, the iconic Lord Milner dominated<br />

the landscape with its wide balconies<br />

and impressive façade. And<br />

parked outside its front in the dusty lot<br />

were vintage automobiles more than<br />

twice by age. My happy husband was instantly<br />

smitten.<br />

When I could drag him away from admiring<br />

the cars, we ventured forth to the<br />

towering Lord Milner. The picturesque<br />

building dates back to 1899 and was<br />

once the headquarters of those highranking<br />

army officials and even a British<br />

hospital. Stepping through the front<br />

doors of the lavish building, a sweeping<br />

red-carpeted staircase greeted us, invited<br />

us in and ever onward to our room.<br />

Here, a room almost the size of my<br />

whole house back in Cape Town greeted<br />

us with an even bigger balcony. And I<br />

knew that this was the epitome of luxurious<br />

living, with a touch of quaint Karoo<br />

country style, of course. I could just imagine<br />

that intrepid Logan sipping away on<br />

fine Scotch on the balcony as we waved<br />

the troops off to war.<br />

During our too-short stopover in Matjiesfontein,<br />

we just couldn’t get enough of<br />

the history of the town. After that interesting<br />

Voicemap tour of Matjiesfontein,<br />

we took in more of the old cars and trains<br />

at the transport museum, where we even<br />

got to step inside a traditional dining cart<br />

of old. We took some leisure time to<br />

browse through the variety of local arts<br />

and crafts in the gift shop and enjoy a<br />

drink in the Laird’s Arms. And then all the<br />

town’s visitors for the day were rounded<br />

up as we jumped on the famous red bus.<br />

This infamous tour is known as the shortest<br />

hop on, hop off bus tour in all the<br />

world. And it sure was a laugh a minute<br />

ride around the one street that makes up<br />

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For a longer stay, there is even a tennis court,<br />

where you can play a game or two, while a variety of<br />

interesting hikes and mountain biking trails go up into the<br />

Witteberg Mountains that flank the town, where you can<br />

discover a variety of fauna and flora.<br />

magical Matjiesfontein!<br />

However, the highlight of our stay had to<br />

be the homemade Karoo cuisine. Sitting<br />

down to dinner in the grandiose dining<br />

room at the Lord Milner, we were warmly<br />

greeted by a roaring fire and the beaming<br />

smile of one of the traditionally attired<br />

porters. And while my husband tucked<br />

into his much-anticipated slow cooked<br />

Karoo lamp roast, my mouth watered at<br />

the sight of my perfectly pink Springbok<br />

loin… and it did not disappoint! The following<br />

morning, after a restful night in our<br />

sumptuous abode, a buffet breakfast of<br />

epic proportions rivaled the meal of the<br />

night before and set us well on our way<br />

as we headed back to the road and the<br />

journey onwards.<br />

Other things you can do in Matjiesfontein<br />

While most of what Matjiesfontein has to<br />

offer can be breezed through in a couple<br />

hours, this little town is still well worth a<br />

stop over for a night, or even a relaxing<br />

weekend getaway. Really relaxing and<br />

enjoying the slow Karoo lifestyle is a treat<br />

for the soul. During your down time and<br />

to relieve the toll the busy national road<br />

can take on one’s patience, you can wile<br />

away the hours in the traditional coffee<br />

shop and bar or take a leisurely stroll<br />

through the magnificent gardens behind<br />

the hotel. And while Matjiesfontein occasionally<br />

experiences snow flurries in winter,<br />

the pool, watched over by a typical<br />

Karoo metal windmill, provides a cool<br />

respite from the scorching summer<br />

months.<br />

To spend some time in the footsteps of<br />

James Logan, you have to head for the<br />

Lord Milner’s opulent lounge and bright<br />

yellow room. Here you can sink into the<br />

plush chairs and see some relics from<br />

days gone past, including the original trophies<br />

from those famed South <strong>Africa</strong>-<br />

England cricket matches. If you keep a<br />

keen eye out for any movement in the<br />

shadows, you may even see the ghost of<br />

Lady Milner that is said to haunt these<br />

parts.<br />

For those who really want to be immersed<br />

in the history of the town, the<br />

Marie Rawdon museum is like heaven for<br />

antique junkies. Room after room houses<br />

an elaborate collection of everything and<br />

anything, including old cooking equipment,<br />

ancient density equipment, private<br />

letters, cameras from all ages, period<br />

clothing, penny-farthing bicycles, historical<br />

documents and more. This is one of<br />

the biggest privately owned museums in<br />

South <strong>Africa</strong> and one could get lost in the<br />

sheer magnitude of the collection that<br />

once belonged to David Rawdon himself.<br />

For a longer stay, there is even a tennis<br />

court, where you can play a game or two<br />

while a variety of interesting hikes and<br />

mountain biking trails go up into the Witteberg<br />

Mountains that flank the town<br />

where you can discover a variety of<br />

fauna and flora. Matjiesfontein also plays<br />

host to a number of interesting cooking<br />

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events and music festivals throughout the<br />

year or you can simply book out the entire<br />

town for your own celebration. And<br />

when the sun goes down, the stars put on<br />

their own show with Matjiesfontein offering<br />

such little light pollution. Head back to<br />

that bare cricket pitch if you really want to<br />

take in the heavens in all their splendour.<br />

When you do need to lay down your<br />

head, the town actually offers a few accommodation<br />

options to suit all budgets.<br />

Aside from the grand Lord Milner, you<br />

can stay at the Olive Schreiner Cottage,<br />

which was once the private home of the<br />

South <strong>Africa</strong>n author of the popular book<br />

“Once Upon a Farm”. For those who want<br />

to live life authentically, a number of suites<br />

are dotted around the town in the old historic<br />

buildings, such as the Post Office or<br />

in the Reston Villa, the original home of<br />

Logan’s son. Alternatively, check into the<br />

garden rooms at Matjies Motel and enjoy<br />

a drink as the sun goes down over the<br />

charming chapel.<br />

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Gallivant South <strong>Africa</strong><br />

Coming Home To<br />

MOUNT<br />

CAMDEBOO<br />

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Rounding the corner, we came face to face with a game drive vehicle.<br />

The guide had his hand out the window, fanning it up and down in an over<br />

exaggerated motion. He was gesturing for us to stop. Following his gaze and his<br />

now outstretched hand, which pointed to our left, we kept keen eyes trained on the<br />

bushes as we edged slowly forward. And as the last of the trees cleared from<br />

our view, we saw her.<br />

Words by: JANINE AVERY<br />

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not more than five metres<br />

from our vehicle lay a female<br />

cheetah, totally nonplussed<br />

by the excited<br />

humans staring at her.<br />

Cameras were quickly<br />

dug out of bags, joyous whispers were<br />

shared and thumbs ups and thank yous<br />

were offered to the guide. We had just arrived<br />

at the spectacular Mount Camdeboo<br />

Private Game Reserve and were enjoying<br />

our second introduction to what would be<br />

an out-of-this world safari in the Great Karoo.<br />

Earlier that day and an introduction to the area<br />

Our first introduction to the area was no less<br />

spectacular, and it too took our breath away.<br />

That is because not an hour earlier, we were<br />

soaring over the Camdeboo landscape in a<br />

helicopter with Fly Karoo.<br />

Taking off from the Graaff-Reinet golf<br />

course, the historical town dropping out<br />

below us, our jaws hung agape. The landscape<br />

stretched for miles in every direction,<br />

with undulating mountains breaking the flat<br />

plains.<br />

To our right, the Nqweba Dam bled into the<br />

Sunday’s River, which formed a natural<br />

horseshoe, giving Graaff-Reinet its unique<br />

shape. In the town itself, historical buildings<br />

lined the streets – Graaff-Reinet being home<br />

to more national monuments than any other<br />

city in South <strong>Africa</strong>. However, up ahead the<br />

Valley of Desolation is what really beckoned<br />

to us. And as our helicopter pilot swooped<br />

in for a closer look, we could see with<br />

minute clarity the stunning rock formations<br />

that make up this unique part of our country.<br />

Some 120 metres below us, the dolerites<br />

merged into the national park and tiny people<br />

taking selfies on the edge of these spectacular<br />

mountains came into view. But up<br />

close and personal for us was Spandau Kop,<br />

where we circled the summit of rugged<br />

rock, enjoying a bird’s eye view of this geological<br />

beauty. Up in the sky on that crystalclear<br />

day, the Karoo spread out below us, it<br />

dawned on me how little I knew about this<br />

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part of my own country. And what a real hidden<br />

gem it was turning out to be.<br />

Back at Mount Camdeboo Game Reserve<br />

After coming back to earth, both literally and<br />

figuratively, there was a short tar road and a<br />

45-minute dirt track before us, complete<br />

with jumping kudus, the cutest steenbok<br />

and even a majestic bird of prey or two, before<br />

we came face to face with that cheetah<br />

at Mount Camdeboo.<br />

Completely at ease in her desert landscape,<br />

we watched as she prepared for a hunt, before<br />

our tummies too were grumbling. Leaving<br />

our spotted friend behind, we pushed<br />

on to the manor house and our accommodation<br />

for the next two nights. Here, a high<br />

tea for two had been set up and we delighted<br />

in gourmet finger foods on the terrace<br />

of a place that already felt like home.<br />

Overlooking the lush green garden, mountains<br />

rose up in the distance and the 1800s<br />

Cape Dutch house sat behind us. Bathed in<br />

blissful luxury and enjoying the utter peace<br />

and quite, the uniqueness of this safari experience<br />

became clear.<br />

Mount Camdeboo wasn’t strictly developed<br />

to provide big-five seeking tourists with the<br />

safari experience. The property was actually<br />

privately owned as a holiday destination for<br />

one lucky farm-loving family.<br />

Today, the director and owner of the reserve<br />

(the son of the original owner) is still passionate<br />

about family and the Karoo. He has<br />

painstakingly tended to the old buildings<br />

and land so that they can resemble their<br />

glory days some 200 years back. Internal<br />

fencing has been removed, a number of<br />

game species have been reintroduced and<br />

the homesteads lovingly restored. However<br />

you won’t find any typical safari paraphernalia<br />

or thatched roofing here. It is as if this luxury<br />

oasis has somehow been dropped in<br />

from the streets of the Cape Winelands or<br />

the gardens of Constantia, offering a plush<br />

safari experience I never dreamed possible.<br />

And the opulence continued as we discovered<br />

we had our game drive vehicle all to<br />

ourselves.<br />

Travelling mid week in winter meant the<br />

property was quiet, but this personal experience<br />

is something that Mount Camdeboo<br />

endeavours to provide to each guest, no<br />

matter when you visit. If they can’t give you<br />

your own vehicle, they will pair you with likeminded<br />

guests, who are bound to become<br />

fast friends in no time at all.<br />

And with a number of different accommodation<br />

options spread out around the farm<br />

and only four rooms in that elegant manor<br />

house, it really is like you suddenly have<br />

friends with a safari ranch, rather than being<br />

guests at a hotel. The food is also an ab-<br />

From Graaff-Reinet you can either hop on a private<br />

helicopter with Fly Karoo and arrive at the reserve in<br />

pure style, a road transfer can be arranged or you can<br />

drive yourself. The last 45 minutes to the reserve is on<br />

a gravel road, but it is good enough to be managed by<br />

most cars and when you get there, all game drives are<br />

conducted in the reserve’s vehicles so you won’t need<br />

to use a car.<br />

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solute highlight of a stay here and our meals<br />

included three course decadent affairs with<br />

the meaty mains warming the spot. Gin and<br />

tonics are served mid way through game<br />

drives, with biltong and dried fruit snacks,<br />

while lavish lunches can be enjoyed under<br />

the trees in the garden.<br />

At the end of the evening, with full bellies<br />

and bleary eyes, the fire in the lavish lounge<br />

beckons, where Amarula is served from the<br />

self-help bar. This is the high life.<br />

The safari experience at Mount Camdeboo<br />

But it’s not just the magnificence of the accommodation<br />

that makes the safari experience<br />

at Mount Camdeboo so unique.<br />

Surrounded by dramatic mountain vistas,<br />

and located in one of the last areas of pristine<br />

natural beauty in South <strong>Africa</strong>, the environment<br />

is the reserve’s real calling card. In<br />

fact, the 14,000 hectare private game reserve<br />

was one of the first to sign into the Mountain<br />

Zebra-Camdeboo Protected Environment<br />

back in 2012 and it is pioneering an innovative<br />

programme that aims to preserve this<br />

beautiful natural environment for years to<br />

come, while promoting eco-tourism activities.<br />

A safari on the reserve is just as much about<br />

seeing cheetah, jackals and giraffe as is it is<br />

about taking in the natural beauty of the<br />

property. Here, every picture you take will<br />

be back-dropped by the most stunning<br />

mountain formations and soon enough you<br />

will find that the animals themselves actually<br />

play second fiddle to the majesty of what<br />

surrounds you. That is not to say there isn’t<br />

amazing wildlife to see here, Mount Camdeboo<br />

is home to a variety of unique species<br />

you won’t find in some of South <strong>Africa</strong>’s bigger<br />

game reserves, such as oryx, aardvark,<br />

sable and Cape mountain zebra. There are<br />

also plans underway to introduce lion and<br />

elephant to the reserve in the coming<br />

months, bringing the big five back to the<br />

karoo.<br />

The personal touch offered here means that<br />

you can tailor-make your drives according to<br />

what you want to see. For instance, our stay<br />

including visiting some cheetah cubs in the<br />

boma (they had been injured and abandoned<br />

and were being cared for before<br />

strong enough to release), tracking cheetah<br />

on foot, embarking on an epic 4x4 route to<br />

a magnificent look-out point over the mountains,<br />

searching for aardvark at night and<br />

even an overland adventure to see some of<br />

the old Anglo-Boer war sites that dot the<br />

property. While too cold to use during our<br />

time at the reserve, an inviting pool has great<br />

views of the mountains and looks like the<br />

ideal place to cool off in the heat of the summer.<br />

We also enjoyed a short walk through the<br />

gardens that stretch between the two<br />

manor houses and the reserve does have<br />

plans to extend these trails into a 1,6km safe<br />

running trail for the more active traveller. In<br />

addition, the team here can also organise<br />

private helicopter flights and tours to discover<br />

the history of Graaff-Reinet.<br />

Getting to Mount Camdeboo<br />

Off the beaten track, this part of the karoo is<br />

a must visit for any of South <strong>Africa</strong>n or international<br />

visitors to the country looking for<br />

something different.<br />

Lying almost mid way between the N1 and<br />

N2, it is the ideal road trip stop and a safari<br />

at Mount Camdeboo can easily be combined<br />

with a tour of the Garden Route or a<br />

longer trip to Johannesburg, the Drakensberg<br />

or Cape Town. Or simply visit for a<br />

magical weekend getaway to celebrate<br />

something special.<br />

For those who can’t face the long drive,<br />

Mount Camdeboo was also directly responsible<br />

for spearheading the launch of a new<br />

6-day weekly scheduled flight between Plettenberg<br />

Bay airport and Graaff-Reinet. From<br />

Graaff-Reinet, you can either hop on a private<br />

helicopter with Fly Karoo and arrive at<br />

the reserve in pure style, a road transfer can<br />

be arranged or you can drive yourself. The<br />

last 45 minutes to the reserve is on a gravel<br />

road, but it is good enough to be managed<br />

by most cars and when you get there, all<br />

game drives are conducted in the reserve’s<br />

vehicles so you won’t need to use a car.<br />

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36 | www.nomadafricamag.com | ...Celebrating the world’s richest continent | Issue <strong>13</strong>


Gallivant Tanzania<br />

KILWA KISIWANI<br />

RUINS OF EAST AFRICA’S GREATEST EMPIRE<br />

Eight hundred years ago, the Great Mosque of Kilwa was a spectacular tribute to<br />

the richest state on the East <strong>Africa</strong>n coast. Today it is a playground. The children are a ragtag<br />

bunch with split trousers, climbing over broken walls and running under ancient alcoves tinged<br />

yellow with age. They delight in the camera. They skip between old stone pillars, shout under the<br />

domed roof of the mosque, pose in the alcove, which faces Mecca, just to be seen through my lens.<br />

Their home is in the Unesco World Heritage Site of Kilwa Kisiwani, on the southern<br />

coast of Tanzania.<br />

Words & Photographs: MATHIEU DASNOIS<br />

Issue <strong>13</strong> | ...Celebrating the world’s richest continent | www.nomadafricamag.com | 37


the little village on the island in<br />

Kilwa Kisiwani is home to<br />

barely 1200 people, a tenth of<br />

the number who used to<br />

sleep behind its walls. Today,<br />

most survive on fishing and<br />

tourism. Kilwa was once a<br />

thriving port city straddling<br />

the trade lanes of East <strong>Africa</strong>,<br />

rich from the trade in Great Zimbabwe's<br />

gold.<br />

The city claimed dominion over most of the<br />

islands and city-states of the east coast, all<br />

the way to Mombasa in modern day Kenya,<br />

across to Madagascar, and south to Mozambique.<br />

The town’s wealth was legendary, mentioned<br />

by Milton in Paradise Lost; its beauty<br />

was praised by the Arab explorer Ibn Battuta<br />

and the Portuguese captain Francisco<br />

d'Almeida; it traded with the Middle East,<br />

India, and even China, as early as the 11th<br />

century. Today, the great round towers of<br />

the 18th century Omani fortress provide<br />

shade for boat repairs. We meet the children<br />

in the 12th century Great Mosque, playing<br />

unsupervised in their ruin. The Great Palace<br />

of Husuni Kubwa, also built in the 12th century,<br />

is only kilometres away, but we barely<br />

make it on foot.<br />

It is mid-morning during the hottest part of<br />

the year, and the heat is alive. A blanket of<br />

humidity, a tangible presence around us cut<br />

by rivers of sweat. It eventually inches into<br />

us as we dehydrate, invading our head with<br />

tendrils of pain starting above the neck and<br />

working forward.<br />

We guzzle our water as fast as we can, while<br />

our guide refuses any. He says he is fine and<br />

needs no water. I will come to miss this<br />

humid blanket when I leave Tanzania, but<br />

now I want only to hide from it. Along the<br />

narrow winding footpath we glimpse villagers<br />

drawing water from a centuries-old<br />

well, deeper and cleaner than the new one.<br />

Though these tours are touted as “community<br />

tourism” and the proceeds supposedly<br />

go back into the community, the people of<br />

the island are entirely uninvolved, and appear<br />

largely uninterested. Information about<br />

the village and villagers is given when asked,<br />

but not volunteered.<br />

Perhaps most tourists care only about the<br />

past. The palace, Husuni Kubwa, is disappointing.<br />

Of its one hundred rooms, courtyard<br />

and octagonal pool built on the ede of<br />

a cliff, only the foundations are visible. The<br />

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walls and roof are long gone. But what is clear is its<br />

scope. It was huge. There was probably a fishing<br />

community here before Persian settlers from Shiraz<br />

got rich taxing the trade of the Swahili coast. Fruit<br />

was grown locally as it is today. Meat was imported<br />

from the mainland, as it is today.<br />

Sail-powered mashua dhows still ply the channel between<br />

the village and the mainland, as they did then,<br />

carrying goods and people. Today, there are fish<br />

traps along the coast under the palace pool. Kilwa<br />

Kisiwani has gone from a small local fishing village,<br />

to a huge Persian trading hub, to a Portuguese outpost,<br />

to an Omani town, and back to a small fishing<br />

village.<br />

North of Kisiwani, is the sandy harbour town of Kilwa<br />

Kivinje, whose wealth was tied to the slave trade,<br />

long after its southern island neighbour had fallen to<br />

ruin. Caravans snaked across the dry hinterlands to<br />

the coast, where the slaves were packed into ships<br />

headed for Zanzibar, Madagascar or Reunion.<br />

Today's big jihazi dhows ply the waters to the north<br />

and south with very different cargo. Villagers walk at<br />

low tide to the dhows at the water’s edge, returning<br />

with bright green buckets filled with fish. Thousands<br />

of tiny black crabs scuttle across the sand.<br />

Families catch boat rides to the islands of Songo<br />

Songo or Mafia, or south to Lindi. The town bleeds<br />

history. Intricately carved doorways in the old Swahili<br />

style rot in the blistering sun, the old German boma<br />

has long lost its roof. Families have taken shelter in<br />

yesterday's colonial administration, a child shooing<br />

us away as we tentatively approach. Behind the<br />

boma are Swahili houses with broken walls, trees<br />

melting into walls melting back into trees, rubbish for<br />

floors. Pockmarked walls are a reminder of the mangrove<br />

poles that would once have supported a roof<br />

here, a stairwell there.<br />

Open stone stairs lead into broken archways, giving<br />

a view over nothing but broken walls. Residents<br />

wander through the ruins wearing bright yellow T-<br />

shirts made in China. Conservatively dressed Muslim<br />

women lead wide-eyed children, their toy a stick<br />

with a plastic water bottle at one end. We meet a<br />

local elder, Simba, who's name means “lion” in<br />

Swahili.<br />

He is a welcoming, kind, gentle, and bitter old man<br />

of 69 years. He has lived through colonialism to independence,<br />

Uhuru, to Nyerere's socialist Ujamaa,<br />

to the IMF-friendly policy that the country has today.<br />

In all these years, he says, through all these disparate<br />

policies, Kilwa Kivinje did not change. "I had<br />

a teacher, long time ago. He told me, we [<strong>Africa</strong>ns]<br />

just help each other to die. I remember... Now we<br />

are all waiting to die. There are no factories here, no<br />

work". He sees our fascination with his town, doesn't<br />

resent us for it, nor, I suspect, does he believe<br />

that a few factories will truly revive the picturesque<br />

old town's fortunes any more than will a few tourists.<br />

Issue <strong>13</strong> | ...Celebrating the world’s richest continent | www.nomadafricamag.com | 39


Sail-powered mashua dhows still ply the channel between the village and the<br />

mainland, as they did then, carrying goods and people. Today, there are fish traps<br />

along the coast under the palace pool. Kilwa Kisiwani has gone from a small local<br />

fishing village, to a huge Persian trading hub.


When we leave, he asks us for money, apologising<br />

as he does so. His tone suggests an<br />

intense dislike for this part of the 'job', and I<br />

suspect he would show us his town for free,<br />

if he could. The hub of the region now is<br />

Kilwa Masoko. Historically the least interesting<br />

of the three settlements, this is now<br />

where the money is. Masoko is the place to<br />

find a decent hotel, with a half-dozen<br />

beach resorts providing fishing trips, safaris<br />

to Selous game reserve, or excursions to<br />

the nearby islands. We stayed on the<br />

beach, in a bright blue chalet with wonderful<br />

sunrise views across the sea and excellent<br />

food, coconut calamari and grilled<br />

tuna. Cheaper but decent lodging can be<br />

found in town, where the few restaurants<br />

serve the standard fare of ugali (maize<br />

meal) or chips with some kind of meat in<br />

tomato sauce or fried fish. It is almost as<br />

good as it is cheap, and is eaten with the<br />

hands in the Swahili style. In sharp contrast<br />

to Kivinje, Masoko is modern, solid, and<br />

clean. Banks have replaced empty houses,<br />

restaurants have replaced crumbling walls,<br />

accountants saunter past the market in crisp<br />

suits. It's a useful gateway to the region in<br />

general and to Kisiwani in particular. It's<br />

from here that the local boats and the expensive<br />

tours from the big hotels leave for<br />

the old ruins. In the microscosm of time that<br />

is Kilwa, Masoko is the new, Kivinje is the<br />

old, and Kisiwani is the eternal.<br />

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Gallivant South <strong>Africa</strong><br />

FEEL @ HOME<br />

I N S O U T H A F R I C A<br />

I love to travel. For me, living out of a suitcase is a dream come true. Eating out at<br />

a different place every night, driving long distances over lonely roads, and even<br />

sipping on gin and tonics in airport lounges: these are the things I dream of. But I also<br />

understand what a blessing it can be, just to come home.<br />

Words: JANINE AVERY<br />

Issue <strong>13</strong> | ...Celebrating the world’s richest continent | www.nomadafricamag.com | 43


Molded by the airs and graces of fine dining establishments and world class hotels,<br />

both abroad and back home, William himself is a lover of all things luxurious. And<br />

it’s something I noticed as soon as I stepped through the door. Crystal chandeliers<br />

dripped with dainty hand-crafted flowers and an open plan kitchen looked out over<br />

a lounge to an infinity pool.<br />

there is nothing quite as relaxing<br />

as putting your feet up on<br />

a worn old coffee table at the<br />

end of a long journey, putting<br />

on those comfy pajamas and<br />

holey socks, and just chilling<br />

out. But what a pleasure when<br />

my two loves collide and I find<br />

a place far away from home,<br />

where I simply feel like I belong.<br />

There is no better place than one where<br />

newly met guides and guests, feel like long<br />

lost family members and staff quickly become<br />

the best of friends. Its gems like these<br />

that South <strong>Africa</strong> offers in abundance and<br />

on my recent trips I discovered just a few of<br />

these unique properties. Let me introduce<br />

you to just a few of them…<br />

Something delicious in Simon’s Town<br />

Drive through the historic town of Simon’s<br />

Town and you will be transported into a<br />

world where old-timey naval history combines,<br />

with natural attractions, such as the<br />

penguins at Boulders or even swimming<br />

with seals.<br />

Located high up on a hill, with the most<br />

spectacular views of the bay, is a guesthouse<br />

quite unlike any other. It is here,<br />

where I met Monsieur William French.<br />

Molded by the airs and graces of fine dining<br />

establishments and world class hotels,<br />

both abroad and back home, William himself<br />

is a lover of all things luxurious. And it’s<br />

something I noticed as soon as I stepped<br />

through the door. Crystal chandeliers<br />

dripped with dainty hand-crafted flowers<br />

and an open plan kitchen looked out over<br />

a lounge to an infinity pool.<br />

This in turn overlooked the ocean. But it was<br />

opulent without being stuffy. A chatty Chihuahua<br />

yipped at my heels and I was<br />

warmly enveloped by, not only the home<br />

and my beautiful room, but William himself<br />

who is the highlight of a stay here. The<br />

evening was spent flitting between kitchen<br />

and dining room as William cooked up a<br />

storm in his very own house.<br />

Guests from near and far joined the conversation<br />

as we discussed everyone’s plans for<br />

the next day. Plopping down into a beanbag<br />

to enjoy a cup of tea out of a hand<br />

painted cup as dark clouds rolled in over<br />

the ocean, I wrapped my duvet around me<br />

and couldn’t have felt calmer, sitting in the<br />

eye of the storm as the lightning lit up the<br />

sky.<br />

A homely manor in Hout Bay<br />

The republic of Hout Bay is a hidden gem<br />

onto itself. Nestled between the sprawling<br />

winelands of Constantia and the epic vistas<br />

offered by the Cape Town peninsula road,<br />

this tiny suburb has so much to offer.<br />

Whether you’re sailing on its seas, tasting<br />

treats at the local brewery or discovering<br />

the scenery on the back of an e-bike or<br />

horse, Hout Bay will leave you enchanted at<br />

every turn. And just where the mountains<br />

roll into the valley, lays an elegantly refurbished<br />

Cape Dutch manor house.<br />

Stepping through the doors of Riverside<br />

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The Drakensberg is one of South <strong>Africa</strong>’s premier tourist attractions, but visiting<br />

this monumental mountain range can be headache-inducing. There are so many different<br />

sections to choose from (North, Central or South), each one offering a unique<br />

feel, a wide array of hotels and guesthouses and so many adventurous activities.<br />

Boutique Hotel, I immediately felt welcome.<br />

My puppy-loving self was delighted<br />

to find not one, not two, but six lovable<br />

dogs all lounging around in the warmth of<br />

the foyer. Stepping over them to reach the<br />

reception desk, each one vying for some<br />

attention, I knew I couldn’t help but be<br />

happy here.<br />

In the room next door, the fire place was<br />

going, wine was flowing and the flamboyant<br />

manager provided great conversation.<br />

And while for many a tourist this secret gem<br />

may seem at first like it’s a bit out of the<br />

way, the Cape Town city sightseeing bus<br />

stops right outside. You don’t even need a<br />

car to explore the surroundings or get into<br />

town to experience the sights and sounds!<br />

What a pleasure after a tiring day on my<br />

feet to escape to a tranquil haven, where<br />

the sounds of the birds and bees and the<br />

wind in the trees, lulled me to sleep.<br />

Up in the trees, with a mountain view<br />

The Drakensberg is one of South <strong>Africa</strong>’s<br />

premier tourist attractions, but visiting this<br />

monumental mountain range can be<br />

headache-inducing. There are so many different<br />

sections to choose from (North, Central<br />

or South), each one offering a unique<br />

feel, a wide array of hotels and guesthouses<br />

and so many adventurous activities.<br />

It is enough to leave you totally bewildered.<br />

However, the minute I met Chris and<br />

Magda Hearne who live in the Drakensberg,<br />

I had an inkling I was on to something<br />

special. They are passionate about the little<br />

piece of heaven they get to call home and<br />

one question about visiting the Drakensberg<br />

had them all fired up. Ideas were flowing<br />

and somewhere in there it was<br />

mentioned that Chris had handcrafted a<br />

Issue <strong>13</strong> | ...Celebrating the world’s richest continent | www.nomadafricamag.com | 45


Not all safaris are created equal. With so many<br />

magnificent lodges dotting the Kruger National Park, Sabi<br />

Sands, Timbavati and endless surrounding game reserves,<br />

finding the perfect safari spot can be like picking a<br />

needle out of a haystack.<br />

wooden treehouse on his property. I simply knew I had to see it.<br />

Chris’ descriptions didn’t do it justice and while I had expected a<br />

little rough and tumble cottage on stilts, what greeted me was a<br />

pure masterpiece. Standing on the wooden deck of this allwooden<br />

house in the trees, the views were the cherry on top. The<br />

Bahati Tree Lodge sits on the Hearne’s property and I felt like I had<br />

the place to myself as I enjoyed a Jacuzzi bath, marveling at the<br />

tree, which runs clear through the bathroom, before relaxing with<br />

a glass of wine, looking over the lake and onto Cathkin Peak beyond.<br />

As they run the local tourist office, staying with the Hearnes also<br />

provided the best local experience money could buy. They knew<br />

exactly, which activities were right for us, where and what to eat<br />

and the easiest walks for us not-so-fit travellers to enjoy.<br />

Tented wonders in the Timbavati<br />

Not all safaris are created equal. With so many magnificent lodges<br />

dotting the Kruger National Park, Sabi Sands, Timbavati and endless<br />

surrounding game reserves, finding the perfect safari spot can be<br />

like picking a needle out of a haystack. From tented camps, to selfcatering<br />

bungalows and even big five star hotels, the options are<br />

a dime a dozen.<br />

Touching down in the Timbavati, I immediately felt like I was at<br />

home. Our car had given endless troubles on the way, but a quick<br />

call to Tanda Tula and problem sorted – the manager himself<br />

would come and collect us! Owned by one lovely couple, and<br />

managed by another, this tented camp offers all the trimmings and<br />

delights you would expect from a top-notch safari lodge with one<br />

added bonus – guides and staff that you can call family. During our<br />

short time at the lodge, we enjoyed many a laugh with our field<br />

guide, while looking out for leopards, sipped Amarulas and chatted<br />

about the trials and tribulations of raising a family in the bush with<br />

the managers and learnt how to cook a fine fillet, while dealing with<br />

trouble-making honey badgers with the lodge’s resident chef. The<br />

East-<strong>Africa</strong>n style tent we stayed in was just one of twelve so even<br />

through the camp was full, as it so often is; we were guaranteed a<br />

personal experience and an intimate stay. And if you really want to<br />

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not only feel at home, but escape to a location,<br />

where your friends and families are<br />

the only other guests, then they have a remote<br />

field camp for people who want to<br />

do just that!<br />

A magical town steeped in history<br />

Many a traveller probably doesn’t even<br />

know that Matjiesfontein exists but those<br />

who do visit will discover something extraordinarily<br />

special. Here in the Karroo<br />

lies a tiny town that seems to have been<br />

forgot by time. Home to a car museum,<br />

old train station and a street of old buildings<br />

- from a cute coffee house to an old<br />

post office, this one horse town is a must<br />

stop on any road trip.<br />

Stepping through the doors of the proclaimed<br />

grand old dame of the town, the<br />

Lord Milner Hotel, a sweeping red staircase<br />

beckoned me in. Climbing the stairs<br />

to our room, tales of ghost stories and<br />

haunted houses wafted through my ears.<br />

Looking at my four poster bed whose<br />

bedspread matched the drapes, and the<br />

black and white checked bathroom, it was<br />

like being back at my grandma’s house –<br />

only better! As a man in top and tails took<br />

us on a tour of the town, serenaded us in<br />

the bar and showed us photos of his family,<br />

many of who had worked at the hotel<br />

over various generations, I couldn’t help<br />

but smile.<br />

As dawn greeted me the following day<br />

and I stepped out onto the massive balcony,<br />

crafted way back when in 1899, I realised<br />

that homely hospitality really isn’t<br />

that hard to find. You just have to know<br />

where to look!<br />

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FROM<br />

GRAPE TO GLASS<br />

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Food & Wine<br />

Issue <strong>13</strong> | ...Celebrating the world’s richest continent | www.nomadafricamag.com | 49


Fryerscove is considered one of the second best-selling wines in South <strong>Africa</strong>.<br />

The wine brand has been in existence since the past 14 years. The wine company<br />

itself called Vinimark, was formed by Tim Rands in 1985 and has become the largest<br />

independent wine specialist company in South <strong>Africa</strong>, marketing, distributing and<br />

selling more than 50 of the country’s best-known wine brands.<br />

Words: LORRAINE MASEMOLA<br />

the company is also the sole<br />

distributor of a number of<br />

exclusive French champagnes<br />

as well as the popular<br />

FAT Bastard wine range in<br />

the region.<br />

Headquartered in Stellenbosch,<br />

the company has regional<br />

sales management,<br />

warehousing and administration teams in<br />

the major centres, offering a professional<br />

and nationwide footprint and service.<br />

“Our success lies in the fact that we’re focused<br />

solely on the wine category. This<br />

single-mindedness has allowed us to<br />

gain extensive wine industry operational,<br />

distribution, marketing and sales experience.<br />

We couple our creative excellence,<br />

foresight and business acumen with an<br />

extensive and dynamic wine portfolio,”<br />

says Francois Janse Van Rensburg, the<br />

marketing manager of the company.<br />

<strong>Nomad</strong> <strong>Africa</strong> recently witnessed the unfolding<br />

of the new Doringbay wine label<br />

launch. To commemorate the event, the<br />

company released the Doringbay Sauvignon<br />

Blanc with a different packaging.<br />

Doringbaai is a city in West Coast District<br />

Municipality of the Western Cape<br />

province in South <strong>Africa</strong>. Naming the<br />

wine Doringbay was a unique way to attract<br />

people who might not be able to<br />

pronounce it. The white wine went with<br />

food pairings; goat cheese with beetroot.<br />

The wine costs about R95 ($6.71) in a grocery<br />

store. It has a fantastic tinder fresh,<br />

crisp, steely, grassy, ripe, tangy, tropical<br />

fruit taste.<br />

The Doring bay is home location for the<br />

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fryer’s cove winery. The winery is<br />

perched on the jetty that juts into the<br />

cold South Atlantic Ocean. The unique<br />

winery building is an old crayfish factory.<br />

The salty minerality are observed, there<br />

is currently less than 100 bottles shelved<br />

in stores at the moment. The wines are<br />

premium range from the hectares in<br />

Cape Town, Western Cape in South<br />

<strong>Africa</strong> and are packaged in a batch of six.<br />

Bamboes bay (Sauvignon Blanc) costs<br />

about R260 ($18.36) per bottle. It costs a<br />

bit more than other wines in its range because<br />

of its exclusive taste. Recommended<br />

to be served with oysters, each<br />

bottle comes in unique packages. Inside<br />

the package is a nicely placed handwritten<br />

letter from the maker himself thanking<br />

the customer for purchasing his wine.<br />

The Hollebaksstrandfontein wine costs<br />

about R295 ($20.83). It is best served with<br />

poached salmon and guacamole.<br />

Strandfontein is also a location in the<br />

West Coast District Municipality of the<br />

Western Cape province in South <strong>Africa</strong>. A<br />

small sea side village situated at the<br />

mouth of the Olifants river. It has evolved<br />

from a small area to a bustling tourist hub.<br />

The final wine, The Bamboes Bay (Pinot<br />

noir) wine being the red wine, costs<br />

about R295 ($20.83). The wine has been<br />

harvested in recent years. It is best<br />

served with mushroom risotto spiced<br />

duck. The wine is best when kept for at<br />

least two years before its release. It is also<br />

believed that red wines have better<br />

health benefits than white wines. The fine<br />

red grapes are ripe and handpicked at<br />

optimum sugar levels. The resultant<br />

berries are healthy and well packed with<br />

flavour.<br />

The wine maker’s expectation was to exceed<br />

customer’s expectation and be<br />

voted second best wine maker on the<br />

continent. “We strive to promote a culture<br />

of responsible wine consumption as<br />

part of the enjoyment of life. Our<br />

founder's enthusiasm for wine and dedication<br />

to service excellence is entrenched<br />

in our culture and we aim, with<br />

the support of our suppliers, to continue<br />

in this vein for many years to come,” Francois<br />

Janse Van Rensburg concluded.<br />

Fryerscove is a well-known wine brand in<br />

stores across South <strong>Africa</strong>. Want to have<br />

a delightful taste of these unique wines?<br />

Be sure to visit www.fryerscove.co.za.<br />

Issue <strong>13</strong> | ...Celebrating the world’s richest continent | www.nomadafricamag.com | 51


Existence<br />

AFRICA’S<br />

THE DOMBA<br />

TRADITIONAL DANCE OF MAGICAL VENDA<br />

All roads lead to the Venda land annually. The trip to this magnificent place is gratifying.<br />

It took me about close to six hours from Johannesburg, which is 437 kilometres to actually<br />

set foot on the fine dusty roads of the Vhavenda tribe, well known as the Vhagona.<br />

Words: LORRAINE MASEMOLA<br />

having stayed at the<br />

Mashovela bush<br />

lodge which is located<br />

on the Louis<br />

Trichadt, Southpansberg<br />

Mountain,<br />

Makhado just near the<br />

magnificent view of<br />

the satisfactory mountains<br />

and the nature on its own was<br />

breath-taking. This lodge is divided<br />

into different rondavels that have their<br />

own fencing. The lodge is a few kilometres<br />

away from the shopping malls,<br />

banks, ATMs (automated teller machine),<br />

bars, post offices and the airport.<br />

I hoped that this will be one of my<br />

best trips, yet scary too, considering<br />

the fact that most people believe that<br />

you have a 50/50 chance of making it<br />

back alive from this destination. I am<br />

on a journey to witness the annual<br />

Domba (python dance) traditional<br />

dance ceremony of the Venda tribe.<br />

The Venda (Vhavenda or Vhangona)<br />

are a Southern <strong>Africa</strong>n people living<br />

mostly near the South <strong>Africa</strong>n-Zimbabwean<br />

border. The bantustan of Venda<br />

was created to become a homeland<br />

for the Venda people. The Venda people,<br />

like their Tsonga neighbours, are<br />

one of South <strong>Africa</strong>'s minority groups,<br />

they currently number 700 000 in<br />

Limpopo Province, while the Tsonga at<br />

their doorsteps number 900 000 people,<br />

also in Limpopo province.<br />

Women of this tribe are taught to behave<br />

in a certain way, especially when<br />

addressing, greeting or giving food to<br />

the opposite gender. When handing<br />

over food to men, the woman needs<br />

to place the bowl on the floor or table<br />

and bow down. It is only once the man<br />

is happy with the food that the woman<br />

may get up and leave.<br />

The cultural practice also forbids<br />

women to look men in their eyes, especially<br />

when talking to a man. This, in<br />

turn, shows respect for the men and<br />

the elders. Only men are allowed to<br />

be the heads of the family units.<br />

Married women are required by tradition<br />

to feed their husbands at all times,<br />

even when he comes back home late.<br />

She is expected to get a bowl of water<br />

and cloth for him to wash his hands<br />

and bow down after giving him his<br />

plate. She must wait for him to finish<br />

eating then takes away the dishes and<br />

wash them clean. She may only go to<br />

sleep when her husband notifies that<br />

it is okay for her to go to bed.<br />

Young women are taught this practice<br />

from a tender age and they are required<br />

to learn from their mothers on<br />

how to behave in front of their husbands<br />

and elders.<br />

The Domba (python dance) traditional<br />

dance is held once yearly at the Fundudzi<br />

lake, which lies between Thohoyando<br />

and Louise Trichadt. This is<br />

where the Venda women go for initiation.<br />

At the initiation ceremonies, these<br />

women form a long sequence, singing<br />

and dancing around in a circle, holding<br />

each other’s elbows, wearing small<br />

aprons that cover the back and front<br />

with tasselled ornaments called the<br />

Thahu.<br />

Only young women who have started<br />

their menstruation cycles and have<br />

been perceived as mature, strong<br />

woman are allowed to take part in the<br />

rituals. The significance of this is so<br />

that they can bring good luck for the<br />

next seasonal rain and the ritual is<br />

above all, their preparation for womanhood.<br />

The Venda culture is built on a vibrant<br />

mythical belief system that water is an<br />

important theme. The tribe believes<br />

that rivers and lakes are sacred and<br />

that rains are controlled by the python<br />

God. One of the most sacred sites of<br />

the Venda is the Lake Fundudzi. Here<br />

annually, the Domber python dance is<br />

held. An offering of beer is poured<br />

into the lake and young maidens at the<br />

final stage of their initiation into womanhood<br />

line up in a single line and<br />

dance in long winding lines.<br />

Trips to the lake are rarely granted to<br />

visitors, which is probably just as well<br />

Issue <strong>13</strong> | ...Celebrating the world’s richest continent | www.nomadafricamag.com | 53


as it is said to be infested with crocodiles.<br />

So sacred is the lake that the<br />

newcomers have to turn their backs on<br />

the lake and view the water from between<br />

their legs. The experience was<br />

very scary, especially when you are<br />

told the story behind what would happen<br />

and the past outcomes of the<br />

people who visited the same place.<br />

Drums are often given personal names<br />

and are always played by women and<br />

girls, except in possession dances<br />

when a man may play them.<br />

The drums form an important part of<br />

the Venda culture and symbols linked<br />

to them.<br />

Women are seen as the pure people<br />

for their manner of respect towards<br />

people in and around the Limpopo<br />

province. The women here are very far<br />

different from any other culture; they<br />

will lie on the ground and greet you.<br />

The Tshikanda ladies go to the lake<br />

once every year to perform rituals to<br />

thank the ancestors. They come out in<br />

large numbers and most of the time,<br />

the chief will be there to celebrate this<br />

awesome event with his/her people. In<br />

this specific culture, a chief can also be<br />

a woman. They believe woman can<br />

lead the throne because of their strong<br />

personality and respect, they are capable<br />

of leading the people. There are<br />

other rituals in this culture such as the<br />

Vhusha, where a girl needs to go for a<br />

virginity test as soon as she is consid-<br />

54 | www.nomadafricamag.com | ...Celebrating the world’s richest continent | Issue <strong>13</strong>


Drums are often given<br />

personal names and are always<br />

played by women and girls,<br />

except in possession dances,<br />

when a man may play them.<br />

The drums form an important<br />

part of the Venda culture and<br />

symbols linked to them.<br />

ered mature and has started her cycle.<br />

The beautiful Venda culture may go<br />

hand-in-hand with other South <strong>Africa</strong>n<br />

cultures, mostly Zulu/Swati, where<br />

they also perform virginity rituals for<br />

young females called the<br />

Umhlanga/Reed dance. The dance<br />

celebrates her womanhood and at the<br />

ceremony, men attend the occasion<br />

particularly to pick a wife.<br />

Being part of this wonderful ceremony,<br />

where you get to witness this<br />

old tradition is a fantastic experience,<br />

especially for a woman like myself.<br />

Being celebrated by the majority is<br />

something phenomenal and it is important<br />

to say that there is no other<br />

feeling like seeing a man respect and<br />

honour his woman.<br />

Domba is a very sanctuary moment<br />

for the Venda people. They celebrate<br />

and embrace their culture and traditions,<br />

thus passing it down to generations<br />

to come.<br />

If you want to see and experience this<br />

phenomenal culture, do remember to<br />

visit the North Eastern region of South<br />

<strong>Africa</strong>. You will learn to appreciate not<br />

only their culture, but the fine land and<br />

colour it brings.<br />

I do have to say that there is nothing<br />

as fulfilling as being invited and experiencing<br />

this beautiful moment. The<br />

Venda culture is one that I truly love<br />

and respect.<br />

Issue <strong>13</strong> | ...Celebrating the world’s richest continent | www.nomadafricamag.com | 55


MEET THE<br />

SHONA TRIBE:<br />

ZIMBABWE’S LARGEST ETHNIC GROUP<br />

For decades, the Shona people have been our most incendiary tribe,<br />

all thanks to former President Mugabe. But while a long history of countless<br />

national failures, the Shona people have long been adored as the smartest and<br />

most peaceful <strong>Africa</strong>ns. While they have remained aloof, enigmatic and outside<br />

the star system, I went on an epic journey of cultural discovery for an<br />

unexpected epiphany.<br />

Words: MIRIRO MATEMA<br />

56 | www.nomadafricamag.com | ...Celebrating the world’s richest continent | Issue <strong>13</strong>


To many, the afterlife is a different state of<br />

the same existence, just as water can be a<br />

solid and a gas at one stage or another.<br />

These spiritual ancestors, “Vadzimu” play an<br />

important role in society, who not only stand<br />

as mediums between the people and their<br />

ancestors, but also to their god, “Mwari”.<br />

The Shona also believe the vadzimu are<br />

good spirits that protect the family. They influence<br />

the day-to-day lives of their descendents.<br />

They give and take, reward and<br />

punish, protect or leave you vulnerable. One<br />

of the most important ceremonies in Shona<br />

culture is called “Kurova guva”, which literally<br />

translates to “beating the grave”, but technically<br />

means “welcome the spirit home”.<br />

This all night ritual usually occurs a year after<br />

the passing of a loved one and symbolises<br />

the concept of life after death and the integration<br />

of the living with the deceased. Another<br />

highlight of the Shona tribe and the<br />

longevity of their culture is the Totem, or in<br />

other words, the family crest. Sigmund Freud<br />

in his book Totems and Taboo defined a<br />

totem as an animal either edible or harmless<br />

or dangerous and feared, more rarely it is a<br />

plant or a force of nature (rain, water), which<br />

stands in a peculiar relation to the whole<br />

clan. You’ll find this same dynamic culture<br />

flamboyantly shown in Polynesian and Native<br />

American tribes too. Known as Mutupo,<br />

the totems identified clans within the tribe either<br />

through an animal or a body part for exi<br />

first realised my knowledge of<br />

<strong>Africa</strong>n culture had changed dramatically<br />

while sitting outside a pub<br />

a few weeks ago. It was the point<br />

on a Friday night when drinks begin<br />

to linger on the table as everyone<br />

privately debates whether to go<br />

home. It wasn't a moment worth<br />

remembering, but when someone<br />

wearing a brightly coloured blazer with<br />

matching shoes began to dance, everyone<br />

tried to figure out, where they were from<br />

and what kind of fabric they were wearing.<br />

Glasses were moved aside and hand gesturing<br />

became the hallmark of a deep conversation.<br />

Once I'd seen how visible and<br />

existentially critical this conversation was to<br />

my own identity, I saw it in everything: the<br />

sweat inducing dance-floor performances,<br />

the body language among friends, the<br />

heart-warming prayers of faithful believers.<br />

If you pulled back the curtain, I wondered,<br />

how much of our traditional culture has impacted<br />

our modern behaviour?<br />

I needed to know more about my heritage,<br />

and more importantly, how that culture has<br />

changed me and the more than 9 million of<br />

us around the world. In an effort to discover<br />

my roots and attract a different perspective,<br />

I opted for the spontaneous and ephemeral<br />

counsel of renowned <strong>Africa</strong>n journalist, Godfrey<br />

Mutizwa. Like most things do, in the soft<br />

light of a relaxed Tuesday morning, I got my<br />

chance fuelled by irrational optimism and<br />

unlimited time. “I heard about this thing,” I<br />

say to him, “that Shona people do.”<br />

He raises an eyebrow and takes another<br />

glug of coffee: “Before we jump onto the<br />

technical aspects, how about we start from<br />

the beginning?” Good point.<br />

The Shona tribe, whether by nature or by design,<br />

are a peaceful group of people who<br />

don’t stray too far away from home, having<br />

the most populations in neighbouring countries<br />

like Botswana, Zambia and South <strong>Africa</strong>.<br />

Meanwhile back home, those who held their<br />

ground through the worst of storms, represent<br />

a whopping 80% of the Zimbabwean<br />

population. And if that wasn’t fascinating<br />

enough, I discovered that the word “Shona”<br />

came into effect in the 19th century due to<br />

this tribe’s skill of disappearing and hiding in<br />

caves when attacked. As such, the infamous<br />

ruler Mzilikazi named them amaShona,<br />

“those who disappear”.<br />

The Shona tribe as we know them, are a<br />

merger between five uniquely similar language<br />

groups, that is, Korekore, Zezuru,<br />

Manyika, Ndau, and Karanga. Like many languages,<br />

“deep” Shona, which is rich in<br />

proverbs and has a vocabulary all its own, is<br />

the language of spirituality and art. Speaking<br />

of spirituality, it is said more than 60% of the<br />

population is Christian. Despite this, traditional<br />

beliefs such as ancestral “worship” and<br />

totemism are still an integral part of society.


Traditionally, the mbira had many uses. Its’ arresting melodies<br />

were required to bring rain during drought, chase away harmful spirits<br />

and cure illnesses. The mbira was played as a celebration at<br />

weddings and to guide wandering spirits at funerals.<br />

58 | www.nomadafricamag.com | ...Celebrating the world’s richest continent | Issue <strong>13</strong>


Issue <strong>13</strong> | ...Celebrating the world’s richest continent | www.nomadafricamag.com | 59


ample Mbizi (Zebra), Shumba (Lion) or Moyo<br />

(Heart). Totems in Zimbabwe are not a thing<br />

of the past despite the changes that have<br />

come with time. Many people are still identified<br />

by their respective totems.<br />

For example, it is used in addressing people,<br />

by and large the elders, and is associated<br />

with family dignity and respect. It has also<br />

been used in praise poetry, thanksgiving and<br />

even in times of mourning. It is critical to<br />

know which totem one belonged to, as people<br />

from the same clan are deemed to be related<br />

and as such, cannot marry. Imagine that<br />

awkward situation after a handful of delightful<br />

first dates. But there was merit to their distaste<br />

for inter-totem unions. Firstly, it was<br />

thought to result in a weaker species being<br />

born. Besides being physically weak, such<br />

children were usually a source of trouble to<br />

the parents and society at large.<br />

Long ago, when traditions were strictly adhered<br />

to, a marriage of that nature would require<br />

a special cleansing ceremony to<br />

solemnise the union in order to appease the<br />

ancestral spirits who would have been angered<br />

by such unbecoming behaviour.<br />

The ceremony included among other rituals,<br />

the slaughtering of a white beast; referred to<br />

as “mombe yecheka hukama”. It signified the<br />

termination of all relations between the two<br />

wedded parties in as far as the totem was<br />

considered. “And you must know,” Godfrey<br />

continues, “how important that is for roora<br />

negotiations.” Of course. I have attended a<br />

few in my day and this part I am quite familiar<br />

with. Roora or more commonly known as<br />

lobola/dowry, is the gift a man pays to his future<br />

bride’s family in exchange for her hand<br />

in marriage.<br />

Common across Southern <strong>Africa</strong>, this ceremony<br />

takes place in a number of stages and<br />

each stage has its own traditions and small<br />

amounts to pay. Often a lengthy a complex<br />

process, the roora is never paid in full or at<br />

once. Traditionally, cattle were the currency<br />

of the age and it goes without saying, the<br />

more you owned, the wealthier you were.<br />

With this in mind, roora was paid in cows.<br />

Though the practice is declining somewhat<br />

in my generation, the negotiation and payment<br />

of roora is still by far the most widely<br />

observed and socially significant traditional<br />

ceremony. Sure, the religious and civil marriage<br />

ceremonies may be performed in addition<br />

to roora, but these ceremonies are<br />

considered as incidental or extra. no substitute<br />

for the more meaningful, socially binding<br />

traditional practice of negotiating the<br />

bride price.<br />

“And what’s a wedding without a little music<br />

huh?” I chime in, in jest. While many of the indigenous<br />

sounds have been watered down<br />

by international styles like rock and pop, the<br />

Shona people still hold on dearly to some of<br />

their traditional music. The mbira, or thumb<br />

piano, is a common instrument and local<br />

style of music.<br />

This small instrument is not found anywhere<br />

else in the world, to my knowledge. Its full<br />

name is the “mbira dza vadzimu” (voice of<br />

the ancestors), very significant and sacred in<br />

Shona religion and culture. It is usually played<br />

to facilitate communication with ancestral<br />

spirits. My singular experience at a mbira<br />

concert was an utterly alien one, my primary<br />

urge to sing along to a song I knew was softened<br />

from roar to whisper by the legend<br />

Ephat Mujuru. And that new kind of stillness<br />

was infectious.<br />

Traditionally, the mbira had many uses. Its arresting<br />

melodies were required to bring rain<br />

during drought, chase away harmful spirits<br />

and cure illnesses. The mbira was played as<br />

a celebration at weddings and to guide wandering<br />

spirits at funerals.<br />

During Zimbabwe’s journey to liberation, notable<br />

musician, Thomas Mapfumo was a<br />

champion in the war for independence. His<br />

popularity as the leading liberation musician<br />

was fuelled by his band’s adaption of the<br />

mbira, thus drawing on the power of the<br />

spiritual realm for protection and victory.<br />

Dance occupies a crucial place in Zimbabwean<br />

culture, tradition, spirituality and history.<br />

As an elaborative illustration of their rich<br />

ethnic diversity, the Shona tribe had dances<br />

to suit different purposes. For example, Dinhe<br />

is performed to praise ancestors, while<br />

Shangara and Mbakumba is an active part of<br />

the after-harvest thanksgiving ceremony. The<br />

Mbira is a very powerful dance practice to<br />

invoke the ancestral spirits, and the Mhande<br />

is performed during the kurova guva ceremony<br />

to welcome the return of a deceased<br />

family member’s spirit, in addition to the rainmaking<br />

ceremony.<br />

The Jerusarema dance, for example, is a<br />

dance style practised by the Zezuru Shona<br />

people living in eastern regions of the country.<br />

With eyebrow raising circular motions,<br />

jaw dropping acrobatics and a smile curling<br />

drum beat, the Jerusarema is one of the most<br />

important and distinctive dances of Zimbabwe.<br />

Performed at rituals and ceremonies, this<br />

dance form is most significant for its role in<br />

guiding the ancestors into the spirit world.<br />

“We certainly should touch on the Shona<br />

people’s most impressive quality.” he remarked<br />

as he finished his second cup of coffee.<br />

“Which one is that? There are so many<br />

after all,” I replied. In the back of my mind, I<br />

knew what he was talking about. The Shona<br />

people are known worldwide, not for their<br />

gyrating waistline, nor for their astute fashion<br />

sense, but for their handcrafted stone sculptures.<br />

Regarded as spectacular workmanship for<br />

decades, each piece can be found selling for<br />

extremely high prices in many galleries<br />

around the world. And yet, in local markets,<br />

these stone marvels are as elusive as they are<br />

far from ingratiating. Sculptors thus find their<br />

muse in the mystery of the spiritual realm as<br />

well as nurturing beauty of womanhood. The<br />

nude torso, the dancing girl, and the mother<br />

and child are depicted in a myriad of ways.<br />

What’s more, the detail achieved using serpentine<br />

stone is exquisite.<br />

While we realise that the origins of these remarkable<br />

sculptures date back no further<br />

than the 1950s, it has been time enough to<br />

gain a global reputation not just as great<br />

<strong>Africa</strong>n art, but great art in the broadest<br />

sense.<br />

Looking back at my younger, and granted<br />

more naive years, my view of Shona customs<br />

were that it had no tangible role in my existence:<br />

but it seems to me more compelling<br />

as a narrative and more historically revealing<br />

of my own self worth. I suspect as more<br />

<strong>Africa</strong>ns become self aware of their origins<br />

and begin to embrace the lost history that<br />

makes them <strong>Africa</strong>n, we will begin to see a<br />

modern appreciation and integration of tribal<br />

heritage in mainstream media.<br />

60 | www.nomadafricamag.com | ...Celebrating the world’s richest continent | Issue <strong>13</strong>


WILL RELAXED VISA REGULATIONS BOOST<br />

TOURISM<br />

IN SOUTH AFRICA?<br />

This is the question many people across the South <strong>Africa</strong>n tourism<br />

industry have begged answers for, against the <strong>Africa</strong>n tourism giant<br />

experiencing unusual low tourism arrivals.<br />

Words: MARTIN CHEMHERE<br />

predictable, for a country<br />

that in recent times has<br />

seen millions of visitors<br />

from both traditional<br />

and emerging source<br />

markets descending on<br />

South <strong>Africa</strong> to experience<br />

a combination of<br />

man-made and natural<br />

wonders, dotting its length and breadth.<br />

Many outsiders arriving in the country on<br />

business trips, especially those unaware of<br />

the country’s infrastructural facilities and<br />

standards, comparable with the first world,<br />

returned to their homes with lasting impressions<br />

to tell remarkable stories of world<br />

class development. However, despite the<br />

reputation of its famed allure, South <strong>Africa</strong>’s<br />

tourism industry began to experience<br />

gloom. That reality left the tourism industry<br />

fraternity struggling with the situation. Industry<br />

business owners and executives<br />

who had become accustomed to brisk<br />

business and massive profits were experiencing<br />

sleepless nights.<br />

UPDATE ON NEWLY RELAXED SA VISA REGULA-<br />

TIONS<br />

The low tourism statistics were attributed to<br />

the visa regulation passed in 2015. It required<br />

parents to carry unabridged birth<br />

certificates for accompanying children, as<br />

well as letters of permission from parents<br />

that were not travelling. Concerns were ardently<br />

raised by most tourism industry players.<br />

They pointed out that the South <strong>Africa</strong>n<br />

government’s decision to introduce unfriendly<br />

visa regulations was largely to<br />

blame for “hurting” tourism businesses.<br />

Amid loud outcries, the ruling hit the<br />

tourism industry hard, threatening its vibrancy<br />

and viability. The fact that global entertainer<br />

and British actor Idris Elba’s<br />

daughter was a victim of the new requirement<br />

further amplified the calls to revisit the<br />

entry prerequisite. To avert further escalation<br />

of the crisis, an intervention was<br />

needed, to save the industry from further<br />

decline and job losses. Tourism Business<br />

Council South <strong>Africa</strong> (TBCSA) say that the<br />

tourism industry, which employs more than<br />

1.5 million people has been identified by<br />

the government as one of the sectors that<br />

are potential growth engines and that can<br />

62 | www.nomadafricamag.com | ...Celebrating the world’s richest continent | Issue <strong>13</strong>


Focus <strong>Africa</strong><br />

lift the South <strong>Africa</strong>n economy out of the<br />

recession, by creating jobs and reducing<br />

high unemployment. The industry generates<br />

about R400 billion ($28 billion) estimated<br />

at 10% of its GDP. Therefore, the<br />

South <strong>Africa</strong>n Government could not pretend<br />

to be blind to the negative impact of<br />

a law hurting its wealthy economy.<br />

President Cyril Ramaphosa’s then announced<br />

amendments as part of a broader<br />

economic turnaround strategy focused on<br />

moving the <strong>Africa</strong>n continent’s most advanced<br />

economy out of a slump. Then<br />

Home Affairs Minister Malusi Gigaba reportedly<br />

expressed the need to relax some<br />

immigration rules. This covered the inclusion<br />

of visa waiver agreements with additional<br />

source markets, all geared at<br />

improving investment into the country and<br />

tourism. That was a prudent move, considering<br />

his department is responsible for<br />

about 10 million visitors, including tourists,<br />

business travellers, investors and neighbours.<br />

Visitors from all over the world, including<br />

significant growth source markets<br />

like China and India were to enjoy newly<br />

regulated travel policies that offer them access<br />

to 5-year multiple entry documents.<br />

The two Asian countries would have people<br />

travelling for business and to invest,<br />

enjoy arrangements, where 10-year visas<br />

would be processed in just 5 days. Furthermore,<br />

changes covered a three-year, multiple<br />

visa for frequent, trusted travellers to<br />

SA and a 10-year visa for <strong>Africa</strong>n region<br />

business people and academics. Waiver<br />

accords for visitors from the continent, as<br />

well as other regions like the Middle East<br />

and Eastern Europe and countries like<br />

Qatar, Egypt, Iran, Saudi Arabia and the UAE<br />

were also included as well as selected categories<br />

of visitors from <strong>Africa</strong>n countries<br />

like Kenya, Nigeria and Uganda. The new<br />

visa move was made to unlock uninhibited<br />

interest and to come into effect from Oc-<br />

Allowing applications via courier means it will be much easier<br />

for potential travellers to obtain a visa, and we are confident that this will<br />

increase tourist numbers from some of our most important untapped source<br />

markets.”<br />

tober were designed to see tourists coming<br />

to South <strong>Africa</strong> in increasing numbers.<br />

TOURISM INDUSTRY RESPONSE TO THE RELAXED<br />

VISA<br />

As is usual in such situations, leading<br />

tourism industry experts and organisations<br />

then sprung into action.<br />

Tim Haris, CEO at Wesgro Tourism, Trade<br />

and Investment said that his organisation<br />

welcomed the amendments as ease of<br />

travel and movement across borders is a<br />

fundamental building block of the global<br />

economy. “The relaxed visa regulations include<br />

a number of measures that will boost<br />

tourism,” he said. He pointed out several<br />

things such as, for example, relaxing the requirement<br />

for travellers to apply for a visa<br />

in person in countries like China and India<br />

will make a very big difference to ease of<br />

travel for visitors from these countries, as<br />

will long-term multiple entry visas. The<br />

other factor he mentioned was that since<br />

2014, travellers from countries that require<br />

a visa for South <strong>Africa</strong> have had to travel to<br />

a South <strong>Africa</strong>n visa application centre in<br />

person in order to apply: In large countries<br />

this meant travelling very far distances just<br />

to obtain a visa, discouraging potential<br />

tourists. “Allowing applications via courier<br />

means it will be much easier for potential<br />

travellers to obtain a visa, and we are confident<br />

that this will increase tourist numbers<br />

from some of our most important untapped<br />

source markets”, he said.<br />

Mr Haris further explained that effective implementation<br />

will be the greatest challenge.<br />

He referred to the relaxation of<br />

documentary requirements for foreigners<br />

travelling to South <strong>Africa</strong> with minors as<br />

having the potential to have a much<br />

needed positive impact on travel to the<br />

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China and India were to enjoy newly regulated travel<br />

policies that offer them access to 5-year multiple entry<br />

documents. The two Asian countries would have people<br />

travelling for business and to invest, enjoy arrangements<br />

where 10-year visas would be processed in just 5 days.<br />

country, especially family travel. However,<br />

he also suggested this will require specialised<br />

training for airport security and<br />

boarder controls operating at these posts.<br />

“The level of success, however, will be entirely<br />

dependent on how it is put into practice.<br />

The changes will need to be executed<br />

in a manner that avoids confusion and encourages<br />

certainty for potential travellers to<br />

South <strong>Africa</strong>. “These measures are ‘quick<br />

wins’, they are simple and quick to implement<br />

and do not require significant resources<br />

to put into effect. The measures do<br />

ease travel for many visitors, and will improve<br />

tourism numbers; however we see<br />

these amendments as a first step in the<br />

right direction. There is still a lot more that<br />

needs to be done, and to truly boost numbers<br />

and maximise the economic development<br />

potential of tourism it is going to take<br />

a concerted national effort,” he said.<br />

Professor Ciná van Zyl, Acting COD: Department<br />

of Entrepreneurship, Supply Chain,<br />

Transport, Tourism and Logistics Management,<br />

College of Economic and Management<br />

Sciences, UNISA weighed in, saying:<br />

“According to reports, the dropping of the<br />

visa requirement for Russian citizens resulted<br />

in an immediate increase in arrivals<br />

from that country by 25%. Iran, Saudia Arabia,<br />

Egypt, the UAE and Qatar are among<br />

the most promising markets for which the<br />

visa requirement will reportedly be<br />

waived.”<br />

She explained that the most important<br />

change is the easing of the process for application<br />

and its impact on the two large<br />

markets of China and India but noted that<br />

this however, remains to be seen how it<br />

would work out in practice and whether<br />

the requirement to be able to prove<br />

parental consent in the case of travelling<br />

minors remains an obstacle.<br />

“Moving towards an electronic visa system,<br />

to be trialed for New Zealand citizens from<br />

April 2019 is a positive step and South<br />

<strong>Africa</strong>ns themselves will benefit from the introduction<br />

of electronic passport control<br />

systems to ease their way through airports,”<br />

she added. Her observation was that in<br />

general, relaxing visa regulations has excellent<br />

potential for increasing tourist arrivals<br />

in South <strong>Africa</strong>, but it is not clear whether<br />

the new proposed regulations go far<br />

enough.<br />

“The new regulations appear to ease all aspects<br />

of obtaining permission to visit South<br />

<strong>Africa</strong>, but it is possible that challenges will<br />

arise related to the e-visa application<br />

process in New Zealand and in training airline<br />

and immigration staff to accept the e-<br />

visa. “If we look at South <strong>Africa</strong>'s tourist<br />

arrivals, compared to those of Thailand (for<br />

example) the trends over the past five years<br />

have been similar, although South <strong>Africa</strong>'s<br />

are more seasonal (source: Trading Economics).<br />

Although the regulations about<br />

travelling minors and the visa requirement<br />

for New Zealanders have impacted on arrivals,<br />

I do not think the impact has been<br />

huge and I do not expect the latest regulations<br />

to do much more that reverses this<br />

modest change,” she said. Asked whether<br />

government’s move was adequate to realise<br />

high tourist arrivals, her response was<br />

that a huge impact will be achieved only if<br />

the application process becomes very easy<br />

for major markets such as China, India or<br />

Nigeria (possibly even using the e-visa) or<br />

even if a further relaxation waives the visa<br />

requirement for those countries. At the<br />

same time, she was concerned that the<br />

changes do not go far enough to provide<br />

a major boost to tourist arrivals.<br />

“At the moment, the majority of recorded<br />

tourist arrivals are from the SADC countries<br />

(mainly Zimbabwe and Lesotho) and the<br />

traditional Western tourism markets. The<br />

Netherlands (population 17 million) still<br />

sends more tourists than China (population<br />

1, 4 billion) to South <strong>Africa</strong>, for example,” she<br />

further said. Professor Van Zyl further highlighted<br />

that the major source of overseas<br />

arrivals remains the old colonial power, the<br />

UK and to properly capture the tourism demand<br />

in the rapidly developing countries<br />

of <strong>Africa</strong> and Asia will require more farreaching<br />

changes. Today, Australia welcomes<br />

18 times more tourists from China<br />

than South <strong>Africa</strong> does and therefore for<br />

South <strong>Africa</strong>, the target should be to at least<br />

equal that. TBCSA acknowledged steps<br />

taken by government, however adding that<br />

the industry still had a very long way to go<br />

on easing immigration regulations. CEO of<br />

the TBCSA, Tshifhiwa Tshivhengwa in a<br />

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These measures are “quick wins”, they are simple<br />

and quick to implement and do not require significant resources<br />

to put into effect. The measures do ease travel for many visitors,<br />

and will improve tourism numbers; however we see these amendments as a<br />

first step in the right direction. There is still a lot more that needs to be<br />

done, and to truly boost numbers and maximise the economic development<br />

potential of tourism it is going to take a concerted national effort.”<br />

- Tim Harris, CEO, Wesgro Tourism<br />

statement said “We, as the industry, are and<br />

have been ready to come to the table to<br />

grow the economy, create jobs and assist<br />

with transformation, but we need the government<br />

to allow us the space to do that.<br />

Therefore, we welcome the progress in<br />

visa waivers for selected countries, but we<br />

need this to happen quickly with the holiday<br />

season fast approaching. ”He stressed<br />

that the issue of unabridged birth certificate<br />

for minors travelling is still a huge concern<br />

for the industry. “We raised this issue<br />

four years ago and we have engaged with<br />

government on the negative impact of<br />

these regulations, we further asked the department<br />

of Home Affairs to share with us<br />

the statistics on child trafficking through international<br />

airports, which never happened.<br />

We have said from the very beginning<br />

that unabridged birth certificates have<br />

created a large barrier for tourism in and<br />

out of South <strong>Africa</strong>.<br />

“The (government) announcement doesn’t<br />

change anything; Home Affairs is once<br />

again circling around this issue. We want<br />

this regulation to be completely removed<br />

to re-encourage the movement of people<br />

into South <strong>Africa</strong> if we are serious about<br />

creating jobs”, commented Mr. Tshivhengwa.<br />

“President Ramaphosa, through<br />

his stimulus package, recognised tourism<br />

as one of the key sectors in stimulating the<br />

economy and creating jobs. What was announced<br />

by the Minister of Home Affairs is<br />

still the same policy that will not grow<br />

tourism. We need bold moves to fully remove<br />

regulatory barriers and not endless<br />

discussion”, added Mr. Tshivhengwa.<br />

He said that off the back of the President’s<br />

announcement of pending amendments<br />

to these regulations, many have come out<br />

to strongly criticise the lack of action in this<br />

regard.<br />

“The Association of Southern <strong>Africa</strong>n Travel<br />

Agents (ASATA) has also been left frustrated<br />

and disappointed by the President’s<br />

failure to directly address the known issues<br />

at hand,” further noted the TBCSA statement.<br />

It also mentioned that the Association<br />

of Southern <strong>Africa</strong>n Travel Agencies<br />

(ASATA) CEO, Otto De Vries, was familiar<br />

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We, as the industry, are and have been ready to come<br />

to the table to grow the economy, create jobs and assist with<br />

transformation, but we need the government to allow us the<br />

space to do that. Therefore, we welcome the progress in visa<br />

waivers for selected countries, but we need this to happen quickly with the<br />

holiday season fast approaching.”<br />

- Tshifhiwa Tshivhengwa, CEO,<br />

Tourism Business Council South <strong>Africa</strong> (TBCSA)<br />

with the challenges. “The controversial requirement<br />

for travelling families has stifled<br />

outbound tourism, as it is making it difficult<br />

for local families to travel internationally.<br />

Why would you continue to apply a policy<br />

that will hamper and frustrate them?” De<br />

Vries said. De Vries summed up his statement<br />

by saying, “South <strong>Africa</strong>’s government<br />

needs to remove the requirement for travel<br />

with an unabridged birth certificate for all<br />

passport holders.”<br />

Tshivhengwa has echoed these sentiments,<br />

and have questioned the lack of urgent and<br />

genuine action by the South <strong>Africa</strong>n Government.<br />

He has been stern in stating what<br />

the country needs to bolster the economy<br />

from a tourism point of view. Tshivhengwa<br />

expressed that tourism is ready to and can<br />

play a key role in boosting the country’s<br />

economy, if the correct measures are put in<br />

place. In the same statement by the TBCSA,<br />

CEO of Southern <strong>Africa</strong>n Tourism Services<br />

Association (SATSA), David Frost expressed<br />

his frustration with the Minister’s announcement<br />

saying his organisation has long been<br />

at the forefront of one of the pioneering<br />

campaigns to abolish the need to carry<br />

unabridged birth certificates since its inception<br />

in 2015. The TBCSA noted that<br />

South <strong>Africa</strong> is faced with a difficult economic<br />

condition with declining economic<br />

growth, tourism arrival declining, and<br />

tourism business confidence at its lowest<br />

for years. “Removing these immigration<br />

barriers will go a long way in increasing<br />

tourist arrivals, increase employment, and<br />

contribute positively to the economy” said<br />

Tshivhengwa.<br />

“As the TBCSA, we remain open to having a<br />

robust discussion to move this economy<br />

forward.” The head of TBCSA also voiced<br />

his concern at the need to avoid self-inflicted<br />

entry regulations that were benefiting<br />

other countries at the expense of South<br />

<strong>Africa</strong> and as a result thought that it was important<br />

for the new regulations to be put in<br />

place as a matter of urgency. Perhaps time<br />

will tell whether the strategies prescribed<br />

by government will be effective in bringing<br />

back the good old days to South <strong>Africa</strong>n<br />

tourism.<br />

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Special Feature<br />

RELIGIOUS TOURISM: AN<br />

USD$18 BILLION<br />

INDUSTRY?<br />

In the grand tradition of planning vacations to places where<br />

people have met their tragic ends—Pyramid of Giza, Auschwitz, the<br />

ruins of Pompeii—one of the oldest forms of tourism is taking the<br />

continent by storm.<br />

WORDS BY: MIRIRO MATEMA<br />

in a seemingly faithless climate,<br />

where secular media has questioned<br />

and swayed the very core<br />

of religion, comes a uniquely<br />

growing trend that could be beneficial<br />

to <strong>Africa</strong>’s collective economy.<br />

Whether you are seeking<br />

spiritual enlightenment or a contingency<br />

to discover the religious<br />

and often lesser known sites, faith-based<br />

tourism is growing in numbers. The journey<br />

to finding oneself, sharing one’s belief or<br />

receiving providence is not as affordable<br />

as should be the case.<br />

Many a traveller have saved for months<br />

and even years to embrace the spirit behind<br />

one’s faith. Mission-based, humanitarian<br />

trips such as World Race have<br />

contributed to hundreds of travellers each<br />

year touring to countries like South <strong>Africa</strong>,<br />

Zimbabwe, Malawi and Kenya. For 11<br />

months, groups of young and impressionable<br />

travellers move from country to country,<br />

feeding the homeless, building shelters<br />

and sharing their beliefs. Per person, this 11<br />

month crusade to inner peace costs a staggering<br />

USD$19,200 which is fundraised socially.<br />

And you would imagine these passionate<br />

travellers are older, set in their careers and<br />

looking to mix a restful vacation with a faith<br />

bolstering experience. You’d imagine<br />

wrong. There has been a shift in the type<br />

of traveller into <strong>Africa</strong>, not only are they<br />

much younger, but they are drawn to self<br />

awareness through spiritual guidance. Indeed<br />

- they could be part of an elaborate<br />

mission trip into the middle of a rural village<br />

or they could be singing praise songs at a<br />

mega church evangelism conference.<br />

David Frost, CEO of the Southern <strong>Africa</strong><br />

Tourism Services Association (SATSA) said<br />

46% of international arrivals into South<br />

<strong>Africa</strong> were between the ages of 18 and 35.<br />

Be that as it may, faith in itself can mean different<br />

things to different people. Just ask<br />

the tens of thousands who flock to TB<br />

Joshua’s Synagogue, Church of All Nations<br />

(SCOAN), Sacred Music Festival in Fez, Morocco<br />

or the serene Ethiopian town of Lalibela,<br />

renowned for its eleven medieval<br />

churches. Those searching for moral certitude<br />

are bound to find it on this rich continent.<br />

<strong>Africa</strong> has a diverse religious community<br />

thanks to our ancient tourists. Through<br />

a long history of colonisation and mission<br />

trips, one can find oneself in the festivals,<br />

retreats and religious sites available.<br />

It must be stated, there is economic significance<br />

in these festivals and faith-based<br />

community development trips, which our<br />

tourism leaders need to pay particular attention<br />

to, as it cannot be underestimated,<br />

neither can it be ignored.<br />

Religion and tourism share a very close relationship,<br />

where religion motivates people<br />

to travel, while religious spaces serve as attractions.<br />

Take Mali for example. The Great<br />

Mosque of Djenné in Mali is among the<br />

most astounding buildings in the world and<br />

one of <strong>Africa</strong>’s most revered religious monuments.<br />

Constructed almost entirely from<br />

sun-dried mud bricks coated with clay, it is<br />

the largest surviving example of a distinctive<br />

style of <strong>Africa</strong>n architecture. Over the<br />

decades, the Great Mosque has collapsed<br />

twice, and the one that stands today was<br />

completed in 1907. To keep the building<br />

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from falling apart, an annual week-long festival<br />

is held, where residents and visitors<br />

come out in droves to plaster and repair it.<br />

Each year, during the last three weeks of<br />

October, over 30,000 followers of the<br />

Some churches in Nigeria, West<br />

<strong>Africa</strong> can hold over 200,000<br />

worshippers and, with their<br />

supplement business empires,<br />

constitute a significant section of<br />

the economy, employing tens of<br />

thousands of people and drawing<br />

in large amounts of tourist dollars.<br />

But how much of the half a trillion<br />

GDP they make up, is difficult to<br />

determine, since the churches are,<br />

like <strong>Africa</strong>’s oil sector, a largely<br />

opaque entity.<br />

Shembe church gather at the Judea temple<br />

near Eshowe for an annual festival of healing<br />

and blessing.<br />

Tens of thousands of faithful pilgrims gather<br />

and resurrect this dormant Zululand village<br />

with hundreds of family shops opening to<br />

sell items from food to religious paraphernalia.<br />

In this very vibrant and colourful village,<br />

a hive of economic activity prevails<br />

within a formal religious programme. It<br />

would be a sin to bring up religion without<br />

sharing some thought on Nigeria’s vibrant<br />

and wealthy religious community. Some<br />

churches in Nigeria, West <strong>Africa</strong> can hold<br />

over 200,000 worshippers and, with their<br />

supplement business empires, constitute a<br />

significant section of the economy, employing<br />

tens of thousands of people and<br />

drawing in large amounts of tourist dollars.<br />

But how much of the half a trillion GDP they<br />

make up, is difficult to determine, since the<br />

churches are, like <strong>Africa</strong>’s oil sector, a<br />

largely opaque entity. “They don’t submit<br />

accounts to anybody,” says Bismarck Rewane,<br />

economist and CEO of Lagos consultancy<br />

Financial Derivatives. “At least six<br />

church leaders have private jets, so they<br />

have money. How much? No one really<br />

knows.” In a research paper, Timothy and<br />

Nyaupane suggest that religious tourism in<br />

<strong>Africa</strong> will continue on an upward trajectory<br />

with economic significance only when<br />

given full recognition by tourism industry<br />

leaders, academics and governments in<br />

<strong>Africa</strong>, and will only realise its true potential<br />

once taken seriously as a socio-economic<br />

tool for development.<br />

World Religious Travel is one of the fastest<br />

growing segments in travel today. Religious<br />

travel is estimated at a value of US$18 billion,<br />

involving 300 million travellers. Based<br />

on estimates provided by the United Nations<br />

World Tourism Organization (UNTWO)<br />

in 2014, there are over 600 million religious<br />

travellers around the world. And with national<br />

debt on the rise, this could be a bailout<br />

option for a number of countries facing<br />

the sting of creditors lining up. Looking to<br />

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the future and the potential of tourism on<br />

the continent, UNWTO forecasts show that<br />

by 2030, the number of international arrivals<br />

in <strong>Africa</strong> is expected to more than double,<br />

growing from 50 million to <strong>13</strong>4 million, increasing<br />

the global market shares of <strong>Africa</strong><br />

to 7%. The <strong>Africa</strong>n continent is gifted with a<br />

rich diversity, an abundance of untouched<br />

resources, natural beauty, cultural heritage<br />

and historical sites, wildlife, safaris, beaches,<br />

deserts and much more that, if channelled<br />

correctly, could provide considerable opportunities<br />

for development.<br />

But let’s look at the pros of faith-based<br />

tourism in <strong>Africa</strong>. Firstly, it is resilient to recessions<br />

and is more open to repeat business<br />

than your regular leisure travel.<br />

Because faith-based travellers are committed<br />

to the cause, they tend to save for<br />

these religious or spiritual experiences and<br />

travel despite the state of the economy.<br />

A trip from South <strong>Africa</strong> to Nigeria for<br />

SCOAN, can cost over USD$2,000. What’s<br />

more, the reason people travel is varied.<br />

For example, the faith-based tourists often<br />

travel as part of a religious obligation, to fulfil<br />

a spiritual mission or to show support for<br />

a particular cause. So it goes without saying,<br />

during economically difficult times,<br />

faith-based travel can provide a steady<br />

flow of income to a distressed economy.<br />

Faith-based travel isn’t only great for the<br />

transport and hospitality industries, but also<br />

has a significant influence over local arts<br />

and crafts entrepreneurs. From musicians,<br />

clothing designers to wooden and stone<br />

crafts, faith often leads to spontaneous<br />

spend to boost the overall experience of<br />

the journey. Say it’s your first time to the<br />

Mosque in Mozambique, it would be imperative<br />

to dress modestly before arrival.<br />

As such, the nearest market would gladly<br />

offer the finest garments to suit the occasion.<br />

“Rural tourism engenders national<br />

cohesion and alleviates poverty through<br />

the distribution of income from urban rich<br />

to the rural poor”, Mr. Ekow Sampson, Regional<br />

Director, Ghana Tourism Authority<br />

said. The reality is, these travellers spend<br />

more per trip than the average tourist,<br />

and while they are interested in value,<br />

price is rarely their top priority. As a result<br />

they are eager to pay for “eye-catching”<br />

extras. And if it wasn’t already clear, these<br />

They don’t submit accounts to<br />

anybody. At least six church leaders have<br />

private jets, so they have money. How<br />

much? No one really knows.”<br />

- Bismarck Rewane, Economist & CEO, Lagos<br />

Consultancy Financial Derivatives.<br />

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World Religious Travel is one of the fastest growing segments in<br />

travel today. Religious travel is estimated at a value of US$18 billion,<br />

involving 300 million travellers.<br />

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visitors are not brand loyal, but are<br />

among the most loyal and resilient of all<br />

travellers, being less influenced by the<br />

ebbs and flows in tourism demand. These<br />

travellers want to travel together to provide<br />

fellowship and community as well as<br />

to enrich their lives and their religion.<br />

Destinations that can fulfil these desires,<br />

are well positioned to develop and expand<br />

their religious tourism offering and<br />

uplift their community. Faith-based<br />

tourism is not all rainbows and butterflies<br />

as it can be risky business. From insanely<br />

large crowds to political instability, any<br />

normal traveller wouldn’t put their lives<br />

on the line to visit a country in turmoil.<br />

Yet, religious travellers are beyond being<br />

deterred. Siima Simon Peter, a tour and<br />

travel consultant at Prime Safaris & Tours,<br />

says, “It can be risky sometimes, people<br />

would rather die at the sites in quest of<br />

their lifetime spiritual fulfillment”.<br />

Another challenge facing economies is<br />

the consistency of these trips. For a community<br />

located in the outback of society,<br />

regular visitors can be a lucrative annual<br />

event. But beyond that, the community<br />

can be a few tumbleweeds shy of becoming<br />

a ghost town. Consistency is important<br />

to a thriving community and<br />

more so to the development of a tourism<br />

industry. Looking deeper, some factors<br />

such as lack of hospitable facilities,<br />

chances of accidents, too basic security<br />

are slowing down the volume of pilgrims<br />

to an extent.<br />

Although governments are coming up<br />

with innovative solutions to overcome<br />

the hindrances, limitations such as seasonal<br />

rush, shortage of rental transportation,<br />

over-occupancy of rooms, serious<br />

crowding of the holy sites and unorganised<br />

facilities hinder the growth of faithbased<br />

tourism. Additionally, slow visa<br />

facilitation; a wide capacity gap in the<br />

Because faith-based travellers are committed<br />

to the cause, they tend to save for these<br />

religious or spiritual experiences and travel<br />

despite the state of the economy. A trip from<br />

South <strong>Africa</strong> to Nigeria for SCOAN, can cost<br />

over USD$2,000. So it goes without saying,<br />

during economically difficult times, faithbased<br />

travel can provide a steady flow of income<br />

to a distressed economy.<br />

David Frost, CEO, Southern <strong>Africa</strong> Tourism<br />

Services Association (SATSA).<br />

hospitality service industry; and underdeveloped<br />

infrastructure are major impediments<br />

to tourism growth and<br />

sustainability. In essence, what should be<br />

a standard 6-hour trip from West to<br />

Southern <strong>Africa</strong> can take as long as two<br />

days!<br />

This and many other infrastructure inefficiencies<br />

are costing <strong>Africa</strong> billions of dollars<br />

annually and are stunting its rapid<br />

growth. Although still a work in progress,<br />

the <strong>Africa</strong>n Union (AU) is moving forward<br />

with its plans to scrap travel restrictions<br />

for citizens of all 55 member states, thus<br />

making it easier and affordable for<br />

<strong>Africa</strong>ns to travel within the continent. According<br />

to the <strong>Africa</strong>n Development Bank<br />

(AfDB), the free movement of people is a<br />

cornerstone of regional integration.<br />

When travellers move freely across the<br />

continent, they bring higher levels of<br />

capital investment, fresh, diverse skills<br />

and they expand the range of goods and<br />

services on offer.<br />

Faith-based tourism can be one of the<br />

most effective tools to foster inclusive<br />

and sustainable development, for three<br />

reasons. Firstly, religious tourism raises<br />

awareness of our common heritage,<br />

which helps to ensure its preservation.<br />

Religious heritage sites across the continent<br />

have immeasurable value in exploring<br />

our identity, while driving that same<br />

knowledge and education in younger<br />

generations. And in these modern times,<br />

when young people find their identity in<br />

technology and the social apps, a little<br />

learning can go a long way.<br />

Secondly, faith-based tourism can contribute<br />

to community development and<br />

empowerment. When tourists meet and<br />

show interest in the unique values of local<br />

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It can be risky sometimes, people would rather die at the<br />

sites in quest of their lifetime spiritual fulfillment”.<br />

communities, these communities feel empowered.<br />

Tourism helps them to take pride in themselves,<br />

in their history, traditions and environment.<br />

But this only happens, if<br />

communities are fully engaged and integrated<br />

in the tourism experience around<br />

them.<br />

Thirdly, religious tourism builds cultural understanding<br />

and peace. Tourism breaks<br />

down cultural barriers and builds bridges<br />

between people, communities and nations;<br />

the very foundation of peace. Religious<br />

tourism attracts millions of people<br />

united in respect and reverence for the<br />

world’s great religions.<br />

These are the very same values needed for<br />

cross-cultural understanding, for peace<br />

building, and to ward off the forces of<br />

darkness that threaten our sector. Religious<br />

heritage sites are important meeting<br />

grounds for visitors and hosts. These encounters<br />

are fundamental to maintaining<br />

tourism as a force for good, for everyone,<br />

in all corners of the world. Unfortunately,<br />

faith-based tourism is not well researched,<br />

nor is it documented effectively. Few reliable<br />

statistics are available regarding its<br />

size and value within the tourism sector as<br />

a whole, mainly because only a handful of<br />

countries measure tourist arrivals as religion.<br />

In most cases, faith-based tourists are<br />

combined with other leisure visitors, with<br />

most being boxed into either “holiday” or<br />

“business”.<br />

Therefore it is critical to become active in<br />

our pursuit to capitalise on this phenomenon.<br />

In <strong>Africa</strong>, the economic and social opportunities<br />

of faith-based tourism is limitless.<br />

It’s only a matter of time until we can begin<br />

to fully understand and appreciate the scale<br />

of this fascinating form of travel.<br />

Issue <strong>13</strong> | ...Celebrating the world’s richest continent | www.nomadafricamag.com | 75


CHURCHES OF AFRICA<br />

RIPE FOR REFORMATION?<br />

The division of state and church has always been a contentious issue<br />

ever since before and after the time of Martin Luther, the father of<br />

Evangelism. The issues of regulation and reformation of the church,<br />

specifically looking at denominations on the <strong>Africa</strong>n continent, are<br />

controversial and exciting, and indeed a sign of the times in the age<br />

of digitalisation and information dessimation.<br />

WORDS BY: DIETER GOTTERT<br />

most recently, Pesident<br />

Kgame’s<br />

government of<br />

Rwanda has<br />

been clamping<br />

down on<br />

churches. In<br />

South <strong>Africa</strong>, the government-appointed<br />

Commission for the Promotion and Protection<br />

of Cultural, Religious and Linguistic<br />

Communities (known as the CLR Rights<br />

Commission) summoned 40 churches to<br />

find out what is going on and make recommendations<br />

and a report.<br />

Reports of pastors convincing worshippers<br />

to eat snakes, spraying insecticide into<br />

mouths of believers during fully packed sermons<br />

under the guise of God’s hand apparently,<br />

and even buildings that collapse<br />

due to poor structural engineering – there<br />

has been much strange activity, but no consequence.<br />

Yet, when a government imposes an inquiry,<br />

or summonses religious leaders – it is<br />

comparable to throwing fuel onto an already<br />

smouldering fire.<br />

No doubt, it is a very delicate debate –<br />

should churches be taxed and regulated, –<br />

and their donations and collections be scrutinized<br />

and laid bare? On the other hand,<br />

can we ask that political parties declare their<br />

benefactors - the answer to both is similar<br />

on a balance of scales – both church and<br />

politicians would definitely not want the real<br />

truth revealed?<br />

Some <strong>Africa</strong>n Government have adopted a<br />

tough approach, voicing strong opinions on<br />

how churches need to be controlled or regulated,<br />

depending which side of the fence<br />

you are sitting on.<br />

Kenya’s Government uttered a call for regulation<br />

recently of churches.<br />

"They are thieves and not preachers. We<br />

have to consult and know how to remove<br />

them," President Uhura Kenyatta told<br />

Kenyan newspaper Daily Nation. The<br />

Kenyan Government says the move is<br />

aimed at closing down bogus churches.<br />

According to Zambian Pastor Conrad<br />

Mbewe, of the Kabwata Baptist Church in<br />

Zambia, charismatic churches seem to<br />

dominate on the continent because<br />

"<strong>Africa</strong>ns are hugely spiritual".<br />

One would be led to believe, according to<br />

Pastor Mbewe, that <strong>Africa</strong>ns are not critical<br />

and do not question the existence of God<br />

or a higher power, as opposed to worshippers<br />

from Western religions.<br />

There is a real concern from Zambian leaders<br />

of suspicious financial transactions and<br />

sexual abuse in the churches. Leaders are<br />

aware that among the “legitimate” or more<br />

well-known churches, are a plethora of obscure<br />

ones too – but the crux of the matter<br />

seems to be that sexual abuse happens in<br />

any church – well known or not. The<br />

Catholic Church is a prime example.<br />

Issues of unemployment, poverty, guidance<br />

and a way to salvation are key to many worshippers<br />

- a perfect recipe for manipulation<br />

of people who are desperate and will do almost<br />

anything to alleviate their suffering<br />

under the promise of a better life.<br />

Careful not to paint with one brush, not all<br />

churches fall in this category – the trick is to<br />

root out the corrupt ones, and the fact that<br />

churches are attracting government attention<br />

too close for comfort is a sign of how<br />

powerful and influential some churches<br />

have become.<br />

Rwanda is also clamping down on the<br />

church - Rwanda's Government is busy closing<br />

hundreds of churches, mosques and<br />

places of worship. What are the reasons for<br />

this?<br />

Building and safety standards are not being<br />

adhered to and the government is cracking<br />

the whip as they ought to. As an elected authority,<br />

they are empowered to enforce<br />

safety standards.<br />

76 | www.nomadafricamag.com | ...Celebrating the world’s richest continent | Issue <strong>13</strong>


Special Feature<br />

Interior view of Rivers Church, Sandton,<br />

Johannesburg, South <strong>Africa</strong>.<br />

Issue <strong>13</strong> | ...Celebrating the world’s richest continent | www.nomadafricamag.com | 77


Reports of pastors convincing worshippers to eat snakes,<br />

spraying insecticide into mouths of believers during fully packed<br />

sermons under the guise of God’s hand apparently, and even<br />

buildings that collapse due to poor structural engineering – there<br />

has been much strange activity, but no consequence.<br />

For instance, the installation of a lightning<br />

rod is now mandatory – this after a lightning<br />

strike in March killed 16 worshippers and injured<br />

140 at a Seventh-Day Adventist church<br />

in the south.<br />

Close to one hundred mosques have been<br />

shut down, according to Mufti Sheikh Salim<br />

Hitimana, leader of the country's Muslim<br />

community, he told AP news agency.<br />

He admitted: "We are now trying to fix what<br />

the government told us to do”.<br />

Some religious leaders, among them some<br />

evangelical, actually support the government<br />

crackdown, with the protection of<br />

lives of churchgoers being very important,<br />

as well as having qualified and trained<br />

church leaders.<br />

President of the Evangelical Free Church of<br />

Rwanda and a leader with the Evangelical<br />

Alliance of Rwanda Esron Maniragaba said:<br />

"Our government’s efforts to have churches<br />

build better structures are welcome to all of<br />

us," with calls from some quarters for government<br />

to supervise churches and take action<br />

against exploitative pastors.<br />

Not everyone has welcomed this bold<br />

move by the authorities, with human rights<br />

groups complaining about freedom of expression<br />

transgressions by Kgame’s government.<br />

Some church leaders who protested<br />

against church closures were arrested for illegally<br />

gathering “with bad intentions”. This<br />

has led to an inadvertent fear of speaking<br />

to the media.<br />

Rwanda's predominantly Christian population<br />

of 12 million people will soon see proposed<br />

legislation aimed at regulating faithbased<br />

organisations separately from civil<br />

society organisations.<br />

Among the proposed laws will be a requirement<br />

for pastors to have a theology degree<br />

before starting their own churches in order<br />

to properly teach the correct doctrine. Pentecostal<br />

churches are particularly in the firing<br />

line, whose leaders often claim to have<br />

received a calling to preach supposedly<br />

from a higher power. Detractors, however,<br />

have voiced their concern, citing financial<br />

limitations since studying and acquiring<br />

proper qualifications will entail spending<br />

too much money.<br />

Numerous churches hold religious gatherings<br />

in tents or houses that are not<br />

equipped to be safe enough, many of them<br />

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Issues of unemployment, poverty, guidance and a way to salvation<br />

are key to many worshippers - a perfect recipe for manipulation of<br />

people who are desperate and will do almost anything to alleviate<br />

their suffering under the promise of a better life.<br />

Issue <strong>13</strong> | ...Celebrating the world’s richest continent | www.nomadafricamag.com | 79


Among the proposed laws will be a requirement for<br />

pastors to have a theology degree before starting their own<br />

churches in order to properly teach the correct doctrine.<br />

Pentecostal churches are particularly in the firing line, whose<br />

leaders often claim to have received a calling to preach<br />

supposedly from a higher power. Detractors, however, have<br />

voiced their concern, citing financial limitations since<br />

studying and acquiring proper qualifications will entail<br />

spending too much money.<br />

said to be Pentecostal houses of worship,<br />

with countless charismatic pastors getting<br />

rich at the expense of poor and impoverished<br />

believers, who believe the words of<br />

salvation from their pastor.<br />

Authorities have observed noise pollution<br />

and safety transgressions. Anastase Shyaka,<br />

who heads up the Rwanda Governance<br />

Board regulating faith-based organisations,<br />

told AP news agency:<br />

"Prayer houses were found in such poor<br />

physical conditions, and we are not targeting<br />

any religion. We are closing prayer<br />

houses of all different denominations and<br />

asking them to meet existing health and<br />

safety standards for their followers."<br />

The government respects freedom of worship,<br />

but protecting lives of people comes<br />

first”. According to him, churches that meet<br />

the required safety standards will be reopened.<br />

In recent times, there have been calls on<br />

government to take decisive action against<br />

pastors who enrich themselves and exploit<br />

their followers.<br />

It can be argued that the question of regulation<br />

is especially relevant in countries such<br />

as Nigeria, where Pentecostal churches in<br />

particular address the spiritual and material<br />

wants of their followers. According to published<br />

research document “Religion, Culture<br />

and Political Corruption in Nigeria” by Dhikru<br />

A. Yagboyaju, “their aggressive approach,<br />

which includes the use of radio, television<br />

and such other social media platforms as<br />

well as other public self-advertisement outlets<br />

in the newspapers, through handbills<br />

and billboards, among others, they promise<br />

the people life-changing miracles and<br />

breakthroughs.”<br />

The research explains that “ordinary citizens<br />

are made to believe that demonic forces or<br />

spiritual attacks are behind illnesses,<br />

poverty and other misfortunes, the political<br />

and bureaucratic elite as well as public office<br />

seekers are told of how these evil<br />

forces could also deter political victories<br />

and career advancement”. Fire and brimstone<br />

stuff indeed, sound familiar?<br />

The document further explains the Nigerian<br />

religious landscape: “It exposes the majority<br />

of the poor people to exploitative acts, in<br />

their search for the elusive breakthroughs<br />

and miracles, while, on the other hand, it<br />

emboldens venality and misconduct by<br />

public officials who enjoy protection largely<br />

because of the easy adaptability of Nigeria’s<br />

age-long patron-client networks and clientele<br />

politics to such abuses.”<br />

Can one say that this type of religious playing<br />

field be a candidate for regulation? You<br />

be the judge.<br />

Precisely this is what the South <strong>Africa</strong>n Gov-<br />

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Their aggressive approach, which includes the use of radio,<br />

television and such other social media platforms as well as<br />

other public self-advertisement outlets in the newspapers,<br />

through handbills and billboards, among others, they promise<br />

the people life-changing miracles and breakthroughs.”<br />

ernment is busy doing right now with its appointed<br />

Commission for the Promotion and<br />

Protection of Cultural, Religious and Linguistic<br />

Communities (known as the CLR rights<br />

Commission)C<br />

Since the government-appointed Commission<br />

began its work 2015 to investigate the<br />

commercialization of religion and abuse of<br />

people’s belief systems, it has gained supporters<br />

and detractors alike from various<br />

groups in South <strong>Africa</strong>.<br />

Thoko Mkhwanazi-Xaluva, Commission<br />

chairperson, said the investigation was conducted<br />

following “controversial news reports<br />

and articles about pastors that have<br />

left a large section of society questioning<br />

whether religion has become a commercial<br />

institution or a commodity to enrich a few”.<br />

Currently, the Commission’s report has<br />

been tabled before Parliament, recommending<br />

that all religious practitioners be<br />

registered with the Commission through an<br />

accredited umbrella organisation of their<br />

choice.<br />

The report states: “This was necessitated by<br />

the fact that currently there is no comprehensive<br />

register where the communities<br />

can verify who is a bona fide religious practitioner<br />

… This register will also ensure that<br />

the religious leaders are compliant with the<br />

various laws of the country.”<br />

Normally, any sane person would welcome<br />

such a register, which can provide a measure<br />

of safety and recourse should worshippers<br />

feel that they have been aggrieved<br />

and abused by a church or its priest or pastor.<br />

Do not doctors, lawyers and accountants<br />

all have regulatory statutory bodies? It<br />

begs the question - why would churches<br />

be any different?<br />

Executive director of Freedom of Religion<br />

South <strong>Africa</strong>, Michael Swain, said:<br />

“It is not true that religion is not regulated.<br />

We live in a society that has the rule of law.<br />

We are all subject to those laws. Those laws<br />

are there for our protection. The problem is<br />

that these laws are not being enforced.”<br />

He and others have called on the churches<br />

to regulate themselves. So too does Favour<br />

Mary Stephens, secretary general of the<br />

South <strong>Africa</strong>n Union Council of Independent<br />

Churches, echo the call for self-regulation.<br />

Edward Mafadza, the Commission’s chief<br />

executive officer, had this to say: “The commission<br />

is a constitutional body … Nowhere<br />

in its recommendations does the Commission<br />

say that the state must interfere in the<br />

religious affairs of any religion. Instead, the<br />

recommendations encourage self-regulation.”<br />

“We are aware that the matters that the<br />

Commission is dealing with when it comes<br />

to religion are not easy and we do expect<br />

some individuals to be uncomfortable. This<br />

is due to the fact that accountability … takes<br />

the powers back to the people that are<br />

being served, rather than the religious<br />

leader having absolute control over people.”<br />

In covering all bases Mafadza states:, “The<br />

Commission’s door is open for all faiths that<br />

genuinely want to drive the agenda of promoting<br />

and protecting the religious rights of<br />

communities.”<br />

With support and co-operation from major<br />

church denominations, some independent<br />

Christian churches took issue with the Commission<br />

and its report.<br />

Nokuzola Mndende from the Eastern Cape<br />

(in South <strong>Africa</strong>)-based Icamagu Institute<br />

said the Commission does not value traditional<br />

<strong>Africa</strong>n religions. “It still defines us like<br />

they did during colonial times — under ‘culture’.”<br />

Vuyani Cetywayo, chairperson of Icamagu<br />

Spirituality, a body that represents traditional<br />

indigenous <strong>Africa</strong>n religions, also slammed<br />

the Commission:.<br />

“We appeared before the Commission, but<br />

with the types of questions they asked us, it<br />

was clear that they were unfortunately using<br />

a wrong template. It was all about Christianity,<br />

not religion at large. So we have really<br />

lost interest in the Commission.”<br />

However, “the Commission is inclusive” says<br />

Commission chief executive officer Edward<br />

Mafadza and “was never meant to marginalise<br />

any religion, including traditional<br />

<strong>Africa</strong>n religious leaders”.<br />

It is now up to the South <strong>Africa</strong>n Government<br />

and political powers to enforce the<br />

political will needed for the report’s recommendations<br />

to have any effect.<br />

In conclusion, among all the rhetoric and religious<br />

rivalry and the saying “honour<br />

among thieves”, dare we ask: Is it indeed<br />

possible for churches to regulate themselves?<br />

Issue <strong>13</strong> | ...Celebrating the world’s richest continent | www.nomadafricamag.com | 81


82 | www.nomadafricamag.com | ...Celebrating the world’s richest continent | Issue <strong>13</strong>


Special Feature<br />

RELIGIOUS TOURISM IN WEST AFRICA: A<br />

TB JOSHUA<br />

A F F A I R ?<br />

Religious tourism, a pilgrimage, faith-based travelling – call it<br />

what you like - has been around for centuries in the world. The lifelong ambition to<br />

travel and conduct worship and pay homage to a holy site or city has been a<br />

human need ever since mankind existed.<br />

Words: BRUCE GERMAINE<br />

whether you are<br />

a Muslim going<br />

to Mecca,<br />

Christians making<br />

your way<br />

to Jerusalem,<br />

or a Hindu travelling<br />

to Varanasi, tens of thousands of people<br />

globally migrate to countless holy<br />

places, resulting in huge economic benefits<br />

to a specific regions.<br />

Over the last decade, <strong>Africa</strong> in particular has<br />

seen a massive growth in religious tourism,<br />

particularly with the emergence of charismatic<br />

leaders to whom the masses flock to<br />

for spiritual enlightenment. Inevitably, a pilgrimage<br />

will intertwine with conventional<br />

tourism servicing local markets and hospitality<br />

industries by providing a massive influx<br />

of financial upliftment.<br />

This has become especially prevalent during<br />

economic instability, where believers<br />

will still want to fulfil their lifelong ambition<br />

of going on a pilgrimage to a faraway place<br />

– it has, in fact, become a big religious business<br />

(pun intended) with worldwide faithbased<br />

tourism generating a value in excess<br />

of US$ 18 billion with well over 300 million<br />

travellers. No wonder salivating travel booking<br />

agents rub their hands with glee since<br />

faith-based travellers have a preference for<br />

travelling in groups with, for example, an estimated<br />

25% of US-based tourists constituting<br />

religious tourism. Outside of <strong>Africa</strong> and<br />

among Western faith-based travellers, Israel<br />

is still considered to hold top spot as a holy<br />

land tourist destination, but it is right here in<br />

<strong>Africa</strong> where charismatic leaders and socalled<br />

prophets have developed their own<br />

religious markets and followers.<br />

Looking at just some of the most powerful<br />

men of the cloth in <strong>Africa</strong>, Zimbabwe’s Emmanuel<br />

Makandiwa and Walter Magaya<br />

have both established a vast following<br />

among believers, allowing them to wield a<br />

vast amount of influence and economic<br />

power in their country. For example, ever<br />

since Zimbabwe’s Emmanuel Makandiwa’s<br />

Judgement Night events started, filling up a<br />

whole football stadium with well over<br />

150 000 followers, he has attracted international<br />

worshippers from various regions<br />

such as South <strong>Africa</strong>, Zambia, Kenya and<br />

even Europe.<br />

Before we get to the real elephants when it<br />

comes to being a prophet’s prophet, any<br />

normal thinking person would want to ask<br />

why would people and even masses gather<br />

in their thousands to hear a sermon by another<br />

fellow human being? We can ask ourselves:<br />

Is it perhaps the fear of death, our<br />

common need for social interaction based<br />

on a shared faith-based goal perhaps, or<br />

maybe an uncertain future during hardship?<br />

There are a multitude of reasons, but according<br />

to renowned American psychologist<br />

Stephen Reiss, no less than 16 reasons<br />

exist that satisfy the need in human beings<br />

to believe in a higher power. Reiss espoused<br />

the view that religion attracts followers<br />

because it satisfies all of the 16 basic<br />

desires that humans share.<br />

Based on extensive research in the 1990s by<br />

surveying thousands of people, his team<br />

identified 16 basic desires that we, as humans,<br />

all share: acceptance, curiosity, eating,<br />

family, honour, idealism, independence,<br />

order, physical activity, power, romance,<br />

saving, social contact, status, tranquility and<br />

vengeance. (This research is described in<br />

Reiss’s book “Who Am I? The 16 Basic Desires<br />

that Motivate our Action and Define<br />

Our Personalities”). According to Reiss, apart<br />

from having the same 16 goals , the key lies<br />

in how much we value each reason – this<br />

varies from one individual to the next. Without<br />

further going into the psychology of<br />

why people choose to follow and believe<br />

another human being’s words of conviction,<br />

who is able to emotionally sway not hundreds<br />

but thousands of independent minds<br />

at one given time, let us rather examine the<br />

personalities themselves, where one of the<br />

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Described as “Nigeria’s<br />

biggest tourist attraction”, it is<br />

said that well over 2 million<br />

worshippers visit his SCOAN<br />

headquarters every year to<br />

attend services offered by his<br />

church. Statistics released by<br />

the Nigerian Immigration<br />

Service confirm that 6 out of 10<br />

tourists are SCOAN members.<br />

most prolific of prophets comes to mind. A<br />

man so revered by his flock that his country’s<br />

own government has had to request him not<br />

to relocate his headquarters, because of a<br />

looming economic loss if the steady influx of<br />

faith-based worshippers to the country were<br />

to come to a halt . It is said that 6 out of every<br />

10 tourists visiting Nigeria in West <strong>Africa</strong> are<br />

ardent followers of SCOAN – the Synagogue<br />

Church of All Nations, headquartered in the<br />

Ikotun-Egbe suburb of Lagos.<br />

From its beginning 30 years ago, the church<br />

has grown to be one of the most prolific and<br />

influential denominations – where there is a<br />

daily flow of visitors that come to the headquarter<br />

every day from all over the world,<br />

most from <strong>Africa</strong> in particular. TB Joshua as<br />

he is famously known – born Temitope Balogun<br />

Joshua , is the leader and founder of the<br />

Synagogue Church of All Nations (SCOAN) ,<br />

in Lagos, Nigeria.<br />

With an ever-growing presence online, presence<br />

such as YouTube and Facebook, as well<br />

as broadcasting on its own television channel<br />

Emmanuel TV, the innovative pastor has taken<br />

religious business to an extremely profitable<br />

level. Described as “Nigeria’s biggest tourist<br />

attraction”, it is said that well over 2 million<br />

worshippers visit his SCOAN headquarters<br />

every year to attend services offered by his<br />

church.<br />

Statistics released by the Nigerian Immigration<br />

Service confirm that 6 out of 10 tourists<br />

are SCOAN members. The has led to speculation<br />

that TB Joshua’s organisation commands<br />

the top spot for the most visited<br />

religious destination in West <strong>Africa</strong>. Various<br />

airlines have also got on board, so to speak,<br />

and increased their flight routes to Lagos in<br />

order to capitalise on influx. According to his<br />

supporters, his church and his organisation,<br />

which include Emmanuel TV, are synonymous<br />

with acts of kindness such as charity,<br />

healing and humanitarian efforts across the<br />

world.<br />

YouTube’s most popular pastor, as some<br />

would have us believe, was awarded the Officer<br />

of the Order of the Federal Republic<br />

(OFR) by the Nigerian Government in 2008,<br />

and also been named as one of <strong>Africa</strong>’s 50<br />

most influential people by Pan-<strong>Africa</strong>n magazines,<br />

The <strong>Africa</strong> Report and New <strong>Africa</strong>n<br />

Magazine. No mean feat; yet, among all the<br />

religious fanfare, adulation and hullabaloo,<br />

much controversy surrounds TB Joshua. Not<br />

surprisingly, rival Pentacostal pastors in Nigeria<br />

have slammed TB Joshua for various reasons,<br />

from allegations to him being an<br />

occultist to being a fraud for claiming to instantly<br />

heal people that have a terminal illness.<br />

The biggest news that thrust TB Joshua into<br />

the limelight however, happened on 12 September<br />

2014. A multi-storey guesthouse belonging<br />

to the Synagogue Church of All<br />

Nations in Ikotun-Egbe, Lagos, literally imploded<br />

and literally crumbled to the ground<br />

– with SCOAN worshippers inside. 116 SCOAN<br />

tourists perished in the disaster and much<br />

controversy and international news coverage<br />

followed after this incident, ranging from<br />

poor Nigerian medical and emergency services,<br />

withholding of information about the accident,<br />

no movement in the legal arena about<br />

if and when prosecution will ever take place.<br />

Three Nigerian government agencies, (the<br />

Nigeria Building And Road Research Institute<br />

(NBBRI), the Council for the Regulation of Engineering<br />

in Nigeria (COREN) and the Building<br />

Collapse Prevention Guild (BCPG) examined<br />

the collapsed building and concluded that<br />

the building had transgressed numerous<br />

structural engineering guidelines – it was a<br />

disaster waiting to happen. Since 2014, TB<br />

Joshua nor SCOAN have had any tangible<br />

legal charges processed against them, this<br />

within a quagmire of unsettled legal<br />

processes pursued by Nigerian authorities<br />

with SCOAN’s well-paid lawyers acting on<br />

behalf of the their famous client.<br />

Yet, if one were to believe Steven Reiss’ theory<br />

that all 16 reasons are catered for when it<br />

comes to why we as humans believe in a<br />

higher power – millions of SCOAN worshippers<br />

cannot be all misguided? Among the<br />

backstabbing, rumour mongering and behind<br />

the scenes intense religious political rivalry<br />

that Nigeria and its colourful pastor<br />

personalities offer, faith-based tourism commands<br />

a steady stream of visitors into West<br />

<strong>Africa</strong>’s most populated country.<br />

TB Joshua and his empire, which is built on<br />

the beliefs of millions of people using a Christian<br />

belief system, continues to grow and<br />

prosper. If anything, the 2014 tragedy has<br />

thrust SCOAN into the spotlight more than<br />

ever before, much to the chagrin and delight<br />

of his detractors and supporters alike.<br />

There is no doubt of how religious tourism<br />

affects a region. This is evident in the mushrooming<br />

of hotels and accommodation establishments<br />

that cater to the needs of<br />

worshippers. Havana Hotels, Pavilion Lodge,<br />

Paradise hotel, White Royal Hotel are just but<br />

a few among the hospitality industry that<br />

have developed in recent years not far from<br />

SCOAN’s headquarters in Lagos. Apart from<br />

the enormous revenue that the church is<br />

generating in taxes for the Nigerian Government,<br />

one can only hope that there is no link<br />

between the fact that there are no repercussions<br />

for SCOAN regarding the building collapse<br />

disaster, TB Joshua’s utterances of<br />

setting up shop in Israel - and the governments<br />

pleas for him to remain In Lagos,<br />

Nigeria.<br />

84 | www.nomadafricamag.com | ...Celebrating the world’s richest continent | Issue <strong>13</strong>


Marriott International<br />

REVEALS ROBUST EXPANSION PLANS ACROSS AFRICA<br />

marriott International<br />

recently<br />

announced<br />

rapid expansion<br />

plans across<br />

<strong>Africa</strong>. Strong<br />

demand for select-service<br />

brands and conversion opportunities<br />

are driving the momentum of<br />

growth for the company, amplified by five<br />

new hotel signings. The new signings will<br />

further consolidate Marriott International’s<br />

presence in Ghana, Kenya, Morocco and<br />

South <strong>Africa</strong> and mark the company’s entry<br />

into Mozambique. The signings put Marriott<br />

International on track to increase its portfolio<br />

by 50 percent with over 200 hotels and<br />

38,000 rooms by 2023, estimated to generate<br />

12,000 new job opportunities. Marriott<br />

International’s planned growth reinforces its<br />

commitment to <strong>Africa</strong> and underscores the<br />

substantial emphasis that countries across<br />

<strong>Africa</strong> are placing on the travel and tourism<br />

sector. The company estimates that the five<br />

new projects signed will drive investment of<br />

over $250 million by the property owners<br />

and will generate substantial economic activity.<br />

“Marriott International’s acquisition of<br />

Protea Hotels followed by the acquisition of<br />

Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide has<br />

given an impetus to our organic growth on<br />

the continent. Today, we are seeing strong<br />

owner interest in our brands, backed by our<br />

combined loyalty programme, the collective<br />

strength of our global platform and our<br />

highly-experienced, local teams,” said Alex<br />

Kyriakidis, President and Managing Director,<br />

Middle East and <strong>Africa</strong>, Marriott International.<br />

“<strong>Africa</strong>n economies have sustained unprecedented<br />

rates of growth, which have mainly<br />

been driven by a strong domestic demand,<br />

improved macroeconomic management<br />

and increased political stability. The continent<br />

is still under capacity as far as branded<br />

hotel supply is concerned, presenting us<br />

86 | www.nomadafricamag.com | ...Celebrating the world’s richest continent | Issue <strong>13</strong>


Tourism Updates<br />

with a fantastic opportunity to grow our<br />

brands and enhance our footprint,” he<br />

added. Currently, Marriott International is<br />

present in 21 countries on the <strong>Africa</strong>n continent:<br />

Algeria, Djibouti, Egypt, Ethiopia,<br />

Gabon, Ghana, Guinea, Kenya, Malawi, Mali,<br />

Mauritius, Morocco, Namibia, Nigeria,<br />

Rwanda, Seychelles, South <strong>Africa</strong>, Tanzania,<br />

Tunisia, Uganda and Zambia. The company<br />

is set to expand into new markets including<br />

Benin, Botswana, Ivory Coast, Mauritania,<br />

Mozambique and Senegal.<br />

Conversion Strategy Spurs Growth<br />

Marriott International continues to see increased<br />

interest from owners looking to<br />

maximise the value of their assets quickly,<br />

with many conversion opportunities across<br />

<strong>Africa</strong>. “The increasing demand for conversion<br />

deals from new and existing partners is<br />

a strong reflection of Marriott International’s<br />

powerful network, loyal customer base and<br />

commitment to deliver value for owners,”<br />

said Kyriakidis.<br />

“We've developed a conversion-friendly<br />

strategy, which allows us to deliver value to<br />

our partners through a flexible, cost-efficient<br />

process that yields almost immediate results.<br />

“That strategy gives our partners access to<br />

world-class reservation systems and our loyalty<br />

programme." Recent conversions to the<br />

company’s brands include Four Points by<br />

Sheraton Nairobi, Hurlingham, Four Points<br />

by Sheraton Arusha, The Arusha Hotel, Tanzania<br />

and the iconic Mena House, Cairo<br />

which joined the Marriott Hotels and Resorts<br />

global brand portfolio earlier this year.<br />

Amongst new conversion deals, Marriott International<br />

has signed the Marriott Marrakech<br />

Hotel in Morocco. With over 360<br />

rooms, the hotel is intended to be rebranded<br />

in 2020.<br />

Select-Service Brands in High Demand<br />

Marriott International’s select-service<br />

brands, including Four Points by Sheraton,<br />

Protea Hotels by Marriott and AC Hotels by<br />

Marriott, are experiencing unprecedented<br />

demand with vigorous expansion in both<br />

mature and emerging markets.<br />

Marriott International has signed two new<br />

hotels under the Protea Hotels by Marriott<br />

brand including Protea Hotel by Marriott<br />

Accra Kotoka Airport, Ghana and Protea<br />

Hotel by Marriott Nairobi, Kenya. Protea<br />

Hotel by Marriott Accra Kotoka Airport is<br />

planned to be a 200-room hotel strategically<br />

located in the prestigious airport residential<br />

area of Accra offering a restaurant, a<br />

Issue <strong>13</strong> | ...Celebrating the world’s richest continent | www.nomadafricamag.com | 87


As cities evolve and<br />

grow into<br />

flourishing urban<br />

centres, we will continue to see a lot<br />

of activity in this space. An<br />

international hotel brand can bring<br />

cachet to a project that positions it<br />

significantly above its peers. Our<br />

portfolio of diverse brands lends<br />

itself to grow in all markets,<br />

providing developers the flexibility<br />

and choice to identify the right<br />

brand for the right location. We<br />

believe this also provides an<br />

incredible opportunity to develop<br />

branded residences with our luxury<br />

brands.”<br />

lobby bar and lounge, small conference and<br />

meeting facilities, an air-crew lounge, a gym<br />

and a roof-top pool bar and lounge with uninterrupted<br />

views of the city.<br />

Protea Hotel by Marriott Nairobi will be located<br />

approximately 5 km from Jomo Kenyatta<br />

International Airport on Mombasa Road.<br />

Expected to open in 2021, the 250-room<br />

hotel will include a restaurant, a bar, a fitness<br />

centre, a pool and 600 square metres of<br />

meeting space. Earlier this year, Marriott International<br />

signed Protea Hotel by Marriott<br />

Pretoria Loftus Park, South <strong>Africa</strong>, which is intended<br />

to open later this year.<br />

The company also signed Four Points by<br />

Sheraton Nampula, Mozambique, which will<br />

be its first hotel in the country. The hotel, expected<br />

to open in 2023, is part of a mixeduse<br />

development consisting of a shopping<br />

centre, apartments, residential homes, a hospital,<br />

offices and the hotel.<br />

The 185-room property includes 100 hotel<br />

rooms and 85 extended stay units, food and<br />

beverage facilities, conferencing facilities, a<br />

fitness centre and a pool. Later this year, Marriott<br />

International will debut the AC by Marriott<br />

brand into <strong>Africa</strong> with the opening of the<br />

188-room AC by Marriott Cape Town, Waterfront,<br />

conveniently located just minutes away<br />

from the buzzing Victoria & Alfred Waterfront<br />

and just a 25-minute drive from Cape Town<br />

International Airport.<br />

The company has also signed its second AC<br />

by Marriott hotel in <strong>Africa</strong>, AC by Marriott<br />

Umhlanga Ridge, Durban, KwaZulu-Natal.<br />

The 205-room hotel will be a part of a mixeduse<br />

development comprised of offices and<br />

high-end residential apartments and boasts<br />

dramatic views of the Indian Ocean.<br />

Intended to open in 2023, the hotel is within<br />

easy access from major highways and in<br />

close proximity to the King Shaka International<br />

Airport. The company expects to introduce<br />

some of its other well-known<br />

select-service brands like Aloft Hotels, Element,<br />

Courtyard by Marriott and Residence<br />

Inn by Marriott with hotels already under development.<br />

It is also looking for opportunities<br />

to bring Fairfield by Marriott to the continent.<br />

Speaking on the increased interest in mixeduse<br />

development projects, Kyriakidis said, “As<br />

cities evolve and grow into flourishing urban<br />

centres,, we will continue to see a lot of activity<br />

in this space. An international hotel<br />

brand can bring cachet to a project that positions<br />

it significantly above its peers. Our portfolio<br />

of diverse brands lends itself to grow in<br />

all markets, providing developers the flexibility<br />

and choice to identify the right brand for the<br />

right location. We believe this also provides an<br />

incredible opportunity to develop branded<br />

residences with our luxury brands such as The<br />

Ritz-Carlton, St. Regis and W Hotels and we are<br />

actively pursuing this. Today, our brands account<br />

for nearly 60 percent of the global hospitality-branded<br />

residences market.”<br />

“<strong>Africa</strong> is a very compelling story for us. With<br />

our history on the continent, our footprint and<br />

strong pipeline, a diverse portfolio of brands<br />

and a robust management infrastructure, we<br />

believe that we enjoy the trust and the confidence<br />

of <strong>Africa</strong>’s hotel development community,”<br />

he added. Marriott International is<br />

enjoying a strong year of new hotel openings<br />

in <strong>Africa</strong>, which includes its first hotel in Mali -<br />

Sheraton Bamako - as well as the first Marriott<br />

Hotel in Accra.<br />

The company also debuted the Protea Hotel<br />

by Marriott brand in North <strong>Africa</strong> with the<br />

opening of Protea Hotel by Marriott Constantine.<br />

88 | www.nomadafricamag.com | ...Celebrating the world’s richest continent | Issue <strong>13</strong>


AFRICAN HEALTH MINISTERS<br />

commit to ending cholera outbreaks by 2030<br />

african Health Ministers<br />

have pledged to implement<br />

key strategies<br />

for ending cholera outbreaks<br />

in the <strong>Africa</strong>n<br />

region by 2030. Fortyseven<br />

<strong>Africa</strong>n countries<br />

adopted the Regional Framework for<br />

the Implementation of the Global Strategy<br />

for Cholera Prevention and Control at the<br />

68th session of the World Health Organization’s<br />

Regional Committee for <strong>Africa</strong>, which<br />

is taking place in Dakar, Senegal.<br />

“Cholera is a symbol of inequity,” said Dr<br />

Matshidiso Moeti, the WHO Regional Director<br />

for <strong>Africa</strong>. “It’s an ancient disease, which<br />

has been eliminated in many parts of the<br />

world. Every death from cholera is preventable.<br />

We have the know-how and today,<br />

countries have shown that they have the will<br />

to do whatever it takes to end cholera outbreaks<br />

by 2030. “Cholera is a major global<br />

public health problem, but the burden and<br />

impact of the waterborne disease is greatest<br />

in sub-Saharan <strong>Africa</strong>. In 2017, more than<br />

Cholera is a major global public health problem, but<br />

the burden and impact of the waterborne disease is greatest<br />

in sub-Saharan <strong>Africa</strong>.<br />

150 000 cholera cases, including more than<br />

3 000 deaths, were reported in 17 <strong>Africa</strong>n<br />

countries. This year, there has been a spike<br />

in cholera cases across <strong>Africa</strong>, with eight<br />

countries currently battling outbreaks.<br />

The region is vulnerable to cholera for a<br />

range of reasons. Ninety-two million people<br />

in <strong>Africa</strong> still drink water from unsafe<br />

sources. In rural areas, piped water is often<br />

unavailable and people practise open defecation.<br />

Humanitarian crises, climate change,<br />

rapid urbanisation and population growth<br />

are also increasing the risk of cholera<br />

spreading.<br />

In adopting the Regional Framework, countries<br />

pledged to reduce by 90 percent the<br />

magnitude of cholera outbreaks, particularly<br />

among vulnerable populations and in humanitarian<br />

crises. They agreed to take evidence-based<br />

actions, which include<br />

enhancing epidemiological and laboratory<br />

surveillance, mapping cholera hotspots, improving<br />

access to timely treatment,<br />

strengthening cross-border surveillance,<br />

promoting community engagement and<br />

the use of the Oral Cholera Vaccine (OCV)<br />

as well as increasing investments in clean<br />

water and sanitation for the most vulnerable<br />

communities.<br />

“WHO is working hand in hand with countries,<br />

providing key technical expertise and<br />

guidance,” said Dr Moeti. “The oral cholera<br />

vaccine has been shown to be highly effective<br />

and WHO has facilitated the vaccination<br />

of millions of people across <strong>Africa</strong>. We must<br />

continue to expand use of this new strategy.<br />

”From 20<strong>13</strong> to 2017, WHO supported 65<br />

cholera vaccination campaigns and supplied<br />

more than 16 million doses of vaccines<br />

to 18 countries globally, including 11 in <strong>Africa</strong>.<br />

Many of the campaigns in <strong>Africa</strong> have taken<br />

place in the context of a humanitarian crisis<br />

or natural disaster.<br />

Many of the risk factors for cholera such as<br />

poor sanitation and rapid urbanisation lie<br />

outside of the health sector and so WHO is<br />

working with a broad coalition of partners<br />

to engage with all relevant sectors to build<br />

a comprehensive and sustainable response<br />

throughout the region.<br />

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NAS and RwandAir partner<br />

To Provide Premier Lounge Services<br />

National Aviation Services (NAS), the fastest growing aviation services<br />

provider in the emerging markets, announced a joint venture agreement<br />

with Rwanda’s national flag carrier, RwandAir.<br />

the Joint Venture (JV) titled<br />

NAS RwandAir Limited, will be<br />

the exclusive lounge management<br />

company at Kigali<br />

International Airport (KIA).<br />

NASRwandAir is tasked with<br />

the construction and development<br />

of two new lounges<br />

at KIA, the RwandAir Dream<br />

Lounge dedicated to the airline’s premium<br />

passengers and an arrivals lounge. The JV<br />

will also take over management of the existing<br />

NAS Pearl Lounge in the departures<br />

area, which caters to other airline passengers<br />

as well.<br />

“The NASRwandAir JV is part of many initiatives<br />

RwandAir is putting in place to upgrade<br />

its business class service across its<br />

value chain, from dedicated areas at its<br />

town offices to fast track and quality services<br />

at airports, upgraded amenities and<br />

full-flat bed seats in our wide-bodied aircraft.”<br />

said Yvonne Manzi Makolo, CEO of<br />

RwandAir.” She added, “Business class passengers<br />

are extremely important to us and<br />

we have chosen to partner with NAS due to<br />

their track record in delivering results to premier<br />

customers.” The different lounges at<br />

KIA offer arriving and departing passengers<br />

an opportunity to relax, refresh and enjoy a<br />

meal before heading out of the airport or<br />

onwards to other destinations. For those<br />

wishing to catch up on work, the lounges<br />

are also fully equipped with Wi-Fi and business<br />

services.<br />

NASRwandAir will also extend meet and assist<br />

services to passengers at the airport, allowing<br />

for smoother passage through<br />

check-in and immigration processes. Hassan<br />

El Houry, Group CEO of NAS said, “By<br />

partnering with RwandAir, one of <strong>Africa</strong>’s<br />

fastest growing airline, we have reaffirmed<br />

our commitment to the aviation sector in<br />

Rwanda. Rwanda, as a country has demonstrated<br />

remarkable development and is an<br />

important geography for NAS in <strong>Africa</strong>. As<br />

we grow our footprint in the region, we<br />

continue to drive efforts to bring high quality<br />

international services into the country<br />

and further contribute to its growth.”<br />

From its hub at the heart of <strong>Africa</strong> at Kigali<br />

International Airport, RwandAir is reputed<br />

for its excellent on-time performance, customer<br />

service and safety, and has one of<br />

the youngest fleet on the <strong>Africa</strong>n continent.<br />

RwandAir, an IATA member airline renewed<br />

its IOSA certification and has been ISAGO<br />

and EASA certified.<br />

With a fleet of twelve aircraft, including two<br />

wide-body Airbus A330 acquired last year,<br />

the airline currently reaches out to twentysix<br />

(26) destinations across East, Central,<br />

West and Southern <strong>Africa</strong>, the Middle East,<br />

Europe and Asia. Last year, RwandAir started<br />

Yvonne Manzi Makolo, CEO of RwandAir.<br />

flights from Kigali to Mumbai, Harare, London<br />

(Gatwick) and Brussels as well as Dakar<br />

from its new hub in Cotonou. RwandAir also<br />

introduced flights to Abidjan, Libreville and<br />

Brazzaville from its Cotonou hub. “In April<br />

2018 RwandAir started flights to Abuja in<br />

Nigeria, and Cape Town in South <strong>Africa</strong><br />

joined our network effective 16th May, 2018.<br />

By the end of this year, RwandAir will spread<br />

its wings to Addis Ababa in Ethiopia. Next<br />

year, Guangzhou, Tel Aviv, Bamako and<br />

Conakry will also be added to our expanding<br />

network. RwandAir also plans to enter<br />

the American market with flights to New<br />

York, in the USA, the same year.”<br />

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92 | www.nomadafricamag.com | ...Celebrating the world’s richest continent | Issue <strong>13</strong>


Nature+Wildlife<br />

A RARE RHINO HORN<br />

HARVESTING EXPERIENCE<br />

Most people might not know that rhino horn can be harvested and<br />

regrows at about 20 centimetres, annually. The removal of rhino horn is generally<br />

associated with poaching that involves first killing the rhino and then mercilessly<br />

chopping off its horn, leaving an unsightly and bloody hole on its head.<br />

Words: EMMANUEL KORO<br />

when the world’s<br />

biggest rhino<br />

breeder, South<br />

<strong>Africa</strong>-based<br />

John Hume, invited<br />

some<br />

South <strong>Africa</strong>n<br />

journalists to his rhino breeding ranch this<br />

week, to witness rhino harvesting, they all<br />

said it was their first time to witness live<br />

rhino horn harvesting.<br />

The rhino harvesting work started at 7am.<br />

After the rhino horn harvesters at Mr Hume’s<br />

ranch, the Buffalo Dream Ranch (BDR) had<br />

travelled about two kilometres, five white<br />

rhinos burst into sight surrounded by two<br />

rhino camp masters on horseback.<br />

Their job involved restricting the movement<br />

of the rhino targeted for horn-harvesting so<br />

that darting would be easy. Suddenly, the<br />

sound of darting gunshot rang in the air and<br />

a white syringe could be seen stuck on the<br />

bum of the targeted rhino.<br />

After darting the rhino with great accuracy,<br />

the BDR Wildlife Veterinarian, Dr Michelle<br />

Otto, ordered the car she was in to stop and<br />

so did the others behind it. It was time to<br />

wait for the rhino to be sedated. Once hit by<br />

the dart, the rhino kept running with the<br />

other rhinos. About three minutes later, the<br />

darted rhino became visibly sedated. It<br />

started moving very slowly as if it was stuck<br />

in the mud. At this stage, Dr Otto swung into<br />

action again. This time not to dart the rhino,<br />

but to help the sedated animal lie gently on<br />

its feet. A team of rhino rangers involved in<br />

the rhino harvesting work jumped off the<br />

back of the four bakkies (small trucks), followed<br />

by journalists whose cameras kept<br />

on rolling till the horn was harvested.<br />

The rhino horn harvesting process took<br />

three minutes only. The rhino did not feel<br />

any pain. There was not even any blood on<br />

the horn as Mr Riaan Calitz, the BDR Section<br />

Manager, harvested it, using a reciprocating<br />

saw, while one staff member was pouring<br />

water on the horn to prevent any heat from<br />

being generated by the saw.<br />

Then the BDR General Manager, Mr Johnny<br />

Hennop, measured the weight, length and<br />

circumference of the horn, while other staff<br />

members took blood samples for DNA<br />

records of the rhino that would be sent to<br />

the Pretoria-based South <strong>Africa</strong>n Genetic<br />

Laboratory. Moments later, Mr Hennop<br />

packed the horn quickly and almost secretly.<br />

It seemed to be a reminder that we were<br />

witnessing a rare harvest of one of the<br />

world’s precious commodities under threat<br />

of extinction – the rhino horn.<br />

About a minute after the harvest, the rhino<br />

was back on its feet, broke into a trot and<br />

quickly reunited with its group. No pain, no<br />

blood and most importantly, no killing of the<br />

rhino. The harvest continued perfectly as it<br />

started until 18 rhinos had their horns harvested.<br />

“We can harvest rhino horn after<br />

every two to three years,” said John Hume.<br />

“Some of the rhinos have had their horns<br />

harvested up to five times.” One needs to<br />

apply to the Government for a permit before<br />

harvesting rhino horn. Two officers<br />

from South <strong>Africa</strong>’s Department of Environmental<br />

Affairs supervised the rhino harvesting<br />

process. Rhino horn harvesting is not<br />

very expensive if it is done without the use<br />

of a helicopter.<br />

The harvest at Mr Hume’s ranch involved the<br />

use of bakkies (small open trucks) at a total<br />

cost of up to US$320 per rhino. “We harvest<br />

about 600 horns annually and are currently<br />

enjoying a population growth rate of 200<br />

rhinos annually,” said Mr. Hume. However,<br />

Mr. Hume is a unique harvester. While most<br />

harvesters and particularly farmers, harvest<br />

knowing when and where exactly they are<br />

going to sell their produce, Mr. Hume harvests<br />

with the hope that one day he will be<br />

allowed to sell his rhino horn as permits to<br />

sell rhino horn “are the most difficult thing to<br />

be issued with by the Government.” “Now<br />

we prefer the new term as rhino harvesting<br />

not dehorning because it better portrays<br />

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John Hume - the world's biggest Rhino breeder.<br />

94 | www.nomadafricamag.com | ...Celebrating the world’s richest continent | Issue <strong>13</strong>


Our white rhino project has an excellent breeding<br />

and protection rate. Over the past 10 years, we have had<br />

an overall 9.7percent population growth.”<br />

what we do – we save the rhinos’ lives and<br />

not the horn,” said Mr Hume. “To save the<br />

rhino, you have to harvest and sell its horn<br />

but I am currently a hopeful harvester of<br />

rhino horn, as I currently can’t trade in about<br />

7 000 kilogrammes of rhino horns that I have<br />

harvested so far. Unfortunately, hope does<br />

not pay for the staff salaries, rhino security,<br />

buy supplementary rhino feed and the<br />

other million expenses that I have to meet.”<br />

He said that it was taking long for him to get<br />

permits from the Government to sell his harvested<br />

rhino horns.<br />

In September 2017, Mr. Hume attracted local,<br />

regional and international media attention<br />

with his world-first legal online rhino horn<br />

auction. “The Government’s delays to issue<br />

permits to the buyers unfortunately resulted<br />

in them asking for their money back and the<br />

exercise did not bring the much anticipated<br />

success,” said Mr. Hume. Mr Hume said his<br />

“primary purpose is to save the rhino from<br />

extinction” and not only to “profit” from the<br />

sale of horn. Therefore, the income from the<br />

rhino horn sales is very important to his continuing<br />

rhino conservation efforts, as it<br />

would be used to cover security, veterinary<br />

bills, rhino supplementary feed, staff and<br />

range expansion costs.<br />

Meanwhile, Mr Hume is currently paying<br />

about US$160 rhino storage fees, excluding<br />

insurance. His annual rhino security system<br />

bill is about US$2 million, excluding the<br />

salaries of rangers and other staff. He recently<br />

purchased an over US$3 million security<br />

system through a loan that is not fully<br />

paid yet. However, Mr Hume draws a lot of<br />

comfort from this security system that can<br />

spot poachers or trespassers, while they are<br />

half-a-kilometre away from his rhino ranch<br />

fence boundary.<br />

“Last week, we spotted an intruder, while he<br />

was 500 metres away from the ranch, said<br />

Mr Hume. “If a poacher gets in and shoots a<br />

rhino, he would be arrested within minutes<br />

because the entire area is covered by radar<br />

security system.” Mr Hume has so far spent<br />

about a U$100 million lifetime fortune on<br />

rhino breeding. Therefore, he cannot wait till<br />

the Government issues him with permits to<br />

trade in his approximately 7 000 kilogrammes<br />

of stockpiled rhino horn.<br />

“At the same time we keep positive,” said Mr<br />

Hume who recently offered to share his<br />

white rhino breeding skills with Southern<br />

<strong>Africa</strong>n rural communities so that they too<br />

can contribute to rhino conservation. “Our<br />

white rhino project has an excellent breeding<br />

and protection rate.<br />

“Over the past 10 years, we have had an<br />

overall 9.7 percent population growth. I believe<br />

that this project is a blue print for restocking<br />

our national wildlife reserves when<br />

they have done away with the poaching crisis<br />

and even to restock <strong>Africa</strong>’s rhino populations.”<br />

i ABOUT THE WRITER<br />

Emmanuel Koro is a Johannesburg-based international<br />

award-winning environmental journalist who has<br />

extensively covered conservation and development<br />

issues in <strong>Africa</strong>n countries.<br />

Issue <strong>13</strong> | ...Celebrating the world’s richest continent | www.nomadafricamag.com | 95


WOMEN<br />

THE FUTURE OF AFRICAN CONSERVATION?<br />

Gender inclusivity is becoming increasingly relevant in<br />

today’s professional world and changing the dialogue around the role of<br />

women in the workforce. On the <strong>Africa</strong>n continent — whether it is through<br />

farming, politics, economics, or conservation — new programmes geared<br />

towards empowering women are surfacing.<br />

w<br />

ith decades of<br />

experience<br />

working in<br />

various landscapes,<br />

the<br />

A f r i c a n<br />

Wildlife Foundation (AWF) recognises that<br />

conservation holds immense promise for<br />

the growth and empowerment of women.<br />

Not only do women joining conservation<br />

double the number of able people protecting<br />

biodiversity, but they also get the oppor-<br />

Words: EMMA SOLLITT<br />

tunity to capitalise on the unique relationship<br />

that they have with the natural environment.<br />

According to AWF’s Fiesta Warinwa, “<strong>Africa</strong>n<br />

women are the natural custodians of the environment.<br />

“They pay the price when it comes to the social<br />

and economic effects of factors associated<br />

with environment and conservation.”<br />

Women are more directly affected by the<br />

degradation of the environment. Much of<br />

the livelihood of <strong>Africa</strong>n women relies upon<br />

the stability of the environment around them<br />

and its decline has impacted women disproportionally<br />

to men.<br />

An Ecofeminist Approach to Conservation<br />

Ecofeminists believe that patriarchal societies<br />

exploit both nature and women according<br />

to the same male-centered<br />

framework. They examine the effect of gender<br />

categories to demonstrate the ways in<br />

which social norms exert unjust dominance<br />

over women and nature. As such, involving<br />

women in conservation — a resistance<br />

96 | www.nomadafricamag.com | ...Celebrating the world’s richest continent | Issue <strong>13</strong>


Many examples of the success and perseverance of <strong>Africa</strong>n women in<br />

conservation provide hope for generations to come. From the<br />

Black Mamba majority-female anti-poaching group in South <strong>Africa</strong>,<br />

the Akashinga all-female anti-poaching group in Zimbabwe, and the<br />

female rangers in Virunga...<br />

against the ongoing destruction of natural<br />

resources — not only has the potential to<br />

empower them, but also to positively<br />

change their future. Many examples of the<br />

success and perseverance of <strong>Africa</strong>n<br />

women in conservation provide hope for<br />

generations to come.<br />

From the Black Mamba majority-female antipoaching<br />

group in South <strong>Africa</strong>, the<br />

Akashinga all-female anti-poaching group in<br />

Zimbabwe, and the female rangers in<br />

Virunga, <strong>Africa</strong>’s women are showing the<br />

world that protecting natural resources provides<br />

opportunities to rise from social and financial<br />

oppression. There are also women<br />

like eco-activist and Nobel Peace Prize winner<br />

Wangari Maathai, who led the fight<br />

against deforestation in Kenya, and continues<br />

to inspire thousands more like her to<br />

plant more trees. It is strong individuals like<br />

her who are redefining how the world treats<br />

both women and the environment.<br />

What is Gender Mainstreaming?<br />

Around the world, women, men, girls, and<br />

boys have different relationships with the environment<br />

— roles and responsibilities differ<br />

as well as their needs. They also derive different<br />

benefits from their natural surroundings.<br />

With various opportunities and<br />

challenges, the participation of both men<br />

and women in decision-making is vital at<br />

multiple levels — from the household and<br />

community levels, all the way through national<br />

and international spheres.<br />

Evidence shows that enhancing women’s<br />

and girl’s empowerment and promoting<br />

gender equality can trigger transformative<br />

impacts across sectors, resulting in increased<br />

food supply, improved health and economic<br />

security, as well as innovation and efficiency<br />

in forestry, climate change mitigation, plus<br />

protected area and water management.<br />

Gender mainstreaming systematically integrates<br />

gender perspectives into all areas of<br />

the professional world, allowing various<br />

ideas to be equally implemented and acknowledged<br />

in decision-making processes.<br />

Institutionalised discrimination and cultural<br />

biases based on gender uphold some of the<br />

most pervasive inequalities in the world. Although<br />

the fight for gender equality often<br />

prioritises women and their engagement<br />

and empowerment, it does not necessarily<br />

mean that feminism represents the needs of<br />

women only. Nor does it mean that men<br />

cannot be active allies, advocates, and<br />

agents for change. Men must be continuously<br />

engaged to understand issues of discrimination,<br />

(in)equity, and (in)equality and<br />

play their part in the betterment of all.<br />

In urban and rural <strong>Africa</strong>, the recognition of<br />

the opinions of women is important — they<br />

must be included in decision-making<br />

processes, starting at home and extending<br />

into the workplace and the field.<br />

Empowering women early on at the community<br />

level will allow them to excel in the<br />

workplace with more confidence and skills.<br />

With the close relationship that women<br />

share with the environment, the <strong>Africa</strong>n<br />

Wildlife Foundation recognises that it is especially<br />

important to achieve gender mainstreaming<br />

in all of its programmes and<br />

policies.<br />

In response to the Sustainable Development<br />

Goal 5 on gender equality, the AWF seeks to<br />

promote a more inclusive approach to advance<br />

equality across the continent. The<br />

comprehensive framework must improve<br />

the positions of all people, and particularly<br />

those of marginalised or disenfranchised<br />

groups.<br />

i<br />

ABOUT THE WRITER<br />

Emma Sollitt interned at <strong>Africa</strong>n Wildlife<br />

Foundation, supporting Kathleen Fitzgerald,<br />

Vice President Programs East and Southern<br />

<strong>Africa</strong>. After spending one month at <strong>Africa</strong>n<br />

Wildlife Foundation's headquarters in<br />

Nairobi, she continued her work from the<br />

Washington DC office. Emma is an undergraduate<br />

going into her third year at St.<br />

Lawrence University with a double major in<br />

History and Government and a minor in<br />

<strong>Africa</strong>n Studies. She is originally from Jackson<br />

Hole, Wyoming.<br />

Issue <strong>13</strong> | ...Celebrating the world’s richest continent | www.nomadafricamag.com | 97


Back Seat<br />

Where Else in Cape Town<br />

IF NOT TABLE MOUNTAIN?<br />

Cape Town is one of the few cities in <strong>Africa</strong> (if not the world)<br />

that effortlessly blends together vibrancy, local culture, fine cuisine and dining,<br />

beaches, outdoor activities and a rich history.<br />

WORDS: LORRAINE MASEMOLA<br />

this spectacular city has<br />

breath-taking views that<br />

would leave you wishing<br />

for more. The fine mountains<br />

are the most daring to<br />

see. As you get to Cape<br />

Town, you are able to see<br />

the flat-top of Table Mountain.<br />

During your time in the city, be sure not to<br />

miss the most prestigious fine architectural<br />

lions head on the mountain, which is rarest<br />

and amazing to find. This city is most definitely<br />

worth the experience. There are lots<br />

of activities to do here. When hiking, be<br />

sure to carry a warm jersey, and wear comfortable<br />

closed shoes, running shoes. I<br />

would recommend your trail running<br />

shoes. It turns to be windy on top of Table<br />

Mountain, so I would strongly recommend<br />

you bring a warm jersey and a bottle of<br />

something to drink.<br />

As you reach the top, you are able to see<br />

the whole city from Table Mountain and<br />

the city stretches right around the foot of<br />

the mountain in all directions. Going up by<br />

cable car may be an ideal option, but<br />

could involve a long wait in prime tourist<br />

season.<br />

Once you have reached the top of Table<br />

Mountain take a moment to just see the incredible<br />

Signal Hill, Devils Peak, and Lion’s<br />

Head and all the way to Robben Island and<br />

out. Including the largest informal settlement<br />

called Khayelitsha. Cape Town is one<br />

of the most beautiful cities. It has too many<br />

tourist attractions that make you want to<br />

just spend the whole day wishing it never<br />

ends. Head for the V&A Waterfront to<br />

catch the red sightseeing bus; the golf<br />

course, the Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens,<br />

Boomslang Walkway, which makes<br />

its way to the arboretum canopy, company’s<br />

garden which has the library.<br />

In the parks on the south you find SA planetarium<br />

and museum. Just a few steps<br />

away you’ll see the National Gallery. A few<br />

blocks away is the District Six. For your history<br />

knowledge The Waterfront is also the<br />

gateway to the famous prison on the<br />

Robben Island.<br />

The place is a small island away from the<br />

big city, where Mandela was locked up for<br />

almost 18 years of his life during the<br />

apartheid era. If you find yourself in Cape<br />

Town just for a weekend of alone time or<br />

family time, I would most definitely recommend<br />

Table Mountain. This place offers so<br />

much and at an affordable price. Things<br />

you can do here are very interesting; catch<br />

a cable car, grab a bite on the top of the<br />

mountain, enjoy the view, retail therapy,<br />

Wi-Fi lounge, go hiking, watch the sunset.<br />

There are simply so many things to do<br />

even in limited time. Seeing it all at night is<br />

the most amazing feeling ever. Want to<br />

take a stroll just to stretch your legs but also<br />

enjoy the place be free to walk on the Milnerton<br />

beach. The Eastern side of your<br />

Cape Peninsula you’ll be sure to find the<br />

slightly warmer sea by the False Bay. --Bokaap<br />

would most probably be your most<br />

calm sensational feeling with its different<br />

vibrant multicolour apartments. Being on<br />

the Victoria and Alfred Waterfront you’re<br />

most likely to see the Two Oceans Aquarium<br />

and Indian oceans.<br />

A little further South, you will encounter the<br />

most expensive houses and hotels such as<br />

your V&A Waterfront beach hotel. Camps<br />

Bay beach will leave you more dazzling<br />

with over 20 restaurants and cafes. Most<br />

visitors take the leisurely approach and<br />

catch the cable car straight to the top of<br />

this Natural Wonder of the World, but consider<br />

hiring a mountain guide and setting<br />

out to climb Table Mountain on foot. With<br />

a huge network of hiking trails, unique fynbos<br />

vegetation, secret forests, dams, waterfalls,<br />

isolated valleys and phenomenal<br />

views to discover, a day spent climbing<br />

Table Mountain is sure to be a highlight of<br />

your Cape Town holiday.<br />

Besides Table Mountain experience, you<br />

have guest house, hotels, bed and breakfast<br />

accommodation to suit your every<br />

need. I had the best choice of moving in<br />

the guest house, which was closer to the<br />

Table Mountain, it has the magnificent view<br />

from the Alta Bay Guesthouse which, if you<br />

are looking for free Wi-Fi, quiet time, spectacular<br />

view, comforts, value for money<br />

then I suggest look no further than this<br />

awesome “home” called Alta Bay. You<br />

won’t be missing out on anything. The famous<br />

late Nelson Mandela once said that<br />

“wherever you are in Cape Town, Table<br />

Mountain is there”<br />

98 | www.nomadafricamag.com | ...Celebrating the world’s richest continent | Issue <strong>13</strong>

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