Fah Thai Magazine Nov-Dec 2018

CHAM CULTURE
Right
Artefacts
belonging to the
Cham civilisation,
the likes of brick
flooring, their
sandstone pillars,
and pottery pieces,
go as far back as
the second
century A.D.
Below
Red-brick temples
give Cham towers
their distinction.
The entrance hallway that leads
to the central sanctuary is called
the mandapa, while a separate
building with a saddle-shaped
roof, the kosagrha, is used for
storing objects relating to the
deity. Finally, the gopura is an
arched gateway that leads into
the temple complex.
For anyone intrigued by Cham
culture, a visit to the UNESCO
World Heritage Site of My Son
(pronounced ‘mee sern’) is a
must. American bombs destroyed
much of this temple city during
the 1960s, but restoration work
has been going on steadily and
the site, surrounded as it is by
lush green hills, exudes an eerie
spirituality. Though comparisons
with Angkor are inappropriate as
the scale here is much smaller,
the silent evidence of a highly
developed ancient culture is
similarly awe-inspiring.
An informative museum at
the entrance to the complex
helps visitors to identify different
aspects of temple architecture, as
well as strange mythical creatures
such as the gajasimha, a combination
of lion and elephant, and the
hamsa, a mythical bird. Despite
its remote feel, My Son is just a
short ride from either Hoi An or
Da Nang, so it’s easy to get to,
but since a visit entails a lot of
walking, it’s better to go there
either early or late in the day to
avoid the midday sun.
Besides being innovative and
accomplished temple builders, the
Chams are also excellent sculptors
in stone, and this is clear to see
at the Da Nang Museum of Cham
Culture, which makes an ideal first
or last stop on a tour to learn about
the Chams. Most of the exhibits are
huge slabs of sandstone that were
meticulously crafted centuries ago,
and were later removed from the
Cham temples they adorned for
safekeeping. Delightful depictions of
Hindu gods and mythical creatures
reflect a vibrant culture that achieved
great artistic heights in its heyday.
Even today, though more subdued,
Cham culture is alive and well, and
thoroughly charming.
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