Eatdrink #74 November/December 2018

The local food & drink magazine serving London, Stratford and Southwestern Ontario since 2007

The local food & drink magazine serving London, Stratford and Southwestern Ontario since 2007


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Issue <strong>#74</strong> | The Holiday Issue | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

eatdrink<br />

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Gift<br />


Guide<br />

page 22<br />

Reverie<br />

A Modernist Canadian<br />

Tasting Menu<br />

Restaurant<br />


The Church Key Bistro-Pub<br />

An Upscale Pub with Great Food<br />

The Farm to Table Cookbook<br />

Celebrating Stratford Chefs School<br />

St. Marys Road Trip<br />

The Pleasures of a Small Town<br />

Serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario since 2007<br />







You’ll discover unique and individual<br />

gift ideas when you stroll our festive<br />

streets. We’ve made it easy to kick<br />

off your holiday shopping with<br />

The Christmas Trail – six gifts<br />

for just $30*. And because it’s<br />

Stratford, be on the lookout<br />

for seven swans a swimming.<br />

Purchase your pass<br />

at Stratford Tourism,<br />

47 Downie Street.<br />

visitstratford.ca<br />

*plus HST

eatdrink<br />

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine<br />

eatdrinkmagazine<br />

@eatdrinkmag<br />

eatdrinkmag<br />

eatdrink.ca<br />

Think Global. Read Local.<br />

Publisher<br />

Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca<br />

Managing Editor Cecilia Buy – cbuy@eatdrink.ca<br />

Food Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca<br />

Copy Editor Kym Wolfe<br />

Social Media Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca<br />

Advertising Sales Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca<br />

Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca<br />

Stacey McDonald – stacey@eatdrink.ca<br />

Terry-Lynn “TL” Sim – TL@eatdrink.ca<br />

Finances<br />

Ann Cormier – finance@eatdrink.ca<br />

Graphics<br />

Chris McDonell, Cecilia Buy<br />

Writers<br />

Jane Antoniak, Gerry Blackwell,<br />

Tanya Chopp, Darin Cook,<br />

Andrew Coppolino, Gary Killops,<br />

George Macke, Nancy McSloy,<br />

Tracy Turlin<br />

Photographers Steve Grimes, Phong Tran<br />

Telephone & Fax 519-434-8349<br />

Mailing Address 525 Huron Street, London ON N5Y 4J6<br />

Website<br />

City Media<br />

Printing<br />

Sportswood Printing<br />


It’s a family affair, with<br />

Jerrah Revilles, Brian<br />

Sua-an and their daughter<br />

Saisha Sua-an, at Reverie,<br />

their “Tasting Menu<br />

Restaurant” on Piccadilly<br />

Street in London.<br />

Photo by Phong Tran for<br />

Lavery Culinary Group<br />

© <strong>2018</strong> <strong>Eatdrink</strong> Inc. and the writers.<br />

All rights reserved.<br />

Reproduction or duplication of any material published in <strong>Eatdrink</strong><br />

or on <strong>Eatdrink</strong>.ca is strictly prohibited without the written permission<br />

of the Publisher. <strong>Eatdrink</strong> has a printed circulation of 20,000<br />

issues published six times annually in each of two markets, for a total<br />

of 240,000 copies in print. The views or opinions expressed in the<br />

information, content and/or advertisements published in <strong>Eatdrink</strong><br />

or online are solely those of the author(s) and do not necessarily<br />

represent those of the Publisher. The Publisher welcomes submissions<br />

but accepts no responsibility for unsolicited material.<br />

Serving up<br />

Great<br />

partnerships<br />

commercial | digital | wide format | design<br />

Let us help with your next project...<br />

519.866.5558 | ben@sportswood.on.ca<br />


Contents<br />

Issue <strong>#74</strong> | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

The Holiday Issue<br />

Publisher’s Notes<br />

Friends and Family<br />

<strong>Eatdrink</strong> and Be Merry<br />


6<br />

ring in the holidays at the grand!<br />

Restaurants<br />

Modernist Canadian Cuisine<br />

Reverie: A Tasting Menu Restaurant<br />


8<br />

An Upscale Pub with Great Food<br />

The Church Key Bistro-Pub<br />


12<br />

Road Trips<br />

Take Your Time<br />

Discovering the Pleasures of St. Marys<br />

By NANCY McSLOY On Stage<br />

16 this <strong>December</strong><br />

Culinary Retail<br />

Our Annual Gift Guide<br />

Ideas from the Experts<br />

22<br />

Wine<br />

The Gift of Wine<br />

Suggestions for this Holiday Season<br />


28<br />

Beer<br />

By Charles Dickens<br />

Adapted by Dennis Garnhum<br />

519.672.8800 grandtheatre.com<br />

Cold, and Dark<br />

Malty Darker Beers for Winter<br />


32<br />

28<br />

8<br />

The BUZZ<br />

Culinary Community Notes<br />

36<br />

Theatre<br />

Scrooge Gets a Gender Flip<br />

Christmas at The Grand Theatre<br />


48<br />

48<br />

Music<br />

Holiday Notes<br />

Upcoming Musical Highlights<br />


51<br />

Starring<br />

Jan Alexandra<br />

12<br />

Recipes<br />

Smith as Scrooge<br />

Farm to Table<br />

“<br />

Celebrating Stratford Chefs School<br />

BRILLIANT” Review & Recipe Selections by TRACY TURLIN<br />

london free press<br />

55<br />

“JOYFUL”<br />

intermission<br />

season sponsor<br />

55<br />

32<br />

title sponsor<br />

Books<br />

Provence Through the Years<br />

My 25 Years in Provence<br />

Review by DARIN COOK<br />

60<br />

The Lighter Side<br />

Salvaging the Magic of Eggnog<br />


62<br />


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Book Now for<br />

Christmas Day<br />

Buffet!<br />

JOIN US<br />

For Our Famous All-You-Can-Eat<br />

Dickens Lunch Buffet<br />

<strong>November</strong> 26 to <strong>December</strong> 21<br />

Monday to Friday 11:30am to 2pm<br />

Call for reservations<br />

519-430-6414<br />

/Blakes2ndFloor<br />


6 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Publisher’s Notes<br />

Friends and Family<br />

<strong>Eatdrink</strong> and Be Merry<br />


The <strong>Eatdrink</strong> Holiday Issue is one of<br />

our most fun to put together. While<br />

we always celebrate the enjoyment<br />

of good food and drink, there is<br />

something special about that at this time<br />

of year. We tend to be more intentional in<br />

connecting with the people that are important<br />

in our lives, whether they are work colleagues,<br />

neighbours, or relatives. The timing is perfect<br />

to have a family on the cover, and this one in<br />

particular. Chef Brian Sua-an and Jerrah Revilles<br />

brought their daughter Saisha into the portrait<br />

with pride, a quality reflected in the work they<br />

do with Reverie, their tasting menu restaurant.<br />

You will read about a similar theme at The<br />

Church Key Bistro-Pub, where Vanessa and Peter<br />

Willis have manifested their own vision for what<br />

a restaurant can be. May both families serve as<br />

inspiration for heartfelt sharing of meals and<br />

joyful celebrations for all of us.<br />

Our regular columnists, always keeping with<br />

the seasons, are of service again in this issue,<br />

and our annual Gift Guide provides a bonus<br />

slate of insightful suggestions. You will also<br />

see dozens of businesses ready to take on some<br />

of the pressures of the holidays for you, and<br />

they really are the experts. Place your trust in<br />

them with confidence. We hope you enjoy every<br />

moment of all the festivities.<br />

Peace,<br />

Benmiller Inn & Spa<br />

gather with great friends and divine dining<br />

www.benmiller.ca | 519-524-2191 | 1-800-265-1711<br />

81175 Benmiller Line, Goderich, N7A 3Y1

London’s New Culinary Adventure!<br />

African Breakfast<br />

Sundays<br />

“Reasonably priced, fresh, well-executed<br />

Ethiopian cuisine ...” — Bryan Lavery, <strong>Eatdrink</strong><br />


• Vegetarian &<br />

Vegan Options<br />

• Takeout<br />

• Catering<br />

• Reservations<br />

Recommended<br />

ADDIS ABABA Restaurant<br />

Tuesday–Sunday 11am–10pm by reservation<br />

Closed Monday<br />

465 Dundas Street 519 433-4222<br />

www.tgsaddisababarestaurant.com<br />


Serving locally<br />

sourced food and<br />

international flavours<br />

with an experience<br />

delivered by students<br />

of Fanshawe College.<br />

Open Monday to Friday<br />

for lunch and dinner<br />

130 Dundas St. London, Ontario<br />

519-452-4433<br />

fanshawec.ca/TheChefsTable<br />


Purchase a $50 gift card at<br />

the restaurant and receive a<br />

free pair of wine glasses<br />

(while supplies last).<br />

Perfect for the holidays.

8 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Restaurants<br />

Modernist Canadian Cuisine<br />

Reverie, A Tasting Menu Restaurant, in London<br />


Dining at Reverie is the ultimate<br />

example of a blind tasting menu<br />

in London. While the setting is<br />

minimalist and casual, with an<br />

open kitchen and seating for only<br />

12 on unadorned wooden tables, this culinary<br />

adventure is anything but simple. Chef Brian<br />

Sua-an is unabashedly confident in how he<br />

and his wife, Jerrah Revilles, approach this<br />

unique restaurant. He offers that the concept<br />

is not for everyone and he is fine with that.<br />

Five courses of five to seven bites per plate<br />

are created by Chef and served to the guests<br />

of the evening at a set price of $75. “We only<br />

serve quality. I’d rather serve small but high<br />

quality. I want it to be straight-forward and<br />

also have a surprise factor when it comes out<br />

on the plate.”<br />

Dinner starts promptly at 7:05 with a bread<br />

basket. Guests are to arrive at 7 pm in groups<br />

of four or less if they want to sit together<br />

in the small space. They pick up their own<br />

cutlery on the way in. Table service is limited<br />

to the serving of the plates by the couple and<br />

a wine pairing ($50/person, or whole bottles<br />

which guests pour for themselves). The whole<br />

experience lasts two to three hours. “Stay as<br />

long as you want,” says Chef.<br />

“I didn’t want to work in a kitchen that is<br />

all about production, without creativity, like<br />

a factory,” he says. “So I try to be ahead of the<br />

curve, to be as creative as possible, but not<br />

that far off of the basics.”<br />

So if it takes three days to create his now<br />

trademark lemon dessert, it takes three days.<br />

The resulting satisfaction, while a treat for<br />

guests, is ultimately for Chef himself. “The<br />

main concept is doing what we feel is really<br />

nice for us. At the end of the day what matters<br />

is we are happy with what we are putting out,”<br />

he says.<br />

The couple has worked hard to land in<br />

London from the Philippines. Revilles is an<br />

occupational therapist who gained entrance<br />

to Canada in 2015, then sponsored her<br />

husband and their daughter, Saisha Sua-an.<br />

The couple had met while working as nurses.<br />

Chef decided to switch to culinary and “set<br />

my mind that I wanted to be the best.” He<br />

trained with Japanese teachers who he says<br />

taught him to be anything but ordinary. Once<br />

in Canada, he began working at a Yorkville<br />

pastry shop where he found a true love for<br />

dessert creations. His lemon dessert is an<br />

Jerrah Revilles, Brian Sua-an and their daughter Saisha<br />

Sua-an, at Reverie on Piccadilly Street in London

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 9<br />

illusion; what looks like a lemon on the outside is actually<br />

white chocolate mousse with an intense lemon confit on<br />

the inside. “It takes three days to make and 30 seconds<br />

to eat,” he says laughing. “It’s like life, it’s fleeting, like a<br />

shooting star. It’s so nice and you love it and then it’s gone.<br />

It’s not about quantity but quality.”<br />

Clockwise from top right:<br />

Sous vide McIntosh Farm Lamb Shoulder with Napa cabbage and pearl<br />

onions with buttermilk and dill;<br />

Northern Harvest Salmon cured in coffee and kombucha wrapped in<br />

Swiss chard with edible flowers and fresh horseradish;<br />

Fresh and candied tomatoes with chewy beets and kelp oil.<br />


Plus get your own car cleaned and detailed!<br />

eatdrink &<br />

Presented by<br />

Enter at www.facebook.com/eatdrinkmag<br />

Contest ends <strong>December</strong> 28, <strong>2018</strong>. Complete details online.<br />

Congratulations Dell-Anne Gowler-Wilson,<br />

winner of our September/October Draw!

10 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Lemon with white chocolate mousse with<br />

yuzu, lemon gelee, lemon confit, fresh<br />

lemon and Cuban mint (above).<br />

Brown Butter ice cream with hazelnut and<br />

barley koji<br />

Chef furthered his career as a<br />

pastry instructor at Centennial<br />

College. He also cooked at a<br />

French-Mediterranean restaurant<br />

in North York. Just as the couple<br />

was making plans to move to<br />

London, looking for a quieter life<br />

with less traffic, he was accepted<br />

as an apprentice at Noma, the<br />

renowned “best restaurant in the<br />

world” as selected four times by the World’s<br />

Best 50 Restaurants list. Chefs go to Noma<br />

as unpaid apprentices, staging, to learn new<br />

techniques. Sua-an also apprenticed at Noma’s<br />

sister restaurant, 108 in Copenhagen. There<br />

he developed his passion for locally sourced<br />

ingredients that drive the tasting menu<br />

concept he now puts forth at Reverie.<br />

“I realized it should just be about the food.<br />

Skip all the gimmicks. So here at Reverie, I<br />

did away with a lot of things too. We have to<br />

be efficient.” There is also no storage –– the<br />

wine racks and tiny kitchen and supplies<br />

are on full display.<br />

While there, a delivery<br />

of beets, carrots,<br />

and onions arrived<br />

in a box from Urban<br />

Roots London. Chef<br />

preserves vegetables<br />

at the peak of their<br />

flavour, and keeps them<br />

on a rack at the side<br />

of the restaurant. He<br />

makes his own oils and<br />

buttermilk and sources<br />

ingredients regionally<br />

Jerrah Revilles and Brian<br />

Sua-an working in Reverie’s<br />

open kitchen

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

or from Toronto and Niagara. He only serves<br />

biodynamic wines that contain no sulfites<br />

or additives, such as A Pét-Nat, Nebulous<br />

by Rosewood, or 3XP Chardonnay, wild<br />

fermented by Nicholas Pearce. Otherwise, he<br />

offers guests water (no ice) and sometimes a<br />

house made kombucha.<br />

Chef does enjoy talking to guests once<br />

the meal ends, often explaining his cooking<br />

techniques. For example, his McIntosh Farms<br />

lamb leg is cooked for 24 hours and served<br />

confit with buttermilk and a dill oil sauce. His<br />

“not your average beet” is cooked for an hour,<br />

dehydrated overnight, then rehydrated with<br />

lemon balm to one-third its original size. Chef<br />

describes it as having the rich texture of meat.<br />

He delights in this surprise for guests who are<br />

often shocked to realize it is a beet.<br />

He does try to accommodate nut-free and<br />

gluten-free diets. However he says that vegan<br />

is a challenge for his tasting menu as he relies<br />

on butter. Despite these challenges, he is<br />

seeing a high percentage of repeat customers<br />

and private bookings since he opened in 2017,<br />

including other chefs from around the region<br />

and guests from Toronto. “It’s 100 percent<br />

what we want and we won’t compromise.<br />

It’s just Plan A and if we fail, we fail. I would<br />

rather fail then succeed and be unhappy.”<br />

And what does the future hold? Chef hints<br />

he would love to start selling custom cakes,<br />

offer cooking classes, and possibly venture<br />

into some pop-ups. His adventure in London<br />

is evolving and by his own admission, he<br />

hates being bored. Clearly, Reverie is anything<br />

but boring.<br />

Reverie<br />

1-208 Piccadilly Street, London<br />

519-914-6595<br />

reverierestaurant.ca<br />

thursday to saturday evenings at 7pm<br />

Private group bookings available on request.<br />

JANE ANTONIAK is a regular contributor to <strong>Eatdrink</strong>.<br />

She is also Manager, Communications & Media Relations,<br />

at King’s University College in London.<br />

at The Market at Western Fair<br />

on Weekends!<br />

Photography by Phong Tran for Lavery Culinary Group.

12 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Restaurants<br />

An Upscale Pub with Great Food<br />

The Church Key Bistro-Pub Ups the Game in London<br />


Vanessa and Peter Willis have the<br />

energy of a couple of kids. Engaged<br />

in playful banter while sitting sideby-side,<br />

they’re quick-witted and<br />

easily moved to laughter as they describe how<br />

their dream of owning a restaurant became<br />

manifest in The Church Key Bistro-Pub, now<br />

a perennially popular downtown fixture. Both<br />

the labour and the love are evident.<br />

“The dream we had was an upscale pub<br />

with great food,” Vanessa says. “About 20<br />

years ago a revolution was happening in the<br />

United Kingdom, the birthplace of the pub,<br />

where establishments were moving in exactly<br />

that direction. It seemed that at that time<br />

the entire world started to take food a whole<br />

lot more seriously, and everyone started<br />

stepping up their game. The gastropub was<br />

born. We love traditional pubs, but we wanted<br />

something different. A casual environment<br />

where women could also feel comfortable and<br />

Owners Peter and Vanessa Willis, at top, established<br />

The Church Key Bistro-Pub in 2009. The courtyard patio,<br />

left, is beside the building, offering a relaxed urban vibe.<br />

Inside, diners enjoy a comfortable casual environment.

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 13<br />

in their element. I thought that we all deserved something<br />

a little bit better, and I was really passionate about it.”<br />

After working in the restaurant and bar industry for<br />

decades (combined), Vanessa and Peter spent almost two<br />

years in the hunt for a location of their own. On a lucky<br />

break, Peter’s realty network offered him a tip on a site<br />

that had just became available. “We were the first to see it<br />

and we knew within five minutes that it was perfect,” Peter<br />

says. “Right size, right location, by the theater, downtown,”<br />

adds Vanessa. “That was it.”<br />

But while the choice of location was easy, not every<br />

other decision fell into place so effortlessly. The name was<br />

proposed by Peter, but met with uncertainty from Vanessa.<br />

“A church key is a slang term for a bottle opener,” he<br />

explains. “But she wasn’t so sure that people would get it,<br />

so she polled everyone for months on whether they knew<br />

what it was.”<br />

“It was weeks,” Vanessa clarifies with a smile. “But I<br />

found that it was a 50/50 split and so I just decided — let’s<br />

roll with it.”<br />

Peter’s certainty that the clever name was perfect for<br />

the restaurant — situated between two of London’s largest<br />

churches, with local beer on tap — appears to have been a<br />

great instinct. But the memorable name is just one of the<br />

many magic elements that The Church Key has woven into<br />

its fibres.<br />

In a much more evident fashion is the establishment’s<br />

culture, which includes a strong foundation in customer<br />

service (you’ll always be promptly and warmly greeted), a<br />

strong camaraderie between front and back of house, and<br />

a playlist that’s “handcrafted” and curated by none other<br />

than Peter himself and has become a signature part of<br />

the welcoming atmosphere. Inside and out, The Church<br />

Key feels approachable, inclusive and timelessly classy all<br />

at once. “People always comment on the ambiance,” says<br />

Vanessa. “They say that it’s beautiful and comfortable,<br />

upscale but homey. And people love the music.”<br />

But of course, they love the food too. So much so, that<br />

it’s become difficult for the team to decide which dishes to<br />

swap out when changing the menu. As much as 80 percent<br />

of the menu is comprised of fan favourites.<br />

“You’ll hear about it loudly if you take one away,” says<br />

Peter. “The [Church Key] burger is untouchable and so is<br />

the corned beef and cabbage, which is made right from a<br />

brisket, as well as the smoked mushroom and parmesan<br />

dip. The warm duck confit salad has been on the menu<br />

since the beginning. The list goes on and on.”<br />

“We’re so grateful to Mike [Chef Michael Anglestad],”<br />

says Vanessa. “This [success] is as much his as it is ours.<br />

He was so integral in the creation [of The Church Key],<br />

the original menu and 90 percent of the dishes since we<br />

opened. They’re all his — all his talent, his ideas. And we’re<br />

lucky to have an amazing team of chefs working for us.”<br />

Pastry Chef Cliff Briden has also been a part of The<br />

Church Key since the start. The brunch, for which the menu<br />

changes each week, has become legendary under his charge.<br />

There’s something for every appetite:<br />

(from the top) Smoked Salmon Wrapped<br />

Scallops, Ploughman’s Plate, and Poached<br />

Salmon Roulade

14 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

Baked Mussels, Jerked Beef Skewers,<br />

and Duck Confit Salad (a permanent<br />

fixture on the menu at The Church Key<br />

Bistro-Pub)<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

“Our two co-sous chefs, the partners in crime — Bre<br />

Reynolds and Toby Turcott — need to be mentioned<br />

too,” states Vanessa. “They’re truly the nuts and bolts of<br />

the kitchen.”<br />

What this cohesive team is turning out from the kitchen<br />

is an intoxicating mix of comfort and exotism. Although<br />

the menu (which is changed twice a year) is rooted in<br />

traditional British pub cuisine, The Church Key has a<br />

reputation for its creative addition of game.<br />

“About seven years ago we took a research trip to<br />

Chicago to gather ideas, and noticed a lot of game meat.<br />

I’d always loved rabbit and was curious about venison,<br />

so I talked to Chef. We suspected that it might not go<br />

over well in the London market, but we put rabbit on<br />

and it sold out in a night,” Vanessa describes. “It was an<br />

overwhelming success.<br />

“Now we have an item on our dinner menu (not at<br />

lunch) called ‘Game of the Week’ that reads: ‘Every<br />

week our chef will create a unique dish that showcases<br />

a different variety of game meat. Ask your server about<br />

tonight’s special preparation.’ Our original plan was<br />

to run the same type of game all week, with different<br />

preparations, as the menu description implies. However,<br />

this item is so popular that we are often forced to switch<br />

the game variety several times a week. It’s a supply and<br />

demand thing.”<br />

“People call ahead to see what it’s going to be,” adds<br />

Peter. “We try to keep it flowing, ensure there’s variety.”<br />

Over the years The Church Key has served up a mix of<br />

game that ranges from the exotic, like kangaroo, ostrich,<br />

and wild boar, to more familiar such as buffalo, elk, bison,<br />

venison and duck.<br />

“We do source locally where we can,” Vanessa says of<br />

the game’s origin. “There’s a really good buffalo farm close<br />

to London, and we’ve also gotten local duck, but the best<br />

venison on the planet comes from New Zealand.”<br />

“In terms of other local sourcing though,” she adds,<br />

“We tend to do a lot of that for our Sunday brunch<br />

menu. Soiled Reputation, outside of Stratford, is just one<br />

example of many local suppliers.”<br />

Patrons of the Church Key also appreciate another<br />

locally sourced point of enjoyment: the beer. “We have a<br />

section on the menu that’s all London beers,” says Paul.<br />

“There are half a dozen or so breweries in town now.<br />

Everyone gets about three months on the tap and a<br />

presence in the fridge.”<br />

If you decide to come on down to The Church Key for<br />

a beer, a burger, or more, chances are you’ll be served<br />

by Jess Broadfoot during the day, or by Paul Markovich<br />

over the evening. The two have been at The Church for<br />

nine and seven years respectively. The longevity of their<br />

time there is not only a testament to their personal<br />

commitment to excellence in service, but also to the<br />

culture of the restaurant.<br />

“We’re a real family,” says Vanessa. “What has surprised<br />

me the most about owning The Church Key is the feedback

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

[from patrons]. The feeling of gratitude that I<br />

have, that’s constant.”<br />

“Owning [The Church Key] has exceeded<br />

our expectation,” Peter adds. “The crowd that<br />

comes here is just such a delight, and it makes<br />

everything so easy and worthwhile. People<br />

who are celebrating their milestones choose to<br />

come and do it here. I wanted that to happen,<br />

but it’s humbling. You hope for the best, but<br />

it’s gone so over the moon. It’s so much bigger<br />

than us.”<br />

The Church Key Bistro-Pub<br />

476 Richmond Street, London<br />

519-936-0960<br />

thechurchkey.ca<br />

tuesday 11:30 am–10pm<br />

wednesday & thursday 11:30 am–11 pm<br />

friday & saturday 11:30 am–12 am<br />

sunday 11:00 am–10 pm<br />

TANYA CHOPP is a local writer and communications<br />

professional.<br />






Quality,<br />

Consistency,<br />

and Value<br />

... in the roasting,<br />

in the delivery,<br />

and in the price.<br />

Merry Makers Fair<br />

— A Local, Handmade Event<br />

Sunday, <strong>November</strong> 11, 11am–4pm<br />

The Merry Makers Fair mission is simple: to<br />

inspire and encourage up-and-coming small,<br />

100% handmade businesses and connect<br />

them to conscious consumers in London. You'll<br />

find some of the best handmade shopping<br />

around, from Art, Home Decor, Jewelry,<br />

Clothing, Bath and Beauty products.<br />

Admission is free and underground parking is<br />

free upon validation (2 hours).<br />

Fibre Art Festival and Sale<br />

Friday, <strong>November</strong> 16, 10am–5pm<br />

Saturday, <strong>November</strong> 17, 8:30am–4:30pm<br />

Sunday, <strong>November</strong> 18, 11am–3pm<br />

Join us upstairs on the Mezzanine for demonstrations<br />

and displays of Weaving, Spinning, Rug<br />

Hooking, Lace making, Sashiko, Basketry, Felting<br />

& Penny Rugs. Enjoy 2 Hours FREE parking on<br />

Saturday and Sunday, upon validation.<br />

Christmas Merry Makers Fair<br />

Sunday, <strong>December</strong> 16, 11am–4pm<br />

Another 100% handmade event held<br />

in the heart of the Forest City. You'll<br />

find some of the best handmade<br />

shopping around, from Art, Home<br />

Decor, Jewelry, Clothing, Bath and<br />

Beauty products — everything<br />

you need to finish your<br />

Christmas list, and support<br />

local at the same time!<br />

For more event info visit coventmarket.com or our Facebook page<br />

TM<br />

Market Hours<br />

Monday to Saturday<br />

Mezzanine & Restaurant Hours Differ

16 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />


Road Trips<br />

Take Your Time<br />

Discovering the Pleasures of a Small Town in St. Marys<br />


While attending an event in St.<br />

Marys, Ontario, I decided that<br />

this beautiful town merited<br />

a longer and more leisurely<br />

visit. On a bright, sunny Saturday morning<br />

in October we drove northeast from London,<br />

with a list of places to visit. The short drive<br />

was enhanced by the masses of spectacular<br />

colour as the leaves were turning to their<br />

autumn colours of orange, crimson and gold.<br />

Our first stop was the farmers’ market,<br />

which is open from May until October. At<br />

Breadtopia, which has a wide selection of<br />

breads and pastries, we bought freshly baked<br />

ginger snaps, red onion and aged cheddar<br />

focaccia, and loaves of Stonetown and Thames<br />

Grain bread. We left the market laden as<br />

well with fresh-from-the-farm vegetables,<br />

delectable pastries from an Amish family’s<br />

booth, and some Middle Eastern treats<br />

from The Syrian Baker, known for baklava,<br />

sambosaks (samosas), falafels and hummus.<br />

Next stop was McCully’s Hill Farm Market.<br />

At the store entrance we were met by the<br />

aroma of freshly-baked apple and pumpkin<br />

pies. The huge variety of baked goods, maple<br />

syrup, fresh local meat and cheeses, homemade<br />

pickles, jams and preserves made for another<br />

shopping spree. After a tour of the barn, where<br />

we met the farm animals, we were treated to<br />

Discover the culinary and cultural diversity of the<br />

farmers’ market in St. Marys

18 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

a sampling of Fiege’s Gourmet Dressings and<br />

Sauces, which led to yet more shopping.<br />

One can’t visit St. Marys without checking out<br />

the local cheeses. Hans and Jolanda Weber, with<br />

Swiss cheese maker Ramon Eberle, have brought<br />

the art of cheese making to St. Marys by opening<br />

Stonetown Artisan Cheese. Our guide gave us an<br />

interesting and informative tour of the facility,<br />

and we enjoyed samples of some of Stonetown’s<br />

14 different curds and cheeses. It is no surprise<br />

that Stonetown is a two-time award winner at<br />

the Royal Agricultural Winter Fair.<br />

Agritourism is alive and well in St. Marys.<br />

Transvaal Farm Guest House is a two-storey<br />

house with a living room and fully equipped<br />

kitchen on the main floor and two bedrooms<br />

upstairs. The hosts, Cindy Taylor and Scott<br />

McLauchlan, make their guests feel at home. Eggs<br />

are there for the gathering, visits to the barn are<br />

encouraged, and the vegetable garden is there, in<br />

season, for guests. Transvaal Farm is also home to<br />

another artisanal cheese maker, C’est Bon Cheese<br />

Ltd. Cindy also operates Kitchen Smidgen, a small<br />

bakery on Water Street in St. Marys. There’s a<br />

patio where you can enjoy your treats in nice<br />

weather, overlooking the Thames.<br />

Troyer’s Spices on Queen St. is filled with over<br />

100 quality herbs and spices from around the<br />

world and is a utopia for chefs, bakers and home<br />

cooks. Over 55 herb and spice combinations are<br />

handcrafted in the store, and are displayed in<br />

large glass jars. You can bring your own spice<br />

containers or purchase items pre-packaged.<br />

Other quality goods available include Aunt<br />

Milly’s Soup Mixes, oils, vinegars, vanilla<br />

products, local honey, organic maple syrup, and<br />

Urban Hippie Granola.<br />

Of course we had to check out The Chocolate<br />

Factory to try the homemade truffles. It was a<br />

challenge to choose between truffles, smoothies,<br />

chocolates and the specialty Halloween creations.<br />

It was time for a coffee break, so a stop at Stonetown<br />

Coffee was in order. The coffee was great and the<br />

homemade pastries and cakes looked mouth-watering (but<br />

I was full from all the sampling earlier). The atmosphere<br />

was friendly and relaxed with people visiting amongst<br />

themselves while others relaxed in armchairs by the<br />

windows. Stonetown Coffee serves breakfast and lunch,<br />

and gluten-free items.<br />

After our check-in at the award-winning Westover<br />

Inn our hostess Kaitlynn gave us a tour of the historic<br />

property. Built in 1867 by the Hutton Brothers, The<br />

From meeting some of the animals at Transvaal Farm Guest house, to<br />

exploring the shops and cafés in town, you’ll find plenty to do while<br />

discovering the small town of St. Marys.

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

The elegant dining room at Westover Inn<br />

Manor sits on 19 landscaped acres, along<br />

with two other buildings that also provide<br />

accommodations. The property was bought<br />

by the Roman Catholic Church in the 1930’s<br />

and was operated as a seminary. The property<br />

was sold again 1985, and after two years of<br />

renovations the Westover Inn began receiving<br />

guests. The walls are lined with hospitality<br />

awards and it is apparently one of Christopher<br />

Plummer’s favorite inns.<br />

For dinner we headed off to the Wildstone<br />

Bar and Grill at Stone Willow Inn. The<br />

atmosphere was inviting and comfortable,<br />

<strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 19<br />

and the service friendly and professional. The<br />

chicken breast with lemon grass, mango and<br />

strawberry reduction, served with rice and<br />

vegetables and topped with toasted coconut,<br />

was cooked to flavourful perfection. The<br />

evening special was prime rib, cooked to order.<br />

We topped off the evening with specialty<br />

coffees and shared a piece of cheesecake with<br />

fresh fruit. Wildstone Bar and Grill offers a<br />

selection of regional wines and craft beers.<br />

Breakfast at the Westover was an early<br />

morning pleasure. My order of smoked<br />

salmon on a house-made mustard seed bagel<br />

with cream cheese and arugula was served<br />

with a fresh fruit salad. The perfect ending to<br />

a perfect weekend.<br />

For years our vacations were long trips;<br />

I wanted to see the world. Now I am loving<br />

the short weekend jaunts and day trips. It is<br />

amazing what you can find close to home.<br />

NANCY LOUCKS-McSLOY is a freelance writer who<br />

loves cooking and entertaining. Her work has appeared<br />

in Chicken Soup for the Soul, The Fur-Bearing Trout and<br />

Other True Tales of Canadian Life, McLean’s, Vitality and<br />

many other publications.<br />

FRESH gift ideas yule love<br />

Select from over 70 flavours of oils and balsamics.<br />

Sample the freshest oils from across the globe, paired with savoury<br />

white & dark balsamic vinegars from Modena, Italy.<br />

Personally bottled to suit your individual taste.<br />

Gift<br />

Cards<br />

Corporate<br />

Gifts<br />

Sample<br />

Packs<br />

Custom<br />

Gift Baskets<br />

Stocking<br />

Stuffers<br />

The<br />

Pristine<br />

live<br />

Est. 2012<br />

884 Adelaide Street N. | London | 519-433-4444<br />


Stratford is more than<br />

great theatre<br />

visitstratford.ca<br />

um<br />

A restaurant inspired by<br />

local ingredients.<br />

Run by workers.<br />

Owned by workers.<br />

Shared by the Community.<br />

Open Thursday through Monday<br />

Reservations Recommended<br />

64 Wellington St, Stratford<br />

redrabbitresto.com<br />

519.305.6464<br />

@redrabbitresto<br />

global tapas with local ingredients<br />

fresh cocktails<br />

Perfect for dinner, drinks and long conversations<br />

Thursday through Sunday from 5pm<br />

85 Downie St, Stratford<br />

(next to Avon Theatre)<br />

519.305.8585<br />

85Downie.com<br />


October-March<br />

Calendar, menus and<br />

reservations online<br />

StratfordChefsSchool<br />

@StratfordChef<br />


Hands-on classes for the<br />

dedicated home cook.<br />

Registration online<br />


“A fun place to shop<br />

for housewares and gifts!”<br />

Chalet Chic Serveware,<br />

a cozy feel for your holiday table.<br />

WATSON’S<br />


84 Ontario St. Stratford<br />

watsonsofstratford.com<br />

519-273-1790<br />



PARTY<br />

WITH US<br />

With custom menus from both kitchen<br />

and bar, we will work together to create<br />

the perfect atmosphere for anything<br />

from a casual cocktail party to a<br />

formal seated dinner.<br />

30 Ontario Street, Stratford, ON<br />

www.themillstone.ca<br />

themillstoneON<br />


22 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

Culinary Retail<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Gift<br />

Guide<br />


It really IS<br />

better to<br />

give than<br />

to receive<br />

—when you find<br />

the perfect gift that<br />

is warmly received,<br />

and you haven't felt<br />

caught up in shopping mall<br />

madness. To help you achieve this end, we've<br />

polled a fine range of independent retailers —<br />

the real shopping experts — for suggestions<br />

for the special people in your life. Whether<br />

you're looking for a big present for someone<br />

close to your heart, or a small gift for a<br />

hostess or your friend at work, here are some<br />

new as well as tried-and-true suggestions<br />

from the experts. Happy Shopping!<br />

The Pristine Olive has come up<br />

with many delicious ways to help<br />

customers stuff their Christmas<br />

stockings (with over 60 flavours<br />

of oils and balsamics). This year,<br />

owner Jamie Griffiths has created<br />

The Pristine Olive’s Travel<br />

Pack. Keep it “fresh” wherever you<br />

go with a zippered padded pouch,<br />

including two 60 ml bottles, and a<br />

stainless steel funnel. Fill them up<br />

with your favourite fresh olive oils<br />

and balsamic vinegars and hit the<br />

road! If you’re travelling, or just<br />

heading out for dinner, this pack is<br />

your perfect travel companion, or<br />

a delicious gift idea for everyone<br />

on your list. $14.95 The Pristine<br />

Olive • 884 Adelaide Street N.,<br />

London • www.thepristineolive.com<br />

• 519-433-4444<br />

A range of bath and beauty products might be<br />

expected at a lavender farm shop, but Steed &<br />

Company Lavender<br />

also offers a number<br />

of culinary items. In<br />

limited supply, the<br />

Steed & Company<br />

Lavender Farm<br />

Honey comes from<br />

their own bees at the<br />

farm. “It’s a delicate<br />

blend of nectar from our<br />

lavender and various local<br />

woodland flowers,” says<br />

proprietor Suzanne Steed.<br />

$8.25 Steed & Company<br />

Lavender • 47589 Sparta Line, RR#5 Aylmer •<br />

www.steedandcompany.com • 519-494-5525<br />

Gerhard Metzger’s Christmas-themed salamis<br />

are available at Metzger<br />

Meats in Hensall or at The<br />

Village Meat Shop at The<br />

Market at Western Fair.<br />

These festive salamis are<br />

perfect for gift baskets and<br />

stocking stuffers for the<br />

meat-lovers on your list.<br />

$7.99–$9.99 Metzger Meat<br />

Products • 180 Brock Ave,<br />

Hensall • www.metzgermeat.<br />

com • 519-262-3130<br />


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Few activities are as civilized and restorative<br />

as the taking of Cream Tea, a form of British<br />

afternoon tea (a light<br />

meal), consisting<br />

of tea enjoyed with<br />

a combination of<br />

scones, clotted cream,<br />

and jam. Introduce<br />

this tradition to<br />

someone you care<br />

about with Ilderton’s<br />

Village Teapot’s<br />

Cream Tea Gift<br />

Basket , including<br />

delicious tea, a jar<br />

of clotted cream, local jam, and fresh scones.<br />

$35.00, cello-wrapped with a ribbon.<br />

The Village Teapot • 13257 Ilderton Rd, Ilderton •<br />

www.thevillageteapot.ca • 519-298-8327<br />

These are heady days<br />

(pun intended) for craft<br />

beer lovers, with so<br />

many delicious ways to<br />

explore the world of beer<br />

from our local brewers.<br />

Amongst other seasonal<br />

options, Anderson Craft<br />

Ales is offering a limitededition<br />

<strong>2018</strong> Holiday<br />

Belgian in 750 mL<br />

bottles. Also available is<br />

a very limited amount<br />

of the 2017 Holiday<br />

Belgian, now aged for<br />

one year. The delectable<br />

flavours of raisin, plum and light spice in this<br />

beer are enhanced with aging, but it can also be<br />

enjoyed immediately after purchase. $10.00<br />

Anderson Craft Ales • 1030 Elias St, London • www.<br />

andersoncraftales.ca • 506-253-9440<br />

Stuff your stocking and stock your fridge<br />

with the gift of holiday cheer from<br />

Black Swan Brewing Co. Their wellbalanced<br />

Porter (ABV 5.3%, IBU 45)<br />

is heavy on dark malt with notes of<br />

chocolate and coffee. Or try their<br />

English Pale Ale (ABV 5%, IBU<br />

30), a traditional British-style<br />

beer made with English Noble<br />

hops and eight varieties of malt.<br />

Now available in 355 mL bottles!<br />

Black Swan Brewing • 144 Downie St,<br />

Stratford • www.blackswanbrewing.<br />

ca • 519-814-SWAN (7926)

24 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

Watson’s Chelsea Bazaar is a long-standing Stratford<br />

favourite, with two floors displaying an eclectic range of<br />

goods from around the world. You’ll find a fine selection<br />

of Emma Bridgewater Pottery from England, including<br />

festive mugs. There’s all<br />

manner of Christmas<br />

caroling, capering and<br />

cavorting in this snowy<br />

lantern-lit woodland<br />

scene . Dishwasher &<br />

microwave safe. Mugs<br />

each $39.00 Watson’s<br />

Chelsea Bazaar • 84<br />

Ontario Street, Stratford<br />

• watsonsofstratford.com<br />

• 519-273-1790<br />

Nestled among the rolling hills<br />

outside Woodstock, Gunn’s Hill<br />

Artisan Cheese produces an<br />

impressive and delicious variety<br />

of Swiss-influenced cheese<br />

with milk from the family dairy<br />

farm. Select from ready-made<br />

options, or create a customized<br />

gift basket to meet your specific<br />

needs and budget. Choose<br />

from a suitably-sized basket,<br />

gift box, or this heftier Gunn’s<br />

Hill Bushel Basket, that<br />

includes 200 g each of Gunn’s<br />

Hill Handeck Cheese, 5 Brothers<br />

Cheese, Flavoured Oxford’s<br />

Harvest, another Flavoured Oxford’s Harvest, and either<br />

Beau’s Abbey or Darkside of the Moo, along with a box<br />

of crackers from Barrie Brothers, creatively arranged and<br />

cello-wrapped in a wooden bushel basket. $50.00<br />

Gunn’s Hill Artisan Cheese • 445172 Gunns Hill Road,<br />

Woodstock • www.gunnshillcheese.ca • 519-424-4024<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Sarnia’s<br />

Kitchen Widgets,<br />

established in 1995 to<br />

provide high quality kitchen<br />

tools and houseware products<br />

from around the globe, is<br />

featuring a hot item for<br />

entertaining. “Don’t just host<br />

the party … join it!” Reinvented<br />

for the modern era, a Raclette<br />

Grill is the perfect addition<br />

to your next dinner party or<br />

social gathering. Designed for<br />

several people to cook at once,<br />

these indoor party grills offer<br />

unique tabletop entertainment,<br />

healthy preparation, and<br />

mouth-watering results. The<br />

cooking surface at the top offers<br />

room for grilling, and eight<br />

dishes underneath allow you<br />

to melt cheese or warm sauces,<br />

for unique combinations. Make<br />

traditional Swiss recipes, or<br />

create your own. $149.99<br />

Kitchen Widgets • 129 Mitton St S,<br />

Sarnia • www.kitchen-widgets.com<br />

• 519-332-0880<br />

Established in 1895, Bradshaws remains one of<br />

Canada’s great stores. The emphasis is on pieces that<br />

are design-driven “lifetime” purchases and unique and<br />

innovative products. Such as Seedlip — The World’s<br />

First Non-Alcoholic Spirit — which answers the<br />

question, “What to drink when you’re not drinking.”®<br />

Choose from three unique and complex blends: Spice<br />

94, Garden 108, and Grove 42 and create non-alcoholic<br />

cocktails for the designated driver in your life. Simply<br />

mix Seedlip with quality FeverTree tonic or create<br />

more sophisticated non-alcoholic cocktails by following<br />

incredible recipes on their website. $39.95 Bradshaws •<br />

129 Ontario St, Stratford • www.bradshawscanada.com • 519-271-6283

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 25<br />

Featherfields is an<br />

inspiring destination<br />

for distinctive garden<br />

décor and specialty<br />

gifts, like this<br />

beautiful stoneware<br />

Butterfly Puddler<br />

featuring an attractive<br />

thistle design. To<br />

attract butterflies, add<br />

sand and a teaspoon<br />

of water to its shallow<br />

well of recycled glass. Butterflies seek the moisture as<br />

well as the minerals left behind as the water evaporates.<br />

Handmade in Ontario from high-fired stoneware,<br />

it’s entirely weatherproof. Bring nature home for the<br />

holidays! $48.00 Featherfields • 1570 Hyde Park Rd #5,<br />

London • www.featherfields.com • 519-474-1165<br />

Whether you’re shopping for a craft<br />

beer lover or a fashionista, Cowbell<br />

Brewing Co. has your feet covered!<br />

Get the Fancy Feet Variety Pack<br />

featuring four fun styles — stripes,<br />

polka dots, argyle and Cowbells.<br />

Available at the Cowbell General Store<br />

in Blyth and online. Cowbell Brewing<br />

Co. • 40035 Blyth Rd, Blyth • www.<br />

cowbellbrewing.com • 519-523-4724<br />

Patrick’s Beans offers consistently high quality organic<br />

coffee blends. Ethically-sourced beans are roasted in<br />

small batches, then blended together to attain tailormade<br />

tastes and complexities not found in single varietal<br />

selections. A number of popular blends are available, with<br />

custom blends for the true aficionado. Check Patrick’s<br />

Facebook page for locations. From $15 for a 1 pound bag.<br />

Patrick’s Beans • www.patricksbeans.com • 226-378-5100<br />

National<br />

Houseware<br />

Retailer of<br />

the Year<br />

TUES–FRI 9–5 • SAT 9–3<br />

Knives • Baking • Cookware • Dinnerware • Widgets • Canadiana<br />

129 South Mitton St. Sarnia ON 519-332-0880 kitchen-widgets.com

26 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Does anything inspire<br />

warmer feelings than a<br />

freshly brewed cup of<br />

espresso? Named one of<br />

Southwestern Ontario’s great<br />

coffee shops, Locomotive<br />

Espresso has been gathering<br />

loyal patrons for three years<br />

in London, and they’d love to<br />

inspire reuse with KeepCup<br />

Brew Cups. Barista-designed<br />

Stonetown Artisan Cheese in St. Marys and BPS & BPS-free, they<br />

has established a strong reputation retail several different cups<br />

for its award-winning cheeses. Hans designed for use under any<br />

and Jolanda Weber immigrated from espresso machine. Baristas<br />

Switzerland in 1996 and now their brew straight into it. Partner<br />

sons look after the dairy farm while the KeepCup with a stainless<br />

they tend to the cheese. They also sell steel reusable straw with cleaning brush. Your<br />

quality cheese boards and a variety gift giving can reduce the consequences of wasteful<br />

of gift boxes and baskets. The Large convenience behaviors. Brew Cups $18-38, Straw $7.75<br />

Stonetown Gift Box, includes 170 Locomotive Espresso • 408 Pall Mall St, London • www.<br />

g each of their popular Baby Swiss, locomotiveespresso.com • 519-601-3896<br />

Homecoming, Wildwood, Grand<br />

Trunk, Muskoka Bliss, Farmstead Emmental, Game Changer, and<br />

Kalamata Kiss. $49.50 Stonetown Artisan Cheese • 5021 Perth Line 8, St.<br />

Marys • www.stonetowncheese.com • 519-229-6856<br />

Open Sundays<br />

Until Christmas!<br />

Destination for the food lover<br />

Featuring specialty foods,<br />

kitchenwares, tablewares,<br />

cooking classes and gift baskets.<br />

115 King St., London Ontario<br />

jillstable.ca 519-645-1335<br />

growers & creators of fine lavender products<br />


Steed & Company Lavender, part of a<br />

45-acre horse farm just outside of Sparta<br />


in our unique handcrafted lavender products<br />

ESCAPE<br />

in the wonderful scent and<br />

calming powers of lavender<br />

519-494-5525<br />

47589 Sparta Line, Sparta<br />

buds@steedandcompany.com<br />

Open Wed–Sat 10-5; Sun 12–4<br />

Mother’s Day to Dec. 19<br />

PLUS June–Labour Day: Tues 10-5<br />

www.steedandcompany.com<br />

Join us for our<br />

Christmas<br />

Open House<br />

<strong>November</strong><br />

24 & 25

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Jill’s Table offers a wide variety of specialty food items,<br />

kitchen gadgets, cookware, bakeware and fabulous<br />

cooking classes. Jill is featuring La Fabrick Whiskey<br />

Barrel-aged Maple Syrup this season. Smoky<br />

and sweet like s’mores on the campfire, this stellar<br />

syrup is produced by the Masse family in the<br />

Eastern Townships of Quebec. Category 1 amber<br />

maple syrup is aged in Rye whiskey barrels for 4–6<br />

months, creating the distinctive flavour, with hints<br />

of brown sugar, vanilla and a touch of baking spice.<br />

This would make a terrific hostess or corporate gift<br />

for the holiday season. $29.99 Jill’s Table • 115 King<br />

Street, London • jillstable.ca • 519-645-1335<br />

<strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 27<br />

A gift certificate from a<br />

unique store or a fabulous local<br />

restaurant can be a reflection<br />

of your good taste and the<br />

interests of the recipient.<br />

They are available from most<br />

businesses, in denominations<br />

that fit your budget.<br />

$100 Value<br />

Considerate guests are always looking for appropriate hostess<br />

gifts . Some people bring wine. But why not bring a Homemade<br />

Lasagna from Marshall’s Pasta Mill? Marshall’s is a family-owned<br />

and operated restaurant/catering/retail store of homemade<br />

Italian food. In addition to outstanding lasagna<br />

that serves eight (meat, roasted vegetable<br />

or seafood), Jodie and Blake Marshall offer<br />

a variety of fresh pastas, sauces, Portuguese<br />

breads, prepared meals, soups and meatballs.<br />

Gift Certificates are also available. From 36.00<br />

Marshall’s Pasta Mill • 580 Adelaide St N, London •<br />

www.marshallspastacatering.ca • 519-672-7827<br />

Spice Up the Holidays!<br />

Christmas Open House<br />

Nov. 14 (Port)<br />

Nov. 15 (Wortley)<br />

Limited Edition<br />

Emile Henry<br />

UP TO<br />

50% OFF<br />

Holiday Spice Collections<br />

In Store Specials & More!<br />

Give the Gift of Nature!<br />

<strong>2018</strong><br />

Wild Bird Store<br />

of the Year<br />

peppertreespice.com<br />

1-141 Wortley Rd., London 519-601-6610<br />

223 Colborne St., Port Stanley 519-782-7800<br />

The Market at Western Fair, 900 King St. London<br />

Birdfeeding Experts • All non-GMO Birdseed<br />

Garden Gifts • Holiday Décor<br />


28 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Wine<br />

The Gift of Wine<br />

Some Suggestions for This Holiday Season<br />


Giving a bottle of wine as a gift over<br />

the holiday season is always a<br />

great way to leave an impression,<br />

but sometimes selecting the right<br />

wine is not easy. You want the recipient to<br />

appreciate and enjoy your thoughtful offering,<br />

so here are some tips to help you choose.<br />

Knowing what kind of wine recipients<br />

might like can be helpful, but often you may<br />

not know if they prefer red or white wine or<br />

sweeter or dryer styles. If you know what they<br />

favour, great. If not, don’t worry too much<br />

about it; wine is a gift that can always be<br />

(shhhhh) regifted.<br />

A general rule of etiquette to keep in mind<br />

when bringing wine as a host or hostess gift<br />

is that there is no expectation that the bottle<br />

be opened that evening. Therefore if you have<br />

selected a white wine you do not need to chill<br />

it before bringing it. On the other hand, if you<br />

have been invited for a dinner and are asked<br />

to bring a bottle of wine it is expected that the<br />

wine you bring will be opened, so chilling the<br />

white wine is appropriate.<br />

Around the holidays many Ontario wineries<br />

offer gift baskets that they have assembled<br />

with their wines and other local Ontario<br />

products. The baskets are often impressive<br />

and while they can often be a little pricey they<br />

can save you time should you want to give<br />

such a gift.<br />

For those who would like to include a bottle<br />

in their own gift baskets, or are looking for a<br />

few Ontario wines that will make sensational<br />

gifts, here are some suggestions.<br />

Westcott Estate Pinot Noir 2015<br />

(Vintages #427500, $29.95)<br />

Ontario’s cool climate is perfect<br />

for top notch elegant pinot noir.<br />

Westcott’s vineyards are located on<br />

south-facing slopes in Niagara’s<br />

Vinemount Ridge appellation<br />

resulting in longer sun exposure<br />

and riper fruit at harvest. This<br />

wine is a fine example of a<br />

medium-bodied, dry red wine with<br />

red berry fruits, anise, mushroom,<br />

earthy and smoky notes.

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 29<br />

Taste the elements.<br />

1709 Front Road, St. Williams, Norfolk County, ON<br />

Tastings, Tours & Events<br />

burningkilnwinery.ca 519.586.9858<br />


eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Alton Farms<br />


HO HO HO<br />

Merlot<br />

POUR<br />

THE<br />




SARNIA<br />

LAKE<br />

HURON<br />

7<br />

21<br />

Grand<br />

Bend<br />

Forest<br />

Aberarder Line<br />

21<br />

402<br />

London<br />

77 km<br />

5547 Aberarder Line, Plympton-Wyoming<br />

519-899-2479 • altonfarmsestatewinery.com<br />

Weather Rock Cabernet Franc<br />

(LCBO #558809, $14.10) While some<br />

of the 2016 vintage may still be<br />

found on the shelf at the LCBO, the<br />

Ontario cabernet franc was flying<br />

out of the store so quickly the<br />

2017 vintage was released earlier<br />

than expected to meet demand.<br />

It’s a medium-bodied wine, dry<br />

and loaded with red and black<br />

berry fruits. The 2017 vintage has a<br />

little more tannins, perfect to pair<br />

with rare and medium<br />

rare steaks. Weather<br />

Rock is a virtual winery<br />

produced at Harrow’s Oxley<br />

Estate Winery and wines under<br />

the Weather Rock label are only<br />

available at the LCBO.<br />

Colchester Ridge Estate<br />

Winery “CREW” Merlot 2016<br />

(VINTAGES #310532, $17.95)<br />

Merlot has traditionally been<br />

used as a blending grape in<br />

Bordeaux but in many new world

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

wine regions it is often bottled as a single<br />

varietal. CREW’s merlot is its best offering to<br />

date of this grape, and is offered at an insanely<br />

cheap price point that will stand up to many<br />

$40 - $60 California merlots. This is a fullbodied,<br />

dry, complex velvety wine with fruit<br />

forward blackberry, black plum, black cherry<br />

notes, with cedar and tobacco characteristics.<br />

Exceptional value, buy this one while you can!<br />

Mastronardi Estate Winery Syrah 2016<br />

(VINTAGES #581223, $24.95)<br />

Syrah, also known as shiraz, is made<br />

from the same grape and can be<br />

very different in style depending<br />

on where it is grown. Shiraz is<br />

commonly identified as the style<br />

of wine produced in Australia,<br />

ripe and full-bodied, while syrah<br />

is associated with a lighter and<br />

leaner red wine. Mastronardi’s<br />

syrah is medium plus in body,<br />

dry, black fruit and a hint of<br />

cracked black pepper. Give this<br />

wine as a gift to someone who<br />

enjoys a glass of wine around the<br />

fireplace on one of Ontario’s cold<br />

winter nights.<br />

Casa-Dea Reserve Chardonnay 2015<br />

(VINTAGES #546812, $26.95) Some<br />

of the best Ontario chardonnays I<br />

have tasted were from Prince Edward<br />

County. The limestone-rich soil<br />

found in many of the vineyards<br />

in this region offer ideal varietal<br />

expression. Medium body, dry,<br />

with ripe green apple and pear<br />

fruit notes balanced with light<br />

vanilla and butterscotch nuances<br />

from time spent in French oak<br />

barrels. Chardonnay leads the<br />

way in production as Ontario<br />

VQA’s single varietal wine.<br />

GARY KILLOPS is a CAPS Certified Sommelier who<br />

loves to talk, taste, and write about wine. He shares his<br />

tasting notes on EssexWineReview.com<br />

Time to plan your next<br />

Road Trip to Lambton County!<br />

Our new drink trail allows you to sip<br />

and savour in any order you prefer.<br />

Refined Fool<br />

Twin Pines Orchards<br />

& Cider House<br />

Alton Farms Estate Winery<br />

Widder Station Golf,<br />

Grill & Tap House<br />

Refined Fool (2 locations)<br />

Stonepicker Brewing Co.<br />

Widder Station Golf, Grill & Tap House<br />

Munro Honey & Meadery<br />

Twin Pines Orchards & Cider House<br />

Alton Farms Estate Winery<br />

Dark Horse Estate Winery<br />

Smackwater Tours –Transportation Service<br />

Download the trail map at<br />

www.ontbluecoast.com<br />

1 800 265 0316

32 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

Beer<br />

Cold, and Dark<br />

Malty Darker Beers, for Winter<br />


eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Goodbye light lagers. Adios radlers<br />

and beers that taste like ice<br />

cream. So long, fruit beers. As the<br />

thermometer drops and the sun goes<br />

down earlier, it’s time to restock the beer fridge<br />

with malty, darker beers to suit the season.<br />

Here are 12 stellar selections from<br />

Southwestern Ontario brewers. Most will<br />

require a personal visit to purchase at the<br />

brewery’s in-house beer store. More and<br />

more, craft breweries are also launching<br />

online stores offering beer delivered to your door.<br />

No Marzen for Eror by Innocente<br />

Brewing Company, Waterloo. Misspelling<br />

“error” is no mistake and neither is this<br />

Oktoberfest lager. The marzen style of beer<br />

originated in Bavaria and is<br />

traditionally associated<br />

with the change of<br />

seasons. Innocente’s<br />

version is copper in<br />

colour, not as dark as<br />

one might expect, and<br />

has a hint of citrus hop<br />

flavour.<br />

Nighthawk Weizenbock by<br />

Toboggan Brewing, London. More<br />

inspiration from the beers of<br />

Bavaria, this time from the<br />

fermenters at London’s<br />

popular Richmond<br />

Row craft brewery.<br />

Weizenbocks, dubbed<br />

by some as winter wheat<br />

beers, have been brewed<br />

since the early 1900s and<br />

that the style isn’t more widely known (and<br />

brewed) is mysterious. The Toboggan take is<br />

a deep red with aromas of banana and clove.<br />



27 Adelaide st. south . Chatham Ont<br />


sonsofkent.com 519-354-BEER (2337)<br />

now available at the LCBO!

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Nighthawk is a wonderful fall beer choice best<br />

enjoyed with patience, from a tulip glass. It’s a<br />

low 14 IBU but a strong 8 per cent alcohol.<br />

Black Coal Stout by Railway City<br />

Brewing, St. Thomas. A seriously good stout<br />

from the 10-year-old St. Thomas<br />

brewery best known for Dead<br />

Elephant IPA, Black Coal<br />

almost lives up to its name in<br />

terms of colour — I’d call it<br />

dark brown. Rich in coffee and<br />

dark chocolate aromas. And<br />

is that a hint of rye bread?<br />

Named for St. Thomas’ railway<br />

heritage, Black Coal is a coldweather<br />

reward for a day’s<br />

work well done.<br />

Ghost Cow by Wellington Brewery,<br />

Guelph. Spicy<br />

and dark, anyone?<br />

Ghost Cow is a milk<br />

stout brewed with<br />

ghost, habanero,<br />

and Scotch bonnet<br />

<strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 33<br />

peppers as well as cocoa. It clocks in at a<br />

pleasant 7.1 per cent alcohol.<br />

McNall’s Mission by Cowbell<br />

Brewing, Blyth. One of a series of beers<br />

named for the colourful<br />

characters of Blyth, this is a<br />

honey brown named in honour<br />

of George McNall, who served<br />

in both the First and Second<br />

World Wars. One hundred<br />

years ago McNall received<br />

the Military Medal for his<br />

devotion to duty as a scout.<br />

Now available at the LCBO,<br />

McNall’s Mission incorporates<br />

sweet, savoury brown malts<br />

with local honey. Cowbell has<br />

been brewing it since 2017 and selling it on<br />

site and at craft-friendly pubs. It’s entry<br />

onto LCBO shelves is certain to accelerate its<br />

popularity while honouring a local veteran.<br />

Hans and Franz by Forked River,<br />

London. A German pilsner, Hans and Franz<br />

strikes a nice balance that works well with<br />

#ItsWhatWeDrink<br />


144 DOWNIE ST, STRATFORD, ON 519 • 814 • 7926<br />


34 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

fare such as bratwurst. It’s not<br />

at the LCBO, Beer Store, or<br />

grocery stores so you’ll have<br />

to show your love by visiting<br />

the brewery store, or flaunt<br />

your tech abilities by ordering<br />

online.<br />

Spice Up Your Life by<br />

Storm Stayed Brewing,<br />

London.<br />

Spice Up<br />

Your Life is a pumpkin<br />

spice latte milk stout.<br />

Sure, that flavour<br />

combination will cause<br />

beer purists to cringe,<br />

but for those who always<br />

wanted to combine their favourite cold and<br />

hot drink flavours, this could be it. Besides,<br />

what good is a beer fridge in the fall without<br />

at least one pumpkin beer?<br />

Autumn by Anderson Craft Ales,<br />

London. The artists of Anderson make it easy<br />

to guide us through the beer seasons with<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

releases named for each.<br />

Autumn is a marzen,<br />

available in 355 mL cans<br />

at the brewery’s bottle<br />

shop. Sure, we like<br />

Summer better, but do<br />

you blame us?<br />

The Heavy<br />

Horse by<br />

Shakespeare<br />

Brewing. A<br />

farmhouse ale,<br />

Heavy Horse gets its<br />

flavour from yeast cultivated from an apple<br />

orchard and honey from Nith<br />

Valley Apiaries in New Hamburg.<br />

It’s 7 per cent alcohol and 25 IBU.<br />

A fine reward for a hard day’s<br />

work on the farm — or at the<br />

office.<br />

Bronzeback Ale by Bayside<br />

Brewing, Erieau. There are lots<br />

of great reasons to daytrip to this<br />

Lake Erie resort town south of<br />

’til ‘til the COWBELLs s come home!<br />

Now available for home for delivery! home VisitCOWBELLBREWING.COM<br />

delivery!<br />

and shop shop<br />

online.<br />


1-844-523-4724 WWW.COWBELLBREWING.

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Chatham. High on the list is a visit to Bayside<br />

Brewing, where the beer of choice on a chilly<br />

day is Bronzeback Ale. Named as a tribute<br />

to local fishing — bronzeback is also known<br />

as smallmouth bass — this beer is copper in<br />

colour with flavours of burnt caramel and<br />

toffee. It’s been a Bayside mainstay since 2013.<br />

Natterjack Toad by Natterjack<br />

Brewing, West Lorne. Natterjack opened<br />

in September as a<br />

tribute to young<br />

brewer Matt<br />

Soos. His family<br />

is featuring the<br />

Belgian blonde<br />

recipe Matt<br />

developed as a student at Niagara College. The<br />

taste twist is that it includes pistachios. It’s<br />

available only at the brewery store.<br />

<strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 35<br />

and widely available, Waterloo<br />

Dark pairs nicely with wild<br />

game. Brewed with Canadian<br />

malted barley and imported<br />

hops, Waterloo Dark tastes<br />

lighter than you’d expect from<br />

the colour.<br />


a Southwestern Ontario craft<br />

beer explorer who spends too<br />

much time at the LCBO and craft<br />

breweries.<br />

Waterloo Dark by Waterloo Brewing,<br />

Waterloo. If you’re a duck, deer or moose<br />

hunter, or are lucky enough to know someone<br />

who is, this is the dark lager to bring to the<br />

fall table. One of Waterloo’s four core brands

36 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

London<br />

London’s Local Flavour: Volume 7 will launch any<br />

day now. This highly anticipated culinary guide<br />

fills a strong purpose in both drawing tourists<br />

and providing Londoners with more information<br />

about the exciting new options in our diverse<br />

restaurant scene. New this year<br />

is the inclusion of some highly<br />

recommended neighbouring<br />

restaurants and inns, as well<br />

as a more developed craft beer<br />

section. The guide will be widely<br />

available at key tourist information<br />

centres, including Ontario Travel<br />

Centres, Tourism London and the<br />

London International Airport, at<br />

participating businesses and the<br />

London Public Library system, and<br />

at local farmers’ markets. This is<br />

a project undertaken by <strong>Eatdrink</strong><br />

magazine, and we’re excited to<br />

share our efforts at celebrating<br />

“London’s local flavour.” Cheers!<br />

The BUZZ<br />

Culinary Community Notes<br />

LONDON’S<br />

Local Flavour<br />

VOLUME 7<br />

Restaurants • Specialty Shops & Services<br />

Craft Beer & Wine • Farmers’ Markets<br />

localflavour.ca<br />

land provides fresh seasonal ingredients for use<br />

in the labs, and produce is sold at the on-campus<br />

farmer’s market every other week.<br />

Chef’s Table at the new downtown campus of<br />

Fanshawe College is both a<br />

restaurant and a café. Menus<br />

NEW!<br />

More to Explore!<br />

Recommended<br />

Culinary<br />

Neighbours<br />

showcase local suppliers, farmers<br />

and seasonal vegetables, with<br />

staff creating many of their own<br />

items, including cured meats<br />

and preserves. The Chef’s Table<br />

gives students hands-on training<br />

and an opportunity to gain<br />

practical experience. There is<br />

an open kitchen, wood, exposed<br />

brick and marble countertops.<br />

The ambiance is relaxed and<br />

accessible. Restaurant is open<br />

weekdays. Lunch: 11 am – 2 pm/<br />

Dinner: 5 pm – 8 pm. 130 Dundas<br />

Street, 519-452-4433.<br />

The one-of-a-kind Artisanal<br />

Culinary Arts graduate program at Fanshawe<br />

College’s School of Tourism, Hospitality and<br />

Culinary Arts teaches techniques in gardening,<br />

fermenting, preserving, butchering, curing,<br />

cheese making, and bread baking. The fast-track<br />

curriculum is based on a modified schedule that<br />

runs from May to <strong>December</strong>. The spring intake<br />

allows students to work in the on-campus fruit and<br />

vegetable garden throughout the semester. This<br />

The menu at TG’s Addis Ababa<br />

Restaurant features an outstanding offering<br />

of elaborately spiced and perfectly prepared<br />

Ethiopian specialties from the East African<br />

culinary canon. Be sure to put TG’s Ethiopian<br />

breakfast on your list for a great culinary<br />

adventure on Sundays. For an amazing tasting<br />

experience order tapas-style with dishes<br />

like Inkulal Ferfer (scrambled eggs, onion,<br />

tomatoes and jalapeno), Chechebsa (Kita Ferfer<br />

willie’s café<br />

630 Dundas Street, Old East Village.<br />


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

with Ethiopian spices and sour cream); Genfo<br />

(ground cooked wheat served with sour cream,<br />

berbere and seasoned butter) and Yetsom Ferfer<br />

(strips of injera with vegetarian sauce). 465<br />

Dundas Street (at Maitland), 519-433-4222,<br />

tgsaddisababarestaurant.com<br />

Matt Reijnen, has opened Pizzeria Madre in the<br />

space previously occupied by Manito’s Rotisserie<br />

at 111 Wellington Street. The menu is spiked with<br />

seasonal ingredients. The green bean salad with<br />

roasted corn, arugula, pecorino and lemon-chile<br />

dressing was a sensational seasonal dish. There are<br />

10 pizzas on the ever-changing menu: “Patata” with<br />

shaved potato, Fontina, cream, rosemary, chile and<br />

Parmigiano is a knock-out. Warm zeppole for dessert<br />

with lemon curd cream and a deconstructed tiramisu<br />

show the kitchen’s strengths. This licensed, casual<br />

contemporary resto is sophisticated and nicely<br />

appointed and the service is genuinely warm and<br />

intelligent. pizzeriamadre.wixsite.com/book<br />

Wayne DeGroot and Jocelyn Morwood DeGroot<br />

have made zen’Za Pizzeria a popular destination for<br />

vegan, vegetarian and gluten-free thin-crust pizzas.<br />

Their recently added z’Energy Day Café offers<br />

Your Trusted Holiday Caterer<br />

Catering for Special Events,<br />

Company & Family Christmas<br />

Parties, Schools & Sports Teams<br />

We deliver. Full Service Available.<br />

Fresh Homemade Pasta &<br />

Sauces, Meatballs, Lasagnas<br />

and so much more!<br />

580 Adelaide St N, London<br />

519-672-7827<br />

MON–FRI 9:30am–7pm<br />

SATURDAY 9:30am–5pm<br />

SUNDAY 11am–5pm<br />

Homemade<br />

Italian Food<br />


Will Love!<br />

Gift<br />

Certificates<br />

Full menu available at marshallspastacatering.ca<br />

NOW OPEN!<br />

Veta Wine and Pasta Bar<br />

745 Fanshawe Park Road (formerly Blu Duby)<br />


Book your Office Holiday Parties now!<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

barista-made coffee and teas, and features several<br />

types of dairy alternatives including cashew, oat,<br />

coconut, ripple pea protein, and rice. Barista James<br />

Timothy whips up a menu of z’Avocado Toasts as<br />

well. The café is open Wednesday to Saturday, 9am<br />

to 3pm. The pizzeria is open from 5pm. Closed<br />

Monday and Tuesday. 71 King St. zenzapizzeria.ca<br />

Locally Sourced Ingredients<br />

Authentic Italian Cuisine<br />

Small-Batch Region-Specific<br />

Organic Italian Wines<br />

Local Craft Beers<br />

Take Out & Gift Certificates Available<br />

Open for Lunch and Dinner<br />

Tuesday through Saturday<br />

www.fatolive.ca<br />

2135 Dorchester Rd., Dorchester<br />

519-268-0001<br />

E&D_Locomotive<strong>2018</strong>_ART.pdf 1 <strong>2018</strong>-11-05 10:12 PM<br />

RIO Brazilian Steakhouse + Supper Club, opening<br />

at 45 King Street in the heart of downtown will<br />

feature “Churrasco,” the authentic and unique<br />

Brazilian barbeque. Jeff Moczulski brings<br />

two decades of successful leadership in both<br />

independents and national brands, from the Best<br />

Western Lamplighter Inn to the John Labatt Centre<br />

to Buffalo Wild Wings. He is joined by a hand-picked<br />

team from the local hospitality industry for his first<br />

venture as restaurant owner and operator.<br />

Shoeless Joe’s is also coming to downtown London,<br />

on King Street across from Budweiser Gardens.<br />

Certified tea sommelier and nutritionist, Michelle<br />

Pierce Hamilton of beTeas/The Tea Lounge is<br />

sponsoring London’s first Tea & Kombucha Fest<br />

in March 2019. The Tea Guild of Canada is a<br />

co-sponsor, providing its expertise, resources,<br />

and volunteers. The organizing board consists<br />

of students and graduates of tea sommelier<br />

training in London. The planning and execution is<br />

being run with an independent Project Manager<br />

professional at the helm. This structure is based<br />

on best practice of the successful Toronto Tea<br />

Festival. Locally, the board felt strongly that it<br />

made good sense to include Kombucha as a thriving<br />

tea-related beverage as a co-focus of this event.<br />

The spirit of this venture is to grow tea culture by<br />

showcasing London and areas’ independent tea and<br />

Kombucha businesses. There will be a strong lineup<br />

of engaging workshops and speakers to provide<br />

valuable content to all the attendees. The venue<br />

will be the London Public Library Central Branch<br />

including Wolf Performance Hall.<br />

Chef Angie Murphy and sommelier Pete Annson<br />

are anticipating that Grace, located at the<br />

southwest corner of Clarence and Dundas Streets,<br />

will be operational by <strong>December</strong> 1. They promise<br />

food made with artistry and an uncompromising<br />

dedication to excellence. This is modern Canadian<br />

cuisine, drawing on classic French traditions and<br />

techniques, infused with global influences and local<br />

flavours. A minimalist backdrop will allow for the<br />

drama of the dish to be the focus. The restaurant<br />

space is being co-created with Design House.

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Restaurateur Joe Duby and chef Cynthia Beaudoin<br />

of gNosh have established an appreciative clientele<br />

by creating a welcoming ambience where patrons<br />

can enjoy a glass of wine or a signature cocktail<br />

at the bar, a couple of small plates or a full<br />

Service Animals<br />

Most people don’t know or think about the<br />

role or function that service dogs play for<br />

many Canadians. In regards to restaurants<br />

and the admission of service dogs, there are<br />

laws and guidelines that must be followed.<br />

We have all heard stories about service dogs<br />

being denied entry to a restaurant, so let’s<br />

clarify the laws and guidelines.<br />

A seeing-eye dog guide assists a person<br />

with limited sight while a service dog<br />

encompasses all animals that have been<br />

trained to assist people with a broader range<br />

of disabilities, such as the onset of seizures,<br />

and provide their owner with a wider access<br />

to society. A service animal is not a pet.<br />

While businesses can say “no pets allowed,”<br />

they can’t deny you service because of your<br />

animal.<br />

519-565-2576<br />

LakeHouseofBayfield.com<br />

BISTRO<br />


SUITES<br />

SPA<br />

Laws forbid service animals from certain<br />

premises, typically where food is processed,<br />

manufactured, or sold. By law, guide dogs<br />

are allowed into establishments where food<br />

is served or sold. Service dogs typically wear<br />

some sort of vest or harness and are easily<br />

identifiable as such, but many businesses<br />

reserve the right to ask for some proof.<br />

Seeing-eye dog guides are issued with photo<br />

ID of both the owner and dog.<br />

If a business turns someone away unjustly,<br />

the offended person can file a human<br />

rights complaint with the Ontario Human<br />

Rights Commission, but could start at the<br />

Canadian Human Rights Commission for<br />

guidance (www.chrc-ccdp.gc.ca/eng/make-acomplaint).<br />

If relevant, they can also pursue<br />

charges under the Blind Person’s Right Act.<br />

— Bryan Lavery<br />

519-565-2576<br />


203,<br />

851<br />

Discover Heather's<br />

Incomparable Journeys<br />

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Group Tours for 2019<br />

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21 days, Late August 2019<br />

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sheer grandeur of Russia’s imperial city<br />

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14 days, September 2019<br />

10-day Serengeti & Tarangire National Parks<br />

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www.heathersincomparablejourneys.ca<br />

For any and all of your travel needs<br />

519-473-8591 — Heather Wilkinson<br />

Regional Office: 31 Nottinghill Gate, Suite 203, Oakville<br />

TICO#50013851<br />

Delighted to welcome you late fall <strong>2018</strong><br />

reserve@gracelondon.ca<br />

@gracerestaurantlondon<br />

@graceLDNONT<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

dining experience, in a casual yet stylish setting<br />

(the former Blu Duby premises). gNosh is an<br />

unpretentious restaurant celebrating honest food<br />

and wine, with a sophisticated atmosphere and<br />

friendly service. gnoshdining.com<br />

Just like the original Quynh Nhi Restaurant on<br />

Wharncliffe Road, Tamarine by Quynh Nhi on<br />

Dundas at Talbot Street is well-known for take-out.<br />

When you’re craving a delicious blend of Viet-Thai<br />

flavours, you can satisfy your taste buds in the<br />

comfort of your home or office. tamarine.ca<br />

SO INVITING, the Chinese bakery and dumpling<br />

shop across from the Market at Western Fair, more<br />

than lives up to its name. Friendly owners Yamei<br />

Min and Youjin Wang offer a variety of delicious<br />

hand-made dumplings that include beef, chicken,<br />

pork and vegetable. They’ve added hot & sour<br />

soup, mushroom fried vermicelli (rice noodles) and<br />

seaweed salad to the repertoire. The minimalist<br />

shop has 4 tiny seats but is mainly take-away. 876<br />

Dundas Street East, 226-781-0788<br />

Dino and Carla Dassie recently opened Fat Olive<br />

in Dorchester. Dino was born into an Italian<br />

family and learned to cook authentic Italian food<br />

from his mother and his aunts, inheriting their<br />

passion for using fresh ingredients. He knew at a<br />

young age that he wanted to open his own Italian<br />

restaurant. After high school, he went to Conestoga<br />

College where he obtained his diploma in Business<br />

Administration and Marketing. After college,<br />

Dino put his passion on hold and began driving a<br />

truck. Last year Dino and his wife Carla went to<br />

Goodfella’s Pizza School in Staten Island, New York,<br />

one of the World’s most comprehensive, hands-on<br />

pizza schools. They were taught how to make<br />

wood-fired pizzas from the world’s pizza champions<br />

and about owning and operating a restaurant. You<br />

will often see Carla at the restaurant talking with<br />

customers and entertaining people. They both<br />

know all about the joys of eating great tasting food.<br />

Be sure to make a reservation. fatolive.ca<br />

The Market at Western Fair District is now open on<br />

both Saturday (8 am–3 pm) and Sunday (11 am–3<br />

pm) each week. westernfairdistrict.com/market<br />

First-St. Andrew’s United Church at 350 Queens<br />

Avenue (at Waterloo) will be continuing its tradition<br />

of providing great music this autumn. The second<br />

Woodfield Jazz concert (in a series of four) will<br />

take place on <strong>November</strong> 23 with the Ariel Kasler<br />

Quartet. A cash bar will be available. Doors open<br />

at 7 pm with entertainment at 8 pm. And starting

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

the following week there will be the first of three<br />

Friday Advent Noon Recitals (<strong>November</strong> 30 - King’s<br />

University College Chamber Choir, Janet Loo,<br />

Director, <strong>December</strong> 7 - Sonja Gustafson, Soprano<br />

and Kathleen Gahagan, Harp, <strong>December</strong> 14 -<br />

Laudamus Bells, Terry Head, Director).Lunch will<br />

be available for $8. music@fsaunited.com<br />

Celebrate New Year’s Eve at the Idlewyld Inn and<br />

Spa! There are two options for your consideration:<br />

dinner only (from 5:30 to 7:30 p.m.) or dinner and<br />

show (dinner at 8:30/show at 10:30 p.m.) with<br />

Sonya Gustafson, pianist Charlie Rallo and bassist<br />

Larry Ernwein. idlewyldinn.com<br />

Now Accepting<br />

Holiday Party<br />

Bookings!<br />

The heart of<br />

Downtown<br />

Strathroy<br />

At London Training Centre, Sommelier Jamie<br />

West and Chef Steve James are your hosts for an<br />

evening of wine, food and flavours. Each tasting<br />

in the “Uncorked” series has been carefully<br />

selected, focusing on unique grape varietals and<br />

the fascinating stories of each winery. Chef Steve<br />

James has created dishes to reflect the particular<br />

wine and region. Each evening will offer informative<br />

talks of the wines and food, all within a casual<br />

and fun environment. These sessions provide a<br />

unique opportunity to spend with friends and<br />

colleagues who love great wine and exceptional<br />

food. Upcoming in the series: Canada (<strong>November</strong><br />

8), Champagne (<strong>December</strong> 6), Mediterranean (tba).<br />

Each session is limited to 10 guests seated at the<br />

chef’s table. londontraining.on.ca<br />

Join the folks at Covent Garden Market on Sunday,<br />

<strong>December</strong> 16 for the Christmas Merry Makers Fair, a<br />

100% handmade event held in the heart of the Forest<br />

City. Here you’ll find some of the best handmade<br />

shopping around, including art, home decor, jewelry,<br />

clothing, bath and beauty products – everything you<br />

need to finish your Christmas list and support local<br />

at the same time. coventmarket.com<br />

New to Covent Garden Market is Mark’s Fine Meats<br />

from Chef Mark Kitching of Waldo’s On King Bistro<br />

& Wine Bar. Mark will continue to offer Fieldgate<br />

Organics (the previous proprietors at the location,<br />

who will remain a primary supplier) products and<br />

other organics as well as local and sustainable<br />

meats. “All of the products are handpicked — only<br />

the highest quality meats — so you can feel good<br />

about what you and your family are eating,” says<br />

Mark. Other suppliers will include Bryan Glivesy<br />

of YU Ranch Texas Longhorn, Fred and Ingrid de<br />

Martines of Perth Pork Products. There will also be<br />

free range ducks, chickens, eggs, fresh oysters and<br />

pre-made meals for takeaway.<br />

12 DAYS<br />

of<br />


Giveaways!<br />

Chef/Owner Mark Graham’s<br />

fresh, creative, locallysourced<br />

menus extend<br />

to full-service catering<br />

to Strathroy, London &<br />

area. Call for a quote!<br />

Voted #1 Best Burger<br />

in Strathroy<br />

<strong>2018</strong> Spirit Awards<br />

Winner<br />

Historic Post Office & Customs Building<br />

71 Frank St, Strathroy • 519-205-1500<br />


An Experience to Savour ...<br />

• Casual Fine Dining • Stunning Architecture<br />

• World-inspired Cuisine Featuring Local<br />

Ingredients, Plus a Vegan Menu<br />

• Private Dining Rooms for Lunch & Dinner<br />

NEW<br />

NEW<br />

MENUS<br />

MENUS<br />

Far Out ...<br />

but we like it that way!<br />

Blair Rd<br />

London<br />

International<br />

Airport<br />

Crumlin Rd<br />

Oxford St<br />

Now Open Thursday & Friday 11–9<br />

New Tapas Menu!<br />

Reserve Your<br />


PARTY or<br />

Event NOW!<br />

BLACK<br />


Open Mon–Sat<br />

lunch & dinner<br />

523 Richmond St. London www.blacktrumpet.ca<br />

RESERVATIONS: 519-850-1500 | info@blacktrumpet.ca<br />

Come for the planes and fall in<br />

love with the food. And ask for<br />

your Katana Christmas Chocolate<br />

when you come<br />

in to dine!<br />

Book Your<br />

Holiday<br />

Parties<br />

NOW!<br />

519-455-9005<br />

katanakafe.ca<br />

2530 Blair Rd, London<br />

Diamond Flight Centre<br />

Lunch Mon–Fri 11–3 • Dinner Wed–Sun from 5pm<br />

Weekend Breakfast 9–12, Lunch 12–3, Dinner 5–9<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Edgar and Joe’s, at two locations, is a gathering<br />

space and food operation with a social purpose.<br />

Each café makes fresh and local food available<br />

and affordable, with healthy choices. The stylish<br />

and minimalist 70-seat café opened in 2013 and<br />

is located in the Goodwill Centre. Rave reviews<br />

led to the opening of another location in 2017 at<br />

Innovation Works on King Street. Both cafés serve<br />

a diverse clientele from all over the city. Nutritious<br />

baked goods with high quality ingredients are<br />

freshly baked throughout the day. Sandwiches<br />

are definitely the stars of the show, from the<br />

classic BLT to innovative combinations inspired<br />

by global cuisines. Delicious soups, salads and<br />

a daily chalkboard special are on offer. The<br />

Classic Breakfast Special is a hearty standout.<br />

edgarandjoes.ca<br />

New fall/winter drinks created by the baristas<br />

at Locomotive Espresso include “The Smoky<br />

Mocha” — two shots of espresso and Ghirardelli<br />

chocolate topped with a smoked sea salt. Their<br />

popular creation from last year is also back: “The<br />

Tree Hugger Latte” includes Spruce Shoot Bitters<br />

by The New New Age in Port Stanley and local<br />

maple syrup. The popular toast bar is now more<br />

substantial, offering seasonal toast features such<br />

as Smoked Salmon on Artisan Bakery potato/leek<br />

sourdough served with whipped cream cheese,<br />

capers and fresh dill. Avocado Toast is paired<br />

with Artisan Bakery jalapeño cheddar toast and<br />

comes with goat cheese, lemon wedge and fresh<br />

herbs. Locomotive’s baking needs are being met by<br />

Helm Baked from Aylmer, who “magically” create<br />

wonderful gluten-free loaves, tarts and cookies.<br />

www.locomotiveespresso.com<br />

Stratford<br />

Stratford Chefs School (SCS) recently announced<br />

Jane Sigal as the <strong>2018</strong> Joseph Hoare Gastronomic<br />

Writer in Residence. She is a celebrated journalist,<br />

editor, recipe developer, translator, teacher, and<br />

the author of nine cookbooks. Her most recent<br />

book, Bistronomy: Recipes from The Best New Paris<br />

Bistros (Rizzoli, 2015), has been widely praised by<br />

critics and industry leaders. Sigal will spend two<br />

weeks at the school working with the students and<br />

participating in a number of events open to the<br />

public. stratfordchef.com<br />

In honour of its 35th anniversary, the SCS used this<br />

year’s Season Opener to launch Farm to Table,<br />

a cookbook that pairs 25 Stratford Chefs School<br />

alumni chefs with their favourite food producers<br />

and farmers for a culinary adventure through<br />

Perth and Huron Counties. This stunning book will

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Eperiential Tourism<br />

Recent research demonstrates that many travellers<br />

seek out authentic learning experiences, want<br />

to engage with community folks, and use travel<br />

as an opportunity to grow personally while having<br />

a low impact on local communities and their<br />

environments. Bryan Lavery (culinary educator,<br />

chef and <strong>Eatdrink</strong> food editor), Alieska Robles<br />

(creative director and photographer), along with<br />

Tourism London and Ontario’s Southwest, are<br />

collaborating on a new London culinary experience.<br />

They plan to introduce the concept of<br />

experiential tourism, with Celes Davar (of Earth<br />

Rhythms), Michelle Pierce Hamilton (certified tea<br />

sommelier and owner of bTeas/The Tea Lounge),<br />

Chef Brian Sua-an and Jerrah Revilles (of Reverie),<br />

chef Thomas Waite and Emanuela Frongia<br />

(of The In Home Chef) and farmer and educator<br />

Paul Spence of CK Table.<br />

Celes Davar is an experiential tourism operator,<br />

coach and facilitator. He helps guide tourism<br />

businesses across Canada to learn how to craft<br />

new experiences. Using the raw material of their<br />

backyard storytellers, natural places, culture and<br />

food traditions, he helps tourism partners to tell<br />

their stories through new higher yield experiences.<br />

These can then be layered into tourism businesses<br />

and communities, integrated with responsible<br />

<strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 43<br />

travel practices, and marketed to travellers<br />

seeking sustainable travel experiences.<br />

Davar defines experiential tourism as “creating<br />

experiences that engage visitors in a series of<br />

memorable activities, revealed over a period of<br />

time, that are inherently personal, engage the<br />

senses, and make connections on an emotional,<br />

physical, spiritual, or intellectual level.”<br />

Experiences with a culinary focus could look like<br />

this: while visiting an apiary, don protective gear<br />

and work with the bee-keeper to collect honey;<br />

or while attending cooking classes in Italy, stay<br />

with a local resident instead of at a hotel, and visit<br />

markets and other regional food suppliers.<br />

Experiential tourism is an extension of a<br />

global movement toward experiential learning,<br />

whereby people create meaning by appreciating<br />

cultural nuance through interactive authentic<br />

experiences. The world of travel is changing<br />

with dedicated interest and demand for firsthand<br />

travel experiences that resonates on a<br />

visceral level. Travel providers and guides are<br />

responding by developing services that “speak<br />

to place” and are more adventurous, more<br />

custom-made, and more attuned to interacting<br />

in a genuine way with local culture, inspiring<br />

travellers toward a path of self-discovery.

Freshly home-made in the heart of the community<br />

The<br />

Village<br />

Teapot<br />

Breakfast<br />

Brunch<br />

Lunch<br />

Cream Teas<br />

Wed & Thurs 10–3<br />

Fri 10–7:30<br />

Sat & Sun 10–2<br />

13257 Ilderton Road, Ilderton ON<br />

thevillageteapot.ca<br />

519-298-TEAS (8327)<br />

where art is<br />

Hey, Cupcake! a piece of cake<br />

The ORIGINAL<br />



BAKERY<br />

ASK US Custom Bakery • Walk-In Orders Available<br />


“RANDOM<br />

ACTS OF<br />



www.heycupcake.ca<br />

275 Wharncliffe Rd. North<br />

519-433-CAKE (2253)<br />

STORE HOURS: Mon–Fri 11–7<br />

Saturday 10–5 • Sunday 11–4<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

retail for $30 and feature recipes from some of the<br />

regions’ most celebrated graduates of the Stratford<br />

Chefs School, fascinating interviews with the chefs<br />

conducted by food columnist Andrew Coppolino,<br />

and striking imagery provided by photographer and<br />

SCS alumna Terry Manzo. (Note: Farm to Table is<br />

reviewed in this issue of <strong>Eatdrink</strong>. — Ed.)<br />

Stratford Chefs School Dough is a gift certificate<br />

program where “dough” (aka dollars) may be<br />

applied towards any SCS merchandise, Dinner<br />

Series, or Open Kitchen cooking class. Purchase<br />

SCS Dough valued at $120 for only $100. It can<br />

be purchased at the Administration Office at 192<br />

Ontario Street, and is available in $5, $10 and $20<br />

denominations. Some restrictions apply. 519-271-<br />

1414, stratfordchef.com<br />

Bradshaws Christmas Open House: Friday,<br />

<strong>November</strong> 9, 5–8 pm. Bring along a few of your<br />

friends for a fun night out and a first look at<br />

Bradshaws in all its Christmas glory. There will be<br />

delicious food samplings, hot new product demos,<br />

and an assortment of holiday giftware, kitchenware<br />

and entertaining items. Free gift with purchase and<br />

enter to win door prizes. bradshawscanada.com<br />

Bradshaws High Tea at Revival House: Nov 25<br />

visitstratford.ca/member/Bradshaws<br />

A Victorian Christmas in Downtown Stratford &<br />

Outdoor Christmas Market: Sunday, <strong>November</strong> 25<br />

visit Stratford’s historic downtown for the Outdoor<br />

Christmas Market in Stratford’s Market Square.<br />

Enjoy local art show, crafts for kids and meet Santa.<br />

Shop vendor stalls for holiday foods, crafts and gifts.<br />

Sip hot cocoa, listen to costumed carolers singing<br />

seasonal tunes and embrace the character and<br />

charm of Christmas in Stratford. visitstratford.ca<br />

Stratford Christmas Trail: From <strong>November</strong> 1 to<br />

<strong>December</strong> 20, capture the spirit of giving and the<br />

joy of checking off that list on Stratford’s Christmas<br />

Trail. You’ll discover unique and individual ideas<br />

as you stroll the festive streets exchanging six<br />

vouchers at your choice of 27 stops. visitstratford.<br />

ca/christmastrail<br />

The Milky Whey Fine Cheese Shop is offering a<br />

series of cheese pairing tastings. Explore Seasonal<br />

Beer and Cheese (October 27), Canadian Cheese<br />

and Wine (Nov 10), Who’s Got Your Goat with Pinots<br />

on the side (Nov 24) and Deconstructing a Holiday<br />

Charcuterie Board Workshop (Dec 1). All tastings<br />

are guided by cheesemonger Liz Payne in the “Whey<br />

Back Room” of Milky Whey Fine Cheese, Stratford.

Reserve Now<br />


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Reserve your seat early as these popular tastings<br />

sell out. visitstratford.ca/member/The-Milky-<br />

Whey-Fine-Cheese-Shop<br />

Stratford Farmers’ Market is a year round market<br />

operating since 1855, featuring fresh produce,<br />

crafts, meat and cheese. Stratford Rotary Complex,<br />

Agriplex, 353 McCarthy Rd., Stratford. Saturdays 7<br />

am – 12 pm. 519-271-5130. stratfordfairgrounds.com<br />

Savour Stratford Culinary Trails: Come to Stratford<br />

and explore the delicious flavours of Chocolate<br />

and Bacon and Ale on self-guided culinary walks to<br />

various food shops and restaurants. Available all<br />

year round, they are great for a friends’ getaway,<br />

a couple’s diversion or just for fun. Culinary trail<br />

gift certificates, great for Christmas, birthday and<br />

anniversary gifts, are redeemable at a later date<br />

and can be purchased on-line. visitstratford.ca/<br />

chocolatetrail<br />

The Mill Stone is focusing more on tapas/<br />

small plates for the autumn and winter months,<br />

and expanding their focus on various curing<br />

and fermenting projects. As with many places<br />

in Stratford in the off-season, look for more<br />

experimental and interesting creations coming<br />

from both the kitchen and bar. The restaurant will<br />

be closed for January; re-opening mid-February<br />

with lots of events planned to take them through to<br />

the busier summer months. themillstone.ca<br />

Come Home for the Holidays to La Casa!<br />

Tradition<br />

&<br />

Passion<br />

117 King Street<br />

across from Budweiser Gardens<br />

519-434-2272 (CASA)<br />

www.lacasaristorante.com<br />

“Enjoy consistently<br />

outstanding Italian and<br />

International cuisine<br />

in a warm and inviting<br />

atmosphere.”<br />

Reserve NOW for Your<br />

Holiday Party or Event!<br />

A<br />

London<br />

Landmark<br />

for<br />

24<br />

Years!<br />

Extensive<br />

Scotch Bar<br />

Open Mon–Sat<br />

Lunch & Dinner<br />

Black Swan Brewing Company is led by Ryan<br />

Stokes and head brewer Phil Philips. Join Black<br />

Swan on <strong>November</strong> 17 as they celebrate their<br />

recent expansion and fourth year pouring beer in<br />

Stratford. Live music, door prizes, tours & more! 144<br />

Downie St., Stratford, blackswanbrewing.ca<br />

The folks from The Red Rabbit and Okazu<br />

85 Downie love building new, worker-owned<br />

restaurants from (just about) the ground up. It<br />

gives them the opportunity to offer fair wages and<br />

year round employment — and now offer delicious<br />

food to early risers. Old Man & Son will open for<br />

breakfast and lunch, 7am–2pm, Wednesday–<br />

Sunday. Barring hold-backs, the aim is to open<br />

<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong>. This is a CSR project, a communityshared<br />

endeavour that provides an effective way<br />

to put your dollars into something you believe in.<br />

Investment is effectively prepayment in return for<br />

future products or services, or “restaurant futures,”<br />

using Kickstarter. You can find the form on their<br />

new website www.oldmanandson.com<br />

Loose Leaf Teas & Tisanes<br />

•<br />

Contemporary & Traditional Teaware<br />

•<br />

Fresh Soups, Salads, Cheese Boards,<br />

Desserts, Fresh-baked Scones<br />

Christmas<br />

Afternoon Tea<br />

<strong>December</strong> 16<br />

Classes<br />

& Events<br />

268 Piccadilly Street (beside Oxford Book Store)<br />

519-601-TEAS (8327) • tealoungelondon.com<br />

TUES-THURS 11am-5pm • FRI & SAT 11am-9pm • SUN Special Events Only

46 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

Around the Region<br />

The Village Teapot, owned and operated by Gaynor<br />

Deeks and Jana Yassine, will be serving a special<br />

Christmas Tea on Saturday <strong>December</strong> 8 and Sunday<br />

<strong>December</strong> 16, from 1 to 3 p.m. Reservations will be<br />

required. It will be a festive afternoon for family<br />

and friends to come together and enjoy savoury<br />

and sweet delights served on three-tiered platters.<br />

13257 Ilderton Road, Ilderton, 519-298-8327,<br />

thevillageteapot.ca<br />

Kitchen Widgets was established in 1995 to provide<br />

high quality kitchen tools and housewares to the<br />

Sarnia market, for those who love to cook, entertain<br />

or simply appreciate a widget that helps complete<br />

a task with ease. Kitchen Widgets has grown, and<br />

now sources products from around the globe while<br />

always on the hunt for items made close to home. If<br />

a product exists, they will find it for you and make<br />

every effort to get it into your hands. Don’t miss<br />

the Black Friday Sale on <strong>November</strong> 23. 129 Mitton<br />

Street South, Sarnia, kitchen-widgets.com<br />

The family at Blyth Farm Cheese are experts in the<br />

entire process of crafting great cheese. Everything<br />

from the farming, to the cheese making, to the<br />

packing is done on the farm. The Van Dorps have<br />

Award Winning<br />

Artisan Cheese<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

been successful farmers and cheese makers for<br />

generations. The business is steeped in important<br />

roots and traditions, while innovating and creating<br />

fresh and delicious flavours. 82521 Allboro Line,<br />

Blyth, blythfarmcheese.ca<br />

Steed & Company Lavender invite you to their<br />

annual Lavender Christmas Open House. Share<br />

some Christmas cheer with lavender cake and<br />

cider. Enter a draw for a beautiful lavender<br />

gift collection. Saturday, <strong>November</strong> 24, 10am–<br />

5pm and Sunday, <strong>November</strong> 25, noon–4pm.<br />

steedandcompanylavender.com<br />

Join sommelier and wine director Zach Lebert of<br />

Woodstock’s SixThirtyNine through a tasting of<br />

exquisite Italian wine paired with Italian small plates<br />

by Chef Eric Boyar on <strong>November</strong> 19. sixthirtynine.com<br />

After two winners at the Royal Winter Fair, where<br />

their Fontina and Farmstead Emmental both won<br />

First Place in their category, the folks at Stonetown<br />

Cheese in St. Marys competed at the British Empire<br />

Cheese Competition where they were honoured as<br />

they were awarded Grand Champion in Specialty<br />

Cheeses and First Place for Grand Trunk, First<br />

Place for Farmstead Emmental and First Place<br />

Gift Baskets to meet<br />

any need and price range<br />

Come Experience Our World!<br />

Visit our cheese shop and sample our unique<br />

handmade cheeses.<br />

See and learn about how cheese is made.<br />

Enjoy the scenery on our 3-generation family farm.<br />

Group tours are available by reservation.<br />

Monday–Saturday 9-5<br />

Christmas Eve 9–2<br />

Closed Christmas<br />

& Boxing Day<br />

445172 Gunn's Hill Rd, Woodstock, ON<br />

519-424-4024<br />

www.gunnshillcheese.ca<br />

481 Richmond Street<br />

519-432-4092<br />


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

for Farmstead Fontina. Congratulations! See this<br />

issue’s “Road Trip to St. Marys” for more info about<br />

visiting the Stonetown farm and factory, but their<br />

cheese is also available at better shops throughout<br />

the region. stonetowncheese.com<br />

Speaking of Cheese Champions, Shep Ysselstein of<br />

Woodstock’s Gunn’s Hill Artisan Cheese is proud to<br />

share that they were awarded the Grand Champion in<br />

the Variety Cheese Category for their Five Brothers<br />

at the Royal Winter Fair’s cheese competition for<br />

<strong>2018</strong>. Congratulations Shep! This popular cheese was<br />

a key ingredient in <strong>Eatdrink</strong>’s recipe contest winner<br />

for inclusion in the Forest City Cookbook released<br />

this summer. A visit to Gunn’s Hill is always a treat,<br />

but again, one can find their products throughout<br />

Southern Ontario. gunnshillcheese.ca<br />

Meet the Woodstock Public Library at Woodstock’s<br />

Upper Thames Brewing Company for pub trivia<br />

and test your knowledge. Come in a team of five or<br />

join upon arrival. <strong>November</strong> 21 and <strong>December</strong> 19.<br />

upperthamesbrewing.ca<br />

The holiday season kicks off at the Elm Hurst Inn on<br />

<strong>November</strong> 22 for the Groove Marmalade Holiday<br />

Dance Night and Dinner. $70 per person exclusive<br />

or stay the night and take advantage of a great<br />

seasonal package! elmhurstinn.com<br />

Truffle Camp Experience: Step into the role of<br />

chocolatier for an evening as you work with Cindy<br />

Walker of Ingersoll’s Chocolatea. You’ll love<br />

learning the art of truffle-making, working with a<br />

mix of local ingredients from neighbouring farms,<br />

and handcrafting your own small batch of 12<br />

truffles. <strong>November</strong> 28; <strong>December</strong> t; <strong>December</strong> 16;<br />

<strong>December</strong> 22. chocolatea.ca/product/truffle-camp<br />

We caught up with Chef Derrick Reinhardt of<br />

Montreal’s famed Joe Beef at gNnosh Dining &<br />

Cocktails by Joe Duby. Reinhardt, a Fanshawe<br />

College Chef School alumnus, is the chef at<br />

Montreal’s new 200-seat McKiernan Luncheonette<br />

in Côte-St-Paul, serving an all-day breakfast and<br />

lunch. mckiernanmtl.com<br />

We want your BUZZ!<br />

Do you have culinary news or upcoming events<br />

that you’d like us to share?<br />

Every issue, <strong>Eatdrink</strong> reaches more than<br />

50,000 readers across Southwestern Ontario<br />

in print, and thousands more online.<br />

Get in touch with us at editor@eatdrink.ca<br />

Submission deadline for the next issue: <strong>December</strong> 5<br />

Saying Goodbye to My Clients<br />

and Wortley Village<br />

After 22 years in the Village, Impressions<br />

will be under great new ownership as of<br />

Feb.1, 2019.<br />

I wish a fond farewell to my clients, staff<br />

and friends, with a deep appreciation for the<br />

fantastic people I have met and the<br />

relationships I have developed.<br />

I am looking forward to the next Chapter of<br />

my life and the new adventures that await<br />

me.<br />

Thank you from the bottom of my heart for<br />

some of the best years and many great<br />

memories!<br />

— Brenda<br />

PS … Stop in to discover who<br />

the new owner is!<br />

Featuring<br />

Creative Menus<br />

from Chefs<br />

Erryn Shephard<br />

&<br />

Ben Sandwith<br />

Seasonal Hours<br />

Reservations Recommended<br />

Always Available<br />

for Caterings!<br />


Book NOW for your<br />

Christmas Lunch or Dinner Party<br />

& Reserve for New Year’s Eve!<br />

519.238.6224<br />

42 Ontario St. S., Grand Bend<br />


48 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Theatre<br />

Scrooge Gets a Gender Flip<br />

Christmas at The Grand Theatre<br />


This holiday season Grand Theatre’s<br />

artistic director, Dennis Garnhum,<br />

shows commitment to his pledge<br />

to “ignite conversations about<br />

issues, ideas, and ways of thinking” with his<br />

feminization of A Christmas Carol. This year<br />

the story gets a gender flip. Meet the new<br />

Scrooge: Jan Alexandra Smith. The role will be<br />

played as a woman, by a woman.<br />

Garnhum calls it a fresh take on a classical<br />

tale of rebirth. “It will have the spirit of last<br />

year with a magical dose of fresh talent. It is<br />

meant to be fun — for the audience to wonder<br />

‘What if?’”<br />

Smith was Garnhum’s first choice to take<br />

on the female Scrooge role. She has been<br />

acting professionally in Canada for 32 years.<br />

Smith and Garnhum first met at Shaw Festival<br />

and then worked together again at Theatre<br />

Calgary. Interestingly, she was at the Grand<br />

1992-93 in the same play. She played the roles<br />

of Martha Cratchit and Belle, the beautiful<br />

young love interest of young Scrooge. Now<br />

it is her turn to be Scrooge. Back in the 1992<br />

production Aidan Desalaiz was Tiny Tim to<br />

her Martha. Desalaiz is also back on stage<br />

for this year’s production as Fred, Scrooge’s<br />

nephew. “We were brother and sister and here<br />

we are, all the years later, and he is Freddie<br />

Actress Jan Alexandra<br />

Smith will be playing<br />

the role of Scrooge in<br />

A Christmas Carol.<br />

and I am his Aunt Scrooge. He has matured<br />

into a beautiful man and actor and it’s special<br />

to do this with him,” says Smith.<br />

This year’s A Christmas Carol is the same<br />

production adapted by Garnhum, which<br />

ran last season. However this year it will be<br />

directed by Megan Watson, Grand Theatre<br />

Artistic Associate. Joining Smith on the Spriet<br />

Stage are Sean Arbuckle, returning in the<br />

role of Bob Cratchit, and Steve Ross as Mr.<br />

Fezziwig. Both have years of experience on<br />

the Stratford stage. This is always the Grand’s<br />

gain, to pick up national talent during the<br />

Stratford off months.<br />

The script will be feminized to reflect<br />

Scrooge as a woman. Garnhum says that<br />

Smith’s powerful force on the stage, along<br />

with her intelligence, makes her ideal to take<br />

on this gender switch. Last season she proved<br />

herself to Londoners as Johannah Donnelly<br />

in the local cultural epic, Vigilante. Smith is<br />

back in that role this year for the Grand’s<br />

reprise of the hit production in late February/<br />

early March 2019. As well, she recently played<br />

Mrs. Ross in Timothy Findley’s The Wars, also<br />

adapted and directed by Garnhum. Next April<br />

she will play Tanya in Mamma Mia!<br />

Smith says she takes inspiration from<br />

colleagues Seana McKenna who played Julius<br />

Caesar at Stratford this past<br />

season, and from Nora McLellan<br />

who also played a female Scrooge<br />

in a Theatre New Brunswick<br />

production in 2017. “I think it<br />

is great for the Grand Theatre<br />

to shake things up in this way<br />

and to have a female in this role.<br />

When I came to the opening of<br />

A Christmas Carol at the Grand<br />

last year, Ben Campbell came<br />

on stage and said iconic lines<br />

and I thought this stuff is so<br />

good, why can’t a woman have<br />

a chance to say those words and

ing in the holidays at the grand!<br />

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 49<br />

Starring<br />

Jan Alexandra<br />

Smith as Scrooge<br />

On Stage<br />

this <strong>December</strong><br />

By Charles Dickens<br />

Adapted by Dennis Garnhum<br />

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play that role? And, what do you know, a year<br />

later they are going to do it and I’m the lucky<br />

one who gets the opportunity to do it!”<br />

Both Garnhum and Smith are especially<br />

excited to see the female adaptation of the<br />

ending of A Christmas Carol, when Scrooge<br />

wakes up on Christmas morning, shedding<br />

her curmudgeonly ways to embrace a new,<br />

joyful approach to life. “People think they<br />

have seen it but they forget the details and<br />

emotions of that scene,” says Garnhum.<br />

Smith is excited to get into rehearsals to<br />

explore what happens when a woman shuts<br />

herself down from her heart and humanity<br />

and then is reborn. “It is fair to say that<br />

different genders have different emotional<br />

priorities. So it will be interesting to explore<br />

what happens, comparing how a man opens<br />

up his heart again and how a woman opens<br />

up her heart again — to realize it’s not too<br />

late to experience love for her fellows,” says<br />

Smith.<br />

JANE ANTONIAK is a regular contributor to <strong>Eatdrink</strong>.<br />

She is also Manager, Communications & Media Relations,<br />

at King’s University College in London.

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Music<br />

Holiday Notes<br />

Upcoming Highlights on the Music Scene<br />

<strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 51<br />


Yikes! The yuletide is almost upon<br />

us. How does this sneak up on us<br />

every year? If you’re already being<br />

driven bonkers by cheesy Christmas<br />

muzak, here’s my advice: insert earplugs<br />

before braving the malls. But good live music<br />

is the best antidote, and we have a ton of it in<br />

London and area this Noël.<br />

Let’s start with the explicitly Christmas fare.<br />

Aeolian Hall kicks it off on Sunday, <strong>November</strong><br />

25 (afternoon) with Broadsway Christmas, a<br />

jazzy evening with a trio of great voices: Junonominee<br />

and National Jazz Award Vocalist of<br />

the Year Heather Bambrick, Dora Mavor Moore<br />

Award nominee Diane Leah, and Julie Michels.<br />

CBC Radio called their seasonal album, The<br />

Most Wonderful Time … Maybe, “a musical<br />

version of the best office Christmas party ever!”<br />

Broadsway<br />

Christmas picks up steam in <strong>December</strong>.<br />

London Symphonia does its annual rendition<br />

of Handel’s Messiah on Saturday, <strong>December</strong> 1 at<br />

First-Saint Andrew’s Church (7:30 pm), joined<br />

as usual by London Pro Musica Choir and<br />

the baroque soloists from Capella Intima, all<br />

under the baton of conductor Kevin Mallon.<br />

The Messiah never gets stale.<br />

On Sunday, <strong>December</strong> 2 it’s another<br />

songstress trio, this time in the folk music<br />

vein. Cuckoo’s Nest Folk Club is bringing<br />

Boreal to Chaucer’s Pub (7:30 pm). The three<br />

women, all from Guelph — Tannis Slimmon,<br />

Katherine Wheatley, and Jude Vadala — get<br />

together every year to tour their “Songs for<br />

the Snowy Season” show. It started with a<br />

kitchen concert 11 years ago, and has become<br />

a seasonal tradition for their many fans.<br />

Magisterra Soloists check in with<br />

“Christmas Baroque,” a concert of Yule-themed<br />

favourites from Vivaldi, Bach, Handel and<br />

other baroquistes. It goes at St. Luke’s Anglican<br />

Church on Thursday, <strong>December</strong> 6 (7 pm).<br />

The Ennis Sisters<br />

Aeolian Hall has dynamite back-to-back<br />

Christmas concerts on Monday, <strong>December</strong><br />

10 and Tuesday, <strong>December</strong> 11 (both at 8 pm).<br />

The Good Lovelies — yet another female<br />

threesome: Caroline Brooks, Kerri Ough and<br />

Susan Passmore — are in on the Monday<br />

with their charming Christmas concert<br />

of folk-tinged favourites. This is a return<br />

engagement; the Lovelies were here last year<br />

and it is becoming an annual fixture. Then on<br />

the Tuesday, it’s Newfoundland’s The Ennis<br />

Sisters. That’s right, another threesome:<br />

A Next Generation Leahy Christmas

52 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

Maureen, Karen and Teresa. Their show<br />

includes originals and Christmas standards.<br />

The Ennises are known for tight sisterly<br />

harmonies and between-song banter.<br />

Sunfest presents A Next Generation<br />

Leahy Christmas on Wednesday, <strong>December</strong><br />

12 (8 pm), at London Music Hall. The group<br />

features six of the nine children of fiddler<br />

Doug Leahy, a member of the celebrated<br />

family band Leahy and his wife Jennifer, who<br />

plays piano and sings. Ages eight through<br />

sixteen, the Leahy children already are highly<br />

accomplished multi-instrumentalists, playing<br />

traditional country and folk styles, filled with<br />

the high‐energy, Celtic‐based music of their<br />

family’s holiday traditions.<br />

Canada’s Ballet Jörgen<br />

Another London Christmas tradition is a<br />

visit from Canada’s Ballet Jörgen with its<br />

production of Tchaikovsky’s The Nutcracker.<br />

Centennial Hall has one show, on Sunday,<br />

<strong>December</strong> 23 (3 pm). A cool thing about<br />

Jörgen is that the troupe works with area<br />

dance schools and features local child dancers<br />

in its performances.<br />

Enough of Christmas. There’s lots of other<br />

good music coming our way too.<br />

Let’s double back to Wednesday, <strong>November</strong><br />

14, when Jazz for the People brings The Joe<br />

Policastro Trio to Wolf Performance Hall at<br />

the Central Library (7:15 pm). Led by bassist<br />

Policastro<br />

and featuring<br />

guitarist<br />

Dave Miller,<br />

the Chicagobased<br />

trio<br />

is a rarity in<br />

that it almost<br />

always plays<br />

together, a<br />

true group.<br />

They do<br />

straight-up<br />

The Joe Policastro Trio<br />

jazz, but also<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

branch into blues, funk, pop and free jazz. As<br />

always, it’s a free concert. (Whoop!)<br />

Kolonien<br />

As part of the TD Sunfest World Music &<br />

Jazz Series, in cooperation with the Cuckoo’s<br />

Nest Folk Club, Swedish folk band Kolonien<br />

takes the stage <strong>November</strong> 16 (7:30 pm)<br />

at Chaucer’s Pub. Billed as “Sweden’s most<br />

exciting folk band,” Kolonien has been making<br />

its mark with its visionary folk and roots<br />

music in Europe and Scandinavia.<br />

Jazz and folk not your thing? How about<br />

reggae then? As part of the TD Sunfest World<br />

Music & Jazz Series, London Music Hall has<br />

the legendary Wailers (7 pm/8 pm). That’s<br />

right, of Bob Marley and the Wailers. Except,<br />

well … The Wailers play on Marley-less, led by<br />

bassist and band founder Aston “Familyman”<br />

Barrett. The good news: the music sounds as<br />

infectious, mellow and danceable as ever.<br />

The Wailers<br />

Magisterra Soloists continue their<br />

Magisterra at the Museum series at Museum<br />

London on Thursday, <strong>November</strong> 15 (7 pm).<br />

The concert is titled “Masquerade,” subtitled,<br />

“Revised, Revived, Rebooted.” The publicity<br />

material teases with, “get surprised by works of<br />

Bach/Mozart…” — funny, we didn’t know those<br />

two wrote together — “…Dvorak, Piazolla…”<br />

We’re not sure what to expect. The evening also<br />

includes a little-heard early piano quintet by the<br />

great mid-20th-century symphony conductor<br />

George Szell.

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Opera at<br />

Western is<br />

back with<br />

“The Turn of<br />

the Screw,”<br />

by Benjamin<br />

Britten,<br />

an opera<br />

adaptation of<br />

the very scary<br />

ghost story<br />

by Henry<br />

James. It goes<br />

<strong>November</strong><br />

15 and 16 (8 pm), and <strong>November</strong> 17 and 18 (2<br />

pm) at the Paul Davenport Theatre (Talbot<br />

College) on Western University’s campus. If<br />

you’ve shied away from opera because of the<br />

language barrier, know that this one is written<br />

and sung entirely in English.<br />

Aeolian Hall has Canada’s “Goddess of the<br />

Blues,” Rita Chiarelli and her band Sweet<br />

Loretta, on Saturday, <strong>November</strong> 17 (8 pm).<br />

Chiarelli,<br />

a Juno<br />

winner, is an<br />

Rita Chiarelli<br />

accomplished<br />

songwriter<br />

and dynamic<br />

performer<br />

with an<br />

awesome<br />

three-octave<br />

set of pipes.<br />

“A voice<br />

so blue it<br />

could make<br />

the angels<br />

weep,” one<br />

critic gushed.<br />

There’s more<br />

to Chiarelli. Her latest CD release is the<br />

soundtrack to the documentary Music From<br />

The Big House. It’s a live recording featuring<br />

Chiarelli with musician-inmates at Louisiana’s<br />

maximum-security Angola Prison, considered<br />

by some to be the birthplace of the blues.<br />

Answer me this: why does Brantford get<br />

Blue Rodeo and London apparently can’t?<br />

The iconic folk-rockers are at the Sanderson<br />

Centre on Friday, <strong>November</strong> 23 and Saturday,<br />

<strong>November</strong> 24 (8 pm). Oh, well. Brantford<br />

is only an hour or so away. Might be worth<br />

the drive? The Rodeo are playing Kitchener’s<br />

Centre in the Square too, on <strong>December</strong> 29.<br />

London does get the legendary Gordon<br />

Patricia Cano<br />

Saturday, <strong>November</strong> 10<br />

Aeolian Hall, 795 Dundas St.<br />

From<br />

Sweden<br />

World Music<br />

&<br />

Jazz Series<br />

‘18 - ‘ 19<br />

www.sunfest.on.ca<br />

The Wailers<br />

Wednesday, <strong>November</strong> 14<br />

London Music Hall, 185 Queens Ave.<br />

acher Flyer (2016)<br />

(Beth) Hickey, BA(MUS)<br />

Next Generation<br />

Kolonien Leahy Christmas<br />

ced piano/theory teacher now accepting new students into professional music<br />

Opera at Western (photo from “Carmen”)<br />

, active musician, established in the community<br />

Friday, <strong>November</strong> 16, 7:30 pm<br />

al instruction<br />

Wednesday, <strong>December</strong> 12<br />

Chaucer’s Pub, 122 Carling St. London Music Hall, 185 Queens Ave.<br />

ounding to have gift of music for life / lifelong Michael gift of music<br />

Kaeshammer Jesse<br />

ome-based environment<br />

Cook<br />

orth location, convenient to bus routes<br />

Thursday, <strong>December</strong> 13 Friday, March 22, 2019<br />

ionate, kind, caring, nurturing, gentle, encouraging, Aeolian Hall, 795 Dundas understanding<br />

St. London Music Hall, 185 Queens Ave.<br />

Most Concerts: Doors at 7:00 pm ~ Performances at 8:00 pm<br />

nservatory Exam Preparation<br />

Tickets at Venue Box Offices, Centennial Hall,<br />

Long & McQuade North, Village Idiot (Wortley Village), and sunfest.on.ca<br />

y Piano Proficiency Preparation<br />

n Street<br />

4022<br />

Develop skills & a love for music<br />


Experienced Piano/Theory Teacher<br />

now accepting new students<br />

Individual Instruction for All Ages<br />

Compassionate, Caring, Encouraging<br />

Home-based Professional Music Studio<br />

Royal Conservatory Exam Preparation<br />

University Piano Proficiency Preparation<br />

Beth Hickey, BA (MUS)<br />

North London<br />

bhickey57@hotmail.com 519-432-4022

54 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Lightfoot — at Budweiser Gardens on<br />

Saturday, <strong>November</strong> 24 (8 pm). How much<br />

longer can the venerable Lightfoot keep doing<br />

this? Catch him while you can.<br />

Colin Linden<br />

Canadian roots music everywhere-man<br />

Colin Linden is at Aeolian Hall on Thursday,<br />

<strong>November</strong> 29 (8 pm). The multi-awardwinning<br />

Linden is one third of Blackie and the<br />

Rodeo Kings, an in-demand record producer<br />

with over 70 albums to his credit, musical<br />

director of the hit TV show Nashville, and a<br />

guitarist-for-hire to the stars, including Bob<br />

Dylan, Emmylou Harris, Robert Plant, Alison<br />

Krauss. Need we say more? Oh yeah, he has 13<br />

solo albums to his credit too.<br />

John Prine<br />

Now here’s a name from the storied past:<br />

John Prine. The American folk troubadour<br />

plays Centennial Hall on Saturday, <strong>December</strong><br />

8 (8 pm). Once spoken of in the same breath<br />

as Dylan, Prine never became a superstar. He<br />

just continued to write intelligent, heartfelt<br />

songs and play them in his inimitable style.<br />

He’s still doing it. His latest CD, The Tree of<br />

Forgiveness, the latest in a string of releases<br />

dating back to 1971, came out earlier this year.<br />

Forgotten about Prine? Refresh your memory<br />

here: goo.gl/f8qm6w.<br />

Sunfest is bringing prolific jazzman<br />

Michael Kaeshammer to Aeolian Hall on<br />

Thursday, <strong>December</strong> 13 (8 pm). Kaeshammer<br />

is the interesting dude who discovered his<br />

love of boogie-woogie and stride piano as a<br />

teen while living in his native Germany, before<br />

emigrating with his family to BC. Twenty-two<br />

years and 12 albums later, you’d have to say he<br />

made a success of it here. He was nominated<br />

for a Juno for his last album, his eighth nod<br />

(he’s won twice). Don’t know Kaeshammer’s<br />

music? Check it out here: goo.gl/sn4uhe.<br />

And finally,<br />

with Christmas<br />

done and<br />

dusted, why<br />

not lighten<br />

the midwinter<br />

blues<br />

with Martha<br />

Wainwright.<br />

She’s at<br />

Aeolian Hall<br />

on Wednesday,<br />

January<br />

16 (8 pm),<br />

along with<br />

special guest<br />

Martha Wainwright<br />

Beyries, an<br />

up-and-coming<br />

Montreal singer-songwriter. If ever a<br />

performer had pedigree, it’s Wainwright:<br />

daughter of Kate McGarrigle (of the<br />

McGarrigle Sisters) and Loudon Wainwright<br />

III, and sister of Rufus. Her music is raw and<br />

honest. She’s touring a new album, Goodnight<br />

City, billed as a return to the form of her<br />

career-making 2005 debut. Martha rocks.<br />

GERRY BLACKWELL is a London-based freelance<br />


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 55<br />

Recipes<br />

Farm to Table<br />

Celebrating Stratford Chefs School Alumni,<br />

Recipes & Perth County Producers<br />

By Andrew Coppolino<br />

Review and Recipe Selections by TRACY TURLIN<br />

My approach to life and work<br />

could be kindly described as<br />

scattered so I’ve always been a<br />

touch envious of people who are<br />

truly passionate about one thing. When that<br />

focus is aimed at celebrating and promoting<br />

their community, it’s a beautiful thing. When<br />

they’re in the food industry, it’s also delicious.<br />

This fall, that delicious thing is Farm<br />

to Table: Celebrating Stratford Chefs School<br />

Alumni, Recipes & Perth County Producers<br />

(Andrew Coppolino, Blue Moon Publishers).<br />

Andrew Coppolino is the editor of Waterloo<br />

Region Eats, a food blog that I spent way too<br />

much time reading while I should have been<br />

writing this review. He’s also a food columnist<br />

for CBC Radio Waterloo, has written for a host<br />

of other respected food publications, and makes<br />

regular contributions to <strong>Eatdrink</strong>’s Waterloo<br />

Region & Wellington County editions. As far as<br />

I can tell, he only takes time out from writing<br />

about food long enough to eat food.<br />

Coppolino is a champion for innovative<br />

cooking done by knowledgeable chefs using<br />

the best local products available. In Farm<br />

to Table he brings together a<br />

number of people who love<br />

this idea as much as he does.<br />

He introduces the reader to the<br />

Stratford Chefs School and the<br />

Perth County producers who are<br />

affiliated with it.<br />

Joe Mandel of The Church,<br />

Jim Morris of Rundles, and<br />

Eleanor Kane of The Old Prune<br />

began the school in 1983. They<br />

knew they needed good local<br />

talent and saw an opportunity<br />

to retain the chefs that worked<br />

during the <strong>November</strong> to March<br />

off-season in Stratford. Instead<br />

Author Andrew Coppolino<br />

of being laid<br />

off or moving<br />

on, these<br />

chefs were<br />

now able<br />

to teach,<br />

giving local<br />

budding<br />

chefs the<br />

opportunity<br />

to train<br />

with the<br />

best.<br />

Students were<br />

able to gain valuable experience in<br />

the kitchens of the three founding restaurants.<br />

SCS has always focused on the relationship<br />

between the farm and the kitchen, recognizing<br />

the importance of local, seasonal ingredients<br />

that allow chefs to express the nature of the<br />

region in their dishes. It’s about more than<br />

food; it’s about respect for the work involved in<br />

producing high quality products.<br />

SCS is a not-for-profit organization that<br />

offers well-rounded programs<br />

to prepare students for many<br />

aspects of the food industry.<br />

I love that it also offers<br />

recreational workshops for<br />

adventurous home cooks<br />

and a one-week exploratory<br />

course for those who want to<br />

find out what the industry<br />

demands and offers. The<br />

school produces chefs, food<br />

entrepreneurs, writers and<br />

photographers.<br />

Terry Manzo is one of<br />

Stratford Chefs School’s first<br />

graduates and has been a

56 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

professional freelance photographer for 30<br />

years. The book is full of her vibrant, energetic<br />

photos. Many of the shots look deceptively<br />

casual until you notice the brilliant use of light<br />

and shadow that makes subjects seem to glow.<br />

Each recipe in Farm to Table is the result of the<br />

pairing of a chef with one of his or her favourite<br />

producers and includes a profile of both.<br />

Author Kathleen Sloan-McIntosh owns Black<br />

Dog Village Pub & Bistro in Bayfield. With SCS<br />

graduate Nathaniel Beattie as executive chef,<br />

Black Dog works to expand the farm-to-table<br />

concept in Huron County. Gerhard Metzger has<br />

run Metzger’s Meat Products Inc. in Hensall<br />

since 1990. He works with local farmers to<br />

provide specialty cuts for restaurant and retail<br />

sales. Sloan-McIntosh uses<br />

Metzger’s pork to create Char<br />

Siu Pork Shoulder. It’s simply<br />

tender bits of pork shoulder<br />

slow cooked in a sweet,<br />

spicy, Chinese BBQ sauce<br />

and garnished with green<br />

onion and sesame seeds. The<br />

dish can be served as a main<br />

course or in lettuce cups as a<br />

fun appetizer.<br />

Sean Collins is the<br />

executive Chef at The Red<br />

Rabbit, a worker-owned<br />

restaurant in downtown<br />

Stratford where they strive<br />

to do everything as well<br />

as possible and seem to<br />

have a blast doing it. Max<br />

Lass of Church Hill Farm<br />

aims to provide “high<br />

quality, humanely raised<br />

pork, lamb, beef and fowl”.<br />

This family-owned farm<br />

completes the farm-totable<br />

loop by collecting<br />

vegetable trimmings from<br />

restaurants and mash from<br />

craft breweries to feed to<br />

the animals. Collins gives us<br />

Charcoal-Grilled Church Hill<br />

Farm Lamb with Herbs and<br />

Freekeh. Freekeh, the grain of<br />

young durum wheat, roasted<br />

and cracked, makes the<br />

stuffing for a butterflied leg<br />

of lamb that is then grilled to<br />

perfection.<br />

SCS is a national<br />

success because it is a local<br />

Char Sui Pork Shoulder<br />

champion. It teaches professionals and<br />

amateurs alike that the heart of any good<br />

dish, fruitful business or successful restaurant<br />

is the relationship between people and place.<br />

It’s the magic that happens when all these<br />

good things come together to be greater than<br />

the sum of their parts.<br />

TRACY TURLIN is a freelance writer and dog groomer<br />

in London. Reach her at tracyturlin@gmail.com<br />

Recipes excerpted from Farm to Table: Celebrating<br />

Stratford Chefs School Alumni, Recipes & Perth County<br />

Producers reproduced by arrangement with the<br />

Publisher. All rights reserved.

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Char Sui Pork Shoulder<br />

Collaborators:<br />

Kathleen Sloan-McIntosh, Black Dog Village Pub & Bistro<br />

Gerhard Metzger, Metzger’s Meat Products Inc.<br />


½ cup hoisin sauce<br />

¾ cup liquid honey<br />

½ cup soy sauce<br />

¼ cup shaoxing (Chinese cooking wine)<br />

2 tsp Chinese 5-spice powder<br />

2 tbsp fresh gingerroot, grated<br />

8 cloves garlic, finely minced<br />

½ tsp red chili flakes (optional)<br />


4 lb (1.8 kg) boneless pork shoulder, excess fat<br />

trimmed, cut into 2-inch (5 cm) chunks<br />

2 tbsp olive oil<br />

1 large onion, sliced<br />

½ tsp salt<br />

½ tsp freshly ground black pepper<br />


Sesame seeds<br />

Finely chopped green onion<br />

Butter lettuce<br />

METHOD<br />

Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C).<br />

Choose a large, oven-proof baking dish for the pork.<br />

Add the pork chunks to the dish along with the olive oil<br />

and sliced onion. Add salt and pepper and toss together<br />

thoroughly. Use heavyweight aluminum foil to cover the<br />

dish snugly. Place in the preheated oven and bake for 1<br />

hour.<br />

After an hour, pull the dish from the oven, remove the foil<br />

and add the prepared sauce to the pork. Stir this mixture<br />

well into the pork and the liquid that has accumulated: it<br />

is important not to drain this liquid.<br />

Return the dish to the oven and continue to bake for<br />

another 30 minutes. Then, give the mixture another stir<br />

and return to the oven for another 30 minutes. At this<br />

point, test a piece of the pork to see if it is done to your<br />

liking — it should be tender but not falling apart. If it is<br />

as you like it, remove from the oven, sprinkle with sesame<br />

seeds and chopped green onion and serve with butter<br />

lettuce. If you continue baking, be careful not to overbake,<br />

otherwise the pork will become too dry.<br />

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Charcoal-Grilled Church Hill Farm Lamb<br />

with Herbs and Freekeh<br />

Collaborators:<br />

Sean Collins, The Red Rabbit<br />

Max Lass, Church Hill Farm<br />


1 fresh boneless free-range lamb leg, butterflied<br />

¼ cup pepper, fresh ground<br />

¼ cup cumin, toasted and ground<br />

3 tbsp butter<br />

6 oz (170g) pancetta or cured pork, small dice<br />

1 large onion, minced<br />

8 cloves fresh garlic, minced<br />

Freekeh* (or farro), cooked like pasta in boiling<br />

salted water until tender, cooled<br />

kosher salt<br />

1 lemon (for juice and zest)<br />

2 eggs<br />

½ cup panko bread crumbs<br />

½ cup fresh chopped herbs (use whatever herbs<br />

you like!)<br />

olive oil to rub meat<br />

*freekeh is harvested grains<br />

from green durum wheat<br />

that is roasted and dried<br />

to create its unique smoky<br />

flavour.<br />


Sugar snap peas<br />

Butter<br />

Mustard<br />

Feta, crumbled<br />


Charcoal grill, fire pit, or<br />

propane barbecue<br />

Good quality charcoal<br />

Butcher twine<br />

Probe thermometer<br />

METHOD<br />

The night before prepare the<br />

lamb: spread lamb out on a<br />

cutting board or sheet pan and<br />

season generously with pepper<br />

and cumin on all sides. Return<br />

the seasoned lamb to the fridge<br />

and let it sit for 2–12 hours (roll it<br />

up to save space).<br />

To make the stuffing, add the<br />

butter to a large skillet and cook<br />

over medium heat until just<br />

bubbling. Add the pancetta and<br />

cook until lightly crisp. Add the<br />

onion and garlic and cook until<br />

translucent. Add the cooked<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

freekeh, salt and pepper and lemon. Remove from the<br />

heat and let cool slightly. Stir in the eggs, panko and fresh<br />

herbs and taste to adjust seasoning as needed. Refrigerate<br />

overnight.<br />

The next day, light the charcoal and let it burn until it<br />

has created a nice bed of coals in a charcoal barbecue or<br />

fire-pit with a rack. Have a second pile of burning charcoal<br />

ready to replenish the fire, if needed. If using propane,<br />

preheat the grill to medium heat.<br />

In the meantime, finish the lamb. Remove meat and<br />

stuffing from the fridge and spread the lamb onto a metal<br />

tray or in a roasting pan. Season generously with salt.<br />

Spoon the stuffing in a row slightly off the centre of the<br />

meat to form a cylinder, almost from end to end. Roll the<br />

meat over and shape it into a cylinder with the seam on<br />

the bottom. Tie the cylinder tightly with 4 or 5 pieces of<br />

butcher twine, tucking any stuffing back into the cylinder.

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Season the outside of the meat with salt, rub lightly with<br />

olive oil and set aside.<br />

When your grill is hot enough that you can’t hold your<br />

hand over for 5 seconds, carefully place lamb roast on<br />

the grill. Grill on all sides until golden brown and slightly<br />

charred (about 2-4 minutes per side). With a probe<br />

thermometer, check internal temperature every 10–15<br />

minutes. Roast until the thermometer reaches 135°–145°F<br />

(57°–63°C). If internal temperature is not reached and the<br />

surface of the meat is getting too dark, simply push coals<br />

to one side and continue cooking over indirect heat until<br />

finished. If using a propane barbecue, turn burners off<br />

on one side and move lamb to that side and close the lid.<br />

Remove the roast to a platter, cover with foil and let it rest<br />

for 15 to 30 minutes (or longer).<br />

Remove the string and carve the lamb with your sharpest<br />

knife. Serve with fresh sugar snap peas sautéed in butter,<br />

your favourite mustard and crumbled local feta.<br />

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60 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Books<br />

My 25 Years in Provence<br />

Reflections on Then and Now<br />

by Peter Mayle<br />

Review by DARIN COOK<br />

Some books are so seminal that from<br />

their first appearance they become<br />

untouchable, iconic archetypes,<br />

paving the way for future authors<br />

to imitate, but never replicate — a good<br />

storytelling recipe. I knew I was onto<br />

something of this calibre when I first read A<br />

Year in Provence by Peter Mayle when it came<br />

out in 1989. Mayle knew it too, since he has<br />

written many sequels that thread together his<br />

unique and exquisitely described outlook on<br />

French food and culture. It started out as “a<br />

year” and now, after a quarter of a century of<br />

Provencal living, Mayle is taking a look back in<br />

My 25 Years in Provence (Appetite by Random<br />

House, <strong>2018</strong>). Provence is truly a magical place<br />

that spoke to Mayle through its food — a<br />

place where vin rose is “a taste of summer in<br />

the glass”, where making goat cheese is an art<br />

form, where eating a black truffle on foie gras<br />

is “the closest thing on earth to having heaven<br />

in your mouth”, and where the night markets<br />

provide the most pleasant grocery shopping<br />

experience he can ever imagine.<br />

By taking up residence in such a unique<br />

locale, Mayle grew accustomed to picking up<br />

on the trends of the seasons by observing<br />

what farmers were up to and listening to the<br />

gossip of the patrons in local cafés. Provence<br />

is an agricultural<br />

region bursting<br />

with grape<br />

vineyards,<br />

olive groves,<br />

fig trees, and<br />

asparagus<br />

fields. It also<br />

has a bit<br />

of the wild<br />

side with truffle<br />

hunters and their golden-nosed<br />

dogs secretly plying their trade to keep their<br />

sources out of the sight of others, while game<br />

hunters with noisier instruments roam the<br />

woods in search of wild boar. Throughout<br />

the year, food festivals are governed by the<br />

seasons to display regional delicacies — rice,<br />

olives, truffles, lemons, melons, garlic. Mayle<br />

writes, “These are informal, good-natured<br />

affairs, organized by people whose sole desire<br />

is to give you a taste of pleasure, whether your<br />

particular weakness is a fresh sardine or an<br />

elderly cheese.” He continues by saying the<br />

range of festivals “supports the widely held<br />

conviction that, wherever you are in Provence,<br />

you need never go hungry.”<br />

Just as Mayle navigated towns, fields and<br />

forests of the French countryside, so does his<br />

writing wander across Provence to suggest<br />

some of his favourite lunch items at favourite<br />

restaurants in favourite towns. With dining<br />

tips from the likes of Mayle, we could not ask<br />

for more as readers. One beloved regional<br />

speciality is bouillabaisse made with fresh<br />

seafood gathered off the coast of Marseille,<br />

which he describes as “part soup, part fish<br />

stew; delicious, but difficult to control. Many<br />

an immaculate shirtfront has suffered from<br />

Author Peter Mayle

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

garlic-stains and it is a wise customer who<br />

asks for two large napkins.”<br />

His writings about Provence have inevitably<br />

caused others to follow him. His books have<br />

drawn attention to the region and tourism<br />

has blossomed, for better or worse. Certain<br />

things have changed because of tourism.<br />

Mayle hates that cafés have been replaced by<br />

boutiques that tend to be more profitable than<br />

selling cups of coffee. But it is the qualities<br />

that remain the same, that have endured<br />

the test of time, that have withstood the<br />

invasion of foreigners, that are the qualities<br />

that made him fall in love with Provence<br />

in the first place: the slow pace of life, the<br />

marvellous weather, spirited games of boules<br />

(lawn bowling), market shopping with fresh<br />

ingredients unhampered by plastic packaging<br />

or metal cans, and a regional anise-flavoured<br />

alcohol called pastis.<br />

Even though I have been a fan of Mayle’s<br />

books since he began writing more than a<br />

quarter of a century ago, I was sadly unaware<br />

that he had passed away. I had been reading<br />

this book with the same enjoyment as always<br />

when I learned from the biographical insert<br />

on the back cover than he had died earlier<br />

this year, making this book a posthumous<br />

publication and his final words on Provence.<br />

Even though I missed his obituary in the social<br />

media news feeds back in January <strong>2018</strong>, I<br />

reverently bowed my head at the start of each<br />

new chapter to honour his soul. It was a good<br />

run and I am sad this is his last book. The world<br />

lost a great author with the death of Mayle this<br />

year, but this author’s life gave Provence to the<br />

world in a way only he could.<br />

DARIN COOK is a regular <strong>Eatdrink</strong> contributor who<br />

lives and works in Chatham-Kent.<br />

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62 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

The Lighter Side<br />

Salvaging the Magic of Eggnog<br />


I<br />

have noticed that eggnog is now<br />

being stocked in grocery stores long<br />

before Christmas, infringing not<br />

only on American Thanksgiving in<br />

<strong>November</strong>, but also Canadian Thanksgiving<br />

and Halloween in October. These are three<br />

significant holidays being upstaged by<br />

Christmas cheer before its time. Being in<br />

stores earlier merely widens the window of<br />

opportunity for it to be consumed.<br />

“What is that doing here?” my son asked<br />

last year, pointing at a<br />

wall of eggnog cartons<br />

in a grocery display. “It’s<br />

not Christmas yet, is it?”<br />

It was early October,<br />

with several non-yuletide<br />

festivities still to come.<br />

My two sons believe<br />

eggnog was created for<br />

Santa Claus, and that<br />

normal humans are<br />

allowed to join in by purchasing the cartons<br />

sold at stores, so usually it wasn’t until<br />

<strong>December</strong> that we started buying eggnog<br />

regularly to get the Christmas cheer rolling.<br />

The sign over the eggnog display<br />

proclaimed “Not Just for Christmas<br />

Anymore!” But I think most people feel<br />

that eggnog IS just for Christmas. Who was<br />

this sign trying to fool? Since I love eggnog<br />

so much, I guess it fooled me. Cast under<br />

the spell of that grocery store marketing,<br />

I decided to see if a Christmas beverage<br />

could hold its own when straying from its<br />

intended holiday. When I brought home<br />

the first carton one week before Canadian<br />

Thanksgiving, my wife rolled her eyes.<br />

“What is that doing here?” she questioned.<br />

“It’s not <strong>December</strong> yet.”<br />

I shared her misgivings, but I drank my<br />

first cup anyway. It tasted great, because the<br />

sweet, creamy nectar had not touched my lips<br />

for over ten months. But it felt odd being out<br />

of season.<br />

After learning that <strong>December</strong> 24th has been<br />

declared National Eggnog Day, I considered<br />

trying my hand at creating homemade<br />

eggnog. Alton Brown, the culinary genius of<br />

Food Network fame, is my go-to guy when<br />

experimenting with new recipes and I found<br />

an eggnog recipe in his book, Good Eats 2:<br />

The Middle Years. Alton strongly advises<br />

that “the key to success in making eggnog is<br />

patience” and I went into eggnog production<br />

hoping that I had the stamina to keep up.<br />

There was a lot of stand<br />

mixer beating involved<br />

(where the patience<br />

comes in handy). The<br />

combination of eggs,<br />

sugar, milk, cream,<br />

and nutmeg ended<br />

up being a delicious<br />

version of eggnog<br />

like we had never had<br />

from a carton. Alton’s<br />

recipe calls for the addition of rum, brandy, or<br />

bourbon, but that would come after the kids<br />

went to bed.<br />

Since it had started appearing early, I’d had<br />

my fill of more eggnog than most years. Even<br />

so, I convinced my family that making a fresh<br />

batch on National Eggnog Day could be our<br />

new tradition, to serve Santa the best we had<br />

to offer. Before bedtime, my sons placed a<br />

mug of eggnog and a plate of cookies by the<br />

chimney. When they weren’t looking I poured<br />

a shot of rum into the mug. As Christmas<br />

Eve drew to a close I imbibed one more glass<br />

of our homemade batch, just as Santa would<br />

do when he arrived. Mine also had an extra<br />

dash of rum — it seemed wrong, on National<br />

Eggnog Day, to not enjoy one last swig in the<br />

most appropriate way before retiring it until<br />

next Christmas. Or October.<br />

DARIN COOK is a regular <strong>Eatdrink</strong> contributor who<br />

lives and works in Chatham-Kent.

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 63<br />

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