Eatdrink #74 November/December 2018

Issue #74 | The Holiday Issue | November/December 2018
eatdrink
The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine
Gift
OUR ANNUAL
Guide
page 22
Reverie
A Modernist Canadian
Tasting Menu
Restaurant
FEATURING
The Church Key Bistro-Pub
An Upscale Pub with Great Food
The Farm to Table Cookbook
Celebrating Stratford Chefs School
St. Marys Road Trip
The Pleasures of a Small Town
Serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario since 2007
www.eatdrink.ca

THE CHRISTMAS TRAIL
CAPTURES THE SPIRIT
OF GIVING AND
THE JOY OF CHECKING
OFF THAT LIST
You’ll discover unique and individual
gift ideas when you stroll our festive
streets. We’ve made it easy to kick
off your holiday shopping with
The Christmas Trail – six gifts
for just $30*. And because it’s
Stratford, be on the lookout
for seven swans a swimming.
Purchase your pass
at Stratford Tourism,
47 Downie Street.
visitstratford.ca
*plus HST

eatdrink
The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine
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@eatdrinkmag
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eatdrink.ca
Think Global. Read Local.
Publisher
Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca
Managing Editor Cecilia Buy – cbuy@eatdrink.ca
Food Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca
Copy Editor Kym Wolfe
Social Media Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca
Advertising Sales Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca
Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca
Stacey McDonald – stacey@eatdrink.ca
Terry-Lynn “TL” Sim – TL@eatdrink.ca
Finances
Ann Cormier – finance@eatdrink.ca
Graphics
Chris McDonell, Cecilia Buy
Writers
Jane Antoniak, Gerry Blackwell,
Tanya Chopp, Darin Cook,
Andrew Coppolino, Gary Killops,
George Macke, Nancy McSloy,
Tracy Turlin
Photographers Steve Grimes, Phong Tran
Telephone & Fax 519-434-8349
Mailing Address 525 Huron Street, London ON N5Y 4J6
Website
City Media
Printing
Sportswood Printing
OUR COVER
It’s a family affair, with
Jerrah Revilles, Brian
Sua-an and their daughter
Saisha Sua-an, at Reverie,
their “Tasting Menu
Restaurant” on Piccadilly
Street in London.
Photo by Phong Tran for
Lavery Culinary Group
© 2018 Eatdrink Inc. and the writers.
All rights reserved.
Reproduction or duplication of any material published in Eatdrink
or on Eatdrink.ca is strictly prohibited without the written permission
of the Publisher. Eatdrink has a printed circulation of 20,000
issues published six times annually in each of two markets, for a total
of 240,000 copies in print. The views or opinions expressed in the
information, content and/or advertisements published in Eatdrink
or online are solely those of the author(s) and do not necessarily
represent those of the Publisher. The Publisher welcomes submissions
but accepts no responsibility for unsolicited material.
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Contents
Issue #74 | November/December 2018
The Holiday Issue
Publisher’s Notes
Friends and Family
Eatdrink and Be Merry
By CHRIS McDONELL
6
ring in the holidays at the grand!
Restaurants
Modernist Canadian Cuisine
Reverie: A Tasting Menu Restaurant
By JANE ANTONIAK
8
An Upscale Pub with Great Food
The Church Key Bistro-Pub
By TANYA CHOPP
12
Road Trips
Take Your Time
Discovering the Pleasures of St. Marys
By NANCY McSLOY On Stage
16 this December
Culinary Retail
Our Annual Gift Guide
Ideas from the Experts
22
Wine
The Gift of Wine
Suggestions for this Holiday Season
By GARY KILLOPS
28
Beer
By Charles Dickens
Adapted by Dennis Garnhum
519.672.8800 grandtheatre.com
Cold, and Dark
Malty Darker Beers for Winter
By GEORGE MACKE
32
28
8
The BUZZ
Culinary Community Notes
36
Theatre
Scrooge Gets a Gender Flip
Christmas at The Grand Theatre
By JANE ANTONIAK
48
48
Music
Holiday Notes
Upcoming Musical Highlights
By GERRY BLACKWELL
51
Starring
Jan Alexandra
12
Recipes
Smith as Scrooge
Farm to Table
“
Celebrating Stratford Chefs School
BRILLIANT” Review & Recipe Selections by TRACY TURLIN
london free press
55
“JOYFUL”
intermission
season sponsor
55
32
title sponsor
Books
Provence Through the Years
My 25 Years in Provence
Review by DARIN COOK
60
The Lighter Side
Salvaging the Magic of Eggnog
By DARIN COOK
62
60

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
Book Now for
Christmas Day
Buffet!
JOIN US
For Our Famous All-You-Can-Eat
Dickens Lunch Buffet
November 26 to December 21
Monday to Friday 11:30am to 2pm
Call for reservations
519-430-6414
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6 | November/December 2018
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
Publisher’s Notes
Friends and Family
Eatdrink and Be Merry
By CHRIS McDONELL
The Eatdrink Holiday Issue is one of
our most fun to put together. While
we always celebrate the enjoyment
of good food and drink, there is
something special about that at this time
of year. We tend to be more intentional in
connecting with the people that are important
in our lives, whether they are work colleagues,
neighbours, or relatives. The timing is perfect
to have a family on the cover, and this one in
particular. Chef Brian Sua-an and Jerrah Revilles
brought their daughter Saisha into the portrait
with pride, a quality reflected in the work they
do with Reverie, their tasting menu restaurant.
You will read about a similar theme at The
Church Key Bistro-Pub, where Vanessa and Peter
Willis have manifested their own vision for what
a restaurant can be. May both families serve as
inspiration for heartfelt sharing of meals and
joyful celebrations for all of us.
Our regular columnists, always keeping with
the seasons, are of service again in this issue,
and our annual Gift Guide provides a bonus
slate of insightful suggestions. You will also
see dozens of businesses ready to take on some
of the pressures of the holidays for you, and
they really are the experts. Place your trust in
them with confidence. We hope you enjoy every
moment of all the festivities.
Peace,
Benmiller Inn & Spa
gather with great friends and divine dining
www.benmiller.ca | 519-524-2191 | 1-800-265-1711
81175 Benmiller Line, Goderich, N7A 3Y1

London’s New Culinary Adventure!
African Breakfast
Sundays
“Reasonably priced, fresh, well-executed
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• FAMILY FRIENDLY
• Vegetarian &
Vegan Options
• Takeout
• Catering
• Reservations
Recommended
ADDIS ABABA Restaurant
Tuesday–Sunday 11am–10pm by reservation
Closed Monday
465 Dundas Street 519 433-4222
www.tgsaddisababarestaurant.com
INTRODUCING
Serving locally
sourced food and
international flavours
with an experience
delivered by students
of Fanshawe College.
Open Monday to Friday
for lunch and dinner
130 Dundas St. London, Ontario
519-452-4433
fanshawec.ca/TheChefsTable
FOR A LIMITED TIME!
Purchase a $50 gift card at
the restaurant and receive a
free pair of wine glasses
(while supplies last).
Perfect for the holidays.

8 | November/December 2018
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
Restaurants
Modernist Canadian Cuisine
Reverie, A Tasting Menu Restaurant, in London
By JANE ANTONIAK
Dining at Reverie is the ultimate
example of a blind tasting menu
in London. While the setting is
minimalist and casual, with an
open kitchen and seating for only
12 on unadorned wooden tables, this culinary
adventure is anything but simple. Chef Brian
Sua-an is unabashedly confident in how he
and his wife, Jerrah Revilles, approach this
unique restaurant. He offers that the concept
is not for everyone and he is fine with that.
Five courses of five to seven bites per plate
are created by Chef and served to the guests
of the evening at a set price of $75. “We only
serve quality. I’d rather serve small but high
quality. I want it to be straight-forward and
also have a surprise factor when it comes out
on the plate.”
Dinner starts promptly at 7:05 with a bread
basket. Guests are to arrive at 7 pm in groups
of four or less if they want to sit together
in the small space. They pick up their own
cutlery on the way in. Table service is limited
to the serving of the plates by the couple and
a wine pairing ($50/person, or whole bottles
which guests pour for themselves). The whole
experience lasts two to three hours. “Stay as
long as you want,” says Chef.
“I didn’t want to work in a kitchen that is
all about production, without creativity, like
a factory,” he says. “So I try to be ahead of the
curve, to be as creative as possible, but not
that far off of the basics.”
So if it takes three days to create his now
trademark lemon dessert, it takes three days.
The resulting satisfaction, while a treat for
guests, is ultimately for Chef himself. “The
main concept is doing what we feel is really
nice for us. At the end of the day what matters
is we are happy with what we are putting out,”
he says.
The couple has worked hard to land in
London from the Philippines. Revilles is an
occupational therapist who gained entrance
to Canada in 2015, then sponsored her
husband and their daughter, Saisha Sua-an.
The couple had met while working as nurses.
Chef decided to switch to culinary and “set
my mind that I wanted to be the best.” He
trained with Japanese teachers who he says
taught him to be anything but ordinary. Once
in Canada, he began working at a Yorkville
pastry shop where he found a true love for
dessert creations. His lemon dessert is an
Jerrah Revilles, Brian Sua-an and their daughter Saisha
Sua-an, at Reverie on Piccadilly Street in London

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
November/December 2018 | 9
illusion; what looks like a lemon on the outside is actually
white chocolate mousse with an intense lemon confit on
the inside. “It takes three days to make and 30 seconds
to eat,” he says laughing. “It’s like life, it’s fleeting, like a
shooting star. It’s so nice and you love it and then it’s gone.
It’s not about quantity but quality.”
Clockwise from top right:
Sous vide McIntosh Farm Lamb Shoulder with Napa cabbage and pearl
onions with buttermilk and dill;
Northern Harvest Salmon cured in coffee and kombucha wrapped in
Swiss chard with edible flowers and fresh horseradish;
Fresh and candied tomatoes with chewy beets and kelp oil.
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10 | November/December 2018
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Lemon with white chocolate mousse with
yuzu, lemon gelee, lemon confit, fresh
lemon and Cuban mint (above).
Brown Butter ice cream with hazelnut and
barley koji
Chef furthered his career as a
pastry instructor at Centennial
College. He also cooked at a
French-Mediterranean restaurant
in North York. Just as the couple
was making plans to move to
London, looking for a quieter life
with less traffic, he was accepted
as an apprentice at Noma, the
renowned “best restaurant in the
world” as selected four times by the World’s
Best 50 Restaurants list. Chefs go to Noma
as unpaid apprentices, staging, to learn new
techniques. Sua-an also apprenticed at Noma’s
sister restaurant, 108 in Copenhagen. There
he developed his passion for locally sourced
ingredients that drive the tasting menu
concept he now puts forth at Reverie.
“I realized it should just be about the food.
Skip all the gimmicks. So here at Reverie, I
did away with a lot of things too. We have to
be efficient.” There is also no storage –– the
wine racks and tiny kitchen and supplies
are on full display.
While there, a delivery
of beets, carrots,
and onions arrived
in a box from Urban
Roots London. Chef
preserves vegetables
at the peak of their
flavour, and keeps them
on a rack at the side
of the restaurant. He
makes his own oils and
buttermilk and sources
ingredients regionally
Jerrah Revilles and Brian
Sua-an working in Reverie’s
open kitchen

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
or from Toronto and Niagara. He only serves
biodynamic wines that contain no sulfites
or additives, such as A Pét-Nat, Nebulous
by Rosewood, or 3XP Chardonnay, wild
fermented by Nicholas Pearce. Otherwise, he
offers guests water (no ice) and sometimes a
house made kombucha.
Chef does enjoy talking to guests once
the meal ends, often explaining his cooking
techniques. For example, his McIntosh Farms
lamb leg is cooked for 24 hours and served
confit with buttermilk and a dill oil sauce. His
“not your average beet” is cooked for an hour,
dehydrated overnight, then rehydrated with
lemon balm to one-third its original size. Chef
describes it as having the rich texture of meat.
He delights in this surprise for guests who are
often shocked to realize it is a beet.
He does try to accommodate nut-free and
gluten-free diets. However he says that vegan
is a challenge for his tasting menu as he relies
on butter. Despite these challenges, he is
seeing a high percentage of repeat customers
and private bookings since he opened in 2017,
including other chefs from around the region
and guests from Toronto. “It’s 100 percent
what we want and we won’t compromise.
It’s just Plan A and if we fail, we fail. I would
rather fail then succeed and be unhappy.”
And what does the future hold? Chef hints
he would love to start selling custom cakes,
offer cooking classes, and possibly venture
into some pop-ups. His adventure in London
is evolving and by his own admission, he
hates being bored. Clearly, Reverie is anything
but boring.
Reverie
1-208 Piccadilly Street, London
519-914-6595
reverierestaurant.ca
thursday to saturday evenings at 7pm
Private group bookings available on request.
JANE ANTONIAK is a regular contributor to Eatdrink.
She is also Manager, Communications & Media Relations,
at King’s University College in London.
at The Market at Western Fair
on Weekends!
Photography by Phong Tran for Lavery Culinary Group.

12 | November/December 2018
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
Restaurants
An Upscale Pub with Great Food
The Church Key Bistro-Pub Ups the Game in London
By TANYA CHOPP
Vanessa and Peter Willis have the
energy of a couple of kids. Engaged
in playful banter while sitting sideby-side,
they’re quick-witted and
easily moved to laughter as they describe how
their dream of owning a restaurant became
manifest in The Church Key Bistro-Pub, now
a perennially popular downtown fixture. Both
the labour and the love are evident.
“The dream we had was an upscale pub
with great food,” Vanessa says. “About 20
years ago a revolution was happening in the
United Kingdom, the birthplace of the pub,
where establishments were moving in exactly
that direction. It seemed that at that time
the entire world started to take food a whole
lot more seriously, and everyone started
stepping up their game. The gastropub was
born. We love traditional pubs, but we wanted
something different. A casual environment
where women could also feel comfortable and
Owners Peter and Vanessa Willis, at top, established
The Church Key Bistro-Pub in 2009. The courtyard patio,
left, is beside the building, offering a relaxed urban vibe.
Inside, diners enjoy a comfortable casual environment.

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
November/December 2018 | 13
in their element. I thought that we all deserved something
a little bit better, and I was really passionate about it.”
After working in the restaurant and bar industry for
decades (combined), Vanessa and Peter spent almost two
years in the hunt for a location of their own. On a lucky
break, Peter’s realty network offered him a tip on a site
that had just became available. “We were the first to see it
and we knew within five minutes that it was perfect,” Peter
says. “Right size, right location, by the theater, downtown,”
adds Vanessa. “That was it.”
But while the choice of location was easy, not every
other decision fell into place so effortlessly. The name was
proposed by Peter, but met with uncertainty from Vanessa.
“A church key is a slang term for a bottle opener,” he
explains. “But she wasn’t so sure that people would get it,
so she polled everyone for months on whether they knew
what it was.”
“It was weeks,” Vanessa clarifies with a smile. “But I
found that it was a 50/50 split and so I just decided — let’s
roll with it.”
Peter’s certainty that the clever name was perfect for
the restaurant — situated between two of London’s largest
churches, with local beer on tap — appears to have been a
great instinct. But the memorable name is just one of the
many magic elements that The Church Key has woven into
its fibres.
In a much more evident fashion is the establishment’s
culture, which includes a strong foundation in customer
service (you’ll always be promptly and warmly greeted), a
strong camaraderie between front and back of house, and
a playlist that’s “handcrafted” and curated by none other
than Peter himself and has become a signature part of
the welcoming atmosphere. Inside and out, The Church
Key feels approachable, inclusive and timelessly classy all
at once. “People always comment on the ambiance,” says
Vanessa. “They say that it’s beautiful and comfortable,
upscale but homey. And people love the music.”
But of course, they love the food too. So much so, that
it’s become difficult for the team to decide which dishes to
swap out when changing the menu. As much as 80 percent
of the menu is comprised of fan favourites.
“You’ll hear about it loudly if you take one away,” says
Peter. “The [Church Key] burger is untouchable and so is
the corned beef and cabbage, which is made right from a
brisket, as well as the smoked mushroom and parmesan
dip. The warm duck confit salad has been on the menu
since the beginning. The list goes on and on.”
“We’re so grateful to Mike [Chef Michael Anglestad],”
says Vanessa. “This [success] is as much his as it is ours.
He was so integral in the creation [of The Church Key],
the original menu and 90 percent of the dishes since we
opened. They’re all his — all his talent, his ideas. And we’re
lucky to have an amazing team of chefs working for us.”
Pastry Chef Cliff Briden has also been a part of The
Church Key since the start. The brunch, for which the menu
changes each week, has become legendary under his charge.
There’s something for every appetite:
(from the top) Smoked Salmon Wrapped
Scallops, Ploughman’s Plate, and Poached
Salmon Roulade

14 | November/December 2018
Baked Mussels, Jerked Beef Skewers,
and Duck Confit Salad (a permanent
fixture on the menu at The Church Key
Bistro-Pub)
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
“Our two co-sous chefs, the partners in crime — Bre
Reynolds and Toby Turcott — need to be mentioned
too,” states Vanessa. “They’re truly the nuts and bolts of
the kitchen.”
What this cohesive team is turning out from the kitchen
is an intoxicating mix of comfort and exotism. Although
the menu (which is changed twice a year) is rooted in
traditional British pub cuisine, The Church Key has a
reputation for its creative addition of game.
“About seven years ago we took a research trip to
Chicago to gather ideas, and noticed a lot of game meat.
I’d always loved rabbit and was curious about venison,
so I talked to Chef. We suspected that it might not go
over well in the London market, but we put rabbit on
and it sold out in a night,” Vanessa describes. “It was an
overwhelming success.
“Now we have an item on our dinner menu (not at
lunch) called ‘Game of the Week’ that reads: ‘Every
week our chef will create a unique dish that showcases
a different variety of game meat. Ask your server about
tonight’s special preparation.’ Our original plan was
to run the same type of game all week, with different
preparations, as the menu description implies. However,
this item is so popular that we are often forced to switch
the game variety several times a week. It’s a supply and
demand thing.”
“People call ahead to see what it’s going to be,” adds
Peter. “We try to keep it flowing, ensure there’s variety.”
Over the years The Church Key has served up a mix of
game that ranges from the exotic, like kangaroo, ostrich,
and wild boar, to more familiar such as buffalo, elk, bison,
venison and duck.
“We do source locally where we can,” Vanessa says of
the game’s origin. “There’s a really good buffalo farm close
to London, and we’ve also gotten local duck, but the best
venison on the planet comes from New Zealand.”
“In terms of other local sourcing though,” she adds,
“We tend to do a lot of that for our Sunday brunch
menu. Soiled Reputation, outside of Stratford, is just one
example of many local suppliers.”
Patrons of the Church Key also appreciate another
locally sourced point of enjoyment: the beer. “We have a
section on the menu that’s all London beers,” says Paul.
“There are half a dozen or so breweries in town now.
Everyone gets about three months on the tap and a
presence in the fridge.”
If you decide to come on down to The Church Key for
a beer, a burger, or more, chances are you’ll be served
by Jess Broadfoot during the day, or by Paul Markovich
over the evening. The two have been at The Church for
nine and seven years respectively. The longevity of their
time there is not only a testament to their personal
commitment to excellence in service, but also to the
culture of the restaurant.
“We’re a real family,” says Vanessa. “What has surprised
me the most about owning The Church Key is the feedback

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
[from patrons]. The feeling of gratitude that I
have, that’s constant.”
“Owning [The Church Key] has exceeded
our expectation,” Peter adds. “The crowd that
comes here is just such a delight, and it makes
everything so easy and worthwhile. People
who are celebrating their milestones choose to
come and do it here. I wanted that to happen,
but it’s humbling. You hope for the best, but
it’s gone so over the moon. It’s so much bigger
than us.”
The Church Key Bistro-Pub
476 Richmond Street, London
519-936-0960
thechurchkey.ca
tuesday 11:30 am–10pm
wednesday & thursday 11:30 am–11 pm
friday & saturday 11:30 am–12 am
sunday 11:00 am–10 pm
TANYA CHOPP is a local writer and communications
professional.
WHOLESALE
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Merry Makers Fair
— A Local, Handmade Event
Sunday, November 11, 11am–4pm
The Merry Makers Fair mission is simple: to
inspire and encourage up-and-coming small,
100% handmade businesses and connect
them to conscious consumers in London. You'll
find some of the best handmade shopping
around, from Art, Home Decor, Jewelry,
Clothing, Bath and Beauty products.
Admission is free and underground parking is
free upon validation (2 hours).
Fibre Art Festival and Sale
Friday, November 16, 10am–5pm
Saturday, November 17, 8:30am–4:30pm
Sunday, November 18, 11am–3pm
Join us upstairs on the Mezzanine for demonstrations
and displays of Weaving, Spinning, Rug
Hooking, Lace making, Sashiko, Basketry, Felting
& Penny Rugs. Enjoy 2 Hours FREE parking on
Saturday and Sunday, upon validation.
Christmas Merry Makers Fair
Sunday, December 16, 11am–4pm
Another 100% handmade event held
in the heart of the Forest City. You'll
find some of the best handmade
shopping around, from Art, Home
Decor, Jewelry, Clothing, Bath and
Beauty products — everything
you need to finish your
Christmas list, and support
local at the same time!
For more event info visit coventmarket.com or our Facebook page
TM
Market Hours
Monday to Saturday
Mezzanine & Restaurant Hours Differ

16 | November/December 2018
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Road Trips
Take Your Time
Discovering the Pleasures of a Small Town in St. Marys
By NANCY McSLOY
While attending an event in St.
Marys, Ontario, I decided that
this beautiful town merited
a longer and more leisurely
visit. On a bright, sunny Saturday morning
in October we drove northeast from London,
with a list of places to visit. The short drive
was enhanced by the masses of spectacular
colour as the leaves were turning to their
autumn colours of orange, crimson and gold.
Our first stop was the farmers’ market,
which is open from May until October. At
Breadtopia, which has a wide selection of
breads and pastries, we bought freshly baked
ginger snaps, red onion and aged cheddar
focaccia, and loaves of Stonetown and Thames
Grain bread. We left the market laden as
well with fresh-from-the-farm vegetables,
delectable pastries from an Amish family’s
booth, and some Middle Eastern treats
from The Syrian Baker, known for baklava,
sambosaks (samosas), falafels and hummus.
Next stop was McCully’s Hill Farm Market.
At the store entrance we were met by the
aroma of freshly-baked apple and pumpkin
pies. The huge variety of baked goods, maple
syrup, fresh local meat and cheeses, homemade
pickles, jams and preserves made for another
shopping spree. After a tour of the barn, where
we met the farm animals, we were treated to
Discover the culinary and cultural diversity of the
farmers’ market in St. Marys

18 | November/December 2018
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a sampling of Fiege’s Gourmet Dressings and
Sauces, which led to yet more shopping.
One can’t visit St. Marys without checking out
the local cheeses. Hans and Jolanda Weber, with
Swiss cheese maker Ramon Eberle, have brought
the art of cheese making to St. Marys by opening
Stonetown Artisan Cheese. Our guide gave us an
interesting and informative tour of the facility,
and we enjoyed samples of some of Stonetown’s
14 different curds and cheeses. It is no surprise
that Stonetown is a two-time award winner at
the Royal Agricultural Winter Fair.
Agritourism is alive and well in St. Marys.
Transvaal Farm Guest House is a two-storey
house with a living room and fully equipped
kitchen on the main floor and two bedrooms
upstairs. The hosts, Cindy Taylor and Scott
McLauchlan, make their guests feel at home. Eggs
are there for the gathering, visits to the barn are
encouraged, and the vegetable garden is there, in
season, for guests. Transvaal Farm is also home to
another artisanal cheese maker, C’est Bon Cheese
Ltd. Cindy also operates Kitchen Smidgen, a small
bakery on Water Street in St. Marys. There’s a
patio where you can enjoy your treats in nice
weather, overlooking the Thames.
Troyer’s Spices on Queen St. is filled with over
100 quality herbs and spices from around the
world and is a utopia for chefs, bakers and home
cooks. Over 55 herb and spice combinations are
handcrafted in the store, and are displayed in
large glass jars. You can bring your own spice
containers or purchase items pre-packaged.
Other quality goods available include Aunt
Milly’s Soup Mixes, oils, vinegars, vanilla
products, local honey, organic maple syrup, and
Urban Hippie Granola.
Of course we had to check out The Chocolate
Factory to try the homemade truffles. It was a
challenge to choose between truffles, smoothies,
chocolates and the specialty Halloween creations.
It was time for a coffee break, so a stop at Stonetown
Coffee was in order. The coffee was great and the
homemade pastries and cakes looked mouth-watering (but
I was full from all the sampling earlier). The atmosphere
was friendly and relaxed with people visiting amongst
themselves while others relaxed in armchairs by the
windows. Stonetown Coffee serves breakfast and lunch,
and gluten-free items.
After our check-in at the award-winning Westover
Inn our hostess Kaitlynn gave us a tour of the historic
property. Built in 1867 by the Hutton Brothers, The
From meeting some of the animals at Transvaal Farm Guest house, to
exploring the shops and cafés in town, you’ll find plenty to do while
discovering the small town of St. Marys.

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
The elegant dining room at Westover Inn
Manor sits on 19 landscaped acres, along
with two other buildings that also provide
accommodations. The property was bought
by the Roman Catholic Church in the 1930’s
and was operated as a seminary. The property
was sold again 1985, and after two years of
renovations the Westover Inn began receiving
guests. The walls are lined with hospitality
awards and it is apparently one of Christopher
Plummer’s favorite inns.
For dinner we headed off to the Wildstone
Bar and Grill at Stone Willow Inn. The
atmosphere was inviting and comfortable,
November/December 2018 | 19
and the service friendly and professional. The
chicken breast with lemon grass, mango and
strawberry reduction, served with rice and
vegetables and topped with toasted coconut,
was cooked to flavourful perfection. The
evening special was prime rib, cooked to order.
We topped off the evening with specialty
coffees and shared a piece of cheesecake with
fresh fruit. Wildstone Bar and Grill offers a
selection of regional wines and craft beers.
Breakfast at the Westover was an early
morning pleasure. My order of smoked
salmon on a house-made mustard seed bagel
with cream cheese and arugula was served
with a fresh fruit salad. The perfect ending to
a perfect weekend.
For years our vacations were long trips;
I wanted to see the world. Now I am loving
the short weekend jaunts and day trips. It is
amazing what you can find close to home.
NANCY LOUCKS-McSLOY is a freelance writer who
loves cooking and entertaining. Her work has appeared
in Chicken Soup for the Soul, The Fur-Bearing Trout and
Other True Tales of Canadian Life, McLean’s, Vitality and
many other publications.
FRESH gift ideas yule love
Select from over 70 flavours of oils and balsamics.
Sample the freshest oils from across the globe, paired with savoury
white & dark balsamic vinegars from Modena, Italy.
Personally bottled to suit your individual taste.
Gift
Cards
Corporate
Gifts
Sample
Packs
Custom
Gift Baskets
Stocking
Stuffers
The
Pristine
live
Est. 2012
884 Adelaide Street N. | London | 519-433-4444
www.thepristineolive.ca

Stratford is more than
great theatre
visitstratford.ca
um
A restaurant inspired by
local ingredients.
Run by workers.
Owned by workers.
Shared by the Community.
Open Thursday through Monday
Reservations Recommended
64 Wellington St, Stratford
redrabbitresto.com
519.305.6464
@redrabbitresto
global tapas with local ingredients
fresh cocktails
Perfect for dinner, drinks and long conversations
Thursday through Sunday from 5pm
85 Downie St, Stratford
(next to Avon Theatre)
519.305.8585
85Downie.com
DINNER SERIES
October-March
Calendar, menus and
reservations online
StratfordChefsSchool
@StratfordChef
OPEN KITCHEN
Hands-on classes for the
dedicated home cook.
Registration online
stratfordchef.com

“A fun place to shop
for housewares and gifts!”
Chalet Chic Serveware,
a cozy feel for your holiday table.
WATSON’S
CHELSEA BAZAAR
84 Ontario St. Stratford
watsonsofstratford.com
519-273-1790
BOOK YOUR
HOLIDAY
PARTY
WITH US
With custom menus from both kitchen
and bar, we will work together to create
the perfect atmosphere for anything
from a casual cocktail party to a
formal seated dinner.
30 Ontario Street, Stratford, ON
www.themillstone.ca
themillstoneON
(519)273.5886

22 | November/December 2018
Culinary Retail
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
Gift
Guide
OUR ANNUAL
It really IS
better to
give than
to receive
—when you find
the perfect gift that
is warmly received,
and you haven't felt
caught up in shopping mall
madness. To help you achieve this end, we've
polled a fine range of independent retailers —
the real shopping experts — for suggestions
for the special people in your life. Whether
you're looking for a big present for someone
close to your heart, or a small gift for a
hostess or your friend at work, here are some
new as well as tried-and-true suggestions
from the experts. Happy Shopping!
The Pristine Olive has come up
with many delicious ways to help
customers stuff their Christmas
stockings (with over 60 flavours
of oils and balsamics). This year,
owner Jamie Griffiths has created
The Pristine Olive’s Travel
Pack. Keep it “fresh” wherever you
go with a zippered padded pouch,
including two 60 ml bottles, and a
stainless steel funnel. Fill them up
with your favourite fresh olive oils
and balsamic vinegars and hit the
road! If you’re travelling, or just
heading out for dinner, this pack is
your perfect travel companion, or
a delicious gift idea for everyone
on your list. $14.95 The Pristine
Olive • 884 Adelaide Street N.,
London • www.thepristineolive.com
• 519-433-4444
A range of bath and beauty products might be
expected at a lavender farm shop, but Steed &
Company Lavender
also offers a number
of culinary items. In
limited supply, the
Steed & Company
Lavender Farm
Honey comes from
their own bees at the
farm. “It’s a delicate
blend of nectar from our
lavender and various local
woodland flowers,” says
proprietor Suzanne Steed.
$8.25 Steed & Company
Lavender • 47589 Sparta Line, RR#5 Aylmer •
www.steedandcompany.com • 519-494-5525
Gerhard Metzger’s Christmas-themed salamis
are available at Metzger
Meats in Hensall or at The
Village Meat Shop at The
Market at Western Fair.
These festive salamis are
perfect for gift baskets and
stocking stuffers for the
meat-lovers on your list.
$7.99–$9.99 Metzger Meat
Products • 180 Brock Ave,
Hensall • www.metzgermeat.
com • 519-262-3130
s

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
Few activities are as civilized and restorative
as the taking of Cream Tea, a form of British
afternoon tea (a light
meal), consisting
of tea enjoyed with
a combination of
scones, clotted cream,
and jam. Introduce
this tradition to
someone you care
about with Ilderton’s
Village Teapot’s
Cream Tea Gift
Basket , including
delicious tea, a jar
of clotted cream, local jam, and fresh scones.
$35.00, cello-wrapped with a ribbon.
The Village Teapot • 13257 Ilderton Rd, Ilderton •
www.thevillageteapot.ca • 519-298-8327
These are heady days
(pun intended) for craft
beer lovers, with so
many delicious ways to
explore the world of beer
from our local brewers.
Amongst other seasonal
options, Anderson Craft
Ales is offering a limitededition
2018 Holiday
Belgian in 750 mL
bottles. Also available is
a very limited amount
of the 2017 Holiday
Belgian, now aged for
one year. The delectable
flavours of raisin, plum and light spice in this
beer are enhanced with aging, but it can also be
enjoyed immediately after purchase. $10.00
Anderson Craft Ales • 1030 Elias St, London • www.
andersoncraftales.ca • 506-253-9440
Stuff your stocking and stock your fridge
with the gift of holiday cheer from
Black Swan Brewing Co. Their wellbalanced
Porter (ABV 5.3%, IBU 45)
is heavy on dark malt with notes of
chocolate and coffee. Or try their
English Pale Ale (ABV 5%, IBU
30), a traditional British-style
beer made with English Noble
hops and eight varieties of malt.
Now available in 355 mL bottles!
Black Swan Brewing • 144 Downie St,
Stratford • www.blackswanbrewing.
ca • 519-814-SWAN (7926)

24 | November/December 2018
Watson’s Chelsea Bazaar is a long-standing Stratford
favourite, with two floors displaying an eclectic range of
goods from around the world. You’ll find a fine selection
of Emma Bridgewater Pottery from England, including
festive mugs. There’s all
manner of Christmas
caroling, capering and
cavorting in this snowy
lantern-lit woodland
scene . Dishwasher &
microwave safe. Mugs
each $39.00 Watson’s
Chelsea Bazaar • 84
Ontario Street, Stratford
• watsonsofstratford.com
• 519-273-1790
Nestled among the rolling hills
outside Woodstock, Gunn’s Hill
Artisan Cheese produces an
impressive and delicious variety
of Swiss-influenced cheese
with milk from the family dairy
farm. Select from ready-made
options, or create a customized
gift basket to meet your specific
needs and budget. Choose
from a suitably-sized basket,
gift box, or this heftier Gunn’s
Hill Bushel Basket, that
includes 200 g each of Gunn’s
Hill Handeck Cheese, 5 Brothers
Cheese, Flavoured Oxford’s
Harvest, another Flavoured Oxford’s Harvest, and either
Beau’s Abbey or Darkside of the Moo, along with a box
of crackers from Barrie Brothers, creatively arranged and
cello-wrapped in a wooden bushel basket. $50.00
Gunn’s Hill Artisan Cheese • 445172 Gunns Hill Road,
Woodstock • www.gunnshillcheese.ca • 519-424-4024
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
Sarnia’s
Kitchen Widgets,
established in 1995 to
provide high quality kitchen
tools and houseware products
from around the globe, is
featuring a hot item for
entertaining. “Don’t just host
the party … join it!” Reinvented
for the modern era, a Raclette
Grill is the perfect addition
to your next dinner party or
social gathering. Designed for
several people to cook at once,
these indoor party grills offer
unique tabletop entertainment,
healthy preparation, and
mouth-watering results. The
cooking surface at the top offers
room for grilling, and eight
dishes underneath allow you
to melt cheese or warm sauces,
for unique combinations. Make
traditional Swiss recipes, or
create your own. $149.99
Kitchen Widgets • 129 Mitton St S,
Sarnia • www.kitchen-widgets.com
• 519-332-0880
Established in 1895, Bradshaws remains one of
Canada’s great stores. The emphasis is on pieces that
are design-driven “lifetime” purchases and unique and
innovative products. Such as Seedlip — The World’s
First Non-Alcoholic Spirit — which answers the
question, “What to drink when you’re not drinking.”®
Choose from three unique and complex blends: Spice
94, Garden 108, and Grove 42 and create non-alcoholic
cocktails for the designated driver in your life. Simply
mix Seedlip with quality FeverTree tonic or create
more sophisticated non-alcoholic cocktails by following
incredible recipes on their website. $39.95 Bradshaws •
129 Ontario St, Stratford • www.bradshawscanada.com • 519-271-6283

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
November/December 2018 | 25
Featherfields is an
inspiring destination
for distinctive garden
décor and specialty
gifts, like this
beautiful stoneware
Butterfly Puddler
featuring an attractive
thistle design. To
attract butterflies, add
sand and a teaspoon
of water to its shallow
well of recycled glass. Butterflies seek the moisture as
well as the minerals left behind as the water evaporates.
Handmade in Ontario from high-fired stoneware,
it’s entirely weatherproof. Bring nature home for the
holidays! $48.00 Featherfields • 1570 Hyde Park Rd #5,
London • www.featherfields.com • 519-474-1165
Whether you’re shopping for a craft
beer lover or a fashionista, Cowbell
Brewing Co. has your feet covered!
Get the Fancy Feet Variety Pack
featuring four fun styles — stripes,
polka dots, argyle and Cowbells.
Available at the Cowbell General Store
in Blyth and online. Cowbell Brewing
Co. • 40035 Blyth Rd, Blyth • www.
cowbellbrewing.com • 519-523-4724
Patrick’s Beans offers consistently high quality organic
coffee blends. Ethically-sourced beans are roasted in
small batches, then blended together to attain tailormade
tastes and complexities not found in single varietal
selections. A number of popular blends are available, with
custom blends for the true aficionado. Check Patrick’s
Facebook page for locations. From $15 for a 1 pound bag.
Patrick’s Beans • www.patricksbeans.com • 226-378-5100
National
Houseware
Retailer of
the Year
TUES–FRI 9–5 • SAT 9–3
Knives • Baking • Cookware • Dinnerware • Widgets • Canadiana
129 South Mitton St. Sarnia ON 519-332-0880 kitchen-widgets.com

26 | November/December 2018
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
Does anything inspire
warmer feelings than a
freshly brewed cup of
espresso? Named one of
Southwestern Ontario’s great
coffee shops, Locomotive
Espresso has been gathering
loyal patrons for three years
in London, and they’d love to
inspire reuse with KeepCup
Brew Cups. Barista-designed
Stonetown Artisan Cheese in St. Marys and BPS & BPS-free, they
has established a strong reputation retail several different cups
for its award-winning cheeses. Hans designed for use under any
and Jolanda Weber immigrated from espresso machine. Baristas
Switzerland in 1996 and now their brew straight into it. Partner
sons look after the dairy farm while the KeepCup with a stainless
they tend to the cheese. They also sell steel reusable straw with cleaning brush. Your
quality cheese boards and a variety gift giving can reduce the consequences of wasteful
of gift boxes and baskets. The Large convenience behaviors. Brew Cups $18-38, Straw $7.75
Stonetown Gift Box, includes 170 Locomotive Espresso • 408 Pall Mall St, London • www.
g each of their popular Baby Swiss, locomotiveespresso.com • 519-601-3896
Homecoming, Wildwood, Grand
Trunk, Muskoka Bliss, Farmstead Emmental, Game Changer, and
Kalamata Kiss. $49.50 Stonetown Artisan Cheese • 5021 Perth Line 8, St.
Marys • www.stonetowncheese.com • 519-229-6856
Open Sundays
Until Christmas!
Destination for the food lover
Featuring specialty foods,
kitchenwares, tablewares,
cooking classes and gift baskets.
115 King St., London Ontario
jillstable.ca 519-645-1335
growers & creators of fine lavender products
DISCOVER
Steed & Company Lavender, part of a
45-acre horse farm just outside of Sparta
INDULGE
in our unique handcrafted lavender products
ESCAPE
in the wonderful scent and
calming powers of lavender
519-494-5525
47589 Sparta Line, Sparta
buds@steedandcompany.com
Open Wed–Sat 10-5; Sun 12–4
Mother’s Day to Dec. 19
PLUS June–Labour Day: Tues 10-5
www.steedandcompany.com
Join us for our
Christmas
Open House
November
24 & 25

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
Jill’s Table offers a wide variety of specialty food items,
kitchen gadgets, cookware, bakeware and fabulous
cooking classes. Jill is featuring La Fabrick Whiskey
Barrel-aged Maple Syrup this season. Smoky
and sweet like s’mores on the campfire, this stellar
syrup is produced by the Masse family in the
Eastern Townships of Quebec. Category 1 amber
maple syrup is aged in Rye whiskey barrels for 4–6
months, creating the distinctive flavour, with hints
of brown sugar, vanilla and a touch of baking spice.
This would make a terrific hostess or corporate gift
for the holiday season. $29.99 Jill’s Table • 115 King
Street, London • jillstable.ca • 519-645-1335
November/December 2018 | 27
A gift certificate from a
unique store or a fabulous local
restaurant can be a reflection
of your good taste and the
interests of the recipient.
They are available from most
businesses, in denominations
that fit your budget.
$100 Value
Considerate guests are always looking for appropriate hostess
gifts . Some people bring wine. But why not bring a Homemade
Lasagna from Marshall’s Pasta Mill? Marshall’s is a family-owned
and operated restaurant/catering/retail store of homemade
Italian food. In addition to outstanding lasagna
that serves eight (meat, roasted vegetable
or seafood), Jodie and Blake Marshall offer
a variety of fresh pastas, sauces, Portuguese
breads, prepared meals, soups and meatballs.
Gift Certificates are also available. From 36.00
Marshall’s Pasta Mill • 580 Adelaide St N, London •
www.marshallspastacatering.ca • 519-672-7827
Spice Up the Holidays!
Christmas Open House
Nov. 14 (Port)
Nov. 15 (Wortley)
Limited Edition
Emile Henry
UP TO
50% OFF
Holiday Spice Collections
In Store Specials & More!
Give the Gift of Nature!
2018
Wild Bird Store
of the Year
peppertreespice.com
1-141 Wortley Rd., London 519-601-6610
223 Colborne St., Port Stanley 519-782-7800
The Market at Western Fair, 900 King St. London
Birdfeeding Experts • All non-GMO Birdseed
Garden Gifts • Holiday Décor
HOME • GARDEN • GIFTS

28 | November/December 2018
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
Wine
The Gift of Wine
Some Suggestions for This Holiday Season
by GARY KILLOPS
Giving a bottle of wine as a gift over
the holiday season is always a
great way to leave an impression,
but sometimes selecting the right
wine is not easy. You want the recipient to
appreciate and enjoy your thoughtful offering,
so here are some tips to help you choose.
Knowing what kind of wine recipients
might like can be helpful, but often you may
not know if they prefer red or white wine or
sweeter or dryer styles. If you know what they
favour, great. If not, don’t worry too much
about it; wine is a gift that can always be
(shhhhh) regifted.
A general rule of etiquette to keep in mind
when bringing wine as a host or hostess gift
is that there is no expectation that the bottle
be opened that evening. Therefore if you have
selected a white wine you do not need to chill
it before bringing it. On the other hand, if you
have been invited for a dinner and are asked
to bring a bottle of wine it is expected that the
wine you bring will be opened, so chilling the
white wine is appropriate.
Around the holidays many Ontario wineries
offer gift baskets that they have assembled
with their wines and other local Ontario
products. The baskets are often impressive
and while they can often be a little pricey they
can save you time should you want to give
such a gift.
For those who would like to include a bottle
in their own gift baskets, or are looking for a
few Ontario wines that will make sensational
gifts, here are some suggestions.
Westcott Estate Pinot Noir 2015
(Vintages #427500, $29.95)
Ontario’s cool climate is perfect
for top notch elegant pinot noir.
Westcott’s vineyards are located on
south-facing slopes in Niagara’s
Vinemount Ridge appellation
resulting in longer sun exposure
and riper fruit at harvest. This
wine is a fine example of a
medium-bodied, dry red wine with
red berry fruits, anise, mushroom,
earthy and smoky notes.

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
November/December 2018 | 29
Taste the elements.
1709 Front Road, St. Williams, Norfolk County, ON
Tastings, Tours & Events
burningkilnwinery.ca 519.586.9858
@burningkilnwine

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
Alton Farms
EST A TE WINERY
HO HO HO
Merlot
POUR
THE
WINE TASTINGS, EVENTS,
TOURS, OUTDOOR PATIO,
WOOD-FIRED PIZZA OVEN
SARNIA
LAKE
HURON
7
21
Grand
Bend
Forest
Aberarder Line
21
402
London
77 km
5547 Aberarder Line, Plympton-Wyoming
519-899-2479 • altonfarmsestatewinery.com
Weather Rock Cabernet Franc
(LCBO #558809, $14.10) While some
of the 2016 vintage may still be
found on the shelf at the LCBO, the
Ontario cabernet franc was flying
out of the store so quickly the
2017 vintage was released earlier
than expected to meet demand.
It’s a medium-bodied wine, dry
and loaded with red and black
berry fruits. The 2017 vintage has a
little more tannins, perfect to pair
with rare and medium
rare steaks. Weather
Rock is a virtual winery
produced at Harrow’s Oxley
Estate Winery and wines under
the Weather Rock label are only
available at the LCBO.
Colchester Ridge Estate
Winery “CREW” Merlot 2016
(VINTAGES #310532, $17.95)
Merlot has traditionally been
used as a blending grape in
Bordeaux but in many new world

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
wine regions it is often bottled as a single
varietal. CREW’s merlot is its best offering to
date of this grape, and is offered at an insanely
cheap price point that will stand up to many
$40 - $60 California merlots. This is a fullbodied,
dry, complex velvety wine with fruit
forward blackberry, black plum, black cherry
notes, with cedar and tobacco characteristics.
Exceptional value, buy this one while you can!
Mastronardi Estate Winery Syrah 2016
(VINTAGES #581223, $24.95)
Syrah, also known as shiraz, is made
from the same grape and can be
very different in style depending
on where it is grown. Shiraz is
commonly identified as the style
of wine produced in Australia,
ripe and full-bodied, while syrah
is associated with a lighter and
leaner red wine. Mastronardi’s
syrah is medium plus in body,
dry, black fruit and a hint of
cracked black pepper. Give this
wine as a gift to someone who
enjoys a glass of wine around the
fireplace on one of Ontario’s cold
winter nights.
Casa-Dea Reserve Chardonnay 2015
(VINTAGES #546812, $26.95) Some
of the best Ontario chardonnays I
have tasted were from Prince Edward
County. The limestone-rich soil
found in many of the vineyards
in this region offer ideal varietal
expression. Medium body, dry,
with ripe green apple and pear
fruit notes balanced with light
vanilla and butterscotch nuances
from time spent in French oak
barrels. Chardonnay leads the
way in production as Ontario
VQA’s single varietal wine.
GARY KILLOPS is a CAPS Certified Sommelier who
loves to talk, taste, and write about wine. He shares his
tasting notes on EssexWineReview.com
Time to plan your next
Road Trip to Lambton County!
Our new drink trail allows you to sip
and savour in any order you prefer.
Refined Fool
Twin Pines Orchards
& Cider House
Alton Farms Estate Winery
Widder Station Golf,
Grill & Tap House
Refined Fool (2 locations)
Stonepicker Brewing Co.
Widder Station Golf, Grill & Tap House
Munro Honey & Meadery
Twin Pines Orchards & Cider House
Alton Farms Estate Winery
Dark Horse Estate Winery
Smackwater Tours –Transportation Service
Download the trail map at
www.ontbluecoast.com
1 800 265 0316

32 | November/December 2018
Beer
Cold, and Dark
Malty Darker Beers, for Winter
by GEORGE MACKE
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
Goodbye light lagers. Adios radlers
and beers that taste like ice
cream. So long, fruit beers. As the
thermometer drops and the sun goes
down earlier, it’s time to restock the beer fridge
with malty, darker beers to suit the season.
Here are 12 stellar selections from
Southwestern Ontario brewers. Most will
require a personal visit to purchase at the
brewery’s in-house beer store. More and
more, craft breweries are also launching
online stores offering beer delivered to your door.
No Marzen for Eror by Innocente
Brewing Company, Waterloo. Misspelling
“error” is no mistake and neither is this
Oktoberfest lager. The marzen style of beer
originated in Bavaria and is
traditionally associated
with the change of
seasons. Innocente’s
version is copper in
colour, not as dark as
one might expect, and
has a hint of citrus hop
flavour.
Nighthawk Weizenbock by
Toboggan Brewing, London. More
inspiration from the beers of
Bavaria, this time from the
fermenters at London’s
popular Richmond
Row craft brewery.
Weizenbocks, dubbed
by some as winter wheat
beers, have been brewed
since the early 1900s and
that the style isn’t more widely known (and
brewed) is mysterious. The Toboggan take is
a deep red with aromas of banana and clove.
CRAFT BEER
MADE IN CHATHAM
27 Adelaide st. south . Chatham Ont
TAP ROOM . BEER SHOP . EVENTS . SNACKS
sonsofkent.com 519-354-BEER (2337)
now available at the LCBO!

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
Nighthawk is a wonderful fall beer choice best
enjoyed with patience, from a tulip glass. It’s a
low 14 IBU but a strong 8 per cent alcohol.
Black Coal Stout by Railway City
Brewing, St. Thomas. A seriously good stout
from the 10-year-old St. Thomas
brewery best known for Dead
Elephant IPA, Black Coal
almost lives up to its name in
terms of colour — I’d call it
dark brown. Rich in coffee and
dark chocolate aromas. And
is that a hint of rye bread?
Named for St. Thomas’ railway
heritage, Black Coal is a coldweather
reward for a day’s
work well done.
Ghost Cow by Wellington Brewery,
Guelph. Spicy
and dark, anyone?
Ghost Cow is a milk
stout brewed with
ghost, habanero,
and Scotch bonnet
November/December 2018 | 33
peppers as well as cocoa. It clocks in at a
pleasant 7.1 per cent alcohol.
McNall’s Mission by Cowbell
Brewing, Blyth. One of a series of beers
named for the colourful
characters of Blyth, this is a
honey brown named in honour
of George McNall, who served
in both the First and Second
World Wars. One hundred
years ago McNall received
the Military Medal for his
devotion to duty as a scout.
Now available at the LCBO,
McNall’s Mission incorporates
sweet, savoury brown malts
with local honey. Cowbell has
been brewing it since 2017 and selling it on
site and at craft-friendly pubs. It’s entry
onto LCBO shelves is certain to accelerate its
popularity while honouring a local veteran.
Hans and Franz by Forked River,
London. A German pilsner, Hans and Franz
strikes a nice balance that works well with
#ItsWhatWeDrink
NOW AVAILABLE IN 355 mL BOTTLES
144 DOWNIE ST, STRATFORD, ON 519 • 814 • 7926
BLACKSWANBREWING.CA @BLACKSWANBREWINGCO

34 | November/December 2018
fare such as bratwurst. It’s not
at the LCBO, Beer Store, or
grocery stores so you’ll have
to show your love by visiting
the brewery store, or flaunt
your tech abilities by ordering
online.
Spice Up Your Life by
Storm Stayed Brewing,
London.
Spice Up
Your Life is a pumpkin
spice latte milk stout.
Sure, that flavour
combination will cause
beer purists to cringe,
but for those who always
wanted to combine their favourite cold and
hot drink flavours, this could be it. Besides,
what good is a beer fridge in the fall without
at least one pumpkin beer?
Autumn by Anderson Craft Ales,
London. The artists of Anderson make it easy
to guide us through the beer seasons with
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
releases named for each.
Autumn is a marzen,
available in 355 mL cans
at the brewery’s bottle
shop. Sure, we like
Summer better, but do
you blame us?
The Heavy
Horse by
Shakespeare
Brewing. A
farmhouse ale,
Heavy Horse gets its
flavour from yeast cultivated from an apple
orchard and honey from Nith
Valley Apiaries in New Hamburg.
It’s 7 per cent alcohol and 25 IBU.
A fine reward for a hard day’s
work on the farm — or at the
office.
Bronzeback Ale by Bayside
Brewing, Erieau. There are lots
of great reasons to daytrip to this
Lake Erie resort town south of
’til ‘til the COWBELLs s come home!
Now available for home for delivery! home VisitCOWBELLBREWING.COM
delivery!
and shop shop
online.
40035 BLYTH BLYTH RD., BLYTH, RD., ON BLYTH, N0M 1H0 ON 1-844-523-4724 N0M 1H0 WWW.COWBELLBREWING.COM
1-844-523-4724 WWW.COWBELLBREWING.

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
Chatham. High on the list is a visit to Bayside
Brewing, where the beer of choice on a chilly
day is Bronzeback Ale. Named as a tribute
to local fishing — bronzeback is also known
as smallmouth bass — this beer is copper in
colour with flavours of burnt caramel and
toffee. It’s been a Bayside mainstay since 2013.
Natterjack Toad by Natterjack
Brewing, West Lorne. Natterjack opened
in September as a
tribute to young
brewer Matt
Soos. His family
is featuring the
Belgian blonde
recipe Matt
developed as a student at Niagara College. The
taste twist is that it includes pistachios. It’s
available only at the brewery store.
November/December 2018 | 35
and widely available, Waterloo
Dark pairs nicely with wild
game. Brewed with Canadian
malted barley and imported
hops, Waterloo Dark tastes
lighter than you’d expect from
the colour.
GEORGE MACKE is
a Southwestern Ontario craft
beer explorer who spends too
much time at the LCBO and craft
breweries.
Waterloo Dark by Waterloo Brewing,
Waterloo. If you’re a duck, deer or moose
hunter, or are lucky enough to know someone
who is, this is the dark lager to bring to the
fall table. One of Waterloo’s four core brands

36 | November/December 2018
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
London
London’s Local Flavour: Volume 7 will launch any
day now. This highly anticipated culinary guide
fills a strong purpose in both drawing tourists
and providing Londoners with more information
about the exciting new options in our diverse
restaurant scene. New this year
is the inclusion of some highly
recommended neighbouring
restaurants and inns, as well
as a more developed craft beer
section. The guide will be widely
available at key tourist information
centres, including Ontario Travel
Centres, Tourism London and the
London International Airport, at
participating businesses and the
London Public Library system, and
at local farmers’ markets. This is
a project undertaken by Eatdrink
magazine, and we’re excited to
share our efforts at celebrating
“London’s local flavour.” Cheers!
The BUZZ
Culinary Community Notes
LONDON’S
Local Flavour
VOLUME 7
Restaurants • Specialty Shops & Services
Craft Beer & Wine • Farmers’ Markets
localflavour.ca
land provides fresh seasonal ingredients for use
in the labs, and produce is sold at the on-campus
farmer’s market every other week.
Chef’s Table at the new downtown campus of
Fanshawe College is both a
restaurant and a café. Menus
NEW!
More to Explore!
Recommended
Culinary
Neighbours
showcase local suppliers, farmers
and seasonal vegetables, with
staff creating many of their own
items, including cured meats
and preserves. The Chef’s Table
gives students hands-on training
and an opportunity to gain
practical experience. There is
an open kitchen, wood, exposed
brick and marble countertops.
The ambiance is relaxed and
accessible. Restaurant is open
weekdays. Lunch: 11 am – 2 pm/
Dinner: 5 pm – 8 pm. 130 Dundas
Street, 519-452-4433.
The one-of-a-kind Artisanal
Culinary Arts graduate program at Fanshawe
College’s School of Tourism, Hospitality and
Culinary Arts teaches techniques in gardening,
fermenting, preserving, butchering, curing,
cheese making, and bread baking. The fast-track
curriculum is based on a modified schedule that
runs from May to December. The spring intake
allows students to work in the on-campus fruit and
vegetable garden throughout the semester. This
The menu at TG’s Addis Ababa
Restaurant features an outstanding offering
of elaborately spiced and perfectly prepared
Ethiopian specialties from the East African
culinary canon. Be sure to put TG’s Ethiopian
breakfast on your list for a great culinary
adventure on Sundays. For an amazing tasting
experience order tapas-style with dishes
like Inkulal Ferfer (scrambled eggs, onion,
tomatoes and jalapeno), Chechebsa (Kita Ferfer
willie’s café
630 Dundas Street, Old East Village.
@williescafe

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
with Ethiopian spices and sour cream); Genfo
(ground cooked wheat served with sour cream,
berbere and seasoned butter) and Yetsom Ferfer
(strips of injera with vegetarian sauce). 465
Dundas Street (at Maitland), 519-433-4222,
tgsaddisababarestaurant.com
Matt Reijnen, has opened Pizzeria Madre in the
space previously occupied by Manito’s Rotisserie
at 111 Wellington Street. The menu is spiked with
seasonal ingredients. The green bean salad with
roasted corn, arugula, pecorino and lemon-chile
dressing was a sensational seasonal dish. There are
10 pizzas on the ever-changing menu: “Patata” with
shaved potato, Fontina, cream, rosemary, chile and
Parmigiano is a knock-out. Warm zeppole for dessert
with lemon curd cream and a deconstructed tiramisu
show the kitchen’s strengths. This licensed, casual
contemporary resto is sophisticated and nicely
appointed and the service is genuinely warm and
intelligent. pizzeriamadre.wixsite.com/book
Wayne DeGroot and Jocelyn Morwood DeGroot
have made zen’Za Pizzeria a popular destination for
vegan, vegetarian and gluten-free thin-crust pizzas.
Their recently added z’Energy Day Café offers
Your Trusted Holiday Caterer
Catering for Special Events,
Company & Family Christmas
Parties, Schools & Sports Teams
We deliver. Full Service Available.
Fresh Homemade Pasta &
Sauces, Meatballs, Lasagnas
and so much more!
580 Adelaide St N, London
519-672-7827
MON–FRI 9:30am–7pm
SATURDAY 9:30am–5pm
SUNDAY 11am–5pm
Homemade
Italian Food
EVERYONE
Will Love!
Gift
Certificates
Full menu available at marshallspastacatering.ca
NOW OPEN!
Veta Wine and Pasta Bar
745 Fanshawe Park Road (formerly Blu Duby)
519-474-1111

Book your Office Holiday Parties now!
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
barista-made coffee and teas, and features several
types of dairy alternatives including cashew, oat,
coconut, ripple pea protein, and rice. Barista James
Timothy whips up a menu of z’Avocado Toasts as
well. The café is open Wednesday to Saturday, 9am
to 3pm. The pizzeria is open from 5pm. Closed
Monday and Tuesday. 71 King St. zenzapizzeria.ca
Locally Sourced Ingredients
Authentic Italian Cuisine
Small-Batch Region-Specific
Organic Italian Wines
Local Craft Beers
Take Out & Gift Certificates Available
Open for Lunch and Dinner
Tuesday through Saturday
www.fatolive.ca
2135 Dorchester Rd., Dorchester
519-268-0001
E&D_Locomotive2018_ART.pdf 1 2018-11-05 10:12 PM
RIO Brazilian Steakhouse + Supper Club, opening
at 45 King Street in the heart of downtown will
feature “Churrasco,” the authentic and unique
Brazilian barbeque. Jeff Moczulski brings
two decades of successful leadership in both
independents and national brands, from the Best
Western Lamplighter Inn to the John Labatt Centre
to Buffalo Wild Wings. He is joined by a hand-picked
team from the local hospitality industry for his first
venture as restaurant owner and operator.
Shoeless Joe’s is also coming to downtown London,
on King Street across from Budweiser Gardens.
Certified tea sommelier and nutritionist, Michelle
Pierce Hamilton of beTeas/The Tea Lounge is
sponsoring London’s first Tea & Kombucha Fest
in March 2019. The Tea Guild of Canada is a
co-sponsor, providing its expertise, resources,
and volunteers. The organizing board consists
of students and graduates of tea sommelier
training in London. The planning and execution is
being run with an independent Project Manager
professional at the helm. This structure is based
on best practice of the successful Toronto Tea
Festival. Locally, the board felt strongly that it
made good sense to include Kombucha as a thriving
tea-related beverage as a co-focus of this event.
The spirit of this venture is to grow tea culture by
showcasing London and areas’ independent tea and
Kombucha businesses. There will be a strong lineup
of engaging workshops and speakers to provide
valuable content to all the attendees. The venue
will be the London Public Library Central Branch
including Wolf Performance Hall.
Chef Angie Murphy and sommelier Pete Annson
are anticipating that Grace, located at the
southwest corner of Clarence and Dundas Streets,
will be operational by December 1. They promise
food made with artistry and an uncompromising
dedication to excellence. This is modern Canadian
cuisine, drawing on classic French traditions and
techniques, infused with global influences and local
flavours. A minimalist backdrop will allow for the
drama of the dish to be the focus. The restaurant
space is being co-created with Design House.

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
Restaurateur Joe Duby and chef Cynthia Beaudoin
of gNosh have established an appreciative clientele
by creating a welcoming ambience where patrons
can enjoy a glass of wine or a signature cocktail
at the bar, a couple of small plates or a full
Service Animals
Most people don’t know or think about the
role or function that service dogs play for
many Canadians. In regards to restaurants
and the admission of service dogs, there are
laws and guidelines that must be followed.
We have all heard stories about service dogs
being denied entry to a restaurant, so let’s
clarify the laws and guidelines.
A seeing-eye dog guide assists a person
with limited sight while a service dog
encompasses all animals that have been
trained to assist people with a broader range
of disabilities, such as the onset of seizures,
and provide their owner with a wider access
to society. A service animal is not a pet.
While businesses can say “no pets allowed,”
they can’t deny you service because of your
animal.
519-565-2576
LakeHouseofBayfield.com
BISTRO
CONFERENCE
SUITES
SPA
Laws forbid service animals from certain
premises, typically where food is processed,
manufactured, or sold. By law, guide dogs
are allowed into establishments where food
is served or sold. Service dogs typically wear
some sort of vest or harness and are easily
identifiable as such, but many businesses
reserve the right to ask for some proof.
Seeing-eye dog guides are issued with photo
ID of both the owner and dog.
If a business turns someone away unjustly,
the offended person can file a human
rights complaint with the Ontario Human
Rights Commission, but could start at the
Canadian Human Rights Commission for
guidance (www.chrc-ccdp.gc.ca/eng/make-acomplaint).
If relevant, they can also pursue
charges under the Blind Person’s Right Act.
— Bryan Lavery
519-565-2576
LakeHouseofBayfield.com

203,
851
Discover Heather's
Incomparable Journeys
Small Bespoke
Group Tours for 2019
Poland, Baltic States & St. Petersburg
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sheer grandeur of Russia’s imperial city
Tanzania & Zanzibar
14 days, September 2019
10-day Serengeti & Tarangire National Parks
Safari,, plus 4 days Beach Resort
www.heathersincomparablejourneys.ca
For any and all of your travel needs
519-473-8591 — Heather Wilkinson
Regional Office: 31 Nottinghill Gate, Suite 203, Oakville
TICO#50013851
Delighted to welcome you late fall 2018
reserve@gracelondon.ca
@gracerestaurantlondon
@graceLDNONT
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
dining experience, in a casual yet stylish setting
(the former Blu Duby premises). gNosh is an
unpretentious restaurant celebrating honest food
and wine, with a sophisticated atmosphere and
friendly service. gnoshdining.com
Just like the original Quynh Nhi Restaurant on
Wharncliffe Road, Tamarine by Quynh Nhi on
Dundas at Talbot Street is well-known for take-out.
When you’re craving a delicious blend of Viet-Thai
flavours, you can satisfy your taste buds in the
comfort of your home or office. tamarine.ca
SO INVITING, the Chinese bakery and dumpling
shop across from the Market at Western Fair, more
than lives up to its name. Friendly owners Yamei
Min and Youjin Wang offer a variety of delicious
hand-made dumplings that include beef, chicken,
pork and vegetable. They’ve added hot & sour
soup, mushroom fried vermicelli (rice noodles) and
seaweed salad to the repertoire. The minimalist
shop has 4 tiny seats but is mainly take-away. 876
Dundas Street East, 226-781-0788
Dino and Carla Dassie recently opened Fat Olive
in Dorchester. Dino was born into an Italian
family and learned to cook authentic Italian food
from his mother and his aunts, inheriting their
passion for using fresh ingredients. He knew at a
young age that he wanted to open his own Italian
restaurant. After high school, he went to Conestoga
College where he obtained his diploma in Business
Administration and Marketing. After college,
Dino put his passion on hold and began driving a
truck. Last year Dino and his wife Carla went to
Goodfella’s Pizza School in Staten Island, New York,
one of the World’s most comprehensive, hands-on
pizza schools. They were taught how to make
wood-fired pizzas from the world’s pizza champions
and about owning and operating a restaurant. You
will often see Carla at the restaurant talking with
customers and entertaining people. They both
know all about the joys of eating great tasting food.
Be sure to make a reservation. fatolive.ca
The Market at Western Fair District is now open on
both Saturday (8 am–3 pm) and Sunday (11 am–3
pm) each week. westernfairdistrict.com/market
First-St. Andrew’s United Church at 350 Queens
Avenue (at Waterloo) will be continuing its tradition
of providing great music this autumn. The second
Woodfield Jazz concert (in a series of four) will
take place on November 23 with the Ariel Kasler
Quartet. A cash bar will be available. Doors open
at 7 pm with entertainment at 8 pm. And starting

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
the following week there will be the first of three
Friday Advent Noon Recitals (November 30 - King’s
University College Chamber Choir, Janet Loo,
Director, December 7 - Sonja Gustafson, Soprano
and Kathleen Gahagan, Harp, December 14 -
Laudamus Bells, Terry Head, Director).Lunch will
be available for $8. music@fsaunited.com
Celebrate New Year’s Eve at the Idlewyld Inn and
Spa! There are two options for your consideration:
dinner only (from 5:30 to 7:30 p.m.) or dinner and
show (dinner at 8:30/show at 10:30 p.m.) with
Sonya Gustafson, pianist Charlie Rallo and bassist
Larry Ernwein. idlewyldinn.com
Now Accepting
Holiday Party
Bookings!
The heart of
Downtown
Strathroy
At London Training Centre, Sommelier Jamie
West and Chef Steve James are your hosts for an
evening of wine, food and flavours. Each tasting
in the “Uncorked” series has been carefully
selected, focusing on unique grape varietals and
the fascinating stories of each winery. Chef Steve
James has created dishes to reflect the particular
wine and region. Each evening will offer informative
talks of the wines and food, all within a casual
and fun environment. These sessions provide a
unique opportunity to spend with friends and
colleagues who love great wine and exceptional
food. Upcoming in the series: Canada (November
8), Champagne (December 6), Mediterranean (tba).
Each session is limited to 10 guests seated at the
chef’s table. londontraining.on.ca
Join the folks at Covent Garden Market on Sunday,
December 16 for the Christmas Merry Makers Fair, a
100% handmade event held in the heart of the Forest
City. Here you’ll find some of the best handmade
shopping around, including art, home decor, jewelry,
clothing, bath and beauty products – everything you
need to finish your Christmas list and support local
at the same time. coventmarket.com
New to Covent Garden Market is Mark’s Fine Meats
from Chef Mark Kitching of Waldo’s On King Bistro
& Wine Bar. Mark will continue to offer Fieldgate
Organics (the previous proprietors at the location,
who will remain a primary supplier) products and
other organics as well as local and sustainable
meats. “All of the products are handpicked — only
the highest quality meats — so you can feel good
about what you and your family are eating,” says
Mark. Other suppliers will include Bryan Glivesy
of YU Ranch Texas Longhorn, Fred and Ingrid de
Martines of Perth Pork Products. There will also be
free range ducks, chickens, eggs, fresh oysters and
pre-made meals for takeaway.
12 DAYS
of
CHRISTMAS
Giveaways!
Chef/Owner Mark Graham’s
fresh, creative, locallysourced
menus extend
to full-service catering
to Strathroy, London &
area. Call for a quote!
Voted #1 Best Burger
in Strathroy
2018 Spirit Awards
Winner
Historic Post Office & Customs Building
71 Frank St, Strathroy • 519-205-1500
www.clocktower-inn.com

An Experience to Savour ...
• Casual Fine Dining • Stunning Architecture
• World-inspired Cuisine Featuring Local
Ingredients, Plus a Vegan Menu
• Private Dining Rooms for Lunch & Dinner
NEW
NEW
MENUS
MENUS
Far Out ...
but we like it that way!
Blair Rd
London
International
Airport
Crumlin Rd
Oxford St
Now Open Thursday & Friday 11–9
New Tapas Menu!
Reserve Your
HOLIDAY
PARTY or
Event NOW!
BLACK
TRUMPET
Open Mon–Sat
lunch & dinner
523 Richmond St. London www.blacktrumpet.ca
RESERVATIONS: 519-850-1500 | info@blacktrumpet.ca
Come for the planes and fall in
love with the food. And ask for
your Katana Christmas Chocolate
when you come
in to dine!
Book Your
Holiday
Parties
NOW!
519-455-9005
katanakafe.ca
2530 Blair Rd, London
Diamond Flight Centre
Lunch Mon–Fri 11–3 • Dinner Wed–Sun from 5pm
Weekend Breakfast 9–12, Lunch 12–3, Dinner 5–9
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
Edgar and Joe’s, at two locations, is a gathering
space and food operation with a social purpose.
Each café makes fresh and local food available
and affordable, with healthy choices. The stylish
and minimalist 70-seat café opened in 2013 and
is located in the Goodwill Centre. Rave reviews
led to the opening of another location in 2017 at
Innovation Works on King Street. Both cafés serve
a diverse clientele from all over the city. Nutritious
baked goods with high quality ingredients are
freshly baked throughout the day. Sandwiches
are definitely the stars of the show, from the
classic BLT to innovative combinations inspired
by global cuisines. Delicious soups, salads and
a daily chalkboard special are on offer. The
Classic Breakfast Special is a hearty standout.
edgarandjoes.ca
New fall/winter drinks created by the baristas
at Locomotive Espresso include “The Smoky
Mocha” — two shots of espresso and Ghirardelli
chocolate topped with a smoked sea salt. Their
popular creation from last year is also back: “The
Tree Hugger Latte” includes Spruce Shoot Bitters
by The New New Age in Port Stanley and local
maple syrup. The popular toast bar is now more
substantial, offering seasonal toast features such
as Smoked Salmon on Artisan Bakery potato/leek
sourdough served with whipped cream cheese,
capers and fresh dill. Avocado Toast is paired
with Artisan Bakery jalapeño cheddar toast and
comes with goat cheese, lemon wedge and fresh
herbs. Locomotive’s baking needs are being met by
Helm Baked from Aylmer, who “magically” create
wonderful gluten-free loaves, tarts and cookies.
www.locomotiveespresso.com
Stratford
Stratford Chefs School (SCS) recently announced
Jane Sigal as the 2018 Joseph Hoare Gastronomic
Writer in Residence. She is a celebrated journalist,
editor, recipe developer, translator, teacher, and
the author of nine cookbooks. Her most recent
book, Bistronomy: Recipes from The Best New Paris
Bistros (Rizzoli, 2015), has been widely praised by
critics and industry leaders. Sigal will spend two
weeks at the school working with the students and
participating in a number of events open to the
public. stratfordchef.com
In honour of its 35th anniversary, the SCS used this
year’s Season Opener to launch Farm to Table,
a cookbook that pairs 25 Stratford Chefs School
alumni chefs with their favourite food producers
and farmers for a culinary adventure through
Perth and Huron Counties. This stunning book will

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
Eperiential Tourism
Recent research demonstrates that many travellers
seek out authentic learning experiences, want
to engage with community folks, and use travel
as an opportunity to grow personally while having
a low impact on local communities and their
environments. Bryan Lavery (culinary educator,
chef and Eatdrink food editor), Alieska Robles
(creative director and photographer), along with
Tourism London and Ontario’s Southwest, are
collaborating on a new London culinary experience.
They plan to introduce the concept of
experiential tourism, with Celes Davar (of Earth
Rhythms), Michelle Pierce Hamilton (certified tea
sommelier and owner of bTeas/The Tea Lounge),
Chef Brian Sua-an and Jerrah Revilles (of Reverie),
chef Thomas Waite and Emanuela Frongia
(of The In Home Chef) and farmer and educator
Paul Spence of CK Table.
Celes Davar is an experiential tourism operator,
coach and facilitator. He helps guide tourism
businesses across Canada to learn how to craft
new experiences. Using the raw material of their
backyard storytellers, natural places, culture and
food traditions, he helps tourism partners to tell
their stories through new higher yield experiences.
These can then be layered into tourism businesses
and communities, integrated with responsible
November/December 2018 | 43
travel practices, and marketed to travellers
seeking sustainable travel experiences.
Davar defines experiential tourism as “creating
experiences that engage visitors in a series of
memorable activities, revealed over a period of
time, that are inherently personal, engage the
senses, and make connections on an emotional,
physical, spiritual, or intellectual level.”
Experiences with a culinary focus could look like
this: while visiting an apiary, don protective gear
and work with the bee-keeper to collect honey;
or while attending cooking classes in Italy, stay
with a local resident instead of at a hotel, and visit
markets and other regional food suppliers.
Experiential tourism is an extension of a
global movement toward experiential learning,
whereby people create meaning by appreciating
cultural nuance through interactive authentic
experiences. The world of travel is changing
with dedicated interest and demand for firsthand
travel experiences that resonates on a
visceral level. Travel providers and guides are
responding by developing services that “speak
to place” and are more adventurous, more
custom-made, and more attuned to interacting
in a genuine way with local culture, inspiring
travellers toward a path of self-discovery.

Freshly home-made in the heart of the community
The
Village
Teapot
Breakfast
Brunch
Lunch
Cream Teas
Wed & Thurs 10–3
Fri 10–7:30
Sat & Sun 10–2
13257 Ilderton Road, Ilderton ON
thevillageteapot.ca
519-298-TEAS (8327)
where art is
Hey, Cupcake! a piece of cake
The ORIGINAL
LONDON CAKERY &
GOURMET CUPCAKE
BAKERY
ASK US Custom Bakery • Walk-In Orders Available
ABOUT OUR
“RANDOM
ACTS OF
SWEETNESS!”
CAMPAIGN
www.heycupcake.ca
275 Wharncliffe Rd. North
519-433-CAKE (2253)
STORE HOURS: Mon–Fri 11–7
Saturday 10–5 • Sunday 11–4
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
retail for $30 and feature recipes from some of the
regions’ most celebrated graduates of the Stratford
Chefs School, fascinating interviews with the chefs
conducted by food columnist Andrew Coppolino,
and striking imagery provided by photographer and
SCS alumna Terry Manzo. (Note: Farm to Table is
reviewed in this issue of Eatdrink. — Ed.)
Stratford Chefs School Dough is a gift certificate
program where “dough” (aka dollars) may be
applied towards any SCS merchandise, Dinner
Series, or Open Kitchen cooking class. Purchase
SCS Dough valued at $120 for only $100. It can
be purchased at the Administration Office at 192
Ontario Street, and is available in $5, $10 and $20
denominations. Some restrictions apply. 519-271-
1414, stratfordchef.com
Bradshaws Christmas Open House: Friday,
November 9, 5–8 pm. Bring along a few of your
friends for a fun night out and a first look at
Bradshaws in all its Christmas glory. There will be
delicious food samplings, hot new product demos,
and an assortment of holiday giftware, kitchenware
and entertaining items. Free gift with purchase and
enter to win door prizes. bradshawscanada.com
Bradshaws High Tea at Revival House: Nov 25
visitstratford.ca/member/Bradshaws
A Victorian Christmas in Downtown Stratford &
Outdoor Christmas Market: Sunday, November 25
visit Stratford’s historic downtown for the Outdoor
Christmas Market in Stratford’s Market Square.
Enjoy local art show, crafts for kids and meet Santa.
Shop vendor stalls for holiday foods, crafts and gifts.
Sip hot cocoa, listen to costumed carolers singing
seasonal tunes and embrace the character and
charm of Christmas in Stratford. visitstratford.ca
Stratford Christmas Trail: From November 1 to
December 20, capture the spirit of giving and the
joy of checking off that list on Stratford’s Christmas
Trail. You’ll discover unique and individual ideas
as you stroll the festive streets exchanging six
vouchers at your choice of 27 stops. visitstratford.
ca/christmastrail
The Milky Whey Fine Cheese Shop is offering a
series of cheese pairing tastings. Explore Seasonal
Beer and Cheese (October 27), Canadian Cheese
and Wine (Nov 10), Who’s Got Your Goat with Pinots
on the side (Nov 24) and Deconstructing a Holiday
Charcuterie Board Workshop (Dec 1). All tastings
are guided by cheesemonger Liz Payne in the “Whey
Back Room” of Milky Whey Fine Cheese, Stratford.

Reserve Now
HOLIDAY PARTIES
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
Reserve your seat early as these popular tastings
sell out. visitstratford.ca/member/The-Milky-
Whey-Fine-Cheese-Shop
Stratford Farmers’ Market is a year round market
operating since 1855, featuring fresh produce,
crafts, meat and cheese. Stratford Rotary Complex,
Agriplex, 353 McCarthy Rd., Stratford. Saturdays 7
am – 12 pm. 519-271-5130. stratfordfairgrounds.com
Savour Stratford Culinary Trails: Come to Stratford
and explore the delicious flavours of Chocolate
and Bacon and Ale on self-guided culinary walks to
various food shops and restaurants. Available all
year round, they are great for a friends’ getaway,
a couple’s diversion or just for fun. Culinary trail
gift certificates, great for Christmas, birthday and
anniversary gifts, are redeemable at a later date
and can be purchased on-line. visitstratford.ca/
chocolatetrail
The Mill Stone is focusing more on tapas/
small plates for the autumn and winter months,
and expanding their focus on various curing
and fermenting projects. As with many places
in Stratford in the off-season, look for more
experimental and interesting creations coming
from both the kitchen and bar. The restaurant will
be closed for January; re-opening mid-February
with lots of events planned to take them through to
the busier summer months. themillstone.ca
Come Home for the Holidays to La Casa!
Tradition
&
Passion
117 King Street
across from Budweiser Gardens
519-434-2272 (CASA)
www.lacasaristorante.com
“Enjoy consistently
outstanding Italian and
International cuisine
in a warm and inviting
atmosphere.”
Reserve NOW for Your
Holiday Party or Event!
A
London
Landmark
for
24
Years!
Extensive
Scotch Bar
Open Mon–Sat
Lunch & Dinner
Black Swan Brewing Company is led by Ryan
Stokes and head brewer Phil Philips. Join Black
Swan on November 17 as they celebrate their
recent expansion and fourth year pouring beer in
Stratford. Live music, door prizes, tours & more! 144
Downie St., Stratford, blackswanbrewing.ca
The folks from The Red Rabbit and Okazu
85 Downie love building new, worker-owned
restaurants from (just about) the ground up. It
gives them the opportunity to offer fair wages and
year round employment — and now offer delicious
food to early risers. Old Man & Son will open for
breakfast and lunch, 7am–2pm, Wednesday–
Sunday. Barring hold-backs, the aim is to open
December 2018. This is a CSR project, a communityshared
endeavour that provides an effective way
to put your dollars into something you believe in.
Investment is effectively prepayment in return for
future products or services, or “restaurant futures,”
using Kickstarter. You can find the form on their
new website www.oldmanandson.com
Loose Leaf Teas & Tisanes
•
Contemporary & Traditional Teaware
•
Fresh Soups, Salads, Cheese Boards,
Desserts, Fresh-baked Scones
Christmas
Afternoon Tea
December 16
Classes
& Events
268 Piccadilly Street (beside Oxford Book Store)
519-601-TEAS (8327) • tealoungelondon.com
TUES-THURS 11am-5pm • FRI & SAT 11am-9pm • SUN Special Events Only

46 | November/December 2018
Around the Region
The Village Teapot, owned and operated by Gaynor
Deeks and Jana Yassine, will be serving a special
Christmas Tea on Saturday December 8 and Sunday
December 16, from 1 to 3 p.m. Reservations will be
required. It will be a festive afternoon for family
and friends to come together and enjoy savoury
and sweet delights served on three-tiered platters.
13257 Ilderton Road, Ilderton, 519-298-8327,
thevillageteapot.ca
Kitchen Widgets was established in 1995 to provide
high quality kitchen tools and housewares to the
Sarnia market, for those who love to cook, entertain
or simply appreciate a widget that helps complete
a task with ease. Kitchen Widgets has grown, and
now sources products from around the globe while
always on the hunt for items made close to home. If
a product exists, they will find it for you and make
every effort to get it into your hands. Don’t miss
the Black Friday Sale on November 23. 129 Mitton
Street South, Sarnia, kitchen-widgets.com
The family at Blyth Farm Cheese are experts in the
entire process of crafting great cheese. Everything
from the farming, to the cheese making, to the
packing is done on the farm. The Van Dorps have
Award Winning
Artisan Cheese
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
been successful farmers and cheese makers for
generations. The business is steeped in important
roots and traditions, while innovating and creating
fresh and delicious flavours. 82521 Allboro Line,
Blyth, blythfarmcheese.ca
Steed & Company Lavender invite you to their
annual Lavender Christmas Open House. Share
some Christmas cheer with lavender cake and
cider. Enter a draw for a beautiful lavender
gift collection. Saturday, November 24, 10am–
5pm and Sunday, November 25, noon–4pm.
steedandcompanylavender.com
Join sommelier and wine director Zach Lebert of
Woodstock’s SixThirtyNine through a tasting of
exquisite Italian wine paired with Italian small plates
by Chef Eric Boyar on November 19. sixthirtynine.com
After two winners at the Royal Winter Fair, where
their Fontina and Farmstead Emmental both won
First Place in their category, the folks at Stonetown
Cheese in St. Marys competed at the British Empire
Cheese Competition where they were honoured as
they were awarded Grand Champion in Specialty
Cheeses and First Place for Grand Trunk, First
Place for Farmstead Emmental and First Place
Gift Baskets to meet
any need and price range
Come Experience Our World!
Visit our cheese shop and sample our unique
handmade cheeses.
See and learn about how cheese is made.
Enjoy the scenery on our 3-generation family farm.
Group tours are available by reservation.
Monday–Saturday 9-5
Christmas Eve 9–2
Closed Christmas
& Boxing Day
445172 Gunn's Hill Rd, Woodstock, ON
519-424-4024
www.gunnshillcheese.ca
481 Richmond Street
519-432-4092
garlicsoflondon.com

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
for Farmstead Fontina. Congratulations! See this
issue’s “Road Trip to St. Marys” for more info about
visiting the Stonetown farm and factory, but their
cheese is also available at better shops throughout
the region. stonetowncheese.com
Speaking of Cheese Champions, Shep Ysselstein of
Woodstock’s Gunn’s Hill Artisan Cheese is proud to
share that they were awarded the Grand Champion in
the Variety Cheese Category for their Five Brothers
at the Royal Winter Fair’s cheese competition for
2018. Congratulations Shep! This popular cheese was
a key ingredient in Eatdrink’s recipe contest winner
for inclusion in the Forest City Cookbook released
this summer. A visit to Gunn’s Hill is always a treat,
but again, one can find their products throughout
Southern Ontario. gunnshillcheese.ca
Meet the Woodstock Public Library at Woodstock’s
Upper Thames Brewing Company for pub trivia
and test your knowledge. Come in a team of five or
join upon arrival. November 21 and December 19.
upperthamesbrewing.ca
The holiday season kicks off at the Elm Hurst Inn on
November 22 for the Groove Marmalade Holiday
Dance Night and Dinner. $70 per person exclusive
or stay the night and take advantage of a great
seasonal package! elmhurstinn.com
Truffle Camp Experience: Step into the role of
chocolatier for an evening as you work with Cindy
Walker of Ingersoll’s Chocolatea. You’ll love
learning the art of truffle-making, working with a
mix of local ingredients from neighbouring farms,
and handcrafting your own small batch of 12
truffles. November 28; December t; December 16;
December 22. chocolatea.ca/product/truffle-camp
We caught up with Chef Derrick Reinhardt of
Montreal’s famed Joe Beef at gNnosh Dining &
Cocktails by Joe Duby. Reinhardt, a Fanshawe
College Chef School alumnus, is the chef at
Montreal’s new 200-seat McKiernan Luncheonette
in Côte-St-Paul, serving an all-day breakfast and
lunch. mckiernanmtl.com
We want your BUZZ!
Do you have culinary news or upcoming events
that you’d like us to share?
Every issue, Eatdrink reaches more than
50,000 readers across Southwestern Ontario
in print, and thousands more online.
Get in touch with us at editor@eatdrink.ca
Submission deadline for the next issue: December 5
Saying Goodbye to My Clients
and Wortley Village
After 22 years in the Village, Impressions
will be under great new ownership as of
Feb.1, 2019.
I wish a fond farewell to my clients, staff
and friends, with a deep appreciation for the
fantastic people I have met and the
relationships I have developed.
I am looking forward to the next Chapter of
my life and the new adventures that await
me.
Thank you from the bottom of my heart for
some of the best years and many great
memories!
— Brenda
PS … Stop in to discover who
the new owner is!
Featuring
Creative Menus
from Chefs
Erryn Shephard
&
Ben Sandwith
Seasonal Hours
Reservations Recommended
Always Available
for Caterings!
FASHIONS & ACCESSORIES
Book NOW for your
Christmas Lunch or Dinner Party
& Reserve for New Year’s Eve!
519.238.6224
42 Ontario St. S., Grand Bend
www.finearestaurant.com

48 | November/December 2018
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
Theatre
Scrooge Gets a Gender Flip
Christmas at The Grand Theatre
By JANE ANTONIAK
This holiday season Grand Theatre’s
artistic director, Dennis Garnhum,
shows commitment to his pledge
to “ignite conversations about
issues, ideas, and ways of thinking” with his
feminization of A Christmas Carol. This year
the story gets a gender flip. Meet the new
Scrooge: Jan Alexandra Smith. The role will be
played as a woman, by a woman.
Garnhum calls it a fresh take on a classical
tale of rebirth. “It will have the spirit of last
year with a magical dose of fresh talent. It is
meant to be fun — for the audience to wonder
‘What if?’”
Smith was Garnhum’s first choice to take
on the female Scrooge role. She has been
acting professionally in Canada for 32 years.
Smith and Garnhum first met at Shaw Festival
and then worked together again at Theatre
Calgary. Interestingly, she was at the Grand
1992-93 in the same play. She played the roles
of Martha Cratchit and Belle, the beautiful
young love interest of young Scrooge. Now
it is her turn to be Scrooge. Back in the 1992
production Aidan Desalaiz was Tiny Tim to
her Martha. Desalaiz is also back on stage
for this year’s production as Fred, Scrooge’s
nephew. “We were brother and sister and here
we are, all the years later, and he is Freddie
Actress Jan Alexandra
Smith will be playing
the role of Scrooge in
A Christmas Carol.
and I am his Aunt Scrooge. He has matured
into a beautiful man and actor and it’s special
to do this with him,” says Smith.
This year’s A Christmas Carol is the same
production adapted by Garnhum, which
ran last season. However this year it will be
directed by Megan Watson, Grand Theatre
Artistic Associate. Joining Smith on the Spriet
Stage are Sean Arbuckle, returning in the
role of Bob Cratchit, and Steve Ross as Mr.
Fezziwig. Both have years of experience on
the Stratford stage. This is always the Grand’s
gain, to pick up national talent during the
Stratford off months.
The script will be feminized to reflect
Scrooge as a woman. Garnhum says that
Smith’s powerful force on the stage, along
with her intelligence, makes her ideal to take
on this gender switch. Last season she proved
herself to Londoners as Johannah Donnelly
in the local cultural epic, Vigilante. Smith is
back in that role this year for the Grand’s
reprise of the hit production in late February/
early March 2019. As well, she recently played
Mrs. Ross in Timothy Findley’s The Wars, also
adapted and directed by Garnhum. Next April
she will play Tanya in Mamma Mia!
Smith says she takes inspiration from
colleagues Seana McKenna who played Julius
Caesar at Stratford this past
season, and from Nora McLellan
who also played a female Scrooge
in a Theatre New Brunswick
production in 2017. “I think it
is great for the Grand Theatre
to shake things up in this way
and to have a female in this role.
When I came to the opening of
A Christmas Carol at the Grand
last year, Ben Campbell came
on stage and said iconic lines
and I thought this stuff is so
good, why can’t a woman have
a chance to say those words and

ing in the holidays at the grand!
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
November/December 2018 | 49
Starring
Jan Alexandra
Smith as Scrooge
On Stage
this December
By Charles Dickens
Adapted by Dennis Garnhum
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play that role? And, what do you know, a year
later they are going to do it and I’m the lucky
one who gets the opportunity to do it!”
Both Garnhum and Smith are especially
excited to see the female adaptation of the
ending of A Christmas Carol, when Scrooge
wakes up on Christmas morning, shedding
her curmudgeonly ways to embrace a new,
joyful approach to life. “People think they
have seen it but they forget the details and
emotions of that scene,” says Garnhum.
Smith is excited to get into rehearsals to
explore what happens when a woman shuts
herself down from her heart and humanity
and then is reborn. “It is fair to say that
different genders have different emotional
priorities. So it will be interesting to explore
what happens, comparing how a man opens
up his heart again and how a woman opens
up her heart again — to realize it’s not too
late to experience love for her fellows,” says
Smith.
JANE ANTONIAK is a regular contributor to Eatdrink.
She is also Manager, Communications & Media Relations,
at King’s University College in London.

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
Music
Holiday Notes
Upcoming Highlights on the Music Scene
November/December 2018 | 51
By GERRY BLACKWELL
Yikes! The yuletide is almost upon
us. How does this sneak up on us
every year? If you’re already being
driven bonkers by cheesy Christmas
muzak, here’s my advice: insert earplugs
before braving the malls. But good live music
is the best antidote, and we have a ton of it in
London and area this Noël.
Let’s start with the explicitly Christmas fare.
Aeolian Hall kicks it off on Sunday, November
25 (afternoon) with Broadsway Christmas, a
jazzy evening with a trio of great voices: Junonominee
and National Jazz Award Vocalist of
the Year Heather Bambrick, Dora Mavor Moore
Award nominee Diane Leah, and Julie Michels.
CBC Radio called their seasonal album, The
Most Wonderful Time … Maybe, “a musical
version of the best office Christmas party ever!”
Broadsway
Christmas picks up steam in December.
London Symphonia does its annual rendition
of Handel’s Messiah on Saturday, December 1 at
First-Saint Andrew’s Church (7:30 pm), joined
as usual by London Pro Musica Choir and
the baroque soloists from Capella Intima, all
under the baton of conductor Kevin Mallon.
The Messiah never gets stale.
On Sunday, December 2 it’s another
songstress trio, this time in the folk music
vein. Cuckoo’s Nest Folk Club is bringing
Boreal to Chaucer’s Pub (7:30 pm). The three
women, all from Guelph — Tannis Slimmon,
Katherine Wheatley, and Jude Vadala — get
together every year to tour their “Songs for
the Snowy Season” show. It started with a
kitchen concert 11 years ago, and has become
a seasonal tradition for their many fans.
Magisterra Soloists check in with
“Christmas Baroque,” a concert of Yule-themed
favourites from Vivaldi, Bach, Handel and
other baroquistes. It goes at St. Luke’s Anglican
Church on Thursday, December 6 (7 pm).
The Ennis Sisters
Aeolian Hall has dynamite back-to-back
Christmas concerts on Monday, December
10 and Tuesday, December 11 (both at 8 pm).
The Good Lovelies — yet another female
threesome: Caroline Brooks, Kerri Ough and
Susan Passmore — are in on the Monday
with their charming Christmas concert
of folk-tinged favourites. This is a return
engagement; the Lovelies were here last year
and it is becoming an annual fixture. Then on
the Tuesday, it’s Newfoundland’s The Ennis
Sisters. That’s right, another threesome:
A Next Generation Leahy Christmas

52 | November/December 2018
Maureen, Karen and Teresa. Their show
includes originals and Christmas standards.
The Ennises are known for tight sisterly
harmonies and between-song banter.
Sunfest presents A Next Generation
Leahy Christmas on Wednesday, December
12 (8 pm), at London Music Hall. The group
features six of the nine children of fiddler
Doug Leahy, a member of the celebrated
family band Leahy and his wife Jennifer, who
plays piano and sings. Ages eight through
sixteen, the Leahy children already are highly
accomplished multi-instrumentalists, playing
traditional country and folk styles, filled with
the high‐energy, Celtic‐based music of their
family’s holiday traditions.
Canada’s Ballet Jörgen
Another London Christmas tradition is a
visit from Canada’s Ballet Jörgen with its
production of Tchaikovsky’s The Nutcracker.
Centennial Hall has one show, on Sunday,
December 23 (3 pm). A cool thing about
Jörgen is that the troupe works with area
dance schools and features local child dancers
in its performances.
Enough of Christmas. There’s lots of other
good music coming our way too.
Let’s double back to Wednesday, November
14, when Jazz for the People brings The Joe
Policastro Trio to Wolf Performance Hall at
the Central Library (7:15 pm). Led by bassist
Policastro
and featuring
guitarist
Dave Miller,
the Chicagobased
trio
is a rarity in
that it almost
always plays
together, a
true group.
They do
straight-up
The Joe Policastro Trio
jazz, but also
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
branch into blues, funk, pop and free jazz. As
always, it’s a free concert. (Whoop!)
Kolonien
As part of the TD Sunfest World Music &
Jazz Series, in cooperation with the Cuckoo’s
Nest Folk Club, Swedish folk band Kolonien
takes the stage November 16 (7:30 pm)
at Chaucer’s Pub. Billed as “Sweden’s most
exciting folk band,” Kolonien has been making
its mark with its visionary folk and roots
music in Europe and Scandinavia.
Jazz and folk not your thing? How about
reggae then? As part of the TD Sunfest World
Music & Jazz Series, London Music Hall has
the legendary Wailers (7 pm/8 pm). That’s
right, of Bob Marley and the Wailers. Except,
well … The Wailers play on Marley-less, led by
bassist and band founder Aston “Familyman”
Barrett. The good news: the music sounds as
infectious, mellow and danceable as ever.
The Wailers
Magisterra Soloists continue their
Magisterra at the Museum series at Museum
London on Thursday, November 15 (7 pm).
The concert is titled “Masquerade,” subtitled,
“Revised, Revived, Rebooted.” The publicity
material teases with, “get surprised by works of
Bach/Mozart…” — funny, we didn’t know those
two wrote together — “…Dvorak, Piazolla…”
We’re not sure what to expect. The evening also
includes a little-heard early piano quintet by the
great mid-20th-century symphony conductor
George Szell.

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
Opera at
Western is
back with
“The Turn of
the Screw,”
by Benjamin
Britten,
an opera
adaptation of
the very scary
ghost story
by Henry
James. It goes
November
15 and 16 (8 pm), and November 17 and 18 (2
pm) at the Paul Davenport Theatre (Talbot
College) on Western University’s campus. If
you’ve shied away from opera because of the
language barrier, know that this one is written
and sung entirely in English.
Aeolian Hall has Canada’s “Goddess of the
Blues,” Rita Chiarelli and her band Sweet
Loretta, on Saturday, November 17 (8 pm).
Chiarelli,
a Juno
winner, is an
Rita Chiarelli
accomplished
songwriter
and dynamic
performer
with an
awesome
three-octave
set of pipes.
“A voice
so blue it
could make
the angels
weep,” one
critic gushed.
There’s more
to Chiarelli. Her latest CD release is the
soundtrack to the documentary Music From
The Big House. It’s a live recording featuring
Chiarelli with musician-inmates at Louisiana’s
maximum-security Angola Prison, considered
by some to be the birthplace of the blues.
Answer me this: why does Brantford get
Blue Rodeo and London apparently can’t?
The iconic folk-rockers are at the Sanderson
Centre on Friday, November 23 and Saturday,
November 24 (8 pm). Oh, well. Brantford
is only an hour or so away. Might be worth
the drive? The Rodeo are playing Kitchener’s
Centre in the Square too, on December 29.
London does get the legendary Gordon
Patricia Cano
Saturday, November 10
Aeolian Hall, 795 Dundas St.
From
Sweden
World Music
&
Jazz Series
‘18 - ‘ 19
www.sunfest.on.ca
The Wailers
Wednesday, November 14
London Music Hall, 185 Queens Ave.
acher Flyer (2016)
(Beth) Hickey, BA(MUS)
Next Generation
Kolonien Leahy Christmas
ced piano/theory teacher now accepting new students into professional music
Opera at Western (photo from “Carmen”)
, active musician, established in the community
Friday, November 16, 7:30 pm
al instruction
Wednesday, December 12
Chaucer’s Pub, 122 Carling St. London Music Hall, 185 Queens Ave.
ounding to have gift of music for life / lifelong Michael gift of music
Kaeshammer Jesse
ome-based environment
Cook
orth location, convenient to bus routes
Thursday, December 13 Friday, March 22, 2019
ionate, kind, caring, nurturing, gentle, encouraging, Aeolian Hall, 795 Dundas understanding
St. London Music Hall, 185 Queens Ave.
Most Concerts: Doors at 7:00 pm ~ Performances at 8:00 pm
nservatory Exam Preparation
Tickets at Venue Box Offices, Centennial Hall,
Long & McQuade North, Village Idiot (Wortley Village), and sunfest.on.ca
y Piano Proficiency Preparation
n Street
4022
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PIANO LESSONS
Experienced Piano/Theory Teacher
now accepting new students
Individual Instruction for All Ages
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Home-based Professional Music Studio
Royal Conservatory Exam Preparation
University Piano Proficiency Preparation
Beth Hickey, BA (MUS)
North London
bhickey57@hotmail.com 519-432-4022

54 | November/December 2018
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
Lightfoot — at Budweiser Gardens on
Saturday, November 24 (8 pm). How much
longer can the venerable Lightfoot keep doing
this? Catch him while you can.
Colin Linden
Canadian roots music everywhere-man
Colin Linden is at Aeolian Hall on Thursday,
November 29 (8 pm). The multi-awardwinning
Linden is one third of Blackie and the
Rodeo Kings, an in-demand record producer
with over 70 albums to his credit, musical
director of the hit TV show Nashville, and a
guitarist-for-hire to the stars, including Bob
Dylan, Emmylou Harris, Robert Plant, Alison
Krauss. Need we say more? Oh yeah, he has 13
solo albums to his credit too.
John Prine
Now here’s a name from the storied past:
John Prine. The American folk troubadour
plays Centennial Hall on Saturday, December
8 (8 pm). Once spoken of in the same breath
as Dylan, Prine never became a superstar. He
just continued to write intelligent, heartfelt
songs and play them in his inimitable style.
He’s still doing it. His latest CD, The Tree of
Forgiveness, the latest in a string of releases
dating back to 1971, came out earlier this year.
Forgotten about Prine? Refresh your memory
here: goo.gl/f8qm6w.
Sunfest is bringing prolific jazzman
Michael Kaeshammer to Aeolian Hall on
Thursday, December 13 (8 pm). Kaeshammer
is the interesting dude who discovered his
love of boogie-woogie and stride piano as a
teen while living in his native Germany, before
emigrating with his family to BC. Twenty-two
years and 12 albums later, you’d have to say he
made a success of it here. He was nominated
for a Juno for his last album, his eighth nod
(he’s won twice). Don’t know Kaeshammer’s
music? Check it out here: goo.gl/sn4uhe.
And finally,
with Christmas
done and
dusted, why
not lighten
the midwinter
blues
with Martha
Wainwright.
She’s at
Aeolian Hall
on Wednesday,
January
16 (8 pm),
along with
special guest
Martha Wainwright
Beyries, an
up-and-coming
Montreal singer-songwriter. If ever a
performer had pedigree, it’s Wainwright:
daughter of Kate McGarrigle (of the
McGarrigle Sisters) and Loudon Wainwright
III, and sister of Rufus. Her music is raw and
honest. She’s touring a new album, Goodnight
City, billed as a return to the form of her
career-making 2005 debut. Martha rocks.
GERRY BLACKWELL is a London-based freelance
writer.

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
November/December 2018 | 55
Recipes
Farm to Table
Celebrating Stratford Chefs School Alumni,
Recipes & Perth County Producers
By Andrew Coppolino
Review and Recipe Selections by TRACY TURLIN
My approach to life and work
could be kindly described as
scattered so I’ve always been a
touch envious of people who are
truly passionate about one thing. When that
focus is aimed at celebrating and promoting
their community, it’s a beautiful thing. When
they’re in the food industry, it’s also delicious.
This fall, that delicious thing is Farm
to Table: Celebrating Stratford Chefs School
Alumni, Recipes & Perth County Producers
(Andrew Coppolino, Blue Moon Publishers).
Andrew Coppolino is the editor of Waterloo
Region Eats, a food blog that I spent way too
much time reading while I should have been
writing this review. He’s also a food columnist
for CBC Radio Waterloo, has written for a host
of other respected food publications, and makes
regular contributions to Eatdrink’s Waterloo
Region & Wellington County editions. As far as
I can tell, he only takes time out from writing
about food long enough to eat food.
Coppolino is a champion for innovative
cooking done by knowledgeable chefs using
the best local products available. In Farm
to Table he brings together a
number of people who love
this idea as much as he does.
He introduces the reader to the
Stratford Chefs School and the
Perth County producers who are
affiliated with it.
Joe Mandel of The Church,
Jim Morris of Rundles, and
Eleanor Kane of The Old Prune
began the school in 1983. They
knew they needed good local
talent and saw an opportunity
to retain the chefs that worked
during the November to March
off-season in Stratford. Instead
Author Andrew Coppolino
of being laid
off or moving
on, these
chefs were
now able
to teach,
giving local
budding
chefs the
opportunity
to train
with the
best.
Students were
able to gain valuable experience in
the kitchens of the three founding restaurants.
SCS has always focused on the relationship
between the farm and the kitchen, recognizing
the importance of local, seasonal ingredients
that allow chefs to express the nature of the
region in their dishes. It’s about more than
food; it’s about respect for the work involved in
producing high quality products.
SCS is a not-for-profit organization that
offers well-rounded programs
to prepare students for many
aspects of the food industry.
I love that it also offers
recreational workshops for
adventurous home cooks
and a one-week exploratory
course for those who want to
find out what the industry
demands and offers. The
school produces chefs, food
entrepreneurs, writers and
photographers.
Terry Manzo is one of
Stratford Chefs School’s first
graduates and has been a

56 | November/December 2018
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
professional freelance photographer for 30
years. The book is full of her vibrant, energetic
photos. Many of the shots look deceptively
casual until you notice the brilliant use of light
and shadow that makes subjects seem to glow.
Each recipe in Farm to Table is the result of the
pairing of a chef with one of his or her favourite
producers and includes a profile of both.
Author Kathleen Sloan-McIntosh owns Black
Dog Village Pub & Bistro in Bayfield. With SCS
graduate Nathaniel Beattie as executive chef,
Black Dog works to expand the farm-to-table
concept in Huron County. Gerhard Metzger has
run Metzger’s Meat Products Inc. in Hensall
since 1990. He works with local farmers to
provide specialty cuts for restaurant and retail
sales. Sloan-McIntosh uses
Metzger’s pork to create Char
Siu Pork Shoulder. It’s simply
tender bits of pork shoulder
slow cooked in a sweet,
spicy, Chinese BBQ sauce
and garnished with green
onion and sesame seeds. The
dish can be served as a main
course or in lettuce cups as a
fun appetizer.
Sean Collins is the
executive Chef at The Red
Rabbit, a worker-owned
restaurant in downtown
Stratford where they strive
to do everything as well
as possible and seem to
have a blast doing it. Max
Lass of Church Hill Farm
aims to provide “high
quality, humanely raised
pork, lamb, beef and fowl”.
This family-owned farm
completes the farm-totable
loop by collecting
vegetable trimmings from
restaurants and mash from
craft breweries to feed to
the animals. Collins gives us
Charcoal-Grilled Church Hill
Farm Lamb with Herbs and
Freekeh. Freekeh, the grain of
young durum wheat, roasted
and cracked, makes the
stuffing for a butterflied leg
of lamb that is then grilled to
perfection.
SCS is a national
success because it is a local
Char Sui Pork Shoulder
champion. It teaches professionals and
amateurs alike that the heart of any good
dish, fruitful business or successful restaurant
is the relationship between people and place.
It’s the magic that happens when all these
good things come together to be greater than
the sum of their parts.
TRACY TURLIN is a freelance writer and dog groomer
in London. Reach her at tracyturlin@gmail.com
Recipes excerpted from Farm to Table: Celebrating
Stratford Chefs School Alumni, Recipes & Perth County
Producers reproduced by arrangement with the
Publisher. All rights reserved.

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
Char Sui Pork Shoulder
Collaborators:
Kathleen Sloan-McIntosh, Black Dog Village Pub & Bistro
Gerhard Metzger, Metzger’s Meat Products Inc.
FOR THE CHAR SIU
½ cup hoisin sauce
¾ cup liquid honey
½ cup soy sauce
¼ cup shaoxing (Chinese cooking wine)
2 tsp Chinese 5-spice powder
2 tbsp fresh gingerroot, grated
8 cloves garlic, finely minced
½ tsp red chili flakes (optional)
FOR THE PORK
4 lb (1.8 kg) boneless pork shoulder, excess fat
trimmed, cut into 2-inch (5 cm) chunks
2 tbsp olive oil
1 large onion, sliced
½ tsp salt
½ tsp freshly ground black pepper
TO FINISH THE DISH
Sesame seeds
Finely chopped green onion
Butter lettuce
METHOD
Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C).
Choose a large, oven-proof baking dish for the pork.
Add the pork chunks to the dish along with the olive oil
and sliced onion. Add salt and pepper and toss together
thoroughly. Use heavyweight aluminum foil to cover the
dish snugly. Place in the preheated oven and bake for 1
hour.
After an hour, pull the dish from the oven, remove the foil
and add the prepared sauce to the pork. Stir this mixture
well into the pork and the liquid that has accumulated: it
is important not to drain this liquid.
Return the dish to the oven and continue to bake for
another 30 minutes. Then, give the mixture another stir
and return to the oven for another 30 minutes. At this
point, test a piece of the pork to see if it is done to your
liking — it should be tender but not falling apart. If it is
as you like it, remove from the oven, sprinkle with sesame
seeds and chopped green onion and serve with butter
lettuce. If you continue baking, be careful not to overbake,
otherwise the pork will become too dry.
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58 | November/December 2018
Charcoal-Grilled Church Hill Farm Lamb
with Herbs and Freekeh
Collaborators:
Sean Collins, The Red Rabbit
Max Lass, Church Hill Farm
INGREDIENTS:
1 fresh boneless free-range lamb leg, butterflied
¼ cup pepper, fresh ground
¼ cup cumin, toasted and ground
3 tbsp butter
6 oz (170g) pancetta or cured pork, small dice
1 large onion, minced
8 cloves fresh garlic, minced
Freekeh* (or farro), cooked like pasta in boiling
salted water until tender, cooled
kosher salt
1 lemon (for juice and zest)
2 eggs
½ cup panko bread crumbs
½ cup fresh chopped herbs (use whatever herbs
you like!)
olive oil to rub meat
*freekeh is harvested grains
from green durum wheat
that is roasted and dried
to create its unique smoky
flavour.
TO FINISH THE DISH
Sugar snap peas
Butter
Mustard
Feta, crumbled
EQUIPMENT NEEDED
Charcoal grill, fire pit, or
propane barbecue
Good quality charcoal
Butcher twine
Probe thermometer
METHOD
The night before prepare the
lamb: spread lamb out on a
cutting board or sheet pan and
season generously with pepper
and cumin on all sides. Return
the seasoned lamb to the fridge
and let it sit for 2–12 hours (roll it
up to save space).
To make the stuffing, add the
butter to a large skillet and cook
over medium heat until just
bubbling. Add the pancetta and
cook until lightly crisp. Add the
onion and garlic and cook until
translucent. Add the cooked
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
freekeh, salt and pepper and lemon. Remove from the
heat and let cool slightly. Stir in the eggs, panko and fresh
herbs and taste to adjust seasoning as needed. Refrigerate
overnight.
The next day, light the charcoal and let it burn until it
has created a nice bed of coals in a charcoal barbecue or
fire-pit with a rack. Have a second pile of burning charcoal
ready to replenish the fire, if needed. If using propane,
preheat the grill to medium heat.
In the meantime, finish the lamb. Remove meat and
stuffing from the fridge and spread the lamb onto a metal
tray or in a roasting pan. Season generously with salt.
Spoon the stuffing in a row slightly off the centre of the
meat to form a cylinder, almost from end to end. Roll the
meat over and shape it into a cylinder with the seam on
the bottom. Tie the cylinder tightly with 4 or 5 pieces of
butcher twine, tucking any stuffing back into the cylinder.

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
“a gastronomical landmark for over 22 years”
Season the outside of the meat with salt, rub lightly with
olive oil and set aside.
When your grill is hot enough that you can’t hold your
hand over for 5 seconds, carefully place lamb roast on
the grill. Grill on all sides until golden brown and slightly
charred (about 2-4 minutes per side). With a probe
thermometer, check internal temperature every 10–15
minutes. Roast until the thermometer reaches 135°–145°F
(57°–63°C). If internal temperature is not reached and the
surface of the meat is getting too dark, simply push coals
to one side and continue cooking over indirect heat until
finished. If using a propane barbecue, turn burners off
on one side and move lamb to that side and close the lid.
Remove the roast to a platter, cover with foil and let it rest
for 15 to 30 minutes (or longer).
Remove the string and carve the lamb with your sharpest
knife. Serve with fresh sugar snap peas sautéed in butter,
your favourite mustard and crumbled local feta.
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60 | November/December 2018
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Books
My 25 Years in Provence
Reflections on Then and Now
by Peter Mayle
Review by DARIN COOK
Some books are so seminal that from
their first appearance they become
untouchable, iconic archetypes,
paving the way for future authors
to imitate, but never replicate — a good
storytelling recipe. I knew I was onto
something of this calibre when I first read A
Year in Provence by Peter Mayle when it came
out in 1989. Mayle knew it too, since he has
written many sequels that thread together his
unique and exquisitely described outlook on
French food and culture. It started out as “a
year” and now, after a quarter of a century of
Provencal living, Mayle is taking a look back in
My 25 Years in Provence (Appetite by Random
House, 2018). Provence is truly a magical place
that spoke to Mayle through its food — a
place where vin rose is “a taste of summer in
the glass”, where making goat cheese is an art
form, where eating a black truffle on foie gras
is “the closest thing on earth to having heaven
in your mouth”, and where the night markets
provide the most pleasant grocery shopping
experience he can ever imagine.
By taking up residence in such a unique
locale, Mayle grew accustomed to picking up
on the trends of the seasons by observing
what farmers were up to and listening to the
gossip of the patrons in local cafés. Provence
is an agricultural
region bursting
with grape
vineyards,
olive groves,
fig trees, and
asparagus
fields. It also
has a bit
of the wild
side with truffle
hunters and their golden-nosed
dogs secretly plying their trade to keep their
sources out of the sight of others, while game
hunters with noisier instruments roam the
woods in search of wild boar. Throughout
the year, food festivals are governed by the
seasons to display regional delicacies — rice,
olives, truffles, lemons, melons, garlic. Mayle
writes, “These are informal, good-natured
affairs, organized by people whose sole desire
is to give you a taste of pleasure, whether your
particular weakness is a fresh sardine or an
elderly cheese.” He continues by saying the
range of festivals “supports the widely held
conviction that, wherever you are in Provence,
you need never go hungry.”
Just as Mayle navigated towns, fields and
forests of the French countryside, so does his
writing wander across Provence to suggest
some of his favourite lunch items at favourite
restaurants in favourite towns. With dining
tips from the likes of Mayle, we could not ask
for more as readers. One beloved regional
speciality is bouillabaisse made with fresh
seafood gathered off the coast of Marseille,
which he describes as “part soup, part fish
stew; delicious, but difficult to control. Many
an immaculate shirtfront has suffered from
Author Peter Mayle

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
garlic-stains and it is a wise customer who
asks for two large napkins.”
His writings about Provence have inevitably
caused others to follow him. His books have
drawn attention to the region and tourism
has blossomed, for better or worse. Certain
things have changed because of tourism.
Mayle hates that cafés have been replaced by
boutiques that tend to be more profitable than
selling cups of coffee. But it is the qualities
that remain the same, that have endured
the test of time, that have withstood the
invasion of foreigners, that are the qualities
that made him fall in love with Provence
in the first place: the slow pace of life, the
marvellous weather, spirited games of boules
(lawn bowling), market shopping with fresh
ingredients unhampered by plastic packaging
or metal cans, and a regional anise-flavoured
alcohol called pastis.
Even though I have been a fan of Mayle’s
books since he began writing more than a
quarter of a century ago, I was sadly unaware
that he had passed away. I had been reading
this book with the same enjoyment as always
when I learned from the biographical insert
on the back cover than he had died earlier
this year, making this book a posthumous
publication and his final words on Provence.
Even though I missed his obituary in the social
media news feeds back in January 2018, I
reverently bowed my head at the start of each
new chapter to honour his soul. It was a good
run and I am sad this is his last book. The world
lost a great author with the death of Mayle this
year, but this author’s life gave Provence to the
world in a way only he could.
DARIN COOK is a regular Eatdrink contributor who
lives and works in Chatham-Kent.
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62 | November/December 2018
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The Lighter Side
Salvaging the Magic of Eggnog
By DARIN COOK
I
have noticed that eggnog is now
being stocked in grocery stores long
before Christmas, infringing not
only on American Thanksgiving in
November, but also Canadian Thanksgiving
and Halloween in October. These are three
significant holidays being upstaged by
Christmas cheer before its time. Being in
stores earlier merely widens the window of
opportunity for it to be consumed.
“What is that doing here?” my son asked
last year, pointing at a
wall of eggnog cartons
in a grocery display. “It’s
not Christmas yet, is it?”
It was early October,
with several non-yuletide
festivities still to come.
My two sons believe
eggnog was created for
Santa Claus, and that
normal humans are
allowed to join in by purchasing the cartons
sold at stores, so usually it wasn’t until
December that we started buying eggnog
regularly to get the Christmas cheer rolling.
The sign over the eggnog display
proclaimed “Not Just for Christmas
Anymore!” But I think most people feel
that eggnog IS just for Christmas. Who was
this sign trying to fool? Since I love eggnog
so much, I guess it fooled me. Cast under
the spell of that grocery store marketing,
I decided to see if a Christmas beverage
could hold its own when straying from its
intended holiday. When I brought home
the first carton one week before Canadian
Thanksgiving, my wife rolled her eyes.
“What is that doing here?” she questioned.
“It’s not December yet.”
I shared her misgivings, but I drank my
first cup anyway. It tasted great, because the
sweet, creamy nectar had not touched my lips
for over ten months. But it felt odd being out
of season.
After learning that December 24th has been
declared National Eggnog Day, I considered
trying my hand at creating homemade
eggnog. Alton Brown, the culinary genius of
Food Network fame, is my go-to guy when
experimenting with new recipes and I found
an eggnog recipe in his book, Good Eats 2:
The Middle Years. Alton strongly advises
that “the key to success in making eggnog is
patience” and I went into eggnog production
hoping that I had the stamina to keep up.
There was a lot of stand
mixer beating involved
(where the patience
comes in handy). The
combination of eggs,
sugar, milk, cream,
and nutmeg ended
up being a delicious
version of eggnog
like we had never had
from a carton. Alton’s
recipe calls for the addition of rum, brandy, or
bourbon, but that would come after the kids
went to bed.
Since it had started appearing early, I’d had
my fill of more eggnog than most years. Even
so, I convinced my family that making a fresh
batch on National Eggnog Day could be our
new tradition, to serve Santa the best we had
to offer. Before bedtime, my sons placed a
mug of eggnog and a plate of cookies by the
chimney. When they weren’t looking I poured
a shot of rum into the mug. As Christmas
Eve drew to a close I imbibed one more glass
of our homemade batch, just as Santa would
do when he arrived. Mine also had an extra
dash of rum — it seemed wrong, on National
Eggnog Day, to not enjoy one last swig in the
most appropriate way before retiring it until
next Christmas. Or October.
DARIN COOK is a regular Eatdrink contributor who
lives and works in Chatham-Kent.

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
November/December 2018 | 63
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64 | November/December 2018
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