Eatdrink Waterloo & Wellington #4 December 2018/January 2019

The Local Food & Drink Magazine Serving Waterloo Region and Wellington County

The Local Food & Drink Magazine Serving Waterloo Region and Wellington County


Create successful ePaper yourself

Turn your PDF publications into a flip-book with our unique Google optimized e-Paper software.

Issue #W4 | <strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong>/<strong>January</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink<br />

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Loloan Lobby Bar<br />

South East Asian Eclecticism<br />

in Uptown <strong>Waterloo</strong><br />


Swine and Vine<br />

A Focus on Sharing in Kitchener<br />

Artisanal & Farmstead Cheese<br />

Meet the Makers & Mongers<br />

Farm to Table<br />

A Cookbook Celebrating<br />

Stratford Chefs School<br />

Our<br />

Holiday<br />

Issue!<br />

Wine, Beer & Event<br />

Suggestions for<br />

Celebrating the<br />

Season<br />

Serving <strong>Waterloo</strong> Region<br />

& <strong>Wellington</strong> County<br />


2 |<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong>/<strong>January</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />






eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

You’ll discover unique and individual<br />

gift ideas when you stroll our festive<br />

streets. We’ve made it easy to kick<br />

off your holiday shopping with<br />

The Christmas Trail – six gifts<br />

for just $30*. And because it’s<br />

Stratford, be on the lookout<br />

for seven swans a swimming.<br />

Purchase your pass<br />

at Stratford Tourism,<br />

47 Downie Street.<br />

visitstratford.ca<br />

*plus HST

eatdrink<br />

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine<br />

eatdrinkmagazine<br />

@eatdrinkmag<br />

eatdrinkmag<br />

eatdrink.ca<br />

Think Global. Read Local.<br />

Publisher<br />

Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca<br />

Managing Editor Cecilia Buy – cbuy@eatdrink.ca<br />

Food Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca<br />

Editorial Consultant Andrew Coppolino<br />

Copy Editor Kym Wolfe<br />

Social Media Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca<br />

Advertising Sales Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca<br />

Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca<br />

Stacey McDonald – stacey@eatdrink.ca<br />

Terry-Lynn “TL” Sim – TL@eatdrink.ca<br />

Finances<br />

Ann Cormier – finance@eatdrink.ca<br />

Graphics<br />

Chris McDonell, Cecilia Buy<br />

Writers<br />

Darin Cook, Andrew Coppolino,<br />

Gary Killops, Bryan Lavery,<br />

George Macke, Nancy McSloy,<br />

Tracy Turlin<br />

Photographers Steve Grimes, Matthew Mannell<br />

Telephone & Fax 519-434-8349<br />

Mailing Address 525 Huron Street, London ON N5Y 4J6<br />

Website<br />

City Media<br />

Cecilia Buy<br />

Printing<br />

Sportswood Printing<br />


The Loloan Lobby<br />

Bar creates a striking<br />

image with its light<br />

fixtures and artworkpannelled<br />

ceiling<br />

leading the eye<br />

upwards. What’s on<br />

the plate is equally<br />

captivating. Read the<br />

story by Bryan Lavery<br />

on page 7.<br />

Photo by Matthew<br />

Mannell (www.pbase.com/ricked_wicky)<br />

© <strong>2018</strong> <strong>Eatdrink</strong> Inc. and the writers.<br />

All rights reserved.<br />

Reproduction or duplication of any material published in<br />

<strong>Eatdrink</strong> or on <strong>Eatdrink</strong>.ca is strictly prohibited without<br />

the written permis sion of the Publisher. <strong>Eatdrink</strong> has a regular<br />

printed circulation of 20,000 issues published six times annually.<br />

The views or opinions expressed in the information, content and/<br />

or advertisements published in <strong>Eatdrink</strong> or online are solely<br />

those of the author(s) and do not necessarily represent those of<br />

the Publisher. The Publisher welcomes submissions but accepts no<br />

responsibility for unsolicited material.<br />

Serving up<br />

Great<br />

partnerships<br />

commercial | digital | wide format | design<br />

Let us help with your next project...<br />

519.866.5558 | ben@sportswood.on.ca<br />


Contents<br />

Issue #W4 | <strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong>/<strong>January</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

The Holiday Issue<br />

Publisher’s Notes<br />

<strong>Eatdrink</strong> and Be Merry!<br />

Food, Drink, Family & Friends<br />


6<br />

7<br />

Beer<br />

Cold, and Dark<br />

Malty Darker Beers for Winter<br />


32<br />

Restaurants<br />

South East Asian Eclecticism<br />

Loloan Lobby Bar in Uptown <strong>Waterloo</strong><br />


7<br />

A Focus on Sharing<br />

Swine and Vine, in Kitchener<br />


12<br />

Culinary Retail<br />

Artisanal and Farmstead Cheese<br />

Meet the Makers and Mongers<br />


16<br />

Road Trips<br />

Take Your Time<br />

Discovering the Pleasures of St. Marys<br />


22<br />

12<br />

32<br />

36<br />

Wine<br />

The Gift of Wine<br />

Suggestions for this Holiday Season<br />


36<br />

Recipes<br />

Farm to Table<br />

Celebrating Stratford Chefs School<br />

Review & Recipe Selections by TRACY TURLIN<br />

39<br />

Books<br />

Provence Through the Years<br />

My 25 Years in Provence<br />

Review by DARIN COOK<br />

43<br />

The Lighter Side<br />

Salvaging the Magic of Eggnog<br />


46<br />

The BUZZ<br />

Culinary Community Notes<br />

26<br />

16<br />

We are pleased to be reviewing Farm to Table: Celebrating Stratford<br />

Chefs School Alumni, Recipes & Perth County Producers<br />

on its own merit, but doubly so because it is authored<br />

by <strong>Eatdrink</strong> contributor and editorial advisor Andrew<br />

Coppolino. Andrew, familiar to most readers through his<br />

heavy media presence in local print, television, and online,<br />

is an invaluable member of our team serving <strong>Waterloo</strong><br />

Region & <strong>Wellington</strong> County. We’ve excepted a couple of<br />

recipes from the book (which would make an excellent gift!),<br />

with photos from Stratford’s pre-eminent photographer Terry<br />

Manzo, a Stratford Chefs School alumna herself. Enjoy!<br />

39<br />


<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong>/<strong>January</strong> <strong>2019</strong>| 5<br />

# dtklove<br />

5 19.745.8478<br />

twhsocial.com<br />

1 King Street West, Kitchener

6 |<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong>/<strong>January</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

Publisher’s Notes<br />

<strong>Eatdrink</strong> and Be Merry!<br />

Food, Drink, Family & Friends<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />


We hope this issue will guide you<br />

to the experts and resources<br />

that will enrich your holiday<br />

eating and drinking experiences.<br />

While secondary to the people<br />

that we gather with — work<br />

colleagues, neighbours and<br />

friends, and family — the food and drink that<br />

we consume is a huge part of the festivities.<br />

There are plenty of excellent suggestions here.<br />

Traditions take centre stage for many of<br />

us, enhancing our connections and renewing<br />

precious memories. Fruitcake often takes a<br />

beating in popular culture, yet for some, this<br />

is a real treat. For me, my mother’s “Hello<br />

eatdrink.ca<br />

Dolly” squares are my favourite holiday<br />

indulgence, and I believe my generation’s<br />

execution of the recipe is true and delicious.<br />

But I’m also game to try something new, being<br />

old enough to remember the<br />

introduction of delicacies<br />

that are now firm traditions.<br />

Perhaps that will happen again this year.<br />

I’m amazed at the wealth of exciting<br />

opportunities outlined in the following pages,<br />

but trust we will also remember those less<br />

fortunate. Spread some kindness. Peace,<br />

CHRIS McDONELL founded <strong>Eatdrink</strong> in 2007.<br />

Anna Mae’s Christmas Baking!<br />

Let us do your<br />

baking for you!<br />

17+ Homemade<br />

Christmas Dainties<br />

to choose from!<br />

Family Owned & Operated<br />

Mennonite Restaurant and Bakery<br />

Homemade cooking & baking<br />

made fresh daily from scratch<br />

using the best ingredients!<br />

• 20+ Pies! • Muffins • Squares<br />

• Cookies • Sweet Buns • Cheesecakes<br />

• Tarts • Cakes & Cupcakes • Donuts<br />

• Bread & Dinner Rolls<br />

www.annamaes.ca<br />

519-595-4407<br />

Cash or Debit<br />

Accepted<br />

Monday–Saturday 7am–8pm • Closed Sundays & Holidays<br />

Please phone ahead to pre-order baking to avoid disappointment!<br />

4060 Line 72, Millbank ON

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong>/<strong>January</strong> <strong>2019</strong>| 7<br />

Restaurants<br />

South East Asian Eclecticism<br />

Loloan Lobby Bar in Uptown <strong>Waterloo</strong><br />


The partners behind<br />

Loloan Lobby Bar are<br />

seasoned restaurateurs.<br />

The primary partners<br />

include Paul Boehmer as General<br />

Manager and Head Chef, Renee<br />

Lees, and Josh Koehler, former<br />

partner at Jane Bond and owner<br />

of the Starlight Social Club.<br />

Leanne Amort, manager of<br />

Bhima’s Warung, and Jon Rennie,<br />

Executive Chef at both Bhima’s and<br />

Loloan, are secondary partners.<br />

Boehmer is a George Brown College<br />

graduate. His well-rounded career<br />

includes apprenticeships at Michelin-starred<br />

hotels Langdon Hall (a Relais & Châteaux<br />

property) and the iconic Three Small Rooms<br />

at Windsor Arms, before opening Bhima’s<br />

Warung in 1994. Boehmer travelled all over<br />

the Indonesian archipelago and beyond<br />

on research trips to spend time with home<br />

cooks and document recipes. He owned<br />

and operated a fine dining restaurant in<br />

Bali for five years, which became part of the<br />

inspiration for Loloan.<br />

When Boehmer opened Bhima’s it was<br />

an ambitious undertaking, embracing the<br />

spectrum of regional cuisines, and a variety<br />

of ingredients and cooking methods largely<br />

The entrance<br />

unfamiliar to most diners. Boehmer has made<br />

a point of evangelizing cuisines that are less<br />

well known while not necessarily sticking to a<br />

strictly codified authenticity. That allows room<br />

for creativity and high quality alternative<br />

ingredients that are locally sourced.<br />

The Loloan partners travelled to Southeast<br />

Asia in <strong>January</strong> of 2017. It was an opportunity<br />

to get to know each other better and to get<br />

the lay of the land, culinarily speaking. They<br />

sought out the lobby bars in luxury hotels<br />

The interior<br />

The bar

8 |<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong>/<strong>January</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

From the top, Nem Trio finds its inspiration in Singapore,<br />

Hanoi and Thailand. Centre is the Crested Partridge,<br />

brined in ginger and roasted with lemongrass and citrus.<br />

Below, the Laarb Kwai features fresh Ontario water<br />

buffalo in a traditional Laotian “tartare” recipe.<br />

where they could enjoy the amenities offered<br />

to guests and visitors. This is how they came<br />

up with the idea of modelling Loloan after a<br />

lobby bar. Loloan translated means “where the<br />

river meets the ocean,” and the pool formed in<br />

this convergence is called a loloan.<br />

Loloan’s décor is elegant, with the owners’<br />

personal tastes expressed in the combination<br />

of Art Deco opulence paired with colonial<br />

Indonesian eclecticism. The three-sided<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

marble bar seats 25, with comfortable chairs<br />

upholstered with soft turquoise leather in the<br />

lounge area. Art Deco statuettes of women<br />

holding illuminated globes adorn the top<br />

of the quartz bar every few feet like chic<br />

hood ornaments. Stylish illuminated globe<br />

pendants are suspended overhead, adding to<br />

the bar’s timeless ambience. There are heavy<br />

revolving doors at the entrance, an intricate<br />

Art Deco-inspired ceiling, tiled floors, a rotary<br />

phone from the 1930s, and elephant-branded<br />

accessories and matchboxes. There are three<br />

two-tops in the front window, from which to<br />

watch passersby, and a seasonal street-side<br />

patio for alfresco eating and drinking called<br />

the Tuk Tuk Teras. The dining room seats<br />

around 40 in elegant booths and buttontufted<br />

banquettes. A well-placed large window<br />

above the banquettes gives patrons a birdseye<br />

view into the kitchen. Upstairs above<br />

the main dining room is the Map Room.<br />

The luxurious room is reserved for private<br />

parties and requires reservations and menu<br />

consultation in advance.<br />

Chef Jon Rennie, Boehmer’s protégé and<br />

former sous-chef at Bhima’s, is now chef<br />

at Loloan. His menus are upscale sensory<br />

experiences, meticulously conceptualized<br />

with sumptuously textured offerings that<br />

are tangy, spicy, aromatic and herbal. Like<br />

fresh sambal, the flavour building Indonesian<br />

hot sauce, Loloan’s cuisine packs heat and<br />

flavour in equal parts. Menus are gastronomic<br />

forays through the regional and cross-cultural<br />

cuisines of Southeast Asia, with homage being<br />

paid to Indonesia, India, Vietnam, Singapore<br />

and Thailand. Appetizers are modelled on the<br />

offerings of the small family-owned shacks<br />

and stalls – warungs – that sell street food<br />

alongside Indonesia’s roadsides.<br />

Traditional recipes often comprise up to a<br />

dozen herb and spice ingredients to achieve<br />

authenticity. Galangal and lemongrass may<br />

be essential to building Indonesian flavours,<br />

but the crushing and grinding of ingredients<br />

such as chilli peppers and spices, and grinding<br />

herbs and even fibrous ingredients like<br />

turmeric, ginger and kaffir lime leaves with<br />

mortar and pestle are essential. Indonesians<br />

have developed distinctly original gastronomic<br />

themes with lemongrass, galangal, tamarind,<br />

turmeric ginger and cardamom.<br />

Nem Trio finds its inspiration in Singapore,<br />

Hanoi and Thailand and consists of seafood<br />

salpicón (a combination of ingredients<br />

mixed in sort of a salad) in rice paper with

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong>/<strong>January</strong> <strong>2019</strong>| 9<br />

Wes Klassen, a Certified Sommelier, is pleased to guide<br />

patrons (above). The Butterfly Pea Flower Martini (right)<br />

is made with vodka, lychee, butterfly pea flower, served<br />

with salty-sweet pretzels on a wooden board.<br />

lemongrass sambal; ca cuon thit is a catfish<br />

and sausage fried roll with sour cherry nuoc<br />

(dipping sauce); and ginger-cured arctic char is<br />

served with somtom (green papaya salad) roll<br />

and crab oil. Try the Kwai Massaman, curry<br />

bison short rib, pickled mustard green, chili<br />

jam, morning glory, mushroom salad and rice;<br />

or Gaeng Dtaeng Pet with roasted Muscovy<br />

duck, lychee curry, oyster omelette, smoky<br />

gapi rice (shrimp paste fried rice) and prik<br />

nam plaa (classic Thai chilli and fish sauce);<br />

or Moo Parlow which is pork neck slowly<br />

braised in star anise caramel liquor, steamed<br />

rice noodle, crackling, pickled duck egg and<br />

condiments. Asam Laska features a terrine<br />

of seafood, pork meatballs, laksa noodle and<br />

smoky tamarind broth with condiments that<br />

make it crackle. The Laarb Kwai features<br />

fresh Ontario water buffalo prepared<br />

using a traditional Laotian ‘tartare’ recipe.<br />

Hati Gamuck is a terrine of foie gras with<br />

heartnuts, buntut (oxtail) gelée, tourtière<br />

croûte and kumquat sambal. Chef recently<br />

introduced crested partridge brined in ginger<br />

and roasted with lemongrass and citrus,<br />

served with fenugreek and yogurt sauce,<br />

seasonal vegetables, chutney and belachaung<br />

(a traditional condiment of fried onions, dried<br />

shrimp, ginger and red chillies).<br />

There are a la carte and weekly prix fixe and<br />

late night street food menus and snacks at the<br />

bar. The smartly-attired professional staff take<br />

their well-crafted cocktails seriously and the<br />

cocktail menu is influenced by flavours and<br />

combinations from across the globe. Butterfly<br />

Pea Flower Martini is vodka, lychee, butterfly<br />

pea flower and salty-sweet pretzels served on<br />

a wooden board. It finds its inspiration at the<br />

Siam Kempinski Hotel in Bangkok. The cocktail<br />

contains butterfly pea flower, which causes<br />

the drink to change from blue to violet when<br />

you add the sidecar of lychee. The Balineseinspired<br />

Ingat (which literally means take care)<br />

comprises gin, wild gunung honey, fresh kunyit<br />

(turmeric), tamarind and pomelo.<br />

There is an extensive bourbon and whisky<br />

list. Another of Loloan’s strengths is the<br />

impeccable Wes Klassen, a certified sommelier<br />

who you may know from Bhima’s Warung,<br />

Langdon Hall or the former Berlin. He<br />

skillfully adds another dimension to your<br />

fine dining enjoyment by guiding patrons<br />

in pairings that balance the flavours and<br />

idiosyncrasies of the cuisine.<br />

Loloan Lobby Bar<br />

14 Princess Street West, <strong>Waterloo</strong><br />

519-883-1010<br />

sunday–wednesday 4 pm–12 midnight<br />

thursday–saturday 4 pm–1 am<br />

happy hour: 4 pm–5 pm for cocktails and<br />

snacks at the bar only<br />

dinner: served from 5 pm<br />

<strong>Eatdrink</strong> Food Editor BRYAN LAVERY brings years of<br />

experience in the restaurant and hospitality industry as<br />

a chef, restaurateur, and partner in the Lavery Culinary<br />

Group. Always on the lookout for the stories that <strong>Eatdrink</strong><br />

should be telling, he helps shape the magazine both under<br />

his byline and behind the scenes.<br />

Kitchener-based photographer MATTHEW MANNELL<br />

shows online galleries at www.pbase.com/ricked_wicky.

10 |<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong>/<strong>January</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Stratford is more than<br />

great theatre<br />

visitstratford.ca<br />

um<br />

A restaurant inspired by<br />

local ingredients.<br />

Run by workers.<br />

Owned by workers.<br />

Shared by the Community.<br />

Open Thursday through Monday<br />

Reservations Recommended<br />

64 <strong>Wellington</strong> St, Stratford<br />

redrabbitresto.com<br />

519.305.6464<br />

@redrabbitresto<br />

global tapas with local ingredients<br />

fresh cocktails<br />

Perfect for dinner, drinks and long conversations<br />

Thursday through Sunday from 5pm<br />

85 Downie St, Stratford<br />

(next to Avon Theatre)<br />

519.305.8585<br />


<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

“A fun place to shop<br />

for housewares and gifts!”<br />

<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong>/<strong>January</strong> <strong>2019</strong>| 11<br />

Chalet Chic Serveware,<br />

a cozy feel for your holiday table.<br />

WATSON’S<br />


84 Ontario St. Stratford<br />

watsonsofstratford.com<br />


12 |<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong>/<strong>January</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

Restaurants<br />

A Focus on Sharing<br />

Swine and Vine, in Kitchener<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />


The concept for the cheekily<br />

named Kitchener restaurant<br />

Swine and Vine started with an<br />

entrepreneurial couple’s passion<br />

for food and cooking — and a dinner with a<br />

local restaurateur who directed the pair to<br />

an existing venue for sale on Kijiji. Jill Sadler<br />

had worked in the food and beverage industry<br />

before attending Wilfrid Laurier University<br />

to study criminology but was drawn back to<br />

restaurants. “After five years, I missed the<br />

industry. Doing something like Swine and<br />

Vine was always in the back of my mind,” she<br />

says. “Mica and I had tried to buy another<br />

location a few years ago, but there weren’t<br />

quite the right conditions. Then, when Ryan<br />

(Murphy) and Carly (Blasutti) were selling<br />

Swine and Vine owners Mica and Jill Sadler share a<br />

passion for food and cooking.<br />

Public, we talked and decided that this was the<br />

time to make it happen. It did, and within five<br />

days, away we went.”<br />

That was about a year ago, and Swine and<br />

Vine has continued to grow at its Lancaster<br />

Street location in Kitchener’s Bridgeport<br />

neighbourhood. It’s a unique and pleasantly<br />

comfortable 30-seat restaurant, within the<br />

extremely popular sharing plates-charcuterie<br />

board juggernaut that has become firmly<br />

embedded in the food and beverage industry.<br />

The approach derived from a perceived gap<br />

in the market that the pair had identified.<br />

“We’ve really enjoyed great food centres<br />

such as Toronto and Montreal and noticed<br />

that there were always restaurants focused<br />

on charcuterie,” says Jill, who is the face of<br />

the business. “It was just something that we<br />

were surprised Kitchener and <strong>Waterloo</strong> didn’t<br />

really have.” Mica Sadler, a veteran of the tech<br />

industry, works in a contributing capacity to<br />

the success and evolution of the restaurant. “I<br />

fill a role that helps the team here out as much<br />

The menu at Swine and Vine is oriented toward small<br />

plate and sharing items, including charcuterie.

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong>/<strong>January</strong> <strong>2019</strong>| 13<br />

as I can,” he says. “I’m learning as we go as well.”<br />

In terms of renovations to the space that was the very<br />

popular Public Kitchen and Bar, now located a few blocks<br />

south, the Swine and Vine bar with a half-dozen or so<br />

stools was re-fashioned and everything was brought up<br />

to code as a change in ownership usually warrants. “From<br />

the glass washer to sinks to glycol refrigeration unit, a<br />

lot had to be upgraded. And I’m from tech, so we had<br />

to have POS technology in the background,” says Mica.<br />

The kitchen was overhauled to include a 10-burner stove<br />

and hood, and fire suppression systems were upgraded.<br />

“We invested to make this a long-lasting business,” he<br />

adds. Outside the front door, a 12-seat patio built this<br />

past spring required a zone variance. Resolving that issue<br />

allowed additional summer seating.<br />

The menu, while not completely out of the realm of<br />

what Public was doing in the space, is oriented toward<br />

the small plate and sharing approach to food that<br />

customers were previously used to, according to Jill.<br />

That process of visiting the restaurant, sharing several<br />

plates and sitting for the evening is what the owners<br />

like to do — it made sense to them to continue to offer<br />

that to their clients. When it comes to restaurants, you<br />

Hand-crafted cocktails (top photo) are part<br />

of Jill Salder’s purview (above). The bar<br />

(below) was refashioned as part of recent<br />

renovations and upgrades.

14 |<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong>/<strong>January</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

The Swine and Vine menu includes an inspired “build your own<br />

board” option, with various meats, cheeses and condiments.<br />

have to know what you want in a concept and<br />

believe in it in order to convince someone else<br />

to buy into it. “It’s less about the appetizer,<br />

entrée and dessert approach,”she says.<br />

Her appreciation for the art and craft of<br />

charcuterie was deepened when she was part<br />

of the front-of-house staff at <strong>Waterloo</strong>’s Red<br />

House, where chef-owner Dan McCowan and<br />

then-chef Spencer Vella had been developing<br />

their program. “The preparation of charcuterie<br />

comes with a steep learning curve and<br />

involves a considerable investment of time,”<br />

Mica says. “But we haven’t deviated from what<br />

our goal was in the beginning,” adds Jill.<br />

The focus at Swine and Vine is sharing<br />

— the kitchen prepares a classic board with<br />

nduja and a seafood board, among others.<br />

The “Imposter” vegetarian board is popular.<br />

Menus are on large chalkboards on the wall,<br />

including the most popular “build<br />

your own board” where you select<br />

the meats, cheeses and condiments.<br />

Alternatively, you can create a small<br />

tasting menu drawing from the<br />

dozen or so sharing items. Features<br />

at the restaurant include a fondue<br />

special on Wednesdays, and a<br />

pint of Ontario beer and a pound<br />

of mussels on Thursdays. At the<br />

week’s end, the Saturday brunch<br />

menu includes eggs Benedict with<br />

brisket, drunken French toast, and<br />

a Caprese grilled cheese ($12-$16), to<br />

name a few. Elsewhere on the menu,<br />

you might notice unique “pulled”<br />

jackfruit spring rolls, a duck dish,<br />

sweetbreads and smoked Cheddar<br />

and stout dip. Boards like the “OG”<br />

can easily feed two, especially if<br />

you share a couple of appetizers:<br />

it’s home-made duck prosciutto,<br />

bresaola, terrine, pâté, three or four<br />

cheeses and bread, warmed olives<br />

and home-made crunchy mustard.<br />

Local sommelier and wine consultant<br />

Rebecca Pettigrew has created a<br />

list that blends old and new world<br />

wines, including several Spanish and<br />

Ontario selections that match the<br />

often meaty and salty items that<br />

characterize a charcuterie board.<br />

Jill Sadler takes care of the<br />

cocktail program. “Those, of course,<br />

are currently hugely popular and<br />

ours are hand-crafted with a menu<br />

that changes regularly. It plays<br />

on Old-Fashioneds and Caesars, and we<br />

just try to elevate them and do some cool<br />

interpretations,” she says.<br />

A year or so now into operations, many<br />

of the customers are repeat Swine and Vine<br />

visitors, and word-of-mouth — and a strong<br />

social media presence — are starting to<br />

expand that circle of guests. “A customer is a<br />

first-time visitor,” says Mica. “We don’t know<br />

them. They don’t know us, and they don’t<br />

know our menu. But a client is that person<br />

coming back again and again, and they bring<br />

other people. We see that time and again.”<br />

With any glitches and wobbles smoothed out<br />

in the restaurant’s relatively short life, Jill<br />

says they are now increasingly focused on the<br />

kitchen and getting as much done as possible<br />

in-house. That work lies with a tandem<br />

of co-sous chefs with different expertise.

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong>/<strong>January</strong> <strong>2019</strong>| 15<br />

adds, intimating that there is a future<br />

possibility next door. It’s evidence<br />

perhaps of both Sadlers thinking in<br />

terms of the entire organization as<br />

a whole and not just the atomistic<br />

elements of front-of-house, back-ofhouse,<br />

menus, revenue, expenses,<br />

and events. “We both have a vision<br />

that is looking to new avenues<br />

ahead,” Mica says.<br />

Gabby Crawford and Nathan Tripp, both<br />

having cooked at several other restaurants in<br />

<strong>Waterloo</strong> Region, split duties that include a<br />

growing catering business and collaborative<br />

projects. “We have just started a venture with<br />

Kitchener brewer Together We’re Bitter. We<br />

use their beer and make beer pepperettes and<br />

jerky. We’re packaging that, and they’re selling<br />

it at the brewery,” says Jill.<br />

Another project is a much bigger beast<br />

for Swine and Vine to wrangle. “We’d like to<br />

expand our footprint in this location,” she<br />

Swine and Vine<br />

Unit B-295 Lancaster St. W., Kitchener<br />

226-476-4418<br />

www.swineandvine.ca<br />

tuesday–thursday: 4 pm–11 pm<br />

friday: 4 pm–12 am<br />

saturday: 11 am–12 am<br />

sunday & monday: closed<br />

ANDREW COPPOLINO is a Kitchener-based writer<br />

and broadcaster. He is publisher of <strong>Waterloo</strong> Region<br />

Eats (waterlooregioneats.com). Andrew also serves as a<br />

regional <strong>Eatdrink</strong> Editorial Consultant.<br />


42 Ainslie Street North, Cambridge<br />

519 621 6988 • 1 800 387 7731<br />


39 Elgin Street South, Cambridge<br />

226 616 0720<br />

55 Wyndham Street North, Guelph<br />

519 265 8698

16 |<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong>/<strong>January</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Culinary Retail<br />

Artisanal and Farmstead Cheese<br />

Meet the Makers and Mongers<br />


Fifteen years ago Ruth Klahsen was the<br />

first artisan cheesemaker to receive<br />

recognition from both chefs and food<br />

critics in our part of the province. She<br />

touched off a revolution in the small batch,<br />

handcrafted cheese world and encouraged<br />

countless other artisans to follow in her<br />

footsteps. Her enterprise began in the heart<br />

of Amish country with the use of Mennonite<br />

cow’s milk and quickly became well known to<br />

chefs and culinary enthusiasts. Klahsen has<br />

often stated that “food needs to be valued in a<br />

different way and consumers need to step up<br />

and be willing to pay for quality. We need to<br />

find a way to make artisanal food production<br />

viable.” Monforte Dairy is Ontario’s oldest<br />

operating artisanal cheese company and is<br />

a well-known presence at farmers’ markets,<br />

featuring a selection of cheese made from<br />

goat, sheep, cow and water buffalo milk.<br />

Amongst all the cheesemongers in the<br />

Perth, Oxford and <strong>Wellington</strong> County region,<br />

Cheesemaker Ruth Klahsen of Monforte Dairy<br />

Photo by Nigel Dickson<br />

there are two whose shops have become<br />

premier destinations for cheese lovers and<br />

enthusiasts. Milky Whey Fine Cheese Shoppe<br />

in Stratford, owned by master cheese maker<br />

Liz Payne, has an extensive selection of<br />

Canadian and international artisanal cheeses.<br />

The Whey Back Tasting Room is an intimate,<br />

cozy and unique space, available for private<br />

functions and for private cheese tastings and<br />

pairing events for 12 to 20 people. There is a<br />

choice of crackers, chutneys and other cheese<br />

accompaniments on offer.<br />

Cheesemongers Andrew and Kim Wheeler<br />

want TOMME “to be the cheese shop a foodcentric<br />

town like Guelph deserves.” Downtown<br />

Guelph didn’t have a cheesemonger until<br />

recently. Located off Market Square at 34<br />

Carden Street, TOMME offers an impressive<br />

range of artisanal Canadian and international<br />

cheeses, including hard to find specialty items<br />

like Murcia Al Vino. Nicknamed Drunken<br />

Goat, this Spanish goat’s milk cheese is supple<br />

and rich in taste. Are you a fan of sheep’s milk<br />

TOMME cheesemongers Kim and Andrew Wheeler

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

cheese? Try the incredible raw-milk pecorino<br />

from Pienza in Italy, wrapped in walnut leaves<br />

and aged for months in earthenware crocks.<br />

The result is crumbly, deliciously sharp, and<br />

pleasantly herbal.<br />

The friendly owners are quick with<br />

intelligent advice. They hand-cut each order<br />

to ensure premium flavour and quality. The<br />

Wheelers also offer a grilled cheese panini<br />

at lunchtime, cheese boards, local beer, craft<br />

cider and wine. There is a selection of olives,<br />

salami, spreads and crackers available, as well<br />

as cheese accessories.<br />

Artisanal cheese producers have<br />

evolved as rules for milk management<br />

relaxed to allow on-farm cheese making<br />

in limited amounts. True artisanal<br />

cheese cannot be mass-produced and<br />

is limited in quantity with specific<br />

characteristics deemed to be specialty<br />

in nature. Crafted from the milk collected<br />

on the same farm where the<br />

cheese is produced, farmstead cheese<br />

is also sometimes referred to as farmhouse<br />

cheese. Farmstead cheesemakers<br />

only use milk from animals they<br />

raise, unlike artisan cheese which may<br />

include milk purchased and transported<br />

from off-farm sources.<br />

Stonetown Artisan Cheese, outside<br />

St Marys, produces 14 Swiss<br />

mountain-style cheeses, handcrafted<br />

by master cheesemaker<br />

Ramon Eberle. The facility also<br />

produces two different types of goat<br />

cheeses: Capri Ella is a Tilsit-style<br />

cheese and Grey is a Gruyere. Using<br />

unpasteurized milk from farmers<br />

Hans and Jolanda Weber’s herd of<br />

Holsteins, Eberle uses raw milk so<br />

that the cheese ripens as naturally as<br />

possible while the flavours improve<br />

with maturation. Award-winning<br />

cheese, curds and other local products<br />

are available to buy on-site at<br />

the farm store Tuesday to Saturday.<br />

Guided tours allow you to see the<br />

process of cheese making. 5021 Perth<br />

County Line 8 (Kirkton Road), St.<br />

Marys, stonetowncheese.com<br />

<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong>/<strong>January</strong> <strong>2019</strong>| 17<br />

Meet the Cheesemakers on the<br />

Oxford County Cheese Trail<br />

The Oxford County Cheese Trail is a curated<br />

list of roughly 30 stops featuring cheese,<br />

dairy and related offerings for visitors to<br />

experience. Some of the newer stops are<br />

Habitual Chocolate in Woodstock, which<br />

makes hot chocolate, lattes and ice cream<br />

from scratch using local dairy, and Wild<br />

Comfort, which has opened just down the<br />

road from Gunn’s Hill Artisan Cheese, making<br />

products using local goat’s milk. Two Cheese<br />

Cheese makers you might meet on the Oxford<br />

County Cheese Trail: Spencer Haskett of Bright<br />

Cheese and Butter (top), Shep Ysselstein of<br />

Gunn’s Hill Artisan Cheese (centre), and Ellis<br />

Morris of Quality Sheep Milk.

18 |<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong>/<strong>January</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

Trail partners offering new experiences<br />

are Cindy Walker’s Chocolatea, offering a<br />

Truffle Camp, and Ottercreek Woodworks<br />

with tree-to-table cheese and charcuterie<br />

boards. Ottercreek Woodworks specializes<br />

in beautiful, handcrafted boards using<br />

sustainably sourced local wood. Each piece<br />

of wood is handpicked for its organic shape<br />

and unique character features so you’re sure<br />

to find a piece you’ll love for years to come.<br />

Pieces are also available at Gunn’s Hill in<br />

Woodstock and Bright’s Cheese and Butter.<br />

Mountainoak Cheese, located near New<br />

Hamburg, is located out of Oxford County<br />

but is closely tied to the nearby community<br />

of Plattsville. Adam van Bergeijk and his wife<br />

Hannie took over the family dairy farm in<br />

Holland from Adam’s parents in 1976. From<br />

the beginning, they had an interest in making<br />

artisan cheese on the farm. After studying<br />

cheesemaking in Gouda, Holland and running<br />

their own dairy farm outside New Hamburg,<br />

the van Bergeijks founded Mountainoak<br />

Cheese in 1996. The state-of-the-art facility<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

uses milk from their herd. They offer 18<br />

flavours of cheese including Wild Nettle,<br />

Black Truffle Gouda and other award-winning<br />

varieties. 3165 Huron Road, New Hamburg,<br />

mountainoakcheese.com<br />

Another award-winner on the Trail is<br />

Shep and Colleen Ysselstein’s Gunn’s Hill<br />

Artisan Cheese. Since the 1800s Gunn’s Hill,<br />

near Woodstock, has been a dairy farm. The<br />

Yesselstein family purchased it in the 1960’s.<br />

Raised on his family dairy farm, Shep honed<br />

his cheese making skills with apprenticeships<br />

in Switzerland, United States, and British<br />

Columbia. Gunn’s Hill has been producing<br />

Swiss-style cheeses since 2011 and has<br />

established a reputation for excellence for<br />

its 15 offerings. Be sure to try the awardwinning<br />

aged Handeck and the flagship<br />

Five Brothers cheese, which is similar to a<br />

Swiss Appenzeller. 445172 Gunn’s Hill Road,<br />

Woodstock, gunnshillcheese.ca<br />

In 1874 local farmers created Bright Cheese<br />

and Butter to put their surplus milk to use,<br />

with an emphasis on producing cheddar. By<br />

the twentieth century Bright Cheese had<br />

expanded, as had the market for Canadian<br />

cheddar, which was Canada’s second largest<br />

export. This led to the establishment of 1,242<br />

cheddar factories in Ontario. Today Bright<br />

Adam van Bergerijk (above) and his wife Hannie of<br />

Mountainoak Cheese are among the regions numerous<br />

award-winning cheese makers. Amarjit Singh (below)<br />

and his family produce all-natural cheeses, including<br />

Mexican and Latin American crema and queso.

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong>/<strong>January</strong> <strong>2019</strong>| 19<br />

Celebrate the Culture of Cheese<br />

www.OxfordCountyCheeseTrail.ca<br />

1-866-801-7368 x3355<br />

tourism@oxfordcounty.ca<br />


20 |<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong>/<strong>January</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

continues to craft award-winning cheeses at<br />

the 1800s factory and is known for all-natural,<br />

naturally-aged cheese made with 100%<br />

local milk, in the old-fashioned way. Aged<br />

cheddars, Asiago, colby, Monterey Jack, feta,<br />

havarti and specialty flavours are available<br />

in the shop. 816503 County Rd 22, Bright,<br />

brightcheeseandbutter.com<br />

Local Dairy Products owner Amarjit Singh,<br />

his wife Gurinder Kaur, and son Sajeev Singh<br />

produce high quality artisanal, local and<br />

all-natural dairy products out of a historic<br />

cheese factory in Ingersoll. You’ll find unique<br />

products inspired by the international world<br />

of cheese including Mennonite-inspired<br />

cheese, and traditional Mexican and Latin<br />

American crema and queso. There are over<br />

20 vegetarian products as well as authentic<br />

Indian dairy products, yogurt, (also buffalo<br />

milk) cultured butter, ghee, Koch Kase, dulce<br />

de leche, and cajeta caramel, produced under<br />

the Asli, La Vaquita and Perth County brands.<br />

139 Victoria St, Ingersoll, localdairy.ca<br />

Quality Sheep Milk Ltd.’s goats and sheep<br />

are fed dry hay with a non-GMO product grain<br />

diet and are milked twice a day to produce<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

cheese on the 128-acre farm, operated by Ellis,<br />

Hazel and Sion Morris. Half the milk produced<br />

is used to craft a variety of cheese and create<br />

Greek-style yogurt. While on the Oxford<br />

County Cheese Trail, stop by the farm to pick<br />

up the trail’s only feta (both smoked and<br />

Greek-style) or the Italian-inspired pecorino<br />

Romano or pecorino Cortenese. They also<br />

make Gouda, cheddar and manchego cheese.<br />

Around the Region<br />

A small on-farm family business close to<br />

Lake Huron, Blyth Farm Cheese is proficient<br />

in the whole procedure of crafting great<br />

varieties of goat milk cheese. Everything<br />

from the farming and the cheese making to<br />

the packaging is completed on the farm. The<br />

Van Dorps have been successful farmers and<br />

cheesemakers for generations. The business is<br />

steeped in family roots and traditions while<br />

innovating and creating fresh and delicious<br />

variations of goat milk flavours such as<br />

smoked, jalapeno, nettle and “Blyth’s Drunken<br />

Goat,” a Gouda-style soaked in merlot. 82521<br />

Allboro Line, Blyth, blythfarmcheese.ca<br />

Operations at C’estbon Cheese began as<br />

Your Local, Fresh and Wholesome Gourmet Market.<br />

We are passionate about Food and Community!

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

a retirement project for George Taylor 18<br />

years ago when he swapped a flock of sheep<br />

for a herd of Toggenburg and La Mancha<br />

goats. Taylor began crafting small-batch,<br />

on-farm cheese using only the milk from his<br />

own herd to create his proprietary C’estbon<br />

chèvre. In time Taylor relocated his goats to<br />

a neighbouring farm. The goat milk is now<br />

delivered from a local producer, Hewitt’s<br />

Dairy. Not a single item leaves C’estbon<br />

without Taylor’s thumbprint on it. 4675 Line<br />

3, St Marys, cestboncheese.com<br />

Oak Grove Cheese Factory, located in New<br />

Hamburg, is independently owned and has<br />

been a family operation since 1879. The factory<br />

maintains the quality of its cheese products by<br />

continuing to produce cheese in the same way<br />

as when the Langenegger family first started,<br />

over 80 years ago. Today there are fourth and<br />

fifth generations of the family working in<br />

the business. This is where you go to buy the<br />

creamy, washed-rind, strong-smelling cow’s<br />

milk, Limburger. 29 Bleams Road East, New<br />

Hamburg, oakgrovecheese.ca<br />

As founding members of Ewenity Dairy<br />

Co-op, cheesemaker Elisabeth Bzikot and<br />

husband Eric of Best Baa Dairy in Fergus buy<br />

raw sheep milk from the small co-operative to<br />

make quality gourmet sheep milk products like<br />

yogurt and ice cream, and a fine collection of<br />

firm and soft sheep cheeses such as Mouton<br />

Rouge, a 60-day-aged raw milk cheese, and<br />

Ramembert, a creamy camembert style cheese.<br />

820 Gartshore Road, Fergus, bestbaa.com<br />

Driving the back roads through<br />

Southwestern Ontario you can sample<br />

award-winning local and artisanal cheeses,<br />

and savour scratch baking and other locally<br />

produced products. Explore the Oxford<br />

County Cheese Trail, visit a cheese factory<br />

or an on-farm cheese producer, and be sure<br />

to check out the museums devoted to cheese<br />

history and the region’s dairy heritage.<br />

<strong>Eatdrink</strong> Food Editor BRYAN LAVERY brings years of<br />

experience in the restaurant and hospitality industry as<br />

a chef, restaurateur, and partner in the Lavery Culinary<br />

Group. Always on the lookout for the stories that <strong>Eatdrink</strong><br />

should be telling, he helps shape the magazine both under<br />

his byline and behind the scenes.<br />

Photography credit: Dudek Photography<br />

Farm to table award winning<br />

hand crafted alpine style cheese<br />

Tuesday to Friday 9am–5pm<br />

Saturday 9am–4pm<br />

Stonetown Artisan Cheese<br />

5021 Perth Line 8<br />

St. Marys ON<br />

Gift Baskets &<br />

Gift Boxes<br />

Cheese Trays<br />

Fondue & Raclette<br />

Fresh Curds<br />

519-229-6856<br />

info@stonetowncheese.com<br />

www.stonetowncheese.com<br />

Award Winning<br />

Artisan Cheese<br />

Gift Baskets to meet<br />

any need and price range<br />

Come Experience Our World!<br />

Visit our cheese shop and sample our unique<br />

handmade cheeses.<br />

See and learn about how cheese is made.<br />

Enjoy the scenery on our 3-generation family farm.<br />

Group tours are available by reservation.<br />

Monday–Saturday 9-5<br />

Christmas Eve 9–2<br />

Closed Christmas<br />

& Boxing Day<br />

445172 Gunn's Hill Rd, Woodstock, ON<br />

519-424-4024<br />


22 |<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong>/<strong>January</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

Sponsored By<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Road Trips<br />

Take Your Time<br />

Discovering the Pleasures of a Small Town: St. Marys<br />


While attending an event in St.<br />

Marys, Ontario, I decided that<br />

this beautiful town merited<br />

a longer and more leisurely<br />

visit. On a bright, sunny Saturday morning<br />

in October we drove northeast from London,<br />

with a list of places to visit. The short drive<br />

was enhanced by the masses of spectacular<br />

colour as the leaves were turning to their<br />

autumn colours of orange, crimson and gold.<br />

Our first stop was the farmers’ market,<br />

which is open from May until October. At<br />

Breadtopia, which has a wide selection of<br />

breads and pastries, we bought freshly baked<br />

ginger snaps, red onion and aged cheddar<br />

focaccia, and loaves of Stonetown and Thames<br />

Grain bread. We left the market laden as<br />

well with fresh-from-the-farm vegetables,<br />

delectable pastries from an Amish family’s<br />

booth, and some Middle Eastern treats<br />

from The Syrian Baker, known for baklava,<br />

sambosaks (samosas), falafels and hummus.<br />

Next stop was McCully’s Hill Farm Market.<br />

At the store entrance we were met by the<br />

aroma of freshly-baked apple and pumpkin<br />

pies. The huge variety of baked goods,<br />

maple syrup, fresh local meat and cheeses,<br />

homemade pickles, jams and preserves made<br />

for another shopping spree. After a tour of<br />

the barn, where we met the farm animals, we<br />

Discover the culinary and cultural diversity of the<br />

farmers’ market in St. Marys

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong>/<strong>January</strong> <strong>2019</strong>| 23<br />







<strong>2019</strong> LEXUS UXh<br />


$41,902.56<br />


519 748-9668 | HEFFNERLEXUS.CA<br />

<strong>2019</strong> Lexus UX all in price from $41,902.56 includes Freight/PDI $2075.00, evironmental<br />

handling fee $17.56, air tax $100, OMVIC $10. Other taxes, licensing fees extra.

24 |<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong>/<strong>January</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

were treated to a sampling of Fiege’s Gourmet<br />

Dressings and Sauces, which led to yet more<br />

shopping.<br />

One can’t visit St. Marys without checking out<br />

the local cheeses. Hans and Jolanda Weber, with<br />

Swiss cheese maker Ramon Eberle, have brought<br />

the art of cheese making to St. Marys by opening<br />

Stonetown Artisan Cheese. Our guide gave us an<br />

interesting and informative tour of the facility,<br />

and we enjoyed samples of some of Stonetown’s<br />

14 different curds and cheeses. It is no surprise<br />

that Stonetown is a two-time award winner at<br />

the Royal Agricultural Winter Fair.<br />

Agritourism is alive and well in St. Marys.<br />

Transvaal Farm Guest House is a two-storey<br />

house with a living room and fully equipped<br />

kitchen on the main floor and two bedrooms<br />

upstairs. The hosts, Cindy Taylor and Scott<br />

McLauchlan, make their guests feel at home.<br />

Eggs are there for the gathering, visits to the<br />

barn are encouraged, and the vegetable garden<br />

is there, in season, for guests. Transvaal Farm<br />

is also home to another artisanal cheese maker,<br />

C’est Bon Cheese Ltd. Cindy also operates<br />

Kitchen Smidgen, a small bakery on Water Street<br />

in St. Marys. There’s a patio where you can enjoy<br />

your treats in nice weather, overlooking the<br />

Thames.<br />

Troyer’s Spices on Queen St. is filled with over<br />

100 quality herbs and spices from around the<br />

world and is a utopia for chefs, bakers and home<br />

cooks. Over 55 herb and spice combinations are<br />

handcrafted in the store, and are displayed in<br />

large glass jars. You can bring your own spice<br />

containers or purchase items pre-packaged.<br />

Other quality goods available include Aunt<br />

Milly’s Soup Mixes, oils, vinegars, vanilla<br />

products, local honey, organic maple syrup, and<br />

Urban Hippie Granola.<br />

Of course we had to check out The Chocolate<br />

Factory to try the homemade truffles. It was a challenge<br />

to choose between truffles, smoothies, chocolates and the<br />

specialty Halloween creations.<br />

It was time for a coffee break, so a stop at Stonetown<br />

Coffee was in order. The coffee was great and the<br />

homemade pastries and cakes looked mouth-watering (but<br />

I was full from all the sampling earlier). The atmosphere<br />

was friendly and relaxed with people visiting amongst<br />

themselves while others relaxed in armchairs by the<br />

windows. Stonetown Coffee serves breakfast and lunch,<br />

and gluten-free items.<br />

After our check-in at the award-winning Westover Inn<br />

From meeting some of the animals at Transvaal Farm Guest house, to<br />

exploring the shops and cafés in town, you’ll find plenty to do while<br />

discovering the small town of St. Marys.

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

The elegant dining room at Westover Inn<br />

our hostess Kaitlynn gave us a tour of the<br />

historic property. Built in 1867 by the Hutton<br />

Brothers, The Manor sits on 19 landscaped<br />

acres, along with two other buildings that also<br />

provide accommodations. The property was<br />

bought by the Roman Catholic Church in the<br />

1930’s and was operated as a seminary. The<br />

property was sold again 1985, and after two<br />

years of renovations the Westover Inn began<br />

receiving guests. The walls are lined with<br />

hospitality awards and it is apparently one of<br />

Christopher Plummer’s favorite inns.<br />

For dinner we headed off to the Wildstone<br />

Bar and Grill at Stone Willow Inn. The<br />

atmosphere was inviting and comfortable,<br />

and the service friendly and professional. The<br />

chicken breast with lemon grass, mango and<br />

strawberry reduction, served with rice and<br />

vegetables and topped with toasted coconut,<br />

was cooked to flavourful perfection. The<br />

evening special was prime rib, cooked to order.<br />

We topped off the evening with specialty<br />

coffees and shared a piece of cheesecake with<br />

fresh fruit. Wildstone Bar and Grill offers a<br />

selection of regional wines and craft beers.<br />

Breakfast at the Westover was an early<br />

morning pleasure. My order of smoked<br />

salmon on a house-made mustard seed bagel<br />

with cream cheese and arugula was served<br />

with a fresh fruit salad. The perfect ending to<br />

a perfect weekend.<br />

For years our vacations were long trips;<br />

I wanted to see the world. Now I am loving<br />

the short weekend jaunts and day trips. It is<br />

amazing what you can find close to home.<br />

NANCY LOUCKS-McSLOY is a freelance writer who<br />

loves cooking and entertaining. Her work has appeared<br />

in Chicken Soup for the Soul, The Fur-Bearing Trout and<br />

Other True Tales of Canadian Life, McLean’s, Vitality and<br />

many other publications.<br />

Kitchener Memorial Auditorium Complex<br />

Contact Kelly Marshall<br />

Show Manager<br />

226.927.2749<br />

kellymarshall@live.com<br />


• Reach out to new customers The show will be<br />

extensively advertised via social media, radio, billboards, print,<br />

signage, etc.<br />

• Branding Create and enhance your company’s image. Ensure<br />

consumers think of your business first when they are ready to eat<br />

and drink. Increase your business familiarity and trust.<br />

• Reminders People forget. Out of sight, out of mind. The<br />

more impressions you make, the longer people remember. Have<br />

a competitive advantage over non-participating businesses.<br />

Presented by

26 |<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong>/<strong>January</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

The BUZZ<br />

Culinary Community Notes<br />

New and Notable<br />


This column consists of regional culinary<br />

news, including a large scoop of local<br />

news and inside information. There<br />

is no charge to be included here, and<br />

we encourage chefs, restaurateurs, brewers,<br />

fundraisers, culinary artisans, farmers — and<br />

everyone else with information to share — to send<br />

us details. Short and sweet! We want to include as<br />

many items as possible. See the end of this column<br />

for contact details.<br />

Kitchener<br />

With about 10 locations in Ontario, Pi Co. Pizza Bar<br />

opened in Fairview Park in late September. Heating to<br />

nearly 1,000-degrees F, the oven is a bell oven similar<br />

to those used at Famoso <strong>Waterloo</strong> and La Cucina<br />

Kitchener. The Pi Co. Pizza Bar process is make-yourown<br />

— well, selecting your own toppings at least,<br />

if not sticking your arm in small blast furnace. The<br />

organization, its dough and its pizza-making process<br />

is certified “Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana,” or<br />

authentic Neapolitan pizza.<br />

Swine and Vine is now open for Saturday brunch.<br />

The small casual restaurant in the Bridgeport<br />

neighbourhood is serving a Benedict brisket,<br />

drunken French toast, gnocchi poutine and a wild<br />

boar bacon sandwich among others. Check out the<br />

profile article of Swine and Vine elsewhere in this<br />

edition.<br />

Some long-time locals might remember Arpo’s<br />

Dugout, a basement venue at 15 Scott Street. The<br />

location was most recently the Stonegate Bistro<br />

until it was shuttered. Coming soon, however, is The<br />

Underground, a restaurant that promises fresh and<br />

quick takeaway or dine-in.<br />

Located in the historical Tannery building in<br />

Downtown Kitchener, Taste at the Tannery is a social<br />

hub for lunch and dinner, where guests can connect<br />

with friends while enjoying bold flavours and good<br />

times! Taste’s menu is full of dishes just waiting to be<br />

paired with favourite local craft brews, wines or unique<br />

cocktails. 121 Charles St W, Kitchener, tastetannery.ca<br />

Meticulously designed, The Walper Hotel provides a<br />

unique, modern boutique experience. It was built in<br />

1893, and its most recent refurbishment combines<br />

contemporary building technology with the best<br />

of the hotel’s heritage features. The Lokal is the<br />

striking piano bar and lounge on the second floor.<br />

Enjoy craft cocktails (try the Black Martini) and<br />

converse with friendly upbeat staff in TWH Social,<br />

the subterranean bar/bistro. The menu is touted as<br />

“local ingredients done well, with a thoughtfully<br />

sourced menu focused on sustainability and<br />

diversity.” Breakfast at the Barristers Lounge is a<br />

treat. 20 Queen Street South, Kitchener, walper.com<br />

Charcoal Group offers unique dining packages.<br />

Book a chauffeured luxury stretch limousine for<br />

eight people and ride in style to a “progressive<br />

dinner” at up to five different Charcoal Group<br />

locations. Enjoy a different course and beverage<br />

at each stop. Suggested destinations include:<br />

Charcoal Steakhouse, dels Enoteca Pizzeria<br />

and Martini’s in Kitchener; The Bauer Kitchen,<br />

Wildcraft Grill + Bar in <strong>Waterloo</strong>; and Beertown<br />

Public House in <strong>Waterloo</strong>, Cambridge and London.<br />

The family-friendly Moose Winooski’s in Kitchener<br />

is also in the Charcoal Group fold. 519-894-0110,<br />

charcoalgroup.ca/events<br />

<strong>Waterloo</strong><br />

Lot 88 Steakhouse and Bar is opening in the former<br />

space of Wildfire, Baton Rouge and other restaurants<br />

that have struggled in that very large space. The<br />

ostensible hook to the place is a lava rock grill and<br />

“steaks cooked at your table,” according to the<br />

company’s website. Lot 88 has sister restaurants in<br />

Sudbury, North Bay and Winnipeg.<br />

It came. It saw. It faltered. Weber Street Public House<br />

has been closed by the landlord after only a few<br />

months. The pub opened this past summer. A note<br />

posted on the door outlines that terms of the lease<br />

are in default and the business has been shut down.<br />

It’s the same for the oddly named Vegetarian &<br />

Fast Food restaurant in University Plaza on Philip

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Street. The place was open for nearly two decades;<br />

now closed for business.<br />

In and around (and around) one of the many traffic<br />

roundabouts that dot the landscape in north<br />

<strong>Waterloo</strong>, look for Naranji to open at 646 Erb<br />

Street West, near Ira Needles Boulevard. The food<br />

is Middle Eastern, so one would imagine that there<br />

will be shawarma.<br />

T&T Supermarket, Erb and Westmount, is a giant<br />

food outlet that has been eagerly anticipated in<br />

the city and scheduled to open <strong>December</strong> 5. It will<br />

settle in, no doubt, as well as B&T and New City<br />

supermarkets have settled in in downtown Kitchener.<br />

Look for something wild, new and exciting at<br />

Wildcraft. Stay tuned. We can’t say more.<br />

Pizzas that move away from the traditional heavy,<br />

dense crust and oozing gobs of cheese are becoming<br />

more and more popular, it would seem. With 20<br />

locations in both Canada and the U.S., Vivo Pizza and<br />

Pasta has opened on Parkside Drive in north <strong>Waterloo</strong>.<br />

You can choose from a dozen pizzas and 10 pastas.<br />

After a solid run as the premier chocolatier<br />

in <strong>Waterloo</strong> Region — and in fact much of<br />

Southwestern Ontario — Ambrosia Pastry Co. had<br />

its last day in early November. Owner Aura Hertzog<br />

is moving on with a new food venture, coming soon.<br />

“Big emotions around this today,” Hertzog wrote on<br />

Ambrosia’s Facebook page on the business’s last<br />

day. “Tim and I created a special little business. As<br />

I say good-bye to this, and let go, I open my heart<br />

even more. Thanks to all my friends and family who<br />

supported us.”<br />

A brand spankin’ new Balzac’s opened this fall on<br />

Philip Street near the University of <strong>Waterloo</strong>. The<br />

small elegant chain with carefully selected and<br />

curated coffees has outlets in Toronto, Stratford,<br />

Kitchener, Kingston, Niagara, Guelph and St.<br />

Catharines.<br />

<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong>/<strong>January</strong> <strong>2019</strong>| 27<br />

Coming soon from the folks who opened Arabesque<br />

on Victoria Street, Kitchener: Chic Pea. It’s a<br />

Middle Eastern restaurant currently in build-out<br />

phase and will feature fresh, healthy local food<br />

with vegetarian selections and unique charcoal<br />

barbecue chicken cookery. The name, according to<br />

the owner, is a play on chicken and a veg dish like<br />

hummus, which uses chickpeas. Look for it to open<br />

in early <strong>December</strong>, the restaurant gods willing.<br />

In early November — and following the growing<br />

trend — Beertown, part of the Charcoal Group,<br />

growers & creators of fine lavender products<br />


Steed & Company Lavender, part of a<br />

45-acre horse farm just outside of Sparta<br />


in our unique handcrafted lavender products<br />

ESCAPE<br />

in the wonderful scent and<br />

calming powers of lavender<br />

519-494-5525<br />

47589 Sparta Line, Sparta<br />

buds@steedandcompany.com<br />

Open Wed–Sat 10-5; Sun 12–4<br />

Mother’s Day to Dec. 19<br />

PLUS June–Labour Day: Tues 10-5<br />

www.steedandcompany.com<br />

Join us for our<br />

Christmas<br />

Open House<br />

November<br />

24 & 25<br />

Award-winning, year-round<br />

Food + drink tours<br />

with a heritage twist<br />

tastedetours.ca<br />

Gift<br />

Certificates<br />


28 |<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong>/<strong>January</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

has launched a vegan-friendly menu. According<br />

to corporate executive chef of Charcoal Group of<br />

Restaurants Todd Clarmo, more guests are looking<br />

for plant-based dishes, as are members of the<br />

restaurant team. “I wanted to curate a menu that<br />

was creative and craveable for everyone and not<br />

alienate anybody,” Clarmo says. “I searched out<br />

and tasted many different plant-based proteins<br />

and created from there. I kept the same Beertown<br />

cuisine and applications but with a vegan twist.<br />

We’ve also expanded our gluten-friendly menu<br />

quite extensively, as this is also in large demand.”<br />

Adding its app to the growing juggernaut that<br />

is mobile connectivity to food and delivery is<br />

Montreal-based Chef on Call. Located in The Hub<br />

at 130 Columbia Street near Lester Street near the<br />

University of <strong>Waterloo</strong> — or more strategically,<br />

the massive agglomeration of student housing in<br />

the immediate vicinity — the unique idea for a food<br />

outlet is capitalizing on the trend of bypassing a<br />

restaurant experience entirely and ordering food on<br />

one’s phone.<br />

John Cerny’s Sole Restaurant and Wine Bar is<br />

situated in a stunning 150-year-old Seagram’s<br />

building, minutes west of the <strong>Waterloo</strong> Uptown<br />

core. The interior soars two stories high to a timber<br />

frame ceiling, and exposed brick and wood finishes<br />

set the tone for an elegant yet casual experience.<br />

The menu is inspired by the Mediterranean and<br />

features excellent thin crust pizza, traditional<br />

pastas, vegetarian entrees, steaks and rack of lamb.<br />

A stellar dish of crisp, fried polenta with bocconcini<br />

and tomato ragu was superb. An extensive wine list,<br />

great selection of Scotch, and local and imported<br />

beers on tap complement the experience. Service is<br />

professional, knowledgeable and friendly. 83 Erb St<br />

W, Building Two, <strong>Waterloo</strong>, 519 747-5622 sole.ca<br />

We are constantly hearing great things about<br />

Proof Kitchen & Lounge, located in the Delta Hotel<br />

in Uptown <strong>Waterloo</strong>, on the site of the historic<br />

Seagram Barrel Yards. Proof offers a contemporary<br />

dining experience with stunning ambience. A chefdriven<br />

menu features local ingredients with an<br />

emphasis on global flavours. Chef Jeritt Raney’s<br />

menus are complemented by expertly crafted<br />

cocktails, a well-chosen wine list, and a diverse<br />

selection of local craft beers. 110 Erb Street West,<br />

<strong>Waterloo</strong>, 519 208 3333, proofwaterloo.com<br />

On King Street near Willis Way, 21 Fir Whiskey Bar &<br />

Kitchen blends southern and classic dishes amidst<br />

a prohibition-inspired atmosphere. The creative<br />

kitchen serves up delightful comfort food staples<br />

with a clever southern twist, while the bar offers<br />

elevated cocktails and boasts an extensive collection<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

of whiskey. 100 King St S, <strong>Waterloo</strong>, 21fir.com<br />

Chef/owner Dan Mc Cowan’s Red House is located<br />

in a red house in Uptown <strong>Waterloo</strong> that has<br />

been converted into an intimate, relaxed bistro<br />

restaurant. Featuring fresh food inspired by quality<br />

ingredients, the menu changes daily to incorporate<br />

new and seasonal flavours. Fresh salads, inventive<br />

starters and entrées feature beef, duck, curries,<br />

pastas and vegetarian dishes. On Tuesdays, bring a<br />

friend and share delicious selections from the tapas<br />

menu. Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday to Friday,<br />

and brunch and dinner Saturday. 30 William St W,<br />

<strong>Waterloo</strong>, redhouseuptown.ca<br />

The <strong>Waterloo</strong> Hotel in the city’s uptown is closing<br />

after more than three decades in business. The<br />

15-room boutique hotel is located at the corner of<br />

King and Erb streets. The historic building dates<br />

back to 1890 and its south Erb Street and west King<br />

Street façades are listed by the City of <strong>Waterloo</strong> as<br />

designated under the Ontario Heritage Act.<br />

Looking for unique gift ideas, decorations or<br />

ingredients for your holiday meals? Local farmers,<br />

retailers and artisans are ready for your business.<br />

Check out the Taste Real Holiday Food and Gift<br />

Guide. https://www.wellington.ca/en/business/<br />

tr-holidayfoodandgiftguide.aspx<br />

Cambridge<br />

Taking over the vacant restaurant spot that was the<br />

short-lived The Stables in Hespeler, Choun Kitchen<br />

describes itself as Asian fusion. That would likely be<br />

ramen, Thai street-style fried rice, and banh mi with<br />

mom’s house soup — doesn’t that sound nice?<br />

Pickle Barrel, the popular Toronto chain, has<br />

opened on Hespeler Road in the former Milestones<br />

location. With about a dozen outlets in Toronto, this<br />

is the first time the popular restaurant has opened a<br />

location outside of the GTA. It has a huge menu and,<br />

having started out as a deli, smokes meat in-house.<br />

Check out Malasada World on Ainslie Street North<br />

at Dickson in downtown Galt for a new and delicious<br />

range of sandwiches and dough-nutty treats, from<br />

bifanas and fried chicken sandwiches to a hybrid<br />

Portuguese sweet that sees a malasada crossed<br />

with a pastel de nata custard tart; it’s called,<br />

perhaps not surprisingly, a DoughNata.<br />

Undoubtedly a gem in the crown of <strong>Waterloo</strong><br />

Region dining, Langdon Hall Country House<br />

Hotel and Spa has staked its claim among the<br />

best in Canada. Earlier this year it was selected<br />

as the No. 5 Best Restaurant by Canada’s 100<br />

Best. Surrounded by Carolinian forest, Langdon<br />

Hall is one of 13 properties in Canada recognized

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

by Relais & Châteaux for achieving benchmark<br />

standards of excellence, and is known for incredible<br />

Five-Diamond dining experiences, exquisite<br />

accommodations and storybook architecture. 1<br />

Langdon Drive, Cambridge, langdonhall.ca<br />

Since 1948 Reids has been a local destination and<br />

tradition to many in the Cambridge community<br />

and beyond. Originally a specialty nut shop,<br />

Reids began to offer handmade chocolates and<br />

confections after husband and wife Tom and Kathy<br />

Drew-Smith gained ownership in 1971. It is now<br />

owned and operated by brother and sister team,<br />

Ted Drew-Smith and Carrie Peart. Reids marked<br />

its 70th year with its largest expansion to date.<br />

In addition to its flagship store on Ainslie Street<br />

North in Downtown Cambridge (Galt), you can now<br />

also find Reids locations on Elgin Street South in<br />

Cambridge (Galt) and in The Old Quebec Street Mall<br />

in Downtown Guelph. reidchocolates.com<br />

Cambridge Mill recently announced the<br />

appointment of Joel LaBute to the role of<br />

Executive Chef. In addition to bringing with<br />

him a fresh culinary perspective, Joel is deeply<br />

committed to using sustainable, organic and<br />

ethical food sources — so much so that he and<br />

his wife run their very own farm. Referring to his<br />

culinary style as “connection-based cuisine,” Joel<br />

aims to reflect the journey from farmer to chef<br />

to guest with a clean, refined approach to rustic<br />

farm-to-table cuisine. 130 Water Street North,<br />

Cambridge, cambridgemill.ca<br />

The Bruce Craft House, a name forged out of fire,<br />

craft beer and local food, is the new restaurant<br />

collaboration between the Cambridge Hotel<br />

and Conference Centre and B Hospitality. The<br />

restaurant features a stone-fired oven for pizza and<br />

other baked goods, and a number of craft beers<br />

on tap. Chef Aaron Clyne’s menu features dishes<br />

from a variety of regions and menu items highlight<br />

local food producers, such as goat cheese from<br />

Woolwich, and Carrick Hill Farm’s free range pulled<br />

chicken. cambridgehotel.ca/the-bruce-craft-house<br />

Blackshop Restaurant and Wine Bar is a<br />

Cambridge landmark operated by John Cerny.<br />

This well-designed restaurant offers innovative<br />

and traditional cooking, delivered in a casual yet<br />

elegant atmosphere. The ambiance is comfortable<br />

and appealing, offering high-quality continental<br />

cuisine in an unpretentious way. There are premium<br />

beers on tap, a wide scotch selection and an<br />

extensive wine list. Located on Hespeler Road, 2<br />

sets of lights south of the 401, beside the Travelodge<br />

Hotel, 595 Hespeler Rd, Cambridge, blackshop.ca<br />



We specialize in bringing Southern hospitality<br />

and our award-winning food to your special<br />

occasion.<br />


Our upstairs event space,<br />

The Lanc Loft, features a<br />

full bar, separate washrooms,<br />

PA system, tables and chairs.<br />

Our fully-mobile food truck has complete<br />

kitchen facilities wherever you need us!<br />


lancsmokehouse.com<br />

574 Lancaster Street West Kitchener ON<br />

Monday–Saturday Open @ 11:30am<br />

Contact our Catering Manager for booking inquiries<br />

519.743.4331 | info@lancsmokehouse.com<br />

something<br />

for<br />


Cambridge Farmers’<br />

Market<br />

Circa 1830<br />

Saturday Year Round<br />

7:00am - 1:00pm<br />


30 |<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong>/<strong>January</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

Guelph & <strong>Wellington</strong> County<br />

Celebrate the festive season with Guelph Farmers’<br />

Market. The Merry Maker Night Market offers an<br />

opportunity for a seasonal celebration and a special<br />

last-minute shopping opportunity with more than<br />

80 vendors including specialty produce, artisans,<br />

food trucks, VQA wines and live entertainment.<br />

Wednesday, <strong>December</strong> 19, 4:00 – 9:00 pm.<br />

Alex Tami’s Sugo on Surrey, an Italian Restaurant<br />

with a Mediterranean influence, recently opened.<br />

117 Surrey Street East, Guelph, sugoguelph.com<br />

Earlier this year John Sleeman announced he<br />

was repatriating 100,000 hectolitres of beer<br />

currently produced in the United States. Sleeman is<br />

hoping to have his new craft distillery, Spring Mill<br />

Distilleries, up and running by Christmas. While the<br />

distillery will initially produce vodka and gin, there<br />

are plans to also produce a number of different<br />

whiskies.<br />

Crafty Ramen owners Jared and Miki Farrell<br />

studied the form at Yamoto Ramen School in Japan.<br />

The 500 square-foot noodle shop makes its own<br />

noodles in-house daily from Canadian wheat. The<br />

kitchen is dedicated to great ingredients like earthy,<br />

pork-duck broth made with locally sourced meat<br />

and bones which are supplied by Trotters Butcher<br />

Shop. Vegetarian broth is made from a combination<br />

of cherry tomatoes, kombu seaweed and shiitake<br />

mushrooms. 17 Macdonell St, Guelph, 519 824-8330,<br />

craftyramen.com<br />

Ron Hill and Tammy Hsieh’s Queen’s Café opened<br />

in September at the corner of Elizabeth and Victoria<br />

Road South. The menu features pan-roasted<br />

chicken supreme, beef short ribs, coconut shrimp,<br />

antojitos, a buttermilk chicken sandwich, and<br />

pastrami on rye, avocado toast, steak and eggs and<br />

buttermilk pancakes. The café is very popular for<br />

weekend breakfasts. 48 Victoria Rd. S., Guelph<br />

Join the Guelph Film Festival for the ‘Taste Reel’<br />

Local Food and Film event at The Common café in<br />

Guelph on Sunday, <strong>December</strong> 9. calendar.wellington.<br />

ca/tastereal/Detail/<strong>2018</strong>-12-09-1900-Taste-Reel-A-<br />

Series-of-Films-and-Food-Behind-the-C<br />

The Townships & Beyond<br />

After two winners at the Royal Winter Fair (Fontina<br />

and Farmstead Emmental both won 1st place in<br />

their categories), Stonetown Cheese competed at<br />

the British Empire Cheese Competition and was<br />

honoured with First Place for Grand Trunk, First<br />

Place for Farmstead Emmental and First Place<br />

for Farmstead Fontina. 5021 Perth County Line 8<br />

(Kirkton Road), St. Marys, stonetowncheese.com<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Gunn’s Hill Cheese has been awarded the Grand<br />

Champion in the Variety Cheese Category for<br />

the 5 Brothers at the Royal Winter Fair’s cheese<br />

competition for <strong>2018</strong>. 445172 Gunn’s Hill Road,<br />

Woodstock, gunnshillcheese.ca<br />

After two winners at the Royal Winter Fair (First<br />

Place for Wild Nettle and Third Place for Farmstead<br />

Smoked) Mountainoak Cheese competed at<br />

the British Empire Cheese Competition and was<br />

honoured when Farmstead Gold won First Place<br />

in its category, and the Farmstead 3 Year and Goat<br />

Gouda won Second Place. 3165 Huron Road, New<br />

Hamburg, mountainoakcheese.com<br />

Pub Trivia at Upper Thames Brewing Company:<br />

Join the Woodstock Public Library at Upper Thames<br />

Brewing Company for pub trivia and test your<br />

knowledge on <strong>December</strong> 19. Come in a team of<br />

five or join in upon arrival. Also enjoy Saturday<br />

afternoons in <strong>December</strong> with live music by<br />

Rockwell. upperthamesbrewing.ca<br />

Truffle Camp Experience: Step into the role of<br />

chocolatier for an evening as you work with<br />

Cindy Walker of Chocolatea to learn the art of<br />

truffle-making and handcraft your own batch of<br />

12 truffles. Work with a mix of local ingredients<br />

from neighboring farms to understand the terroir<br />

and flavours that make up Southwestern Ontario.<br />

<strong>December</strong> 1, 16 and 22. chocolatea.ca/product/<br />

truffle-camp<br />

Elora Mill Hotel & Spa is a one-of-a-kind<br />

destination, nestled in the heart of a charming<br />

village, with panoramic views from its perch atop a<br />

thundering gorge. Originally built in the mid-1850s<br />

and rescued from bankruptcy by Pearle Hospitality<br />

in 2010, this iconic landmark has undergone an<br />

exciting transformation. Chef John Bakker recently<br />

served as Executive Chef of Gili Lankanfushi, a<br />

retreat destination voted #1 Luxury Resort in Asia<br />

for 2017. In addition to his time in the Maldives,<br />

Bakker made notable stops in Scandinavia,<br />

Germany, France and the United Kingdom, working<br />

in some of the most impressive kitchens in Europe.<br />

Bakker returned to his hometown to take the<br />

helm of the Elora Mill Hotel & Spa kitchen and<br />

leverage his vast international knowledge to bring<br />

something unique to the Elora experience. His goal<br />

is to put Elora Mill Hotel & Spa on the culinary map<br />

by taking Pearle Hospitality’s food philosophy to<br />

the next level. eloramill.ca<br />

When you are in Fergus be sure to check out Wesley<br />

Clarke’s Daddy’s Butcher Shop. Clarke is taking<br />

orders for the holiday season. He is featuring<br />

turkeys (whole birds or boneless roasts), prime

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

rib, tenderloin or sirloin (cut to size), pork roasts<br />

with crackling, duck, goose, pheasant, capons and<br />

Cornish hens. 168 St. Andrew Street West, Fergus,<br />

daddysbutcher.ca<br />

Woolwich<br />

Many folks will likely be disappointed that Hilltop<br />

Acres Poultry Products will no longer be selling at<br />

the popular stand at the equally popular St. Jacobs<br />

Market. The farm store in Bloomingdale announced<br />

recently that it will focus on on-farm sales and will<br />

be open for business Tuesday to Saturday.<br />

New Hamburg<br />

Chef/owners Klaus Ristanovic and Janet Duncan<br />

opened Jake and Humphrey’s Bistro in a charming<br />

old house on Peel Street about 8 years ago. On<br />

a recent visit the menu featured butter-seared<br />

scallops, herbed goat cheese tart, braised short<br />

ribs, Duck confit, and grilled salmon with Catalan<br />

relish. White pumpkin pie with white chocolate<br />

curls and homemade ice cream was a knock out.<br />

The house made bread is also delicious. 196 Peel St,<br />

New Hamburg, jakeandhumphreys.com<br />

Built in 1868 in elegant Italianate architectural style,<br />

Puddicombe House was converted into a restaurant,<br />

bed and breakfast, spa and salon in 2004. In 2016,<br />

Puddicombe Banquet and Event Hall was designed<br />

and built to complement the original building, for<br />

up to 250 banquet guests. The restaurant seats 60<br />

diners, in three dining rooms. Chef Lance Edward’s<br />

burgers were voted “The Best Burger in the <strong>Waterloo</strong><br />

Region.” Baked Trout, seasoned with pomegranate,<br />

cranberry, and scallions is a local favourite.<br />

puddicombehouse.com<br />

Stratford<br />

The folks at Stratford’s The Red Rabbit and Okazu<br />

85 Downie love building new, worker-owned<br />

restaurants from (just about) the ground up. It<br />

<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong>/<strong>January</strong> <strong>2019</strong>| 31<br />

gives them the opportunity to offer fair wages<br />

and year round employment — and of course<br />

offer their delicious food to the early risers. Old<br />

Man & Son is aiming to open in <strong>December</strong>, serving<br />

breakfast and lunch 7am to 2 pm, Wednesday to<br />

Sunday. Old Man & Son offers Community Shared<br />

Restaurant purchases — put your dollars into use<br />

as prepayment, in return for future products or<br />

services. These shares are sometimes referred to<br />

as “restaurant futures.” You can find the form at<br />

oldmanandson.com 75 <strong>Wellington</strong> Street, Stratford,<br />

Wed to Sun 7am–2pm, 519-305-7575<br />

Stratford Chefs School Dough is a gift certificate<br />

program where “dough” (aka dollars) may be<br />

applied towards any SCS merchandise, Dinner<br />

Series, and Open Kitchen cooking class. Purchase<br />

SCS Dough valued at $120 for only $100. SCS<br />

Dough can be purchased at the Administration<br />

Office at 192 Ontario Street. Available in $5, $10<br />

and $20 denominations and is redeemable at full<br />

denomination value. Some restrictions apply. 519-<br />

271-1414, stratfordchef.com<br />

We want your BUZZ!<br />

Do you have culinary news or upcoming events<br />

that you’d like us to share?<br />

Every issue, <strong>Eatdrink</strong> reaches more than<br />

50,000 readers throughout <strong>Waterloo</strong> Region &<br />

<strong>Wellington</strong> County in print,<br />

and thousands more online.<br />

Get in touch with us at editor@eatdrink.ca and/or<br />

connect directly with our Social Media Editor<br />

Bryan Lavery at bryan@eatdrink.ca<br />

Submission deadline for the next issue is <strong>January</strong> 5.<br />

Saturday Brunch<br />

11am–3pm<br />

– Build Your<br />

Own Caesars<br />

& Brunch<br />

Mimosas!<br />

Dinner<br />

TUES–SAT<br />

Catering<br />

DINNER New Year’s Eve!<br />

Prix Fixe Menu<br />

1st<br />

Anniversary<br />

Celebration!<br />

Saturday,<br />

<strong>January</strong> 5<br />

226.476.4418<br />

295 Lancaster St. W.<br />

Kitchener<br />


32 |<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong>/<strong>January</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

Beer<br />

Cold, and Dark<br />

Malty Darker Beers, for Winter<br />


eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Goodbye light lagers. Adios radlers and beers<br />

that taste like ice cream. So long, fruit<br />

beers. As the thermometer drops<br />

and the sun goes down earlier,<br />

it’s time to restock the beer fridge with<br />

malty, darker beers to suit the season.<br />

Here are 12 stellar selections from<br />

Southwestern Ontario brewers. Most will<br />

require a personal visit to purchase at the<br />

brewery’s in-house beer store. More and<br />

more, craft breweries are also launching<br />

online stores offering beer delivered to<br />

your door.<br />

No Marzen for Eror by Innocente<br />

Brewing Company, <strong>Waterloo</strong>. Misspelling<br />

“error” is no mistake and neither is this<br />

Oktoberfest lager. The marzen style of beer<br />

originated in Bavaria and is<br />

traditionally associated<br />

with the change of<br />

seasons. Innocente’s<br />

version is copper in<br />

colour, not as dark as<br />

one might expect, and<br />

has a hint of citrus hop<br />

flavour.<br />

Nighthawk Weizenbock by<br />

Toboggan Brewing, London. More<br />

inspiration from the beers of Bavaria, this<br />

time from the fermenters at London’s popular<br />

Richmond Row craft brewery. Weizenbocks,<br />

dubbed by some as winter wheat beers, have<br />

been brewed since the early 1900s and that<br />

the style isn’t more widely<br />

known (and brewed)<br />

is mysterious. The<br />

Toboggan take is a<br />

deep red with aromas<br />

of banana and clove.<br />

Nighthawk is a wonderful<br />

fall beer choice best enjoyed with patience,<br />

from a tulip glass. It’s a low 14 IBU but a<br />

strong 8 per cent alcohol.<br />

Black Coal Stout by<br />

Railway City Brewing, St.<br />

Thomas. A seriously good stout<br />

from the 10-year-old St. Thomas<br />

brewery best known for Dead<br />

Elephant IPA, Black Coal almost<br />

lives up to its name in terms of<br />

colour — I’d call it dark brown.<br />

Rich in coffee and dark chocolate<br />

aromas. And is that a hint of rye<br />

bread? Named for St. Thomas’<br />

railway heritage, Black Coal is a<br />

cold-weather reward for a day’s work well done.<br />

Ghost Cow by <strong>Wellington</strong> Brewery,<br />

Guelph. Spicy and dark, anyone? Ghost Cow<br />

is a milk stout<br />

brewed with ghost,<br />

habanero, and<br />

Scotch bonnet<br />

peppers as well as<br />

cocoa. It clocks in<br />

at a pleasant 7.1 per<br />

cent alcohol.


VISIT<br />







HOURS<br />

STORE<br />

1OAM-7PM<br />


<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

McNall’s Mission by Cowbell<br />

Brewing, Blyth. One of a series of beers<br />

named for the colourful characters of Blyth,<br />

this is a honey brown named<br />

in honour of George McNall,<br />

who served in both the First<br />

and Second World Wars. One<br />

hundred years ago McNall<br />

received the Military Medal for<br />

his devotion to duty as a scout.<br />

Now available at the LCBO,<br />

McNall’s Mission incorporates<br />

sweet, savoury brown malts<br />

with local honey. Cowbell has<br />

been brewing it since 2017 and<br />

selling it on site and at craft-friendly pubs.<br />

It’s entry onto LCBO shelves is certain to<br />

accelerate its popularity while honouring a<br />

local veteran.<br />

Hans and Franz by<br />

Forked River, London. A<br />

German pilsner, Hans and<br />

Franz strikes a nice balance that<br />

works well with fare such as<br />

bratwurst. It’s not at the LCBO,<br />

Beer Store, or grocery stores so<br />

you’ll have to show your love<br />

by visiting the brewery store,<br />

or flaunt your tech abilities by<br />

ordering online.<br />

Spice Up Your Life by Storm Stayed<br />

Brewing, London. Spice Up Your Life is a<br />

pumpkin spice latte milk<br />

stout. Sure, that flavour<br />

combination will cause<br />

beer purists to cringe,<br />

but for those who always<br />

wanted to combine their<br />

favourite cold and hot<br />

drink flavours, this could<br />

be it. Besides, what good is a beer fridge in the<br />

fall without at least one pumpkin beer?<br />

Autumn by Anderson Craft Ales,<br />

London. The artists of<br />

Anderson make it easy<br />

to guide us through<br />

the beer seasons with<br />

releases named for each.<br />

Autumn is a marzen,<br />

available in 355 mL cans<br />

at the brewery’s bottle<br />

shop. Sure, we like Summer better, but do you<br />

blame us?<br />


KEGS<br />


4OO<br />

1OAM-6PM<br />

SUNDAY:<br />

US<br />


742-2732 EXT 152<br />

(519)<br />




34 |<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong>/<strong>January</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

The Heavy Horse by Shakespeare<br />

Brewing. A farmhouse ale, Heavy Horse gets<br />

its flavour from<br />

yeast cultivated<br />

from an apple<br />

orchard and honey<br />

from Nith Valley<br />

Apiaries in New<br />

Hamburg. It’s 7 per cent alcohol and 25 IBU. A<br />

fine reward for a hard day’s work on the farm<br />

— or at the office.<br />

Bronzeback Ale by Bayside Brewing,<br />

Erieau. There are lots of great reasons to<br />

daytrip to this Lake Erie resort<br />

town south of Chatham.<br />

High on the list is a visit to<br />

Bayside Brewing, where the<br />

beer of choice on a chilly day<br />

is Bronzeback Ale. Named as<br />

a tribute to local fishing —<br />

bronzeback is also known as<br />

smallmouth bass — this beer is<br />

copper in colour with flavours<br />

of burnt caramel and toffee. It’s<br />

been a Bayside mainstay since 2013.<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Natterjack Toad by Natterjack<br />

Brewing, West<br />

Lorne. Natterjack<br />

opened in September<br />

as a tribute to<br />

young brewer Matt<br />

Soos. His family<br />

is featuring the Belgian blonde recipe Matt<br />

developed as a student at Niagara College. The<br />

taste twist is that it includes pistachios. It’s<br />

available only at the brewery store.<br />

<strong>Waterloo</strong> Dark by <strong>Waterloo</strong> Brewing,<br />

<strong>Waterloo</strong>. If you’re a duck, deer or<br />

moose hunter, or are lucky enough<br />

to know someone who is, this is<br />

the dark lager to pair with wild<br />

game. Widely available, <strong>Waterloo</strong><br />

Dark is brewed with Canadian<br />

malted barley and imported hops<br />

and tastes lighter than you’d<br />

expect from the colour.<br />

GEORGE MACKE is a Southwestern<br />

Ontario craft beer explorer who spends too<br />

much time at the LCBO and craft breweries.

#ItsWhatWeDrink<br />


144 DOWNIE ST, STRATFORD, ON 519 • 814 • 7926<br />


’til ‘til the COWBELLs s come home!<br />

Now available for home for delivery! home VisitCOWBELLBREWING.COM<br />

delivery!<br />

and shop shop<br />

online.<br />


1-844-523-4724 WWW.COWBELLBREWIN

36 |<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong>/<strong>January</strong> <strong>2019</strong> eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Wine<br />

The Gift of Wine<br />

Some Suggestions for This Holiday Season<br />


Giving a bottle of wine as a gift<br />

over the holiday season is<br />

always a great way to leave an<br />

impression, but sometimes<br />

selecting the right wine is not easy. You want<br />

the recipient to appreciate and enjoy your<br />

thoughtful offering, so here are some tips to<br />

help you choose.<br />

Knowing what kind of wine recipients<br />

might like can be helpful, but often you may<br />

not know if they prefer red or white wine or<br />

sweeter or dryer styles. If you know what they<br />

favour, great. If not, don’t worry too much<br />

about it; wine is a gift that can always be<br />

(shhhhh) regifted.<br />

A general rule of etiquette to keep in mind<br />

when bringing wine as a host or hostess gift<br />

is that there is no expectation that the bottle<br />

Giving a bottle of wine as a gift over<br />

the holiday season is always a<br />

great way to leave an impression,<br />

but sometimes selecting the right<br />

wine is not easy. You want the recipient to<br />

appreciate and enjoy your thoughtful offering,<br />

so here are some tips to help you choose.<br />

Knowing what kind of wine recipients<br />

might like can be helpful, but often you may<br />

not know if they prefer red or white wine or<br />

sweeter or dryer styles. If you know what they<br />

favour, great. If not, don’t worry too much<br />

about it; wine is a gift that can always be<br />

(shhhhh) regifted.<br />

A general rule of etiquette to keep in mind<br />

when bringing wine as a host or hostess gift<br />

is that there is no expectation that the bottle<br />

be opened that evening. Therefore if you have<br />

selected a white wine you do not need to chill<br />

it before bringing it. On the other hand, if you<br />

have been invited for a dinner and are asked<br />

to bring a bottle of wine it is expected that the<br />

be opened that evening. Therefore if you have<br />

selected a white wine you do not need to chill<br />

it before bringing it. On the other hand, if you<br />

have been invited for a dinner and are asked<br />

to bring a bottle of wine it is expected that<br />

the wine you bring will be opened, so chilling<br />

the white wine is appropriate.<br />

Around the holidays many Ontario<br />

wineries offer gift baskets that they have<br />

assembled with their wines and other local<br />

Ontario products. The baskets are often<br />

impressive and while they can often be a little<br />

pricey they can save you time should you<br />

want to give such a gift.<br />

For those who would like to include a bottle<br />

in their own gift baskets, or are looking for a<br />

few Ontario wines that will make sensational<br />

gifts, here are some suggestions.<br />

wine you bring will be opened, so chilling the<br />

white wine is appropriate.<br />

Around the holidays many Ontario wineries<br />

offer gift baskets that they have assembled<br />

with their wines and other local Ontario<br />

products. The baskets are often impressive<br />

and while they can often be a little pricey they<br />

can save you time should you want to give<br />

such a gift.<br />

For those who would like to include a bottle<br />

in their own gift baskets, or are<br />

looking for a few Ontario wines that<br />

will make sensational gifts, here are<br />

some suggestions.<br />

Westcott Estate Pinot Noir 2015<br />

(Vintages <strong>#4</strong>27500, $29.95)<br />

Ontario’s cool climate is perfect<br />

for top notch elegant pinot<br />

noir. Westcott’s vineyards are<br />

located on south-facing slopes<br />

in Niagara’s Vinemount Ridge<br />

appellation resulting in longer<br />

sun exposure and riper fruit<br />

at harvest. This wine is a fine<br />

example of a medium-bodied,

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong>/<strong>January</strong> <strong>2019</strong>| 37<br />

Taste the elements.<br />

1709 Front Road, St. Williams, Norfolk County, ON<br />

Tastings, Tours & Events<br />

burningkilnwinery.ca 519.586.9858<br />


eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Alton Farms<br />


HO HO HO<br />

Merlot<br />

POUR<br />

THE<br />




SARNIA<br />

LAKE<br />

HURON<br />

7<br />

21<br />

Grand<br />

Bend<br />

Forest<br />

Aberarder Line<br />

21<br />

402<br />

London<br />

77 km<br />

5547 Aberarder Line, Plympton-Wyoming<br />

519-899-2479 • altonfarmsestatewinery.com<br />

dry red wine with red berry fruits, anise,<br />

mushroom, earthy and smoky notes.<br />

Weather Rock Cabernet Franc<br />

(LCBO #558809, $14.10) While some<br />

of the 2016 vintage may still be<br />

found on the shelf at the LCBO, the<br />

Ontario cabernet franc was flying<br />

out of the store so quickly the<br />

2017 vintage was released earlier<br />

than expected to meet demand.<br />

It’s a medium-bodied wine, dry<br />

and loaded with red and<br />

black berry fruits. The<br />

2017 vintage has a little<br />

more tannins, perfect<br />

to pair with rare and<br />

medium rare steaks.<br />

Weather Rock is a virtual<br />

winery produced<br />

at Harrow’s Oxley Estate Winery<br />

and wines under the Weather<br />

Rock label are only available at<br />

the LCBO.<br />

Colchester Ridge Estate<br />

Winery “CREW” Merlot 2016<br />

(VINTAGES #310532, $17.95)<br />

Merlot has traditionally been used as a<br />

blending grape in Bordeaux but in many<br />

new world wine regions it is often bottled as<br />

a single varietal. CREW’s merlot is its best<br />

offering to date of this grape, and is offered at<br />

an insanely cheap price point that will stand<br />

up to many $40 - $60 California merlots. This<br />

is a full-bodied, dry, complex velvety wine<br />

with fruit forward blackberry, black plum,<br />

black cherry notes, with cedar and tobacco<br />

characteristics. Exceptional value, buy this<br />

one while you can!<br />

Mastronardi Estate Winery<br />

Syrah 2016 (VINTAGES #581223,<br />

$24.95)<br />

Syrah, also known as shiraz, is made<br />

from the same grape and can be<br />

very different in style depending<br />

on where it is grown. Shiraz is<br />

commonly identified as the style<br />

of wine produced in Australia,<br />

ripe and full-bodied, while syrah<br />

is associated with a lighter and<br />

leaner red wine. Mastronardi’s<br />

syrah is medium plus in body,<br />

dry, black fruit and a hint of<br />

cracked black pepper. Give this<br />

wine as a gift to someone who<br />

enjoys a glass of wine around the<br />

fireplace on one of Ontario’s cold<br />

winter nights.<br />

Casa-Dea Reserve Chardonnay 2015<br />

(VINTAGES #546812, $26.95) Some<br />

of the best Ontario chardonnays<br />

I have tasted were from Prince<br />

Edward County. The limestonerich<br />

soil found in many of the<br />

vineyards in this region offer ideal<br />

varietal expression. Medium<br />

body, dry, with ripe green<br />

apple and pear fruit notes<br />

balanced with light vanilla and<br />

butterscotch nuances from time<br />

spent in French oak barrels.<br />

Chardonnay leads the way in<br />

production as Ontario VQA’s<br />

single varietal wine.<br />

GARY KILLOPS is a CAPS Certified<br />

Sommelier who loves to talk, taste, and write about wine.<br />

He shares his tasting notes on EssexWineReview.com

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Recipes<br />

Farm to Table:<br />

Celebrating Stratford Chefs School Alumni,<br />

Recipes & Perth County Producers<br />

By Andrew Coppolino<br />

Review and Recipe Selections by TRACY TURLIN<br />

<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong>/<strong>January</strong> <strong>2019</strong>| 39<br />

My approach to life and work<br />

could be kindly described as<br />

scattered so I’ve always been a<br />

touch envious of people who are<br />

truly passionate about one thing. When that<br />

focus is aimed at celebrating and promoting<br />

their community, it’s a beautiful thing. When<br />

they’re in the food industry, it’s also delicious.<br />

This fall, that delicious thing is Farm<br />

to Table: Celebrating Stratford Chefs School<br />

Alumni, Recipes & Perth County Producers<br />

(Andrew Coppolino, Blue Moon Publishers).<br />

Andrew Coppolino is the editor of <strong>Waterloo</strong><br />

Region Eats, a food blog that I spent way too<br />

much time reading while I should have been<br />

writing this review. He’s also a food columnist<br />

for CBC Radio <strong>Waterloo</strong> and has written for<br />

a host of other respected food publications,<br />

including <strong>Eatdrink</strong>. As far as I can tell, he only<br />

takes time out from writing about food long<br />

enough to eat food.<br />

Coppolino is a champion for innovative<br />

cooking done by knowledgeable chefs using<br />

the best local products available. In Farm to<br />

Table he brings together a number of people<br />

who love this idea as much as he<br />

does. He introduces the reader<br />

to the Stratford Chefs School<br />

and the Perth County producers<br />

who are affiliated with it.<br />

Joe Mandel of The Church,<br />

Jim Morris of Rundles, and<br />

Eleanor Kane of The Old Prune<br />

began the school in 1983. They<br />

knew they needed good local<br />

talent and saw an opportunity<br />

to retain the chefs that worked<br />

during the November to March<br />

off-season in Stratford. Instead<br />

of being laid off or moving on,<br />

these chefs were now able to<br />

Author Andrew Coppolino<br />

teach, giving<br />

local budding<br />

chefs the<br />

opportunity<br />

to train with<br />

the best.<br />

Students<br />

were able<br />

to gain<br />

valuable<br />

experience<br />

in the<br />

kitchens<br />

of the<br />

three<br />

founding restaurants.<br />

SCS has always focused on the<br />

relationship between the farm and the<br />

kitchen, recognizing the importance of<br />

local, seasonal ingredients that allow chefs<br />

to express the nature of the region in their<br />

dishes. It’s about more than food; it’s about<br />

respect for the work involved in producing<br />

high quality products.<br />

SCS is a not-for-profit organization that<br />

offers well-rounded programs<br />

to prepare students for many<br />

aspects of the food industry.<br />

I love that it also offers<br />

recreational workshops for<br />

adventurous home cooks<br />

and a one-week exploratory<br />

course for those who want to<br />

find out what the industry<br />

demands and offers. The<br />

school produces chefs, food<br />

entrepreneurs, writers and<br />

photographers.<br />

Terry Manzo is one of<br />

Stratford Chefs School’s first<br />

graduates and has been a

40 |<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong>/<strong>January</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

professional freelance photographer for 30<br />

years. The book is full of her vibrant, energetic<br />

photos. Many of the shots look deceptively<br />

casual until you notice the brilliant use of light<br />

and shadow that makes subjects seem to glow.<br />

Each recipe in Farm to Table is the result of the<br />

pairing of a chef with one of his or her favourite<br />

producers and includes a profile of both.<br />

Author Kathleen Sloan-McIntosh owns Black<br />

Dog Village Pub & Bistro in Bayfield. With SCS<br />

graduate Nathaniel Beattie as executive chef,<br />

Black Dog works to expand the farm-to-table<br />

concept in Huron County. Gerhard Metzger has<br />

run Metzger’s Meat Products Inc. in Hensall<br />

since 1990. He works with local farmers to<br />

provide specialty cuts for restaurant and retail<br />

sales. Sloan-McIntosh uses Metzger’s pork<br />

to create Char Siu Pork Shoulder. It’s simply<br />

tender bits of pork shoulder slow cooked in a<br />

sweet, spicy, Chinese BBQ sauce and garnished<br />

with green onion and sesame seeds. The dish<br />

can be served as a main course or in lettuce<br />

cups as a fun appetizer.<br />

Sean Collins is the executive Chef at The<br />

Red Rabbit, a worker-owned restaurant in<br />

downtown Stratford where they strive to do<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

everything as well as possible and seem to<br />

have a blast doing it. Max Lass of Church Hill<br />

Farm aims to provide “high quality, humanely<br />

raised pork, lamb, beef and fowl”. This familyowned<br />

farm completes the farm-to-table<br />

loop by collecting vegetable trimmings from<br />

restaurants and mash from craft breweries to<br />

feed to the animals. Collins gives us Charcoal-<br />

Grilled Church Hill Farm Lamb with Herbs and<br />

Freekeh. Freekeh, the grain of young durum<br />

wheat, roasted and cracked, makes the stuffing<br />

for a butterflied leg of lamb that is then grilled<br />

to perfection.<br />

SCS is a national success because it is a<br />

local champion. It teaches professionals and<br />

amateurs alike that the heart of any good<br />

dish, fruitful business or successful restaurant<br />

is the relationship between people and place.<br />

It’s the magic that happens when all these<br />

good things come together to be greater than<br />

the sum of their parts.<br />

TRACY TURLIN is a freelance writer and dog groomer<br />

in London. Reach her at tracyturlin@gmail.com<br />

Char Sui Pork Shoulder<br />

Collaborators:<br />

Kathleen Sloan-McIntosh, Black Dog Village Pub & Bistro<br />

Gerhard Metzger, Metzger’s Meat Products Inc.<br />


½ cup hoisin sauce<br />

¾ cup liquid honey<br />

½ cup soy sauce<br />

¼ cup shaoxing (Chinese cooking wine)<br />

2 tsp Chinese 5-spice powder<br />

2 tbsp fresh gingerroot, grated<br />

8 cloves garlic, finely minced<br />

½ tsp red chili flakes (optional)<br />


4 lb (1.8 kg) boneless pork shoulder, excess fat<br />

trimmed, cut into 2-inch (5 cm) chunks<br />

2 tbsp olive oil<br />

1 large onion, sliced<br />

½ tsp salt<br />

½ tsp freshly ground black pepper<br />


Sesame seeds<br />

Finely chopped green onion<br />

Butter lettuce<br />

METHOD<br />

Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C).<br />

Choose a large, oven-proof baking dish for the pork.<br />

Add the pork chunks to the dish along with the olive oil<br />

and sliced onion. Add salt and pepper and toss together<br />

thoroughly. Use heavyweight aluminum foil to cover the<br />

dish snugly. Place in the preheated oven and bake for 1<br />

hour.<br />

After an hour, pull the dish from the oven, remove the foil<br />

and add the prepared sauce to the pork. Stir this mixture<br />

well into the pork and the liquid that has accumulated: it<br />

is important not to drain this liquid.<br />

Return the dish to the oven and continue to bake for<br />

another 30 minutes. Then, give the mixture another stir<br />

and return to the oven for another 30 minutes. At this<br />

point, test a piece of the pork to see if it is done to your<br />

liking — it should be tender but not falling apart. If it is<br />

as you like it, remove from the oven, sprinkle with sesame<br />

seeds and chopped green onion and serve with butter<br />

lettuce. If you continue baking, be careful not to overbake,<br />

otherwise the pork will become too dry.

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong>/<strong>January</strong> <strong>2019</strong>| 41<br />

Recipes excerpted from Farm to Table: Celebrating Stratford Chefs School Alumni, Recipes &<br />

Perth County Producers reproduced by arrangement with the Publisher. All rights reserved.<br />

Char Sui Pork Shoulder

42 |<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong>/<strong>January</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

Charcoal-Grilled Church Hill Farm Lamb<br />

with Herbs and Freekeh<br />

Collaborators:<br />

Sean Collins, The Red Rabbit<br />

Max Lass, Church Hill Farm<br />


1 fresh boneless free-range lamb leg, butterflied<br />

¼ cup pepper, fresh ground<br />

¼ cup cumin, toasted and ground<br />

3 tbsp butter<br />

6 oz (170g) pancetta or cured pork, small dice<br />

1 large onion, minced<br />

8 cloves fresh garlic, minced<br />

Freekeh* (or farro), cooked like pasta in boiling<br />

salted water until tender, cooled<br />

kosher salt<br />

1 lemon (for juice and zest)<br />

2 eggs<br />

½ cup panko bread<br />

crumbs<br />

½ cup fresh chopped<br />

herbs (use whatever<br />

herbs you like!)<br />

olive oil to rub meat<br />

*freekeh is harvested<br />

grains from green<br />

durum wheat that is<br />

roasted and dried to<br />

create its unique smoky<br />

flavour.<br />


Sugar snap peas<br />

Butter<br />

Mustard<br />

Feta, crumbled<br />


Charcoal grill, fire pit,<br />

or propane barbecue<br />

Good quality charcoal<br />

Butcher twine<br />

Probe thermometer<br />

METHOD<br />

The night before prepare<br />

the lamb: spread lamb out<br />

on a cutting board or sheet<br />

pan and season generously<br />

with pepper and cumin<br />

on all sides. Return the<br />

seasoned lamb to the fridge<br />

and let it sit for 2–12 hours<br />

(roll it up to save space).<br />

To make the stuffing, add<br />

the butter to a large skillet<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

and cook over medium heat until just bubbling. Add the<br />

pancetta and cook until lightly crisp. Add the onion and<br />

garlic and cook until translucent. Add the cooked freekeh,<br />

salt and pepper and lemon. Remove from the heat and let<br />

cool slightly. Stir in the eggs, panko and fresh herbs and<br />

taste to adjust seasoning as needed. Refrigerate overnight.<br />

The next day, light the charcoal and let it burn until it<br />

has created a nice bed of coals in a charcoal barbecue or<br />

fire-pit with a rack. Have a second pile of burning charcoal<br />

ready to replenish the fire, if needed. If using propane,<br />

preheat the grill to medium heat.

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

In the meantime, finish the lamb. Remove meat and<br />

stuffing from the fridge and spread the lamb onto a metal<br />

tray or in a roasting pan. Season generously with salt.<br />

Spoon the stuffing in a row slightly off the centre of the<br />

meat to form a cylinder, almost from end to end. Roll the<br />

meat over and shape it into a cylinder with the seam on<br />

the bottom. Tie the cylinder tightly with 4 or 5 pieces of<br />

butcher twine, tucking any stuffing back into the cylinder.<br />

Season the outside of the meat with salt, rub lightly with<br />

olive oil and set aside.<br />

When your grill is hot enough that you can’t hold your<br />

hand over for 5 seconds, carefully place lamb roast on<br />

the grill. Grill on all sides until golden brown and slightly<br />

<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong>/<strong>January</strong> <strong>2019</strong>| 43<br />

charred (about 2-4 minutes per side). With a probe<br />

thermometer, check internal temperature every 10–15<br />

minutes. Roast until the thermometer reaches 135°–145°F<br />

(57°–63°C). If internal temperature is not reached and the<br />

surface of the meat is getting too dark, simply push coals<br />

to one side and continue cooking over indirect heat until<br />

finished. If using a propane barbecue, turn burners off<br />

on one side and move lamb to that side and close the lid.<br />

Remove the roast to a platter, cover with foil and let it rest<br />

for 15 to 30 minutes (or longer).<br />

Remove the string and carve the lamb with your sharpest<br />

knife. Serve with fresh sugar snap peas sautéed in butter,<br />

your favourite mustard and crumbled local feta.<br />

Books<br />

Provence through the Years<br />

My 25 Years in Provence: Reflections on Then and Now<br />

by Peter Mayle<br />

Review by DARIN COOK<br />

Some books are so seminal that from<br />

their first appearance they become<br />

untouchable, iconic archetypes,<br />

paving the way for future authors<br />

to imitate, but never replicate — a good<br />

storytelling recipe. I knew I was onto<br />

something of this calibre when I first read A<br />

Year in Provence by Peter Mayle when it came<br />

out in 1989. Mayle knew it too, since he has<br />

written many sequels that thread together his<br />

unique and exquisitely described outlook on<br />

French food and culture. It started out as “a<br />

year” and now, after a quarter of a century of<br />

Provencal living, Mayle is taking a look back in<br />

My 25 Years in Provence (Appetite by Random<br />

House, <strong>2018</strong>). Provence is truly a magical place<br />

that spoke to<br />

Mayle through<br />

its food — a<br />

place where<br />

vin rose is<br />

“a taste of<br />

summer in<br />

the glass”,<br />

where<br />

making<br />

goat cheese is an art<br />

form, where eating a black truffle on foie<br />

gras is “the closest thing on earth to having<br />

heaven in your mouth”, and where the night<br />

markets provide the most pleasant grocery<br />

shopping experience he can ever imagine.<br />

By taking up residence in such a unique<br />

locale, Mayle grew accustomed to picking up<br />

on the trends of the seasons by observing<br />

what farmers were up to and listening to the<br />

gossip of the patrons in local cafés. Provence<br />

is an agricultural region bursting with<br />

grape vineyards, olive groves, fig trees, and<br />

asparagus fields. It also has a bit of the wild<br />

side with truffle hunters and their goldennosed<br />

dogs secretly plying their trade to keep<br />

Author Peter Mayle

203,<br />

851<br />

44 |<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong>/<strong>January</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

their sources out of the sight of others, while<br />

game hunters with noisier instruments roam<br />

the woods in search of wild boar. Throughout<br />

the year, food festivals are governed by the<br />

seasons to display regional delicacies — rice,<br />

olives, truffles, lemons, melons, garlic. Mayle<br />

writes, “These are informal, good-natured<br />

affairs, organized by people whose sole desire<br />

is to give you a taste of pleasure, whether your<br />

particular weakness is a fresh sardine or an<br />

elderly cheese.” He continues by saying the<br />

range of festivals “supports the widely held<br />

conviction that, wherever you are in Provence,<br />

you need never go hungry.”<br />

Discover Heather's<br />

Incomparable Journeys<br />

Small Bespoke<br />

Group Tours for <strong>2019</strong><br />

Poland, Baltic States & St. Petersburg<br />

21 days, Late August <strong>2019</strong><br />

Stylish and vibrant history and culture and the<br />

sheer grandeur of Russia’s imperial city<br />

Tanzania & Zanzibar<br />

14 days, September <strong>2019</strong><br />

10-day Serengeti & Tarangire National Parks<br />

Safari,, plus 4 days Beach Resort<br />

www.heathersincomparablejourneys.ca<br />

For any and all of your travel needs<br />

519-473-8591 — Heather Wilkinson<br />

Regional Office: 31 Nottinghill Gate, Suite 203, Oakville<br />

TICO#50013851<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Just as Mayle navigated towns,<br />

fields and forests of the French<br />

countryside, so does his writing<br />

wander across Provence to suggest<br />

some of his favourite lunch items at<br />

favourite restaurants in favourite<br />

towns. With dining tips from the<br />

likes of Mayle, we could not ask for<br />

more as readers. One beloved regional<br />

speciality is bouillabaisse made with<br />

fresh seafood gathered off the coast of<br />

Marseille, which he describes as “part<br />

soup, part fish stew; delicious, but difficult<br />

to control. Many an immaculate shirtfront<br />

has suffered from garlic-stains and it is a wise<br />

customer who asks for two large napkins.”<br />

His writings about Provence have inevitably<br />

caused others to follow him. His books have<br />

drawn attention to the region and tourism<br />

has blossomed, for better or worse. Certain<br />

things have changed because of tourism.<br />

Mayle hates that cafés have been replaced by<br />

boutiques that tend to be more profitable than<br />

selling cups of coffee. But it is the qualities<br />

that remain the same, that have endured<br />

the test of time, that have withstood the<br />

invasion of foreigners, that are the qualities<br />

that made him fall in love with Provence<br />

in the first place: the slow pace of life, the<br />

marvellous weather, spirited games of boules<br />

(lawn bowling), market shopping with fresh<br />

ingredients unhampered by plastic packaging<br />

or metal cans, and a regional anise-flavoured<br />

alcohol called pastis.<br />

Even though I have been a fan of Mayle’s<br />

books since he began writing more than a<br />

quarter of a century ago, I was sadly unaware<br />

that he had passed away. I had been reading<br />

this book with the same enjoyment as always<br />

when I learned from the biographical insert<br />

on the back cover than he had died earlier<br />

this year, making this book a posthumous<br />

publication and his final words on Provence.<br />

Even though I missed his obituary in the social<br />

media news feeds back in <strong>January</strong> <strong>2018</strong>, I<br />

reverently bowed my head at the start of each<br />

new chapter to honour his soul. It was a good<br />

run and I am sad this is his last book. The world<br />

lost a great author with the death of Mayle this<br />

year, but this author’s life gave Provence to the<br />

world in a way only he could.<br />

DARIN COOK is a regular <strong>Eatdrink</strong> contributor who<br />

lives and works in Chatham-Kent.

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Think Global.<br />

Read Local.<br />

<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong>/<strong>January</strong> <strong>2019</strong>| 45<br />

Pick up your free copy<br />

wherever discerning<br />

readers and food<br />

lovers are found.<br />

eatdrink<br />

|<br />

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Rich Uncle<br />

Tavern<br />

Ignite Restaurant<br />

Group<br />

eatdrink<br />

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine<br />

David’s Bistro<br />

Celebrating Years<br />

with David Chapman<br />

|<br />

FREE<br />

Our<br />

Premiere<br />

Issue<br />

for Kitchener,<br />

<strong>Waterloo</strong>, Cambridge,<br />

Guelph & Area<br />

eatdrink<br />

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Lancaster<br />

Smokehouse<br />

Barbecue & Blues<br />

|<br />

FREE<br />


La Reina<br />

Stepping Up to the Plate in Guelph<br />

Conestoga College<br />

Transforming Together<br />

Ciders & Sours<br />

Seasonal Sensations<br />

Hammer Time!<br />

Hamilton: A Heaven for Food Lovers<br />

www.eatdrink.ca<br />

Stratford’s Gastro Scene<br />



Where to Eat & Drink in <strong>2018</strong><br />

Huron County Bounty<br />

A Conversation with<br />

Anita Stewart<br />

Culinary Adventures<br />

& Chefs Jason Bangerter,<br />

Arron Carley, Benjamin Lillico,<br />

Brian McCourt & Eric Neaves<br />

Summer Craft Beers<br />

Finding “Somewhereness”<br />

Twelve Temptations<br />

Terroir In a Glass of Wine<br />

Serving <strong>Waterloo</strong> Region & <strong>Wellington</strong> County<br />

www.eatdrink.ca<br />


Little Louie’s Burger Joint<br />

& Soupery<br />

Serving <strong>Waterloo</strong> Region & <strong>Wellington</strong> County<br />

www.eatdrink.ca<br />

In June <strong>2018</strong>, we began<br />

serving Kitchener, <strong>Waterloo</strong>, Cambridge & Guelph,<br />

as well as the rest of <strong>Waterloo</strong> Region and <strong>Wellington</strong> County,<br />

with a new and separate publication. We invite you to join the conversation!<br />

We also continue to serve London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario with our original publication.<br />

Retro, Refreshed, in Cambridge<br />

Rosé-Coloured Glasses<br />

The Trending Wine for Summer<br />

Let’s Get Grilling<br />

Recipes from The Cooking Ladies<br />

PLUS every story online.<br />

LONDON’S<br />

Easy to read.<br />

LOCAL Easy FLAVOUR to share.<br />

CULINARY GUIDE Volume 5<br />

LONDON’S<br />

Easy to search.<br />

Fully adaptive.<br />

More features.<br />

eatdrink.ca<br />

And Get Social!<br />


46 |<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong>/<strong>January</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

The Lighter Side<br />

Salvaging the Magic of Eggnog<br />


I<br />

have noticed that eggnog is now<br />

being stocked in grocery stores long<br />

before Christmas, infringing not<br />

only on American Thanksgiving in<br />

November, but also Canadian Thanksgiving<br />

and Halloween in October. These are three<br />

significant holidays being upstaged by<br />

Christmas cheer before its time. Being in<br />

stores earlier merely widens the window of<br />

opportunity for it to be consumed.<br />

“What is that doing here?” my son asked<br />

last year, pointing at a wall of eggnog cartons<br />

in a grocery display.<br />

“It’s not Christmas yet,<br />

is it?”<br />

It was early October,<br />

with several nonyuletide<br />

festivities<br />

still to come. My two<br />

sons believe eggnog<br />

was created for Santa<br />

Claus, and that normal<br />

humans are allowed to<br />

join in by purchasing<br />

the cartons sold at stores, so usually it wasn’t<br />

until <strong>December</strong> that we started buying eggnog<br />

regularly to get the Christmas cheer rolling.<br />

The sign over the eggnog display<br />

proclaimed “Not Just for Christmas<br />

Anymore!” But I think most people feel<br />

that eggnog is just for Christmas. Who was<br />

this sign trying to fool? Since I love eggnog<br />

so much, I guess it fooled me. Cast under<br />

the spell of that grocery store marketing,<br />

I decided to see if a Christmas beverage<br />

could hold its own when straying from its<br />

intended holiday. When I brought home<br />

the first carton one week before Canadian<br />

Thanksgiving, my wife rolled her eyes.<br />

“What is that doing here?” she questioned.<br />

“It’s not <strong>December</strong> yet.”<br />

I shared her misgivings, but I drank my<br />

first cup anyway. It tasted great, because the<br />

sweet, creamy nectar had not touched my lips<br />

for over ten months. But it felt odd being out<br />

of season.<br />

After learning that <strong>December</strong> 24th has been<br />

declared National Eggnog Day, I considered<br />

trying my hand at creating homemade<br />

eggnog. Alton Brown, the culinary genius of<br />

Food Network fame, is my go-to guy when<br />

experimenting with new recipes and I found<br />

an eggnog recipe in his book, Good Eats 2: The<br />

Middle Years. Alton strongly advises that “the<br />

key to success in making eggnog is patience”<br />

and I went into eggnog production hoping<br />

that I had the stamina to keep up. There<br />

was a lot of stand mixer beating involved<br />

(where the patience<br />

comes in handy). The<br />

combination of eggs,<br />

sugar, milk, cream,<br />

and nutmeg ended<br />

up being a delicious<br />

version of eggnog like<br />

we had never had from<br />

a carton. Alton’s recipe<br />

calls for the addition<br />

of rum, brandy, or<br />

bourbon, but that<br />

would come after the kids went to bed.<br />

Since it had started appearing early, I’d had<br />

my fill of more eggnog than most years. Even<br />

so, I convinced my family that making a fresh<br />

batch on National Eggnog Day could be our<br />

new tradition, to serve Santa the best we had<br />

to offer. Before bedtime, my sons placed a<br />

mug of eggnog and a plate of cookies by the<br />

chimney. When they weren’t looking I poured<br />

a shot of rum into the mug. As Christmas<br />

Eve drew to a close I imbibed one more glass<br />

of our homemade batch, just as Santa would<br />

do when he arrived. Mine also had an extra<br />

dash of rum — it seemed wrong, on National<br />

Eggnog Day, to not enjoy one last swig in the<br />

most appropriate way before retiring it until<br />

next Christmas. Or October.<br />

DARIN COOK is a regular <strong>Eatdrink</strong> contributor who<br />

lives and works in Chatham-Kent.

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong>/<strong>January</strong> <strong>2019</strong>| 47<br />

a<br />

movement<br />

for<br />

restaurants<br />

who believe<br />

local food<br />

matters.<br />

®<br />

A Feast On® Certification means<br />

you’re fighting the good food fight.<br />

You’re supporting our farmers<br />

and putting local food first.<br />

To get certified, visit:<br />



48 |<strong>December</strong> <strong>2018</strong>/<strong>January</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

The Perfect Holiday<br />

Dinner Needs<br />

Seafood<br />

All the Seafood You<br />

Could Want & More<br />

Fresh Seafood Arriving Daily<br />


Hooray! Your file is uploaded and ready to be published.

Saved successfully!

Ooh no, something went wrong!