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<strong>GLIMPSE</strong><br />

SALON<br />

INTERNATIONAL<br />

DE LA<br />

LINGERIE<br />

PARIS<br />

JE T’AIME<br />

LINGERIE, SOMEWHERE<br />

BETWEEN INTIMACY,<br />

NOSTALGIA & PASSION<br />

F/W 19.20


<strong>GLIMPSE</strong> N°1<br />

EDITO 3 — INTERVIEW with R<strong>en</strong>aud Cambuzat 4-5 — FASHION SERIES Nicolas Méssina 6<br />

— WE LOVE NATURAL FIBERS by Willy Hermann 7 — 10 BRANDS to watch 8-9 —<br />

LINGERIE, BETWEEN INTIMACY, NOSTALGIA & PASSION by Frédéric Godart 10<br />

— FASHION SERIES Nicolas Méssina 11 — BACKSTAGE with Monique Baumann 12-13 —<br />

F/W 19.20 TRENDS by Vanessa Causse 14 — PARIS, JE T’AIME 15<br />

Photo cover : Estelle Rancurel for Nicolas Méssina / Style : Delphine Brossard / Hair : Stephanie Farouze #artistunit / Model : Yulia Musieichuk #supreme / Casting : Olivier Duperrin<br />

All rights reserved © Eurovet. Direction of the publication : Eurovet — Editor-in-chief : Angèle Sitbon, Cécile Vivier Guérin, Daniela Melo — Graphic design : Nicolas Alanquand


<strong>GLIMPSE</strong>, THE NEW MAGAZINE CREATED BY SALON INTERNATIONAL DE LA LINGERIE TO :<br />

EXPRESS our abundant imagination<br />

and desire to take things further. EXPLORE<br />

new areas of expression for lingerie<br />

and swimwear brands. SHOW OFF<br />

the fashion side of an industry that’s<br />

thriving. PROVOKE thought on a world<br />

that’s changing and evolving. INSPIRE<br />

transformations and reinv<strong>en</strong>t what’s<br />

possible. GIVE the floor to designers,<br />

artists, and sociologists who now gravitate<br />

around our field. REPRESENT loud and<br />

clear the expression of our exceptional<br />

expertise. STAY a step ahead, always.<br />

IMMERSE yourself in innovative, highperformance<br />

materials. DISCOVER new,<br />

must-see place in the beloved Paris<br />

that is ours. And finally SHARE with you<br />

our PASSION, for LINGERIE, FASHION<br />

& DESIGN !


→ YOUR VISION OF THE LINGERIE OF<br />

TOMORROW.<br />

Lingerie is an industry undergoing<br />

major shifts, with product offerings<br />

that have considerably expanded<br />

over the last few years. The underlying<br />

tr<strong>en</strong>ds observed in fashion,<br />

reflecting important changes in society,<br />

are now visible in a market<br />

long dominated by persist<strong>en</strong>t stereotypes.<br />

Stimulated by the emerg<strong>en</strong>ce<br />

and success of new brands, oft<strong>en</strong><br />

based online and both agile and responsive,<br />

lingerie is now showing<br />

signs of op<strong>en</strong>ness and a cross-category<br />

approach that seem built to last:<br />

an emphasis on comfort, simplification,<br />

and innovation, the success of<br />

bold styles inspired by streetwear,<br />

sport, or mix-and-match tr<strong>en</strong>ds, the<br />

developm<strong>en</strong>t of multi-product categories<br />

(lifewear, homewear…), new<br />

repres<strong>en</strong>tations of the body and interpretations<br />

of femininity… and more.<br />

This being said, rec<strong>en</strong>t evolutions<br />

cannot make us forget the realities of<br />

an industry that functions on several<br />

levels and is still fragm<strong>en</strong>ted among<br />

sales networks and populations with<br />

differ<strong>en</strong>t shopping habits that are<br />

sometimes hard to reconcile. This is<br />

undoubtedly because we’re dealing<br />

with an intimate product related to<br />

the body and its perception, and, unlike<br />

what we see in fashion, lingerie<br />

reflects shopping tr<strong>en</strong>ds that largely<br />

differ betwe<strong>en</strong> g<strong>en</strong>erations. Perhaps<br />

we will have to wait for another t<strong>en</strong><br />

or fifte<strong>en</strong> years, with a change of g<strong>en</strong>eration,<br />

to see more homog<strong>en</strong>ous<br />

tr<strong>en</strong>ds that align with what is worn<br />

by 15 to 35-year-olds.<br />

In terms of visual codes and patterns<br />

of repres<strong>en</strong>tation, the industry is curr<strong>en</strong>tly<br />

polarized betwe<strong>en</strong> archetypes<br />

that, while they have indeed evolved,<br />

remain quite active and clichéd,<br />

whether it’s sexy empowerm<strong>en</strong>t,<br />

opportunistic Body Positivism, or<br />

pretty chic that everyone loves.<br />

Within this context, we feel that it’s<br />

important to convey a vision that reflects<br />

the complexity of our societies<br />

and the diversity of movem<strong>en</strong>ts and<br />

curr<strong>en</strong>ts within them. Lingerie is a<br />

fascinating product due to the variety<br />

of societal matters it addresses. Its<br />

intimate character touches on differ<strong>en</strong>t<br />

major issues such as the body,<br />

the spirit, the possible relationships<br />

betwe<strong>en</strong> the two, and, more broadly,<br />

womanhood and femininity. These<br />

are deep and demanding subjects<br />

that are always tough for a brand to<br />

deal with in a truly fair manner, but to<br />

which we believe we can bring new,<br />

more op<strong>en</strong> and emotional answers<br />

that are less stereotyped and more<br />

stimulating in their differ<strong>en</strong>t forms.<br />

Adding a s<strong>en</strong>se of meaning seems to<br />

us to be ess<strong>en</strong>tial. This is what we’re<br />

trying to do today through CL and<br />

our various brands.<br />

→ IN TERMS OF YOUR ROLE AS ARTIS-<br />

TIC DIRECTOR, AND THE STRATEGY<br />

YOU’RE PUTTING IN PLACE AS PART OF<br />

THE REVAMP OF CL.<br />

Beyond these firm beliefs and values<br />

that it repres<strong>en</strong>ts, which drive<br />

us forward, CL is the new id<strong>en</strong>tity<br />

of this group. Powerful, innovative,<br />

differ<strong>en</strong>t… this overarching brand<br />

positions itself as a design studio and<br />

now appears on a variety of brand<br />

elem<strong>en</strong>ts via the designation designed<br />

by CL. Under this group name, all the<br />

brands that we’ve repositioned come<br />

together in a complem<strong>en</strong>tary fashion:<br />

Chantelle, Passionata, Chantal Thomass,<br />

and Femilet (a Danish brand<br />

that we’ve started to introduce to<br />

the world). To these wholesale<br />

brands, we’re adding differ<strong>en</strong>t retail<br />

concepts, including CL, which is also<br />

the name of our new international<br />

concept. With this diverse assortm<strong>en</strong>t<br />

of brands, we wanted to take a<br />

cross-category approach that allows<br />

us to develop perfect complem<strong>en</strong>tarity<br />

betwe<strong>en</strong> our brands, but also to<br />

reaffirm each brand’s uniqu<strong>en</strong>ess.<br />

This way, we are now able to pres<strong>en</strong>t,<br />

whether it’s within a CL multibrand<br />

space in a departm<strong>en</strong>t store or with<br />

our indep<strong>en</strong>d<strong>en</strong>t cli<strong>en</strong>ts, a group assortm<strong>en</strong>t<br />

that is complete, cross-category<br />

in nature, unique, inspiring, and<br />

perfectly adapted to each <strong>en</strong>vironm<strong>en</strong>t<br />

dep<strong>en</strong>ding on specific needs.<br />

INTERVIEW<br />

with RENAUD<br />

CAMBUZAT<br />

CHIEF CREATIVE OFFICE @ CL<br />

@CLSTUDIO_ <strong>GLIMPSE</strong> AW/18.19<br />

4


5


9<br />

PHOTO : GEORGE GVASALIA


Willy Hermann<br />

WE LOVE<br />

NATURAL FIBERS<br />

MARTIN HERMANN, CEO @ WILLY HERMANN<br />

→ DO YOU FEEL THAT NATURAL FI-<br />

BERS HAVE SEEN INCREASED DEMAND<br />

IN RECENT TIMES ? DO YOU HAVE NEW<br />

CLIENTS IN THE INTIMATES SECTOR ?<br />

ARE THEY LOOKING FOR MORE SOF-<br />

TNESS OR LIGHTNESS OR LUXURY AND<br />

EXCEPTIONAL NATURAL FABRICS ?<br />

We recognize a stronger demand for<br />

natural fibers. This new demand can<br />

come in many ways but in most cases<br />

features a particular added value to<br />

distinguish the garm<strong>en</strong>t that will include<br />

it. It can be a combination of<br />

(functional) synthetic fibers with natural<br />

fibers (cotton or Micro-Modal)<br />

in a two-sided fabric construction<br />

where natural wearing comfort is<br />

combined for beauty and functionality.<br />

What we also see is a stronger<br />

demand for aspects like wool, silk or<br />

cashmere. Not as 100% garm<strong>en</strong>ts,<br />

but a certain bl<strong>en</strong>d of these luxury fibers<br />

(together with cotton or Modal)<br />

to add softness, wearing comfort<br />

and a distinguished hand to these<br />

garm<strong>en</strong>ts. Wool is also promin<strong>en</strong>t in<br />

sportswear applications. For some<br />

brands, the use of premium natural<br />

fibers is also part of marketing and<br />

upgrading. It also has to be pointed<br />

out that wool or silk have excell<strong>en</strong>t<br />

functional properties and offer a high<br />

degree of wearing comfort.<br />

We also have the impression that<br />

brands are searching for “new fibers”,<br />

so anything that has not yet had a<br />

huge market in our industry but will<br />

offer some point of differ<strong>en</strong>ce. Cupro<br />

fibres or T<strong>en</strong>cel are examples of<br />

this. But here the issue of fiber stability<br />

and dyeability remain uncertain<br />

(at least for circular knitted goods).<br />

Another example could be all aspects<br />

of “sustainability” (organic cotton,<br />

GOTS).<br />

→ WHAT ARE THE MAIN CONCERNS<br />

FOR YOUR CLIENTS ?<br />

One of the main issues in this field is<br />

the topic of material testing and technical<br />

values. Wh<strong>en</strong> working with<br />

wool, silk or cashmere, or bl<strong>en</strong>ds of<br />

fine natural yarns with synthetics in<br />

one fabric, some new rules of the<br />

game shall apply. Natural fabrics of<br />

this kind may not be judged on standard<br />

grounds. Issues like hairiness,<br />

pilling, shrinkage values, or perhaps<br />

other fiber contamination, color<br />

achievem<strong>en</strong>t (for 2 compon<strong>en</strong>t materials)<br />

all need to be addressed and<br />

defined with the customer. Wh<strong>en</strong> <strong>en</strong>tering<br />

new fields of natural fabrics,<br />

the rules of the game also need to be<br />

reassessed. It’s all about nature, and<br />

nature is variable.<br />

→ HOW DO YOU FEEL ABOUT THE LIN-<br />

GERIE MARKET OVER THE SHORT AND<br />

MEDIUM TERMS ? WHAT PLACE WILL<br />

TAKE SUSTAINABLE DEVELOPMENT<br />

HAVE IN YOUR STRATEGY ?<br />

Some 10 years ago, there was already<br />

a phase of strong interest from a<br />

broad customer base in sustainable<br />

natural fabrics, notably organic cotton.<br />

Some projects materialized, but<br />

in the <strong>en</strong>d the whole topic remained<br />

a bit on the sidelines for the overall<br />

lingerie market.<br />

Today, for 2 or 3 seasons now, we’ve<br />

se<strong>en</strong> a resurge of this issue on a broader<br />

base: organic cotton, recycled PA<br />

or PES fibers (as pre- or post-consumer<br />

recycling). The g<strong>en</strong>eral interest<br />

is – once again - strong but it has yet<br />

to be prov<strong>en</strong> whether bigger and longer-lasting<br />

customer programs will<br />

emerge. So, we shall see if the sustainability<br />

topic itself proves to be a<br />

sustainable concept for the market.<br />

One problem that might occur if a<br />

bigger number of important market<br />

participants should launch perman<strong>en</strong>t<br />

programs made from sustainable fibers<br />

could be fiber availability. Will<br />

there be <strong>en</strong>ough supply of such fibers<br />

- and of the right quality? For organic<br />

cotton, the quality varies considerably<br />

from one crop to the next.<br />

For many fabric suppliers “sustainability”<br />

is very much a topic of purchasing<br />

the right yarns. Of course,<br />

we do that too, but we have certainly<br />

evolved beyond that in many ways. In<br />

our dye house, for instance, we have<br />

a strong focus on <strong>en</strong>ergy recycling<br />

(from air and water), on reintroduction<br />

of purified wastewater in the production<br />

process (2nd or 3rd re-use),<br />

and the purification of wastewater in<br />

our own treatm<strong>en</strong>t plant. We run an<br />

<strong>en</strong>vironm<strong>en</strong>tal and <strong>en</strong>ergy managem<strong>en</strong>t<br />

system according to DIN ISO<br />

14001 and 50001. Our knitting plant<br />

is also Oeko-Tex STeP-certified.<br />

7<br />

WILLY-HERMANN.COM


10 BRANDS<br />

to WATCH<br />

MAISON LEJABY 1<br />

MAISON LEJABY SURPRISES US WITH<br />

EACH PASSING COLLECTION. THIS<br />

FRENCH BRAND EXPANDS ITS ICONIC<br />

NUFIT RANGE WITH NEW CONCEPTS.<br />

NUFIT, A CONTRACTION OF NUDITY<br />

& FITNESS, FEATURES A DELICATE<br />

SECOND-SKIN EFFECT WHERE A SEE-<br />

THROUGH LOOK IS COMBINED WITH AN<br />

ULTRA-GRAPHIC TRIPLE STRIPE IN EVERY<br />

SIZE, DUE TO A HIGHLY TECHNICAL<br />

VOILE THAT PROMISES COMFORT AND<br />

SUPPORT, WHILE MAINTAINING THIS<br />

VERY MUCH ON-TREND TRANSPARENT<br />

EFFECT. IT OFFERS AN ELEGANT, GRA-<br />

PHIC SIGNATURE STYLE.<br />

4<br />

CHANTELLE 2<br />

AS PART OF THE “OVERTHROW UN-<br />

DERWEAR” CAMPAIGN, CHANTELLE IS<br />

LAUNCHING A CAPSULE COLLECTION<br />

WITH EMERGING PARISIAN FASHION<br />

BRAND VICTORIA/TOMAS. THIS IS AN<br />

OBVIOUS PAIRING FOR BOTH OF THESE<br />

BRANDS, WHICH SHARE THE SAME<br />

VALUES: A POWERFUL, ELEGANT AES-<br />

THETIC, FOR PIECES THAT ARE EASY TO<br />

WEAR. THE RESULT: THE 12 ITEMS OF<br />

THE ICONIC SOFTSTRETCH RANGE, WITH<br />

A STRONG, ALLURING, SPORTY LOOK.<br />

HOM 3<br />

HOM BECOMES HOM UNDERWEAR<br />

CREATIVE, AND THUS PRESENTS A<br />

NEW BRAND IDENTITY. DEEPER THAN<br />

A SIMPLE CHANGE IN THEIR VISUAL<br />

IDENTITY, THIS BRAND’S STRATEGY IS<br />

EVOLVING TO OFFER MORE ON-TREND,<br />

CREATIVE PIECES. A WHOLE COMMU-<br />

NITY OF DESIGNING MEN WILL CARRY<br />

THE MESSAGE FAR AND WIDE.<br />

1<br />

3<br />

HANRO 4<br />

HANRO, HE TIMELESS LUXURY BRAND,<br />

PROVES YET AGAIN ITS FASHION AND<br />

ON-TREND ROOTS BY OFFERING A<br />

FULL RANGE OF OVERSIZED KNITS. IN<br />

A MINIMALIST MOOD, COMBINED WITH<br />

LUXURIOUS NATURAL MATERIALS, THESE<br />

PIECES ARE PERFECT AS PART OF THE<br />

MAJOR LAYERING TREND!<br />

5<br />

SKARLETT BLUE 5<br />

SKARLETT BLUE IS DESIGNED IN NEW<br />

YORK BY WOMEN. THE TIME HAS COME<br />

TO WEAR LINGERIE THAT’S BOTH SEXY<br />

AND COMFORTABLE. THAT’S WHY THIS<br />

BRAND OFFERS A DIFFERENT EXPE-<br />

RIENCE, WITH UNCOMPROMISING PRO-<br />

DUCTS THAT HAVE IT ALL.<br />

2<br />

@LINGERIESWIMWEARPARIS_SHOWS<br />

8


MARIEYAT 6<br />

THIS IS A LABEL THAT EXPRESSES A NEW<br />

SENSIBILITY FOR A NEW KIND OF WO-<br />

MAN. HER COLLECTIONS ARE INSPIRED<br />

BY THE NO-GENDER MOVEMENT, WITH<br />

A MODERN, COMFORTABLE DESIGN.<br />

THEY FEATURE KNIT AND SEAMLESS<br />

UNDERWEAR MADE FROM COTTON OR<br />

SILK, IN A BOLD AND UNCOMPROMISING<br />

STYLE.<br />

6<br />

LE JOURNAL INTIME 7<br />

THIS IS A BRAND THAT’S SURPRISING<br />

THE MARKETPLACE: A UNIQUE, NATURAL<br />

BODY AESTHETIC, FEATURING RETRO<br />

STYLES COMBINED WITH SPORTY DE-<br />

TAILS. THEIR ESSENCE IS MAINTAINING<br />

A BALANCE BETWEEN LIGHTWEIGHT<br />

TEXTURES AND TRANSPARENT EFFECTS.<br />

THEIR COLLECTIONS ARE MOSTLY OFFE-<br />

RED IN NUDE TONES THAT SUBTLY PAIR<br />

WITH NATURAL, TRANSLUCID TONES OF<br />

POWERNET MESH.<br />

7<br />

NICOLAS MÉSSINA 8<br />

NICOLAS MESSINA ADORNS THE LEGS<br />

OF ELEGANT AND INTRIGUING WOMEN,<br />

OFFERING A FRESH TAKE ON FRENCH<br />

HOSIERY TRADITION, WITH BOLD STYLE.<br />

THIS SEASON, HIS INSPIRATIONS SPRING<br />

FROM FLOWERS AND HERBS THAT<br />

OFFER A MULTITUDE OF BENEFICIAL<br />

PROPERTIES, CREATING A MINIMALISTIC<br />

COLLECTION INFUSED WITH POETIC<br />

GRACE.<br />

8<br />

10<br />

9<br />

JUST A CORPSE 9<br />

THIS LUXURY APPAREL BRAND DRAWS<br />

ITS INSPIRATION FROM THE WORLDS OF<br />

DANCE AND FASHION, WITH THE BODY<br />

AS ITS MAIN FOCUS AND SOURCE OF<br />

CREATIVE DESIGN. FOUNDED BY VALE-<br />

RIJA KELAVA, A SLOVENIAN TOP MODEL,<br />

AND UROŠ BELANTIČ, A DESIGNER OF<br />

BALLET COSTUMES, THIS BRAND IS<br />

MAKING WAVES IN THE LINGERIE INDUS-<br />

TRY WITH ITS POWERFULLY ARTISTIC<br />

SIGNATURE LOOK, A COMMITMENT TO<br />

SUSTAINABILITY, AND A HYBRID PRO-<br />

DUCT THAT IS BOTH TECHNICAL AND<br />

LIFESTYLE-ORIENTED.<br />

LONELY 10<br />

THIS IS A BRAND LIKE NO OTHER! WITH<br />

ITS LACY, DELICATE, GOSSAMER UN-<br />

DERWEAR, THIS NEW ZEALAND-BASED<br />

BRAND “IS INSPIRED BY THE WOMEN<br />

WHO WEAR IT”. LONELY HAS EVEN<br />

CREATED A SORT OF DIARY, THE LONELY<br />

GIRLS PROJECT, WHERE WOMEN POSE,<br />

PHOTOGRAPHED WEARING THEIR LIN-<br />

GERIE. 100% NON-RETOUCHED, THESE<br />

PHOTOS CAPTURE WOMEN AS THEY<br />

ARE, NATURALLY : WITH THEIR UNIQUE<br />

CHARACTERISTICS, THEIR TATTOOS,<br />

THEIR IMPERFECTIONS, THEIR BODY<br />

HAIR, THEIR WRINKLES… A STRONG<br />

COMMITMENT TO FREE EXPRESSION<br />

AND A BODY-POSITIVE SPIRIT.<br />

9<br />

@EXPO_SED_PARIS


10<br />

For a fashion and luxury sociologist<br />

like me, lingerie pres<strong>en</strong>ts fascinating<br />

food for thought.<br />

First of all, lingerie is a paradoxical<br />

fashion item. As a garm<strong>en</strong>t, it should<br />

normally be subject to a rationale<br />

of constant change. And yet, it is<br />

somewhat removed from this logic<br />

due to its intimate dim<strong>en</strong>sion. Indeed,<br />

fashion (in ready-to-wear, for<br />

example) requires a public space to<br />

exist: one must know what others are<br />

wearing in order to emulate them and<br />

to stand out. Lingerie does not offer<br />

this possibility, or not completely. In<br />

its removal from the public eye, it<br />

stands alone and focuses on its own<br />

universe, which is that of intimacy,<br />

oscillating betwe<strong>en</strong> comfort and seductive<br />

allure.<br />

This gives lingerie the chance to exist<br />

over an ext<strong>en</strong>ded period of time and<br />

experi<strong>en</strong>ce more stable rules of the<br />

game than the rest of the apparel industry.<br />

This is an advantage from an<br />

aesthetic point of view, because it allows<br />

for some preservation of a stylistic<br />

heritage, but it can also slow down<br />

the creative and innovative process.<br />

From this standpoint, how can lingerie<br />

brands try to advance their creative<br />

cont<strong>en</strong>t without the full b<strong>en</strong>efit<br />

of fashion’s public exist<strong>en</strong>ce? This is<br />

a marvelous chall<strong>en</strong>ge that has be<strong>en</strong><br />

tak<strong>en</strong> up by certain lingerie brands<br />

that have specifically decided to<br />

bring their aesthetic into public view.<br />

We can think of two very famous<br />

examples of this. First, Aubade, who,<br />

through their r<strong>en</strong>owned “lessons<br />

in seduction” campaign, took their<br />

perception of the rules of seduction<br />

as applied to lingerie into the public<br />

space, connected with their unique<br />

look. It was the same for Victoria’s<br />

Secret, who, through their world-famous<br />

fashion shows (known ev<strong>en</strong> in<br />

countries where their products wer<strong>en</strong>’t<br />

sold!), made public, on a regular<br />

basis, not only what had be<strong>en</strong> private<br />

(their lingerie), but also their evolutions<br />

and aesthetic innovations.<br />

More rec<strong>en</strong>tly, many lingerie brands<br />

have decided to promote creative,<br />

innovative brand positioning. This is<br />

the case, for example, with Maison<br />

Lejaby and its black-and-white campaign<br />

highlighting a natural, on-tr<strong>en</strong>d<br />

aesthetic. The same goes for the<br />

Chantelle group and its namesake<br />

brand, which has adopted a conceptual<br />

point of view on a segm<strong>en</strong>t of<br />

apparel that is traditionally based<br />

mostly on emotion.<br />

In addition, lingerie is a segm<strong>en</strong>t of<br />

fashion that has yet to be affected by<br />

the unisex and androgynous tr<strong>en</strong>d infusing<br />

the rest of the industry. Overall,<br />

the public signals that (visible)<br />

garm<strong>en</strong>ts s<strong>en</strong>d to those around us are<br />

part of a major tr<strong>en</strong>d of increasing<br />

g<strong>en</strong>der fluidity (in the Western world,<br />

in any case). Despite intriguing<br />

attempts (Les Girls Les Boys), this<br />

has not be<strong>en</strong> the case for lingerie in<br />

g<strong>en</strong>eral, which remains highly g<strong>en</strong>der-based<br />

and echoes the codes of<br />

femininity that may seem obsolete<br />

in other domains (in the professional<br />

world, for example). Giv<strong>en</strong> this fact,<br />

we may wonder about the reasons for<br />

this stability: is it a matter of a retreat<br />

FASHION SOCIOLOGIST, PROFESSOR OF MANAGEMENT AT H.E.C.<br />

of g<strong>en</strong>der differ<strong>en</strong>ces into the private<br />

domain embodied by lingerie?<br />

The comparison with heels thus becomes<br />

intriguing: while high-heeled<br />

shoes have be<strong>en</strong> strongly criticized<br />

for locking wom<strong>en</strong> into an oldfashioned<br />

idea of femininity, lingerie<br />

has not faced the same critiques.<br />

Another chall<strong>en</strong>ge for lingerie brands<br />

lies in its ability to reclaim the traditional<br />

rules of seduction and g<strong>en</strong>der,<br />

while promoting an inclusive,<br />

feminist id<strong>en</strong>tity. Brands such as<br />

Aerie, Lonely, or Baserange have<br />

placed some of these concepts at the<br />

heart of their messaging. The same<br />

could be said of MarieYat, who has<br />

highlighted the diversity of feminine<br />

expressions.<br />

Lingerie can be a refuge for a certain<br />

type of conscious nostalgia that<br />

remains free from any real social<br />

consequ<strong>en</strong>ce, because the private<br />

sphere is literally hidd<strong>en</strong> from public<br />

view. Nostalgia is a powerful creative<br />

driver and can paradoxically offer lingerie<br />

a vast, passionate, and fascinating<br />

stylistic universe that has disappeared<br />

elsewhere. To a certain ext<strong>en</strong>t,<br />

this may reflect a form of auth<strong>en</strong>ticity<br />

that, without calling into question<br />

what’s happ<strong>en</strong>ing elsewhere, doesn’t<br />

follow the movem<strong>en</strong>t toward individual<br />

empowerm<strong>en</strong>t against traditional<br />

roles.<br />

What lingerie loses in inspiration due<br />

to its intimacy and distance from the<br />

tumults of fashion, it gains in auth<strong>en</strong>ticity.<br />

It thus forges a path toward<br />

beauty that is all its own, paradoxical,<br />

plush, and passionate.<br />

FRÉDÉRIC GODART .<br />

Lingerie, somewhere<br />

betwe<strong>en</strong> intimacy,<br />

nostalgia & passion.


PHOTO : ESTELLE RANCUREL POUR NICOLAS MÉSSINA


@BAUMANNMONIQUE<br />

“THE CHALLENGE OF THIS IMAGE OF EXPOSED TRULY EXCITED<br />

ME. SINCE I’M MORE ACCUSTOMED TO ASSEMBLING AND PAS-<br />

TING TOGETHER MAINLY FACES, I HAD TO LEARN TO ADD IN THE<br />

CONCEPT OF BODIES AND SHAPES. MAKING ART ALSO MEANS<br />

DEALING WITH LIMITATIONS. ALL OF MY WORK WAS DONE BY<br />

HAND, OVER THE SPACE OF SEVERAL DAYS, WITH MANY POSSIBLE<br />

IDEAS. I PASTED, I ASSEMBLED, I REMOVED, I USED A MULTITUDE<br />

OF TECHNIQUES TO FINALLY COME TO SOME SORT OF BALANCE:<br />

A BEAUTIFUL IMAGE THAT I FEEL GOOD ABOUT AND THAT WILL<br />

CATCH THE ATTENTION OF THE EXPOSED COMMUNITY”<br />

→ MONIQUE BAUMANN WAS BORN IN SWITZERLAND. IMMERSED<br />

IN ART AND FASHION EVER SINCE SHE CAN REMEMBER, SHE PRE-<br />

SENTS HER WORK THROUGH NUMEROUS EXHIBITIONS AND FRE-<br />

QUENTLY WORKS FOR RENOWNED MEDIA OUTLETS (VOGUE…).<br />

BACKSTAGE with<br />

Monique Baumann<br />

13


F/W 19.20 TRENDS<br />

by VANESSA CAUSSE<br />

TREND FORECASTER @ SALON INTERNATIONAL DE LA LINGERIE<br />

The fashion industry has exhausted<br />

itself trying to sell ever more, a race<br />

to profit that has become increasingly<br />

inhumane. We have reached<br />

a key point where the product-based<br />

experi<strong>en</strong>ce no longer suffices. An<br />

awak<strong>en</strong>ing is underway, part of the<br />

overall societal and <strong>en</strong>vironm<strong>en</strong>tal<br />

context; it’s shaking things up and<br />

making us increasingly aware of the<br />

responsibilities attached to shopping.<br />

Buy less, buy better!<br />

This is why we want to know ev<strong>en</strong><br />

more about the manufacturing process:<br />

where, how, in what way?<br />

We are questioning so much about<br />

products themselves that expertise<br />

must be prov<strong>en</strong> in order to make purchases<br />

happ<strong>en</strong>. Winter 2019-2020<br />

promises a desire for creativity and<br />

quality, and the lingerie sector must<br />

prove its expertise in the human and<br />

aesthetic dim<strong>en</strong>sions of its products,<br />

as an industry that exists halfway<br />

betwe<strong>en</strong> fashion and beauty, serving<br />

wom<strong>en</strong>’s needs. Lingerie is a<br />

precious asset for a femininity that<br />

perpetually reinv<strong>en</strong>ts itself to follow<br />

and change with the times, always<br />

committed to wom<strong>en</strong>’s needs.<br />

As we celebrate the c<strong>en</strong>t<strong>en</strong>nial this<br />

year of Petit Bateau underwear, the<br />

Museum of Troyes has rediscovered<br />

its inv<strong>en</strong>tor, Eti<strong>en</strong>ne Valton, telling<br />

us the story of the liberation of the<br />

body, perfectly illustrating a more<br />

op<strong>en</strong> acceptance of our physiques,<br />

leading us to reconnect with fluidity<br />

in lingerie and the blossoming of<br />

curves. Shapes are taking on a gossamer<br />

quality, for greater comfort<br />

and romanticism. This Body Love<br />

movem<strong>en</strong>t is the result of accepting<br />

our curves in a Body Positive spirit.<br />

As a response to #metoo, fashion<br />

is blurring the lines betwe<strong>en</strong> the<br />

sexes, favoring all that is oversized<br />

and androgynous styles, and, in particular,<br />

layered looks. A new type<br />

of feminism is appearing, proclaiming<br />

new definitions of femininity<br />

and seductiv<strong>en</strong>ess. Brands such as<br />

Nümph, Sessün, and School Rag are<br />

designing comfortably loose-fitting<br />

dresses where streetwear influ<strong>en</strong>ces<br />

the look and the way they’re worn.<br />

Lingerie will inevitably be inspired<br />

by this strong streetwear tr<strong>en</strong>d, reinv<strong>en</strong>ting<br />

a seductive allure that is<br />

more casual, easier to wear, and full<br />

of layering.<br />

In addition, design is spreading its<br />

t<strong>en</strong>drils everywhere, inspiring our<br />

interiors and reinv<strong>en</strong>ting the way<br />

we use them. The fiftieth anniversary<br />

of the Le Corbusier Foundation<br />

is inspiring creatives to take up his<br />

remarkable color palette, symbols<br />

of shared experi<strong>en</strong>ce, vitality, and<br />

action. Structured, design-ori<strong>en</strong>ted<br />

lines based on color will be inexhaustible<br />

sources of inspiration to<br />

refresh product ranges and create<br />

pleasure with taste, freshness, and<br />

humor. Details will be all about color<br />

for this Constructivist-influ<strong>en</strong>ced<br />

lingerie.<br />

And finally, in a time wh<strong>en</strong> hybrid<br />

expertise is the word of the day…<br />

in order to reinv<strong>en</strong>t boundaries and<br />

ev<strong>en</strong> erase them, the lingerie industry<br />

is espousing the natural tr<strong>en</strong>d.<br />

This wake-up call and new positioning<br />

seeks a point of equilibrium<br />

betwe<strong>en</strong> body and spirit to meet our<br />

need for harmony as we face crises<br />

in our societies: waste, global warming,<br />

chemical pollution… Floral<br />

and botanical inspirations are a perpetual<br />

source of prints for the world<br />

of lingerie, acting as allies of our<br />

intimate world. Shades of gre<strong>en</strong> will<br />

take c<strong>en</strong>ter stage this winter, reflecting<br />

our desire to align with nature.<br />

14<br />

SALONINTERNATIONALDELALINGERIE.COM


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PARIS, JE T’AIME<br />

ART EXHIBITS<br />

RESTAURANTS<br />

BEAUTY<br />

RETAIL<br />

“ASIA AS DREAMT D’Y.S.L” 4<br />

from 2 oct. 2018 though 27 jan. 2018<br />

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195, AVENUE MARCEAU<br />

16 TH ARR.<br />

MIRÓ 2<br />

from 3 oct. 2018 through 4 feb. 2019<br />

GRAND PALAIS<br />

3, AV. DU GÉNÉRAL EISENHOWER<br />

8 TH ARR.<br />

CONFECTIONERY<br />

PASTRY SHOPS<br />

LE BLÉ SUCRÉ 6<br />

7, RUE ANTOINE VOLLON<br />

1 ST ARR.<br />

ECHIZEN SOBA TOGA 8<br />

33, RUE SAINT-ROCH<br />

1 ST ARR.<br />

MARGUS<br />

1, RUE DES PROUVAIRES<br />

1 ST ARR.<br />

BOOKS<br />

LIBRAIRIE DE LA MODE<br />

52, RUE CROIX DES PETITS-CHAMPS<br />

1 ST ARR.<br />

LIBRAIRIE ICI<br />

25, BOULEVARD POISSONNIÈRE<br />

2 ND ARR.<br />

BARS<br />

NOSE 1<br />

20, RUE BACHAUMONT<br />

2 ND ARR.<br />

ABSOLUTION BOUTIQUE<br />

30, RUE DES VINAIGRIERS<br />

1 ST ARR.<br />

CAFES<br />

MATAMATA COFFEE<br />

58, RUE D’ARGOUT<br />

2 ND ARR.<br />

TÉLESCOPE CAFÉ<br />

5, RUE VILLEDO<br />

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JUICE BARS<br />

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Custom shop corner LE BON MARCHÉ<br />

24, RUE DE SÈVRES<br />

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lingerie drawer.<br />

56, RUE DE PASSY<br />

16 TH ARR.<br />

LINGERIE SHOPS<br />

YASMINE ESLAMI<br />

35, RUE DE RICHELIEU<br />

1 ST ARR.<br />

HENRIETTE H. 5<br />

24, RUE DU CHÂTEAU D’EAU<br />

1 ST ARR.<br />

À L’ÉTOILE D’OR<br />

30, RUE PIERRE FONTAINE<br />

IX e ARR.<br />

NO ENTRY<br />

20 BIS RUE DE DOUAI<br />

9 TH ARR.<br />

NOGLU 3<br />

16, PASSAGE DES PANORAMAS<br />

2 ND ARR.<br />

NAÉLIE<br />

17, RUE DE SAINTONGE<br />

3 RD ARR.<br />

MAISON BOISSIER<br />

BAR MAZE 7<br />

VERTUS, LE BAR À JUS<br />

48, RUE DE PASSY<br />

13 RUE TIQUETONNE<br />

67, RUE RAMBUTEAU<br />

16 TH ARR.<br />

2 ND ARR.<br />

4 TH ARR.


@lingerieswimwearparis_shows<br />

Free <strong>en</strong>trance with “<strong>GLIMPSE</strong>” code<br />

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