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<strong>GLIMPSE</strong><br />
SALON<br />
INTERNATIONAL<br />
DE LA<br />
LINGERIE<br />
PARIS<br />
JE T’AIME<br />
LINGERIE, SOMEWHERE<br />
BETWEEN INTIMACY,<br />
NOSTALGIA & PASSION<br />
F/W 19.20
<strong>GLIMPSE</strong> N°1<br />
EDITO 3 — INTERVIEW with R<strong>en</strong>aud Cambuzat 4-5 — FASHION SERIES Nicolas Méssina 6<br />
— WE LOVE NATURAL FIBERS by Willy Hermann 7 — 10 BRANDS to watch 8-9 —<br />
LINGERIE, BETWEEN INTIMACY, NOSTALGIA & PASSION by Frédéric Godart 10<br />
— FASHION SERIES Nicolas Méssina 11 — BACKSTAGE with Monique Baumann 12-13 —<br />
F/W 19.20 TRENDS by Vanessa Causse 14 — PARIS, JE T’AIME 15<br />
Photo cover : Estelle Rancurel for Nicolas Méssina / Style : Delphine Brossard / Hair : Stephanie Farouze #artistunit / Model : Yulia Musieichuk #supreme / Casting : Olivier Duperrin<br />
All rights reserved © Eurovet. Direction of the publication : Eurovet — Editor-in-chief : Angèle Sitbon, Cécile Vivier Guérin, Daniela Melo — Graphic design : Nicolas Alanquand
<strong>GLIMPSE</strong>, THE NEW MAGAZINE CREATED BY SALON INTERNATIONAL DE LA LINGERIE TO :<br />
EXPRESS our abundant imagination<br />
and desire to take things further. EXPLORE<br />
new areas of expression for lingerie<br />
and swimwear brands. SHOW OFF<br />
the fashion side of an industry that’s<br />
thriving. PROVOKE thought on a world<br />
that’s changing and evolving. INSPIRE<br />
transformations and reinv<strong>en</strong>t what’s<br />
possible. GIVE the floor to designers,<br />
artists, and sociologists who now gravitate<br />
around our field. REPRESENT loud and<br />
clear the expression of our exceptional<br />
expertise. STAY a step ahead, always.<br />
IMMERSE yourself in innovative, highperformance<br />
materials. DISCOVER new,<br />
must-see place in the beloved Paris<br />
that is ours. And finally SHARE with you<br />
our PASSION, for LINGERIE, FASHION<br />
& DESIGN !
→ YOUR VISION OF THE LINGERIE OF<br />
TOMORROW.<br />
Lingerie is an industry undergoing<br />
major shifts, with product offerings<br />
that have considerably expanded<br />
over the last few years. The underlying<br />
tr<strong>en</strong>ds observed in fashion,<br />
reflecting important changes in society,<br />
are now visible in a market<br />
long dominated by persist<strong>en</strong>t stereotypes.<br />
Stimulated by the emerg<strong>en</strong>ce<br />
and success of new brands, oft<strong>en</strong><br />
based online and both agile and responsive,<br />
lingerie is now showing<br />
signs of op<strong>en</strong>ness and a cross-category<br />
approach that seem built to last:<br />
an emphasis on comfort, simplification,<br />
and innovation, the success of<br />
bold styles inspired by streetwear,<br />
sport, or mix-and-match tr<strong>en</strong>ds, the<br />
developm<strong>en</strong>t of multi-product categories<br />
(lifewear, homewear…), new<br />
repres<strong>en</strong>tations of the body and interpretations<br />
of femininity… and more.<br />
This being said, rec<strong>en</strong>t evolutions<br />
cannot make us forget the realities of<br />
an industry that functions on several<br />
levels and is still fragm<strong>en</strong>ted among<br />
sales networks and populations with<br />
differ<strong>en</strong>t shopping habits that are<br />
sometimes hard to reconcile. This is<br />
undoubtedly because we’re dealing<br />
with an intimate product related to<br />
the body and its perception, and, unlike<br />
what we see in fashion, lingerie<br />
reflects shopping tr<strong>en</strong>ds that largely<br />
differ betwe<strong>en</strong> g<strong>en</strong>erations. Perhaps<br />
we will have to wait for another t<strong>en</strong><br />
or fifte<strong>en</strong> years, with a change of g<strong>en</strong>eration,<br />
to see more homog<strong>en</strong>ous<br />
tr<strong>en</strong>ds that align with what is worn<br />
by 15 to 35-year-olds.<br />
In terms of visual codes and patterns<br />
of repres<strong>en</strong>tation, the industry is curr<strong>en</strong>tly<br />
polarized betwe<strong>en</strong> archetypes<br />
that, while they have indeed evolved,<br />
remain quite active and clichéd,<br />
whether it’s sexy empowerm<strong>en</strong>t,<br />
opportunistic Body Positivism, or<br />
pretty chic that everyone loves.<br />
Within this context, we feel that it’s<br />
important to convey a vision that reflects<br />
the complexity of our societies<br />
and the diversity of movem<strong>en</strong>ts and<br />
curr<strong>en</strong>ts within them. Lingerie is a<br />
fascinating product due to the variety<br />
of societal matters it addresses. Its<br />
intimate character touches on differ<strong>en</strong>t<br />
major issues such as the body,<br />
the spirit, the possible relationships<br />
betwe<strong>en</strong> the two, and, more broadly,<br />
womanhood and femininity. These<br />
are deep and demanding subjects<br />
that are always tough for a brand to<br />
deal with in a truly fair manner, but to<br />
which we believe we can bring new,<br />
more op<strong>en</strong> and emotional answers<br />
that are less stereotyped and more<br />
stimulating in their differ<strong>en</strong>t forms.<br />
Adding a s<strong>en</strong>se of meaning seems to<br />
us to be ess<strong>en</strong>tial. This is what we’re<br />
trying to do today through CL and<br />
our various brands.<br />
→ IN TERMS OF YOUR ROLE AS ARTIS-<br />
TIC DIRECTOR, AND THE STRATEGY<br />
YOU’RE PUTTING IN PLACE AS PART OF<br />
THE REVAMP OF CL.<br />
Beyond these firm beliefs and values<br />
that it repres<strong>en</strong>ts, which drive<br />
us forward, CL is the new id<strong>en</strong>tity<br />
of this group. Powerful, innovative,<br />
differ<strong>en</strong>t… this overarching brand<br />
positions itself as a design studio and<br />
now appears on a variety of brand<br />
elem<strong>en</strong>ts via the designation designed<br />
by CL. Under this group name, all the<br />
brands that we’ve repositioned come<br />
together in a complem<strong>en</strong>tary fashion:<br />
Chantelle, Passionata, Chantal Thomass,<br />
and Femilet (a Danish brand<br />
that we’ve started to introduce to<br />
the world). To these wholesale<br />
brands, we’re adding differ<strong>en</strong>t retail<br />
concepts, including CL, which is also<br />
the name of our new international<br />
concept. With this diverse assortm<strong>en</strong>t<br />
of brands, we wanted to take a<br />
cross-category approach that allows<br />
us to develop perfect complem<strong>en</strong>tarity<br />
betwe<strong>en</strong> our brands, but also to<br />
reaffirm each brand’s uniqu<strong>en</strong>ess.<br />
This way, we are now able to pres<strong>en</strong>t,<br />
whether it’s within a CL multibrand<br />
space in a departm<strong>en</strong>t store or with<br />
our indep<strong>en</strong>d<strong>en</strong>t cli<strong>en</strong>ts, a group assortm<strong>en</strong>t<br />
that is complete, cross-category<br />
in nature, unique, inspiring, and<br />
perfectly adapted to each <strong>en</strong>vironm<strong>en</strong>t<br />
dep<strong>en</strong>ding on specific needs.<br />
INTERVIEW<br />
with RENAUD<br />
CAMBUZAT<br />
CHIEF CREATIVE OFFICE @ CL<br />
@CLSTUDIO_ <strong>GLIMPSE</strong> AW/18.19<br />
4
5
9<br />
PHOTO : GEORGE GVASALIA
Willy Hermann<br />
WE LOVE<br />
NATURAL FIBERS<br />
MARTIN HERMANN, CEO @ WILLY HERMANN<br />
→ DO YOU FEEL THAT NATURAL FI-<br />
BERS HAVE SEEN INCREASED DEMAND<br />
IN RECENT TIMES ? DO YOU HAVE NEW<br />
CLIENTS IN THE INTIMATES SECTOR ?<br />
ARE THEY LOOKING FOR MORE SOF-<br />
TNESS OR LIGHTNESS OR LUXURY AND<br />
EXCEPTIONAL NATURAL FABRICS ?<br />
We recognize a stronger demand for<br />
natural fibers. This new demand can<br />
come in many ways but in most cases<br />
features a particular added value to<br />
distinguish the garm<strong>en</strong>t that will include<br />
it. It can be a combination of<br />
(functional) synthetic fibers with natural<br />
fibers (cotton or Micro-Modal)<br />
in a two-sided fabric construction<br />
where natural wearing comfort is<br />
combined for beauty and functionality.<br />
What we also see is a stronger<br />
demand for aspects like wool, silk or<br />
cashmere. Not as 100% garm<strong>en</strong>ts,<br />
but a certain bl<strong>en</strong>d of these luxury fibers<br />
(together with cotton or Modal)<br />
to add softness, wearing comfort<br />
and a distinguished hand to these<br />
garm<strong>en</strong>ts. Wool is also promin<strong>en</strong>t in<br />
sportswear applications. For some<br />
brands, the use of premium natural<br />
fibers is also part of marketing and<br />
upgrading. It also has to be pointed<br />
out that wool or silk have excell<strong>en</strong>t<br />
functional properties and offer a high<br />
degree of wearing comfort.<br />
We also have the impression that<br />
brands are searching for “new fibers”,<br />
so anything that has not yet had a<br />
huge market in our industry but will<br />
offer some point of differ<strong>en</strong>ce. Cupro<br />
fibres or T<strong>en</strong>cel are examples of<br />
this. But here the issue of fiber stability<br />
and dyeability remain uncertain<br />
(at least for circular knitted goods).<br />
Another example could be all aspects<br />
of “sustainability” (organic cotton,<br />
GOTS).<br />
→ WHAT ARE THE MAIN CONCERNS<br />
FOR YOUR CLIENTS ?<br />
One of the main issues in this field is<br />
the topic of material testing and technical<br />
values. Wh<strong>en</strong> working with<br />
wool, silk or cashmere, or bl<strong>en</strong>ds of<br />
fine natural yarns with synthetics in<br />
one fabric, some new rules of the<br />
game shall apply. Natural fabrics of<br />
this kind may not be judged on standard<br />
grounds. Issues like hairiness,<br />
pilling, shrinkage values, or perhaps<br />
other fiber contamination, color<br />
achievem<strong>en</strong>t (for 2 compon<strong>en</strong>t materials)<br />
all need to be addressed and<br />
defined with the customer. Wh<strong>en</strong> <strong>en</strong>tering<br />
new fields of natural fabrics,<br />
the rules of the game also need to be<br />
reassessed. It’s all about nature, and<br />
nature is variable.<br />
→ HOW DO YOU FEEL ABOUT THE LIN-<br />
GERIE MARKET OVER THE SHORT AND<br />
MEDIUM TERMS ? WHAT PLACE WILL<br />
TAKE SUSTAINABLE DEVELOPMENT<br />
HAVE IN YOUR STRATEGY ?<br />
Some 10 years ago, there was already<br />
a phase of strong interest from a<br />
broad customer base in sustainable<br />
natural fabrics, notably organic cotton.<br />
Some projects materialized, but<br />
in the <strong>en</strong>d the whole topic remained<br />
a bit on the sidelines for the overall<br />
lingerie market.<br />
Today, for 2 or 3 seasons now, we’ve<br />
se<strong>en</strong> a resurge of this issue on a broader<br />
base: organic cotton, recycled PA<br />
or PES fibers (as pre- or post-consumer<br />
recycling). The g<strong>en</strong>eral interest<br />
is – once again - strong but it has yet<br />
to be prov<strong>en</strong> whether bigger and longer-lasting<br />
customer programs will<br />
emerge. So, we shall see if the sustainability<br />
topic itself proves to be a<br />
sustainable concept for the market.<br />
One problem that might occur if a<br />
bigger number of important market<br />
participants should launch perman<strong>en</strong>t<br />
programs made from sustainable fibers<br />
could be fiber availability. Will<br />
there be <strong>en</strong>ough supply of such fibers<br />
- and of the right quality? For organic<br />
cotton, the quality varies considerably<br />
from one crop to the next.<br />
For many fabric suppliers “sustainability”<br />
is very much a topic of purchasing<br />
the right yarns. Of course,<br />
we do that too, but we have certainly<br />
evolved beyond that in many ways. In<br />
our dye house, for instance, we have<br />
a strong focus on <strong>en</strong>ergy recycling<br />
(from air and water), on reintroduction<br />
of purified wastewater in the production<br />
process (2nd or 3rd re-use),<br />
and the purification of wastewater in<br />
our own treatm<strong>en</strong>t plant. We run an<br />
<strong>en</strong>vironm<strong>en</strong>tal and <strong>en</strong>ergy managem<strong>en</strong>t<br />
system according to DIN ISO<br />
14001 and 50001. Our knitting plant<br />
is also Oeko-Tex STeP-certified.<br />
7<br />
WILLY-HERMANN.COM
10 BRANDS<br />
to WATCH<br />
MAISON LEJABY 1<br />
MAISON LEJABY SURPRISES US WITH<br />
EACH PASSING COLLECTION. THIS<br />
FRENCH BRAND EXPANDS ITS ICONIC<br />
NUFIT RANGE WITH NEW CONCEPTS.<br />
NUFIT, A CONTRACTION OF NUDITY<br />
& FITNESS, FEATURES A DELICATE<br />
SECOND-SKIN EFFECT WHERE A SEE-<br />
THROUGH LOOK IS COMBINED WITH AN<br />
ULTRA-GRAPHIC TRIPLE STRIPE IN EVERY<br />
SIZE, DUE TO A HIGHLY TECHNICAL<br />
VOILE THAT PROMISES COMFORT AND<br />
SUPPORT, WHILE MAINTAINING THIS<br />
VERY MUCH ON-TREND TRANSPARENT<br />
EFFECT. IT OFFERS AN ELEGANT, GRA-<br />
PHIC SIGNATURE STYLE.<br />
4<br />
CHANTELLE 2<br />
AS PART OF THE “OVERTHROW UN-<br />
DERWEAR” CAMPAIGN, CHANTELLE IS<br />
LAUNCHING A CAPSULE COLLECTION<br />
WITH EMERGING PARISIAN FASHION<br />
BRAND VICTORIA/TOMAS. THIS IS AN<br />
OBVIOUS PAIRING FOR BOTH OF THESE<br />
BRANDS, WHICH SHARE THE SAME<br />
VALUES: A POWERFUL, ELEGANT AES-<br />
THETIC, FOR PIECES THAT ARE EASY TO<br />
WEAR. THE RESULT: THE 12 ITEMS OF<br />
THE ICONIC SOFTSTRETCH RANGE, WITH<br />
A STRONG, ALLURING, SPORTY LOOK.<br />
HOM 3<br />
HOM BECOMES HOM UNDERWEAR<br />
CREATIVE, AND THUS PRESENTS A<br />
NEW BRAND IDENTITY. DEEPER THAN<br />
A SIMPLE CHANGE IN THEIR VISUAL<br />
IDENTITY, THIS BRAND’S STRATEGY IS<br />
EVOLVING TO OFFER MORE ON-TREND,<br />
CREATIVE PIECES. A WHOLE COMMU-<br />
NITY OF DESIGNING MEN WILL CARRY<br />
THE MESSAGE FAR AND WIDE.<br />
1<br />
3<br />
HANRO 4<br />
HANRO, HE TIMELESS LUXURY BRAND,<br />
PROVES YET AGAIN ITS FASHION AND<br />
ON-TREND ROOTS BY OFFERING A<br />
FULL RANGE OF OVERSIZED KNITS. IN<br />
A MINIMALIST MOOD, COMBINED WITH<br />
LUXURIOUS NATURAL MATERIALS, THESE<br />
PIECES ARE PERFECT AS PART OF THE<br />
MAJOR LAYERING TREND!<br />
5<br />
SKARLETT BLUE 5<br />
SKARLETT BLUE IS DESIGNED IN NEW<br />
YORK BY WOMEN. THE TIME HAS COME<br />
TO WEAR LINGERIE THAT’S BOTH SEXY<br />
AND COMFORTABLE. THAT’S WHY THIS<br />
BRAND OFFERS A DIFFERENT EXPE-<br />
RIENCE, WITH UNCOMPROMISING PRO-<br />
DUCTS THAT HAVE IT ALL.<br />
2<br />
@LINGERIESWIMWEARPARIS_SHOWS<br />
8
MARIEYAT 6<br />
THIS IS A LABEL THAT EXPRESSES A NEW<br />
SENSIBILITY FOR A NEW KIND OF WO-<br />
MAN. HER COLLECTIONS ARE INSPIRED<br />
BY THE NO-GENDER MOVEMENT, WITH<br />
A MODERN, COMFORTABLE DESIGN.<br />
THEY FEATURE KNIT AND SEAMLESS<br />
UNDERWEAR MADE FROM COTTON OR<br />
SILK, IN A BOLD AND UNCOMPROMISING<br />
STYLE.<br />
6<br />
LE JOURNAL INTIME 7<br />
THIS IS A BRAND THAT’S SURPRISING<br />
THE MARKETPLACE: A UNIQUE, NATURAL<br />
BODY AESTHETIC, FEATURING RETRO<br />
STYLES COMBINED WITH SPORTY DE-<br />
TAILS. THEIR ESSENCE IS MAINTAINING<br />
A BALANCE BETWEEN LIGHTWEIGHT<br />
TEXTURES AND TRANSPARENT EFFECTS.<br />
THEIR COLLECTIONS ARE MOSTLY OFFE-<br />
RED IN NUDE TONES THAT SUBTLY PAIR<br />
WITH NATURAL, TRANSLUCID TONES OF<br />
POWERNET MESH.<br />
7<br />
NICOLAS MÉSSINA 8<br />
NICOLAS MESSINA ADORNS THE LEGS<br />
OF ELEGANT AND INTRIGUING WOMEN,<br />
OFFERING A FRESH TAKE ON FRENCH<br />
HOSIERY TRADITION, WITH BOLD STYLE.<br />
THIS SEASON, HIS INSPIRATIONS SPRING<br />
FROM FLOWERS AND HERBS THAT<br />
OFFER A MULTITUDE OF BENEFICIAL<br />
PROPERTIES, CREATING A MINIMALISTIC<br />
COLLECTION INFUSED WITH POETIC<br />
GRACE.<br />
8<br />
10<br />
9<br />
JUST A CORPSE 9<br />
THIS LUXURY APPAREL BRAND DRAWS<br />
ITS INSPIRATION FROM THE WORLDS OF<br />
DANCE AND FASHION, WITH THE BODY<br />
AS ITS MAIN FOCUS AND SOURCE OF<br />
CREATIVE DESIGN. FOUNDED BY VALE-<br />
RIJA KELAVA, A SLOVENIAN TOP MODEL,<br />
AND UROŠ BELANTIČ, A DESIGNER OF<br />
BALLET COSTUMES, THIS BRAND IS<br />
MAKING WAVES IN THE LINGERIE INDUS-<br />
TRY WITH ITS POWERFULLY ARTISTIC<br />
SIGNATURE LOOK, A COMMITMENT TO<br />
SUSTAINABILITY, AND A HYBRID PRO-<br />
DUCT THAT IS BOTH TECHNICAL AND<br />
LIFESTYLE-ORIENTED.<br />
LONELY 10<br />
THIS IS A BRAND LIKE NO OTHER! WITH<br />
ITS LACY, DELICATE, GOSSAMER UN-<br />
DERWEAR, THIS NEW ZEALAND-BASED<br />
BRAND “IS INSPIRED BY THE WOMEN<br />
WHO WEAR IT”. LONELY HAS EVEN<br />
CREATED A SORT OF DIARY, THE LONELY<br />
GIRLS PROJECT, WHERE WOMEN POSE,<br />
PHOTOGRAPHED WEARING THEIR LIN-<br />
GERIE. 100% NON-RETOUCHED, THESE<br />
PHOTOS CAPTURE WOMEN AS THEY<br />
ARE, NATURALLY : WITH THEIR UNIQUE<br />
CHARACTERISTICS, THEIR TATTOOS,<br />
THEIR IMPERFECTIONS, THEIR BODY<br />
HAIR, THEIR WRINKLES… A STRONG<br />
COMMITMENT TO FREE EXPRESSION<br />
AND A BODY-POSITIVE SPIRIT.<br />
9<br />
@EXPO_SED_PARIS
10<br />
For a fashion and luxury sociologist<br />
like me, lingerie pres<strong>en</strong>ts fascinating<br />
food for thought.<br />
First of all, lingerie is a paradoxical<br />
fashion item. As a garm<strong>en</strong>t, it should<br />
normally be subject to a rationale<br />
of constant change. And yet, it is<br />
somewhat removed from this logic<br />
due to its intimate dim<strong>en</strong>sion. Indeed,<br />
fashion (in ready-to-wear, for<br />
example) requires a public space to<br />
exist: one must know what others are<br />
wearing in order to emulate them and<br />
to stand out. Lingerie does not offer<br />
this possibility, or not completely. In<br />
its removal from the public eye, it<br />
stands alone and focuses on its own<br />
universe, which is that of intimacy,<br />
oscillating betwe<strong>en</strong> comfort and seductive<br />
allure.<br />
This gives lingerie the chance to exist<br />
over an ext<strong>en</strong>ded period of time and<br />
experi<strong>en</strong>ce more stable rules of the<br />
game than the rest of the apparel industry.<br />
This is an advantage from an<br />
aesthetic point of view, because it allows<br />
for some preservation of a stylistic<br />
heritage, but it can also slow down<br />
the creative and innovative process.<br />
From this standpoint, how can lingerie<br />
brands try to advance their creative<br />
cont<strong>en</strong>t without the full b<strong>en</strong>efit<br />
of fashion’s public exist<strong>en</strong>ce? This is<br />
a marvelous chall<strong>en</strong>ge that has be<strong>en</strong><br />
tak<strong>en</strong> up by certain lingerie brands<br />
that have specifically decided to<br />
bring their aesthetic into public view.<br />
We can think of two very famous<br />
examples of this. First, Aubade, who,<br />
through their r<strong>en</strong>owned “lessons<br />
in seduction” campaign, took their<br />
perception of the rules of seduction<br />
as applied to lingerie into the public<br />
space, connected with their unique<br />
look. It was the same for Victoria’s<br />
Secret, who, through their world-famous<br />
fashion shows (known ev<strong>en</strong> in<br />
countries where their products wer<strong>en</strong>’t<br />
sold!), made public, on a regular<br />
basis, not only what had be<strong>en</strong> private<br />
(their lingerie), but also their evolutions<br />
and aesthetic innovations.<br />
More rec<strong>en</strong>tly, many lingerie brands<br />
have decided to promote creative,<br />
innovative brand positioning. This is<br />
the case, for example, with Maison<br />
Lejaby and its black-and-white campaign<br />
highlighting a natural, on-tr<strong>en</strong>d<br />
aesthetic. The same goes for the<br />
Chantelle group and its namesake<br />
brand, which has adopted a conceptual<br />
point of view on a segm<strong>en</strong>t of<br />
apparel that is traditionally based<br />
mostly on emotion.<br />
In addition, lingerie is a segm<strong>en</strong>t of<br />
fashion that has yet to be affected by<br />
the unisex and androgynous tr<strong>en</strong>d infusing<br />
the rest of the industry. Overall,<br />
the public signals that (visible)<br />
garm<strong>en</strong>ts s<strong>en</strong>d to those around us are<br />
part of a major tr<strong>en</strong>d of increasing<br />
g<strong>en</strong>der fluidity (in the Western world,<br />
in any case). Despite intriguing<br />
attempts (Les Girls Les Boys), this<br />
has not be<strong>en</strong> the case for lingerie in<br />
g<strong>en</strong>eral, which remains highly g<strong>en</strong>der-based<br />
and echoes the codes of<br />
femininity that may seem obsolete<br />
in other domains (in the professional<br />
world, for example). Giv<strong>en</strong> this fact,<br />
we may wonder about the reasons for<br />
this stability: is it a matter of a retreat<br />
FASHION SOCIOLOGIST, PROFESSOR OF MANAGEMENT AT H.E.C.<br />
of g<strong>en</strong>der differ<strong>en</strong>ces into the private<br />
domain embodied by lingerie?<br />
The comparison with heels thus becomes<br />
intriguing: while high-heeled<br />
shoes have be<strong>en</strong> strongly criticized<br />
for locking wom<strong>en</strong> into an oldfashioned<br />
idea of femininity, lingerie<br />
has not faced the same critiques.<br />
Another chall<strong>en</strong>ge for lingerie brands<br />
lies in its ability to reclaim the traditional<br />
rules of seduction and g<strong>en</strong>der,<br />
while promoting an inclusive,<br />
feminist id<strong>en</strong>tity. Brands such as<br />
Aerie, Lonely, or Baserange have<br />
placed some of these concepts at the<br />
heart of their messaging. The same<br />
could be said of MarieYat, who has<br />
highlighted the diversity of feminine<br />
expressions.<br />
Lingerie can be a refuge for a certain<br />
type of conscious nostalgia that<br />
remains free from any real social<br />
consequ<strong>en</strong>ce, because the private<br />
sphere is literally hidd<strong>en</strong> from public<br />
view. Nostalgia is a powerful creative<br />
driver and can paradoxically offer lingerie<br />
a vast, passionate, and fascinating<br />
stylistic universe that has disappeared<br />
elsewhere. To a certain ext<strong>en</strong>t,<br />
this may reflect a form of auth<strong>en</strong>ticity<br />
that, without calling into question<br />
what’s happ<strong>en</strong>ing elsewhere, doesn’t<br />
follow the movem<strong>en</strong>t toward individual<br />
empowerm<strong>en</strong>t against traditional<br />
roles.<br />
What lingerie loses in inspiration due<br />
to its intimacy and distance from the<br />
tumults of fashion, it gains in auth<strong>en</strong>ticity.<br />
It thus forges a path toward<br />
beauty that is all its own, paradoxical,<br />
plush, and passionate.<br />
FRÉDÉRIC GODART .<br />
Lingerie, somewhere<br />
betwe<strong>en</strong> intimacy,<br />
nostalgia & passion.
PHOTO : ESTELLE RANCUREL POUR NICOLAS MÉSSINA
@BAUMANNMONIQUE<br />
“THE CHALLENGE OF THIS IMAGE OF EXPOSED TRULY EXCITED<br />
ME. SINCE I’M MORE ACCUSTOMED TO ASSEMBLING AND PAS-<br />
TING TOGETHER MAINLY FACES, I HAD TO LEARN TO ADD IN THE<br />
CONCEPT OF BODIES AND SHAPES. MAKING ART ALSO MEANS<br />
DEALING WITH LIMITATIONS. ALL OF MY WORK WAS DONE BY<br />
HAND, OVER THE SPACE OF SEVERAL DAYS, WITH MANY POSSIBLE<br />
IDEAS. I PASTED, I ASSEMBLED, I REMOVED, I USED A MULTITUDE<br />
OF TECHNIQUES TO FINALLY COME TO SOME SORT OF BALANCE:<br />
A BEAUTIFUL IMAGE THAT I FEEL GOOD ABOUT AND THAT WILL<br />
CATCH THE ATTENTION OF THE EXPOSED COMMUNITY”<br />
→ MONIQUE BAUMANN WAS BORN IN SWITZERLAND. IMMERSED<br />
IN ART AND FASHION EVER SINCE SHE CAN REMEMBER, SHE PRE-<br />
SENTS HER WORK THROUGH NUMEROUS EXHIBITIONS AND FRE-<br />
QUENTLY WORKS FOR RENOWNED MEDIA OUTLETS (VOGUE…).<br />
BACKSTAGE with<br />
Monique Baumann<br />
13
F/W 19.20 TRENDS<br />
by VANESSA CAUSSE<br />
TREND FORECASTER @ SALON INTERNATIONAL DE LA LINGERIE<br />
The fashion industry has exhausted<br />
itself trying to sell ever more, a race<br />
to profit that has become increasingly<br />
inhumane. We have reached<br />
a key point where the product-based<br />
experi<strong>en</strong>ce no longer suffices. An<br />
awak<strong>en</strong>ing is underway, part of the<br />
overall societal and <strong>en</strong>vironm<strong>en</strong>tal<br />
context; it’s shaking things up and<br />
making us increasingly aware of the<br />
responsibilities attached to shopping.<br />
Buy less, buy better!<br />
This is why we want to know ev<strong>en</strong><br />
more about the manufacturing process:<br />
where, how, in what way?<br />
We are questioning so much about<br />
products themselves that expertise<br />
must be prov<strong>en</strong> in order to make purchases<br />
happ<strong>en</strong>. Winter 2019-2020<br />
promises a desire for creativity and<br />
quality, and the lingerie sector must<br />
prove its expertise in the human and<br />
aesthetic dim<strong>en</strong>sions of its products,<br />
as an industry that exists halfway<br />
betwe<strong>en</strong> fashion and beauty, serving<br />
wom<strong>en</strong>’s needs. Lingerie is a<br />
precious asset for a femininity that<br />
perpetually reinv<strong>en</strong>ts itself to follow<br />
and change with the times, always<br />
committed to wom<strong>en</strong>’s needs.<br />
As we celebrate the c<strong>en</strong>t<strong>en</strong>nial this<br />
year of Petit Bateau underwear, the<br />
Museum of Troyes has rediscovered<br />
its inv<strong>en</strong>tor, Eti<strong>en</strong>ne Valton, telling<br />
us the story of the liberation of the<br />
body, perfectly illustrating a more<br />
op<strong>en</strong> acceptance of our physiques,<br />
leading us to reconnect with fluidity<br />
in lingerie and the blossoming of<br />
curves. Shapes are taking on a gossamer<br />
quality, for greater comfort<br />
and romanticism. This Body Love<br />
movem<strong>en</strong>t is the result of accepting<br />
our curves in a Body Positive spirit.<br />
As a response to #metoo, fashion<br />
is blurring the lines betwe<strong>en</strong> the<br />
sexes, favoring all that is oversized<br />
and androgynous styles, and, in particular,<br />
layered looks. A new type<br />
of feminism is appearing, proclaiming<br />
new definitions of femininity<br />
and seductiv<strong>en</strong>ess. Brands such as<br />
Nümph, Sessün, and School Rag are<br />
designing comfortably loose-fitting<br />
dresses where streetwear influ<strong>en</strong>ces<br />
the look and the way they’re worn.<br />
Lingerie will inevitably be inspired<br />
by this strong streetwear tr<strong>en</strong>d, reinv<strong>en</strong>ting<br />
a seductive allure that is<br />
more casual, easier to wear, and full<br />
of layering.<br />
In addition, design is spreading its<br />
t<strong>en</strong>drils everywhere, inspiring our<br />
interiors and reinv<strong>en</strong>ting the way<br />
we use them. The fiftieth anniversary<br />
of the Le Corbusier Foundation<br />
is inspiring creatives to take up his<br />
remarkable color palette, symbols<br />
of shared experi<strong>en</strong>ce, vitality, and<br />
action. Structured, design-ori<strong>en</strong>ted<br />
lines based on color will be inexhaustible<br />
sources of inspiration to<br />
refresh product ranges and create<br />
pleasure with taste, freshness, and<br />
humor. Details will be all about color<br />
for this Constructivist-influ<strong>en</strong>ced<br />
lingerie.<br />
And finally, in a time wh<strong>en</strong> hybrid<br />
expertise is the word of the day…<br />
in order to reinv<strong>en</strong>t boundaries and<br />
ev<strong>en</strong> erase them, the lingerie industry<br />
is espousing the natural tr<strong>en</strong>d.<br />
This wake-up call and new positioning<br />
seeks a point of equilibrium<br />
betwe<strong>en</strong> body and spirit to meet our<br />
need for harmony as we face crises<br />
in our societies: waste, global warming,<br />
chemical pollution… Floral<br />
and botanical inspirations are a perpetual<br />
source of prints for the world<br />
of lingerie, acting as allies of our<br />
intimate world. Shades of gre<strong>en</strong> will<br />
take c<strong>en</strong>ter stage this winter, reflecting<br />
our desire to align with nature.<br />
14<br />
SALONINTERNATIONALDELALINGERIE.COM
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ART EXHIBITS<br />
RESTAURANTS<br />
BEAUTY<br />
RETAIL<br />
“ASIA AS DREAMT D’Y.S.L” 4<br />
from 2 oct. 2018 though 27 jan. 2018<br />
MUSÉE YVES SAINT-LAURENT<br />
195, AVENUE MARCEAU<br />
16 TH ARR.<br />
MIRÓ 2<br />
from 3 oct. 2018 through 4 feb. 2019<br />
GRAND PALAIS<br />
3, AV. DU GÉNÉRAL EISENHOWER<br />
8 TH ARR.<br />
CONFECTIONERY<br />
PASTRY SHOPS<br />
LE BLÉ SUCRÉ 6<br />
7, RUE ANTOINE VOLLON<br />
1 ST ARR.<br />
ECHIZEN SOBA TOGA 8<br />
33, RUE SAINT-ROCH<br />
1 ST ARR.<br />
MARGUS<br />
1, RUE DES PROUVAIRES<br />
1 ST ARR.<br />
BOOKS<br />
LIBRAIRIE DE LA MODE<br />
52, RUE CROIX DES PETITS-CHAMPS<br />
1 ST ARR.<br />
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25, BOULEVARD POISSONNIÈRE<br />
2 ND ARR.<br />
BARS<br />
NOSE 1<br />
20, RUE BACHAUMONT<br />
2 ND ARR.<br />
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30, RUE DES VINAIGRIERS<br />
1 ST ARR.<br />
CAFES<br />
MATAMATA COFFEE<br />
58, RUE D’ARGOUT<br />
2 ND ARR.<br />
TÉLESCOPE CAFÉ<br />
5, RUE VILLEDO<br />
1 ST ARR.<br />
JUICE BARS<br />
PHILIPPINE JANSSEN<br />
Custom shop corner LE BON MARCHÉ<br />
24, RUE DE SÈVRES<br />
7 TH ARR.<br />
DYPTIQUE<br />
Sc<strong>en</strong>ted sheets to place in your<br />
lingerie drawer.<br />
56, RUE DE PASSY<br />
16 TH ARR.<br />
LINGERIE SHOPS<br />
YASMINE ESLAMI<br />
35, RUE DE RICHELIEU<br />
1 ST ARR.<br />
HENRIETTE H. 5<br />
24, RUE DU CHÂTEAU D’EAU<br />
1 ST ARR.<br />
À L’ÉTOILE D’OR<br />
30, RUE PIERRE FONTAINE<br />
IX e ARR.<br />
NO ENTRY<br />
20 BIS RUE DE DOUAI<br />
9 TH ARR.<br />
NOGLU 3<br />
16, PASSAGE DES PANORAMAS<br />
2 ND ARR.<br />
NAÉLIE<br />
17, RUE DE SAINTONGE<br />
3 RD ARR.<br />
MAISON BOISSIER<br />
BAR MAZE 7<br />
VERTUS, LE BAR À JUS<br />
48, RUE DE PASSY<br />
13 RUE TIQUETONNE<br />
67, RUE RAMBUTEAU<br />
16 TH ARR.<br />
2 ND ARR.<br />
4 TH ARR.
@lingerieswimwearparis_shows<br />
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