Times of the Islands Winter 2018/19

TIMES 

OF THE 

SAMPLING THE SOUL OF THE TURKS & CAICOS ISLANDS WINTER 2018/19 NO. 125 

SAILING TO FREEDOM 

Sloops Aid Slave Escapes 

THE LAST STAND? 

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contents 

Departments 

6 From the Editor 

13 Eye on the Sky 

From Fluffy Cotton to Terrifying Towers: 

Low Cloud Formation 

By Paul Wilkerson 

18 Around the Islands 

Kids First! 

Edward C. Gartland Youth Centre 

By Katherine Withers Green 

50 The Sporting Life 

Fit at Fifty 

By John Galleymore 

Photos By Brilliant Studios 

72 Food for Thought 

The Secret Garden 

The Frenz Deck 

By Dominique Rolle–Caya Hico Media 

76 About the Islands/TCI Map 

81 Where to Stay 

82 Classified Ads 

84 Dining Out 

86 Subscription Form 

Features 

22 Magnificent Mauby 

TCI’s National Tonic 

Story & Photos By B Naqqi Manco 

38 Sailing to Freedom 

TCI Slave Escapes in the 1800s 

By Ben Stubenberg 

TIMES 

OF THE 

ISLANDS 

SAMPLING THE SOUL OF THE TURKS & CAICOS ISLANDS WINTER 2018/19 NO. 125 

On the Cover 

Photographer Marta Morton spends a lot of time looking 

up and out, when she’s not busy running Harbour 

Club Villas (www.HarbourClubVillas.com) with her 

husband Barry and son Michael. More often than not, 

she takes the occasion to pull out her small Canon 

SX720HS “point and shoot” camera (with a great 40X 

optical zoom) and photograph the beauty she sees 

around her. In this case, it was a lovely early Winter 

sunset over Grace Bay Beach, with the high cirrus 

clouds tracing a feathery pattern in the sky. For more 

of her exceptional photography, turn the pages of this 

issue. 

Green Pages 

28 Hope for TCI’s Future 

East Caicos Reefs 

By Kathleen Wood, Don Stark and 

Marsha Pardee 

33 Ban the Bag 

By Amy Avenant 

34 Battle of the Reefs 

By John DeBuysser and Heidi Hertler 

72 

Astrolabe 

60 Morning in the Garden of Good and Evil 

Story & Photos By Matthew A. Williamson 

65 A Glimpse of the Past 

By Jeffrey Dodge 

DOMINIQUE ROLLE—CAYA HICO MEDIA 

4 www.timespub.tc

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from the editor 

MARTA MORTON—WWW.HARBOURCLUBVILLAS.COM 

This landscape overlooking South Side Marina on Providenciales shows how sunlight paints a picture in the sky at the end of the day. 

Let There Be Light 

This year, the Islands went back to observing Daylight Savings Time, after a two-year hiatus meant to extend 

the early evening sunlight for visitors and residents. With the time change, comes my annual hibernation to an early 

bedtime as the darkness sets in, unwelcome because I am a certified lover of light, especially sunlight. Thankfully, 

the late fall/winter season brings an astonishing quality to the light in the Turks & Caicos Islands—so achingly beautiful 

at times that it seems a preview of heaven. Mornings begin with a rose-pink glow in the east that blooms into 

a shimmering, clear brilliance lasting well into mid-day. As afternoon sets in, the scene begins to melt into a tawny 

golden glow from which it is nearly impossible to look away. 

I hope you’ll find in this issue plenty of illumination for your mind, body and soul in the eclectic mix of stories 

and photos, ranging from a discussion of clouds, to the importance of the East Caicos reefs, to a fascinating study 

of slave escapes and the Caicos Sloop, to a new dining experience for foodies. 

Christmas is, for me, a time of great joy as we celebrate the True Light—Jesus Christ—entering our world to 

bring the love, grace and salvation we all so desperately need. To God be the Glory for His daily help, strength and 

comfort. 

Kathy Borsuk, Editor 

timespub@tciway.tc • (649) 946-4788 

6 www.timespub.tc

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PG advert_Layout 1 5/10/17 9:10 AM Page 1 

TIMES 

MANAGING EDITOR 

Kathy Borsuk 

OF THE 

ISLANDS 

ADVERTISING MANAGER 

Claire Parrish 

“Escape to the extraordinary.” 

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS 

Amy Avenant, Kathy Borsuk, John DeBuysser, 

Jeffrey Dodge, John Galleymore, Katherine Withers Green, 

Heidi Hertler, B Naqqi Manco, Marsha Pardee, 

Dr. Michael P. Pateman, Dominique Rolle–Caya Hico Media, 

Don Stark, Ben Stubenberg, Paul Wilkerson, 

Candianne Williams, Matthew A. Williamson, 

Kathleen Wood. 

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS 

Brilliant Studios, Robert Ormond Challis, E. Neale Coverley– 

TCNM Collection, John DeBuysser, Edward C. Gartland 

Youth Centre, Richard Green, Heidi Hertler, Agile LeVin, 

B Naqqi Manco, Marta Morton, Michael Morton, 

Dr. Michael P. Pateman, Tom Rathgeb, Dominique Rolle– 

Caya Hico Media, Matthew Slattery, David M. Stone, 

Ben Stubenberg, Paul Wilkerson, Candianne Williams, 

Matthew A. Williamson. 

CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS 

NOAA, RA Shaw Designs, Wavey Line Publishing 

PRINTING 

southeastern, Hialeah, FL 

Times of the Islands ISSN 1017-6853 is 

published quarterly by Times Publications Ltd. 

Copyright © 2019 by Times Publications Ltd. All rights reserved 

under Universal and Pan American Copyright Conventions. 

No part of this publication may be 

reproduced without written permission. 

Subscriptions $28/year; $32/year for 

non-U.S. mailing addresses 

Submissions We welcome submission of articles or photography, but 

assume no responsibility for care and return of unsolicited material. 

Return postage must accompany material if it is to be returned. In no 

event shall any writer or photographer subject this magazine to any 

claim for holding fees or damage charges on unsolicited material. 

While every care has been taken in the compilation and reproduction of 

information contained herein to ensure correctness, such information is 

subject to change without notice. The publisher accepts no 

responsibility for such alterations or for typographical or other errors. 

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Advertising 649 431 7527 

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12 www.timespub.tc

eye on the sky 

PAUL WILKERSON 

These low clouds seem to be tracing the path of the causeway between North and Middle Caicos. 

Clouds are both loved and hated. For travelers to the Turks & Caicos Islands, it generally invokes worry 

over the prospects of rain and lack of sun-bathing time. For Belongers, it usually is a much different story. 

Clouds are welcomed for the shade they bring on a sweltering day, the beauty they offer when contrasted 

against the electric-blue waters surrounding the Islands, and the promise of rain that is such a lifeline to 

residents of these small islands. Without these whimsical wisps of moisture, the Islands would be uninhabitable—a 

dry and arid environment with little in the way of ground cover. It would be a challenge of 

survival for the toughest of land species. 

From Fluffy Cotton 

to Terrifying Towers 

How are low clouds formed? 

By Paul Wilkerson 

Times of the Islands Winter 2018/19 13


Above: These cloud images were shot overlooking Flamingo Lake in Providenciales. 

Below: This image of an Arcus shelf cloud was captured from the deck at Harbour Club Villas. Note the characteristic rising cloud motion in 

the leading part, while the underside appears turbulent. 

But how do these clouds form, and why do they tend 

to form over some of the same areas day after day across 

the Islands? To understand how this happens, we need 

to first understand the “whats” (atmosphere and geography 

requirements) before we get into the “hows” (actual 

formation of clouds), and the “when” (likely times to see 

these clouds form). 

Let’s take a look at the “whats” first. The Turks & 

Caicos Islands are completely surrounded by the Atlantic 

Ocean. In general, high pressure exists over areas that are 

cooler (water) than adjacent areas (land). Low pressure 

generally exists over the warmest areas (land) surrounded 

by cooler areas (water). For the TCI, the waters in general 

are cooler than the land mass during the day, while at 

night the water generally is a bit warmer than the land. 

So during the day, low pressure typically exists over the 

Islands (rising air), and at night, high pressure is usually 

situated over the Islands (sinking air). This scenario plays 

out during calmer weather periods. 

It is also important to understand that winds will gen- 

MICHAEL MORTON—WWW.HARBOURCLUBVILLAS.COM 

14 www.timespub.tc

This image explains the concepts of sea breeze and cloud formation. 

erally blow from high pressure towards lower pressure, 

which during the day is from the ocean to the land. At 

night, we normally see the reverse situation—winds blowing 

from land out to sea. 

One final factor that will play into cloud formation 

has to do with the amount of moisture in the air. And 

we know based on geographic location that there is an 

abundance of moisture in the atmosphere generally at all 

times over the Islands. 

Now let’s discuss the “hows” of cloud formation. 

Clouds are a conglomeration of trillions and trillions of 

molecules of water vapor. Generally unseen to the naked 

eye, yet felt on the skin as humidity, water vapor once 

compacted into large areas reveals itself as clouds. 

How is it we see these clouds? In the Caribbean, we 

can thank the salt in the ocean for this! In order to see 

clouds, we depend on what is called Cloud Condensation 

Nuclei, abbreviated as CCN. These are particles of dust, 

salt, pollution, and even sand from the Saharan Desert. 

Water vapor by nature, will need something to condense 

to in order for us to see it visibly. These CCN stick to 

water vapor, which is the single most important item we 

need for cloud formation. For the Islands, salt water evaporates 

off the surface of the ocean and rises into the air 

as the CCN needed. However in order to see these as 

clouds we need something else to occur. 

During the day, as the land heats up and low pressure 

develops over the land, the warm air rises in convective 

currents off the hot ground into the air above the Islands. 

As the winds blow off the water and arrive on land, they 

get naturally deflected up as they encounter topography 

and the much warmer air that is also rising. As this wind 

and air rises, it naturally begins to cool once again. And 

as that air cools, it also condenses. Those trillions of 

molecules of water vapor become visible as tiny water 

droplets. And in mass, they are visible as the fluffy white 

clouds we see across the Islands. 

If you would like to see this in action on a smaller 

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In the TCI, our fair weather clouds will form like clockwork, usually during the morning and throughout the primary heating of the day. 

steam snakes off the surface of that water into the air 

above the pot. That water is evaporating into the cooler 

air of your home and then condensing into visible streaks HarbourPaul Club:Layout Wilkerson 1 is 8/17/16 an American 10:16meteorologist AM Page 1 and tourist 

who frequents the Turks & Caicos Islands. Along of steam . . . small clouds! 

with 

To wrap up the concept, we need to talk about the 

“when.” Have you noticed that, in general, at night in the 

Islands it clears up the later it gets? If the Islands are dominated 

by fair weather overall, this will happen nearly on a 

nightly basis. At night the land cools more than the water. 

Because of this, air sinks over the Islands and inhibits 

cloud formation in general. Our fair weather clouds will 

form like clockwork, usually during the morning and 

throughout the primary heating of the day. This cycle will 

continue daily until there is significant high pressure over 

the Islands that can suppress this process through the 

process of sinking air. Or, if there is significant low pressure 

close to the Islands these beautiful balls of cotton 

can turn into towering menaces that produce lightning 

and thunder through the process of significant rising air. 

Clouds are one of the most fascinating wonders on 

earth. Next time you are on-island, you likely will catch a 

mesmerizing reflection of the ocean on the bottom of the 

clouds. In those moments, reflect on the amazing world 

16 www.timespub.tc 

we live in and how Mother Nature takes care of the people 

that depend on her. a 

his wife and two daughters, the Wilkersons stay actively 

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around the islands 

These photo collages show the huge variety of activities that TCI children and teens participate in at the Edward C. Gartland Youth Centre. 

Kids First! 

Edward C. Gartland Youth Centre celebrates a decade of caring about kids. 

By Katherine Withers Green ~ Photos Courtesy Edward C. Gartland Youth Centre 

In November 2008, the Edward C. Gartland Youth Centre opened its doors to the young people of the 

Turks & Caicos, becoming the first teen-orientated facility in the Islands. The brainchild of the AIDS 

Awareness Foundation, this intrepid project started as a safe haven, a spot to engage our youth with afterschool 

activities and community outreach projects, and a way to get kids moving, thinking and caring. 

Times of the Islands Winter 2018/19 19

I remember as a child growing up in the TCI how 

important education and information became in the fight 

against HIV. On paper the Edward C. Gartland Youth 

Centre (ECGYC) ticked all the right boxes—stamping 

out stigma and misinformation, creating a secure place 

for young people to participate in, learn about and create 

safe relationships with their peers—but the reality 

became so much more than this. Now celebrating its 

tenth successful year, the ECGYC has become one of the 

most essential parts of the TCI community, and an indispensable 

resource for the young people of our Islands. 

What began with after-school tutoring, arts and 

crafts and beach clean-up days has grown to encompass 

15 different term-time programs, as well as more than 

20 summer camps ranging from music to maths clubs, 

cultural dance, water-based eco-camps, self-defense and 

their extremely successful basketball camp—to name but 

a few! The Centre is a roaring community success story. 

The amazing team behind its creation and the hard-working 

people who continue to bring incredible opportunities 

to our children are truly the heroes of today, supporting 

the fact that TCI’s most important resource is our youth. 

In celebration of a decade’s worth of love and effort, 

I asked the Edward C. Gartland Youth Centre staff, led by 

Director Roxann Wake-Forbes, what stories they’d most 

like to highlight so that readers could learn more about 

their work. Unsurprisingly, they gave us the names of a 

couple of kids—now all grown-up —who attended ECGYC 

Food for Thought is a new charity set up to provide 

daily breakfast to government school students – 

starting with the primary schools in North Caicos, 

Middle Caicos, South Caicos and Salt Cay. 

We estimate that just $200 will allow us to provide 

breakfast to one child for a whole school year. 

If you would like to donate or learn more please 

email foodforthoughttci@gmail.com 

or visit our website foodforthoughttci.com 

and have flourished into awesome community members. 

Sometimes it’s easy to forget that when you attend 

a fundraiser, watch a school dance recital or donate 

to a silent auction, on the other side of that gesture is 

a child who will perhaps get that much closer to their 

dream. From passing an important exam at school, to 

being sponsored to be part of a national sports team, to 

being given the courage, skills and ability to start their 

own business, at the end of the day the true value of the 

Edward C. Gartland Youth Centre lies in the successes of 

its kids. Our kids. The next generation of TC Islanders 

forging their way in the world. 

Wellington Williams 

Most everyone knows Wellington, his cheery smile and 

creative talents are legendary, as almost everywhere you 

go you’ll catch a glimpse of his handmade jewelry. It’s 

delicate, pretty and absolutely authentically local! 

Wellington started attending the Youth Centre from 

age 12, and he says, “My experience there was everything 

to me. I think my favourite thing about the Centre was 

that they always focused on being the best you that you 

can be! They encouraged me to just try as many of the 

programs they offered as I could, to expand my knowledge, 

open up different paths and career opportunities. 

This ‘just try’ attitude still helps me today in my business. 

I have the confidence to take chances, try out new ideas 

and get that positive outcome.” 

Wellington now runs his own company, The 

Wellington Collection, and recently opened his first store 

at The Saltmills selling his beautifully designed jewelry 

using local sand, conch and even recycled beer bottle 

glass. He’s an inspiration to the younger generation, 

showing what can be achieved with hard work and the 

care of the community. And he’s always giving back—his 

latest project is friendship bracelets that support local 

charities, from the Turks and Caicos AIDS Foundation to 

the Provo Children’s Home and of course there’s one just 

for the Youth Centre too! 

William Elliot 

First off when I contacted Will-O (as he likes to be called) 

about this article he responded with a very enthusiastic, 

“You know I’d do anything for the Centre!” which speaks 

volumes for how much this place means to the kids who 

attend. He explained to me that what he loved most was 

the chance to truly be himself. That it gave him a place 

to express his creativity and meet new friends—many of 

whom are still a big part of his life today. Will was just 

20 www.timespub.tc

13 years old when he started attending ECGYC, using his 

time there to study hard and participate in the Basketball 

Camps—and now he’s studying in Manchester, England 

for his Business Management Bachelor’s Degree and playing 

for his university’s basketball team. 

These stories highlight how essential the Edward 

C. Gartland Youth Centre is to our Islands. When youth 

become engaged in community activities they become 

empowered, they realise their voices and opinions are 

being considered, they feel a part of the bigger picture, 

and all of a sudden our community becomes a place 

where both youth and adults share the common interest 

of making their shared space a better place. 

It’s clear the ECGYC has helped dozens of kids 

develop the skills to be effective leaders, given them a 

sense of belonging and purpose, and created meaningful 

positive relationships with adults outside of their families. 

This shows youth that they are cared for not just 

individually but as a whole, as a part of what makes the 

TCI what it is. 

With only three full-time and one part-time member 

of staff, the centre relies on volunteers to help deliver 

programs and, as a nonprofit organization, hosts several 

fundraisers through the year to keep its doors open. The 

annual Art Show in January at The Shore Club, the Wine 

Cellar Golf & Fishing Tournament and the Beach Bonfire 

and BBQ at Bay Bistro are just some of the ways they can 

achieve this, along with donations from private donors 

like you. 

You cannot put a price on the benefits of a centre like 

the one we are lucky enough to have here. There are a few 

community leaders who have shown unwavering support 

from the ECGYC’s creation to today, including founder 

Galmo “Gilley” Williams and chairman Terry Drummey 

from Hemingway’s. Both have been there every step of 

the way, committing their time, money and hearts to this 

wonderful cause. But everyone who attends an event, volunteers 

time or makes a donation is part of what makes 

it all work. 

What the future holds for the ECGYC depends on 

our community giving back. Their goals? Similar youth 

centres on the TCI’s other islands. All it takes is a quick 

glance at the smiling faces of all the kids whose lives 

the EGYC has touched and changed to imagine the possibilities 

if they could expand their reach all over Turks 

& Caicos. We can’t wait to see what the next ten years 

brings! a 

Please help to provide FREE spay & neuter to the animals of TCI 

For more information, visit www.ecgyouthcentre.com. 

Free Spay Neuter Program 


feature 

Opposite page: Simple leaves, reddish petioles and tiny waxy yellow flowers make smooth snakebark Colubrina elliptica a subtly attractive 

tree. It is a useful landscaping tree, remaining small and clean. 

Above: Holding court from his home in Lorimers, Middle Caicos, Alton Higgs is a renowned local bush doctor and herbalist. 

Magnificent Mauby 

The unofficial national tonic of the Turks & Caicos Islands. 

“Bush doctor,” I corrected my students, “not witch doctor. He makes herbal medications, he doesn’t fly 

around on a broom.” We approached the low, flat house, so shrouded in a tangle of fruit trees and wildly 

scrambling ornamental vines that it looked as though it was being coaxed down for a nap in the undergrowth. 

Hanging baskets and shelves swinging from tree branches filled gaps in the foliage, as did a hefty 

growth of flowering plants on the ground. 

Story & Photos By B Naqqi Manco, TCI Naturalist 


A number of roughly-painted 

signs in loopy cursive festooned the 

yard’s front fence, made from a bluegreen 

net: “Roaming goats and cows 

are a nuisance and forbidden by law to 

enter this yard. You hear!” and “Speed 

limit 20 MPH. You hear!”. “Hurricane 

Relief Unfair” stated one, while two 

more bore appeals to re-open old 

field-roads to important cultural sites 

and to give island-born children a status 

to grow the nation had decidedly 

more public-sector-aimed themes. 

But the most important sign was 

the two-foot-round circle of polystyrene 

painted with a sketch of a house 

and in burgundy letters: “He is here.” 

(The other side, which could be seen 

when the sign was swung around and 

fastened with wire, stated “He is not 

here”.) 

Indeed, there he was, slung low 

in his homemade seafoam green 

hammock, a hand dangling so the 

knuckles grazed the carpet of dead 

leaves beneath, looking every bit as 

enshrouded in greenery as his house: 

Mr. Alton Higgs, the bush doctor and 

herbalist of Lorimers, Middle Caicos. 

My two British students, studying 

conservation science, had a challenging 

time with the sort-of language 

barrier—they were new to the Caicos 

Islands’ accent and lexicon. As Mr. 

Alton stood from his hammock to 

greet us, he invited us into his home 

as he always did, to “Have a drink of 

the God Bless!” I saw my students 

mouth the words in silent curiosity. I 

knew what was coming. 

As we entered his living room, the 

walls smattered with family photos, 

religious iconography and awards of 

recognition for personal and cultural 

achievements, along with handmade 

basketry and strings of sea beans, 

and the floor padded by brightly 

coloured hand-braided flotsam rope 

rugs, Mr. Alton disappeared into the 

From top: This sign is the Middle Caicos equivalent of “The Doctor is In.” 

Alton Higgs’s pharmacopoeia includes mauby drink (in the juice jug at left) and mauby pills 

(in the glass bottle at center). 

kitchen and came back with a sweating pitcher and several large mismatched 

plastic cups. I managed to take the smallest cup . . . I was experienced at this. 

As the chilled liquid plunged from the pitcher into each cup, slightly 

frothy and red-amber with just a hint of cloudiness, I could see my students 

were uncertain. I took the lead and tossed back a hefty gulp of the drink. Its 

intense bitterness shocked my tongue and made the inside of my check feel 

24 www.timespub.tc

Island Organics_Layout 1 8/26/18 9:52 AM Page 1 

rough. I gulped it and gasped, knowing that the aftertaste 

about to form was far more pleasant than the initial gush 

of acridity. My students had a visibly more challenging 

experience, but they seemed to know that this was some 

sort of a test. I’m not sure whether they figured they were 

being tested by Mr. Alton or me, but they sallied forth 

with strained gulps and a series of blinks and smacking 

of tongues. In a ritual repeated several times over by my 

students throughout the years, they had just had their 

first taste of the unofficial national tonic of the Turks & 

Caicos Islands, mauby. 

This unofficial national tonic is something of a 

regional specialty. Throughout the Caribbean Basin, from 

Florida through the Islands, Central America into northern 

South America, mauby is a cultural phenomenon. 

Mauby beverage (in Spanish maví, pronounced similarly) 

is made from one of two plants, more often the smooth 

snakebark tree Colubrina elliptica. This small, attractive 

tree in the buckthorn family grows throughout the New 

World tropics in lowland forests and tolerates a wide 

range of soil types and rainfall levels. Its close coastal 

relative Colubrina arborescens, in Turks & Caicos often 

called bastard-mauby or soap bush due to its historic use 

as a natural washing-up detergent, can also be used to 

make mauby. 

In many parts of its range, mauby is prepared by 

boiling the bark of these trees and adding sugar, spices 

and other herbs and allowing the brew to ferment. This 

was likely the origin of the drink—as a substitute for 

potato beer when a blight killed Caribbean potato crops 

in colonial times. While some ferment the brew strongly, 

in Turks & Caicos it isn’t traditionally fully fermented. 

Nowadays, it’s even made into a soda pop. In Trinidad 

and Tobago and the Dominican Republic, it appears as 

popular carbonated beverages, and has been compared 

to root beer. In Barbados, Mount Gay produces a mauby-flavoured 

rum. 

Although its past purpose was likely inebriation, it 

has other purported benefits today. In Turks & Caicos, it 

is said to give strength and “clean the blood.” In Barbados, 

it is used as a cooling drink and to treat arthritis, hypertension, 

high cholesterol, diarrhoea and diabetes. In the 

Dominican Republic, it is sold in rum bottles full of wood, 

bark and leaves as the intoxicating Mamajuana, used to 

cure all sorts of ailments. 

Along with those benefits, it is also touted as a 

severely effective tonic for the increase of stamina, and 

as a decidedly powerful aphrodisiac. Its reputation for 

stamina extends into the survival of stress related to 

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From top: While most mauby collectors cut the main trunk of a tree 

and strip all of its bark, old bark naturally peels off and can be collected 

without harming the tree. Only the bark and wood are used 

medicinally in TCI, but bush doctors in other areas use the fruit capsules 

and shiny seeds to enhance the brew. Plant health officials in 

Trinidad inspect a large consignment of mauby bark destined to be 

turned into a popular beverage. The shipment originated in Haiti, 

which, with the Dominican Republic, is the leading exporter of mauby 

bark. 

meeting the constant challenges in serving terms as an 

elected official—at least one former Chief Minister (the 

position now called Premier) used to occasionally order 

a gallon of mauby from Middle Caicos to be sent up to 

Grand Turk on the plane. It’s used for aphrodisiac purposes 

in the Turks & Caicos and in Haiti as well (one 

Haitian friend told me, “That’s why there’s eleven million 

of us!”) and its popularity in some areas of Puerto Rico to 

feed the demand for manifestation of machismo resulted 

in the total disappearance of the trees, necessitating the 

few remaining to be fenced for their protection. 

Fortunately, its harvest in TCI is low and sustainable, 

with bush doctors coppicing trees rather than removing 

them, so new branches grow back from the trunks. While 

there’s somewhat a revival of interest in bush medicine, 

trees are no longer under the pressure they once were, 

with many people opting for modern conventional drugs. 

But the benefits of mauby are well-studied, and it’s not a 

bunch of magical hocus-pocus. 

The magic in plants is in their expertise as master 

chemists, and the trees that produce mauby must be 

some of the most achieved laboratory professors of all. 

They produce hundreds of compounds that facilitate their 

respiration, protection, photosynthesis, repair and reproductive 

cycles. 

Studies into the compounds they produce have 

revealed that these trees are pulsing with cocktails in their 

sap. With twice the tannins of red wine, the Colubrina trees 

work hard on producing chemicals. Polyphenols protect 

the trees from ultraviolet light damage and allow toughening 

of tissues that have been attacked by pests and 

diseases. An array of antioxidants is present in mauby, 

some unique to the plant. Phenolic acid has been shown to 

fight prostate cancer in medical studies in Sicily, and flavonoids 

and anthocyanins help regulate chronic diseases 

through inhibiting genetic inflammation and inflammatory 

T-cells, as well as controlling immune cell activity. 

Medical trials have shown these compounds effective in 

treating asthma, arthritis and a variety of other inflammatory 

diseases. Flavanols help block fat retention and 

show anticancer properties. Several of the many alkaloids 

present in mauby show antitumor qualities. Saponins, 

which make the suds favoured in the soap bush, also 

have anti-inflammatory effects. Isoflavones are present in 

higher concentrations than in soy (known to help prevent 

breast cancer) and stilbenes present in mauby are known 

to inhibit formation of Alzheimer’s disease. 

Studies done at University of the West Indies Trinidad 

and Tobago found significant reduction in blood pressure 

26 www.timespub.tc

during two weeks of daily mauby consumption compared 

to placebo; similar results were noted along with lowering 

of pulse rate in a study carried out in New York. Indeed, 

the benefits of Mauby are well documented and continually 

bring studied. 

Before you rush out to your nearest bush doctor and 

imbibe a quart of mauby to solve your every health problem, 

remember that plant medicines are not inherently 

safer than drugs from the pharmacy. Mistakes in species 

identification, preparation methods and dosage can have 

significant effects, and mauby is known, with so many 

compounds in it, to contraindicate some medications 

dangerously. One should always be certain to discuss 

additions of medications, including bush medicine, to 

one’s health regimen with a physician. Unfortunately, it’s 

getting harder to find bush doctors these days, and the 

art is gradually losing pieces as bush doctors stop practicing. 

Fortunately, Mr. Alton has always been willing to 

teach about bush medicine, and that’s why my students 

would visit him. His knowledge of medicinal plants, which 

is traditional and passed down from generations before, 

is now being analysed in laboratories and found to have 

significant potential. About 80% of our modern medicines 

originate in plants, and we have a lot more plants to 

investigate—there are lots more compounds to describe. 

That crossover between fieldwork and lab work is important, 

as is sharing benefits fully with the countries that 

own those genetic and cultural resources. 

While our approach was conservation rather than 

medical development, the traditional uses of plants are 

fascinating, and my students always come back to me 

with lists of questions, usually on the botanical names of 

the often-colourful local names Mr. Alton uses. But one 

student I had, of the posher and formally educated ilk, 

came back with a question that took some time for me 

to digest. This student wanted to know who Marge was. 

“Marge?” I asked. My student explained that Mr. Alton 

kept mentioning someone named Marge when talking 

about certain plant medicines. I asked for more information 

and recognised the pattern. “It’s not a person’s 

name. It’s not Marge . . . it’s marriage. I can understand 

how it sounds like Marge to you.” My student looked distraught, 

searched through notes, and began explaining 

more. “Yes,” I explained, “You marriage plants to produce 

some medications. It means combining them. Marriage 

them.” My student looked rather taken aback, even horrified, 

and scoffed, “Marriage? But that’s not a verb!” a 

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green pages 

newsletter of the department of environment & coastal resources 

head office: church folly, grand turk, tel 649 946 2801 • fax 649 946 1895 

• astwood street, south caicos, tel 649 946 3306 • fax 946 3710 

• national environmental centre, lower bight road, providenciales 

parks division, tel 649 941 5122 • fax 649 946 4793 

fisheries division, tel 649 946 4017 • fax 649 946 4793 

email environment@gov.tc or dema.tci@gmail.com • web https://www.gov.tc/decr/ 

DAVID M STONE 

East Caicos reefs represent a significant reservoir of coral reef biodiversity that could prove to be resilient to climate change. 

Hope for TCI’s Future 

Climate change resilience and East Caicos coral reefs. 

By Kathleen Wood, Don Stark and Marsha Pardee 

In January 2017, the Turks & Caicos Reef Fund (TCRF), in association with SWA Environmental and Marine 

Environmental Services (MES), received a Swift Small Grant from the European Union’s BEST 2.0 Project. 

Entitled “East Caicos KBA’s Corals and Coasts: A Key to Safeguarding TCI’s Future,” the project’s primary 

objectives were to study the coral reef ecosystems at East Caicos and to develop preliminary conservation 

management recommendations. 

Coral reef ecosystems across TCI and the wider Caribbean region are suffering from the ravages of 

climate change, poor fishing practices and impacts from land-based development; however, preliminary 

studies, conducted in May 2017, revealed that East Caicos coral reefs were healthy, with high levels of 

live coral cover and limited evidence of disease or coral bleaching. The research team had cause for hope 

that East Caicos could be a reservoir of coral climate resilience in this changing world. 

28 www.timespub.tc

green pages newsletter of the department of environment & coastal resources 

RICHARD GREEN 

DAVID M STONE 

DAVID M STONE 

Then disaster struck. On September 7, 2017, 

Hurricane Irma slammed into the Turks & Caicos 

Islands as a Category Five storm. A mere fortnight later, 

Hurricane Maria pounded ashore, adding insult to Irma’s 

injuries. On South Caicos, the inhabited island closest to 

East Caicos, more than 90% of buildings were damaged 

or destroyed. Although thankfully, no lives were lost in 

TCI, the catastrophic storms inflicted a scale of human 

suffering on TCI not seen in recent memory. The East 

Caicos research team was concerned that a similar level 

of devastation may have been visited on the natural environment, 

particularly on East Caicos reefs. 

Project background and history 

The scientific research conducted at East Caicos is among 

the most extensive ever undertaken for coral reef ecosystems 

in TCI. Initially, aerial and open-access satellite 

imagery were analyzed to identify potential areas of interest 

for investigating in person. 

Then preliminary field studies were conducted by 

dragging a snorkeler behind a boat and recording observations 

of the seafloor. Using this method, 442 survey 

points were assessed. Following preliminary field studies, 

the marine habitats at East Caicos and their ecological 

characteristics were assessed to create preliminary maps 

using open-access (QGIS) GIS software. This information 

was then shared during a workshop with stakeholders, 

where preliminary conservation zones and management 

recommendations were developed. All this took 

place before the arrival of the 2017 hurricanes, and the 

research team had to wait for almost a year before they 

could discover if their original optimism regarding the 

exceptional ecological qualities of East Caicos reefs had 

been dashed to pieces in the turbulent storms. 

In August 2018, the research team, aided by Explorer 

Adventures, the Department of Environment & Coastal 

Resources (DECR), the School for Field Studies (SFS) and 

TCI residents from the dive and scientific communities, 

were finally able to conduct in-depth monitoring at sixteen 

dive sites and five snorkel sites across the north 

shore of East Caicos. The quantitative surveys examined 

From top: The East Caicos research team heads out to begin conducting 

monitoring at 16 dive sites and five snorkel sites across the 

island’s north shore. The team found that the reefs were healthy and 

thriving. 



From top: Divers conducted in-depth surveys on the reefs’ coral cover, 

diversity, algal cover, coral recruitment rates, fish biomass and diversity. 

On the reefs along East Caicos overall fishing pressure is light, maintaining 

a healthy diversity of fish! 

coral cover, coral diversity, algal cover, coral recruitment 

rates, fish biomass and diversity. 

To the team’s extraordinary relief, East Caicos reefs 

are still vibrant and thriving, in spite of the impacts 

of Hurricanes Irma and Maria. Live coral cover on all 

reefs averaged approximately 20%, with the instance of 

diseased or bleached coral being negligible. Results confirmed 

the research team’s earlier observations, that East 

Caicos reefs represent a significant reservoir of coral reef 

biodiversity that could prove to be resilient to climate 

change. These are important findings for TCI, the region 

and the world. 

Coral reefs and climate resilience 

Why are East Caicos reefs doing well when other reefs are 

struggling to survive? Resilience is the capacity to recover 

from or adapt to impacts and/or change. Although coral 

reefs have been in existence for approximately 500 million 

years, they are struggling to keep pace with the rapid 

environmental changes that humans are inflicting on 

the planet. Corals are particularly sensitive to changes 

in temperature and water chemistry. Warming water, 

coupled with pollutants from human development and 

agriculture have been catastrophic to coral populations 

on a global scale, and scientists estimate that most of the 

world’s coral reefs will be gone by the end of the century. 

Resilient populations, such as those at East Caicos, 

may be all that are left to repopulate the world’s 

oceans, if they can survive. 

East Caicos corals stand a better chance than most 

for a number of reasons. The main factor is probably 

the fact that there is no land-based development at East 

Caicos; therefore, land-based pollution is negligible, 

allowing offshore reefs to enjoy close-to-pristine water 

quality. Diverse fish populations are also a critical factor. 

Herbivorous fish maintain healthy coral populations 

by eating competing algae and creating space for corals 

to grow and prosper. Although East Caicos is an important 

fishing area for South Caicos fisherfolk, fish species 

that are critical to coral reef health, particularly herbivorous 

parrotfish, are not targeted. Furthermore, overall 

fishing pressure is light, due to prevailing weather conditions, 

which allow for fishing only a few days of the 

year. A final factor protecting East Caicos reefs may be 

cold water, which upwells from the depths of the adjacent 

7,000-foot-deep Columbus Passage, bathing north 

shore East Caicos reefs in cool water and protecting them 

to some extent from the rising ocean temperatures that 

are killing off corals worldwide. In spite of these factors, 

which offer East Caicos reefs a fighting chance, they are 

still vulnerable to human activities. 

Developing a conservation 

management plan 

With the exception of only a small portion of marine habitat 

contained within the Ramsar Nature Reserve, none 

of the coral reefs surrounding East Caicos have any 

conservation status. East Caicos’ remoteness and inaccessibility 

have thus far protected it from major development 

MATTHEW SLATTERY 

DAVID M STONE 

30 www.timespub.tc


This peaceful scene on East Caicos exemplifies the need to keep it as an area of natural beauty in the Turks & Caicos Islands. 

AGILE LEVIN 

DAVID M STONE 

schemes, but with other land areas rapidly developing 

in TCI, East Caicos is viewed as a reservoir for future 

major development. Many development proposals for 

East Caicos have been suggested, such as trans-shipping 

and cruise ports. Another project that may be detrimental 

is the proposed “link road,” which will connect all the 

Caicos Islands via causeways and bridges. The link road 

will undoubtedly open up the island to large-scale and 

uncontrolled development, as land grabbers flock to get 

a piece of newly accessible land. Industrial commercial 

fishing interests have also engaged from time to time 

in large-scale trap fishing off East Caicos. Such practices 

threaten the integrity of coral reef ecosystems via physical 

damages to the reefs and indiscriminate trapping of 

all fish species, including those important to coral reef 

health. 

In order to address these issues, the project developed 

conservation management recommendations for 

four conservation zones at East Caicos. These recommendations 

were presented to stakeholders on South Caicos 

in September 2018 and have been delivered to DECR and 

Scientist Kathleen Wood analyzes water samples collected by divers 

on the East Caicos reefs. 



the TCI Government (TCIG). Interested parties can view 

the final project report and recommendations at www. 

TCRF.org. 

Specifically, while traditional fishing should be 

allowed to continue, the research team recommends a 

ban on commercial-scale trap fishing across the northern 

coastline of East Caicos. The team is also recommending 

that the island be developed lightly, focusing on ecotourism 

activities, which benefit small business owners 

and operators, rather than on large-scale developments, 

which will benefit only a few wealthy elites. The link road 

should also bypass East Caicos, if the island’s intact but 

fragile ecosystems are to stand any chance of survival. 

Most importantly, these reefs need to be monitored over 

time to identify any changes that may be occurring. 

In order to ensure long-term monitoring takes place, 

an NGO/Public/Private partnership has been outlined 

between the TCRF, DECR and Explorer Adventures to 

conduct regular monitoring at the established permanent 

monitoring sites at least every two years. The ratification 

and implementation of the recommended conservation 

zones and management plans falls within the remit of 

the TCIG. History will record if decision-makers are able 

to set aside short-term political and financial expediency 

to save East Caicos coral reefs for the world’s future generations. 

We can but hope. a 

Special thanks to the Explorer Adventures Fleet, operators 

of the Turks & Caicos Explorer II for supporting this 

effort by providing the vessel for completing the quantitative 

survey work in August 2018. Thanks are also offered 

to the DECR, the School for Field Studies and Timothy, 

Marley and Vonne Hamilton for their assistance with this 

project. 

This document has been produced with the financial 

assistance of the European Union. The contents of this 

document are the sole responsibility of Wangeningen 

Marine Research and the Turks & Caicos Reef Fund and 

can under no circumstances be regarded as reflecting the 

position of the European Union. a 

32 www.timespub.tc


Ban the bag 

Single-use plastic shopping bags will soon be removed 

from supermarkets and shops across the TCI. The government-approved 

import ban will come into effect 

from January 1, 2019, with a ban on the use of singleuse 

plastic bags by retailers to come into effect on May 

1, 2019. There is a list of alternative bags which can be 

used by retailers from May 1, 2019, on which reduced 

custom tariff rates on some will be applied. 

Although some residents and visitors are waiting 

with baited breath for the plastic bag ban to kick into 

gear in the TCI, others find themselves anxious about 

what this would really mean for them and their households. 

I’m here to tell you ‘“Fear no more!” 

Let’s start with the “Why?” Why do we want to get 

rid of these convenient little carriers? They are useful 

for many reasons beyond carrying groceries out of the 

store: They double as bin liners, are great for picking 

up your dog’s doo-doo, save any fragile hairstyle from 

the rain and are recyclable. Right? Wrong! 

They may do all of the above, but their harm far 

outweighs their usefulness. On average, it is estimated 

that one person can use up to 170 plastic bags every 

year. Of this, 150 million end up as litter, as only 3% 

of them are currently being recycled and 200,000 bags 

are dumped in landfills every hour. In China, 3 billion 

single-use plastic bags are used every day. Worldwide, 

about 2 million plastic bags are used every minute! 

“So what,” you might ask? More frequently we are 

seeing marine animals wash up on shore, with bellies 

filled with our convenience. Ocean Crusaders estimate 

that 100,000 marine creatures each year die from 

plastic entanglement and these are the ones found. 

Approximately 1 million sea birds also die from plastic. 

A plastic bag can kill numerous animals because 

they take so long to disintegrate. Plastic does not 

biodegrade, no matter how many times we stamp “biodegradable” 

on the bag. That means that as it breaks 

up in our oceans, it has the potential to exponentially 

harm! And not only sea creatures. 

The World Economic Forum’s research has revealed 

that 90% of our table salt is contaminated with plastics, 

and—which may be even more alarming—microplastics 

(the name we’ve given to the VERY tiny pieces that have 

broken down, but not degraded) are now being found 

in our poop! The full implications of this are yet to be 

seen, but we can just look at what it is doing to our 

marine and terrestrial friends and wonder if we would 

suffer a similar fate? 

However, there is hope! Our region has not seen a 

massive reaction to plastics, in comparison to the rest 

of the world, but TCI is one of the leaders on the frontline 

of the war against plastic! Resorts and restaurants 

are now serving drinks with paper straws (or no straws 

at all) and are banning the single-use plastic water bottles, 

instead offering guests a reusable souvenir that 

may be filled up at water stations around the resort. So 

those are the “big guys” making a change, but we, the 

little guys, the individuals, have a responsibility too. 

Not just to our environment, or ourselves, but to the 

generation to follow after us. The plastic bag ban is a 

simple and easy way to ensure that we are all (whether 

it is convenient or not) becoming custodians of our natural 

environment. 

It’s all about a change of habit. Speaking from experience, 

once you break your old habit (using single-use 

shopping bags) and get into the routine of putting the 

re-usable carriers in your car, after using them for your 

regular shop, then it really is “as easy as that.” 

I am here to give you the permission to moan and 

groan, but keep an open mind and remind yourself that 

your inconvenience may mean the world to the planet’s 

future. Start packing your car with those re-usable bags 

today, making it a habit for a lifetime. a 

By Amy Avenant, 

DECR Environment Outreach Coordinator 



JOHN DEBUYSSER 

A typical South Caicos coral community includes lobed star coral and boulder star coral, lettuce coral and the massive starlet coral. 

Battle of the Reefs 

Comparing South Caicos and East Caicos coral communities. 

By John DeBuysser and Heidi Hertler, Ph.D. 

Coral reefs are one of the most productive and biodiverse ecosystems on Earth, supporting 25% of marine 

species and over 850 million people while composing only 0.015% of the ocean floor. These habitats 

are of such importance to ecosystem function and worldwide economy that 2018 has been declared the 

International Year of the Reef. 

In the Caribbean region, coral reefs provide an estimated $3.1 to $5 billion to the Caribbean economy 

through fisheries, shoreline protection, and tourism. The Turks & Caicos Islands (TCI) are fortunate to 

have this beautiful and productive resource at our back door, supporting the local tourism and fishing 

industries. The tide of tourism is rapidly flowing into the TCI, with numbers of visitors steadily increasing. 

What we do now to preserve these habitats benefits the economy and sustains this resource for future 

generations. 

34 www.timespub.tc


Worldwide coral reefs are threatened by climate 

change, ocean acidification, and anthropogenic disturbance. 

Tropical reefs have lost more than half their 

reef-building corals since the 1970s. Experts have established 

a historical baseline of 53% live coral cover for 

the Caribbean; today there is less than 20%. Although 

coral cover in the TCI was recorded to be 20% in 1999, 

it could not be determined if this area was following the 

Caribbean trend. TCI reefs are fortunate to have low algae 

cover compared to the rest of the Caribbean, allowing 

stronger coral recruitment and resiliency to disturbance 

events. 

The resiliency of the Turks & Caicos’ reef ecosystem, 

particularly those surrounding South and East Caicos, is 

bolstered by a relatively extensive network of marine protected 

areas and low anthropogenic impact, respectively. 

In total, these 34 protected zones cover an area of 705 

km 2 and comprise 11 national parks, 11 nature reserves, 

7 areas of historical interest, and 4 sanctuaries. The 

Admiral Cockburn Land and Sea National Park is one of 

these areas off the southern shore of South Caicos. The 

park was designated for its excellent reef habitat and representation 

of the greater TCI reef system. This area has 

minimal pressure from development or tourism, providing 

excellent utility as a study area to establish baselines 

for TCI reef health. 

The School for Field Studies Center for Marine 

Resource Studies (SFS CMRS) is located in South Caicos 

and ideally situated to study and monitor local reef systems. 

SFS is a US-based academic institution that provides 

multidisciplinary, field-based environmental study abroad 

opportunities to undergraduate university students. 

East Caicos is the TCI’s largest uninhabited island 

and lies to the north of South Caicos. The reefs of East 

Caicos are important historic fishing grounds yet are 

largely without survey or assessment. This past August 

the TC Reef Fund, in cooperation with Explorer Ventures 

and funded through an EU BEST 2.0 Swift Small Grant 

(“Understanding East Caicos KBA’s Corals and Coasts: 

A Key to Safeguarding TCI’s Future”), hosted scientists 

aboard the Turks & Caicos Explorer II, including SFS CMRS 

faculty Dr. Franziska Elmer, to conduct the first mapping 

and habitat surveys of the area. 

East Caicos’ coral reefs are not within a protected 

area, though the island’s remoteness, uninhabited status, 

and limited history of commercial and agricultural use 

School for Field Studies staff and students conduct underwater 

assessments of permanent transects at South Caicos reef sites. 

have protected the marine ecosystems from significant 

degradation and make it ideal for comparison to other 

systems around the TCI. 

Benthic surveys of South Caicos reefs have been completed 

by SFS staff and students in the fall and spring 

for the past six years. Ten permanent transects are surveyed 

and photographed. Coral Point Count with Excel 

Extensions (CPCe) was used to analyze photos by identifying 

species under randomly selected points. Over 44,000 

spatially random points on the photographs were analyzed. 

This year the survey of local reefs was expanded to 

include East Caicos. Similar to South, 49,500 points were 

surveyed along transects on the north side of East Caicos. 

Data was grouped into live coral (stony corals), soft 

corals (gorgonians), sponges, algae (macro and coralline), 

and unsettled substrate (sand, pavement and rubble). 

We observed a slight decline in live coral cover on South 

Caicos from 2015 to 2018, though this difference was 

found to not be significant. East Caicos averaged 12% 

live coral cover as compared to South Caicos’ 4% live 

coral cover. Conversely, East Caicos was found to have 

significantly greater macro algae cover as compared to 

South Caicos, which featured more bare rock and rubble 

substrate. The presence of bare substrate without 

HEIDI HERTLER 



algal competitors suggests this can be good habitat for 

coral recruitment, hopefully poising South Caicos for an 

increase in coral cover. 

The South Caicos coral community is dominated 

by lettuce coral (Agaricia agaricites), lobed star coral 

(Orbicella annularis), boulder star coral (Orbicella franksi) 

and the massive starlet coral (Siderastrea siderea), while 

East Caicos reefs are characterized by mountainous star 

coral (Orbicella faveolata), lobed star coral (Orbicella 

annularis), boulder star coral (Orbicella franksi) and 

mustard hill coral (Porites astreoides). We compared the 

biodiversity of the two areas using the Shannon-Weaver 

Index. This metric takes into account both the number of 

species present and also the relative abundance within 

the community. These values are important when trying 

to understand community structure. Although East 

Caicos appears to have greater benthic diversity, there 

was not a significant difference between the sites. 

Moving forward, we will continue to monitor the South 

Caicos and East Caicos reef systems. Further analysis will 

focus on coral recruitment rates to better understand the 

net population trends of the present coral community 

and its resiliency to potential disturbances. Both South 

Caicos and East Caicos reefs will likely face challenges as 

tourism continues to rise and fishing pressure increases 

to feed a growing population. Research such as this provides 

detailed information on the status of these reefs so 

stakeholders can make informed decisions on the management 

and preservation of the “Beautiful by Nature” 

marine resources of the Turks & Caicos Islands. a 

Sources 

Buddemeier RW, Lane DR, Martinich JA (2011) Modeling 

regional coral reef responses to global warming and 

changes in ocean chemistry: Caribbean case study. 

Climactic Change 109: 375-397. 

Carleton C, Hambrey J (2006) Review and re-assessment 

of the TCI protected area system. Nautilus Consultants 

Ltd. 

Dikou A, Ackerman C, Banks C, Dempsey A, Fox M, 

Gins M, Hester P, Parnes A, Roach S, Rohde J, Spital C, 

Tapleshay M, Thomas L (2009) Ecological assessment 

to detect imminent change in coral reefs of Admiral 

Cockburn Land and Sea National Park, Turks and Caicos 

Islands. Marine Ecology 30: 425-436. 

From top: Coral Point Count with Excel Extensions (CPCe) allows for 

determination of coral cover from transect photographs by identifying 

species at random points. 

This graph shows the percent coverage of transects determined from 

photo analysis. East Caicos (green) and South Caicos (orange) are 

compared by three categories: corals and sponges, macroalgae and 

coralline algae, and sand, pavement, and rubble. 

International Year of the Reef (2018) International Coral 

Reef Initiative. 

Jackson JBC, Donovan MK, Cramer KL, Lam VV (editors). 

(2014) Status and trends of Caribbean coral reefs: 1970- 

2012. Global Coral Reef Monitoring Network, IUCN, 

Gland, Switzerland. 

Kohler KE and Gill SM (2006) Coral Point Count with Excel 

extensions (CPCe): A visual basic program for the determination 

of coral and substrate coverage using random 

point count methodology. Computers and Geosciences 

32(9): 1259-1269. 

World Wildlife Fund (2015) Living blue planet report: species, 

habitats and human well-being. World Wildlife Fund 

International, Gland, Switzerland. 

36 www.timespub.tc

MARTA MORTON—WWW.HARBOURCLUBVILLAS.COM

feature 

Opposite page: Building the Caicos Sloops that were so important for transportation and trade required tremendous ingenuity and resourcefulness 

from the native boat builders. 

Above: This 1910 postcard shows workers in the salt ponds of Grand Turk, in front of the Old Prison and Victoria Library. Although they were 

not slaves (slavery was abolished in 1834), the image depicts the difficult conditions workers faced. 

E NEALE COVERLEY—COURTESY TURKS & CAICOS NATIONAL MUSEUM COLLECTION 

Sailing to Freedom 

TCI slave escapes in the early 1800s. 

By Ben Stubenberg 

Few endeavors are more woven into the culture and history of the Turks & Caicos Islands than sailing. Ever 

since the Bermudians rediscovered TCI some 350 years ago and began collecting salt from the natural 

salinas, boats played a defining role. By day, fast and agile sloops called “lighters” brought sacks of the 

precious “white gold” from the shores of Grand Turk, Salt Cay and South Caicos to larger ships waiting in 

deep water for the voyage back to Bermuda. Larger sloops plied the turquoise waters between the scattered 

TCI settlements where Islanders welcomed their arrival for the passengers and cargo they carried 

and news they brought of separated kin and the world beyond. 

At night, however, the vessels served a more daring, clandestine purpose. Under the cover of darkness, 

the salt raker slaves who had had enough secretly gathered on the beach where the boats bobbed in 

the sea. Quietly, they unfurled and raised the sails, let the warm wind fill the luffing canvass, and steered 

south by the stars splashed across a black Caribbean sky to freedom. 


The rocky islets of Bermuda, where this story begins, 

lie some 750 miles (1200 km) due north of the TCI in 

the middle of the North Atlantic. Settlers from Scotland, 

England and Ireland first arrived on the 21 square mile 

archipelago in the early 1600s and tried to make a go at 

small scale agriculture. But when the soil depleted after a 

couple of generations, they looked for other ways to survive. 

Straddling the major shipping routes from Europe to 

the West Indies, as well as close proximity to the American 

colonies, Bermudians found a niche as an opportunistic 

seafaring outpost. The settlers and the African slaves 

they imported built boats with shallow drafts that also 

made them more maneuverable for negotiating tricky 

reefs. They also improved the four cornered trapezoid 

gaff rig so it could point the boats more closely into the 

wind and require fewer tacks. 

In what became known and admired as the Bermudian 

Sloop, sailors gained a decisive advantage that translated 

into a measure of autonomy and a geographical 

reach well beyond their isolated islands. It also bred a 

brash, adventurous spirit in a dangerous, unforgiving 

world where pirates and warships roamed the same seas, 

jockeying for dominance and riches. Though nominally 

under British dominion, Bermudians often became pirates 

themselves and traded with any nation that could pay, 

including Britain’s enemies. 

With these swift sloops, the Bermudians, black and 

white, explored the Bahamian Archipelago in search of 

shipwrecks with treasure and to hunt for turtles. During 

one of the voyages in the latter 1600s, they came across 

the then-uninhabited islands of TCI. A century before, the 

Taino and Lucayan Indians had all been killed by disease, 

slaughtered, or carried off as slaves forced to dive for 

pearls off the coast of Venezuela. (See “Diving Free,” Fall 

2018 Times of the Islands.) The Bermudians took note of 

the salinas (salt ponds) of Grand Turk, Salt Cay, and South 

Caicos that allowed in just enough ocean water to leave 

behind high quality salt around the edges after evaporation 

in the hot sun. Before refrigeration, salt preserved 

food, and was thus extremely valuable. 

At first, the Bermudians dropped off white, indentured 

salt rakers in March at the beginning of the dry season 

The hard, brutal work and conditions for the salt-raking slaves were detailed in the story of Mary Prince, herself a slave from Bermuda who 

spent ten years on Grand Turk from 1802 to 1812. After being brought to London as a slave, she ran away from her “owner” and told her 

story to British abolitionist Thomas Pringle, who transcribed her words that became a best selling book. 

40 www.timespub.tc

Walkin May2017_Layout 1 5/28/17 5:45 PM Page 1 

and picked them up in November, along with the salt they 

had gathered. As demand for salt rose in New England, 

Newfoundland, and Labrador to keep cod from rotting 

(fishermen needed two pounds of salt for every pound of 

fish), Bermudian salt merchant slaveholders swapped the 

white salt rakers for slaves of African descent and established 

permanent settlements around the ponds. 

Slavery’s harsh reality 

The work and conditions were hard and brutal. (See 

“Toiling in the Salt Ponds,” Fall 2008 Times of the Islands.) 

We know in painful detail from a rare first-hand account 

of the plight of salt-raking slaves by Mary Prince, herself 

a slave from Bermuda who spent ten years on Grand Turk 

from 1802 to 1812. After being brought to London as a 

slave, she ran away from her “owner” and told her story to 

British abolitionist Thomas Pringle, who transcribed her 

words that became a best selling book. 

“I was given a half barrel and a shovel, and had to stand 

up to my knees in the water, from four o’clock in the 

morning till nine. [I} worked through the heat of the day; 

the sun flaming upon our heads like fire, and raising 

salt blisters. Our feet and legs, from standing in the salt 

water for so many hours, soon became full of dreadful 

boils, which eat down in some cases to the very bone. We 

then shoveled up the salt in large heaps and sometimes 

we had to work all night, measuring salt to load a vessel; 

or turning a machine to draw water out of the sea for the 

salt-making.” 

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Any slave perceived as not putting in full effort could 

expect tortuous punishment. Mary Prince describes what 

happened to “Old Daniel” who could not work as hard as 

the others because of a lame hip. 

“[The owner] would order him to be stripped and laid 

down on the ground, and have him beaten with a rod 

of rough briar till his skin was quite red and raw. He 

would then call for a bucket of salt, and fling [it] upon 

the raw flesh till the man writhed on the ground like a 

worm, and screamed aloud with agony. This poor man’s 

wounds were never healed. I have often seen them full of 

maggots, which increased his torments to an intolerable 

degree. He was an object of pity and terror to the whole 

gang of slaves, and in his wretched case we saw, each of 

us, our own lot, if we should live to be as old.” 

For the slaves, it was well nigh impossible to break 



What became the Caicos Sloop proved to be the equal of the masterful Bermudian sloop, allowing TCI to develop its own sailing prowess. The 

maritime linkages between the Islands enabled the boat builders to pass on sailing skills to salt rakers. 

out of their subjugation. Unlike mountainous Jamaica 

where runaway slaves called “Maroons” could hide in 

small communities deep in the interior jungles, TCI’s 

small, flat islands offered no such refuge. The slave masters 

had the salt rakers trapped—until a confluence of 

three pivotal elements gave them a chance: The means 

to escape, a safe haven, and an intelligence network to 

guide their course of action. 

Building the Caicos sloop 

As slaves like Mary Prince and Old Daniel labored to produce 

ever more salt under threat of violence, the salt 

merchant pond owners needed more boats to transport 

their commodity. Bermuda was already running short of 

trees to cut, but small forests in Middle Caicos turned out 

to have excellent quality wood to build small lighters, as 

well as bigger sloops for longer voyages. Constructing 

the boats locally instead of sailing hundreds of miles 

down from Bermuda made sense. And soon an independent 

boat building industry sprang up using African 

slaves from Bermuda as shipwrights, carpenters and 

blacksmiths. 

The tenacity to build Bermudian-style fast sloops from 

scratch in the bush cannot be overstated. David Douglas, 

owner of the West Indian sloop Atabeyra and founder 

of the Caicos Sloop Project, makes clear the incredible 

resourcefulness and ingenuity required. “With just meager 

tools, these TCI guys went into the bush, found the 

right trees, and hand-cut the wood to build ocean-going 

vessels. And the builders passed down that knowledge, 

as well as the skills to sail, from one generation to the 

next, right through to today.” 

James S. Deane of Wheeling on Providenciales recalled 

the traditional boat building techniques that he had 

learned from his father. They built their Caicos Sloops the 

way they did 200 years ago, using mostly strong locust or 

mahogany wood for the keel and ribs and Caicos pine for 

the planks, mast and spars. Builders would often search 

and select trees that already had a natural curve so just 

one piece could be used. “After laying the keel,” Mr. 

Deane said, “the ribbing shape only varied between the 

more rounded ‘rainbow’ style or ‘straight V.’ My father 

could cut the planks so precise that the spacing would 

be as little as 1/64th of an inch. But the craftsmanship 

was actually too good, as it did not permit enough space 

for the caulking using sisal tree fibers and ‘putty’ made 

from a mix of ant nest and paint. So they had to widen the 

spacing a bit.” For Mr. Deane and the other boat builders 

of today and long ago, the sloops were as much a work 

of art and beauty, as function. They wanted their boats to 

42 www.timespub.tc

look as good as they sailed. 

What became the Caicos Sloop proved to be the equal 

of the masterful Bermudian sloop, allowing TCI to develop 

its own sailing prowess. The maritime linkages between 

the Islands enabled the boat builders to pass on sailing 

skills to salt rakers, according to Dr. Carlton Mills, editor 

of the The History of the Turks & Caicos Islands. That connection 

was particularly strong between Middle Caicos 

and South Caicos, as boats regularly launched from the 

settlement of Lorimers and made their way down the 

channel and the lee side of South Caicos for trade, news 

and, over time, family ties with the salt rakers. Dr. Mills 

also points out that salt rakers on Grand Turk, Salt Cay 

and South Caicos likely worked on the small lighters sailing 

between the shore and larger ships to bring salt and 

off-load cargo, which would further enhance their nautical 

knowledge. For slaves seeking to escape, however, 

the boats had limited utility unless they could find refuge 

with contacts, a sanctuary in an otherwise hostile environment. 

Slaves revolt in Haiti 

Beginning in the 1770s, revolutions rumbled first in the 

American Colonies, followed by France, and then Haiti. 

All violently challenged longstanding notions of hierarchy 

and power and called for a new, more egalitarian political 

order. However imperfectly, the leaders attempted to 

apply what had been only philosophical concepts of basic 

rights, social contract and democratic self-determination. 

For slaves in Haiti, the revolutionary choice was far more 

stark—barbarous bondage or liberty. 

The French colony then known as St. Domingue lay 

just 100 miles (160 km) south of TCI and encompassed a 

third of Hispañola. The fertile land there produced more 

wealth than any other colony in the Caribbean, mainly 

through vast sugar cane plantations. For aspiring French 

gentry seeking fortune and higher status, Haiti offered 

a clear path to get there. All it took were seed capital, 

importing thousands of slaves from Africa to work the 

fields and a decade of ruthless plantation management. 

Slaveholders figured they could get one or two year’s of 

hard labor from a slave before he or she succumbed to 

Yellow Fever or exhaustion, so they constantly sought 

to replenish slaves, while expanding their plantations to 

generate more income. The reckless greed soon led to 

a 10:1 ratio of slaves to whites, higher than other West 

Indian colonies, including TCI which had at most a 6:1 

ratio. Watching the insurrections in Haiti and experienc- 


BEN STUBENBERG 

James S. Deane of the Wheeling settlement in Providenciales is one of the great living TCI boat builders. He learned the craft from his father. 

ing their own revolts in Jamaica, the British were especially 

sensitive to slaves overwhelming the white population, 

according to Dr. Mills, and sought to reduce the ratios as 

a management technique. 

In 1791, the first revolt took place in Northern Haiti 

near the colony’s capital, Cap-François, today called Cap- 

Haitien or Okap. The slaves massacred several plantation 

families before being put down. But precedent had been 

set, and soon new uprisings took place leading to the 

creation of well-led Haitian militias that evolved into disciplined 

armies pitted against French troops fighting to 

preserve the plantation system. 

The conflict took many twists and turns over the 

next 12 years, including alliances on both sides with free 

mulattos who saw an opportunity to improve their own 

lot as a class with limited rights. The French Revolution 

ideals of liberty, equality and fraternity had already 

reached Haiti’s shores and been internalized by slaves 

and mulattos. When Napoleon Bonaparte came to power 

in France in 1802, the now ex-slaves had taken control 

over most of Haiti. Influenced by his wife Josephine, herself 

from Martinique, another colony dependent on slaves 

to cut cane, and plantation owners eager to regain their 

holdings, Napoleon sent an army of 50,000 men from 

France to quash the rebellion definitively. By the following 

year, however, almost all the troops had been wiped out 

by Yellow Fever and a formidable Haitian fighting force. 

Napoleon would later write that his effort to win back 

Haiti was the worst decision he ever made. 

On January 1, 1804, Haitian leaders formally declared 

their independence, becoming the second independent 

republic in the Americas and the first black one. They 

discarded the name St. Domingue and restored the original 

Taino Indian name, Haiti, meaning “land of high 

mountains.” The Haitian Revolution stands as the only 

successful slave revolt in history. The biggest slave rebellion 

prior to Haiti had been the unsuccessful uprising led 

by Spartacus against the Romans more than 1,900 years 

earlier. Keenly cognizant of their singular accomplishment, 

Haitians enticed thousands of free and enslaved 

blacks in the West Indies to flee to their shores and secure 

rights denied elsewhere. 

44 www.timespub.tc

Network of black mariners 

The triumph by the oppressed in Haiti reverberated 

throughout the slave communities in the West Indies, 

as well as among slaveholders fearful that insurrections 

might come their way too. While slaveholders, merchants 

and government authorities typically got their information 

through the press, letters, official reports, visitors 

and sometimes plantation owners fleeing the strife in 

Haiti, slaves received their updates in a very different 

manner. Excluded from standard forms of communication, 

slaves relied instead on black sailors who picked up 

news in the ports they visited and passed it on, effectively 

creating a parallel structure. 

Dr. Kevin Dawes, Professor of History at the University 

of California, Merced, explores this dynamic in his paper 

“Enslaved Ship Pilots in the Age of Revolution: Challenging 

Notions of Race and Slavery between the Boundaries of 

Land and Sea.” He writes: 

“Atlantic ports were market places for news and pilots 

funneled intelligence between mariners, passengers, and 

shoreside communities, serving as the overseas eyes and 

ears of urban and rural slave communities. News was 

passed by word of mouth along maritime routes . . . free 

black sailors linked black communities in New England to 

the West Indies.” 

Hugh final_Layout 1 5/29/17 1:15 PM Page 1 

Professor Dawes goes on to assert that “these murmurs 

of liberty rippled across the greater Caribbean inspiring 

corollary slave rebellions.” 

During this era of political and social upheaval in 

the Americas, black mariners, slave and free, occupied a 

unique and liberating space on the water with far fewer 

constraints than slaves on land. Able to roam, these men 

of the sea witnessed and absorbed the fissures of instability 

and change in the region that they passed on. In 

the fluid environment, black mariners also understood 

how their specialized skills could be exploited for more 

privileges and to redefine notions of race and status. As 

Professor Dawes explains, the independent character of 

the labor of free and enslaved black mariners “undercut 

white dominance, allowing them to use the ocean as a 

transient sphere of opportunity where they severed terrestrial 

ties . . . and gained economic advantages and 

racial parity deprived ashore.” 

Nowhere was this equality more conspicuous than 

with enslaved pilots who gained the trust of white shipmasters 

to safely guide the lumbering sailing vessels into 

tricky harbors after crossing the Atlantic. Shipmasters 

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in fact became dependent on pilots’ essential maritime 

knowledge, enabling them to take advantage and invert 

the racial hierarchy of subservience. Indeed, enslaved 

pilots regularly talked back, cursed and ordered about 

white captains and crew. One account of an enslaved pilot 

in Barbados has him even demanding grog as he took 

command of a ship entering the harbor and offered a 

toast to the white women passengers below, something 

that would not have been tolerated on land. 

Ship owners and shipmasters did not object or challenge 

the pilots, lest they risk the pilot “accidentally” 

crashing the ship and cargo on the reef or shoals around 

the harbor. In some instances, ship owners even enjoyed 

watching the black slave pilots boss around white sailors, 

thus further highlighting the inverted social hierarchy 

on deck. The deference given to these black mariners, 

of course, infused a level of confidence and freedom to 

move about and openly flout the norms of the day. 

As many ships frequented Grand Turk, Salt Cay and 

South Caicos to unload food and materials and pick 

up sacks of salt, these black mariners and other slaves 

brought news of revolt and liberation to the salt rakers. 

Their influence on the salt rakers did not go unnoticed by 

TCI slaveholders who blamed them for inciting escapes. 

In the chapter on Slavery in The History of Turks & Caicos 

Islands, TCI historian Nigel Sadler quotes the assessment 

of the “King’s Agent” in TCI Colonel Alexander Murray in 

1798: 

“Of late many valuable Negroes allured by the description 

given them of French liberty by their associates, 

have eloped to the enemy. One man of Salt Cay, James 

Deane, has lost no less than fifteen. Of the several plans 

to escape with boats to Cap François, we have found no 

instance where the French Negroes were not the principals 

or parties.” 

And this was well before the Haitian Revolution had 

ended. 

It is important to note that while black mariners 

calling on TCI ports played a critical role in transmitting 

intelligence for would-be escapees, they were not the 

only source. Dr. Mills notes that household slaves also 

had excellent access to information by their proximity 

to the salt merchants they served. They may have overheard 

talk about upcoming travels, in-fighting or illnesses 

that would have distracted slaveholders from keeping a 

watchful eye. The house slaves would feign ignorance or 

disinterest when in fact they were listening and observ- 

46 www.timespub.tc

TWATIMES_Layout 1 2/16/17 7:49 AM Page 1 

ing carefully. At the same time, Dr. Mills suggests, slave 

mistresses of the salt merchants may also have picked 

up intelligence through their intimate contact to pass on. 

These important nuggets could be pieced together and 

factored into decision-making for an escape. Any escape 

plot took extensive and creative planning to ensure success. 

Failure was not an option, and there is in fact no 

record of TCI slaves being caught escaping. 

Efforts to stop slave escapes 

The first King’s Agent in TCI, Andrew Symmer, made the 

initial attempt to control boats being taken by slaves. He 

required all boat owners to remove their sails at night 

and instituted liability and penalties by compelling “any 

master of a servant or slave” who absconded with a boat 

“to make good all damages” to the boat’s owner. By the 

early 1800s, local authorities instituted more severe measures 

to punish slaveholders for not controlling slaves 

sufficiently. If the slaveowners lost slaves to escapes, 

authorities reduced their share of the salinas in direct 

proportion to the slaves they no longer had, thus hurting 

them financially. 

The incentives to control slave escapes apparently 

had little effect, as statistics bear out the prevalence of 

slave escapes from TCI. According to Mr. Sadler, “Between 

1822 and 1825, of the 142 slaves listed as runaways in 

the Bahamas (which at that time included TCI), 128 (90%) 

had absconded from Turks & Caicos, mainly due to the 

ease of access to salt ships and proximity of Haiti.” These 

included slaves escaping in this time frame on sloops 

from Hawks Nest, Grand Turk, from North Caicos using 

sloops owned by Wade Stubbs also in 1823, and from 

South Caicos in the sloop Polly taken from Henshall 

Stubbs. 

Finally, British officials deployed a detachment of the 

West Indies Regiment on Grand Turk to uphold law and 

order in the early 1830s. But even that was not enough. 

A year before emancipation in 1834, salt pond owner and 

slaveholder Henshall Stubbs took matters into his own 

hands by furnishing his own boats to serve as a de facto 

coast guard to try to stop the exodus of slaves getting 

away by boat. 

Absconding with sloops to sail to Haiti and freedom 

was not unique to TCI. Professor Dawson notes that in 

1817, seven Jamaican slaves commandeered their pilot 

boat, the Deep Nine, when the owner and captain went 

ashore near Port Royal and sailed it to Haiti. British 

authorities blamed Haitian sailors for importing revolutionary 

ideals that led to the slave escapes by boat. 

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Knowing that the new Haitian government protected fugitives 

from re-enslavement, the runaway Jamaicans made 

no attempt to conceal themselves or their boat when the 

owner/captain came to Haiti looking for them. He got the 

boat back but not the mariners, now former slaves. 

Leaving a legacy 

The names of enslaved TCI salt rakers who escaped their 

ordeal have been lost to history. But through the words of 

Mary Prince echoing through the centuries, we know how 

motivated they must have been. We know the courage 

that it took in view of the severe punishment that awaited 

them if caught. And we know that they were very much 

part of a Great Caribbean network of intelligence fostered 

by black mariners and other slaves who kept them well 

informed. 

Using nautical skills likely acquired from handling 

lighters and from boat builders, escaping slaves would 

have been prepared to sail the 100 miles (160 km) to 

Haiti in less than a day with a good northerly breeze. 

As for navigation, Mr. Douglas posits that the escaping 

slaves probably knew quite well what they were doing. 

“In late winter/spring, they would easily have located 

the Southern Cross just above the southern horizon that 

would have guided them to Cap-Haitien.” 

We can only imagine the anguish the salt rakers felt 

leaving behind family and friends without much hope of 

seeing them again. At the same time, we can sense the 

thrill of escape across the ocean and embarking on a new 

life in a new land, however uncertain the future. Indeed, 

the TCI salt rakers took full advantage of the cracks in 

the prevailing system of bondage to make their move. 

Far from passive observers, scores of salt rakers, perhaps 

hundreds, claimed freedom on their terms in their native 

Caicos sloops despite resolute efforts to stop them, leaving 

behind a legacy of bold defiance. a 

Ben Stubenberg is a contributing writer to Times of the 

Islands with a passion for Turks & Caicos Islands history. 

An avid ocean man, he is the co-founder of the sports and 

adventure tour company Caicu Naniki and the annual 

Turks & Caicos “Race for the Conch” Eco-Seaswim. Ben 

can be reached at ben@caicunaniki.com. 

48 www.timespub.tc

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the sporting life 

Opposite page and above: In order to prepare for his upcoming participation in the 2019 Marathon Des Sables (and to stave off the ravages 

of turning 50!), TCI explorer and author John Galleymore undertook a serious fitness regime. 

Fit at Fifty 

It’s never too late to get in shape when extreme challenges are ahead. 

By TCI Explorer John Galleymore ~ Photos By Brilliant Studios, www.brilliantstudios.com 

As I explained my next planned adventure and what it entailed, a close friend replied, “Hadn’t you look to 

start getting in shape?” He cited a recent picture of me on East Caicos and, on reflection, I have to admit 

I was getting a little portly. If I was serious about competing in the 2019 Marathon Des Sables, a 250 km 

run across the Sahara Desert, then I had some serious training to do. 


I have just turned 50 and have always been active 

with hiking and running, but as you get older the weight 

can start to creep on and it’s often harder for older folks 

to shift it. But take heed, excess weight is not just a vanity 

issue—it can lead to health problems such as strokes, 

diabetes and heart issues. 

I decided to tackle this dilemma on all fronts and not 

just “crash diet” to lose a few pounds. I undertook some 

serious research that led me into the realms of weight 

training, boxing, yoga, nutrition and the understanding 

of hormones and their role in balancing our bodies. 

Before and after 

I decided to set out all the things I needed to change, 

including: 

DIET: I decided make subtle changes to my eating habits. 

Out went white bread, bad carbs, candy, processed foods, 

and most dairy products, and in came more vegetables, 

good fats, seeds and nuts. I cut down on my intake of 

meats (especially red meat) and immediately felt better 

for it. 

GYM: I wanted to keep toned up as I lost weight so 

enrolled in the Wrightfully Fit gym on Providenciales 

(www.wrightfullyfit.com). This had the cross section of 

exercises I was looking for, including free weights, cardio 

machines and boxing punch bags. I gleaned plenty of 

advice from owner John Wright for the road ahead. 

YOGA: I wanted to increase my flexibility. This not only 

decreases the chance of injury, but yoga is a great way to 

de-stress and it can give an enormous sense of well-being 

and calm. I found the best place for all types of yoga at 

any level of ability to be the Retreat Yoga and Wellness 

Studio (www.retreattc.com) at Ports of Call plaza. 

SWIMMING: This is the one sport that “does it all.” If you 

can never run, get to a gym or go to an exercise class, 

then 20 minutes of swimming a few times a week will 

make a huge difference! Better still, you don’t need to be 

an expert swimmer and it’s free! 

HORMONAL IMBALANCE: Most people are only not aware 

that any hormonal imbalance can wreak havoc on the 

body. From thyroid issues to insulin production, how we 

feel (and look) are often a direct result of our natural 

hormone production. 

One aspect of the regime involved a variety of exercises and weight 

training at Wrightfully Fit Gym in Providenciales. 

Working out in the gym 

I have frequented gyms on and off most of my life, so I 

do feel comfortable in them and the machines and equipment 

are second nature to me. However, for a beginner 

they can be very daunting places to walk into. I appreci- 

52 www.timespub.tc

John Galleymore found yoga to increase his flexibility, strength and overall well-being. 

ated the friendliness and welcoming nature of the staff 

and gym users at Wrightfully Fit. A good introduction for a 

novice would be to book a one-to-one session with either 

John or one of his qualified personal trainers. They will 

show you around the gym and give detailed instruction 

on how to use the equipment so that you get maximum 

benefit and exercise safely. They can design a program 

tailormade for you. 

Yoga 

“We believe yoga is a path to connection, and the antidote 

to separation. Yoga is one of the most holistic approaches 

to your well-being, because while the physical aspect of 

yoga is often what draws people to the practice, there 

is an undercurrent of self-awareness and a broader life 

perspective developing.” 

—Laura and Lindsay Mensen 

Yoga is something I’d never done. It never appealed 

to me, because I thought that unless you’re heaving 

weights around, panting for air and sweating profusely, 

it’s not “real” exercise . . . how wrong I was! As a novice, 

I booked a private lesson with Lindsay, who co-founded 

The Retreat with her sister Laura. Within minutes Lindsay 

has me totally at ease. She takes me through several basic 

poses, moves and techniques which are the fundamentals 

of yoga. Once I’ve got the basic grasp, I can join a class 

anywhere I choose. I tell her my concern that I will stand 

out as a novice, and get the poses wrong. She assures 

me that yoga is all about yourself and you go at your own 

pace. I soon find that the positions come easily, although 

I’m amazed at the strength needed to hold them correctly 

for any period of time. Fortunately, you can make the 

session as hard or as easy as you like—The Retreat offers 

classes to suit everyone from Deep Flow to Hot Yoga and 

relaxing and gentle stretching. 

Swimming in warm TCI waters 

I’ve been told countless times that swimming is the best 

all-round exercise you can possible do, for it’s the one 

activity that works all the major muscle groups and gives 

you a cardio workout simultaneously. Despite knowing its 

benefits, I’ve never been a great swimmer and if I was to 

stick to my new fitness regime, that had to change! 

Of all the sports and exercises available, swimming is 

probably one of the few that you can’t initially self-learn. 

Once you have the basics however, you can advance and 

improve alone and at your own pace. 


Although I could already swim, I wanted to improve 

my technique, so I contacted Ben Stubenberg, a TCI swim 

coach and founder of the “Race for the Conch” ocean 

swim event (www.caicunaniki.com). I started off slowly 

and very soon improved my technique, allowing me to 

swim farther. The good thing about swimming is that you 

don’t need to be an expert—even a short swim will give 

you a great workout. If it’s confidence in the water you 

need, there’s no better teacher than Ben, and he offers 

his services to any age and any level of swimmer. 

“Open water swimming provides a workout experience like 

no other. When you swim in the clear turquoise waters of 

our islands, you not only engage the whole body in fluid 

motion, but you enter a different world. There is no other 

exercise that so completely utilizes every muscle group.” 

—Ben Stubenberg 

The training regime 

Now that I had the best information from professionals 

in their fields, I embarked on a 12-week program of 

health and fitness. My goal was to lose my excess weight, 

become fitter, leaner and more supple. I initially set 

about training three to four times a week. Primarily, this 

was gym-based as I wanted to ease into the training to 

avoid any injury. I started off with light weights and built 

up gently as my strength increased. John Wright was a 

constant source of advice and inspiration. Under his guidance, 

I found myself using free weights, boxing punch 

bags and cardio machines. 

I soon added a weekly swim into my program. This 

was actually on my “rest day” from the gym. Rest is as 

important as working out and without good rest days, 

injury and fatigue will soon follow. Swimming is the best 

exercise to limit stress on the body, so it’s perfect to start 

Swimming in TCI’s exquisite turquoise waters is exercise good for 

body, mind and soul. 

off with while you strengthen joints and muscle. 

After a number of lessons at The Retreat Studio, I 

was able to practice yoga at home. It is one of the few 

exercises you can do anywhere! At home, on the beach— 

there’s no excuse once you have learnt the basics and it’s 

also a great way to relieve stress. 

54 www.timespub.tc

Lise amends_Layout 1 11/14/18 7:43 PM Page 1 

In fact, stress and anxiety are one of the key factors 

in gaining and retaining excess weight. Who hasn’t been 

in the situation where we grab a candy bar or slice of 

cake after a hard day? That is stress creating a hormone 

called cortisol. Levels of this “stress hormone” rise during 

tension-filled times. This can turn your overeating into a 

habit. Because increased levels of the hormone also help 

cause higher insulin levels, your blood sugar drops and 

you crave sugary, fatty foods. It is a vicious circle that 

needs to be broken. 

I would recommend that anyone serious about changing 

their lifestyle or concerned about excess weight visit 

the doctor and get blood tests to determine any underlying 

issues. As men age, testosterone decreases and this 

can lead to excess weight around the belly. In women, 

menopause can wreak havoc with weight, so it’s important 

to seek advice whatever your gender. 

Dr. Lise Cloutier 

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Changing my food lifestyle 

In order to find the best way I could to change my “food 

lifestyle,” I contacted Tamika Handfield, founder of 

Nutrition In Demand (www.nutritionindemand.com) and 

one of the leading authorities on nutrition and health in 

the TCI. She says, “Don’t diet—change your lifestyle!” 

Dr. Lise Cloutier, Courtyard Chiropractic and Wellness 

La Vista Azul, Unit 6-9, Turtle Cove, Providenciales, TCI 

Call 649-339-1000 

www.ChiropractorAndMassageTherapy.ca 

urgent care • family medicine 

URGENT CARE 

WALK-IN CLINIC 

“Eating well is fundamentally important to living well and 

having good quality of life as we age. The old adage, ‘We 

are what we eat,’ turns out to be true. The nourishment 

the body needs to support good growth in children and 

optimal health in adults comes directly from the foods we 

eat. Therefore, it is imperative that we choose whole foods 

over refined foods; fruits and vegetables over chips and 

soda and lean protein sources such as beans and poultry 

over their fat-laden counterparts of beef and pork. 

Changing the way you eat can seem daunting if you 

try to do everything at once. Instead, commit to making 

small, incremental changes that you can maintain. For 

example, if you are trying to eat less meat, commit to eating 

a vegetarian meal at least once a week until you are 

AND WELLNESS CENTRE 

• • • 

(649) 941-5252 

on site pharmacy 

located adjacent graceway gourmet 

Focused on the patient 

The way medicine should be practiced 


Exercise of any kind is a good way to defuse the tensions of life (and relieve excess aggression!) 

comfortable cooking that way and then you can increase 

the number of days you have a vegetarian dinner. Eating 

a healthy diet consists of variety, portion control (moderation), 

and being intentional about what you put into your 

body.” 

䨀愀渀甀愀爀礀 

㈀ 

琀栀 

㈀㤀㘀㨀 

倀爀漀甀搀猀甀瀀瀀漀爀琀攀爀漀昀 

—Tamika Handfield MS, RD, 

Founder, Nutrition In Demand 

䌀栀椀氀搀爀攀渀猀倀愀爀欀 Ⰰ 倀爀漀瘀椀搀攀渀挀椀愀氀攀猀 

吀甀爀欀猀 ☀ 䌀愀椀挀漀猀䤀猀氀愀渀搀猀 

䄀䴀 

䘀漀爀洀漀爀攀椀渀昀漀㨀 ⠀ 㘀㐀㤀 ⤀ 㐀㐀㈀ⴀアパート㤀㜀㠀簀渀甀琀爀椀琀椀漀渀椀渀搀攀洀愀渀搀䀀礀愀栀漀漀 ⸀ 挀漀洀 

簀洀漀瘀攀愀琀栀漀渀琀挀椀 ⸀ 挀漀洀 

Tamika gives some great advice. It’s about a lifestyle 

change, not crash dieting or starving yourself. Despite 

my rigorous training and watching my diet, I still had a 

few beers and a pizza at the weekend. However, I was 

conscious not to eat junk food all weekend (as I used to) 

but use it as “reward’ for a good week’s training. 

In my research I came across all sorts of weird diets. 

One that I did investigate was the Ketogenic Diet. This 

seems to be the “fad” diet at the moment, but I did follow 

it on a basic level—cut out carbs (found predominantly in 

processed foods), introduce more “good” fats, fish and 

vegetables and cook with butter and not processed vegetable 

oil. 

After some weeks, I found the excess weight falling 

off and I had more energy as I “de-toxed” into a healthy 

diet. Training became more habit than chore and when 

I couldn’t make the gym or a swim, I walked to work 

instead. I lost 32 pounds over 12 weeks (going from 220 

pounds to 188) and will look to continue to embrace a 

healthier lifestyle. It’s not hard to do, it’s simply a case of 

making good choices. a 

*Be sure to seek medical advice before undertaking any 

exercise regime or diet change. 

56 www.timespub.tc

The Toughest Foot Race in the World: 

Running for TCI charities 

Runners in the annual Marathon Des Sables will be attempting to complete the equivalent of six regular marathons in six days through 

the Sahara Desert. TCI adventurer John Galleymore will be competing from April 5–15, 2019 to raise money for several TCI charities. 

In April 2019, I will be departing the Turks & Caicos 

Islands and heading to Ouarzazate, Morocco and the 

infamous Sahara Desert for the Marathon Des Sables, 

named by the Discovery Channel as the “toughest footrace 

on Earth.” I will join a few hundred other crazy 

runners and we will attempt to run, walk, hobble and 

probably crawl the 160 miles (equivalent to six regular 

marathons) from start to finish. Each runner will have 

to carry all their kit and food for the week and we will 

sleep in basic open-sided tents set up each night by a 

local Bedouin tribe. Water is supplied at checkpoints 

along the route each day and is strictly rationed. 

The terrain is typical desert, just like the movies! 

Vast open desert interspersed with towering sand 

dunes, over which we need to run up to 20 miles a 

day, in temperatures exceeding 100ºF. To add to the 

“fun,” the organizers throw in a “double stage” which 

is over 50 miles and will take most people 20 hours or 

more to complete, which means running all day in the 

extreme heat, then continuing through the night when 

temperatures plummet to freezing. 

This will be a huge challenge, least of all as I just 

turned 50 this year, but others in life face daily challenges 

beyond their control. It’s for that reason that I 

will be running this race to raise funds for five charities, 

four of which are in the TCI. The UK-based charity, 

Weldmar Hospicecare, is the hospice where my loving 

aunt recently passed, having been diagnosed with cancer. 

I will be raising funds for the TCI Cancer Society in 

memory of her, along with Ashley’s Learning Center, 

the TCSPCA and the Iris Stubbs Primary School. 

I am trying to raise $15,000. and would welcome 

help from any resort, business or individual who is able 

to assist me. Thanks to all who have supported me so 

far, and especially those businesses who have donated 

including: Projetech, Grace Bay Club, Graceway IGA, 

Blue Kayak Fishing (South Caicos). a 

John Galleymore 

Please get in touch if you would like to know more or to 

donate: galleymorejohn@gmail.com or 649 232 7083. 

For more information on the Marathon Des Sables, visit 

marathondessables.com. 


astrolabe 

newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum 

front street, p.o. box 188, grand turk, turks & caicos islands, bwi 

tel 649 946 2160 • fax 649 946 2160 • email info@tcmuseum.org • web www.tcmuseum.org 

RA SHAW DESIGNS 

This drawing depicts architect Ron Shaw’s plans for a new Museum building in Providenciales. 

Plans for Provo Expansion 

By Dr. Michael P. Pateman, Museum Director, Turks & Caicos National Museum Foundation 

At the September meeting of our Board of Members and Directors, architect Ron Shaw presented plans 

for a new museum facility in Providenciales. This work was conducted pro bono and we are grateful that 

one of the TCI’s premier architects donated his time and talents for the growth and expansion of the 

museum. Inspiration for the design comes from the Bermudian architecture that is a prominent part 

of the landscape of the Turks Islands (particularly Grand Turk and Salt Cay) but is absent in the Caicos 

Islands. With a new design, we will launch a major fundraising campaign. 

58 www.timespub.tc

The Ron Shaw drawings above show what the new museum building on Providenciales would look like from the front and road sides (at left) 

and how the building would fit into the existing campus on Grace Bay. 

One of the most important reasons for a national 

museum’s existence is to preserve cultural identity—to 

help develop pride in who we are, particularly among the 

young people who may not know our stories and histories. 

While the museum on Grand Turk already serves 

this purpose, with the majority of the population and 

economic activity on Providenciales, the museum must 

expand its presence there if we seek to stay relevant in 

the national spotlight. 

A national museum on Providenciales can be an 

invaluable resource to all residents and visitors. Not only 

would it have a permanent exhibition space with areas 

dedicated to sectors of island life including art, history 

and the environment, but also include temporary exhibition 

spaces for special in-depth and traveling exhibits. 

This museum would include a gift shop and café to make 

the experience a pleasant one for visitors. Finally, it would 

have a resource center to encourage historical research. 

Such a place would function as both an educational 

and entertaining space in the Turks & Caicos community. 

The new museum gallery will be community-formed, 

community-driven and community-supported and be a 

genesis for cultural, heritage and historic research and 

revitalization of the Turks & Caicos Islands. 

The development of an expanded museum facility 

at our campus on Grace Bay does not signal our abandonment 

of Grand Turk. The National Museum remains 

committed to our location on our nation’s capital. 

While the focus of this introduction has been on the 

planned expansion in Providenciales, this issue features 

two unrelated projects on Grand Turk. In the first, Matt 

Williamson describes the beginnings (and future plans) 

for research on Over Island Cemetery. In the other, we 

learn about early photographers on Grand Turk from one 

of our long-time contributors Jeffrey Dodge. 

The history and heritage of the Turks & Caicos Islands 

is diverse, as our readers surely know. We will continue to 

make sure that diversity is highlighted in future editions 

of the Astrolabe and in our museum facilities. a 

Join the Museum 

Become a Member of the Turks & Caicos National 

Museum and receive a year’s subscription to Times 

of the Islands (which includes Astrolabe), free 

admission to the Museum and other benefits. 

Senior (62+) $35 

Individual $50 

Family/Friend $100 

Sponsor $250 

Contributor $500 

Partner $750 

We have several options for joining: 

• Visit the Museum at our Providenciales location at 

The Village at Grace Bay or our Grand Turk location 

in Guinep House on Front Street 

• Visit our website at 

www.tcmuseum.org/membership-support/. 

*For U.S. residents, support of the Museum may be tax-deductible 

if you join via Friends of the Turks & Caicos National 

Museum, our affiliated institution and registered 501 (c) (3). 

See our website for more details: 

www.tcmuseum.org. 

RA SHAW DESIGNS 


astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum 

This image shows Structure 2 in Grand Turk’s Over Island Graveyard, located in the center of Town Salina, before vegetation has been cleared. 

Morning in the Garden of 

Good and Evil 

Investigating Grand Turk’s Over Island Graveyard. 

Story & Photos By Matthew A. Williamson, Ph.D. 

My apologies to the author John Berendt, who penned the book Midnight in the Garden of Good and 

Evil, for only slightly changing his title for this article. I think it’s appropriate though, given the work 

that I do and where I live. You see, I am a bioarchaeologist and I teach at Georgia Southern University in 

Statesboro, Georgia, which is 50 miles northwest of Savannah—the city that provides the setting for Mr. 

Berendt’s book. As a frequent visitor to Savannah, I am well familiar with her attachment to the past and 

reverence for cemeteries (or “the garden” as Minerva calls it in the book). 

60 www.timespub.tc


A bioarchaeologist is someone who specializes in 

the study of prehistoric or historic period human skeletal 

remains for the purpose of learning things about their 

health and physical activity when they were living. This 

is possible because bone is made of living tissue. That 

comes as a surprise to many folks because we tend to 

think of bone as “dead” since it is mineralized. In fact, 

there are cells living within the rigid mineral and they can 

react and adapt to mechanical, disease and nutritional 

stress. 

In 1890, an anatomist named Julius Wolff discovered 

that bones can reinforce themselves in areas where 

they are subjected to stress. This principle has become 

known as “Wolff’s Law.” For example, when muscles pull 

on bones to create movement, they stimulate bone cells 

to lay down more mineral in order to strengthen the 

bone where the muscle attaches. This is why someone 

who is at risk for osteoporosis is advised to participate in 

weight-resistance exercise. Bigger muscles mean a stronger 

pull on the bone which results in thicker bones. At 

one 19th century cemetery where I was working, I uncovered 

the remains of two brothers, one with a more robust 

skeleton than the other. By applying what we know about 

how larger muscles mean larger muscle attachment 

sites, I concluded that one brother had a more physically 

demanding lifestyle than the other. This was justified 

when I found out later that the brother with the larger 

muscles had been a farmer. 

As you can imagine, I’ve spent a lot of time working 

in cemeteries in places like London, the midwest United 

States and all over Georgia, but bones aren’t the only 

things in a cemetery that can tell us something about the 

lives of its occupants. Grave markers, inscriptions and 

decorations offer insight on how the person wanted to 

be remembered or how their family wanted them remembered. 

Moreover, materials used for the grave marker 

can be a symbol of economic status and the location of 

the grave is often an indication of social status. In many 

churches around the world, the burial sites closest to the 

altar were reserved only for the most influential or the 

most holy. 

I first became interested in the Over Island Graveyard 

located in the center of the town salina on Grand Turk 

after I had heard about it from Dr. Donald Keith. My wife 

and I visited the Turks & Caicos Islands for the first time 

in 2014 and during that visit we stopped at the museum 

Anatomist Julius Wolff discovered that bones reinforce themselves in 

areas where they are subjected to stress. This principle is helpful to 

the study of bioarchaeology. 

on Providenciales. After a lovely tour given by the most 

friendly and knowledgeable manager, Candianne Williams, 

I was inspired to think about how I could get involved 

with the museum. Once I returned home, I started to educate 

myself about the prehistory and history of the TCI. 

I found several interesting books and monographs and 

discovered that the TCI has been the subject of archaeological 

and historical inquiry for many years by some 

excellent scholars. I then realized that something I had 

begun at the Georgia Southern University museum might 

also be of use to the TCI museum. It’s a monograph 

series that’s available free through our website. 

In archaeology, it’s common to get involved in projects 

that may not create enough data or be unique enough to 

warrant publication in a peer-reviewed scientific journal. 

Yet, the project or data may still have some significance 

to other archaeologists or scientists who are interested 

in the region or time period. I decided to present the 

idea to Dr. Keith that we could publish monographs that 

cover archaeology, history, natural history and culture of 

the Turks & Caicos Islands that anyone can access for 

free though the museum’s website. He accepted my offer 



with enthusiasm and so “The 

Occasional Papers of the Turks & 

Caicos Museum” began. 

As we discussed possible 

manuscripts for publication, 

he sent me what field notes, 

maps and photographs he 

had compiled of the “over-island 

graveyard.” Of course, this 

piqued my interest. In particular, 

I wanted to examine one tomb 

that was missing a large section 

of the cover making it possible 

to see down into the grave shaft. 

From the photograph, I wasn’t 

able to see any human remains 

or artifacts. However, it was clear 

that if there is ever any interest 

in identifying who is buried there, 

then whatever remains are in that 

grave must be recovered and protected 

as soon as possible. Continued exposure to the 

elements will only accelerate the bone decay which will 

render any attempt at extracting DNA impossible. 

Like the exposed tomb, it was evident that the entire 

graveyard has been abandoned. Many gravestones are 

missing and a couple of walls surrounding plots have 

collapsed. Inscriptions on the existing gravestones have 

completely eroded from the soft limestone over time and 

many headstones are missing. It’s impossible to determine 

who’s buried there if you’re going to use headstone 

inscriptions. There is a small ridge running through the 

graveyard that is eroding and has probably caused the 

destruction of at least two burial sites. In one area, the 

sand has disappeared to the point where there is a large 

hole within which you can see the bottom of a gravestone. 

A small herd of donkeys has taken up residence in 

and around the graveyard and they’ve created several 

trails between various areas. They are contributing to the 

graveyard’s decay as they trample fallen gravestones and 

structures. Lying on the ground along one of the donkey 

trails I found a small stone fragment that had a “W” carved 

into it and what is also probably an “F”. It wasn’t located 

anywhere near an obvious grave and there wasn’t enough 

remaining to determine for sure if it is part of a headstone. 

This is a large erosion hole found on the ridge at the Grand Turk Over Island Graveyard. Note the 

exposed bottom of the grave marker. 

This is the stone fragment with inscribed W and probable F that was 

found lying on the ground along one of the donkey trails. 

I decided that I wanted to help preserve the graveyard 

and so I put together a plan that builds on Dr. Keith’s 

work. (You can read about what he found in the Spring 

2013 Times of the Islands Astrolabe entitled “The Island 

Within the Island.”) Currently, there is no fence surrounding 

the graveyard so one goal is to determine its 

62 www.timespub.tc


boundaries. This requires removal of vegetation that has 

grown up and obscured most of the area. That will permit 

creating a map of each and every grave marker, tomb, 

wall and limestone block. 

Once the map is completed, then a search for 

unmarked graves can begin possibly through the use of 

ground penetrating radar. The “GPR” device is dragged 

along on a small sled as it transmits sound waves into 

the ground. As the waves are reflected back, a graphical 

readout of the soil density is created. Because grave 

shafts have been filled in with soil that is less dense than 

the surrounding, undisturbed soil it creates a distinct 

feedback signal that can be detected by the radar. There 

are caveats though—sometimes the feature turns out to 

be an anomaly or an old tree root. Moreover, it can’t produce 

a picture of a skeleton lying in the ground. Still, GPR 

devices can significantly reduce the time spent searching 

for graves even if occasionally the “hit” in the readout 

turns out to be nothing. 

After a complete map is created, decisions will need 

to be made regarding whether or not to construct a permanent 

fence, place signage including a historical marker 

explaining the graveyard’s history, and determining who 

will take care of graveyard maintenance. As Dr. Keith 

reported in his article, there is already an ordinance 

issued in 1861 that empowers commissioners to use 

funds from the public treasury to pay for maintenance! 

Another major issue to be resolved is whether or not 

the community supports the identification of who is buried 

in each grave. Unless a map of the cemetery can be 

found that shows each grave labeled with the occupant’s 

name, the only way to establish positive identification will 

be though DNA comparison. This would be a major undertaking 

because it would require excavation and reburial 

of each grave and many graves would be destroyed in the 

process. 

We do have a general idea of who is probably buried 

there. Former Museum Director Pat Saxton found death 

records from 1825 to 1835 that list at least 95 individuals 

buried “at the island” or “on the island” referring to 

the Over Island Graveyard. According to those records, 

adults, children, whites, blacks, slaves and freedmen 

are all buried there, with recognizable surnames like 

Lightbourne, Misick and Stubbs. 

Also among those buried is Reverend John Turtle, the 

second Methodist minister to be assigned to Grand Turk. 

(According to church records, Roger Moore was the first 

assigned to “Turks Island.”) Reverend Turtle was born 

in Ipswich, England on June 9, 1793. A conversation he 

had when he was 18 caused him to realize how he had 

neglected prayer in his life and motivated him “ . . . to 

break off my sins, desert my ungodly companions, and 

devote myself to his service.” After being ordained sometime 

during the following six years, he was appointed to 

the Bahamas by the Methodist Conference of 1817. He 

felt a strong call to serve as a missionary and so was quite 

excited about this new appointment as he left England on 

April 16, 1817. After 28 days at sea, he arrived in Nassau 

on May 14, 1818. Reverend Turtle then set about his 

duties of evangelization travelling the Eleuthera circuit 

on horseback, boat and occasionally walking up to 20 or 

more miles. According to one account, he developed a 

painful swelling in his legs causing him to be confined to 

his home. In 1819, after getting married, he visited Grand 

Turk for the first time. He continued to struggle with his 

health to the point where he could not fulfill an appointment 

to Jamaica and so he returned to the Bahamas. 

Reverend Turtle continued to preach in the Bahamas until 

his last appointment on Grand Turk, where he died presumably 

from consumption on August 16, 1825 at the 

age of 32. 

Dr. Michael Pateman was chosen as the new museum 

director around the time I was developing my plan to 

map the graveyard and, fortunately, he expressed his 

full support and offered his assistance moving forward. 

After an impromptu visit to Grand Turk in June to get 

an idea of how I would begin and with permission from 

the Department of Environmental and Cultural Resources 

(DECR), I gathered my gear and headed out for Grand 

Turk again in July 2018. 

I know that most archaeological fieldwork in the 

Islands is carried out in the fall, but I have a significant 

teaching load that forces me to conduct all of my work in 

the summer. However, I do live in Georgia so while I can’t 

say the heat doesn’t affect me at all, I am somewhat used 

to dealing with it. I decided I would focus my mapping 

efforts in the morning before the heat really cranked up. 

Using Dr. Keith’s map, I chose a burial feature consisting 

of one elevated tomb surrounded by a low wall. It was 

easy to spot since it was one of the few that was not completely 

overgrown. 

First, I had to establish a datum (which is a perma- 



Above: After a full day of clearing off the tomb and wall, this is the 

appearance of the graveyard’s Structure 2. 

Left: This shows the possible stucco found on the outside of a tomb 

and on the sides of a few plot walls. 

nent reference point that’s used for creating a grid and 

for measuring) by hammering a metal rod about a foot 

into the ground nearby. It was now time to begin removal 

of the overgrowth. I was equipped with pruning shears, 

a hand saw and branch clippers, but the vegetation was 

dense and the human-eating, devilishly thorned acacia 

bushes were not going to be dismissed without a fight! 

Fortunately, I was assisted by Vanessa Pateman, a graduate 

student in museum studies from the University of 

Western Illinois. Her hard work and enthusiasm was very 

much appreciated. I also want to thank Dr. Pateman for 

his help clearing the brush during one especially hot day. 

We spent the entire first day just clearing off the 

tomb and wall. The next day, we were able to set up a 

square using spikes at the corners and string to connect 

them. Vanessa and I took turns measuring the position 

of limestone blocks and the dimensions of the wall and 

tomb. Archaeologists use a grid to create a record of 

where artifacts are found and to permit reconstruction of 

the site in the report. The typical grid square size is one 

meter by one meter but it can be adjusted to fit the needs 

of the project. In our situation, a six by six meter square 

was the minimum size needed to enclose the wall around 

the plot. 

A total of five days in the “garden” was all I could 

spend on this trip, during which time Vanessa and I were 

able to map two grid squares. Dr. Keith estimated that 

the area of the graveyard is 2,000 square meters, so you 

can see that this project won’t be completed any time 

soon, but that’s typical in archaeology. I can’t say we 

made any discoveries that changed our understanding 

of the graveyard but there was one unexpected thing. I 

noticed a thin, white material on the outside of a tomb 

and on the sides of a few plot walls. It looks like it could 

be white stucco but I couldn’t be sure. If it was, it represents 

an additional cost above what was necessary to 

build a plain limestone box and would have gleamed a 

brilliant white in the TCI sun. On my last day, I walked the 

entire grounds and examined the open tomb I mentioned 

earlier. I couldn’t see any remains but it was obvious that 

it’s suffering from decay like the others. Now that I’m 

back at the university, my time is spent planning a return 

to the graveyard in July to continue adding to the map 

and doing whatever archival work I can to help us tell the 

story of the people buried there. a 

64 www.timespub.tc


This is a real photo postcard (RPPC) of a canal leading from the sea to salt ponds on Grand Turk in 1905. Both the photograph and the above 

postcard are attributed to Edmund N. Coverley. This same photograph was used again in 1905 to produce a machine printed postcard. 

EDMUND NEALE COVERLEY 

A Glimpse of the Past 

Early photographers on Grand Turk. 

By Jeffrey Dodge 

Edmund Neale Coverley, one of the most active early photographers on Grand Turk at the beginning of 

the 20th century, has been the subject of several past articles in the Astrolabe. He is well known because 

many of his photographs were used to produce early picture postcards. 

The earliest postcards attributed to Coverley were probably produced and printed by the photographer 

himself in his darkroom on photographic paper designed with a pre-printed postcard back. These real 

photo postcards (RPPC) were produced between 1904 and 1906. 




At least five picture postcards of scenes on Grand 

Turk were produced in 1904 by the British firm John 

Walker & Co. Ltd. from photographs taken by Edmund N. 

Coverley or possibly an unknown photographer—probably 

an itinerant photographer who traveled throughout 

the islands on behalf of this company for the sole purpose 

of taking photographs that the company would use 

to produce postcards they would then sell to island merchants. 

John Walker & Co. produced picture postcards 

of Bermuda, Nassau and Barbados as well as Grand Turk 

during this period. 

Although Coverley is the best known photographer 

on Grand Turk in the early 20th century, there were others. 

Some remain unknown, but two have been identified. 

In the 1920s, two residents of Grand Turk began photographing 

scenes on the island and turning some of their 

photographs into picture postcards. The photographers 

were John Copeland Crisson, a native of Grand Turk, and 

Robert O. Challis, a Londoner who moved to Grand Turk 

around 1925 in the employ of Imperial & International 

Communications, Ltd. 

John Copeland Crisson was born on Grand Turk in 

1864. He married Adelaid Spencer there in 1868 and 

they had two children, Charles Hayward and Herbert 

This family portrait pictures John Copeland Crisson, Mary Adelaid 

Spencer Crisson, Herbert, John (Jack), Frank and Elodie in Bermuda 

about 1910. 

Spencer. John C. Crisson was the editor and proprietor of 

the Weekly Record newspaper which he started in 1892. 

However, it was short-lived and ceased operating 18 

months later. It is not know what Crisson did prior to his 

work as a newspaperman. 

The Crisson family left Grand Turk for Bermuda about 

1896 where they had three more children, John “Jack” 

Ethelbert, Elodie Ophelia and Frank Noel. Exactly what 

John C. Crisson did while in Bermuda is uncertain, but it 

is documented that in 1907 he was first mate aboard the 

schooner Priscilla when it made a trip from Bermuda to 

Grand Turk to deliver a cargo of lumber and returned to 

Bermuda with a shipment of salt from South Caicos. John 

C. Crisson wrote and published the story of this journey, 

so it is possible he also wrote other articles or stories— 

possibly for newspapers. Descendants report that Crisson 

was involved in the salvage business while in Bermuda. 

When John Crisson returned to Grand Turk is uncertain, 

but it must have been before he became editor of 

The Chronicle and Dependency News in 1924. The government 

retaliated against the newspaper for critical 

articles it published, forcing it out of business in 1930. In 

addition to his newspaper work, Crisson made numerous 

voyages between Grand Turk and Jamaica on his ketch 

Kariette. Denis Murphy in his memoirs, My Years in The 

Sun: Island Memoirs, referred to uncle “Johnny” Crisson 

as a photographer and amateur boat builder. 

Most of the known John Copeland Crisson photographs 

are of the damage on Grand Turk caused by the 

hurricane of September 16, 1926. This storm, known as 

the Great Miami Hurricane, passed just 10 miles north 

of Grand Turk with winds of 150 mph. John Crisson captured 

the damage in a series of photographs. He used 

some to produce real photo postcards, probably printing 

them himself on Kodak AZO paper having a pre-printed 

postcard back. Some of these postcards he embossed 

with “Crisson Photo” on the lower right corner. It is not 

known how many photographs or postcards Crisson may 

have produced during his life. 

John Copeland Crisson was a ship’s captain, newspaper 

man, photographer and amateur shipwright. He could 

also play the violin and speak Spanish. John Copeland 

Crisson died and was buried on Grand Turk in 1939. His 

wife Mary died in 1944 and was buried in Bermuda—perhaps 

having moved there after her husband’s death to be 

near her daughter Elodie and son John “Jack” Crisson. 

66 www.timespub.tc



Top: This photo captures hurricane damage to a government office on Grand Turk in September 1926. (Notice “Crisson Photo” embossed in 

lower right corner.) 

Bottom: This image shows the schooner David Morris on the beach in Grand Turk after the hurricane of September 1926. 



Robert Ormond Challis was born in London, England 

in 1907. He left England around 1924 for Jamaica and 

Grand Turk as an employee of Imperial & International 

Communications Ltd (renamed Cable & Wireless Ltd. 

in 1934). He married Kathleen Mable Murphy on Grand 

Turk four years later. Kathleen was the sister of Denis 

H. Murphy, the author of My Years in the Sun: Island 

Memoirs. In addition to his work as a “cable engineer,” 

Robert Challis was a photographer and a member of the 

“Cables”—the Imperial & International Communications 

Ltd. soccer team. It is interesting to note that Robert’s 

father, Ormond E. Challis, was a recognized photographer 

in the United Kingdom and a member of the Royal 

Photographic Society. 

Most of the known Challis photographs were of general 

scenes around Grand Turk. For example, he took 

photographs of the salt ponds near Government Wharf, 

St. Mary’s Church, St. Thomas’ Church, the east side of 

Grand Turk, North Pond, “Little Bluff,” the cable office, 

etc. These were taken between 1925 and 1929. Challis 

used some of his photographs to produce postcards. 

Although the postcards were real photo postcards (RPPC), 

Challis didn’t print them himself. Instead, he sent his 

negatives to at least three different British firms to have 

postcards produced for him. Most of his postcards are 

only identifiable because Challis himself or a collector 

wrote Challis’ initials and the date on the back as well as 

a title identifying the scene pictured on the front. At least 

one of Challis’ photographs, titled “Sunset,” can be found 

in the collection of the National Archives UK. 

Robert O. Challis and his wife Kathleen had two 

children—daughter Lorna was born on Grand Turk in 

1931 and son David was born in Halifax, Nova Scotia 

in 1936—about two years after Cable and Wireless Ltd. 

transferred the family to Canada. It is possible that the 

Challis family moved back to Grand Turk in late 1938, 

but records confirming this are lacking. However there 

is photograph of Robert Challis taken on Grand Turk in 

1939 that was published in the Cable and Wireless staff 

magazine Zodiac. Sometime before 1947, the Challis family 

moved to Bermuda—possibly still employed by Cable 

and Wireless Ltd. Robert Challis died in 1959—his wife 

Kathleen passed away a year later—both are buried at St. 

Paul’s Church Cemetery in Paget Parish, Bermuda. Challis’ 

ROBERT ORMOND CHALLIS 

The Grand Turk Athletic Club and “Cables” (striped shirts) soccer teams pose on Boxing Day 1926. Robert O. Challis is on far right. 

68 www.timespub.tc


ROBERT ORMOND CHALLIS 

From top: Robert Challis photo-postcards of a coconut plantation at “Little Bluff” in 1926 and Grand Turk’s Government Wharf in 1927. 

photographs of his years in Canada and Bermuda have 

not been found and it is unknown whether or not he continued 

his interest in photography after leaving Grand 

Turk in 1934. a 

All of the photographs and postcards by John Crisson 

and Robert Challis known to the author were found in the 

collection of the Turks & Caicos National Museum. There 

are probably many more as yet identified photographs by 

these two men in private collections. 

The author would like to thank the following people 

for their helpful contributions to this article: Gwendolyn 

Crisson (related by marriage to John Copeland Crisson); 

Edward C. Harris, PhD, Bermuda Maritime Museum, 

Bermuda; Lisa Talbot, staff, Turks & Caicos National 

Museum. 



Museum matters 

History and Cultural Heritage Quiz 

The TCI celebrated Heritage Month 2018 under the 

theme, “Celebrating from whence we’ve come.” As part 

of the event, the Museum held its third annual History 

and Cultural Heritage Quiz for secondary schools on 

October 4, in collaboration with the government’s 

Departments of Culture and Education. 

Eight schools were competing for the Challenge 

Trophy, with last year’s winners, Raymond Gardiner 

High School, determined to take it back to North Caicos 

for another year. Also enticing was the first prize threeday 

trip to Jamaica to visit the UNESCO World Heritage 

sites of Blue and John Crow Mountain, museums, great 

houses and other historical and cultural heritage sites. 

The second place winners will spend the day immersed 

in history and cultural heritage on one of the Turks & 

Caicos Islands. 

Participating teams were from: HJ Robinson High 

School on Grand Turk; Marjorie Basden High School on 

South Caicos; Raymond Gardiner High School on North 

Caicos; and Long Bay High School, TCI Middle School, 

British West Indies Collegiate, Maranatha Academy and 

Holy Family Academy on Providenciales. 

In opening remarks, Hon. Karen Malcolm, Minister 

of Education, Culture, Library Services and Youth, said, 

“It is through our celebrations that we recognize the 

work done by our forefathers and the rich heritage legacies 

they have left for our enjoyment.” Hon. Premier 

Sharlene Cartwright Robinson shared her personal love 

of history and had words of congratulations for the 

Museum, collaborating government departments and 

sponsors of the event. 

For an hour, contestants wrote the answers to the 

questions put to them in quick succession by Semifinals 

Quizmaster Talisha Simons, Senior Director, Corporate 

Communications & Public Affairs at Fortis TCI Limited. 

HJ Robinson High School and Raymond Gardiner High 

School were the two schools who made it to the finals. 

Cheryl Forman, CEO of Peak Consulting Ltd., was 

the quizmaster for the keenly competitive and exciting 

finals. The judges—Director of Education Edward 

Howell, Director of Culture Ludwina Fulford, Museum 

Director Dr. Michael Pateman and Luc Clerveaux, 

The History and Cultural Heritage Quiz winning team from HJ 

Robinson High School displays their trophy, (from left) Edgar 

Howell, Ruth Forbes, Naethia Williams, Narisel Swann, Racquel 

Simons, Ludwina Fulford, Arissa Williams, Michael Pateman. 

Assistant Director Law and Enforcement, DECR—kept 

the anxious audience abreast of the points at the end 

of each round. In the end, HJ Robinson High School was 

the winner and the trophy will now spend the year in 

Grand Turk. 

Thank you to our sponsors: Fortis TCI, interCaribbean 

Airways, TC Reef Fund, Department of Education, 

Department of Culture, Turks & Caicos Taxi Association, 

British West Indies Collegiate, and the quizmasters, 

judges, facilitators, caterers and support teams. a 

Story & Photos By Candianne Williams 

Middle Caicos Heritage Month Event 

The Museum supported the Turks & Caicos National 

Trust with information for the informational signage on 

the Lucayans, the TCI’s first inhabitants. This signboard 

was unveiled at the Middle Caicos Heritage Month 

event held at the Conch Bar Caves under the theme, 

“Celebrating 1000+ years of history.” 

Museum Director Michael Pateman explains the new mobile 

Lucayan exhibit to onlookers in Middle Caicos. 

70 www.timespub.tc


Museum matters 

Dr. Michael Pateman gave a presentation about the 

lifestyle of the Lucayans using a specially created educational 

exhibit. The Lucayan exhibit kit is the first of 

a series of kits created by the Museum to enable us to 

facilitate the school groups that visit our locations. a 

Story & Photo By Candianne Williams 

Heritage Month School Visits 

A visit to the Museum was one of the ways students 

celebrated Heritage Month. We were happy to welcome 

students from: Holy Family Academy, Precious 

Treasures International School, Richmond Hill 

Preparatory School and Enid Capron Primary School at 

the museum in Grace Bay, Providenciales. Provo Middle 

School visited the Grand Turk Museum. 

After a tour of the Caicos Heritage House, one 

of the students told me that he learned that, in the 

past, nothing was wasted. The heritage tour guide had 

explained how the different parts of the corn—including 

the husks—were used back in the day. He was 

amazed at how folks were able to put the little they 

had to good use. a 

Story & Photo By Candianne Williams 

This group is “Team 1” on the South Bank archaeological dig. 

is developed. We also engaged in educational outreach 

and had student volunteers from British West Indies 

Collegiate and field visits from a number of private and 

public schools along with adult and homeschool volunteers 

from Provo residents and visitors. 

Windward Development Ltd., developer of the site, 

is a major project underwriter and is facilitating the 

scientific research. Additional funding support was provided 

by: TCI Reef Fund, the Anthropological Research 

Council and Sail Beluga. Supplies and logistical support 

were provided by TC Millwork and Blue Loos. a 

Museum Day Grand Turk 

On November 3, the Museum hosted a Museum Day 

community event on Grand Turk. Its purpose was to 

reintroduce residents to the Museum and to introduce 

new programming including the People of the 

Islands Oral History Project, a Community Mosaic and 

a monthly Children’s Club to begin in January 2019. 

The day could not have happened without the 

support of volunteers and sponsors: Carnival, Morris 

Cottingham, Blue Water Divers, Jack Shack, Oasis 

Divers, Turks Head Inne, Salt Raker, Digicel, Exclusive 

Escapes, White Sands Charters & Tours, Osprey Beach 

and Island Creations. a 

Story & Photos By Dr. Michael P. Pateman 

Students from Enid Capron Primary School visit the Museum’s 

Caicos Heritage House during National Heritage Month. 

South Bank Archaeological Dig 

The Museum partnered with Dr. Shaun Sullivan on 

an archaeological dig at the South Bank Site (P1) in 

Providenciales from October 15–27. The general 

objective of the project was to acquire and preserve 

information and artifacts from the site, reflecting a 

component of the TCI’s Lucayan culture before the site 

The Community Mosaic project was intriguing to many. 


food for thought 

Opposite page: Lorraine Kenlock, a.k.a. Chef Irie Dawta, has a lush backyard garden tucked into the heart of Providenciales. 

Above: The garden includes a huge variety of fresh, organic vegetables and herbs that she uses in her “farm to table” cooking. 

The Secret Garden 

Foodies are in for a unique experience at The Frenz Deck. 

Story & Photos By Dominique Rolle, Caya Hico Media 

Walking with my friend Lorraine Kenlock in her lush backyard garden, I feel transported from Grace Bay 

into the heartland of the Turks & Caicos—North Caicos—or perhaps Jamaica where such fantastic foliage 

is a common way of life. Lorraine hails from that island, and though she relocated here in 2003, the 

earthiness of her spirit and approach to life has not wilted. 


Chef Irie Dawta’s plants are like her children and she speaks to them with the love all good farmers bestow upon their seedlings. 

It is rare to find such a gardening enthusiast on 

Providenciales where flat, dry land has made the beaches 

the most celebrated the planet earth has to offer. 

However, behind the bustling tourism hub that is Grace 

Bay Road there lies an oasis nestled on a picturesque lake 

where ducks, flamingos and egrets frolic in peace, hidden 

away from the crowds. 

Bursting with life and overflowing with organic goodies, 

Kenlock’s garden ranges in surprises from tomatoes, 

peppers, bananas and spinach, to peppermint, okra, 

papaya, and pumpkin. Her plants are like her children 

and she speaks to them with the love all good farmers 

bestow upon their seedlings. With tenderness and care 

she waters, protects and ensures their growth. It is a 

hand-grown approach rarely applied to our modern food 

and an essential ingredient in the farm-to-table movement 

Kenlock is trailblazing here on Providenciales. 

Chef Irie Dawta and Lorraine Kenlock are technically 

the same person, but not really. Lorraine was an IT professional, 

educated in Japan as well as her native Jamaica, 

and previously confined to a corporate life drastically different 

from the culinary and creative environment the 

chef inspires on a daily basis. In 2011, the metamorphosis 

took place and Kenlock took on her new persona. It 

started as a made-to-order healthy (and mouth-wateringly 

delicious) salad business that quickly created a demand 

for her distinctive approach to food in the private chef 

villa market. It was there, facing the hurdles of entering 

the professional culinary industry that the legendary Chef 

Irie Dawta was born. 

Kenlock’s reputation as Ire Dawta precedes her. Just 

ask one of her devoted followers about the unparalleled 

dining experience she offers and even the haughtiest of 

foodies will be convinced before even trying her food. 

Still, seeing (or rather tasting) is believing. With many 

of us not quite in the private jet/private chef income 

bracket, Irie Dawta’s newest creation offers the perfect 

opportunity to experience her delights. 

The Frenz Deck, a uniquely personal dining experience 

set smack in the chef’s lush backyard, offers food 

enthusiasts the chance to dine at Kenlock’s home on the 

freshest organic food from her garden, sampling her 

inspiring creations whilst overlooking the quiet Grace Bay 

lake you didn’t even know existed. Ask Chef Irie Dawta 

about the experience she offers at the Frenz Deck and she 

might surprise you by insisting she prefers diners come 

with a sense of adventure, knowing that their well-being 

is going to be taken care of. She says, “Frenz Deck is 

for the adventurous, open-minded person who wants an 

experience that’s not bottled. Every experience on the 

74 www.timespub.tc

Above: The Frenz Deck is a personal dining experience in the chef’s lush Brew backyard. ad May 2017_Layout 1 5/11/17 10:51 AM Page 1 

Below: It offers food enthusiasts the chance to dine on Chef Irie Dawta’s inspiring creations. 

Turk’s Head Brewery 

Brewery Tours Monday-Friday 

11AM, 1PM, 3PM 

$15/pp 

Enjoy a complimentary selection of local craft beer 

after your tour! 

deck is different. Guests will have to go to our website to 

reserve a seat and pay a deposit. There’s one sitting per 

evening with only 10 seats, sometimes 14, so a deposit 

is always required.” 

You don’t need a menu for this incredible experience 

as Chef Irie Dawta does her homework prior to the 

evening (or afternoon) and follows where her artistic and 

culinary whims lead. Go off the beaten track and into the 

secret garden of one of the most exciting culinary minds 

the Turks & Caicos has to offer. Visit www.frenzdeckandiriesrest.com 

for more information. a 

Email tours@turksheadbeer.com 

Call 649.941.3637 x 1005 to book 

www.turksheadbrewery.tc 

52 Universal Dr. 

Providenciales, TCI 

TOUR TASTE SHOP 


about the Islands 

Map provided courtesy Wavey Line Publishing. Their navigation charts and decorative and historic maps of the Turks & Caicos Islands, the 

Bahamas, and Hispaniola are available in shops throughout the Islands. Visit www.waveylinepublishing.com. 

Where we are 

The Turks & Caicos Islands lie some 575 miles southeast 

of Miami — approximately 1 1/2 hours flying time — with 

the Bahamas about 30 miles to the northwest and the 

Dominican Republic some 100 miles to the southeast. 

The country consists of two island groups separated 

by the 22-mile wide Columbus Passage. To the west are 

the Caicos Islands: West Caicos, Providenciales, North 

Caicos, Middle Caicos, East Caicos, and South Caicos. To 

the east are the Turks Islands: Grand Turk and Salt Cay. 

The Turks & Caicos total 166 square miles of land 

area on eight islands and 40 small cays. The country’s 

population is approximately 40,000. 

Getting here 

There are international airports on Grand Turk, North 

Caicos, Providenciales, and South Caicos, with domestic 

airports on all of the islands except East Caicos. 

At this time, all of the major international carriers 

arrive and depart from Providenciales International 

Airport. American Airlines flies from Miami, Charlotte and 

New York/JFK. JetBlue Airways offers service from Fort 

Lauderdale, Boston and New York/JFK. Southwest Airlines 

travels to Fort Lauderdale. Delta Airlines flies from Atlanta 

and New York/JFK. WestJet travels from Toronto. Air 

Canada offer flights from Toronto. British Airways travels 

from London/Gatwick via Antigua. 

Bahamasair and InterCaribbean Airways fly to Nassau, 

76 www.timespub.tc

Bahamas. Flights to: Antigua; Dominica; Cap Haitien 

and Port Au Prince, Haiti; Kingston and Montego Bay, 

Jamaica; Miami, Florida; Puerto Plata and Santo Domingo, 

Dominican Republic; San Juan, Puerto Rico; St. Lucia; St. 

Maarten; Santiago, Cuba; and Tortola are available on 

InterCaribbean Airways, while Caicos Express travels to 

Cap Haitien daily. (Schedules are current as of November 

2018 and subject to change.) 

Inter-island service is provided by InterCaribbean 

Airways, Caicos Express Airways and Global Airways. Sea 

and air freight services operate from Florida. 

Language 

English. 

Time zone 

Eastern Standard Time (EST)/Daylight Savings Time 

observed. 

Currency 

The United States dollar. The Treasury also issues a Turks 

& Caicos crown and quarter. Travellers cheques in U.S. 

dollars are widely accepted and other currency can be 

changed at local banks. American Express, VISA, and 

MasterCard are welcomed at many locations. 

Climate 

The average year-round temperature is 83ºF (28ºC). The 

hottest months are September and October, when the 

temperature can reach 90 to 95ºF (33 to 35ºC). However, 

the consistent easterly trade winds temper the heat and 

keep life comfortable. 

Casual resort and leisure wear is accepted attire for 

daytime; light sweaters or jackets may be necessary on 

some breezy evenings. It’s wise to wear protective clothing 

and a sunhat and use waterproof sunscreen when out 

in the tropical sun. 

Entry requirements 

Passport. A valid onward or return ticket is also required. 

Customs formalities 

Visitors may bring in duty free for their own use one carton 

of cigarettes or cigars, one bottle of liquor or wine, 

and some perfume. The importation of all firearms including 

those charged with compressed air without prior 

approval in writing from the Commissioner of Police is 

strictly forbidden. Spear guns, Hawaiian slings, controlled 

drugs, and pornography are also illegal. 


Returning residents may bring in $400 worth of 

merchandise per person duty free. A duty of 10% to 

60% is charged on most imported goods along with a 

7% customs processing fee and forms a major source of 

government revenue. 

Transportation 

A valid driver’s license from home is suitable when renting 

vehicles. A government tax of 12% is levied on all 

rental contracts. (Insurance is extra.) Driving is on the 

left-hand side of the road, with traffic flow controlled by 

round-abouts at major junctions. Please don’t drink and 

drive! Taxis are abundant throughout the Islands and 

many resorts offer shuttle service between popular visitor 

areas. Scooter, motorcycle, and bicycle rentals are 

also available. 

Telecommunications 

FLOW Ltd. provides land lines and superfast broadband 

Internet service. Mobile service is on a LTE 4G network, 

including pre and post-paid cellular phones. Most resorts 

and some stores and restaurants offer wireless Internet 

connection. Digicel operates mobile networks, with 

a full suite of LTE 4G service. FLOW is the local carrier 

for CDMA roaming on US networks such as Verizon and 

Sprint. North American visitors with GSM cellular handsets 

and wireless accounts with AT&T or Cingular can 

arrange international roaming. 

Electricity 

120/240 volts, 60 Hz, suitable for all U.S. appliances. 

Departure tax 

US $20 for all persons two years and older, payable in 

cash or traveller’s cheques. It is typically built into the 

cost of your ticket. 

Courier service 

Delivery service is provided by FedEx, with offices on 

Providenciales and Grand Turk, and DHL. UPS service is 

limited to incoming delivery. 

Postal service 

The Post Office and Philatelic Bureau in Providenciales is 

located downtown in Butterfield Square. In Grand Turk, 

the Post Office is on Front Street, with the Philatelic 

Bureau on Church Folly. The Islands are known for their 

varied and colorful stamp issues. 

Media 

Multi-channel satellite television is received from the U.S. 

and Canada and transmitted via cable or over the air. 

Local station WIV-TV broadcasts on Channel 4 and Island 

EyeTV on Channel 5. People’s Television offers 75 digitally 

transmitted television stations, along with local news 

and talk shows on Channel 8. There are also a number of 

local radio stations, magazines, and newspapers. 

Medical services 

There are no endemic tropical diseases in TCI. There are 

large, modern hospitals on Grand Turk and Providenciales. 

Both hospitals offer a full range of services including: 

24/7 emergency room, operating theaters, diagnostic 

imaging, maternity suites, dialysis suites, blood bank, 

physiotherapy, and dentistry. 

In addition, several general practitioners operate in 

the country, and there is a recompression chamber, along 

with a number of private pharmacies. 

Immigration 

A resident’s permit is required to live in the Islands. A 

work permit and business license are also required to 

work and/or establish a business. These are generally 

granted to those offering skills, experience, and qualifications 

not widely available on the Islands. Priority is given 

to enterprises that will provide employment and training 

for T&C Islanders. 

Government/Legal system 

TCI is a British Crown colony. There is a Queen-appointed 

Governor, HE Dr. John Freeman. He presides over an executive 

council formed by the elected local government. 

Lady Sharlene Cartwright-Robinson is the country’s first 

woman premier, leading a majority People’s Democratic 

Movement (PDM) House of Assembly. 

The legal system is based upon English Common 

Law and administered by a resident Chief Justice, Chief 

Magistrate, and Deputy Magistrates. Judges of the Court 

of Appeal visit the Islands twice a year and there is a final 

Right of Appeal to Her Majesty’s Privy Council in London. 

Taxes 

There are currently no direct taxes on either income 

or capital for individuals or companies. There are no 

exchange controls. Indirect taxation comprises customs 

duties and fees, stamp duty, taxes on accommodations, 

restaurants, vehicle rentals, other services and gasoline, 

as well as business license fees and departure taxes. 

78 www.timespub.tc

Island Auto_Layout 1 12/12/17 12:49 PM Page 1 

Economy 

Historically, TCI’s economy relied on the export of salt. 

Currently, tourism, the offshore finance industry, and 

fishing generate the most private sector income. The 

Islands’ main exports are lobster and conch, with the 

world’s first commercial conch farm once operating on 

Providenciales. Practically all consumer goods and foodstuffs 

are imported. 

The Turks & Caicos Islands are recognised as an 

important offshore financial centre, offering services 

such as company formation, offshore insurance, banking, 

trusts, limited partnerships, and limited life companies. 

The Financial Services Commission regulates the industry 

and spearheads the development of offshore legislation. 

People 

Citizens of the Turks & Caicos Islands are termed 

“Belongers” and are primarily descendants of African 

slaves who were brought to the Islands to work on the 

salt ponds and cotton plantations. The country’s large 

expatriate population includes Canadians, Americans, 

Brits and Europeans, along with Haitians, Jamaicans, 

Dominicans, Bahamians, Indians, and Filipinos. 

Churches 

Churches are the center of community life and there 

are many faiths represented in the Islands, including: 

Adventist, Anglican, Assembly of God, Baha’i, 

Baptist, Catholic, Church of God of Prophecy, Episcopal, 

Faith Tabernacle Church of God, Jehovah’s Witnesses, 

Methodist and Pentecostal. Visitors are always welcome. 

Pets 

Incoming pets must have an import permit, veterinary 

health certificate, vaccination certificate, and lab test 

results to be submitted at the port of entry to obtain 

clearance from the TCI Department of Agriculture, Animal 

Health Services. 

National symbols 

The National Bird is the Brown pelican (Pelecanus occidentalis). 

The National Plant is Island heather (Limonium 

bahamense) found nowhere else in the world. The 

National Tree is the Caribbean pine (Pinus caribaea var. 

bahamensis). The National Costume consists of white cotton 

dresses tied at the waist for women and simple shirts 

and loose pants for men, with straw hats. Colors representing 

the various islands are displayed on the sleeves 

and bases. The National Song is “This Land of Ours,” by 

ISLAND AUTO RENTALS 

For Quality & Reliable Service 

& Competitive Prices 

The Cruise Center, Grand Turk 

Neville Adams 

Tel: (649) 946-2042 

Cell: (649) 232-0933 or (649) 231-4214 

Email: nevilleadams@hotmail.com 


Levoi Marshall 

Cell: (649) 441-6737 

Email: levoimarshall86@gmail.com 

Web: islandautorentalstci.com 

Project1_Layout 1 8/26/18 12:11 PM Page 1 

PyrateRadioTCI.com 

Mid-20th century radio pirates broadcast 

forbidden Rock-n-Roll, Soul, and Jazz from 

ships at sea or hidden locations ashore... 

Now, Pyrate Radio FM104.5 will rock the world 

again. Easy listening music from a salty 

seafaring lot. 

FM104.5 & streaming at www.PyrateRadioTCI.com 

Advertising Manager 649-431-7527 


Tom Rathgeb, a longtime photographer-contributor to Times of the Islands, has created a photo series of shells 

found on North Caicos beaches. They were shot using natural light with a Nikon D-3400 digital camera, and 

enhanced using Adobe Photoshop Elements to highlight their natural beauty. This shell is an Angular Triton 

(Cymatium femorale), a predatory sea snail, about three inches in length. Photo prints (8" x 10") are available 

for sale: $45 for a mounted, matted (11" x 14") print or $90 for a framed matted print, plus shipping. Direct 

inquiries to tom.rathgeb@gmail.com. 

the late Rev. E.C. Howell, PhD. Peas and Hominy (Grits) 

with Dry Conch is revered as symbolic island fare. 

Going green 

TCI Waste Disposal Services currently offers recycling services 

through weekly collection of recyclable aluminum, 

glass, and plastic. The TCI Environmental Club is spearheading 

a campaign to eliminate single-use plastic bags. 

Do your part by using a cloth bag whenever possible. 

Keep TCI “Beautiful by Nature” by not littering! 

Recreation 

Sporting activities are centered around the water. Visitors 

can choose from deep-sea, reef, or bonefishing, sailing, 

glass-bottom boat and semi-sub excursions, windsurfing, 

waterskiing, parasailing, sea kayaking, snorkelling, scuba 

diving, kiteboarding, stand up paddleboarding, and 

beachcombing. Pristine reefs, abundant marine life, and 

excellent visibility make TCI a world-class diving destination. 

Tennis and golf—there is an 18 hole championship 

course on Providenciales—are also popular. 

The Islands are an ecotourist’s paradise. Visitors can 

enjoy unspoilt wilderness and native flora and fauna in 33 

national parks, nature reserves, sanctuaries, and areas of 

historical interest. The National Trust provides trail guides 

to several hiking trails, as well as guided tours of major 

historical sites. There is an excellent national museum on 

Grand Turk, with an auxillary branch on Providenciales. A 

scheduled ferry and a selection of tour operators make it 

easy to take day trips to the outer islands. 

Other land-based activities include bicycling, horseback 

riding and football (soccer). Personal trainers are 

available to motivate you, working out of several fitness 

centres. You will also find a variety of spa and body treatment 

services. 

Nightlife includes local bands playing island music 

at bars and restaurants and some nightclubs. There is 

a casino on Providenciales, along with many electronic 

gaming parlours. Stargazing is extraordinary! 

Shoppers will find Caribbean paintings, T-shirts, 

sports and beachwear, and locally made handicrafts, 

including straw work and conch crafts. Duty free outlets 

sell liquor, jewellery, watches, perfume, leather goods, 

crystal, china, cameras, electronics, brand-name clothing 

and accessories, along with Cuban cigars. a 

80 www.timespub.tc

where to stay 

Grand Turk 

range of daily rates 

US$ (subject to change) 

number of units 

major credit cards 

restaurant 

bar 

air conditioning 

phone in unit 

television in unit 

kitchen in unit 

laundry service 

pool 

on the beach 

H 

The Arches of Grand Turk – Tel 649 946 2941 190–210 4 • • • • • • • 

Bohio Dive Resort – Tel 649 946 2135 • Web www.bohioresort.com 170–230 16 • • • • • • • • 

Crabtree Apartments – Tel 978 270 1698 • Web www.GrandTurkVacationRental.com 210–250 3 • • • • • • 

Manta House – Tel 649 946 1111 • Web www.grandturk-mantahouse.com 110–130 5 • • • • • • • 

Osprey Beach Hotel – Tel 649 946 2666 • Web www.ospreybeachhotel.com 90–225 37 • • • • • • • • • • 

Pelican House – Tel 649 246 6797 • Web www.pelicanhousegrandturk.com 110-130 3 • • • • • 

Salt Raker Inn – Tel 649 946 2260 • Web www.saltrakerinn.com 55–140 13 • • • • • • • 

Solomon Porches Guesthouse – Tel 649 946 2776/241 2937 • Fax 649 946 1984 75–100 3 • • 

Middle Caicos 

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Dragon Cay Resort at Mudjin Harbour – Tel 649 344 4997 • Web www.dragoncayresort.com 325 8 • • • • • • • • • 

North Caicos 

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Bottle Creek Lodge – Tel 649 946 7080 • Web www.bottlecreeklodge.com 155–240 3 • • 

Caicos Beach Condominiums – Tel 649 241 4778/786 338 9264 • Web www.caicosbeachcondos.com 159–299 8 • • • • • • • • 

Cedar Palms Suites – Tel 649 946 7113/649 244 4186 • Web www.oceanbeach.tc 250–300 3 • • • • • • • • • 

Flamingo’s Nest – Tel 649 946 7113/649 244 4186 • Web www.oceanbeach.tc 175–340 2 • • • • • • • • 

Hollywood Beach Suites - Tel 800 551 2256/649 231 1020 • Web www.hollywoodbeachsuites.com 200–235 4 • • • • • • 

JoAnne’s Bed & Breakfast - Tel 649 946 7301 • Web www.turksandcaicos.tc/joannesbnb 80–120 4 • • • • 

Palmetto Villa – Tel 649 946 7113/649 244 4186 • Web www.oceanbeach.tc 225–250 1 • • • • • • • • 

Pelican Beach Hotel - Tel 649 946 7112 • Web www.pelicanbeach.tc 125–165 14 • • • • • • • • 

Pine Cay 

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The Meridian Club - Tel 649 946 7758/866 286 7993 • Web www.meridianclub.com 800–1300 13 • • • • • • • 

Parrot Cay 

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COMO Parrot Cay Resort & Spa - Tel 649 946 7788/855 PARROTCAY • Web www.parrotcay.com 550–2850 65 • • • • • • • • • • 


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Airport Inn – Tel 649 941 3514 • Web www.airportinntci.com. 140 18 • • • • • • • 

The Alexandra Resort & Spa – Tel 800 704 9424/649 946 5807 • Web www.alexandraresort.com 280–420 99 • • • • • • • • • 

The Atrium Resort – Tel 888 592 7885/649 333 0101 • Web www.theatriumresorttci.com 159–410 30 • • • • • • • • 

Amanyara – Tel 866 941 8133/649 941 8133 • Web www.aman.com 1000–2100 73 • • • • • • • • 

Aquamarine Beach Houses – Tel 649 231 4535/905 556 0278 • www.aquamarinebeachhouses.com 200–850 24 • • • • • • • • 

Beaches Resort Villages & Spa – Tel 888-BEACHES/649 946 8000 • Web www.beaches.com 325–390AI 758 • • • • • • • • • 

Beach House Turks & Caicos – Tel 649 946 5800 • Web www.beachchousetci.com 532–638 21 • • • • • • • • • • 

BE Beach Enclave – Tel 888 434 3981 • Web www.beachenclave.com see web 24 • • • • • • • • 

Blue Haven Resort & Marina – Tel 855 832 7667/649 946 9900 • Web www.bluehaventci.com 250–650 51 • • • • • • • • • • 

Caribbean Paradise Inn – Tel 649 946 5020 • Web www.caribbeanparadiseinn.com 162–225 17 • • • • • • • • 

Club Med Turkoise – Tel 800 258 2633/649 946 5500 • Web www.clubmed.com 120–225 290 • • • • • • • • • 

Coral Gardens on Grace Bay – Tel 649 941 5497/800 787 9115 • Web www.coralgardensongracebay.com 199-449 32 • • • • • • • • • • 

Gansevoort Turks + Caicos – Tel 888 844 5986/649 941 7555 • Web www.gansevoorttc.com 315–720 91 • • • • • • • • • • 

Grace Bay Club - Tel 800 946 5757/649 946 5050 • Web www.gracebayclub.com 650–1750 75 • • • • • • • • • • 

Grace Bay Suites – Tel 649 941 7447 • Web www.GraceBaySuites.com 99–195 24 • • • • • • • • 

Harbour Club Villas – Tel 649 941 5748/305 434 8568 • Web www.harbourclubvillas.com 210–240 6 • • • • • 

The Inn at Grace Bay – Tel 649 432 8633 • Web www.innatgracebay.com 179–379 48 • • • • • • • 

Kokomo Botanical Gardens - Tel 649 941 3121• Web www.aliveandwellresorts.com 169–299 16 • • • • • 

Le Vele - Tel 649 941 8800/888 272 4406 • Web www.leveleresort.com 303–630 22 • • • • • • • • 

La Vista Azul – Tel 649 946 8522/866 519 9618 • Web www.lvaresort.com 215–375 78 • • • • • • • 

The Lodgings – Tel 649 941 8107/242 6722 • Web www.hotelturksandcaicos.com 175–255 15 • • • • • • 

Neptune Villas – Tel 649 331 4328 • Web www.neptunevillastci.com 150–400 10 • • • • • • • • • 

Northwest Point Resort • Tel 649 941 5133 • Web www.northwestpointresort.com 196–550 49 • • • • • • • • • • 

Ocean Club Resorts - Tel 800 457 8787/649 946 5880 • Web www.oceanclubresorts.com 180–690 191 • • • • • • • • • • 

The Palms Turks & Caicos – Tel 649 946 8666/866 877 7256 • Web thepalmstc.com 595–1700 72 • • • • • • • • • • 


where to stay 

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Providenciales (continued) 

Pelican Nest Villa – Tel 649 342 5731 • Web www.pelicannest.tc 429–857 2 • • • • • • 

Point Grace – Tel 649 946 5096/888 209 5582 • Web www.pointgrace.com 424–1515 27 • • • • • • • • • • 

Ports of Call Resort – Tel 888 678 3483/649 946 8888 • Web www.portsofcallresort.com 135–210 99 • • • • • • • 

Queen Angel Resort – Tel 649 941 8771 • Web www.queenangelresort.com 150–575 56 • • • • • • • • • 

Reef Residences at Grace Bay – Tel 800 532 8536 • Web www.reefresidence.com 275-385 24 • • • • • • • 

The Regent Grand – Tel 877 288 3206/649 941 7770 • Web www.theregentgrand.com 495–1100 50 • • • • • • • • • 

Royal West Indies Resort – Tel 800 332 4203/649 946 5004 • Web www.royalwestindies.com 180–695 92 • • • • • • • • • • 

The Sands at Grace Bay – Tel 877 777 2637/649 946 5199 • Web www.thesandsresort.com 175–675 116 • • • • • • • • • • 

Seven Stars Resort & Spa – Tel 866 570 7777/649 333 7777 – Web www.sevenstarsgracebay.com 365–2400 165 • • • • • • • • • • 

The Shore Club – Tel 649 339 8000 – Web www.theshoreclubtc.com 465–4650 148 • • • • • • • • • • 

Sibonné Beach Hotel – Tel 888 570 2861/649 946 5547 • Web www.sibonne.com 110–375 29 • • • • • • • • 

The Somerset on Grace Bay – Tel 649 339 5900/888 386 8770 • Web www.thesomerset.com 350–1300 53 • • • • • • • • • • 

The Tuscany – Tel 866 359 6466/649 941 4667 • Web www.thetuscanyresort.com 975–1300 30 • • • • • • • • 

The Venetian – Tel 877 277 4793/649 941 3512 • Web www.thevenetiangracebay.com 695–1175 27 • • • • • • • • 

Villa del Mar – Tel 877 345 4890/649 941 5160 • Web www.yourvilladelmar.com 190–440 42 • • • • • • • 

Villa Mani – Tel 649 431 4444 • Web www.villamanitci.com 6500–9500 8 • • • • • • • 

Villa Renaissance - Tel 649 431 8899 • Web www.villarenaissancebeachresort.com 295–650 36 • • • • • • • • • 

The Villas at Blue Mountain – Tel 649 941 4255 • Web www.villasatbluemountain.com 1200–2500 3 • • • • • • • • 

West Bay Club – Tel 855 749 5750/649 946 8550 • Web www.thewestbayclub.com 235–1163 46 • • • • • • • • • • 

Windsong – Tel 649 333 7700/800 WINDSONG • Web www.windsongresort.com 275–925 50 • • • • • • • • • 

range of daily rates 

US$ (subject to change) 

number of units 

major credit cards 

restaurant 

bar 

air conditioning 

phone in unit 

television in unit 

kitchen in unit 

laundry service 

pool 

on the beach 

Salt Cay 

Castaway – Salt Cay – Tel 772 713 9502 • Web www.castawayonsaltcay.com 175–265 4 • • • • • 

Genesis Beach House – Tel 561 502 0901 • Web www.Genesisbeachhouse.com 1000–1200W 4 • • • • • 

Pirate’s Hideaway B & B – Tel 800 289 5056/649 946 6909 • Web www.saltcay.tc 165–175 4 • • • • • • • 

Salt Cay Beach House – Tel 772 713 9502 • Web www.saltcaybeachhouse.blogspot.com 799W 1 • • • • • • 

Trade Winds Lodge – Tel 649 232 1009 • Web www.tradewinds.tc 925–1325W 5 • • • • • 

Twilight Zone Cottage – Tel 772 713 9502 • Web www.twilightzonecottage.blogspot.com 499W 1 • • • • 

The Villas of Salt Cay – Tel 772 713 9502 • Web www.villasofsaltcay.com 150–475 5 • • • • • • • • 

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South Caicos 

East Bay Resort – Tel 844 260 8328/649 232 6444 • Web eastbayresort.com 198–1775 86 • • • • • • • • • • 

Sailrock South Caicos – Tel 800 929 7197 • Web sailrockresortcom 600–800 6 • • • • • • • • • 

South Caicos Ocean & Beach Resort – Tel 877 774 5486/649 946 3219 

Web southcaicos.oceanandbeachresort.com 120–275 24 • • • • • 

Hotel & Tourism Association Member 

Green Globe Certified 

Rates (listed for doubles) do not include Government Accommodation Tax and Service Charge 

classified ads 

SCOOTER BOBS_Layout 1 8/8/18 10:57 AM Page GBC2017_Layout 1 2/16/17 9:10 AM Page 1 

HertzDollar_Layout 1 2/16/17 12:37 PM Page 1 

We’re here to 

make your holiday 

the island way... 

DEPENDABLE VEHICLE HIRE 

SERVICE OFFERED: 

Provo & North-Middle Caicos 

Office: 946-4684 

Amos: 441-2667 (after hours) 

Yan: 247-6755 (after hours) 

Bob: 231-0262 (after hours) 

scooterbobs@gmail.com 

www.scooterbobstci.com 

Grace Bay Road across from Regent Street 

Fun Friendly People 

Appreciating Your Business! 

941-8500 

www.gracebaycarrentals.com 

649.941.3910 649.946.4864 

Call Us. 

Whether it’s for the largest variety of 

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www.hertztci.com www.dollarcartci.com 

Open 8am to 5pm 7 days. 

After hours call 

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82 www.timespub.tc

classified ads 

Forbes Classified changes due_Layout 1 8/9/18 Pure 11:51 Bliss_Layout A 1 6/13/18 7:29 AM Page 1 

FORBES REALTY TCI 

Caicu Naniki_Caicu Naniki classified 8/9/18 12:05 PM Page 1 

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Find your dream property on North Caicos, 

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Touch of Bliss_Layout 1 8/9/18 11:59 AM Page 1 

rejouvenancespa.com 

www.ForbesRealtyTCI.com 

Sara Kaufman cell: 1-649-231-4884 

Ernest Forbes cell: 1-649-247-7599 

info@ForbesRealtyTCI.com 

Community Fellowship Centre 

EcoSeaSwimWinter 2018_Caicu A Life-Changing Naniki classified Experience 11/14/18 11:36 PM Page 1 

Sunday Divine Worship 9 AM 

Visitors Welcome! 

Tel: 649.941.3484 • Web: cfctci.com 

Phone: 649-242-3439 or 649-346-7344 

TC Email: Safari_Layout touchofbliss@rocketmail.com 

1 8/9/18 3:33 PM Page 1 

Newly located at Caribbean Place 

Swim Racing 

in Grace Bay 

PRIVATE TOURS TO 

“Race for the Conch” 

NORTH & MIDDLE CAICOS & 

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SWIM LESSONS & SWIM SAFARIS. 

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STAND-UP-PADDLEBOARD 

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Stop by Swim & Surf Store at 

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Project1_Layout www.caicunaniki.com 

1 11/27/18 10:34 PM Page 1Fiona_Layout w w w . 1 e c6/8/18 o s e a12:09 s w iPM m . cPage o m 1 

Vacation Villa Rentals 

Joanne Phillips, Turks & Caicos Safari 

www.tcsafari.tc 

Call: 1-904-491-1415 

Email: tcsafari@tciway.tc 

Brigitte ad Classified_Brigitte 8/25/17 11:50 AM Page 1 

JOHN GALLEYMORE 

Project Management 

Estate Management 

Homeowner Representation 

Concierge 

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compasstci@gmail.com 

1 (649) 232 7083 

COMPASS Ltd 

D&Bswift_Layout Home Owner Services 1 5/8/18 & Project 7:24 Management AM Page 1 

Skipper_Layout 1 2/16/17 11:36 PM Page 1 

Tangled Hair Salon 

Visit Hidden Treasures Boutique 

T&C Veterinary_Layout 1 8/9/18 2:02 PM Page 1 

Open 6 days per week 

Follow us on 

for cutting, styling and so much more 

Instagram 

Call 431 4247 (431 HAIR) 

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PORTS OF CALL PLAZA 

www.tangledhairsalonprovidenciales.com 

Salt Mills Plaza 

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Turks & Caicos Veterinary 

NEW Hours/Days 

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Monday thru Saturday 

9:00am - 12 noon 

Vet on duty Mon, Wed, Thur, Sat. 

Ocean 24 Breezy Breeze_Layout Ridge (649) 946 4353 1 11/14/18 11:07 PM Page 

Caring for your pet as though it 

were our own since 1981 Email: tcvets@tciway.tc 

FOR ALL YOUR 

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649-941-8438 and 649-241-4968 

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PROVIDENCIALES, 

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Find our products throughout the 

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dining out – providenciales 

Amanyara — Amanyara Resort. Tel: 941-8133. Light gourmet 

cuisine with menu changing daily. Open 6 to 10 PM. 

Angela’s Top O’ The Cove Deli — Suzie Turn, by NAPA. 

Tel: 946-4694. New York-style delicatessen. Eat-in, carry-out, 

catering. Open daily 7 AM to 5 PM; Sunday 7 AM to 2 PM. 

Asú on the Beach — Alexandra Resort. Tel: 941-8888. Casual 

Caribbean and popular international fare. Open daily for 7:30 

AM to 10:30 PM. Service indoors, poolside, and at beach. 

Baci Ristorante — Harbour Towne, Turtle Cove. Tel: 941-3044. 

Waterfront Italian dining. Brick oven pizza. Popular bar. Open 

for lunch Monday to Friday 12 to 2 PM and dinner nightly from 

6 to 10 PM. Closed Sunday. 

Bay Bistro — Sibonné Beach Hotel. Tel: 946-5396. Oceanfront 

dining featuring creative international cuisine. Open daily 

7 AM to 10 PM. Weekend brunch. Catering and special events. 

Beaches Resort & Spa — The Bight. Tel: 946-8000. 

All-inclusive resort. A variety of restaurants and bars on premises. 

Non-guests can purchase a pass. 

Bella Luna Ristorante — Glass House, Grace Bay Road. Tel: 

946-5214. Fine Italian dining. Indoor or terrace seating above 

tropical garden. Open daily from 5:30 PM. Closed Sunday. Lunch 

and pizza in the garden. Private catering available. 

Big Al’s Island Grill — Salt Mills Plaza. Tel: 941-3797. Wide 

selection of burgers, steaks, salads, and wraps in a diner-like 

setting. Open daily from 11 AM to 10 PM. 

Bugaloo’s Conch Crawl — Five Cays. Tel: 941-3863. Fresh 

local conch and seafood by the beach. Rum, buckets of beer, 

live local bands. Open daily from 11 AM to late. 

Cabana Beach Bar & Grill — Ocean Club. Tel: 946-5880. 

Casual island fare, burgers, salads, snacks. Open daily from 

7 AM to 10 PM. Tropical cocktails with a view of the sea. 

Caicos Bakery — Caicos Café Plaza. Authentic French boulangerie. 

Fresh-baked breads, rolls, croissants, muffins, quiche, 

pastries, cakes. Open 7 AM to 4:30 PM daily except Sunday. 

Caicos Café — Caicos Café Plaza. Tel: 946-5278. 

Mediterranean specialties, grilled local seafood. Fine wines, dining 

on the deck. Open 6 PM to 10 PM Monday to Saturday. 

The Caravel Restaurant — Grace Bay Court. Tel: 941-5330. 

Cozy restaurant offering island food with flair; famous for fish 

tacos. Full bar. Open daily 5 to 10 PM, closed Thursday. 

Chicken Chicken — Times Square, downtown Provo. Fast food, 

fried chicken, native fare. 

Chinson’s Grill Shack — Leeward Highway. Tel: 941-3533. 

The Islands’ best jerk and barbecue, Jamaican pastries. Open 

daily 8 AM to 10 PM; Friday to Midnight. 

Club Med — Grace Bay Road. Tel: 946-5500. All-inclusive 

resort. Buffet-style dining; live show and disco in the evenings. 

Non-guests can purchase a daily pass. 

Coco Bistro — Grace Bay Road. Tel: 946-5369. Continental 

Caribbean cuisine by Chef Stuart Gray under a canopy of palms. 

Serving dinner from 5:30 PM. Closed Monday. Look for the 

Cocovan airstream lounge with garden seating or take-away. 

Coconut Grove Restaurant & Lounge — Olympic Plaza, 

Downtown. Tel: 247-5610. Casual native fare for residents and 

tourists. Cracked conch, conch fritters, fried fish. Pool and game 

room. Open daily 11 AM to 10 PM. 

Coyaba Restaurant — Caribbean Paradise Inn. Tel: 946-5186. 

Contemporary Caribbean gourmet cuisine in a private tropical 

garden setting. Extensive wine list. Dinner nightly from 6 to 10 

PM. Closed Tuesday. Reservations recommended. 

Crackpot Kitchen — Ports of Call. Tel: 2313336. Experience 

the best of authentic Turks & Caicos and Caribbean cuisines 

with local celebrity Chef Nik. Open daily 5 to 10 PM except 

Thursday; Happy Hour 5 to 7 PM. 

Da Conch Shack & RumBar — Blue Hills. Tel: 946-8877. 

Island-fresh seafood from the ocean to your plate. Covered 

beachfront dining for lunch and dinner daily from 11 AM. 

Danny Buoy’s — Grace Bay Road. Tel: 946-5921. Traditional 

American pub fare; imported draught beers. Open for lunch and 

dinner daily from 11 AM. Happy Hour specials. Large screen TVs 

for sporting events. Karaoke. 

The Deck — Seven Stars Resort. Tel: 941-7777. All day dining 

and cocktails by the water’s edge. Open daily 11 AM to 11 PM. 

Live music Friday nights. 

Drift — West Bay Club. Tel: 946-8550. Open-air beachfront dining. 

Creatively used local ingredients. Full bar. Open daily. 

Dune — Windsong Resort. Tel: 333-7700. Private beachfront 

dining with limited availability. Fresh fare prepared to perfection. 

Open daily. 

El Catador Tapas & Bar — Regent Village. Tel: 244-1134. 

Authentic Spanish tapas with a wide mix of cold and hot plates 

meant for sharing. Fun and lively atmosphere. Open daily from 

5 PM. 

Element — LeVele Plaza. Tel: 348-6424. Contemporary, creative 

cuisine in an elegant setting. Open for dinner Friday to 

Wednesday 6:30 to 10:30 PM. 

Fairways Bar & Grill — Provo Golf Club. Tel: 946-5833. Dine 

overlooking the “greens.” Open for breakfast and lunch from 7 

AM to 4 PM daily; Friday, Saturday and Sunday open until 8 PM. 

Great Sunday brunch 9 AM to 3 PM. 

Fire & Ice — Blue Haven Resort & Marina. Tel: 946-9900. 

Drinks at the Ice Bar, dessert by the fire pits. South Americanmeets-Caribbean 

flavors and spices. Open daily 5:30 to 9:30 

PM. Closed Wednesday. 

Fresh Bakery & Bistro — Atrium Resort. Tel: 345-4745. 

Healthy European salads, soups, sandwiches, bakery, pies and 

cakes. Gelato. Open daily 7 AM to 6 PM, closed Sunday. 

Fresh Catch — Salt Mills Plaza. Tel: 243-3167. Authentic native 

cuisine, from seafood to souse. All-you-can-eat seafood buffet 

on Wednesday. Open daily 8 AM to 10 PM. Closed Sunday. 

Carry-out available. 

Garam Masala — Regent Village. Tel: 941-3292. Authentic 

Indian cuisine, tandoori charcoal-oven specialties. Open daily 

11:30 AM to 3 PM, 5:30 to 10 PM. Dine-in, take-out or delivery. 

Giggles Ice Cream & Candy Parlour — Ports of Call & 

Williams Storage. Tel: 941-7370. Cones, sundaes, shakes, 

smoothies, “Gigglers,” ice cream pies and cakes. Pick ‘n’ mix 

candies. Open daily 11 AM to 10 PM. 

Gilley’s Sky Lounge & Bar — At the airport. Tel: 946-4472. 

Burgers, sandwiches, local food. Open daily 6 AM to 9 PM. 

Grace’s Cottage — Point Grace Resort. Tel: 946-5096. 

Elegant, gourmet Caribbean cuisine showcasing regional foods. 

Extensive wine list. Gazebo seating under the stars or indoor 

dining in a romantic gingerbread cottage. Serving dinner from 

6 to 10 PM nightly. Reservations required. Native cuisine night 

on Tuesday with live music. 

84 www.timespub.tc

Grill Rouge — Grace Bay Club. Tel: 946-5050. Al fresco bistro. 

Diverse menu. Fun cocktails. Open daily for lunch Noon to 3 PM, 

dinner to 9 PM. 

Hemingways on the Beach — The Sands at Grace Bay. Tel: 

941-8408. Casual beachfront bar and restaurant. Fresh fish, 

pasta, sandwiches, salads and tropical drinks by the pool. 

Oceanfront deck for great sunsets! Open 8 AM to 10 PM daily. 

Hole in the Wall Restaurant & Bar — Williams Plaza, Old 

Airport Road. Tel: 941-4136. Authentic Jamaican/Island cuisine 

where the locals go. Full bar. A/C dining or outdoors on the 

deck. Open daily 7 AM to 9 PM. Pick-up/delivery available. 

Infiniti Restaurant & Raw Bar — Grace Bay Club. Tel: 946- 

5050. Elegant beachfront dining for lunch and dinner. Gourmet 

Euro/Caribbean cuisine; fine wines. Full bar and lounge. 

Reservations required. 

Island Raw — Le Petite Plaza. Tel: 346-5371. Vegan lifestyle 

kitchen, offering fresh, organic, raw, vegan, gourmet. Open 

Friday, Noon to 2 PM. 

Island Conch Bar & Grill — Bight Cultural Market. Tel: 946- 

8389. Caribbean and local cuisine. Open daily 11 AM to 9 PM. 

Island Scoop — Grace Bay Plaza. Tel: 242-8511/243-5051. 

21 flavors of ice cream made locally. Cones, smoothies, blizzards 

and shakes. Open daily, 11 AM to 10 PM. 

The Java Bar — Graceway Gourmet. Tel: 941-5000. Gourmet 

café serving fresh baked desserts, sandwiches and coffee 

delights. Open 7 AM to 8 PM daily. 

Jack’s Fountain — Across from Casablanca Casino. Tel: 946- 

5225. Seafood, steak, unique specialty items in a lively, relaxed 

“beach bar” atmosphere. Open 7 AM to 10 PM daily. 

Kalooki’s Grace Bay — Le Vele Plaza. Tel: 941-8388. The perfect 

mix of sweet and spicy Caribbean flavors. New location in 

Grace Bay. Open daily 11 AM to 10 PM. Closed Thursday. 

Kitchen 218 — Beach House, Lower Bight Road. Tel: 946-5800. 

Caribbean cuisine with hints of French and Asian fusion and the 

chef’s passion for fresh ingredients. Open 8 AM to 10 PM daily. 

The Landing Bar & Kitchen — Grace Bay Road across from 

Regent Village. Tel: 341-5856. Unique nautical setting for dinner 

under the stars. Cocktails, fire pit. Open daily except Tuesday 

5:30 to 10 PM. 

Las Brisas — Neptune Villas, Chalk Sound. Tel: 946-5306. 

Mediterranean/Caribbean cuisine with tapas, wine and full bar. 

Terrace and gazebo dining overlooking Chalk Sound. Open daily 

8 AM to 10 PM. Take-out available; private parties. 

Le Bouchon du Village — Regent Village. Tel: 946-5234. A 

taste of Paris. Sidewalk café with sandwiches, salads, tartines, 

tapas, dinner specials, wine, cheese, dessert, coffees. Open 

daily 11 AM. Closed Sunday. 

Le Comptoir Francais — Regent Village. Tel: 946-5234. 

French deli, bakery, wine shop. Open daily. 

Lemon 2 Go Coffee — Ventura House. Tel: 941-4069. 

Gourmet coffeehouse. Sandwiches, muffins, cookies, croissants, 

yogurt, salads. Open Monday to Saturday 7:30 AM to 7 PM, 

Sunday 9 AM to 1 PM. 

The Lounge — Grace Bay Club. Tel: 946-5050. Decidedly hip 

lounge. Caribbean-infused tapas, martinis, tropical cocktails, 

world music and the finest sunset location in Providenciales. 

Lupo — Regent Village. Tel: 431-5876. Authentic Italian 

“comfort food.” Regional wine list. Dine in or take out readymade 

gourmet meals. Open daily Noon to 3 PM; 6 to 10 PM. 

Magnolia Restaurant & Wine Bar — Miramar Resort. Tel: 

941-5108. International cuisine with island flavors, north shore 

views. Open for dinner from 6 to 9:30 PM except Monday. Wine 

bar opens at 4 PM. 

Mango Reef — Turtle Cove. Tel: 946-8200. Fresh local flavors 

and seafood, homemade desserts. Open daily 11 AM to 10 PM. 

Set price dinner on weekdays. Waterside deck, indoor or patio 

dining. Tie-up to dock at Turtle Cove Marina. 

Market Café — Blue Haven Resort. Tel: 946-9900. Gourmet 

coffees, teas, frozen drinks; fresh breads and pastries; grab ‘n’ 

go salads, sandwiches, smoothies. Open daily 7 AM to 8 PM. 

Mis Amigos Cocina Mexicana — Central Square. Tel: 946- 

4229. A variety of traditional Mexican fare, including salads and 

the best margaritas in town. Open daily. 

Mother’s Pizza — Downtown Times Square. Tel: 941-4142. 

Best pizza in the Turks & Caicos, available by the slice or the 

island’s biggest “large.” Open daily 11 AM to 9 PM; to 10 PM on 

Friday and Saturday; Noon to 8 PM on Sunday. 

Mr. Groupers — Lower Bight and Sunset Ridge Hotel (near airport). 

Tel: 242-6780. Serving fresh local seafood straight from 

the sea. Open daily 10 AM to 10:30 PM, Sunday 3 to 11 PM. 

Opus Wine • Bar • Grill — Ocean Club Plaza. Tel: 946-5885. 

International menu with Caribbean flair. Fresh seafood. Serving 

dinner nightly 6 to 10 PM. Indoor/outdoor dining. Conference 

facility, events, catering. 

Outback Steakhouse TCI — Regent Village. Unbeatable 

steak cuts complemented by chicken, ribs, seafood, and pasta. 

Generous portions, moderately priced, casual atmosphere. Open 

Monday to Thursday 3 to 11 PM; Friday to Midnight; Saturday 1 

PM to Midnight; Sunday 1 to 11 PM. 

Parallel23 — The Palms Turks & Caicos. Tel: 946-8666. Pantropical 

cuisine in a setting of casual elegance. Boutique wine 

list. Al fresco or private dining room available. Open daily 6 to 

10:30 PM. 

The Patty Place — Behind Shining Stars; Le Petit Place, Blue 

Hills. Tel: 246-9000. Authentic Jamaican patties and loaves. 18 

flavors of Devon House ice cream. Open daily 9:30 AM to 10 PM. 

Pavilion — The Somerset. Tel: 339-5900. Chef Brad offers a 

global palate, interpreted locally. Seafood raw bar. Open daily 

for breakfast, lunch, dinner; Sunday Prime Rib special. 

Pelican Bay Restaurant & Bar — Royal West Indies Resort. 

Tel: 941-2365/431-9101. Poolside restaurant and bar with 

Caribbean, French and Asian fare. Breakfast, lunch, dinner daily 

from 7:30 AM to 10 PM. Special events each week. 

Pepper Town Café — Digicel Cinema, #4. Tel: 246-9237. 

Native and Caribbean Dishes. Open daily except Sunday 11:30 

AM to 7 PM. Island breakfast on Saturday at 7 AM. 

Pizza Pizza — Grace Bay Plaza/Cinema Plaza. Tel: 941- 

8010/941-3577. New York style specialty pizzas. Open daily 

11:30 AM to 9:30 PM, weekends until 10 PM. Free delivery. 

Provence — Le Vele Plaza. Tel: 946-4124. Traditional French 

artisan-style cuisine. Fresh pasta, gelato, cheeses, charcuterie, 

pastries, desserts. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. 

Retreat Kitchen Vegetarian Café & Juice Bar — Ports of 

Call. Tel: 432-2485. Fresh, organic, vegan, vegetarian, gluten-free 

fare. Fresh juices, daily lunch specials. Open for lunch 

Monday to Saturday, 9 AM to 3 PM. Delivery available. 

Rickie’s Flamingo Café — Between Ocean Club and Club Med. 

Tel: 244-3231. Local fare and atmosphere right on the beach. 

Best grouper sandwich and rum punch! Don’t miss Curry Fridays 

and Beach BBQ Saturdays. 

Salt Bar & Grill — Blue Haven Resort & Marina. Tel: 946-9900. 

Outdoor seating overlooking the marina. Sandwiches, burgers, 


salads, classic bar favorites. Open daily 11:30 AM to 9:30 PM. 

Seven — Seven Stars Resort. Tel: 339-7777. Elevated contemporary 

cuisine fused with TCI tradition. Open Monday to Saturday, 

5:30 to 9:30 PM. 

72ºWest — The Palms Turks & Caicos. Tel: 946-8666. 

Beachside dining with a family-friendly, Caribbean-inspired 

menu. Serving lunch daily; dinner seasonally. 

Sharkbite Bar & Grill — Admiral’s Club at Turtle Cove. Tel: 

941-5090. Varied menu; casual dining. Sports bar/slots. Open 

daily from 11 AM to 2 AM. 

Shay Café — Le Vele Plaza. Tel: 331-6349. Offering organic 

coffees, teas, sandwiches, salads, soup, pastries, gelato, sorbetto, 

smoothies, beer and wine. Open daily 7 AM to 7 PM. 

Simone’s Bar & Grill — La Vista Azul. Tel: 331-3031. Serving 

fresh seafood and local cuisine. Open daily 11 AM to 11 PM; 

weekends 7 AM to 11 PM. Popular bar! 

Skull Rock Cantina — Ports of Call. Tel: 941-4173. The place 

for Tex-Mex; daily drink specials. Open daily, 8 AM to Midnight. 

Solana! Restaurant — Ocean Club West. Tel: 946-5254. 

Oceanfront dining from sushi to burgers. Teppanyaki and Sushi 

Bar, engage with the chefs. Open daily 7:30 AM to 10 PM. 

Somewhere Café & Lounge — Coral Gardens Resort. Tel: 

941-8260. Casual dining with Tex-Mex flair right on the beach. 

Cocktails, beers, specialty drinks. Open early to late daily. 

Stelle — Gansevoort Turks + Caicos. Tel: 232-4444. Modern 

Mediterranean cuisine featuring fresh fish and seafood. Open 6 

to 10 PM daily, until 2 AM on Friday with DJ. 

Sui-Ren — The Shore Club. Tel: 339-8000. Inspired flavors of 

Peruvian-Japanese fusion cuisine with fresh seafood and organic 

produce in a unique setting. Open daily. 

Thai Orchid — The Regent Village. Tel: 946-4491. Authentic 

Thai cuisine; over 60 choices! Dine in or carry out. Open for 

lunch and dinner daily. 

Three Brothers Restaurant — Town Center Mall, Downtown. 

Tel: 232-4736. Seafood and native cuisine. Tuesday night buffet 

dinner. Catering services. Open daily, 7 AM to 10 PM. 

Tiki Hut Island Eatery — Dockside at Turtle Cove Inn. Tel: 

941-5341. Imaginative sandwiches, salads, seafood, Black 

Angus beef, pasta, pizzas, fish. Open daily 11 AM to 10 PM. 

Turkberry Frozen Yogurt — The Saltmills. Tel: 431-2233. 

Frozen yogurt in a variety of flavors, with a large selection of 

toppings. Custom donut bar. Open 11 AM to 11 PM daily. 

Turks Kebab — At Craft Market on Sand Castle Drive. Tel: 431- 

9964. Turkish and Mediterranean fare. Salads, falafel, gyros, 

kebabs, hummus. Open for lunch and dinner. 

Via Veneto — Ports of Call. Tel: 941-2372. Authentic Italian 

dining in a stylish indoor/outdoor venue. Open from 5:30 PM to 

late. Closed Thursday. Saturday is Pizza Night! 

The Vix Asian Bistro & Grill — Regent Village. Tel: 941-4144. 

Contemporary Asian menu with a wok station, dim sum, vegan 

specialties and keto dishes. Open daily 7:30 AM to 3 PM; 5 to 

9:45 PM. Delivery to select locations. Catering menus. 

Yoshi’s Sushi & Grill — The Saltmills. Tel: 941-3374/431- 

0012. Sushi bar menu plus Japanese cuisine. Open daily Noon 

to 3 PM; 6 to 10 PM. Closed Sunday. Dine indoors or out. Carry 

out available. 

Zest! — Gansevoort Turks + Caicos. Tel: 232-4444. Lunch and 

dinner beachfront. Taste of the Caribbean and Americas. Open 

daily Noon to 5 PM; 6 to 9 PM. Fisherman’s night Wednesday. a 

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MEET OUR NEWEST INNOVATION 

We are driving towards an exciting energy future! 

FortisTCI proudly introduces our Nissan Leaf Electric Vehicle (EV) and Charging Station. . .a pilot project to 

support our environmentally sustainable energy solutions for the Turks and Caicos Islands. 

To learn more about this EV pilot project and our renewable energy programs, email us at: 

renewableenergy@fortistci.com 

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Times of the Islands Winter 2018/19

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