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Times of the Islands Winter 2018/19

Presents the "soul of the Turks & Caicos Islands" with in-depth features about local people, culture, history, environment, businesses, resorts, restaurants and activities.

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TIMES<br />

OF THE<br />

SAMPLING THE SOUL OF THE TURKS & CAICOS ISLANDS WINTER <strong>2018</strong>/<strong>19</strong> NO. 125<br />

SAILING TO FREEDOM<br />

Sloops Aid Slave Escapes<br />

THE LAST STAND?<br />

East Caicos Reefs<br />

MAGNIFICENT MAUBY<br />

The National Tonic<br />

ISLANDS


H O W D O YO U L I K E Y O U R L U X U R Y ?<br />

EFFORTLESS? OR BRILLIANTLY UNCONVENTIONAL?<br />

THE SHORE CLUB<br />

THE SHORE CLUB<br />

THE PALMS<br />

THE PALMS<br />

THE SHORE CLUB<br />

The refined sophistication <strong>of</strong> The Palms on Grace Bay<br />

Beach, consistently honored by travel publications<br />

for its sense <strong>of</strong> elegance and easy atmosphere. The<br />

savvy chic <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Shore Club, <strong>the</strong> stunning new gamechanger<br />

on Long Bay Beach. Where whimsy rules and<br />

magic awaits around every corner. Each with a style<br />

and a vibe all its own. Both singular destinations, part<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Hartling Group’s stellar portfolio <strong>of</strong> luxury resorts<br />

which also includes The Sands at Grace Bay. Your call.<br />

THE COOL SIDE OF CLASSIC<br />

649.946.8666<br />

<strong>the</strong>palmstc.com<br />

WRITE YOUR STORY HERE<br />

649.339.8000<br />

<strong>the</strong>shoreclubtc.com


TURKS & CAICOS<br />

Generation<br />

Everyone<br />

Everything’s Included for Everyone!<br />

2017<br />

2017<br />

More Quality<br />

Inclusions than<br />

any o<strong>the</strong>r Resorts<br />

in <strong>the</strong> World<br />

At Beaches ® Turks & Caicos, everyone can create <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

own perfect vacation. For some, it’s <strong>the</strong> white-sand<br />

beaches and calm waters featuring unlimited land and<br />

water sports. For o<strong>the</strong>rs, it’s <strong>the</strong> awesome 45,000 sq.<br />

ft. waterpark with surf simulator. There’s 5-Star Global<br />

Gourmet TM dining at 21 incredible restaurants, and<br />

non-stop bars and entertainment —and it’s always<br />

included. Even <strong>the</strong> tips, taxes, and Beaches transfers*.<br />

We’ve even added trend-setting food trucks, new live<br />

entertainment, and re-styled accommodations<br />

… making <strong>the</strong> World’s Best even better for<br />

Generation Everyone.<br />

BEACHES.COM in <strong>the</strong> U.S. & Canada: 1-800-BEACHES<br />

In <strong>the</strong> Caribbean: 1-888-BEACHES; In Turks & Caicos 649-946-8000<br />

@beachesresorts<br />

WORLD’S BEST ALL-INCLUSIVE FAMILY RESORTS<br />

20<br />

YEARS IN A ROW AT THE WORLD TRAVEL AWARDS<br />

*Airport transfers included. O<strong>the</strong>r transfers may be additional. Beaches ® is a registered trademark. Unique Vacations, Inc., is an affiliate <strong>of</strong> Unique Travel Corp., <strong>the</strong> worldwide representative <strong>of</strong> Beaches Resorts.


contents<br />

Departments<br />

6 From <strong>the</strong> Editor<br />

13 Eye on <strong>the</strong> Sky<br />

From Fluffy Cotton to Terrifying Towers:<br />

Low Cloud Formation<br />

By Paul Wilkerson<br />

18 Around <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong><br />

Kids First!<br />

Edward C. Gartland Youth Centre<br />

By Ka<strong>the</strong>rine Wi<strong>the</strong>rs Green<br />

50 The Sporting Life<br />

Fit at Fifty<br />

By John Galleymore<br />

Photos By Brilliant Studios<br />

72 Food for Thought<br />

The Secret Garden<br />

The Frenz Deck<br />

By Dominique Rolle–Caya Hico Media<br />

76 About <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>/TCI Map<br />

81 Where to Stay<br />

82 Classified Ads<br />

84 Dining Out<br />

86 Subscription Form<br />

Features<br />

22 Magnificent Mauby<br />

TCI’s National Tonic<br />

Story & Photos By B Naqqi Manco<br />

38 Sailing to Freedom<br />

TCI Slave Escapes in <strong>the</strong> 1800s<br />

By Ben Stubenberg<br />

TIMES<br />

OF THE<br />

ISLANDS<br />

SAMPLING THE SOUL OF THE TURKS & CAICOS ISLANDS WINTER <strong>2018</strong>/<strong>19</strong> NO. 125<br />

On <strong>the</strong> Cover<br />

Photographer Marta Morton spends a lot <strong>of</strong> time looking<br />

up and out, when she’s not busy running Harbour<br />

Club Villas (www.HarbourClubVillas.com) with her<br />

husband Barry and son Michael. More <strong>of</strong>ten than not,<br />

she takes <strong>the</strong> occasion to pull out her small Canon<br />

SX720HS “point and shoot” camera (with a great 40X<br />

optical zoom) and photograph <strong>the</strong> beauty she sees<br />

around her. In this case, it was a lovely early <strong>Winter</strong><br />

sunset over Grace Bay Beach, with <strong>the</strong> high cirrus<br />

clouds tracing a fea<strong>the</strong>ry pattern in <strong>the</strong> sky. For more<br />

<strong>of</strong> her exceptional photography, turn <strong>the</strong> pages <strong>of</strong> this<br />

issue.<br />

Green Pages<br />

28 Hope for TCI’s Future<br />

East Caicos Reefs<br />

By Kathleen Wood, Don Stark and<br />

Marsha Pardee<br />

33 Ban <strong>the</strong> Bag<br />

By Amy Avenant<br />

34 Battle <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Reefs<br />

By John DeBuysser and Heidi Hertler<br />

72<br />

Astrolabe<br />

60 Morning in <strong>the</strong> Garden <strong>of</strong> Good and Evil<br />

Story & Photos By Mat<strong>the</strong>w A. Williamson<br />

65 A Glimpse <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Past<br />

By Jeffrey Dodge<br />

DOMINIQUE ROLLE—CAYA HICO MEDIA<br />

4 www.timespub.tc


TurksAndCaicosProperty.com<br />

Babalua Beachfront Villa - Cascade<br />

Cascade is an ultra luxury 6 bedroom/6 and a half bathroom beachfront villa in Providenciales<br />

recently completed in 2015 by RA Shaw Designs. The villa is an architectural gem with one <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> most splendid private pools in <strong>the</strong> country. A top performing vacation villa and a mustsee<br />

luxury Turks and Caicos property for a savvy investor looking for strong rental returns.<br />

US$7,200,000<br />

Long Bay Beachfront Land<br />

Buyers looking to build on a prime parcel <strong>of</strong> beachfront land, look no fur<strong>the</strong>r. This sizeable 1.10-<br />

acre Long Bay lot with 80 ft. <strong>of</strong> beach frontage is an absolutely perfect spot. Located on <strong>the</strong><br />

very popular Long Bay Beach with many o<strong>the</strong>r high-end luxury villas as well as small upscale<br />

residential developments. An ideal luxury vacation villa site and an excellent investment property.<br />

US$1,600,000<br />

Bernadette Hunt<br />

Cell ~ 649 231 4029 | Tel ~ 649 941 3361<br />

Bernadette@TurksAndCaicosProperty.com<br />

Bernadette has lived in <strong>the</strong> Turks and Caicos<br />

<strong>Islands</strong> for over 21 years and witnessed <strong>the</strong><br />

development and transition <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> islands<br />

into a significant tourist destination. Based<br />

on independent figures her gross transaction<br />

numbers are unrivalled. Bernadette has<br />

listings on Providenciales, Parrot Cay,<br />

North and Middle Caicos and is delighted<br />

to work with sellers and buyers <strong>of</strong> homes,<br />

condos, commercial real estate and vacant<br />

undeveloped sites.<br />

Turks and Caicos Property is <strong>the</strong> leading<br />

independent real estate firm in <strong>the</strong> Turks and<br />

Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> with <strong>of</strong>fices located at Ocean<br />

Club West Plaza, Ocean Club West Resort<br />

and Le Vele Plaza on <strong>the</strong> Grace Bay Road.<br />

Bernadette’s reputation and success has been<br />

earned over time through her dedication,<br />

enthusiasm and passion for real estate. Her<br />

personal experience as having practiced law<br />

in <strong>the</strong> islands for more than 10 years toge<strong>the</strong>r<br />

with owning and renovating a number <strong>of</strong><br />

properties means she is well-placed to advise<br />

her customers and developers on what to<br />

anticipate in <strong>the</strong> purchasing and construction<br />

process.<br />

Bernadette delights in working in <strong>the</strong> real<br />

estate industry and her humor and energy<br />

make her a pleasure to work with.<br />

Grace Bay Beachfront - Point Grace<br />

Point Grace is one <strong>of</strong> few boutique hotels in Turks & Caicos and <strong>of</strong>fers both luxury and exclusivity<br />

nestled at “<strong>the</strong> Point” <strong>of</strong> Grace Bay Beach. Suite E202 is 1,551 sq. ft. and is located beachfront on <strong>the</strong><br />

second floor. The condo is a two bed two and two and a half bath split level suite. It also features a<br />

spacious terrace overlooking <strong>the</strong> stunning turquoise water <strong>of</strong> Grace Bay and is an exceptional value.<br />

Please contact Bernadette if you would like<br />

to find out more about owning real estate in<br />

<strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />

US$1,295,000


from <strong>the</strong> editor<br />

MARTA MORTON—WWW.HARBOURCLUBVILLAS.COM<br />

This landscape overlooking South Side Marina on Providenciales shows how sunlight paints a picture in <strong>the</strong> sky at <strong>the</strong> end <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> day.<br />

Let There Be Light<br />

This year, <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> went back to observing Daylight Savings Time, after a two-year hiatus meant to extend<br />

<strong>the</strong> early evening sunlight for visitors and residents. With <strong>the</strong> time change, comes my annual hibernation to an early<br />

bedtime as <strong>the</strong> darkness sets in, unwelcome because I am a certified lover <strong>of</strong> light, especially sunlight. Thankfully,<br />

<strong>the</strong> late fall/winter season brings an astonishing quality to <strong>the</strong> light in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>—so achingly beautiful<br />

at times that it seems a preview <strong>of</strong> heaven. Mornings begin with a rose-pink glow in <strong>the</strong> east that blooms into<br />

a shimmering, clear brilliance lasting well into mid-day. As afternoon sets in, <strong>the</strong> scene begins to melt into a tawny<br />

golden glow from which it is nearly impossible to look away.<br />

I hope you’ll find in this issue plenty <strong>of</strong> illumination for your mind, body and soul in <strong>the</strong> eclectic mix <strong>of</strong> stories<br />

and photos, ranging from a discussion <strong>of</strong> clouds, to <strong>the</strong> importance <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> East Caicos reefs, to a fascinating study<br />

<strong>of</strong> slave escapes and <strong>the</strong> Caicos Sloop, to a new dining experience for foodies.<br />

Christmas is, for me, a time <strong>of</strong> great joy as we celebrate <strong>the</strong> True Light—Jesus Christ—entering our world to<br />

bring <strong>the</strong> love, grace and salvation we all so desperately need. To God be <strong>the</strong> Glory for His daily help, strength and<br />

comfort.<br />

Kathy Borsuk, Editor<br />

timespub@tciway.tc • (649) 946-4788<br />

6 www.timespub.tc


FOR SALE - TURNKEY VACATION<br />

RENTAL BUSINESS - STRATA<br />

CORPORATION - 4 TOWNHOMES<br />

- 1.53 ACRES IN GRACE BAY -<br />

APPROVED PLANS FOR<br />

EXPANSION - $2.3 MILLION<br />

Four quality built air conditioned<br />

townhomes with high-end finishes<br />

and appliances.<br />

Each home has 2 bedrooms and 2.5<br />

bathrooms, 1600 sq. ft., with large<br />

screened poolside patio.<br />

Current owners live on <strong>the</strong> island and<br />

will be available to help with your<br />

transition into this turnkey vacation<br />

rental business.<br />

Planning approved for 3 more<br />

buildings comprised <strong>of</strong> twelve 2<br />

bedroom homes and a second pool.<br />

CONTACT US NOW! Find out how to step into this ongoing, successful business with an excellent<br />

rental history, in <strong>the</strong> best location, in <strong>the</strong> heart <strong>of</strong> Grace Bay, Sunshine Crescent, a short five-minute<br />

walk to world-famous Grace Bay Beach.<br />

Contact <strong>the</strong> owners at - TCI 649-941-7440 - USA +1-972-747-7575<br />

relax@GraceBayTownhomes.com - www.GraceBayTownhomes.com


FIVE DISTINCT VILLAGES<br />

TO CHOOSE FROM<br />

1. Key West Village 2. Italian Village<br />

2017<br />

2017<br />

THE WORLD’S BEST<br />

IS NOW BETTER THAN EVER<br />

BEACHES VOTED WORLD’S LEADING ALL-INCLUSIVE FAMILY RESORTS<br />

20<br />

YEARS IN A ROW AT THE WORLD TRAVEL AWARDS<br />

Beaches, waterparks, pools—<strong>the</strong>re’s<br />

something for everyone.<br />

MORE QUALITY INCLUSIONS THAN ANY OTHER RESORTS IN THE WORLD


3. Caribbean Village 4. French Village 5. Seaside Village<br />

WHERE EVERYTHING’S<br />

INCLUDED FOR EVERYONE<br />

At Beaches ® Turks & Caicos, everyone can create <strong>the</strong>ir own perfect day. For some, it’s <strong>the</strong><br />

white-sand beaches and calm waters featuring land and water sports. For o<strong>the</strong>rs, it’s <strong>the</strong><br />

awesome 45,000 sq. ft. waterpark with surf simulator. There’s 5-Star Global Gourmet TM<br />

dining at 21 incredible restaurants, and non-stop bars and entertainment —and it’s always<br />

included—tips, taxes and Beaches transfers*, too. We’ve even added trend-setting food trucks,<br />

new live entertainment, and re-styled accommodations … making <strong>the</strong> World’s Best even better.<br />

*Visit www.beaches.com/disclaimers/times<strong>of</strong><strong>the</strong>islandswinter<strong>2018</strong> or call 1-800-SANDALS for important terms and conditions.<br />

Hang out with some real<br />

characters at Beaches.<br />

Discover a whole world <strong>of</strong> cuisine with<br />

5-Star Global Gourmet dining.<br />

BEACHES.COM • In <strong>the</strong> U.S. and Canada: 1-800-BEACHES;<br />

In <strong>the</strong> Caribbean: 1-888-BEACHES; In Turks & Caicos: 649-946-8000 or call your Travel Pr<strong>of</strong>essional


TM/© 2017 Sesame Workshop<br />

THE WORLD’S BEST IS<br />

BETTER<br />

BEACHES VOTED WORLD’S BEST<br />

20<br />

YEARS IN A ROW AT THE WORLD TRAVEL AWARDS<br />

Beaches ® Turks & Caicos has held <strong>the</strong> top spot at <strong>the</strong> World Travel<br />

Awards for two decades by <strong>of</strong>fering families more <strong>of</strong> everything<br />

on <strong>the</strong> world’s best beach. Every land and water sport, an<br />

awe-inspiring waterpark with surf simulator, 5-Star Global<br />

For more information, visit BEACHES.COM<br />

In <strong>the</strong> U.S. and Canada: 1-800-BEACHES;<br />

In <strong>the</strong> Caribbean: 1-888-BEACHES;<br />

Gourmet TM dining at 21 incredible restaurants, and non-stop bars<br />

and entertainment — always included. And now we’ve added<br />

trend-setting food trucks, new live entertainment, and restyled<br />

accommodations … making <strong>the</strong> World’s Best even better.<br />

In Turks & Caicos:649-946-8000<br />

or call your Travel Pr<strong>of</strong>essional<br />

TIPS, TAXES AND BEACHES TRANSFERS* INCLUDED<br />

MORE QUALITY INCLUSIONS THAN ANY OTHER RESORTS IN THE WORLD


Five Distinct Villages<br />

to Choose From<br />

1. Key West Village 2. Italian Village 3. Caribbean Village 4. French Village 5. Seaside Village<br />

THANEVER<br />

Beaches Turks & Caicos<br />

is on <strong>the</strong> world’s<br />

#1 BEST BEACH<br />

by tripadvisor ®<br />

*Visit www.beaches.com/disclaimers/times<strong>of</strong><strong>the</strong>islandswinter<strong>2018</strong>btc or call 1-800-BEACHES for important terms and conditions.


PG advert_Layout 1 5/10/17 9:10 AM Page 1<br />

TIMES<br />

MANAGING EDITOR<br />

Kathy Borsuk<br />

OF THE<br />

ISLANDS<br />

ADVERTISING MANAGER<br />

Claire Parrish<br />

“Escape to <strong>the</strong> extraordinary.”<br />

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS<br />

Amy Avenant, Kathy Borsuk, John DeBuysser,<br />

Jeffrey Dodge, John Galleymore, Ka<strong>the</strong>rine Wi<strong>the</strong>rs Green,<br />

Heidi Hertler, B Naqqi Manco, Marsha Pardee,<br />

Dr. Michael P. Pateman, Dominique Rolle–Caya Hico Media,<br />

Don Stark, Ben Stubenberg, Paul Wilkerson,<br />

Candianne Williams, Mat<strong>the</strong>w A. Williamson,<br />

Kathleen Wood.<br />

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS<br />

Brilliant Studios, Robert Ormond Challis, E. Neale Coverley–<br />

TCNM Collection, John DeBuysser, Edward C. Gartland<br />

Youth Centre, Richard Green, Heidi Hertler, Agile LeVin,<br />

B Naqqi Manco, Marta Morton, Michael Morton,<br />

Dr. Michael P. Pateman, Tom Rathgeb, Dominique Rolle–<br />

Caya Hico Media, Mat<strong>the</strong>w Slattery, David M. Stone,<br />

Ben Stubenberg, Paul Wilkerson, Candianne Williams,<br />

Mat<strong>the</strong>w A. Williamson.<br />

CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS<br />

NOAA, RA Shaw Designs, Wavey Line Publishing<br />

PRINTING<br />

sou<strong>the</strong>astern, Hialeah, FL<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> ISSN 1017-6853 is<br />

published quarterly by <strong>Times</strong> Publications Ltd.<br />

Copyright © 20<strong>19</strong> by <strong>Times</strong> Publications Ltd. All rights reserved<br />

under Universal and Pan American Copyright Conventions.<br />

No part <strong>of</strong> this publication may be<br />

reproduced without written permission.<br />

Subscriptions $28/year; $32/year for<br />

non-U.S. mailing addresses<br />

Submissions We welcome submission <strong>of</strong> articles or photography, but<br />

assume no responsibility for care and return <strong>of</strong> unsolicited material.<br />

Return postage must accompany material if it is to be returned. In no<br />

event shall any writer or photographer subject this magazine to any<br />

claim for holding fees or damage charges on unsolicited material.<br />

While every care has been taken in <strong>the</strong> compilation and reproduction <strong>of</strong><br />

information contained herein to ensure correctness, such information is<br />

subject to change without notice. The publisher accepts no<br />

responsibility for such alterations or for typographical or o<strong>the</strong>r errors.<br />

WORLD TRAVEL AWARDS 2015 - CARIBBEAN’S LEADING BOUTIQUE HOTEL<br />

TCHTA STAR AWARDS 2016 - HOTEL OF THE YEAR<br />

TCHTA STAR AWARDS 2016 - RESTAURANT OF THE YEAR - GRACE’S COTTAGE<br />

PROVIDENCIALES TCI • US TOLL FREE 1.888.209.5582 • T 649.946.5096<br />

RESERVATIONS@POINTGRACE.COM • WWW.POINTGRACE.COM<br />

Business Office<br />

<strong>Times</strong> Publications Ltd., P.O. Box 234,<br />

Lucille Lightbourne Building #1,<br />

Providenciales, Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>, BWI<br />

Tel/Fax 649 946 4788<br />

Advertising 649 431 7527<br />

E-mail timespub@tciway.tc<br />

Web: www.timespub.tc<br />

12 www.timespub.tc


eye on <strong>the</strong> sky<br />

PAUL WILKERSON<br />

These low clouds seem to be tracing <strong>the</strong> path <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> causeway between North and Middle Caicos.<br />

Clouds are both loved and hated. For travelers to <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>, it generally invokes worry<br />

over <strong>the</strong> prospects <strong>of</strong> rain and lack <strong>of</strong> sun-bathing time. For Belongers, it usually is a much different story.<br />

Clouds are welcomed for <strong>the</strong> shade <strong>the</strong>y bring on a sweltering day, <strong>the</strong> beauty <strong>the</strong>y <strong>of</strong>fer when contrasted<br />

against <strong>the</strong> electric-blue waters surrounding <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>, and <strong>the</strong> promise <strong>of</strong> rain that is such a lifeline to<br />

residents <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se small islands. Without <strong>the</strong>se whimsical wisps <strong>of</strong> moisture, <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> would be uninhabitable—a<br />

dry and arid environment with little in <strong>the</strong> way <strong>of</strong> ground cover. It would be a challenge <strong>of</strong><br />

survival for <strong>the</strong> toughest <strong>of</strong> land species.<br />

From Fluffy Cotton<br />

to Terrifying Towers<br />

How are low clouds formed?<br />

By Paul Wilkerson<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2018</strong>/<strong>19</strong> 13


MARTA MORTON—WWW.HARBOURCLUBVILLAS.COM<br />

Above: These cloud images were shot overlooking Flamingo Lake in Providenciales.<br />

Below: This image <strong>of</strong> an Arcus shelf cloud was captured from <strong>the</strong> deck at Harbour Club Villas. Note <strong>the</strong> characteristic rising cloud motion in<br />

<strong>the</strong> leading part, while <strong>the</strong> underside appears turbulent.<br />

But how do <strong>the</strong>se clouds form, and why do <strong>the</strong>y tend<br />

to form over some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> same areas day after day across<br />

<strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>? To understand how this happens, we need<br />

to first understand <strong>the</strong> “whats” (atmosphere and geography<br />

requirements) before we get into <strong>the</strong> “hows” (actual<br />

formation <strong>of</strong> clouds), and <strong>the</strong> “when” (likely times to see<br />

<strong>the</strong>se clouds form).<br />

Let’s take a look at <strong>the</strong> “whats” first. The Turks &<br />

Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> are completely surrounded by <strong>the</strong> Atlantic<br />

Ocean. In general, high pressure exists over areas that are<br />

cooler (water) than adjacent areas (land). Low pressure<br />

generally exists over <strong>the</strong> warmest areas (land) surrounded<br />

by cooler areas (water). For <strong>the</strong> TCI, <strong>the</strong> waters in general<br />

are cooler than <strong>the</strong> land mass during <strong>the</strong> day, while at<br />

night <strong>the</strong> water generally is a bit warmer than <strong>the</strong> land.<br />

So during <strong>the</strong> day, low pressure typically exists over <strong>the</strong><br />

<strong>Islands</strong> (rising air), and at night, high pressure is usually<br />

situated over <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> (sinking air). This scenario plays<br />

out during calmer wea<strong>the</strong>r periods.<br />

It is also important to understand that winds will gen-<br />

MICHAEL MORTON—WWW.HARBOURCLUBVILLAS.COM<br />

14 www.timespub.tc


This image explains <strong>the</strong> concepts <strong>of</strong> sea breeze and cloud formation.<br />

erally blow from high pressure towards lower pressure,<br />

which during <strong>the</strong> day is from <strong>the</strong> ocean to <strong>the</strong> land. At<br />

night, we normally see <strong>the</strong> reverse situation—winds blowing<br />

from land out to sea.<br />

One final factor that will play into cloud formation<br />

has to do with <strong>the</strong> amount <strong>of</strong> moisture in <strong>the</strong> air. And<br />

we know based on geographic location that <strong>the</strong>re is an<br />

abundance <strong>of</strong> moisture in <strong>the</strong> atmosphere generally at all<br />

times over <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />

Now let’s discuss <strong>the</strong> “hows” <strong>of</strong> cloud formation.<br />

Clouds are a conglomeration <strong>of</strong> trillions and trillions <strong>of</strong><br />

molecules <strong>of</strong> water vapor. Generally unseen to <strong>the</strong> naked<br />

eye, yet felt on <strong>the</strong> skin as humidity, water vapor once<br />

compacted into large areas reveals itself as clouds.<br />

How is it we see <strong>the</strong>se clouds? In <strong>the</strong> Caribbean, we<br />

can thank <strong>the</strong> salt in <strong>the</strong> ocean for this! In order to see<br />

clouds, we depend on what is called Cloud Condensation<br />

Nuclei, abbreviated as CCN. These are particles <strong>of</strong> dust,<br />

salt, pollution, and even sand from <strong>the</strong> Saharan Desert.<br />

Water vapor by nature, will need something to condense<br />

to in order for us to see it visibly. These CCN stick to<br />

water vapor, which is <strong>the</strong> single most important item we<br />

need for cloud formation. For <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>, salt water evaporates<br />

<strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> surface <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ocean and rises into <strong>the</strong> air<br />

as <strong>the</strong> CCN needed. However in order to see <strong>the</strong>se as<br />

clouds we need something else to occur.<br />

During <strong>the</strong> day, as <strong>the</strong> land heats up and low pressure<br />

develops over <strong>the</strong> land, <strong>the</strong> warm air rises in convective<br />

currents <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> hot ground into <strong>the</strong> air above <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />

As <strong>the</strong> winds blow <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> water and arrive on land, <strong>the</strong>y<br />

get naturally deflected up as <strong>the</strong>y encounter topography<br />

and <strong>the</strong> much warmer air that is also rising. As this wind<br />

and air rises, it naturally begins to cool once again. And<br />

as that air cools, it also condenses. Those trillions <strong>of</strong><br />

molecules <strong>of</strong> water vapor become visible as tiny water<br />

droplets. And in mass, <strong>the</strong>y are visible as <strong>the</strong> fluffy white<br />

clouds we see across <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />

If you would like to see this in action on a smaller<br />

scale, boil a pot <strong>of</strong> water on <strong>the</strong> stove. As <strong>the</strong> water boils,<br />

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<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2018</strong>/<strong>19</strong> 15


MARTA MORTON—WWW.HARBOURCLUBVILLAS.COM<br />

In <strong>the</strong> TCI, our fair wea<strong>the</strong>r clouds will form like clockwork, usually during <strong>the</strong> morning and throughout <strong>the</strong> primary heating <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> day.<br />

steam snakes <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> surface <strong>of</strong> that water into <strong>the</strong> air<br />

above <strong>the</strong> pot. That water is evaporating into <strong>the</strong> cooler<br />

air <strong>of</strong> your home and <strong>the</strong>n condensing into visible streaks HarbourPaul Club:Layout Wilkerson 1 is 8/17/16 an American 10:16meteorologist AM Page 1 and tourist<br />

who frequents <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>. Along <strong>of</strong> steam . . . small clouds!<br />

with<br />

To wrap up <strong>the</strong> concept, we need to talk about <strong>the</strong><br />

“when.” Have you noticed that, in general, at night in <strong>the</strong><br />

<strong>Islands</strong> it clears up <strong>the</strong> later it gets? If <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> are dominated<br />

by fair wea<strong>the</strong>r overall, this will happen nearly on a<br />

nightly basis. At night <strong>the</strong> land cools more than <strong>the</strong> water.<br />

Because <strong>of</strong> this, air sinks over <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> and inhibits<br />

cloud formation in general. Our fair wea<strong>the</strong>r clouds will<br />

form like clockwork, usually during <strong>the</strong> morning and<br />

throughout <strong>the</strong> primary heating <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> day. This cycle will<br />

continue daily until <strong>the</strong>re is significant high pressure over<br />

<strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> that can suppress this process through <strong>the</strong><br />

process <strong>of</strong> sinking air. Or, if <strong>the</strong>re is significant low pressure<br />

close to <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>the</strong>se beautiful balls <strong>of</strong> cotton<br />

can turn into towering menaces that produce lightning<br />

and thunder through <strong>the</strong> process <strong>of</strong> significant rising air.<br />

Clouds are one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most fascinating wonders on<br />

earth. Next time you are on-island, you likely will catch a<br />

mesmerizing reflection <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ocean on <strong>the</strong> bottom <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

clouds. In those moments, reflect on <strong>the</strong> amazing world<br />

16 www.timespub.tc<br />

we live in and how Mo<strong>the</strong>r Nature takes care <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> people<br />

that depend on her. a<br />

his wife and two daughters, <strong>the</strong> Wilkersons stay actively<br />

engaged with Islanders throughout <strong>the</strong> year with his<br />

Facebook page Turks and Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> Wea<strong>the</strong>r Info.<br />

Harbour Club Villas<br />

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<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2018</strong>/<strong>19</strong> 17


18 www.timespub.tc


around <strong>the</strong> islands<br />

These photo collages show <strong>the</strong> huge variety <strong>of</strong> activities that TCI children and teens participate in at <strong>the</strong> Edward C. Gartland Youth Centre.<br />

Kids First!<br />

Edward C. Gartland Youth Centre celebrates a decade <strong>of</strong> caring about kids.<br />

By Ka<strong>the</strong>rine Wi<strong>the</strong>rs Green ~ Photos Courtesy Edward C. Gartland Youth Centre<br />

In November 2008, <strong>the</strong> Edward C. Gartland Youth Centre opened its doors to <strong>the</strong> young people <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

Turks & Caicos, becoming <strong>the</strong> first teen-orientated facility in <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>. The brainchild <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> AIDS<br />

Awareness Foundation, this intrepid project started as a safe haven, a spot to engage our youth with afterschool<br />

activities and community outreach projects, and a way to get kids moving, thinking and caring.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2018</strong>/<strong>19</strong> <strong>19</strong>


I remember as a child growing up in <strong>the</strong> TCI how<br />

important education and information became in <strong>the</strong> fight<br />

against HIV. On paper <strong>the</strong> Edward C. Gartland Youth<br />

Centre (ECGYC) ticked all <strong>the</strong> right boxes—stamping<br />

out stigma and misinformation, creating a secure place<br />

for young people to participate in, learn about and create<br />

safe relationships with <strong>the</strong>ir peers—but <strong>the</strong> reality<br />

became so much more than this. Now celebrating its<br />

tenth successful year, <strong>the</strong> ECGYC has become one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

most essential parts <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> TCI community, and an indispensable<br />

resource for <strong>the</strong> young people <strong>of</strong> our <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />

What began with after-school tutoring, arts and<br />

crafts and beach clean-up days has grown to encompass<br />

15 different term-time programs, as well as more than<br />

20 summer camps ranging from music to maths clubs,<br />

cultural dance, water-based eco-camps, self-defense and<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir extremely successful basketball camp—to name but<br />

a few! The Centre is a roaring community success story.<br />

The amazing team behind its creation and <strong>the</strong> hard-working<br />

people who continue to bring incredible opportunities<br />

to our children are truly <strong>the</strong> heroes <strong>of</strong> today, supporting<br />

<strong>the</strong> fact that TCI’s most important resource is our youth.<br />

In celebration <strong>of</strong> a decade’s worth <strong>of</strong> love and effort,<br />

I asked <strong>the</strong> Edward C. Gartland Youth Centre staff, led by<br />

Director Roxann Wake-Forbes, what stories <strong>the</strong>y’d most<br />

like to highlight so that readers could learn more about<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir work. Unsurprisingly, <strong>the</strong>y gave us <strong>the</strong> names <strong>of</strong> a<br />

couple <strong>of</strong> kids—now all grown-up —who attended ECGYC<br />

Food for Thought is a new charity set up to provide<br />

daily breakfast to government school students –<br />

starting with <strong>the</strong> primary schools in North Caicos,<br />

Middle Caicos, South Caicos and Salt Cay.<br />

We estimate that just $200 will allow us to provide<br />

breakfast to one child for a whole school year.<br />

If you would like to donate or learn more please<br />

email foodforthoughttci@gmail.com<br />

or visit our website foodforthoughttci.com<br />

and have flourished into awesome community members.<br />

Sometimes it’s easy to forget that when you attend<br />

a fundraiser, watch a school dance recital or donate<br />

to a silent auction, on <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r side <strong>of</strong> that gesture is<br />

a child who will perhaps get that much closer to <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

dream. From passing an important exam at school, to<br />

being sponsored to be part <strong>of</strong> a national sports team, to<br />

being given <strong>the</strong> courage, skills and ability to start <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

own business, at <strong>the</strong> end <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> day <strong>the</strong> true value <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

Edward C. Gartland Youth Centre lies in <strong>the</strong> successes <strong>of</strong><br />

its kids. Our kids. The next generation <strong>of</strong> TC Islanders<br />

forging <strong>the</strong>ir way in <strong>the</strong> world.<br />

Wellington Williams<br />

Most everyone knows Wellington, his cheery smile and<br />

creative talents are legendary, as almost everywhere you<br />

go you’ll catch a glimpse <strong>of</strong> his handmade jewelry. It’s<br />

delicate, pretty and absolutely au<strong>the</strong>ntically local!<br />

Wellington started attending <strong>the</strong> Youth Centre from<br />

age 12, and he says, “My experience <strong>the</strong>re was everything<br />

to me. I think my favourite thing about <strong>the</strong> Centre was<br />

that <strong>the</strong>y always focused on being <strong>the</strong> best you that you<br />

can be! They encouraged me to just try as many <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

programs <strong>the</strong>y <strong>of</strong>fered as I could, to expand my knowledge,<br />

open up different paths and career opportunities.<br />

This ‘just try’ attitude still helps me today in my business.<br />

I have <strong>the</strong> confidence to take chances, try out new ideas<br />

and get that positive outcome.”<br />

Wellington now runs his own company, The<br />

Wellington Collection, and recently opened his first store<br />

at The Saltmills selling his beautifully designed jewelry<br />

using local sand, conch and even recycled beer bottle<br />

glass. He’s an inspiration to <strong>the</strong> younger generation,<br />

showing what can be achieved with hard work and <strong>the</strong><br />

care <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> community. And he’s always giving back—his<br />

latest project is friendship bracelets that support local<br />

charities, from <strong>the</strong> Turks and Caicos AIDS Foundation to<br />

<strong>the</strong> Provo Children’s Home and <strong>of</strong> course <strong>the</strong>re’s one just<br />

for <strong>the</strong> Youth Centre too!<br />

William Elliot<br />

First <strong>of</strong>f when I contacted Will-O (as he likes to be called)<br />

about this article he responded with a very enthusiastic,<br />

“You know I’d do anything for <strong>the</strong> Centre!” which speaks<br />

volumes for how much this place means to <strong>the</strong> kids who<br />

attend. He explained to me that what he loved most was<br />

<strong>the</strong> chance to truly be himself. That it gave him a place<br />

to express his creativity and meet new friends—many <strong>of</strong><br />

whom are still a big part <strong>of</strong> his life today. Will was just<br />

20 www.timespub.tc


13 years old when he started attending ECGYC, using his<br />

time <strong>the</strong>re to study hard and participate in <strong>the</strong> Basketball<br />

Camps—and now he’s studying in Manchester, England<br />

for his Business Management Bachelor’s Degree and playing<br />

for his university’s basketball team.<br />

These stories highlight how essential <strong>the</strong> Edward<br />

C. Gartland Youth Centre is to our <strong>Islands</strong>. When youth<br />

become engaged in community activities <strong>the</strong>y become<br />

empowered, <strong>the</strong>y realise <strong>the</strong>ir voices and opinions are<br />

being considered, <strong>the</strong>y feel a part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> bigger picture,<br />

and all <strong>of</strong> a sudden our community becomes a place<br />

where both youth and adults share <strong>the</strong> common interest<br />

<strong>of</strong> making <strong>the</strong>ir shared space a better place.<br />

It’s clear <strong>the</strong> ECGYC has helped dozens <strong>of</strong> kids<br />

develop <strong>the</strong> skills to be effective leaders, given <strong>the</strong>m a<br />

sense <strong>of</strong> belonging and purpose, and created meaningful<br />

positive relationships with adults outside <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir families.<br />

This shows youth that <strong>the</strong>y are cared for not just<br />

individually but as a whole, as a part <strong>of</strong> what makes <strong>the</strong><br />

TCI what it is.<br />

With only three full-time and one part-time member<br />

<strong>of</strong> staff, <strong>the</strong> centre relies on volunteers to help deliver<br />

programs and, as a nonpr<strong>of</strong>it organization, hosts several<br />

fundraisers through <strong>the</strong> year to keep its doors open. The<br />

annual Art Show in January at The Shore Club, <strong>the</strong> Wine<br />

Cellar Golf & Fishing Tournament and <strong>the</strong> Beach Bonfire<br />

and BBQ at Bay Bistro are just some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ways <strong>the</strong>y can<br />

achieve this, along with donations from private donors<br />

like you.<br />

You cannot put a price on <strong>the</strong> benefits <strong>of</strong> a centre like<br />

<strong>the</strong> one we are lucky enough to have here. There are a few<br />

community leaders who have shown unwavering support<br />

from <strong>the</strong> ECGYC’s creation to today, including founder<br />

Galmo “Gilley” Williams and chairman Terry Drummey<br />

from Hemingway’s. Both have been <strong>the</strong>re every step <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> way, committing <strong>the</strong>ir time, money and hearts to this<br />

wonderful cause. But everyone who attends an event, volunteers<br />

time or makes a donation is part <strong>of</strong> what makes<br />

it all work.<br />

What <strong>the</strong> future holds for <strong>the</strong> ECGYC depends on<br />

our community giving back. Their goals? Similar youth<br />

centres on <strong>the</strong> TCI’s o<strong>the</strong>r islands. All it takes is a quick<br />

glance at <strong>the</strong> smiling faces <strong>of</strong> all <strong>the</strong> kids whose lives<br />

<strong>the</strong> EGYC has touched and changed to imagine <strong>the</strong> possibilities<br />

if <strong>the</strong>y could expand <strong>the</strong>ir reach all over Turks<br />

& Caicos. We can’t wait to see what <strong>the</strong> next ten years<br />

brings! a<br />

Please help to provide FREE spay & neuter to <strong>the</strong> animals <strong>of</strong> TCI<br />

For more information, visit www.ecgyouthcentre.com.<br />

Free Spay Neuter Program<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2018</strong>/<strong>19</strong> 21


feature<br />

Opposite page: Simple leaves, reddish petioles and tiny waxy yellow flowers make smooth snakebark Colubrina elliptica a subtly attractive<br />

tree. It is a useful landscaping tree, remaining small and clean.<br />

Above: Holding court from his home in Lorimers, Middle Caicos, Alton Higgs is a renowned local bush doctor and herbalist.<br />

Magnificent Mauby<br />

The un<strong>of</strong>ficial national tonic <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />

“Bush doctor,” I corrected my students, “not witch doctor. He makes herbal medications, he doesn’t fly<br />

around on a broom.” We approached <strong>the</strong> low, flat house, so shrouded in a tangle <strong>of</strong> fruit trees and wildly<br />

scrambling ornamental vines that it looked as though it was being coaxed down for a nap in <strong>the</strong> undergrowth.<br />

Hanging baskets and shelves swinging from tree branches filled gaps in <strong>the</strong> foliage, as did a hefty<br />

growth <strong>of</strong> flowering plants on <strong>the</strong> ground.<br />

Story & Photos By B Naqqi Manco, TCI Naturalist<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2018</strong>/<strong>19</strong> 23


A number <strong>of</strong> roughly-painted<br />

signs in loopy cursive festooned <strong>the</strong><br />

yard’s front fence, made from a bluegreen<br />

net: “Roaming goats and cows<br />

are a nuisance and forbidden by law to<br />

enter this yard. You hear!” and “Speed<br />

limit 20 MPH. You hear!”. “Hurricane<br />

Relief Unfair” stated one, while two<br />

more bore appeals to re-open old<br />

field-roads to important cultural sites<br />

and to give island-born children a status<br />

to grow <strong>the</strong> nation had decidedly<br />

more public-sector-aimed <strong>the</strong>mes.<br />

But <strong>the</strong> most important sign was<br />

<strong>the</strong> two-foot-round circle <strong>of</strong> polystyrene<br />

painted with a sketch <strong>of</strong> a house<br />

and in burgundy letters: “He is here.”<br />

(The o<strong>the</strong>r side, which could be seen<br />

when <strong>the</strong> sign was swung around and<br />

fastened with wire, stated “He is not<br />

here”.)<br />

Indeed, <strong>the</strong>re he was, slung low<br />

in his homemade seafoam green<br />

hammock, a hand dangling so <strong>the</strong><br />

knuckles grazed <strong>the</strong> carpet <strong>of</strong> dead<br />

leaves beneath, looking every bit as<br />

enshrouded in greenery as his house:<br />

Mr. Alton Higgs, <strong>the</strong> bush doctor and<br />

herbalist <strong>of</strong> Lorimers, Middle Caicos.<br />

My two British students, studying<br />

conservation science, had a challenging<br />

time with <strong>the</strong> sort-<strong>of</strong> language<br />

barrier—<strong>the</strong>y were new to <strong>the</strong> Caicos<br />

<strong>Islands</strong>’ accent and lexicon. As Mr.<br />

Alton stood from his hammock to<br />

greet us, he invited us into his home<br />

as he always did, to “Have a drink <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> God Bless!” I saw my students<br />

mouth <strong>the</strong> words in silent curiosity. I<br />

knew what was coming.<br />

As we entered his living room, <strong>the</strong><br />

walls smattered with family photos,<br />

religious iconography and awards <strong>of</strong><br />

recognition for personal and cultural<br />

achievements, along with handmade<br />

basketry and strings <strong>of</strong> sea beans,<br />

and <strong>the</strong> floor padded by brightly<br />

coloured hand-braided flotsam rope<br />

rugs, Mr. Alton disappeared into <strong>the</strong><br />

From top: This sign is <strong>the</strong> Middle Caicos equivalent <strong>of</strong> “The Doctor is In.”<br />

Alton Higgs’s pharmacopoeia includes mauby drink (in <strong>the</strong> juice jug at left) and mauby pills<br />

(in <strong>the</strong> glass bottle at center).<br />

kitchen and came back with a sweating pitcher and several large mismatched<br />

plastic cups. I managed to take <strong>the</strong> smallest cup . . . I was experienced at this.<br />

As <strong>the</strong> chilled liquid plunged from <strong>the</strong> pitcher into each cup, slightly<br />

frothy and red-amber with just a hint <strong>of</strong> cloudiness, I could see my students<br />

were uncertain. I took <strong>the</strong> lead and tossed back a hefty gulp <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> drink. Its<br />

intense bitterness shocked my tongue and made <strong>the</strong> inside <strong>of</strong> my check feel<br />

24 www.timespub.tc


Island Organics_Layout 1 8/26/18 9:52 AM Page 1<br />

rough. I gulped it and gasped, knowing that <strong>the</strong> aftertaste<br />

about to form was far more pleasant than <strong>the</strong> initial gush<br />

<strong>of</strong> acridity. My students had a visibly more challenging<br />

experience, but <strong>the</strong>y seemed to know that this was some<br />

sort <strong>of</strong> a test. I’m not sure whe<strong>the</strong>r <strong>the</strong>y figured <strong>the</strong>y were<br />

being tested by Mr. Alton or me, but <strong>the</strong>y sallied forth<br />

with strained gulps and a series <strong>of</strong> blinks and smacking<br />

<strong>of</strong> tongues. In a ritual repeated several times over by my<br />

students throughout <strong>the</strong> years, <strong>the</strong>y had just had <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

first taste <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> un<strong>of</strong>ficial national tonic <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks &<br />

Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>, mauby.<br />

This un<strong>of</strong>ficial national tonic is something <strong>of</strong> a<br />

regional specialty. Throughout <strong>the</strong> Caribbean Basin, from<br />

Florida through <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>, Central America into nor<strong>the</strong>rn<br />

South America, mauby is a cultural phenomenon.<br />

Mauby beverage (in Spanish maví, pronounced similarly)<br />

is made from one <strong>of</strong> two plants, more <strong>of</strong>ten <strong>the</strong> smooth<br />

snakebark tree Colubrina elliptica. This small, attractive<br />

tree in <strong>the</strong> buckthorn family grows throughout <strong>the</strong> New<br />

World tropics in lowland forests and tolerates a wide<br />

range <strong>of</strong> soil types and rainfall levels. Its close coastal<br />

relative Colubrina arborescens, in Turks & Caicos <strong>of</strong>ten<br />

called bastard-mauby or soap bush due to its historic use<br />

as a natural washing-up detergent, can also be used to<br />

make mauby.<br />

In many parts <strong>of</strong> its range, mauby is prepared by<br />

boiling <strong>the</strong> bark <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se trees and adding sugar, spices<br />

and o<strong>the</strong>r herbs and allowing <strong>the</strong> brew to ferment. This<br />

was likely <strong>the</strong> origin <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> drink—as a substitute for<br />

potato beer when a blight killed Caribbean potato crops<br />

in colonial times. While some ferment <strong>the</strong> brew strongly,<br />

in Turks & Caicos it isn’t traditionally fully fermented.<br />

Nowadays, it’s even made into a soda pop. In Trinidad<br />

and Tobago and <strong>the</strong> Dominican Republic, it appears as<br />

popular carbonated beverages, and has been compared<br />

to root beer. In Barbados, Mount Gay produces a mauby-flavoured<br />

rum.<br />

Although its past purpose was likely inebriation, it<br />

has o<strong>the</strong>r purported benefits today. In Turks & Caicos, it<br />

is said to give strength and “clean <strong>the</strong> blood.” In Barbados,<br />

it is used as a cooling drink and to treat arthritis, hypertension,<br />

high cholesterol, diarrhoea and diabetes. In <strong>the</strong><br />

Dominican Republic, it is sold in rum bottles full <strong>of</strong> wood,<br />

bark and leaves as <strong>the</strong> intoxicating Mamajuana, used to<br />

cure all sorts <strong>of</strong> ailments.<br />

Along with those benefits, it is also touted as a<br />

severely effective tonic for <strong>the</strong> increase <strong>of</strong> stamina, and<br />

as a decidedly powerful aphrodisiac. Its reputation for<br />

stamina extends into <strong>the</strong> survival <strong>of</strong> stress related to<br />

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<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2018</strong>/<strong>19</strong> 25


From top: While most mauby collectors cut <strong>the</strong> main trunk <strong>of</strong> a tree<br />

and strip all <strong>of</strong> its bark, old bark naturally peels <strong>of</strong>f and can be collected<br />

without harming <strong>the</strong> tree. Only <strong>the</strong> bark and wood are used<br />

medicinally in TCI, but bush doctors in o<strong>the</strong>r areas use <strong>the</strong> fruit capsules<br />

and shiny seeds to enhance <strong>the</strong> brew. Plant health <strong>of</strong>ficials in<br />

Trinidad inspect a large consignment <strong>of</strong> mauby bark destined to be<br />

turned into a popular beverage. The shipment originated in Haiti,<br />

which, with <strong>the</strong> Dominican Republic, is <strong>the</strong> leading exporter <strong>of</strong> mauby<br />

bark.<br />

meeting <strong>the</strong> constant challenges in serving terms as an<br />

elected <strong>of</strong>ficial—at least one former Chief Minister (<strong>the</strong><br />

position now called Premier) used to occasionally order<br />

a gallon <strong>of</strong> mauby from Middle Caicos to be sent up to<br />

Grand Turk on <strong>the</strong> plane. It’s used for aphrodisiac purposes<br />

in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos and in Haiti as well (one<br />

Haitian friend told me, “That’s why <strong>the</strong>re’s eleven million<br />

<strong>of</strong> us!”) and its popularity in some areas <strong>of</strong> Puerto Rico to<br />

feed <strong>the</strong> demand for manifestation <strong>of</strong> machismo resulted<br />

in <strong>the</strong> total disappearance <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> trees, necessitating <strong>the</strong><br />

few remaining to be fenced for <strong>the</strong>ir protection.<br />

Fortunately, its harvest in TCI is low and sustainable,<br />

with bush doctors coppicing trees ra<strong>the</strong>r than removing<br />

<strong>the</strong>m, so new branches grow back from <strong>the</strong> trunks. While<br />

<strong>the</strong>re’s somewhat a revival <strong>of</strong> interest in bush medicine,<br />

trees are no longer under <strong>the</strong> pressure <strong>the</strong>y once were,<br />

with many people opting for modern conventional drugs.<br />

But <strong>the</strong> benefits <strong>of</strong> mauby are well-studied, and it’s not a<br />

bunch <strong>of</strong> magical hocus-pocus.<br />

The magic in plants is in <strong>the</strong>ir expertise as master<br />

chemists, and <strong>the</strong> trees that produce mauby must be<br />

some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most achieved laboratory pr<strong>of</strong>essors <strong>of</strong> all.<br />

They produce hundreds <strong>of</strong> compounds that facilitate <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

respiration, protection, photosyn<strong>the</strong>sis, repair and reproductive<br />

cycles.<br />

Studies into <strong>the</strong> compounds <strong>the</strong>y produce have<br />

revealed that <strong>the</strong>se trees are pulsing with cocktails in <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

sap. With twice <strong>the</strong> tannins <strong>of</strong> red wine, <strong>the</strong> Colubrina trees<br />

work hard on producing chemicals. Polyphenols protect<br />

<strong>the</strong> trees from ultraviolet light damage and allow toughening<br />

<strong>of</strong> tissues that have been attacked by pests and<br />

diseases. An array <strong>of</strong> antioxidants is present in mauby,<br />

some unique to <strong>the</strong> plant. Phenolic acid has been shown to<br />

fight prostate cancer in medical studies in Sicily, and flavonoids<br />

and anthocyanins help regulate chronic diseases<br />

through inhibiting genetic inflammation and inflammatory<br />

T-cells, as well as controlling immune cell activity.<br />

Medical trials have shown <strong>the</strong>se compounds effective in<br />

treating asthma, arthritis and a variety <strong>of</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r inflammatory<br />

diseases. Flavanols help block fat retention and<br />

show anticancer properties. Several <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> many alkaloids<br />

present in mauby show antitumor qualities. Saponins,<br />

which make <strong>the</strong> suds favoured in <strong>the</strong> soap bush, also<br />

have anti-inflammatory effects. Is<strong>of</strong>lavones are present in<br />

higher concentrations than in soy (known to help prevent<br />

breast cancer) and stilbenes present in mauby are known<br />

to inhibit formation <strong>of</strong> Alzheimer’s disease.<br />

Studies done at University <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> West Indies Trinidad<br />

and Tobago found significant reduction in blood pressure<br />

26 www.timespub.tc


during two weeks <strong>of</strong> daily mauby consumption compared<br />

to placebo; similar results were noted along with lowering<br />

<strong>of</strong> pulse rate in a study carried out in New York. Indeed,<br />

<strong>the</strong> benefits <strong>of</strong> Mauby are well documented and continually<br />

bring studied.<br />

Before you rush out to your nearest bush doctor and<br />

imbibe a quart <strong>of</strong> mauby to solve your every health problem,<br />

remember that plant medicines are not inherently<br />

safer than drugs from <strong>the</strong> pharmacy. Mistakes in species<br />

identification, preparation methods and dosage can have<br />

significant effects, and mauby is known, with so many<br />

compounds in it, to contraindicate some medications<br />

dangerously. One should always be certain to discuss<br />

additions <strong>of</strong> medications, including bush medicine, to<br />

one’s health regimen with a physician. Unfortunately, it’s<br />

getting harder to find bush doctors <strong>the</strong>se days, and <strong>the</strong><br />

art is gradually losing pieces as bush doctors stop practicing.<br />

Fortunately, Mr. Alton has always been willing to<br />

teach about bush medicine, and that’s why my students<br />

would visit him. His knowledge <strong>of</strong> medicinal plants, which<br />

is traditional and passed down from generations before,<br />

is now being analysed in laboratories and found to have<br />

significant potential. About 80% <strong>of</strong> our modern medicines<br />

originate in plants, and we have a lot more plants to<br />

investigate—<strong>the</strong>re are lots more compounds to describe.<br />

That crossover between fieldwork and lab work is important,<br />

as is sharing benefits fully with <strong>the</strong> countries that<br />

own those genetic and cultural resources.<br />

While our approach was conservation ra<strong>the</strong>r than<br />

medical development, <strong>the</strong> traditional uses <strong>of</strong> plants are<br />

fascinating, and my students always come back to me<br />

with lists <strong>of</strong> questions, usually on <strong>the</strong> botanical names <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> <strong>of</strong>ten-colourful local names Mr. Alton uses. But one<br />

student I had, <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> posher and formally educated ilk,<br />

came back with a question that took some time for me<br />

to digest. This student wanted to know who Marge was.<br />

“Marge?” I asked. My student explained that Mr. Alton<br />

kept mentioning someone named Marge when talking<br />

about certain plant medicines. I asked for more information<br />

and recognised <strong>the</strong> pattern. “It’s not a person’s<br />

name. It’s not Marge . . . it’s marriage. I can understand<br />

how it sounds like Marge to you.” My student looked distraught,<br />

searched through notes, and began explaining<br />

more. “Yes,” I explained, “You marriage plants to produce<br />

some medications. It means combining <strong>the</strong>m. Marriage<br />

<strong>the</strong>m.” My student looked ra<strong>the</strong>r taken aback, even horrified,<br />

and sc<strong>of</strong>fed, “Marriage? But that’s not a verb!” a<br />

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<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2018</strong>/<strong>19</strong> 27


green pages<br />

newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & coastal resources<br />

head <strong>of</strong>fice: church folly, grand turk, tel 649 946 2801 • fax 649 946 1895<br />

• astwood street, south caicos, tel 649 946 3306 • fax 946 3710<br />

• national environmental centre, lower bight road, providenciales<br />

parks division, tel 649 941 5122 • fax 649 946 4793<br />

fisheries division, tel 649 946 4017 • fax 649 946 4793<br />

email environment@gov.tc or dema.tci@gmail.com • web https://www.gov.tc/decr/<br />

DAVID M STONE<br />

East Caicos reefs represent a significant reservoir <strong>of</strong> coral reef biodiversity that could prove to be resilient to climate change.<br />

Hope for TCI’s Future<br />

Climate change resilience and East Caicos coral reefs.<br />

By Kathleen Wood, Don Stark and Marsha Pardee<br />

In January 2017, <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos Reef Fund (TCRF), in association with SWA Environmental and Marine<br />

Environmental Services (MES), received a Swift Small Grant from <strong>the</strong> European Union’s BEST 2.0 Project.<br />

Entitled “East Caicos KBA’s Corals and Coasts: A Key to Safeguarding TCI’s Future,” <strong>the</strong> project’s primary<br />

objectives were to study <strong>the</strong> coral reef ecosystems at East Caicos and to develop preliminary conservation<br />

management recommendations.<br />

Coral reef ecosystems across TCI and <strong>the</strong> wider Caribbean region are suffering from <strong>the</strong> ravages <strong>of</strong><br />

climate change, poor fishing practices and impacts from land-based development; however, preliminary<br />

studies, conducted in May 2017, revealed that East Caicos coral reefs were healthy, with high levels <strong>of</strong><br />

live coral cover and limited evidence <strong>of</strong> disease or coral bleaching. The research team had cause for hope<br />

that East Caicos could be a reservoir <strong>of</strong> coral climate resilience in this changing world.<br />

28 www.timespub.tc


green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & coastal resources<br />

RICHARD GREEN<br />

DAVID M STONE<br />

DAVID M STONE<br />

Then disaster struck. On September 7, 2017,<br />

Hurricane Irma slammed into <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos<br />

<strong>Islands</strong> as a Category Five storm. A mere fortnight later,<br />

Hurricane Maria pounded ashore, adding insult to Irma’s<br />

injuries. On South Caicos, <strong>the</strong> inhabited island closest to<br />

East Caicos, more than 90% <strong>of</strong> buildings were damaged<br />

or destroyed. Although thankfully, no lives were lost in<br />

TCI, <strong>the</strong> catastrophic storms inflicted a scale <strong>of</strong> human<br />

suffering on TCI not seen in recent memory. The East<br />

Caicos research team was concerned that a similar level<br />

<strong>of</strong> devastation may have been visited on <strong>the</strong> natural environment,<br />

particularly on East Caicos reefs.<br />

Project background and history<br />

The scientific research conducted at East Caicos is among<br />

<strong>the</strong> most extensive ever undertaken for coral reef ecosystems<br />

in TCI. Initially, aerial and open-access satellite<br />

imagery were analyzed to identify potential areas <strong>of</strong> interest<br />

for investigating in person.<br />

Then preliminary field studies were conducted by<br />

dragging a snorkeler behind a boat and recording observations<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> seafloor. Using this method, 442 survey<br />

points were assessed. Following preliminary field studies,<br />

<strong>the</strong> marine habitats at East Caicos and <strong>the</strong>ir ecological<br />

characteristics were assessed to create preliminary maps<br />

using open-access (QGIS) GIS s<strong>of</strong>tware. This information<br />

was <strong>the</strong>n shared during a workshop with stakeholders,<br />

where preliminary conservation zones and management<br />

recommendations were developed. All this took<br />

place before <strong>the</strong> arrival <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> 2017 hurricanes, and <strong>the</strong><br />

research team had to wait for almost a year before <strong>the</strong>y<br />

could discover if <strong>the</strong>ir original optimism regarding <strong>the</strong><br />

exceptional ecological qualities <strong>of</strong> East Caicos reefs had<br />

been dashed to pieces in <strong>the</strong> turbulent storms.<br />

In August <strong>2018</strong>, <strong>the</strong> research team, aided by Explorer<br />

Adventures, <strong>the</strong> Department <strong>of</strong> Environment & Coastal<br />

Resources (DECR), <strong>the</strong> School for Field Studies (SFS) and<br />

TCI residents from <strong>the</strong> dive and scientific communities,<br />

were finally able to conduct in-depth monitoring at sixteen<br />

dive sites and five snorkel sites across <strong>the</strong> north<br />

shore <strong>of</strong> East Caicos. The quantitative surveys examined<br />

From top: The East Caicos research team heads out to begin conducting<br />

monitoring at 16 dive sites and five snorkel sites across <strong>the</strong><br />

island’s north shore. The team found that <strong>the</strong> reefs were healthy and<br />

thriving.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2018</strong>/<strong>19</strong> 29


green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & coastal resources<br />

From top: Divers conducted in-depth surveys on <strong>the</strong> reefs’ coral cover,<br />

diversity, algal cover, coral recruitment rates, fish biomass and diversity.<br />

On <strong>the</strong> reefs along East Caicos overall fishing pressure is light, maintaining<br />

a healthy diversity <strong>of</strong> fish!<br />

coral cover, coral diversity, algal cover, coral recruitment<br />

rates, fish biomass and diversity.<br />

To <strong>the</strong> team’s extraordinary relief, East Caicos reefs<br />

are still vibrant and thriving, in spite <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> impacts<br />

<strong>of</strong> Hurricanes Irma and Maria. Live coral cover on all<br />

reefs averaged approximately 20%, with <strong>the</strong> instance <strong>of</strong><br />

diseased or bleached coral being negligible. Results confirmed<br />

<strong>the</strong> research team’s earlier observations, that East<br />

Caicos reefs represent a significant reservoir <strong>of</strong> coral reef<br />

biodiversity that could prove to be resilient to climate<br />

change. These are important findings for TCI, <strong>the</strong> region<br />

and <strong>the</strong> world.<br />

Coral reefs and climate resilience<br />

Why are East Caicos reefs doing well when o<strong>the</strong>r reefs are<br />

struggling to survive? Resilience is <strong>the</strong> capacity to recover<br />

from or adapt to impacts and/or change. Although coral<br />

reefs have been in existence for approximately 500 million<br />

years, <strong>the</strong>y are struggling to keep pace with <strong>the</strong> rapid<br />

environmental changes that humans are inflicting on<br />

<strong>the</strong> planet. Corals are particularly sensitive to changes<br />

in temperature and water chemistry. Warming water,<br />

coupled with pollutants from human development and<br />

agriculture have been catastrophic to coral populations<br />

on a global scale, and scientists estimate that most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

world’s coral reefs will be gone by <strong>the</strong> end <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> century.<br />

Resilient populations, such as those at East Caicos,<br />

may be all that are left to repopulate <strong>the</strong> world’s<br />

oceans, if <strong>the</strong>y can survive.<br />

East Caicos corals stand a better chance than most<br />

for a number <strong>of</strong> reasons. The main factor is probably<br />

<strong>the</strong> fact that <strong>the</strong>re is no land-based development at East<br />

Caicos; <strong>the</strong>refore, land-based pollution is negligible,<br />

allowing <strong>of</strong>fshore reefs to enjoy close-to-pristine water<br />

quality. Diverse fish populations are also a critical factor.<br />

Herbivorous fish maintain healthy coral populations<br />

by eating competing algae and creating space for corals<br />

to grow and prosper. Although East Caicos is an important<br />

fishing area for South Caicos fisherfolk, fish species<br />

that are critical to coral reef health, particularly herbivorous<br />

parrotfish, are not targeted. Fur<strong>the</strong>rmore, overall<br />

fishing pressure is light, due to prevailing wea<strong>the</strong>r conditions,<br />

which allow for fishing only a few days <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

year. A final factor protecting East Caicos reefs may be<br />

cold water, which upwells from <strong>the</strong> depths <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> adjacent<br />

7,000-foot-deep Columbus Passage, bathing north<br />

shore East Caicos reefs in cool water and protecting <strong>the</strong>m<br />

to some extent from <strong>the</strong> rising ocean temperatures that<br />

are killing <strong>of</strong>f corals worldwide. In spite <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se factors,<br />

which <strong>of</strong>fer East Caicos reefs a fighting chance, <strong>the</strong>y are<br />

still vulnerable to human activities.<br />

Developing a conservation<br />

management plan<br />

With <strong>the</strong> exception <strong>of</strong> only a small portion <strong>of</strong> marine habitat<br />

contained within <strong>the</strong> Ramsar Nature Reserve, none<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> coral reefs surrounding East Caicos have any<br />

conservation status. East Caicos’ remoteness and inaccessibility<br />

have thus far protected it from major development<br />

MATTHEW SLATTERY<br />

DAVID M STONE<br />

30 www.timespub.tc


green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & coastal resources<br />

This peaceful scene on East Caicos exemplifies <strong>the</strong> need to keep it as an area <strong>of</strong> natural beauty in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />

AGILE LEVIN<br />

DAVID M STONE<br />

schemes, but with o<strong>the</strong>r land areas rapidly developing<br />

in TCI, East Caicos is viewed as a reservoir for future<br />

major development. Many development proposals for<br />

East Caicos have been suggested, such as trans-shipping<br />

and cruise ports. Ano<strong>the</strong>r project that may be detrimental<br />

is <strong>the</strong> proposed “link road,” which will connect all <strong>the</strong><br />

Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> via causeways and bridges. The link road<br />

will undoubtedly open up <strong>the</strong> island to large-scale and<br />

uncontrolled development, as land grabbers flock to get<br />

a piece <strong>of</strong> newly accessible land. Industrial commercial<br />

fishing interests have also engaged from time to time<br />

in large-scale trap fishing <strong>of</strong>f East Caicos. Such practices<br />

threaten <strong>the</strong> integrity <strong>of</strong> coral reef ecosystems via physical<br />

damages to <strong>the</strong> reefs and indiscriminate trapping <strong>of</strong><br />

all fish species, including those important to coral reef<br />

health.<br />

In order to address <strong>the</strong>se issues, <strong>the</strong> project developed<br />

conservation management recommendations for<br />

four conservation zones at East Caicos. These recommendations<br />

were presented to stakeholders on South Caicos<br />

in September <strong>2018</strong> and have been delivered to DECR and<br />

Scientist Kathleen Wood analyzes water samples collected by divers<br />

on <strong>the</strong> East Caicos reefs.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2018</strong>/<strong>19</strong> 31


green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & coastal resources<br />

<strong>the</strong> TCI Government (TCIG). Interested parties can view<br />

<strong>the</strong> final project report and recommendations at www.<br />

TCRF.org.<br />

Specifically, while traditional fishing should be<br />

allowed to continue, <strong>the</strong> research team recommends a<br />

ban on commercial-scale trap fishing across <strong>the</strong> nor<strong>the</strong>rn<br />

coastline <strong>of</strong> East Caicos. The team is also recommending<br />

that <strong>the</strong> island be developed lightly, focusing on ecotourism<br />

activities, which benefit small business owners<br />

and operators, ra<strong>the</strong>r than on large-scale developments,<br />

which will benefit only a few wealthy elites. The link road<br />

should also bypass East Caicos, if <strong>the</strong> island’s intact but<br />

fragile ecosystems are to stand any chance <strong>of</strong> survival.<br />

Most importantly, <strong>the</strong>se reefs need to be monitored over<br />

time to identify any changes that may be occurring.<br />

In order to ensure long-term monitoring takes place,<br />

an NGO/Public/Private partnership has been outlined<br />

between <strong>the</strong> TCRF, DECR and Explorer Adventures to<br />

conduct regular monitoring at <strong>the</strong> established permanent<br />

monitoring sites at least every two years. The ratification<br />

and implementation <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> recommended conservation<br />

zones and management plans falls within <strong>the</strong> remit <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> TCIG. History will record if decision-makers are able<br />

to set aside short-term political and financial expediency<br />

to save East Caicos coral reefs for <strong>the</strong> world’s future generations.<br />

We can but hope. a<br />

Special thanks to <strong>the</strong> Explorer Adventures Fleet, operators<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos Explorer II for supporting this<br />

effort by providing <strong>the</strong> vessel for completing <strong>the</strong> quantitative<br />

survey work in August <strong>2018</strong>. Thanks are also <strong>of</strong>fered<br />

to <strong>the</strong> DECR, <strong>the</strong> School for Field Studies and Timothy,<br />

Marley and Vonne Hamilton for <strong>the</strong>ir assistance with this<br />

project.<br />

This document has been produced with <strong>the</strong> financial<br />

assistance <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> European Union. The contents <strong>of</strong> this<br />

document are <strong>the</strong> sole responsibility <strong>of</strong> Wangeningen<br />

Marine Research and <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos Reef Fund and<br />

can under no circumstances be regarded as reflecting <strong>the</strong><br />

position <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> European Union. a<br />

32 www.timespub.tc


green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & coastal resources<br />

Ban <strong>the</strong> bag<br />

Single-use plastic shopping bags will soon be removed<br />

from supermarkets and shops across <strong>the</strong> TCI. The government-approved<br />

import ban will come into effect<br />

from January 1, 20<strong>19</strong>, with a ban on <strong>the</strong> use <strong>of</strong> singleuse<br />

plastic bags by retailers to come into effect on May<br />

1, 20<strong>19</strong>. There is a list <strong>of</strong> alternative bags which can be<br />

used by retailers from May 1, 20<strong>19</strong>, on which reduced<br />

custom tariff rates on some will be applied.<br />

Although some residents and visitors are waiting<br />

with baited breath for <strong>the</strong> plastic bag ban to kick into<br />

gear in <strong>the</strong> TCI, o<strong>the</strong>rs find <strong>the</strong>mselves anxious about<br />

what this would really mean for <strong>the</strong>m and <strong>the</strong>ir households.<br />

I’m here to tell you ‘“Fear no more!”<br />

Let’s start with <strong>the</strong> “Why?” Why do we want to get<br />

rid <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se convenient little carriers? They are useful<br />

for many reasons beyond carrying groceries out <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

store: They double as bin liners, are great for picking<br />

up your dog’s doo-doo, save any fragile hairstyle from<br />

<strong>the</strong> rain and are recyclable. Right? Wrong!<br />

They may do all <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> above, but <strong>the</strong>ir harm far<br />

outweighs <strong>the</strong>ir usefulness. On average, it is estimated<br />

that one person can use up to 170 plastic bags every<br />

year. Of this, 150 million end up as litter, as only 3%<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m are currently being recycled and 200,000 bags<br />

are dumped in landfills every hour. In China, 3 billion<br />

single-use plastic bags are used every day. Worldwide,<br />

about 2 million plastic bags are used every minute!<br />

“So what,” you might ask? More frequently we are<br />

seeing marine animals wash up on shore, with bellies<br />

filled with our convenience. Ocean Crusaders estimate<br />

that 100,000 marine creatures each year die from<br />

plastic entanglement and <strong>the</strong>se are <strong>the</strong> ones found.<br />

Approximately 1 million sea birds also die from plastic.<br />

A plastic bag can kill numerous animals because<br />

<strong>the</strong>y take so long to disintegrate. Plastic does not<br />

biodegrade, no matter how many times we stamp “biodegradable”<br />

on <strong>the</strong> bag. That means that as it breaks<br />

up in our oceans, it has <strong>the</strong> potential to exponentially<br />

harm! And not only sea creatures.<br />

The World Economic Forum’s research has revealed<br />

that 90% <strong>of</strong> our table salt is contaminated with plastics,<br />

and—which may be even more alarming—microplastics<br />

(<strong>the</strong> name we’ve given to <strong>the</strong> VERY tiny pieces that have<br />

broken down, but not degraded) are now being found<br />

in our poop! The full implications <strong>of</strong> this are yet to be<br />

seen, but we can just look at what it is doing to our<br />

marine and terrestrial friends and wonder if we would<br />

suffer a similar fate?<br />

However, <strong>the</strong>re is hope! Our region has not seen a<br />

massive reaction to plastics, in comparison to <strong>the</strong> rest<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> world, but TCI is one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> leaders on <strong>the</strong> frontline<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> war against plastic! Resorts and restaurants<br />

are now serving drinks with paper straws (or no straws<br />

at all) and are banning <strong>the</strong> single-use plastic water bottles,<br />

instead <strong>of</strong>fering guests a reusable souvenir that<br />

may be filled up at water stations around <strong>the</strong> resort. So<br />

those are <strong>the</strong> “big guys” making a change, but we, <strong>the</strong><br />

little guys, <strong>the</strong> individuals, have a responsibility too.<br />

Not just to our environment, or ourselves, but to <strong>the</strong><br />

generation to follow after us. The plastic bag ban is a<br />

simple and easy way to ensure that we are all (whe<strong>the</strong>r<br />

it is convenient or not) becoming custodians <strong>of</strong> our natural<br />

environment.<br />

It’s all about a change <strong>of</strong> habit. Speaking from experience,<br />

once you break your old habit (using single-use<br />

shopping bags) and get into <strong>the</strong> routine <strong>of</strong> putting <strong>the</strong><br />

re-usable carriers in your car, after using <strong>the</strong>m for your<br />

regular shop, <strong>the</strong>n it really is “as easy as that.”<br />

I am here to give you <strong>the</strong> permission to moan and<br />

groan, but keep an open mind and remind yourself that<br />

your inconvenience may mean <strong>the</strong> world to <strong>the</strong> planet’s<br />

future. Start packing your car with those re-usable bags<br />

today, making it a habit for a lifetime. a<br />

By Amy Avenant,<br />

DECR Environment Outreach Coordinator<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2018</strong>/<strong>19</strong> 33


green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & coastal resources<br />

JOHN DEBUYSSER<br />

A typical South Caicos coral community includes lobed star coral and boulder star coral, lettuce coral and <strong>the</strong> massive starlet coral.<br />

Battle <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Reefs<br />

Comparing South Caicos and East Caicos coral communities.<br />

By John DeBuysser and Heidi Hertler, Ph.D.<br />

Coral reefs are one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most productive and biodiverse ecosystems on Earth, supporting 25% <strong>of</strong> marine<br />

species and over 850 million people while composing only 0.015% <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ocean floor. These habitats<br />

are <strong>of</strong> such importance to ecosystem function and worldwide economy that <strong>2018</strong> has been declared <strong>the</strong><br />

International Year <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Reef.<br />

In <strong>the</strong> Caribbean region, coral reefs provide an estimated $3.1 to $5 billion to <strong>the</strong> Caribbean economy<br />

through fisheries, shoreline protection, and tourism. The Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> (TCI) are fortunate to<br />

have this beautiful and productive resource at our back door, supporting <strong>the</strong> local tourism and fishing<br />

industries. The tide <strong>of</strong> tourism is rapidly flowing into <strong>the</strong> TCI, with numbers <strong>of</strong> visitors steadily increasing.<br />

What we do now to preserve <strong>the</strong>se habitats benefits <strong>the</strong> economy and sustains this resource for future<br />

generations.<br />

34 www.timespub.tc


green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & coastal resources<br />

Worldwide coral reefs are threatened by climate<br />

change, ocean acidification, and anthropogenic disturbance.<br />

Tropical reefs have lost more than half <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

reef-building corals since <strong>the</strong> <strong>19</strong>70s. Experts have established<br />

a historical baseline <strong>of</strong> 53% live coral cover for<br />

<strong>the</strong> Caribbean; today <strong>the</strong>re is less than 20%. Although<br />

coral cover in <strong>the</strong> TCI was recorded to be 20% in <strong>19</strong>99,<br />

it could not be determined if this area was following <strong>the</strong><br />

Caribbean trend. TCI reefs are fortunate to have low algae<br />

cover compared to <strong>the</strong> rest <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Caribbean, allowing<br />

stronger coral recruitment and resiliency to disturbance<br />

events.<br />

The resiliency <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos’ reef ecosystem,<br />

particularly those surrounding South and East Caicos, is<br />

bolstered by a relatively extensive network <strong>of</strong> marine protected<br />

areas and low anthropogenic impact, respectively.<br />

In total, <strong>the</strong>se 34 protected zones cover an area <strong>of</strong> 705<br />

km 2 and comprise 11 national parks, 11 nature reserves,<br />

7 areas <strong>of</strong> historical interest, and 4 sanctuaries. The<br />

Admiral Cockburn Land and Sea National Park is one <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong>se areas <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>rn shore <strong>of</strong> South Caicos. The<br />

park was designated for its excellent reef habitat and representation<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> greater TCI reef system. This area has<br />

minimal pressure from development or tourism, providing<br />

excellent utility as a study area to establish baselines<br />

for TCI reef health.<br />

The School for Field Studies Center for Marine<br />

Resource Studies (SFS CMRS) is located in South Caicos<br />

and ideally situated to study and monitor local reef systems.<br />

SFS is a US-based academic institution that provides<br />

multidisciplinary, field-based environmental study abroad<br />

opportunities to undergraduate university students.<br />

East Caicos is <strong>the</strong> TCI’s largest uninhabited island<br />

and lies to <strong>the</strong> north <strong>of</strong> South Caicos. The reefs <strong>of</strong> East<br />

Caicos are important historic fishing grounds yet are<br />

largely without survey or assessment. This past August<br />

<strong>the</strong> TC Reef Fund, in cooperation with Explorer Ventures<br />

and funded through an EU BEST 2.0 Swift Small Grant<br />

(“Understanding East Caicos KBA’s Corals and Coasts:<br />

A Key to Safeguarding TCI’s Future”), hosted scientists<br />

aboard <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos Explorer II, including SFS CMRS<br />

faculty Dr. Franziska Elmer, to conduct <strong>the</strong> first mapping<br />

and habitat surveys <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> area.<br />

East Caicos’ coral reefs are not within a protected<br />

area, though <strong>the</strong> island’s remoteness, uninhabited status,<br />

and limited history <strong>of</strong> commercial and agricultural use<br />

School for Field Studies staff and students conduct underwater<br />

assessments <strong>of</strong> permanent transects at South Caicos reef sites.<br />

have protected <strong>the</strong> marine ecosystems from significant<br />

degradation and make it ideal for comparison to o<strong>the</strong>r<br />

systems around <strong>the</strong> TCI.<br />

Benthic surveys <strong>of</strong> South Caicos reefs have been completed<br />

by SFS staff and students in <strong>the</strong> fall and spring<br />

for <strong>the</strong> past six years. Ten permanent transects are surveyed<br />

and photographed. Coral Point Count with Excel<br />

Extensions (CPCe) was used to analyze photos by identifying<br />

species under randomly selected points. Over 44,000<br />

spatially random points on <strong>the</strong> photographs were analyzed.<br />

This year <strong>the</strong> survey <strong>of</strong> local reefs was expanded to<br />

include East Caicos. Similar to South, 49,500 points were<br />

surveyed along transects on <strong>the</strong> north side <strong>of</strong> East Caicos.<br />

Data was grouped into live coral (stony corals), s<strong>of</strong>t<br />

corals (gorgonians), sponges, algae (macro and coralline),<br />

and unsettled substrate (sand, pavement and rubble).<br />

We observed a slight decline in live coral cover on South<br />

Caicos from 2015 to <strong>2018</strong>, though this difference was<br />

found to not be significant. East Caicos averaged 12%<br />

live coral cover as compared to South Caicos’ 4% live<br />

coral cover. Conversely, East Caicos was found to have<br />

significantly greater macro algae cover as compared to<br />

South Caicos, which featured more bare rock and rubble<br />

substrate. The presence <strong>of</strong> bare substrate without<br />

HEIDI HERTLER<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2018</strong>/<strong>19</strong> 35


green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & coastal resources<br />

algal competitors suggests this can be good habitat for<br />

coral recruitment, hopefully poising South Caicos for an<br />

increase in coral cover.<br />

The South Caicos coral community is dominated<br />

by lettuce coral (Agaricia agaricites), lobed star coral<br />

(Orbicella annularis), boulder star coral (Orbicella franksi)<br />

and <strong>the</strong> massive starlet coral (Siderastrea siderea), while<br />

East Caicos reefs are characterized by mountainous star<br />

coral (Orbicella faveolata), lobed star coral (Orbicella<br />

annularis), boulder star coral (Orbicella franksi) and<br />

mustard hill coral (Porites astreoides). We compared <strong>the</strong><br />

biodiversity <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> two areas using <strong>the</strong> Shannon-Weaver<br />

Index. This metric takes into account both <strong>the</strong> number <strong>of</strong><br />

species present and also <strong>the</strong> relative abundance within<br />

<strong>the</strong> community. These values are important when trying<br />

to understand community structure. Although East<br />

Caicos appears to have greater benthic diversity, <strong>the</strong>re<br />

was not a significant difference between <strong>the</strong> sites.<br />

Moving forward, we will continue to monitor <strong>the</strong> South<br />

Caicos and East Caicos reef systems. Fur<strong>the</strong>r analysis will<br />

focus on coral recruitment rates to better understand <strong>the</strong><br />

net population trends <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> present coral community<br />

and its resiliency to potential disturbances. Both South<br />

Caicos and East Caicos reefs will likely face challenges as<br />

tourism continues to rise and fishing pressure increases<br />

to feed a growing population. Research such as this provides<br />

detailed information on <strong>the</strong> status <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se reefs so<br />

stakeholders can make informed decisions on <strong>the</strong> management<br />

and preservation <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> “Beautiful by Nature”<br />

marine resources <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>. a<br />

Sources<br />

Buddemeier RW, Lane DR, Martinich JA (2011) Modeling<br />

regional coral reef responses to global warming and<br />

changes in ocean chemistry: Caribbean case study.<br />

Climactic Change 109: 375-397.<br />

Carleton C, Hambrey J (2006) Review and re-assessment<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> TCI protected area system. Nautilus Consultants<br />

Ltd.<br />

Dikou A, Ackerman C, Banks C, Dempsey A, Fox M,<br />

Gins M, Hester P, Parnes A, Roach S, Rohde J, Spital C,<br />

Tapleshay M, Thomas L (2009) Ecological assessment<br />

to detect imminent change in coral reefs <strong>of</strong> Admiral<br />

Cockburn Land and Sea National Park, Turks and Caicos<br />

<strong>Islands</strong>. Marine Ecology 30: 425-436.<br />

From top: Coral Point Count with Excel Extensions (CPCe) allows for<br />

determination <strong>of</strong> coral cover from transect photographs by identifying<br />

species at random points.<br />

This graph shows <strong>the</strong> percent coverage <strong>of</strong> transects determined from<br />

photo analysis. East Caicos (green) and South Caicos (orange) are<br />

compared by three categories: corals and sponges, macroalgae and<br />

coralline algae, and sand, pavement, and rubble.<br />

International Year <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Reef (<strong>2018</strong>) International Coral<br />

Reef Initiative.<br />

Jackson JBC, Donovan MK, Cramer KL, Lam VV (editors).<br />

(2014) Status and trends <strong>of</strong> Caribbean coral reefs: <strong>19</strong>70-<br />

2012. Global Coral Reef Monitoring Network, IUCN,<br />

Gland, Switzerland.<br />

Kohler KE and Gill SM (2006) Coral Point Count with Excel<br />

extensions (CPCe): A visual basic program for <strong>the</strong> determination<br />

<strong>of</strong> coral and substrate coverage using random<br />

point count methodology. Computers and Geosciences<br />

32(9): 1259-1269.<br />

World Wildlife Fund (2015) Living blue planet report: species,<br />

habitats and human well-being. World Wildlife Fund<br />

International, Gland, Switzerland.<br />

36 www.timespub.tc


MARTA MORTON—WWW.HARBOURCLUBVILLAS.COM


feature<br />

Opposite page: Building <strong>the</strong> Caicos Sloops that were so important for transportation and trade required tremendous ingenuity and resourcefulness<br />

from <strong>the</strong> native boat builders.<br />

Above: This <strong>19</strong>10 postcard shows workers in <strong>the</strong> salt ponds <strong>of</strong> Grand Turk, in front <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Old Prison and Victoria Library. Although <strong>the</strong>y were<br />

not slaves (slavery was abolished in 1834), <strong>the</strong> image depicts <strong>the</strong> difficult conditions workers faced.<br />

E NEALE COVERLEY—COURTESY TURKS & CAICOS NATIONAL MUSEUM COLLECTION<br />

Sailing to Freedom<br />

TCI slave escapes in <strong>the</strong> early 1800s.<br />

By Ben Stubenberg<br />

Few endeavors are more woven into <strong>the</strong> culture and history <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> than sailing. Ever<br />

since <strong>the</strong> Bermudians rediscovered TCI some 350 years ago and began collecting salt from <strong>the</strong> natural<br />

salinas, boats played a defining role. By day, fast and agile sloops called “lighters” brought sacks <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

precious “white gold” from <strong>the</strong> shores <strong>of</strong> Grand Turk, Salt Cay and South Caicos to larger ships waiting in<br />

deep water for <strong>the</strong> voyage back to Bermuda. Larger sloops plied <strong>the</strong> turquoise waters between <strong>the</strong> scattered<br />

TCI settlements where Islanders welcomed <strong>the</strong>ir arrival for <strong>the</strong> passengers and cargo <strong>the</strong>y carried<br />

and news <strong>the</strong>y brought <strong>of</strong> separated kin and <strong>the</strong> world beyond.<br />

At night, however, <strong>the</strong> vessels served a more daring, clandestine purpose. Under <strong>the</strong> cover <strong>of</strong> darkness,<br />

<strong>the</strong> salt raker slaves who had had enough secretly ga<strong>the</strong>red on <strong>the</strong> beach where <strong>the</strong> boats bobbed in<br />

<strong>the</strong> sea. Quietly, <strong>the</strong>y unfurled and raised <strong>the</strong> sails, let <strong>the</strong> warm wind fill <strong>the</strong> luffing canvass, and steered<br />

south by <strong>the</strong> stars splashed across a black Caribbean sky to freedom.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2018</strong>/<strong>19</strong> 39


The rocky islets <strong>of</strong> Bermuda, where this story begins,<br />

lie some 750 miles (1200 km) due north <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> TCI in<br />

<strong>the</strong> middle <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> North Atlantic. Settlers from Scotland,<br />

England and Ireland first arrived on <strong>the</strong> 21 square mile<br />

archipelago in <strong>the</strong> early 1600s and tried to make a go at<br />

small scale agriculture. But when <strong>the</strong> soil depleted after a<br />

couple <strong>of</strong> generations, <strong>the</strong>y looked for o<strong>the</strong>r ways to survive.<br />

Straddling <strong>the</strong> major shipping routes from Europe to<br />

<strong>the</strong> West Indies, as well as close proximity to <strong>the</strong> American<br />

colonies, Bermudians found a niche as an opportunistic<br />

seafaring outpost. The settlers and <strong>the</strong> African slaves<br />

<strong>the</strong>y imported built boats with shallow drafts that also<br />

made <strong>the</strong>m more maneuverable for negotiating tricky<br />

reefs. They also improved <strong>the</strong> four cornered trapezoid<br />

gaff rig so it could point <strong>the</strong> boats more closely into <strong>the</strong><br />

wind and require fewer tacks.<br />

In what became known and admired as <strong>the</strong> Bermudian<br />

Sloop, sailors gained a decisive advantage that translated<br />

into a measure <strong>of</strong> autonomy and a geographical<br />

reach well beyond <strong>the</strong>ir isolated islands. It also bred a<br />

brash, adventurous spirit in a dangerous, unforgiving<br />

world where pirates and warships roamed <strong>the</strong> same seas,<br />

jockeying for dominance and riches. Though nominally<br />

under British dominion, Bermudians <strong>of</strong>ten became pirates<br />

<strong>the</strong>mselves and traded with any nation that could pay,<br />

including Britain’s enemies.<br />

With <strong>the</strong>se swift sloops, <strong>the</strong> Bermudians, black and<br />

white, explored <strong>the</strong> Bahamian Archipelago in search <strong>of</strong><br />

shipwrecks with treasure and to hunt for turtles. During<br />

one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> voyages in <strong>the</strong> latter 1600s, <strong>the</strong>y came across<br />

<strong>the</strong> <strong>the</strong>n-uninhabited islands <strong>of</strong> TCI. A century before, <strong>the</strong><br />

Taino and Lucayan Indians had all been killed by disease,<br />

slaughtered, or carried <strong>of</strong>f as slaves forced to dive for<br />

pearls <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> coast <strong>of</strong> Venezuela. (See “Diving Free,” Fall<br />

<strong>2018</strong> <strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>.) The Bermudians took note <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> salinas (salt ponds) <strong>of</strong> Grand Turk, Salt Cay, and South<br />

Caicos that allowed in just enough ocean water to leave<br />

behind high quality salt around <strong>the</strong> edges after evaporation<br />

in <strong>the</strong> hot sun. Before refrigeration, salt preserved<br />

food, and was thus extremely valuable.<br />

At first, <strong>the</strong> Bermudians dropped <strong>of</strong>f white, indentured<br />

salt rakers in March at <strong>the</strong> beginning <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> dry season<br />

The hard, brutal work and conditions for <strong>the</strong> salt-raking slaves were detailed in <strong>the</strong> story <strong>of</strong> Mary Prince, herself a slave from Bermuda who<br />

spent ten years on Grand Turk from 1802 to 1812. After being brought to London as a slave, she ran away from her “owner” and told her<br />

story to British abolitionist Thomas Pringle, who transcribed her words that became a best selling book.<br />

40 www.timespub.tc


Walkin May2017_Layout 1 5/28/17 5:45 PM Page 1<br />

and picked <strong>the</strong>m up in November, along with <strong>the</strong> salt <strong>the</strong>y<br />

had ga<strong>the</strong>red. As demand for salt rose in New England,<br />

Newfoundland, and Labrador to keep cod from rotting<br />

(fishermen needed two pounds <strong>of</strong> salt for every pound <strong>of</strong><br />

fish), Bermudian salt merchant slaveholders swapped <strong>the</strong><br />

white salt rakers for slaves <strong>of</strong> African descent and established<br />

permanent settlements around <strong>the</strong> ponds.<br />

Slavery’s harsh reality<br />

The work and conditions were hard and brutal. (See<br />

“Toiling in <strong>the</strong> Salt Ponds,” Fall 2008 <strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>.)<br />

We know in painful detail from a rare first-hand account<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> plight <strong>of</strong> salt-raking slaves by Mary Prince, herself<br />

a slave from Bermuda who spent ten years on Grand Turk<br />

from 1802 to 1812. After being brought to London as a<br />

slave, she ran away from her “owner” and told her story to<br />

British abolitionist Thomas Pringle, who transcribed her<br />

words that became a best selling book.<br />

“I was given a half barrel and a shovel, and had to stand<br />

up to my knees in <strong>the</strong> water, from four o’clock in <strong>the</strong><br />

morning till nine. [I} worked through <strong>the</strong> heat <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> day;<br />

<strong>the</strong> sun flaming upon our heads like fire, and raising<br />

salt blisters. Our feet and legs, from standing in <strong>the</strong> salt<br />

water for so many hours, soon became full <strong>of</strong> dreadful<br />

boils, which eat down in some cases to <strong>the</strong> very bone. We<br />

<strong>the</strong>n shoveled up <strong>the</strong> salt in large heaps and sometimes<br />

we had to work all night, measuring salt to load a vessel;<br />

or turning a machine to draw water out <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> sea for <strong>the</strong><br />

salt-making.”<br />

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Any slave perceived as not putting in full effort could<br />

expect tortuous punishment. Mary Prince describes what<br />

happened to “Old Daniel” who could not work as hard as<br />

<strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>rs because <strong>of</strong> a lame hip.<br />

“[The owner] would order him to be stripped and laid<br />

down on <strong>the</strong> ground, and have him beaten with a rod<br />

<strong>of</strong> rough briar till his skin was quite red and raw. He<br />

would <strong>the</strong>n call for a bucket <strong>of</strong> salt, and fling [it] upon<br />

<strong>the</strong> raw flesh till <strong>the</strong> man wri<strong>the</strong>d on <strong>the</strong> ground like a<br />

worm, and screamed aloud with agony. This poor man’s<br />

wounds were never healed. I have <strong>of</strong>ten seen <strong>the</strong>m full <strong>of</strong><br />

maggots, which increased his torments to an intolerable<br />

degree. He was an object <strong>of</strong> pity and terror to <strong>the</strong> whole<br />

gang <strong>of</strong> slaves, and in his wretched case we saw, each <strong>of</strong><br />

us, our own lot, if we should live to be as old.”<br />

For <strong>the</strong> slaves, it was well nigh impossible to break<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2018</strong>/<strong>19</strong> 41


MARTA MORTON—WWW.HARBOURCLUBVILLAS.COM<br />

What became <strong>the</strong> Caicos Sloop proved to be <strong>the</strong> equal <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> masterful Bermudian sloop, allowing TCI to develop its own sailing prowess. The<br />

maritime linkages between <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> enabled <strong>the</strong> boat builders to pass on sailing skills to salt rakers.<br />

out <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir subjugation. Unlike mountainous Jamaica<br />

where runaway slaves called “Maroons” could hide in<br />

small communities deep in <strong>the</strong> interior jungles, TCI’s<br />

small, flat islands <strong>of</strong>fered no such refuge. The slave masters<br />

had <strong>the</strong> salt rakers trapped—until a confluence <strong>of</strong><br />

three pivotal elements gave <strong>the</strong>m a chance: The means<br />

to escape, a safe haven, and an intelligence network to<br />

guide <strong>the</strong>ir course <strong>of</strong> action.<br />

Building <strong>the</strong> Caicos sloop<br />

As slaves like Mary Prince and Old Daniel labored to produce<br />

ever more salt under threat <strong>of</strong> violence, <strong>the</strong> salt<br />

merchant pond owners needed more boats to transport<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir commodity. Bermuda was already running short <strong>of</strong><br />

trees to cut, but small forests in Middle Caicos turned out<br />

to have excellent quality wood to build small lighters, as<br />

well as bigger sloops for longer voyages. Constructing<br />

<strong>the</strong> boats locally instead <strong>of</strong> sailing hundreds <strong>of</strong> miles<br />

down from Bermuda made sense. And soon an independent<br />

boat building industry sprang up using African<br />

slaves from Bermuda as shipwrights, carpenters and<br />

blacksmiths.<br />

The tenacity to build Bermudian-style fast sloops from<br />

scratch in <strong>the</strong> bush cannot be overstated. David Douglas,<br />

owner <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> West Indian sloop Atabeyra and founder<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Caicos Sloop Project, makes clear <strong>the</strong> incredible<br />

resourcefulness and ingenuity required. “With just meager<br />

tools, <strong>the</strong>se TCI guys went into <strong>the</strong> bush, found <strong>the</strong><br />

right trees, and hand-cut <strong>the</strong> wood to build ocean-going<br />

vessels. And <strong>the</strong> builders passed down that knowledge,<br />

as well as <strong>the</strong> skills to sail, from one generation to <strong>the</strong><br />

next, right through to today.”<br />

James S. Deane <strong>of</strong> Wheeling on Providenciales recalled<br />

<strong>the</strong> traditional boat building techniques that he had<br />

learned from his fa<strong>the</strong>r. They built <strong>the</strong>ir Caicos Sloops <strong>the</strong><br />

way <strong>the</strong>y did 200 years ago, using mostly strong locust or<br />

mahogany wood for <strong>the</strong> keel and ribs and Caicos pine for<br />

<strong>the</strong> planks, mast and spars. Builders would <strong>of</strong>ten search<br />

and select trees that already had a natural curve so just<br />

one piece could be used. “After laying <strong>the</strong> keel,” Mr.<br />

Deane said, “<strong>the</strong> ribbing shape only varied between <strong>the</strong><br />

more rounded ‘rainbow’ style or ‘straight V.’ My fa<strong>the</strong>r<br />

could cut <strong>the</strong> planks so precise that <strong>the</strong> spacing would<br />

be as little as 1/64th <strong>of</strong> an inch. But <strong>the</strong> craftsmanship<br />

was actually too good, as it did not permit enough space<br />

for <strong>the</strong> caulking using sisal tree fibers and ‘putty’ made<br />

from a mix <strong>of</strong> ant nest and paint. So <strong>the</strong>y had to widen <strong>the</strong><br />

spacing a bit.” For Mr. Deane and <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r boat builders<br />

<strong>of</strong> today and long ago, <strong>the</strong> sloops were as much a work<br />

<strong>of</strong> art and beauty, as function. They wanted <strong>the</strong>ir boats to<br />

42 www.timespub.tc


look as good as <strong>the</strong>y sailed.<br />

What became <strong>the</strong> Caicos Sloop proved to be <strong>the</strong> equal<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> masterful Bermudian sloop, allowing TCI to develop<br />

its own sailing prowess. The maritime linkages between<br />

<strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> enabled <strong>the</strong> boat builders to pass on sailing<br />

skills to salt rakers, according to Dr. Carlton Mills, editor<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> The History <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>. That connection<br />

was particularly strong between Middle Caicos<br />

and South Caicos, as boats regularly launched from <strong>the</strong><br />

settlement <strong>of</strong> Lorimers and made <strong>the</strong>ir way down <strong>the</strong><br />

channel and <strong>the</strong> lee side <strong>of</strong> South Caicos for trade, news<br />

and, over time, family ties with <strong>the</strong> salt rakers. Dr. Mills<br />

also points out that salt rakers on Grand Turk, Salt Cay<br />

and South Caicos likely worked on <strong>the</strong> small lighters sailing<br />

between <strong>the</strong> shore and larger ships to bring salt and<br />

<strong>of</strong>f-load cargo, which would fur<strong>the</strong>r enhance <strong>the</strong>ir nautical<br />

knowledge. For slaves seeking to escape, however,<br />

<strong>the</strong> boats had limited utility unless <strong>the</strong>y could find refuge<br />

with contacts, a sanctuary in an o<strong>the</strong>rwise hostile environment.<br />

Slaves revolt in Haiti<br />

Beginning in <strong>the</strong> 1770s, revolutions rumbled first in <strong>the</strong><br />

American Colonies, followed by France, and <strong>the</strong>n Haiti.<br />

All violently challenged longstanding notions <strong>of</strong> hierarchy<br />

and power and called for a new, more egalitarian political<br />

order. However imperfectly, <strong>the</strong> leaders attempted to<br />

apply what had been only philosophical concepts <strong>of</strong> basic<br />

rights, social contract and democratic self-determination.<br />

For slaves in Haiti, <strong>the</strong> revolutionary choice was far more<br />

stark—barbarous bondage or liberty.<br />

The French colony <strong>the</strong>n known as St. Domingue lay<br />

just 100 miles (160 km) south <strong>of</strong> TCI and encompassed a<br />

third <strong>of</strong> Hispañola. The fertile land <strong>the</strong>re produced more<br />

wealth than any o<strong>the</strong>r colony in <strong>the</strong> Caribbean, mainly<br />

through vast sugar cane plantations. For aspiring French<br />

gentry seeking fortune and higher status, Haiti <strong>of</strong>fered<br />

a clear path to get <strong>the</strong>re. All it took were seed capital,<br />

importing thousands <strong>of</strong> slaves from Africa to work <strong>the</strong><br />

fields and a decade <strong>of</strong> ruthless plantation management.<br />

Slaveholders figured <strong>the</strong>y could get one or two year’s <strong>of</strong><br />

hard labor from a slave before he or she succumbed to<br />

Yellow Fever or exhaustion, so <strong>the</strong>y constantly sought<br />

to replenish slaves, while expanding <strong>the</strong>ir plantations to<br />

generate more income. The reckless greed soon led to<br />

a 10:1 ratio <strong>of</strong> slaves to whites, higher than o<strong>the</strong>r West<br />

Indian colonies, including TCI which had at most a 6:1<br />

ratio. Watching <strong>the</strong> insurrections in Haiti and experienc-<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2018</strong>/<strong>19</strong> 43


BEN STUBENBERG<br />

James S. Deane <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Wheeling settlement in Providenciales is one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> great living TCI boat builders. He learned <strong>the</strong> craft from his fa<strong>the</strong>r.<br />

ing <strong>the</strong>ir own revolts in Jamaica, <strong>the</strong> British were especially<br />

sensitive to slaves overwhelming <strong>the</strong> white population,<br />

according to Dr. Mills, and sought to reduce <strong>the</strong> ratios as<br />

a management technique.<br />

In 1791, <strong>the</strong> first revolt took place in Nor<strong>the</strong>rn Haiti<br />

near <strong>the</strong> colony’s capital, Cap-François, today called Cap-<br />

Haitien or Okap. The slaves massacred several plantation<br />

families before being put down. But precedent had been<br />

set, and soon new uprisings took place leading to <strong>the</strong><br />

creation <strong>of</strong> well-led Haitian militias that evolved into disciplined<br />

armies pitted against French troops fighting to<br />

preserve <strong>the</strong> plantation system.<br />

The conflict took many twists and turns over <strong>the</strong><br />

next 12 years, including alliances on both sides with free<br />

mulattos who saw an opportunity to improve <strong>the</strong>ir own<br />

lot as a class with limited rights. The French Revolution<br />

ideals <strong>of</strong> liberty, equality and fraternity had already<br />

reached Haiti’s shores and been internalized by slaves<br />

and mulattos. When Napoleon Bonaparte came to power<br />

in France in 1802, <strong>the</strong> now ex-slaves had taken control<br />

over most <strong>of</strong> Haiti. Influenced by his wife Josephine, herself<br />

from Martinique, ano<strong>the</strong>r colony dependent on slaves<br />

to cut cane, and plantation owners eager to regain <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

holdings, Napoleon sent an army <strong>of</strong> 50,000 men from<br />

France to quash <strong>the</strong> rebellion definitively. By <strong>the</strong> following<br />

year, however, almost all <strong>the</strong> troops had been wiped out<br />

by Yellow Fever and a formidable Haitian fighting force.<br />

Napoleon would later write that his effort to win back<br />

Haiti was <strong>the</strong> worst decision he ever made.<br />

On January 1, 1804, Haitian leaders formally declared<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir independence, becoming <strong>the</strong> second independent<br />

republic in <strong>the</strong> Americas and <strong>the</strong> first black one. They<br />

discarded <strong>the</strong> name St. Domingue and restored <strong>the</strong> original<br />

Taino Indian name, Haiti, meaning “land <strong>of</strong> high<br />

mountains.” The Haitian Revolution stands as <strong>the</strong> only<br />

successful slave revolt in history. The biggest slave rebellion<br />

prior to Haiti had been <strong>the</strong> unsuccessful uprising led<br />

by Spartacus against <strong>the</strong> Romans more than 1,900 years<br />

earlier. Keenly cognizant <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir singular accomplishment,<br />

Haitians enticed thousands <strong>of</strong> free and enslaved<br />

blacks in <strong>the</strong> West Indies to flee to <strong>the</strong>ir shores and secure<br />

rights denied elsewhere.<br />

44 www.timespub.tc


Network <strong>of</strong> black mariners<br />

The triumph by <strong>the</strong> oppressed in Haiti reverberated<br />

throughout <strong>the</strong> slave communities in <strong>the</strong> West Indies,<br />

as well as among slaveholders fearful that insurrections<br />

might come <strong>the</strong>ir way too. While slaveholders, merchants<br />

and government authorities typically got <strong>the</strong>ir information<br />

through <strong>the</strong> press, letters, <strong>of</strong>ficial reports, visitors<br />

and sometimes plantation owners fleeing <strong>the</strong> strife in<br />

Haiti, slaves received <strong>the</strong>ir updates in a very different<br />

manner. Excluded from standard forms <strong>of</strong> communication,<br />

slaves relied instead on black sailors who picked up<br />

news in <strong>the</strong> ports <strong>the</strong>y visited and passed it on, effectively<br />

creating a parallel structure.<br />

Dr. Kevin Dawes, Pr<strong>of</strong>essor <strong>of</strong> History at <strong>the</strong> University<br />

<strong>of</strong> California, Merced, explores this dynamic in his paper<br />

“Enslaved Ship Pilots in <strong>the</strong> Age <strong>of</strong> Revolution: Challenging<br />

Notions <strong>of</strong> Race and Slavery between <strong>the</strong> Boundaries <strong>of</strong><br />

Land and Sea.” He writes:<br />

“Atlantic ports were market places for news and pilots<br />

funneled intelligence between mariners, passengers, and<br />

shoreside communities, serving as <strong>the</strong> overseas eyes and<br />

ears <strong>of</strong> urban and rural slave communities. News was<br />

passed by word <strong>of</strong> mouth along maritime routes . . . free<br />

black sailors linked black communities in New England to<br />

<strong>the</strong> West Indies.”<br />

Hugh final_Layout 1 5/29/17 1:15 PM Page 1<br />

Pr<strong>of</strong>essor Dawes goes on to assert that “<strong>the</strong>se murmurs<br />

<strong>of</strong> liberty rippled across <strong>the</strong> greater Caribbean inspiring<br />

corollary slave rebellions.”<br />

During this era <strong>of</strong> political and social upheaval in<br />

<strong>the</strong> Americas, black mariners, slave and free, occupied a<br />

unique and liberating space on <strong>the</strong> water with far fewer<br />

constraints than slaves on land. Able to roam, <strong>the</strong>se men<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> sea witnessed and absorbed <strong>the</strong> fissures <strong>of</strong> instability<br />

and change in <strong>the</strong> region that <strong>the</strong>y passed on. In<br />

<strong>the</strong> fluid environment, black mariners also understood<br />

how <strong>the</strong>ir specialized skills could be exploited for more<br />

privileges and to redefine notions <strong>of</strong> race and status. As<br />

Pr<strong>of</strong>essor Dawes explains, <strong>the</strong> independent character <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> labor <strong>of</strong> free and enslaved black mariners “undercut<br />

white dominance, allowing <strong>the</strong>m to use <strong>the</strong> ocean as a<br />

transient sphere <strong>of</strong> opportunity where <strong>the</strong>y severed terrestrial<br />

ties . . . and gained economic advantages and<br />

racial parity deprived ashore.”<br />

Nowhere was this equality more conspicuous than<br />

with enslaved pilots who gained <strong>the</strong> trust <strong>of</strong> white shipmasters<br />

to safely guide <strong>the</strong> lumbering sailing vessels into<br />

tricky harbors after crossing <strong>the</strong> Atlantic. Shipmasters<br />

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in fact became dependent on pilots’ essential maritime<br />

knowledge, enabling <strong>the</strong>m to take advantage and invert<br />

<strong>the</strong> racial hierarchy <strong>of</strong> subservience. Indeed, enslaved<br />

pilots regularly talked back, cursed and ordered about<br />

white captains and crew. One account <strong>of</strong> an enslaved pilot<br />

in Barbados has him even demanding grog as he took<br />

command <strong>of</strong> a ship entering <strong>the</strong> harbor and <strong>of</strong>fered a<br />

toast to <strong>the</strong> white women passengers below, something<br />

that would not have been tolerated on land.<br />

Ship owners and shipmasters did not object or challenge<br />

<strong>the</strong> pilots, lest <strong>the</strong>y risk <strong>the</strong> pilot “accidentally”<br />

crashing <strong>the</strong> ship and cargo on <strong>the</strong> reef or shoals around<br />

<strong>the</strong> harbor. In some instances, ship owners even enjoyed<br />

watching <strong>the</strong> black slave pilots boss around white sailors,<br />

thus fur<strong>the</strong>r highlighting <strong>the</strong> inverted social hierarchy<br />

on deck. The deference given to <strong>the</strong>se black mariners,<br />

<strong>of</strong> course, infused a level <strong>of</strong> confidence and freedom to<br />

move about and openly flout <strong>the</strong> norms <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> day.<br />

As many ships frequented Grand Turk, Salt Cay and<br />

South Caicos to unload food and materials and pick<br />

up sacks <strong>of</strong> salt, <strong>the</strong>se black mariners and o<strong>the</strong>r slaves<br />

brought news <strong>of</strong> revolt and liberation to <strong>the</strong> salt rakers.<br />

Their influence on <strong>the</strong> salt rakers did not go unnoticed by<br />

TCI slaveholders who blamed <strong>the</strong>m for inciting escapes.<br />

In <strong>the</strong> chapter on Slavery in The History <strong>of</strong> Turks & Caicos<br />

<strong>Islands</strong>, TCI historian Nigel Sadler quotes <strong>the</strong> assessment<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> “King’s Agent” in TCI Colonel Alexander Murray in<br />

1798:<br />

“Of late many valuable Negroes allured by <strong>the</strong> description<br />

given <strong>the</strong>m <strong>of</strong> French liberty by <strong>the</strong>ir associates,<br />

have eloped to <strong>the</strong> enemy. One man <strong>of</strong> Salt Cay, James<br />

Deane, has lost no less than fifteen. Of <strong>the</strong> several plans<br />

to escape with boats to Cap François, we have found no<br />

instance where <strong>the</strong> French Negroes were not <strong>the</strong> principals<br />

or parties.”<br />

And this was well before <strong>the</strong> Haitian Revolution had<br />

ended.<br />

It is important to note that while black mariners<br />

calling on TCI ports played a critical role in transmitting<br />

intelligence for would-be escapees, <strong>the</strong>y were not <strong>the</strong><br />

only source. Dr. Mills notes that household slaves also<br />

had excellent access to information by <strong>the</strong>ir proximity<br />

to <strong>the</strong> salt merchants <strong>the</strong>y served. They may have overheard<br />

talk about upcoming travels, in-fighting or illnesses<br />

that would have distracted slaveholders from keeping a<br />

watchful eye. The house slaves would feign ignorance or<br />

disinterest when in fact <strong>the</strong>y were listening and observ-<br />

46 www.timespub.tc


TWATIMES_Layout 1 2/16/17 7:49 AM Page 1<br />

ing carefully. At <strong>the</strong> same time, Dr. Mills suggests, slave<br />

mistresses <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> salt merchants may also have picked<br />

up intelligence through <strong>the</strong>ir intimate contact to pass on.<br />

These important nuggets could be pieced toge<strong>the</strong>r and<br />

factored into decision-making for an escape. Any escape<br />

plot took extensive and creative planning to ensure success.<br />

Failure was not an option, and <strong>the</strong>re is in fact no<br />

record <strong>of</strong> TCI slaves being caught escaping.<br />

Efforts to stop slave escapes<br />

The first King’s Agent in TCI, Andrew Symmer, made <strong>the</strong><br />

initial attempt to control boats being taken by slaves. He<br />

required all boat owners to remove <strong>the</strong>ir sails at night<br />

and instituted liability and penalties by compelling “any<br />

master <strong>of</strong> a servant or slave” who absconded with a boat<br />

“to make good all damages” to <strong>the</strong> boat’s owner. By <strong>the</strong><br />

early 1800s, local authorities instituted more severe measures<br />

to punish slaveholders for not controlling slaves<br />

sufficiently. If <strong>the</strong> slaveowners lost slaves to escapes,<br />

authorities reduced <strong>the</strong>ir share <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> salinas in direct<br />

proportion to <strong>the</strong> slaves <strong>the</strong>y no longer had, thus hurting<br />

<strong>the</strong>m financially.<br />

The incentives to control slave escapes apparently<br />

had little effect, as statistics bear out <strong>the</strong> prevalence <strong>of</strong><br />

slave escapes from TCI. According to Mr. Sadler, “Between<br />

1822 and 1825, <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> 142 slaves listed as runaways in<br />

<strong>the</strong> Bahamas (which at that time included TCI), 128 (90%)<br />

had absconded from Turks & Caicos, mainly due to <strong>the</strong><br />

ease <strong>of</strong> access to salt ships and proximity <strong>of</strong> Haiti.” These<br />

included slaves escaping in this time frame on sloops<br />

from Hawks Nest, Grand Turk, from North Caicos using<br />

sloops owned by Wade Stubbs also in 1823, and from<br />

South Caicos in <strong>the</strong> sloop Polly taken from Henshall<br />

Stubbs.<br />

Finally, British <strong>of</strong>ficials deployed a detachment <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

West Indies Regiment on Grand Turk to uphold law and<br />

order in <strong>the</strong> early 1830s. But even that was not enough.<br />

A year before emancipation in 1834, salt pond owner and<br />

slaveholder Henshall Stubbs took matters into his own<br />

hands by furnishing his own boats to serve as a de facto<br />

coast guard to try to stop <strong>the</strong> exodus <strong>of</strong> slaves getting<br />

away by boat.<br />

Absconding with sloops to sail to Haiti and freedom<br />

was not unique to TCI. Pr<strong>of</strong>essor Dawson notes that in<br />

1817, seven Jamaican slaves commandeered <strong>the</strong>ir pilot<br />

boat, <strong>the</strong> Deep Nine, when <strong>the</strong> owner and captain went<br />

ashore near Port Royal and sailed it to Haiti. British<br />

authorities blamed Haitian sailors for importing revolutionary<br />

ideals that led to <strong>the</strong> slave escapes by boat.<br />

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<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2018</strong>/<strong>19</strong> 47


Project11_Layout 1 11/14/18 3:09 PM Page 1<br />

Knowing that <strong>the</strong> new Haitian government protected fugitives<br />

from re-enslavement, <strong>the</strong> runaway Jamaicans made<br />

no attempt to conceal <strong>the</strong>mselves or <strong>the</strong>ir boat when <strong>the</strong><br />

owner/captain came to Haiti looking for <strong>the</strong>m. He got <strong>the</strong><br />

boat back but not <strong>the</strong> mariners, now former slaves.<br />

Leaving a legacy<br />

The names <strong>of</strong> enslaved TCI salt rakers who escaped <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

ordeal have been lost to history. But through <strong>the</strong> words <strong>of</strong><br />

Mary Prince echoing through <strong>the</strong> centuries, we know how<br />

motivated <strong>the</strong>y must have been. We know <strong>the</strong> courage<br />

that it took in view <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> severe punishment that awaited<br />

<strong>the</strong>m if caught. And we know that <strong>the</strong>y were very much<br />

part <strong>of</strong> a Great Caribbean network <strong>of</strong> intelligence fostered<br />

by black mariners and o<strong>the</strong>r slaves who kept <strong>the</strong>m well<br />

informed.<br />

Using nautical skills likely acquired from handling<br />

lighters and from boat builders, escaping slaves would<br />

have been prepared to sail <strong>the</strong> 100 miles (160 km) to<br />

Haiti in less than a day with a good nor<strong>the</strong>rly breeze.<br />

As for navigation, Mr. Douglas posits that <strong>the</strong> escaping<br />

slaves probably knew quite well what <strong>the</strong>y were doing.<br />

“In late winter/spring, <strong>the</strong>y would easily have located<br />

<strong>the</strong> Sou<strong>the</strong>rn Cross just above <strong>the</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>rn horizon that<br />

would have guided <strong>the</strong>m to Cap-Haitien.”<br />

We can only imagine <strong>the</strong> anguish <strong>the</strong> salt rakers felt<br />

leaving behind family and friends without much hope <strong>of</strong><br />

seeing <strong>the</strong>m again. At <strong>the</strong> same time, we can sense <strong>the</strong><br />

thrill <strong>of</strong> escape across <strong>the</strong> ocean and embarking on a new<br />

life in a new land, however uncertain <strong>the</strong> future. Indeed,<br />

<strong>the</strong> TCI salt rakers took full advantage <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> cracks in<br />

<strong>the</strong> prevailing system <strong>of</strong> bondage to make <strong>the</strong>ir move.<br />

Far from passive observers, scores <strong>of</strong> salt rakers, perhaps<br />

hundreds, claimed freedom on <strong>the</strong>ir terms in <strong>the</strong>ir native<br />

Caicos sloops despite resolute efforts to stop <strong>the</strong>m, leaving<br />

behind a legacy <strong>of</strong> bold defiance. a<br />

Ben Stubenberg is a contributing writer to <strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

<strong>Islands</strong> with a passion for Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> history.<br />

An avid ocean man, he is <strong>the</strong> co-founder <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> sports and<br />

adventure tour company Caicu Naniki and <strong>the</strong> annual<br />

Turks & Caicos “Race for <strong>the</strong> Conch” Eco-Seaswim. Ben<br />

can be reached at ben@caicunaniki.com.<br />

48 www.timespub.tc


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<strong>the</strong> sporting life<br />

Opposite page and above: In order to prepare for his upcoming participation in <strong>the</strong> 20<strong>19</strong> Marathon Des Sables (and to stave <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> ravages<br />

<strong>of</strong> turning 50!), TCI explorer and author John Galleymore undertook a serious fitness regime.<br />

Fit at Fifty<br />

It’s never too late to get in shape when extreme challenges are ahead.<br />

By TCI Explorer John Galleymore ~ Photos By Brilliant Studios, www.brilliantstudios.com<br />

As I explained my next planned adventure and what it entailed, a close friend replied, “Hadn’t you look to<br />

start getting in shape?” He cited a recent picture <strong>of</strong> me on East Caicos and, on reflection, I have to admit<br />

I was getting a little portly. If I was serious about competing in <strong>the</strong> 20<strong>19</strong> Marathon Des Sables, a 250 km<br />

run across <strong>the</strong> Sahara Desert, <strong>the</strong>n I had some serious training to do.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2018</strong>/<strong>19</strong> 51


I have just turned 50 and have always been active<br />

with hiking and running, but as you get older <strong>the</strong> weight<br />

can start to creep on and it’s <strong>of</strong>ten harder for older folks<br />

to shift it. But take heed, excess weight is not just a vanity<br />

issue—it can lead to health problems such as strokes,<br />

diabetes and heart issues.<br />

I decided to tackle this dilemma on all fronts and not<br />

just “crash diet” to lose a few pounds. I undertook some<br />

serious research that led me into <strong>the</strong> realms <strong>of</strong> weight<br />

training, boxing, yoga, nutrition and <strong>the</strong> understanding<br />

<strong>of</strong> hormones and <strong>the</strong>ir role in balancing our bodies.<br />

Before and after<br />

I decided to set out all <strong>the</strong> things I needed to change,<br />

including:<br />

DIET: I decided make subtle changes to my eating habits.<br />

Out went white bread, bad carbs, candy, processed foods,<br />

and most dairy products, and in came more vegetables,<br />

good fats, seeds and nuts. I cut down on my intake <strong>of</strong><br />

meats (especially red meat) and immediately felt better<br />

for it.<br />

GYM: I wanted to keep toned up as I lost weight so<br />

enrolled in <strong>the</strong> Wrightfully Fit gym on Providenciales<br />

(www.wrightfullyfit.com). This had <strong>the</strong> cross section <strong>of</strong><br />

exercises I was looking for, including free weights, cardio<br />

machines and boxing punch bags. I gleaned plenty <strong>of</strong><br />

advice from owner John Wright for <strong>the</strong> road ahead.<br />

YOGA: I wanted to increase my flexibility. This not only<br />

decreases <strong>the</strong> chance <strong>of</strong> injury, but yoga is a great way to<br />

de-stress and it can give an enormous sense <strong>of</strong> well-being<br />

and calm. I found <strong>the</strong> best place for all types <strong>of</strong> yoga at<br />

any level <strong>of</strong> ability to be <strong>the</strong> Retreat Yoga and Wellness<br />

Studio (www.retreattc.com) at Ports <strong>of</strong> Call plaza.<br />

SWIMMING: This is <strong>the</strong> one sport that “does it all.” If you<br />

can never run, get to a gym or go to an exercise class,<br />

<strong>the</strong>n 20 minutes <strong>of</strong> swimming a few times a week will<br />

make a huge difference! Better still, you don’t need to be<br />

an expert swimmer and it’s free!<br />

HORMONAL IMBALANCE: Most people are only not aware<br />

that any hormonal imbalance can wreak havoc on <strong>the</strong><br />

body. From thyroid issues to insulin production, how we<br />

feel (and look) are <strong>of</strong>ten a direct result <strong>of</strong> our natural<br />

hormone production.<br />

One aspect <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> regime involved a variety <strong>of</strong> exercises and weight<br />

training at Wrightfully Fit Gym in Providenciales.<br />

Working out in <strong>the</strong> gym<br />

I have frequented gyms on and <strong>of</strong>f most <strong>of</strong> my life, so I<br />

do feel comfortable in <strong>the</strong>m and <strong>the</strong> machines and equipment<br />

are second nature to me. However, for a beginner<br />

<strong>the</strong>y can be very daunting places to walk into. I appreci-<br />

52 www.timespub.tc


John Galleymore found yoga to increase his flexibility, strength and overall well-being.<br />

ated <strong>the</strong> friendliness and welcoming nature <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> staff<br />

and gym users at Wrightfully Fit. A good introduction for a<br />

novice would be to book a one-to-one session with ei<strong>the</strong>r<br />

John or one <strong>of</strong> his qualified personal trainers. They will<br />

show you around <strong>the</strong> gym and give detailed instruction<br />

on how to use <strong>the</strong> equipment so that you get maximum<br />

benefit and exercise safely. They can design a program<br />

tailormade for you.<br />

Yoga<br />

“We believe yoga is a path to connection, and <strong>the</strong> antidote<br />

to separation. Yoga is one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most holistic approaches<br />

to your well-being, because while <strong>the</strong> physical aspect <strong>of</strong><br />

yoga is <strong>of</strong>ten what draws people to <strong>the</strong> practice, <strong>the</strong>re<br />

is an undercurrent <strong>of</strong> self-awareness and a broader life<br />

perspective developing.”<br />

—Laura and Lindsay Mensen<br />

Yoga is something I’d never done. It never appealed<br />

to me, because I thought that unless you’re heaving<br />

weights around, panting for air and sweating pr<strong>of</strong>usely,<br />

it’s not “real” exercise . . . how wrong I was! As a novice,<br />

I booked a private lesson with Lindsay, who co-founded<br />

The Retreat with her sister Laura. Within minutes Lindsay<br />

has me totally at ease. She takes me through several basic<br />

poses, moves and techniques which are <strong>the</strong> fundamentals<br />

<strong>of</strong> yoga. Once I’ve got <strong>the</strong> basic grasp, I can join a class<br />

anywhere I choose. I tell her my concern that I will stand<br />

out as a novice, and get <strong>the</strong> poses wrong. She assures<br />

me that yoga is all about yourself and you go at your own<br />

pace. I soon find that <strong>the</strong> positions come easily, although<br />

I’m amazed at <strong>the</strong> strength needed to hold <strong>the</strong>m correctly<br />

for any period <strong>of</strong> time. Fortunately, you can make <strong>the</strong><br />

session as hard or as easy as you like—The Retreat <strong>of</strong>fers<br />

classes to suit everyone from Deep Flow to Hot Yoga and<br />

relaxing and gentle stretching.<br />

Swimming in warm TCI waters<br />

I’ve been told countless times that swimming is <strong>the</strong> best<br />

all-round exercise you can possible do, for it’s <strong>the</strong> one<br />

activity that works all <strong>the</strong> major muscle groups and gives<br />

you a cardio workout simultaneously. Despite knowing its<br />

benefits, I’ve never been a great swimmer and if I was to<br />

stick to my new fitness regime, that had to change!<br />

Of all <strong>the</strong> sports and exercises available, swimming is<br />

probably one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> few that you can’t initially self-learn.<br />

Once you have <strong>the</strong> basics however, you can advance and<br />

improve alone and at your own pace.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2018</strong>/<strong>19</strong> 53


Although I could already swim, I wanted to improve<br />

my technique, so I contacted Ben Stubenberg, a TCI swim<br />

coach and founder <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> “Race for <strong>the</strong> Conch” ocean<br />

swim event (www.caicunaniki.com). I started <strong>of</strong>f slowly<br />

and very soon improved my technique, allowing me to<br />

swim far<strong>the</strong>r. The good thing about swimming is that you<br />

don’t need to be an expert—even a short swim will give<br />

you a great workout. If it’s confidence in <strong>the</strong> water you<br />

need, <strong>the</strong>re’s no better teacher than Ben, and he <strong>of</strong>fers<br />

his services to any age and any level <strong>of</strong> swimmer.<br />

“Open water swimming provides a workout experience like<br />

no o<strong>the</strong>r. When you swim in <strong>the</strong> clear turquoise waters <strong>of</strong><br />

our islands, you not only engage <strong>the</strong> whole body in fluid<br />

motion, but you enter a different world. There is no o<strong>the</strong>r<br />

exercise that so completely utilizes every muscle group.”<br />

—Ben Stubenberg<br />

The training regime<br />

Now that I had <strong>the</strong> best information from pr<strong>of</strong>essionals<br />

in <strong>the</strong>ir fields, I embarked on a 12-week program <strong>of</strong><br />

health and fitness. My goal was to lose my excess weight,<br />

become fitter, leaner and more supple. I initially set<br />

about training three to four times a week. Primarily, this<br />

was gym-based as I wanted to ease into <strong>the</strong> training to<br />

avoid any injury. I started <strong>of</strong>f with light weights and built<br />

up gently as my strength increased. John Wright was a<br />

constant source <strong>of</strong> advice and inspiration. Under his guidance,<br />

I found myself using free weights, boxing punch<br />

bags and cardio machines.<br />

I soon added a weekly swim into my program. This<br />

was actually on my “rest day” from <strong>the</strong> gym. Rest is as<br />

important as working out and without good rest days,<br />

injury and fatigue will soon follow. Swimming is <strong>the</strong> best<br />

exercise to limit stress on <strong>the</strong> body, so it’s perfect to start<br />

Swimming in TCI’s exquisite turquoise waters is exercise good for<br />

body, mind and soul.<br />

<strong>of</strong>f with while you streng<strong>the</strong>n joints and muscle.<br />

After a number <strong>of</strong> lessons at The Retreat Studio, I<br />

was able to practice yoga at home. It is one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> few<br />

exercises you can do anywhere! At home, on <strong>the</strong> beach—<br />

<strong>the</strong>re’s no excuse once you have learnt <strong>the</strong> basics and it’s<br />

also a great way to relieve stress.<br />

54 www.timespub.tc


Lise amends_Layout 1 11/14/18 7:43 PM Page 1<br />

In fact, stress and anxiety are one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> key factors<br />

in gaining and retaining excess weight. Who hasn’t been<br />

in <strong>the</strong> situation where we grab a candy bar or slice <strong>of</strong><br />

cake after a hard day? That is stress creating a hormone<br />

called cortisol. Levels <strong>of</strong> this “stress hormone” rise during<br />

tension-filled times. This can turn your overeating into a<br />

habit. Because increased levels <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> hormone also help<br />

cause higher insulin levels, your blood sugar drops and<br />

you crave sugary, fatty foods. It is a vicious circle that<br />

needs to be broken.<br />

I would recommend that anyone serious about changing<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir lifestyle or concerned about excess weight visit<br />

<strong>the</strong> doctor and get blood tests to determine any underlying<br />

issues. As men age, testosterone decreases and this<br />

can lead to excess weight around <strong>the</strong> belly. In women,<br />

menopause can wreak havoc with weight, so it’s important<br />

to seek advice whatever your gender.<br />

Dr. Lise Cloutier<br />

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Changing my food lifestyle<br />

In order to find <strong>the</strong> best way I could to change my “food<br />

lifestyle,” I contacted Tamika Handfield, founder <strong>of</strong><br />

Nutrition In Demand (www.nutritionindemand.com) and<br />

one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> leading authorities on nutrition and health in<br />

<strong>the</strong> TCI. She says, “Don’t diet—change your lifestyle!”<br />

Dr. Lise Cloutier, Courtyard Chiropractic and Wellness<br />

La Vista Azul, Unit 6-9, Turtle Cove, Providenciales, TCI<br />

Call 649-339-1000<br />

www.ChiropractorAndMassageTherapy.ca<br />

urgent care • family medicine<br />

URGENT CARE<br />

WALK-IN CLINIC<br />

“Eating well is fundamentally important to living well and<br />

having good quality <strong>of</strong> life as we age. The old adage, ‘We<br />

are what we eat,’ turns out to be true. The nourishment<br />

<strong>the</strong> body needs to support good growth in children and<br />

optimal health in adults comes directly from <strong>the</strong> foods we<br />

eat. Therefore, it is imperative that we choose whole foods<br />

over refined foods; fruits and vegetables over chips and<br />

soda and lean protein sources such as beans and poultry<br />

over <strong>the</strong>ir fat-laden counterparts <strong>of</strong> beef and pork.<br />

Changing <strong>the</strong> way you eat can seem daunting if you<br />

try to do everything at once. Instead, commit to making<br />

small, incremental changes that you can maintain. For<br />

example, if you are trying to eat less meat, commit to eating<br />

a vegetarian meal at least once a week until you are<br />

AND WELLNESS CENTRE<br />

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Focused on <strong>the</strong> patient<br />

The way medicine should be practiced<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2018</strong>/<strong>19</strong> 55


Exercise <strong>of</strong> any kind is a good way to defuse <strong>the</strong> tensions <strong>of</strong> life (and relieve excess aggression!)<br />

comfortable cooking that way and <strong>the</strong>n you can increase<br />

<strong>the</strong> number <strong>of</strong> days you have a vegetarian dinner. Eating<br />

a healthy diet consists <strong>of</strong> variety, portion control (moderation),<br />

and being intentional about what you put into your<br />

body.”<br />

䨀 愀 渀 甀 愀 爀 礀<br />

㈀<br />

琀 栀<br />

㈀ 㤀 㘀 㨀<br />

倀 爀 漀 甀 搀 猀 甀 瀀 瀀 漀 爀 琀 攀 爀 漀 昀<br />

—Tamika Handfield MS, RD,<br />

Founder, Nutrition In Demand<br />

䌀 栀 椀 氀 搀 爀 攀 渀 猀 倀 愀 爀 欀 Ⰰ 倀 爀 漀 瘀 椀 搀 攀 渀 挀 椀 愀 氀 攀 猀<br />

吀 甀 爀 欀 猀 ☀ 䌀 愀 椀 挀 漀 猀 䤀 猀 氀 愀 渀 搀 猀<br />

䄀 䴀<br />

䘀 漀 爀 洀 漀 爀 攀 椀 渀 昀 漀 㨀 ⠀ 㘀 㐀 㤀 ⤀ 㐀 㐀 ㈀ⴀアパート 㤀 㜀 㠀 簀 渀 甀 琀 爀 椀 琀 椀 漀 渀 椀 渀 搀 攀 洀 愀 渀 搀 䀀 礀 愀 栀 漀 漀 ⸀ 挀 漀 洀<br />

簀 洀 漀 瘀 攀 愀 琀 栀 漀 渀 琀 挀 椀 ⸀ 挀 漀 洀<br />

Tamika gives some great advice. It’s about a lifestyle<br />

change, not crash dieting or starving yourself. Despite<br />

my rigorous training and watching my diet, I still had a<br />

few beers and a pizza at <strong>the</strong> weekend. However, I was<br />

conscious not to eat junk food all weekend (as I used to)<br />

but use it as “reward’ for a good week’s training.<br />

In my research I came across all sorts <strong>of</strong> weird diets.<br />

One that I did investigate was <strong>the</strong> Ketogenic Diet. This<br />

seems to be <strong>the</strong> “fad” diet at <strong>the</strong> moment, but I did follow<br />

it on a basic level—cut out carbs (found predominantly in<br />

processed foods), introduce more “good” fats, fish and<br />

vegetables and cook with butter and not processed vegetable<br />

oil.<br />

After some weeks, I found <strong>the</strong> excess weight falling<br />

<strong>of</strong>f and I had more energy as I “de-toxed” into a healthy<br />

diet. Training became more habit than chore and when<br />

I couldn’t make <strong>the</strong> gym or a swim, I walked to work<br />

instead. I lost 32 pounds over 12 weeks (going from 220<br />

pounds to 188) and will look to continue to embrace a<br />

healthier lifestyle. It’s not hard to do, it’s simply a case <strong>of</strong><br />

making good choices. a<br />

*Be sure to seek medical advice before undertaking any<br />

exercise regime or diet change.<br />

56 www.timespub.tc


The Toughest Foot Race in <strong>the</strong> World:<br />

Running for TCI charities<br />

Runners in <strong>the</strong> annual Marathon Des Sables will be attempting to complete <strong>the</strong> equivalent <strong>of</strong> six regular marathons in six days through<br />

<strong>the</strong> Sahara Desert. TCI adventurer John Galleymore will be competing from April 5–15, 20<strong>19</strong> to raise money for several TCI charities.<br />

In April 20<strong>19</strong>, I will be departing <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos<br />

<strong>Islands</strong> and heading to Ouarzazate, Morocco and <strong>the</strong><br />

infamous Sahara Desert for <strong>the</strong> Marathon Des Sables,<br />

named by <strong>the</strong> Discovery Channel as <strong>the</strong> “toughest footrace<br />

on Earth.” I will join a few hundred o<strong>the</strong>r crazy<br />

runners and we will attempt to run, walk, hobble and<br />

probably crawl <strong>the</strong> 160 miles (equivalent to six regular<br />

marathons) from start to finish. Each runner will have<br />

to carry all <strong>the</strong>ir kit and food for <strong>the</strong> week and we will<br />

sleep in basic open-sided tents set up each night by a<br />

local Bedouin tribe. Water is supplied at checkpoints<br />

along <strong>the</strong> route each day and is strictly rationed.<br />

The terrain is typical desert, just like <strong>the</strong> movies!<br />

Vast open desert interspersed with towering sand<br />

dunes, over which we need to run up to 20 miles a<br />

day, in temperatures exceeding 100ºF. To add to <strong>the</strong><br />

“fun,” <strong>the</strong> organizers throw in a “double stage” which<br />

is over 50 miles and will take most people 20 hours or<br />

more to complete, which means running all day in <strong>the</strong><br />

extreme heat, <strong>the</strong>n continuing through <strong>the</strong> night when<br />

temperatures plummet to freezing.<br />

This will be a huge challenge, least <strong>of</strong> all as I just<br />

turned 50 this year, but o<strong>the</strong>rs in life face daily challenges<br />

beyond <strong>the</strong>ir control. It’s for that reason that I<br />

will be running this race to raise funds for five charities,<br />

four <strong>of</strong> which are in <strong>the</strong> TCI. The UK-based charity,<br />

Weldmar Hospicecare, is <strong>the</strong> hospice where my loving<br />

aunt recently passed, having been diagnosed with cancer.<br />

I will be raising funds for <strong>the</strong> TCI Cancer Society in<br />

memory <strong>of</strong> her, along with Ashley’s Learning Center,<br />

<strong>the</strong> TCSPCA and <strong>the</strong> Iris Stubbs Primary School.<br />

I am trying to raise $15,000. and would welcome<br />

help from any resort, business or individual who is able<br />

to assist me. Thanks to all who have supported me so<br />

far, and especially those businesses who have donated<br />

including: Projetech, Grace Bay Club, Graceway IGA,<br />

Blue Kayak Fishing (South Caicos). a<br />

John Galleymore<br />

Please get in touch if you would like to know more or to<br />

donate: galleymorejohn@gmail.com or 649 232 7083.<br />

For more information on <strong>the</strong> Marathon Des Sables, visit<br />

marathondessables.com.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2018</strong>/<strong>19</strong> 57


astrolabe<br />

newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />

front street, p.o. box 188, grand turk, turks & caicos islands, bwi<br />

tel 649 946 2160 • fax 649 946 2160 • email info@tcmuseum.org • web www.tcmuseum.org<br />

RA SHAW DESIGNS<br />

This drawing depicts architect Ron Shaw’s plans for a new Museum building in Providenciales.<br />

Plans for Provo Expansion<br />

By Dr. Michael P. Pateman, Museum Director, Turks & Caicos National Museum Foundation<br />

At <strong>the</strong> September meeting <strong>of</strong> our Board <strong>of</strong> Members and Directors, architect Ron Shaw presented plans<br />

for a new museum facility in Providenciales. This work was conducted pro bono and we are grateful that<br />

one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> TCI’s premier architects donated his time and talents for <strong>the</strong> growth and expansion <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

museum. Inspiration for <strong>the</strong> design comes from <strong>the</strong> Bermudian architecture that is a prominent part<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> landscape <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks <strong>Islands</strong> (particularly Grand Turk and Salt Cay) but is absent in <strong>the</strong> Caicos<br />

<strong>Islands</strong>. With a new design, we will launch a major fundraising campaign.<br />

58 www.timespub.tc


The Ron Shaw drawings above show what <strong>the</strong> new museum building on Providenciales would look like from <strong>the</strong> front and road sides (at left)<br />

and how <strong>the</strong> building would fit into <strong>the</strong> existing campus on Grace Bay.<br />

One <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most important reasons for a national<br />

museum’s existence is to preserve cultural identity—to<br />

help develop pride in who we are, particularly among <strong>the</strong><br />

young people who may not know our stories and histories.<br />

While <strong>the</strong> museum on Grand Turk already serves<br />

this purpose, with <strong>the</strong> majority <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> population and<br />

economic activity on Providenciales, <strong>the</strong> museum must<br />

expand its presence <strong>the</strong>re if we seek to stay relevant in<br />

<strong>the</strong> national spotlight.<br />

A national museum on Providenciales can be an<br />

invaluable resource to all residents and visitors. Not only<br />

would it have a permanent exhibition space with areas<br />

dedicated to sectors <strong>of</strong> island life including art, history<br />

and <strong>the</strong> environment, but also include temporary exhibition<br />

spaces for special in-depth and traveling exhibits.<br />

This museum would include a gift shop and café to make<br />

<strong>the</strong> experience a pleasant one for visitors. Finally, it would<br />

have a resource center to encourage historical research.<br />

Such a place would function as both an educational<br />

and entertaining space in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos community.<br />

The new museum gallery will be community-formed,<br />

community-driven and community-supported and be a<br />

genesis for cultural, heritage and historic research and<br />

revitalization <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />

The development <strong>of</strong> an expanded museum facility<br />

at our campus on Grace Bay does not signal our abandonment<br />

<strong>of</strong> Grand Turk. The National Museum remains<br />

committed to our location on our nation’s capital.<br />

While <strong>the</strong> focus <strong>of</strong> this introduction has been on <strong>the</strong><br />

planned expansion in Providenciales, this issue features<br />

two unrelated projects on Grand Turk. In <strong>the</strong> first, Matt<br />

Williamson describes <strong>the</strong> beginnings (and future plans)<br />

for research on Over Island Cemetery. In <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r, we<br />

learn about early photographers on Grand Turk from one<br />

<strong>of</strong> our long-time contributors Jeffrey Dodge.<br />

The history and heritage <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong><br />

is diverse, as our readers surely know. We will continue to<br />

make sure that diversity is highlighted in future editions<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Astrolabe and in our museum facilities. a<br />

Join <strong>the</strong> Museum<br />

Become a Member <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National<br />

Museum and receive a year’s subscription to <strong>Times</strong><br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> (which includes Astrolabe), free<br />

admission to <strong>the</strong> Museum and o<strong>the</strong>r benefits.<br />

Senior (62+) $35<br />

Individual $50<br />

Family/Friend $100<br />

Sponsor $250<br />

Contributor $500<br />

Partner $750<br />

We have several options for joining:<br />

• Visit <strong>the</strong> Museum at our Providenciales location at<br />

The Village at Grace Bay or our Grand Turk location<br />

in Guinep House on Front Street<br />

• Visit our website at<br />

www.tcmuseum.org/membership-support/.<br />

*For U.S. residents, support <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Museum may be tax-deductible<br />

if you join via Friends <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National<br />

Museum, our affiliated institution and registered 501 (c) (3).<br />

See our website for more details:<br />

www.tcmuseum.org.<br />

RA SHAW DESIGNS<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2018</strong>/<strong>19</strong> 59


astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />

This image shows Structure 2 in Grand Turk’s Over Island Graveyard, located in <strong>the</strong> center <strong>of</strong> Town Salina, before vegetation has been cleared.<br />

Morning in <strong>the</strong> Garden <strong>of</strong><br />

Good and Evil<br />

Investigating Grand Turk’s Over Island Graveyard.<br />

Story & Photos By Mat<strong>the</strong>w A. Williamson, Ph.D.<br />

My apologies to <strong>the</strong> author John Berendt, who penned <strong>the</strong> book Midnight in <strong>the</strong> Garden <strong>of</strong> Good and<br />

Evil, for only slightly changing his title for this article. I think it’s appropriate though, given <strong>the</strong> work<br />

that I do and where I live. You see, I am a bioarchaeologist and I teach at Georgia Sou<strong>the</strong>rn University in<br />

Statesboro, Georgia, which is 50 miles northwest <strong>of</strong> Savannah—<strong>the</strong> city that provides <strong>the</strong> setting for Mr.<br />

Berendt’s book. As a frequent visitor to Savannah, I am well familiar with her attachment to <strong>the</strong> past and<br />

reverence for cemeteries (or “<strong>the</strong> garden” as Minerva calls it in <strong>the</strong> book).<br />

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astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />

A bioarchaeologist is someone who specializes in<br />

<strong>the</strong> study <strong>of</strong> prehistoric or historic period human skeletal<br />

remains for <strong>the</strong> purpose <strong>of</strong> learning things about <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

health and physical activity when <strong>the</strong>y were living. This<br />

is possible because bone is made <strong>of</strong> living tissue. That<br />

comes as a surprise to many folks because we tend to<br />

think <strong>of</strong> bone as “dead” since it is mineralized. In fact,<br />

<strong>the</strong>re are cells living within <strong>the</strong> rigid mineral and <strong>the</strong>y can<br />

react and adapt to mechanical, disease and nutritional<br />

stress.<br />

In 1890, an anatomist named Julius Wolff discovered<br />

that bones can reinforce <strong>the</strong>mselves in areas where<br />

<strong>the</strong>y are subjected to stress. This principle has become<br />

known as “Wolff’s Law.” For example, when muscles pull<br />

on bones to create movement, <strong>the</strong>y stimulate bone cells<br />

to lay down more mineral in order to streng<strong>the</strong>n <strong>the</strong><br />

bone where <strong>the</strong> muscle attaches. This is why someone<br />

who is at risk for osteoporosis is advised to participate in<br />

weight-resistance exercise. Bigger muscles mean a stronger<br />

pull on <strong>the</strong> bone which results in thicker bones. At<br />

one <strong>19</strong>th century cemetery where I was working, I uncovered<br />

<strong>the</strong> remains <strong>of</strong> two bro<strong>the</strong>rs, one with a more robust<br />

skeleton than <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r. By applying what we know about<br />

how larger muscles mean larger muscle attachment<br />

sites, I concluded that one bro<strong>the</strong>r had a more physically<br />

demanding lifestyle than <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r. This was justified<br />

when I found out later that <strong>the</strong> bro<strong>the</strong>r with <strong>the</strong> larger<br />

muscles had been a farmer.<br />

As you can imagine, I’ve spent a lot <strong>of</strong> time working<br />

in cemeteries in places like London, <strong>the</strong> midwest United<br />

States and all over Georgia, but bones aren’t <strong>the</strong> only<br />

things in a cemetery that can tell us something about <strong>the</strong><br />

lives <strong>of</strong> its occupants. Grave markers, inscriptions and<br />

decorations <strong>of</strong>fer insight on how <strong>the</strong> person wanted to<br />

be remembered or how <strong>the</strong>ir family wanted <strong>the</strong>m remembered.<br />

Moreover, materials used for <strong>the</strong> grave marker<br />

can be a symbol <strong>of</strong> economic status and <strong>the</strong> location <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> grave is <strong>of</strong>ten an indication <strong>of</strong> social status. In many<br />

churches around <strong>the</strong> world, <strong>the</strong> burial sites closest to <strong>the</strong><br />

altar were reserved only for <strong>the</strong> most influential or <strong>the</strong><br />

most holy.<br />

I first became interested in <strong>the</strong> Over Island Graveyard<br />

located in <strong>the</strong> center <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> town salina on Grand Turk<br />

after I had heard about it from Dr. Donald Keith. My wife<br />

and I visited <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> for <strong>the</strong> first time<br />

in 2014 and during that visit we stopped at <strong>the</strong> museum<br />

Anatomist Julius Wolff discovered that bones reinforce <strong>the</strong>mselves in<br />

areas where <strong>the</strong>y are subjected to stress. This principle is helpful to<br />

<strong>the</strong> study <strong>of</strong> bioarchaeology.<br />

on Providenciales. After a lovely tour given by <strong>the</strong> most<br />

friendly and knowledgeable manager, Candianne Williams,<br />

I was inspired to think about how I could get involved<br />

with <strong>the</strong> museum. Once I returned home, I started to educate<br />

myself about <strong>the</strong> prehistory and history <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> TCI.<br />

I found several interesting books and monographs and<br />

discovered that <strong>the</strong> TCI has been <strong>the</strong> subject <strong>of</strong> archaeological<br />

and historical inquiry for many years by some<br />

excellent scholars. I <strong>the</strong>n realized that something I had<br />

begun at <strong>the</strong> Georgia Sou<strong>the</strong>rn University museum might<br />

also be <strong>of</strong> use to <strong>the</strong> TCI museum. It’s a monograph<br />

series that’s available free through our website.<br />

In archaeology, it’s common to get involved in projects<br />

that may not create enough data or be unique enough to<br />

warrant publication in a peer-reviewed scientific journal.<br />

Yet, <strong>the</strong> project or data may still have some significance<br />

to o<strong>the</strong>r archaeologists or scientists who are interested<br />

in <strong>the</strong> region or time period. I decided to present <strong>the</strong><br />

idea to Dr. Keith that we could publish monographs that<br />

cover archaeology, history, natural history and culture <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> that anyone can access for<br />

free though <strong>the</strong> museum’s website. He accepted my <strong>of</strong>fer<br />

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astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />

with enthusiasm and so “The<br />

Occasional Papers <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks &<br />

Caicos Museum” began.<br />

As we discussed possible<br />

manuscripts for publication,<br />

he sent me what field notes,<br />

maps and photographs he<br />

had compiled <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> “over-island<br />

graveyard.” Of course, this<br />

piqued my interest. In particular,<br />

I wanted to examine one tomb<br />

that was missing a large section<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> cover making it possible<br />

to see down into <strong>the</strong> grave shaft.<br />

From <strong>the</strong> photograph, I wasn’t<br />

able to see any human remains<br />

or artifacts. However, it was clear<br />

that if <strong>the</strong>re is ever any interest<br />

in identifying who is buried <strong>the</strong>re,<br />

<strong>the</strong>n whatever remains are in that<br />

grave must be recovered and protected<br />

as soon as possible. Continued exposure to <strong>the</strong><br />

elements will only accelerate <strong>the</strong> bone decay which will<br />

render any attempt at extracting DNA impossible.<br />

Like <strong>the</strong> exposed tomb, it was evident that <strong>the</strong> entire<br />

graveyard has been abandoned. Many gravestones are<br />

missing and a couple <strong>of</strong> walls surrounding plots have<br />

collapsed. Inscriptions on <strong>the</strong> existing gravestones have<br />

completely eroded from <strong>the</strong> s<strong>of</strong>t limestone over time and<br />

many headstones are missing. It’s impossible to determine<br />

who’s buried <strong>the</strong>re if you’re going to use headstone<br />

inscriptions. There is a small ridge running through <strong>the</strong><br />

graveyard that is eroding and has probably caused <strong>the</strong><br />

destruction <strong>of</strong> at least two burial sites. In one area, <strong>the</strong><br />

sand has disappeared to <strong>the</strong> point where <strong>the</strong>re is a large<br />

hole within which you can see <strong>the</strong> bottom <strong>of</strong> a gravestone.<br />

A small herd <strong>of</strong> donkeys has taken up residence in<br />

and around <strong>the</strong> graveyard and <strong>the</strong>y’ve created several<br />

trails between various areas. They are contributing to <strong>the</strong><br />

graveyard’s decay as <strong>the</strong>y trample fallen gravestones and<br />

structures. Lying on <strong>the</strong> ground along one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> donkey<br />

trails I found a small stone fragment that had a “W” carved<br />

into it and what is also probably an “F”. It wasn’t located<br />

anywhere near an obvious grave and <strong>the</strong>re wasn’t enough<br />

remaining to determine for sure if it is part <strong>of</strong> a headstone.<br />

This is a large erosion hole found on <strong>the</strong> ridge at <strong>the</strong> Grand Turk Over Island Graveyard. Note <strong>the</strong><br />

exposed bottom <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> grave marker.<br />

This is <strong>the</strong> stone fragment with inscribed W and probable F that was<br />

found lying on <strong>the</strong> ground along one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> donkey trails.<br />

I decided that I wanted to help preserve <strong>the</strong> graveyard<br />

and so I put toge<strong>the</strong>r a plan that builds on Dr. Keith’s<br />

work. (You can read about what he found in <strong>the</strong> Spring<br />

2013 <strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> Astrolabe entitled “The Island<br />

Within <strong>the</strong> Island.”) Currently, <strong>the</strong>re is no fence surrounding<br />

<strong>the</strong> graveyard so one goal is to determine its<br />

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astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />

boundaries. This requires removal <strong>of</strong> vegetation that has<br />

grown up and obscured most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> area. That will permit<br />

creating a map <strong>of</strong> each and every grave marker, tomb,<br />

wall and limestone block.<br />

Once <strong>the</strong> map is completed, <strong>the</strong>n a search for<br />

unmarked graves can begin possibly through <strong>the</strong> use <strong>of</strong><br />

ground penetrating radar. The “GPR” device is dragged<br />

along on a small sled as it transmits sound waves into<br />

<strong>the</strong> ground. As <strong>the</strong> waves are reflected back, a graphical<br />

readout <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> soil density is created. Because grave<br />

shafts have been filled in with soil that is less dense than<br />

<strong>the</strong> surrounding, undisturbed soil it creates a distinct<br />

feedback signal that can be detected by <strong>the</strong> radar. There<br />

are caveats though—sometimes <strong>the</strong> feature turns out to<br />

be an anomaly or an old tree root. Moreover, it can’t produce<br />

a picture <strong>of</strong> a skeleton lying in <strong>the</strong> ground. Still, GPR<br />

devices can significantly reduce <strong>the</strong> time spent searching<br />

for graves even if occasionally <strong>the</strong> “hit” in <strong>the</strong> readout<br />

turns out to be nothing.<br />

After a complete map is created, decisions will need<br />

to be made regarding whe<strong>the</strong>r or not to construct a permanent<br />

fence, place signage including a historical marker<br />

explaining <strong>the</strong> graveyard’s history, and determining who<br />

will take care <strong>of</strong> graveyard maintenance. As Dr. Keith<br />

reported in his article, <strong>the</strong>re is already an ordinance<br />

issued in 1861 that empowers commissioners to use<br />

funds from <strong>the</strong> public treasury to pay for maintenance!<br />

Ano<strong>the</strong>r major issue to be resolved is whe<strong>the</strong>r or not<br />

<strong>the</strong> community supports <strong>the</strong> identification <strong>of</strong> who is buried<br />

in each grave. Unless a map <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> cemetery can be<br />

found that shows each grave labeled with <strong>the</strong> occupant’s<br />

name, <strong>the</strong> only way to establish positive identification will<br />

be though DNA comparison. This would be a major undertaking<br />

because it would require excavation and reburial<br />

<strong>of</strong> each grave and many graves would be destroyed in <strong>the</strong><br />

process.<br />

We do have a general idea <strong>of</strong> who is probably buried<br />

<strong>the</strong>re. Former Museum Director Pat Saxton found death<br />

records from 1825 to 1835 that list at least 95 individuals<br />

buried “at <strong>the</strong> island” or “on <strong>the</strong> island” referring to<br />

<strong>the</strong> Over Island Graveyard. According to those records,<br />

adults, children, whites, blacks, slaves and freedmen<br />

are all buried <strong>the</strong>re, with recognizable surnames like<br />

Lightbourne, Misick and Stubbs.<br />

Also among those buried is Reverend John Turtle, <strong>the</strong><br />

second Methodist minister to be assigned to Grand Turk.<br />

(According to church records, Roger Moore was <strong>the</strong> first<br />

assigned to “Turks Island.”) Reverend Turtle was born<br />

in Ipswich, England on June 9, 1793. A conversation he<br />

had when he was 18 caused him to realize how he had<br />

neglected prayer in his life and motivated him “ . . . to<br />

break <strong>of</strong>f my sins, desert my ungodly companions, and<br />

devote myself to his service.” After being ordained sometime<br />

during <strong>the</strong> following six years, he was appointed to<br />

<strong>the</strong> Bahamas by <strong>the</strong> Methodist Conference <strong>of</strong> 1817. He<br />

felt a strong call to serve as a missionary and so was quite<br />

excited about this new appointment as he left England on<br />

April 16, 1817. After 28 days at sea, he arrived in Nassau<br />

on May 14, 1818. Reverend Turtle <strong>the</strong>n set about his<br />

duties <strong>of</strong> evangelization travelling <strong>the</strong> Eleu<strong>the</strong>ra circuit<br />

on horseback, boat and occasionally walking up to 20 or<br />

more miles. According to one account, he developed a<br />

painful swelling in his legs causing him to be confined to<br />

his home. In 18<strong>19</strong>, after getting married, he visited Grand<br />

Turk for <strong>the</strong> first time. He continued to struggle with his<br />

health to <strong>the</strong> point where he could not fulfill an appointment<br />

to Jamaica and so he returned to <strong>the</strong> Bahamas.<br />

Reverend Turtle continued to preach in <strong>the</strong> Bahamas until<br />

his last appointment on Grand Turk, where he died presumably<br />

from consumption on August 16, 1825 at <strong>the</strong><br />

age <strong>of</strong> 32.<br />

Dr. Michael Pateman was chosen as <strong>the</strong> new museum<br />

director around <strong>the</strong> time I was developing my plan to<br />

map <strong>the</strong> graveyard and, fortunately, he expressed his<br />

full support and <strong>of</strong>fered his assistance moving forward.<br />

After an impromptu visit to Grand Turk in June to get<br />

an idea <strong>of</strong> how I would begin and with permission from<br />

<strong>the</strong> Department <strong>of</strong> Environmental and Cultural Resources<br />

(DECR), I ga<strong>the</strong>red my gear and headed out for Grand<br />

Turk again in July <strong>2018</strong>.<br />

I know that most archaeological fieldwork in <strong>the</strong><br />

<strong>Islands</strong> is carried out in <strong>the</strong> fall, but I have a significant<br />

teaching load that forces me to conduct all <strong>of</strong> my work in<br />

<strong>the</strong> summer. However, I do live in Georgia so while I can’t<br />

say <strong>the</strong> heat doesn’t affect me at all, I am somewhat used<br />

to dealing with it. I decided I would focus my mapping<br />

efforts in <strong>the</strong> morning before <strong>the</strong> heat really cranked up.<br />

Using Dr. Keith’s map, I chose a burial feature consisting<br />

<strong>of</strong> one elevated tomb surrounded by a low wall. It was<br />

easy to spot since it was one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> few that was not completely<br />

overgrown.<br />

First, I had to establish a datum (which is a perma-<br />

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Above: After a full day <strong>of</strong> clearing <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> tomb and wall, this is <strong>the</strong><br />

appearance <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> graveyard’s Structure 2.<br />

Left: This shows <strong>the</strong> possible stucco found on <strong>the</strong> outside <strong>of</strong> a tomb<br />

and on <strong>the</strong> sides <strong>of</strong> a few plot walls.<br />

nent reference point that’s used for creating a grid and<br />

for measuring) by hammering a metal rod about a foot<br />

into <strong>the</strong> ground nearby. It was now time to begin removal<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> overgrowth. I was equipped with pruning shears,<br />

a hand saw and branch clippers, but <strong>the</strong> vegetation was<br />

dense and <strong>the</strong> human-eating, devilishly thorned acacia<br />

bushes were not going to be dismissed without a fight!<br />

Fortunately, I was assisted by Vanessa Pateman, a graduate<br />

student in museum studies from <strong>the</strong> University <strong>of</strong><br />

Western Illinois. Her hard work and enthusiasm was very<br />

much appreciated. I also want to thank Dr. Pateman for<br />

his help clearing <strong>the</strong> brush during one especially hot day.<br />

We spent <strong>the</strong> entire first day just clearing <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong><br />

tomb and wall. The next day, we were able to set up a<br />

square using spikes at <strong>the</strong> corners and string to connect<br />

<strong>the</strong>m. Vanessa and I took turns measuring <strong>the</strong> position<br />

<strong>of</strong> limestone blocks and <strong>the</strong> dimensions <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> wall and<br />

tomb. Archaeologists use a grid to create a record <strong>of</strong><br />

where artifacts are found and to permit reconstruction <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> site in <strong>the</strong> report. The typical grid square size is one<br />

meter by one meter but it can be adjusted to fit <strong>the</strong> needs<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> project. In our situation, a six by six meter square<br />

was <strong>the</strong> minimum size needed to enclose <strong>the</strong> wall around<br />

<strong>the</strong> plot.<br />

A total <strong>of</strong> five days in <strong>the</strong> “garden” was all I could<br />

spend on this trip, during which time Vanessa and I were<br />

able to map two grid squares. Dr. Keith estimated that<br />

<strong>the</strong> area <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> graveyard is 2,000 square meters, so you<br />

can see that this project won’t be completed any time<br />

soon, but that’s typical in archaeology. I can’t say we<br />

made any discoveries that changed our understanding<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> graveyard but <strong>the</strong>re was one unexpected thing. I<br />

noticed a thin, white material on <strong>the</strong> outside <strong>of</strong> a tomb<br />

and on <strong>the</strong> sides <strong>of</strong> a few plot walls. It looks like it could<br />

be white stucco but I couldn’t be sure. If it was, it represents<br />

an additional cost above what was necessary to<br />

build a plain limestone box and would have gleamed a<br />

brilliant white in <strong>the</strong> TCI sun. On my last day, I walked <strong>the</strong><br />

entire grounds and examined <strong>the</strong> open tomb I mentioned<br />

earlier. I couldn’t see any remains but it was obvious that<br />

it’s suffering from decay like <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>rs. Now that I’m<br />

back at <strong>the</strong> university, my time is spent planning a return<br />

to <strong>the</strong> graveyard in July to continue adding to <strong>the</strong> map<br />

and doing whatever archival work I can to help us tell <strong>the</strong><br />

story <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> people buried <strong>the</strong>re. a<br />

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astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />

This is a real photo postcard (RPPC) <strong>of</strong> a canal leading from <strong>the</strong> sea to salt ponds on Grand Turk in <strong>19</strong>05. Both <strong>the</strong> photograph and <strong>the</strong> above<br />

postcard are attributed to Edmund N. Coverley. This same photograph was used again in <strong>19</strong>05 to produce a machine printed postcard.<br />

EDMUND NEALE COVERLEY<br />

A Glimpse <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Past<br />

Early photographers on Grand Turk.<br />

By Jeffrey Dodge<br />

Edmund Neale Coverley, one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most active early photographers on Grand Turk at <strong>the</strong> beginning <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> 20th century, has been <strong>the</strong> subject <strong>of</strong> several past articles in <strong>the</strong> Astrolabe. He is well known because<br />

many <strong>of</strong> his photographs were used to produce early picture postcards.<br />

The earliest postcards attributed to Coverley were probably produced and printed by <strong>the</strong> photographer<br />

himself in his darkroom on photographic paper designed with a pre-printed postcard back. These real<br />

photo postcards (RPPC) were produced between <strong>19</strong>04 and <strong>19</strong>06.<br />

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EDMUND NEALE COVERLEY<br />

At least five picture postcards <strong>of</strong> scenes on Grand<br />

Turk were produced in <strong>19</strong>04 by <strong>the</strong> British firm John<br />

Walker & Co. Ltd. from photographs taken by Edmund N.<br />

Coverley or possibly an unknown photographer—probably<br />

an itinerant photographer who traveled throughout<br />

<strong>the</strong> islands on behalf <strong>of</strong> this company for <strong>the</strong> sole purpose<br />

<strong>of</strong> taking photographs that <strong>the</strong> company would use<br />

to produce postcards <strong>the</strong>y would <strong>the</strong>n sell to island merchants.<br />

John Walker & Co. produced picture postcards<br />

<strong>of</strong> Bermuda, Nassau and Barbados as well as Grand Turk<br />

during this period.<br />

Although Coverley is <strong>the</strong> best known photographer<br />

on Grand Turk in <strong>the</strong> early 20th century, <strong>the</strong>re were o<strong>the</strong>rs.<br />

Some remain unknown, but two have been identified.<br />

In <strong>the</strong> <strong>19</strong>20s, two residents <strong>of</strong> Grand Turk began photographing<br />

scenes on <strong>the</strong> island and turning some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

photographs into picture postcards. The photographers<br />

were John Copeland Crisson, a native <strong>of</strong> Grand Turk, and<br />

Robert O. Challis, a Londoner who moved to Grand Turk<br />

around <strong>19</strong>25 in <strong>the</strong> employ <strong>of</strong> Imperial & International<br />

Communications, Ltd.<br />

John Copeland Crisson was born on Grand Turk in<br />

1864. He married Adelaid Spencer <strong>the</strong>re in 1868 and<br />

<strong>the</strong>y had two children, Charles Hayward and Herbert<br />

This family portrait pictures John Copeland Crisson, Mary Adelaid<br />

Spencer Crisson, Herbert, John (Jack), Frank and Elodie in Bermuda<br />

about <strong>19</strong>10.<br />

Spencer. John C. Crisson was <strong>the</strong> editor and proprietor <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> Weekly Record newspaper which he started in 1892.<br />

However, it was short-lived and ceased operating 18<br />

months later. It is not know what Crisson did prior to his<br />

work as a newspaperman.<br />

The Crisson family left Grand Turk for Bermuda about<br />

1896 where <strong>the</strong>y had three more children, John “Jack”<br />

E<strong>the</strong>lbert, Elodie Ophelia and Frank Noel. Exactly what<br />

John C. Crisson did while in Bermuda is uncertain, but it<br />

is documented that in <strong>19</strong>07 he was first mate aboard <strong>the</strong><br />

schooner Priscilla when it made a trip from Bermuda to<br />

Grand Turk to deliver a cargo <strong>of</strong> lumber and returned to<br />

Bermuda with a shipment <strong>of</strong> salt from South Caicos. John<br />

C. Crisson wrote and published <strong>the</strong> story <strong>of</strong> this journey,<br />

so it is possible he also wrote o<strong>the</strong>r articles or stories—<br />

possibly for newspapers. Descendants report that Crisson<br />

was involved in <strong>the</strong> salvage business while in Bermuda.<br />

When John Crisson returned to Grand Turk is uncertain,<br />

but it must have been before he became editor <strong>of</strong><br />

The Chronicle and Dependency News in <strong>19</strong>24. The government<br />

retaliated against <strong>the</strong> newspaper for critical<br />

articles it published, forcing it out <strong>of</strong> business in <strong>19</strong>30. In<br />

addition to his newspaper work, Crisson made numerous<br />

voyages between Grand Turk and Jamaica on his ketch<br />

Kariette. Denis Murphy in his memoirs, My Years in The<br />

Sun: Island Memoirs, referred to uncle “Johnny” Crisson<br />

as a photographer and amateur boat builder.<br />

Most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> known John Copeland Crisson photographs<br />

are <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> damage on Grand Turk caused by <strong>the</strong><br />

hurricane <strong>of</strong> September 16, <strong>19</strong>26. This storm, known as<br />

<strong>the</strong> Great Miami Hurricane, passed just 10 miles north<br />

<strong>of</strong> Grand Turk with winds <strong>of</strong> 150 mph. John Crisson captured<br />

<strong>the</strong> damage in a series <strong>of</strong> photographs. He used<br />

some to produce real photo postcards, probably printing<br />

<strong>the</strong>m himself on Kodak AZO paper having a pre-printed<br />

postcard back. Some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se postcards he embossed<br />

with “Crisson Photo” on <strong>the</strong> lower right corner. It is not<br />

known how many photographs or postcards Crisson may<br />

have produced during his life.<br />

John Copeland Crisson was a ship’s captain, newspaper<br />

man, photographer and amateur shipwright. He could<br />

also play <strong>the</strong> violin and speak Spanish. John Copeland<br />

Crisson died and was buried on Grand Turk in <strong>19</strong>39. His<br />

wife Mary died in <strong>19</strong>44 and was buried in Bermuda—perhaps<br />

having moved <strong>the</strong>re after her husband’s death to be<br />

near her daughter Elodie and son John “Jack” Crisson.<br />

66 www.timespub.tc


astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />

EDMUND NEALE COVERLEY<br />

Top: This photo captures hurricane damage to a government <strong>of</strong>fice on Grand Turk in September <strong>19</strong>26. (Notice “Crisson Photo” embossed in<br />

lower right corner.)<br />

Bottom: This image shows <strong>the</strong> schooner David Morris on <strong>the</strong> beach in Grand Turk after <strong>the</strong> hurricane <strong>of</strong> September <strong>19</strong>26.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2018</strong>/<strong>19</strong> 67


astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />

Robert Ormond Challis was born in London, England<br />

in <strong>19</strong>07. He left England around <strong>19</strong>24 for Jamaica and<br />

Grand Turk as an employee <strong>of</strong> Imperial & International<br />

Communications Ltd (renamed Cable & Wireless Ltd.<br />

in <strong>19</strong>34). He married Kathleen Mable Murphy on Grand<br />

Turk four years later. Kathleen was <strong>the</strong> sister <strong>of</strong> Denis<br />

H. Murphy, <strong>the</strong> author <strong>of</strong> My Years in <strong>the</strong> Sun: Island<br />

Memoirs. In addition to his work as a “cable engineer,”<br />

Robert Challis was a photographer and a member <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

“Cables”—<strong>the</strong> Imperial & International Communications<br />

Ltd. soccer team. It is interesting to note that Robert’s<br />

fa<strong>the</strong>r, Ormond E. Challis, was a recognized photographer<br />

in <strong>the</strong> United Kingdom and a member <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Royal<br />

Photographic Society.<br />

Most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> known Challis photographs were <strong>of</strong> general<br />

scenes around Grand Turk. For example, he took<br />

photographs <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> salt ponds near Government Wharf,<br />

St. Mary’s Church, St. Thomas’ Church, <strong>the</strong> east side <strong>of</strong><br />

Grand Turk, North Pond, “Little Bluff,” <strong>the</strong> cable <strong>of</strong>fice,<br />

etc. These were taken between <strong>19</strong>25 and <strong>19</strong>29. Challis<br />

used some <strong>of</strong> his photographs to produce postcards.<br />

Although <strong>the</strong> postcards were real photo postcards (RPPC),<br />

Challis didn’t print <strong>the</strong>m himself. Instead, he sent his<br />

negatives to at least three different British firms to have<br />

postcards produced for him. Most <strong>of</strong> his postcards are<br />

only identifiable because Challis himself or a collector<br />

wrote Challis’ initials and <strong>the</strong> date on <strong>the</strong> back as well as<br />

a title identifying <strong>the</strong> scene pictured on <strong>the</strong> front. At least<br />

one <strong>of</strong> Challis’ photographs, titled “Sunset,” can be found<br />

in <strong>the</strong> collection <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> National Archives UK.<br />

Robert O. Challis and his wife Kathleen had two<br />

children—daughter Lorna was born on Grand Turk in<br />

<strong>19</strong>31 and son David was born in Halifax, Nova Scotia<br />

in <strong>19</strong>36—about two years after Cable and Wireless Ltd.<br />

transferred <strong>the</strong> family to Canada. It is possible that <strong>the</strong><br />

Challis family moved back to Grand Turk in late <strong>19</strong>38,<br />

but records confirming this are lacking. However <strong>the</strong>re<br />

is photograph <strong>of</strong> Robert Challis taken on Grand Turk in<br />

<strong>19</strong>39 that was published in <strong>the</strong> Cable and Wireless staff<br />

magazine Zodiac. Sometime before <strong>19</strong>47, <strong>the</strong> Challis family<br />

moved to Bermuda—possibly still employed by Cable<br />

and Wireless Ltd. Robert Challis died in <strong>19</strong>59—his wife<br />

Kathleen passed away a year later—both are buried at St.<br />

Paul’s Church Cemetery in Paget Parish, Bermuda. Challis’<br />

ROBERT ORMOND CHALLIS<br />

The Grand Turk Athletic Club and “Cables” (striped shirts) soccer teams pose on Boxing Day <strong>19</strong>26. Robert O. Challis is on far right.<br />

68 www.timespub.tc


astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />

ROBERT ORMOND CHALLIS<br />

From top: Robert Challis photo-postcards <strong>of</strong> a coconut plantation at “Little Bluff” in <strong>19</strong>26 and Grand Turk’s Government Wharf in <strong>19</strong>27.<br />

photographs <strong>of</strong> his years in Canada and Bermuda have<br />

not been found and it is unknown whe<strong>the</strong>r or not he continued<br />

his interest in photography after leaving Grand<br />

Turk in <strong>19</strong>34. a<br />

All <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> photographs and postcards by John Crisson<br />

and Robert Challis known to <strong>the</strong> author were found in <strong>the</strong><br />

collection <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum. There<br />

are probably many more as yet identified photographs by<br />

<strong>the</strong>se two men in private collections.<br />

The author would like to thank <strong>the</strong> following people<br />

for <strong>the</strong>ir helpful contributions to this article: Gwendolyn<br />

Crisson (related by marriage to John Copeland Crisson);<br />

Edward C. Harris, PhD, Bermuda Maritime Museum,<br />

Bermuda; Lisa Talbot, staff, Turks & Caicos National<br />

Museum.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2018</strong>/<strong>19</strong> 69


astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />

Museum matters<br />

History and Cultural Heritage Quiz<br />

The TCI celebrated Heritage Month <strong>2018</strong> under <strong>the</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong>me, “Celebrating from whence we’ve come.” As part<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> event, <strong>the</strong> Museum held its third annual History<br />

and Cultural Heritage Quiz for secondary schools on<br />

October 4, in collaboration with <strong>the</strong> government’s<br />

Departments <strong>of</strong> Culture and Education.<br />

Eight schools were competing for <strong>the</strong> Challenge<br />

Trophy, with last year’s winners, Raymond Gardiner<br />

High School, determined to take it back to North Caicos<br />

for ano<strong>the</strong>r year. Also enticing was <strong>the</strong> first prize threeday<br />

trip to Jamaica to visit <strong>the</strong> UNESCO World Heritage<br />

sites <strong>of</strong> Blue and John Crow Mountain, museums, great<br />

houses and o<strong>the</strong>r historical and cultural heritage sites.<br />

The second place winners will spend <strong>the</strong> day immersed<br />

in history and cultural heritage on one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks &<br />

Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />

Participating teams were from: HJ Robinson High<br />

School on Grand Turk; Marjorie Basden High School on<br />

South Caicos; Raymond Gardiner High School on North<br />

Caicos; and Long Bay High School, TCI Middle School,<br />

British West Indies Collegiate, Maranatha Academy and<br />

Holy Family Academy on Providenciales.<br />

In opening remarks, Hon. Karen Malcolm, Minister<br />

<strong>of</strong> Education, Culture, Library Services and Youth, said,<br />

“It is through our celebrations that we recognize <strong>the</strong><br />

work done by our forefa<strong>the</strong>rs and <strong>the</strong> rich heritage legacies<br />

<strong>the</strong>y have left for our enjoyment.” Hon. Premier<br />

Sharlene Cartwright Robinson shared her personal love<br />

<strong>of</strong> history and had words <strong>of</strong> congratulations for <strong>the</strong><br />

Museum, collaborating government departments and<br />

sponsors <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> event.<br />

For an hour, contestants wrote <strong>the</strong> answers to <strong>the</strong><br />

questions put to <strong>the</strong>m in quick succession by Semifinals<br />

Quizmaster Talisha Simons, Senior Director, Corporate<br />

Communications & Public Affairs at Fortis TCI Limited.<br />

HJ Robinson High School and Raymond Gardiner High<br />

School were <strong>the</strong> two schools who made it to <strong>the</strong> finals.<br />

Cheryl Forman, CEO <strong>of</strong> Peak Consulting Ltd., was<br />

<strong>the</strong> quizmaster for <strong>the</strong> keenly competitive and exciting<br />

finals. The judges—Director <strong>of</strong> Education Edward<br />

Howell, Director <strong>of</strong> Culture Ludwina Fulford, Museum<br />

Director Dr. Michael Pateman and Luc Clerveaux,<br />

The History and Cultural Heritage Quiz winning team from HJ<br />

Robinson High School displays <strong>the</strong>ir trophy, (from left) Edgar<br />

Howell, Ruth Forbes, Naethia Williams, Narisel Swann, Racquel<br />

Simons, Ludwina Fulford, Arissa Williams, Michael Pateman.<br />

Assistant Director Law and Enforcement, DECR—kept<br />

<strong>the</strong> anxious audience abreast <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> points at <strong>the</strong> end<br />

<strong>of</strong> each round. In <strong>the</strong> end, HJ Robinson High School was<br />

<strong>the</strong> winner and <strong>the</strong> trophy will now spend <strong>the</strong> year in<br />

Grand Turk.<br />

Thank you to our sponsors: Fortis TCI, interCaribbean<br />

Airways, TC Reef Fund, Department <strong>of</strong> Education,<br />

Department <strong>of</strong> Culture, Turks & Caicos Taxi Association,<br />

British West Indies Collegiate, and <strong>the</strong> quizmasters,<br />

judges, facilitators, caterers and support teams. a<br />

Story & Photos By Candianne Williams<br />

Middle Caicos Heritage Month Event<br />

The Museum supported <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National<br />

Trust with information for <strong>the</strong> informational signage on<br />

<strong>the</strong> Lucayans, <strong>the</strong> TCI’s first inhabitants. This signboard<br />

was unveiled at <strong>the</strong> Middle Caicos Heritage Month<br />

event held at <strong>the</strong> Conch Bar Caves under <strong>the</strong> <strong>the</strong>me,<br />

“Celebrating 1000+ years <strong>of</strong> history.”<br />

Museum Director Michael Pateman explains <strong>the</strong> new mobile<br />

Lucayan exhibit to onlookers in Middle Caicos.<br />

70 www.timespub.tc


astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />

Museum matters<br />

Dr. Michael Pateman gave a presentation about <strong>the</strong><br />

lifestyle <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Lucayans using a specially created educational<br />

exhibit. The Lucayan exhibit kit is <strong>the</strong> first <strong>of</strong><br />

a series <strong>of</strong> kits created by <strong>the</strong> Museum to enable us to<br />

facilitate <strong>the</strong> school groups that visit our locations. a<br />

Story & Photo By Candianne Williams<br />

Heritage Month School Visits<br />

A visit to <strong>the</strong> Museum was one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ways students<br />

celebrated Heritage Month. We were happy to welcome<br />

students from: Holy Family Academy, Precious<br />

Treasures International School, Richmond Hill<br />

Preparatory School and Enid Capron Primary School at<br />

<strong>the</strong> museum in Grace Bay, Providenciales. Provo Middle<br />

School visited <strong>the</strong> Grand Turk Museum.<br />

After a tour <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Caicos Heritage House, one<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> students told me that he learned that, in <strong>the</strong><br />

past, nothing was wasted. The heritage tour guide had<br />

explained how <strong>the</strong> different parts <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> corn—including<br />

<strong>the</strong> husks—were used back in <strong>the</strong> day. He was<br />

amazed at how folks were able to put <strong>the</strong> little <strong>the</strong>y<br />

had to good use. a<br />

Story & Photo By Candianne Williams<br />

This group is “Team 1” on <strong>the</strong> South Bank archaeological dig.<br />

is developed. We also engaged in educational outreach<br />

and had student volunteers from British West Indies<br />

Collegiate and field visits from a number <strong>of</strong> private and<br />

public schools along with adult and homeschool volunteers<br />

from Provo residents and visitors.<br />

Windward Development Ltd., developer <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> site,<br />

is a major project underwriter and is facilitating <strong>the</strong><br />

scientific research. Additional funding support was provided<br />

by: TCI Reef Fund, <strong>the</strong> Anthropological Research<br />

Council and Sail Beluga. Supplies and logistical support<br />

were provided by TC Millwork and Blue Loos. a<br />

Museum Day Grand Turk<br />

On November 3, <strong>the</strong> Museum hosted a Museum Day<br />

community event on Grand Turk. Its purpose was to<br />

reintroduce residents to <strong>the</strong> Museum and to introduce<br />

new programming including <strong>the</strong> People <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

<strong>Islands</strong> Oral History Project, a Community Mosaic and<br />

a monthly Children’s Club to begin in January 20<strong>19</strong>.<br />

The day could not have happened without <strong>the</strong><br />

support <strong>of</strong> volunteers and sponsors: Carnival, Morris<br />

Cottingham, Blue Water Divers, Jack Shack, Oasis<br />

Divers, Turks Head Inne, Salt Raker, Digicel, Exclusive<br />

Escapes, White Sands Charters & Tours, Osprey Beach<br />

and Island Creations. a<br />

Story & Photos By Dr. Michael P. Pateman<br />

Students from Enid Capron Primary School visit <strong>the</strong> Museum’s<br />

Caicos Heritage House during National Heritage Month.<br />

South Bank Archaeological Dig<br />

The Museum partnered with Dr. Shaun Sullivan on<br />

an archaeological dig at <strong>the</strong> South Bank Site (P1) in<br />

Providenciales from October 15–27. The general<br />

objective <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> project was to acquire and preserve<br />

information and artifacts from <strong>the</strong> site, reflecting a<br />

component <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> TCI’s Lucayan culture before <strong>the</strong> site<br />

The Community Mosaic project was intriguing to many.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2018</strong>/<strong>19</strong> 71


food for thought<br />

Opposite page: Lorraine Kenlock, a.k.a. Chef Irie Dawta, has a lush backyard garden tucked into <strong>the</strong> heart <strong>of</strong> Providenciales.<br />

Above: The garden includes a huge variety <strong>of</strong> fresh, organic vegetables and herbs that she uses in her “farm to table” cooking.<br />

The Secret Garden<br />

Foodies are in for a unique experience at The Frenz Deck.<br />

Story & Photos By Dominique Rolle, Caya Hico Media<br />

Walking with my friend Lorraine Kenlock in her lush backyard garden, I feel transported from Grace Bay<br />

into <strong>the</strong> heartland <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos—North Caicos—or perhaps Jamaica where such fantastic foliage<br />

is a common way <strong>of</strong> life. Lorraine hails from that island, and though she relocated here in 2003, <strong>the</strong><br />

earthiness <strong>of</strong> her spirit and approach to life has not wilted.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2018</strong>/<strong>19</strong> 73


Chef Irie Dawta’s plants are like her children and she speaks to <strong>the</strong>m with <strong>the</strong> love all good farmers bestow upon <strong>the</strong>ir seedlings.<br />

It is rare to find such a gardening enthusiast on<br />

Providenciales where flat, dry land has made <strong>the</strong> beaches<br />

<strong>the</strong> most celebrated <strong>the</strong> planet earth has to <strong>of</strong>fer.<br />

However, behind <strong>the</strong> bustling tourism hub that is Grace<br />

Bay Road <strong>the</strong>re lies an oasis nestled on a picturesque lake<br />

where ducks, flamingos and egrets frolic in peace, hidden<br />

away from <strong>the</strong> crowds.<br />

Bursting with life and overflowing with organic goodies,<br />

Kenlock’s garden ranges in surprises from tomatoes,<br />

peppers, bananas and spinach, to peppermint, okra,<br />

papaya, and pumpkin. Her plants are like her children<br />

and she speaks to <strong>the</strong>m with <strong>the</strong> love all good farmers<br />

bestow upon <strong>the</strong>ir seedlings. With tenderness and care<br />

she waters, protects and ensures <strong>the</strong>ir growth. It is a<br />

hand-grown approach rarely applied to our modern food<br />

and an essential ingredient in <strong>the</strong> farm-to-table movement<br />

Kenlock is trailblazing here on Providenciales.<br />

Chef Irie Dawta and Lorraine Kenlock are technically<br />

<strong>the</strong> same person, but not really. Lorraine was an IT pr<strong>of</strong>essional,<br />

educated in Japan as well as her native Jamaica,<br />

and previously confined to a corporate life drastically different<br />

from <strong>the</strong> culinary and creative environment <strong>the</strong><br />

chef inspires on a daily basis. In 2011, <strong>the</strong> metamorphosis<br />

took place and Kenlock took on her new persona. It<br />

started as a made-to-order healthy (and mouth-wateringly<br />

delicious) salad business that quickly created a demand<br />

for her distinctive approach to food in <strong>the</strong> private chef<br />

villa market. It was <strong>the</strong>re, facing <strong>the</strong> hurdles <strong>of</strong> entering<br />

<strong>the</strong> pr<strong>of</strong>essional culinary industry that <strong>the</strong> legendary Chef<br />

Irie Dawta was born.<br />

Kenlock’s reputation as Ire Dawta precedes her. Just<br />

ask one <strong>of</strong> her devoted followers about <strong>the</strong> unparalleled<br />

dining experience she <strong>of</strong>fers and even <strong>the</strong> haughtiest <strong>of</strong><br />

foodies will be convinced before even trying her food.<br />

Still, seeing (or ra<strong>the</strong>r tasting) is believing. With many<br />

<strong>of</strong> us not quite in <strong>the</strong> private jet/private chef income<br />

bracket, Irie Dawta’s newest creation <strong>of</strong>fers <strong>the</strong> perfect<br />

opportunity to experience her delights.<br />

The Frenz Deck, a uniquely personal dining experience<br />

set smack in <strong>the</strong> chef’s lush backyard, <strong>of</strong>fers food<br />

enthusiasts <strong>the</strong> chance to dine at Kenlock’s home on <strong>the</strong><br />

freshest organic food from her garden, sampling her<br />

inspiring creations whilst overlooking <strong>the</strong> quiet Grace Bay<br />

lake you didn’t even know existed. Ask Chef Irie Dawta<br />

about <strong>the</strong> experience she <strong>of</strong>fers at <strong>the</strong> Frenz Deck and she<br />

might surprise you by insisting she prefers diners come<br />

with a sense <strong>of</strong> adventure, knowing that <strong>the</strong>ir well-being<br />

is going to be taken care <strong>of</strong>. She says, “Frenz Deck is<br />

for <strong>the</strong> adventurous, open-minded person who wants an<br />

experience that’s not bottled. Every experience on <strong>the</strong><br />

74 www.timespub.tc


Above: The Frenz Deck is a personal dining experience in <strong>the</strong> chef’s lush Brew backyard. ad May 2017_Layout 1 5/11/17 10:51 AM Page 1<br />

Below: It <strong>of</strong>fers food enthusiasts <strong>the</strong> chance to dine on Chef Irie Dawta’s inspiring creations.<br />

Turk’s Head Brewery<br />

Brewery Tours Monday-Friday<br />

11AM, 1PM, 3PM<br />

$15/pp<br />

Enjoy a complimentary selection <strong>of</strong> local craft beer<br />

after your tour!<br />

deck is different. Guests will have to go to our website to<br />

reserve a seat and pay a deposit. There’s one sitting per<br />

evening with only 10 seats, sometimes 14, so a deposit<br />

is always required.”<br />

You don’t need a menu for this incredible experience<br />

as Chef Irie Dawta does her homework prior to <strong>the</strong><br />

evening (or afternoon) and follows where her artistic and<br />

culinary whims lead. Go <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> beaten track and into <strong>the</strong><br />

secret garden <strong>of</strong> one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most exciting culinary minds<br />

<strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos has to <strong>of</strong>fer. Visit www.frenzdeckandiriesrest.com<br />

for more information. a<br />

Email tours@turksheadbeer.com<br />

Call 649.941.3637 x 1005 to book<br />

www.turksheadbrewery.tc<br />

52 Universal Dr.<br />

Providenciales, TCI<br />

TOUR TASTE SHOP<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2018</strong>/<strong>19</strong> 75


about <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong><br />

Map provided courtesy Wavey Line Publishing. Their navigation charts and decorative and historic maps <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>, <strong>the</strong><br />

Bahamas, and Hispaniola are available in shops throughout <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>. Visit www.waveylinepublishing.com.<br />

Where we are<br />

The Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> lie some 575 miles sou<strong>the</strong>ast<br />

<strong>of</strong> Miami — approximately 1 1/2 hours flying time — with<br />

<strong>the</strong> Bahamas about 30 miles to <strong>the</strong> northwest and <strong>the</strong><br />

Dominican Republic some 100 miles to <strong>the</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>ast.<br />

The country consists <strong>of</strong> two island groups separated<br />

by <strong>the</strong> 22-mile wide Columbus Passage. To <strong>the</strong> west are<br />

<strong>the</strong> Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>: West Caicos, Providenciales, North<br />

Caicos, Middle Caicos, East Caicos, and South Caicos. To<br />

<strong>the</strong> east are <strong>the</strong> Turks <strong>Islands</strong>: Grand Turk and Salt Cay.<br />

The Turks & Caicos total 166 square miles <strong>of</strong> land<br />

area on eight islands and 40 small cays. The country’s<br />

population is approximately 40,000.<br />

Getting here<br />

There are international airports on Grand Turk, North<br />

Caicos, Providenciales, and South Caicos, with domestic<br />

airports on all <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> islands except East Caicos.<br />

At this time, all <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> major international carriers<br />

arrive and depart from Providenciales International<br />

Airport. American Airlines flies from Miami, Charlotte and<br />

New York/JFK. JetBlue Airways <strong>of</strong>fers service from Fort<br />

Lauderdale, Boston and New York/JFK. Southwest Airlines<br />

travels to Fort Lauderdale. Delta Airlines flies from Atlanta<br />

and New York/JFK. WestJet travels from Toronto. Air<br />

Canada <strong>of</strong>fer flights from Toronto. British Airways travels<br />

from London/Gatwick via Antigua.<br />

Bahamasair and InterCaribbean Airways fly to Nassau,<br />

76 www.timespub.tc


Bahamas. Flights to: Antigua; Dominica; Cap Haitien<br />

and Port Au Prince, Haiti; Kingston and Montego Bay,<br />

Jamaica; Miami, Florida; Puerto Plata and Santo Domingo,<br />

Dominican Republic; San Juan, Puerto Rico; St. Lucia; St.<br />

Maarten; Santiago, Cuba; and Tortola are available on<br />

InterCaribbean Airways, while Caicos Express travels to<br />

Cap Haitien daily. (Schedules are current as <strong>of</strong> November<br />

<strong>2018</strong> and subject to change.)<br />

Inter-island service is provided by InterCaribbean<br />

Airways, Caicos Express Airways and Global Airways. Sea<br />

and air freight services operate from Florida.<br />

Language<br />

English.<br />

Time zone<br />

Eastern Standard Time (EST)/Daylight Savings Time<br />

observed.<br />

Currency<br />

The United States dollar. The Treasury also issues a Turks<br />

& Caicos crown and quarter. Travellers cheques in U.S.<br />

dollars are widely accepted and o<strong>the</strong>r currency can be<br />

changed at local banks. American Express, VISA, and<br />

MasterCard are welcomed at many locations.<br />

Climate<br />

The average year-round temperature is 83ºF (28ºC). The<br />

hottest months are September and October, when <strong>the</strong><br />

temperature can reach 90 to 95ºF (33 to 35ºC). However,<br />

<strong>the</strong> consistent easterly trade winds temper <strong>the</strong> heat and<br />

keep life comfortable.<br />

Casual resort and leisure wear is accepted attire for<br />

daytime; light sweaters or jackets may be necessary on<br />

some breezy evenings. It’s wise to wear protective clothing<br />

and a sunhat and use waterpro<strong>of</strong> sunscreen when out<br />

in <strong>the</strong> tropical sun.<br />

Entry requirements<br />

Passport. A valid onward or return ticket is also required.<br />

Customs formalities<br />

Visitors may bring in duty free for <strong>the</strong>ir own use one carton<br />

<strong>of</strong> cigarettes or cigars, one bottle <strong>of</strong> liquor or wine,<br />

and some perfume. The importation <strong>of</strong> all firearms including<br />

those charged with compressed air without prior<br />

approval in writing from <strong>the</strong> Commissioner <strong>of</strong> Police is<br />

strictly forbidden. Spear guns, Hawaiian slings, controlled<br />

drugs, and pornography are also illegal.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2018</strong>/<strong>19</strong> 77


Returning residents may bring in $400 worth <strong>of</strong><br />

merchandise per person duty free. A duty <strong>of</strong> 10% to<br />

60% is charged on most imported goods along with a<br />

7% customs processing fee and forms a major source <strong>of</strong><br />

government revenue.<br />

Transportation<br />

A valid driver’s license from home is suitable when renting<br />

vehicles. A government tax <strong>of</strong> 12% is levied on all<br />

rental contracts. (Insurance is extra.) Driving is on <strong>the</strong><br />

left-hand side <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> road, with traffic flow controlled by<br />

round-abouts at major junctions. Please don’t drink and<br />

drive! Taxis are abundant throughout <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> and<br />

many resorts <strong>of</strong>fer shuttle service between popular visitor<br />

areas. Scooter, motorcycle, and bicycle rentals are<br />

also available.<br />

Telecommunications<br />

FLOW Ltd. provides land lines and superfast broadband<br />

Internet service. Mobile service is on a LTE 4G network,<br />

including pre and post-paid cellular phones. Most resorts<br />

and some stores and restaurants <strong>of</strong>fer wireless Internet<br />

connection. Digicel operates mobile networks, with<br />

a full suite <strong>of</strong> LTE 4G service. FLOW is <strong>the</strong> local carrier<br />

for CDMA roaming on US networks such as Verizon and<br />

Sprint. North American visitors with GSM cellular handsets<br />

and wireless accounts with AT&T or Cingular can<br />

arrange international roaming.<br />

Electricity<br />

120/240 volts, 60 Hz, suitable for all U.S. appliances.<br />

Departure tax<br />

US $20 for all persons two years and older, payable in<br />

cash or traveller’s cheques. It is typically built into <strong>the</strong><br />

cost <strong>of</strong> your ticket.<br />

Courier service<br />

Delivery service is provided by FedEx, with <strong>of</strong>fices on<br />

Providenciales and Grand Turk, and DHL. UPS service is<br />

limited to incoming delivery.<br />

Postal service<br />

The Post Office and Philatelic Bureau in Providenciales is<br />

located downtown in Butterfield Square. In Grand Turk,<br />

<strong>the</strong> Post Office is on Front Street, with <strong>the</strong> Philatelic<br />

Bureau on Church Folly. The <strong>Islands</strong> are known for <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

varied and colorful stamp issues.<br />

Media<br />

Multi-channel satellite television is received from <strong>the</strong> U.S.<br />

and Canada and transmitted via cable or over <strong>the</strong> air.<br />

Local station WIV-TV broadcasts on Channel 4 and Island<br />

EyeTV on Channel 5. People’s Television <strong>of</strong>fers 75 digitally<br />

transmitted television stations, along with local news<br />

and talk shows on Channel 8. There are also a number <strong>of</strong><br />

local radio stations, magazines, and newspapers.<br />

Medical services<br />

There are no endemic tropical diseases in TCI. There are<br />

large, modern hospitals on Grand Turk and Providenciales.<br />

Both hospitals <strong>of</strong>fer a full range <strong>of</strong> services including:<br />

24/7 emergency room, operating <strong>the</strong>aters, diagnostic<br />

imaging, maternity suites, dialysis suites, blood bank,<br />

physio<strong>the</strong>rapy, and dentistry.<br />

In addition, several general practitioners operate in<br />

<strong>the</strong> country, and <strong>the</strong>re is a recompression chamber, along<br />

with a number <strong>of</strong> private pharmacies.<br />

Immigration<br />

A resident’s permit is required to live in <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>. A<br />

work permit and business license are also required to<br />

work and/or establish a business. These are generally<br />

granted to those <strong>of</strong>fering skills, experience, and qualifications<br />

not widely available on <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>. Priority is given<br />

to enterprises that will provide employment and training<br />

for T&C Islanders.<br />

Government/Legal system<br />

TCI is a British Crown colony. There is a Queen-appointed<br />

Governor, HE Dr. John Freeman. He presides over an executive<br />

council formed by <strong>the</strong> elected local government.<br />

Lady Sharlene Cartwright-Robinson is <strong>the</strong> country’s first<br />

woman premier, leading a majority People’s Democratic<br />

Movement (PDM) House <strong>of</strong> Assembly.<br />

The legal system is based upon English Common<br />

Law and administered by a resident Chief Justice, Chief<br />

Magistrate, and Deputy Magistrates. Judges <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Court<br />

<strong>of</strong> Appeal visit <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> twice a year and <strong>the</strong>re is a final<br />

Right <strong>of</strong> Appeal to Her Majesty’s Privy Council in London.<br />

Taxes<br />

There are currently no direct taxes on ei<strong>the</strong>r income<br />

or capital for individuals or companies. There are no<br />

exchange controls. Indirect taxation comprises customs<br />

duties and fees, stamp duty, taxes on accommodations,<br />

restaurants, vehicle rentals, o<strong>the</strong>r services and gasoline,<br />

as well as business license fees and departure taxes.<br />

78 www.timespub.tc


Island Auto_Layout 1 12/12/17 12:49 PM Page 1<br />

Economy<br />

Historically, TCI’s economy relied on <strong>the</strong> export <strong>of</strong> salt.<br />

Currently, tourism, <strong>the</strong> <strong>of</strong>fshore finance industry, and<br />

fishing generate <strong>the</strong> most private sector income. The<br />

<strong>Islands</strong>’ main exports are lobster and conch, with <strong>the</strong><br />

world’s first commercial conch farm once operating on<br />

Providenciales. Practically all consumer goods and foodstuffs<br />

are imported.<br />

The Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> are recognised as an<br />

important <strong>of</strong>fshore financial centre, <strong>of</strong>fering services<br />

such as company formation, <strong>of</strong>fshore insurance, banking,<br />

trusts, limited partnerships, and limited life companies.<br />

The Financial Services Commission regulates <strong>the</strong> industry<br />

and spearheads <strong>the</strong> development <strong>of</strong> <strong>of</strong>fshore legislation.<br />

People<br />

Citizens <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> are termed<br />

“Belongers” and are primarily descendants <strong>of</strong> African<br />

slaves who were brought to <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> to work on <strong>the</strong><br />

salt ponds and cotton plantations. The country’s large<br />

expatriate population includes Canadians, Americans,<br />

Brits and Europeans, along with Haitians, Jamaicans,<br />

Dominicans, Bahamians, Indians, and Filipinos.<br />

Churches<br />

Churches are <strong>the</strong> center <strong>of</strong> community life and <strong>the</strong>re<br />

are many faiths represented in <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>, including:<br />

Adventist, Anglican, Assembly <strong>of</strong> God, Baha’i,<br />

Baptist, Catholic, Church <strong>of</strong> God <strong>of</strong> Prophecy, Episcopal,<br />

Faith Tabernacle Church <strong>of</strong> God, Jehovah’s Witnesses,<br />

Methodist and Pentecostal. Visitors are always welcome.<br />

Pets<br />

Incoming pets must have an import permit, veterinary<br />

health certificate, vaccination certificate, and lab test<br />

results to be submitted at <strong>the</strong> port <strong>of</strong> entry to obtain<br />

clearance from <strong>the</strong> TCI Department <strong>of</strong> Agriculture, Animal<br />

Health Services.<br />

National symbols<br />

The National Bird is <strong>the</strong> Brown pelican (Pelecanus occidentalis).<br />

The National Plant is Island hea<strong>the</strong>r (Limonium<br />

bahamense) found nowhere else in <strong>the</strong> world. The<br />

National Tree is <strong>the</strong> Caribbean pine (Pinus caribaea var.<br />

bahamensis). The National Costume consists <strong>of</strong> white cotton<br />

dresses tied at <strong>the</strong> waist for women and simple shirts<br />

and loose pants for men, with straw hats. Colors representing<br />

<strong>the</strong> various islands are displayed on <strong>the</strong> sleeves<br />

and bases. The National Song is “This Land <strong>of</strong> Ours,” by<br />

ISLAND AUTO RENTALS<br />

For Quality & Reliable Service<br />

& Competitive Prices<br />

The Cruise Center, Grand Turk<br />

Neville Adams<br />

Tel: (649) 946-2042<br />

Cell: (649) 232-0933 or (649) 231-4214<br />

Email: nevilleadams@hotmail.com<br />

Providenciales<br />

Levoi Marshall<br />

Cell: (649) 441-6737<br />

Email: levoimarshall86@gmail.com<br />

Web: islandautorentalstci.com<br />

Project1_Layout 1 8/26/18 12:11 PM Page 1<br />

PyrateRadioTCI.com<br />

Mid-20th century radio pirates broadcast<br />

forbidden Rock-n-Roll, Soul, and Jazz from<br />

ships at sea or hidden locations ashore...<br />

Now, Pyrate Radio FM104.5 will rock <strong>the</strong> world<br />

again. Easy listening music from a salty<br />

seafaring lot.<br />

FM104.5 & streaming at www.PyrateRadioTCI.com<br />

Advertising Manager 649-431-7527<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2018</strong>/<strong>19</strong> 79


Tom Rathgeb, a longtime photographer-contributor to <strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>, has created a photo series <strong>of</strong> shells<br />

found on North Caicos beaches. They were shot using natural light with a Nikon D-3400 digital camera, and<br />

enhanced using Adobe Photoshop Elements to highlight <strong>the</strong>ir natural beauty. This shell is an Angular Triton<br />

(Cymatium femorale), a predatory sea snail, about three inches in length. Photo prints (8" x 10") are available<br />

for sale: $45 for a mounted, matted (11" x 14") print or $90 for a framed matted print, plus shipping. Direct<br />

inquiries to tom.rathgeb@gmail.com.<br />

<strong>the</strong> late Rev. E.C. Howell, PhD. Peas and Hominy (Grits)<br />

with Dry Conch is revered as symbolic island fare.<br />

Going green<br />

TCI Waste Disposal Services currently <strong>of</strong>fers recycling services<br />

through weekly collection <strong>of</strong> recyclable aluminum,<br />

glass, and plastic. The TCI Environmental Club is spearheading<br />

a campaign to eliminate single-use plastic bags.<br />

Do your part by using a cloth bag whenever possible.<br />

Keep TCI “Beautiful by Nature” by not littering!<br />

Recreation<br />

Sporting activities are centered around <strong>the</strong> water. Visitors<br />

can choose from deep-sea, reef, or bonefishing, sailing,<br />

glass-bottom boat and semi-sub excursions, windsurfing,<br />

waterskiing, parasailing, sea kayaking, snorkelling, scuba<br />

diving, kiteboarding, stand up paddleboarding, and<br />

beachcombing. Pristine reefs, abundant marine life, and<br />

excellent visibility make TCI a world-class diving destination.<br />

Tennis and golf—<strong>the</strong>re is an 18 hole championship<br />

course on Providenciales—are also popular.<br />

The <strong>Islands</strong> are an ecotourist’s paradise. Visitors can<br />

enjoy unspoilt wilderness and native flora and fauna in 33<br />

national parks, nature reserves, sanctuaries, and areas <strong>of</strong><br />

historical interest. The National Trust provides trail guides<br />

to several hiking trails, as well as guided tours <strong>of</strong> major<br />

historical sites. There is an excellent national museum on<br />

Grand Turk, with an auxillary branch on Providenciales. A<br />

scheduled ferry and a selection <strong>of</strong> tour operators make it<br />

easy to take day trips to <strong>the</strong> outer islands.<br />

O<strong>the</strong>r land-based activities include bicycling, horseback<br />

riding and football (soccer). Personal trainers are<br />

available to motivate you, working out <strong>of</strong> several fitness<br />

centres. You will also find a variety <strong>of</strong> spa and body treatment<br />

services.<br />

Nightlife includes local bands playing island music<br />

at bars and restaurants and some nightclubs. There is<br />

a casino on Providenciales, along with many electronic<br />

gaming parlours. Stargazing is extraordinary!<br />

Shoppers will find Caribbean paintings, T-shirts,<br />

sports and beachwear, and locally made handicrafts,<br />

including straw work and conch crafts. Duty free outlets<br />

sell liquor, jewellery, watches, perfume, lea<strong>the</strong>r goods,<br />

crystal, china, cameras, electronics, brand-name clothing<br />

and accessories, along with Cuban cigars. a<br />

80 www.timespub.tc


where to stay<br />

Grand Turk<br />

range <strong>of</strong> daily rates<br />

US$ (subject to change)<br />

number <strong>of</strong> units<br />

major credit cards<br />

restaurant<br />

bar<br />

air conditioning<br />

phone in unit<br />

television in unit<br />

kitchen in unit<br />

laundry service<br />

pool<br />

on <strong>the</strong> beach<br />

H<br />

The Arches <strong>of</strong> Grand Turk – Tel 649 946 2941 <strong>19</strong>0–210 4 • • • • • • •<br />

Bohio Dive Resort – Tel 649 946 2135 • Web www.bohioresort.com 170–230 16 • • • • • • • •<br />

Crabtree Apartments – Tel 978 270 1698 • Web www.GrandTurkVacationRental.com 210–250 3 • • • • • •<br />

Manta House – Tel 649 946 1111 • Web www.grandturk-mantahouse.com 110–130 5 • • • • • • •<br />

Osprey Beach Hotel – Tel 649 946 2666 • Web www.ospreybeachhotel.com 90–225 37 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

Pelican House – Tel 649 246 6797 • Web www.pelicanhousegrandturk.com 110-130 3 • • • • •<br />

Salt Raker Inn – Tel 649 946 2260 • Web www.saltrakerinn.com 55–140 13 • • • • • • •<br />

Solomon Porches Guesthouse – Tel 649 946 2776/241 2937 • Fax 649 946 <strong>19</strong>84 75–100 3 • •<br />

Middle Caicos<br />

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Dragon Cay Resort at Mudjin Harbour – Tel 649 344 4997 • Web www.dragoncayresort.com 325 8 • • • • • • • • •<br />

North Caicos<br />

H<br />

Bottle Creek Lodge – Tel 649 946 7080 • Web www.bottlecreeklodge.com 155–240 3 • •<br />

Caicos Beach Condominiums – Tel 649 241 4778/786 338 9264 • Web www.caicosbeachcondos.com 159–299 8 • • • • • • • •<br />

Cedar Palms Suites – Tel 649 946 7113/649 244 4186 • Web www.oceanbeach.tc 250–300 3 • • • • • • • • •<br />

Flamingo’s Nest – Tel 649 946 7113/649 244 4186 • Web www.oceanbeach.tc 175–340 2 • • • • • • • •<br />

Hollywood Beach Suites - Tel 800 551 2256/649 231 1020 • Web www.hollywoodbeachsuites.com 200–235 4 • • • • • •<br />

JoAnne’s Bed & Breakfast - Tel 649 946 7301 • Web www.turksandcaicos.tc/joannesbnb 80–120 4 • • • •<br />

Palmetto Villa – Tel 649 946 7113/649 244 4186 • Web www.oceanbeach.tc 225–250 1 • • • • • • • •<br />

Pelican Beach Hotel - Tel 649 946 7112 • Web www.pelicanbeach.tc 125–165 14 • • • • • • • •<br />

Pine Cay<br />

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The Meridian Club - Tel 649 946 7758/866 286 7993 • Web www.meridianclub.com 800–1300 13 • • • • • • •<br />

Parrot Cay<br />

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COMO Parrot Cay Resort & Spa - Tel 649 946 7788/855 PARROTCAY • Web www.parrotcay.com 550–2850 65 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

Providenciales<br />

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Airport Inn – Tel 649 941 3514 • Web www.airportinntci.com. 140 18 • • • • • • •<br />

The Alexandra Resort & Spa – Tel 800 704 9424/649 946 5807 • Web www.alexandraresort.com 280–420 99 • • • • • • • • •<br />

The Atrium Resort – Tel 888 592 7885/649 333 0101 • Web www.<strong>the</strong>atriumresorttci.com 159–410 30 • • • • • • • •<br />

Amanyara – Tel 866 941 8133/649 941 8133 • Web www.aman.com 1000–2100 73 • • • • • • • •<br />

Aquamarine Beach Houses – Tel 649 231 4535/905 556 0278 • www.aquamarinebeachhouses.com 200–850 24 • • • • • • • •<br />

Beaches Resort Villages & Spa – Tel 888-BEACHES/649 946 8000 • Web www.beaches.com 325–390AI 758 • • • • • • • • •<br />

Beach House Turks & Caicos – Tel 649 946 5800 • Web www.beachchousetci.com 532–638 21 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

BE Beach Enclave – Tel 888 434 3981 • Web www.beachenclave.com see web 24 • • • • • • • •<br />

Blue Haven Resort & Marina – Tel 855 832 7667/649 946 9900 • Web www.bluehaventci.com 250–650 51 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

Caribbean Paradise Inn – Tel 649 946 5020 • Web www.caribbeanparadiseinn.com 162–225 17 • • • • • • • •<br />

Club Med Turkoise – Tel 800 258 2633/649 946 5500 • Web www.clubmed.com 120–225 290 • • • • • • • • •<br />

Coral Gardens on Grace Bay – Tel 649 941 5497/800 787 9115 • Web www.coralgardensongracebay.com <strong>19</strong>9-449 32 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

Gansevoort Turks + Caicos – Tel 888 844 5986/649 941 7555 • Web www.gansevoorttc.com 315–720 91 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

Grace Bay Club - Tel 800 946 5757/649 946 5050 • Web www.gracebayclub.com 650–1750 75 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

Grace Bay Suites – Tel 649 941 7447 • Web www.GraceBaySuites.com 99–<strong>19</strong>5 24 • • • • • • • •<br />

Harbour Club Villas – Tel 649 941 5748/305 434 8568 • Web www.harbourclubvillas.com 210–240 6 • • • • •<br />

The Inn at Grace Bay – Tel 649 432 8633 • Web www.innatgracebay.com 179–379 48 • • • • • • •<br />

Kokomo Botanical Gardens - Tel 649 941 3121• Web www.aliveandwellresorts.com 169–299 16 • • • • •<br />

Le Vele - Tel 649 941 8800/888 272 4406 • Web www.leveleresort.com 303–630 22 • • • • • • • •<br />

La Vista Azul – Tel 649 946 8522/866 5<strong>19</strong> 9618 • Web www.lvaresort.com 215–375 78 • • • • • • •<br />

The Lodgings – Tel 649 941 8107/242 6722 • Web www.hotelturksandcaicos.com 175–255 15 • • • • • •<br />

Neptune Villas – Tel 649 331 4328 • Web www.neptunevillastci.com 150–400 10 • • • • • • • • •<br />

Northwest Point Resort • Tel 649 941 5133 • Web www.northwestpointresort.com <strong>19</strong>6–550 49 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

Ocean Club Resorts - Tel 800 457 8787/649 946 5880 • Web www.oceanclubresorts.com 180–690 <strong>19</strong>1 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

The Palms Turks & Caicos – Tel 649 946 8666/866 877 7256 • Web <strong>the</strong>palmstc.com 595–1700 72 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2018</strong>/<strong>19</strong> 81


where to stay<br />

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Providenciales (continued)<br />

Pelican Nest Villa – Tel 649 342 5731 • Web www.pelicannest.tc 429–857 2 • • • • • •<br />

Point Grace – Tel 649 946 5096/888 209 5582 • Web www.pointgrace.com 424–1515 27 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

Ports <strong>of</strong> Call Resort – Tel 888 678 3483/649 946 8888 • Web www.ports<strong>of</strong>callresort.com 135–210 99 • • • • • • •<br />

Queen Angel Resort – Tel 649 941 8771 • Web www.queenangelresort.com 150–575 56 • • • • • • • • •<br />

Reef Residences at Grace Bay – Tel 800 532 8536 • Web www.reefresidence.com 275-385 24 • • • • • • •<br />

The Regent Grand – Tel 877 288 3206/649 941 7770 • Web www.<strong>the</strong>regentgrand.com 495–1100 50 • • • • • • • • •<br />

Royal West Indies Resort – Tel 800 332 4203/649 946 5004 • Web www.royalwestindies.com 180–695 92 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

The Sands at Grace Bay – Tel 877 777 2637/649 946 5<strong>19</strong>9 • Web www.<strong>the</strong>sandsresort.com 175–675 116 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

Seven Stars Resort & Spa – Tel 866 570 7777/649 333 7777 – Web www.sevenstarsgracebay.com 365–2400 165 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

The Shore Club – Tel 649 339 8000 – Web www.<strong>the</strong>shoreclubtc.com 465–4650 148 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

Sibonné Beach Hotel – Tel 888 570 2861/649 946 5547 • Web www.sibonne.com 110–375 29 • • • • • • • •<br />

The Somerset on Grace Bay – Tel 649 339 5900/888 386 8770 • Web www.<strong>the</strong>somerset.com 350–1300 53 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

The Tuscany – Tel 866 359 6466/649 941 4667 • Web www.<strong>the</strong>tuscanyresort.com 975–1300 30 • • • • • • • •<br />

The Venetian – Tel 877 277 4793/649 941 3512 • Web www.<strong>the</strong>venetiangracebay.com 695–1175 27 • • • • • • • •<br />

Villa del Mar – Tel 877 345 4890/649 941 5160 • Web www.yourvilladelmar.com <strong>19</strong>0–440 42 • • • • • • •<br />

Villa Mani – Tel 649 431 4444 • Web www.villamanitci.com 6500–9500 8 • • • • • • •<br />

Villa Renaissance - Tel 649 431 8899 • Web www.villarenaissancebeachresort.com 295–650 36 • • • • • • • • •<br />

The Villas at Blue Mountain – Tel 649 941 4255 • Web www.villasatbluemountain.com 1200–2500 3 • • • • • • • •<br />

West Bay Club – Tel 855 749 5750/649 946 8550 • Web www.<strong>the</strong>westbayclub.com 235–1163 46 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

Windsong – Tel 649 333 7700/800 WINDSONG • Web www.windsongresort.com 275–925 50 • • • • • • • • •<br />

range <strong>of</strong> daily rates<br />

US$ (subject to change)<br />

number <strong>of</strong> units<br />

major credit cards<br />

restaurant<br />

bar<br />

air conditioning<br />

phone in unit<br />

television in unit<br />

kitchen in unit<br />

laundry service<br />

pool<br />

on <strong>the</strong> beach<br />

Salt Cay<br />

Castaway – Salt Cay – Tel 772 713 9502 • Web www.castawayonsaltcay.com 175–265 4 • • • • •<br />

Genesis Beach House – Tel 561 502 0901 • Web www.Genesisbeachhouse.com 1000–1200W 4 • • • • •<br />

Pirate’s Hideaway B & B – Tel 800 289 5056/649 946 6909 • Web www.saltcay.tc 165–175 4 • • • • • • •<br />

Salt Cay Beach House – Tel 772 713 9502 • Web www.saltcaybeachhouse.blogspot.com 799W 1 • • • • • •<br />

Trade Winds Lodge – Tel 649 232 1009 • Web www.tradewinds.tc 925–1325W 5 • • • • •<br />

Twilight Zone Cottage – Tel 772 713 9502 • Web www.twilightzonecottage.blogspot.com 499W 1 • • • •<br />

The Villas <strong>of</strong> Salt Cay – Tel 772 713 9502 • Web www.villas<strong>of</strong>saltcay.com 150–475 5 • • • • • • • •<br />

H<br />

H<br />

H<br />

G<br />

South Caicos<br />

East Bay Resort – Tel 844 260 8328/649 232 6444 • Web eastbayresort.com <strong>19</strong>8–1775 86 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

Sailrock South Caicos – Tel 800 929 7<strong>19</strong>7 • Web sailrockresortcom 600–800 6 • • • • • • • • •<br />

South Caicos Ocean & Beach Resort – Tel 877 774 5486/649 946 32<strong>19</strong><br />

Web southcaicos.oceanandbeachresort.com 120–275 24 • • • • •<br />

Hotel & Tourism Association Member<br />

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Rates (listed for doubles) do not include Government Accommodation Tax and Service Charge<br />

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dining out – providenciales<br />

Amanyara — Amanyara Resort. Tel: 941-8133. Light gourmet<br />

cuisine with menu changing daily. Open 6 to 10 PM.<br />

Angela’s Top O’ The Cove Deli — Suzie Turn, by NAPA.<br />

Tel: 946-4694. New York-style delicatessen. Eat-in, carry-out,<br />

catering. Open daily 7 AM to 5 PM; Sunday 7 AM to 2 PM.<br />

Asú on <strong>the</strong> Beach — Alexandra Resort. Tel: 941-8888. Casual<br />

Caribbean and popular international fare. Open daily for 7:30<br />

AM to 10:30 PM. Service indoors, poolside, and at beach.<br />

Baci Ristorante — Harbour Towne, Turtle Cove. Tel: 941-3044.<br />

Waterfront Italian dining. Brick oven pizza. Popular bar. Open<br />

for lunch Monday to Friday 12 to 2 PM and dinner nightly from<br />

6 to 10 PM. Closed Sunday.<br />

Bay Bistro — Sibonné Beach Hotel. Tel: 946-5396. Oceanfront<br />

dining featuring creative international cuisine. Open daily<br />

7 AM to 10 PM. Weekend brunch. Catering and special events.<br />

Beaches Resort & Spa — The Bight. Tel: 946-8000.<br />

All-inclusive resort. A variety <strong>of</strong> restaurants and bars on premises.<br />

Non-guests can purchase a pass.<br />

Bella Luna Ristorante — Glass House, Grace Bay Road. Tel:<br />

946-5214. Fine Italian dining. Indoor or terrace seating above<br />

tropical garden. Open daily from 5:30 PM. Closed Sunday. Lunch<br />

and pizza in <strong>the</strong> garden. Private catering available.<br />

Big Al’s Island Grill — Salt Mills Plaza. Tel: 941-3797. Wide<br />

selection <strong>of</strong> burgers, steaks, salads, and wraps in a diner-like<br />

setting. Open daily from 11 AM to 10 PM.<br />

Bugaloo’s Conch Crawl — Five Cays. Tel: 941-3863. Fresh<br />

local conch and seafood by <strong>the</strong> beach. Rum, buckets <strong>of</strong> beer,<br />

live local bands. Open daily from 11 AM to late.<br />

Cabana Beach Bar & Grill — Ocean Club. Tel: 946-5880.<br />

Casual island fare, burgers, salads, snacks. Open daily from<br />

7 AM to 10 PM. Tropical cocktails with a view <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> sea.<br />

Caicos Bakery — Caicos Café Plaza. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic French boulangerie.<br />

Fresh-baked breads, rolls, croissants, muffins, quiche,<br />

pastries, cakes. Open 7 AM to 4:30 PM daily except Sunday.<br />

Caicos Café — Caicos Café Plaza. Tel: 946-5278.<br />

Mediterranean specialties, grilled local seafood. Fine wines, dining<br />

on <strong>the</strong> deck. Open 6 PM to 10 PM Monday to Saturday.<br />

The Caravel Restaurant — Grace Bay Court. Tel: 941-5330.<br />

Cozy restaurant <strong>of</strong>fering island food with flair; famous for fish<br />

tacos. Full bar. Open daily 5 to 10 PM, closed Thursday.<br />

Chicken Chicken — <strong>Times</strong> Square, downtown Provo. Fast food,<br />

fried chicken, native fare.<br />

Chinson’s Grill Shack — Leeward Highway. Tel: 941-3533.<br />

The <strong>Islands</strong>’ best jerk and barbecue, Jamaican pastries. Open<br />

daily 8 AM to 10 PM; Friday to Midnight.<br />

Club Med — Grace Bay Road. Tel: 946-5500. All-inclusive<br />

resort. Buffet-style dining; live show and disco in <strong>the</strong> evenings.<br />

Non-guests can purchase a daily pass.<br />

Coco Bistro — Grace Bay Road. Tel: 946-5369. Continental<br />

Caribbean cuisine by Chef Stuart Gray under a canopy <strong>of</strong> palms.<br />

Serving dinner from 5:30 PM. Closed Monday. Look for <strong>the</strong><br />

Cocovan airstream lounge with garden seating or take-away.<br />

Coconut Grove Restaurant & Lounge — Olympic Plaza,<br />

Downtown. Tel: 247-5610. Casual native fare for residents and<br />

tourists. Cracked conch, conch fritters, fried fish. Pool and game<br />

room. Open daily 11 AM to 10 PM.<br />

Coyaba Restaurant — Caribbean Paradise Inn. Tel: 946-5186.<br />

Contemporary Caribbean gourmet cuisine in a private tropical<br />

garden setting. Extensive wine list. Dinner nightly from 6 to 10<br />

PM. Closed Tuesday. Reservations recommended.<br />

Crackpot Kitchen — Ports <strong>of</strong> Call. Tel: 2313336. Experience<br />

<strong>the</strong> best <strong>of</strong> au<strong>the</strong>ntic Turks & Caicos and Caribbean cuisines<br />

with local celebrity Chef Nik. Open daily 5 to 10 PM except<br />

Thursday; Happy Hour 5 to 7 PM.<br />

Da Conch Shack & RumBar — Blue Hills. Tel: 946-8877.<br />

Island-fresh seafood from <strong>the</strong> ocean to your plate. Covered<br />

beachfront dining for lunch and dinner daily from 11 AM.<br />

Danny Buoy’s — Grace Bay Road. Tel: 946-5921. Traditional<br />

American pub fare; imported draught beers. Open for lunch and<br />

dinner daily from 11 AM. Happy Hour specials. Large screen TVs<br />

for sporting events. Karaoke.<br />

The Deck — Seven Stars Resort. Tel: 941-7777. All day dining<br />

and cocktails by <strong>the</strong> water’s edge. Open daily 11 AM to 11 PM.<br />

Live music Friday nights.<br />

Drift — West Bay Club. Tel: 946-8550. Open-air beachfront dining.<br />

Creatively used local ingredients. Full bar. Open daily.<br />

Dune — Windsong Resort. Tel: 333-7700. Private beachfront<br />

dining with limited availability. Fresh fare prepared to perfection.<br />

Open daily.<br />

El Catador Tapas & Bar — Regent Village. Tel: 244-1134.<br />

Au<strong>the</strong>ntic Spanish tapas with a wide mix <strong>of</strong> cold and hot plates<br />

meant for sharing. Fun and lively atmosphere. Open daily from<br />

5 PM.<br />

Element — LeVele Plaza. Tel: 348-6424. Contemporary, creative<br />

cuisine in an elegant setting. Open for dinner Friday to<br />

Wednesday 6:30 to 10:30 PM.<br />

Fairways Bar & Grill — Provo Golf Club. Tel: 946-5833. Dine<br />

overlooking <strong>the</strong> “greens.” Open for breakfast and lunch from 7<br />

AM to 4 PM daily; Friday, Saturday and Sunday open until 8 PM.<br />

Great Sunday brunch 9 AM to 3 PM.<br />

Fire & Ice — Blue Haven Resort & Marina. Tel: 946-9900.<br />

Drinks at <strong>the</strong> Ice Bar, dessert by <strong>the</strong> fire pits. South Americanmeets-Caribbean<br />

flavors and spices. Open daily 5:30 to 9:30<br />

PM. Closed Wednesday.<br />

Fresh Bakery & Bistro — Atrium Resort. Tel: 345-4745.<br />

Healthy European salads, soups, sandwiches, bakery, pies and<br />

cakes. Gelato. Open daily 7 AM to 6 PM, closed Sunday.<br />

Fresh Catch — Salt Mills Plaza. Tel: 243-3167. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic native<br />

cuisine, from seafood to souse. All-you-can-eat seafood buffet<br />

on Wednesday. Open daily 8 AM to 10 PM. Closed Sunday.<br />

Carry-out available.<br />

Garam Masala — Regent Village. Tel: 941-3292. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic<br />

Indian cuisine, tandoori charcoal-oven specialties. Open daily<br />

11:30 AM to 3 PM, 5:30 to 10 PM. Dine-in, take-out or delivery.<br />

Giggles Ice Cream & Candy Parlour — Ports <strong>of</strong> Call &<br />

Williams Storage. Tel: 941-7370. Cones, sundaes, shakes,<br />

smoothies, “Gigglers,” ice cream pies and cakes. Pick ‘n’ mix<br />

candies. Open daily 11 AM to 10 PM.<br />

Gilley’s Sky Lounge & Bar — At <strong>the</strong> airport. Tel: 946-4472.<br />

Burgers, sandwiches, local food. Open daily 6 AM to 9 PM.<br />

Grace’s Cottage — Point Grace Resort. Tel: 946-5096.<br />

Elegant, gourmet Caribbean cuisine showcasing regional foods.<br />

Extensive wine list. Gazebo seating under <strong>the</strong> stars or indoor<br />

dining in a romantic gingerbread cottage. Serving dinner from<br />

6 to 10 PM nightly. Reservations required. Native cuisine night<br />

on Tuesday with live music.<br />

84 www.timespub.tc


Grill Rouge — Grace Bay Club. Tel: 946-5050. Al fresco bistro.<br />

Diverse menu. Fun cocktails. Open daily for lunch Noon to 3 PM,<br />

dinner to 9 PM.<br />

Hemingways on <strong>the</strong> Beach — The Sands at Grace Bay. Tel:<br />

941-8408. Casual beachfront bar and restaurant. Fresh fish,<br />

pasta, sandwiches, salads and tropical drinks by <strong>the</strong> pool.<br />

Oceanfront deck for great sunsets! Open 8 AM to 10 PM daily.<br />

Hole in <strong>the</strong> Wall Restaurant & Bar — Williams Plaza, Old<br />

Airport Road. Tel: 941-4136. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic Jamaican/Island cuisine<br />

where <strong>the</strong> locals go. Full bar. A/C dining or outdoors on <strong>the</strong><br />

deck. Open daily 7 AM to 9 PM. Pick-up/delivery available.<br />

Infiniti Restaurant & Raw Bar — Grace Bay Club. Tel: 946-<br />

5050. Elegant beachfront dining for lunch and dinner. Gourmet<br />

Euro/Caribbean cuisine; fine wines. Full bar and lounge.<br />

Reservations required.<br />

Island Raw — Le Petite Plaza. Tel: 346-5371. Vegan lifestyle<br />

kitchen, <strong>of</strong>fering fresh, organic, raw, vegan, gourmet. Open<br />

Friday, Noon to 2 PM.<br />

Island Conch Bar & Grill — Bight Cultural Market. Tel: 946-<br />

8389. Caribbean and local cuisine. Open daily 11 AM to 9 PM.<br />

Island Scoop — Grace Bay Plaza. Tel: 242-8511/243-5051.<br />

21 flavors <strong>of</strong> ice cream made locally. Cones, smoothies, blizzards<br />

and shakes. Open daily, 11 AM to 10 PM.<br />

The Java Bar — Graceway Gourmet. Tel: 941-5000. Gourmet<br />

café serving fresh baked desserts, sandwiches and c<strong>of</strong>fee<br />

delights. Open 7 AM to 8 PM daily.<br />

Jack’s Fountain — Across from Casablanca Casino. Tel: 946-<br />

5225. Seafood, steak, unique specialty items in a lively, relaxed<br />

“beach bar” atmosphere. Open 7 AM to 10 PM daily.<br />

Kalooki’s Grace Bay — Le Vele Plaza. Tel: 941-8388. The perfect<br />

mix <strong>of</strong> sweet and spicy Caribbean flavors. New location in<br />

Grace Bay. Open daily 11 AM to 10 PM. Closed Thursday.<br />

Kitchen 218 — Beach House, Lower Bight Road. Tel: 946-5800.<br />

Caribbean cuisine with hints <strong>of</strong> French and Asian fusion and <strong>the</strong><br />

chef’s passion for fresh ingredients. Open 8 AM to 10 PM daily.<br />

The Landing Bar & Kitchen — Grace Bay Road across from<br />

Regent Village. Tel: 341-5856. Unique nautical setting for dinner<br />

under <strong>the</strong> stars. Cocktails, fire pit. Open daily except Tuesday<br />

5:30 to 10 PM.<br />

Las Brisas — Neptune Villas, Chalk Sound. Tel: 946-5306.<br />

Mediterranean/Caribbean cuisine with tapas, wine and full bar.<br />

Terrace and gazebo dining overlooking Chalk Sound. Open daily<br />

8 AM to 10 PM. Take-out available; private parties.<br />

Le Bouchon du Village — Regent Village. Tel: 946-5234. A<br />

taste <strong>of</strong> Paris. Sidewalk café with sandwiches, salads, tartines,<br />

tapas, dinner specials, wine, cheese, dessert, c<strong>of</strong>fees. Open<br />

daily 11 AM. Closed Sunday.<br />

Le Comptoir Francais — Regent Village. Tel: 946-5234.<br />

French deli, bakery, wine shop. Open daily.<br />

Lemon 2 Go C<strong>of</strong>fee — Ventura House. Tel: 941-4069.<br />

Gourmet c<strong>of</strong>feehouse. Sandwiches, muffins, cookies, croissants,<br />

yogurt, salads. Open Monday to Saturday 7:30 AM to 7 PM,<br />

Sunday 9 AM to 1 PM.<br />

The Lounge — Grace Bay Club. Tel: 946-5050. Decidedly hip<br />

lounge. Caribbean-infused tapas, martinis, tropical cocktails,<br />

world music and <strong>the</strong> finest sunset location in Providenciales.<br />

Lupo — Regent Village. Tel: 431-5876. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic Italian<br />

“comfort food.” Regional wine list. Dine in or take out readymade<br />

gourmet meals. Open daily Noon to 3 PM; 6 to 10 PM.<br />

Magnolia Restaurant & Wine Bar — Miramar Resort. Tel:<br />

941-5108. International cuisine with island flavors, north shore<br />

views. Open for dinner from 6 to 9:30 PM except Monday. Wine<br />

bar opens at 4 PM.<br />

Mango Reef — Turtle Cove. Tel: 946-8200. Fresh local flavors<br />

and seafood, homemade desserts. Open daily 11 AM to 10 PM.<br />

Set price dinner on weekdays. Waterside deck, indoor or patio<br />

dining. Tie-up to dock at Turtle Cove Marina.<br />

Market Café — Blue Haven Resort. Tel: 946-9900. Gourmet<br />

c<strong>of</strong>fees, teas, frozen drinks; fresh breads and pastries; grab ‘n’<br />

go salads, sandwiches, smoothies. Open daily 7 AM to 8 PM.<br />

Mis Amigos Cocina Mexicana — Central Square. Tel: 946-<br />

4229. A variety <strong>of</strong> traditional Mexican fare, including salads and<br />

<strong>the</strong> best margaritas in town. Open daily.<br />

Mo<strong>the</strong>r’s Pizza — Downtown <strong>Times</strong> Square. Tel: 941-4142.<br />

Best pizza in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos, available by <strong>the</strong> slice or <strong>the</strong><br />

island’s biggest “large.” Open daily 11 AM to 9 PM; to 10 PM on<br />

Friday and Saturday; Noon to 8 PM on Sunday.<br />

Mr. Groupers — Lower Bight and Sunset Ridge Hotel (near airport).<br />

Tel: 242-6780. Serving fresh local seafood straight from<br />

<strong>the</strong> sea. Open daily 10 AM to 10:30 PM, Sunday 3 to 11 PM.<br />

Opus Wine • Bar • Grill — Ocean Club Plaza. Tel: 946-5885.<br />

International menu with Caribbean flair. Fresh seafood. Serving<br />

dinner nightly 6 to 10 PM. Indoor/outdoor dining. Conference<br />

facility, events, catering.<br />

Outback Steakhouse TCI — Regent Village. Unbeatable<br />

steak cuts complemented by chicken, ribs, seafood, and pasta.<br />

Generous portions, moderately priced, casual atmosphere. Open<br />

Monday to Thursday 3 to 11 PM; Friday to Midnight; Saturday 1<br />

PM to Midnight; Sunday 1 to 11 PM.<br />

Parallel23 — The Palms Turks & Caicos. Tel: 946-8666. Pantropical<br />

cuisine in a setting <strong>of</strong> casual elegance. Boutique wine<br />

list. Al fresco or private dining room available. Open daily 6 to<br />

10:30 PM.<br />

The Patty Place — Behind Shining Stars; Le Petit Place, Blue<br />

Hills. Tel: 246-9000. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic Jamaican patties and loaves. 18<br />

flavors <strong>of</strong> Devon House ice cream. Open daily 9:30 AM to 10 PM.<br />

Pavilion — The Somerset. Tel: 339-5900. Chef Brad <strong>of</strong>fers a<br />

global palate, interpreted locally. Seafood raw bar. Open daily<br />

for breakfast, lunch, dinner; Sunday Prime Rib special.<br />

Pelican Bay Restaurant & Bar — Royal West Indies Resort.<br />

Tel: 941-2365/431-9101. Poolside restaurant and bar with<br />

Caribbean, French and Asian fare. Breakfast, lunch, dinner daily<br />

from 7:30 AM to 10 PM. Special events each week.<br />

Pepper Town Café — Digicel Cinema, #4. Tel: 246-9237.<br />

Native and Caribbean Dishes. Open daily except Sunday 11:30<br />

AM to 7 PM. Island breakfast on Saturday at 7 AM.<br />

Pizza Pizza — Grace Bay Plaza/Cinema Plaza. Tel: 941-<br />

8010/941-3577. New York style specialty pizzas. Open daily<br />

11:30 AM to 9:30 PM, weekends until 10 PM. Free delivery.<br />

Provence — Le Vele Plaza. Tel: 946-4124. Traditional French<br />

artisan-style cuisine. Fresh pasta, gelato, cheeses, charcuterie,<br />

pastries, desserts. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner.<br />

Retreat Kitchen Vegetarian Café & Juice Bar — Ports <strong>of</strong><br />

Call. Tel: 432-2485. Fresh, organic, vegan, vegetarian, gluten-free<br />

fare. Fresh juices, daily lunch specials. Open for lunch<br />

Monday to Saturday, 9 AM to 3 PM. Delivery available.<br />

Rickie’s Flamingo Café — Between Ocean Club and Club Med.<br />

Tel: 244-3231. Local fare and atmosphere right on <strong>the</strong> beach.<br />

Best grouper sandwich and rum punch! Don’t miss Curry Fridays<br />

and Beach BBQ Saturdays.<br />

Salt Bar & Grill — Blue Haven Resort & Marina. Tel: 946-9900.<br />

Outdoor seating overlooking <strong>the</strong> marina. Sandwiches, burgers,<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2018</strong>/<strong>19</strong> 85


salads, classic bar favorites. Open daily 11:30 AM to 9:30 PM.<br />

Seven — Seven Stars Resort. Tel: 339-7777. Elevated contemporary<br />

cuisine fused with TCI tradition. Open Monday to Saturday,<br />

5:30 to 9:30 PM.<br />

72ºWest — The Palms Turks & Caicos. Tel: 946-8666.<br />

Beachside dining with a family-friendly, Caribbean-inspired<br />

menu. Serving lunch daily; dinner seasonally.<br />

Sharkbite Bar & Grill — Admiral’s Club at Turtle Cove. Tel:<br />

941-5090. Varied menu; casual dining. Sports bar/slots. Open<br />

daily from 11 AM to 2 AM.<br />

Shay Café — Le Vele Plaza. Tel: 331-6349. Offering organic<br />

c<strong>of</strong>fees, teas, sandwiches, salads, soup, pastries, gelato, sorbetto,<br />

smoothies, beer and wine. Open daily 7 AM to 7 PM.<br />

Simone’s Bar & Grill — La Vista Azul. Tel: 331-3031. Serving<br />

fresh seafood and local cuisine. Open daily 11 AM to 11 PM;<br />

weekends 7 AM to 11 PM. Popular bar!<br />

Skull Rock Cantina — Ports <strong>of</strong> Call. Tel: 941-4173. The place<br />

for Tex-Mex; daily drink specials. Open daily, 8 AM to Midnight.<br />

Solana! Restaurant — Ocean Club West. Tel: 946-5254.<br />

Oceanfront dining from sushi to burgers. Teppanyaki and Sushi<br />

Bar, engage with <strong>the</strong> chefs. Open daily 7:30 AM to 10 PM.<br />

Somewhere Café & Lounge — Coral Gardens Resort. Tel:<br />

941-8260. Casual dining with Tex-Mex flair right on <strong>the</strong> beach.<br />

Cocktails, beers, specialty drinks. Open early to late daily.<br />

Stelle — Gansevoort Turks + Caicos. Tel: 232-4444. Modern<br />

Mediterranean cuisine featuring fresh fish and seafood. Open 6<br />

to 10 PM daily, until 2 AM on Friday with DJ.<br />

Sui-Ren — The Shore Club. Tel: 339-8000. Inspired flavors <strong>of</strong><br />

Peruvian-Japanese fusion cuisine with fresh seafood and organic<br />

produce in a unique setting. Open daily.<br />

Thai Orchid — The Regent Village. Tel: 946-4491. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic<br />

Thai cuisine; over 60 choices! Dine in or carry out. Open for<br />

lunch and dinner daily.<br />

Three Bro<strong>the</strong>rs Restaurant — Town Center Mall, Downtown.<br />

Tel: 232-4736. Seafood and native cuisine. Tuesday night buffet<br />

dinner. Catering services. Open daily, 7 AM to 10 PM.<br />

Tiki Hut Island Eatery — Dockside at Turtle Cove Inn. Tel:<br />

941-5341. Imaginative sandwiches, salads, seafood, Black<br />

Angus beef, pasta, pizzas, fish. Open daily 11 AM to 10 PM.<br />

Turkberry Frozen Yogurt — The Saltmills. Tel: 431-2233.<br />

Frozen yogurt in a variety <strong>of</strong> flavors, with a large selection <strong>of</strong><br />

toppings. Custom donut bar. Open 11 AM to 11 PM daily.<br />

Turks Kebab — At Craft Market on Sand Castle Drive. Tel: 431-<br />

9964. Turkish and Mediterranean fare. Salads, falafel, gyros,<br />

kebabs, hummus. Open for lunch and dinner.<br />

Via Veneto — Ports <strong>of</strong> Call. Tel: 941-2372. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic Italian<br />

dining in a stylish indoor/outdoor venue. Open from 5:30 PM to<br />

late. Closed Thursday. Saturday is Pizza Night!<br />

The Vix Asian Bistro & Grill — Regent Village. Tel: 941-4144.<br />

Contemporary Asian menu with a wok station, dim sum, vegan<br />

specialties and keto dishes. Open daily 7:30 AM to 3 PM; 5 to<br />

9:45 PM. Delivery to select locations. Catering menus.<br />

Yoshi’s Sushi & Grill — The Saltmills. Tel: 941-3374/431-<br />

0012. Sushi bar menu plus Japanese cuisine. Open daily Noon<br />

to 3 PM; 6 to 10 PM. Closed Sunday. Dine indoors or out. Carry<br />

out available.<br />

Zest! — Gansevoort Turks + Caicos. Tel: 232-4444. Lunch and<br />

dinner beachfront. Taste <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Caribbean and Americas. Open<br />

daily Noon to 5 PM; 6 to 9 PM. Fisherman’s night Wednesday. a<br />

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We are driving towards an exciting energy future!<br />

FortisTCI proudly introduces our Nissan Leaf Electric Vehicle (EV) and Charging Station. . .a pilot project to<br />

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To learn more about this EV pilot project and our renewable energy programs, email us at:<br />

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