Eatdrink Waterloo & Wellington #5 February/March 2019

eatdrinkmagazine

The LOCAL food & drink magazine serving Waterloo Region and Wellington County

Issue #W5 | February/March 2019

eatdrink

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine

Beyond Branding

B•Hospitality

Restaurants, Catering

& Event Planning

ALSO FEATURING

Cerny Hospitality Group

Blackshop, Melville Café & Solé

Paris ON Road Trip

I Love Paris When It Sizzles

Craft Beer All-Stars

Top Picks for 2019

Serving Waterloo Region & Wellington County

www.eatdrink.ca


2 | February/March 2019

EXPLORING THE

CHOCOLATE

TRAIL BURNS

CALORIES

GOOD THING.

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introduces you to our world famous confectioners

and bakers. For just $30 you’ll get to sample our

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visitstratford.ca


eatdrink

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine

eatdrinkmag

@eatdrinkmag

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Think Global. Read Local.

Publisher

Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca

Managing Editor Cecilia Buy – cbuy@eatdrink.ca

Food Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca

Editorial Consultant Andrew Coppolino

Copy Editor Kym Wolfe

Social Media Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca

Advertising Sales Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca

Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca

Stacey McDonald – stacey@eatdrink.ca

Terry-Lynn “TL” Sim – TL@eatdrink.ca

Finances

Ann Cormier – finance@eatdrink.ca

Graphics

Chris McDonell, Cecilia Buy

Writers

Darin Cook, Andrew Coppolino,

J.J. Francissen, Gary Killops,

Bryan Lavery, George Macke,

Tracy Turlin

Photographer Steve Grimes

Telephone & Fax 519-434-8349

Mailing Address 525 Huron Street, London ON N5Y 4J6

Website

City Media

Cecilia Buy

Printing

Sportswood Printing

Serving up

Great

partnerships

OUR COVER

This fresh salad

typifies the approach

of B•Hospitality,

a multi-pronged

organization with a

growing profile in the

region. Read the story

“Beyond Branding” by

Andrew Coppolino on

page 14.

Photo by Gary Evans

Photography.

© 2019 Eatdrink Inc. and the writers.

All rights reserved.

Reproduction or duplication of any material published in

Eatdrink or on Eatdrink.ca is strictly prohibited without

the written permis sion of the Publisher. Eatdrink has a

regular printed circulation, replicated in full online, and is

published six times annually. The views or opinions expressed

in the information, content and/or advertisements published

in Eatdrink or online are solely those of the author(s) and do

not necessarily represent those of the Publisher. The Publisher

welcomes submissions but accepts no responsibility for

unsolicited material.

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Contents

Issue #W5 | February/March 2019

Publisher’s Notes

Making a Magazine

Serving Readers and Advertisers

in Equal Measure

By CHRIS McDONELL

6

Restaurants

Waterloo/Cambridge Pioneers

A Brief History of

Cerny Hospitality Group

By ANDREW COPPOLINO

8

Beyond Branding

B•Hospitality, in Southwestern Ontario

By ANDREW COPPOLINO

14

Wine

The One That’s In Your Glass

Favourite Wines ... Year ’Round

By GARY KILLOPS

18

Beer

All-Stars

My Top Picks for 2019

By GEORGE MACKE

21

8

14

26

39

44

Road Trips

I Love Paris When it Sizzles

Paris, Ontario

By BRYAN LAVERYK

26

The BUZZ

Culinary Community Notes

New and Notable

30

Recipes

Yum & Yummer

Ridiculously Tasty Recipes

Review & Recipe Selections by TRACY TURLIN

39

Books

Plate of Darkness

Apocalyse Chow

Review by DARIN COOK

44

The Lighter Side

Behind Closed Doors

By J.J. FRANCISSEN

46

21

18


o u r n o t - s o - s e c r e t " s e c r e t "

c o m i n g s o o n t o # d t k


6 | February/March 2019

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

Publisher’s Notes

Making a Magazine

Serving Readers and Advertisers in Equal Measure

By CHRIS McDONELL

There is nothing more exciting, and

terrifying, than a blank sheet of

paper for a writer. Of course, for

most of us today, that is a blinking

cursor in a new Word document on an

otherwise empty screen. Like a skier looking

down on an untracked hill of powder snow,

we plunge ahead anticipating an exciting

run but are somewhat unsure of how we

will successfully

navigate our way

down the page. The

creative process is

underway.

Each issue of

Eatdrink magazine

begins something

like this. We set

forth with some

definite ideas in

mind, but each

writer is on an

independent

journey with their contribution. Their

individual ski runs conclude with an emailed

file to our Managing Editor Cecilia Buy,

who takes a keen eye to their submission,

ascertaining that they fulfilled their

assignment with the grace we expect. Kym

Wolfe is our diligent proofreader. Our Food

Editor Bryan Lavery has a look as well, with

the goal of ensuring that we are accessible but

also accurate and appealing to the sophisticated

diners and drinkers in our readership.

While all this has been going on, our

salespeople have been working on the other

side of this business. While we place our

editorial content as primary to maintaining

our relevancy to readers, our advertisers are

the lifeblood of the operation. Without them,

we can’t afford to publish our efforts.

Each ad is like each story, with a goal in

mind, a beginning and an end. Studies have

proven that the magazine reader sees the

ads as integral to their experience of the

magazine; they pay attention to them. In most

other media, ads must work twice as hard to

engage the reader, whose goal there is NOT

to pay attention to the ads or commercials.

Magazine ads have a definite advantage.

About half of the ads in Eatdrink are

supplied to us, and for the rest, we are directly

engaged in the creative process of making a

successful ad. Ultimately, readers make the

decision on where

they spend their

money, but we

give them plenty

of enticing ideas.

Marrying the

ads with the

editorial in a way

that is pleasing

for the reader

and effective for

the advertiser

is the final task.

We engage with

readers on our website and through social

media, and take that VERY seriously, but the

magazine is the most tangible expression of

our relationship with readers and advertisers.

We have publishing Eatdrink since 2007 in

London, Stratford and most of the western

corner of Southwestern Ontario, but this

is our first year with what I often call our

“sister publication” serving Waterloo Region

and Wellington County. We watched this

incredibly vital culinary scene with some envy

and anticipation for a number of years before

the timing was right. We’re thankful for the

welcome we’ve received, the amazing people

we have met, and the invaluable connections

that we have forged, but these are still early

days. We’re excited to bring another great

issue to you, and hope everyone is as pleased

with this magazine as we are. That is our goal.

Peace,


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Eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

February/March 2019 | 7

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8 | February/March 2019

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Restaurants

Waterloo/Cambridge Pioneers

A Brief History of Cerny Hospitality Group

Blackshop Restaurant • Solé Restaurant and Wine Bar • Melville Café

By ANDREW COPPOLINO

With a 35-year history that

began at the Blackshop

Restaurant in the community

of Galt in Cambridge, Cerny

Hospitality has the distinction of being one

of the pioneers of food entrepreneurism in

Cambridge and Waterloo Region.

“My mom and dad, Jan and Eva, opened

Blackshop in 1983 as a 32-seat bistro on

Ainslie Street North. I was about ten years

old,” says their son John Cerny.

The young Cerny started washing dishes

and making salads and desserts in a family

business that has grown to three restaurants

in two cities: Blackshop and Melville Café in

Cambridge and Solé in Waterloo. In building

the hospitality group, with three different

restaurant concepts, one thing Cerny has

learned is that a restaurant has a soul. “It

takes its own direction in a way. You can try

to control it, and you can try to guide it, but

it’s like a kid in a way. When customers ask for

a certain type of food or wine or experience,

you try to provide it,” Cerny says. At all

venues, though, virtually everything served

is made in-house, from demi-glace and breads

to cheesecakes and other pastries, in-house.

Overseeing it all is Dan Potter, Executive Chef

of the group of restaurants, who joined the

company in 1998.

A Tale of Two Environments

The Cerny tradition of paying attention to the

details of food and hospitality service started

6,000 kilometers from Cambridge. Jan Cerny

went through formal hospitality training

in the Czech Republic and began his career

tending bar and managing restaurants. In the

family’s last few years in the Czech Republic,

Jan managed a ski resort and hotel in the

Krkonose Mountains. “The family lived at the

hotel,” John Cerny says. “My brother Alec

Blackshop — where Jan Cerny started the tradition of

hospitality in Canada for the Cerny family


Eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

and I grew up skiing. It was a beautiful

environment to grow up in.”

But realpolitik soon played a role.

The Cernys came to Canada in 1980.

John’s brother Alec (who passed

away suddenly in 2013) had wanted

to attend a particular hotel school

in the Czech Republic but was not

allowed to because the family were not

members of the Communist Party. “My

parents didn’t want us growing up in

that environment,” Cerny says. The

decision made overnight, the family left

everything behind and took a significant

risk to flee the country: they headed to

Yugoslavia, ostensibly for a vacation. “We

informed officials that we were having

car troubles on our way back home and

cut back through Austria and filed for

political asylum there,” he says, adding

that they were there about six months

before being accepted by Canada and

landing in Cornwall. The family never

looked back; a relatively short three years

later, they became restaurateurs and

entrepreneurs, with Blackshop.

In the meantime, none of the four

spoke much English, but Jan got a job

as a dishwasher at the London Hunt

and Country Club before ending up in

Kitchener — in what would turn out

to be a serendipitous coincidence. “In

1982, my father got a job working for

Henry Krebs at the Ali Baba on Hespeler

Road, and in precisely the same spot as

Blackshop operates today,” Cerny says.

“Though his English was still limited,

he eventually decided he wanted to

open his own restaurant and left Ali

Baba to take the little house on Ainslie

Street and turn it into a bistro.” The

restaurant’s Blackshop name alludes to

a family friend who was a blacksmith

and created the original ornamental sign and

ironwork. “The chandeliers that are above

the chef’s table at the current restaurant

are the originals,” Cerny says. With its oldworld

approach to food and service, other

than Greystones Restaurant and Scallions

Blackshop was a primary destination for

upscale dining in Cambridge — and it offered

the first licensed dining patio in the city, too.

A Family Business

Jan instituted formal service at the Ainslie

Street Blackshop but with genuine care for

February/March 2019 | 9

Melville Cafe is next to the Grand River in Cambridge

building relationships with customers. It’s

something that Cerny says has been carried

on through all the businesses. “The staff is

like family, and customers, both old and new,

are an extension of that family.” After nineand-a-half

years on Ainslie Street, and after

Alec had graduated in business from Western

University (John is a George Brown culinary

graduate), the family decided to move the

restaurant to Hobson Street. John designed

the kitchen and worked with the chefs; Alec

did all the financials, including what John

calls “crazy magic” to make it happen. “The


10 | February/March 2019

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

move was a big risk,” he says. “There

were few restaurants on the west side

of Galt in 1992.”

With its continental, northern

European orientation, Blackshop

stayed at the location until 2006

when the family bought the building

on Hespeler Road where Jan Cerny

had earlier worked for Henry

Krebs, and re-opened the 210-seat

restaurant in 2007. Cerny points out

the attention to detail that was paid

in planning the various areas and

rooms of the restaurant — each with

its own atmosphere and yet with

interconnected character — and the

décor that is an homage to the Ainslie

Street Blackshop.

Throughout the evolution of the

company both brothers essentially

shared duties and oversight. However,

in time John decided he didn’t want to

stay in the kitchen and enrolled in the

Bachelor of Commerce program in the

School of Hospitality, Food and Tourism

Management at University of Guelph.

By 1997 Jan had started to slow down

and take steps toward retirement — and

the two brothers started thinking about

another venture.

“We had a café concept in mind

but couldn’t find the right place.”

They eventually learned about an old

Seagram building in Waterloo where

the Mediterranean-inspired Solé now

operates: it had been empty for a decade

— “a bird sanctuary,” Cerny called

it — and was slated for demolition.

Notwithstanding, in 1999 Solé was

born. It was a big leap for the Cerny

family, as well as for the building’s

owner, to supply the needed services.

Waterloo already had the amazing

Janet Lynn’s Bistro at that time but

nothing with the Mediterranean

element that we offered,” he says. The

beam, post and brick interior of the

150-year-old building is amplified by

the rich and striking natural lighting

— Solé — that pours into the 130-seat

dining room.

The Mediterranean-inspired Solé operates in

the former Seagram building in Waterloo.

A Full Portfolio

While Alec has worked the numbers,

John has seen to operations for the

group. They always worked together,


Eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

and still did with the arrival of Solé, but the

roles solidified to a degree: John managed Solé

and Alec, Blackshop. Solé became successful

quickly, a fortunate development that inspired

the family to start contemplating yet another

project: the City of Cambridge and the

University of Waterloo School of Architecture

approached them about creating a café in

downtown Galt. “We developed a concept that

would serve more than faculty and students.

We came back to the previous café concept

we had had and added more food service,

with the same philosophy and approach as

the other restaurants when it came to caring

service.” Melville Café opened alongside the

Grand River in 2004. “With three restaurants,

we had our hands full,” Cerny admits, quickly

adding there are no plans for a future venture

at this juncture. The growth of Cerny

Hospitality has allowed him to reflect. “The

changes in food in Waterloo Region have been

crazy over the time we’ve been here,” says

Cerny, noting that the general public’s level

of knowledge and education in food has, even

in the last ten years, grown immensely. “It

pushes everybody to improve and evolve.”

A Legacy of Genuine Service

In November 2018 Jan Cerny passed away.

The family aspect of the business, including

the staff and the relationships with loyal

customers, remains the central focus at Cerny

Hospitality because that is Jan’s legacy —

and that has never been lost on John Cerny

from the time he was a ten-year-old. “On the

service side, it still comes down to genuine

care that has been a core value for us. I don’t

think that has changed.”

Blackshop Restaurant

595 Hespeler Road, Cambridge

519 621-4180

info@blackshop.ca

monday to thursday: 11 am–10 pm

friday and saturday: 11 am–11 pm

sunday: 11 am–9 pm

something

for

EVERYONE

Cambridge Farmers’

Market

Circa 1830

Saturday Year Round

7:00am - 1:00pm

www.cambridgefarmersmarket.ca

Melville Café

7 Melville Street, Cambridge

519-624-3984

catering@melvillecafe.ca

monday to friday: 8:30 am–8 pm

saturday & sunday: 8:30 am–4 pm

ANDREW COPPOLINO is a Kitchener-based writer

and broadcaster. He is publisher of Waterloo Region

Eats (waterlooregioneats.com). Andrew also serves as a

regional Eatdrink Editorial Consultant.

Solé Restaurant and Wine Bar

83 Erb Street West, Waterloo,

519-747-5622

sole.ca

monday–thursday: 11:30 am to 10 pm

friday: 11:30 am to 11 pm

saturday: 11 am to 11 pm

sunday: 11 am to 9 pm


12 | February/March 2019

Stratford is

more than

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A restaurant inspired by

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Run by workers.

Owned by workers.

Shared by the Community.

Open Thursday through Monday

Reservations Recommended

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519.305.6464

@redrabbitresto

global tapas with local ingredients

fresh cocktails

Perfect for dinner, drinks and long conversations

Thursday through Sunday from 5pm

85 Downie St, Stratford

(next to Avon Theatre)

519.305.8585

85Downie.com


Eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

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February/March 2019 | 13

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14 | February/March 2019

Restaurants

Beyond Branding

B•Hospitality, in Southwestern Ontario

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

B•Hospitality • Bruce Craft House • The Bruce Caboose • B@THEMUSEUM

B•Elegant Catering & Event Planning • LOT42 Global Flex Campus

By ANDREW COPPOLINO

Whenever opportunity

has popped up, a certain

Cambridge-based food and

hospitality company has

taken advantage. B•Hospitality is the group

of companies that came into being in 2017

and which includes the Cambridge Hotel

and Conference Centre, B @ THEMUSEUM,

The Bruce Caboose and Bruce Beast food

trucks, and an impressive new kitchen

facility at Kitchener’s equally impressive

Lot42. The company got its start around 2005

when the Guelph-based Skyline Group of

Companies, co-founded by Martin Castellan,

began contemplating a joint hotel concept.

Unfortunately, Future Inns hotelier Bruce

Brett, a partner in the business arrangement

and someone who had become a mentor,

passed away suddenly and plans were forced

to change.

Opportunity persisted, and in 2007 The

Cambridge Hotel and Conference Centre

opened, with good food in the community as

a focus. “We wanted a full-service restaurant

in the hotel because that adds to the guest

experience, and we wanted to operate it in

order to control our own destiny,” Castellan

says. The restaurant was named The Bruce

(and later Bruce Craft House) in Brett’s

honour. The focus was for the venue to be

“Cambridge’s hotel” and satisfy guests in

terms of comfort and accessibility when

it came to accommodation and dining, at

the same time that it captured a share of

the Cambridge community’s interest in

the region’s burgeoning food and beverage

While enjoying the culinary and beverage

offerings at the Bruce Craft House, patrons can

also savour such design touches as the elegant

Chiavari chairs and crafted harvest table.


Eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

The plated salad (right), also seen on our

cover, is from the 80 Ton room at Lot 42.

Below right, the charcuterie board is from

The Factory at Lot 42.

scene. “There were lineups at The Keg

because they do steak well,” according

to Castellan. “We had to figure out what

we could do well and give good value

and comfort, and that’s the way it has

evolved.” That aspect of the business

model is the purview of Regional

Executive Chef Aaron Clyne, who joined

the company to develop the food and

beverage program and shape its local

nature. “Between 2010 and 2015, we

spent a lot of time forging relationships

with farmers and producers and our

other partners, as well as finding the

right staff and building the brand in

the community,” says Clyne, a graduate

of the George Brown College culinary

program.

In 2015 the group added the Bruce

Caboose food truck. “We started to

realize that the demand for the food and

beverage we were offering was more than

we could sustain within the Cambridge

Hotel, so we took it to the people out

in the surrounding community,” Clyne

says. When Imbibe in THEMUSEUM in

central downtown Kitchener closed in

the same year, they took over the space

and re-branded it as B @ THEMUSEUM, a

quaint and cozy bar that is hugely popular

with lovers of a diverse range of craft beer.

“Our Managing Director Billie-Anne Arthur

brought it to my attention, and we thought

that it might be a good opportunity to work

out some more catering,” Castellan says,

adding that a Kitchener presence would also

give the company a more regional face. And

the catering, in fact, was growing.

The following year the group launched

B•Elegant Catering and Event Planning,

before adding The Bruce Beast food truck

to its rapidly growing portfolio in 2017.

“We also revamped the Bruce Restaurant

and Lounge and re-branded it Bruce Craft

House,” says Clyne. The restaurant is a

collaborative effort between the Cambridge

Hotel and B•Hospitality with touchstones

fire, craft beer and local food; a focus of

the restaurant is the stone pizza oven that

is used to make pizza, breads and bagels.

There are about a dozen craft beers on tap.

All of that opportunity was topped off in

2018 when B•Hospitality built a magnificent

7,500-square-foot catering and events kitchen

at Kitchener’s mammoth Lot42, where the

company is the food and beverage partner.

Referred to as a “global flex campus,” Lot42 is a

17-acre industrial complex built six decades ago

on Ardelt Place, replete with original windows,

open-web steel-joist ceilings, a gantry crane

from the 1950s which straddles the space — one

room of which alone occupies about 40,000

square feet. “It’s what [Lot42 owner] Ron Doyle

called an ‘industrial gothic cathedral.’ You don’t

purpose-build something like that, but it’s

there and it’s a unique and amazing space,” says

Castellan. “The kitchen gives us the opportunity

to do a lot of catering, and the team is excited to

build the venue as a showcase piece.”

The business’s evolution represents “a lot

of growth in less than four years,” according

to Clyne, but the idea of local food has never

been lost. “To ask if you’re focused on local

is a loaded question nowadays,” Clyne says.

“The term has been used as a sales pitch, but

I firmly believe it should refer to how you

operate. We do a lot of fantastic things in this

region, and I don’t think enough restaurants

are capitalizing on that, though a lot more are

now. I knew a lot of farmers and producers


16 | February/March 2019

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

B•Hospitality is the food and beverage partner at Kitchener’s Lot

42. Below, comfortable leather chairs line the long table.

from the past, and they do some great stuff.

It just makes sense to work with them now,”

says Clyne, who is conscious of minimizing

the restaurants’ carbon footprint at the same

time as showcasing great local products. The

range of local product they use is significant

too; the hotel’s in-room amenities might

include simple maple syrup or chocolates

made by Reid, but at the same time at Lot42

crews are breaking down entire Wagyu cattle

that come from a farm in St. Jacobs — and

dry-aging it for 90 days in preparation for a

company function. All the poultry comes from

local farms, including Tanjo Family Farm in

Millbank.

Castellan is also a co-owner of Four

Fathers Brewing located on Guelph Avenue in

Hespeler, which is allied with B•Hospitality

but operated independently. Three flagship

beers are available at The Beer Store and

LCBO, and about a dozen seasonal and oneoff

products are available at the brewery,

which also houses a small pub. “Certainly, any

synergy and cooperation we can have with

B•Hospitality, we’re game for that,” Castellan

says. For his part, Clyne loves the

beer scene. “It has just exploded. You

once had to go seek out a craft beer

spot, which was great for the craft

beer spot but not for the consumer.

Now everywhere has it, and it’s really

accessible. There is so much going on

with so many great breweries.” While

he admits that it makes the industry

more competitive, it also makes things

more exciting.

Future opportunities are, in ways,

in progress currently, given the

techniques and experiments that the

kitchen at Lot42 is engaged in. “In the

dry-age fridge right now we have a full

bone-in tomahawk-style Wagyu rib

that has been going for about 75 days,”

says Clyne. There’s also cheese-making,

smoking and curing that take place.

“We do a lot of butchery. We’ll bring

in 300 ducks and break them down

and ship them to our various venues,”

he adds. In a sense, it’s a production

facility that is farm-to-kitchen where

a farmer can pre-sell an entire lot of

birds or beef. “It certainly makes the

farmers’ business a lot easier and ours

too when I know I don’t have to go

to ten different farmers,” Clyne says.

“We’re almost exclusive with most of

our producers.” If you ask Castellan what’s

ahead for the growing company, he, on the

one hand, speaks generally that “this has been

an evolution that’s about building a team

and capability;” on the other, however, that

team will be focused on the Lot42 kitchen, at

least in the immediate future, no matter what

shapes it assumes. “We want to showcase

that kitchen as best we can,” says Castellan,

noting that it can also be an instructional and

demonstration space. “We want to be able to

offer exciting and unique food experiences for

people.”

B•Hospitality

bhospitality.ca

Bruce Craft House

in the Cambridge Hotel & Conference Centre

700 Hespeler Road, Cambridge

cambridgehotel.ca/the-bruce-craft-house/

monday–thursday: 6 am–11 pm

friday & saturday: 7 am–midnight

sunday: 7 am–10:30 pm

holidays: 7 am–10 pm


Eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

The Bruce Caboose

cambridgehotel.ca/food-truck/

B@THEMUSEUM

10 King Street W., Kitchener

519-742-2337

bhere.ca/themuseum/

monday: closed (available for private events)

tuesday–thursday: 11 am–11 pm

friday: 11 am–1 am

saturday: 11 am–midnight

sunday: 11 am–4pm (Brunch served all day)

B•Elegant Catering & Event Planning

belegant.ca

LOT42 Global Flex Campus

41 Ardelt Place, Kitchener

519 603-5700

For info on all spaces go to lot42.ca/our-spaces

February/March 2019 | 17

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ANDREW COPPOLINO is a Kitchener-based writer

and broadcaster. He is publisher of Waterloo Region

Eats (waterlooregioneats.com). Andrew also serves as a

regional Eatdrink Editorial Consultant.

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18 | February/March 2019

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Wine

The One That’s In Your Glass

Favourite Wines ... Year ’Round

by GARY KILLOPS

What’s your favourite wine?

Ask a dozen people and you

will probably get 12 different

answers. It’s a question I get

asked all the time and for me there is no right

answer. I like wine and I like a lot of different

wines so I often use this canned reply: “My

favourite wine is the one that is in my glass.”

I follow up this impudent response by asking

them what their favourite wine is.

Now, I’m aware that many who ask me

this question are doing so with the intention

of learning a little bit more about wine. So

when they tell me that they drink only red or

white wine, I regard it as an opportunity to

introduce them to something different.

For me, wine really depends on the season,

and often on the food I will be pairing it

with. In the summer I tend to open more

chilled, crisp white wines and in the winter

find that I often reach for full-bodied reds.

Change is good, and sometimes having a

lively pinot grigio on a cold winter night just

seems so right.

There are several wines that I do tend

to open a little more frequently

throughout the year. These are

inexpensive wines that offer

amazing quality for the price. I

guess you could call these some of

my favourites.

Vineland Cabernet

Franc (LCBO #594127, $14.95)

— On a recent visit to the

LCBO I found bottles of both

the 2016 and 2017 vintages on

the shelf. The wine geek that I

am saw an opportunity to do a

vertical tasting. Both vintages

offered ripe blackberry, juicy

cherry, and a hint of cedar.

Noticeably missing in both

(and, to me, a good thing) were

those herbaceous green bell pepper notes that

are often found in Ontario cab francs. Both

were fruity and medium bodied.

Vineland Estate Winery, located on the

Niagara Escarpment, is one of Ontario’s top

producers of cabernet franc. A 2015 reserve

cabernet franc with a $50 price tag sold

out quickly at LCBO’s Vintages locations

and between 2018 and 2019. Vineland’s

winemaker will release a series of six “Cab

Ride” wines that are all about “terroir.” They

will come from six different Niagara vineyards

(Neumann, Smith, Van Bers, Nichol, Hunter,

Briar Creek). They are reported to all taste

remarkably different even though the only

difference is where the grapes are grown.

These wines will first be made available

to Vineland wine club members. Any that

remain unsold they will be made available to

the general public.

For details on Vineland’s wine club visit

vineland.com

Pelee Island Pinot Noir Reserve

(LCBO #458521, $17.95) — Good Ontario

pinot noir can get a bit pricey. From time to

time I have seen this wine on sale and I stock

up. Pinot noir is so versatile. It

pairs well with many dishes but is

also enjoyable on its own.

The 2017 Pelee Island Winery

reserve pinot noir was 50%

barrel-aged in French and

European oak for six months.

Red berry fruit surrounded

by subtle vanilla and earthy

notes. Ripe, crisp finish.

I recently paired this

wine with fresh grilled

Atlantic salmon with citrus

marinated plum tomatoes

and balsamic reduction. It

was perfect!


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Time to plan your next

Road Trip to Lambton County!

Our new drink trail allows you to sip

and savour in any order you prefer.

Quai Du Vin Signature Series

White (LCBO #485821, $15.35) — I first

tasted this wine last summer when visiting

the winery. I purchased a couple of bottles

on that trip and later wished I had

picked up a few more. I shared it

with company and everyone liked

it. I am happy to see that it is now

available at the LCBO, although

currently somewhat limited in

locations and supply. Buy some if

you find it!

An off-dry blend of riesling,

vidal, pinot gris, and seyval

blanc. Fermented in a

combination of steel tanks and

older French oak barrels, then

blended. Red apple, pear, and

lemon fruit notes dominate

with a tasty off-dry lingering

finish.

Refined Fool

Twin Pines Orchards

& Cider House

Alton Farms Estate Winery

Widder Station Golf,

Grill & Tap House

Refined Fool (2 locations)

Stonepicker Brewing Co.

Widder Station Golf, Grill & Tap House

Munro Honey & Meadery

Twin Pines Orchards & Cider House

Alton Farms Estate Winery

Dark Horse Estate Winery

Smackwater Tours –Transportation Service

Wines To Look For

Several issues ago I wrote an article

on Alton Farms Estate Winery,

which is located in Plympton-

Wyoming, about an hour west of

London. Since then the winery

has been able to have

two of their wines

available in select

LCBO locations in

Lambton, Middlesex

and Oxford

counties. Both are

$16.20

GARY KILLOPS is a CAPS Certified

Sommelier who loves to talk, taste, and

write about wine. He shares his tasting

notes on EssexWineReview.com

Download the trail map at

www.ontbluecoast.com

1 800 265 0316


Eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

February/March 2019 | 21

Beer

All-Stars

My Top Picks for 2019

by GEORGE MACKE

Anderson Winter. An amber

ale spiced with cinnamon,

orange, honey and ginger,

Anderson Winter makes a

beer drinker thankful for

the cold weather when this

seasonal from London’s Old

East Village brewer reappears.

True, Anderson is better

known for its IPA and cream

ale, but Winter holds special

appeal. A fireside classic, even if the recipe is

only two years old.

Black Swan English Pale

Ale. The Stratford brewery

rebooted itself with a

renovation and expansion

last fall, and a commitment

to creative new one-offs

and seasonals. But no

amount of recipe wizardry

is likely to unseat this EPA

as one of the biggest joys of

the Southwestern Ontario craft beer galaxy if,

like me, you like your beer malt-forward with

a hint of hops.

Cowbell Shindig. Sure, before opening

their own barn-shaped brewery

in Blyth they

started by contract

brewing Absent

Landlord, a kolsch, and

that’s likely the Cowbell

beer most people know

from the LCBO. But opening

their own brewery has

meant a dizzy whirl of

new beer introductions

Remember the Smash Mouth song

All Star from the Shrek soundtrack?

It’s an earworm right now as I think

about my votes for the NHL all-star

team and, since hockey and beer go handin-hand,

has me wondering. If there were an

all-star team of Southwestern Ontario craft

beers, what would it look like?

I know where my 12-pack of votes would

land. Here goes.

and while many are more flavourful and

exotic, none hit the mark like Shindig Lager,

a sessionable beer for all occasions

and the biggest seller at the brewery.

Elora Borealis. This grapefruity

pale ale won a gold medal at the

2018 Ontario Brewing Awards and,

while it’s available at the LCBO, it’s

best enjoyed fresh at the brewpub

in the pretty Wellington County

village of Elora. Maybe pair it with

the pub’s warm pretzel and wild

boar summer sausage platter before

taking a stroll to the gorge or a short

drive to the unique Wellington

County Museum, located in the

oldest standing poorhouse in Canada. The joy

of craft beer is in the journey of discovery.

Forked River Golden Boy. Released

last fall in specially labelled cans as a

tribute to London Olympic gold medal

bobsledder Alex Kopacz, Golden Boy

is a super easy drinking Belgian-style

ale. The aroma is stone fruit, the wee

spicy kick is from the yeast.

This one’s podium-worthy

and available at the

brewery or its online

store.

Innocente Charcoal

Porter. Is there something

about Kitchener-Waterloo and dark

beers? Innocente’s Charcoal Porter,

a collaboration with Beertown

restaurants, won a gold medal at the

2015 Canadian Brewing Awards, and

deservedly so. Think roasted barley


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lighter-than-usual porter.

Railway City Witty Traveller.

There’s the famous Dead Elephant

IPA and the summertime classic

Orange Creamsic Ale. But I like to

show a little love for Witty Traveller,

a Belgian-style wit that’s light (4.2

per cent alcohol) and flavourful.

Sons of Kent 8 Track XPA. A

West Coast IPA, 8 Track cranks up

the volume with flavour coming out of all

speakers. Named in honour of a

music format that’s never coming

back, 8 Track is big on citrus. Is

that mango? And grapefruit? Yes

and yes, just as you’d expect from

the style. Skilled Sons of Kent

brewers use three types of hops

— Cascade, Citra and Centennial

— to brew 8 Track. Pairs well

with Horse With No Name

playing in the background.

Stone House Pilsner. A little brewery with

a big beer, Stone House takes a page from

Toronto’s famous Steam Whistle

by concentrating on brewing

a Czech-style pilsner. It’s

brewed with aromatic Saaz

hops, the same type used in

international beers such as

Stella Artois. Getting a taste

means a journey to Varna in

Huron County.

Upper Thames Timber Beast Brown Ale.

Sure, the workers from around the corner at

the Woodstock Toyota assembly plant might

prefer to end their shifts with an Upper

Thames Backpaddle Blonde or Portage IPA.

But it’s the brown ale from Upper

Thames that makes my all-star list.

Little bit toffee, little bit coffee,

and a whole lot of interesting.

Enjoy it at the original brewery

taphouse at 225 Bysham Park

Rd. or at its sister Brickhouse

Brew Pub at 190 Fairway Road.

Waterloo Dark. I’m so torn. Do I vote a

rookie beer, Waterloo Salted Caramel Porter,

as an all-star or stick with a familiar favourite,

Waterloo Dark. On one hand, Waterloo Dark

has been my go-to from their roster for years

and it’s easy to understand why the Kitchener


Eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

brewery bills it as Ontario’s

favourite dark lager. But Salted

Caramel Porter speaks to their

spirit of taste adventures,

despite how big they’ve become

(Waterloo Brewing announced a

$9.6-million expansion last fall).

Dark’s here for the long term,

but Salted Caramel is a seasonal

available at the Beer Store and

the brewery. Your call.

Wellington County Imperial

Russian Stout. If you’re still

thinking craft beer is a phenomenon

invented by millennials, think again.

Wellington Brewery in Guelph has

been brewing great craft beer in

the shadow of Sleeman since 1985.

While some will point to Upside IPA

as its best beer, I’ll put its bear-like

eight-per-cent-alcohol stout on my

all-star team any time.

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Sponsored By

Road Trips

I Love Paris When It Sizzles

The Charms of Paris, Ontario

By BRYAN LAVERY

Nestled in the valley where the Nith

River meets the Grand, Paris benefits

from its striking natural setting

and its rich history dating back to

1829, when the town was first settled. The wellpreserved

buildings showcase architectural

styles typical of small-town Ontario. The

nickname “The Cobblestone Capital of Canada”

pays homage to the churches and residences

built with cobblestones pulled from the rivers.

Voted “the Prettiest Little Town in Canada”

by Harrowsmith Magazine, the town’s name

originates from plaster of Paris, the product

created from the gypsum beds that lay along the

riverbed. Paris is the place to explore on a road

trip or a weekend getaway.

In the late 1800s the textile industry emerged

as a key employer and economic force, driven

by businesses such as Penman Manufacturing

Company, which by 1880 operated three knitting

mills in Paris.

The Paris Wincey Mills Co. is the historic textile

mill located in the downtown area, dating back to

1889. (Wincey is not a surname, but a term used

to describe a type of cloth.) The mill’s century-old

hardwood floors have been rejuvenated, and the

multi-paned windows uncovered and restored

to allow access to natural light. The revitalized

main floor is a well-designed space, reflective of

Paris, Ontario

Paris, Ontario has a historic tradition of textile

production. Today, the Wincey Mills Co. building has

been restored to house retail and food businesses open

to the public, as well as upper-floors office space.

its heritage, and showcases quality retailers in

an indoor market hall setting.

Blue Dog Coffee Roasters and

Café and Tipperary Bog Fine

Cheese and Gourmet Shop are

open from Monday to Saturday.

From Thursday to Saturday, the

market features vendors like

butcher Anthony Ferras’ Link

Street Sausage House, Jiggs-n-

Reels Seafood Shop, Florcita’s

Classic Latin Foods, Sugar and

Spice Bakery, Gourmet Popcorn

and The Grilled Cheese Effect. A

well-appointed, fully-equipped

test kitchen was built with


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the express purpose of giving the venue

a culinary focus. There is also an outdoor

seasonal market and plans for future

development of the lower floor. Office spaces

on the second and third floors offer generous

views of Paris and the Grand River.

If you’re looking for a great place to stay

in downtown Paris, the boutique literarythemed

Arlington Hotel is a hip option.

Originally known the Bradford House

Hotel, the hotel has enjoyed several other

incarnations. The hotel re-opened its doors

last March following extensive renovation

and redecoration of the circa-1850 historic

building. Owned by The Other Bird group

(who are behind Hamilton’s Rapscallion

Rogue Eatery, London’s Hunter & Co.

and four other culinary hot spots), the

Arlington has 24 guest rooms inspired

by authors and creative minds. From the

playful Dr. Seuss room to the luxurious

Oscar Wilde executive suite, each features

unique decor and touches. The hotel’s

blackboard-menu-based restaurant is

named edit and was created by Executive

Chef Matt Kershaw and Chef Paddy

Townsend. The menu offers a rotating

assortment of flavour-focused fare with

playfully-named dishes like Smoky the Pear

Salad, Darkwing Duck and Thanks Foie the

Memories. There is Pork and Parsnip on

the dinner menu with Pork Chop, Sausage,

Pork Belly, Parsnip Purée, Brussels Sprouts

in Chilli Maple Gastrique with Maple

Demi-Glace. The hotel features a cozy bar

and an intimate vibe. 1851 Public House,

in the hotel’s cellar, is used mainly for

private events. The space is defined by its

stone walls, warm wood accents and retro

furnishings.

The Grand River Trails, transformed from former railway

lines and just minutes away from the Arlington Hotel, are

easily accessible and perfect for cycling, hiking and crosscountry

skiing.

Matt Cummings, owner of Paris’s Cobblestone Public

House Restaurant and Midtown Kitchen and Coffee (billed

as an artisanal New York deli-inspired coffee house), along

with chef/owner William Thompson of Food Network’s Top

Chef Canada and a Niagara Culinary Institute alumnus,

have created a mixture of comfort, fun and affordable fare

at Stillwaters Plate & Pour on the main street The restaurant

features two outdoor patios including an 80-seat rooftop

Juniper Dining Co. (above) is one of the many dining options available in

Paris. Owners Brandon and Andrea Legacey are inspired by French bistros,

and combine quality local and seasonal ingredients in their cuisine.


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Discover Heather's

Incomparable Journeys

The Arlington Hotel opened last year after extensive

renovations. Besides 24 guest rooms, the Hotel offers

dining experiences from celebrated Chef Matt Kershaw.

patio with panoramic views of the Grand

River. Cummings and Thompson are set to

open Trattoria at Midtown this winter, a

new concept that will feature casual Italian

riverside dining in a “cellar-like” atmosphere.

The restaurant will include a temperaturecontrolled

glass wine cellar.

Since 1927 Paris Bakery 31 downtown Nottinghill Gate, on Grand Suite 203,

River Street North has been Oakville providing ON TICO#50013851 the

community and visitors with the finest baked

goods. Owners Julia Pickard and Shannon

Nunes feature baguettes and other artisanal

breads. Homemade donuts, cupcakes, sausage

rolls, meat pies bars and other specialties fill

the counters of the tiny bakery.

Off the beaten path on the less touristy

side of the Grand River is Juniper Dining Co.,

which is worth the drive to Paris on its own.

Juniper, owned by Chef Andrea Legacey and

her husband Brandon, is the crème de la crème

of the local culinary scene, inspired by French

bistros and Lyonnais bouchons. (Bouchons are

typically family-owned bistros that serve local

specialties, with an emphasis on dishes that

are heavily centred on meat and often feature

heavy, rich and decadent cuisine.) Chef’s dinner

menu is divided into sections — starters, small

plates, sharing, and mains — featuring classic

items like charcuterie, steak tartare, bone

marrow, duck poutine, salt cod croquettes with

malt vinegar aioli, olive oil poached halibut,

celery root ravioli, and mushroom ragout.

On the Lunch/Brunch menu there is a veal

cheek Reuben, a 14-day house brined veal

cheek pastrami, house-made sauerkraut, and

Le Douanier cheese (Quebec cheese inspired

by the classic French Morbier). There is a

Lyonnaise salad with poached egg, pork belly

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and duck fat dressing. At Juniper they combine

quality local and seasonal ingredients with

original cocktails, local beers and meticulously

curated wines.

Another iconic spot is the bright blue Cedar

House Grill and Martini Bar (formerly an old

mill that once operated between the Nith and

Grand Rivers) that the Legaceys reopened

earlier this year.

If you’re looking for some real southern

barbeque there is an amazing rack of smoked

Alabama style ribs at Camp 31 out on Paris

Road.

If you’re considering a road trip to Paris,

keep in mind it’s a four-season destination.

It’s a short drive from Stratford, Hamilton,

Cambridge and the Waterloo/Wellington

County region, and easily accessible from

London, Guelph, and the GTA.

Eatdrink Food Editor BRYAN LAVERY brings years of

professional experience in the hospitality industry, as a

co-founder of the Lavery Culinary Group, food writer, chef,

event planner, former restaurateur and mentor.


30 | February/March 2019

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

The BUZZ

Culinary Community Notes

New and Notable

Compiled by ANDREW COPPOLINO, BRYAN LAVERY and THE EDITORS

Arthur

Word comes from CEO Keith Harris that KiKi Maple

Sweet Water is now available from coast to coast

across Canada. The small Arthur-based company

has grown steadily over the past several years.

Looking back on the past year, Harris says that

KiKi products have been showcased nationally at

grocery and food events but also in France, the

United Arab Emirates and India, to name a few.

He stresses that the maple water, in addition to

being delicious, is an environmentally conscious

“green product” and proudly Canadian. “All of

our ingredients are natural,” Harris says. “And we

have no synthetic additions to our beverages. All

ingredients simply are very easy to say.” That’s a

good way to start off this Buzz — and the new year,

one which has been touted as a year of healthier

eating.

Baden

The Nook Coffeehouse and Marketplace on

Snyder’s Road in Baden opened in December. The

venue, as well as serving soups, sandwiches and

pastries also caters corporate lunches and foods

for special events. There are also products for sale

made by local artisans.

Cambridge

I guess you could say it is 16,000 square feet of

“healthy.” Goodness Me! Natural Food Market

opened on Hespeler Road at Sheldon Drive at the

end of November. There are several other locations

in the city, a testament to the movement to clean

and healthy eating. The store features a bounty of

organic produce and some local produce as well. It

touts itself as offering small batch-produced grassfed

beef and naturally raised chicken and pork. It’s

also a good spot for consumers looking for various

niche diet ingredients from vegan and plant-based

to keto and gluten-free.

Congratulations to Langdon Hall Country

House Hotel and Spa and executive chef Jason

Bangerter: 2018 was quite the year for the luxe but

casual Relais et Chateaux country house tucked

in amongst the woods in Cambridge. Bangerter

claimed victory over iconic celebrity chef Lynn

Crawford in “Battle Venison” on the Food Network

television show Iron Chef this past fall. I guess I

should say Bangerter “reigned supreme,” to use the

quirky Chairman’s parlance.

Langdon Hall was also informed that it would

be included on La Liste 2019 as one of the best

restaurants in the world. Selection to the list is

based on the aggregation of dozens and dozens of

guidebooks and millions of online reviews which

are drawn upon by food critics and hospitality

experts for evaluation. We can also add that

Langdon was included in the top 50 Best Hotels in

Canada by Hotel Addict. Experienced editors and

travel writers associated with the online magazine

visited and selected their favourite hotels across

the country, and, based on service, amenities and

design, created a shortlist of 50 top properties.

With the departure of Brad Lomanto to Bloom

Restaurant at Conestoga College this past fall, the

Cambridge Mill welcomed Windsor, Ontario native

Joel LaBute as Executive Chef. LaBute has cooked at

Langdon Hall and alongside Stephen Treadwell and

Keith Froggett. That is certainly a strong culinary

provenance, and one he will use to carry on the

culinary tradition at the Mill: fresh, local ingredients

and ethical sourcing that has been in place since

the Mill opened. LaBute will certainly add to that

dedication — he and his wife run their own farm, so

he undoubtedly knows food from farm to table. “I

knew I wanted to be doing something with my hands

where I could be creative, where I could feel proud at

the end of the day,” LaBute explains in a posting on

the Pearle Hospitality website.

Saffron Indian Restaurant & Bar is an authentic

Indian restaurant. Chef Kul brings the fine

traditional cuisines of India to Cambridge.

Saffron’s outgrowth, Dakshin, will be the area’s

first dedicated South Indian restaurant and is


Eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

anticipated to open soon just across the road.

605 Hespeler Rd, Cambridge, 519-267-8188,

saffroncambridge.ca

Elora

Part of Pearle Hospitality, the Elora Mill Hotel

and Spa, a classic and historic site, has been

transformed and re-opened this past summer.

Built by Scottish craftsmen between 1851 and

1859, the original mill burnt to the ground in 1859,

but changed hands and was promptly re-built.

It opened as an inn in 1975, and was purchased

by Pearle in 2010. The kitchen, led by Chef John

Bakker, changes its menu with the seasons and for

inspiration and ingredients draws on the bounty of

local agriculture and artisanal production.

Guelph

Sugo on Surrey has opened in downtown Guelph.

According to owner and operator Alex Tami, it’s a

full-service, Italian-inspired and upscale-casual

venue in a 150-year-old heritage home on Surrey

Street East. Executive chef Brian Baxendale is in

charge of the kitchen and the menu consists of

shareable plates, a half-dozen or so hearty main

courses, salads, pizzas and pasta dishes. “We strive

to get the freshest local ingredients to prepare all

of our dishes as well as work with local businesses

to support economic growth within Guelph,”

Tami says. Alex and Maria Tami’s Sugo on Surrey

is a casual-fine dining restaurant with an Italian

influence in a 150-year-old heritage home. 117 Surrey

Street East, Guelph, sugoguelph.com

A combined Abe Erb Brewing and Settlement Coffee

Roaster will be expanding to Guelph this fall and

will be known as Abe Erb at the Junction. It will

occupy a former railroad building on Edinburgh

Road in the Guelph Junction neighbourhood.

Executive chef Joey Bornino’s Elizabeth Street Eatery

is known for its farm-to-table approach. Chef works

February/March 2019 | 31

with small producers, with the ingredients inspiring

the menu which changes weekly. 447 Elizabeth

Street, 519- 265-0950, elizabethstreeteatery.com

Decadently Yours, home of award-winning cakes

and cupcakes, is celebrating its 5th anniversary.

Congratulations to sisters Jenn Bonner and

Tara Ridell. 119 Surrey St East, 519-262-5314,

decadentlyyours.ca

Artisanale Café is located in a heritage stone

house where everything is made fresh, prepared

Homestyle Cooking & Baking

Family Owned & Operated Mennonite Restaurant & Bakery

Homemade cooking & baking made fresh daily from

scratch using the best ingredients!

• 20+ Pies! • Muffins • Squares • Cookies • Sweet Buns • Donuts

• Cheesecakes • Tarts • Cakes & Cupcakes • Bread & Dinner Rolls

www.annamaes.ca

519-595-4407

Monday–Saturday

7am–8pm

Cash or Debit Accepted

4060 Line 72, Millbank ON

Saturday Brunch

11am–3pm

– Build Your Own Caesars

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Dinner

Tuesday–Saturday

Catering

Melting Pot Wedesdays!

Chef’s Feature cheese

fondues with a

variety of dippers

Toonie

Tuesdays!

Freshly shucked

OYSTERS

226.476.4418

295 Lancaster St. W.

Kitchener

swineandvine.ca


32 | February/March 2019

in a French country style, using traditional and

artisanal techniques. If you’ve never been before,

the $35 Prix-Fixe menu on Wednesday and Thursday

evenings is the perfect introduction. Lunch or

dinner (Wednesday–Saturday), and Sunday brunch.

214 Woolwich Street, 519-821-3359, artisanale.ca

Park Grocery is Guelph’s latest restaurant by the

Neighbourhood Group consisting of Borealis in

Kitchener and Guelph and The Wooly Pub and

Miijidaa Café & Bistro. The recently opened hot

spot which is part bar, deli and grocery shop

offers roasted piri piri chicken, sandwiches,

salads and soups all made from scratch. The bar

offers a selection of local beers and wine and is

home to a barista-driven cafe featuring organic

fair-trade coffee and tea alongside artisan sodas

and milkshakes. With an eye to a sustainable

future, Park Grocery supports a living wage and

donates 5% of sales from the Neighbourhood

Club members’ sales to local community and

environmental initiatives. 294 Woolwich Street,

519-265-9002, parkgrocery.ca

The recently opened Fusion Authentic Indian

Cuisine is co-owned by Jobi Joseph and Joseph

Stephen. Chefs create “savoury dishes that are

inspired and modern, yet comforting and familiar,”

says the website. “Enjoy traditional dishes from

North India or treat your appetite to delicacies

from the backwaters of Kerala.” 96 Gordon Street,

Guelph, 519-265-0999, fusionindian.com

Founder of Taste Detours, Lynn Broughton is a

certified Food Tour Professional. Not only do you

have a guide who is charming, knowledgeable and

well-spoken, but one who has the expertise and the

savvy to provide a first-rate experience. Broughton

recently introduced the Little Bites Food Tour. Join

Taste Detours on this shorter appetizer tour. You’ll

visit four local food purveyors to feast on their

tastiest morsels. tastedetours.ca

Crafty Ramen owners Jared and Miki Farrell make

their own noodles in-house daily from Canadian

wheat with a ramen noodle machine imported

from Japan. The kitchen is dedicated to superb

ingredients like earthy, pork-duck broth made

with locally sourced meat and bones supplied by

Trotters Butcher Shop. Jared and Miki are bringing

their delicious ramen to Kitchener at King near

Water Street soon. 17 Macdonell St, Guelph, 519

824-8330, craftyramen.com

Bryan Steele and his Guelph-based co-owner

partners Conrad Aikens, Justin Corstorphine and

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

Derek Boudreau, all of whom have experience

in food, added another dimension to Guelph’s

exploding culinary scene when they opened the

88-seat La Reina last June. La Reina is an authentic

Mexican restaurant experience start to finish. On

top of tacos, which rival some of the best we’ve

ever tasted, they offer 60+ different tequilas. Head

chef Jose Matamoros brought with him chefs of

Mexican background representing different regions

of the country. You can “Tip the Kitchen” with Sol

or Modelo beer. 10 Wyndham Street North, Guelph,

519-265-8226, lareina519.com

Kitchener

Still yet unannounced formally, there’s a new

chef and other well-known personalities at the

popular Grand Trunk Saloon (GTS) in downtown

Kitchener. And look for other new developments

at the restaurant, according to ownership. Darryl

Haus, a principal at GTS, says (while keeping his

cards close to his vest), “Stay tuned in the early

new year!” We will.

Along Charles Street near Queen in downtown

Kitchener, a confusing situation has cropped up

regarding a “Royal” Shawarma that was in the

process of getting ready to open. The sign now says

“Loyal” Shawarma. Was the original name too close

to that of Waterloo’s small chain Shawarma Royale

on King Street near University Avenue, or some

other legal or title snafu?

Ambrosia Pastry Co., a Waterloo favourite, has

re-branded as Ambrosia Corner Bakery and

moved to the Central Frederick neighbourhood

of Kitchener. Owner Aura Hertzog took over the

space — once known by locals as Fischer’s Variety

— that was previously occupied by Public Market.

The new Ambrosia sells pastries and baked goods

that are made in-house and many well-known local

products, such as tortilla chips from Taco Farm and

breads from Golden Hearth Bakery.

Sadly, the so-called “Duke Food Block” in

downtown Kitchener has been diminished with

the closing of Bread Heads Wood-fired Pizza.

Owner David O’Leary has chosen not to re-new

his lease after several years of helping lead the

pack in wood-fired pizza in Waterloo Region. LRT

construction has had an impact on many of the

businesses in the core, and it changed customer

traffic flow and habits of patrons. O’Leary had

difficulty taking deliveries due to ION transit tracks

that run in front of the block. That said, look for

a strong Bread Heads presence to continue in

Waterloo Region and surrounding areas. O’Leary


Eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

plans to boost his mobile wood-fired pizza business

by adding another unit in order to cover more of the

many festivals and events he participates in across

southwestern Ontario.

The owners of a popular food truck, Breakfast,

Blues and BBQs, have opened a small restaurant

at 105 Victoria Street South between Michael and

Joseph Streets. It’s the former location of the longstanding

Sing Lee Chinese Restaurant, which had

struggled under new owners of late. The BBQ folks,

however, have gotten off to a fast start, and they

will soon have lots of new residents living right

across the street when a multi-storey condominium

is completed. The restaurant serves the expected

dishes of sandwiches, chili and southern barbecue

fare, burgers, fish and chips and poutines, as well as

all-day breakfast. You may also find banana bread

French toast and claims for “all things chorizo!”

Just a heads-up: during the week, it opens at 11

a.m., so the all-day breakfast is a good strategy on

the restaurant’s part.

February/March 2019 | 33

Platter (for two, comprised of short ribs, musubi

and tartare), fresh fruit and root chips. 87 Ontario

Street South, grandsurflounge.com

Last year The Ignite Restaurant Group transformed

the former Berlin into The Rich Uncle Tavern. When

the building was remodelled as The Berlin, Ryan

Lloyd-Craig spent eight months refurbishing and

reclaiming the Renaissance Revival style of the

building to create an 85-seat, street-level dining

room with a long bar. The elevated open-kitchen is

one of the focal points of the space. Chef Benjamin

Award-Winning Cakes & Cupcakes

Baked Daily from Scratch

Custom Order for Special Events & Weddings

— Vegan & Gluten-Free Options Available

A Perfect Centrepiece for Any Event

Top Choice Winners since 2016!

A note posted on their door says that Taste at the

Tannery (121 Charles Street West, Kitchener) “will

be ceasing its daily operations indefinitely while we

redesign and rebrand.” Interpret that any way you

like.

A recent notice in the newspaper indicates that

bankruptcy proceeding are in progress regarding

Fireside Deli and Family Restaurant on Ottawa

Street South near Strasburg Road. There’s likely

management and ownership changes coming.

Conestoga College culinary graduate Alex

Krawczyk runs the kitchen at downtown Kitchener’s

recently opened and popular 30-seat The Grand

Surf Lounge. The Lounge features exotic cocktails

and a Polynesian-inspired Tiki bar themed menu,

including poké, Flaming Crab Rangoon, the Pupu

119 Surrey Street, Guelph

519-265-5314

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Lillico has an ethical and sustainable culinary

philosophy, caring about the provenance of food and

the way it is grown or raised. The restaurant has just

launched a series of prohibition-themed dinners

featuring beer pairings with guest brewers. 45 King

Street West, 519-208-8555, richuncletavern.ca

Located in the historical Tannery building

Downtown Kitchener, Taste at the Tannery is closed

for rebranding and remodelling. 121 Charles St W,

Kitchener, tastetannery.ca

Located below The Walper Hotel, The TWH Social

has been a staple in the downtown Kitchener

culinary scene since January 2015. Over the fall,

talented co-chefs Grant Holdbrook and Carlo

Atienza have crafted exciting new brunch, lunch,

and dinner menus. The Lokal is the striking piano

bar and lounge on the second floor. Breakfast is

served in the Barristers Lounge. 20 Queen Street

South, Kitchener, walper.com

Best-selling cookbook author Donna-Marie Pye

and fellow culinary enthusiast Maria Burjoski

opened a stylish new iteration of Relish Cooking

Studio and Kitchen Essentials a few months

ago. 70 Victoria Street North, 519-954-8722,

relishcookingstudio.com

La Cucina features more than just mouth-watering

pizzas from the custom-built Malagutti pizza oven.

Other items include antipasti, homemade pastas,

paninis and house specialties like Veal Parmigiana

and Porchetta E Rapini. 320 King Street West, 519-

954-5300, lacucinakitchener.com

Gilt is a contemporary shared plate restaurant in

a re-purposed space in the heart of the technology

triangle. The bar, lounge and 65-seat restaurant

is urbane, open, airy and sophisticated with lofty

ceilings and a stylish and comfortable industrial

ambiance. Chef de cuisine Alex Janke has been at

Gilt since the beginning and has innate instincts

when it comes to flavours, marrying global

ingredients and enriching dishes by taking them

to new dimensions. Janke’s repertoire includes

influences from Thai, Indian, French and Mexican

inspired cuisine. 305 King Street West, 519-954-

6100, giltrestaurant.ca

Jill and Mica Sadler recently celebrated Swine

and Vine’s first anniversary. This is the perfect

spot to share well-crafted cocktails, good wine

and local beers, and build-your-own charcuterie

boards. Other inspired fare like Bone Marrow, Beef

Carpaccio, Octopus Salad and Jackfruit Spring Rolls

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

are on offer. We love the tableside carving of the

three-year-old dry-cured Jamón Ibérico served

with warm olives. The pièce de résistance is a

dessert board called Cookies n’ Milk for Grownups,

featuring Triple Nut Biscotti with Frangelico and

Chambord, Spiced Hot Chocolate Cookies with

Rum Chata and Peppermint Schnapps and Milk

Chocolate Orange Truffles with Grand Marnier and

Kahlua. The Sadler’s also offer a fabulous Saturday

brunch. Service is attentive and knowledgeable.

295 Lancaster Street West, 226-476-4418,

swineandvine.ca

Ryan Murphy and Carly Blasutt’s Public Kitchen

& Bar is a stylish independently-owned restaurant

in one of Kitchener’s oldest neighborhoods. They

take pride in creating delicious small, shareable

plates inspired by the Iberian Peninsula. Cheese is

a specialty; try the tasting featuring Iborez (Spain),

Chateau de Bourgogne (France) and Bénédictin Blue

(Quebec). They also offer well-crafted cocktails,

new and old world wines and an all-Ontario craft

beer list at reasonable prices. Menu changes

sometimes on a daily basis. 300 Victoria Street N.,

519-954-8111, kwpublic.com

Crumb Bakehouse is operated by Martha Borys,

a master baker in her own right when it comes to

breads, cakes and pastries. Borys is a graduate

of George Brown College and the University of

Waterloo, and has played a key role at prestigious

businesses in the hospitality industry such

as the Berlin and Langdon Hall. Borys has

gained a solid reputation in KW since joining the

Lancaster Smokehouse team for her unbelievably

delicious homemade pies and baked good. Crumb

Bakehouse currently resides within The Lancaster

Smokehouse, but there are plans to expand into its

own retail and kitchen space. 574 Lancaster Street

W., 519-743-4331, lancsmokehouse.com/crumbbakehouse

Chris & Cathy Corrigan’s Lancaster Smokehouse

is a full-service casual restaurant inspired by the

U.S. south and low country southern barbecue,

made from scratch in-house with the best local

ingredients, and using traditional southern

methods. Tim Borys’ “inventive authenticityladen”

approach incorporates all things local.

He works with area farmers and food purveyors

to keep “The Lanc” fresh and local. Think lipsmacking

pulled pork, chicken, BBQ ribs, shrimp

and grits, brisket, pig’s tails, gumbo and Cajun

jambalaya. 574 Lancaster Street West, 519-743-4331,

lancastersmokehouse.com


D in

anada

Eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

Waterloo

Major renovations and re-conceptualization

are underway at 12-year-old Wildcraft, one of

the flagship restaurants of the Charcoal Group.

You’ll find a bright new look at the restaurant and

bar in early 2019. According to Jody Palubiski,

Charcoal Group of Restaurants managing partner,

both exterior and interior renovations will be

undertaken. With menus and even staff uniforms to

be revamped, it is a major changeover that includes

a new cocktail, beer and wine program. “For more

than a decade, Wildcraft has been fortunate to

serve the community of Waterloo,” says Palubiski.

“We’re so excited for our guests to experience this

new chapter with us. The new year is a time for

renewal and positivity which is exactly what we’re

bringing to Wildcraft with the redevelopment of the

restaurant.” wildcraft.ca

We reported in our last issue that change was afoot

with the growing Fat Sparrow Group: what has

materialized is significant. The Group — comprised

of Uptown 21, Taco Farm, The Harmony Lunch

and Marbles — has acquired the holdings of the

long-time Stone Crock Inc. in St. Jacobs, founded

by entrepreneur Milo Shantz and his wife Laura

in 1975. That means Nick and Nat Benninger and

the Fat Sparrow Group will be gently refurbishing

and adding their own distinctive touch to Jacob’s

Grill, Stone Crock Meats and Cheese, Stone Crock

Bakery, Stone Crock Restaurant, St. Jacobs

Catering, Salad Division and Meeting and Banquet

Rooms. “We have enjoyed great success in Uptown

Waterloo with our current portfolio of restaurants,”

says Chef Nick Benninger. “We’re really excited to

be part of St. Jacobs now as it continues to grow and

prosper.” Sandra Shantz, who has been overseeing

the business since the 1990s, says she will be

staying on with the Fat Sparrow Group. 1396 King St

N, St. Jacobs, 519-664-2286, stonecrock.ca

February/March 2019 | 35

T&T Supermarket, a B.C.-based Asian grocery

chain that is 25 years old and now comes under the

Loblaw purview, opened to pandemonium in early

December. Located in Westmount Mall, the massive

superstore is over 30,000 sq.-ft. (interestingly

making it the smallest of the T&T brand) and has

an immense selection of food products, a bakery,

hot tables, and fish in tanks (sure to raise the ire of

some), a feature of which is cook-while-you-wait.

OneZo Tapioca has opened at 140 University Avenue

near Lester Street in the University of Waterloo

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36 | February/March 2019 eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

area. It seems a new restaurant opens in the district

every few weeks. Look for a new Chinese place to

open in the former Chill and Grill location in the

University Plaza that runs along Phillip Street.

We reported earlier that Chic Pea Middle Eastern

Kitchen was set to open on University Avenue

near Weber Street, Waterloo, and across from

the new Conestoga College campus, and so it has,

in the former Pizza Hut building. Owner Nedal

Alhares, one of the original founders and owners of

Arabesque Family Restaurant on Victoria Street in

Kitchener, has opened the 110-seat restaurant and

open-kitchen concept with the intention of serving

delicious food that’s healthy. He’s brought in unique

charcoal rotisserie equipment for roasting chicken

and serves items such as Turkish pizza, shawarma,

kabobs, sandwiches, salads and a variety of Middle

Eastern sweets. The restaurant is 100 percent halal

and has many vegetarian options.

The Loloan Lobby Bar menus are upscale, sensory

experiences, meticulously conceptualized with

sumptuously textured offerings that are tangy,

spicy, aromatic and herbal. Loloan’s partners

are seasoned restaurateurs and include General

Manager Paul Boehmer of Bhima’s Warung, Renee

Lees and Josh Koehler, of the Starlight Club and

Jane Bond. Bhima’s manager Leanne Amort is a

secondary partner. There are timeless cocktails

and gastronomic forays through the regional and

cross-cultural cuisines of Southeast Asia, with

homage being paid to Indonesia, India, Vietnam,

Singapore and Thailand. The cuisine packs heat and

complex flavours in equal parts. 14 Princess Street

West, 519-883-1010, loloanlobbybar

White Rabbit is an intimate cocktail bar that

can boast having one of the largest whisky lists,

and stocking over 400 brands, many of them

difficult to find. They make stellar handcrafted

cocktails and have whisky and bourbon flight

tasting paddles. 47 King St North, 519- 746-7540,

whiterabbitwaterlloo.com

Proof Kitchen & Lounge, located in the Delta Hotel in

UpTown Waterloo on the site of the historic Seagram

Barrel Yards, offers a first class, contemporary,

chef-driven dining experience presented in a stylish

dining room. Chef Jeritt Raney’s menus feature local

ingredients with an emphasis on a fusion of global

flavours. All seafood has the assurance of the Ocean

Wise symbol. Menus are complemented by expertly

crafted cocktails, a well-chosen wine list, and a

diverse selection of local craft beers. 110 Erb Street

West, Waterloo, 519 208 3333, proofwaterloo.com

Red House in UpTown Waterloo has been converted

into an intimate, relaxed bistro restaurant that

has garnered great word of mouth from industry

professionals. Chef/owner Dan Mc Cowan’s menus

feature fresh food inspired by quality ingredients.

The menu changes daily to incorporate new and

seasonal ingredients and flavours. Entrées include

beef, duck, curries, pastas and vegetarian dishes.

Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday to Friday, and

brunch and dinner Saturday. 30 William St W,

Waterloo, redhouseuptown.ca

Waterloo Brewing is celebrating a 35th anniversary.

When the first small batch was brewed in 1984

the simple goal was to make the kind of beer the

owners would be proud to serve their friends, the

kind of beer they’d choose for themselves. Back

then, they were the only brew masters in Ontario to

think that way. Turns out they were onto something.

waterloobrewing.com

Around the Region

Who doesn’t like to eat and drink? The folks

from EatDrink Magazine will be at the 2019 KW

Wine & Food Show on April 5 and 6. This event

allows visitors to indulge in craft beers, cocktails,

wines and food from Ontario breweries, cideries,

distilleries and local restaurants. Enjoy live

cooking demonstrations, wine pairings and musical

entertainment. Admission at the door will be $20

(tax included) for Friday and Saturday evening

sessions. The Saturday afternoon session will be

$15 (tax included). Walk-up tickets will be sold

based on capacity with preference given to advance

ticket holders. kwwineandfoodshow.com

The Ignite Restaurant Group (owners of The Rich

Uncle Tavern, and Graffiti Market, Red Circle Coffee

and Red Circle Brewing) have purchased the former

Black Forest Inn in Conestogo. The Sawmill Road

property is one of the oldest venues in the region.

The group plans to launch Crowsfoot Ciderhouse

and will offer its own brand of cider, brewed inhouse,

using apples from Martin’s Family Fruit Farm

on Lobsinger Line. The menu will be modelled on the

traditional European smokehouse with a contemporary

twist, combining German food culture and

southern smoke barbecue. The complex is expected

to feature a country market as well as serving as the

new headquarters for Ignite. crowsfootcider.ca

At The Belmont Bistro (formerly Village Creperie)

Chef Brandon Gries, a Stratford Chef School

alumnus, creates flavourful dishes from scratch,

taking no short-cuts and changing the menu

seasonally. 703 Belmont Ave W, 519-576- 5796


Eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

February/March 2019 | 37

Celebrate the Culture of Cheese

www.OxfordCountyCheeseTrail.ca

1-866-801-7368 x3355

tourism@oxfordcounty.ca

@TourismOxford


eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

Abe Erb Brewing and Settlement Coffee Roaster

will soon be opening the doors to their new location

in Ayr at 143 Northumberland. The brewery and

brew pub will be known as Abe Erb at the Mill, a

reference to the property’s storied history as a feed

mill. There are also plans to grow into an event

space with a 700-square-foot covered patio porch.

We continue to hear raves about the traditional

Danish comfort food (smørrebrød/open-face

sandwiches) at The Danish Place at Sunset Villa,

located in Puslinch, which reopens at the beginning

of March, 2019. Join them on Sundays for the 24ft

Smørgåsbrod! Open Thursday to Sunday. 7150

Concession 1, Puslinch, 519-824-0539

Eat Up Your February — From February 1–17,

discover some of the best winter eats and local food

options in Guelph and Wellington County with Eat

up your February! www.tastereal.ca

Wellington Brewery presents Queen of Craft Series

Taking place each Friday evening in March, the

series will include 5 sessions of beer education

events for women. queenofcraft2019.eventbrite.ca

Stratford

It may be the end of another Stratford Festival

season, which brought diners in droves to the

city for prix fixe menus, but the city’s restaurant

community continues to be open for business, and

not just for the locals. Stratford has been known for

decades for setting the benchmark when it comes

to dining, but until just a few years ago it wasn’t

feasible for many of the restaurants to operate

year-round. That has all been changing and many

great restaurants are open year-round.

Drop by the Stratford Tourism Alliance for a

slate of self-guided culinary tours. If you’re a

choco-holic, the Savour Stratford Chocolate Trail

is the way to go. Spend an afternoon strolling

the Victorian streets of Stratford and sampling

chocolate in a wide variety of manifestations. The

self-guided Chocolate Trail is offered year-round

and includes a gift at your choice of six of the 27

stops. Tickets are just $30 (+HST) and valid for 1

week from the date of purchase. No sweet tooth?

There is also a self-guided Bacon & Ale Trail!

visitstratford.ca/chocolatetrail

Stratford’s newest micro-brewery is Herald

Haus Brewing Co., situated in the historic Herald

building, former headquarters of the Stratford

Herald newspaper. The premises have undergone

extensive refurbishment. It is owned and operated

by Daniel J. Graver and a team which includes head

brewer Jeff Macdonald and assistant brewer John

Zippel. Drop by the taproom for expertly poured

pints, cans for purchase and an exclusive menu

prepared by the Hub kitchen team next door. Open

Tuesday to Sunday 11am to 9pm. 21 Market Place,

519- 508-1890, heraldhaus.com

“A locally sourced restaurant, run by workers,

owned by workers, shared by the community,”

sums up The Red Rabbit’s ethos. Executive chef

Sean Collins terms the cooking as “Flavour First,

Ingredient Driven.” Chef’s mantra, “We cook food

we like to eat.” We recently had a stack of luscious

Buttermilk Pancakes topped with warm maple

syrup and a generous slab of foie gras, followed by

Vietnamese Caramel Fried Chicken and t savoury

and nutty tasting Sunchoke Puree. 64 Wellington

Street, 519-305-6464, redrabbitresto.com

Jessie Votary and the folks at Stratford’s The

Red Rabbit and Okazu 85 Downie love building

new, worker-owned restaurants. The new Old

Man & Son allows them another opportunity to

offer fair wages and year round employment —

and of course to serve the luscious, super fluffy

pancakes, smoked bacon and sausage, avocado

toast and other delicious food to early risers. At

lunch there is a great selection of burgers and

sandwiches with their own idiosyncratic twist.

Open for breakfast and lunch, 7am–2pm. Closed

Mondays and Tuesdays. 75 Wellington Street, 519-

305-7575, oldmanandson.com

Want to learn the trade secrets of making gnocchi or

sourdough bread from the experts, or how to prepare

a feast of Indian curry, or improve your knife skills?

Stratford Chefs School Open Kitchen features a wide

variety of hands-on cooking classes and learning

opportunities for all home cooks and food lovers this

winter. stratfordchef.com/open-kitchen

We want your BUZZ!

Do you have culinary news or upcoming events

that you’d like us to share?

Every issue, Eatdrink reaches more than

50,000 readers throughout Waterloo Region &

Wellington County in print,

and thousands more online.

Get in touch with us at editor@eatdrink.ca

Submission deadline for the next issue is March 5.

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Eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

February/March 2019 | 39

Recipes

Yum & Yummer

Ridiculously Tasty Recipes That’ll Blow Your Mind,

But Not Your Diet!

Review and Recipe Selections by TRACY TURLIN

Many of us will make a commitment

to healthier living after the holidays,

even if it’s a foggy memory

of a New Year’s resolution shouted

at a ceiling full of streamers. You may try a

strict “I’m never eating cake again” approach

but, for most of us, that just doesn’t last. This

year I found a kinder, gentler approach to

improving the quality of my diet that can work

long after the New Year’s Day fog has lifted.

Yum & Yummer; Ridiculously Tasty Recipes

That’ll Blow Your Mind, But Not Your Diet! (One

Spoon Media Inc: 2017) is Greta Podleski’s

first solo book. The St. Thomas native is well

known as half of the Looneyspoons team with

her sister, Janet. Together, they’ve written

four national bestseller cookbooks and hosted

the Eat, Shrink & Be Merry television series on

Food Network Canada. Greta, now based in

Waterloo, has continued to share her love of

good food with us.

Podleski has a non-judgmental approach

to healthy eating that makes us forgive her

unholy love of puns. She’s a self-taught cook

who is passionate about making real food for

real life, preferring fresh, natural ingredients

to something out of a box. Still, she does

recognize that life is complicated and time is

short. When a store-bought ingredient makes

more sense, she advises reading

the label carefully to choose the

best one for your needs.

For those who want all the

details, nutritional analyses

are included with each recipe.

There’s an easy code with each

dish indicating if it’s dairy-free,

gluten-free or vegan. Most

include extra suggestions for

customizing the recipe or tips,

in the form of “Kitchen Whizdom”.

You can get the ingredients

for all of Yum & Yummer’s

recipes at any

well-stocked

grocery

store and

most can

be made

in time

for a busy

weeknight

dinner.

I think

anyone

could

find

something

to love in this book.

Podleski studied food photography so she

could take the photos herself and the results

are wonderful. There are beautiful pictures

with every recipe in addition to a QR code

(which she calls a YUM code) that you can scan

with your smartphone or tablet to watch a

short video. If, like me, you have a cell phone

old enough to have a rotary dial, you can

just go online to yumyummer.com to see all

the videos. The only thing I enjoy more than

cooking good food is watching someone else

do it.

The Apricot, Sriracha & Ginger-Glazed

Meatballs are perfect as

appetizers but I also tried

Greta Podleski

adding them to rice noodle

bowls as a main dish and was

delighted with the results.

Made with ground chicken,

they are light, sweet, spicy and

tangy, hitting all the notes

for a perfect snack. These are

becoming a regular staple in

my freezer.

Move over Leek & Potato,

there’s a new soup in town.

Stuffed Bell Pepper Soup is


40 | February/March 2019

now my favourite cold weather food. It’s

filled with all the flavours of a stuffed pepper

but it’s easier to make and as a steamy bowl

of soup is far more comforting. I usually have

cooked rice in the fridge which means I can

make this dish in one pot, in under an hour

with pantry staples. Theoretically, this leaves

extra time for more exercise, another New

Years Resolution. Which I will do as soon as

I’ve read through this book a few more times.

And finished all the videos. I swear.

Yum & Yummer is a very well rounded book.

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

It’s informative, entertaining and visually

appealing. Best of all, it shows you lots of

ways to put more healthy food on your plate,

keeping you satisfied enough to resist the high

calorie, low nutrition offerings left over from

the holidays. Which is not to say that this is

“diet” food, just better food. Who couldn’t use

more of that?

TRACY TURLIN is a freelance writer and dog groomer

in London. Reach her at tracyturlin@gmail.com

Recipes excerpted from Yum & Yummer: Ridiculously Tasty Recipes That’ll Blow

Your Mind, But Not Your Diet! (One Spoon Media Inc., 2017) by Greta Podleski,

reproduced by arrangement with the Publisher. All rights reserved.

Apricot, Sriracha & Ginger-Glazed Meatballs

As the saying goes, “These aren’t your mama’s

meatballs!” Nothing against mama, of course.

And I don’t believe that’s actually a saying.

Regardless, I created this sweet-heat, partymeatball

recipe specifically for Sriracha lovers.

You know, the folks who carry around mini

squeeze bottles of the trendy hot sauce on their

key chains? Make these when you wanna kick

things up a notch.

Preheat oven to 400ºF.

In a large bowl, combine ground chicken, bread crumbs,

onions, hoisin sauce, egg, garlic, gingerroot, sesame oil,

salt and pepper (using your hands works best). Form

mixture into bite-sized meatballs, about 1 1/2 inches in

diameter. Wetting your hands helps prevent the chicken

mixture from sticking to them. (Ground chicken and

turkey are kinda sticky!) You should end up with about 40

meatballs.

MEATBALLS

1 ½ lbs (680 g) lean ground chicken

½ cup dry unseasoned bread crumbs

¼ cup finely minced green onions (with white

parts)

2 tbsp hoisin sauce

1 egg

2 tsp minced garlic

1 tsp grated fresh gingerroot

1 tsp dark sesame oil

½ tsp each sea salt and freshly ground black

pepper

GLAZE

1 cup no-sugar-added apricot jam*

¼ cup reduced-sodium soy sauce

1 tbsp freshly squeezed lime juice

1 tbsp Sriracha hot sauce

2 tsp minced garlic

2 tsp grated fresh gingerroot

½ tsp dark sesame oil

Finely chopped green onions and toasted

sesame seeds for garnish (optional)

Place meatballs on a non-stick baking sheet. Bake in

preheated oven for 15 to 18 minutes or until cooked

through. Stir meatballs once, halfway through cooking

time, to brown sides.

While meatballs are cooking, prepare glaze. In a 10-inch,

deep, non-stick skillet, whisk together jam, soy sauce,

lime juice, Sriracha, garlic, gingerroot, and sesame oil.

Cook over medium-high heat until mixture is hot and

bubbly and jam has melted. Add cooked meatballs and

mix gently, ensuring every meatball is coated with sauce.

Garnish with green onions and sesame seeds, if using.

Serve hot.

Makes about 40 meatballs

Per meatball: 40 calories

1.5 g total fat (0.4 g saturated fat)

3.6 g protein

3.3 g carbohydrate (0 g fiber, 2.6 g sugars)

20 mg cholesterol

121 mg sodium

* I found three brands of no-sugar-added

apricot jam at my grocery store, including

the ubiquitous Smuckers.


Eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

February/March 2019 | 41

Scan the code for a How-To Video!

https://youtu.be/mj_WR256irM


42 | February/March 2019

Stuffed Bell Pepper Soup

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

We all know that guy who says soup’s not a meal

unless it contains meat, right? I can see you nodding!

I guarantee you won’t hear any “where’s the beef?”

complaints when he eats this feast of a soup for

dinner, since it’s meaty, manly and mighty filling. Plus,

it really does taste like a stuffed bell pepper ... only

much easier to make!

1 tbsp olive oil

1 ¼ lbs (568 g) extra-lean ground beef

1½ cups diced green bell peppers

1 cup diced onions

2 tsp minced garlic

1 ½ tsp dried marjoram

1 ½ tsp chili powder

½ tsp dried basil

½ tsp dried fennel seeds (optional)

4 cups reduced-sodium beef broth

1 can (19 oz/540 mL) petite-cut tomatoes (with

liquid)

1 ½ cups tomato sauce (see Kitchen Whizdom)

½ tsp freshly ground black pepper

Sea salt to taste

2 cups cooked brown rice

Heat olive oil in a large soup pot over medium-high

heat. Add beef. Cook and stir until beef is no longer pink

and lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Add bell peppers,

onions and garlic. Cook and stir until vegetables begin to

soften, about 3 more minutes.

Add marjoram, chili powder, basil and fennel seeds, if

using. Cook and stir for one more minute. Add beef broth,

tomatoes with their liquid , tomato sauce and pepper.

Bring soup to a boil. Reduce heat to low and simmer,

covered, for 30 minutes. Taste and add salt if needed. (I

almost always add salt at this point, depending on the

broth I use.)

If serving immediately, stir in cooked rice, then ladle soup

into serving bowls. If you’re planning on eating the soup

over the course of a couple days, keep the rice separate,

otherwise it’ll soak up all the broth.

Makes about 12 cups soup

Per cup: 174 calories

6.6g total fat (2 g saturated fat)

12.7g protein

16 g carbohydrate (2.4 g fiber, 4.6 g sugars)

26 mg cholesterol

222 mg sodium

KITCHEN WHIZDOM

I don’t like big pieces of vegetables in this soup, so I dice

the onions and bell peppers small and use “petite-cut”

canned tomatoes (usually with green peppers, celery and

onions added ... a good compliment to this soup). You can

use plain tomato sauce or your favourite, tomato-based

pasta sauce for extra flavour. For example, I often use

Classico brand Sweet Basil Marinara in this soup. By the

way, the chili powder doesn’t make the soup taste like

chili. It just makes it taste BETTER! Use the fennel seeds

if you like the mild black-licorice taste of Italian sausage.

Those with fennel phobia should leave it out.

Follow Eatdrink on Facebook

(facebook.com/eatdrinkmag)

and watch for our contest to win a

copy of Yum & Yummer, personally

autographed by Greta Podleski. Coming soon!

DINNER SERIES

October-March

Calendar, menus and

reservations online

StratfordChefsSchool

@StratfordChef

OPEN KITCHEN

Hands-on classes for the

dedicated home cook.

Registration online

stratfordchef.com


Eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

February/March 2019 | 43

Scan the code for a How-To Video!

https://youtu.be/fI6MPC2NPcU


44 | February/March 2019

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

Books

Plate of Darkness

Apocalypse Chow

A Remix of Joseph Conrad’s Heart of Darkness

by David Julian Wightman

Review by DARIN COOK

A

Toronto-educated, Ottawa-based

journalist has given the restaurant

scene a wild makeover —not by

cooking elaborate dishes, mixing

exotic drinks, or waiting tables with exquisite

aplomb, but by brewing up a fictional

rendering of chefs in grand literary style.

Introduced in Joseph Conrad’s novella Heart

of Darkness in 1899, Kurtz and Marlow are two

names oozing with literary history. Francis

Ford Coppola famously adopted the characters

into the 1979 Hollywood blockbuster

Apocalypse Now. With a tip of the hat to

both those classics, David Julian Wightman

has written a parody of Conrad’s story and

Coppola’s movie by giving Kurtz and Marlow

new culinary identities in his self-published

book, Apocalypse Chow: A Remix of Joseph

Conrad’s Heart of Darkness (2018).

The story starts at Belly, New York’s hottest

restaurant, with the usual

suspects gathering after a

weekend closing. Along with

Wightman’s readers, the

group of chefs, busboys and

waiters are led down a path

exploring the dark corners of

the restaurant world. Charlie

Marlow points out to his

colleagues that Manhattan

is “one of the dark places

of the Earth,” but the rest

of them know he has seen

harsher territories in a swathe

of illustrious restaurants

jobs, the wildest of all being

his time at Chow, a remote

destination restaurant in

northern Ontario. Walter

Kurtz was the head chef at

Author David Julian Wightman

Chow and gained

a reputation as

the most talented

chef in Canada.

But he went

rogue, and the

restaurant

owners wanted

to part ways

with the unorthodox

chef. They recruited Marlow, a legendary

restaurant manager in his own right, to track

down and relieve the renegade chef of his

duties.

Nearly the entire novella is in Marlow’s

words as he tells his restaurant brethren at

Belly about his venture into the hinterlands

to confront Chef Kurtz. As a veteran in the

field, Marlow knows “the restaurant industry

can be a stifling thing, a burden we choose

to carry, to varying degrees

of commitment. It can turn

men into monsters.” He

yearns to know what drove

Kurtz over the deep end

and into the weeds, because

firing the best chef in Canada

seemed a tall order without

knowing the full story. It

took some time for Marlow

and his crew to trek by land

and river to the secluded

restaurant. He tells us how

“the journey felt like a

tortured night at work, when

the hordes are at table and

the restaurant struggles to

cope … the madness of an

out-of-control service.” He

used the time to contemplate


Eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

his mission and to gain an understanding

of the wayward chef by talking to others

— renegade food truck owners, strung-out

dishwashers, overworked kitchen staff,

sycophantic food critics. Kurtz was so well

known for his outstanding food, people didn’t

know whether to praise him or ostracize

him. Wightman’s readers are strung along

to find out what will happen once Marlow

tracks down this so-called visionary chef.

Will Marlow be able to follow through with

his mission, or will “the inestimable privilege

of dining at Chow” and the enticement of

delectable cuisine from a culinary genius

distract him from the job he was hired to do?

Readers not familiar with the namesake

works need not worry, since Apocalypse

Chow is an enjoyable stand-alone read that

clearly comes from a writer who knows the

restaurant world. The story Marlow tells

is steeped in restaurant lore. Wightman

could be part of that kitchen crew sitting

around the table in Belly: “Between us was

the bond of the restaurant trade, a common

understanding among men who’d long

served.” Wightman put himself through

Ryerson journalism school by bartending

and waiting tables in Toronto restaurants

and Marlow’s recap of his own experience is

influenced by those years of service, including

observations about food security, the allure

of celebrity chefs, the hierarchical tensions

between restaurant staff at the front and back

of house, and illustrious menus comprised of

the prodigious bounty of ingredients found by

foraging in northern Ontario.

Marlow says that his trip to Chow “seemed

to throw a kind of light on everything about

me, and the industry, and the entire society

we feed which in turn feeds us.” Marlow’s role

can be narrowed down to one man telling

his most prized story — same as Wightman,

whose own story is appreciably influenced

by the writing of Anthony Bourdain. In the

acknowledgements Wightman expresses

regret that the late author/chef who inspired

him cannot read Apocalypse Chow himself,

but it is easy to assume that readers drawn

to Bourdain’s books will thoroughly enjoy

Wightman’s retelling of the deep, dark,

culinary relationship of Kurtz and Marlow.

DARIN COOK is a freelance writer based in Chatham.

He keeps himself well-read and well-fed by visiting the

bookstores and restaurants of London.

SATURDAY, MARCH 30, 2019

9AM – 4PM

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and adjacent Conference Rooms,

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251 Dundas St. London, ON

• Shop Vendors

• Tasting Workshops

• Industry Speakers

Celebrating Tea

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Londonteafestival.ca

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SPONSORED BY:


46 | February/March 2019

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The Lighter Side

Behind Closed Doors

By J.J. FRANCISSEN

For many years I harboured some

secrets. They were in my bedroom

closet, hidden away from impressionable,

young eyes. Once a week I’d

bring them out. My spouse was in on my

secret. One could argue, is it still a secret

if your better half knows? Yes, because it’s

something we kept from my young adult son.

Anyone with a teen or young adult male

in the household might be keeping the same

secrets —for survival purposes.

When my son left the house, I’d watch

him disappear

around the

bend, wait ten

minutes, and

then call to my

spouse, “He’s

gone!” We’d

race to the

bedroom and

eagerly open

the closet door,

or crawl under

the bed for the

contraband.

Now that

we’re on the

subject of the forbidden, I kept a stockpile

in my nightstand too. It wasn’t kinky toys

or other naughty paraphernalia, nor was

it bottles of wine, beer or other mood

enhancers. We’re dull people. We had to hide

food. Yep, you read that right — food.

My son had a hollow leg accompanied by

a fast metabolism. He’d eat dinner, have

seconds and thirds, and an hour later rip

into a bag of Doritos. And he wouldn’t just

eat a few, or leave half the bag for later, or

heaven forbid, leave some for us. No! Gone

in one go.

Our breakfasts might start with us finding

only a dribble of milk for the cereal. We’d

decide instead to start the day with toast,

only to find that Wonder Boy had used all the

bread for a midnight gobble. Then perhaps an

egg dish? They had flown the coop too!

We felt like the Dad in A Christmas Story

when the Bumpus hounds made off with

the turkey. We were so gobsmacked that

sometimes the cussing didn’t come out right.

Leftovers were lost. Nutella, none. Pop

Tarts, pilfered. Granola bars, gone. Cookies,

crackers and chips disappeared. The milk

went missing, and the peanut butter.

We started to buy doubles of items, and

hide them, at first in other parts of the

kitchen, but

he somehow

managed to

sniff them

out.

When we

wanted to

watch a movie

with a snack,

we were like

old Mother

Hubbard with

cupboards

bare. Complaints

and

entreaties fell

on deaf ears, probably because the crunching

of the chips was too loud.

We were forced to hide food in our

bedroom, and even toyed with the notion

of getting a mini fridge installed in the

wardrobe so we could have milk and yogurt

in the morning.

Eventually Hungry Harry went away to

college. No more stake-outs or secrets. We

could finally live our true lives … out of the

closet!

J.J. FRANCISSEN resides in London,where she spends

her time writing nature, travel, historical and human

interest articles, and working toward getting her novels

published.


Eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

February/March 2019 | 47

a

movement

for

restaurants

who believe

local food

matters.

®

A Feast On® Certification means

you’re fighting the good food fight.

You’re supporting our farmers

and putting local food first.

To get certified, visit:

ONTARIOCULINARY.COM

@ONTARIOCULINARY #FEASTON


48 | February/March 2019

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

Friday, April 5 th

5:00 PM - 10:30 PM

Saturday, April 6 th

12:00 PM - 10:30 PM

At

Presented By

Advance tickets at:

kwwineandfoodshow.com

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