Eatdrink Waterloo & Wellington #5 February/March 2019

The LOCAL food & drink magazine serving Waterloo Region and Wellington County

The LOCAL food & drink magazine serving Waterloo Region and Wellington County


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Issue #W5 | <strong>February</strong>/<strong>March</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink<br />

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Beyond Branding<br />

B•Hospitality<br />

Restaurants, Catering<br />

& Event Planning<br />


Cerny Hospitality Group<br />

Blackshop, Melville Café & Solé<br />

Paris ON Road Trip<br />

I Love Paris When It Sizzles<br />

Craft Beer All-Stars<br />

Top Picks for <strong>2019</strong><br />

Serving <strong>Waterloo</strong> Region & <strong>Wellington</strong> County<br />


2 | <strong>February</strong>/<strong>March</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />






eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

introduces you to our world famous confectioners<br />

and bakers. For just $30 you’ll get to sample our<br />

Stratford Tourism Alliance at 47 Downie Street.<br />


eatdrink<br />

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine<br />

eatdrinkmag<br />

@eatdrinkmag<br />

eatdrinkmag<br />

eatdrink.ca<br />

Think Global. Read Local.<br />

Publisher<br />

Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca<br />

Managing Editor Cecilia Buy – cbuy@eatdrink.ca<br />

Food Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca<br />

Editorial Consultant Andrew Coppolino<br />

Copy Editor Kym Wolfe<br />

Social Media Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca<br />

Advertising Sales Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca<br />

Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca<br />

Stacey McDonald – stacey@eatdrink.ca<br />

Terry-Lynn “TL” Sim – TL@eatdrink.ca<br />

Finances<br />

Ann Cormier – finance@eatdrink.ca<br />

Graphics<br />

Chris McDonell, Cecilia Buy<br />

Writers<br />

Darin Cook, Andrew Coppolino,<br />

J.J. Francissen, Gary Killops,<br />

Bryan Lavery, George Macke,<br />

Tracy Turlin<br />

Photographer Steve Grimes<br />

Telephone & Fax 519-434-8349<br />

Mailing Address 525 Huron Street, London ON N5Y 4J6<br />

Website<br />

City Media<br />

Cecilia Buy<br />

Printing<br />

Sportswood Printing<br />

Serving up<br />

Great<br />

partnerships<br />


This fresh salad<br />

typifies the approach<br />

of B•Hospitality,<br />

a multi-pronged<br />

organization with a<br />

growing profile in the<br />

region. Read the story<br />

“Beyond Branding” by<br />

Andrew Coppolino on<br />

page 14.<br />

Photo by Gary Evans<br />

Photography.<br />

© <strong>2019</strong> <strong>Eatdrink</strong> Inc. and the writers.<br />

All rights reserved.<br />

Reproduction or duplication of any material published in<br />

<strong>Eatdrink</strong> or on <strong>Eatdrink</strong>.ca is strictly prohibited without<br />

the written permis sion of the Publisher. <strong>Eatdrink</strong> has a<br />

regular printed circulation, replicated in full online, and is<br />

published six times annually. The views or opinions expressed<br />

in the information, content and/or advertisements published<br />

in <strong>Eatdrink</strong> or online are solely those of the author(s) and do<br />

not necessarily represent those of the Publisher. The Publisher<br />

welcomes submissions but accepts no responsibility for<br />

unsolicited material.<br />

commercial | digital | wide format | design<br />

Let us help with your next project...<br />

519.866.5558 | ben@sportswood.on.ca<br />


Contents<br />

Issue #W5 | <strong>February</strong>/<strong>March</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

Publisher’s Notes<br />

Making a Magazine<br />

Serving Readers and Advertisers<br />

in Equal Measure<br />


6<br />

Restaurants<br />

<strong>Waterloo</strong>/Cambridge Pioneers<br />

A Brief History of<br />

Cerny Hospitality Group<br />


8<br />

Beyond Branding<br />

B•Hospitality, in Southwestern Ontario<br />


14<br />

Wine<br />

The One That’s In Your Glass<br />

Favourite Wines ... Year ’Round<br />


18<br />

Beer<br />

All-Stars<br />

My Top Picks for <strong>2019</strong><br />


21<br />

8<br />

14<br />

26<br />

39<br />

44<br />

Road Trips<br />

I Love Paris When it Sizzles<br />

Paris, Ontario<br />


26<br />

The BUZZ<br />

Culinary Community Notes<br />

New and Notable<br />

30<br />

Recipes<br />

Yum & Yummer<br />

Ridiculously Tasty Recipes<br />

Review & Recipe Selections by TRACY TURLIN<br />

39<br />

Books<br />

Plate of Darkness<br />

Apocalyse Chow<br />

Review by DARIN COOK<br />

44<br />

The Lighter Side<br />

Behind Closed Doors<br />


46<br />

21<br />


o u r n o t - s o - s e c r e t " s e c r e t "<br />

c o m i n g s o o n t o # d t k

6 | <strong>February</strong>/<strong>March</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Publisher’s Notes<br />

Making a Magazine<br />

Serving Readers and Advertisers in Equal Measure<br />


There is nothing more exciting, and<br />

terrifying, than a blank sheet of<br />

paper for a writer. Of course, for<br />

most of us today, that is a blinking<br />

cursor in a new Word document on an<br />

otherwise empty screen. Like a skier looking<br />

down on an untracked hill of powder snow,<br />

we plunge ahead anticipating an exciting<br />

run but are somewhat unsure of how we<br />

will successfully<br />

navigate our way<br />

down the page. The<br />

creative process is<br />

underway.<br />

Each issue of<br />

<strong>Eatdrink</strong> magazine<br />

begins something<br />

like this. We set<br />

forth with some<br />

definite ideas in<br />

mind, but each<br />

writer is on an<br />

independent<br />

journey with their contribution. Their<br />

individual ski runs conclude with an emailed<br />

file to our Managing Editor Cecilia Buy,<br />

who takes a keen eye to their submission,<br />

ascertaining that they fulfilled their<br />

assignment with the grace we expect. Kym<br />

Wolfe is our diligent proofreader. Our Food<br />

Editor Bryan Lavery has a look as well, with<br />

the goal of ensuring that we are accessible but<br />

also accurate and appealing to the sophisticated<br />

diners and drinkers in our readership.<br />

While all this has been going on, our<br />

salespeople have been working on the other<br />

side of this business. While we place our<br />

editorial content as primary to maintaining<br />

our relevancy to readers, our advertisers are<br />

the lifeblood of the operation. Without them,<br />

we can’t afford to publish our efforts.<br />

Each ad is like each story, with a goal in<br />

mind, a beginning and an end. Studies have<br />

proven that the magazine reader sees the<br />

ads as integral to their experience of the<br />

magazine; they pay attention to them. In most<br />

other media, ads must work twice as hard to<br />

engage the reader, whose goal there is NOT<br />

to pay attention to the ads or commercials.<br />

Magazine ads have a definite advantage.<br />

About half of the ads in <strong>Eatdrink</strong> are<br />

supplied to us, and for the rest, we are directly<br />

engaged in the creative process of making a<br />

successful ad. Ultimately, readers make the<br />

decision on where<br />

they spend their<br />

money, but we<br />

give them plenty<br />

of enticing ideas.<br />

Marrying the<br />

ads with the<br />

editorial in a way<br />

that is pleasing<br />

for the reader<br />

and effective for<br />

the advertiser<br />

is the final task.<br />

We engage with<br />

readers on our website and through social<br />

media, and take that VERY seriously, but the<br />

magazine is the most tangible expression of<br />

our relationship with readers and advertisers.<br />

We have publishing <strong>Eatdrink</strong> since 2007 in<br />

London, Stratford and most of the western<br />

corner of Southwestern Ontario, but this<br />

is our first year with what I often call our<br />

“sister publication” serving <strong>Waterloo</strong> Region<br />

and <strong>Wellington</strong> County. We watched this<br />

incredibly vital culinary scene with some envy<br />

and anticipation for a number of years before<br />

the timing was right. We’re thankful for the<br />

welcome we’ve received, the amazing people<br />

we have met, and the invaluable connections<br />

that we have forged, but these are still early<br />

days. We’re excited to bring another great<br />

issue to you, and hope everyone is as pleased<br />

with this magazine as we are. That is our goal.<br />


APRIL 25 th <strong>2019</strong><br />

London Convention Centre<br />

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>February</strong>/<strong>March</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 7<br />

featuring<br />

Chef Michael Smith<br />

Tickets<br />

only $200<br />

Lindey McIntyre<br />

519 . 642-7589<br />

bethanyshope.org<br />

Signature Sponsor<br />

Gold Sponsors<br />

an interactive<br />

Dinner Party!<br />

5PM<br />

Appetizer Action<br />

Stations<br />

Silent Auction<br />

7PM<br />

Dinner Service<br />

Evening Program<br />

Live Auction<br />

Supporting Leukodystrophy Research - London, ON

8 | <strong>February</strong>/<strong>March</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Restaurants<br />

<strong>Waterloo</strong>/Cambridge Pioneers<br />

A Brief History of Cerny Hospitality Group<br />

Blackshop Restaurant • Solé Restaurant and Wine Bar • Melville Café<br />


With a 35-year history that<br />

began at the Blackshop<br />

Restaurant in the community<br />

of Galt in Cambridge, Cerny<br />

Hospitality has the distinction of being one<br />

of the pioneers of food entrepreneurism in<br />

Cambridge and <strong>Waterloo</strong> Region.<br />

“My mom and dad, Jan and Eva, opened<br />

Blackshop in 1983 as a 32-seat bistro on<br />

Ainslie Street North. I was about ten years<br />

old,” says their son John Cerny.<br />

The young Cerny started washing dishes<br />

and making salads and desserts in a family<br />

business that has grown to three restaurants<br />

in two cities: Blackshop and Melville Café in<br />

Cambridge and Solé in <strong>Waterloo</strong>. In building<br />

the hospitality group, with three different<br />

restaurant concepts, one thing Cerny has<br />

learned is that a restaurant has a soul. “It<br />

takes its own direction in a way. You can try<br />

to control it, and you can try to guide it, but<br />

it’s like a kid in a way. When customers ask for<br />

a certain type of food or wine or experience,<br />

you try to provide it,” Cerny says. At all<br />

venues, though, virtually everything served<br />

is made in-house, from demi-glace and breads<br />

to cheesecakes and other pastries, in-house.<br />

Overseeing it all is Dan Potter, Executive Chef<br />

of the group of restaurants, who joined the<br />

company in 1998.<br />

A Tale of Two Environments<br />

The Cerny tradition of paying attention to the<br />

details of food and hospitality service started<br />

6,000 kilometers from Cambridge. Jan Cerny<br />

went through formal hospitality training<br />

in the Czech Republic and began his career<br />

tending bar and managing restaurants. In the<br />

family’s last few years in the Czech Republic,<br />

Jan managed a ski resort and hotel in the<br />

Krkonose Mountains. “The family lived at the<br />

hotel,” John Cerny says. “My brother Alec<br />

Blackshop — where Jan Cerny started the tradition of<br />

hospitality in Canada for the Cerny family

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

and I grew up skiing. It was a beautiful<br />

environment to grow up in.”<br />

But realpolitik soon played a role.<br />

The Cernys came to Canada in 1980.<br />

John’s brother Alec (who passed<br />

away suddenly in 2013) had wanted<br />

to attend a particular hotel school<br />

in the Czech Republic but was not<br />

allowed to because the family were not<br />

members of the Communist Party. “My<br />

parents didn’t want us growing up in<br />

that environment,” Cerny says. The<br />

decision made overnight, the family left<br />

everything behind and took a significant<br />

risk to flee the country: they headed to<br />

Yugoslavia, ostensibly for a vacation. “We<br />

informed officials that we were having<br />

car troubles on our way back home and<br />

cut back through Austria and filed for<br />

political asylum there,” he says, adding<br />

that they were there about six months<br />

before being accepted by Canada and<br />

landing in Cornwall. The family never<br />

looked back; a relatively short three years<br />

later, they became restaurateurs and<br />

entrepreneurs, with Blackshop.<br />

In the meantime, none of the four<br />

spoke much English, but Jan got a job<br />

as a dishwasher at the London Hunt<br />

and Country Club before ending up in<br />

Kitchener — in what would turn out<br />

to be a serendipitous coincidence. “In<br />

1982, my father got a job working for<br />

Henry Krebs at the Ali Baba on Hespeler<br />

Road, and in precisely the same spot as<br />

Blackshop operates today,” Cerny says.<br />

“Though his English was still limited,<br />

he eventually decided he wanted to<br />

open his own restaurant and left Ali<br />

Baba to take the little house on Ainslie<br />

Street and turn it into a bistro.” The<br />

restaurant’s Blackshop name alludes to<br />

a family friend who was a blacksmith<br />

and created the original ornamental sign and<br />

ironwork. “The chandeliers that are above<br />

the chef’s table at the current restaurant<br />

are the originals,” Cerny says. With its oldworld<br />

approach to food and service, other<br />

than Greystones Restaurant and Scallions<br />

Blackshop was a primary destination for<br />

upscale dining in Cambridge — and it offered<br />

the first licensed dining patio in the city, too.<br />

A Family Business<br />

Jan instituted formal service at the Ainslie<br />

Street Blackshop but with genuine care for<br />

<strong>February</strong>/<strong>March</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 9<br />

Melville Cafe is next to the Grand River in Cambridge<br />

building relationships with customers. It’s<br />

something that Cerny says has been carried<br />

on through all the businesses. “The staff is<br />

like family, and customers, both old and new,<br />

are an extension of that family.” After nineand-a-half<br />

years on Ainslie Street, and after<br />

Alec had graduated in business from Western<br />

University (John is a George Brown culinary<br />

graduate), the family decided to move the<br />

restaurant to Hobson Street. John designed<br />

the kitchen and worked with the chefs; Alec<br />

did all the financials, including what John<br />

calls “crazy magic” to make it happen. “The

10 | <strong>February</strong>/<strong>March</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

move was a big risk,” he says. “There<br />

were few restaurants on the west side<br />

of Galt in 1992.”<br />

With its continental, northern<br />

European orientation, Blackshop<br />

stayed at the location until 2006<br />

when the family bought the building<br />

on Hespeler Road where Jan Cerny<br />

had earlier worked for Henry<br />

Krebs, and re-opened the 210-seat<br />

restaurant in 2007. Cerny points out<br />

the attention to detail that was paid<br />

in planning the various areas and<br />

rooms of the restaurant — each with<br />

its own atmosphere and yet with<br />

interconnected character — and the<br />

décor that is an homage to the Ainslie<br />

Street Blackshop.<br />

Throughout the evolution of the<br />

company both brothers essentially<br />

shared duties and oversight. However,<br />

in time John decided he didn’t want to<br />

stay in the kitchen and enrolled in the<br />

Bachelor of Commerce program in the<br />

School of Hospitality, Food and Tourism<br />

Management at University of Guelph.<br />

By 1997 Jan had started to slow down<br />

and take steps toward retirement — and<br />

the two brothers started thinking about<br />

another venture.<br />

“We had a café concept in mind<br />

but couldn’t find the right place.”<br />

They eventually learned about an old<br />

Seagram building in <strong>Waterloo</strong> where<br />

the Mediterranean-inspired Solé now<br />

operates: it had been empty for a decade<br />

— “a bird sanctuary,” Cerny called<br />

it — and was slated for demolition.<br />

Notwithstanding, in 1999 Solé was<br />

born. It was a big leap for the Cerny<br />

family, as well as for the building’s<br />

owner, to supply the needed services.<br />

“<strong>Waterloo</strong> already had the amazing<br />

Janet Lynn’s Bistro at that time but<br />

nothing with the Mediterranean<br />

element that we offered,” he says. The<br />

beam, post and brick interior of the<br />

150-year-old building is amplified by<br />

the rich and striking natural lighting<br />

— Solé — that pours into the 130-seat<br />

dining room.<br />

The Mediterranean-inspired Solé operates in<br />

the former Seagram building in <strong>Waterloo</strong>.<br />

A Full Portfolio<br />

While Alec has worked the numbers,<br />

John has seen to operations for the<br />

group. They always worked together,

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

and still did with the arrival of Solé, but the<br />

roles solidified to a degree: John managed Solé<br />

and Alec, Blackshop. Solé became successful<br />

quickly, a fortunate development that inspired<br />

the family to start contemplating yet another<br />

project: the City of Cambridge and the<br />

University of <strong>Waterloo</strong> School of Architecture<br />

approached them about creating a café in<br />

downtown Galt. “We developed a concept that<br />

would serve more than faculty and students.<br />

We came back to the previous café concept<br />

we had had and added more food service,<br />

with the same philosophy and approach as<br />

the other restaurants when it came to caring<br />

service.” Melville Café opened alongside the<br />

Grand River in 2004. “With three restaurants,<br />

we had our hands full,” Cerny admits, quickly<br />

adding there are no plans for a future venture<br />

at this juncture. The growth of Cerny<br />

Hospitality has allowed him to reflect. “The<br />

changes in food in <strong>Waterloo</strong> Region have been<br />

crazy over the time we’ve been here,” says<br />

Cerny, noting that the general public’s level<br />

of knowledge and education in food has, even<br />

in the last ten years, grown immensely. “It<br />

pushes everybody to improve and evolve.”<br />

A Legacy of Genuine Service<br />

In November 2018 Jan Cerny passed away.<br />

The family aspect of the business, including<br />

the staff and the relationships with loyal<br />

customers, remains the central focus at Cerny<br />

Hospitality because that is Jan’s legacy —<br />

and that has never been lost on John Cerny<br />

from the time he was a ten-year-old. “On the<br />

service side, it still comes down to genuine<br />

care that has been a core value for us. I don’t<br />

think that has changed.”<br />

Blackshop Restaurant<br />

595 Hespeler Road, Cambridge<br />

519 621-4180<br />

info@blackshop.ca<br />

monday to thursday: 11 am–10 pm<br />

friday and saturday: 11 am–11 pm<br />

sunday: 11 am–9 pm<br />

something<br />

for<br />


Cambridge Farmers’<br />

Market<br />

Circa 1830<br />

Saturday Year Round<br />

7:00am - 1:00pm<br />

www.cambridgefarmersmarket.ca<br />

Melville Café<br />

7 Melville Street, Cambridge<br />

519-624-3984<br />

catering@melvillecafe.ca<br />

monday to friday: 8:30 am–8 pm<br />

saturday & sunday: 8:30 am–4 pm<br />

ANDREW COPPOLINO is a Kitchener-based writer<br />

and broadcaster. He is publisher of <strong>Waterloo</strong> Region<br />

Eats (waterlooregioneats.com). Andrew also serves as a<br />

regional <strong>Eatdrink</strong> Editorial Consultant.<br />

Solé Restaurant and Wine Bar<br />

83 Erb Street West, <strong>Waterloo</strong>,<br />

519-747-5622<br />

sole.ca<br />

monday–thursday: 11:30 am to 10 pm<br />

friday: 11:30 am to 11 pm<br />

saturday: 11 am to 11 pm<br />

sunday: 11 am to 9 pm

12 | <strong>February</strong>/<strong>March</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

Stratford is<br />

more than<br />

great theatre<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

visitstratford.ca<br />

um<br />

A restaurant inspired by<br />

local ingredients.<br />

Run by workers.<br />

Owned by workers.<br />

Shared by the Community.<br />

Open Thursday through Monday<br />

Reservations Recommended<br />

64 <strong>Wellington</strong> St, Stratford<br />

redrabbitresto.com<br />

519.305.6464<br />

@redrabbitresto<br />

global tapas with local ingredients<br />

fresh cocktails<br />

Perfect for dinner, drinks and long conversations<br />

Thursday through Sunday from 5pm<br />

85 Downie St, Stratford<br />

(next to Avon Theatre)<br />

519.305.8585<br />


<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

“A fun place to shop<br />

for housewares and gifts!”<br />

<strong>February</strong>/<strong>March</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 13<br />

From kettles and toasters to bread bins<br />

and paper towel holders, Swan Retro ...<br />

a timeless British classic combined<br />

with a contemporary design.<br />

WATSON’S<br />


84 Ontario St. Stratford<br />

watsonsofstratford.com<br />


14 | <strong>February</strong>/<strong>March</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

Restaurants<br />

Beyond Branding<br />

B•Hospitality, in Southwestern Ontario<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

B•Hospitality • Bruce Craft House • The Bruce Caboose • B@THEMUSEUM<br />

B•Elegant Catering & Event Planning • LOT42 Global Flex Campus<br />


Whenever opportunity<br />

has popped up, a certain<br />

Cambridge-based food and<br />

hospitality company has<br />

taken advantage. B•Hospitality is the group<br />

of companies that came into being in 2017<br />

and which includes the Cambridge Hotel<br />

and Conference Centre, B @ THEMUSEUM,<br />

The Bruce Caboose and Bruce Beast food<br />

trucks, and an impressive new kitchen<br />

facility at Kitchener’s equally impressive<br />

Lot42. The company got its start around 2005<br />

when the Guelph-based Skyline Group of<br />

Companies, co-founded by Martin Castellan,<br />

began contemplating a joint hotel concept.<br />

Unfortunately, Future Inns hotelier Bruce<br />

Brett, a partner in the business arrangement<br />

and someone who had become a mentor,<br />

passed away suddenly and plans were forced<br />

to change.<br />

Opportunity persisted, and in 2007 The<br />

Cambridge Hotel and Conference Centre<br />

opened, with good food in the community as<br />

a focus. “We wanted a full-service restaurant<br />

in the hotel because that adds to the guest<br />

experience, and we wanted to operate it in<br />

order to control our own destiny,” Castellan<br />

says. The restaurant was named The Bruce<br />

(and later Bruce Craft House) in Brett’s<br />

honour. The focus was for the venue to be<br />

“Cambridge’s hotel” and satisfy guests in<br />

terms of comfort and accessibility when<br />

it came to accommodation and dining, at<br />

the same time that it captured a share of<br />

the Cambridge community’s interest in<br />

the region’s burgeoning food and beverage<br />

While enjoying the culinary and beverage<br />

offerings at the Bruce Craft House, patrons can<br />

also savour such design touches as the elegant<br />

Chiavari chairs and crafted harvest table.

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

The plated salad (right), also seen on our<br />

cover, is from the 80 Ton room at Lot 42.<br />

Below right, the charcuterie board is from<br />

The Factory at Lot 42.<br />

scene. “There were lineups at The Keg<br />

because they do steak well,” according<br />

to Castellan. “We had to figure out what<br />

we could do well and give good value<br />

and comfort, and that’s the way it has<br />

evolved.” That aspect of the business<br />

model is the purview of Regional<br />

Executive Chef Aaron Clyne, who joined<br />

the company to develop the food and<br />

beverage program and shape its local<br />

nature. “Between 2010 and 2015, we<br />

spent a lot of time forging relationships<br />

with farmers and producers and our<br />

other partners, as well as finding the<br />

right staff and building the brand in<br />

the community,” says Clyne, a graduate<br />

of the George Brown College culinary<br />

program.<br />

In 2015 the group added the Bruce<br />

Caboose food truck. “We started to<br />

realize that the demand for the food and<br />

beverage we were offering was more than<br />

we could sustain within the Cambridge<br />

Hotel, so we took it to the people out<br />

in the surrounding community,” Clyne<br />

says. When Imbibe in THEMUSEUM in<br />

central downtown Kitchener closed in<br />

the same year, they took over the space<br />

and re-branded it as B @ THEMUSEUM, a<br />

quaint and cozy bar that is hugely popular<br />

with lovers of a diverse range of craft beer.<br />

“Our Managing Director Billie-Anne Arthur<br />

brought it to my attention, and we thought<br />

that it might be a good opportunity to work<br />

out some more catering,” Castellan says,<br />

adding that a Kitchener presence would also<br />

give the company a more regional face. And<br />

the catering, in fact, was growing.<br />

The following year the group launched<br />

B•Elegant Catering and Event Planning,<br />

before adding The Bruce Beast food truck<br />

to its rapidly growing portfolio in 2017.<br />

“We also revamped the Bruce Restaurant<br />

and Lounge and re-branded it Bruce Craft<br />

House,” says Clyne. The restaurant is a<br />

collaborative effort between the Cambridge<br />

Hotel and B•Hospitality with touchstones<br />

fire, craft beer and local food; a focus of<br />

the restaurant is the stone pizza oven that<br />

is used to make pizza, breads and bagels.<br />

There are about a dozen craft beers on tap.<br />

All of that opportunity was topped off in<br />

2018 when B•Hospitality built a magnificent<br />

7,500-square-foot catering and events kitchen<br />

at Kitchener’s mammoth Lot42, where the<br />

company is the food and beverage partner.<br />

Referred to as a “global flex campus,” Lot42 is a<br />

17-acre industrial complex built six decades ago<br />

on Ardelt Place, replete with original windows,<br />

open-web steel-joist ceilings, a gantry crane<br />

from the 1950s which straddles the space — one<br />

room of which alone occupies about 40,000<br />

square feet. “It’s what [Lot42 owner] Ron Doyle<br />

called an ‘industrial gothic cathedral.’ You don’t<br />

purpose-build something like that, but it’s<br />

there and it’s a unique and amazing space,” says<br />

Castellan. “The kitchen gives us the opportunity<br />

to do a lot of catering, and the team is excited to<br />

build the venue as a showcase piece.”<br />

The business’s evolution represents “a lot<br />

of growth in less than four years,” according<br />

to Clyne, but the idea of local food has never<br />

been lost. “To ask if you’re focused on local<br />

is a loaded question nowadays,” Clyne says.<br />

“The term has been used as a sales pitch, but<br />

I firmly believe it should refer to how you<br />

operate. We do a lot of fantastic things in this<br />

region, and I don’t think enough restaurants<br />

are capitalizing on that, though a lot more are<br />

now. I knew a lot of farmers and producers

16 | <strong>February</strong>/<strong>March</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

B•Hospitality is the food and beverage partner at Kitchener’s Lot<br />

42. Below, comfortable leather chairs line the long table.<br />

from the past, and they do some great stuff.<br />

It just makes sense to work with them now,”<br />

says Clyne, who is conscious of minimizing<br />

the restaurants’ carbon footprint at the same<br />

time as showcasing great local products. The<br />

range of local product they use is significant<br />

too; the hotel’s in-room amenities might<br />

include simple maple syrup or chocolates<br />

made by Reid, but at the same time at Lot42<br />

crews are breaking down entire Wagyu cattle<br />

that come from a farm in St. Jacobs — and<br />

dry-aging it for 90 days in preparation for a<br />

company function. All the poultry comes from<br />

local farms, including Tanjo Family Farm in<br />

Millbank.<br />

Castellan is also a co-owner of Four<br />

Fathers Brewing located on Guelph Avenue in<br />

Hespeler, which is allied with B•Hospitality<br />

but operated independently. Three flagship<br />

beers are available at The Beer Store and<br />

LCBO, and about a dozen seasonal and oneoff<br />

products are available at the brewery,<br />

which also houses a small pub. “Certainly, any<br />

synergy and cooperation we can have with<br />

B•Hospitality, we’re game for that,” Castellan<br />

says. For his part, Clyne loves the<br />

beer scene. “It has just exploded. You<br />

once had to go seek out a craft beer<br />

spot, which was great for the craft<br />

beer spot but not for the consumer.<br />

Now everywhere has it, and it’s really<br />

accessible. There is so much going on<br />

with so many great breweries.” While<br />

he admits that it makes the industry<br />

more competitive, it also makes things<br />

more exciting.<br />

Future opportunities are, in ways,<br />

in progress currently, given the<br />

techniques and experiments that the<br />

kitchen at Lot42 is engaged in. “In the<br />

dry-age fridge right now we have a full<br />

bone-in tomahawk-style Wagyu rib<br />

that has been going for about 75 days,”<br />

says Clyne. There’s also cheese-making,<br />

smoking and curing that take place.<br />

“We do a lot of butchery. We’ll bring<br />

in 300 ducks and break them down<br />

and ship them to our various venues,”<br />

he adds. In a sense, it’s a production<br />

facility that is farm-to-kitchen where<br />

a farmer can pre-sell an entire lot of<br />

birds or beef. “It certainly makes the<br />

farmers’ business a lot easier and ours<br />

too when I know I don’t have to go<br />

to ten different farmers,” Clyne says.<br />

“We’re almost exclusive with most of<br />

our producers.” If you ask Castellan what’s<br />

ahead for the growing company, he, on the<br />

one hand, speaks generally that “this has been<br />

an evolution that’s about building a team<br />

and capability;” on the other, however, that<br />

team will be focused on the Lot42 kitchen, at<br />

least in the immediate future, no matter what<br />

shapes it assumes. “We want to showcase<br />

that kitchen as best we can,” says Castellan,<br />

noting that it can also be an instructional and<br />

demonstration space. “We want to be able to<br />

offer exciting and unique food experiences for<br />

people.”<br />

B•Hospitality<br />

bhospitality.ca<br />

Bruce Craft House<br />

in the Cambridge Hotel & Conference Centre<br />

700 Hespeler Road, Cambridge<br />

cambridgehotel.ca/the-bruce-craft-house/<br />

monday–thursday: 6 am–11 pm<br />

friday & saturday: 7 am–midnight<br />

sunday: 7 am–10:30 pm<br />

holidays: 7 am–10 pm

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

The Bruce Caboose<br />

cambridgehotel.ca/food-truck/<br />


10 King Street W., Kitchener<br />

519-742-2337<br />

bhere.ca/themuseum/<br />

monday: closed (available for private events)<br />

tuesday–thursday: 11 am–11 pm<br />

friday: 11 am–1 am<br />

saturday: 11 am–midnight<br />

sunday: 11 am–4pm (Brunch served all day)<br />

B•Elegant Catering & Event Planning<br />

belegant.ca<br />

LOT42 Global Flex Campus<br />

41 Ardelt Place, Kitchener<br />

519 603-5700<br />

For info on all spaces go to lot42.ca/our-spaces<br />

<strong>February</strong>/<strong>March</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 17<br />

Farm to table award winning<br />

hand crafted alpine style cheese<br />

Gift Baskets &<br />

Gift Boxes<br />

Cheese Trays<br />

Fondue & Raclette<br />

Fresh Curds<br />

Tuesday to Friday 9am–5pm<br />

Saturday 9am–4pm<br />

Stonetown Artisan Cheese<br />

5021 Perth Line 8<br />

St. Marys ON<br />

ANDREW COPPOLINO is a Kitchener-based writer<br />

and broadcaster. He is publisher of <strong>Waterloo</strong> Region<br />

Eats (waterlooregioneats.com). Andrew also serves as a<br />

regional <strong>Eatdrink</strong> Editorial Consultant.<br />

519-229-6856<br />

info@stonetowncheese.com<br />

www.stonetowncheese.com<br />



42 Ainslie Street North, Cambridge | 519 621 6988 • 1 800 387 7731<br />


39 Elgin Street South, Cambridge | 226 616 0720<br />


55 Wyndham Street North, Guelph | 519 265 8698

18 | <strong>February</strong>/<strong>March</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Wine<br />

The One That’s In Your Glass<br />

Favourite Wines ... Year ’Round<br />


What’s your favourite wine?<br />

Ask a dozen people and you<br />

will probably get 12 different<br />

answers. It’s a question I get<br />

asked all the time and for me there is no right<br />

answer. I like wine and I like a lot of different<br />

wines so I often use this canned reply: “My<br />

favourite wine is the one that is in my glass.”<br />

I follow up this impudent response by asking<br />

them what their favourite wine is.<br />

Now, I’m aware that many who ask me<br />

this question are doing so with the intention<br />

of learning a little bit more about wine. So<br />

when they tell me that they drink only red or<br />

white wine, I regard it as an opportunity to<br />

introduce them to something different.<br />

For me, wine really depends on the season,<br />

and often on the food I will be pairing it<br />

with. In the summer I tend to open more<br />

chilled, crisp white wines and in the winter<br />

find that I often reach for full-bodied reds.<br />

Change is good, and sometimes having a<br />

lively pinot grigio on a cold winter night just<br />

seems so right.<br />

There are several wines that I do tend<br />

to open a little more frequently<br />

throughout the year. These are<br />

inexpensive wines that offer<br />

amazing quality for the price. I<br />

guess you could call these some of<br />

my favourites.<br />

Vineland Cabernet<br />

Franc (LCBO <strong>#5</strong>94127, $14.95)<br />

— On a recent visit to the<br />

LCBO I found bottles of both<br />

the 2016 and 2017 vintages on<br />

the shelf. The wine geek that I<br />

am saw an opportunity to do a<br />

vertical tasting. Both vintages<br />

offered ripe blackberry, juicy<br />

cherry, and a hint of cedar.<br />

Noticeably missing in both<br />

(and, to me, a good thing) were<br />

those herbaceous green bell pepper notes that<br />

are often found in Ontario cab francs. Both<br />

were fruity and medium bodied.<br />

Vineland Estate Winery, located on the<br />

Niagara Escarpment, is one of Ontario’s top<br />

producers of cabernet franc. A 2015 reserve<br />

cabernet franc with a $50 price tag sold<br />

out quickly at LCBO’s Vintages locations<br />

and between 2018 and <strong>2019</strong>. Vineland’s<br />

winemaker will release a series of six “Cab<br />

Ride” wines that are all about “terroir.” They<br />

will come from six different Niagara vineyards<br />

(Neumann, Smith, Van Bers, Nichol, Hunter,<br />

Briar Creek). They are reported to all taste<br />

remarkably different even though the only<br />

difference is where the grapes are grown.<br />

These wines will first be made available<br />

to Vineland wine club members. Any that<br />

remain unsold they will be made available to<br />

the general public.<br />

For details on Vineland’s wine club visit<br />

vineland.com<br />

Pelee Island Pinot Noir Reserve<br />

(LCBO #458521, $17.95) — Good Ontario<br />

pinot noir can get a bit pricey. From time to<br />

time I have seen this wine on sale and I stock<br />

up. Pinot noir is so versatile. It<br />

pairs well with many dishes but is<br />

also enjoyable on its own.<br />

The 2017 Pelee Island Winery<br />

reserve pinot noir was 50%<br />

barrel-aged in French and<br />

European oak for six months.<br />

Red berry fruit surrounded<br />

by subtle vanilla and earthy<br />

notes. Ripe, crisp finish.<br />

I recently paired this<br />

wine with fresh grilled<br />

Atlantic salmon with citrus<br />

marinated plum tomatoes<br />

and balsamic reduction. It<br />

was perfect!

Your Local, Fresh and Wholesome Gourmet Market.<br />

We are passionate about Food and Community!<br />

We may not bottle<br />

a bordeaux, but we<br />

do share the<br />

same latitude.<br />

Come explore Canada’s<br />

Hottest Wine Region. Our<br />

vineyards produce wines that<br />

compete with prestigious<br />

wineries around the world.<br />

Enjoy our scenic wine route<br />

by taking an unforgettable<br />

road trip, or if you’re feeling<br />

adventurous, pedal your way<br />

around the county.<br />

Sprucewood Shores Estate Winery | Amherstburg<br />



eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Time to plan your next<br />

Road Trip to Lambton County!<br />

Our new drink trail allows you to sip<br />

and savour in any order you prefer.<br />

Quai Du Vin Signature Series<br />

White (LCBO #485821, $15.35) — I first<br />

tasted this wine last summer when visiting<br />

the winery. I purchased a couple of bottles<br />

on that trip and later wished I had<br />

picked up a few more. I shared it<br />

with company and everyone liked<br />

it. I am happy to see that it is now<br />

available at the LCBO, although<br />

currently somewhat limited in<br />

locations and supply. Buy some if<br />

you find it!<br />

An off-dry blend of riesling,<br />

vidal, pinot gris, and seyval<br />

blanc. Fermented in a<br />

combination of steel tanks and<br />

older French oak barrels, then<br />

blended. Red apple, pear, and<br />

lemon fruit notes dominate<br />

with a tasty off-dry lingering<br />

finish.<br />

Refined Fool<br />

Twin Pines Orchards<br />

& Cider House<br />

Alton Farms Estate Winery<br />

Widder Station Golf,<br />

Grill & Tap House<br />

Refined Fool (2 locations)<br />

Stonepicker Brewing Co.<br />

Widder Station Golf, Grill & Tap House<br />

Munro Honey & Meadery<br />

Twin Pines Orchards & Cider House<br />

Alton Farms Estate Winery<br />

Dark Horse Estate Winery<br />

Smackwater Tours –Transportation Service<br />

Wines To Look For<br />

Several issues ago I wrote an article<br />

on Alton Farms Estate Winery,<br />

which is located in Plympton-<br />

Wyoming, about an hour west of<br />

London. Since then the winery<br />

has been able to have<br />

two of their wines<br />

available in select<br />

LCBO locations in<br />

Lambton, Middlesex<br />

and Oxford<br />

counties. Both are<br />

$16.20<br />

GARY KILLOPS is a CAPS Certified<br />

Sommelier who loves to talk, taste, and<br />

write about wine. He shares his tasting<br />

notes on EssexWineReview.com<br />

Download the trail map at<br />

www.ontbluecoast.com<br />

1 800 265 0316

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>February</strong>/<strong>March</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 21<br />

Beer<br />

All-Stars<br />

My Top Picks for <strong>2019</strong><br />


Anderson Winter. An amber<br />

ale spiced with cinnamon,<br />

orange, honey and ginger,<br />

Anderson Winter makes a<br />

beer drinker thankful for<br />

the cold weather when this<br />

seasonal from London’s Old<br />

East Village brewer reappears.<br />

True, Anderson is better<br />

known for its IPA and cream<br />

ale, but Winter holds special<br />

appeal. A fireside classic, even if the recipe is<br />

only two years old.<br />

Black Swan English Pale<br />

Ale. The Stratford brewery<br />

rebooted itself with a<br />

renovation and expansion<br />

last fall, and a commitment<br />

to creative new one-offs<br />

and seasonals. But no<br />

amount of recipe wizardry<br />

is likely to unseat this EPA<br />

as one of the biggest joys of<br />

the Southwestern Ontario craft beer galaxy if,<br />

like me, you like your beer malt-forward with<br />

a hint of hops.<br />

Cowbell Shindig. Sure, before opening<br />

their own barn-shaped brewery<br />

in Blyth they<br />

started by contract<br />

brewing Absent<br />

Landlord, a kolsch, and<br />

that’s likely the Cowbell<br />

beer most people know<br />

from the LCBO. But opening<br />

their own brewery has<br />

meant a dizzy whirl of<br />

new beer introductions<br />

Remember the Smash Mouth song<br />

All Star from the Shrek soundtrack?<br />

It’s an earworm right now as I think<br />

about my votes for the NHL all-star<br />

team and, since hockey and beer go handin-hand,<br />

has me wondering. If there were an<br />

all-star team of Southwestern Ontario craft<br />

beers, what would it look like?<br />

I know where my 12-pack of votes would<br />

land. Here goes.<br />

and while many are more flavourful and<br />

exotic, none hit the mark like Shindig Lager,<br />

a sessionable beer for all occasions<br />

and the biggest seller at the brewery.<br />

Elora Borealis. This grapefruity<br />

pale ale won a gold medal at the<br />

2018 Ontario Brewing Awards and,<br />

while it’s available at the LCBO, it’s<br />

best enjoyed fresh at the brewpub<br />

in the pretty <strong>Wellington</strong> County<br />

village of Elora. Maybe pair it with<br />

the pub’s warm pretzel and wild<br />

boar summer sausage platter before<br />

taking a stroll to the gorge or a short<br />

drive to the unique <strong>Wellington</strong><br />

County Museum, located in the<br />

oldest standing poorhouse in Canada. The joy<br />

of craft beer is in the journey of discovery.<br />

Forked River Golden Boy. Released<br />

last fall in specially labelled cans as a<br />

tribute to London Olympic gold medal<br />

bobsledder Alex Kopacz, Golden Boy<br />

is a super easy drinking Belgian-style<br />

ale. The aroma is stone fruit, the wee<br />

spicy kick is from the yeast.<br />

This one’s podium-worthy<br />

and available at the<br />

brewery or its online<br />

store.<br />

Innocente Charcoal<br />

Porter. Is there something<br />

about Kitchener-<strong>Waterloo</strong> and dark<br />

beers? Innocente’s Charcoal Porter,<br />

a collaboration with Beertown<br />

restaurants, won a gold medal at the<br />

2015 Canadian Brewing Awards, and<br />

deservedly so. Think roasted barley


VISIT<br />







HOURS<br />

STORE<br />

1OAM-7PM<br />


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US<br />


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and you get the idea behind this<br />

lighter-than-usual porter.<br />

Railway City Witty Traveller.<br />

There’s the famous Dead Elephant<br />

IPA and the summertime classic<br />

Orange Creamsic Ale. But I like to<br />

show a little love for Witty Traveller,<br />

a Belgian-style wit that’s light (4.2<br />

per cent alcohol) and flavourful.<br />

Sons of Kent 8 Track XPA. A<br />

West Coast IPA, 8 Track cranks up<br />

the volume with flavour coming out of all<br />

speakers. Named in honour of a<br />

music format that’s never coming<br />

back, 8 Track is big on citrus. Is<br />

that mango? And grapefruit? Yes<br />

and yes, just as you’d expect from<br />

the style. Skilled Sons of Kent<br />

brewers use three types of hops<br />

— Cascade, Citra and Centennial<br />

— to brew 8 Track. Pairs well<br />

with Horse With No Name<br />

playing in the background.<br />

Stone House Pilsner. A little brewery with<br />

a big beer, Stone House takes a page from<br />

Toronto’s famous Steam Whistle<br />

by concentrating on brewing<br />

a Czech-style pilsner. It’s<br />

brewed with aromatic Saaz<br />

hops, the same type used in<br />

international beers such as<br />

Stella Artois. Getting a taste<br />

means a journey to Varna in<br />

Huron County.<br />

Upper Thames Timber Beast Brown Ale.<br />

Sure, the workers from around the corner at<br />

the Woodstock Toyota assembly plant might<br />

prefer to end their shifts with an Upper<br />

Thames Backpaddle Blonde or Portage IPA.<br />

But it’s the brown ale from Upper<br />

Thames that makes my all-star list.<br />

Little bit toffee, little bit coffee,<br />

and a whole lot of interesting.<br />

Enjoy it at the original brewery<br />

taphouse at 225 Bysham Park<br />

Rd. or at its sister Brickhouse<br />

Brew Pub at 190 Fairway Road.<br />

<strong>Waterloo</strong> Dark. I’m so torn. Do I vote a<br />

rookie beer, <strong>Waterloo</strong> Salted Caramel Porter,<br />

as an all-star or stick with a familiar favourite,<br />

<strong>Waterloo</strong> Dark. On one hand, <strong>Waterloo</strong> Dark<br />

has been my go-to from their roster for years<br />

and it’s easy to understand why the Kitchener

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

brewery bills it as Ontario’s<br />

favourite dark lager. But Salted<br />

Caramel Porter speaks to their<br />

spirit of taste adventures,<br />

despite how big they’ve become<br />

(<strong>Waterloo</strong> Brewing announced a<br />

$9.6-million expansion last fall).<br />

Dark’s here for the long term,<br />

but Salted Caramel is a seasonal<br />

available at the Beer Store and<br />

the brewery. Your call.<br />

<strong>Wellington</strong> County Imperial<br />

Russian Stout. If you’re still<br />

thinking craft beer is a phenomenon<br />

invented by millennials, think again.<br />

<strong>Wellington</strong> Brewery in Guelph has<br />

been brewing great craft beer in<br />

the shadow of Sleeman since 1985.<br />

While some will point to Upside IPA<br />

as its best beer, I’ll put its bear-like<br />

eight-per-cent-alcohol stout on my<br />

all-star team any time.<br />

GEORGE MACKE is a Southwestern Ontario craft beer<br />

explorer who spends too much time at the LCBO and craft<br />

breweries.<br />

Look for<br />

us in the<br />

LCBO!<br />


1030 ELIAS STREET, LONDON • 548-888-ALES<br />

’til ‘til the COWBELLs s come home!<br />

Now available for home for delivery! home VisitCOWBELLBREWING.COM<br />

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1-844-523-4724 WWW.COWBELLBREWIN

24 | <strong>February</strong>/<strong>March</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

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Serving <strong>Waterloo</strong> Region & <strong>Wellington</strong> County<br />


Little Louie’s Burger Joint<br />

& Soupery<br />

Retro, Refreshed, in Cambridge<br />

Rosé-Coloured Glasses<br />

The Trending Wine for Summer<br />

Serving <strong>Waterloo</strong> Region & <strong>Wellington</strong> County<br />

Let’s Get Grilling<br />

www.eatdrink.ca<br />

Recipes from The Cooking Ladies<br />

In June 2018, we began serving Kitchener, <strong>Waterloo</strong>,<br />

Cambridge & Guelph, as well as the rest of <strong>Waterloo</strong> Region<br />

and <strong>Wellington</strong> County, with a new and dedicated local<br />

publication. We invite you to join the conversation!<br />

We also continue to serve London, Stratford & Area with our original publication.<br />

<strong>Eatdrink</strong> is published every other month. We do NOT sell stories, and we offer FREE editorial support to the<br />

culinary community through our widely-read BUZZ column.<br />

Find more info, including our growing list of free pickup locations, at<br />

eatdrink.ca<br />

Or contact our publisher at chris@eatdrink.ca<br />

And Get Social!<br />

@eatdrinkmag<br />

Follow us to find even more reasons<br />

why <strong>Eatdrink</strong> should be part of your<br />

advertising and promotional program.

26 | <strong>February</strong>/<strong>March</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

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The Charms of Paris, Ontario<br />


Nestled in the valley where the Nith<br />

River meets the Grand, Paris benefits<br />

from its striking natural setting<br />

and its rich history dating back to<br />

1829, when the town was first settled. The wellpreserved<br />

buildings showcase architectural<br />

styles typical of small-town Ontario. The<br />

nickname “The Cobblestone Capital of Canada”<br />

pays homage to the churches and residences<br />

built with cobblestones pulled from the rivers.<br />

Voted “the Prettiest Little Town in Canada”<br />

by Harrowsmith Magazine, the town’s name<br />

originates from plaster of Paris, the product<br />

created from the gypsum beds that lay along the<br />

riverbed. Paris is the place to explore on a road<br />

trip or a weekend getaway.<br />

In the late 1800s the textile industry emerged<br />

as a key employer and economic force, driven<br />

by businesses such as Penman Manufacturing<br />

Company, which by 1880 operated three knitting<br />

mills in Paris.<br />

The Paris Wincey Mills Co. is the historic textile<br />

mill located in the downtown area, dating back to<br />

1889. (Wincey is not a surname, but a term used<br />

to describe a type of cloth.) The mill’s century-old<br />

hardwood floors have been rejuvenated, and the<br />

multi-paned windows uncovered and restored<br />

to allow access to natural light. The revitalized<br />

main floor is a well-designed space, reflective of<br />

Paris, Ontario<br />

Paris, Ontario has a historic tradition of textile<br />

production. Today, the Wincey Mills Co. building has<br />

been restored to house retail and food businesses open<br />

to the public, as well as upper-floors office space.<br />

its heritage, and showcases quality retailers in<br />

an indoor market hall setting.<br />

Blue Dog Coffee Roasters and<br />

Café and Tipperary Bog Fine<br />

Cheese and Gourmet Shop are<br />

open from Monday to Saturday.<br />

From Thursday to Saturday, the<br />

market features vendors like<br />

butcher Anthony Ferras’ Link<br />

Street Sausage House, Jiggs-n-<br />

Reels Seafood Shop, Florcita’s<br />

Classic Latin Foods, Sugar and<br />

Spice Bakery, Gourmet Popcorn<br />

and The Grilled Cheese Effect. A<br />

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<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

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28 | <strong>February</strong>/<strong>March</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

the express purpose of giving the venue<br />

a culinary focus. There is also an outdoor<br />

seasonal market and plans for future<br />

development of the lower floor. Office spaces<br />

on the second and third floors offer generous<br />

views of Paris and the Grand River.<br />

If you’re looking for a great place to stay<br />

in downtown Paris, the boutique literarythemed<br />

Arlington Hotel is a hip option.<br />

Originally known the Bradford House<br />

Hotel, the hotel has enjoyed several other<br />

incarnations. The hotel re-opened its doors<br />

last <strong>March</strong> following extensive renovation<br />

and redecoration of the circa-1850 historic<br />

building. Owned by The Other Bird group<br />

(who are behind Hamilton’s Rapscallion<br />

Rogue Eatery, London’s Hunter & Co.<br />

and four other culinary hot spots), the<br />

Arlington has 24 guest rooms inspired<br />

by authors and creative minds. From the<br />

playful Dr. Seuss room to the luxurious<br />

Oscar Wilde executive suite, each features<br />

unique decor and touches. The hotel’s<br />

blackboard-menu-based restaurant is<br />

named edit and was created by Executive<br />

Chef Matt Kershaw and Chef Paddy<br />

Townsend. The menu offers a rotating<br />

assortment of flavour-focused fare with<br />

playfully-named dishes like Smoky the Pear<br />

Salad, Darkwing Duck and Thanks Foie the<br />

Memories. There is Pork and Parsnip on<br />

the dinner menu with Pork Chop, Sausage,<br />

Pork Belly, Parsnip Purée, Brussels Sprouts<br />

in Chilli Maple Gastrique with Maple<br />

Demi-Glace. The hotel features a cozy bar<br />

and an intimate vibe. 1851 Public House,<br />

in the hotel’s cellar, is used mainly for<br />

private events. The space is defined by its<br />

stone walls, warm wood accents and retro<br />

furnishings.<br />

The Grand River Trails, transformed from former railway<br />

lines and just minutes away from the Arlington Hotel, are<br />

easily accessible and perfect for cycling, hiking and crosscountry<br />

skiing.<br />

Matt Cummings, owner of Paris’s Cobblestone Public<br />

House Restaurant and Midtown Kitchen and Coffee (billed<br />

as an artisanal New York deli-inspired coffee house), along<br />

with chef/owner William Thompson of Food Network’s Top<br />

Chef Canada and a Niagara Culinary Institute alumnus,<br />

have created a mixture of comfort, fun and affordable fare<br />

at Stillwaters Plate & Pour on the main street The restaurant<br />

features two outdoor patios including an 80-seat rooftop<br />

Juniper Dining Co. (above) is one of the many dining options available in<br />

Paris. Owners Brandon and Andrea Legacey are inspired by French bistros,<br />

and combine quality local and seasonal ingredients in their cuisine.

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Discover Heather's<br />

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The Arlington Hotel opened last year after extensive<br />

renovations. Besides 24 guest rooms, the Hotel offers<br />

dining experiences from celebrated Chef Matt Kershaw.<br />

patio with panoramic views of the Grand<br />

River. Cummings and Thompson are set to<br />

open Trattoria at Midtown this winter, a<br />

new concept that will feature casual Italian<br />

riverside dining in a “cellar-like” atmosphere.<br />

The restaurant will include a temperaturecontrolled<br />

glass wine cellar.<br />

Since 1927 Paris Bakery 31 downtown Nottinghill Gate, on Grand Suite 203,<br />

River Street North has been Oakville providing ON TICO<strong>#5</strong>0013851 the<br />

community and visitors with the finest baked<br />

goods. Owners Julia Pickard and Shannon<br />

Nunes feature baguettes and other artisanal<br />

breads. Homemade donuts, cupcakes, sausage<br />

rolls, meat pies bars and other specialties fill<br />

the counters of the tiny bakery.<br />

Off the beaten path on the less touristy<br />

side of the Grand River is Juniper Dining Co.,<br />

which is worth the drive to Paris on its own.<br />

Juniper, owned by Chef Andrea Legacey and<br />

her husband Brandon, is the crème de la crème<br />

of the local culinary scene, inspired by French<br />

bistros and Lyonnais bouchons. (Bouchons are<br />

typically family-owned bistros that serve local<br />

specialties, with an emphasis on dishes that<br />

are heavily centred on meat and often feature<br />

heavy, rich and decadent cuisine.) Chef’s dinner<br />

menu is divided into sections — starters, small<br />

plates, sharing, and mains — featuring classic<br />

items like charcuterie, steak tartare, bone<br />

marrow, duck poutine, salt cod croquettes with<br />

malt vinegar aioli, olive oil poached halibut,<br />

celery root ravioli, and mushroom ragout.<br />

On the Lunch/Brunch menu there is a veal<br />

cheek Reuben, a 14-day house brined veal<br />

cheek pastrami, house-made sauerkraut, and<br />

Le Douanier cheese (Quebec cheese inspired<br />

by the classic French Morbier). There is a<br />

Lyonnaise salad with poached egg, pork belly<br />

Silversea Cruises<br />

Small luxury ships, butler service,<br />

open bar, gourmet dining, gratuities<br />

and free economy airfare included.<br />

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TICO<strong>#5</strong>0013851<br />

and duck fat dressing. At Juniper they combine<br />

quality local and seasonal ingredients with<br />

original cocktails, local beers and meticulously<br />

curated wines.<br />

Another iconic spot is the bright blue Cedar<br />

House Grill and Martini Bar (formerly an old<br />

mill that once operated between the Nith and<br />

Grand Rivers) that the Legaceys reopened<br />

earlier this year.<br />

If you’re looking for some real southern<br />

barbeque there is an amazing rack of smoked<br />

Alabama style ribs at Camp 31 out on Paris<br />

Road.<br />

If you’re considering a road trip to Paris,<br />

keep in mind it’s a four-season destination.<br />

It’s a short drive from Stratford, Hamilton,<br />

Cambridge and the <strong>Waterloo</strong>/<strong>Wellington</strong><br />

County region, and easily accessible from<br />

London, Guelph, and the GTA.<br />

<strong>Eatdrink</strong> Food Editor BRYAN LAVERY brings years of<br />

professional experience in the hospitality industry, as a<br />

co-founder of the Lavery Culinary Group, food writer, chef,<br />

event planner, former restaurateur and mentor.

30 | <strong>February</strong>/<strong>March</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

The BUZZ<br />

Culinary Community Notes<br />

New and Notable<br />


Arthur<br />

Word comes from CEO Keith Harris that KiKi Maple<br />

Sweet Water is now available from coast to coast<br />

across Canada. The small Arthur-based company<br />

has grown steadily over the past several years.<br />

Looking back on the past year, Harris says that<br />

KiKi products have been showcased nationally at<br />

grocery and food events but also in France, the<br />

United Arab Emirates and India, to name a few.<br />

He stresses that the maple water, in addition to<br />

being delicious, is an environmentally conscious<br />

“green product” and proudly Canadian. “All of<br />

our ingredients are natural,” Harris says. “And we<br />

have no synthetic additions to our beverages. All<br />

ingredients simply are very easy to say.” That’s a<br />

good way to start off this Buzz — and the new year,<br />

one which has been touted as a year of healthier<br />

eating.<br />

Baden<br />

The Nook Coffeehouse and Marketplace on<br />

Snyder’s Road in Baden opened in December. The<br />

venue, as well as serving soups, sandwiches and<br />

pastries also caters corporate lunches and foods<br />

for special events. There are also products for sale<br />

made by local artisans.<br />

Cambridge<br />

I guess you could say it is 16,000 square feet of<br />

“healthy.” Goodness Me! Natural Food Market<br />

opened on Hespeler Road at Sheldon Drive at the<br />

end of November. There are several other locations<br />

in the city, a testament to the movement to clean<br />

and healthy eating. The store features a bounty of<br />

organic produce and some local produce as well. It<br />

touts itself as offering small batch-produced grassfed<br />

beef and naturally raised chicken and pork. It’s<br />

also a good spot for consumers looking for various<br />

niche diet ingredients from vegan and plant-based<br />

to keto and gluten-free.<br />

Congratulations to Langdon Hall Country<br />

House Hotel and Spa and executive chef Jason<br />

Bangerter: 2018 was quite the year for the luxe but<br />

casual Relais et Chateaux country house tucked<br />

in amongst the woods in Cambridge. Bangerter<br />

claimed victory over iconic celebrity chef Lynn<br />

Crawford in “Battle Venison” on the Food Network<br />

television show Iron Chef this past fall. I guess I<br />

should say Bangerter “reigned supreme,” to use the<br />

quirky Chairman’s parlance.<br />

Langdon Hall was also informed that it would<br />

be included on La Liste <strong>2019</strong> as one of the best<br />

restaurants in the world. Selection to the list is<br />

based on the aggregation of dozens and dozens of<br />

guidebooks and millions of online reviews which<br />

are drawn upon by food critics and hospitality<br />

experts for evaluation. We can also add that<br />

Langdon was included in the top 50 Best Hotels in<br />

Canada by Hotel Addict. Experienced editors and<br />

travel writers associated with the online magazine<br />

visited and selected their favourite hotels across<br />

the country, and, based on service, amenities and<br />

design, created a shortlist of 50 top properties.<br />

With the departure of Brad Lomanto to Bloom<br />

Restaurant at Conestoga College this past fall, the<br />

Cambridge Mill welcomed Windsor, Ontario native<br />

Joel LaBute as Executive Chef. LaBute has cooked at<br />

Langdon Hall and alongside Stephen Treadwell and<br />

Keith Froggett. That is certainly a strong culinary<br />

provenance, and one he will use to carry on the<br />

culinary tradition at the Mill: fresh, local ingredients<br />

and ethical sourcing that has been in place since<br />

the Mill opened. LaBute will certainly add to that<br />

dedication — he and his wife run their own farm, so<br />

he undoubtedly knows food from farm to table. “I<br />

knew I wanted to be doing something with my hands<br />

where I could be creative, where I could feel proud at<br />

the end of the day,” LaBute explains in a posting on<br />

the Pearle Hospitality website.<br />

Saffron Indian Restaurant & Bar is an authentic<br />

Indian restaurant. Chef Kul brings the fine<br />

traditional cuisines of India to Cambridge.<br />

Saffron’s outgrowth, Dakshin, will be the area’s<br />

first dedicated South Indian restaurant and is

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

anticipated to open soon just across the road.<br />

605 Hespeler Rd, Cambridge, 519-267-8188,<br />

saffroncambridge.ca<br />

Elora<br />

Part of Pearle Hospitality, the Elora Mill Hotel<br />

and Spa, a classic and historic site, has been<br />

transformed and re-opened this past summer.<br />

Built by Scottish craftsmen between 1851 and<br />

1859, the original mill burnt to the ground in 1859,<br />

but changed hands and was promptly re-built.<br />

It opened as an inn in 1975, and was purchased<br />

by Pearle in 2010. The kitchen, led by Chef John<br />

Bakker, changes its menu with the seasons and for<br />

inspiration and ingredients draws on the bounty of<br />

local agriculture and artisanal production.<br />

Guelph<br />

Sugo on Surrey has opened in downtown Guelph.<br />

According to owner and operator Alex Tami, it’s a<br />

full-service, Italian-inspired and upscale-casual<br />

venue in a 150-year-old heritage home on Surrey<br />

Street East. Executive chef Brian Baxendale is in<br />

charge of the kitchen and the menu consists of<br />

shareable plates, a half-dozen or so hearty main<br />

courses, salads, pizzas and pasta dishes. “We strive<br />

to get the freshest local ingredients to prepare all<br />

of our dishes as well as work with local businesses<br />

to support economic growth within Guelph,”<br />

Tami says. Alex and Maria Tami’s Sugo on Surrey<br />

is a casual-fine dining restaurant with an Italian<br />

influence in a 150-year-old heritage home. 117 Surrey<br />

Street East, Guelph, sugoguelph.com<br />

A combined Abe Erb Brewing and Settlement Coffee<br />

Roaster will be expanding to Guelph this fall and<br />

will be known as Abe Erb at the Junction. It will<br />

occupy a former railroad building on Edinburgh<br />

Road in the Guelph Junction neighbourhood.<br />

Executive chef Joey Bornino’s Elizabeth Street Eatery<br />

is known for its farm-to-table approach. Chef works<br />

<strong>February</strong>/<strong>March</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 31<br />

with small producers, with the ingredients inspiring<br />

the menu which changes weekly. 447 Elizabeth<br />

Street, 519- 265-0950, elizabethstreeteatery.com<br />

Decadently Yours, home of award-winning cakes<br />

and cupcakes, is celebrating its 5th anniversary.<br />

Congratulations to sisters Jenn Bonner and<br />

Tara Ridell. 119 Surrey St East, 519-262-5314,<br />

decadentlyyours.ca<br />

Artisanale Café is located in a heritage stone<br />

house where everything is made fresh, prepared<br />

Homestyle Cooking & Baking<br />

Family Owned & Operated Mennonite Restaurant & Bakery<br />

Homemade cooking & baking made fresh daily from<br />

scratch using the best ingredients!<br />

• 20+ Pies! • Muffins • Squares • Cookies • Sweet Buns • Donuts<br />

• Cheesecakes • Tarts • Cakes & Cupcakes • Bread & Dinner Rolls<br />

www.annamaes.ca<br />

519-595-4407<br />

Monday–Saturday<br />

7am–8pm<br />

Cash or Debit Accepted<br />

4060 Line 72, Millbank ON<br />

Saturday Brunch<br />

11am–3pm<br />

– Build Your Own Caesars<br />

& Brunch Mimosas!<br />

Dinner<br />

Tuesday–Saturday<br />

Catering<br />

Melting Pot Wedesdays!<br />

Chef’s Feature cheese<br />

fondues with a<br />

variety of dippers<br />

Toonie<br />

Tuesdays!<br />

Freshly shucked<br />


226.476.4418<br />

295 Lancaster St. W.<br />

Kitchener<br />


32 | <strong>February</strong>/<strong>March</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

in a French country style, using traditional and<br />

artisanal techniques. If you’ve never been before,<br />

the $35 Prix-Fixe menu on Wednesday and Thursday<br />

evenings is the perfect introduction. Lunch or<br />

dinner (Wednesday–Saturday), and Sunday brunch.<br />

214 Woolwich Street, 519-821-3359, artisanale.ca<br />

Park Grocery is Guelph’s latest restaurant by the<br />

Neighbourhood Group consisting of Borealis in<br />

Kitchener and Guelph and The Wooly Pub and<br />

Miijidaa Café & Bistro. The recently opened hot<br />

spot which is part bar, deli and grocery shop<br />

offers roasted piri piri chicken, sandwiches,<br />

salads and soups all made from scratch. The bar<br />

offers a selection of local beers and wine and is<br />

home to a barista-driven cafe featuring organic<br />

fair-trade coffee and tea alongside artisan sodas<br />

and milkshakes. With an eye to a sustainable<br />

future, Park Grocery supports a living wage and<br />

donates 5% of sales from the Neighbourhood<br />

Club members’ sales to local community and<br />

environmental initiatives. 294 Woolwich Street,<br />

519-265-9002, parkgrocery.ca<br />

The recently opened Fusion Authentic Indian<br />

Cuisine is co-owned by Jobi Joseph and Joseph<br />

Stephen. Chefs create “savoury dishes that are<br />

inspired and modern, yet comforting and familiar,”<br />

says the website. “Enjoy traditional dishes from<br />

North India or treat your appetite to delicacies<br />

from the backwaters of Kerala.” 96 Gordon Street,<br />

Guelph, 519-265-0999, fusionindian.com<br />

Founder of Taste Detours, Lynn Broughton is a<br />

certified Food Tour Professional. Not only do you<br />

have a guide who is charming, knowledgeable and<br />

well-spoken, but one who has the expertise and the<br />

savvy to provide a first-rate experience. Broughton<br />

recently introduced the Little Bites Food Tour. Join<br />

Taste Detours on this shorter appetizer tour. You’ll<br />

visit four local food purveyors to feast on their<br />

tastiest morsels. tastedetours.ca<br />

Crafty Ramen owners Jared and Miki Farrell make<br />

their own noodles in-house daily from Canadian<br />

wheat with a ramen noodle machine imported<br />

from Japan. The kitchen is dedicated to superb<br />

ingredients like earthy, pork-duck broth made<br />

with locally sourced meat and bones supplied by<br />

Trotters Butcher Shop. Jared and Miki are bringing<br />

their delicious ramen to Kitchener at King near<br />

Water Street soon. 17 Macdonell St, Guelph, 519<br />

824-8330, craftyramen.com<br />

Bryan Steele and his Guelph-based co-owner<br />

partners Conrad Aikens, Justin Corstorphine and<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Derek Boudreau, all of whom have experience<br />

in food, added another dimension to Guelph’s<br />

exploding culinary scene when they opened the<br />

88-seat La Reina last June. La Reina is an authentic<br />

Mexican restaurant experience start to finish. On<br />

top of tacos, which rival some of the best we’ve<br />

ever tasted, they offer 60+ different tequilas. Head<br />

chef Jose Matamoros brought with him chefs of<br />

Mexican background representing different regions<br />

of the country. You can “Tip the Kitchen” with Sol<br />

or Modelo beer. 10 Wyndham Street North, Guelph,<br />

519-265-8226, lareina519.com<br />

Kitchener<br />

Still yet unannounced formally, there’s a new<br />

chef and other well-known personalities at the<br />

popular Grand Trunk Saloon (GTS) in downtown<br />

Kitchener. And look for other new developments<br />

at the restaurant, according to ownership. Darryl<br />

Haus, a principal at GTS, says (while keeping his<br />

cards close to his vest), “Stay tuned in the early<br />

new year!” We will.<br />

Along Charles Street near Queen in downtown<br />

Kitchener, a confusing situation has cropped up<br />

regarding a “Royal” Shawarma that was in the<br />

process of getting ready to open. The sign now says<br />

“Loyal” Shawarma. Was the original name too close<br />

to that of <strong>Waterloo</strong>’s small chain Shawarma Royale<br />

on King Street near University Avenue, or some<br />

other legal or title snafu?<br />

Ambrosia Pastry Co., a <strong>Waterloo</strong> favourite, has<br />

re-branded as Ambrosia Corner Bakery and<br />

moved to the Central Frederick neighbourhood<br />

of Kitchener. Owner Aura Hertzog took over the<br />

space — once known by locals as Fischer’s Variety<br />

— that was previously occupied by Public Market.<br />

The new Ambrosia sells pastries and baked goods<br />

that are made in-house and many well-known local<br />

products, such as tortilla chips from Taco Farm and<br />

breads from Golden Hearth Bakery.<br />

Sadly, the so-called “Duke Food Block” in<br />

downtown Kitchener has been diminished with<br />

the closing of Bread Heads Wood-fired Pizza.<br />

Owner David O’Leary has chosen not to re-new<br />

his lease after several years of helping lead the<br />

pack in wood-fired pizza in <strong>Waterloo</strong> Region. LRT<br />

construction has had an impact on many of the<br />

businesses in the core, and it changed customer<br />

traffic flow and habits of patrons. O’Leary had<br />

difficulty taking deliveries due to ION transit tracks<br />

that run in front of the block. That said, look for<br />

a strong Bread Heads presence to continue in<br />

<strong>Waterloo</strong> Region and surrounding areas. O’Leary

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

plans to boost his mobile wood-fired pizza business<br />

by adding another unit in order to cover more of the<br />

many festivals and events he participates in across<br />

southwestern Ontario.<br />

The owners of a popular food truck, Breakfast,<br />

Blues and BBQs, have opened a small restaurant<br />

at 105 Victoria Street South between Michael and<br />

Joseph Streets. It’s the former location of the longstanding<br />

Sing Lee Chinese Restaurant, which had<br />

struggled under new owners of late. The BBQ folks,<br />

however, have gotten off to a fast start, and they<br />

will soon have lots of new residents living right<br />

across the street when a multi-storey condominium<br />

is completed. The restaurant serves the expected<br />

dishes of sandwiches, chili and southern barbecue<br />

fare, burgers, fish and chips and poutines, as well as<br />

all-day breakfast. You may also find banana bread<br />

French toast and claims for “all things chorizo!”<br />

Just a heads-up: during the week, it opens at 11<br />

a.m., so the all-day breakfast is a good strategy on<br />

the restaurant’s part.<br />

<strong>February</strong>/<strong>March</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 33<br />

Platter (for two, comprised of short ribs, musubi<br />

and tartare), fresh fruit and root chips. 87 Ontario<br />

Street South, grandsurflounge.com<br />

Last year The Ignite Restaurant Group transformed<br />

the former Berlin into The Rich Uncle Tavern. When<br />

the building was remodelled as The Berlin, Ryan<br />

Lloyd-Craig spent eight months refurbishing and<br />

reclaiming the Renaissance Revival style of the<br />

building to create an 85-seat, street-level dining<br />

room with a long bar. The elevated open-kitchen is<br />

one of the focal points of the space. Chef Benjamin<br />

Award-Winning Cakes & Cupcakes<br />

Baked Daily from Scratch<br />

Custom Order for Special Events & Weddings<br />

— Vegan & Gluten-Free Options Available<br />

A Perfect Centrepiece for Any Event<br />

Top Choice Winners since 2016!<br />

A note posted on their door says that Taste at the<br />

Tannery (121 Charles Street West, Kitchener) “will<br />

be ceasing its daily operations indefinitely while we<br />

redesign and rebrand.” Interpret that any way you<br />

like.<br />

A recent notice in the newspaper indicates that<br />

bankruptcy proceeding are in progress regarding<br />

Fireside Deli and Family Restaurant on Ottawa<br />

Street South near Strasburg Road. There’s likely<br />

management and ownership changes coming.<br />

Conestoga College culinary graduate Alex<br />

Krawczyk runs the kitchen at downtown Kitchener’s<br />

recently opened and popular 30-seat The Grand<br />

Surf Lounge. The Lounge features exotic cocktails<br />

and a Polynesian-inspired Tiki bar themed menu,<br />

including poké, Flaming Crab Rangoon, the Pupu<br />

119 Surrey Street, Guelph<br />

519-265-5314<br />

decadentlyyours.ca<br />

Introducing Simple Monthly Meat Delivery.<br />

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34 | <strong>February</strong>/<strong>March</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

Lillico has an ethical and sustainable culinary<br />

philosophy, caring about the provenance of food and<br />

the way it is grown or raised. The restaurant has just<br />

launched a series of prohibition-themed dinners<br />

featuring beer pairings with guest brewers. 45 King<br />

Street West, 519-208-8555, richuncletavern.ca<br />

Located in the historical Tannery building<br />

Downtown Kitchener, Taste at the Tannery is closed<br />

for rebranding and remodelling. 121 Charles St W,<br />

Kitchener, tastetannery.ca<br />

Located below The Walper Hotel, The TWH Social<br />

has been a staple in the downtown Kitchener<br />

culinary scene since January 2015. Over the fall,<br />

talented co-chefs Grant Holdbrook and Carlo<br />

Atienza have crafted exciting new brunch, lunch,<br />

and dinner menus. The Lokal is the striking piano<br />

bar and lounge on the second floor. Breakfast is<br />

served in the Barristers Lounge. 20 Queen Street<br />

South, Kitchener, walper.com<br />

Best-selling cookbook author Donna-Marie Pye<br />

and fellow culinary enthusiast Maria Burjoski<br />

opened a stylish new iteration of Relish Cooking<br />

Studio and Kitchen Essentials a few months<br />

ago. 70 Victoria Street North, 519-954-8722,<br />

relishcookingstudio.com<br />

La Cucina features more than just mouth-watering<br />

pizzas from the custom-built Malagutti pizza oven.<br />

Other items include antipasti, homemade pastas,<br />

paninis and house specialties like Veal Parmigiana<br />

and Porchetta E Rapini. 320 King Street West, 519-<br />

954-5300, lacucinakitchener.com<br />

Gilt is a contemporary shared plate restaurant in<br />

a re-purposed space in the heart of the technology<br />

triangle. The bar, lounge and 65-seat restaurant<br />

is urbane, open, airy and sophisticated with lofty<br />

ceilings and a stylish and comfortable industrial<br />

ambiance. Chef de cuisine Alex Janke has been at<br />

Gilt since the beginning and has innate instincts<br />

when it comes to flavours, marrying global<br />

ingredients and enriching dishes by taking them<br />

to new dimensions. Janke’s repertoire includes<br />

influences from Thai, Indian, French and Mexican<br />

inspired cuisine. 305 King Street West, 519-954-<br />

6100, giltrestaurant.ca<br />

Jill and Mica Sadler recently celebrated Swine<br />

and Vine’s first anniversary. This is the perfect<br />

spot to share well-crafted cocktails, good wine<br />

and local beers, and build-your-own charcuterie<br />

boards. Other inspired fare like Bone Marrow, Beef<br />

Carpaccio, Octopus Salad and Jackfruit Spring Rolls<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

are on offer. We love the tableside carving of the<br />

three-year-old dry-cured Jamón Ibérico served<br />

with warm olives. The pièce de résistance is a<br />

dessert board called Cookies n’ Milk for Grownups,<br />

featuring Triple Nut Biscotti with Frangelico and<br />

Chambord, Spiced Hot Chocolate Cookies with<br />

Rum Chata and Peppermint Schnapps and Milk<br />

Chocolate Orange Truffles with Grand Marnier and<br />

Kahlua. The Sadler’s also offer a fabulous Saturday<br />

brunch. Service is attentive and knowledgeable.<br />

295 Lancaster Street West, 226-476-4418,<br />

swineandvine.ca<br />

Ryan Murphy and Carly Blasutt’s Public Kitchen<br />

& Bar is a stylish independently-owned restaurant<br />

in one of Kitchener’s oldest neighborhoods. They<br />

take pride in creating delicious small, shareable<br />

plates inspired by the Iberian Peninsula. Cheese is<br />

a specialty; try the tasting featuring Iborez (Spain),<br />

Chateau de Bourgogne (France) and Bénédictin Blue<br />

(Quebec). They also offer well-crafted cocktails,<br />

new and old world wines and an all-Ontario craft<br />

beer list at reasonable prices. Menu changes<br />

sometimes on a daily basis. 300 Victoria Street N.,<br />

519-954-8111, kwpublic.com<br />

Crumb Bakehouse is operated by Martha Borys,<br />

a master baker in her own right when it comes to<br />

breads, cakes and pastries. Borys is a graduate<br />

of George Brown College and the University of<br />

<strong>Waterloo</strong>, and has played a key role at prestigious<br />

businesses in the hospitality industry such<br />

as the Berlin and Langdon Hall. Borys has<br />

gained a solid reputation in KW since joining the<br />

Lancaster Smokehouse team for her unbelievably<br />

delicious homemade pies and baked good. Crumb<br />

Bakehouse currently resides within The Lancaster<br />

Smokehouse, but there are plans to expand into its<br />

own retail and kitchen space. 574 Lancaster Street<br />

W., 519-743-4331, lancsmokehouse.com/crumbbakehouse<br />

Chris & Cathy Corrigan’s Lancaster Smokehouse<br />

is a full-service casual restaurant inspired by the<br />

U.S. south and low country southern barbecue,<br />

made from scratch in-house with the best local<br />

ingredients, and using traditional southern<br />

methods. Tim Borys’ “inventive authenticityladen”<br />

approach incorporates all things local.<br />

He works with area farmers and food purveyors<br />

to keep “The Lanc” fresh and local. Think lipsmacking<br />

pulled pork, chicken, BBQ ribs, shrimp<br />

and grits, brisket, pig’s tails, gumbo and Cajun<br />

jambalaya. 574 Lancaster Street West, 519-743-4331,<br />


D in<br />

anada<br />

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>Waterloo</strong><br />

Major renovations and re-conceptualization<br />

are underway at 12-year-old Wildcraft, one of<br />

the flagship restaurants of the Charcoal Group.<br />

You’ll find a bright new look at the restaurant and<br />

bar in early <strong>2019</strong>. According to Jody Palubiski,<br />

Charcoal Group of Restaurants managing partner,<br />

both exterior and interior renovations will be<br />

undertaken. With menus and even staff uniforms to<br />

be revamped, it is a major changeover that includes<br />

a new cocktail, beer and wine program. “For more<br />

than a decade, Wildcraft has been fortunate to<br />

serve the community of <strong>Waterloo</strong>,” says Palubiski.<br />

“We’re so excited for our guests to experience this<br />

new chapter with us. The new year is a time for<br />

renewal and positivity which is exactly what we’re<br />

bringing to Wildcraft with the redevelopment of the<br />

restaurant.” wildcraft.ca<br />

We reported in our last issue that change was afoot<br />

with the growing Fat Sparrow Group: what has<br />

materialized is significant. The Group — comprised<br />

of Uptown 21, Taco Farm, The Harmony Lunch<br />

and Marbles — has acquired the holdings of the<br />

long-time Stone Crock Inc. in St. Jacobs, founded<br />

by entrepreneur Milo Shantz and his wife Laura<br />

in 1975. That means Nick and Nat Benninger and<br />

the Fat Sparrow Group will be gently refurbishing<br />

and adding their own distinctive touch to Jacob’s<br />

Grill, Stone Crock Meats and Cheese, Stone Crock<br />

Bakery, Stone Crock Restaurant, St. Jacobs<br />

Catering, Salad Division and Meeting and Banquet<br />

Rooms. “We have enjoyed great success in Uptown<br />

<strong>Waterloo</strong> with our current portfolio of restaurants,”<br />

says Chef Nick Benninger. “We’re really excited to<br />

be part of St. Jacobs now as it continues to grow and<br />

prosper.” Sandra Shantz, who has been overseeing<br />

the business since the 1990s, says she will be<br />

staying on with the Fat Sparrow Group. 1396 King St<br />

N, St. Jacobs, 519-664-2286, stonecrock.ca<br />

<strong>February</strong>/<strong>March</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 35<br />

T&T Supermarket, a B.C.-based Asian grocery<br />

chain that is 25 years old and now comes under the<br />

Loblaw purview, opened to pandemonium in early<br />

December. Located in Westmount Mall, the massive<br />

superstore is over 30,000 sq.-ft. (interestingly<br />

making it the smallest of the T&T brand) and has<br />

an immense selection of food products, a bakery,<br />

hot tables, and fish in tanks (sure to raise the ire of<br />

some), a feature of which is cook-while-you-wait.<br />

OneZo Tapioca has opened at 140 University Avenue<br />

near Lester Street in the University of <strong>Waterloo</strong><br />

Award Winning<br />

Artisan Cheese<br />

Come Experience Our World!<br />

Visit our cheese shop and sample our<br />

unique handmade cheeses.<br />

See and learn about how cheese is made.<br />

Enjoy the scenery on our 3-generation family farm.<br />

Group tours are available by reservation.<br />

MON-SAT 9-5<br />

445172 Gunn's Hill Rd, Woodstock, ON<br />

519-424-4024<br />

www.gunnshillcheese.ca<br />

ars!<br />

Windjammer<br />

The<br />

DINE<br />

STAY<br />

Recommended in Where To Eat In Canada for 10 years<br />

Modern Farmhouse Cuisine Wednesday–Sunday<br />

INN<br />

Join us for Dinner & Weekend Brunch<br />

Comfortable Accommodations Year Round<br />

324 Smith St, Port Stanley • 519-782-4173 • www.thewindjammerinn.com

36 | <strong>February</strong>/<strong>March</strong> <strong>2019</strong> eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

area. It seems a new restaurant opens in the district<br />

every few weeks. Look for a new Chinese place to<br />

open in the former Chill and Grill location in the<br />

University Plaza that runs along Phillip Street.<br />

We reported earlier that Chic Pea Middle Eastern<br />

Kitchen was set to open on University Avenue<br />

near Weber Street, <strong>Waterloo</strong>, and across from<br />

the new Conestoga College campus, and so it has,<br />

in the former Pizza Hut building. Owner Nedal<br />

Alhares, one of the original founders and owners of<br />

Arabesque Family Restaurant on Victoria Street in<br />

Kitchener, has opened the 110-seat restaurant and<br />

open-kitchen concept with the intention of serving<br />

delicious food that’s healthy. He’s brought in unique<br />

charcoal rotisserie equipment for roasting chicken<br />

and serves items such as Turkish pizza, shawarma,<br />

kabobs, sandwiches, salads and a variety of Middle<br />

Eastern sweets. The restaurant is 100 percent halal<br />

and has many vegetarian options.<br />

The Loloan Lobby Bar menus are upscale, sensory<br />

experiences, meticulously conceptualized with<br />

sumptuously textured offerings that are tangy,<br />

spicy, aromatic and herbal. Loloan’s partners<br />

are seasoned restaurateurs and include General<br />

Manager Paul Boehmer of Bhima’s Warung, Renee<br />

Lees and Josh Koehler, of the Starlight Club and<br />

Jane Bond. Bhima’s manager Leanne Amort is a<br />

secondary partner. There are timeless cocktails<br />

and gastronomic forays through the regional and<br />

cross-cultural cuisines of Southeast Asia, with<br />

homage being paid to Indonesia, India, Vietnam,<br />

Singapore and Thailand. The cuisine packs heat and<br />

complex flavours in equal parts. 14 Princess Street<br />

West, 519-883-1010, loloanlobbybar<br />

White Rabbit is an intimate cocktail bar that<br />

can boast having one of the largest whisky lists,<br />

and stocking over 400 brands, many of them<br />

difficult to find. They make stellar handcrafted<br />

cocktails and have whisky and bourbon flight<br />

tasting paddles. 47 King St North, 519- 746-7540,<br />

whiterabbitwaterlloo.com<br />

Proof Kitchen & Lounge, located in the Delta Hotel in<br />

UpTown <strong>Waterloo</strong> on the site of the historic Seagram<br />

Barrel Yards, offers a first class, contemporary,<br />

chef-driven dining experience presented in a stylish<br />

dining room. Chef Jeritt Raney’s menus feature local<br />

ingredients with an emphasis on a fusion of global<br />

flavours. All seafood has the assurance of the Ocean<br />

Wise symbol. Menus are complemented by expertly<br />

crafted cocktails, a well-chosen wine list, and a<br />

diverse selection of local craft beers. 110 Erb Street<br />

West, <strong>Waterloo</strong>, 519 208 3333, proofwaterloo.com<br />

Red House in UpTown <strong>Waterloo</strong> has been converted<br />

into an intimate, relaxed bistro restaurant that<br />

has garnered great word of mouth from industry<br />

professionals. Chef/owner Dan Mc Cowan’s menus<br />

feature fresh food inspired by quality ingredients.<br />

The menu changes daily to incorporate new and<br />

seasonal ingredients and flavours. Entrées include<br />

beef, duck, curries, pastas and vegetarian dishes.<br />

Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday to Friday, and<br />

brunch and dinner Saturday. 30 William St W,<br />

<strong>Waterloo</strong>, redhouseuptown.ca<br />

<strong>Waterloo</strong> Brewing is celebrating a 35th anniversary.<br />

When the first small batch was brewed in 1984<br />

the simple goal was to make the kind of beer the<br />

owners would be proud to serve their friends, the<br />

kind of beer they’d choose for themselves. Back<br />

then, they were the only brew masters in Ontario to<br />

think that way. Turns out they were onto something.<br />

waterloobrewing.com<br />

Around the Region<br />

Who doesn’t like to eat and drink? The folks<br />

from EatDrink Magazine will be at the <strong>2019</strong> KW<br />

Wine & Food Show on April 5 and 6. This event<br />

allows visitors to indulge in craft beers, cocktails,<br />

wines and food from Ontario breweries, cideries,<br />

distilleries and local restaurants. Enjoy live<br />

cooking demonstrations, wine pairings and musical<br />

entertainment. Admission at the door will be $20<br />

(tax included) for Friday and Saturday evening<br />

sessions. The Saturday afternoon session will be<br />

$15 (tax included). Walk-up tickets will be sold<br />

based on capacity with preference given to advance<br />

ticket holders. kwwineandfoodshow.com<br />

The Ignite Restaurant Group (owners of The Rich<br />

Uncle Tavern, and Graffiti Market, Red Circle Coffee<br />

and Red Circle Brewing) have purchased the former<br />

Black Forest Inn in Conestogo. The Sawmill Road<br />

property is one of the oldest venues in the region.<br />

The group plans to launch Crowsfoot Ciderhouse<br />

and will offer its own brand of cider, brewed inhouse,<br />

using apples from Martin’s Family Fruit Farm<br />

on Lobsinger Line. The menu will be modelled on the<br />

traditional European smokehouse with a contemporary<br />

twist, combining German food culture and<br />

southern smoke barbecue. The complex is expected<br />

to feature a country market as well as serving as the<br />

new headquarters for Ignite. crowsfootcider.ca<br />

At The Belmont Bistro (formerly Village Creperie)<br />

Chef Brandon Gries, a Stratford Chef School<br />

alumnus, creates flavourful dishes from scratch,<br />

taking no short-cuts and changing the menu<br />

seasonally. 703 Belmont Ave W, 519-576- 5796

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>February</strong>/<strong>March</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 37<br />

Celebrate the Culture of Cheese<br />

www.OxfordCountyCheeseTrail.ca<br />

1-866-801-7368 x3355<br />

tourism@oxfordcounty.ca<br />


eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Abe Erb Brewing and Settlement Coffee Roaster<br />

will soon be opening the doors to their new location<br />

in Ayr at 143 Northumberland. The brewery and<br />

brew pub will be known as Abe Erb at the Mill, a<br />

reference to the property’s storied history as a feed<br />

mill. There are also plans to grow into an event<br />

space with a 700-square-foot covered patio porch.<br />

We continue to hear raves about the traditional<br />

Danish comfort food (smørrebrød/open-face<br />

sandwiches) at The Danish Place at Sunset Villa,<br />

located in Puslinch, which reopens at the beginning<br />

of <strong>March</strong>, <strong>2019</strong>. Join them on Sundays for the 24ft<br />

Smørgåsbrod! Open Thursday to Sunday. 7150<br />

Concession 1, Puslinch, 519-824-0539<br />

Eat Up Your <strong>February</strong> — From <strong>February</strong> 1–17,<br />

discover some of the best winter eats and local food<br />

options in Guelph and <strong>Wellington</strong> County with Eat<br />

up your <strong>February</strong>! www.tastereal.ca<br />

<strong>Wellington</strong> Brewery presents Queen of Craft Series<br />

Taking place each Friday evening in <strong>March</strong>, the<br />

series will include 5 sessions of beer education<br />

events for women. queenofcraft<strong>2019</strong>.eventbrite.ca<br />

Stratford<br />

It may be the end of another Stratford Festival<br />

season, which brought diners in droves to the<br />

city for prix fixe menus, but the city’s restaurant<br />

community continues to be open for business, and<br />

not just for the locals. Stratford has been known for<br />

decades for setting the benchmark when it comes<br />

to dining, but until just a few years ago it wasn’t<br />

feasible for many of the restaurants to operate<br />

year-round. That has all been changing and many<br />

great restaurants are open year-round.<br />

Drop by the Stratford Tourism Alliance for a<br />

slate of self-guided culinary tours. If you’re a<br />

choco-holic, the Savour Stratford Chocolate Trail<br />

is the way to go. Spend an afternoon strolling<br />

the Victorian streets of Stratford and sampling<br />

chocolate in a wide variety of manifestations. The<br />

self-guided Chocolate Trail is offered year-round<br />

and includes a gift at your choice of six of the 27<br />

stops. Tickets are just $30 (+HST) and valid for 1<br />

week from the date of purchase. No sweet tooth?<br />

There is also a self-guided Bacon & Ale Trail!<br />

visitstratford.ca/chocolatetrail<br />

Stratford’s newest micro-brewery is Herald<br />

Haus Brewing Co., situated in the historic Herald<br />

building, former headquarters of the Stratford<br />

Herald newspaper. The premises have undergone<br />

extensive refurbishment. It is owned and operated<br />

by Daniel J. Graver and a team which includes head<br />

brewer Jeff Macdonald and assistant brewer John<br />

Zippel. Drop by the taproom for expertly poured<br />

pints, cans for purchase and an exclusive menu<br />

prepared by the Hub kitchen team next door. Open<br />

Tuesday to Sunday 11am to 9pm. 21 Market Place,<br />

519- 508-1890, heraldhaus.com<br />

“A locally sourced restaurant, run by workers,<br />

owned by workers, shared by the community,”<br />

sums up The Red Rabbit’s ethos. Executive chef<br />

Sean Collins terms the cooking as “Flavour First,<br />

Ingredient Driven.” Chef’s mantra, “We cook food<br />

we like to eat.” We recently had a stack of luscious<br />

Buttermilk Pancakes topped with warm maple<br />

syrup and a generous slab of foie gras, followed by<br />

Vietnamese Caramel Fried Chicken and t savoury<br />

and nutty tasting Sunchoke Puree. 64 <strong>Wellington</strong><br />

Street, 519-305-6464, redrabbitresto.com<br />

Jessie Votary and the folks at Stratford’s The<br />

Red Rabbit and Okazu 85 Downie love building<br />

new, worker-owned restaurants. The new Old<br />

Man & Son allows them another opportunity to<br />

offer fair wages and year round employment —<br />

and of course to serve the luscious, super fluffy<br />

pancakes, smoked bacon and sausage, avocado<br />

toast and other delicious food to early risers. At<br />

lunch there is a great selection of burgers and<br />

sandwiches with their own idiosyncratic twist.<br />

Open for breakfast and lunch, 7am–2pm. Closed<br />

Mondays and Tuesdays. 75 <strong>Wellington</strong> Street, 519-<br />

305-7575, oldmanandson.com<br />

Want to learn the trade secrets of making gnocchi or<br />

sourdough bread from the experts, or how to prepare<br />

a feast of Indian curry, or improve your knife skills?<br />

Stratford Chefs School Open Kitchen features a wide<br />

variety of hands-on cooking classes and learning<br />

opportunities for all home cooks and food lovers this<br />

winter. stratfordchef.com/open-kitchen<br />

We want your BUZZ!<br />

Do you have culinary news or upcoming events<br />

that you’d like us to share?<br />

Every issue, <strong>Eatdrink</strong> reaches more than<br />

50,000 readers throughout <strong>Waterloo</strong> Region &<br />

<strong>Wellington</strong> County in print,<br />

and thousands more online.<br />

Get in touch with us at editor@eatdrink.ca<br />

Submission deadline for the next issue is <strong>March</strong> 5.<br />


<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>February</strong>/<strong>March</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 39<br />

Recipes<br />

Yum & Yummer<br />

Ridiculously Tasty Recipes That’ll Blow Your Mind,<br />

But Not Your Diet!<br />

Review and Recipe Selections by TRACY TURLIN<br />

Many of us will make a commitment<br />

to healthier living after the holidays,<br />

even if it’s a foggy memory<br />

of a New Year’s resolution shouted<br />

at a ceiling full of streamers. You may try a<br />

strict “I’m never eating cake again” approach<br />

but, for most of us, that just doesn’t last. This<br />

year I found a kinder, gentler approach to<br />

improving the quality of my diet that can work<br />

long after the New Year’s Day fog has lifted.<br />

Yum & Yummer; Ridiculously Tasty Recipes<br />

That’ll Blow Your Mind, But Not Your Diet! (One<br />

Spoon Media Inc: 2017) is Greta Podleski’s<br />

first solo book. The St. Thomas native is well<br />

known as half of the Looneyspoons team with<br />

her sister, Janet. Together, they’ve written<br />

four national bestseller cookbooks and hosted<br />

the Eat, Shrink & Be Merry television series on<br />

Food Network Canada. Greta, now based in<br />

<strong>Waterloo</strong>, has continued to share her love of<br />

good food with us.<br />

Podleski has a non-judgmental approach<br />

to healthy eating that makes us forgive her<br />

unholy love of puns. She’s a self-taught cook<br />

who is passionate about making real food for<br />

real life, preferring fresh, natural ingredients<br />

to something out of a box. Still, she does<br />

recognize that life is complicated and time is<br />

short. When a store-bought ingredient makes<br />

more sense, she advises reading<br />

the label carefully to choose the<br />

best one for your needs.<br />

For those who want all the<br />

details, nutritional analyses<br />

are included with each recipe.<br />

There’s an easy code with each<br />

dish indicating if it’s dairy-free,<br />

gluten-free or vegan. Most<br />

include extra suggestions for<br />

customizing the recipe or tips,<br />

in the form of “Kitchen Whizdom”.<br />

You can get the ingredients<br />

for all of Yum & Yummer’s<br />

recipes at any<br />

well-stocked<br />

grocery<br />

store and<br />

most can<br />

be made<br />

in time<br />

for a busy<br />

weeknight<br />

dinner.<br />

I think<br />

anyone<br />

could<br />

find<br />

something<br />

to love in this book.<br />

Podleski studied food photography so she<br />

could take the photos herself and the results<br />

are wonderful. There are beautiful pictures<br />

with every recipe in addition to a QR code<br />

(which she calls a YUM code) that you can scan<br />

with your smartphone or tablet to watch a<br />

short video. If, like me, you have a cell phone<br />

old enough to have a rotary dial, you can<br />

just go online to yumyummer.com to see all<br />

the videos. The only thing I enjoy more than<br />

cooking good food is watching someone else<br />

do it.<br />

The Apricot, Sriracha & Ginger-Glazed<br />

Meatballs are perfect as<br />

appetizers but I also tried<br />

Greta Podleski<br />

adding them to rice noodle<br />

bowls as a main dish and was<br />

delighted with the results.<br />

Made with ground chicken,<br />

they are light, sweet, spicy and<br />

tangy, hitting all the notes<br />

for a perfect snack. These are<br />

becoming a regular staple in<br />

my freezer.<br />

Move over Leek & Potato,<br />

there’s a new soup in town.<br />

Stuffed Bell Pepper Soup is

40 | <strong>February</strong>/<strong>March</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

now my favourite cold weather food. It’s<br />

filled with all the flavours of a stuffed pepper<br />

but it’s easier to make and as a steamy bowl<br />

of soup is far more comforting. I usually have<br />

cooked rice in the fridge which means I can<br />

make this dish in one pot, in under an hour<br />

with pantry staples. Theoretically, this leaves<br />

extra time for more exercise, another New<br />

Years Resolution. Which I will do as soon as<br />

I’ve read through this book a few more times.<br />

And finished all the videos. I swear.<br />

Yum & Yummer is a very well rounded book.<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

It’s informative, entertaining and visually<br />

appealing. Best of all, it shows you lots of<br />

ways to put more healthy food on your plate,<br />

keeping you satisfied enough to resist the high<br />

calorie, low nutrition offerings left over from<br />

the holidays. Which is not to say that this is<br />

“diet” food, just better food. Who couldn’t use<br />

more of that?<br />

TRACY TURLIN is a freelance writer and dog groomer<br />

in London. Reach her at tracyturlin@gmail.com<br />

Recipes excerpted from Yum & Yummer: Ridiculously Tasty Recipes That’ll Blow<br />

Your Mind, But Not Your Diet! (One Spoon Media Inc., 2017) by Greta Podleski,<br />

reproduced by arrangement with the Publisher. All rights reserved.<br />

Apricot, Sriracha & Ginger-Glazed Meatballs<br />

As the saying goes, “These aren’t your mama’s<br />

meatballs!” Nothing against mama, of course.<br />

And I don’t believe that’s actually a saying.<br />

Regardless, I created this sweet-heat, partymeatball<br />

recipe specifically for Sriracha lovers.<br />

You know, the folks who carry around mini<br />

squeeze bottles of the trendy hot sauce on their<br />

key chains? Make these when you wanna kick<br />

things up a notch.<br />

Preheat oven to 400ºF.<br />

In a large bowl, combine ground chicken, bread crumbs,<br />

onions, hoisin sauce, egg, garlic, gingerroot, sesame oil,<br />

salt and pepper (using your hands works best). Form<br />

mixture into bite-sized meatballs, about 1 1/2 inches in<br />

diameter. Wetting your hands helps prevent the chicken<br />

mixture from sticking to them. (Ground chicken and<br />

turkey are kinda sticky!) You should end up with about 40<br />

meatballs.<br />


1 ½ lbs (680 g) lean ground chicken<br />

½ cup dry unseasoned bread crumbs<br />

¼ cup finely minced green onions (with white<br />

parts)<br />

2 tbsp hoisin sauce<br />

1 egg<br />

2 tsp minced garlic<br />

1 tsp grated fresh gingerroot<br />

1 tsp dark sesame oil<br />

½ tsp each sea salt and freshly ground black<br />

pepper<br />

GLAZE<br />

1 cup no-sugar-added apricot jam*<br />

¼ cup reduced-sodium soy sauce<br />

1 tbsp freshly squeezed lime juice<br />

1 tbsp Sriracha hot sauce<br />

2 tsp minced garlic<br />

2 tsp grated fresh gingerroot<br />

½ tsp dark sesame oil<br />

Finely chopped green onions and toasted<br />

sesame seeds for garnish (optional)<br />

Place meatballs on a non-stick baking sheet. Bake in<br />

preheated oven for 15 to 18 minutes or until cooked<br />

through. Stir meatballs once, halfway through cooking<br />

time, to brown sides.<br />

While meatballs are cooking, prepare glaze. In a 10-inch,<br />

deep, non-stick skillet, whisk together jam, soy sauce,<br />

lime juice, Sriracha, garlic, gingerroot, and sesame oil.<br />

Cook over medium-high heat until mixture is hot and<br />

bubbly and jam has melted. Add cooked meatballs and<br />

mix gently, ensuring every meatball is coated with sauce.<br />

Garnish with green onions and sesame seeds, if using.<br />

Serve hot.<br />

Makes about 40 meatballs<br />

Per meatball: 40 calories<br />

1.5 g total fat (0.4 g saturated fat)<br />

3.6 g protein<br />

3.3 g carbohydrate (0 g fiber, 2.6 g sugars)<br />

20 mg cholesterol<br />

121 mg sodium<br />

* I found three brands of no-sugar-added<br />

apricot jam at my grocery store, including<br />

the ubiquitous Smuckers.

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<strong>February</strong>/<strong>March</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 41<br />

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42 | <strong>February</strong>/<strong>March</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

Stuffed Bell Pepper Soup<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

We all know that guy who says soup’s not a meal<br />

unless it contains meat, right? I can see you nodding!<br />

I guarantee you won’t hear any “where’s the beef?”<br />

complaints when he eats this feast of a soup for<br />

dinner, since it’s meaty, manly and mighty filling. Plus,<br />

it really does taste like a stuffed bell pepper ... only<br />

much easier to make!<br />

1 tbsp olive oil<br />

1 ¼ lbs (568 g) extra-lean ground beef<br />

1½ cups diced green bell peppers<br />

1 cup diced onions<br />

2 tsp minced garlic<br />

1 ½ tsp dried marjoram<br />

1 ½ tsp chili powder<br />

½ tsp dried basil<br />

½ tsp dried fennel seeds (optional)<br />

4 cups reduced-sodium beef broth<br />

1 can (19 oz/540 mL) petite-cut tomatoes (with<br />

liquid)<br />

1 ½ cups tomato sauce (see Kitchen Whizdom)<br />

½ tsp freshly ground black pepper<br />

Sea salt to taste<br />

2 cups cooked brown rice<br />

Heat olive oil in a large soup pot over medium-high<br />

heat. Add beef. Cook and stir until beef is no longer pink<br />

and lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Add bell peppers,<br />

onions and garlic. Cook and stir until vegetables begin to<br />

soften, about 3 more minutes.<br />

Add marjoram, chili powder, basil and fennel seeds, if<br />

using. Cook and stir for one more minute. Add beef broth,<br />

tomatoes with their liquid , tomato sauce and pepper.<br />

Bring soup to a boil. Reduce heat to low and simmer,<br />

covered, for 30 minutes. Taste and add salt if needed. (I<br />

almost always add salt at this point, depending on the<br />

broth I use.)<br />

If serving immediately, stir in cooked rice, then ladle soup<br />

into serving bowls. If you’re planning on eating the soup<br />

over the course of a couple days, keep the rice separate,<br />

otherwise it’ll soak up all the broth.<br />

Makes about 12 cups soup<br />

Per cup: 174 calories<br />

6.6g total fat (2 g saturated fat)<br />

12.7g protein<br />

16 g carbohydrate (2.4 g fiber, 4.6 g sugars)<br />

26 mg cholesterol<br />

222 mg sodium<br />


I don’t like big pieces of vegetables in this soup, so I dice<br />

the onions and bell peppers small and use “petite-cut”<br />

canned tomatoes (usually with green peppers, celery and<br />

onions added ... a good compliment to this soup). You can<br />

use plain tomato sauce or your favourite, tomato-based<br />

pasta sauce for extra flavour. For example, I often use<br />

Classico brand Sweet Basil Marinara in this soup. By the<br />

way, the chili powder doesn’t make the soup taste like<br />

chili. It just makes it taste BETTER! Use the fennel seeds<br />

if you like the mild black-licorice taste of Italian sausage.<br />

Those with fennel phobia should leave it out.<br />

Follow <strong>Eatdrink</strong> on Facebook<br />

(facebook.com/eatdrinkmag)<br />

and watch for our contest to win a<br />

copy of Yum & Yummer, personally<br />

autographed by Greta Podleski. Coming soon!<br />


October-<strong>March</strong><br />

Calendar, menus and<br />

reservations online<br />

StratfordChefsSchool<br />

@StratfordChef<br />


Hands-on classes for the<br />

dedicated home cook.<br />

Registration online<br />


<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>February</strong>/<strong>March</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 43<br />

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44 | <strong>February</strong>/<strong>March</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Books<br />

Plate of Darkness<br />

Apocalypse Chow<br />

A Remix of Joseph Conrad’s Heart of Darkness<br />

by David Julian Wightman<br />

Review by DARIN COOK<br />

A<br />

Toronto-educated, Ottawa-based<br />

journalist has given the restaurant<br />

scene a wild makeover —not by<br />

cooking elaborate dishes, mixing<br />

exotic drinks, or waiting tables with exquisite<br />

aplomb, but by brewing up a fictional<br />

rendering of chefs in grand literary style.<br />

Introduced in Joseph Conrad’s novella Heart<br />

of Darkness in 1899, Kurtz and Marlow are two<br />

names oozing with literary history. Francis<br />

Ford Coppola famously adopted the characters<br />

into the 1979 Hollywood blockbuster<br />

Apocalypse Now. With a tip of the hat to<br />

both those classics, David Julian Wightman<br />

has written a parody of Conrad’s story and<br />

Coppola’s movie by giving Kurtz and Marlow<br />

new culinary identities in his self-published<br />

book, Apocalypse Chow: A Remix of Joseph<br />

Conrad’s Heart of Darkness (2018).<br />

The story starts at Belly, New York’s hottest<br />

restaurant, with the usual<br />

suspects gathering after a<br />

weekend closing. Along with<br />

Wightman’s readers, the<br />

group of chefs, busboys and<br />

waiters are led down a path<br />

exploring the dark corners of<br />

the restaurant world. Charlie<br />

Marlow points out to his<br />

colleagues that Manhattan<br />

is “one of the dark places<br />

of the Earth,” but the rest<br />

of them know he has seen<br />

harsher territories in a swathe<br />

of illustrious restaurants<br />

jobs, the wildest of all being<br />

his time at Chow, a remote<br />

destination restaurant in<br />

northern Ontario. Walter<br />

Kurtz was the head chef at<br />

Author David Julian Wightman<br />

Chow and gained<br />

a reputation as<br />

the most talented<br />

chef in Canada.<br />

But he went<br />

rogue, and the<br />

restaurant<br />

owners wanted<br />

to part ways<br />

with the unorthodox<br />

chef. They recruited Marlow, a legendary<br />

restaurant manager in his own right, to track<br />

down and relieve the renegade chef of his<br />

duties.<br />

Nearly the entire novella is in Marlow’s<br />

words as he tells his restaurant brethren at<br />

Belly about his venture into the hinterlands<br />

to confront Chef Kurtz. As a veteran in the<br />

field, Marlow knows “the restaurant industry<br />

can be a stifling thing, a burden we choose<br />

to carry, to varying degrees<br />

of commitment. It can turn<br />

men into monsters.” He<br />

yearns to know what drove<br />

Kurtz over the deep end<br />

and into the weeds, because<br />

firing the best chef in Canada<br />

seemed a tall order without<br />

knowing the full story. It<br />

took some time for Marlow<br />

and his crew to trek by land<br />

and river to the secluded<br />

restaurant. He tells us how<br />

“the journey felt like a<br />

tortured night at work, when<br />

the hordes are at table and<br />

the restaurant struggles to<br />

cope … the madness of an<br />

out-of-control service.” He<br />

used the time to contemplate

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

his mission and to gain an understanding<br />

of the wayward chef by talking to others<br />

— renegade food truck owners, strung-out<br />

dishwashers, overworked kitchen staff,<br />

sycophantic food critics. Kurtz was so well<br />

known for his outstanding food, people didn’t<br />

know whether to praise him or ostracize<br />

him. Wightman’s readers are strung along<br />

to find out what will happen once Marlow<br />

tracks down this so-called visionary chef.<br />

Will Marlow be able to follow through with<br />

his mission, or will “the inestimable privilege<br />

of dining at Chow” and the enticement of<br />

delectable cuisine from a culinary genius<br />

distract him from the job he was hired to do?<br />

Readers not familiar with the namesake<br />

works need not worry, since Apocalypse<br />

Chow is an enjoyable stand-alone read that<br />

clearly comes from a writer who knows the<br />

restaurant world. The story Marlow tells<br />

is steeped in restaurant lore. Wightman<br />

could be part of that kitchen crew sitting<br />

around the table in Belly: “Between us was<br />

the bond of the restaurant trade, a common<br />

understanding among men who’d long<br />

served.” Wightman put himself through<br />

Ryerson journalism school by bartending<br />

and waiting tables in Toronto restaurants<br />

and Marlow’s recap of his own experience is<br />

influenced by those years of service, including<br />

observations about food security, the allure<br />

of celebrity chefs, the hierarchical tensions<br />

between restaurant staff at the front and back<br />

of house, and illustrious menus comprised of<br />

the prodigious bounty of ingredients found by<br />

foraging in northern Ontario.<br />

Marlow says that his trip to Chow “seemed<br />

to throw a kind of light on everything about<br />

me, and the industry, and the entire society<br />

we feed which in turn feeds us.” Marlow’s role<br />

can be narrowed down to one man telling<br />

his most prized story — same as Wightman,<br />

whose own story is appreciably influenced<br />

by the writing of Anthony Bourdain. In the<br />

acknowledgements Wightman expresses<br />

regret that the late author/chef who inspired<br />

him cannot read Apocalypse Chow himself,<br />

but it is easy to assume that readers drawn<br />

to Bourdain’s books will thoroughly enjoy<br />

Wightman’s retelling of the deep, dark,<br />

culinary relationship of Kurtz and Marlow.<br />

DARIN COOK is a freelance writer based in Chatham.<br />

He keeps himself well-read and well-fed by visiting the<br />

bookstores and restaurants of London.<br />

SATURDAY, MARCH 30, <strong>2019</strong><br />

9AM – 4PM<br />

Wolf Performance Hall<br />

and adjacent Conference Rooms,<br />

Citi Plaza, London, Ontario<br />

251 Dundas St. London, ON<br />

• Shop Vendors<br />

• Tasting Workshops<br />

• Industry Speakers<br />

Celebrating Tea<br />

and Kombucha in<br />

London, Ontario<br />

Londonteafestival.ca<br />

LTKFinfo@gmail.com<br />


46 | <strong>February</strong>/<strong>March</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

The Lighter Side<br />

Behind Closed Doors<br />


For many years I harboured some<br />

secrets. They were in my bedroom<br />

closet, hidden away from impressionable,<br />

young eyes. Once a week I’d<br />

bring them out. My spouse was in on my<br />

secret. One could argue, is it still a secret<br />

if your better half knows? Yes, because it’s<br />

something we kept from my young adult son.<br />

Anyone with a teen or young adult male<br />

in the household might be keeping the same<br />

secrets —for survival purposes.<br />

When my son left the house, I’d watch<br />

him disappear<br />

around the<br />

bend, wait ten<br />

minutes, and<br />

then call to my<br />

spouse, “He’s<br />

gone!” We’d<br />

race to the<br />

bedroom and<br />

eagerly open<br />

the closet door,<br />

or crawl under<br />

the bed for the<br />

contraband.<br />

Now that<br />

we’re on the<br />

subject of the forbidden, I kept a stockpile<br />

in my nightstand too. It wasn’t kinky toys<br />

or other naughty paraphernalia, nor was<br />

it bottles of wine, beer or other mood<br />

enhancers. We’re dull people. We had to hide<br />

food. Yep, you read that right — food.<br />

My son had a hollow leg accompanied by<br />

a fast metabolism. He’d eat dinner, have<br />

seconds and thirds, and an hour later rip<br />

into a bag of Doritos. And he wouldn’t just<br />

eat a few, or leave half the bag for later, or<br />

heaven forbid, leave some for us. No! Gone<br />

in one go.<br />

Our breakfasts might start with us finding<br />

only a dribble of milk for the cereal. We’d<br />

decide instead to start the day with toast,<br />

only to find that Wonder Boy had used all the<br />

bread for a midnight gobble. Then perhaps an<br />

egg dish? They had flown the coop too!<br />

We felt like the Dad in A Christmas Story<br />

when the Bumpus hounds made off with<br />

the turkey. We were so gobsmacked that<br />

sometimes the cussing didn’t come out right.<br />

Leftovers were lost. Nutella, none. Pop<br />

Tarts, pilfered. Granola bars, gone. Cookies,<br />

crackers and chips disappeared. The milk<br />

went missing, and the peanut butter.<br />

We started to buy doubles of items, and<br />

hide them, at first in other parts of the<br />

kitchen, but<br />

he somehow<br />

managed to<br />

sniff them<br />

out.<br />

When we<br />

wanted to<br />

watch a movie<br />

with a snack,<br />

we were like<br />

old Mother<br />

Hubbard with<br />

cupboards<br />

bare. Complaints<br />

and<br />

entreaties fell<br />

on deaf ears, probably because the crunching<br />

of the chips was too loud.<br />

We were forced to hide food in our<br />

bedroom, and even toyed with the notion<br />

of getting a mini fridge installed in the<br />

wardrobe so we could have milk and yogurt<br />

in the morning.<br />

Eventually Hungry Harry went away to<br />

college. No more stake-outs or secrets. We<br />

could finally live our true lives … out of the<br />

closet!<br />

J.J. FRANCISSEN resides in London,where she spends<br />

her time writing nature, travel, historical and human<br />

interest articles, and working toward getting her novels<br />


<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>February</strong>/<strong>March</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 47<br />

a<br />

movement<br />

for<br />

restaurants<br />

who believe<br />

local food<br />

matters.<br />

®<br />

A Feast On® Certification means<br />

you’re fighting the good food fight.<br />

You’re supporting our farmers<br />

and putting local food first.<br />

To get certified, visit:<br />



48 | <strong>February</strong>/<strong>March</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Friday, April 5 th<br />

5:00 PM - 10:30 PM<br />

Saturday, April 6 th<br />

12:00 PM - 10:30 PM<br />

At<br />

Presented By<br />

Advance tickets at:<br />


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