Eatdrink #76 March/April 2019
The Women's Issue. Local food & drink magazine serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario since 2007.
The Women's Issue. Local food & drink magazine serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario since 2007.
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Issue <strong>#76</strong> | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />
eatdrink<br />
The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine<br />
The<br />
Women’s<br />
Issue<br />
Dedication<br />
Perspiration<br />
Motivation<br />
Inspiration<br />
Hospitality<br />
Eleanor Kane<br />
Co-founder,<br />
Stratford Chefs School<br />
Serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario since 2007<br />
www.eatdrink.ca
2 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />
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FACEBOOK REVIEW<br />
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eatdrink<br />
4 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />
<br />
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />
The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine<br />
eatdrinkmagazine<br />
@eatdrinkmag<br />
eatdrinkmag<br />
eatdrink.ca<br />
Think Global. Read Local.<br />
Publisher<br />
Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca<br />
Managing Editor Cecilia Buy – cbuy@eatdrink.ca<br />
Food Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca<br />
Copy Editor Kym Wolfe<br />
Social Media Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca<br />
Advertising Sales Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca<br />
Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca<br />
Stacey McDonald – stacey@eatdrink.ca<br />
Terry-Lynn “TL” Sim – TL@eatdrink.ca<br />
Finances<br />
Ann Cormier – finance@eatdrink.ca<br />
Graphics<br />
Chris McDonell, Cecilia Buy<br />
Writers<br />
Jane Antoniak, Gerry Blackwell,<br />
Tanya Chopp, Darin Cook,<br />
Gary Killops, Nancy Loucks-McSloy,<br />
Bryan Lavery, George Macke,<br />
Sue Sutherland Wood<br />
Photographers Bruce Fyfe, Steve Grimes<br />
Telephone & Fax 519-434-8349<br />
Mailing Address 525 Huron Street, London ON N5Y 4J6<br />
Website<br />
City Media, Cecilia Buy<br />
Printing<br />
Sportswood Printing<br />
OUR COVER<br />
Eleanor Kane of Stratford<br />
is the co-founder of the<br />
the nationally renowned<br />
Stratford Chefs School<br />
and a 2018 recipient<br />
of an Ontario Senior<br />
Achievement Award.<br />
Photo Courtesy of<br />
Stratford Chefs School<br />
© <strong>2019</strong> <strong>Eatdrink</strong> Inc. and the writers.<br />
All rights reserved.<br />
Reproduction or duplication of any material published in <strong>Eatdrink</strong><br />
or on <strong>Eatdrink</strong>.ca is strictly prohibited without the written permission<br />
of the Publisher. <strong>Eatdrink</strong> has a printed circulation of 20,000<br />
issues published six times annually in each of two markets, for a total<br />
of 240,000 copies in print. The views or opinions expressed in the<br />
information, content and/or advertisements published in <strong>Eatdrink</strong><br />
or online are solely those of the author(s) and do not necessarily<br />
represent those of the Publisher. The Publisher welcomes submissions<br />
but accepts no responsibility for unsolicited material.<br />
Serving up<br />
Great<br />
partnerships<br />
commercial | digital | wide format | design<br />
Let us help with your next project...<br />
519.866.5558 | ben@sportswood.on.ca<br />
www.sportswood.on.ca
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Contents<br />
Issue <strong>#76</strong> | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />
The Second Annual Women’s Issue<br />
Publisher’s Notes<br />
Wine<br />
The Women’s Issue Redux<br />
Our Second Annual Celebration<br />
By CHRIS McDONELL<br />
8<br />
40<br />
Remembering Michèle Bosc<br />
A Champion of Ontario Wine<br />
By GARY KILLOPS<br />
40<br />
Spotlight<br />
Music<br />
London Women in Food (<strong>2019</strong>)<br />
Ten Talented Women Making<br />
a Difference<br />
By KYM WOLFE<br />
10<br />
Stratford Women in Food (<strong>2019</strong>)<br />
Seven Sisters with a Seat at the Table<br />
By BRYAN LAVERY<br />
20<br />
Elgin Women in Food (<strong>2019</strong>)<br />
Six Women Leading the Way<br />
By TANYA CHOPP<br />
27<br />
Sarnia-Lambton/Huron County<br />
Women in Food (<strong>2019</strong>)<br />
Entrepreneurs in Good Taste<br />
By NANCY LOUCKS-McSLOY<br />
32<br />
Restaurants<br />
A Delicious Destination<br />
The Village Teapot, in Ilderton<br />
By JANE ANTONIAK<br />
18<br />
Beer<br />
If You Love it, Do it<br />
Women in Beer<br />
By GEORGE MACKE<br />
37<br />
37<br />
10<br />
20<br />
46<br />
32<br />
18<br />
I Feel it Coming<br />
Upcoming Musical Highlights<br />
By GERRY BLACKWELL<br />
43<br />
Theatre<br />
Dabbling in Wonderful<br />
Donna Feore on Work, Parenting<br />
& Inspiration<br />
By JANE ANTONIAK<br />
46<br />
The BUZZ<br />
Culinary Community Notes<br />
New and Notable<br />
50<br />
Books<br />
Tea for More than Two<br />
A Literary Tea Party<br />
Review by DARIN COOK<br />
60<br />
The Lighter Side<br />
Home is Where the Hygge Is<br />
By SUE SUTHERLAND WOOD<br />
62<br />
60
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />
<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 7<br />
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8 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />
Publisher’s Notes<br />
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />
The Women’s Issue Redux<br />
Our Second Annual Celebration<br />
By CHRIS McDONELL<br />
There was no doubt that we would<br />
reprise our efforts to celebrate<br />
women in our culinary<br />
community after we received<br />
such a warm reception last year. As I<br />
noted then, while there has not been a<br />
single issue of <strong>Eatdrink</strong> ever published<br />
that didn’t acknowledge important<br />
contributions from women, the time<br />
had come to be more intentional and<br />
overt about that. Not that there weren’t<br />
some complaints, but by and large<br />
those disagreements surrounded<br />
the omissions we made, not who was profiled.<br />
Then, as now, there was just no way to include<br />
<strong>Eatdrink</strong> #70, <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> 2018<br />
all of the women worthy of celebration.<br />
The only helpful criteria that we could<br />
strictly employ in this round was to<br />
choose an entirely different list. I<br />
encourage you to avail yourself of our<br />
extensive online archive of magazines<br />
and articles on our website. Visit<br />
Issue #70 or search “women” and you<br />
can reread our profiles of a stalwart<br />
group that would easily qualify as<br />
outstanding candidates in <strong>2019</strong>. I’m<br />
not certain when a woman<br />
will be chosen to be profiled in<br />
this annual issue a second time, but for now<br />
previous selections are disqualified.<br />
spark<br />
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For any and all of your travel needs<br />
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TICO#50013851
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />
We have once again chosen a geographical<br />
focus for our groupings of women, and we’ve<br />
expanded the list to include four regions. Each<br />
writer has taken a slightly different approach,<br />
but I believe you will agree that this makes for<br />
more interesting reading. The biggest challenge,<br />
again, is tight space considerations, but we<br />
have endeavored to give readers a sense of what<br />
makes these women significant contributors to<br />
our local food and drink culture.<br />
It is International Women’s Day on <strong>March</strong><br />
8, but we’ll be celebrating this <strong>Eatdrink</strong> for a<br />
couple of months. We hope we might inspire<br />
similar efforts to honour the women in our<br />
lives, spanning the entire year. Let’s continue<br />
to do our best, respect the #metoo movement<br />
and political action for equality, and stand up<br />
for the most vulnerable women in our society.<br />
Many of them are in the hospitality industry,<br />
and in food production, and exciting changes<br />
are happening in these arenas. Support them.<br />
We’ve continued our Women’s theme<br />
throughout the magazine. Our restaurant<br />
profile of The Village Teapot is a highlight for<br />
me, as it is a quintessential women’s story<br />
as much as it is about a small town café. Our<br />
<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 9<br />
wine column is a remembrance and I am<br />
certain I won’t be the only one to wish I had<br />
known Michèle Bosc. Everyone excited about<br />
the craft beer renaissance will appreciate the<br />
insights on the industry from four young<br />
women currently immersed in it. The future<br />
looks bright, and will not be denied.<br />
Jane Antoniak’s interview of choreographer<br />
Donna Feore veers off the topic of the theatre<br />
in the way good conversations always do,<br />
circling back to the subject at hand but with<br />
myriad related thoughts shared. And our<br />
Lighter Side is another insightful musing from<br />
Sue Sutherland Wood, leaving us with the<br />
same sense of hygge (that’s all explained in the<br />
story!) that she writes about.<br />
I can’t reflect about women without acknowledging<br />
my wife Sue, my mother Nora, my<br />
daughter Tara, my five sisters Anne, Carolyn,<br />
Marjorie, Barb and Janet, and the women that<br />
make <strong>Eatdrink</strong> tick: Cecilia, Ann, Stacey, TL,<br />
Kym, Tracy, Tanya, Jane, Nancy and the other<br />
writers. Your strength is appreciated, and<br />
infectious, and I am grateful for you.<br />
Peace,<br />
#GetDTL #LDNENT<br />
Show your Mom some love this Mother’s Day with a gift of Downtown Dollars.
10 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />
Spotlight<br />
London Women in Food (<strong>2019</strong>)<br />
Ten Talented Women Making a Difference<br />
By KYM WOLFE<br />
Photo by Alieska Robles, alieskarobles.com<br />
Tabitha Bartlett<br />
Co-Owner/Operator,La Noisette Bakery & Deli<br />
“I grew up in a family that ate meat and<br />
potatoes,” says Tabitha Bartlett, co-owner/<br />
operator of La Noisette Bakery and Deli. “I<br />
started experimenting with different foods<br />
when I was about 10 — basic, but I had fun<br />
with it. I reached a point where I couldn’t<br />
teach myself anymore… I might be aging<br />
myself, but it was before YouTube and Google<br />
were the go-to for recipes. So I enrolled in the<br />
culinary program at Fanshawe.”<br />
Tabitha Bartlett & her daughter<br />
Fast forward through graduating with a<br />
diploma in Culinary Management, working<br />
in the industry for more than 15 years, and<br />
managing a large chain restaurant, all the<br />
while holding tight to “massive dreams of one<br />
day opening my own place.” Almost five years<br />
ago she finally did, with business partner Dave<br />
Coulter, an experienced Cordon Bleu chef.<br />
“I love that food brings people together, it’s<br />
common ground — no matter who you are or<br />
what you do, where you’re from, you need to<br />
eat. One good meal really can open up good<br />
conversation,” says Bartlett. “When I was<br />
very young, my grandparents nearly opened<br />
their own restaurant. It never happened, but I<br />
thought it was so cool at the time. It came back<br />
to mind when I was talking to my mother about<br />
growth for our business and what the next<br />
year may hold for us, and she told me that my<br />
grandfather would’ve been so proud of me. All<br />
the memories of the restaurant-that-never-was<br />
came rolling back. So now I feel a new sense of<br />
purpose for what I do.”<br />
Chandany Chen<br />
Pastry Chef, Abruzzi Ristorante<br />
Chandany Chen’s first degree was in Science,<br />
and when she graduated she worked for a<br />
while doing research for a company that<br />
produced fertilizer. But she quickly realized,<br />
“it was not for me. I only wish I had figured<br />
that out a lot sooner!” Back to school she<br />
went, and has since graduated from Fanshawe<br />
College’s Culinary Management program<br />
and worked in kitchens in London and Port<br />
Stanley before moving to Abbruzzi Ristorante<br />
a year and a half ago.<br />
“I am currently the pastry chef at Abruzzi and<br />
Chandany Chen
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />
will also be the pastry chef at Abruzzi’s sister<br />
restaurant, Taverna 1331, when it opens later<br />
this year,” says Chen. “When the chance presents<br />
itself, I also search for ways to contribute to the<br />
community as a volunteer with Growing Chefs!<br />
as a food educator for school visits or as a chef<br />
for the cooking classes.”<br />
Chen has been a foodie from birth, she<br />
says. In her Cambodian household growing<br />
up, “we always had people in the house and<br />
everyone helped cook, from scratch, then we<br />
would enjoy the meal together. I always had<br />
an artistic side, too. Now I see every plate<br />
as a canvas, and I just want to try to make<br />
something beautiful out of it.”<br />
“I’d like to learn more, and I’m compiling a list<br />
of restaurants I would like to work in and pastry<br />
chefs that I would like to learn from,” she adds.<br />
“I’d like to bring those skills back to London.”<br />
Alexandra Connon<br />
Owner, The Boombox Bakeshop<br />
“I was taught how to bake by my late father<br />
Fred, and inspired by his passion for all things<br />
culinary,” says Alexandra Connon. After<br />
years of research and experimentation, she<br />
combined her father’s dream of operating a<br />
food establishment with her knowledge of<br />
vegan baking and business management, and<br />
opened The Boombox Bakeshop and café in<br />
2014. She also threw her passion for music<br />
into the mix. “You’ll never catch us without<br />
London’s New Culinary Adventure!<br />
African Breakfast<br />
Sundays<br />
“Reasonably priced, fresh, well-executed<br />
Ethiopian cuisine ...” — Bryan Lavery, <strong>Eatdrink</strong><br />
• FAMILY FRIENDLY<br />
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• Takeout<br />
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Recommended<br />
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Tuesday–Sunday 11am–10pm by reservation<br />
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465 Dundas Street 519 433-4222<br />
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Destination for the food lover<br />
Featuring specialty foods,<br />
kitchenwares, tablewares,<br />
cooking classes and gift baskets.<br />
115 King St., London Ontario<br />
jillstable.ca 519-645-1335<br />
Alexandra Connor
12 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />
tunes playing while we are busy baking and<br />
serving up drinks and treats,” she says.<br />
For the first four years the bakeshop<br />
specialized in vegan desserts — mainly<br />
cupcakes and mini-pies, along with a few<br />
seasonal goodies — but recently added<br />
savoury baked goods to the menu. “We always<br />
wanted to expand our menu to include lunch<br />
items, but we had space constraints,” says<br />
Connon. “Since we moved to our new space<br />
(on Adelaide Street at Princess Avenue) we<br />
have a larger kitchen and, one year in, we are<br />
ready to branch out.”<br />
The first offering, a mushroom and<br />
lentil pot pie, was an instant hit with both<br />
vegan and non-vegan clients, she says, and<br />
customers can expect to see more options<br />
going forward. “The Boombox Bakeshop has<br />
been shaped by the Old East Village and vegan<br />
communities, and we will always be a vegan<br />
shop — there is no meat, dairy or eggs on the<br />
premises. Our goal is to make great tasting<br />
vegan food for everyone to enjoy.”<br />
Margaret Coons<br />
Owner, Nuts for Cheese<br />
“I started experimenting with nut cheeses<br />
when I worked as a chef at the vegan<br />
restaurant Veg Out,” says Margaret Coons,<br />
owner and self-described “big cheese” at<br />
Nuts for Cheese. “The restaurant kitchen was<br />
actually my first production facility — I used<br />
to rent it after the restaurant closed and stay<br />
Margaret Coons<br />
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />
up through the night to create my cheeses.”<br />
Cheese-making might seem like an odd fit<br />
for someone with a BA in English Literature,<br />
but Coons is also a trained and certified vegan<br />
chef. “I became a vegetarian when I was 12 and<br />
started experimenting with food and cooking<br />
for myself at a young age,” she says. “The<br />
process of mindfully creating and delighting<br />
in food helps me stay rooted in the whole<br />
reason behind my business: a love of good,<br />
shared food.”<br />
Nuts for Cheese crafts dairy-free and vegan<br />
cheeses from cultured organic cashews. “I<br />
experimented with sunflower seeds, hemp<br />
hearts and miso, but I ended up sticking with<br />
cashews because they are really versatile,” says<br />
Coons. “Getting the texture and mouthful<br />
feeling just right is both a science and an<br />
art. For people who cannot or choose not to<br />
consume dairy, finding something to replace<br />
that rich, savoury experience of cheese is a<br />
challenging journey.”<br />
Her cheeses seem to have hit the mark,<br />
with word-of-mouth propelling distribution to<br />
stores across Ontario and into Quebec. “The<br />
rate at which we’ve grown has definitely been<br />
a huge manufacturing challenge,” says Coons,<br />
who is proud to note that all products are still<br />
hand-crafted, right here in London.<br />
Michele Lenhardt<br />
Pastry Chef, Rhino Lounge Bakery & Coffee<br />
Shoppe, Museum London<br />
“For me baking is an art form,” says Michele<br />
Lenhardt, whose passion for pasty-as-art has<br />
led her to positions as pastry chef in decidedly<br />
artistic settings — first at the Art Gallery of<br />
Ontario, and now at the Rhino Lounge Bakery<br />
& Coffee Shoppe at Museum London. After<br />
moving to London 12 years ago she created the<br />
Black Walnut Bakery Café in Wortley Village,<br />
which she owned and operated for five years<br />
before moving to her current position.<br />
“The most satisfying aspect of cooking and<br />
baking for me is creative experimentation<br />
and recipe development,” says Lenhardt, who<br />
studied Baking and Pastry Arts at George<br />
Brown College as well as Advanced French<br />
Patisserie. “It will often take two or three<br />
times to get it to where I want it to be. One<br />
of my specialties is the vegan donuts that<br />
I created for the Rhino.” They have proven<br />
to be popular, and are now also available<br />
at Locomotive Café — but only on Fridays.<br />
Lenhardt also produces pastries for Jess<br />
Jazey-Spoelstra’s North Moore Catering, The
“a gastronomical landmark for over 23 years”<br />
Booking<br />
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Michele Lenhardt<br />
River Room, and Craft Farmacy.<br />
When she’s not in the kitchen Lenhardt<br />
enjoys vintage shopping, for everything from<br />
clothing and housewares to artwork. And she<br />
has recently started working on a plant-based<br />
cookbook that will include all sorts of comfort<br />
foods. “I’m pretty passionate about plant-based<br />
cooking,” she says, and she’s enjoying the<br />
process of experimenting and developing the<br />
recipes. “I just started, so it’s a year or two away.”<br />
Jodie Marshall<br />
Co-owner, Marshall’s Pasta and Bakery<br />
Meet the Marshalls: Jodie has a degree in<br />
Applied Science, majoring in Consumer<br />
Behaviour; Blake played professional football<br />
with the Edmonton Eskimos; both come from<br />
families that had their own businesses. So<br />
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GRACERESTAURANTLONDON<br />
GRACELDNONT
14 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />
perhaps it’s not surprising that in their post-<br />
CFL life the Marshalls would want to start a<br />
business themselves, that Jodie would handle<br />
the human relations and marketing, and that<br />
one of their biggest client groups would be<br />
local sports teams.<br />
Marshall’s Pasta Mill opened in 1995. Ten<br />
years ago the couple purchased Lusitania<br />
Bakery and moved their pasta business<br />
into the Adelaide Street store. With the<br />
complementary businesses under one roof,<br />
Marshall’s became a one-stop shop for a<br />
full pasta dinner with the fixings, offering a<br />
variety of fresh pastas and sauces, Portuguese<br />
breads, prepared meals, lasagna, soups,<br />
meatballs and more.<br />
Jodie runs the daily operations, from school<br />
hot lunches and group fundraising events, to<br />
walk-in customers and catering orders. There<br />
is also a wholesale side of the business that<br />
delivers freshly baked bread to local restaurants.<br />
“The two things that I find most satisfying<br />
about my job are that we make really good<br />
healthy food that people love, and that we are<br />
able to help others in our community,” says<br />
Jodie. “I am involved with different social<br />
justice committees and Marshall’s supports<br />
many charitable organizations. Helping<br />
others, whether it is through my business or<br />
in my personal life, is the most important<br />
thing for me.”<br />
Michelle Pierce Hamilton<br />
Owner, The Tea Lounge & beTeas<br />
When Michelle Pierce Hamilton worked in<br />
the financial and banking industry she visited<br />
tea places in different parts of the world, and<br />
was quite taken with the artistry and love<br />
demonstrated by the tea masters. “You just feel<br />
so peaceful,” she says. She started to seriously<br />
study tea when people who were close to her<br />
Michelle Pearce Hamilton<br />
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />
were diagnosed with chronic diseases, and she<br />
realized that constant travel and unhealthy<br />
eating and lifestyle were taking a toll on her<br />
and her family. “I felt a lack of control, and<br />
almost immediately I stopped smoking and<br />
eating fast food, and I started studying tea as a<br />
replacement for coffee, because I always had a<br />
warm beverage in my hand.”<br />
After training as a Nutritionist and a<br />
Certified Tea Sommelier she launched beTeas<br />
in 2010. The site educates people about the<br />
health benefits of tea, and the online store<br />
sells quality loose leaf teas, tisanes and<br />
functional tea ware. Teas are sourced from<br />
around the world, with a focus on single estate<br />
and artisanal teas from origin.<br />
Two years ago Pierce Hamilton opened The<br />
Tea Lounge on Piccadilly Street and created<br />
“the place I always wished I could go to” right<br />
here in London. Some of the décor comes<br />
from a Toronto restaurant that was run by her<br />
birth father. “His was the first Indo-Pakistani<br />
restaurant in Toronto,” she says. “He was never<br />
able to see the Tea Lounge in person before he<br />
passed away last year, but I had Skyped from<br />
there a few times, and he was delighted.”<br />
Dee Spencer<br />
Owner, The Donut Diva Mini Donut Food Truck<br />
A self-described “Professional Donutologist”,<br />
Dee Spencer has developed over 50 different<br />
recipes for her mini-donuts, ranging from<br />
basic to gourmet flavours like cheesecake or<br />
‘BetterTart’ (because it tastes better than<br />
butter tart, she says). You’ll find her selling<br />
her sweet treats out of Donut Diva food truck<br />
at different locations, mainly in London.<br />
She posts her changing whereabouts on her<br />
facebook page (fb.com/thedonutdiva)<br />
“I have been in the industry for about 35 years<br />
with jobs varying from server to general manager<br />
to corporate trainer and have always been<br />
an outside-of-the-box kind of gal,” says Spencer.<br />
“When I moved back to Ontario from Alberta<br />
and was looking at what I wanted to do I happened<br />
upon an episode of Dragons’ Den where<br />
a BC entrepreneur was pitching a Waffle Wagon<br />
franchise opportunity. After further investigation<br />
I decided that I could do something like that<br />
myself, and having loved mini-donuts at fairs<br />
out west I decided that was my niche.”<br />
She got her business rolling (literally!)<br />
in 2011. The Donut Diva Mini Donut Food<br />
Truck is equipped with a fryer where Spencer<br />
makes mini-donuts to order and serve them<br />
up warm, sprinkled with whichever sugary
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />
Dee Spencer<br />
topping the customer chooses. “They’re cake<br />
donuts, so they’re light and fluffy,” she says.<br />
Spencer is active in the London Food Truck<br />
Association, and says, “I am very proud of<br />
our Association as we are a group of elite<br />
professionals who believe in celebrating each<br />
other’s successes and working together to<br />
further the Food Truck culture in London.”<br />
Krista Trollope<br />
Owner and Cake Artist, Hey, Cupcake!<br />
Up until 11 years ago Krista Trollope worked<br />
full time in accounting and did baking and<br />
cake decorating as a hobby. “I started making<br />
custom cakes the year that myself and all<br />
my childhood friends reached one of our<br />
milestone birthdays. They all loved them,<br />
and said that I should start selling them,” she<br />
recalls. “I realized that the style of custom<br />
cakes I was creating — one-of-a-kind edible<br />
pieces of art with elaborate design and<br />
detailing — were not what people would<br />
SUNDAY BRUNCH<br />
11am−2pm<br />
Krista Trollope<br />
Open 7 Days a Week<br />
Mon/Tues 11:30-10, Wed/Thurs 11:30-11, Fri/Sat 11:30-12, Sun 11-10
16 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />
walk in to purchase every day. So I decided to<br />
feature cupcakes, and I chose this location (on<br />
Wharncliffe Road) due to the proximity with<br />
Western, where I knew that a lot of students<br />
would be my main walk-in customers.”<br />
“Hey Cupcake was the first gourmet cupcake<br />
bakery in the city. Our slogan is ‘where art is a<br />
piece of cake’, and we still do custom cakes as<br />
well as cupcakes and cookies,” says Trollope.<br />
“In the beginning it was all self-taught, but<br />
now I have studied under many celebrity cake<br />
artists like Ron Ben-Israel, Susan Trianos,<br />
Karen Portelao and James Russell.”<br />
For Trollope, “The best part of my job is that<br />
I am afforded the opportunity to bring a smile<br />
to someone’s face just by using my hands, heart<br />
and artistry.” That includes working with Make-<br />
A-Wish, handing out cupcakes to children,<br />
caregivers and families at LHSC’s annual<br />
World Wish Day event, and her involvement<br />
in the Parkinson’s annual fundraising event<br />
Signatures: A Taste Test of London’s Best.<br />
Shauna Versloot<br />
Chef & Coach/Owner, The Live Well Community<br />
“When I was eight years old my mom was<br />
diagnosed with stage-4 breast cancer. As<br />
an only child I was so scared to lose her. A<br />
doctor said to me ‘Try to be as healthy as you<br />
can so that you don’t get sick someday’ and<br />
I took that to heart. Fitness, nutrition and<br />
healthy cooking became my life,” says Shauna<br />
Versloot, chef, coach and owner of The Live<br />
Well Community.<br />
With education in Fitness and Lifestyle<br />
Management (George Brown College),<br />
Nutrition and Psychology (Western<br />
University), and Culinary Arts (Fanshawe<br />
College), a National Coaching Certification,<br />
and a culinary apprenticeship at the London<br />
Hunt and Country Club, Versloot combined<br />
Shauna Versloot &<br />
daughter Tenley<br />
her passions for fitness and foods to create<br />
Live Well Community, with her husband Dan.<br />
“I realized over the years that the keys<br />
to success were all about balance and living<br />
well,” she says. The Versloots are passionate<br />
about living a healthy lifestyle, and have built<br />
a community of like-minded people who<br />
participate in Live Well’s workouts, cooking<br />
classes and community events. “I feel like life<br />
throws curveballs at us that we can’t control<br />
— like cancer — but we can control our<br />
health and enjoyment of life to some extent.”<br />
Versloot’s first food memories are of<br />
picking vegetables in her grandfather’s<br />
garden and helping her grandmother with<br />
family dinners. “My vegetable garden is still<br />
my biggest hobby to this day and preparing<br />
and sharing a meal with others — which is<br />
basically what we do in our cooking classes —<br />
is one of my favourite things to do.”<br />
KYM WOLFE is freelance writer based in London.<br />
Exceptional Food. Outstanding Service.<br />
Photo by Alieska Robles, alieskarobles.com<br />
NORTH MOORE CATERING LTD THE RIVER ROOM CAFÉ & PRIVATE DINING<br />
BOOK NOW!<br />
THE RHINO LOUNGE BAKERY | COFFEE SHOPPE<br />
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and Mother’s Day Brunch (May 14)<br />
www.northmoore.ca | www.theriverroom.ca<br />
519.850.2287 River Room | 519.850.5111 NMC /Rhino Lounge
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />
<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 17
18 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />
Restaurants<br />
A Delicious Destination<br />
The Village Teapot, in Ilderton<br />
By JANE ANTONIAK | Photos by BRUCE FYFE<br />
The<br />
millennial<br />
tea trend<br />
meets<br />
British pub food in<br />
an historic Ontario<br />
village house in<br />
Ilderton with the<br />
arrival of The Village<br />
Teapot. Add a splash<br />
of craft beer, wine and<br />
the occasional roast<br />
supper inside a cozy two-room parlour and<br />
you have the makings of a relaxing experience.<br />
The venture is the result of a new business<br />
partnership between two self-declared “moms”,<br />
Gaynor Deeks and Jana Yassine. They met<br />
through their children, who attended the same<br />
Oakridge neighbourhood school in London,<br />
developed a friendship and discovered they<br />
both had a passion for cooking. Deeks had<br />
operated a home daycare while Yassine was a<br />
full-time stay-at-home parent after managing a<br />
London hotel. Both had some customer service<br />
background and so when Deeks’s employment<br />
was winding down, they decided that the years<br />
of talking about opening a restaurant was ready<br />
to go to the next level.<br />
In early spring of 2017 they assumed the<br />
lease on an empty restaurant in an 1800s<br />
building in Ilderton<br />
after “falling in love<br />
with the house” says<br />
Deeks. Their families<br />
pitched in to help<br />
renovate the space,<br />
adding an accent of<br />
red throughout, with<br />
seating for 32. The<br />
hardwood floors and<br />
simple tables provide a<br />
cheery atmosphere.<br />
The Village Teapot<br />
opened in June 2017<br />
and the new business<br />
owners say they<br />
quickly learned their<br />
first hard lesson. “Get<br />
your feet wet first<br />
and learn the ropes of<br />
your business before<br />
your grand opening,”<br />
says Yassine. Deeks<br />
nods enthusiastically<br />
in agreement. “Do a<br />
soft opening,” is her<br />
advice to other first-time restaurant owners.<br />
However, neither have any regrets despite the<br />
exhaustion of serving 90 people in the first few<br />
hours of opening their doors. “I would just say<br />
go for it,” says Yassine. “We could have sat back<br />
with many reasons why we shouldn’t do it but<br />
we jumped in. We are confident we have a good<br />
product and, as they say, if you build it they will<br />
come,” she adds.<br />
They humbly describe their food as “honest<br />
and simple” but it is far more delightful then<br />
they give themselves credit for. Their signature<br />
scones are light and airy, served warm in several<br />
flavours: cheddar chive, raisin, cranberry<br />
lemon and plain. These are high quality, flavourful<br />
biscuit-like cakes that can be ordered<br />
on their own or as part of a Cream Tea service<br />
which includes clotted cream and preserves.<br />
The scones are also<br />
served alongside<br />
homemade soups, and<br />
sold for take-away by<br />
the dozen.<br />
Cornish pasty are<br />
also house-made.<br />
These famous British<br />
“all in one meal”<br />
pastry pockets are<br />
stuffed with a variety<br />
of fillings including<br />
ground beef with<br />
vegetables; spinach
<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 19<br />
and feta; sausage, scrambled egg, cheese and mushroom;<br />
and a vegetarian version that includes leeks, potatoes and<br />
seasonings in a creamy sauce.<br />
Another traditional British staple, the simple yet satisfying<br />
sausage roll, is a popular menu item which is also available for<br />
take-away. The duo also sell their sausage rolls and scones at<br />
the Ilderton Farmer’s Market in season. They are busy outside<br />
of the teahouse hours with catering.<br />
A traditional tea triple platter and a ploughman’s lunch is<br />
a lovely way to experience the Teapot’s yummy slow-roasted<br />
ham sandwiches alongside devilled egg, artisan cheeses<br />
with chutney, pickled onion, veggies with dip and desserts<br />
including Shaw’s Ice Cream, butter tarts, cookies and more.<br />
No afternoon tea is complete without a wide choice of<br />
teas. The Village Teapot offers at least 10 specialty teas in<br />
silk pyramid tea bags to enhance flavor release, served in<br />
individual red pots. “I feel like I’m in a candy store, taking<br />
the teas out of the jars”, says Deeks as she happily fills pots<br />
from the high bar counter. They also offer French press coffee,<br />
local craft beers and wines as well as sodas. Special occasion<br />
seasonal teas are planned for Easter and Mother’s Day. “Tea is<br />
really coming back with the younger age group,” says Yassine.<br />
A roast dinner is offered the first Sunday of the month. Past<br />
dinners have featured a traditional roast beef, lamb, and turkey.<br />
Both Deeks and Yassine share the cooking and front of<br />
house service roles with help from one staff member. This past<br />
year they had the honour of hosting CBC London Morning for<br />
a live remote broadcast. As well, they have put on a fashion<br />
show, bridal showers and hosted the popular Red Hat Society.<br />
Now, after almost a year in business, the women say what<br />
they enjoy most is the friendships they have made with<br />
customers, and being their own bosses. Their other advice to<br />
new business partners? “Make sure you really like each other,”<br />
says Yassine with a laugh. It is clear these two are successfully<br />
managing friendship with entrepreneurship while providing a<br />
delicious new destination.<br />
The Village Teapot<br />
13257 Ilderton Road, Ilderton<br />
519-298-TEAS (8327)<br />
villageteapot@gmail.com • www.thevillageteapot.ca<br />
wednesday to thursday: 10:30 am–3:30 pm<br />
friday: 10:30 am–7:30 pm<br />
saturday and sunday: 10 am–2 pm<br />
closed monday and tuesday<br />
JANE ANTONIAK is a regular contributor to <strong>Eatdrink</strong> and Communications<br />
Manager at King’s University College.<br />
BRUCE FYFE is a frequent photographer for <strong>Eatdrink</strong> and Head, User<br />
Experience & User Services, Western Libraries for Western University.<br />
TOP: Gaynor Deeks and Jana Yassine behind the counter at<br />
The Village Teapot in Ilderton.<br />
MIDDLE: The Ploughman’s Lunch: slow-roasted ham, artisan<br />
cheeses, pickled onion, crusty bread, fresh fruit.<br />
BOTTOM: Shaw’s ice cream served in a vintage teacup.
20 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />
Spotlight<br />
Stratford Women in Food (<strong>2019</strong>)<br />
Seven Sisters with a Seat at the Table<br />
By BRYAN LAVERY<br />
S<br />
tratford has no<br />
shortage of outstanding<br />
women<br />
who have made<br />
inroads into a milieu that<br />
has been traditionally maledominated.<br />
Many Stratford<br />
women come to their<br />
professions, in part, with<br />
dedication to improving<br />
the world through access<br />
to food. The following list<br />
of culinary stalwarts is just<br />
the tip of the iceberg.<br />
Anne Campion<br />
Anne Campion<br />
Owner & Barista, revel<br />
Anne Campion is committed to the core values<br />
of social justice by procuring and serving<br />
ethically and sustainably produced direct<br />
trade coffee. She can be seen pulling espresso<br />
shots or making consistently perfect cortados<br />
at revel, her busy coffee shop off Stratford’s<br />
Market Square. Behind the scene, she’s<br />
ensuring that her business is modelling all<br />
aspects of the ethical culinary conversation.<br />
“Our desire to be for the<br />
good of our community,<br />
both locally and globally,<br />
informs all our decisions,”<br />
says Campion.<br />
Launched with the<br />
assistance of just two staff<br />
people, Campion now<br />
employs 18. In addition to<br />
baristas and front of house<br />
staff, two pastry chefs now<br />
bake all of Revel’s pastries<br />
in house, using products<br />
from many local farmers.<br />
A formative coffee relationship<br />
with Las Chicas<br />
Dee Christensen<br />
del Cafe (read about the<br />
sisters behind this business<br />
in our “Elgin Women in Food”<br />
story in this issue), who developed<br />
signature Nicaraguan<br />
blends for revel, continues,<br />
while a new association with<br />
transcend coffee + roastery<br />
in Edmonton, AB (founded in<br />
2006 by Poul Mark) is opening<br />
doors for new growth.<br />
Working with transcend’s<br />
green buyer, Josh Hockin,<br />
and an all-female roasting<br />
team led by Kate Sortland has<br />
allowed an expansion of revel’s<br />
exclusive coffee offerings. In<br />
the fall of 2018, Don Moncho<br />
from Costa Rica was featured. This winter,<br />
Rudy Perez from Guatemala was introduced.<br />
There will soon be another new coffee from<br />
Costa Rica, and Campion is especially excited<br />
about bringing in an exclusive coffee from<br />
Ethiopia later this spring.<br />
Building direct trade relationships with<br />
coffee growers through her partnerships with<br />
Las Chicas del Cafe and transcend coffee, and<br />
joining forces with other<br />
businesses to support local<br />
community initiatives, is as<br />
fundamental to Campion’s<br />
business as ensuring the<br />
proper brew and pour of the<br />
next great cup of coffee at<br />
revel.<br />
Dee Christensen<br />
Owner, The Planet Diner<br />
Restaurateur Dee Christensen<br />
is a writer, social advocate<br />
and the former owner/editorin-chief<br />
of Recovery Wire<br />
Magazine, a leading addiction<br />
magazine. Christensen used
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />
her life experience as well as an academic<br />
background in Criminology and Social Work<br />
to establish the common interest publication.<br />
Fortified with hospitality experience and a<br />
background that includes experience as a<br />
financial manager for the field of commercial<br />
design and a Commercial Investment Analyst,<br />
Christensen conceptualized and opened The<br />
Planet Diner in 2018. With red metal flake<br />
upholstered booths and a 1950s vibe, the<br />
26-seat carnivore-friendly vegan diner with a<br />
14-seat seasonal patio is warm and welcoming<br />
with enthusiastic and well-informed staff.<br />
Christensen says, “This is where herbivores can<br />
bring their carnivore friends.” Most items on<br />
the menu are derived from plant-based foods<br />
with a few meat-based options. The fledgling<br />
diner has been a success since it opened.<br />
Michelle Hern<br />
Owner, Olive Your Favourites<br />
Michelle Hern became an entrepreneur later in<br />
life after already having had a successful career.<br />
Nearly a decade ago, while visiting her sister<br />
in Traverse City, Michigan, Hern discovered<br />
an upscale speciality shop offering unique<br />
and exceptional quality extra virgin olive<br />
oils (EVOO) sourced from around the world.<br />
Customers were invited to taste oils before<br />
purchasing from stainless containers called<br />
fustis. On subsequent visits, she would sample<br />
and purchase oils and vinegars that she offered<br />
to her friends and colleagues to taste. In the<br />
spring of 2011 while eating a salad prepared<br />
with the oils and vinegars she had purchased,<br />
she noticed the supplier’s contact information<br />
on the bottle and decided to contact them.<br />
Hern ended up talking to the CEO of the<br />
company and made pages of notes. Looking<br />
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Michelle Hern<br />
519-229-6856<br />
info@stonetowncheese.com<br />
www.stonetowncheese.com
22 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />
for an entrepreneurial opportunity she began<br />
a laborious mission to find a perfect location<br />
for a store. With equal parts determination<br />
and passion she found the optimal location on<br />
York Street facing the Avon River to showcase<br />
her products. Olive Your Favourites carries<br />
dozens of types of EVOO, some infused<br />
with pure fruits and herbs, as well as dark<br />
and white balsamic vinegars. The latter are<br />
also pure products and made from grapes<br />
in Modena, Italy. Hern’s knowledgeable and<br />
down-to-earth approach and the ability to<br />
hire friendly, intelligent and well-versed<br />
sales personnel have led the business to<br />
tremendous success.<br />
Buffy Illingworth<br />
Owner, Edison Café Bar<br />
Buffy Illingworth’s mother Gail, an early<br />
advocate for vegetarianism and plant-based<br />
cuisine, graduated from Stratford Chef<br />
School’s in 1986. Gail held many respected<br />
chef positions in area restaurants before her<br />
passing in 2005. It was a love she passed on<br />
to her daughter. “Her passion for the culinary<br />
arts and expertise in food styling continues to<br />
inspire me,” says Illingworth.<br />
The sophisticated and cozy Edison Café<br />
Bar opened in October 2016 after months<br />
of renovations by Illingworth and her<br />
husband Greg Kuepfer. “I pulled from all my<br />
passions when creating Edison Café Bar,” says<br />
Illingworth who envisioned a whole foods<br />
café with a menu focused on clean eating.<br />
The result is innovative, compact and stylish,<br />
where patrons can feel good about what they<br />
are eating and drinking.<br />
Although Illingworth and Kuepfer can<br />
both boast a long relationship with food,<br />
it was Illingworth’s background in Design<br />
and Holistic Nutrition that inspired them<br />
Buffy Illingworth<br />
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />
to open Edison’s. Illingworth took her time<br />
researching cafés, sourcing the best suppliers<br />
and creating the sophisticated interior.<br />
Born and raised in Stratford, Illingworth<br />
is no stranger to business. With a formal<br />
education in Horticulture and Garden Design,<br />
she operated her own thriving flower shop,<br />
designing floral arrangements for hundreds<br />
of weddings and events. The couple’s children<br />
all have played an integral role in helping to<br />
shape the family business. “We keep hours<br />
that reflect a well-balanced work week and<br />
allow us to be home for dinner with them<br />
every night,” says Illingworth.<br />
Eleanor Kane<br />
Co-founder, Stratford Chefs School<br />
Eleanor Kane is Ontario’s equivalent of<br />
American culinary icon Alice Waters, a<br />
comparison and opinion that is rooted in<br />
watching her numerous achievements over<br />
a 35-year period. In what began in 1977 as a<br />
“self-directed sabbatical from work,” Kane<br />
and business<br />
partner Marion<br />
Isherwood<br />
opened The Old<br />
Prune (then a<br />
tea room) in<br />
Stratford, which<br />
led to successful<br />
careers as<br />
restaurateurs.<br />
Later, with<br />
James Morris<br />
of Rundles<br />
Restaurant,<br />
Kane co-founded<br />
the Stratford<br />
Chefs School, an<br />
enterprise that<br />
evolved into<br />
Eleanor Kane<br />
a widely recognized pioneering restaurantfocused<br />
training program.<br />
A University of Alberta graduate (Masters<br />
of Science, Psychology), Kane also brought<br />
decades of restaurant experience as well<br />
as human resources skills to her work<br />
at Stratford Chefs School. A recipient of<br />
numerous accolades and awards, Kane<br />
remains in an advisory capacity on the<br />
Board. Recent Stratford Chef School’s<br />
International Guest Chef in Residence, Ryan<br />
Brown, described his immense respect for<br />
Kane, with her elegance, strong presence,<br />
and love for all things relating to gastronomy.
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />
Carole Rowe<br />
Carole Rowe<br />
Owner, Watson’s Chelsea Bazaar<br />
Watson’s Chelsea Bazaar is a long-standing<br />
Stratford establishment, well known and<br />
loved by many for its quirky mix of housewares<br />
and<br />
gifts. It<br />
provides a<br />
unique shopping<br />
experience<br />
and is<br />
friendly and<br />
inviting. As<br />
a “bazaar” it<br />
has a little bit<br />
of everything,<br />
from useful<br />
kitchenware<br />
and European<br />
imported<br />
ceramics to<br />
glassware and<br />
unusual finds<br />
for your home. The proprietor of the shop is<br />
Carole Rowe, the fourth generation of this<br />
family business.<br />
Started by Carole’s great grandfather in<br />
1895, when he decided to leave undertaking<br />
and embrace retail, the business has evolved<br />
and taken some twists and turns over the<br />
years. Today Rowe, along with dedicated staff<br />
and family, works hard to bring it all together.<br />
“We are aware, in this day and age, everything<br />
can be bought online for the lowest price and<br />
maximum convenience… Everything except<br />
a unique experience,” says Rowe. “We try to<br />
keep the essence of the store what it has always<br />
been: old fashioned, in the best kind of way,<br />
and always interesting.”<br />
Rowe fondly remembers her dad, David<br />
Bradshaw, always saying, “It’s a fun business,”<br />
and for the most part, it has been. “I think my<br />
great grandfather would be very pleased to<br />
know that, almost 125 years later, the business<br />
is still going strong and still fun,” says Rowe.<br />
Shelley Windsor<br />
Vice-President, Windsor Hospitality Inc.<br />
Shelley Windsor is the Vice President Windsor<br />
Hospitality Inc., co-owner of Mercer Kitchen/<br />
Beer Hall /Hotel, The Prune Restaurant & Bar<br />
One-Fifty-One as well as York Street Kitchen.<br />
Windsor is the former owner of Best Western<br />
The Parlour Historic Inn & Suites and owner/<br />
director of Best Western London Airport Inn<br />
Continued on page 26 ...<br />
Trust...<br />
Taste...<br />
Quality...<br />
At Metzger’s,<br />
we follow Old World<br />
recipes to create healthy and<br />
wholesome foods. We hand select<br />
dry aged Ontario Prime and AAA<br />
Beef and offer superior local Pork,<br />
Poultry and Lamb. We are especially<br />
proud of our own handcrafted<br />
artisan-style meats and salamis. We<br />
are confident that you will taste the<br />
Metzger Meats difference.<br />
Open six days a week.<br />
Hensall, Ontario<br />
Just off Hwy 4,<br />
45 minutes north of London.<br />
www.metzgermeats.com<br />
519-262-3130<br />
Available in London at<br />
The Village Meat Shop<br />
at Western Fair Farmers’ Market<br />
on Saturdays!<br />
Local Beef • Pork • Lamb • Poultry<br />
Specialty European Meat Products
Stratford is<br />
more than<br />
great theatre<br />
visitstratford.ca<br />
um<br />
A restaurant inspired by<br />
local ingredients.<br />
Run by workers.<br />
Owned by workers.<br />
Shared by the Community.<br />
Open Thursday through Monday<br />
Reservations Recommended<br />
64 Wellington St, Stratford<br />
redrabbitresto.com<br />
519.305.6464<br />
@redrabbitresto<br />
global tapas with local ingredients<br />
fresh cocktails<br />
Perfect for dinner, drinks and long conversations<br />
Thursday through Sunday from 5pm<br />
85 Downie St, Stratford<br />
(next to Avon Theatre)<br />
519.305.8585<br />
85Downie.com<br />
REGISTER<br />
NOW<br />
<strong>2019</strong> SEASON | Join us for hands-on<br />
cooking classes and learning<br />
experiences devoted to dedicated<br />
home cooks and food-lovers.<br />
OVER 120 CLASSES | Classes average<br />
3 hours in length and are offered<br />
year round at a variety of skill levels<br />
and price ranges. Class details and<br />
registration on our website.<br />
stratfordchef.com
“A fun place to shop<br />
for housewares and gifts!”<br />
Live Vivid<br />
with vibrant colours and patterns<br />
French Bull melamine tableware<br />
WATSON’S<br />
CHELSEA BAZAAR<br />
84 Ontario St. Stratford<br />
watsonsofstratford.com<br />
519-273-1790
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />
Shelley Windsor<br />
Continued from page 23 ...<br />
and Suites. Having worked in just about every<br />
operational position in a hotel, some of her<br />
past positions have included Sales and Catering<br />
Manager, Director of Human Resource<br />
Services, Director of Sales, front desk clerk<br />
and bed & breakfast owner/operator.<br />
Windsor is also known for her community<br />
involvement on volunteer boards and<br />
committees, which have included the Stratford<br />
Tourism Alliance, Stratford and District<br />
Chamber of Commerce, Stratford Hockey<br />
Club, and, as a Marketing Chair, Best Western<br />
Ontario Quebec Co-op. Her philosophy of<br />
giving back to the community where you<br />
live and work has paid off by the support of<br />
locals in many of the Windsor Hospitality’s<br />
endeavours. Windsor’s day-to-day routine<br />
includes being involved in the short and long<br />
term planning of all of Windsor Hospitality<br />
businesses, research and development for<br />
new projects, human resources, customer<br />
services and public relations, sales marketing<br />
and social media. Windsor also specializes<br />
in re-positioning restaurants to achieve a<br />
healthier bottom line. Involved in hospitality<br />
and food and beverage consulting for other<br />
restaurants needing assistance, Windsor likes<br />
to mentor other women in business.<br />
<strong>Eatdrink</strong> Food Editor and Writer at Large BRYAN<br />
LAVERY brings years of experience in the restaurant,<br />
hospitality and tourism industry as a chef, restaurateur<br />
and partner at the Lavery Culinary Group. He helps shape<br />
<strong>Eatdrink</strong> both under his byline and behind the scenes.
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />
<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 27<br />
Spotlight<br />
Elgin Women in Food (<strong>2019</strong>)<br />
Six Women Leading the Way<br />
As Told to TANYA CHOPP<br />
We interviewed six visionary Elgin<br />
County business owners on what<br />
it’s like to be running creative<br />
and challenging operations<br />
in food, hospitality and agriculture. We also<br />
asked them to describe women in business.<br />
While no two answers were exactly the same,<br />
there were some definite themes: Women in<br />
business have to be as resilient as they are<br />
driven, as passionate as they are nurturing<br />
and creative. Together, these women represent<br />
over a century of combined experience in food,<br />
hospitality and farming. Every business is more<br />
than a decade old, while some are nearing 40 or<br />
50 years of operation.<br />
Maria Fiallos and Val Fiallos-<br />
Soliman<br />
Las Chicas Del Cafe, St. Thomas<br />
Women in business, in three words:<br />
“Passionate. Brave. Challenging.”<br />
Val: When it comes to our business, what<br />
lights my fire is knowing that failing is<br />
not an option. We know how many people<br />
depend on the business continuing. It’s<br />
very close to us, from the relationships we<br />
have to the small coffee growers that we<br />
buy from, to seeing our grandfather and our<br />
dad go through being coffee growers as well.<br />
We’re so linked to their struggle.<br />
Maria: For me, roasting is a mixture of<br />
science and art. On the science side, there’s<br />
the chemical changes that happen in the<br />
coffee bean as you’re roasting, including<br />
caramelization, and dehydration. You have<br />
to understand how sugars behave, what<br />
density, temperature and airflow can do<br />
to influence your roast — and every bean,<br />
depending on its origin.<br />
Val: I think for us, one thing that<br />
differentiates us is that not only are we<br />
connected to the origin (part of the coffee<br />
we bring in is from our dad’s farm), it’s also<br />
the approach we take with our customers.<br />
We’re very connected. It’s all personal.<br />
This past harvest was a real challenge. We<br />
didn’t finish receiving the harvest until<br />
mid-November. However, having those<br />
tight relationships with our coffee partners<br />
was truly valuable. They were really<br />
understanding, knowing that what going on<br />
was beyond our control, but the quality of<br />
the beans was still very important.<br />
Maria: Personally, without sounding kind of<br />
cheesy or cliché, what I do really doesn’t feel<br />
like work, because there’s a greater purpose<br />
to our day than simply getting coffee orders<br />
out. Each day I’m thinking about the bigger<br />
picture: how we do justice to the coffee<br />
we’re roasting and make sure it’ll land in a<br />
place where it’ll be appreciated. And I don’t<br />
just mean that we want someone to think<br />
it’s delicious, we also want customers to feel<br />
Sisters Maria Fiallos, left,<br />
and Val Fiallos-Soliman
28 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />
that connection and that they’re proud to<br />
have our coffee in their establishment.<br />
Running your own business, being selfemployed,<br />
is probably the most stressful.<br />
Your everyday challenges can range<br />
from big to absolutely terrifying. But,<br />
when there’s a bigger picture — like Val<br />
mentioned — there’s no option for us to<br />
say that it just won’t work. So we’re always<br />
focused on how we can get over the next<br />
hump. I don’t get hung up on those small<br />
everyday challenges because they’re really<br />
just a small step to get onto bigger steps of<br />
running a business.<br />
Maria: When it comes to the impact we<br />
hope to make, an important aspect of<br />
the business for us is that we help foster<br />
awareness. Sometimes, for people spending<br />
$15 to $20 on a pound of coffee, it can seem<br />
like a luxury item, but when you bring<br />
forth everything that’s involved in that<br />
pound of coffee and the repercussions,<br />
from where it’s produced, to how baristas<br />
are being paid, to how families who are<br />
working on plantations can benefit from a<br />
good market price, you can see how it’s a<br />
win-win situation. Awareness offers a segue<br />
into really caring more about the products<br />
we consume in general, whether it’s meat<br />
products, leather, food, coffee or more.<br />
Val: We have a direct relationship with our<br />
retailers and aim to be connected to our<br />
consumers. So for us, it all comes down to<br />
helping people to take that coffee home<br />
and be absolutely in love with what they’re<br />
tasting. That’s how we’ve been able to<br />
really grow. We don’t have the finances and<br />
resources and big marketing campaigns or<br />
fancy packaging, but we’ve really focused<br />
on offering quality coffee.<br />
Kim Saunders<br />
The Windjammer Inn, Port Stanley<br />
Women in business, in three words: “Resilient.<br />
Persistent. Nurturing.”<br />
My work is my passion. I call it a lifestyle, not<br />
a career. I love working with food and drinks,<br />
experimenting, creating, feeding people —<br />
discovering new ingredients, combinations,<br />
exploring authentic recipes, and delving into<br />
the rich culture of food. My work feeds my soul,<br />
my heart, and my mind. It is never the same<br />
day twice, which always keeps it interesting!<br />
I work with a palette of tastes and textures<br />
as well as colours and visuals. Every dish has<br />
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />
Kim Saunders<br />
a little of my heart and soul in it and although<br />
the end results don’t physically last (hopefully<br />
they get eaten!) the memory created is also<br />
part of the art.<br />
I feel whole when working in a kitchen. It<br />
helps to balance and focus me. I love noticing<br />
the nuances of a dish or ingredient as it comes<br />
together, the sounds, smells, tastes and<br />
sight of food and cooking comforts me and<br />
energizes me. I find it truly satisfying at the<br />
end of the day, knowing that I have put my<br />
time and energy into something that affects<br />
those around me in a productive, positive way.<br />
Food links us all through time and space.<br />
Restaurants connect a network of farmers<br />
and suppliers with the guests. We create<br />
experiences and memories that tie us all<br />
together into a larger whole. Food is central<br />
in most cultures to celebrations and comfort.<br />
In times of joy and sorrow, prosperity and<br />
challenge, we gather around the table and<br />
eat. We bring people together, teach and<br />
tempt, satisfy the hunger physically, and often<br />
emotionally ... All in a day’s work!<br />
Brenda Smith<br />
Pinecroft Green Frog Tearoom, Aylmer<br />
Women in business, in three words: “Sincere.<br />
Engaged. Driven.”<br />
We find satisfaction in providing a unique<br />
experience for our customers: from the freshly<br />
prepared menu to the visual experience of the<br />
entire property. Providing good value for their<br />
money, and making sure that our business is a<br />
great place to work for our employees. Since we
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />
are a “public relations service industry,” I strive<br />
to make everyone’s experience the best it can be.<br />
Pinecroft opened in May, 1948 as a pottery<br />
studio, and remains the longest continuously<br />
Brenda Smith<br />
<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 29<br />
make me over zealous about food presentation,<br />
balance, and the ever important first impression<br />
of the food when it arrives at the table.<br />
When I’m at work, I feel empowered,<br />
energized and thankful. Every day, someone<br />
thanks us for what we offer at Pinecroft. From<br />
the moment someone drives in the laneway,<br />
they begin to evaluate the business. We<br />
endeavour to make it the best experience, and<br />
one that will bring them back because of our<br />
good service, great food and beautiful scenery.<br />
A complete package.<br />
operating studio in Canada. The tearoom was<br />
opened in 1978 by my mother and I to service<br />
the customers, who, at that time, were making<br />
a long drive out into the country to purchase<br />
our pottery. Both my son and daughter work<br />
with us in the business, with the intention<br />
that they will one day take over the operation.<br />
I love what I do, and I wouldn’t do it if I<br />
didn’t. Pinecroft represents a dream come true<br />
and a special place that, as a family, we are<br />
happy to share with everyone. After toughing<br />
out the first 35 years or so of running<br />
the restaurant, my son now manages the<br />
financial/business side, my daughter oversees<br />
all operations in the kitchen, my husbands<br />
bakes all the fresh bread and rolls and I<br />
continue to fill in where needed as cook, baker<br />
or sometimes server, while I am also filling the<br />
role of resident studio potter.<br />
There is an element to artistry to what I do,<br />
for sure. Being a ceramic artist first tends to<br />
Locally Sourced Ingredients<br />
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Organic Wine by the Glass or Bottle<br />
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Open for Lunch and Dinner<br />
Tuesday through Saturday<br />
www.fatolive.ca<br />
2135 Dorchester Rd., Dorchester<br />
519-268-0001<br />
A Landmark for<br />
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Gallery & Gift Shop<br />
9am–5pm<br />
The Green Frog Tea<br />
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519-773-3435<br />
www.pinecroft.ca
30 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />
Suzanne Steed<br />
Steed & Co. Lavender,Central Elgin<br />
Women in business, in three words: “Creative.<br />
Determined. Confident.”<br />
With a passion for gardening and landscape<br />
design, I developed an agri-tourism business<br />
where we provide visitors with an experience<br />
for the senses. I have developed all of our<br />
handcrafted products as well as our culinary<br />
line of lavender inspired food products. I also<br />
manage the day-to-day operations at our farm.<br />
Operating a farm brings new challenges every<br />
day and there is always something going on. I<br />
enjoy these challenges, even though I sometimes<br />
struggle through the difficult ones. But when<br />
a visitor comes to me and says, “Thank you for<br />
creating a beautiful place to visit,” it makes me<br />
smile and feel very proud of what I do.<br />
There is absolutely an element of artistry<br />
in what I do! I take a lovely, fragrant herb<br />
(lavender) and create many specialty culinary<br />
products. For example using this herb in<br />
our culinary products can be tricky as it can<br />
overpower foods, so I’m always aiming to<br />
achieve a balance that is both interesting and<br />
enjoyable to the palate.<br />
When you’re a business owner, you’re<br />
always thinking about your business. I can’t<br />
describe what it’s like to be in the zone,<br />
because I’m never out of it. I’m always mulling<br />
over different ideas, conducting research and<br />
finding that inspiration comes to me at all<br />
hours, including in the middle of the night.<br />
Recently, I was thinking about our jams and<br />
Suzanne Steed<br />
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />
wondering about what a combination of<br />
lavender and orange would be like. How would<br />
the flavour interact with the citrus notes?<br />
With our culinary products, I create the<br />
recipes, and pass them along to production,<br />
but with our soaps, I’m often creating them<br />
— so I’m in a productive zone then too. Plus,<br />
when I’m out in the community, I find that<br />
my business has become part of my identity. I<br />
was just in the grocery store and had someone<br />
come up to me and ask, “Aren’t you the<br />
lavender lady?” My business is always there.<br />
It becomes a part of who you are, and I’m sure<br />
any business owner could relate.<br />
It always amazes me how people never think<br />
to consider lavender as an edible herb. After<br />
travelling through France, eating at French<br />
restaurants and speaking to many people who<br />
live there, I found that lavender is a popular<br />
ingredient in many dishes — from desserts to<br />
main courses featuring fish and chicken.<br />
Lavender is the same family as mint. If you<br />
look at a lavender spike, it’s square — and<br />
if you look at a mint stem, it’s square also.<br />
We’re familiar with mint’s strong flavour,<br />
and lavender’s strength is similar. However,<br />
lavender has the ability to really enhance<br />
flavours. We have a raspberry-strawberry<br />
preserve, and lavender picks up the raspberry<br />
and helps it pop. It also enhances the flavour<br />
of our dark chocolate, and the vanilla in our ice<br />
cream. It’s remarkable in that way: it enhances<br />
whatever you use it with, but adds a floral note.<br />
I hope that our lavender farm offers visitors<br />
an opportunity to escape from their hectic<br />
lives, to a peaceful rural setting, where they<br />
can stroll amongst the millions of beautiful<br />
lavender flowers from mid-June to mid-July.<br />
I encourage visitors to learn many of the great<br />
attributes this herb has to offer, including;<br />
growing, harvesting and cooking with lavender.<br />
Lauren Vandixhoorn<br />
SoLo on Main, Port Stanley<br />
Women in Business, in three words:<br />
“Empower. Inspire. Talent.”<br />
Knowing that my work in any aspect of the<br />
restaurant will result in a satisfied customer<br />
is what lights my fire. That’s what my work<br />
means to me too, that’s whole point: to make<br />
people happy. The music, the ingredients,<br />
drinks, the staff, decisions I make everyday<br />
are all for the good of the customer. It’s<br />
simple, and that’s what I like.<br />
I also want people to find that when they
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />
<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 31<br />
good, and then try my own version of it. A lot<br />
of chefs are inspired that way — by a dish that<br />
you start tweaking until it becomes yours.<br />
Good times are had at SoLo on Main! We’re<br />
inviting and we’re approachable. It’s just a<br />
chill place to enjoy some delicious, quality<br />
food, listen to awesome music and enjoy the<br />
view. I’ve worked very hard to make it so.<br />
TANYA CHOPP is a local writer and communications<br />
professional who enjoys exploring and writing on topics<br />
related to local food and culture, humour and fitness.<br />
Lauren Vandixhoorn<br />
dine here, there’s incredible value that goes<br />
into the experience they have. I believe that a<br />
restaurant provides more than just a place to<br />
eat — it offers a whole experience.<br />
I always knew that this is what I wanted<br />
to do. I grew up in Port Stanley, and I<br />
remember walking on the docks across from<br />
this restaurant with my friend when I was 15,<br />
talking about what we were going to do when<br />
we were older, and thinking, ”I’m going to own<br />
a restaurant for sure.” I always knew I’d be a<br />
chef. I’m the kind of person who has to be in<br />
charge, and when the opportunity came, I felt<br />
like I was ready and knew I could do it. When<br />
you’re put into a position where you have to<br />
do it, it just happens.<br />
There’s a level of workmanship in creating<br />
a menu, it has a flow, a balance. My menu has<br />
a personal touch that’s part of the vibe. It<br />
largely dictates the style of the restaurant.<br />
I’m inspired by the restaurants that I love<br />
to eat at, and even by social media. I might<br />
see a picture of something, feel like it looks<br />
EASTER<br />
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426 Third Street, London<br />
519-204-8189<br />
c-angelina@rogers.com
32 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />
Spotlight<br />
Sarnia-Lambton/Huron County<br />
Women in Food (<strong>2019</strong>)<br />
Entrepreneurs in Good Taste<br />
As Told to NANCY LOUCKS-McSLOY<br />
Berni Gelinas<br />
Kitchen Widgets, Sarnia<br />
In business since 1995, we are a gourmet<br />
kitchen store, catering to those who love to<br />
cook or want to make cooking easier. From<br />
cookware to bakeware, dinnerware, knives and<br />
widgets “we find the right tools for the right<br />
job.” Many of our products are Canadian-made.<br />
We provide the necessary items for<br />
preparation and serving of food and drink. We<br />
love birthdays, anniversaries, weddings and<br />
“just because” occasions so we also provide a<br />
gift registry.<br />
The fact that we are in our 24th year of<br />
business is very satisfying, but best of all are<br />
the many amazing people we have met during<br />
our journey.<br />
I am not really one to give advice. I feel<br />
that each situation is unique. Different times,<br />
different measures.<br />
We have worked hard during the past several<br />
years doing something we love. We were<br />
honoured to be the CGTA Retailer of the Year.<br />
I say “we” because I could never have done it<br />
without the people around me. You are only as<br />
good as the people you surround yourself with.<br />
Leanne Kavanagh<br />
Shopbike Coffee Roasters, Bayfield<br />
My partners and I dreamed up Shopbike one<br />
cold Bayfield winter, six years ago. We had<br />
a vision of a vibrant Bayfield surrounded by<br />
craft breweries and wineries. We pictured<br />
roasted coffee and a cute café, smack dab in<br />
the middle… so we ordered a coffee roaster,<br />
sourced green coffee beans and taught<br />
ourselves how to roast them.<br />
We have evolved in six years. We team meet at<br />
the end of every season, shave off what didn’t fit<br />
and dream up new ideas for next season.<br />
As an all-season business we have learned<br />
to enjoy the ebb and flow of Bayfield, super<br />
busy in the summer, slower in the winter.<br />
Leanne Kavanagh<br />
We have many local suppliers such as<br />
Ferguson Apiaries and Bayfield Maple Syrup as<br />
well as New Age Port Stanley, Culture Shock and<br />
others. We wholesale to places such as Cowbell<br />
Brewery in Blyth, The Black Dog Pub and Bistro<br />
in Kincardine, and Killer Cupcakes in Guelph.<br />
I develop roasts with our business partner/<br />
roaster Shaun Henry. I am also responsible for<br />
client relations, staffing, café creations, front<br />
of house, deliveries, bill paying, mopping<br />
floors, you name it! As a small business owner,<br />
you take it all on. I am also involved with the<br />
Bayfield and Area Chamber of Commerce as<br />
president 2018/<strong>2019</strong>. In my free time I work<br />
on the promotion of Bayfield as a food and<br />
drink destination for tourism.<br />
I love working with many other businesses,<br />
the unlimited coffee and the freedom to be<br />
creative.<br />
What made the choice easy for me was that I<br />
love coffee. I wanted to learn more, such as how<br />
to roast and how to make drinks. Most of all<br />
when I see someone enjoy something I helped<br />
create, it feels so good. If you love it, do it!<br />
My passions and drive have allowed me a<br />
lovely little life with my friends and daughter<br />
in one of the most beautiful places to live. I<br />
can hear the lake and drink a latte whenever I
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />
want. It is not without dedication and hours<br />
in the day, but it is totally worth it.<br />
Anne Kurtz-Alton<br />
Alton Farms Estate Winery, Plympton-Wyoming<br />
My husband and I own a small vineyard and<br />
winery in Lambton county. In 2005 this city<br />
mouse moved to the country. The following<br />
spring we planted grapes with no experience<br />
or expertise. We began with one acre and by<br />
2013, with 6 acres behind us, we obtained<br />
our winery retail licence from the LCBO and<br />
<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 33<br />
opened the winery. To this day the planting,<br />
pruning, tying and picking is all done by hand.<br />
At harvest time we press the grapes through<br />
an Italian grape press, sometimes as much as<br />
20 tons in a season. When the wine is finished<br />
it is gravity fed into the bottles. The corks and<br />
labels are done singly.<br />
Along with the manufacturing of the wine, we<br />
sell our wine in our retail store and tasting bar as<br />
well as at LCBO stores and farmer’s markets.<br />
Most satisfying about the business? Naturally,<br />
the wine, the end product! Watching<br />
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Our new drink trail allows you to sip<br />
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Dark Horse Estate Winery<br />
Twin Pines Orchards<br />
& Cider House<br />
Widder Station Golf,<br />
Stonepicker Grill & Brewing Tap House Co.<br />
Refined Fool (2 locations)<br />
Stonepicker Brewing Co.<br />
Widder Station Golf, Grill & Tap House<br />
Munro Honey & Meadery<br />
Twin Pines Orchards & Cider House<br />
Alton Farms Estate Winery<br />
Dark Horse Estate Winery<br />
Wave Limousines & Tours<br />
Download the trail map at<br />
www.ontbluecoast.com<br />
1 800 265 0316<br />
Forest Glen Herb Farm<br />
Anne Kurtz-Alton<br />
people as they taste the wines, telling them<br />
our story and teaching them basic wine facts<br />
is very rewarding.<br />
Getting into the wine industry, especially,<br />
requires a lot of knowledge and skill. I had<br />
neither so it must be a passion. There are many<br />
different aspects to Ontario’s wine industry, all<br />
of which are equally challenging to both sexes.<br />
As a mother of five, my focus until 2005<br />
was my family. Since then I have learned<br />
many skills! Driving a tractor with no breaks,<br />
working heavy equipment, viticulture, wine<br />
making, marketing, accounting and retail, to<br />
name a few. I became a farmer.<br />
When I look back, I would have never<br />
dreamed of my husband Marc and I owning<br />
and running a winery and vineyard.<br />
Caitlin Vail<br />
Cait’s Café, Goderich<br />
Cait’s Café is a coffee shop in downtown<br />
Goderich specializing in European pastry and<br />
espresso beverages. We offer a full lunch menu<br />
of deli sandwiches, soups, salads and a variety<br />
of house-made treats such as muffins, cookies<br />
and squares.<br />
I am the owner/operator along with my<br />
husband Spencer. One of my major roles is<br />
to produce the baked goods. You will also<br />
find me scheduling employees, making<br />
espresso, clearing tables, washing dishes,<br />
ordering from local farmers and responding<br />
to catering inquiries.<br />
There are three things that are very satisfying<br />
about this business. Seeing how happy our
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />
customers are. We have many regulars and the<br />
community support has been incredible. They<br />
love our place. With no family nearby for either<br />
of us, the community is our family.<br />
Working with local farmers and producers<br />
has been an honour for us. Knowing that<br />
our produce, eggs, cheese, coffee beans, etc.<br />
come from high quality sources is what sets<br />
us apart. We love the idea that when someone<br />
supports our business, they are supporting a<br />
string of other local businesses and producers.<br />
Lastly, seeing our staff strive and enjoy<br />
their working environment is very satisfying.<br />
Hearing them laugh and enjoy themselves<br />
is music to my ears. They work hard, so it is<br />
important to know they are also finding joy in<br />
what they do.<br />
While your passion can take you places, it<br />
is the hard work and perseverance that will<br />
take you all the way. You must be physically<br />
and mentally prepared, knowing that there<br />
is a lot of stress and long hours. If you have<br />
a strong work ethic, you can go far. Set<br />
measurable goals both long and short term,<br />
to keep you on track and to keep the business<br />
growing and exciting.<br />
I just became a mom to our beautiful<br />
daughter, Gabrielle. I joked with my husband<br />
that if you can start your own food and beverage<br />
business, you can do anything. I wasn’t quite<br />
prepared for motherhood, but it is rewarding.<br />
The community loves seeing her at the café.<br />
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Caitlin Vail
36 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />
Melissa White<br />
Soups Up!/Sticky Fingers, Sarnia<br />
Upon graduating from college, I wanted<br />
my own business. I created a business plan<br />
and opened Sticky Fingers in 2003. I started<br />
off small, as my belief is to grow when you<br />
know what sells. In 2010 I took over the unit<br />
beside Sticky Fingers and prepared to open<br />
Soups Up! The day that it was to open I was<br />
hospitalized. That same day a woman drove<br />
into our newly renovated building. We opened<br />
after rebuilding in December 2010. We have<br />
“Where Everyone Knows<br />
You’re Game”<br />
Year Round Restaurant & Bar<br />
Using the Best of Local Ingredients<br />
from Neighbouring Producers<br />
72538 Hwy. 21, Zurich ON<br />
519-236-4030<br />
whitesquirrelgolfclub.com<br />
Melissa White<br />
since moved to 1143 Confederation Street, are<br />
busier than ever, and planning an expansion.<br />
We provide a large selection of homemade<br />
soups, kaisers and cinnaminis to our walk-in<br />
customers and through on-line ordering. We<br />
also have a catering business.<br />
From day one I have played a key role in<br />
all aspects of the café, from business plans to<br />
mopping floors as well as the catering business.<br />
Being my own boss and being creative are<br />
satisfying. Fighting for every dollar I make, I<br />
appreciate it more.<br />
Many times, I wanted to give up! People<br />
doubt you, so be tough and persevere. I am<br />
a people pleaser which is an advantage and<br />
a disadvantage. It upsets me when someone<br />
isn’t happy, but it has made me stronger and<br />
the business better by improving our ways.<br />
I have been nominated for and won several<br />
awards for “Young Entrepreneur of the Year”<br />
and “Outstanding Business of the Year”.<br />
Thank you to family, staff and customers.<br />
NANCY LOUCKS-MCSLOY is a freelance writer who<br />
loves cooking and entertaining. Her work has appeared in<br />
<strong>Eatdrink</strong> and many other publications.<br />
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Beer<br />
If You Love It, Do It<br />
Women in Beer<br />
by GEORGE MACKE<br />
<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 37<br />
First, there was water and grain. In<br />
the kitchens of ancient Egypt and<br />
Iraq, women knew exactly what to do.<br />
Make beer.<br />
A lot has changed in the 4,000 years since,<br />
but thanks to the craft beer revolution we’ve<br />
come full circle on at least one thing. Women<br />
in beer no longer means sexualization in<br />
advertising. It means brewing, bottling, and<br />
innovative marketing.<br />
Diana Salazar, head brewer at Forked<br />
River Brewing in London since 2015, took an<br />
international route. When the bartending<br />
classes she was taking in her native Colombia<br />
led to a microbrewery tour, she became<br />
focused on getting involved beyond serving.<br />
Salazar started searching for post-secondary<br />
brewing programs and landed at Niagara<br />
College.<br />
While her graduating year creation at<br />
Niagara was a wheat beer flavoured with<br />
tamarillo, Salazar’s personal taste in beer<br />
shifts frequently and now centres on IPAs<br />
instead of Scottish ales.<br />
“Women drink everything,” she said.<br />
That’s true, but differences are noted at<br />
craft beer festivals, often a person’s first<br />
experience with sampling the plethora of craft<br />
beers available. A man is more likely to ask<br />
to try a craft beer “like the big beer I’ve been<br />
drinking” while a woman might spy a fruit<br />
beer and start exploring from there.<br />
“It has more to do with beer knowledge<br />
than gender,” said Emily Ramsey, who works<br />
in post-fermentation (the position is called<br />
“cellarman” in some breweries) at Forked<br />
River.<br />
Ramsey, who learned on the job at Great<br />
Lakes Brewery in Toronto, said the image of<br />
craft breweries being workplaces for young,<br />
white males has changed a lot, thanks to<br />
groups and advocates such as the Society of<br />
Beer Drinking Ladies, the Pink Boots Society,<br />
and Queen of Craft. And Salazar notes<br />
Niagara College’s brewing program reserves<br />
three spots per semester for women.<br />
Craft brewery taprooms are not your<br />
grandmother’s ladies and escorts rooms.<br />
They’re community centres, with everything<br />
from beer yoga classes at Anderson Craft Ales<br />
in London to paint nights, trivia contests, and<br />
board games at various breweries.<br />
At Black Swan Brewing in Stratford,<br />
retail, brewery and social media assistant<br />
Post-fermentation worker Emily Ramsey, left, and<br />
head brewer Diana Salazar of Forked River Brewing in<br />
London are among the women playing key roles in the<br />
craft beer industry.
38 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />
Meghan Landers is an assistant with retail, brewing and<br />
social media at Stratford’s Black Swan Brewing. “Even<br />
though you will face adversity, don’t let it stop you.”<br />
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />
Meghan Landers said women enjoy pairing<br />
conversation with a new craft beer discovery<br />
or standby favourite.<br />
“I think the best thing about drinking in a<br />
brewery as a woman is when other women are<br />
there,” she said. “We go through a lot of the<br />
same experiences, so knowing other women<br />
are there is always comforting. If you see me<br />
behind the bar, you know I got you!”<br />
She also has a go-for-it attitude when it<br />
comes to landing a job in craft brewing.<br />
“As simple as it sounds, I would say if you<br />
love it, do it. Your passion and knowledge will<br />
always stand and even though you will face<br />
adversity, don’t let it stop you.”<br />
Aynsley Anderson of Anderson Craft Ales in<br />
London agreed.<br />
“All of our jobs can be done by any gender,”<br />
she said. “There are obviously role-specific<br />
qualifications, but otherwise the common<br />
thread is a person that is dedicated and<br />
genuinely interested in furthering the local,<br />
independent beer movement.”<br />
Gender neutrality extends to marketing and<br />
to a taproom drinking environment that’s more<br />
like a living room than an old school beer hall.
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />
<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 39<br />
“We don’t market specifically to any<br />
gender,” she said. “We market to people<br />
that are interested in a quality product<br />
and who want to enjoy it in a friendly and<br />
welcoming environment. Our aim is to<br />
foster an environment where people feel<br />
welcome chatting with our staff and family or<br />
alternately enjoying a quiet beer with friends,<br />
family, solo, etc. No pressure.”<br />
Still, there have been flashpoints with some<br />
craft breweries and their questionable choices<br />
of names for their beers — sexist names<br />
or labels which could cost breweries female<br />
customers.<br />
“All industries should be striving to market<br />
their product in a way that doesn’t offend<br />
people’s basic human rights,” Anderson said.<br />
“So, hopefully breweries will step up to think<br />
of more creative marketing techniques than<br />
the Mad Men or shock value approach.”<br />
GEORGE MACKE is a Southwestern Ontario craft beer<br />
explorer who spends too much time at the LCBO and craft<br />
breweries.<br />
Aynsley Anderson, a co-owner at Anderson Craft Ales in<br />
London, has the role of overseeing “big picture” social<br />
media, marketing and facilities plans. Above, she checks<br />
on the brewery’s products at the LCBO.<br />
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40 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />
Wine<br />
Remembering Michèle Bosc<br />
A Champion of Ontario Wine<br />
by GARY KILLOPS<br />
On January 10, the shocking news spread<br />
quickly via social media that Michèle Bosc<br />
had passed away following chemotherapy<br />
treatments after cancer surgery. She was a<br />
well-known figure in Ontario’s wine industry. The Bosc<br />
family own and operate Château des Charmes winery in<br />
Niagara-on-the-Lake. Michèle was VP of marketing and<br />
administration.<br />
Michèle Bosc was responsible for staff training<br />
and development, trade relations, advertising and<br />
marketing, as well as the guest experience and<br />
hospitality programs at the winery. She was also<br />
the winery representative on various marketing and<br />
tourism committees in the region.<br />
An engaging and passionate social marketer for the<br />
family’s winery, her last tweet was on New Year’s Eve.<br />
“Thank you for sharing all of the ways that you enjoyed<br />
our wines over the holiday season — it is truly the best<br />
gift that we could receive. Cheers to <strong>2019</strong>!”<br />
As word quickly spread, heartfelt messages of<br />
condolence, including these, were posted on the<br />
Château des Charmes Facebook page.<br />
“Our i4C family would like to share our profound<br />
sympathy with the Boscs, Michèle’s family and<br />
everyone at Château des Charmes. We are stunned and<br />
we grieve. And we also honour Michèle’s incredible<br />
commitment to our wine industry, and her indelible<br />
role as a communicator and ambassador.”<br />
— Cool Climate Chardonnay Celebration<br />
“Michèle was a valued colleague here in Niagara-onthe-Lake<br />
and her influence was also felt right across the<br />
Canadian wine landscape. She will be missed …”<br />
— Reif Estate Winery<br />
“Michèle Bosc was a beautiful example of what it<br />
means to give her everything to customer service,<br />
she was an ambassador to exemplary experiences at<br />
Château des Charmes, was so supportive to women in<br />
business and such a mentor to so many — especially<br />
those that worked closest with her at the winery.”<br />
— Cathy Davis<br />
Michèle Bosc, seen below with her husband Paul, was an inspiring<br />
ambassador for Ontario wines in her role with Château des Charmes.<br />
Photo by CL Buchanan
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />
“To all of us women in wine, we have lost a<br />
strong, vibrant, inspirational, super intelligent,<br />
witty, leader. She was a guru of social media<br />
marketing in wine as an early adopter and then<br />
a market leader. As a colleague on the wine<br />
marketing council, her voice resonated with a<br />
true passion for our industry. So sad, she will<br />
be truly missed by so many.”<br />
— Danielle Giroux<br />
Michèle Bosc’s favourite quote about the<br />
family’s winery was “Making wine is not what<br />
we do, it’s who we are.” She was the<br />
wife of Paul Bosc Jr., the mother of<br />
their son Alex, and also a daughter<br />
and a sister. And an ambassador for<br />
the Ontario wine industry.<br />
In recognition of Michèle’s<br />
life and her contribution to the<br />
Ontario wine industry, here are<br />
some wine recommendations<br />
from her family’s winery.<br />
Château des Charmes Brut<br />
Sparkling (Vintages #224766,<br />
$25.95) — Michèle loved sparkling<br />
wine and was a promoter of<br />
Ontario bubbly. She was always<br />
Alton Farms<br />
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An EPIC Wine Region<br />
that shares latitude,<br />
not attitude.<br />
We pride our winery experiences<br />
as being laid back and fun. Enjoy<br />
our scenic wine route by taking an<br />
unforgettable road trip, or if you’re<br />
feeling adventurous, pedal your way<br />
around the shores.<br />
Fun Fact!<br />
Our EPIC Wine Region shares the same<br />
latitude as some of the worlds most<br />
renowned wine making regions, including<br />
Tuscany.<br />
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visitwindsoressex.com
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />
excited to talk about Château des Charmes<br />
wines, especially this one. Produced the same<br />
way as Champagne, (traditional method)<br />
with Ontario chardonnay and pinot noir<br />
grapes, this dry (brut) effervescent wine<br />
offers apple and pear fruit notes with terrific<br />
acidity. Secondary fermentation occurs in the<br />
bottle and it is aged at least two years before<br />
disgorgement, resulting in the added bready<br />
notes and creamy texture. Michèle’s favourite<br />
food pairing for this wine was popcorn. It<br />
was elected as an LCBO Vintages Essential<br />
(a collection of approximately 100 fine wines<br />
and spirits from around the world that are<br />
proven favourites, represent the county and<br />
region well and are usually available.)<br />
SATURDAY, MARCH 30, <strong>2019</strong><br />
9AM – 4PM<br />
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and adjacent Conference Rooms,<br />
Citi Plaza, London, Ontario<br />
251 Dundas St. London, ON<br />
• Shop Vendors<br />
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• Industry Speakers<br />
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and Kombucha in<br />
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Château des Charmes Vidal<br />
Icewine (Vintages #565861, $27.96<br />
/ 200mL bottle) — The day after<br />
Michèle’s death, Château des<br />
Charmes had to harvest the grapes<br />
for the 2018 icewine. When it is ready<br />
to be released, there are plans in the<br />
works that this Icewine will have a<br />
special label in honour of Michèle.<br />
The 2017 vintage is currently<br />
available at LCBO stores and the<br />
winery. Super sweet, candied<br />
apricot, honey and marmalade.<br />
Michèle recommended pairing with<br />
crème brûlée.<br />
Château des Charmes Paul Bosc<br />
Estate Vineyard 2016 Pinot Noir<br />
(VINTAGES #332858, $38.95) — This<br />
is a good representation of a topshelf<br />
Ontario pinot noir. Red cherry<br />
fruit lead, with earthy forest floor<br />
and smoky notes. It is a mediumbodied<br />
wine that is elegant in old<br />
world style. Michèle’s pairing<br />
suggestion — herb-encrusted<br />
rack of lamb or cedar-planked<br />
salmon with a hoisin glaze.<br />
GARY KILLOPS is a CAPS Certified<br />
Sommelier who loves to talk, taste, and<br />
write about wine. He shares his tasting<br />
notes on EssexWineReview.com<br />
SPONSORED BY:
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />
Music<br />
I Feel it Coming<br />
Upcoming Highlights on the Music Scene<br />
<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 43<br />
By GERRY BLACKWELL<br />
Spring is in the air! Okay, maybe we’re<br />
still buried in snow and icy winds still<br />
blow, but the end is definitely in sight.<br />
It will get lighter, and milder. It will.<br />
In the meantime, we have music to warm us.<br />
Jeff Healey called him “the finest blues<br />
guitarist in Canada.” Bob Dylan said he’d be<br />
famous if he hailed from Chicago. They were<br />
talking about Jack de Keyzer. London Music<br />
Club has the Jack de Keyzer Duo on Thursday,<br />
<strong>March</strong> 21 (7:30 pm/8:30 pm). The man has two<br />
Junos, seven Maple Blues Awards and a 2018<br />
album, CheckMate, to showcase. De Keyzer<br />
needs to be heard, you need to hear him.<br />
Jack de Keyzer<br />
Speaking<br />
of Junos,<br />
the Canadian<br />
music<br />
industry’s<br />
<strong>2019</strong> Juno<br />
Awards<br />
show is<br />
coming to<br />
Budweiser<br />
Gardens,<br />
<strong>March</strong> 17 (8<br />
pm). CBC<br />
will televise<br />
it live, but<br />
you can be<br />
there. Sarah McLachlan hosts and scheduled<br />
performers include Loud Luxury and <strong>2019</strong><br />
Canadian Music Hall of Fame inductee Corey<br />
Hart. There will be others.<br />
TD Sunfest is bringing Rosie & The<br />
Riveters to the Cuckoo’s Nest Folk Club,<br />
aka Chaucer’s Pub, on Wednesday, <strong>March</strong> 20<br />
(7:30 pm). The trio’s 2018 album, Ms. Behave,<br />
rode the U.S. Top Ten folk music charts for<br />
17 weeks. Billboard called it “powerful and<br />
daring.” It’s music for the #MeToo era — “a<br />
collection of gritty, sultry, vintage-inspired<br />
folk anthems that paint a portrait of a<br />
woman’s voice in a man’s world.”<br />
Western Music’s lunchtime “Fridays 12:30”<br />
concert series winds up its season with Light<br />
of East Ensemble. The London-based septet<br />
plays von Kuster Hall (Music Building) on<br />
Friday, <strong>March</strong> 22 (12:30 pm). LoEE plays music<br />
of the Near and Middle East — Armenian,<br />
Greek, Sephardic, Arabic. Intrigued? Check<br />
out their latest album, Live at Aeolian Hall, at<br />
goo.gl/DD2yiN.<br />
Light of East Ensemble<br />
Rosie & The Riveters<br />
Come for the concert, (12:00-12:30 pm), and<br />
stay for lunch ($8). Upcoming Friday Lenten<br />
Noon Recitals And Lunch at First-St. Andrew’s<br />
United Church: Alastair Smyth, Baritone<br />
on <strong>March</strong> 22. Laudamus Bells, Terry Head,<br />
Director on <strong>March</strong> 29. Lynda Kennedy and<br />
Terry Head Piano Duo on <strong>April</strong> 5. Admission<br />
is by free will donation.
44 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />
Sticking with world music, Sunfest is bringing<br />
Canadian flamenco-etcetera guitarist and<br />
composer Jesse Cook to Aeolian Hall on Friday,<br />
<strong>March</strong> 22 (7 pm/8 pm). Juno-winner Cook,<br />
born and partly raised in France, studied both<br />
flamenco and classical guitar. His music builds<br />
on those and other traditions, including jazz<br />
and Latin. If you love guitar, check him out (goo.<br />
gl/KFH9e7). He’s a master. (If you can’t make<br />
the London date, Cook is playing Brantford’s<br />
Sanderson Centre on Tuesday, <strong>March</strong> 19, 8 pm.)<br />
Bahamas<br />
Jesse Cook<br />
The last time multi-Juno-winning singersongwriter<br />
Bahamas (Afie Jurvanen) came<br />
to town, his shows sold out quickly. London<br />
Music Hall has the popular troubadour,<br />
along with opener Ben Rogers, on Tuesday,<br />
<strong>March</strong> 26 (7 pm/8 pm). My guess: if you like<br />
Bahamas, you’ll like Rogers. The latter is a<br />
little more traditional Americana, but with<br />
similarly catchy, intelligent songs. Bahamas<br />
is touring his 2018 album, Earthtones. Rogers’<br />
latest, Wildfire, drops in <strong>March</strong>.<br />
Hometown sweetheart Denise Pelley<br />
appears with The Ken Foster Quartet, part<br />
of the free Jazz for the People concert series<br />
at Wolf Performance Hall (Central Library). It<br />
goes Wednesday, <strong>March</strong> 27 (7:15 pm–8:45 pm).<br />
For more free concerts: goo.gl/F5ePKS. Did we<br />
mention they’re free?<br />
London Symphonia, the reincarnation of<br />
Orchestra London, offers an intriguing program<br />
on Tuesday, <strong>April</strong> 2 at the Talbot Street Church<br />
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />
(7:30 pm).<br />
Percussion<br />
soloist<br />
Beverley<br />
Johnston —<br />
vibraphone<br />
and cloud<br />
gongs! —<br />
joins the<br />
orchestra’s<br />
strings<br />
for Greek-<br />
Canadian<br />
Denise Pelley<br />
composer<br />
Christos Hatzi’s piece, Mirage. Rounding out the<br />
program, concert master Joseph Lanza takes a<br />
solo turn on some much more familiar music by<br />
Vivaldi. (For more LS concerts: goo.gl/LEFZMA.)<br />
Jazz fans take note. There’s a new band in<br />
town — well, sort of new. The London Jazz<br />
Sextet, formed with members of London’s<br />
Prime Time Big Band, debuts at London<br />
Music Club on Thursday, <strong>April</strong> 4 (7 pm/8<br />
pm). Expect the classics — Davis, Coltrane,<br />
Adderly, Monk, etc. — but in fresh new<br />
arrangements by the band.<br />
The Jeffery Concerts, the long-running<br />
chamber music series, presents one of London’s<br />
own musical treasures. World-renowned violist<br />
Sharon Wei appears in “Sharon Wei & Friends”<br />
at Wolf Performance Hall, Friday, <strong>April</strong> 5 (8 pm).<br />
Wei, who has worked with great orchestras and<br />
conductors, is a professor at Western’s music<br />
school. The program includes music by Hummel,<br />
Mendelsshon and lesser known early-Romantic<br />
composer Bernhard Heinrich Romberg. (For<br />
more Jeffery concerts: goo.gl/ct9Hst.)<br />
Canadian blues guitar mainstay Colin James<br />
comes to the Bud on Monday, <strong>April</strong> 8 (7:30 pm).<br />
James has been on a roll lately with two wellreceived<br />
and best-selling albums, 2016’s Blue<br />
Highways and 2018’s Miles To Go. Both spent<br />
time on roots/blues charts in Canada and the<br />
U.S. James has been at it a long time. Now, it<br />
seems, he’s an overnight sensation.<br />
The international success of her 2014 album,<br />
Compostela, took singer-songwriter Jenn<br />
Grant around the world. She’s back home now,<br />
touring with music from her 2017 follow-up,<br />
Paradise. Grant is at Aeolian Hall, Thursday,<br />
<strong>April</strong> 11 (7 pm/8 pm). Sometime collaborator<br />
Buck 65 (aka CBC Radio 2 DJ Rich Terfry) called<br />
her “one of the best singers in the world.” True?<br />
Come and find out. (If you miss her at Aeolian,<br />
Grant plays Dominion Telegraph in Paris on<br />
Thursday, <strong>April</strong> 18, 7 pm.)
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />
I’ve asked the question before: how does<br />
little Brantford get premier acts that never<br />
make it to London? Brantford’s Sanderson<br />
Centre has jazz star Sonja Gustafson with<br />
Mitchell & Kathryn Baran Family Foundation<br />
present<br />
Jenn Grant<br />
the Jim Clayton Quartet on Monday, <strong>April</strong><br />
15 (8 pm). Two nights later, same time, it’s pop<br />
music legend Chubby Checker. The guy must<br />
be about 100, but apparently still twists the<br />
night away. Brantford is only an hour away.<br />
American alt-rocker Neko Case, once<br />
and still occasionally lead singer of Canada’s<br />
New Pornographers, hits London Music Hall<br />
on Sunday, <strong>April</strong> 21 (7 pm). Case is touring<br />
her solo Hell-On album, released last year to<br />
strong reviews. It was recorded in Stockholm,<br />
Sweden. (We’re not sure why either.) Edgy,<br />
vaguely punk aesthetic.<br />
The Grand Theatre closes out its season<br />
with a revival of Mamma Mia!, the hit movie<br />
with soundtrack by Abba that found new life<br />
as a stage musical. Harmless, slightly sappy<br />
fun, catchy tunes.<br />
The Magisterra at the Museum chamber<br />
music series finishes up on Thursday, May 2<br />
(7 pm) at Museum London with “Eight.” The<br />
concert features members of the Londonbased<br />
collective founded and directed by<br />
German-born violinist Annette-Barbara<br />
Vogel. It features octets and sextets by<br />
Brahms and Brahms protégé Ferdinand<br />
Theriot, and a new commissioned work by<br />
local composer Edgar Suski.<br />
ARTY-PARTY<br />
& SILENT ART<br />
AUCTION<br />
In support of Unity Project & Museum London<br />
APRIL 27, <strong>2019</strong> @ 6 PM<br />
CENTRE AT THE FORKS - MUSEUM LONDON<br />
Buy tickets at:<br />
www.upwithart.ca<br />
Never heard of Swingrowers (pronounced<br />
swing growers)? Me neither. But if the folks<br />
at TD Sunfest think they’re worth bringing to<br />
Aeolian Hall — which they are, on Saturday,<br />
May 4 (7 pm/8 pm) — then I’m willing to listen.<br />
The vocal quartet, based in Palermo, Italy and<br />
Brighton, England, “blends the freshness of<br />
electronic dance music with the warm influences<br />
of 1920s and ’30’s era jazz to create a unique<br />
vintage-inspired pop sound.” Okay. Preview<br />
here: swingrowers.com. They are kind of fun.<br />
Swingrowers<br />
Wait, is that summer I see peaking over the<br />
horizon?<br />
Neko Case<br />
GERRY BLACKWELL is a London-based freelance<br />
writer.
46 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />
Theatre<br />
Dabbling in Wonderful<br />
Donna Feore on Work, Parenting & Inspiration<br />
By JANE ANTONIAK<br />
The secret inspiration for Donna<br />
Feore’s artistry on the stage,<br />
choreographing and directing<br />
dancers, singers and actors in<br />
brilliant, high-energy unison, comes from<br />
an unexpected place. The award-winning,<br />
Stratford-based dynamo behind the success<br />
of shows such as Guys and Dolls, Rocky Horror<br />
Picture Show, the movie Mean Girls and the<br />
TV movie Eloise, sees dance and movement<br />
all around her. In particular, she finds<br />
creative inspiration from her deep love of<br />
sport. This interview was conducted while<br />
she was driving to Toronto to proudly cheer<br />
on her daughter Anna Feore, a Team Canada<br />
volleyball player who is in her final season<br />
with the University of Toronto Blues. On<br />
another day she might have been spectating at<br />
her son Tom’s fencing match when he was also<br />
Donna Feore<br />
an undergraduate varsity athlete at U of T, or<br />
cheering her older stepson Jack at soccer.<br />
“I just don’t trust an actor that doesn’t love<br />
something other than acting. There are so<br />
many cross-overs and parallels between arts<br />
and sports. I commiserate with Anna’s coach<br />
all the time at U of T. We talk about strategies:<br />
we have to mediate, motivate and inspire. It’s<br />
very similar. One thing is for sure, when an<br />
athlete or actor loves something else, they<br />
bring more to the table,” says Feore.<br />
The mother-daughter pair has a favourite<br />
hangout: courtside watching the Toronto<br />
Raptors of the National Basketball League.<br />
“What I love about basketball is that you’ve<br />
got these big lanky men, some over seven feet<br />
tall. Now you are on this tiny space and you<br />
watch how beautifully they move. They are<br />
so body aware of each other. It is a beautiful<br />
dance and they are pretty graceful. When<br />
I saw LeBron James — that got me<br />
excited,” says Feore. “I have been known<br />
to have a glass of wine or two and buy<br />
very expensive Raptors tickets. It is so<br />
invigorating — I love being there.”<br />
What Feore experiences watching<br />
the round ball on the small court she<br />
transfers to the thrust stage at the<br />
Festival Theatre at Stratford, where she<br />
is kicking off her 25th season. She is a<br />
wizard at three-dimensional choreography,<br />
using every inch of a stage that<br />
has the audience wrapped around it on<br />
three sides. Right now, the excitement<br />
is mounting for this season’s production<br />
of Billy Elliot the Musical, which is in<br />
rehearsals at Stratford under the direction<br />
and choreography of Feore and<br />
which features a cast of 44, including 11<br />
children. It is just one of seven productions<br />
she is working on in <strong>2019</strong>, from<br />
Stratford to New York City to Ottawa.<br />
“I’m kind of busy everywhere right<br />
now,” says Feore without a trace of<br />
Photo by Ann Baggley
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />
Photo credit: Stratford Festival Reviews<br />
fatigue. “Billy Elliot is really my prime focus<br />
right now. It’s the first out of the gate and<br />
the biggest prep. It’s a show that has 14<br />
production numbers. It’s crazy. It is a huge<br />
show. We did a Billy Bootcamp in January and<br />
did a week with some of our young company<br />
including with Nolen Dubuc, the Billy Elliot,<br />
and his understudy. We have some exciting<br />
things like flying — so we had a week of<br />
doing scene, dialect work and then we started<br />
rehearsals on February first.”<br />
Feore says it has taken a year of<br />
preparations for her famous reinvention of a<br />
popular musical to the thrust stage. “I only do<br />
those that I can reimagine,” she says. For her,<br />
working with an 11-year-old lead is exciting. “I<br />
learn a lot from young actors, watching how<br />
free they are. They don’t have that mileage on<br />
them. They are incredibly open.”<br />
At the same time, Feore is also directing and<br />
choreographing the second Stratford musical<br />
of <strong>2019</strong>, Little Shop of Horrors, at the Avon<br />
Theatre with a ’60s score and loads of special<br />
effects. “Our plant is off the charts crazy as<br />
only Stratford could do it,” she says. This is<br />
sure to be a hit with the same crowd that put<br />
Rocky Horror into the Stratford record books for<br />
longest run, and with huge financial success.<br />
Feore says one woman attended Rocky 42 times<br />
and several others saw it 30 times. She hopes it<br />
will now move to Toronto.<br />
“The hard drive is full,” laughs Feore when<br />
asked how she juggles two major shows<br />
alongside work in other cities. “I tell my<br />
assistant ‘download all the<br />
content from my brain’! I<br />
work with my associates,<br />
they are fantastic and have<br />
been with me for six to<br />
seven years. We have our<br />
system. They get all the<br />
information and record<br />
everything. Right away, we<br />
set four to five numbers<br />
and if there is dance in a<br />
show we do that early, as it<br />
takes stamina so people are<br />
healthy, strong. There’s a<br />
bit of a method to the madness, you know.”<br />
Her longtime friendship and collaboration<br />
with Stratford Artistic Director Antoni<br />
Cimolino is evident in his regard for her.<br />
“Donna is the master of musical theatre. We<br />
are so fortunate to have her return this season<br />
and take on the gargantuan task of helming<br />
two major productions at the same time. Her<br />
The Wildest Town in Canada:<br />
Donnelly Songs & Stories<br />
by Jeff Culbert May 21 to May 25<br />
Like Father, Like Son? Sorry.<br />
by Chris Gibbs May 28 to June 1<br />
<strong>2019</strong><br />
SEASON<br />
PortStanley<br />
FestivalTheatre<br />
(519) 782-4353 www.psft.ca<br />
work last year on The Music Man and The Rocky<br />
Horror Show was inspirational and I have no<br />
doubt that her productions this season will<br />
have us all seeing both of these musicals in a<br />
brand new light.”<br />
Fifty-five-year old Feore seems to thrive on<br />
the “madness”. She and<br />
The Feore family: from the left,<br />
her husband, acclaimed<br />
Tom, Donna, Jack, Anna & Colm<br />
actor Colm Feore, are also<br />
parents to 22-year-old<br />
Anna and 24-year-old<br />
Tom, a law student at U<br />
of T, as well 29-year-old<br />
Jack, Colm’s son from a<br />
previous marriage, who<br />
is getting married this<br />
summer in Nova Scotia.<br />
Donna Feore is fiercely<br />
proud of the three of<br />
them. “The whole team<br />
knows when my kids are doing something!<br />
Sometimes the whole crew watches a semifinal<br />
match on the computer if Anna is competing<br />
abroad. It’s all about priorities. For women,<br />
I think we can have it all but not at the same<br />
time. Stop trying. This can go and that can<br />
happen. That can go and this can happen. I call<br />
it dabbling in wonderful.”
48 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />
She credits their decision to make<br />
Stratford a home base since 1997 as key to<br />
being able to manage two show business<br />
careers while raising a family. Feore says the<br />
location gives them room to breathe and that<br />
they actually enjoy the drives from Toronto<br />
Pearson airport to Stratford while Colm<br />
commutes to film shoots and she to stage<br />
and film work around the world. And, with<br />
her trademark big personality, she jokes that<br />
her choice in a husband was quite practical.<br />
“The other smart thing I did was marry a<br />
man who is an absolutely fabulous cook!<br />
First question when you meet someone is:<br />
do you golf, the answer is no then you carry<br />
on. Second question is do you cook and the<br />
answer is yes then you carry on!”<br />
Feore’s theatre work is vast and expanding.<br />
The hit The Hockey Sweater, the Musical that<br />
she directed and choreographed ran at the<br />
National Arts Centre in Ottawa, and is now<br />
being translated to French for the Montreal<br />
stage. She hopes that show will travel out west.<br />
She is developing a new musical in New York<br />
and another for Stratford, she hints, possibly<br />
for 2020. Her multi-media production, Life<br />
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />
Reflected, will run on International Women’s<br />
Day in Ottawa, and she continues to work as a<br />
director with operas, including The Marriage of<br />
Figaro in Ottawa.<br />
Despite all her career success, Feore<br />
says that in the end she has a small target<br />
audience: her family. “Honestly: every choice<br />
I make in my life, from choices of what<br />
material I am going to do, what I won’t do, I<br />
think of my daughter. I want my daughter to<br />
be proud of me. Sometimes we have to make<br />
hard ones, and we have to speak up and have<br />
hard things to say. The one thing I’ve always<br />
taught my children is that there is a very big<br />
difference between assertive and aggressive.<br />
Being assertive is about being clear and it<br />
will take you a long way. There is nothing<br />
gray about me. I take the word director<br />
seriously — it has the word direct in it and<br />
it’s never been so important. Do what you<br />
mean and mean what you say.”<br />
JANE ANTONIAK is a regular contributor to <strong>Eatdrink</strong>.<br />
She is also Manager, Communications & Media Relations,<br />
at King’s University College in London.<br />
WIN A LEXUS FOR A WEEKEND!<br />
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Contest ends May 27, <strong>2019</strong>. Complete details online.<br />
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eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />
<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 49<br />
The global smash-hit musical!<br />
“One of the most enduring musicals of our era.” now magazine<br />
“The ultimate feel-good tale of love conquering all.” the guardian<br />
<strong>April</strong> 23 to May 11<br />
Spriet Stage<br />
Music and Lyrics by Benny Andersson and<br />
Björn Ulvaeus<br />
And some songs with Stig Anderson<br />
Book by Catherine Johnson<br />
Originally Conceived by Judy Craymer<br />
Co-production with the Charlottetown<br />
Festival<br />
grandtheatre.com 519.672.8800<br />
season sponsor<br />
title sponsor
50 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />
The BUZZ<br />
Culinary Community Notes<br />
London<br />
Rembrandt Homes together with Bethanys Hope<br />
Foundation presents “Feast with Friends” featuring<br />
Food Network star Chef Michael Smith, on Thursday,<br />
<strong>April</strong> 25. Enjoy an “Interactive Dinner Party” that<br />
kicks off at London Convention Centre with 5pm<br />
cocktails, food stations hosted by London culinary<br />
luminaries, and a silent auction. A sit-down dinner<br />
service and program, including a live auction, starts<br />
at 7pm. Tickets are $200 and available online, or<br />
call 519-858-HOPE. This is an exciting time for<br />
Bethany’s Hope, with clinical trials imminent after<br />
more than two decades of groundbreaking research<br />
right here in London into the devastating disease of<br />
Metachromatic Leukodystrophy (MLD). If you have<br />
not yet seen the short video outlining the efforts<br />
of Lindey and David Mcintyre, who lost their child<br />
Bethany to MLD, go to bethanyscure.ca and prepare<br />
to be inspired. You can also see a video showing<br />
highlights of last year’s event. bethanyshope.org<br />
Angelina & Carmine Ianni, formerly of Pasquales in<br />
North London, have opened C’Angelina at 426 Third<br />
St. Tuesday–Friday, 1–6pm, they sell prepared foods<br />
and fresh meats and offer family-style catering —<br />
including BBQ whole pigs — for family reunions,<br />
weddings, or backyard parties. You also will find<br />
them, and their porchetta specialty, at London<br />
festivals this summer and at the Pinery Market in<br />
Grand Bend. facebook.com/cangelinameatcatering/<br />
While this might sound like heresy to those pining for<br />
Spring, Kevin Beattie and his team award-winning<br />
team at Somerset Fine Wines reminds us that it<br />
is never too early to start your Christmas wine! A<br />
common misconception is that making wine at an<br />
affordable price means it will taste “like homemade.”<br />
Drop in at 150 Exeter Road for expert guidance, or go<br />
to somersetfinewines.com to see their Spring Specials.<br />
Cream Beanery Cafe is a coffee and gelato shop,<br />
and more. They serve breakfast, lunch and supper,<br />
featuring daily homemade specials. Save room for a<br />
Gelato Panini — your favourite gelato flavour sealed<br />
inside a fresh brioche bun. Delicious! 825 Southdale<br />
Rd. W (at Tillman) creambeanery.com<br />
As reported by the CBC, a bad olive harvest, primarily<br />
due to the olive fly, plus a late harvest due to<br />
challenging conditions, has led to some shortages of<br />
quality extra virgin olive oil. Jamie Griffiths of The<br />
Pristine Olive let us know they have found a good supply<br />
from Spain, Sicily and California, as well as his first oil<br />
from Portugal. His store is at 884 Adelaide St N, with<br />
products also available at The Village Meat Shop at The<br />
Market at Western Fair on weekends. thepristineolive.ca<br />
The Church Key is Vanessa and Pete Willis’ downtown<br />
gastro-pub with farm-to-table cuisine and an<br />
impressive selection of craft beers. Chef Michael<br />
Anglestad follows in the modern British tradition by<br />
specializing in high quality food prepared with innovation<br />
and finesse. 476 Richmond St. thechurchkey.ca<br />
Unity Project for Relief of Homelessness provides<br />
emergency shelter, supportive housing and related<br />
services to help adults and youth avoid living on<br />
the street. Life skills are embedded into a home-like<br />
environment where programming for over a thousand<br />
individuals (annually) involves participants with<br />
personal accountability, taking care of themselves,<br />
481 Richmond Street<br />
519-432-4092<br />
garlicsoflondon.com
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />
each other, and community. This year, the Unity<br />
Project announced a partnership with Museum<br />
London for the 9th annual UPwithART event to be held<br />
on <strong>April</strong> 27 at the new Centre at the Forks at Museum<br />
London, catered by North Moore Catering. UPwithART<br />
is Unity Project’s signature fundraiser and a significant<br />
charitable and art event in London. upwithart.ca<br />
The Regional HIV/AIDS Connection annual fundraiser<br />
“A Taste for Life” returns May 1st. Get involved by<br />
volunteering, donating, or dining out at a participating<br />
restaurant! Participating restaurants open their doors<br />
and donate 25% of their evening sales to AIDS service<br />
organizations in their community. atasteforlife.org<br />
Chef Kim Sutherland has done a stellar job<br />
transforming food services at Boler Mountain,<br />
offering a wide variety of healthy choices including<br />
Buddha bowls with vegan broth, housemade<br />
chicken and vegetarian chilli, and grab-and-go<br />
fresh wraps alongside a full line of hot foods aimed<br />
at hungry families, including a full breakfast. She<br />
nurtures a bee colony on site and has instituted an<br />
extensive landfill diversion program. Kudos! As well,<br />
Chef Kim leads the catering kitchen for weddings and<br />
special events at Boler. The popular new chalet is<br />
now booking into 2020. bolermountain.com<br />
TIME<br />
FOR<br />
A<br />
Far Out ...<br />
but we like it that way!<br />
SPRING TUNE-UP?<br />
FOR<br />
COME IN AN OIL CHANGE<br />
A fresh, new harvest of EVOO has arrived just in time for Spring!<br />
Come say Hola, Olá, Hello, or Ciao to our fresh crush of Spanish,<br />
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Blair Rd<br />
London<br />
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Oxford St<br />
Come for the planes and<br />
fall in love with the food.<br />
Open Thursday & Friday<br />
(3–6pm) for Small Plate Apps!<br />
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Wednesdays<br />
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519-455-9005<br />
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2530 Blair Rd, London<br />
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Lunch Mon–Fri 11–3 • Dinner Wed–Sun from 5pm<br />
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884 Adelaide Street N. | London | 519-433-4444<br />
www.thepristineolive.ca
52 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />
The London Training Centre (LTC) Local Food<br />
Skills program connects people to food. Receiving<br />
solid food-based knowledge, participants explore<br />
options for working with food as a job or profession.<br />
This is a full-time three-week course that provides<br />
skills training, industry certifications and learning<br />
experiences including fundamental culinary skills,<br />
food service styles, growing, harvesting and retailing<br />
food at a farmers’ market. Revenue from the wildly<br />
popular Local Food Skills monthly dinners, put on<br />
by students, supports the program. londontraining.<br />
on.ca/local_food_skills.htm<br />
Natural Ingredients<br />
from Local Vendors<br />
Baked with Butter<br />
from Scratch In House<br />
Lovingly Crafted with Skill & Heart<br />
Owners Tabitha & Dave<br />
New York Style Bagels! Apple & Blueberry Fritters!<br />
900 Oxford Street East at Gammage<br />
519-601-1651<br />
Fanshawe College and downtown’s new flex street,<br />
Dundas Place, host a celebration of Canadian music,<br />
food and fun on <strong>March</strong> 15, noon–6pm, coinciding<br />
with JUNO Week (<strong>March</strong> 11–17). All members of the<br />
community, along with Fanshawe staff, students and<br />
alumni, are invited to attend. This free, family-friendly<br />
celebration will include live performances by Fanshawe<br />
Music Industry Arts students and graduates and feature<br />
JUNO-inspired appetizers prepared by The Chef’s Table<br />
for a $2 donation. fanshawec.ca/fanshawe-live.<br />
The Market at Western Fair is open Saturdays<br />
(8am–3pm) and Sundays (10am–2pm) every week.<br />
Market Manager Dan Ross and Assistant Manager<br />
Courtney Berens continue to grow attendance<br />
and improve the customer experience. Two floors<br />
and 100+ vendors make up the Market, each with<br />
unique products. Help support local and include<br />
@TheMarketWFD and use #MeetMeAtTheMarket<br />
when sharing on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter.<br />
westernfairdistrict.com/market<br />
Chef Andrew Wolwowicz’s commitment to freshness<br />
and the provenance of what is on the plate is one<br />
of the cornerstones of Craft Farmacy’s culinary<br />
philosophy. The focus is on craft beer, cocktails, a<br />
large selection of fresh oysters, shellfish and inspired<br />
rustic farm-to-table cuisine. Open for lunch and<br />
dinner Tuesday–Saturday, and Sundays for a prix fixe<br />
brunch and dinner. 449 Wharncliffe Rd, just north of<br />
Baseline. facebook.com/craftfarmacy<br />
Chef Angie Murphy and partner/sommelier Pete<br />
Annson have had some delays opening Grace,<br />
located at the southwest corner of Clarence and<br />
Dundas Streets. facebook.com/graceLDNONT/<br />
Field to Fork Caterer Chef Chad Stewart graduated<br />
college with Culinary Arts and Food & Beverage<br />
diplomas. In 2010, he moved to Vancouver to work at<br />
elite restaurants for the Olympics, including the first<br />
true 100-mile kitchen called Rain City Grill. Stewart<br />
worked at Garlic’s of London for five years and moved<br />
Hope Made Delicious.<br />
atasteforlife.org<br />
Thank you for supporting those<br />
living with, a ected by, and at-risk for HIV/AIDS.<br />
HOPE<br />
WED<br />
w<br />
WEDNESDAY, MAY 1<br />
Where Will You Dine?<br />
25% of sales will be donated to RHAC.
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />
In Memoriam<br />
Angelo Stavrou, 1943–<strong>2019</strong><br />
Owner of Merla Mae Ice Cream, London<br />
He was owner of a number<br />
of successful businesses, but<br />
became beloved by ice cream<br />
lovers young and old when he<br />
stepped in to save a London<br />
institution in 1998. Angelo<br />
Stavrou remained hands on<br />
at Merla Mae Ice Cream Catering until for Special Events,<br />
his recent battle with Company cancer, & Family Christmas<br />
arriving early every day Parties, to do Schools whatever & Sports needed Teams<br />
doing. “Always give more We deliver. than what Full Service the portion Available.<br />
sizes are,” he instructed his daughter Roula<br />
Dereza, who carries on Fresh at Merla Homemade Mae. “He Pasta loved &<br />
Sauces, Meatballs, Lasagnas<br />
taking care of his customers,” said Roula. “He was<br />
and so much more!<br />
on top of his business. And a family man like no<br />
other.” Angelo Stavrou will be sadly missed.<br />
up the ranks to head chef. For the last three years,<br />
Stewart has been a caterer and part time technician<br />
for Fanshawe’s Culinary Management Program. Now<br />
Stewart and his wife Catherine are launching London’s<br />
newest food truck, the Field to Truck Mobile Eatery, just<br />
in time for the JUNO Awards. fieldtoforkcatering.ca<br />
Welcome Reset Social Cafe to downtown London! This<br />
is a new hot-spot for fresh food, coffee and premium<br />
juices, under the Azure condo building at 503 Talbot St.<br />
The vibrant setting makes for a perfect spot to recharge,<br />
relax and reset your day. resetsocial.cafe<br />
Anita Tasonyi and Eduard Nagy are now operating<br />
Budapest Restaurant and making upgrades to the<br />
iconic gem. Protégés of the late Marika Hayek, they<br />
continue to delight clients by serving authentic<br />
Hungarian specialities in this traditional old-world<br />
tavern setting. Try the schnitzel or the stuffed veal —<br />
the spätzle and goulash are also delicious — and save<br />
room for the palacsinta. 348 Dundas St., 519-439-3431<br />
Jess Jazey-Spoelstra’s River Room, inside Museum<br />
London, has banks of tinted windows with panoramic<br />
views overlooking the Forks of the Thames. With<br />
a clubby ambience, tailored décor and charming<br />
attitude, The River Room is open for lunch Tuesday–<br />
Friday, and Sundays for a prix fixe brunch. Museum<br />
London, Ridout St. N. northmoore.ca/theriverroom<br />
Rio Brazilian Steakhouse, located in one of London’s<br />
most historic buildings, boasts a kitchen at the top of<br />
its game. Doors open for their “rodizio” — all-youcan-eat<br />
churrascaria served tableside by charming<br />
gauchos — and an extensive selection of sides at<br />
5pm daily. 45 King Street (at Ridout), rio.london<br />
Bring back “homemade”<br />
again with Marshall’s Pasta!<br />
Quality<br />
Convenient<br />
Meals<br />
Fresh Homemade Pasta & Sauces,<br />
Meatballs, Lasagnas and so much more!<br />
Text<br />
MARSHALLS<br />
to 70734 for a<br />
$5.00 Off Coupon<br />
to be used in-store!<br />
Fully Cooked<br />
Family Dinner for 4!<br />
Choose Your Pasta Tray<br />
& Sauce + Garlic Bread<br />
$21 .99<br />
Pick up Hot and<br />
Ready to Eat!<br />
580 Adelaide St N, London<br />
519-672-7827<br />
MON–FRI 9:30am–7pm • SAT 9:30am–5pm • SUN 11am–5pm<br />
Full menu available at marshallspastacatering.ca<br />
Loose Leaf Teas & Tisanes<br />
•<br />
Contemporary & Traditional Teaware<br />
•<br />
Fresh Soups, Salads, Cheese Boards,<br />
Fresh-baked Scones,<br />
Curry’s<br />
Indian Cuisine<br />
& Tea Pairing Dinner<br />
Sat., <strong>March</strong> 9, 7pm<br />
$75/pp, 4 courses<br />
Around the<br />
World Vegan<br />
Tea Pairing Dinner<br />
by Yoda Olinyk<br />
Sat., <strong>April</strong> 23, 7pm<br />
$75/pp, 4 courses<br />
Desserts<br />
The Art of<br />
Cup Tossing<br />
– Reading Tea Leaves<br />
(Novice Course Training)<br />
Sun., <strong>March</strong> 24<br />
$165 (6 hours)<br />
Tea<br />
& Chocolate<br />
Pairing with<br />
Sweet Brigadeiros<br />
Wed., May 10<br />
268 Piccadilly Street<br />
(beside Oxford Book Store)<br />
519-601-TEAS (8327) • tealoungelondon.com<br />
WED & THURS 11am-6pm • FRI & SAT 11am-9pm • SUN noon–5pm
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />
The Merry Makers Block Party<br />
Saturday, <strong>March</strong> 16, 1–5pm<br />
Held outside on the Covent Garden Market Square,<br />
directly across from Budweiser Gardens.<br />
This 100% handmade, 100% local makers<br />
fair will include food and beverage<br />
vendors, music, and handcrafted<br />
wares from the Forest City. The<br />
downtown core will be alive with<br />
community activities and events all day long!<br />
Mezzanine Level Kids Event, 2–5pm<br />
A fun, free kids event will be held upstairs. See Miss T,<br />
the Bubble Queen, and her incredible bubble show and<br />
enjoy your photo op standing in a large giant bubble!<br />
The event will also have a Bouncy castle, face painters,<br />
live entertainment, food and COTTON CANDY!<br />
Outdoor Easter Farmers’ Market<br />
Saturday, <strong>April</strong> 20, 8am–1pm<br />
Enjoy an abundance of local favourites in our annual<br />
Easter celebration, outside on the Market Square.<br />
See our website or Facebook page for further details.<br />
FREE PARKING<br />
With Validation<br />
Half Hour Weekdays<br />
Market Hours<br />
Monday to Saturday<br />
Restaurateur and community leader Heidi Vamvalis<br />
is a pillar of hospitality, and has been serving Greek/<br />
Mediterranean cuisine and traditional English fish<br />
& chips with her husband Bill for over 40 years at<br />
beloved Mykonos Restaurant. Mykonos sports a<br />
festive covered patio that is heated during the cooler<br />
weather. The Mykonos Platter with moussaka,<br />
pastichio, souvlaki, tsaziki, tiropitaki, spanakopita,<br />
loukanica and dolmathaki is outstanding. 572 Adelaide<br />
Street N., 519-434-6736, mykonosrestaurant.ca<br />
Abruzzi Ristorante is an up-to-date epicurean hot spot<br />
serving both modern and emblematic regional Italian<br />
specialties. Owners Rob D’Amico and Chef Dave Lamer’s<br />
offerings are intuitive, often iconic, and prepared<br />
with locally-sourced and quality ethnic ingredients,<br />
supported by a superior wine list featuring<br />
interesting consignments. 119 King St., abruzzi.ca<br />
Barbara Czyz’s success with Unique Food Attitude is<br />
due to excellent modern European cuisine, creative<br />
chalkboard offerings, and an attentive vibe. Specialties<br />
include bigos, Polish poutine, goulash with potato<br />
pancakes, slow-cooked cabbage rolls, and peirogi with<br />
sweet and savoury fillings. 697 Dundas St., 519-649-<br />
2225, unique-food-attitudes.com<br />
Chef/restaurateur T.G. Haile of T.G.’s Addis Ababa<br />
Restaurant embodies the art of hospitality and<br />
entrepreneurism. She is dedicated to supporting<br />
meaningful cultural and charitable initiatives and<br />
events, despite being a busy hands-on restaurateur who<br />
does all of the cooking at her restaurant. Be sure to put<br />
TG’s Ethiopian breakfast on your list for a great culinary<br />
adventure on Sundays. 465 Dundas St. (at Maitland),<br />
519-433-4222, tgsaddisababarestaurant.com<br />
Jill’s Table is London’s paramount purveyor of fine<br />
foods and an award-winning specialty food and<br />
kitchen store in downtown London. Owner Jill Wilcox<br />
is an amazing culinary resource — supportive,<br />
knowledgeable and a leader in promoting the local<br />
food community. For more than 23 years, Wilcox has<br />
been leading cooking classes, now at Jill’s Table, and<br />
has been a food columnist for the London Free Press<br />
and Post Media for more than 38 years. jillstable.ca<br />
Chef Ashton Gillespie’s latest venture is The Dinner<br />
Table — a pop-up restaurant series. Meals are<br />
served at a communal table so anyone who enjoys<br />
great service and delicious food are encouraged to<br />
join them for a variety of themed dinners. facebook.<br />
com/popupthedinnertable<br />
PC Cooking Schools at Superstore offer one-hour<br />
weekly daytime “What’s for Dinner?” classes on<br />
Thursdays. Oxford & Gammage 12:30–1:30 pm or<br />
Oxford & Hyde Park Road 1–2pm. Gammage location<br />
classes will include “A Serbian Feast” with Paul
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />
<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 55<br />
Abeleira on <strong>March</strong> 5, 6:30–8:30 pm; “Indian Food to<br />
Fight Winter Chills” with Jasjit on <strong>March</strong> 24, 1–3pm;<br />
“Cinco de Mayo” with Chef Barbara Toomer, <strong>April</strong><br />
19, 6:30–8:30 pm; and “Flavours of the Far East”<br />
with Chef Mies Bervoets, <strong>April</strong> 30, 6:30–8:30pm.<br />
The Hyde Park Road location offers “Fruitful Dining”<br />
with Jamie Chowns, <strong>March</strong> 14, 6:30–8:30pm; “Cinco<br />
de Mayo” with Chef Barbara Toomer, <strong>March</strong> 26,<br />
6:30–8:30pm; and “Indian Seafood Sensations” with<br />
Ankita Vaidya, <strong>April</strong> 23, 6:30-8:30 pm. Sign up for<br />
any PC Cooking classes at customer service in-stores<br />
or online. pccookingschool.ca<br />
The 2nd annual London I Love BEER Festival: The<br />
Taco Edition is coming to the London Convention<br />
Centre on <strong>March</strong> 23 for a night of Ontario beer, cider,<br />
spirits and tacos. Cheers! iheartbeer.ca/london/<br />
Michelle Pierce Hamilton is sponsoring London’s<br />
first Tea & Kombucha Festival on Saturday, <strong>March</strong> 30<br />
at the London Public Library Central Branch (Wolf<br />
Performance Hall and meeting spaces). The Tea<br />
Guild of Canada is a co-sponsor, providing expertise,<br />
resources, and volunteers. The spirit of this venture is<br />
to grow tea culture by showcasing London and areas’<br />
independent tea and kombucha businesses. There will<br />
be a strong lineup of engaging skill-building workshops<br />
and speakers, including focused tea tastings by certified<br />
tea sommelier Karen Hardwick and Tea Haus owner<br />
Stefanie Stolzel. londonteafestival.ca<br />
Twenty new coaches emerged from the experiential<br />
tourism “Train the Trainer” course hosted by SWOTC<br />
and guru Celes Davar at The Tap Room above The<br />
Root Cellar, a ground-breaking gathering of tourism<br />
marketers and “experience” partners, all grads of the<br />
“Unlocked & Inspired” experiential tourism training.<br />
A Slow Food-inspired evening, with a craft beer<br />
pairing by Nate Torrresan of Forked River Brewing<br />
Co., was facilitated by Bryan Lavery and emceed by<br />
Nick Lavery of the Lavery Culinary Group with Chef<br />
Thomas Waite of The In Home Chef and Chef Ashton<br />
Gillespie of The Dinner Table. Speakers Gary Rowsell<br />
and Emanuela Frongia spoke about the Slow Food<br />
movement and its exciting Canadian Ark of Taste.<br />
Chaucer’s Pub (sibling to Marienbad next door)is<br />
among the longest continuously-operating hospitality<br />
businesses in downtown London and will be<br />
celebrating a 40th anniversary later this year. A local<br />
historian tells us “it is the only non-private pub/bar<br />
in London that does not have a TV screen in your face.<br />
(Up the art of conversation!).” marienbad.ca<br />
Congratulations to Alieska Robles and the amazing<br />
Forest City Cookbook team! The ambitious project<br />
More than just a Coffee Shop!<br />
Breakfast<br />
Lunch<br />
Dinner<br />
Gelato<br />
Panini<br />
Quality Coffee<br />
120 Different<br />
Flavour Shots!<br />
Open Daily<br />
8am–8pm<br />
Homemade Gelato<br />
• Quality Coffee<br />
• Espresso • Lattes • Cappuccino<br />
• 30 Organic Loose Leaf Teas<br />
• Homemade Gelato • Soft Ice Cream<br />
• Milkshakes • Sundaes • Gelato Paninis<br />
• Homemade Soup & Chili • Light Meals<br />
Pour Over Coffee Bar<br />
We grind fresh (even decaf),<br />
use filtered water and<br />
manually pour your coffee<br />
on the spot<br />
10%<br />
Senior’s Discount<br />
on<br />
Mondays!<br />
825 Southdale Rd W, London<br />
519-652-1607<br />
creambeanerycafe.com
where art is<br />
Hey, Cupcake! a piece of cake<br />
The ORIGINAL<br />
LONDON CAKERY &<br />
GOURMET CUPCAKE<br />
BAKERY<br />
ASK US Custom Bakery • Walk-In Orders Available<br />
ABOUT OUR<br />
“RANDOM<br />
ACTS OF<br />
SWEETNESS!”<br />
CAMPAIGN<br />
www.heycupcake.ca<br />
275 Wharncliffe Rd. North<br />
519-433-CAKE (2253)<br />
STORE HOURS: Mon–Fri 11–7<br />
Saturday 10–5 • Sunday 11–4<br />
Your love of all things Italian begins at<br />
Gift Cards<br />
Available<br />
519-652-7659 • HWY 401 & 4 • pastosgrill.com<br />
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />
that inspired London’s culinary community can<br />
now be called “an international award-winning<br />
cookbook,” as the Canadian winner of the <strong>2019</strong><br />
Gourmand World Cookbook Awards in two<br />
categories: “Best Self-Published Book in English in<br />
Canada” and “Best Digital Book for Sale in Canada.”<br />
forestcitycookbook.com/shop/ebook<br />
Meaghan Biddle (manager, barista and coffee educator)<br />
and Alastair Smyth (barista) of Locomotive Espresso<br />
will be competing in the Canadian National Barista<br />
Championships the weekend of <strong>March</strong> 15–17 in Toronto.<br />
Good luck! locomotiveespresso.com<br />
Mama Chena Coffee Co. is Alberto Sepulveda’s coffee<br />
business based in London. Importing green coffee<br />
beans from the family farm and others on the north<br />
coast of Colombia, along the Sierra Nevada de Santa<br />
Marta mountain range, they supply direct trade<br />
green coffee beans to a number of southwestern<br />
Ontario roasters who help share their story. Clients<br />
include O-Joe Coffee (Mt. Brydges), Blackwater<br />
Coffee Co. (Sarnia), Chance Coffee (Windsor),<br />
Coastal Coffee Co. (Zurich, Ontario), Patrick’s Beans<br />
(London), Hasbeans (London), CommonWealth<br />
Coffee (London), Stratford Coffee Co. (Stratford), and<br />
Smile Tiger (Kitchener). mamachena.com<br />
The new culinary team at Dundas St.’s The Root<br />
Cellar remains committed to forging meaningful<br />
relationships with local, organic, and sustainable<br />
farms in Southwestern Ontario with worker-owned<br />
On the Move Organics, which continues to expand the<br />
network of organic farmers and producers they work<br />
with. Look for the new On the Move Organics location at<br />
The Market at Western Fair. onthemoveorganics.ca<br />
Shelbys Food Express on Horton Street has taken the<br />
city by storm with generous servings of traditional<br />
and fusion Middle Eastern cuisine. Now there is a<br />
new sibling — Bistro 644 — on Richmond Row,<br />
in the space previously occupied by Sakata at 644<br />
Richmond Street. shelbysfoodexpress.com<br />
At the new Quebec-based Copper Branch on<br />
Richmond Row, they’re offering a 100% plant-based<br />
power food menu. Chef-inspired menu items include<br />
power bowls, burgers, sandwiches, all-day breakfast,<br />
power smoothies, organic coffees and teas, and allnatural<br />
beverages. CopperBranch.ca<br />
Chris MacGregor and Valentino “Val” De Franco<br />
have opened up a new Shoeless Joe’s restaurant<br />
franchise at 89 King St., across from Budweiser<br />
Gardens. Expect an urban feel, with a sports bar<br />
focus. “We’re going to be open late,” says MacGregor.<br />
“So even after the London Knights have played or a<br />
concert has let out, patrons can come over for drinks<br />
and great food.” shoelessjoes.ca.
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />
Stratford<br />
For 35 years, Stratford Chefs School, a not-for-profit<br />
career college focused on innovative, hands-on<br />
training of high quality, aspiring chefs and culinary<br />
entrepreneurs, has set the standard of excellence<br />
for culinary training in Canada. In addition to its<br />
renowned 32-week professional cookery program,<br />
the School recently launched a unique 16-week<br />
“Cook: Basic – Level 1 Diploma” program to run<br />
June 3–September 20. Teaching the basics of<br />
classical cookery and pastry coupled with theory<br />
classes focused on cuisine and hospitality, this<br />
program is perfect for those embarking on a second<br />
career or interested in fast-tracking culinary goals.<br />
stratfordchef.com/summer-program<br />
Interested in more recreational cooking classes?<br />
Stratford Chefs School continues its Open Kitchen<br />
program from <strong>March</strong>–October, devoted to home<br />
cooks and food-lovers looking for hands-on, skillbuilding<br />
classes that are informative and fun. $35 to<br />
$85 per session. stratfordchef.com/open-kitchen<br />
Herald Haus Brewing Co. is now open, in the<br />
extensively refurbished historic Herald building<br />
at 21 Market Place, former headquarters of The<br />
Stratford Herald newspaper. Owned and operated<br />
by Daniel J. Graver, the team includes head brewer<br />
Jeff Macdonald and assistant brewer John Zippel.<br />
Drop by the taproom for expertly poured pints, cans<br />
for purchase and an exclusive menu prepared by<br />
The Hub kitchen team next door. heraldhaus.com<br />
Old Man & Son, launched by Jessie Votary and the<br />
folks at The Red Rabbit and Okazu 85 Downie as<br />
another opportunity to offer fair wages and year<br />
round employment, is open for breakfast and lunch.<br />
Early risers (open at 7am) can expect super fluffy<br />
pancakes, smoked bacon and sausage, avocado<br />
toast and other honest fare with delicious twists.<br />
Lunch includes an interesting selection of burgers<br />
and sandwiches. 75 Wellington St., 519-305-7575,<br />
oldmanandson.com<br />
<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 57<br />
Steve Walters’ mission is to create a more optimistic<br />
future through the world of food. The Hub Fine<br />
Foods & Market will open this spring in the former<br />
location of Bard’s, followed by The Hub Butchery.<br />
Walters, as Agency Creative Director of the<br />
market, promises a bakery, freshly prepared foods,<br />
specialty and local products and fresh produce —<br />
“a welcome destination for the food enthusiast.”<br />
The Restaurant at The Bruce is hosting two special<br />
events in <strong>March</strong>. Savour Afternoon Tea on <strong>March</strong><br />
10, with a delectable mix of traditional and New<br />
100% Local — from Our Farmers to Your Table<br />
Hormone & Drug-Free<br />
Ontario Beef, Pork, Bison, Lamb & Chicken<br />
THE VILLAGE<br />
MEAT SHOP<br />
LOCAL - NATURAL - QUALITY<br />
WE ARE YOUR LONDON OUTLET FOR<br />
• Metzger Meat Products • Lena’s Lamb<br />
• Blanbrook Bison Farm • Little Sisters Chicken<br />
• Glengyle Farm Organics<br />
The Market at Western Fair District: SAT 8–3; SUN 10–2<br />
226-376-6328 • www.thevillagemeatshop.ca<br />
willie’s café<br />
630 Dundas Street, Old East Village.<br />
@williescafe
58 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />
Canadiana nibbles served alongside a choice of<br />
20 loose leaf teas curated by their certified tea<br />
sommelier. A Sugar Shack Dinner will be held<br />
on <strong>March</strong> 23, with each of five courses “mapleinspired”<br />
with all local Canadian ingredients.<br />
Reservations required. And don’t forget the Bruce’s<br />
Local Nights on Mondays. Enjoy an an innovative<br />
menu at a super price. visitstratford.ca/partner/<br />
The-Bruce-Restaurant<br />
Weather permitting, the annual Swan Parade/<br />
Release will officially begin at 2pm on <strong>April</strong> 7, but<br />
the family fun runs noon–3pm with carriage rides,<br />
street performers and a quest for decorated pop-up<br />
swan topiaries. Make your way downtown to Lakeside<br />
Drive where the swans are led by the Stratford Police<br />
Pipes and Drums. visitstratford.ca/swans<br />
Puck’s Plenty Early Spring Foraging begins <strong>April</strong> 20<br />
with naturalist/forager Peter Blush. Search forest<br />
trails for wild edibles and learn to harvest these<br />
delicious gems of nature sustainably. Recipes will<br />
also be supplied. 96 Birmingham St., 10am–1pm, $35.<br />
Call 519 271-3726 to reserve your space.<br />
The Milky Whey Fine Cheese Shop hosts a “This<br />
Cheese, That Wine” tasting and pairing event on<br />
<strong>April</strong> 6. visitstratford.ca/partner/The-Milky-Whey-<br />
Fine-Cheese-Shop<br />
Stop by Junction 56 Distillery on a Saturday (11am–<br />
noon) for a lively and informative tour. Be sure to try<br />
Sugar Shack, maple-flavoured moonshine, as well<br />
as Fireshine (cinnamon) and Eclipse (anise) flavours,<br />
just three of several wonderful flavours offered. The<br />
award-winning distillery also specializes in vodka<br />
and gin. 45 Cambria St., $15, junction56.ca<br />
The Slow Food Perth County Sunday Market<br />
runs 10am–2pm indoors at downtown Festival<br />
Marketplace Mall until May, when it moves to the<br />
Market Square at City Hall. You’ll find local produce,<br />
bread, soup, sweets, soap, healthy treats, crafty<br />
things, lacto-fermented foods, cheese, grass-fed<br />
meats and garden seeds. .slowfoodperthcounty.ca<br />
Stratford Farmers’ Market, a year-round market<br />
operating since 1855, offers fresh produce, crafts,<br />
meat and cheese at Stratford Rotary Complex-<br />
Agriplex, 353 McCarthy Rd, Saturdays 7 am–12<br />
noon. 519-271-5130. www.stratfordfairgrounds.com<br />
Revival House is serving Winter/Spring dinners<br />
Thursday–Saturday and a Weekend Brunch<br />
11am–2pm both days. A special Brunch Buffet<br />
will be offered celebrating Easter (<strong>April</strong> 21)<br />
and Mother’s Day (May 12) from 10am–2pm.<br />
Reservations recommended.<br />
Revival House is also serving up amazing<br />
live entertainment. The Stratford Symphony<br />
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />
Orchestra presents more of the Classical Brunch<br />
series on Sundays <strong>April</strong> 14 and May 5 at 11:30am.<br />
The $40 admission includes a special brunch<br />
menu, musical performance and a $20 tax receipt<br />
(stratfordsymphonyorchestra.ca). Jully Black,<br />
“Canada’s Queen of R&B Soul” (CBC Music) will<br />
grace the Revival House stage for a show with<br />
her full band on Thursday, <strong>March</strong> 14. A Celtic<br />
Celebration concert will be hosted by Stratford’s<br />
own Rant Maggie Rant with a 2pm matinee<br />
performance on St Patrick’s Day, Sunday, <strong>March</strong><br />
17. Toronto’s Neil Young’uns return <strong>March</strong> 30,<br />
bring the audience “the closest you’ll ever get to<br />
the real Neil!” On Saturday, <strong>April</strong> 13, guests will<br />
groove to the 10-piece new roots reggae band The<br />
Human Rights. Two-time JUNO Award-winning<br />
singer-songwriter Hawksley Workman brings<br />
his signature blend of anthemic folk and showstopping<br />
vocals for one special night on May 21.<br />
Revival House offers limited pre-concert<br />
preferred seating. Enjoy dinner and the show from<br />
your seat! 519-273-3424, www.revival.house<br />
Around the Region<br />
McCully’s Hill Farm hosts a weekly Maple Syrup<br />
Festival in <strong>March</strong>. Sugar Bush Tours include a wagon<br />
ride through the sugar bush, a guided tour of our<br />
sugar shack and a visit with the farm animals. Enjoy<br />
Pancake Brunch served with McCully’s own maple<br />
syrup, McCully’s own maple pork sausage and maple<br />
baked beans and fruit. 10:30am–2pm, Saturdays and<br />
Sundays in <strong>March</strong>, 4074 Perth Line 9. 519 284-2564,<br />
visitstratford.ca/partner/McCullys-Hill-Farm<br />
Grand Bend’s Dark Horse Winery is hosting a St.<br />
Paddy’s Day celebration on <strong>March</strong> 17. visitstratford.<br />
ca/partner/Dark-Horse-Estate-Winery<br />
Tillsonburg’s Ottercreek Woodworks, founded by<br />
carpenter and craftsman Dave Schonberger, uses<br />
only local, sustainably-harvested hardwoods to<br />
fashion distinctive live-edge charcuterie boards.<br />
Popular “Tree to Table” board-making workshops are<br />
also offered. ottercreekwoodworks.myshopify.com<br />
Steelhead Food Co. recently moved into their own<br />
processing facility and are excited to offer fresh<br />
locally processed fish that is cleaned, cut and<br />
processed in-house. Based in St. Thomas, they<br />
offer a huge selection of premium quality fish and<br />
seafood — fresh, frozen, and smoked — to most of<br />
southwestern Ontario. steelheadfoodco.ca<br />
Ride the Bine provides local beer, wine, and cider<br />
tours. With a goal to get people closer to their<br />
food’s origins — owners Amanda Dooney and<br />
Susan Judd grew up on farms — Ride the Bine’s<br />
fleet of Mercedes-Benz Sprinters provide a safe
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />
and easy way to get to some of the coolest spots in<br />
Southwestern Ontario. Launched in Norfolk County<br />
with great success, Ride the Bine is expanding and<br />
now also showcases many London and surrounding<br />
area gems. ridethebine.com/london-tours<br />
The Village Teapot in Ilderton (see story this issue)<br />
continues their popular home-cooked Sunday<br />
Roasts with all the trimmings. Service is from<br />
noon–2pm and 5pm–7pm for $18.95 per person,<br />
and only $9.95 for children under 12. On <strong>April</strong> 7,<br />
there is Roast Chicken; May 12 (Mother’s Day, open<br />
evening only) is Roast Lamb; May 26 is Roast Beef;<br />
and June 16 (Father’s Day) is Prime Rib at $24.95.<br />
Vegetarian options are also available. Reservations<br />
are required. 519-298-TEAS (8327)<br />
The Bayfield Public House, the restaurant of the<br />
Bayfield Brewing Co. and adjacent to their soonto-open<br />
Tap Room, is now open. Historical charm<br />
meets craft beer and a unique dining experience,<br />
with feature beers like their own Canadian Pale Ale<br />
paired with gourmet dishes, delectable desserts,<br />
and cannot-miss specials. bayfieldbrewingco.com<br />
The <strong>2019</strong> Terroir Symposium in downtown Toronto<br />
will explore the choices we make and how they<br />
affect the growth, change and collective identity<br />
of the hospitality, food and beverage industry. The<br />
always-rewarding annual event will offer more<br />
main stage programming with 12-minute talks, two<br />
in-depth panel discussions, and six industry-focused<br />
workshops. terroirsymposium.com/overview<br />
LUNCH Wed to Fri 11:30–2:30<br />
DINNER from 5pm daily<br />
432 Richmond Street<br />
at Carling • London<br />
ALWAYS<br />
a 3-course prix fixe<br />
menu option<br />
www.davidsbistro.ca<br />
eatdrinkmag<br />
Did you know we are sharing “BUZZ” every day<br />
through social media? Follow us @ eatdrinkmag<br />
and join the conversation!<br />
We want your BUZZ!<br />
Do you have culinary news or upcoming events<br />
that you’d like us to share?<br />
Every issue, <strong>Eatdrink</strong> reaches more than<br />
50,000 readers across Southwestern Ontario<br />
in print, and thousands more online.<br />
Get in touch with us at<br />
editor@eatdrink.ca<br />
Deadline for submissions for the May/June issue is<br />
<strong>April</strong> 5.<br />
Over 300 Artisan Blends<br />
& Fine Spices<br />
No Wheat<br />
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60 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />
Books<br />
Tea for More than Two<br />
A Literary Tea Party<br />
by Alison Walsh<br />
Review by DARIN COOK<br />
My goal in this <strong>Eatdrink</strong> column<br />
has been to present various<br />
topics from the food industry<br />
that have been represented in<br />
titles across the global bookshelf. In her new<br />
book, A Literary Tea Party: Blends and Treats<br />
for Alice, Bilbo, Dorothy, Jo, and Book Lovers<br />
Everywhere (Skyhorse Publishing, 2018),<br />
Alison Walsh, a food blogger and lifelong<br />
reader, has taken a different approach by<br />
searching for what food can be drawn out<br />
of books. Starting with classic titles, she<br />
concocts tea and treat recipes inspired by the<br />
books’ meals, characters, or storylines.<br />
Certain recipes are born out of a character’s<br />
food preferences. Piglet’s love of “haycorns” in<br />
Winnie-the-Pooh led to Walsh’s interpretation<br />
of edible acorns by combining Asiago and<br />
Swiss cheese with crushed almonds. They are<br />
simple to make, look adorable on a platter,<br />
and taste delicious. These tiny savoury<br />
cheeseballs are paired with Hundred Acre tea<br />
(black tea featuring hazelnut, vanilla, and<br />
honeybush). Some recipes come from foods<br />
directly mentioned in a book, like the “muffs”<br />
(sweet potato and bacon puff<br />
pastries) made by Hannah in<br />
Little Women, or the Turkish<br />
delight and hot chocolate<br />
consumed by Edmund in<br />
The Lion, the Witch, and<br />
the Wardrobe. Others are<br />
conjured from a book’s<br />
theme, such as Star-crossed<br />
Focaccia, which has nothing<br />
to do with Romeo and Juliet<br />
except for the stars cut out<br />
of the dough to symbolize<br />
the lovers’ relationship in<br />
Shakespeare’s play.<br />
Most of the 45 recipes are<br />
paired<br />
with one of the<br />
23 tea blends or five alternative<br />
beverages, such as the Raspberry Cordial<br />
made famous in Anne of Green Gables. One<br />
pairing that honours The Wizard of Oz is that<br />
of Cyclone cookies with Emerald City tea<br />
(green-tinged herbal tea with peppermint,<br />
spearmint, and lemon grass). And there<br />
are Fairy Dust Star cookies paired with<br />
Second Star to the Right tea (Earl Grey tea<br />
with vanilla and lavender) to be served as<br />
“an in-flight snack while on your way to<br />
Neverland” while reading Peter Pan.<br />
Not everyone likes<br />
themed parties, but tea<br />
drinkers tend to love them<br />
a lot. A good deal of that<br />
attraction might stem from<br />
the Mad Hatter tea party<br />
scene in Alice in Wonderland.<br />
This iconic tea party has<br />
an obvious place in this<br />
book with a delightful<br />
menu, including Bread<br />
and Butterflies (dainty<br />
cucumber sandwiches<br />
shaped like butterflies) and<br />
Drink Me tea (white peony<br />
Author Alison Walsh
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />
tea with pear). Walsh suggests six other tea<br />
party ideas with appropriate menus, such<br />
as Aslan’s Feast featuring recipes specific to<br />
The Chronicles of Narnia or a Murder Most<br />
Delicious tea party with recipes based on<br />
Sherlock Holmes stories and Agatha Christie<br />
mysteries, including Blood Orange Scones and<br />
London Fog Lattes.<br />
Throughout the book, Walsh provides<br />
helpful tips she has stumbled upon in her<br />
recipe testing. For instance, when preparing<br />
Swiss roll type sandwiches, using oatmeal or<br />
potato bread allows for easier rolling because<br />
these have a higher moisture content and are<br />
less likely to dry out. When she gets into candy<br />
making with Peppermint Humbugs, to pay<br />
tribute to the word used by the curmudgeonly<br />
Scrooge in A Christmas Carol, she suggests<br />
coating your gloved hands and kitchen scissors<br />
<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 61<br />
with cooking spray to make it easier to work<br />
with the hot, sticky, melted sugar.<br />
As Sara Letourneau writes in the book’s<br />
introduction: “If literature is meant to reflect<br />
life, then why not use food, a part of our<br />
everyday lives, to make that reflection truly<br />
believable?” By drawing on her knowledge of<br />
literature and inserting quotes alongside her<br />
recipes, Walsh has invented tea party gems<br />
in her own kitchen and passed them on to<br />
all book lovers through A Literary Tea Party,<br />
proving that dishes inspired by fiction can<br />
become reality, because food is real, even in<br />
make-believe worlds.<br />
DARIN COOK is a freelance writer from Chatham who<br />
keeps himself well-read and well-fed by visiting the<br />
bookstores and restaurants of London.<br />
The Raven Cocktail<br />
Then this ebony bird beguiling my sad fancy into smiling,<br />
By the grave and stern decorum of the countenance it wore,<br />
“Though thy crest be shorn and shaven, thou,” I said, “art sure no craven,<br />
Ghastly grim and ancient Raven wandering from the Nightly shore —<br />
Tell me what thy lordly name is on the Night’s Plutonian shore!”<br />
Quoth the Raven “Nevermore.”<br />
Inspired by Edgar Allan Poe’s poem “The Raven”<br />
3 blackberries<br />
3–5 mint leaves (plus 2 extra sprigs for garnish)<br />
1 ½ oz white rum<br />
½ cup pomegranate juice, chilled<br />
Makes 1 cocktail<br />
Use a muddler to crush the blackberries and 3–5 mint<br />
leaves in the bottom of a cocktail shaker (I used 3 mint<br />
leaves).<br />
Pour in the rum and pomegranate juice. Secure the lid<br />
onto the shaker and shake to combine.<br />
Pour into a wine glass. Strain out the berry pulp and<br />
leaves or, if you prefer, leave them in. I like the visual<br />
effect and extra flavour they add, so I leave them in.<br />
Top with a sprig of mint and serve to a gloomy feathered<br />
friend.<br />
Recipe excerpted from Alison’s Wonderland<br />
Recipes: Recipes Inspired by Classic Literature<br />
(wonderlandrecipes.com) by Alison Walsh.<br />
All rights reserved.
62 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />
The Lighter Side<br />
Home is Where the Hygge Is<br />
By SUE SUTHERLAND-WOOD<br />
I<br />
was out shopping recently and happened<br />
to spend a few minutes browsing the<br />
shelves of scented candles. It was<br />
interesting to see how many of the<br />
choices were happy, nostalgic treats like<br />
sugar cookies, apple pie, and vanilla birthday<br />
cake. All instantly conjured up with the quick<br />
rasp of a match. This ties in nicely with the<br />
many popular books available which outline<br />
how to create what the Danes call “hygge”<br />
(pronounced hoo-gah), a now over-used buzz<br />
word that defines that<br />
snug feeling of cradling<br />
a mug of hot chocolate<br />
in front of the fire whilst<br />
wearing fancy socks that<br />
have never had cat hair<br />
on them.<br />
The reality is that while<br />
most of us absolutely<br />
do crave this feeling, we<br />
are also excruciatingly<br />
busy. When time permits<br />
(often at the ghastly hour of 10 pm when we<br />
may still be folding laundry by the light of the<br />
dryer) we still feel guilty about failing to do<br />
more, be better. Women are especially prone<br />
to this kind of anguish and tend to undervalue<br />
what they accomplish every day.<br />
Yet small things are important and their<br />
effect is cumulative.<br />
Despite now being over six feet tall, my own<br />
sons can still wax sentimental about going<br />
to the market when they were small. Even<br />
though I myself was often exhausted and<br />
shuffling with a coffee, they only remember<br />
The Cheese Ladies. These sparkling women<br />
took a genuine interest in them every<br />
Saturday and shaved off crumbly shards<br />
of Cheshire or offered squares of buttery<br />
Havarti, all the while earnestly listening.<br />
From Colby to New Zealand Cheddar they<br />
tried them all, and my eldest son began<br />
shyly bringing a drawing each week which<br />
the women proudly displayed till it curled<br />
and faded. Kindness and sincerity are good<br />
business partners, as it happens. We bought a<br />
lot of cheese!<br />
I was extremely moved recently by a tender<br />
anecdote delivered at a memorial service. A<br />
young woman, the eldest granddaughter, held<br />
everyone’s attention by eloquently describing<br />
the shivery chill of a wet bathing suit after<br />
a long afternoon of swimming, and her<br />
squealing delight as her grandmother wound<br />
her into a soft, thick towel which she had<br />
thoughtfully toasted<br />
in the dryer first. She<br />
was then presented<br />
with a cherry<br />
Popsicle, before<br />
skipping back to<br />
play. So simple. But<br />
it’s a feeling she can<br />
rekindle throughout<br />
her life: feeling loved,<br />
cared for, cherished.<br />
There are other<br />
things. A child’s excited pride in unclipping<br />
the Tupperware lid at soccer time. “Guys! It’s<br />
watermelon!” A friend of mine once marveled<br />
at her own mother’s help after the birth of<br />
a child. “She made chicken, she dried sheets<br />
outside. And she folded laundry perfectly —<br />
like they do in the store!”<br />
Many of us know and dread the endless<br />
preparations that go with camping. But<br />
ultimately, who remembers the homemade<br />
gourmet foil packets that cook uncertainly in<br />
the ashes of the fire for dinner? No one — not<br />
when there are s’mores!<br />
Light a scented candle by all means — but<br />
look carefully at your own life, gentle reader.<br />
You may already be creating far more hygge<br />
than you know.<br />
SUE SUTHERLAND-WOOD is a freelance writer and<br />
regular contributor to <strong>Eatdrink</strong>. Read more of Sue’s work<br />
on her blog www.speranzanow.com
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64 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />
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