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Eatdrink #76 March/April 2019

The Women's Issue. Local food & drink magazine serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario since 2007.

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Issue <strong>#76</strong> | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink<br />

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine<br />

The<br />

Women’s<br />

Issue<br />

Dedication<br />

Perspiration<br />

Motivation<br />

Inspiration<br />

Hospitality<br />

Eleanor Kane<br />

Co-founder,<br />

Stratford Chefs School<br />

Serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario since 2007<br />

www.eatdrink.ca


2 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

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#nextgen chefs are here<br />

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GREAT<br />

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FACEBOOK REVIEW<br />

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eatdrink<br />

4 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine<br />

eatdrinkmagazine<br />

@eatdrinkmag<br />

eatdrinkmag<br />

eatdrink.ca<br />

Think Global. Read Local.<br />

Publisher<br />

Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca<br />

Managing Editor Cecilia Buy – cbuy@eatdrink.ca<br />

Food Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca<br />

Copy Editor Kym Wolfe<br />

Social Media Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca<br />

Advertising Sales Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca<br />

Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca<br />

Stacey McDonald – stacey@eatdrink.ca<br />

Terry-Lynn “TL” Sim – TL@eatdrink.ca<br />

Finances<br />

Ann Cormier – finance@eatdrink.ca<br />

Graphics<br />

Chris McDonell, Cecilia Buy<br />

Writers<br />

Jane Antoniak, Gerry Blackwell,<br />

Tanya Chopp, Darin Cook,<br />

Gary Killops, Nancy Loucks-McSloy,<br />

Bryan Lavery, George Macke,<br />

Sue Sutherland Wood<br />

Photographers Bruce Fyfe, Steve Grimes<br />

Telephone & Fax 519-434-8349<br />

Mailing Address 525 Huron Street, London ON N5Y 4J6<br />

Website<br />

City Media, Cecilia Buy<br />

Printing<br />

Sportswood Printing<br />

OUR COVER<br />

Eleanor Kane of Stratford<br />

is the co-founder of the<br />

the nationally renowned<br />

Stratford Chefs School<br />

and a 2018 recipient<br />

of an Ontario Senior<br />

Achievement Award.<br />

Photo Courtesy of<br />

Stratford Chefs School<br />

© <strong>2019</strong> <strong>Eatdrink</strong> Inc. and the writers.<br />

All rights reserved.<br />

Reproduction or duplication of any material published in <strong>Eatdrink</strong><br />

or on <strong>Eatdrink</strong>.ca is strictly prohibited without the written permission<br />

of the Publisher. <strong>Eatdrink</strong> has a printed circulation of 20,000<br />

issues published six times annually in each of two markets, for a total<br />

of 240,000 copies in print. The views or opinions expressed in the<br />

information, content and/or advertisements published in <strong>Eatdrink</strong><br />

or online are solely those of the author(s) and do not necessarily<br />

represent those of the Publisher. The Publisher welcomes submissions<br />

but accepts no responsibility for unsolicited material.<br />

Serving up<br />

Great<br />

partnerships<br />

commercial | digital | wide format | design<br />

Let us help with your next project...<br />

519.866.5558 | ben@sportswood.on.ca<br />

www.sportswood.on.ca


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For More Information<br />

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Contents<br />

Issue <strong>#76</strong> | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

The Second Annual Women’s Issue<br />

Publisher’s Notes<br />

Wine<br />

The Women’s Issue Redux<br />

Our Second Annual Celebration<br />

By CHRIS McDONELL<br />

8<br />

40<br />

Remembering Michèle Bosc<br />

A Champion of Ontario Wine<br />

By GARY KILLOPS<br />

40<br />

Spotlight<br />

Music<br />

London Women in Food (<strong>2019</strong>)<br />

Ten Talented Women Making<br />

a Difference<br />

By KYM WOLFE<br />

10<br />

Stratford Women in Food (<strong>2019</strong>)<br />

Seven Sisters with a Seat at the Table<br />

By BRYAN LAVERY<br />

20<br />

Elgin Women in Food (<strong>2019</strong>)<br />

Six Women Leading the Way<br />

By TANYA CHOPP<br />

27<br />

Sarnia-Lambton/Huron County<br />

Women in Food (<strong>2019</strong>)<br />

Entrepreneurs in Good Taste<br />

By NANCY LOUCKS-McSLOY<br />

32<br />

Restaurants<br />

A Delicious Destination<br />

The Village Teapot, in Ilderton<br />

By JANE ANTONIAK<br />

18<br />

Beer<br />

If You Love it, Do it<br />

Women in Beer<br />

By GEORGE MACKE<br />

37<br />

37<br />

10<br />

20<br />

46<br />

32<br />

18<br />

I Feel it Coming<br />

Upcoming Musical Highlights<br />

By GERRY BLACKWELL<br />

43<br />

Theatre<br />

Dabbling in Wonderful<br />

Donna Feore on Work, Parenting<br />

& Inspiration<br />

By JANE ANTONIAK<br />

46<br />

The BUZZ<br />

Culinary Community Notes<br />

New and Notable<br />

50<br />

Books<br />

Tea for More than Two<br />

A Literary Tea Party<br />

Review by DARIN COOK<br />

60<br />

The Lighter Side<br />

Home is Where the Hygge Is<br />

By SUE SUTHERLAND WOOD<br />

62<br />

60


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 7<br />

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8 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

Publisher’s Notes<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

The Women’s Issue Redux<br />

Our Second Annual Celebration<br />

By CHRIS McDONELL<br />

There was no doubt that we would<br />

reprise our efforts to celebrate<br />

women in our culinary<br />

community after we received<br />

such a warm reception last year. As I<br />

noted then, while there has not been a<br />

single issue of <strong>Eatdrink</strong> ever published<br />

that didn’t acknowledge important<br />

contributions from women, the time<br />

had come to be more intentional and<br />

overt about that. Not that there weren’t<br />

some complaints, but by and large<br />

those disagreements surrounded<br />

the omissions we made, not who was profiled.<br />

Then, as now, there was just no way to include<br />

<strong>Eatdrink</strong> #70, <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> 2018<br />

all of the women worthy of celebration.<br />

The only helpful criteria that we could<br />

strictly employ in this round was to<br />

choose an entirely different list. I<br />

encourage you to avail yourself of our<br />

extensive online archive of magazines<br />

and articles on our website. Visit<br />

Issue #70 or search “women” and you<br />

can reread our profiles of a stalwart<br />

group that would easily qualify as<br />

outstanding candidates in <strong>2019</strong>. I’m<br />

not certain when a woman<br />

will be chosen to be profiled in<br />

this annual issue a second time, but for now<br />

previous selections are disqualified.<br />

spark<br />

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Poland, Baltic States & St. Petersburg<br />

21 days, Late August <strong>2019</strong><br />

Stylish and vibrant history and culture and the<br />

sheer grandeur of Russia’s imperial city<br />

Tanzania & Zanzibar<br />

14 days, September <strong>2019</strong><br />

10-day Serengeti & Tarangire National Parks<br />

Safari,, plus 4 days Beach Resort<br />

31 Nottinghill Gate, Suite 203,<br />

Oakville ON TICO#50013851<br />

Share the road, a few meals, and<br />

special moments with a small group.<br />

Europe • Asia • Africa • South America<br />

Call Heather for dates and prices.<br />

www.heathersincomparablejourneys.ca<br />

For any and all of your travel needs<br />

519-473-8591 — Heather Wilkinson<br />

Regional Office: 31 Nottinghill Gate, Suite 203, Oakville<br />

TICO#50013851


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

We have once again chosen a geographical<br />

focus for our groupings of women, and we’ve<br />

expanded the list to include four regions. Each<br />

writer has taken a slightly different approach,<br />

but I believe you will agree that this makes for<br />

more interesting reading. The biggest challenge,<br />

again, is tight space considerations, but we<br />

have endeavored to give readers a sense of what<br />

makes these women significant contributors to<br />

our local food and drink culture.<br />

It is International Women’s Day on <strong>March</strong><br />

8, but we’ll be celebrating this <strong>Eatdrink</strong> for a<br />

couple of months. We hope we might inspire<br />

similar efforts to honour the women in our<br />

lives, spanning the entire year. Let’s continue<br />

to do our best, respect the #metoo movement<br />

and political action for equality, and stand up<br />

for the most vulnerable women in our society.<br />

Many of them are in the hospitality industry,<br />

and in food production, and exciting changes<br />

are happening in these arenas. Support them.<br />

We’ve continued our Women’s theme<br />

throughout the magazine. Our restaurant<br />

profile of The Village Teapot is a highlight for<br />

me, as it is a quintessential women’s story<br />

as much as it is about a small town café. Our<br />

<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 9<br />

wine column is a remembrance and I am<br />

certain I won’t be the only one to wish I had<br />

known Michèle Bosc. Everyone excited about<br />

the craft beer renaissance will appreciate the<br />

insights on the industry from four young<br />

women currently immersed in it. The future<br />

looks bright, and will not be denied.<br />

Jane Antoniak’s interview of choreographer<br />

Donna Feore veers off the topic of the theatre<br />

in the way good conversations always do,<br />

circling back to the subject at hand but with<br />

myriad related thoughts shared. And our<br />

Lighter Side is another insightful musing from<br />

Sue Sutherland Wood, leaving us with the<br />

same sense of hygge (that’s all explained in the<br />

story!) that she writes about.<br />

I can’t reflect about women without acknowledging<br />

my wife Sue, my mother Nora, my<br />

daughter Tara, my five sisters Anne, Carolyn,<br />

Marjorie, Barb and Janet, and the women that<br />

make <strong>Eatdrink</strong> tick: Cecilia, Ann, Stacey, TL,<br />

Kym, Tracy, Tanya, Jane, Nancy and the other<br />

writers. Your strength is appreciated, and<br />

infectious, and I am grateful for you.<br />

Peace,<br />

#GetDTL #LDNENT<br />

Show your Mom some love this Mother’s Day with a gift of Downtown Dollars.


10 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Spotlight<br />

London Women in Food (<strong>2019</strong>)<br />

Ten Talented Women Making a Difference<br />

By KYM WOLFE<br />

Photo by Alieska Robles, alieskarobles.com<br />

Tabitha Bartlett<br />

Co-Owner/Operator,La Noisette Bakery & Deli<br />

“I grew up in a family that ate meat and<br />

potatoes,” says Tabitha Bartlett, co-owner/<br />

operator of La Noisette Bakery and Deli. “I<br />

started experimenting with different foods<br />

when I was about 10 — basic, but I had fun<br />

with it. I reached a point where I couldn’t<br />

teach myself anymore… I might be aging<br />

myself, but it was before YouTube and Google<br />

were the go-to for recipes. So I enrolled in the<br />

culinary program at Fanshawe.”<br />

Tabitha Bartlett & her daughter<br />

Fast forward through graduating with a<br />

diploma in Culinary Management, working<br />

in the industry for more than 15 years, and<br />

managing a large chain restaurant, all the<br />

while holding tight to “massive dreams of one<br />

day opening my own place.” Almost five years<br />

ago she finally did, with business partner Dave<br />

Coulter, an experienced Cordon Bleu chef.<br />

“I love that food brings people together, it’s<br />

common ground — no matter who you are or<br />

what you do, where you’re from, you need to<br />

eat. One good meal really can open up good<br />

conversation,” says Bartlett. “When I was<br />

very young, my grandparents nearly opened<br />

their own restaurant. It never happened, but I<br />

thought it was so cool at the time. It came back<br />

to mind when I was talking to my mother about<br />

growth for our business and what the next<br />

year may hold for us, and she told me that my<br />

grandfather would’ve been so proud of me. All<br />

the memories of the restaurant-that-never-was<br />

came rolling back. So now I feel a new sense of<br />

purpose for what I do.”<br />

Chandany Chen<br />

Pastry Chef, Abruzzi Ristorante<br />

Chandany Chen’s first degree was in Science,<br />

and when she graduated she worked for a<br />

while doing research for a company that<br />

produced fertilizer. But she quickly realized,<br />

“it was not for me. I only wish I had figured<br />

that out a lot sooner!” Back to school she<br />

went, and has since graduated from Fanshawe<br />

College’s Culinary Management program<br />

and worked in kitchens in London and Port<br />

Stanley before moving to Abbruzzi Ristorante<br />

a year and a half ago.<br />

“I am currently the pastry chef at Abruzzi and<br />

Chandany Chen


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

will also be the pastry chef at Abruzzi’s sister<br />

restaurant, Taverna 1331, when it opens later<br />

this year,” says Chen. “When the chance presents<br />

itself, I also search for ways to contribute to the<br />

community as a volunteer with Growing Chefs!<br />

as a food educator for school visits or as a chef<br />

for the cooking classes.”<br />

Chen has been a foodie from birth, she<br />

says. In her Cambodian household growing<br />

up, “we always had people in the house and<br />

everyone helped cook, from scratch, then we<br />

would enjoy the meal together. I always had<br />

an artistic side, too. Now I see every plate<br />

as a canvas, and I just want to try to make<br />

something beautiful out of it.”<br />

“I’d like to learn more, and I’m compiling a list<br />

of restaurants I would like to work in and pastry<br />

chefs that I would like to learn from,” she adds.<br />

“I’d like to bring those skills back to London.”<br />

Alexandra Connon<br />

Owner, The Boombox Bakeshop<br />

“I was taught how to bake by my late father<br />

Fred, and inspired by his passion for all things<br />

culinary,” says Alexandra Connon. After<br />

years of research and experimentation, she<br />

combined her father’s dream of operating a<br />

food establishment with her knowledge of<br />

vegan baking and business management, and<br />

opened The Boombox Bakeshop and café in<br />

2014. She also threw her passion for music<br />

into the mix. “You’ll never catch us without<br />

London’s New Culinary Adventure!<br />

African Breakfast<br />

Sundays<br />

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• FAMILY FRIENDLY<br />

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Recommended<br />

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www.tgsaddisababarestaurant.com<br />

Destination for the food lover<br />

Featuring specialty foods,<br />

kitchenwares, tablewares,<br />

cooking classes and gift baskets.<br />

115 King St., London Ontario<br />

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Alexandra Connor


12 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

tunes playing while we are busy baking and<br />

serving up drinks and treats,” she says.<br />

For the first four years the bakeshop<br />

specialized in vegan desserts — mainly<br />

cupcakes and mini-pies, along with a few<br />

seasonal goodies — but recently added<br />

savoury baked goods to the menu. “We always<br />

wanted to expand our menu to include lunch<br />

items, but we had space constraints,” says<br />

Connon. “Since we moved to our new space<br />

(on Adelaide Street at Princess Avenue) we<br />

have a larger kitchen and, one year in, we are<br />

ready to branch out.”<br />

The first offering, a mushroom and<br />

lentil pot pie, was an instant hit with both<br />

vegan and non-vegan clients, she says, and<br />

customers can expect to see more options<br />

going forward. “The Boombox Bakeshop has<br />

been shaped by the Old East Village and vegan<br />

communities, and we will always be a vegan<br />

shop — there is no meat, dairy or eggs on the<br />

premises. Our goal is to make great tasting<br />

vegan food for everyone to enjoy.”<br />

Margaret Coons<br />

Owner, Nuts for Cheese<br />

“I started experimenting with nut cheeses<br />

when I worked as a chef at the vegan<br />

restaurant Veg Out,” says Margaret Coons,<br />

owner and self-described “big cheese” at<br />

Nuts for Cheese. “The restaurant kitchen was<br />

actually my first production facility — I used<br />

to rent it after the restaurant closed and stay<br />

Margaret Coons<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

up through the night to create my cheeses.”<br />

Cheese-making might seem like an odd fit<br />

for someone with a BA in English Literature,<br />

but Coons is also a trained and certified vegan<br />

chef. “I became a vegetarian when I was 12 and<br />

started experimenting with food and cooking<br />

for myself at a young age,” she says. “The<br />

process of mindfully creating and delighting<br />

in food helps me stay rooted in the whole<br />

reason behind my business: a love of good,<br />

shared food.”<br />

Nuts for Cheese crafts dairy-free and vegan<br />

cheeses from cultured organic cashews. “I<br />

experimented with sunflower seeds, hemp<br />

hearts and miso, but I ended up sticking with<br />

cashews because they are really versatile,” says<br />

Coons. “Getting the texture and mouthful<br />

feeling just right is both a science and an<br />

art. For people who cannot or choose not to<br />

consume dairy, finding something to replace<br />

that rich, savoury experience of cheese is a<br />

challenging journey.”<br />

Her cheeses seem to have hit the mark,<br />

with word-of-mouth propelling distribution to<br />

stores across Ontario and into Quebec. “The<br />

rate at which we’ve grown has definitely been<br />

a huge manufacturing challenge,” says Coons,<br />

who is proud to note that all products are still<br />

hand-crafted, right here in London.<br />

Michele Lenhardt<br />

Pastry Chef, Rhino Lounge Bakery & Coffee<br />

Shoppe, Museum London<br />

“For me baking is an art form,” says Michele<br />

Lenhardt, whose passion for pasty-as-art has<br />

led her to positions as pastry chef in decidedly<br />

artistic settings — first at the Art Gallery of<br />

Ontario, and now at the Rhino Lounge Bakery<br />

& Coffee Shoppe at Museum London. After<br />

moving to London 12 years ago she created the<br />

Black Walnut Bakery Café in Wortley Village,<br />

which she owned and operated for five years<br />

before moving to her current position.<br />

“The most satisfying aspect of cooking and<br />

baking for me is creative experimentation<br />

and recipe development,” says Lenhardt, who<br />

studied Baking and Pastry Arts at George<br />

Brown College as well as Advanced French<br />

Patisserie. “It will often take two or three<br />

times to get it to where I want it to be. One<br />

of my specialties is the vegan donuts that<br />

I created for the Rhino.” They have proven<br />

to be popular, and are now also available<br />

at Locomotive Café — but only on Fridays.<br />

Lenhardt also produces pastries for Jess<br />

Jazey-Spoelstra’s North Moore Catering, The


“a gastronomical landmark for over 23 years”<br />

Booking<br />

NOW for<br />

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Michele Lenhardt<br />

River Room, and Craft Farmacy.<br />

When she’s not in the kitchen Lenhardt<br />

enjoys vintage shopping, for everything from<br />

clothing and housewares to artwork. And she<br />

has recently started working on a plant-based<br />

cookbook that will include all sorts of comfort<br />

foods. “I’m pretty passionate about plant-based<br />

cooking,” she says, and she’s enjoying the<br />

process of experimenting and developing the<br />

recipes. “I just started, so it’s a year or two away.”<br />

Jodie Marshall<br />

Co-owner, Marshall’s Pasta and Bakery<br />

Meet the Marshalls: Jodie has a degree in<br />

Applied Science, majoring in Consumer<br />

Behaviour; Blake played professional football<br />

with the Edmonton Eskimos; both come from<br />

families that had their own businesses. So<br />

Bistro & Catering<br />

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GRACERESTAURANTLONDON<br />

GRACELDNONT


14 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

perhaps it’s not surprising that in their post-<br />

CFL life the Marshalls would want to start a<br />

business themselves, that Jodie would handle<br />

the human relations and marketing, and that<br />

one of their biggest client groups would be<br />

local sports teams.<br />

Marshall’s Pasta Mill opened in 1995. Ten<br />

years ago the couple purchased Lusitania<br />

Bakery and moved their pasta business<br />

into the Adelaide Street store. With the<br />

complementary businesses under one roof,<br />

Marshall’s became a one-stop shop for a<br />

full pasta dinner with the fixings, offering a<br />

variety of fresh pastas and sauces, Portuguese<br />

breads, prepared meals, lasagna, soups,<br />

meatballs and more.<br />

Jodie runs the daily operations, from school<br />

hot lunches and group fundraising events, to<br />

walk-in customers and catering orders. There<br />

is also a wholesale side of the business that<br />

delivers freshly baked bread to local restaurants.<br />

“The two things that I find most satisfying<br />

about my job are that we make really good<br />

healthy food that people love, and that we are<br />

able to help others in our community,” says<br />

Jodie. “I am involved with different social<br />

justice committees and Marshall’s supports<br />

many charitable organizations. Helping<br />

others, whether it is through my business or<br />

in my personal life, is the most important<br />

thing for me.”<br />

Michelle Pierce Hamilton<br />

Owner, The Tea Lounge & beTeas<br />

When Michelle Pierce Hamilton worked in<br />

the financial and banking industry she visited<br />

tea places in different parts of the world, and<br />

was quite taken with the artistry and love<br />

demonstrated by the tea masters. “You just feel<br />

so peaceful,” she says. She started to seriously<br />

study tea when people who were close to her<br />

Michelle Pearce Hamilton<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

were diagnosed with chronic diseases, and she<br />

realized that constant travel and unhealthy<br />

eating and lifestyle were taking a toll on her<br />

and her family. “I felt a lack of control, and<br />

almost immediately I stopped smoking and<br />

eating fast food, and I started studying tea as a<br />

replacement for coffee, because I always had a<br />

warm beverage in my hand.”<br />

After training as a Nutritionist and a<br />

Certified Tea Sommelier she launched beTeas<br />

in 2010. The site educates people about the<br />

health benefits of tea, and the online store<br />

sells quality loose leaf teas, tisanes and<br />

functional tea ware. Teas are sourced from<br />

around the world, with a focus on single estate<br />

and artisanal teas from origin.<br />

Two years ago Pierce Hamilton opened The<br />

Tea Lounge on Piccadilly Street and created<br />

“the place I always wished I could go to” right<br />

here in London. Some of the décor comes<br />

from a Toronto restaurant that was run by her<br />

birth father. “His was the first Indo-Pakistani<br />

restaurant in Toronto,” she says. “He was never<br />

able to see the Tea Lounge in person before he<br />

passed away last year, but I had Skyped from<br />

there a few times, and he was delighted.”<br />

Dee Spencer<br />

Owner, The Donut Diva Mini Donut Food Truck<br />

A self-described “Professional Donutologist”,<br />

Dee Spencer has developed over 50 different<br />

recipes for her mini-donuts, ranging from<br />

basic to gourmet flavours like cheesecake or<br />

‘BetterTart’ (because it tastes better than<br />

butter tart, she says). You’ll find her selling<br />

her sweet treats out of Donut Diva food truck<br />

at different locations, mainly in London.<br />

She posts her changing whereabouts on her<br />

facebook page (fb.com/thedonutdiva)<br />

“I have been in the industry for about 35 years<br />

with jobs varying from server to general manager<br />

to corporate trainer and have always been<br />

an outside-of-the-box kind of gal,” says Spencer.<br />

“When I moved back to Ontario from Alberta<br />

and was looking at what I wanted to do I happened<br />

upon an episode of Dragons’ Den where<br />

a BC entrepreneur was pitching a Waffle Wagon<br />

franchise opportunity. After further investigation<br />

I decided that I could do something like that<br />

myself, and having loved mini-donuts at fairs<br />

out west I decided that was my niche.”<br />

She got her business rolling (literally!)<br />

in 2011. The Donut Diva Mini Donut Food<br />

Truck is equipped with a fryer where Spencer<br />

makes mini-donuts to order and serve them<br />

up warm, sprinkled with whichever sugary


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Dee Spencer<br />

topping the customer chooses. “They’re cake<br />

donuts, so they’re light and fluffy,” she says.<br />

Spencer is active in the London Food Truck<br />

Association, and says, “I am very proud of<br />

our Association as we are a group of elite<br />

professionals who believe in celebrating each<br />

other’s successes and working together to<br />

further the Food Truck culture in London.”<br />

Krista Trollope<br />

Owner and Cake Artist, Hey, Cupcake!<br />

Up until 11 years ago Krista Trollope worked<br />

full time in accounting and did baking and<br />

cake decorating as a hobby. “I started making<br />

custom cakes the year that myself and all<br />

my childhood friends reached one of our<br />

milestone birthdays. They all loved them,<br />

and said that I should start selling them,” she<br />

recalls. “I realized that the style of custom<br />

cakes I was creating — one-of-a-kind edible<br />

pieces of art with elaborate design and<br />

detailing — were not what people would<br />

SUNDAY BRUNCH<br />

11am−2pm<br />

Krista Trollope<br />

Open 7 Days a Week<br />

Mon/Tues 11:30-10, Wed/Thurs 11:30-11, Fri/Sat 11:30-12, Sun 11-10


16 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

walk in to purchase every day. So I decided to<br />

feature cupcakes, and I chose this location (on<br />

Wharncliffe Road) due to the proximity with<br />

Western, where I knew that a lot of students<br />

would be my main walk-in customers.”<br />

“Hey Cupcake was the first gourmet cupcake<br />

bakery in the city. Our slogan is ‘where art is a<br />

piece of cake’, and we still do custom cakes as<br />

well as cupcakes and cookies,” says Trollope.<br />

“In the beginning it was all self-taught, but<br />

now I have studied under many celebrity cake<br />

artists like Ron Ben-Israel, Susan Trianos,<br />

Karen Portelao and James Russell.”<br />

For Trollope, “The best part of my job is that<br />

I am afforded the opportunity to bring a smile<br />

to someone’s face just by using my hands, heart<br />

and artistry.” That includes working with Make-<br />

A-Wish, handing out cupcakes to children,<br />

caregivers and families at LHSC’s annual<br />

World Wish Day event, and her involvement<br />

in the Parkinson’s annual fundraising event<br />

Signatures: A Taste Test of London’s Best.<br />

Shauna Versloot<br />

Chef & Coach/Owner, The Live Well Community<br />

“When I was eight years old my mom was<br />

diagnosed with stage-4 breast cancer. As<br />

an only child I was so scared to lose her. A<br />

doctor said to me ‘Try to be as healthy as you<br />

can so that you don’t get sick someday’ and<br />

I took that to heart. Fitness, nutrition and<br />

healthy cooking became my life,” says Shauna<br />

Versloot, chef, coach and owner of The Live<br />

Well Community.<br />

With education in Fitness and Lifestyle<br />

Management (George Brown College),<br />

Nutrition and Psychology (Western<br />

University), and Culinary Arts (Fanshawe<br />

College), a National Coaching Certification,<br />

and a culinary apprenticeship at the London<br />

Hunt and Country Club, Versloot combined<br />

Shauna Versloot &<br />

daughter Tenley<br />

her passions for fitness and foods to create<br />

Live Well Community, with her husband Dan.<br />

“I realized over the years that the keys<br />

to success were all about balance and living<br />

well,” she says. The Versloots are passionate<br />

about living a healthy lifestyle, and have built<br />

a community of like-minded people who<br />

participate in Live Well’s workouts, cooking<br />

classes and community events. “I feel like life<br />

throws curveballs at us that we can’t control<br />

— like cancer — but we can control our<br />

health and enjoyment of life to some extent.”<br />

Versloot’s first food memories are of<br />

picking vegetables in her grandfather’s<br />

garden and helping her grandmother with<br />

family dinners. “My vegetable garden is still<br />

my biggest hobby to this day and preparing<br />

and sharing a meal with others — which is<br />

basically what we do in our cooking classes —<br />

is one of my favourite things to do.”<br />

KYM WOLFE is freelance writer based in London.<br />

Exceptional Food. Outstanding Service.<br />

Photo by Alieska Robles, alieskarobles.com<br />

NORTH MOORE CATERING LTD THE RIVER ROOM CAFÉ & PRIVATE DINING<br />

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www.northmoore.ca | www.theriverroom.ca<br />

519.850.2287 River Room | 519.850.5111 NMC /Rhino Lounge


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 17


18 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Restaurants<br />

A Delicious Destination<br />

The Village Teapot, in Ilderton<br />

By JANE ANTONIAK | Photos by BRUCE FYFE<br />

The<br />

millennial<br />

tea trend<br />

meets<br />

British pub food in<br />

an historic Ontario<br />

village house in<br />

Ilderton with the<br />

arrival of The Village<br />

Teapot. Add a splash<br />

of craft beer, wine and<br />

the occasional roast<br />

supper inside a cozy two-room parlour and<br />

you have the makings of a relaxing experience.<br />

The venture is the result of a new business<br />

partnership between two self-declared “moms”,<br />

Gaynor Deeks and Jana Yassine. They met<br />

through their children, who attended the same<br />

Oakridge neighbourhood school in London,<br />

developed a friendship and discovered they<br />

both had a passion for cooking. Deeks had<br />

operated a home daycare while Yassine was a<br />

full-time stay-at-home parent after managing a<br />

London hotel. Both had some customer service<br />

background and so when Deeks’s employment<br />

was winding down, they decided that the years<br />

of talking about opening a restaurant was ready<br />

to go to the next level.<br />

In early spring of 2017 they assumed the<br />

lease on an empty restaurant in an 1800s<br />

building in Ilderton<br />

after “falling in love<br />

with the house” says<br />

Deeks. Their families<br />

pitched in to help<br />

renovate the space,<br />

adding an accent of<br />

red throughout, with<br />

seating for 32. The<br />

hardwood floors and<br />

simple tables provide a<br />

cheery atmosphere.<br />

The Village Teapot<br />

opened in June 2017<br />

and the new business<br />

owners say they<br />

quickly learned their<br />

first hard lesson. “Get<br />

your feet wet first<br />

and learn the ropes of<br />

your business before<br />

your grand opening,”<br />

says Yassine. Deeks<br />

nods enthusiastically<br />

in agreement. “Do a<br />

soft opening,” is her<br />

advice to other first-time restaurant owners.<br />

However, neither have any regrets despite the<br />

exhaustion of serving 90 people in the first few<br />

hours of opening their doors. “I would just say<br />

go for it,” says Yassine. “We could have sat back<br />

with many reasons why we shouldn’t do it but<br />

we jumped in. We are confident we have a good<br />

product and, as they say, if you build it they will<br />

come,” she adds.<br />

They humbly describe their food as “honest<br />

and simple” but it is far more delightful then<br />

they give themselves credit for. Their signature<br />

scones are light and airy, served warm in several<br />

flavours: cheddar chive, raisin, cranberry<br />

lemon and plain. These are high quality, flavourful<br />

biscuit-like cakes that can be ordered<br />

on their own or as part of a Cream Tea service<br />

which includes clotted cream and preserves.<br />

The scones are also<br />

served alongside<br />

homemade soups, and<br />

sold for take-away by<br />

the dozen.<br />

Cornish pasty are<br />

also house-made.<br />

These famous British<br />

“all in one meal”<br />

pastry pockets are<br />

stuffed with a variety<br />

of fillings including<br />

ground beef with<br />

vegetables; spinach


<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 19<br />

and feta; sausage, scrambled egg, cheese and mushroom;<br />

and a vegetarian version that includes leeks, potatoes and<br />

seasonings in a creamy sauce.<br />

Another traditional British staple, the simple yet satisfying<br />

sausage roll, is a popular menu item which is also available for<br />

take-away. The duo also sell their sausage rolls and scones at<br />

the Ilderton Farmer’s Market in season. They are busy outside<br />

of the teahouse hours with catering.<br />

A traditional tea triple platter and a ploughman’s lunch is<br />

a lovely way to experience the Teapot’s yummy slow-roasted<br />

ham sandwiches alongside devilled egg, artisan cheeses<br />

with chutney, pickled onion, veggies with dip and desserts<br />

including Shaw’s Ice Cream, butter tarts, cookies and more.<br />

No afternoon tea is complete without a wide choice of<br />

teas. The Village Teapot offers at least 10 specialty teas in<br />

silk pyramid tea bags to enhance flavor release, served in<br />

individual red pots. “I feel like I’m in a candy store, taking<br />

the teas out of the jars”, says Deeks as she happily fills pots<br />

from the high bar counter. They also offer French press coffee,<br />

local craft beers and wines as well as sodas. Special occasion<br />

seasonal teas are planned for Easter and Mother’s Day. “Tea is<br />

really coming back with the younger age group,” says Yassine.<br />

A roast dinner is offered the first Sunday of the month. Past<br />

dinners have featured a traditional roast beef, lamb, and turkey.<br />

Both Deeks and Yassine share the cooking and front of<br />

house service roles with help from one staff member. This past<br />

year they had the honour of hosting CBC London Morning for<br />

a live remote broadcast. As well, they have put on a fashion<br />

show, bridal showers and hosted the popular Red Hat Society.<br />

Now, after almost a year in business, the women say what<br />

they enjoy most is the friendships they have made with<br />

customers, and being their own bosses. Their other advice to<br />

new business partners? “Make sure you really like each other,”<br />

says Yassine with a laugh. It is clear these two are successfully<br />

managing friendship with entrepreneurship while providing a<br />

delicious new destination.<br />

The Village Teapot<br />

13257 Ilderton Road, Ilderton<br />

519-298-TEAS (8327)<br />

villageteapot@gmail.com • www.thevillageteapot.ca<br />

wednesday to thursday: 10:30 am–3:30 pm<br />

friday: 10:30 am–7:30 pm<br />

saturday and sunday: 10 am–2 pm<br />

closed monday and tuesday<br />

JANE ANTONIAK is a regular contributor to <strong>Eatdrink</strong> and Communications<br />

Manager at King’s University College.<br />

BRUCE FYFE is a frequent photographer for <strong>Eatdrink</strong> and Head, User<br />

Experience & User Services, Western Libraries for Western University.<br />

TOP: Gaynor Deeks and Jana Yassine behind the counter at<br />

The Village Teapot in Ilderton.<br />

MIDDLE: The Ploughman’s Lunch: slow-roasted ham, artisan<br />

cheeses, pickled onion, crusty bread, fresh fruit.<br />

BOTTOM: Shaw’s ice cream served in a vintage teacup.


20 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Spotlight<br />

Stratford Women in Food (<strong>2019</strong>)<br />

Seven Sisters with a Seat at the Table<br />

By BRYAN LAVERY<br />

S<br />

tratford has no<br />

shortage of outstanding<br />

women<br />

who have made<br />

inroads into a milieu that<br />

has been traditionally maledominated.<br />

Many Stratford<br />

women come to their<br />

professions, in part, with<br />

dedication to improving<br />

the world through access<br />

to food. The following list<br />

of culinary stalwarts is just<br />

the tip of the iceberg.<br />

Anne Campion<br />

Anne Campion<br />

Owner & Barista, revel<br />

Anne Campion is committed to the core values<br />

of social justice by procuring and serving<br />

ethically and sustainably produced direct<br />

trade coffee. She can be seen pulling espresso<br />

shots or making consistently perfect cortados<br />

at revel, her busy coffee shop off Stratford’s<br />

Market Square. Behind the scene, she’s<br />

ensuring that her business is modelling all<br />

aspects of the ethical culinary conversation.<br />

“Our desire to be for the<br />

good of our community,<br />

both locally and globally,<br />

informs all our decisions,”<br />

says Campion.<br />

Launched with the<br />

assistance of just two staff<br />

people, Campion now<br />

employs 18. In addition to<br />

baristas and front of house<br />

staff, two pastry chefs now<br />

bake all of Revel’s pastries<br />

in house, using products<br />

from many local farmers.<br />

A formative coffee relationship<br />

with Las Chicas<br />

Dee Christensen<br />

del Cafe (read about the<br />

sisters behind this business<br />

in our “Elgin Women in Food”<br />

story in this issue), who developed<br />

signature Nicaraguan<br />

blends for revel, continues,<br />

while a new association with<br />

transcend coffee + roastery<br />

in Edmonton, AB (founded in<br />

2006 by Poul Mark) is opening<br />

doors for new growth.<br />

Working with transcend’s<br />

green buyer, Josh Hockin,<br />

and an all-female roasting<br />

team led by Kate Sortland has<br />

allowed an expansion of revel’s<br />

exclusive coffee offerings. In<br />

the fall of 2018, Don Moncho<br />

from Costa Rica was featured. This winter,<br />

Rudy Perez from Guatemala was introduced.<br />

There will soon be another new coffee from<br />

Costa Rica, and Campion is especially excited<br />

about bringing in an exclusive coffee from<br />

Ethiopia later this spring.<br />

Building direct trade relationships with<br />

coffee growers through her partnerships with<br />

Las Chicas del Cafe and transcend coffee, and<br />

joining forces with other<br />

businesses to support local<br />

community initiatives, is as<br />

fundamental to Campion’s<br />

business as ensuring the<br />

proper brew and pour of the<br />

next great cup of coffee at<br />

revel.<br />

Dee Christensen<br />

Owner, The Planet Diner<br />

Restaurateur Dee Christensen<br />

is a writer, social advocate<br />

and the former owner/editorin-chief<br />

of Recovery Wire<br />

Magazine, a leading addiction<br />

magazine. Christensen used


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

her life experience as well as an academic<br />

background in Criminology and Social Work<br />

to establish the common interest publication.<br />

Fortified with hospitality experience and a<br />

background that includes experience as a<br />

financial manager for the field of commercial<br />

design and a Commercial Investment Analyst,<br />

Christensen conceptualized and opened The<br />

Planet Diner in 2018. With red metal flake<br />

upholstered booths and a 1950s vibe, the<br />

26-seat carnivore-friendly vegan diner with a<br />

14-seat seasonal patio is warm and welcoming<br />

with enthusiastic and well-informed staff.<br />

Christensen says, “This is where herbivores can<br />

bring their carnivore friends.” Most items on<br />

the menu are derived from plant-based foods<br />

with a few meat-based options. The fledgling<br />

diner has been a success since it opened.<br />

Michelle Hern<br />

Owner, Olive Your Favourites<br />

Michelle Hern became an entrepreneur later in<br />

life after already having had a successful career.<br />

Nearly a decade ago, while visiting her sister<br />

in Traverse City, Michigan, Hern discovered<br />

an upscale speciality shop offering unique<br />

and exceptional quality extra virgin olive<br />

oils (EVOO) sourced from around the world.<br />

Customers were invited to taste oils before<br />

purchasing from stainless containers called<br />

fustis. On subsequent visits, she would sample<br />

and purchase oils and vinegars that she offered<br />

to her friends and colleagues to taste. In the<br />

spring of 2011 while eating a salad prepared<br />

with the oils and vinegars she had purchased,<br />

she noticed the supplier’s contact information<br />

on the bottle and decided to contact them.<br />

Hern ended up talking to the CEO of the<br />

company and made pages of notes. Looking<br />

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www.stonetowncheese.com


22 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

for an entrepreneurial opportunity she began<br />

a laborious mission to find a perfect location<br />

for a store. With equal parts determination<br />

and passion she found the optimal location on<br />

York Street facing the Avon River to showcase<br />

her products. Olive Your Favourites carries<br />

dozens of types of EVOO, some infused<br />

with pure fruits and herbs, as well as dark<br />

and white balsamic vinegars. The latter are<br />

also pure products and made from grapes<br />

in Modena, Italy. Hern’s knowledgeable and<br />

down-to-earth approach and the ability to<br />

hire friendly, intelligent and well-versed<br />

sales personnel have led the business to<br />

tremendous success.<br />

Buffy Illingworth<br />

Owner, Edison Café Bar<br />

Buffy Illingworth’s mother Gail, an early<br />

advocate for vegetarianism and plant-based<br />

cuisine, graduated from Stratford Chef<br />

School’s in 1986. Gail held many respected<br />

chef positions in area restaurants before her<br />

passing in 2005. It was a love she passed on<br />

to her daughter. “Her passion for the culinary<br />

arts and expertise in food styling continues to<br />

inspire me,” says Illingworth.<br />

The sophisticated and cozy Edison Café<br />

Bar opened in October 2016 after months<br />

of renovations by Illingworth and her<br />

husband Greg Kuepfer. “I pulled from all my<br />

passions when creating Edison Café Bar,” says<br />

Illingworth who envisioned a whole foods<br />

café with a menu focused on clean eating.<br />

The result is innovative, compact and stylish,<br />

where patrons can feel good about what they<br />

are eating and drinking.<br />

Although Illingworth and Kuepfer can<br />

both boast a long relationship with food,<br />

it was Illingworth’s background in Design<br />

and Holistic Nutrition that inspired them<br />

Buffy Illingworth<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

to open Edison’s. Illingworth took her time<br />

researching cafés, sourcing the best suppliers<br />

and creating the sophisticated interior.<br />

Born and raised in Stratford, Illingworth<br />

is no stranger to business. With a formal<br />

education in Horticulture and Garden Design,<br />

she operated her own thriving flower shop,<br />

designing floral arrangements for hundreds<br />

of weddings and events. The couple’s children<br />

all have played an integral role in helping to<br />

shape the family business. “We keep hours<br />

that reflect a well-balanced work week and<br />

allow us to be home for dinner with them<br />

every night,” says Illingworth.<br />

Eleanor Kane<br />

Co-founder, Stratford Chefs School<br />

Eleanor Kane is Ontario’s equivalent of<br />

American culinary icon Alice Waters, a<br />

comparison and opinion that is rooted in<br />

watching her numerous achievements over<br />

a 35-year period. In what began in 1977 as a<br />

“self-directed sabbatical from work,” Kane<br />

and business<br />

partner Marion<br />

Isherwood<br />

opened The Old<br />

Prune (then a<br />

tea room) in<br />

Stratford, which<br />

led to successful<br />

careers as<br />

restaurateurs.<br />

Later, with<br />

James Morris<br />

of Rundles<br />

Restaurant,<br />

Kane co-founded<br />

the Stratford<br />

Chefs School, an<br />

enterprise that<br />

evolved into<br />

Eleanor Kane<br />

a widely recognized pioneering restaurantfocused<br />

training program.<br />

A University of Alberta graduate (Masters<br />

of Science, Psychology), Kane also brought<br />

decades of restaurant experience as well<br />

as human resources skills to her work<br />

at Stratford Chefs School. A recipient of<br />

numerous accolades and awards, Kane<br />

remains in an advisory capacity on the<br />

Board. Recent Stratford Chef School’s<br />

International Guest Chef in Residence, Ryan<br />

Brown, described his immense respect for<br />

Kane, with her elegance, strong presence,<br />

and love for all things relating to gastronomy.


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Carole Rowe<br />

Carole Rowe<br />

Owner, Watson’s Chelsea Bazaar<br />

Watson’s Chelsea Bazaar is a long-standing<br />

Stratford establishment, well known and<br />

loved by many for its quirky mix of housewares<br />

and<br />

gifts. It<br />

provides a<br />

unique shopping<br />

experience<br />

and is<br />

friendly and<br />

inviting. As<br />

a “bazaar” it<br />

has a little bit<br />

of everything,<br />

from useful<br />

kitchenware<br />

and European<br />

imported<br />

ceramics to<br />

glassware and<br />

unusual finds<br />

for your home. The proprietor of the shop is<br />

Carole Rowe, the fourth generation of this<br />

family business.<br />

Started by Carole’s great grandfather in<br />

1895, when he decided to leave undertaking<br />

and embrace retail, the business has evolved<br />

and taken some twists and turns over the<br />

years. Today Rowe, along with dedicated staff<br />

and family, works hard to bring it all together.<br />

“We are aware, in this day and age, everything<br />

can be bought online for the lowest price and<br />

maximum convenience… Everything except<br />

a unique experience,” says Rowe. “We try to<br />

keep the essence of the store what it has always<br />

been: old fashioned, in the best kind of way,<br />

and always interesting.”<br />

Rowe fondly remembers her dad, David<br />

Bradshaw, always saying, “It’s a fun business,”<br />

and for the most part, it has been. “I think my<br />

great grandfather would be very pleased to<br />

know that, almost 125 years later, the business<br />

is still going strong and still fun,” says Rowe.<br />

Shelley Windsor<br />

Vice-President, Windsor Hospitality Inc.<br />

Shelley Windsor is the Vice President Windsor<br />

Hospitality Inc., co-owner of Mercer Kitchen/<br />

Beer Hall /Hotel, The Prune Restaurant & Bar<br />

One-Fifty-One as well as York Street Kitchen.<br />

Windsor is the former owner of Best Western<br />

The Parlour Historic Inn & Suites and owner/<br />

director of Best Western London Airport Inn<br />

Continued on page 26 ...<br />

Trust...<br />

Taste...<br />

Quality...<br />

At Metzger’s,<br />

we follow Old World<br />

recipes to create healthy and<br />

wholesome foods. We hand select<br />

dry aged Ontario Prime and AAA<br />

Beef and offer superior local Pork,<br />

Poultry and Lamb. We are especially<br />

proud of our own handcrafted<br />

artisan-style meats and salamis. We<br />

are confident that you will taste the<br />

Metzger Meats difference.<br />

Open six days a week.<br />

Hensall, Ontario<br />

Just off Hwy 4,<br />

45 minutes north of London.<br />

www.metzgermeats.com<br />

519-262-3130<br />

Available in London at<br />

The Village Meat Shop<br />

at Western Fair Farmers’ Market<br />

on Saturdays!<br />

Local Beef • Pork • Lamb • Poultry<br />

Specialty European Meat Products


Stratford is<br />

more than<br />

great theatre<br />

visitstratford.ca<br />

um<br />

A restaurant inspired by<br />

local ingredients.<br />

Run by workers.<br />

Owned by workers.<br />

Shared by the Community.<br />

Open Thursday through Monday<br />

Reservations Recommended<br />

64 Wellington St, Stratford<br />

redrabbitresto.com<br />

519.305.6464<br />

@redrabbitresto<br />

global tapas with local ingredients<br />

fresh cocktails<br />

Perfect for dinner, drinks and long conversations<br />

Thursday through Sunday from 5pm<br />

85 Downie St, Stratford<br />

(next to Avon Theatre)<br />

519.305.8585<br />

85Downie.com<br />

REGISTER<br />

NOW<br />

<strong>2019</strong> SEASON | Join us for hands-on<br />

cooking classes and learning<br />

experiences devoted to dedicated<br />

home cooks and food-lovers.<br />

OVER 120 CLASSES | Classes average<br />

3 hours in length and are offered<br />

year round at a variety of skill levels<br />

and price ranges. Class details and<br />

registration on our website.<br />

stratfordchef.com


“A fun place to shop<br />

for housewares and gifts!”<br />

Live Vivid<br />

with vibrant colours and patterns<br />

French Bull melamine tableware<br />

WATSON’S<br />

CHELSEA BAZAAR<br />

84 Ontario St. Stratford<br />

watsonsofstratford.com<br />

519-273-1790


eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Shelley Windsor<br />

Continued from page 23 ...<br />

and Suites. Having worked in just about every<br />

operational position in a hotel, some of her<br />

past positions have included Sales and Catering<br />

Manager, Director of Human Resource<br />

Services, Director of Sales, front desk clerk<br />

and bed & breakfast owner/operator.<br />

Windsor is also known for her community<br />

involvement on volunteer boards and<br />

committees, which have included the Stratford<br />

Tourism Alliance, Stratford and District<br />

Chamber of Commerce, Stratford Hockey<br />

Club, and, as a Marketing Chair, Best Western<br />

Ontario Quebec Co-op. Her philosophy of<br />

giving back to the community where you<br />

live and work has paid off by the support of<br />

locals in many of the Windsor Hospitality’s<br />

endeavours. Windsor’s day-to-day routine<br />

includes being involved in the short and long<br />

term planning of all of Windsor Hospitality<br />

businesses, research and development for<br />

new projects, human resources, customer<br />

services and public relations, sales marketing<br />

and social media. Windsor also specializes<br />

in re-positioning restaurants to achieve a<br />

healthier bottom line. Involved in hospitality<br />

and food and beverage consulting for other<br />

restaurants needing assistance, Windsor likes<br />

to mentor other women in business.<br />

<strong>Eatdrink</strong> Food Editor and Writer at Large BRYAN<br />

LAVERY brings years of experience in the restaurant,<br />

hospitality and tourism industry as a chef, restaurateur<br />

and partner at the Lavery Culinary Group. He helps shape<br />

<strong>Eatdrink</strong> both under his byline and behind the scenes.


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 27<br />

Spotlight<br />

Elgin Women in Food (<strong>2019</strong>)<br />

Six Women Leading the Way<br />

As Told to TANYA CHOPP<br />

We interviewed six visionary Elgin<br />

County business owners on what<br />

it’s like to be running creative<br />

and challenging operations<br />

in food, hospitality and agriculture. We also<br />

asked them to describe women in business.<br />

While no two answers were exactly the same,<br />

there were some definite themes: Women in<br />

business have to be as resilient as they are<br />

driven, as passionate as they are nurturing<br />

and creative. Together, these women represent<br />

over a century of combined experience in food,<br />

hospitality and farming. Every business is more<br />

than a decade old, while some are nearing 40 or<br />

50 years of operation.<br />

Maria Fiallos and Val Fiallos-<br />

Soliman<br />

Las Chicas Del Cafe, St. Thomas<br />

Women in business, in three words:<br />

“Passionate. Brave. Challenging.”<br />

Val: When it comes to our business, what<br />

lights my fire is knowing that failing is<br />

not an option. We know how many people<br />

depend on the business continuing. It’s<br />

very close to us, from the relationships we<br />

have to the small coffee growers that we<br />

buy from, to seeing our grandfather and our<br />

dad go through being coffee growers as well.<br />

We’re so linked to their struggle.<br />

Maria: For me, roasting is a mixture of<br />

science and art. On the science side, there’s<br />

the chemical changes that happen in the<br />

coffee bean as you’re roasting, including<br />

caramelization, and dehydration. You have<br />

to understand how sugars behave, what<br />

density, temperature and airflow can do<br />

to influence your roast — and every bean,<br />

depending on its origin.<br />

Val: I think for us, one thing that<br />

differentiates us is that not only are we<br />

connected to the origin (part of the coffee<br />

we bring in is from our dad’s farm), it’s also<br />

the approach we take with our customers.<br />

We’re very connected. It’s all personal.<br />

This past harvest was a real challenge. We<br />

didn’t finish receiving the harvest until<br />

mid-November. However, having those<br />

tight relationships with our coffee partners<br />

was truly valuable. They were really<br />

understanding, knowing that what going on<br />

was beyond our control, but the quality of<br />

the beans was still very important.<br />

Maria: Personally, without sounding kind of<br />

cheesy or cliché, what I do really doesn’t feel<br />

like work, because there’s a greater purpose<br />

to our day than simply getting coffee orders<br />

out. Each day I’m thinking about the bigger<br />

picture: how we do justice to the coffee<br />

we’re roasting and make sure it’ll land in a<br />

place where it’ll be appreciated. And I don’t<br />

just mean that we want someone to think<br />

it’s delicious, we also want customers to feel<br />

Sisters Maria Fiallos, left,<br />

and Val Fiallos-Soliman


28 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

that connection and that they’re proud to<br />

have our coffee in their establishment.<br />

Running your own business, being selfemployed,<br />

is probably the most stressful.<br />

Your everyday challenges can range<br />

from big to absolutely terrifying. But,<br />

when there’s a bigger picture — like Val<br />

mentioned — there’s no option for us to<br />

say that it just won’t work. So we’re always<br />

focused on how we can get over the next<br />

hump. I don’t get hung up on those small<br />

everyday challenges because they’re really<br />

just a small step to get onto bigger steps of<br />

running a business.<br />

Maria: When it comes to the impact we<br />

hope to make, an important aspect of<br />

the business for us is that we help foster<br />

awareness. Sometimes, for people spending<br />

$15 to $20 on a pound of coffee, it can seem<br />

like a luxury item, but when you bring<br />

forth everything that’s involved in that<br />

pound of coffee and the repercussions,<br />

from where it’s produced, to how baristas<br />

are being paid, to how families who are<br />

working on plantations can benefit from a<br />

good market price, you can see how it’s a<br />

win-win situation. Awareness offers a segue<br />

into really caring more about the products<br />

we consume in general, whether it’s meat<br />

products, leather, food, coffee or more.<br />

Val: We have a direct relationship with our<br />

retailers and aim to be connected to our<br />

consumers. So for us, it all comes down to<br />

helping people to take that coffee home<br />

and be absolutely in love with what they’re<br />

tasting. That’s how we’ve been able to<br />

really grow. We don’t have the finances and<br />

resources and big marketing campaigns or<br />

fancy packaging, but we’ve really focused<br />

on offering quality coffee.<br />

Kim Saunders<br />

The Windjammer Inn, Port Stanley<br />

Women in business, in three words: “Resilient.<br />

Persistent. Nurturing.”<br />

My work is my passion. I call it a lifestyle, not<br />

a career. I love working with food and drinks,<br />

experimenting, creating, feeding people —<br />

discovering new ingredients, combinations,<br />

exploring authentic recipes, and delving into<br />

the rich culture of food. My work feeds my soul,<br />

my heart, and my mind. It is never the same<br />

day twice, which always keeps it interesting!<br />

I work with a palette of tastes and textures<br />

as well as colours and visuals. Every dish has<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Kim Saunders<br />

a little of my heart and soul in it and although<br />

the end results don’t physically last (hopefully<br />

they get eaten!) the memory created is also<br />

part of the art.<br />

I feel whole when working in a kitchen. It<br />

helps to balance and focus me. I love noticing<br />

the nuances of a dish or ingredient as it comes<br />

together, the sounds, smells, tastes and<br />

sight of food and cooking comforts me and<br />

energizes me. I find it truly satisfying at the<br />

end of the day, knowing that I have put my<br />

time and energy into something that affects<br />

those around me in a productive, positive way.<br />

Food links us all through time and space.<br />

Restaurants connect a network of farmers<br />

and suppliers with the guests. We create<br />

experiences and memories that tie us all<br />

together into a larger whole. Food is central<br />

in most cultures to celebrations and comfort.<br />

In times of joy and sorrow, prosperity and<br />

challenge, we gather around the table and<br />

eat. We bring people together, teach and<br />

tempt, satisfy the hunger physically, and often<br />

emotionally ... All in a day’s work!<br />

Brenda Smith<br />

Pinecroft Green Frog Tearoom, Aylmer<br />

Women in business, in three words: “Sincere.<br />

Engaged. Driven.”<br />

We find satisfaction in providing a unique<br />

experience for our customers: from the freshly<br />

prepared menu to the visual experience of the<br />

entire property. Providing good value for their<br />

money, and making sure that our business is a<br />

great place to work for our employees. Since we


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

are a “public relations service industry,” I strive<br />

to make everyone’s experience the best it can be.<br />

Pinecroft opened in May, 1948 as a pottery<br />

studio, and remains the longest continuously<br />

Brenda Smith<br />

<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 29<br />

make me over zealous about food presentation,<br />

balance, and the ever important first impression<br />

of the food when it arrives at the table.<br />

When I’m at work, I feel empowered,<br />

energized and thankful. Every day, someone<br />

thanks us for what we offer at Pinecroft. From<br />

the moment someone drives in the laneway,<br />

they begin to evaluate the business. We<br />

endeavour to make it the best experience, and<br />

one that will bring them back because of our<br />

good service, great food and beautiful scenery.<br />

A complete package.<br />

operating studio in Canada. The tearoom was<br />

opened in 1978 by my mother and I to service<br />

the customers, who, at that time, were making<br />

a long drive out into the country to purchase<br />

our pottery. Both my son and daughter work<br />

with us in the business, with the intention<br />

that they will one day take over the operation.<br />

I love what I do, and I wouldn’t do it if I<br />

didn’t. Pinecroft represents a dream come true<br />

and a special place that, as a family, we are<br />

happy to share with everyone. After toughing<br />

out the first 35 years or so of running<br />

the restaurant, my son now manages the<br />

financial/business side, my daughter oversees<br />

all operations in the kitchen, my husbands<br />

bakes all the fresh bread and rolls and I<br />

continue to fill in where needed as cook, baker<br />

or sometimes server, while I am also filling the<br />

role of resident studio potter.<br />

There is an element to artistry to what I do,<br />

for sure. Being a ceramic artist first tends to<br />

Locally Sourced Ingredients<br />

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Organic Wine by the Glass or Bottle<br />

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Open for Lunch and Dinner<br />

Tuesday through Saturday<br />

www.fatolive.ca<br />

2135 Dorchester Rd., Dorchester<br />

519-268-0001<br />

A Landmark for<br />

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Gallery & Gift Shop<br />

9am–5pm<br />

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• Open 7 Days a Week •<br />

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519-773-3435<br />

www.pinecroft.ca


30 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

Suzanne Steed<br />

Steed & Co. Lavender,Central Elgin<br />

Women in business, in three words: “Creative.<br />

Determined. Confident.”<br />

With a passion for gardening and landscape<br />

design, I developed an agri-tourism business<br />

where we provide visitors with an experience<br />

for the senses. I have developed all of our<br />

handcrafted products as well as our culinary<br />

line of lavender inspired food products. I also<br />

manage the day-to-day operations at our farm.<br />

Operating a farm brings new challenges every<br />

day and there is always something going on. I<br />

enjoy these challenges, even though I sometimes<br />

struggle through the difficult ones. But when<br />

a visitor comes to me and says, “Thank you for<br />

creating a beautiful place to visit,” it makes me<br />

smile and feel very proud of what I do.<br />

There is absolutely an element of artistry<br />

in what I do! I take a lovely, fragrant herb<br />

(lavender) and create many specialty culinary<br />

products. For example using this herb in<br />

our culinary products can be tricky as it can<br />

overpower foods, so I’m always aiming to<br />

achieve a balance that is both interesting and<br />

enjoyable to the palate.<br />

When you’re a business owner, you’re<br />

always thinking about your business. I can’t<br />

describe what it’s like to be in the zone,<br />

because I’m never out of it. I’m always mulling<br />

over different ideas, conducting research and<br />

finding that inspiration comes to me at all<br />

hours, including in the middle of the night.<br />

Recently, I was thinking about our jams and<br />

Suzanne Steed<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

wondering about what a combination of<br />

lavender and orange would be like. How would<br />

the flavour interact with the citrus notes?<br />

With our culinary products, I create the<br />

recipes, and pass them along to production,<br />

but with our soaps, I’m often creating them<br />

— so I’m in a productive zone then too. Plus,<br />

when I’m out in the community, I find that<br />

my business has become part of my identity. I<br />

was just in the grocery store and had someone<br />

come up to me and ask, “Aren’t you the<br />

lavender lady?” My business is always there.<br />

It becomes a part of who you are, and I’m sure<br />

any business owner could relate.<br />

It always amazes me how people never think<br />

to consider lavender as an edible herb. After<br />

travelling through France, eating at French<br />

restaurants and speaking to many people who<br />

live there, I found that lavender is a popular<br />

ingredient in many dishes — from desserts to<br />

main courses featuring fish and chicken.<br />

Lavender is the same family as mint. If you<br />

look at a lavender spike, it’s square — and<br />

if you look at a mint stem, it’s square also.<br />

We’re familiar with mint’s strong flavour,<br />

and lavender’s strength is similar. However,<br />

lavender has the ability to really enhance<br />

flavours. We have a raspberry-strawberry<br />

preserve, and lavender picks up the raspberry<br />

and helps it pop. It also enhances the flavour<br />

of our dark chocolate, and the vanilla in our ice<br />

cream. It’s remarkable in that way: it enhances<br />

whatever you use it with, but adds a floral note.<br />

I hope that our lavender farm offers visitors<br />

an opportunity to escape from their hectic<br />

lives, to a peaceful rural setting, where they<br />

can stroll amongst the millions of beautiful<br />

lavender flowers from mid-June to mid-July.<br />

I encourage visitors to learn many of the great<br />

attributes this herb has to offer, including;<br />

growing, harvesting and cooking with lavender.<br />

Lauren Vandixhoorn<br />

SoLo on Main, Port Stanley<br />

Women in Business, in three words:<br />

“Empower. Inspire. Talent.”<br />

Knowing that my work in any aspect of the<br />

restaurant will result in a satisfied customer<br />

is what lights my fire. That’s what my work<br />

means to me too, that’s whole point: to make<br />

people happy. The music, the ingredients,<br />

drinks, the staff, decisions I make everyday<br />

are all for the good of the customer. It’s<br />

simple, and that’s what I like.<br />

I also want people to find that when they


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 31<br />

good, and then try my own version of it. A lot<br />

of chefs are inspired that way — by a dish that<br />

you start tweaking until it becomes yours.<br />

Good times are had at SoLo on Main! We’re<br />

inviting and we’re approachable. It’s just a<br />

chill place to enjoy some delicious, quality<br />

food, listen to awesome music and enjoy the<br />

view. I’ve worked very hard to make it so.<br />

TANYA CHOPP is a local writer and communications<br />

professional who enjoys exploring and writing on topics<br />

related to local food and culture, humour and fitness.<br />

Lauren Vandixhoorn<br />

dine here, there’s incredible value that goes<br />

into the experience they have. I believe that a<br />

restaurant provides more than just a place to<br />

eat — it offers a whole experience.<br />

I always knew that this is what I wanted<br />

to do. I grew up in Port Stanley, and I<br />

remember walking on the docks across from<br />

this restaurant with my friend when I was 15,<br />

talking about what we were going to do when<br />

we were older, and thinking, ”I’m going to own<br />

a restaurant for sure.” I always knew I’d be a<br />

chef. I’m the kind of person who has to be in<br />

charge, and when the opportunity came, I felt<br />

like I was ready and knew I could do it. When<br />

you’re put into a position where you have to<br />

do it, it just happens.<br />

There’s a level of workmanship in creating<br />

a menu, it has a flow, a balance. My menu has<br />

a personal touch that’s part of the vibe. It<br />

largely dictates the style of the restaurant.<br />

I’m inspired by the restaurants that I love<br />

to eat at, and even by social media. I might<br />

see a picture of something, feel like it looks<br />

EASTER<br />

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c-angelina@rogers.com


32 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Spotlight<br />

Sarnia-Lambton/Huron County<br />

Women in Food (<strong>2019</strong>)<br />

Entrepreneurs in Good Taste<br />

As Told to NANCY LOUCKS-McSLOY<br />

Berni Gelinas<br />

Kitchen Widgets, Sarnia<br />

In business since 1995, we are a gourmet<br />

kitchen store, catering to those who love to<br />

cook or want to make cooking easier. From<br />

cookware to bakeware, dinnerware, knives and<br />

widgets “we find the right tools for the right<br />

job.” Many of our products are Canadian-made.<br />

We provide the necessary items for<br />

preparation and serving of food and drink. We<br />

love birthdays, anniversaries, weddings and<br />

“just because” occasions so we also provide a<br />

gift registry.<br />

The fact that we are in our 24th year of<br />

business is very satisfying, but best of all are<br />

the many amazing people we have met during<br />

our journey.<br />

I am not really one to give advice. I feel<br />

that each situation is unique. Different times,<br />

different measures.<br />

We have worked hard during the past several<br />

years doing something we love. We were<br />

honoured to be the CGTA Retailer of the Year.<br />

I say “we” because I could never have done it<br />

without the people around me. You are only as<br />

good as the people you surround yourself with.<br />

Leanne Kavanagh<br />

Shopbike Coffee Roasters, Bayfield<br />

My partners and I dreamed up Shopbike one<br />

cold Bayfield winter, six years ago. We had<br />

a vision of a vibrant Bayfield surrounded by<br />

craft breweries and wineries. We pictured<br />

roasted coffee and a cute café, smack dab in<br />

the middle… so we ordered a coffee roaster,<br />

sourced green coffee beans and taught<br />

ourselves how to roast them.<br />

We have evolved in six years. We team meet at<br />

the end of every season, shave off what didn’t fit<br />

and dream up new ideas for next season.<br />

As an all-season business we have learned<br />

to enjoy the ebb and flow of Bayfield, super<br />

busy in the summer, slower in the winter.<br />

Leanne Kavanagh<br />

We have many local suppliers such as<br />

Ferguson Apiaries and Bayfield Maple Syrup as<br />

well as New Age Port Stanley, Culture Shock and<br />

others. We wholesale to places such as Cowbell<br />

Brewery in Blyth, The Black Dog Pub and Bistro<br />

in Kincardine, and Killer Cupcakes in Guelph.<br />

I develop roasts with our business partner/<br />

roaster Shaun Henry. I am also responsible for<br />

client relations, staffing, café creations, front<br />

of house, deliveries, bill paying, mopping<br />

floors, you name it! As a small business owner,<br />

you take it all on. I am also involved with the<br />

Bayfield and Area Chamber of Commerce as<br />

president 2018/<strong>2019</strong>. In my free time I work<br />

on the promotion of Bayfield as a food and<br />

drink destination for tourism.<br />

I love working with many other businesses,<br />

the unlimited coffee and the freedom to be<br />

creative.<br />

What made the choice easy for me was that I<br />

love coffee. I wanted to learn more, such as how<br />

to roast and how to make drinks. Most of all<br />

when I see someone enjoy something I helped<br />

create, it feels so good. If you love it, do it!<br />

My passions and drive have allowed me a<br />

lovely little life with my friends and daughter<br />

in one of the most beautiful places to live. I<br />

can hear the lake and drink a latte whenever I


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

want. It is not without dedication and hours<br />

in the day, but it is totally worth it.<br />

Anne Kurtz-Alton<br />

Alton Farms Estate Winery, Plympton-Wyoming<br />

My husband and I own a small vineyard and<br />

winery in Lambton county. In 2005 this city<br />

mouse moved to the country. The following<br />

spring we planted grapes with no experience<br />

or expertise. We began with one acre and by<br />

2013, with 6 acres behind us, we obtained<br />

our winery retail licence from the LCBO and<br />

<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 33<br />

opened the winery. To this day the planting,<br />

pruning, tying and picking is all done by hand.<br />

At harvest time we press the grapes through<br />

an Italian grape press, sometimes as much as<br />

20 tons in a season. When the wine is finished<br />

it is gravity fed into the bottles. The corks and<br />

labels are done singly.<br />

Along with the manufacturing of the wine, we<br />

sell our wine in our retail store and tasting bar as<br />

well as at LCBO stores and farmer’s markets.<br />

Most satisfying about the business? Naturally,<br />

the wine, the end product! Watching<br />

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Our new drink trail allows you to sip<br />

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Dark Horse Estate Winery<br />

Twin Pines Orchards<br />

& Cider House<br />

Widder Station Golf,<br />

Stonepicker Grill & Brewing Tap House Co.<br />

Refined Fool (2 locations)<br />

Stonepicker Brewing Co.<br />

Widder Station Golf, Grill & Tap House<br />

Munro Honey & Meadery<br />

Twin Pines Orchards & Cider House<br />

Alton Farms Estate Winery<br />

Dark Horse Estate Winery<br />

Wave Limousines & Tours<br />

Download the trail map at<br />

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Forest Glen Herb Farm<br />

Anne Kurtz-Alton<br />

people as they taste the wines, telling them<br />

our story and teaching them basic wine facts<br />

is very rewarding.<br />

Getting into the wine industry, especially,<br />

requires a lot of knowledge and skill. I had<br />

neither so it must be a passion. There are many<br />

different aspects to Ontario’s wine industry, all<br />

of which are equally challenging to both sexes.<br />

As a mother of five, my focus until 2005<br />

was my family. Since then I have learned<br />

many skills! Driving a tractor with no breaks,<br />

working heavy equipment, viticulture, wine<br />

making, marketing, accounting and retail, to<br />

name a few. I became a farmer.<br />

When I look back, I would have never<br />

dreamed of my husband Marc and I owning<br />

and running a winery and vineyard.<br />

Caitlin Vail<br />

Cait’s Café, Goderich<br />

Cait’s Café is a coffee shop in downtown<br />

Goderich specializing in European pastry and<br />

espresso beverages. We offer a full lunch menu<br />

of deli sandwiches, soups, salads and a variety<br />

of house-made treats such as muffins, cookies<br />

and squares.<br />

I am the owner/operator along with my<br />

husband Spencer. One of my major roles is<br />

to produce the baked goods. You will also<br />

find me scheduling employees, making<br />

espresso, clearing tables, washing dishes,<br />

ordering from local farmers and responding<br />

to catering inquiries.<br />

There are three things that are very satisfying<br />

about this business. Seeing how happy our


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

customers are. We have many regulars and the<br />

community support has been incredible. They<br />

love our place. With no family nearby for either<br />

of us, the community is our family.<br />

Working with local farmers and producers<br />

has been an honour for us. Knowing that<br />

our produce, eggs, cheese, coffee beans, etc.<br />

come from high quality sources is what sets<br />

us apart. We love the idea that when someone<br />

supports our business, they are supporting a<br />

string of other local businesses and producers.<br />

Lastly, seeing our staff strive and enjoy<br />

their working environment is very satisfying.<br />

Hearing them laugh and enjoy themselves<br />

is music to my ears. They work hard, so it is<br />

important to know they are also finding joy in<br />

what they do.<br />

While your passion can take you places, it<br />

is the hard work and perseverance that will<br />

take you all the way. You must be physically<br />

and mentally prepared, knowing that there<br />

is a lot of stress and long hours. If you have<br />

a strong work ethic, you can go far. Set<br />

measurable goals both long and short term,<br />

to keep you on track and to keep the business<br />

growing and exciting.<br />

I just became a mom to our beautiful<br />

daughter, Gabrielle. I joked with my husband<br />

that if you can start your own food and beverage<br />

business, you can do anything. I wasn’t quite<br />

prepared for motherhood, but it is rewarding.<br />

The community loves seeing her at the café.<br />

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36 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Melissa White<br />

Soups Up!/Sticky Fingers, Sarnia<br />

Upon graduating from college, I wanted<br />

my own business. I created a business plan<br />

and opened Sticky Fingers in 2003. I started<br />

off small, as my belief is to grow when you<br />

know what sells. In 2010 I took over the unit<br />

beside Sticky Fingers and prepared to open<br />

Soups Up! The day that it was to open I was<br />

hospitalized. That same day a woman drove<br />

into our newly renovated building. We opened<br />

after rebuilding in December 2010. We have<br />

“Where Everyone Knows<br />

You’re Game”<br />

Year Round Restaurant & Bar<br />

Using the Best of Local Ingredients<br />

from Neighbouring Producers<br />

72538 Hwy. 21, Zurich ON<br />

519-236-4030<br />

whitesquirrelgolfclub.com<br />

Melissa White<br />

since moved to 1143 Confederation Street, are<br />

busier than ever, and planning an expansion.<br />

We provide a large selection of homemade<br />

soups, kaisers and cinnaminis to our walk-in<br />

customers and through on-line ordering. We<br />

also have a catering business.<br />

From day one I have played a key role in<br />

all aspects of the café, from business plans to<br />

mopping floors as well as the catering business.<br />

Being my own boss and being creative are<br />

satisfying. Fighting for every dollar I make, I<br />

appreciate it more.<br />

Many times, I wanted to give up! People<br />

doubt you, so be tough and persevere. I am<br />

a people pleaser which is an advantage and<br />

a disadvantage. It upsets me when someone<br />

isn’t happy, but it has made me stronger and<br />

the business better by improving our ways.<br />

I have been nominated for and won several<br />

awards for “Young Entrepreneur of the Year”<br />

and “Outstanding Business of the Year”.<br />

Thank you to family, staff and customers.<br />

NANCY LOUCKS-MCSLOY is a freelance writer who<br />

loves cooking and entertaining. Her work has appeared in<br />

<strong>Eatdrink</strong> and many other publications.<br />

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eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Beer<br />

If You Love It, Do It<br />

Women in Beer<br />

by GEORGE MACKE<br />

<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 37<br />

First, there was water and grain. In<br />

the kitchens of ancient Egypt and<br />

Iraq, women knew exactly what to do.<br />

Make beer.<br />

A lot has changed in the 4,000 years since,<br />

but thanks to the craft beer revolution we’ve<br />

come full circle on at least one thing. Women<br />

in beer no longer means sexualization in<br />

advertising. It means brewing, bottling, and<br />

innovative marketing.<br />

Diana Salazar, head brewer at Forked<br />

River Brewing in London since 2015, took an<br />

international route. When the bartending<br />

classes she was taking in her native Colombia<br />

led to a microbrewery tour, she became<br />

focused on getting involved beyond serving.<br />

Salazar started searching for post-secondary<br />

brewing programs and landed at Niagara<br />

College.<br />

While her graduating year creation at<br />

Niagara was a wheat beer flavoured with<br />

tamarillo, Salazar’s personal taste in beer<br />

shifts frequently and now centres on IPAs<br />

instead of Scottish ales.<br />

“Women drink everything,” she said.<br />

That’s true, but differences are noted at<br />

craft beer festivals, often a person’s first<br />

experience with sampling the plethora of craft<br />

beers available. A man is more likely to ask<br />

to try a craft beer “like the big beer I’ve been<br />

drinking” while a woman might spy a fruit<br />

beer and start exploring from there.<br />

“It has more to do with beer knowledge<br />

than gender,” said Emily Ramsey, who works<br />

in post-fermentation (the position is called<br />

“cellarman” in some breweries) at Forked<br />

River.<br />

Ramsey, who learned on the job at Great<br />

Lakes Brewery in Toronto, said the image of<br />

craft breweries being workplaces for young,<br />

white males has changed a lot, thanks to<br />

groups and advocates such as the Society of<br />

Beer Drinking Ladies, the Pink Boots Society,<br />

and Queen of Craft. And Salazar notes<br />

Niagara College’s brewing program reserves<br />

three spots per semester for women.<br />

Craft brewery taprooms are not your<br />

grandmother’s ladies and escorts rooms.<br />

They’re community centres, with everything<br />

from beer yoga classes at Anderson Craft Ales<br />

in London to paint nights, trivia contests, and<br />

board games at various breweries.<br />

At Black Swan Brewing in Stratford,<br />

retail, brewery and social media assistant<br />

Post-fermentation worker Emily Ramsey, left, and<br />

head brewer Diana Salazar of Forked River Brewing in<br />

London are among the women playing key roles in the<br />

craft beer industry.


38 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

Meghan Landers is an assistant with retail, brewing and<br />

social media at Stratford’s Black Swan Brewing. “Even<br />

though you will face adversity, don’t let it stop you.”<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Meghan Landers said women enjoy pairing<br />

conversation with a new craft beer discovery<br />

or standby favourite.<br />

“I think the best thing about drinking in a<br />

brewery as a woman is when other women are<br />

there,” she said. “We go through a lot of the<br />

same experiences, so knowing other women<br />

are there is always comforting. If you see me<br />

behind the bar, you know I got you!”<br />

She also has a go-for-it attitude when it<br />

comes to landing a job in craft brewing.<br />

“As simple as it sounds, I would say if you<br />

love it, do it. Your passion and knowledge will<br />

always stand and even though you will face<br />

adversity, don’t let it stop you.”<br />

Aynsley Anderson of Anderson Craft Ales in<br />

London agreed.<br />

“All of our jobs can be done by any gender,”<br />

she said. “There are obviously role-specific<br />

qualifications, but otherwise the common<br />

thread is a person that is dedicated and<br />

genuinely interested in furthering the local,<br />

independent beer movement.”<br />

Gender neutrality extends to marketing and<br />

to a taproom drinking environment that’s more<br />

like a living room than an old school beer hall.


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 39<br />

“We don’t market specifically to any<br />

gender,” she said. “We market to people<br />

that are interested in a quality product<br />

and who want to enjoy it in a friendly and<br />

welcoming environment. Our aim is to<br />

foster an environment where people feel<br />

welcome chatting with our staff and family or<br />

alternately enjoying a quiet beer with friends,<br />

family, solo, etc. No pressure.”<br />

Still, there have been flashpoints with some<br />

craft breweries and their questionable choices<br />

of names for their beers — sexist names<br />

or labels which could cost breweries female<br />

customers.<br />

“All industries should be striving to market<br />

their product in a way that doesn’t offend<br />

people’s basic human rights,” Anderson said.<br />

“So, hopefully breweries will step up to think<br />

of more creative marketing techniques than<br />

the Mad Men or shock value approach.”<br />

GEORGE MACKE is a Southwestern Ontario craft beer<br />

explorer who spends too much time at the LCBO and craft<br />

breweries.<br />

Aynsley Anderson, a co-owner at Anderson Craft Ales in<br />

London, has the role of overseeing “big picture” social<br />

media, marketing and facilities plans. Above, she checks<br />

on the brewery’s products at the LCBO.<br />

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40 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Wine<br />

Remembering Michèle Bosc<br />

A Champion of Ontario Wine<br />

by GARY KILLOPS<br />

On January 10, the shocking news spread<br />

quickly via social media that Michèle Bosc<br />

had passed away following chemotherapy<br />

treatments after cancer surgery. She was a<br />

well-known figure in Ontario’s wine industry. The Bosc<br />

family own and operate Château des Charmes winery in<br />

Niagara-on-the-Lake. Michèle was VP of marketing and<br />

administration.<br />

Michèle Bosc was responsible for staff training<br />

and development, trade relations, advertising and<br />

marketing, as well as the guest experience and<br />

hospitality programs at the winery. She was also<br />

the winery representative on various marketing and<br />

tourism committees in the region.<br />

An engaging and passionate social marketer for the<br />

family’s winery, her last tweet was on New Year’s Eve.<br />

“Thank you for sharing all of the ways that you enjoyed<br />

our wines over the holiday season — it is truly the best<br />

gift that we could receive. Cheers to <strong>2019</strong>!”<br />

As word quickly spread, heartfelt messages of<br />

condolence, including these, were posted on the<br />

Château des Charmes Facebook page.<br />

“Our i4C family would like to share our profound<br />

sympathy with the Boscs, Michèle’s family and<br />

everyone at Château des Charmes. We are stunned and<br />

we grieve. And we also honour Michèle’s incredible<br />

commitment to our wine industry, and her indelible<br />

role as a communicator and ambassador.”<br />

— Cool Climate Chardonnay Celebration<br />

“Michèle was a valued colleague here in Niagara-onthe-Lake<br />

and her influence was also felt right across the<br />

Canadian wine landscape. She will be missed …”<br />

— Reif Estate Winery<br />

“Michèle Bosc was a beautiful example of what it<br />

means to give her everything to customer service,<br />

she was an ambassador to exemplary experiences at<br />

Château des Charmes, was so supportive to women in<br />

business and such a mentor to so many — especially<br />

those that worked closest with her at the winery.”<br />

— Cathy Davis<br />

Michèle Bosc, seen below with her husband Paul, was an inspiring<br />

ambassador for Ontario wines in her role with Château des Charmes.<br />

Photo by CL Buchanan


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

“To all of us women in wine, we have lost a<br />

strong, vibrant, inspirational, super intelligent,<br />

witty, leader. She was a guru of social media<br />

marketing in wine as an early adopter and then<br />

a market leader. As a colleague on the wine<br />

marketing council, her voice resonated with a<br />

true passion for our industry. So sad, she will<br />

be truly missed by so many.”<br />

— Danielle Giroux<br />

Michèle Bosc’s favourite quote about the<br />

family’s winery was “Making wine is not what<br />

we do, it’s who we are.” She was the<br />

wife of Paul Bosc Jr., the mother of<br />

their son Alex, and also a daughter<br />

and a sister. And an ambassador for<br />

the Ontario wine industry.<br />

In recognition of Michèle’s<br />

life and her contribution to the<br />

Ontario wine industry, here are<br />

some wine recommendations<br />

from her family’s winery.<br />

Château des Charmes Brut<br />

Sparkling (Vintages #224766,<br />

$25.95) — Michèle loved sparkling<br />

wine and was a promoter of<br />

Ontario bubbly. She was always<br />

Alton Farms<br />

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Saturdays<br />

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Grand<br />

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London<br />

77 km<br />

Available at the winery, select LCBOs & farmers’ markets<br />

5547 Aberarder Line, Plympton-Wyoming<br />

519-899-2479 • altonfarmsestatewinery.com<br />

An EPIC Wine Region<br />

that shares latitude,<br />

not attitude.<br />

We pride our winery experiences<br />

as being laid back and fun. Enjoy<br />

our scenic wine route by taking an<br />

unforgettable road trip, or if you’re<br />

feeling adventurous, pedal your way<br />

around the shores.<br />

Fun Fact!<br />

Our EPIC Wine Region shares the same<br />

latitude as some of the worlds most<br />

renowned wine making regions, including<br />

Tuscany.<br />

#WINERYQG<br />

visitwindsoressex.com


eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

excited to talk about Château des Charmes<br />

wines, especially this one. Produced the same<br />

way as Champagne, (traditional method)<br />

with Ontario chardonnay and pinot noir<br />

grapes, this dry (brut) effervescent wine<br />

offers apple and pear fruit notes with terrific<br />

acidity. Secondary fermentation occurs in the<br />

bottle and it is aged at least two years before<br />

disgorgement, resulting in the added bready<br />

notes and creamy texture. Michèle’s favourite<br />

food pairing for this wine was popcorn. It<br />

was elected as an LCBO Vintages Essential<br />

(a collection of approximately 100 fine wines<br />

and spirits from around the world that are<br />

proven favourites, represent the county and<br />

region well and are usually available.)<br />

SATURDAY, MARCH 30, <strong>2019</strong><br />

9AM – 4PM<br />

Wolf Performance Hall<br />

and adjacent Conference Rooms,<br />

Citi Plaza, London, Ontario<br />

251 Dundas St. London, ON<br />

• Shop Vendors<br />

• Tasting Workshops<br />

• Industry Speakers<br />

Celebrating Tea<br />

and Kombucha in<br />

London, Ontario<br />

Londonteafestival.ca<br />

LTKFinfo@gmail.com<br />

Château des Charmes Vidal<br />

Icewine (Vintages #565861, $27.96<br />

/ 200mL bottle) — The day after<br />

Michèle’s death, Château des<br />

Charmes had to harvest the grapes<br />

for the 2018 icewine. When it is ready<br />

to be released, there are plans in the<br />

works that this Icewine will have a<br />

special label in honour of Michèle.<br />

The 2017 vintage is currently<br />

available at LCBO stores and the<br />

winery. Super sweet, candied<br />

apricot, honey and marmalade.<br />

Michèle recommended pairing with<br />

crème brûlée.<br />

Château des Charmes Paul Bosc<br />

Estate Vineyard 2016 Pinot Noir<br />

(VINTAGES #332858, $38.95) — This<br />

is a good representation of a topshelf<br />

Ontario pinot noir. Red cherry<br />

fruit lead, with earthy forest floor<br />

and smoky notes. It is a mediumbodied<br />

wine that is elegant in old<br />

world style. Michèle’s pairing<br />

suggestion — herb-encrusted<br />

rack of lamb or cedar-planked<br />

salmon with a hoisin glaze.<br />

GARY KILLOPS is a CAPS Certified<br />

Sommelier who loves to talk, taste, and<br />

write about wine. He shares his tasting<br />

notes on EssexWineReview.com<br />

SPONSORED BY:


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Music<br />

I Feel it Coming<br />

Upcoming Highlights on the Music Scene<br />

<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 43<br />

By GERRY BLACKWELL<br />

Spring is in the air! Okay, maybe we’re<br />

still buried in snow and icy winds still<br />

blow, but the end is definitely in sight.<br />

It will get lighter, and milder. It will.<br />

In the meantime, we have music to warm us.<br />

Jeff Healey called him “the finest blues<br />

guitarist in Canada.” Bob Dylan said he’d be<br />

famous if he hailed from Chicago. They were<br />

talking about Jack de Keyzer. London Music<br />

Club has the Jack de Keyzer Duo on Thursday,<br />

<strong>March</strong> 21 (7:30 pm/8:30 pm). The man has two<br />

Junos, seven Maple Blues Awards and a 2018<br />

album, CheckMate, to showcase. De Keyzer<br />

needs to be heard, you need to hear him.<br />

Jack de Keyzer<br />

Speaking<br />

of Junos,<br />

the Canadian<br />

music<br />

industry’s<br />

<strong>2019</strong> Juno<br />

Awards<br />

show is<br />

coming to<br />

Budweiser<br />

Gardens,<br />

<strong>March</strong> 17 (8<br />

pm). CBC<br />

will televise<br />

it live, but<br />

you can be<br />

there. Sarah McLachlan hosts and scheduled<br />

performers include Loud Luxury and <strong>2019</strong><br />

Canadian Music Hall of Fame inductee Corey<br />

Hart. There will be others.<br />

TD Sunfest is bringing Rosie & The<br />

Riveters to the Cuckoo’s Nest Folk Club,<br />

aka Chaucer’s Pub, on Wednesday, <strong>March</strong> 20<br />

(7:30 pm). The trio’s 2018 album, Ms. Behave,<br />

rode the U.S. Top Ten folk music charts for<br />

17 weeks. Billboard called it “powerful and<br />

daring.” It’s music for the #MeToo era — “a<br />

collection of gritty, sultry, vintage-inspired<br />

folk anthems that paint a portrait of a<br />

woman’s voice in a man’s world.”<br />

Western Music’s lunchtime “Fridays 12:30”<br />

concert series winds up its season with Light<br />

of East Ensemble. The London-based septet<br />

plays von Kuster Hall (Music Building) on<br />

Friday, <strong>March</strong> 22 (12:30 pm). LoEE plays music<br />

of the Near and Middle East — Armenian,<br />

Greek, Sephardic, Arabic. Intrigued? Check<br />

out their latest album, Live at Aeolian Hall, at<br />

goo.gl/DD2yiN.<br />

Light of East Ensemble<br />

Rosie & The Riveters<br />

Come for the concert, (12:00-12:30 pm), and<br />

stay for lunch ($8). Upcoming Friday Lenten<br />

Noon Recitals And Lunch at First-St. Andrew’s<br />

United Church: Alastair Smyth, Baritone<br />

on <strong>March</strong> 22. Laudamus Bells, Terry Head,<br />

Director on <strong>March</strong> 29. Lynda Kennedy and<br />

Terry Head Piano Duo on <strong>April</strong> 5. Admission<br />

is by free will donation.


44 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

Sticking with world music, Sunfest is bringing<br />

Canadian flamenco-etcetera guitarist and<br />

composer Jesse Cook to Aeolian Hall on Friday,<br />

<strong>March</strong> 22 (7 pm/8 pm). Juno-winner Cook,<br />

born and partly raised in France, studied both<br />

flamenco and classical guitar. His music builds<br />

on those and other traditions, including jazz<br />

and Latin. If you love guitar, check him out (goo.<br />

gl/KFH9e7). He’s a master. (If you can’t make<br />

the London date, Cook is playing Brantford’s<br />

Sanderson Centre on Tuesday, <strong>March</strong> 19, 8 pm.)<br />

Bahamas<br />

Jesse Cook<br />

The last time multi-Juno-winning singersongwriter<br />

Bahamas (Afie Jurvanen) came<br />

to town, his shows sold out quickly. London<br />

Music Hall has the popular troubadour,<br />

along with opener Ben Rogers, on Tuesday,<br />

<strong>March</strong> 26 (7 pm/8 pm). My guess: if you like<br />

Bahamas, you’ll like Rogers. The latter is a<br />

little more traditional Americana, but with<br />

similarly catchy, intelligent songs. Bahamas<br />

is touring his 2018 album, Earthtones. Rogers’<br />

latest, Wildfire, drops in <strong>March</strong>.<br />

Hometown sweetheart Denise Pelley<br />

appears with The Ken Foster Quartet, part<br />

of the free Jazz for the People concert series<br />

at Wolf Performance Hall (Central Library). It<br />

goes Wednesday, <strong>March</strong> 27 (7:15 pm–8:45 pm).<br />

For more free concerts: goo.gl/F5ePKS. Did we<br />

mention they’re free?<br />

London Symphonia, the reincarnation of<br />

Orchestra London, offers an intriguing program<br />

on Tuesday, <strong>April</strong> 2 at the Talbot Street Church<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

(7:30 pm).<br />

Percussion<br />

soloist<br />

Beverley<br />

Johnston —<br />

vibraphone<br />

and cloud<br />

gongs! —<br />

joins the<br />

orchestra’s<br />

strings<br />

for Greek-<br />

Canadian<br />

Denise Pelley<br />

composer<br />

Christos Hatzi’s piece, Mirage. Rounding out the<br />

program, concert master Joseph Lanza takes a<br />

solo turn on some much more familiar music by<br />

Vivaldi. (For more LS concerts: goo.gl/LEFZMA.)<br />

Jazz fans take note. There’s a new band in<br />

town — well, sort of new. The London Jazz<br />

Sextet, formed with members of London’s<br />

Prime Time Big Band, debuts at London<br />

Music Club on Thursday, <strong>April</strong> 4 (7 pm/8<br />

pm). Expect the classics — Davis, Coltrane,<br />

Adderly, Monk, etc. — but in fresh new<br />

arrangements by the band.<br />

The Jeffery Concerts, the long-running<br />

chamber music series, presents one of London’s<br />

own musical treasures. World-renowned violist<br />

Sharon Wei appears in “Sharon Wei & Friends”<br />

at Wolf Performance Hall, Friday, <strong>April</strong> 5 (8 pm).<br />

Wei, who has worked with great orchestras and<br />

conductors, is a professor at Western’s music<br />

school. The program includes music by Hummel,<br />

Mendelsshon and lesser known early-Romantic<br />

composer Bernhard Heinrich Romberg. (For<br />

more Jeffery concerts: goo.gl/ct9Hst.)<br />

Canadian blues guitar mainstay Colin James<br />

comes to the Bud on Monday, <strong>April</strong> 8 (7:30 pm).<br />

James has been on a roll lately with two wellreceived<br />

and best-selling albums, 2016’s Blue<br />

Highways and 2018’s Miles To Go. Both spent<br />

time on roots/blues charts in Canada and the<br />

U.S. James has been at it a long time. Now, it<br />

seems, he’s an overnight sensation.<br />

The international success of her 2014 album,<br />

Compostela, took singer-songwriter Jenn<br />

Grant around the world. She’s back home now,<br />

touring with music from her 2017 follow-up,<br />

Paradise. Grant is at Aeolian Hall, Thursday,<br />

<strong>April</strong> 11 (7 pm/8 pm). Sometime collaborator<br />

Buck 65 (aka CBC Radio 2 DJ Rich Terfry) called<br />

her “one of the best singers in the world.” True?<br />

Come and find out. (If you miss her at Aeolian,<br />

Grant plays Dominion Telegraph in Paris on<br />

Thursday, <strong>April</strong> 18, 7 pm.)


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

I’ve asked the question before: how does<br />

little Brantford get premier acts that never<br />

make it to London? Brantford’s Sanderson<br />

Centre has jazz star Sonja Gustafson with<br />

Mitchell & Kathryn Baran Family Foundation<br />

present<br />

Jenn Grant<br />

the Jim Clayton Quartet on Monday, <strong>April</strong><br />

15 (8 pm). Two nights later, same time, it’s pop<br />

music legend Chubby Checker. The guy must<br />

be about 100, but apparently still twists the<br />

night away. Brantford is only an hour away.<br />

American alt-rocker Neko Case, once<br />

and still occasionally lead singer of Canada’s<br />

New Pornographers, hits London Music Hall<br />

on Sunday, <strong>April</strong> 21 (7 pm). Case is touring<br />

her solo Hell-On album, released last year to<br />

strong reviews. It was recorded in Stockholm,<br />

Sweden. (We’re not sure why either.) Edgy,<br />

vaguely punk aesthetic.<br />

The Grand Theatre closes out its season<br />

with a revival of Mamma Mia!, the hit movie<br />

with soundtrack by Abba that found new life<br />

as a stage musical. Harmless, slightly sappy<br />

fun, catchy tunes.<br />

The Magisterra at the Museum chamber<br />

music series finishes up on Thursday, May 2<br />

(7 pm) at Museum London with “Eight.” The<br />

concert features members of the Londonbased<br />

collective founded and directed by<br />

German-born violinist Annette-Barbara<br />

Vogel. It features octets and sextets by<br />

Brahms and Brahms protégé Ferdinand<br />

Theriot, and a new commissioned work by<br />

local composer Edgar Suski.<br />

ARTY-PARTY<br />

& SILENT ART<br />

AUCTION<br />

In support of Unity Project & Museum London<br />

APRIL 27, <strong>2019</strong> @ 6 PM<br />

CENTRE AT THE FORKS - MUSEUM LONDON<br />

Buy tickets at:<br />

www.upwithart.ca<br />

Never heard of Swingrowers (pronounced<br />

swing growers)? Me neither. But if the folks<br />

at TD Sunfest think they’re worth bringing to<br />

Aeolian Hall — which they are, on Saturday,<br />

May 4 (7 pm/8 pm) — then I’m willing to listen.<br />

The vocal quartet, based in Palermo, Italy and<br />

Brighton, England, “blends the freshness of<br />

electronic dance music with the warm influences<br />

of 1920s and ’30’s era jazz to create a unique<br />

vintage-inspired pop sound.” Okay. Preview<br />

here: swingrowers.com. They are kind of fun.<br />

Swingrowers<br />

Wait, is that summer I see peaking over the<br />

horizon?<br />

Neko Case<br />

GERRY BLACKWELL is a London-based freelance<br />

writer.


46 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Theatre<br />

Dabbling in Wonderful<br />

Donna Feore on Work, Parenting & Inspiration<br />

By JANE ANTONIAK<br />

The secret inspiration for Donna<br />

Feore’s artistry on the stage,<br />

choreographing and directing<br />

dancers, singers and actors in<br />

brilliant, high-energy unison, comes from<br />

an unexpected place. The award-winning,<br />

Stratford-based dynamo behind the success<br />

of shows such as Guys and Dolls, Rocky Horror<br />

Picture Show, the movie Mean Girls and the<br />

TV movie Eloise, sees dance and movement<br />

all around her. In particular, she finds<br />

creative inspiration from her deep love of<br />

sport. This interview was conducted while<br />

she was driving to Toronto to proudly cheer<br />

on her daughter Anna Feore, a Team Canada<br />

volleyball player who is in her final season<br />

with the University of Toronto Blues. On<br />

another day she might have been spectating at<br />

her son Tom’s fencing match when he was also<br />

Donna Feore<br />

an undergraduate varsity athlete at U of T, or<br />

cheering her older stepson Jack at soccer.<br />

“I just don’t trust an actor that doesn’t love<br />

something other than acting. There are so<br />

many cross-overs and parallels between arts<br />

and sports. I commiserate with Anna’s coach<br />

all the time at U of T. We talk about strategies:<br />

we have to mediate, motivate and inspire. It’s<br />

very similar. One thing is for sure, when an<br />

athlete or actor loves something else, they<br />

bring more to the table,” says Feore.<br />

The mother-daughter pair has a favourite<br />

hangout: courtside watching the Toronto<br />

Raptors of the National Basketball League.<br />

“What I love about basketball is that you’ve<br />

got these big lanky men, some over seven feet<br />

tall. Now you are on this tiny space and you<br />

watch how beautifully they move. They are<br />

so body aware of each other. It is a beautiful<br />

dance and they are pretty graceful. When<br />

I saw LeBron James — that got me<br />

excited,” says Feore. “I have been known<br />

to have a glass of wine or two and buy<br />

very expensive Raptors tickets. It is so<br />

invigorating — I love being there.”<br />

What Feore experiences watching<br />

the round ball on the small court she<br />

transfers to the thrust stage at the<br />

Festival Theatre at Stratford, where she<br />

is kicking off her 25th season. She is a<br />

wizard at three-dimensional choreography,<br />

using every inch of a stage that<br />

has the audience wrapped around it on<br />

three sides. Right now, the excitement<br />

is mounting for this season’s production<br />

of Billy Elliot the Musical, which is in<br />

rehearsals at Stratford under the direction<br />

and choreography of Feore and<br />

which features a cast of 44, including 11<br />

children. It is just one of seven productions<br />

she is working on in <strong>2019</strong>, from<br />

Stratford to New York City to Ottawa.<br />

“I’m kind of busy everywhere right<br />

now,” says Feore without a trace of<br />

Photo by Ann Baggley


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Photo credit: Stratford Festival Reviews<br />

fatigue. “Billy Elliot is really my prime focus<br />

right now. It’s the first out of the gate and<br />

the biggest prep. It’s a show that has 14<br />

production numbers. It’s crazy. It is a huge<br />

show. We did a Billy Bootcamp in January and<br />

did a week with some of our young company<br />

including with Nolen Dubuc, the Billy Elliot,<br />

and his understudy. We have some exciting<br />

things like flying — so we had a week of<br />

doing scene, dialect work and then we started<br />

rehearsals on February first.”<br />

Feore says it has taken a year of<br />

preparations for her famous reinvention of a<br />

popular musical to the thrust stage. “I only do<br />

those that I can reimagine,” she says. For her,<br />

working with an 11-year-old lead is exciting. “I<br />

learn a lot from young actors, watching how<br />

free they are. They don’t have that mileage on<br />

them. They are incredibly open.”<br />

At the same time, Feore is also directing and<br />

choreographing the second Stratford musical<br />

of <strong>2019</strong>, Little Shop of Horrors, at the Avon<br />

Theatre with a ’60s score and loads of special<br />

effects. “Our plant is off the charts crazy as<br />

only Stratford could do it,” she says. This is<br />

sure to be a hit with the same crowd that put<br />

Rocky Horror into the Stratford record books for<br />

longest run, and with huge financial success.<br />

Feore says one woman attended Rocky 42 times<br />

and several others saw it 30 times. She hopes it<br />

will now move to Toronto.<br />

“The hard drive is full,” laughs Feore when<br />

asked how she juggles two major shows<br />

alongside work in other cities. “I tell my<br />

assistant ‘download all the<br />

content from my brain’! I<br />

work with my associates,<br />

they are fantastic and have<br />

been with me for six to<br />

seven years. We have our<br />

system. They get all the<br />

information and record<br />

everything. Right away, we<br />

set four to five numbers<br />

and if there is dance in a<br />

show we do that early, as it<br />

takes stamina so people are<br />

healthy, strong. There’s a<br />

bit of a method to the madness, you know.”<br />

Her longtime friendship and collaboration<br />

with Stratford Artistic Director Antoni<br />

Cimolino is evident in his regard for her.<br />

“Donna is the master of musical theatre. We<br />

are so fortunate to have her return this season<br />

and take on the gargantuan task of helming<br />

two major productions at the same time. Her<br />

The Wildest Town in Canada:<br />

Donnelly Songs & Stories<br />

by Jeff Culbert May 21 to May 25<br />

Like Father, Like Son? Sorry.<br />

by Chris Gibbs May 28 to June 1<br />

<strong>2019</strong><br />

SEASON<br />

PortStanley<br />

FestivalTheatre<br />

(519) 782-4353 www.psft.ca<br />

work last year on The Music Man and The Rocky<br />

Horror Show was inspirational and I have no<br />

doubt that her productions this season will<br />

have us all seeing both of these musicals in a<br />

brand new light.”<br />

Fifty-five-year old Feore seems to thrive on<br />

the “madness”. She and<br />

The Feore family: from the left,<br />

her husband, acclaimed<br />

Tom, Donna, Jack, Anna & Colm<br />

actor Colm Feore, are also<br />

parents to 22-year-old<br />

Anna and 24-year-old<br />

Tom, a law student at U<br />

of T, as well 29-year-old<br />

Jack, Colm’s son from a<br />

previous marriage, who<br />

is getting married this<br />

summer in Nova Scotia.<br />

Donna Feore is fiercely<br />

proud of the three of<br />

them. “The whole team<br />

knows when my kids are doing something!<br />

Sometimes the whole crew watches a semifinal<br />

match on the computer if Anna is competing<br />

abroad. It’s all about priorities. For women,<br />

I think we can have it all but not at the same<br />

time. Stop trying. This can go and that can<br />

happen. That can go and this can happen. I call<br />

it dabbling in wonderful.”


48 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

She credits their decision to make<br />

Stratford a home base since 1997 as key to<br />

being able to manage two show business<br />

careers while raising a family. Feore says the<br />

location gives them room to breathe and that<br />

they actually enjoy the drives from Toronto<br />

Pearson airport to Stratford while Colm<br />

commutes to film shoots and she to stage<br />

and film work around the world. And, with<br />

her trademark big personality, she jokes that<br />

her choice in a husband was quite practical.<br />

“The other smart thing I did was marry a<br />

man who is an absolutely fabulous cook!<br />

First question when you meet someone is:<br />

do you golf, the answer is no then you carry<br />

on. Second question is do you cook and the<br />

answer is yes then you carry on!”<br />

Feore’s theatre work is vast and expanding.<br />

The hit The Hockey Sweater, the Musical that<br />

she directed and choreographed ran at the<br />

National Arts Centre in Ottawa, and is now<br />

being translated to French for the Montreal<br />

stage. She hopes that show will travel out west.<br />

She is developing a new musical in New York<br />

and another for Stratford, she hints, possibly<br />

for 2020. Her multi-media production, Life<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Reflected, will run on International Women’s<br />

Day in Ottawa, and she continues to work as a<br />

director with operas, including The Marriage of<br />

Figaro in Ottawa.<br />

Despite all her career success, Feore<br />

says that in the end she has a small target<br />

audience: her family. “Honestly: every choice<br />

I make in my life, from choices of what<br />

material I am going to do, what I won’t do, I<br />

think of my daughter. I want my daughter to<br />

be proud of me. Sometimes we have to make<br />

hard ones, and we have to speak up and have<br />

hard things to say. The one thing I’ve always<br />

taught my children is that there is a very big<br />

difference between assertive and aggressive.<br />

Being assertive is about being clear and it<br />

will take you a long way. There is nothing<br />

gray about me. I take the word director<br />

seriously — it has the word direct in it and<br />

it’s never been so important. Do what you<br />

mean and mean what you say.”<br />

JANE ANTONIAK is a regular contributor to <strong>Eatdrink</strong>.<br />

She is also Manager, Communications & Media Relations,<br />

at King’s University College in London.<br />

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eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 49<br />

The global smash-hit musical!<br />

“One of the most enduring musicals of our era.” now magazine<br />

“The ultimate feel-good tale of love conquering all.” the guardian<br />

<strong>April</strong> 23 to May 11<br />

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Music and Lyrics by Benny Andersson and<br />

Björn Ulvaeus<br />

And some songs with Stig Anderson<br />

Book by Catherine Johnson<br />

Originally Conceived by Judy Craymer<br />

Co-production with the Charlottetown<br />

Festival<br />

grandtheatre.com 519.672.8800<br />

season sponsor<br />

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50 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

The BUZZ<br />

Culinary Community Notes<br />

London<br />

Rembrandt Homes together with Bethanys Hope<br />

Foundation presents “Feast with Friends” featuring<br />

Food Network star Chef Michael Smith, on Thursday,<br />

<strong>April</strong> 25. Enjoy an “Interactive Dinner Party” that<br />

kicks off at London Convention Centre with 5pm<br />

cocktails, food stations hosted by London culinary<br />

luminaries, and a silent auction. A sit-down dinner<br />

service and program, including a live auction, starts<br />

at 7pm. Tickets are $200 and available online, or<br />

call 519-858-HOPE. This is an exciting time for<br />

Bethany’s Hope, with clinical trials imminent after<br />

more than two decades of groundbreaking research<br />

right here in London into the devastating disease of<br />

Metachromatic Leukodystrophy (MLD). If you have<br />

not yet seen the short video outlining the efforts<br />

of Lindey and David Mcintyre, who lost their child<br />

Bethany to MLD, go to bethanyscure.ca and prepare<br />

to be inspired. You can also see a video showing<br />

highlights of last year’s event. bethanyshope.org<br />

Angelina & Carmine Ianni, formerly of Pasquales in<br />

North London, have opened C’Angelina at 426 Third<br />

St. Tuesday–Friday, 1–6pm, they sell prepared foods<br />

and fresh meats and offer family-style catering —<br />

including BBQ whole pigs — for family reunions,<br />

weddings, or backyard parties. You also will find<br />

them, and their porchetta specialty, at London<br />

festivals this summer and at the Pinery Market in<br />

Grand Bend. facebook.com/cangelinameatcatering/<br />

While this might sound like heresy to those pining for<br />

Spring, Kevin Beattie and his team award-winning<br />

team at Somerset Fine Wines reminds us that it<br />

is never too early to start your Christmas wine! A<br />

common misconception is that making wine at an<br />

affordable price means it will taste “like homemade.”<br />

Drop in at 150 Exeter Road for expert guidance, or go<br />

to somersetfinewines.com to see their Spring Specials.<br />

Cream Beanery Cafe is a coffee and gelato shop,<br />

and more. They serve breakfast, lunch and supper,<br />

featuring daily homemade specials. Save room for a<br />

Gelato Panini — your favourite gelato flavour sealed<br />

inside a fresh brioche bun. Delicious! 825 Southdale<br />

Rd. W (at Tillman) creambeanery.com<br />

As reported by the CBC, a bad olive harvest, primarily<br />

due to the olive fly, plus a late harvest due to<br />

challenging conditions, has led to some shortages of<br />

quality extra virgin olive oil. Jamie Griffiths of The<br />

Pristine Olive let us know they have found a good supply<br />

from Spain, Sicily and California, as well as his first oil<br />

from Portugal. His store is at 884 Adelaide St N, with<br />

products also available at The Village Meat Shop at The<br />

Market at Western Fair on weekends. thepristineolive.ca<br />

The Church Key is Vanessa and Pete Willis’ downtown<br />

gastro-pub with farm-to-table cuisine and an<br />

impressive selection of craft beers. Chef Michael<br />

Anglestad follows in the modern British tradition by<br />

specializing in high quality food prepared with innovation<br />

and finesse. 476 Richmond St. thechurchkey.ca<br />

Unity Project for Relief of Homelessness provides<br />

emergency shelter, supportive housing and related<br />

services to help adults and youth avoid living on<br />

the street. Life skills are embedded into a home-like<br />

environment where programming for over a thousand<br />

individuals (annually) involves participants with<br />

personal accountability, taking care of themselves,<br />

481 Richmond Street<br />

519-432-4092<br />

garlicsoflondon.com


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

each other, and community. This year, the Unity<br />

Project announced a partnership with Museum<br />

London for the 9th annual UPwithART event to be held<br />

on <strong>April</strong> 27 at the new Centre at the Forks at Museum<br />

London, catered by North Moore Catering. UPwithART<br />

is Unity Project’s signature fundraiser and a significant<br />

charitable and art event in London. upwithart.ca<br />

The Regional HIV/AIDS Connection annual fundraiser<br />

“A Taste for Life” returns May 1st. Get involved by<br />

volunteering, donating, or dining out at a participating<br />

restaurant! Participating restaurants open their doors<br />

and donate 25% of their evening sales to AIDS service<br />

organizations in their community. atasteforlife.org<br />

Chef Kim Sutherland has done a stellar job<br />

transforming food services at Boler Mountain,<br />

offering a wide variety of healthy choices including<br />

Buddha bowls with vegan broth, housemade<br />

chicken and vegetarian chilli, and grab-and-go<br />

fresh wraps alongside a full line of hot foods aimed<br />

at hungry families, including a full breakfast. She<br />

nurtures a bee colony on site and has instituted an<br />

extensive landfill diversion program. Kudos! As well,<br />

Chef Kim leads the catering kitchen for weddings and<br />

special events at Boler. The popular new chalet is<br />

now booking into 2020. bolermountain.com<br />

TIME<br />

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52 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

The London Training Centre (LTC) Local Food<br />

Skills program connects people to food. Receiving<br />

solid food-based knowledge, participants explore<br />

options for working with food as a job or profession.<br />

This is a full-time three-week course that provides<br />

skills training, industry certifications and learning<br />

experiences including fundamental culinary skills,<br />

food service styles, growing, harvesting and retailing<br />

food at a farmers’ market. Revenue from the wildly<br />

popular Local Food Skills monthly dinners, put on<br />

by students, supports the program. londontraining.<br />

on.ca/local_food_skills.htm<br />

Natural Ingredients<br />

from Local Vendors<br />

Baked with Butter<br />

from Scratch In House<br />

Lovingly Crafted with Skill & Heart<br />

Owners Tabitha & Dave<br />

New York Style Bagels! Apple & Blueberry Fritters!<br />

900 Oxford Street East at Gammage<br />

519-601-1651<br />

Fanshawe College and downtown’s new flex street,<br />

Dundas Place, host a celebration of Canadian music,<br />

food and fun on <strong>March</strong> 15, noon–6pm, coinciding<br />

with JUNO Week (<strong>March</strong> 11–17). All members of the<br />

community, along with Fanshawe staff, students and<br />

alumni, are invited to attend. This free, family-friendly<br />

celebration will include live performances by Fanshawe<br />

Music Industry Arts students and graduates and feature<br />

JUNO-inspired appetizers prepared by The Chef’s Table<br />

for a $2 donation. fanshawec.ca/fanshawe-live.<br />

The Market at Western Fair is open Saturdays<br />

(8am–3pm) and Sundays (10am–2pm) every week.<br />

Market Manager Dan Ross and Assistant Manager<br />

Courtney Berens continue to grow attendance<br />

and improve the customer experience. Two floors<br />

and 100+ vendors make up the Market, each with<br />

unique products. Help support local and include<br />

@TheMarketWFD and use #MeetMeAtTheMarket<br />

when sharing on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter.<br />

westernfairdistrict.com/market<br />

Chef Andrew Wolwowicz’s commitment to freshness<br />

and the provenance of what is on the plate is one<br />

of the cornerstones of Craft Farmacy’s culinary<br />

philosophy. The focus is on craft beer, cocktails, a<br />

large selection of fresh oysters, shellfish and inspired<br />

rustic farm-to-table cuisine. Open for lunch and<br />

dinner Tuesday–Saturday, and Sundays for a prix fixe<br />

brunch and dinner. 449 Wharncliffe Rd, just north of<br />

Baseline. facebook.com/craftfarmacy<br />

Chef Angie Murphy and partner/sommelier Pete<br />

Annson have had some delays opening Grace,<br />

located at the southwest corner of Clarence and<br />

Dundas Streets. facebook.com/graceLDNONT/<br />

Field to Fork Caterer Chef Chad Stewart graduated<br />

college with Culinary Arts and Food & Beverage<br />

diplomas. In 2010, he moved to Vancouver to work at<br />

elite restaurants for the Olympics, including the first<br />

true 100-mile kitchen called Rain City Grill. Stewart<br />

worked at Garlic’s of London for five years and moved<br />

Hope Made Delicious.<br />

atasteforlife.org<br />

Thank you for supporting those<br />

living with, a ected by, and at-risk for HIV/AIDS.<br />

HOPE<br />

WED<br />

w<br />

WEDNESDAY, MAY 1<br />

Where Will You Dine?<br />

25% of sales will be donated to RHAC.


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

In Memoriam<br />

Angelo Stavrou, 1943–<strong>2019</strong><br />

Owner of Merla Mae Ice Cream, London<br />

He was owner of a number<br />

of successful businesses, but<br />

became beloved by ice cream<br />

lovers young and old when he<br />

stepped in to save a London<br />

institution in 1998. Angelo<br />

Stavrou remained hands on<br />

at Merla Mae Ice Cream Catering until for Special Events,<br />

his recent battle with Company cancer, & Family Christmas<br />

arriving early every day Parties, to do Schools whatever & Sports needed Teams<br />

doing. “Always give more We deliver. than what Full Service the portion Available.<br />

sizes are,” he instructed his daughter Roula<br />

Dereza, who carries on Fresh at Merla Homemade Mae. “He Pasta loved &<br />

Sauces, Meatballs, Lasagnas<br />

taking care of his customers,” said Roula. “He was<br />

and so much more!<br />

on top of his business. And a family man like no<br />

other.” Angelo Stavrou will be sadly missed.<br />

up the ranks to head chef. For the last three years,<br />

Stewart has been a caterer and part time technician<br />

for Fanshawe’s Culinary Management Program. Now<br />

Stewart and his wife Catherine are launching London’s<br />

newest food truck, the Field to Truck Mobile Eatery, just<br />

in time for the JUNO Awards. fieldtoforkcatering.ca<br />

Welcome Reset Social Cafe to downtown London! This<br />

is a new hot-spot for fresh food, coffee and premium<br />

juices, under the Azure condo building at 503 Talbot St.<br />

The vibrant setting makes for a perfect spot to recharge,<br />

relax and reset your day. resetsocial.cafe<br />

Anita Tasonyi and Eduard Nagy are now operating<br />

Budapest Restaurant and making upgrades to the<br />

iconic gem. Protégés of the late Marika Hayek, they<br />

continue to delight clients by serving authentic<br />

Hungarian specialities in this traditional old-world<br />

tavern setting. Try the schnitzel or the stuffed veal —<br />

the spätzle and goulash are also delicious — and save<br />

room for the palacsinta. 348 Dundas St., 519-439-3431<br />

Jess Jazey-Spoelstra’s River Room, inside Museum<br />

London, has banks of tinted windows with panoramic<br />

views overlooking the Forks of the Thames. With<br />

a clubby ambience, tailored décor and charming<br />

attitude, The River Room is open for lunch Tuesday–<br />

Friday, and Sundays for a prix fixe brunch. Museum<br />

London, Ridout St. N. northmoore.ca/theriverroom<br />

Rio Brazilian Steakhouse, located in one of London’s<br />

most historic buildings, boasts a kitchen at the top of<br />

its game. Doors open for their “rodizio” — all-youcan-eat<br />

churrascaria served tableside by charming<br />

gauchos — and an extensive selection of sides at<br />

5pm daily. 45 King Street (at Ridout), rio.london<br />

Bring back “homemade”<br />

again with Marshall’s Pasta!<br />

Quality<br />

Convenient<br />

Meals<br />

Fresh Homemade Pasta & Sauces,<br />

Meatballs, Lasagnas and so much more!<br />

Text<br />

MARSHALLS<br />

to 70734 for a<br />

$5.00 Off Coupon<br />

to be used in-store!<br />

Fully Cooked<br />

Family Dinner for 4!<br />

Choose Your Pasta Tray<br />

& Sauce + Garlic Bread<br />

$21 .99<br />

Pick up Hot and<br />

Ready to Eat!<br />

580 Adelaide St N, London<br />

519-672-7827<br />

MON–FRI 9:30am–7pm • SAT 9:30am–5pm • SUN 11am–5pm<br />

Full menu available at marshallspastacatering.ca<br />

Loose Leaf Teas & Tisanes<br />

•<br />

Contemporary & Traditional Teaware<br />

•<br />

Fresh Soups, Salads, Cheese Boards,<br />

Fresh-baked Scones,<br />

Curry’s<br />

Indian Cuisine<br />

& Tea Pairing Dinner<br />

Sat., <strong>March</strong> 9, 7pm<br />

$75/pp, 4 courses<br />

Around the<br />

World Vegan<br />

Tea Pairing Dinner<br />

by Yoda Olinyk<br />

Sat., <strong>April</strong> 23, 7pm<br />

$75/pp, 4 courses<br />

Desserts<br />

The Art of<br />

Cup Tossing<br />

– Reading Tea Leaves<br />

(Novice Course Training)<br />

Sun., <strong>March</strong> 24<br />

$165 (6 hours)<br />

Tea<br />

& Chocolate<br />

Pairing with<br />

Sweet Brigadeiros<br />

Wed., May 10<br />

268 Piccadilly Street<br />

(beside Oxford Book Store)<br />

519-601-TEAS (8327) • tealoungelondon.com<br />

WED & THURS 11am-6pm • FRI & SAT 11am-9pm • SUN noon–5pm


eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

The Merry Makers Block Party<br />

Saturday, <strong>March</strong> 16, 1–5pm<br />

Held outside on the Covent Garden Market Square,<br />

directly across from Budweiser Gardens.<br />

This 100% handmade, 100% local makers<br />

fair will include food and beverage<br />

vendors, music, and handcrafted<br />

wares from the Forest City. The<br />

downtown core will be alive with<br />

community activities and events all day long!<br />

Mezzanine Level Kids Event, 2–5pm<br />

A fun, free kids event will be held upstairs. See Miss T,<br />

the Bubble Queen, and her incredible bubble show and<br />

enjoy your photo op standing in a large giant bubble!<br />

The event will also have a Bouncy castle, face painters,<br />

live entertainment, food and COTTON CANDY!<br />

Outdoor Easter Farmers’ Market<br />

Saturday, <strong>April</strong> 20, 8am–1pm<br />

Enjoy an abundance of local favourites in our annual<br />

Easter celebration, outside on the Market Square.<br />

See our website or Facebook page for further details.<br />

FREE PARKING<br />

With Validation<br />

Half Hour Weekdays<br />

Market Hours<br />

Monday to Saturday<br />

Restaurateur and community leader Heidi Vamvalis<br />

is a pillar of hospitality, and has been serving Greek/<br />

Mediterranean cuisine and traditional English fish<br />

& chips with her husband Bill for over 40 years at<br />

beloved Mykonos Restaurant. Mykonos sports a<br />

festive covered patio that is heated during the cooler<br />

weather. The Mykonos Platter with moussaka,<br />

pastichio, souvlaki, tsaziki, tiropitaki, spanakopita,<br />

loukanica and dolmathaki is outstanding. 572 Adelaide<br />

Street N., 519-434-6736, mykonosrestaurant.ca<br />

Abruzzi Ristorante is an up-to-date epicurean hot spot<br />

serving both modern and emblematic regional Italian<br />

specialties. Owners Rob D’Amico and Chef Dave Lamer’s<br />

offerings are intuitive, often iconic, and prepared<br />

with locally-sourced and quality ethnic ingredients,<br />

supported by a superior wine list featuring<br />

interesting consignments. 119 King St., abruzzi.ca<br />

Barbara Czyz’s success with Unique Food Attitude is<br />

due to excellent modern European cuisine, creative<br />

chalkboard offerings, and an attentive vibe. Specialties<br />

include bigos, Polish poutine, goulash with potato<br />

pancakes, slow-cooked cabbage rolls, and peirogi with<br />

sweet and savoury fillings. 697 Dundas St., 519-649-<br />

2225, unique-food-attitudes.com<br />

Chef/restaurateur T.G. Haile of T.G.’s Addis Ababa<br />

Restaurant embodies the art of hospitality and<br />

entrepreneurism. She is dedicated to supporting<br />

meaningful cultural and charitable initiatives and<br />

events, despite being a busy hands-on restaurateur who<br />

does all of the cooking at her restaurant. Be sure to put<br />

TG’s Ethiopian breakfast on your list for a great culinary<br />

adventure on Sundays. 465 Dundas St. (at Maitland),<br />

519-433-4222, tgsaddisababarestaurant.com<br />

Jill’s Table is London’s paramount purveyor of fine<br />

foods and an award-winning specialty food and<br />

kitchen store in downtown London. Owner Jill Wilcox<br />

is an amazing culinary resource — supportive,<br />

knowledgeable and a leader in promoting the local<br />

food community. For more than 23 years, Wilcox has<br />

been leading cooking classes, now at Jill’s Table, and<br />

has been a food columnist for the London Free Press<br />

and Post Media for more than 38 years. jillstable.ca<br />

Chef Ashton Gillespie’s latest venture is The Dinner<br />

Table — a pop-up restaurant series. Meals are<br />

served at a communal table so anyone who enjoys<br />

great service and delicious food are encouraged to<br />

join them for a variety of themed dinners. facebook.<br />

com/popupthedinnertable<br />

PC Cooking Schools at Superstore offer one-hour<br />

weekly daytime “What’s for Dinner?” classes on<br />

Thursdays. Oxford & Gammage 12:30–1:30 pm or<br />

Oxford & Hyde Park Road 1–2pm. Gammage location<br />

classes will include “A Serbian Feast” with Paul


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 55<br />

Abeleira on <strong>March</strong> 5, 6:30–8:30 pm; “Indian Food to<br />

Fight Winter Chills” with Jasjit on <strong>March</strong> 24, 1–3pm;<br />

“Cinco de Mayo” with Chef Barbara Toomer, <strong>April</strong><br />

19, 6:30–8:30 pm; and “Flavours of the Far East”<br />

with Chef Mies Bervoets, <strong>April</strong> 30, 6:30–8:30pm.<br />

The Hyde Park Road location offers “Fruitful Dining”<br />

with Jamie Chowns, <strong>March</strong> 14, 6:30–8:30pm; “Cinco<br />

de Mayo” with Chef Barbara Toomer, <strong>March</strong> 26,<br />

6:30–8:30pm; and “Indian Seafood Sensations” with<br />

Ankita Vaidya, <strong>April</strong> 23, 6:30-8:30 pm. Sign up for<br />

any PC Cooking classes at customer service in-stores<br />

or online. pccookingschool.ca<br />

The 2nd annual London I Love BEER Festival: The<br />

Taco Edition is coming to the London Convention<br />

Centre on <strong>March</strong> 23 for a night of Ontario beer, cider,<br />

spirits and tacos. Cheers! iheartbeer.ca/london/<br />

Michelle Pierce Hamilton is sponsoring London’s<br />

first Tea & Kombucha Festival on Saturday, <strong>March</strong> 30<br />

at the London Public Library Central Branch (Wolf<br />

Performance Hall and meeting spaces). The Tea<br />

Guild of Canada is a co-sponsor, providing expertise,<br />

resources, and volunteers. The spirit of this venture is<br />

to grow tea culture by showcasing London and areas’<br />

independent tea and kombucha businesses. There will<br />

be a strong lineup of engaging skill-building workshops<br />

and speakers, including focused tea tastings by certified<br />

tea sommelier Karen Hardwick and Tea Haus owner<br />

Stefanie Stolzel. londonteafestival.ca<br />

Twenty new coaches emerged from the experiential<br />

tourism “Train the Trainer” course hosted by SWOTC<br />

and guru Celes Davar at The Tap Room above The<br />

Root Cellar, a ground-breaking gathering of tourism<br />

marketers and “experience” partners, all grads of the<br />

“Unlocked & Inspired” experiential tourism training.<br />

A Slow Food-inspired evening, with a craft beer<br />

pairing by Nate Torrresan of Forked River Brewing<br />

Co., was facilitated by Bryan Lavery and emceed by<br />

Nick Lavery of the Lavery Culinary Group with Chef<br />

Thomas Waite of The In Home Chef and Chef Ashton<br />

Gillespie of The Dinner Table. Speakers Gary Rowsell<br />

and Emanuela Frongia spoke about the Slow Food<br />

movement and its exciting Canadian Ark of Taste.<br />

Chaucer’s Pub (sibling to Marienbad next door)is<br />

among the longest continuously-operating hospitality<br />

businesses in downtown London and will be<br />

celebrating a 40th anniversary later this year. A local<br />

historian tells us “it is the only non-private pub/bar<br />

in London that does not have a TV screen in your face.<br />

(Up the art of conversation!).” marienbad.ca<br />

Congratulations to Alieska Robles and the amazing<br />

Forest City Cookbook team! The ambitious project<br />

More than just a Coffee Shop!<br />

Breakfast<br />

Lunch<br />

Dinner<br />

Gelato<br />

Panini<br />

Quality Coffee<br />

120 Different<br />

Flavour Shots!<br />

Open Daily<br />

8am–8pm<br />

Homemade Gelato<br />

• Quality Coffee<br />

• Espresso • Lattes • Cappuccino<br />

• 30 Organic Loose Leaf Teas<br />

• Homemade Gelato • Soft Ice Cream<br />

• Milkshakes • Sundaes • Gelato Paninis<br />

• Homemade Soup & Chili • Light Meals<br />

Pour Over Coffee Bar<br />

We grind fresh (even decaf),<br />

use filtered water and<br />

manually pour your coffee<br />

on the spot<br />

10%<br />

Senior’s Discount<br />

on<br />

Mondays!<br />

825 Southdale Rd W, London<br />

519-652-1607<br />

creambeanerycafe.com


where art is<br />

Hey, Cupcake! a piece of cake<br />

The ORIGINAL<br />

LONDON CAKERY &<br />

GOURMET CUPCAKE<br />

BAKERY<br />

ASK US Custom Bakery • Walk-In Orders Available<br />

ABOUT OUR<br />

“RANDOM<br />

ACTS OF<br />

SWEETNESS!”<br />

CAMPAIGN<br />

www.heycupcake.ca<br />

275 Wharncliffe Rd. North<br />

519-433-CAKE (2253)<br />

STORE HOURS: Mon–Fri 11–7<br />

Saturday 10–5 • Sunday 11–4<br />

Your love of all things Italian begins at<br />

Gift Cards<br />

Available<br />

519-652-7659 • HWY 401 & 4 • pastosgrill.com<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

that inspired London’s culinary community can<br />

now be called “an international award-winning<br />

cookbook,” as the Canadian winner of the <strong>2019</strong><br />

Gourmand World Cookbook Awards in two<br />

categories: “Best Self-Published Book in English in<br />

Canada” and “Best Digital Book for Sale in Canada.”<br />

forestcitycookbook.com/shop/ebook<br />

Meaghan Biddle (manager, barista and coffee educator)<br />

and Alastair Smyth (barista) of Locomotive Espresso<br />

will be competing in the Canadian National Barista<br />

Championships the weekend of <strong>March</strong> 15–17 in Toronto.<br />

Good luck! locomotiveespresso.com<br />

Mama Chena Coffee Co. is Alberto Sepulveda’s coffee<br />

business based in London. Importing green coffee<br />

beans from the family farm and others on the north<br />

coast of Colombia, along the Sierra Nevada de Santa<br />

Marta mountain range, they supply direct trade<br />

green coffee beans to a number of southwestern<br />

Ontario roasters who help share their story. Clients<br />

include O-Joe Coffee (Mt. Brydges), Blackwater<br />

Coffee Co. (Sarnia), Chance Coffee (Windsor),<br />

Coastal Coffee Co. (Zurich, Ontario), Patrick’s Beans<br />

(London), Hasbeans (London), CommonWealth<br />

Coffee (London), Stratford Coffee Co. (Stratford), and<br />

Smile Tiger (Kitchener). mamachena.com<br />

The new culinary team at Dundas St.’s The Root<br />

Cellar remains committed to forging meaningful<br />

relationships with local, organic, and sustainable<br />

farms in Southwestern Ontario with worker-owned<br />

On the Move Organics, which continues to expand the<br />

network of organic farmers and producers they work<br />

with. Look for the new On the Move Organics location at<br />

The Market at Western Fair. onthemoveorganics.ca<br />

Shelbys Food Express on Horton Street has taken the<br />

city by storm with generous servings of traditional<br />

and fusion Middle Eastern cuisine. Now there is a<br />

new sibling — Bistro 644 — on Richmond Row,<br />

in the space previously occupied by Sakata at 644<br />

Richmond Street. shelbysfoodexpress.com<br />

At the new Quebec-based Copper Branch on<br />

Richmond Row, they’re offering a 100% plant-based<br />

power food menu. Chef-inspired menu items include<br />

power bowls, burgers, sandwiches, all-day breakfast,<br />

power smoothies, organic coffees and teas, and allnatural<br />

beverages. CopperBranch.ca<br />

Chris MacGregor and Valentino “Val” De Franco<br />

have opened up a new Shoeless Joe’s restaurant<br />

franchise at 89 King St., across from Budweiser<br />

Gardens. Expect an urban feel, with a sports bar<br />

focus. “We’re going to be open late,” says MacGregor.<br />

“So even after the London Knights have played or a<br />

concert has let out, patrons can come over for drinks<br />

and great food.” shoelessjoes.ca.


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Stratford<br />

For 35 years, Stratford Chefs School, a not-for-profit<br />

career college focused on innovative, hands-on<br />

training of high quality, aspiring chefs and culinary<br />

entrepreneurs, has set the standard of excellence<br />

for culinary training in Canada. In addition to its<br />

renowned 32-week professional cookery program,<br />

the School recently launched a unique 16-week<br />

“Cook: Basic – Level 1 Diploma” program to run<br />

June 3–September 20. Teaching the basics of<br />

classical cookery and pastry coupled with theory<br />

classes focused on cuisine and hospitality, this<br />

program is perfect for those embarking on a second<br />

career or interested in fast-tracking culinary goals.<br />

stratfordchef.com/summer-program<br />

Interested in more recreational cooking classes?<br />

Stratford Chefs School continues its Open Kitchen<br />

program from <strong>March</strong>–October, devoted to home<br />

cooks and food-lovers looking for hands-on, skillbuilding<br />

classes that are informative and fun. $35 to<br />

$85 per session. stratfordchef.com/open-kitchen<br />

Herald Haus Brewing Co. is now open, in the<br />

extensively refurbished historic Herald building<br />

at 21 Market Place, former headquarters of The<br />

Stratford Herald newspaper. Owned and operated<br />

by Daniel J. Graver, the team includes head brewer<br />

Jeff Macdonald and assistant brewer John Zippel.<br />

Drop by the taproom for expertly poured pints, cans<br />

for purchase and an exclusive menu prepared by<br />

The Hub kitchen team next door. heraldhaus.com<br />

Old Man & Son, launched by Jessie Votary and the<br />

folks at The Red Rabbit and Okazu 85 Downie as<br />

another opportunity to offer fair wages and year<br />

round employment, is open for breakfast and lunch.<br />

Early risers (open at 7am) can expect super fluffy<br />

pancakes, smoked bacon and sausage, avocado<br />

toast and other honest fare with delicious twists.<br />

Lunch includes an interesting selection of burgers<br />

and sandwiches. 75 Wellington St., 519-305-7575,<br />

oldmanandson.com<br />

<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 57<br />

Steve Walters’ mission is to create a more optimistic<br />

future through the world of food. The Hub Fine<br />

Foods & Market will open this spring in the former<br />

location of Bard’s, followed by The Hub Butchery.<br />

Walters, as Agency Creative Director of the<br />

market, promises a bakery, freshly prepared foods,<br />

specialty and local products and fresh produce —<br />

“a welcome destination for the food enthusiast.”<br />

The Restaurant at The Bruce is hosting two special<br />

events in <strong>March</strong>. Savour Afternoon Tea on <strong>March</strong><br />

10, with a delectable mix of traditional and New<br />

100% Local — from Our Farmers to Your Table<br />

Hormone & Drug-Free<br />

Ontario Beef, Pork, Bison, Lamb & Chicken<br />

THE VILLAGE<br />

MEAT SHOP<br />

LOCAL - NATURAL - QUALITY<br />

WE ARE YOUR LONDON OUTLET FOR<br />

• Metzger Meat Products • Lena’s Lamb<br />

• Blanbrook Bison Farm • Little Sisters Chicken<br />

• Glengyle Farm Organics<br />

The Market at Western Fair District: SAT 8–3; SUN 10–2<br />

226-376-6328 • www.thevillagemeatshop.ca<br />

willie’s café<br />

630 Dundas Street, Old East Village.<br />

@williescafe


58 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

Canadiana nibbles served alongside a choice of<br />

20 loose leaf teas curated by their certified tea<br />

sommelier. A Sugar Shack Dinner will be held<br />

on <strong>March</strong> 23, with each of five courses “mapleinspired”<br />

with all local Canadian ingredients.<br />

Reservations required. And don’t forget the Bruce’s<br />

Local Nights on Mondays. Enjoy an an innovative<br />

menu at a super price. visitstratford.ca/partner/<br />

The-Bruce-Restaurant<br />

Weather permitting, the annual Swan Parade/<br />

Release will officially begin at 2pm on <strong>April</strong> 7, but<br />

the family fun runs noon–3pm with carriage rides,<br />

street performers and a quest for decorated pop-up<br />

swan topiaries. Make your way downtown to Lakeside<br />

Drive where the swans are led by the Stratford Police<br />

Pipes and Drums. visitstratford.ca/swans<br />

Puck’s Plenty Early Spring Foraging begins <strong>April</strong> 20<br />

with naturalist/forager Peter Blush. Search forest<br />

trails for wild edibles and learn to harvest these<br />

delicious gems of nature sustainably. Recipes will<br />

also be supplied. 96 Birmingham St., 10am–1pm, $35.<br />

Call 519 271-3726 to reserve your space.<br />

The Milky Whey Fine Cheese Shop hosts a “This<br />

Cheese, That Wine” tasting and pairing event on<br />

<strong>April</strong> 6. visitstratford.ca/partner/The-Milky-Whey-<br />

Fine-Cheese-Shop<br />

Stop by Junction 56 Distillery on a Saturday (11am–<br />

noon) for a lively and informative tour. Be sure to try<br />

Sugar Shack, maple-flavoured moonshine, as well<br />

as Fireshine (cinnamon) and Eclipse (anise) flavours,<br />

just three of several wonderful flavours offered. The<br />

award-winning distillery also specializes in vodka<br />

and gin. 45 Cambria St., $15, junction56.ca<br />

The Slow Food Perth County Sunday Market<br />

runs 10am–2pm indoors at downtown Festival<br />

Marketplace Mall until May, when it moves to the<br />

Market Square at City Hall. You’ll find local produce,<br />

bread, soup, sweets, soap, healthy treats, crafty<br />

things, lacto-fermented foods, cheese, grass-fed<br />

meats and garden seeds. .slowfoodperthcounty.ca<br />

Stratford Farmers’ Market, a year-round market<br />

operating since 1855, offers fresh produce, crafts,<br />

meat and cheese at Stratford Rotary Complex-<br />

Agriplex, 353 McCarthy Rd, Saturdays 7 am–12<br />

noon. 519-271-5130. www.stratfordfairgrounds.com<br />

Revival House is serving Winter/Spring dinners<br />

Thursday–Saturday and a Weekend Brunch<br />

11am–2pm both days. A special Brunch Buffet<br />

will be offered celebrating Easter (<strong>April</strong> 21)<br />

and Mother’s Day (May 12) from 10am–2pm.<br />

Reservations recommended.<br />

Revival House is also serving up amazing<br />

live entertainment. The Stratford Symphony<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Orchestra presents more of the Classical Brunch<br />

series on Sundays <strong>April</strong> 14 and May 5 at 11:30am.<br />

The $40 admission includes a special brunch<br />

menu, musical performance and a $20 tax receipt<br />

(stratfordsymphonyorchestra.ca). Jully Black,<br />

“Canada’s Queen of R&B Soul” (CBC Music) will<br />

grace the Revival House stage for a show with<br />

her full band on Thursday, <strong>March</strong> 14. A Celtic<br />

Celebration concert will be hosted by Stratford’s<br />

own Rant Maggie Rant with a 2pm matinee<br />

performance on St Patrick’s Day, Sunday, <strong>March</strong><br />

17. Toronto’s Neil Young’uns return <strong>March</strong> 30,<br />

bring the audience “the closest you’ll ever get to<br />

the real Neil!” On Saturday, <strong>April</strong> 13, guests will<br />

groove to the 10-piece new roots reggae band The<br />

Human Rights. Two-time JUNO Award-winning<br />

singer-songwriter Hawksley Workman brings<br />

his signature blend of anthemic folk and showstopping<br />

vocals for one special night on May 21.<br />

Revival House offers limited pre-concert<br />

preferred seating. Enjoy dinner and the show from<br />

your seat! 519-273-3424, www.revival.house<br />

Around the Region<br />

McCully’s Hill Farm hosts a weekly Maple Syrup<br />

Festival in <strong>March</strong>. Sugar Bush Tours include a wagon<br />

ride through the sugar bush, a guided tour of our<br />

sugar shack and a visit with the farm animals. Enjoy<br />

Pancake Brunch served with McCully’s own maple<br />

syrup, McCully’s own maple pork sausage and maple<br />

baked beans and fruit. 10:30am–2pm, Saturdays and<br />

Sundays in <strong>March</strong>, 4074 Perth Line 9. 519 284-2564,<br />

visitstratford.ca/partner/McCullys-Hill-Farm<br />

Grand Bend’s Dark Horse Winery is hosting a St.<br />

Paddy’s Day celebration on <strong>March</strong> 17. visitstratford.<br />

ca/partner/Dark-Horse-Estate-Winery<br />

Tillsonburg’s Ottercreek Woodworks, founded by<br />

carpenter and craftsman Dave Schonberger, uses<br />

only local, sustainably-harvested hardwoods to<br />

fashion distinctive live-edge charcuterie boards.<br />

Popular “Tree to Table” board-making workshops are<br />

also offered. ottercreekwoodworks.myshopify.com<br />

Steelhead Food Co. recently moved into their own<br />

processing facility and are excited to offer fresh<br />

locally processed fish that is cleaned, cut and<br />

processed in-house. Based in St. Thomas, they<br />

offer a huge selection of premium quality fish and<br />

seafood — fresh, frozen, and smoked — to most of<br />

southwestern Ontario. steelheadfoodco.ca<br />

Ride the Bine provides local beer, wine, and cider<br />

tours. With a goal to get people closer to their<br />

food’s origins — owners Amanda Dooney and<br />

Susan Judd grew up on farms — Ride the Bine’s<br />

fleet of Mercedes-Benz Sprinters provide a safe


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

and easy way to get to some of the coolest spots in<br />

Southwestern Ontario. Launched in Norfolk County<br />

with great success, Ride the Bine is expanding and<br />

now also showcases many London and surrounding<br />

area gems. ridethebine.com/london-tours<br />

The Village Teapot in Ilderton (see story this issue)<br />

continues their popular home-cooked Sunday<br />

Roasts with all the trimmings. Service is from<br />

noon–2pm and 5pm–7pm for $18.95 per person,<br />

and only $9.95 for children under 12. On <strong>April</strong> 7,<br />

there is Roast Chicken; May 12 (Mother’s Day, open<br />

evening only) is Roast Lamb; May 26 is Roast Beef;<br />

and June 16 (Father’s Day) is Prime Rib at $24.95.<br />

Vegetarian options are also available. Reservations<br />

are required. 519-298-TEAS (8327)<br />

The Bayfield Public House, the restaurant of the<br />

Bayfield Brewing Co. and adjacent to their soonto-open<br />

Tap Room, is now open. Historical charm<br />

meets craft beer and a unique dining experience,<br />

with feature beers like their own Canadian Pale Ale<br />

paired with gourmet dishes, delectable desserts,<br />

and cannot-miss specials. bayfieldbrewingco.com<br />

The <strong>2019</strong> Terroir Symposium in downtown Toronto<br />

will explore the choices we make and how they<br />

affect the growth, change and collective identity<br />

of the hospitality, food and beverage industry. The<br />

always-rewarding annual event will offer more<br />

main stage programming with 12-minute talks, two<br />

in-depth panel discussions, and six industry-focused<br />

workshops. terroirsymposium.com/overview<br />

LUNCH Wed to Fri 11:30–2:30<br />

DINNER from 5pm daily<br />

432 Richmond Street<br />

at Carling • London<br />

ALWAYS<br />

a 3-course prix fixe<br />

menu option<br />

www.davidsbistro.ca<br />

eatdrinkmag<br />

Did you know we are sharing “BUZZ” every day<br />

through social media? Follow us @ eatdrinkmag<br />

and join the conversation!<br />

We want your BUZZ!<br />

Do you have culinary news or upcoming events<br />

that you’d like us to share?<br />

Every issue, <strong>Eatdrink</strong> reaches more than<br />

50,000 readers across Southwestern Ontario<br />

in print, and thousands more online.<br />

Get in touch with us at<br />

editor@eatdrink.ca<br />

Deadline for submissions for the May/June issue is<br />

<strong>April</strong> 5.<br />

Over 300 Artisan Blends<br />

& Fine Spices<br />

No Wheat<br />

No Additives<br />

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Spice Merchant • Gourmet Foods<br />

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1-141 Wortley Rd., London 519.601.6610<br />

223 Colborne St., Port Stanley 519.782.7800<br />

Sat & Sun, 900 King St., London<br />

www.peppertreespice.com


60 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Books<br />

Tea for More than Two<br />

A Literary Tea Party<br />

by Alison Walsh<br />

Review by DARIN COOK<br />

My goal in this <strong>Eatdrink</strong> column<br />

has been to present various<br />

topics from the food industry<br />

that have been represented in<br />

titles across the global bookshelf. In her new<br />

book, A Literary Tea Party: Blends and Treats<br />

for Alice, Bilbo, Dorothy, Jo, and Book Lovers<br />

Everywhere (Skyhorse Publishing, 2018),<br />

Alison Walsh, a food blogger and lifelong<br />

reader, has taken a different approach by<br />

searching for what food can be drawn out<br />

of books. Starting with classic titles, she<br />

concocts tea and treat recipes inspired by the<br />

books’ meals, characters, or storylines.<br />

Certain recipes are born out of a character’s<br />

food preferences. Piglet’s love of “haycorns” in<br />

Winnie-the-Pooh led to Walsh’s interpretation<br />

of edible acorns by combining Asiago and<br />

Swiss cheese with crushed almonds. They are<br />

simple to make, look adorable on a platter,<br />

and taste delicious. These tiny savoury<br />

cheeseballs are paired with Hundred Acre tea<br />

(black tea featuring hazelnut, vanilla, and<br />

honeybush). Some recipes come from foods<br />

directly mentioned in a book, like the “muffs”<br />

(sweet potato and bacon puff<br />

pastries) made by Hannah in<br />

Little Women, or the Turkish<br />

delight and hot chocolate<br />

consumed by Edmund in<br />

The Lion, the Witch, and<br />

the Wardrobe. Others are<br />

conjured from a book’s<br />

theme, such as Star-crossed<br />

Focaccia, which has nothing<br />

to do with Romeo and Juliet<br />

except for the stars cut out<br />

of the dough to symbolize<br />

the lovers’ relationship in<br />

Shakespeare’s play.<br />

Most of the 45 recipes are<br />

paired<br />

with one of the<br />

23 tea blends or five alternative<br />

beverages, such as the Raspberry Cordial<br />

made famous in Anne of Green Gables. One<br />

pairing that honours The Wizard of Oz is that<br />

of Cyclone cookies with Emerald City tea<br />

(green-tinged herbal tea with peppermint,<br />

spearmint, and lemon grass). And there<br />

are Fairy Dust Star cookies paired with<br />

Second Star to the Right tea (Earl Grey tea<br />

with vanilla and lavender) to be served as<br />

“an in-flight snack while on your way to<br />

Neverland” while reading Peter Pan.<br />

Not everyone likes<br />

themed parties, but tea<br />

drinkers tend to love them<br />

a lot. A good deal of that<br />

attraction might stem from<br />

the Mad Hatter tea party<br />

scene in Alice in Wonderland.<br />

This iconic tea party has<br />

an obvious place in this<br />

book with a delightful<br />

menu, including Bread<br />

and Butterflies (dainty<br />

cucumber sandwiches<br />

shaped like butterflies) and<br />

Drink Me tea (white peony<br />

Author Alison Walsh


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

tea with pear). Walsh suggests six other tea<br />

party ideas with appropriate menus, such<br />

as Aslan’s Feast featuring recipes specific to<br />

The Chronicles of Narnia or a Murder Most<br />

Delicious tea party with recipes based on<br />

Sherlock Holmes stories and Agatha Christie<br />

mysteries, including Blood Orange Scones and<br />

London Fog Lattes.<br />

Throughout the book, Walsh provides<br />

helpful tips she has stumbled upon in her<br />

recipe testing. For instance, when preparing<br />

Swiss roll type sandwiches, using oatmeal or<br />

potato bread allows for easier rolling because<br />

these have a higher moisture content and are<br />

less likely to dry out. When she gets into candy<br />

making with Peppermint Humbugs, to pay<br />

tribute to the word used by the curmudgeonly<br />

Scrooge in A Christmas Carol, she suggests<br />

coating your gloved hands and kitchen scissors<br />

<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 61<br />

with cooking spray to make it easier to work<br />

with the hot, sticky, melted sugar.<br />

As Sara Letourneau writes in the book’s<br />

introduction: “If literature is meant to reflect<br />

life, then why not use food, a part of our<br />

everyday lives, to make that reflection truly<br />

believable?” By drawing on her knowledge of<br />

literature and inserting quotes alongside her<br />

recipes, Walsh has invented tea party gems<br />

in her own kitchen and passed them on to<br />

all book lovers through A Literary Tea Party,<br />

proving that dishes inspired by fiction can<br />

become reality, because food is real, even in<br />

make-believe worlds.<br />

DARIN COOK is a freelance writer from Chatham who<br />

keeps himself well-read and well-fed by visiting the<br />

bookstores and restaurants of London.<br />

The Raven Cocktail<br />

Then this ebony bird beguiling my sad fancy into smiling,<br />

By the grave and stern decorum of the countenance it wore,<br />

“Though thy crest be shorn and shaven, thou,” I said, “art sure no craven,<br />

Ghastly grim and ancient Raven wandering from the Nightly shore —<br />

Tell me what thy lordly name is on the Night’s Plutonian shore!”<br />

Quoth the Raven “Nevermore.”<br />

Inspired by Edgar Allan Poe’s poem “The Raven”<br />

3 blackberries<br />

3–5 mint leaves (plus 2 extra sprigs for garnish)<br />

1 ½ oz white rum<br />

½ cup pomegranate juice, chilled<br />

Makes 1 cocktail<br />

Use a muddler to crush the blackberries and 3–5 mint<br />

leaves in the bottom of a cocktail shaker (I used 3 mint<br />

leaves).<br />

Pour in the rum and pomegranate juice. Secure the lid<br />

onto the shaker and shake to combine.<br />

Pour into a wine glass. Strain out the berry pulp and<br />

leaves or, if you prefer, leave them in. I like the visual<br />

effect and extra flavour they add, so I leave them in.<br />

Top with a sprig of mint and serve to a gloomy feathered<br />

friend.<br />

Recipe excerpted from Alison’s Wonderland<br />

Recipes: Recipes Inspired by Classic Literature<br />

(wonderlandrecipes.com) by Alison Walsh.<br />

All rights reserved.


62 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

The Lighter Side<br />

Home is Where the Hygge Is<br />

By SUE SUTHERLAND-WOOD<br />

I<br />

was out shopping recently and happened<br />

to spend a few minutes browsing the<br />

shelves of scented candles. It was<br />

interesting to see how many of the<br />

choices were happy, nostalgic treats like<br />

sugar cookies, apple pie, and vanilla birthday<br />

cake. All instantly conjured up with the quick<br />

rasp of a match. This ties in nicely with the<br />

many popular books available which outline<br />

how to create what the Danes call “hygge”<br />

(pronounced hoo-gah), a now over-used buzz<br />

word that defines that<br />

snug feeling of cradling<br />

a mug of hot chocolate<br />

in front of the fire whilst<br />

wearing fancy socks that<br />

have never had cat hair<br />

on them.<br />

The reality is that while<br />

most of us absolutely<br />

do crave this feeling, we<br />

are also excruciatingly<br />

busy. When time permits<br />

(often at the ghastly hour of 10 pm when we<br />

may still be folding laundry by the light of the<br />

dryer) we still feel guilty about failing to do<br />

more, be better. Women are especially prone<br />

to this kind of anguish and tend to undervalue<br />

what they accomplish every day.<br />

Yet small things are important and their<br />

effect is cumulative.<br />

Despite now being over six feet tall, my own<br />

sons can still wax sentimental about going<br />

to the market when they were small. Even<br />

though I myself was often exhausted and<br />

shuffling with a coffee, they only remember<br />

The Cheese Ladies. These sparkling women<br />

took a genuine interest in them every<br />

Saturday and shaved off crumbly shards<br />

of Cheshire or offered squares of buttery<br />

Havarti, all the while earnestly listening.<br />

From Colby to New Zealand Cheddar they<br />

tried them all, and my eldest son began<br />

shyly bringing a drawing each week which<br />

the women proudly displayed till it curled<br />

and faded. Kindness and sincerity are good<br />

business partners, as it happens. We bought a<br />

lot of cheese!<br />

I was extremely moved recently by a tender<br />

anecdote delivered at a memorial service. A<br />

young woman, the eldest granddaughter, held<br />

everyone’s attention by eloquently describing<br />

the shivery chill of a wet bathing suit after<br />

a long afternoon of swimming, and her<br />

squealing delight as her grandmother wound<br />

her into a soft, thick towel which she had<br />

thoughtfully toasted<br />

in the dryer first. She<br />

was then presented<br />

with a cherry<br />

Popsicle, before<br />

skipping back to<br />

play. So simple. But<br />

it’s a feeling she can<br />

rekindle throughout<br />

her life: feeling loved,<br />

cared for, cherished.<br />

There are other<br />

things. A child’s excited pride in unclipping<br />

the Tupperware lid at soccer time. “Guys! It’s<br />

watermelon!” A friend of mine once marveled<br />

at her own mother’s help after the birth of<br />

a child. “She made chicken, she dried sheets<br />

outside. And she folded laundry perfectly —<br />

like they do in the store!”<br />

Many of us know and dread the endless<br />

preparations that go with camping. But<br />

ultimately, who remembers the homemade<br />

gourmet foil packets that cook uncertainly in<br />

the ashes of the fire for dinner? No one — not<br />

when there are s’mores!<br />

Light a scented candle by all means — but<br />

look carefully at your own life, gentle reader.<br />

You may already be creating far more hygge<br />

than you know.<br />

SUE SUTHERLAND-WOOD is a freelance writer and<br />

regular contributor to <strong>Eatdrink</strong>. Read more of Sue’s work<br />

on her blog www.speranzanow.com


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eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

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