Creative HEAD April 2019

alfolltd

In print•online•everywhere!

£4.50 APRIL 2019

STAND WITH ME

Peace, love and beautiful hair


Granted, there’s not a

great amount of joy in

the world right now,

but as a salon owner

you’re in a privileged

position – you have

the power to make

people look and feel

fabulous.

And that’s

a m a z i n g ,

right?

It’s one of the

reasons you do

your job in the

fi rst place?

But don’t you

think you deserve

some

of that feelgood

factor

for yourself,

your team and

your salon?

When you

c h o o s e

P a u l

Mitchell,

you get more than just highperforming

products.

You’re supporting a brand

that believes in giving

back.

Over the years,

Paul Mitchell has

donated millions to

philanthropic causes:

from environmental

protection to children’s

charities and human rights.

But the brand

doesn’t just

give with its

cheque book –

it mobilises the entire Paul

Mitchell community to get volved and lend a in-

hand.

You get to be part

of a culture that’s

helping to change

the world, one

od deed at a time.


STAND

CREATIVE HEAD PARTNERSHIP

FOR

STYLE

Granted, there’s not a great amount of joy in the world right now, but as a salon owner you’re

in a privileged position – you have the power to make people look and feel fabulous. And that’s

amazing, right? it’s One of the reasons you do your job in the first place. But don’t you think

you deserve some of that feel-good factor for yourself, your team and your salon?

When you choose Paul Mitchell, you get more than just high-performing products. You’re

supporting a brand that believes in giving back. Over the years, Paul Mitchell has donated

millions to philanthropic causes, from environmental protection to children’s charities and

human rights. But the brand doesn’t just give with its cheque book – it mobilises the entire

Paul Mitchell community to get involved and lend a hand. You get to be part of a culture that’s

helping to change the world, one good deed at a time.

@salonsuccessuk


Feel

Beautiful.

Live

CREATIVE HEAD PARTNERSHIP

Beautifully

The Paul Mitchell

mission is (and

always will be)

dedicated to making

our world a more

beautiful place.

The brand believes in

doing good for people

and the planet – and

now’s the time to

join in the pay it

forward movement.

#GivingIsMyStyle


MIGHTY

No animal

testing.

Never have,

never will.


BRIGHT

CREATIVE HEAD PARTNERSHIP

Paul Mitchell

Forever Blonde

Dramatic Repair

Lightweight yet powerful, this

multi-tasking corrector spray

specifically targets the needs of

lightened and highlighted hair.

Loaded with KerActive protein,

safflower oleosomes and

macadamia nut oil, it penetrates,

repairs and moisturises weakened

hair, leaving it smoother and

stronger, with gorgeous-looking

results every time.

RRP £8.10 / 25ml

RRP £18.75 / 150ml

@salonsuccessuk


AUL MITCHELL

HEADMASTERS

the irl world Power of – Paul

in

Mitchell

that means

originality,

authenticity,

creativity,

confi dence and

diversity.


CREATIVE HEAD PARTNERSHIP

PAUL MITCHELL

HEADMASTERS

Girl Power – in the world of Paul Mitchell that means originality,

authenticity, creativity, confidence and diversity.

#GivingIsMyStyle


WARRIOR

Did you know?

All Neuro

products are

vegan and

cruelty-free


SHIELD

CREATIVE HEAD PARTNERSHIP

Paul Mitchell Neuro

Protect HeatCTRL

Iron Hairspray

Exclusive HeatCTRL technology

provides advanced protection

from styling irons and thermal

tools, reducing the rate of

heat transfer from roots to

ends. Shine and hold agents

also help resist humidity and

block out frizz.

RRP £9.95 / 50ml

RRP £21.95 / 205ml

@salonsuccessuk


Headmasters creative director,

Andrew Barton, is famous for creating

iconic hair imagery for campaigns

and for sharing his passion for

the hairdressing industry with

audiences around the globe.

The bold statement looks he

fashioned here using Paul Mitchell

haircare are in keeping with

the Headmasters ethos of beautiful,

fashionable, confidence-boosting hair.

Says Andrew: “There’s a great fit for us

at Headmasters with our clients and

Paul Mitchell, and it’s framed by

the two big pillars that the Paul

Mitchell brand is all about

– its ethical values and

its environmentallyfriendly

stance. And

what we’re finding is

that as clients become

more sophisticated in

their tastes, they’re

demanding so much

more from the hair

products they use,

including the need

to tick the boxes

on social and

environmental

concerns.

from us hair

professionals,

they look for

expert advice,

while Paul

Mitchell gives

them what they

need and want

as conscientious

consumers.”


FOR THE

CREATIVE HEAD PARTNERSHIP

GREAT &

THE GOOD

#GivingIsMyStyle


BOOM

You won’t find Paul Mitchell in

supermarkets or chemists, taking

business away from salons. That

is unless there has been diversion

in the supply chain, in which

case we send the shampoo police

round! All Paul Mitchell products

are truly professional.


BODY

CREATIVE HEAD PARTNERSHIP

Paul Mitchell

Invisiblewear

Undone Texture

Hairspray

Delivering instant texture with

natural-looking volume, this

lightweight hairspray adds life

to flat hair for a natural-looking

finish with touchable hold.

RRP £17.75 / 239ml

@salonsuccessuk


“Paul Mitchell is quite personal to me because they were the

first-ever products I touched as a trainee hairdresser – that

was my experience of what hair products felt like and what they

did to hair. Now, as creative director of Headmasters, it’s great

that I can share the creativity and vision of those products with

the Headmasters teams and their wider networks, and also share

the quality and innovation and excitement of Paul Mitchell with

the Headmasters clientele, who want the very best and want

products that are going to transform how their hair looks

and feels. So there’s a big love heart sign here about how it all

connects brilliantly together!”

Andrew Barton, creative director, Headmasters


CREATIVE HEAD PARTNERSHIP

Photography by Alexander Jordan. Hair by Andrew Barton,

creative director at Headmasters, and Gareth Williams

and Jonathan Soons for the Headmasters Creative Team.

Assisted by James Davies, Rachel Todisco, Joe Hill and Nicky

Televantou for Paul Mitchell. Make-up by Tricia Woolston

assisted by Laura Street. Fashion by Holly Coopey @ Frank

#GivingIsMyStyle


PEACE,

LOVE

AND

BEAUTIFUL

HAIR

Giving back has always been part of Paul Mitchell style! Whether that means taking

steps toward sustainability, helping families in need or supporting under-served

kids, It believes in doing good for people, animals and our planet, and it knows its fans

do too. Join the Paul Mitchell global family on social media and share why you think

it’s important to give back or how you’re making a difference with #GivingIsMyStyle.

Paul Mitchell is distributed in the UK exclusively by Salon Success. To discover more about this pioneering,

campaigning brand, call Salon Success on 0845 659 0011 or email us at hello@salon-success.co.uk


CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM

MAGAZINE EDUCATION EVENTS INSPIRATION CREATIVE HEAD STORE COMPETITIONS

EXCLUSIVE

Tribal tartan and pride in diversity – heritage and innovation

collide in Scots Hair Design’s latest collection, ‘Unity’

The Karbon Kyd himself, Wella Colour

Creative Jayson Gray, talks about his

colour apothecary and onstage mishaps,

exclusively at Creative HEAD Video

More than 200 savvy salon owners and

managers made the time for change at

Salon Smart 2019. Catch up with all the

inspiring action now

As a tidal wave of global colour trends

hits UK shores, just how much of its

influence is making its way into the

modern men’s styling?

creativeheadmag.com

creativeheadmagofficial

@creativeheadmag


BaByliss PRO’s Titanium Expression range has been

designed to help you create any look, whether it’s high-fashion

session hair or beautifully finished salon styles.

Find out more @BaBylissPROUK


Editor’s letter

21

66

52

“HERE COMES THE SUN, doo doo doo doo…” Now is the time to

prep for the influx of client illumination, so check out our round-up of

blonde brilliance (page 40). We examine the huge advancements made

in helping clients go and stay blonde – from in-salon bond protectors to

blonding agents that lift higher, cleaner and faster, new techniques to create

modern, fresh-looking blondes and aftercare that keeps lighter shades looking

brighter for longer. Your services, finishes and bottom line should be shining

afterwards! And speaking of shining, we have been dazzled by our 2018 It List

winners, a stellar line-up of young stars whose careers have only gotten brighter

since they were crowned. Find out how from page 52… and then turn to page

30 to check out all the 2019 Most Wanted and It List Award categories, and

get prepping your entries as we have two new awards for your perusual

– Independent Stylist and Best New Boutique Salon – so there’s more

choice than ever. And just think, it might be you in these pages in 2020!

Amanda Nottage

Editor

JOIN US!

What are you doing on Monday

20 May? The answer should

be, attending The Coterie:

In Session! Captivating

conversation will meet live

hair work and this time

the focus is centred fi rmly

on MEN. See pages 34-

35 for more information.

Now, we hope you’re

already busy beavering

away with your Most

Wanted and The It List

2019 entries but if not,

fear not – you still have time!

Bookmark creativeheadmag.

com/mostwanted and

creativeheadmag.com/theitlist

and head to pages 30-33 for

a full list of the categories

available. It’s time to step up

and stand out… good luck!

amanda@alfol.co.uk creativeheadmag.com creativeheadmagofficial

@creativeheadmag


QUEEN OF

THE SCENE

Stand out from the crowd and rule your

retail this season with summer’s hottest

lineup: the ghd festival collection.

#queenofthescene #ghdfestival

LONG LIVE GOOD HAIR DAYS

Available for a limited time only – to become a stockist,

contact your ghd account manager or call 01924 423400.


April

WHAT’S INSIDE

FASHION

Tony Haresign and Allan

Stone keep it slick in Mr. Q

THE IT LIST

Our winners from 2018 share how

their lives have changed since that

victorious night in September

70

52

FREE INSIDE

ON THE COVER

Hair by Andrew Barton,

creative director at

Headmasters, and

Gareth Williams and

Jonathan Soons for the

Headmasters Creative

Team. Photography by

Alexander Jordan

MISTER QUARTERLY

SCENE

American Crew

celebrates its UK

All Star Challenge

finalists and the

seanhanna team

paints the town

EDITOR

AMANDA NOTTAGE

DEPUTY EDITOR

DEBORAH MURTHA

ART DIRECTOR

NICK JABBAL

DIGITAL DESIGNER

EVA VESTMANN

CHIEF SUB EDITOR

ADAM WOOD

STAFF WRITER

ANNA SAMSON

DIGITAL ASSISTANT

KELSEY DRING

ONLINE AND

DIGITAL EDITOR

ALISON ROWLEY

CLASSIFIED EXECUTIVE

DAVID HAMMOND

SPECIAL PROJECTS MANAGER

JENNY BROOKS

SPECIAL PROJECTS DIRECTOR

JOANNA ANDERSEN

PUBLISHER

CATHERINE HANDCOCK

Creative HEAD is printed on

paper certifi ed as being from

sustainable sources using only

vegetable-based inks. Printed

by Buxton Press, Environmental

Printer of the Year and Printing

Company of the Year.

WRITE TO US AT:

Creative HEAD,

21 The Timberyard,

Drysdale Street,

London, N1 6ND

020 7324 7540

enquiries@alfol.co.uk

Creative HEAD is published

10 times a year by Alfol Ltd.

Creative HEAD is a registered

trademark. No part of this

magazine may be reproduced

without prior permission of the

publisher. All information correct

at time of going to press.

Printing by Buxton Press

creativeheadmag.com

creativeheadmagofficial

@creativeheadmag


The edit

THE NEWS AND KNOW-HOW FROM YOUR INDUSTRY

AUDIT OFFICE WARNS

APPRENTICE BUDGET

IS ‘UNSUSTAINABLE’

THE NATIONAL AUDIT Office (NAO) has

warned that the government’s apprenticeship

budget is at risk and is ultimately financially

unsustainable. The news comes after the

average cost of training an apprentice hit

double what was initially predicted. In

December, the Institute for Apprenticeships

and Technical Education estimated that the

apprenticeships budget for England, which is

currently £2.2bn, could be overspent by £500m

in 2018/2019, rising to £1.5bn of overspend in

2021/22.

The report warned that some employers

are replacing professional development

programmes, such as graduate schemes

that they would previously have funded

themselves, with apprenticeships in order

to ‘absorb’ public funding.

It also stated that there are risks the

apprenticeship programme is ‘subsidising

training that would have happened without

government funding’, and concludes that

‘given these concerns, the department has

some way to go before it can demonstrate

that the programme is achieving value for

money and that resources are being used to

best effect’.

Alan Woods OBE, chief executive of training

provider VTCT, said that the availability

of apprenticeships is a key workforce

development opportunity for all employers,

big or small. “An all-out push to maximise

the engagement of all employers – extensive

promotion to young people while still at school

and an easily understandable and consistent

funding programme – will address many of the

issues the NAO raise,” he argued.

Hester Wernert-Rijn

Authentic Beauty

Concept makes

waves in Berlin

HENKEL INVITED MEMBERS of the press from around the world to Berlin

to experience the ethos and inspiration behind Authentic Beauty Concept,

a free-from and vegan haircare range that launches in the UK this summer.

Global creative advocate of Authentic Beauty Concept, Hester Wernert-Rijn

from the Netherlands, was on hand to style models, alongside New Yorkbased

celebrity stylist Linda Shalabi. Said Rubaii, founder of Said Rubaii

Hairstyling in Berlin, also shared insight into authentic Berlin style and how

this is reflected in his salon. As part of the authentic beauty movement, there

was also the opportunity to learn more about the Authentic Beauty Concept

Momento, an in-salon treatment that goes beyond a hair wash to offer a

mindful salon experience, incorporating Bluetooth headphones with a choice

of playlists and a gel eye mask for total relaxation.

Headlining

this summer is

the limited edition

Festival Collection from ghd,

featuring a kaleidoscope of

colours that energises the Platinum+

and Gold stylers and the Air hairdryer

with a rainbow vibe.

ghdhair.com

Said Rubaii

14


SKP REVEALS YOUNG

ARTISTIC TEAM

SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL HAS announced

the members of the Young Artistic Team for 2019/20.

The squad consists of (pictured above, clockwise from

left): Molly Drummond (Hooker & Young, Ponteland),

Mitchell Gough (Hensmans, Northampton), Olivia

Bullivant (En Route, Wakefield), Sophie Perfect

(Options, Chelmsford), Justine Weir (Tweedie &

Marshall, Falkirk), and Stephanie Stevens (Daniel

Granger, Northampton). They’ve started the year with a

three-day team-building workshop at Billi Currie salon.

KH Hair mental

health drive

East Midlands-based salon chain

KH Hair is rolling out mental health

training across its 21 salons and

academy, with the aim of raising

awareness and challenging stigma

around mental health. Beginning

with a half-day introductory course

developed by Mental Health First

Aid England and delivered by

St John Ambulance, the scheme

aims to teach salon owners how to

spot signs of distress and how to

effectively start that first supportive

conversation. “Mental health

issues aren’t just prevalent among

the young, so this initiative will

hopefully help to break down any

barriers for anyone, regardless of

age, who needs our help,” said joint

managing director Darren Messias.

£378.51

is the average amount women

spent on haircuts last year,

according to Statista’s annual

report on the cosmetics and

personal care industry. Colour

(£284.70), blow-drys (£267.22)

and styling (£258.50) followed,

while men spent an average

£329.77 on haircuts last year.

#CHedit

MY month

AHEAD

What April has

in store for...

GARY TAYLOR

EDWARD & CO.

I’ll be getting ready for (and

recovering from) our salon’s

big party on 6 April! This

year the Taylor family is

celebrating being in business

for 100 years, thanks to five

generations of hairdressers.

We reckon

we’ve delivered

more than

three million

cuts, not bad

for a family

business!

SARA HOLMES

STUART HOLMES SALON

I’m still buzzing from Salon

Smart, where I took part in

A Great Debate: Time for a

Change. It was wonderful to

share such an incredible event

with inspirational leaders in

our industry. Soon Easter will

be upon us, which for us as

a salon is the

second busiest

period after

Christmas, so

we are ready

and waiting for

the rush!

Dizziak

Afro hair

searches up

ONLINE CONSUMER SEARCHES for salons catering for

Afro hair increased by 90 per cent in the UK between June

2017 and June 2018, illustrating the business potential

for salons to increase their income by ensuring they offer

inclusive hair services and care products for all hair types.

The report, Diversifying Hair Care by Pretty Analytics and

using Google Trends, also found a 51 per cent rise in the

number of videos online focused on the topic of black

natural haircare.

MOVERS AND SHAKERS

Zoë Irwin has joined

John Frieda Salons as

creative director.

Affinage has revealed

its new Colour Rebels

Artistic Team for 2019/20.

They are: Georgia Bell,

Aimee Goodwin, Victoria

Lee, Nicki Mehta, Terri

Nadin, Abbie Salmon

and Adam Thomas.

Dafydd Thomas has

been promoted to the

role of global head of

education at ghd.

CREATIVE HEAD

15


Spirit Lights from ASP

Affinage Salon Professional

lightens up to three levels,

while four pigments deliver

bespoke tones. It’s available

in introductory kits, too!

IN-SALON SERVICE

01794 527111

asphair.com

ALFAPARF

Milano’s The Hair

Supporters is a

luxury therapy

line containing

biomimetic

quaternized

keratin that can

be used during

colour, bleach

and straightening

services for

major results.

IN-SALON SERVICE

+353 45 856490

alfaparfmilano.com

Take au naturel to new heights with JOICO’s LumiShine

Natural Warm series of nude glow shades that are universally

flattering and radiant – available in permanent and demipermanent

crème, and demi-permanent liquid color.

IN-SALON SERVICE

0845 071 2326

joico-lumishine.com

Irresistible services consumers will want

to snap up, selected by the Layered team

Beauty sleep for hair, but in a bottle! New

Nutritive 8H Magic Night Serum from Kérastase

is designed to be used just before bed, leaving a

weightless finish that feels soft in the morning.

While your clients are snoozing, this

busy bee’s nutrients get the chance to

penetrate hair fully and replace the

moisture stripped away during the

day by styling and environmental

nasties. Another brilliant example

of inspiration from the world of

skincare, this serum does all the

hard work while clients catch their

Zzzs – we think it will be just as

hardworking for your retail sales!

RRP £36

0845 6000122

kerastase.co.uk

Pureology’s Hydrate line is a

stone-cold classic, but some

might find it a little heavy.

Fine-haired clients rejoice –

there’s now Hydrate Sheer

shampoo and conditioner!

RRP FROM £19.95

0800 0854956

pureology.com

L’Oréal Professionnel

Serioxyl Denser

Hair Treatment

works to target hair

thinning with hero

ingredients such

as Stemoxydine

to help wake up

dormant follicles.

RRP £35

0800 0304034

lorealprofessionnel.co.uk

Perfect for colour-treated hair,

the Tea Tree Special Color duo

includes rooibos tea botanicals

to help prevent fading.

RRP FROM £6.50

0845 6590011

salon-success.co.uk

This is genius – Paper Not Foil

is made from ground-down

industrial waste from

the construction industry,

recycled and turned into paper

for colour services. Use it in

the same way as any foil or

meche product!

SALON PRICE FROM £36

01283 584812

papernotfoil.co.uk

Goldwell’s Topchic and

Colorance lines welcome new

@ELUMENATED METALLIC

shades! Additions include

Cool Bronze, Cool Copper

and Steel Violet – or make

a statement with @Pure

Pigments Cool Violet.

IN-SALON SERVICE

0330 1239530

goldwell.co.uk

16

CREATIVE HEAD


#CHedit

STOCK

OPTIONS

OUR PICK OF THE LAUNCHES TO STACK ON SHELVES,

ADD TO MENUS AND SHARE WITH YOUR STYLISTS

Ready to shake things up? Good, because ANTI

has hit the UK. Encapsulating the zeitgeist of

individuality, it’s all about empowering your clients

to celebrate and perfect their unique identity. Forget

labels and rules, forget ‘this should be used for

these types and not those’, forget gender boundaries

and boxes. The latest venture of hairdressing

entrepreneur Francesco Ruggerino, and under the

creative direction of session icon Nick Irwin, the

sleek styling of the capsule collection is inspired by

the edgy, streetwise vibe of New York City. The 10

products cover everything from shampoo to

styling spray, and are power-packed with natural

ingredients which replace the need for silicones.

RRP FROM £28

anticollective.com

One to watch...

ELECTRIC PROFESSIONAL

Electric Professional might not be new, but it’s certainly

one of the most innovative brands around. Each formula is

handcrafted by founder Mark Woolley working with a cosmetic

chemist, with each product taking at least 18 months to

develop. All ingredients are sourced in the UK, which is one of

the reasons he’s bought Falmer Court in East Sussex, where

he’s building a lab and will be growing ingredients for his range.

Mark uses his Art Team, along with session hairdressers and

platform artists globally in extensive testing stages, as well as

his own Electric salon staff.

“I liken us to the 'craft brewer’ of the professional haircare

market,” he explains, stressing that the Electric message is

one of innovation and independence. “We off er the stylist

the chance to be part of something, off ering our education

seminars and events, as well as having something that looks

great in the salon, and has a real story.”

Right now, he’s building a strong community of

hairdressers, recently supporting Johnnie Sapong at

London Fashion Week Men’s, and has an eye on a

bigger digital community of ‘Electric-endorsed Artists,’

where stylists can buy products at a special price

to use on shoots or in the salon, giving them some

margin to retail to their clients. This is with an eye on

the increasing number of hairdressers now working as

independents. Electric Professional is currently in about 60 UK

salons, and close to 200 US salons. “We aim to keep the brand

exclusive with hand-picked salons being invited,” explains

Mark. He’s also committed to supporting salon owners, and

keeps the brand away from discount websites and Amazon.

Its exclusive partnership with Feelunique means the site is

contracted to sell the products only at full price.

Electric might be compact, but Mark is ambitious. New is the

C1 English Rose Serum, and coming soon is the C6 Cloudburst

evaporating mousse and the C8 Invisible Volume Chalk

volume powder. And this summer will also see a collaboration

with British artists on the launch of aluminium shampoo and

conditioner bottles that clients can refi ll back at the salon.

ROSE SERUM RRP £17.50

01273 775397

CREATIVE HEAD

17


Alexis and David Thurston

18

CREATIVE HEAD


THE BIG IDEA

PULP RIOT

“RISK AVERSE” is not a term you would use to describe Alexis and

David Thurston. In 2010 they decided to launch the Butterfly Loft

salon in Los Angeles when they were just good friends, but it wasn’t

long before they realised there was something more. A marriage in

the salon was followed by a brainchild – a vivid hair colour range

called Pulp Riot – that went from a dream to 6,000 US salons in just

13 months. And just under two years on from launch it was snapped

up by L’Oréal – quite the roller coaster.

The couple has a preternatural understanding of the modern

colourist and consumer, illustrated by the products they’ve

developed and the way they’ve engaged their audience. Pulp Riot’s

fun, illustrative packaging and line-up of vivid tones and metallicedged

toners has absolutely captured the zeitgeist – especially as it’s

also vegan, gluten- and cruelty-free. The fact that hairdressers have

lovingly developed this range gives it a visible edge, as does the fact

it’s conditioner-based and has a consistency that makes it a dream

to work with. “For years hair colour has been uninspiring – seen as

a technical product that’s supposed to be hidden away,” says David.

“We thought, let’s make a product line that makes stylists feel like

artists, and a product that you can put out so people can see.”

But for fans of vivids, it’s the fade that has them all a-flutter.

“We’re one of the few product brands that routinely post pictures of

faded hair,” says David proudly. “We set out to create a product that

faded better, and we’ve been able to nail that.”

Like many modern, savvy brands, Pulp Riot has seen the

importance of social media from the beginning, getting across

that they’re powered by people using Pulp Riot as a ‘microphone’,

sharing its social media space to platform artists and grow the

community. “It’s zero degrees of separation between the people

creating the product and the people using it,” explains Alexis. “It’s

a level of authenticity and we’re very transparent with everything –

no secrets, no hidden agenda. People like that.”

And now it’s landed in the UK, available from Salons Direct and

Alan Howard. You can grab toners and semi-permanent colours

now, while permanent colours will follow in the autumn, followed

by aftercare next year. David and Alexis will be touring the UK

with members of their Riot Squad this summer and the plan is to

establish a UK Squad, too.

For anyone who’s worried the vivid colour trend is just a fad,

Alexis has this to say: “It’s going to become more mainstream. You

don’t see a lot of doctors or lawyers with creative colours, but just as

we’ve seen with tattoos, it’s a cultural shift that will continue.”

Oh, and if you’re wondering about the name, it’s simple

mathematics. In column one, David wrote variations of words

pertaining to what was inside the tube. In column two, words

that described the disruptive impact they wanted to make on the

industry. The bottom of column one was ‘pulp’; ‘riot’ was at the top

of column two. Bingo! We think it’s way better than Goo Havoc...

CREATIVE HEAD 19


WHY DID YOU WANT TO BECOME

A HAIRDRESSER?

I’m people person! I have

a passion for art and I

love being creative and

pushing myself to do crazy

things. Hairdressing is an

amazing career with endless

opportunities to grow. I have

learnt a lot about hair, but also

clients, colleagues and even

myself! I love doing hair and

from the day I started I’ve

always tried to push myself to

be the best I can be.

MITCHELL GOUGH

AGE: 22

SALON: HENSMANS, NORTHAMPTON

WHAT HAVE BEEN YOUR HIGHLIGHTS SO FAR?

Assisting in teams at top designers at London Fashion Week,

which gave me a huge insight into the creative side of the industry.

Getting onto the Schwarzkopf Professional Young Artistic Team was

incredible and I really can’t wait to get stuck in!

WHERE DO YOU SEE YOURSELF IN 10 YEARS’ TIME?

I would love to be working alongside top industry experts, pushing

education in hairdressing and sharing knowledge. I’d also love to be

involved with session work, on shoots and at Fashion Week! I love

how diverse hairdressing is; the opportunities are endless.

WHAT WOULD BE YOUR DREAM HAIRDRESSING GIG?

To work on global shoots, marketing campaigns or adverts for big brands, working

alongside top hairdressers like Tyler Johnston and Lesley Jennison to create exciting

new looks. I would love to be involved with the Essential Looks collection from

Schwarzkopf Professional, and I dream of working with legends like Akin Konizi.

20


#CHedit

Inside

story

GATSBY & MILLER AMERSHAM

It’s a daunting but thrilling feeling to be given an entirely blank canvas with

which to devise a new salon – so Gatsby & Miller in Amersham worked

with Reis Design to build a free-fl owing environment where each area

was delineated by colours, textures and the materials used. Identifying

diff erent parts of the salon as either ‘energy areas’ or ‘relaxation spaces’

helped, and from the moment clients walk into the salon there’s no

physical barrier, with the reception desk deliberately set back. High ceilings

and large glass windows create an easy vibe, which continues into the

gender-neutral grooming zone. In the relaxation areas – which include the

beauty treatment areas and the backwash – privacy is created with partial

screening and a lowered ceiling, while low lighting adds to the sense to

intimacy. This salon space retains an industrial feel that’s offset with muted

colour tones and rose gold fi nishes. “The team love it and the feedback

from clients has been fabulous,” beams salon manager Dawn Montgomery.

HOT BUYS

HOLD ME

The Green Hug styling chair from

Maletti Giovannoni Design is an

embrace of plump vinyl padding

and varnished veneered plywood,

creating a smart yet friendly seat

that suits all salons.

£695 (usually £1,090)

020 3207 2032

maletti.co.uk

now open

THE COTERIE SALON, ST. AUSTELL

Cornwall has a new hair hub to enjoy, with

a modern yet welcoming feel with plenty of

light and beautiful finishing touches.

CREATIVE HEAD 21


THE BUSINESS EDIT

MICHAEL

THOMPSON

ADVANCED PRO SALON

WHAT MAKES ADVANCED

PRO SALON COLOURCODE

SO INNOVATIVE?

ColourCode was born from

a simple concept – creating

products your hair would

choose – and focusing on

both stylist and client in

equal measure. It offers

professional permanent

or demi-permanent dual

colour performance across

117 shades with exceptional

coverage, and every shade

is infused and enriched with

ProPlex technology, argan oil

and vitamins B5, C and E.

WHY SHOULD SALONS LOOK

AGAIN AT THEIR COLOUR?

Producing a great range of

shades is no longer enough;

post-colour treatments

merely paper over the cracks.

Advanced Pro Salon is firmly

focused on minimising and

eradicating the damage

in the first place, which

is underpinned by a full

ProPlex and argan oil-infused

professional pre-lightener

range. Even our developers

are enriched with argan oil!

WHAT PLANS DO YOU HAVE

ON THE HORIZON?

The ColourCode range

is available now and we

have new shades already

in development to expand

that range, including

extreme colours. Advanced

Pro Salon is supported by

highly-experienced creative

and technical teams with

decades of high-level salon

experience, who are on hand

to expertly guide a salon.

HAS FRANCHISING

GOT A FRESH FUTURE?

CELEBRITY HAIRDRESSER ANDREW

BARTON has recently revealed that

following his new role as creative director at

national salon chain Headmasters, he has

become a franchisee, taking on the group’s

Mayfair salon (see below). Having been both

a key part of the Toni&Guy and Saks teams

earlier in his career, Andrew also had his own

brand salon before closing in 2015.

Such a big name committing to a franchise

future has shone the spotlight again on what

franchising can bring – both as a franchisee

and as a salon brand that might want to go

down that path. “You have an entire network

dedicated to helping you and your business

– accountancy, sales monitoring, wages,

training, lease negotiations, advertising and

PR is supported,” explains Darren Messias,

joint managing director of KH Hair Group.

But, remember, this comes with a royalties

cost and you’ll need to abide by the rules

of the franchise company and adhere to

its brand values. “Issues can arise when a

franchisee doesn’t agree with one of these

rules or values, so communication from the

very beginning is a key factor,” he adds.

“To get the best out of owning a franchise

you really have to embrace the brand,” says

Barry Jarega, head of business development

at Saks. “We have done extensive research

and we know our target market, so it makes

sense for new franchisees to take advantage

ANDREW BARTON

HEADMASTERS MAYFAIR

of the knowledge and resources available.”

HOB Salons has 25 salons, 10 of which are

franchises launched by six different owners.

Director Clive Collins believes it’s vital for a

new franchisee to keep track of every bit of

money, a common pitfall. “They can spend

too much on day-to-day expenses without

realising the impact on their cashflow – all

these minor expenditures build up,” he says.

“Suddenly they realise they can’t pay their

wage or VAT bill and the business begins to

spiral in a way that’s hard to rectify.”

How can this pitfall be avoided? Be

obsessive! “Check your bank statements

constantly and keep a running total on where

every penny is being spent,” warns Clive.

“Ensure you can cover the essentials with a

buffer to cover anything unexpected.”

And what if you’re a salon owner thinking

about letting others have a slice of the

action? The most difficult part is finding

balance in relinquishing some control, while

remaining true to what you’ve built. “Do you

have the brand and infrastructure to support

future franchisees and make sure they feel

that they are getting value for the royalties

they pay?” asks Darren. “When it’s your

business, any decision you make is yours

alone. However, when you have franchisees

who may not agree with your views or

decisions for the brand, you have to be

prepared to listen and perhaps compromise.”

Every business faces challenges, but working with a large

group offers great expertise and a framework of business skills

to address those challenges. At Headmasters we have a great brand

name with a great reputation, as well as a network of support tools.

Any business comes with huge responsibility, especially the future of

the team, their careers and their income. Attracting clients is a constant drive for a salon

owner, providing staff with clients and effectively managing profit and loss. I speak to

many independent salon owners who feel alone. They’re often one of the busiest stylists

behind the chair, too, and can find it frustrating to find the time and expertise to manage.

Being a franchisee you get so much of this support. A good starting point is to list what the

individual’s expectations are from the franchisor and see how the brand can deliver. I’ve

learnt that this collective approach to building a business is a winning formula.

22

CREATIVE HEAD


Don’t try to make

it on your own …

WE’LL MAKE IT SO MUCH

BETTER TOGETHER!

JOIN US TODAY TO GET THESE FANTASTIC

BENEFITS:

Free everyday business and HR advice from our

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Join

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Join now for less than 75p a day

Call us on: 01234 831965 or

email us: enquiries@nhf.info

www.nhf.info/benefits


#BusinessEdit

KEN’S CLINIC

GOT A BUSINESS HEADACHE? LET KEN WEST, DIRECTOR OF BUSINESS

EXPERTS 3•6•5, OFFER A PERSONAL PRESCRIPTION

KEN’S DIAGNOSIS

This is a great question Adam, but one that will lead me

to ask you some questions at the end.

First, you must remember that the clients that used to

be served by this team member are actually clients of your

salon and not the team member. At least that is how they

should feel. Often salons forget the importance of building

a whole team relationship with a client and leave the

relationship building to a stylist.

It’s quite common that other team members fail to

engage with or get to know all clients, too. If they did get

to know them, then when a stylist left clients would feel

comfortable transferring to another one within the salon

environment that they know, love and feel comfortable in.

Now, that might sound like shutting the

stable door after the ‘horse’ has bolted,

but looking again at your salon culture

might prevent you losing more ‘horses’

in the future.

Referring to my earlier point, the

client belongs to your salon and in

these days of GDPR this is a really

important issue. If the team

member has taken any

contact information then this

could be in breach of GDPR

regulations and a letter from

your solicitor needs to be sent

to the stylist to that effect.

You are responsible for the

security of client data and

therefore your security could

be questioned if they were to

What are the best

strategies to protect

your business when

a senior member

of staff opens a

salon in direct

competition

with you?

ADAM GATES,

GORGEOUS HAIRDRESSING,

BERKHAMSTED

contact your clients. Hopefully all of your team contracts

include clauses regarding GDPR and all of your staff are

aware of this.

Now, back to the clients that you’re concerned about

losing. It’s important to note that they won’t all go – some

will and they will be the ones that, sadly, you will focus on,

because that hurts. The reality is that many won’t leave and

you should love them for it. Reassure them that life will

continue and that all of your team value them and will take

care of them in the future.

As soon as anyone leaves, be proactive. Use every means

possible to engage with the clients that you’re at risk of

losing before they even consider going elsewhere – mail,

email, Facebook, Twitter! Offer them added value or

incentives to stay with you. I’m not a fan of discounts but

I am, however, a big fan of added value.

Be creative, and think outside the box. Offer invitationonly

events to meet your remaining team members while

you share seasonal tips and advice or share fashion trends

and ideas for the future. Excite and intrigue them.

Now the questions, Adam. Apart from relocation or a

change in family circumstances, most people leave a job

because they have been given an ‘opportunity’ elsewhere.

Opportunities come in many forms and could be a

financial reward, promotion, education, extra responsibility

or creative growth. These are all areas that are the

responsibility of a forward-thinking salon owner.

At 3•6•5 we coach salons to find out what people want

and help them to achieve it. Ask yourself these two

questions whenever you lose a quality team member. What

opportunity are they leaving for? Could you have created a

similar opportunity and if not, why not? Food for thought…

DO YOU HAVE A BUSINESS HEADACHE YOU’D LIKE KEN TO HELP WITH?

Email him directly on KenW@365Hair.com or tweet us at @creativeheadmag

24

CREATIVE HEAD


3·6·5 Successful

Business Coaching

for Salons

Are you a

Salon Owner?

Finding it harder and harder

to pull in new clients and recruit

the right team?

In times of change it is important to plan ahead .

With many uncertainties facing the industry and

economy in 2019, 3·6·5 can help to point you in

the right direction.

3·6·5 can provide your salon with successful

business coaching to help promote a

long-term, sustainable future for

your business .

Call us on: 0845 659 0015

www.365SalonEducation.com

Find us: @365SalonEducation


#BusinessEdit

GET ALLERGY

WEEK-READY

“ALLERGY AWARENESS WEEK 2019

is fast approaching and we’re taking the

opportunity to remind salon owners of the

importance of allergy alert testing,” said

NHF/NBF quality and standards director,

Caroline Larissey. “It’s vital to check if

your clients are allergic to hair colour

or treatment products or have any skin

sensitivities,” said Caroline. “You’ll want

to keep your clients safe and also make

sure your insurance will cover you should

something go wrong.”

Hair salons can use the NHF/NBF toolkit

for allergy alert testing for hair colour,

available from nhf.info/shop. It’s free to

Members with £10 P&P. The NHF/NBF has

also developed a toolkit for allergy alert

tests and skin sensitivity tests specifically

for use in beauty salons which will be

available shortly. Allergy Awareness Week

2019 will be held from 29 April to 3 May.

PAY SLIPS REMINDER

MAKE SURE YOUR payslips comply with a new

law that will come into force on 6 April 2019, NHF/

NBF chief executive Hilary Hall has warned. She

explained: “New rules mean all employees’ and

workers’ payslips must now be itemised and

include clear information including gross salary,

deductions, and net pay. The total number of

hours worked must also be included where the

individual’s pay varies according to hours worked.”

Payslips must also clearly state more detailed

information such as payment methods (for

example, part-cash, part-BACS) or different

amounts paid for certain types of work or hours.

Said Hilary: “The new-style payslips will make it

easier to spot and prosecute businesses who

pay below the National Minimum Wage, so it’s

important for employers to get this right.”

PENSION CONTRIBUTIONS

SET TO RISE THIS MONTH

THE MINIMUM CONTRIBUTIONS you and your staff must pay into your

workplace pension scheme is set to increase from 6 April 2019.

“The new minimum amount required by law will go up from 5 per cent to

8 per cent,” explained NHF/NBF director, Tina Beaumont-Goddard. “The

minimum amount the employer is required to contribute is 3 per cent, which

makes the employee’s minimum contribution 5 per cent.”

However, employers can choose to pay more than the minimum

contribution and reduce the amount their staff need to pay to make up the

total to 8 per cent.

“You must automatically enrol certain employees in your workplace

pension scheme,” added Tina. “Employees can opt out, but the law says you

must re-enrol them every three years and tell The Pensions Regulator that

you have done so.”

Find out more at nhf.info/workplacepensions

Costs for older apprentices

to be cut by 50 per cent

THE 10 PER CENT FEE that small businesses pay when they take on apprentices

aged 19 or over will halve from 1 April 2019. The announcement by Chancellor of the

Exchequer Philip Hammond, means that the cash contribution required from employers

will fall to £350 for new starters from this month, having previously been reduced from

£900 to £700 in January.

“We’re delighted that our campaign to reduce the cost of apprenticeships for small

business employers has been successful,” said Hilary Hall, NHF and NBF chief executive.

“Although the reductions were announced in the Autumn Budget, no start date was

given, leading some employers to delay apprenticeship starts. Many salons are put off

from employing older apprentices, so this reduction is good news, but of course there are

still the higher minimum wage costs to pay for anyone aged 19 or over once they have

completed the first year of their apprenticeship.”

26 CREATIVE HEAD


All prices listed are exclusive of VAT

BUSINESS BUILDER

With occasions season just around

the corner, there’s no better

time to stock up on your

Paul Mitchell care and

styling ranges. When

purchasing online,

customers can

take advantage

of our 3 for 2

offer and also

receive a free

75ml Tea Tree

shampoo!

Terms and

conditions apply,

contact Salon

Services for more

information.

THE SERVICE STATION

In association with

Innovative launches, expert advice and business

boosting ideas – drop in and feel the buzz!

ON RIGHT NOW

Now is the perfect time to nurture your

natural beauty with this season’s must-haves.

Throughout April both retail and trade

customers at Salon Services will receive a

free Beauty Bag full of the latest goodies

when spending £50 or more on beauty

products, both online and in-store.

TEACH

ME!

Help your clients get

those yearned-for

long locks in time for

summer with the

Sally Micro-Loop

& Micro-Ring

Hair Extensions

course (£120 exc.

VAT). Great for

expanding your

skillset, this

in-depth course

will teach you all

about the art of

extensions – a

booming business.

WELL-GROOMED

BUYS FOR THE BOYS AT

The Andis and Mike Taylor Salon Services Fade

& Blades course (£150 exc. VAT) is ideal for those

who want to take their barbering skills to the next

level. It teaches students how to create some of

the most sought-after hair and beard styles.

#BusinessEdit

ASK ME

ANYTHING

THERE ARE EXPERTS INSIDE

EVERY BRANCH OF SALON

SERVICES WITH KNOWLEDGE

TO SHARE, SO JUST ASK!

Simone Channe

Store manager at Sally

Salon Services Wembley

Q: With wedding season

around the corner, what

can I do to make sure

it’s a lucrative time for

my business?

A: “First, prioritise

training. From courses

such as Training Solutions’

Wedding Hair Bliss

Bridal & Occasion course

(£95 exc. VAT), to Salon

System’s Marvelash

Eyelash Extension course

(£160 exc. VAT), there are

countless options when

it comes to staying on

top of the latest trends

and techniques. Also,

remember that as well as

educating yourself and

your staff, you should

educate your customers,

too. This can be easily

done when they’re in

your chair. And don’t

forget to share specific

product recommendations!

I particularly love the

Olaplex products to

maintain hair bonds, and

Moroccanoil products for

keeping hair moisturised

and shimmery during the

hot summer months.”

FOR ADVICE ON HOW TO BUILD YOUR BUSINESS, CALL 0330 1231907 OR VISIT SALON-SERVICES.COM

CREATIVE HEAD 27


GLOW

GETTER

TAKE NATURAL HAIR UP A NOTCH WITH JOICO’S NEW

LUMISHINE NATURAL WARM NUDE GLOW SHADES

NATURAL AND NEUTRAL COLOUR palettes are by no means

boring – one look at the soaring popularity of natural and ‘nomake-up

make-up’ on social media can prove that. According

to Infl uenster, in the past 12 months tinted moisturiser reviews

increased by a whopping 408 per cent. It’s all about that

eff ortlessly glamorous look – minimum effort for maximum impact.

So, while Instagram might continue to buzz about pretty pastels

and unicorn-bright hair colours, the majority of your clients are

looking for next-level natural luxe looks. They trust you to deliver

that radiant, holiday glow that enhances their natural beauty.

With a palette of shades that takes natural to new heights,

the LumiShine Natural Warm Nude Glow shades from JOICO

blend warmth and luminous nude tones. From sandy sable to

beachy bronze, these universally fl attering shades are available in

permanent crème, demi-permanent crème and demi-permanent

liquid formats for glowing, gorgeous hair.

I love the new JOICO

LumiShine Natural Warm

Nude Glow shades

because they are

the perfect blend

of neutral and golden

shades to enhance

any skin tone and

bring out natural

luminosity!

LARISA LOVE,

JOICO BRAND

AMBASSADOR

LIT FROM WITHIN

With JOICO’s unique bond-building ArgiPlex

technology, you can deliver gorgeously

shiny colour without sacrifi cing healthy

hair. Using a blend of arginine – a

naturally occurring amino acid crucial to

hair strength – and JOICO’s patented

conditioning complex, the hair shaft is

surrounded and protected, locking in moisture

and shine. Sealing the deal is the Quadramine

Complex, JOICO’s exclusive blend of low-molecular proteins

that help to maximise reconstruction from cuticle to cortex.

SPOILT FOR CHOICE

Choose from 13 glow-giving shades across three formulations

to enhance and lift your clients’ hair – and mood. From golden,

sandy shades to rich brunettes and barely-there bronze, there’s

something to tempt even the most change-averse client.

DELIVERS

UP TO 2X

SHINE*

100%

REPLENISHED

AND

STRENGTHENED

HAIR***

NOURISHING

PROTECTION THAT

SEALS IN MOISTURE,

SOFTNESS AND

SHINE FOR UP TO

30 SHAMPOOS**

OFFERS

100% GREY

COVERAGE WITH

PERMANENT CRÈME

COLOUR, AND OPTIMAL

VISCOSITY FOR BOWL

AND BRUSH OR BOTTLE

APPLICATION – YOU

DECIDE!


CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL

PERMANENT CRÈME

perfect for 100 per cent

grey coverage, reduced

breakage and up to twice

the shine

TOP

TIP!

DEMI-PERMANENT CRÈME

cover and blend greys or create depth and

dimension with lowlighting and shadow-root

DEMI-PERMANENT

LIQUID

refresh, gloss and

tone in a fl ash while

blending away greys

Pair your LumiShine Natural Warm Nude Glow shades with JOICO’s game-changing Defy Damage Pro

Series for next-level colour saturation. Prep hair with Pro Series 1, a bond-protecting colour optimising

spray which shields hair from damage while improving colour deposit and lift. Apply your formula of

choice, shampoo out and then lock in that incredible shine with Pro Series 2 at the backwash. The

result? Guaranteed healthier-looking hair after each LumiShine colour service. Now, go get that glow!

*Versus untreated damaged hair **When followed with JOICO K-Pak Color Therapy Shampoo and Conditioner ***Versus hair color without AriPlex

CREATIVE HEAD

SHOW YOUR CLIENT’S GLOW WITH JOICO LUMISHINE NATURAL WARM NUDE GLOW SERIES –

FOR MORE INFORMATION, CALL 0845 071 2326 OR VISIT JOICO-LUMISHINE.COM

@joicoeurope #hairfeels

49


2019

SALON

SESSION

STARS

CREATIVE HEAD’S MOST WANTED AWARDS

CELEBRATE AWESOME TALENT AND EXCELLENCE

IN ALL AREAS OF HAIRDRESSING. THE 2019

COMPETITION IS NOW OPEN – WOULD THE STARS

OF SALON AND SESSION PLEASE STAND UP?


NEW!

ALL CATEGORIES NOW OPEN TO THE UK AND IRELAND

CATEGORY SPONSOR

CATEGORY SPONSOR

INDIVIDUAL AWARDS

NEW!

INDEPENDENT STYLIST

For a stylist looking after clients at a salon while busy building ‘Brand Me’

MALE GROOMING SPECIALIST

For a salon or session hairdresser demonstrating standout work in men’s hair

CREATIVE TALENT

For a creative director or senior stylist with exceptional artistic skill and commercial expertise

BUSINESS THINKER

For a salon owner or director who has built an outstanding salon business

COLOUR EXPERT

For a colour director or senior colourist with exceptional technical skill and commercial expertise

HAIR TREND

For the best on-trend image of the year

AWARD FOR INNOVATION

Rewarding an original hairdressing initiative that has proved a success for the salon business or the industry at large

SESSION STYLIST

For the most exciting hairdresser working in fashion (by nomination only)

HAIR ICON

For the most inspirational hairdresser of 2019 (by nomination only)

TEAM AWARDS

NEW! BEST NEW BOUTIQUE SALON

For a new small salon with a unique sense of style

BEST SALON TEAM

For salon teamwork at its best

BEST LOCAL SALON

For a salon that best serves its local community

BEST NEW SALON

For a new or revamped salon that turns heads

BEST SALON EXPERIENCE

For a salon that delivers top customer service

event

COMPETITION CLOSES MONDAY 13 MAY

ENTRY FORMS CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM/MOSTWANTED

FOLLOW THE ACTION @CREATIVEHEADMAG #MWIT19

QUESTIONS? CALL +44 (0)1434 610940 OR EMAIL EVENTS@ALFOL.CO.UK


CREATIVE HEAD’S SEARCH FOR THE MOST EXCITING NEW UK

AND IRISH HAIRDRESSING STARS IS ON. DO YOU HAVE IT?


WORK HARD.

DREAM BIG.

GET NOTICED!

FOR HAIRDRESSERS AGED 30 OR UNDER

ALL CATEGORIES NOW OPEN TO THE UK AND IRELAND!

THE RISING STAR

For a young salon assistant who’s enthusiastic, hardworking

and fast improving – a new team star!

TO BE NOMINATED BY THE SALON OWNER OR MANAGER

THE FASHIONISTA

For a young stylist making a mark in session circles

THE ENTREPRENEUR

For a young salon owner who has created an exciting and successful business

THE VISIONARY

For a young stylist or technician who is pushing creative boundaries

THE IT GUY/GIRL

Two trophies – one for a guy, one for a girl – awarded to a young hairdressing

professional excelling in multiple areas of their work and destined for greatness

event

COMPETITION CLOSES MONDAY 20 MAY

ENTRY FORMS CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM/THEITLIST

FOLLOW THE ACTION @CREATIVEHEADMAG #MWIT19

QUESTIONS? CALL +44 (0)1434 610940 OR EMAIL EVENTS@ALFOL.CO.UK


IN SESSION

MEN

MONDAY 20 MAY 2019

7PM UNTIL 10PM, LONDON

WORKING LIVE ON SET AND IN CONVERSATION WITH LEE KYNASTON,

STYLE & GROOMING JOURNALIST FOR THE TELEGRAPH & MR PORTER

JODY TAYLOR

DYNAMIC. TECHNICAL. FORWARDTHINKING.

MALE GROOMING SPECIALIST.


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SEE

PAGE 51


ANTI

ordinary

SO MANY BRANDS TREAD THE SAME PATH,

BUT ANTI IS BREAKING NEW GROUND

36 CREATIVE HEAD


ANTI ordinary.

ANTI judgement.

ANTI limitation.

BORN FROM THE NEED for profound change in our industry, ANTI is a new

haircare range with a radical vision. It’s a brand that does not label or dictate

but revels in individuality while bringing people together in consciousness.

Its bold capsule collection was created to support salon owners, celebrate

hairdressers and empower consumers to champion their unique identity, that

they are anything but ordinary.

Founded by hairdressing entrepreneur Francesco Ruggerino, the ANTI

collective is inspired by the street culture and progressive attitude of New York

City. “ANTI is a brand that brings people together, stands strong with a moral

compass and initiates positive change in the industry and the world,” he says.

For such a boundary-pushing brand, collaborating with equally creative

artists is paramount. The brand’s global creative director, Nick Irwin, is

marrying his extensive salon and session experience with the brand’s

enthusiasm for change and cult-cool aesthetic. “I’ve known Nick for a long time

and we share the same values and passion for our industry – ANTI presented

the perfect opportunity,” Francesco explains. “Nick is ANTI to his core and I

know he, like many others, wants to see a new age in hairdressing.”

“It’s time for change in the

industry and in the world.

ANTI is at the heart of that”

NICK IRWIN

CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL

The ANTI Heroes

A collection of 10 gender-neutral products, the ANTI portfolio is high performance and no-nonsense with

its bold packaging, to keep the focus on the sophisticated finish. These are our ANTI hero product picks…

EVERYTHING

SPRAY

A leave-in

conditioning spray

to add moisture,

detangle and soften.

FINISHING

CREAM

A lightweight, multipurpose

cream that

adds moisture, control

and shine.

TEXTURE

SPRAY

A salt spray that

creates effortless

matte texture without

weighing hair down.

STYLING

SPRAY

A workable styling

spray that provides

volume, control and

heat protection.

SHINE

SPRAY

An aerosol-free

finishing mist for

intense shine and a

smooth finish.

Explore the possibilities – contact connectuk@anticollective.com or visit anticollective.com

@anti.collective

CREATIVE HEAD

37


Redken

Steps to your

best blondes

ever

We don’t know whether blondes have more fun,

but we do know it’s the UK’s number one choice

for hair colour, so it’s clear they mean business.

Help your blondes to shine bright and you’ll win

clients for life. Here’s our five-step plan to ensure

blondes are always your best friends in the salon…

It’s all about… Performance

“CLIENTS HAVE TO think hard about going blonde – and staying fresh-outof-the-chair

blonde – it’s very high maintenance,” says Bruno Marc Giamattei,

JOICO ambassador for Europe, the UK and Ireland, and director of Marc Antoni

salons. So the challenge is to be able to create the best blondes, which means

you need the best tools at your fingertips. Luckily, there have never been betterperforming

products than are available today.

Preparation is key, so it’s important to remove old colour in way that doesn’t

compromise hair quality, giving you a blank canvas to work from. “Colour

removal and lightening within the salon can be a difficult process, with some

client requests seeming impossible without causing a lot of damage to the hair,”

explains Sam Brunton, business development manager at Hair Tools, which

offers the Zalon Pro London Colour Remover – a quick, easy and healthy way of

removing artificial colour. “Zalon targets only the artificial molecules within the

cortex of the hair, shrinks them down and allows them to escape through the

cuticle and be rinsed away. The argan oil also adds condition and shine.”

The Affinage Salon Infiniti High Lift Series formula ensures even results

every time you use it and has added anti-fade technology for longer-lasting

blondes. Available in four shades, this clever lightener contains 90 per cent

naturally-derived ingredients including shea butter and argan oil, so it’s

great for health and environmentally-conscious clients who still want

outstanding results.

The ColourCode Special Blondes range from Advanced Pro Salon features

three pre-lighteners, so you can choose the specific look you’re trying to

achieve. “Powerful anti-oxidants are also infused into each tube with the

addition of vitamins C and E, which reduce the damage and colour interference

caused by free radicals,” explains Jordan Lee-White, Advance Pro Salon

ColourCode creative director. “Pro-vitamin B5 adds essential moisture, too,

to help prevent damage and reduce brittleness.”

54 40 CREATIVE HEAD


VEGAN

COLOUR

REMOVER

AMMONIAFREE BLEACHFREE

WITH

ARGAN

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Liftthecolourwithoutthebleach!

Zalontargetsonlytheartificial

moleculeswithinthehair’scortex,shrinks

them down&alowsthem toescape

throughthecuticle&berinsedaway,

returningtheclienttotheir

lightestpreviousshadeofpigment.

Haircanthenbecoloured

immediatelyafterifrequired.

BEFORE

AFTER

30MIN

PROCESS

BEFORE AFTER AFTERCOLOUR

@zalonprolondon

BEFORE

AFTER

zalonlondon.com


#Blondes

Live True Princess Hair

L’Oréal Professionnel

It’s all about… Technique

ONCE YOU’VE CONSIDERED performance, it’s time to take a

look at your method. Gone are the days of a simple half-head of

highlights – now there are countless ways to bring your clients

to the lighter side.

The team at Live True in London has developed a balayage

technique called Princess Hair that achieves the oft-requested

look. Instead of backcombing, the stylist applies colour with a

special freehand technique and then uses a hairdryer to apply

heat, creating a stronger colour lift. The result is a beautifully

blended, iridescent colour that still looks very natural. Because

it’s so easy to blend, it’s also easy to wear. “With its almost

too good to be true finish – it’s akin to the glorious hair

that Disney princesses have,” says Valerie Maine,

director at Live True.

James Taylor of Moose House of Hair in Market

Harborough agrees that placement is key. “We don’t

need to do full heads, it’s

more about face framing.

Make sure you apply

foils in the places that

are easy to forget: if the

client wears their hair in

a ponytail or tucks their

hair behind their ear, make

sure there are foils at the nape

of the neck and behind the ear

– otherwise they’ll feel this looks

really dark and won’t be happy.”

Meanwhile, Christel Lundqvist,

founder of Stil salon in

London and winner

of Most Wanted Best

Salon Experience, has

developed the Prism

Lights technique,

to maximise shine for blondes. “Prism Lights are freehandpainted

in fine strands of lighter colour through the roots

to the mid-lengths,” she explains. “Then the end of the hair

is freehand-painted with a layering effect using two subtle,

lighter shades. It allows light to open up and stream through

the hair, creating a halo around the face.”

At Trevor Sorbie, international technical director Nathan

Walker has created the Express Brightening service. “Simple

and quick, Express Brightening is an ideal introduction to

professional colour,” he explains. “The trend for

lower maintenance hair looks set to stay, so I

created these techniques to give a personal

and tailored colour experience in the

shortest amount of time.”

And no matter what technique you

decide on, Paper Not Foil offers the

perfect way to process your work of

art. Launched in New Zealand by

hairdresser Amanda Buckingham, it’s

both effective and environmentallyfriendly.

“Foil can’t be recycled

unless it is completely clean, and

the overwhelming majority of it

isn’t,” she explains. “I wanted to

create something that would be

as efficient as foil, if not better,

than it, but that was also

completely sustainable.”

This game-changing product

is super-speedy and can be

re-used. “Everyone wants to

make a difference to their

waste, and this is a way that

salons and clients can do

so,” adds Amanda.

42

CREATIVE HEAD


GOODBYE TO ALUMINIUM FOIL


#Blondes

ALFAPARF Milano

Neville Hair and Beauty Chocolate Blonde

Allilon Hair Education

It’s all about…Results

THE TRUE BEAUTY of blonde is that there are so many

different tones available. From sumptuous caramels to ashy

whites, there’s a finish for every client. Rich, warm shades are

popular for their low maintenance, and can be a delicious way

to add some interest for the new season. As can be seen across

Instagram, one thing has become clear – it’s all about tone, which

presents a brilliant opportunity for salons.

Neville Hair & Beauty in London has added Chocolate

Blonde and Butter Blonde to its menu of services, with the

former achieved by combining subtle hair painting with colourintensifying

foils. The result is soft, lived-in hair that stands out

due its versatility. “It works on all hair types and base colours,

and Redken’s Shade EQ helps achieve an uncontrived effect,”

says Elena Lavagni, co-owner of Neville Hair & Beauty.

Madeline Murphy, colour director at Allilon Hair Education

and Ena salon, stresses that you must always understand your

canvas. She says: “It’s so important to think about bleaches and

toners in particular and really educate yourself about underlying

pigments in the hair, what tone will be present in the hair when

lifting, as well as the counteracting tones.”

And toners can also create a very specific shade – so if your

client prefers a warm or cool tone you can bring their dreams

to life. ALFAPARF Milano Pigments come in colours such

as ash gold and rose copper and can be used in high or low

concentration. Simply add them to colour formulas, smoothing

treatments or selected ALFAPARF Milano styling products for a

boost or to refresh tired-looking hair between colour services.

Suzanne Alphonse, commercial technical education manager

at Wella Professionals, cites the brand’s Glossing Service for

blondes as a stable way of infusing colour. “It’s like putting on a

top coat on over a nail or lip colour,” she explains.

44

CREATIVE HEAD


ALLILON UK:

COLOUR COURSES 2019

Primary Colour Techniques

13th – 16th May

Advanced Colour & Foil Work

22nd – 25th July

Mention Creative HEAD when

booking to receive a gift from us

on the first day of the course.

Did you know, here at Allilon we

offer a complete range of four day

cut and colour courses in our

London academy to suit all needs.

To learn more SEARCH: ALLILON


#Blondes

It’s all about…

Hair health

OF COURSE, blonde hair only remains beautiful as long

as it’s healthy. Ensure you’re entirely honest about what is

and isn’t possible before you begin any process. “To always

get the best result you need to meet or manage your client’s

expectations,” explains James Taylor at Moose House of Hair.

“To go from dark to white blonde won’t happen how they

think it will! If you can educate them on the science behind

why it won’t work or why it will take time, then it helps them

understand, rather than them thinking that you can’t be a

very good hairdresser if you can’t do it!”

Luckily, bonding additives mean that hair can be kept

healthier than ever before even during the blonding process

– think of them as preventative measures rather than damage

control. The original bonding additive, Olaplex, changed hair

colour forever. “Olaplex will help to repair the most damaged

hair, protect it during colour services and help to optimise

results, therefore increasing client satisfaction,” explains

Vanessa Boland, Olaplex educator. “Clients are more aware of

the damage colouring can cause to their hair and healthy hair

is an important factor for many clients.”

Now savvy-salons are aware of the multiple benefits of

including additives in technical services. “We use L’Oréal

Professionnel Smartbond – it makes blondes lighter with

clean results and leaves hair in great condition,” says Andria

Kaisharis, colour director at Fowler35.

The new Defy Damage in-salon treatment from JOICO can

be used with any colour and lightening brand and helps to

strengthen and protect bonds while improving results and

saving time. The first step, Pro Series 1, is a simple spray that

makes lightening processes more effective, while the second,

Pro Series 2, strengthens and hydrates.

So, how can you ensure that your clients opt for an

additive? “Present your client with a visual,” suggests

Vanessa. “Bleach two wefts – one with Olaplex, and one

without, and do this a few times to mimic a second and third

session of lightening. Present them to clients and let them

feel the difference for themselves.”

46

CREATIVE HEAD


#Blondes

@isamayaffrench, colour by @amyfishcolour

It’s all about… Aftercare

THE LONGER YOUR clients’ hair looks great, the happier they’ll be with

your service. That means you need to ensure they leave the salon with

everything they need to keep their newly-blonde hair shining bright.

“Aftercare is super-important for all colour clients, but for blondes it is

essential,” explains Amy Fish, colour queen at Larry King in London. “When

clients go blonde they invest so much time and money on it, so you want them

to continue that at home and keep their hair colour looking the best it can.”

The key to this, says Amy, is communication. “Everyone sees colour

differently so it’s you need to understand what shade your client loves.

Educating them about the right aftercare is important so that the client will

respect and understand the maintenance of their blonde.”

And it’s essential that the plan you come up

with fits your client’s lifestyle. “Having an in-depth

consultation with our clients allows us to create

a tailored aftercare plan,” says Johanna Herald,

senior master stylist at Charles Worthington Percy

Street in London. “We can discuss and agree on the

upkeep routine that suits them.”

When it comes to minimising brassiness, Amy

Redken

recommends Redken Blondage. “It smells

gorgeous and is high in pigment, which is

great for colourists. Blondage has an equal

mix of moisturising and strengthening

factors, which is perfect for blondes who

like their hair ‘ashier’ as it will remove any

yellow tones in the hair – but it also works for

brunettes whose hair fades to red.”

Adam Reed, editorial ambassador for

L’Oréal Professionnel and co-founder of

Percy & Reed salons, believes that the

most common concerns for blonde hair are

breakage, damage and lack of shine. He adds:

“It’s important to manage colour with at-home

haircare such as L’Oréal Professionnel Serie

Expert Blondifier, which can help brighten

blonde in-between colour appointments.”

Innoluxe’s platinum range contains a

shampoo, conditioner and masque to help

maintain blonde hair by deleting yellow tones

and adding moisture. New Olaplex No. 4

shampoo and No. 5 conditioner mean clients

maintain their hair health after they’ve left

the salon. “They contain the active ingredient

in Olaplex so you’re repairing the bonds

in your hair while you cleanse! They also

address moisture concerns and leave hair

silky-smooth,” adds Vanessa Boland. “They

can offer a way for salons to boost retail sales

because they are an extension to the

salon service.”

48

CREATIVE HEAD


Chloe NØrgaard

for Redken 5th Avenue

BREAK UP WITH BRASSY BLONDE.

BE A STRONG, BRIGHT BLONDE.

NEW COLOR EXTEND BLONDAGE.

COLOR-DEPOSITING SHAMPOO & CONDITIONER FOR BLONDE HAIR

Color Extend Blondage with ultra violet pigment and Triple

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in one for a brighter, stronger * blonde.

*System vs non-conditioning shampoo


J

APRIL/MAY/JUNE

APRIL/MAY

A

AY

/ UNE

2019

MISTER QUARTERLY


THE FACES, THE PLACES, THE NEWS, THE VIEWS

Mr. Q

welcomes you…

No April fools in this issue of Mr Q – we’re all about getting

your barbering business in shape to tackle what the future

has to challenge you with! Check out our tips on page 6. We

caught up with Kyle Ross of Sovereign, formerly Huntsman

barber shop in Aberdeen, and got the lowdown from

Charles Jeffrey’s London Fashion Week Men’s show, styled

by John Vial for Revlon Professional. Oh, and there’s some

artistic work to enjoy by Tony Haresign and Allan Stone, too.

YOU NEED

TO MEET…

CONNOR EVANS

Men’s Grooming Company

GET SMART

WHAT ALL BARBERS SHOULD DO THIS QUARTER

1.

first men’s event, hosted by

See… Most Wanted Male

Grooming Specialist Jody Taylor

and Liam Campbell styling up a

storm at The Coterie: In Session’s

grooming guru Lee Kynaston.

creativeheadmag.com/thecoterie

2.

mostwanted

3.

Enter… the Most Wanted Male

Grooming Specialist Award,

sponsored by American Crew.

The deadline is 13 May.

Download your form at

creativeheadmag.com/

Follow… all the action from the

Men’s Image Award at this year’s

L’Oréal Colour Trophy Grand

Final at Battersea Evolution.

Follow @creativeheadmag on

Instagram on 3 June for all

the updates as they happen

Describe yourself in five words

Creative, ambitious, adaptable,

motivated, persistent.

What’s exciting you about British

barbering right now?

I’m love the fact that I’m being

inspired by barbers young and old,

pushing the boundaries in British

barbering and male grooming to

a whole new level. It’s such an

exciting time for our industry,

fusing traditional barbering with

modern techniques and styles.

If I could change one thing…

I would stop the opening of any

more barber shops until the industry

is regulated and accountable for

the services provided by cheap

unqualifi ed barbers. Until this is

done these types of barber shops

will undermine the professional

skills of real barbers and shops

trying to give good reliable services

for their clients.

ON THE COVER

Hair by Adee Phelan for SKNHEAD

The barbers that most inspired

me are…

Sid Sottung is one of the most

amazing barbers I have ever had the

pleasure to work with, he taught

me everything I know. He is an

amazing teacher and he still inspires

me to this day. Dan Davies and Tom

Chapman’s on-going support has

been brilliant, too.

Who else should we get to know?

@Staceyayles is an incredibly

talented barber, a fellow ambassador

for the Lions Barbers Collective and

there’s no one else I would rather

have working alongside me. My

younger brother @ciaranevans94

is an incredible barber who inspires

me every day in the shop, I’m so

proud of him.

Say hello to me at

Instagram: @connorevanshair;

Facebook:

@Men’sGroomingCompany

02 Mister Quarterly


Gemma Willock-Smith

NEW LIONS

BARBERS

REVEALED

NEW GROOM ROOM

The Barber Shop at Gina Conway

ALL STAR CHALLENGE

GEMMA WILLOCK-SMITH from Frequency Barber in

Glasgow scooped first place at this year’s American Crew

All Star Challenge UK final. Along with Irish winner Chris

O’Riordan from ST4Men, they’ll go into the next round to

determine who makes the global final in New York on 19

May, where American Crew celebrates its 25th anniversary.

Kieran Evans from Jacks of London (UK) and Signature

Hair’s Barry Kieran (Ireland) were runners-up.

The Lions Barber Collective has

revealed its 2019 ambassadors. The

charity, which raises awareness

of men’s mental health and was

founded by barber Tom Chapman, the

ambassadors will help with awareness

and support with fundraising. They are

Sam Wall (Newcastle), Stacey Ayles

(Weymouth), Connor Evans (Coventry),

Dan Davies (London), Lesley MacBain

(Liverpool), Darren Birch (Warwick

and Leicester), Tommie McGuckin

(Scotland), Ken Hermes (London),

Mark Loftin (Exmouth) and Jac

Ludlow (Wales and Norway).

Master barber Andrea D’Anna has been

working behind the scenes for months to

help build The Barber Shop at Gina Conway.

A dedicated area in the Notting Hill salon,

it provides a variety of men’s services from

a quick cut to a customised grooming

experience with classic haircuts, nail services,

hot towel shaves, and facial experiences.

The new service menu uses traditional men’s

grooming techniques alongside the Aveda

Men skincare and hair care, and will offer

value-add Aveda Rituals to clients, too.


#TRENDING

Photography courtesy of Revlon Professional

CHARLES

JEFFREY A/W19

John Vial for Revlon Professional

The Charles Jeffrey A/W19 show was a vivid re-imagining

of the ’20s and its androgynous Bright Young Things, with

inspiration drawn from a 1923 edition of Peter Pan. Hair lead

John Vial, global influencer for Revlon Professional, channelled

Charles’s love affair with the decade, using origami hair with folds

and tucks to emanate the structures of cloche hats worn in the era.

Also added into the mix were references to the wild youth of

Lord of the Flies and the Eton Crop, first made famous by Josephine

Baker, with slicked-back, shining hair finished with a few curls.

Models with longer hair saw John get a little playful. He prepped

with Revlon Professional Style Masters Modular Hairspray then

placed a ruler halfway down the hair to use as a base for folding

the ends up to create the line. The folded ends were then

resprayed before drying to set in place. Once the shape

was complete, Revlon Professional Style Masters

Glamourama was spritzed all over to

create a glass-like shine.

04 Mister Quarterly


ON THE SHELF

BOYS’ TOYS

THE HOTTEST STOCK, TOOLS AND FURNITURE FOR YOUR BARBER SHOP

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La Biosthétique’s new men’s range,

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Mister Quarterly 05


08 Mister Quarterly

BARBER SHOPS SAW THE GREATEST NUMBER OF OPENINGS IN

2017, DRIVEN BY INDEPENDENT BUSINESSES. WITH INCREASED

COMPETITION FOR STAFF AND CUSTOMERS, HOW CAN YOU

FUTUREPROOF YOUR BUSINESS AND ENSURE IT GOES THE DISTANCE?


Noticed a new barber shop opening near you? You won’t

be the only one. According to the Local Data Company’s

Retail and Leisure Trends Report for 2017/2018, barber

shops enjoyed the highest number of openings in 2017.

With so much choice on offer, attracting loyal customers

and talented staff is becoming harder than ever. The

pressure is on – here’s a little help…

BUILD THE RIGHT TEAM…

AND GET THEM THE RIGHT SKILLS

Want to ensure the success of your barber shop in a competitive

world? Ruffians’ co-founder Andrew Cannon is adamant that it’s

all about building the right team. “You can have a fancy fit-out,

the best product on the market and an advertising budget to rival

Coca-Cola – but if your team is not happy and motivated then it

is all for nothing,” he says. “The clients will see through it and

will not want to return to your shop. Build a happy team and the

clients will feed off that energy and keep coming back.”

But how do you do this? Listen to them. “It is so important that

staff feel valued and have a voice within the team, whether they

The Bluebeards Revenge

are a trainee or a store manager,” Andrew adds. “Each of them

plays a key role in the team, each will be a different character

with different ideas, concerns, emotions and so on. It’s key to

listen to them all.”

So you have your team in place – what now? “Staying educated

is the key to staying competitive,” believes Jo Martin, marketing

director at Sally Europe. “When a client walks through your door

asking for a specific look, they expect you to know your stuff.”

Male grooming is now so much more than just a short back and

sides and it’s tough to track change, but looking both within and

beyond your own barber shop will help to reveal shifting trends. The

Bluebeards Revenge team recommends keeping an eye on A-list

celebrities and current streetwear brands that have a recognised

influence. Does your team know about Paul Pogba’s most recent

hair update? How has Supreme styled its latest lookbook?

After surveying more than 2,000 people, The Bluebeards

Revenge discovered that male clients’ hair is set to get longer,

and beards more groomed in 2019. Two-thirds of the men

that answered yes to changing their haircut in the year ahead

suggested that their new look would be of medium to mediumlong

length, while 33 per cent are planning to embrace more

rugged designer stubble or fully-fledged beards.

“The 21st century man doesn’t want to go into a barber shop for

a quick haircut anymore,” explains Jim Shaw, owner of essensuals

Men Toni&Guy in Billericay. “It’s so important to be able to offer

many different services so that clients leave your salon looking

and feeling the best version of themselves.” Whether that’s offering

traditional hot towel shaves or eyebrow waxing, facials or scalp

massages, spend the time so clients spend the money.

Even time-pressed clients can be catered for if you’re able to

open up early or cater for before and after normal work hours.

Offer speedy, effective solutions to requests; for example Redken

Brews’ Camo Color and Goldwell’s Men Reshade options give

subtle grey coverage in the blink of an eye and can be applied at

the backwash. Quick and uncomplicated, these are no-brainer

services which will make a big difference to your sales.

Providing opportunities for your staff to push themselves and

grow can see their confidence boosted and skills soaring. Baldy,

owner of Baldy’s Barbers in Aylesbury, says: “Competitions

such as the American Crew All Star Challenge give barbers and

men’s stylists a global showcase for their work. It’s also judged

completely blind by independent judges which is really amazing.”

FIND YOUR PERFECT MATCH…

AND GET PRESCRIBING!

The right product brand to partner with can bring a huge

boost, both in resources, education and name recognition, and

there are a number of great brands to choose from. When iconic

hairdresser Adee Phelan created SKNHEAD, he did so following

years of brand affiliations – figuring out what did and didn’t

work. Sticking with one brand without shopping around, or only

considering a small pool of options, can blind you to potentially

perfect partnerships, he said.

“Barber shops should be looking for a brand that continues to

bring out modern products and has a vision of the future. It’s

important that the brand trusts the salon or barber shop as more

than just somewhere to house its products,” Adee explains.

Retail is so much more than just an additional revenue

stream. It’s worthwhile spending the time on your staff’s product

Mister Quarterly 09


the kind of experience you want your client to enjoy and ensure

your service is second-to-none,” advises Kate Wrighton, territory

sales manager for Takara Belmont. “Space planning is vital to a

first-class client experience, but it also enables you to plan your

service menu for new revenue streams.”

“You need to really invest in your chairs, choosing a brand

that is well known for its quality,” Terry Bunn, Maletti’s salon

designer, suggests. “When it comes to stations you need to ensure

you are working with materials that are resistant to water

damage. If possible, choose materials that age well with time:

solid wood doors, granite tops and ceramic sinks.”

Trend-chasing can compromise both quality and experience;

the details matter. “Barber shops mean more than just haircuts.

You need to combine both trend and expertise, design and

functionality, style and professionalism,” explains Sarah Dade,

UK manager for Salon Ambience.

Finally, it’s important not to neglect the first impression of

your shop from an outsider’s perspective – sometimes literally.

“The shop window is important and has to be integrated into the

design, as it’s one of your best forms of advertising,” Terry adds.

knowledge, so that they know each one inside-out. Confident

stylists will see the sales follow naturally. “Let’s say you went to

the doctor and had a check-up, you’d expect that the doctor would

give you the right prescription,” Adee reasons. “Barbers and

hairdressers should be doing the same thing.”

According to Sue Whitehead, managing director of Jacks of

London, it’s worth salon owners and managers relinquishing

some control so that barbers feel empowered to take on

responsibility for success. Her suggestion? Using business

software to show proof of how changes to how they work can have

an impact on the bottom line. “A reluctance to promote add-on

services might seem like obstinacy to you, but it may just be a

fundamental lack of understanding from them,” she explains.

“They simply ‘might not know what they don’t know’, and merely

telling them is not enough. If you can show them what

you mean, and your data allows you to do that, then

you can break through and set them on the path to

lasting success.”

ENSURE YOUR SHOP

LOOKS THE PART…

AND DELIVERS

ON SERVICE

Placing the customer experience

at the centre of what you do

means you need to consider

how your shop looks and

the physical flow of your

client’s journey through

the space, alongside

what’s on your

service menu.

“Build your

equipment around

SKNHEAD

ENGAGE WITH YOUR AUDIENCE…

AND WATCH THE FOOTFALL RISE

At Jacks of London, the team works hard on creating a

‘frictionless experience’. “We’ve embraced technology, meeting

our target audience not just via our channels but also on other

platforms they love, such as our recent collaborations with The

Idle Man and other influencers. We are constantly developing

fresh marketing campaigns,” Sue explains.

At Barber + Blow the brand has a very clean, clear approach

and customer appeal, which translates into its curated feed on

social media. Barber and owner Benjamin May explains: “We

don’t over-post and don’t flood our followers with similar images

in a repeated sequence. It’s always fun to create great imagery.”

Riding the tide of trends isn’t enough to guarantee success, but

taking these steps to future-proof your business from whatever

challenges are heading your way will see customers coming

through your doors long after the beard buzz dies down.

Benjamin May, Barber + Blow

10 Mister Quarterly


FOLLOW US @AMERICANCREWUK


KEEP IT SLICK

STRIKING IN ITS SIMPLICITY, SLICKERS IS A COLLABORATIVE

COLLECTION BY TONY HARESIGN AND ALLAN STONE,

A MONOCHROMATIC STUDY OF THE ‘CITY BOY’ LOOK

PHOTOGRAPHY BY MARIE HARKNESS

12 Mister Quarterly


Hair: Tony Haresign (@hairbytonyharesign) and Allan Stone (@allanbarberstone).

Make-up: Ellie Gibson (@elliegibsonx). Photography: Marie Harkness (@harknessphotography)

Mister Quarterly 13


SHOP TALK

POLE POSITION

SOVEREIGN

KYLE ROSS HAS BIG DREAMS ABOUT REIGNING SUPREME WITH

HIS BRAND OF VINTAGE-INSPIRED MODERN BARBER SHOPS

Kyle Ross

Kyle Ross is ready to take the barbering

crown. His Aberdeen-based barber shop

Sovereign, formerly Huntsman, is built

around three core pillars – cutting, care

and education – and it is this approach

which has seen him win multiple awards

and be shortlisted for GQ’s Barber of the

Year 2019.

“We execute the best haircuts we can,

but we really like to educate – and not

just our team. We’re focused on educating

our clients, tailoring their haircut to suit

their lifestyle,” Kyle explains.

Often handing the brush and the dryer

to the client after demonstrating how

to finish their hair, he’s determined to

foster an atmosphere where clients feel

understood and leave feeling confident

that they can look great for weeks to

come. “There’s no point giving a haircut

to someone who then doesn’t have the

time to get it to sit in that style every

day,” he adds.

Every detail of Sovereign has become

focused around offering a level of service

that fits into the modern man’s lifestyle.

Open six days a week and starting from

7am for three of those days, the team

has been hand-picked to offer a

breadth of services, including hot towel

shaving, eyebrow waxing and chemical

straightening. From early gym-goers

to the working professional, Kyle wants

to be able to deliver an exquisite finish

that leaves every client feeling on top

of their game.

With outlets in Edinburgh and Glasgow

planned in the next year, Kyle is ready to

expand his empire. This month sees the

launch of a line of male beauty and spa

treatments, as well as a retail range on

the brand’s new online store. Long may

this Sovereign reign…

14 Mister Quarterly


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AND THE IT LIST AWARDS CELEBRATE

PEOPLE WHO DO REMARKABLE

THINGS. THE BIG NEWS FOR 2019?

ALL CATEGORIES ARE NOW OPEN FOR

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THROUGHOUT THE UK AND IRELAND!

event

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IN SESSION MEN

20/05/19 LONDON

MEET THE GENTS MASTERING MALE GROOMING – WATCH THEM WORKING LIVE ON SET!

GET INSIDER INSIGHT, TIPS AND TECHNIQUES!

JODY TAYLOR

He regularly collaborates with titles like GQ and Esquire, has

worked with brands from Louis Vuitton to Dior and notable

names such as Callum Turner and Conor McGregor. AND

he’s our 2018 Most Wanted Male Grooming Specialist.

LIAM CAMPBELL

From a stint in the British Army to freelance barber and

creator of Brother Barber, Liam’s trade has taken him

from Australia to India, backstage on The X Factor and

styling for the likes of Diesel and Ted Baker.

HOST:

LEE KYNASTON

Steering conversation is Lee Kynaston,

style and grooming journalist for the

likes of Balance, Stella, Fashion Beans,

Mr Porter and The Daily Telegraph.

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THEY

ALL

HAVE

IT!

THEY’RE THE HOTTEST YOUNG STARS

OF THE HAIRDRESSING WORLD – MEET

THE 2018 WINNERS OF THE IT LIST, IN

ASSOCIATION WITH GHD. IT’S OPEN TO

BRIGHT YOUNG THINGS UNDER THE AGE

OF 30 AND A PRECURSOR TO A METEORIC

RISE IN THE INDUSTRY. SO HOW HAVE THE

LIVES OF OUR WINNERS CHANGED?


#TheItList

THE RISING STAR

JORDAN MASSARELLA,

NASHWHITE

‘SHOOTING STAR’ MIGHT be a more accurate title for Jordan Massarella.

Alongside a flourishing column at NashWhite in Leamington Spa, his flair for

colour has seen his career soar. After winning the L’Oréal Colour Trophy Afro

Award in 2017 and earning a place as a L’Oréal Professionnel Colour ID Artist,

winning the The It List Rising Star 2018 Award cemented his name as a needto-know

colourist.

“The It List is one of the coolest awards in the industry,” Jordan says.

“It acknowledges individuals for their work and is at the forefront of the

freshest hairdressing. It was such an honour to be recognised alongside the

best of the best! Who wouldn’t want to be a part of it?”

When thinking back over the process, he struggles to put the experience

into words. “Thrilling, nerve-wracking, intoxicating,” he says. “It gives you a

goal – and when it pays off it’s so rewarding.”

Since clinching the title, work has been flooding in to challenge and

invigorate his creative mind. Jordan’s signature Hockney-style hair

painting has led to him being in high demand for events and education,

even achieving a dream of his and leading a creative colour course with

L’Oréal Professionnel. His course focused on treating hair as a canvas

for painting, working with wefts and abstract colour placements.

“Working with L’Oréal Professionnel as a guest artist is a dream come

true and gives me a great platform to showcase my work. I’ve had the

opportunity to work alongside some of my hair idols,” he recalls.

He noted a real shift after his win, too, he felt that a spotlight of

awareness had fallen on him. “It was as if people were saying ‘if you

don’t know him, you’d better get to know him,’” he laughs.


54

CREATIVE HEAD


#TheItList

THE ENTREPRENEUR

PHIL BENTON, DOUCE

“IT WAS ALL quite surreal, really. I had never attended an event like that before,

and to walk in and be recognised by those in the industry who have inspired me was

incredible,” Phil Benton recalls of last year’s Grand Final, where he scooped the title of

The It List Entrepreneur 2018 for his retro Airstream concept salon, douce.

Owning his own business by the age of 25 had been a dream of Phil’s, and in douce

he had the perfect vehicle (literally) to bring his dream to fruition. Given his passion for

unique concepts, it was no surprise that a former winner was the one to convince him to

enter the competition: “Ky Wilson popped in for a haircut and drinks after following us

on Instagram, and we just clicked. He explained The Entrepreneur category [which Ky

won in 2016] and that got me incredibly excited about The It List.”

When Phil’s name was read out, Ky was one of the first to leap to his feet and

embrace the newly-crowned champ. One Airstream has become two, and with a rapidly

expanding team to keep up with demand there may well be a douce fleet before long.

“The lifestyle is exciting and our team has grown, along with all of our opportunities

and adventures,” Phil says. “Since picking up the award, I have opened a new, bigger

Airstream salon, which is located in Shoreditch, with three chairs and three new team

members. And I’m on the hunt for more staff…”

A clothing line is on the horizon after a collaboration with jacket brand K-Way, and his

win was even covered by ITV. The quirky branding attracted the attention of business

schools and universities, many of whom have since invited Phil to speak to inspire their

students to think outside the box. But it’s the reaction of his industry and peers that has

had the biggest impact. “The nicest part is that it has made me stand out in the industry

for doing something innovative – and some say inspiring,” Phil says. “Winning the

award gave me such a boost and made me want to push the business even further. The

start of the douce journey has gone beyond what I could have imagined. Creating this

brand and seeing it evolve has made me eternally excited for the future!”

CREATIVE HEAD 55


Sunday Times Style

Marc Jacobs A/W18

Versace A/W17

Mary Katrantzou A/W19

THE FASHIONISTA

MADS-SUNE LUND CHRISTENSEN,

JOSH WOOD COLOUR

Backstage Mary Katrantzou images by Clement Leon Mogensen

ALWAYS COOL UNDER PRESSURE, Josh Wood’s right hand-man Mads-Sune Lund Christensen had

his own catwalk moment at our Grand Final as he took to the stage to accept The It List Fashionista

2018 prize. Shocked into near silence, it took a while for the win to sink in. “The whole competition

was very emotional,” Mads admits. “Having had a couple of busy years travelling doing shows,

campaigns and clients made me realise I hadn’t had the chance to sit and reflect on all the amazing

colour I have had the opportunity to help create. So being able to put it all together and reflect on it

was the best experience.”

Juggling salon clients at Josh Wood Colour with work on campaigns, shoots and the runway work he

undertakes alongside Redken global color creative director Josh is no mean feat. His commitment

to his work and deft touch with colour meant a real buzz about his abilities

formed even before his win. It was the chance to reflect on his work that

tempted Mads into entering. “Creative HEAD offers a generous

platform for contestants’ work and ambitions – I didn’t want to

miss getting that exposure,” he says.

His entry for the competition was very, well, Mads. “I didn’t

try to make it big or fancy, having been lucky enough to have

some really strong images with some of the biggest photographers,

hairstylists and make-up artists. I didn’t want anything to take focus

away from my work. Keeping it simple and strong was what I felt

suited an otherwise very colourful entry.”

Since the awards, his career has gone from strength to strength.

“It has been another crazy year – seeing colour I worked on in three big

advertisements in the US Vogue September issue kicked everything off!”

he recalls, almost immediately followed by the now iconic colour work by Josh

Wood at Marc Jacobs’ S/S19 show, creating vintage pastel perfection.

“We had 37 pastels walking the Marc Jacobs runway – that’s a colour story to be

remembered!” he grins. From the streaks of tie-dye coloured wefts for Mary Katrantzou’s

elemental show to the icy Wednesday Addams plaits at Prada, Mads’ work continued to

help colour the runway for A/W19. And with the 2019 competition now open for entries,

his advice for those considering taking part is short and sweet: “Do it. It’s an amazing

platform to be seen from and gives brilliant opportunity to reflect on all the long hours

and hard work you have put in.”

56


Love

#TheItList

Prep work for Mary Katrantzou A/W19, courtesy of Simon Martin

Marc Jacobs S/S19

Mary Katrantzou A/W19

Mary Katrantzou A/W19

Schiaparelli

57


See more from Paddy

online. Check it out on

creativeheadmag.com/paint

PAINT

58

CREATIVE HEAD


#TheItList

THE IT GUY

PADDY MCDOUGALL,

RAINBOW ROOM INTERNATIONAL

A TWO-TIME FINALIST, Paddy McDougall threw everything he could at

his third attempt to finally claim the title of The It List It Guy 2018. His bold,

honest manifesto about his career caught the judges’ attention, along with

his abundant achievements. The stars aligned and his time had finally come.

“That year I really learnt the difference between finalising and winning! It was

about making sure it reflected me and the message I wanted to get across,”

Paddy recalls. “I have a clear aesthetic in my work and I wanted to bring that

to the entry. I think it was the first time I could actually sit back and say ‘I 100

per cent achieved that’, so that made it good to get the win.”

Already artistic director for Rainbow Room International, a FAME Team

member and a Schwarzkopf Professional Young Artistic Team winner, The

It Guy was the accolade that he was relentlessly chasing after, knowing the

opportunities it would bring. “Creative HEAD is the biggest hair magazine

around, and these awards are the most reputable in the industry,” he explains.

“It made sense to get involved – it still feels crazy to see my name up there

with such illustrious company.”

So, what now? Did the title open up the same opportunities that he had so

hoped for? Well yes, it turns out – and more. “I think even just making The It

List Grand Final on a couple of previous occasions really helped my profile but

winning is a step up again. When you walk into the SportsMax show in Milan

and Duffy’s there congratulating you, you know it’s a big deal.”

Since then, Paddy has continued to thrive backstage, working on Duffy’s

team for shows such as Saint Laurent and Louis Vuitton.

In January he was named the new global ambassador for Indola alongside

existing ambassador Andy Smith, jetting off to Barcelona to shoot the new

Street Style collection, which lands this month. As one of our PAINTERS, he

regularly contributes hot colour trends, techniques and commentary, while

also keeping his scissors sharp at the salon in Glasgow.

For anyone thinking of taking a swing at the awards for 2019, Paddy had one

clear piece of advice. “First, decide what it is that you want to say; what your

message is,” he insists. “Then make sure every aspect of your entry conveys

this. I think that’s the secret to nailing it – sometimes it’s worth taking a step

back from it for a minute just to check.”

Hunger

59


60 CREATIVE HEAD


#TheItList

THE VISIONARY & THE IT GIRL

GRACE DALGLEISH,

BROOKS & BROOKS

UNDOUBTEDLY THE BIGGEST winner of the night was Grace Dalgleish, who was

named both The It List Visionary and The It List It Girl 2018. Visibly shaking and

emotional, Grace blurted out onstage: “I don’t know what to say – I’m blown away!

I need to ring my mum!” At only 23, Grace is a rare talent whose ambition, impeccable

colour work and accomplished platform artistry wowed the judges.

She shines in myriad roles as one of the youngest members of the Brooks & Brooks

Art Team – educating for L’Oréal Professionnel internationally, running her own colour

course and creating the launch image for L’Oréal Professionnel’s Botanēa colour range.

“I’m always looking to push myself and competition work is something I’m passionate

about. Win or lose, you gain from the experience,” Grace explains.

Brooks & Brooks has a strong track record of The It List winners (nine awards and

counting), and this heritage was partly what inspired her to take part: “Seeing my peers

get amazing opportunities is something that definitely inspired me to enter. It was a

great way to reflect on the year; it’s not until you start the process that you realise how

much you’ve done,” she told us. “I enjoyed it from start to finish and had fun with it.

It’s something I’ll keep forever.”

Her entries for the two awards were distinct – a clean, visual journey through her

numerous achievements for The It Girl, and a tour of her character-fuelled Cartoon

Vision colour work for The Visionary. “I wanted to create an entry full of solid content

that represented the big year I’d had,” she explains. “And for Visionary, each model had

huge colour transformations, so I wanted to bring their personality out with colour.”

Cartoon Vision stemmed from one of her street-cast monthly test shoots, where she is

constantly experimenting, building confidence in her colour and shoot work. Since her

winning moment, Grace has had some truly incredible experiences. From presenting

at L’Oréal Professionnel’s Colour Congress with Sally Brooks to educating in Russia

and China, her Insta-Colour course has proved a huge hit. “Being part of the Art Team

means I get to travel a lot and share my passion as an educator.”

Reflecting back on the momentous night last September, she says: “Winning two

awards in one night gave me great exposure and recognition in our industry.” As

she looks to her ever-colourful future, Grace had some wise words to share about her

experience. “Don’t over-think it and remember to have fun. Create something that you

can look back at and be super-proud of – then if you win, that’s a bonus.”

CREATIVE HEAD

THINK YOU SHOULD BE ON THE IT LIST?

Visit creativeheadmag.com/theitlist now to top tips

and download your entry form. Deadline is 20 May!

61


62

CREATIVE HEAD


IT AIN’T

NECESSARILY SO

THE SWH ART TEAM FROM BRIGHTON’S SIMON WEBSTER HAIR CATAPULTS US BACK

TO EVELYN WAUGH’S ROARING TWENTIES WITH BRIGHT YOUNG THINGS, A BOLD

STATEMENT IN CLASSIC FINISHES ROUNDED OUT WITH BITING MODERNITY

PHOTOGRAPHY BY KENNY MCCRACKEN

CREATIVE HEAD 63


64

CREATIVE HEAD


CREATIVE HEAD 65

HAIR SWH Art Team, Simon Webster Hair, Brighton. CONCEPT AND ART DIRECTION Simon Webster.

COLOUR AND PRODUCTS Goldwell and KMS. MAKE-UP Xoë Kingsley.


In

bloom

ANNE VECK LETS HER AVANT-GARDE STYLING EXPERTISE BLOSSOM

IN MIRROR MAZE, A COLLABORATION WITH MAGIC OWEN

66

CREATIVE HEAD


Gown by Mishi May (@mishi.may)

PHOTOGRAPHY BY MAGIC OWEN

CREATIVE HEAD 67


THIS PAGE: dress by Courtney Plumb (@courtneyplumbdesign), choker by Kerris Spencer (@kerrisspencer), tights by

Pretty Polly (@prettypollylegs), shoes by Ajvani (@ajvanishoes). OPPOSITE PAGE: jacket and dress by Courtney Plumb

68

CREATIVE HEAD


HAIR Anne Veck (@annevecksalons). PHOTOGRAPHY AND RETOUCHING Magic Owen (@magicowenphotography). STYLING Sue Fyfe-Williams

(@stylistsfw). MAKE-UP Coco Hirani (@coco.hirani) using @maccosmetics and @bobbibrown, assisted by Naomi Lake (@naomilakemua). MODELS Talli

Lindsey at Ciel Model Management (@talli_lyndsey) and Alissa Polanski at Model Union (@greenfairy222). Giant poppies: Tissue Blossoms (@tissue_blossoms)

CREATIVE HEAD 69


Scene

THE HOTTEST EVENTS EVERY MONTH – GET YOURSELF SCENE!

Great

SCOTS

NOW IN ITS 19th year, the Charlie Miller Achievement

Awards are a celebration of the 110 staff working across the

five-strong Edinburgh salon group. This year they were held

at the Kimpton Hotel in the city’s Charlotte Square and

hosted by radio and TV presenter Grant Stott. The event

saw founders Charlie and Janet Miller also welcome guests

from Kérastase, L’Oréal Professionnel and distributor We

Are Hair & Beauty. With an astonishing 25 individual awards

presented on the night, there was a lot for joint managing

directors, Jason and Joshua Miller to get through, along with

artistic director India Miller. Men’s Stylist of the Year was won

by Neil Purves, while the Grand Prix award for Outstanding

Hairdresser of the Year was presented to a delighted Rosslyn

Orr, salon manager at the South St Andrew Street salon, who

also scooped Head Technician of the Year.

Jason Miller, Rosslyn Orr

and Joshua Miller

Neil Purves (left)

70

CREATIVE HEAD


Raise the

CURTAIN

2019 MARKS A pretty monumental year for grooming

brand American Crew as it celebrates its 25th birthday, so

the excitement was turned up to 11 at the UK and Ireland

final of the All Star Challenge. The barbers crowned national

winners would stand a chance of making it to the global final

in New York in May, guaranteed to be one heck of a party!

Guests piled into private members’ club The Curtain in

Shoreditch to celebrate all the finalists and hear from UK and

Ireland general manager Lisa Jackson on the high standard

in this year’s 200-plus entries. With judges including

barbers Ian Harrold and Alan Beak, and grooming guru Lee

Kynaston, the pressure was on to deliver. But deliver they

did – for the UK, Gemma Willock-Smith from Frequency

Barber in Glasgow won the top spot, with Jacks of London’s

Kieran Evans the runner-up. For Ireland, it was the second

consecutive year that ST4Men’s Chris O’Riordan took top

honours, with Barry Kieran from Signature Hair the runnerup.

Let’s hope it will be a New York state of mind for both

winners next month…

Gemma Willock-Smith, Lisa

Jackson and Kieran Evans

CREATIVE HEAD 71


Hair by Rachel Valentine and Lloyd Court

Hair by Lucie Monbillard

and Skyler Hanna

Future

FETISH

IT WAS A throwback to the ’80s for seanhanna’s Retro Future-themed

annual awards show. From wool-infused braids to Tetris stencilling,

directors Skyler Hanna, Yesmin O’Brien, Lucie Monbillard, Lloyd Court

and senior educator Rachel Valentine lit up the stage with bold creations,

focusing on texture and colour. Colour specialist and creative director

Skyler Hanna said at the event: “The ’80s was all about big volume

and texture. I wanted to bring a new age of hair into the show and use

geometric shapes to create iconic haircuts.” After the show it was on to the

awards, celebrating the group’s collective hard work and achievements

from throughout the year. Ilker Nalkiran from Canary Wharf scooped

Creative Image Mens, Avant Garde and Style, while Kirsty Jones from

Worcester Park won Creative Image Colour. Congratulations to Wimbledon,

which was named as the seanhanna Salon of the Year.

Tomm Bucknell, general manager of

seanhanna Putney; Skyler Hanna

and Sean Hanna

72

CREATIVE HEAD


CREATIVE HEAD VIDEO

MADE BY US… ESPECIALLY FOR YOU

PRESS

PLAY>

TOP HAIR ARTISTS

FROM AROUND THE WORLD

On set and in action

CREATIVE HEAD EVENTS

Most Wanted & The It List Awards…

Featured Artist LIVE… Salon Smart…

The Coterie: In Session…

NEW TRENDS, NEW IDEAS

Expertly created, beautifully filmed

and ready to watch

Waiting for you now at:

CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM/TV


One of my VIP clients…

Cheeky haircut from fellow photographer

@DesmondMurray on the @wellahairuk

#TrendVision Create Your Look tour

Ooh! Pkai Hair images on the

new inspirational lightboxes at

the Wella studio!

Team training! This month,

cutting techniques

In the

frame

Kai Wan (@kaiwan17),

founder of Pkai Hair and

photographer, snaps away

Family trip to the National

Track Championships in

Manchester

SHOOT AND SEND Want to give us

a snapshot of your world? Tweet

us at @creativeheadmag now!

Wow! A six-page feature

in @practicalphotography

magazine!

Switching off – skiing

with the family

Mentoring the #ProjectX

team – presentation skills with

Edward Hemmings

A close-up shot I took

at the recent Create Your

Look tour

Editorial shoot for our local

magazine Gravitas – I did

the hair and shot the cover!

74

CREATIVE HEAD


Hair: Organic Colour Systems Salon Mentors; Michel Koller, Stefanie Kaufman, Tracey Burnap

Make-up: Tara Sanger

Photography: Magdalena Bieth

Creative Direction: Karine Jackson

www.organiccoloursystems.com

To find out how to become an Organic Colour Systems stockist contact:

e healthierhair@organiccoloursystems.com | t 01590 646462

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