Welsh Country - Nov Dec 2018

Market Dates
not to miss
Aberystwyth Farmers’ Market
North Parade
3rd & 17th November
1st, 15th (Christmas Market)
and 22nd December
from 10.00am – 2.00pm
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Cowbridge Farmers’ Market
Market Arthur John’s Car Park
3rd and 17th November &
1st, 15th and 23rd December
from 9.00am -12.30pm
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Lampeter Peoples’ Market
Victoria Hall, Lampeter
10th and 24th November &
8th and 22nd December
from 10.00am – 1.00pm
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Myddfai Farmers’ Market
Myddfai Community Hall
28th November &
19th December
from 9.00am – 1pm
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Penarth Farmers’ Market
West Bourne School
24th November &
22nd December
from 9.00am -12.30-pm
kitchen
‘When Winter first begins to bite and stone cracks in the
frosty night, when wind doth howl and trees are bare, ’tis
evil in the Wild to fare’.
Well, I’m not sure I agree totally with Bilbo Baggins.
Those early morning frosts as you walk are a signal that my
favourite time of year is here; speaking as a chef, of course!
It is true that the early frosts have put pay to much of the
foraging, particularly mushrooms, but it heralds the start of
the game season proper, which by now is in full swing, with
partridge, woodcock (my fave!!) snipe, pheasant, wild duck
et.al. All competing for our attention, not to mention venison
and other furred game. All the hard work gathering and
foraging in Autumn pays off, with pickles, cordials and jellies
to accompany your game. I like to cook game quite simply; it
should ‘fly through a scorching hot oven’ and rest for as long
as possible, remaining pink and juicy. Seal your partridge
in hot oil/butter and roast at 200 o C for 10 - 12 minutes,
depending on size, then rest for an equivalent time, while
making a gravy with sherry, bayleaf and game stock (thank
you chef Paul Heathcote). For a pheasant breast, 30 seconds
(yes) each side in foaming butter. Lightly sprinkle with curry
spices, and 2 - 3 minutes in a hot oven with some slices of
apple. Take out and keep warm, while adding a wineglass of
game stock, a drop of cream and reduce the juices to coat the
breasts. Flame with a little Applejack if you can find it, too, for
an amazing flavour.
While many cooks bemoan the loss of the Summer
vegetables, I delight in the riches of slow-braised and sauced
Winter vegetables, Celeriac in mustard sauce, braised fennel,
Jerusalem artichokes and brassicas of all kind are now at
their peak. What’s not to love about aromatic red cabbage,
or sprouts fried with chestnut and bacon. Root vegetables
are sweet and delicious too, the first frost kick-starting the
conversion of starches to sugars, as any old wife will tell you.
Spuds too! Pick a nice floury variety, such as King Edward,
then boil, mash (with plenty of Welsh butter and a little milk),
roast or braise away.
As the waters around our shores cool, so the quality of our
fish improves, as the flesh firms up in the cold. Beef, lamb and
particularly pork are of top quality, too. We no longer have
to slaughter all livestock in November due to lack of Winter
fodder so there will be a steady supply.
‘Christmas is coming, the geese are getting fat’ and so are
turkeys for our festive table. So on that note, may I take the
opportunity to wish you all health and happiness for the festive
season. Nadolin Llawen ac Blwyddyn Newydd Dda i bawb.
Happy Eating!
Gareth
Still hot
from the
Gareth Johns is chef at
The Wynnstay Hotel, Machynlleth, Powys
Picture: Charles Dark
30
www.welshcountry.co.uk