Edible San Diego E Edition Issue #53 Special Issue May 2019

Explore the flavors of San Diego County 

NO. 53 • SPECIAL ISSUE • MAY 2019 

EDIBLESANDIEGO.COM 

MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES 

ROOTED 

IN 

FLAVOR

2 ediblesandiego.com

Rooted in Flavor • Special Issue 

CONTENTS 

Issue 53 

IN THIS ISSUE 

DEPARTMENTS 

4 Publisher’s Note 

LIVING LOCAL 

6 Hot Dish, Liquid Assets, Let’s Grow 

EATING WELL 

9 Five Ways to Eat a Cactus 

GROWING GOOD 

12 Finfish Farming: Envisioning 

Aquaculture in San Diego 

STAYCATION 

26 Finding Bliss in Tecate 

LOCAL ATTRACTIONS 

28 Check This Out, Events, In Season 

31 Farmers’ Markets 

PREP 

32 Cóctel de Frutas: How to Make a 

Mexican Fruit Cocktail 

DIGITAL LINEUP 

Find more regional recipes 

and cross-border content on 

ediblesandiego.com this May 

and June. 

Vegan-Friendly Mexican 

Street Food 

Dining Out in Barrio Logan 

The History of the Michelada 

A Guide to Eating and Drinking 

in Valle de Guadalupe 

Craft Breweries to Try Now 

in Tijuana 

The Ultimate Guide to Ordering 

Street Tacos 

Eating Chiles for Health 

All About Heirloom Corn 

Weekend Escape to Tecate 

The Story of Kahlúa 

FEATURES 

Tres Generaciones 

Three Generations 

PAGE 15 

Somos Diversos 

We Are Diverse 

PAGE 16 

A Modern Infusion of 

Indigenous Ingredients 

PAGE 18 

Cena con Mi Familia 

Dinner with My Family 

PAGE 21 

ON THE COVER: The marlin tlacoyos at Los 

Compas are a twist on a pre-Hispanic 

specialty made with heritage corn and 

topped with marlin, avocado, and pickled 

white peppers. Read more on page 18. 

Modern Rituals and Traditional 

Mexican Wellness Practices 

Ten Essential Mexican 

Cooking Tools 

The Bonita Museum Displays 

Cali-Mex Agricultural Heritage 

How to Make Flour and Corn 

Tortillas at Home 

Destination Dining: A Master 

Gardener in the Kitchen at 

Corazón de Tierra 

Fausto Polanco Furniture in 

Rosarito, Mexico merges rich 

traditions of the past with 

modern influences of today. 

faustopolanco.com.mx 

OLIVIA HAYO 


SPECIAL ISSUE • MAY 2019 | edible SAN DIEGO 3

PUBLISHER’S NOTE | 

Nava family 

summer in 

Weldon, CA, 

circa 1972. 

Table Talk 

I 

f we are what we eat, then we are so many things. For just 

a moment, think back to when you were young: What did 

you eat, and who prepared it for you? Go back one or two 

generations more and consider what culinary traditions shaped 

your life today. 

My ancestors made their way from England, Scotland, 

France, and Spain to the US and Mexico generations ago, and 

fast-forward, I am a mid-century Girl Scout who learned my 

way around the kitchen by helping my mom from an early age. 

She passed on the essential life skills, like showing me how many 

different things you can put in a tortilla for an after-school snack. 

Growing up as part of a very large extended family, I looked 

forward to every holiday because something fun was always in 

the works—sleepovers, camping, and big Christmas potlucks. 

Nowadays, plant-strong or low-carb options may sit alongside the 

holiday tamales, but we make sure one cousin brings the Jell-O 

salad. One bite brings back memories of beloved aunties and 

uncles since passed and the countless adventures, sunsets, milestones, 

and hugs we shared. 

Year by year, my childhood saw a formerly rural area become 

suburbanized. Our little orchard and garden became like an 

island as dairy farms and citrus orchards gave way all around us. 

As the summer heat rose each year, my friends, siblings, and I 

would climb apricot and plum trees, eating our fill, while my 

mom would stay up late to make jam when the house was cool 

and quiet. Those jars glimmered like jewels all year long in our 

hall closet—special gifts to be given with uncomparable flavor on 

breakfast toast. 

We invite you to reminisce about your own food memories, 

and to make some new ones. Since we celebrate authenticity, 

Edible San Diego dedicates this special issue, Rooted in Flavor, to 

the culinary traditions unique to our part of the world. Because a 

plate of food can reveal so much about our shared past, present, 

and future. 

To add more spice, convenience, and aha moments to your 

days and nights, make sure to visit ediblesandiego.com and subscribe 

to our monthly newsletter and social media platforms. If 

you enjoy our work, please patronize our advertisers’ businesses, 

subscribe, and invite your friends to join our rapidly growing 

Edible San Diego community—all of which enables us to keep 

these essential conversations happening. Thank you. 

Katie Stokes 

Publisher, Edible San Diego 


edible Communities 

2011 James Beard Foundation 

Publication of the Year 

MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES 

EDITORIAL 

Katie Stokes 

Editor in Chief 

Maria Hesse 

Managing Editor 

Felicia Campbell 

Executive Digital Editor 

Olivia Hayo 

Associate Editor 

Dawn Mobley 

Copy Editor 

Dee Gomez 

Editorial Intern 

DESIGN TEAM 

Allie Wist 

Designer 

Olivia Hayo 

Lead Photographer 

PUBLISHER 

Katie Stokes 

SALES & MARKETING 

Cass Husted 

Marketing 

John Vawter 

Advertising Sales 

Scott White 

Advertising Sales 

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LIVING LOCAL | 

Fresh, exciting, 

and vibrant are 

the themes 

of the Creta 

signature pita 

(far left), violeta 

latte (left), and 

the Chicanostyle 

mimosa 

(bottom). 

Hot Dish 

Telefónica Gastro Park 

BY KELLY BONE 

“Food Has No Border” proclaims the billboard rising over the 

sun-dappled dining patio of Tijuana’s Telefónica Gastro Park. 

Wood-slat stairs rise to seats overlooking the plenitude of dining 

options, including many vegetable-heavy dishes and a 100% vegan 

taqueria. Here, local and global flavors hug an onsite brewery 

decorated in fluttering piñatas, and murals scratch at the surface of 

issues like immigration, community, and humanity at large. 

La Taqueria Vegiee 

Chef Antonio Quintero’s La Taqueria Vegiee is beloved on both 

sides of the border (they also have a food truck rooted in South 

Park). The adobada taco highlights the classic flavors of Tijuana 

with the craft of a vegan kitchen. Stuffed with trigo—a chewy 

seitan made with wheat, barley, and rye—marinated in achiote 

paste and thyme, the protein comes folded in a corn tortilla 

with cilantro, chopped onions, and guacamole. 

» facebook.com/lataqueriavegiee 

Creta 

The spirit of the Mediterranean rises in the vegetable-loaded 

Creta. This portobello pita (above) rolls flame-grilled mushrooms 

with cherry tomatoes, paper-thin red onions, fat cuts 

of avocados, and baby greens (hold the basil aioli for a vegan 

option) in a pillowy flatbread. More greens are tossed with 

chopped tomatoes and cucumbers dressed in a briny Kalamata 

olive tapenade and served on the side. 

» facebook.com/cretaft 

Satabu 

Colorful vegetables laze across a flour tortilla in the hongos 

mixtos tacos at Satabu. Roasted mushrooms and juicy poblano 

peppers come threaded with fideos de arroz (rice noodles), pinto 

beans, and bits of corn under pickled purple cabbage, cilantro, 

and guacamole. A self-administered splash of salsa will blend 

the flavors together perfectly. Cash only. 

» facebook.com/satabutj 

Telefónica Gastro Park 

Boulevard Aguacaliente #8924 

Tijuana, Baja California 22000 

» facebook.com/TelefonicaGastroPark 

KELLY BONE; ERIN JACKSON (2) 


Liquid Assets 

BY ERIN JACKSON 

Three ways to satiate your thirst with modern 

Mexican beverages in Barrio Logan 

Where the chefs shop. 

Open to the public everyday 8-5 pm. 

Border X Brewing 

Any of the brewery’s beers can be michelada-fied with a splash of La 

Diabla mix, but the Pepino Sour, a Berliner Weisse with lime and 

cucumber, serves as the ultimate pelo del perro (hair of the dog). 

» borderxbrewing.com 

Por Vida 

Unique drinks like violeta latte, spicy mango lemonade, and 

horchata cold brew are offered at this neighborhood coffee shop 

and art gallery. But the mazapan latte, served hot or cold with 

De La Rosa mazapan crumbles, is a standout. 

» porvidacollective.com 

Barrio Dogg 

The Chicano-style mimosa features a mini bottle of Mexican bubbly 

upended in tropical punch with key lime juice and chamoy. A 

Tajín rim adds a salty, spicy bite that boosts the fruity flavors. 

» barriodogg.com 

Let’s Grow 

El Chayote 

Poderoso 

BY JESSICA GONZALEZ 

Native to Latin America, specifically Mexico and Guatemala, 

chayote was a staple in the Aztec diet for centuries. San Diego’s 

proximity often affords us a similar climate, providing a spectacular 

opportunity to grow one of Mexico’s prized culinary gifts. 

This tropical squash is a perennial favorite and gardener’s dream 

as it produces year after year. Likened to dense cucumbers, chayotes 

can be consumed raw or cooked. Thinly sliced in fresh ceviche, 

added to soups, or pickled atop carnitas tacos, chayotes deliver an 

exceptionally versatile harvest. 

Chayotes are opportunists: The hearty vines are enthusiastic 

climbers, so placement is key. Select an organic chayote from your 

local farmers’ market and rest it, stem end up, on organic garden 

soil in full sun. Within a few weeks your chayote will sprout 

(think sprouting potatoes) and begin unfurling small vines. Once 

the vines are five to six inches long, pop the chayote directly in the 

ground, ensuring the vines are exposed. This rapid grower wants 

organic compost, nitrogen, and a layer of mulch. Water your plant 

when the soil is dry to the touch, adding diluted fish emulsion 

every two to three weeks. Harvest chayote when they are four to 

six inches long. They keep well refrigerated for up to a month. 


Fabulous 

HILLCREST 

FARMERS 

MARKET 

Sundays 

9AM-2PM 

HILLCRESTFARMERSMARKET.COM 


| EATING WELL 

Low in fat, high in fiber 

and antioxidants, tart 

and crisp nopales grow 

abundantly throughout 

our region. 

Five Ways to Eat a Cactus 

BY FELICIA CAMPBELL 

T 

he most commonly eaten cactus is the prickly pear or Opuntia. 

In Mexico, the pads or nopales are called lengua de vaca— 

“cow's tongue”—and in Sicily, the fruit or tuna is referred to as fico 

d'India, or “Indian fig.” Both the fruit and the pads can be eaten 

cooked or raw and are a great source of fiber and antioxidants, but 

they do require a little prep before getting started. 

Nopales have a bright, vegetal flavor, like an amped-up stalk 

of asparagus. Select paddles that are green and plump. Smaller, 

thinner young paddles are more tender. While most store-bought 

pads will already have their sharp spines removed, you’ll still want 

to wash the pad. Hold it at an angle to slice off any remaining 

spines and cut out the eyes where the spines were attached. Trim 

off the outer quarter-inch of the pad and the thick base and the 

nopales are ready to cook. 

The tuna fruits are a great addition to any fruit-based dish or 

salad, with a taste that’s somewhere between watermelon and 

bubble gum. To prepare them, slice off both ends and make one 

vertical cut down the body of the pear. Slip your fingers into the 

slit and grab the skin. Peel off the thick outer skin and discard. The 

flesh is filled with tiny seeds, which are completely edible. Chop 

and toss with orange slices and mint for a simple fruit salad. 

Now that your nopales and tuna are ready to go, here are five 

ways to cook with them. 

Grilled Nopales 

Preheat a grill to medium and brush the pads with olive oil 

and a hearty sprinkle of salt and pepper. Grill them over medium 

to medium-high heat until golden, about 3 minutes on each side. 

Grilled nopales can be cut into strips and added to tacos 

or left whole and used as a base for tostada toppings like salty 

cheese, refried beans, or stewed meat. 

Blanched Nopales 

Add cleaned nopal paddles, whole or sliced, to cold water in 

a pan. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer. As the cactus 

cooks, it turns a darker green and releases a sticky liquid similar 


EATING WELL | 

to your muffin or cupcake batter, or use the juice to add a complex 

layer of flavor to your lemon bars. 

Nopal Tortillas 

Soften 4–5 cactus pads in boiling water with a pinch of salt and 

½ teaspoon baking soda for 5 to 10 minutes. Process the pads 

with a few sprigs of cilantro in a blender or food processor until 

smooth. Add about 4 ½ cups masa harina to a large mixing bowl 

and slowly add pureed nopales and warm water in batches, mixing 

as you go, until the dough is the consistency of soft cookie dough. 

Mix in 1 teaspoon of salt. Separate the dough into 16 small balls 

and refrigerate for 10 minutes to an hour. When ready to cook, 

flatten each ball between two sheets of wax paper with a rolling pin 

until they are about ⅛ inch thick. Cook on a skillet or comal over 

medium-high heat for 1 to 2 minutes per side or until they puff. 

Enjoy in place of traditional corn or flour tortillas. 

to okra; skim this juice and discard while the nopales simmer. 

Continue cooking until the cactus is al dente, about 10 minutes. 

Rinse to remove any remaining liquid and pat dry. 

To make a simple salad, toss blanched nopales with tomato, 

onion, cilantro, and ranchero cheese with lime and salt to 

taste. You can also add the blanched nopales to casseroles or 

scrambles along with diced chiles to add a hearty texture to a 

meatless dish. 

Juiced Prickly Pear 

To extract the juice of the prickly pear fruit, place peeled 

fruit into a blender or food processor and pulse until liquefied. 

Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a pitcher or bowl and discard 

remaining pulp and seeds. Six to 12 tunas will yield about 

one cup of juice. 

Add the juice to fresh lemonade, add an ounce to your margarita, 

or simply combine equal parts seltzer water and juice for 

a refreshing spritz. 

Baked Prickly Pear 

Swap peaches for prickly pear in a simple cobbler, dice and add 

HUNGRY FOR MORE? 

We publish new seasonal 

recipes every week. Get inspired 

at ediblesandiego.com. 

Prickly Pear Soda with Tajín 

and Mint 

By Olivia Hayo 

Chili-Lime Avocado Salad 


Grilled Elote: Mexican-Style 

Corn 

By Felicia Campbell 

Vegan Cajun-Spiced 

Cauliflower Chickpea Tacos 

By Alexa Soto 

From the left: Vegan 

Cajun-Spiced Cauliflower 

Chickpea Tacos and 

Charred Corn and Grilled 

Stone Fruit Salad. 

Charred Corn and Grilled 

Stone Fruit Salad 


Grilled Green Tomato 

Panzanella Salad 


Watermelon, Feta, and 

Tomato Salad 


Agua Frescas: Tasty Mocktails 

By Miguel Valdez 

Three-Step San Diego-Style 

Campechana 

By Mitch Conniff 

OLIVIA HAYO, ALEXA SOTO 


LEARN ABOUT 

LOCALLY MADE COFFEE, 

CIDER, WINE, TEA, 

AND MORE 

SDBEVTIMES.COM 

@SDBEVTIMES 


GROWING GOOD | 

Finfish Farming 

Envisioning Aquaculture 

in San Diego 

BY ELAINE MASTERS 

A 

bout three miles offshore, a fishing boat tethers to a large 

circular ring bobbing on the surface—a fish pen swaying in 

a current and moored to the ocean floor nearly 300 feet below. 

Inside the carefully structured net, thousands of yellowtail flash as 

they move up and down the water column. The pen casts a shadow 

where wild fish cluster and claim shelter, while others shuttle 

beneath looking for food. 

This is the vision Don Kent, CEO of Hubbs-SeaWorld Research 

Institute (HSWRI), shares with other scientists, the Port of San 

Diego, and the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration 

(NOAA). While local shellfish farms have been successfully 

established for years, open ocean finfish pens in federal waters along 

San Diego’s coast would be a first for the nation. 

Eating fish is generally considered a healthy, environmentally 

positive option and aquaculture could make the benefits more accessible 

and affordable. The scientists at Sustainable Fisheries point 

out that “the more seafood that is eaten in place of cow, the better, 

since [industrial] bovine farming is the largest driver of rainforest and 

biodiversity loss on the planet.” 

Aquaculture, the practice of growing water based species, has been 

going on for millennia. The Chinese farmed freshwater fish a thousand 

years ago and people in the Mediterranean raised carp as far 

back as the Middle Ages. Much later, in 1851, the state of California 

began regulating fisheries. By 1970 the Aquaculture Development 

Act declared that “it’s in the interest of the people that the practice 

of aquaculture be encouraged in order to augment food supplies, 

expand employment, promote economic activity, increase native fish 

stocks…and better use the land and water resources of the state.” 

California aquaculture has been in process ever since, along with 

growing pains and well-documented aquaculture fails outside of 

California that have left deep impressions, concerns, and mistrust. 

In 2018, a marine salmon farm in the Pacific Northwest failed, 

allowing over 300,000 Atlantic salmon to escape into Puget Sound. 

There’s little evidence that many survived, and whether they’ll 

compete with wild salmon has yet to be determined. 

The yellowtail that HSWRI is proposing for pens are a local 

species that is mostly caught in Mexico. San Diego waters, on the 

northern end of their habitat, are just warm enough to potentially 

make farming them sustainable. 

Issues and opportunities 

Pen density is one environmental issue that local aquaculture 

must manage. Elsewhere around the world, packed cages have 

increased the risk and transmission of disease. Kent and fellow 

HSWRI scientist Mark Drawbridge have been refining aquaculture 

best practices to keep pen populations low and yield 

healthier fish. Since 1982, HSWRI has worked with the state’s 

Ocean Resources Enhancement and Hatchery Program to grow 

and release white sea bass spawned and raised at their Carlsbad 

hatchery for both sport and commercial fishermen to harvest. 

Meanwhile, HSWRI has been exporting technical knowledge 

as well as hatchlings across borders to operations like Pacifico 

Aquaculture, a striped bass farm in northern Baja California. 

“Our investment in research is used across the border and then 

we buy the product back,” notes Kent. 

Striped sea bass came to Northern California by train for the 

World Expo in the 1920s and were later released into the San 

Francisco Bay. In Southern California, the fast growing striped 

bass flourish in the Pacifico pens but can’t spawn successfully 

outside of their freshwater hatchery. 

Pacifico founder Omar Alfi and partner Daniel Farag both 

graduated from USC with degrees in business and private 

equity. Alfi felt that they “weren’t making anything tangible 

or impacting the world” before looking at food spaces and the 

growing global need for more protein. When they took over an 

existing northern Baja aquaculture facility that was in bankruptcy, 

they quickly realized that success was dependent on a 

closed system. Today, their fish pens float above an offshore 

submarine canyon. The health of the fishery is validated by the 

nearly 200 diverse employees and weekly water and ocean floor 

tests conducted by Mexican regulatory agencies. 

Some environmental concerns with aquaculture are more 

verifiable than others. A Coastkeeper report warns of “elevated 

levels of antibiotic residues, antibiotic resistant bacteria… and 

viruses in aquaculture raised finfish and shellfish.” Kent asserts 

such reports are unreliable since regulations require that chemical 

treatments can only be made with the consent of a veterinarian, 

and only chemicals that are not retained in the fish flesh are used. 

Problems with fish deformities, genetic integrity, and 

ERIC WOLFINGER PHOTOGRAPHY 


| GROWING GOOD 

euthanasia have also been reported. Although, aside from 

euthanasia, these harsh realities occur in the natural world 

and inform the practices of raising healthy farmed fish. 

Much has been learned and remedied in US waters and 

local operations could continue to make improvements with 

easier oversight, while reducing the carbon footprint by 

harvesting closer to market. 

Feed accounts for 50% of operation costs, and its 

ingredients are another sensitive topic for consideration. 

HSWRI is interested in a fish-based diet made from byproducts, 

or fish cuttings that are currently considered waste. 

This feed would reduce impacts on wild-caught fish and 

keep protein out of landfills. Overfeeding or feed waste is 

not a problem for aquaculture companies like Pacifico where 

employees watch a video monitor as fish pellets drop into 

the pens. When the fish stop feeding, they turn off the food, 

which minimizes waste on the ocean floor. 

Most wild fish harvests are reaching maximum 

sustainable yield 

In US waters, fish stocks are managed carefully on many 

levels. However, imported seafood, whether wild or farmed, 

is not subject to the same verifications, restrictions, size and 

capture limits, humane labor conditions, and water monitoring 

regulations. Kent says, “If we farm it ourselves, we’ll set 

our own standards.” We’ll know what we’re getting. 

Fish farming could help address the confusion over labeling 

or fish fraud: For example, LoveTheWild, a packaged farmedfish 

product endorsed by the Leonardo DiCaprio Foundation 

uses labeling that reveals where the fish was harvested. Kent 

envisions a QR code system at fish counters that would disclose 

when, where, and by whom the fish was harvested. 

Fishing jobs and the independent fisherman 

Commercial and sport fishermen aren’t convinced that US 

aquaculture development is in their best interest and demand 

a place in the discussions at national and state levels. What 

impact fish farming will have remains to be seen but there is evidence 

that aquaculture pens can be fishery enhancement tools. 

Pablo Sanchez-Jerez from the University of Alicante reported 

at the Offshore Mariculture Conference in 2010 that 

“the effect of attraction seems to be higher around farms than 

around traditional FADs (Fish Aggregating Devices)…with 

up to 2,800 times more wild fish in their immediate vicinity 

compared to areas without farms.” 

Drawbridge agrees, citing a study at their Catalina fish farm 

that found “pens are aggregating devices where fish seek shelter 

and create a thriving ecosystem, one that fishermen could use.” 

Aquaculture creates fishing jobs, as Pacifico has shown, but 

some fishermen prefer independence —though aquaculture 

might also provide stability for those in the ever-shifting 

industry. Kent says, “I know guys that leave from San Diego 

and go all the way up to Oregon to fish for tuna, and they’re 

tired of it. They’d like to make a living for their families here. 

We need the boats. We need the labor. The 75 jobs on the 

farms themselves aren’t guys in white lab coats. It’s going 

to be guys that know how to work in rough water handling 

product. We’ll create another 200 jobs upstream and down, 

directly and indirectly. That’s 300 jobs from less than onethird 

of a square kilometer of surface area in the open sea.” 

The farmed species could also supplement wild landings, and 

it’s possible that wild-caught seafood would continue its trend 

towards greater value. 

Aquaculture: Net gain or net loss? 

Could aquaculture devastate the US fishing industry? Noah 

Oppenheim, executive director of the Pacific Coast Fisherman, 

claims that “this emerging industrial practice is incompatible 

with sustainable commercial fish practices embraced by our 

nation for generations.” The sentiment was supported by over a 

hundred organizations in reaction to proposals easing aquaculture 

permitting in Congress. Others are looking for one agency 

to provide oversight of projects. 

Hallie Templeton of Friends of the Earth, a non-governmental 

agency (NGO) has attended NOAA public comment panels 

around the country and also worries that pushing for corporate 

profits will come at the expense of the environment and 

fishermen’s livelihoods. Currently, less than 10% of the seafood 


GROWING GOOD | 

consumed in our country is landed by US fishermen, so fishing 

jobs have already been lost to other countries. 

With increasing protein sources as a goal, other NGOs recommend 

land-based fish pens, but to date operation costs make the 

fish too expensive to compete in the marketplace. The abundance 

of water necessary to operate is an issue and more than one 

land-based seafood operation went under when oxygen levels, 

overheating, or water quality issues decimated their stock. 

Much has been made of the fact that only big players are 

involved in the game. The pro-aquaculture lobby Stronger 

America Through Seafood (SATS) has members in every part 

of the industry. Their mission is to increase the “US production 

of healthful, sustainable, and affordable seafood.” In truth, only 

large, well-funded endeavors have a chance to build and operate 

fish farms big enough to be commercially viable. 

San Diego finfish aquaculture remains a possibility 

The United Nations notes that about 8.6 billion people will 

call earth home by 2030, indicating a great need for future 

sources of protein—and aquaculture could be part of the 

solution. The US has the opportunity to create new sources 

for seafood or cheap imports will continue to dominate and 

further decimate wild fish stocks. Our domestic fishing industry 

struggles to compete. 

The Port of San Diego is developing Blue Tech incubators to 

promote aquaculture that is environmentally and economically 

sound. They offer planning tools, look at spatial concerns, and 

help to identify opportunities. Port program manager Paula 

Sylvia helps locate finfish sites around San Diego, juggling 

regulations that exist in federal and state waters with multiple 

agencies such as the Environmental Protection Agency and the 

Coastal Zone Management Act and interfacing with NOAA and 

the National Ocean Service Centers of Coastal Sciences. 

HSWRI and its partners have invested significant resources 

and time searching for viable aquaculture sites near San Diego. 

The pens need to be in water shallow enough with acceptable 

currents to tether to the ocean floor. Balancing the interests of 

commercial and sport fishermen, the Navy, NGOs, and recreational 

and environmental groups has been difficult. Once a 

site is agreed upon, the long process of permitting will begin. 

Local finfish aquaculture may be years away, but the vision 

moves towards reality. 


| FEATURE 

Tres Generaciones 

Three Generations 

BY BETH DEMMON 

PHOTOS COURTESY JENNIFER PESQUEIRA, EL INDIO 

El Indio 

3695 India St. 

» elindiosandiego.net 

M 

any generations ago, the Pesqueira family paid 

a flat fee of 50 cents to enter Arizona from 

Sonora, Mexico. 

“Not like it is today,” laughs El Indio president 

Jennifer Pesqueira as she shares the story of how 

her great-grandparents came to the United States. 

The pair moved to Los Angeles, where their family 

continued to grow. One of their children, Ralph 

Pesqueira, eventually became Ralph Pesqueira Sr.— 

and Jennifer’s grandfather and the founder of El 

Indio. 

“My grandfather started El Indio in August of 

1940,” explains Jennifer. “He ran the business up 

until he passed away in 1981, and then my dad 

[Ralph Pesqueira Jr.] took over.” 

Although El Indio has always been in the family, 

Jennifer admits she didn’t expect to end up working 

there. She’s the only one of her generation at the restaurant, 

and even she didn’t officially join the staff 

until after college at San Diego State University. 

Still, some of her earliest memories come straight 

from the kitchen. 

“About the only thing I learned to do was ask the 

people in the kitchen for my little burrito. My dad 

would make me say ‘gracias’ to the whole room, and 

they’d always giggle at me,” she recalls. 

Over the years, El Indio grew to four locations, 

but consolidated back to the original space around 

1994. Even with these shifts, much remained the 

same—especially the recipes brought from Sonora 

by the first Pesqueiras. 

While El Indio is famous for their taquitos and 

their bagged corn tortilla chips at local food retailers, 

they’ve added non-fried items to their menu 

to meet the demands of health-conscious diners. 

Jennifer also mentions recent laws aimed at reducing 

plastic and styrofoam waste as bigger financial 

hurdles for the small business to absorb, but both 

she and her father are confident in their ability to 

roll with the necessary changes. 

After nearly 40 years at the helm, today Ralph Jr. 

enjoys a more relaxed grip on the restaurant. “My 

dad’s kind of retired. He just sort of sits back and 

makes sure I don’t mess up,” chuckles Jennifer. 


FEATURE | 

Somos Diversos 

We Are Diverse 

Sacred Expedition with Captain Gaspar de 

Portolá and his party of soldiers going through 

Goat Canyon in what is the US-Mexico 

border today. Painting by Benjamin Meza 

San Diego-Baja Cuisine Has Been 

Multiethnic for Two Centuries 

BY BARBARA ZARAGOZA 

I 

n 1821, Mexico declared independence from Spain and Alta 

(Upper) California came under the Mexican flag. By then, 

a large community of men and women had come from Baja 

California and Central Mexico during the late 1700s onwards 

and settled in what today constitutes the state of California. 

They forged a fiercely autonomous identity, and not wanting 

to be known as Españoles or Mexicanos, they began calling 

themselves Californios. 

The Californios held prominent political offices in towns 

throughout Alta California. They also raised cattle, as selling 

hides became a lucrative business. Many of the Californios 

traced their ancestors back to 1769, when Gaspar de Portolá 

trekked from Baja California into San Diego with a large party 

of soldiers who were of blended ethnicities precisely because 

Mexico under Spanish colonialism had been such a vast melting 

pot for centuries. The Californios, like those who came 

before them, were of mixed backgrounds, including mestizo, 

Afro-Latino, Spanish, Portuguese, Amerindian, and even Jewish 

heritages. 

The Californios had a distinct way of cooking. William 

Smythe, the first to write a definitive history of San Diego, described 

their food as such: "The Californios naturally survived on 

a diet of mostly meat. Alongside beef, they enjoyed veal, but did 

not eat venison, mutton, or pork. Added to their staple protein 

diet, they made tortillas, tamales, and chili con carne. They ate 

fish on Fridays and their sugared pastries were highly prized." 

PAINTING: BENJAMIN MEZA; PHOTOS: OLIVIA HAYO 


| FEATURE 

After California became part of the United States in 

1850, the Californios began to lose both their political 

influence and their land. Many prominent families from 

Old Town San Diego migrated to the border region 

and their descendants continued living in towns on the 

American side, such as San Ysidro, and owned small 

cattle ranches outside Tijuana. While their prominence 

waned, their cuisine experienced a renaissance thanks to 

a native-born Virginian named Bertha Haffner-Ginger 

who came to Southern California and published the first 

known book of Californios cuisine, appropriately titled 

California Mexican-Spanish Cookbook. 

Her cookbook included recipes for salads, soups, 

tamales, omelets, and beans, among others, and she 

explained the early distinction of Mexican cuisine in her 

introduction: "It is not generally known that Spanish 

dishes as they are known in California are really Mexican 

Indian dishes. Bread made of corn, sauces of chile peppers, 

jerked beef, tortillas, enchiladas, etc., are unknown 

in Spain as native foods; though the majority of Spanish 

people in California are as devoted to peppery dishes 

as the Mexicans themselves, and as the Mexicans speak 

Spanish, the foods are commonly called Spanish dishes." 

Today, the influence of the Californios persists in the 

San Diego-Baja region. Their blend of Mexican, Indian, 

and Spanish foods became part of the border culture, 

with tamales eaten during Christmas and enchiladas 

eaten all year round. In keeping with the multiethnic 

heritage of the Californios, the continued growth of 

diversity in this area also enriches the culinary terrain. 

The Chinese began to settle in Baja California during 

the 1800s and to this day tout their signature shark fin 

soup at many restaurants. Jewish communities in Chula 

Vista, Bonita, and Tijuana remain kosher, refraining 

from pork as has been their tradition for thousands of 

years and mirroring the diet of early pioneers to Alta 

California. The Filipino community has made its mark 

in National City where a bust of Filipino nationalist 

icon Jose Rizal stands in front of Seafood City, a market 

that offers traditional Filipino delights including 

lumpia and pancit. Individuals from these communities 

have sometimes intermarried, their children tracing 

their descendants to ever more diverse heritages. The 

children of Filipino and Mexican parents, for example, 

identify as Mexipino and continue to shape San Diego- 

Baja cuisine through new culinary traditions such as 

adding longaniza sausage to Mexican scrambled eggs 

with chile. 

As everywhere, so too in the border region the adage 

remains true: We eat our culture. Old and new at once, 

these food traditions represent 200 years of the ever-changing 

multiethnic heritage of the San Diego-Baja region. 


FEATURE | 

A Modern 

Infusion 

of Indigenous 

Ingredients 

BY FELICIA CAMPBELL 

Chefs Mario Peralta and Juan Cabrera come from two different 

worlds but were united by a mission to preserve the indigenous ingredients 

of Mexico’s past through seasonal, modern dishes that point to 

an exciting and sustainable future. 

J 

uan Cabrera was born in Mexico City and earned his 

cooking chops at the world-renowned Pujol restaurant in 

the capital, while Mario Peralta, a native of Tijuana, worked up 

north under award-winning chef Javier Plascencia at Misión 19 

and at Fuego Cocina del Valle in Valle de Guadalupe. The pair 

met in 2017 on the second season of Top Chef Mexico. A year 

later, in July 2018, they opened Los Compas in Tijuana. The 

restaurant’s name loosely translates to “buddies” or “compadres,” 

but as they explained, it implies a mission-oriented connection 

closer than friendship. Their bond was forged over a shared passion 

for celebrating traditional Mexican cuisine and elevating 

indigenous ingredients. 

At their small, stylish restaurant, heirloom corn varieties are 

nixtamalized each day and ground for use in everything from 

tortillas to dessert tamales, which retain the corn’s vibrant pink 

and blue hues even after being cooked. Though corn has been 

cultivated in Mexico for over 10,000 years —with an amazing 

diversity of regional variations—this essential ingredient is 

in danger of being lost to a monocrop of industrialized yellow 

corn. According to Rafael Mier, the founder of the Fundación de 

Tortilla Maíz Mexicana, at least 59 varieties of native corn are on 

OLIVIA HAYO 


| FEATURE 

FELICIA CAMPBELL; OLIVIA HAYO; COURTESY LOS COMPAS 

The restaurant has a full bar 

menu of cocktails, wine, and beer 

with plans to offer a selection of 

craft beers made in collaboration 

with local brewers. 

the verge of extinction. The reintroduction of heritage corn varieties 

by innovative restaurateurs and chefs, like Peralta and Cabrera, is a 

vital part of efforts to raise awareness and promote farming of this 

indigenous crop. 

At Los Compas, marlin tlacoyos (pre-Hispanic masa ovals, thicker 

than a tortilla) are made using pink heirloom corn and come topped 

with locally caught marlin, house-pickled güeros chiles, and wedges 

of avocado. Tostadas de ceviche verde (green ceviche tostadas) feature 

a citrus marinated local catch served on crisp tostadas alongside 

smoked cauliflower and draped in a cilantro pesto. 

I 

n addition to their focus on corn, many of the menu items are 

built around seasonal ingredients that reflect the pair’s close 

relationship with local farmers. The romanesco asado dish stars 

grilled romanesco and mustard greens from Wulf Ruiz’s Cengrow 

Organic Farm near Ensenada. The tender, smoky vegetable is 

served over what they describe as a Mayan romesco sauce made 

with roasted onions, chiles, garlic, and toasted sunflower seeds. 

This, and pretty much everything on the menu, benefits from a 

drizzle of earthy housemade hot sauce made from chile de arbol, 

peanuts, garlic, and dried shrimp heads still bobbing in the spiced 

oil and emparting their salty complexity. 

Other dishes take inspiration from international influences 

that have informed the borderland cuisine of Baja Norte. There 

is a prevalence of Chinese food in Mexico thanks to several waves 

of Chinese immigration that began in the late 19th century, and 

Peralta explained that when he was growing up, Chinese was his 

family’s special occasion treat. At Los Compas, such flavors are 

incorporated into the taco Chino (Chinese taco), which features a 

slightly sweet, Chinese-style sausage, a smear of hoisin sauce and 

fresh pickled vegetables served in a silky corn tortilla. Carnitas de 

papada de cerdo (pork jowl with kimchi Mexa) features a luscious 

fried pork jowl served over a bed of finely shaved, house-pickled 

vegetables inspired by the increasingly popular Korean kimchi 

variations served at gastro parks around Tijuana. 

The playful surprises and pitch-perfect execution continue through 

the dessert menu, which features the likes of creamy-as-cheesecake 

guava flan and an inventive pan caramelo cornbread bread pudding 

topped with white chocolate, cornflake praline, and vanilla ice cream. 

Far from a traditional menu, the dishes at Los Compas are a vibrant 

celebration of sophisticated, modern Mexican cuisine that is informed 

by deep heritage and history, without being limited by it. This 

approach makes it one of the most exciting places to taste the terroir 

of the region’s past while experiencing a glimpse of its future. 

Boulevard Agua Caliente 10594, Aviacion, 22014 Tijuana, BC 

» loscompastj.com 

NOTES ON GETTING THERE: You’ll need your passport. The restaurant is 

a 30-minute drive from downtown San Diego and crossing into Mexico is 

simple. Getting back to the city can take longer‚ over an hour during peak 

traffic. Alternatively, park behind H&M at Las Americas Premium Outlets and 

take a 10-minute well-lit walk to the border crossing pedestrian bridge. Use a 

ridesharing app like Uber or Lyft for a 10 to 15 minute drive to the restaurant. 


• Best Italian 

Restaurant 

• Best Chef 

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• Best Wine List 

Local organic produce, 

meat & seafood 

Authentic Italian cuisine 

Food, wine & spirits 

pairing events 

Patio dining 

Dog friendly 

Fresh & Local 

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OPEN TUES 8AM–3PM 

WED-SUN 8AM–5PM 

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2820 Roosevelt Road • Liberty Station, Point Loma • (619) 270-9670 • solarelounge.com 

5202 Lovelock St., San Diego 92110 

619-297-9797 | www.catalinaop.com 

www.leucadiafarmersmarket.com 


| FEATURE 

CENA CON 

BY MARIA HESSE 

I 

f you’ve lived in San Diego long enough, you may have learned that there’s more than tacos at the 

heart of regional Mexican cuisine. Ask around and you’ll hear warm childhood stories depicting a 

mother’s various renditions of sopa de fideo and quesadillas, sometimes served twice a day. Others will say 

it was the first bite of a California burrito that led to a secret guacamole recipe reserved for special occassions. 

In this age of modern conveniences, it’s also about knowing which friends keep a fresh tub of La 

Salsa Chilena and a bag of El Indio tortilla chips regularly stocked. These are the foods and experiences 

we share with our loved ones, embedded deep within our core, a single bite transporting us back, flavors 

manifest memories rich with emotion. Cena con mi familia is Spanish for “dinner with my family.” Here 

we share the memories and recipes of cherished dishes from three Edible San Diego readers, their stories 

represent a broader picture—that love for delicious foods connects us all. 

Edgar Chong (page 24) 

sits in grandmother Irma’s 

lap, along with greatgrandmother 

Antonia, 

great-great-grandmother 

Maria, and other family 

members in Guadalajara 

enjoying tacos. 

PHOTO COURTESY EDGAR CHONG 

MI FAMILIA 


FEATURE | 

or a paper towel. Set aside. 

Peel and roughly dice potatoes 

to 1-inch cubes and boil 

in lightly salted water until 

tender, about 15 to 20 minutes; 

drain potatoes and place 

in a large bowl. 

(Tip: Save the potato water 

for wild yeast sourdough 

bread.) 

Add goat cheese, salt, pepper, 

and cumin to the potatoes 

and mash with a potato 

masher. 

In a separate bowl, whip egg 

whites and cream of tartar 

with an electric hand mixer 

until stiff peaks form, about 4 

to 5 minutes. 

Preheat oven to 350°. 

To prepare peppers, first slice 

one side of the pepper to 

open, making sure to keep the 

stem intact. 

MY FAMILY HAS A HOME IN 

Baja California Sur. When I 

visit, we adventure around 

the area and try different 

restaurants, then I try to 

recreate the dishes I liked 

at home. While dining at 

Cielito Lindo in Cardinal, the 

restaurant owner invited me 

into the kitchen to learn to 

cook my favorite version of 

Chiles Rellenos de Cardinal. 

Chiles Rellenos 

de Cardinal 

SERVES 6 

BASIC RED SAUCE 

3–4 tablespoons olive oil 

1 small onion, diced 

2 cloves garlic, chopped 

¼ cup beer or dry white wine 

SUZE MCCLELLAN 

Ojai and Baja 

1 15.4-ounce can tomato sauce 

1 cup water 

Salt and pepper to taste 

1–2 tablespoons butter 

(optional) 

CHILES RELLENOS 

6 poblano peppers 

3 large potatoes 

10½ ounces goat cheese 

1 teaspoon salt 

1 teaspoon pepper 

1 teaspoon cumin seeds, 

crushed 

5–6 large egg whites 

¼ teaspoon cream of tartar 

1 cup all-purpose flour 

Peanut oil 

¾ cup–1 cup grated cheese 

In a medium frying pan, over 

medium heat, sauté olive oil, 

onion and garlic for 3 to 5 minutes, 

stirring occasionally until 

onions are translucent. Add 

beer or dry white wine and 

bring to a simmer for 30 seconds 

to burn off the alcohol. 

Stir in tomato sauce and water, 

return to a boil; lower heat and 

simmer for about 30 minutes. 

Season to taste and I like to 

add butter to finish the sauce. 

Char peppers by placing them 

over an open flame, dry roasting, 

or broiling them. Turn 

often to blacken skin evenly, 

about 10 minutes. Allow the 

peppers to rest until they are 

cool enough to handle, 3 to 5 

minutes. Place peppers in a 

large plastic bag and seal it to 

sweat off skins, about 10 minutes. 

Most of the charred skin 

should fall off easily, but rub 

off any excess with your hands 

Stuff the pepper with a small 

handful of the potato mixture, 

just enough to fill the inside 

of the pepper. 

Lightly dredge the pepper in 

flour, shaking off excess. With 

your hands, cover the pepper 

with the egg white mixture. 

Repeat with remaining peppers. 

Heat 1” oil in a medium frying 

pan over medium-high heat. 

Carefully place 1 or 2 peppers 

in the oil and fry until you see 

a beautiful golden brown color 

around the edges, about 1 minute; 

gently turn peppers with 

tongs and brown the other side. 

Place on a paper towel-lined 

plate and fry remaining peppers. 

Cover the bottom of an ovenproof 

casserole dish with a bit 

of red sauce. Place peppers 

in casserole dish, cover with 

more red sauce, and top with 

grated cheese. 

Bake in the oven until sauce is 

sizzling and cheese is melted, 

about 25 minutes. 


| FEATURE 

SANDRA BELCHER 

Valley Center 

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: PHOTO COURTESY SANDRA BELCHER (2); THE MARMOT ON FLICKR 

AS A CHILD I LOVED THE 

warm comfort of the Mexican 

bread pudding called 

capirotada. This love came 

before I knew what salty and 

savory meant and before I 

knew cheese and dried fruits 

paired so well. It was sweet and 

a little salty and I loved it. 

As a teen, I finally watched 

my grandma make it and was 

taken aback by everything that 

went into it (and, quite frankly, 

maybe even a little grossed 

out?). She started with a layer 

of tortillas, then added queso, 

nuts, and pieces of crusty 

bolillo soaked in butter or lard 

mixed with brown sugar and 

cinnamon. She threw in some 

raisins and topped everything 

with another layer of tortillas 

to keep it moist —all this and I 

never saw measuring spoons! 

Now, as an adult, it’s comfort 

food—yet it’s also something 

else. Slightly salty from the 

nuts, with sweet cinnamon 

syrup and rich, creamy cheese, 

it’s everything sophisticated. 

Capirotada 

SERVES 8 

3 cups water 

3 cinnamon sticks 

6 whole cloves 

2 cups dark brown sugar 

6 corn tortillas 

4 stale bolillo rolls or French 

bread, sliced into about 20 

slices (for layering) 

6 tablespoons lard or butter, 

divided by tablespoon 

1 cup raisins 

1 cup chopped nuts (almonds 

or your choice) 

1 cup queso Oaxaca or 

Monterey Jack cheese cut 

into small cubes 

½ cup sweetened shredded 

coconut 

(Tip: I buy bolillo bread already 

bagged, sliced, and toasted 

in Mexican markets. But you 

can toast bread if it’s not stale 

enough. You want the bread to 

be hard. Capirotada is typically 

a Lenten food so the bread is 

easily available around Easter.) 

Preheat oven to 350°. 

Make a syrup by bringing 

water, cinnamon sticks, 

cloves, and sugar to a boil in 

a small saucepan over high 

heat. Reduce heat to medium 

and simmer for 10 minutes. 

Remove cinnamon sticks and 

cloves and set syrup aside to 

cool slightly. 

In an 8-inch round pan, rub 2 

tablespoons lard or butter to 

coat the bottom and sides of 

the pan and line with 4 of the 

corn tortillas. 

Dip sliced bread in syrup mixture 

and begin to layer in the 

pan over tortillas, sprinkling 

¹/ ³ each of the lard or butter, 

raisins, nuts, cheese, and 

coconut over the bread. 

Repeat for 2 more layers 

and drizzle with any remaining 

syrup. Top with 2 tortillas 

rubbed with butter to keep 

moist while baking. Bake until 

tortillas on top are crisp and 

capirotada is moist in the 

center, about 30 minutes. 


FEATURE | 

EDGAR CHONG 

Little Italy 

I GREW UP WITH MY 

grandmother in Torreón, 

Coahuila, Mexico, where I had 

the most humble and delicious 

meals of my life. One particular 

taco that my grandmother 

made for me is called Tacos a 

La Malinche. I’d help get all the 

ingredients ready for her to cook, 

like getting the hen from our 

backyard, going to the tortilleria 

for a kilo of freshly made tortillas 

for 5 pesos, and asking Doña 

Chachina for permission to pick 

avocados for guacamole from 

her backyard tree. 

The tortillas are heated directly 

on the fire for a unique smoky 

burnt tortilla flavor. The chicken is 

slowly braised with fresh herbs 

and hoja santa, then served 

on a bed of guacamole, and 

garnished with crispy chicken 

skin chicharrones and homemade 

crema de rancho (sour cream). 

My grandma still makes this 

meal for me on my birthday 

every year, and I think it’s an 

example of family traditions and 

embodies how Mexican cuisines 

are represented. It’s all about the 

remembrance of childhood and 

the love of family that was put 

into making a simple taco. This 

will be a memory that’s in my 

head every day of my life. 

Tacos a La Malinche 

SERVES 4 

CHICKEN FILLING 

4 quarts water 

3 tablespoons salt 

1 teaspoon fresh oregano 

1 teaspoon fresh thyme 

1 leaf hoja santa 

1 teaspoon fresh rosemary 

1 pound boneless, skinless 

chicken breast 

CRISPY CHICKEN SKIN 

CHICHARRONES 

2 sides of chicken breast skin 

2 cups kosher salt 

4 quarts canola oil 

GUACAMOLE 

2 avocados 

½ serrano chile, minced 

½ lime 


CREMA DE RANCHO 

1 pint heavy cream 

½ cup buttermilk 

4 teaspoons lime juice 


FOR SERVING 

White corn tortillas 

Microgreens 

Make the chicken: Bring water 

and salt to a boil in a large pot; 

lower the heat to medium and 

add the herbs. Simmer for 3 

minutes, then add the chicken. 

Cook chicken on low until it 

will shred easily, about 30 

minutes. Remove chicken from 

the pot and finely shred. 

Make the chicharrones: Place 

chicken skin on a sheet pan 

and cover completely with 

salt; remove excess. Air dry 

for 2 days. In a large cast iron 

Dutch oven, heat oil to 350° 

and deep fry chicken skin for 

45 seconds. Drain on a paper 

towel lined plate. 

Make the guacamole: Smash 

pitted avocados with serrano, a 

squeeze of lime juice, and salt 

until well incorporated. 

Make the crema de rancho: In 

a mixing bowl, bring heavy 

cream to room temperature 

and stir in buttermilk. Cover 

the bowl with cheesecloth and 

let it sit overnight. Mix in lime 

and salt to serve. 

Assemble tacos by reheating 

tortillas on an open flame. Add 

guacamole, top with shredded 

chicken and drizzle with 

crema de rancho. Garnish with 

microgreens and chicken skin 

chicharrones. 

Now the executive chef at 

Puesto at the Headquarters, 

Chong plans to offer 

this taco on the menu. Below: 

Edgar with his grandfather at the 

mango fields in Jalisco. 

PHOTO COURTESY EDGAR CHONG 



STAYCATION | 

A Luxurious 

Day Trip to 

Tecate Beckons 

BY DEBRA BASS 

I 

f you’ve ever had any trepidation about crossing the border, 

this might be the perfect local excursion for those who want 

to be spoiled. Rancho La Puerta is located in Tecate about 

an hour east of the Otay border. The spa and health-centered 

resort renowned for its luxurious weeklong accommodations 

offers single-day excursions on select Saturdays of every month. 

The day trip includes a 50-minute classic massage, fitness 

classes, free time to get in touch with nature or relax by the 

pool, healthy morning snacks, Mediterranean lunch, a tour of 

the organic garden, and a cooking demonstration and buffet at 

La Cocina Que Canta. Round trip transportation to and from 

San Diego is included for $345. 

My day started with a 7:30am bus ride from the Mission Bay 

Visitors Center, and within two hours I found myself seated on 

the second floor of a rustic dining hall nibbling on a breakfast 

snack buffet of breads and muffins (with and without gluten or 

dairy), seasonal fruits, and freshly squeezed juices. 

I indicated my food preferences as non-dairy and pescatarian, 

and servers and supervisors attentively directed me to the most 

suitable choices on the buffet line before I even had to ask. Ingredients 

and preparations were readily communicated at every 

meal, making it clear that dietary restrictions are addressed with 

genuine concern. 

We split into groups for a tour of the grounds after breakfast. 

It seemed a bit overwhelming and sprawling at first, but once I 

learned to make the loop I realized the property is a series of circuitous 

paths that make getting lost nearly impossible. Rancho La 

Puerta is designed with accidental exercise in mind and the amenities 

are purposely sprinkled throughout to incentivize wandering. 

Following the morning tour, the itinerary in my welcome 

packet described a schedule of fitness classes ranging from 

intense core workouts to gentle meditation. I selected the abs 

class, followed by yoga—and then it was already time for the 

Mediterranean lunch buffet. The maître d' recognized me from 

breakfast and guided me to accommodating dishes. I ended up 

with a plateful of salads and vegetables that included a blend 

of roasted eggplant, bell peppers, carrots, zucchini, snap peas, 

tomatoes, and sweet potato, plus a side salad topped with spicy 

garbanzo beans. 

There was just enough time after lunch for a massage and nap 

under a blanket in a quiet lounge area, so I decided to skip the 

two-mile hike up Alex’s Oak Trail. 

At 3pm we were whisked off to the resort’s culinary center, 

La Cocina Que Canta, which translates to “The Kitchen That 

Sings.” It was named after the delightful bird songs from the 

property’s morning visitors. 

We toured the six-acre organic farm attached to the culinary 

center and cooking school and got a lesson in devotion. 

The farm uses no commercial or animal fertilizers, and we 

were introduced to an abundance of happy worms working 

through compost. Chef Denise Roa, who has been with the 

ranch for eight years, said that the worms are just one of the 

many things that make the soil so fertile and the produce so 

unparalleled. 


| STAYCATION 

PHOTOS COURTESY RANCHO LA PUERTA 

As we sauntered through the farm rows, she encouraged us 

to bend down and snap off tiny stalks of broccoli and leaves of 

different varieties of arugula, spinach, and mustard greens. We 

stopped often to sample and almost everyone smiled in surprise 

at the pleasant flavors of the raw leafy bits. The arugula was 

spicy and the broccoli sweet. The real selling point was when 

Roa tugged up a bulb of celery and passed around pieces of it. 

It was vaguely peppery, earthy, and faintly sweet; certainly not 

your typically bland, crunchy stick used as a delivery system for 

something with actual flavor. This was celery you could snack 

on cheerfully, even if you weren’t on some torturous diet. 

The evening meal was made largely from the garden and included 

Moroccan sweet potato lentil stew, citrus-marinated kale 

with apple and pepitas, arugula salad with quinoa and avocado, 

and roasted shrimp and turnips served on cedar planks with 

lemon-cilantro chimichurri. 

Dessert was a chocolate coconut ginger mousse. We all agreed 

that the cups for this heavenly concoction were much too 

small—and like the day—ran out too quickly. 

»rancholapuerta.com 


LOCAL ATTRACTIONS | 

BY ERIN JACKSON 

Check This Out 

TASTE VENTURE TOURS 

As founder of Taste Venture Tours, Dominique 

Cancio guides curious explorers to 

Barrio Logan to experience the neighborhood’s 

unique culinary offerings and learn about its history 

and culture. 

“I want people to have real conversations— 

and the best way I know how to do that is over 

food,” says Cancio. 

Tours typically depart from Iron Fist Brewing 

Co. and include a guided stroll to view the 

Chicano Park murals, a behind-the-scenes look 

at Thorn Brewery with tacos from Chicano Soul 

Food, and a taste of something sweet before a 

final stop at Border X for loteria or Latin jazz 

night. From start to finish, the experience typically 

lasts three to four hours. 

Cancio is expanding the company’s offerings 

to include daytime Barrio Logan tours and crossborder 

excursions to Tijuana and Ensenada. 

» tasteventuretours.com 

Events 

MAY 

Gator By The Bay returns with classic 

New Orleans cuisine, live music, and 

bon temps from May 9–12. 

» gatorbythebay.com 

Join executive chef Jeff Jackson and 

Matt Gordon (of Urban Solace) for Playing 

With Fire, a wood-fired dinner at 

The Grill at Torrey Pines on May 6. 

» lodgetorreypines.com 

AVANT’s culinary team will teach you how 

to make a delicious dinner that’s light on 

calories and rich in flavor at the AVANT 

School of Cooking on May 8. 

» ranchobernardoinn.com 

Journey to Wild Willow Farm for a 

South Bay Culinary Tour featuring a 

coffee demo, farm-to-table lunch, and 

wine tasting on May 25. 

» epicureansandiego.com 

JUNE 

The Seedling Soirée is the Olivewood 

Gardens & Learning Center’s 

annual fundraiser that showcases the 

season’s bounty with garden-inspired 

cocktails and a chef’s culinary feast on 

June 1. 

» olivewoodgarden.org 

Taste of Little Italy returns with 

tasty bites and beverages on a 

self-guided tour through one of San 

Diego’s most vibrant dining neighborhoods 

on June 19. 

» littleitalysd.com 

Go behind the scenes on a Beer 

Geek Tour that starts at White Labs, 

followed by lunch at Brothers Provisions 

and a tour at Societe Brewing 

Company. The info-packed beer experience 

takes place on June 29. 

» epicureansandiego.com 

Find more events online at ediblesandiego.com/event-list. 

a comfortable, affordable healthy home awaits you 

EcoArtisan Builders 

Healthy Homes, Consciously Crafted 

Mark Letizia 

ecoartisan@mac.com 

license 882970 

www.ecoartisan.builders 

858.569.0415 phone 

Gelato, Coffee & Panini 

Housemade 

Small Batch Gelato 

escogelato.com 

Downtown Escondido 

Featuring local produce from our community. 


| LOCAL ATTRACTIONS 

BY THEODORE R. NIEKRAS 

In Season 

FORAGING IN MAY AND JUNE 

Although our spring showers have already 

come and gone, that old adage about May flowers 

still stands, especially this year. Hike any 

ditch or crevasse and find greens like dandelion, 

sow thistle, purslane, wood sorrel, wild fennel, 

mallow, wild mustard, and watercress. 

Sow thistle, dandelion’s close cousin, is one 

of my favorites. Everything from root to shoot 

can be eaten on this plant and similar ones, but 

watch out for the central stalk that tends to have 

small thorns. Kumquat stands out as a citrus 

that’ll be plentifully available. Burdock should be 

prime for its artichoke-flavored stalk and root. 

Last but not least, forage for the common garden 

snail in the evening. This snail was reportedly 

introduced to California during the Gold Rush 

by a Frenchman who dearly missed his escargot. 

Disclaimer: When foraging for food, anything 

collected should be properly identified and prepared 

before consuming. 

Step intowonder... 

... and explore an endless array of fitness classes and the 

beauty of a sacred mountain. Fill up with fresh air and 

sun-kissed fare grown on our organic farm. Rancho La 

Puerta marries simplicity with splendor. We don’t just 

renew minds and bodies. We tend carefully to your soul. 

Destination Wellness Resort & Spa 

877-440-7778 • RANCHOLAPUERTA.COM 


SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION 

Neighborhood Dining Guide 

These restaurants are either locally owned, passionate about local sourcing, or both. Enjoy a delicious meal 

and make sure to tell them that Edible San Diego sent you! 

NORTH COUNTY 

MISSION BEACH 

POINT LOMA 

A.R. VALENTIEN 

11480 North Torrey Pines Rd., La Jolla 

858-453-4420 • lodgetorreypines.com/ar-valentien 

The Torrey Pines Lodge’s signature restaurant, 

A.R. Valentien, highlights regional San Diego 

cuisine served in an elegant, timbered indooroutdoor 

dining room overlooking the 18th hole 

of Torrey Pines Golf Course. Executive chef Jeff 

Jackson sources only the best local provisions, 

and the menu changes frequently based on 

seasonal fare available. The restaurant takes 

its name from a talented early-20th-century 

California artist whose works are exhibited 

throughout the restaurant. 

ESCOGELATO 

122 South Kalmia St., Escondido 

760-745-6500 • escogelato.com 

Located in the heart of Escondido, EscoGelato is 

made fresh daily using the highest quality ingredients 

and fresh fruit sourced from local farmers. 

The result is a luscious, super-creamy gelato that’s 

full of flavor. You will taste the difference. In addition 

to the main event, enjoy a nice selection of 

paninis, soups, salads, coffee, and tea. 

JUICE WAVE 

3733 Mission Blvd., Mission Beach 

858-488-0800 • juicewavesd.com 

What began as San Diego’s first organic juice truck now has 

two happy homes in Miramar and Mission Beach. Still, their 

commitment rings true: “Refresh and nourish the soul by 

using the best quality farm-fresh ingredients from local farms 

that reflect the radiant growing season in Southern California.” 

Check out their creatively named cleanses, like Lettuce 

Love, Turnip The Beet, and Kalefornia. 

OCEANA COASTAL KITCHEN 

3999 Mission Blvd., San Diego 

858-539-8635 • catamaranresort.com/dining-entertainment/ 

oceana-san-diego-restaurant 

Oceana Coastal Kitchen features chef-driven California cuisine 

and a modern, ocean-inspired design. Oceana offers bayfront 

dining at an iconic Pacific Beach hideaway. Executive 

chef Steven Riemer’s playful interpretations of classic dishes 

highlight the purity and flavors of California local produce 

and a commitment to sustainable ingredients. A cold bar with 

sushi options, small bites, and main dishes includes the freshest 

seafood available from the coast of Baja and the Pacific. 

SOLARE 

2820 Roosevelt Rd., San Diego 

619-270-9670 • solarelounge.com 

Solare is an authentic Italian restaurant with a special 

focus on southern Italy and Sicily featuring a menu made 

with fresh ingredients selected daily. Blending modern 

and traditional tastes, the results are light and healthy 

dishes brimming with natural flavors. Complement your 

meal with one of 2,000 bottles of wine from the cellar or 

30 wines by the glass. Solare is committed to serving the 

cuisine of today, created with all the love and attention to 

detail from generations past. 

DOWNTOWN / LITTLE ITALY 

BIVOUAC CIDERWORKS 

3986 30th St., San Diego 

619-725-0844 • bivouaccider.com 

As a center for experimentation and 

camaraderie, Bivouac Ciderworks 

is a welcome home for active, creative, 

and outdoorsy cider and food 

enthusiasts alike. Their goal is to inspire curiosity and 

foster a passion for what craft cider brings to the table. 

The outdoor-inspired tasting room, right in the heart of 

North Park, features a full menu of food options. Don’t 

miss the Impossible Burger, award-winning tuna poke, 

and vegan jackfruit sliders. 

PHOTO COURTESY SUZANNE SCHAFFNER ESCOGELATO 


Farmers’ Markets 

Monday 

Escondido—Welk Resort † 

8860 Lawrence Welk Dr. 

3–7pm, year-round 

760-651-3630 

Tuesday 

Coronado 

1st St. & B Ave., Ferry Landing 

2:30–6pm 

760-741-3763 

Escondido * 

262 East Grand Ave. 

2:30–7pm (2:30–6pm Oct to May) 

760-480-4101 

Mira Mesa * 

10510 Reagan Rd. 

2:30–7pm (3–6pm fall-winter) 

858-272-7054 

Otay Ranch—Chula Vista 

2015 Birch Rd. and Eastlake Blvd. 

4–8pm (3–7pm winter) 

619-279-0032 

Pacific Beach Tuesday † 

Bayard & Garnet 

2–7:30pm (2–7pm fall-winter) 

619-233-3901 

People’s Produce Night Market 

5010 Market St. 

5–8pm 

619-813-9148 

San Marcos NEW! 

1035 La Bonita Dr. 

3–7pm 

858-272-7054 

UCSD Town Square 

UCSD Campus, Town Square 

10am–2pm, Sept to June 

858-534-4248 

Vail Headquarters * 

32115 Temecula Pkwy. 

9am–1pm 

760-728-7343 

Wednesday 

Little Italy Wednesday *† 

501 W. Date St. 

9am–1pm 

619-233-5009 

Ocean Beach 

4900 block of Newport Ave. 


619-279-0032 

State Street in Carlsbad Village 

State St. & Carlsbad Village Dr. 

3–7pm (3–6pm fall-winter) 

858-272-7054 

Temecula—Promenade * 

40820 Winchester Rd. by Macy’s 

9am–1pm 

760-728-7343 

Thursday 

Lemon Grove 

2885 Lemon Grove Ave. 

3–7pm 

619-813-9148 

Linda Vista *† 

6939 Linda Vista Rd. 


760-504-4363 

North Park Thursday *† 

2900 North Park Way 

3–7:30pm 

619-550-7180 

Oceanside Morning * 

Pier View Way & Coast Hwy. 101 

9am–1pm 

760-791-3241 

Rancho Bernardo 

16535 Via Esprillo 

11am–2pm 

619-279-0032 

SDSU 

Campanile Walkway btwn Hepner Hall 

& Love Library 

10am–3pm, Sept to June 

www.clube3.org 

Horton Plaza Lunch Market 

199 Horton Plaza 

11am–2pm 

619-481-4959 

Valley Center 

28246 Lilac Rd. 

3–7pm (2–6pm, Nov to Mar) 

vccountryfarmersmarket@gmail.com 

Friday 

Borrego Springs 

700 Palm Canyon Dr. 

7am–noon, Oct to May 

760-767-5555 

Horton Plaza Lunch Market 

225 Broadway Circle 

11am–2pm 

619-795-3363 

Imperial Beach *† 

10 Evergreen Ave. 

2–7pm, (2–6pm winter) 

info@imperialbeachfarmersmarket.org 

La Mesa Village * 

La Mesa Blvd. btwn Palm & Allison 

3–7pm, year-round 

619-795-3363 

Mission Valley *† 

Civita Park 

7960 Civita Blvd. 

3–7pm, Apr to Jan 

760-504-4363 

Bernardo Winery 

13330 Paseo del Verano Norte 

9am–1pm 

760-500-1709 

Saturday 

City Heights *†! 

Wightman St. btwn Fairmount & 43rd 

St. 

9am–1pm 

760-504-4363 

Del Mar 

1050 Camino Del Mar 

1–4pm 

858-465-0013 

Kearny Mesa 

8725 Ariva Ct. 

9:30am–1:30pm 

858-272-7054 

Little Italy Mercato † 

600 W. Date St. 

8am–2pm 

619-233-3901 

Pacific Beach 

4150 Mission Blvd. 

8am–noon 

760-741-3763 

Poway * 

14134 Midland Rd. 

8am–1pm 

619-249-9395 

Rancho Penasquitos YMCA 

9400 Fairgrove Ln. 

9am–1pm 

858-484-8788 

Scripps Ranch 

10380 Spring Canyon Rd. 

9am–1pm 

858-586-7933 

Temecula—Old Town * 

Sixth & Front St., Old Town 

8am–12:30pm 

760-728-7343 

Vista *† 

325 Melrose Dr. 

8am–1pm 

760-945-7425 

Sunday 

Allied Gardens Sunday 

5170 GreenBrier Ave. 

10am–2pm 

858-568-6291, 619-865-6574 

Hillcrest * 

3960 Normal & Lincoln Sts. 

9am–2pm 

619-237-1632 

La Jolla Open Aire 

Girard Ave. & Genter 

9am–1:30pm 

858-454-1699 

Leucadia * 

185 Union St. & Vulcan St. 

10am–2pm 

858-272-7054 

Murrieta * 

Village Walk Plaza 

I-15, exit west on Calif. Oaks & Kalmia 

9am–1pm 

760-728-7343 

North San Diego / Sikes Adobe † 

12655 Sunset Dr., Escondido 

10:30am–3:30pm 

858-735-5311 

Rancho Santa Fe Del Rayo Village 

16079 San Dieguito Rd. 

9:30am–2pm 

619-743-4263 

Santa Ysabel 

21887 Washington St. 

10am–4pm 

760-782-9202 

Solana Beach 

410 South Cedros Ave. 

Noon–4pm 

858-755-0444 

* Market vendors accept WIC (Women, Infants, Children Farmers’ Market checks) 

† Market vendors accept EBT (Electronic Benefit Transfer) 

! Currently only City Heights accepts WIC Farmers’ Market checks and the WIC 

Fruit and Vegetable checks. 

All San Diego County markets listed except SDSU and Seeds @ City are 

certified by the County Agricultural Commissioner. 

Visit ediblesandiego.com and click on “Resources” for more complete 

information and links to farmers’ market websites. 


PREP | 

BY OLIVIA HAYO 

How to Make 

Cóctel de Frutas 

Mexican Fruit Cocktail 

T 

he pucker of lime and heat of chiles are addicting 

sensations, but couple them with cooling fruits 

and vegetables and you’ve got a recipe for the ultimate 

refreshment: cóctel de frutas. You’ve undoubtedly seen 

fruterías, Mexican juice bars or kiosks lined with cups of 

fresh-cut fruit doused in lime, chile powder, and dripping 

in a deep red sauce, and you either bought a cup 

and found yourself hooked, or wandered by curiously 

vowing to try it another time. 

Here’s a quick guide to create one of your own at 

home with natural ingredients that will make you a 

devoted fan in no time. 

1. Chile Powder 

Popular under the brand name Tajín, this seasoning 

blend is made from chiles, salt, lime, and an anticaking 

agent. While we’d grab Tajín from our pantry in a pinch, 

there’s nothing like making your own that’s completely customized 

to your palate and free of any preservatives. Here’s 

a recipe to get you started: Remove seeds and stems of 1 

cup dried chiles de árbol and 1 whole ancho chile. Toast 

in a skillet until fragrant and set aside to cool. Break chiles 

into smaller pieces and finely grind using a spice grinder; 

mix with 2 ½ tablespoons ground dried lime (available at 

international markets) and smoked salt to taste. 

2. Chamoy 

Sweet, sour, spicy, and salty: This condiment is a secret 

weapon you’ll want to find any excuse to use. Aside from 

its use as a sauce on cóctel de frutas or swirled through a 

fruit smoothie, it’s also great in savory dishes (just imagine 

it as a glaze brushed over grilled chicken). There are many 

brands available at the grocery store but making your own 

with a few ingredients means you always know what’s in 

it. Soak 5 dried apricots in warm water for 30 minutes 

or up to overnight. Discard liquid and add the fruit to a 

blender with 1 cup apricot jam, ¼ cup fresh lime juice, 

2 teaspoons red pepper flakes, 1 teaspoon ground ancho 

chile, and 1 teaspoon salt. Blend until smooth. Store in 

the fridge for up to a week. 

3. Fruit 

Spices and condiments can only do so much, so be 

sure to select seasonal fruits and vegetables with varying 

textures, colors, and sweetness for the best result. 

Favorites include mango, watermelon, jicama, cantelope, 

cucumber, pineapple, and young coconut. Cut into 

spears, wedges, cubes, or slices, and arrange on a serving 

platter, or divide into cups. 

Dust everything with chile powder, drizzle with 

chamoy, and top with dried coconut, chile mango, 

crushed peanuts, or pieces of tamarind candy. 

OLIVIA HAYO 


E X C L U S I V E E V E N T S E R I E S 

B A J A

Edible San Diego E Edition Issue #53 Special Issue May 2019

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