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Edible San Diego E Edition Issue #53 Special Issue May 2019

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Explore the flavors of <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> County<br />

NO. 53 • SPECIAL ISSUE • MAY <strong>2019</strong><br />

EDIBLESANDIEGO.COM<br />

MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES<br />

ROOTED<br />

IN<br />

FLAVOR


2 ediblesandiego.com


Rooted in Flavor • <strong>Special</strong> <strong>Issue</strong><br />

CONTENTS<br />

<strong>Issue</strong> 53<br />

IN THIS ISSUE<br />

DEPARTMENTS<br />

4 Publisher’s Note<br />

LIVING LOCAL<br />

6 Hot Dish, Liquid Assets, Let’s Grow<br />

EATING WELL<br />

9 Five Ways to Eat a Cactus<br />

GROWING GOOD<br />

12 Finfish Farming: Envisioning<br />

Aquaculture in <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong><br />

STAYCATION<br />

26 Finding Bliss in Tecate<br />

LOCAL ATTRACTIONS<br />

28 Check This Out, Events, In Season<br />

31 Farmers’ Markets<br />

PREP<br />

32 Cóctel de Frutas: How to Make a<br />

Mexican Fruit Cocktail<br />

DIGITAL LINEUP<br />

Find more regional recipes<br />

and cross-border content on<br />

ediblesandiego.com this <strong>May</strong><br />

and June.<br />

Vegan-Friendly Mexican<br />

Street Food<br />

Dining Out in Barrio Logan<br />

The History of the Michelada<br />

A Guide to Eating and Drinking<br />

in Valle de Guadalupe<br />

Craft Breweries to Try Now<br />

in Tijuana<br />

The Ultimate Guide to Ordering<br />

Street Tacos<br />

Eating Chiles for Health<br />

All About Heirloom Corn<br />

Weekend Escape to Tecate<br />

The Story of Kahlúa<br />

FEATURES<br />

Tres Generaciones<br />

Three Generations<br />

PAGE 15<br />

Somos Diversos<br />

We Are Diverse<br />

PAGE 16<br />

A Modern Infusion of<br />

Indigenous Ingredients<br />

PAGE 18<br />

Cena con Mi Familia<br />

Dinner with My Family<br />

PAGE 21<br />

ON THE COVER: The marlin tlacoyos at Los<br />

Compas are a twist on a pre-Hispanic<br />

specialty made with heritage corn and<br />

topped with marlin, avocado, and pickled<br />

white peppers. Read more on page 18.<br />

Modern Rituals and Traditional<br />

Mexican Wellness Practices<br />

Ten Essential Mexican<br />

Cooking Tools<br />

The Bonita Museum Displays<br />

Cali-Mex Agricultural Heritage<br />

How to Make Flour and Corn<br />

Tortillas at Home<br />

Destination Dining: A Master<br />

Gardener in the Kitchen at<br />

Corazón de Tierra<br />

Fausto Polanco Furniture in<br />

Rosarito, Mexico merges rich<br />

traditions of the past with<br />

modern influences of today.<br />

faustopolanco.com.mx<br />

OLIVIA HAYO<br />

2 ediblesandiego.com


SPECIAL ISSUE • MAY <strong>2019</strong> | edible SAN DIEGO 3


PUBLISHER’S NOTE |<br />

Nava family<br />

summer in<br />

Weldon, CA,<br />

circa 1972.<br />

Table Talk<br />

I<br />

f we are what we eat, then we are so many things. For just<br />

a moment, think back to when you were young: What did<br />

you eat, and who prepared it for you? Go back one or two<br />

generations more and consider what culinary traditions shaped<br />

your life today.<br />

My ancestors made their way from England, Scotland,<br />

France, and Spain to the US and Mexico generations ago, and<br />

fast-forward, I am a mid-century Girl Scout who learned my<br />

way around the kitchen by helping my mom from an early age.<br />

She passed on the essential life skills, like showing me how many<br />

different things you can put in a tortilla for an after-school snack.<br />

Growing up as part of a very large extended family, I looked<br />

forward to every holiday because something fun was always in<br />

the works—sleepovers, camping, and big Christmas potlucks.<br />

Nowadays, plant-strong or low-carb options may sit alongside the<br />

holiday tamales, but we make sure one cousin brings the Jell-O<br />

salad. One bite brings back memories of beloved aunties and<br />

uncles since passed and the countless adventures, sunsets, milestones,<br />

and hugs we shared.<br />

Year by year, my childhood saw a formerly rural area become<br />

suburbanized. Our little orchard and garden became like an<br />

island as dairy farms and citrus orchards gave way all around us.<br />

As the summer heat rose each year, my friends, siblings, and I<br />

would climb apricot and plum trees, eating our fill, while my<br />

mom would stay up late to make jam when the house was cool<br />

and quiet. Those jars glimmered like jewels all year long in our<br />

hall closet—special gifts to be given with uncomparable flavor on<br />

breakfast toast.<br />

We invite you to reminisce about your own food memories,<br />

and to make some new ones. Since we celebrate authenticity,<br />

<strong>Edible</strong> <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> dedicates this special issue, Rooted in Flavor, to<br />

the culinary traditions unique to our part of the world. Because a<br />

plate of food can reveal so much about our shared past, present,<br />

and future.<br />

To add more spice, convenience, and aha moments to your<br />

days and nights, make sure to visit ediblesandiego.com and subscribe<br />

to our monthly newsletter and social media platforms. If<br />

you enjoy our work, please patronize our advertisers’ businesses,<br />

subscribe, and invite your friends to join our rapidly growing<br />

<strong>Edible</strong> <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> community—all of which enables us to keep<br />

these essential conversations happening. Thank you.<br />

Katie Stokes<br />

Publisher, <strong>Edible</strong> <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong><br />

4 ediblesandiego.com


edible Communities<br />

2011 James Beard Foundation<br />

Publication of the Year<br />

MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES<br />

EDITORIAL<br />

Katie Stokes<br />

Editor in Chief<br />

Maria Hesse<br />

Managing Editor<br />

Felicia Campbell<br />

Executive Digital Editor<br />

Olivia Hayo<br />

Associate Editor<br />

Dawn Mobley<br />

Copy Editor<br />

Dee Gomez<br />

Editorial Intern<br />

DESIGN TEAM<br />

Allie Wist<br />

Designer<br />

Olivia Hayo<br />

Lead Photographer<br />

PUBLISHER<br />

Katie Stokes<br />

SALES & MARKETING<br />

Cass Husted<br />

Marketing<br />

John Vawter<br />

Advertising Sales<br />

Scott White<br />

Advertising Sales<br />

@ediblesd<br />

@ediblesandiego<br />

@ediblesandiego<br />

Healthy Diet, Healthy Living<br />

WE DELIVER CUSTOMIZED BOXES OF ORGANIC FRUITS, VEGETABLES<br />

AND ARTISANAL FARM PRODUCTS RIGHT TO YOUR DOORSTEP<br />

ADVERTISING<br />

For more information about rates and deadlines, contact<br />

info@ediblesandiego.com 619-756-7292<br />

No part of this publication may be used without written permission<br />

from the publisher. © <strong>2019</strong> All rights reserved.<br />

Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings, and omissions. If<br />

an error comes to your attention, please let us know and accept our<br />

sincere apologies. Thank you.<br />

COVER PHOTO BY OLIVIA HAYO<br />

CONTACT<br />

<strong>Edible</strong> <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong><br />

P.O. Box 83549 • <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>, CA 92138<br />

619-756-7292 • info@ediblesandiego.com • ediblesandiego.com<br />

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EDIBLESD<strong>2019</strong><br />

SPECIAL ISSUE • MAY <strong>2019</strong> | edible SAN DIEGO 5


LIVING LOCAL |<br />

Fresh, exciting,<br />

and vibrant are<br />

the themes<br />

of the Creta<br />

signature pita<br />

(far left), violeta<br />

latte (left), and<br />

the Chicanostyle<br />

mimosa<br />

(bottom).<br />

Hot Dish<br />

Telefónica Gastro Park<br />

BY KELLY BONE<br />

“Food Has No Border” proclaims the billboard rising over the<br />

sun-dappled dining patio of Tijuana’s Telefónica Gastro Park.<br />

Wood-slat stairs rise to seats overlooking the plenitude of dining<br />

options, including many vegetable-heavy dishes and a 100% vegan<br />

taqueria. Here, local and global flavors hug an onsite brewery<br />

decorated in fluttering piñatas, and murals scratch at the surface of<br />

issues like immigration, community, and humanity at large.<br />

La Taqueria Vegiee<br />

Chef Antonio Quintero’s La Taqueria Vegiee is beloved on both<br />

sides of the border (they also have a food truck rooted in South<br />

Park). The adobada taco highlights the classic flavors of Tijuana<br />

with the craft of a vegan kitchen. Stuffed with trigo—a chewy<br />

seitan made with wheat, barley, and rye—marinated in achiote<br />

paste and thyme, the protein comes folded in a corn tortilla<br />

with cilantro, chopped onions, and guacamole.<br />

» facebook.com/lataqueriavegiee<br />

Creta<br />

The spirit of the Mediterranean rises in the vegetable-loaded<br />

Creta. This portobello pita (above) rolls flame-grilled mushrooms<br />

with cherry tomatoes, paper-thin red onions, fat cuts<br />

of avocados, and baby greens (hold the basil aioli for a vegan<br />

option) in a pillowy flatbread. More greens are tossed with<br />

chopped tomatoes and cucumbers dressed in a briny Kalamata<br />

olive tapenade and served on the side.<br />

» facebook.com/cretaft<br />

Satabu<br />

Colorful vegetables laze across a flour tortilla in the hongos<br />

mixtos tacos at Satabu. Roasted mushrooms and juicy poblano<br />

peppers come threaded with fideos de arroz (rice noodles), pinto<br />

beans, and bits of corn under pickled purple cabbage, cilantro,<br />

and guacamole. A self-administered splash of salsa will blend<br />

the flavors together perfectly. Cash only.<br />

» facebook.com/satabutj<br />

Telefónica Gastro Park<br />

Boulevard Aguacaliente #8924<br />

Tijuana, Baja California 22000<br />

» facebook.com/TelefonicaGastroPark<br />

KELLY BONE; ERIN JACKSON (2)<br />

6 ediblesandiego.com


Liquid Assets<br />

BY ERIN JACKSON<br />

Three ways to satiate your thirst with modern<br />

Mexican beverages in Barrio Logan<br />

Where the chefs shop.<br />

Open to the public everyday 8-5 pm.<br />

Border X Brewing<br />

Any of the brewery’s beers can be michelada-fied with a splash of La<br />

Diabla mix, but the Pepino Sour, a Berliner Weisse with lime and<br />

cucumber, serves as the ultimate pelo del perro (hair of the dog).<br />

» borderxbrewing.com<br />

Por Vida<br />

Unique drinks like violeta latte, spicy mango lemonade, and<br />

horchata cold brew are offered at this neighborhood coffee shop<br />

and art gallery. But the mazapan latte, served hot or cold with<br />

De La Rosa mazapan crumbles, is a standout.<br />

» porvidacollective.com<br />

Barrio Dogg<br />

The Chicano-style mimosa features a mini bottle of Mexican bubbly<br />

upended in tropical punch with key lime juice and chamoy. A<br />

Tajín rim adds a salty, spicy bite that boosts the fruity flavors.<br />

» barriodogg.com<br />

Let’s Grow<br />

El Chayote<br />

Poderoso<br />

BY JESSICA GONZALEZ<br />

Native to Latin America, specifically Mexico and Guatemala,<br />

chayote was a staple in the Aztec diet for centuries. <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>’s<br />

proximity often affords us a similar climate, providing a spectacular<br />

opportunity to grow one of Mexico’s prized culinary gifts.<br />

This tropical squash is a perennial favorite and gardener’s dream<br />

as it produces year after year. Likened to dense cucumbers, chayotes<br />

can be consumed raw or cooked. Thinly sliced in fresh ceviche,<br />

added to soups, or pickled atop carnitas tacos, chayotes deliver an<br />

exceptionally versatile harvest.<br />

Chayotes are opportunists: The hearty vines are enthusiastic<br />

climbers, so placement is key. Select an organic chayote from your<br />

local farmers’ market and rest it, stem end up, on organic garden<br />

soil in full sun. Within a few weeks your chayote will sprout<br />

(think sprouting potatoes) and begin unfurling small vines. Once<br />

the vines are five to six inches long, pop the chayote directly in the<br />

ground, ensuring the vines are exposed. This rapid grower wants<br />

organic compost, nitrogen, and a layer of mulch. Water your plant<br />

when the soil is dry to the touch, adding diluted fish emulsion<br />

every two to three weeks. Harvest chayote when they are four to<br />

six inches long. They keep well refrigerated for up to a month.<br />

SPECIAL ISSUE • MAY <strong>2019</strong> | edible SAN DIEGO 7


Fabulous<br />

HILLCREST<br />

FARMERS<br />

MARKET<br />

Sundays<br />

9AM-2PM<br />

HILLCRESTFARMERSMARKET.COM<br />

8 ediblesandiego.com


| EATING WELL<br />

Low in fat, high in fiber<br />

and antioxidants, tart<br />

and crisp nopales grow<br />

abundantly throughout<br />

our region.<br />

Five Ways to Eat a Cactus<br />

BY FELICIA CAMPBELL<br />

T<br />

he most commonly eaten cactus is the prickly pear or Opuntia.<br />

In Mexico, the pads or nopales are called lengua de vaca—<br />

“cow's tongue”—and in Sicily, the fruit or tuna is referred to as fico<br />

d'India, or “Indian fig.” Both the fruit and the pads can be eaten<br />

cooked or raw and are a great source of fiber and antioxidants, but<br />

they do require a little prep before getting started.<br />

Nopales have a bright, vegetal flavor, like an amped-up stalk<br />

of asparagus. Select paddles that are green and plump. Smaller,<br />

thinner young paddles are more tender. While most store-bought<br />

pads will already have their sharp spines removed, you’ll still want<br />

to wash the pad. Hold it at an angle to slice off any remaining<br />

spines and cut out the eyes where the spines were attached. Trim<br />

off the outer quarter-inch of the pad and the thick base and the<br />

nopales are ready to cook.<br />

The tuna fruits are a great addition to any fruit-based dish or<br />

salad, with a taste that’s somewhere between watermelon and<br />

bubble gum. To prepare them, slice off both ends and make one<br />

vertical cut down the body of the pear. Slip your fingers into the<br />

slit and grab the skin. Peel off the thick outer skin and discard. The<br />

flesh is filled with tiny seeds, which are completely edible. Chop<br />

and toss with orange slices and mint for a simple fruit salad.<br />

Now that your nopales and tuna are ready to go, here are five<br />

ways to cook with them.<br />

Grilled Nopales<br />

Preheat a grill to medium and brush the pads with olive oil<br />

and a hearty sprinkle of salt and pepper. Grill them over medium<br />

to medium-high heat until golden, about 3 minutes on each side.<br />

Grilled nopales can be cut into strips and added to tacos<br />

or left whole and used as a base for tostada toppings like salty<br />

cheese, refried beans, or stewed meat.<br />

Blanched Nopales<br />

Add cleaned nopal paddles, whole or sliced, to cold water in<br />

a pan. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer. As the cactus<br />

cooks, it turns a darker green and releases a sticky liquid similar<br />

SPECIAL ISSUE • MAY <strong>2019</strong> | edible SAN DIEGO 9


EATING WELL |<br />

to your muffin or cupcake batter, or use the juice to add a complex<br />

layer of flavor to your lemon bars.<br />

Nopal Tortillas<br />

Soften 4–5 cactus pads in boiling water with a pinch of salt and<br />

½ teaspoon baking soda for 5 to 10 minutes. Process the pads<br />

with a few sprigs of cilantro in a blender or food processor until<br />

smooth. Add about 4 ½ cups masa harina to a large mixing bowl<br />

and slowly add pureed nopales and warm water in batches, mixing<br />

as you go, until the dough is the consistency of soft cookie dough.<br />

Mix in 1 teaspoon of salt. Separate the dough into 16 small balls<br />

and refrigerate for 10 minutes to an hour. When ready to cook,<br />

flatten each ball between two sheets of wax paper with a rolling pin<br />

until they are about ⅛ inch thick. Cook on a skillet or comal over<br />

medium-high heat for 1 to 2 minutes per side or until they puff.<br />

Enjoy in place of traditional corn or flour tortillas.<br />

to okra; skim this juice and discard while the nopales simmer.<br />

Continue cooking until the cactus is al dente, about 10 minutes.<br />

Rinse to remove any remaining liquid and pat dry.<br />

To make a simple salad, toss blanched nopales with tomato,<br />

onion, cilantro, and ranchero cheese with lime and salt to<br />

taste. You can also add the blanched nopales to casseroles or<br />

scrambles along with diced chiles to add a hearty texture to a<br />

meatless dish.<br />

Juiced Prickly Pear<br />

To extract the juice of the prickly pear fruit, place peeled<br />

fruit into a blender or food processor and pulse until liquefied.<br />

Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a pitcher or bowl and discard<br />

remaining pulp and seeds. Six to 12 tunas will yield about<br />

one cup of juice.<br />

Add the juice to fresh lemonade, add an ounce to your margarita,<br />

or simply combine equal parts seltzer water and juice for<br />

a refreshing spritz.<br />

Baked Prickly Pear<br />

Swap peaches for prickly pear in a simple cobbler, dice and add<br />

HUNGRY FOR MORE?<br />

We publish new seasonal<br />

recipes every week. Get inspired<br />

at ediblesandiego.com.<br />

Prickly Pear Soda with Tajín<br />

and Mint<br />

By Olivia Hayo<br />

Chili-Lime Avocado Salad<br />

By Olivia Hayo<br />

Grilled Elote: Mexican-Style<br />

Corn<br />

By Felicia Campbell<br />

Vegan Cajun-Spiced<br />

Cauliflower Chickpea Tacos<br />

By Alexa Soto<br />

From the left: Vegan<br />

Cajun-Spiced Cauliflower<br />

Chickpea Tacos and<br />

Charred Corn and Grilled<br />

Stone Fruit Salad.<br />

Charred Corn and Grilled<br />

Stone Fruit Salad<br />

By Olivia Hayo<br />

Grilled Green Tomato<br />

Panzanella Salad<br />

By Olivia Hayo<br />

Watermelon, Feta, and<br />

Tomato Salad<br />

By Olivia Hayo<br />

Agua Frescas: Tasty Mocktails<br />

By Miguel Valdez<br />

Three-Step <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>-Style<br />

Campechana<br />

By Mitch Conniff<br />

OLIVIA HAYO, ALEXA SOTO<br />

10 ediblesandiego.com


LEARN ABOUT<br />

LOCALLY MADE COFFEE,<br />

CIDER, WINE, TEA,<br />

AND MORE<br />

SDBEVTIMES.COM<br />

@SDBEVTIMES<br />

SPECIAL ISSUE • MAY <strong>2019</strong> | edible SAN DIEGO 11


GROWING GOOD |<br />

Finfish Farming<br />

Envisioning Aquaculture<br />

in <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong><br />

BY ELAINE MASTERS<br />

A<br />

bout three miles offshore, a fishing boat tethers to a large<br />

circular ring bobbing on the surface—a fish pen swaying in<br />

a current and moored to the ocean floor nearly 300 feet below.<br />

Inside the carefully structured net, thousands of yellowtail flash as<br />

they move up and down the water column. The pen casts a shadow<br />

where wild fish cluster and claim shelter, while others shuttle<br />

beneath looking for food.<br />

This is the vision Don Kent, CEO of Hubbs-SeaWorld Research<br />

Institute (HSWRI), shares with other scientists, the Port of <strong>San</strong><br />

<strong>Diego</strong>, and the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration<br />

(NOAA). While local shellfish farms have been successfully<br />

established for years, open ocean finfish pens in federal waters along<br />

<strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>’s coast would be a first for the nation.<br />

Eating fish is generally considered a healthy, environmentally<br />

positive option and aquaculture could make the benefits more accessible<br />

and affordable. The scientists at Sustainable Fisheries point<br />

out that “the more seafood that is eaten in place of cow, the better,<br />

since [industrial] bovine farming is the largest driver of rainforest and<br />

biodiversity loss on the planet.”<br />

Aquaculture, the practice of growing water based species, has been<br />

going on for millennia. The Chinese farmed freshwater fish a thousand<br />

years ago and people in the Mediterranean raised carp as far<br />

back as the Middle Ages. Much later, in 1851, the state of California<br />

began regulating fisheries. By 1970 the Aquaculture Development<br />

Act declared that “it’s in the interest of the people that the practice<br />

of aquaculture be encouraged in order to augment food supplies,<br />

expand employment, promote economic activity, increase native fish<br />

stocks…and better use the land and water resources of the state.”<br />

California aquaculture has been in process ever since, along with<br />

growing pains and well-documented aquaculture fails outside of<br />

California that have left deep impressions, concerns, and mistrust.<br />

In 2018, a marine salmon farm in the Pacific Northwest failed,<br />

allowing over 300,000 Atlantic salmon to escape into Puget Sound.<br />

There’s little evidence that many survived, and whether they’ll<br />

compete with wild salmon has yet to be determined.<br />

The yellowtail that HSWRI is proposing for pens are a local<br />

species that is mostly caught in Mexico. <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> waters, on the<br />

northern end of their habitat, are just warm enough to potentially<br />

make farming them sustainable.<br />

<strong>Issue</strong>s and opportunities<br />

Pen density is one environmental issue that local aquaculture<br />

must manage. Elsewhere around the world, packed cages have<br />

increased the risk and transmission of disease. Kent and fellow<br />

HSWRI scientist Mark Drawbridge have been refining aquaculture<br />

best practices to keep pen populations low and yield<br />

healthier fish. Since 1982, HSWRI has worked with the state’s<br />

Ocean Resources Enhancement and Hatchery Program to grow<br />

and release white sea bass spawned and raised at their Carlsbad<br />

hatchery for both sport and commercial fishermen to harvest.<br />

Meanwhile, HSWRI has been exporting technical knowledge<br />

as well as hatchlings across borders to operations like Pacifico<br />

Aquaculture, a striped bass farm in northern Baja California.<br />

“Our investment in research is used across the border and then<br />

we buy the product back,” notes Kent.<br />

Striped sea bass came to Northern California by train for the<br />

World Expo in the 1920s and were later released into the <strong>San</strong><br />

Francisco Bay. In Southern California, the fast growing striped<br />

bass flourish in the Pacifico pens but can’t spawn successfully<br />

outside of their freshwater hatchery.<br />

Pacifico founder Omar Alfi and partner Daniel Farag both<br />

graduated from USC with degrees in business and private<br />

equity. Alfi felt that they “weren’t making anything tangible<br />

or impacting the world” before looking at food spaces and the<br />

growing global need for more protein. When they took over an<br />

existing northern Baja aquaculture facility that was in bankruptcy,<br />

they quickly realized that success was dependent on a<br />

closed system. Today, their fish pens float above an offshore<br />

submarine canyon. The health of the fishery is validated by the<br />

nearly 200 diverse employees and weekly water and ocean floor<br />

tests conducted by Mexican regulatory agencies.<br />

Some environmental concerns with aquaculture are more<br />

verifiable than others. A Coastkeeper report warns of “elevated<br />

levels of antibiotic residues, antibiotic resistant bacteria… and<br />

viruses in aquaculture raised finfish and shellfish.” Kent asserts<br />

such reports are unreliable since regulations require that chemical<br />

treatments can only be made with the consent of a veterinarian,<br />

and only chemicals that are not retained in the fish flesh are used.<br />

Problems with fish deformities, genetic integrity, and<br />

ERIC WOLFINGER PHOTOGRAPHY<br />

12 ediblesandiego.com


| GROWING GOOD<br />

euthanasia have also been reported. Although, aside from<br />

euthanasia, these harsh realities occur in the natural world<br />

and inform the practices of raising healthy farmed fish.<br />

Much has been learned and remedied in US waters and<br />

local operations could continue to make improvements with<br />

easier oversight, while reducing the carbon footprint by<br />

harvesting closer to market.<br />

Feed accounts for 50% of operation costs, and its<br />

ingredients are another sensitive topic for consideration.<br />

HSWRI is interested in a fish-based diet made from byproducts,<br />

or fish cuttings that are currently considered waste.<br />

This feed would reduce impacts on wild-caught fish and<br />

keep protein out of landfills. Overfeeding or feed waste is<br />

not a problem for aquaculture companies like Pacifico where<br />

employees watch a video monitor as fish pellets drop into<br />

the pens. When the fish stop feeding, they turn off the food,<br />

which minimizes waste on the ocean floor.<br />

Most wild fish harvests are reaching maximum<br />

sustainable yield<br />

In US waters, fish stocks are managed carefully on many<br />

levels. However, imported seafood, whether wild or farmed,<br />

is not subject to the same verifications, restrictions, size and<br />

capture limits, humane labor conditions, and water monitoring<br />

regulations. Kent says, “If we farm it ourselves, we’ll set<br />

our own standards.” We’ll know what we’re getting.<br />

Fish farming could help address the confusion over labeling<br />

or fish fraud: For example, LoveTheWild, a packaged farmedfish<br />

product endorsed by the Leonardo DiCaprio Foundation<br />

uses labeling that reveals where the fish was harvested. Kent<br />

envisions a QR code system at fish counters that would disclose<br />

when, where, and by whom the fish was harvested.<br />

Fishing jobs and the independent fisherman<br />

Commercial and sport fishermen aren’t convinced that US<br />

aquaculture development is in their best interest and demand<br />

a place in the discussions at national and state levels. What<br />

impact fish farming will have remains to be seen but there is evidence<br />

that aquaculture pens can be fishery enhancement tools.<br />

Pablo <strong>San</strong>chez-Jerez from the University of Alicante reported<br />

at the Offshore Mariculture Conference in 2010 that<br />

“the effect of attraction seems to be higher around farms than<br />

around traditional FADs (Fish Aggregating Devices)…with<br />

up to 2,800 times more wild fish in their immediate vicinity<br />

compared to areas without farms.”<br />

Drawbridge agrees, citing a study at their Catalina fish farm<br />

that found “pens are aggregating devices where fish seek shelter<br />

and create a thriving ecosystem, one that fishermen could use.”<br />

Aquaculture creates fishing jobs, as Pacifico has shown, but<br />

some fishermen prefer independence —though aquaculture<br />

might also provide stability for those in the ever-shifting<br />

industry. Kent says, “I know guys that leave from <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong><br />

and go all the way up to Oregon to fish for tuna, and they’re<br />

tired of it. They’d like to make a living for their families here.<br />

We need the boats. We need the labor. The 75 jobs on the<br />

farms themselves aren’t guys in white lab coats. It’s going<br />

to be guys that know how to work in rough water handling<br />

product. We’ll create another 200 jobs upstream and down,<br />

directly and indirectly. That’s 300 jobs from less than onethird<br />

of a square kilometer of surface area in the open sea.”<br />

The farmed species could also supplement wild landings, and<br />

it’s possible that wild-caught seafood would continue its trend<br />

towards greater value.<br />

Aquaculture: Net gain or net loss?<br />

Could aquaculture devastate the US fishing industry? Noah<br />

Oppenheim, executive director of the Pacific Coast Fisherman,<br />

claims that “this emerging industrial practice is incompatible<br />

with sustainable commercial fish practices embraced by our<br />

nation for generations.” The sentiment was supported by over a<br />

hundred organizations in reaction to proposals easing aquaculture<br />

permitting in Congress. Others are looking for one agency<br />

to provide oversight of projects.<br />

Hallie Templeton of Friends of the Earth, a non-governmental<br />

agency (NGO) has attended NOAA public comment panels<br />

around the country and also worries that pushing for corporate<br />

profits will come at the expense of the environment and<br />

fishermen’s livelihoods. Currently, less than 10% of the seafood<br />

SPECIAL ISSUE • MAY <strong>2019</strong> | edible SAN DIEGO 13


GROWING GOOD |<br />

consumed in our country is landed by US fishermen, so fishing<br />

jobs have already been lost to other countries.<br />

With increasing protein sources as a goal, other NGOs recommend<br />

land-based fish pens, but to date operation costs make the<br />

fish too expensive to compete in the marketplace. The abundance<br />

of water necessary to operate is an issue and more than one<br />

land-based seafood operation went under when oxygen levels,<br />

overheating, or water quality issues decimated their stock.<br />

Much has been made of the fact that only big players are<br />

involved in the game. The pro-aquaculture lobby Stronger<br />

America Through Seafood (SATS) has members in every part<br />

of the industry. Their mission is to increase the “US production<br />

of healthful, sustainable, and affordable seafood.” In truth, only<br />

large, well-funded endeavors have a chance to build and operate<br />

fish farms big enough to be commercially viable.<br />

<strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> finfish aquaculture remains a possibility<br />

The United Nations notes that about 8.6 billion people will<br />

call earth home by 2030, indicating a great need for future<br />

sources of protein—and aquaculture could be part of the<br />

solution. The US has the opportunity to create new sources<br />

for seafood or cheap imports will continue to dominate and<br />

further decimate wild fish stocks. Our domestic fishing industry<br />

struggles to compete.<br />

The Port of <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> is developing Blue Tech incubators to<br />

promote aquaculture that is environmentally and economically<br />

sound. They offer planning tools, look at spatial concerns, and<br />

help to identify opportunities. Port program manager Paula<br />

Sylvia helps locate finfish sites around <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>, juggling<br />

regulations that exist in federal and state waters with multiple<br />

agencies such as the Environmental Protection Agency and the<br />

Coastal Zone Management Act and interfacing with NOAA and<br />

the National Ocean Service Centers of Coastal Sciences.<br />

HSWRI and its partners have invested significant resources<br />

and time searching for viable aquaculture sites near <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>.<br />

The pens need to be in water shallow enough with acceptable<br />

currents to tether to the ocean floor. Balancing the interests of<br />

commercial and sport fishermen, the Navy, NGOs, and recreational<br />

and environmental groups has been difficult. Once a<br />

site is agreed upon, the long process of permitting will begin.<br />

Local finfish aquaculture may be years away, but the vision<br />

moves towards reality.<br />

14 ediblesandiego.com


| FEATURE<br />

Tres Generaciones<br />

Three Generations<br />

BY BETH DEMMON<br />

PHOTOS COURTESY JENNIFER PESQUEIRA, EL INDIO<br />

El Indio<br />

3695 India St.<br />

» elindiosandiego.net<br />

M<br />

any generations ago, the Pesqueira family paid<br />

a flat fee of 50 cents to enter Arizona from<br />

Sonora, Mexico.<br />

“Not like it is today,” laughs El Indio president<br />

Jennifer Pesqueira as she shares the story of how<br />

her great-grandparents came to the United States.<br />

The pair moved to Los Angeles, where their family<br />

continued to grow. One of their children, Ralph<br />

Pesqueira, eventually became Ralph Pesqueira Sr.—<br />

and Jennifer’s grandfather and the founder of El<br />

Indio.<br />

“My grandfather started El Indio in August of<br />

1940,” explains Jennifer. “He ran the business up<br />

until he passed away in 1981, and then my dad<br />

[Ralph Pesqueira Jr.] took over.”<br />

Although El Indio has always been in the family,<br />

Jennifer admits she didn’t expect to end up working<br />

there. She’s the only one of her generation at the restaurant,<br />

and even she didn’t officially join the staff<br />

until after college at <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> State University.<br />

Still, some of her earliest memories come straight<br />

from the kitchen.<br />

“About the only thing I learned to do was ask the<br />

people in the kitchen for my little burrito. My dad<br />

would make me say ‘gracias’ to the whole room, and<br />

they’d always giggle at me,” she recalls.<br />

Over the years, El Indio grew to four locations,<br />

but consolidated back to the original space around<br />

1994. Even with these shifts, much remained the<br />

same—especially the recipes brought from Sonora<br />

by the first Pesqueiras.<br />

While El Indio is famous for their taquitos and<br />

their bagged corn tortilla chips at local food retailers,<br />

they’ve added non-fried items to their menu<br />

to meet the demands of health-conscious diners.<br />

Jennifer also mentions recent laws aimed at reducing<br />

plastic and styrofoam waste as bigger financial<br />

hurdles for the small business to absorb, but both<br />

she and her father are confident in their ability to<br />

roll with the necessary changes.<br />

After nearly 40 years at the helm, today Ralph Jr.<br />

enjoys a more relaxed grip on the restaurant. “My<br />

dad’s kind of retired. He just sort of sits back and<br />

makes sure I don’t mess up,” chuckles Jennifer.<br />

SPECIAL ISSUE • MAY <strong>2019</strong> | edible SAN DIEGO 15


FEATURE |<br />

Somos Diversos<br />

We Are Diverse<br />

Sacred Expedition with Captain Gaspar de<br />

Portolá and his party of soldiers going through<br />

Goat Canyon in what is the US-Mexico<br />

border today. Painting by Benjamin Meza<br />

<strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>-Baja Cuisine Has Been<br />

Multiethnic for Two Centuries<br />

BY BARBARA ZARAGOZA<br />

I<br />

n 1821, Mexico declared independence from Spain and Alta<br />

(Upper) California came under the Mexican flag. By then,<br />

a large community of men and women had come from Baja<br />

California and Central Mexico during the late 1700s onwards<br />

and settled in what today constitutes the state of California.<br />

They forged a fiercely autonomous identity, and not wanting<br />

to be known as Españoles or Mexicanos, they began calling<br />

themselves Californios.<br />

The Californios held prominent political offices in towns<br />

throughout Alta California. They also raised cattle, as selling<br />

hides became a lucrative business. Many of the Californios<br />

traced their ancestors back to 1769, when Gaspar de Portolá<br />

trekked from Baja California into <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> with a large party<br />

of soldiers who were of blended ethnicities precisely because<br />

Mexico under Spanish colonialism had been such a vast melting<br />

pot for centuries. The Californios, like those who came<br />

before them, were of mixed backgrounds, including mestizo,<br />

Afro-Latino, Spanish, Portuguese, Amerindian, and even Jewish<br />

heritages.<br />

The Californios had a distinct way of cooking. William<br />

Smythe, the first to write a definitive history of <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>, described<br />

their food as such: "The Californios naturally survived on<br />

a diet of mostly meat. Alongside beef, they enjoyed veal, but did<br />

not eat venison, mutton, or pork. Added to their staple protein<br />

diet, they made tortillas, tamales, and chili con carne. They ate<br />

fish on Fridays and their sugared pastries were highly prized."<br />

PAINTING: BENJAMIN MEZA; PHOTOS: OLIVIA HAYO<br />

16 ediblesandiego.com


| FEATURE<br />

After California became part of the United States in<br />

1850, the Californios began to lose both their political<br />

influence and their land. Many prominent families from<br />

Old Town <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> migrated to the border region<br />

and their descendants continued living in towns on the<br />

American side, such as <strong>San</strong> Ysidro, and owned small<br />

cattle ranches outside Tijuana. While their prominence<br />

waned, their cuisine experienced a renaissance thanks to<br />

a native-born Virginian named Bertha Haffner-Ginger<br />

who came to Southern California and published the first<br />

known book of Californios cuisine, appropriately titled<br />

California Mexican-Spanish Cookbook.<br />

Her cookbook included recipes for salads, soups,<br />

tamales, omelets, and beans, among others, and she<br />

explained the early distinction of Mexican cuisine in her<br />

introduction: "It is not generally known that Spanish<br />

dishes as they are known in California are really Mexican<br />

Indian dishes. Bread made of corn, sauces of chile peppers,<br />

jerked beef, tortillas, enchiladas, etc., are unknown<br />

in Spain as native foods; though the majority of Spanish<br />

people in California are as devoted to peppery dishes<br />

as the Mexicans themselves, and as the Mexicans speak<br />

Spanish, the foods are commonly called Spanish dishes."<br />

Today, the influence of the Californios persists in the<br />

<strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>-Baja region. Their blend of Mexican, Indian,<br />

and Spanish foods became part of the border culture,<br />

with tamales eaten during Christmas and enchiladas<br />

eaten all year round. In keeping with the multiethnic<br />

heritage of the Californios, the continued growth of<br />

diversity in this area also enriches the culinary terrain.<br />

The Chinese began to settle in Baja California during<br />

the 1800s and to this day tout their signature shark fin<br />

soup at many restaurants. Jewish communities in Chula<br />

Vista, Bonita, and Tijuana remain kosher, refraining<br />

from pork as has been their tradition for thousands of<br />

years and mirroring the diet of early pioneers to Alta<br />

California. The Filipino community has made its mark<br />

in National City where a bust of Filipino nationalist<br />

icon Jose Rizal stands in front of Seafood City, a market<br />

that offers traditional Filipino delights including<br />

lumpia and pancit. Individuals from these communities<br />

have sometimes intermarried, their children tracing<br />

their descendants to ever more diverse heritages. The<br />

children of Filipino and Mexican parents, for example,<br />

identify as Mexipino and continue to shape <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>-<br />

Baja cuisine through new culinary traditions such as<br />

adding longaniza sausage to Mexican scrambled eggs<br />

with chile.<br />

As everywhere, so too in the border region the adage<br />

remains true: We eat our culture. Old and new at once,<br />

these food traditions represent 200 years of the ever-changing<br />

multiethnic heritage of the <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>-Baja region.<br />

SPECIAL ISSUE • MAY <strong>2019</strong> | edible SAN DIEGO 17


FEATURE |<br />

A Modern<br />

Infusion<br />

of Indigenous<br />

Ingredients<br />

BY FELICIA CAMPBELL<br />

Chefs Mario Peralta and Juan Cabrera come from two different<br />

worlds but were united by a mission to preserve the indigenous ingredients<br />

of Mexico’s past through seasonal, modern dishes that point to<br />

an exciting and sustainable future.<br />

J<br />

uan Cabrera was born in Mexico City and earned his<br />

cooking chops at the world-renowned Pujol restaurant in<br />

the capital, while Mario Peralta, a native of Tijuana, worked up<br />

north under award-winning chef Javier Plascencia at Misión 19<br />

and at Fuego Cocina del Valle in Valle de Guadalupe. The pair<br />

met in 2017 on the second season of Top Chef Mexico. A year<br />

later, in July 2018, they opened Los Compas in Tijuana. The<br />

restaurant’s name loosely translates to “buddies” or “compadres,”<br />

but as they explained, it implies a mission-oriented connection<br />

closer than friendship. Their bond was forged over a shared passion<br />

for celebrating traditional Mexican cuisine and elevating<br />

indigenous ingredients.<br />

At their small, stylish restaurant, heirloom corn varieties are<br />

nixtamalized each day and ground for use in everything from<br />

tortillas to dessert tamales, which retain the corn’s vibrant pink<br />

and blue hues even after being cooked. Though corn has been<br />

cultivated in Mexico for over 10,000 years —with an amazing<br />

diversity of regional variations—this essential ingredient is<br />

in danger of being lost to a monocrop of industrialized yellow<br />

corn. According to Rafael Mier, the founder of the Fundación de<br />

Tortilla Maíz Mexicana, at least 59 varieties of native corn are on<br />

OLIVIA HAYO<br />

18 ediblesandiego.com


| FEATURE<br />

FELICIA CAMPBELL; OLIVIA HAYO; COURTESY LOS COMPAS<br />

The restaurant has a full bar<br />

menu of cocktails, wine, and beer<br />

with plans to offer a selection of<br />

craft beers made in collaboration<br />

with local brewers.<br />

the verge of extinction. The reintroduction of heritage corn varieties<br />

by innovative restaurateurs and chefs, like Peralta and Cabrera, is a<br />

vital part of efforts to raise awareness and promote farming of this<br />

indigenous crop.<br />

At Los Compas, marlin tlacoyos (pre-Hispanic masa ovals, thicker<br />

than a tortilla) are made using pink heirloom corn and come topped<br />

with locally caught marlin, house-pickled güeros chiles, and wedges<br />

of avocado. Tostadas de ceviche verde (green ceviche tostadas) feature<br />

a citrus marinated local catch served on crisp tostadas alongside<br />

smoked cauliflower and draped in a cilantro pesto.<br />

I<br />

n addition to their focus on corn, many of the menu items are<br />

built around seasonal ingredients that reflect the pair’s close<br />

relationship with local farmers. The romanesco asado dish stars<br />

grilled romanesco and mustard greens from Wulf Ruiz’s Cengrow<br />

Organic Farm near Ensenada. The tender, smoky vegetable is<br />

served over what they describe as a <strong>May</strong>an romesco sauce made<br />

with roasted onions, chiles, garlic, and toasted sunflower seeds.<br />

This, and pretty much everything on the menu, benefits from a<br />

drizzle of earthy housemade hot sauce made from chile de arbol,<br />

peanuts, garlic, and dried shrimp heads still bobbing in the spiced<br />

oil and emparting their salty complexity.<br />

Other dishes take inspiration from international influences<br />

that have informed the borderland cuisine of Baja Norte. There<br />

is a prevalence of Chinese food in Mexico thanks to several waves<br />

of Chinese immigration that began in the late 19th century, and<br />

Peralta explained that when he was growing up, Chinese was his<br />

family’s special occasion treat. At Los Compas, such flavors are<br />

incorporated into the taco Chino (Chinese taco), which features a<br />

slightly sweet, Chinese-style sausage, a smear of hoisin sauce and<br />

fresh pickled vegetables served in a silky corn tortilla. Carnitas de<br />

papada de cerdo (pork jowl with kimchi Mexa) features a luscious<br />

fried pork jowl served over a bed of finely shaved, house-pickled<br />

vegetables inspired by the increasingly popular Korean kimchi<br />

variations served at gastro parks around Tijuana.<br />

The playful surprises and pitch-perfect execution continue through<br />

the dessert menu, which features the likes of creamy-as-cheesecake<br />

guava flan and an inventive pan caramelo cornbread bread pudding<br />

topped with white chocolate, cornflake praline, and vanilla ice cream.<br />

Far from a traditional menu, the dishes at Los Compas are a vibrant<br />

celebration of sophisticated, modern Mexican cuisine that is informed<br />

by deep heritage and history, without being limited by it. This<br />

approach makes it one of the most exciting places to taste the terroir<br />

of the region’s past while experiencing a glimpse of its future.<br />

Boulevard Agua Caliente 10594, Aviacion, 22014 Tijuana, BC<br />

» loscompastj.com<br />

NOTES ON GETTING THERE: You’ll need your passport. The restaurant is<br />

a 30-minute drive from downtown <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> and crossing into Mexico is<br />

simple. Getting back to the city can take longer‚ over an hour during peak<br />

traffic. Alternatively, park behind H&M at Las Americas Premium Outlets and<br />

take a 10-minute well-lit walk to the border crossing pedestrian bridge. Use a<br />

ridesharing app like Uber or Lyft for a 10 to 15 minute drive to the restaurant.<br />

SPECIAL ISSUE • MAY <strong>2019</strong> | edible SAN DIEGO 19


• Best Italian<br />

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20 ediblesandiego.com


| FEATURE<br />

CENA CON<br />

BY MARIA HESSE<br />

I<br />

f you’ve lived in <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> long enough, you may have learned that there’s more than tacos at the<br />

heart of regional Mexican cuisine. Ask around and you’ll hear warm childhood stories depicting a<br />

mother’s various renditions of sopa de fideo and quesadillas, sometimes served twice a day. Others will say<br />

it was the first bite of a California burrito that led to a secret guacamole recipe reserved for special occassions.<br />

In this age of modern conveniences, it’s also about knowing which friends keep a fresh tub of La<br />

Salsa Chilena and a bag of El Indio tortilla chips regularly stocked. These are the foods and experiences<br />

we share with our loved ones, embedded deep within our core, a single bite transporting us back, flavors<br />

manifest memories rich with emotion. Cena con mi familia is Spanish for “dinner with my family.” Here<br />

we share the memories and recipes of cherished dishes from three <strong>Edible</strong> <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> readers, their stories<br />

represent a broader picture—that love for delicious foods connects us all.<br />

Edgar Chong (page 24)<br />

sits in grandmother Irma’s<br />

lap, along with greatgrandmother<br />

Antonia,<br />

great-great-grandmother<br />

Maria, and other family<br />

members in Guadalajara<br />

enjoying tacos.<br />

PHOTO COURTESY EDGAR CHONG<br />

MI FAMILIA<br />

SPECIAL ISSUE • MAY <strong>2019</strong> | edible SAN DIEGO 21


FEATURE |<br />

or a paper towel. Set aside.<br />

Peel and roughly dice potatoes<br />

to 1-inch cubes and boil<br />

in lightly salted water until<br />

tender, about 15 to 20 minutes;<br />

drain potatoes and place<br />

in a large bowl.<br />

(Tip: Save the potato water<br />

for wild yeast sourdough<br />

bread.)<br />

Add goat cheese, salt, pepper,<br />

and cumin to the potatoes<br />

and mash with a potato<br />

masher.<br />

In a separate bowl, whip egg<br />

whites and cream of tartar<br />

with an electric hand mixer<br />

until stiff peaks form, about 4<br />

to 5 minutes.<br />

Preheat oven to 350°.<br />

To prepare peppers, first slice<br />

one side of the pepper to<br />

open, making sure to keep the<br />

stem intact.<br />

MY FAMILY HAS A HOME IN<br />

Baja California Sur. When I<br />

visit, we adventure around<br />

the area and try different<br />

restaurants, then I try to<br />

recreate the dishes I liked<br />

at home. While dining at<br />

Cielito Lindo in Cardinal, the<br />

restaurant owner invited me<br />

into the kitchen to learn to<br />

cook my favorite version of<br />

Chiles Rellenos de Cardinal.<br />

Chiles Rellenos<br />

de Cardinal<br />

SERVES 6<br />

BASIC RED SAUCE<br />

3–4 tablespoons olive oil<br />

1 small onion, diced<br />

2 cloves garlic, chopped<br />

¼ cup beer or dry white wine<br />

SUZE MCCLELLAN<br />

Ojai and Baja<br />

1 15.4-ounce can tomato sauce<br />

1 cup water<br />

Salt and pepper to taste<br />

1–2 tablespoons butter<br />

(optional)<br />

CHILES RELLENOS<br />

6 poblano peppers<br />

3 large potatoes<br />

10½ ounces goat cheese<br />

1 teaspoon salt<br />

1 teaspoon pepper<br />

1 teaspoon cumin seeds,<br />

crushed<br />

5–6 large egg whites<br />

¼ teaspoon cream of tartar<br />

1 cup all-purpose flour<br />

Peanut oil<br />

¾ cup–1 cup grated cheese<br />

In a medium frying pan, over<br />

medium heat, sauté olive oil,<br />

onion and garlic for 3 to 5 minutes,<br />

stirring occasionally until<br />

onions are translucent. Add<br />

beer or dry white wine and<br />

bring to a simmer for 30 seconds<br />

to burn off the alcohol.<br />

Stir in tomato sauce and water,<br />

return to a boil; lower heat and<br />

simmer for about 30 minutes.<br />

Season to taste and I like to<br />

add butter to finish the sauce.<br />

Char peppers by placing them<br />

over an open flame, dry roasting,<br />

or broiling them. Turn<br />

often to blacken skin evenly,<br />

about 10 minutes. Allow the<br />

peppers to rest until they are<br />

cool enough to handle, 3 to 5<br />

minutes. Place peppers in a<br />

large plastic bag and seal it to<br />

sweat off skins, about 10 minutes.<br />

Most of the charred skin<br />

should fall off easily, but rub<br />

off any excess with your hands<br />

Stuff the pepper with a small<br />

handful of the potato mixture,<br />

just enough to fill the inside<br />

of the pepper.<br />

Lightly dredge the pepper in<br />

flour, shaking off excess. With<br />

your hands, cover the pepper<br />

with the egg white mixture.<br />

Repeat with remaining peppers.<br />

Heat 1” oil in a medium frying<br />

pan over medium-high heat.<br />

Carefully place 1 or 2 peppers<br />

in the oil and fry until you see<br />

a beautiful golden brown color<br />

around the edges, about 1 minute;<br />

gently turn peppers with<br />

tongs and brown the other side.<br />

Place on a paper towel-lined<br />

plate and fry remaining peppers.<br />

Cover the bottom of an ovenproof<br />

casserole dish with a bit<br />

of red sauce. Place peppers<br />

in casserole dish, cover with<br />

more red sauce, and top with<br />

grated cheese.<br />

Bake in the oven until sauce is<br />

sizzling and cheese is melted,<br />

about 25 minutes.<br />

22 ediblesandiego.com


| FEATURE<br />

SANDRA BELCHER<br />

Valley Center<br />

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: PHOTO COURTESY SANDRA BELCHER (2); THE MARMOT ON FLICKR<br />

AS A CHILD I LOVED THE<br />

warm comfort of the Mexican<br />

bread pudding called<br />

capirotada. This love came<br />

before I knew what salty and<br />

savory meant and before I<br />

knew cheese and dried fruits<br />

paired so well. It was sweet and<br />

a little salty and I loved it.<br />

As a teen, I finally watched<br />

my grandma make it and was<br />

taken aback by everything that<br />

went into it (and, quite frankly,<br />

maybe even a little grossed<br />

out?). She started with a layer<br />

of tortillas, then added queso,<br />

nuts, and pieces of crusty<br />

bolillo soaked in butter or lard<br />

mixed with brown sugar and<br />

cinnamon. She threw in some<br />

raisins and topped everything<br />

with another layer of tortillas<br />

to keep it moist —all this and I<br />

never saw measuring spoons!<br />

Now, as an adult, it’s comfort<br />

food—yet it’s also something<br />

else. Slightly salty from the<br />

nuts, with sweet cinnamon<br />

syrup and rich, creamy cheese,<br />

it’s everything sophisticated.<br />

Capirotada<br />

SERVES 8<br />

3 cups water<br />

3 cinnamon sticks<br />

6 whole cloves<br />

2 cups dark brown sugar<br />

6 corn tortillas<br />

4 stale bolillo rolls or French<br />

bread, sliced into about 20<br />

slices (for layering)<br />

6 tablespoons lard or butter,<br />

divided by tablespoon<br />

1 cup raisins<br />

1 cup chopped nuts (almonds<br />

or your choice)<br />

1 cup queso Oaxaca or<br />

Monterey Jack cheese cut<br />

into small cubes<br />

½ cup sweetened shredded<br />

coconut<br />

(Tip: I buy bolillo bread already<br />

bagged, sliced, and toasted<br />

in Mexican markets. But you<br />

can toast bread if it’s not stale<br />

enough. You want the bread to<br />

be hard. Capirotada is typically<br />

a Lenten food so the bread is<br />

easily available around Easter.)<br />

Preheat oven to 350°.<br />

Make a syrup by bringing<br />

water, cinnamon sticks,<br />

cloves, and sugar to a boil in<br />

a small saucepan over high<br />

heat. Reduce heat to medium<br />

and simmer for 10 minutes.<br />

Remove cinnamon sticks and<br />

cloves and set syrup aside to<br />

cool slightly.<br />

In an 8-inch round pan, rub 2<br />

tablespoons lard or butter to<br />

coat the bottom and sides of<br />

the pan and line with 4 of the<br />

corn tortillas.<br />

Dip sliced bread in syrup mixture<br />

and begin to layer in the<br />

pan over tortillas, sprinkling<br />

¹/ ³ each of the lard or butter,<br />

raisins, nuts, cheese, and<br />

coconut over the bread.<br />

Repeat for 2 more layers<br />

and drizzle with any remaining<br />

syrup. Top with 2 tortillas<br />

rubbed with butter to keep<br />

moist while baking. Bake until<br />

tortillas on top are crisp and<br />

capirotada is moist in the<br />

center, about 30 minutes.<br />

SPECIAL ISSUE • MAY <strong>2019</strong> | edible SAN DIEGO 23


FEATURE |<br />

EDGAR CHONG<br />

Little Italy<br />

I GREW UP WITH MY<br />

grandmother in Torreón,<br />

Coahuila, Mexico, where I had<br />

the most humble and delicious<br />

meals of my life. One particular<br />

taco that my grandmother<br />

made for me is called Tacos a<br />

La Malinche. I’d help get all the<br />

ingredients ready for her to cook,<br />

like getting the hen from our<br />

backyard, going to the tortilleria<br />

for a kilo of freshly made tortillas<br />

for 5 pesos, and asking Doña<br />

Chachina for permission to pick<br />

avocados for guacamole from<br />

her backyard tree.<br />

The tortillas are heated directly<br />

on the fire for a unique smoky<br />

burnt tortilla flavor. The chicken is<br />

slowly braised with fresh herbs<br />

and hoja santa, then served<br />

on a bed of guacamole, and<br />

garnished with crispy chicken<br />

skin chicharrones and homemade<br />

crema de rancho (sour cream).<br />

My grandma still makes this<br />

meal for me on my birthday<br />

every year, and I think it’s an<br />

example of family traditions and<br />

embodies how Mexican cuisines<br />

are represented. It’s all about the<br />

remembrance of childhood and<br />

the love of family that was put<br />

into making a simple taco. This<br />

will be a memory that’s in my<br />

head every day of my life.<br />

Tacos a La Malinche<br />

SERVES 4<br />

CHICKEN FILLING<br />

4 quarts water<br />

3 tablespoons salt<br />

1 teaspoon fresh oregano<br />

1 teaspoon fresh thyme<br />

1 leaf hoja santa<br />

1 teaspoon fresh rosemary<br />

1 pound boneless, skinless<br />

chicken breast<br />

CRISPY CHICKEN SKIN<br />

CHICHARRONES<br />

2 sides of chicken breast skin<br />

2 cups kosher salt<br />

4 quarts canola oil<br />

GUACAMOLE<br />

2 avocados<br />

½ serrano chile, minced<br />

½ lime<br />

1 teaspoon salt<br />

CREMA DE RANCHO<br />

1 pint heavy cream<br />

½ cup buttermilk<br />

4 teaspoons lime juice<br />

1 teaspoon salt<br />

FOR SERVING<br />

White corn tortillas<br />

Microgreens<br />

Make the chicken: Bring water<br />

and salt to a boil in a large pot;<br />

lower the heat to medium and<br />

add the herbs. Simmer for 3<br />

minutes, then add the chicken.<br />

Cook chicken on low until it<br />

will shred easily, about 30<br />

minutes. Remove chicken from<br />

the pot and finely shred.<br />

Make the chicharrones: Place<br />

chicken skin on a sheet pan<br />

and cover completely with<br />

salt; remove excess. Air dry<br />

for 2 days. In a large cast iron<br />

Dutch oven, heat oil to 350°<br />

and deep fry chicken skin for<br />

45 seconds. Drain on a paper<br />

towel lined plate.<br />

Make the guacamole: Smash<br />

pitted avocados with serrano, a<br />

squeeze of lime juice, and salt<br />

until well incorporated.<br />

Make the crema de rancho: In<br />

a mixing bowl, bring heavy<br />

cream to room temperature<br />

and stir in buttermilk. Cover<br />

the bowl with cheesecloth and<br />

let it sit overnight. Mix in lime<br />

and salt to serve.<br />

Assemble tacos by reheating<br />

tortillas on an open flame. Add<br />

guacamole, top with shredded<br />

chicken and drizzle with<br />

crema de rancho. Garnish with<br />

microgreens and chicken skin<br />

chicharrones.<br />

Now the executive chef at<br />

Puesto at the Headquarters,<br />

Chong plans to offer<br />

this taco on the menu. Below:<br />

Edgar with his grandfather at the<br />

mango fields in Jalisco.<br />

PHOTO COURTESY EDGAR CHONG<br />

24 ediblesandiego.com


SPECIAL ISSUE • MAY <strong>2019</strong> | edible SAN DIEGO 25


STAYCATION |<br />

A Luxurious<br />

Day Trip to<br />

Tecate Beckons<br />

BY DEBRA BASS<br />

I<br />

f you’ve ever had any trepidation about crossing the border,<br />

this might be the perfect local excursion for those who want<br />

to be spoiled. Rancho La Puerta is located in Tecate about<br />

an hour east of the Otay border. The spa and health-centered<br />

resort renowned for its luxurious weeklong accommodations<br />

offers single-day excursions on select Saturdays of every month.<br />

The day trip includes a 50-minute classic massage, fitness<br />

classes, free time to get in touch with nature or relax by the<br />

pool, healthy morning snacks, Mediterranean lunch, a tour of<br />

the organic garden, and a cooking demonstration and buffet at<br />

La Cocina Que Canta. Round trip transportation to and from<br />

<strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> is included for $345.<br />

My day started with a 7:30am bus ride from the Mission Bay<br />

Visitors Center, and within two hours I found myself seated on<br />

the second floor of a rustic dining hall nibbling on a breakfast<br />

snack buffet of breads and muffins (with and without gluten or<br />

dairy), seasonal fruits, and freshly squeezed juices.<br />

I indicated my food preferences as non-dairy and pescatarian,<br />

and servers and supervisors attentively directed me to the most<br />

suitable choices on the buffet line before I even had to ask. Ingredients<br />

and preparations were readily communicated at every<br />

meal, making it clear that dietary restrictions are addressed with<br />

genuine concern.<br />

We split into groups for a tour of the grounds after breakfast.<br />

It seemed a bit overwhelming and sprawling at first, but once I<br />

learned to make the loop I realized the property is a series of circuitous<br />

paths that make getting lost nearly impossible. Rancho La<br />

Puerta is designed with accidental exercise in mind and the amenities<br />

are purposely sprinkled throughout to incentivize wandering.<br />

Following the morning tour, the itinerary in my welcome<br />

packet described a schedule of fitness classes ranging from<br />

intense core workouts to gentle meditation. I selected the abs<br />

class, followed by yoga—and then it was already time for the<br />

Mediterranean lunch buffet. The maître d' recognized me from<br />

breakfast and guided me to accommodating dishes. I ended up<br />

with a plateful of salads and vegetables that included a blend<br />

of roasted eggplant, bell peppers, carrots, zucchini, snap peas,<br />

tomatoes, and sweet potato, plus a side salad topped with spicy<br />

garbanzo beans.<br />

There was just enough time after lunch for a massage and nap<br />

under a blanket in a quiet lounge area, so I decided to skip the<br />

two-mile hike up Alex’s Oak Trail.<br />

At 3pm we were whisked off to the resort’s culinary center,<br />

La Cocina Que Canta, which translates to “The Kitchen That<br />

Sings.” It was named after the delightful bird songs from the<br />

property’s morning visitors.<br />

We toured the six-acre organic farm attached to the culinary<br />

center and cooking school and got a lesson in devotion.<br />

The farm uses no commercial or animal fertilizers, and we<br />

were introduced to an abundance of happy worms working<br />

through compost. Chef Denise Roa, who has been with the<br />

ranch for eight years, said that the worms are just one of the<br />

many things that make the soil so fertile and the produce so<br />

unparalleled.<br />

26 ediblesandiego.com


| STAYCATION<br />

PHOTOS COURTESY RANCHO LA PUERTA<br />

As we sauntered through the farm rows, she encouraged us<br />

to bend down and snap off tiny stalks of broccoli and leaves of<br />

different varieties of arugula, spinach, and mustard greens. We<br />

stopped often to sample and almost everyone smiled in surprise<br />

at the pleasant flavors of the raw leafy bits. The arugula was<br />

spicy and the broccoli sweet. The real selling point was when<br />

Roa tugged up a bulb of celery and passed around pieces of it.<br />

It was vaguely peppery, earthy, and faintly sweet; certainly not<br />

your typically bland, crunchy stick used as a delivery system for<br />

something with actual flavor. This was celery you could snack<br />

on cheerfully, even if you weren’t on some torturous diet.<br />

The evening meal was made largely from the garden and included<br />

Moroccan sweet potato lentil stew, citrus-marinated kale<br />

with apple and pepitas, arugula salad with quinoa and avocado,<br />

and roasted shrimp and turnips served on cedar planks with<br />

lemon-cilantro chimichurri.<br />

Dessert was a chocolate coconut ginger mousse. We all agreed<br />

that the cups for this heavenly concoction were much too<br />

small—and like the day—ran out too quickly.<br />

»rancholapuerta.com<br />

SPECIAL ISSUE • MAY <strong>2019</strong> | edible SAN DIEGO 27


LOCAL ATTRACTIONS |<br />

BY ERIN JACKSON<br />

Check This Out<br />

TASTE VENTURE TOURS<br />

As founder of Taste Venture Tours, Dominique<br />

Cancio guides curious explorers to<br />

Barrio Logan to experience the neighborhood’s<br />

unique culinary offerings and learn about its history<br />

and culture.<br />

“I want people to have real conversations—<br />

and the best way I know how to do that is over<br />

food,” says Cancio.<br />

Tours typically depart from Iron Fist Brewing<br />

Co. and include a guided stroll to view the<br />

Chicano Park murals, a behind-the-scenes look<br />

at Thorn Brewery with tacos from Chicano Soul<br />

Food, and a taste of something sweet before a<br />

final stop at Border X for loteria or Latin jazz<br />

night. From start to finish, the experience typically<br />

lasts three to four hours.<br />

Cancio is expanding the company’s offerings<br />

to include daytime Barrio Logan tours and crossborder<br />

excursions to Tijuana and Ensenada.<br />

» tasteventuretours.com<br />

Events<br />

MAY<br />

Gator By The Bay returns with classic<br />

New Orleans cuisine, live music, and<br />

bon temps from <strong>May</strong> 9–12.<br />

» gatorbythebay.com<br />

Join executive chef Jeff Jackson and<br />

Matt Gordon (of Urban Solace) for Playing<br />

With Fire, a wood-fired dinner at<br />

The Grill at Torrey Pines on <strong>May</strong> 6.<br />

» lodgetorreypines.com<br />

AVANT’s culinary team will teach you how<br />

to make a delicious dinner that’s light on<br />

calories and rich in flavor at the AVANT<br />

School of Cooking on <strong>May</strong> 8.<br />

» ranchobernardoinn.com<br />

Journey to Wild Willow Farm for a<br />

South Bay Culinary Tour featuring a<br />

coffee demo, farm-to-table lunch, and<br />

wine tasting on <strong>May</strong> 25.<br />

» epicureansandiego.com<br />

JUNE<br />

The Seedling Soirée is the Olivewood<br />

Gardens & Learning Center’s<br />

annual fundraiser that showcases the<br />

season’s bounty with garden-inspired<br />

cocktails and a chef’s culinary feast on<br />

June 1.<br />

» olivewoodgarden.org<br />

Taste of Little Italy returns with<br />

tasty bites and beverages on a<br />

self-guided tour through one of <strong>San</strong><br />

<strong>Diego</strong>’s most vibrant dining neighborhoods<br />

on June 19.<br />

» littleitalysd.com<br />

Go behind the scenes on a Beer<br />

Geek Tour that starts at White Labs,<br />

followed by lunch at Brothers Provisions<br />

and a tour at Societe Brewing<br />

Company. The info-packed beer experience<br />

takes place on June 29.<br />

» epicureansandiego.com<br />

Find more events online at ediblesandiego.com/event-list.<br />

a comfortable, affordable healthy home awaits you<br />

EcoArtisan Builders<br />

Healthy Homes, Consciously Crafted<br />

Mark Letizia<br />

ecoartisan@mac.com<br />

license 882970<br />

www.ecoartisan.builders<br />

858.569.0415 phone<br />

Gelato, Coffee & Panini<br />

Housemade<br />

Small Batch Gelato<br />

escogelato.com<br />

Downtown Escondido<br />

Featuring local produce from our community.<br />

28 ediblesandiego.com


| LOCAL ATTRACTIONS<br />

BY THEODORE R. NIEKRAS<br />

In Season<br />

FORAGING IN MAY AND JUNE<br />

Although our spring showers have already<br />

come and gone, that old adage about <strong>May</strong> flowers<br />

still stands, especially this year. Hike any<br />

ditch or crevasse and find greens like dandelion,<br />

sow thistle, purslane, wood sorrel, wild fennel,<br />

mallow, wild mustard, and watercress.<br />

Sow thistle, dandelion’s close cousin, is one<br />

of my favorites. Everything from root to shoot<br />

can be eaten on this plant and similar ones, but<br />

watch out for the central stalk that tends to have<br />

small thorns. Kumquat stands out as a citrus<br />

that’ll be plentifully available. Burdock should be<br />

prime for its artichoke-flavored stalk and root.<br />

Last but not least, forage for the common garden<br />

snail in the evening. This snail was reportedly<br />

introduced to California during the Gold Rush<br />

by a Frenchman who dearly missed his escargot.<br />

Disclaimer: When foraging for food, anything<br />

collected should be properly identified and prepared<br />

before consuming.<br />

Step intowonder...<br />

... and explore an endless array of fitness classes and the<br />

beauty of a sacred mountain. Fill up with fresh air and<br />

sun-kissed fare grown on our organic farm. Rancho La<br />

Puerta marries simplicity with splendor. We don’t just<br />

renew minds and bodies. We tend carefully to your soul.<br />

Destination Wellness Resort & Spa<br />

877-440-7778 • RANCHOLAPUERTA.COM<br />

SPECIAL ISSUE • MAY <strong>2019</strong> | edible SAN DIEGO 29


SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION<br />

Neighborhood Dining Guide<br />

These restaurants are either locally owned, passionate about local sourcing, or both. Enjoy a delicious meal<br />

and make sure to tell them that <strong>Edible</strong> <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> sent you!<br />

NORTH COUNTY<br />

MISSION BEACH<br />

POINT LOMA<br />

A.R. VALENTIEN<br />

11480 North Torrey Pines Rd., La Jolla<br />

858-453-4420 • lodgetorreypines.com/ar-valentien<br />

The Torrey Pines Lodge’s signature restaurant,<br />

A.R. Valentien, highlights regional <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong><br />

cuisine served in an elegant, timbered indooroutdoor<br />

dining room overlooking the 18th hole<br />

of Torrey Pines Golf Course. Executive chef Jeff<br />

Jackson sources only the best local provisions,<br />

and the menu changes frequently based on<br />

seasonal fare available. The restaurant takes<br />

its name from a talented early-20th-century<br />

California artist whose works are exhibited<br />

throughout the restaurant.<br />

ESCOGELATO<br />

122 South Kalmia St., Escondido<br />

760-745-6500 • escogelato.com<br />

Located in the heart of Escondido, EscoGelato is<br />

made fresh daily using the highest quality ingredients<br />

and fresh fruit sourced from local farmers.<br />

The result is a luscious, super-creamy gelato that’s<br />

full of flavor. You will taste the difference. In addition<br />

to the main event, enjoy a nice selection of<br />

paninis, soups, salads, coffee, and tea.<br />

JUICE WAVE<br />

3733 Mission Blvd., Mission Beach<br />

858-488-0800 • juicewavesd.com<br />

What began as <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>’s first organic juice truck now has<br />

two happy homes in Miramar and Mission Beach. Still, their<br />

commitment rings true: “Refresh and nourish the soul by<br />

using the best quality farm-fresh ingredients from local farms<br />

that reflect the radiant growing season in Southern California.”<br />

Check out their creatively named cleanses, like Lettuce<br />

Love, Turnip The Beet, and Kalefornia.<br />

OCEANA COASTAL KITCHEN<br />

3999 Mission Blvd., <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong><br />

858-539-8635 • catamaranresort.com/dining-entertainment/<br />

oceana-san-diego-restaurant<br />

Oceana Coastal Kitchen features chef-driven California cuisine<br />

and a modern, ocean-inspired design. Oceana offers bayfront<br />

dining at an iconic Pacific Beach hideaway. Executive<br />

chef Steven Riemer’s playful interpretations of classic dishes<br />

highlight the purity and flavors of California local produce<br />

and a commitment to sustainable ingredients. A cold bar with<br />

sushi options, small bites, and main dishes includes the freshest<br />

seafood available from the coast of Baja and the Pacific.<br />

SOLARE<br />

2820 Roosevelt Rd., <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong><br />

619-270-9670 • solarelounge.com<br />

Solare is an authentic Italian restaurant with a special<br />

focus on southern Italy and Sicily featuring a menu made<br />

with fresh ingredients selected daily. Blending modern<br />

and traditional tastes, the results are light and healthy<br />

dishes brimming with natural flavors. Complement your<br />

meal with one of 2,000 bottles of wine from the cellar or<br />

30 wines by the glass. Solare is committed to serving the<br />

cuisine of today, created with all the love and attention to<br />

detail from generations past.<br />

DOWNTOWN / LITTLE ITALY<br />

BIVOUAC CIDERWORKS<br />

3986 30th St., <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong><br />

619-725-0844 • bivouaccider.com<br />

As a center for experimentation and<br />

camaraderie, Bivouac Ciderworks<br />

is a welcome home for active, creative,<br />

and outdoorsy cider and food<br />

enthusiasts alike. Their goal is to inspire curiosity and<br />

foster a passion for what craft cider brings to the table.<br />

The outdoor-inspired tasting room, right in the heart of<br />

North Park, features a full menu of food options. Don’t<br />

miss the Impossible Burger, award-winning tuna poke,<br />

and vegan jackfruit sliders.<br />

PHOTO COURTESY SUZANNE SCHAFFNER ESCOGELATO<br />

30 ediblesandiego.com


Farmers’ Markets<br />

Monday<br />

Escondido—Welk Resort †<br />

8860 Lawrence Welk Dr.<br />

3–7pm, year-round<br />

760-651-3630<br />

Tuesday<br />

Coronado<br />

1st St. & B Ave., Ferry Landing<br />

2:30–6pm<br />

760-741-3763<br />

Escondido *<br />

262 East Grand Ave.<br />

2:30–7pm (2:30–6pm Oct to <strong>May</strong>)<br />

760-480-4101<br />

Mira Mesa *<br />

10510 Reagan Rd.<br />

2:30–7pm (3–6pm fall-winter)<br />

858-272-7054<br />

Otay Ranch—Chula Vista<br />

2015 Birch Rd. and Eastlake Blvd.<br />

4–8pm (3–7pm winter)<br />

619-279-0032<br />

Pacific Beach Tuesday †<br />

Bayard & Garnet<br />

2–7:30pm (2–7pm fall-winter)<br />

619-233-3901<br />

People’s Produce Night Market<br />

5010 Market St.<br />

5–8pm<br />

619-813-9148<br />

<strong>San</strong> Marcos NEW!<br />

1035 La Bonita Dr.<br />

3–7pm<br />

858-272-7054<br />

UCSD Town Square<br />

UCSD Campus, Town Square<br />

10am–2pm, Sept to June<br />

858-534-4248<br />

Vail Headquarters *<br />

32115 Temecula Pkwy.<br />

9am–1pm<br />

760-728-7343<br />

Wednesday<br />

Little Italy Wednesday *†<br />

501 W. Date St.<br />

9am–1pm<br />

619-233-5009<br />

Ocean Beach<br />

4900 block of Newport Ave.<br />

4–8pm (4–7pm winter)<br />

619-279-0032<br />

State Street in Carlsbad Village<br />

State St. & Carlsbad Village Dr.<br />

3–7pm (3–6pm fall-winter)<br />

858-272-7054<br />

Temecula—Promenade *<br />

40820 Winchester Rd. by Macy’s<br />

9am–1pm<br />

760-728-7343<br />

Thursday<br />

Lemon Grove<br />

2885 Lemon Grove Ave.<br />

3–7pm<br />

619-813-9148<br />

Linda Vista *†<br />

6939 Linda Vista Rd.<br />

3–7pm (2–6pm winter)<br />

760-504-4363<br />

North Park Thursday *†<br />

2900 North Park Way<br />

3–7:30pm<br />

619-550-7180<br />

Oceanside Morning *<br />

Pier View Way & Coast Hwy. 101<br />

9am–1pm<br />

760-791-3241<br />

Rancho Bernardo<br />

16535 Via Esprillo<br />

11am–2pm<br />

619-279-0032<br />

SDSU<br />

Campanile Walkway btwn Hepner Hall<br />

& Love Library<br />

10am–3pm, Sept to June<br />

www.clube3.org<br />

Horton Plaza Lunch Market<br />

199 Horton Plaza<br />

11am–2pm<br />

619-481-4959<br />

Valley Center<br />

28246 Lilac Rd.<br />

3–7pm (2–6pm, Nov to Mar)<br />

vccountryfarmersmarket@gmail.com<br />

Friday<br />

Borrego Springs<br />

700 Palm Canyon Dr.<br />

7am–noon, Oct to <strong>May</strong><br />

760-767-5555<br />

Horton Plaza Lunch Market<br />

225 Broadway Circle<br />

11am–2pm<br />

619-795-3363<br />

Imperial Beach *†<br />

10 Evergreen Ave.<br />

2–7pm, (2–6pm winter)<br />

info@imperialbeachfarmersmarket.org<br />

La Mesa Village *<br />

La Mesa Blvd. btwn Palm & Allison<br />

3–7pm, year-round<br />

619-795-3363<br />

Mission Valley *†<br />

Civita Park<br />

7960 Civita Blvd.<br />

3–7pm, Apr to Jan<br />

760-504-4363<br />

Bernardo Winery<br />

13330 Paseo del Verano Norte<br />

9am–1pm<br />

760-500-1709<br />

Saturday<br />

City Heights *†!<br />

Wightman St. btwn Fairmount & 43rd<br />

St.<br />

9am–1pm<br />

760-504-4363<br />

Del Mar<br />

1050 Camino Del Mar<br />

1–4pm<br />

858-465-0013<br />

Kearny Mesa<br />

8725 Ariva Ct.<br />

9:30am–1:30pm<br />

858-272-7054<br />

Little Italy Mercato †<br />

600 W. Date St.<br />

8am–2pm<br />

619-233-3901<br />

Pacific Beach<br />

4150 Mission Blvd.<br />

8am–noon<br />

760-741-3763<br />

Poway *<br />

14134 Midland Rd.<br />

8am–1pm<br />

619-249-9395<br />

Rancho Penasquitos YMCA<br />

9400 Fairgrove Ln.<br />

9am–1pm<br />

858-484-8788<br />

Scripps Ranch<br />

10380 Spring Canyon Rd.<br />

9am–1pm<br />

858-586-7933<br />

Temecula—Old Town *<br />

Sixth & Front St., Old Town<br />

8am–12:30pm<br />

760-728-7343<br />

Vista *†<br />

325 Melrose Dr.<br />

8am–1pm<br />

760-945-7425<br />

Sunday<br />

Allied Gardens Sunday<br />

5170 GreenBrier Ave.<br />

10am–2pm<br />

858-568-6291, 619-865-6574<br />

Hillcrest *<br />

3960 Normal & Lincoln Sts.<br />

9am–2pm<br />

619-237-1632<br />

La Jolla Open Aire<br />

Girard Ave. & Genter<br />

9am–1:30pm<br />

858-454-1699<br />

Leucadia *<br />

185 Union St. & Vulcan St.<br />

10am–2pm<br />

858-272-7054<br />

Murrieta *<br />

Village Walk Plaza<br />

I-15, exit west on Calif. Oaks & Kalmia<br />

9am–1pm<br />

760-728-7343<br />

North <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> / Sikes Adobe †<br />

12655 Sunset Dr., Escondido<br />

10:30am–3:30pm<br />

858-735-5311<br />

Rancho <strong>San</strong>ta Fe Del Rayo Village<br />

16079 <strong>San</strong> Dieguito Rd.<br />

9:30am–2pm<br />

619-743-4263<br />

<strong>San</strong>ta Ysabel<br />

21887 Washington St.<br />

10am–4pm<br />

760-782-9202<br />

Solana Beach<br />

410 South Cedros Ave.<br />

Noon–4pm<br />

858-755-0444<br />

* Market vendors accept WIC (Women, Infants, Children Farmers’ Market checks)<br />

† Market vendors accept EBT (Electronic Benefit Transfer)<br />

! Currently only City Heights accepts WIC Farmers’ Market checks and the WIC<br />

Fruit and Vegetable checks.<br />

All <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> County markets listed except SDSU and Seeds @ City are<br />

certified by the County Agricultural Commissioner.<br />

Visit ediblesandiego.com and click on “Resources” for more complete<br />

information and links to farmers’ market websites.<br />

SPECIAL ISSUE • MAY <strong>2019</strong> | edible SAN DIEGO 31


PREP |<br />

BY OLIVIA HAYO<br />

How to Make<br />

Cóctel de Frutas<br />

Mexican Fruit Cocktail<br />

T<br />

he pucker of lime and heat of chiles are addicting<br />

sensations, but couple them with cooling fruits<br />

and vegetables and you’ve got a recipe for the ultimate<br />

refreshment: cóctel de frutas. You’ve undoubtedly seen<br />

fruterías, Mexican juice bars or kiosks lined with cups of<br />

fresh-cut fruit doused in lime, chile powder, and dripping<br />

in a deep red sauce, and you either bought a cup<br />

and found yourself hooked, or wandered by curiously<br />

vowing to try it another time.<br />

Here’s a quick guide to create one of your own at<br />

home with natural ingredients that will make you a<br />

devoted fan in no time.<br />

1. Chile Powder<br />

Popular under the brand name Tajín, this seasoning<br />

blend is made from chiles, salt, lime, and an anticaking<br />

agent. While we’d grab Tajín from our pantry in a pinch,<br />

there’s nothing like making your own that’s completely customized<br />

to your palate and free of any preservatives. Here’s<br />

a recipe to get you started: Remove seeds and stems of 1<br />

cup dried chiles de árbol and 1 whole ancho chile. Toast<br />

in a skillet until fragrant and set aside to cool. Break chiles<br />

into smaller pieces and finely grind using a spice grinder;<br />

mix with 2 ½ tablespoons ground dried lime (available at<br />

international markets) and smoked salt to taste.<br />

2. Chamoy<br />

Sweet, sour, spicy, and salty: This condiment is a secret<br />

weapon you’ll want to find any excuse to use. Aside from<br />

its use as a sauce on cóctel de frutas or swirled through a<br />

fruit smoothie, it’s also great in savory dishes (just imagine<br />

it as a glaze brushed over grilled chicken). There are many<br />

brands available at the grocery store but making your own<br />

with a few ingredients means you always know what’s in<br />

it. Soak 5 dried apricots in warm water for 30 minutes<br />

or up to overnight. Discard liquid and add the fruit to a<br />

blender with 1 cup apricot jam, ¼ cup fresh lime juice,<br />

2 teaspoons red pepper flakes, 1 teaspoon ground ancho<br />

chile, and 1 teaspoon salt. Blend until smooth. Store in<br />

the fridge for up to a week.<br />

3. Fruit<br />

Spices and condiments can only do so much, so be<br />

sure to select seasonal fruits and vegetables with varying<br />

textures, colors, and sweetness for the best result.<br />

Favorites include mango, watermelon, jicama, cantelope,<br />

cucumber, pineapple, and young coconut. Cut into<br />

spears, wedges, cubes, or slices, and arrange on a serving<br />

platter, or divide into cups.<br />

Dust everything with chile powder, drizzle with<br />

chamoy, and top with dried coconut, chile mango,<br />

crushed peanuts, or pieces of tamarind candy.<br />

OLIVIA HAYO<br />

32 ediblesandiego.com


E X C L U S I V E E V E N T S E R I E S<br />

B A J A


4 ediblesandiego.com

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