Eatdrink #77 May/June 2019

The Local Food & Drink Magazine serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario since 2007

The Local Food & Drink Magazine serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario since 2007


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Issue <strong>#77</strong> | <strong>May</strong>/<strong>June</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink<br />

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine<br />

MIGHTY<br />

F.I.N.E.<br />

A Restaurant<br />

in Grand Bend<br />


Culinary Experiences<br />

Planting Seeds for Experiential Tourism<br />

Cool Climate Chardonnay<br />

A Crisp Taste of Our Climate<br />

Road Trip to Elora<br />

Beneath the Plaid<br />

Serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario since 2007<br />


2 | <strong>May</strong>/<strong>June</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Stratford’s<br />

#nextgen chefs are here<br />


BEST<br />


IN THE CITY;<br />

NOW BOTH<br />






Get off the highway and escape the rush. Visit small towns and dusty roads to celebrate<br />

the culture, flavours and creators of Oxford County. Slow down and embrace our rural routes.<br />

Get inspired and find details at<br />

TourismOxford.ca<br />

519-539-9800<br />

1-866-801-7368 x3355<br />

tourism@oxfordcounty.ca<br />

www.tourismoxford.ca<br />

Woodstock, Tillsonburg, Ingersoll, Norwich, Tavistock, Drumbo, Embro

4 | <strong>May</strong>/<strong>June</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink<br />

<br />

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

eatdrinkmagazine<br />

@eatdrinkmag<br />

eatdrinkmag<br />

eatdrink.ca<br />

Think Global. Read Local.<br />

Publisher<br />

Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca<br />

Managing Editor Cecilia Buy – cbuy@eatdrink.ca<br />

Food Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca<br />

Copy Editor Kym Wolfe<br />

Social Media Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca<br />

Advertising Sales Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca<br />

Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca<br />

Stacey McDonald – stacey@eatdrink.ca<br />

Terry-Lynn “TL” Sim – TL@eatdrink.ca<br />

Finances<br />

Ann Cormier – finance@eatdrink.ca<br />

Graphics<br />

Chris McDonell, Cecilia Buy<br />

Writers<br />

Jane Antoniak, Darin Cook,<br />

Gary Killops, Bryan Lavery,<br />

George Macke, Kym Wolfe<br />

Sue Sutherland Wood<br />

Photographers Bruce Fyfe, Steve Grimes, Doug North<br />

Telephone & Fax 519-434-8349<br />

Mailing Address 525 Huron Street, London ON N5Y 4J6<br />

Website<br />

City Media, Cecilia Buy<br />

Social Media Mind Your Own Business<br />

Printing<br />

Sportswood Printing<br />


On the patio of Grand<br />

Bend’s F.I.N.E. a<br />

Restaurant are chef/<br />

owner Erryn Shephard<br />

(left), front-of-house<br />

manager Susan Tebrugge,<br />

and chef Ben Sandwith.<br />

Photo by Bruce Fyfe.<br />

© <strong>2019</strong> <strong>Eatdrink</strong> Inc. and the writers.<br />

All rights reserved.<br />

Reproduction or duplication of any material published in <strong>Eatdrink</strong><br />

or on <strong>Eatdrink</strong>.ca is strictly prohibited without the written permission<br />

of the Publisher. <strong>Eatdrink</strong> has a printed circulation of 20,000<br />

issues published six times annually in each of two markets, for a total<br />

of 240,000 copies in print. The views or opinions expressed in the<br />

information, content and/or advertisements published in <strong>Eatdrink</strong><br />

or online are solely those of the author(s) and do not necessarily<br />

represent those of the Publisher. The Publisher welcomes submissions<br />

but accepts no responsibility for unsolicited material.<br />

Serving up<br />

Great<br />

partnerships<br />

commercial | digital | wide format | design<br />

Let us help with your next project...<br />

519.866.5558 | ben@sportswood.on.ca<br />



eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine March/April <strong>2019</strong> | 5<br />

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RV Parking<br />

on long wknds & July-August<br />





www.pinerymarket.com<br />


VISIT<br />

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3 Miles South of<br />

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Contents<br />

Issue <strong>#77</strong> | <strong>May</strong>/<strong>June</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

Publisher’s Notes<br />

When Patience Is a Virtue<br />

Getting It Right the First Time<br />


8<br />

Food Writer at Large<br />

Culinary Experiences<br />

Planting Seeds for Experiential Tourism<br />


10<br />

40<br />

10<br />

Wine<br />

Cool Climate Chardonnay<br />

A Crisp Taste of Our Climate<br />


40<br />

Theatre<br />

Summertime ...<br />

And the Theatre Is ... Diverse<br />


48<br />

Restaurants<br />

Mighty F.I.N.E. for Fifteen Years<br />

F.I.N.E. a Restaurant, in Grand Bend<br />


20<br />

Spotlight<br />

New Hotspots<br />

Additions to the Culinary Scene<br />


24<br />

Road Trips<br />

Beneath the Plaid<br />

There’s More to Elora<br />


28<br />

Beer<br />

For the Love of Lager<br />

Craft Brewers Take on Big Beer<br />


35<br />

28<br />

20<br />

The BUZZ<br />

Culinary Community Notes<br />

New and Notable<br />

53<br />

Books<br />

Chop Suey Nation<br />

by Ann Hui<br />

Review by DARIN COOK<br />

64<br />

66<br />

Recipes<br />

Earth to Table Every Day<br />

by Jeff Crump and Bettina Schormann<br />

Review & Recipe Selections by TRACY TURLIN<br />

66<br />

The Lighter Side<br />

Skål!<br />

By KYM WOLFE<br />

70<br />


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>May</strong>/<strong>June</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 7<br />



Come & sample our<br />

New Seasonal Menu!<br />

Reserve NOW for Our Famous Gourmet<br />


Sunday, <strong>May</strong> 12<br />

519-430-6414<br />

/Blakes2ndFloor<br />


8 | <strong>May</strong>/<strong>June</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

Publisher’s Notes<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

When Patience Is a Virtue<br />

Getting It Right the First Time<br />


O<br />

ne of the best perks in publishing<br />

<strong>Eatdrink</strong> is the notices we get<br />

when a new business launches. It<br />

is always exciting to hear about<br />

creative people taking the bold step of<br />

introducing the world to their brainchild. This<br />

is not work for the faint of heart! We admire<br />

their courage and strive to be fully supportive.<br />

And we are pleased to announce the news.<br />

As exciting it is to break a story first, we<br />

tend to be a little slow to put together an<br />

in-depth profile for our readers. There<br />

are several sound reasons for this,<br />

although we get some complaints about<br />

this informal policy from eager owners<br />

(and publicists, who are often on shortterm<br />

contracts so they REALLY press to<br />


get their story out). We offer our BUZZ<br />

column, totally free of charge, but “a real story”<br />

is seen as the golden ticket.<br />

We have been doing this since 2007, and we<br />

have learned that we can be of best service if<br />

we are a little patient. Despite putting together<br />

the most detailed and well-researched business<br />

plans, years of experience in the industry, with<br />

boundless energy, passion and keen intelligence<br />

brought to the project, very few businesses get<br />

everything right when they first open.<br />

I could cite some real disasters, like a head<br />

chef crumbling under the pressure of opening<br />

day and resigning before dinner service was<br />

over, but those are few and far between.<br />

Thankfully! But quite consistently, lesser<br />

issues arise. Perhaps there’s a staffing issue.<br />

It might turn out that some menu items are<br />

just not working, the HVAC system proves<br />

inadequate with a weather change, or a<br />

supplier can’t manage to deliver a key product<br />

in a timely manner. A tweaking or an overhaul<br />

takes place, maybe several times, before the<br />

business is really hitting its stride.<br />

We take our responsibility to our readers<br />

very seriously. We only publish stories about<br />

places that we are confident our readers will<br />

enjoy. The result: readers understand the<br />

story is a form of endorsement and their<br />

interest is piqued. A bump in business ensues.<br />

New customers are created, and they help<br />

spread the word. That is the ideal situation.<br />

Every good business makes the effort to<br />

ensure every customer enjoys an optimum<br />

experience. For a first-time customer, this is<br />

absolutely crucial. A large number of patrons<br />

will not easily return if things do not go<br />

well. Which is why a “soft opening” is<br />

so helpful for getting launched. There<br />

is an understanding on everyone’s<br />

part that this is “a work in progress”<br />

and extra allowances are granted. Here<br />

at <strong>Eatdrink</strong>, we like to extend that grace<br />

period a little longer.<br />

Early on, we published a story on an<br />

interesting new business, and the owner was<br />

excited. The story came out, but in just a few<br />

weeks, some things went sideways. The owner<br />

contacted us a few months later, asking that<br />

we write another story about his business.<br />

“So much has changed! We’ve fixed so many<br />

problems! We need to tell a different story!”<br />

Publishing every other month, we literally<br />

don’t have the space to write about every<br />

worthy business even once a year. We have<br />

written about some businesses more than<br />

once — our cover story is a fine example of<br />

that (pun intended!) — but there are years in<br />

between stories. So we wait, until a venture is<br />

relatively established, and also able to sustain<br />

a spike in business when a story comes out.<br />

We’re interested in long term relationships,<br />

with our customers and with our readers.<br />

Now, all that said, we’re trying something<br />

a little different this issue, and have included<br />

a column about five new businesses that<br />

<strong>Eatdrink</strong> is watching with some excitement.<br />

Is this a good idea? Please let me know! We’re<br />

here to serve.<br />


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

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10 | <strong>May</strong>/<strong>June</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Food Writer at Large<br />

Culinary Experiences<br />

Planting the Seeds for Experiential Tourism<br />


We like to travel along Oxford<br />

County’s concessions and back<br />

roads to rediscover the terroir<br />

and pastoral landscapes and to<br />

stop at the farmgates in season. Just outside<br />

Woodstock, situated in the rolling hills just off<br />

Highway 59, is Shep Ysselstein’s Gunn’s Hill<br />

Artisan Cheese operation and his family’s wellestablished,<br />

third generation dairy farmstead.<br />

Bo, the Ysselstein’s affable canine will likely<br />

greet you upon arrival. Prepare yourself to<br />

walk in the shoes of a gifted local cheesemaker,<br />

while attending Affinage 101, a new hands-on<br />

culinary experience in Oxford County.<br />

We were given hairnets and disposable shoe<br />

coverings before heading in to get a hands-on,<br />

behind-the-scenes look at how Ysselstein<br />

crafts his award-winning Swiss-style artisan<br />

cheese. The wheels of cheese are stored on<br />

long wooden shelves in climate-sensitive<br />

ageing rooms. We washed the hefty wheels of<br />

cheese in order to keep them moist, turned<br />

them over, and washed them again allowing<br />

the cheese to gain additional flavour. Using<br />

a double-handed cheese knife, the affable<br />

Ysselstein, cut into the wheels in order to<br />

taste the cheese at the various stages of<br />

ageing. We were guided on how to judge the<br />

quality of cheese, and rate the various flavour<br />

At Gunn’s Hill Artisan Cheese visitors get the full<br />

experience: from hands-on cheesemaking activities ,<br />

to preparing and enjoying the final product.<br />

profiles, textures, and anomalies.<br />

Later we prepared a trio of cheese<br />

fondues. The insides of the pots were<br />

rubbed with garlic cloves, white wine<br />

was slightly heated with cornstarch<br />

over portable burners, and then<br />

three different varieties of cheese<br />

were grated and individually stirred<br />

into their own fondue pots. We ate<br />

the communal fondue by dipping<br />

fresh bread (from Woodstock’s new<br />

bakery, Two Guys and a Whisk) into<br />

Dave Schonberger leads visitors in “From Tree<br />

to Table – A Build your own Board Experience,”<br />

another opportunity for experiential tourists.

the melted cheese.<br />

There was time to<br />

socialize with other<br />

participants, sample<br />

different cheese<br />

varieties and savour<br />

the fondues.<br />

On display at<br />

Gunn’s Hill’s newly<br />

renovated showroom<br />

are tree-totable<br />

charcuterie<br />

and cheese boards,<br />

Poland, Baltic States handcrafted & St. Petersburg with<br />

21 days, sustainably-sourced<br />

Late August <strong>2019</strong><br />

Stylish and vibrant history local and wood culture by and Dave the<br />

sheer grandeur Schonberger of Russia’s imperial of city<br />

Tanzania Ottercreek & Zanzibar Woodworks.<br />

September In 2018 <strong>2019</strong><br />

14 days,<br />

10-day Serengeti & Schonberger Tarangire National won Parks<br />

Safari,, plus the 4 Innovative days Beach Resort<br />

Experience of the<br />

Year Award from<br />

Southwest Ontario<br />

31 Tourism Nottinghill Gate, for his Suite 203,<br />

Oakville “From ON Tree TICO#50013851 to Table<br />

– A Build-your-own<br />

Board Experience.”<br />

This experience<br />

includes a guided<br />

walk through Carolinian<br />

Forest, an<br />

artisanal workshop<br />

where you can craft<br />

your own live-edge<br />

charcuterie board,<br />

and a tasting of<br />

local cheese and<br />

charcuterie.<br />

Affinage 101 and<br />

“From Tree to Table<br />

– A Build-your-own<br />

Board Experience”<br />

are both good examples<br />

of authentic<br />

experiences which<br />

enable visitors<br />

to forge deeper<br />

connections with<br />

regional food stories.<br />

Planting Seeds for Experiential Tourism Dinner:<br />

(top) Modernist Apple with Edible Soil by Chef<br />

Brian Sua-an of Reverie: (middle) Pawpaw Puree<br />

from Farmer Paul Spence; (bottom) Joanne Wolnik,<br />

Tourism Project Development Manager, Southwest<br />

Ontario Tourism Corporation. Photos by Phong Tran.<br />

experience the<br />

wonders & colours<br />

of morocco<br />

A tour that will<br />

open your mind<br />

and your senses<br />

11 DAYS<br />

18 MEALS<br />

Call Heather for dates and prices<br />

www.heathersincomparablejourneys.ca<br />

For any and all of your travel needs<br />

519-473-8591 — Heather Wilkinson<br />

Regional Office: 31 Nottinghill Gate, Suite 203, Oakville<br />

TICO#50013851<br />

Come Experience Our World!<br />

Award Winning Artisan Cheese<br />

NOW OFFERING! Affinage 101<br />

A hands-on behind-the-scenes experience<br />

• Visit the aging room where cheese is cured<br />

• Taste the changes in flavour as the cheese cures<br />

• Discover steps to judge cheese quality and taste<br />

• Create a delicious Gunn’s Hill fondue from scratch<br />

• Find details and register on our website<br />

445172 Gunn's Hill Rd, Woodstock, ON<br />

519-424-4024<br />


Trust...<br />

Taste...<br />

Quality...<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Celes Davar (above) discusses experiential tourism<br />

with an engaged group of industry professionals at<br />

a Slow Food-inspired evening.<br />

Your Source for<br />

Dry Aged Steaks,<br />

Sausages, Burgers & Kebabs<br />

and so much more ...<br />

• Sourced locally from trusted farms<br />

• Traditional European preparation methods<br />

• The latest in food processing innovation<br />

Open six days a week.<br />

Hensall, Ontario<br />

Just off Hwy 4,<br />

45 minutes north of London.<br />

www.metzgermeats.com<br />

519-262-3130<br />

Available in London at<br />

The Village Meat Shop<br />

at Western Fair Farmers’ Market<br />

on Saturdays!<br />

Local Beef • Pork • Lamb • Poultry<br />

Specialty European Meat Products<br />

When led by knowledgeable guides, participants<br />

become interactively immersed. Experiential<br />

tourism offers a value-added, hands-on activity<br />

that changes the visitor from a consumer to a<br />

participant, enriching the experience, and often<br />

creating longer stays and increasing revenue.<br />

Last November a culinary experience with<br />

an invitation to be creative about tourism<br />

was branded as “Planting the Seed for<br />

Experiential Tourism”. It is being marketed<br />

for team building experiences and convention<br />

attendees later this year. This experience<br />

was crafted with Melissa Du Luca of Tourism<br />

London, Joanne Wolnik of Southwest<br />

Ontario Tourism Corporation (SWOTC) and<br />

Forest City Cookbook creator Alieska Robles.<br />

We asked participants to attend with a spirit<br />

of adventure and prepared to be enlightened

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

by culinary professionals. Designed to<br />

inspire participants and to think about<br />

creative collaboration and innovation, the<br />

experience included certified tea sommelier<br />

and nutritionist Michelle Pierce Hamilton,<br />

owner of beTeas and The Tea Lounge; chef/<br />

owner Brian Sua-an of Reverie, London’s<br />

12-seat tasting restaurant; chef/owner Thomas<br />

Waite of The In Home Chef; and Paul Spence,<br />

Chatham-Kent’s local food champion.<br />

More recently, I facilitated a Slow Foodinspired<br />

evening on behalf of Lavery Culinary<br />

Group. My colleague and nephew Nick Lavery<br />

emceed the event, with a craft beer pairing by<br />

Nate Torrresan of Forked River Brewing Co.<br />

Speakers Gary Rowsell and Emanuela Frongia<br />

provided an impressively nuanced discourse<br />

on the Slow Food movement. Frongia spoke<br />

of the Canadian Ark of Taste (think of<br />

Noah’s Ark for food), which comprises an<br />

archive of foods threatened by agribusiness,<br />

standardization and environmental<br />

degradation. Photographer Phong Tran<br />

offered expert advice on creating Instagramworthy<br />

food photos with your cellphone.<br />

Sample delicious local eats,<br />

meet inspiring producers and<br />

marvel at the tempting array<br />

of fresh and artisanal edibles.<br />

From farm to table, pork to pies<br />

to pints, discover more<br />

in Perth County!<br />

restaurants<br />

farm gates<br />

Woodstock’s Chocolatea involves visitors in creating<br />

hand-crafted chocolates — a “Truffle Camp” workshop —<br />

a fine example of experiential tourism in action.<br />

food shops<br />

Find us, follow us!<br />

#DiscoverMore #PerthCounty<br />

@PerthCoTourism<br />


14 | <strong>May</strong>/<strong>June</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

Experiential dining events are all about<br />

innovation, often featuring restaurants popups<br />

in non-traditional spaces. For both the<br />

“Planting the Seeds for Experiential Tourism”<br />

and Slow Food-inspired dinners, menus<br />

included less familiar indigenous ingredients<br />

such as custardy pawpaw, tart quince, nutty<br />

Jerusalem artichokes, local chestnuts and the<br />

honey-like tasting Jesuit pear, prepared by<br />

farm-to-table observant farmers and chefs.<br />

We learned how experiential tourism is<br />

changing the landscape of visitor experiences<br />

Homestyle Cooking & Baking<br />

Family Owned & Operated Mennonite Restaurant & Bakery<br />

Homemade cooking & baking made fresh daily from<br />

scratch using the best ingredients!<br />

• 20+ Pies! • Muffins • Squares • Cookies • Sweet Buns • Donuts<br />

• Cheesecakes • Tarts • Cakes & Cupcakes • Bread & Dinner Rolls<br />

OPEN<br />

ALL YEAR<br />

ROUND!<br />

10am–6pm<br />

DAILY<br />

www.annamaes.ca<br />

519-595-4407<br />

Monday–Saturday<br />

7am–8pm<br />

Cash or Debit Accepted<br />

4060 Line 72, Millbank ON<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

in travel and tourism in Canada by “experiential<br />

guru” Celes Davar, of the award-winning<br />

boutique experiential tourism company Earth<br />

Rhythms. Davar and his wife Susan are dedicated<br />

to fostering customized immersive travel<br />

experiences. Twenty new trailblazing experience-development<br />

coaches emerged from the<br />

“Train the Trainer” course facilitated by Davar,<br />

all grads of his “Unlocked & Inspired” training<br />

program provided by SWOTC.<br />

Among the grads were tourism innovator<br />

and Oxford County chocolatier Cindy Walker,<br />

certified tea sommelier, and self-styled “Queen<br />

of the Ganache.” As owner/head chocolatier<br />

of Ingersoll’s Chocolatea, Walker crafts smallbatch<br />

chocolates with innovative flavour<br />

pairings and procures a carefully curated<br />

selection of teas. Participants assume the role<br />

of the chocolatier and step behind the counter<br />

to craft a dozen of their own multi-flavoured<br />

truffles in her “Truffle Camp” workshops.<br />

Walker guided the Culinary Learning Tour<br />

for the SWOTC <strong>2019</strong> annual conference. We<br />

were transported by school bus to Heeman’s<br />

Greenhouse where we met Susan Judd, a<br />

partner in Ride the Bine, who provides local<br />

beer, wine and cider tours with co-owner<br />

Amanda Dooney. Chief Daymaker Will Heeman<br />

was on hand to provide context and an engaging<br />

overview of Heeman’s family owned and<br />

operated greenhouse and strawberry farm. We<br />

tasted and transplanted different herb varietals<br />

to take away. A honey tasting experience was<br />

presented by Tom Heeman, with an explanation<br />

on how bees make honey, the different varieties<br />

and the variations in colour, taste, texture<br />

and aroma. Tom is the driving force behind<br />

Heeman’s honey production and has a solid<br />

background in agronomy and biological controls<br />

along with industry experience, having grown<br />

up on the farm. The honey was paired with<br />


& GIFT SHOP<br />

Old Fashioned Sausage<br />

Smoked Pork Products<br />

Bacon & Ribs<br />

Local Artisan Cheeses<br />

Large Selection of Gourmet Condiments<br />

The Finest Local Poultry Products<br />

Free Range & Drug Free<br />

Holland Grills<br />

#2146 Highway 7 & 8, Shakespeare ON<br />

519-625-8194<br />


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

different types of cheese for a taste comparison.<br />

Chef Shauna Versloot, coach/owner of The Live<br />

Well Community, spoke about a recent trip to<br />

Italy as well as balsamic vinegar. The tour ended<br />

with a competitive make-your-own sundae with<br />

strawberry preserve and balsamic glaze topping.<br />

Davar stated, “In the hands of local storytellers,<br />

passionate gardeners and in the warm,<br />

humid and green environment, we had a tropical<br />

holiday for a winter’s afternoon. That’s how<br />

we change tourism, one experience at a time.”<br />

This summer, my colleagues and I will be<br />

helping to host a range of customized foodfocused<br />

and cultural experiential walking tours<br />

options that will be on offer in Downtown<br />

London. You will be able to experience the<br />

Forest City in a new way, and indulge all of your<br />

senses with an insider tour by a local culinary<br />

expert. Watch the <strong>Eatdrink</strong> social media<br />

channels for more information.<br />

<strong>Eatdrink</strong> Food Editor and Writer at Large BRYAN<br />

LAVERY brings years of professional experience in<br />

the hospitality industry, as a co-founder of the Lavery<br />

Culinary Group, food writer, chef, event planner, former<br />

restaurateur and mentor.<br />

Stratford ‘Stinks’ – but only once a year!<br />

September 7, 9am – 5pm<br />

September 8, 10am – 4pm<br />

Indoors at the Community Hall<br />

Stratford Rotary Complex<br />

353 McCarthy Road, Stratford ON<br />

•<br />

Ontario Garlic & Artisan Market<br />

featuring over 70 vendors<br />

Exclusive Tastings<br />

pairing artisanal cheeses with wines,<br />

beer and spirits<br />

Cooking Demonstrations<br />

Educational Forums<br />

Live Entertainment<br />

Free parking and bike valet service<br />

growers & creators of fine lavender products<br />


INDULGE.<br />

ESCAPE.<br />

Annual<br />

BLOOM<br />

Celebration<br />

<strong>June</strong> 15-30<br />

519-494-5525<br />

47589 Sparta Line, Sparta<br />

Wed–Sat 10-5; Sun 12–4<br />

Mother’s Day to Dec. 20<br />

PLUS <strong>June</strong>–Labour Day: Tues 10-5<br />

steedandcompany.com<br />

$5 Garden<br />

Admission<br />

<strong>June</strong> 15-July 14

Stratford is<br />

more than<br />

great theatre<br />

visitstratford.ca<br />

Where Herbivores<br />

can bring their Carnivores<br />

PATIO<br />

NOW<br />

OPEN!<br />

118 Downie Street, Stratford<br />

Wednesday thru Sunday 11–8<br />

Call 519.305.5888<br />

www.theplanetdiner.com<br />

Globally inspired; locally sourced.<br />

An eclectic array of tapas, tacos, & plates;<br />

featuring a pre-theatre prix fixe dinner menu.<br />

Local craft beer & wine,<br />

unique cocktails & margaritas.<br />

(519)273.5886<br />

themillstone.ca<br />

Every Saturday<br />

10pm - 2am<br />

30 Ontario St, Stratford, ON<br />


Laotian cuisine alongside<br />

regionally-inspired cocktails<br />

@ latenightlao<br />


“Our bodies are our gardens<br />

to which our wills are gardeners.”<br />

— William Shakespeare<br />

Awaken your taste buds<br />

with over 50 choices of fresh,<br />

olive oils & balsamic vinegars,<br />

all in the heart of Stratford.<br />

21 York Street<br />

TUES, WED, THURS, SAT 10–5;<br />

FRI 10–6; SUN 12–4; Closed MON<br />

519-508-1757<br />

oliveyourfavourites.com<br />

Casual Family-Friendly Italian<br />

Eat In • Take Out • Patio<br />

Licensed<br />

Tuesday–Thursday 4:30–9:00<br />

Friday–Saturday 4:30–10:00<br />

38 Erie Street, Stratford<br />

519-305-3838<br />


“A fun place to shop<br />

for housewares and gifts!”<br />

Beautiful rugs and textiles made<br />

entirely from recycled plastic bottles<br />

visitstratford.ca<br />

@StratfordON<br />

WATSON’S<br />


84 Ontario St. Stratford<br />

watsonsofstratford.com<br />

519-273-1790<br />


A WORLD OF<br />



Friday Night Live at Revival House<br />

Join us Friday nights in Stratford as we turn a dining hall into a Manhattan-style night<br />

club. Don’t miss these six exceptional evenings that will jazz-up your summer nights!<br />

$45 each show, in advance (+ $5 at the door)<br />

$89 Dinner & Show package, in advance only<br />


Stephen Prutsman, jazz<br />


Conception Bay with Duane Andrews, Mark Fewer<br />

and INNERchamber, jazz & folk<br />


Phil Dwyer Trio, jazz<br />


Bohemians of Brooklyn, Tom Allen, Lori<br />

Gemmel, Bryce Kulak, Patricia O’Callaghan<br />


Rhapsody in Blue and Brazilian Jazz with<br />

John Novacek, James Campbell and Graham<br />

Campbell, brazilian jazz<br />


Jodi Proznick & Heather Bambrick, jazz<br />

season<br />

sponsor<br />

519.271.2101 / 1.866.288.4313<br />


20 | <strong>May</strong>/<strong>June</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Restaurants<br />

Mighty F.I.N.E. for Fifteen Years<br />

F.I.N.E. a Restaurant, in Grand Bend<br />


Aging like a fine wine, or maybe more like the<br />

energizer bunny, Chef Erryn Shephard, shows<br />

no sign of slowing down or of losing her love<br />

of French cuisine. Her brilliant touches on<br />

everything from the breadbasket to the cheesecake, not<br />

to mention custom décor including her own art collection,<br />

make Grand Bend’s F.I.N.E. a Restaurant a beloved<br />

Southwestern Ontario destination.<br />

Shephard speaks of roux in loving tones. Butter and<br />

flour are her muses. She bakes and makes soups with such<br />

passion that, at 58, when other chefs might think about<br />

standing down after years on their feet, she is consumed<br />

with what new culinary business she may yet start.<br />

“I love it. I cannot imagine doing anything else. I’m<br />

not tired of any of it yet,” she says when you can manage<br />

to get her to sit down in a chair for a few minutes for<br />

an interview. Her 14-year partner in the kitchen, Chef<br />

Ben Sandwith, takes her chair for further questions as<br />

Shephard dashes off to the kitchen to bring yet more<br />

samples or to<br />

personally pack<br />

left-overs for<br />

guests to take<br />

home.<br />

“There’s<br />

not a thing<br />

she won’t do<br />

for someone,”<br />

says Sandwith.<br />

He outlines<br />

the various<br />

charitable acts<br />

by Shephard<br />

including<br />

cooking for<br />

schools,<br />

churches, and<br />

fundraisers<br />

for everything<br />

from the local<br />

foodbank to<br />

Seated on the F.I.N.E. patio are chef/owner Erryn Shephard (left),<br />

chef Ben Sandwith, and Front-of-house manager Susan Tebrugge

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Tastings at the London Hunt Club. This is in<br />

addition to the tens of thousands of dollars<br />

she has raised for cancer research at St.<br />

Joseph’s Health Care in London via her annual<br />

ladies’ nights dinners and auctions.<br />

This generous spirit is also evident in her<br />

kitchen. While Shephard loves working with<br />

rich ingredients in classically-inspired dishes,<br />

she has respect for customers who prefer<br />

lighter or vegetarian fare.<br />

Daily soups include the popular Coconut<br />

Curry Sweet Potato vegetarian soup. Cream<br />

of Celery Root soup, topped with apple slaw,<br />

is light, silky and crunchy. Shephard says she<br />

is seeing a younger crowd in recent years who<br />

“don’t come in for a Manhattan, but they<br />

know a lot about food.” While the certified<br />

Angus beef tenderloin remains a mainstay on<br />

the menu, chefs Shephard and Sandwith also<br />

give a nod to fish as a customer choice. <strong>May</strong>be<br />

it’s the location (next to Lake Huron waters)<br />

which inspires both chefs and customers to<br />

clamour for the lake fish. While the pan-fried<br />

pickerel is outstanding, so is the fresh BC<br />

halibut, pan-seared and served beautifully<br />

with lemon cream, spring peas, homemade<br />


519-565-2576<br />

LakeHouseofBayfield.com<br />

meats Catering that your needs.<br />

C’Angelina<br />

Catering<br />

Corporate & Family BBQs<br />

Prepared Foods & Fresh Meats<br />

Sausage-Making Classes<br />

Visit us this Summer at<br />

The Pinery Market<br />

Sundays 9–4<br />

By Appointment<br />

426 Third Street, London<br />

519-204-8189<br />


22 | <strong>May</strong>/<strong>June</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

gnocchi that melts in your mouth, and is topped with<br />

a light salad. Don’t put it past Sandwith to play it up<br />

with jumbo shrimp, lobster and other ocean fishes for<br />

his fish-of-the-day or his crostini-of-the-day. “Ben has<br />

just gotten better and better,” says Shephard.<br />

Both chefs were trained in the US. Shephard<br />

attended the Greenbrier Apprentice program in<br />

West Virgina as well as programs in Dallas and Ohio.<br />

Sandwith grew his talents in New York City before<br />

returning home to Grand Bend, where he and Shephard<br />

connected at the Oakwood Inn. They are strongly<br />

customer-centric while remaining true to “cooking<br />

what we love to cook” and what the customers love to<br />

eat. Front-of-house is managed by Susan Tebrugge.<br />

A visit to F.I.N.E. simply must include dessert.<br />

Shephard’s cheesecakes are deep, creamy and not<br />

overly-sweet despite being double-chocolate or peanut<br />

butter with additions of fudge sauce, whip cream,<br />

cookies and candies. She is playful with offerings<br />

such as hot bananas in deep-friend wontons with<br />

spiced honey, cinnamon sugar and vanilla ice cream.<br />

“People are more open to trying things, trusting us,”<br />

says Shephard. As well, they get summer customers<br />

on vacation who are looking for a special experience.<br />

The customer base has grown from Grand Bend<br />

locals to regulars from London, Sarnia and beyond.<br />

The restaurant is open ten months a year, closing<br />

in January and February (although it opens for<br />

Valentine’s Day). F.I.N.E. also has a busy catering<br />

business serving up to 200 at off-site weddings,<br />

custom private dining and even beach parties. The<br />

restaurant itself has two sections for about 40 people,<br />

a seasonal patio for 24 and a private room upstairs for<br />

12. Think elegant cabin with stunning artwork and<br />

funky seasonal decorations. F.I.N.E. offers some special<br />

occasion events such as Mother’s Day brunch, Father’s<br />

Day dinner, wine-tastings and tapas with Michael Buck<br />

of Lifford Wines. And an interesting experience that<br />

combines dinner with psychic readings.<br />

Still, Shephard is strongly hinting she wants more.<br />

“I love the feeling of yeast, dough in my hands,”<br />

she says. For example, locals pop by on Fridays<br />

for Cinnamon Friday Fries — a tribute to a longago<br />

Grand Bend bakery which sold iced cinnamon<br />

deep-fried dough strips. “I was taught by such great<br />

chefs in the US so I like the classical stuff and how<br />

it’s applied here. Sometimes I think I’d like to offer<br />

the food of your parents: cool, old-school and still<br />

really good.” She gets sentimental reminiscing about<br />

Oysters Rockefeller and Surf ’n’ Turf. Clearly, with<br />

14 solid years in the bank, the loyal clients of F.I.N.E.<br />

Right, from top: Cream of Celery Root Soup with apple slaw ;<br />

Crostini-of-the-Day: jumbo shrimp, garlic chilis and<br />

homemade hot sauce; Chocolate cheesecake with Skor bits,<br />

chocolate fudge sauce, cream and berries.

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>May</strong>/<strong>June</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 23<br />

F.I.N.E a Restaurant<br />

42 Ontario Street South, Grand Bend<br />

519-238-6224<br />

finearestaurant.com<br />

lunch & dinner hours change seasonally<br />

Pan-roasted BC Halibut (top) with homemade gnocchi,<br />

spring peas, asparagus, and lemon cream; and Hot<br />

Bananas Won Tons (below) with spiced honey, cinnamon<br />

sugar, Macadamia nuts and vanilla ice cream.<br />

have proven that Shephard and Sandwith have<br />

found a unique space for their talents, with<br />

the promise of more to come.<br />

The Best and Only Water-TOP Patio!<br />

Chef-inspired Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner Menus<br />

Craft Beers & Inspired Cocktails<br />

Best View In The City<br />

Join Us ... Dockside!<br />

JANE ANTONIAK is a regular contributor to <strong>Eatdrink</strong>.<br />

She is also Manager, Communications & Media Relations,<br />

at King’s University College in London.<br />

BRUCE FYFE is a frequent photographer for <strong>Eatdrink</strong><br />

and Head, User Experience & User Services, Western<br />

Libraries for Western University.<br />

Alternate Grounds Dockside<br />

Sarnia Bay Marina,<br />

97 Seaway Road, Sarnia<br />

519-332-3081<br />

Open Daily • from 8–Late • April–October<br />

agdockside.com<br />

“Where everyone knows your game”<br />

18 Hole Golf Course<br />

Year-round Restaurant / Bar<br />

519-236-4030<br />

whitesquirrelgolfclub.com<br />

72538 Bluewater Hwy. 21, Zurich

24 | <strong>May</strong>/<strong>June</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Spotlight<br />

New Hotspots<br />

Five Noteworthy Additions to Our Culinary Scene<br />


There is no shortage of exciting culinary news,<br />

and our Buzz column on page 53 offers plenty of<br />

proof of that. We think it’s obvious editors here<br />

at <strong>Eatdrink</strong> are always on the lookout for quality<br />

businesses that our readers will want to know about. There<br />

is also real consternation about the constraints on the<br />

number of stories we can print in any one issue, in any one<br />

year. This column is an effort to help remedy that.<br />

After a great deal of discussion, we are putting an extra<br />

spotlight on five new businesses of merit, with a bit more<br />

attention than the Buzz column can afford. Here they are,<br />

in no particular order, and with some exceptionally enticing<br />

enterprises left on the back burner for a future issue.<br />

Harris Electric Eatery<br />

159 Queen Street East, St. Marys<br />

519-914-8811<br />

facebook.com/HarrisElectricEatery<br />

tuesday–saturday 11:30–2pm; 4:45–8:45pm<br />

sunday & monday closed<br />

The location will be familiar to many as the<br />

former home to some great restaurants, most<br />

recently Chris and Mary Woolf’s Little Reds.<br />

But chef Jordy Carr reached even further<br />

back into the building’s history, when it was<br />

home to Harris Electric until 1979. Given that<br />

his mother’s maiden name was Harris (no<br />

relation), the homage to both town and family<br />

felt right.<br />

Chef Carr worked across the country<br />

before returning to his<br />

hometown with a young<br />

family in tow. Having<br />

been in the industry<br />

for about two decades<br />

(he started when he<br />

was 14!), Carr had run<br />

kitchens but not his<br />

own restaurant. He made a commitment to a<br />

farm-to-table approach, making everything<br />

in house, from preserves to smoked meats<br />

and charcuterie. The atmosphere is familyfriendly<br />

and cozy, with an interesting range<br />

of craft beers on tap. Chef’s goal is to have<br />

“something for everyone” but he keeps the<br />

regular menu manageable and fresh. Expect<br />

great sandwiches and burgers, salads and<br />

perhaps steak frites or a creative take on<br />

tacos. Changing specials frequently reflect<br />

Carr’s interest in Asian and Latino cuisines.<br />

Just ensure that you leave room for dessert!

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

AO Pasta<br />

38 Erie Street, Stratford<br />

519-305-3838<br />

aopasta.com<br />

tuesday–thursday 4:30–9pm,<br />

friday & saturday 4:30–10pm<br />

sunday & monday closed<br />

Boutique Bakery<br />

Buttercream Cakes,<br />

Cookies and<br />

French Macarons<br />

Complimentary<br />

Wedding<br />

Consultations<br />

by Appointment<br />

Open for Walk-in Purchases<br />

THURS & FRI 11–4pm • SAT 10am–2pm<br />

145 Wortley Road, London<br />

Upstairs— above the former Village Harvest Bakery<br />

bakeshopstudio.com<br />

Make HAPPINESS<br />

a part of your day.<br />

❤ ❤ ❤ ❤ <br />

❤ <br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

AO Pasta is the creation of<br />

Kris and Suzy Schotzhauer,<br />

with the name inspired by<br />

their young children, Axel<br />

and Olive. Chef Kris,<br />

Stratford-raised, honed his<br />

love for pasta at Toronto’s Enoteca Sociale. Chef<br />

Suzy made her mark as a pastry chef in Calgary.<br />

Together now for almost a decade, their<br />

restaurant is as family-centred as the business<br />

name. Open hours are structured to maintain<br />

a balance between work and home life, and<br />

the menu is inventive but accessible, anchored<br />

by — no surprise here — pastas and made-toorder<br />

sauces. Craft beers and a good wine list<br />

are complemented by Italian soft drinks.<br />

Striking a balance between great food and<br />

affordability means counter service without<br />

wait staff and no reservations, with the goal<br />

of filling the gap between fast food joints and<br />

Stratford’s sit-down restaurants. The space,<br />

previously home to The County Food Co., offers<br />

comfortable seating and a casual ambiance.<br />

Procure a table, peruse the “simple and<br />

honest, Italian-inspired menu using seasonal,<br />

locally-sourced products and authentic Italian<br />

ingredients,” then get up to order. You’ll find all<br />

is as advertised, simply delicious. The signature<br />

Arancini — deep-fried risotto balls stuffed with<br />

mozzarella — are highly recommended.

26 | <strong>May</strong>/<strong>June</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

Streamliners Espresso Bar<br />

767 Talbot St.,St. Thomas<br />

519-631-0999<br />

facebook.com/streamlinersespressobar<br />

monday–wednesday 7am–6pm<br />

thursday & friday 7am–8pm<br />

saturday 7am–6pm<br />

sunday 9am–4pm<br />

First, while Streamliners<br />

can hardly be called “new” (having been open<br />

about two years) it has grown into a truly<br />

chic hotspot of note. It’s located in the heart<br />

of “Railway City,” across the street from the<br />

marvelously restored CASO Station that is<br />

also home to the Las Chicas del Cafe coffee<br />

roastery. Those are the same “coffee chicks”<br />

behind Streamliners, and along with awardwinning<br />

coffee, hearty and healthy breakfast<br />

and lunch options, and delicious pastries,<br />

this a great all-day spot. Open Mike Nights<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

bring in music, and even a Poetry Slam. As<br />

one fan said, “Go for the coffee. Stay for the<br />

atmosphere. The people here are amazing!”<br />

Ivy Ristorante<br />

587 Oxford St E., London<br />

519-601-7707<br />

ivyristorante.com<br />

tuesday–thursday 5pm–10pm<br />

friday & saturday 5pm–11pm<br />

closed sunday & monday<br />

At a time when so many<br />

are turning to a less<br />

formal approach, it’s both<br />

a surprise and refreshing<br />

to see “the best of Italy”<br />

presented with classic fine<br />

dining accoutrements, white linen tablecloths<br />

included. In the former home of Bourbon<br />

Street on Oxford St. at Adelaide, owners<br />

Michael & Karla have transformed the space<br />

with elegant and romantic touches throughout.<br />

The menu is as classic as the decor, with a wine<br />

list offering predominately Old World choices.<br />

Brickhouse Brewpub<br />

190 Fairway Rd, Woodstock<br />

519-290-5347<br />

upperthamesbrewing.ca/brewpub<br />

sunday–thursday 11am–11pm<br />

friday & saturday 11am–late<br />

This is the second location for Upper<br />

Thames Brewing Company (the first locale<br />

at 225 Bysham Park Drive in Woodstock also<br />

has an appealing taproom). Twelve taps are<br />

The menu is unabashedly upscale, with a wide<br />

variety of the Italian canon presented with a<br />

dedication to tradition.<br />

dedicated to their own beer, with<br />

their small-batch approach ideal for<br />

experimentation and limited hardto-find<br />

seasonal offerings. Another<br />

dozen taps rotate other Ontario<br />

craft beers. This is a production<br />

facility too, so there’s a store for<br />

bottles and growlers to go, but a full<br />

kitchen makes this a popular destination for<br />

more than great beer.<br />

A casual pub vibe includes counter service

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

for traditional pub fare that often incorporates<br />

Upper Thames beer. Think Lazy Fox Amber<br />

Ale-Braised Pork Side Ribs with a Gunn’s Hill<br />

cheese-loaded baked potato, or Beef & Ale Pie<br />

filled with local beef, onion, carrots, potato,<br />

mushrooms and Timberbeast Brown Ale. The<br />

food is hearty, the atmosphere is warm and<br />

friendly. Watch the website for special events,<br />

including live music, comedy and more.<br />

grace is delicious + modern canadian + localfocused<br />

+ from scratch + hyper-seasonal +<br />

accessible + welcoming + food-as-ar t + foodas-communit<br />

y + ethical + unpretentious + for<br />

celebrations + for af ter work + beautiful, fun,<br />

demystified wine + curated beer + craf ted<br />

cock tails + coming spring <strong>2019</strong><br />

215 DUNDAS ST · 226 667 4822<br />




Monday–Thursday: 11:30am–9pm<br />

Friday: 11:30am–10pm<br />

Saturday: 11:30am–10pm<br />

Sunday: 11:30am–8pm<br />

NOW OPEN<br />

Reservations: 519-601-7799<br />

1140 Southdale Road West, London<br />

www.bocconcinilondon.ca<br />

Free Parking

28 | <strong>May</strong>/<strong>June</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />


Road Trips<br />

Beneath the Plaid<br />

There’s More to Elora<br />


The village of Elora has so much to<br />

offer — hiking, quiet walks, fishing,<br />

festivals, scenic views, music,<br />

water activities, history, wildlife<br />

— and of course wonderful places to eat and<br />

drink. Unique shops that have been carefully<br />

restored in keeping with heritage architecture<br />

also offer exciting wares year round. Retaining<br />

tradition, yet constantly evolving to present<br />

something new makes Elora an ideal road trip<br />

destination — for any season.<br />

At Elora Mercantile (eloramercantile.ca),<br />

vivacious Patti Boutin, speaks ardently about<br />

being “a general store with a conscience.” This<br />

credo is reflected in choices that are always<br />

organic, local when possible and predominantly<br />

made in-house by Patti herself, with assistance<br />

from her mother Michele, who<br />

brings a charming Québécois<br />

sensibility to many of the offerings.<br />

Like all of the vendors in Elora,<br />

they have a stalwart concern for<br />

the environment (bottled water<br />

is simply not available, anywhere). Re-fillable<br />

containers are used for many of the products.<br />

Patti invited me to try a few samples and<br />

both the quality and unique selections were<br />

impressive. Cretons, a rich meat spread beloved<br />

in Quebec, and its French cousin rillettes, made<br />

with duck and pork, come attractively packaged<br />

in glass jars and were moist and fragrant when<br />

spread on a crispbread. Piping hot wontons were<br />

succulent<br />

pillows of<br />

duck meat.<br />

A variety<br />

of cheeses<br />

including<br />

Wild Nettle<br />

and Black<br />

The Elora Mercantile’s Patti<br />

Boutin, left, and her mother<br />

Michele, are but two of a<br />

large number of irrepressible<br />

personalities that have found a<br />

home in beautiful Elora.<br />

A view of the Grand River as it flows through Elora

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>May</strong>/<strong>June</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 29

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

The Evelyn combines French-inspired fine dining in a<br />

vintage setting, with a warm, unpretentious approach.<br />

Top photo by Mike Nagy @ Transparent Kitchen.<br />

Dessert photo, below, by Dan Dunlop MacLean.<br />

Truffle, onion confit, tender samosas with<br />

a sharp coriander chutney, and many jewel<br />

toned jellies such as Spicy Northern Crab Apple<br />

rounded out the feast. Michele also presented<br />

me with their satiny smooth maple crème brûlée<br />

— I was very sad indeed when it was finished.<br />

Turkey, Meat and Boeuf Bourguignon pies<br />

are also popular take-home items from the<br />

store freezer. It’s clear that Patti understands<br />

that people work hard and deserve a<br />

homemade treat that they can feel good about.<br />

She is already planning the launch of an old<br />

school picnic basket — complete with blanket<br />

and shop selections — that can be enjoyed and<br />

then returned at the end of the day.<br />

The Evelyn (theevelynrestaurant.com)<br />

is an intimate French-inspired restaurant<br />

that combines fine dining with a welcoming,<br />

unpretentious environment. The vintage interior<br />

décor with gilded pineapple light fixtures, an<br />

elegant wall mural and candlelit seating, make<br />

it difficult to believe that The Evelyn has not<br />

yet been open a year. Like many others, owner<br />

MacLean Hann was drawn to the less frenetic<br />

way of life available in Elora and the restaurant<br />

has flourished with the local support and

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

friendliness of the community. The menu offers<br />

five entrées and there are sharing opportunities<br />

in the chaud and froid section such as mussels<br />

or pork terrine. I enjoyed the Coq au Vin (made<br />

with Cornish Game Hen) and a green salad<br />

featuring shaved radish, pickled shallot, roasted<br />

pear and dried cranberries in a chardonnay<br />

vinaigrette which was divine, artfully presented<br />

on blue and white willow china. The portions<br />

were absolutely spot on and left me able to enjoy<br />

an oozing, still slightly warm butter tart served<br />

up with Kawartha ice cream.<br />

Greg Dove has already been working at Elora<br />

Bread Trading Co. (elorabread.ca/our-bread) for<br />

about six hours when we meet at 10 a.m., but<br />

this father of twins still looks freshly scrubbed<br />

and cheerful as the door opens into the moist,<br />

inviting smell of freshly baked bread. Large<br />

bags of flour bear playful names like “Rye<br />

Humour” and Greg is quick to mention 1847<br />

Stone Milling in Fergus (1847.ca) for producing<br />

organic grains and a discriminating product.<br />

The mill actually brought a stone burr mill from<br />

Europe in 2013, once it was clear that they were<br />

going to make a go of it.<br />

Modern Skincare Made with Love<br />

The Forest City’s<br />

all-natural small-batch<br />

skincare company<br />

Locally Handcrafted Curated Boutique<br />

incense, home decor, DIY supplies,<br />

jewellery, crystals, tarot cards, eco-friendly<br />

items and so much more ...<br />

Greg Dove and his small staff at Elora Bread Trading Co.<br />

turn out about 800 loaves every week. Photo: Doug North<br />

Greg and his small staff turn out about<br />

800 loaves every week and well over 1,000 in<br />

peak season. The bakery offers an extensive<br />

selection — choices vary daily — with a<br />

naturally-leavened sourdough as a constant.<br />

Elora Bread Trading Co. also has a tempting<br />

lunch menu and the sandwiches are especially<br />

popular with locals. Quality and sustainability<br />

shine here as well with mayonnaise, hummus<br />

and pesto all made in-house. Greg is a relative<br />

newcomer to Elora and he also cites the warm<br />

support of a community that reflects a united<br />

vision of food integrity.<br />

Elora Brewing Co. ( elorabrewingcompany.<br />

ca) is in a building that was originally an old<br />

111 Mount Pleasant Ave., London<br />

Monday–Friday: 10AM – 6PM<br />

Saturday & Sunday: 10AM – 4PM<br />

+1 519 630 5305<br />

info@purdynatural.ca<br />

purdynatural.ca<br />

Boho Bazaar Night Market<br />

Community is our passion. We support<br />

and sell local, and create events where<br />

everyone can gather and grow together.<br />

Stay updated on events @purdynatural<br />


32 | <strong>May</strong>/<strong>June</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

At neighbourhood bar and restaurant The Porch Light,<br />

you’ll find one of the largest whiskey selections in the<br />

region, along with a lively and friendly atmosphere<br />

hardware store but which has been converted to a<br />

gastropub/craft brewery. It’s a lively, comfortable spot<br />

to have a bite and sample some award-winning beer.<br />

Elora Borealis, a Gold Medal winner at the Ontario<br />

Brewing Awards last year, is clean and fruity and<br />

one of many to choose from, both bottled and on<br />

tap. Locally-sourced menu choices are delicious and<br />

hearty with an emphasis on farm-to-table philosophy<br />

and staff are knowledgeable and pleasant. The EBC’s<br />

interior is yet another example of repurposing, with<br />

the original tin ceiling now adorning the bar and firescarred<br />

beams dating back to the 1800s still visible en<br />

route to the mezzanine level. Spotless stainless steel<br />

vats remind diners that the brewery is directly on site,<br />

lending a cool industrial vibe. It’s obvious that a great<br />

deal of hard work and attention to detail is paying off<br />

and will ensure EBC’s continued success.<br />

The Porch Light (porchlightelora.com) is a singular,<br />

intimate spot that has quickly forged a place in Elora’s<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

heart. With its clever octopus wallpaper<br />

and funky, custom bar stools (made by<br />

local artisan Mike Hintermeister using<br />

re-claimed steel), the general vibe here is<br />

full-on, unapologetically Irish pub. That<br />

is also reflected in its having one of the<br />

largest selections of whiskey in Southern<br />

Ontario, over 30 from around the world<br />

including the twice-distilled Kilbeggan.<br />

Tayto’s Cheese and Onion crisps are<br />

here to go with it too! There is a quirky<br />

selection of specialty cocktails/mocktails<br />

and the companionable website<br />

suggestion that if you don’t see what<br />

you want: “just ask, chances are we can<br />

make it anyway!” Sunday nights herald<br />

the “Porch Light Sessions” with live<br />

music. There are hopes to expand further<br />

outside during the summer months.<br />

An eclectic menu offers many choices<br />

from traditional Irish soup to a selection<br />

of artisanal boards and there is a kids’<br />

menu. All foods are chosen carefully and<br />

the website notes “we know where our<br />

products come from and we are proud to<br />

highlight the best of the best.”<br />

Janet Etherington’s The Cellar Pub &<br />

Grill (thecellarpubelora.com) is enjoying<br />

its ninth year of business. When<br />

asked about the Elora camaraderie<br />

Elora Mill offers a range of unique<br />

rooms and suites, many with<br />

breathtaking views of the Grand<br />

River and the gorge

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

everyone talks about she raises her hands<br />

playfully and smiles, “Born and raised in Fergus!”<br />

She shrewdly recognized early on that<br />

this is where she wanted to be, and that passion<br />

is still evident.<br />

Janet has worked with Chef Kevin Zuber for<br />

many years and<br />

credits his ability<br />

to provide affordable,<br />

quality dishes<br />

(including glutenfree,<br />

vegan, and vegetarian<br />

choices) as<br />

being a big part of<br />

The Cellar’s success.<br />

The menu offers<br />

house specialties<br />

such as Lemon &<br />

Herb Basa Fish and<br />

the salads are especially<br />

noteworthy.<br />

Watermelon and<br />

feta with blueberry<br />

vinaigrette can be<br />

topped with grilled<br />

chicken, salmon,<br />

shrimp or smoked<br />

tofu. A stunning<br />

outside patio at the<br />

back is unexpected<br />

and like entering a<br />

painting, as the river<br />

is silvery calm here<br />

and one can enjoy<br />

a drink watching<br />

ducks (and sometimes<br />

swans) gliding<br />

Enjoy fine dining at<br />

affordable prices at The<br />

Cellar Pub and Grill, by<br />

the river. The Cellar also<br />

offers accommodations<br />

with a river view.<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

Dining<br />

Thames<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

Locally Sourced Ingredients<br />

Authentic Italian Cuisine<br />

Local Craft Beers<br />

Exclusive to Southwestern Ontario<br />

Small-Batch Region-Specific<br />

Organic Wine by the Glass or Bottle<br />

Take Out & Gift Certificates Available<br />

Open for Lunch and Dinner<br />

Tuesday through Saturday<br />

www.fatolive.ca<br />

2135 Dorchester Rd., Dorchester<br />


eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

There’s more than outstanding craft beer at Elora<br />

Brewing Company. The Kitchen supports local farmers<br />

and producers, offers “playful” beer and food pairings,<br />

and even has an on-site butchery. Photos: Doug North<br />

past. Janet is an enthusiastic participant in the<br />

Swan Conservation program and everyone looks<br />

forward to a sighting.<br />

During our time in Elora we were fortunate<br />

enough to stay at The White Garden (febba.ca)<br />

where hosts Karen and David Drimmie offer<br />

a pampered bed and breakfast experience in<br />

the setting of their stately home. Bright, highceilinged<br />

rooms are filled with thoughtfully<br />

placed art and statuary while plants billow freely<br />

out of pots in sunny corners. The atmosphere<br />

here is tranquility — not museum. Our room<br />

was quietly elegant with an excellent bed and<br />

stained glass doors. A private bathroom was<br />

delightful with an oversized shower, modern<br />

fixtures and plenty of hot water. We loved every<br />

minute — including some excellent conversation<br />

and a breakfast served on vintage china.<br />

The Elora Mill (eloramill.ca) has been an<br />

imposing and majestic landmark since it was<br />

built over 175 years ago. Its location offers<br />

dramatic views of both the Gorge and the<br />

Grand River thundering beneath. After a series<br />

of incarnations and sadly, some neglect, the<br />

former grist mill (one of the few five-storey<br />

Ontario mills still in existence) has recently<br />

been transformed into a luxury hotel and spa<br />

by Pearle Hospitality owner, Aaron Ciancone<br />

— but with a genuine sensitivity and respect<br />

not often seen. Twenty seven million dollars<br />

in renovations included carefully repointing<br />

stone, the creation of the Mill’s own power<br />

plant to take advantage of the Grand River’s<br />

hydro potential, thirty opulent guest rooms,<br />

many featuring breath taking views and<br />

every imaginable luxury, ‘The Granary’ with a<br />

rooftop garden suitable for special events and<br />

weddings, and an elegant dining room with<br />

seating overlooking the river and falls. The site<br />

of the Mill’s stables have also been re-imagined<br />

as a new spa complex and incorporates cliffside<br />

views of the gorge.<br />

We enjoyed lunch in Elora Mill’s dining<br />

room which provides an authentic vista to<br />

the river and gorge below. The atmosphere<br />

is stylish but friendly and our server was<br />

especially good. I particularly admired the<br />

staff uniforms, which included long brown<br />

tailored aprons as chic as a Burberry scarf and<br />

flattering to both male and female servers.<br />

The menu offered traditional mains and I<br />

selected the frittata which was sinking with<br />

mushrooms and tangy sheep’s milk cheese;<br />

my partner ordered salmon which was cooked<br />

to flaking pink perfection.<br />

For those who want to combine Elora’s<br />

history, scenic beauty and the Grand River<br />

consider a “punt” tour. These 20-foot Englishstyle<br />

punts, hand-crafted by Ken Thompson,<br />

are similar to gondolas. Thompson’s company,<br />

Elora Raft Rides (eloraraftrides.com) offers<br />

guided or self-piloted options as well as<br />

a myriad of customizations from white<br />

water to twilight tours to specialty (add a<br />

musician, a historian — or a picnic basket!)<br />

to eco-cruising (400 million year old fossils,<br />

anyone?) Thompson notes that the flatbottomed<br />

punts are manageable for seniors<br />

and stringent safety precautions are in place.<br />

Ken’s sincere passion for Elora’s history<br />

presents a unique opportunity to spend some<br />

time on the river.<br />

Choose whatever you want to do in Elora<br />

— you’ll be so glad that you came!<br />

SUE SUTHERLAND-WOOD is a freelance writer and<br />

regular contributor to <strong>Eatdrink</strong>. Read more of Sue’s work<br />

at www.speranzanow.com<br />

DOUG NORTH is an enthusiastic photographer, writer<br />

and historian living in London.<br />

Sue and Doug were guests of ELORA & FERGUS<br />

TOURISM (elorafergus.ca), which did not review or<br />

approve the contents of this article.

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Beer<br />

For the Love of Lager<br />

Craft Brewers Take on Big Beer Brands<br />


<strong>May</strong>/<strong>June</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 35<br />

Big beer, move over. Craft lagers are<br />

gunning for your core brands. Small<br />

batch microbrewers once shunned<br />

making lagers in favour of ales,<br />

mostly because lagers take more tank time<br />

and major brands had lager fans sewn up.<br />

But no more. There’s been an explosion in<br />

the number of thirst-quenching craft lager<br />

offerings as independent brewers respond to<br />

demand from fans for less hoppy options.<br />

Still, don’t expect a craft lager to taste<br />

anything like a Budweiser, the North<br />

American standard for an easy-to-drink pale<br />

ale. Once you start exploring craft lagers<br />

and their clever flavour nuances, Bud will<br />

come across as watery.<br />

(Fun fact: Bud is brewed to exacting<br />

standards of consistency so that, for<br />

example, a Bud brewed in London using<br />

Great Lakes water will taste the same as one<br />

from the original brewery in St. Louis. Craft<br />

lagers could vary batch-to-batch.)<br />

Not every lager from craft brewers is a<br />

pale lager or a pilsner. Helles, marzen, dunkel<br />

and Schwarzbier lager styles are all brewed by<br />

various microbreweries and are more flavourful<br />

lagers to sip and savour.<br />

Fresh and local, craft lagers are where it’s<br />

at from Victoria Day to Labour Day, on decks<br />

and docks everywhere. Here are 12<br />

to seek, taste and compare.<br />

Long Pond Lager, Bayside<br />

Brewing — I’ll bet the folks at this<br />

little brewery on the shore of Lake<br />

Erie pictured a day of fishing when<br />

they developed the recipe for this<br />

honey-aroma lager. Along the way,<br />

they hooked those of us who’ve never cast a<br />

line. The LCBO suggests pairing it with tacos<br />

or burgers. I prefer pairing it with a wood-fired<br />

Bayfield Classic pizza and a waterfront view at<br />

the brewery in pretty Erieau.<br />

Shindig, Cowbell Brewing — A<br />

German-style pilsner brewed in Blyth<br />

using all Canadian barley malt and hops<br />

imported from Germany, Shindig has<br />

become hugely popular. I picture Huron<br />

County farmers reaching for it as a<br />

twilight, end-of-workday reward. True<br />

to style, Shindig is low in bitterness<br />

with a character described as bready.<br />

Square One Pilsner, Square<br />

Brewing — Can you be a microbrewery<br />

in a beach town and<br />

not offer a lager? Square Brew<br />

in Goderich offers a classic<br />

refresher with Square One, which,

36 | <strong>May</strong>/<strong>June</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Breweries,<br />

Craft Beers, spirits,<br />

Wines, Coolers,<br />

Food trucks, BBQ,<br />

Live MusiC,<br />

GrilLing stage,<br />

BaCkyard GaMes<br />

& MuCh More!<br />

WesternFairDistrict<br />

@WesternFair<br />


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>May</strong>/<strong>June</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 37<br />


JUNE 14&15<br />

FRI @ 6PM-11PM | SAT @ 12PM-5PM | SAT @ 6PM-11PM<br />


SLOAN<br />









845 Florence St. London, ON

38 | <strong>May</strong>/<strong>June</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

like Cowbell’s Shindig, is brewed with Canadian<br />

malt and German hops. Square also does a<br />

Vienna-style lager, which is dark and malty,<br />

called Vienna is Waiting.<br />

Daly Pil, Herald Haus Brewing — The yearold<br />

Stratford brewery has a new light pilsner<br />

which hasn’t yet passed my<br />

lips. It’s 4.7 per cent alcohol<br />

and described by the brewery<br />

as classically crisp. Herald<br />

Haus also has Dingman Dark<br />

Lager, named in honour of<br />

Stratford’s first mayor, brewed with intensely<br />

dark (and local) Midnight wheat malt.<br />

Oops, It Fell Out, Stonepicker Brewing<br />

Co. — This pilsner from a farm-based brewery<br />

in Forest uses barley malted on<br />

site. At 5.75 per cent alcohol, it’s<br />

more potent than most and at 5<br />

IBU, it’s the malt-forward anti-IPA.<br />

Undertone, Storm Stayed<br />

Brewing — The beer board<br />

constantly gets revised as recipes<br />

come and go at this strip mall<br />

microbrewery on Wharncliffe Road<br />

in London. Undertone’s<br />

cool factor is that it’s a lager<br />

brewed with purple corn.<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Waterloo Craft Lager — One of Ontario’s<br />

oldest continuously operating craft<br />

breweries, Waterloo Brewing marks<br />

a milestone 35 years of beer-making<br />

by introducing a new lager — a yin<br />

to the yang of Waterloo Dark. Widely<br />

distributed at the Beer Store and LCBO,<br />

this new craft lager is<br />

sessionable at 4.7 per cent<br />

alcohol, and versatile with<br />

summertime food pairings.<br />

Waterloo Pilsner —<br />

Waterloo Craft Lager’s older and<br />

wiser sibling has more bitterness<br />

and is highly touted for pairing<br />

with seafoods from calamari to<br />

fish and chips.<br />

Liquid Schwartz, Forked<br />

River Brewing — Some<br />

like it dark. Lagers need not<br />

be light and sessionable.<br />

London’s Forked River brews<br />

#ItsWhatWeDrink<br />


144 DOWNIE ST, STRATFORD, ON 519 • 814 • 7926<br />


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

a Schwarzbier dark lager which, last I checked,<br />

was still available at the 45 Pacific Court<br />

brewery. As the brewery says, think roasty<br />

pilsner. Better suited to cool weather, Liquid<br />

Schwartz still resonates as a ratcheting down<br />

from ports and stouts.<br />

London Natural Lager, London Brewing<br />

— The microbrew co-op on Burbrook Place<br />

made beer drinkers throughout<br />

Southwestern Ontario stand up and<br />

take notice with this flavourfulyet-accessible<br />

lager recipe. London<br />

Natural Lager is brewed in the<br />

Munich helles style. They’ve used<br />

North American Sterling hops, which<br />

provide a spice and herb aroma.<br />

Available in distinctive silver cans at<br />

the brewery, Beer Store, and LCBO,<br />

remember to pour it in a nonic glass<br />

or, in a pinch, a red Solo cup. Pairs best with<br />

hot summer nights, campfires, and loons.<br />

Country Pilsner, Ramblin’ Road Brewery<br />

Farm — They don’t mind taking it slow down<br />

on the farm. Czech-style and richly-flavoured,<br />

Country Pilsner starts smooth and ends bitter.<br />

<strong>May</strong>/<strong>June</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 39<br />

It pairs with sausage, chicken,<br />

and fish as main courses or light<br />

desserts such as fresh berries with<br />

whipped cream, according to the<br />

brewery’s cheat sheet. Ramblin’<br />

Road is near Delhi.<br />

Astro Pils, Sons of<br />

Kent Brewing —<br />

Chatham-based Sons of<br />

Kent takes a page from both German<br />

and Czech pilsner styles to create<br />

Astro Pils. They’ve used both Czech<br />

Saaz hops and German Select. The<br />

result, as expected, is a crisp beer.<br />

It’s 5 per cent alcohol and at 32 IPU,<br />

bitterness beckons with a whisper<br />

and a wink.<br />

Lager Alternatives<br />

If your favourite craft brewery doesn’t have a<br />

lager, reach for a cream ale or American pale ale.<br />

Great local examples are Anderson Cream Ale<br />

and Homecoming APA from Powerhouse.<br />

GEORGE MACKE is a Southwestern Ontario craft beer<br />

explorer who spends too much time at the LCBO.<br />

Road Trip!<br />




40 |<br />

Wine<br />

Cool Ontario Chardonnays<br />

A Crisp Taste of Our Climate<br />


Ontario is a cool<br />

climate wine<br />

region, but<br />

what does that<br />

really mean?<br />

Because of the lower<br />

temperatures, grapes<br />

grown in cool climates<br />

tend to preserve their<br />

acidity. The wines tend<br />

to be crisper and often<br />

lower in alcohol.<br />

The fruit flavours<br />

lean towards tree<br />

fruits such as<br />

apple and peach<br />

rather than tropical<br />

fruit notes like<br />

pineapple.<br />

Some wines,<br />

such as chardonnay,<br />

tend to express the<br />

climate that the grapes are grown in.<br />

The I4C<br />

The 9th annual I4C, or International Cool<br />

Climate Chardonnay Celebration, runs from<br />

Friday, July 19 to Sunday July 21 in Niagara,<br />

Ontario. Winemakers from cool climate<br />

regions around the world will converge to<br />

talk, sip, and share the chardonnays that they<br />

have produced. Tickets for the weekend-long<br />

event are already on sale and some of the<br />

popular events sell out fast.<br />

The I4C offers a choice of wine, food and<br />

educational experiences that will showcase<br />

Ontario’s most popular and most planted<br />

grape, along with cool climate chardonnays<br />

from other regions around the world such as<br />

Chablis and Champagne France, Southern<br />

Australia, Northern California, New Zealand<br />

and Nova Scotia.<br />

Popular events such as “Flights of<br />

Chardonnay” offer those attending the<br />

opportunity to taste chardonnays poured<br />

by the winemakers from regions around the<br />

world. The event is held at the Niagara District<br />

Airport and features five Niagara restaurants<br />

offering small bites (for a fee) that pair well<br />

with cool climate chardonnays.<br />

On Saturday July 20 the Canadian Food and<br />

Wine Institute will host a cool climate world<br />

tour tasting and dinner at Niagara College.<br />

This event is often the pinnacle event of the<br />

weekend.<br />

Grape Growers of Ontario will also host<br />

an event on Saturday afternoon called “Kick<br />

The Dirt.” Those attending this event tour<br />

vineyards in Niagara and meet with the some<br />

of the passionate grape growers. The growers<br />

will discuss the soils, climate, and the vine

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

management techniques used to produce<br />

their award winning chardonnays.<br />

HAPPENS!<br />

A total of 50 wineries (28 Ontario and<br />

22 from other regions) will be showcasing<br />

chardonnay over the weekend, in seven<br />

organized tasting events. Visit the I4C<br />

website at CoolChardonnay.org for more<br />

information on the events, times and prices.<br />

Why Choose Chardonnay?<br />

Chardonnay is a versatile grape. It can be aged in<br />

oak to add flavour complexity. It can be used to<br />

make sparkling wine and can also be fermented<br />

dry or left with a touch of sweetness.<br />

Chardonnay is grown in all three of<br />

Ontario’s VQA wine appellations.<br />

Approximately 125 wineries in Ontario<br />

produce chardonnay. It is used in 18% of<br />

Ontario’s annual total production and is<br />

most often fermented to a dry style.<br />

Here are several of Ontario’s cool<br />

climate chardonnays for you to<br />

consider.<br />

Fielding 2017 Unoaked<br />

Chardonnay (Vintages #164491,<br />

$15.95) — This is a clean, fruit<br />

forward chardonnay.<br />

Red apple, melon, and<br />

nectarine fruits linger<br />

on the palate for quite<br />

some time. It is crisp,<br />

clean and refreshing. An<br />

easy sipping wine that highlights<br />

Ontario’s cooler climate.<br />

Consider serving this one as<br />

an aperitif, or with some light<br />

appetizers.<br />

Southbrook 2016 Triomphe<br />

Organic Chardonnay<br />

(Vintages #172338, $24.95) —<br />

Quite a complex chardonnay.<br />

Fresh peach, lemon, and green<br />



Spring<br />

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Wed–Sun<br />

12-6<br />

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LAKE<br />

HURON<br />

21<br />

Grand<br />

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Aberarder Line<br />

21<br />

402<br />

London<br />

77 km<br />

Available at the winery, select LCBOs & farmers’ markets<br />

5547 Aberarder Line, Plympton-Wyoming<br />

519-899-2479 • altonfarmsestatewinery.com<br />

Winemaking<br />

at Its Finest<br />

Premium quality handcrafted wine<br />

at an affordable price<br />

150 Exeter Road, London 519-652-3998<br />

somersetfinewines.com<br />

OPEN TUES–FRI 10am–7pm & SAT 9am–4pm

42 | <strong>May</strong>/<strong>June</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />




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TOURS<br />


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>May</strong>/<strong>June</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 43<br />

Experience Canada’s Hottest Wine Region<br />

MAKE IT AN<br />


SAVE THE DATE FOR OUR <strong>2019</strong>/2020 EVENTS<br />

Dip Into Summer<br />

<strong>May</strong> 25 & 26, <strong>2019</strong><br />

EPIC Vintage Tasting<br />

August 11, <strong>2019</strong><br />

Meet the Makers<br />

February 8 & 9, 2020<br />

March MAC’ness<br />

March 7 & 8, 2020<br />

Taste the Season<br />

November 23 & 24, <strong>2019</strong><br />


44 | <strong>May</strong>/<strong>June</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

apples, ginger spice, butterscotch, and vanilla.<br />

With a medium plus body it has some weight<br />

to it. Ontario’s cool climate is expressed in the<br />

vibrant acidity that leads to a lingering finish.<br />

Will pair nicely with creamy Parmesan garlic<br />

mushroom chicken.<br />

Cave Spring Estate 2016 Chardonnay<br />

(Vintages #256552, $19.95) — Fresh green<br />

apple notes, lemon peel citrus. Lighter in<br />

style than one might expect, resulting in a<br />

graceful, elegant chardonnay. The elevated<br />


BIG<br />

IS COMING!<br />

Reminder:<br />

Visitors Welcome<br />

While Renovations<br />

Are Underway!<br />

Colchester Ridge Estate Winery<br />

108 Essex County Road 50<br />

Harrow ON<br />

519-738-9800<br />

@crewinery<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

acidity allows this wine to be paired<br />

with fried chicken and other fried<br />

dishes.<br />

Flat Rock “The Rusty<br />

Shed” Chardonnay<br />

2016 (Vintages<br />

#1552, $21.75) — This<br />

is a big, full-bodied<br />

chardonnay leading<br />

with oak dominated<br />

notes. Rich and<br />

complex. Apple<br />

and citrus notes<br />

balance the oaky<br />

vanilla very well.<br />

The wine’s creamy texture will<br />

entice anyone who loves this big,<br />

oaky style of wine.<br />

Closson Chase<br />

Vineyard 2016<br />

Chardonnay (Vintages<br />

#148866, $29.95) — The 2017<br />

vintage was released on April<br />

1. Bottles of the 2016 vintage,<br />

which are from a warmer<br />

vintage for Prince Edward<br />

County, are still available<br />

at select locations. Ripe<br />

apple, pear and citrus fruit,<br />

creamy butter, vanilla<br />

and butterscotch notes<br />

complement. Well-balanced<br />

and deliciously complex!<br />

GARY KILLOPS is a CAPS Certified Sommelier who<br />

loves to talk, taste, and write about wine. He shares his<br />

tasting notes on EssexWineReview.com

More Local VQA Chardonnays<br />

Aleksander Estate Winery<br />

2013 Chardonnay, $16.00<br />

Alton Farms Estate Winery<br />

2017 Unoaked Chardonnay, $23.00<br />

2016 Oaked Chardonnay, $16.00<br />

Colchester Ridge Estate Winery<br />

2016 Chardonnay, $13.95<br />

2016 Flagship Chardonnay, $19.95<br />

Colio Estate Wines<br />

2016 Bricklayer’s Predicament Chardonnay, $13.95<br />

2015 Girls’ Night Out Chardonnay, $10.95<br />

Cooper’s Hawk Vineyards<br />

2013 Barrel Fermented Chardonnay, $17.95<br />

2016 Chardonnay Musqué, $16.95<br />

2015 Unoaked Chardonnay, $14.95<br />

Mastronardi Estate Winery<br />

2013 Chardonnay, $14.00<br />

Oxley Estate Winery<br />

2017 Chardonnay, $18.95<br />

Pelee Island Winery<br />

2017 Chardonnay, $12.45<br />

2016 Chardonnay Reserve, $13.95<br />

2012 Chardonnay Vinedressers, $17.95<br />

Sprucewood Shores Estate Winery<br />

2016 Unoaked Chardonnay, $14.95<br />

2016 Barrel Chardonnay Hawk’s Flight<br />

Reserve, $22.15<br />

Viewpoint Estate Winery<br />

2013 Chardonnay, $16.95<br />

Vivace Estate Winery<br />

2016 Chardonnay, $17.00<br />

Open daily year round 11am-5pm<br />

Quality Craft Wines<br />

Beachfront Picnics<br />

www.sprucewoodshores.com 519-738-9253<br />

Enjoy Our Wines, Available at the LCBO<br />

An EPIC Wine Region<br />

that shares latitude,<br />

not attitude.<br />

We pride our winery experiences<br />

as being laid back and fun. Enjoy<br />

our scenic wine route by taking an<br />

unforgettable road trip, or if you’re<br />

feeling adventurous, pedal your way<br />

around the shores.<br />

Fun Fact!<br />

Our EPIC Wine Region shares the same<br />

latitude as some of the worlds most<br />

renowned wine making regions, including<br />

Tuscany.<br />


visitwindsoressex.com<br />

Donna Feore

46 | <strong>May</strong>/<strong>June</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Embrace the<br />

Season, London.<br />

It’s Patio Time!<br />

Savoury<br />

Seasonal<br />

Cuisine<br />

Smoked<br />

Scallops<br />

Tuscan Stuffed Chicken<br />

Large Patio Now Open!<br />

Outdoor Patio<br />

Coming Soon!<br />

Ample<br />

Free<br />

Parking<br />

310 Springbank Drive, London<br />

519.657.1100<br />


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

An Experience to Savour ...<br />

BLACK<br />

Vegan &<br />

Vegetarian<br />

Options<br />


Far Out ...<br />

but we like it that way!<br />

Perfect Venue for Groups, Weddings, Receptions,<br />

Bridal Showers. Rehearsal Lunches & Dinners!<br />

Private Dining Rooms with Audiovisuals<br />

Enjoy Our<br />

Beautiful<br />

& Tranquil<br />

PATIO<br />

NEW<br />

Spring Lunch<br />

& Dinner Menus<br />

Local Craft Beer<br />

Order<br />


Online!<br />


11:30 am–close<br />

523 Richmond St, London www.blacktrumpet.ca<br />

RESERVATIONS: 519-850-1500 | info@blacktrumpet.ca<br />


11am−2pm<br />

Now Open!<br />

Intimate<br />

Outdoor<br />

Courtyard<br />

Blair Blvd<br />

London<br />

International<br />

Airport<br />

Crumlin Rd<br />

Oxford St<br />

MON & TUES: Lunch 11–3<br />

WED, THURS & FRI: Lunch 11–5; Dinner 5–9<br />

Weekends: Breakfast 9–12, Lunch 12–3, Dinner 5–9<br />

Come for the planes and fall in love with the food!<br />

Patio overlooking<br />

the airport runway<br />

NOW OPEN!<br />

519-455-9005<br />

katanakafe.ca<br />

2530 Blair Blvd, London<br />

Diamond Flight Centre<br />

Open 7 Days a Week<br />

Mon/Tues 11:30-10, Wed/Thurs 11:30-11, Fri/Sat 11:30-12, Sun 11-10

48 | <strong>May</strong>/<strong>June</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Theatre<br />

Summertime ...<br />

And the Theatre Is ... Diverse!<br />


It is fair to say there is something for everyone this<br />

summer at regional theatres. An elephant with ties to<br />

St. Thomas (any guesses?) shows up in Blyth, while the<br />

saga of the Donnelly’s from Lucan hits the stage at Port<br />

Stanley. There’s also Canadiana from Norm Foster who goes to<br />

Lunenburg, Nova Scotia and delivers the story home to Lake<br />

Erie. Another legendary Canadian playwright, Dan Needles,<br />

brings his iconic rural reflections twice this season — to Blyth<br />

and also to Port Stanley. And hot on the heels of last summer’s<br />

curling hit comes another comedy by Stratford writer Mark<br />

Crawford, Bed and Breakfast, also at Blyth. This and so much<br />

more is detailed below to help you map out your summer<br />

theatre trips.<br />

While summer theatre is usually lighter fare to match the<br />

carefree season, we are going to be challenged as well. Blyth’s<br />

artistic director Gil Garratt has taken on one of the most serious<br />

crimes of our region, the murders of seniors by former nurse<br />

Elizabeth Wettlaufer, and co-written it into a play. We start our<br />

summer theatre roundup in Blyth, located 95 kilometres north<br />

of London.<br />

Blyth Festival Theatre<br />

Blyth Festival Theatre is celebrating its 45th season with a<br />

deepened commitment to producing Canadian stories for the<br />

stage. It kicks off its anniversary season on <strong>June</strong> 14 with a<br />

world premiere, Jumbo. Anyone who has driven into St. Thomas<br />

will have seen the statue of this famous elephant from P.T.<br />

Barnum’s circus. The statue marks the tragic ending of Jumbo<br />

the elephant, hit and killed by a train in Southwestern Ontario’s<br />

“railway city”. Playwright Sean Dixon and Director Garratt have<br />

set out to tell the story on stage of Jumbo’s fame, which lives on<br />

in local lore. Pass the peanuts and get ready for a nostalgic show.<br />

Heading into Canada Day weekend, Blyth brings back a 1984<br />

premiere, Cakewalk, written by Colleen Curran and directed<br />

by Kelli Fox. Imagine today’s baking wars television shows set<br />

in the 1980s. It is a good thing there are delicious cookies for<br />

sale in the Blyth community hall as you are sure to get hungry<br />

watching this show!<br />

Dan Needles of Wingfield fame has two shows at Blyth this<br />

season. There is a pre-season performance <strong>May</strong> 23–25 of True<br />

Confessions from the Ninth Concession, followed<br />

later in the summer by The Team on the Hill<br />

directed by Severn Thompson.<br />

“This is a season full of spectacle, comedy,<br />

The playlist this season at Blyth Festival Theatre<br />

includes (from the top): Team on the Hill; Jumbo; In the<br />

Wake of Wettlaufer; Cakewalk; and Bed and Breakfast.

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

drama, and current affairs; a season full of<br />

larger-than-life creatures, and true-to-life<br />

stories; a season that exemplifies our mission<br />

to give voice to the region and the country.<br />

Our 45th consecutive season of producing the<br />

best in new Canadian plays,” says Garratt.<br />

Garratt had landed in some controversy<br />

as we went to print over his decision to<br />

co-write and direct a new play which has its<br />

roots in the tragic nursing home murders by<br />

Wettlaufer. At least one family member of a<br />

victim is calling for a boycott of In the Wake of<br />

Wettlaufer. Garratt has publically stated that<br />

he sees the play as a vehicle of change when it<br />

comes to the country’s health system. He has<br />

also shared on Blyth’s social media site how<br />

the play was developed.<br />

In the post Garratt said “long term care in<br />

Ontario is in crisis”, and feels the conversation<br />

created by the play is “urgent, relevant, and<br />

necessary.” Props to Blyth for taking on the<br />

difficult with the charming this season.<br />

The theatre and the impressive Cowbell<br />

Brewery have brought tourism back to this<br />

corner of Huron County. Take some time for a<br />

self-guided tour of the brewing premises and<br />

giving<br />

up the ghost<br />

W ORLD<br />

P RE<br />

M IERE<br />

July 3 to July 20<br />

PortStanleyFestivalTheatre<br />

by Arlin Dixon & Matthew Gorman<br />

519-782-4353 www.psft.ca<br />

show sponsor<br />

W ORLD<br />

P RE<br />

M IERE<br />


FROM JUNE 12 TO SEPTEMBER 28, <strong>2019</strong><br />

1.877.862.5984 BLYTHFESTIVAL.COM<br />



50 | <strong>May</strong>/<strong>June</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

enjoy some local taps for those who are recording beer<br />

tastings in their apps. Cowbell also offers a full menu<br />

for lunch and dinner. It is a busy spot so book ahead.<br />

blythfestival.com<br />

Port Stanley Festival Theatre<br />

The recently renovated Port Stanley Theatre is a perfect<br />

little jaunt from London on a summer’s day or evening.<br />

Allow space in your schedule for the Lake Erie perch<br />

offered at local restaurants. It can’t be beat! The theatre<br />

itself is now licensed and offers drinks before the show<br />

and at intermission on two patios. It is located right on<br />

the harbor in Port Stanley, next to the bridge.<br />

The theatre company has expanded the season from<br />

five to six shows running from <strong>May</strong> 21 to September<br />

7. It is a delightful mix of mystery, music and comedy.<br />

Artistic director Simon Joynes has created quite the<br />

playlist for the summer. “Our <strong>2019</strong> season is an exciting<br />

blend of Canadian stories taking our patrons from the<br />

intimate concert setting of Jeff Culbert’s The Wildest<br />

Town in Canada: Donnelly Songs and Stories to Norm<br />

Foster’s Lunenburg through the world premiere of<br />

Giving Up The Ghost and Jamie Williams’ madcap period<br />

farce It’s Your Funeral. We’re excited by the size of the<br />

season, by the design challenges, and by the fact that it’s<br />

our biggest season to date with six unique productions.”<br />

Joynes explains that they’ve gone to a larger season<br />

because it challenges them to become better at what<br />

they do, and because it increases the variety of programming<br />

that they can offer their patrons. psft.ca<br />

Victoria Playhouse Petrolia<br />

Last year’s hit at the Blyth Festival, The New Canadian<br />

Curling Club, saw a successful run in Alberta this past<br />

winter. It now returns to our region August 6-25 at<br />

Victoria Playhouse Petrolia. This delightful poke at our<br />

obsession with the game is a comedy. New Canadians<br />

learn the skills and traditions from a crusty rink rat<br />

coach. Any curling fan will simply love it.<br />

Victoria Playhouse Petrolia is a busy spot, with the<br />

longest season in our area for local theatre this summer.<br />

It opens on April 30 with a tribute show to Carole<br />

Victoria Playhouse Petrolia<br />

The summer line-up at Port Stanley Festival<br />

Theatre includes (from the top): The Wildest<br />

Town in Canada: Donnelly Songs and Stories,<br />

“Like Father, Like Son? Sorry.”, Lunenburg,<br />

Giving Up The Ghost, and Ed’s Garage.

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>May</strong>/<strong>June</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 51<br />

world curious<br />

London proud<br />

<strong>2019</strong>/20 season Titanic This London Life<br />

between breaths Mary Poppins room<br />

Fully Committed Every Brilliant Thing<br />

Grow The Runner Honour Beat<br />

juno’s reward jeans ’n classics<br />

Subscriptions on sale now<br />

Single tickets on sale July 2<br />

season<br />

sponsor<br />

grandtheatre.com<br />


52 | <strong>May</strong>/<strong>June</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

King and James Taylor and wraps<br />

up fittingly in late October with<br />

Dracula, a Chamber Musical. This<br />

production sees the return of David<br />

Rogers as co-artistic director in the<br />

same production he performed on<br />

the Stratford Festival stage back in<br />

the late 1990s. thevpp.ca<br />

Stratford Festival<br />

Last issue we published a feature<br />

interview with Donna Feore,<br />

choreographer and director at<br />

The Stratford Festival, hot on the<br />

heels of last season’s hit The Rocky<br />

Horror Show. This year she is busy<br />

again at Stratford with two big<br />

shows: Billy Elliot and Little Shop of Horrors.<br />

They both open in late <strong>May</strong>. It looks like an<br />

amazing season at Stratford. Congratulations<br />

to artistic director Antoni Cimolino, who has<br />

had his term extended through to the 2024<br />

season. No surprise there as Stratford posted<br />

a $1.9-million surplus, with a 10% increase<br />

in attendance to 502,605 in 2018. It was<br />

their longest season on record, running into<br />

Stratford Festival presents Shakespeare’s The Merry Wives of Windsor<br />

from <strong>May</strong> 11 – October 26, directed by Antoni Cimolino. Above, from<br />

left: Brigit Wilson, Sophia Walker, and Geraint Wyn Davies.<br />

Creative Direction by Punch & Judy Inc. Photography by David Cooper.<br />

December, thanks to the mega fans of Rocky<br />

Horror. More than 100,000 patrons saw the<br />

show. stratfordfestival.ca<br />

JANE ANTONIAK is a regular contributor to <strong>Eatdrink</strong>.<br />

She is also Manager, Communications & Media Relations,<br />

at King’s University College in London.<br />


Plus get your own car cleaned and detailed!<br />

eatdrink &<br />

Presented by<br />

Enter at facebook.com/eatdrinkmag<br />

Contest ends <strong>June</strong> 24, <strong>2019</strong>. Complete details online.<br />

Congratulations Tom Anguish,<br />

winner of our March/April Draw!

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>May</strong>/<strong>June</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 53<br />

London<br />

The goal of the Culinary Federation of Chefs &<br />

Cooks is to unite chefs and cooks across Canada in a<br />

common dedication to professional excellence. The<br />

Federation was founded in 1963 and incorporated<br />

in Ottawa as a non-profit association in 1972.<br />

Throughout its history as Canada’s largest federally<br />

chartered professional chefs’ organization, the name<br />

of the federation has undergone several changes to<br />

recognize the chef’s continually changing role in the<br />

kitchen and education. Membership in the Culinary<br />

Federation is available to any and all persons with<br />

career paths as a Cook Apprentice, Journeyman<br />

Cook, Professional Chef/Cook or Culinary<br />

Professional. culinaryfederation.ca<br />

Congratulations to Vanessa and Pete Willis of<br />

The Church Key Bistro-Pub. Downtown London’s<br />

landmark restaurant with farm-to-table cuisine<br />

and an impressive selection of wine and craft beers<br />

is celebrating 10 years in business on <strong>May</strong> 1. 476<br />

Richmond St. 519-936-0960, thechurchkey.ca<br />

We’re crazy for the gnocchi at Radu Rotariu’s<br />

recently opened Bocconcini at Southdale and<br />

Hyde Park Road. Chef David Taylor’s pillowy<br />

potato dumplings with braised beef, cabernet and<br />

wild mushrooms are authentic and classic Italian<br />

cuisine. The manicotti is out of this world and the<br />

silky tiramisu otherworldly. 1140 Southdale Road<br />

West, 519 601-7799<br />

Eduard Nagy and Anita Tasonyi have taken<br />

over operations at London’s landmark Budapest<br />

Restaurant. Signature dishes include a variety of<br />

superb schnitzels, chicken paprikash, goulash and<br />

The BUZZ<br />

Culinary Community Notes<br />

More than just a Coffee Shop!<br />

iconic Hungarian cabbage rolls. The restaurant<br />

has long served as one of the city’s quintessential<br />

European restaurants for dining out. The familyrun<br />

restaurant offers banquet facilities and is<br />

available for lunch and dinner parties, celebrations,<br />

business meetings, and weddings. There is a<br />

seasonal street-side patio. 348 Dundas Street, 519-<br />

439-3431, budapestrestaurant.net<br />

Angelina & Carmine Ianni, formerly of Pasquales,<br />

opened C’Angelina and retail prepared foods and<br />

fresh meats as well as offering family-style catering<br />

— including BBQ whole pigs. Check out the sausage<br />

making classes. You also will find them at London<br />

festivals this summer and at the Pinery Market in<br />

Grand Bend. 426 Third St, Tuesday–Friday, 1–6 p.m.<br />

facebook.com/cangelinameatcatering/<br />

Aroma of India owner Venkat Matta and chef Sunil<br />

Kumar offer well-seasoned Indian cookery with<br />

plant-based, lamb, chicken and shrimp dishes at<br />

different levels of spice. We like the crisp onion<br />

bhajias and spicy Chana Masala. There are varieties<br />

of locally-brewed Coolindia featuring traditional<br />

Sanskrit names on offer. Open for lunch and dinner.<br />

Closed Mondays, 350 Dundas Street, 519-601-5353,<br />

aromaofIndia.ca<br />

Olha and Anatolii Prytkova’s family-owned<br />

Happiness Coffee and Desserts, on Wellington<br />

Street across from One London Place, features<br />

European-style coffee and scratch baking, including<br />

seasonal and specialty cakes, macarons, cupcakes<br />

and chocolates. The name Happiness comes from<br />

when the Prytkovas were home in Ukraine. A friend<br />

bought a box of cakes that Olha had baked and said<br />

PATIO<br />

OPEN!<br />

24<br />

Gelato<br />

Flavours!<br />

Including Gluten-Free,<br />

Vegan & Dairy-<br />

Free Options<br />

Gelato to Go in ½ litre & 1 litre containers<br />

Try our new Gelato Paninis!<br />

Pour Over Coffee Bar<br />

Iced Coffee<br />

Open Daily 8am–9pm<br />

825 Southdale Rd W, London<br />

519-652-1607<br />


54 | <strong>May</strong>/<strong>June</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

it was like a box of happiness, and the name stuck.<br />

430 Wellington St., 519-204-2854<br />

Edo Peljhi of Garlic’s of London is this year’s<br />

recipient of the Fanshawe College Tourism,<br />

Hospitality and Culinary Arts award for Industry<br />

Supporter of the Year. There is tremendous<br />

demand for trained hospitality professionals across<br />

the globe, and Fanshawe’s programs provide a solid<br />

foundation to set participants on a career path that<br />

could take them anywhere in the world.<br />

“Elles sont Food, and You?” is open to women<br />

chefs, sous-chefs, pastry chefs, cooks and food<br />

entrepreneurs, living in Ontario and involved in<br />

the gastronomy scene. The culinary competition<br />

is an event organized by the Consulate General<br />

of France in Toronto, in partnership with the Ted<br />

Rogers School of Hospitality and Management,<br />

Ryerson University. The goal for the participants is<br />

to showcase the culinary culture of Ontario and/or<br />

France by creating the best cocktail party possible.<br />

For this, they will have to rely not only on the<br />

specificity of French culinary culture but also on<br />

the diversity and richness of Ontario cuisine with<br />

the objective of showcasing the best local Canadian<br />

and/or French ingredients.ellessontfoodandyou.ca<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

The <strong>2019</strong> Hospitality Awards Gala, presented<br />

by the Ontario Restaurant Hotel and Motel<br />

Association›s London Region, will take place<br />

at the London Convention Centre on <strong>June</strong> 17.<br />

londonhospitalityawards.com<br />

There are plenty of changes for brothers Gregg<br />

and Justin Wolfe this spring. Originally, the Wolfe<br />

brothers had planned to refigure the recently<br />

closed Wolfe of Wortley space to build a new<br />

pizzeria, but after finding the London Pride Fish<br />

and Chips on Chester Street at Ridout vacant, they<br />

altered their vision. They will now be opening the<br />

pizzeria which they will call Through Thick and<br />

Thin in the London Pride space. More recently, they<br />

opened a smaller incarnation of The Early Bird —<br />

their iconic downtown diner — known as the Little<br />

Bird Café in the former Wolfe of Wortley space.<br />

The brothers had already taken over the former<br />

premises of the Village Harvest Bakery next door<br />

and plan to expand and rebrand as The Wolfe Pack<br />

Company Bar. The brothers also own and operate<br />

Los Lobos — think modern Mexican flavours, with<br />

innovative riffs and ideas with lots of cool Mexican<br />

imagery and local references. London watches for<br />

their next moves with great interest!

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

We popped by Wortley Village’s hospitable Bake<br />

Shop Studio to visit owner Kate St Laurent and her<br />

hospitable crew. This boutique bakery specializes<br />

in beautiful, made-from-scratch cakes and pastries.<br />

When they aren’t baking they offer hands-on<br />

baking classes and mentorship for artisan bakers.<br />

They are open Thursday and Friday 11-4pm and<br />

Saturdays 10am-2pm. A selection of small pastries<br />

and cupcakes are available to purchase for walk-in<br />

clients. One of London’s well-kept secrets, the<br />

bakery is located upstairs at 145 Wortley Road.<br />

bakeshopstudio.com<br />

From Pottage to Pinperneau: The Eldon House<br />

Cookbooks. This exhibit will display and interpret<br />

several historical cookbooks in the museum’s<br />

collection and elaborate on the origins, uses and<br />

terminology of these wonderful examples of social<br />

history. The Eldon House Collection holds several<br />

books of cookery — from printed materials to hand<br />

inscribed “receipt” books. Historical cookbooks<br />

contain more than just tips on turning a “joint of<br />

meat to perfection;” they are encyclopedias of<br />

domestic advice, encompassing recipes for home<br />

remedies and medicinal treatments as well as<br />

delicious desserts. <strong>June</strong> through November.<br />

Afternoon tea on the beautiful lawn of Eldon House,<br />

overlooking the Thames River, returns July 2<br />

through August 25, Tuesday through Sunday. Light<br />

Tea is $15.00 (incl. HST) per person and includes a<br />

scone with butter and jam, fresh fruit and a small<br />

dessert item. Full Tea is $26.00 (incl. HST) per<br />

person and includes tea sandwiches, a scone with<br />

butter and jam, fresh fruit and a variety of dessert<br />

items (24 hour advanced registration). 481 Ridout<br />

St. North, eldonhouse.ca<br />

If you love beer and grilled foods you can’t ask for<br />

a better place to enjoy the true tastes of summer<br />

than at the London Beer and BBQ Show on <strong>June</strong> 14<br />

and 15. Highlights for this year include unique BBQ<br />

and Beer flavours — grill experts are on hand with<br />

live cooking demonstrations. Watch the eatdrink.<br />

ca website for more updates on this show, which<br />

has earned a permanent spot on the <strong>June</strong> calendar.<br />

New this year: Saturday will be divided into an<br />

afternoon and an evening show. Admission includes<br />

a performace by rockers Sloan on Friday night, and<br />

country favourites The Reklaws on Saturday night.<br />

westernfairdistrict.com/beer-bbq-show<br />

Willie’s Café continues to grow and thrive in the<br />

London Food Incubator at 630 Dundas and will be<br />

celebrating two years at the new location at the<br />

beginning of <strong>June</strong>. Ian Kennard has expanded the<br />

seating with more tables, comfy chairs and a new<br />

London’s New Culinary Adventure!<br />

African Breakfast<br />

Sundays<br />

“Reasonably priced, fresh, well-executed<br />

Ethiopian cuisine ...” — Bryan Lavery, <strong>Eatdrink</strong><br />


<strong>May</strong>/<strong>June</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 55<br />

• Vegetarian &<br />

Vegan Options<br />

• Takeout<br />

• Catering<br />

• Reservations<br />

Recommended<br />

ADDIS ABABA Restaurant<br />

Tuesday–Sunday 11am–10pm by reservation<br />

Closed Monday<br />

465 Dundas Street 519 433-4222<br />

www.tgsaddisababarestaurant.com<br />

Loose Leaf Teas & Tisanes<br />

•<br />

Contemporary & Traditional Teaware<br />

•<br />

Fresh Soups, Salads, Cheese Boards,<br />

Fresh-baked Scones,<br />

Tea<br />

& Chocolate<br />

Pairing with<br />

Sweet Brigadeiros<br />

Fri., <strong>May</strong> 24<br />

Desserts<br />

Mother’s<br />

Day Traditional<br />

Afternoon Tea<br />

Sun., <strong>May</strong> 12<br />

Noon–2pm<br />

Petojo<br />

@ the Lounge<br />

Indonesian Plantbased<br />

Pop-up &<br />

Tea Pairing Dinner<br />

Sat., <strong>June</strong> 8 268 Piccadilly Street<br />

(beside Oxford Book Store)<br />

519-601-TEAS (8327) • tealoungelondon.com<br />

WED & THURS 11am-6pm • FRI & SAT 11am-9pm • SUN noon–5pm

56 | <strong>May</strong>/<strong>June</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

cozy dining area. There is inexpensive municipal<br />

parking off of Queens Ave. and customers are<br />

welcome to use the entrance accessible from the<br />

parking lot. Check out some of the new menu items,<br />

including house-made sodas, lemonades and<br />

specialty desserts. Willie’s continues to provide<br />

catering services with a focus on office/corporate<br />

lunches. willescafeandcatering.com<br />

The outdoor Farmers’ Market at Covent Garden<br />

Market is held on Saturdays from 8 a.m.–1p.m.,<br />

through to December. New this year is a Night<br />

Market on Thursdays from 4–7p.m.<br />

Freshly home-made in the heart of the community<br />

The<br />

Village<br />

Teapot<br />

Licensed<br />

Dine In & Take Out<br />

Catering & Private Events<br />

Breakfast • Brunch • Lunch • Cream Teas<br />

Wed–Fri 10:30–3:30<br />

Sat & Sun 10–2<br />

Reservations<br />

Recommended<br />

Check our website<br />

for our Sunday<br />

Roast Events!<br />

13257 Ilderton Road, Ilderton ON<br />

thevillageteapot.ca<br />

519-298-TEAS (8327)<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

LULU Magazine invites you to enjoy The Latin<br />

American Festival. Experience Latin American art,<br />

music, rhythms and iconic Latin American food in the<br />

Covent Garden Market Square. There will be a Salsa<br />

and Bachata contest. Saturday, <strong>June</strong> 1, 2–11p.m.<br />

FIESTA London Mexican Festival brings the<br />

sounds, culture and tastes of Mexico to Downtown<br />

London outside in the Covent Garden Market<br />

Square. Sunday, <strong>June</strong> 2, 11a.m.–9 p.m.<br />

The London Multicultural Festival is a colourful<br />

and family-friendly event offering an opportunity<br />

to have a great time with your family and friends.<br />

Enjoy the diversity, visit the multi-cultural displays,<br />

watch the performers and taste globally-inspired<br />

food at Covent Garden Market Square. Sunday <strong>June</strong><br />

9, 11 a.m.–5 p.m.<br />

The Saturday and Sunday Market at Western Fair<br />

is a popular destination for chefs, cooks and food<br />

enthusiasts in search of a wide variety of artisanal<br />

products and seasonal ingredients. Market-goers<br />

love the Market because they can buy high-quality,<br />

farm-fresh goods directly from the person who<br />

produced them, and can find unique products not<br />

available elsewhere in the city. The second floor<br />

Artisans’ Market features over 40 permanent<br />

vendors and a rotating roster of weekly market<br />

table vendors providing friendly personalized<br />

service. Experience a variety of artisans’<br />

products from the culinary arts to the fine arts.<br />

westernfairdistrict.com/market<br />

Recently opened Mint Leaves Indian Kitchen is<br />

geared to serving speedy dine-in or takeaway<br />

cuisine. The owners bring some of the best<br />

authentic Indian cuisines to London. We loved<br />

the fiery Rogan Josh with tender morsels of beef,<br />

the savoury Chicken Biryani and the succulent<br />

Lamb Masala. The chickpea flour pakoras are<br />

crisp and melt in your mouth. Mint Leaves serves<br />

properly prepared Dosa (a type of crepe made from<br />

Featuring<br />

Creative Menus<br />

from Chefs<br />

Erryn Shephard<br />

&<br />

Ben Sandwith<br />

Always Available<br />

for Caterings!<br />

519.238.6224<br />

42 Ontario St. S., Grand Bend<br />

www.finearestaurant.com<br />

Lunch and Dinner — Seasonal Hours<br />

Reservations Recommended

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

In Memoriam<br />

Remembering Tibor Homolay<br />

(A long-serving career hospitality professional)<br />

A Letter from Nino Basacco<br />

I realize this may not be a normal letter, but I need<br />

to let people know of the sudden passing of Tibor<br />

Homolay. For over a decade Tibor was a great<br />

server in our family restaurant. His enthusiasm<br />

and laughter will no longer sound in the dining<br />

room of La Casa, but many of you will always<br />

remember his good cheer and his ceaseless<br />

energy trying to make sure everyone enjoyed their<br />

dining experience.<br />

A proud Hungarian, he claimed he could speak<br />

five languages, including Italian, and yes, he<br />

could. He could also make you dizzy with his<br />

knowledge of wines and foods. And his awareness<br />

of what was going on in the world made for some<br />

very lively discussions.<br />

La Casa will miss Tibor, but not like his dear wife<br />

Maria Homolay (long-time server at Michaels On<br />

The Thames) and daughter Christina will. Our<br />

hearts go out to them. We hope in the next few<br />

days we will be able to host a memorial tribute for<br />

Tibor at La Casa. If you were ever served by Tibor,<br />

you might want to drop into La Casa and sign our<br />

Book of Grateful Memories.<br />

fermented batter) that is stuffed with potato and<br />

served with two varieties of chutney and sambar.<br />

1080 Adelaide St. N., 519-601-9494<br />

The menu at TG’s Addis Ababa Restaurant features<br />

an outstanding offering of elaborately spiced and<br />

perfectly prepared Ethiopian specialties from the East<br />

African culinary canon. Be sure to put TG›s Ethiopian<br />

breakfast on your list for a great culinary adventure<br />

on Sundays. 465 Dundas Street (at Maitland), 519-433-<br />

4222, tgsaddisababarestaurant.com<br />

<strong>May</strong>/<strong>June</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 57<br />

Billy’s Deli has been a downtown landmark for<br />

over 30 years. For lunch, specialty deli sandwiches<br />

like the quintessential Reuben and Montreal<br />

smoked meat are made with a quarter pound of<br />

meat, warm and sliced off the brisket. Interesting<br />

daily blackboard specials are enticing and add<br />

seasonality to the extensive menu. Billy’s is<br />

known for the baking and we love the Potato Latke<br />

Breakfast with Octoberfest sausage, two eggs,<br />

toast, apple sauce and sour cream. 113 Dundas<br />

Street at Talbot, 519-679-1970<br />

Altogether different...<br />

and so very, very tasty!<br />

Catering excellence since 1985<br />

Weddings Pineridge Barbecue Co<br />

Corporate Events<br />

Hensall, ON<br />

Backyard Shakers 1-888-241-8450<br />

Celebrations of Life pineridgebbq.com<br />

Benmiller Inn & Spa<br />

as always, like never before<br />

www.benmiller.ca | 519-524-2191 | 1-800-265-1711

“a gastronomical landmark for over 23 years”<br />

Bistro & Catering<br />

Dietary Needs Lunch Accommodated Mon–Fri<br />

Ample Free Dinner Parking Mon–Sat<br />

Available for Private Parties<br />

46 Blackfriars Street, London | 519-667-4930<br />

blackfriarsbistro.com<br />


HALF PRICE Sharing Plates & Oysters<br />

Tuesday–Friday from 3:30–5:30pm<br />


20% OFF!<br />

New Summer Menus & Cocktails!<br />

TUES–SAT Lunch & Dinner 11:30am to Close<br />

SUNDAY Brunch 11am & Dinner<br />

449 Wharncliffe Road South<br />

519.914.2699<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

At Waldo’s on King Bistro & Wine Bar, chef/owner<br />

Mark Kitching’s talented culinary brigade offer<br />

traditional bistro-style selections. This is where<br />

you will find the best organic burger in town. Uberbartender<br />

Greg Simpson rocks the bar at Waldo’s<br />

several nights a week. 130 King Street, (Covent<br />

Garden Market) 519-433-6161<br />

The London Food Truck Association is now booking<br />

for spring and summer events. Reach out for<br />

more information or to find the weekly schedule.<br />

facebook.com/londonfoodtrucks/<br />

PC Cooking Schools at Superstore offer one-hour<br />

weekly daytime “What’s for Dinner?” classes on<br />

Thursdays, Oxford and Gammage 12:30-1:30 p.m.;<br />

Oxford and Hyde Park Road 1-2 p.m. Both locations<br />

offer a schedule of evening classes that run 6:30-<br />

8:30 p.m. Gammage location: “Gluten-Free Seafood<br />

Sensations” with Ankita Vaidya on <strong>May</strong> 7;”Dinner and<br />

a Book Club - The Nest” (Cynthia D’Aprix Sweeney)<br />

with Chef Barbara Toomer on <strong>May</strong> 14; “Early Summer<br />

BBQ Favourites” with PC Cooking School Chef on <strong>May</strong><br />

28; “Fruitful Dining” with Chef Jamie Chows on <strong>June</strong><br />

4; “PC Summer Insiders Collection” on <strong>June</strong> 11; and<br />

“Celebrate Like the Masters” with Van Houtte Coffee<br />

on <strong>June</strong> 13, 6:30-8:30 pm. Hyde Park location: “Street<br />

Foods of Egypt” with Paul Abeleira on <strong>May</strong> 7; “Early<br />

Summer BBQ Favourites” with PC Cooking School<br />

Chef on <strong>May</strong> 24; “Quick but Delicious French Stews”<br />

with Chef Barbara Toomer on <strong>May</strong> 27; “PC Summer<br />

Insiders Collection” on <strong>June</strong> 7; “Celebrate Like the<br />

Masters” with Van Houtte Coffee on <strong>June</strong> 10; and<br />

“East meets West Indian Fusion” with Ankita Vaidya<br />

on <strong>June</strong> 25.<br />

Stratford<br />

Stratford Tourism Alliance (STA) celebrates<br />

#nextgen chefs in the 25th edition of the Stratford<br />

Culinary Guide, a staple for restaurants, pubs,<br />

cafés, food shops and producers in Stratford and<br />

area. It continues to be a go-to source for culinary<br />

information in Stratford. The guide was officially<br />

launched at a pop-up event at Richmond Station<br />

in Toronto, owned by Stratford Chefs School’s<br />

graduates and partners, Ryan Donovan and Carl<br />

Heinrich. <strong>Eatdrink</strong> magazine, Food Editor Bryan<br />

Lavery and other media guests were treated to<br />

tastes created by Stratford Chefs School alumni<br />

by Jamie Crosby of The Prune, Meaghan Evely and<br />

Vincent Stacey from Pazzo Taverna & Pizzeria and<br />

Ryan O’Donnell of Mercer Hall. Craft beverages<br />

were served by Junction 56 Distillery and Black<br />

Swan Brewing Company. The <strong>2019</strong> guide features 12<br />

#nextgen Stratford chef photos in the print version<br />

which is available at Stratford Tourism, local<br />

accommodators and Ontario Travel Centres. Thirty-

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

seven restaurants, food shops and producers<br />

from Stratford and area are featured in the guide.<br />

A digital version of the guide is available online<br />

VisitStratford.ca/culinaryguide<br />

The Stratford Blues & Ribfest will be kicking<br />

off the summer <strong>June</strong> 21 to 23. This is an outdoor<br />

family-friendly gathering with slow-cooked<br />

BBQ and all types of Blues music in support<br />

of the Boy Scouts and Girls Guides. Licensed<br />

beverages will be available at the bandshell area.<br />

stratfordbluesandribfest.com<br />

Do you want to attend a world-class event<br />

that showcases and supports local agriculture<br />

and features tastings, pairings and delicious<br />

garlic dishes? Then mark your calendar for the<br />

Stratford Kiwanis Garlic Festival, September 7-8.<br />

Keep an eye on the Facebook page for updates.<br />

stratfordgarlicfestival.com<br />

Chef Kris Schlotzhauer and Pastry Chef Suzy<br />

Schlotzhauer recently changed operating hours to<br />

offer dinner service at AO Pasta. Dine inside or on<br />

the patio or order take-out. aopasta.com<br />

The Mill Stone Restaurant & Bar features<br />

seasonally-inspired lunch, dinner and late-night<br />

menus using many locally procured ingredients.<br />

A couple of back tables overlook the Avon River,<br />

and there is a small street-side patio. This year the<br />

restaurant features a late night pop-up snack bar<br />

with a Lao-inspired menu on Saturdays from 10<br />

p.m. to 2 a.m. (Yes, the kitchen is open till 2a.m.). 30<br />

Ontario St., Stratford, 519-273-5886, themillstone.ca<br />

Anne Campion of Revel is committed to the core<br />

values of social justice and serves ethically and<br />

sustainably produced direct trade coffee. She<br />

can be seen pulling espresso shots or making<br />

consistently perfect cortados at Revel, her busy<br />

coffee shop off Stratford’s Market Square. “Our<br />

desire to be for the good of our community, both<br />

locally and globally, informs all our decisions,”<br />

<strong>May</strong>/<strong>June</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 59<br />

says Campion. Launched with the assistance<br />

of just two staff, Campion now employs 18. Two<br />

pastry chefs now bake all of Revel’s pastries in<br />

house, using products from many local farmers.<br />

revelstratford.ca<br />

Celebrate the young stars of this year’s Kiwanis<br />

Festival of the Performing Arts Stratford. Your<br />

family and friends will love the SSO Sunday Brunch<br />

Concert Series at Revival House, offering farm fare,<br />

craft brews, wine and music. These fundraising<br />

events feature local performers in support of the<br />

LUNCH Wed to Fri 11:30–2:30<br />

DINNER from 5pm daily<br />

432 Richmond Street<br />

at Carling • London<br />

ALWAYS<br />

a 3-course prix fixe<br />

menu option<br />

www.davidsbistro.ca<br />

481 Richmond Street<br />

519-432-4092<br />


eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Outdoor Farmers’ Market<br />

Opening Day: Saturday, <strong>May</strong> 4, 8am–1pm<br />

NEW this year! Thursday Night Markets,<br />

starting <strong>May</strong> 9, 4pm–7pm<br />

We grow it, raise it,<br />

make it & bake it —<br />

local produce, meat,<br />

cheese and more! Join<br />

us outside on the<br />

Market Square. Both markets will run weekly<br />

through December.<br />

Latin American Festival<br />

Saturday, <strong>June</strong> 1, 2pm–11pm<br />

Lulu Magazine invites you to experience Latin<br />

American art, with music, rhythms and flavours.<br />

Enjoy traditional Latin food, and an exciting<br />

Salsa and Bachata Contest. All are welcome!<br />

Fiesta London Mexican Festival<br />

Sunday, <strong>June</strong> 2, 11am–9pm<br />

Fiesta London honours culture, tradition, and<br />

family with the sounds and tastes of Mexico.<br />

This is a celebration and a vigorous declaration<br />

of community spirit. All are welcome!<br />

London Multicultural Festival<br />

Sunday, <strong>June</strong> 9, 11am–5pm<br />

This colourful and family-friendly event is an<br />

opportunity to enjoy our diversity. Visit the<br />

ethnic displays and enjoy a wide range of<br />

performers and ethnic foods. All are welcome!<br />


Mon–Fri 8am–7pm<br />

Saturday 8am–6pm<br />

Sunday 11am–4pm<br />

Mezzanine & Restaurant Hours Differ<br />

Stratford Symphony Orchestra. Sunday brunch<br />

events start at 11:30 a.m.<br />

Revival House is serving up amazing live<br />

entertainment this season and offers limited preconcert<br />

preferred seating. Enjoy dinner and the<br />

show from your seat! 519-273-3424, revival.house<br />

For 35 years Stratford Chefs School, a not-for-profit<br />

career college focused on innovative, hands-on<br />

training of high quality, aspiring chefs and culinary<br />

entrepreneurs, has set the standard of excellence<br />

for culinary training in Canada. In addition to its<br />

renowned 32-week professional cookery program,<br />

the School recently launched a unique 16-week<br />

“Cook: Basic – Level 1 Diploma” program to run<br />

<strong>June</strong> 3–September 20. Teaching the basics of<br />

classical cookery and pastry coupled with theory<br />

classes focused on cuisine and hospitality, this<br />

program is perfect for those embarking on a second<br />

career or interested in fast-tracking culinary goals.<br />

stratfordchef.com/summer-program<br />

Stratford Farmers’ Market, a year-round market<br />

operating since 1855, offers fresh produce, crafts,<br />

meat and cheese at Stratford Rotary Complex-<br />

Agriplex, 353 McCarthy Rd, Saturdays 7 a.m.–12<br />

noon. 519-271-5130. www.stratfordfairgrounds.com<br />

Around Our Region<br />

We are hearing great reports about Jordi Carr<br />

and Natalie Crittenden’s recently opened Harris<br />

Electric Eatery in the space previously occupied by<br />

Little Red’s at 159 Queen Street East in St Marys.<br />

harriselectriceatery.com<br />

Steelhead Food Co. recently moved into its own<br />

processing facility and will soon offer fresh locally<br />

processed fish that are cleaned and cut at the Fish<br />

and Seafood Market. Based in St. Thomas, Steelhead<br />

offers a selection of premium quality fish and<br />

seafood — fresh, frozen, and smoked. 5 Barrie Blvd,<br />

St. Thomas, 226-237-3474, steelheadfoodco.ca<br />

Alton Farms Estate Winery has extended their<br />

hours, and is now open Wednesday through Sunday,<br />

12 noon–6 p.m. The patio will be open when<br />

weather permits, with pizza on offer by <strong>June</strong> 1.<br />

altonfarmestatewinery.com<br />

Dino and Carla Dassie of Fat Olive in Dorchester<br />

went to Goodfella’s Pizza School in Staten Island,<br />

New York, one of the world’s most comprehensive,<br />

hands-on pizza schools. They were taught how<br />

to make wood-fired pizzas and about owning<br />

and operating a restaurant by the world pizza<br />

champions, Be sure to make a reservation, Fat Olive<br />

is a busy hot-spot. Closed Monday & Sunday, 519-<br />

268-0001, fatolive.ca

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Udderly Ridiculous, co-founded by Cheryl and<br />

Greg Haskett in Oxford County, is a local artisanal<br />

company introducing goat’s milk ice cream to<br />

frozen dessert lovers across Ontario. Available<br />

in six sophisticated flavours “With less naturally<br />

occuring sugars and more vitamins and nutrients<br />

such as calcium and protein, goat’s milk is a fabulous<br />

alternative to cow’s milk ice cream,” says Cheryl<br />

Haskett. “Goat’s milk allows us to sustainably<br />

provide fresh-from-the-farm ingredients,” adds<br />

Greg Haskett. “In addition to farming sustainably<br />

and supporting local, ten cents from every tub<br />

of our ice cream goes towards buying a goat for<br />

a family in need through World Vision.” Udderly<br />

Ridiculous will be available at select Sobey’s and<br />

Foodland stores, with more distribution channels<br />

coming online soon. udderlyridiculous.ca<br />

St. Thomas’s Chef Terrance Tew (Chopped Canada<br />

contestant) and Anna Tavares have teamed up to<br />

offer The Tipsy Pig — “an authentic roadside BBQ<br />

Catering Company.” Housed in a renovated barn,<br />

they use local ingredients and traditional woodfired<br />

BBQ techniques. “Elgin County has always<br />

amazed us with an abundant amount of producers<br />

and products that surround our local community,”<br />

says Chef Terrance. “We showcase it the best way we<br />

can, with what we affectionately refer to as refined<br />

BBQ, combining traditional Southern smoking,<br />

modern scratch cooking, and our dedication to<br />

hospitality.” They look forward to servicing Elgin<br />

County and surrounding areas. 519-319-7980<br />

The Village Teapot is serving Mother’s Day Afternoon<br />

Tea on Sunday, <strong>May</strong> 12, 1—3 p.m. Also on the event<br />

schedule are Homestyle Sunday Roasts with all the<br />

fixings. Mother’s Day features Roast Lamb, <strong>May</strong> 26th<br />

is Roast Beef and Father’s Day, <strong>June</strong> 16th is Prime Rib.<br />

Reservations required. Licensed with a selection of<br />

local wines and beer. 13257 Ilderton Road, Ilderton,<br />

519-298-TEAS (8327), thevillageteapot.ca<br />

Join Ride the Bine for the new tour of Cheese Bites<br />

and Beer Flights – a journey through the backroads<br />

of Norfolk and Oxford County. Enjoy local tastes as<br />

you sip small batch beer and sample an array of fine<br />

cheeses – both artisanal and international. Amanda<br />

and Susan meet guests at 12:30 p.m. in the Quality<br />

Inn parking lot in Woodstock to begin an afternoon<br />

adventure of fun.<br />

Keith Muller, chair of Hospitality & Culinary Arts<br />

at Conestoga College, told <strong>Eatdrink</strong> that a Centre<br />

of Excellence for Cheesemaker Training is set to<br />

launch in Ontario at Conestoga College’s Waterloo<br />

campus, in collaboration with the Ontario Dairy<br />

Council and French-language College La Cité. The<br />

cheesemaker training program will be Ontario’s<br />

where art is<br />

Hey, Cupcake! a piece of cake<br />

The ORIGINAL<br />



BAKERY<br />

ASK US Custom Bakery • Walk-In Orders Available<br />


“RANDOM<br />

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www.heycupcake.ca<br />

275 Wharncliffe Rd. North<br />

519-433-CAKE (2253)<br />

STORE HOURS: Mon–Fri 11–7<br />

Saturday 10–5 • Sunday 11–4<br />

100% Local — from Our Farmers to Your Table<br />

Hormone & Drug-Free<br />

Ontario Beef, Pork, Bison, Lamb & Chicken<br />





• Metzger Meat Products • Lena’s Lamb<br />

• Blanbrook Bison Farm • Little Sisters Chicken<br />

• Glengyle Farm Organics<br />

The Market at Western Fair District: SAT 8–3; SUN 10–2<br />

226-376-6328 • www.thevillagemeatshop.ca

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

a<br />

movement<br />

for<br />

restaurants<br />

who believe<br />

local food<br />

matters.<br />

®<br />

A Feast On® Certification means<br />

you’re fighting the good food fight.<br />

You’re supporting our farmers<br />

and putting local food first.<br />

To get certified, visit:<br />



eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

most extensive hands-on training program, and will<br />

address a growing demand for skilled workers and<br />

artisans in the dairy processing industry.<br />

Sollgood Social Market kickoff, <strong>June</strong> 20 in<br />

downtown Ingersoll from 6–9 p.m. Artisan<br />

vendors, food and beverage trucks, food producers<br />

and musicians all from within a 100 km radius.<br />

sollgoodsocialmarket.com.<br />

Your love of all things Italian begins at<br />

We want your BUZZ!<br />

Do you have culinary news or upcoming events<br />

that you’d like us to share?<br />

Every issue, <strong>Eatdrink</strong> reaches more than<br />

50,000 readers across Southwestern Ontario<br />

in print, and thousands more online.<br />

Get in touch with us at editor@eatdrink.ca<br />

Submission deadline for the next issue: <strong>June</strong> 5<br />

Gift Cards<br />

Available<br />

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Teams<br />

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Bring back “homemade”<br />

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64 | <strong>May</strong>/<strong>June</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Books<br />

Chop Suey Nation<br />

The Legion Café and Other Stories from<br />

Canada’s Chinese Restaurants<br />

by Ann Hui<br />

Review by DARIN COOK<br />

Ann Hui was first exposed to Chinese<br />

food outside of her home when her<br />

school cafeteria served a Chinese<br />

New Year meal. Even at six years<br />

old she was confused as to why it did not<br />

resemble her parents’ cooking. Years later, as<br />

The Globe and Mail food reporter, Hui became<br />

obsessed with this Canadianized Chinese<br />

food and embarked on an 18-day road trip<br />

from British Columbia to Newfoundland to<br />

visit small-town Chinese restaurants. Chop<br />

Suey Nation: The Legion Café and Other Stories<br />

from Canada’s Chinese Restaurants (Douglas &<br />

McIntyre, <strong>2019</strong>) documents the journey which<br />

led her to question “why so many of them<br />

seemed to look and feel exactly the same”<br />

and to seek out “a single answer that could<br />

explain the spread of Chinese restaurants<br />

across the country … a single starting point or<br />

a single place responsible for the ubiquity and<br />

uniformity of these tiny restaurants.”<br />

Chop suey is translated into English as<br />

“bits and pieces” and is prepared by throwing<br />

together whatever scraps are<br />

available to compose a dish.<br />

This hodge-podge approach<br />

allows recipes to be adaptable<br />

to regional variations, such as<br />

strips of cabbage being used in<br />

chow mein in Newfoundland<br />

to replace egg noodles that<br />

were hard to come by in such<br />

a remote location. Ginger beef<br />

was a national mainstay on<br />

Chinese menus, invented in the<br />

Silver Inn Restaurant in Calgary<br />

to combine the customers’<br />

love of deep fried food with<br />

some exotic flavours. Even<br />

though this style of chop suey<br />

cuisine is not<br />

authentically<br />

Chinese, and<br />

was often called<br />

“fake” Chinese<br />

in Hui’s<br />

household,<br />

she found out<br />

how undeniably<br />

popular it<br />

was from coast to coast.<br />

Hui’s small-town criteria intentionally<br />

put places with higher populations out of<br />

reach, but she was compelled to try one local<br />

restaurant inside a curling rink in Thunder Bay.<br />

The second-generation owner was continuing<br />

the legacy of her father — a popular chef who<br />

had his own local TV station cooking show<br />

after establishing Ling Lee’s Chinese Cuisine,<br />

a dining hot spot, to entice people to the<br />

curling rink. The restaurants Hui visited were<br />

overwhelmingly run by families. Most owners<br />

portrayed the exhausting yet satisfying lifestyle<br />

of an all-consuming business<br />

with long hours. Family homes<br />

were often attached to the<br />

restaurants, leaving little room<br />

for division of family and<br />

work; young children would<br />

move between residence and<br />

restaurant to wash dishes,<br />

assemble takeout orders,<br />

or do homework at vacant<br />

tables. Many restaurants<br />

were sold in their entirety —<br />

recipes, buildings, equipment,<br />

inventory, supplier contracts<br />

Author Ann Hui<br />

Photo by Amanda Palmer

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>May</strong>/<strong>June</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 65<br />

— as a source of income for<br />

new families to make a go of<br />

it in Canada. Even beyond<br />

being family-oriented, the<br />

homey feel extended to the<br />

community, with restaurants<br />

acting as social hubs of a<br />

city. This was most evident<br />

in Stony Plain, Alberta<br />

where the popularity of the<br />

owner of Bing Restaurant<br />

No. 1 spurred him on to run<br />

for and win the seat of city<br />

mayor. More than a venue to serve food to the<br />

community, Hui writes, “The restaurant, it had<br />

turned out, had been the perfect launching pad<br />

for his political career.”<br />

The further Hui investigated the stories of<br />

these restaurants, the more it moved beyond<br />

the food to explore sweeping cultural issues.<br />

Even more poignant than chop suey’s role in<br />

Canadian culinary history are the surprise<br />

elements of her story that she unearths as<br />

she travels back in time through stories of<br />

her father’s upbringing. She was able to piece<br />

together portions of his childhood in China, so<br />

TIME<br />

FOR<br />

A<br />

Author Ann Hui, bottom left, in a childhood<br />

family photo. Photo courtesy Ann Hui.<br />

different from her own, and<br />

how he became a chef after<br />

immigrating to Canada at<br />

the age of twenty-four to<br />

join his own father. Not<br />

only did she surprisingly<br />

learn that her family had<br />

taken the same path by<br />

running its own Chinese<br />

restaurant in Abbotsford,<br />

BC before she was born,<br />

but she was able to bridge<br />

generational and cultural<br />

issues that were not talked about when she was<br />

growing up, to gain a deeper sense of belonging<br />

to her heritage and an understanding of how<br />

her family came to Canada. As Hui learns from<br />

one of the restaurant owners, and what seems<br />

to apply to most of them: “Even more so than<br />

the food … Chinese restaurants are defined by<br />

the families that run them.”<br />

DARIN COOK is a Chatham-based freelance writer<br />

who keeps himself well-read and well-fed by visiting the<br />

bookstores and restaurants of London.<br />


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66 | <strong>May</strong>/<strong>June</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Recipes<br />

Earth to Table Every Day<br />

Cooking with Good Ingredients Through the Seasons<br />

by Jeff Crump and Bettina Schormann<br />

Review and Recipe Selections by TRACY TURLIN<br />

We talk a lot these days about<br />

farm-to-table, slow food, local<br />

and seasonal eating. It’s easy<br />

to forget, as we zip through<br />

our days, 140 characters at a time, that this is<br />

just the way the world used to work. People<br />

grew fruits and vegetables, raised livestock,<br />

produced small batches of cheese or beer<br />

or sausages. They invested their time, their<br />

labour and, ultimately, their reputations.<br />

They made the best they could because they<br />

took pride in knowing that people — real<br />

people with names and faces they recognized<br />

— would be buying it. You, as the consumer,<br />

bought the best, when it was available, and<br />

enjoyed it while it lasted. You didn’t fuss too<br />

much with it because, why would you mess<br />

with the best?<br />

This is the philosophy behind Earth to<br />

Table Every Day: Cooking with Good Ingredients<br />

Through the Seasons (Jeff Crump & Bettina<br />

Schormann; Penguin; 2018).<br />

UWO alum Jeff Crump went on to attend<br />

Stratford Chefs School, and trained at some of<br />

the world’s best restaurants before returning<br />

to Ontario. He worked as executive chef at<br />

Ancaster Mill, along with good friend and awardwinning<br />

pastry chef Bettina Schormann. Over<br />

nearly two decades of working together, they’ve<br />

developed a holistic approach to food. This has<br />

guided them through the creation and evolution<br />

of the Earth to Table: Bread Bar restaurants,<br />

in Hamilton and Guelph. Based on the idea<br />

that “good ingredients<br />

matter,” the Bread Bar<br />

menu is changed four<br />

times a year to match<br />

the seasons.<br />

At Bread Bar they<br />

are not just making<br />

and selling great food;<br />

they’ve become a vital<br />

link in the ecosystem of<br />

their community.<br />

Many consider<br />

it a gathering<br />

place and<br />

20 lucky<br />

customers<br />

were chosen<br />

to test recipes<br />

for Earth to<br />

Table Every<br />

Day.<br />

Their<br />

community-centric<br />

approach means supporting local<br />

businesses, craft breweries, and other producers<br />

as much as possible. Having learned that<br />

lack of access to land is a problem for aspiring<br />

farmers, they and their partners at Pearle Hospitality<br />

purchased farmland in 2010 and set<br />

aside 50 acres to serve as an incubator farm.<br />

Another six acres is used to produce exclusively<br />

for Bread Bar, giving them access to the freshest<br />

ingredients they choose to grow.<br />

Flipping through this book I wasn’t sure if I<br />

wanted to fire up the oven or make reservations,<br />

but I’m confident you would find either to be a<br />

delight. The recipes selected for this book either<br />

come from the restaurant or are inspired by the<br />

people who inspire the chefs.<br />

Crab Cakes with Citrus Chutney are worth<br />

the effort of finding the best fresh crabmeat<br />

available. Poblano chilis add a mild, savoury<br />

heat that compliments<br />

the sweet seafood<br />

without overpowering<br />

it. The chutney<br />

brightens the dish<br />

and works well on just<br />

about everything.<br />

Jeff Crump and<br />

Bettina Schormann

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Piri Piri Baby Back Ribs satisfy my recent<br />

obsession with apple cider and are perfect for<br />

the upcoming grill season. These ribs are the<br />

best of both worlds with a low, slow roast in<br />

the oven for moisture and a quick char on the<br />

grill for the smoky taste of summer. The Piri<br />

Piri Dry Rub mixture has found a place in our<br />

kitchen among our favourite spice mixes.<br />

Sadly, I don’t have the room here to tell you<br />

about the desserts, the pizza and the bread.<br />

Oh, the bread. In short, whether you use this<br />

book to plan your next dinner party or your<br />

next trip to the restaurants that inspired it,<br />

you win either way. Now, if you’ll excuse me, I<br />

have to go read the bread chapter again.<br />

Destination for the food lover<br />

Featuring specialty foods,<br />

kitchenwares, tablewares,<br />

cooking classes and gift baskets.<br />

TRACY TURLIN is a freelance writer and dog groomer<br />

in London. Reach her at tracyturlin@gmail.com<br />

Recipes excerpted from Earth to Table Every Day: Cooking<br />

with Good Ingredients Through the Seasons by Jeff Crump<br />

and Bettina Schormann. Copyright © 2018 Jeff Crump<br />

and Bettina Schormann. Published by Penguin, an imprint<br />

of Penguin Canada, a division of Penguin Random House<br />

Canada Limited. Reproduced by arrangement with the<br />

Publisher. All rights reserved.<br />

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68 | <strong>May</strong>/<strong>June</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

Crab Cakes with Citrus<br />

Makes 12 crab cakes • Serves 4<br />

These beautiful crab cakes are an absolute<br />

splurge. Make them when you can get fresh<br />

crabmeat from a fishmonger. Go ahead and<br />

reward yourself and the ones you love. Be gentle<br />

when shaping the cakes — better to have very<br />

loose and tender crab cakes than well-formed<br />

but dense ones. You will have leftover citrus<br />

chutney, which can be used on buttered toast or<br />

served with roast chicken.<br />

CITRUS CHUTNEY (makes 2 cups/500 ml)<br />

1 lemon, ends trimmed (or 2 Meyer lemons)<br />

1 orange, ends trimmed<br />

2 limes, ends trimmed<br />

1 sweet red pepper, seeded and diced<br />

2 cups (500 mL) lightly packed brown sugar<br />

½ teaspoon (2 mL) red chili flakes<br />


1 large egg<br />

1¼ lbs (565 g) fresh<br />

crabmeat, picked over<br />

¼ cup (60 mL) minced<br />

poblano chili 2<br />

tablespoons (30 mL)<br />

minced fresh cilantro<br />

1 clove garlic, minced<br />

Grated zest of 1 lime<br />

1 cup (250 mL) Basic<br />

<strong>May</strong>onnaise (p. 246)<br />

or store-bought<br />

¼ cup (60 mL) Dijon<br />

mustard<br />

½ teaspoon (2 mL)<br />

Lawry’s Seasoned<br />

Salt or Old Bay<br />

seasoning<br />

¼ teaspoon (1 mL)<br />

cayenne pepper<br />

1 cup (250 mL) panko<br />

crumbs<br />

½ cup (125 mL) canola<br />

oil, divided<br />

1 To make the Citrus<br />

Chutney, wash the citrus<br />

well under warm running<br />

water. Cut the lemon,<br />

orange, and limes into<br />

⅛-inch (3 mm) rounds.<br />

Pluck out any seeds.<br />

Place the citrus in a large<br />

saucepan. Add the red<br />

pepper, brown sugar, chili<br />

flakes, and just enough<br />

water to cover. Bring to<br />

a boil over medium-high<br />

heat. Reduce the heat<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

and simmer until the citrus peels are very soft, about 30<br />

minutes. Add a little water if the mixture starts to dry out.<br />

2 Cool to room temperature before serving. (The chutney<br />

keeps in the refrigerator, in a resealable container, for<br />

up to one month.)<br />

3 To make the Crab Cakes, in a medium bowl, beat the<br />

egg. Add the crab, poblano chili, cilantro, garlic, lime<br />

zest, Basic <strong>May</strong>onnaise, mustard, Lawry’s Seasoned<br />

Salt, and cayenne. Mix well to combine, but do not<br />

overwork the mixture—try to keep it airy.<br />

4 Divide the mixture into 12 equal portions. Shape them<br />

into hamburger-like patties. Dredge them lightly in the<br />

panko crumbs.<br />

5 Heat ¼ cup (60 mL) of the canola oil in a non-stick skillet<br />

over medium heat. Working in batches, fry the Crab<br />

Cakes for 2 to 3 minutes on each side, or until golden<br />

brown, using the remaining ¼ cup (60 mL) canola oil as<br />

needed. Drain the Crab Cakes on a plate lined with paper<br />

towel. Serve hot with the Citrus Chutney.

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Piri Piri Baby Back Ribs<br />

Serves 6 • Requires time for prep<br />

Summertime to us means outdoor cooking,<br />

barbecues, and good times. If we had to cook<br />

just one thing in the summer, it would be these<br />

simple, flavourful, and tender ribs. They are easy<br />

to cook and are the perfect outdoor dinner with<br />

friends. Apple cider brings both sweetness and<br />

the moisture needed for the long, slow cooking.<br />

PIRI PIRI DRY RUB (makes 1 cup/240 ml)<br />

¼ cup (60 mL) hot paprika<br />

8 teaspoons (40 mL) kosher salt<br />

4 teaspoons (20 mL) dried oregano<br />

4 teaspoons (20 mL) ground ginger<br />

4 teaspoons (20 mL) ground cardamom<br />

4 teaspoons (20 mL) garlic powder<br />

4 teaspoons (20 mL) onion powder<br />

2 teaspoons (10 mL) cayenne pepper<br />

2 teaspoons (10 mL) sugar<br />

Zest of 4 lemons,<br />

minced<br />

Zest of 4 limes, minced<br />

1 In a small bowl, combine<br />

the paprika, salt, oregano,<br />

ginger, cardamom, garlic<br />

powder, onion powder,<br />

cayenne, sugar, lemon<br />

zest, and lime zest. Stir<br />

well. Store, covered and<br />

refrigerated, for up to one<br />

month.<br />

4 racks baby back ribs<br />

(about 8 lbs/3.5 kg)<br />

1 cup (250 mL) Piri Piri<br />

Dry Rub<br />

1 cup (250 mL) dry<br />

apple cider<br />

2 Place the ribs meat<br />

side down on a cutting<br />

board and remove the<br />

membrane from the back<br />

of the rack by inserting a<br />

small knife beneath it and<br />

pulling it up so you can<br />

grab it with a dish towel.<br />

Peel off the membrane<br />

and discard.<br />

3 In a large bowl, combine<br />

the ribs and the Piri Piri<br />

Dry Rub. Using your<br />

hands, cover the meat<br />

entirely in the rub.<br />

Shake off excess. Wrap<br />

ribs in plastic wrap and<br />

refrigerate for at least 3<br />

hours or overnight.<br />

<strong>May</strong>/<strong>June</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 69<br />

4 Preheat the oven to 325°F (160°C). Place the ribs in a<br />

large Dutch oven — it’s okay if they overlap—and add<br />

the apple cider. Cover tightly and bake for 4 hours, or<br />

until the meat is fork-tender. Uncover and let cool. (At<br />

this point you can wrap the ribs in plastic wrap and<br />

refrigerate for up to 1 week or freeze in a resealable<br />

plastic bag for up to 1 month.)<br />

5 To serve, preheat a grill to medium-high. Grill the<br />

ribs for 5 minutes per side, until slightly charred. You<br />

can serve these ribs dry,<br />

by sprinkling with a little<br />

more Piri Piri Dry Rub, or<br />

wet with your favourite<br />

barbecue sauce.

70 | <strong>May</strong>/<strong>June</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

The Lighter Side<br />

Skål!<br />

By KYM WOLFE<br />

Apparently Swedes have a “bittersweet<br />

relationship with alcohol.” Who<br />

knew? Not me, until I visited the<br />

Spritmuseum in Stockholm where I<br />

learned ...<br />

Historically liquor meant strength and<br />

manliness. Vodka kept soldiers healthy and<br />

brave. Serious drinking on <strong>May</strong> 1st kicked<br />

off the growing season, and farmers<br />

sprinkled vodka over the fields to<br />

ensure fertility and a good harvest.<br />

Whenever guild members<br />

gathered they would raise a toast<br />

to Christ, the Virgin Mary, and<br />

a never-ending list of saints.<br />

The rules were simple: drink the<br />

same amount as everyone else and<br />

behave. If you dared to fall down,<br />

throw up or pass out you would be fined.<br />

For an unaccompanied woman to drink in<br />

public was unthinkable. The only exception<br />

seemed to be for the “oarsmadames” who<br />

taxied people around Stockholm in rowboats<br />

(the city is made up of 14 islands). In one<br />

painting, two oarsmadames stand in their<br />

small boats and raise a toast, a large uncorked<br />

bottle on the dock between them. Perhaps<br />

there was an understanding that they needed<br />

the sustenance to fuel their rowing.<br />

Vodka was considered as nourishing as meat<br />

and bread — even young children had their<br />

daily tipple. During times of famine mothers<br />

moaned that their poor malnourished<br />

children had to make do with water in their<br />

porridge. Help was on the way …<br />

Countess Eva de la Gardie was the first<br />

woman elected to the Swedish Royal Academy<br />

of Sciences in 1748. Her claim to fame?<br />

Transforming potatoes into vodka. Thanks to<br />

Eva, grains could be used to feed the starving<br />

masses instead of being turned into vodka …<br />

there were plenty of potatoes for that!<br />

Swedes drank copious amounts of alcoholic<br />

punsch during the 19th century, raising their<br />

glasses in a show of national pride referred<br />

to as “Punsch Patriotism.” Sugar was a status<br />

symbol, and punsch was packed with sugar …<br />

giving rise to another common phenomenon:<br />

“Punsch Belly”.<br />

By the late 19th century, thanks to a vocal<br />

temperance movement, alcohol education<br />

became a mandatory school subject.<br />

Terrifying images, designed to scare children<br />

from even trying alcohol, warned: “Danger<br />

might be lurking in the very first glass!”<br />

Picture fat-choked hearts and livers, and<br />

booze-ravaged faces. A “vodka dragon” —<br />

shaped like a still with vodka pouring<br />

out of it — was surrounded by<br />

paths leading to prison, the<br />

madhouse and the poorhouse.<br />

“Good citizens” were issued<br />

an alcohol ration book. Married<br />

women, substance abusers<br />

and the poor need not apply.<br />

One book per household, to the<br />

man of the house. Not having<br />

one meant you were not a trusted<br />

citizen. Shameful!<br />

Today the Swedes have developed a taste<br />

for the bubbly — Sweden is now the world’s<br />

tenth largest Champagne market. One exhibit<br />

dispelled a myth that refuses to die: that the<br />

champagne coupe was designed to match<br />

the shape of Marie-Antionette’s breasts. She<br />

“actually did have china cups that were clearly<br />

breast-shaped, but they were intended for<br />

goat’s milk, and were not modelled after the<br />

queen’s own womanly charms.”<br />

Vodka remains the spirit of choice<br />

for traditional holidays, though, with<br />

sales peaking at Christmas, Easter and<br />

Midsummer. Drink vodka, eat pickled<br />

herring, crayfish and surströmming<br />

(fermented herring), and sing schnaps songs.<br />

And of course propose a toast.<br />

For tips on how to do that properly, we<br />

turned to Swedish actor Max von Sydow at<br />

the “Skål School with Max” exhibit. Raise<br />

your glass. Look the person you are toasting<br />

in the eye — one eyebrow lowered, slight<br />

smirk. Say “Skål”! Give a slight nod. Down the<br />

hatch! Another direct and serious look in the<br />

eye, with furrowed brow. Put your glass down.<br />

Elegant and effective.<br />

Thanks Max, and skål!<br />

KYM WOOLF is a freelance writer based in London.

LONDON’S<br />

Local Flavour<br />

VOLUME 7<br />

Restaurants • Specialty Shops & Services<br />

Craft Beer & Wine • Farmers’ Markets<br />

Do You Have Your Copy Yet?<br />

NEW!<br />

More to Explore!<br />

Recommended<br />

Culinary<br />

Neighbours<br />


72 | <strong>May</strong>/<strong>June</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />




SUNDAY<br />

8–7<br />

8–6 11–4<br />




130 KING STREET, LONDON | coventmarket.com w b

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