The Local Food & Drink Magazine serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario since 2007
Issue #77 | May/June 2019
eatdrink
The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine
MIGHTY
F.I.N.E.
A Restaurant
in Grand Bend
FEATURING
Culinary Experiences
Planting Seeds for Experiential Tourism
Cool Climate Chardonnay
A Crisp Taste of Our Climate
Road Trip to Elora
Beneath the Plaid
Serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario since 2007
www.eatdrink.ca
2 | May/June 2019
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
Stratford’s
#nextgen chefs are here
VisitStratford.ca
BEST
SHOPPING
IN THE CITY;
NOW BOTH
SATURDAY
AND SUNDAY!
THEMARKETWFD.COM
STEPHANIE A.
FACEBOOK REVIEW
Get off the highway and escape the rush. Visit small towns and dusty roads to celebrate
the culture, flavours and creators of Oxford County. Slow down and embrace our rural routes.
Get inspired and find details at
TourismOxford.ca
519-539-9800
1-866-801-7368 x3355
tourism@oxfordcounty.ca
www.tourismoxford.ca
Woodstock, Tillsonburg, Ingersoll, Norwich, Tavistock, Drumbo, Embro
4 | May/June 2019
eatdrink
The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
eatdrinkmagazine
@eatdrinkmag
eatdrinkmag
eatdrink.ca
Think Global. Read Local.
Publisher
Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca
Managing Editor Cecilia Buy – cbuy@eatdrink.ca
Food Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca
Copy Editor Kym Wolfe
Social Media Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca
Advertising Sales Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca
Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca
Stacey McDonald – stacey@eatdrink.ca
Terry-Lynn “TL” Sim – TL@eatdrink.ca
Finances
Ann Cormier – finance@eatdrink.ca
Graphics
Chris McDonell, Cecilia Buy
Writers
Jane Antoniak, Darin Cook,
Gary Killops, Bryan Lavery,
George Macke, Kym Wolfe
Sue Sutherland Wood
Photographers Bruce Fyfe, Steve Grimes, Doug North
Telephone & Fax 519-434-8349
Mailing Address 525 Huron Street, London ON N5Y 4J6
Website
City Media, Cecilia Buy
Social Media Mind Your Own Business
Printing
Sportswood Printing
OUR COVER
On the patio of Grand
Bend’s F.I.N.E. a
Restaurant are chef/
owner Erryn Shephard
(left), front-of-house
manager Susan Tebrugge,
and chef Ben Sandwith.
Photo by Bruce Fyfe.
© 2019 Eatdrink Inc. and the writers.
All rights reserved.
Reproduction or duplication of any material published in Eatdrink
or on Eatdrink.ca is strictly prohibited without the written permission
of the Publisher. Eatdrink has a printed circulation of 20,000
issues published six times annually in each of two markets, for a total
of 240,000 copies in print. The views or opinions expressed in the
information, content and/or advertisements published in Eatdrink
or online are solely those of the author(s) and do not necessarily
represent those of the Publisher. The Publisher welcomes submissions
but accepts no responsibility for unsolicited material.
Serving up
Great
partnerships
commercial | digital | wide format | design
Let us help with your next project...
519.866.5558 | ben@sportswood.on.ca
www.sportswood.on.ca
EVENTS • FOOD • VENDORS
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine March/April 2019 | 5
SorryNO
RV Parking
on long wknds & July-August
OVER 200 VENDORS SELLING UNIQUE, HANDCRAFTED,
VINTAGE AND EVERYTHING IN BETWEEN
FOOD VENDORS, CRAFT BEER & LIVE ENTERTAINMENT
EVENTS POSTED ON FACEBOOK
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FOR MORE INFO
VISIT
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Contents
Issue #77 | May/June 2019
Publisher’s Notes
When Patience Is a Virtue
Getting It Right the First Time
By CHRIS McDONELL
8
Food Writer at Large
Culinary Experiences
Planting Seeds for Experiential Tourism
By BRYAN LAVERY
10
40
10
Wine
Cool Climate Chardonnay
A Crisp Taste of Our Climate
By GARY KILLOPS
40
Theatre
Summertime ...
And the Theatre Is ... Diverse
By JANE ANTONIAK
48
Restaurants
Mighty F.I.N.E. for Fifteen Years
F.I.N.E. a Restaurant, in Grand Bend
By JANE ANTONIAK
20
Spotlight
New Hotspots
Additions to the Culinary Scene
By THE EDITORS
24
Road Trips
Beneath the Plaid
There’s More to Elora
By SUE SUTHERLAND WOOD
28
Beer
For the Love of Lager
Craft Brewers Take on Big Beer
By GEORGE MACKE
35
28
20
The BUZZ
Culinary Community Notes
New and Notable
53
Books
Chop Suey Nation
by Ann Hui
Review by DARIN COOK
64
66
Recipes
Earth to Table Every Day
by Jeff Crump and Bettina Schormann
Review & Recipe Selections by TRACY TURLIN
66
The Lighter Side
Skål!
By KYM WOLFE
70
64
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
May/June 2019 | 7
WE SPEAK THE GOOD
FOOD LANGUAGE
Come & sample our
New Seasonal Menu!
Reserve NOW for Our Famous Gourmet
MOTHER’S DAY BRUNCH BUFFET
Sunday, May 12
519-430-6414
/Blakes2ndFloor
¦
8 | May/June 2019
Publisher’s Notes
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
When Patience Is a Virtue
Getting It Right the First Time
By CHRIS McDONELL
O
ne of the best perks in publishing
Eatdrink is the notices we get
when a new business launches. It
is always exciting to hear about
creative people taking the bold step of
introducing the world to their brainchild. This
is not work for the faint of heart! We admire
their courage and strive to be fully supportive.
And we are pleased to announce the news.
As exciting it is to break a story first, we
tend to be a little slow to put together an
in-depth profile for our readers. There
are several sound reasons for this,
although we get some complaints about
this informal policy from eager owners
(and publicists, who are often on shortterm
contracts so they REALLY press to
PATIENCE
get their story out). We offer our BUZZ
column, totally free of charge, but “a real story”
is seen as the golden ticket.
We have been doing this since 2007, and we
have learned that we can be of best service if
we are a little patient. Despite putting together
the most detailed and well-researched business
plans, years of experience in the industry, with
boundless energy, passion and keen intelligence
brought to the project, very few businesses get
everything right when they first open.
I could cite some real disasters, like a head
chef crumbling under the pressure of opening
day and resigning before dinner service was
over, but those are few and far between.
Thankfully! But quite consistently, lesser
issues arise. Perhaps there’s a staffing issue.
It might turn out that some menu items are
just not working, the HVAC system proves
inadequate with a weather change, or a
supplier can’t manage to deliver a key product
in a timely manner. A tweaking or an overhaul
takes place, maybe several times, before the
business is really hitting its stride.
We take our responsibility to our readers
very seriously. We only publish stories about
places that we are confident our readers will
enjoy. The result: readers understand the
story is a form of endorsement and their
interest is piqued. A bump in business ensues.
New customers are created, and they help
spread the word. That is the ideal situation.
Every good business makes the effort to
ensure every customer enjoys an optimum
experience. For a first-time customer, this is
absolutely crucial. A large number of patrons
will not easily return if things do not go
well. Which is why a “soft opening” is
so helpful for getting launched. There
is an understanding on everyone’s
part that this is “a work in progress”
and extra allowances are granted. Here
at Eatdrink, we like to extend that grace
period a little longer.
Early on, we published a story on an
interesting new business, and the owner was
excited. The story came out, but in just a few
weeks, some things went sideways. The owner
contacted us a few months later, asking that
we write another story about his business.
“So much has changed! We’ve fixed so many
problems! We need to tell a different story!”
Publishing every other month, we literally
don’t have the space to write about every
worthy business even once a year. We have
written about some businesses more than
once — our cover story is a fine example of
that (pun intended!) — but there are years in
between stories. So we wait, until a venture is
relatively established, and also able to sustain
a spike in business when a story comes out.
We’re interested in long term relationships,
with our customers and with our readers.
Now, all that said, we’re trying something
a little different this issue, and have included
a column about five new businesses that
Eatdrink is watching with some excitement.
Is this a good idea? Please let me know! We’re
here to serve.
Peace,
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
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TEACHING THE MEDICINE OF THE FUTURE
10 | May/June 2019
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
Food Writer at Large
Culinary Experiences
Planting the Seeds for Experiential Tourism
By BRYAN LAVERY
We like to travel along Oxford
County’s concessions and back
roads to rediscover the terroir
and pastoral landscapes and to
stop at the farmgates in season. Just outside
Woodstock, situated in the rolling hills just off
Highway 59, is Shep Ysselstein’s Gunn’s Hill
Artisan Cheese operation and his family’s wellestablished,
third generation dairy farmstead.
Bo, the Ysselstein’s affable canine will likely
greet you upon arrival. Prepare yourself to
walk in the shoes of a gifted local cheesemaker,
while attending Affinage 101, a new hands-on
culinary experience in Oxford County.
We were given hairnets and disposable shoe
coverings before heading in to get a hands-on,
behind-the-scenes look at how Ysselstein
crafts his award-winning Swiss-style artisan
cheese. The wheels of cheese are stored on
long wooden shelves in climate-sensitive
ageing rooms. We washed the hefty wheels of
cheese in order to keep them moist, turned
them over, and washed them again allowing
the cheese to gain additional flavour. Using
a double-handed cheese knife, the affable
Ysselstein, cut into the wheels in order to
taste the cheese at the various stages of
ageing. We were guided on how to judge the
quality of cheese, and rate the various flavour
At Gunn’s Hill Artisan Cheese visitors get the full
experience: from hands-on cheesemaking activities ,
to preparing and enjoying the final product.
profiles, textures, and anomalies.
Later we prepared a trio of cheese
fondues. The insides of the pots were
rubbed with garlic cloves, white wine
was slightly heated with cornstarch
over portable burners, and then
three different varieties of cheese
were grated and individually stirred
into their own fondue pots. We ate
the communal fondue by dipping
fresh bread (from Woodstock’s new
bakery, Two Guys and a Whisk) into
Dave Schonberger leads visitors in “From Tree
to Table – A Build your own Board Experience,”
another opportunity for experiential tourists.
the melted cheese.
There was time to
socialize with other
participants, sample
different cheese
varieties and savour
the fondues.
On display at
Gunn’s Hill’s newly
renovated showroom
are tree-totable
charcuterie
and cheese boards,
Poland, Baltic States handcrafted & St. Petersburg with
21 days, sustainably-sourced
Late August 2019
Stylish and vibrant history local and wood culture by and Dave the
sheer grandeur Schonberger of Russia’s imperial of city
Tanzania Ottercreek & Zanzibar Woodworks.
September In 2018 2019
14 days,
10-day Serengeti & Schonberger Tarangire National won Parks
Safari,, plus the 4 Innovative days Beach Resort
Experience of the
Year Award from
Southwest Ontario
31 Tourism Nottinghill Gate, for his Suite 203,
Oakville “From ON Tree TICO#50013851 to Table
– A Build-your-own
Board Experience.”
This experience
includes a guided
walk through Carolinian
Forest, an
artisanal workshop
where you can craft
your own live-edge
charcuterie board,
and a tasting of
local cheese and
charcuterie.
Affinage 101 and
“From Tree to Table
– A Build-your-own
Board Experience”
are both good examples
of authentic
experiences which
enable visitors
to forge deeper
connections with
regional food stories.
Planting Seeds for Experiential Tourism Dinner:
(top) Modernist Apple with Edible Soil by Chef
Brian Sua-an of Reverie: (middle) Pawpaw Puree
from Farmer Paul Spence; (bottom) Joanne Wolnik,
Tourism Project Development Manager, Southwest
Ontario Tourism Corporation. Photos by Phong Tran.
experience the
wonders & colours
of morocco
A tour that will
open your mind
and your senses
11 DAYS
18 MEALS
Call Heather for dates and prices
www.heathersincomparablejourneys.ca
For any and all of your travel needs
519-473-8591 — Heather Wilkinson
Regional Office: 31 Nottinghill Gate, Suite 203, Oakville
TICO#50013851
Come Experience Our World!
Award Winning Artisan Cheese
NOW OFFERING! Affinage 101
A hands-on behind-the-scenes experience
• Visit the aging room where cheese is cured
• Taste the changes in flavour as the cheese cures
• Discover steps to judge cheese quality and taste
• Create a delicious Gunn’s Hill fondue from scratch
• Find details and register on our website
445172 Gunn's Hill Rd, Woodstock, ON
519-424-4024
www.gunnshillcheese.ca
Trust...
Taste...
Quality...
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
Celes Davar (above) discusses experiential tourism
with an engaged group of industry professionals at
a Slow Food-inspired evening.
Your Source for
Dry Aged Steaks,
Sausages, Burgers & Kebabs
and so much more ...
• Sourced locally from trusted farms
• Traditional European preparation methods
• The latest in food processing innovation
Open six days a week.
Hensall, Ontario
Just off Hwy 4,
45 minutes north of London.
www.metzgermeats.com
519-262-3130
Available in London at
The Village Meat Shop
at Western Fair Farmers’ Market
on Saturdays!
Local Beef • Pork • Lamb • Poultry
Specialty European Meat Products
When led by knowledgeable guides, participants
become interactively immersed. Experiential
tourism offers a value-added, hands-on activity
that changes the visitor from a consumer to a
participant, enriching the experience, and often
creating longer stays and increasing revenue.
Last November a culinary experience with
an invitation to be creative about tourism
was branded as “Planting the Seed for
Experiential Tourism”. It is being marketed
for team building experiences and convention
attendees later this year. This experience
was crafted with Melissa Du Luca of Tourism
London, Joanne Wolnik of Southwest
Ontario Tourism Corporation (SWOTC) and
Forest City Cookbook creator Alieska Robles.
We asked participants to attend with a spirit
of adventure and prepared to be enlightened
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
by culinary professionals. Designed to
inspire participants and to think about
creative collaboration and innovation, the
experience included certified tea sommelier
and nutritionist Michelle Pierce Hamilton,
owner of beTeas and The Tea Lounge; chef/
owner Brian Sua-an of Reverie, London’s
12-seat tasting restaurant; chef/owner Thomas
Waite of The In Home Chef; and Paul Spence,
Chatham-Kent’s local food champion.
More recently, I facilitated a Slow Foodinspired
evening on behalf of Lavery Culinary
Group. My colleague and nephew Nick Lavery
emceed the event, with a craft beer pairing by
Nate Torrresan of Forked River Brewing Co.
Speakers Gary Rowsell and Emanuela Frongia
provided an impressively nuanced discourse
on the Slow Food movement. Frongia spoke
of the Canadian Ark of Taste (think of
Noah’s Ark for food), which comprises an
archive of foods threatened by agribusiness,
standardization and environmental
degradation. Photographer Phong Tran
offered expert advice on creating Instagramworthy
food photos with your cellphone.
Sample delicious local eats,
meet inspiring producers and
marvel at the tempting array
of fresh and artisanal edibles.
From farm to table, pork to pies
to pints, discover more
in Perth County!
restaurants
farm gates
Woodstock’s Chocolatea involves visitors in creating
hand-crafted chocolates — a “Truffle Camp” workshop —
a fine example of experiential tourism in action.
food shops
Find us, follow us!
#DiscoverMore #PerthCounty
@PerthCoTourism
perthcountytourism.ca
14 | May/June 2019
Experiential dining events are all about
innovation, often featuring restaurants popups
in non-traditional spaces. For both the
“Planting the Seeds for Experiential Tourism”
and Slow Food-inspired dinners, menus
included less familiar indigenous ingredients
such as custardy pawpaw, tart quince, nutty
Jerusalem artichokes, local chestnuts and the
honey-like tasting Jesuit pear, prepared by
farm-to-table observant farmers and chefs.
We learned how experiential tourism is
changing the landscape of visitor experiences
Homestyle Cooking & Baking
Family Owned & Operated Mennonite Restaurant & Bakery
Homemade cooking & baking made fresh daily from
scratch using the best ingredients!
• 20+ Pies! • Muffins • Squares • Cookies • Sweet Buns • Donuts
• Cheesecakes • Tarts • Cakes & Cupcakes • Bread & Dinner Rolls
OPEN
ALL YEAR
ROUND!
10am–6pm
DAILY
www.annamaes.ca
519-595-4407
Monday–Saturday
7am–8pm
Cash or Debit Accepted
4060 Line 72, Millbank ON
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
in travel and tourism in Canada by “experiential
guru” Celes Davar, of the award-winning
boutique experiential tourism company Earth
Rhythms. Davar and his wife Susan are dedicated
to fostering customized immersive travel
experiences. Twenty new trailblazing experience-development
coaches emerged from the
“Train the Trainer” course facilitated by Davar,
all grads of his “Unlocked & Inspired” training
program provided by SWOTC.
Among the grads were tourism innovator
and Oxford County chocolatier Cindy Walker,
certified tea sommelier, and self-styled “Queen
of the Ganache.” As owner/head chocolatier
of Ingersoll’s Chocolatea, Walker crafts smallbatch
chocolates with innovative flavour
pairings and procures a carefully curated
selection of teas. Participants assume the role
of the chocolatier and step behind the counter
to craft a dozen of their own multi-flavoured
truffles in her “Truffle Camp” workshops.
Walker guided the Culinary Learning Tour
for the SWOTC 2019 annual conference. We
were transported by school bus to Heeman’s
Greenhouse where we met Susan Judd, a
partner in Ride the Bine, who provides local
beer, wine and cider tours with co-owner
Amanda Dooney. Chief Daymaker Will Heeman
was on hand to provide context and an engaging
overview of Heeman’s family owned and
operated greenhouse and strawberry farm. We
tasted and transplanted different herb varietals
to take away. A honey tasting experience was
presented by Tom Heeman, with an explanation
on how bees make honey, the different varieties
and the variations in colour, taste, texture
and aroma. Tom is the driving force behind
Heeman’s honey production and has a solid
background in agronomy and biological controls
along with industry experience, having grown
up on the farm. The honey was paired with
IN-STORE BAKERY
& GIFT SHOP
Old Fashioned Sausage
Smoked Pork Products
Bacon & Ribs
Local Artisan Cheeses
Large Selection of Gourmet Condiments
The Finest Local Poultry Products
Free Range & Drug Free
Holland Grills
#2146 Highway 7 & 8, Shakespeare ON
519-625-8194
www.porkshoppe.com
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
different types of cheese for a taste comparison.
Chef Shauna Versloot, coach/owner of The Live
Well Community, spoke about a recent trip to
Italy as well as balsamic vinegar. The tour ended
with a competitive make-your-own sundae with
strawberry preserve and balsamic glaze topping.
Davar stated, “In the hands of local storytellers,
passionate gardeners and in the warm,
humid and green environment, we had a tropical
holiday for a winter’s afternoon. That’s how
we change tourism, one experience at a time.”
This summer, my colleagues and I will be
helping to host a range of customized foodfocused
and cultural experiential walking tours
options that will be on offer in Downtown
London. You will be able to experience the
Forest City in a new way, and indulge all of your
senses with an insider tour by a local culinary
expert. Watch the Eatdrink social media
channels for more information.
Eatdrink Food Editor and Writer at Large BRYAN
LAVERY brings years of professional experience in
the hospitality industry, as a co-founder of the Lavery
Culinary Group, food writer, chef, event planner, former
restaurateur and mentor.
Stratford ‘Stinks’ – but only once a year!
September 7, 9am – 5pm
September 8, 10am – 4pm
Indoors at the Community Hall
Stratford Rotary Complex
353 McCarthy Road, Stratford ON
•
Ontario Garlic & Artisan Market
featuring over 70 vendors
Exclusive Tastings
pairing artisanal cheeses with wines,
beer and spirits
Cooking Demonstrations
Educational Forums
Live Entertainment
Free parking and bike valet service
growers & creators of fine lavender products
DISCOVER.
INDULGE.
ESCAPE.
Annual
BLOOM
Celebration
June 15-30
519-494-5525
47589 Sparta Line, Sparta
Wed–Sat 10-5; Sun 12–4
Mother’s Day to Dec. 20
PLUS June–Labour Day: Tues 10-5
steedandcompany.com
$5 Garden
Admission
June 15-July 14
Stratford is
more than
great theatre
visitstratford.ca
Where Herbivores
can bring their Carnivores
PATIO
NOW
OPEN!
118 Downie Street, Stratford
Wednesday thru Sunday 11–8
Call 519.305.5888
www.theplanetdiner.com
Globally inspired; locally sourced.
An eclectic array of tapas, tacos, & plates;
featuring a pre-theatre prix fixe dinner menu.
Local craft beer & wine,
unique cocktails & margaritas.
(519)273.5886
themillstone.ca
Every Saturday
10pm - 2am
30 Ontario St, Stratford, ON
A POP-UP SNACK BAR
Laotian cuisine alongside
regionally-inspired cocktails
@ latenightlao
themillstoneON
“Our bodies are our gardens
to which our wills are gardeners.”
— William Shakespeare
Awaken your taste buds
with over 50 choices of fresh,
olive oils & balsamic vinegars,
all in the heart of Stratford.
21 York Street
TUES, WED, THURS, SAT 10–5;
FRI 10–6; SUN 12–4; Closed MON
519-508-1757
oliveyourfavourites.com
Casual Family-Friendly Italian
Eat In • Take Out • Patio
Licensed
Tuesday–Thursday 4:30–9:00
Friday–Saturday 4:30–10:00
38 Erie Street, Stratford
519-305-3838
www.aopasta.com
“A fun place to shop
for housewares and gifts!”
Beautiful rugs and textiles made
entirely from recycled plastic bottles
visitstratford.ca
@StratfordON
WATSON’S
CHELSEA BAZAAR
84 Ontario St. Stratford
watsonsofstratford.com
519-273-1790
PATIO NOW OPEN
A WORLD OF
MUSIC FOR
EVERYONE
Friday Night Live at Revival House
Join us Friday nights in Stratford as we turn a dining hall into a Manhattan-style night
club. Don’t miss these six exceptional evenings that will jazz-up your summer nights!
$45 each show, in advance (+ $5 at the door)
$89 Dinner & Show package, in advance only
FRIDAY, JULY 19TH AT 9 PM
Stephen Prutsman, jazz
FRIDAY, JULY 26TH AT 9 PM
Conception Bay with Duane Andrews, Mark Fewer
and INNERchamber, jazz & folk
FRIDAY, AUGUST 2ND AT 9 PM
Phil Dwyer Trio, jazz
FRIDAY, AUGUST 16TH AT 9 PM
Bohemians of Brooklyn, Tom Allen, Lori
Gemmel, Bryce Kulak, Patricia O’Callaghan
FRIDAY, AUGUST 23 AT 9 PM
Rhapsody in Blue and Brazilian Jazz with
John Novacek, James Campbell and Graham
Campbell, brazilian jazz
FRIDAY, AUGUST 9TH AT 9 PM
Jodi Proznick & Heather Bambrick, jazz
season
sponsor
519.271.2101 / 1.866.288.4313
stratfordsummermusic.ca
20 | May/June 2019
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
Restaurants
Mighty F.I.N.E. for Fifteen Years
F.I.N.E. a Restaurant, in Grand Bend
By JANE ANTONIAK | Photos by BRUCE FYFE
Aging like a fine wine, or maybe more like the
energizer bunny, Chef Erryn Shephard, shows
no sign of slowing down or of losing her love
of French cuisine. Her brilliant touches on
everything from the breadbasket to the cheesecake, not
to mention custom décor including her own art collection,
make Grand Bend’s F.I.N.E. a Restaurant a beloved
Southwestern Ontario destination.
Shephard speaks of roux in loving tones. Butter and
flour are her muses. She bakes and makes soups with such
passion that, at 58, when other chefs might think about
standing down after years on their feet, she is consumed
with what new culinary business she may yet start.
“I love it. I cannot imagine doing anything else. I’m
not tired of any of it yet,” she says when you can manage
to get her to sit down in a chair for a few minutes for
an interview. Her 14-year partner in the kitchen, Chef
Ben Sandwith, takes her chair for further questions as
Shephard dashes off to the kitchen to bring yet more
samples or to
personally pack
left-overs for
guests to take
home.
“There’s
not a thing
she won’t do
for someone,”
says Sandwith.
He outlines
the various
charitable acts
by Shephard
including
cooking for
schools,
churches, and
fundraisers
for everything
from the local
foodbank to
Seated on the F.I.N.E. patio are chef/owner Erryn Shephard (left),
chef Ben Sandwith, and Front-of-house manager Susan Tebrugge
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
Tastings at the London Hunt Club. This is in
addition to the tens of thousands of dollars
she has raised for cancer research at St.
Joseph’s Health Care in London via her annual
ladies’ nights dinners and auctions.
This generous spirit is also evident in her
kitchen. While Shephard loves working with
rich ingredients in classically-inspired dishes,
she has respect for customers who prefer
lighter or vegetarian fare.
Daily soups include the popular Coconut
Curry Sweet Potato vegetarian soup. Cream
of Celery Root soup, topped with apple slaw,
is light, silky and crunchy. Shephard says she
is seeing a younger crowd in recent years who
“don’t come in for a Manhattan, but they
know a lot about food.” While the certified
Angus beef tenderloin remains a mainstay on
the menu, chefs Shephard and Sandwith also
give a nod to fish as a customer choice. Maybe
it’s the location (next to Lake Huron waters)
which inspires both chefs and customers to
clamour for the lake fish. While the pan-fried
pickerel is outstanding, so is the fresh BC
halibut, pan-seared and served beautifully
with lemon cream, spring peas, homemade
BISTRO • CONFERENCE • SUITES • SPA
519-565-2576
LakeHouseofBayfield.com
meats Catering that your needs.
C’Angelina
Catering
Corporate & Family BBQs
Prepared Foods & Fresh Meats
Sausage-Making Classes
Visit us this Summer at
The Pinery Market
Sundays 9–4
By Appointment
426 Third Street, London
519-204-8189
c-angelina@rogers.com
22 | May/June 2019
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
gnocchi that melts in your mouth, and is topped with
a light salad. Don’t put it past Sandwith to play it up
with jumbo shrimp, lobster and other ocean fishes for
his fish-of-the-day or his crostini-of-the-day. “Ben has
just gotten better and better,” says Shephard.
Both chefs were trained in the US. Shephard
attended the Greenbrier Apprentice program in
West Virgina as well as programs in Dallas and Ohio.
Sandwith grew his talents in New York City before
returning home to Grand Bend, where he and Shephard
connected at the Oakwood Inn. They are strongly
customer-centric while remaining true to “cooking
what we love to cook” and what the customers love to
eat. Front-of-house is managed by Susan Tebrugge.
A visit to F.I.N.E. simply must include dessert.
Shephard’s cheesecakes are deep, creamy and not
overly-sweet despite being double-chocolate or peanut
butter with additions of fudge sauce, whip cream,
cookies and candies. She is playful with offerings
such as hot bananas in deep-friend wontons with
spiced honey, cinnamon sugar and vanilla ice cream.
“People are more open to trying things, trusting us,”
says Shephard. As well, they get summer customers
on vacation who are looking for a special experience.
The customer base has grown from Grand Bend
locals to regulars from London, Sarnia and beyond.
The restaurant is open ten months a year, closing
in January and February (although it opens for
Valentine’s Day). F.I.N.E. also has a busy catering
business serving up to 200 at off-site weddings,
custom private dining and even beach parties. The
restaurant itself has two sections for about 40 people,
a seasonal patio for 24 and a private room upstairs for
12. Think elegant cabin with stunning artwork and
funky seasonal decorations. F.I.N.E. offers some special
occasion events such as Mother’s Day brunch, Father’s
Day dinner, wine-tastings and tapas with Michael Buck
of Lifford Wines. And an interesting experience that
combines dinner with psychic readings.
Still, Shephard is strongly hinting she wants more.
“I love the feeling of yeast, dough in my hands,”
she says. For example, locals pop by on Fridays
for Cinnamon Friday Fries — a tribute to a longago
Grand Bend bakery which sold iced cinnamon
deep-fried dough strips. “I was taught by such great
chefs in the US so I like the classical stuff and how
it’s applied here. Sometimes I think I’d like to offer
the food of your parents: cool, old-school and still
really good.” She gets sentimental reminiscing about
Oysters Rockefeller and Surf ’n’ Turf. Clearly, with
14 solid years in the bank, the loyal clients of F.I.N.E.
Right, from top: Cream of Celery Root Soup with apple slaw ;
Crostini-of-the-Day: jumbo shrimp, garlic chilis and
homemade hot sauce; Chocolate cheesecake with Skor bits,
chocolate fudge sauce, cream and berries.
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
May/June 2019 | 23
F.I.N.E a Restaurant
42 Ontario Street South, Grand Bend
519-238-6224
finearestaurant.com
lunch & dinner hours change seasonally
Pan-roasted BC Halibut (top) with homemade gnocchi,
spring peas, asparagus, and lemon cream; and Hot
Bananas Won Tons (below) with spiced honey, cinnamon
sugar, Macadamia nuts and vanilla ice cream.
have proven that Shephard and Sandwith have
found a unique space for their talents, with
the promise of more to come.
The Best and Only Water-TOP Patio!
Chef-inspired Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner Menus
Craft Beers & Inspired Cocktails
Best View In The City
Join Us ... Dockside!
JANE ANTONIAK is a regular contributor to Eatdrink.
She is also Manager, Communications & Media Relations,
at King’s University College in London.
BRUCE FYFE is a frequent photographer for Eatdrink
and Head, User Experience & User Services, Western
Libraries for Western University.
Alternate Grounds Dockside
Sarnia Bay Marina,
97 Seaway Road, Sarnia
519-332-3081
Open Daily • from 8–Late • April–October
agdockside.com
“Where everyone knows your game”
18 Hole Golf Course
Year-round Restaurant / Bar
519-236-4030
whitesquirrelgolfclub.com
72538 Bluewater Hwy. 21, Zurich
24 | May/June 2019
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
Spotlight
New Hotspots
Five Noteworthy Additions to Our Culinary Scene
By THE EDITORS
There is no shortage of exciting culinary news,
and our Buzz column on page 53 offers plenty of
proof of that. We think it’s obvious editors here
at Eatdrink are always on the lookout for quality
businesses that our readers will want to know about. There
is also real consternation about the constraints on the
number of stories we can print in any one issue, in any one
year. This column is an effort to help remedy that.
After a great deal of discussion, we are putting an extra
spotlight on five new businesses of merit, with a bit more
attention than the Buzz column can afford. Here they are,
in no particular order, and with some exceptionally enticing
enterprises left on the back burner for a future issue.
Harris Electric Eatery
159 Queen Street East, St. Marys
519-914-8811
facebook.com/HarrisElectricEatery
tuesday–saturday 11:30–2pm; 4:45–8:45pm
sunday & monday closed
The location will be familiar to many as the
former home to some great restaurants, most
recently Chris and Mary Woolf’s Little Reds.
But chef Jordy Carr reached even further
back into the building’s history, when it was
home to Harris Electric until 1979. Given that
his mother’s maiden name was Harris (no
relation), the homage to both town and family
felt right.
Chef Carr worked across the country
before returning to his
hometown with a young
family in tow. Having
been in the industry
for about two decades
(he started when he
was 14!), Carr had run
kitchens but not his
own restaurant. He made a commitment to a
farm-to-table approach, making everything
in house, from preserves to smoked meats
and charcuterie. The atmosphere is familyfriendly
and cozy, with an interesting range
of craft beers on tap. Chef’s goal is to have
“something for everyone” but he keeps the
regular menu manageable and fresh. Expect
great sandwiches and burgers, salads and
perhaps steak frites or a creative take on
tacos. Changing specials frequently reflect
Carr’s interest in Asian and Latino cuisines.
Just ensure that you leave room for dessert!
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
AO Pasta
38 Erie Street, Stratford
519-305-3838
aopasta.com
tuesday–thursday 4:30–9pm,
friday & saturday 4:30–10pm
sunday & monday closed
Boutique Bakery
Buttercream Cakes,
Cookies and
French Macarons
Complimentary
Wedding
Consultations
by Appointment
Open for Walk-in Purchases
THURS & FRI 11–4pm • SAT 10am–2pm
145 Wortley Road, London
Upstairs— above the former Village Harvest Bakery
bakeshopstudio.com
Make HAPPINESS
a part of your day.
❤ ❤ ❤ ❤
❤
AO Pasta is the creation of
Kris and Suzy Schotzhauer,
with the name inspired by
their young children, Axel
and Olive. Chef Kris,
Stratford-raised, honed his
love for pasta at Toronto’s Enoteca Sociale. Chef
Suzy made her mark as a pastry chef in Calgary.
Together now for almost a decade, their
restaurant is as family-centred as the business
name. Open hours are structured to maintain
a balance between work and home life, and
the menu is inventive but accessible, anchored
by — no surprise here — pastas and made-toorder
sauces. Craft beers and a good wine list
are complemented by Italian soft drinks.
Striking a balance between great food and
affordability means counter service without
wait staff and no reservations, with the goal
of filling the gap between fast food joints and
Stratford’s sit-down restaurants. The space,
previously home to The County Food Co., offers
comfortable seating and a casual ambiance.
Procure a table, peruse the “simple and
honest, Italian-inspired menu using seasonal,
locally-sourced products and authentic Italian
ingredients,” then get up to order. You’ll find all
is as advertised, simply delicious. The signature
Arancini — deep-fried risotto balls stuffed with
mozzarella — are highly recommended.
26 | May/June 2019
Streamliners Espresso Bar
767 Talbot St.,St. Thomas
519-631-0999
facebook.com/streamlinersespressobar
monday–wednesday 7am–6pm
thursday & friday 7am–8pm
saturday 7am–6pm
sunday 9am–4pm
First, while Streamliners
can hardly be called “new” (having been open
about two years) it has grown into a truly
chic hotspot of note. It’s located in the heart
of “Railway City,” across the street from the
marvelously restored CASO Station that is
also home to the Las Chicas del Cafe coffee
roastery. Those are the same “coffee chicks”
behind Streamliners, and along with awardwinning
coffee, hearty and healthy breakfast
and lunch options, and delicious pastries,
this a great all-day spot. Open Mike Nights
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
bring in music, and even a Poetry Slam. As
one fan said, “Go for the coffee. Stay for the
atmosphere. The people here are amazing!”
Ivy Ristorante
587 Oxford St E., London
519-601-7707
ivyristorante.com
tuesday–thursday 5pm–10pm
friday & saturday 5pm–11pm
closed sunday & monday
At a time when so many
are turning to a less
formal approach, it’s both
a surprise and refreshing
to see “the best of Italy”
presented with classic fine
dining accoutrements, white linen tablecloths
included. In the former home of Bourbon
Street on Oxford St. at Adelaide, owners
Michael & Karla have transformed the space
with elegant and romantic touches throughout.
The menu is as classic as the decor, with a wine
list offering predominately Old World choices.
Brickhouse Brewpub
190 Fairway Rd, Woodstock
519-290-5347
upperthamesbrewing.ca/brewpub
sunday–thursday 11am–11pm
friday & saturday 11am–late
This is the second location for Upper
Thames Brewing Company (the first locale
at 225 Bysham Park Drive in Woodstock also
has an appealing taproom). Twelve taps are
The menu is unabashedly upscale, with a wide
variety of the Italian canon presented with a
dedication to tradition.
dedicated to their own beer, with
their small-batch approach ideal for
experimentation and limited hardto-find
seasonal offerings. Another
dozen taps rotate other Ontario
craft beers. This is a production
facility too, so there’s a store for
bottles and growlers to go, but a full
kitchen makes this a popular destination for
more than great beer.
A casual pub vibe includes counter service
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
for traditional pub fare that often incorporates
Upper Thames beer. Think Lazy Fox Amber
Ale-Braised Pork Side Ribs with a Gunn’s Hill
cheese-loaded baked potato, or Beef & Ale Pie
filled with local beef, onion, carrots, potato,
mushrooms and Timberbeast Brown Ale. The
food is hearty, the atmosphere is warm and
friendly. Watch the website for special events,
including live music, comedy and more.
grace is delicious + modern canadian + localfocused
+ from scratch + hyper-seasonal +
accessible + welcoming + food-as-ar t + foodas-communit
y + ethical + unpretentious + for
celebrations + for af ter work + beautiful, fun,
demystified wine + curated beer + craf ted
cock tails + coming spring 2019
215 DUNDAS ST · 226 667 4822
INFO@GRACELONDON.CA
GRACERESTAURANTLONDON
GRACELDNONT
Monday–Thursday: 11:30am–9pm
Friday: 11:30am–10pm
Saturday: 11:30am–10pm
Sunday: 11:30am–8pm
NOW OPEN
Reservations: 519-601-7799
1140 Southdale Road West, London
www.bocconcinilondon.ca
Free Parking
28 | May/June 2019
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
SPONSORED BY
Road Trips
Beneath the Plaid
There’s More to Elora
By SUE SUTHERLAND WOOD
The village of Elora has so much to
offer — hiking, quiet walks, fishing,
festivals, scenic views, music,
water activities, history, wildlife
— and of course wonderful places to eat and
drink. Unique shops that have been carefully
restored in keeping with heritage architecture
also offer exciting wares year round. Retaining
tradition, yet constantly evolving to present
something new makes Elora an ideal road trip
destination — for any season.
At Elora Mercantile (eloramercantile.ca),
vivacious Patti Boutin, speaks ardently about
being “a general store with a conscience.” This
credo is reflected in choices that are always
organic, local when possible and predominantly
made in-house by Patti herself, with assistance
from her mother Michele, who
brings a charming Québécois
sensibility to many of the offerings.
Like all of the vendors in Elora,
they have a stalwart concern for
the environment (bottled water
is simply not available, anywhere). Re-fillable
containers are used for many of the products.
Patti invited me to try a few samples and
both the quality and unique selections were
impressive. Cretons, a rich meat spread beloved
in Quebec, and its French cousin rillettes, made
with duck and pork, come attractively packaged
in glass jars and were moist and fragrant when
spread on a crispbread. Piping hot wontons were
succulent
pillows of
duck meat.
A variety
of cheeses
including
Wild Nettle
and Black
The Elora Mercantile’s Patti
Boutin, left, and her mother
Michele, are but two of a
large number of irrepressible
personalities that have found a
home in beautiful Elora.
A view of the Grand River as it flows through Elora
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
May/June 2019 | 29
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
The Evelyn combines French-inspired fine dining in a
vintage setting, with a warm, unpretentious approach.
Top photo by Mike Nagy @ Transparent Kitchen.
Dessert photo, below, by Dan Dunlop MacLean.
Truffle, onion confit, tender samosas with
a sharp coriander chutney, and many jewel
toned jellies such as Spicy Northern Crab Apple
rounded out the feast. Michele also presented
me with their satiny smooth maple crème brûlée
— I was very sad indeed when it was finished.
Turkey, Meat and Boeuf Bourguignon pies
are also popular take-home items from the
store freezer. It’s clear that Patti understands
that people work hard and deserve a
homemade treat that they can feel good about.
She is already planning the launch of an old
school picnic basket — complete with blanket
and shop selections — that can be enjoyed and
then returned at the end of the day.
The Evelyn (theevelynrestaurant.com)
is an intimate French-inspired restaurant
that combines fine dining with a welcoming,
unpretentious environment. The vintage interior
décor with gilded pineapple light fixtures, an
elegant wall mural and candlelit seating, make
it difficult to believe that The Evelyn has not
yet been open a year. Like many others, owner
MacLean Hann was drawn to the less frenetic
way of life available in Elora and the restaurant
has flourished with the local support and
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
friendliness of the community. The menu offers
five entrées and there are sharing opportunities
in the chaud and froid section such as mussels
or pork terrine. I enjoyed the Coq au Vin (made
with Cornish Game Hen) and a green salad
featuring shaved radish, pickled shallot, roasted
pear and dried cranberries in a chardonnay
vinaigrette which was divine, artfully presented
on blue and white willow china. The portions
were absolutely spot on and left me able to enjoy
an oozing, still slightly warm butter tart served
up with Kawartha ice cream.
Greg Dove has already been working at Elora
Bread Trading Co. (elorabread.ca/our-bread) for
about six hours when we meet at 10 a.m., but
this father of twins still looks freshly scrubbed
and cheerful as the door opens into the moist,
inviting smell of freshly baked bread. Large
bags of flour bear playful names like “Rye
Humour” and Greg is quick to mention 1847
Stone Milling in Fergus (1847.ca) for producing
organic grains and a discriminating product.
The mill actually brought a stone burr mill from
Europe in 2013, once it was clear that they were
going to make a go of it.
Modern Skincare Made with Love
The Forest City’s
all-natural small-batch
skincare company
Locally Handcrafted Curated Boutique
incense, home decor, DIY supplies,
jewellery, crystals, tarot cards, eco-friendly
items and so much more ...
Greg Dove and his small staff at Elora Bread Trading Co.
turn out about 800 loaves every week. Photo: Doug North
Greg and his small staff turn out about
800 loaves every week and well over 1,000 in
peak season. The bakery offers an extensive
selection — choices vary daily — with a
naturally-leavened sourdough as a constant.
Elora Bread Trading Co. also has a tempting
lunch menu and the sandwiches are especially
popular with locals. Quality and sustainability
shine here as well with mayonnaise, hummus
and pesto all made in-house. Greg is a relative
newcomer to Elora and he also cites the warm
support of a community that reflects a united
vision of food integrity.
Elora Brewing Co. ( elorabrewingcompany.
ca) is in a building that was originally an old
111 Mount Pleasant Ave., London
Monday–Friday: 10AM – 6PM
Saturday & Sunday: 10AM – 4PM
+1 519 630 5305
info@purdynatural.ca
purdynatural.ca
Boho Bazaar Night Market
Community is our passion. We support
and sell local, and create events where
everyone can gather and grow together.
Stay updated on events @purdynatural
@bohobazaarnightmarket
32 | May/June 2019
At neighbourhood bar and restaurant The Porch Light,
you’ll find one of the largest whiskey selections in the
region, along with a lively and friendly atmosphere
hardware store but which has been converted to a
gastropub/craft brewery. It’s a lively, comfortable spot
to have a bite and sample some award-winning beer.
Elora Borealis, a Gold Medal winner at the Ontario
Brewing Awards last year, is clean and fruity and
one of many to choose from, both bottled and on
tap. Locally-sourced menu choices are delicious and
hearty with an emphasis on farm-to-table philosophy
and staff are knowledgeable and pleasant. The EBC’s
interior is yet another example of repurposing, with
the original tin ceiling now adorning the bar and firescarred
beams dating back to the 1800s still visible en
route to the mezzanine level. Spotless stainless steel
vats remind diners that the brewery is directly on site,
lending a cool industrial vibe. It’s obvious that a great
deal of hard work and attention to detail is paying off
and will ensure EBC’s continued success.
The Porch Light (porchlightelora.com) is a singular,
intimate spot that has quickly forged a place in Elora’s
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
heart. With its clever octopus wallpaper
and funky, custom bar stools (made by
local artisan Mike Hintermeister using
re-claimed steel), the general vibe here is
full-on, unapologetically Irish pub. That
is also reflected in its having one of the
largest selections of whiskey in Southern
Ontario, over 30 from around the world
including the twice-distilled Kilbeggan.
Tayto’s Cheese and Onion crisps are
here to go with it too! There is a quirky
selection of specialty cocktails/mocktails
and the companionable website
suggestion that if you don’t see what
you want: “just ask, chances are we can
make it anyway!” Sunday nights herald
the “Porch Light Sessions” with live
music. There are hopes to expand further
outside during the summer months.
An eclectic menu offers many choices
from traditional Irish soup to a selection
of artisanal boards and there is a kids’
menu. All foods are chosen carefully and
the website notes “we know where our
products come from and we are proud to
highlight the best of the best.”
Janet Etherington’s The Cellar Pub &
Grill (thecellarpubelora.com) is enjoying
its ninth year of business. When
asked about the Elora camaraderie
Elora Mill offers a range of unique
rooms and suites, many with
breathtaking views of the Grand
River and the gorge
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
everyone talks about she raises her hands
playfully and smiles, “Born and raised in Fergus!”
She shrewdly recognized early on that
this is where she wanted to be, and that passion
is still evident.
Janet has worked with Chef Kevin Zuber for
many years and
credits his ability
to provide affordable,
quality dishes
(including glutenfree,
vegan, and vegetarian
choices) as
being a big part of
The Cellar’s success.
The menu offers
house specialties
such as Lemon &
Herb Basa Fish and
the salads are especially
noteworthy.
Watermelon and
feta with blueberry
vinaigrette can be
topped with grilled
chicken, salmon,
shrimp or smoked
tofu. A stunning
outside patio at the
back is unexpected
and like entering a
painting, as the river
is silvery calm here
and one can enjoy
a drink watching
ducks (and sometimes
swans) gliding
Enjoy fine dining at
affordable prices at The
Cellar Pub and Grill, by
the river. The Cellar also
offers accommodations
with a river view.
Dining
Thames
Locally Sourced Ingredients
Authentic Italian Cuisine
Local Craft Beers
Exclusive to Southwestern Ontario
Small-Batch Region-Specific
Organic Wine by the Glass or Bottle
Take Out & Gift Certificates Available
Open for Lunch and Dinner
Tuesday through Saturday
www.fatolive.ca
2135 Dorchester Rd., Dorchester
519-268-0001
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
There’s more than outstanding craft beer at Elora
Brewing Company. The Kitchen supports local farmers
and producers, offers “playful” beer and food pairings,
and even has an on-site butchery. Photos: Doug North
past. Janet is an enthusiastic participant in the
Swan Conservation program and everyone looks
forward to a sighting.
During our time in Elora we were fortunate
enough to stay at The White Garden (febba.ca)
where hosts Karen and David Drimmie offer
a pampered bed and breakfast experience in
the setting of their stately home. Bright, highceilinged
rooms are filled with thoughtfully
placed art and statuary while plants billow freely
out of pots in sunny corners. The atmosphere
here is tranquility — not museum. Our room
was quietly elegant with an excellent bed and
stained glass doors. A private bathroom was
delightful with an oversized shower, modern
fixtures and plenty of hot water. We loved every
minute — including some excellent conversation
and a breakfast served on vintage china.
The Elora Mill (eloramill.ca) has been an
imposing and majestic landmark since it was
built over 175 years ago. Its location offers
dramatic views of both the Gorge and the
Grand River thundering beneath. After a series
of incarnations and sadly, some neglect, the
former grist mill (one of the few five-storey
Ontario mills still in existence) has recently
been transformed into a luxury hotel and spa
by Pearle Hospitality owner, Aaron Ciancone
— but with a genuine sensitivity and respect
not often seen. Twenty seven million dollars
in renovations included carefully repointing
stone, the creation of the Mill’s own power
plant to take advantage of the Grand River’s
hydro potential, thirty opulent guest rooms,
many featuring breath taking views and
every imaginable luxury, ‘The Granary’ with a
rooftop garden suitable for special events and
weddings, and an elegant dining room with
seating overlooking the river and falls. The site
of the Mill’s stables have also been re-imagined
as a new spa complex and incorporates cliffside
views of the gorge.
We enjoyed lunch in Elora Mill’s dining
room which provides an authentic vista to
the river and gorge below. The atmosphere
is stylish but friendly and our server was
especially good. I particularly admired the
staff uniforms, which included long brown
tailored aprons as chic as a Burberry scarf and
flattering to both male and female servers.
The menu offered traditional mains and I
selected the frittata which was sinking with
mushrooms and tangy sheep’s milk cheese;
my partner ordered salmon which was cooked
to flaking pink perfection.
For those who want to combine Elora’s
history, scenic beauty and the Grand River
consider a “punt” tour. These 20-foot Englishstyle
punts, hand-crafted by Ken Thompson,
are similar to gondolas. Thompson’s company,
Elora Raft Rides (eloraraftrides.com) offers
guided or self-piloted options as well as
a myriad of customizations from white
water to twilight tours to specialty (add a
musician, a historian — or a picnic basket!)
to eco-cruising (400 million year old fossils,
anyone?) Thompson notes that the flatbottomed
punts are manageable for seniors
and stringent safety precautions are in place.
Ken’s sincere passion for Elora’s history
presents a unique opportunity to spend some
time on the river.
Choose whatever you want to do in Elora
— you’ll be so glad that you came!
SUE SUTHERLAND-WOOD is a freelance writer and
regular contributor to Eatdrink. Read more of Sue’s work
at www.speranzanow.com
DOUG NORTH is an enthusiastic photographer, writer
and historian living in London.
Sue and Doug were guests of ELORA & FERGUS
TOURISM (elorafergus.ca), which did not review or
approve the contents of this article.
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
Beer
For the Love of Lager
Craft Brewers Take on Big Beer Brands
by GEORGE MACKE
May/June 2019 | 35
Big beer, move over. Craft lagers are
gunning for your core brands. Small
batch microbrewers once shunned
making lagers in favour of ales,
mostly because lagers take more tank time
and major brands had lager fans sewn up.
But no more. There’s been an explosion in
the number of thirst-quenching craft lager
offerings as independent brewers respond to
demand from fans for less hoppy options.
Still, don’t expect a craft lager to taste
anything like a Budweiser, the North
American standard for an easy-to-drink pale
ale. Once you start exploring craft lagers
and their clever flavour nuances, Bud will
come across as watery.
(Fun fact: Bud is brewed to exacting
standards of consistency so that, for
example, a Bud brewed in London using
Great Lakes water will taste the same as one
from the original brewery in St. Louis. Craft
lagers could vary batch-to-batch.)
Not every lager from craft brewers is a
pale lager or a pilsner. Helles, marzen, dunkel
and Schwarzbier lager styles are all brewed by
various microbreweries and are more flavourful
lagers to sip and savour.
Fresh and local, craft lagers are where it’s
at from Victoria Day to Labour Day, on decks
and docks everywhere. Here are 12
to seek, taste and compare.
Long Pond Lager, Bayside
Brewing — I’ll bet the folks at this
little brewery on the shore of Lake
Erie pictured a day of fishing when
they developed the recipe for this
honey-aroma lager. Along the way,
they hooked those of us who’ve never cast a
line. The LCBO suggests pairing it with tacos
or burgers. I prefer pairing it with a wood-fired
Bayfield Classic pizza and a waterfront view at
the brewery in pretty Erieau.
Shindig, Cowbell Brewing — A
German-style pilsner brewed in Blyth
using all Canadian barley malt and hops
imported from Germany, Shindig has
become hugely popular. I picture Huron
County farmers reaching for it as a
twilight, end-of-workday reward. True
to style, Shindig is low in bitterness
with a character described as bready.
Square One Pilsner, Square
Brewing — Can you be a microbrewery
in a beach town and
not offer a lager? Square Brew
in Goderich offers a classic
refresher with Square One, which,
36 | May/June 2019
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like Cowbell’s Shindig, is brewed with Canadian
malt and German hops. Square also does a
Vienna-style lager, which is dark and malty,
called Vienna is Waiting.
Daly Pil, Herald Haus Brewing — The yearold
Stratford brewery has a new light pilsner
which hasn’t yet passed my
lips. It’s 4.7 per cent alcohol
and described by the brewery
as classically crisp. Herald
Haus also has Dingman Dark
Lager, named in honour of
Stratford’s first mayor, brewed with intensely
dark (and local) Midnight wheat malt.
Oops, It Fell Out, Stonepicker Brewing
Co. — This pilsner from a farm-based brewery
in Forest uses barley malted on
site. At 5.75 per cent alcohol, it’s
more potent than most and at 5
IBU, it’s the malt-forward anti-IPA.
Undertone, Storm Stayed
Brewing — The beer board
constantly gets revised as recipes
come and go at this strip mall
microbrewery on Wharncliffe Road
in London. Undertone’s
cool factor is that it’s a lager
brewed with purple corn.
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Waterloo Craft Lager — One of Ontario’s
oldest continuously operating craft
breweries, Waterloo Brewing marks
a milestone 35 years of beer-making
by introducing a new lager — a yin
to the yang of Waterloo Dark. Widely
distributed at the Beer Store and LCBO,
this new craft lager is
sessionable at 4.7 per cent
alcohol, and versatile with
summertime food pairings.
Waterloo Pilsner —
Waterloo Craft Lager’s older and
wiser sibling has more bitterness
and is highly touted for pairing
with seafoods from calamari to
fish and chips.
Liquid Schwartz, Forked
River Brewing — Some
like it dark. Lagers need not
be light and sessionable.
London’s Forked River brews
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a Schwarzbier dark lager which, last I checked,
was still available at the 45 Pacific Court
brewery. As the brewery says, think roasty
pilsner. Better suited to cool weather, Liquid
Schwartz still resonates as a ratcheting down
from ports and stouts.
London Natural Lager, London Brewing
— The microbrew co-op on Burbrook Place
made beer drinkers throughout
Southwestern Ontario stand up and
take notice with this flavourfulyet-accessible
lager recipe. London
Natural Lager is brewed in the
Munich helles style. They’ve used
North American Sterling hops, which
provide a spice and herb aroma.
Available in distinctive silver cans at
the brewery, Beer Store, and LCBO,
remember to pour it in a nonic glass
or, in a pinch, a red Solo cup. Pairs best with
hot summer nights, campfires, and loons.
Country Pilsner, Ramblin’ Road Brewery
Farm — They don’t mind taking it slow down
on the farm. Czech-style and richly-flavoured,
Country Pilsner starts smooth and ends bitter.
May/June 2019 | 39
It pairs with sausage, chicken,
and fish as main courses or light
desserts such as fresh berries with
whipped cream, according to the
brewery’s cheat sheet. Ramblin’
Road is near Delhi.
Astro Pils, Sons of
Kent Brewing —
Chatham-based Sons of
Kent takes a page from both German
and Czech pilsner styles to create
Astro Pils. They’ve used both Czech
Saaz hops and German Select. The
result, as expected, is a crisp beer.
It’s 5 per cent alcohol and at 32 IPU,
bitterness beckons with a whisper
and a wink.
Lager Alternatives
If your favourite craft brewery doesn’t have a
lager, reach for a cream ale or American pale ale.
Great local examples are Anderson Cream Ale
and Homecoming APA from Powerhouse.
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40 |
Wine
Cool Ontario Chardonnays
A Crisp Taste of Our Climate
by GARY KILLOPS
Ontario is a cool
climate wine
region, but
what does that
really mean?
Because of the lower
temperatures, grapes
grown in cool climates
tend to preserve their
acidity. The wines tend
to be crisper and often
lower in alcohol.
The fruit flavours
lean towards tree
fruits such as
apple and peach
rather than tropical
fruit notes like
pineapple.
Some wines,
such as chardonnay,
tend to express the
climate that the grapes are grown in.
The I4C
The 9th annual I4C, or International Cool
Climate Chardonnay Celebration, runs from
Friday, July 19 to Sunday July 21 in Niagara,
Ontario. Winemakers from cool climate
regions around the world will converge to
talk, sip, and share the chardonnays that they
have produced. Tickets for the weekend-long
event are already on sale and some of the
popular events sell out fast.
The I4C offers a choice of wine, food and
educational experiences that will showcase
Ontario’s most popular and most planted
grape, along with cool climate chardonnays
from other regions around the world such as
Chablis and Champagne France, Southern
Australia, Northern California, New Zealand
and Nova Scotia.
Popular events such as “Flights of
Chardonnay” offer those attending the
opportunity to taste chardonnays poured
by the winemakers from regions around the
world. The event is held at the Niagara District
Airport and features five Niagara restaurants
offering small bites (for a fee) that pair well
with cool climate chardonnays.
On Saturday July 20 the Canadian Food and
Wine Institute will host a cool climate world
tour tasting and dinner at Niagara College.
This event is often the pinnacle event of the
weekend.
Grape Growers of Ontario will also host
an event on Saturday afternoon called “Kick
The Dirt.” Those attending this event tour
vineyards in Niagara and meet with the some
of the passionate grape growers. The growers
will discuss the soils, climate, and the vine
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
management techniques used to produce
their award winning chardonnays.
HAPPENS!
A total of 50 wineries (28 Ontario and
22 from other regions) will be showcasing
chardonnay over the weekend, in seven
organized tasting events. Visit the I4C
website at CoolChardonnay.org for more
information on the events, times and prices.
Why Choose Chardonnay?
Chardonnay is a versatile grape. It can be aged in
oak to add flavour complexity. It can be used to
make sparkling wine and can also be fermented
dry or left with a touch of sweetness.
Chardonnay is grown in all three of
Ontario’s VQA wine appellations.
Approximately 125 wineries in Ontario
produce chardonnay. It is used in 18% of
Ontario’s annual total production and is
most often fermented to a dry style.
Here are several of Ontario’s cool
climate chardonnays for you to
consider.
Fielding 2017 Unoaked
Chardonnay (Vintages #164491,
$15.95) — This is a clean, fruit
forward chardonnay.
Red apple, melon, and
nectarine fruits linger
on the palate for quite
some time. It is crisp,
clean and refreshing. An
easy sipping wine that highlights
Ontario’s cooler climate.
Consider serving this one as
an aperitif, or with some light
appetizers.
Southbrook 2016 Triomphe
Organic Chardonnay
(Vintages #172338, $24.95) —
Quite a complex chardonnay.
Fresh peach, lemon, and green
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apples, ginger spice, butterscotch, and vanilla.
With a medium plus body it has some weight
to it. Ontario’s cool climate is expressed in the
vibrant acidity that leads to a lingering finish.
Will pair nicely with creamy Parmesan garlic
mushroom chicken.
Cave Spring Estate 2016 Chardonnay
(Vintages #256552, $19.95) — Fresh green
apple notes, lemon peel citrus. Lighter in
style than one might expect, resulting in a
graceful, elegant chardonnay. The elevated
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acidity allows this wine to be paired
with fried chicken and other fried
dishes.
Flat Rock “The Rusty
Shed” Chardonnay
2016 (Vintages
#1552, $21.75) — This
is a big, full-bodied
chardonnay leading
with oak dominated
notes. Rich and
complex. Apple
and citrus notes
balance the oaky
vanilla very well.
The wine’s creamy texture will
entice anyone who loves this big,
oaky style of wine.
Closson Chase
Vineyard 2016
Chardonnay (Vintages
#148866, $29.95) — The 2017
vintage was released on April
1. Bottles of the 2016 vintage,
which are from a warmer
vintage for Prince Edward
County, are still available
at select locations. Ripe
apple, pear and citrus fruit,
creamy butter, vanilla
and butterscotch notes
complement. Well-balanced
and deliciously complex!
GARY KILLOPS is a CAPS Certified Sommelier who
loves to talk, taste, and write about wine. He shares his
tasting notes on EssexWineReview.com
More Local VQA Chardonnays
Aleksander Estate Winery
2013 Chardonnay, $16.00
Alton Farms Estate Winery
2017 Unoaked Chardonnay, $23.00
2016 Oaked Chardonnay, $16.00
Colchester Ridge Estate Winery
2016 Chardonnay, $13.95
2016 Flagship Chardonnay, $19.95
Colio Estate Wines
2016 Bricklayer’s Predicament Chardonnay, $13.95
2015 Girls’ Night Out Chardonnay, $10.95
Cooper’s Hawk Vineyards
2013 Barrel Fermented Chardonnay, $17.95
2016 Chardonnay Musqué, $16.95
2015 Unoaked Chardonnay, $14.95
Mastronardi Estate Winery
2013 Chardonnay, $14.00
Oxley Estate Winery
2017 Chardonnay, $18.95
Pelee Island Winery
2017 Chardonnay, $12.45
2016 Chardonnay Reserve, $13.95
2012 Chardonnay Vinedressers, $17.95
Sprucewood Shores Estate Winery
2016 Unoaked Chardonnay, $14.95
2016 Barrel Chardonnay Hawk’s Flight
Reserve, $22.15
Viewpoint Estate Winery
2013 Chardonnay, $16.95
Vivace Estate Winery
2016 Chardonnay, $17.00
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48 | May/June 2019
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Theatre
Summertime ...
And the Theatre Is ... Diverse!
By JANE ANTONIAK
It is fair to say there is something for everyone this
summer at regional theatres. An elephant with ties to
St. Thomas (any guesses?) shows up in Blyth, while the
saga of the Donnelly’s from Lucan hits the stage at Port
Stanley. There’s also Canadiana from Norm Foster who goes to
Lunenburg, Nova Scotia and delivers the story home to Lake
Erie. Another legendary Canadian playwright, Dan Needles,
brings his iconic rural reflections twice this season — to Blyth
and also to Port Stanley. And hot on the heels of last summer’s
curling hit comes another comedy by Stratford writer Mark
Crawford, Bed and Breakfast, also at Blyth. This and so much
more is detailed below to help you map out your summer
theatre trips.
While summer theatre is usually lighter fare to match the
carefree season, we are going to be challenged as well. Blyth’s
artistic director Gil Garratt has taken on one of the most serious
crimes of our region, the murders of seniors by former nurse
Elizabeth Wettlaufer, and co-written it into a play. We start our
summer theatre roundup in Blyth, located 95 kilometres north
of London.
Blyth Festival Theatre
Blyth Festival Theatre is celebrating its 45th season with a
deepened commitment to producing Canadian stories for the
stage. It kicks off its anniversary season on June 14 with a
world premiere, Jumbo. Anyone who has driven into St. Thomas
will have seen the statue of this famous elephant from P.T.
Barnum’s circus. The statue marks the tragic ending of Jumbo
the elephant, hit and killed by a train in Southwestern Ontario’s
“railway city”. Playwright Sean Dixon and Director Garratt have
set out to tell the story on stage of Jumbo’s fame, which lives on
in local lore. Pass the peanuts and get ready for a nostalgic show.
Heading into Canada Day weekend, Blyth brings back a 1984
premiere, Cakewalk, written by Colleen Curran and directed
by Kelli Fox. Imagine today’s baking wars television shows set
in the 1980s. It is a good thing there are delicious cookies for
sale in the Blyth community hall as you are sure to get hungry
watching this show!
Dan Needles of Wingfield fame has two shows at Blyth this
season. There is a pre-season performance May 23–25 of True
Confessions from the Ninth Concession, followed
later in the summer by The Team on the Hill
directed by Severn Thompson.
“This is a season full of spectacle, comedy,
The playlist this season at Blyth Festival Theatre
includes (from the top): Team on the Hill; Jumbo; In the
Wake of Wettlaufer; Cakewalk; and Bed and Breakfast.
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
drama, and current affairs; a season full of
larger-than-life creatures, and true-to-life
stories; a season that exemplifies our mission
to give voice to the region and the country.
Our 45th consecutive season of producing the
best in new Canadian plays,” says Garratt.
Garratt had landed in some controversy
as we went to print over his decision to
co-write and direct a new play which has its
roots in the tragic nursing home murders by
Wettlaufer. At least one family member of a
victim is calling for a boycott of In the Wake of
Wettlaufer. Garratt has publically stated that
he sees the play as a vehicle of change when it
comes to the country’s health system. He has
also shared on Blyth’s social media site how
the play was developed.
In the post Garratt said “long term care in
Ontario is in crisis”, and feels the conversation
created by the play is “urgent, relevant, and
necessary.” Props to Blyth for taking on the
difficult with the charming this season.
The theatre and the impressive Cowbell
Brewery have brought tourism back to this
corner of Huron County. Take some time for a
self-guided tour of the brewing premises and
giving
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50 | May/June 2019
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
enjoy some local taps for those who are recording beer
tastings in their apps. Cowbell also offers a full menu
for lunch and dinner. It is a busy spot so book ahead.
blythfestival.com
Port Stanley Festival Theatre
The recently renovated Port Stanley Theatre is a perfect
little jaunt from London on a summer’s day or evening.
Allow space in your schedule for the Lake Erie perch
offered at local restaurants. It can’t be beat! The theatre
itself is now licensed and offers drinks before the show
and at intermission on two patios. It is located right on
the harbor in Port Stanley, next to the bridge.
The theatre company has expanded the season from
five to six shows running from May 21 to September
7. It is a delightful mix of mystery, music and comedy.
Artistic director Simon Joynes has created quite the
playlist for the summer. “Our 2019 season is an exciting
blend of Canadian stories taking our patrons from the
intimate concert setting of Jeff Culbert’s The Wildest
Town in Canada: Donnelly Songs and Stories to Norm
Foster’s Lunenburg through the world premiere of
Giving Up The Ghost and Jamie Williams’ madcap period
farce It’s Your Funeral. We’re excited by the size of the
season, by the design challenges, and by the fact that it’s
our biggest season to date with six unique productions.”
Joynes explains that they’ve gone to a larger season
because it challenges them to become better at what
they do, and because it increases the variety of programming
that they can offer their patrons. psft.ca
Victoria Playhouse Petrolia
Last year’s hit at the Blyth Festival, The New Canadian
Curling Club, saw a successful run in Alberta this past
winter. It now returns to our region August 6-25 at
Victoria Playhouse Petrolia. This delightful poke at our
obsession with the game is a comedy. New Canadians
learn the skills and traditions from a crusty rink rat
coach. Any curling fan will simply love it.
Victoria Playhouse Petrolia is a busy spot, with the
longest season in our area for local theatre this summer.
It opens on April 30 with a tribute show to Carole
Victoria Playhouse Petrolia
The summer line-up at Port Stanley Festival
Theatre includes (from the top): The Wildest
Town in Canada: Donnelly Songs and Stories,
“Like Father, Like Son? Sorry.”, Lunenburg,
Giving Up The Ghost, and Ed’s Garage.
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May/June 2019 | 51
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52 | May/June 2019
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King and James Taylor and wraps
up fittingly in late October with
Dracula, a Chamber Musical. This
production sees the return of David
Rogers as co-artistic director in the
same production he performed on
the Stratford Festival stage back in
the late 1990s. thevpp.ca
Stratford Festival
Last issue we published a feature
interview with Donna Feore,
choreographer and director at
The Stratford Festival, hot on the
heels of last season’s hit The Rocky
Horror Show. This year she is busy
again at Stratford with two big
shows: Billy Elliot and Little Shop of Horrors.
They both open in late May. It looks like an
amazing season at Stratford. Congratulations
to artistic director Antoni Cimolino, who has
had his term extended through to the 2024
season. No surprise there as Stratford posted
a $1.9-million surplus, with a 10% increase
in attendance to 502,605 in 2018. It was
their longest season on record, running into
Stratford Festival presents Shakespeare’s The Merry Wives of Windsor
from May 11 – October 26, directed by Antoni Cimolino. Above, from
left: Brigit Wilson, Sophia Walker, and Geraint Wyn Davies.
Creative Direction by Punch & Judy Inc. Photography by David Cooper.
December, thanks to the mega fans of Rocky
Horror. More than 100,000 patrons saw the
show. stratfordfestival.ca
JANE ANTONIAK is a regular contributor to Eatdrink.
She is also Manager, Communications & Media Relations,
at King’s University College in London.
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May/June 2019 | 53
London
The goal of the Culinary Federation of Chefs &
Cooks is to unite chefs and cooks across Canada in a
common dedication to professional excellence. The
Federation was founded in 1963 and incorporated
in Ottawa as a non-profit association in 1972.
Throughout its history as Canada’s largest federally
chartered professional chefs’ organization, the name
of the federation has undergone several changes to
recognize the chef’s continually changing role in the
kitchen and education. Membership in the Culinary
Federation is available to any and all persons with
career paths as a Cook Apprentice, Journeyman
Cook, Professional Chef/Cook or Culinary
Professional. culinaryfederation.ca
Congratulations to Vanessa and Pete Willis of
The Church Key Bistro-Pub. Downtown London’s
landmark restaurant with farm-to-table cuisine
and an impressive selection of wine and craft beers
is celebrating 10 years in business on May 1. 476
Richmond St. 519-936-0960, thechurchkey.ca
We’re crazy for the gnocchi at Radu Rotariu’s
recently opened Bocconcini at Southdale and
Hyde Park Road. Chef David Taylor’s pillowy
potato dumplings with braised beef, cabernet and
wild mushrooms are authentic and classic Italian
cuisine. The manicotti is out of this world and the
silky tiramisu otherworldly. 1140 Southdale Road
West, 519 601-7799
Eduard Nagy and Anita Tasonyi have taken
over operations at London’s landmark Budapest
Restaurant. Signature dishes include a variety of
superb schnitzels, chicken paprikash, goulash and
The BUZZ
Culinary Community Notes
More than just a Coffee Shop!
iconic Hungarian cabbage rolls. The restaurant
has long served as one of the city’s quintessential
European restaurants for dining out. The familyrun
restaurant offers banquet facilities and is
available for lunch and dinner parties, celebrations,
business meetings, and weddings. There is a
seasonal street-side patio. 348 Dundas Street, 519-
439-3431, budapestrestaurant.net
Angelina & Carmine Ianni, formerly of Pasquales,
opened C’Angelina and retail prepared foods and
fresh meats as well as offering family-style catering
— including BBQ whole pigs. Check out the sausage
making classes. You also will find them at London
festivals this summer and at the Pinery Market in
Grand Bend. 426 Third St, Tuesday–Friday, 1–6 p.m.
facebook.com/cangelinameatcatering/
Aroma of India owner Venkat Matta and chef Sunil
Kumar offer well-seasoned Indian cookery with
plant-based, lamb, chicken and shrimp dishes at
different levels of spice. We like the crisp onion
bhajias and spicy Chana Masala. There are varieties
of locally-brewed Coolindia featuring traditional
Sanskrit names on offer. Open for lunch and dinner.
Closed Mondays, 350 Dundas Street, 519-601-5353,
aromaofIndia.ca
Olha and Anatolii Prytkova’s family-owned
Happiness Coffee and Desserts, on Wellington
Street across from One London Place, features
European-style coffee and scratch baking, including
seasonal and specialty cakes, macarons, cupcakes
and chocolates. The name Happiness comes from
when the Prytkovas were home in Ukraine. A friend
bought a box of cakes that Olha had baked and said
PATIO
OPEN!
24
Gelato
Flavours!
Including Gluten-Free,
Vegan & Dairy-
Free Options
Gelato to Go in ½ litre & 1 litre containers
Try our new Gelato Paninis!
Pour Over Coffee Bar
Iced Coffee
Open Daily 8am–9pm
825 Southdale Rd W, London
519-652-1607
creambeanerycafe.com
54 | May/June 2019
it was like a box of happiness, and the name stuck.
430 Wellington St., 519-204-2854
Edo Peljhi of Garlic’s of London is this year’s
recipient of the Fanshawe College Tourism,
Hospitality and Culinary Arts award for Industry
Supporter of the Year. There is tremendous
demand for trained hospitality professionals across
the globe, and Fanshawe’s programs provide a solid
foundation to set participants on a career path that
could take them anywhere in the world.
“Elles sont Food, and You?” is open to women
chefs, sous-chefs, pastry chefs, cooks and food
entrepreneurs, living in Ontario and involved in
the gastronomy scene. The culinary competition
is an event organized by the Consulate General
of France in Toronto, in partnership with the Ted
Rogers School of Hospitality and Management,
Ryerson University. The goal for the participants is
to showcase the culinary culture of Ontario and/or
France by creating the best cocktail party possible.
For this, they will have to rely not only on the
specificity of French culinary culture but also on
the diversity and richness of Ontario cuisine with
the objective of showcasing the best local Canadian
and/or French ingredients.ellessontfoodandyou.ca
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
The 2019 Hospitality Awards Gala, presented
by the Ontario Restaurant Hotel and Motel
Association›s London Region, will take place
at the London Convention Centre on June 17.
londonhospitalityawards.com
There are plenty of changes for brothers Gregg
and Justin Wolfe this spring. Originally, the Wolfe
brothers had planned to refigure the recently
closed Wolfe of Wortley space to build a new
pizzeria, but after finding the London Pride Fish
and Chips on Chester Street at Ridout vacant, they
altered their vision. They will now be opening the
pizzeria which they will call Through Thick and
Thin in the London Pride space. More recently, they
opened a smaller incarnation of The Early Bird —
their iconic downtown diner — known as the Little
Bird Café in the former Wolfe of Wortley space.
The brothers had already taken over the former
premises of the Village Harvest Bakery next door
and plan to expand and rebrand as The Wolfe Pack
Company Bar. The brothers also own and operate
Los Lobos — think modern Mexican flavours, with
innovative riffs and ideas with lots of cool Mexican
imagery and local references. London watches for
their next moves with great interest!
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
We popped by Wortley Village’s hospitable Bake
Shop Studio to visit owner Kate St Laurent and her
hospitable crew. This boutique bakery specializes
in beautiful, made-from-scratch cakes and pastries.
When they aren’t baking they offer hands-on
baking classes and mentorship for artisan bakers.
They are open Thursday and Friday 11-4pm and
Saturdays 10am-2pm. A selection of small pastries
and cupcakes are available to purchase for walk-in
clients. One of London’s well-kept secrets, the
bakery is located upstairs at 145 Wortley Road.
bakeshopstudio.com
From Pottage to Pinperneau: The Eldon House
Cookbooks. This exhibit will display and interpret
several historical cookbooks in the museum’s
collection and elaborate on the origins, uses and
terminology of these wonderful examples of social
history. The Eldon House Collection holds several
books of cookery — from printed materials to hand
inscribed “receipt” books. Historical cookbooks
contain more than just tips on turning a “joint of
meat to perfection;” they are encyclopedias of
domestic advice, encompassing recipes for home
remedies and medicinal treatments as well as
delicious desserts. June through November.
Afternoon tea on the beautiful lawn of Eldon House,
overlooking the Thames River, returns July 2
through August 25, Tuesday through Sunday. Light
Tea is $15.00 (incl. HST) per person and includes a
scone with butter and jam, fresh fruit and a small
dessert item. Full Tea is $26.00 (incl. HST) per
person and includes tea sandwiches, a scone with
butter and jam, fresh fruit and a variety of dessert
items (24 hour advanced registration). 481 Ridout
St. North, eldonhouse.ca
If you love beer and grilled foods you can’t ask for
a better place to enjoy the true tastes of summer
than at the London Beer and BBQ Show on June 14
and 15. Highlights for this year include unique BBQ
and Beer flavours — grill experts are on hand with
live cooking demonstrations. Watch the eatdrink.
ca website for more updates on this show, which
has earned a permanent spot on the June calendar.
New this year: Saturday will be divided into an
afternoon and an evening show. Admission includes
a performace by rockers Sloan on Friday night, and
country favourites The Reklaws on Saturday night.
westernfairdistrict.com/beer-bbq-show
Willie’s Café continues to grow and thrive in the
London Food Incubator at 630 Dundas and will be
celebrating two years at the new location at the
beginning of June. Ian Kennard has expanded the
seating with more tables, comfy chairs and a new
London’s New Culinary Adventure!
African Breakfast
Sundays
“Reasonably priced, fresh, well-executed
Ethiopian cuisine ...” — Bryan Lavery, Eatdrink
• FAMILY FRIENDLY
May/June 2019 | 55
• Vegetarian &
Vegan Options
• Takeout
• Catering
• Reservations
Recommended
ADDIS ABABA Restaurant
Tuesday–Sunday 11am–10pm by reservation
Closed Monday
465 Dundas Street 519 433-4222
www.tgsaddisababarestaurant.com
Loose Leaf Teas & Tisanes
•
Contemporary & Traditional Teaware
•
Fresh Soups, Salads, Cheese Boards,
Fresh-baked Scones,
Tea
& Chocolate
Pairing with
Sweet Brigadeiros
Fri., May 24
Desserts
Mother’s
Day Traditional
Afternoon Tea
Sun., May 12
Noon–2pm
Petojo
@ the Lounge
Indonesian Plantbased
Pop-up &
Tea Pairing Dinner
Sat., June 8 268 Piccadilly Street
(beside Oxford Book Store)
519-601-TEAS (8327) • tealoungelondon.com
WED & THURS 11am-6pm • FRI & SAT 11am-9pm • SUN noon–5pm
56 | May/June 2019
cozy dining area. There is inexpensive municipal
parking off of Queens Ave. and customers are
welcome to use the entrance accessible from the
parking lot. Check out some of the new menu items,
including house-made sodas, lemonades and
specialty desserts. Willie’s continues to provide
catering services with a focus on office/corporate
lunches. willescafeandcatering.com
The outdoor Farmers’ Market at Covent Garden
Market is held on Saturdays from 8 a.m.–1p.m.,
through to December. New this year is a Night
Market on Thursdays from 4–7p.m.
Freshly home-made in the heart of the community
The
Village
Teapot
Licensed
Dine In & Take Out
Catering & Private Events
Breakfast • Brunch • Lunch • Cream Teas
Wed–Fri 10:30–3:30
Sat & Sun 10–2
Reservations
Recommended
Check our website
for our Sunday
Roast Events!
13257 Ilderton Road, Ilderton ON
thevillageteapot.ca
519-298-TEAS (8327)
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
LULU Magazine invites you to enjoy The Latin
American Festival. Experience Latin American art,
music, rhythms and iconic Latin American food in the
Covent Garden Market Square. There will be a Salsa
and Bachata contest. Saturday, June 1, 2–11p.m.
FIESTA London Mexican Festival brings the
sounds, culture and tastes of Mexico to Downtown
London outside in the Covent Garden Market
Square. Sunday, June 2, 11a.m.–9 p.m.
The London Multicultural Festival is a colourful
and family-friendly event offering an opportunity
to have a great time with your family and friends.
Enjoy the diversity, visit the multi-cultural displays,
watch the performers and taste globally-inspired
food at Covent Garden Market Square. Sunday June
9, 11 a.m.–5 p.m.
The Saturday and Sunday Market at Western Fair
is a popular destination for chefs, cooks and food
enthusiasts in search of a wide variety of artisanal
products and seasonal ingredients. Market-goers
love the Market because they can buy high-quality,
farm-fresh goods directly from the person who
produced them, and can find unique products not
available elsewhere in the city. The second floor
Artisans’ Market features over 40 permanent
vendors and a rotating roster of weekly market
table vendors providing friendly personalized
service. Experience a variety of artisans’
products from the culinary arts to the fine arts.
westernfairdistrict.com/market
Recently opened Mint Leaves Indian Kitchen is
geared to serving speedy dine-in or takeaway
cuisine. The owners bring some of the best
authentic Indian cuisines to London. We loved
the fiery Rogan Josh with tender morsels of beef,
the savoury Chicken Biryani and the succulent
Lamb Masala. The chickpea flour pakoras are
crisp and melt in your mouth. Mint Leaves serves
properly prepared Dosa (a type of crepe made from
Featuring
Creative Menus
from Chefs
Erryn Shephard
&
Ben Sandwith
Always Available
for Caterings!
519.238.6224
42 Ontario St. S., Grand Bend
www.finearestaurant.com
Lunch and Dinner — Seasonal Hours
Reservations Recommended
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
In Memoriam
Remembering Tibor Homolay
(A long-serving career hospitality professional)
A Letter from Nino Basacco
I realize this may not be a normal letter, but I need
to let people know of the sudden passing of Tibor
Homolay. For over a decade Tibor was a great
server in our family restaurant. His enthusiasm
and laughter will no longer sound in the dining
room of La Casa, but many of you will always
remember his good cheer and his ceaseless
energy trying to make sure everyone enjoyed their
dining experience.
A proud Hungarian, he claimed he could speak
five languages, including Italian, and yes, he
could. He could also make you dizzy with his
knowledge of wines and foods. And his awareness
of what was going on in the world made for some
very lively discussions.
La Casa will miss Tibor, but not like his dear wife
Maria Homolay (long-time server at Michaels On
The Thames) and daughter Christina will. Our
hearts go out to them. We hope in the next few
days we will be able to host a memorial tribute for
Tibor at La Casa. If you were ever served by Tibor,
you might want to drop into La Casa and sign our
Book of Grateful Memories.
fermented batter) that is stuffed with potato and
served with two varieties of chutney and sambar.
1080 Adelaide St. N., 519-601-9494
The menu at TG’s Addis Ababa Restaurant features
an outstanding offering of elaborately spiced and
perfectly prepared Ethiopian specialties from the East
African culinary canon. Be sure to put TG›s Ethiopian
breakfast on your list for a great culinary adventure
on Sundays. 465 Dundas Street (at Maitland), 519-433-
4222, tgsaddisababarestaurant.com
May/June 2019 | 57
Billy’s Deli has been a downtown landmark for
over 30 years. For lunch, specialty deli sandwiches
like the quintessential Reuben and Montreal
smoked meat are made with a quarter pound of
meat, warm and sliced off the brisket. Interesting
daily blackboard specials are enticing and add
seasonality to the extensive menu. Billy’s is
known for the baking and we love the Potato Latke
Breakfast with Octoberfest sausage, two eggs,
toast, apple sauce and sour cream. 113 Dundas
Street at Talbot, 519-679-1970
Altogether different...
and so very, very tasty!
Catering excellence since 1985
Weddings Pineridge Barbecue Co
Corporate Events
Hensall, ON
Backyard Shakers 1-888-241-8450
Celebrations of Life pineridgebbq.com
Benmiller Inn & Spa
as always, like never before
www.benmiller.ca | 519-524-2191 | 1-800-265-1711
“a gastronomical landmark for over 23 years”
Bistro & Catering
Dietary Needs Lunch Accommodated Mon–Fri
Ample Free Dinner Parking Mon–Sat
Available for Private Parties
46 Blackfriars Street, London | 519-667-4930
blackfriarsbistro.com
FLIGHTS & BITES
HALF PRICE Sharing Plates & Oysters
Tuesday–Friday from 3:30–5:30pm
SUNDAY INDUSTRY NIGHTS
20% OFF!
New Summer Menus & Cocktails!
TUES–SAT Lunch & Dinner 11:30am to Close
SUNDAY Brunch 11am & Dinner
449 Wharncliffe Road South
519.914.2699
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
At Waldo’s on King Bistro & Wine Bar, chef/owner
Mark Kitching’s talented culinary brigade offer
traditional bistro-style selections. This is where
you will find the best organic burger in town. Uberbartender
Greg Simpson rocks the bar at Waldo’s
several nights a week. 130 King Street, (Covent
Garden Market) 519-433-6161
The London Food Truck Association is now booking
for spring and summer events. Reach out for
more information or to find the weekly schedule.
facebook.com/londonfoodtrucks/
PC Cooking Schools at Superstore offer one-hour
weekly daytime “What’s for Dinner?” classes on
Thursdays, Oxford and Gammage 12:30-1:30 p.m.;
Oxford and Hyde Park Road 1-2 p.m. Both locations
offer a schedule of evening classes that run 6:30-
8:30 p.m. Gammage location: “Gluten-Free Seafood
Sensations” with Ankita Vaidya on May 7;”Dinner and
a Book Club - The Nest” (Cynthia D’Aprix Sweeney)
with Chef Barbara Toomer on May 14; “Early Summer
BBQ Favourites” with PC Cooking School Chef on May
28; “Fruitful Dining” with Chef Jamie Chows on June
4; “PC Summer Insiders Collection” on June 11; and
“Celebrate Like the Masters” with Van Houtte Coffee
on June 13, 6:30-8:30 pm. Hyde Park location: “Street
Foods of Egypt” with Paul Abeleira on May 7; “Early
Summer BBQ Favourites” with PC Cooking School
Chef on May 24; “Quick but Delicious French Stews”
with Chef Barbara Toomer on May 27; “PC Summer
Insiders Collection” on June 7; “Celebrate Like the
Masters” with Van Houtte Coffee on June 10; and
“East meets West Indian Fusion” with Ankita Vaidya
on June 25.
Stratford
Stratford Tourism Alliance (STA) celebrates
#nextgen chefs in the 25th edition of the Stratford
Culinary Guide, a staple for restaurants, pubs,
cafés, food shops and producers in Stratford and
area. It continues to be a go-to source for culinary
information in Stratford. The guide was officially
launched at a pop-up event at Richmond Station
in Toronto, owned by Stratford Chefs School’s
graduates and partners, Ryan Donovan and Carl
Heinrich. Eatdrink magazine, Food Editor Bryan
Lavery and other media guests were treated to
tastes created by Stratford Chefs School alumni
by Jamie Crosby of The Prune, Meaghan Evely and
Vincent Stacey from Pazzo Taverna & Pizzeria and
Ryan O’Donnell of Mercer Hall. Craft beverages
were served by Junction 56 Distillery and Black
Swan Brewing Company. The 2019 guide features 12
#nextgen Stratford chef photos in the print version
which is available at Stratford Tourism, local
accommodators and Ontario Travel Centres. Thirty-
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
seven restaurants, food shops and producers
from Stratford and area are featured in the guide.
A digital version of the guide is available online
VisitStratford.ca/culinaryguide
The Stratford Blues & Ribfest will be kicking
off the summer June 21 to 23. This is an outdoor
family-friendly gathering with slow-cooked
BBQ and all types of Blues music in support
of the Boy Scouts and Girls Guides. Licensed
beverages will be available at the bandshell area.
stratfordbluesandribfest.com
Do you want to attend a world-class event
that showcases and supports local agriculture
and features tastings, pairings and delicious
garlic dishes? Then mark your calendar for the
Stratford Kiwanis Garlic Festival, September 7-8.
Keep an eye on the Facebook page for updates.
stratfordgarlicfestival.com
Chef Kris Schlotzhauer and Pastry Chef Suzy
Schlotzhauer recently changed operating hours to
offer dinner service at AO Pasta. Dine inside or on
the patio or order take-out. aopasta.com
The Mill Stone Restaurant & Bar features
seasonally-inspired lunch, dinner and late-night
menus using many locally procured ingredients.
A couple of back tables overlook the Avon River,
and there is a small street-side patio. This year the
restaurant features a late night pop-up snack bar
with a Lao-inspired menu on Saturdays from 10
p.m. to 2 a.m. (Yes, the kitchen is open till 2a.m.). 30
Ontario St., Stratford, 519-273-5886, themillstone.ca
Anne Campion of Revel is committed to the core
values of social justice and serves ethically and
sustainably produced direct trade coffee. She
can be seen pulling espresso shots or making
consistently perfect cortados at Revel, her busy
coffee shop off Stratford’s Market Square. “Our
desire to be for the good of our community, both
locally and globally, informs all our decisions,”
May/June 2019 | 59
says Campion. Launched with the assistance
of just two staff, Campion now employs 18. Two
pastry chefs now bake all of Revel’s pastries in
house, using products from many local farmers.
revelstratford.ca
Celebrate the young stars of this year’s Kiwanis
Festival of the Performing Arts Stratford. Your
family and friends will love the SSO Sunday Brunch
Concert Series at Revival House, offering farm fare,
craft brews, wine and music. These fundraising
events feature local performers in support of the
LUNCH Wed to Fri 11:30–2:30
DINNER from 5pm daily
432 Richmond Street
at Carling • London
ALWAYS
a 3-course prix fixe
menu option
www.davidsbistro.ca
481 Richmond Street
519-432-4092
garlicsoflondon.com
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
Outdoor Farmers’ Market
Opening Day: Saturday, May 4, 8am–1pm
NEW this year! Thursday Night Markets,
starting May 9, 4pm–7pm
We grow it, raise it,
make it & bake it —
local produce, meat,
cheese and more! Join
us outside on the
Market Square. Both markets will run weekly
through December.
Latin American Festival
Saturday, June 1, 2pm–11pm
Lulu Magazine invites you to experience Latin
American art, with music, rhythms and flavours.
Enjoy traditional Latin food, and an exciting
Salsa and Bachata Contest. All are welcome!
Fiesta London Mexican Festival
Sunday, June 2, 11am–9pm
Fiesta London honours culture, tradition, and
family with the sounds and tastes of Mexico.
This is a celebration and a vigorous declaration
of community spirit. All are welcome!
London Multicultural Festival
Sunday, June 9, 11am–5pm
This colourful and family-friendly event is an
opportunity to enjoy our diversity. Visit the
ethnic displays and enjoy a wide range of
performers and ethnic foods. All are welcome!
MARKET HOURS
Mon–Fri 8am–7pm
Saturday 8am–6pm
Sunday 11am–4pm
Mezzanine & Restaurant Hours Differ
Stratford Symphony Orchestra. Sunday brunch
events start at 11:30 a.m.
Revival House is serving up amazing live
entertainment this season and offers limited preconcert
preferred seating. Enjoy dinner and the
show from your seat! 519-273-3424, revival.house
For 35 years Stratford Chefs School, a not-for-profit
career college focused on innovative, hands-on
training of high quality, aspiring chefs and culinary
entrepreneurs, has set the standard of excellence
for culinary training in Canada. In addition to its
renowned 32-week professional cookery program,
the School recently launched a unique 16-week
“Cook: Basic – Level 1 Diploma” program to run
June 3–September 20. Teaching the basics of
classical cookery and pastry coupled with theory
classes focused on cuisine and hospitality, this
program is perfect for those embarking on a second
career or interested in fast-tracking culinary goals.
stratfordchef.com/summer-program
Stratford Farmers’ Market, a year-round market
operating since 1855, offers fresh produce, crafts,
meat and cheese at Stratford Rotary Complex-
Agriplex, 353 McCarthy Rd, Saturdays 7 a.m.–12
noon. 519-271-5130. www.stratfordfairgrounds.com
Around Our Region
We are hearing great reports about Jordi Carr
and Natalie Crittenden’s recently opened Harris
Electric Eatery in the space previously occupied by
Little Red’s at 159 Queen Street East in St Marys.
harriselectriceatery.com
Steelhead Food Co. recently moved into its own
processing facility and will soon offer fresh locally
processed fish that are cleaned and cut at the Fish
and Seafood Market. Based in St. Thomas, Steelhead
offers a selection of premium quality fish and
seafood — fresh, frozen, and smoked. 5 Barrie Blvd,
St. Thomas, 226-237-3474, steelheadfoodco.ca
Alton Farms Estate Winery has extended their
hours, and is now open Wednesday through Sunday,
12 noon–6 p.m. The patio will be open when
weather permits, with pizza on offer by June 1.
altonfarmestatewinery.com
Dino and Carla Dassie of Fat Olive in Dorchester
went to Goodfella’s Pizza School in Staten Island,
New York, one of the world’s most comprehensive,
hands-on pizza schools. They were taught how
to make wood-fired pizzas and about owning
and operating a restaurant by the world pizza
champions, Be sure to make a reservation, Fat Olive
is a busy hot-spot. Closed Monday & Sunday, 519-
268-0001, fatolive.ca
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
Udderly Ridiculous, co-founded by Cheryl and
Greg Haskett in Oxford County, is a local artisanal
company introducing goat’s milk ice cream to
frozen dessert lovers across Ontario. Available
in six sophisticated flavours “With less naturally
occuring sugars and more vitamins and nutrients
such as calcium and protein, goat’s milk is a fabulous
alternative to cow’s milk ice cream,” says Cheryl
Haskett. “Goat’s milk allows us to sustainably
provide fresh-from-the-farm ingredients,” adds
Greg Haskett. “In addition to farming sustainably
and supporting local, ten cents from every tub
of our ice cream goes towards buying a goat for
a family in need through World Vision.” Udderly
Ridiculous will be available at select Sobey’s and
Foodland stores, with more distribution channels
coming online soon. udderlyridiculous.ca
St. Thomas’s Chef Terrance Tew (Chopped Canada
contestant) and Anna Tavares have teamed up to
offer The Tipsy Pig — “an authentic roadside BBQ
Catering Company.” Housed in a renovated barn,
they use local ingredients and traditional woodfired
BBQ techniques. “Elgin County has always
amazed us with an abundant amount of producers
and products that surround our local community,”
says Chef Terrance. “We showcase it the best way we
can, with what we affectionately refer to as refined
BBQ, combining traditional Southern smoking,
modern scratch cooking, and our dedication to
hospitality.” They look forward to servicing Elgin
County and surrounding areas. 519-319-7980
The Village Teapot is serving Mother’s Day Afternoon
Tea on Sunday, May 12, 1—3 p.m. Also on the event
schedule are Homestyle Sunday Roasts with all the
fixings. Mother’s Day features Roast Lamb, May 26th
is Roast Beef and Father’s Day, June 16th is Prime Rib.
Reservations required. Licensed with a selection of
local wines and beer. 13257 Ilderton Road, Ilderton,
519-298-TEAS (8327), thevillageteapot.ca
Join Ride the Bine for the new tour of Cheese Bites
and Beer Flights – a journey through the backroads
of Norfolk and Oxford County. Enjoy local tastes as
you sip small batch beer and sample an array of fine
cheeses – both artisanal and international. Amanda
and Susan meet guests at 12:30 p.m. in the Quality
Inn parking lot in Woodstock to begin an afternoon
adventure of fun.
Keith Muller, chair of Hospitality & Culinary Arts
at Conestoga College, told Eatdrink that a Centre
of Excellence for Cheesemaker Training is set to
launch in Ontario at Conestoga College’s Waterloo
campus, in collaboration with the Ontario Dairy
Council and French-language College La Cité. The
cheesemaker training program will be Ontario’s
where art is
Hey, Cupcake! a piece of cake
The ORIGINAL
LONDON CAKERY &
GOURMET CUPCAKE
BAKERY
ASK US Custom Bakery • Walk-In Orders Available
ABOUT OUR
“RANDOM
ACTS OF
SWEETNESS!”
CAMPAIGN
www.heycupcake.ca
275 Wharncliffe Rd. North
519-433-CAKE (2253)
STORE HOURS: Mon–Fri 11–7
Saturday 10–5 • Sunday 11–4
100% Local — from Our Farmers to Your Table
Hormone & Drug-Free
Ontario Beef, Pork, Bison, Lamb & Chicken
THE VILLAGE
MEAT SHOP
LOCAL - NATURAL - QUALITY
WE ARE YOUR LONDON OUTLET FOR
• Metzger Meat Products • Lena’s Lamb
• Blanbrook Bison Farm • Little Sisters Chicken
• Glengyle Farm Organics
The Market at Western Fair District: SAT 8–3; SUN 10–2
226-376-6328 • www.thevillagemeatshop.ca
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
a
movement
for
restaurants
who believe
local food
matters.
®
A Feast On® Certification means
you’re fighting the good food fight.
You’re supporting our farmers
and putting local food first.
To get certified, visit:
ONTARIOCULINARY.COM
@ONTARIOCULINARY #FEASTON
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
most extensive hands-on training program, and will
address a growing demand for skilled workers and
artisans in the dairy processing industry.
Sollgood Social Market kickoff, June 20 in
downtown Ingersoll from 6–9 p.m. Artisan
vendors, food and beverage trucks, food producers
and musicians all from within a 100 km radius.
sollgoodsocialmarket.com.
Your love of all things Italian begins at
We want your BUZZ!
Do you have culinary news or upcoming events
that you’d like us to share?
Every issue, Eatdrink reaches more than
50,000 readers across Southwestern Ontario
in print, and thousands more online.
Get in touch with us at editor@eatdrink.ca
Submission deadline for the next issue: June 5
Gift Cards
Available
ts,
tmas
Teams
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nas
Bring back “homemade”
again with Marshall’s Pasta!
@eatdrinkmag
Fresh Homemade Pasta & Sauces, Meatballs, Lasagnas, Salads & more!
Text MARSHALLS
to 70734 for a
$5.00 Off Coupon
to be used in-store!
Quality
Convenient
Meals
Bring Marshalls to the Cottage!
Store-made sausages & buns, Italian sandwiches, pasta
trays & pasta salads. All ready to heat up on the BBQ!
Convenient food everyone loves!
Ask about Blake’s BBQ
We can cater all
your family functions!
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64 | May/June 2019
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Books
Chop Suey Nation
The Legion Café and Other Stories from
Canada’s Chinese Restaurants
by Ann Hui
Review by DARIN COOK
Ann Hui was first exposed to Chinese
food outside of her home when her
school cafeteria served a Chinese
New Year meal. Even at six years
old she was confused as to why it did not
resemble her parents’ cooking. Years later, as
The Globe and Mail food reporter, Hui became
obsessed with this Canadianized Chinese
food and embarked on an 18-day road trip
from British Columbia to Newfoundland to
visit small-town Chinese restaurants. Chop
Suey Nation: The Legion Café and Other Stories
from Canada’s Chinese Restaurants (Douglas &
McIntyre, 2019) documents the journey which
led her to question “why so many of them
seemed to look and feel exactly the same”
and to seek out “a single answer that could
explain the spread of Chinese restaurants
across the country … a single starting point or
a single place responsible for the ubiquity and
uniformity of these tiny restaurants.”
Chop suey is translated into English as
“bits and pieces” and is prepared by throwing
together whatever scraps are
available to compose a dish.
This hodge-podge approach
allows recipes to be adaptable
to regional variations, such as
strips of cabbage being used in
chow mein in Newfoundland
to replace egg noodles that
were hard to come by in such
a remote location. Ginger beef
was a national mainstay on
Chinese menus, invented in the
Silver Inn Restaurant in Calgary
to combine the customers’
love of deep fried food with
some exotic flavours. Even
though this style of chop suey
cuisine is not
authentically
Chinese, and
was often called
“fake” Chinese
in Hui’s
household,
she found out
how undeniably
popular it
was from coast to coast.
Hui’s small-town criteria intentionally
put places with higher populations out of
reach, but she was compelled to try one local
restaurant inside a curling rink in Thunder Bay.
The second-generation owner was continuing
the legacy of her father — a popular chef who
had his own local TV station cooking show
after establishing Ling Lee’s Chinese Cuisine,
a dining hot spot, to entice people to the
curling rink. The restaurants Hui visited were
overwhelmingly run by families. Most owners
portrayed the exhausting yet satisfying lifestyle
of an all-consuming business
with long hours. Family homes
were often attached to the
restaurants, leaving little room
for division of family and
work; young children would
move between residence and
restaurant to wash dishes,
assemble takeout orders,
or do homework at vacant
tables. Many restaurants
were sold in their entirety —
recipes, buildings, equipment,
inventory, supplier contracts
Author Ann Hui
Photo by Amanda Palmer
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
May/June 2019 | 65
— as a source of income for
new families to make a go of
it in Canada. Even beyond
being family-oriented, the
homey feel extended to the
community, with restaurants
acting as social hubs of a
city. This was most evident
in Stony Plain, Alberta
where the popularity of the
owner of Bing Restaurant
No. 1 spurred him on to run
for and win the seat of city
mayor. More than a venue to serve food to the
community, Hui writes, “The restaurant, it had
turned out, had been the perfect launching pad
for his political career.”
The further Hui investigated the stories of
these restaurants, the more it moved beyond
the food to explore sweeping cultural issues.
Even more poignant than chop suey’s role in
Canadian culinary history are the surprise
elements of her story that she unearths as
she travels back in time through stories of
her father’s upbringing. She was able to piece
together portions of his childhood in China, so
TIME
FOR
A
Author Ann Hui, bottom left, in a childhood
family photo. Photo courtesy Ann Hui.
different from her own, and
how he became a chef after
immigrating to Canada at
the age of twenty-four to
join his own father. Not
only did she surprisingly
learn that her family had
taken the same path by
running its own Chinese
restaurant in Abbotsford,
BC before she was born,
but she was able to bridge
generational and cultural
issues that were not talked about when she was
growing up, to gain a deeper sense of belonging
to her heritage and an understanding of how
her family came to Canada. As Hui learns from
one of the restaurant owners, and what seems
to apply to most of them: “Even more so than
the food … Chinese restaurants are defined by
the families that run them.”
DARIN COOK is a Chatham-based freelance writer
who keeps himself well-read and well-fed by visiting the
bookstores and restaurants of London.
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66 | May/June 2019
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Recipes
Earth to Table Every Day
Cooking with Good Ingredients Through the Seasons
by Jeff Crump and Bettina Schormann
Review and Recipe Selections by TRACY TURLIN
We talk a lot these days about
farm-to-table, slow food, local
and seasonal eating. It’s easy
to forget, as we zip through
our days, 140 characters at a time, that this is
just the way the world used to work. People
grew fruits and vegetables, raised livestock,
produced small batches of cheese or beer
or sausages. They invested their time, their
labour and, ultimately, their reputations.
They made the best they could because they
took pride in knowing that people — real
people with names and faces they recognized
— would be buying it. You, as the consumer,
bought the best, when it was available, and
enjoyed it while it lasted. You didn’t fuss too
much with it because, why would you mess
with the best?
This is the philosophy behind Earth to
Table Every Day: Cooking with Good Ingredients
Through the Seasons (Jeff Crump & Bettina
Schormann; Penguin; 2018).
UWO alum Jeff Crump went on to attend
Stratford Chefs School, and trained at some of
the world’s best restaurants before returning
to Ontario. He worked as executive chef at
Ancaster Mill, along with good friend and awardwinning
pastry chef Bettina Schormann. Over
nearly two decades of working together, they’ve
developed a holistic approach to food. This has
guided them through the creation and evolution
of the Earth to Table: Bread Bar restaurants,
in Hamilton and Guelph. Based on the idea
that “good ingredients
matter,” the Bread Bar
menu is changed four
times a year to match
the seasons.
At Bread Bar they
are not just making
and selling great food;
they’ve become a vital
link in the ecosystem of
their community.
Many consider
it a gathering
place and
20 lucky
customers
were chosen
to test recipes
for Earth to
Table Every
Day.
Their
community-centric
approach means supporting local
businesses, craft breweries, and other producers
as much as possible. Having learned that
lack of access to land is a problem for aspiring
farmers, they and their partners at Pearle Hospitality
purchased farmland in 2010 and set
aside 50 acres to serve as an incubator farm.
Another six acres is used to produce exclusively
for Bread Bar, giving them access to the freshest
ingredients they choose to grow.
Flipping through this book I wasn’t sure if I
wanted to fire up the oven or make reservations,
but I’m confident you would find either to be a
delight. The recipes selected for this book either
come from the restaurant or are inspired by the
people who inspire the chefs.
Crab Cakes with Citrus Chutney are worth
the effort of finding the best fresh crabmeat
available. Poblano chilis add a mild, savoury
heat that compliments
the sweet seafood
without overpowering
it. The chutney
brightens the dish
and works well on just
about everything.
Jeff Crump and
Bettina Schormann
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
Piri Piri Baby Back Ribs satisfy my recent
obsession with apple cider and are perfect for
the upcoming grill season. These ribs are the
best of both worlds with a low, slow roast in
the oven for moisture and a quick char on the
grill for the smoky taste of summer. The Piri
Piri Dry Rub mixture has found a place in our
kitchen among our favourite spice mixes.
Sadly, I don’t have the room here to tell you
about the desserts, the pizza and the bread.
Oh, the bread. In short, whether you use this
book to plan your next dinner party or your
next trip to the restaurants that inspired it,
you win either way. Now, if you’ll excuse me, I
have to go read the bread chapter again.
Destination for the food lover
Featuring specialty foods,
kitchenwares, tablewares,
cooking classes and gift baskets.
TRACY TURLIN is a freelance writer and dog groomer
in London. Reach her at tracyturlin@gmail.com
Recipes excerpted from Earth to Table Every Day: Cooking
with Good Ingredients Through the Seasons by Jeff Crump
and Bettina Schormann. Copyright © 2018 Jeff Crump
and Bettina Schormann. Published by Penguin, an imprint
of Penguin Canada, a division of Penguin Random House
Canada Limited. Reproduced by arrangement with the
Publisher. All rights reserved.
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Crab Cakes with Citrus
Makes 12 crab cakes • Serves 4
These beautiful crab cakes are an absolute
splurge. Make them when you can get fresh
crabmeat from a fishmonger. Go ahead and
reward yourself and the ones you love. Be gentle
when shaping the cakes — better to have very
loose and tender crab cakes than well-formed
but dense ones. You will have leftover citrus
chutney, which can be used on buttered toast or
served with roast chicken.
CITRUS CHUTNEY (makes 2 cups/500 ml)
1 lemon, ends trimmed (or 2 Meyer lemons)
1 orange, ends trimmed
2 limes, ends trimmed
1 sweet red pepper, seeded and diced
2 cups (500 mL) lightly packed brown sugar
½ teaspoon (2 mL) red chili flakes
CRAB CAKES
1 large egg
1¼ lbs (565 g) fresh
crabmeat, picked over
¼ cup (60 mL) minced
poblano chili 2
tablespoons (30 mL)
minced fresh cilantro
1 clove garlic, minced
Grated zest of 1 lime
1 cup (250 mL) Basic
Mayonnaise (p. 246)
or store-bought
¼ cup (60 mL) Dijon
mustard
½ teaspoon (2 mL)
Lawry’s Seasoned
Salt or Old Bay
seasoning
¼ teaspoon (1 mL)
cayenne pepper
1 cup (250 mL) panko
crumbs
½ cup (125 mL) canola
oil, divided
1 To make the Citrus
Chutney, wash the citrus
well under warm running
water. Cut the lemon,
orange, and limes into
⅛-inch (3 mm) rounds.
Pluck out any seeds.
Place the citrus in a large
saucepan. Add the red
pepper, brown sugar, chili
flakes, and just enough
water to cover. Bring to
a boil over medium-high
heat. Reduce the heat
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
and simmer until the citrus peels are very soft, about 30
minutes. Add a little water if the mixture starts to dry out.
2 Cool to room temperature before serving. (The chutney
keeps in the refrigerator, in a resealable container, for
up to one month.)
3 To make the Crab Cakes, in a medium bowl, beat the
egg. Add the crab, poblano chili, cilantro, garlic, lime
zest, Basic Mayonnaise, mustard, Lawry’s Seasoned
Salt, and cayenne. Mix well to combine, but do not
overwork the mixture—try to keep it airy.
4 Divide the mixture into 12 equal portions. Shape them
into hamburger-like patties. Dredge them lightly in the
panko crumbs.
5 Heat ¼ cup (60 mL) of the canola oil in a non-stick skillet
over medium heat. Working in batches, fry the Crab
Cakes for 2 to 3 minutes on each side, or until golden
brown, using the remaining ¼ cup (60 mL) canola oil as
needed. Drain the Crab Cakes on a plate lined with paper
towel. Serve hot with the Citrus Chutney.
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
Piri Piri Baby Back Ribs
Serves 6 • Requires time for prep
Summertime to us means outdoor cooking,
barbecues, and good times. If we had to cook
just one thing in the summer, it would be these
simple, flavourful, and tender ribs. They are easy
to cook and are the perfect outdoor dinner with
friends. Apple cider brings both sweetness and
the moisture needed for the long, slow cooking.
PIRI PIRI DRY RUB (makes 1 cup/240 ml)
¼ cup (60 mL) hot paprika
8 teaspoons (40 mL) kosher salt
4 teaspoons (20 mL) dried oregano
4 teaspoons (20 mL) ground ginger
4 teaspoons (20 mL) ground cardamom
4 teaspoons (20 mL) garlic powder
4 teaspoons (20 mL) onion powder
2 teaspoons (10 mL) cayenne pepper
2 teaspoons (10 mL) sugar
Zest of 4 lemons,
minced
Zest of 4 limes, minced
1 In a small bowl, combine
the paprika, salt, oregano,
ginger, cardamom, garlic
powder, onion powder,
cayenne, sugar, lemon
zest, and lime zest. Stir
well. Store, covered and
refrigerated, for up to one
month.
4 racks baby back ribs
(about 8 lbs/3.5 kg)
1 cup (250 mL) Piri Piri
Dry Rub
1 cup (250 mL) dry
apple cider
2 Place the ribs meat
side down on a cutting
board and remove the
membrane from the back
of the rack by inserting a
small knife beneath it and
pulling it up so you can
grab it with a dish towel.
Peel off the membrane
and discard.
3 In a large bowl, combine
the ribs and the Piri Piri
Dry Rub. Using your
hands, cover the meat
entirely in the rub.
Shake off excess. Wrap
ribs in plastic wrap and
refrigerate for at least 3
hours or overnight.
May/June 2019 | 69
4 Preheat the oven to 325°F (160°C). Place the ribs in a
large Dutch oven — it’s okay if they overlap—and add
the apple cider. Cover tightly and bake for 4 hours, or
until the meat is fork-tender. Uncover and let cool. (At
this point you can wrap the ribs in plastic wrap and
refrigerate for up to 1 week or freeze in a resealable
plastic bag for up to 1 month.)
5 To serve, preheat a grill to medium-high. Grill the
ribs for 5 minutes per side, until slightly charred. You
can serve these ribs dry,
by sprinkling with a little
more Piri Piri Dry Rub, or
wet with your favourite
barbecue sauce.
70 | May/June 2019
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
The Lighter Side
Skål!
By KYM WOLFE
Apparently Swedes have a “bittersweet
relationship with alcohol.” Who
knew? Not me, until I visited the
Spritmuseum in Stockholm where I
learned ...
Historically liquor meant strength and
manliness. Vodka kept soldiers healthy and
brave. Serious drinking on May 1st kicked
off the growing season, and farmers
sprinkled vodka over the fields to
ensure fertility and a good harvest.
Whenever guild members
gathered they would raise a toast
to Christ, the Virgin Mary, and
a never-ending list of saints.
The rules were simple: drink the
same amount as everyone else and
behave. If you dared to fall down,
throw up or pass out you would be fined.
For an unaccompanied woman to drink in
public was unthinkable. The only exception
seemed to be for the “oarsmadames” who
taxied people around Stockholm in rowboats
(the city is made up of 14 islands). In one
painting, two oarsmadames stand in their
small boats and raise a toast, a large uncorked
bottle on the dock between them. Perhaps
there was an understanding that they needed
the sustenance to fuel their rowing.
Vodka was considered as nourishing as meat
and bread — even young children had their
daily tipple. During times of famine mothers
moaned that their poor malnourished
children had to make do with water in their
porridge. Help was on the way …
Countess Eva de la Gardie was the first
woman elected to the Swedish Royal Academy
of Sciences in 1748. Her claim to fame?
Transforming potatoes into vodka. Thanks to
Eva, grains could be used to feed the starving
masses instead of being turned into vodka …
there were plenty of potatoes for that!
Swedes drank copious amounts of alcoholic
punsch during the 19th century, raising their
glasses in a show of national pride referred
to as “Punsch Patriotism.” Sugar was a status
symbol, and punsch was packed with sugar …
giving rise to another common phenomenon:
“Punsch Belly”.
By the late 19th century, thanks to a vocal
temperance movement, alcohol education
became a mandatory school subject.
Terrifying images, designed to scare children
from even trying alcohol, warned: “Danger
might be lurking in the very first glass!”
Picture fat-choked hearts and livers, and
booze-ravaged faces. A “vodka dragon” —
shaped like a still with vodka pouring
out of it — was surrounded by
paths leading to prison, the
madhouse and the poorhouse.
“Good citizens” were issued
an alcohol ration book. Married
women, substance abusers
and the poor need not apply.
One book per household, to the
man of the house. Not having
one meant you were not a trusted
citizen. Shameful!
Today the Swedes have developed a taste
for the bubbly — Sweden is now the world’s
tenth largest Champagne market. One exhibit
dispelled a myth that refuses to die: that the
champagne coupe was designed to match
the shape of Marie-Antionette’s breasts. She
“actually did have china cups that were clearly
breast-shaped, but they were intended for
goat’s milk, and were not modelled after the
queen’s own womanly charms.”
Vodka remains the spirit of choice
for traditional holidays, though, with
sales peaking at Christmas, Easter and
Midsummer. Drink vodka, eat pickled
herring, crayfish and surströmming
(fermented herring), and sing schnaps songs.
And of course propose a toast.
For tips on how to do that properly, we
turned to Swedish actor Max von Sydow at
the “Skål School with Max” exhibit. Raise
your glass. Look the person you are toasting
in the eye — one eyebrow lowered, slight
smirk. Say “Skål”! Give a slight nod. Down the
hatch! Another direct and serious look in the
eye, with furrowed brow. Put your glass down.
Elegant and effective.
Thanks Max, and skål!
KYM WOOLF is a freelance writer based in London.
LONDON’S
Local Flavour
VOLUME 7
Restaurants • Specialty Shops & Services
Craft Beer & Wine • Farmers’ Markets
Do You Have Your Copy Yet?
NEW!
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Recommended
Culinary
Neighbours
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