ENJOY YOUR FLIGHT / 5
“We decided to take you
on a journey across Italy’s
ancient capital city”
May 2019 edition 157 kenya-airways.com
Kenya Airways’ World
• Winner Africa’s Leading Airline:
• Winner Africa’s Leading Airline,
Business Class: 2013, 2014, 2015,
2016, 2017, 2018
• Winner Africa’s Leading Airline,
Economy Class: 2011, 2018
Route expansion is a key part of our
growth plan, so we’re pleased that our
recent codeshare agreements with Italy’s
Alitalia, and Delta Air Lines in the US,
are increasing our global footprint. With
the Alitalia agreement, we’re able to offer
you more travel options and benefits in
Europe (16 Italian domestic destinations).
As we’re launching our newest routes to
Rome and Geneva on the 12th of June,
this couldn’t have come at a better time.
The agreement with Delta means that
Kenya Airways’ passengers can enjoy
seamless travel in the US and Canada
using our joint network in 11 US and 4
Canadian cities. I’m also happy to announce
that we’ll increase the frequency
of our flights between Nairobi and New
York to seven flights a week during the
summer months (high season) in the US.
Several other routes will also see increased
In preparation for the launch of our
Nairobi-Rome route, we decided to take
you on a journey across Italy’s ancient
capital city with our travel story this
month. You’ll discover the finest eateries,
the hippest districts and the Eternal City’s
abundance of ancient treasures. Starting
in the historical centre, you’ll see the Trevi
Fountain, which was made famous by the
1960 film, La Dolce Vita. After crossing
the Ponte Sisto bridge, you’ll experience
the Trastevere quarter, and after an ice
cream or two, you’ll arrive at the Vatican.
Before we launch our new route to Rome,
however, we have another major event to
celebrate: Mother’s Day. And with many
people around the world giving their
mums chocolates for Mother’s Day,
which takes place this month, we took the
opportunity to investigate the chocolate
industry. Our business story takes an
in-depth look at the production of this
popular delicacy, from the harvesting of
cocoa beans to the manufacture of the
chocolate itself. Importantly, we explore
fair trade, explaining what it is, how it
works and why it’s important to choose
fair trade chocolate.
Another highlight this month is our
people story, which looks at five African
comedians who are making people laugh
worldwide. Some of them are so successful
that they have their own TV shows or
have performed at venues that are usually
reserved for famous bands. Read these
comedians’ fascinating stories in these
Thank you for choosing Kenya Airways,
I wish you an enjoyable flight.
Group Managing Director and CEO
Image: Jeroen van Loon
CONTENTS / 7
Travel & Nature
10 Cherry on Top
Mount Lico in Mozambique
18 Travel Essentials
Packing for Rome
22 Gold Star
Ghana’s bit of everything
45 Geneva’s Gems
52 La Dolce Vita
Roaming through Rome
Arts & Culture
Kenya & the world
34 Comic Icons
Africa’s best comedians
44 Book Review
No Hard Feelings
58 Whale of a Time
Kenya’s Twin Migration
Publisher Kenya Airways | Head of Communications and Corporate Affairs Dennis Kashero Corporate Communications Executive Mercy Agnes Mwamba Advertising MediaEdge
Interactive Ltd. | Managing Director Esther Ngomeli Head of Media Rose Kagori Concept, Content & Production Hearst Create | Hearst Netherlands CEO Luc van Os Managing Editor Irene
Bauer Senior Designer Gaby Walther Subeditor Ben Clark Client Partner Inger Waijers Proofreader Julia Gorodecky Photo Editor Monique Kolmeijer Design Concept Sabine Verschueren
Production Manager Hans Koedijker Contributors Yvette Bax, Jackson Biko, Matteo Colombo, Emma van Egmond, Mark Eveleigh, Nicole Franzen, Sarah Haaij, Ken Kagicha, Joseph Maina,
Barbara Groen, Annemarie Hoeve, Annette Lavrijsen, Mary Quincy, Gijsje Ribbens, Jude Tundo, Eva de Vries, Chantal van Wessel/Vizualism, Hanna Wieslander, Ingrid K. Williams, Susan
Wright, Denise Zwijnen Lithography Ready4Print Printer Walstead CE, Kraków, Poland
8 / CONTENTS
Inflight entertainment guide
75 Safari Njema
News & service
81 Flying Blue News
83 SkyTeam News
84 Route Maps
90 Get Comfortable
32 Aircraft Facts
48 Hot Chocolate
Africa’s chocolate business
At a glance
40 Air Support
Africa’s airspace technology
Contact details Kenya Airways Marketing & Corporate Communications, Nairobi, Kenya, +254 20 642 2000, firstname.lastname@example.org Website kenya-airways.com, msafiri-magazine.com
Facebook Kenya Airways Twitter @kenyaAirways Instagram @officialkenyaairways Mediaedge Interactive Ltd. Nairobi, Kenya, +254 20 420 5000 / +254 723 140187 / +254 734 271488,
email@example.comHearst Magazines Netherlands BV, Spaklerweg 52, 1114 AE Amsterdam, the Netherlands +31 20 7943500, Website hearstcreate.nl.
No part of the contents may be reproduced without prior written permission. While every care is taken to ensure accuracy in preparing the magazine, the publisher and Kenya Airways assume
no responsibility for mistakes and effects arising therefrom. The publisher has made every effort to arrange copyright in according with existing legislation. Msafiri is available on all KQ flights
and at select hotels and businesses in Nairobi. A digital copy is available for free at kenya-airways.com.
CRE A T E
10 / NATURE / Views
NATURE / 11
In 2012, a conservation
scientist discovered the
on top of a mountain
in Mozambique. The
gauntlet had been laid
for an intrepid research
text Ben Clark
SHEER ROCK walls of up to 700
metres had kept the rainforest adorning
Mount Lico – an inselberg – seemingly
out of humanity’s reach. But, six years
after he had found it using Google Earth,
Dr Julian Bayliss led a team of more than
20 fearless researchers on an expedition
to discover Mount Lico’s secret garden.
While looking at satellite images,
Bayliss saw that, unlike the heavily
farmed area around it, the rainforest on
top of the inselberg looked undisturbed.
And that’s how the researchers found it
when they finally arrived having scaled
Mount Lico with rudimentary climbing
equipment: the only evidence of human
disturbance was a collection of ceremonial
pots upturned near a water source.
According to Bayliss, the locals had no
record of anyone visiting the top of
Mount Lico. It remains a mystery how
the man-made pots got there.
As they studied the rainforest’s fauna,
the team discovered a new species of
butterfly, frog and crab; and more new
species are expected as the scientists await
the detailed results of their research.
Kenya Airways flies four times a week to
Maputo International Airport from Nairobi’s
Jomo Kenyatta International Airport.
Julian Bayliss, firstname.lastname@example.org
There are 95 UNESCO
properties in Africa.
The Great Pyramid of
Giza is one of the most
HABARI / 13
The body can lose up to 1.5 litres
of water during a 3-hour flight.
Ivorian photographer and visual
artist, Joana Choumali, is known
for her conceptual portraits,
documentaries and mixed-media
work. This fascinating image is
just one example of her unique
use of colour and texture. Her
work allows her to expand her
conceptions of the world by
exploring identity and challenging
her own assumptions.
~ Instagram: @joana_choumali
14 / HABARI
HABARI / 15
Pilots and copilots are
required to eat different
meals in case of food
Madagascar is the fourth-largest
island on Earth.
The average outside
a flight is -54˚C.
Liberia was established on
land acquired for freed US
slaves in the 1820s.
Running with Lions
Maybe you’re in the city for a
while and you want to find a
place to walk or run away
from pavements and hooting
vehicles. Here you’ll find running
trails, cycling trails and
dog-on-a-leash trails. The
trails run under canopies of
indigenous trees, past caves
and waterfalls. There are hundreds
of species of birds and a
number of mammals. There is
silence except for the sound of
runners’ feet, a bicycle zipping
past or someone giggling as
their dog pulls them on a
leash. And there is the River
Cafe, if you want rest after.
For the longest time, there wasn’t much happening in this small
complex by the State House. Now it’s a hole-in-the-wall café
with great food. They feature local dishes, done with fresh ingredients,
that are twisted playfully to match the personality of the
café itself. The owners are young millennials whose enthusiasm
to create a brand that matches their temperament comes
through. You’ll find lots of live music here on Sundays. Alcohol
is also served.
Nairobi Snake Park
This snake park was opened as a centre for snake study before
it was transformed into a shelter for rescued reptiles and amphibians.
It’s also a place for researchers, conservationalists
and educators. Here you’ll find Egyptian cobra, puff adders,
Gaboon vipers, giant snails, baboon spiders, crayfish, freshwater
prawns, amphibians, reptiles, birds and mammals.
Beer and food
This place calls itself “a
feast for the five senses”
and it’s appropriate. Part
of the Big Five Breweries,
the Brew Bistro & Lounge,
in Piedmont Plaza (Ngong
Road), provides fine dining
at its finest in a striking
setting. Here you can also
taste the excellent range
of craft beer, which the
company makes locally.
– Lupita Nyong’o –
Nairobi page text: Jackson Biko
Habari text: Eva de Vries
The Nest Collective is a
art group for film,
music, fashion, visual arts
and literature. Sunny
Dolat is the cofounder.
What message do you want to
Our work always reflects a
root question, a “what if?” or
a “why does?”, that reimagines
our pasts, presents and
futures, but also our African
identity and the intersections
of that with feminism, race
The Nest Collective has created
many different things. What are
you most proud of?
We’re proud of all our babies
for different reasons. Each of
them has blessed us, taught us
and challenged us to grow and
learn in different technical
and intellectual ways, while
opening up new audiences,
conversations and even
But is there one product that
I have a soft spot for our
fashion book, Not African
Enough, which explores
evolving aesthetics and
thinking in Kenyan fashion.
What is your advice for aspiring
Be kind to yourself!
~ @sunnydolat, thisisthenest.com
Lani Adeoye, the lady behind the brand,
Studio-Lani, is a strong believer in the
power of design to solve problems and
empower communities. Blurring the lines
between art and design, she creates
unique functional sculptures that range
from lamps to sidetables.
Dancing in The Desert
Looking for something out of the ordinary?
Head north and join this festival on the shores
of breathtaking Lake Turkana. Visitors can
expect amazing performances and cultural
traditions from 14 ethnic communities,
featuring costumes, art, dance and music.
~ 28-30 June, magicalkenya.com
This thrilling marathon route takes runners
through the South African habitats of the Big Five:
elephants, rhinos, buffalo, lions and leopards. There
are no fences along the way, so let’s just say that
some runners might end up beating their personal
~ 22 June, big-five-marathon.com
This year’s Dakar Fashion
Week – the brainchild of
Senegalese designer Adama
N’diaye – will once again host
around 30 talented African
designers from several countries,
such as Mozambique,
Mali and Nigeria. The event
aims to build upon the
growing “wear African”
~ 20-24 June,
Albatros Adventure Marathons
16 / HABARI
HABARI / 17
Nigeria’s nickname is the
Giant of Africa due to its size
and the diversity of its people.
South Africa is home to the longest
continuous wine route in the world, which
stretches from the Cape Winelands to
the Klein Karoo.
In Kenya, hunting any protected
animal is a crime.
Arts & Culture
The world’s largest frog, the
goliath frog, lives in Cameroon
and Equatorial Guinea, and can
grow up to 32 cm in length.
Located on Kenya’s serene Watamu Beach and built high among
the treetops, the Watamu Treehouse is an architectural delight.
Guests can expect 360-degree views over the Kenyan coastline
and surrounding lush forests. This beautiful hotel offers relaxing
activities, such as spa treatments, massages and yoga classes.
Those looking for adventure can explore the area by kayak, paddle
board or dhow. Oh, and the food is amazing!
The winner of this year’s design contest, organised by Design
Indaba, is the “Interdependence Bench II”: a love seat with a
twist, literally. The playful furniture piece, by design duo Phillip
Hollander and Stephen Wilson, can now proudly call itself
the most beautiful object in South Africa.
Three weeks ago, an acquaintance sent me a WhatsApp
message telling me that she “made the mistake” of taking an
old issue of Msafiri home. Subsequently, her two daughters
(aged 10 and 8) read one of my columns. They loved it so
much that they begged her to procure more magazines. So, as
a dutiful mother, she has been collecting back issues of Msafiri
and taking them home to her daughters; and they devour
them like ravenous literary critics before screaming, “More!
More! We want more Biko!” (A bit of an exaggeration here on
my part.) Then my acquaintance made another “mistake”: she
told them that she knew me, so they started asking her all
manner of questions about me. They enquired as to whether
I’m as powerful in person as I sound on paper, if I have a
“Have they not studied
as hard as they can
and not worn their
nighties inside out?”
proper beard, and if (indeed) I can make fire by rubbing two
sticks together; you know, the usual questions children ask.
They love words and they love to read, and she hopes that one
day they will say that a small column in an inflight magazine
set them on the path to becoming celebrated authors.
Because mothers can be manipulative and crafty, she now
uses me as a disciplinary tool. If they don’t make their beds,
she tells them, “Imagine what would happen if Biko walked in
here unexpectedly and found your beds untidy like this.” So
they make their beds. Or, if they don’t want to wrap up warmly
before leaving the house, she asks them, “When your nose
starts running and Biko comes visiting, will you converse with
a messy nose?” So they wear warm clothes. I love it. It’s great
for my ego. One day they asked if I might one day write about
them in the magazine for “important people who fly in the
aircraft to read”? And she said that if they behave – and make
their beds, clear the table and do their homework – she would
ask me. They also asked if they would become famous if I
wrote about them. I wonder. I hope so.
What good is an airline magazine if it can’t make a couple
of dutiful girls famous? What’s the point of printing it if these
girls can’t keep this copy forever, and one day remember how
it felt to have their names read at 40,000 feet? What kind of
humans would we be if we denied these girls this opportunity?
Have they not made their beds, eaten their vegetables and
brushed their teeth? Have they not studied as hard as they can
and not worn their nighties inside out? Have they not been
good girls? Have they not done everything their mum asked of
them and more? They have. They absolutely have.
So, Neema Mosiara and Nina Midega: if you’re reading
this know that everybody in the aircraft has read about you.
You made them smile. You warmed their hearts. You made
them think of their children back home and the children they
have in their hearts. And you know what smiles do? Smiles
make the world a better place. I hope that you’re smiling as
you read this.
Illustration: Hannah Wieslander
Located in Kigali, Rwanda, the
Land of a Thousand Hills, this
craft distillery produces five
different triple-distilled spirits.
It also has a nice restaurant.
Mountain bike race
Riders participating in this
unique, three-day mountain
bike race compete in teams
of two and use GPS devices
to navigate over 250 km of
The course takes the participants
through rolling hills,
ancient forests and alongside
crystal-clear streams, all the
way to the finish line at the
mighty Zambezi River.
This year’s race will be held
from 31 May to 2 June.
The Brighter The Better
Stemming from her love for textiles, Cape Town-based founder
Tracy Rushmere wanted to create traditional African fabrics
with a more urban feel. The result is a bold, exuberant collection
of fabrics and products, such as caps and cushions with
catchy names, including “Jacki so Blue” and “Hooray for The
18 / TRAVEL / Essentials
SPQR, which is an acronym of “The
Senate and People of Rome”, is
inscribed on manhole covers all
Hardcover book Rome: Portrait of a City
by Giovanni Fanelli. Taschen, US$50.
Packing for Rome
(fits one packet
of Barilla Penne
Rome has two football teams that
play in Serie A, ltaly’s top division.
They are Roma and Lazio.
crepe dress, to
Linen shirt. Emporio
Sunglasses for an
OneStep 2, for
deodorant stick that
smells citrusy and
fresh 75ml. Acqua di
Mini hairbrush for
Less is More, US$10.
Stroll through Rome in style with
these Carina Canvas Wedge
Espadrilles. Castañer, US$141.
Selection: Gijsje Ribbens
The Ivory Trade
is Killing Kenya’s
Three years ago, a huge ivory stockpile
was set ablaze in Kenya. This fire, which
smouldered for days, was a clear indication
of Kenya’s stance on the ivory trade. Sadly,
this illegal business is still thriving, and it’s
decimating the elephant population.
Source: Kenya Wildlife Service; The East African Wild Life Society; Kevin Papai
he killing of elephants to
feed the illegal ivory trade
is out of control in Africa:
around 30,000 elephants
are poached each year from
the remaining continental
population of 400,000. If no
interventions are made, elephants could
be extinct in about a decade.
“Every day, we’re losing a little bit of our
heritage and a little bit of ourselves,”
says Kenya’s Cabinet Secretary for Tourism
& Wildlife Najib Balala. “We cannot
emphasize enough the urgency of now.
Yesterday was too late to abolish the
ivory trade. We need to stop it now.”
A majority of the countries with African
elephant populations all agree that the
species is in serious danger. More importantly,
they agree that, for this majestic
animal to be preserved, all existing legal
ivory markets – principally in Europe and
Japan – need to be shut down.
The math is simple: existing markets
thousands of miles away from these
gentle giants’ natural habitats directly
encourage elephant poaching.
“We must rise to the higher calling of
becoming the generation that stood firm
in the face of powerful market forces to
say no to the ivory trade,” says Balala.
Data shows that the war to protect the
globe’s endangered species can be won.
The only measure that has worked to
curb poaching and ivory trafficking was
listing all African elephants in the UN’s
Convention on International Trade in
Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and
Flora (CITES) Appendix I in 1989. This
measure was, however, later relaxed
with CITES Appendix II to allow one–off
sales of ivory, which led to a significant
increase in elephant poaching. Yet, there
seems to be little urgency from some
countries that have the power to make
“To assume – as many EU member
states do – that there’s no link between
domestic ivory markets in Europe and
Asia and...the killing of elephants in Africa
is a flawed basis on which to develop EU
conservation policy,” says Balala.
The Cabinet Secretary insists that the
People’s Republic of China and a number
of other countries - with significant legal
markets - have realised that there is a
clear link between their domestic ivory
markets, illegal trade and poaching, and
have closed them down.
“We call on the EU and Japan to follow
suit,” said Balala. “Allowing the sale of
ivory reinforces its social acceptability
and makes it a desirable product to
own or invest in; only to stimulate transnational
On 22 May this year, all eyes will be on
‘Every day, we’re
losing a little bit
of our heritage
and a little bit of
Colombo, Sri Lanka, for the 18th meeting
of the UN’s Conference of the Parties
(CoP18) to make important decisions
to regulate the international trade in
As a cradle for mankind, a hotbed for
wildlife and a champion for conversation,
Kenya will also be present in
Colombo to once again present her
proposals to the world. And on that
day, the government and the people of
Kenya will call upon the international
community to support the adoption of
CoP18, and stand up to be counted as
the generation that secured the future
of the African elephant, and reversed
its imminent extinction.
Kenya wants all elephants in Africa to
be listed in CITES Appendix I, so they’re
given the strictest protection. Herds of
elephants in Botswana, Namibia, South
Africa and Zimbabwe are currently listed
in CITES Appendix II.
22 / TRAVEL / Ghana
TRAVEL / 23
canoes in the
harbour. Right page:
GHANA HAS IT ALL: exciting cities,
pristine rainforests, classic African
savannah, expansive wetlands and some of
the world’s most beautiful beaches.
text Mark Eveleigh
24 / TRAVEL / Ghana
TRAVEL / 25
IN DEFIANCE of “municipal orders”, the little boy sat
astride the great gun on the battlements of Elmina Castle. His
knees were scratched from climbing trees, which is the main
occupation of many children here. The Ghanaian security
guard – apparently the entire “defence force” of this historic
fort – smiled benignly as the boy’s father snapped a photo for
the family album. Clearly, the municipal orders were not rigorously
Below the battlements, fishing boats jostled steadily in
Elmina harbour. Furled sails, rippling flags and strings of
laundry hung like bunting from the rigging, giving the fleet
the appearance of a carnival. As I arrived on the battlements,
the sun on my shoulders and the boy’s laughter gave me a
sense of calm as I thought about the history of this place. The
Portuguese built Elmina Castle in 1482, and it’s said to be the
biggest and oldest former slave fort in tropical Africa.
My father and I had driven out of Accra, Ghana’s vibrant
and exciting capital, the previous day in an expedition-prepared
Land Cruiser. It was the start of a journey that would take us
to almost every corner of the country. As volunteers with the
organisation, MAPA (Mapping Africa’s Protected Areas)
Project, our assignment was to explore every trail in the country’s
protected reserves and map them accurately with GPS. It
was typical that Digya National Park, the country’s secondbiggest
reserve, would be our first mapping challenge since it
was almost inaccessible to our Land Cruiser. The only way to
get to Digya (pronounced “dee-juh”), which is on the western
shore of Lake Volta, turned out to be in a wobbly dugout
canoe. “‘Dee-juh’ think this would be easy?” my father joked.
It was clearly easy to get off the beaten track in Ghana, so I
asked the boatman if many tourists came this way. “Plenty,”
he said. “In fact, not even a month has passed yet since the
With the help of some friendly locals, we cleared a campsite
with “cutlasses” (as machetes are called here) and spent several
days mapping trails on foot while we enjoyed sightings of some
of Digya’s estimated 236 bird species. Digya is famous for being
the habitat of six primate species, as well as manatees and clawless
“Many people claim that hippos are the most dangerous
animals in Africa,” said our guide Joshua, from Wechiau
Community Hippo Sanctuary, as he paddled his canoe
cautiously through swirling dawn mist on the Black Volta
River. While the eastern bank is Ghanaian, the western bank
belongs to Côte d’Ivoire, with the official boundary running
midstream, turning the 60 or so hippos in this part of the river
into dual citizens. Joshua kept close to his native Ghanaian >
“I swear you could sniff out a surfboard from 50 km
away,” said my father when we finally parked in front
of a shack bearing the legend, Black Star Surf Shop”
Surfing in Ghana
In 1966, Ghana’s beaches became
famous around the world when The
Endless Summer (the most famous
surf film of all time) showed two
Californian surfers cruising perfect
waves that had never been surfed
before. After that, Ghana slipped
almost completely off the world’s
surfing radar. Recently, however,
interest is reviving, and there are
those who believe that Ghana has
the potential to become the next
Ghana has 539 km of coastline,
including some of the most
spectacular beaches on the planet.
The now legendary The Endless
Summer footage showed local
fishing boats surfing towards the
beach, and long chains of smiling
fishermen hauling nets. The nets,
the boats and, more importantly,
the smiles are still to be found
along the Ghanaian coast.
from top): Two adult
elephant bulls in
Mole National Park; A
surfer catches a wave;
Women sitting in the
Right page: Boats on
the beach in Accra (top);
Central Post Office
in downtown Accra
(bottom left); A woman
walking on Anomabo
Beach (bottom right) .
Robert Harding, Getty Images, ANP Photo
26 / TRAVEL / Ghana
TRAVEL / 27
“Below the battlements,
fishing boats jostled steadily
in Elmina harbour”
28 / TRAVEL / Ghana
TRAVEL / 29
Left page: Canopy walkway
in Kakum National Park
(top); Kwame Nkrumah
Memorial Park &
Mausoleum in Accra (bottom
left); A child writing on the
blackboard in a primary
school (bottom right).
Right: Black Star
Gate in Accra.
“My father and I had driven out of Accra,
Ghana’s vibrant and exciting capital, the previous
day in an expedition-prepared Land Cruiser”
Robert Harding, Getty Images
shore while we eased our way past the heavy beasts. “Like
most wildlife, though, I’ve found that they’re okay as long as
you respect them,” he whispered.
The people here treat their wildlife with infinite respect.
For example. when their large population of monkeys (known
locally as mona) die, they’re buried in marked graves in a
special cemetery. These rare Lowe’s monkeys are found only
in Western Ghana and in parts of neighbouring Côte d’Ivoire,
and Boabeng Fiema Monkey Sanctuary is certainly the best
place on the planet to see them up-close.
After mapping the wetlands, we drove north towards the
desert through towns with names that seemed to clang like
camel bells, such as Bolgatanga, Kwun Chorkor and Hellembelle.
Minarets rose high above pot-bellied baobab trees, the
air was filled with the gold-flecked harmattan breeze of the
Sahara, and the desert landscapes along the Burkina Faso
border seemed a world away from the lush tropical forests
we’d explored in the south.
Larabanga village is the site of the oldest mosque in
Ghana, and the statuesque building (thought to date back
to 1421), which fuses the Sudanic and Sahelian architectural
styles, is a popular tourist site these days. Larabanga is also
home to what’s called the Mystic Stone. Legend has it that
when the British colonials were building the road, this boulder
resolutely refused to be moved out of the way; each morning
the engineers would return to work to find that the boulder
was back in the centre of the road. Finally, they decided to let
it stay and simply steered the road around it.
DISCOVERING A MOLE
The moral to the story is this: whatever you do, don’t let
anything stop you from getting to Mole National Park. As
Ghana’s biggest national park, it’s more than three times the
size of the Maasai Mara National Reserve, yet – at about
US$8 per person admission – it’s likely to be the most affordable
safari you’ll ever experience. Mole boasts 93 mammal and
344 bird species. Lions, leopards and hyenas are rarely seen,
but there’s a population of about 800 elephants, along with
hippos, buffalo and a whole range of antelope, including kob,
waterbuck, hartebeest, oribi and bushbuck. We had timed our
journey to be in Mole for a Christmas dinner of guinea fowl
curry and the bottle of port (a tradition in our family) that I’d
hidden – without my father’s knowledge – in the back of the
Walking through the garden at Mole Motel on Christmas
Day, I stopped to watch the big rainbow lizards – that looked >
Accra, with its burgeoning arts and fashion scene,
is well known for its fabrics and boutiques. It’s
also an exciting city that manages to combine the
feel of a business powerhouse with a fun coastal
Mole National Park is the country’s national
treasure, and it’s possibly the best-value safari
destination on the planet.
Kumasi, the hospitable and vibrant northern city,
is said to be home to the biggest market in West
Elmina Castle, the 15th-century slave fort, is
located near the spot where Europeans and
Sub-Saharan Africans first came into contact.
Kakum National Park boasts a canopy walkway
that stretches over 300 m and rises about 40 m
over the forest floor. These seven suspended cablebridges
offer a unique insight into the life of West
Africa’s jungle canopies.
30 / TRAVEL / Ghana
TRAVEL / 31
mosque (top); Street
scene near Makola
Market (bottom right);
Pupil from a primary
school in a village near
Accra (bottom left).
A local in a
wooden canoe on
the Volta River.
“Hello ‘obruni’ (white man) was a phrase that
sang out all around us when we entered the tangled
alleyways around Kumasi Central Market”
Where to sleep
Mole Motel is not the chicest accommodation
you’ll ever stay in, but it has a certain retro
charm and offers what must be one of
Africa’s most-affordable safari experiences.
Zaina Lodge is nestled in the heart of Mole
Forest and with wonderfully luxurious and
spacious safari-style tents (more like canvas
suites), it bills itself as West Africa’s first luxury
safari lodge. zainalodge-ghana.com
Kempinski Hotel Gold Coast City Accra is
possibly Accra’s most salubrious address and
this majestic luxury hotel is perfectly located
for either the business centre or the beach.
Anomabo Beach Resort is a quirky and colourful
beach hangout in a location that combines
history (the 18th-century Fort William) with a
vibrant and exciting beach vibe. anomabo.com
Lou Moon Lodge is a uniquely beautiful
boutique beach resort on what must be one
of the prettiest stretches of coastline in Africa.
like living jewels with their red heads and blue backs – and I
was transported back to my childhood. Almost 40 years earlier,
my family had lived in Ghana after my father – an engineer –
was transferred from the UK and had fallen in love with the
country. Although I’d spent my first months in England, Ghana
had been my first home. Back then, we’d lived in Kumasi where,
shortly after our arrival, my father had been one of the few
foreigners invited to the “enstoolment” (coronation) of the new
Asantehene (Ashanti king). The Ashanti is a tribe of fearless
warriors that fought four separate resistance wars against the
British in the 19 th century. Kumasi Fort – the site of a siege
during the so-called Anglo-Ashanti Wars when 29 Britons were
trapped there – is now the Kumasi Fort and Military Museum.
Together with the explanations given by enthusiastic guides, it’s
a fascinating place to learn more about the history of what
became the first Sub-Saharan country to win independence
from colonial rule (in 1957).
Ghanaian people are famous for being some of the
friendliest in Africa, and Kumasi has a particular reputation
for hospitality. “Hello obruni” (white man) was a phrase that
sang out all around us when we entered the tangled alleyways
around Kumasi Central Market, which has about 45,000 stalls
and is said to be the biggest market in West Africa. Here, you
can buy anything from spices and carvings to colourful kente
fabric. There’s even a section that specialises in gold and diamonds.
I’m not a big shopper, but I could happily have spent
days exploring this kaleidoscope of culture and commerce.
We were coming to the end of our month in Ghana, however,
and we wanted to leave time for some relaxation at the coast.
“I swear you could sniff out a surfboard from 50 km
away,” said my father when we finally parked in front of a
shack bearing the legend, Black Star Surf Shop, in a little
village called Busua. A sunset session “shooting the curl” on
balmy West African waves was the perfect finale to a month
in Ghana, and it left me with the feeling that, whatever happens,
I was sure to return here again one day.
Plan your trip
Kenya Airways operates direct
flights from Nairobi to Kotoka
International Airport in Accra.
Robert Harding, Getty Images, Alamy
32 / TRAVEL / Facts
In a 15-minute taxi between the
gate and the runway, a Boeing
747 can burn about a tonne
Most airports do not have a specific
speed limit on the taxiways. However, for
safety reasons, most operators have a
general limit of 37-56 km/h.
The taxiway network
connects all the aircraft
facilities at an airport,
such as the runway, the
hangar, the apron and the
“Once the aircraft has been refuelled and the
catering and passengers are on board, it leaves
the ‘apron’ (parking gate) and heads towards
the runway: the pavement strip where it will
gain speed and take off,” says Captain Jude
Tundo. “The paths it moves through to get to
the runway are called ‘taxiways’; the process
itself is called ‘taxiing’.”
By taxiing slowly, the aircraft can stop quickly
and avoid the risk of wheel damage during
turns. Busy aviation hubs sometimes construct
rapid-exit or high-speed taxiways, which allow
the aircraft to vacate the runway more quickly,
permitting another aircraft to land or take off
in a shorter time interval. “The aircraft will taxi
using power from its engines, which are started
once the aircraft has been moved away from
the parking gates,” adds Captain Tundo.
Taxiways usually have a
very hard surface, such
as asphalt or concrete.
Smaller airports sometimes
use grass or gravel.
on the pavement
surface help the
on the taxiway.
Text: Annette Lavrijsen, Jude Tundo, Captain and instructor B737-800 fleet. Image: Abubakar Bajaber
34 / PEOPLE / Comedians
PEOPLE / 35
There was a time when Africa was regarded as
the “dark continent”; but now it’s having the
last laugh, outpouring with BEAUTIFUL
COMEDIANS. It was hard to choose a top five.
text Jackson Biko
Don’t Mess With Kansiime TV show
Best Comedian Award (African
Entertainment Awards USA, 2015)
Arts and Culture Award (Airtel Women of
Substance Awards, 2014)
Best Comedian (BEFFTA, 2013)
Best Actress (Lagos International Film
SHE HAS been called the “Queen of Comedy”
and sometimes queens come from little-known
small towns. And you wouldn’t imagine that a small
town like Kabale can raise a hilarious comedian
like Kansiime. Her funny is the type of funny that’s
unique because it depicts the local African lifestyle,
the stories of local people going through local lives,
delivered in those local accents that every part of
Africa can identify with. Through Kansiime, we see
ourselves and how we live, and we laugh at it all.
After completing her higher education at Makerere
University, where she studied arts and social
sciences, she found herself in the theatre honing her
acting skills, which – unbeknown to her – she would
find handy in the following years. In 2014, after
engaging in circuitous artistic endeavours that
comedians go through before they break through,
she started posting her comedy skits on YouTube,
and everything started combusting on the Internet.
Ugandans started taking notice, but her screen
breakthrough (and indeed her regional prominence)
came when Citizen TV started airing her hilarious
TV show, Don’t Mess With Kansiime. She has since
performed to packed houses in Blantyre, Gaborone,
Kigali, Kuala Lumpur, Lagos, Lilongwe, London
Her genius still remains in telling normal stories
about normal people. She’s relatable, her humour is
natural, her accent is saucy and her wit is the colour
of earth. Kansiime is the kind of comedian who you
root for from the get-go because of her girl-nextdoor
Quote source: Tuko
if he comes to
your inbox asking
for your number,
give him one digit
per month to test
36 / PEOPLE / Comedians
PEOPLE / 37
Johannesburg, South Africa
The Churchill Show
Event Entertainment Award for Churchill Show
(Olx SOMA Awards, 2015)
Showbiz Personality Of The Year (Bingwa Music
Award For Excellence In Comedy (UK Kenya
The Order of the Grand Warrior of Kenya (State
Quote source: Engage Burson-Marsteller
The Daily Show
PGA Award Nominee, 2019
Primetime Emmy Nominee, 2018
Primetime Emmy Winner, 2017
MTV Movie + TV Award Winner, 2017
“My first joke…they switched off the mic. It was so boring to even
myself…they relegated me to face-painting for children”
“If you laugh with somebody then you know
you share something”
DANIEL NDAMBUKI, aka Churchill, is more than a
comedian: he’s the comic culture in which Kenyan comedians
are grown. He started out in theatre in the mid-90s, fresh from
a small town an hour’s drive from Nairobi called Machakos.
He dabbled in acting – never really the leading man – trying to
find a break. From the theatre, he joined the cast of TV show,
Redykyulass. This catapulted him into the living rooms of
Kenyans who were – at that time – embracing the idea of
stand-up comedy on TV. Redykyulass revealed Churchill’s
funny bones. From there, he went on to host a morning show
on a local radio station (and still does). After that, he started
his own comedy TV show, Churchill Show, which features
Kenyan personalities and entertainment figures interspersed
with stand-up acts, and is a big weekly attraction for the TV
audience in Kenya. Churchill plays the gatekeeper, the sensei
of comedy, discovering new talent and also engaging interviewees
in a brief talk-show moment, albeit a light one.
Churchill has transcended comedy and is now nurturing
budding comedians, giving them a platform to show their
true talents. He has managed to turn his comedy career into a
multi-faceted and fledgling business – Laugh Industry Kenya
– that branches off into a kids’ festival, and weekly and fortnightly
Even though his presence in the larger African region is yet
to be felt significantly, he remains a notable and respected figure
in the Kenyan comedy scene for his consistency in raising the
profile of the industry in Kenya and East Africa.
THE WHOLE of Africa claims Trevor Noah as their own
even though he’s South African. He’s our vuvuzela, that plastic
horn that was famous during the 2010 FIFA World Cup. He’s
our ambassador, the son of the soil and our pride, and he
blows loud about Africa.
Noah was born of a Swiss father and a South African
mother during the apartheid period; a time when it was illegal
for whites to mix with blacks, let alone conceive babies. With
immense strength and determination, Noah has drawn his
comedy out of this darkness of segregation. And it has
brought him considerable triumph and success.
Noah’s talent was too special to only limit it to Africa; he
belonged to a wider audience with a wider purpose: to show
that humour also lived in Africa and that Africa could also
give the world a smart and funny, black man. (Oh and handsome
too, according to most ladies.)
It’s clear that the world has embraced Noah because now
he sits on one of the most coveted comedy seats in the US: TV
show, The Daily Show. That in itself is a big deal given that he
replaced the iconic Jon Stewart. But a bigger deal could be that
Noah has shown that the vessel of humour is limitless, and that
a funny joke in Guangzhou, China will still make a Nigerian
smile, if not laugh. He’s not just making everybody laugh, he’s
reaching out and building an eco-social bridge between Africa
and the West. He’s making the world see us – Africans – in a
different way, but also mostly making us understand and appreciate
each other as humans. This means that Noah is not a
comedian or an author; he’s an ambassador of goodwill.
38 / PEOPLE / Comedians
PEOPLE / 39
Kinshasa, Democratic Republic of the Congo
Hosted TEDxEuston in London (2018 and 2019)
Contributor on CNN Talk with Max Foster
First British Comedian to headline at the O2 Arena
Best Male Comedian Nominee (Urban Comedy
Top 5 UK Comedy Talent (Channel 4 Talent, 2008)
Best Newcomer (BECA Comedy Awards, 2006)
Artist of the Year (Vine Awards, 2006)
Quote source: Viva Naija Styled by: Carlene Noel
Hosting his own comedy show – Lord Of The Ribs – on
Pan-African Comedy Central
Savanna Pan-African Comic of the Year Award
(Savanna Comics’ Choice Awards, 2018)
Quote source: Nigeria Films Image: Dreamstime
“Laughter is the best medicine, I am your local pharmacist”
“I actually don’t see any comedian as a competitor
as I’m my own competitor”
AT LAST year’s Dubai Comedy Festival, you could tell
that Eddie Kadi, although now a British citizen, was still
plugged into the African psyche. His humour still reaches out
to his roots and finds the nuances of Africa that seem not to
have left him. But, it was quite refreshing to discover that such
talent can come from the Democratic Republic of the Congo,
a country that has had its challenges over the years.
Kadi is making us look at his homeland in a different way.
His family moved to the UK when he was only eight years old,
settling in Fulham, West London. The bug for comedy bit him
while he was taking a media course at Kingston University
London, where he would frequently host stand-up shows. His
star has grown considerably over time, turning him into a
household name in the UK. Kadi has presented on BBC
Radio 1Xtra and contributed to the animated children’s TV
series, Tinga Tinga Tales.
In fact, Kadi became the first British black comedian to
headline at the 02 Arena. “Some people would say that I
should continue playing it safe in smaller venues but I don’t
see why I should keep taking baby-steps when I am confident
I can take giant leaps,” he said in an article in UK newspaper,
The Independent. “I am always looking to improve and move
my career forward.”
In 2006, Kadi won the Best Newcomer award at the
BECA Comedy Awards. His humour is relevant, refreshing
and free of controversy, making him a notable entertainer in
the comedy circuit in Africa and the world.
YOU DON’T have to listen to Bright Okpocha’s jokes to
know that he’s funny. You can also just read his bio on Twitter,
which consists of several pseudonyms: Bobbly Sparkle, The
Green Baby Hustler, The Emperor, The Mafia Boss and The
Son of Peter. However, Basketmouth is the one he goes by.
Basketmouth is one of Nigeria’s best breakout stand-up comedians
to have broken boundaries to export his comedy to the
rest of Africa and, indeed, the world. He has hosted concerts
featuring Beyoncé, Snoop Dogg, Boyz II Men, Rihanna, Jay Z
and many more international stars. As testimony to his comedy
maturity, he hosted his own comedy show, Lord Of The Ribs,
on Pan-African Comedy Central in 2015.
Basketmouth’s jokes are what every African relates to
regardless of where they might hail from. Things like, “As a
child, my family’s menu consisted of two things – take it or
leave it.” This characterisation is the kind of joke not only
exposes a nostalgic African culture shared by most African
societies, it’s funny in its simplicity.
As a graduate of sociology and anthropology from the
University of Benin, Basketmouth never saw himself as a comedian.
He actually started out in church as a drummer for
the church band, before taking a stab at rapping with band, Da
Psychopaths, in the mid-90s. The band of psychopaths died
without releasing an album, and, inspired by Eddie Murphy,
Basketmouth decided to pursue his comedy. His star continues
to shine, his humour an amalgamation of Africa’s unique people
and peculiarities. Africa can only hope that Basketmouth’s
mouth continues to give basketfuls of laughter.
40 / TREND / Innovation
TREND / 41
In Africa, technology – in the form of DRONES
AND HIGH-ALTITUDE BALLOONS –
is providing solutions to accessibility challenges,
improving agricultural output and stopping
text Ken Kagicha
“Malawi became the first
country in Africa to launch an
air corridor that allows drones
to be used for assessing crisis
WHEN NAIROBI-BASED company Astral Aerial
Solutions saw an opportunity to expand by providing facility
inspection services and crop monitoring, the obvious choice
was to use drones, also known as Unmanned Aerial Vehicles
(UAVs), which can be deployed to access remote areas much
faster and cheaper than ground vehicles and helicopters.
While the company got the go-ahead from Kenya Civil Aviation
Authority to import the drones, they had to go back to the
drawing board as the authority embarked on a comprehensive
review of drone regulations. But this speed bump did not push
back Astral’s bet on drones as a key future development in the
field of aviation. The company signed an agreement with a
South African institution to provide training for commercial
drone pilots in preparation for the regulation framework to
be approved by Kenya’s parliament. This promises to be an
incubator of new jobs.
“We’re already seeing a lot of interest from young people
who want to be drone pilots. Fully utilised, the drone sector
has the potential to create thousands of jobs in the next five
years,” says Kush Gadhia, Business Development Manager at
Astral Aerial Solutions. Astral’s lofty but girded ambition
reflects Africa’s readiness to leapfrog its infrastructure deficit
by using this emerging technology to supply goods and
services in remote regions. But the company’s situation also
paints a picture of a tight balancing act for regulators who,
on the one hand, want to spur innovation in the aviation
sector, while, at the same time, addressing safety and security
According to Air Shepherd, an
organisation that uses technology
to balance the effects of human
development on the environment,
rhino poaching has increased by 9,000
percent in South Africa alone since
2007. Across Africa, every 9-11 hours
a rhino is killed for its horn, which is
more valuable than gold on the black
To counter this US$70-billion illegal
trade, Air Shepherd is working with
wildlife enforcement agencies in
South Africa, Zimbabwe and Malawi
to carry out surveillance using drones.
When poachers are identified, rangers
are informed in real time, increasing
their number of interceptions. In one
vulnerable area, where at least 19
rhinos were being killed every month,
Air Shepherd’s intervention has seen
deaths from poaching drop to zero for
42 / TREND / Innovation
TREND / 43
The urgency to explore these alternative methods is highest
in Africa with the Africa Development Bank estimating
that the continent needs to raise US$170 billion annually in
infrastructure spending to meet the needs of its 1.2 billion
people. And a predominantly rural population, a poor road
network and an innovative spirit have combined to establish
Sub-Saharan Africa as a testing ground for drones.
The Drones on the Horizon report, by the African Union
and the New Partnership for Africa’s Development (NEPAD),
called for African countries to proactively promote technology
in disciplines including crop monitoring, where drones enable
precision agriculture. “Optimising agricultural profit through
increasing productivity and improved yield has benefited from
several innovative developments over the years; one of these
being the use of drones technology,” notes the report.
But the fact that only 26 percent of African countries
have any form of drone regulation – while others have banned
drones – is a classic case of regulation trying to keep pace
with innovation and technology. Nevertheless, according to
Medium article, Drones in Africa, a number of African countries
have been ranked at the top of the Drone Readiness
Index, which looks at how countries are preparing to use
drones for both private and public purposes.
Tanzania – an early adopter of drones – is already using
the technology for flood mapping to predict and mitigate the
risk to affected communities, and it’s Lake Victoria Challenge
(LVC) – an event backed by the Tanzanian government, the
World Bank, UNICEF and others – is exploring how drones
can be commercially deployed in Africa to address the conti-
approach to connecting its
citizens should serve as a
model to other countries”
– Scott Coriell –
nent’s infrastructure deficit. The initiative has attracted international
and regional innovators, some of whom are early
adopters of unmanned aircraft, including a Tanzanian team
that has built a local drone out of bamboo and 3D-printed
parts. LVC’s most-recent event, which took place in January
this year, was a drone flight to Juma: a remote island 22 km
from Mwanza’s airport. The test flight, which was monitored
by air traffic control, served to demonstrate how the delivery
of essential and urgent supplies, such as medicine, can bypass
the inefficient ferry service and the expensive speedboats that
serve Juma and other remote islands in the Lake Victoria area.
The participants of LVC’s symposium, which took place in
October 2018, agreed that the government’s role – providing a
regulatory framework and having more enterprises explore commercial
use of drones – will be the key to the success of the
budding sector, which was non-existent five to seven years ago.
In neighbouring Rwanda, innovation and regulation have
combined neatly to meet an essential need. The country’s progressive
policies, which have significantly reduced the amount
operators pay in liability insurance and eased the process of
acquiring a flying permit, have spurred interest in the country’s
airspace. Rwanda’s progressive regulation is part of its SMART
Rwanda Master Plan that aims to attract US$1 billion in investments
in information and communications technology (ICT).
Opportunities include a first-of-a-kind drone port that will be a
hub for drone operations in the country.
The poster child of Rwanda’s drone launch is Zipline, a US
company that has set up a blood-delivery and medical supplies
service in Rwanda. The award-winning company, which is
often cited as the most successful drone-delivery programme
in the world, has, over the last three years, dropped off over
11,000 packages in rural Rwanda. This can be a lifesaving
intervention because, in an average of 30 minutes, Zipline’s
drones can deliver a payload that takes 5 hours by road.
A team of researchers in South Africa, Zimbabwe and
Malawi, collaborating as an organisation called Air Shepherd,
is combining drones and artificial intelligence to hunt down
poachers who operate under the cover of darkness in vast
wildlife parks. Air Shepherd (see the box on the opening
page) flies its silent electric-powered drones, which have
clocked over 6,000 flight hours to date, for surveillance and
captures information in real time through the drones’ infrared
and image-processing cameras that in turn allows rangers to
be more precise when intercepting poaching activity, during
the day and at night.
Following a successful trial run, Malawi became the first
country in Africa to launch an air corridor that allows drones
to be used for assessing crisis situations and delivering emergency
supplies. The growth of the drone sub-sector is already
fuelling Africa’s entrepreneurial spirit with drone companies,
such as Kenya’s Orbital Africa – which provides photography,
mapping and monitoring services by drone – being created
and running profitably across the continent.
But it’s not just drones that are redefining Africa’s airspace.
Google’s sister company, Loon, has partnered with a Kenyan
telco to pilot Africa’s first high-altitude balloons, which act as
floating cell towers. The balloons operate at a height of 20 km,
which is well above air traffic, wildlife and weather events, and
they provide 4G (a cellular data network) coverage to rural and
suburban areas in central Kenya.
Scott Coriell, Head of Global Communications at Loon,
says that the solar-powered balloons’ greater coverage makes it
feasible to provide service to areas that telcos view as uneconomical
due to sparsely distributed populations. “One balloon
can cover an area roughly 40 times greater than what can be
served by a traditional ground-based tower,” he says. “Additionally,
because the balloon provides service from above, we do not
face the same obstacles that can sometimes block a signal from
a ground station, such as buildings or mountains.”
Coriell adds that the support his pilot project has received
from government agencies, particularly in Kenya, has helped the
Internet giant test its first commercial mast balloon. “Kenya’s
innovative approach to connecting its citizens should serve as a
model to other countries looking to employ new technologies to
promote greater connectivity,” he says.
Loon’s balloons float at a height of 20 km
In Africa, 21 countries have drone
The global market for business services
using drones was valued at over US$127
billion in 2016
Air Shepherd has carried out over 4,000
missions so far in South Africa, Malawi
Zipline has dropped over 11,000 medical
packages in Rwanda
44 / BUSINESS / Book review
TRAVEL / Tips / 45
No Hard Feelings:
The Secret Power
Emotions at Work
Liz Fosslien & Mollie West Duffy
Liz Fosslien is a strategy and design
consultant and illustrator. Her
work has been featured on or by
publications including The Economist
and Life Hacker. Mollie West Duffy is
an organisational designer at global
design company IDEO, and she has
helped companies and startups
develop workplace cultures.
Our emotions make us human, so it
pays to make sense of our feelings in a
professional and personal setting. In
seven “new rules”, the authors explore
how to identify, interpret and apply the
emotions we encounter at work.
“How & when
to rely on your
Do you think that being professional
means leaving your feelings at home?
Nothing could be less true. No Hard
Feelings reveals how to navigate the
emotional minefield that is the office.
Top tips from the book.
To be productive, team members
should, “Feel safe throwing out ideas,
taking risks and asking questions.” It’s
all about psychological safety. “If you
don’t let people speak up, or make
them feel stupid, you limit your team’s
chances of pulling off something magical.”
How to foster a “safe” culture?
A “bad ideas brainstorm”, inviting the
most absurd ideas, takes the pressure
off. Also encourage open discussion.
Questions, such as “Does anyone
disagree?”, stop people from voicing
People would rather break up with
someone than confront a colleague in a
difficult work-related conversation, a
survey cited in the book reveals. So,
how to bite the bullet and have that
talk? “Label your feelings, understand
where those feelings are coming from
and feel calm enough to hear the other
person out.” If you are not able to do
this, wait until you are. Why? “Effective
communication depends on our ability
to talk about emotions without getting
“Trust between leaders and workers
breaks down completely if leaders never
show any emotion at all.” It’s also bad
for leaders’ own health to not express
their emotions, the authors write. The
best leaders, they point out, are able to
open up to their staff. “So what’s the
line between sharing, which builds trust,
and oversharing, which destroys it?”
The answer? “Show vulnerability when
assessing a difficult situation, but then
present a clear path forward.”
About the book
With tips on everything from
crying in the office, dealing
with conflict and not getting
pulled in by complainers, here
is a mix of anecdotes, research
and practical takeaways offset
with fun illustrations portraying
situations we face at work;
including the dreaded “can we
chat” email from the boss.
Text: Annemarie Hoeve
Text: Emma van Egmond Image: Alamy
Welcome to the gateway to the Alps.
Geneva is ideally situated to explore the
stunning SURROUNDING mountainside
areas, lakes and – partly French – villages.
Here are four great options.
Strolling on a filmset
Situated on top of a hill in the
Rhône-Alpes region, you’ll find
Pérouges: one of the most
beautiful villages in France. It’s
a perfectly preserved medieval
jewel full of history, old stone
gates, winding and paved
streets, cosy squares – such as
Place du Tilleul – and colourful
gardens. It’s well worth the
1.5-hour drive from Geneva.
Hidden between the mountain
slopes Moléson and Dent du
Chamois (1.5 hours by road
from Geneva), you’ll discover
Gruyères. This traffic-free town
boasts stunning Swiss scenery,
from rolling, green hills and
snow-capped mountains to
picture-perfect castles, such as
Château de Gruyères. This town
is world-famous for its Gruyère
cheese. To find out more about
this heavenly specialty, we
recommend a visit to cheese
farm La Maison du Gruyère.
Going sky high
Get ready for an hour-long drive
from Geneva to the French
mountain resort, Chamonix.
This popular skiing spot lies
at the base of Mont Blanc
and is known for its 169 km
of legendary slopes. But,
Chamonix is also worth a visit
beyond the winter season. Hop
in the cable car to Aiguille du
Midi for a breathtaking view
(at a height of 3,842 m) of the
Swiss-, French- and Italian Alps.
The lively city centre has lots of
atmospheric restaurants, bars
and shops, and the surrounding
area is a hiking and biking
Along the quiet river
Enjoy the most beautiful parts
of the Rhône, one of Europe’s
longest rivers (812 km),
during a three-hour cruise. The
boat takes you from Geneva
to Verbois, and it sails past
unspoilt nature along the
riverbanks, through lavenderfilled
landscapes and past
rolling hills that are dotted with
castles and charming villages.
46 / BUSINESS / Country at a glance
Sources: cia.gov Sources: nationsonline.org / cia.gov / gfmag.com
Sources: cia.gov Sources: nationsonline.org / cia.gov / gfmag.com
Official name Republic of of Angola
30,355,880 (July 2018 est.)
US$126.5 billion (2017 est.)
Local time UTC +1h
Neighbouring Namibia, Zambia, Democratic Republic of of the
Congo and Republic of of the Congo
Portuguese (official), Umbundu, Kikongo,
Kimbundu, Chokwe and others.
Kenya Airways operates flights to to Luanda
three times a a week.
’16 ’16 ’17 ’17
GDP growth compared to to
the the previous year in in Angola
(in (in percentages)
At a glance
Have a closer look at the potential of Angola.
The most relevant FACTS AND FIGURES,
touristic attractions and social trends of today.
text Yvette Bax infographics Chantal van Wessel/Vizualism
1,000 km km
Business & economy
Subsistence agriculture provides the main
livelihood for for most of of the people, but half
of of the countryʼs food is is still imported.
Angola is is moving
gradually towards aa
more market-based, floating
exchange rate regime with a a
nominal monetary anchor.
Angolaʼs oil oil production and its its
supporting activities contribute
about 50% of of GDP and more than
90% of of the countryʼs exports.
currency controls and
increased transparency in in
foreign exchange allocations
through regular auctions and
Sources: cia.gov / worldbank.org / dhsprogram.com
Sources: cia.gov / worldbank.org / dhsprogram.com
Sources: cia gov / atlas.media.mit.edu
Sources: cia gov / atlas.media.mit.edu
2. 2. Tundavala Fissure
1. 1. The Miradouro da da Lua
The Tundavala Fissure is is one of of the most spectacular natural sights in in Angola.
(Viewpoint of of the Moon)
The canyon lies at at an an elevation of of 2,600 m and has phenomenal views.
Carved over time by by rain and wind erosion,
Miradouro da da Lua, a a set of of tricoloured
cliffs that resemble a a lunar landscape,
is is best viewed at at sunset when its its
hues are at at their most vivid.
3. 3. Kissama National Park
Situated 70-km south of of Luanda, this is is Angolaʼs
most accessible and most abundant wildlife park.
This sprawling mass of of coastal savannah is is home
to to elephants, buffalo, sea turtles and more.
4. 4. Luanda
Angola’s capital, Luanda, is is a a
lively and vivid city, which has
much to to offer, such as as the
Fortress of of São Miguel, the
National Museum of of Slavery
and the Iron Palace, which
was built by by world-renowned
architect, Gustav Eiffel.
Imports and exports
Top Top 55 import partners
Republic of of the the Congo
Top Top 55 imports
1. 1. Refined petroleum 3.2%.
2. 2. Poultry meat 2.7%.
3. 3. Excavation machinery 2.5%.
4. 4. Passenger and cargo ships 2.5%.
5. 5. Raw Sugar 2%.
Top Top 55 exports
1. 1. Crude petroleum 88%.
2. 2. Petroleum gas gas 4.5%.
3. 3. Diamonds 4.3%.
Top Top 55 export partners
4. 4. Refined petroleum 0.75%.
5. 5. Passenger and cargo
1. 1. In In 2012, the UN UN declared
that Angola had been stable
for for several years – following
civil war – and invoked a a
cessation of of refugee status for for Angolans.
2. 2. A A province of of
of of the the
is is found outside
of of the the Congo
– making it it an an
Republic of of the
Congo and the
Republic of of the
3. 3. Portuguese
Cão, arrived here in in
1484. He He was the
first European to to
set set foot in in Angola.
4. 4. Angola was
named after the
of of Ndongo, whose
kings were called
Ana Nzinga was a a 17th-century queen of of the
Ndongo and Matamba Kingdoms.
Sources: cia.gov / factsking.com / justfunfacts.com / worldatlas.com / CNBC / GFP Sources: nationsonline.org / justfunfacts.com / lonelyplanet.com / the crazy tourist
Sources: cia.gov / factsking.com / justfunfacts.com / worldatlas.com / CNBC / GFP Sources: nationsonline.org / justfunfacts.com / lonelyplanet.com / the crazy tourist
48 / BUSINESS / Chocolate
BUSINESS / 49
Chocolate is among the world’s most popular
delicacies, and it’s the quintessential
MOTHER’S DAY GIFT in many countries.
But how is it made, and is it sustainable?
text Joseph Maina
Stocksy, Getty Images
“CHOCOLATES HAVE long been
associated with courtesy and gratitude,”
says Dr Joy Kiiru, a senior lecturer at
the University of Nairobi’s School of
Economics. “So, if I give you chocolate,
it’s a polite gesture showing that I appreciate
you. Chocolate is a feel-good item
and a gesture of appreciation. If you
want to send a statement of love and
goodwill, you give chocolate.”
Indeed, as many countries celebrate
Mother’s Day this month, millions of
chocolate products will find their way
into the hands of mothers across the
globe, given by their sons and daughters
as a symbol of love and appreciation.
However, they might not know how it
came into being.
IT GROWS ON TREES
Chocolate is a product of cocoa
beans, which grow on cocoa trees. The
cocoa tree bears fruit – pods – on its
trunk and branches that contain cocoa
beans. For optimal growth, cocoa needs
high temperatures, plenty of water and
moist air. The crop thrives in the hot
and humid regions of Africa, Central
and South America, Asia and Oceania.
According to the World Bank’s report,
Forest- and Climate-Smart Cocoa in Côte
d’Ivoire and Ghana, two-thirds of the
world’s cocoa is grown in Africa, with the
majority produced by Côte d’Ivoire and
Ghana. Other cocoa-producing countries
in Africa include Madagascar,
Uganda, São Tomé and Príncipe, Togo
Almost 90 percent of Africa’s cocoa
comes from smallholdings of under five
hectares, where cultivation is generally
extensive. The harvesting of cocoa pods
is a labour-intensive process, and often
calls for the input of the whole family.
Once ripe, cocoa beans go through
various steps before they finally become
chocolate (see box on the right).
INCOME FOR 20 MILLION
The UN’s Food and Agriculture
Organization (FAO) notes that over 20
million people depend directly on cocoa
for their livelihoods. According to FAO,
traders buy the processed cocoa beans
from farmers, and then sell them to
grinders who make semi-manufactured
products (liquor, butter, presscake and
powder). These products end up with
chocolate makers or confectioners for
the production of chocolate or chocolate-based
“The East African community
offers a wide opportunity in terms of
the market demand for goods and
services,” says Dr Kiiru. “It comes along
with a population of about 146 million,
as of 2015. Currently, we expect the
market to have grown. The GDP at
market prices stood at approximately
US$1.47 billion according to 2015
statistics, and we expect that that figure
has also grown.”
According to Dr Kiiru, the market
has been recording a positive growth
rate over time, meaning that incomes are
also increasing in the region. This will
likely lead to an increasing consumption
of finished products, and high demand.
“Kenya has big opportunities for some
of these finished goods, mainly because
we’re looking at an expanding middle
class, which comes with a demand for
luxury goods,” says Dr Kiiru. “Also,
Kenya has sustained an increased per
capita growth rate with reduced poverty
levels, and that means the market for
finished goods and services is there.
The consumerism in Kenya is actually
Away from the billions made from
the production of chocolate is a growing
call for stakeholders – who include
consumers of cocoa products – to take
care of the farming communities that
toil in the fields to produce this tasty >
“Fair trade highlights the need for change in the
rules and practice of conventional trade and shows
how a successful business can also put people first”
From bean to bar
1 Once they’re harvested, cocoa beans are removed from ripe pods. These beans
are then taken through a two-part curing process of fermentation and drying.
2 The beans are roasted and then winnowed, which yields the roasted cocoa nib.
3 The cocoa nibs are ground into a paste called “liquor”.
4 Cocoa butter is removed from the liquor.
5 The liquor and cocoa butter are blended with other ingredients to produce
chocolate. This is called “conching”.
6 The chocolate is “tempered” (heated and cooled several times), creating an
50 / BUSINESS / Chocolate
Fair trade brands
• In 1994, Maya Gold became the first
chocolate in the UK to be awarded the
Fairtrade mark. The bar was inspired by a
traditional Mayan drink of cocoa and spice
• Certified Cocoa is among ways Guittard,
a US-based chocolate maker, empowers
farmers and farmer groups to instil best
agricultural and social practices.
• Nestlé seeks to improve the lives of farmers
in its cocoa supply chain through its Nestlé
Cocoa Plan, which is active in the main
cocoa-producing countries, with the focus
being on the world’s largest source countries:
Côte d’Ivoire and Ghana.
• Divine Chocolate is co-owned by the
85,000 members of Kuapa Kokoo, a farm
cooperative in Ghana that supplies Divine
with cocoa. Farmers get a share in the
profits, a say in the company and a voice in
the global marketplace.
• Cocoa Life, which is supported by Mondelēz
International chocolate brands (Cadbury, Côte
d’Or, Freia, Marabou, Milka and Suchard), is
on a mission to empower at least 200,000
cocoa farmers and reach one million
community members. Cocoa Life helps
communities thrive in six key cocoa-growing
origins: Ghana, Côte d’Ivoire, Indonesia, India,
the Dominican Republic and Brazil.
treat. This advocacy takes the face of
fair trade. The number of farmers is
falling because the benefits are so poor
that few young people want to be in the
profession these days. “The average age
of a cocoa farmer is over 50,” states the
Fairtrade Foundation. “Farmers aren’t
benefiting sufficiently, and remain in
poverty as their income fails to keep up
with rising production costs and household
According to the World Fair Trade
Organization (WFTO), fair trade is a
trading partnership that’s based on
conventional trade and shows how a
successful business can also put people
first. It’s a tangible contribution to the
fight against poverty, climate change
and economic crisis. “Doing so unlocks
the potential of business to be a force
for good,” says Outah.
When purchasing a gift for a loved
one, it’s important to consider whether
the item has been produced in a fair
system. Products in a fair-trade system
are produced under strictly enforced
standards, which promote better working
conditions and improved terms of trade
for farmers and workers involved in the
production. Besides improving the terms
of trade, the fair trade movement advocates
for the protection of children and
the preservation of the environment.
Despite providing more than half of
the world’s cocoa, Africa manufacturers
produce very little of the world’s chocolate.
However, brands such as Madécasse
are keen on changing this dynamic by
“The number of farmers is falling because the
benefits are so poor that few young people want
to be in the profession”
dialogue, transparency and respect, and
seeks greater equity in international
trade. Fair trade contributes to sustainable
development by offering better
trading conditions for marginalised
producers and workers. Bernard Outah,
Regional Director, Africa & the Middle
East for the WTFO, says that despite its
successes, fair trade has encountered
several challenges, particularly in Africa,
Asia and Latin America. Among these
challenges is a lack of awareness among
the general public. “We need to encourage
local consumers, and, indeed,
consumers everywhere, to make buying
decisions that secure clean rivers and
healthy soils for communities and farmers,
and guarantee sustainable use of
the natural resources,” he says.
Fair trade highlights the need for
change in the rules and practice of
making chocolate entirely in Africa.
“Madécasse empowers Madagascar’s
cocoa farmers with skills training
and higher wages,” thegoodtrade.com
explains. “They source other ingredients
locally in Madagascar as well, then
actually make their chocolate on the
island. So far, they’ve created meaningful
income for over 200 people in Madagascar;
from chocolate making, to
packaging production, to the farming
of the cocoa, spices and fruits.”
Products bearing the Fairtrade
International mark help to address the
injustice of low prices by guaranteeing
that producers receive fair terms of
trade and fair prices, notes the Ethical
Trading Initiative. Other notable marks
include Fair Trade Certified, Fair Trade
Federation, Rainforest Alliance, UTZ
and Fair for Life.
52 / TRAVEL / Rome
TRAVEL / 53
A spring stroll through ROME
reveals riches, both cultural and
culinary, hidden throughout Italy’s
fascinating Eternal City.
text Ingrid K. Williams
Barabara Groen, Matteo Colombo, Stocksy, Denise Zwijnen
MORE THAN 1,500 years since the fall of the Roman Empire, there
remains an unmistakable grandeur to Italy’s ancient capital. As I stand in
front of the Coliseum at dusk, modern-day Rome momentarily slips
away; the buzzing Vespas and honking taxis are replaced by battle-ready
gladiators approaching this colossal amphitheatre with brandished
swords and gilded shields. Alas, as I return to reality, I’m reminded that
the only gladiators milling around are costumed actors posing beside the
arena, one of countless historical treasures waiting to be discovered in this
sprawling city’s various neighbourhoods. >
1. The famous colonnades of St. Peter’s Square 2. Trevi Fountain 3. A wine bar at
Piazza del Popolo 4. A classic Fiat 500 5. Street to Piazza di Pasquino 6. St. Peter’s
Basilica 7. Terrace in the hip and trendy Monti quarter.
54 / TRAVEL / Rome
TRAVEL / 55
I often return to this complex capital, which is an easy train ride from
my home on Italy’s northwestern coast. As someone who enjoys exploring
on foot, I never tire of getting lost in Rome’s distinct districts, particularly
in the spring when Roman life returns to the sun-warmed streets and
picturesque piazzas. Fall and winter are also marvellous seasons in Rome,
but I’m partial to spring when a warm breeze floats down the Tiber River
and local markets overflow with tender artichokes, spring asparagus and
sweet strawberries. Most importantly, this is prime season for a passeggiata
– the Italian pastime of aimless strolling – through the culture-rich city
streets that boast nearly three millennia of art, architecture and history.
Summer is less appealing because of the blazing heat. This is when many
businesses shutter for ferie, the long summer vacation during which Italians
flee the cities for the coast.
A MONUMENTAL START
The natural place to begin is in the Centro Storico (historic city centre),
which is a labyrinth of cobblestone lanes and traffic-clogged boulevards
where ancient monuments coexist with everyday life. Strolling these streets,
I’m always startled by the contrasts. One minute, I’ll be walking along
residential lanes, past ivy-draped balconies and shopkeepers smoking in
doorways. And the next, I’ve turned a corner onto Piazza Navona, one of
the city’s most opulent squares with its elegant Baroque architecture,
ancient Roman obelisk and three grandiose fountains. Or I’ll stumble upon
the famous Trevi Fountain, where Anita Ekberg and Marcello Mastroianni
frolicked in the 1960 Federico Fellini film, La Dolce Vita. Local legend says
that tossing in a coin – with your back to the fountain, right hand over your
left shoulder – will ensure your eventual return to Rome, and I always
oblige. When it’s time for a short rest, sidle up to the counter at Roscioli
Caffè, a narrow coffee bar – popular among locals and tourists alike – for
an espresso and a maritozzo (a cream-filled sweet bun). Then continue on to
the Pantheon, an ancient Roman temple rebuilt betweeen AD 118 and AD
128 during the reign of the emperor Hadrian. This well-preserved architectural
masterpiece, which was later used as a church, is best viewed from
inside where sunlight streams into a central rotunda through an oculus in
the building’s hemispherical dome.
“Gelato in hand,
through the neighbourhood’s
alleyways, past aging
buildings with laundry
hanging from windowsill
EAT & DRINK
Sip your morning cappuccino at this
specialty coffee bar and pastry shop;
the latest venture from the Roscioli
family who also run a superb bakery
(Antico Forno Roscioli) and restaurant
(Salumeria Roscioli) in the historic centre.
Piazza Benedetto Cairoli, 16.
Satisfy your sweet tooth at this innovative
gelateria, which has several locations
around the city. Imaginative flavours
are made from seasonal, all-natural
ingredients with many sugar-, dairy- and
gluten-free options available.
Via Roma Libera, 11.
Mercato di Testaccio
Beside the city’s old slaughterhouse,
this historic market caters to local cooks
and visiting foodies alike, with streetfood
stalls serving authentic Roman fare
alongside butchers, bakers and pastamakers.
Via Alessandro Volta.
After ticking off some of the city’s top sights, cross the 15th-century
Ponte Sisto bridge to the west bank of the Tiber River where you’ll find
the lively neighbourhood of Trastevere. Formerly a working-class district,
this picturesque area has a well-worn, quintessentially Roman charm
that’s perfect for exploring on a passeggiata. On sunny days, do as the
Romans do and stop for a gelato (ice cream) at Fatamorgana, a favourite
gelateria (ice cream shop) known for its natural ingredients and imaginative
flavours. Warm weather calls for a cup made from seasonal fruit, like
watermelon or pensiero, a tart blend of pink grapefruit, ginger, >
1. Street in the Trastevere quarter 2. Bar San Calisto 3. The façade of the famous
Antico Forno Roscioli bakery 4. The Coliseum, the world’s largest amphitheatre
5. Limoncello 6. Ice cream at Park Villa Borghese 7. St. Peter’s Basilica seen from
Ponte Vittorio Emanuele II 8. Artichokes at the Campo de’ Fiori Market 9. A bar in the
Flavio al Velavevodetto
Traditional Roman cuisine is the calling
card at this casual restaurant, which is
built into the side of Monte Testaccio,
an ancient dumping ground for Roman
amphorae (terracotta ceramics), the
remains of which are displayed through
arched windows inside.
Via di Monte Testaccio, 97.
There’s always a line outside this
superb pizza-by-the-slice joint, where
the sourdough base is made from
heirloom wheat flour. Toppings, which are
seasonal, change daily.
Via della Meloria, 43. bonci.it
Barabara Groen, Matteo Colombo, Denise Zwijnen, Susan Wright
56 / TRAVEL / Rome
TRAVEL / 57
Design connoisseurs will adore this boutique
hotel where luxurious suites are furnished with
mid-century antiques from Italian designers,
such as Ico Parisi and Giò Ponti, in a historic
residence near Piazza Navona.
Piazza di Pasquino, 69. g-rough.com
1 3 4
Owned by the Ferragamo family, this elegant
townhouse is located on the most fashionable
street in Rome, and it boasts impeccable suites,
faultless service and sweeping views from a
Via Bocca di Leone, 23.
For cool style on a tight budget, this upscale
hostel near the central train station offers
shared dorms as well as cosy private rooms with
colourful, contemporary décor.
Via Principe Amedeo, 251.
J.K. Place Roma
Situated in the historic centre near the Tiber
River, this luxury hotel is supremely stylish, from
the white-marble sculptures in the lobby to plush
suites outfitted with fireplaces and four-poster
Via di Monte d’Oro, 30. jkroma.com
horseradish and caramelised lemon. Gelato in hand, continue strolling
through the neighbourhood’s cobblestone alleyways, past aging buildings
with laundry hanging from windowsill clotheslines, street-side trattorias
(restaurants) with checked-linen tables, and peaceful alleys patrolled by
local cats. Art lovers may consider continuing on to the nearby Villa
Farnesina, a Renaissance-era mansion with beautiful interior frescos,
including a masterpiece by Raphael. Or rest your feet in Piazza di Santa
Maria, a bustling square in the heart of Trastevere, where you can watch
the world go by from a perch on the steps of the central fountain.
TASTE OF TESTACCIO
Rome’s culinary traditions are as worthy of attention as its ancient
sights, and one of the best areas to sample traditional Roman flavours is
in the southern neighbourhood of Testaccio. Here you can explore one
of the city’s oldest food markets, Mercato di Testaccio, which is now
located in a bright modern complex with over 100 vendors. Shop for
juicy cherries, ripe tomatoes, handmade pasta and roasted coffee beans.
If you’re hungry, order a panino (sandwich) at Mordi e Vai, a stall serving
rolls stuffed with classic Roman specialties, such as tripe, oxtail and fried
meatballs. Those seeking a proper sit-down meal can reserve a table at
Flavio al Velavevodetto, a nearby osteria (pub), for a glass of red wine
and tonnarelli cacio e pepe (fresh pasta in a velvety pecorino-and-pepper
sauce). In spring, try the carciofi alla romana (Roman-style artichokes), a
beloved local and seasonal dish.
6 7 9
Barbara Groen, Matteo Colombo, Denise Zwijnen, Susan Wright
The Must-See Sights
Over 7 million tourists a year visit the Roman
Coliseum, the world’s largest amphitheatre,
which is nearly 2,000 years old. The ancient
50,000-seat arena where gladiators once
battled is the top tourist attraction in Italy.
A vast rectangular plaza, the Roman Forum
was the heart of everyday life in ancient Rome.
A history buff’s dream, these sprawling ruins
include the remains of archaic government
buildings and the burial site of Julius Caesar.
St. Peter’s Basilica
Situated atop Vatican Hill, St. Peter’s Basilica is
one of the largest churches in the world, and it’s
among the most significant within Christianity.
This masterpiece of Renaissance architecture
is filled with opulent mosaics and sculptures,
including Michelangelo’s Pietà.
Kenya Airways will begin flying to Rome (Italy)
and Geneva (Switzerland) from Nairobi’s Jomo
Kenyatta International Airport on 12 June.
No trip to Rome would be complete without a visit to the Vatican,
which is the papal residence and the headquarters of the Roman Catholic
Church. Those eager to see Pope Francis in person can reserve tickets to
a Papal Audience, which are held on Wednesdays in St. Peter’s Square
when the Pontiff is not travelling. Plan to arrive early for a visit to the
Vatican Museums, a palatial complex housing one of the world’s greatest
collections of art. Once inside, marvel at the lavish rooms displaying masterpieces
by Giotto, Da Vinci and Caravaggio, 16th-century frescos by
Raphael and the magnificent 14th-century Sistine Chapel. After admiring
Michelangelo’s famous ceiling frescos and altarpiece, take a short stroll
to sample another Roman icon, pizza al taglio (pizza by the slice). At
Pizzarium, a bustling take-away pizzeria run by the acclaimed baker
Gabriele Bonci, choose among a dozen or so rectangular pizzas piled
with seasonal toppings, such as artichokes and mozzarella, zucchini
flowers, or ricotta with spicy ‘nduja sausage. Scissor-snipped slices can be
consumed on the spot, perhaps with a local craft beer. Or take it with you
on your continued peripatetic exploration of Rome.
1. The view from the roof terrace at Hotel Raphael 2. The Pantheon’s dome 3. Pasta at
Campo de’ Fiori market 4. Espresso bar 5. A man enjoying an ice cream at Gelateria
Tre Archi 6. Artisanal beers at no.au bar 7. Interior of St. Peter’s Basilica in the Vatican
City 8. Bicycle with a basket full of chillies in the Trastevere quarter 9. Restaurant
Alimentari Coronari, Piazza dei Coronari.
58 / WILDLIFE / Whale migration
WILDLIFE / 59
OF A TIME
The great wildebeest migration has a twin: the
migration of HUMPBACK WHALES from
Antarctica into East African waters, which comes
close to Kenya’s Watamu Beach. It’s another reason
to visit Kenya’s spectacular coastal region.
text Sarah Haaij
60 / WILDLIFE / Whale migration
WILDLIFE / 61
“One of the best places to
see the whales is
Watamu in Kilifi County”
ASK ANY tourist to name the Big
Five of Kenya, and they will probably
be able to recite them (lions, leopards,
rhinos, elephants and buffalo). Equally
well known and treasured is Kenya’s
wildebeest migration: the yearly wildlife
phenomenon, whereby the thundering
hooves of uncountable wildebeest arrive
from Tanzania into Kenya’s Maasai
Mara National Reserve.
What far fewer people know,
however, is that this event coincides
with another natural phenomenon: the
whale migration, which is known as the
Twin Migration. Every year, humpback
whales migrate north, from the icy seas
of Antarctica to Kenya’s coast. After
a journey of more than 5,000 km, the
gigantic mammals rest in the secluded
protection of the tropical reefs, where
they will mate or give birth to their
Both the terrestrial migration, as
well as its oceanic twin, peak between
July and September. This provides visitors
with the opportunity to witness two
wildlife phenomena in one visit.
MARINE BIG FIVE
One of the best places to see the
whales is Watamu in Kilifi County; a
coastal town known for its beautiful
coral reefs, exciting water sports and
mangroves. “Everyone knows the Big
Five,” says Steve Trott. “But at the
coast, we have something equally
impressive; it’s what we call the Marine
Big Five: whales, dolphins, whale sharks,
sea turtles and billfish.”
Trott is one of the founders of the
Watamu Marine Association (WMA),
an organisation that aims to protect the
natural surroundings and marine life of
Watamu. What began with a plastic
clean-up on the beach has now developed
into a community initiative for
sustainable tourism. “During one of
our actions, a conservation project for
dolphins, we discovered that we have a
good number of whales coming through
Watamu,” says Trott, who trained as a
marine biologist. “But nobody really
knew anything about the status of this
population. There was no research, let
alone protection programmes.” In early
2012, some people didn’t believe that
Trott and his colleagues had seen
whales close to the Kenyan coast.
“That’s why we invite everyone to join
a whale-watching trip and see for themselves,’’
HOT SPOTS FOR HUMPBACKS
Making the most of summer in the
Southern Hemisphere, the whales spend
a lot of time around the South Pole,
feeding on krill and small fish. But,
when the polar winter kicks in, the
mammals start their journey for warmer
waters in the north. Each group of
whales has its own migration route.
Some groups will swim all the way up
the Pacific coast, to South America and
California in the US, while an estimated
4,000-5,000 fins travel to the East Africa
coast passing Mozambique, Tanzania
and Kenya. The population congregates
and stays at different spots along the
way, while some continue northward.
Two of the stops along the route
are the Malindi and Watamu Marine
National Parks, where more and more
visitors arrive to meet these majestic
mammals. “Last season, we had a fishing
boat going out whale watching daily,”
says Trott. “And, most importantly,
we’re promoting responsible whale
watching; making sure the whales are
Stress, caused by harassment or
sounds, can negatively impact whales’
behaviour and breeding habits. By
approaching slowly, keeping a distance
and refraining from interaction with
mothers and calves, tourist guides can
ensure that whale watching is equally
fun for everyone involved.
“And, if you’re lucky, you’ll have an
amazing experience,” says Trott. “Witnessing
a 40,000-kg giant leaping out of
the sea – and it can go as high as one
metre – and splashing back into the
RETURN OF THE WHALE
Before a 1986 moratorium on whaling,
the number of humpbacks reached
an absolute low; with the population
being hunted until its numbers fell by
90 percent. While there has been some
recovery, whales and other marine mammals
are still at risk of man-made threats,
such as unregulated whale watching,
plastic pollution, fishing by-catch, oil
and gas exploration, and ocean traffic.
“Big vessels produce a lot of noise,
and this can disorient the whales who
depend on sound communication when
looking for food, for example,” says
Michael Mwang’ombe. ‘’In the worst
case, this can result in stranding or
collisions with ships.’’
Mwang’ombe is a data expert and
scientist working with WMA and the
Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS). >
What we know about
• They’re named after the distinctive hump in
front of their small dorsal fin.
• Humpback whales are known for their songs,
which travel for great distances through the
ocean. Scientists are still deciphering the true
meaning of these magical sounds. It’s most
likely that humpbacks sing to communicate
with others, and to attract potential mates.
• Growing up to 15 m and weighing 40 tonnes,
these gigantic mammals are the size of a
• Females are larger than males.
• They migrate farther than any other mammal
on Earth; and they can travel around 5,000
km between their breeding and feeding
• According to scientists, the longest recorded
migration ever is 8,299 km. It occurred
between Costa Rica and Antarctica.
• Mothers and their young swim closely
together, often touching one another with
their flippers with, what we think are,
gestures of affection.
62 / WILDLIFE / Whale migration
WILDLIFE / 63
“Stress, caused by harassment or
sounds, can negatively
impact whales’ behaviour”
A few years ago, Mwang’ombe didn’t
know much more about whales than the
Bible story he learnt, which was about
Jonah, who was swallowed by the whale.
But, since his work with WMA,
Mwang’ombe has become fascinated by
what he now affectionately calls, “The
friendliest animals in our oceans”.
In a joint effort with the KWS,
Mwang’ombe has been conducting the
first consistent studies of marine mammals
on the Kenyan coast. They have
been photographing dolphins and whales
to identify them, and collecting data on
whale sightings along the migration route.
Now he aims to share this knowledge
with all the important partners and the
community. During trainings and workshops,
WMA and Mwang’ombe reach
out to schoolchildren, fishermen, hotel
owners and government bodies. “The
important thing we’ve achieved is that the
community has embraced the whales and
are willing to protect them,’’ says
For example, in earlier days, local
fisherman could experience problems
when they encountered whales. When
fishing along the migration routes, they
would lose fishing gear or find an animal
entangled in their nets. Now, these
fishermen are incorporated into the
conservation programme. They function
as community whale reporters: photographing
whales and dolphins when they
see them, reporting sighting locations of
whales and other marine animals, and
sharing this valuable information in the
communal WhatsApp group.
“We encouraged the start of a citizen
science network, in which all marine
users report and share valuable data
with us,’’ says Mwang’ombe. More so,
fishermen now generate extra income by
combining fishing trips with dolphin
and whale watching for tourists.
Mwang’ombe is proud to see how
the people of Watamu have managed to
bring different interests together for the
benefit of both the community as well
as the whales. “It’s amazing to see all
the people participating for the greater
It’s rather fitting, then, that Watamu
means “sweet people” in Swahili.
Whales are very important
for the ocean
Whale faeces is rich in nutrients,
such as nitrogen and iron. That’s how
it contributes to the development
of tiny, single-celled plants called
phytoplankton. Whale faeces forms
the first link in the ocean food chain,
providing food for zooplankton, such
as krill, which is also important food
ENTERTAINMENT / 65
offers its passengers
The programme will
vary in different aircraft
types. Check your
screen to view the
selection on your flight.
Relax & Enjoy
Discover our complimentary blockbusters, new releases,
African films, all-time favourites, Bollywood films, TV, audio and
games during your flight. These are this season’s highlights.
(read more on the next page)
We believe in each other.
– Freddie Mercury –
G Suitable for all ages PG Some material may not be suitable for children PG-13 Some material may be inapproriate for children under 13
R Under-17s should watch only with parental approval Please note: at certain periods of the month the programming may differ from that shown.
66 / ENTERTAINMENT
ENTERTAINMENT / 67
From obscurity to worldwide fame,
Bohemian Rhapsody tells the tale
of Freddie Mercury and the band
that catapulted him to stardom:
The Crimes Of Grindelwald (2018) ADVENTURE
The second installment of the “Fantastic Beasts” series set in J.K. Rowling’s
Wizarding World featuring the adventures of “magizoologist” Newt Scamander.
Jude Law, Johnny Depp. PG-13, 134 mins. Director: David Yates.
A Star Is Born (2018) DRAMA
A musician helps a young singer find fame, even as age and alcoholism
send his own career into a downward spiral.
Lady Gaga, Sam Elliott. R, 136 mins. Director: Bradley Cooper.
Bad Times At The El Royale (2018) MYSTERY
Seven strangers, each with a secret to bury, meet at El Royale, a rundown
hotel with a dark past. Each will have a shot at redemption, but at what cost?
Jeff Bridges, Dakota Johnson. R, 141 mins. Director: Drew Goddard.
After watching the band, Smile, perform,
Farrokh Bulsara (Rami Malek) approaches
members Brian May (Gwilym Lee) and
Roger Taylor (Ben Hardy) about becoming
their new lead singer. They’re soon joined
by John Deacon (Joe Mazzello) and, a
year later, the band begins to generate a
following, and tour across England.
During one trip, their van breaks down,
leading Bulsara to suggest that they sell it
to fund their first album. Now going by the
name Queen, the band’s luck beings to
change as they land a contract with a
Meanwhile, Bulsara changes his name
legally to Freddie Mercury. It’s not long,
however, before cracks begin to show in the
band and in Freddie’s personal life. His
relationship with Mary Austin (Lucy
Boynton) starts to suffer because of a new
potential love interest.
Bohemian Rhapsody stars the formidable
talent Malek, whose performance was
critically acclaimed worldwide, winning a
Golden Globe, as well as a BAFTA and
Watch the highest-grossing musical biopic
of all time on board Kenya Airways today!
The Kindergarten Teacher (2018) DRAMA
A kindergarten teacher in New York becomes obsessed with one of her
students whom she believes is a child prodigy.
Gael García Bernal, Maggie Gyllenhaal. R, 95 mins. Director: Sara Colangelo.
Peppermint (2018) ACTION
Five years after her husband and daughter are killed in a senseless act of
violence, a woman comes back from self-imposed exile to seek revenge.
Jennifer Garner, John Ortiz. R, 99 mins. Director: Pierre Morel.
Justice League (2017) ACTION
Batman enlists newfound ally Wonder Woman to recruit a team to stand
against a catastrophic threat from a newly awakened enemy.
Gal Gadot, Jason Momoa. PG-13, 119 mins. Director: Zack Snyder.
PG-13, 134 mins. Director: Bryan Singer
Did you know
~ For his role as Freddie Mercury, Rami Malek was fitted with special
prosthetic teeth to recreate Mercury’s prominent overbite. After
filming wrapped, Malek kept the teeth as a memento from the shoot,
eventually having them cast in gold.
The Sisters Brothers (2018) ADVENTURE
In 1850s Oregon, a gold prospector is chased by the infamous duo of assassins,
the Sisters brothers.
Joaquin Phoenix, Jake Gyllenhaal. R, 121 mins. Director: Jacques Audiard.
Can You Ever Forgive Me? (2018) BIOPIC
When Lee Israel is no longer able to get published because she has fallen
out of step with current tastes, she turns her art form to deception.
Melissa McCarthy, Richard E. Grant. R, 106 mins. Director: Marielle Heller.
A Private War (2018) BIOPIC
Celebrated war correspondent Marie Colvin is driven to the frontline of
conflicts across the globe to give voice to the voiceless.
Rosamund Pike, Jamie Dornan. R, 110 mins. Director: Matthew Heineman.
68 / ENTERTAINMENT
ENTERTAINMENT / 69
A young yeti finds something he thought didn’t exist, a human. News of this
“smallfoot” quickly spreads to the simple yeti community.
Channing Tatum. PG, 96 mins. Directors: Karey Kirkpatrick, Jason Reisig.
The Lego Ninjago Movie (2017)
The battle for Ninjago City calls to action Green Ninja Lloyd, along with his
friends, who are all secret ninja warriors.
Jackie Chan. PG, 101 mins. Directors: Charlie Bean, Paul Fisher.
We’ve selected the best of current African cinema,
including drama and comedy.
Breaking Rules (2018) DRAMA
Martins and Vivian fall captive to their emotions, laying down their guards
as they begin a relationship. This leads to a series of events that will
define them forever.
Seun Akindele, Yvonne Jegede Fawole, Olakunle Fawole. PG-13, 102
mins. Director: Biodun Stephen.
The Village (2018) DRAMA
An old family rivarly over a land dispute becomes a hindrance between
John and Olanna. But an act of love in the face of danger might put an end
to the dispute.
Cassandra Odita, Emma Ayalogu, Eddie Watson. PG-13, 137 mins.
Director: Akin-Tijani Balogun.
My Story (2018) DRAMA
A civil engineer supervising a building in a village takes a liking to a poor
boy. Things take an interesting turn when the engineer takes the boy with
him to the city.
Zubby Michael, Offiafuluagu Mbaka, Chizzy Alichi. R, 134 mins. Director:
Wet (2018) ROMANCE
A successful career woman, who has been jilted by many men, falls in love
with her assistant.
Ruth Kadiri, Fred Peters. R, 94 mins. Director: Emmanuel Mang Eme.
Although Storks now deliver packages, when an order for a baby appears,
the best delivery stork must scamble to fix the error by delivering the baby.
Katie Crown. PG, 87 mins. Directors: Nicholas Stoller, Doug Sweetland.
Rio 2 (2014)
It’s a jungle out there for Blu, Jewel and their three kids after they’re hurtled
from Rio de Janeiro to the wilds of the Amazon.
Jesse Eisenberg, Anne Hathaway. G, 100 mins. Director: Carlos Saldanha.
Ehi’s Bitters (2018) DRAMA
It is said that time heals all wounds, but the same cannot be said for
Ehisoje. Can she find her way through all the chaos?
Deyemi Okanlawon, Joshua Richards, Enado Odigie. PG-13, 115 mins.
Director: Biodun Stephen.
Dear Mummy B (2018) DRAMA
A single mother’s advice to her daughter’s friend goes viral on the
Internet, bringing with it fame and fortune. It also places a strain on their
Ada Ameh, Ijeoma Grace Agu. R, 100 mins. Director: Tope Oshin.
Baby Palaver (2018) DRAMA
For a girl who had shut out love for a long time, one and a half men is too
much to let in all at once.
Desmond Elliot, Unche Jombo Rodriguez, Selassie Ibrahim. PG-13, 85
mins. Director: Desmond Elliot.
Cooked Up Love (2018) ROMANCE
A combination of good looks, charisma and finesse makes Chef Abbey’s TV
show the toast of the cooking community. A twist on the show results in an
unlikely reunion with his ex.
Enado Odigie, Bimbo Ademoye. R, 98 mins. Director: Desmond Elliot.
Legend Of The Guardians: The Owls Of Ga’hoole (2010)
When a young owl is abducted by an evil owl army, he must escape with his
newfound friends and seek the legendary Guardians to stop the menace.
Jim Sturgess, Hugo Weaving. PG, 100 mins. Director: Zack Snyder.
Fantastic Mr. Fox (2009)
An urbane fox cannot resist returning to his farm-raiding, which leads him
to help his community survive the farmers’ retaliation.
Meryl Streep, Bill Murray. PG, 86 mins. Director: Wes Anderson.
70 / ENTERTAINMENT
ENTERTAINMENT / 71
Music Channel Explained: The Channel number for
your favourite music programmes is shown at the end
of each description. It’s determined by the aircraft type,
so you will need to know what type of aircraft you’re on.
Please check the safety card in front of you.
In this month’s spotlight we experience
the epic duo Daryl Hall &
The American pop rock duo shot to
fame in the late 1970s and early 1980s.
They have sold an estimated 40 million
records. Hall & Oates’ hits include: Rich
Girl, Kiss on My List, Private Eyes, I
Can’t Go for That (No Can Do),
Maneater and Out of Touch.
KQ Radio (with guest DJ)
Our guest DJs bring you some of Kenya’s biggest
hits. B737 CH. 3
Magic River 2 Broke Girls The 100
We’ve selected the best TV comedies, drama, sports
and lifestyle programmes for your entertainment.
Fresh Off The Boat, Season 3, Episodes 3 & 4: A Taiwanese family makes
their way in the US during the 1990s.
2 Broke Girls, Season 6, Episodes 20 & 21: Two young women waitressing
at a diner strike up an unlikely friendship in the hopes of launching a business;
if only they can raise the cash.
The Middle, Season 9, Episodes 6 & 8: The daily mishaps of a married
woman and her semi-dysfunctional family, and their attempts to survive life
in general in the town of Orson, Indiana.
Speechless, Season 1, Episodes 3 & 4: The family of a special-needs teen
is good at dealing with the challenges he faces, and creating new ones.
Dream Teams, Season 1, Episodes 3 & 20: The series that selects the
“ultimate” teams across clubs, nations and eras; often with contentious
The Immortals, Season 1, Episode 6: The careers of sport’s greatest icons
are celebrated in this stunning 52-part series.
Gillette World Sport, Season 1, Episode 9: A look at sports around the world.
Magic River: Running rivers and singing birds, this film will help take you
away with pleasant sensory experiences.
Made in Kenya, Season 1, Episode 1: Made In Kenya is a five-minute
info-tainment television show, which features the production processes that
go into creating Kenya’s finest consumer goods and unique services.
Science of Stupid, Season 3, Episode 1: The show that combines cold hard
science with some of the craziest, most spectacular and painful user-generated
clips ever recorded is back for a third season.
Big Problems/Big Thinkers, Season 1, Episode 1: This show features
acclaimed journalist Terre Blair interviewing an extraordinary group of leaders
to find solutions to some of the most urgent challenges facing humanity.
Beyond Innovation, Season 1, Episode 1: Beyond Innovation uncovers the
world’s new and emerging technologies that are changing the way we live
and do business.
One To One, Season 1, Episode 1: In-depth, hard-hitting interviews with
newsworthy personalities who have had a profound influence on African affairs.
Arrow, Season 6, Episodes 1, 2, 3 & 4: Billionaire playboy Oliver Queen is
missing and presumed dead when his yacht is lost at sea. He returns five
years later a changed man, determined to clean up the city as a hooded
vigilante armed with a bow.
The X-Files, Season 11, Episodes 3 & 4: Two F.B.I. Agents, Fox Mulder the
believer and Dana Scully the sceptic, investigate the strange and unexplained,
while hidden forces work to impede their efforts.
The 100, Season 5, Episodes 1 & 2: Set 97 years after a nuclear war has
destroyed civilisation, a spaceship housing humanity’s survivors sends 100
juvenile delinquents back to Earth, in hope of repopulating it.
The best tunes from classic African artists, from
Davido to DJ Maphorisa. B737 CH. 4
With stunning tracks from Van Morrison to Billie
Holiday, this highly diverse collection is a mustlisten
for the discerning jazz fan. B737 CH. 7
The biggest pop hits of the moment, with catchy
favourites from Noah Cyrus and many more.
B737 CH. 8
Enjoy a fusion of dancehall and reggae sounds,
featuring a range of diverse artists such as Ziggy
Marley and Prince Buster. B737 CH. 6
Sit back and relax to the awe-inspiring
compositions of Martin Stadtfeld or Lang Lang
in this classical collection. B737 CH. 5
Unwind and take it easy with some laid-back
sounds from Frank Sinatra, Céline Dion and
many more. B737 CH. 10
Rock out to rock classics from David Bowie, The
Kinks, Bruce Springsteen and many more. B787
“Our new single, ‘Maneater’,
isn’t something that sounds like
anything else on the radio. The idea
is to make things better”
– Daryl Hall in an interview with NME –
72 / ENTERTAINMENT
Film and TV
The Ones to Watch
These are the most popular films from our selection.
If you’ve already seen these, take your pick
from this season’s selection of 35 family and kids’ films.
The Looney Tunes Show
An updated iteration of the classic
Looney Tunes characters focusing
on their satirical misadventures
living in suburbia.
Season 2, Episode 3
Justice League Action
Batman, Superman and Wonder
Woman lead the DC Super Heroes
against their most infamous foes.
Season 1, Episodes 6 & 7
The misadventures of a futuristic
Season 1, Episode 12
Beware the Batman
Batman, a crime-fighting vigilante
of Gotham City, goes up against the
Season 1, Episode 1
Animaniacs is a US animated
comedy television series created
by Tom Ruegger.
An ensemble cast of off-the-wall Warner
Bros. characters, appearing in a wide
variety of roles. Mainly starring the
Warner Siblings Wakko, Yakko and Dot,
who were created by the Warner Bros.
Studios but found they were just too
“zany” to be of any use to the studio.
Season 1, Episode 40
SAFARI NJEMA / 75
The ARK at JFK International
Airport is the first full-service
animal health and reception
terminal in the US.
✈ To book flights to New York go
See More of Europe
Kenya Airways offers more choice and benefits
for travellers on its Africa-Europe routes, which
include new destinations, such as Athens, Milan,
Geneva and Rome.
Evan Wise on Unsplash
KQ launched a carbon
offset programme in
2011, the first African
airline to do so.
SAFARI NJEMA / 77
✈ Kenya Airways’ Dreamliner aircraft
has dimmable windows, rather than
Kenya Airways has signed a broad codeshare
agreement with Italian airline, Alitalia.
This new commercial partnership is expected to increase
business travel and tourism between Kenya and Italy, giving
tourists and businessmen more travel options and better
flight schedules when travelling to Europe and Central- and
Southern Africa, through the airlines’ hubs in Nairobi and
Courtesy of the codeshare agreement, customers can fly
seamlessly to their desired destination with a single “unique”
ticket, checking-in at the airport of departure and collecting
their checked-through baggage at the end of their trip at the
Besides the new codeshare services and convenient flight
connections, Kenya Airways and Alitalia customers will have
the opportunity to earn and redeem miles on the entire network
operated by both airlines.
Thanks to the codeshare agreement, Alitalia will apply its
“AZ” code on many services operated by Kenya Airways
beyond Nairobi to Mombasa and Kisumu in Kenya, as well
as a further 19 African destinations, namely: Abidjan (Côte
d’Ivoire); Accra (Ghana); Addis Ababa (Ethiopia); Antananarivo
(Madagascar); Brazzaville (Republic of the Congo);
Dar es Salaam, Kilimanjaro and Zanzibar (Tanzania);
Douala (Cameroon); Johannesburg (South Africa); Kigali
(Rwanda); Khartoum (Sudan); Kinshasa and Lubumbashi
(Democratic Republic of the Congo); Lagos (Nigeria);
Maputo and Nampula (Mozambique); Moroni-Hahaya
(Comoros); and the Seychelles.
Similarly, Kenya Airways will expand its international services
by placing its “KQ” flight code on Alitalia’s flights from Rome
to 16 Italian domestic destinations (Brindisi, Bologna, Bari,
Catania, Florence, Genoa, Lamezia Terme, Milan Malpensa,
Naples, Palermo, Pisa, Reggio Calabria, Turin, Trieste, Venice
and Verona) and to 9 international destinations (Athens,
Barcelona, Casablanca, Geneva, Larnaca, Madrid, Malaga,
Malta and Valencia).
From 12 June, Kenya Airways will inaugurate its four-flightsper-week
service between Nairobi’s Jomo Kenyatta International
Airport and Rome-Fiumicino International Airport.
The domestic Italian desinations will also become available at
that time. Kenya Airways other codeshare flights became
available for sale on 14 March.
China Office Moved in Beijing
Having relocated its office to new premises in Beijing, Kenya
Airways is now operating a direct sales office in China.
This is another new milestone for the airline.
“China is one of the biggest markets we have built over the
years, and our new office will strengthen business relationships
and contribute towards sustainable development of
Africa which is in line with our core purpose as a company,”
said Chris Wang, Area Manager Asia Pacific.
The new Beijing office is now located at Unit No.903A of
Building A, Phoenix Place, No.5 ShuGuang XiLi, ChaoYang
District in Beijing. The new contact details are: tel. +86-10-
64687599, and email: email@example.com.
The launch of the office was graced by Education Counsellor,
Embassy of the Republic of Kenya Reuben A.P. Kipturgo;
guests from Sino-African Chamber of Commerce; the China
representative of Kenya Tourism Bureau; Travel Sky; ticketing
agents in northern China; travel agencies; and corporates.
Indeed, besides being a target market for the tourism industry,
China has emerged as a key trading partner for African
“Our new office
in Beijing will
― Chris Wang ―
Area Manager Asia Pacific, Kenya Airways
78 / SAFARI NJEMA
Want to know the carbon
emission of your flight?
and click on the
✈ Kenya Airways now flies to
the Seychelles more often, with
seven direct flights each week.
National Carrier Kenya Airways has activated a
codeshare with Delta Airlines that will enable
seamless travel in the US and Canada.
Sergei Akulich on Unsplash
Business and leisure travelers will soon
be able to enjoy greater connectivity
and efficiency in 11 US cities and 4
Canadian cities (Canadian Government
The arrangement means that travellers
using the direct flight from Nairobi can
connect in New York to other cities
within the US and Canada; opening
many more opportunities at highly
“As part of our commitment to the
New York route, we are proud to be a
part of this partnership that will open
up opportunities for our customers to
access more destinations in North
America through the John F. Kennedy
Airport,” said Group Managing Director
and CEO Kenya Airways Sebastian
According to Mikosz, the New York
route continues to be a strategic service
for Kenya Airways as it gears up for
Summer 2019 high season in the US.
Beginning June, Kenya Airways will be
looking to increase its frequency to
New York from 5 to 7 days a week.
The codeshare agreement is also in line
with Kenya Airways’ broader strategy
to assert its presence and expand connectivity
across Africa, while increasing
tourism, trade and investment.
In October 2018, Kenya Airways
launched its direct flights between
Nairobi and New York. This new route,
a first of it’s kind for East Africa, has
already led to an abundance of business
and leisure opportunities.
80 / SAFARI NJEMA
SAFARI NJEMA / 81
Want to know the carbon
emission of your flight?
and click on the
✈ Kenya Airways is working
with USAID to prevent the trafficking
of endangered species..
How many Miles did you
earn while flying to your
current destination? Find out
online with the Flying Blue
✈ There are new discounted reward
tickets, or Promo Awards, available
every month, saving you up
to 50 percent on Reward Miles.
The Route to Rome
On 28 March, Kenya Airways hosted a stakeholder forum with
the Italian business community at the Italian Ambassador to
Kenya H.E. Mauro Massoni’s residence. The main purpose of
the forum was to understand the issues that are important to the
Italian business community as the airline evolves its strategy to
better meet expectations, while identifying market opportunities.
The first round table was moderated by the Italian Ambassador
and the Chief Commercial Officer Kenya Airways Ursula
Silling. Also present from the airline were Area Manager Kenya
Rose Kiseli and Area Manager East Africa (JV) & North Africa
Albert Abwoga who gave an elaborate product presentation to
the stakeholders. The meeting drew representation from the
business community, leaders from the missionaries and religious
groups, and the infrastructure, tourism and energy sectors.
When Kenya Airways’ new Rome route opens on 12 June, the
Italian capital will be the most southerly entry point for the
airline into Europe and will tap once more into the lucrative
Italian holiday market.
“The Pride of Africa
flies to 53 destinations
Wildlife Works, Kenya Airways’ carbon-offsetting
partner, has been working with communities living in
the Kasigau Corridor in Tsavo to address challenges
and improve food security in the region.
With conventional agriculture being the leading source of
livelihoods here, farmers often have little to smile about due to
ever-changing weather patterns.
Through its greenhouse department, Wildlife Works has been
hosting various women’s groups in the project area to teach
them about environmentally friendly agricultural practices.
Every week different women’s groups are provided with training
on organic farming methods, drought resistant crops,
crop rotation and vertical farming. These practices are aimed
at using less space and less water while reducing reliance on
fertilisers, and producing better yields.
After the training, the women will use these techniques in
their homesteads and teach them other women's groups. This
will in turn provide them with alternative economic activities.
Empowering women with improved agricultural techniques is
helping them to take a step towards eradicating poverty and
hunger in their communities.
The Flying Blue frequent flyer programme allows you to earn
Miles for every flight you take with Kenya Airways, Air France,
KLM, Joon, HOP!, Transavia, Aircalin, TAROM, SkyTeam
members, or other airline partners. You can redeem your Miles
to fly with Kenya Airways or upgrade your seats to Business
There are four membership levels in Flying Blue, and with each qualifying
flight you take, you gain XP (Experience Points). When you first enrol,
you will be awarded Explorer status, which progresses to Silver, Gold and
ultimately Platinum. The more you travel with Kenya Airways or one of
our partner airlines, the higher your level becomes, which results in you
earning more Miles and enjoying more benefits.
Miles can be redeemed for flights to destinations operated by Kenya
Airways or our partner airlines. Go for an upgrade of your seat or pay
for your hotel stay or car rental with Miles. Your accumulated Miles are
valid for life as long as you take an eligible flight at least once every two
years. The total number of Miles credited to your account on Kenya Airways-marketed
flights is based on distance, the booking class earning
percentage, and the Elite bonus earning percentage, if applicable.
~ Enrol now and start to enjoy the benefits Flying Blue has to offer.
Go to flyingblue.com for more information and to sign up.
Reward Miles can be redeemed for a flight to
any Kenya Airways destination or an upgrade to
Your choice of destination determines the
number of Miles required for your Reward ticket.
Log on to flyingblue.com to check if you have
sufficient Miles for your choice. It is advisable
to have flexible date options in case your initial
choice is not available.
Once you have made your choice, you can
redeem your Reward Miles by two methods:
A. Call the Kenya Airways contact centre in Nairobi
on +254 20 327 4747; +254 734 104747
or +254 711 024747.
B. Visit kenya-airways.com and go to Loyalty Program,
Flying Blue, Earn and Spend.
For further information, you can always contact us at
Reward Miles do not cover tax charges. These
will need to be paid for separately and this can be
done so via credit card, M-Pesa or a cash payment
at any Kenya Airways office.
Easy Does It
Five steps to make
the most of your Miles.
Once payment has been received, your e-ticket
will be sent to you by email.
~ Reward tickets are subject to seat availability. The
number of Miles required varies depending on available
― Sebastian Mikosz ―
Group Managing Director and
CEO Kenya Airways
~ Offset your carbon With your KQ flight you can help to protect
the environment. Simply tick a box when booking to offset carbon
emissions per journey. Funds go to initiatives in conjunction with
Wildlife Works. Visit wildlifeworks.com to find out more.
~ Miles can be used for flights and for upgrades to
Business Class when you have already purchased
an Economy Class Kenya Airways ticket on
Y,B,M,U,K,H,L,Q,T,R,N & V classes for all routes. All
upgrades are subject to seat availability in Business Class.
SAFARI NJEMA / 83
SkyTeam operates more than
17,000 departures a day to 1,080+
destinations in 170+ countries,
and offers SkyTeam members 750
lounges in airports worldwide.
✈ Founded in June 2000, SkyTeam is a
major airline alliance that consists of 19
carriers from 5 continents.
SkyTeam City insider
Explore The World
Like a Local
When it comes to exploring a new city, there’s only so far a guidebook can
take you. Flight attendants from SkyTeam’s 19 member airlines are some of
the most-travelled people on the planet; so who better to ask for travel tips?
“Riding a bike is the quintessential
Dutch experience. Cycle around
Rotterdam and check out the amazing
architecture that gives it the
nickname, Manhattan on the Maas”
KLM, Juliet, Amsterdam
“Visit the Karen Blixen Museum, home of the
Danish author who wrote the book: Out of
Africa. Just outside Nairobi, it offers a fascinating
look at the life of the literary legend”
Kenya Airways, Clara, Nairobi
“I love hanging out at Cong
Cafe Phan Xich Long. It’s a
simple, rustic place with
good food and strong coffee”
Vietnam Airlines, Selena, Ho Chi
“Chantilly, the horse racing
capital of France, is a 25-minute
train ride from Paris. Visit
the prestigious racecourse and
its extraordinary castle”
Air France, Sophie, Paris
For more travel inspiration visit skyteam.com or find us on
84 / SAFARI NJEMA
SAFARI NJEMA / 85
Kenya Airways Fleet
will begin flying
to Rome (Italy) and
from Nairobi’s Jomo
Airport in June.
Boeing 787 Dreamliner
Aircraft 7; Seats Economy 204, Premier 30; Crew 14;
Seat pitch Economy 32”; Premier 75”; Max. take-off weight
227,930kg; Fuel capacity 126,903 litres; Range 14,500km;
Typical cruising speed at 35,000ft Mach 0.85; Thrust per
engine at sea level 69,800lbs; Wing span 60.1m; Length
56.7m; Interior cabin width 5.49m
Dar es Salaam
Aircraft 8; Seats Economy 129, Premier 16; Crew 8;
Seat pitch Economy 32”, Premier 47”; Max. take-off weight
79,015kg; Fuel capacity 26,020 litres; Range 5,665km; Typical
cruising speed at 35,000ft Mach 0.78; Thrust per engine at
sea level 26,400lbs; Wing span 34.3m; Length 39.5m;
Interior cabin width 3.53m
Aircraft 2; Seats Economy 100, Premier 16; Crew 7;
Seat pitch Economy 32”, Premier 40”; Max. take-off weight
70,080kg; Fuel capacity 26,020 litres; Range 6,225km;
Typical cruising speed at 35,000ft Mach 0.785;
Thrust per engine at sea level 26,400lbs; Wing span 34.3m;
Length 33.6m; Interior cabin width 3.53m
Chantal van Wessel/Vizualism
Aircraft 15; Seats Economy 84, Premier 12; Crew 7;
Seat pitch Economy 31”, Premier 38”; Max. take-off weight
51,800kg; Fuel capacity 16,153 litres; Range 2,935km;
Typical cruising speed at 35,000ft Mach 0.82; Thrust per
engine at sea level 20,000lbs; Wing span 28.72m;
Length 36.24m; Interior cabin width 2.74m
86 / SAFARI NJEMA
SAFARI NJEMA / 87
The Nairobi National Park
stopover package allows guests
travelling on flight KQ101 from
London Heathrow to enjoy a
wildlife tour during their transit.
Welcome to Kenya
✈ Passengers travelling in
a group of at least ten
(economy cabin) or five
(business cabin), can
request for a group fare.
SUD A N
E T HIOPIA
TO THE CITY
Jomo Kenyatta International Airport is about a 30-minute drive away
from Nairobi city. Moi International Airport, Mombasa is a 20-minute
drive to Mombasa city. More time is needed during rush hour.
Most visitors to Kenya require a visa. Multiple and single entry visas are
available. You can apply at any Kenya High Commission or Embassy
prior to travelling. The single entry visa (obtainable upon arrival at the
airport) is US$50 (correct at time of print) or the equivalent in local currency.
You will also require a passport that is valid for three months from
the moment of entry.
Dial 999. Note that
ambulance services are
mostly private. Services
include: St Johns
Ambulance +254 72 161
1555 or Kenya Red
+254 71 771 4938.
Nairobi and Mombasa
have good hospitals.
Make sure you have
adequate travel health
insurance and accessible
funds to cover the cost of
any medical treatment.
treatments will have to
be paid for at the time,
and the costs claimed
240 volts AC, using
It is advisable not to walk
alone in isolated areas
in towns or on beaches,
particularly after dark.
Tips are appreciated. Most
hotels/restaurants add a
10 percent service charge.
It is wise to drink or use
only boiled or bottled water,
and to avoid ice in drinks.
Traffic adheres to the lefthand
side of the road, and
most cars are right-hand
drive. A current driving
licence with photograph is
accepted for up to a threemonth
Nairobi is the only city with
an effective municipal bus
What & How
service. Local (private)
matatus are the main
means of getting around.
Taxi service Uber operates
in Nairobi and Mombasa.
Taking photographs of
official buildings, including
embassies, can lead to
detention. Photography is
also prohibited at airports.
Embassies & consulates
All embassies are
located in Nairobi.
You must carry a valid form
of ID with you at all times.
Open 8 a.m. to 5 p.m.,
Mondays to Fridays; and 9
a.m. to 12 noon Saturdays.
Phone cards may be
bought from post offices
or international call
offices. Emails can be sent
from most hotels.
Kenyan shilling (KES)
There are no restrictions on
the movement of currency
into or out of Kenya for
Banks are generally open
from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.,
Mondays to Fridays;
and 9 a.m. to 12 noon
Saturdays. Banks in
coastal towns open
and close half an hour
earlier. Most ATMs accept
international VISA cards.
Visa and MasterCard are
Hotel bill payment
Pay in Kenyan shillings or
Most hotels also accept
UGA N D A
Songot 1755 m
LAKE BARING O
Lake Bogoria Isiolo
Mt Longonot 2777 m
Longonot National Park
Oi Donyo National Park
Chantal van Wessel
Mt Kulal 2285 m
OFFICES & AGENTS
Head Office Airport North Road, Embakasi
P.O. Box: 19002 – 00501 Nairobi, Kenya, Tel +254 (0)20 6422000,
Safaricom +254 0711 02 2000, Airtel +254 0734 10 2000
Contact Centre (24 hours) Tel +254 (0)20 3274747
Safaricom +254 0711 02 4747, Airtel +254 0734 10 4747
JKIA Sales Office Terminal 1C – International Departures
Tel +254 (0)20 6423506/8,
Terminal 1D – Domestic Departures Tel +254 (0)20 6423570
Baggage Services Tel +254 0737 33 3954
Mt Kilimanjaro 5895 m
Kisite Marine National Park
Kisite Marine National Park
SAFARI NJEMA / 89
From Kenya, with love
Say It With Flowers
text: Annemarie Hoeve image: Shutterstock
A symbol for love and eternal
beauty, the rose is arguably one
of the world’s most iconic flowers.
And if you’re lucky enough
to be gifted a bouquet, it’s likely
to have come from Kenya.
It is with great pride that Kenya is the
world’s third largest exporter of cut
flowers. The Eastern African nation is also
Europe’s biggest supplier of roses, with
most of the sustainably grown blooms
making their way to the Netherlands,
Britain and Germany. So how do they
get there? On board a KQ flight, of
As a result of the booming rose
sector – the country’s second largest
agricultural export behind tea – KQ
Cargo has established a cool-chain
infrastructure to ensure fresh delivery
of its prized roses. With a dedicated
terminal at Nairobi airport, Kenya is
a hub of flower-exporting activity.
Roses by numbers
120,000 tonnes of flowers are
exported by Kenya every year.
500,000 jobs are provided by the
Kenyan flower sector.
63 billion Kenya shillings
(US$616m) is the estimated worth
of Kenya’s floriculture trade.
90 / SAFARI NJEMA
KQ won the Best
Business Class in
Africa for five years
in a row from World
✈ KQ received an International
Safety Award in 2016 and 2017
from the British Safety Council.
What you need to know
Please watch the safety demonstration before
take-off and refer to the leaflet in your seat
pocket. Smoking is prohibited on all flights.
Electronic devices including laptops, tablets
and mobile phones may not be used during
take-off and landing.
Place hand luggage in the overhead storage
or beneath the seat in front of you. Cabin crew
will remove hand luggage from passengers
seated in exit rows for take-off and landing.
1 Get a good night’s sleep, eat a light
meal and take some gentle exercise
before your flight.
On The Move
Six top tips for a healthy and comfortable journey
2 Wear comfortable clothing and shoes.
3 Keep your circulation going by standing
up and walking in the aisle when
possible. Flex muscles in your feet, arms,
shoulders and neck.
4 Low cabin humidity on longer
journeys can cause dry eyes, nose and
throat. Remove contact lenses and apply
“To get lost is to
learn the way”
– African proverb –
moisturiser and lip balm. Avoid salt,
drink plenty of water and moderate
your intake of alcohol, tea and coffee.
5 When travelling across time zones
your body’s sleep rhythms can become
disrupted, leading to insomnia, loss of
appetite and fatigue. Try to give yourself
some time to adjust to new night and
day cycles when you arrive.
6 On arrival spend as much time as
possible outside. Sunlight helps your
body to adjust to a new time zone.
Ensure your seat is upright for take-off and
Baby-changing tables can be found in
selected toilets. The crew will help prepare
baby food. Cots are available on some flights.
A hot meal is normally served during longhaul
flights. Special-diet or vegetarian meals
are available when pre-ordered. There is a
courtesy inflight bar service for wine, beer,
spirits and soft drinks.
Seat-back entertainment featuring a range of
movies and music is available on our long- and
medium-haul flights. Please refer to the IFE
guide in Msafiri.
The aircraft climbs steeply immediately after
take-off. Shortly afterwards you will hear
a reduction in the engine sound, while the
aircraft continues to climb. All aircraft cabins
are pressurised. Due to a change in pressure
during take-off and landing, some passengers
may experience slight discomfort in their ears.
Relieve this by swallowing, yawning or pinching
the nostrils gently, while keeping lips sealed.
After touchdown you may hear an increase in
engine noise due to the reverse thrust applied
to assist braking. Remain seated until the
engines are off and the doors are open.