May Issue 2019

May 2019


“We decided to take you

on a journey across Italy’s

ancient capital city”

May 2019 edition 157

Gold Star

Ghana’s spectrum

of riches


Kenya’s Twin



to Take




Kenya Airways’ World

Travel Awards

• Winner Africa’s Leading Airline:

2016, 2017

• Winner Africa’s Leading Airline,

Business Class: 2013, 2014, 2015,

2016, 2017, 2018

• Winner Africa’s Leading Airline,

Economy Class: 2011, 2018

Dear guests,

Route expansion is a key part of our

growth plan, so we’re pleased that our

recent codeshare agreements with Italy’s

Alitalia, and Delta Air Lines in the US,

are increasing our global footprint. With

the Alitalia agreement, we’re able to offer

you more travel options and benefits in

Europe (16 Italian domestic destinations).

As we’re launching our newest routes to

Rome and Geneva on the 12th of June,

this couldn’t have come at a better time.

The agreement with Delta means that

Kenya Airways’ passengers can enjoy

seamless travel in the US and Canada

using our joint network in 11 US and 4

Canadian cities. I’m also happy to announce

that we’ll increase the frequency

of our flights between Nairobi and New

York to seven flights a week during the

summer months (high season) in the US.

Several other routes will also see increased


In preparation for the launch of our

Nairobi-Rome route, we decided to take

you on a journey across Italy’s ancient

capital city with our travel story this

month. You’ll discover the finest eateries,

the hippest districts and the Eternal City’s

abundance of ancient treasures. Starting

in the historical centre, you’ll see the Trevi

Fountain, which was made famous by the

1960 film, La Dolce Vita. After crossing

the Ponte Sisto bridge, you’ll experience

the Trastevere quarter, and after an ice

cream or two, you’ll arrive at the Vatican.

Before we launch our new route to Rome,

however, we have another major event to

celebrate: Mother’s Day. And with many

people around the world giving their

mums chocolates for Mother’s Day,

which takes place this month, we took the

opportunity to investigate the chocolate

industry. Our business story takes an

in-depth look at the production of this

popular delicacy, from the harvesting of

cocoa beans to the manufacture of the

chocolate itself. Importantly, we explore

fair trade, explaining what it is, how it

works and why it’s important to choose

fair trade chocolate.

Another highlight this month is our

people story, which looks at five African

comedians who are making people laugh

worldwide. Some of them are so successful

that they have their own TV shows or

have performed at venues that are usually

reserved for famous bands. Read these

comedians’ fascinating stories in these


Thank you for choosing Kenya Airways,

I wish you an enjoyable flight.

Sebastian Mikosz,

Group Managing Director and CEO

Image: Jeroen van Loon


Travel & Nature

10 Cherry on Top

Mount Lico in Mozambique

18 Travel Essentials

Packing for Rome

22 Gold Star

Ghana’s bit of everything

45 Geneva’s Gems

Travel tips

52 La Dolce Vita

Roaming through Rome



Arts & Culture

13 Habari

Kenya & the world

34 Comic Icons

Africa’s best comedians

44 Book Review

No Hard Feelings

58 Whale of a Time

Kenya’s Twin Migration

Publisher Kenya Airways | Head of Communications and Corporate Affairs Dennis Kashero Corporate Communications Executive Mercy Agnes Mwamba Advertising MediaEdge

Interactive Ltd. | Managing Director Esther Ngomeli Head of Media Rose Kagori Concept, Content & Production Hearst Create | Hearst Netherlands CEO Luc van Os Managing Editor Irene

Bauer Senior Designer Gaby Walther Subeditor Ben Clark Client Partner Inger Waijers Proofreader Julia Gorodecky Photo Editor Monique Kolmeijer Design Concept Sabine Verschueren

Production Manager Hans Koedijker Contributors Yvette Bax, Jackson Biko, Matteo Colombo, Emma van Egmond, Mark Eveleigh, Nicole Franzen, Sarah Haaij, Ken Kagicha, Joseph Maina,

Barbara Groen, Annemarie Hoeve, Annette Lavrijsen, Mary Quincy, Gijsje Ribbens, Jude Tundo, Eva de Vries, Chantal van Wessel/Vizualism, Hanna Wieslander, Ingrid K. Williams, Susan

Wright, Denise Zwijnen Lithography Ready4Print Printer Walstead CE, Kraków, Poland


Fly Guide

65 Highlights

Inflight entertainment guide

75 Safari Njema

News & service

81 Flying Blue News

83 SkyTeam News

84 Route Maps

89 Cargo

90 Get Comfortable




32 Aircraft Facts

The Taxiways

48 Hot Chocolate

Africa’s chocolate business

46 Angola

At a glance

40 Air Support

Africa’s airspace technology

Contact details Kenya Airways Marketing & Corporate Communications, Nairobi, Kenya, +254 20 642 2000, Website,

Facebook Kenya Airways Twitter @kenyaAirways Instagram @officialkenyaairways Mediaedge Interactive Ltd. Nairobi, Kenya, +254 20 420 5000 / +254 723 140187 / +254 734 271488,

msafiri@mediaedgeke.comHearst Magazines Netherlands BV, Spaklerweg 52, 1114 AE Amsterdam, the Netherlands +31 20 7943500, Website

No part of the contents may be reproduced without prior written permission. While every care is taken to ensure accuracy in preparing the magazine, the publisher and Kenya Airways assume

no responsibility for mistakes and effects arising therefrom. The publisher has made every effort to arrange copyright in according with existing legislation. Msafiri is available on all KQ flights

and at select hotels and businesses in Nairobi. A digital copy is available for free at


10 / NATURE / Views



on Top

In 2012, a conservation

scientist discovered the


on top of a mountain

in Mozambique. The

gauntlet had been laid

for an intrepid research


text Ben Clark

SHEER ROCK walls of up to 700

metres had kept the rainforest adorning

Mount Lico – an inselberg – seemingly

out of humanity’s reach. But, six years

after he had found it using Google Earth,

Dr Julian Bayliss led a team of more than

20 fearless researchers on an expedition

to discover Mount Lico’s secret garden.

While looking at satellite images,

Bayliss saw that, unlike the heavily

farmed area around it, the rainforest on

top of the inselberg looked undisturbed.

And that’s how the researchers found it

when they finally arrived having scaled

Mount Lico with rudimentary climbing

equipment: the only evidence of human

disturbance was a collection of ceremonial

pots upturned near a water source.

According to Bayliss, the locals had no

record of anyone visiting the top of

Mount Lico. It remains a mystery how

the man-made pots got there.

As they studied the rainforest’s fauna,

the team discovered a new species of

butterfly, frog and crab; and more new

species are expected as the scientists await

the detailed results of their research.

Kenya Airways flies four times a week to

Maputo International Airport from Nairobi’s

Jomo Kenyatta International Airport.

Julian Bayliss,


There are 95 UNESCO

World Heritage

properties in Africa.

The Great Pyramid of

Giza is one of the most

famous structures

among them.



The body can lose up to 1.5 litres

of water during a 3-hour flight.


Mixed Media

Ivorian photographer and visual

artist, Joana Choumali, is known

for her conceptual portraits,

documentaries and mixed-media

work. This fascinating image is

just one example of her unique

use of colour and texture. Her

work allows her to expand her

conceptions of the world by

exploring identity and challenging

her own assumptions.

~ Instagram: @joana_choumali



Pilots and copilots are

required to eat different

meals in case of food



Madagascar is the fourth-largest

island on Earth.

The average outside

temperature during

a flight is -54˚C.

What’s On

Liberia was established on

land acquired for freed US

slaves in the 1820s.


Lava Latte


Running with Lions

Nature trails

Karura Forest

Maybe you’re in the city for a

while and you want to find a

place to walk or run away

from pavements and hooting

vehicles. Here you’ll find running

trails, cycling trails and

dog-on-a-leash trails. The

trails run under canopies of

indigenous trees, past caves

and waterfalls. There are hundreds

of species of birds and a

number of mammals. There is

silence except for the sound of

runners’ feet, a bicycle zipping

past or someone giggling as

their dog pulls them on a

leash. And there is the River

Cafe, if you want rest after.


For the longest time, there wasn’t much happening in this small

complex by the State House. Now it’s a hole-in-the-wall café

with great food. They feature local dishes, done with fresh ingredients,

that are twisted playfully to match the personality of the

café itself. The owners are young millennials whose enthusiasm

to create a brand that matches their temperament comes

through. You’ll find lots of live music here on Sundays. Alcohol

is also served.


Day out

Nairobi Snake Park

This snake park was opened as a centre for snake study before

it was transformed into a shelter for rescued reptiles and amphibians.

It’s also a place for researchers, conservationalists

and educators. Here you’ll find Egyptian cobra, puff adders,

Gaboon vipers, giant snails, baboon spiders, crayfish, freshwater

prawns, amphibians, reptiles, birds and mammals.




Beer and food

Brew Bistro

& Lounge

This place calls itself “a

feast for the five senses”

and it’s appropriate. Part

of the Big Five Breweries,

the Brew Bistro & Lounge,

in Piedmont Plaza (Ngong

Road), provides fine dining

at its finest in a striking

setting. Here you can also

taste the excellent range

of craft beer, which the

company makes locally.


“No matter

where you’re


your dreams

are valid”

– Lupita Nyong’o –


Nairobi page text: Jackson Biko

Habari text: Eva de Vries


Sunny Dolat

The Nest Collective is a

Nairobi-based multidisciplinary

art group for film,

music, fashion, visual arts

and literature. Sunny

Dolat is the cofounder.

What message do you want to


Our work always reflects a

root question, a “what if?” or

a “why does?”, that reimagines

our pasts, presents and

futures, but also our African

identity and the intersections

of that with feminism, race

and sexuality.

The Nest Collective has created

many different things. What are

you most proud of?

We’re proud of all our babies

for different reasons. Each of

them has blessed us, taught us

and challenged us to grow and

learn in different technical

and intellectual ways, while

opening up new audiences,

conversations and even


But is there one product that

sticks out?

I have a soft spot for our

fashion book, Not African

Enough, which explores

evolving aesthetics and

thinking in Kenyan fashion.

What is your advice for aspiring

(creative) entrepreneurs?

Be kind to yourself!

~ @sunnydolat,


Functional Sculptures

Lani Adeoye, the lady behind the brand,

Studio-Lani, is a strong believer in the

power of design to solve problems and

empower communities. Blurring the lines

between art and design, she creates

unique functional sculptures that range

from lamps to sidetables.



Dancing in The Desert

Looking for something out of the ordinary?

Head north and join this festival on the shores

of breathtaking Lake Turkana. Visitors can

expect amazing performances and cultural

traditions from 14 ethnic communities,

featuring costumes, art, dance and music.

~ 28-30 June,

This thrilling marathon route takes runners

through the South African habitats of the Big Five:

elephants, rhinos, buffalo, lions and leopards. There

are no fences along the way, so let’s just say that

some runners might end up beating their personal


~ 22 June,


Wear African

This year’s Dakar Fashion

Week – the brainchild of

Senegalese designer Adama

N’diaye – will once again host

around 30 talented African

designers from several countries,

such as Mozambique,

Mali and Nigeria. The event

aims to build upon the

growing “wear African”


~ 20-24 June,

Albatros Adventure Marathons



Nigeria’s nickname is the

Giant of Africa due to its size

and the diversity of its people.


South Africa is home to the longest

continuous wine route in the world, which

stretches from the Cape Winelands to

the Klein Karoo.

In Kenya, hunting any protected

animal is a crime.

Arts & Culture

The world’s largest frog, the

goliath frog, lives in Cameroon

and Equatorial Guinea, and can

grow up to 32 cm in length.


360° Beauty


Playful Loveseat

Located on Kenya’s serene Watamu Beach and built high among

the treetops, the Watamu Treehouse is an architectural delight.

Guests can expect 360-degree views over the Kenyan coastline

and surrounding lush forests. This beautiful hotel offers relaxing

activities, such as spa treatments, massages and yoga classes.

Those looking for adventure can explore the area by kayak, paddle

board or dhow. Oh, and the food is amazing!


Jackson Biko



The winner of this year’s design contest, organised by Design

Indaba, is the “Interdependence Bench II”: a love seat with a

twist, literally. The playful furniture piece, by design duo Phillip

Hollander and Stephen Wilson, can now proudly call itself

the most beautiful object in South Africa.


Three weeks ago, an acquaintance sent me a WhatsApp

message telling me that she “made the mistake” of taking an

old issue of Msafiri home. Subsequently, her two daughters

(aged 10 and 8) read one of my columns. They loved it so

much that they begged her to procure more magazines. So, as

a dutiful mother, she has been collecting back issues of Msafiri

and taking them home to her daughters; and they devour

them like ravenous literary critics before screaming, “More!

More! We want more Biko!” (A bit of an exaggeration here on

my part.) Then my acquaintance made another “mistake”: she

told them that she knew me, so they started asking her all

manner of questions about me. They enquired as to whether

I’m as powerful in person as I sound on paper, if I have a

“Have they not studied

as hard as they can

and not worn their

nighties inside out?”

proper beard, and if (indeed) I can make fire by rubbing two

sticks together; you know, the usual questions children ask.

They love words and they love to read, and she hopes that one

day they will say that a small column in an inflight magazine

set them on the path to becoming celebrated authors.

Because mothers can be manipulative and crafty, she now

uses me as a disciplinary tool. If they don’t make their beds,

she tells them, “Imagine what would happen if Biko walked in

here unexpectedly and found your beds untidy like this.” So

they make their beds. Or, if they don’t want to wrap up warmly

before leaving the house, she asks them, “When your nose

starts running and Biko comes visiting, will you converse with

a messy nose?” So they wear warm clothes. I love it. It’s great

for my ego. One day they asked if I might one day write about

them in the magazine for “important people who fly in the

aircraft to read”? And she said that if they behave – and make

their beds, clear the table and do their homework – she would

ask me. They also asked if they would become famous if I

wrote about them. I wonder. I hope so.

What good is an airline magazine if it can’t make a couple

of dutiful girls famous? What’s the point of printing it if these

girls can’t keep this copy forever, and one day remember how

it felt to have their names read at 40,000 feet? What kind of

humans would we be if we denied these girls this opportunity?

Have they not made their beds, eaten their vegetables and

brushed their teeth? Have they not studied as hard as they can

and not worn their nighties inside out? Have they not been

good girls? Have they not done everything their mum asked of

them and more? They have. They absolutely have.

So, Neema Mosiara and Nina Midega: if you’re reading

this know that everybody in the aircraft has read about you.

You made them smile. You warmed their hearts. You made

them think of their children back home and the children they

have in their hearts. And you know what smiles do? Smiles

make the world a better place. I hope that you’re smiling as

you read this.

Illustration: Hannah Wieslander


Delicious Spirits

Located in Kigali, Rwanda, the

Land of a Thousand Hills, this

craft distillery produces five

different triple-distilled spirits.

It also has a nice restaurant.


Mountain bike race

1Zambia MTB

Riders participating in this

unique, three-day mountain

bike race compete in teams

of two and use GPS devices

to navigate over 250 km of

scenic terrain.

The course takes the participants

through rolling hills,

ancient forests and alongside

crystal-clear streams, all the

way to the finish line at the

mighty Zambezi River.

This year’s race will be held

from 31 May to 2 June.



The Brighter The Better

Stemming from her love for textiles, Cape Town-based founder

Tracy Rushmere wanted to create traditional African fabrics

with a more urban feel. The result is a bold, exuberant collection

of fabrics and products, such as caps and cushions with

catchy names, including “Jacki so Blue” and “Hooray for The



18 / TRAVEL / Essentials

SPQR, which is an acronym of “The

Senate and People of Rome”, is

inscribed on manhole covers all

over Rome.

Hardcover book Rome: Portrait of a City

by Giovanni Fanelli. Taschen, US$50.

Packing for Rome

Stonewashed raw

cotton canvas

shoulder bag

(fits one packet

of Barilla Penne

Rigate). A.P.C.,


Rome has two football teams that

play in Serie A, ltaly’s top division.

They are Roma and Lazio.

Viscose fluid

crepe dress, to

embrace your

inner Sophia

Loren. Arket,


Linen shirt. Emporio

Armani, US$204.

Acetate Cat-Eye

Sunglasses for an

Italian-movie-star look.

Prada, US$290.

Instant film


OneStep 2, for

party pictures

La Grande




Authentic Italian

deodorant stick that

smells citrusy and

fresh 75ml. Acqua di

Parma, US$49.

Mini hairbrush for

sleek, untangled,

Monica Bellucci-hair.

Less is More, US$10.

Canvas and

leather toiletry

bag. Lancel,


Stroll through Rome in style with

these Carina Canvas Wedge

Espadrilles. Castañer, US$141.

Selection: Gijsje Ribbens



The Ivory Trade

is Killing Kenya’s


Three years ago, a huge ivory stockpile

was set ablaze in Kenya. This fire, which

smouldered for days, was a clear indication

of Kenya’s stance on the ivory trade. Sadly,

this illegal business is still thriving, and it’s

decimating the elephant population.

Source: Kenya Wildlife Service; The East African Wild Life Society; Kevin Papai


he killing of elephants to

feed the illegal ivory trade

is out of control in Africa:

around 30,000 elephants

are poached each year from

the remaining continental

population of 400,000. If no

interventions are made, elephants could

be extinct in about a decade.

“Every day, we’re losing a little bit of our

heritage and a little bit of ourselves,”

says Kenya’s Cabinet Secretary for Tourism

& Wildlife Najib Balala. “We cannot

emphasize enough the urgency of now.

Yesterday was too late to abolish the

ivory trade. We need to stop it now.”

A majority of the countries with African

elephant populations all agree that the

species is in serious danger. More importantly,

they agree that, for this majestic

animal to be preserved, all existing legal

ivory markets – principally in Europe and

Japan – need to be shut down.

The math is simple: existing markets

thousands of miles away from these

gentle giants’ natural habitats directly

encourage elephant poaching.

“We must rise to the higher calling of

becoming the generation that stood firm

in the face of powerful market forces to

say no to the ivory trade,” says Balala.

Data shows that the war to protect the

globe’s endangered species can be won.

The only measure that has worked to

curb poaching and ivory trafficking was

listing all African elephants in the UN’s

Convention on International Trade in

Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and

Flora (CITES) Appendix I in 1989. This

measure was, however, later relaxed

with CITES Appendix II to allow one–off

sales of ivory, which led to a significant

increase in elephant poaching. Yet, there

seems to be little urgency from some

countries that have the power to make

a difference.

“To assume – as many EU member

states do – that there’s no link between

domestic ivory markets in Europe and

Asia and...the killing of elephants in Africa

is a flawed basis on which to develop EU

conservation policy,” says Balala.

The Cabinet Secretary insists that the

People’s Republic of China and a number

of other countries - with significant legal

markets - have realised that there is a

clear link between their domestic ivory

markets, illegal trade and poaching, and

have closed them down.

“We call on the EU and Japan to follow

suit,” said Balala. “Allowing the sale of

ivory reinforces its social acceptability

and makes it a desirable product to

own or invest in; only to stimulate transnational

wildlife crime.”

On 22 May this year, all eyes will be on

‘Every day, we’re

losing a little bit

of our heritage

and a little bit of


Colombo, Sri Lanka, for the 18th meeting

of the UN’s Conference of the Parties

(CoP18) to make important decisions

to regulate the international trade in

endangered species.

As a cradle for mankind, a hotbed for

wildlife and a champion for conversation,

Kenya will also be present in

Colombo to once again present her

proposals to the world. And on that

day, the government and the people of

Kenya will call upon the international

community to support the adoption of

CoP18, and stand up to be counted as

the generation that secured the future

of the African elephant, and reversed

its imminent extinction.

Kenya wants all elephants in Africa to

be listed in CITES Appendix I, so they’re

given the strictest protection. Herds of

elephants in Botswana, Namibia, South

Africa and Zimbabwe are currently listed

in CITES Appendix II.

22 / TRAVEL / Ghana




Seagoing fishing

canoes in the

harbour. Right page:

Busua Beach.

Robert Harding

Robert Harding

GHANA HAS IT ALL: exciting cities,

pristine rainforests, classic African

savannah, expansive wetlands and some of

the world’s most beautiful beaches.

text Mark Eveleigh

24 / TRAVEL / Ghana


IN DEFIANCE of “municipal orders”, the little boy sat

astride the great gun on the battlements of Elmina Castle. His

knees were scratched from climbing trees, which is the main

occupation of many children here. The Ghanaian security

guard – apparently the entire “defence force” of this historic

fort – smiled benignly as the boy’s father snapped a photo for

the family album. Clearly, the municipal orders were not rigorously


Below the battlements, fishing boats jostled steadily in

Elmina harbour. Furled sails, rippling flags and strings of

laundry hung like bunting from the rigging, giving the fleet

the appearance of a carnival. As I arrived on the battlements,

the sun on my shoulders and the boy’s laughter gave me a

sense of calm as I thought about the history of this place. The

Portuguese built Elmina Castle in 1482, and it’s said to be the

biggest and oldest former slave fort in tropical Africa.


My father and I had driven out of Accra, Ghana’s vibrant

and exciting capital, the previous day in an expedition-prepared

Land Cruiser. It was the start of a journey that would take us

to almost every corner of the country. As volunteers with the

organisation, MAPA (Mapping Africa’s Protected Areas)

Project, our assignment was to explore every trail in the country’s

protected reserves and map them accurately with GPS. It

was typical that Digya National Park, the country’s secondbiggest

reserve, would be our first mapping challenge since it

was almost inaccessible to our Land Cruiser. The only way to

get to Digya (pronounced “dee-juh”), which is on the western

shore of Lake Volta, turned out to be in a wobbly dugout

canoe. “‘Dee-juh’ think this would be easy?” my father joked.

It was clearly easy to get off the beaten track in Ghana, so I

asked the boatman if many tourists came this way. “Plenty,”

he said. “In fact, not even a month has passed yet since the

last one.”

With the help of some friendly locals, we cleared a campsite

with “cutlasses” (as machetes are called here) and spent several

days mapping trails on foot while we enjoyed sightings of some

of Digya’s estimated 236 bird species. Digya is famous for being

the habitat of six primate species, as well as manatees and clawless


“Many people claim that hippos are the most dangerous

animals in Africa,” said our guide Joshua, from Wechiau

Community Hippo Sanctuary, as he paddled his canoe

cautiously through swirling dawn mist on the Black Volta

River. While the eastern bank is Ghanaian, the western bank

belongs to Côte d’Ivoire, with the official boundary running

midstream, turning the 60 or so hippos in this part of the river

into dual citizens. Joshua kept close to his native Ghanaian >

“I swear you could sniff out a surfboard from 50 km

away,” said my father when we finally parked in front

of a shack bearing the legend, Black Star Surf Shop”

Surfing in Ghana

In 1966, Ghana’s beaches became

famous around the world when The

Endless Summer (the most famous

surf film of all time) showed two

Californian surfers cruising perfect

waves that had never been surfed

before. After that, Ghana slipped

almost completely off the world’s

surfing radar. Recently, however,

interest is reviving, and there are

those who believe that Ghana has

the potential to become the next

surfers’ paradise.

Ghana has 539 km of coastline,

including some of the most

spectacular beaches on the planet.

The now legendary The Endless

Summer footage showed local

fishing boats surfing towards the

beach, and long chains of smiling

fishermen hauling nets. The nets,

the boats and, more importantly,

the smiles are still to be found

along the Ghanaian coast.

Above (clockwise

from top): Two adult

elephant bulls in

Mole National Park; A

surfer catches a wave;

Women sitting in the

Asuogyaman District.

Right page: Boats on

the beach in Accra (top);

Central Post Office

in downtown Accra

(bottom left); A woman

walking on Anomabo

Beach (bottom right) .

Robert Harding, Getty Images, ANP Photo

26 / TRAVEL / Ghana


Baskets of

beads and



“Below the battlements,

fishing boats jostled steadily

in Elmina harbour”

Getty Images




28 / TRAVEL / Ghana


Left page: Canopy walkway

in Kakum National Park

(top); Kwame Nkrumah

Memorial Park &

Mausoleum in Accra (bottom

left); A child writing on the

blackboard in a primary

school (bottom right).

Right: Black Star

Gate in Accra.

“My father and I had driven out of Accra,

Ghana’s vibrant and exciting capital, the previous

day in an expedition-prepared Land Cruiser”

Robert Harding, Getty Images

shore while we eased our way past the heavy beasts. “Like

most wildlife, though, I’ve found that they’re okay as long as

you respect them,” he whispered.

The people here treat their wildlife with infinite respect.

For example. when their large population of monkeys (known

locally as mona) die, they’re buried in marked graves in a

special cemetery. These rare Lowe’s monkeys are found only

in Western Ghana and in parts of neighbouring Côte d’Ivoire,

and Boabeng Fiema Monkey Sanctuary is certainly the best

place on the planet to see them up-close.

After mapping the wetlands, we drove north towards the

desert through towns with names that seemed to clang like

camel bells, such as Bolgatanga, Kwun Chorkor and Hellembelle.

Minarets rose high above pot-bellied baobab trees, the

air was filled with the gold-flecked harmattan breeze of the

Sahara, and the desert landscapes along the Burkina Faso

border seemed a world away from the lush tropical forests

we’d explored in the south.

Larabanga village is the site of the oldest mosque in

Ghana, and the statuesque building (thought to date back

to 1421), which fuses the Sudanic and Sahelian architectural

styles, is a popular tourist site these days. Larabanga is also

home to what’s called the Mystic Stone. Legend has it that

when the British colonials were building the road, this boulder

resolutely refused to be moved out of the way; each morning

the engineers would return to work to find that the boulder

was back in the centre of the road. Finally, they decided to let

it stay and simply steered the road around it.


The moral to the story is this: whatever you do, don’t let

anything stop you from getting to Mole National Park. As

Ghana’s biggest national park, it’s more than three times the

size of the Maasai Mara National Reserve, yet – at about

US$8 per person admission – it’s likely to be the most affordable

safari you’ll ever experience. Mole boasts 93 mammal and

344 bird species. Lions, leopards and hyenas are rarely seen,

but there’s a population of about 800 elephants, along with

hippos, buffalo and a whole range of antelope, including kob,

waterbuck, hartebeest, oribi and bushbuck. We had timed our

journey to be in Mole for a Christmas dinner of guinea fowl

curry and the bottle of port (a tradition in our family) that I’d

hidden – without my father’s knowledge – in the back of the

Land Cruiser.

Walking through the garden at Mole Motel on Christmas

Day, I stopped to watch the big rainbow lizards – that looked >

Don’t Miss

Accra, with its burgeoning arts and fashion scene,

is well known for its fabrics and boutiques. It’s

also an exciting city that manages to combine the

feel of a business powerhouse with a fun coastal

beach-break vibe.

Mole National Park is the country’s national

treasure, and it’s possibly the best-value safari

destination on the planet.

Kumasi, the hospitable and vibrant northern city,

is said to be home to the biggest market in West


Elmina Castle, the 15th-century slave fort, is

located near the spot where Europeans and

Sub-Saharan Africans first came into contact.

Kakum National Park boasts a canopy walkway

that stretches over 300 m and rises about 40 m

over the forest floor. These seven suspended cablebridges

offer a unique insight into the life of West

Africa’s jungle canopies.

30 / TRAVEL / Ghana


Left: Sudanic-style

mosque (top); Street

scene near Makola

Market (bottom right);

Pupil from a primary

school in a village near

Accra (bottom left).

A local in a

wooden canoe on

the Volta River.

“Hello ‘obruni’ (white man) was a phrase that

sang out all around us when we entered the tangled

alleyways around Kumasi Central Market”

Where to sleep

Mole Motel is not the chicest accommodation

you’ll ever stay in, but it has a certain retro

charm and offers what must be one of

Africa’s most-affordable safari experiences.

Zaina Lodge is nestled in the heart of Mole

Forest and with wonderfully luxurious and

spacious safari-style tents (more like canvas

suites), it bills itself as West Africa’s first luxury

safari lodge.

Kempinski Hotel Gold Coast City Accra is

possibly Accra’s most salubrious address and

this majestic luxury hotel is perfectly located

for either the business centre or the beach.

Anomabo Beach Resort is a quirky and colourful

beach hangout in a location that combines

history (the 18th-century Fort William) with a

vibrant and exciting beach vibe.

Lou Moon Lodge is a uniquely beautiful

boutique beach resort on what must be one

of the prettiest stretches of coastline in Africa.

like living jewels with their red heads and blue backs – and I

was transported back to my childhood. Almost 40 years earlier,

my family had lived in Ghana after my father – an engineer –

was transferred from the UK and had fallen in love with the

country. Although I’d spent my first months in England, Ghana

had been my first home. Back then, we’d lived in Kumasi where,

shortly after our arrival, my father had been one of the few

foreigners invited to the “enstoolment” (coronation) of the new

Asantehene (Ashanti king). The Ashanti is a tribe of fearless

warriors that fought four separate resistance wars against the

British in the 19 th century. Kumasi Fort – the site of a siege

during the so-called Anglo-Ashanti Wars when 29 Britons were

trapped there – is now the Kumasi Fort and Military Museum.

Together with the explanations given by enthusiastic guides, it’s

a fascinating place to learn more about the history of what

became the first Sub-Saharan country to win independence

from colonial rule (in 1957).


Ghanaian people are famous for being some of the

friendliest in Africa, and Kumasi has a particular reputation

for hospitality. “Hello obruni” (white man) was a phrase that

sang out all around us when we entered the tangled alleyways

around Kumasi Central Market, which has about 45,000 stalls

and is said to be the biggest market in West Africa. Here, you

can buy anything from spices and carvings to colourful kente

fabric. There’s even a section that specialises in gold and diamonds.

I’m not a big shopper, but I could happily have spent

days exploring this kaleidoscope of culture and commerce.

We were coming to the end of our month in Ghana, however,

and we wanted to leave time for some relaxation at the coast.

“I swear you could sniff out a surfboard from 50 km

away,” said my father when we finally parked in front of a

shack bearing the legend, Black Star Surf Shop, in a little

village called Busua. A sunset session “shooting the curl” on

balmy West African waves was the perfect finale to a month

in Ghana, and it left me with the feeling that, whatever happens,

I was sure to return here again one day.

Plan your trip

Kenya Airways operates direct

flights from Nairobi to Kotoka

International Airport in Accra.

Robert Harding, Getty Images, Alamy

32 / TRAVEL / Facts

In a 15-minute taxi between the

gate and the runway, a Boeing

747 can burn about a tonne

of fuel.

The Taxiways

Most airports do not have a specific

speed limit on the taxiways. However, for

safety reasons, most operators have a

general limit of 37-56 km/h.

The taxiway network

connects all the aircraft

facilities at an airport,

such as the runway, the

hangar, the apron and the


“Once the aircraft has been refuelled and the

catering and passengers are on board, it leaves

the ‘apron’ (parking gate) and heads towards

the runway: the pavement strip where it will

gain speed and take off,” says Captain Jude

Tundo. “The paths it moves through to get to

the runway are called ‘taxiways’; the process

itself is called ‘taxiing’.”

By taxiing slowly, the aircraft can stop quickly

and avoid the risk of wheel damage during

turns. Busy aviation hubs sometimes construct

rapid-exit or high-speed taxiways, which allow

the aircraft to vacate the runway more quickly,

permitting another aircraft to land or take off

in a shorter time interval. “The aircraft will taxi

using power from its engines, which are started

once the aircraft has been moved away from

the parking gates,” adds Captain Tundo.

Taxiways usually have a

very hard surface, such

as asphalt or concrete.

Smaller airports sometimes

use grass or gravel.

Yellow markings

on the pavement

surface help the

pilots navigate

on the taxiway.

Text: Annette Lavrijsen, Jude Tundo, Captain and instructor B737-800 fleet. Image: Abubakar Bajaber

34 / PEOPLE / Comedians




There was a time when Africa was regarded as

the “dark continent”; but now it’s having the

last laugh, outpouring with BEAUTIFUL

COMEDIANS. It was hard to choose a top five.

text Jackson Biko






Kabale, Uganda


Don’t Mess With Kansiime TV show

Best Comedian Award (African

Entertainment Awards USA, 2015)

Arts and Culture Award (Airtel Women of

Substance Awards, 2014)

Best Comedian (BEFFTA, 2013)

Best Actress (Lagos International Film

Festival, 2013)


SHE HAS been called the “Queen of Comedy”

and sometimes queens come from little-known

small towns. And you wouldn’t imagine that a small

town like Kabale can raise a hilarious comedian

like Kansiime. Her funny is the type of funny that’s

unique because it depicts the local African lifestyle,

the stories of local people going through local lives,

delivered in those local accents that every part of

Africa can identify with. Through Kansiime, we see

ourselves and how we live, and we laugh at it all.

After completing her higher education at Makerere

University, where she studied arts and social

sciences, she found herself in the theatre honing her

acting skills, which – unbeknown to her – she would

find handy in the following years. In 2014, after

engaging in circuitous artistic endeavours that

comedians go through before they break through,

she started posting her comedy skits on YouTube,

and everything started combusting on the Internet.

Ugandans started taking notice, but her screen

breakthrough (and indeed her regional prominence)

came when Citizen TV started airing her hilarious

TV show, Don’t Mess With Kansiime. She has since

performed to packed houses in Blantyre, Gaborone,

Kigali, Kuala Lumpur, Lagos, Lilongwe, London

and Lusaka.

Her genius still remains in telling normal stories

about normal people. She’s relatable, her humour is

natural, her accent is saucy and her wit is the colour

of earth. Kansiime is the kind of comedian who you

root for from the get-go because of her girl-nextdoor


Quote source: Tuko

“Dear sisters:

if he comes to

your inbox asking

for your number,

give him one digit

per month to test

his patience”

36 / PEOPLE / Comedians











Machakos, Kenya


Johannesburg, South Africa


The Churchill Show

Event Entertainment Award for Churchill Show

(Olx SOMA Awards, 2015)

Showbiz Personality Of The Year (Bingwa Music

Awards, 2015)

Award For Excellence In Comedy (UK Kenya

Achievers, 2012)

The Order of the Grand Warrior of Kenya (State

Commendation, 2011)



Quote source: Engage Burson-Marsteller


The Daily Show

PGA Award Nominee, 2019

Primetime Emmy Nominee, 2018

Primetime Emmy Winner, 2017

MTV Movie + TV Award Winner, 2017


Getty Images

“My first joke…they switched off the mic. It was so boring to even

myself…they relegated me to face-painting for children”

“If you laugh with somebody then you know

you share something”

DANIEL NDAMBUKI, aka Churchill, is more than a

comedian: he’s the comic culture in which Kenyan comedians

are grown. He started out in theatre in the mid-90s, fresh from

a small town an hour’s drive from Nairobi called Machakos.

He dabbled in acting – never really the leading man – trying to

find a break. From the theatre, he joined the cast of TV show,

Redykyulass. This catapulted him into the living rooms of

Kenyans who were – at that time – embracing the idea of

stand-up comedy on TV. Redykyulass revealed Churchill’s

funny bones. From there, he went on to host a morning show

on a local radio station (and still does). After that, he started

his own comedy TV show, Churchill Show, which features

Kenyan personalities and entertainment figures interspersed

with stand-up acts, and is a big weekly attraction for the TV

audience in Kenya. Churchill plays the gatekeeper, the sensei

of comedy, discovering new talent and also engaging interviewees

in a brief talk-show moment, albeit a light one.

Churchill has transcended comedy and is now nurturing

budding comedians, giving them a platform to show their

true talents. He has managed to turn his comedy career into a

multi-faceted and fledgling business – Laugh Industry Kenya

– that branches off into a kids’ festival, and weekly and fortnightly

TV shows.

Even though his presence in the larger African region is yet

to be felt significantly, he remains a notable and respected figure

in the Kenyan comedy scene for his consistency in raising the

profile of the industry in Kenya and East Africa.

THE WHOLE of Africa claims Trevor Noah as their own

even though he’s South African. He’s our vuvuzela, that plastic

horn that was famous during the 2010 FIFA World Cup. He’s

our ambassador, the son of the soil and our pride, and he

blows loud about Africa.

Noah was born of a Swiss father and a South African

mother during the apartheid period; a time when it was illegal

for whites to mix with blacks, let alone conceive babies. With

immense strength and determination, Noah has drawn his

comedy out of this darkness of segregation. And it has

brought him considerable triumph and success.

Noah’s talent was too special to only limit it to Africa; he

belonged to a wider audience with a wider purpose: to show

that humour also lived in Africa and that Africa could also

give the world a smart and funny, black man. (Oh and handsome

too, according to most ladies.)

It’s clear that the world has embraced Noah because now

he sits on one of the most coveted comedy seats in the US: TV

show, The Daily Show. That in itself is a big deal given that he

replaced the iconic Jon Stewart. But a bigger deal could be that

Noah has shown that the vessel of humour is limitless, and that

a funny joke in Guangzhou, China will still make a Nigerian

smile, if not laugh. He’s not just making everybody laugh, he’s

reaching out and building an eco-social bridge between Africa

and the West. He’s making the world see us – Africans – in a

different way, but also mostly making us understand and appreciate

each other as humans. This means that Noah is not a

comedian or an author; he’s an ambassador of goodwill.

38 / PEOPLE / Comedians











Kinshasa, Democratic Republic of the Congo


Lagos, Nigeria


Hosted TEDxEuston in London (2018 and 2019)

Contributor on CNN Talk with Max Foster

First British Comedian to headline at the O2 Arena

Best Male Comedian Nominee (Urban Comedy

Awards, 2009)

Top 5 UK Comedy Talent (Channel 4 Talent, 2008)

Best Newcomer (BECA Comedy Awards, 2006)

Artist of the Year (Vine Awards, 2006)


@comeddiekadi (Instagram)

@EddieKadi (Twitter)

Quote source: Viva Naija Styled by: Carlene Noel


Hosting his own comedy show – Lord Of The Ribs – on

Pan-African Comedy Central

Savanna Pan-African Comic of the Year Award

(Savanna Comics’ Choice Awards, 2018)


Quote source: Nigeria Films Image: Dreamstime

“Laughter is the best medicine, I am your local pharmacist”

“I actually don’t see any comedian as a competitor

as I’m my own competitor”

AT LAST year’s Dubai Comedy Festival, you could tell

that Eddie Kadi, although now a British citizen, was still

plugged into the African psyche. His humour still reaches out

to his roots and finds the nuances of Africa that seem not to

have left him. But, it was quite refreshing to discover that such

talent can come from the Democratic Republic of the Congo,

a country that has had its challenges over the years.

Kadi is making us look at his homeland in a different way.

His family moved to the UK when he was only eight years old,

settling in Fulham, West London. The bug for comedy bit him

while he was taking a media course at Kingston University

London, where he would frequently host stand-up shows. His

star has grown considerably over time, turning him into a

household name in the UK. Kadi has presented on BBC

Radio 1Xtra and contributed to the animated children’s TV

series, Tinga Tinga Tales.

In fact, Kadi became the first British black comedian to

headline at the 02 Arena. “Some people would say that I

should continue playing it safe in smaller venues but I don’t

see why I should keep taking baby-steps when I am confident

I can take giant leaps,” he said in an article in UK newspaper,

The Independent. “I am always looking to improve and move

my career forward.”

In 2006, Kadi won the Best Newcomer award at the

BECA Comedy Awards. His humour is relevant, refreshing

and free of controversy, making him a notable entertainer in

the comedy circuit in Africa and the world.

YOU DON’T have to listen to Bright Okpocha’s jokes to

know that he’s funny. You can also just read his bio on Twitter,

which consists of several pseudonyms: Bobbly Sparkle, The

Green Baby Hustler, The Emperor, The Mafia Boss and The

Son of Peter. However, Basketmouth is the one he goes by.

Basketmouth is one of Nigeria’s best breakout stand-up comedians

to have broken boundaries to export his comedy to the

rest of Africa and, indeed, the world. He has hosted concerts

featuring Beyoncé, Snoop Dogg, Boyz II Men, Rihanna, Jay Z

and many more international stars. As testimony to his comedy

maturity, he hosted his own comedy show, Lord Of The Ribs,

on Pan-African Comedy Central in 2015.

Basketmouth’s jokes are what every African relates to

regardless of where they might hail from. Things like, “As a

child, my family’s menu consisted of two things – take it or

leave it.” This characterisation is the kind of joke not only

exposes a nostalgic African culture shared by most African

societies, it’s funny in its simplicity.

As a graduate of sociology and anthropology from the

University of Benin, Basketmouth never saw himself as a comedian.

He actually started out in church as a drummer for

the church band, before taking a stab at rapping with band, Da

Psychopaths, in the mid-90s. The band of psychopaths died

without releasing an album, and, inspired by Eddie Murphy,

Basketmouth decided to pursue his comedy. His star continues

to shine, his humour an amalgamation of Africa’s unique people

and peculiarities. Africa can only hope that Basketmouth’s

mouth continues to give basketfuls of laughter.

40 / TREND / Innovation

TREND / 41



In Africa, technology – in the form of DRONES


is providing solutions to accessibility challenges,

improving agricultural output and stopping

wildlife poachers.

text Ken Kagicha

“Malawi became the first

country in Africa to launch an

air corridor that allows drones

to be used for assessing crisis


WHEN NAIROBI-BASED company Astral Aerial

Solutions saw an opportunity to expand by providing facility

inspection services and crop monitoring, the obvious choice

was to use drones, also known as Unmanned Aerial Vehicles

(UAVs), which can be deployed to access remote areas much

faster and cheaper than ground vehicles and helicopters.

While the company got the go-ahead from Kenya Civil Aviation

Authority to import the drones, they had to go back to the

drawing board as the authority embarked on a comprehensive

review of drone regulations. But this speed bump did not push

back Astral’s bet on drones as a key future development in the

field of aviation. The company signed an agreement with a

South African institution to provide training for commercial

drone pilots in preparation for the regulation framework to

be approved by Kenya’s parliament. This promises to be an

incubator of new jobs.


“We’re already seeing a lot of interest from young people

who want to be drone pilots. Fully utilised, the drone sector

has the potential to create thousands of jobs in the next five

years,” says Kush Gadhia, Business Development Manager at

Astral Aerial Solutions. Astral’s lofty but girded ambition

reflects Africa’s readiness to leapfrog its infrastructure deficit

by using this emerging technology to supply goods and

services in remote regions. But the company’s situation also

paints a picture of a tight balancing act for regulators who,

on the one hand, want to spur innovation in the aviation

sector, while, at the same time, addressing safety and security

concerns. >

Case study

According to Air Shepherd, an

organisation that uses technology

to balance the effects of human

development on the environment,

rhino poaching has increased by 9,000

percent in South Africa alone since

2007. Across Africa, every 9-11 hours

a rhino is killed for its horn, which is

more valuable than gold on the black


To counter this US$70-billion illegal

trade, Air Shepherd is working with

wildlife enforcement agencies in

South Africa, Zimbabwe and Malawi

to carry out surveillance using drones.

When poachers are identified, rangers

are informed in real time, increasing

their number of interceptions. In one

vulnerable area, where at least 19

rhinos were being killed every month,

Air Shepherd’s intervention has seen

deaths from poaching drop to zero for

six months.


42 / TREND / Innovation

TREND / 43

The urgency to explore these alternative methods is highest

in Africa with the Africa Development Bank estimating

that the continent needs to raise US$170 billion annually in

infrastructure spending to meet the needs of its 1.2 billion

people. And a predominantly rural population, a poor road

network and an innovative spirit have combined to establish

Sub-Saharan Africa as a testing ground for drones.

The Drones on the Horizon report, by the African Union

and the New Partnership for Africa’s Development (NEPAD),

called for African countries to proactively promote technology

in disciplines including crop monitoring, where drones enable

precision agriculture. “Optimising agricultural profit through

increasing productivity and improved yield has benefited from

several innovative developments over the years; one of these

being the use of drones technology,” notes the report.

But the fact that only 26 percent of African countries

have any form of drone regulation – while others have banned

drones – is a classic case of regulation trying to keep pace

with innovation and technology. Nevertheless, according to

Medium article, Drones in Africa, a number of African countries

have been ranked at the top of the Drone Readiness

Index, which looks at how countries are preparing to use

drones for both private and public purposes.


Tanzania – an early adopter of drones – is already using

the technology for flood mapping to predict and mitigate the

risk to affected communities, and it’s Lake Victoria Challenge

(LVC) – an event backed by the Tanzanian government, the

World Bank, UNICEF and others – is exploring how drones

can be commercially deployed in Africa to address the conti-

“Kenya’s innovative

approach to connecting its

citizens should serve as a

model to other countries”

– Scott Coriell –

nent’s infrastructure deficit. The initiative has attracted international

and regional innovators, some of whom are early

adopters of unmanned aircraft, including a Tanzanian team

that has built a local drone out of bamboo and 3D-printed

parts. LVC’s most-recent event, which took place in January

this year, was a drone flight to Juma: a remote island 22 km

from Mwanza’s airport. The test flight, which was monitored

by air traffic control, served to demonstrate how the delivery

of essential and urgent supplies, such as medicine, can bypass

the inefficient ferry service and the expensive speedboats that

serve Juma and other remote islands in the Lake Victoria area.

The participants of LVC’s symposium, which took place in

October 2018, agreed that the government’s role – providing a

regulatory framework and having more enterprises explore commercial

use of drones – will be the key to the success of the

budding sector, which was non-existent five to seven years ago.



In neighbouring Rwanda, innovation and regulation have

combined neatly to meet an essential need. The country’s progressive

policies, which have significantly reduced the amount

operators pay in liability insurance and eased the process of

acquiring a flying permit, have spurred interest in the country’s

airspace. Rwanda’s progressive regulation is part of its SMART

Rwanda Master Plan that aims to attract US$1 billion in investments

in information and communications technology (ICT).

Opportunities include a first-of-a-kind drone port that will be a

hub for drone operations in the country.

The poster child of Rwanda’s drone launch is Zipline, a US

company that has set up a blood-delivery and medical supplies

service in Rwanda. The award-winning company, which is

often cited as the most successful drone-delivery programme

in the world, has, over the last three years, dropped off over

11,000 packages in rural Rwanda. This can be a lifesaving

intervention because, in an average of 30 minutes, Zipline’s

drones can deliver a payload that takes 5 hours by road.


A team of researchers in South Africa, Zimbabwe and

Malawi, collaborating as an organisation called Air Shepherd,

is combining drones and artificial intelligence to hunt down

poachers who operate under the cover of darkness in vast

wildlife parks. Air Shepherd (see the box on the opening

page) flies its silent electric-powered drones, which have

clocked over 6,000 flight hours to date, for surveillance and

captures information in real time through the drones’ infrared

and image-processing cameras that in turn allows rangers to

be more precise when intercepting poaching activity, during

the day and at night.

Following a successful trial run, Malawi became the first

country in Africa to launch an air corridor that allows drones

to be used for assessing crisis situations and delivering emergency

supplies. The growth of the drone sub-sector is already

fuelling Africa’s entrepreneurial spirit with drone companies,

such as Kenya’s Orbital Africa – which provides photography,

mapping and monitoring services by drone – being created

and running profitably across the continent.


But it’s not just drones that are redefining Africa’s airspace.

Google’s sister company, Loon, has partnered with a Kenyan

telco to pilot Africa’s first high-altitude balloons, which act as

floating cell towers. The balloons operate at a height of 20 km,

which is well above air traffic, wildlife and weather events, and

they provide 4G (a cellular data network) coverage to rural and

suburban areas in central Kenya.

Scott Coriell, Head of Global Communications at Loon,

says that the solar-powered balloons’ greater coverage makes it

feasible to provide service to areas that telcos view as uneconomical

due to sparsely distributed populations. “One balloon

can cover an area roughly 40 times greater than what can be

served by a traditional ground-based tower,” he says. “Additionally,

because the balloon provides service from above, we do not

face the same obstacles that can sometimes block a signal from

a ground station, such as buildings or mountains.”

Coriell adds that the support his pilot project has received

from government agencies, particularly in Kenya, has helped the

Internet giant test its first commercial mast balloon. “Kenya’s

innovative approach to connecting its citizens should serve as a

model to other countries looking to employ new technologies to

promote greater connectivity,” he says.


Loon’s balloons float at a height of 20 km


In Africa, 21 countries have drone



The global market for business services

using drones was valued at over US$127

billion in 2016


Air Shepherd has carried out over 4,000

missions so far in South Africa, Malawi

and Zimbabwe


Zipline has dropped over 11,000 medical

packages in Rwanda

Getty Images

44 / BUSINESS / Book review

TRAVEL / Tips / 45

No Hard Feelings:

The Secret Power

of Embracing

Emotions at Work


Liz Fosslien & Mollie West Duffy




Liz Fosslien is a strategy and design

consultant and illustrator. Her

work has been featured on or by

publications including The Economist

and Life Hacker. Mollie West Duffy is

an organisational designer at global

design company IDEO, and she has

helped companies and startups

develop workplace cultures.




Our emotions make us human, so it

pays to make sense of our feelings in a

professional and personal setting. In

seven “new rules”, the authors explore

how to identify, interpret and apply the

emotions we encounter at work.

“How & when

to rely on your


Do you think that being professional

means leaving your feelings at home?

Nothing could be less true. No Hard

Feelings reveals how to navigate the

emotional minefield that is the office.

Top tips from the book.


To be productive, team members

should, “Feel safe throwing out ideas,

taking risks and asking questions.” It’s

all about psychological safety. “If you

don’t let people speak up, or make

them feel stupid, you limit your team’s

chances of pulling off something magical.”

How to foster a “safe” culture?

A “bad ideas brainstorm”, inviting the

most absurd ideas, takes the pressure

off. Also encourage open discussion.

Questions, such as “Does anyone

disagree?”, stop people from voicing

their ideas.


People would rather break up with

someone than confront a colleague in a

difficult work-related conversation, a

survey cited in the book reveals. So,

how to bite the bullet and have that

talk? “Label your feelings, understand

where those feelings are coming from

and feel calm enough to hear the other

person out.” If you are not able to do

this, wait until you are. Why? “Effective

communication depends on our ability

to talk about emotions without getting



“Trust between leaders and workers

breaks down completely if leaders never

show any emotion at all.” It’s also bad

for leaders’ own health to not express

their emotions, the authors write. The

best leaders, they point out, are able to

open up to their staff. “So what’s the

line between sharing, which builds trust,

and oversharing, which destroys it?”

The answer? “Show vulnerability when

assessing a difficult situation, but then

present a clear path forward.”

About the book

With tips on everything from

crying in the office, dealing

with conflict and not getting

pulled in by complainers, here

is a mix of anecdotes, research

and practical takeaways offset

with fun illustrations portraying

those all-too-recognisable

situations we face at work;

including the dreaded “can we

chat” email from the boss.

Text: Annemarie Hoeve

Text: Emma van Egmond Image: Alamy

Geneva’s Gems

Welcome to the gateway to the Alps.

Geneva is ideally situated to explore the

stunning SURROUNDING mountainside

areas, lakes and – partly French – villages.

Here are four great options.

Strolling on a filmset

Situated on top of a hill in the

Rhône-Alpes region, you’ll find

Pérouges: one of the most

beautiful villages in France. It’s

a perfectly preserved medieval

jewel full of history, old stone

gates, winding and paved

streets, cosy squares – such as

Place du Tilleul – and colourful

gardens. It’s well worth the

1.5-hour drive from Geneva.

Say cheese!

Hidden between the mountain

slopes Moléson and Dent du

Chamois (1.5 hours by road

from Geneva), you’ll discover

Gruyères. This traffic-free town

boasts stunning Swiss scenery,

from rolling, green hills and

snow-capped mountains to

picture-perfect castles, such as

Château de Gruyères. This town

is world-famous for its Gruyère

cheese. To find out more about

this heavenly specialty, we

recommend a visit to cheese

farm La Maison du Gruyère.

Going sky high

Get ready for an hour-long drive

from Geneva to the French

mountain resort, Chamonix.

This popular skiing spot lies

at the base of Mont Blanc

and is known for its 169 km

of legendary slopes. But,

Chamonix is also worth a visit

beyond the winter season. Hop

in the cable car to Aiguille du

Midi for a breathtaking view

(at a height of 3,842 m) of the

Swiss-, French- and Italian Alps.

The lively city centre has lots of

atmospheric restaurants, bars

and shops, and the surrounding

area is a hiking and biking


Along the quiet river

Enjoy the most beautiful parts

of the Rhône, one of Europe’s

longest rivers (812 km),

during a three-hour cruise. The

boat takes you from Geneva

to Verbois, and it sails past

unspoilt nature along the

riverbanks, through lavenderfilled

landscapes and past

rolling hills that are dotted with

castles and charming villages.

46 / BUSINESS / Country at a glance


Sources: Sources: / /

Sources: Sources: / /


Official name Republic of of Angola


30,355,880 (July 2018 est.)


US$126.5 billion (2017 est.)



Other cities

Huambo, Benguela


Kwanza (AOA)

Local time UTC +1h

Neighbouring Namibia, Zambia, Democratic Republic of of the


Congo and Republic of of the Congo


Portuguese (official), Umbundu, Kikongo,

Kimbundu, Chokwe and others.

Flight info

Kenya Airways operates flights to to Luanda

three times a a week.






-1 -1

-2 -2

-3 -3


’15 ’15



’16 ’16 ’17 ’17

GDP growth compared to to

the the previous year in in Angola

(in (in percentages)



At a glance


Have a closer look at the potential of Angola.

The most relevant FACTS AND FIGURES,

touristic attractions and social trends of today.

text Yvette Bax infographics Chantal van Wessel/Vizualism

1,000 km km



Business & economy

Subsistence agriculture provides the main

livelihood for for most of of the people, but half

of of the countryʼs food is is still imported.

Angola is is moving

gradually towards aa

more market-based, floating

exchange rate regime with a a

nominal monetary anchor.

Angolaʼs oil oil production and its its

supporting activities contribute

about 50% of of GDP and more than

90% of of the countryʼs exports.

The country

has eased

currency controls and

increased transparency in in

foreign exchange allocations

through regular auctions and

improved communication.

Sources: / /

Sources: / /

Sources: cia gov /

Sources: cia gov /


2. 2. Tundavala Fissure

1. 1. The Miradouro da da Lua

The Tundavala Fissure is is one of of the most spectacular natural sights in in Angola.

(Viewpoint of of the Moon)

The canyon lies at at an an elevation of of 2,600 m and has phenomenal views.

Carved over time by by rain and wind erosion,

Miradouro da da Lua, a a set of of tricoloured

cliffs that resemble a a lunar landscape,

is is best viewed at at sunset when its its

hues are at at their most vivid.

3. 3. Kissama National Park

Situated 70-km south of of Luanda, this is is Angolaʼs

most accessible and most abundant wildlife park.

This sprawling mass of of coastal savannah is is home

to to elephants, buffalo, sea turtles and more.

4. 4. Luanda

Angola’s capital, Luanda, is is a a

lively and vivid city, which has

much to to offer, such as as the

Fortress of of São Miguel, the

National Museum of of Slavery

and the Iron Palace, which

was built by by world-renowned

architect, Gustav Eiffel.

Imports and exports


Top Top 55 import partners








South Africa

5% 5%

Republic of of the the Congo



Top Top 55 imports

1. 1. Refined petroleum 3.2%.

2. 2. Poultry meat 2.7%.

3. 3. Excavation machinery 2.5%.

4. 4. Passenger and cargo ships 2.5%.

5. 5. Raw Sugar 2%.



Top Top 55 exports

1. 1. Crude petroleum 88%.

2. 2. Petroleum gas gas 4.5%.

3. 3. Diamonds 4.3%.

Top Top 55 export partners


4. 4. Refined petroleum 0.75%.

5. 5. Passenger and cargo


ships 0.60%.







South Africa




1. 1. In In 2012, the UN UN declared

that Angola had been stable

for for several years – following

civil war – and invoked a a

cessation of of refugee status for for Angolans.

2. 2. A A province of of

Angola, Cabinda,


of of the the

is is found outside




Angola’s borders

of of the the Congo

– making it it an an


exclave –

between the




Republic of of the

Congo and the



Republic of of the



3. 3. Portuguese

explorer, Diogo

Cão, arrived here in in

1484. He He was the

first European to to

set set foot in in Angola.

4. 4. Angola was

named after the

ancient Kingdom

of of Ndongo, whose

kings were called


Ana Nzinga was a a 17th-century queen of of the

Ndongo and Matamba Kingdoms.

Sources: / / / / CNBC / GFP Sources: / / / the crazy tourist

Sources: / / / / CNBC / GFP Sources: / / / the crazy tourist

48 / BUSINESS / Chocolate




Chocolate is among the world’s most popular

delicacies, and it’s the quintessential

MOTHER’S DAY GIFT in many countries.

But how is it made, and is it sustainable?

text Joseph Maina

Stocksy, Getty Images


associated with courtesy and gratitude,”

says Dr Joy Kiiru, a senior lecturer at

the University of Nairobi’s School of

Economics. “So, if I give you chocolate,

it’s a polite gesture showing that I appreciate

you. Chocolate is a feel-good item

and a gesture of appreciation. If you

want to send a statement of love and

goodwill, you give chocolate.”

Indeed, as many countries celebrate

Mother’s Day this month, millions of

chocolate products will find their way

into the hands of mothers across the

globe, given by their sons and daughters

as a symbol of love and appreciation.

However, they might not know how it

came into being.


Chocolate is a product of cocoa

beans, which grow on cocoa trees. The

cocoa tree bears fruit – pods – on its

trunk and branches that contain cocoa

beans. For optimal growth, cocoa needs

high temperatures, plenty of water and

moist air. The crop thrives in the hot

and humid regions of Africa, Central

and South America, Asia and Oceania.

According to the World Bank’s report,

Forest- and Climate-Smart Cocoa in Côte

d’Ivoire and Ghana, two-thirds of the

world’s cocoa is grown in Africa, with the

majority produced by Côte d’Ivoire and

Ghana. Other cocoa-producing countries

in Africa include Madagascar,

Uganda, São Tomé and Príncipe, Togo

and Cameroon.

Almost 90 percent of Africa’s cocoa

comes from smallholdings of under five

hectares, where cultivation is generally

extensive. The harvesting of cocoa pods

is a labour-intensive process, and often

calls for the input of the whole family.

Once ripe, cocoa beans go through

various steps before they finally become

chocolate (see box on the right).


The UN’s Food and Agriculture

Organization (FAO) notes that over 20

million people depend directly on cocoa

for their livelihoods. According to FAO,

traders buy the processed cocoa beans

from farmers, and then sell them to

grinders who make semi-manufactured

products (liquor, butter, presscake and

powder). These products end up with

chocolate makers or confectioners for

the production of chocolate or chocolate-based


“The East African community

offers a wide opportunity in terms of

the market demand for goods and

services,” says Dr Kiiru. “It comes along

with a population of about 146 million,

as of 2015. Currently, we expect the

market to have grown. The GDP at

market prices stood at approximately

US$1.47 billion according to 2015

statistics, and we expect that that figure

has also grown.”

According to Dr Kiiru, the market

has been recording a positive growth

rate over time, meaning that incomes are

also increasing in the region. This will

likely lead to an increasing consumption

of finished products, and high demand.

“Kenya has big opportunities for some

of these finished goods, mainly because

we’re looking at an expanding middle

class, which comes with a demand for

luxury goods,” says Dr Kiiru. “Also,

Kenya has sustained an increased per

capita growth rate with reduced poverty

levels, and that means the market for

finished goods and services is there.

The consumerism in Kenya is actually



Away from the billions made from

the production of chocolate is a growing

call for stakeholders – who include

consumers of cocoa products – to take

care of the farming communities that

toil in the fields to produce this tasty >

“Fair trade highlights the need for change in the

rules and practice of conventional trade and shows

how a successful business can also put people first”

From bean to bar

1 Once they’re harvested, cocoa beans are removed from ripe pods. These beans

are then taken through a two-part curing process of fermentation and drying.

2 The beans are roasted and then winnowed, which yields the roasted cocoa nib.

3 The cocoa nibs are ground into a paste called “liquor”.

4 Cocoa butter is removed from the liquor.

5 The liquor and cocoa butter are blended with other ingredients to produce

chocolate. This is called “conching”.

6 The chocolate is “tempered” (heated and cooled several times), creating an

even crystallisation.

50 / BUSINESS / Chocolate

Getty Images

Fair trade brands

• In 1994, Maya Gold became the first

chocolate in the UK to be awarded the

Fairtrade mark. The bar was inspired by a

traditional Mayan drink of cocoa and spice

from Belize.

• Certified Cocoa is among ways Guittard,

a US-based chocolate maker, empowers

farmers and farmer groups to instil best

agricultural and social practices.

• Nestlé seeks to improve the lives of farmers

in its cocoa supply chain through its Nestlé

Cocoa Plan, which is active in the main

cocoa-producing countries, with the focus

being on the world’s largest source countries:

Côte d’Ivoire and Ghana.

• Divine Chocolate is co-owned by the

85,000 members of Kuapa Kokoo, a farm

cooperative in Ghana that supplies Divine

with cocoa. Farmers get a share in the

profits, a say in the company and a voice in

the global marketplace.

• Cocoa Life, which is supported by Mondelēz

International chocolate brands (Cadbury, Côte

d’Or, Freia, Marabou, Milka and Suchard), is

on a mission to empower at least 200,000

cocoa farmers and reach one million

community members. Cocoa Life helps

communities thrive in six key cocoa-growing

origins: Ghana, Côte d’Ivoire, Indonesia, India,

the Dominican Republic and Brazil.

treat. This advocacy takes the face of

fair trade. The number of farmers is

falling because the benefits are so poor

that few young people want to be in the

profession these days. “The average age

of a cocoa farmer is over 50,” states the

Fairtrade Foundation. “Farmers aren’t

benefiting sufficiently, and remain in

poverty as their income fails to keep up

with rising production costs and household


According to the World Fair Trade

Organization (WFTO), fair trade is a

trading partnership that’s based on

conventional trade and shows how a

successful business can also put people

first. It’s a tangible contribution to the

fight against poverty, climate change

and economic crisis. “Doing so unlocks

the potential of business to be a force

for good,” says Outah.

When purchasing a gift for a loved

one, it’s important to consider whether

the item has been produced in a fair

system. Products in a fair-trade system

are produced under strictly enforced

standards, which promote better working

conditions and improved terms of trade

for farmers and workers involved in the

production. Besides improving the terms

of trade, the fair trade movement advocates

for the protection of children and

the preservation of the environment.

Despite providing more than half of

the world’s cocoa, Africa manufacturers

produce very little of the world’s chocolate.

However, brands such as Madécasse

are keen on changing this dynamic by

“The number of farmers is falling because the

benefits are so poor that few young people want

to be in the profession”

dialogue, transparency and respect, and

seeks greater equity in international

trade. Fair trade contributes to sustainable

development by offering better

trading conditions for marginalised

producers and workers. Bernard Outah,

Regional Director, Africa & the Middle

East for the WTFO, says that despite its

successes, fair trade has encountered

several challenges, particularly in Africa,

Asia and Latin America. Among these

challenges is a lack of awareness among

the general public. “We need to encourage

local consumers, and, indeed,

consumers everywhere, to make buying

decisions that secure clean rivers and

healthy soils for communities and farmers,

and guarantee sustainable use of

the natural resources,” he says.

Fair trade highlights the need for

change in the rules and practice of

making chocolate entirely in Africa.

“Madécasse empowers Madagascar’s

cocoa farmers with skills training

and higher wages,”

explains. “They source other ingredients

locally in Madagascar as well, then

actually make their chocolate on the

island. So far, they’ve created meaningful

income for over 200 people in Madagascar;

from chocolate making, to

packaging production, to the farming

of the cocoa, spices and fruits.”

Products bearing the Fairtrade

International mark help to address the

injustice of low prices by guaranteeing

that producers receive fair terms of

trade and fair prices, notes the Ethical

Trading Initiative. Other notable marks

include Fair Trade Certified, Fair Trade

Federation, Rainforest Alliance, UTZ

and Fair for Life.

52 / TRAVEL / Rome








A spring stroll through ROME

reveals riches, both cultural and

culinary, hidden throughout Italy’s

fascinating Eternal City.

text Ingrid K. Williams





Barabara Groen, Matteo Colombo, Stocksy, Denise Zwijnen

MORE THAN 1,500 years since the fall of the Roman Empire, there

remains an unmistakable grandeur to Italy’s ancient capital. As I stand in

front of the Coliseum at dusk, modern-day Rome momentarily slips

away; the buzzing Vespas and honking taxis are replaced by battle-ready

gladiators approaching this colossal amphitheatre with brandished

swords and gilded shields. Alas, as I return to reality, I’m reminded that

the only gladiators milling around are costumed actors posing beside the

arena, one of countless historical treasures waiting to be discovered in this

sprawling city’s various neighbourhoods. >

1. The famous colonnades of St. Peter’s Square 2. Trevi Fountain 3. A wine bar at

Piazza del Popolo 4. A classic Fiat 500 5. Street to Piazza di Pasquino 6. St. Peter’s

Basilica 7. Terrace in the hip and trendy Monti quarter.

54 / TRAVEL / Rome


I often return to this complex capital, which is an easy train ride from

my home on Italy’s northwestern coast. As someone who enjoys exploring

on foot, I never tire of getting lost in Rome’s distinct districts, particularly

in the spring when Roman life returns to the sun-warmed streets and

picturesque piazzas. Fall and winter are also marvellous seasons in Rome,

but I’m partial to spring when a warm breeze floats down the Tiber River

and local markets overflow with tender artichokes, spring asparagus and

sweet strawberries. Most importantly, this is prime season for a passeggiata

– the Italian pastime of aimless strolling – through the culture-rich city

streets that boast nearly three millennia of art, architecture and history.

Summer is less appealing because of the blazing heat. This is when many

businesses shutter for ferie, the long summer vacation during which Italians

flee the cities for the coast.


The natural place to begin is in the Centro Storico (historic city centre),

which is a labyrinth of cobblestone lanes and traffic-clogged boulevards

where ancient monuments coexist with everyday life. Strolling these streets,

I’m always startled by the contrasts. One minute, I’ll be walking along

residential lanes, past ivy-draped balconies and shopkeepers smoking in

doorways. And the next, I’ve turned a corner onto Piazza Navona, one of

the city’s most opulent squares with its elegant Baroque architecture,

ancient Roman obelisk and three grandiose fountains. Or I’ll stumble upon

the famous Trevi Fountain, where Anita Ekberg and Marcello Mastroianni

frolicked in the 1960 Federico Fellini film, La Dolce Vita. Local legend says

that tossing in a coin – with your back to the fountain, right hand over your

left shoulder – will ensure your eventual return to Rome, and I always

oblige. When it’s time for a short rest, sidle up to the counter at Roscioli

Caffè, a narrow coffee bar – popular among locals and tourists alike – for

an espresso and a maritozzo (a cream-filled sweet bun). Then continue on to

the Pantheon, an ancient Roman temple rebuilt betweeen AD 118 and AD

128 during the reign of the emperor Hadrian. This well-preserved architectural

masterpiece, which was later used as a church, is best viewed from

inside where sunlight streams into a central rotunda through an oculus in

the building’s hemispherical dome.

“Gelato in hand,

continue strolling

through the neighbourhood’s


alleyways, past aging

buildings with laundry

hanging from windowsill



Roscioli Caffè

Sip your morning cappuccino at this

specialty coffee bar and pastry shop;

the latest venture from the Roscioli

family who also run a superb bakery

(Antico Forno Roscioli) and restaurant

(Salumeria Roscioli) in the historic centre.

Piazza Benedetto Cairoli, 16.


Satisfy your sweet tooth at this innovative

gelateria, which has several locations

around the city. Imaginative flavours

are made from seasonal, all-natural

ingredients with many sugar-, dairy- and

gluten-free options available.

Via Roma Libera, 11.

Mercato di Testaccio

Beside the city’s old slaughterhouse,

this historic market caters to local cooks

and visiting foodies alike, with streetfood

stalls serving authentic Roman fare

alongside butchers, bakers and pastamakers.

Via Alessandro Volta.



3 4


After ticking off some of the city’s top sights, cross the 15th-century

Ponte Sisto bridge to the west bank of the Tiber River where you’ll find

the lively neighbourhood of Trastevere. Formerly a working-class district,

this picturesque area has a well-worn, quintessentially Roman charm

that’s perfect for exploring on a passeggiata. On sunny days, do as the

Romans do and stop for a gelato (ice cream) at Fatamorgana, a favourite

gelateria (ice cream shop) known for its natural ingredients and imaginative

flavours. Warm weather calls for a cup made from seasonal fruit, like

watermelon or pensiero, a tart blend of pink grapefruit, ginger, >

1. Street in the Trastevere quarter 2. Bar San Calisto 3. The façade of the famous

Antico Forno Roscioli bakery 4. The Coliseum, the world’s largest amphitheatre

5. Limoncello 6. Ice cream at Park Villa Borghese 7. St. Peter’s Basilica seen from

Ponte Vittorio Emanuele II 8. Artichokes at the Campo de’ Fiori Market 9. A bar in the

Trastevere quarter.

Flavio al Velavevodetto

Traditional Roman cuisine is the calling

card at this casual restaurant, which is

built into the side of Monte Testaccio,

an ancient dumping ground for Roman

amphorae (terracotta ceramics), the

remains of which are displayed through

arched windows inside.

Via di Monte Testaccio, 97.


There’s always a line outside this

superb pizza-by-the-slice joint, where

the sourdough base is made from

heirloom wheat flour. Toppings, which are

seasonal, change daily.

Via della Meloria, 43.

Barabara Groen, Matteo Colombo, Denise Zwijnen, Susan Wright






56 / TRAVEL / Rome




Design connoisseurs will adore this boutique

hotel where luxurious suites are furnished with

mid-century antiques from Italian designers,

such as Ico Parisi and Giò Ponti, in a historic

residence near Piazza Navona.

Piazza di Pasquino, 69.


1 3 4

Portrait Roma

Owned by the Ferragamo family, this elegant

townhouse is located on the most fashionable

street in Rome, and it boasts impeccable suites,

faultless service and sweeping views from a

rooftop terrace.

Via Bocca di Leone, 23.

Generator Rome

For cool style on a tight budget, this upscale

hostel near the central train station offers

shared dorms as well as cosy private rooms with

colourful, contemporary décor.

Via Principe Amedeo, 251.

J.K. Place Roma

Situated in the historic centre near the Tiber

River, this luxury hotel is supremely stylish, from

the white-marble sculptures in the lobby to plush

suites outfitted with fireplaces and four-poster


Via di Monte d’Oro, 30.

horseradish and caramelised lemon. Gelato in hand, continue strolling

through the neighbourhood’s cobblestone alleyways, past aging buildings

with laundry hanging from windowsill clotheslines, street-side trattorias

(restaurants) with checked-linen tables, and peaceful alleys patrolled by

local cats. Art lovers may consider continuing on to the nearby Villa

Farnesina, a Renaissance-era mansion with beautiful interior frescos,

including a masterpiece by Raphael. Or rest your feet in Piazza di Santa

Maria, a bustling square in the heart of Trastevere, where you can watch

the world go by from a perch on the steps of the central fountain.


Rome’s culinary traditions are as worthy of attention as its ancient

sights, and one of the best areas to sample traditional Roman flavours is

in the southern neighbourhood of Testaccio. Here you can explore one

of the city’s oldest food markets, Mercato di Testaccio, which is now

located in a bright modern complex with over 100 vendors. Shop for

juicy cherries, ripe tomatoes, handmade pasta and roasted coffee beans.

If you’re hungry, order a panino (sandwich) at Mordi e Vai, a stall serving

rolls stuffed with classic Roman specialties, such as tripe, oxtail and fried

meatballs. Those seeking a proper sit-down meal can reserve a table at

Flavio al Velavevodetto, a nearby osteria (pub), for a glass of red wine

and tonnarelli cacio e pepe (fresh pasta in a velvety pecorino-and-pepper

sauce). In spring, try the carciofi alla romana (Roman-style artichokes), a

beloved local and seasonal dish.



6 7 9

Barbara Groen, Matteo Colombo, Denise Zwijnen, Susan Wright

The Must-See Sights


Over 7 million tourists a year visit the Roman

Coliseum, the world’s largest amphitheatre,

which is nearly 2,000 years old. The ancient

50,000-seat arena where gladiators once

battled is the top tourist attraction in Italy.

Roman Forum

A vast rectangular plaza, the Roman Forum

was the heart of everyday life in ancient Rome.

A history buff’s dream, these sprawling ruins

include the remains of archaic government

buildings and the burial site of Julius Caesar.

St. Peter’s Basilica

Situated atop Vatican Hill, St. Peter’s Basilica is

one of the largest churches in the world, and it’s

among the most significant within Christianity.

This masterpiece of Renaissance architecture

is filled with opulent mosaics and sculptures,

including Michelangelo’s Pietà.

Kenya Airways will begin flying to Rome (Italy)

and Geneva (Switzerland) from Nairobi’s Jomo

Kenyatta International Airport on 12 June.


No trip to Rome would be complete without a visit to the Vatican,

which is the papal residence and the headquarters of the Roman Catholic

Church. Those eager to see Pope Francis in person can reserve tickets to

a Papal Audience, which are held on Wednesdays in St. Peter’s Square

when the Pontiff is not travelling. Plan to arrive early for a visit to the

Vatican Museums, a palatial complex housing one of the world’s greatest

collections of art. Once inside, marvel at the lavish rooms displaying masterpieces

by Giotto, Da Vinci and Caravaggio, 16th-century frescos by

Raphael and the magnificent 14th-century Sistine Chapel. After admiring

Michelangelo’s famous ceiling frescos and altarpiece, take a short stroll

to sample another Roman icon, pizza al taglio (pizza by the slice). At

Pizzarium, a bustling take-away pizzeria run by the acclaimed baker

Gabriele Bonci, choose among a dozen or so rectangular pizzas piled

with seasonal toppings, such as artichokes and mozzarella, zucchini

flowers, or ricotta with spicy ‘nduja sausage. Scissor-snipped slices can be

consumed on the spot, perhaps with a local craft beer. Or take it with you

on your continued peripatetic exploration of Rome.

1. The view from the roof terrace at Hotel Raphael 2. The Pantheon’s dome 3. Pasta at

Campo de’ Fiori market 4. Espresso bar 5. A man enjoying an ice cream at Gelateria

Tre Archi 6. Artisanal beers at bar 7. Interior of St. Peter’s Basilica in the Vatican

City 8. Bicycle with a basket full of chillies in the Trastevere quarter 9. Restaurant

Alimentari Coronari, Piazza dei Coronari.

58 / WILDLIFE / Whale migration




The great wildebeest migration has a twin: the

migration of HUMPBACK WHALES from

Antarctica into East African waters, which comes

close to Kenya’s Watamu Beach. It’s another reason

to visit Kenya’s spectacular coastal region.

text Sarah Haaij


60 / WILDLIFE / Whale migration


“One of the best places to

see the whales is

Watamu in Kilifi County”

Mwangi Kirubi

Getty Images

ASK ANY tourist to name the Big

Five of Kenya, and they will probably

be able to recite them (lions, leopards,

rhinos, elephants and buffalo). Equally

well known and treasured is Kenya’s

wildebeest migration: the yearly wildlife

phenomenon, whereby the thundering

hooves of uncountable wildebeest arrive

from Tanzania into Kenya’s Maasai

Mara National Reserve.

What far fewer people know,

however, is that this event coincides

with another natural phenomenon: the

whale migration, which is known as the

Twin Migration. Every year, humpback

whales migrate north, from the icy seas

of Antarctica to Kenya’s coast. After

a journey of more than 5,000 km, the

gigantic mammals rest in the secluded

protection of the tropical reefs, where

they will mate or give birth to their


Both the terrestrial migration, as

well as its oceanic twin, peak between

July and September. This provides visitors

with the opportunity to witness two

wildlife phenomena in one visit.


One of the best places to see the

whales is Watamu in Kilifi County; a

coastal town known for its beautiful

coral reefs, exciting water sports and

mangroves. “Everyone knows the Big

Five,” says Steve Trott. “But at the

coast, we have something equally

impressive; it’s what we call the Marine

Big Five: whales, dolphins, whale sharks,

sea turtles and billfish.”

Trott is one of the founders of the

Watamu Marine Association (WMA),

an organisation that aims to protect the

natural surroundings and marine life of

Watamu. What began with a plastic

clean-up on the beach has now developed

into a community initiative for

sustainable tourism. “During one of

our actions, a conservation project for

dolphins, we discovered that we have a

good number of whales coming through

Watamu,” says Trott, who trained as a

marine biologist. “But nobody really

knew anything about the status of this

population. There was no research, let

alone protection programmes.” In early

2012, some people didn’t believe that

Trott and his colleagues had seen

whales close to the Kenyan coast.

“That’s why we invite everyone to join

a whale-watching trip and see for themselves,’’

he adds.


Making the most of summer in the

Southern Hemisphere, the whales spend

a lot of time around the South Pole,

feeding on krill and small fish. But,

when the polar winter kicks in, the

mammals start their journey for warmer

waters in the north. Each group of

whales has its own migration route.

Some groups will swim all the way up

the Pacific coast, to South America and

California in the US, while an estimated

4,000-5,000 fins travel to the East Africa

coast passing Mozambique, Tanzania

and Kenya. The population congregates

and stays at different spots along the

way, while some continue northward.

Two of the stops along the route

are the Malindi and Watamu Marine

National Parks, where more and more

visitors arrive to meet these majestic

mammals. “Last season, we had a fishing

boat going out whale watching daily,”

says Trott. “And, most importantly,

we’re promoting responsible whale

watching; making sure the whales are

not disturbed.’’

Stress, caused by harassment or

sounds, can negatively impact whales’

behaviour and breeding habits. By

approaching slowly, keeping a distance

and refraining from interaction with

mothers and calves, tourist guides can

ensure that whale watching is equally

fun for everyone involved.

“And, if you’re lucky, you’ll have an

amazing experience,” says Trott. “Witnessing

a 40,000-kg giant leaping out of

the sea – and it can go as high as one

metre – and splashing back into the



Before a 1986 moratorium on whaling,

the number of humpbacks reached

an absolute low; with the population

being hunted until its numbers fell by

90 percent. While there has been some

recovery, whales and other marine mammals

are still at risk of man-made threats,

such as unregulated whale watching,

plastic pollution, fishing by-catch, oil

and gas exploration, and ocean traffic.

“Big vessels produce a lot of noise,

and this can disorient the whales who

depend on sound communication when

looking for food, for example,” says

Michael Mwang’ombe. ‘’In the worst

case, this can result in stranding or

collisions with ships.’’

Mwang’ombe is a data expert and

scientist working with WMA and the

Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS). >

What we know about

humpback whales

• They’re named after the distinctive hump in

front of their small dorsal fin.

• Humpback whales are known for their songs,

which travel for great distances through the

ocean. Scientists are still deciphering the true

meaning of these magical sounds. It’s most

likely that humpbacks sing to communicate

with others, and to attract potential mates.

• Growing up to 15 m and weighing 40 tonnes,

these gigantic mammals are the size of a

school bus.

• Females are larger than males.

• They migrate farther than any other mammal

on Earth; and they can travel around 5,000

km between their breeding and feeding


• According to scientists, the longest recorded

migration ever is 8,299 km. It occurred

between Costa Rica and Antarctica.

• Mothers and their young swim closely

together, often touching one another with

their flippers with, what we think are,

gestures of affection.

62 / WILDLIFE / Whale migration


“Stress, caused by harassment or

sounds, can negatively

impact whales’ behaviour”

Mwangi Kirubi

A few years ago, Mwang’ombe didn’t

know much more about whales than the

Bible story he learnt, which was about

Jonah, who was swallowed by the whale.

But, since his work with WMA,

Mwang’ombe has become fascinated by

what he now affectionately calls, “The

friendliest animals in our oceans”.

In a joint effort with the KWS,

Mwang’ombe has been conducting the

first consistent studies of marine mammals

on the Kenyan coast. They have

been photographing dolphins and whales

to identify them, and collecting data on

whale sightings along the migration route.

Now he aims to share this knowledge

with all the important partners and the

community. During trainings and workshops,

WMA and Mwang’ombe reach

out to schoolchildren, fishermen, hotel

owners and government bodies. “The

important thing we’ve achieved is that the

community has embraced the whales and

are willing to protect them,’’ says


For example, in earlier days, local

fisherman could experience problems

when they encountered whales. When

fishing along the migration routes, they

would lose fishing gear or find an animal

entangled in their nets. Now, these

fishermen are incorporated into the

conservation programme. They function

as community whale reporters: photographing

whales and dolphins when they

see them, reporting sighting locations of

whales and other marine animals, and

sharing this valuable information in the

communal WhatsApp group.

“We encouraged the start of a citizen

science network, in which all marine

users report and share valuable data

with us,’’ says Mwang’ombe. More so,

fishermen now generate extra income by

combining fishing trips with dolphin

and whale watching for tourists.

Mwang’ombe is proud to see how

the people of Watamu have managed to

bring different interests together for the

benefit of both the community as well

as the whales. “It’s amazing to see all

the people participating for the greater


It’s rather fitting, then, that Watamu

means “sweet people” in Swahili.

Whales are very important

for the ocean

Whale faeces is rich in nutrients,

such as nitrogen and iron. That’s how

it contributes to the development

of tiny, single-celled plants called

phytoplankton. Whale faeces forms

the first link in the ocean food chain,

providing food for zooplankton, such

as krill, which is also important food

for fish.

Getty Images


Kenya Airways

offers its passengers

complimentary inflight


The programme will

vary in different aircraft

types. Check your

screen to view the

selection on your flight.

Relax & Enjoy

Discover our complimentary blockbusters, new releases,

African films, all-time favourites, Bollywood films, TV, audio and

games during your flight. These are this season’s highlights.

Bohemian Rhapsody

(read more on the next page)

“We’re family.

We believe in each other.

That’s everything”

– Freddie Mercury –


G Suitable for all ages PG Some material may not be suitable for children PG-13 Some material may be inapproriate for children under 13

R Under-17s should watch only with parental approval Please note: at certain periods of the month the programming may differ from that shown.



New Releases

New Releases




From obscurity to worldwide fame,

Bohemian Rhapsody tells the tale

of Freddie Mercury and the band

that catapulted him to stardom:


The Crimes Of Grindelwald (2018) ADVENTURE

The second installment of the “Fantastic Beasts” series set in J.K. Rowling’s

Wizarding World featuring the adventures of “magizoologist” Newt Scamander.

Jude Law, Johnny Depp. PG-13, 134 mins. Director: David Yates.

A Star Is Born (2018) DRAMA

A musician helps a young singer find fame, even as age and alcoholism

send his own career into a downward spiral.

Lady Gaga, Sam Elliott. R, 136 mins. Director: Bradley Cooper.

Bad Times At The El Royale (2018) MYSTERY

Seven strangers, each with a secret to bury, meet at El Royale, a rundown

hotel with a dark past. Each will have a shot at redemption, but at what cost?

Jeff Bridges, Dakota Johnson. R, 141 mins. Director: Drew Goddard.

After watching the band, Smile, perform,

Farrokh Bulsara (Rami Malek) approaches

members Brian May (Gwilym Lee) and

Roger Taylor (Ben Hardy) about becoming

their new lead singer. They’re soon joined

by John Deacon (Joe Mazzello) and, a

year later, the band begins to generate a

following, and tour across England.

During one trip, their van breaks down,

leading Bulsara to suggest that they sell it

to fund their first album. Now going by the

name Queen, the band’s luck beings to

change as they land a contract with a

record company.

Meanwhile, Bulsara changes his name

legally to Freddie Mercury. It’s not long,

however, before cracks begin to show in the

band and in Freddie’s personal life. His

relationship with Mary Austin (Lucy

Boynton) starts to suffer because of a new

potential love interest.

Bohemian Rhapsody stars the formidable

talent Malek, whose performance was

critically acclaimed worldwide, winning a

Golden Globe, as well as a BAFTA and

Oscars nomination.

Watch the highest-grossing musical biopic

of all time on board Kenya Airways today!

The Kindergarten Teacher (2018) DRAMA

A kindergarten teacher in New York becomes obsessed with one of her

students whom she believes is a child prodigy.

Gael García Bernal, Maggie Gyllenhaal. R, 95 mins. Director: Sara Colangelo.

Peppermint (2018) ACTION

Five years after her husband and daughter are killed in a senseless act of

violence, a woman comes back from self-imposed exile to seek revenge.

Jennifer Garner, John Ortiz. R, 99 mins. Director: Pierre Morel.

Justice League (2017) ACTION

Batman enlists newfound ally Wonder Woman to recruit a team to stand

against a catastrophic threat from a newly awakened enemy.

Gal Gadot, Jason Momoa. PG-13, 119 mins. Director: Zack Snyder.

PG-13, 134 mins. Director: Bryan Singer

Did you know

~ For his role as Freddie Mercury, Rami Malek was fitted with special

prosthetic teeth to recreate Mercury’s prominent overbite. After

filming wrapped, Malek kept the teeth as a memento from the shoot,

eventually having them cast in gold.

The Sisters Brothers (2018) ADVENTURE

In 1850s Oregon, a gold prospector is chased by the infamous duo of assassins,

the Sisters brothers.

Joaquin Phoenix, Jake Gyllenhaal. R, 121 mins. Director: Jacques Audiard.

Can You Ever Forgive Me? (2018) BIOPIC

When Lee Israel is no longer able to get published because she has fallen

out of step with current tastes, she turns her art form to deception.

Melissa McCarthy, Richard E. Grant. R, 106 mins. Director: Marielle Heller.

A Private War (2018) BIOPIC

Celebrated war correspondent Marie Colvin is driven to the frontline of

conflicts across the globe to give voice to the voiceless.

Rosamund Pike, Jamie Dornan. R, 110 mins. Director: Matthew Heineman.



African Highlights


Breaking Rules

Ehi's Bitter

Smallfoot (2018)

A young yeti finds something he thought didn’t exist, a human. News of this

“smallfoot” quickly spreads to the simple yeti community.

Channing Tatum. PG, 96 mins. Directors: Karey Kirkpatrick, Jason Reisig.

The Lego Ninjago Movie (2017)

The battle for Ninjago City calls to action Green Ninja Lloyd, along with his

friends, who are all secret ninja warriors.

Jackie Chan. PG, 101 mins. Directors: Charlie Bean, Paul Fisher.

Baby Palaver

The Village


Picks from

the continent

We’ve selected the best of current African cinema,

including drama and comedy.

Breaking Rules (2018) DRAMA

Martins and Vivian fall captive to their emotions, laying down their guards

as they begin a relationship. This leads to a series of events that will

define them forever.

Seun Akindele, Yvonne Jegede Fawole, Olakunle Fawole. PG-13, 102

mins. Director: Biodun Stephen.

The Village (2018) DRAMA

An old family rivarly over a land dispute becomes a hindrance between

John and Olanna. But an act of love in the face of danger might put an end

to the dispute.

Cassandra Odita, Emma Ayalogu, Eddie Watson. PG-13, 137 mins.

Director: Akin-Tijani Balogun.

My Story (2018) DRAMA

A civil engineer supervising a building in a village takes a liking to a poor

boy. Things take an interesting turn when the engineer takes the boy with

him to the city.

Zubby Michael, Offiafuluagu Mbaka, Chizzy Alichi. R, 134 mins. Director:

Daniel Chukwueze.

Wet (2018) ROMANCE

A successful career woman, who has been jilted by many men, falls in love

with her assistant.

Ruth Kadiri, Fred Peters. R, 94 mins. Director: Emmanuel Mang Eme.

Storks (2016)

Although Storks now deliver packages, when an order for a baby appears,

the best delivery stork must scamble to fix the error by delivering the baby.

Katie Crown. PG, 87 mins. Directors: Nicholas Stoller, Doug Sweetland.

Rio 2 (2014)

It’s a jungle out there for Blu, Jewel and their three kids after they’re hurtled

from Rio de Janeiro to the wilds of the Amazon.

Jesse Eisenberg, Anne Hathaway. G, 100 mins. Director: Carlos Saldanha.

Ehi’s Bitters (2018) DRAMA

It is said that time heals all wounds, but the same cannot be said for

Ehisoje. Can she find her way through all the chaos?

Deyemi Okanlawon, Joshua Richards, Enado Odigie. PG-13, 115 mins.

Director: Biodun Stephen.

Dear Mummy B (2018) DRAMA

A single mother’s advice to her daughter’s friend goes viral on the

Internet, bringing with it fame and fortune. It also places a strain on their


Ada Ameh, Ijeoma Grace Agu. R, 100 mins. Director: Tope Oshin.

Baby Palaver (2018) DRAMA

For a girl who had shut out love for a long time, one and a half men is too

much to let in all at once.

Desmond Elliot, Unche Jombo Rodriguez, Selassie Ibrahim. PG-13, 85

mins. Director: Desmond Elliot.

Cooked Up Love (2018) ROMANCE

A combination of good looks, charisma and finesse makes Chef Abbey’s TV

show the toast of the cooking community. A twist on the show results in an

unlikely reunion with his ex.

Enado Odigie, Bimbo Ademoye. R, 98 mins. Director: Desmond Elliot.

Legend Of The Guardians: The Owls Of Ga’hoole (2010)

When a young owl is abducted by an evil owl army, he must escape with his

newfound friends and seek the legendary Guardians to stop the menace.

Jim Sturgess, Hugo Weaving. PG, 100 mins. Director: Zack Snyder.

Fantastic Mr. Fox (2009)

An urbane fox cannot resist returning to his farm-raiding, which leads him

to help his community survive the farmers’ retaliation.

Meryl Streep, Bill Murray. PG, 86 mins. Director: Wes Anderson.




Music Channel Explained: The Channel number for

your favourite music programmes is shown at the end

of each description. It’s determined by the aircraft type,

so you will need to know what type of aircraft you’re on.

Please check the safety card in front of you.

Spotlight on

Hall &


In this month’s spotlight we experience

the epic duo Daryl Hall &

John Oates.



The Immortals

The American pop rock duo shot to

fame in the late 1970s and early 1980s.

They have sold an estimated 40 million

records. Hall & Oates’ hits include: Rich

Girl, Kiss on My List, Private Eyes, I

Can’t Go for That (No Can Do),

Maneater and Out of Touch.

KQ Radio (with guest DJ)

Our guest DJs bring you some of Kenya’s biggest

hits. B737 CH. 3

Magic River 2 Broke Girls The 100

Small Screen


& Series

We’ve selected the best TV comedies, drama, sports

and lifestyle programmes for your entertainment.


Fresh Off The Boat, Season 3, Episodes 3 & 4: A Taiwanese family makes

their way in the US during the 1990s.

2 Broke Girls, Season 6, Episodes 20 & 21: Two young women waitressing

at a diner strike up an unlikely friendship in the hopes of launching a business;

if only they can raise the cash.

The Middle, Season 9, Episodes 6 & 8: The daily mishaps of a married

woman and her semi-dysfunctional family, and their attempts to survive life

in general in the town of Orson, Indiana.

Speechless, Season 1, Episodes 3 & 4: The family of a special-needs teen

is good at dealing with the challenges he faces, and creating new ones.


Dream Teams, Season 1, Episodes 3 & 20: The series that selects the

“ultimate” teams across clubs, nations and eras; often with contentious


The Immortals, Season 1, Episode 6: The careers of sport’s greatest icons

are celebrated in this stunning 52-part series.

Gillette World Sport, Season 1, Episode 9: A look at sports around the world.


Magic River: Running rivers and singing birds, this film will help take you

away with pleasant sensory experiences.

Made in Kenya, Season 1, Episode 1: Made In Kenya is a five-minute

info-tainment television show, which features the production processes that

go into creating Kenya’s finest consumer goods and unique services.

Science of Stupid, Season 3, Episode 1: The show that combines cold hard

science with some of the craziest, most spectacular and painful user-generated

clips ever recorded is back for a third season.


Big Problems/Big Thinkers, Season 1, Episode 1: This show features

acclaimed journalist Terre Blair interviewing an extraordinary group of leaders

to find solutions to some of the most urgent challenges facing humanity.

Beyond Innovation, Season 1, Episode 1: Beyond Innovation uncovers the

world’s new and emerging technologies that are changing the way we live

and do business.

One To One, Season 1, Episode 1: In-depth, hard-hitting interviews with

newsworthy personalities who have had a profound influence on African affairs.


Arrow, Season 6, Episodes 1, 2, 3 & 4: Billionaire playboy Oliver Queen is

missing and presumed dead when his yacht is lost at sea. He returns five

years later a changed man, determined to clean up the city as a hooded

vigilante armed with a bow.

The X-Files, Season 11, Episodes 3 & 4: Two F.B.I. Agents, Fox Mulder the

believer and Dana Scully the sceptic, investigate the strange and unexplained,

while hidden forces work to impede their efforts.

The 100, Season 5, Episodes 1 & 2: Set 97 years after a nuclear war has

destroyed civilisation, a spaceship housing humanity’s survivors sends 100

juvenile delinquents back to Earth, in hope of repopulating it.

African Classics

The best tunes from classic African artists, from

Davido to DJ Maphorisa. B737 CH. 4


With stunning tracks from Van Morrison to Billie

Holiday, this highly diverse collection is a mustlisten

for the discerning jazz fan. B737 CH. 7


The biggest pop hits of the moment, with catchy

favourites from Noah Cyrus and many more.

B737 CH. 8


Enjoy a fusion of dancehall and reggae sounds,

featuring a range of diverse artists such as Ziggy

Marley and Prince Buster. B737 CH. 6


Sit back and relax to the awe-inspiring

compositions of Martin Stadtfeld or Lang Lang

in this classical collection. B737 CH. 5

Easy Listening

Unwind and take it easy with some laid-back

sounds from Frank Sinatra, Céline Dion and

many more. B737 CH. 10

Classic Rock

Rock out to rock classics from David Bowie, The

Kinks, Bruce Springsteen and many more. B787

and B777

“Our new single, ‘Maneater’,

isn’t something that sounds like

anything else on the radio. The idea

is to make things better”

– Daryl Hall in an interview with NME –



Film and TV

The Ones to Watch

These are the most popular films from our selection.

If you’ve already seen these, take your pick

from this season’s selection of 35 family and kids’ films.

The Looney Tunes Show

An updated iteration of the classic

Looney Tunes characters focusing

on their satirical misadventures

living in suburbia.

Season 2, Episode 3

Justice League Action

Batman, Superman and Wonder

Woman lead the DC Super Heroes

against their most infamous foes.

Season 1, Episodes 6 & 7

The Jetsons

The misadventures of a futuristic


Season 1, Episode 12

Beware the Batman

Batman, a crime-fighting vigilante

of Gotham City, goes up against the


Season 1, Episode 1


Animaniacs is a US animated

comedy television series created

by Tom Ruegger.

An ensemble cast of off-the-wall Warner

Bros. characters, appearing in a wide

variety of roles. Mainly starring the

Warner Siblings Wakko, Yakko and Dot,

who were created by the Warner Bros.

Studios but found they were just too

“zany” to be of any use to the studio.

Season 1, Episode 40



The ARK at JFK International

Airport is the first full-service

animal health and reception

terminal in the US.

✈ To book flights to New York go


Safari Njema


See More of Europe

Kenya Airways offers more choice and benefits

for travellers on its Africa-Europe routes, which

include new destinations, such as Athens, Milan,

Geneva and Rome.

Evan Wise on Unsplash

KQ launched a carbon

offset programme in

2011, the first African

airline to do so.



✈ Kenya Airways’ Dreamliner aircraft

has dimmable windows, rather than

window shades.

Codeshare agreements

Kenya Airways

Expands Again

Kenya Airways has signed a broad codeshare

agreement with Italian airline, Alitalia.

This new commercial partnership is expected to increase

business travel and tourism between Kenya and Italy, giving

tourists and businessmen more travel options and better

flight schedules when travelling to Europe and Central- and

Southern Africa, through the airlines’ hubs in Nairobi and


Courtesy of the codeshare agreement, customers can fly

seamlessly to their desired destination with a single “unique”

ticket, checking-in at the airport of departure and collecting

their checked-through baggage at the end of their trip at the

arrival airport.

Besides the new codeshare services and convenient flight

connections, Kenya Airways and Alitalia customers will have

the opportunity to earn and redeem miles on the entire network

operated by both airlines.

Thanks to the codeshare agreement, Alitalia will apply its

“AZ” code on many services operated by Kenya Airways

beyond Nairobi to Mombasa and Kisumu in Kenya, as well

as a further 19 African destinations, namely: Abidjan (Côte

d’Ivoire); Accra (Ghana); Addis Ababa (Ethiopia); Antananarivo

(Madagascar); Brazzaville (Republic of the Congo);

Dar es Salaam, Kilimanjaro and Zanzibar (Tanzania);

Douala (Cameroon); Johannesburg (South Africa); Kigali

(Rwanda); Khartoum (Sudan); Kinshasa and Lubumbashi

(Democratic Republic of the Congo); Lagos (Nigeria);

Maputo and Nampula (Mozambique); Moroni-Hahaya

(Comoros); and the Seychelles.

Similarly, Kenya Airways will expand its international services

by placing its “KQ” flight code on Alitalia’s flights from Rome

to 16 Italian domestic destinations (Brindisi, Bologna, Bari,

Catania, Florence, Genoa, Lamezia Terme, Milan Malpensa,

Naples, Palermo, Pisa, Reggio Calabria, Turin, Trieste, Venice

and Verona) and to 9 international destinations (Athens,

Barcelona, Casablanca, Geneva, Larnaca, Madrid, Malaga,

Malta and Valencia).

From 12 June, Kenya Airways will inaugurate its four-flightsper-week

service between Nairobi’s Jomo Kenyatta International

Airport and Rome-Fiumicino International Airport.

The domestic Italian desinations will also become available at

that time. Kenya Airways other codeshare flights became

available for sale on 14 March.


China Office Moved in Beijing

Having relocated its office to new premises in Beijing, Kenya

Airways is now operating a direct sales office in China.

This is another new milestone for the airline.

“China is one of the biggest markets we have built over the

years, and our new office will strengthen business relationships

and contribute towards sustainable development of

Africa which is in line with our core purpose as a company,”

said Chris Wang, Area Manager Asia Pacific.

The new Beijing office is now located at Unit No.903A of

Building A, Phoenix Place, No.5 ShuGuang XiLi, ChaoYang

District in Beijing. The new contact details are: tel. +86-10-

64687599, and email:

The launch of the office was graced by Education Counsellor,

Embassy of the Republic of Kenya Reuben A.P. Kipturgo;

guests from Sino-African Chamber of Commerce; the China

representative of Kenya Tourism Bureau; Travel Sky; ticketing

agents in northern China; travel agencies; and corporates.

Indeed, besides being a target market for the tourism industry,

China has emerged as a key trading partner for African


“Our new office

in Beijing will

strengthen business


― Chris Wang ―

Area Manager Asia Pacific, Kenya Airways


Want to know the carbon

emission of your flight?


and click on the

carbon calculator.


✈ Kenya Airways now flies to

the Seychelles more often, with

seven direct flights each week.


Codeshare Opens

US market

National Carrier Kenya Airways has activated a

codeshare with Delta Airlines that will enable

seamless travel in the US and Canada.

Sergei Akulich on Unsplash

Business and leisure travelers will soon

be able to enjoy greater connectivity

and efficiency in 11 US cities and 4

Canadian cities (Canadian Government

Approval permitting).

The arrangement means that travellers

using the direct flight from Nairobi can

connect in New York to other cities

within the US and Canada; opening

many more opportunities at highly

competitive fares.

“As part of our commitment to the

New York route, we are proud to be a

part of this partnership that will open

up opportunities for our customers to

access more destinations in North

America through the John F. Kennedy

Airport,” said Group Managing Director

and CEO Kenya Airways Sebastian


According to Mikosz, the New York

route continues to be a strategic service

for Kenya Airways as it gears up for

Summer 2019 high season in the US.

Beginning June, Kenya Airways will be

looking to increase its frequency to

New York from 5 to 7 days a week.

The codeshare agreement is also in line

with Kenya Airways’ broader strategy

to assert its presence and expand connectivity

across Africa, while increasing

tourism, trade and investment.

In October 2018, Kenya Airways

launched its direct flights between

Nairobi and New York. This new route,

a first of it’s kind for East Africa, has

already led to an abundance of business

and leisure opportunities.



Want to know the carbon

emission of your flight?


and click on the

carbon calculator.


✈ Kenya Airways is working

with USAID to prevent the trafficking

of endangered species..

How many Miles did you

earn while flying to your

current destination? Find out

online with the Flying Blue

Miles Calculator.

Flying Blue

✈ There are new discounted reward

tickets, or Promo Awards, available

every month, saving you up

to 50 percent on Reward Miles.

Stakeholder forum

The Route to Rome

On 28 March, Kenya Airways hosted a stakeholder forum with

the Italian business community at the Italian Ambassador to

Kenya H.E. Mauro Massoni’s residence. The main purpose of

the forum was to understand the issues that are important to the

Italian business community as the airline evolves its strategy to

better meet expectations, while identifying market opportunities.

The first round table was moderated by the Italian Ambassador

and the Chief Commercial Officer Kenya Airways Ursula

Silling. Also present from the airline were Area Manager Kenya

Rose Kiseli and Area Manager East Africa (JV) & North Africa

Albert Abwoga who gave an elaborate product presentation to

the stakeholders. The meeting drew representation from the

business community, leaders from the missionaries and religious

groups, and the infrastructure, tourism and energy sectors.

When Kenya Airways’ new Rome route opens on 12 June, the

Italian capital will be the most southerly entry point for the

airline into Europe and will tap once more into the lucrative

Italian holiday market.

“The Pride of Africa

flies to 53 destinations


Empowering women



Wildlife Works, Kenya Airways’ carbon-offsetting

partner, has been working with communities living in

the Kasigau Corridor in Tsavo to address challenges

and improve food security in the region.

With conventional agriculture being the leading source of

livelihoods here, farmers often have little to smile about due to

ever-changing weather patterns.

Through its greenhouse department, Wildlife Works has been

hosting various women’s groups in the project area to teach

them about environmentally friendly agricultural practices.

Every week different women’s groups are provided with training

on organic farming methods, drought resistant crops,

crop rotation and vertical farming. These practices are aimed

at using less space and less water while reducing reliance on

fertilisers, and producing better yields.

After the training, the women will use these techniques in

their homesteads and teach them other women's groups. This

will in turn provide them with alternative economic activities.

Empowering women with improved agricultural techniques is

helping them to take a step towards eradicating poverty and

hunger in their communities.

Membership levels




The Flying Blue frequent flyer programme allows you to earn

Miles for every flight you take with Kenya Airways, Air France,

KLM, Joon, HOP!, Transavia, Aircalin, TAROM, SkyTeam

members, or other airline partners. You can redeem your Miles

to fly with Kenya Airways or upgrade your seats to Business


There are four membership levels in Flying Blue, and with each qualifying

flight you take, you gain XP (Experience Points). When you first enrol,

you will be awarded Explorer status, which progresses to Silver, Gold and

ultimately Platinum. The more you travel with Kenya Airways or one of

our partner airlines, the higher your level becomes, which results in you

earning more Miles and enjoying more benefits.

Miles can be redeemed for flights to destinations operated by Kenya

Airways or our partner airlines. Go for an upgrade of your seat or pay

for your hotel stay or car rental with Miles. Your accumulated Miles are

valid for life as long as you take an eligible flight at least once every two

years. The total number of Miles credited to your account on Kenya Airways-marketed

flights is based on distance, the booking class earning

percentage, and the Elite bonus earning percentage, if applicable.

~ Enrol now and start to enjoy the benefits Flying Blue has to offer.

Go to for more information and to sign up.



Reward Miles can be redeemed for a flight to

any Kenya Airways destination or an upgrade to

Business Class.



Your choice of destination determines the

number of Miles required for your Reward ticket.

Log on to to check if you have

sufficient Miles for your choice. It is advisable

to have flexible date options in case your initial

choice is not available.



Once you have made your choice, you can

redeem your Reward Miles by two methods:

A. Call the Kenya Airways contact centre in Nairobi

on +254 20 327 4747; +254 734 104747

or +254 711 024747.

B. Visit and go to Loyalty Program,

Flying Blue, Earn and Spend.

For further information, you can always contact us at



Reward Miles do not cover tax charges. These

will need to be paid for separately and this can be

done so via credit card, M-Pesa or a cash payment

at any Kenya Airways office.


Easy Does It

Five steps to make

the most of your Miles.


Once payment has been received, your e-ticket

will be sent to you by email.

~ Reward tickets are subject to seat availability. The

number of Miles required varies depending on available

booking class.

― Sebastian Mikosz ―

Group Managing Director and

CEO Kenya Airways

~ Offset your carbon With your KQ flight you can help to protect

the environment. Simply tick a box when booking to offset carbon

emissions per journey. Funds go to initiatives in conjunction with

Wildlife Works. Visit to find out more.

~ Miles can be used for flights and for upgrades to

Business Class when you have already purchased

an Economy Class Kenya Airways ticket on

Y,B,M,U,K,H,L,Q,T,R,N & V classes for all routes. All

upgrades are subject to seat availability in Business Class.


SkyTeam operates more than

17,000 departures a day to 1,080+

destinations in 170+ countries,

and offers SkyTeam members 750

lounges in airports worldwide.


✈ Founded in June 2000, SkyTeam is a

major airline alliance that consists of 19

carriers from 5 continents.

SkyTeam City insider

Explore The World

Like a Local

When it comes to exploring a new city, there’s only so far a guidebook can

take you. Flight attendants from SkyTeam’s 19 member airlines are some of

the most-travelled people on the planet; so who better to ask for travel tips?

“Riding a bike is the quintessential

Dutch experience. Cycle around

Rotterdam and check out the amazing

architecture that gives it the

nickname, Manhattan on the Maas”

KLM, Juliet, Amsterdam

“Visit the Karen Blixen Museum, home of the

Danish author who wrote the book: Out of

Africa. Just outside Nairobi, it offers a fascinating

look at the life of the literary legend”

Kenya Airways, Clara, Nairobi

“I love hanging out at Cong

Cafe Phan Xich Long. It’s a

simple, rustic place with

good food and strong coffee”

Vietnam Airlines, Selena, Ho Chi

Minh City

“Chantilly, the horse racing

capital of France, is a 25-minute

train ride from Paris. Visit

the prestigious racecourse and

its extraordinary castle”

Air France, Sophie, Paris

For more travel inspiration visit or find us on

Instagram @skyteamalliance



Global Network

Kenya Airways Fleet













Kenya Airways

will begin flying

to Rome (Italy) and

Geneva (Switzerland)

from Nairobi’s Jomo

Kenyatta International

Airport in June.

Boeing 787 Dreamliner

Aircraft 7; Seats Economy 204, Premier 30; Crew 14;

Seat pitch Economy 32”; Premier 75”; Max. take-off weight

227,930kg; Fuel capacity 126,903 litres; Range 14,500km;

Typical cruising speed at 35,000ft Mach 0.85; Thrust per

engine at sea level 69,800lbs; Wing span 60.1m; Length

56.7m; Interior cabin width 5.49m

New York





























































Dar es Salaam




























Boeing 737-800

Aircraft 8; Seats Economy 129, Premier 16; Crew 8;

Seat pitch Economy 32”, Premier 47”; Max. take-off weight

79,015kg; Fuel capacity 26,020 litres; Range 5,665km; Typical

cruising speed at 35,000ft Mach 0.78; Thrust per engine at

sea level 26,400lbs; Wing span 34.3m; Length 39.5m;

Interior cabin width 3.53m

Boeing 737-700

Aircraft 2; Seats Economy 100, Premier 16; Crew 7;

Seat pitch Economy 32”, Premier 40”; Max. take-off weight

70,080kg; Fuel capacity 26,020 litres; Range 6,225km;

Typical cruising speed at 35,000ft Mach 0.785;

Thrust per engine at sea level 26,400lbs; Wing span 34.3m;

Length 33.6m; Interior cabin width 3.53m



Chantal van Wessel/Vizualism



Cape Town

Embraer 190

Aircraft 15; Seats Economy 84, Premier 12; Crew 7;

Seat pitch Economy 31”, Premier 38”; Max. take-off weight

51,800kg; Fuel capacity 16,153 litres; Range 2,935km;

Typical cruising speed at 35,000ft Mach 0.82; Thrust per

engine at sea level 20,000lbs; Wing span 28.72m;

Length 36.24m; Interior cabin width 2.74m



The Nairobi National Park

stopover package allows guests

travelling on flight KQ101 from

London Heathrow to enjoy a

wildlife tour during their transit.

Welcome to Kenya

✈ Passengers travelling in

a group of at least ten

(economy cabin) or five

(business cabin), can

request for a group fare.




Practical tips

Getty Images

Getting around

On Arrival


Jomo Kenyatta International Airport is about a 30-minute drive away

from Nairobi city. Moi International Airport, Mombasa is a 20-minute

drive to Mombasa city. More time is needed during rush hour.


Most visitors to Kenya require a visa. Multiple and single entry visas are

available. You can apply at any Kenya High Commission or Embassy

prior to travelling. The single entry visa (obtainable upon arrival at the

airport) is US$50 (correct at time of print) or the equivalent in local currency.

You will also require a passport that is valid for three months from

the moment of entry.


Emergency services

Dial 999. Note that

ambulance services are

mostly private. Services

include: St Johns

Ambulance +254 72 161

1555 or Kenya Red

Cross Ambulance

+254 71 771 4938.


Nairobi and Mombasa

have good hospitals.

Medical expenses

Make sure you have

adequate travel health

insurance and accessible

funds to cover the cost of

any medical treatment.

Consultations and

treatments will have to

be paid for at the time,

and the costs claimed

back later.



240 volts AC, using


13-amp-type plugs.


It is advisable not to walk

alone in isolated areas

in towns or on beaches,

particularly after dark.


Tips are appreciated. Most

hotels/restaurants add a

10 percent service charge.


It is wise to drink or use

only boiled or bottled water,

and to avoid ice in drinks.


Traffic adheres to the lefthand

side of the road, and

most cars are right-hand

drive. A current driving

licence with photograph is

accepted for up to a threemonth


Public transport

Nairobi is the only city with

an effective municipal bus

What & How

service. Local (private)

matatus are the main

means of getting around.

Taxi service Uber operates

in Nairobi and Mombasa.


Taking photographs of

official buildings, including

embassies, can lead to

detention. Photography is

also prohibited at airports.

Embassies & consulates

All embassies are

located in Nairobi.


You must carry a valid form

of ID with you at all times.

Post office

Open 8 a.m. to 5 p.m.,

Mondays to Fridays; and 9

a.m. to 12 noon Saturdays.


Phone cards may be

bought from post offices

or international call

offices. Emails can be sent

from most hotels.

Money matters


Kenyan shilling (KES)

Currency regulations

There are no restrictions on

the movement of currency

into or out of Kenya for

currency transactions.


Banks are generally open

from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.,

Mondays to Fridays;

and 9 a.m. to 12 noon

Saturdays. Banks in

coastal towns open

and close half an hour

earlier. Most ATMs accept

international VISA cards.

Credit cards

Visa and MasterCard are

widely accepted.

Hotel bill payment

Pay in Kenyan shillings or

convertible currency.

Most hotels also accept

credit cards.







Songot 1755 m








2149 m










Matthew’s Peak



2375 m

Mt Elgon


National Park





3167 m



Mt Elgon

Kerio Valley


Shaba National

4322 m

National Reserve



Archer’s Post



Buffalo Springs

Forest Reserve

Lake Bogoria Isiolo




National Reserve




Ndere Island


National Park



Mt Londiani

Rusinga Island


3000 m



Mt Kenya


Lake Nakuru

5199 m













Hell’s Gate




National Park

Mt Longonot 2777 m





Longonot National Park





Oi Donyo National Park

Masai Mara


National Reserve



Chantal van Wessel

















Mt Kulal 2285 m


Head Office Airport North Road, Embakasi

P.O. Box: 19002 – 00501 Nairobi, Kenya, Tel +254 (0)20 6422000,

Safaricom +254 0711 02 2000, Airtel +254 0734 10 2000

Contact Centre (24 hours) Tel +254 (0)20 3274747

Safaricom +254 0711 02 4747, Airtel +254 0734 10 4747


JKIA Sales Office Terminal 1C – International Departures

Tel +254 (0)20 6423506/8,

Terminal 1D – Domestic Departures Tel +254 (0)20 6423570

Baggage Services Tel +254 0737 33 3954




Chyulu Game




National Park

Mt Kilimanjaro 5895 m











Tsavo West



















Shimba Hills






Tana River

Primate National


Malka Mari




Malindi Marine


National Park




Watamu Marine

National Park


Kisite Marine National Park

Kisite Marine National Park













100 km



From Kenya, with love

Say It With Flowers

text: Annemarie Hoeve image: Shutterstock

A symbol for love and eternal

beauty, the rose is arguably one

of the world’s most iconic flowers.

And if you’re lucky enough

to be gifted a bouquet, it’s likely

to have come from Kenya.

It is with great pride that Kenya is the

world’s third largest exporter of cut

flowers. The Eastern African nation is also

Europe’s biggest supplier of roses, with

most of the sustainably grown blooms

making their way to the Netherlands,

Britain and Germany. So how do they

get there? On board a KQ flight, of


As a result of the booming rose

sector – the country’s second largest

agricultural export behind tea – KQ

Cargo has established a cool-chain

infrastructure to ensure fresh delivery

of its prized roses. With a dedicated

terminal at Nairobi airport, Kenya is

a hub of flower-exporting activity.

Roses by numbers

120,000 tonnes of flowers are

exported by Kenya every year.

500,000 jobs are provided by the

Kenyan flower sector.

63 billion Kenya shillings

(US$616m) is the estimated worth

of Kenya’s floriculture trade.


KQ won the Best

Business Class in

Africa for five years

in a row from World

Travel Awards.

Get Comfortable

✈ KQ received an International

Safety Award in 2016 and 2017

from the British Safety Council.

What you need to know

Flight Mode


Please watch the safety demonstration before

take-off and refer to the leaflet in your seat

pocket. Smoking is prohibited on all flights.

Electronic devices including laptops, tablets

and mobile phones may not be used during

take-off and landing.

Hand luggage

Place hand luggage in the overhead storage

or beneath the seat in front of you. Cabin crew

will remove hand luggage from passengers

seated in exit rows for take-off and landing.

1 Get a good night’s sleep, eat a light

meal and take some gentle exercise

before your flight.


On The Move

Six top tips for a healthy and comfortable journey

2 Wear comfortable clothing and shoes.

3 Keep your circulation going by standing

up and walking in the aisle when

possible. Flex muscles in your feet, arms,

shoulders and neck.

4 Low cabin humidity on longer

journeys can cause dry eyes, nose and

throat. Remove contact lenses and apply

“To get lost is to

learn the way”

– African proverb –

moisturiser and lip balm. Avoid salt,

drink plenty of water and moderate

your intake of alcohol, tea and coffee.

5 When travelling across time zones

your body’s sleep rhythms can become

disrupted, leading to insomnia, loss of

appetite and fatigue. Try to give yourself

some time to adjust to new night and

day cycles when you arrive.

6 On arrival spend as much time as

possible outside. Sunlight helps your

body to adjust to a new time zone.

Seat adjustments

Ensure your seat is upright for take-off and



Baby-changing tables can be found in

selected toilets. The crew will help prepare

baby food. Cots are available on some flights.

Inflight service

A hot meal is normally served during longhaul

flights. Special-diet or vegetarian meals

are available when pre-ordered. There is a

courtesy inflight bar service for wine, beer,

spirits and soft drinks.


Seat-back entertainment featuring a range of

movies and music is available on our long- and

medium-haul flights. Please refer to the IFE

guide in Msafiri.


The aircraft climbs steeply immediately after

take-off. Shortly afterwards you will hear

a reduction in the engine sound, while the

aircraft continues to climb. All aircraft cabins

are pressurised. Due to a change in pressure

during take-off and landing, some passengers

may experience slight discomfort in their ears.

Relieve this by swallowing, yawning or pinching

the nostrils gently, while keeping lips sealed.


After touchdown you may hear an increase in

engine noise due to the reverse thrust applied

to assist braking. Remain seated until the

engines are off and the doors are open.

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