British Travel Journal | Summer 2019
Hooray it’s the summer! – and all we want to do is travel - to see as much of the British Isles in this glistening sunshine as we possibly can, and with tourism in the UK rising rapidly from previous years, it seems we are not alone.... Inside this issue we tour the new South West Coast 300 driving route in Scotland, Nathan Outlaw takes our food columnist, Chantal Borciani on a gourmand’s tour of the spectacular Cornish coastline, we visit the wonderful new Machrie Hotel on the Isle of Islay, ‘In search of Scotch Whisky’, we go behind-the-scenes at Wimbledon, learn to ride the waves at surfer’s paradise, Fistral Beach, Newquay, we join a cookery class to improve the culinary skills, find adventure after-dark with our 10 unique experiences - and not to mention all of our regulars too - with the latest Travel News, What's On Cultural Agenda, and featured destinations and travel itineraries we hope will inspire you to book that holiday you have been dreaming of too!
Hooray it’s the summer! – and all we want to do is travel - to see as much of the British Isles in this glistening sunshine as we possibly can, and with tourism in the UK rising rapidly from previous years, it seems we are not alone.... Inside this issue we tour the new South West Coast 300 driving route in Scotland, Nathan Outlaw takes our food columnist, Chantal Borciani on a gourmand’s tour of the spectacular Cornish coastline, we visit the wonderful new Machrie Hotel on the Isle of Islay, ‘In search of Scotch Whisky’, we go behind-the-scenes at Wimbledon, learn to ride the waves at surfer’s paradise, Fistral Beach, Newquay, we join a cookery class to improve the culinary skills, find adventure after-dark with our 10 unique experiences - and not to mention all of our regulars too - with the latest Travel News, What's On Cultural Agenda, and featured destinations and travel itineraries we hope will inspire you to book that holiday you have been dreaming of too!
You also want an ePaper? Increase the reach of your titles
YUMPU automatically turns print PDFs into web optimized ePapers that Google loves.
BRITISH TRAVEL
JOURNAL
SUMMER 2019 | ISSUE 02
BritishTravelJournal.com
CITY | COAST | COUNTRY
sea to shore
GOURMAND’S TOUR
OF CORNWALL WITH
NATHAN OUTLAW
WIN
a luxury
short break
staying on
a floating
hotel!
weekend adventure
48 HOURS AT CORNWALL'S MOST FAMOUS
SURF DESTINATION, FISTRAL BEACH, NEWQUAY
blue sky thinking
DISCOVER WORLD-CLASS OPEN AIR THEATRE
LOCATIONS FROM CLIFF TOPS TO ABBEY RUINS
£5.00
EVENTS ■ IDYLLIC DESTINATIONS ■ MICHELIN STAR RESTAURANTS ■ LUXURY HOTELS ■ NEW EXPERIENCES
WHICH IS THE MOST ICONIC
HOTEL IN THE UK?
#Siblingrivalry
CHEWTON GLEN, HAMPSHIRE
CLIVEDEN HOUSE, BERKSHIRE
THE LYGON ARMS, COTSWOLDS
11 CADOGAN GARDENS, LONDON
ICONICLUXURYHOTELS.COM
EDITOR’S LETTER
C O N T R I B U T I O N S
BRITISH TRAVEL
JOURNAL
BritishTravelJournal.com
WELCOME
EDITORS
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Jessica Way
FEATURES EDITOR Samantha Rutherford
CHIEF SUB-EDITOR Angela Harding
EXPERT CONTRIBUTORS
FOOD & DRINK Chantal Borciani
ARTS & CULTURE Melanie Abrams
HISTORY & HERITAGE Robin Glover
SHOPPING & LIFESTYLE Emma Johnson
DESTINATION SPECIALIST Adrian Mourby
TRAVEL & ADVENTURE Max Wooldridge
AUTHENTIC TOURS Jules Mittra
OUTDOORS & EVENTS Felix Rowe
FRONT COVER IMAGE
The Headland Hotel
Fistral Beach, Newquay, Cornwall
headlandhotel.co.uk
PUBLISHED BY
CONTISTA MEDIA
Mitchell House, Brook Avenue, Warsash,
Southampton, SO31 9HP
MAIN SWITCHBOARD 01489 660680
contistamedia.co.uk
KEEP IN TOUCH
BritishTravelJournal
BTravelJournal
PROUD TO BE IN PARTNERSHIP WITH
HOORAY IT’S THE SUMMER! – and
all I want to do is travel – I want to
see as much of the British Isles in this
glistening sunshine as I possibly can,
and with tourism in the UK rising rapidly from
previous years, it seems I am not alone.
While it’s always fun to take time out exploring
our stunning landscapes and visiting our cultural
attractions, when the weather is warm, it adds so
much more to the enjoyment of the experience.
Like touring the new South West Coast 300 driving route in Scotland for example –
watching a beautiful sunset each evening, stopping off to enjoy ice-cream, and walking
barefoot along the beach, p48.
Our food columnist, Chantal Borciani, has been enjoying the coast too, with
my second favourite ‘s’ of the summer, ‘seafood’ – Nathan Outlaw takes her on a
gourmand’s tour of the spectacular Cornish coastline, p30. I was lucky enough to visit the
wonderful new Machrie Hotel on the Isle of Islay, which you can read more about in our
‘In search of Scotch Whisky’ feature, p42.
Heading further inland, in anticipation of the Championships, the Grand Slam tennis
tournament, we are behind-the-scenes at Wimbledon, p36 – where we look forward
to biting on some delicious strawberries while watching the challengers to defending
champions Novak Djokovic and Angelique Kerber.
Trying your hand at something new is an essential part of every travel writers agenda
– and highlights this season include; playing on the new Padel courts at Stoke Park, p11;
learning to ride the waves at surfer’s paradise, Fistral Beach, Newquay, p70; joining a
cookery class to improve the culinary skills, p86; and finding adventures after-dark with
our 10 unique experiences, p22.
Luxury hotels and places to stay have not gone unnoticed this season either, as
we visit the hotel Meghan and Harry chose for their private getaway, Heckfield Place,
p80; bring you a round-up of some of the finest coastal retreats, p84; and offer you the
opportunity to win an unforgettable stay in a beautifully styled cabin aboard Edinburgh’s
new floating hotel, Fingal, p26!
Together with our regular Travel News, p11, Cultural Agenda, p15, and travel
itineraries, from p48, I hope this issue of British Travel Journal continues to inspire your
upcoming travel plans – and that the sun keeps shining! Wishing everyone a wonderful
summer. u
Jessica x
Contista Media Ltd cannot accept responsibility for
unsolicited submissions, manuscripts and photographs.
While every care is taken prices and details are subject to
change and Contista Media Ltd take no responsibility for
omissions or errors. We reserve the right to publish
and edit any letters. All rights reserved.
Jessica Way, Editor-In-Chief
Jessica@britishtraveljournal.com
BritishTravelJournal.com 3
Do sEThiG
MigT
A fantastic series of fully supported, one-day hiking marathons all
over the UK. Every Mighty Hike is easily accessible and will take
you to some of the most beautiful and unspoiled parts of our country.
Bring your family, bring your friends and take a step forward for people
living with cancer.
Find out more and sign up at
macmillan.org.uk/mightyhikes
Macmillan Cancer Support, registered charity in England and
Wales (261017), Scotland (SC039907) and the Isle of Man (604).
Also operating in Northern Ireland.
30
CONTENTS
SUMMER 2019 | ISSUE 02
Fingal, Edinburgh
Jubilee Pool Penzance
36
The Championships, Wimbledon
26
C O M P E T I T I O N
26
WIN A NIGHT
OF LUXURY
IN EDINBURGH...
We are offering you and
your companion the
chance to stay aboard
Fingal, in Edinburgh,
including tickets to The
Royal Yacht Britannia
with a delicious
Champagne Cream Tea!
JOTTINGS
11
TRAVEL NEWS
A look at what’s new, and travel
noteworthy, in the British Isles.
CULTURAL AGENDA
15Dates for your diary of things you
don’t want to miss out on this summer.
10 UNIQUE EXPERIENCES
22 YOU MUST TRY AFTER DARK
Moonwalks, night running, star-gazing,
late-evening kayaking, rope-swinging...
Finding the fun when the lights go down!
29 VICTUALS
Discover what’s new in the scene
of British hospitality, Michelin-star chefs,
restaurants, hotels and spas.
FEATURES
30
NATHAN OUTLAW:
SEA TO SHORE
Michelin star-chef Nathan Outlaw takes our
food columnist on a gourmand’s tour of the
wonderful Cornish coastline.
TOP SEEDS: BEHIND THE
36 SCENES AT WIMBLEDON
Welcome to Wimbledon – one of the world’s
most prestigious British sporting spectacles.
IN SEARCH OF
42 SCOTCH WHISKY
There are many reasons to visit Scotland, but
its popular whisky industry is surely one of the
best! We take a look at the brands and which
distilleries to visit. à
BritishTravelJournal.com 5
E D I T O R B U Y S
48
Diamond Reef
Knot Pendant
£1,160
sheilafleet.com
ITINERARIES
48
SCOTLAND’S SOUTH
WEST COAST 300
Jessica Way explores the magnificent beauty
of the new SWC300 touring route - a stunning
drive of over 300 miles along the coast of
South West Scotland.
THE GREAT WEST WAY
56 England’s first ever touring route,
destined to become one of the premier
routes in Europe, and probably the world.
IN FOCUS: PETWORTH
64 Discover this pretty historic market
town, home to the National Trust’s Petworth
House and Park, West Sussex.
WEEKEND BREAK: FISTRAL
70 BEACH, NEWQUAY
A surf paradise serving the country’s finest
pasties – it’s no wonder this Cornish coastline
is home to one of the nation's favourite
seaside towns.
Loudoun Hill and the
Spirit Of Scotland
sculpture by Richard
Price, near Darvel,
East Ayrshire
© VisitScotland/ Paul Tomkins
GIFT TO ALL
SUBSCRIBERS!
Subscribe to British Travel Journal
today and receive the ultimate in travel
size luxury toiletries - worth £20!
See page 40 for more or visit:
britishtraveljournal.com
/subscribe 40
LIFESTYLE
75 INVESTOR
There has never been a more provident
time to invest in Modern British Art – owning a
piece of British art history, buying something
beautiful, that may eventually provide a return
on your investment.
HECKFIELD PLACE
80 Chantal Borciani discovers the hotel
Meghan and Harry chose for their private
getaway – An exquisite new hotel redefining
British country stays.
ESCAPE TO THE COAST
84 Stay in a beautiful beach lodge, chic
apartment or exquisite cottage, where you can
listen to the waves, just steps from the beach,
looking out to magnificent views.
DAY TRIPPER
86
COOKERY SCHOOLS
Whether you are a budding chef
wanting to finesse your culinary skills or you
just want to try something new, a course at
one of the UK’s best cookery schools is a must.
BLUE SKY THINKING:
92 OPEN AIR THEATRE
From cliff tops to abbey ruins, witness worldclass
open-air theatre this summer at a range
of iconic British locations.
FOR YOUR JOURNEY
98 Latest books, travel gadgets and our
British travel inspired crossword.
6 BritishTravelJournal.com
WE A RE...
THE D ISCOVERERS
NAVI GATE OUR SEA
KINGDOM WHERE IS
WOND ERS MEET THE
…wandering the enchanted glens
with the breeze that travels over
plains and mountains, to the towering
chasms that cascade to the depths
of our emerald sea.
Imagine a place where we, the Discoverers,
roam through landscapes carved by Mother Nature
and lit by distant stars. We stroll along coastal
paths kissed by the dramatic seascapes that
surround our magical Island, seek out the
unexpected and the extraordinary, and wake
up in sublime surroundings where we are
reminded how life should be.
ROUTE KEY
PLANE
FERRY
WHO
BOUND
LAND
WATER...
THE GREAT BRITISH ESCAPE!
STOKE PARK
Stoke Park is a luxury 5 AA Red Star Hotel, Spa and Country Club set within 300
acres of beautiful parkland and offers world-class sporting and leisure facilities.
FACILITIES INCLUDE:
• 49 Bedrooms and Suites
• Award winning Spa
• 27 hole Championship Golf
Course
• David Leadbetter Golf Academy
• 3 Restaurants and Bars, including
Humphry’s (3 AA Rosettes)
• 13 Tennis Courts (indoor, grass
and artificial clay)
• 2 Padel Courts
• Indoor Pool
• State-of-the-art Gym with Fitness,
Hot Yoga and Spinning Studios
hosting up to 50 classes per week
• Tinies Kids Club and Crèche
• Games Room
• Playground
For Hotel Reservations please call 01753 717171 or email reservations@stokepark.com
Stoke Park, Park Road, Stoke Poges, Buckinghamshire SL2 4PG | www.stokepark.com
TRAVEL NEWS
W H A T ' S N E W
Destinations | Renovations | Launches | Celebrations
QUEEN OF THE HEBRIDES
The Machrie Hotel and Links on the
stunning Isle of Islay, nestled beside seven
miles of pristine beach, has now opened.
campbellgrayhotels.com
See also
page 45
BE ONE OF THE FIRST TO TRAVEL ON THE NEW CALEDONIAN SLEEPER!
New Caledonian Sleeper carriages have now been unveiled on the Lowlander route between
London and Glasgow/Edinburgh, and on the Highlander route between London and Aberdeen,
Inverness and Fort William. Designed to accommodate the modern-day traveller, the new trains
offer rooms with double beds and en-suites – for the first time in the history of Caledonian
Sleeper. Other new features include a hotel-style keycard entry system, charging panels and
WiFi throughout the train. To find out more or to book a journey visit sleeper.scot
STEAM DREAMS
A new vintage steam train service (from
4 June) offers journeys from London’s
Waterloo Station to Windsor with
elegant Pullman Style Dining carriages.
royalwindsorsteamexpress.co.uk
A SOLID SOLUTION
WE LOVE
PIONEERING IN PADEL
With predictions the sport is on the cusp of a
British breakthrough, Stoke Park has become the
first 5 Star Hotel in the UK to open Padel courts
for members and guests staying in the hotel.
stokepark.com
HAWKSTONE HALL
This magnificent Grade I listed 18th Century
mansion in Shropshire, set within 88 acres, has
for the first time in its 550 year history, opened its
doors as a luxurious 37-bedroom hotel.
hawkstonehall.co.uk
These solid beauty bars mean no more
liquids and no more leaks when travelling!
ethiqueworld.com
BritishTravelJournal.com 11
TRAVEL NEWS
TRIPLE WIN FOR YORKSHIRE
Yorkshire Sculpture Park might have
only just opened its new £3.6 million
visitor centre, The Weston, but it's already
winning, with three awards, from this
year's RIBA Yorkshire Awards. ysp.org.uk
SUNDAY MOVIE CLUB SHOWING ICONIC BRITISH CLASSICS
Sunborn London has announced the re-launch of their Sunday Movie Club, with the
new theme – Best of British. Enjoy Afternoon Tea followed by a screening of some of the
most classic and well known movies of all time, including; Four Weddings and a Funeral,
The King’s Speech, Bridget Jones’ Diary and many more, held in the grand, spacious
auditorium located in the bow of the boat. Open to hotel residents and visitors to the
yacht alike. Sunborn London is located adjacent to the ExCel centre and close to local
attractions including the O2, Greenwich and the Emirates Air Line. Traditional Afternoon
Tea with Laurent Perrier tasting and movie is priced £50 per person sunbornlondon.com
WINDERMERE JETTY LAUNCH
The brand new museum of boats, steam
and stories where visitors can sail on
Osprey, a fully-restored Edwardian
steam launch, has now opened its doors.
windermerejetty.org
INSTAGRAM HIGHLIGHT
"The Kelpies, 30-metre-high statues can
be visited free at The Helix (Falkirk). The
largest equine sculptures in the world..."
instagram.com/britishtraveljournal
FIFTY OF THE UK'S FINEST HOTELS HAVE BEEN FOUND
For the first time in its 37-year history, Pride of Britain Hotels has reached its self-imposed
limit of 50 hotels, with the introduction of The Royal Crescent Hotel & Spa, Bath, into its
collection of luxury independently-owned hotels - while Calcot & Spa, set within 220
acres of meadowland in the Cotswolds, has been named Pride of Britain Hotel of the Year
2019 for delivering outstanding hospitality. prideofbritainhotels.com
#britishtraveljournal
12 BritishTravelJournal.com
EXPERIENCE MORE
WITH PRIDE OF BRITAIN HOTELS
ON THE COAST
DISCOVER ALL OUR EXPERIENCES ONLINE TODAY
www.prideofbritainhotels.com/experiences
THE ART OF GREAT HOSPITALITY
Independently Owned | Luxury & Boutique Hotels | 50 Member Hotel Limit
0808 250 3121 • prideofbritainhotels.com
Unforgettable Cornwall Holidays
DISCOVER YOUR CORNISH GEM
Let Cornish Gems set the scene for your holiday highlife in Cornwall.
Choose from 180 luxury holiday homes offering beautiful settings for groups of up to 20.
BEACH APARTMENTS • COUNTRY HOUSES • COASTAL COTTAGES • DOG FRIENDLY
cornishgems.com | 01872 241 241
CULTURAL AGENDA
H O T T H I S S E A S O N
Exhibitions | Museums | Galleries | Shows | Events
Words | Melanie Abrams
HIGHLIGHT
Colour and Light: The
Art and Influence of the
Scottish Colourists
18 OCTOBER
2019-JANUARY 2020
Featuring at the Lake District's
Abbot Hall Art Gallery
this exhibition presents the
work of and influences of
Scottish Colourists... centred
on master-works from the
renowned Fleming Collection
which is the finest collection
of Scottish art outside public
museums and institutions. It
follows their major summer
show of Turner and Ruskin (p18)
abbothall.org.uk
à
S J Peploe, Luxembourg Gardens, c. 1910, The Fleming Wyfold Collection
BritishTravelJournal.com 15
A Midsummer Night's Dream at Shakespeare's Rose
Theatre, York. Photo by Ant Robling Photography
T H E A T R E & S H O W S
WHAT WE'RE BOOKING
Shakespeare’s Rose Theatre
25 JUNE-01 SEPTEMBER (YORK)
08 JULY-07 SEPTEMBER (BLENHEIM PALACE)
13th century Clifford’s Tower in York and
Blenheim Palace in Oxfordshire form the
backdrops for a summer of Shakespeare. See
popular works like Hamlet and Macbeth in a
pop up playhouse inspired by the bard’s 1587
Rose Theatre. Whilst the surrounding re-created
Elizabethan villages set the medieval mood.
shakespearerosetheatre.com
Jean Paul Gaultier: Fashion Freak Show
23 JULY-02 AUGUST
After over two million people visited his
exhibition, The Fashion World of Jean Paul
Gaultier, on its marathon global tour, the
provocative fashion designer is now telling
his story in cabaret. The extravagant,
unconventional show at London’s Southbank
Centre mirrors his fashion. Don your feathers
and corsets for this stylish party.
southbankcentre.co.uk
The Illusionists
06 JULY-01 SEPTEMBER
Abracadabra – The Illusionists re-appear at
London’s Shaftesbury Theatre. Among the mind
bending line-up are the stylish card tricks of Yo
Ho Jin and daredevil escapology by Jonathan
Goodwin who can also throw a knife or two.
Then there’s Adam Trent’s high tech tricks with
his music and comedy interludes. See them
before they disappear.
theillusionistslive.com
Uncle Vanya
18 JULY-03 AUGUST
Bath’s Grade II listed Georgian theatre hosts one
of this season’s most tantalising stage debuts.
Upper crust actor, Rupert Everett turns director
in a new version of Anton Chekhov’s Uncle
Vanya at the Theatre Royal by award-winning
playwright, David Hare. This re-mastered tale of
disruption and unrequited love also stars Everett.
theatreroyal.co.uk
Jean Paul Gaultier: Fashion Freak Show
The Illusionists: Card tricks of Yo Ho Jin
Rupert Everett to star in Uncle Vanya
Theatre Royal Bath
16 BritishTravelJournal.com
John Frederick Lewis: Blackburn, In the Bezestein,
El Khan Khalil, Cairo
E X H I B I T I O N S
WHAT WE'RE SEEING
Natalia Goncharova
06 JUNE-08 SEPTEMBER
Discover the breath-taking versatility of early
20th century Russian avant garde artist, Natalia
Goncharova, who has her first UK retrospective
at Tate Modern. Alongside her vivid paintings
and lithographs of Russian life, discover her book
designs, textiles and experimental costumes and
set designs for Sergei Diaghilev’s iconic Ballets
Russes including The Firebird.
tate.org.uk
Cindy Sherman 133.15 Untitled Film Still # 15
John Frederick Lewis
09 JULY-03 NOVEMBER
For an exotic tour of Cairo to Constantinople in
the 19th century, head to the Watts Gallery in
Compton village, Surrey which is showing the
oils and watercolours of British Orientalist artist,
John Frederick Lewis. His detailed vibrant images
bring alive his heady lifestyle from busy bazaars to
romantic gardens.
wattsgallery.org.uk
Keith Haring
14 JUNE-10 NOVEMBER
With the 1980s en vogue, head to Tate
Liverpool to immerse yourself in the decade.
For the dockside gallery is celebrating one of the
era’s poster boys, Keith Haring. Ahead of his
time, he even put subway drawings on gallery
walls. Alongside his cartoon-like works, his
collaborations with Madonna, Grace Jones and
other 80s icons are there too.
tate.org.uk
Cindy Sherman
27 JUNE-15 SEPTEMBER
The National Portrait Gallery is hosting
this summer’s blockbuster - the UK’s first
retrospective of American artist, Cindy Sherman.
Around 180 images of her manipulated selfies
since the 1970s will be on display including
her ground breaking Untitled Film Series,
Centerfolds and others never seen before.
npg.org.uk
Edouard Vuillard: The Poetry Of The
Everday
24 MAY-15 SEPTEMBER
Bath’s Holburne Museum is drenched in colour
this summer as 40 works by Post Impressionist,
Edouard Vuillard are on show. These intimate
scenes including his mother pinning her bun, two
women chatting and a game of shuttlecock show
how he turns the simplest activity into the most
emotionally charged scene.
holburne.org
© Victoria && Albert Museum, London
Natalia Goncharova's set design for the final scene of The Firebird Tseng Kwong Chi, Keith Haring in subway car, (New York) Edouard Vuillard's The Game of Shuttlecock
BritishTravelJournal.com 17
John Ruskin, Dawn, Coniston, 1873, Watercolour over pencil, acquired with the support
of a V&A Purchase Grant and the Friends of Abbot Hall Art Gallery, Kendal, Cumbria.
Ruskin, Turner And The Storm Cloud
12 JULY-05 OCTOBER
J.M.W. Turner’s stormy landscapes arrive at
Kendal’s 18th century Abbot Hall Art Gallery
in the Lake District, revealing a romantic view
of British hotspots from the Kent Medway to
Lancaster Sands. Alongside lesser known work
of Victorian art critic, John Ruskin, on the 200th
anniversary of his birth. The exhibition offers a
fresh take on Turner’s iconic works.
abbothall.org.uk
John Akomfrah
06 JULY-27 OCTOBER
The films of award winning British
artist John Akomfrah take centre
stage at the Baltic Centre for
Contemporary Art in Gateshead.
The immersive multi-channel
installations, celebrating black
identity, includes his deep dive into
the New Orleans jazz scene as well
as his poetic interpretation of a 16th
century Albrecht Dürer painting.
baltic.art
John Akomfrah, Peripeteia, 2012
Single channel HD colour video,
5.1 sound, 17 minutes 28 seconds
Courtesy of Smoking Dogs Films
and Lisson Gallery
18 BritishTravelJournal.com
A Tea Journey: From The Mountains
To The Table
06 JULY-22 SEPTEMBER
Afternoon tea is still chic – whether at The Ritz
or The Berkeley. Now Compton Verney is
exploring the cultural significance of this popular
drink with an ambitious exhibition – from 7th to
10th century Tang dynasty tea vessels, a 2010
bamboo and paper Japanese tea house by
Kazuhiro Yajima, to a model clipper and samples.
comptonverney.org.uk
After the Taking
of Tea, 2019 ©
Charlotte Hodes,
Photographer
Stephen Heaton
Phoebe
Cummings
Source (clay)
Bornholm
Kunstmuseum,
Denmark 2018
S H O P P I N G
WHERE WE'RE SPENDING
BRITISH
TRAVEL
JOURNAL
Loves...
Sheila Fleet Jewellery
Head to Princes Square,
Glasgow's award-winning retail
destination, for Sheila Fleet’s
brand new store, filled with her
stylish unique collections, inspired
by the beautiful islands of Orkney.
sheilafleet.com
Queen Victoria’s Palace
20 JULY-29 SEPTEMBER
Queen Victoria has barely disappeared from our
TV screens. Now Buckingham Palace’s summer
exhibition reveals how the young monarch
turned an unloved residence into today’s royal
headquarters. Amongst Royal Collection
artefacts, tap your foot to a waltz danced at the
Crimean Ball and marvel at the Ballroom’s original
decoration. rct.uk
WHERE WE'RE INVESTING
The Lakes by YOO
An idyllic estate in the Cotswolds, The Lakes by YOO,
is for the first time offering the opportunity to invest in
a state-of-the-art apartment, right on the water’s edge,
alongside its 130+ houses. These new £1m-plus threebed
apartments are to be fully-serviced by The Lakes
concierge and owners and guests have access to the
estate’s facilities. A unique investment opportunity – as
here you can buy the apartment, enjoy it and rent it out.
thelakesbyyoo.com
GANT'S 70th Birthday Collection
Inspired by the coastal living
lifestyle, numerous shades of ocean
blue dominate the color palette
of preppy American sportswear
brand GANT's 70th anniversary
collection. gant.co.uk
© Royal Collection Trust / © Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II
London Designer Outlet
Combining the best of online with
outlet shopping, Dropit is a new
shopping app available at London
Designer Outlet, offering a nifty
store-to-door delivery service of all
purchases made within its 50 stores
– and with the option to deliver to
homes, hotels or workplaces.
londondesigneroutlet.com
BritishTravelJournal.com 19
Wilderness Festival
Royal Ascot
© Third Light/
Getty Images
F A I R S & F E S T I V A L S
Henley Royal
Regatta
WHERE WE’RE PARTYING
Royal Ascot
18 JUNE-22 JUNE
Dress to impress at Royal Ascot – whether you
are invited to the Royal Enclosure or closer to the
horseracing action in the Queen Anne Enclosure.
Invest in new tails at New & Lingwood or a new
Stephen Jones hat. Be there at 2pm sharp to see
the royals on parade.
ascot.co.uk
Glastonbury Festival
26 JUNE-30 JUNE
The Killers, The Cure, Stormzy and even Kylie
are the headline acts at this year’s Glastonbury
Festival at Worthy Farm in Somerset. Whilst
the Pyramid Stage is where to hear the big guns,
experiment with up and coming music at the
John Peel Stage or underground beats at Babylon
Uprising.
glastonburyfestivals.co.uk
Henley Royal Regatta
03 JULY-07 JULY
What better way to spend a hot summer’s day
than by the banks of the River Thames in Henley
– watching the world and rowers go by with a
glass of fizz? Don your best blazer or tea dress for
the members’ only Stewards’ Enclosure or rock a
rowing look elsewhere.
hrr.co.uk
Masterpiece London Art Fair
27 JUNE-03 JULY
Nestling in the Royal Hospital Chelsea grounds
lies this top notch eclectic art and design fair.
Look for Banksy’s spray paint Kissing Coppers
at the Geoffrey Diner Gallery and Lyndsey
Ingram’s must see prints by Grayson Perry, the
Chapman Brothers and others. Whilst Hong
Kong jeweller, Cindy Chao will unveil her 2019
one-of-a-kind butterfly.
masterpiecefair.com
Edinburgh International Film Festival
19 JUNE-30 JUNE
Edinburgh might be colder than Cannes, but the
screenings at the city’s international film festival are
equally hot. Billy Elliott and The Hurt Locker have
been among them. Modern and cult Spanish films
are this year’s focus - kicking off with Tommy Smith
and the Scottish National Jazz Orchestra’s take on
Miles Davis’s Sketches of Spain.
edfilmfest.org.uk
Wilderness Festival
01 AUGUST-04 AUGUST
This Oxfordshire festival is one of the swankiest.
Amongst sets by Tom Odell, the reformed
Bombay Bicycle Club, there’s art, dance and
more. Activities range from horse-riding to
axe throwing. Whilst for ultimate zen, try
Paddleboard yoga or the spa. Posh food is on
offer too by top chefs.
wildernessfestival.com
20 BritishTravelJournal.com
WHAT WE’RE WATCHING
C U L T U R A L H I G H L I G H T S
Yesterday
28 JUNE
The Beatles and their music are the subject of
this summer’s Brit flick, Yesterday - as a struggling
musician (newcomer, Himesh Patel) takes credit
for their songs when he realises that no one else
has heard of them. Spot Liverpool’s Penny Lane
as one of the many British locations.
yesterdaymovie.com
WHAT WE’RE LISTENING TO
The 1975
It’s been a big year for Manchester quartet,
The 1975 - scooping top two BRIT awards for
British group and British album. Now we’re
eagerly waiting for their latest album, Notes
on a Conditional Form, to drop this summer.
Meanwhile, head to Glasgow, Leeds and
Reading in August to listen to them live.
the1975.com
© Universal Pictures
WHAT WE'RE DISCOVERING
Tendril Is The Night
27 JUNE-07 JULY
Glimpse into Chelsea’s cultural history with a visit to the
open studio home of sculptor turned potter, Kate Braine
at 20 Cheyne Row.Discover her colourful ceramics in the
Edwardian drawing room and beyond and her garden
kiln. With former homes of Mick Jagger and Marianne
Faithfull, Whistler and others nearby - it’s London’s
hidden cultural enclave.
#KateBrainePots
WHAT WE'RE READING
Take The Slow
Road: England &
Wales
Plan new ways to see England
and Wales with this lively book
on camper van and motorhome
trips by Martin Dorey published
by Conway. Discover 28 routes
and their hidden highlights like the
waterfalls en route from Harrogate
to Bolton Abbey or Blakeney
Point’s seal colony in North
Norfolk. Helpful tips include where
to eat, stay and the number of days
needed to explore.
bloomsbury.com
Rusty Orange Scorched Lava Alien Flowers
BritishTravelJournal.com 21
10
EXPERIENCES
of the best
UNIQUE
YOU MUST TRY
After Dark!
Not all of the UK goes
to sleep after dark, and
you don’t have to either.
The Museum of London
recently announced
it will open overnight
from 2023 but, until
then, here’s a selection
of adventures and
experiences to try when
the sun goes down:
Words | Max Wooldridge
S T A R G A Z I N G I N S C O T L A N D
1Head to Glenapp Castle to see clear night skies in their amazing
glory. Thanks to minimal pollution, Galloway Forest Park in
Ayrshire is home to some of Europe’s darkest skies. Join Glenapp’s
Stargazing Experience for hot chocolate, night binoculars and an
expert dark sky ranger who will explain everything on view: the
myriad of stars, the Milky Way, maybe even the Northern Lights.
glenappcastle.com
22 BritishTravelJournal.com
EXPERIENCES
D U N W I C H D Y N A M O
2
On 13/14 July, join hundreds of cycle
enthusiasts – on road bikes, tandems and
recumbents - for the Dunwich Dynamo, an annual
200km overnight ride from Hackney, in East
London, to the lost medieval city of Dunwich on
the Suffolk coast.
southwarkcyclists.org.uk
J E R S E Y M O O N W A L K S
3
At low tide, as the English Channel recedes, Jersey doubles in size to 116 square miles.
Discover underwater secrets on a fascinating night walk to Seymour Tower, a small fort
on an islet a mile offshore. See bioluminescent creatures and marine life across the exposed
rocky seabed by the light of a full moon. They are known as “moonwalks” after the terrain’s
resemblance to a lunar landscape. jerseywalkadventures.co.uk
© VisitScotland/ Paul Tomkins; National Trust Images / James Millar
N I G H T R U N N I N G - V A R I O U S L O C A T I O N S
4Fancy a moonlit jog through ancient woodlands or Georgian landscaped gardens? Each
autumn and winter, The National Trust hosts a programme of after-dark trail runs at a number
of its properties across the UK.
nationaltrust.org.uk
L U M I E R E F E S T I V A L
5
See local and global artists light up buildings
and public spaces in London, Durham
and other UK cities with light installations and
illuminations and large-scale projections. The UK’s
largest light festival, now in its 10th year, runs from
14-17 November 2019.
lumiere-festival.com
BritishTravelJournal.com 23
L O N D O N ’ S N I G H T
F O O D M A R K E T S
W I L D L I F E S P O T T I N G I N C A R M A R T H E N S H I R E
6
Spot nocturnal animals like otters, beavers and badgers in their natural habitat in a 300-acre
farm in Carmarthenshire. You’ll also be helping a not-for-profit wildlife company reintroduce
wild beavers in Wales. bevistrust.comk
N I G H T W A L K S A L O N G T H E
W A L L S O F L I N C O L N C A S T L E
7
Each month, between
May and November,
Lincoln Castle runs themed
evening tours of William the
Conqueror’s fine fortress.
Visit the castle’s Victorian
prison, see a medieval
cooking demonstration,
a falconry masterclass,
or take a wall walk for
twilight views of the city.
lincolncastle.com
8
London’s street food scene has enjoyed
nothing short of a revolution in recent
years, with many derelict and disused spaces
being transformed into night food markets. Try
Shoreditch’s Dinerama, Canary Wharf’s Giant Robot
and Lewisham's Model Market for mouth-watering
global cuisine. streetfeast.com
R O P E - S W I N G I N G
I N D A R K N E S S
9
Perfect your Tarzan call and take a leap in the
dark in North Yorkshire’s Dalby Forest. Go
Ape’s Adventures After Hours programme features
twilight zip-wires and the chance to get to grips with
the high ropes after dark. goape.co.uk
N I G H T K A Y A K I N G I N N O R F O L K
Experience some of the best night skies in
10 the UK on a full moon kayak adventure in
the heart of the Norfolk Broads. See the moon and
the stars reflected in the tranquil waters aboard an
easy-to-paddle two-seater kayak. The two-and-ahalf
hour adventure takes place on Hickling Broad
and the surrounding narrow reed bed backwaters.
norfolkoutdooradventures.co.uk
24 BritishTravelJournal.com
Discover hidden
treasures and
inspirational events
BRITAIN’S GREATEST PALACE
Birthplace of Sir Winston Churchill
blenheimpalace.com
Buy one day, get
12 months free*
NINE CENTURIES
IN THE MAKING
Discover a year of spectacular
events and new attractions to
mark our historic milestone.
CELEBRATING 900 YEARS
leeds-castle.com
29120 LC Generic 191x120mm.indd 1 02/05/2019 11:50
WIN
A NIGHT OF LUXURY
Staying aboard Fingal in Edinburgh
Enter our competition to win an indulgent five-star break for two,
with a truly Royal award-winning experience, in the Port of Leith
THE LUCKY WINNER, and their guest, will be welcomed
aboard Fingal, a luxury floating hotel permanently
berthed on Edinburgh’s vibrant waterfront, just a short
stroll to the shops, restaurants and galleries. Fingal
started life as a lighthouse tender, helping maintain lighthouses
and transporting their keepers, equipment and supplies to some
of the most treacherous locations in Scotland. Now she has been
transformed into an exquisite 23 cabin boutique hotel, with decks
for stargazing and Champagne, by the award winning team at
The Royal Yacht Britannia. This is where time slows to a gentle
deck stroll, where you can experience the unhurried luxury of life
on board ship and every contour and curve, every angle and tilt
26 BritishTravelJournal.com
▶
A Royal Day Out
including tickets to
THE ROYAL YACHT
BRITANNIA
WITH A DELICIOUS CHAMPAGNE CREAM TEA!
BRITISH
TRAVEL
JOURNAL
Competition!
of Fingal is certain to offer a totally unique
experience, far removed from your everyday world.
Just a short walk from the hotel, the lucky duo
will be further rewarded with a magnificent
‘Royal Day Out’, at Scotland’s Best Visitor
Attraction – The Royal Yacht Britannia, where
they will enjoy stunning panoramic waterfront
views, and a delicious Champagne Cream Tea
in the Royal Deck Tea Room. Britannia was
launched from the John Brown & Company
shipyard in Clydebank, Scotland, on 16 April,
1953. For over 44 years the Royal Yacht served
the Royal Family, travelling more than a million
nautical miles to become one of the most famous
ships in the world. To Her Majesty The Queen,
Britannia provided the perfect Royal residence
for glittering state visits, official receptions,
Royal honeymoons and relaxing family holidays.
For Great Britain, she was a majestic symbol of
the Commonwealth and a proud ambassador,
generating billions of pounds in trade deals.
For the Royal Family and the 220 dedicated
crew of Royal Yachtsmen, she was home. Step
aboard this famous ship and follow in the
footsteps of Royalty. Explore Britannia’s five
decks with the free audio guide, available in 30
languages, as well as a children’s tour and British
Sign Language tablet. See the elegant State
Apartments and the gleaming Engine Room.
See where Prince William and Prince Harry spent
their summer holidays. Discover where kings and
queens, world leaders and celebrities were wined
and dined; from Frank Sinatra and Liz Taylor to
Nelson Mandela and Sir Winston Churchill.
In the Royal Deck Tea Room you can enjoy freshly
prepared, homemade food, stunning views and
a warm welcome. Treat yourself with speciality
teas, coffees and lunch where the Royal Family
previously would have enjoyed drinks receptions,
sumptuous buffets, or played deck games. u
H O W T O E N T E R
ON OUR WEBSITE
britishtraveljournal.com
In addition to an overnight stay on
board Fingal, tickets to visit The Royal
Yacht Britannia, and a delicious
afternoon tea, the lucky winner will
also be sent a complimentary annual
subscription to British Travel Journal with
a Travel Trio gift set from Noble Isle.
LAST ENTRIES 31 AUGUST 2019
BritishTravelJournal.com 27
Alderney’s Stunning Backdrop
Alderney is bursting with flavour. From local
produce and rich creamy milk to seafood straight
from the islands clear waters, all of which is
stocked across the island’s shops and can be
enjoyed in our delightful cafes and restaurants.
Fresh Crab and Lobster
visitalderney.com
1-12 JULY
VICTUALS
W H A T ' S N E W
Restaurants | Food | Drink | Hotels
SCOTLAND’S FIRST VODKA
DISTILLERY EXPERIENCE
Located 20 miles north of Dundee, Ogilvy
Vodka – Scotland’s first potato vodka
distillery – has opened the doors of its new
£150K visitor centre. ogilvyspirits.com
SCALLOPS, SUNSHINE AND SPARKLING WINE!
Nyetimber Dorset Seafood Festival, one of the UK’s top seafood festivals, is set to take place
over the weekend of 13-14 July, along Weymouth’s historic and picturesque harbour.
The award-winning event, now in its 12th year, is free to attend and offers over 100 stalls of
seafood, chef demos, children’s activities and delicious English sparkling wine. Drawing crowds
of over 50,000 people, it is home to the top names in seafood producers, chefs, and
fishermen from Dorset and across the country. dorsetseafood.co.uk
FINE ENGLISH FIZZ
Digby Fine English has recently opened their
elegant new tasting room and cellar door in
the beautiful town of Arundel, West Sussex.
digby-fine-english.com
N E W
THE FLOATING SPA
Revitalise with this unique spa experience,
moored on the banks of the Monkey Island
Estate - a private island with 30 exquisite
guest rooms - now open in Bray-on-Thames.
monkeyislandestate.co.uk
MANDARIN ORIENTAL
Following a multi-million pound restoration,
Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, London has
now re-opened, and is honouring the hotel’s
illustrious 117-year history with a series of events.
mandarinoriental.com
We love this new cookbook priced £18, from
mezepublishing.co.uk and summery bottle of
2019 Babylonstoren Mourvèdre Rosé, priced
£14.90, from babylonstoren.com
BritishTravelJournal.com 29
I N T E R V I E W W I T H
NATHAN
OUTLAW
Sea to Shore
An esteemed culinary career ignited by the sea, Michelin
star wizard Nathan Outlaw takes food columnist Chantal
Borciani on a gourmand’s tour of the Cornish coastline!
AMASTER OF SEAFOOD and the
seasonal, Nathan Outlaw has
wowed food critics, trained under
the tutelage of top chefs, earned
his Michelin stars and stripes and is now
synonymous with the finest Cornish dining.
Widely regarded as Cornwall’s greatest
chef in residence, Nathan’s eponymous Port
Isaac fish restaurant holds two Michelin stars
and has also been crowned the UK’s top
restaurant in the 2019 Food & Drink Guide –
for the second year running. Not bad for a boy
who grew up hundreds of miles away in Kent.
The son of a chef, aged eight Nathan
was buttering toast during breakfast service
in his dad’s kitchen. He worked in kitchens
on evenings and weekends and his first job
out of Thanet’s catering college was at the
Intercontinental, followed by stints with
renowned chefs including Gary Rhodes and
Eric Chavot.
Passionate about seafood, Nathan soon
landed on Rick Stein’s doorstep in Padstow.
“It was 1996, and at the time there were only
really a handful of excellent fish restaurants
and Rick’s Seafood Restaurant was the place.
I just knew I had to do it. I told myself, if you're
going to work somewhere, work in the best
place in the world for seafood’, and that was
Rick's,” Nathan says. “It was a brilliant time
to be working there. It was manically busy but
good fun.”
Today, Nathan owns his two Michelin star
Restaurant Nathan Outlaw near Port Isaac
and Outlaw’s Fish Kitchen, located literally
metres down the road, which boasts another
coveted star. He usually spends a couple of
days a week in London, where he is slated to
open a new restaurant at The Goring hotel,
where Kate Middleton famously spent the
night before her wedding to Prince William.
“I'd be lying if I said I was ever not ready to
come back to Cornwall after a couple of days
in London. I mean, just look at it.” Nathan is
sitting by the kitchen pass in Port Isaac, and
gestures to the window where barrelling surf
races towards the Cornish shore and a winter’s
sunset floods the sky with crimson and mauve
spindles.
“I'd always had my eye on this building,”
30 BritishTravelJournal.com
he says of the Restaurant Nathan Outlaw
property, which overlooks the charming and
tiny bay of Port Gaverne. “I'll never leave
this place. And that's the first time I've ever
felt like that.”
Positively effervescent when it comes to
Cornish produce, Nathan eschews trends
and continues to write his set tasting menu
at Restaurant Nathan Outlaw everyday
depending on the catch that comes in.
For Nathan, who has made his home
in Cornwall, West Country traditions and
its bewitching landscape are all part of the
county’s rich allure.
“If you arrive on a Friday evening, head
to the pub. I like the St Kew Inn – it’s a real
Cornish hostelry that dates back to the 15th
century. You might be lucky and hear some
shanty songs being sung there.
“There are so many beautiful beaches
both on the north and south shores but
I tend to visit Trevone most. I like it there
because there are two beaches; one
sandy and one rocky so you get the
best of both worlds. I also like the little
beach just below my restaurant at Port
Gaverne. It’s tiny, but when the tide is
low you can explore all the rock pools
with the kids. I love walking along the
Camel Trail and the walk from Port
Isaac along to Port Quinn has amazing
views and will really blow away the
cobwebs."
A foodie through and through,
Nathan has recommendations for every
day of the week. “For a Saturday lunch
head to somewhere like Appletons at
Trevibban Mill vineyard and winery
where you can enjoy relaxed food food
in a beautiful setting.
The Lost Gardens of Heligan are
spectacular for a Saturday afternoon
stroll or the Eden Project has loads of
activities – you can zip line across the
entire place!”
If you’re a keen home cook, Nathan
recommends heading to the Port
Isaac Seafood School down by the à
BritishTravelJournal.com 31
32 BritishTravelJournal.com
With unmissable sights including nearby Marazion’s tidal
island and ancient castle of St Michael’s Mount, plus the
outlying microclimatic Isles of Scilly just a ferry hop away,
Penzance has never been short of reasons to visit.
harbour where George Cleave and
his team will show you the day’s catch
and give advice on how to prepare
and cook it.
“On Saturday night, head to
one of the really nice restaurants,
my one's pretty good!” Nathan
laughs. “And down the road at the
Outlaw’s Fish Kitchen of course. Paul
Ainsworth in Padstow is really good,
a lovely restaurant right in the centre
of the harbour town.
“There are some superb restaurants
if you want to head further afield, too.
I recently visited The Driftwood on the
Roseland peninsula – Chris Eden is
head chef there and is the only Michelin
star Cornish chef ever so that’s a bit
special.”
“Down in the Penzance area, The
Shore is run by Bruce Rennie and
impressively he does it all himself. It’s
just him in the kitchen and he cooks
fantastic seafood. Ben's Cornish
Kitchen is another Penzance gem,
where diners can enjoy Cornish food
cooked to a very high standard.”
With unmissable sights including
nearby Marazion’s tidal island and
ancient castle of St Michael’s Mount,
the Jubilee Pool, an Art Deco lido
on Penzance's Promenade, plus the
outlying microclimatic Isles of Scilly
© VisitBritain/ Jason Hawkes
just a ferry hop away, Penzance has
never been short of reasons to visit, but
thanks to an influx of inventive chefs, its
food scene is now really coming of age.
Another food haven not to miss is the
town’s first smokehouse at The Cornish
Barn where hip cocktails are served
alongside home-smoked Cornish meat
and fish. And with local vineyards,
breweries, bountiful fish markets and
farms across both shores, it’s little
surprise Cornwall is a magnet for
gourmands and top chefs alike. Round
off your visit trying local ales in the
seafaring inns that dot both magical
coasts, Nathan says, and you’ll soon
see why this eminent chef would never
live anywhere else. à
BritishTravelJournal.com 33
WHERE TO STAY:
North Cornwall: The Scarlet
For the ultimate Cornish beach escape, this
eco hotel set on the spectacular north coast
is simply unbeatable and is an easy drive
from Padstow and Port Isaac. With a reedfringed
outdoor pool, two clifftop hot tubs,
an award-winning spa and a sea-view sauna,
The Scarlet offers five-star relaxation rooted
in the heart and soul of its Cornish location.
Local art adorns the walls, the whole hotel
smells incredible thanks to the Cornish Oula
toiletires and around every corner guests
are greeted with soul-soothing views of
the sea. The adult-only retreat blends into
the hillside overlooking the creamy surf of
Mawgan Porth and the marigold beach lies
just footsteps through the wild grass meadow
garden. Settle into a sea-view couples pod,
enjoy fine dining with one of the best sunsets
in Cornwall and then doze off to the sound
of waves hitting the shore. The South West
Coast Path winds right along the front of the
hotel, ideal for hikes across to the glorious
expanses of Watergate Bay. A spellbinding
coastal retreat.
scarlethotel.co.uk
34 BritishTravelJournal.com
Marazion: Godolphin Arms
Experience the time and tides of Cornwall
like never before; guests can watch the
shifting sands around Mounts Bay as the
tide sweeps across the causeway eventually
lapping at the hotel brickwork. Fall to sleep
to the sound of the sea and wake to the
ever-changing vistas and sunrise above
St Michael’s Mount. For beach walks,
sensational sunsets and extraordinary
access to St Michael’s Mount, this
commanding position is second to none.
For the best views in the house, book the
remarkably well priced family apartment
in Room 11, where sea views abound and a
picture window captures the endless beauty
of Mounts Bay and the iconic castle.
godolphinarms.co.uk
Penzance: Chapel House
One of the most exquisitely designed
boutique hotels in Cornwall, Chapel House
occupies a captivating Georgian townhouse
in the old quarter. Dating back to 1790,
with former inhabitants including Admiral
Samuel Hood Linzee of HMS Temeraire, the
guesthouse has been painstakingly restored
and today mixes the old with contemporary
flashes of genius. A baby grand sits
alongside abstract art, beamed bedrooms
boast sumptuous open-plan polished
concrete bathrooms, and crackling in-room
log burners contrast with vibrant Ercol
furniture – staying here is an adventure.
Flooded with natural light, the property’s
plethora of picture windows make the most
of the jaw-dropping sea views.
The stylish top loft bedroom is a
particular favourite and features an en
suite bathroom glass ceiling that retracts so
guests can bathe under the stars with the
view of the chapel spires. The graceful décor
extends to two apartments that adjoin the
main house, which provide guests with even
more privacy and living space. Apartment
1 has no less than three balconies and
panoramic views of Penzance harbour. An
exceptional find, with Bruce Rennie’s The
Shore just footsteps away.
chapelhousepz.co.uk
TASTE OF CORNWALL
ABOVE: RESTAURANT NATHAN
OUTLAW
Raw Mackerel, roast onion, parsnip, chilli oil
ABOVE: DRIFTWOOD
40 Day Old Fillet of Ruby Red Beef
Cooked Over Coals, Smoked Bone Marrow,
Garlic & Spinach followed by Lemon Verbena,
Shortbread, White Chocolate & Macadamia Nut
BELOW: AINSWORTH
Paul Ainsworth at No. 6,
Padstow Trifle
Pictured opposite page: The Scarlet. Picture above in a clockwise direction from top
left, Chapel House; Bottom left, Godolphin Arms.
BritishTravelJournal.com 35
TOP SEEDS
Behind-the-Scenes
Welcome to Wimbledon – one of the world’s
most prestigious British sporting spectacles
Words | Chantal Borciani
36 BritishTravelJournal.com
The ball boys and girls line up for their official photocall outside the clubhouse AELTC/Joel Marklund
T R A V E L I N S P I R A T I O N
BritishTravelJournal.com 37
EVERY SUMMER, MORE than 470,000 tennis
fans descend on London SW19’s hallowed turf
for the annual Wimbledon Championships.
The iconic British tennis event is broadcast to
millions and is rooted in quintessential tradition and
pageantry. Dating back to the 1870s when the inaugural
tournament was held in front of a crowd of 200
spectators, today the annual sporting spectacle is held at
Wimbledon’s All England Lawn Tennis Club (AELTC) and
attracts Hollywood stars and royalty alike, with Her Royal
Highness the Duchess of Cambridge a passionate patron
of the AELTC.
In the run up to the tournament, the All England Club
is, not surprisingly, a hive of activity. The courts, where
all eyes will soon be fixed, are the responsibility of the
fastidious grounds team, headed up by Neil Stubley. As
head groundsman, it is Neil’s responsibility to ensure the
40 courts are in perfect condition when the gates open.
“There’s definitely pressure. It’s arguably one of the
top three sporting events in the world,” Neil explains as
he walks alongside the immaculately manicured edge
of Centre Court. Neil began working at the All England
Club on a work placement in 1995 and has risen through
the ranks. He has a rather modest team of 15 full-time
groundsmen, which doubles in size during the summer
“With
this July’s
tournament
on the
horizon,
the grounds
staff will
work day
and night to
ensure every
painstaking
detail is
perfect”
Pictured Left:
The Venus
Rosewater
Dish and The
Gentlemen's
Singles Trophy
on Centre Court.
Selling
strawberries at
the kiosk on St
Mary's Walk.
Images AELTC/Thomas Lovelock/ Chris Raphael/ Joe Toth/Ben Queenborough
and is “responsible for everything that grows”. This
includes the 50,000 plants that adorn the club, the
iconic Boston Ivy which clads the famous clubhouse, and
every millimetre of the 100 per cent rye grass that is laid
on each court.
“We measure the courts every day for hardness,
moisture, chlorophyll content and so on. The grass is
cut to 8mm for The Championships and each court
has a tailored irrigation system run from a centralised
computer.”
The aim, Neil says, is for absolute consistency. “In
theory, anyone like Roger [Federer] or Andy [Murray]
should be able to go onto any of the match courts or
practice courts two hours before heading on to Centre
Court or No. 1 Court and they should all play exactly
the same”.
“These days tennis players don’t leave anything
to chance. During the Championships, we’ll get
players like Djokovic asking what yesterday’s
weather might have done to the court, or what time
we cut the courts that day and if it was the same
time as yesterday because they’re always looking for
that extra one per cent,” Neil explains.
Since 1922 there have only been seven
tournaments without rain interruptions recorded and in
recent years, Neil and his team have dealt with heatwaves,
hail and everything in between.
“In 2017, two heat-waves struck London just before
The Championships opened. We were getting 40c
temperatures on the playing surface. So two weeks
before the tournament we were trying to manage grass
that pretty much shuts down above 28c.”
While Neil and his team tend to the courts, a rather
unusual member of the Wimbledon grounds team takes
to the skies. Rufus the Harris Hawk has been working
at Wimbledon since 2007, and has his own AELTC
security pass with his job title detailed officially as ‘Bird
Scarer’. Rufus usually starts flying around 5am during
The Championships and patrols the courts until 9am to
ensure that the iconic ivy-green seats remain unsullied for
spectators.
Rufus’s handler Imogen Davis explains: “We visit most
weeks of the year as a pigeon deterrent. Rufus even has a
purple and green coloured hood to wear at Wimbledon
and his own social media accounts.”
With the courts maintained to exacting standards and
even the resident hawk in uniform, it goes without saying
that the same degree of precision is applied to every other
facet of the tournament.
Around 54,250 balls are used during The
Championships every year with each ball kept at 68°F
before use; the stringing team work night and day
and string over 2,000 rackets, equal to over 40 miles
Pictured
Below:
Ground
Staff mow
and stripe
Court 18.
38 BritishTravelJournal.com
Pictured Above:
Garbine Muguruza
(ESP) in action against
Venus Williams (USA)
in the Ladiesí Singles
Final on Centre Court
2017 Championships at
Wimbledon.
of string; and the traditional strawberries and cream
devoured by so many visitors – 166,055 portions during
2017’s Championships to be exact – are usually Grade 1
English strawberries from the ‘The Garden of England’,
Kent. The strawberries are picked daily at 4am, collected
from the packing plant at 9am and are delivered to the
Club by 11am for inspection and hulling, for guests to
enjoy on the same day.
New for 2019 will be the retractable roof on No.1
Court – the completion of a three-year build, which also
includes refurbished hospitality suites; two more rows of
approximately 900 seats; the creation of a two-level public
plaza named the Walled Garden; and a larger big screen
for the famously atmospheric outdoor viewing hill, which in
recent years has coined the moniker of Murray Mound.
As Wimbledon has grown, so too has its influence
and impact on the local community. The Wimbledon
Foundation, the charity of the AELTC, has awarded
over £1.75 million to local projects since the Foundation
began in 2013 and plays a pivotal role in opening
up the complex to schools and charities. After each
Championship, the Foundation also helps redistribute
unclaimed lost property and resources. “In 2018 we
donated 2,500 plants to local charities, sent camping
equipment left behind to the YMCA Wimbledon,
donated IT equipment to local charities, unclaimed
spectacles to Vision Aid Overseas, and donated
unwanted clothing items to local night shelters and the
Red Cross Refugee Centre,” explains Helen Parker, head
of Wimbledon Foundation.
The Championships’ impact both at grass roots level
and on the world stage continues at a pace but if you
don’t have a golden ticket to the on-court action for this
year fear not as The Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Museum
and tours of the All England Club are open year round
COURT ACTION
290 MILLION
TENNIS BALLS
could fit into Centre Court with the roof closed
39,000
SPECTATORS
are allowed in the grounds at any one time
303,277
GLASSES OF PIMM’S
are on average consumed
21,917
BOTTLES OF CHAMPAGNE
are on average popped!
129MPH
FASTEST ALL
TIME SERVE (LADIES)
Venus Williams (2008)
76,603
ICE CREAMS
are on average enjoyed
307,277
TEA AND COFFEE
cups are served on average per tournament
33,000KG
STRAWBERRIES
were consumed during the 2017 tournament
and offer visitors a glimpse behind-the-scenes of this
historic site, with access to Centre Court, the BBC TV
studio, the members' balcony and the iconic players'
entrance.
With this July’s tournament on the horizon, the
grounds staff will work day and night to ensure every
painstaking detail is perfect. And the last job to do?
Changing the scoreboards on Centre Court, which
remain as they stood at the final ‘Game, set, match’ at
the Ladies’ and Mens’ finals until the new action kicks
off for this year’s Championships. u
THE 2019 CHAMPIONSHIPS IS HELD
MONDAY 1 JULY – SUNDAY 14 JULY
WIMBLEDON.COM
BritishTravelJournal.com 39
SUBSCRIBE TODAY
and receive the ultimate getaway essential!
Receive four issues of British Travel Journal, with free postage,
plus a free luxury gift set from Noble Isle worth £20 - all for just £19!
CITY | COAST | COUNTRY
BRITISH TRAVEL
JOURNAL
SUMMER 2019 | ISSUE 02
CITY | COAST | COUNTRY
BRITISH TRAVEL
JOURNAL
BritishTravelJournal.com
experiences
after dark
JERSEY MOONWALKS
TO STAR-GAZING
IN AYRSHIRE!
SPRING 2019 | ISSUE 01
BritishTravelJournal.com
Luxury
free gift
WORTH
£20!
Coastal Special WIN
sea to shore
GOURMAND’S TOUR OF CORNWALL
WITH NATHAN OUTLAW
IN THE STARS
GASTRONOMIC DELIGHTS AND A
CONSTELLATION OF MICHELIN STARS
JUST WAITING TO BE EXPLORED
a luxury
short break
staying on
a floating
hotel!
DREAM ESCAPE
DISCOVER THE REMARKABLE ISLANDS
AND BREATHTAKING LANDSCAPES
OF ORKNEY AND THE OUTER HEBRIDES
£5.00
#
weekend adventure
48 HOURS AT CORNWALL'S MOST FAMOUS SURF
DESTINATION, FISTRAL BEACH IN NEWQUAY
blue sky thinking
DISCOVER WORLD-CLASS OPEN AIR THEATRE
PRODUCTIONS ON CLIFF TOPS TO ABBEY RUINS
EVENTS ■ IDYLLIC DESTINATIONS ■ MICHELIN STAR RESTAURANTS ■ LUXURY HOTELS ■ NEW EXPERIENCES
£5.00
EVENTS ■ IDYLLIC DESTINATIONS ■ MICHELIN STAR RESTAURANTS ■ LUXURY HOTELS ■ NEW EXPERIENCES
Subscribe to British Travel Journal today and receive the ultimate getaway essential worth £20!
Return the form below or visit britishtraveljournal.com/subscribe
YES PLEASE! I WOULD LIKE TO SUBSCRIBE AND CLAIM MY FREE GIFT
START WITH CURRENT ISSUE SUMMER 2019 NEXT ISSUE AUTUMN 2019
NAME:
ADDRESS:
POST CODE:
EMAIL:
1 YEAR £19 2 YEARS £35 POSTAGE OUTSIDE THE UK 1 YEAR £45 2 YEARS £75
VISA VISA DEBIT MASTERCARD AMERICAN EXPRESS CHEQUE (payee Contista Media Ltd)
CARD NUMBER:
VALID FROM: EXPIRY DATE: ISSUE NUMBER: (Amex)
SIGNATURE:
D D M M Y Y
Contista Media is compliant with GDPR (General Data Protection Regulations) Your subscriptions data is
only used for the purpose of processing your subscription. Your email address will only be used in order to
contact you regarding renewing your subscription. We will not pass your details on to third party companies.
CSV:
* Ts & Cs: Limited time only, while stocks last. Gift is for UK subscriptions only.
40 Return BritishTravelJournal.com
to: Contista Media Ltd, British Travel Journal, Mitchell House, Brook Avenue, Warsash, Hampshire, SO31 9HP
EXCLUSIVE HOSPITALITY PARTNER TO THE CHAMPIONSHIPS, WIMBLEDON
THE CHAMPIONSHIPS, WIMBLEDON
MONDAY 1 JULY - SUNDAY 14 JULY
EXPERIENCE THE NEW NO.1 COURT ROOF
YOU’RE NOW GUARANTEED TO SEE TENNIS,
WHATEVER THE WEATHER
Bespoke official hospitality packages available.
All include Centre Court or No.1. Court seats.
Visit www.keithprowse.co.uk/BTJ
or call +44 (0)208 003 4539
In search of
SCOTCH
WHISKY
Over four million visitors a year beat a path to Scotland's
distilleries for an authentic taste of the country
Words | Adrian Mourby
THERE ARE MANY REASONS to visit Scotland,
but its whisky industry is by far one of the best.
Unlike many major manufacturing sites, the
average Scottish distillery is almost always located
in the countryside. Because they draw their water from the
purest springs and streams, whisky-makers tend to work in
clean, unsullied rural locations. And most of these tend to be
picturesque.
Often you’ll find the famous drink being distilled inside
idiosyncratic old buildings that have evolved over time, many
of them with distinctive pagoda-like wooden rooves. Step
inside and you’ll invariably be met with a cocktail of highly
distinctive smells: old wood, grain, yeast and spirit. You’re also
likely to be met by an enthusiastic team who love sharing their
commitment to Scotland’s uisge beatha (the Celtic words for
water of life).
The whisky industry is thriving today – with the result
that the names of lots of tiny Scottish villages are famous all
round the world – so it can be hard to believe that in the 1980s
“Scotch” was verging on the unfashionable.
A drink that had evolved over centuries had become the
tipple for old men and many distilleries were on the brink of
closure. The reasons for whisky’s subsequent recovery are many
and complex. Clever marketing, astute management and
increasing affluence in the east may have had something to do
with it but the resurgence within a generation is extraordinary.
Today whisky is not just one of Scotland’s major exports, but
one of the reasons people from all over the world come to visit.
Uisge beatha began in feudal times as a crofter’s spirit
brewed and sold locally and used to provide a powerful
kick-start to the day. Not diluted as it is today (to around
40% alcohol) this original “water of life” probably actually
shortened life expectancy. Invigoration or anaesthesia against
the cold Scottish mornings was probably the main benefit of
whisky in those early days.
In the nineteenth century however the first enterprising
Scots merchants began buying up raw local whiskies and
blending them to create a predictable – and enjoyable – taste in
every bottle.
The rapid improvement in the quality of blended whiskies
like Johnnie Walker, Famous Grouse and Dewar’s had the
knock-on effect of encouraging individual distilleries to improve
the quality of their own single (unblended) malts.
These days, although there are still great blended whiskies
out there, it is the single malts that sell for thousands of pounds
at auction and it is the individual distilleries that attract
pilgrims from all over the world who come just to pay homage
to the home of their favourite dram.
________________________________________________________
Just as French wines rely on the individual terroir where the
grapes are produced, so Scots whisky is an embodiment of the
landscape over which the water flows before going into each à
© VisitScotland / Peter Dibdin
42 BritishTravelJournal.com
BritishTravelJournal.com 43
Visitors enjoy a guided tour of the Clydeside Distillery, Glasgow
Whisky is one of Scotland’s most
valuable commodities, attracting
visitors from all over the world,
with one in five visitors making a
trip to a whisky distillery during
their stay - VisitScotland
whisky. Single malts are also influenced by the local peat
that may stoke the fires at the distillery. For this reason
Scotland’s bleak islands, its green glens, its lowland
pastures and rolling northern moors all contribute to the
unique flavour of each and every whisky.
The barrels in which ageing takes places also
influence that flavour, No wonder no two whiskies ever
taste the same.
Nowadays six whisky producing regions are
recognised in Scotland although they are hugely
different in size. “Lowland” is an area scarce in distilleries
between Edinburgh and Glasgow, conversely “Highland”
is really four massive regions – North, East, West and
Central – that are found to the north of Lowland.
Then there is “Speyside”, a tiny area between the
Grampian Mountains and the Moray Firth, which is
as densely overpopulated by distilleries as Lowland is
underpopulated.
Meanwhile to the west – and only eleven miles from
the coast of Northern Ireland – lies “Islay”, a single island
that is home to eight major distilleries. Campbeltown –
once the whisky capital of the world but which ironically
almost closed up shop in the twentieth century – sits
nearby on the mainland.
Finally there is the region known as “The Islands”
which comprises every other island distillery that isn’t on
Islay itself.
If you are confused then just to make matters more
complicated the Scotch Whisky Association officially
lumps all the islands – except Islay – into the Highland
region. Conversely, many whisky experts subdivide the
Highlands into four separate inner regions. There is no
simple appellation system for Scottish Whisky.
Because each region has its individual qualities
the Scotch Whisky Experience in Edinburgh offers a
very accessible 50-minute audio-visual crash course
(with tastings) that explains whisky and its regional
characteristics.
But nothing beats the experience of visiting a distillery
and having the magic explained to you in situ. All that
polished, complex bespoke equipment inside can cause
OBAN
IN THE HIGHLANDS
Founded in 1794 by two brothers, this
distillery passed through many hands
down the centuries and occasionally fell
“silent”. Today Oban is one of Scotland’s
smallest distilleries, producing a single
malt typical of the West Highlands, drier
and smokier than the light, sweet malts
of other Highland regions. This old grey
stone building sits near a busy quayside
and looks rather forbidding from the
outside, but there is a very friendly new
visitor centre within.
obanwhisky.com
the mind to boggle. What do the grist mill, mash tun,
washbacks and copper pot stills actually do? What is
a spirit receiver and why is it kept locked? And why do
all of these pieces of Heath-Robinson invention look so
different? The byzantine machinery of each distillery is as
individual as the taste of the whisky it produces.
Finally, the great thing about a whisky tour is that it
unleashes a terrible thirst and that is what the tasting
room at the end of the visit is designed to sate.
There are so many distilleries to enjoy in Scotland – far
too many for the average visitor to ever reach – but here is
our selection of just one from each region. à
Where to stay
The Airds Hotel is
a small gourmet-dining
country house 19 miles
to the north of Oban on
the shores of Loch Linhe.
It was originally an inn
for drovers bringing their
cattle from the islands but
is now one of the most
comfortable hotels in the
area, celebrated for its
excellent food and for its
tranquil views across to the
Morvern Peninsula.
airds-hotel.com
44 BritishTravelJournal.com
GLENKINCHIE
IN THE LOWLANDS
There aren’t many distilleries around
the Scottish capital but Glenkinchie,
set in undulating farmland 15 miles
to the southeast of Edinburgh is the
nearest.
Founded in 1825, the distillery
went through uncertain times
before being completely rebuilt
in 1881. In 2013 it was awarded
Scotland’s prize for Best Lowland
Single Malt. This picturesque brick
building is an easy-going place to
visit and its whiskies have distinct
grassy sweetness on the palate.
malts.com
Where to stay
The Balmoral Hotel stands
commandingly above Edinburgh’s
Waverley Station and is famous for
containing the room in which JK
Rowling completed her last Harry
Potter novel. It’s a slow drive out to
Glenkinchie, but when you get back
to Edinburgh make sure to spend an
evening with one of the hotel’s kilted
Whisky Ambassadors who will help
you enjoy whisky as never before.
roccofortehotels.com
LAGAVULIN
ISLE OF ISLAY
Dating from 1816 and housed in a
sequence of white-washed buildings
with a distinctive twin-towered roof,
Lagavulin has a long-running rivalry
with the nearby Laphroaig distillery.
Although the two distilleries are only
a mile apart, the water and the peat
each uses are sufficiently different to
create two very distinct whiskies. The
16-year-old Lagavulin is considered
by many to be the benchmark for a
great Islay whisky.
malts.com
WE LOVE
Where to stay
Recently reopened,
The Machrie Hotel is set in
the dunes of Islay, six miles
from Lagavulin village. Its 47
bedrooms have views across
island’s peat plains, over the
hotel’s own golf course or
as far as the remote Mull of
Oa peninsula. Seven miles
of pristine beaches and the
opportunity to spot white
eagles, puffins, short-eared
owls and waders make this an
hotel for wildlife enthusiasts
as well as golfers and
whisky-lovers.
campbellgrayhotels.com
BritishTravelJournal.com 45
CARDHU
SPEYSIDE
Started as an illicit still in 1810 by the
whisky smuggler John Cumming,
Cardhu became respectable
when Johnnie Walker & Sons of
Kilmarnock became a regular
purchaser of its single malts to go
into their famous blend. Eventually
in 1893 Cumming’s daughter-inlaw
sold the distillery to Johnnie
Walker on the condition that the
family could continue its day-to-day
running of the stills. A company
myth runs that spiders in the tun
room have always had a beneficial
effect on the fermentation process
and this has led them to being a
protected species at the distillery.
cardhudistillery.com
Where to stay
Cardhu Country House is a
former manse half a mile from the
distillery. It offers just six bedrooms
with salmon and sea trout fishing
nearby. The house is at the heart
of Speyside’s Malt Whisky Trail, a
unique signposted tour that visitors
can follow to eight local distilleries,
including Dallas Dhu which is now a
whisky museum and visitor centre.
cardhucountryhouse.co.uk
DONT MISS
HIGHLAND WHISKY
FESTIVAL
A new annual celebration
of the established Highland
Whisky Trail.
highlandwhiskyfestival.co.uk
GLEN SCOTIA
CAMPBELTOWN
Campbeltown was once the
powerhouse of Scottish whisky
production with over 30 distilleries.
Unfortunately, Prohibition in the United
States wrecked its export market.
These days the region is rebuilding with
three revitalised distilleries. Glen Scotia,
founded in 1834, is one of the smallest
distilling operations in Scotland with
just seven employees.
Five single malts are produced here,
including the Victoriana, a modern
recreation of their classic Victorian
Single Malt. Exposing the casks to the
unique salty sea air of Campbeltown
during ageing is said to contribute to
the whisky’s distinctive taste.
glenscotia.com
Where to stay
Carradales Luxury Guest House
Fourteen miles north along the coast
from the Glen Scotia Distillery sits this
cosy four-bedroom Victorian guest house
warmed by log fires. The nearby fishing
village of Carradale has its own golf
course plus a local bus that goes five times
a day into Campbeltown itself.
carradales.com
46 BritishTravelJournal.com
TALISKER
THE ISLE OF SKYE
In 1960 when fire destroyed
most of Skye’s most famous
distillery, its five uniquelyshaped
stills – odd-looking
might be a less diplomatic
word – were rebuilt in exacting
detail. Everyone agreed that
the shape of the stills might
somehow be responsible for
the whisky’s unique spicy
flavour.
A maritime location
alongside Loch Harport also
affects the taste in a subtle
way. Talisker was much
enjoyed by Robert Louis
Stevenson who praised the
whisky in his poem “The
Scotsman’s Return from
Abroad”. Today Talisker
is held by many to be the
quintessential Islands Whisky.
malts.com
Where to stay
Twenty miles north of
Talisker stands Skeabost, a
former hunting lodge that was
rebuilt for comfort in 1871.
With the River Snizort running
through its grounds this is the
perfect place for salmon and
trout fishing. It is also the only
hotel on Skye with its own golf
course. The recent renovation has
blended the original Victorian
features with contemporary
furniture and tweeds in dramatic
primary colours.
skeabosthotel.com
THE LOWDOWN
GETTING THERE
plane British Airways fly to Edinburgh
and Glasgow several times a day from
Heathrow, Gatwick and London City
airports with single fares from as little
as £35. ba.com
INTRODUCTION
For the most user-friendly introduction
to Scots Whisky visit The Scotch
Whisky Experience next to Edinburgh
Castle: 354 Castlehill, 0131 220 0441
scotchwhiskyexperience.co.uk
BritishTravelJournal.com 47
© VisitScotland/ Paul Tomkins
Mull of Galloway Lighthouse
48 BritishTravelJournal.com
Images in this feature are ©VisitScotland/Kenny Lam/Paul Tomkins
I T I N E R A R I E S
SOUTH WEST
COAST 300
Scotland
Jessica Way explores the magnificent beauty of the
south west coast of Scotland, discovering some of the
finest hotels to stay in and places to visit along the way
YOU'VE PROBABLY ALREADY heard of
Scotland’s North Coast 500, a circular route
around the northern top of Scotland from
and to Inverness, and now, more recently, the
South West Coastal 300 route has launched, a stunning
drive of just over 300 miles, firmly placed on the travel
itinerary wish-list for tourists looking to experience their
own slice of Scotland.
There is no one way to travel and explore either the
NC500 or SWC300, the choice of where you start,
and finish, is yours too. Both scenic driving routes cover
several hundred miles, and you could easily spend weeks
at a time exploring a single stretch of the coast, and still
feel you have only just scratched the surface.
The choice of spectacular white sandy beaches, pretty
coastal towns and villages, and landscapes filled with
soaring mountain views, makes discovering your own
coastal adventure as easy as the coastal breeze itself.
Much of the west coast, although sometimes exposed
to the whims of the North Atlantic weather, is shielded
by the inner isles, with easy access to island-hop across
to the likes of Arran, Islay, Jura, Mull, Iona and Skye
- making our only touring challenge avoiding island
temptation and sticking to our pre-planned route!
EDINBURGH TO DUMFRIES
Flying from Southampton to Edinburgh our SWC300
journey began with a pleasant two-hour drive south to
Dumfries, known as the ‘Queen of the South’.
Picking up our hire car from the airport (we used
enterprise.co.uk) was straightforward, and touring by car
is made easy in Scotland. In addition to the motorways
and good main roads, there is an excellent network of
lightly trafficked rural roads, as well as strong signposting
for the main tourist routes.
While driving look out too for the many brown ‘Thistle
Signs’ by the road that point the way to all kinds of walks,
trails, attractions and adventures.
About half way on this journey we stopped to see
Scotland’s Highest Village – Wanlockhead. Sitting at
an altitude of 467 metres, and home to The Museum of
Lead Mining, which tells the story of the local industry
and allows you to go down a former working mine.
There’s also a lovely tea room serving pasties, homemade
soup, scones, cakes and other light bites.
Once in Dumfries itself we really enjoyed visiting
the Robert Burns House (robertburns.org). Now a free
museum, with friendly volunteers and a donations box,
it was previously the house in which Robert Burns lived à
BritishTravelJournal.com 49
Kirkcudbright Harbour and Marina
and where he wrote some of his best poems. There are
many of his most famous quotes to read and inspire,
and a lovely touch is seeing the inscription of his initials
scratched into the window pane of his bedroom.
Enjoying a day of culture, our next visit was to the
fabulous new visitor centre, Moat Brae (peterpanmoatbrae.org),
described by author J.M. Barrie as his
'enchanted land' – and the place where Peter Pan, and
the imagination within his stories, was born.
Moat Brae itself was originally the home of J.M. Barrie’s
school friends Henry and Stewart Babbington – with his
own house just a few hundred metres away – Barrie is
quoted to say “I was more in that house (Moat Brae) more
than any other in Dumfries” and himself acknowledged
Moat Brae as being his inspiration behind Neverland.
Ten years of fundraising and restoration work has
gone into turning this impressive, historically significant
Georgian house, and gardens, into a modern, light, freeflowing,
interactive museum space. You should definitely
make a visit if you are passing by Dumfries – we were
really impressed. It has been achieved beautifully – while
remaining sympathetic to the original features.
Inspiring imagination and creativity is at the heart
of the museum – which aims to inspire and offer new
opportunities to children (and young people) interested
in creative writing and literacy. With the local community
and many passionate people behind the project, I am sure
the museum will be a huge success for Scotland.
We rested our heads for the night at the Cairndale
Hotel and Leisure Club (cairndalehotel.co.uk) where we
enjoyed a delicious four course Table d’Hote dinner in
the Reivers Restaurant. Following a morning visit to the
hotel's own private leisure club, The Barracuda Club,
where they offer a range of beauty treatments including
holistic and aromatherapy therapies, and a hearty full
Scottish breakfast, we were back on the road.
“Our first
stop of the
morning was
at the pretty,
quiet coastal
village of
Rockliffe – a
beautiful
sandy bay,
surrounded
in parts by
large rocks
and rock
pools, lined
with rows
of pretty
white-stone
and pastel
cottages.”
ROCKLIFFE TO PORTPATRICK
In search of some sea-side tranquillity and fresh sea air
we headed south towards the Solway Firth. Our first stop
of the morning was at the pretty, quiet coastal village
of Rockliffe – a beautiful sandy bay, surrounded in parts
by large rocks and rock pools, lined with rows of pretty
white-stone and pastel cottages.
There is a large car park just before you reach the bay
or limited 20-minute parking at the beach itself. For us
that was enough time to soak up the views and enjoy an
ice-cream. On less sunny days when the ice-cream van
stays at home (we were lucky with the weather – and mine
was a 99!) there is also a curios/antiques shop which
serves takeaway coffees that can be enjoyed sitting out
on the green.
If you enjoy walking, there is a superb linear coastal
walk linking Rockcliffe to the east - with Sandyhills, a
picturesque sandy beach - said to be one of the finest
The Harbour Cottage Gallery in Kirkcudbright
50 BritishTravelJournal.com
cliff walks in Britain with stunning clifftop
scenery and views across the Solway Firth to
Cumbria and the Isle of Man. There is also
an infrequent bus service leading back to the
start – so if you wanted to give your legs a rest
there’s no need to walk.
Heading in the opposite direction (west)
there is a more manageable mile-long Jubilee
Footpath linking Rockliffe to Kippford – a
charming waterside location with several
places to choose from for lunch.
Known as the Solway Riviera, popular with
yachtsmen, Kippford is lined with granite and
white-washed houses, colourful cottages, a
gift shop and café. We choose The Anchor pub
(which also has rooms) for a locally sourced
fresh seafood platter, and crab sandwich -
washed down with a refreshing juice.
Back in the car we continued our journey west
towards Kirkcudbright, passing Dundrennan
Abbey - dating back to 1142, and previously
a Cistercian monastery - and where Mary
Queen of Scots spent her final night in
Scotland back in 1568.
It was also close to here where we drove
past a 35 foot Wickerman, which I am fairly
certain must have been on the grounds of
East Kirkcarswell Farm, in memory of the
Wickerman Festival, and founder, Jamie
Gilroy who was tragically killed by gunshot
to his head in December 2014. The music
festival, which had been held at his farm since
2001, had become world-famous – likened to
a smaller version of Glastonbury – it attracted
the likes of Scissor Sisters, James, The
Proclaimers and many more.
Traditionally the festival would end at
around midnight with the burning of a giant
wickerman built by local craftsmen Trevor
Leat and Alex Rigg. The designs for these
became ever more elaborate and inventive
over the years.
Kirkcudbright, known as 'Scotland's
Artists’ Town', made a quirky stopping point.
It was easy to park, and we enjoyed looking
in the new Kirkcudbright Gallery and some
of the independent craft shops and galleries.
There’s an interesting harbour where you
can get ice-cream and fish and chips, and an
old-fashioned looking petrol station where we
filled up the car.
Next we crossed the bridge over the River
Dee and drove alongside the shore past the
beautiful Dhoon beach with its views of Little
Ross Island and its lighthouse. Continuing along
the B727 via Borgue we joined the A75 and took
a divert to explore Gatehouse of Fleet – and I am
so pleased we did.
Here we discovered the less-well known
Carrick Bay and Knockbrex viewing point – a
stretch which has been voted ‘Favourite Beach
in Dumfries and Galloway’, but is still quiet
from tourism. A hidden gem – not completely
hidden of course, after-all ‘we’ found it - but
there was hardly a car, or soul, in sight.
The sea level was so low we could have
walked across to Mossyard, had there been
time, but we did enjoy walking barefoot on
the sand and dipping our toes in the sea.
Continuing along the A75 passing
Creetown, the route took us to Newton
Stewart (another great stopping point for
shops and cafés) and with stunning views of
the Galloway Hills and Wigtown Bay.
From here it is just over an hour’s drive to
Scotland`s most southerly point - the remote
Mull of Galloway – where you can delight in
views of the Galloway Hills, Lakeland Fells, the
Isle of Man and even the Mountains of Mourne.
This is one of the highlights of the route and
somewhere you could spend several hours
simply soaking up the atmosphere and views!
Climb the 115 steps to the top of the
fabulous Mull of Galloway Lighthouse, where
a spectacular view from the balcony and
lightroom will reward you for your efforts!
Pop in to the Gallie Craig award-winning cliff
top coffee house or make time for a visit to
the RSPB Nature Reserve. From here re-trace
your route and, just before Drummore, follow
the signs for Port Logan. Here we turned à
BritishTravelJournal.com 51
Pictured left;
Portpatrick
Harbour
Kirkcudbright.
Pictured below and
opposite page; 5
Star Luxury Hotel,
Glenapp Castle.
right, and, after a couple of miles, rejoined the A716
northwards. Port Logan has another beautiful beach
and nearby is ‘Scotland's most Exotic Garden’ – Logan
Botanic Garden.
From here you are not very far from Portpatrick,
where you will find several bars and restaurants on the
harbourside, pastel-coloured houses, set around a small
bay with cliffs forming the backdrop.
GLENAPP AND GALLOWAY FOREST PARK
From Portpatrick we headed north past Stranraer onto
the A77 along the coast of Loch Ryan to Cairnryan -
where we could see the ferries sail from terminals at each
end of the village across to nearby Northern Ireland.
Shortly afterwards we arrived in 5-star paradise for
our next overnight stay - easily one of the most beautiful
hotels in Britain. Glenapp Castle Hotel is ideally situated
on the South West Coast 300 route – and an absolute
must (if your budget allows).
Let the team take care of your itinerary for a couple
of days – they’ve just launched an exciting and unique
variety of experiences from mountain biking, archery,
private falconry displays, stargazing, golf, whisky tastings
– there’s even ‘forest bathing’.
The castle itself, built in 1870, is a strikingly beautiful
example of the Scottish baronial style of architecture.
Designed by the celebrated Scottish architect David Bryce
“We arrived
in 5-star
paradise
for our next
overnight
stay - easily
one of
the most
beautiful
hotels in
Britain.”
for Mr. James Hunter, the Deputy Lord Lieutenant of
Ayrshire, the castle’s mellow sandstone battlements are
topped by soaring turrets and towers, earning Glenapp
a rightful place as one of the most romantic castles in
Scotland.
In January, the castle took delivery of their new boat,
the ‘Glenapp Castle’ which can take up to eight guests
on private sea safaris exploring the stunning clear waters,
remote beaches and the amazing sealife and birds they
are blessed with on their doorstep.
In addition to this, the castle has stunning gardens
and grounds for you to explore and enjoy at your leisure,
including the wooded Glen walk. You are warmly
encouraged to take a map, jump into a pair of Hunter
boots, and grab a Glenapp jacket, before heading out to
enjoy the sights, sounds and scents of thirty-six acres of
castle grounds.
You could easily spend an afternoon strolling the
carefully tended lawns and pathways, surrounded by the
vast array of exotic plants that have been collected since
Victorian days.
We enjoyed taking a stroll through their beautiful
walled gardens, where we came across their wonderful
Italian garden, designed by Gertrude Jekyll, and a historic
Victorian glasshouse – currently being restored by
talented craftsmen to its former glory. In time this will be
a wonderful space where they will grow more of their own
fruit and vegetables.
And that’s not the only improvements being made
at this incredible hotel – there’s also the excitement of
the imminent launch of their 4-bedroom penthouse
52 BritishTravelJournal.com
apartment, sure to rival some of the finest
private suites in the world.
I was given a sneak-peek, hard-hat tour,
of the conversion, starting with a trip up
the beautiful spiral staircase (in the castle's
turrets) which links the bedroom suites and
reception rooms, as well as leading guests
to the private roof terrace with 360 degree
views over the surrounding countryside and
coastline. And what a view – I was told you
can see as far as Ireland on a clear day!
This space will be perfect for small
groups... there's also a drawing room which
can be used for private dining, a sitting room,
games room, kitchen, sauna and beauty
treatment room, along with an astonishing
master bedroom suite boasting more
magnificent views.
Glenapp Castle Hotel is also the perfect
base for exploring the Galloway Tourist
Route (from National Trust Scotland). This
route, stretching through the lush countryside
of Dumfries & Galloway and into Ayrshire,
in the very heart of Burns’ country, takes
in Gretna Green before continuing on to
Dumfries (where we started our tour). From
Dalbeattie you then venture through the
beautiful Galloway Forest Park, just a 40
minute drive inland from Glenapp Castle
Hotel, and an absolute must for spotting
wildlife – 774 km² of unspoilt countryside with
many rare and endangered species, including
red deer and wild goats, and can you believe
it, a fifth of all of Scotland’s red squirrels!
There are three visitor centres, and the
option to choose from two scenic Forest
Drives; either follow in the footsteps of Robert
the Bruce or take a picnic beside a peaceful
loch. The area is also Scotland’s first Dark
Sky Park – and one of the best places to
stargaze in Europe.
Some of the guests staying at Glenapp look
on the castle as their home away from home,
with many repeat visitors, who have been
guests for several years. Between receiving the
finest quality of hospitality, in an atmosphere
of peace, tranquillity and relaxation – nothing
is too much trouble for their staff who are
ready and eager to be at your service. The
staff were exemplary - always offering to go
the extra mile to make your stay as enjoyable,
and memorable, as possible.
For such a grand castle – surrounded by
12,000 acres of Lord Inchcape’s Glenapp
Estate – it is refreshingly unpretentious too.
Currently there are 17 luxurious and
spacious suites and bedrooms, each
individually furnished with a unique
combination of fabrics, art and antiques.
We stayed in a Junior Suite, situated in the East
Wing of the castle, furnished in grand stately
Victorian décor, complete with fireplace, large
windows, and a luxurious marble bathroom.
For our evening meal we chose the six
course gourmet menu – courses included
Spinach and Quail’s Egg, Duck Foie Gras
Bonbon and Fillet of Loch Duart Salmon –
finished off at the end of the evening with
a warming dram of whisky in the lounge!
The food and service was flawless, and
unobtrusive – a lovely evening.
AYRSHIRE AND SANQUHAR
Following our wonderful stay at Glenapp
Castle we were back on the road, a downhill
coastal route heading towards Ballantrae,
with beautiful views, and where we had our
first proper glimpse of Ailsa Craig - a volcanic
(extinct) island famed for the granite used for
curling stones, and home to over 40,000 sea
birds with a summit of 1,100 feet. à
BritishTravelJournal.com 53
SOUTH WEST COAST 300
A view towards
Turnberry
Lighthouse and
Ailsa Craig from
the 8th green of the
new King Robert
the Bruce golf
course at Trump
Turnberry, Ayrshire
As we entered Ballantrae we took a left turn, pausing for a
moment, to take in the stunning views of Ailsa Craig, and
Arran, lying just offshore from the harbour.
We then followed the A77 along the coast for another
half an hour where we reached Turnberry, then on to the
A719 – and our next destination, another triumphant
5-star hotel within this glorious stretch of coastline – the
iconic Trump Turnberry Resort.
Known throughout the world for its incredible
championship links golf courses – there’s an entirely
different vibe here from Glenapp, less personal, more
energetic, however it’s another fabulous choice –
especially if you love golf and sporting activities.
Trump Turnberry is home to three exceptional golf
courses, the Open Championship Ailsa course, King
Robert the Bruce and the Arran – giving it the accolade as
one of the finest golf resorts anywhere in the world.
There’s also a fantastic onsite activity centre, Turnberry
Adventures, offering guests a variety of activities
including, archery, horse riding, quad bike safaris, mini
highland games and water zorbing. Naturally there's a
luxurious spa, offering a range of ESPA treatments, and a
lovely swimming pool where we enjoyed a refreshing dip.
Trump Turnberry has over 100 years of heritage and
history – and, with the gleaming white-washed buildings
and immaculate lawns, golf courses, lighthouse and
amazing sea views, the resort is an impressive sight.
Resident Piper, Bryce McCulloch’s Scottish Bagpipe music
added to the spirited ambience.
The ‘big news’ for the resort this year is the launch
of their stylish new collection of nine two-bedroom
cottage suites lovingly restored, following a £1.6 million
investment, back to their full glory.
The Cottage Suites, dating back to 1902, have been
elegantly designed and furnished – the interiors, inspired
from the surroundings and rich heritage, have many of the
signature Turnberry touches you would expect, combining
a timeless, cosy interior with modern functionality.
The suites offer a self-contained private haven for
guests – with all of the perks of a traditional hotel suite,
yet with even more space. A great option for families,
with cots, high chairs and stair gates available, and/or
54 BritishTravelJournal.com
Culzean Castle
from Croy Shore,
South Ayrshire.
Picture Credit:
Paul Tomkins
The Cottage Suites
at Machrie Lodge
Lounge
dog owners, designed to be dog friendly, with gourmet
treats, plush dog beds, water bowls and toys available on
request.
There’s a wide choice of unique dining experiences,
including the signature restaurant 1906, which takes its
name from the year Turnberry opened; an elegant Grand
Tea Lounge and Bar, home to the opulent afternoon tea;
and Duel in the Sun restaurant overlooking the legendary
Ailsa golf course.
We opted for 1906, which offers classic dishes with a
modern twist. Here we enjoyed a lovely meal, and as the
sun set, out came our unique Chef’s Table experience
– our Orkney beef steak diane, one of their signature
dishes, being cooked to our preference at our table.
Dessert was another timeless classic, 1906 Crepe
Suzette, flambéed at our table side before being served
with Grand Marnier, orange and vanilla ice cream. Our
waitress was lovely – very warm and chatty, and enjoyed
telling us how lucky she felt to have her job at Trump
Turnberry – a step up from her previous job, she told us,
where she’d been serving fish and chips.
The surrounding area offers even more to explore –
from castles to distilleries, from beaches to the birthplace
of Robert Burns – you could spend several days or more
exploring Ayrshire.
Back on the road we passed the entrance to Culzean
Castle and drove down the ‘Electric Brae’ where your
car appears to be rolling uphill! Onwards the road
approaches Dunure with more jawdropping views of
Arran. A detour of a mile or so from here brings you to
Dunure Village - a pretty harbour and the extensive ruins
of its 13th Century Castle and Dovecote.
Return to the A719 from where it’s a short distance
to Alloway, a suburb of Ayr and famed for being the
birthplace of Robert Burns and the setting for his epic
poem, Tam o’ Shanter. Our final stop – here we visited
Burns Cottage and Burns Birthplace Museum, housing
his life’s work, before heading back on the road for the
airport.
An endlessly fascinating region of Scotland. We loved
the variety of quaint coastal villages, diverse landscapes,
and culturally inspiring attractions in this single stretch of
coastline. It was an extraordinary journey that has given
us an appetite for more. Missing the haggis already, the
more rugged NC500 route is now firmly in our sights. u
FOR MORE INFORMATION ON
VISITING SCOTLAND, PLEASE VISIT
VISITSCOTLAND.COM
BritishTravelJournal.com 55
N E W T O U R I N G R O U T E
GREAT
WEST WAY
London to Bristol
This summer marks an exciting moment for luxury travel in the
UK with the opening of England’s first ever touring route, destined to
become one of the premier routes in Europe, and probably the world
Words | Jules Mittra
FORMING A BROAD corridor on either side
of the historic King’s Road’ (known as the
‘A4’ today), the Great West Way links two
of England’s foremost historic port-cities;
London in the east, and Bristol in the west. This road
has been one of the most important routes in England
for almost two millennia. At around 125 miles in
total length, the Great West Way passes through,
or close to, some of the most spectacular and
fascinating landscapes, locations, attractions, history,
experiences and cultural highlights that England has
to offer. From the prehistoric to the ultra-modern,
from rural idylls to urban jungles, the Great West Way
offers curious, inquisitive travellers the opportunity
to go way beyond the routine tourist experience
and connect with England more powerfully and
authentically than ever before. For those with the
requisite resources, time and interest, it’s the perfect
way to discover England, in luxury, unhampered and
at a pace that is relaxed and immersive. With so much
on offer, creating the perfect itinerary for you won’t
be difficult, but here’s mine...
Starting in London, the Great West Way begins in
the heart of the historic City. As it heads west out of
the city through Richmond and Twickenham, it passes
56 BritishTravelJournal.com
Buckingham Palace, well outside the city when
first built, past the Ritz, before escaping the capital
through Windsor and the suburbs and satellite towns
that orbit London’s west flank. An ideal starting point
for exploring the Great West Way, especially for those
having just arrived from overseas, is The Langley, a
recently opened 5-star hotel just on the outskirts of
London, only 10 miles from Heathrow. Destined to
become one of England’s most prestigious country
hotels and originally the Duke of Marlborough’s
hunting lodge (ie the Churchills), The Langley recalls
the character, charm and elegance of an imperial
age whilst offering the comfort, service and facilities
of a contemporary 5-star hotel. The rooms are
sumptuously yet tastefully decorated, the spa complex
is stunning, and the hotel boasts a signature restaurant,
bar and exquisite afternoon tea. However, for food
lovers, Heston Blumenthal’s Fat Duck is just a mere 20
minutes away and offers one of the most extraordinary
culinary experiences in the world, and one that
people travel across the world to experience. As such,
booking far in advance is a necessity.
Assuming an overnight stay at The Langley, a visit
to Windsor and its famous castle may be an essential
stop for some. Personally, Eton, on the opposite à
© VisitEngland/Doug Harding
Mounted police officers at Windsor Castle
Pictured above: Eton High Street; Pictured
below: Eton College; Pictured opposite page top
to bottom-right: Highclere Castle signage and
exterior; West Kennet Long-barrow; Great Bedwyn,
and the Avebury Stone Circle
bank of the river Thames and connected to
Windsor by a pretty foot-bridge, is a more
enticing, enchanting and less crowded
prospect. Home to Eton College one of
the world’s most prestigious and oldest
schools, both the town and the school are
fascinating places to visit. Call the College
up ahead and it is often possible to find
times to visit the school or at least parts
of it, including the 1400s King’s Chapel,
often guided by one of the scholars,
replete in his top hat and tails.
However, the town is also worth
perusing, if only for a stroll along its
Victorian streets with stores that seem
to have stood still in time: gentlemen’s
outfitters with displays of fine hats,
riding-coats and assorted gentlemanly
attire, sweet shops with jars of hardboiled
marvels.
It may be obvious but travelling by
car along the Great West Way provides
the most flexible and simplest way of
exploring the route; however, there’s
no need for the transport to be any less
interesting than the route itself. Whether
you’d prefer to self-drive or enjoy the
views from the back seat, there are plenty
of options for hiring a classic British
car for the trip from companies such as
‘Bespokes’, or ‘Vintage Classics'.
Assuming Windsor and Eton are
morning stops, the afternoon should offer
something different. One such option
would be a visit to Silchester. Silchester
has to be one of the most incredible
hidden gems along the Great West Way.
Once a significant Roman town, it was
abandoned in the early 400s following
the Roman army’s sudden departure,
recalled in a vain attempt to save Rome
from the barbarian hordes. Silchester’s
walls were too long, and the site lacked
a natural defensive location or adequate
water supply, so its inhabitants seemingly
abandoned it in favour of more secure
Roman towns such as Bath and London.
Today its walls, gatehouses, road plan
and even amphitheatre are still visible,
with the rest of the site left to grazing
cattle and sheep.
It’s an extraordinary place to visit;
quiet, peaceful and evocative, and a great
stop before making the short hop over to
near-by Heckfield Place for another night
of divine luxury.
Continuing the journey west the
following day, the route along the King’s
Road/A4 provides passes you by historic
town after historic town and achingly
beautiful countryside. Fans of Downton
Abbey may want to stop by Highclere
Castle; it’s a busy stop today but a drive
from that point to Marlborough takes in
some of the most spectacular countryside
in the south of England.
Before arriving at Marlborough,
the village of Great Bedwyn offers a
myriad of incredible experiences. First is
Wilton Windmill, a rare example of a
maintained windmill, with private guided
tours available and bags of flour to take
home. For fans of the industrial era, one
of the UKs most significant industrial
treasures - the world’s oldest working
steam engine at Crofton Beam Engines,
is close by. Designed by Watt, the man
who spurred the industrial revolution with
the first efficient steam engine, this engine
has been pumping water up for the
nearby canal for over 200 years. Enjoy a
private, guided tour before stopping for
lunch at the award winning Three Tuns
Freehouse.
Whilst Stonehenge is recognised
the world over, just twenty miles north
of it lies another prehistoric UNESCO
world heritage site that to me at least,
is more awesome, mysterious and
magical. Avebury Stone Circle is the
largest stone circle or ‘henge’ anywhere
58 BritishTravelJournal.com
GREAT WEST WAY
“Silchester has to be one of the most incredible hidden
gems along the Great West Way... It’s an extraordinary
place to visit; quiet, peaceful and evocative”
in Europe. Located within a gentle bowl
of hill lines, its scale and location is truly
awe inspiring. By way of comparison,
Stonehenge’s diameter is approximately
98 metres, whilst Avebury’s is 347 metres
across. And although we are fairly confident
about Stonehenge’s purpose, Avebury’s
remains a mystery. Touch its imperious stones
and walk along its enormous earth-banks,
built up out of the chalk spoil taken from
the deep, wide ditches beneath and gaze
upon the prehistoric monuments that dot
the landscape all around it. Aside from the
stone circle itself, Avebury also boasts several
other fascinating prehistoric features nearby;
the 2.5km stone avenue that links Avebury
to the ancient Ridgeway path, Silbury hill,
the largest man-made mound in Europe
built over generations, similar in size to a
contemporary Egyptian pyramid, and finally,
West Kennet Long-barrow. This ancient
burial chamber was first constructed over
5500 years ago and remained in constant
use for over a thousand years. Step inside
to discover remarkable Neolithic burial
chambers and the detritus of modern-day
druids and pagans who still enter the tomb to
leave votive offerings of candles, corn dollies
and ribbons in honour of the spirits. It’s a
completely ethereal experience.
If a change of scene is required, perhaps
a sensory experience like tasting some of
the fine local produce would be desirable?
Cheesemakers, Distillers, Artisan food
producers can be found dotted across the
region, but perhaps unexpectedly, so can
wine-makers. England, not traditionally
known for its wines, is fast developing
as a wine producing nation. Its southern
chalk soils are perfect bedding ground for
champagne style varietals and the warming
climate is rapidly making southern England
a Goldilocks zone for such wines. It’s still very
much a cottage industry, but outstanding
vineyards are emerging across the Great
West Way region. One such vineyard is
a’Beckett’s Vineyard. Stop by for a private
tour of the facilities, vines, process and of
course, a wine tasting. As a contrast to the
luxury hotel, a great alternative is a stay at
a private rental. The Three Daggers Spa
Barn. The Three Daggers was originally a
simple coaching inn on the road at Edington,
Wiltshire, but today, under the stewardship
of a wealthy and passionate owner, it boasts
one of the finest restaurants in the area, as
well as its own craft beer brewery (which
can be visited privately), a first-class farm
shop filled with local produce and delicious
delicacies and pickles no longer in common
use. Most importantly however, is the
accommodation itself. The Three Daggers
has its own rooms, but also offers one of the
most sumptuous, private and well-equipped
private holiday rentals anywhere in the region.
The Three Daggers Spa Barn is a complex of
buildings for private hire that sits high above
the road and inn below, looking across to
the vale beyond. The vista is breathtaking;
stunning hill-lines, fields, villages and distant
towers and church spires fill the view. Enjoy
a little tranquillity, quietly reading under soft
light, on a comfy sofa whilst gazing across
the view from the comfort of the glass-fronted
barn that serves as the communal living à
BritishTravelJournal.com 59
GREAT WEST WAY
“Bath also offers the
perfect base from which
to explore the local
region – in essence, to
discover England.”
Pictured left-right: The Henge Shop,
Marlborough; Great Chalfield Manor,
Wiltshire and Caen Hill Locks at Devizes
Images courtesy of greatwestway.co.uk
area. Or clamber into the spa-pool at the very
top of the property, enjoying a glass or two of
champagne, as dusk falls on the scene below
and the bubbling heated waters of the pool
turn to steam as they meet the cool air above.
Stonehenge is an ideal stop the following
day; it’s a must-see but whilst ‘inner-circle
access’ tours are possible, unless you plan
on block-booking the entire 30 inner-access
places, a guided tour with a knowledgeable
expert offers a better experience. The newly
installed path allows visitors to come within
a few metres of the stones during regular
hours whilst an inner-access tour means that
you’ll always be struggling to keep the 20
plus other people out of your photos as they
wander inside the circle.
There’s also an incredible variety of
options for venturing away from the wellknown
as well. For those interested in grand
historical houses, and breath-taking gardens,
a visit to Great Chalfield Manor is a must.
Owned by the same family who’ve held it
since the early 1800s, it is now partially
maintained by the National Trust so open to
the public, but available for private viewings.
Lunch or drinks on the lawn with Patsy and
Robert is a spectacular experience worth
investing in.
However you choose to fill your day, the
next stop is Bath, and there is no better way
of heading into this fabulous historic town
than by climbing aboard a narrow boat at
Bradford on Avon and making the gentle
cruise into Bath over a matter of four or
so hours. The canal was built to facilitate
the movement of goods in the industrial
revolution but today, travelling the stretch of
canal from Bradford on Avon to Bath offers
one of the most relaxing and interesting
experiences you could hope for. Say hello to
other canal residents, stop at one of the pubs
or cafés enroute, journey over great stone
viaducts, through picturesque tunnels and
deep locks, and pass creamy coloured stone
rows of Georgian houses, emerging in the
heart of Bath. There’s no better way to enter
the city.
When it comes to accommodation in
Bath, there simply is no better choice than
the Royal Crescent Hotel. Located at the
centre of one of Europe’s most recognised
and celebrated residential buildings, the
hotel provides luxury, comfort and an oasis
of peace for visitors to this extraordinary
city. Boasting period rooms and décor as
befits a building that symbolised the zenith
of Georgian architecture and British imperial
confidence, the Hotel’s restaurant is firstclass
as are its spa and facilities. Its greatest
asset to me though, is its gardens. Located at
the rear of the building and enclosed by the
converted coach-houses behind, the hotel’s
gardens are a hidden gem in themselves
and the perfect place to enjoy an afternoon
tea. Just minutes from all of the attractions
of Bath, yet purposefully designed as a
suburb to the city in the 1770’s, so that the
residents could enjoy the pleasures of getting
a sedan chair into, and out of town, the
Royal Crescent Hotel offers the opportunity
to stay in a world-famous heritage building,
alongside the service, facilities and
tranquillity expected of a 5-star hotel.
Bath itself is a city that deserves a stay
of several nights. Though it can be seen
in a day, a more leisurely stay to explore
its UNESCO world heritage protected
architecture, incredibly well-preserved
Roman Baths complex, majestic Abbey,
and plethora of art galleries, small museums,
restaurants, bars, streets, independent shops
and one of the best theatres in the country, a
single day in Bath is a little miserly.
Bath also offers the perfect base from
which to explore the local region – in essence,
to discover England. Located at the southern
tip of the Cotswolds, Bath is less than an hour
from Stonehenge, Glastonbury, Cheddar
Gorge, Bristol and Wales. The region is à
60 BritishTravelJournal.com
Descend into an expansive and eccentric land, populated with over 1,000 animals from all
continents. Delve into 450 years of history spanning 16 generations of the Thynn family
with Longleat House; one of the finest examples of Elizabethan architecture in Britain.
Home to the UK’s original safari park established in 1966, Longleat is also the only
animal collection in England to have southern koalas.
Book online at longleat.co.uk and save up to 15%, group discounts also available.
Explore Gough’s Cave where the oldest, most complete skeleton in Britain, dating back
10,000 years, was discovered in 1903. Wander up the 274 steps of Jacob’s Ladder and then on
to the highest, inland limestone cliff formation to find an abundance of wildlife including the rare
Cheddar pink, then descend into the caves to marvel at the beautiful, natural rock formations.
Book online at cheddargorge.co.uk and save up to 15%, group discounts also available.
Follow the paths taken by generations of travellers…
Discover Longleat and Cheddar Gorge & Caves,
both within easy reach of the Great West Way.
GreatWestWay.co.uk
Kids go
FREE
EXPLORE THE GREAT WEST WAY ®
WITH AN EXPERT GUIDE
Chauffeur driven tours with a Blue Badge Guide
www.southwestdriverguide.co.uk | southwestguide@gmail.com
GREAT WEST WAY
Pictured below left-right: The
Cross Baths; Pulteney Bridge and
river weir; Clifton suspension
bridge; and Royal Ascot
teeming with history, landscapes, artisans,
food and beverage producers, gardens,
grand houses, steam railways and more.
In fact, Bath and the region offer so many
interesting choices for those looking to
do something unique and different, from
private dining whilst enjoying the historic
‘Cross Bath’, to enjoying private tours of its
galleries or museums, to caving, boating,
ballooning or a private steam train ride with
dinner served in a historic dining car, Bath
and the region offer almost anything you
can imagine.
Bath’s larger neighbour, Bristol, is the
end point for the Great West Way, and is
just as worthy of a stay as Bath.
The two cities are connected by a 15
minute train ride, and are often seen as
twin cities. If that is so, they are more
Danny Devito and Arnold Scwartzenegger
than identical siblings. Bristol, just inland
from the mouth of the River Avon, was
historically England’s second port (after
London) until the industrial revolution
made larger ships and deeper ports
Liverpool, Glasgow and Belfast more
relevant. Whereas Bath is small, genteal
and homogenous (both in its architecture
and residents), Bristol is diffuse, edgy,
industrial and creative. Bristol is a city of
neighbourhoods and diverse experiences.
It’s an incubator for art and creativity
(Banksy, Wallace and Gromit, Portishead
and the Chemical Brothers all originate
in Bristol) but the city is also known for
its industrial innovation; The world’s first
suspension bridge, the world’s first fully
steam powered screw-propelled steam
ship as well as one of the few remaining
Concordes all reside there.
Whatever it is about ‘England’ that
engages and excites you most, the Great
West Way most likely has it and probably
offers the best experience of it you’re
likely to find. It is a true treasure trove of
discoveries, possibilities and experiences.
For those wishing to go beyond the generic
and formulaic - and to do it in style…
Welcome to the Great West Way. u
Jules Mittra is the founder of Around and
About Bath (aroundandaboutbath.com), an
innovative tour company transforming the
local travel experience: From sightseeing to
discovery, meaning and connection.
RESOURCES
Download a Great West Way map
free from their website:
GreatWestWay.co.uk/explore/maps
Order a copy of the Great West Way
Travel Magazine:
isubscribe.co.uk
S U M M E R E V E N T S
ROYAL ASCOT
18-22 JUNE
Arguably England’s most famous – and grandest
– horse racing event, with five days of races each
kicked off by a royal carriage parade. This is your
chance to wave at The Queen and to wear a
fabulous hat!
ascot.co.uk
HENLEY ROYAL REGATTA
3-7 JULY
Established in 1839, this annual regatta attracts
rowing crews from around the world to its five
days of head to head knockout competitions
and is regarded as an integral part of the English
social season.
hrr.co.uk
BATH CARNIVAL
13 JULY
Bath’s biggest party features a procession of
more than 1,000 dancers and musicians through
the city plus plenty of world music on the sound
systems and at Party in the Park in Sydney
Gardens.
bathcarnival.co.uk
BRISTOL INTERNATIONAL
BALLOON FIESTA
8-11 AUGUST
Europe’s largest annual meeting of hot air
balloons brings colour to the sky above Bristol
with twice-daily mass balloon launches and the
chance to take a ride yourself.
bristolballoonfiesta.co.uk
BritishTravelJournal.com 63
I N F O C U S
PETWORTH
West Sussex
Jessica Way heads to Petworth, a picturesque market town nestled in the
heart of the South Downs National Park, to discover that there’s much more to
this stylish up-coming destination than the antique shops it's renowned for
ONE HOUR FROM LONDON, this delightful historic
town with its cobbled streets, hidden lanes and
picturesque chocolate-box cottages, draped in
wisteria, looks more like a quintessentially country-chic
getaway than the stuffy old-fashioned history-buff’s treasure trove
that I’d imagined it to be.
I really had no idea; I am pleasantly surprised to see a town that
has not simply relied on its history and heritage (of which it has a
great deal), or the droves of Mayfair residents, (who flock to its
antiques stores to furnish out their million-pound pads), to keep
afloat. Petworth has moved with the times – and you certainly don’t
need to be among the super-rich to enjoy it.
You can enjoy a day here exploring the town by simply milling
around, no need for your car or much in the way of forward
planning (just the regular town map leaflet readily available to pick
up) - and you won’t be likely to break the amount of steps record on
your fitbit either. Nor will you be bored, go hungry, or feel thirsty –
and this is what surprised me the most about Petworth.
There is enough by way of tea rooms, modern gastro pubs,
delicatessens, fashion and art shops, dotted around the little
market square for a day of culture, shopping and first-class dining
experiences – not to disappoint even that of a Sloane’s highstandards.
Most recently, the New Street Bar & Grill opened its doors (last
summer), previously a fine dining restaurant under the name of The
Leconfield, now a stylishly modern, air-conditioned restaurant and
bar, with pretty patio perfect for alfresco dining on warmer days.
The menu focuses on fresh, top quality local ingredients cooked
simply, to a high standard - with many local suppliers such as
Nyetimber, Goodwood and Nutbourne on the menu.
Expect quality British fare, from daily specials to classics, such
as Marinated Kentish Lamb Rump and Locally Reared Sussex Beef
from the grill, and amongst the starters, Crispy Squid Rings and
Gressingham Duck Croquettes.
Around the corner is 'The Hungry Guest Cheese Room' and if
you didn’t know about it before you might first notice it on the New
Street Bar & Grill dessert menu – not just their cheese, their biscuits
too – in fact there’s a lot more to ‘The Hungry Guest’ story than just
cheese and biscuits...
They have a food shop, a butcher's, and a café in town – I visited
all three and felt rather envious of the locals having such fabulous
fare, artisan foods, and home-made produce within such easy reach
of their daily lives. I am a fan of shopping ‘local’ for my meat, veg,
butcher's and bakery goods, and here you are spoilt for choice.
I was sure to fill up my shopping bags, and savour every mouthful
of the Hungry Guest Breakfast from their café (Lombard Street just
off the main square, they serve food here all day) – award winning
sausage, dry cured bacon, slow roasted tomatoes, Portobello
mushroom, poached eggs and sourdough toast. Their coffee,
although not their own brand (it was Illy, awarded the most ethical
coffee company in the world), was so good that I went back to their
shop (in Middle Street) to buy some of my own.
Back to the cheese – they have an exceptional collection of
artisan and farmhouse, many sourced from the British Isles. à
64 BritishTravelJournal.com
BritishTravelJournal.com 65
“There’s a plethora of
walking trails to choose
from, rolling countryside
and open park spaces
surround this town.”
The Cheese Room is lined with classics such
as Cheddar, Stilton and Roquefort as well
as less familiar cheeses, such as Bleu de
Termignon and Brie de Meaux.
Don’t be put off by the glass-sided walk-in
doors either, you are encouraged to go in and
ask questions (and taste the cheese). The
doors are there to keep the humidity up and
the temperature down, not the cheese-lovers
out. There’s a Cheesemonger who will be
there to offer you advice, and recommend
accompaniments too… pickled cherries,
truffle honey or fig paste anyone?
From savoury to sweet – there’s also a
traditional sweet shop well-worth a visit,
Coco Café and Sugar Lounge, where oldfashioned
sweet jars are filled with whimsical
delights – bonbons, lollies, liquorice and lots
more. Coco Lola – the ice cream van is open
from April -October for ice cream, sundaes,
knickerbocker glorys and sodas – and it
also makes a great option for lunch offering
more than the name suggests, served in the
charming sugar lounge, designed to feel
reminiscent of the film ‘Chocolat’.
Aside from spending my time eating, I
met many independent-shop owners, selling
quirky gifts, art, and on-trend fashion, all
within a short walk (or loop) from the central
market square. Shopping here is a millionmiles
away from the modern commercial
high streets - and this is before I’ve even
mentioned the word ‘antiques’.
Petworth is internationally recognised
as being a major hub for antiques, often
being described as ‘The Antiques Centre of
the South’. There are over 30 antique shops
dotted around the town – with interior brand
name, Augustus Brandt taking pole position –
with both a showroom and lifestyle shop, each
within easy walking distance of each other.
Augustus Brandt's 7,500 square feet
showroom is the jewel in the crown - an
enticing destination store for home interiors,
set within the inspirational surroundings
of Newlands House, a spacious Georgian
Grade II listed town house and adjacent
coach house. Give yourself enough time to
visit here – there’s over 17 different rooms to
explore (open six days a week).
Discover a carefully curated selection of
objects, bridging antique and contemporary
furniture, artworks, photography and
collectables from renowned designers, such
as Linley and William Yeoward. There is a
room dedicated to Lucan Fashion country
and shooting clothing and a new room
promoting celebrated Brazilian furniture
designer, Casa Botelho.
There’s also an ever-expanding range of
gifts and offerings, including Mungo and
Maud pet accessories, Argentine home
brand, La Claraz, and Italian leather store,
Giobagnara.
Then there’s the lifestyle store in Market
Square – selling a gorgeous range of
accessories, furnishings and gifts. You will
find collections from brands such as David
Linley, established by the Queen’s nephew,
with gifts in wood, leather, glass and silver
to the colourful Santorus ranges of bold and
colourful silk scarves and stationery.
It was a beautifully crafted Quaternity Chess
set which caught my eye, priced £1,500
(Instruction Book Included) but not yet
having mastered the 2-player game I decided
I was not quite ready for the 4-player version
and resisted temptation, opting instead for a
candle from the famous Cire Trudon, France’s
oldest candle company, priced £75.
With all this food and shopping choice,
you might feel the need to walk it off, and with
Petworth’s rural location, set in the heart of
the South Downs National Park, you are in the
right place. There’s a plethora of walking trails
to choose from, rolling countryside and open
park spaces surround this town.
A favourite with the locals is Petworth
Town and Shimmings Valley path (ifootpath.
com), or for longer rambles try Pulborough to
Petworth (walkingclub.org.uk).
Then there’s Petworth Park itself.
Wandering through the streets you are
unlikely to go far without coming across
a National Trust sign for Petworth House
and Gardens. One of the country’s most
famous stately homes, surrounded by a vast
wall, which, according to the locals, was
constructed to keep the servants in rather
than the vagabonds out.
Spanning 900 years of history and
passing through just one family, Petworth
House was built as to rival the palaces of
Europe - a vast mansion set in a beautiful
283-hectare (700-acre) deer park,
landscaped by ‘Capability’ Brown and
immortalised in Turner’s paintings.
You can step inside this English 'Versailles'
for £15.90 for an adult/£8.00 for a child,
and while the gardens adjoining the house
are included in the entry fee, you can access a
larger portion of them – known as à
66 BritishTravelJournal.com
HOLIDAYS IN HOMES OF DISTINCTION
in Petworth and locally in the South Downs National Park
SOARING
IMPOSING
For availability and choice of 20 cottages around
Petworth and over 80 in the South Downs please visit
our website or give us a call on 01798 877336
www.amberleyhousecottages.co.uk
Ancient Castle,
Stately Home & Gardens
for more details, call
01903 882173 or visit
www.arundelcastle.org
FREE HOUSE • EAST DEAN
FREE HOU
FREE HOUSE • EAST DEAN
FREE HOUSE • EAST DEAN
FREE HOUSE • EAST DEAN
FREE HOUSE • EAST DEAN
THE STAR & GARTER IS A GORGEOUS COUNTRY PUB, WHICH NESTLES IN THE
SOUTH DOWNS NATIONAL PARK AT THE HEART OF THE GOODWOOD ESTATE.
THE STAR & GARTER IS THE A GORGEOUS STAR & GARTER COUNTRY IS THE A GORGEOU
PUB, STAR WHIC & GA
SOUTH DOWNS NATIONAL SOUTH PARK DOWNS AT THE NATIONAL HEART SOUTH OF PARK THE DOWNS AT GOT
THE STAR & GARTER EAT, DRINK IS A & GORGEOUS BE MERRY! COUNTRY PUB, WHICH NESTLES IN THE
THE THE STAR STAR & GARTER & GARTER IS A SOUTH GORGEOUS DOWNS IS A GORGEOUS COUNTRY NATIONAL #FOLLOWTHESTAR
COUNTRY PUB, PARK WHICH AT THE PUB, NESTLES HEART WHICH IN OF THE THE GOODWOOD ESTATE.
NESTLES IN THE
SOUTH SOUTH DOWNS DOWNS NATIONAL NATIONAL PARK AT PARK THE HEART AT THE OF HEART THE GOODWOOD OF THE GOODWOOD ESTATE.
ESTATE.
01243 811 EAT, 318 DRINK & BE MERRY!
EAT, INFO@THESTARANDGARTER.CO.UK
DRINK & BE MERRY! #FOLLOWTHESTAR
D @STARANDGARTERED EAT,
E DRINK
@THESTARANDGARTEREASTDEAN & BE MERRY!
Q @STAR_GARTER
#FOLLOWTHESTAR EAT, DRINK & BE MERRY!
#FOLLOWTHESTAR 01243 811 318
01243 811 INFO@THESTARANDGARTER.CO.UK
318 #FOLLOWTHESTAR
INFO@THESTARANDGARTER.CO.UK
01243 811 318
INFO@THESTARANDGARTER.CO.UK
THE
BLUE BELL
D @STARANDGARTERED E @THESTARANDGARTEREASTDEAN Q @STAR_GARTER
D @STARANDGARTERED E @THESTARANDGARTEREASTDEAN Q @STAR_GARTER
01243 811 318
D @STARANDGARTERED E @THESTARANDGARTEREASTDEAN Q @STAR_GARTER
EMSWORTH
EAT, DRIN
#FOLLO
0124
Petworth Park – for free. Simply pass through
the long tunnel and some rather grand iron
gates to explore the 700-acre park at your
leisure.
WHERE WE STAYED
Ryde House, on Angel Street, a newly
refurbished three-bedroom Georgian villa
tucked away almost secretly (by just a simple
gate in the wall) from the quiet town - the
shops, pubs, restaurants, butchers', bakery,
and other yet-to-be discovered attractions,
just a short stroll away from our front door.
The property is grand and beautifully
furnished, in fact it could nearly be mistaken
for another of Augustus Brandt’s luxurious
showrooms. Elegant and understated, an
early 19th Century Grade II listed building -
full of charm and character.
There's a pretty walled courtyard garden
to welcome you before you reach the front
door. Inside the interiors are just as grand,
there’s a large sitting room, a dining room,
light and spacious Shaker style kitchen, three
cosy bedrooms and bathroom upstairs. There
is plenty of room here to entertain, and to feel
completely at home amid the antique rugs,
woven tapestry, cosy cushions and fireplaces.
Thought has been given to the details,
with luxury touches, such as a delightful (yes
you’ve guessed it Hungry Guest!) hamper of
foodie treats waiting for you in the kitchen,
fresh flowers in the dining room, to the
selection of games, movies, books and music
inviting you to start the wood burner, light
the candles, and rejoice in the sitting room.
High-ceilings, grand staircase and long
passageways give the property a feeling
of space and elegance, while the mix of
antique furniture with modern styling, neutral
colours, and homely furnishings, is both
relaxing and energising.
Under the same ownership as Ryde
House is the wonderfully stylish Angel Inn
(practically next door) with origins as old as
Petworth House, and where modern luxury
comes as standard; this is another great
option for breakfast, lunch or dinner.
You can also stay here - there are seven
beautifully designed guest rooms, medieval
origins, reflected in original beams, fireplaces
and quirky passageways.
Aside from the architecture, food and
luxury accommodation, Petworth is a
destination of art, culture and music.
To experience the town’s full zenith
of community spirit, with proud locals
displaying their ‘home-grown’ talent, then
the Petworth Summer Festival, (16 July-3
August) is a must. See the town come alive
with classical concerts, jazz, cabaret, theatre,
comedy and visual arts.
There are events all through the year,
to include the pertinent Petworth Park
Antiques and Fine Art Fair (10–12 May),
Petfringe (12 April) comedy, the nearby
Goodwood Revival (13-15 September) and
Festival of Speed (4-7 July), and later in
the year the Literary Festival returns (26
October-3 November).
With all this just over an hour’s drive
from London and only 30 minutes from
the south coast, I’m surprised more people
aren’t packing up their bags and heading to
Petworth. Cultural treasures, locally farmed
fare, stylish shops, beautiful countryside - It
certainly ticked all the right boxes for me. u
P L A C E S T O V I S I T
PETWORTH HOUSE
Inspired by the Baroque palaces of Europe,
a stately mansion nestled housing the finest art
collection in the care of the National Trust.
nationaltrust.org.uk
SOUTH DOWNS NATIONAL PARK
From rolling hills to bustling market towns, the
South Downs National Park's landscapes cover
1,600km2 of breathtaking views and hidden rural
gems. A rich tapestry of wildlife, tranquility and
visitor attractions.
southdowns.gov.uk
COWDRAY PARK
The home of polo in the South of England. Enjoy
a relaxed picnic lunch lawn side watching some of
polo's highest rated players, or enjoy 18 holes on
Cowdray's revered golf course.
cowdray.co.uk
GOODWOOD ESTATE
The Goodwood Estate in the heart of West Sussex
is not only home to world famous events, Festival
of Speed, Goodwood Revival and the Qatar
Goodwood Festival, there is also The Goodwood
Hotel, Waterbeach Spa, two golf courses, and
sustainable restaurant, Farmer, Butcher, Chef.
Plus there are a number of driving and flying
experiences for an unforgettable day out.
goodwood.com
WEST DEAN GARDENS
Nestled at the foot of the South Downs, West
Dean Gardens is one of the country's greatest
restored gardens. Visitors can explore a wide
range of historic features on a gentle walk around
the grounds.
westdean.org.uk/gardens
BritishTravelJournal.com 69
W E E K E N D B R E A K
FISTRAL BEACH
NEWQUAY
Cornwall
Cornwall is known for its stunning beaches, world-class surfing, fresh seafood and
picturesque harbours. In pursuit of a taste of this summer-utopia, Jessica Way
takes a family weekend break to Newquay's iconic Fistral Beach on the west coast
A
“ SURFERS PARADISE”. “But mum I can’t surf?” said
my 15 year old daughter as we travelled the four
hour car journey from Southampton. “It’s ok”,
I reassured her, we’ll take a lesson together. We
could have caught a flight (its just 40 minutes from London
Gatwick to Newquay) but with four wet suits, bodyboards and
beach towels filling up the roof rack, we made the right choice.
The excitement levels rise as we reach the hotel, both
daughters recognising the dramatic Victorian red brick
immediately from one of their best-loved movies, The Witches,
from the book by Roald Dahl. We are staying at The Headland
Hotel – where the Grand High Witch (Anjelica Huston) plotted
to kill children, turning them into mice, and where the Hotel
Manager (Rowan Atkinson) tried desperately to protect his
hotels' reputation.
We arrive to check in, though sadly it’s not with Rowan
Atkinson, however we are told about him – “in real life he is just
like Mr Bean…” the girls chuckle and Joshua (Front of House
Operations Manager) continues… “On one occasion, he ran a
bath, and went to bed without turning the taps off. The flood
70 BritishTravelJournal.com
Images © Matthew Hawkey
▶
reached the ground floor from his second-floor bedroom and
all the equipment, the photocopier, electric typewriters, that
were in the film’s production office (in the first-floor bedroom)
were completely written off!”.
The grand lounge is in view from the reception desk,
accessible through a white-wooden panelled glass door
frame. It invites us in to further explore the red carpet and
stylish antique furniture; white beaming arches, high ceilings,
chandeliers, fireplaces, and fabulous draping curtains around
the great bay windows, where light is flooding in to the hotel.
This is modern luxury - the grotty carpets and shoddy
interiors are nowhere to be seen. “It’s rooms 223, 227 and 205
that were used in the movie” Joshua tells us. “(No, I’m sorry
girls – that’s not where we are staying tonight)”. We are gently
escorted to follow the porter back outside – and as we walk,
we agree, any wide-eyed children looking around the hotel for
mice today would be likely to fail.
as has its spa (the first ‘Five Bubble’ rated spa in the region) –
and they are not stopping there. The overall ambition is huge,
with the launch of a stunning new outdoor swimming pool
and leisure complex planned for launch in 2020 – and more
recently the announcement of their new 5-star self-catering
cottages. Perched on a private clifftop, luxury cottages just
yards from the UK's most famous beach? Yes please!
We were lucky enough to be amongst the first to try
them out. Designed to offer a more flexible, relaxed coastal
experience, and as an alternative option to staying in one of
the 95 bedrooms within the hotel, but still offering guests use
of their hotel, spa and rosette-worthy dining.
Like ours, most of the holiday cottages (there are 39 in
total) offer ocean views, and outdoor spaces such as a deck,
balcony or lawn, and I loved that seasonal and fresh farm à
WHERE WE STAYED
The Headland Hotel and Spa are celebrating 40 years (in
2019) since the owners John and Carolyn Armstrong first
bought the property. A labour of love – it has cost them
around £30 million over four decades on improvements and
repairs. Though this is an investment that has paid off; the
multi-award-winning hotel has been completely transformed,
As featured
on our front
cover!
Pictured
left:
Enjoying
lunch on
the terrace
at The
Headland
Hotel
BritishTravelJournal.com 71
produce could be delivered direct to your door. The interior is
as awesome as the waves from the sea below, surf-inspired,
coastal chic, with luxury touches throughout – as well as
practicality, such as having a large area for hanging and
drying your wetsuit.
There’s a modern, beachy, sky blue and turquoise green
colour scheme, complimented by crisp white paint work,
contemporary artwork, painted wooden shutters, light oak
furniture, bright flowers, colourful fruit bowls, and stylish
candles splashing vibrant colour throughout the large open
plan kitchen and living area. Light and airy – and the views
are spectacular.
You need to walk across the hotel car-park to get to the
spa, located at the rear of the hotel, but they are happy for
you to stroll around in your dressing gown and slippers. The
spa includes six stylish treatment rooms, to include a VIP
suite, Rhassoul mud chamber and Swedish sauna, there’s also
a Cornish salt steam room, hot tub, aromatherapy showers,
hydrotherapy pool and state-of-the-art gym. I escaped to
enjoy a lovely 40 minute Indian Head Massage, then it was
time to hit the beach.
THE PERFECT WAVE
Forget Maui and Malibu, Newquay's famous Fistral Beach
has some of the best breakers around. Between autumn and
spring surfers can test their skill with impressive swells known
to reach up to 12 feet high. This much-loved beach is known as
being one of the most consistent and best surfing beaches in
Europe. Summer is perfect for beginners to have a go though,
with 1-4ft waves gracing the shoreline.
Surfing aside, it’s a beautiful long and sandy beach, backed
by dramatically beautiful rocks and cliffs. It’s a great allrounder,
perfect for strolling, sunset-watching and sandcastles,
as well as being home to a number of restaurants, including
Rick Steins famous fish & chips (or try the take-away Pad Thai
Pictured
left: Jessica's
husband and
daughters
outside The
Headland Hotel
overlooking
Fistral Beach
72 BritishTravelJournal.com
noodles – delicious!) Another must try is the Fistral Beach Pasty
Shack, serving one of the best Cornish Pasties you will find in
Cornwall - simply, delicious food.
So although Fistral Beach has earned its place as the
destination choice of many competitions and festivals in every
surfer's competitive and social calendar, it is also a friendly,
lively, picturesque spot, welcoming to everyone – including
those who, like me, are in search of their first taste of wavefuelled
excitement.
First, we head down to the Surf Sanctuary to get kitted
out for these wave-riding endeavours. The Headland offers
introductory surf classes, hire, and improver and private
lessons, as well as coasteering, kite surfing and stand-up
paddle boarding. We opt for straightforward surfing…
though we discover it's far from straightforward!
Even the 4ft waves we find challenging. We spend
more time practising our method on the beach than we do
actually attempting the waves. However, it’s great fun, our
instructor is fantastic, and we are enjoying the experience.
By the afternoon we are back in the sea, full of grit and
determination, and with a lot of super-fast arm paddling our
persistence starts to show signs of paying off. The girls are
catching the occasional wave, while I am mostly on my knees,
until finally I stand and, keeping my balance, don’t fall. It’s
taken me what feels like a million attempts, but it’s all worth it
for that one wave – incredible. I feel so alive, I can actually surf
(well, kinda).
DURING BOARDMASTERS
Boardmasters Festival, held every August, (7-11 August 2019)
is a great time to visit – the beach is transformed into a vibrant
surf festival complete with installations, live music, Cornish
food stalls and bustling surf shopping village.
In fact, the festival has become so popular that it’s split
between two iconic locations, Fistral Beach and Watergate
Bay (a 20 minute drive from The Headland Hotel). During the
festival, Watergate Bay is the home to the main music arena.
With multiple stages, bars, foodie feasts, fest-stalls and rides,
it’s a show-stopping music-lover’s haven. u
BritishTravelJournal.com 73
Enjoy a taste of the exotic this summer.
In collaboration with iconic British designer Matthew Williamson,
Newby Teas presents three limited edition luxury tea caddies containing
bespoke tea blends that fire the imagination and stir the senses.
Exclusively at
www.newbyteas.co.uk
INVESTOR
M O D E R N B R I T I S H A R T
Panter & Hall. Donald Hamilton-Fraser RA (1929-2009) Study Spinnaker
Words | Emma Johnson
Buying something beautiful, that may eventually provide a return on your investment, is a great way to own a
piece of British art history. And there has never been a more provident time to invest in Modern British Art à
BritishTravelJournal.com 75
Pictured Left-Right:
Banksy, The Kissing
Coppers and Gladwell
& Patterson, Francis
Picabia, both featuring at
Masterpice London 2019.
THE TREND FOR INVESTING in high net worth
items such as wine, art and rare books is often
fuelled by media headlines proclaiming huge
profits from recent sales - Hugh Grant, for
instance, pocketed an £11 million profit for selling an
Andy Warhol, and more recently, in November 2018, a
David Hockney painting made $90.3 million at auction.
And, while it can be a good way to put your money into
something that you love, and that may bring a decent
return over time, experts warn that caution is still to be
advised. “These kinds of profits are black swans in the
every day world of art dealing,” says Matthew Hall,
founder and director of Panter & Hall Gallery in London.
This is not to say, however, that in general, areas of
the art world cannot rise significantly in value. Tastes
change and whole schools of painting or individual
artists can be rediscovered through a new interior design
trend, or the concerted efforts of a dealer with a vested
interest. In addition, art lasts for hundreds of years, and
in many cases outlives its owners; while the wide-ranging
availability of art from different genres and artists, means
all budgets are accounted for too. For the investor, those
on a limited budget can invest in an emerging artist when
their prices are low, while those with bigger budgets or
more knowledge can choose to pick a painting at a good
price, and at a good time.
THE CASE FOR MODERN BRITISH ART
But what is the right time, or the right painting? For
British art, it is now. British art has always been a fairly
robust area of the art market, and it has consistently
proven itself to be central to the art world. Modern
“Remember
that condition
is everything.
Always check
the condition
of a work and
make sure to
research any
conservation
or restoration
work carried
out. ”
British Art is a direct result of the wealth of talent in
the UK, which has some of the most highly regarded
art schools in the world and many of the world's most
acclaimed galleries and museums. It has for centuries
produced world-famous artists and continues to
have an outstanding record for producing extremely
talented new artists with investment potential. “Where
better to acquire a work of art than from a country that
continues to produce ground-breaking artists,” says
Matthew Hall.
Essentially covering the area of 20th century British
paintings, sculpture and works on paper, Modern
British Art has a solid international reputation. Typified
by a wide-ranging approach to style and genre,
covering two world wars and over a century of work,
it is an era that continues to evolve, as many modern
artists that don’t consider themselves ‘contemporary’
have fallen under the Modern British bracket. Key
names include Francis Bacon, Lucian Freud, David
Hockney, Barbara Hepworth, Howard Hodgkin, L.S.
Lowry, Ben Nicholson, Henry Moore and Bridget Riley
– while Frank Bowling, Stanley Spencer, Damien Hirst,
Banksy, Anish Kapoor, Chris Ofili, Paula Rego, Rachel
Whiteread and Gilbert and George also fall into this
category.
Today, Modern British Art has never been more
popular, says Penny Day, director and head of sales
for modern British and Irish art at Bonhams. “The
field of Modern British Art has seen a real surge in
recent years and I think collectors are drawn to it as
representing good value for money. Unlike the fields of
Impressionist or Contemporary Art, it is still possible
76 BritishTravelJournal.com
DAY-TRIPPER
“Art is a question of taste.
If you truly believe in one
artist’s talent, you’ll be
a great ambassador and
will contribute to seeing
their market value rise ”
to acquire a really good example by a 20th
Century British artist for under £100,000
and indeed prices can start from as low as
£500. Demand has increased year on year
and we see no likelihood of that changing.”
What makes Modern British Art a good
investment of course, is a finite supply of
goods, and the fact that it is a relatively
clear and easy to analyse area of art. There
are tiers of star artists who can be graded
and valued and minor acolytes who benefit
from their associations. “The prevailing
dealer hegemony ensures that the prices are
generally supported both at auction and
at fairs, and the scale of supply allows for
future sustainability,” explains Hall. “What
was an academic backwater is now, thirty
years on, a truly global market and as blue
chip as any art market can be at this level.”
HOW TO INVEST
BE PASSIONATE
As with many investments of this nature, your
first consideration must be a passion for the
subject, long before you consider profits.
“Buy what you genuinely love and can afford
and you should not go too far wrong,” says
Robin Light, director of Crane Kalman
Gallery in London.
It is a view echoed by many of his peers.
“As trite as it sounds, buy something you
love,” continues Hall. “The chances are that
you will be living with it for a very long time,
so you may as well enjoy it.”
Simon Tovey, associate specialist at
Phillips action house in London, who also
heads up their annual New Now show,
echoes this sentiment, explaining that when
you’re talking about an investment of this
nature, money is simply not the only object.
“I would advise that anyone looking to buy
a work of art should treat it as a purchase,
rather than as a financial investment.
Buying artwork should be an emotionally
rewarding investment and an enjoyable
experience.”
“Allow yourself to be guided by instinct,”
adds Vera Kampf who heads up Singulart,
an online art portal. “Art is a question of
taste. If you truly believe in one artist’s
talent, you’ll be a great ambassador and will
contribute to seeing their market value rise.
BE KNOWLEDGEABLE
Investing in art should also be a chance to
indulge a passion or pique an interest. Try
to focus your investment or collection on an
area, medium or specific artist that you like;
picking a theme or a name helps to keep
things coherent, especially if you eventually
want to sell a collection as a whole.
Be appreciative of all there is to learn,
and take time to become knowledgeable.
“Go to museums, galleries, exhibitions
and art fairs,” says Robin Light. “You will
find that most curators, dealers and artists
are interesting, good people. They will
share knowledge and exchange useful
information and views which, in turn,
should help you to make the right decisions
based on your experiences.”
If you find an artist whose works you
admire, look at previous prices achieved
at auction (Artnet and Artprice are good
tools for this) which can give you a good
idea of the market value, and stop you from
overpaying. “Always buy the best example
you can budget for,” advises Simon Tovey.
This might mean a great work on paper
over a lesser painting, or it might mean a
bigger painting over a smaller one that you
prefer. “For a new collector, I would always
say to go bigger if you can, so you’ll have
a stand-out work,” says Rebecca Wilson,
chief curator at Saatchi Art.
Hall agrees with assessment, and
cautions buyers to think not just about
names, but quality too. “There is a
temptation to buy a third-rate work by a
first division artist, however it will always be
a third-rate work. A first-rate work by a à
O N E S T O W A T C H
STANLEY SPENCER
“An A-lister. Spencer’s record for an oil painting
stands at nearly $10m and yet it is still possible to
pick up drawings in the low thousands.” (Matthew
Hall, Panter & Hall)
IDRIS KHAN
“I can get lost in the depth and beauty of each
of his creations be it a large scale print or an
exquisite work on paper such as the one we
recently sold.” (Simon Tovey, Phillips)
ED SAYE
“I don’t think he has had the attention yet that
he deserves and he’s a pretty special artist with a
unique vision and great integrity and technique”
(Sara Ryan, New Blood Art)
ORLANDA BROOM
“She’s a British artist of distinction and
experience, whose works have featured in
many solo shows across the UK.” (Vera Kampf,
Singulart)
ALEC CUMMING
“Alec spends his time between the UK and India,
and travel and new places play a big part in
his works. His paintings are vibrant windows
onto another world, evoking a strong sense of
the distinctive light, sky, and colours of specific
places.” (Rebecca Wilson, Saatchi Art)
FRANCISZKA THEMERSON
“A highly talented Polish artist who relocated
to London in 1940 and founded the influential
Gaberbocchus Press with her husband, and
developed her own distinctive style. (Angus
Granlund, Christie’s)
A Fine Yarn Painting by Alec Cumming
BritishTravelJournal.com 77
A place of luxury
with a wealth of history.
A place of luxury
place of luxury
Welcome to JW Marriott Grosvenor House London. Ideally situated on Park Lane and overlooking
Royal Hyde Park, our hotel offers truly authentic experiences inspired by a unique location.
with A place a wealth of of luxury
history.
with wealth of history.
with a wealth of history.
From the thriving designer shopping district of Mayfair to the world’s most renowned art collections
and museums with outstanding cultural attractions. We offer exceptional guest rooms, a tranquil
Park Room serving the British tradition of Afternoon Tea, with JW Steakhouse, Corrigan’s Mayfair
Welcome to JW Marriott Grosvenor House London. Ideally situated on Park Lane and overlooking
or Ruya Welcome London to for JW exceptional Marriott Grosvenor culinary House experiences. London. Ideally Every situated detail of on your Park Lane stay and with overlooking us is designed
Royal Hyde Park, our hotel offers truly authentic experiences inspired by a unique location.
Welcome Royal Hyde to JW Park, Marriott to our nurture hotel Grosvenor offers and House truly celebrate authentic London. your Ideally experiences personal situated inspired passions.
Park by Lane unique and location. overlooking
From Royal the thriving Hyde Park, designer our hotel shopping offers district truly authentic of Mayfair experiences to the world’s inspired most by renowned a unique art location. collections
From the thriving
Welcome to JW We Marriott look designer forward shopping
Grosvenor to providing district of
House London. you Mayfair with Ideally an to the unforgettable world’s most
situated Park experience
renowned art collections
and museums with outstanding cultural attractions. We offer exceptional guest Lane rooms, and a tranquil overlooking
From and the museums thriving with designer outstanding shopping cultural district attractions. of Mayfair We to offer the world’s exceptional most guest renowned rooms, art collections tranquil
Royal Park Hyde Room Park, serving our the hotel British offers tradition truly of authentic Afternoon experiences Tea, with JW inspired Steakhouse, by Corrigan’s a unique location. Mayfair
Park and museums Room serving with the outstanding British tradition cultural of attractions. Afternoon We Tea, offer with exceptional JW Steakhouse, guest Corrigan’s rooms, a tranquil Mayfair
or Ruya London for exceptional culinary experiences. Every detail of your stay with us is designed
From the Park or thriving Ruya Room London serving designer for the exceptional shopping British tradition culinary district of experiences. of Afternoon Mayfair Tea, Every to the with detail world’s JW of Steakhouse, your most stay renowned with Corrigan’s us is designed art Mayfair
to nurture and celebrate your personal passions.
collections
and museums or Ruya London with outstanding for exceptional to nurture
To make a reservation cultural culinary and celebrate
attractions. experiences. your
visit: londongrosvenorhouse.com
We Every personal
offer detail passions.
exceptional of your stay guest with us rooms, is designed a tranquil
We look forward to nurture to providing and celebrate you with your an personal unforgettable passions. experience
Park Room serving the We British look forward tradition to providing of Afternoon you with Tea, an unforgettable with JW Steakhouse, experience Corrigan’s Mayfair
or Ruya London for We exceptional look forward culinary to providing experiences. you with Every an unforgettable detail of your experience stay with us is designed
to nurture and celebrate your personal passions.
To make a reservation visit: londongrosvenorhouse.com
We look forward To make to reservation providing visit: you with londongrosvenorhouse.com
an unforgettable experience
To make a reservation visit: londongrosvenorhouse.com
ASK THE EXPERT
Crackle Vine on Aluminium, Orlanda Broom
John Bratby, Venetian Backwater
currently lesser-valued artist will always
be a pleasure to live with and has the
potential to rise in value if the artist is rediscovered
by the market in the future.”
BE THOROUGH
Remember that condition is everything.
Always check the condition of a work and
make sure to research any conservation
or restoration work carried out. “Oils can
be cunningly restored but a reputable
dealer will point any problems out and
price accordingly. Damage on works on
paper, particularly prints, can seriously
affect their value,” says Hall.
As with most things, it’s important to
accept what you don’t know, and that
there are those with better knowledge,
insight and connections, who can help
take your passion for something and
turn it into an investment. Decide what
your objective is and choose the help
you need on this basis. If you are buying
purely for investment you need a good
advisor, and if you are buying a piece that
you love, which might eventually lead
to an investment, then go somewhere
like an online gallery or portal where the
selection process has been done for you
and then buy something you like. “Buy
from an agent, dealer or gallery you know
and trust, who has underpinning their
offering a good relationship with the
artists,” says Sara Ryan.
If possible, also buy from a dealer
who is a member of a recognised trade
organisation – LAPADA, CINOA, BADA
or SLAD are the best-known. “Much can
go wrong in buying work from smaller
auctions or unaccredited traders, there
can often be little or no come back in the
small print,” cautions Hall.
NEW NAMES
As you start to gain more confidence
in your investment, you may find your
interests expanding too. Supporting more
contemporary artists is a really interesting
way to develop your art knowledge, and
to help shape the market of the future. “I
love the fact that by investing in emerging
artists you are supporting them right at the
time they need it,” says Sara Ryan... “By
giving them their first endorsement you
are impacting the value of the piece you
have invested in. The artist is encouraged
to make more work, and other collectors
consider them to be collectible, and the
artist gains traction. It’s quite a compelling
combination of ethics meets upside.”
Of course, the most important thing
to remember, is that ‘a good investment’
comes in many guises. “We would all
like our assets to grow, but there is also
the benefit of living with something lifeenhancing
and beautiful,” says Robin
Light. “And being the guardian of a
painting or object, and looking after it for
a certain amount of time and passing it on
for the next generation to appreciate. We
must not forget that most art outlives all
of us.” u
ANGUS GRANLUND,
DIRECTOR, HEAD OF DAY
SALE, MODERN BRITISH ART,
CHRISTIE’S
When investing in art, whether starting a
collection or expanding one, it’s important
to buy from the heart.
î YOU SHOULD WANT TO LIVE
WITH THE WORK YOU BUY,
REGARDLESS OF ITS VALUE
It’s important to view exhibitions to discover
which works strike a chord with you. The Modern
British Art category covers a very broad and
eclectic period of creativity, spanning the 20th
century through to the YBA’s.
î THE FUTURE VALUE OF A WORK
IS DIFFICULT TO PREDICT AND
CAN’T BE GUARANTEED.
Reputable artists like Henry Moore, Barbara
Hepworth and Ben Nicholson will hold their value
over time, while the market for less established
artists is prone to larger fluctuations. Keep an eye
on exhibitions at leading art institutions as these
can help promote an artist to a broader audience.
î AN ARTIST TO WATCH THIS YEAR
IS FRANK BOWLING.
He has a long-overdue retrospective at Tate
Britain from May to August, while Bridget Riley
is having a major retrospective in October at the
Hayward Gallery. We will be offering works by
both of these artists in our June sales.
DON'T MISS
May/June - ‘Sculpture in the Square’, an annual
exhibition of outdoor sculpture in St James’s
Square with large scale pieces from Henry
Moore, Elisabeth Frink and Barry Flanagan.
For more information visit christies.com
BritishTravelJournal.com 79
H O T E L R E V I E W
HECKFIELD
PLACE
Hampshire
A little over an hour from London, a hotel with a no-expense spared
approach to design is redefining British country stays. Chantal Borciani
discovers the hotel Meghan and Harry chose for their private getaway…
THEY SAY THE BEST THINGS come to those who wait,
and in the case of Heckfield Place, the world was waiting
a while. Originally due to open in 2012, the launch of
the most exciting country house hotel to hit the UK
hospitality landscape in two decades finally opened its doors in
September 2018. Passion project of billionaire owner Gerald Chan,
it is rumoured the wait was so the owner could get things just right.
Though, renovating a Grade II listed mansion, where even the stone
plant pots flanking the ornamental fountain are under protective
covenant, would be no nimble feat for any owner.
Set in 400 acres of bucolic Hampshire countryside, Heckfield
Place was home to the Lefevre family for most of the 19th century,
one of the most notable residents being Charles Shaw-Lefevre,
Viscount Eversley, speaker of the House of Commons. Under
Eversley’s head gardener, William Wildsmith, the estate gained
an arboretum and ornamental lake, and became renowned for its
exotic hothouse fruits. Today, undisclosed millions have been spent
on the renovations and the refined and elegant result is still just as
tightly interwoven with the landscape as ever. Mature woodland
cocoons the estate, walled gardens are fragrant with roses and
lavender, and a market garden and biodynamic farm supplies the
hotel’s exquisite restaurants.
At the entrance we are ushered past a sweeping staircase lined
with black and white prints to a floor to ceiling French window. The
team like guests to instantly lay eyes on the rolling countryside that
surrounds them, and the picture window overlooking not one but
two lakes certainly sets the tone for things to come.
We move through to the vast ‘morning room’ (the name
denotes the ideal time to repose and drink in the views) where
early spring sunlight streams through yet more lofty windows,
illuminating reading chairs and silken soft sofas. The bookcase is
filled with literature to make “guests think”, while in the adjoining
Drawing Room an original fireplace is offset with a giant gilded
mirror, and contemporary art punctuates the soothing grey walls
wonderfully. Every day, homemade scones, whipped butter and
seasonal homemade preserves are laid out for afternoon tea; a
blissful nod to the traditions of proper country life.
The interior vision is the work of designer Ben Thompson, who
trained under Ilse Crawford and worked on the revered Ett Hem
hotel in Stockholm. In Heckfield, Thompson has created a sublime
detailed country retreat, where natural textures, plants and a
palette of muted greys, velvet creams and forest greens reflect
the surroundings, while antiques, hand-picked art and crystal
chandeliers add dashes of drama.
In the main house, six spectacular signature rooms are the
grandest offerings, each providing acres of space, lavish bathrooms,
individual designs and even their own bespoke scent. These start
from £1,750 a night, rocketing up to £10,000 for a night in the à
BritishTravelJournal.com 81
hotel’s Long Room. The preserve of the Hollywood elite and
nobility – the Duke and Duchess of Sussex are rumoured to
have chosen Heckfield for their babymoon this year – the
Long Room offers a vast private apartment with vaulted
ceiling, private kitchen, sitting and dining room and secluded
terrace. Fortunately for mere mortals, entry-level ‘Friends’
rooms start at £350 per night.
For (seriously) special occasions, our Master Room, at
£800 a night, was set in the wing known as the ‘Corridors’,
and was all but flawless. Alongside the dressing room,
there’s a luxurious country style bathroom, ample loft-feel
style living space and capacious bed. The suite is dressed
with Georgian timber furniture, hand-knotted wool rugs,
original British artworks from the owner’s private collection,
handmade throws and antiquities that feel lavishly curated
yet rooted in place and purpose. Smaller, artisanal touches
embolden the narrative; a corn dolly is used as the ‘do not
disturb’ sign, your wooden room key (the hotel is soon to
be fully plastic-free) comes in an envelope embossed with
your initials, seasonal bouquets and single stems are deftly
positioned, and woven baskets hang on hooks next to a
wool covered hot water bottle – is there anything more
delightfully English? On the writing desk, a selection of
three tomes including John Ruskin’s On Art & Life and
Virginia Woolf’s A Room of One’s Own feel thoughtfully
selected. Even the mini bars prove noteworthy. Each
cabinet is bespoke and painted to match its room, drawers
glide open, freshly ground coffee is set in handmade pots,
a run of supple leather pouches hold other accoutrement
while homemade cordials and freshly baked cookies sit
snugly in place. Even the kettle is bespoke; jet black and
modernist.
Despite the achingly good interior, Heckfield is as
much about ensconcing one’s self in the land as it is about
snuggling down in your suite’s billowing sofas. There are
Hunter wellies, wax jackets and umbrellas on hand for
guests in the Boot Room and maps of the gardens and
routes around the undulating woodland to follow.
We stroll down the gentle slope past Heckfield’s upper
and lower lakes looping around to the ancient woodland
where California Coast Redwood Sequoias, Blue Atlas
Cedars, Grand Firs and Douglas Firs tower – with some
trees dating back to the 18th Century. A testament to
pioneering horticulturalist William Wildsmith, Heckfield’s
forest, gardens, terraces and walled oasis have been
expertly restored in the last few years and are now a
pleasure ground for guests to explore.
Run biodynamically, Home Farm is also open to guests
and lies at one end of the estate with crops, chickens,
saddleback pigs, a 70-strong flock of sheep and an
expansive market garden and orchard. When we visit,
thousands of tulip bulbs are nearing bloom, soon to be
whisked up the hill to adorn the myriad vases in Heckfield’s
rooms and corridors. In a few weeks, the farm’s peonies,
“Despite
the achingly
good interior,
Heckfield
is as much
about
ensconcing
one’s self in
the land as
it is about
snuggling
down in
your suite’s
billowing
sofas.”
sweet peas and roses will take their place. Similarly, the
produce that grows supplies the changing menus at
Heckfield’s two restaurants; Marle and Hearth.
Skye Gyngell, of London’s Spring restaurant, is the
hotel’s culinary director and both restaurants smack
wonderfully of her commitment to produce and 'field to
fork' dining. Centred around an open fire, Hearth is as
intimate as it is atmospheric. Housed in the renovated
coaching stables and a haven of exposed brick, beams
and earthenware styling, the restaurant is only open
to guests of the hotel and all dishes are cooked on the
crackling fire. Ensure to look skyward during your meal,
as the bell in the clock tower above the Hearth’s tables
is not only older than Big Ben, it was made by the same
brothers who manufactured it.
Marle, named after a class of soil, feels part verdant
summerhouse, part upscale dining room. There’s a lakeview
terrace or tables inside that sit under swathes of
luscious foliage. At one corner, a vast skylight – adorned
with yet more trailing greenery – floods the area with
light and is a beautiful spot for breakfast.
This year, Heckfield will add a vast spa to its box of
tricks (the current bothy spa only has three treatment
rooms) and there are plans afoot for a country pub on
the estate, plus homestays and cookery courses on the
farm. Whatever comes, it is sure to be decidedly upscale
and exceptionally well thought out.
Unstuffy yet brimming with tradition and history,
Heckfield Place may have a royal price tag but it also
offers a new take on sophisticated British luxury where
seasons and nature are intrinsic to the design cues and
character of your stay. u
82 BritishTravelJournal.com
01665 710700 coquetcottages.co.uk
Mae’r gweision yn edrych
ymlaen at eich croesawu i
gartref y Cyrnol Prichard a’ch
diddanu â hanesion eu bywyd
nhw a bywyd y boneddigion!
The servants look forward to
welcoming you to the home of
Colonel Prichard and regaling
you with stories of their life and
those of the Gentry!
Banbury Photography
01443 412248
www.llancaiachfawr.co.uk
15348
Discover Northumberland this summer and
make lasting memories in the finest
collection of award winning family-friendly
& pet-friendly holiday homes on the coast
CarltonCourtMayfair
10 Down Street, Mayfair, London
All services
offered for
no extra
cost!
EXCLUSIVE UNIQUE SERVICED HOTEL APARTMENTS IN MAYFAIR
Stay in home-from-home luxury, from 2 nights onwards, extremely spacious, fully
serviced apartments in the heart of Mayfair, the most exclusive address in London!
Unwind in the comfort of your own self-contained spacious apartment, enjoy fully inclusive
seamless wifi, satellite and sky, 7-days-a-week on-site concierge, daily maid service,
air conditioning, stunning en-suite bedrooms, beautifully equipped kitchens, luxurious
living spaces, and 24 hour security, offering you peace of mind throughout the duration
of your stay. Our selection of newly furnished 1-3 bedroom apartments, and 5 bedroom
Town House are also just a short walk from London’s Piccadilly, Park Lane, Oxford Street
and Bond Street. Excellent value - enjoy all this from a better price than a small hotel room!
+44 20 7493 0597 | WWW.CARLTONCOURT.COM
10of the best
Luxury stays
BRITISH
TRAVEL
JOURNAL
Loves...
ESCAPE TO
THE COAST
BAMBURGH SHEPHERD’S COTTAGE A property with the wow factor - the
views are spectacular. This fabulous large country holiday home sleeps 10 guests and welcomes 2
dogs, with great views out to Budle Bay and just 6 miles from the pretty village of Bamburgh, with
its stunning beach and magnificent castle. This is an ideal family retreat on the peaceful and idyllic
Northumbrian coast. Priced from £875 for a short break coquetcottages.co.uk
BOURNEMOUTH BEACH LODGES
Bright and airy located only a few steps away from
the soft sand and lapping waves. Priced from £295
for a 4 night stay. bournemouthbeachlodges.co.uk
SUFFOLK THE WATCH ROOM
Built at the end of a private track on the site of a
World War II watch station, with coastal views.
Priced from £575 for 3 nights. suffolkhideaways.co.uk
CORNWALL
SALTPONDS HOUSE
An exquisite cottage with a
stunning, unobstructed sea
views. Scandi inspired (there's
a marvellous Scandinavian
Jøtul woodburning stove that is
more like a piece of art!) Grade
II listed luxury cottage to rent in
Mousehole, recently restored with
stunning interiors. Up to 4 guests
and child - Priced from £995 for a
7-night stay. saltpondshouse.com
PEMBROKESHIRE
DRAGON'S EYE
This is a great base to explore
nearby Cardigan Bay, while
enjoying its remote lakeside
position and eye-like design,
Plus, with access to a shared
hot tub, games room and pizza
oven, there is plenty to do on
site. Featured on Channel 4's
'Cabins in the Wild' series.
Priced from £214 for a 3 night
stay, originalcottages.co.uk
84 BritishTravelJournal.com
CORNWALL
THE BEACH HUT
Millook, Widemouth Bay
Perched on a grassy knoll right
on the beachfront, The Beach
Hut is set in the small valley of
Millook between the popular
harbour towns of Bude and
Boscastle. Rediscover the
simple life at this secluded selfcatering
- and iconically Cornish
- beach hut. First built in the
1920s for use as a genteel
tearoom, The Beach Hut is the
ultimate coastal hideaway. This
unique beach shack in North
Cornwall occupies an enviable
nook on the edge of a stunning
coastal 52 acre estate, making
it an idyllic location to inspire
writers, artists and lovers alike.
Up to 2 guests - Priced from
£1,750 per week, £1,295 per
short break. thebeachhut.
uniquehomestays.com
NORFOLK
THE CATTLE SHED
Set in a peaceful village setting
just a few miles from Wellsnext-the-Sea.
New this year, the
loft style luxury, chic apartment
has undergone a complete and
truly sympathetic restoration.
Sleeps 8-10 guests and
welcomes 2 dogs. Priced from
£1,650 per week or from £1,238
for 3 nights' self-catering.
originalcottages.co.uk
CORNWALL
THE SIGNAL STATION
Journey to the end of the earth to this
iconic and historic maritime home settled
high on the cliffs of Cornwall’s wild Lizard
Peninsula. Once offering safe passage
to voyaging ships, The Signal Station is
the most southerly self-catering home in
the land where chic, understated charm
perfectly complements the ever-changing
horizon. Up to 6 guests. Priced from
£1,925 per week, £1,395 per short break.
thesignalstation.uniquehomestays.com
NORTH DEVON WHIMBRELS
Beach or private pool? Sleeps up to 12. Priced
from £1,031 for 3 nights nicheretreats.co.uk
TRESCO FLYING BOAT COTTAGES
luxurious, 5 star hideaways right on the beach.
Priced from £2,205 per week tresco.co.uk
BritishTravelJournal.com 85
COOKERY SCHOOLS
Whether you are a budding chef wanting to finesse your culinary
skills or you just want to try something fun and different - a course
at one of the UK’s best cookery schools is an absolute must
Words | Chantal Borciani
FROM CELEBRITY CHEF-LED KITCHENS TO STUNNING RURAL RETREATS, HERE ARE
SOME OF OUR FAVOURITE COOKERY SCHOOLS THAT THE UK HAS TO OFFER...
MAHÉ - PADSTOW, CORNWALL
Adjoining the acclaimed Paul Ainsworth at No.6 in
Padstow, Mahé is a new cookery school run by the
Michelin-starred chef John Walton in conjunction
with Paul and his wife Emma. It opened in May and
runs from Thursday through to Saturday, providing
an elegant and intimate space in which guests can
discover how to create stunning dishes.
The cookery courses are completely tailored to
each guest and are priced from £250 per person
which includes breakfast, a behind-the-scenes tour,
lunch in No.6’s private room and a goody bag.
86 BritishTravelJournal.com
PIED A TERRE MASTERCLASS KITCHEN
EXPERIENCE - FITZROVIA, LONDON
If you have ever dreamt of working in a Michelinstarred
kitchen, then a culinary masterclass at
London’s Pied a Terre is an absolute must. Every
Friday, five aspiring chefs can enter the kitchen
and work alongside the team; helping them create
some of Pied a Terre’s most renowned dishes.
The class will demonstrate how the restaurant
creates their exciting dishes and will give you the
skills and expertise to take home and try out on
your friends and family. Guests will also receive a
goodie bag full of treats and can enjoy a 4-course
lunch with paired wines.
THE KITCHEN - CHEWTON GLEN, NEW
FOREST, HAMPSHIRE
The Kitchen, a standalone cookery school at Chewton
Glen Hotel & Spa, is headed up by celebrity chef
James Martin. It offers a range of courses, including
baking, seafood and cocktail-making classes.
You can even cook alongside the chef himself.
The ‘Cook with James Martin’ classes are held for a
maximum of 12 guests over a morning or afternoon.
Participants can watch James prepare two of his
favourite dishes, such as lobster ravioli and funnel
cake with blueberry and gin compote, and then will
have the opportunity to try recreating it under his
watchful eye.
Individual classes start from £95, while the ‘Cook
with James’ class is priced at £350 per person.
THE WOODSPEEN RESTAURANT AND
COOKERY SCHOOL - NEWBURY, BERKSHIRE
Run by acclaimed chef John Campbell, the
Woodspeen cookery school runs a wide range of
courses throughout the year. The courses are always
based around seasonal ingredients cultivated from the
school and restaurant's vegetable plot. Participants
can even go out into the plots to pick their produce of
choice.
From simple summer dining to vegan focused
courses, there is something for everyone and each
course is very hands on, which helps develop the
guest’s skills and learning. à
BritishTravelJournal.com 87
Tours & Experiences | Ancient Towns | Stunning Countryside | Hidden Gems | Gourmet Dining
For bookings & more information
www.aroundandaboutbath.com
08000 747949
Proudly partnered with
AAAB_HPH_TravelJournal_AW.indd 1 15/02/2019 09:58
Explore the glorious historic
West Dean Gardens
Enjoy every season at West Dean in the heart of
the South Downs. Relax and unwind with beautiful
Lavant Valley views.
West Dean Gardens, Chichester, West Sussex, PO18 0RX
Tel: 01243 818210
www.westdeangardens.org.uk
RICK STEIN’S COOKERY SCHOOL,
PADSTOW, CORNWALL
If you are a fan of seafood, you should head down
to the delightful town of Padstow in Cornwall to
Rick Stein's Cookery School. Whilst the focus is on
the preparation and cooking of fish, guests can also
participate in classes in Indian, Far Eastern, Italian and
Mexican cuisine.
The cookery school was initially started for the
chefs working at the restaurant to undertake intense
training in the preparation and cooking a fish and
shellfish, but this was eventually offered out to the
public who wanted to develop their skills in preparing
seafood.
From lobster thermidor to Singapore chilli crab,
there are ten different workshops to choose from and
courses start at just £95 for an evening session.
THE NORTHCOTE COOKERY SCHOOL,
BLACKBURN, LANCASHIRE
Step into Northcote’s intimate Cookery School in the
heart of Lancashire and you will soon feel at home.
Whether you are just getting started when it comes to
cooking or are a culinary whizz, a course at the Northcote
Cookery School will provide you with the inspiration and
tips that you need to create new dishes to enjoy at home.
Choose from fundamentals such as preparing
meat and fish dishes, how to create the ideal dinner
party menu as well as more specialist courses such
as advanced cookery techniques. You can even
undertake a course with Northcote’s own acclaimed
Executive Chef Lisa Goodwin-Allen learning to create
three of Lisa’s favourite dishes.
RAYMOND BLANC COOKERY SCHOOL,
GREAT MILTON, OXFORDSHIRE
The Raymond Blanc Cookery School at Belmond
Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons hotel in Oxford runs
a range of cookery courses in kitchens next door to
those of its two-Michelin starred restaurant. Indeed,
the two kitchens are only separated by a series of glass
windows, so you'll feel like a pro no matter what level
of skills you have.
From half-day introductions to dinner party master
classes, there are some great classes to choose from -
many of which focus on recipes and dishes which have
inspired Raymond Blanc himself. à
BritishTravelJournal.com 89
Half day courses start from £185 per person and
include all tuition, ingredients and refreshments, while
full day courses are priced from £365, which also
includes a working lunch.
HH&CO BACKSTAGE AT THE LIME WOOD,
NEW FOREST, HAMPSHIRE
Drawing on Angela and Luke’s fresh, confident
approach to cooking and eating and their signature
home-cooked style, the Lime Wood’s cookery school
HH&Co Backstage offers a unique, fun and informal
way of learning how to cook delicious food!
The courses, which includes Italian cuisine,
seafood, pastry and how to cook that all-important
roast are suitable for everyone from complete
beginners to aspiring master chefs. Their hands-on,
relaxed style aims to improve participants' culinary
skills whilst giving the confidence and inspiration to go
home and get cooking in their own kitchen.
OUTCOOK COOKERY SCHOOL, ALNWICK,
NORTHUMBERLAND
Situated in the heart of Northumberland, the Outcook
Home Cookery School takes an informal and fun
approach towards cooking. From Mediterranean and
South East Asian cuisine to fish and seafood, guests
can either opt to take a regular course or to try a
private bespoke session with one of the school’s chefs.
Either way, you can expect to leave with a lasting
appreciation of both the local Northumbrian produce
and North East hospitality.
THE COOKERY SCHOOL AT
DAYLESFORD, COTSWOLDS NEAR KINGHAM,
GLOUCESTERSHIRE
From beginners looking to learn new skills to more
confident cooks who are looking for more inspiration
in their own kitchens, the Daylesford Cookery School
offers a superb selection of courses that will whet any
appetite.
This unique place of culinary excellence is housed
in a beautifully restored stone barn, surrounded by
stunning Cotswold countryside and 2350 acres of
working farmland. It will equip you with a range of
techniques, recipes and principles to help you make
the most of their delicious seasonal ingredients. u
90 BritishTravelJournal.com
BLUE SKY
THINKING
Open Air Theatre
From cliff tops to abbey ruins, witness world-class open-air
theatre this summer at a range of iconic British locations
Words | Felix Rowe
WHAT COULD
BE MORE
enchanting
than witnessing
live theatre set within one of
the country’s most beautiful
backdrops? Rugged cliff tops,
sandy beaches, lidos, palace
lawns, ancient abbey ruins and
grand country houses – all play
host to critically acclaimed,
award-winning theatre over the
summer. Ideal for all the family,
simply bring a picnic and blanket,
then relax in comfort with a
glass of wine, while the troupe
entertain you as the sun sets.
Outdoor theatre brings you
much closer to the action –
crashing waves and occasional
downpours only add to the
drama, as the actors respond to
heckles from seagulls or sheep.
Countless productions pop
up at jaw-dropping locations
across the UK, offering
everything from Shakespeare
to slapstick, sometimes both at
once. Perhaps unsurprisingly,
A Midsummer Night’s Dream
is a popular choice, with an
array of interpretations to be
experienced.
What’s more, the admission
price will often include pre-show
entry to the garden or country
house hosting the event. We
challenge you to find a better way
to spend a summer’s evening. So
unpack your hamper, get comfy
and let the show begin! à
THE MINACK THEATRE
PORTHCURNO, CORNWALL
Arguably the Holy Grail of British
outdoor theatre, you’ll be hard pushed
to find a more dramatic setting to stage
a performance. Literally perched on a
cliff edge above the Atlantic in far west
Cornwall, the Minack resembles the
ruin of an ancient Greek amphitheatre.
Though an entirely modern creation
fashioned largely out of concrete, its
story is no less fascinating. A gloriously
eccentric lady, Rowena Cade, bought
the remote headland for a mere £100
in the 1920s, and swiftly organised a
production of (yes) A Midsummer Night’s
Dream. Following its success, Rowena
sought a more permanent stage, and
so in the early 1930s began to build
the amphitheatre herself, enlisting the
help of two gardeners. The Minack
staged its first official performance, The
Tempest, to glowing national reviews in
1932. Rowena continued adding to the
theatre throughout her life and could
often be seen hand mixing concrete well
into her 80s. Now, almost 90 years on
from its first performance, the theatre
continues to thrive, with a varied summer
programme including Romeo & Juliet and
Great Expectations.
Box office: 01736 810181
minack.com
94 BritishTravelJournal.com
REGENT’S PARK OPEN
AIR THEATRE
LONDON
Spectacular, world-class theatre staged in
a beautiful Royal Park in the heart of the
capital. If that sounds tempting, then you’re
in luck. Just minutes from Baker Street station,
Regent’s Park Open Air Theatre offers the
calibre of productions you would expect in the
most prestigious West End theatres, only in a
stunning outdoor setting. This summer offers a
vibrant programme, with extended runs of the
English National Opera’s Hansel and Gretel,
A Midsummer Night’s Dream, as well as the
Andrew Lloyd Webber and Tim Rice classic,
Evita. As with the venue itself, these lavish,
large-scale productions are designed to dazzle.
Regardless of your show of choice, it’s bound
to be a spectacle at Regent’s Park. There are
also special relaxed, captioned and audio
description performances on select dates to help
enrich the experience if required.
Box office: 0333 4003562
openairtheatre.com
GLAMIS CASTLE
ANGUS
Where better to witness ‘the Scottish Play’ than
in the grounds of the historic Scottish castle
that actually inspired it? Glamis Castle is a
real feast for the senses. With a thousand-year
history dating back to the real Macbeth, the
current building is largely a seventeenth century
creation, complete with imposing parapets
and turrets. The Ancestral seat of the Earl
and Countess of Strathmore and Kinghorne,
Glamis is both the Queen Mother’s childhood
home and birthplace of her daughter, Princess
Margaret. On 16th July, The Three Inch Fools,
a troupe of five actors and musicians take on
two Shakespeare productions in the grounds.
Sit back and enjoy an evening of Much Ado
About Nothing and Macbeth itself (matinee
performance). To get into the spirit, you can
even take the ‘Macbeth Trail’ in the grounds.
But, with no disrespect intended to the Bard,
the real story of Glamis is perhaps even more
intriguing. The castle’s colourful history
encompasses several shady characters inducing
the ‘Monster of Glamis’, Earl Beardie who
played cards with the Devil, and the ‘White
Lady’ – an apparition for whom a seat in the
chapel still remains reserved to this day.
Box office: Order online
glamis-castle.co.uk
© David Jensen
BritishTravelJournal.com 95
ILLYRIA
NATIONWIDE
Another fantastic touring company is Illyria,
which The Telegraph has rightly labeled ‘top
notch outdoor theatre’. Wherever you find
yourself across Britain this summer, you have a
fairly good chance of catching a performance.
Illyria will be popping up throughout Scotland,
Wales and England in some truly wonderful
locations. Fulham Palace, Glastonbury Abbey,
Sandford Parks Lido, Arundel Castle, The
Lake District, Gordon Castle Walled Garden
(Scotland), Drum Castle (Scotland) – the list
goes on. This year’s programme really does have
something for everyone, with performances of
Ali Baba and the Forty Thieves, Shakespeare’s
The Tempest and Mary Shelley’s Frankenstein
bound to set the country alight.
illyria.co.uk
© Gordon Scammell
96 BritishTravelJournal.com
© National Trust Images / David Watson
MIRACLE THEATRE
ACROSS THE SOUTH WEST
Of course, a stunning venue is something to
behold in itself, but it’s the touring companies
putting on the shows that really make them come
alive. A prime example is Cornwall’s Miracle
Theatre, which celebrates its 40th anniversary
this year with a tour of A Perfect World from June
to August across the South West. The Minack is
just one of many staggering and unusual venues
where you can witness the action, from beaches to
gardens. Some others include a Neolithic henge in
Dorset (Maumbury Rings); a subtropical garden
amphitheatre by the Helford River (Trebah); a cliff
overlooking the Jurassic Coast (Kimmeridge Bay);
various locations on the Isles of Scilly; and several
Cornish castles (Bude, Launceston, Restormel
and St Mawes). To make the St Mawes Castle
performance even more memorable, indulge in the
‘Showboat’ package, taking a specially charted
ferry from neighbouring Falmouth.
miracletheatre.co.uk
© National Trust Images / James Dobson
NATIONAL TRUST
VARIOUS LOCATIONS
Smallhythe Place is but one of countless
National Trust properties nationwide, from
the grand to the snug, that regularly hosts
open-air performances. Whether you hanker
for a classic such as Wuthering Heights, or
perhaps something a little more contemporary
like Gangsta Granny, you’re well catered for.
Many, such as Scotney Castle, offer a VIP
theatre experience, which includes a welcome
drink, as well as a mezze platter to sup on and
a tub of artisan ice cream for the interval – all
to be enjoyed in style and comfort in the VIP
area. What’s more, children are welcome and
under-fives go free. Why not experience Austen
as it should be, in the grounds of a grand stately
home like Attingham Park in Shrewsbury; or
laugh along to Wind in the Willows in a country
pile worthy of Toad Hall. Visit the National Trust
website to find a performance near you.
nationaltrust.org.uk
SMALLHYTHE PLACE
KENT
On a smaller scale, though no less enchanting,
is Smallhythe Place in Tenterden, Kent. In fact
its intimate setting only adds to its charm.
Managed by the National Trust, Smallhythe
Place is a beautifully preserved timberframed
cottage, perhaps dating from the
late fourteenth century. It was once home to
the eminent Victorian Shakespearian actress
Ellen Terry, and her daughter created the
‘Barn Theatre’ in the seventeenth century
thatched barn in her honour. Still going strong
today, it is complemented by several open-air
performances in the beautifully-kept gardens.
The Winter’s Tale is probably the last thing
you’d expect to see in the height of summer,
but this adaptation of Shakespeare’s classic
by Changeling (13th July) is one not to miss,
with the intriguing promise of ‘just a hint of
ABBA’ surely worth investigation alone. Other
summer open-air performances include Alice
in Wonderland (7th August) and Sense and
Sensibility (15th August). Arrive early to enjoy a
pre-show evening picnic in the gardens.
nationaltrust.org.uk
/smallhythe-place
© National Trust Images / David Levenson
BritishTravelJournal.com 97
CITY | COAST | COUNTRY
BRITISH TRAVEL JOURNAL CROSSWORD 02
The first twenty correct crosswords received will be rewarded with a free gift of
Newby Teas - simply send your completed crossword (or the answers) with your
choice of Moroccan Mint, Jasmine Blossom, Earl Grey or English Breakfast tea,
and your postal address, by post to British Travel Journal, Mitchell House, Brook
Avenue, Warsash, Southampton, Hampshire, SO31 9HP,
or email the answers to crossword@britishtraveljournal.com
ACROSS
DOWN
1 Stornoway castle (4)
2 Outgoing type (9)
4 As "Titanic" was supposed
3 DNA collectors (5)
to be (10)
4 Still in R&D (8)
9 Found between Dover and Calais (6) 5 Locale of Dawyck Botanic Garden (5)
10 One way to buy (2,6)
6 Free (2-4)
11 Like Glyndebourne's
7 Writer --- Dumas (9)
auditorium (9-6)
8 Jazz singer Cleo (5)
12 Christmas Dancer? (8)
13 Business as usual (9)
15 Chester's Roman name (4) 14 X-ray dose (3)
18 What a rocker aspires to be (4) 16 Change aviator in turbulence (9)
19 What futile complaints fall on (4,4) 17 Park home to the Princess Royal (8)
21 Disorganised cartel bakes fare for 20 Pour out freely (6)
an early bite (9,6)
22 Joint Hay Festival creator, with
25 Felicity Kendal's birth borough (8) Norman and Peter Florence (5)
26 Anglo-Saxon kingdom stretching 23 Sudden burst of applause (5)
from Offa's Dyke to East Anglia (6) 24 Reading has a museum
27 Lord's-based cricket club (10) dedicated to this kind of life (5)
28 King's ---, base for visiting
Sandringham (4)
Answers will be printed in the Autumn Issue out 29 August
ANSWERS TO CROSSWORD 01
ACROSS: 1 Smith 4 Thrashers 10 Tintagel 11 Newark 12 Trossachs 13 Using
15 Day-glo 17 Monmouth 19 Psalmody 21 Carrot 22 Nancy, 24 Arresting 27
Embryo 28 Identity 29 Gypsy moth 30 Orlop. DOWN: 2 Main roads 3 Totes
5 Holkham 6 Anne 7 Hawksmoor 8 Reran 9 Iguanodon 14 Snickered 16 Gold
cards 18 Two and two 20 Yorkist 23 Armoy 25 Tutor 26 Holm.
FOR YOUR JOURNEY
Books, apps, travel gadgets and crossword
BRITISH TRAVEL
JOURNAL
WE LOVE
SPRING 2019 | ISSUE 01
BritishTravelJournal.com
IN THE STARS
GASTRONOMIC DELIGHTS AND A
CONSTELLATION OF MICHELIN STARS
JUST WAITING TO BE EXPLORED
DREAM ESCAPE
DISCOVER THE REMARKABLE ISLANDS
AND BREATHTAKING LANDSCAPES
OF ORKNEY AND THE OUTER HEBRIDES
£5.00
EVENTS ■ IDYLLIC DESTINATIONS ■ MICHELIN STAR RESTAURANTS ■ LUXURY HOTELS ■ NEW EXPERIENCES
Distinguished artist Philip Hughes
records eleven iconic walks across
the length and breadth of Britain,
from Allt Coire Pheiginn in Scotland
to Zennor Head in Cornwall.
£15.99, amazon.co.uk
Easy, inspiring and energising, new
meditation app that helps you to
be more relaxed and present in life
so you can find and enjoy success
and happiness everywhere you go.
freemindhub.com
Featuring a totally waterproof zip,
drop it in the sea and it floats! Perfect
for paddle boarding adventures,
picnics, days at the beach, festivals,
travelling and camping trips!
£159.95, redoriginal.com
Download and read British Travel
Journal on your tablet or mobile
device anytime, and anywhere. Available
on apple, google play, and amazon.
Use the QR code above
britishtraveljournal/subscribe
98 BritishTravelJournal.com
Creative | Connected | People
Exclusive Travel Experiences in the UK & Ireland
www.dreamescape.co.uk
enquiries@dreamescape.co.uk | 0845 260 1085