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THE

Susanne

ong>Amazonong>

Gerber-Barata

Ingredientes & Recipes

On the

plate

The ong>Amazonong> on the plate 1


THE AMAZON

On the plate

Concept, Research, Fotos, Text & Recipes

Susanne Gerber-Barata – susangeba@gmail.com

All rights reserved, copyright com Susanne Gerber-Barata

Agradecimentos: a Darcerleni da Rocha Queiroz para muitas explicações e dicas e

Tânia Loureiro Santos pela revisão do português. Além disso agradeço a todas as

pessoas, conhecidas ou desconhecidas, comerciantes, feirantes e outros que

aparecem em fotos ou citações do livro.

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ong>Amazonong>’s jungle food on the plate

Presentation

Food, the usual one and also the strange

and exotic, is literally in everybody’s

mouth. What about a mouthful of

ong>Amazonong>’s jungle food? The wide and wild

ong>Amazonong>ian jungle hides an undiscovered

treasure. A secret culinary, not yet been

revealed to outsiders: A rich cuisine,

unexpected ingredients, unknown fruits.

This book invites to a sensual journey,

even if occurring only virtual. Crossing

one of the last borders, lets take a trip to

the ong>Amazonong> which reveals a complete

exotic and yummy culinary in the heart

of the ong>Amazonong>. A very original and

completely unique food, half indigene,

half Portuguese with a lot of local

ingredients, some directly from the

ong>Amazonong>’s jungle and many of the dishes

with quite a long and complex history.

This book emanates from a discovery, a

very particular finding. A discovery which

created wings and took flight. The theme?

The ancient and unique culinary tradition

of the ong>Amazonong>, one of the most

sophisticated and refined. There is an

endless richness of local ingredients, still

unknown, one more tempting than the

other! Once more a stranger, one more,

succumbs to the charm well

hidden and preserved by the ong>Amazonong>

jungle. Its cuisine enchants, soon, very

soon it fills the eyes of the visitor, cherish

and perfumes his nostrils and taste his

palate. The Northern kitchen’s traditions,

grown with increasing dear, deserve

thousands and one books. The local cuisine

encompasses a dizzying and contagious

infinity of colors, aromas and perfumes, so

involving and stimulating that they seem

to be sins, sharpening, tempting all our

senses.

Doing this book’s research, asking, tasting

and collecting informations, which resulted

in the author's version, a particular version

of ong>Amazonong> cuisine’s essence: ong>Amazonong> on the

plate.

In the ong>Amazonong> everything is smell, perfume,

essence. Few places cultivate and appreciate

aromas so much. Who doubts? The

interlacing of the ong>Amazonong> with spices and

perfumes is an old one. The indigenous

people, in our days they know that they must

have been many different tribes and

ethnicities, always were freshly bathed and

used very scented and aromatic chilli peppers

to season their food. Afterwards, the Jesuits

getting deep into the tropical rain-forest on

their evangelized missions came across with a

thousand and one treasure, the drugs of the

wilderness, roots, barks, shells and seeds;

valuable raw material for condiments,

preservatives, medicines, also were

employed in the perfume production. Spices

whose weight was payed in gold. As if such

was not enough, the Portuguese and others

smuggled in pockets, sachets and boxes the

most diverse seeds, pods or roots of other

rain-forests around the globe to the ong>Amazonong>,

always in sight of promised riches.

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The book dares and introduces to wellknown

spices, but also brings some

respectively "new“ ones. One of them is the

recently rehabilitated tonka bean, now used

in the form of a condiment. The tonka bean

has become the kitchen boss's darling: Use it

always with due precaution - all these

perfumes just give the last touch, in

quantities of medicine.

Another is the “casca preciosa”, the precious

bark. Whom travels into the wide ong>Amazonong>ian

countryside learns to appreciate the

aromatic tea prepared from its bark. A

newcomer in food is the “priprioca”. With its

citrus scent it is a success between the more

adventurous and attentive cooks.

But tradition also manifests. The richness of

“alfavacas” whose essential oils spice or

aggregate taste. They share their preferably

position with coriander, chicory and chili

peppers, aromatizing almost every salty

dishes in the ong>Amazonong>.

But there is much more. Quite a lot of others

delicacies are waiting. The opulent scent of

the “cupuaçu” fruit has no equal. The

delicate, sophisticated palate of a “bacuri”,

a local fruit too, charms even queens. And

the intense and deliciously sour aroma of

“araçá” which adorns the title? - All are

scents are so unique and rich - you get

addicted. They become part of

unforgettable memories, got impregnated

in the emotional olfactory memory of any

visitor. They seem to be supernatural.

They wrap the whole body. Each sip, each

spoon presents and caresses both the

nostrils and the mouth. The pleasure

explodes when they touch the sky, the sky

in the mouth.

Another unexpected and unforgettable

discovery are the very simple things: the

cassava flour, the “farinha”. More dilute or

thicker, the “tapioca” and the “tucupi” –

unique! The purple yam with its instigating

color. They all deserve to be very famous.

In addition, all the little coconuts and their

subproducts, of which only the “açaí” has

already created fame out there.

The book also come up with some ong>Amazonong>

peculiarities. The typical ingredients are

highlighted and get some additional

information. Small texts explain the

differences between sweet and brave

cassava and its thousand uses, all already

known to the indigenous ancestors. They

throw light on other raw materials that are

as special as the “avium”, the salted and

smoked “pirarucu” or the famous buffalo

cheese from the island of Marajó. It also

unveils the typical ingredients of a local

jungle coffee, a “café regional”. A rich and

comforting delicacy, perfect to start a new

day.

The curiosity of foreigners satisfies the

explanatory part. Anyway, who does not

wanted to know where all these fabulous

foods, so strangely familiar to our taste,

were born. The book has reached its main

goal when it succeeds to share the

admiration and prestigious of a unique

kitchen that deserves to be much more

famous than it used to be. Soon, very soon it

will get there! Enjoy your food! Bom apetite!

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5


About the author

Susanne Gerber-Barata is Swiss, married to a

fanatic “Paraense”, inhabitant from the state

of Pará. He introduced her to the ong>Amazonong>ian

cuisine. She always cooked at home and is

famous for her jams, biscuits and cakes. In

German, she has published a book about

Brazilian cuisine.

Being completely fascinated by the

ong>Amazonong>ian cuisine, its aromas and the wealth

of its ingredients, she resolved to join her

culinary gift, her passion, some experience in

journalism and the ong>Amazonong>ian’s richness’s

and wrote, cooked and photographed the

book “ong>Amazonong> on the plate“. She put all the

essence and all her knowledge in it. She

learned about these part of Brazil during

extended stays and today she is living in the

ong>Amazonong>, what has deepened the information

and allows her not to lose any detail of local

customs and recipes. This richness she put in

the reach of everybody, always with all the

respect and affection of a foreigner.

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Belém – Mercado Ver-o-peso

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Fish

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embalados

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Manaus, Mercado Adolfo Lisboa

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Santarém, Mercado 2000

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Preface

First of all, this book is a love affair with a kitchen with a dizzying

infinity of colors, aromas, and perfumes, so involving and

stimulating. The author was immersed with passion and gluttony in

the exhilarating ong>Amazonong> cuisine. At this place it may be

remembered, that this book was written by a stranger, a foreigner.

Her view is the one of an outsider and she set great store by dealing

with all respect and honesty with all the rich, local traditions. She

tried and still tries hard to handle the inevitable, the prevailing

prerequisite - the tropical heat. In addition to the food, she also put

a lot of herself into the book, as well as a large collection of

ingredients, plates, surroundings, places and also the local dishes.

She interprets the ong>Amazonong> cuisine in a contemporary, always

revered way, respecting his unique and millennial traditions.

In the end, she asks forgiveness and a generous look at her English

skills, the language needs to be improved slightly.

Obrigada! The author.

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ong>Amazonong>‟s flavor - the aromas and the

essence of northern cuisine

Introduction

The recipe for this book-report? A greedy

appetite that is awakened by insatiable and

unbelievable discoveries which would sharpen

any palate. In the ong>Amazonong> region exists an

indeterminable wealth of local ingredients,

still so little explored and sold outside the

ong>Amazonong>. Once instigated, the curiosity armed

itself with the amount of research and

information, many in loco.

Another strong argument is the undeniable

indigenous heritage, present in the way to

prepare the local dishes which ingredients and

elaborations jumped just with few modifications

directly from the indigenous ancestor’s kitchen

into our pans.

Add to this all the ingenious and wise

adaptations done by settlers and all others who

do not despise a good mouthful of food.

The result? A book at the same time appetizing

and didactic, which aims to report, as they used

to say in Portuguese, in prose and verse, the

thousand marvels of these lands, still little

known. ong>Amazonong>’s cuisine is wild, daring and

so original as only a few others. Hide a lot of

unexpected discoveries, well stored in the

breasts, in the heart or - who knows? - in the

belly of this dense ong>Amazonong> jungle. It stands

out with the load of baskets and even more

baskets, braided with ancestral wisdom,

overflowing, exploded in a thousand colors:

intense ranges of oranges, yellows, lilacs,

purples and wines, juicy reds and green, many

greens. The last appreciated color is often

even more splendid than the first one.

Delicacies collected at the trees and more

trees of unknown shape. They present us with

fruits, coconuts, beans and nuts. From the

soils they collect basins, handfuls and bundles

of tubers and roots of the most varied shapes

and tastes, well accompanied by exotic

vegetables. The waters of the sweat sea and

the freshwater rivers boil of fish, transformed

and conserved by sun and salt as the ancient

custom dictates.

The nose and mouth are embraced by

well-measured juices, sips and mouthfuls

Of the most unexpected perfumes and

aromas, a more unlikely and surprising than

the other. Liters, jars, bottles and containers

overflow with broths and refreshing and tasty

juices. It fits to highlight its aromas, essences

and spices, subtle at times, or arrogant and

invasive such as “cupuaçu”. Also, delicate and

sophisticated as the “bacuri” whose aroma

charms even queens. Great kitchen stand out

by its seasonings: The final touch is given by

the pinnacles of the most varied and exotic

spices, native or brought over the seas.

Anyway, in the ong>Amazonong> everything is flavor,

aroma and perfume. Who doubts? Flavors,

rich and private, unforgettable souvenirs,

impregnated in the olfactory and emotive

memory of any visitor. Aromas that involve

the body, cherish the nostrils and explode

with unexpected pleasure in the mouth. We

are in heaven, in a very tropical heaven! Enjoy

your food!

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Secret Ingredients -

fundaments of ong>Amazonong>ian cuisine

ong>Amazonong> pantrys never lacks

Accustomed to strong flavors, in an ong>Amazonong> pantry you can always find

some colorau, diferent tipes of pepper, salt and cumin in grain or ground.

The colorau must be of indigenous heritage, cumin and salt in turn must

have entered the cauldron through the settlers.

• Colorau & tumeric pleases two masters: the eye

and the palate

• Local peppers & bell peppers - uniting flavor and

pungency in one spoonful

• Indigenous heritage

Of the indigenous references in the ong>Amazonong>ian and cabocla cuisine are

many. Everything that involves manioc and its thousand derivatives and

uses origens from the natives. Native is also the piracui, the fish meal and

the use of so many little coconuts and nuts besides so many fruits, one

more delicious than the others.

• Regional breakfast - tapiocas, porridge and a lot

more

• Tucupi's unami taste

Unami, the fifth taste, besides sweet, bitter, sour and salty, recognized

only in the year 2000, described as complex and delicious was also

detected in the tucupi.

• Local oils & fats, buriti, tucumã, chestnut -

forgotten and with strong personalities

• Sal & Brine or Vine of garlic and their

benefits for the palate

• First grilled, than put in the broth

The way of preparing meat, poultry and fish has strong indigenous

connotations. It is customary to bake in the fire or in the oven any meat,

poultry or fish to later soothe it in broths and tasty sauces

• Cuia & clay pot – adding authenticity and beauty to

taste

• Exorbitance of fruits

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71 41

96

jUNGLE´S AROMAS

VEGETABLES & GREENS

AMAZON´S SPICINESS

116

160

234

RICHES FROM THE SOIL

CAFÉ REGIONAL

JUNGL´S SAVORS

207

230

WATER, SALT, SUN & WIND

EXUBERANCE

PASTURES & BACKYARDA

FOREST´S DELIGHTS

INDEX

445 257

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ância

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ong>Amazonong>’s

spIciness

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ong>Amazonong>ian backyard

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Turmeric

Origin

The “açafrão-da-terra” or “mangarataia”

in English Turmeric, curcuma longa,

comes from the south of Asia. Its

rhizomes, dried and ground, transformed

into powder, are one of the key

ingredients on curries, blend in and

harmonize with other spices. In India is

used in many curries and masalas, in

which is also responsible for the bright

color. Turmeric is from the family of the

ginger and probably have been brought

beyond the sea by the Portuguese. In the

ong>Amazonong> it is used to color the local

cassava flour, tucupi and fish dishes like

moqueca.

Aroma

Used fresh, turmeric has a pleasant

taste, slightly spicy with an earthy flavor.

Dry and ground its taste becomes more

complex and woody, slightly bitter and

sour.

Use

Its orange color colors rice, vegetables,

manioc flour and tucupi. Its leaves and

its powder flavored fish and give color

to moquecas and other dishes. Be careful

by using – turmerica can dye hands and

fabrics!

Classic

In rice, with chicken and fish, imitating

the color of true rare and expensive

saffron.

Exotic

In cakes with spices, pasta, even liquor.

Unmissable

Rice with typical ingredients of the North

as avium, jambu and others. Or joining

white fish with delicacy.

J F M A M J J A S O N D

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Rice with tumaric and spycies

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Alfavaca

Origin

All members of the big family of the

alfavacas, some types of basil, species

of genus Ocimum, which covers more

than 30 types, are native to tropical

Asia and probably have been brought

over the sees by the Portuguese. The

alvavacas are responsible for the final

touches in almost all ong>Amazonong>ian

dishes, being although part of the

“refogado”, which includes onions,

garlic, salt, pepper and colorau, doing

a starting point for fish and meet

dishes. Every kitchen garden and

even local boats cultivate them, the

boats in mini-gardens on the roof of

the vessel.

Aroma

Each tender alfavaca leaf exudes its

own aroma: Some are more spicy

ones, others bring in menthol or

aniseed notes.

Use

Matches perfectly with garlic and

you cannot miss it in a fish soup,

a “caldeirada” and in the tucupi. It is

used always fresh. More robust

varieties are included at the

beginning of cooking, more delicate

ones are put in on the end.

Classic

On stews and tucupi.

Exotic

In the salad, in a vinaigrette,

accompanying fish.

Unmissable

Gives a refreshing touch to a

caipirinha with local lemons or in all

types of pestos.

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Green smell

Origin

“Cheiro verde” – green smell - what a

significant name - bought at the fair,

in the supermarket or harvested in

the own backyard, the green smell

describes a tied with varied green

seasonings. In the ong>Amazonong> it usually

contains chives, parsley, some types

of basil and some leaves of chicory

and/or coriander. It can also be sold

enriched with colorful local peppers

arranged in a practical and

appetizing bouquet. Green smell is

indispensable in any salty dish and

seasons both fish and meats or

although the vinaigrette that

accompanies the fried fish or grilled

meat.

Aroma

The green smell and its aromas are

the soul of the dish, they made it

rounder and define, together with

salt and pepper, its flavor. Coriander

rarely predominates.

Use

Any salty dish is seasoned with the

green seasonings.

Classic

In the fish stew and in the minced

meet as much as in all types of

vinaigrettes.

Exotic

In the salad. Lettuce type salads are

still rarities on the ong>Amazonong>ian tables.

Unmissable

In the fish or shrimp stew or with

tucupi.

J F M A M J J A S O N D

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Contados

Assorted vegetable mix

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“Filhote” fish in coconut milk

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Chicory

Origin

The chicory, although called Para’s

coriander or “coentrão”, what means

something like big coriander, Eryngium

foetidum, grows wild in many places in

Brazil, but only in the ong>Amazonong> it has

become an indispensable condiment in

many salted dishes, a fact which do

not please everybody from abroad. It

is a plant with a two-year cycle, native

to Tropical America and the Antilles.

Aroma

The name “coentrão” already indicates

that the chicory smell resembles

coriander, but its aroma is more spicy

and intense or even unpleasant as it is

suggested by the Latin name.

Use

Any salty dish is spiced with some

chicory leaves. Many packets of green

smell or alfavaca include some leaves

of chicory beyond the indispensable

little chili peppers.

Classic

Chicory is indispensable in any dish

with fish, In the tucupi or in the

tacacá.

Exotic

Used in a pesto with an exotic note or

in soft doses to seasoning a colorful

vegetable salad.

Unmissable

Pickled in vinegar, it gives it a very

peculiar flavor, perfect to use in salads

or with vegetables.

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The classic fish soup “caldeirada”

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Coriander

Origin

The coriander, coriandrum sativum

is a seasoning and indispensable

condiment in the ong>Amazonong>’s kitchen,

the one with the biggest personality.

It originates from Southern Europe,

the Middle East or North of Africa

and probably have been brought by

the Portuguese beyond the seas. Its

perfume is very similar to the smell

of chicory, but less floral. Both of

them very popular in ong>Amazonong>ian

cuisine and both of them do not

agree everybody.

Aroma

Its odor is strong, unique and citrus.

That’s why many people cultivate a

certain prejudice.

Use

The coriander placates the salt,

balance the aroma of the fish and

cuts the weight of fat in the dishes.

It seasons fish and meat and cannot

be missed in stews and the local

everyday beans.

Classic

In the form of condiment, balancing

the flavors.

Exotic

Combines with garlic, shrimp and

nuts into a pesto with Northern

seasoning and salads of vegetables.

Unmissable

In the form of pesto with avium

or dried shrimps and Brazil nuts.

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Fish “escabeche” with a lot of

garlic, vinegar and fresh herbs

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Ground cumin and corinader seeds

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Cumin

Origin

The trio of dried seasonings –

“colorau”, black pepper and cumin -

indispensable in the ong>Amazonong>s

cuisine, is sold at any corner at the

street markets. Local vendors sell, in

addition to garlic heads, the spices

that give taste to almost all

ong>Amazonong>ian dishes - cumin and black

pepper in grain or freshly ground,

separately or mixed and ground

together. Cumin, Cuminum cyminum

from the Middle East, probably from

ancient Egypt, used since biblical

times, must have traveled with the

colonizers and is also widely used in

Mexican and Indian cuisine.

Aroma

Cumin tastes strong, hot and

pungent without being spicy, brings

notes of anise and lemon and a

slight bitterness and does not please

everyone.

Use

Used indiscriminately, it

predominates all other spices. It

adds interesting notes to meats and

fish.

Classic

In all dishes with meat, fish, chicken

and with the everyday beans.

Exotic

Used generously for seasoning fish

or meat

Unmissable

In the cabbage salad.

J F M A M J J A S O N D


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Assorted local vegetables

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Mix of local vegetables

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Local chili peppers

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measure unit a can

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Smelling chili

peppers

Origin

The peppers belong to the Americas.

Already the natives used them - they

did not know the salt but appreciated

spicy food. Only in the ong>Amazonong> exists at

least a minimum of 15 or more types of

very different types of small chili

peppers. With the discoveries, the

peppers have spread all over the world.

In the ong>Amazonong>, the most popular chili

pepper are the small ones, rounded

and brightly colored peppers – called

“pimenta de cheiro”, smell peppers,

capsicum annuum / frutescens, famous

for being not to hot and exhaling, when

bruised, a very spicy scent. Natives use

them in considerable quantities.

Aroma

At the same time perfumed and tasty,

but not very pungent.

Use

Fresh, squeezed with a fork, permeates

all the dish with its spicy aroma and

peppery perfume. Further, improve the

mood in tropical climates and adds a

good dose of vitamin C to the plate.

Sold at any street markets, you can find

all kind of chili peppers preserved in

“tucupi”, oil, vinegar or cachaça.

Classic

Chili peppers never can be lacking on

an ong>Amazonong>ian table.

Exotic

Gourmet chocolate with a little pinch

of chili peppers.

Unmissable

Fresh and squeezed to perfume the

local dish.

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Peppers in tucupi - spicy sauces

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Urucum

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Redy to use: colorau in oil

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White meat or fish is always cooked with colorau

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Urucu/Urucum

colorau/achiote

Origin

The urucuzeiro, bixa orellana, is a

shrub native to the forests of Tropical

America. Its seeds, hidden in soft

capsules defended with soft thorns

are used to add a yummy coloration

to pale food. The seeds release a

cheerful red dye, called achiote or

“colorau”, which gives many

ong>Amazonong>ian plates an appetizing aspect.

The indigenous population of the

ong>Amazonong> mixes the seeds with oils and

use the paste for their elaborated body

paintings, inventing by this way the

first sunblock, a property today proved.

Food industry uses urucu on a broader

scale as a dye coloring cheese,

sausages and butter.

Aroma

The seed itself have little aroma of

their own.

Use

The red dye that surrounds the seeds

is mixed with corn meal; Is taken

from the pestle or in the oil with the

objective to give pale meet or fish a

more appetizing look.

Classic

In savory dishes and crowning pale

chicken, fish and rice.

Exotic

Its bright red combines very well with

sugar, candy.

Unmissable

In fish soups turning its natural grayish

color in an appetizing orange.

J F M A M J J A S O N D


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VEgetables

& greens

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Cariru/Caruru

Surinam spinach

Origin

The Surinam spinach, Talinum

triangulare, or locally called cariru or

caruru, - the same name as the dish

cooked in our days with okra - is a

genuinely ong>Amazonong>ian vegetable and

belongs to the family of the

Portulaceas. As the Latin name already

express, this vegetable has a fleshy

stem, elliptic leaves and tiny lilac

flowers and is not very complicated to

produce.

Aroma

The taste is similar to spinach with a

slight bitter aftertaste.

Use

Is used mostly damped, even when the

green of the cooked leaves is less

intense than the green of spinach. The

cariru is an excellent source of minerals

and vitamins and traditionally it is

cooked alone or together with other

vegetables the everyday beans.

Classic

Damped, with a braised egg on top,

becomes the so-called

”reconvalescent’s food”. It is possible

to replace in the local dish “caruru”

okra by cariru. It fits very well with fish,

and is ideal for vegetarian plates and

although used in raw in salads.

Exotic

Raw or boiled in salads

Unmissable

Sauteed and well seasoned with a

beautiful egg on top.

J F M A M J J A S O N D


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“Peixada”, a fish soup with “tamoatá”

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Local blackeyed

beans

Origin

The two types of beans, varieties of the

same family caupi, Vigna unguiculata,

are famous. The tiny butter-bean from

Santarém, lower ong>Amazonong>, called “feijão

de manteiginha” and the other one from

Bragança, called caupi have creamy and

smoothie grains. The first is about three

times tinier than the second, both

shows the typical dark eye. They do not

produce much broth, but are perfect for

a traditional bean dish, besides being

rich in iron and zinc. Caupi is a plant of

African origin improved by Brazilian

Embrapa, a government institution,

which developed erect cultivars, making

harvesting easier. The small one, called

butter-bean is almost exclusively grown

on small farms. He can be found almost

only on street markets.

Aroma

Light and sweet, the grains combines

perfectly with fish, especially with

pirarucu.

Use

Green or dry used to disintegrate easily

and do not like the pressure cooker.

Classic

Tasty day-to-day beans with the typical

pinch of cumin or the local “baiao de

dois”, rice mixed with beans.

Exotic

Still green is used in a more tenuous

point in preparation of salads.

Unmissable

In a simple green bean salad with plenty

of garlic and cilantro or in the ”baiao de The ong>Amazonong> on the plate

dois”.

77


Jambu

Origin

Bunches of jambu, acmella oleracea, a

creeping plant, iconic in the ong>Amazonong>

region, appears in several variations

on the local street markets. Its yummy

taste does not vary much and the

famous yellow flowers which tremble

or numb lips and tongue, all of them

have in common. Responsible for this

stunning effect is the substance

espilantol. Widely used in ong>Amazonong>ian’s

cuisine, the jambu should originate

from the ong>Amazonong>. It is cultivated in

backyards and sold on street markets.

Aroma

The leaves have their own quite

particular taste, remembering spinach,

although much more peppery. The

flowers have a green and slightly

greasy taste and are responsible for

the unexpected, surprising and

enjoyable sensation of numbness of

the tongue.

Use

It is inseparable companion in the

tacacá and in many dishes with tucupi.

Classic

Besides the tacacá and in the duck

with tucupi it is used in rice with

jambu, made with or without tucupi.

Exotic

The “treme-treme” liquor develops all

the anesthetic power of flowers which

are also pointed out as aphrodisiac for

women.

Unmissable

On the tacacá with sour tucupi.

J F M A M J J A S O N D

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Rice with jambu and salted

shrimps

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“Jamburana”, the liquor made of the jambu‟s flowers

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The ong>Amazonong> on the plate 83


Local

vegetables

Origin

Of unknown origin, the spinach

called monkey ear “espinafre orelha

de macaco”, Alternanthera sessilis,

the white pumpkin, Lagenaria

siceraria, the purple okra,

Abelmoschus esculentus, the endless

beans, or snake beans, Vigna

unguiculate, originate from Afrika,

and the meter-okra, “quiabo de

metro”, Trichosanthes cucumerina

are vegetables that grows in

ong>Amazonong>ian backyards and can only

be found at the local street markets.

Of surprisingly tastes, the spinach is

crispy, crunchy and firm, the half a

meter long okra tender and sweet

and without any drool, at the

contrary to the purple okra. The

white pumpkin tastes quite neutral

perfect to receive a lot of spices. The

long beans resemble pods. All these

vegetables enrich the dishes with

their unexpected flavors and colors.

Aroma

All delicious and tasty.

Use

Raw or cooked in salads, soups and

perfect to complete other dishes.

Unmissable

With onion and garlic sauteed

meter okra, white pumpkin, peeled

and cooked in salted water or in

form of pickles and monkey ear

spinach in the salad, a crispy

surprise.

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The ong>Amazonong> on the plate

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The ong>Amazonong> on the plate 86


Local peppers

Origin

Even similar to chili peppers, the local

bell peppers, capsicum annuum, are

little pungent. They belong to the giant

family of bell or sweet peppers. There

original habitat was Mexico and

Central America, from where they

conquered the world. Indispensable of

the South American cuisine, they are

used still green or in its ripe colors:

an alive red and a greenish yellow.

Aroma

Its aroma resembles larger sweet

peppers, more than three times

bigger. Used without the seeds, its

taste is very smooth and not pungent.

Use

Most of the local plates starts with

sauteed peppers, chopped very tiny.

They are a basic ingredient of the

“refogado”, starting point for many

local dishes, containing onions, garlic,

peppers, salt, “colorau” and lot of

herbs -although indispensable in any

stew or vinaigrette. There is always

some pepper in dishes with tucupi and

fish.

Classic

In many northern dishes, especially

in the “caldeirada”, the local fish

soup.

Exotic

Cut very tiny and sauteed a few

moments they combine perfect with

tasty salads.

Unmissable

Sauteed with local tomatoes or

backed in the oven with a splash of

olive oil and salt they make a perfect

and colorful appetizer.

J F M A M J J A S O N D

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A sauté with palm

oil and shrimps to

turn açorda,

vatapá or bobó

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Sauté & Vinaigrette

It gives flavor and succulence to many hot meat or fish dishes - the indispensable basic stir

fry ou sauté. Contains onions, peppers and tomatoes and it comes ready from the market.

Some vendors include lemon to wash fish or meat. The cooks add, along with the oil

already the colorau, others tumerica to color it up, or use palm oil for the same purpose.

Then add all the other ingredients, all finely chopped, the tomato has to wait a little more.

No one also despises a good packet of green herbs and the ever present coriander or

cumin, fresh or powdered.

The vinaigrette, chopped very small, in turn accompanies both the grilled fish as the meat.

It gathers the same tasty ingredients, equally seasoned with plenty of extra coriander,

salt, pepper, vinegar and olive oil.

The ong>Amazonong> on the plate 89


“Caldeirada”, a fish soup

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Roselle/rosella

Origin

The rosella bushes, Hibiscus

sabdariffa, part of the huge

hibiscus family, probably originates

from Africa. It must have been

brought to the Tropics by the

slaves. Rosellas leaves and flowers

are used in dishes in many places

in the world. Its English name

Rosella refers to the color

extracted from its flowers. In

Brazilian North the people use the

leaves in traditional dishes in the

state of Maranhão called “arroz de

cuxá”.

Aroma

The high content of vitamin C is

responsible for the sour taste of

both, leaves and flowers.

Use

The leaves sour smell combines

very well with fish and shrimp

dishes and add a nice touch to rice

or vegetables. The flower can be

dried and used in well-colored

infusions or syrups or can be

candied in sugar.

Classic

In the famous dish of Maranhão

“arroz de cuxá”.

Exotic

In the salad or to give an

interesting accent to vegetables.

Unmissable

Added to a “caldeirada”, a local fish

soup just at the very end of the

cooking process.

J F M A M J J A S O N D

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“Arroz de

cuxá”

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Roselle flowers are perfect

for hot or cold teas

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Tradicional medicine, perfumes and magic herbs

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Jungles’s

aromas

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To drink, to cure, to spice or for magic purposes

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“Garaffadas” – Herbs used for medicinal, magical or spicy purposes

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High potential drinks to strengthen potency

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Cinnamon

Origin

The cinnamon, Cinnamomum

Zeylanicum, from the family of the

Lauraceaes, is native to Sri Lanka, but

still is growing in many old-fashioned

backyards together with other large

shade-spreading trees, the ground

always covered with sand. Its leaves

and bark provide home made

remedies for pain, headaches or

tummy aches. In addition, the

cinnamon tree was considered a

symbol of happiness: Scented leaves

of cinnamon covered the ground on

special days like weddings or

baptism. The bark, dried and ground,

flavors together with cloves very

local deserts. To do the cinnamon

sticks it is used the internal bark of

the trunk, descending it every two

years, rolling it on fine sticks and

drying them at the sun.

Aroma

Hot and aromatic, it is sweet and

resembles wood.

Use

Used to seasoning meats and

chutneys, but above all, in traditional

sweets together with cloves.

Classic

To seasoning local porridge and fried

bananas

Exotic

It adds an interesting touch to meat

sauces or as an infusion.

Unmissable

A cinnamon leaf infusion perfuming

the whole house.

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Casca preciosa

Origin

Called “casca preciosa” , the prescious

bark, the tree with the same name,

Aniba canelilla, is a Brazilian native

and belongs to the lauraceas family, a

species of trees with many members,

some of them with scented leaves

and woods. The reddish brown wood

and bark is very aromatic, besides

having medicinal powers. Its bark is

sold together with herbs and other

medicinal plants at the local street

markets.

Aroma

From a warm, sweet and intense

perfume with nice notes of cinnamon

as this Latin name implies.

Use

At the ong>Amazonong>ian countryside the

bark, the wood and the leaves are

used, the people prefer them fresh,

to prepare fragrant infusions, taken

any time of the day. In popular

medicine the bark is used grounded

among other purposes to stimulate

digestion.

Classic

As aromatic infusion.

Exotic

Perfuming syrups or sugars used in

ice cream and sweets.

Unmissable

As an ingredient of a good liqueur or

syrup perfuming traditional

“rabanada”, a sweet Christmas

French Toast.

J F M A M J J A S O N D

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Tonka bean

Origin

The tonka bean, Dipteryx odorata, is

from the pea family, a tree

which provides one of the

best hardwoods, sturdy and

perfumed. Its seeds, very aromatic

too, are used in the ong>Amazonong> as some

of the ingredients for ritual odor

baths or homemade perfumes.

Recently (re-)discovered for culinary

use, this smooth and hard seed of

dark purple color is employed in the

dessert department, replacing the

vanilla. Tonka bean is native of the

ong>Amazonong>, but it occurs also in some

other countries of Central Latin

America. The bean contains a

substance which may be toxic if it is

ingested in large quantities or during

an extended time. The oil has

medicinal powers.

Aroma

Each bean emanates a very woody

and oriental perfume, very similar to

the smell of bitter almonds and

although remembers vanilla.

Use

Desserts, liqueurs and dishes with

exotic flavor

Classic

Incorporated into creams or grated

scents desserts.

Exotic

Matters very well with certain Indian

dishes like chutneys or jellies.

Unmissable

A sip of an ong>Amazonong>ian liquor made

with tonka beans.

J F M A M J J A S O N D


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Embiriba /

Imbiriba

Origin

The small seeds of the embiriba or

imbiriba, Xylopia Amazônica, can be

found along with many other

"especarias“, spices on every street

market together with other medicinal

plants. Just have a look in the places

which smells of mystery, fool of

crammed bottles, sachets or packets, all

fool with a thousand and one of the

forest’s wealth, of animal or vegetable

origin. Sold along with the herbs,

woods, soaps and baths, in the section

of traditional remedies, is the

“embiriba”, a remedy against stomach

pain and disorders, improving digestion.

The same does not fail employing its

subtle aroma used in food. As toxicity

studies are lacking, as is the case with

many of these traditional remedies,

moderation in their use in the kitchen is

recommended.

Aroma

The embiriba tastes like cinnamon with

a final pleasant and light touch of

pungency.

Use

Used in syrups, puddings, cakes,

grounded or piled up or put in a bag of

tissue, removed after cooking, gives

desserts or food in general a sweet and

hot taste. An infusion with alcohol

release an orange red color.

Unmissable

In ong>Amazonong>ian liqueurs and in cakes.

J F M A M J J A S O N D

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Brigadeiros, all chocolate

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Guaraná

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Guaraná

Origin

The guaraná, paullinia cupana, a shrub or

woody vine, it grows up to 10 m high, is

native of the ong>Amazonong>. The local indigenes

peoples discovered its stimulant

properties: The guarana powder contains

three times more caffeine than coffee.

Guarana is obtained from the guarana

seeds which grow in lush curls. The open

orange sheath exposes a black seed,

remembering a human eye. The magic

seed enjoys the fame of prolong life and

maintain sexual vigor, besides oppressing

hunger. At the ong>Amazonong>ia countryside it is

still sold in the form of rod and tradition

says that it should be grated with the

pirarucu tongue.

Aroma

The powder is almost odorless with

appearance of grated wood. The taste of

the guarana syrup is bittersweet and

fruitful.

Use

Rod, powder or syrup - 70% of the

guarana production is located in the city

of Maués, where it is traditionally

processed in soft drinks. The best ones

are the local ones.

Classic

Rubbed guaraná, pure, with water or

mixed with sugar to mask the wood like

taste. Guarana syrup in combination with

peanuts or chestnuts and fruits of the

season is affectionately nickname of “to

awake a dead to live“ or other illustrative

names.

Exotic

In natura.

Unmissable

The local guarana soda called "Baré".

The ong>Amazonong> on the plate

J F M A M J J A S O N D


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Priprioca

Origin

One of the new stars among spices of

the ong>Amazonong> is the priprioca, Cyperus

articulatus, a type of tall grass with

small flowers at the tips. Native of the

ong>Amazonong>, the priprioca traditionally

makes part of the local perfumes and

odor baths. It is also used in

homemade perfumes and impregnate

its odor to clothes and cloths,

protecting against insects. Recently

the plant started to be used in

cooking.

Aroma

Cut priprioca tubercles release a light

fragrance, woody, spicy and with

flowery notes. Priprioca provides an

essential oil of reddish color, used in

the pharmaceutical and cosmetic

industry.

Use

This aroma of forest, wild and green,

Has been incorporate recently into

the culinary. Usually you can find the

alcoholic extract, alone or in

combination with other flavorings or

the use of fresh grated potatoes.

Classic

Perfuming a caipirinha.

Exotic

Used in sauces and puddings.

Unmissable

In bitter or lightly bitter liquor

J F M A M J J A S O N D


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Small eatable souvenirs

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Happy ending - a table

with liqueurs

The ancient custom of offering digestives and liqueurs to the

guests is again a trend. Varied liqueurs, placed on a small

coffee table are perfect to closing festive dinners, weddings

and baptisms or seal other social events. What to serve

depends a lot on taste and affinity of the hosts. The exotic and

rich aromas of fruits, herbs, seeds and bark bring the perfect

raw material for each one to compose his own distillate.

Carefully prepared, macerated in infusions, release their

perfumes and just need to be finalized after the right time of

maturation. The liquors added a touch of sweetness – perfect

to be tasted together with family, friends and dear ones. In the

older times served in special liquor sets reserved for this goal;

Today, there are no rules how you should serve them.

Digestivs

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The ong>Amazonong> on the plate 110


“Festa do Divino”

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The ong>Amazonong> on the plate

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iches

from the

soil

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Diferent types of yam

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Purple yam

Origin

The origin of the purple yam,

Dioscorea alata or trifida, is still

doubtful. The first one did come

from Southeast Asia, the second one

is native to the ong>Amazonong>. On the local

countryside this tubercle with grate

variety of shape and color is still very

much appreciated. Its drool and

exotic color scare some and enchant

others. Some of the purple yams

exhibit a purple peel and white

flesh, others show a dark purple

color insight. A color, by the way,

which reveals its antioxidant

properties so much in fashion these

days. For whom that is not argument

enough – purple yams are even

more nutritious than potatoes and

offer, beyond the color, a lot of

other health benefits.

Aroma

The slightly granular pulp resembles

much more potato than the sweet

potatoes of the same purple color.

Use

Easily to digest, the purple yam is

used at the countryside as a

Breakfast in the afternoon eaten

with coffee, in soups and fried.

Classic

Together with black coffee at

breakfast.

Exotic

Devoured, instead of bread, at a

yummy local “caboclo” breakfast.

Unmissable

Cooked and put into a salad.

J F M A M J J A S O N D


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Sweet potatoes

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Sweet potatoes

Origin

The origin of the sweet potato,

Ipomoea potatoes, seems uncertain,

despite many evidences indicate that

they come from the South of Mexico

and the Northeast of South America.

Scattered throughout the tropics and

subtropics, sweet potatoes are not a

tuber, but a root, one of the oldest

one used by mankind. Its cultivation

demands very little and it is one of

the roots that saved most people

from hunger. There are over 1000

different sweet potato species: They

have white, creamy, yellowish, pink,

reddish, purple or white skins and

combine this with very different

colored pulps. The plant crawls on the

soil and its tubers vary greatly in

shape, taste and size. Some tend to

be somewhat mealy.

Aroma

Light and pleasantly sweet.

Use

The sweet potato combines high

energy value with savory and can be

used in salty or sweet dishes.

Classic

Puree, salty or sweet

Exotic

Roasted on the grill

Unmissable

The orange roasted directly in the

fire.

J F M A M J J A S O N D


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Ariá and

cará-do-ar

Two delicious vegetables are

hidden in the ong>Amazonong> backyards.

The small potato ariá, Calathea

allouia, rounded and with thin

skin, native to the ong>Amazonong>, is

much appreciated by the natives

and is being rediscovered for

those who like to eat the local

delicacies or worries about the

unbridled use of agrochemicals.

In this way it already appears in

free fairs for example in Manaus.

It reminds you of a crisp potato

and is rich in starch. It grows

beneath the earth and the large

leaf is decorative in intense

green.

The cará-do-ar, Dioscorea

bulbifera, a vine with heartshaped

leaves, produces aerial

tubers whose shape resembles

gizzards. Native to Africa and

tropical Asia is fleshy with light

brown bark a little thicker and

slightly yellowish flesh. The two

tubers are cooked before

consumption and they substitute

with praise the potato in many

recipes.

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Selling cassava roots

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Macaxeira -

sweet cassava

Origin

“Macaxeira” is the name given to

the cassava in northern Brazil. The

“macaxeira”, Manihot utilissima, is

the “gentle” or “kind” one of the two

cassavas. The other one is the “brave”

or highly toxic cassava, Manihot

esculenta. They are both thick and

very branched roots from a tall bush,

originating from the Peruvian Andes.

Easy in adaptation to any soil and

little demanding, there exist countless

varieties in the same family, some

very toxic. “Sweet” or “gentle”

cassava is usually used cooked or

fried, it is although perfect for cakes

and other sweet purposes. The most

tasty varieties are called “butter

cassavas”. The cassava flour and the

tucupi are usually made from “brave”

manioc. But there are some

“farinhas” made of “macaxeira”.

Aroma

Pretty neutral resembles potatoes or

other tubers.

Use

Combines with both salted plates as

well with cakes and sweets

Classic

Fried, cooked or baked.

Exotic

Cooked and served cold in salads.

Unmissable

The variety called butter cassava and

the traditional “puba” cake, sold on

the street, tasty and little sweet.

J F M A M J J A S O N D


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Cassava cake

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Mandioca brava

poisonous

cassava

Origin

The brave or bitter manioc, Maihot

esculenta, is the tuber of a shrub

originating from the Peruvian Andes.

The plant requires few cares and is

not very demanding in soils in which

develops its tuber during one year

before can be harvested and

processed. Unprocessed it is mortally

toxic. The indigenous legend tells:

Cassava was born on the grave of a

child, half white half India, fruit of a

crime. Bitter tears, spilled on its

rhizome, have become its poisonous

roots. A complex process developed

by the local Indians turn it edible,

allowing the destruction of its acid

hydrocyanic. The cassava is watered

for three days in running water than

grated and heated and processed in

“tucupi”, “farinha”, “goma” and

“tapioca”.

Aroma

It is bitter and improper for

consumption since it is mortally

toxic.

Use

The brave cassava provides “tucupi”,

“farinha d´água”, all kinds of cassava

flowers, tapioca in flakes and sago.

Classic

“Farinha d’ água”

Exotic

“Tucupi” and “maniçoba”.

Unmissable

In form of “tapioca” or “beiju”

J F M A M J J A S O N D


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Leaves of manioc become maniva

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Maniva –

cassava leaves

Origin

The word “maniva”, derived from the

local indigenous language Tupi, is used

for both, the cassava branch and the

leaves. To get the “maniva”, the leaves

of both types of cassava, the sweet and

the poisonous one are used. “Maniva”

is the key ingredient to make

“maniçoba”, a local dish that joins

indigenous tastes with ingredients

brought by the colonizer. It was

indigenous expertise that discovered

that the poison of the leaves could be

eliminated, cooking washed and

ground cassava leaves for several days

in a row (!) in huge clay pots under the

intense heat of the wood stoves until it

turns dark green, almost black.

Traditionally the leaves are cooking for

a few days before the meats are

incorporated gradually.

Aroma

Of inexpressive taste, the leaves

assimilate the flavors of the meat, the

same used in a rich “feijoada”.

Use

“Maniçoba”, typical of the ong>Amazonong>, is

an indispensable dish for festive dates.

Today the “maniva” is sold already

three or four days precooked.

Classic

A rich “maniçoba” is accompanied by

white rice, “farinha d’ água” and spicy

little peppers.

Exotic and a must-eat

The muddy color of the maniva.

J F M A M J J A S O N D

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Maniçoba, a stew made

of cassava leaves

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In the small house the “farinha” is produced

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Tipitis

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The grated mass of the fresh cassava goes to the tipiti

and is squeezed, releasing the tucupi. The tucupi rests

and the gum sits on the bottom of the container.

Remove the gum and the tucupi is boiled.

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Variations of

tucupi

Being a completely handmade

product, the taste of the tucupi

offered in the market varies a lot. It

depends on the region, the manioc,

always brave, used and the time of

disenchantment gives tucupis with a

more floral palate, until sweet,

others distilled for a longer time

more acid, taste much more spicy,

complex or deliciously vinagry.

Tucupi has unami

One finds in the tucupi the "fifth" and

newest taste of the palate, the unami. The

japanese word translates as tasty, delicious.

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Tucupi

Origin

The “tucupi”, a greenish yellow

liquid, is taken from the poisonous

cassava. The technique, developed

by the Indians, is applied until today

the same way. The cassava is

watered during three days, later it

is peeled, grated and then squeezed

into the “tipiti” or another sieve to

releasing its juice, the “tucupi”.

The “tipití”, an ingenious hollow

tube made from palm leaves and

twisted with the help of a branch.

The obtained “tucupi” rests for

some time while the “gum” sits on

the bottom of the container. From

this gum is gained the “tapioca”.

The liquid goes through a long boil

to destroy its poison.

Aroma

Deliciously floral or acidic, with

flavors of soil and forest. The broth

got seasoned with salt herbs and

chilly peppers. In some regions also

is used sweet “tucupi”.

Use

For stews, the classic duck at tucupi,

piglets or other parts of the pork, in

fish stews with fish, shrimp or in the

local dish “tacacá”.

Classic

“Tacacá” or with duck and fish,

stewed in the liquid.

Exotic

In the vinaigrette or in the form of

sorbet.

Unmissable

A nice “tacacá” with the inseparable

company of gum and dry shrimps.

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136


The ong>Amazonong> on the plate

Tacacá

137


Pubação

Part, about 1/3 of the cassava goes

to the “pubação”. Peeled off is left in

the water for a few days and then

mixed with the fresh manioc, already

grated and squeezed.

The ong>Amazonong> on the plate 138


Grating a second time

The mass, already expressed in the tipiti,

passes, along with the manioc pubada, a

second time by the crusher. Again squeezed

it is ready to go to the oven, turning flour.

The tucupi that leaves this second squeezed,

is discarded or used to kill pests.

The ong>Amazonong> on the plate 139


Pubação

Toasting: Sieved, the dough goes to the plate where it is toasted

The ong>Amazonong> on the plate 140


“Farina” production

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The ong>Amazonong> on the plate

142


Traditional containers for “farinha d´água”

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Selling “farinha”

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144


Al kinds of cassava flour

They are affectionately called "Biscoito", "Especial", "Carimã",

"Pure" or "Surui." Some are famous like the ones from Uarani or

Bragança - who thinks that flour, cassava flour of the type “farinha d’

água”, is a simple thing, has deceived himself.

Not only there are more than 4,000 varieties of cassava in Brazil. Both

types of cassava, the sweet one and de brave one produce some type

of “farinha”, normally distinguished by color. The flour of the sweet

cassava flour is white, the one obtained from brave cassava it is

yellowish. Who consumes them, not a “liter”, but one, even two sacks

per week (!), always fresh, has each one his favorite. The rustic one with

the big lumps called “baguda” is usually the most expensive,

endangering the tooth fillings. Depending on the usage, there is also a

fine one, the “farofa", suitable for the preparation of any type of food

with the same name. Who consumes a lot of “farinha”, appreciates it

not only accompanying the daily bowl of açaí, but also combines it with

sweet dishes. The same persons although know the exact "day of the

“farina“ of their street market. On this day, the shipment of new fresh

“farinha” arrives. Even from the leftovers of the flour production, the so

called “crueira”, somebody takes advantage, piling it into a fine powder,

which yields in a great porridge.

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145


The ong>Amazonong> on the plate 146


Farinha d´água

Origin

Flour, light, tasty and crunchy it is the

daily bread of the less favored, they eat

it mixed into the morning coffee and it

accompanies all other meals. The name

“water flour”, “farinha d’água”, refers

to the process. The brave cassava is

softened and fermented for several

days in fluent water. Then it is grated

squeezed, constantly stirred and dried

on iron plates heated with huge ovens.

There are numerous types of flour:

Yellow ones, white ones, very fine or

coarse-grained ones, the latter the

most appreciated. One of the most

famous flour is the one from Uarini.

Before you buy the flour, you may taste

it. Do it the native way. They take a

handful with their fingers and throw it

just into the mouth. Each of the local

street markets has a special day on

which new, very fresh flour arrives.

Aroma

Dry but crunchy and delicious, lightly

sour. The fresher the flour, the better.

Use

Versatile, it fits as soup, in the “pirão” a

type of local porridge, in “farofas” or

accompanies any salty dish or “açaí”.

Also, is toasted together with Brazil

nuts.

Classic

In “farofas” or with fish.

Exotic

“Chibé”, the refreshing soup, very

simple: water, spices and “farinha”. It

can be eaten hot or cold.

Unmissable

The “pirarucu na casaca” or the

“mujica”, a traditional soup, flavored The ong>Amazonong> on the plate

with avium or piracuí.

147


Crush a small chili pepper

with a fork, on the

bottom of the plate or the

“cuia”, the local bowls,

add a few drops of lemon

juice, a pinch of salt and

abit of olive oil. Then add

the flour and the rest of

the food.

On an

ong>Amazonong>

table

On an ong>Amazonong>ian table

never may missing, always

you can find some type of

flour,”farinha”, that special

flour. It combines with

almost everything, thickens

the “açaí”, accompanies the

fish or soaks even the

coffee or goes with a

dessert. Also the little chili

peppers never will missing,

indispensable, red, yellow,

oranges or even purple.

More or less pungent,

stinging or smelling, they

are perfume and spice,

fresh or preserved in oil,

tucupi, vinegar or cachaça

they flavor any local food.

Accustomed with very well

salted food, ong>Amazonong>'s

habitants also do not

despise a few slices of

lemon, especially in fish

dishes.

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148


Mujica, a fish soup with cassava “farinha”

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149


Pirão made from cassava flour

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Grilled fish on a bed of flour

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151


“Farofa” with bananas and fish

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152


All tipes of “Beijucica”

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Delights from other

times

Pé-de-moleque, beijus moles , and fried bolinhos

de puba - the grated cassava dough, whether or

not pubescent, as much as gum or tapioca in

flakes, is pure, mixed with fresh grated coconut or

chestnuts countless types of cakes flattened and

dumplings, some baked on banana leaf others fried

in oil, one tastier than the other.

The ong>Amazonong> on the plate 154


Nothing gets lost - which does not pass through the sieve, dries in the sun and turns, pilado, crueira

The ong>Amazonong> on the plate 155


Tarubá

Origin

The milky drink made from cassava, called “tarubá”, is one

more inheritance left by the indigenous peoples, nowadays

almost exclusively sold at the street markets of the

countryside. Packed in plastic sachets, yellow or white,

depending on which type of cassava it derives, mixed with

green leaves of “curumi” or “curcumin-cará”, Ravenala

Guaianensis, it is normally sold nearby the “tucupi”. Getting

“tarubá” is laborious. The procedure consumes several days.

First it need to be extracted the “tucupi” from the mashed

cassava, traditionally squeezed in the “tipiti”. From the

remaining paste are formed giant “beijus”, some flat

pancakes, roasted on large iron plates. Ready, the “beiju” is

put on a bed of leaves, where it is moistened with water and

sprinkled with “curumi” leaves and covered with more palm

straw. Thus protected, the paste relax for a certain sequence

of days. The time determines whether an alcoholic

fermentation start or not. The finished drink, diluted with

water, is used at normal days. “Tarubá” capable of getting

drunk is reserved for the days of celebration, those never are

missing in the “colonia”. Of pleasant aroma, milky and softly

sweet the drink must be rich in

nutrients.

Other similar drinks are called

“mocoroó”, “pajuaru”, “tiquira”

or “caxiri”. The “maniquera” is

made from the broth of boiled

cassava, mixed with purple yam.

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156


Different types of “cuias”, calabashs

Calabash fruit

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157


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159


CAFÉ

regional

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161


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164


Specially strong and

comforting – local

breakfasts

Orange “pupunhas”, purple yams or buttery cassavas,

everything very well coked, just falling apart? Some

of the most various “mingaus”, local porridges, a

couscous, light and airy, color of egg yolks, or a

simple tapioca, simple with a fine layer of butter or

stuffed with fried egg? Everything quite comforting,

enriched with generous spoonfuls of juicy coconut

milk or, even better, covered with little streams of

pure condensed milk - so indispensable as the

powder milk into the morning coffee. Breakfast on

the street called “café regional” is rarely eaten at

home or from porcelain dishes. Here it is served in

cheap glasses, disposable plastic wares, in local

bowls and over banana leaves. Countless gifted

women sell it in front of their houses or even on the

street from their treats. Wheeled carriages replace

the trays of yesterday. Every street market has also

fix booths, very well frequented. Here the variety is

even bigger and yummier.

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The ong>Amazonong> on the plate

166


Goma

Origin

Both types of cassava, the sweet and

the brave one provide a fine white

starch, a powder, called “goma”, “

fécula“, or „polvilho“. Cassava is grated

and mixed with a little water, the so got

“manipueira” is squeezed. The thick

dough turns flour and the broth, the

“tucupi”, decanted in a container in

whose bottom the “goma”

accumulates. Perfectly dry, it can be

stored for a long time. It is one more

benefit that can be obtained from the

manioc. An additional use of the

cassava, developed by the indigenous

inhabitants. Portuguese chroniclers

report that they were able to prepare

seven different types of flour. The wet

gum, or re-humidified (photo left) turns

into wet or dry “beijus” and delicious

tapiocas with varied toppings.

Aroma

Its delicate and neutral taste reminds

simple flour or starch made from maize

or potato.

Use

Very versatile, combines with both

salted and sweet dishes and any type of

fillings. The native developed the

technique to make “tapioca”, thinly

pancakes baked on a iron plate. The

gum although is used to make porridge

or as a translucent liquid which can not

be lacking in the “tacacá”.

Classic

In the form of tapioca.

Exotic

In the gelatinous-looking ingredient,

part of the “tacacá”.

Unmissable

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Wet tapioca with Brazil nuts

167


Tapioca - receita básica 15 porções

500 g de goma de mandioca

Água suficiente para cobrir

a goma (250-300 ml)

1 colher (chá) de sal

T

Manteiga a gosto

Leite de coco para molhar

Flocos de coco para polvilhar

Açúcar a gosto

Cubra a goma na véspera por completo com água. Deixe-a

decantar. No outro dia a goma se „sentou“ no fundo.

Descarte, com muito cuidado, toda a água e seque a

superfície da goma com um pano ou uma fina camada de

farinha a qual absorve toda a umidade. Quebre a massa

em pedaços e passe por uma peneira, se quiser, peneire

diretamente numa frigideira aquecida. Acrescente sal a

gosto e espalhe o pó rapidamente formando uma fina

camada que nem uma panqueca. Asse dos dois lados por

mais ou menos um minuto. Passe um pouco de manteiga e

enrole ainda quente. Tradicionalmente serve-se a tapioca

sob folhas de bananeira ou embrulhada em fatias da

mesma folha. Para molhar a tapioca, adocique o leite de

coco, esquente-o e derrame com cuidado sobre a tapioca.

Sirva dobrado ao meio ou enrolada e polvilhada com os

flocos de coco. Também mistura-se castanhas

previamente torradas à massa.

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Diferent types of tapiocas

The ong>Amazonong> on the plate

169


Small breads made of goma

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The ong>Amazonong> on the plate

171


Granulated

Tapioca

Origin

Granulated tapioca is another

derivative from the so versatile

cassava. The process coagulates the

wet gum in granulates and then bursts

the flakes on a hot plate, rolling them

constantly. In this way the particles of

the starch form flakes or irregular and

light balls of various sizes from tiny to

large. Afterwards it is dried for

completely in an oven. The result is a

very delicate and light flake with a

translucent and crisp aspect.

Aroma

Its taste is relatively neutral. Gently

crunchy, explodes in the mouth,

remembering rice flakes.

Use

Very versatile, it is added to “açaí” and

is the main ingredient in the delicious

tapioca couscous, in porridge, pudding

and tapioca ice cream the last ones

always, In the last cases always

moistened with milk or coconut milk.

Classic

Traditionally accompanies, the bowl of

acai with or without sugar.

Exotic

So old-fashioned as delicious: tapioca

porridge or tapioca cuscuz.

Unmissable

Tapioca porridge with a generous

portion of condensed milk, tapioca ice

cream or the typical local ice cream

called “paraense”: “açaí” with tapioca

mixed together.

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172


Local breakfast

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173


The ong>Amazonong> on the plate 174


The ong>Amazonong> on the plate

175


Jungles’s

Savors

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Traditional utensils

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Açaí

Origin

The açaizeiro, Euterpe precatori, acaí of

the state ong>Amazonong>as or Euterpe oleracea,

variety of Pará, belongs to the ong>Amazonong>

region. As the saying goes: Who comes

to Pará, makes a break and drinks “açaí”,

keep staying. The slender palm that

reaches 30 meters, provides a small

coconut, wrapped in a thin, hard and

purplish, almost black shell, who grows

in clusters. Softened in water, extracted

manually or with special machines, it

delivers the “açaí”. The purple red liquid

is sold in several thicknesses of the very

viscous to quite watery, the latter is sold

cheaper. Very rich inanthocyanin, but

very perishable the best “açaí” is the

freshest one. Taken in the morning, at

noon it already tends to sour. A

complicate business, also subject to crop

oscillations. Only in the city Belém “açaí”

is sold the whole year long. The yummy

white “açaí”, a greenis colored variety is

even more difficult to be get.

Aroma

Complex, with a taste of forest and

earth with a metallic touch.

Use

Very nutritious and energetic, “açaí”

popularly is taken at the morning and

at noon as a lunch.

Classic

With fried fish, “farinha” or tapioca, in

the porridge and as ice cream.

Exotic

With fried fish or beans and “farinha” -

A good “caboclo”, native, meal.

Unmissable

Try to get white “açaí”, available only

between July and January. The ong>Amazonong> on the plate

J F M A M J J A S O N D

184


Açaí with fish - a

classic combination

The ong>Amazonong> on the plate

185


The ong>Amazonong> on the plate

186


Bacaba

Origin

The bacabeira, Oenocarpus bacaba,

which reaches a height of 12 meters, is

native to the ong>Amazonong>. The brown

liquid, obtained from the thin bark of

the dark coconut and processed with

water, is taken in the same way as the

“açaí”, sweetened or not and mixed

with tapioca in flakes or with “farinha”.

The “bacaba” is greasier and sweeter

than the “açaí” and the little coconut is

browner and bigger. The caboclo calls

the bacaba "strong" because of its high

fat content. In the specialized houses

they hit special flags announcing the

delights of the day: White flag -

bacaba, red flag - açaí.

Aroma

Complex, resembles earth, forests and

nuts.

Use

It is of seasonal and irregular offer - the

plant is not domesticated. It usually

fruits after the “açaí”. The bacaba

“wine” is appreciated in the same way

of the açaí, mixed with “farinha” or

tapioca, with or without sugar.

Classic

Pure, with fish, or sweet, also in the

form of ice cream.

Exotic

Accompanying fried fish - the perfect

“caboclo”, native meal.

Unmissable

Pure, at most with a little sugar and

flakes of tapioca.

J F M A M J J A S O N D


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The ong>Amazonong> on the plate

Buriti tree and fruit

188


The ong>Amazonong> on the plate

Coasters

189


Buriti

Origin

The buriti or miriti, Mauritia flexuosa,

one of the most majestic palm trees

of the ong>Amazonong> and its origin is the

North of South America. Its leaves

resembles a huge fan and this palm

tree prefers wetlands and floodplains

to grow strong. It likes to have

literally one foot in the water. The

brownish-orange and oval fruits

sprout in large bunches and are

covered with bright scales, hiding a

sweet and greasy pulp of a strong

orange.

Aroma

From a fruity, sweet aroma, but very

substantial and oily, which

remembers plums or oranges.

Use

The pulp is processed in jus with high

concentration of vitamin C, creams,

ice creams and a sweet paste, that

can be cut. Processed in some type of

flour, the pulp is enjoyed with milk.

Classic

A sweet paste, which preserves the

color orange and a salty porridge. At

the countryside its pulp is used to

boiling fish.

Exotic

Using the bloody red oil to fry. The

meat of a wild pig, the “porco do

Mato”, becomes all orange, when it

delights itself of the fruit. The

caboclos, the natives, use buriti pulp

also to boil fish.

Unmissable

Sweet paste, delicately and lightly

sour.

J F M A M J J A S O N D The ong>Amazonong> on the plate


190


Buriti porridge

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191


Cacoa fruit, juice and powder

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Cacoa, juice &

cacao nibs

Origin

Recent research lead to believe that

the cacao tree, Theobroma Cacao, is

Brazilian, originating from the

headwaters of the ong>Amazonong> from where

it spread throughout Central and South

America. Also, recently native cacao is

systematically harvested of at the

ong>Amazonong>ian river’s borders. Cocoa of

excellent quality is grown at the Trans-

ong>Amazonong>ian highway. Chocolate with

terroir has become a major trend on

the high competitive cacao market.

Cacao is a sub-forest plant that grows

underneath a plant cover of bigger

trees, the ong>Amazonong> cacao start to reach

the market industrialized and also with

by-products such as white cocoa juice,

made of its pulp and nibs, fermented

almonds of high quality.

Aroma

The milk white cocoa juice has a very

nice aroma, remembering “bacuri” or

“graviola”. The nibs have the complex

taste of pure cocoa.

Use

Cocoa and chocolate are classic. The

juice is perfect to make jam, compote

and liqueurs and the nibs enrich, whole

or crushed, cakes, shakes and creams.

Classic

Juice and cocoa nibs in natura.

Unmissable

Juice and cocoa nibs in natura.

J F M A M J J A S O N D


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Cacauí

Origin

The cacauízeiro, Theobroma

Speciosum, the smaller and wilder

relative of the cacao, and also from

the cupuaçu, is native to the

ong>Amazonong>. It grows on a tree with a

narrow trunk and a small canopy

that can reach 15 m in height and

can only be found in the jungle. Also

called monkey or alligator cocoa, it is

rarely cultivated. Its fruits are sold

on the edge of the street or at street

markets on the country side. The

bark of the fruit is soft but woody

and forms a more or less 12 cm

capsule, hiding the seeds, well

organized and wrapped in a thin

layer of juicy pulp of delicate floral

taste. Between September and

October the trunk rediscovers itself

with clusters of small red purple

flowers which e exude a strong odor

of lemon and are also edible.

Aroma

The pulp has a delicate, fresh and

slightly citric aroma.

Use

The pulp is eaten in natura. The seed

provides a type of chocolate.

Classic

Devoured in natura or in the form of

juice.

Exotic

Use of edible flowers.

J F M A M J J A S O N D


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Mari gordo /

Umari

Origin

The fruit “mari” or “umari”,

originates of the ong>Amazonong>. There are

two types of umari: The umari

Poraqueiba paraenses is orange and

grows in on a tree up to 40 m high.

The umari Poraqueiba sericea is

more cultivated in the state of

ong>Amazonong>as, grows in a tree up to 12

m height and is color is a deep

purple ranging up to a bright black.

The oval fruits with a smooth shell

have a size of 4-10 cm. The 2-5 mm

thick fat pulp involves a woody core.

Aroma

It has a pleasant taste, a strong and

characteristic aroma with a slightly

earthy savor which resembles

butter.

Use

In natura or with cassava flour or

smashed as a paste which is put on

the bread at the place of butter.

Classic

Gnawed away from the core or

mixed with “farinha”.

Unmissable

Consumed in nature.

J F M A M J J A S O N D


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Piquiá

Origin

The piquiá, Caryocar villosum, is a

majestic tree of the ong>Amazonong>, almost

extinct for its valuable wood. Is well

different from the “pequi”, Caryocar

Brasiliense, a small tree native of the

“cerrado”, one of Brazil’s biomes. The

two fruits with it interesting bitter taste

are enjoyed boiled in rice, although the

fruit of “pequi”, much smaller, is

regarded as more palatable. The thick

brown bark of an earth-grayish color

involves several yellow seeds. Its thin

yolk yellow layer is greasy, has an oily

and deliciously bitter taste. The pulp

must be gnawed away from the core

with the teeth or shaved with a spoon.

Unlike the core of pequi of the

“cerrado”, the ong>Amazonong>ian variation

offers no danger and has no thorns.

Only who wants to enjoy the almond

in-between the lump, also edible,

should be careful, - it is well protected

by dangerous thorns. Considered

capricious, many “piquiázeiros” do not

provide fruit every year.

Aroma

The pulp is oily, smell and taste unusual

and has a mild bitter savor.

Use

Pulp and oil, removed from the pulp

are appreciated for frying fish.

Classic

Cooked with rice.

Unmissable

Cooked and gnawed away from the

core.

J F M A M J J A S O N D


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196


Pupunha on the tree

The ong>Amazonong> on the plate

197


Pupunha

The ong>Amazonong> on the plate 198


Pupunha sold at a street market

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199


Peach-palm

Origin

The peach-palm fruit, bactris

gasipaes, em portugues called

pupunha, belongs to the “várzea”

forests and flooded areas of the

American continent. It is believed that

the Peach-palm played an important

role in the feeding of pre-Cabralian

inhabitants. The peach palm tree get

a height of 20 m and does not give

away its fruits easily. It defends them

with violent thorny rings. Today exist

varieties without thorns too. On the

street markets there are all type of

pupunhas, very small ones and

enourmes, with quite different forms

and a wide game of colors: green,

yellow, orange up to a bright red. The

pupunheira also provides an excellent

palm heart.

Aroma

Cooked in salted water, remember a

firm sweet potato, but it is more

greasy and mealy.

Use

Rich in vitamin E and very nutritious,

it takes part of the local morning

coffee or afternoon tea. It is ideal for

purees, pastries and cakes. The core

contains an edible nut.

Classic

With coffee, replacing the bread.

Exotic

In purees and cakes.

Unmissable

Simple, boiled in salty water. If you by

them, ideally mix together from

several bunches to enjoy the tastes

quite different between one and

another.

J F M A M J J A S O N D


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Tucumã-do-

ong>Amazonong>as

Origin

There exists in the ong>Amazonong>, from

where tucumã is native, varieties

well distinct of Tucumãs. The

tucumã-do-ong>Amazonong>, Astocaryum

tucumae, grows on a low palm tree

and its coconut is round and has a

thin yellowish-green shell. The thin

layer of edible pulp underneath the

shell is very oily and has few fibers.

It is very popular in Manaus and sold

at any corner and any time of year,

often already peeled into fine

stripes. Its taste is quite woody and

not sweet at all. The tucumãs are an

excellent source of vitamin A.

Aroma

The thin pulp of the round coconut

has a taste which resembles oily

wood with an taste of earth and

jungle.

Use

Very nutritious, the locals eat

tucumã together with everything.

They eat it raw, just like a snack, put

it in sandwiches, burgers and tasty

tapiocas.

Classic

Just in natural.

Exotic

In-between the famous local

sandwich “X-tudo”, or “X-caboclo”, a

sandwich which embraces all

ingredients available, what always

includes tucumã.

Unmissable

Local amazon coffee: Tapioca with

egg, cheese, banana and tucumã. The ong>Amazonong> on the plate

J F M A M J J A S O N D

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Sanwich X-tucumã

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202


Sweet tucumã

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203


Tucumã-do-

Pará

Origin

In the ong>Amazonong>, from where Tucumã is

native, exist quite distinct varieties of

tucumã. The tucumã-do-Pará,

Astocaryum vulgre, from the várzea and

soils under water, is a low palm tree

who grows up to 20 m. The color of the

tucumã-do-Pará is from an intense

orange. The leafy bunch with the ripe

coconuts can be seen from far away

and stands out from the dark trunk

covered with long and pointed thorns.

Nowadays, ware developed varieties

without this defense. The fruit of this

tucumã is more fibrous and much

sweeter than the tucumã appreciated

in the ong>Amazonong> state.

Aroma

Peoples eat the pulp under the thin

shell of an intense orange and a

pleasant natural but oily sweetness.

Use

Contains three times more vitamin A

than carrots and is rich in fats. The pulp

is used for juice, porridges, liqueurs and

ice creams.

Classic

In natura, in form of refreshments or in

desserts and ice creams.

Exotic

Tucum juice, a refreshment quite

substantial.

J F M A M J J A S O N D


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Uxi

Origin

The uxi, Sendopleura uchi, an

genuinely ong>Amazonong>ian fruit, is

nicknamed to the poor man’s fruit,

since it does nothing to call any

Attention or to be discovered. But

under the thin marbled, earthcolored

bark it hides a tiny layer

of scented pulp. Gnawing its pulp

down from the oval stone with the

teeth, it is appreciated by children

and those, whose soul preserved

some childish side. The others

enjoy it in refreshments and ice

creams. It is only sold in street

markets on the country side or by

vendors on the street. Fruit of

quite a large tree in the forest, it

can reach a height of 40 meters, it

is fairly oily and even provides an

oil which resembles in consistency

and taste olive oil.

Aroma

The oily pulp is slightly sandy and

tastes like a nutty banana and also

remembers forest, bark and earth.

Use

In natural, refreshments, sweets,

pastries, liqueurs and ice creams.

Classic

Gnaw straight from the core.

Exotic

The oil, produced by hand.

Unmissable

In natura

J F M A M J J A S O N D


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205


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Water, Salt

sun & wind

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Salted fish

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208


Saltes shrimps

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209


Salted and

dried shrimps

Origin

To salt, dry or smoke fish or shrimp,

Caridina sp, are ancestral preserving

methods, much appreciated in the

ong>Amazonong>. They do not only conserve

the crustacean, but also add new

flavors. Already the natives must

have dried local fish and prawns of

the rivers and of the sea. A form of

storing food and got the necessary

provisions for fights and wars or to

face the great floods. With the arrival

of the salt, brought by the

Portuguese colonizers, the old

technique was improved.

Aroma

Dried, salted or smoked prawns

preserve a strong and complex taste

of seafood and sea salt.

Use

Covered for a few hours with water

to get rid of the excess of salt before

use, washed with lemon to take away

the “pitiú”, the fish smell, this type o

prawns take part in many ong>Amazonong>

dishes, many of them consumed in

the mobile stalls bordering streets.

The custom dictates that these foods,

a type of ong>Amazonong>ian fast food has to

be served in the late afternoon and

early evening.

Classic

In the tacacá, vatapá and caruru.

Exotic

In the tacacá, baited with a toothpick

and eaten whole including the shell.

Unmissable

A good “tacacá” taken in the street The in ong>Amazonong> on the plate

the traditional black “cuia”.

210


Caruru

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211


Avium

Origin

The avium or aviú, ace Americanus,

is a very tiny micro-shrimp of

approximately 8mm. Its eyes are as

small as a point on the i. It is a

freshwater crustacean from the

region of Cametá or Santarém,

brought by the rivers first floods, the

ong>Amazonong> in Cametá and the Tapajós

in Santarém.

During one year it appears only a

few months, later on it disappears.

Through this time it can be

appreciated deliciously fresh. During

the remaining time it is usually sold

cooked and salted.

Aroma

Its delicate aroma is very similar to

the aroma of others fresh or salted

shrimps just a bit more delicate.

Use

The avium is used in dumplings,

omelets, “Mojica” and other fish

soups, farofas and pies, replacing

with distinction, fresh or salted

shrimps.

Classic

In “Mojica” and in the avium balls.

Exotic

In the “vatapá” or “açorda”, a

delicious purée made of old bread.

Unmissable

In a “Mojica”, the simple thick soup

made of “farinha” and fish or srimps,

flavored with thousands of very tiny

shrimps.

J F M A M J J A S O N D


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Mujica, a soup with avium and farinha

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213


Selling crabs

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Moqueca with shrimps

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215


Acari-bodó

Origin

The family, loricariidae, fishes

popularly known as “cascudos”,

which refers to its armor, perfect for

a knight, covers in South America

more than 200 species. As the name

says, its body is covered by several

rows of richly ornamented bone

plates. The “cascudos” live at the

bottom of rivers and freshwater

lakes. They are vegetarians and feed

on organic waste. Champions of

survival, they buries oneself into the

mud in periods of low waters or

drought and can survive by this way

for some time. Also they can stay

alive for some hours out of water.

The “acari” fish divide the spirits,

probably by its antediluvian

appearance or because they feed on

mud.

Aroma

Its well-protected pink flesh, once

achieved, it is delicious and without

any bones and just a little earthy

touch.

Use

Grilled over charcoal straight in the

harness, fried and stew. Its strong

meat also combines very well with

tucupi.

Classic

Grilled with chili peppers and

“farinha”.

Exotic

The whole fish seems exotic.

Unmissable

Cooked with vinaigrette in the

pressure cooker.

J F M A M J J A S O N D


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“Acarí-bodó” fish in “tucupi”

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217


Piracuí

Origin

Piracuí is a fish meal, produced by a

millennial method, developed by

the local indigenous population. To

keep the so perishable fish available in

form of a nutritious powder, ensures

survival through long periods of high

waters and with a shortage of fish. It is

a very practical and wise way to

preserve a precious food. To prepare

“piracuí” are used several types of

different fishes among them

“tambaqui”, “tucunaré”, “acari-bodó”

or “tamuatá”, the two last fishes from

the “cascudo” family. First the fishes

were baked, then shredded and dried.

Processed in this way, they can be

preserved for months. The indigenous

inhabitants used to feed mainly

cassava flour and piracuí during their

hunting excursions. If you like to buy a

tasty one, you have to taste it before.

Aroma

The aroma of the piracuí is quite

strong, remembering salted fish. The

piracuí with “acari” is more fibrous

and of intense flavor. The one made of

“tamuatá” is softer in taste and can be

consumed pure.

Use

Hydrated, the “piracuí” replaces

salted shrimp or fish in soups,

vatapá, pies and fish balls.

Classic

In the “mojica”, the fish soup.

Exotic

Pure or with farinha.

Unmissable

A good “mojica” with piracuí. The ong>Amazonong> on the plate

218


Traditional

fishballs

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219


Fish„s flour, aviu and salted pirarucu

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220


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221


Salted pirarucu

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222


Arapaima

Origin

The pirarucu, Arapaima gigas, is the

Largest existing fish with scales of the

freshwaters, also known as Brazilian

cod. He lives exclusively in the ong>Amazonong>

basin in shallow waters where it is

feeding on other fish, crabs and turtles.

It is a giant fish, it easily reaches 3

meters in length and a weight of 200

kg. Its elongated, cylindrical body has a

small head and is covered by giant

scales. Obliged to breathe every 10 to

15 minutes, it emerges on the surface,

where the fisherman's harpoon is

waiting. To be transported over long

distances and to be sold, it is cut in

huge sheets and is often salted. In

danger of extinction, there is already

farmed arapaima on the market.

Aroma

Its fresh flesh, cut into huge files,

almost boneless, is delicious. It has the

typical taste of freshwater fish, sweet

and is very appreciated to be brined or

salted.

Use

King of the fishes, is used for an endless

range of delicious dishes.

Classic

In the stew, with tucupi, fried, roasted

or shredded. Richer parts with more fat

are appreciated very much, especially

roasted on the fire.

Exotic

Pirarucu “na casaca - on the coat” with

bananas pacovã and cassava flour.

Unmissable

Grilled, just simple with some “colorau”

and salt.

J F M A M J J A S O N D


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“Salted pirarucu de casca”

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224


Local earthenware

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225


Local earthenware with moqueca

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Cooking utensils for fish

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227


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229


PASTures

& backyards

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231


Redy to be sold

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233


Free range

chicken

They are called "black giant" or simply

"common hickory" and have been

domesticated long times ago – on earth

exist approximately 300 breeds of

chicken, gallus gallus domesticus. Many

ong>Amazonong>ian backyards with beaten and

sandy soil are populated by this type of

chicken, free and happy, sharing in

friendly conviviality the same space

with ducks and even some vultures,

exhibiting the beauty of their bright

plumages of the most varied colors and

designs. Rustic birds, raised for

subsistence by both the eggs and their

tasty meat, they feed all day,

constantly rolling the ground,

scratching, and the roosters crow early

in the mornings. Those who have

tasted their meat, which is quite hard

and it hardly has some flesh on the

breast, but juicy and full of flavors, can

not resist, even if the price is much

higher than that of an industrialized

chicken.

Aroma

The hickory egg stands out for its

intense yellow yolk. Of meat rich in

complex flavors, but much harder than

the meat of normal chicken.

Use

In all dishes with egg or chicken.

Classic

Stuffed country chicken.

Exotic

Indian fashions with local curries and

fruits.

Unmissable

A fresh egg fried in butter with a pinch The ong>Amazonong> on the plate

of salt.

234


Chicken transport

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235


Chicken transport

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236


Chicken, sold slaughtered on the spot

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237


Free range

duck

Origin

The ong>Amazonong>ian duck, cairina

moschata, a black duck, was

domesticated by the South American

Indians because they enjoyed its

meat with the taste of hunting and

light brown coloring. During the

domestication it has lost its original

black color and today the ducks

exhibit plumage of diverse colors,

often mixed with white. The

characteristic red warts underneath

the duckbill indeed did remain. High

point of any northern festive date,

they are especially appreciated into

the “tucupi”. On the country side still

are these very happy ducks, bred

freely in many backyards.

Aroma

Both flesh and bones have a light

brown color and their taste reminds

of hunting, being much more intense

than chicken’s flesh. Created free

range, the ducks flesh takes a long

time to soften.

Use

Stewed, fried or shredded in the rice

or as a pastry and pies filling.

Classic

On feast day – duck in “tucupi” or

”arroz de pato”- duck rice are a good

choice.

Exotic

Roasted, covered by a delicious layer

of “cupuaçu” or “araçá” pulp, local

acid fruits, you get al local version of

the duck à l’orange.

Unmissable

Stewed in “tucupi”.

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238


Duck in tucupi

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239


Belém - Ver-o-peso‟s meat market

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240


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242


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243


Butcher, Santarém

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244


Marajó island - buffalos

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245


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246


Local cheeses

Origin

There are three traditional cheeses,

made from raw milk that compete for

ong>Amazonong>ian’s prevalence, all cheeses

with short maturation: Marajó buffalo

cheese, “queijo de búfala”, soft and

creamy, the rennet cheese, “queijo

coalho”, a little sour and the rich and

fatty butter cheese, “queijo de

manteiga”. The butter cheese is made

from raw milk without the addition of

rennet and is a buttery cheese, with a

yellowish mass and a rather rough shell.

Typical of Northeastern Brazil, rennet

cheese became famous when sold in

barbecued skewers. In its preparation

rennet or other coagulant enzymes are

added to the milk. It takes time to melt

and you get a nice crust when roasting.

Marajó cheese is produced in a very

simple way from skimmed-buffalo milk

and spontaneous fermentation, noting

that the legislation allows up to 40% of

bovine milk in the declared cheese of

buffalo milk.

Aroma

The buffalo cheese has the mild taste of

buffalo milk. The butter cheese has

aroma and buttery color and creamy

texture. The rennet cheese is a little

saltier with a slight touch of acidity and a

very firm dough.

Use

They are very neutral cheeses and

combine with salty and sweet dishes.

Classic

Buffalo meat backed with some melted

buffalo cheese.

Exotic

Cheese baked with honey and banana

Unmissable

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Pure with a crisp “beiju sica”

247


Marajó‟s buffalo

Origin

The buffalo, a bovine of the genus bubalus,

is quite docile, patient and very welladapted

on the Marajo Island where you

can find it at many places, even untied or

ridden, a local type of transport. It was

introduced by the end of the last century.

Native from India and Italy, the buffaloes

are now part of the region, turning the

Marajó the place with the largest herd in

Brazil. They belong to four different breeds.

Some sources describe that it was a

shipwreck that left the first animals on the

island, others lead simple commercial

reasons. Very well adapted to the marshes

of the region, the buffalo is kept because of

its milk, which provides the famous Marajó

cheese, and its delicious flesh.

Aroma

Buffalo’s milk is sweeter than caw’s milk.

The chees is creamy and light. Much

appreciated is also the yogurt. The taste of

its meat is similar to beef, gaining in

softness. The fat content is smaller.

Use

Milk, yogurt or cheese. The meat has the

same use of the beef.

Classic

A roasted steak with a lot of onions or a filet

with buffalo’s cheese au gratin.

Exotic

A generous buffalo steak grilled with a slice

of cheese and some molasses.

Unmissable

A juicy gourmet hamburger or local hot dog

done with chopped meat and a generous

pinch of cumin and a lot of fresh coriander.

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248


“Filet marajoara”, buffalo‟s steak

baked with Marajó‟s cheese

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249


Street food

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250


Street food

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Local bees

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253


Indigenous bee‟s

wild honey

Origin

They are indispensable to pollinate the

ong>Amazonong>ian forests. They call them “jatai,

uruçú, jupará, canudo, jurupura”, “white

girl” or “mosquito”, all bees of the genus

melípona sp. They are “sweet” bees,

popularly called indigenous bees, wild

and sting-less, which add up to about

130 species. Each one produces its own

honey with a very distinct color and taste

and inhabits a nest with an ingenious

structure, typical of the species. Much

less productive than imported bees, its

wild honey stands out for its high acidity

and a varied and surprising range of

diverse and complex tastes. Their honey

is also more liquid than honey from

stinging bees. Collected during flowering

in the summer between July and

December is highly sought on the market

and gets high prices.

Aroma

More sour and some with a slight

alcoholic trait, obtained by natural

fermentation, are complex and

particularly interesting honeys.

Use

Very used as medicine, but also for

consumption in nature.

Classic

Consumed in nature

Exotic

Used to sweeten in place of sugar

Unmissable

Enjoy and be amazed at the varieties of

native honeys.

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254


The ong>Amazonong> on the plate 255


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256


ong>Amazonong>ians’s

exuberance

The ong>Amazonong> on the plate 257


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258


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259


k7

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260


Abricó do Pará

Origin

The apricot of Pará, Mammea

American, a fruit from the same family

as the “bacuri”, is native to the

ong>Amazonong>, the Antilles and to Mexico.

The fruit’s size varies widely. The same

tree can give fruits of the size of a

lemon or giant as the fist of a boxer or

even bigger. The rugose shell hides the

generous layer of apricot colored flesh.

It’s name may come from the French

word “abricot”, which describe the

yellowish orange color. It can be found

at street markets and in traditional

backyards, especially in Pará state.

Aroma

The apricot pulp is sweet and its

pleasant taste vaguely remembers the

one of an apricot, even if its pulp is

much firmer and of more consistency.

Use

Consumed in natura, without or with

sugar, processed for soft drinks,

creams, jams, jellies or ice creams.

Classic

Devoured in natura or in combination

with other delights in a very tropical

fruit salad.

Exotic

Added to a green salad - a beautiful

contrast, or eaten with Marajó buffalo

cheese.

Unmissable

Very mature, harvested directly from

the tree and devoured in natura.

J F M A M J J A S O N D


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Pinapple

Origin

The pineapple, Ananas comosus, part of

the bromeliad’s family, is a native

Brazilian and grows very well in hot and

dry tropical climates. The thorny plant

with the height of more or less one

meter, produces one fruit at a time,

crowned with the characteristic leaves.

Both, the crown and the pups that are

born on its foot, been cut and replanted

will give birth to a new plant. The cradle

of the pineapple must have been the

region of Rio Negro and Rio Orinoco in

the ong>Amazonong>. It seems that the natives

already planted it in their gardens, well

before of the arrival of the colonizers.

Aroma

The pineapple hides well whether its

flesh is more sour or sweeter. In the

ong>Amazonong> traditionally they prefer the

sweeter ones. It adds to any fruit salad a

refreshing and exotic touch.

Use

Refreshments, desserts and dishes with

exotic flavor.

Classic

Just in natural, as juice or ice cream.

Exotic

Mixed with a green salad or

accompanying a roast duck or other

grilled meat, giving a refreshing and

tropical touch to the flesh. “Aluá”, a

fermented drink made of the

pineapple's skin and ginger.

Unmissable

The Brazilian soft drink which combines

pineapple, lime and mint leaves or

crowning a savarin cake with liquor and

a tropical fruit salad.

J F M A M J J A S O N D The ong>Amazonong> on the plate


262


“Aluá”, a fermented drink and made

of pinapple‟s skin and ginger

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263


Abiu

Origin

The abiu, Pouteria caimito, make part

of the family of the Sapotaceae. Been

a completely wild species without any

domestication, the tree of medium to

high size, brings fruits of shape and

aroma that varies a lot. The form can

be oval or round always showing the

characteristic nozzle point. The

smooth and shiny fruit’s peel is

yellowish-green. If It is consumed

before it has reached its complete

maturity, its skin releases a milk, a

white viscous latex, which works as a

natural glue, adhering and glue the

lips. A few drops of vegetable oils can

solve the problem. Each fruit contains

three or four seeds from which can be

extracted a medicinal oil.

Aroma

The white and gelatinous pulp of abiu

is sweet with a sour aftertaste, but

varies a lot from fruit to fruit.

Use

One eats the abiu normally in natural

or in the form of jelly.

Classic

In natura or in the form of jelly.

Exotic

In the form of refreshment or remedy:

the pulp cooked with water and salt is

used to heal chronic diseases of the

lung.

Unmissable

A very sweet fruit devoured at the

perfect point of maturation.

J F M A M J J A S O N D


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Araçá boi

Origin

Contradicting the name, the araçá

boi or araça of California, Eugenics

Stipitata, grows on a shrub native of

western ong>Amazonong>ia. The fruit has the

size of a large orange with velvety

and fine skin and a deliciously sour

and very fragrant pulp. It belongs to

the large family of Myrtaceaes, the

same of guava and other types of

“araças”. (Photos left, middle and

below). A very ong>Amazonong>ian fruit, can

be harvested until three times a

year. Grows in typically backyards,

rarely can be found at street

markets, because it is so delicate

and perishable. Beyond, it loses its

perfume when heated.

Aroma

The perfume that mature fruits

exhale reminds of far lemon,

however it is more complex and

more fruitful. The aroma and the

delicious acidity are well-preserved

in refreshments, mousses and ice

creams.

Use

Refreshments, mousses and ice

creams.

Classic

Juice or ice cream that preserve the

delicate acidity.

Exotic

In raw sauces for meats, fish and

grilled meats.

Unmissable

In refreshment, sorbet or ice cream.

J F M A M J J A S O N D

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Pacovã banana

Origin

There are numerous varieties of

bananas. The genre of the musas, to

which the bananas belong, must have

had its origin in Asia, but there are

records of the first visitors to the

North of Brazil, which describe one

specially type of native banana, so

long that they even get scared by its

size. It must have been the pacovã or

long banana. This type of banana

must only be eaten cooked, backed

or fried, different to other bananas.

They are used still completely green

or when its bark darkened and

becomes almost black, indicating that

its astringent taste has disappeared.

Aroma

A more complex, more acidic and of a

more fruitful taste than other

bananas.

Use

Scraped still green, it gives a great

porridge, very ripe, with an almost

black skin, can be processed in

banana chips. Roasted or grilled or in

purees it tastes delicious.

Classic

Green banana porridge and salted

banana chips.

Exotic

Smashed banana, accompanying salty

dishes or fish.

Unmissable

Green banana porridge.

J F M A M J J A S O N D


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Banana chip

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267


Bacuri-Pari

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268


Bacuri tree

Bacuri

flower

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269


Bacuri fruit

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270


Bacuri

Origem

The bacuri, platonia insignis, is an

emblematic ong>Amazonong>ian fruit,

originating from the Eastern ong>Amazonong>.

It is known for its delicacy and its

particular elegant and refined taste.

The oval fruit with very thick bark of

citrus-yellow color grows in a high and

very erect tree, with wanted wood,

specially used in the shipping industry.

The layer of pulp that covers the

seeds, is very soft and thin. To

produce a small amount of pulp, it is

need to be scraped countless bacuris.

Among the seeds is developed a pulp

tongue, the appreciated “filho of

bacuri". Skin and seeds contain a

powerful resin. The bacurizeiro

regrowth spontaneously by the root.

Aroma

The soft white flesh is very delicate,

slightly acidic and aromatic and

elegant.

Use

The bark of freshly harvested fruit

contains a resin. The fruit should rest

a few days before being consumed.

From the pulp are prepared delicious

soft drinks, jams and mousses,

bonbons and ice creams.

Classic

Mousse and bonbons.

Exotic

Just pure to enjoy the whole

complexity of the flavors or a liquor

made of the pulp.

Unmissable

Mousse or ice cream with the perfect

balance between acidity and

sweetness.

The ong>Amazonong> on the plate

J F M A M J J A S O N D

271


Compote of bacuri

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272


Biribá

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273


Biribá

Origin

The biribá, rollinia deliciosa ou

Mucosa, is a very distinct fruit of the

large custard-apple family of the

Anonáceas which include the

atemoya or the “graviola” and

“pindíba”. It is supposed that it comes

from the border region between

Brazil and Peru. More delicate than

custard-apples and covered with soft

horns, it can be found in many

orchards and is sold at street markets

or by street vendors. Reaching the

yellow-greenish color, its a sign that

it's ready for consumption. It is a very

perishable fruit and, cut in half,

exposes its soft, delicious and

mucilage pulp, involving the seeds of

a dark brown coloring.

Aroma

Delicate and fresh taste reminds by

far melon with a light touch of vanilla.

Use

Its creamy pulp is usually eaten in

natura.

Classic

Devoured in natura because of the

many seeds.

Exotic

Accompanying as a raw sauce a

delicate fish.

Unmissable

Eaten fresh at the exact point of

maturation.

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Cajá-Manga

Origin

The cajazeira, Spondias dulcis, is

original of Polynesia, but spread all

over North and Northeast of Brazil.

The tall and majestic tree although

exists in the dwarv version. In the

ong>Amazonong> is known as the fruit

“Taberebá do sertão” or “cajarana”. Its

long and oval fruit is very perishable.

Its soft and juicy pulp is rich in vitamin

C and iron and involves an endocarp

coated with soft and irregular spines

that resembles a ball of wool. The fruit

with the thin, smooth skin contains

many fibers and some fruits release a

resin. It is sold at street markets and

can be found in backyard.

Aroma

A strong yellow indicates that the

succulent and refreshing pulp with its

bittersweet and aromatic taste is

ready for consumption.

Use

Raw used in soft drinks, cooked is

perfect for jams, sweets and ice

creams.

Classic

Refreshments and sweets.

Exotic

In the form of a vinaigrette,

accompanying salad or fish.

Unmissable

Refreshment, also ideal for

combination with other fruits and

sweets, preserving a light acidity.

J F M A M J J A S O N D


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Cashew fruit

Origin

The cashew tree, a tree that reaches

ten meters of height, is native to the

coast of Brazilian’s North and

Northeast. The cashew tree,

Anacardium occidentale, gifts already

with two fruits: the cashew nut, which

has the power to germinate and the

cashew fruit, a pseudo-fruit. This

pseudo-fruit with its soft flesh and its

skin colored in vivid red, orange or

yellow, secure at the end the nut. A

very sensitive fruit with many varieties,

the wild cashews can be gigantic,

medium or so tiny like the so called

“cashew do mato”. The nut needs,

before it can be appreciated, to

undergo a complex process. It contains

a dangerous liquid that burns the skin.

Aroma

The pulp is very juicy, the juice is

aromatic, but astringent. Basically

there is a distinction between sweet

and sour cashew fruits. To make

sweets, they prefer the “sour” fruits.

Use

Jams, candied cashews, ice cream, soft

drinks and liquor. The juice, very rich in

vitamin C, loses its astringes being

processed.

Classic

Refreshment, cashew and candied

cashew.

Exotic

Used in salted dishes without or with

meet and fish.

Unmissable

Cashew caipirinha and crystallized

cashew which concentrates all the

flavor of the fruit.

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Crystallized cashew fruits

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Carambola

Origem

The starfruit or carambola, averrhoa

carambola, comes from Asia and was

brought overseas by the navigators - a

fertile exchange of tropical fruits. The

small tree caring for hot climates and

adapted very well to Brazil. The fruit

with its varnished skin and crunchy

flesh displays, cut into slices, the

shape of a star what it predestined to

decorative purposes and has given its

name. Its taste in between sweet and

sour combines with both, salty dishes

and desserts. It has plenty of pulp and

the color of the fruits varies between

green, yellow or orange. The

carambola contains oxalic acid. That is

why moderate use of the fruit is

recommended. People with kidney

problems should avoid it.

Aroma

In natura the flavor of the carambola

tends to be acid, but there are

varieties with very sweet and

succulent fruits.

Use

Juice, sweet or to decorate green

salads or fruit salads.

Classic

The pulp is used to make juice, sweets

and ice creams.

Exotic

In the caipirinha, in a sauce for salads

or fish.

Unmissable

A sweet compote flavored with spices

or caramelized carambola.

J F M A M J J A S O N D

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Grilled fish with carambolas

and local chilli peppers

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Lady cutting cupuaçu

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Cupuaçu

Origin

The Cupuaçu tree, Theobroma

Grandiflorum, close relative of the

Cacao, is of ong>Amazonong>ian origins. It grows,

a small tree which reaches 10 meters, in

the shadow of other trees as. Its fruit

has very much prestige and is very

beloved in the ong>Amazonong>ian region. Its

captivates with its intense perfume.

Even completely intact, the cupuaçu

fruit’s smell catches or repels from long

distances, especially those who are not

accustomed to such exotic and fruity

scents. The white pulp is hidden in a

cylindrical or rounded fruit of 20 cm by

13 cm, of light brown velvety bark. The

delicious sweet-sour flesh recovers

about 50 seeds and sticks so firm, that it

has to be cut away with scissors. Mature

fruits are harvested fallen on the ground.

When it is scratched, its bark must show

still a greenish line, this ensures its

freshness and the quality of the pulp.

Aroma

Highly aromatic and deliciously acid with

an intense fruity scent which is not being

lost by processing.

Use

Soft drinks, sweets, ice cream and

candies.

Classic

Refreshment, mousse and ice cream

Exotic

In condiments or sauces or lacquering a

duck.

Unmissable

Duck glacé with cupuaçu or the milky

liqueur of cupuaçu.

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Local citrus fruits

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In Brazil, oranges are

not eaten but sucked.

A juicy pleasure!

The oranges are peeled before they are sucked out. The knife cuts

off a thin layer of orange skin, cutting always away from the body.

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Citrus fruits

Origin

It is estimated that there are more or

less 100 different citrus species in the

world. Wild citrus fruits are originating

from India and the South Himalayas

from where they found its way to the

Mediterranean. From there they

spread over the world. Navigators and

settlers brought the citrus fruits to

Brazil. In few old-fashioned backyards

of the ong>Amazonong> are some old trees of

old types of oranges like the “laranja

da terra”, citrus aurantium. There

have big fruits with rough skin and

orange flesh and are known for its

medicinal properties. Next to him

blooms another lemon tree, citrus

Aurantiflia, with fruits of the same size

but with a perfumed peel and quite

yellow. And finally there is a smaller

lemon of orange color with a pulp of

refreshing acidity, called “limão cravo”

ou “limão vinagre”, Citrus limonia.

Aroma

Each fruit has its own particular

aroma, ones with more others with

less bitterness or sharp acidity.

Use

All are ideal sources of vitamin C.

Classic

Refreshments, beaten together with

the skin, crystallized skin and lemon

zest.

Exotic

Marmalades and jellies with a slight

bitterness.

Unmissable

Lemonade, beaten together with the

skin and caipirinhas, especially made

of the more bitter ones. The ong>Amazonong> on the plate

J F M A M J J A S O N D

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Local bitter oranges

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Laranja da terra

Origin

The orange, “laranja da terra”, citrus

aurantium, is a large, round or flattened

orange with a medium thick and

very rough shell. Its pulp is so bitter that

it this type o orange is used almost

exclusively for medicinal purposes. It is

usually cultivated in old-fashioned

backyards. However, its juice used to be

recommend to pregnant women and

reconvalescents. Very rustic, it looks like

the first oranges to be domesticated. Its

normally sold at street markets. It is

quite perishable, what also explain why

it is more and mor vanishing.

Aroma

Prevails the complex bitterness on the

acidity of the juice.

Use

In addition to tradicional medicinal use

and for vitamin C, the “laranja da terra”

is ideal for all kinds of marmalades and

jellies, especially those who also utilize

the skin – marmalade, compote or

crystallized, always preserving a slight

bitterness. Flowers and leaves are used

for teas and to season.

Classic

All kinds of sweets, syrup, lemonade and

caipirinha.

Exotic

Jams or sweets with a slight bitterness.

Unmissable

The “laranja da terra” jam, balancing the

sweetness of the sugar with the natural

bitterness of the fruit, gives although a

delicious caipirinha.

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Limão cravo

Origin

The lemon “limão cravo”, citrus limonia,

also called vinegar or rose lemon, or

even “limão capeta”, the devil's lime, in

English rangpur lime, is the most rustic

and simple brother of the green lime.

Even if the thin skin gets deeply orange

when ripe, it is a lemon. It is quite small

and has a very thin skin and is quite

perishable. Probably it is a hybrid

between mandarin orange and lime and

comes from India. It normally can be

found in backyards and it is sold in

street markets. It rarely find its way to

the supermarket. Formerly was

produced a homemade vinegar from its

fermented juice, what should be the

origin of the name ”limão vinagre”. The

other name “devil's lime” may be a

reference to its accentuated acidity.

Aroma

It has a refreshing acidity, fruity, but

accentuated.

Use

Beaten together with the skin, it turns

a delicious lemonade. The zests of its

skin and its juice flavor cakes and

creams. The fat meat of duck or pig

combine very well with its acidity and

although helps to digest them more

easily.

Classic

Juice, beaten together with the skin.

Exotic

Fatty pork or duck meat cooked in

lemon juice or seasoned with a piece

of dry skin.

Unmissable

A great fruit to make caipirinha.

J F M A M J J A S O N D


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Limão galego

Origin

The so called “limão galego”, citrus

aurantifolia, originates like the other

citrus fruits from Asia. The “limão

galego” can be found exclusively in the

ong>Amazonong>. In the south of Brazil exist

other limes with the same popular

name. It is a very big lemon, with a

thick, rough peel of an intense yellow

color. In the ong>Amazonong> it is being used

almost exclusively to rub over fish and

chicken. Its juice neutralize any vestige

of the localy called “pitiú” (smell of fish

or other unpleasant smells). The act is

described with the local expression of

"washing" the fish. It is found in

backyards and street markets. It is a

very sensitive fruit and spoils faster

than lemons from industrialized

production.

Aroma

It scents and tastes like the classic

lemon, but brings less acidity and a

more fruity and complex aroma. Ideal

for juices and lemonade with or

without use of the skin.

Use

Its dried skin gives a tasty liquor and its

leaf season meats and currys.

Classic

It is almost exclusively used to “wash”

fish and chicken.

Exotic

Sweets, jams and liqueurs with a nice

lemon flavor.

Unmissable

Lemonade, beat together with pieces

of the skin or caipirinha. Perfect with

rice or in citrus sauce accompanying

pasta.

J F M A M J J A S O N D


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Lemon lemonade made from unpeeled, or

partly unpeeled lemons or limes and caipirinhas

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Mari-mari

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Ingá

Origin

Ingás, there are more than 130 species

of these wild string beans, por ex. the

inga cinnamomea, “ingá-açu”, Inga

spectabilis, (middle left) in english called

“ice cream bean”, and “mari-mari”,

cassia leiandra, (low left). All are all

elongated pods that grow on large trees

and belong to the Leguminosae family.

This trees produce sting beans of

numerous forms: short and thick pods

and other very long, twisted and thick

ones. The moss-green, elongated,

distorted pods with the characteristic

grooves of the “ingá-cipo”, inga edulis,

(at right), reach the length of a meter,

but normally not exceed 10-30 cm. The

name “ingá”, indigenous, expresses that

the string bean contain seeds in

Abundance ant they are native to the

Brazilian ong>Amazonong> and north to the

Guiana's. All seeds are covered by a

sweetened pulp that has to be gnawed

from the seeds. Ingas are cultivated as

well as wild harvested, and its fruits,

appreciated by bats, are often available

in ong>Amazonong>ian markets.

Aroma

The pulp is sweet or with a light touch of

mint, remaining cotton candy, but quite

thick and consistent.

Use

Ingas are eaten in natura.

Classic

It is appreciated as dessert.

Exotic

Each “ingá” provides another flavor.

Unmissable

Sharing, poking out the seeds and

gnawing the sweet pulp.

J F M A M J J A S O N D


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Malay apple

Origin

In many places in the ong>Amazonong>

you can find the dense,

pyramidal canopys of the malay

apples, the “jambeiros”, Eugenia

malaccensis. The malay apple

was brought from India in a

flourishing traffic of biodiversity.

From the family of the

Myrtaceas, the flowers and

fruits exhibit exuberant colors:

White, pink, fuchsia, yellow and

purple-red, in a disloyal

competition for beauty. Quite

perishable, the fruits are sold on

street markets and street

borders.

Aroma

Pyramidal fruit, 6-7 cm long,

tastes very soft, sweet, slightly

acid, remembering roses.

Tasting the little juicy pulp and

slightly fluffy repeats the

impression. The pulp involves a

single seed.

Use

The Malaysian apple is eaten in

natura or in the form of jams,

ice creams and intense colored

liqueurs.

Classic

Pink colored compote.

Exotic

Pickled sweet-sour and in

chutneys with expressive colors.

Unmissable

In jams and ice cream or very

colorful liquors.

J F M A M J J A S O N D


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Jenipapo

Origin

The “jenipapeiro”, Genipa americana,

belongs to tropical America and West

India. In the northern region of Brazil it

is found close to Guyana and on the

Marajó island. A liquid which becomes

bluish-black in contact with the air is

drawn from the green fruit. The Indians

use it for their traditional body painting

or to decorate their artifacts. The name

“jenipapo” means in Tupi-Guarani, one

of the indigenous languages, fruit used

for painting. The jenipapeiros bear

fruit from October to April and fruits

are harvested from the ground, thus

reaching maturation.

Aroma

The unappealing fruit with an often

wrinkled skin exudes a strong,

penetrating and sweet, very particular

odor which does not please everyone.

The pulp, involving the many seeds, is

succulent, sweet but with a mild

acidity.

Use

Jams, preserves, ice cream, soft drinks

and liquor. It has a reputation for

combating anemia.

Classic

Juices and sweets.

Exotic

Fried in butter and sweetened with

sugar and cinnamon powder.

Unmissable

The jenipapo liqueur celebrates the

reputation of being aphrodisiac, but

also helps with digestion.

J F M A M J J A S O N D

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Limão-de-

Caiena

Encontrado em quintais antigos, o

limão-de-Caiena, Averrhoa bilimbi,

original do Sudeste da Ásia, é uma

arvoreta decorativa, parente da

carambola cujas frutas brotam do

tronco e lembram pequenos pepinos.

O seu uso caiu em esquecimento

provavelmente porque a frutinha de

casca mole verde neon e forma oval,

alcança entre 4-10 cm de comprimento

tem acidez pronunciada. Consta

que foi introduzido no Brasil através de

Caiena na Guiana Francesa. Contém,

igual a carambola, alto nível de oxalato

de potássio e dessa maneira não deve

ser consumido todos os dias e nem

durante períodos prorrogados e ser

evitado por quem tem problemas

renais. Contém altas doses de

Vitamina C e é bastante perecível.

Aroma

Frutinhos com polpa suculenta de

uma acidez acentuada que lembra

uma mistura entre picles e limão.

Uso

Sucos e caipirinhas. Antigamente

substitui limão e vinagre. Podem ser

usados em vinagretes, picles azedos e

agridoces e geleias. Na Bahia se chama

Bilimbi, ainda é mais aparecido e é

usado em moquecas.

Clássico

Sucos e substituindo limão.

Exótico

Dá uma geleia interessante.

Imperdível

Na caipirinha ou numa moqueca.

J F M A M J J A S O N D


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Mangaba

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Wild passion

fruit

Origin

There are many species of passion

fruit that grow spontaneously in the

Tropical Americas and subtropical

regions, varying in size, color and

flavor. Some are sweet, others are

from a quite remarkable acidity. All are

vigorous vines with very decorative

blossoms and all prefer poor soils. The

“maracuja do mato”, a wild passion

fruit, Passiflora nymphaeoides, is

native to the ong>Amazonong> where it grows

in not very dense forest and clearings.

It is a small passion fruit, with a blue

flower and a coarse fruit whose color

varies between yellow and orange. Its

pulp is formed by black seeds, covered

with a translucent and gelatinous

substance with an enjoyable flavor. It

can be found on street markets and is

sold at the borders of the street, since

it is little cultivated.

Aroma

Pleasant, smooth, slightly sweet and

with the perfume of fruits.

Use

The passion fruit of the jungle is eaten

in natura or in the form of soft drinks.

The dried and crushed skin is a good

source of pectin.

Classic

In natura

Exotic

In the salad.

Unmissable

In natura.

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Murici

Origin

The “muricizeiro”, Byrsonima

Crassifolia, is a small tree, native to

North / Northeast of Brazil.

ong>Amazonong>’s son, the “muricizeiro” is

a very modest plant, resistant to

annual floods of certain regions

and prefers sandy land. The

ong>Amazonong>ian Indians appreciate its

small fruit very much. It is from an

intense yellow and has the size of a

very small olive. The quite greasy

pulp with firm peel involves a

single seed. As many other fruits of

the ong>Amazonong>, “murici” is not tamed.

In each region exists varieties very

different from each other, all

greasy fruits with a very particular

strong aroma. It is a very common

fruit, sold on the street markets.

Aroma

Of a particular aroma, sweet-sour

and with high fat content, the pulp

of some varieties remember

cheese.

Use

Rich in vitamin C, the fleshy pulp is

used to make juices, ice cream,

jellies and sweets.

Classic

Juices and sweets which preserve

the exotic and slightly acidic taste

of the fruit.

Exotic

In natura or in the rice in place of

cheese and in the form of liquor.

Unmissable

In the form of liqueur.

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Pajurá

Origin

The “pajurazeiro”, Coupia bracteosa, a

tree with a fine trunk, medium-sized and

with a dense and dark foliage, is native

to the ong>Amazonong>. Its oval barky fruit with

its rough texture and its unspectacular

brownish color is decoratively speckled

with white. The mature fruit falls down

where it use to ripen and spoil in two or

three days. They are ready for

consumption when the fruit exudes a

very particular sweet fragrance, and the

fine skin cracks and the pulp releases

easily from the large core. The pulp is of

a dark yellow and of a farinaceous

consistency, sandy, granulated and

enjoyable sweet. Once mature, it

decomposes very easy, getting in

fermentation, what often prevents the

commercialization of the fruit on a

professional scale. It is a fruit of

backyards and is sold on street markets.

Aroma

Of a fruitful, very sweet aroma with a

touch of vanilla, but with an oily pulp.

Use

From the pulp is made juices, sweets

and ice creams.

Classic

In the form of ice cream, found in

ice cream shops.

Exotic

Eaten directly from the tree.

Unmissable

Pajurá ice cream.

J F M A M J J A S O N D


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Pitomba

Origin

The “pitombeira”, talisia esculenta, a

small tree with clusters of fruits, is native

to the West ong>Amazonong>, from where it

spread out to Brazil. The small size fruits

of the size of a small cherry tomato

round or ellipsoid with rough bark, grow

in bunches in backyards or public places

and are sold bunched together in small,

decorative bundles with 3-4 bunches

each. It is sold at street markets and on

the street by street vendors. The fruit's

hard shell is easy to open and releases a

thin layer of juicy and sweet flesh with a

quite big lump. It is a very perishable

fruit and should be consumed

immediately upon purchase. Its seed has

medicinal properties.

Aroma

Aromatic, with a light citrus flavor with a

touch of sweetness, the thin layer of

edible flesh is almost gelatinous, quite

transparent and involves one or two

seeds.

Use

Uncooked and consumed in natura or in

the form of liquor.

Classic

In natura

Exotic

Accompanying fish or meat.

Unmissable

In natura

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Sapota

Origin

The sapoti, oval and oblong and

the sapote or sapotilha, more

rounded, are the fruits of the

sapotizeiro, achras sapota from

Mexico and Central America. In

Brazil the tree is common in the

ong>Amazonong> and in the Northeast. The

fruit is a fleshy berry, variable in

shape, size and weight. The fruit’s

thin and rough skin is of a rusty

yellowish-brown. It is a very valued

fruit. Usually it is sold hard but

softens in a few days. The firm,

yellowish creamy colored, soft pulp

involves several dark seeds. The

texture of the pulp is a bit sandy or

granular. From its shell can be

extracted a latex which provides a

rubber called “chicle”, chewing

gum. It can be found at local street

markets as it gives little professional

plantation.

Aroma

Its aroma resembles a juicy, sweet

pear without any acidity.

Use

Usually, the sapodila is eaten in

natura, but it gives a delicious ice

cream or juice.

Classic

Eaten in natura.

Exotic

A perfect match with stronger

cheeses.

Unmissable

As sorbet or in natura

J F M A M J J A S O N D


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Taperebá

Origin

The “taperebá” or “cajá”, Spondias mombin,

makes parte of the Anacardiaceade family and

comes from the Tropical Americas. Some

English-speaking countries called it “yellow

mombin” or hog/spanish plum, He is related to

“umbu” and “ciriguela”, Spondias purpurea, a

very similar fruit of a reddish color and clearly

less acidic (photo left hand). The tree is high,

can reach 30 meters. The oblong fruit is small,

varying in size from a golden yellow and is born

in curls. The mature fruit has a leathery skin and

a thin layer of juicy pulp of a thickness of 3 mm,

adhering to a fibrous and soft core. It is very

appreciated and the ripe fruit exudes a specific

acid, unmistakable and delicious scent. It is very

perishable and so it needs to be processed

shortly after harvesting. One finds “taperebá”

on street markets and processed in the form of

pulp also in the supermarket.

Aroma

Acid, fragrant, juicy and refreshing, the aroma

of the “taperebá” vaguely remembers certain

citrus fruits.

Use

The orange pulp is widely used for ice creams

and refreshments. Its sharp acidity and its fruity

aroma combine very well with mousses and

syrups. Contains lots of pectin and gives an

excellent jelly.

Classic

The pulp is used to make soft drinks and ice

creams.

Exotic

In the caipirinha, as a sauce for salads or fish, as

a sorbet.

Unmissable

Juice and sorbet.

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A table overflowing with

local fruits

Anyone enjoys a generous table overflowing from all type of

local fruits. Abundance of colors and shapes fills the guest’s

eyes, delight Greeks and Trojans, and everybody is invited to

taste a bit of delicious fruits of the season, served in natura or

cut into appetizing pieces. When they are combined in a

colorful fruit salad or mixed into drinks and refreshing juices

they also are a success. Offered a large variety of colors,

shapes and flavors over large green leaves or in inajás boats, a

local palm tree’s shell, just give it an even more exotic touch.

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Selling cashew nuts

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Forest’s

Delights

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Cashew nut

Origin

The cashew nut, the cashew tree’s

seed, Anacardium occidentale, which

originates from Brazilian’s Northern

and Northeastern coast, was taken by

settlers to Africa and Asia. The raw

cashew nut, resembles a fleshy ear and

hangs at the end of the cashew

pseudo-fruit. With highly toxic bark,

the nuts, rich in protein and

carbohydrates, need to cooked or

roasted in an oven or above a charcoal

fire and then must be peeled to

become edible. Its shell contains a very

toxic liquid which irritates the skin.

That complex procedure explains the

high price obtained by processed

cashew nuts.

Aroma

The cashew nut has the soft taste of

other nuts.

Use

Replace other nuts. Salty, it is perfect

as an aperitif and in natural combines

with biscuits and cakes. At the country

side people used to prepare “paçoca”

by mixing the nuts crushed or piled

together with cassava flour and sugar.

Classic

Salty in the form of appetizer or sweet

in cakes and cookies.

Exotic

In thin flakes accompanying fish, on the

rice or green salad or fruit salads.

Unmissable

Mixed as a crunchy bit into fish balls.

J F M A M J J A S O N D


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Burning raw cashewnuts

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Cake “Pé de moleque”

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Brasil nuts in the “ouriço”

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Brazil nuts in the shell and new ones, peeled off

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Brazil nut

Origin

The Brazil nut tree, bertholletia excelsa,

with its very appreciated fruit, is native

of the ong>Amazonong>’s rain forest. It is one of

the highest trees in the jungle, reaches

50 meters and over tops all other trees.

Its reproductive cycle is highly complex,

involving a huge bee specialized in

Brazil nut trees. 14 months after

pollination releases the hedgehog, a

ball fulfilled with nuts, weighing up to

1.5 kg with an extremely hard bark.

Recently fallen, the nuts are delicate,

sweets and called .“castanhas de leite”,

milk nuts.

Aroma

The delicate aroma of the Brazil nut

reminds other nuts, especially

hazelnuts. The young nuts are sweeter

and crunchier than the ripe or toasted

ones.

Use

Very rich in oils and minerals and is

used in biscuits and fine cakes. Because

they contain certain minerals, Brazil

nuts should be consumed with

moderation. On the country side the

peeled Brazil nut is roasted, what

prevents from oxidation. Soaked or

pilled together with cassava flour and

sugar it turns to “paçoca”. It is also

mixed together with the tapioca flour

to make “beijus”.

Classic

Cakes, cookies and ice creams.

Exotic

Fish in Brazil nut’s milk sauce obtained

of the very new ones.

Unmissable

Fish in Brazil nut’s milk sauce.

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J F M A M J J A S O N D


“Castanha sapucaia”, a nut

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Castanha

sapucaia

Origin

The “Sapucaizeiro” Tree, Lecythis

pisonis (or Lusitta), from the same

family as the Brazil nut tree, origins

from the ong>Amazonong>, but it can also be

found in the coastal rainforests

In Brazil’s south. A majestic tree, it

reaches up to 40 m. In flower, it

covers itself completely with bluish

pink flowers. About ten month later,

the heavy hedgehog reaches the

weight of a few pounds. Shaped like

an elongated hat or cloche, it

releases, getting mature, a lid, and so

let go the nuts, perfectly stored in its

interior. They are delicious nuts, but

very perishable and appear for a short

time on the street markets.

Aroma

The nuts are very aromatic, crunchy

and sweet and pleasantly oily. They

are more milky than Brazil nuts.

Use

They are rich in fats and with a great

protein contents. Peoples used to eat

them fresh, toasted or crushed and it

is also appreciated the so-called

"navel" of the nut, the white part

without bark.

Classic

Appreciated right from the tree.

Exotic

It would be a luxury to take its oil.

Unmissable

Appreciated in natural.

J F M A M J J A S O N D


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Steet food

In the ong>Amazonong>, it is very common, to eat on the street. Many traditional

dishes like “tacacá” are appreciated almost exclusively on public places.

Nobody prepares them at home. Beginning with alocal, comforting

breakfast, including coffee, I recommend you the next street corner.

Surrounding the street markets you can find a lot of small restaurants, all

specialized in well-reinforced local breakfasts. Delicious, the home made

porridge, sold from a hand-adapted pushcart, the tapioca made on the

spot and served in a banana tree leaf! Each city has a famous

“tacacazeira”, which often also serves “vatapá” and “cariru”. The late

afternoon, just as the night falls, well-laid tables skipping outside from the

kitchen in the neighborhood to the sidewalks full of hurried hungry clients.

They serve everything from pizza to cake and many yummy local food to.

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Research, Photos, Texts and Design Susanne Gerber-Barata -

Susangeba@gmail.com

All Rights Reserved, copyright with Susanne Gerber-Barata, susangeba@gmail.com

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