Times of the Islands Summer 2019
Presents the "soul of the Turks & Caicos Islands" with in-depth features about local people, culture, history, environment, businesses, resorts, restaurants and activities.
Presents the "soul of the Turks & Caicos Islands" with in-depth features about local people, culture, history, environment, businesses, resorts, restaurants and activities.
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TIMES<br />
SAMPLING THE SOUL OF THE TURKS & CAICOS ISLANDS SUMMER <strong>2019</strong> NO. 127<br />
OF THE<br />
ISLANDS<br />
HUMPBACK WHALES<br />
Then to now<br />
CONCHED OUT?<br />
Local fishery in peril<br />
SALT OF THE EARTH<br />
A Salt Cay Adventure
H O W D O YO U L I K E Y O U R L U X U R Y ?<br />
EFFORTLESS? OR BRILLIANTLY UNCONVENTIONAL?<br />
THE SHORE CLUB<br />
THE SHORE CLUB<br />
THE PALMS<br />
THE PALMS<br />
THE SHORE CLUB<br />
The refined sophistication <strong>of</strong> The Palms on Grace Bay<br />
Beach, consistently honored by travel publications<br />
for its sense <strong>of</strong> elegance and easy atmosphere. The<br />
savvy chic <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Shore Club, <strong>the</strong> stunning new gamechanger<br />
on Long Bay Beach. Where whimsy rules and<br />
magic awaits around every corner. Each with a style<br />
and a vibe all its own. Both singular destinations, part<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Hartling Group’s stellar portfolio <strong>of</strong> luxury resorts<br />
which also includes The Sands at Grace Bay. Your call.<br />
THE COOL SIDE OF CLASSIC<br />
649.946.8666<br />
<strong>the</strong>palmstc.com<br />
WRITE YOUR STORY HERE<br />
649.339.8000<br />
<strong>the</strong>shoreclubtc.com
TURKS & CAICOS<br />
Generation<br />
Everyone<br />
Everything’s Included for Everyone!<br />
2018<br />
2018<br />
More Quality<br />
Inclusions than<br />
any o<strong>the</strong>r Resorts<br />
in <strong>the</strong> World<br />
At Beaches ® Turks & Caicos, everyone can create <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
own perfect vacation. For some, it’s <strong>the</strong> white-sand<br />
beaches and calm waters featuring unlimited land and<br />
water sports. For o<strong>the</strong>rs, it’s <strong>the</strong> awesome 45,000 sq.<br />
ft. waterpark with surf simulator. There’s 5-Star Global<br />
Gourmet TM dining at 21 incredible restaurants, and<br />
non-stop bars and entertainment —and it’s always<br />
included. Even <strong>the</strong> tips, taxes, and Beaches transfers*.<br />
We’ve even added trend-setting food trucks, new live<br />
entertainment, and re-styled accommodations<br />
… making <strong>the</strong> World’s Best even better for<br />
Generation Everyone.<br />
BEACHES.COM in <strong>the</strong> U.S. & Canada: 1-800-BEACHES<br />
In <strong>the</strong> Caribbean: 1-888-BEACHES; In Turks & Caicos 649-946-8000<br />
@beachesresorts<br />
WORLD’S BEST ALL-INCLUSIVE FAMILY RESORTS<br />
21<br />
YEARS IN A ROW AT THE WORLD TRAVEL AWARDS<br />
TM/© <strong>2019</strong> Sesame Workshop<br />
*Airport transfers included. O<strong>the</strong>r transfers may be additional. Beaches ® is a registered trademark. Unique Vacations, Inc., is an affiliate <strong>of</strong> Unique Travel Corp., <strong>the</strong> worldwide representative <strong>of</strong> Beaches Resorts.
contents<br />
Departments<br />
6 From <strong>the</strong> Editor<br />
13 Getting to Know<br />
Chelsea Stubbs<br />
By Kathy Borsuk<br />
Photos By Daphne Roots<br />
16 Eye on <strong>the</strong> Sky<br />
Let it Rain!<br />
By Paul Wilkerson<br />
30 Creature Feature<br />
A Master <strong>of</strong> Illusion: The Longlure Frogfish<br />
By Brian Heagney ~ Photos By Sabine Frank,<br />
Humpback Dive Shack, Grand Turk<br />
54 Exploring <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong><br />
Finding <strong>the</strong> Salt <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Earth<br />
Story & Photos By Mat Matlack<br />
60 Faces & Places<br />
Caribbean House Evolution <strong>2019</strong><br />
72 About <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>/TCI Map<br />
77 Where to Stay<br />
78 Classified Ads<br />
80 Dining Out<br />
82 Subscription Form<br />
Features<br />
22 Conched Out?<br />
By Kathleen Wood<br />
40 The Hunt for Whales<br />
By Ben Stubenberg<br />
48 Gentle Giants<br />
Story & Photos By Kelly Currington<br />
TIMES<br />
OF THE<br />
ISLANDS<br />
SAMPLING THE SOUL OF THE TURKS & CAICOS ISLANDS SUMMER <strong>2019</strong> NO. 127<br />
On <strong>the</strong> Cover<br />
Brian Heagney <strong>of</strong> The Humpback Dive Shack on Grand<br />
Turk took this photo <strong>of</strong> a humpback whale this Winter<br />
season. His business specializes in eco-friendly, lowimpact<br />
whale watching/swimming (January to April),<br />
scuba diving, Stingray tours and snorkeling around <strong>the</strong><br />
warm waters <strong>of</strong> Grand Turk and Salt Cay. For more information,<br />
visit humpbackdiveshack.com.<br />
Green Pages<br />
32 “Fingerprinting” Whales<br />
By Cathy Bacon, Mithriel MacKay and<br />
Katharine Hart ~ Photos By Katharine Hart,<br />
Deep Blue Charters<br />
36 All is Not Well<br />
Tissue Loss Disease<br />
Story & Photos By Erin Bowman and<br />
Heidi Hertler<br />
Astrolabe<br />
62 Bold and Unapologetic<br />
Story & Photos By Dr. Michael Pateman and<br />
Vanessa Forbes-Pateman<br />
66 To <strong>the</strong> Rescue<br />
By Dr. Shaun Sullivan and Dr. Michael Pateman<br />
Photos Courtesy Turks & Caicos National<br />
Museum<br />
EDITOR’S NOTE: OOPS! It was brought to my attention that this image,<br />
appearing on page 36 <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Spring <strong>2019</strong> <strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> was<br />
drastically misidentified. It was not a “clump <strong>of</strong> tube sponges” but a<br />
Pencil Urchin (Heterocentrotus sp.). Brian Heagney <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Humpback<br />
Dive Shack in Grand Turk comments, “From <strong>the</strong> image it is clear that<br />
<strong>the</strong> animal is still alive and it would be considered uncommon to find<br />
<strong>the</strong>m on <strong>the</strong> beach alive—ra<strong>the</strong>r in tide pools and shallow reefs close<br />
to <strong>the</strong> beach. They can be washed ashore in storm conditions and<br />
soon after death <strong>the</strong> ‘pencils’ break away from <strong>the</strong> body and can be<br />
found while (beach)combing.” Amy Avenant <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> DECR concurs, adding,<br />
“They do leave behind <strong>the</strong> loveliest <strong>of</strong> shells when <strong>the</strong>y ‘expire’<br />
and <strong>the</strong>ir spines are <strong>of</strong>ten sought after for jewelry (not great).” The<br />
error is entirely mine and I appreciate our eagle-eye readers.<br />
MARTA MORTON—WWW.HARBOURCLUBVILLAS.COM<br />
4 www.timespub.tc
TurksAndCaicosProperty.com<br />
Windhaven - Long Bay Beachfront<br />
Turks and Caicos investors looking for strong cash flow and a turn key property look no fur<strong>the</strong>r than<br />
Windhaven, Long Bay Beach villas. This 8 bedroom boutique resort real estate <strong>of</strong>fering is situated on 2.23<br />
acres <strong>of</strong> prime Long Bay beachfront land with an incredible 155 ft. <strong>of</strong> pristine white sandy beach frontage.<br />
The entire property has been beautifully designed and impeccably maintained by <strong>the</strong> current owners.<br />
US$7,200,000<br />
Wymara - Grace Bay Beachfront<br />
Wymara Turks & Caicos suite 1201/02/03 is a contemporary 2nd floor 3 bedroom beachfront condo<br />
on <strong>the</strong> world famous Grace Bay Beach. This spacious 2,543 sq. ft. luxury suite is composed <strong>of</strong> a separate<br />
beachfront one bedroom condo, beachfront studio condo, and an ocean view studio condo. An excellent<br />
investment with strong financial returns. Contact Bernadette Hunt for more information on purchasing.<br />
US$2,500,000<br />
Bernadette Hunt<br />
Cell ~ 649 231 4029 | Tel ~ 649 941 3361<br />
Bernadette@TurksAndCaicosProperty.com<br />
Bernadette has lived in <strong>the</strong> Turks and Caicos<br />
<strong>Islands</strong> for over 21 years and witnessed <strong>the</strong><br />
development and transition <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> islands<br />
into a significant tourist destination. Based<br />
on independent figures her gross transaction<br />
numbers are unrivalled. Bernadette<br />
has listings on Providenciales, Pine Cay,<br />
Ambergris Cay, North and Middle Caicos<br />
and is delighted to work with sellers and<br />
buyers <strong>of</strong> homes, condos, commercial real<br />
estate and vacant undeveloped sites.<br />
Turks and Caicos Property is <strong>the</strong> leading<br />
independent real estate firm in <strong>the</strong> Turks and<br />
Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> with <strong>of</strong>fices located at Ocean<br />
Club West Resort and Ocean Club West<br />
Plaza on <strong>the</strong> Grace Bay Road.<br />
Bernadette’s reputation and success has been<br />
earned over time through her dedication,<br />
enthusiasm and passion for real estate. Her<br />
personal experience as having practiced law<br />
in <strong>the</strong> islands for more than 10 years toge<strong>the</strong>r<br />
with owning and renovating a number <strong>of</strong><br />
properties means she is well-placed to advise<br />
her customers and developers on what to<br />
anticipate in <strong>the</strong> purchasing and construction<br />
process.<br />
Bernadette delights in working in <strong>the</strong> real<br />
estate industry and her humor and energy<br />
make her a pleasure to work with.<br />
Grace Bay - Commercial Land<br />
This <strong>of</strong>fering consists <strong>of</strong> 2 large vacant commercial lots (parcel 96 & 97) with a total <strong>of</strong> 1.87 acres in <strong>the</strong><br />
heart <strong>of</strong> Grace Bay, <strong>the</strong> Turks and Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>’ premier luxury destination. Situated just behind Grace Bay<br />
Road and <strong>the</strong> Bella Luna Restaurant and about a minute away from <strong>the</strong> Ritz Carlton (under construction).<br />
A truly excellent Turks and Caicos investment opportunity with endless possibilities to develop.<br />
Please contact Bernadette if you would like<br />
to find out more about owning real estate in<br />
<strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />
US$2,500,000
from <strong>the</strong> editor<br />
KATHARINE HART–DEEP BLUE CHARTERS, GRAND TURK<br />
Yes, this is a trio <strong>of</strong> whales “waving” <strong>the</strong>ir pectoral fins in <strong>the</strong> waters between Salt Cay and Cotton Cay this winter season. The photo was<br />
taken as part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> TCI Humpback Whale Citizen Science Project. (See page 32.)<br />
Good News, Bad News<br />
Good news: This winter season (2018/19) was excellent for residents, visitors and scientists eager to observe<br />
humpback whales migrating from <strong>the</strong> nor<strong>the</strong>rn Atlantic to <strong>the</strong> Caribbean’s warmer waters to give birth and mate. I’m<br />
so pleased at <strong>the</strong> expansive coverage we are able to provide in this issue <strong>of</strong> this important seasonal ritual that has<br />
deep roots in history.<br />
Bad news: TCI’s conch fishery could be in trouble if active steps are not taken now to protect <strong>the</strong> country’s iconic<br />
mollusk. Be sure to read Kathleen Wood’s outline <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> situation and suggested remedies.<br />
Good news: On May 1, <strong>2019</strong>, TCI’s nationwide ban on single-use plastic bags took effect. As someone who was<br />
trained by my mo<strong>the</strong>r to use cloth bags for decades (and who endured <strong>the</strong> strange looks <strong>of</strong> Provo store clerks for<br />
many years), I am ecstatic! I admire local supermarket chain Graceway IGA for <strong>the</strong>ir “Staying Blue” campaign, designed<br />
to encourage shoppers to earn tokens to donate to charities each time <strong>the</strong>y bring or buy a reusable bag.<br />
Bad news: As reported by Heidi Hertler and scientists at <strong>the</strong> School for Field Studies on South Caicos (page 36),<br />
an unusual disease has been spotted on coral reefs <strong>the</strong>re and on West Caicos. Fortunately, it has been caught early<br />
and could be remedied with <strong>the</strong> help <strong>of</strong> research done in o<strong>the</strong>r places where it has struck.<br />
Ah! How we must pray for our “groaning” planet! But how thankful I am that we have so many concerned people<br />
doing <strong>the</strong>ir “work on <strong>the</strong> ground” to help save it.<br />
Kathy Borsuk, Editor<br />
timespub@tciway.tc • (649) 946-4788<br />
6 www.timespub.tc
With a rich blend <strong>of</strong> homes, waterfront access and <strong>the</strong> exceptional service and<br />
world-class resort amenities expertly provided by Grace Bay Resorts, South Bank<br />
is a haven for those seeking to celebrate island life on <strong>the</strong> untouched south<br />
side <strong>of</strong> Providenciales on Long Bay. Featuring oceanfront villas, lagoon villas<br />
and boathouses complete with private docks, <strong>the</strong> six marina and oceanfront<br />
neighborhoods <strong>of</strong> South Bank <strong>of</strong>fer <strong>the</strong> ideal residence for you to simply be you.<br />
Prices range from $750,000 to $8m<br />
Register interest at livesouthbank.com<br />
Developed by <strong>the</strong><br />
Windward Development Company<br />
www.windward.tc<br />
For more information contact<br />
Nina Siegenthaler at 649.231.0707<br />
Joe Zahm at 649.231.6188<br />
or email: nina@tcso<strong>the</strong>bysrealty.com<br />
Brand partners:
FIVE DISTINCT VILLAGES<br />
TO CHOOSE FROM<br />
1. Key West Village 2. Italian Village<br />
2018<br />
2018<br />
THE WORLD’S BEST<br />
IS NOW BETTERTHANEVER<br />
BEACHES VOTED WORLD’S LEADING ALL-INCLUSIVE FAMILY RESORTS<br />
21<br />
YEARS IN A ROW AT THE WORLD TRAVEL AWARDS<br />
Beaches, waterparks, pools—<strong>the</strong>re’s<br />
something for everyone.<br />
MORE QUALITY INCLUSIONS THAN ANY OTHER RESORTS IN THE WORLD
3. Caribbean Village 4. French Village 5. Seaside Village<br />
WHERE EVERYTHING’S<br />
INCLUDED FOR EVERYONE<br />
At Beaches ® Turks & Caicos, everyone can create <strong>the</strong>ir own perfect day. For some, it’s <strong>the</strong><br />
white-sand beaches and calm waters featuring land and water sports. For o<strong>the</strong>rs, it’s <strong>the</strong><br />
awesome 45,000 sq. ft. waterpark with surf simulator. There’s 5-Star Global Gourmet TM<br />
dining at 21 incredible restaurants, and non-stop bars and entertainment —and it’s always<br />
included—tips, taxes and Beaches transfers*, too. We’ve even added trend-setting food trucks,<br />
new live entertainment, and re-styled accommodations … making <strong>the</strong> World’s Best even better.<br />
*Visit www.beaches.com/disclaimers/times<strong>of</strong><strong>the</strong>islandsspring<strong>2019</strong> or call 1-800-SANDALS for important terms and conditions.<br />
Hang out with some real<br />
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5-Star Global Gourmet dining.<br />
TM/© <strong>2019</strong> Sesame Workshop<br />
BEACHES.COM • In <strong>the</strong> U.S. and Canada: 1-800-BEACHES;<br />
In <strong>the</strong> Caribbean: 1-888-BEACHES; In Turks & Caicos: 649-946-8000 or call your Travel Pr<strong>of</strong>essional
THE WORLD’S BEST IS<br />
BETTER<br />
BEACHES VOTED WORLD’S BEST<br />
21<br />
YEARS IN A ROW AT THE WORLD TRAVEL AWARDS<br />
Beaches ® Turks & Caicos has held <strong>the</strong> top spot at <strong>the</strong> World Travel<br />
Awards for two decades by <strong>of</strong>fering families more <strong>of</strong> everything<br />
on <strong>the</strong> world’s best beach. Every land and water sport, an<br />
awe-inspiring waterpark with surf simulator, 5-Star Global<br />
For more information, visit BEACHES.COM<br />
In <strong>the</strong> U.S. and Canada: 1-800-BEACHES;<br />
In <strong>the</strong> Caribbean: 1-888-BEACHES;<br />
Gourmet TM dining at 21 incredible restaurants, and non-stop bars<br />
and entertainment — always included. And now we’ve added<br />
trend-setting food trucks, new live entertainment, and restyled<br />
accommodations … making <strong>the</strong> World’s Best even better.<br />
In Turks & Caicos:649-946-8000<br />
or call your Travel Pr<strong>of</strong>essional<br />
TIPS, TAXES AND BEACHES TRANSFERS* INCLUDED<br />
MORE QUALITY INCLUSIONS THAN ANY OTHER RESORTS IN THE WORLD<br />
TM/© <strong>2019</strong> Sesame Workshop
Five Distinct Villages<br />
to Choose From<br />
1. Key West Village 2. Italian Village 3. Caribbean Village 4. French Village 5. Seaside Village<br />
THANEVER<br />
Beaches Turks & Caicos<br />
is on <strong>the</strong> world’s<br />
#1 BEST BEACH<br />
by tripadvisor ®<br />
*Visit www.beaches.com/disclaimers/times<strong>of</strong><strong>the</strong>islandsspring<strong>2019</strong>btc or call 1-800-BEACHES for important terms and conditions.
TIMES<br />
MANAGING EDITOR<br />
Kathy Borsuk<br />
ADVERTISING MANAGER<br />
Claire Parrish<br />
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS<br />
Amy Avenant, Cathy Bacon, Kathy Borsuk, Erin Bowman,<br />
Kelly Currington, Vanessa Forbes-Pateman, Katharine Hart,<br />
Brian Heagney, Heidi Hertler, Mithriel MacKay, Mat Matlack,<br />
Dr. Michael P. Pateman, Ben Stubenberg, Dr. Shaun Sullivan,<br />
Lisa Talbot, Ziahon Taylor, Paul Wilkerson, Kathleen Wood.<br />
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS<br />
Almay.com, Erin Bowman, Caribbean House Evolution,<br />
Kelly Currington, Vanessa Forbes-Pateman, Sabine Frank–<br />
Humpback Dive Shack, Katharine Hart–Deep Blue Charters,<br />
Brian Heagney–Humpback Dive Shack, Heidi Hertler,<br />
Istock.com, Mat Matlack, Marta Morton–Harbour Club Villas,<br />
Dr. Michael P. Pateman, Daphne Roots, Ramona Settle,<br />
Turks & Caicos National Museum, Paul Wilkerson.<br />
CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS<br />
Caribbean Climate Outlook Forum,<br />
Wavey Line Publishing<br />
PRINTING<br />
PF Solutions, Miami, FL<br />
OF THE<br />
ISLANDS<br />
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12 www.timespub.tc
getting to know<br />
BWIC top student Chelsea Stubbs achieved academic accolades while overcoming<br />
great difficulties at home.<br />
She Will Reap<br />
BWIC student Chelsea Stubbs.<br />
By Kathy Borsuk ~ Photo By Daphne Roots<br />
Let us not grow weary or become discouraged in doing good,<br />
for at <strong>the</strong> proper time we will reap, if we do not give in.<br />
Most <strong>of</strong> us are familiar with <strong>the</strong> Bible verse that tells us that we reap what we sow. It’s always uplifting<br />
when we witness a concrete example <strong>of</strong> this credo in action.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2019</strong> 13
Chelsea Stubbs, <strong>the</strong> British West Indies Collegiate’s<br />
Head Girl, bears an incredible list <strong>of</strong> academic accomplishments.<br />
She earned <strong>the</strong> “Top BWIC Student Award<br />
from Year 7 to Year 11” and achieved <strong>the</strong> coveted place<br />
<strong>of</strong> “Valedictorian <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Year 11 Class <strong>of</strong> 2017.” Two<br />
years after achieving ten A*s at IGCSE, she has just completed<br />
her final year <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Advanced Level courses in<br />
Ma<strong>the</strong>matics, Biology and Chemistry and achieved all<br />
As in her AS exams. But her greater success came when<br />
she was lauded as “Top in <strong>the</strong> World for Cambridge<br />
International AS Level Chemistry,” achieving <strong>the</strong> highest<br />
mark in <strong>the</strong> world in her three Chemistry papers. She did<br />
similarly well in Biology (93%) and Ma<strong>the</strong>matics (94%).<br />
O<strong>the</strong>r accolades include being recognized as <strong>the</strong><br />
country’s Top Science and Humanities student and Overall<br />
Best Performing Student (shared with Tyrese Saunders)<br />
during <strong>the</strong> National Academic Awards in January <strong>2019</strong>.<br />
During her educational career at BWIC, she has also won<br />
first place in <strong>the</strong> National Inter-High School Spelling Bee<br />
and first place in <strong>the</strong> Fortis Science Quiz for three consecutive<br />
years. At <strong>the</strong> same time, she was a formidable force<br />
on <strong>the</strong> BWIC s<strong>of</strong>tball and volleyball teams, both national<br />
champions.<br />
What does this have to do with sowing? At <strong>the</strong> same<br />
time as all <strong>of</strong> this was taking place in 2017, Chelsea’s<br />
fa<strong>the</strong>r, Bennett Stubbs, suffered two massive strokes.<br />
Single-handedly at <strong>the</strong>ir home, Chelsea nursed her fa<strong>the</strong>r<br />
through his illness and recovery, cared for her grandfa<strong>the</strong>r<br />
Stanley Stubbs, and ran <strong>the</strong> household. She traveled<br />
with her dad on hospital visits to <strong>the</strong> Dominican Republic<br />
(she is fluent in Spanish and was well able to represent<br />
him), as well as to <strong>the</strong> US for speech <strong>the</strong>rapy.<br />
I can’t imagine how hard it must have been for a teenager<br />
to contend with so many responsibilities. However,<br />
Chelsea does not dwell on difficulties; instead, she turns<br />
<strong>the</strong>m into learning experiences. She would undertake<br />
extra studies at school after spending <strong>the</strong> entire night at<br />
<strong>the</strong> hospital, tending to her fa<strong>the</strong>r. When he came home,<br />
Chelsea used <strong>the</strong> Internet to learn about nursing and<br />
stroke rehabilitation. Through it all, she never questioned<br />
having to do <strong>the</strong> right thing.<br />
O<strong>the</strong>rs have sowed into Chelsea’s life, as well, and<br />
are now delighted with her success. Besides her fa<strong>the</strong>r’s<br />
life-long advice to put her best effort towards everything<br />
she does, Chelsea credits her godparents, Mr. and Mrs.<br />
Warren Forde, with setting her sights high. “They always<br />
lifted me up and encouraged me to do well in school. I<br />
wanted to make <strong>the</strong>m proud and show that <strong>the</strong>ir support<br />
was not wasted.”<br />
Chelsea Stubbs excels in science and will be attending Imperial<br />
College in London this September to study medicine.<br />
After her primary education at B.E.S.T. Institute,<br />
Chelsea was <strong>of</strong>fered a full seven-year scholarship by<br />
Graceway IGA to attend BWIC. Her dream had come true<br />
and she joined <strong>the</strong> Collegiate in Year 7 (Form 1). BWIC<br />
Principal Sylvie Wigglesworth states, “Her academic brilliance<br />
and high degree <strong>of</strong> self-discipline were impressive<br />
from day one. She never took anything for granted and<br />
continued on her quest for excellence.” Besides being<br />
Chelsea’s principal, Mrs. Wigglesworth has been her<br />
mentor for years. Chelsea says, “Madame has been a very<br />
special part <strong>of</strong> my life and I will never forget how she went<br />
out <strong>of</strong> her way to help me countless times. I did not know<br />
<strong>the</strong>re could be so much love in <strong>the</strong> heart <strong>of</strong> one person.”<br />
Chelsea adds that she also received a lot <strong>of</strong> support<br />
from her Biology and Physics teachers at <strong>the</strong> Collegiate.<br />
“They made a significant contribution to my success.<br />
They always believed in my abilities and were instrumental<br />
in seeding a deep love for <strong>the</strong> subjects. They were<br />
constantly taking me beyond <strong>the</strong> confines <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> syllabus,<br />
making science fun and rewarding by placing it into <strong>the</strong><br />
context <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> wider world.”<br />
14 www.timespub.tc
BWIC ad May <strong>2019</strong> <strong>Times</strong> 2_Layout 1 5/22/19 1:17 PM Page 1<br />
During her A levels, although Chelsea did her best to<br />
make good use <strong>of</strong> her time at school, she inevitably had<br />
to miss some lessons due to being at <strong>the</strong> hospital with<br />
her dad, preparing for medical school entrance exams,<br />
and flying to England for university interviews. She says,<br />
“I am very grateful to <strong>the</strong> school and my teachers, espcially<br />
Miss Jones, who have supported me in and outside<br />
school, for understanding my situation and trusting that<br />
I would make up for lost time. I would also like to thank<br />
a benevolent member <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> community and his wife for<br />
taking me into <strong>the</strong>ir home while my dad was away so<br />
I could have a quiet space to prepare for <strong>the</strong> Year 12<br />
exams.”<br />
What does <strong>the</strong> future hold for this ever-smiling,<br />
upbeat 19 year-old? Chelsea hopes to use her life experience<br />
to learn to heal o<strong>the</strong>rs. With a full scholarship from<br />
<strong>the</strong> TCI Government (as Top National Scholar), she plans<br />
to study medicine and has completed difficult interviews<br />
at Sheffield and Manchester Medical Schools in <strong>the</strong> UK, as<br />
well as Imperial College in London, one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most prestigious<br />
schools <strong>of</strong> medicine in <strong>the</strong> world. All three have<br />
<strong>of</strong>fered her a place, with Chelsea preferring Imperial, and<br />
anticipating a September start.<br />
Her scholarship bond requires that she return to<br />
TCI to practice medicine for five years and this humble<br />
student has clear ideas on how she wants to “doctor.”<br />
She says, “I want to be a general practitioner, talking to<br />
patients, learning about <strong>the</strong>ir needs, and <strong>the</strong>n being <strong>the</strong><br />
one to send <strong>the</strong>m to <strong>the</strong> necessary specialist. My goal is<br />
to diagnose disease, especially mental illness, early-on<br />
and treat my patients as whole persons–mind, body and<br />
soul.”<br />
Chelsea has engaged in meaningful work experience,<br />
volunteering at <strong>the</strong> Provo Children’s Home and<br />
local Emergency Medical Service. She also shadows Dr.<br />
Bourne and Dr. Menzies at Associated Medical Practices<br />
in Providenciales.<br />
It is clear that Chelsea Stubbs is not a person out for<br />
accolades. She is calm, happy, and very well-rounded. She<br />
plays <strong>the</strong> flute in <strong>the</strong> BWIC band, bakes cakes, cupcakes<br />
and brownies and loves to read 20th century history.<br />
She wants to nurture <strong>the</strong> seeds <strong>of</strong> opportunity that have<br />
sprouted in her young life. As Chelsea says, “Good things<br />
follow you when you are determined to work hard to<br />
accomplish <strong>the</strong>m.” a<br />
By <strong>the</strong> way, Chelsea reports that her fa<strong>the</strong>r has made an<br />
excellent recovery and is back to a happy life as normal.<br />
THE GOLD STANDARD OF PRIVATE<br />
SECONDARY EDUCATION IN TCI<br />
Established in 1993 in <strong>the</strong> heart <strong>of</strong> Providenciales, <strong>the</strong><br />
British West Indies Collegiate provides high quality<br />
education from age 11 through to 18 (Years 7 to 13), based<br />
on <strong>the</strong> British National Curriculum. The school is an<br />
accredited Cambridge Assessment International Education<br />
Centre for IGCSE and GCE Advanced Level qualifications<br />
as well as a SAT centre. The student population comprises<br />
approximately 160 students, typically made up <strong>of</strong> 60%<br />
Turks & Caicos Islanders and 40% international students.<br />
Facilities at <strong>the</strong> Collegiate include four science<br />
laboratories, a 25-unit computer room, an extensive<br />
library, a Sixth Form common room, and Brayton Hall -<br />
our fully-equipped performance centre. We welcome<br />
applications from all age groups. However, placement is<br />
strictly based on performance in <strong>the</strong> school's entrance<br />
examinations.<br />
A high proportion <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Collegiate's IGCSE and A-Level<br />
graduates consistently achieve distinction with <strong>the</strong> highest<br />
grades in a range <strong>of</strong> academic subjects. History has<br />
repeatedly shown that our A-Level graduates prove not<br />
only to be suitably equipped to compete for places in <strong>the</strong><br />
world's top universities, but also thrive once <strong>the</strong>y reach<br />
<strong>the</strong>re. Two <strong>of</strong> our Year 12 students have been <strong>the</strong> recipients<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Cambridge Outstanding Learner Awards, “Top in<br />
<strong>the</strong> world” in Ma<strong>the</strong>matics (June 2015) and “Top in <strong>the</strong><br />
world” in Chemistry (June 2018) at Advanced Subsidiary<br />
Level.<br />
Please contact <strong>the</strong> Principal,<br />
Mrs Wigglesworth. Email: principal@bwic.tc<br />
or call +1 649 941 3333.<br />
We will be happy to give you a private tour <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> school. Website: www.bwic.tc.<br />
______________________<br />
SUPPORT NON-PROFIT<br />
EDUCATION IN TCI<br />
BWIC is a non-pr<strong>of</strong>it institution and is always in need <strong>of</strong><br />
funds to provide scholarships. We have a small number <strong>of</strong><br />
sponsors and donors, but would greatly welcome<br />
additional support. Every scholarship will provide a young<br />
Turks & Caicos Islander access to an outstanding<br />
education. The Collegiate was originally endowed by a<br />
US-registered 501(c)(3) foundation, and donations made<br />
to that foundation for onward transmission to BWIC are<br />
tax-deductible for US citizens. If you are thinking <strong>of</strong><br />
contributing to <strong>the</strong> growth and development <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks<br />
& Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> and its population, a donation to BWIC<br />
is one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> best ways you can help.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2019</strong> 15
MARTA MORTON – WWW.HARBOURCLUBVILLAS.COM
eye on <strong>the</strong> sky<br />
Opposite page: May through July is <strong>the</strong> first small peak <strong>of</strong> rainfall in <strong>the</strong> TCI, followed by <strong>the</strong> primary rainy season from October to December.<br />
Above: This mid-afternoon rain shower fell on Pumpkin Bluff Pond on North Caicos.<br />
PAUL WILKERSON<br />
Let it Rain!<br />
The annual roller coaster.<br />
By Paul Wilkerson<br />
As a tourist to <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>, I can count on one hand <strong>the</strong> number <strong>of</strong> times it has rained<br />
during our stays! Many visitors don’t realize what a commodity rainfall is, and how desperately it is<br />
needed here. When it comes to water availability, it is vitally important for <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> to get frequent rainfall.<br />
Many residents are dependent on “sky juice” captured via ro<strong>of</strong>s and gutters and stored in a cistern<br />
or “tank.” When that runs dry, <strong>the</strong>y must purchase “city” water from <strong>the</strong> desalination plant on island, as<br />
well as bottled water for <strong>the</strong>ir everyday use. Besides home use, fresh water is needed for gardens, farms<br />
and animals. In fact, water is one <strong>of</strong> life’s necessities that we take all too much for granted outside <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
Caribbean and o<strong>the</strong>r locations where it is <strong>of</strong>ten scarce.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2019</strong> 17
MARTA MORTON—WWW.HARBOURCLUBVILLAS.COM<br />
Above: The TCI’s primary rain clouds tend to develop over East and Middle Caicos, <strong>the</strong>n move towards Providenciales.<br />
Below: These maps forecasting precipitation for <strong>the</strong> Caribbean over <strong>the</strong> next several months are a product <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Caribbean Regional Climate<br />
Center. Its goal is to support <strong>the</strong> region’s socio-economic development by generating suites <strong>of</strong> climate products and services to inform riskbased<br />
decision-making in climate sensitive sectors. For more information, visit https://rcc.cimh.edu.bb<br />
Thankfully, Mo<strong>the</strong>r Nature can help bridge <strong>the</strong> gap<br />
and bring much needed fresh water to <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> that<br />
can be captured and utilized in many different ways by<br />
those who live here. Many homes across all <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong><br />
utilize cisterns, some <strong>of</strong> which can be quite large, capable<br />
<strong>of</strong> holding thousands <strong>of</strong> gallons <strong>of</strong> water. Whenever<br />
beneficial rains fall, even if for only a few minutes, <strong>the</strong>se<br />
homes can capture this fresh water through funneling<br />
systems that direct it into home “tanks.” Owners can <strong>the</strong>n<br />
utilize that water daily to take care <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>mselves and<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir households. This reduces not only <strong>the</strong> requirement<br />
for desalinated water, but it also helps keep water costs<br />
lower for owners when rainfall is abundant. And in <strong>the</strong><br />
Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>, rainfall is a very welcome product!<br />
18 www.timespub.tc
Many may be surprised to learn that some parts <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos can annually average as much as 40<br />
inches <strong>of</strong> rain or slightly higher, while o<strong>the</strong>r parts average<br />
less than 25 inches. The winners in <strong>the</strong> rainfall department<br />
are North and Middle Caicos, along with Providenciales.<br />
Those receiving <strong>the</strong> least amount <strong>of</strong> rainfall are Grand<br />
Turk, Salt Cay, South Caicos and <strong>the</strong> smaller cays to <strong>the</strong><br />
east <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir larger neighbors mentioned before.<br />
There are several reasons why this is likely to occur.<br />
In <strong>the</strong> 2018/19 Winter issue <strong>of</strong> <strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>, we<br />
talked about cloud formations and where we normally see<br />
that occur. Thanks to <strong>the</strong> larger land mass and gradual<br />
upsloping <strong>of</strong> East and Middle Caicos, we normally see<br />
our primary rain clouds develop in <strong>the</strong>se general areas.<br />
With <strong>the</strong> ever-present tradewinds coming from <strong>the</strong> east<br />
and sou<strong>the</strong>ast <strong>the</strong> majority <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> time, <strong>the</strong>se clouds will<br />
produce rainfall across North and Middle Caicos and<br />
continue on to produce rainfall over Providenciales and<br />
nearby cays. Visitors to <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> will note vegetation<br />
appear more lush across North and Middle Caicos and<br />
this is due primarily to <strong>the</strong> higher amounts <strong>of</strong> rainfall<br />
<strong>the</strong>se islands experience. Unfortunately for Grand Turk,<br />
Salt Cay and South Caicos, <strong>the</strong> terrain is ra<strong>the</strong>r flat and<br />
<strong>the</strong>refore don’t get <strong>the</strong> necessary lift in <strong>the</strong> atmosphere<br />
necessary to produce rainfall. This results in very low<br />
rainfall amounts during <strong>the</strong> year and very arid conditions<br />
normally.<br />
There are periods <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> year when <strong>the</strong> Turks &<br />
Caicos have what could be called a “rainy season.” More<br />
correctly said, it is <strong>the</strong> time when <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> experience<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir greatest amount <strong>of</strong> rainfall. TCI usually sees its first<br />
small peak between May and July. This can largely be contributed<br />
to tropical waves and disturbances that move<br />
through <strong>the</strong> Atlantic Ocean and Caribbean Sea during <strong>the</strong><br />
beginning into middle portions <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> hurricane season.<br />
In years when <strong>the</strong> hurricane season is not very active, <strong>the</strong><br />
TCI in general will see below-normal rainfall.<br />
The primary rainy season is typically from October<br />
through December, when <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> can get as much<br />
as 40% <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir entire seasonal rainfall. In this instance<br />
however, <strong>the</strong>re are two factors at play that contribute to<br />
this flux in <strong>the</strong> season. The first factor is <strong>the</strong> fact that we<br />
are still in hurricane season. Tropical waves will continue<br />
to impact <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos generally until late October<br />
or early November. Most important is <strong>the</strong> second factor,<br />
and that would be <strong>the</strong> change to nor<strong>the</strong>rn hemisphere<br />
fall and winter. As we transition into <strong>the</strong>se seasons, <strong>the</strong><br />
jet stream—which is responsible for moving low pressure<br />
systems across <strong>the</strong> United States—begins to sink south<br />
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M Page 1<br />
into <strong>the</strong> lower portions <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> US and at times well down<br />
into <strong>the</strong> Gulf <strong>of</strong> Mexico. This allows trailing cold fronts to<br />
routinely swing through <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> during this time. This<br />
also greatly increases <strong>the</strong> chances <strong>of</strong> rainfall. Naturally<br />
once we exit hurricane season and are dependent solely<br />
on systems from <strong>the</strong> US, <strong>the</strong> average rainfall falls <strong>of</strong>f once<br />
again for January through April with much drier conditions<br />
as a result.<br />
As tourists, naturally our instinct tells us we don’t<br />
want to see rainfall while we are visiting. I propose we<br />
change our thinking. Based on what you have read here,<br />
my hope is that on your next adventure to <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>, if<br />
you experience rain, take a moment to celebrate with <strong>the</strong><br />
Belongers. While that rainfall may cause a small inconvenience<br />
in your day, it is providing life sustainment for<br />
those who call <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> home! a<br />
Paul Wilkerson is an American meteorologist and tourist<br />
who frequents <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>. Along with<br />
his wife and two daughters, <strong>the</strong> Wilkersons stay actively<br />
engaged with Islanders throughout <strong>the</strong> year with his<br />
Facebook page Turks and Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> Wea<strong>the</strong>r Info.<br />
DISTRIBUTOR DISTRIBUTOR FOR FOR EVINRUDE && MERCURY MERCURY<br />
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Bringing wea<strong>the</strong>r education to schools<br />
The Turks and Caicos Wea<strong>the</strong>r Facebook page is<br />
proud to announce that we are working to bring<br />
wea<strong>the</strong>r technology to <strong>the</strong> schools <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks &<br />
Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>. During <strong>the</strong> last two months, <strong>the</strong><br />
wea<strong>the</strong>r page launched an initiative to provide<br />
wea<strong>the</strong>r stations to schools, with <strong>the</strong> goal <strong>of</strong> placing<br />
a wea<strong>the</strong>r station into each school on each island.<br />
While this will take some time, I am pleased to<br />
report that as <strong>of</strong> this writing, four wea<strong>the</strong>r stations<br />
have been delivered to <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> and are being distributed<br />
to a high school on Providenciales, a high<br />
school on North Caicos, <strong>the</strong> primary school on South<br />
Caicos and <strong>the</strong> primary school on Grand Turk.<br />
With Hurricane Irma still on everyone’s mind,<br />
now is a great time to work with local children to<br />
get <strong>the</strong>m interested in wea<strong>the</strong>r and how it impacts<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir lives. Through this outreach, students can learn<br />
to track wea<strong>the</strong>r conditions using <strong>the</strong>se stations and<br />
can work to build local climatology that may become<br />
useful in <strong>the</strong> years to come for seasonal impacts.<br />
We would like to thank Tito and Atekah Seymour<br />
for being <strong>the</strong> hands and feet on <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>. They<br />
have worked tirelessly to ensure shipment and safe<br />
arrival <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> wea<strong>the</strong>r stations and coordinated with<br />
<strong>the</strong> schools to have <strong>the</strong>m delivered or picked up.<br />
We would also like to thank all <strong>of</strong> our donors on <strong>the</strong><br />
wea<strong>the</strong>r page! Without <strong>the</strong>ir donations, this venture<br />
would not be possible.<br />
If you would like to help us bring wea<strong>the</strong>r stations<br />
to <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>, please contact<br />
Paul or Brande Wilkerson at pwilkerson74@yahoo.<br />
com to discuss how you can be a part <strong>of</strong> impacting<br />
<strong>the</strong> lives <strong>of</strong> TCI children. a<br />
Tito Seymour presents a wea<strong>the</strong>r station to Vice Principal Beverly<br />
Malcom at <strong>the</strong> Ira Stubbs Primary School on South Caicos.<br />
20 www.timespub.tc
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MARTA MORTON – WWW.HARBOURCLUBVILLAS.COM
feature<br />
Opposite page and above: Conch is particularly vulnerable to overexploitation, due to its slow mobility, habitat in shallow, accessible water<br />
and relatively slow growth and reproductive cycles.<br />
MARTA MORTON – WWW.HARBOURCLUBVILLAS.COM<br />
It just wouldn’t be <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos without conch. Who hasn’t visited without sampling a conch salad,<br />
typically made with meat fresh from <strong>the</strong> shell, or a bowl <strong>of</strong> conch chowder, each concoction a reflection<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> cook’s creativity? Whe<strong>the</strong>r cracked conch, steamed conch, conch ‘n’ rice, or conch fritters, <strong>the</strong><br />
ubiquitous ingredient is a Turks & Caicos tradition, as are photos and artwork <strong>of</strong> and crafts made from<br />
its pearly pink shell.<br />
Conched Out?<br />
The clock is running out on TCI’s conch fishery.<br />
By Kathleen Wood<br />
But all is not rosy when it comes to this beloved mollusk. The collapse <strong>of</strong> conch fisheries throughout<br />
<strong>the</strong> region serves as a precautionary tale for TCI’s compromised conch.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2019</strong> 23
Earlier in <strong>2019</strong>, research spanning decades in <strong>the</strong><br />
Bahamas concluded that without significant intervention<br />
and changes to fishing policy, <strong>the</strong> Bahamian queen conch<br />
Lobatus gigas fishery will collapse within 10–15 years<br />
(Allan W Stoner, Davis, & Kough, <strong>2019</strong>). Conch populations<br />
in legal fishing grounds in <strong>the</strong> Bahamas have declined by<br />
as much as 90%. Even more alarming are declines in protected<br />
areas, where conch are aging and dying out, as<br />
younger recruits are not moving in to replace <strong>the</strong>m.<br />
The Bahamas are just <strong>the</strong> latest in a series <strong>of</strong> conch<br />
industry collapses that have been occurring across <strong>the</strong><br />
species’ range for <strong>the</strong> past few decades. In Florida, <strong>the</strong><br />
conch fishery collapsed more than 40 years ago and has<br />
still not recovered. In 1992, conch was listed under <strong>the</strong><br />
Convention on Trade in Endangered Species (CITES) due<br />
to concerns regarding stock depletion from overfishing<br />
and inadequate management. Never<strong>the</strong>less, stocks continued<br />
to decline and by 2004, trade was suspended in<br />
<strong>the</strong> Dominican Republic, Haiti, Honduras, Antigua and<br />
Barbuda, Barbados, Dominica and Trinidad and Tobago,<br />
based on evidence <strong>of</strong> declining stock and/or lack <strong>of</strong> effective<br />
management in those countries.<br />
Conch is particularly vulnerable to overexploitation,<br />
due to its slow mobility, habitat in shallow, accessible<br />
water and relatively slow growth and reproductive cycles.<br />
Under CITES, a country such as <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong><br />
can only export conch if <strong>the</strong>y can demonstrate that such<br />
export is not detrimental to <strong>the</strong> survival <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> species<br />
(Theile, 2005; Truelove et al., 2017). TCI can no longer<br />
honestly make a no-detriment statement to CITES.<br />
The Bahamas findings should set <strong>of</strong>f alarm bells in <strong>the</strong><br />
Turks & Caicos, where similar patterns <strong>of</strong> declining conch<br />
stocks over <strong>the</strong> past 10 years indicate that TCI’s conch<br />
fishery is also in peril. Since 2008, TCI’s conch catch has<br />
been reduced by more than 50%. Once-abundant, shallow<br />
water stocks have been all but fished out and fisherfolk<br />
are now forced to move into deeper water, fur<strong>the</strong>r <strong>of</strong>fshore,<br />
in order to find enough conch to meet a burgeoning<br />
demand. Unlike <strong>the</strong> Bahamas, TCI does not have meticulously<br />
recorded data over <strong>the</strong> same time frame from which<br />
to draw conclusive evidence. Unfortunately, this lack <strong>of</strong><br />
data has been used as an excuse to maintain <strong>the</strong> status<br />
quo; however, business as usual, at this time when resolute<br />
action is needed, will likely result in <strong>the</strong> collapse and<br />
loss <strong>of</strong> TCI’s iconic fishery in a relatively short period <strong>of</strong><br />
time. The region is full <strong>of</strong> examples that serve as harbingers<br />
<strong>of</strong> this fate.<br />
In 2006, a sweeping assessment <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> world’s<br />
fisheries stocks revealed a disturbing trend: 63% <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
world’s fisheries were being over-fished (Worm et al.,<br />
2009). Six years later, <strong>the</strong> trend was worsening. Assessed<br />
were 4,713 fisheries worldwide, representing 78% <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
world’s fish catch. Of <strong>the</strong>se, only 32% were found to be<br />
in good biological condition (Costello et al., 2016). Both<br />
studies specifically concluded that <strong>the</strong> “business as usual”<br />
approach to fisheries management was largely culpable<br />
for global fisheries collapse and that without significant<br />
alterations to <strong>the</strong> status quo, <strong>the</strong> trend <strong>of</strong> collapse will<br />
undoubtedly continue.<br />
Numbers don’t lie<br />
As with many <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> world’s collapsing fisheries, <strong>the</strong> TCI’s<br />
management <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> conch fishery relies on a quota system,<br />
based on <strong>the</strong> determination <strong>of</strong> maximum sustained<br />
yield (MSY). In o<strong>the</strong>r words, each year a number is determined<br />
that, in <strong>the</strong>ory, allows for <strong>the</strong> maximum amount <strong>of</strong><br />
conch that can be taken and naturally replaced through<br />
breeding. The use <strong>of</strong> MSY has been <strong>the</strong> standard for most<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> world’s fisheries for decades; however, a comprehensive<br />
study <strong>of</strong> fisheries in ten large marine ecosystems<br />
determined that at fishing rates equal to 90% <strong>of</strong> MSY, at<br />
least 50% <strong>of</strong> targeted fish stocks were collapsing (Worm et<br />
al., 2009). TCI has been fishing conch at rates above 90%<br />
MSY for at least 15 years.<br />
Even in an ideal world, where MSY is accurately determined<br />
with data from visual surveying <strong>of</strong> conch stocks<br />
in <strong>the</strong> field, fishermen cannot necessarily safely remove<br />
close to <strong>the</strong> MSY figure and be assured that similar numbers<br />
will be harvestable into <strong>the</strong> future. TCI does not have<br />
accurate visual survey data, although a partial survey was<br />
conducted in 2012–2014, which suggested that TCI’s MSY<br />
for conch hovers around 600,000 pounds. Never<strong>the</strong>less,<br />
TCI established a quota <strong>of</strong> 820,000 pounds <strong>of</strong> landed,<br />
unprocessed meat, including 500,000 pounds for export<br />
and 320,000 pounds for local consumption.<br />
A recent study looking at fisheries landings in<br />
TCI found that actual conch catch is at least two times<br />
higher than what is being reported (Ulman, Burke, Hind,<br />
Ramdeen, & Zeller, 2016), and that local consumption<br />
alone probably equates to <strong>the</strong> entire quota. This stark<br />
reality indicates that conch in TCI has been over-fished<br />
for several years. Although many people in TCI blame <strong>the</strong><br />
decline <strong>of</strong> conch stocks on hurricanes, <strong>the</strong> data demonstrate<br />
that over-fishing is <strong>the</strong> more likely culprit.<br />
The problems with policy<br />
TCI currently regulates <strong>the</strong> conch fishery under <strong>the</strong><br />
Fisheries Protection Ordinance (FPO) and National Parks<br />
24 www.timespub.tc
Ordinance (NPO) in several ways:<br />
• A quota system limits <strong>the</strong> amount <strong>of</strong> allowable catch.<br />
• A closed season for export reduces demand from<br />
July 15–November 15.<br />
• Restrictions on size (total shell length <strong>of</strong> 7 inches,<br />
uncleaned meat weight <strong>of</strong> 8 ounces and filet weight<br />
<strong>of</strong> 4 ounces) reduces <strong>the</strong> taking <strong>of</strong> juveniles.<br />
• Designation <strong>of</strong> closed areas protects critical juvenile<br />
habitats and areas for spawning and reproduction.<br />
• A prohibition against using scuba and o<strong>the</strong>r<br />
artificial breathing gear limits <strong>the</strong> amount <strong>of</strong> conch<br />
that can be harvested at depth.<br />
While TCI’s laws and policies to regulate conch were<br />
considered standard when <strong>the</strong>y were developed many<br />
years ago, as with most dated fisheries policies <strong>the</strong>y have<br />
not been sufficient to prevent stocks from declining.<br />
The quota system is inherently flawed because it<br />
doesn’t take into consideration <strong>the</strong> myriad environmental<br />
factors that affect species populations. Healthy habitats,<br />
relationships with o<strong>the</strong>r species, and protection during<br />
vulnerable breeding and juvenile life stages are essential<br />
in determining whe<strong>the</strong>r a species thrives or fails. Even<br />
when fisheries are well-regulated, with up-to-date stock<br />
assessments to determine MSY, many are collapsing.<br />
Quota systems are now considered outdated and ineffective<br />
on <strong>the</strong>ir own, and contemporary fisheries scientists<br />
now propose an ecosystem approach to fisheries and<br />
o<strong>the</strong>r conservation management. This takes into consideration<br />
not only <strong>the</strong> amount <strong>of</strong> a species to be harvested,<br />
but also <strong>the</strong> protection <strong>of</strong> habitat and integration <strong>of</strong> each<br />
Cays Winter <strong>Times</strong> 2018_Layout 1 11/14/18 10:30 AM Page 1<br />
species’ unique life history.<br />
The current quota for TCI is arbitrary and is not based<br />
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on any actual data. Data that has been collected suggests<br />
that conch consumed locally are already at or above MSY.<br />
How many conch are <strong>the</strong>re in TCI? Where are <strong>the</strong>y breeding?<br />
What ages are <strong>the</strong>y? Where are <strong>the</strong> important juvenile<br />
habitats located? We cannot possibly determine how conch<br />
can be sustainably harvested without this information.<br />
Closed seasons can be a highly effective means <strong>of</strong><br />
protecting fisheries stocks and are an important component<br />
<strong>of</strong> an ecosystem approach to management. Typically,<br />
a season closes during <strong>the</strong> targeted species’ breeding season.<br />
For TCI’s lobster Panulirus argus fishery, <strong>the</strong> closed<br />
season falls roughly between April and September, which<br />
corresponds nicely with <strong>the</strong> time <strong>of</strong> year when most lobsters<br />
are spawning. The conch closed season from mid-July<br />
to mid-November unfortunately does not correspond well<br />
with <strong>the</strong> conch’s breeding patterns, which typically also<br />
occur during <strong>the</strong> months from April to September. Conch<br />
are currently being fully harvested during peak breeding<br />
season, which can only have extremely detrimental effects<br />
on <strong>the</strong> species’ capacity to replenish itself. Fur<strong>the</strong>rmore,<br />
TCI’s closed season is only closed to export. We now know<br />
that <strong>the</strong> bulk <strong>of</strong> TCI’s conch catch goes to local consumption;<br />
<strong>the</strong>refore, a season closed to export alone does little<br />
to serve sustainable conch management interests.<br />
Size restrictions are <strong>of</strong>ten used in fisheries management<br />
to allow species to reach breeding age before<br />
<strong>the</strong>y are harvested. The hypo<strong>the</strong>sis is that minimum size<br />
restrictions will allow many individuals to make it to reproductive<br />
age and <strong>the</strong>reby replace those harvested. In <strong>the</strong><br />
case <strong>of</strong> conch, it has been known for many years that most<br />
size measurements cannot be correlated to reproductive<br />
maturity (A. Stoner, Mueller, Brown-Peterson, Davis, &<br />
Booker, 2012; A. W. Stoner & Ray, 1993). Sexually maturity<br />
can be reached when conch are as small or smaller<br />
than <strong>the</strong> seven inches stipulated under TCI law or when<br />
<strong>the</strong>y significantly larger. A better estimate <strong>of</strong> sexual<br />
maturity is obtained by measuring shell lip thickness, and<br />
research has shown that a conch shell lip with a thickness<br />
<strong>of</strong> 15 mm correlates to a 50% probability that <strong>the</strong> conch<br />
will be sexually mature, with males maturing earlier than<br />
females (Allan W Stoner et al., <strong>2019</strong>). TCI’s size regulations<br />
for queen conch are <strong>the</strong>refore biologically dubious,<br />
and a majority are probably being fished out before <strong>the</strong>y<br />
are sexually mature.<br />
Protected areas that are closed to fishing and o<strong>the</strong>r<br />
harmful activities are critical components <strong>of</strong> a sensible<br />
ecosystem approach to fisheries management. In order<br />
to safeguard a species during vulnerable life phases, habitat<br />
for juveniles and spawning should be protected. In<br />
26 www.timespub.tc
TCI, only one protected area—<strong>the</strong> East Harbour Lobster<br />
and Conch Reserve, located <strong>of</strong>f South Caicos—has been<br />
specifically designated for <strong>the</strong> conservation <strong>of</strong> conch.<br />
Unfortunately, <strong>the</strong> designation <strong>of</strong> this area allows for <strong>the</strong><br />
harvest <strong>of</strong> up to 10 conch by an individual for personal<br />
consumption (Fisheries Protection Ordinance Regulation<br />
13). This loophole has led to <strong>the</strong> complete depopulation<br />
<strong>of</strong> conch within <strong>the</strong> reserve, rendering it practically useless.<br />
Ano<strong>the</strong>r important site for conch is located between<br />
Little Water Cay and Mangrove Cay. This area is an important<br />
juvenile habitat for queen conch and densities <strong>of</strong> up<br />
to 1.1/m 2 (<strong>the</strong> highest recorded in TCI) were previously<br />
recorded (Pardee, 2008). The dredging <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Leeward<br />
Channel and dumping <strong>of</strong> spoil (Star Island) in <strong>the</strong> middle<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> area has significantly degraded <strong>the</strong> habitat, and a<br />
subsequent recent study recorded densities reduced by a<br />
factor <strong>of</strong> four at this site. The area is also frequented by<br />
tour operators and has been fur<strong>the</strong>r depopulated from<br />
illegal souvenir collection by unaware visitors.<br />
O<strong>the</strong>r important sites for queen conch include spawning<br />
aggregation areas <strong>of</strong>f Molasses Reef, <strong>the</strong> Fish Cays and<br />
West Sand Spit, and juvenile habitats within tidal creeks<br />
on East Caicos. These habitats all remain unprotected and<br />
fishing pressure continues, all but ensuring <strong>the</strong> species’<br />
eventual demise in TCI.<br />
On a positive note, a progressive law under <strong>the</strong> FPO<br />
[Regulation 9(1c)] prohibits <strong>the</strong> use <strong>of</strong> scuba or o<strong>the</strong>r<br />
artificial breathing devices while fishing in TCI. Such prohibition<br />
limits <strong>the</strong> depth at which fishers can catch conch,<br />
since <strong>the</strong>y are harvested via free diving. It has long been<br />
assumed that TCI’s unreachable “deep water stocks”<br />
allowed for <strong>the</strong> replenishment <strong>of</strong> shallower fishing areas<br />
on <strong>the</strong> Caicos Banks, and <strong>the</strong>re is likely some veracity to<br />
this belief. Unfortunately, with shallow water stocks now<br />
depleted, fisherfolk are venturing into deeper and deeper<br />
water in search <strong>of</strong> conch to supply <strong>the</strong> country’s hefty<br />
demand. Exacerbating <strong>the</strong> situation is illegal fishing by<br />
poachers from nearby Hispaniola. Dominican poachers<br />
notoriously use underwater artificial breathing hookah<br />
apparatuses, specifically to target <strong>the</strong> deep-water stocks.<br />
These stocks are <strong>the</strong> last vestiges <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> fishery in TCI,<br />
and once <strong>the</strong>y have been fished out, no recovery will be<br />
possible.<br />
What can be done?<br />
When this article is published, <strong>the</strong> conch fishery will be<br />
closed to export for <strong>the</strong> closed season. Prior to <strong>the</strong> opening<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> fishery, several steps should urgently be taken:<br />
Hugh final_Layout 1 5/29/17 1:15 PM Page 1<br />
P<br />
E<br />
R<br />
S<br />
HUGH G. O’NEILL<br />
&<br />
ATTORNEYSN<br />
AT<br />
L AW<br />
P.O. Box 267<br />
Hibernian House<br />
1136 Leeward Highway<br />
Providenciales<br />
Turks and Caicos <strong>Islands</strong><br />
B.W.I.<br />
Tel 649-946-4514<br />
Fax 649-946-4955<br />
Email hugh.oneill@hgoneillco.tc<br />
C<br />
CO. O<br />
N<br />
F<br />
I<br />
D<br />
E<br />
N<br />
T<br />
I<br />
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L<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2019</strong> 27
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1. A comprehensive visual survey should be conducted<br />
immediately in order to establish an up-to-date population<br />
baseline and stock characteristics.<br />
2. Export should be discontinued until such a time that it<br />
can be determined via factual evidence that such export is<br />
not detrimental to <strong>the</strong> species, as per CITES requirements.<br />
3. The closed season should be moved to April 1– August<br />
31 in order to be more in sync with conch’s spawning<br />
activities. The closed season should also be closed to local<br />
exploitation, so that no conch can be harvested during <strong>the</strong><br />
closed season at all.<br />
4. New size regulations, which use shell lip thickness<br />
(minimum 15mm), ra<strong>the</strong>r than overall shell length, should<br />
be implemented. The regulations should also require that<br />
conch are landed in <strong>the</strong>ir shell for enforcement purposes.<br />
5. Spawning aggregation sites and juvenile habitats<br />
should be comprehensively identified and protected from<br />
exploitation and degradation.<br />
6. Enforcement willingness and capacity to stop illegal<br />
poaching and o<strong>the</strong>r infractions <strong>of</strong> regulations must be<br />
improved. DECR needs <strong>the</strong> staff, vessels and willingness<br />
to accomplish its mandate.<br />
7. Government should develop economic support incentives<br />
for fisherfolk who will be disadvantaged by new<br />
policies. This could include alternative employment in<br />
infrastructure projects, payment for assistance with visual<br />
surveys and o<strong>the</strong>r needed scientific research and training<br />
for <strong>the</strong> development <strong>of</strong> alternative livelihoods.<br />
Queen conch has been a cornerstone <strong>of</strong> TCI’s economy<br />
and culture since Lucayan people arrived on <strong>the</strong>se<br />
shores more than 1,000 years ago. In <strong>the</strong> 19th and early<br />
20th centuries, dried conch was a principal trade good,<br />
transported in traditional sailing sloops and sold in nearby<br />
Hispaniola. After <strong>the</strong> advent <strong>of</strong> flash freezing and cold<br />
storage, <strong>the</strong> industry blossomed into one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> country’s<br />
leading exports, contributing millions <strong>of</strong> dollars annually<br />
to TCI’s economy.<br />
TCI’s “business as usual” model for managing conch<br />
will result in <strong>the</strong> collapse <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> fishery in a relatively short<br />
space <strong>of</strong> time. Collapsed conch fisheries across <strong>the</strong> region<br />
demonstrate that once conch is fished out, it does not<br />
return. TCI’s government and fisheries managers can<br />
no longer plead ignorance. We know a crisis is at hand<br />
and only immediate and decisive action will protect what<br />
is left <strong>of</strong> TCI’s legendary fishery. We can but hope that<br />
this administration will be <strong>the</strong> one that saves TCI’s conch<br />
ra<strong>the</strong>r than letting it become a sad and preventable footnote<br />
in history. The clock is ticking. a<br />
28 www.timespub.tc
RAMONA SETTLE<br />
Immediate and decisive action is required to preserve TCI’s iconic conch fishery for future generations.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2019</strong> 29
creature feature<br />
Is it a sponge . . . or a Frogfish? The tiny eyes and mouth give it away.<br />
A hidden gem on <strong>the</strong> reefs <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos<br />
<strong>Islands</strong>, <strong>the</strong> Longlure Frogfish (Antennarius multiocellatus)<br />
is a demersal (living close to <strong>the</strong> sea floor),<br />
piscivorous (fish-eating) species that employs crypsis<br />
(ability to avoid being seen) to avoid predation and stalk<br />
its prey at <strong>the</strong> same time. It has a prickly, usually brightly<br />
colored skin (even yellow, red, pink or blue) and is <strong>of</strong>ten<br />
adorned with fleshy or filamentous spinules.<br />
A Master <strong>of</strong> Illusion<br />
Learning about <strong>the</strong> fascinating Frogfish.<br />
By Brian Heagney, B.Sc Marine Biology ~ Photos By Sabine Frank<br />
The Frogfish very effectively mimics a harmless invertebrate<br />
sponge on <strong>the</strong> reef. Ra<strong>the</strong>r than regularly visiting<br />
a cleaning station to be groomed as most o<strong>the</strong>r reef<br />
fishes do, <strong>the</strong> Frogfish actually encourages algal growth<br />
on its body to fur<strong>the</strong>r complement its camouflage. This<br />
amazing fish can also change its color to match <strong>the</strong> surroundings,<br />
a biological skill called mimesis.<br />
All in all, this multi-faceted approach to camouflage<br />
makes <strong>the</strong> Frogfish a real master <strong>of</strong> illusion (and<br />
incredibly difficult to spot). The skin and its stomach are<br />
also extremely distensible, allowing this greedy critter<br />
to engulf prey twice its size. Even more remarkably, it<br />
catches its prey using a “fishing rod.”<br />
The first spine <strong>of</strong> its dorsal fin is highly modified into<br />
a long fishing rod (illicium) that is tipped with a delicate,<br />
fea<strong>the</strong>ry lure (esca). This little lure is wriggled enticingly<br />
above <strong>the</strong> mouth as a bait to attract o<strong>the</strong>r fishes that<br />
are <strong>the</strong>n swallowed whole, in a nearly imperceptible<br />
split-second motion, as <strong>the</strong> Frogfish projects its jaw up<br />
and forward, creating a vacuum to suck its victim inside.<br />
30 www.timespub.tc
The Frogfish’s pectoral<br />
fins are also modified to have<br />
an elbow joint, allowing it to<br />
strangely plod around <strong>the</strong> reef<br />
on webbed feet ra<strong>the</strong>r than<br />
swimming. Like a lion, <strong>the</strong><br />
Frogfish likes to stay close to<br />
its prey and will normally stay<br />
in <strong>the</strong> same area for several<br />
weeks at a time when <strong>the</strong> fishing<br />
is good, so once spotted<br />
you can return to try and search<br />
for it again.<br />
If a prey fish should not be<br />
attracted to its lure, <strong>the</strong> Frogfish<br />
will actually stalk it instead and<br />
it can suck its victims down <strong>the</strong><br />
hatch from one body length<br />
away. To top it <strong>of</strong>f, Frogfish are<br />
jet propelled—water sucked in<br />
through <strong>the</strong> mouth is expelled<br />
through small, circular gill<br />
openings behind <strong>the</strong> “legs” and<br />
this propulsion is used to hop<br />
The Frogfish actually encourages algal growth on its body to fur<strong>the</strong>r complement its camouflage.<br />
around <strong>the</strong> reef in <strong>the</strong> fashion<br />
<strong>of</strong> its namesake.<br />
This unique and interesting little fish is a magnificently<br />
rare highlight on any dive and if you can find one<br />
it is extremely rewarding. The last one spotted in Grand<br />
Turk was at 30 feet deep on <strong>the</strong> Chief Minister’s (South)<br />
dive site. There are a number <strong>of</strong> species <strong>of</strong> Frogfish that<br />
could be encountered in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos, including <strong>the</strong><br />
Longlure, Splitlure, Dwarf, Ocellated and Sargassumfish.<br />
The most fantastic member <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> family globally (for me)<br />
is a toss-up between <strong>the</strong> Giant and <strong>the</strong> Hairy.<br />
Have a closer look at <strong>the</strong> sponges on your next dive<br />
because one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> many amazing wonders <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> underwater<br />
world might just be staring right back at you. a<br />
A native <strong>of</strong> Ireland, Brian moved to <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos<br />
with his wife Sabine in 2016 where <strong>the</strong>y opened <strong>the</strong><br />
Humpback Dive Shack on Grand Turk. Brian received his<br />
degree in Marine Biology from <strong>the</strong> Queens University <strong>of</strong><br />
Belfast in 2001 and has been traveling <strong>the</strong> globe as a<br />
PADI Master Scuba Diver Trainer and underwater photographer<br />
since 2003. He holds an additional qualification<br />
in Tropical Habitat Conservation, is a certified whale and<br />
dolphin guide, a qualified boat captain and a self-taught<br />
outboard engine mechanic.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2019</strong> 31
green pages<br />
newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & coastal resources<br />
head <strong>of</strong>fice: church folly, grand turk, tel 649 946 2801 • fax 649 946 1895<br />
• astwood street, south caicos, tel 649 946 3306 • fax 946 3710<br />
• national environmental centre, lower bight road, providenciales<br />
parks division, tel 649 941 5122 • fax 649 946 4793<br />
fisheries division, tel 649 946 4017 • fax 649 946 4793<br />
email environment@gov.tc or dema.tci@gmail.com • web https://www.gov.tc/decr/<br />
This humpback whale calf is breaching in <strong>the</strong> waters <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks Bank.<br />
“Fingerprinting” Whales<br />
Using whale sightings by citizen scientists in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />
There are few places in <strong>the</strong> world like <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> where humans can enter <strong>the</strong> water and<br />
photograph some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most spectacular, charismatic, and important animals on <strong>the</strong> planet. The Marine<br />
and Coastal Ecology Research Center (MCERC) is working closely with TCI residents, visitors, and whale<br />
watch operators and <strong>the</strong>ir guests who are enthusiastically contributing important data through citizen<br />
science initiatives.<br />
By Cathy E. Bacon M.Sc., Mithriel M. MacKay Ph.D., and Katharine Hart M.Sc.<br />
Photos By Katharine Hart, Deep Blue Charters, Grand Turk<br />
32 www.timespub.tc
green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & coastal resources<br />
Photographs <strong>of</strong> humpback whales Megaptera novaeangliae<br />
(and dolphins!) can provide a great deal <strong>of</strong><br />
information. There are two primary catalogs for humpback<br />
whale images: HappyWhale (happywhale.com) and<br />
<strong>the</strong> North Atlantic Humpback Whale Catalogue (www.coa.<br />
edu/allied-whale/research/). Scientists from all over <strong>the</strong><br />
globe contribute images to <strong>the</strong>se catalogs in addition to<br />
keeping <strong>the</strong>ir own smaller catalogs specific to <strong>the</strong>ir areas.<br />
Because <strong>the</strong> images are curated by dedicated and skilled<br />
scientists, <strong>the</strong> unique pigment patterns on <strong>the</strong> underside<br />
<strong>of</strong> whales’ tails (flukes), scars, and o<strong>the</strong>r natural markings<br />
can be used in scientific investigations.<br />
The pigment patterns on <strong>the</strong> flukes are a “fingerprint”<br />
and make it possible to match <strong>the</strong> images and determine<br />
how far within <strong>the</strong> Caribbean <strong>the</strong> whales travel, where<br />
<strong>the</strong>y have been sighted on <strong>the</strong>ir feeding grounds in much<br />
higher latitudes, which o<strong>the</strong>r whales <strong>the</strong>y are seen traveling<br />
and mating with throughout <strong>the</strong> North Atlantic, and<br />
so much more.<br />
Citizen Scientists (this could be you) are submitting<br />
snapshots and videos <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> humpback whales underwater.<br />
Social media makes it easy to submit photos to<br />
MCERC and, in turn, creates a forum for MCERC’s senior<br />
marine biology staff to share information about <strong>the</strong>se<br />
charismatic animals.<br />
The FaceBook group, “Turks and Caicos <strong>Islands</strong><br />
Humpback Whale Sightings” (www.facebook.com/<br />
TCIWhales/), was created and is maintained by Cathy<br />
Bacon. Cathy is a Senior Research Associate and co-author<br />
<strong>of</strong> multiple publications based on <strong>the</strong> marine<br />
mammal research studies with MCERC. Cathy communicates<br />
directly with <strong>the</strong> citizen scientists and shares <strong>the</strong><br />
exciting matches that <strong>the</strong>ir contributions glean. The TCI<br />
Humpback Whale Catalog, maintained by MCERC, submits<br />
images on behalf <strong>of</strong> citizen scientist photographers and<br />
<strong>the</strong> research team to <strong>the</strong> larger repositories. They can be<br />
viewed globally by scientists studying <strong>the</strong>se species.<br />
This past winter (2018/19) alone <strong>the</strong> citizen scientists,<br />
including whale watch operators, have provided<br />
images that were matched to Samaná Bay or Silver Bank,<br />
Dominican Republic (Joanne Buddle, Alcides Falanghe,<br />
Marks and scars observed in photographs are used by researchers<br />
to identify individual whales in different locations over multiple seasons.<br />
Humpback Dive Shack), Newfoundland (Pat Mezzina,<br />
Joanne Buddle, Ines Moosman, Beth Grassette, Humpback<br />
Dive Shack), and <strong>the</strong> Gulf <strong>of</strong> Maine (Sean Brady, Jim Hayes,<br />
Paula Faiferman, Dave Dietze, Jay Lawson, Amy Looby,<br />
Shelley Jensen, Kell Talbot, Katharine Hart—Deep Blue<br />
Charters) helping MCERC to understand movement patterns<br />
and behaviors <strong>of</strong> migrating whales throughout <strong>the</strong><br />
North Atlantic. The data captured by people enjoying<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir experience in <strong>the</strong> TCI is combined with <strong>the</strong> science<br />
team’s data and <strong>the</strong>n shared with o<strong>the</strong>r researchers<br />
through publication in peer-reviewed journals and presentations.<br />
The photographers are always acknowledged<br />
as a valued part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> MCERC science team.<br />
Whales, dolphins, and porpoises (cetaceans) in <strong>the</strong><br />
TCI are not well studied. Whales and dolphins are <strong>of</strong>ten<br />
seen from land and vessels throughout <strong>the</strong> TCI and while<br />
<strong>the</strong> tourism industry (from large cruise ships to small tour<br />
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Images <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> tail fluke <strong>of</strong> humpback whales are useful for identification.<br />
This young humpback whale (above) has a “firework” on its<br />
fluke, making it easy to identify throughout <strong>the</strong> <strong>2019</strong> season.<br />
operators) recognizes <strong>the</strong> TCI as an attractive destination<br />
for visitors, <strong>the</strong> impact to local cetacean populations<br />
is unknown. There is preliminary evidence suggesting<br />
<strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos is a significant migratory destination<br />
for North Atlantic humpback whales, as well as o<strong>the</strong>r<br />
resident cetaceans. Year-round, Cetaceans have been<br />
sighted nearshore and <strong>of</strong>fshore, including bottlenose dolphin<br />
(Tursiops truncatus), deep-diving <strong>of</strong>fshore species<br />
(sperm whales [Physeter macrocephalus], beaked whales)<br />
and shallow swimming nearshore species (pilot whales<br />
[Globicephala sp.], dolphins).<br />
MCERC is dedicated to providing research and education<br />
opportunities aimed at increasing an investment<br />
in conservation and preservation <strong>of</strong> healthy marine and<br />
coastal ecosystems. Collaborations with people among<br />
<strong>the</strong> TCI is a valuable resource for promoting interest,<br />
ga<strong>the</strong>ring information, and maintaining an understanding<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> elements most important to residents.<br />
MCERC supports scientific research <strong>of</strong> marine habitats<br />
and encourages participation <strong>of</strong> investigators with<br />
a similar mission. In 2017, MCERC began <strong>the</strong>ir primary<br />
project in <strong>the</strong> TCI in collaboration with <strong>the</strong> Department <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> Environment & Coastal Resources (DECR), investigating<br />
<strong>the</strong> humpback whales wintering <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> Turks Bank.<br />
Humpback whales migrate from <strong>the</strong> North Atlantic feeding<br />
grounds to lower latitudes throughout <strong>the</strong> Caribbean<br />
during <strong>the</strong>ir winter breeding season (January–April).<br />
An unexpected, yet incredibly important, benefit<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> TCI Humpback Whale Citizen Science Project has<br />
been <strong>the</strong> increased awareness <strong>of</strong> global concerns regarding<br />
tourism and its impact on <strong>the</strong> humpback whales that<br />
are so loved throughout <strong>the</strong> Caribbean. There has been<br />
a great deal <strong>of</strong> misunderstanding that visitors are solely<br />
focused on getting as close as possible to <strong>the</strong> whales.<br />
Tour boat operators in <strong>the</strong> TCI have access to feedback<br />
from tourists and researchers through <strong>the</strong> FaceBook<br />
group which is highlighting two very interesting points for<br />
this economically important industry in <strong>the</strong> archipelago.<br />
First, tourists are more concerned with <strong>the</strong> well-being<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> whales (especially moms and newborn calves)<br />
than getting too close to whales. Guests seek out whale<br />
watch operators that have responsible approaches to <strong>the</strong><br />
whales, and shy away from <strong>the</strong> aggressive operators who<br />
are perceived as putting whales in danger. This means<br />
that a tour boat operator who chooses <strong>the</strong> best interest<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> whales over getting too close to <strong>the</strong> whales will<br />
make more money through positive reviews and tips by<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir guests! The FaceBook group has been an effective<br />
way to communicate <strong>the</strong> best practice for operators and<br />
<strong>the</strong> positive response from guests.<br />
The second exciting outcome from <strong>the</strong> TCI Humpback<br />
Whale Citizen Science Project has been <strong>the</strong> following by<br />
people who love <strong>the</strong> TCI from near and far and want to<br />
stay connected to <strong>the</strong> activity <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> humpback whales.<br />
It will be interesting to see if people visit TCI as a result<br />
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Did you know . . . ?<br />
Wheeland Pond information signs<br />
• Whale “poop” primes <strong>the</strong><br />
food chain in all oceans?<br />
• Humpback whales are increasing in numbers<br />
throughout <strong>the</strong> North Atlantic?<br />
• Whales that die and fall to <strong>the</strong> bottom <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
ocean create an entirely isolated mini ecosystem?<br />
• Only male humpback whales sing, but we still do<br />
not understand why?<br />
• The Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> are a “highway” to<br />
<strong>the</strong> rest <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Caribbean, and back to <strong>the</strong> nor<strong>the</strong>rn<br />
areas?<br />
If you want to learn about <strong>the</strong>se topics and more,<br />
join <strong>the</strong> Citizen Scientists and <strong>the</strong> MCERC Senior<br />
Scientists on our FaceBook page and let’s chat! a<br />
<strong>of</strong> reading about this research project that includes <strong>the</strong><br />
people who know <strong>the</strong> country best. The membership to<br />
<strong>the</strong> group is steadily growing.<br />
Become a citizen scientist<br />
With your help, <strong>the</strong> marine biologists at MCERC will continue<br />
to build a better understanding <strong>of</strong> humpback whales<br />
in <strong>the</strong> TCI, <strong>the</strong> Caribbean, and <strong>the</strong> North Atlantic. If you<br />
have been lucky enough to go whale watching in <strong>the</strong> TCI,<br />
we would love to include your data to <strong>the</strong> MCERC TCI<br />
Humpback Whale Catalog. The FaceBook group has all<br />
<strong>the</strong> information explaining how to submit your video and<br />
still images and notes that even a seemingly poor photo<br />
can provide important information. Cathy Bacon and <strong>the</strong><br />
rest <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> science team can answer your questions.<br />
In fact, <strong>the</strong> more questions you post in <strong>the</strong> group,<br />
<strong>the</strong> more people will learn about TCI humpback whales,<br />
dolphins, turtles, and all topics related to marine biology.<br />
<strong>Summer</strong> is here and <strong>the</strong> humpback whales have traveled<br />
north to feed. You can become a citizen scientist while<br />
you organize all those photos you captured this winter.<br />
Join <strong>the</strong> FaceBook group and submit your video and photos<br />
from any year in <strong>the</strong> TCI and let’s discover if your<br />
photos match a humpback whale observed in <strong>the</strong> North<br />
Atlantic! a<br />
DECR <strong>of</strong>ficials and members <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Clement Howell High School’s<br />
Tourism Club stand by <strong>the</strong> new signs at Wheeland Pond.<br />
The Department <strong>of</strong> Environment & Coastal Resources<br />
(DECR) collaborated with <strong>the</strong> Clement Howell High<br />
School’s Tourism Club to install information signs at<br />
Wheeland Pond in Wheeland, Providenciales.<br />
The signs, one describing <strong>the</strong> mangrove ecosystem<br />
and <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r encouraging <strong>the</strong> community to<br />
keep <strong>the</strong> ponds clean, were installed by <strong>the</strong> Tourism<br />
Club after <strong>the</strong> students banded toge<strong>the</strong>r to create<br />
awareness about <strong>the</strong> importance <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> wetland ecosystem<br />
following <strong>the</strong> annual World Wetlands Day<br />
clean-up, hosted by <strong>the</strong> DECR, earlier this year.<br />
DECR Environmental Outreach Coordinator Amy<br />
Avenant said, “We are encouraged to see young people<br />
concerned about <strong>the</strong> state <strong>of</strong> our environment<br />
and motivated enough to educate o<strong>the</strong>rs about it<br />
too!” TCI Minister <strong>of</strong> Tourism, Environment, Heritage<br />
and Culture Hon. Ralph Higgs added, “I am pleased<br />
to see <strong>the</strong> collaborative effort between <strong>the</strong> DECR<br />
and Clement Howell High. This is a worthy initiative<br />
and one that we would like to see happen in schools<br />
across <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos through club memberships<br />
and o<strong>the</strong>r means.”<br />
The DECR and Clement Howell High’s Tourism<br />
Club would like to thank Ms. Tanya Parnell, Mr.<br />
Trevor Lewis <strong>of</strong> Graceway IGA and <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos<br />
Tourist Board for <strong>the</strong>ir support <strong>of</strong> this initiative. The<br />
DECR would also like to acknowledge <strong>the</strong> initiative<br />
taken by <strong>the</strong> students and thanks <strong>the</strong>m for giving<br />
back to <strong>the</strong>ir local community and environment. a<br />
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Clockwise from top: A diseased colony <strong>of</strong> maze coral (Meandrina meandrites)<br />
is spotted on a research dive.<br />
This colony <strong>of</strong> brain coral (Diploria labyrinthiformis) shows <strong>the</strong> blotching<br />
pattern brought on by Stony Coral Tissue Loss Disease.<br />
The disease makes its way across a colony <strong>of</strong> great star coral (Montastrea<br />
cavernosa).<br />
ERIN BOWMAN<br />
All is Not Well<br />
Tissue Loss Disease a threat to TCI reefs.<br />
Story and Photos By Erin Bowman and Heidi Hertler, Ph.D.<br />
In a time when climate change is wreaking havoc on coral reefs worldwide, <strong>the</strong> reefs <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos<br />
<strong>Islands</strong> remain some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most resilient and pristine in <strong>the</strong> Caribbean. They are home to more than 60<br />
species <strong>of</strong> stony coral that have been building for millions <strong>of</strong> years, creating <strong>the</strong> intricate reef systems<br />
known today. As worldwide reef degradation goes, <strong>the</strong> Caribbean has been <strong>the</strong> unfortunate epicenter,<br />
with significantly more damage and less recovery than in reefs <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Pacific or Mediterranean. There are<br />
many <strong>the</strong>ories as to why this may be <strong>the</strong> case and likely it is due to a wide variety <strong>of</strong> reasons.<br />
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Geographically, <strong>the</strong> Caribbean’s location makes<br />
it vulnerable to <strong>the</strong> tradewinds that blow across Africa<br />
towards <strong>the</strong> Atlantic, bringing dust and sand particles<br />
from <strong>the</strong> Sahara along with <strong>the</strong>m. It is thought that <strong>the</strong>se<br />
iron-rich particles carried to <strong>the</strong> Caribbean reefs increase<br />
<strong>the</strong> growth <strong>of</strong> algae, which bloom four times faster than<br />
on Indo-Pacific reefs. Algae compete with corals, which<br />
naturally grow slowly and struggle to outcompete <strong>the</strong>se<br />
large blooms. On top <strong>of</strong> that, <strong>the</strong> Indo-Pacific is home to<br />
many more species <strong>of</strong> coral and fish, including vital herbivores<br />
like parrotfish which graze on algae and prevent<br />
it from taking over and smo<strong>the</strong>ring reefs.<br />
Corals thrive in very specific living conditions; water<br />
that gets too hot or too cold, any change in nutrients or<br />
salinity or exposure to too many or too few UV rays all<br />
can cause a coral to be “stressed.” Once stressed, <strong>the</strong><br />
microalgae living inside <strong>of</strong> coral polyps called zooxan<strong>the</strong>llae<br />
are expelled, stripping <strong>the</strong> coral <strong>of</strong> its color and<br />
main energy source. This is <strong>the</strong> phenomenon described<br />
as coral bleaching. Once bleached, a coral is not dead. If<br />
<strong>the</strong> unsuitable conditions that caused <strong>the</strong> coral to stress<br />
return to normal in a reasonable amount <strong>of</strong> time, <strong>the</strong><br />
coral can regain its zooxan<strong>the</strong>llae and return to a healthy,<br />
unstressed state. If <strong>the</strong> condition remains imperfect, and<br />
does not improve, in a matter <strong>of</strong> weeks <strong>the</strong> coral will start<br />
to die, being unable to capture enough food for itself<br />
without its photosyn<strong>the</strong>tic counterpart, zooxan<strong>the</strong>llae.<br />
Despite <strong>the</strong> unfortunate state <strong>of</strong> Caribbean reefs as a<br />
whole, <strong>the</strong> TCI reefs have somehow managed to remain<br />
in a comparatively healthy state. While various bleaching<br />
epidemics have left <strong>the</strong>ir impact, TCI reefs show much<br />
less bleaching than those in Florida or o<strong>the</strong>r parts <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
Caribbean. This could in part be due to <strong>the</strong> deeper nature<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se reefs, where <strong>the</strong> UV light reaching <strong>the</strong> corals is<br />
less harsh.<br />
There is also much less human impact in <strong>the</strong> TCI than<br />
elsewhere in <strong>the</strong> Caribbean. In <strong>the</strong> Caribbean, 22 countries<br />
have larger populations than <strong>the</strong> TCI, which has just<br />
over 36,000 residents as <strong>of</strong> <strong>2019</strong>. South Florida, including<br />
<strong>the</strong> counties <strong>of</strong> Miami-Dade and Monroe, where much<br />
reef degradation has been seen, is home to over 2 million<br />
people, so <strong>the</strong>re is significantly less routine exposure to<br />
human impacts at TCI reefs.<br />
Water temperature surrounding <strong>the</strong> TCI remains quite<br />
stable throughout <strong>the</strong> year. At its coldest, <strong>the</strong> water is<br />
about 26ºC (79º F) and at its hottest, it is 29ºC (84ºF).<br />
Stony Coral Tissue Loss Disease makes its way across a colony <strong>of</strong><br />
great star coral (Montastrea cavernosa).<br />
This is very different from <strong>the</strong> waters <strong>of</strong> South Florida,<br />
in which <strong>the</strong> temperature fluctuates throughout <strong>the</strong> year<br />
from 21ºC (69ºF) to 31ºC (87ºF).<br />
The School for Field Studies Center for Marine<br />
Resource Studies (SFS CMRS) on South Caicos has been<br />
diving and conducting research on <strong>the</strong> surrounding reefs<br />
for <strong>the</strong> past 30 years. Studies have varied over <strong>the</strong> years<br />
but largely revolve around <strong>the</strong> topic <strong>of</strong> reef health and<br />
monitoring. Now in <strong>2019</strong>, for <strong>the</strong> first time in 30 years,<br />
researchers at SFS have noticed a change in <strong>the</strong> reefs <strong>the</strong>y<br />
know so well. Suddenly, at multiple sites, corals were<br />
dying; sometimes just one area on an individual coral and<br />
o<strong>the</strong>r times entire coral heads. It was noticed immediately<br />
that <strong>the</strong>se corals weren’t just bleached, <strong>the</strong>y no longer<br />
showed <strong>the</strong> fuzzy outline indicating polyps still living<br />
within <strong>the</strong> coral and only <strong>the</strong> white skeleton remained.<br />
It was quickly determined that a disease <strong>of</strong> some sort<br />
must be causing this sudden death <strong>of</strong> previously healthy<br />
corals. Coral diseases have been studied for years, and<br />
in many cases, researchers have been able to identify <strong>the</strong><br />
causes, transmission factors, and solutions to such dis-<br />
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eases. Whatever was damaging <strong>the</strong> reefs <strong>of</strong> South Caicos<br />
however, didn’t look or behave like any well-known coral<br />
diseases. Over <strong>the</strong> past few months, <strong>the</strong> researchers at<br />
SFS had been hearing about a new disease that is causing<br />
major problems on <strong>the</strong> Florida Reef Tract, and elsewhere<br />
in <strong>the</strong> Caribbean.<br />
First reported in Florida in 2014, Stony Coral Tissue<br />
Loss Disease (SCTLD) is killing corals faster and across<br />
more species than any o<strong>the</strong>r coral diseases known. Since<br />
2014, it has traveled from nor<strong>the</strong>rn Miami–Dade County<br />
all <strong>the</strong> way down <strong>the</strong> Florida Keys and into <strong>the</strong> Caribbean<br />
in places like Jamaica, St. Maarten, and now <strong>the</strong> TCI. The<br />
method by which <strong>the</strong> disease is transmitted from coral to<br />
coral is unknown, making it extremely difficult to study<br />
or replicate so that methods <strong>of</strong> putting a stop to it can be<br />
tested. Over half <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> stony coral species found on <strong>the</strong><br />
Florida Reef Tract are affected by SCTLD, though <strong>the</strong>re<br />
are many factors that influence <strong>the</strong> likelihood that a coral<br />
will contract <strong>the</strong> disease (such as <strong>the</strong> location <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
coral and time <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> year.) Many researchers throughout<br />
Florida and <strong>the</strong> Caribbean are actively trying to pinpoint<br />
<strong>the</strong> indicators <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> disease and <strong>the</strong> rate at which it progresses,<br />
though it has proven to be a difficult feat as<br />
<strong>the</strong>se attributes may vary by species affected.<br />
SFS CMRS students are collecting<br />
data on coral bleaching and Stony<br />
Coral Tissue Loss Disease near South<br />
Caicos.<br />
In what is widely being<br />
considered an epidemic, <strong>the</strong><br />
reefs that are already deteriorating<br />
now are forced to<br />
face this new and deadly disease.<br />
One quality that makes<br />
SCTLD so lethal is that it<br />
functions from <strong>the</strong> inside<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> coral to <strong>the</strong> outside.<br />
Typical first signs <strong>of</strong> SCTLD<br />
on a coral are bands <strong>of</strong> discoloration<br />
that gradually<br />
begin to turn white and<br />
move across a colony, <strong>of</strong>ten<br />
in a circular pattern radiating<br />
out or a line moving<br />
from one side to <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r.<br />
By <strong>the</strong> time any signs show<br />
up on <strong>the</strong> outside <strong>of</strong> a coral<br />
though, <strong>the</strong> disease has<br />
already infected <strong>the</strong> colony<br />
and begun to do its damage on <strong>the</strong> inside. Due to <strong>the</strong><br />
necrotic nature <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> disease, as <strong>the</strong> coral polyps die,<br />
<strong>the</strong> tissue begins to deteriorate rapidly and slide <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong><br />
colony. Once all living tissue is gone, <strong>the</strong> coral is left with<br />
only <strong>the</strong> skeleton, which will eventually be overgrown by<br />
algae.<br />
Since <strong>the</strong> discovery <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> disease <strong>of</strong>f <strong>of</strong> South Caicos,<br />
SFS researchers and students have worked toge<strong>the</strong>r to<br />
ga<strong>the</strong>r data on affected corals. Knowing <strong>the</strong> local reefs<br />
gives researchers a better perspective as to how much <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> reef is being affected. Identifying differences between<br />
SCTLD in <strong>the</strong> TCI and elsewhere can help to narrow down<br />
characteristics <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> disease. Any similarities or differences<br />
in affected species, location, or depth may be<br />
useful in identifying <strong>the</strong> pathogen or transmission vectors<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> disease.<br />
The good news for TCI reefs comes back to <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
impressive resilience in <strong>the</strong> face <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> devastation that<br />
<strong>the</strong> rest <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Caribbean is facing. Compared to conditions<br />
in Florida, SCTLD here has not even made a dent<br />
in our reefs. The fact alone that it took a full five years<br />
from <strong>the</strong> original outbreak to reach TCI reefs has spared<br />
us from facing <strong>the</strong> same damage. The coral heads here<br />
that have contracted <strong>the</strong> disease are isolated from one<br />
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ano<strong>the</strong>r, <strong>of</strong>ten with one or more o<strong>the</strong>r corals in between<br />
that remain unaffected. This is largely in contrast to<br />
Florida’s reefs, where many groups <strong>of</strong> coral heads can<br />
be seen having died from <strong>the</strong> disease, though this does<br />
not necessarily indicate that all corals within a group<br />
contracted <strong>the</strong> disease one right after <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r in those<br />
cases.<br />
The work that researchers have been doing in Florida<br />
since <strong>the</strong> first outbreak will be incredibly useful in <strong>the</strong><br />
fight against SCTLD here, in that because <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir work<br />
we essentially have a head start on <strong>the</strong> disease and know<br />
more about it than we would if this was a nameless,<br />
unheard <strong>of</strong> condition. As <strong>of</strong> now, SFS is <strong>the</strong> only team in<br />
<strong>the</strong> TCI working to ga<strong>the</strong>r data on SCTLD, but as word gets<br />
out and more people learn about <strong>the</strong> possible destruction<br />
this is going to cause our reefs, we are optimistic that<br />
o<strong>the</strong>r capable hands will join <strong>the</strong> fight. Research will not<br />
only help us to minimize <strong>the</strong> effect <strong>of</strong> SCTLD on our pristine<br />
reefs, but it can also empower us to prevent reefs<br />
elsewhere in <strong>the</strong> world from having to experience <strong>the</strong><br />
alarming loss seen throughout <strong>the</strong> Caribbean. a<br />
Sources<br />
ARC Centre <strong>of</strong> Excellence in Coral Reef Studies. “Coral<br />
reefs in <strong>the</strong> Indo-Pacific Ocean naturally tougher than<br />
Caribbean reefs.” ScienceDaily, 12 July 2012.<br />
Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary. (2018). Florida<br />
Reef Tract Coral Disease Outbreak: Disease. National<br />
Marine Sanctuaries, NOAA.<br />
Kinane, S. (<strong>2019</strong>) Florida’s devastating coral disease has<br />
spread to <strong>the</strong> Caribbean: scientist. 88.5WMNF Florida<br />
Public Radio.<br />
Riggs, B. (2006) Coral Bleaching: Bad news and (a little)<br />
good news for Turks & Caicos Reefs. <strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />
The Museum Turks and Caicos (<strong>2019</strong>) “The Living Reef.”<br />
Turks and Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>, British West Indies.<br />
Turks and Caicos Reef Fund (<strong>2019</strong>) “Coral Bleaching.”<br />
Turks and Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>, British West Indies.<br />
Weinberg, E. (2018) Scientists work toge<strong>the</strong>r to solve a<br />
coral disease mystery in <strong>the</strong> Florida Keys National Marine<br />
Sanctuary. National Ocean Service, NOAA, Department <strong>of</strong><br />
Commerce.<br />
Sea turtle<br />
I am sea turtle.<br />
I am green turtle. I swim far and wide.<br />
Queen in my blue wilderness.<br />
Below <strong>the</strong> sea, dwelled a beautiful green turtle<br />
(she loved to swim around).<br />
She danced with happiness in her heart<br />
she danced as <strong>the</strong> sound <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> sea rang in her ears.<br />
In <strong>the</strong> morning, she wandered far and wide: in a<br />
blink <strong>of</strong> an eye, she could hear all types <strong>of</strong> honking.<br />
She swam and swam; she stopped and ate a plastic<br />
bag thinking <strong>of</strong> jellyfish and <strong>the</strong>n–BOOM–<strong>the</strong> cruise<br />
ship stopped! And an anchor fell as ano<strong>the</strong>r turtle<br />
passed by. Both turtles dropped down in despair!<br />
Their fins cut and bruised: <strong>the</strong> turtles cried with<br />
anxiety. Then <strong>the</strong>y heard a big–SPLASH–two girls<br />
swam to <strong>the</strong> turtles with speed. The girls stopped<br />
with silence They heard a noise–BOOM–and ano<strong>the</strong>r<br />
one–BOOM–<strong>the</strong>n a–SPLASH. Two strong men came<br />
to help all. All <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m toge<strong>the</strong>r lifted <strong>the</strong> anchor<br />
and set it somewhere else. They lifted <strong>the</strong> anchor<br />
slowly and moved it away from <strong>the</strong> turtles.<br />
Two men lifted <strong>the</strong> turtles out to <strong>the</strong> shore…<br />
A few days later, <strong>the</strong> turtles went into a sanctuary…<br />
<strong>the</strong>y found 56 bags <strong>of</strong> plastic in <strong>the</strong>m.<br />
We are sea turtles no more.<br />
We are green turtles no more.<br />
We can no longer swim far and wide,<br />
queens <strong>of</strong> our beautiful blue wilderness.<br />
STOP THIS PLASTIC POLLUTION BEFORE WE LOSE<br />
ALL OF OUR BEAUTIFUL TURTLES!!<br />
This poem was written by Ziahon Taylor,<br />
a Grade 4 student from <strong>the</strong> International School <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />
She wrote <strong>the</strong> poem following <strong>the</strong> school’s “Zero<br />
Waste Week” and subsequent DECR visit.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2019</strong> 39
ISTOCKPHOTO.COM
feature<br />
ALAMY.COM<br />
Opposite page: It’s hard to believe that humpback whales, among <strong>the</strong> largest creatures on <strong>the</strong> planet, were hunted almost to extinction less<br />
than 60 years ago. Above: This Anton Otto Fischer painting depicts <strong>the</strong> almost-unimaginable work <strong>of</strong> harpooning a whale.<br />
The Hunt for Whales<br />
From harpooning leviathans to holding <strong>the</strong>m dear.<br />
By Ben Stubenberg<br />
“I need everyone’s eyes on <strong>the</strong> water,” Captain Kell Talbot earnestly tells <strong>the</strong> guests on <strong>the</strong> Deep Blue<br />
Charters whale watching boat three miles east <strong>of</strong> Salt Cay. “The front <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> boat is twelve o’clock, <strong>the</strong><br />
back six o’clock. When you see a whale surface, call out your sighting on <strong>the</strong> clock so we can track it.” All<br />
hands on deck peer out in silence over <strong>the</strong> ripples <strong>of</strong> a pale blue sea glistening in <strong>the</strong> morning sun—straining<br />
to catch <strong>the</strong> first glimpse <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> giant cetaceans we know are out <strong>the</strong>re, just below <strong>the</strong> surface, gliding<br />
over <strong>the</strong> shallow banks. The palpable thrill <strong>of</strong> anticipation bonds perfect strangers in a singular quest.<br />
“Look! There! Four o’clock,” a watcher cries out. “Oh my God!” All heads turn to see a dark gray arching<br />
back break <strong>the</strong> surface followed by a spray <strong>of</strong> vapor and squeals and hollers <strong>of</strong> jaw-dropping awe. Captain<br />
Kell cuts <strong>the</strong> engine, letting <strong>the</strong> boat drift. Suddenly, <strong>the</strong> 50 foot (15 meter) long humpback, nearly twice<br />
<strong>the</strong> size <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> boat, majestically rockets straight up, almost completely out <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> water. Huge flippers<br />
open wide as if to say, “Hello, I see you,” before <strong>the</strong> massive body splashes down spectacularly before us.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2019</strong> 41
That <strong>the</strong>se magnificent creatures, <strong>the</strong> largest our<br />
planet has ever seen, were hunted almost to extinction<br />
less than 60 years ago hardly seems possible. The consuming<br />
quest for quick riches from slaughtered whales<br />
to fuel <strong>the</strong> demand for lamp oil, buggy whips, and cheap<br />
meat for an industrializing world might well have denied<br />
us that shared moment <strong>of</strong> intense common humanity on<br />
<strong>the</strong> sea—as well as all future generations.<br />
And that should give us pause for what our progeny<br />
may say about us 60 years from now. For even today, notwithstanding<br />
protections, whales face a future as uncertain<br />
and perilous as <strong>the</strong>y did when whalers relentlessly pursued<br />
<strong>the</strong>m across every ocean. In a hopeful twist <strong>of</strong> fate, however,<br />
<strong>the</strong> pristine waters surrounding <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos<br />
<strong>Islands</strong>, that once saw its share <strong>of</strong> whale hunting, could be<br />
a respite from modern perils, a sanctuary where whales<br />
thrive and perhaps befriend us.<br />
Early whalers<br />
Humans have hunted whales since prehistoric times,<br />
but <strong>the</strong> story <strong>of</strong> commercial whaling began in <strong>the</strong> early<br />
1700s, principally out <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> New England fishing town <strong>of</strong><br />
Nantucket. Here, ships under <strong>the</strong> power <strong>of</strong> wind and sails<br />
fanned out into <strong>the</strong> eastern seaboard <strong>of</strong> North America for<br />
what was at first easy pickings. Humpbacks, sperm whales,<br />
and right whales abounded and <strong>the</strong>ir numbers seemed limitless.<br />
Hardy sailors perched in crow’s nests atop masts<br />
100 feet (30 meters) above <strong>the</strong> deck scanned <strong>the</strong> sea for<br />
<strong>the</strong> same telltale signs as tourists on whale tours do today.<br />
When <strong>the</strong> bellowing cry <strong>of</strong> “There she blows” rang<br />
out at <strong>the</strong> sighting <strong>of</strong> a whale, <strong>the</strong> crew below frantically<br />
lowered open whale boats over <strong>the</strong> side and rowed hard,<br />
guided by pointing arms from <strong>the</strong> crow’s nest. Crouched<br />
at <strong>the</strong> prow, <strong>the</strong> strongest and most agile man <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> lot<br />
readied his harpoons, essentially modified wooden spears,<br />
about 6 feet (2 meters) long, with one or two metal barbs<br />
near <strong>the</strong> tip. A bucket held a long coiled rope fastened<br />
tightly to <strong>the</strong> harpoon shaft, <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r end wrapped around<br />
a wooden post built into <strong>the</strong> boat. The harpooneer, as he<br />
was called, stood and braced himself as <strong>the</strong> boat closed<br />
in on <strong>the</strong> prize. The captain signaled for <strong>the</strong> crew to stop<br />
rowing and use <strong>the</strong>ir oars to paddle quietly.<br />
Then, just feet from <strong>the</strong> giant leviathan and when<br />
seconds counted, <strong>the</strong> harpooneer lifted his weapon high<br />
above his head and hurled it as straight and deep and true<br />
as he could into <strong>the</strong> thick blubber <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> whale’s back so<br />
<strong>the</strong> barbs held fast. If he was quick and lucky, he might get<br />
<strong>of</strong>f a second throw. As <strong>the</strong> wounded whale bolted from <strong>the</strong><br />
boat using powerful thrusts from its tail, <strong>the</strong> rope rushed<br />
out, so fast <strong>the</strong> post smoked from <strong>the</strong> friction. Sometimes<br />
<strong>the</strong> rope entangled <strong>the</strong> harpooneer, severing his leg or<br />
arm or dragging him overboard. Fighting for its own life,<br />
<strong>the</strong> whale would try to dive down, swiftly towing <strong>the</strong> boat<br />
toward <strong>the</strong> horizon up to 23 mph (37 kph) in what became<br />
known as a Nantucket Sleigh Ride. Thrilling as it was terrifying,<br />
<strong>the</strong> crew hung on, hoping <strong>the</strong> out-<strong>of</strong>-control boat<br />
would not be pulled under. The struggle might go on for<br />
30 minutes or more until <strong>the</strong> whale, exhausted and near<br />
Sometimes whales fight back. There have been at least half a dozen recorded incidents <strong>of</strong> cetaceans using <strong>the</strong>ir massive heads (mainly sperm<br />
whales) to ram whaling ships in apparent acts <strong>of</strong> fury.<br />
42 www.timespub.tc
death, surfaced for one last breath <strong>of</strong> air. In <strong>the</strong> bloodsoaked<br />
sea, <strong>the</strong> whale boat would again pull close, so <strong>the</strong><br />
captain or first mate could try to finish <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> weakened<br />
whale by thrusting a trident-tipped lance into its belly.<br />
At that point, <strong>the</strong> crew had to act quickly to bring <strong>the</strong><br />
whale back to <strong>the</strong> mo<strong>the</strong>r ship, as whales sink quickly after<br />
being killed. Then begin <strong>the</strong> arduous and equally dangerous<br />
task <strong>of</strong> flensing (butchering) and boiling <strong>the</strong> blubber<br />
for oil. The decks, slick with blood, caused many a whaler<br />
to slip and fall overboard into a frenzy <strong>of</strong> feeding sharks<br />
below.<br />
By <strong>the</strong> mid-1700s, New England whaling ships had<br />
reduced <strong>the</strong> whale populations <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong>ir shores, forcing<br />
<strong>the</strong> whalers to expand <strong>the</strong>ir searches fur<strong>the</strong>r south to<br />
<strong>the</strong> Caribbean and <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> coast <strong>of</strong> Brazil. As <strong>the</strong> whales<br />
became scarce <strong>the</strong>re too, whalers sailed around <strong>the</strong> Horn,<br />
entering <strong>the</strong> vast Pacific where ships could be away from<br />
home port for years. Typically, a successful whale ship<br />
would catch between 25 and 50 whales. For all <strong>the</strong> danger<br />
<strong>the</strong> crew faced—almost every hunt produced some injury<br />
or death—<strong>the</strong> rewards depended entirely on <strong>the</strong> favorable<br />
outcome <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> voyage, and few got rich. The pay for sailors<br />
was only marginally better than crewing on vessels<br />
carrying cargo. Still, <strong>the</strong> able-bodied signed up in droves<br />
for <strong>the</strong> intoxicating adventure and a chance to make a bit<br />
more money.<br />
At whale hunting’s peak (1820–1850), whalers numbered<br />
8,000 and killed around 10,000 whales a year. In<br />
<strong>the</strong> second half <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> 19th century, <strong>the</strong> whaling industry<br />
began to decline as new and less expensive petroleum<br />
products became available. Paradoxically, from 1900–<br />
1999, 2.9 million whales were killed, according to Scientific<br />
American—four times more than were killed in <strong>the</strong> previous<br />
400 years. Larger whale ships and <strong>the</strong> perfection <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
explosively charged harpoon that could be mounted and<br />
fired from <strong>the</strong> ship deck—credited to Norwegian inventor<br />
Svend Foyn—allowed for many more whales to be taken,<br />
though mainly for meat.<br />
Whale attacks<br />
Sometimes <strong>the</strong> whales fought back. The most famous fictional<br />
account, <strong>of</strong> course, is <strong>the</strong> story <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> great white<br />
whale Moby Dick by Hermann Melville. He based his epic<br />
treasure <strong>of</strong> American literature on <strong>the</strong> true story <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
attack on <strong>the</strong> Nantucket whaling ship Essex in November<br />
1820 in <strong>the</strong> South Pacific, more than 1,000 miles <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong><br />
coast <strong>of</strong> Peru. (The story has since made into a major<br />
motion picture, “In <strong>the</strong> Heart <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Sea”, directed by<br />
Ron Howard.) In fact, <strong>the</strong>re have been at least six o<strong>the</strong>r<br />
recorded incidents <strong>of</strong> cetaceans using <strong>the</strong>ir massive heads<br />
(mainly sperm whales) to ram whaling ships in apparent<br />
acts <strong>of</strong> fury: The Pusie Hall in 1835, <strong>the</strong> Lydia and <strong>the</strong><br />
Two Generals in 1836, <strong>the</strong> Pocahontas in 1850, <strong>the</strong> Ann<br />
Alexander in 1851, and <strong>the</strong> Kathleen in 1902. All <strong>the</strong>se<br />
wooden ships came out <strong>of</strong> New England ports, and all but<br />
<strong>the</strong> Pusie and <strong>the</strong> Pocahontas sank.<br />
In <strong>the</strong> case <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Essex, first mate Owen Chase spotted<br />
a huge sperm whale lying quietly in <strong>the</strong> distance, <strong>the</strong><br />
head facing <strong>the</strong> ship. After two or three spouts, <strong>the</strong> colossal<br />
animal made straight for <strong>the</strong> Essex, ramming its head<br />
into <strong>the</strong> side <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ship, “with an appalling and tremendous<br />
jar, as nearly threw all <strong>of</strong> us on our faces.” The whale<br />
passed under <strong>the</strong> ship and <strong>the</strong>n surfaced, allowing <strong>the</strong> first<br />
mate to see him “smite his jaws toge<strong>the</strong>r, as if distracted<br />
with rage and fury,” and <strong>the</strong>n disappeared. Shortly <strong>the</strong>reafter,<br />
a crew member cried out, “Here he is making for us<br />
again.” Head half out <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> water, <strong>the</strong> whale bore down<br />
once more on <strong>the</strong> ship, this time striking <strong>the</strong> bow. Water<br />
rushed in through <strong>the</strong> busted planks and <strong>the</strong> Essex began<br />
sinking, so fast that Chase and <strong>the</strong> crew barely had enough<br />
time to escape in <strong>the</strong>ir whale boat.<br />
The Essex captain, George Pollard, who had been out<br />
with ano<strong>the</strong>r whale boat pursuing and harpooning whales,<br />
returned stunned to see his ship floundering before disappearing<br />
under <strong>the</strong> waves. Bobbing on <strong>the</strong> sea in open<br />
20 foot boats with hardly any food or water, <strong>the</strong> whalers<br />
contemplated what to do next. The captain, just 28 years<br />
old, wanted to head south to <strong>the</strong> nearest land in Marquesa<br />
<strong>Islands</strong> and Tahiti, but Chase and o<strong>the</strong>rs talked him out<br />
<strong>of</strong> it because <strong>the</strong>y believed cannibals lived <strong>the</strong>re. So <strong>the</strong>y<br />
steered <strong>the</strong> longer way east to South America, perhaps<br />
<strong>the</strong> most ironic decision in maritime history. In <strong>the</strong> weeks<br />
at sea that followed, <strong>the</strong> crew quickly ran out <strong>of</strong> what few<br />
provisions <strong>the</strong>y had and began eating anyone who died,<br />
becoming cannibals <strong>the</strong>mselves. On Pollard’s boat, when<br />
no one had died for a few days, <strong>the</strong>y drew lots <strong>of</strong> who<br />
would be killed and eaten. Only eight <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> original twenty<br />
survived <strong>the</strong> harrowing ordeal at sea, including Pollard and<br />
Chase, to tell <strong>the</strong>ir stories.<br />
Notably, <strong>the</strong> gigantic bull sperm whale that rammed<br />
<strong>the</strong> Essex had not, in fact, been harpooned himself, but<br />
may have reacted to seeing and hearing members <strong>of</strong> his<br />
pod being attacked. While whales are social creatures and<br />
normally not aggressive, <strong>the</strong>y can be when challenged or<br />
feel <strong>the</strong> whale family is threatened.<br />
The attack on <strong>the</strong> Ann Alexander took place in <strong>the</strong><br />
same area as <strong>the</strong> Essex 31 years later on August 20, 1851<br />
(<strong>the</strong> same year Melville’s book was published) with its own<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2019</strong> 43
astounding scenario. The ship had launched two whale<br />
boats, one <strong>of</strong> which harpooned a sperm whale. After a<br />
Nantucket Sleigh Ride, <strong>the</strong> whale circled back, and with its<br />
huge jaws snapped <strong>the</strong> whale boat in half, throwing all six<br />
whalers in <strong>the</strong> water. A second whale boat nearby rescued<br />
<strong>the</strong>m. Meanwhile, a third boat was launched from <strong>the</strong> Ann<br />
Alexander and headed out to assist. But ra<strong>the</strong>r than return<br />
to <strong>the</strong> ship, <strong>the</strong> remaining two boats continued to chase<br />
and harpoon <strong>the</strong> angry whale. Once more, <strong>the</strong> whale circled<br />
back and crushed <strong>the</strong> third boat with its jaws, tossing<br />
<strong>the</strong> whole crew in <strong>the</strong> water. Again, <strong>the</strong>y were rescued by<br />
<strong>the</strong> remaining whale boat, now quite crowded, and finally<br />
returned to <strong>the</strong> ship.<br />
Ra<strong>the</strong>r than call it a day, <strong>the</strong> crew continued to harpoon<br />
<strong>the</strong> whale from <strong>the</strong> ship when it swam close, managing to<br />
lodge a harpoon in its head. The whale disappeared below<br />
<strong>the</strong> surface, but <strong>the</strong>n surfaced to smash its head into <strong>the</strong><br />
hull below <strong>the</strong> waterline, creating a gaping hole. As water<br />
rushed in, <strong>the</strong> crew re-launched <strong>the</strong> one remaining whale<br />
boat, barely getting away, but now even more vulnerable<br />
on <strong>the</strong> open sea with a raging whale. The whale swam <strong>of</strong>f,<br />
however, and two days later ano<strong>the</strong>r whaling ship spotted<br />
and rescued <strong>the</strong> whalers.<br />
TCI whale hunts<br />
The first recorded Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> whale catch<br />
took place on February 4, 1846 <strong>of</strong>f Grand Turk amid great<br />
rejoicing <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> people, according to <strong>the</strong> Handbook <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
Turks and Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> by J. Henry Pusey, published in<br />
1897. Pusey writes:<br />
“This gave rise to well-organized whale-fishing companies<br />
at Grand Turk and Salt Cay. Whales were thus<br />
captured every year, a single whale <strong>of</strong> ordinary size<br />
being sufficient for <strong>the</strong> entire population to share in<br />
<strong>the</strong> delicacy <strong>of</strong> its flesh. Large quantities <strong>of</strong> train (or<br />
common) oil were obtained from this most remarkable<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> cetaceous order <strong>of</strong> animals.”<br />
Ra<strong>the</strong>r than big whaling ships, <strong>the</strong> Grand Turk<br />
Whaling Company, succeeded later by <strong>the</strong> Salt Cay Whaling<br />
Company, relied largely on native Turks & Caicos Islanders<br />
using rowboats launched from shore. The whaling company<br />
even placed an ad in <strong>the</strong> Turks <strong>Islands</strong> Gazette<br />
and Commercial Reporter on January 3, 1849 calling<br />
for “Headers, Steersmen (harpooneers) and Oarsmen for<br />
<strong>the</strong> Whale Company’s boats for <strong>the</strong> approaching season.<br />
Those who have pratice (sic) would be preferred.”<br />
MAT MATLACK<br />
Taylor Hill on Salt Cay was once a whaling station look-out. The limestone ruins and field walls can still be seen. It is still a good place to<br />
watch whales pass by during <strong>the</strong> winter months.<br />
44 www.timespub.tc
Whalers would <strong>of</strong>ten harpoon a calf and keep it alive to attract <strong>the</strong> mo<strong>the</strong>r and o<strong>the</strong>r whales, so <strong>the</strong>y too could be harpooned.<br />
KATHARINE HART–DEEP BLUE CHARTERS, GRAND TURK<br />
For decades, <strong>the</strong> local population directly benefited<br />
from whales caught and killed that could supplement <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
meager diets, likely alleviating hunger in view <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> poverty<br />
at <strong>the</strong> time. On February 11, 1871, <strong>the</strong> Royal Standard<br />
carried a news article telling <strong>of</strong> a whale capture and what it<br />
meant to <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>:<br />
“With much pleasure we give place to <strong>the</strong> Report,<br />
from a correspondent on Salt Cay <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> capture <strong>of</strong> a<br />
whale by <strong>the</strong> boats <strong>of</strong> that place. We wish <strong>the</strong> financial<br />
condition <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> colony was more flourishing, so<br />
that a bounty may be given for each whale killed and<br />
brought to shore, as no one, but those who have witnessed<br />
it, knows what a godsend <strong>the</strong> flesh <strong>of</strong> a whale<br />
is to a poor community.”<br />
The article not only effusively commends <strong>the</strong> harpooneer<br />
as Mr. John Vose Lightbourn, but goes on to<br />
articulate <strong>the</strong> pressing need for food.<br />
“What a gift this mass <strong>of</strong> meat is to <strong>the</strong> laboring portion<br />
<strong>of</strong> and <strong>the</strong> poor and destitute <strong>of</strong> our Island, who<br />
in consequent <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> scarcity and high prices <strong>of</strong> provisions<br />
have for a long time been deprived <strong>of</strong> a meal,<br />
and are at present able to put by a good supply <strong>of</strong><br />
strong and wholesome food.”<br />
Giving us a glimpse into <strong>the</strong> tenor <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> times, Mr.<br />
Pusey recounts <strong>the</strong> harpooning <strong>of</strong> a whale calf <strong>of</strong>f Grand<br />
Turk on April 17, 1872.<br />
“The old mo<strong>the</strong>r-whale kept so closely during <strong>the</strong> capture<br />
to her wounded young, that with proper materials<br />
(perhaps indicating need for an additional harpoon)<br />
and cautious management, she also would have been<br />
caught.”<br />
Whalers <strong>of</strong>ten harpooned a calf and kept it alive to<br />
attract <strong>the</strong> mo<strong>the</strong>r and o<strong>the</strong>r whales, so <strong>the</strong>y too could<br />
be harpooned. At this late date in <strong>the</strong> season, most <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> family <strong>of</strong> humpbacks had probably begun <strong>the</strong> 1,500<br />
mile (2,400 kilometer) journey north back to <strong>the</strong> feeding<br />
waters <strong>of</strong>f Newfoundland and Greenland, leaving <strong>the</strong><br />
mo<strong>the</strong>r and calf alone. Perhaps <strong>the</strong> mo<strong>the</strong>r lingered just a<br />
few more weeks so <strong>the</strong>y could get stronger before making<br />
<strong>the</strong> strenuous trek. Yet his matter-<strong>of</strong>-fact observation,<br />
important enough to include on <strong>the</strong> now-crumbling, yellowed<br />
pages <strong>of</strong> Pusey’s book, echoes across <strong>the</strong> ages from<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir time to ours. And 147 years later, we feel <strong>the</strong> torment<br />
<strong>of</strong> that mo<strong>the</strong>r-whale desperately staying with her mortally<br />
wounded calf to <strong>the</strong> end.<br />
Along with food, <strong>the</strong> local whaling companies<br />
extracted whale oil that could be barreled and sold. Pusey<br />
tells us that in <strong>the</strong> month <strong>of</strong> February 1883, a whale was<br />
caught at Salt Cay that produced 900 gallons <strong>of</strong> oil. He<br />
also notes that in <strong>the</strong> same year <strong>the</strong> head <strong>of</strong> a sperm whale<br />
was found at Bambarra (Middle Caicos), yielding “several<br />
hundred gallons <strong>of</strong> sperm oil.”<br />
The Salt Cay Whaling Company closed in 1888, but<br />
whaling in TCI apparently did not stop, and may possibly<br />
have continued as late as 1920. According to Salt Cay<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2019</strong> 45
native and boat captain Oscar Talbot, based on stories he<br />
had heard from his fa<strong>the</strong>r and grandfa<strong>the</strong>r, “Local Turks<br />
Islanders regularly set out on <strong>the</strong>ir own to hunt whales<br />
to supply Salt Cay and Grand Turk with meat, which was<br />
considered <strong>the</strong> delicacy <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> day.” Tim Dunn, ano<strong>the</strong>r Salt<br />
Cay native and whale expert, noted that Taylor Hill, <strong>the</strong><br />
highest point in Salt Cay at 74 feet (23 meters), functioned<br />
as a look-out for spotting whales.<br />
Once harpooned, Mr. Talbot said, “The whale would<br />
run for miles and miles pulling <strong>the</strong> boat along,” thus experiencing<br />
a Nantucket Sleigh Ride in TCI style. Mr. Talbot<br />
recalled hearing how one whaler got his foot cut <strong>of</strong>f after<br />
becoming entangled in <strong>the</strong> outgoing rope, leaving no<br />
doubt that TCI whalers faced <strong>the</strong> same dangers as o<strong>the</strong>r<br />
whalers back in <strong>the</strong> day.<br />
Typically, <strong>the</strong> whales would be hauled to “Whale<br />
Island,” a spit <strong>of</strong> land barely above sea level about 200<br />
feet (70 meters) from <strong>the</strong> shore <strong>of</strong> Salt Cay’s nor<strong>the</strong>ast<br />
windward side. There, <strong>the</strong> whalers cut up and dispersed<br />
meat to <strong>the</strong> people who would preserve it by first soaking<br />
it in salt water and <strong>the</strong>n leaving it out to dry—necessary in<br />
<strong>the</strong> absence <strong>of</strong> refrigeration. “In <strong>the</strong> late 1800s,” Mr. Dunn<br />
said, “Salt Cay had a population <strong>of</strong> almost 1,000 people<br />
and imported nearly all <strong>of</strong> its food. So hauling in a massive<br />
whale could feed everyone for months.” One can easily<br />
imagine a festive scene <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> whole island ga<strong>the</strong>ring to<br />
watch <strong>the</strong> spectacle and anticipating <strong>the</strong> meal <strong>the</strong>y would<br />
soon enjoy. Only ruins remain <strong>of</strong> a stone house where this<br />
took place, leaving just enough to step back to <strong>the</strong> days<br />
when Salt Cay celebrated its intrepid whalers.<br />
Perhaps <strong>the</strong> most intriguing connection to whales,<br />
however, is <strong>the</strong> story <strong>of</strong> Salt Cay islanders dipping <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
infant children in <strong>the</strong> blood <strong>of</strong> a whale in <strong>the</strong> belief that<br />
<strong>the</strong> child would be infused with <strong>the</strong> strength <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> whale.<br />
The ritual was first reported in <strong>the</strong> 2001/2002 Winter issue<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>, in <strong>the</strong> story, “Whale Watching” by<br />
Marsha Pardee Woodring, and sourced to long time Salt<br />
Cay resident and TCI historian Josiah Marvel.<br />
While TCI whaling has long gone, <strong>the</strong> wonderment for<br />
whales never ceased, and nei<strong>the</strong>r did <strong>the</strong> encounters. Mr.<br />
Talbot recalled some 40 years ago when he captained a<br />
sloop from Grand Turk to Salt Cay. Along <strong>the</strong> way, a whale<br />
unexpectedly headed straight for <strong>the</strong> boat in a scene right<br />
out <strong>of</strong> Moby Dick and <strong>the</strong> Essex. Seeing <strong>the</strong> aggressive<br />
approach, Mr. Talbot managed to tack <strong>the</strong> boat away from<br />
<strong>the</strong> on-coming whale, <strong>the</strong>reby minimizing <strong>the</strong> impact. He<br />
<strong>the</strong>n sailed toward a shallow reef where <strong>the</strong> whale could<br />
not follow, and got away unsca<strong>the</strong>d.<br />
Schoolchildren on Grand Turk and Salt Cay have grown<br />
up with <strong>the</strong> lore <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> whales. When <strong>the</strong> whales breach<br />
just <strong>of</strong>fshore—especially from Salt Cay where <strong>the</strong> school<br />
is just 300 feet (90 meters) from <strong>the</strong> beach—teachers let<br />
students out to witness this gift <strong>of</strong> nature bequea<strong>the</strong>d to<br />
<strong>the</strong>m, a childhood memory <strong>of</strong> astonishment remembered<br />
well into adulthood.<br />
Whaling today<br />
<strong>Islands</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Eastern Caribbean—Dominica, St. Lucia, St.<br />
Vincent and <strong>the</strong> Grenadines, and Grenada—have all hunted<br />
whales at some time. Of <strong>the</strong>se, <strong>the</strong> small island <strong>of</strong> Bequia,<br />
<strong>the</strong> nor<strong>the</strong>rnmost island <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Grenadines, held on tightest<br />
to <strong>the</strong> tradition—from 1875 right up to <strong>the</strong> present.<br />
For most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> second half <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> 20th century, whaler<br />
Athneal Ollivierre dominated <strong>the</strong> hunt, plunging hand harpoons<br />
into <strong>the</strong> whales just like <strong>the</strong>y did in <strong>the</strong> 1800s. To<br />
help guide him, Islanders would run along a ridge flashing<br />
mirrors to signal <strong>the</strong> direction <strong>the</strong> whale was swimming. As<br />
once happened in Grand Turk and Salt Cay, <strong>the</strong> captured<br />
whale is even today brought to <strong>the</strong> shore and divided up<br />
among <strong>the</strong> community to great rejoicing.<br />
Aboriginal peoples in Greenland, Siberia, and Alaska<br />
also hunt whales throwing hand-held harpoons as <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
ancestors did one or two thousand years ago, though<br />
now most use grenades on <strong>the</strong> harpoons to hasten <strong>the</strong><br />
death. But <strong>the</strong>se small whaling communities take very few<br />
whales and hardly threaten <strong>the</strong> population. Hence, <strong>the</strong><br />
International Whaling Commission’s (IWC) allowance for<br />
aboriginal whalers, that includes, interestingly, <strong>the</strong> whalers<br />
<strong>of</strong> Bequia (though not without skeptics questioning how<br />
“aboriginal” has been applied).<br />
Far more important for <strong>the</strong> IWC is <strong>the</strong> protection <strong>of</strong><br />
whales from larger scale whaling. Established in 1946, <strong>the</strong><br />
IWC develops policies and agreements for whale conservation,<br />
but leaves for individual countries to adopt and<br />
enforce <strong>the</strong>m, such as <strong>the</strong> US through <strong>the</strong> Endangered<br />
Species Act. Those efforts, however, are challenged and<br />
undercut by Japan, Norway, and Iceland who claim sustainable<br />
whaling as a cultural heritage. Recently, <strong>the</strong>se<br />
nations increased <strong>the</strong> catch <strong>of</strong> minke whales once <strong>the</strong> IWC<br />
took <strong>the</strong>m <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> endangered list. Japan, in particular, has<br />
succeeded in getting an IWC exception to kill whales for<br />
“scientific” research and sell <strong>the</strong> meat for consumption.<br />
To bolster its position, Japan has provided significant<br />
development aid to some Eastern Caribbean countries. The<br />
unstated quid-pro-quo? Become IWC members and vote<br />
in favor <strong>of</strong> Japanese government initiatives to allow limited<br />
whaling. For hard-pressed Caribbean island nations,<br />
including St. Vincent and <strong>the</strong> Grenadines, <strong>the</strong> choice<br />
46 www.timespub.tc
etween whales and a people sinking fur<strong>the</strong>r into poverty<br />
becomes evident.<br />
The sentiment to protect whales and <strong>the</strong> proclivity<br />
to kill <strong>the</strong>m clashed openly in 2017, pitting well-heeled<br />
First World people against <strong>the</strong> hunters. After docking in<br />
St. Vincent, passengers from a Thompson Cruises ship<br />
signed up for a whale watching excursion <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> coast. To<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir initial delight, <strong>the</strong>y came across a pod <strong>of</strong> four orcas<br />
(also known as killer whales). As <strong>the</strong> whale watching boat<br />
approached, a fishing boat arrived and began harpooning<br />
and killing two <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> whales in front <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> horrified tourists<br />
who, along with <strong>the</strong>ir captain, screamed for <strong>the</strong>m to<br />
stop, but to no avail.<br />
Although <strong>the</strong> incident may put pressure on St. Vincent<br />
and <strong>the</strong> Grenadines, local pride and defiance <strong>of</strong> outsiders<br />
who try to tell <strong>the</strong>m what to do may well prevail, at least<br />
for now. Proponents <strong>of</strong> limited whaling pose a provocative<br />
question: Why should whales, if not endangered, receive<br />
more protection from slaughter than o<strong>the</strong>r animals butchered<br />
on an industrial scale with hardly more humaneness?<br />
More to <strong>the</strong> point: Why do big brainy, anthropomorphic<br />
animals get spared, while <strong>the</strong> less attractive, dumb ones<br />
that don’t beguile us with wonder end up on our dinner<br />
plate without a second thought? Is this not cultural bigotry,<br />
<strong>the</strong>y ask, by nations that once pr<strong>of</strong>ited mightily from<br />
whales <strong>the</strong>y hunted to <strong>the</strong> brink <strong>of</strong> extinction?<br />
A place for whales<br />
The debate over killing whales may soon become moot.<br />
As chemical pollutants in <strong>the</strong> ocean such as mercury, PCB<br />
and DDT “biomagnify” up <strong>the</strong> food chain to whales, <strong>the</strong>se<br />
toxins get stored first in <strong>the</strong> fleshy whale blubber. Then,<br />
in times <strong>of</strong> stress when food is scarce, <strong>the</strong> blubber breaks<br />
down to provide an energy supply that in turn releases<br />
<strong>the</strong> toxins into <strong>the</strong> rest <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> body, causing even greater<br />
toxic concentrations. When whale cows give birth, a significant<br />
portion <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> toxins are passed on to <strong>the</strong> calf that<br />
can severely impact growth and development. According<br />
to OceanCare, an international organization dedicated to<br />
protecting marine wildlife, <strong>the</strong> mercury, PCB, and DDT levels<br />
exceed thresholds <strong>of</strong> safe consumption up to 5,000<br />
times, making whale meat unsuitable for humans. Hunting<br />
whales for food, thus, becomes pointless.<br />
Meanwhile, o<strong>the</strong>r elements <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> modern world<br />
threaten whale populations globally. Drift nets entangle<br />
and kill whales along with o<strong>the</strong>r forms <strong>of</strong> marine life.<br />
Large ship engines disorient whales, whose hearing is <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
primary way <strong>of</strong> navigating <strong>the</strong> seas and communicating<br />
with o<strong>the</strong>r whales, thus interfering with <strong>the</strong>ir migration<br />
patterns. More ships on <strong>the</strong> high seas moving at greater<br />
speeds means more collisions that kill and maim whales<br />
in <strong>the</strong>ir path. Sonar testing by <strong>the</strong> US and o<strong>the</strong>r navies<br />
to improve detection <strong>of</strong> enemy submarines fur<strong>the</strong>r exacerbates<br />
noise pollution with bursts up to 235 decibels<br />
that can cause whales to beach <strong>the</strong>mselves. The US Navy<br />
has recently placed restrictions on time and place to test<br />
anti-submarine sonar, and Navy warships now broadcast<br />
messages to commercial ships with locations <strong>of</strong> whale<br />
sightings to reduce collisions. This reduces <strong>the</strong> killing but<br />
doesn’t stop it.<br />
There is some good news amidst <strong>the</strong> despair.<br />
Humpback whales appear to be recovering in <strong>the</strong> Turks &<br />
Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>. The slight increase in numbers <strong>of</strong> humpbacks<br />
suggests that TCI continues to be a sought-after and<br />
viable habitat where whales can return year after year to<br />
calve and mate during <strong>the</strong> winter months.<br />
Nei<strong>the</strong>r <strong>the</strong> humpback recovery nor TCI as a “destination”<br />
for <strong>the</strong>se whales can be taken for granted, however.<br />
More cruise ship passengers and o<strong>the</strong>r tourists anxious<br />
for <strong>the</strong> “chance <strong>of</strong> a lifetime” to see and perhaps swim<br />
with <strong>the</strong>se leviathans has resulted in a corresponding<br />
jump in whale watching boaters without proper training to<br />
approach whales. Too many boats up close put enormous<br />
stress on <strong>the</strong> humpbacks, particularly mo<strong>the</strong>r whales who<br />
have just given birth and need rest to conserve energy for<br />
<strong>the</strong> trek north.<br />
The time has come for TCI to formally create a National<br />
Whale Sanctuary that protects and nurtures <strong>the</strong>se astonishing<br />
humpbacks. Drawing on <strong>the</strong> experience <strong>of</strong> responsible<br />
whale watching operators and marine biologists, a sanctuary<br />
can become an unspoiled space where humans and<br />
cetaceans meet ever so gently. Not incidentally, limited,<br />
upscale whale tourism <strong>of</strong> this kind also produces substantial<br />
revenue. Few places on <strong>the</strong> planet can match TCI for<br />
<strong>the</strong> experience <strong>of</strong> being with whales who fill us with reverence<br />
and awe, as happened on Captain Kell’s boat, but<br />
only if we hold dear this fragile treasure that frequents our<br />
waters. a<br />
Ben Stubenberg (ben@caicunaniki.com.) is a contributing<br />
writer to <strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> with a passion for TCI history.<br />
An avid ocean man, he is <strong>the</strong> co-founder <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> sports<br />
and adventure company Caicu Naniki and <strong>the</strong> annual<br />
Turks & Caicos “Race for <strong>the</strong> Conch” Eco-SeaSwim.<br />
Special thanks to <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />
Foundation, Oscar Talbot, and Tim Dunn for providing<br />
essential materials for this article.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2019</strong> 47
feature<br />
Opposite page: Humpback tails, or flukes, are a way to identify specific whales. Each tail is different from any o<strong>the</strong>r, like fingerprints.<br />
Above: It is incredible to see an adult humpback breaching, and when you hear <strong>the</strong> thunderous boom it makes, you will never forget <strong>the</strong> sound.<br />
Gentle Giants<br />
Spending a season with <strong>the</strong> humpback whales.<br />
Story & Photos By Kelly Currington<br />
The stillness <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> water is broken and silence gives way to <strong>the</strong> sound <strong>of</strong> a low, powerful groan as air<br />
is being expelled from <strong>the</strong> lungs <strong>of</strong> a creature at an approximate speed <strong>of</strong> 200 mph . . . and <strong>the</strong> spell is<br />
cast. There are few things in this world that truly humble you, make you realize you are just a tiny part<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> greater picture. Being in <strong>the</strong> presence <strong>of</strong> a creature weighing up to 40 tons and 40 feet in length<br />
reminds you <strong>of</strong> this and changes your heart and soul.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2019</strong> 49
Meeting a humpback whale face-to-face, especially a calf, is a moment that will leave a permanent mark on your soul.<br />
Imagine slipping quietly over <strong>the</strong> side <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> tender<br />
into <strong>the</strong> sea, putting your face in <strong>the</strong> water and seeing <strong>the</strong><br />
silhouette <strong>of</strong> a massive creature below you. The silhouette<br />
slowly gets more defined as <strong>the</strong> animal inches towards<br />
<strong>the</strong> surface for a breath. Your heart stops beating, your<br />
breathing is paused, <strong>the</strong> only sound you can hear is your<br />
own heart pounding, and every ounce <strong>of</strong> you is focused<br />
on <strong>the</strong> movement—a moment that will leave a permanent<br />
mark on your soul. And just when you think that moment<br />
can’t get more impressionable, her calf comes into focus.<br />
There are really no words that can describe <strong>the</strong> feelings<br />
and emotions <strong>of</strong> that second in time.<br />
When one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se mammoths <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> sea makes eye<br />
contact, you feel <strong>the</strong> awareness and intelligence within<br />
<strong>the</strong>m. You feel <strong>the</strong>ir curiosity about you, and <strong>the</strong>ir gentleness<br />
in your presence. You know instantly that <strong>the</strong>y could<br />
harm you if <strong>the</strong>y chose to, but feel no fear that <strong>the</strong>y will.<br />
Instead, you are filled with a sense <strong>of</strong> peace.<br />
These magnificent animals are North Atlantic<br />
humpback whales and <strong>the</strong>y migrate annually from <strong>the</strong><br />
nor<strong>the</strong>astern United States and Norway, usually starting<br />
around January, down <strong>the</strong> eastern coast, through <strong>the</strong><br />
Bahamas and around <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>, settling<br />
in <strong>the</strong> Silver Bank, Navidad Bank, and Samana Bay<br />
<strong>of</strong>f <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Dominican Republic. The migration’s purpose<br />
is to mate or give birth depending on <strong>the</strong> previous season.<br />
They mate one year and give birth <strong>the</strong> next, and <strong>the</strong><br />
return migration is usually complete by <strong>the</strong> end <strong>of</strong> April.<br />
They come to <strong>the</strong>se whale sanctuaries to mate and<br />
give birth because <strong>the</strong>re are no predators. They are safe<br />
in <strong>the</strong>se shallow banks to teach <strong>the</strong>ir calves how to be<br />
whales and to build <strong>the</strong>ir strength for <strong>the</strong> long migration<br />
back to <strong>the</strong>ir feeding grounds up north.<br />
Humpback whales get <strong>the</strong>ir name from <strong>the</strong> distinct<br />
“hump” in <strong>the</strong>ir back. North Atlantic humpbacks are distinguishable<br />
from o<strong>the</strong>r humpbacks because <strong>the</strong> topside<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir pectoral fins is white, where o<strong>the</strong>rs are black.This<br />
white is very visible in <strong>the</strong> water because it reflects as a<br />
brilliant aquamarine. This is what made it easy for whalers<br />
to hunt <strong>the</strong>m. The space between those two aquamarine<br />
fins was called “<strong>the</strong> hunter’s mark”—if <strong>the</strong>y aimed at that<br />
spot it was almost always a kill. Thankfully <strong>the</strong>se days,<br />
it’s simply a beautiful characteristic <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se creatures<br />
that whale watchers and scientists get to experience.<br />
50 www.timespub.tc
Grand Slam <strong>Times</strong> Winter 2018_Layout 1 11/14/18 8:36 PM Page 1<br />
Humpbacks have <strong>the</strong> longest pectoral fins <strong>of</strong> any<br />
whale, reaching up to one-third <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> length <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
body. Humpback tails, or flukes, are also a way to identify<br />
specific whales. Each tail is different from any o<strong>the</strong>r,<br />
like fingerprints. Where a humpback is white, it will scar<br />
black, and where <strong>the</strong>y are black, it will scar white, making<br />
each one unique. Ano<strong>the</strong>r interesting fact is that each<br />
type <strong>of</strong> whale creates a specific blow, <strong>the</strong> action <strong>of</strong> exhaling<br />
at <strong>the</strong> surface. Very fittingly, <strong>the</strong> humpback’s blow is<br />
in <strong>the</strong> shape <strong>of</strong> a heart created by <strong>the</strong>ir split “nostrils.” As<br />
<strong>the</strong> exhalation pushes air, water, and oily mucus (snot)<br />
into <strong>the</strong> sunlight, it creates a rainbow in <strong>the</strong> mist . . . or<br />
“rainblow.”<br />
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It is incredible to see an adult humpback pec slapping, tail<br />
slapping, and breaching, and when you hear <strong>the</strong> thunderous<br />
boom it makes, you will never forget <strong>the</strong> sound. They<br />
are teaching <strong>the</strong>ir young to be whales—<strong>the</strong>se skills will<br />
streng<strong>the</strong>n <strong>the</strong>m and instill <strong>the</strong> communication related to<br />
each one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se actions. When <strong>the</strong> calves are first learning<br />
<strong>the</strong>y are clumsy and awkward, but when <strong>the</strong>y finally<br />
figure it out <strong>the</strong>y will repeat <strong>the</strong> action over and over and<br />
over again like excited kids who are showing <strong>of</strong>f! So fun<br />
to witness.<br />
The sacrifices <strong>the</strong> females make to endure this<br />
journey are tremendous. Once <strong>the</strong>y reach <strong>the</strong> sanctuaries,<br />
<strong>the</strong>y don’t eat for months because <strong>the</strong>re is no food<br />
source for <strong>the</strong>m. This causes <strong>the</strong>m to lose up to a third<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir body weight, all while feeding <strong>the</strong>ir calves about<br />
150 gallons <strong>of</strong> fat-rich milk a day. They are trying to give<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir calves <strong>the</strong> absolute best chance <strong>of</strong> survival during<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir return migration, where <strong>the</strong>y will encounter many<br />
threats—<strong>the</strong> biggest threat being orcas. Orcas hunt baby<br />
humpbacks and kill <strong>the</strong>m solely to eat <strong>the</strong>ir tongues. The<br />
mo<strong>the</strong>rs know <strong>the</strong>ir calves will have to be strong and have<br />
endurance to survive this journey. O<strong>the</strong>r threats <strong>the</strong>y may<br />
encounter are being struck by ships, entanglement in<br />
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This humpback whale calf is likely learning to breach under its mo<strong>the</strong>r’s watchful eye.<br />
nets and debris, ingesting plastic, and starving if something<br />
happens to <strong>the</strong>ir mo<strong>the</strong>r.<br />
I was privileged to have spent two seasons in <strong>the</strong><br />
Silver Bank, guiding and filming <strong>the</strong>se gentle giants, and<br />
my heart and soul were deeply affected. The harsh reality<br />
is that only about 50% <strong>of</strong> calves survive <strong>the</strong> migration<br />
back. For those <strong>of</strong> us who get to know <strong>the</strong>se whales on a<br />
very personal level, this is a sad truth.<br />
During <strong>the</strong>ir passage around <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos<br />
<strong>Islands</strong> <strong>the</strong> largest numbers come close to Salt Cay, where<br />
you can see <strong>the</strong>m daily from whale watching boats and<br />
from shore, where <strong>the</strong>y are visible breaching. You may<br />
also be lucky enough to have topside encounters and<br />
(possibly) in-water encounters on dives <strong>of</strong>f any <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
islands and cays <strong>the</strong>re.<br />
Even if you don’t see <strong>the</strong>m, you will definitely hear<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir song underwater. It is a beautiful sound that resonates<br />
through your entire body, you feel it in every organ.<br />
There are many speculations as to why <strong>the</strong> males sing—<br />
whe<strong>the</strong>r it’s to attract a mate, to warn o<strong>the</strong>r pursuing<br />
males, or just because <strong>the</strong>y enjoy it. The song changes<br />
a little each year and every seven years <strong>the</strong> song has<br />
changed completely. Hearing this song envelops your<br />
senses. It takes over everything at that moment. You<br />
close your eyes and stop exhaling so you can hear it without<br />
clutter, <strong>the</strong>n open your eyes and try to visually locate<br />
<strong>the</strong> singer, and no o<strong>the</strong>r creature you see at that moment<br />
can thwart your focus on <strong>the</strong> song.<br />
Some say that <strong>the</strong> mythical song <strong>of</strong> mermaids was <strong>the</strong><br />
song <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> humpback and I can see why—it’s mesmeriz-<br />
ing. I have heard <strong>the</strong>ir song many times and I can assure<br />
you that every time you hear it, it moves you as intensely<br />
as <strong>the</strong> first time—it’s beautiful and emotional.<br />
The calves are playful and curious with humans under<br />
<strong>the</strong> watchful eye <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir mo<strong>the</strong>rs and escorts. They will<br />
come in close to snorkelers, pivot and spin and make eye<br />
contact. They are very interested in what <strong>the</strong>se strange<br />
creatures are in <strong>the</strong>ir home. The mo<strong>the</strong>rs and escorts<br />
tend to keep <strong>the</strong>ir distance and let <strong>the</strong> calves explore<br />
as long as <strong>the</strong>y feel comfortable. The feeling <strong>of</strong> having<br />
a 10–15 foot baby approach you, look at you, and connect<br />
on a level that cannot be explained is incredible. You<br />
know you are a tiny piece <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> puzzle <strong>of</strong> life and that<br />
you are experiencing a moment few will ever know. You<br />
will hold on to this moment for <strong>the</strong> rest <strong>of</strong> your life.<br />
Humpback whales are powerful creatures who can<br />
completely launch <strong>the</strong>mselves out <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> water in what<br />
is called a “breach.” They can travel massive distances<br />
using <strong>the</strong>ir fluke to thrust <strong>the</strong>m forward at speeds up to<br />
15 mph. Yet <strong>the</strong>y are so aware <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir body placement<br />
that <strong>the</strong>y can approach you and move <strong>the</strong>ir fins with precision<br />
to not touch you while never changing <strong>the</strong>ir body<br />
position.<br />
Ano<strong>the</strong>r display <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir control and intelligence is<br />
what we refer to as “Rowdies” —a group <strong>of</strong> males pursuing<br />
a single female. The power and determination <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong>se boys are evident in <strong>the</strong>ir displays <strong>of</strong> dominance and<br />
strength as <strong>the</strong>y challenge each o<strong>the</strong>r with massive bouts<br />
<strong>of</strong> “bubble streaming.” This is creating a huge bubble<br />
curtain intended to prevent <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r males from being<br />
52 www.timespub.tc
able to see <strong>the</strong> female, breaking ano<strong>the</strong>r male’s breathing<br />
pattern so he will fall behind to catch his rhythm again,<br />
and by bumping each o<strong>the</strong>r to break stride.<br />
With all this power, <strong>the</strong>y are also very polite suitors.<br />
The female always leads <strong>the</strong> chase, and if or when she<br />
slows down or stops, all <strong>the</strong> males stop and hold <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
position until she moves forward again. There is no evidence<br />
that <strong>the</strong> males ever try to cause mortal injuries to<br />
each o<strong>the</strong>r, but instead engage in fairly gentlemen-like<br />
brawling.<br />
Once a male has been successful in wooing his lady<br />
<strong>of</strong> choice, <strong>the</strong>y start a tender and gentle dance we call <strong>the</strong><br />
“Valentine.” This dance is extremely physical and textile.<br />
The whales use <strong>the</strong>ir pectoral fins to touch each o<strong>the</strong>r,<br />
<strong>the</strong>y rub <strong>the</strong>ir bodies toge<strong>the</strong>r and slowly twirl and move<br />
fluently toge<strong>the</strong>r, keeping contact as if dancing a slow<br />
romantic and passionate dance. (This is <strong>the</strong> equivalent <strong>of</strong><br />
humans holding hands and touching each o<strong>the</strong>r in a sort<br />
<strong>of</strong> foreplay role before <strong>the</strong> mating starts.) There is very<br />
obvious affection and tenderness between <strong>the</strong>se creatures<br />
and it is an absolute honor to witness. They are in<br />
every sense <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> words, Gentle Giants.<br />
Each <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> hundreds <strong>of</strong> encounters I’ve had in<br />
<strong>the</strong> Silver Bank with <strong>the</strong>se creatures is special and has<br />
touched me in very intense emotional ways. The one I<br />
will leave you with is an experience I had on a dive in <strong>the</strong><br />
Turks & Caicos. It is one that I feel with as much emotion,<br />
power, and intensity today as <strong>the</strong> day it occurred.<br />
I was on a dive <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> northwest point <strong>of</strong><br />
Providenciales at a site called Eel Garden. We were about<br />
35–40 minutes into <strong>the</strong> dive and we had made our way<br />
back under <strong>the</strong> boat. The faint sounds <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> songs in<br />
<strong>the</strong> distance had serenaded us <strong>the</strong> entire dive. The sound<br />
comes in and vibrates <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> sheer wall and is easy to<br />
hear. At this point, most divers had already started <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
ascent, so <strong>the</strong>re were only five <strong>of</strong> us still down.<br />
We were on top <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> edge <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> wall when I suddenly<br />
heard <strong>the</strong> song much louder and closer. I moved<br />
out over <strong>the</strong> depths and floated in a state <strong>of</strong> neutral<br />
buoyancy. My vision was suddenly filled with violet blue<br />
movement as a massive school <strong>of</strong> creole wrasse and blue<br />
runners engulfed me. I had dubbed <strong>the</strong>se violet clouds as<br />
“Purple Rain” because <strong>the</strong>y seem to fall from <strong>the</strong> surface<br />
like beautiful raindrops all around you. I looked around at<br />
<strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r divers who had joined me in suspension <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong><br />
wall. We all just floated <strong>the</strong>re, weightless and motionless,<br />
paralyzed by <strong>the</strong> indescribable beauty we were witnessing.<br />
Tears filled my eyes as I watched <strong>the</strong> purple rain and<br />
listened to <strong>the</strong> magical sounds <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> humpback, and <strong>the</strong><br />
one thought that went through my mind was, “If <strong>the</strong>se are<br />
my last moments on Earth, I am at complete peace.”<br />
Even though I could not physically see <strong>the</strong> singer, I<br />
could feel him, and his song moved me because I had<br />
shared <strong>the</strong> whales’ presence and looked <strong>the</strong>m in <strong>the</strong> eye<br />
and understood <strong>the</strong>ir plight. This is <strong>the</strong> magic <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
humpback whale, gentle giants <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> sea.<br />
There are a number <strong>of</strong> land-based whale watching<br />
operators in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos that will take you out for<br />
a chance sighting <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se mammoths <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> sea. Salt<br />
Cay, Grand Turk, and Providenciales are <strong>the</strong> main islands<br />
for whale watching excursions within <strong>the</strong> country.<br />
There are only two places in <strong>the</strong> world where <strong>the</strong>re<br />
are permits to snorkel with <strong>the</strong>se amazing creatures:<br />
<strong>the</strong> Silver Bank and <strong>the</strong> Kingdom <strong>of</strong> Tonga in Polynesia.<br />
In <strong>the</strong> Silver Bank, you can have <strong>the</strong>se experiences with<br />
<strong>the</strong> Turks and Caicos Aggressor II, <strong>the</strong> Turks and Caicos<br />
Explorer, and <strong>the</strong> Belize Aggressor. They have held<br />
permits for years and are very skilled in sharing <strong>the</strong>se<br />
magnificent creatures with guests. They are more than<br />
just “snorkeling with humpback” charters—<strong>the</strong>y are<br />
educational experiences that will empower you to help<br />
protect <strong>the</strong>se amazing animals and <strong>the</strong> oceans <strong>the</strong>y call<br />
home. a<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2019</strong> 53
exploring <strong>the</strong> islands<br />
Opposite page: Salt Cay has <strong>the</strong> TCI’s best preserved salt industry remains. Every pond has <strong>the</strong> low stone walls that divided it into salinas,<br />
where <strong>the</strong> water was gradually evaporated to produce salt.<br />
Above: At Dunscombe Point <strong>the</strong>re is good snorkeling <strong>of</strong>fshore and a late 1700s cannon from <strong>the</strong> wreck <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> HMS Endymion.<br />
Finding <strong>the</strong> Salt <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Earth<br />
Discovering <strong>the</strong> “Old Caribbean” on Salt Cay<br />
Providenciales is an amazing island. It has truly become one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> top vacation destinations for <strong>the</strong><br />
Americas and <strong>the</strong> rest <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> world. With its world-class beaches, restaurants and o<strong>the</strong>r amenities, it<br />
has everything one could desire in a beach location. But <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> are much more than<br />
“Provo.” Many want to experience <strong>the</strong> “old” Caribbean, which is very hard to find on Providenciales but<br />
<strong>the</strong> very essence <strong>of</strong> Salt Cay (www.saltcay.org).<br />
Story & Photos By Mat Matlack<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2019</strong> 55
The Tradewinds Guest Suites are oceanfront, with amazing snorkeling a short walk from your front door.<br />
Getting to Salt Cay<br />
Since hurricanes Irma and Maria in 2017 blasted across<br />
<strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos, <strong>the</strong> outer islands have spent <strong>the</strong><br />
past 18 months rebuilding. We heard that Salt Cay was<br />
ready for visitors again and we weren’t disappointed. The<br />
airport on Salt Cay is limited to smaller planes (a nineseater<br />
to be exact) due to <strong>the</strong> number <strong>of</strong> fire trucks on <strong>the</strong><br />
island. There isn’t direct service from Providenciales on<br />
interCaribbean Airways, so one flies through Grand Turk.<br />
It’s a 40-minute trip with some great views <strong>of</strong> East and<br />
South Caicos from <strong>the</strong> air. Once aboard <strong>the</strong> small Otter<br />
to Salt Cay, <strong>the</strong> flight took three minutes! Caicos Express<br />
Airways may start a direct flight from Providenciales to<br />
Salt Cay later this summer.<br />
Accommodations<br />
We arranged accommodations through Debbie Manos to<br />
stay at Tradewinds Guest Suites (www.tradewinds.tc).<br />
Debbie, an expatriate from Tucson, AZ, picked us up at<br />
<strong>the</strong> airport and took us on a tour <strong>of</strong> Balfour Town, <strong>the</strong><br />
village on Salt Cay. She is a wealth <strong>of</strong> knowledge since she<br />
began visiting in 1990 and eventually moved to <strong>the</strong> isle<br />
in 1996. Debbie was attracted to Salt Cay by <strong>the</strong> amazing<br />
SCUBA diving and world-renowned whale watching, but<br />
kept returning due to <strong>the</strong> friendly, welcoming nature <strong>of</strong><br />
everyone on <strong>the</strong> cay.<br />
Eventually she bought and ran local dive shop Salt<br />
Cay Divers for 23 years and also opened <strong>the</strong> Coral Reef<br />
Bar & Grill where local chef, Enye Guerreir, honed his<br />
skills (more about <strong>the</strong> amazing food in a bit).<br />
Unfortunately, <strong>the</strong> Coral Reef’s building has been<br />
damaged by swells created by Nor’easters that made it<br />
past <strong>the</strong> harbor wall damaged during <strong>the</strong> 2017 hurricanes.<br />
Debbie ran us by one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> three island stores to<br />
pick up some supplies and <strong>the</strong>n showed us to our home<br />
for two nights.<br />
Tradewinds has a lot to <strong>of</strong>fer Salt Cay travelers and<br />
one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most important things is location. You are<br />
oceanfront! Literally, grab your snorkel and fins, walk 10<br />
yards out your front door and you’re feet away from<br />
amazing snorkeling. Tradewinds is also walking distance<br />
to <strong>the</strong> dive shop, Netty’s Variety Store, and favorite island<br />
hangout, Oceanaire Bistro.<br />
Our one-bedroom suite had what we needed to be<br />
comfortable. These suites are well equipped for divers<br />
with a large screened porch to store wet equipment, a<br />
foot bath to clean <strong>the</strong> sand from your feet and a nice seating<br />
area inside, along with a comfortable place to lay your<br />
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head—until tomorrow morning’s adventure on <strong>the</strong> water!<br />
The suites <strong>of</strong>fer a small kitchenette with fridge, toaster<br />
oven, microwave, toaster, c<strong>of</strong>feemaker (c<strong>of</strong>fee included!)<br />
and plenty <strong>of</strong> dishes. The private bath is where you find<br />
<strong>the</strong> sink and large shower with toiletries. The bedroom<br />
had air conditioning available, but with <strong>the</strong> island breeze,<br />
we simply kept our windows open. We also enjoyed Wi-Fi<br />
to check emails, upload to Instagram and watch an episode<br />
or two <strong>of</strong> our favorite sailing vloggers before bed.<br />
The eats<br />
We ate most <strong>of</strong> our meals at Oceanaire Bistro (oceanairebistro.com).<br />
The restaurant is perfectly located in <strong>the</strong><br />
center <strong>of</strong> town just a few hundred feet from <strong>the</strong> dock<br />
and dive shop. It <strong>of</strong>fers open-air dining overlooking <strong>the</strong><br />
historic salinas and <strong>the</strong> screened-in dining rooms enjoy<br />
beautiful ocean breezes too. There is a deck with tables<br />
under palm trees where you can enjoy a cold drink with<br />
breakfast, lunch or dinner and a ro<strong>of</strong>top viewing patio<br />
that provides views <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ocean and most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> island.<br />
Remember Chef Enye? This gentleman’s cooking<br />
skills are only surpassed by his smile. Oceanaire Bistro<br />
<strong>of</strong>fers some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> best dining we’ve had in <strong>the</strong> TCI. His<br />
red snapper with a tomato-based sauce was delightful<br />
and didn’t stand a chance to last on my plate very long.<br />
Shannon, my wife, had <strong>the</strong> cracked conch for our first<br />
meal and raved about how light and tasty <strong>the</strong> breading<br />
was. We, <strong>of</strong> course, had peas ‘n’ rice with our meals which<br />
also included a salad.<br />
Great food is enough for any restaurant. Add good<br />
service and you’ll have a success. When you also include<br />
warm and welcoming personalities to <strong>the</strong> atmosphere—<br />
you are going to have a winner that lasts <strong>the</strong> test <strong>of</strong> time.<br />
Cracked conch and peas ‘n’ rice—it doesn’t get more Turks & Caicos than this—and <strong>the</strong> meal at Oceanaire Bistro was cooked to perfection.<br />
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This view looks towards <strong>the</strong> old Windmills Plantation hotel on North Beach and across <strong>the</strong> channel towards Grand Turk.<br />
Owners Bob and Lynn Knobel were regular visitors to<br />
Salt Cay enjoying <strong>the</strong> diving by day and <strong>the</strong> community<br />
at night. Porter’s Island Thyme was <strong>the</strong> local restaurant<br />
and bar where all <strong>the</strong> divers would ga<strong>the</strong>r to exchange<br />
stories from <strong>the</strong> day and to plan tomorrow’s adventure.<br />
In a strange turn <strong>of</strong> events, Bob and Lynn purchased <strong>the</strong><br />
closed Island Thyme restaurant to be used as <strong>the</strong>ir home.<br />
But, with <strong>the</strong> urging <strong>of</strong> Chef Enye and <strong>the</strong>ir own realization<br />
that Salt Cay’s beloved hangout was gone, <strong>the</strong> couple<br />
decided to reopen <strong>the</strong> space as Oceanaire Bistro. We are<br />
so happy <strong>the</strong>y did.<br />
The adventures<br />
We really underestimated all <strong>the</strong>re would be to do on<br />
<strong>the</strong> island. We aren’t certified divers (yet) and we didn’t<br />
have our snorkel gear with us—<strong>the</strong> water was probably<br />
too cold this time <strong>of</strong> year for Shannon, anyhow. So, what<br />
could we do with 36 hours on this tiny island?<br />
After our morning c<strong>of</strong>fee, we took our golf cart that<br />
Debbie had arranged for us all over <strong>the</strong> island. We had<br />
several must-see’s on our list and began knocking <strong>the</strong>m<br />
out at a pace that allowed us to soak in <strong>the</strong> vibe <strong>of</strong> everywhere<br />
we went with intentionality.<br />
Windmills Plantation hotel<br />
We’re a sucker for a beautiful beach, so headed to <strong>the</strong><br />
old Windmills Plantation hotel ruins on North Beach. The<br />
resort was destroyed in 2008 by Hurricane Ike. But, oh<br />
my, this beach is gorgeous. We could see a cruise ship<br />
across <strong>the</strong> channel docked on Grand Turk. (There are<br />
no signs <strong>of</strong> cruise ships on Salt Cay and as Debbie likes<br />
to say, “We have no C’s. No cruise ships, no crime, no<br />
crowds, no casinos.”) It was sad to see <strong>the</strong> devastation <strong>of</strong><br />
this hotel. We found some pictures <strong>of</strong> it online during its<br />
heyday and it was beautiful.<br />
Dunscombe Point<br />
Dunscombe Point <strong>of</strong>fers some great snorkeling right <strong>of</strong>f<br />
<strong>the</strong> shore. There are rock formations and a nice area<br />
to picnic on <strong>the</strong> beach. Also at this location is a Haitian<br />
boat that wrecked on <strong>the</strong> island a few months ago. The<br />
incident made international news and created quite <strong>the</strong><br />
surprise for local residents when dozens <strong>of</strong> new faces<br />
showed up on <strong>the</strong> island.<br />
Flamingos<br />
We understand <strong>the</strong>re are about 36 different types <strong>of</strong> birds<br />
on <strong>the</strong> island. Birdwatching is a favorite thing to do for<br />
many Salt Cay travelers. The eastern side <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> island is<br />
where <strong>the</strong> North Creek and South Creek converge into<br />
shallow waters. We passed by <strong>the</strong> 1795 Government<br />
House on our way to find dozens <strong>of</strong> flamingos at “<strong>the</strong><br />
creek.” We loved watching <strong>the</strong> waves crash against <strong>the</strong><br />
rocks protecting <strong>the</strong> inland waterways and viewing <strong>the</strong><br />
beaches literally made <strong>of</strong> millions <strong>of</strong> seashells.<br />
Taylor Hill<br />
One <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> highest points on <strong>the</strong> island is Taylor Hill. The<br />
58 www.timespub.tc
oad is a bit rough to get <strong>the</strong>re, but our golf cart handled<br />
it well. The small hike up <strong>the</strong> hill was well worth it<br />
once we saw <strong>the</strong> views and <strong>the</strong> ruins were mysterious. It<br />
appears to have been some kind <strong>of</strong> plantation with hundreds<br />
<strong>of</strong> man-hours spent clearing <strong>the</strong> land and building<br />
bordering fences with <strong>the</strong> rocks. There are about a dozen<br />
rock mounds that are all <strong>the</strong> same size. Our inquiry <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> locals revealed no concrete information on what <strong>the</strong><br />
purpose <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> mounds were. Burial mounds? Signal fires?<br />
Voodoo rituals? Alien communiques? These require more<br />
investigation.<br />
Pirate Graves<br />
There is a very nice home on <strong>the</strong> island that has built<br />
its property wall in a strange arch shape. This was done<br />
in order to go around some existing graves that are<br />
rumored to be <strong>of</strong> pirates. No one knows who is, in fact,<br />
buried <strong>the</strong>re. The three graves are <strong>of</strong> different sizes and<br />
could be a man, a woman and possibly a child. You’ll<br />
pass by <strong>the</strong>se above-ground graves on your way to <strong>the</strong><br />
old lighthouse site on <strong>the</strong> northwest point.<br />
Lighthouse<br />
The lighthouse is long gone and barely any ruins remain<br />
to mark its previous location. However, <strong>the</strong>re is a newly<br />
installed wooden post on top <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> hill which appears<br />
to be <strong>the</strong> highest point on <strong>the</strong> island. Nearby is a canon<br />
perched on <strong>the</strong> edge <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> cliff. The ground isn’t very<br />
stable <strong>the</strong>re and it was recommended not to get too<br />
close. This remains one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> spots on <strong>the</strong> island needing<br />
attention after <strong>the</strong> hurricane. We understand that <strong>the</strong><br />
primary school and government buildings are earmarked<br />
to receive government assistance, along with <strong>the</strong> harbor<br />
which is vital to <strong>the</strong> community <strong>of</strong> Salt Cay. We were also<br />
told that Beaches Resorts may be providing support to<br />
get <strong>the</strong> community ga<strong>the</strong>ring space back in shape, but<br />
this has not been confirmed.<br />
Salt Cay Days celebration<br />
We left <strong>the</strong> morning that begins <strong>the</strong> annual Salt Cay Days<br />
celebration. This weekend event brings visitors from<br />
o<strong>the</strong>r islands to enjoy great music, wonderful eats and<br />
<strong>the</strong> charm <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> old Caribbean.<br />
Getting home<br />
Again, our fantastic host Debbie Manos gave us a ride to<br />
<strong>the</strong> airport, along with her dogs, including Zorro <strong>the</strong> potcake.<br />
Our only regret is not having more time. We wish we<br />
could have had a few hours <strong>of</strong> beach time on <strong>the</strong> North<br />
The donkeys that roam across Salt Cay are descendants <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> animals<br />
that worked during <strong>the</strong> salt producing days.<br />
Beach and snorkeling on <strong>the</strong> reef. We wanted to stop by<br />
to meet <strong>the</strong> lady who still makes salt right from <strong>the</strong> salinas<br />
and we hoped to spend time with Tim, a descendent<br />
<strong>of</strong> some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> original salt plantation owners. He is currently<br />
renovating <strong>the</strong> family home (<strong>the</strong> White House). The<br />
entire bottom floor was where <strong>the</strong> salt was kept and <strong>the</strong><br />
family lived on <strong>the</strong> upper floor.<br />
So, break away from <strong>the</strong> norm for a few days to visit<br />
Salt Cay. (Unless you are a diver or whale watcher — <strong>the</strong>n,<br />
you’re going to need at least a week.) Whale watching<br />
season is mid-January through mid-April and <strong>the</strong> island<br />
now boasts two companies providing tours to see <strong>the</strong><br />
humpbacks. Dickenson’s store is well stocked where we<br />
found bottled water, almond milk and macaroon cookies!<br />
Bring a sack <strong>of</strong> carrots for <strong>the</strong> wild donkeys. They will<br />
love you for it, but don’t leave <strong>the</strong>m unattended on your<br />
golf cart. We learned that <strong>the</strong> hard way! a<br />
Mat and Shannon Matlack hail from Columbia, Missouri.<br />
Avid world travelers and vloggers, <strong>the</strong> couple has focused<br />
on <strong>the</strong> Caribbean in recent years. They adopted two potcakes<br />
and have a love for island dogs plus a passion for<br />
protecting <strong>the</strong> ocean’s fragile, yet extremely important,<br />
ecosystem. Their five-year-old daughter sometimes joins<br />
<strong>the</strong>m on <strong>the</strong> adventures. (Visit TheMatlacks.org).<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2019</strong> 59
faces and places<br />
From left: This budding local DJ from <strong>the</strong> Edward Gartland Youth Centre is learning <strong>the</strong> ropes with DJ Munro and Caribbean House Evolution<br />
founder Johnny Legend. The festival also welcomes Silky who has established a sterling reputation as an artist through an impressive catalogue<br />
<strong>of</strong> releases and a long list <strong>of</strong> club and festival appearances.<br />
Caribbean House Evolution <strong>2019</strong><br />
It’s year seven for this four-day house music festival here in Turks & Caicos, held on July 18–21, <strong>2019</strong>. The festival<br />
celebrates friends, vacations and house music. Evolving from a small private series <strong>of</strong> parties in 2012, it now attracts<br />
international DJs, as well as providing <strong>the</strong> local community and visitors with house music from around <strong>the</strong> world.<br />
Sponsors include Larry Klein Productions, The Hartling Group, Grace Bay Resorts, Royal West Indies, Somewhere<br />
Café and Lounge, Kalooki’s, Wymara Resort and Villas, IGA, The Wine Cellar, Panoply, Glow, Blufin and more. It all<br />
starts with <strong>the</strong> DJ Workshop for kids from <strong>the</strong> Edward Gartland Youth Centre and VIP Opening Party at The Shore Club.<br />
Next is <strong>the</strong> Club Night Party at Sandbox, a Yoga Brunch Session and Sunset Mix at Somewhere Café and Lounge, a<br />
dinner at Wymara, and <strong>the</strong> ultimate Private Island Beach Party at Water Cay on <strong>the</strong> final day.<br />
Founder Johnny Legend says, “I’m so thankful to have <strong>the</strong> support <strong>of</strong> local businesses and proud to see <strong>the</strong> festival<br />
grow year on year. For me, music makes all things possible. Each year I introduce new acts and talent found locally and<br />
internationally and I’m always overwhelmed by <strong>the</strong> response and energy. Funds raised in <strong>2019</strong> will go towards music<br />
equipment for <strong>the</strong> Edward Gartland Youth Centre’s planned music studio. As someone who used music as an escape<br />
From left: New to <strong>the</strong> festival for <strong>2019</strong>, DJ Rashida has played her signature fusion <strong>of</strong> hip-hop, funk, soul, dancehall<br />
and house around <strong>the</strong> globe. Local children are eager to learn so <strong>the</strong>y can follow in her footsteps.<br />
60 www.timespub.tc<br />
in my youth, I<br />
understand<br />
its<br />
healing powers. I<br />
can’t wait to see<br />
how <strong>the</strong>se talented<br />
kids use <strong>the</strong> equipment<br />
and studio<br />
to create beautiful<br />
music <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
own.” For more<br />
information, visit<br />
www.caribbeanhouseevolution.<br />
com.<br />
Photos Courtesy<br />
Caribbean House<br />
Evolution
astrolabe<br />
newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />
front street, p.o. box 188, grand turk, turks & caicos islands, bwi<br />
tel 649 946 2160 • fax 649 946 2160 • email info@tcmuseum.org • web www.tcmuseum.org<br />
One Big Journey<br />
By Michael P. Pateman, Ph.D., Director, Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />
Over <strong>the</strong> last year, a lot <strong>of</strong> space<br />
has been dedicated to <strong>the</strong> development<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> new museum in<br />
Providenciales. That journey has<br />
focused on <strong>the</strong> physical building,<br />
<strong>the</strong> role and importance <strong>of</strong> museums<br />
in communities, and <strong>the</strong><br />
future <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> National Museum<br />
building. However, <strong>the</strong>re has not<br />
been much discussion <strong>of</strong> what will<br />
be displayed <strong>the</strong>re.<br />
Under <strong>the</strong> concept “Five<br />
Galleries, One Big Journey,” <strong>the</strong><br />
new museum will display a wide<br />
variety <strong>of</strong> Turks & Caicos history,<br />
heritage and culture in <strong>the</strong> space <strong>of</strong><br />
five galleries:<br />
Entrance and Welcome; Natural<br />
History; Pre-Columbian; Transatlantic Slave Trade and Modern Ethnography.<br />
The stories presented in our galleries intend to take visitors beyond <strong>the</strong> beach to a curious place,<br />
where <strong>the</strong>y can keep exploring. The exhibitions housed here will change periodically as <strong>the</strong> Museum<br />
embraces collaborations with fellow institutions and as it seeks to enhance community relations.<br />
A huge part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> new museum is <strong>the</strong> development <strong>of</strong> an educational space. We intend to use <strong>the</strong><br />
emerging technology <strong>of</strong> virtual reality to create digital exhibitions and digital learning experiences. Over<br />
<strong>the</strong> next several editions <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Astrolabe, we will expand on <strong>the</strong> details. We haven’t abandoned Grand<br />
Turk! New and enhanced exhibits are also planned for <strong>the</strong> Grand Turk museum as well.<br />
In this edition <strong>of</strong> Astrolabe, <strong>the</strong> feature article discusses <strong>the</strong> Museum’s new oral history initiative.<br />
This project seeks to allow Islanders to tell <strong>the</strong>ir story in <strong>the</strong>ir own words. The second article is a collaborative<br />
project with <strong>the</strong> Museum and longtime contributor Dr. Shaun Sullivan on <strong>the</strong> Lucayans in <strong>the</strong><br />
Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />
This is indeed an exciting time to be a part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum! a<br />
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astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />
Alton Higgs, “Da Bush Doctor” from Middle Caicos, shared his extensive knowledge <strong>of</strong> bush medicine as part <strong>of</strong> “People <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>,” <strong>the</strong><br />
TCI National Museum’s new oral history/ethnography project.<br />
MICHAEL PATEMAN<br />
Bold & Unapologetic<br />
People <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> in front <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> lens.<br />
By Michael P. Pateman and Vanessa A. Pateman<br />
“People <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>” is <strong>the</strong> National Museum’s new oral history/ethnography program. This project<br />
seeks to tell <strong>the</strong> story <strong>of</strong> “Islanders” <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Bahama Archipelago through <strong>the</strong>ir own voice, with a first person<br />
narrative. Oral histories are stories that living individuals tell about <strong>the</strong>ir past, or <strong>the</strong> past <strong>of</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r people.<br />
The purpose <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Museum’s research is to attempt to understand what is happening naturally and to<br />
interpret <strong>the</strong> data ga<strong>the</strong>red to see what implications could be formed regarding <strong>the</strong> culture and heritage<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Bahamas and Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />
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MICHAEL PATEMAN<br />
Background linkage<br />
The first island <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> archipelago (Eleu<strong>the</strong>ra, in <strong>the</strong><br />
Bahamas) was settled by Bermudians looking for religious<br />
freedom in 1647. It wasn’t until 1681 that salt rakers<br />
from Bermuda seasonally settled Grand Turk to begin salt<br />
raking. In 1766 <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos were a part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
Bahama colony and was placed under <strong>the</strong> administration<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Bahamian Government. Attempts to integrate <strong>the</strong><br />
two distinct communities failed, and in 1874 after <strong>the</strong><br />
Great Bahama Hurricane devastated much <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> archipelago,<br />
<strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> became a dependency<br />
to <strong>the</strong> British Crown Colony <strong>of</strong> Jamaica. After Jamaican<br />
independence in 1962, <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos returned to<br />
Bahamian control until Bahamian independence in 1973.<br />
Although <strong>the</strong> island groups have remained separate<br />
administratively (Grand Turk continued as <strong>the</strong> administrative<br />
capital <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos during Bahamian<br />
governance), <strong>the</strong>re are many cultural and familiar relationships<br />
between <strong>the</strong> islands. Additionally, <strong>the</strong>re have<br />
been multiple migratory periods <strong>of</strong> large amounts <strong>of</strong> people<br />
between <strong>the</strong> island groups. As a result, Bahamians<br />
and “Belongers” share similar ancestry, cultural traditions,<br />
food and dialect. Presently, <strong>the</strong>re are no studies<br />
that explore <strong>the</strong>se relationships—<strong>the</strong>refore both island<br />
group claim to be <strong>the</strong> original home <strong>of</strong> multiple forms <strong>of</strong><br />
cultural expressions that are only found in <strong>the</strong> Bahama<br />
archipelago in its present form.<br />
Boat building, sailing and navigation<br />
Everyone learned to swim, build model boats on <strong>the</strong> bay<br />
outside <strong>the</strong>ir homes and eventually graduated to building<br />
or sailing larger Caicos sloops. For almost 300 years,<br />
<strong>the</strong> inhabitants <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> depended<br />
on small sloops for <strong>the</strong>ir commerce, fishing and transportation.<br />
These native boats have generally been small<br />
because <strong>of</strong> limitations imposed on <strong>the</strong>m by <strong>the</strong> shallow<br />
waters surrounding <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> and <strong>the</strong> scarcity <strong>of</strong> suitable<br />
native wood.<br />
The largest <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se sloops were approximately 30<br />
feet overall and were used to haul local products such as<br />
salt, dried conch and sisal to ships anchored <strong>of</strong>fshore.<br />
Additionally, <strong>the</strong>se sloops were used for inter-island<br />
transportation. They regularly traveled to Haiti, <strong>the</strong><br />
Dominican Republic and <strong>the</strong> Bahamas.<br />
Changing commercial needs and modern transportation<br />
between <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> have made <strong>the</strong> native sloops all<br />
Boat building was crucial to <strong>the</strong> development <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos<br />
<strong>Islands</strong>. From top: Headley Forbes shares a photo <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> last boat he<br />
built. James Dean, a master boat builder from Blue Hills, Providenciales<br />
also participated in <strong>the</strong> Museum’s project.<br />
VANESSA PATEMAN<br />
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but obsolete. With this change, <strong>the</strong> skills associated with<br />
construction and sailing such craft are now possessed by<br />
only a handful <strong>of</strong> men scattered throughout <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />
MICHAEL PATEMAN<br />
MICHAEL PATEMAN<br />
Medicine, music and much more<br />
There was no hospital on <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> until recently, so<br />
people used indigenous medicine to heal <strong>the</strong> sick and<br />
wounded. This “bush medicine” was made from herbs,<br />
plants, barks, roots and sometimes animal products.<br />
The various concoctions are said to have abilities ranging<br />
from curing <strong>the</strong> common cold, improving <strong>the</strong> chances<br />
<strong>of</strong> getting pregnant, and even curing cancer. This island<br />
knowledge was passed down through <strong>the</strong> generations.<br />
Not only was bush medicine passed down through<br />
generational knowledge, but ways <strong>of</strong> storytelling—specifically<br />
musical traditions—were shared. This musical<br />
cultural expression is originally known as Ripsaw. Oral<br />
tradition in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos says that it originated<br />
in <strong>the</strong>se islands and spread to nearby islands such as<br />
<strong>the</strong> Bahamas and has been rebranded as Rake-n-Scrape.<br />
Bahamian oral tradition tells <strong>the</strong> story in reverse, that<br />
Rake-n-Scrape originated in <strong>the</strong> Bahamas, especially Cat<br />
Island, and spread to <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos. People <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
<strong>Islands</strong> will explore <strong>the</strong>se stories fur<strong>the</strong>r. While we might<br />
not solve <strong>the</strong> mystery <strong>of</strong> where Ripsaw or Rake-n-Scrape<br />
originated, we will explore <strong>the</strong> unique sounds <strong>of</strong> both<br />
musical forms as told by <strong>the</strong> musicians <strong>the</strong>mselves.<br />
Engaging <strong>the</strong> community<br />
This project helps to fulfill one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> major goals <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
Museum—engaging <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos community. One<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> resulting end products, <strong>the</strong> “People <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>”<br />
ethnography film, is a way for <strong>the</strong> Museum to present and<br />
show understanding <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> cultural heritage <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> TCI<br />
from <strong>the</strong> inside out, as we give a voice to <strong>the</strong> people who<br />
have shaped <strong>the</strong> country. This documentary will include<br />
dialect via recorded speech by people in <strong>the</strong> community.<br />
When this speech is in a language unfamiliar or unclear to<br />
<strong>the</strong> intended film audience, <strong>the</strong> producers generally use<br />
voice-over translation or subtitles.<br />
“People <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>” will be a description <strong>of</strong> TCI<br />
culture and traditions with a focus on <strong>the</strong> people who<br />
Opposite page from top: Musician and songwriter Lovey Forbes is one<br />
<strong>of</strong> TCI’s cultural icons. Here he is performing at <strong>the</strong> Valentine’s Cup<br />
Model Boat Races in <strong>2019</strong>. Grand Turk native Shirley Brown is a former<br />
nurse and dancer. Museum Director Michael Pateman interviews<br />
Lovie Forbes for <strong>the</strong> “People <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>” project.<br />
VANESSA PATEMAN<br />
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live within <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>, including <strong>the</strong>ir personal adaptation,<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir success and an understanding <strong>of</strong> how culture<br />
shaped this. In as much as cultures are constantly changing,<br />
<strong>the</strong> history and context (interrelated issues, settings,<br />
environment and social relationships) play important<br />
roles in <strong>the</strong> lives <strong>of</strong> individuals in determining <strong>the</strong> webs<br />
<strong>of</strong> significance. Ethnographic research is also done in an<br />
attempt to discover patterns in human behavior. One <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> main advantages <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> documentary is that it will<br />
help <strong>the</strong> Museum to identify and analyze research data.<br />
We’re conducting o<strong>the</strong>r types <strong>of</strong> studies, which are not<br />
based on in-situ observation or interaction.<br />
According to <strong>the</strong> American Anthropological<br />
Association, “Anthropologists . . . have obligations to<br />
<strong>the</strong> scholarly discipline, to <strong>the</strong> wider society and culture,<br />
and to <strong>the</strong> human species, o<strong>the</strong>r species, and <strong>the</strong> environment.”<br />
Ethnography is <strong>the</strong> bread and butter <strong>of</strong> social<br />
(and cultural) anthropological analyses and <strong>the</strong>ories. That<br />
is also why most sociocultural anthropologists do fieldwork.<br />
Life as a Belonger<br />
There’s an enduring story to be told from <strong>the</strong> perspective<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> bold people, called “Belongers,” who carved<br />
out a living within <strong>the</strong>se <strong>Islands</strong>. They contributed to <strong>the</strong><br />
economic growth and development by <strong>the</strong> sweat <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
brows and <strong>the</strong> art <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir hands. Through <strong>the</strong> knowledge<br />
and wisdom <strong>of</strong> bush medicine <strong>the</strong>y healed <strong>the</strong>mselves,<br />
passing all this heritage from one generation to <strong>the</strong> next.<br />
They left an indelible legacy that must not only be told,<br />
but preserved for <strong>the</strong> future.<br />
We will continue to share <strong>the</strong> results <strong>of</strong> this project<br />
in future editions <strong>of</strong> Astrolabe, social media channels<br />
and ultimately in new exhibitions in both Grand Turk and<br />
Providenciales. Everyone has a story to tell and it is our<br />
goal to collect <strong>the</strong>se stories. a<br />
Museum Matters<br />
Community involvement<br />
Community is defined as a feeling <strong>of</strong> fellowship with<br />
o<strong>the</strong>rs as a result <strong>of</strong> sharing common attitudes, interests<br />
and goals; a group <strong>of</strong> people living in <strong>the</strong> same<br />
place or having a particular characteristic in common.<br />
One <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> main objects <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National<br />
Museum is to promote community involvement with<br />
cooperation, respect and participation. The Museum<br />
is where we want to create a place for <strong>the</strong> community<br />
to have a feeling <strong>of</strong> belonging and gain knowledge <strong>of</strong><br />
why <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> are like <strong>the</strong>y are, who has lived here in<br />
<strong>the</strong> past and what <strong>the</strong>y did and why.<br />
Our mission statement lends itself to <strong>the</strong> very<br />
meaning <strong>of</strong> community: “The Turks & Caicos National<br />
Museum is a not for pr<strong>of</strong>it organization aimed at<br />
recording, interpreting, preserving and celebrating <strong>the</strong><br />
history <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> and its people.”<br />
We <strong>of</strong>fer several community events at both locations<br />
on an annual basis.<br />
Grand Turk children’s club<br />
Sponsored by sales <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> children’s book, Where is<br />
Simon, Sandy?, written by Donna Seim, <strong>the</strong> club is held<br />
monthly on Grand Turk. Activities include art, crafts<br />
If you have a recommendation for an interviewee<br />
for “People <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>,” please send us an email at<br />
info@tcmuseum.org.<br />
and projects that focus on <strong>the</strong> culture, nature, environment<br />
and history <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos.<br />
The goal is for <strong>the</strong> children to have fun while learning<br />
more about <strong>the</strong>ir past, present and future. Over<br />
<strong>the</strong> last few months, <strong>the</strong> Children’s Club has presented<br />
storytelling, learning facts about sea life, drawing, coloring<br />
and painting. During <strong>the</strong> school break in April<br />
(continued on page 70)<br />
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Clockwise from top: The South Bank site excavation team included<br />
local volunteers and students, along with archaeologist Dr. Shaun<br />
Sullivan (far right). The circular impressions on this pot sherd are<br />
a decorative motif from <strong>the</strong> late ceramic period in northwestern<br />
Hispaniola, indicating trade with <strong>the</strong> Lucayans at <strong>the</strong> South Bank site.<br />
Students from <strong>the</strong> BWI Collegiate joined in <strong>the</strong> excavation.<br />
To <strong>the</strong> Rescue<br />
Community teamwork investigates early island culture.<br />
By Dr. Shaun D. Sullivan and Dr. Michael P. Pateman ~ Photos Courtesy Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />
In <strong>the</strong> fall <strong>of</strong> 2018, local volunteers and students came toge<strong>the</strong>r in a community effort to record a key part<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> culture <strong>of</strong> early Turks & Caicos Islanders. They came from nearby homes and schools to search out,<br />
sort and sift ancient artifacts and food remains from <strong>the</strong> South Bank archaeological site on <strong>the</strong> western<br />
shore <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Juba Sound estuary.<br />
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Evidence <strong>of</strong> prehistoric human occupation <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> area<br />
around Juba Point was first reported by Theodoor De Booy<br />
in <strong>the</strong> early 1900s. He was exploring <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> on behalf<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Heye Museum <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> American Indian in New York<br />
when he found pre-Columbian ceramics and stone artifacts<br />
in caves above <strong>the</strong> sound behind Long Bay.<br />
Exploring <strong>the</strong> area downhill from <strong>the</strong> caves in 1976,<br />
archaeologist Shaun Sullivan came upon Amerindian<br />
ceramics and shell food remains in a grassy area alongside<br />
<strong>the</strong> original channel for <strong>the</strong> Caicos Marina, and followed<br />
up with text excavation <strong>the</strong>re in early 1977.<br />
The site was originally recorded as Providenciales–1,<br />
and has come to be renamed <strong>the</strong> South Bank site.<br />
Radiocarbon dating <strong>of</strong> charcoal from a firepit encountered<br />
in 1977 provided a calibrated date <strong>of</strong> AD 1328 +/– 49<br />
years. Imported ceramics encountered indicated contact<br />
with <strong>the</strong> Amerindians in <strong>the</strong> Greater Antilles. Locally<br />
made ceramics, Palmetto Ware, were common, classifying<br />
this as a local settled culture, i.e., a Lucayan village site.<br />
Bone remains analyzed at <strong>the</strong> Florida Museum <strong>of</strong> Natural<br />
History demonstrated exploitation <strong>of</strong> fish from <strong>the</strong> estuary<br />
and near shore environments.<br />
More than 40 years later in <strong>the</strong> spring <strong>of</strong> 2018, Sullivan<br />
and Beluga catamaran captain Tim Ainley returned to<br />
<strong>the</strong> site and found it remarkably undisturbed, in spite<br />
<strong>of</strong> intervening development surrounding it. A local resident,<br />
Kathi Barrington, wandered by with her dog, and<br />
advised that <strong>the</strong> site was soon to be converted to housing<br />
and a marina. Concerned by <strong>the</strong> pending loss <strong>of</strong> cultural<br />
remains, <strong>the</strong> developers were contacted.<br />
Coming to appreciate <strong>the</strong> value <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> site, Windward<br />
Long Bay Development Ltd., via Ingo Reckhorn, generously<br />
agreed to fund <strong>the</strong> bulk <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> cost excavations<br />
and analysis to capture key information about <strong>the</strong> ancient<br />
culture while <strong>the</strong>re was still time. Additional funding and<br />
support came from <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos Reef Fund, <strong>the</strong><br />
Anthropological Research Council and Sail Beluga.<br />
A rapid effort was made to inform <strong>the</strong> local community<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> site’s value and recruit participants in <strong>the</strong><br />
rescue archaeology effort. We teamed up with Michael<br />
Pateman and Candianne Williams <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos<br />
National Museum and reached out to Ethlyn Gibbs <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
Turks & Caicos National Trust; Ludmila Fulford <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> TCI<br />
Department <strong>of</strong> Education; Nicole Caesar, Lormeka Williams<br />
and Eric Salamanca <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> TCI Department <strong>of</strong> Environment<br />
and Coastal Resources, Agile LeVin <strong>of</strong> Visit TCI and Sylvia<br />
Part <strong>of</strong> each day’s work by students and volunteers at <strong>the</strong> South Bank<br />
site included screening excavated soil to uncover artifacts.<br />
Wigglesworth <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> BWI Collegiate.<br />
In early October, with a community outreach response<br />
<strong>of</strong> a dozen local adult residents and several bright and<br />
energetic students from <strong>the</strong> Collegiate, we launched our<br />
effort to capture <strong>the</strong> information locked in <strong>the</strong> earth. We<br />
began each day ga<strong>the</strong>red around our artifact-sorting tables<br />
in <strong>the</strong> shade <strong>of</strong> a high canopy to discuss <strong>the</strong> practical<br />
tasks ahead for that day, as well as <strong>the</strong> broader <strong>the</strong>ories<br />
surrounding what we were doing. We discussed <strong>the</strong> prehistory<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>; Lucayan and Taino Indian cultures;<br />
ancient human migrations; anthropology; archaeology;<br />
and <strong>the</strong> roles <strong>of</strong> museums and <strong>of</strong> public participation in<br />
research to assist in creating a sense <strong>of</strong> cultural continuity<br />
with <strong>the</strong> past. There were a lot <strong>of</strong> questions, and <strong>the</strong> lively<br />
discussions that ensued helped give meaning to our findings<br />
during <strong>the</strong> excavations.<br />
The youngsters who participated enlivened <strong>the</strong><br />
enterprise considerably. They were enthusiastic and<br />
good-natured. They kibitzed and sang while <strong>the</strong>y worked.<br />
We hosted field trips to <strong>the</strong> archaeological site for more<br />
than half a dozen local elementary and secondary schools,<br />
representatives <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> press, local <strong>of</strong>ficials and Governor<br />
Freeman. The visiting students were curious and asked<br />
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From top: Museum Director Dr. Michael Pateman worked to excavate<br />
and sample <strong>the</strong> unusual black earth deposit. It may have been manmade,<br />
<strong>the</strong> result <strong>of</strong> prehistoric “composting.”<br />
good questions. Some expressed interest in becoming<br />
archaeologists in <strong>the</strong> future. Community engagement was<br />
a strong part <strong>of</strong> our plan, and <strong>the</strong> interaction with schools<br />
and students was an important element <strong>of</strong> our networking<br />
activities.<br />
We dug a score <strong>of</strong> test pits across <strong>the</strong> site to determine<br />
<strong>the</strong> distribution <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> subsurface deposits, and<br />
used those results to chose two particularly rich areas,<br />
one north and one south, for controlled excavations. We<br />
cut down carefully, layer by layer, screening and mapping<br />
<strong>the</strong> deposits and artifacts we encountered, with <strong>the</strong> students<br />
and volunteers learning to classify and make note <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> materials recovered. We recorded ceramics by number<br />
sherds and weight, distinguishing between locally made<br />
Palmetto Ware and imported ceramics from <strong>the</strong> Greater<br />
Antilles to <strong>the</strong> south; obtained charcoal for radiocarbon<br />
dating; preserved animal bones and identified <strong>the</strong> number<br />
and species <strong>of</strong> shell remains. We photographed all <strong>the</strong><br />
artifacts.<br />
In both <strong>the</strong> north and south excavation areas we<br />
quickly encountered distinctive concentrations <strong>of</strong> carbon-stained,<br />
burned and cracked limestone mixed with<br />
broken conch shells. We have come to recognize <strong>the</strong>se as<br />
“earth ovens” which were open pit, broken stone and shell<br />
lined cooking areas, which are a form <strong>of</strong> Lucayan cultural<br />
deposit that is widely distributed in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos<br />
and <strong>the</strong> Bahamas.<br />
The nor<strong>the</strong>rn excavation produced some intriguing<br />
soil layers (strata). Working downward, a few centimeters<br />
from <strong>the</strong> surface we encountered a thin layer <strong>of</strong> very pale<br />
soil, a mixture <strong>of</strong> sand and marl, which appeared to have<br />
been carried in from <strong>the</strong> local estuary and spread on <strong>the</strong><br />
surface. It would have produced a smooth walking surface<br />
for <strong>the</strong> Lucayans.<br />
That pale layer capped living debris (midden) that<br />
quickly transitioned to exceptionally black soil. It was so<br />
black it was literally <strong>of</strong>f our soil color chart. The earth<br />
ovens are dark, but this was darker. Without claiming<br />
exact duplication, we note that in lowland South America<br />
at prehistoric sites <strong>the</strong>re are commonly found man-made<br />
(anthropogenic) soils that are very dark; <strong>the</strong>se man-made<br />
soils are termed “terra preta” or “Indian earth.” These terra<br />
preta soils are <strong>the</strong> result <strong>of</strong> intentional composting. We<br />
took samples <strong>of</strong> this black soil from South Bank for analysis.<br />
Michael Pateman focused <strong>the</strong> excavation effort in <strong>the</strong><br />
nor<strong>the</strong>rn sector on sampling and defining this black earth<br />
feature.<br />
We found ceramic fragments scattered throughout<br />
<strong>the</strong> deposits. We always study ceramics because <strong>the</strong>y<br />
are sturdy and endure. They have stylistic traits in <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
form and decoration that evolve through time and spread<br />
through space via trade and <strong>the</strong> sharing <strong>of</strong> styles, which<br />
are passed down and across from potter to potter.<br />
One decorative motif on imported ceramics <strong>of</strong> note<br />
was wide punctation (circular impressions). This was<br />
found on ceramics excavated in 1977 and in our October<br />
2018 dig. Similar decoration was noted on ceramics recovered<br />
by De Booy over a century earlier at <strong>the</strong> nearby Juba<br />
Point caves, and a nearly identical decoration was found<br />
on imported ceramics at a contemporaneous site on<br />
Middle Caicos, site MC-12. That decorative motif is known<br />
from <strong>the</strong> late ceramic period in northwestern Hispaniola.<br />
That zone may <strong>the</strong>refore have been included in <strong>the</strong> trade<br />
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astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />
network <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Lucayans at <strong>the</strong> South Bank site.<br />
Today we have methods for extracting information<br />
about diet from ceramics and shell remains. Microscopic<br />
silicon structures from plants (phytoliths) as well as starch<br />
grains, fat remains (lipids) and pollen remain adhered to<br />
some ceramic and shell specimens. We carefully preserved<br />
unwashed ceramics and shells from <strong>the</strong> South Bank site<br />
for such analysis, which is ongoing at <strong>the</strong> University <strong>of</strong><br />
North Carolina at Wilmington (UNCW) and at <strong>the</strong> Florida<br />
Museum <strong>of</strong> Natural History (FMNH). Among <strong>the</strong> shells<br />
being analyzed at FMNH are clam shells, Codakia orbicularis,<br />
that show edge chipping from when <strong>the</strong>y were<br />
used for scraping, quite possibly for scraping <strong>the</strong> skins <strong>of</strong><br />
tubers, such as manioc.<br />
Locally made Palmetto Ware ceramics have crushed<br />
shell inclusions (tempering) in <strong>the</strong> clay that help bind<br />
it toge<strong>the</strong>r. Coming from <strong>the</strong> volcanic origin islands to<br />
The edge <strong>of</strong> this clam shell, Codakia orbicularis, shows that it was<br />
likely used for scraping <strong>the</strong> skins <strong>of</strong> tubers, such as manioc.<br />
<strong>the</strong> south, Cuba and Hispaniola, imported ceramics we<br />
encounter contain igneous and metamorphic grit tempering.<br />
In order to analyze <strong>the</strong> minerals in <strong>the</strong> import<br />
tempering, and <strong>the</strong>reby help trace <strong>the</strong>m back to <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
point <strong>of</strong> origin, we have cut very thin sections <strong>of</strong> those<br />
ceramics, allowing microscopic examination <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> minerals.<br />
This is referred to as petrographic analysis, and is<br />
currently being undertaken at UNCW.<br />
Comparable petrographic analysis <strong>of</strong> ceramics from<br />
<strong>the</strong> Greater Antilles is just starting to be conducted by<br />
o<strong>the</strong>r researchers, so for <strong>the</strong> moment we have a limited<br />
comparative base. However, that will change as more such<br />
work is done in <strong>the</strong> islands to <strong>the</strong> south. In <strong>the</strong> near future<br />
we will be better able to trace <strong>the</strong>se imported ceramics<br />
back to <strong>the</strong>ir hearth zone, and thus have an expanded<br />
picture <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> islanders’ trade networks.<br />
Local Palmetto Ware <strong>of</strong>ten has basketry and mat<br />
impressions. We brought in an expert, Charlene<br />
Hutcheson, to help with analysis <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se impressions,<br />
and by extension advance depiction <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> basketry and<br />
weaving skills <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Lucayans.<br />
Charcoal samples extracted from <strong>the</strong> midden were<br />
sent to Beta Analytics in Miami for radiocarbon dating.<br />
The three test results indicated a high probability that <strong>the</strong><br />
occupation period <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> village was between 1300 and<br />
1440 AD, which is consistent with <strong>the</strong> radiocarbon date<br />
mentioned from <strong>the</strong> 1977 dig.<br />
Why settle <strong>the</strong>re? Why settle by <strong>the</strong> mouth <strong>of</strong> Juba<br />
Sound? The Sound is a rich natural environment, and <strong>the</strong><br />
South Bank site is particularly well located to take advantage<br />
<strong>of</strong> local resources. The site sits in <strong>the</strong> lee <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> high<br />
ironshore at <strong>the</strong> south end <strong>of</strong> Long Bay, where canoes<br />
could be landed in calm waters. It sits on deep sandy soil,<br />
upon which it would have been easy to build <strong>the</strong> pole and<br />
thatch structures <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Lucayans, and within which <strong>the</strong><br />
Amerindians could plant <strong>the</strong>ir varied crops. A permanent<br />
surface fresh water source is located to <strong>the</strong> nor<strong>the</strong>ast,<br />
at <strong>the</strong> base <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> hill on which are found <strong>the</strong> Juba Point<br />
caves. The estuary system <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Sound is rich in shellfish,<br />
and <strong>the</strong> narrow estuary mouth is a natural tidal funnel for<br />
fish and an ideal location for fish traps. Nearby <strong>of</strong>fshore<br />
are banks that have abundant conch, and <strong>the</strong> patch reefs<br />
host many fish. The bone and shell remains recovered<br />
from <strong>the</strong> South Bank site indicate that all <strong>the</strong>se resources<br />
and environmental zones were being exploited.<br />
Analysis is ongoing, but here is where we are, and<br />
what we expect to learn. We are streng<strong>the</strong>ning our<br />
understanding <strong>of</strong> how <strong>the</strong> Lucayans interacted with <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
environment and utilized resources within it; firm dating<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> site between approximately 1300 and 1440<br />
AD helps place <strong>the</strong> settlement in <strong>the</strong> context <strong>of</strong> regional<br />
cultural development and links to contemporaneous<br />
communities; decorative motifs and mineral content <strong>of</strong><br />
imported ceramics are enabling refined modeling <strong>of</strong> trade<br />
ties and networks; and analysis <strong>of</strong> food residue on bone,<br />
shell and ceramics will expand our understanding <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
Lucayan diet and <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> plant and animal species that <strong>the</strong>y<br />
used to fuel <strong>the</strong>ir economy.<br />
The South Bank dig was productive, and could not<br />
have been successful without <strong>the</strong> contributions <strong>of</strong> local<br />
<strong>of</strong>ficials, students and volunteers. It was a true community<br />
effort. a<br />
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astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />
Museum Matters (continued)<br />
we had a beach fun day. Children <strong>of</strong> all ages played<br />
games, swam, snorkeled and had lunch. Where is<br />
Simon, Sandy? books are available in <strong>the</strong> gift shop at<br />
both Museum locations. Cases and half-cases are also<br />
available for sale at wholesale prices.<br />
Provo Museum gala — new in <strong>2019</strong><br />
The Turks and Caicos National Museum Foundation<br />
(TCNMF), with <strong>the</strong> invaluable support <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Hartling<br />
Group, corporate Turks & Caicos, hosted our inaugural<br />
fundraising gala at <strong>the</strong> Shore Club on June 8, <strong>2019</strong><br />
under <strong>the</strong> <strong>the</strong>me, “Building for <strong>the</strong> future, to protect <strong>the</strong><br />
past.” The goal is to raise funds for <strong>the</strong> development<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> new National Museum facility in Providenciales.<br />
This event will be <strong>the</strong> TCNMF’s major fundraiser for <strong>the</strong><br />
year and will be held annually.<br />
Museum summer camp<br />
The Provo <strong>Summer</strong> Camp will be held July 8–12 at<br />
<strong>the</strong> Village at Grace Bay campus. This fun, free camp<br />
explores history through arts, crafts, games, living history<br />
activities and field trips. The camp is ano<strong>the</strong>r event<br />
sponsored by <strong>the</strong> sale <strong>of</strong> Where is Simon, Sandy? books.<br />
Back in <strong>the</strong> Day — Village at Grace Bay<br />
This event is held annually on <strong>the</strong> third Saturday in May<br />
in conjunction with International Museum Day. It is a<br />
celebration <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> dynamic heritage and culture <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>. The Caicos Heritage homestead<br />
comes alive with <strong>the</strong> “Back in <strong>the</strong> Day” <strong>the</strong>me. Step back<br />
in time with dramatic performances, food, music, dance<br />
and traditional craft.<br />
Grand Turk BBQ & conch fritter cook <strong>of</strong>f<br />
This year’s inaugural event will be held July 20, withprizes<br />
and bragging rights for <strong>the</strong> winners! The day will<br />
include live music (Island Vibes Band), food, refreshments,<br />
games for <strong>the</strong> kids and a raffle with great prizes.<br />
Grand Turk summer eco camp<br />
Every summer in conjunction with <strong>the</strong> TCI Department<br />
<strong>of</strong> Environment and Coastal Resources, we <strong>of</strong>fer a<br />
week-long club. Daily activities for <strong>the</strong> kids include<br />
snorkeling, kayaking, hiking and crafts as <strong>the</strong>y learn<br />
about <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>’ environment. This year’s Eco Camp<br />
is August 12–16, also funded by <strong>the</strong> sale <strong>of</strong> Where is<br />
Simon, Sandy? books.<br />
History & cultural heritage quiz<br />
This annual event is held each October in Provo to coincide<br />
with Heritage Month. Schools from all <strong>the</strong> islands<br />
are invited to participate. In addition to <strong>the</strong> Challenge<br />
Trophy which is kept at <strong>the</strong> current winner’s school,<br />
<strong>the</strong> 2018 prize included a trip to Jamaica to visit <strong>the</strong><br />
UNESCO world heritage sites <strong>of</strong> Blue and John Crow<br />
Mountain, museums, great houses and o<strong>the</strong>r historical<br />
sites. Second prize winners spent <strong>the</strong> day immersed in<br />
history on one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>. All <strong>of</strong> this<br />
is made possible with our many sponsors.<br />
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astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />
Museum Day— Grand Turk<br />
November <strong>of</strong> each year we celebrate <strong>the</strong> 1991 opening<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum with<br />
Museum Day. The celebration includes food, music,<br />
raffles and special activities for children. Museum<br />
Day for <strong>2019</strong> is November 2.<br />
Various o<strong>the</strong>r events<br />
Both Museum locations occasionally <strong>of</strong>fer “Evening<br />
with <strong>the</strong> Expert” events. Guest speakers, including<br />
archeologists, historians and authors, present lectures<br />
on <strong>the</strong>ir area <strong>of</strong> expertise specifically about <strong>the</strong><br />
Join <strong>the</strong> Museum<br />
Become a Member <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
Turks & Caicos National<br />
Museum and receive a<br />
year’s subscription to <strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> (which<br />
includes Astrolabe), free admission to <strong>the</strong> Museum<br />
and o<strong>the</strong>r benefits.<br />
Senior (62+) $35 • Individual $50<br />
Family/Friend $100 • Sponsor $250<br />
Contributor $500 • Partner $750<br />
We have several options for joining:<br />
Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>. Both locations frequently welcome<br />
school groups. The Grand Turk location does<br />
not charge for school group visits and Provo charges<br />
a minimal amount. The Grand Turk museum is creating<br />
a Community Wall Mosaic that reflects all aspects<br />
<strong>of</strong> island life including history, culture, wildlife and<br />
nature. This will be an ongoing project that will turn<br />
something ordinary into something extraordinary! a<br />
By Lisa Talbot<br />
• Visit <strong>the</strong> Museum at our Providenciales location at<br />
The Village at Grace Bay or our Grand Turk location<br />
in Guinep House on Front Street.<br />
• Visit our website at<br />
www.tcmuseum.org/membership-support/.<br />
• Send US checks to: Dr. Toni L. Carrell, Friends <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum, 39 Condesa<br />
Road, Santa Fe, NM 87508<br />
*For U.S. residents, support <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Museum may be tax-deductible<br />
if you join via Friends <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National<br />
Museum, our affiliated institution and registered 501 (c) (3).<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2019</strong> 71
about <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong><br />
Map provided courtesy Wavey Line Publishing. Their navigation charts and decorative and historic maps <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>, <strong>the</strong><br />
Bahamas, and Hispaniola are available in shops throughout <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>. Visit www.amnautical.com.<br />
Where we are<br />
The Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> lie some 575 miles sou<strong>the</strong>ast<br />
<strong>of</strong> Miami — approximately 1 1/2 hours flying time — with<br />
<strong>the</strong> Bahamas about 30 miles to <strong>the</strong> northwest and <strong>the</strong><br />
Dominican Republic some 100 miles to <strong>the</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>ast.<br />
The country consists <strong>of</strong> two island groups separated<br />
by <strong>the</strong> 22-mile wide Columbus Passage. To <strong>the</strong> west are<br />
<strong>the</strong> Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>: West Caicos, Providenciales, North<br />
Caicos, Middle Caicos, East Caicos, and South Caicos. To<br />
<strong>the</strong> east are <strong>the</strong> Turks <strong>Islands</strong>: Grand Turk and Salt Cay.<br />
The Turks & Caicos total 166 square miles <strong>of</strong> land<br />
area on eight islands and 40 small cays. The country’s<br />
population is approximately 36,500.<br />
Getting here<br />
There are international airports on Grand Turk, North<br />
Caicos, Providenciales, and South Caicos, with domestic<br />
airports on all <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> islands except East Caicos.<br />
At this time, all <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> major international carriers<br />
arrive and depart from Providenciales International Airport.<br />
American Airlines flies from Miami, Charlotte, Chicago,<br />
Dallas, New York/JFK and Philadelphia. JetBlue Airways<br />
<strong>of</strong>fers service from Fort Lauderdale, Boston and New<br />
York/JFK. Southwest Airlines travels to Fort Lauderdale.<br />
Delta Airlines flies from Atlanta and New York/JFK. United<br />
Airlines travels from Chicago and Newark. WestJet travels<br />
from Toronto. Air Canada <strong>of</strong>fer flights from Toronto.<br />
British Airways travels from London/Gatwick via Antigua.<br />
72 www.timespub.tc
Bahamasair and InterCaribbean Airways fly to Nassau,<br />
Bahamas. Flights to: Antigua; Dominica; Cap Haitien<br />
and Port Au Prince, Haiti; Kingston and Montego Bay,<br />
Jamaica; Miami, Florida; Puerto Plata and Santo Domingo,<br />
Dominican Republic; San Juan, Puerto Rico; St. Lucia; St.<br />
Maarten; Santiago, Cuba; and Tortola are available on<br />
InterCaribbean Airways, while Caicos Express travels to<br />
Cap Haitien daily. (Schedules are current as <strong>of</strong> June <strong>2019</strong><br />
and subject to change.)<br />
Inter-island service is provided by InterCaribbean<br />
Airways, Caicos Express Airways and Global Airways. Sea<br />
and air freight services operate from Florida.<br />
Language<br />
English.<br />
Time zone<br />
Eastern Standard Time (EST)/Daylight Savings Time<br />
observed.<br />
Currency<br />
The United States dollar. The Treasury also issues a Turks<br />
& Caicos crown and quarter. Travellers cheques in U.S.<br />
dollars are widely accepted and o<strong>the</strong>r currency can be<br />
changed at local banks. American Express, VISA, and<br />
MasterCard are welcomed at many locations.<br />
Climate<br />
The average year-round temperature is 83ºF (28ºC). The<br />
hottest months are September and October, when <strong>the</strong><br />
temperature can reach 90 to 95ºF (33 to 35ºC). However,<br />
<strong>the</strong> consistent easterly trade winds temper <strong>the</strong> heat and<br />
keep life comfortable.<br />
Casual resort and leisure wear is accepted attire for<br />
daytime; light sweaters or jackets may be necessary on<br />
some breezy evenings. It’s wise to wear protective clothing<br />
and a sunhat and use waterpro<strong>of</strong> sunscreen when out<br />
in <strong>the</strong> tropical sun.<br />
Entry requirements<br />
Passport. A valid onward or return ticket is also required.<br />
Customs formalities<br />
Visitors may bring in duty free for <strong>the</strong>ir own use one carton<br />
<strong>of</strong> cigarettes or cigars, one bottle <strong>of</strong> liquor or wine,<br />
and some perfume. The importation <strong>of</strong> all firearms including<br />
those charged with compressed air without prior<br />
approval in writing from <strong>the</strong> Commissioner <strong>of</strong> Police is<br />
strictly forbidden. Spear guns, Hawaiian slings, controlled<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2019</strong> 73
drugs, and pornography are also illegal.<br />
Returning residents may bring in $400 worth <strong>of</strong><br />
merchandise per person duty free. A duty <strong>of</strong> 10% to<br />
60% is charged on most imported goods along with a<br />
7% customs processing fee and forms a major source <strong>of</strong><br />
government revenue.<br />
Transportation<br />
A valid driver’s license from home is suitable when renting<br />
vehicles. A government tax <strong>of</strong> 12% is levied on all<br />
rental contracts. (Insurance is extra.) Driving is on <strong>the</strong><br />
left-hand side <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> road, with traffic flow controlled by<br />
round-abouts at major junctions. Please don’t drink and<br />
drive! Taxis are abundant throughout <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> and<br />
many resorts <strong>of</strong>fer shuttle service between popular visitor<br />
areas. Scooter, motorcycle, and bicycle rentals are<br />
also available.<br />
Telecommunications<br />
FLOW Ltd. provides land lines and superfast broadband<br />
Internet service. Mobile service is on a LTE 4G network,<br />
including pre and post-paid cellular phones. Most resorts<br />
and some stores and restaurants <strong>of</strong>fer wireless Internet<br />
connection. Digicel operates mobile networks, with<br />
a full suite <strong>of</strong> LTE 4G service. FLOW is <strong>the</strong> local carrier<br />
for CDMA roaming on US networks such as Verizon and<br />
Sprint. North American visitors with GSM cellular handsets<br />
and wireless accounts with AT&T or Cingular can<br />
arrange international roaming.<br />
Electricity<br />
FortisTCI supplies electricity at a frequency <strong>of</strong> 60HZ,<br />
and ei<strong>the</strong>r single phase or three phase at one <strong>of</strong> three<br />
standard voltages for residential or commercial service.<br />
FortisTCI continues to invest in a robust and resilient grid<br />
to ensure <strong>the</strong> highest level <strong>of</strong> reliability to customers. The<br />
company is integrating renewable energy into its grid and<br />
provides options for customers to participate in two solar<br />
energy programs.<br />
Departure tax<br />
US $60. It is typically included in <strong>the</strong> price <strong>of</strong> your airline<br />
ticket.<br />
Courier service<br />
Delivery service is provided by FedEx, with <strong>of</strong>fices on<br />
Providenciales and Grand Turk, and DHL. UPS service is<br />
limited to incoming delivery.<br />
Postal service<br />
The Post Office and Philatelic Bureau in Providenciales is<br />
located downtown on Airport Road. In Grand Turk, <strong>the</strong><br />
Post Office and Philatelic Bureau is on Church Folly. The<br />
<strong>Islands</strong> are known for <strong>the</strong>ir varied and colorful stamp<br />
issues.<br />
Media<br />
Multi-channel satellite television is received from <strong>the</strong> U.S.<br />
and Canada and transmitted via cable or over <strong>the</strong> air.<br />
Local station WIV-TV broadcasts on Channel 4 and Island<br />
EyeTV on Channel 5. People’s Television <strong>of</strong>fers 75 digitally<br />
transmitted television stations, along with local news<br />
and talk shows on Channel 8. There are also a number <strong>of</strong><br />
local radio stations, magazines, and newspapers.<br />
Medical services<br />
There are no endemic tropical diseases in TCI. There are<br />
large, modern hospitals on Grand Turk and Providenciales.<br />
Both hospitals <strong>of</strong>fer a full range <strong>of</strong> services including:<br />
24/7 emergency room, operating <strong>the</strong>aters, diagnostic<br />
imaging, maternity suites, dialysis suites, blood bank,<br />
physio<strong>the</strong>rapy, and dentistry.<br />
74 www.timespub.tc
Brew ad May 2017_Layout 1 5/11/17 10:51 AM Page 1<br />
In addition, several general practitioners operate in<br />
<strong>the</strong> country, and <strong>the</strong>re is a recompression chamber, along<br />
with a number <strong>of</strong> private pharmacies.<br />
Immigration<br />
A resident’s permit is required to live in <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>. A<br />
work permit and business license are also required to<br />
work and/or establish a business. These are generally<br />
granted to those <strong>of</strong>fering skills, experience, and qualifications<br />
not widely available on <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>. Priority is given<br />
to enterprises that will provide employment and training<br />
for T&C Islanders.<br />
Government/Legal system<br />
TCI is a British Crown colony. There is a Queen-appointed<br />
Governor, HE Dr. John Freeman. He presides over an executive<br />
council formed by <strong>the</strong> elected local government.<br />
Lady Sharlene Cartwright-Robinson is <strong>the</strong> country’s first<br />
woman premier, leading a majority People’s Democratic<br />
Movement (PDM) House <strong>of</strong> Assembly.<br />
The legal system is based upon English Common<br />
Law and administered by a resident Chief Justice, Chief<br />
Magistrate, and Deputy Magistrates. Judges <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Court<br />
<strong>of</strong> Appeal visit <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> twice a year and <strong>the</strong>re is a final<br />
Right <strong>of</strong> Appeal to Her Majesty’s Privy Council in London.<br />
Taxes<br />
There are currently no direct taxes on ei<strong>the</strong>r income<br />
or capital for individuals or companies. There are no<br />
exchange controls. Indirect taxation comprises customs<br />
duties and fees, stamp duty, taxes on accommodations,<br />
restaurants, vehicle rentals, o<strong>the</strong>r services and gasoline,<br />
as well as business license fees and departure taxes.<br />
Economy<br />
Historically, TCI’s economy relied on <strong>the</strong> export <strong>of</strong> salt.<br />
Currently, tourism, <strong>the</strong> <strong>of</strong>fshore finance industry, and<br />
fishing generate <strong>the</strong> most private sector income. The<br />
<strong>Islands</strong>’ main exports are lobster and conch. Practically<br />
all consumer goods and foodstuffs are imported.<br />
The Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> are recognised as an<br />
important <strong>of</strong>fshore financial centre, <strong>of</strong>fering services<br />
such as company formation, <strong>of</strong>fshore insurance, banking,<br />
trusts, limited partnerships, and limited life companies.<br />
The Financial Services Commission regulates <strong>the</strong> industry<br />
and spearheads <strong>the</strong> development <strong>of</strong> <strong>of</strong>fshore legislation.<br />
People<br />
Citizens <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> are termed<br />
Turk’s Head Brewery<br />
Brewery Tours Monday-Friday<br />
11AM, 1PM, 3PM<br />
$15/pp<br />
Enjoy a complimentary selection <strong>of</strong> local craft beer<br />
after your tour!<br />
Email tours@turksheadbeer.com<br />
Call 649.941.3637 x 1005 to book<br />
www.turksheadbrewery.tc<br />
52 Universal Dr.<br />
Providenciales, TCI<br />
TOUR TASTE SHOP<br />
Island Auto_Layout 1 12/12/17 12:49 PM Page 1<br />
ISLAND AUTO RENTALS<br />
For Quality & Reliable Service<br />
& Competitive Prices<br />
The Cruise Center, Grand Turk<br />
Neville Adams<br />
Tel: (649) 946-2042<br />
Cell: (649) 232-0933 or (649) 231-4214<br />
Email: nevilleadams@hotmail.com<br />
Providenciales<br />
Levoi Marshall<br />
Cell: (649) 441-6737<br />
Email: levoimarshall86@gmail.com<br />
Web: islandautorentalstci.com<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2019</strong> 75
“Belongers” and are primarily descendants <strong>of</strong> African<br />
slaves who were brought to <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> to work in <strong>the</strong><br />
salt ponds and cotton plantations. The country’s large<br />
expatriate population includes Canadians, Americans,<br />
Brits and Europeans, along with Haitians, Jamaicans,<br />
Dominicans, Bahamians, Indians, and Filipinos.<br />
Churches<br />
Churches are <strong>the</strong> center <strong>of</strong> community life and <strong>the</strong>re<br />
are many faiths represented in <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> including:<br />
Adventist, Anglican, Assembly <strong>of</strong> God, Baha’i, Baptist,<br />
Catholic, Church <strong>of</strong> God, Episcopal, Jehovah’s Witnesses,<br />
Methodist and Pentecostal. Visitors are always welcome.<br />
Pets<br />
Incoming pets must have an import permit, veterinary<br />
health certificate, vaccination certificate, and lab test<br />
results to be submitted at <strong>the</strong> port <strong>of</strong> entry to obtain<br />
clearance from <strong>the</strong> TCI Department <strong>of</strong> Agriculture, Animal<br />
Health Services.<br />
National symbols<br />
The National Bird is <strong>the</strong> Brown pelican (Pelecanus occidentalis).<br />
The National Plant is Island hea<strong>the</strong>r (Limonium<br />
bahamense) found nowhere else in <strong>the</strong> world. The<br />
National Tree is <strong>the</strong> Caribbean pine (Pinus caribaea var.<br />
bahamensis). The National Costume consists <strong>of</strong> white cotton<br />
dresses tied at <strong>the</strong> waist for women and simple shirts<br />
and loose pants for men, with straw hats. Colors representing<br />
<strong>the</strong> various islands are displayed on <strong>the</strong> sleeves<br />
and bases. The National Song is “This Land <strong>of</strong> Ours” by<br />
<strong>the</strong> late Rev. E.C. Howell, PhD. Peas and Hominy (Grits)<br />
with Dry Conch is revered as symbolic island fare.<br />
Going green<br />
TCI Waste Disposal Services currently <strong>of</strong>fers recycling<br />
services through weekly collection <strong>of</strong> recyclable alumi-<br />
num, glass, and plastic. Single-use plastic bags have been<br />
banned as <strong>of</strong> May 1, <strong>2019</strong>.<br />
Recreation<br />
Sporting activities are centered around <strong>the</strong> water. Visitors<br />
can choose from deep-sea, reef, or bonefishing, sailing,<br />
glass-bottom boat and semi-sub excursions, windsurfing,<br />
waterskiing, parasailing, sea kayaking, snorkelling, scuba<br />
diving, kiteboarding, stand up paddleboarding, and<br />
beachcombing. Pristine reefs, abundant marine life, and<br />
excellent visibility make TCI a world-class diving destination.<br />
Tennis and golf—<strong>the</strong>re is an 18 hole championship<br />
course on Providenciales—are also popular.<br />
The <strong>Islands</strong> are an ecotourist’s paradise. Visitors can<br />
enjoy unspoilt wilderness and native flora and fauna in 33<br />
national parks, nature reserves, sanctuaries, and areas <strong>of</strong><br />
historical interest. The National Trust provides trail guides<br />
to several hiking trails, as well as guided tours <strong>of</strong> major<br />
historical sites. There is an excellent national museum on<br />
Grand Turk, with an auxillary branch on Providenciales. A<br />
scheduled ferry and a selection <strong>of</strong> tour operators make it<br />
easy to take day trips to <strong>the</strong> outer islands.<br />
O<strong>the</strong>r land-based activities include bicycling, horseback<br />
riding and football (soccer). Personal trainers are<br />
available to motivate you, working out <strong>of</strong> several fitness<br />
centres. You will also find a variety <strong>of</strong> spa and body treatment<br />
services.<br />
Nightlife includes local bands playing island music<br />
at bars and restaurants and some nightclubs. There is<br />
a casino on Providenciales, along with many electronic<br />
gaming parlours. Stargazing is extraordinary!<br />
Shoppers will find Caribbean paintings, T-shirts,<br />
sports and beachwear, and locally made handicrafts,<br />
including straw work and conch crafts. Duty free outlets<br />
sell liquor, jewellery, watches, perfume, lea<strong>the</strong>r goods,<br />
crystal, china, cameras, electronics, brand-name clothing<br />
and accessories, along with Cuban cigars. a<br />
76 www.timespub.tc
where to stay<br />
Grand Turk<br />
range <strong>of</strong> daily rates<br />
US$ (subject to change)<br />
number <strong>of</strong> units<br />
major credit cards<br />
restaurant<br />
bar<br />
air conditioning<br />
phone in unit<br />
television in unit<br />
kitchen in unit<br />
laundry service<br />
pool<br />
on <strong>the</strong> beach<br />
H<br />
The Arches <strong>of</strong> Grand Turk – Tel 649 946 2941 190–210 4 • • • • • • •<br />
Bohio Dive Resort – Tel 649 231 3572/800 494 4301 • Web www.bohioresort.com 170–230 16 • • • • • • • •<br />
Crabtree Apartments – Tel 978 270 1698 • Web www.GrandTurkVacationRental.com 210–250 3 • • • • • •<br />
Manta House – Tel 649 946 1111 • Web www.grandturk-mantahouse.com 110–130 5 • • • • • • •<br />
Osprey Beach Hotel – Tel 649 946 2666 • Web www.ospreybeachhotel.com 90–225 37 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
Pelican House – Tel 649 246 6797 • Web www.pelicanhousegrandturk.com 110-130 3 • • • • •<br />
Salt Raker Inn – Tel 649 946 2260 • Web www.saltrakerinn.com 55–140 13 • • • • • • •<br />
Solomon Porches Guesthouse – Tel 649 946 2776/241 2937 • Fax 649 946 1984 75–100 3 • •<br />
Middle Caicos<br />
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Dragon Cay Resort at Mudjin Harbour – Tel 649 344 4997 • Web www.dragoncayresort.com 325 8 • • • • • • • • •<br />
North Caicos<br />
H<br />
Bottle Creek Lodge – Tel 649 946 7080 • Web www.bottlecreeklodge.com 155–240 3 • •<br />
Caicos Beach Condominiums – Tel 649 241 4778/786 338 9264 • Web www.caicosbeachcondos.com 159–299 8 • • • • • • • •<br />
Cedar Palms Suites – Tel 649 946 7113/649 244 4186 • Web www.oceanbeach.tc 250–300 3 • • • • • • • • •<br />
Flamingo’s Nest – Tel 649 946 7113/649 244 4186 • Web www.oceanbeach.tc 175–340 2 • • • • • • • •<br />
Hollywood Beach Suites - Tel 800 551 2256/649 231 1020 • Web www.hollywoodbeachsuites.com 200–235 4 • • • • • •<br />
JoAnne’s Bed & Breakfast - Tel 649 946 7301 • Web www.turksandcaicos.tc/joannesbnb 80–120 4 • • • •<br />
Palmetto Villa – Tel 649 946 7113/649 244 4186 • Web www.oceanbeach.tc 225–250 1 • • • • • • • •<br />
Pelican Beach Hotel - Tel 649 946 7112 • Web www.pelicanbeach.tc 125–165 14 • • • • • • • •<br />
Pine Cay<br />
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The Meridian Club - Tel 649 946 7758/888 286 7993 • Web www.meridianclub.com 800–1300 13 • • • • • • •<br />
Parrot Cay<br />
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COMO Parrot Cay Resort - Tel 649 946 7788/855 PARROTCAY • www.comohotels.com/parrotcay 550–2850 65 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
Providenciales<br />
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Airport Inn – Tel 649 941 3514 • Web www.airportinntci.com. 140 18 • • • • • • •<br />
Alexandra Resort – Tel 800 284 0699/649 946 5807 • Web www.alexandraresort.com 280–420 99 • • • • • • • • •<br />
The Atrium Resort – Tel 888 592 7885/649 333 0101 • Web www.<strong>the</strong>atriumresorttci.com 159–410 30 • • • • • • • •<br />
Amanyara – Tel 866 941 8133/649 941 8133 • Web www.aman.com 1000–2100 73 • • • • • • • •<br />
Aquamarine Beach Houses – Tel 649 231 4535/905 556 0278 • www.aquamarinebeachhouses.com 200–850 24 • • • • • • • •<br />
Beaches Resort Villages & Spa – Tel 888-BEACHES/649 946 8000 • Web www.beaches.com 325–390AI 758 • • • • • • • • •<br />
Beach House Turks & Caicos – Tel 649 946 5800/855 946 5800 • Web www.beachchousetci.com 532–638 21 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
BE Beach Enclave – Tel 649 946 5619 • Web www.beachenclave.com see web 24 • • • • • • • •<br />
Blue Haven Resort & Marina – Tel 855 832 7667/649 946 9900 • Web www.bluehaventci.com 250–650 51 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
Caribbean Paradise Inn – Tel 649 946 5020 • Web www.caribbeanparadiseinn.com 162–225 17 • • • • • • • •<br />
Club Med Turkoise – Tel 800 258 2633/649 946 5500 • Web www.clubmed.com 120–225 290 • • • • • • • • •<br />
Coral Gardens on Grace Bay – Tel 649 941 5497/800 787 9115 • Web www.coralgardensongracebay.com 199-449 32 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
Grace Bay Club - Tel 800 946 5757/649 946 5050 • Web www.gracebayclub.com 650–1750 75 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
Grace Bay Suites – Tel 649 941 7447 • Web www.GraceBaySuites.com 99–195 24 • • • • • • • •<br />
Harbour Club Villas – Tel 649 941 5748/305 434 8568 • Web www.harbourclubvillas.com 210–240 6 • • • • •<br />
The Inn at Grace Bay – Tel 649 432 8633 • Web www.innatgracebay.com 179–379 48 • • • • • • •<br />
Kokomo Botanical Gardens - Tel 649 941 3121• Web www.aliveandwellresorts.com 169–299 16 • • • • •<br />
Le Vele - Tel 649 941 8800/888 272 4406 • Web www.leveleresort.com 303–630 22 • • • • • • • •<br />
La Vista Azul – Tel 649 946 8522/866 519 9618 • Web www.lvaresort.com 215–375 78 • • • • • • •<br />
The Lodgings – Tel 649 941 8107/242 6722 • Web www.hotelturksandcaicos.com 175–255 15 • • • • • •<br />
Neptune Villas – Tel 649 331 4328 • Web www.neptunevillastci.com 150–400 10 • • • • • • • • •<br />
Northwest Point Resort • Tel 649 941 5133 • Web www.northwestpointresort.com 196–550 49 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
Ocean Club Resorts - Tel 800 457 8787/649 946 5880 • Web www.oceanclubresorts.com 180–690 191 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
The Palms Turks & Caicos – Tel 649 946 8666/866 877 7256 • Web <strong>the</strong>palmstc.com 595–1700 72 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2019</strong> 77
where to stay<br />
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Providenciales (continued)<br />
Pelican Nest Villa – Tel 649 342 5731 • Web www.pelicannest.tc 429–857 2 • • • • • •<br />
Point Grace – Tel 649 946 5096/888 209 5582 • Web www.pointgrace.com 424–1515 27 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
Ports <strong>of</strong> Call Resort – Tel 888 678 3483/649 946 8888 • Web www.ports<strong>of</strong>callresort.com 135–210 99 • • • • • • •<br />
Queen Angel Resort – Tel 649 941 8771 • Web www.queenangelresort.com 150–575 56 • • • • • • • • •<br />
Reef Residences at Grace Bay – Tel 800 532 8536 • Web www.reefresidence.com 275-385 24 • • • • • • •<br />
The Regent Grand – Tel 877 288 3206/649 941 7770 • Web www.<strong>the</strong>regentgrand.com 495–1100 50 • • • • • • • • •<br />
Royal West Indies Resort – Tel 800 332 4203/649 946 5004 • Web www.royalwestindies.com 180–695 92 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
The Sands at Grace Bay – Tel 877 777 2637/649 946 5199 • Web www.<strong>the</strong>sandsresort.com 175–675 116 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
Seven Stars Resort – Tel 866 570 7777/649 333 7777 – Web www.sevenstarsgracebay.com 365–2400 165 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
The Shore Club – Tel 649 339 8000 – Web www.<strong>the</strong>shoreclubtc.com 465–4650 148 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
Sibonné Beach Hotel – Tel 888 570 2861/649 946 5547 • Web www.sibonne.com 110–375 29 • • • • • • • •<br />
The Somerset on Grace Bay – Tel 649 339 5900/888 386 8770 • Web www.<strong>the</strong>somerset.com 350–1300 53 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
The Tuscany – Tel 866 359 6466/649 941 4667 • Web www.<strong>the</strong>tuscanyresort.com 975–1300 30 • • • • • • • •<br />
The Venetian – Tel 877 277 4793/649 941 3512 • Web www.<strong>the</strong>venetiangracebay.com 695–1175 27 • • • • • • • •<br />
Villa del Mar – Tel 877 345 4890/649 941 5160 • Web www.yourvilladelmar.com 190–440 42 • • • • • • •<br />
Villa Mani – Tel 649 431 4444 • Web www.villamanitci.com 6500–9500 8 • • • • • • •<br />
Villa Renaissance – Tel 649 941 5160/877 345 4890 • www.villarenaissanceturksandcaicos.com 295–650 36 • • • • • • • • •<br />
The Villas at Blue Mountain – Tel 649 941 4255/866 883 5931 • www.villasatbluemountain.com 1200–2500 3 • • • • • • • •<br />
West Bay Club – Tel 855 749 5750/649 946 8550 • Web www.<strong>the</strong>westbayclub.com 235–1163 46 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
Windsong Resort – Tel 649 333 7700/800 WINDSONG • Web www.windsongresort.com 275–925 50 • • • • • • • • •<br />
Wymara Resort & Villas – Tel 888 844 5986 • Web www.wymararesortandvillas.com 315–720 91 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
range <strong>of</strong> daily rates<br />
US$ (subject to change)<br />
number <strong>of</strong> units<br />
major credit cards<br />
restaurant<br />
bar<br />
air conditioning<br />
phone in unit<br />
television in unit<br />
kitchen in unit<br />
laundry service<br />
pool<br />
on <strong>the</strong> beach<br />
Salt Cay<br />
Castaway – Salt Cay – Tel 772 713 9502 • Web www.castawayonsaltcay.com 175–265 4 • • • • •<br />
Genesis Beach House – Tel 561 502 0901 • Web www.Genesisbeachhouse.com 1000–1200W 4 • • • • •<br />
Pirate’s Hideaway B & B – Tel 800 289 5056/649 946 6909 • Web www.saltcay.tc 165–175 4 • • • • • • •<br />
Salt Cay Beach House – Tel 772 713 9502 • Web www.saltcaybeachhouse.blogspot.com 799W 1 • • • • • •<br />
Trade Winds Guest Suites – Tel 649 232 1009 • Web www.tradewinds.tc 925–1325W 5 • • • • •<br />
Twilight Zone Cottage – Tel 772 713 9502 • Web www.twilightzonecottage.blogspot.com 499W 1 • • • •<br />
The Villas <strong>of</strong> Salt Cay – Tel 772 713 9502 • Web www.villas<strong>of</strong>saltcay.com 150–475 5 • • • • • • • •<br />
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South Caicos<br />
East Bay Resort – Tel 844 260 8328/649 232 6444 • Web eastbayresort.com 198–1775 86 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
Sailrock South Caicos – Tel 855 335 72513/649 941 2121 • Web sailrockliving.com 600–800 6 • • • • • • • • •<br />
South Caicos Ocean & Beach Resort – Tel 877 774 5486/649 946 3219<br />
Web southcaicos.oceanandbeachresort.com 120–275 24 • • • • •<br />
Hotel & Tourism Association Member<br />
Green Globe Certified<br />
Rates (listed for doubles) do not include Government Accommodation Tax and Service Charge<br />
classified ads<br />
SCOOTER BOBS_Layout 1 8/8/18 10:57 AM Page GBC2017_Layout 1 2/16/17 9:10 AM Page 1<br />
HertzDollar_Layout 1 2/16/17 12:37 PM Page 1<br />
We’re here to<br />
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SERVICE OFFERED:<br />
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Bob: 231-0262 (after hours)<br />
scooterbobs@gmail.com<br />
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78 www.timespub.tc
classified ads<br />
Forbes Classified changes due_Layout 1 8/9/18 Deluxe 11:51 A Day Spa_Layout 1 5/28/19 12:43 PM Page<br />
FORBES REALTY TCI<br />
Caicu Naniki_Caicu Naniki classified 8/9/18 12:05 PM Page 1<br />
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Touch <strong>of</strong> Bliss_Layout 1 8/9/18 11:59 AM Page 1<br />
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EcoSeaSwimWinter 2018_Caicu Naniki classified 11/14/18 11:36 PM Page 1<br />
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1 8/9/18 3:33 PM Page 1<br />
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Project1_Layout 1 11/27/18 10:34 PM Page 1<br />
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Brigitte ad Classified_Brigitte 8/25/17 11:50 AM Page 1<br />
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T&C Veterinary_Layout Open 1 8/9/18 6 days 2:02 per week PM Page 1<br />
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<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2019</strong> 79
dining out – providenciales<br />
Amanyara — Amanyara Resort. Tel: 941-8133. Light gourmet<br />
cuisine with menu changing daily. Open 6 to 10 PM.<br />
Angela’s Top O’ The Cove Deli — Suzie Turn, by NAPA.<br />
Tel: 946-4694. New York-style delicatessen. Eat-in, carry-out,<br />
catering. Open daily 7 AM to 5 PM; Sunday 7 AM to 2 PM.<br />
Asú on <strong>the</strong> Beach — Alexandra Resort. Tel: 941-8888. Casual<br />
Caribbean and popular international fare. Open daily for 7:30<br />
AM to 10:30 PM. Service indoors, poolside, and at beach.<br />
Baci Ristorante — Harbour Towne, Turtle Cove. Tel: 941-3044.<br />
Waterfront Italian dining. Brick oven pizza. Popular bar. Open<br />
for lunch Monday to Friday 12 to 2 PM and dinner nightly from<br />
6 to 10 PM. Closed Sunday.<br />
Bay Bistro — Sibonné Beach Hotel. Tel: 946-5396. Oceanfront<br />
dining featuring creative international cuisine. Open daily<br />
7 AM to 10 PM. Weekend brunch. Catering and special events.<br />
Beaches Resort & Spa — The Bight. Tel: 946-8000.<br />
All-inclusive resort. A variety <strong>of</strong> restaurants and bars on premises.<br />
Non-guests can purchase a pass.<br />
Bella Luna Ristorante — Glass House, Grace Bay Road. Tel:<br />
946-5214. Fine Italian dining. Indoor or terrace seating above<br />
tropical garden. Open daily from 5:30 PM. Closed Sunday. Lunch<br />
and pizza in <strong>the</strong> garden. Private catering available.<br />
Big Al’s Island Grill — Salt Mills Plaza. Tel: 941-3797. Wide<br />
selection <strong>of</strong> burgers, steaks, salads, and wraps in a diner-like<br />
setting. Open daily from 11 AM to 10 PM.<br />
Bugaloo’s Conch Crawl — Five Cays. Tel: 941-3863. Fresh<br />
local conch and seafood by <strong>the</strong> beach. Rum, buckets <strong>of</strong> beer,<br />
live local bands. Open daily from 11 AM to late.<br />
Cabana Beach Bar & Grill — Ocean Club. Tel: 946-5880.<br />
Casual island fare, burgers, salads, snacks. Open daily from<br />
8 AM to 10 PM. Tropical cocktails with a view <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> sea.<br />
Caicos Bakery — Caicos Café Plaza. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic French boulangerie.<br />
Fresh-baked breads, rolls, croissants, muffins, quiche,<br />
pastries, cakes. Open 7 AM to 4:30 PM daily except Sunday.<br />
Caicos Café — Caicos Café Plaza. Tel: 946-5278.<br />
Mediterranean specialties, grilled local seafood. Fine wines, dining<br />
on <strong>the</strong> deck. Open 6 PM to 10 PM Monday to Saturday.<br />
Chicken Chicken — <strong>Times</strong> Square, downtown Provo. Fast food,<br />
fried chicken, native fare.<br />
Chinson’s Grill Shack — Leeward Highway. Tel: 941-3533.<br />
The <strong>Islands</strong>’ best jerk and barbecue, Jamaican pastries. Open<br />
daily 8 AM to 10 PM; Friday to Midnight.<br />
Club Med — Grace Bay Road. Tel: 946-5500. All-inclusive<br />
resort. Buffet-style dining; live show and disco in <strong>the</strong> evenings.<br />
Non-guests can purchase a daily pass.<br />
Coco Bistro — Grace Bay Road. Tel: 946-5369. Continental<br />
Caribbean cuisine by Chef Stuart Gray under a canopy <strong>of</strong> palms.<br />
Serving dinner from 5:30 PM daily. Look for <strong>the</strong> Cocovan airstream<br />
lounge with garden seating or take-away.<br />
Coconut Grove Restaurant & Lounge — Olympic Plaza,<br />
Downtown. Tel: 247-5610. Casual native fare. Cracked conch,<br />
conch fritters, fried fish. Open daily 11 AM to 10 PM.<br />
Coyaba Restaurant — Caribbean Paradise Inn. Tel: 946-5186.<br />
Contemporary Caribbean gourmet cuisine in a private tropical<br />
garden setting. Extensive wine list. Dinner nightly from 6 to 10<br />
PM. Closed Tuesday. Reservations recommended.<br />
Crackpot Kitchen — Ports <strong>of</strong> Call. Tel: 2313336. Experience<br />
<strong>the</strong> best <strong>of</strong> au<strong>the</strong>ntic Turks & Caicos and Caribbean cuisines<br />
with local celebrity Chef Nik. Open daily 5 to 10 PM except<br />
Thursday; Happy Hour 5 to 7 PM.<br />
Da Conch Shack & RumBar — Blue Hills. Tel: 946-8877.<br />
Island-fresh seafood from <strong>the</strong> ocean to your plate. Covered<br />
beachfront dining for lunch and dinner daily from 11 AM.<br />
Danny Buoy’s — Grace Bay Road. Tel: 946-5921. Traditional<br />
American pub fare; imported draught beers. Open for lunch and<br />
dinner daily from 11 AM. Happy Hour specials. Large screen TVs<br />
for sporting events. Karaoke.<br />
The Deck — Seven Stars Resort. Tel: 941-7777. All day dining<br />
and cocktails by <strong>the</strong> water’s edge. Open daily 11 AM to 11 PM.<br />
Live music Friday nights.<br />
Drift — West Bay Club. Tel: 946-8550. Open-air beachfront dining.<br />
Creatively used local ingredients. Full bar. Open daily.<br />
Dune — Windsong Resort. Tel: 333-7700. Private beachfront<br />
dining with limited availability. Fresh fare prepared to perfection.<br />
Open daily.<br />
El Catador Tapas & Bar — Regent Village. Tel: 244-1134.<br />
Au<strong>the</strong>ntic Spanish tapas with a wide mix <strong>of</strong> cold and hot plates<br />
meant for sharing. Fun and lively atmosphere. Open daily from<br />
5 PM.<br />
Element — LeVele Plaza. Tel: 348-6424. Contemporary, creative<br />
cuisine in an elegant setting. Open for dinner Friday to<br />
Wednesday 6:30 to 10:30 PM.<br />
Fairways Bar & Grill — Provo Golf Club. Tel: 946-5833. Dine<br />
overlooking <strong>the</strong> “greens.” Open for breakfast and lunch from 7<br />
AM to 4 PM daily; Friday, Saturday and Sunday open until 8 PM.<br />
Great Sunday brunch 9 AM to 3 PM.<br />
Fire & Ice — Blue Haven Resort & Marina. Tel: 946-9900.<br />
Drinks at <strong>the</strong> Ice Bar, dessert by <strong>the</strong> fire pits. South Americanmeets-Caribbean<br />
flavors and spices. Open daily 5:30 to 9:30<br />
PM. Closed Wednesday.<br />
Fresh Bakery & Bistro — Atrium Resort. Tel: 345-4745.<br />
Healthy European salads, soups, sandwiches, bakery, pies and<br />
cakes. Gelato. Open daily 7 AM to 6 PM, closed Sunday.<br />
Fresh Catch — Salt Mills Plaza. Tel: 243-3167. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic native<br />
cuisine, from seafood to souse. All-you-can-eat seafood buffet<br />
on Wednesday. Open daily 8 AM to 10 PM. Closed Sunday.<br />
Carry-out available.<br />
Garam Masala — Regent Village. Tel: 941-3292. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic<br />
Indian cuisine, tandoori charcoal-oven specialties. Open daily<br />
11:30 AM to 3 PM, 5:30 to 10 PM. Dine-in, take-out or delivery.<br />
Giggles Ice Cream & Candy Parlour — Ports <strong>of</strong> Call &<br />
Williams Storage. Tel: 941-7370. Cones, sundaes, shakes,<br />
smoothies, “Gigglers,” ice cream pies and cakes. Pick ‘n’ mix<br />
candies. Open daily 11 AM to 10 PM.<br />
Gilley’s Sky Lounge & Bar — At <strong>the</strong> airport. Tel: 946-4472.<br />
Burgers, sandwiches, local food. Open daily 6 AM to 9 PM.<br />
Grace’s Cottage — Point Grace Resort. Tel: 946-5096. Refined<br />
new menu in <strong>the</strong> style <strong>of</strong> a tastefully sophisticated French bistro.<br />
Serving dinner from 6 to 10 PM nightly.<br />
Grill Rouge — Grace Bay Club. Tel: 946-5050. Al fresco bistro.<br />
Diverse menu. Fun cocktails. Open daily for lunch Noon to 3 PM,<br />
dinner to 9 PM.<br />
Hemingways on <strong>the</strong> Beach — The Sands at Grace Bay. Tel:<br />
941-8408. Casual beachfront bar and restaurant. Fresh fish,<br />
pasta, sandwiches, salads and tropical drinks by <strong>the</strong> pool.<br />
Oceanfront deck for great sunsets! Open 8 AM to 10 PM daily.<br />
80 www.timespub.tc
Hole in <strong>the</strong> Wall Restaurant & Bar — Williams Plaza, Old<br />
Airport Road. Tel: 941-4136. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic Jamaican/Island cuisine<br />
where <strong>the</strong> locals go. Full bar. A/C dining or outdoors on <strong>the</strong><br />
deck. Open daily 7 AM to 9 PM. Pick-up/delivery available.<br />
Infiniti Restaurant & Raw Bar — Grace Bay Club. Tel: 946-<br />
5050. Elegant beachfront dining for lunch and dinner. Gourmet<br />
Euro/Caribbean cuisine; fine wines. Full bar and lounge.<br />
Reservations required.<br />
Island Raw — Le Petite Plaza. Tel: 346-5371. Vegan lifestyle<br />
kitchen, <strong>of</strong>fering fresh, organic, raw, vegan, gourmet. Open<br />
Friday, Noon to 2 PM.<br />
Island Conch Bar & Grill — Bight Cultural Market. Tel: 946-<br />
8389. Caribbean and local cuisine. Open daily 11 AM to 9 PM.<br />
Island Scoop — Grace Bay Plaza. Tel: 242-8511/243-5051.<br />
21 flavors <strong>of</strong> ice cream made locally. Cones, smoothies, blizzards<br />
and shakes. Open daily, 11 AM to 10 PM.<br />
The Java Bar — Graceway Gourmet. Tel: 941-5000. Gourmet<br />
café serving fresh baked desserts, sandwiches and c<strong>of</strong>fee<br />
delights. Open 7 AM to 8 PM daily.<br />
Jack’s Fountain — Across from Casablanca Casino. Tel: 946-<br />
5225. Seafood, steak, unique specialty items in a lively, relaxed<br />
“beach bar” atmosphere. Open 7 AM to 10 PM daily.<br />
Kalooki’s Grace Bay — Le Vele Plaza. Tel: 941-8388. The perfect<br />
mix <strong>of</strong> sweet and spicy Caribbean flavors. New location in<br />
Grace Bay. Open daily 11 AM to 10 PM. Closed Thursday.<br />
Kitchen 218 — Beach House, Lower Bight Road. Tel: 946-5800.<br />
Caribbean cuisine with hints <strong>of</strong> French and Asian fusion and <strong>the</strong><br />
chef’s passion for fresh ingredients. Open 8 AM to 10 PM daily.<br />
The Landing Bar & Kitchen — Grace Bay Road across from<br />
Regent Village. Tel: 341-5856. Unique nautical setting for dinner<br />
under <strong>the</strong> stars. Cocktails, fire pit. Open daily except Tuesday<br />
5:30 to 10 PM.<br />
Las Brisas — Neptune Villas, Chalk Sound. Tel: 946-5306.<br />
Mediterranean/Caribbean cuisine with tapas, wine and full bar.<br />
Terrace and gazebo dining overlooking Chalk Sound. Open daily<br />
8 AM to 10 PM. Take-out available; private parties.<br />
Le Bouchon du Village — Regent Village. Tel: 946-5234. A<br />
taste <strong>of</strong> Paris. Sidewalk café with sandwiches, salads, tartines,<br />
tapas, dinner specials, wine, cheese, dessert, c<strong>of</strong>fees. Open<br />
daily 11 AM. Closed Sunday.<br />
Le Comptoir Francais — Regent Village. Tel: 946-5234.<br />
French deli, bakery, wine shop. Open daily.<br />
Lemon 2 Go C<strong>of</strong>fee — Ventura House. Tel: 941-4069.<br />
Gourmet c<strong>of</strong>feehouse. Sandwiches, muffins, cookies, croissants,<br />
yogurt, salads. Open Monday to Saturday 7:30 AM to 7 PM,<br />
Sunday 9 AM to 1 PM.<br />
The Lounge — Grace Bay Club. Tel: 946-5050. Decidedly hip<br />
lounge. Caribbean-infused tapas, martinis, tropical cocktails,<br />
world music and <strong>the</strong> finest sunset location in Providenciales.<br />
Lupo — Regent Village. Tel: 431-5876. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic Italian “comfort<br />
food.” Regional wine list. Dine in or take out ready-made<br />
gourmet meals. Open daily Noon to 3 PM; 5:45 to 9:45 PM.<br />
Magnolia Restaurant & Wine Bar — Miramar Resort. Tel:<br />
941-5108. International cuisine with island flavors, north shore<br />
views. Open for dinner from 6 to 9:30 PM except Monday.<br />
Mango Reef — Turtle Cove. Tel: 946-8200. Fresh local flavors<br />
and seafood, homemade desserts. Open daily 11 AM to 10 PM.<br />
Set price dinner on weekdays. Waterside deck, indoor or patio<br />
dining. Tie-up to dock at Turtle Cove Marina.<br />
Market Café — Blue Haven Resort. Tel: 946-9900. Gourmet<br />
c<strong>of</strong>fees, teas, frozen drinks; fresh breads and pastries; grab ‘n’<br />
go salads, sandwiches, smoothies. Open daily 7 AM to 8 PM.<br />
Mo<strong>the</strong>r’s Pizza — Downtown <strong>Times</strong> Square. Tel: 941-4142.<br />
Best pizza in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos, available by <strong>the</strong> slice or <strong>the</strong><br />
island’s biggest “large.” Open daily 11 AM to 9 PM; to 10 PM on<br />
Friday and Saturday; Noon to 8 PM on Sunday.<br />
Mr. Groupers — Lower Bight and Sunset Ridge Hotel (near airport).<br />
Tel: 242-6780. Serving fresh local seafood straight from<br />
<strong>the</strong> sea. Open daily 10 AM to 10:30 PM, Sunday 3 to 11 PM.<br />
Opus Wine • Bar • Grill — Ocean Club Plaza. Tel: 946-5885.<br />
International menu with Caribbean flair. Fresh seafood. Serving<br />
dinner nightly 6 to 10 PM. Indoor/outdoor dining. Conference<br />
facility, events, catering.<br />
Outback Steakhouse TCI — Regent Village. Unbeatable<br />
steak cuts complemented by chicken, ribs, seafood, and pasta.<br />
Generous portions, moderately priced, casual atmosphere. Open<br />
Monday to Thursday 3 to 11 PM; Friday to Midnight; Saturday 1<br />
PM to Midnight; Sunday 1 to 11 PM.<br />
Parallel23 — The Palms Turks & Caicos. Tel: 946-8666. Pantropical<br />
cuisine in a setting <strong>of</strong> casual elegance. Boutique wine<br />
list. Al fresco or private dining room available. Open daily 6 to<br />
10:30 PM.<br />
The Patty Place — Behind Shining Stars; Le Petit Place, Blue<br />
Hills. Tel: 246-9000. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic Jamaican patties and loaves. 18<br />
flavors <strong>of</strong> Devon House ice cream. Open daily 9:30 AM to 10 PM.<br />
Pavilion — The Somerset. Tel: 339-5900. Chef Brad <strong>of</strong>fers a<br />
global palate, interpreted locally. Seafood raw bar. Open daily<br />
for breakfast, lunch, dinner; Sunday Prime Rib special.<br />
Pelican Bay Restaurant & Bar — Royal West Indies Resort.<br />
Tel: 941-2365/431-9101. Poolside restaurant and bar with<br />
Caribbean, French and Asian fare. Breakfast, lunch, dinner daily<br />
from 7:30 AM to 10 PM. Special events each week.<br />
Pepper Town Café — Digicel Cinema, #4. Tel: 246-9237.<br />
Native and Caribbean Dishes. Open daily except Sunday 11:30<br />
AM to 7 PM. Island breakfast on Saturday at 7 AM.<br />
Pizza Pizza — Grace Bay Plaza/Cinema Plaza. Tel: 941-<br />
8010/941-3577. New York style specialty pizzas. Open daily<br />
11:30 AM to 9:30 PM, weekends until 10 PM. Free delivery.<br />
Provence — Le Vele Plaza. Tel: 946-4124. Traditional French<br />
artisan-style cuisine. Fresh pasta, gelato, cheeses, charcuterie,<br />
pastries, desserts. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner.<br />
Retreat Kitchen Vegetarian Café & Juice Bar — Ports <strong>of</strong><br />
Call. Tel: 432-2485. Fresh, organic, vegan, vegetarian, gluten-free<br />
fare. Fresh juices, daily lunch specials. Open for lunch<br />
Monday to Saturday, 9 AM to 3 PM. Delivery available.<br />
Rickie’s Flamingo Café — Between Ocean Club and Club Med.<br />
Tel: 244-3231. Local fare and atmosphere right on <strong>the</strong> beach.<br />
Best grouper sandwich and rum punch! Don’t miss Curry Fridays<br />
and Beach BBQ Saturdays.<br />
Salt Bar & Grill — Blue Haven Resort & Marina. Tel: 946-9900.<br />
Outdoor seating overlooking <strong>the</strong> marina. Sandwiches, burgers,<br />
salads, classic bar favorites. Open daily 11:30 AM to 9:30 PM.<br />
Seven — Seven Stars Resort. Tel: 339-7777. Elevated contemporary<br />
cuisine fused with TCI tradition. Open Monday to Saturday,<br />
5:30 to 9:30 PM.<br />
72ºWest — The Palms Turks & Caicos. Tel: 946-8666.<br />
Beachside dining with a family-friendly, Caribbean-inspired<br />
menu. Serving lunch daily; dinner seasonally.<br />
Sharkbite Bar & Grill — Admiral’s Club at Turtle Cove. Tel:<br />
941-5090. Varied menu; casual dining. Sports bar/slots. Open<br />
daily from 11 AM to 2 AM.<br />
Shay Café — Le Vele Plaza. Tel: 331-6349. Offering organic<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2019</strong> 81
c<strong>of</strong>fees, teas, sandwiches, salads, soup, pastries, gelato, sorbetto,<br />
smoothies, beer and wine. Open daily 7 AM to 7 PM.<br />
Simone’s Bar & Grill — La Vista Azul. Tel: 331-3031. Serving<br />
fresh seafood and local cuisine. Open daily 11 AM to 11 PM;<br />
weekends 7 AM to 11 PM. Popular bar!<br />
Skull Rock Cantina — Ports <strong>of</strong> Call. Tel: 941-4173. The place<br />
for Tex-Mex; daily drink specials. Open daily, 8 AM to Midnight.<br />
Solana! Restaurant — Ocean Club West. Tel: 946-5254.<br />
Oceanfront dining from sushi to burgers. Teppanyaki and Sushi<br />
Bar, engage with <strong>the</strong> chefs. Open daily 7:30 AM to 10 PM.<br />
Somewhere Café & Lounge — Coral Gardens Resort. Tel:<br />
941-8260. Casual dining with Tex-Mex flair right on <strong>the</strong> beach.<br />
Cocktails, beers, specialty drinks. Open early to late daily.<br />
Stelle — Gansevoort Turks + Caicos. Tel: 232-4444. Modern<br />
Mediterranean cuisine featuring fresh fish and seafood. Open 6<br />
to 10 PM daily, until 2 AM on Friday with DJ.<br />
Sui-Ren — The Shore Club. Tel: 339-8000. Inspired flavors <strong>of</strong><br />
Peruvian-Japanese fusion cuisine with fresh seafood and organic<br />
produce in a unique setting. Open daily.<br />
Thai Orchid — The Regent Village. Tel: 946-4491. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic<br />
Thai cuisine; over 60 choices! Dine in or carry out. Open for<br />
lunch and dinner daily.<br />
Three Bro<strong>the</strong>rs Restaurant — Town Center Mall, Downtown.<br />
Tel: 232-4736. Seafood and native cuisine. Tuesday night buffet<br />
dinner. Catering services. Open daily, 7 AM to 10 PM.<br />
Tiki Hut Island Eatery — Dockside at Turtle Cove Inn. Tel:<br />
941-5341. Imaginative sandwiches, salads, seafood, Black<br />
Angus beef, pasta, pizzas, fish. Open daily 11 AM to 10 PM.<br />
Turkberry Frozen Yogurt — The Saltmills. Tel: 431-2233.<br />
Frozen yogurt in a variety <strong>of</strong> flavors, with a large selection <strong>of</strong><br />
toppings. Custom donut bar. Open 11 AM to 11 PM daily.<br />
Turks Kebab — At Craft Market on Sand Castle Drive. Tel: 431-<br />
9964. Turkish and Mediterranean fare. Salads, falafel, gyros,<br />
kebabs, hummus. Open for lunch and dinner.<br />
Via Veneto — Ports <strong>of</strong> Call. Tel: 941-2372. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic Italian<br />
dining in a stylish indoor/outdoor venue. Open from 5:30 PM to<br />
late. Closed Thursday. Saturday is Pizza Night!<br />
The Vix Asian Bistro & Grill — Regent Village. Tel: 941-4144.<br />
Contemporary Asian menu with a wok station, dim sum, vegan<br />
specialties and keto dishes. Open daily 7:30 AM to 3 PM; 5 to<br />
9:45 PM. Delivery to select locations. Catering menus.<br />
Yoshi’s Sushi & Grill — The Saltmills. Tel: 941-3374/431-<br />
0012. Sushi bar menu plus Japanese cuisine. Open daily Noon<br />
to 3 PM; 6 to 10 PM. Closed Sunday. Dine indoors or out. Carry<br />
out available.<br />
Zest! — Gansevoort Turks + Caicos. Tel: 232-4444. Lunch and<br />
dinner beachfront. Taste <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Caribbean and Americas. Open<br />
daily Noon to 5 PM; 6 to 9 PM. Fisherman’s night Wednesday. a<br />
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SAMPLING THE SOUL OF THE TURKS & CAICOS ISLANDS<br />
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PROUDLY SERVING THE ENERGY NEEDS OF THE<br />
TURKS & CAICOS ISLANDS<br />
Our Executive Team<br />
At FortisTCI, we are committed to<br />
providing safe, reliable energy to<br />
fuel <strong>the</strong> growth <strong>of</strong> our islands and<br />
meet <strong>the</strong> needs <strong>of</strong> our customers.<br />
Eddinton Powell<br />
President & CEO<br />
Ruth Forbes<br />
Senior Vice President <strong>of</strong><br />
Corporate Services & CFO<br />
Devon Cox<br />
Senior Vice President <strong>of</strong><br />
Operations<br />
And, as <strong>the</strong> energy landscape<br />
changes, FortisTCI will be here,<br />
delivering even more energy<br />
solutions and building a sustainable<br />
energy future for <strong>the</strong> Turks and<br />
Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />
Nigel Hosein<br />
VP <strong>of</strong> Energy Production &<br />
Project Management<br />
Rachell Roullet<br />
VP <strong>of</strong> Technology, Innovation<br />
& Strategic Planning<br />
Allan Robinson<br />
VP <strong>of</strong> Grand Turk & Sister<br />
Island Operations<br />
www.fortistci.com | 649-946-4313 |
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