Times of the Islands Summer 2019

TIMES 

SAMPLING THE SOUL OF THE TURKS & CAICOS ISLANDS SUMMER 2019 NO. 127 

OF THE 

ISLANDS 

HUMPBACK WHALES 

Then to now 

CONCHED OUT? 

Local fishery in peril 

SALT OF THE EARTH 

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contents 

Departments 

6 From the Editor 

13 Getting to Know 

Chelsea Stubbs 

By Kathy Borsuk 

Photos By Daphne Roots 

16 Eye on the Sky 

Let it Rain! 

By Paul Wilkerson 

30 Creature Feature 

A Master of Illusion: The Longlure Frogfish 

By Brian Heagney ~ Photos By Sabine Frank, 

Humpback Dive Shack, Grand Turk 

54 Exploring the Islands 

Finding the Salt of the Earth 

Story & Photos By Mat Matlack 

60 Faces & Places 

Caribbean House Evolution 2019 

72 About the Islands/TCI Map 

77 Where to Stay 

78 Classified Ads 

80 Dining Out 

82 Subscription Form 

Features 

22 Conched Out? 

By Kathleen Wood 

40 The Hunt for Whales 

By Ben Stubenberg 

48 Gentle Giants 

Story & Photos By Kelly Currington 

TIMES 

OF THE 

ISLANDS 

SAMPLING THE SOUL OF THE TURKS & CAICOS ISLANDS SUMMER 2019 NO. 127 

On the Cover 

Brian Heagney of The Humpback Dive Shack on Grand 

Turk took this photo of a humpback whale this Winter 

season. His business specializes in eco-friendly, lowimpact 

whale watching/swimming (January to April), 

scuba diving, Stingray tours and snorkeling around the 

warm waters of Grand Turk and Salt Cay. For more information, 

visit humpbackdiveshack.com. 

Green Pages 

32 “Fingerprinting” Whales 

By Cathy Bacon, Mithriel MacKay and 

Katharine Hart ~ Photos By Katharine Hart, 

Deep Blue Charters 

36 All is Not Well 

Tissue Loss Disease 

Story & Photos By Erin Bowman and 

Heidi Hertler 

Astrolabe 

62 Bold and Unapologetic 

Story & Photos By Dr. Michael Pateman and 

Vanessa Forbes-Pateman 

66 To the Rescue 

By Dr. Shaun Sullivan and Dr. Michael Pateman 

Photos Courtesy Turks & Caicos National 

Museum 

EDITOR’S NOTE: OOPS! It was brought to my attention that this image, 

appearing on page 36 of the Spring 2019 Times of the Islands was 

drastically misidentified. It was not a “clump of tube sponges” but a 

Pencil Urchin (Heterocentrotus sp.). Brian Heagney of the Humpback 

Dive Shack in Grand Turk comments, “From the image it is clear that 

the animal is still alive and it would be considered uncommon to find 

them on the beach alive—rather in tide pools and shallow reefs close 

to the beach. They can be washed ashore in storm conditions and 

soon after death the ‘pencils’ break away from the body and can be 

found while (beach)combing.” Amy Avenant of the DECR concurs, adding, 

“They do leave behind the loveliest of shells when they ‘expire’ 

and their spines are often sought after for jewelry (not great).” The 

error is entirely mine and I appreciate our eagle-eye readers. 

MARTA MORTON—WWW.HARBOURCLUBVILLAS.COM 

4 www.timespub.tc

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from the editor 

KATHARINE HART–DEEP BLUE CHARTERS, GRAND TURK 

Yes, this is a trio of whales “waving” their pectoral fins in the waters between Salt Cay and Cotton Cay this winter season. The photo was 

taken as part of the TCI Humpback Whale Citizen Science Project. (See page 32.) 

Good News, Bad News 

Good news: This winter season (2018/19) was excellent for residents, visitors and scientists eager to observe 

humpback whales migrating from the northern Atlantic to the Caribbean’s warmer waters to give birth and mate. I’m 

so pleased at the expansive coverage we are able to provide in this issue of this important seasonal ritual that has 

deep roots in history. 

Bad news: TCI’s conch fishery could be in trouble if active steps are not taken now to protect the country’s iconic 

mollusk. Be sure to read Kathleen Wood’s outline of the situation and suggested remedies. 

Good news: On May 1, 2019, TCI’s nationwide ban on single-use plastic bags took effect. As someone who was 

trained by my mother to use cloth bags for decades (and who endured the strange looks of Provo store clerks for 

many years), I am ecstatic! I admire local supermarket chain Graceway IGA for their “Staying Blue” campaign, designed 

to encourage shoppers to earn tokens to donate to charities each time they bring or buy a reusable bag. 

Bad news: As reported by Heidi Hertler and scientists at the School for Field Studies on South Caicos (page 36), 

an unusual disease has been spotted on coral reefs there and on West Caicos. Fortunately, it has been caught early 

and could be remedied with the help of research done in other places where it has struck. 

Ah! How we must pray for our “groaning” planet! But how thankful I am that we have so many concerned people 

doing their “work on the ground” to help save it. 

Kathy Borsuk, Editor 

timespub@tciway.tc • (649) 946-4788 

6 www.timespub.tc

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TIMES 

MANAGING EDITOR 

Kathy Borsuk 

ADVERTISING MANAGER 

Claire Parrish 

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS 

Amy Avenant, Cathy Bacon, Kathy Borsuk, Erin Bowman, 

Kelly Currington, Vanessa Forbes-Pateman, Katharine Hart, 

Brian Heagney, Heidi Hertler, Mithriel MacKay, Mat Matlack, 

Dr. Michael P. Pateman, Ben Stubenberg, Dr. Shaun Sullivan, 

Lisa Talbot, Ziahon Taylor, Paul Wilkerson, Kathleen Wood. 

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS 

Almay.com, Erin Bowman, Caribbean House Evolution, 

Kelly Currington, Vanessa Forbes-Pateman, Sabine Frank– 

Humpback Dive Shack, Katharine Hart–Deep Blue Charters, 

Brian Heagney–Humpback Dive Shack, Heidi Hertler, 

Istock.com, Mat Matlack, Marta Morton–Harbour Club Villas, 

Dr. Michael P. Pateman, Daphne Roots, Ramona Settle, 

Turks & Caicos National Museum, Paul Wilkerson. 

CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS 

Caribbean Climate Outlook Forum, 

Wavey Line Publishing 

PRINTING 

PF Solutions, Miami, FL 

OF THE 

ISLANDS 

Times of the Islands ISSN 1017-6853 is 

published quarterly by Times Publications Ltd. 

Copyright © 2019 by Times Publications Ltd. All rights reserved 

under Universal and Pan American Copyright Conventions. 

No part of this publication may be 

reproduced without written permission. 

Subscriptions $28/year; $32/year for 

non-U.S. mailing addresses 

Submissions We welcome submission of articles or photography, but 

assume no responsibility for care and return of unsolicited material. 

Return postage must accompany material if it is to be returned. In no 

event shall any writer or photographer subject this magazine to any 

claim for holding fees or damage charges on unsolicited material. 

While every care has been taken in the compilation and reproduction of 

information contained herein to ensure correctness, such information is 

subject to change without notice. The publisher accepts no 

responsibility for such alterations or for typographical or other errors. 

Business Office 

Times Publications Ltd., P.O. Box 234, 

Lucille Lightbourne Building #1, 

Providenciales, Turks & Caicos Islands, BWI 

Tel/Fax 649 946 4788 

Advertising 649 431 7527 

E-mail timespub@tciway.tc 

Web: www.timespub.tc 

12 www.timespub.tc

getting to know 

BWIC top student Chelsea Stubbs achieved academic accolades while overcoming 

great difficulties at home. 

She Will Reap 

BWIC student Chelsea Stubbs. 

By Kathy Borsuk ~ Photo By Daphne Roots 

Let us not grow weary or become discouraged in doing good, 

for at the proper time we will reap, if we do not give in. 

Most of us are familiar with the Bible verse that tells us that we reap what we sow. It’s always uplifting 

when we witness a concrete example of this credo in action. 

Times of the Islands Summer 2019 13

Chelsea Stubbs, the British West Indies Collegiate’s 

Head Girl, bears an incredible list of academic accomplishments. 

She earned the “Top BWIC Student Award 

from Year 7 to Year 11” and achieved the coveted place 

of “Valedictorian of the Year 11 Class of 2017.” Two 

years after achieving ten A*s at IGCSE, she has just completed 

her final year of the Advanced Level courses in 

Mathematics, Biology and Chemistry and achieved all 

As in her AS exams. But her greater success came when 

she was lauded as “Top in the World for Cambridge 

International AS Level Chemistry,” achieving the highest 

mark in the world in her three Chemistry papers. She did 

similarly well in Biology (93%) and Mathematics (94%). 

Other accolades include being recognized as the 

country’s Top Science and Humanities student and Overall 

Best Performing Student (shared with Tyrese Saunders) 

during the National Academic Awards in January 2019. 

During her educational career at BWIC, she has also won 

first place in the National Inter-High School Spelling Bee 

and first place in the Fortis Science Quiz for three consecutive 

years. At the same time, she was a formidable force 

on the BWIC softball and volleyball teams, both national 

champions. 

What does this have to do with sowing? At the same 

time as all of this was taking place in 2017, Chelsea’s 

father, Bennett Stubbs, suffered two massive strokes. 

Single-handedly at their home, Chelsea nursed her father 

through his illness and recovery, cared for her grandfather 

Stanley Stubbs, and ran the household. She traveled 

with her dad on hospital visits to the Dominican Republic 

(she is fluent in Spanish and was well able to represent 

him), as well as to the US for speech therapy. 

I can’t imagine how hard it must have been for a teenager 

to contend with so many responsibilities. However, 

Chelsea does not dwell on difficulties; instead, she turns 

them into learning experiences. She would undertake 

extra studies at school after spending the entire night at 

the hospital, tending to her father. When he came home, 

Chelsea used the Internet to learn about nursing and 

stroke rehabilitation. Through it all, she never questioned 

having to do the right thing. 

Others have sowed into Chelsea’s life, as well, and 

are now delighted with her success. Besides her father’s 

life-long advice to put her best effort towards everything 

she does, Chelsea credits her godparents, Mr. and Mrs. 

Warren Forde, with setting her sights high. “They always 

lifted me up and encouraged me to do well in school. I 

wanted to make them proud and show that their support 

was not wasted.” 

Chelsea Stubbs excels in science and will be attending Imperial 

College in London this September to study medicine. 

After her primary education at B.E.S.T. Institute, 

Chelsea was offered a full seven-year scholarship by 

Graceway IGA to attend BWIC. Her dream had come true 

and she joined the Collegiate in Year 7 (Form 1). BWIC 

Principal Sylvie Wigglesworth states, “Her academic brilliance 

and high degree of self-discipline were impressive 

from day one. She never took anything for granted and 

continued on her quest for excellence.” Besides being 

Chelsea’s principal, Mrs. Wigglesworth has been her 

mentor for years. Chelsea says, “Madame has been a very 

special part of my life and I will never forget how she went 

out of her way to help me countless times. I did not know 

there could be so much love in the heart of one person.” 

Chelsea adds that she also received a lot of support 

from her Biology and Physics teachers at the Collegiate. 

“They made a significant contribution to my success. 

They always believed in my abilities and were instrumental 

in seeding a deep love for the subjects. They were 

constantly taking me beyond the confines of the syllabus, 

making science fun and rewarding by placing it into the 

context of the wider world.” 

14 www.timespub.tc

BWIC ad May 2019 Times 2_Layout 1 5/22/19 1:17 PM Page 1 

During her A levels, although Chelsea did her best to 

make good use of her time at school, she inevitably had 

to miss some lessons due to being at the hospital with 

her dad, preparing for medical school entrance exams, 

and flying to England for university interviews. She says, 

“I am very grateful to the school and my teachers, espcially 

Miss Jones, who have supported me in and outside 

school, for understanding my situation and trusting that 

I would make up for lost time. I would also like to thank 

a benevolent member of the community and his wife for 

taking me into their home while my dad was away so 

I could have a quiet space to prepare for the Year 12 

exams.” 

What does the future hold for this ever-smiling, 

upbeat 19 year-old? Chelsea hopes to use her life experience 

to learn to heal others. With a full scholarship from 

the TCI Government (as Top National Scholar), she plans 

to study medicine and has completed difficult interviews 

at Sheffield and Manchester Medical Schools in the UK, as 

well as Imperial College in London, one of the most prestigious 

schools of medicine in the world. All three have 

offered her a place, with Chelsea preferring Imperial, and 

anticipating a September start. 

Her scholarship bond requires that she return to 

TCI to practice medicine for five years and this humble 

student has clear ideas on how she wants to “doctor.” 

She says, “I want to be a general practitioner, talking to 

patients, learning about their needs, and then being the 

one to send them to the necessary specialist. My goal is 

to diagnose disease, especially mental illness, early-on 

and treat my patients as whole persons–mind, body and 

soul.” 

Chelsea has engaged in meaningful work experience, 

volunteering at the Provo Children’s Home and 

local Emergency Medical Service. She also shadows Dr. 

Bourne and Dr. Menzies at Associated Medical Practices 

in Providenciales. 

It is clear that Chelsea Stubbs is not a person out for 

accolades. She is calm, happy, and very well-rounded. She 

plays the flute in the BWIC band, bakes cakes, cupcakes 

and brownies and loves to read 20th century history. 

She wants to nurture the seeds of opportunity that have 

sprouted in her young life. As Chelsea says, “Good things 

follow you when you are determined to work hard to 

accomplish them.” a 

By the way, Chelsea reports that her father has made an 

excellent recovery and is back to a happy life as normal. 

THE GOLD STANDARD OF PRIVATE 

SECONDARY EDUCATION IN TCI 

Established in 1993 in the heart of Providenciales, the 

British West Indies Collegiate provides high quality 

education from age 11 through to 18 (Years 7 to 13), based 

on the British National Curriculum. The school is an 

accredited Cambridge Assessment International Education 

Centre for IGCSE and GCE Advanced Level qualifications 

as well as a SAT centre. The student population comprises 

approximately 160 students, typically made up of 60% 

Turks & Caicos Islanders and 40% international students. 

Facilities at the Collegiate include four science 

laboratories, a 25-unit computer room, an extensive 

library, a Sixth Form common room, and Brayton Hall - 

our fully-equipped performance centre. We welcome 

applications from all age groups. However, placement is 

strictly based on performance in the school's entrance 

examinations. 

A high proportion of the Collegiate's IGCSE and A-Level 

graduates consistently achieve distinction with the highest 

grades in a range of academic subjects. History has 

repeatedly shown that our A-Level graduates prove not 

only to be suitably equipped to compete for places in the 

world's top universities, but also thrive once they reach 

there. Two of our Year 12 students have been the recipients 

of the Cambridge Outstanding Learner Awards, “Top in 

the world” in Mathematics (June 2015) and “Top in the 

world” in Chemistry (June 2018) at Advanced Subsidiary 

Level. 

Please contact the Principal, 

Mrs Wigglesworth. Email: principal@bwic.tc 

or call +1 649 941 3333. 

We will be happy to give you a private tour of 

the school. Website: www.bwic.tc. 

______________________ 

SUPPORT NON-PROFIT 

EDUCATION IN TCI 

BWIC is a non-profit institution and is always in need of 

funds to provide scholarships. We have a small number of 

sponsors and donors, but would greatly welcome 

additional support. Every scholarship will provide a young 

Turks & Caicos Islander access to an outstanding 

education. The Collegiate was originally endowed by a 

US-registered 501(c)(3) foundation, and donations made 

to that foundation for onward transmission to BWIC are 

tax-deductible for US citizens. If you are thinking of 

contributing to the growth and development of the Turks 

& Caicos Islands and its population, a donation to BWIC 

is one of the best ways you can help. 


MARTA MORTON – WWW.HARBOURCLUBVILLAS.COM

eye on the sky 

Opposite page: May through July is the first small peak of rainfall in the TCI, followed by the primary rainy season from October to December. 

Above: This mid-afternoon rain shower fell on Pumpkin Bluff Pond on North Caicos. 

PAUL WILKERSON 

Let it Rain! 

The annual roller coaster. 

By Paul Wilkerson 

As a tourist to the Turks & Caicos Islands, I can count on one hand the number of times it has rained 

during our stays! Many visitors don’t realize what a commodity rainfall is, and how desperately it is 

needed here. When it comes to water availability, it is vitally important for the Islands to get frequent rainfall. 

Many residents are dependent on “sky juice” captured via roofs and gutters and stored in a cistern 

or “tank.” When that runs dry, they must purchase “city” water from the desalination plant on island, as 

well as bottled water for their everyday use. Besides home use, fresh water is needed for gardens, farms 

and animals. In fact, water is one of life’s necessities that we take all too much for granted outside of the 

Caribbean and other locations where it is often scarce. 


MARTA MORTON—WWW.HARBOURCLUBVILLAS.COM 

Above: The TCI’s primary rain clouds tend to develop over East and Middle Caicos, then move towards Providenciales. 

Below: These maps forecasting precipitation for the Caribbean over the next several months are a product of the Caribbean Regional Climate 

Center. Its goal is to support the region’s socio-economic development by generating suites of climate products and services to inform riskbased 

decision-making in climate sensitive sectors. For more information, visit https://rcc.cimh.edu.bb 

Thankfully, Mother Nature can help bridge the gap 

and bring much needed fresh water to the Islands that 

can be captured and utilized in many different ways by 

those who live here. Many homes across all of the Islands 

utilize cisterns, some of which can be quite large, capable 

of holding thousands of gallons of water. Whenever 

beneficial rains fall, even if for only a few minutes, these 

homes can capture this fresh water through funneling 

systems that direct it into home “tanks.” Owners can then 

utilize that water daily to take care of themselves and 

their households. This reduces not only the requirement 

for desalinated water, but it also helps keep water costs 

lower for owners when rainfall is abundant. And in the 

Turks & Caicos Islands, rainfall is a very welcome product! 

18 www.timespub.tc

Many may be surprised to learn that some parts of 

the Turks & Caicos can annually average as much as 40 

inches of rain or slightly higher, while other parts average 

less than 25 inches. The winners in the rainfall department 

are North and Middle Caicos, along with Providenciales. 

Those receiving the least amount of rainfall are Grand 

Turk, Salt Cay, South Caicos and the smaller cays to the 

east of their larger neighbors mentioned before. 

There are several reasons why this is likely to occur. 

In the 2018/19 Winter issue of Times of the Islands, we 

talked about cloud formations and where we normally see 

that occur. Thanks to the larger land mass and gradual 

upsloping of East and Middle Caicos, we normally see 

our primary rain clouds develop in these general areas. 

With the ever-present tradewinds coming from the east 

and southeast the majority of the time, these clouds will 

produce rainfall across North and Middle Caicos and 

continue on to produce rainfall over Providenciales and 

nearby cays. Visitors to the Islands will note vegetation 

appear more lush across North and Middle Caicos and 

this is due primarily to the higher amounts of rainfall 

these islands experience. Unfortunately for Grand Turk, 

Salt Cay and South Caicos, the terrain is rather flat and 

therefore don’t get the necessary lift in the atmosphere 

necessary to produce rainfall. This results in very low 

rainfall amounts during the year and very arid conditions 

normally. 

There are periods of the year when the Turks & 

Caicos have what could be called a “rainy season.” More 

correctly said, it is the time when the Islands experience 

their greatest amount of rainfall. TCI usually sees its first 

small peak between May and July. This can largely be contributed 

to tropical waves and disturbances that move 

through the Atlantic Ocean and Caribbean Sea during the 

beginning into middle portions of the hurricane season. 

In years when the hurricane season is not very active, the 

TCI in general will see below-normal rainfall. 

The primary rainy season is typically from October 

through December, when the Islands can get as much 

as 40% of their entire seasonal rainfall. In this instance 

however, there are two factors at play that contribute to 

this flux in the season. The first factor is the fact that we 

are still in hurricane season. Tropical waves will continue 

to impact the Turks & Caicos generally until late October 

or early November. Most important is the second factor, 

and that would be the change to northern hemisphere 

fall and winter. As we transition into these seasons, the 

jet stream—which is responsible for moving low pressure 

systems across the United States—begins to sink south 

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into the lower portions of the US and at times well down 

into the Gulf of Mexico. This allows trailing cold fronts to 

routinely swing through the Islands during this time. This 

also greatly increases the chances of rainfall. Naturally 

once we exit hurricane season and are dependent solely 

on systems from the US, the average rainfall falls off once 

again for January through April with much drier conditions 

as a result. 

As tourists, naturally our instinct tells us we don’t 

want to see rainfall while we are visiting. I propose we 

change our thinking. Based on what you have read here, 

my hope is that on your next adventure to the Islands, if 

you experience rain, take a moment to celebrate with the 

Belongers. While that rainfall may cause a small inconvenience 

in your day, it is providing life sustainment for 

those who call the Turks & Caicos Islands home! a 

Paul Wilkerson is an American meteorologist and tourist 

who frequents the Turks & Caicos Islands. Along with 

his wife and two daughters, the Wilkersons stay actively 

engaged with Islanders throughout the year with his 

Facebook page Turks and Caicos Islands Weather Info. 

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Bringing weather education to schools 

The Turks and Caicos Weather Facebook page is 

proud to announce that we are working to bring 

weather technology to the schools of the Turks & 

Caicos Islands. During the last two months, the 

weather page launched an initiative to provide 

weather stations to schools, with the goal of placing 

a weather station into each school on each island. 

While this will take some time, I am pleased to 

report that as of this writing, four weather stations 

have been delivered to the Islands and are being distributed 

to a high school on Providenciales, a high 

school on North Caicos, the primary school on South 

Caicos and the primary school on Grand Turk. 

With Hurricane Irma still on everyone’s mind, 

now is a great time to work with local children to 

get them interested in weather and how it impacts 

their lives. Through this outreach, students can learn 

to track weather conditions using these stations and 

can work to build local climatology that may become 

useful in the years to come for seasonal impacts. 

We would like to thank Tito and Atekah Seymour 

for being the hands and feet on the Islands. They 

have worked tirelessly to ensure shipment and safe 

arrival of the weather stations and coordinated with 

the schools to have them delivered or picked up. 

We would also like to thank all of our donors on the 

weather page! Without their donations, this venture 

would not be possible. 

If you would like to help us bring weather stations 

to the Turks & Caicos Islands, please contact 

Paul or Brande Wilkerson at pwilkerson74@yahoo. 

com to discuss how you can be a part of impacting 

the lives of TCI children. a 

Tito Seymour presents a weather station to Vice Principal Beverly 

Malcom at the Ira Stubbs Primary School on South Caicos. 

20 www.timespub.tc

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feature 

Opposite page and above: Conch is particularly vulnerable to overexploitation, due to its slow mobility, habitat in shallow, accessible water 

and relatively slow growth and reproductive cycles. 

MARTA MORTON – WWW.HARBOURCLUBVILLAS.COM 

It just wouldn’t be the Turks & Caicos without conch. Who hasn’t visited without sampling a conch salad, 

typically made with meat fresh from the shell, or a bowl of conch chowder, each concoction a reflection 

of the cook’s creativity? Whether cracked conch, steamed conch, conch ‘n’ rice, or conch fritters, the 

ubiquitous ingredient is a Turks & Caicos tradition, as are photos and artwork of and crafts made from 

its pearly pink shell. 

Conched Out? 

The clock is running out on TCI’s conch fishery. 

By Kathleen Wood 

But all is not rosy when it comes to this beloved mollusk. The collapse of conch fisheries throughout 

the region serves as a precautionary tale for TCI’s compromised conch. 


Earlier in 2019, research spanning decades in the 

Bahamas concluded that without significant intervention 

and changes to fishing policy, the Bahamian queen conch 

Lobatus gigas fishery will collapse within 10–15 years 

(Allan W Stoner, Davis, & Kough, 2019). Conch populations 

in legal fishing grounds in the Bahamas have declined by 

as much as 90%. Even more alarming are declines in protected 

areas, where conch are aging and dying out, as 

younger recruits are not moving in to replace them. 

The Bahamas are just the latest in a series of conch 

industry collapses that have been occurring across the 

species’ range for the past few decades. In Florida, the 

conch fishery collapsed more than 40 years ago and has 

still not recovered. In 1992, conch was listed under the 

Convention on Trade in Endangered Species (CITES) due 

to concerns regarding stock depletion from overfishing 

and inadequate management. Nevertheless, stocks continued 

to decline and by 2004, trade was suspended in 

the Dominican Republic, Haiti, Honduras, Antigua and 

Barbuda, Barbados, Dominica and Trinidad and Tobago, 

based on evidence of declining stock and/or lack of effective 

management in those countries. 

Conch is particularly vulnerable to overexploitation, 

due to its slow mobility, habitat in shallow, accessible 

water and relatively slow growth and reproductive cycles. 

Under CITES, a country such as the Turks & Caicos Islands 

can only export conch if they can demonstrate that such 

export is not detrimental to the survival of the species 

(Theile, 2005; Truelove et al., 2017). TCI can no longer 

honestly make a no-detriment statement to CITES. 

The Bahamas findings should set off alarm bells in the 

Turks & Caicos, where similar patterns of declining conch 

stocks over the past 10 years indicate that TCI’s conch 

fishery is also in peril. Since 2008, TCI’s conch catch has 

been reduced by more than 50%. Once-abundant, shallow 

water stocks have been all but fished out and fisherfolk 

are now forced to move into deeper water, further offshore, 

in order to find enough conch to meet a burgeoning 

demand. Unlike the Bahamas, TCI does not have meticulously 

recorded data over the same time frame from which 

to draw conclusive evidence. Unfortunately, this lack of 

data has been used as an excuse to maintain the status 

quo; however, business as usual, at this time when resolute 

action is needed, will likely result in the collapse and 

loss of TCI’s iconic fishery in a relatively short period of 

time. The region is full of examples that serve as harbingers 

of this fate. 

In 2006, a sweeping assessment of the world’s 

fisheries stocks revealed a disturbing trend: 63% of the 

world’s fisheries were being over-fished (Worm et al., 

2009). Six years later, the trend was worsening. Assessed 

were 4,713 fisheries worldwide, representing 78% of the 

world’s fish catch. Of these, only 32% were found to be 

in good biological condition (Costello et al., 2016). Both 

studies specifically concluded that the “business as usual” 

approach to fisheries management was largely culpable 

for global fisheries collapse and that without significant 

alterations to the status quo, the trend of collapse will 

undoubtedly continue. 

Numbers don’t lie 

As with many of the world’s collapsing fisheries, the TCI’s 

management of the conch fishery relies on a quota system, 

based on the determination of maximum sustained 

yield (MSY). In other words, each year a number is determined 

that, in theory, allows for the maximum amount of 

conch that can be taken and naturally replaced through 

breeding. The use of MSY has been the standard for most 

of the world’s fisheries for decades; however, a comprehensive 

study of fisheries in ten large marine ecosystems 

determined that at fishing rates equal to 90% of MSY, at 

least 50% of targeted fish stocks were collapsing (Worm et 

al., 2009). TCI has been fishing conch at rates above 90% 

MSY for at least 15 years. 

Even in an ideal world, where MSY is accurately determined 

with data from visual surveying of conch stocks 

in the field, fishermen cannot necessarily safely remove 

close to the MSY figure and be assured that similar numbers 

will be harvestable into the future. TCI does not have 

accurate visual survey data, although a partial survey was 

conducted in 2012–2014, which suggested that TCI’s MSY 

for conch hovers around 600,000 pounds. Nevertheless, 

TCI established a quota of 820,000 pounds of landed, 

unprocessed meat, including 500,000 pounds for export 

and 320,000 pounds for local consumption. 

A recent study looking at fisheries landings in 

TCI found that actual conch catch is at least two times 

higher than what is being reported (Ulman, Burke, Hind, 

Ramdeen, & Zeller, 2016), and that local consumption 

alone probably equates to the entire quota. This stark 

reality indicates that conch in TCI has been over-fished 

for several years. Although many people in TCI blame the 

decline of conch stocks on hurricanes, the data demonstrate 

that over-fishing is the more likely culprit. 

The problems with policy 

TCI currently regulates the conch fishery under the 

Fisheries Protection Ordinance (FPO) and National Parks 

24 www.timespub.tc

Ordinance (NPO) in several ways: 

• A quota system limits the amount of allowable catch. 

• A closed season for export reduces demand from 

July 15–November 15. 

• Restrictions on size (total shell length of 7 inches, 

uncleaned meat weight of 8 ounces and filet weight 

of 4 ounces) reduces the taking of juveniles. 

• Designation of closed areas protects critical juvenile 

habitats and areas for spawning and reproduction. 

• A prohibition against using scuba and other 

artificial breathing gear limits the amount of conch 

that can be harvested at depth. 

While TCI’s laws and policies to regulate conch were 

considered standard when they were developed many 

years ago, as with most dated fisheries policies they have 

not been sufficient to prevent stocks from declining. 

The quota system is inherently flawed because it 

doesn’t take into consideration the myriad environmental 

factors that affect species populations. Healthy habitats, 

relationships with other species, and protection during 

vulnerable breeding and juvenile life stages are essential 

in determining whether a species thrives or fails. Even 

when fisheries are well-regulated, with up-to-date stock 

assessments to determine MSY, many are collapsing. 

Quota systems are now considered outdated and ineffective 

on their own, and contemporary fisheries scientists 

now propose an ecosystem approach to fisheries and 

other conservation management. This takes into consideration 

not only the amount of a species to be harvested, 

but also the protection of habitat and integration of each 

Cays Winter Times 2018_Layout 1 11/14/18 10:30 AM Page 1 

species’ unique life history. 

The current quota for TCI is arbitrary and is not based 

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Times Kevin_Times Kevin 9/18/18 10:51 AM Page 1 

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on any actual data. Data that has been collected suggests 

that conch consumed locally are already at or above MSY. 

How many conch are there in TCI? Where are they breeding? 

What ages are they? Where are the important juvenile 

habitats located? We cannot possibly determine how conch 

can be sustainably harvested without this information. 

Closed seasons can be a highly effective means of 

protecting fisheries stocks and are an important component 

of an ecosystem approach to management. Typically, 

a season closes during the targeted species’ breeding season. 

For TCI’s lobster Panulirus argus fishery, the closed 

season falls roughly between April and September, which 

corresponds nicely with the time of year when most lobsters 

are spawning. The conch closed season from mid-July 

to mid-November unfortunately does not correspond well 

with the conch’s breeding patterns, which typically also 

occur during the months from April to September. Conch 

are currently being fully harvested during peak breeding 

season, which can only have extremely detrimental effects 

on the species’ capacity to replenish itself. Furthermore, 

TCI’s closed season is only closed to export. We now know 

that the bulk of TCI’s conch catch goes to local consumption; 

therefore, a season closed to export alone does little 

to serve sustainable conch management interests. 

Size restrictions are often used in fisheries management 

to allow species to reach breeding age before 

they are harvested. The hypothesis is that minimum size 

restrictions will allow many individuals to make it to reproductive 

age and thereby replace those harvested. In the 

case of conch, it has been known for many years that most 

size measurements cannot be correlated to reproductive 

maturity (A. Stoner, Mueller, Brown-Peterson, Davis, & 

Booker, 2012; A. W. Stoner & Ray, 1993). Sexually maturity 

can be reached when conch are as small or smaller 

than the seven inches stipulated under TCI law or when 

they significantly larger. A better estimate of sexual 

maturity is obtained by measuring shell lip thickness, and 

research has shown that a conch shell lip with a thickness 

of 15 mm correlates to a 50% probability that the conch 

will be sexually mature, with males maturing earlier than 

females (Allan W Stoner et al., 2019). TCI’s size regulations 

for queen conch are therefore biologically dubious, 

and a majority are probably being fished out before they 

are sexually mature. 

Protected areas that are closed to fishing and other 

harmful activities are critical components of a sensible 

ecosystem approach to fisheries management. In order 

to safeguard a species during vulnerable life phases, habitat 

for juveniles and spawning should be protected. In 

26 www.timespub.tc

TCI, only one protected area—the East Harbour Lobster 

and Conch Reserve, located off South Caicos—has been 

specifically designated for the conservation of conch. 

Unfortunately, the designation of this area allows for the 

harvest of up to 10 conch by an individual for personal 

consumption (Fisheries Protection Ordinance Regulation 

13). This loophole has led to the complete depopulation 

of conch within the reserve, rendering it practically useless. 

Another important site for conch is located between 

Little Water Cay and Mangrove Cay. This area is an important 

juvenile habitat for queen conch and densities of up 

to 1.1/m 2 (the highest recorded in TCI) were previously 

recorded (Pardee, 2008). The dredging of the Leeward 

Channel and dumping of spoil (Star Island) in the middle 

of the area has significantly degraded the habitat, and a 

subsequent recent study recorded densities reduced by a 

factor of four at this site. The area is also frequented by 

tour operators and has been further depopulated from 

illegal souvenir collection by unaware visitors. 

Other important sites for queen conch include spawning 

aggregation areas off Molasses Reef, the Fish Cays and 

West Sand Spit, and juvenile habitats within tidal creeks 

on East Caicos. These habitats all remain unprotected and 

fishing pressure continues, all but ensuring the species’ 

eventual demise in TCI. 

On a positive note, a progressive law under the FPO 

[Regulation 9(1c)] prohibits the use of scuba or other 

artificial breathing devices while fishing in TCI. Such prohibition 

limits the depth at which fishers can catch conch, 

since they are harvested via free diving. It has long been 

assumed that TCI’s unreachable “deep water stocks” 

allowed for the replenishment of shallower fishing areas 

on the Caicos Banks, and there is likely some veracity to 

this belief. Unfortunately, with shallow water stocks now 

depleted, fisherfolk are venturing into deeper and deeper 

water in search of conch to supply the country’s hefty 

demand. Exacerbating the situation is illegal fishing by 

poachers from nearby Hispaniola. Dominican poachers 

notoriously use underwater artificial breathing hookah 

apparatuses, specifically to target the deep-water stocks. 

These stocks are the last vestiges of the fishery in TCI, 

and once they have been fished out, no recovery will be 

possible. 

What can be done? 

When this article is published, the conch fishery will be 

closed to export for the closed season. Prior to the opening 

of the fishery, several steps should urgently be taken: 

Hugh final_Layout 1 5/29/17 1:15 PM Page 1 

P 

E 

R 

S 

HUGH G. O’NEILL 

& 

ATTORNEYSN 

AT 

L AW 

P.O. Box 267 

Hibernian House 

1136 Leeward Highway 

Providenciales 

Turks and Caicos Islands 

B.W.I. 

Tel 649-946-4514 

Fax 649-946-4955 

Email hugh.oneill@hgoneillco.tc 

C 

CO. O 

N 

F 

I 

D 

E 

N 

T 

I 

A 

L 


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Cockburn House, P.O. Box 70 

Market Street, Grand Turk 

Turks & Caicos Islands, BWI 

Ph: 649 946 2245 • Fax: 649 946 2758 

E-Mail: ffdlawco@tciway.tc 

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1. A comprehensive visual survey should be conducted 

immediately in order to establish an up-to-date population 

baseline and stock characteristics. 

2. Export should be discontinued until such a time that it 

can be determined via factual evidence that such export is 

not detrimental to the species, as per CITES requirements. 

3. The closed season should be moved to April 1– August 

31 in order to be more in sync with conch’s spawning 

activities. The closed season should also be closed to local 

exploitation, so that no conch can be harvested during the 

closed season at all. 

4. New size regulations, which use shell lip thickness 

(minimum 15mm), rather than overall shell length, should 

be implemented. The regulations should also require that 

conch are landed in their shell for enforcement purposes. 

5. Spawning aggregation sites and juvenile habitats 

should be comprehensively identified and protected from 

exploitation and degradation. 

6. Enforcement willingness and capacity to stop illegal 

poaching and other infractions of regulations must be 

improved. DECR needs the staff, vessels and willingness 

to accomplish its mandate. 

7. Government should develop economic support incentives 

for fisherfolk who will be disadvantaged by new 

policies. This could include alternative employment in 

infrastructure projects, payment for assistance with visual 

surveys and other needed scientific research and training 

for the development of alternative livelihoods. 

Queen conch has been a cornerstone of TCI’s economy 

and culture since Lucayan people arrived on these 

shores more than 1,000 years ago. In the 19th and early 

20th centuries, dried conch was a principal trade good, 

transported in traditional sailing sloops and sold in nearby 

Hispaniola. After the advent of flash freezing and cold 

storage, the industry blossomed into one of the country’s 

leading exports, contributing millions of dollars annually 

to TCI’s economy. 

TCI’s “business as usual” model for managing conch 

will result in the collapse of the fishery in a relatively short 

space of time. Collapsed conch fisheries across the region 

demonstrate that once conch is fished out, it does not 

return. TCI’s government and fisheries managers can 

no longer plead ignorance. We know a crisis is at hand 

and only immediate and decisive action will protect what 

is left of TCI’s legendary fishery. We can but hope that 

this administration will be the one that saves TCI’s conch 

rather than letting it become a sad and preventable footnote 

in history. The clock is ticking. a 

28 www.timespub.tc

RAMONA SETTLE 

Immediate and decisive action is required to preserve TCI’s iconic conch fishery for future generations. 


creature feature 

Is it a sponge . . . or a Frogfish? The tiny eyes and mouth give it away. 

A hidden gem on the reefs of the Turks & Caicos 

Islands, the Longlure Frogfish (Antennarius multiocellatus) 

is a demersal (living close to the sea floor), 

piscivorous (fish-eating) species that employs crypsis 

(ability to avoid being seen) to avoid predation and stalk 

its prey at the same time. It has a prickly, usually brightly 

colored skin (even yellow, red, pink or blue) and is often 

adorned with fleshy or filamentous spinules. 

A Master of Illusion 

Learning about the fascinating Frogfish. 

By Brian Heagney, B.Sc Marine Biology ~ Photos By Sabine Frank 

The Frogfish very effectively mimics a harmless invertebrate 

sponge on the reef. Rather than regularly visiting 

a cleaning station to be groomed as most other reef 

fishes do, the Frogfish actually encourages algal growth 

on its body to further complement its camouflage. This 

amazing fish can also change its color to match the surroundings, 

a biological skill called mimesis. 

All in all, this multi-faceted approach to camouflage 

makes the Frogfish a real master of illusion (and 

incredibly difficult to spot). The skin and its stomach are 

also extremely distensible, allowing this greedy critter 

to engulf prey twice its size. Even more remarkably, it 

catches its prey using a “fishing rod.” 

The first spine of its dorsal fin is highly modified into 

a long fishing rod (illicium) that is tipped with a delicate, 

feathery lure (esca). This little lure is wriggled enticingly 

above the mouth as a bait to attract other fishes that 

are then swallowed whole, in a nearly imperceptible 

split-second motion, as the Frogfish projects its jaw up 

and forward, creating a vacuum to suck its victim inside. 

30 www.timespub.tc

The Frogfish’s pectoral 

fins are also modified to have 

an elbow joint, allowing it to 

strangely plod around the reef 

on webbed feet rather than 

swimming. Like a lion, the 

Frogfish likes to stay close to 

its prey and will normally stay 

in the same area for several 

weeks at a time when the fishing 

is good, so once spotted 

you can return to try and search 

for it again. 

If a prey fish should not be 

attracted to its lure, the Frogfish 

will actually stalk it instead and 

it can suck its victims down the 

hatch from one body length 

away. To top it off, Frogfish are 

jet propelled—water sucked in 

through the mouth is expelled 

through small, circular gill 

openings behind the “legs” and 

this propulsion is used to hop 

The Frogfish actually encourages algal growth on its body to further complement its camouflage. 

around the reef in the fashion 

of its namesake. 

This unique and interesting little fish is a magnificently 

rare highlight on any dive and if you can find one 

it is extremely rewarding. The last one spotted in Grand 

Turk was at 30 feet deep on the Chief Minister’s (South) 

dive site. There are a number of species of Frogfish that 

could be encountered in the Turks & Caicos, including the 

Longlure, Splitlure, Dwarf, Ocellated and Sargassumfish. 

The most fantastic member of the family globally (for me) 

is a toss-up between the Giant and the Hairy. 

Have a closer look at the sponges on your next dive 

because one of the many amazing wonders of the underwater 

world might just be staring right back at you. a 

A native of Ireland, Brian moved to the Turks & Caicos 

with his wife Sabine in 2016 where they opened the 

Humpback Dive Shack on Grand Turk. Brian received his 

degree in Marine Biology from the Queens University of 

Belfast in 2001 and has been traveling the globe as a 

PADI Master Scuba Diver Trainer and underwater photographer 

since 2003. He holds an additional qualification 

in Tropical Habitat Conservation, is a certified whale and 

dolphin guide, a qualified boat captain and a self-taught 

outboard engine mechanic. 


green pages 

newsletter of the department of environment & coastal resources 

head office: church folly, grand turk, tel 649 946 2801 • fax 649 946 1895 

• astwood street, south caicos, tel 649 946 3306 • fax 946 3710 

• national environmental centre, lower bight road, providenciales 

parks division, tel 649 941 5122 • fax 649 946 4793 

fisheries division, tel 649 946 4017 • fax 649 946 4793 

email environment@gov.tc or dema.tci@gmail.com • web https://www.gov.tc/decr/ 

This humpback whale calf is breaching in the waters of the Turks Bank. 

“Fingerprinting” Whales 

Using whale sightings by citizen scientists in the Turks & Caicos Islands. 

There are few places in the world like the Turks & Caicos Islands where humans can enter the water and 

photograph some of the most spectacular, charismatic, and important animals on the planet. The Marine 

and Coastal Ecology Research Center (MCERC) is working closely with TCI residents, visitors, and whale 

watch operators and their guests who are enthusiastically contributing important data through citizen 

science initiatives. 

By Cathy E. Bacon M.Sc., Mithriel M. MacKay Ph.D., and Katharine Hart M.Sc. 

Photos By Katharine Hart, Deep Blue Charters, Grand Turk 

32 www.timespub.tc

green pages newsletter of the department of environment & coastal resources 

Photographs of humpback whales Megaptera novaeangliae 

(and dolphins!) can provide a great deal of 

information. There are two primary catalogs for humpback 

whale images: HappyWhale (happywhale.com) and 

the North Atlantic Humpback Whale Catalogue (www.coa. 

edu/allied-whale/research/). Scientists from all over the 

globe contribute images to these catalogs in addition to 

keeping their own smaller catalogs specific to their areas. 

Because the images are curated by dedicated and skilled 

scientists, the unique pigment patterns on the underside 

of whales’ tails (flukes), scars, and other natural markings 

can be used in scientific investigations. 

The pigment patterns on the flukes are a “fingerprint” 

and make it possible to match the images and determine 

how far within the Caribbean the whales travel, where 

they have been sighted on their feeding grounds in much 

higher latitudes, which other whales they are seen traveling 

and mating with throughout the North Atlantic, and 

so much more. 

Citizen Scientists (this could be you) are submitting 

snapshots and videos of the humpback whales underwater. 

Social media makes it easy to submit photos to 

MCERC and, in turn, creates a forum for MCERC’s senior 

marine biology staff to share information about these 

charismatic animals. 

The FaceBook group, “Turks and Caicos Islands 

Humpback Whale Sightings” (www.facebook.com/ 

TCIWhales/), was created and is maintained by Cathy 

Bacon. Cathy is a Senior Research Associate and co-author 

of multiple publications based on the marine 

mammal research studies with MCERC. Cathy communicates 

directly with the citizen scientists and shares the 

exciting matches that their contributions glean. The TCI 

Humpback Whale Catalog, maintained by MCERC, submits 

images on behalf of citizen scientist photographers and 

the research team to the larger repositories. They can be 

viewed globally by scientists studying these species. 

This past winter (2018/19) alone the citizen scientists, 

including whale watch operators, have provided 

images that were matched to Samaná Bay or Silver Bank, 

Dominican Republic (Joanne Buddle, Alcides Falanghe, 

Marks and scars observed in photographs are used by researchers 

to identify individual whales in different locations over multiple seasons. 

Humpback Dive Shack), Newfoundland (Pat Mezzina, 

Joanne Buddle, Ines Moosman, Beth Grassette, Humpback 

Dive Shack), and the Gulf of Maine (Sean Brady, Jim Hayes, 

Paula Faiferman, Dave Dietze, Jay Lawson, Amy Looby, 

Shelley Jensen, Kell Talbot, Katharine Hart—Deep Blue 

Charters) helping MCERC to understand movement patterns 

and behaviors of migrating whales throughout the 

North Atlantic. The data captured by people enjoying 

their experience in the TCI is combined with the science 

team’s data and then shared with other researchers 

through publication in peer-reviewed journals and presentations. 

The photographers are always acknowledged 

as a valued part of the MCERC science team. 

Whales, dolphins, and porpoises (cetaceans) in the 

TCI are not well studied. Whales and dolphins are often 

seen from land and vessels throughout the TCI and while 

the tourism industry (from large cruise ships to small tour 



Images of the tail fluke of humpback whales are useful for identification. 

This young humpback whale (above) has a “firework” on its 

fluke, making it easy to identify throughout the 2019 season. 

operators) recognizes the TCI as an attractive destination 

for visitors, the impact to local cetacean populations 

is unknown. There is preliminary evidence suggesting 

the Turks & Caicos is a significant migratory destination 

for North Atlantic humpback whales, as well as other 

resident cetaceans. Year-round, Cetaceans have been 

sighted nearshore and offshore, including bottlenose dolphin 

(Tursiops truncatus), deep-diving offshore species 

(sperm whales [Physeter macrocephalus], beaked whales) 

and shallow swimming nearshore species (pilot whales 

[Globicephala sp.], dolphins). 

MCERC is dedicated to providing research and education 

opportunities aimed at increasing an investment 

in conservation and preservation of healthy marine and 

coastal ecosystems. Collaborations with people among 

the TCI is a valuable resource for promoting interest, 

gathering information, and maintaining an understanding 

of the elements most important to residents. 

MCERC supports scientific research of marine habitats 

and encourages participation of investigators with 

a similar mission. In 2017, MCERC began their primary 

project in the TCI in collaboration with the Department of 

the Environment & Coastal Resources (DECR), investigating 

the humpback whales wintering off the Turks Bank. 

Humpback whales migrate from the North Atlantic feeding 

grounds to lower latitudes throughout the Caribbean 

during their winter breeding season (January–April). 

An unexpected, yet incredibly important, benefit 

of the TCI Humpback Whale Citizen Science Project has 

been the increased awareness of global concerns regarding 

tourism and its impact on the humpback whales that 

are so loved throughout the Caribbean. There has been 

a great deal of misunderstanding that visitors are solely 

focused on getting as close as possible to the whales. 

Tour boat operators in the TCI have access to feedback 

from tourists and researchers through the FaceBook 

group which is highlighting two very interesting points for 

this economically important industry in the archipelago. 

First, tourists are more concerned with the well-being 

of the whales (especially moms and newborn calves) 

than getting too close to whales. Guests seek out whale 

watch operators that have responsible approaches to the 

whales, and shy away from the aggressive operators who 

are perceived as putting whales in danger. This means 

that a tour boat operator who chooses the best interest 

of the whales over getting too close to the whales will 

make more money through positive reviews and tips by 

their guests! The FaceBook group has been an effective 

way to communicate the best practice for operators and 

the positive response from guests. 

The second exciting outcome from the TCI Humpback 

Whale Citizen Science Project has been the following by 

people who love the TCI from near and far and want to 

stay connected to the activity of the humpback whales. 

It will be interesting to see if people visit TCI as a result 

34 www.timespub.tc


Did you know . . . ? 

Wheeland Pond information signs 

• Whale “poop” primes the 

food chain in all oceans? 

• Humpback whales are increasing in numbers 

throughout the North Atlantic? 

• Whales that die and fall to the bottom of the 

ocean create an entirely isolated mini ecosystem? 

• Only male humpback whales sing, but we still do 

not understand why? 

• The Turks & Caicos Islands are a “highway” to 

the rest of the Caribbean, and back to the northern 

areas? 

If you want to learn about these topics and more, 

join the Citizen Scientists and the MCERC Senior 

Scientists on our FaceBook page and let’s chat! a 

of reading about this research project that includes the 

people who know the country best. The membership to 

the group is steadily growing. 

Become a citizen scientist 

With your help, the marine biologists at MCERC will continue 

to build a better understanding of humpback whales 

in the TCI, the Caribbean, and the North Atlantic. If you 

have been lucky enough to go whale watching in the TCI, 

we would love to include your data to the MCERC TCI 

Humpback Whale Catalog. The FaceBook group has all 

the information explaining how to submit your video and 

still images and notes that even a seemingly poor photo 

can provide important information. Cathy Bacon and the 

rest of the science team can answer your questions. 

In fact, the more questions you post in the group, 

the more people will learn about TCI humpback whales, 

dolphins, turtles, and all topics related to marine biology. 

Summer is here and the humpback whales have traveled 

north to feed. You can become a citizen scientist while 

you organize all those photos you captured this winter. 

Join the FaceBook group and submit your video and photos 

from any year in the TCI and let’s discover if your 

photos match a humpback whale observed in the North 

Atlantic! a 

DECR officials and members of the Clement Howell High School’s 

Tourism Club stand by the new signs at Wheeland Pond. 

The Department of Environment & Coastal Resources 

(DECR) collaborated with the Clement Howell High 

School’s Tourism Club to install information signs at 

Wheeland Pond in Wheeland, Providenciales. 

The signs, one describing the mangrove ecosystem 

and the other encouraging the community to 

keep the ponds clean, were installed by the Tourism 

Club after the students banded together to create 

awareness about the importance of the wetland ecosystem 

following the annual World Wetlands Day 

clean-up, hosted by the DECR, earlier this year. 

DECR Environmental Outreach Coordinator Amy 

Avenant said, “We are encouraged to see young people 

concerned about the state of our environment 

and motivated enough to educate others about it 

too!” TCI Minister of Tourism, Environment, Heritage 

and Culture Hon. Ralph Higgs added, “I am pleased 

to see the collaborative effort between the DECR 

and Clement Howell High. This is a worthy initiative 

and one that we would like to see happen in schools 

across the Turks & Caicos through club memberships 

and other means.” 

The DECR and Clement Howell High’s Tourism 

Club would like to thank Ms. Tanya Parnell, Mr. 

Trevor Lewis of Graceway IGA and the Turks & Caicos 

Tourist Board for their support of this initiative. The 

DECR would also like to acknowledge the initiative 

taken by the students and thanks them for giving 

back to their local community and environment. a 



Clockwise from top: A diseased colony of maze coral (Meandrina meandrites) 

is spotted on a research dive. 

This colony of brain coral (Diploria labyrinthiformis) shows the blotching 

pattern brought on by Stony Coral Tissue Loss Disease. 

The disease makes its way across a colony of great star coral (Montastrea 

cavernosa). 

ERIN BOWMAN 

All is Not Well 

Tissue Loss Disease a threat to TCI reefs. 

Story and Photos By Erin Bowman and Heidi Hertler, Ph.D. 

In a time when climate change is wreaking havoc on coral reefs worldwide, the reefs of the Turks & Caicos 

Islands remain some of the most resilient and pristine in the Caribbean. They are home to more than 60 

species of stony coral that have been building for millions of years, creating the intricate reef systems 

known today. As worldwide reef degradation goes, the Caribbean has been the unfortunate epicenter, 

with significantly more damage and less recovery than in reefs of the Pacific or Mediterranean. There are 

many theories as to why this may be the case and likely it is due to a wide variety of reasons. 

36 www.timespub.tc


Geographically, the Caribbean’s location makes 

it vulnerable to the tradewinds that blow across Africa 

towards the Atlantic, bringing dust and sand particles 

from the Sahara along with them. It is thought that these 

iron-rich particles carried to the Caribbean reefs increase 

the growth of algae, which bloom four times faster than 

on Indo-Pacific reefs. Algae compete with corals, which 

naturally grow slowly and struggle to outcompete these 

large blooms. On top of that, the Indo-Pacific is home to 

many more species of coral and fish, including vital herbivores 

like parrotfish which graze on algae and prevent 

it from taking over and smothering reefs. 

Corals thrive in very specific living conditions; water 

that gets too hot or too cold, any change in nutrients or 

salinity or exposure to too many or too few UV rays all 

can cause a coral to be “stressed.” Once stressed, the 

microalgae living inside of coral polyps called zooxanthellae 

are expelled, stripping the coral of its color and 

main energy source. This is the phenomenon described 

as coral bleaching. Once bleached, a coral is not dead. If 

the unsuitable conditions that caused the coral to stress 

return to normal in a reasonable amount of time, the 

coral can regain its zooxanthellae and return to a healthy, 

unstressed state. If the condition remains imperfect, and 

does not improve, in a matter of weeks the coral will start 

to die, being unable to capture enough food for itself 

without its photosynthetic counterpart, zooxanthellae. 

Despite the unfortunate state of Caribbean reefs as a 

whole, the TCI reefs have somehow managed to remain 

in a comparatively healthy state. While various bleaching 

epidemics have left their impact, TCI reefs show much 

less bleaching than those in Florida or other parts of the 

Caribbean. This could in part be due to the deeper nature 

of these reefs, where the UV light reaching the corals is 

less harsh. 

There is also much less human impact in the TCI than 

elsewhere in the Caribbean. In the Caribbean, 22 countries 

have larger populations than the TCI, which has just 

over 36,000 residents as of 2019. South Florida, including 

the counties of Miami-Dade and Monroe, where much 

reef degradation has been seen, is home to over 2 million 

people, so there is significantly less routine exposure to 

human impacts at TCI reefs. 

Water temperature surrounding the TCI remains quite 

stable throughout the year. At its coldest, the water is 

about 26ºC (79º F) and at its hottest, it is 29ºC (84ºF). 

Stony Coral Tissue Loss Disease makes its way across a colony of 

great star coral (Montastrea cavernosa). 

This is very different from the waters of South Florida, 

in which the temperature fluctuates throughout the year 

from 21ºC (69ºF) to 31ºC (87ºF). 

The School for Field Studies Center for Marine 

Resource Studies (SFS CMRS) on South Caicos has been 

diving and conducting research on the surrounding reefs 

for the past 30 years. Studies have varied over the years 

but largely revolve around the topic of reef health and 

monitoring. Now in 2019, for the first time in 30 years, 

researchers at SFS have noticed a change in the reefs they 

know so well. Suddenly, at multiple sites, corals were 

dying; sometimes just one area on an individual coral and 

other times entire coral heads. It was noticed immediately 

that these corals weren’t just bleached, they no longer 

showed the fuzzy outline indicating polyps still living 

within the coral and only the white skeleton remained. 

It was quickly determined that a disease of some sort 

must be causing this sudden death of previously healthy 

corals. Coral diseases have been studied for years, and 

in many cases, researchers have been able to identify the 

causes, transmission factors, and solutions to such dis- 



eases. Whatever was damaging the reefs of South Caicos 

however, didn’t look or behave like any well-known coral 

diseases. Over the past few months, the researchers at 

SFS had been hearing about a new disease that is causing 

major problems on the Florida Reef Tract, and elsewhere 

in the Caribbean. 

First reported in Florida in 2014, Stony Coral Tissue 

Loss Disease (SCTLD) is killing corals faster and across 

more species than any other coral diseases known. Since 

2014, it has traveled from northern Miami–Dade County 

all the way down the Florida Keys and into the Caribbean 

in places like Jamaica, St. Maarten, and now the TCI. The 

method by which the disease is transmitted from coral to 

coral is unknown, making it extremely difficult to study 

or replicate so that methods of putting a stop to it can be 

tested. Over half of the stony coral species found on the 

Florida Reef Tract are affected by SCTLD, though there 

are many factors that influence the likelihood that a coral 

will contract the disease (such as the location of the 

coral and time of the year.) Many researchers throughout 

Florida and the Caribbean are actively trying to pinpoint 

the indicators of the disease and the rate at which it progresses, 

though it has proven to be a difficult feat as 

these attributes may vary by species affected. 

SFS CMRS students are collecting 

data on coral bleaching and Stony 

Coral Tissue Loss Disease near South 

Caicos. 

In what is widely being 

considered an epidemic, the 

reefs that are already deteriorating 

now are forced to 

face this new and deadly disease. 

One quality that makes 

SCTLD so lethal is that it 

functions from the inside 

of the coral to the outside. 

Typical first signs of SCTLD 

on a coral are bands of discoloration 

that gradually 

begin to turn white and 

move across a colony, often 

in a circular pattern radiating 

out or a line moving 

from one side to the other. 

By the time any signs show 

up on the outside of a coral 

though, the disease has 

already infected the colony 

and begun to do its damage on the inside. Due to the 

necrotic nature of the disease, as the coral polyps die, 

the tissue begins to deteriorate rapidly and slide off the 

colony. Once all living tissue is gone, the coral is left with 

only the skeleton, which will eventually be overgrown by 

algae. 

Since the discovery of the disease off of South Caicos, 

SFS researchers and students have worked together to 

gather data on affected corals. Knowing the local reefs 

gives researchers a better perspective as to how much of 

the reef is being affected. Identifying differences between 

SCTLD in the TCI and elsewhere can help to narrow down 

characteristics of the disease. Any similarities or differences 

in affected species, location, or depth may be 

useful in identifying the pathogen or transmission vectors 

of the disease. 

The good news for TCI reefs comes back to their 

impressive resilience in the face of the devastation that 

the rest of the Caribbean is facing. Compared to conditions 

in Florida, SCTLD here has not even made a dent 

in our reefs. The fact alone that it took a full five years 

from the original outbreak to reach TCI reefs has spared 

us from facing the same damage. The coral heads here 

that have contracted the disease are isolated from one 

38 www.timespub.tc


another, often with one or more other corals in between 

that remain unaffected. This is largely in contrast to 

Florida’s reefs, where many groups of coral heads can 

be seen having died from the disease, though this does 

not necessarily indicate that all corals within a group 

contracted the disease one right after the other in those 

cases. 

The work that researchers have been doing in Florida 

since the first outbreak will be incredibly useful in the 

fight against SCTLD here, in that because of their work 

we essentially have a head start on the disease and know 

more about it than we would if this was a nameless, 

unheard of condition. As of now, SFS is the only team in 

the TCI working to gather data on SCTLD, but as word gets 

out and more people learn about the possible destruction 

this is going to cause our reefs, we are optimistic that 

other capable hands will join the fight. Research will not 

only help us to minimize the effect of SCTLD on our pristine 

reefs, but it can also empower us to prevent reefs 

elsewhere in the world from having to experience the 

alarming loss seen throughout the Caribbean. a 

Sources 

ARC Centre of Excellence in Coral Reef Studies. “Coral 

reefs in the Indo-Pacific Ocean naturally tougher than 

Caribbean reefs.” ScienceDaily, 12 July 2012. 

Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary. (2018). Florida 

Reef Tract Coral Disease Outbreak: Disease. National 

Marine Sanctuaries, NOAA. 

Kinane, S. (2019) Florida’s devastating coral disease has 

spread to the Caribbean: scientist. 88.5WMNF Florida 

Public Radio. 

Riggs, B. (2006) Coral Bleaching: Bad news and (a little) 

good news for Turks & Caicos Reefs. Times of the Islands. 

The Museum Turks and Caicos (2019) “The Living Reef.” 

Turks and Caicos Islands, British West Indies. 

Turks and Caicos Reef Fund (2019) “Coral Bleaching.” 

Turks and Caicos Islands, British West Indies. 

Weinberg, E. (2018) Scientists work together to solve a 

coral disease mystery in the Florida Keys National Marine 

Sanctuary. National Ocean Service, NOAA, Department of 

Commerce. 

Sea turtle 

I am sea turtle. 

I am green turtle. I swim far and wide. 

Queen in my blue wilderness. 

Below the sea, dwelled a beautiful green turtle 

(she loved to swim around). 

She danced with happiness in her heart 

she danced as the sound of the sea rang in her ears. 

In the morning, she wandered far and wide: in a 

blink of an eye, she could hear all types of honking. 

She swam and swam; she stopped and ate a plastic 

bag thinking of jellyfish and then–BOOM–the cruise 

ship stopped! And an anchor fell as another turtle 

passed by. Both turtles dropped down in despair! 

Their fins cut and bruised: the turtles cried with 

anxiety. Then they heard a big–SPLASH–two girls 

swam to the turtles with speed. The girls stopped 

with silence They heard a noise–BOOM–and another 

one–BOOM–then a–SPLASH. Two strong men came 

to help all. All of them together lifted the anchor 

and set it somewhere else. They lifted the anchor 

slowly and moved it away from the turtles. 

Two men lifted the turtles out to the shore… 

A few days later, the turtles went into a sanctuary… 

they found 56 bags of plastic in them. 

We are sea turtles no more. 

We are green turtles no more. 

We can no longer swim far and wide, 

queens of our beautiful blue wilderness. 

STOP THIS PLASTIC POLLUTION BEFORE WE LOSE 

ALL OF OUR BEAUTIFUL TURTLES!! 

This poem was written by Ziahon Taylor, 

a Grade 4 student from the International School of 

the Turks & Caicos Islands. 

She wrote the poem following the school’s “Zero 

Waste Week” and subsequent DECR visit. 


ISTOCKPHOTO.COM

feature 

ALAMY.COM 

Opposite page: It’s hard to believe that humpback whales, among the largest creatures on the planet, were hunted almost to extinction less 

than 60 years ago. Above: This Anton Otto Fischer painting depicts the almost-unimaginable work of harpooning a whale. 

The Hunt for Whales 

From harpooning leviathans to holding them dear. 

By Ben Stubenberg 

“I need everyone’s eyes on the water,” Captain Kell Talbot earnestly tells the guests on the Deep Blue 

Charters whale watching boat three miles east of Salt Cay. “The front of the boat is twelve o’clock, the 

back six o’clock. When you see a whale surface, call out your sighting on the clock so we can track it.” All 

hands on deck peer out in silence over the ripples of a pale blue sea glistening in the morning sun—straining 

to catch the first glimpse of the giant cetaceans we know are out there, just below the surface, gliding 

over the shallow banks. The palpable thrill of anticipation bonds perfect strangers in a singular quest. 

“Look! There! Four o’clock,” a watcher cries out. “Oh my God!” All heads turn to see a dark gray arching 

back break the surface followed by a spray of vapor and squeals and hollers of jaw-dropping awe. Captain 

Kell cuts the engine, letting the boat drift. Suddenly, the 50 foot (15 meter) long humpback, nearly twice 

the size of the boat, majestically rockets straight up, almost completely out of the water. Huge flippers 

open wide as if to say, “Hello, I see you,” before the massive body splashes down spectacularly before us. 


That these magnificent creatures, the largest our 

planet has ever seen, were hunted almost to extinction 

less than 60 years ago hardly seems possible. The consuming 

quest for quick riches from slaughtered whales 

to fuel the demand for lamp oil, buggy whips, and cheap 

meat for an industrializing world might well have denied 

us that shared moment of intense common humanity on 

the sea—as well as all future generations. 

And that should give us pause for what our progeny 

may say about us 60 years from now. For even today, notwithstanding 

protections, whales face a future as uncertain 

and perilous as they did when whalers relentlessly pursued 

them across every ocean. In a hopeful twist of fate, however, 

the pristine waters surrounding the Turks & Caicos 

Islands, that once saw its share of whale hunting, could be 

a respite from modern perils, a sanctuary where whales 

thrive and perhaps befriend us. 

Early whalers 

Humans have hunted whales since prehistoric times, 

but the story of commercial whaling began in the early 

1700s, principally out of the New England fishing town of 

Nantucket. Here, ships under the power of wind and sails 

fanned out into the eastern seaboard of North America for 

what was at first easy pickings. Humpbacks, sperm whales, 

and right whales abounded and their numbers seemed limitless. 

Hardy sailors perched in crow’s nests atop masts 

100 feet (30 meters) above the deck scanned the sea for 

the same telltale signs as tourists on whale tours do today. 

When the bellowing cry of “There she blows” rang 

out at the sighting of a whale, the crew below frantically 

lowered open whale boats over the side and rowed hard, 

guided by pointing arms from the crow’s nest. Crouched 

at the prow, the strongest and most agile man of the lot 

readied his harpoons, essentially modified wooden spears, 

about 6 feet (2 meters) long, with one or two metal barbs 

near the tip. A bucket held a long coiled rope fastened 

tightly to the harpoon shaft, the other end wrapped around 

a wooden post built into the boat. The harpooneer, as he 

was called, stood and braced himself as the boat closed 

in on the prize. The captain signaled for the crew to stop 

rowing and use their oars to paddle quietly. 

Then, just feet from the giant leviathan and when 

seconds counted, the harpooneer lifted his weapon high 

above his head and hurled it as straight and deep and true 

as he could into the thick blubber of the whale’s back so 

the barbs held fast. If he was quick and lucky, he might get 

off a second throw. As the wounded whale bolted from the 

boat using powerful thrusts from its tail, the rope rushed 

out, so fast the post smoked from the friction. Sometimes 

the rope entangled the harpooneer, severing his leg or 

arm or dragging him overboard. Fighting for its own life, 

the whale would try to dive down, swiftly towing the boat 

toward the horizon up to 23 mph (37 kph) in what became 

known as a Nantucket Sleigh Ride. Thrilling as it was terrifying, 

the crew hung on, hoping the out-of-control boat 

would not be pulled under. The struggle might go on for 

30 minutes or more until the whale, exhausted and near 

Sometimes whales fight back. There have been at least half a dozen recorded incidents of cetaceans using their massive heads (mainly sperm 

whales) to ram whaling ships in apparent acts of fury. 

42 www.timespub.tc

death, surfaced for one last breath of air. In the bloodsoaked 

sea, the whale boat would again pull close, so the 

captain or first mate could try to finish off the weakened 

whale by thrusting a trident-tipped lance into its belly. 

At that point, the crew had to act quickly to bring the 

whale back to the mother ship, as whales sink quickly after 

being killed. Then begin the arduous and equally dangerous 

task of flensing (butchering) and boiling the blubber 

for oil. The decks, slick with blood, caused many a whaler 

to slip and fall overboard into a frenzy of feeding sharks 

below. 

By the mid-1700s, New England whaling ships had 

reduced the whale populations off their shores, forcing 

the whalers to expand their searches further south to 

the Caribbean and off the coast of Brazil. As the whales 

became scarce there too, whalers sailed around the Horn, 

entering the vast Pacific where ships could be away from 

home port for years. Typically, a successful whale ship 

would catch between 25 and 50 whales. For all the danger 

the crew faced—almost every hunt produced some injury 

or death—the rewards depended entirely on the favorable 

outcome of the voyage, and few got rich. The pay for sailors 

was only marginally better than crewing on vessels 

carrying cargo. Still, the able-bodied signed up in droves 

for the intoxicating adventure and a chance to make a bit 

more money. 

At whale hunting’s peak (1820–1850), whalers numbered 

8,000 and killed around 10,000 whales a year. In 

the second half of the 19th century, the whaling industry 

began to decline as new and less expensive petroleum 

products became available. Paradoxically, from 1900– 

1999, 2.9 million whales were killed, according to Scientific 

American—four times more than were killed in the previous 

400 years. Larger whale ships and the perfection of the 

explosively charged harpoon that could be mounted and 

fired from the ship deck—credited to Norwegian inventor 

Svend Foyn—allowed for many more whales to be taken, 

though mainly for meat. 

Whale attacks 

Sometimes the whales fought back. The most famous fictional 

account, of course, is the story of the great white 

whale Moby Dick by Hermann Melville. He based his epic 

treasure of American literature on the true story of the 

attack on the Nantucket whaling ship Essex in November 

1820 in the South Pacific, more than 1,000 miles off the 

coast of Peru. (The story has since made into a major 

motion picture, “In the Heart of the Sea”, directed by 

Ron Howard.) In fact, there have been at least six other 

recorded incidents of cetaceans using their massive heads 

(mainly sperm whales) to ram whaling ships in apparent 

acts of fury: The Pusie Hall in 1835, the Lydia and the 

Two Generals in 1836, the Pocahontas in 1850, the Ann 

Alexander in 1851, and the Kathleen in 1902. All these 

wooden ships came out of New England ports, and all but 

the Pusie and the Pocahontas sank. 

In the case of the Essex, first mate Owen Chase spotted 

a huge sperm whale lying quietly in the distance, the 

head facing the ship. After two or three spouts, the colossal 

animal made straight for the Essex, ramming its head 

into the side of the ship, “with an appalling and tremendous 

jar, as nearly threw all of us on our faces.” The whale 

passed under the ship and then surfaced, allowing the first 

mate to see him “smite his jaws together, as if distracted 

with rage and fury,” and then disappeared. Shortly thereafter, 

a crew member cried out, “Here he is making for us 

again.” Head half out of the water, the whale bore down 

once more on the ship, this time striking the bow. Water 

rushed in through the busted planks and the Essex began 

sinking, so fast that Chase and the crew barely had enough 

time to escape in their whale boat. 

The Essex captain, George Pollard, who had been out 

with another whale boat pursuing and harpooning whales, 

returned stunned to see his ship floundering before disappearing 

under the waves. Bobbing on the sea in open 

20 foot boats with hardly any food or water, the whalers 

contemplated what to do next. The captain, just 28 years 

old, wanted to head south to the nearest land in Marquesa 

Islands and Tahiti, but Chase and others talked him out 

of it because they believed cannibals lived there. So they 

steered the longer way east to South America, perhaps 

the most ironic decision in maritime history. In the weeks 

at sea that followed, the crew quickly ran out of what few 

provisions they had and began eating anyone who died, 

becoming cannibals themselves. On Pollard’s boat, when 

no one had died for a few days, they drew lots of who 

would be killed and eaten. Only eight of the original twenty 

survived the harrowing ordeal at sea, including Pollard and 

Chase, to tell their stories. 

Notably, the gigantic bull sperm whale that rammed 

the Essex had not, in fact, been harpooned himself, but 

may have reacted to seeing and hearing members of his 

pod being attacked. While whales are social creatures and 

normally not aggressive, they can be when challenged or 

feel the whale family is threatened. 

The attack on the Ann Alexander took place in the 

same area as the Essex 31 years later on August 20, 1851 

(the same year Melville’s book was published) with its own 


astounding scenario. The ship had launched two whale 

boats, one of which harpooned a sperm whale. After a 

Nantucket Sleigh Ride, the whale circled back, and with its 

huge jaws snapped the whale boat in half, throwing all six 

whalers in the water. A second whale boat nearby rescued 

them. Meanwhile, a third boat was launched from the Ann 

Alexander and headed out to assist. But rather than return 

to the ship, the remaining two boats continued to chase 

and harpoon the angry whale. Once more, the whale circled 

back and crushed the third boat with its jaws, tossing 

the whole crew in the water. Again, they were rescued by 

the remaining whale boat, now quite crowded, and finally 

returned to the ship. 

Rather than call it a day, the crew continued to harpoon 

the whale from the ship when it swam close, managing to 

lodge a harpoon in its head. The whale disappeared below 

the surface, but then surfaced to smash its head into the 

hull below the waterline, creating a gaping hole. As water 

rushed in, the crew re-launched the one remaining whale 

boat, barely getting away, but now even more vulnerable 

on the open sea with a raging whale. The whale swam off, 

however, and two days later another whaling ship spotted 

and rescued the whalers. 

TCI whale hunts 

The first recorded Turks & Caicos Islands whale catch 

took place on February 4, 1846 off Grand Turk amid great 

rejoicing of the people, according to the Handbook of the 

Turks and Caicos Islands by J. Henry Pusey, published in 

1897. Pusey writes: 

“This gave rise to well-organized whale-fishing companies 

at Grand Turk and Salt Cay. Whales were thus 

captured every year, a single whale of ordinary size 

being sufficient for the entire population to share in 

the delicacy of its flesh. Large quantities of train (or 

common) oil were obtained from this most remarkable 

of the cetaceous order of animals.” 

Rather than big whaling ships, the Grand Turk 

Whaling Company, succeeded later by the Salt Cay Whaling 

Company, relied largely on native Turks & Caicos Islanders 

using rowboats launched from shore. The whaling company 

even placed an ad in the Turks Islands Gazette 

and Commercial Reporter on January 3, 1849 calling 

for “Headers, Steersmen (harpooneers) and Oarsmen for 

the Whale Company’s boats for the approaching season. 

Those who have pratice (sic) would be preferred.” 

MAT MATLACK 

Taylor Hill on Salt Cay was once a whaling station look-out. The limestone ruins and field walls can still be seen. It is still a good place to 

watch whales pass by during the winter months. 

44 www.timespub.tc

Whalers would often harpoon a calf and keep it alive to attract the mother and other whales, so they too could be harpooned. 

KATHARINE HART–DEEP BLUE CHARTERS, GRAND TURK 

For decades, the local population directly benefited 

from whales caught and killed that could supplement their 

meager diets, likely alleviating hunger in view of the poverty 

at the time. On February 11, 1871, the Royal Standard 

carried a news article telling of a whale capture and what it 

meant to the Islands: 

“With much pleasure we give place to the Report, 

from a correspondent on Salt Cay of the capture of a 

whale by the boats of that place. We wish the financial 

condition of the colony was more flourishing, so 

that a bounty may be given for each whale killed and 

brought to shore, as no one, but those who have witnessed 

it, knows what a godsend the flesh of a whale 

is to a poor community.” 

The article not only effusively commends the harpooneer 

as Mr. John Vose Lightbourn, but goes on to 

articulate the pressing need for food. 

“What a gift this mass of meat is to the laboring portion 

of and the poor and destitute of our Island, who 

in consequent of the scarcity and high prices of provisions 

have for a long time been deprived of a meal, 

and are at present able to put by a good supply of 

strong and wholesome food.” 

Giving us a glimpse into the tenor of the times, Mr. 

Pusey recounts the harpooning of a whale calf off Grand 

Turk on April 17, 1872. 

“The old mother-whale kept so closely during the capture 

to her wounded young, that with proper materials 

(perhaps indicating need for an additional harpoon) 

and cautious management, she also would have been 

caught.” 

Whalers often harpooned a calf and kept it alive to 

attract the mother and other whales, so they too could 

be harpooned. At this late date in the season, most of 

the family of humpbacks had probably begun the 1,500 

mile (2,400 kilometer) journey north back to the feeding 

waters off Newfoundland and Greenland, leaving the 

mother and calf alone. Perhaps the mother lingered just a 

few more weeks so they could get stronger before making 

the strenuous trek. Yet his matter-of-fact observation, 

important enough to include on the now-crumbling, yellowed 

pages of Pusey’s book, echoes across the ages from 

their time to ours. And 147 years later, we feel the torment 

of that mother-whale desperately staying with her mortally 

wounded calf to the end. 

Along with food, the local whaling companies 

extracted whale oil that could be barreled and sold. Pusey 

tells us that in the month of February 1883, a whale was 

caught at Salt Cay that produced 900 gallons of oil. He 

also notes that in the same year the head of a sperm whale 

was found at Bambarra (Middle Caicos), yielding “several 

hundred gallons of sperm oil.” 

The Salt Cay Whaling Company closed in 1888, but 

whaling in TCI apparently did not stop, and may possibly 

have continued as late as 1920. According to Salt Cay 


native and boat captain Oscar Talbot, based on stories he 

had heard from his father and grandfather, “Local Turks 

Islanders regularly set out on their own to hunt whales 

to supply Salt Cay and Grand Turk with meat, which was 

considered the delicacy of the day.” Tim Dunn, another Salt 

Cay native and whale expert, noted that Taylor Hill, the 

highest point in Salt Cay at 74 feet (23 meters), functioned 

as a look-out for spotting whales. 

Once harpooned, Mr. Talbot said, “The whale would 

run for miles and miles pulling the boat along,” thus experiencing 

a Nantucket Sleigh Ride in TCI style. Mr. Talbot 

recalled hearing how one whaler got his foot cut off after 

becoming entangled in the outgoing rope, leaving no 

doubt that TCI whalers faced the same dangers as other 

whalers back in the day. 

Typically, the whales would be hauled to “Whale 

Island,” a spit of land barely above sea level about 200 

feet (70 meters) from the shore of Salt Cay’s northeast 

windward side. There, the whalers cut up and dispersed 

meat to the people who would preserve it by first soaking 

it in salt water and then leaving it out to dry—necessary in 

the absence of refrigeration. “In the late 1800s,” Mr. Dunn 

said, “Salt Cay had a population of almost 1,000 people 

and imported nearly all of its food. So hauling in a massive 

whale could feed everyone for months.” One can easily 

imagine a festive scene of the whole island gathering to 

watch the spectacle and anticipating the meal they would 

soon enjoy. Only ruins remain of a stone house where this 

took place, leaving just enough to step back to the days 

when Salt Cay celebrated its intrepid whalers. 

Perhaps the most intriguing connection to whales, 

however, is the story of Salt Cay islanders dipping their 

infant children in the blood of a whale in the belief that 

the child would be infused with the strength of the whale. 

The ritual was first reported in the 2001/2002 Winter issue 

of Times of the Islands, in the story, “Whale Watching” by 

Marsha Pardee Woodring, and sourced to long time Salt 

Cay resident and TCI historian Josiah Marvel. 

While TCI whaling has long gone, the wonderment for 

whales never ceased, and neither did the encounters. Mr. 

Talbot recalled some 40 years ago when he captained a 

sloop from Grand Turk to Salt Cay. Along the way, a whale 

unexpectedly headed straight for the boat in a scene right 

out of Moby Dick and the Essex. Seeing the aggressive 

approach, Mr. Talbot managed to tack the boat away from 

the on-coming whale, thereby minimizing the impact. He 

then sailed toward a shallow reef where the whale could 

not follow, and got away unscathed. 

Schoolchildren on Grand Turk and Salt Cay have grown 

up with the lore of the whales. When the whales breach 

just offshore—especially from Salt Cay where the school 

is just 300 feet (90 meters) from the beach—teachers let 

students out to witness this gift of nature bequeathed to 

them, a childhood memory of astonishment remembered 

well into adulthood. 

Whaling today 

Islands of the Eastern Caribbean—Dominica, St. Lucia, St. 

Vincent and the Grenadines, and Grenada—have all hunted 

whales at some time. Of these, the small island of Bequia, 

the northernmost island of the Grenadines, held on tightest 

to the tradition—from 1875 right up to the present. 

For most of the second half of the 20th century, whaler 

Athneal Ollivierre dominated the hunt, plunging hand harpoons 

into the whales just like they did in the 1800s. To 

help guide him, Islanders would run along a ridge flashing 

mirrors to signal the direction the whale was swimming. As 

once happened in Grand Turk and Salt Cay, the captured 

whale is even today brought to the shore and divided up 

among the community to great rejoicing. 

Aboriginal peoples in Greenland, Siberia, and Alaska 

also hunt whales throwing hand-held harpoons as their 

ancestors did one or two thousand years ago, though 

now most use grenades on the harpoons to hasten the 

death. But these small whaling communities take very few 

whales and hardly threaten the population. Hence, the 

International Whaling Commission’s (IWC) allowance for 

aboriginal whalers, that includes, interestingly, the whalers 

of Bequia (though not without skeptics questioning how 

“aboriginal” has been applied). 

Far more important for the IWC is the protection of 

whales from larger scale whaling. Established in 1946, the 

IWC develops policies and agreements for whale conservation, 

but leaves for individual countries to adopt and 

enforce them, such as the US through the Endangered 

Species Act. Those efforts, however, are challenged and 

undercut by Japan, Norway, and Iceland who claim sustainable 

whaling as a cultural heritage. Recently, these 

nations increased the catch of minke whales once the IWC 

took them off the endangered list. Japan, in particular, has 

succeeded in getting an IWC exception to kill whales for 

“scientific” research and sell the meat for consumption. 

To bolster its position, Japan has provided significant 

development aid to some Eastern Caribbean countries. The 

unstated quid-pro-quo? Become IWC members and vote 

in favor of Japanese government initiatives to allow limited 

whaling. For hard-pressed Caribbean island nations, 

including St. Vincent and the Grenadines, the choice 

46 www.timespub.tc

etween whales and a people sinking further into poverty 

becomes evident. 

The sentiment to protect whales and the proclivity 

to kill them clashed openly in 2017, pitting well-heeled 

First World people against the hunters. After docking in 

St. Vincent, passengers from a Thompson Cruises ship 

signed up for a whale watching excursion off the coast. To 

their initial delight, they came across a pod of four orcas 

(also known as killer whales). As the whale watching boat 

approached, a fishing boat arrived and began harpooning 

and killing two of the whales in front of the horrified tourists 

who, along with their captain, screamed for them to 

stop, but to no avail. 

Although the incident may put pressure on St. Vincent 

and the Grenadines, local pride and defiance of outsiders 

who try to tell them what to do may well prevail, at least 

for now. Proponents of limited whaling pose a provocative 

question: Why should whales, if not endangered, receive 

more protection from slaughter than other animals butchered 

on an industrial scale with hardly more humaneness? 

More to the point: Why do big brainy, anthropomorphic 

animals get spared, while the less attractive, dumb ones 

that don’t beguile us with wonder end up on our dinner 

plate without a second thought? Is this not cultural bigotry, 

they ask, by nations that once profited mightily from 

whales they hunted to the brink of extinction? 

A place for whales 

The debate over killing whales may soon become moot. 

As chemical pollutants in the ocean such as mercury, PCB 

and DDT “biomagnify” up the food chain to whales, these 

toxins get stored first in the fleshy whale blubber. Then, 

in times of stress when food is scarce, the blubber breaks 

down to provide an energy supply that in turn releases 

the toxins into the rest of the body, causing even greater 

toxic concentrations. When whale cows give birth, a significant 

portion of the toxins are passed on to the calf that 

can severely impact growth and development. According 

to OceanCare, an international organization dedicated to 

protecting marine wildlife, the mercury, PCB, and DDT levels 

exceed thresholds of safe consumption up to 5,000 

times, making whale meat unsuitable for humans. Hunting 

whales for food, thus, becomes pointless. 

Meanwhile, other elements of the modern world 

threaten whale populations globally. Drift nets entangle 

and kill whales along with other forms of marine life. 

Large ship engines disorient whales, whose hearing is their 

primary way of navigating the seas and communicating 

with other whales, thus interfering with their migration 

patterns. More ships on the high seas moving at greater 

speeds means more collisions that kill and maim whales 

in their path. Sonar testing by the US and other navies 

to improve detection of enemy submarines further exacerbates 

noise pollution with bursts up to 235 decibels 

that can cause whales to beach themselves. The US Navy 

has recently placed restrictions on time and place to test 

anti-submarine sonar, and Navy warships now broadcast 

messages to commercial ships with locations of whale 

sightings to reduce collisions. This reduces the killing but 

doesn’t stop it. 

There is some good news amidst the despair. 

Humpback whales appear to be recovering in the Turks & 

Caicos Islands. The slight increase in numbers of humpbacks 

suggests that TCI continues to be a sought-after and 

viable habitat where whales can return year after year to 

calve and mate during the winter months. 

Neither the humpback recovery nor TCI as a “destination” 

for these whales can be taken for granted, however. 

More cruise ship passengers and other tourists anxious 

for the “chance of a lifetime” to see and perhaps swim 

with these leviathans has resulted in a corresponding 

jump in whale watching boaters without proper training to 

approach whales. Too many boats up close put enormous 

stress on the humpbacks, particularly mother whales who 

have just given birth and need rest to conserve energy for 

the trek north. 

The time has come for TCI to formally create a National 

Whale Sanctuary that protects and nurtures these astonishing 

humpbacks. Drawing on the experience of responsible 

whale watching operators and marine biologists, a sanctuary 

can become an unspoiled space where humans and 

cetaceans meet ever so gently. Not incidentally, limited, 

upscale whale tourism of this kind also produces substantial 

revenue. Few places on the planet can match TCI for 

the experience of being with whales who fill us with reverence 

and awe, as happened on Captain Kell’s boat, but 

only if we hold dear this fragile treasure that frequents our 

waters. a 

Ben Stubenberg (ben@caicunaniki.com.) is a contributing 

writer to Times of the Islands with a passion for TCI history. 

An avid ocean man, he is the co-founder of the sports 

and adventure company Caicu Naniki and the annual 

Turks & Caicos “Race for the Conch” Eco-SeaSwim. 

Special thanks to the Turks & Caicos National Museum 

Foundation, Oscar Talbot, and Tim Dunn for providing 

essential materials for this article. 


feature 

Opposite page: Humpback tails, or flukes, are a way to identify specific whales. Each tail is different from any other, like fingerprints. 

Above: It is incredible to see an adult humpback breaching, and when you hear the thunderous boom it makes, you will never forget the sound. 

Gentle Giants 

Spending a season with the humpback whales. 

Story & Photos By Kelly Currington 

The stillness of the water is broken and silence gives way to the sound of a low, powerful groan as air 

is being expelled from the lungs of a creature at an approximate speed of 200 mph . . . and the spell is 

cast. There are few things in this world that truly humble you, make you realize you are just a tiny part 

of the greater picture. Being in the presence of a creature weighing up to 40 tons and 40 feet in length 

reminds you of this and changes your heart and soul. 


Meeting a humpback whale face-to-face, especially a calf, is a moment that will leave a permanent mark on your soul. 

Imagine slipping quietly over the side of the tender 

into the sea, putting your face in the water and seeing the 

silhouette of a massive creature below you. The silhouette 

slowly gets more defined as the animal inches towards 

the surface for a breath. Your heart stops beating, your 

breathing is paused, the only sound you can hear is your 

own heart pounding, and every ounce of you is focused 

on the movement—a moment that will leave a permanent 

mark on your soul. And just when you think that moment 

can’t get more impressionable, her calf comes into focus. 

There are really no words that can describe the feelings 

and emotions of that second in time. 

When one of these mammoths of the sea makes eye 

contact, you feel the awareness and intelligence within 

them. You feel their curiosity about you, and their gentleness 

in your presence. You know instantly that they could 

harm you if they chose to, but feel no fear that they will. 

Instead, you are filled with a sense of peace. 

These magnificent animals are North Atlantic 

humpback whales and they migrate annually from the 

northeastern United States and Norway, usually starting 

around January, down the eastern coast, through the 

Bahamas and around the Turks & Caicos Islands, settling 

in the Silver Bank, Navidad Bank, and Samana Bay 

off of the Dominican Republic. The migration’s purpose 

is to mate or give birth depending on the previous season. 

They mate one year and give birth the next, and the 

return migration is usually complete by the end of April. 

They come to these whale sanctuaries to mate and 

give birth because there are no predators. They are safe 

in these shallow banks to teach their calves how to be 

whales and to build their strength for the long migration 

back to their feeding grounds up north. 

Humpback whales get their name from the distinct 

“hump” in their back. North Atlantic humpbacks are distinguishable 

from other humpbacks because the topside 

of their pectoral fins is white, where others are black.This 

white is very visible in the water because it reflects as a 

brilliant aquamarine. This is what made it easy for whalers 

to hunt them. The space between those two aquamarine 

fins was called “the hunter’s mark”—if they aimed at that 

spot it was almost always a kill. Thankfully these days, 

it’s simply a beautiful characteristic of these creatures 

that whale watchers and scientists get to experience. 

50 www.timespub.tc

Grand Slam Times Winter 2018_Layout 1 11/14/18 8:36 PM Page 1 

Humpbacks have the longest pectoral fins of any 

whale, reaching up to one-third of the length of their 

body. Humpback tails, or flukes, are also a way to identify 

specific whales. Each tail is different from any other, 

like fingerprints. Where a humpback is white, it will scar 

black, and where they are black, it will scar white, making 

each one unique. Another interesting fact is that each 

type of whale creates a specific blow, the action of exhaling 

at the surface. Very fittingly, the humpback’s blow is 

in the shape of a heart created by their split “nostrils.” As 

the exhalation pushes air, water, and oily mucus (snot) 

into the sunlight, it creates a rainbow in the mist . . . or 

“rainblow.” 

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This close-up of the blowhole shows the whale’s split “nostrils.” 

It is incredible to see an adult humpback pec slapping, tail 

slapping, and breaching, and when you hear the thunderous 

boom it makes, you will never forget the sound. They 

are teaching their young to be whales—these skills will 

strengthen them and instill the communication related to 

each one of these actions. When the calves are first learning 

they are clumsy and awkward, but when they finally 

figure it out they will repeat the action over and over and 

over again like excited kids who are showing off! So fun 

to witness. 

The sacrifices the females make to endure this 

journey are tremendous. Once they reach the sanctuaries, 

they don’t eat for months because there is no food 

source for them. This causes them to lose up to a third 

of their body weight, all while feeding their calves about 

150 gallons of fat-rich milk a day. They are trying to give 

their calves the absolute best chance of survival during 

their return migration, where they will encounter many 

threats—the biggest threat being orcas. Orcas hunt baby 

humpbacks and kill them solely to eat their tongues. The 

mothers know their calves will have to be strong and have 

endurance to survive this journey. Other threats they may 

encounter are being struck by ships, entanglement in 


This humpback whale calf is likely learning to breach under its mother’s watchful eye. 

nets and debris, ingesting plastic, and starving if something 

happens to their mother. 

I was privileged to have spent two seasons in the 

Silver Bank, guiding and filming these gentle giants, and 

my heart and soul were deeply affected. The harsh reality 

is that only about 50% of calves survive the migration 

back. For those of us who get to know these whales on a 

very personal level, this is a sad truth. 

During their passage around the Turks & Caicos 

Islands the largest numbers come close to Salt Cay, where 

you can see them daily from whale watching boats and 

from shore, where they are visible breaching. You may 

also be lucky enough to have topside encounters and 

(possibly) in-water encounters on dives off any of the 

islands and cays there. 

Even if you don’t see them, you will definitely hear 

their song underwater. It is a beautiful sound that resonates 

through your entire body, you feel it in every organ. 

There are many speculations as to why the males sing— 

whether it’s to attract a mate, to warn other pursuing 

males, or just because they enjoy it. The song changes 

a little each year and every seven years the song has 

changed completely. Hearing this song envelops your 

senses. It takes over everything at that moment. You 

close your eyes and stop exhaling so you can hear it without 

clutter, then open your eyes and try to visually locate 

the singer, and no other creature you see at that moment 

can thwart your focus on the song. 

Some say that the mythical song of mermaids was the 

song of the humpback and I can see why—it’s mesmeriz- 

ing. I have heard their song many times and I can assure 

you that every time you hear it, it moves you as intensely 

as the first time—it’s beautiful and emotional. 

The calves are playful and curious with humans under 

the watchful eye of their mothers and escorts. They will 

come in close to snorkelers, pivot and spin and make eye 

contact. They are very interested in what these strange 

creatures are in their home. The mothers and escorts 

tend to keep their distance and let the calves explore 

as long as they feel comfortable. The feeling of having 

a 10–15 foot baby approach you, look at you, and connect 

on a level that cannot be explained is incredible. You 

know you are a tiny piece of the puzzle of life and that 

you are experiencing a moment few will ever know. You 

will hold on to this moment for the rest of your life. 

Humpback whales are powerful creatures who can 

completely launch themselves out of the water in what 

is called a “breach.” They can travel massive distances 

using their fluke to thrust them forward at speeds up to 

15 mph. Yet they are so aware of their body placement 

that they can approach you and move their fins with precision 

to not touch you while never changing their body 

position. 

Another display of their control and intelligence is 

what we refer to as “Rowdies” —a group of males pursuing 

a single female. The power and determination of 

these boys are evident in their displays of dominance and 

strength as they challenge each other with massive bouts 

of “bubble streaming.” This is creating a huge bubble 

curtain intended to prevent the other males from being 

52 www.timespub.tc

able to see the female, breaking another male’s breathing 

pattern so he will fall behind to catch his rhythm again, 

and by bumping each other to break stride. 

With all this power, they are also very polite suitors. 

The female always leads the chase, and if or when she 

slows down or stops, all the males stop and hold their 

position until she moves forward again. There is no evidence 

that the males ever try to cause mortal injuries to 

each other, but instead engage in fairly gentlemen-like 

brawling. 

Once a male has been successful in wooing his lady 

of choice, they start a tender and gentle dance we call the 

“Valentine.” This dance is extremely physical and textile. 

The whales use their pectoral fins to touch each other, 

they rub their bodies together and slowly twirl and move 

fluently together, keeping contact as if dancing a slow 

romantic and passionate dance. (This is the equivalent of 

humans holding hands and touching each other in a sort 

of foreplay role before the mating starts.) There is very 

obvious affection and tenderness between these creatures 

and it is an absolute honor to witness. They are in 

every sense of the words, Gentle Giants. 

Each of the hundreds of encounters I’ve had in 

the Silver Bank with these creatures is special and has 

touched me in very intense emotional ways. The one I 

will leave you with is an experience I had on a dive in the 

Turks & Caicos. It is one that I feel with as much emotion, 

power, and intensity today as the day it occurred. 

I was on a dive off the northwest point of 

Providenciales at a site called Eel Garden. We were about 

35–40 minutes into the dive and we had made our way 

back under the boat. The faint sounds of the songs in 

the distance had serenaded us the entire dive. The sound 

comes in and vibrates off the sheer wall and is easy to 

hear. At this point, most divers had already started their 

ascent, so there were only five of us still down. 

We were on top of the edge of the wall when I suddenly 

heard the song much louder and closer. I moved 

out over the depths and floated in a state of neutral 

buoyancy. My vision was suddenly filled with violet blue 

movement as a massive school of creole wrasse and blue 

runners engulfed me. I had dubbed these violet clouds as 

“Purple Rain” because they seem to fall from the surface 

like beautiful raindrops all around you. I looked around at 

the other divers who had joined me in suspension off the 

wall. We all just floated there, weightless and motionless, 

paralyzed by the indescribable beauty we were witnessing. 

Tears filled my eyes as I watched the purple rain and 

listened to the magical sounds of the humpback, and the 

one thought that went through my mind was, “If these are 

my last moments on Earth, I am at complete peace.” 

Even though I could not physically see the singer, I 

could feel him, and his song moved me because I had 

shared the whales’ presence and looked them in the eye 

and understood their plight. This is the magic of the 

humpback whale, gentle giants of the sea. 

There are a number of land-based whale watching 

operators in the Turks & Caicos that will take you out for 

a chance sighting of these mammoths of the sea. Salt 

Cay, Grand Turk, and Providenciales are the main islands 

for whale watching excursions within the country. 

There are only two places in the world where there 

are permits to snorkel with these amazing creatures: 

the Silver Bank and the Kingdom of Tonga in Polynesia. 

In the Silver Bank, you can have these experiences with 

the Turks and Caicos Aggressor II, the Turks and Caicos 

Explorer, and the Belize Aggressor. They have held 

permits for years and are very skilled in sharing these 

magnificent creatures with guests. They are more than 

just “snorkeling with humpback” charters—they are 

educational experiences that will empower you to help 

protect these amazing animals and the oceans they call 

home. a 


exploring the islands 

Opposite page: Salt Cay has the TCI’s best preserved salt industry remains. Every pond has the low stone walls that divided it into salinas, 

where the water was gradually evaporated to produce salt. 

Above: At Dunscombe Point there is good snorkeling offshore and a late 1700s cannon from the wreck of the HMS Endymion. 

Finding the Salt of the Earth 

Discovering the “Old Caribbean” on Salt Cay 

Providenciales is an amazing island. It has truly become one of the top vacation destinations for the 

Americas and the rest of the world. With its world-class beaches, restaurants and other amenities, it 

has everything one could desire in a beach location. But the Turks & Caicos Islands are much more than 

“Provo.” Many want to experience the “old” Caribbean, which is very hard to find on Providenciales but 

the very essence of Salt Cay (www.saltcay.org). 

Story & Photos By Mat Matlack 


The Tradewinds Guest Suites are oceanfront, with amazing snorkeling a short walk from your front door. 

Getting to Salt Cay 

Since hurricanes Irma and Maria in 2017 blasted across 

the Turks & Caicos, the outer islands have spent the 

past 18 months rebuilding. We heard that Salt Cay was 

ready for visitors again and we weren’t disappointed. The 

airport on Salt Cay is limited to smaller planes (a nineseater 

to be exact) due to the number of fire trucks on the 

island. There isn’t direct service from Providenciales on 

interCaribbean Airways, so one flies through Grand Turk. 

It’s a 40-minute trip with some great views of East and 

South Caicos from the air. Once aboard the small Otter 

to Salt Cay, the flight took three minutes! Caicos Express 

Airways may start a direct flight from Providenciales to 

Salt Cay later this summer. 

Accommodations 

We arranged accommodations through Debbie Manos to 

stay at Tradewinds Guest Suites (www.tradewinds.tc). 

Debbie, an expatriate from Tucson, AZ, picked us up at 

the airport and took us on a tour of Balfour Town, the 

village on Salt Cay. She is a wealth of knowledge since she 

began visiting in 1990 and eventually moved to the isle 

in 1996. Debbie was attracted to Salt Cay by the amazing 

SCUBA diving and world-renowned whale watching, but 

kept returning due to the friendly, welcoming nature of 

everyone on the cay. 

Eventually she bought and ran local dive shop Salt 

Cay Divers for 23 years and also opened the Coral Reef 

Bar & Grill where local chef, Enye Guerreir, honed his 

skills (more about the amazing food in a bit). 

Unfortunately, the Coral Reef’s building has been 

damaged by swells created by Nor’easters that made it 

past the harbor wall damaged during the 2017 hurricanes. 

Debbie ran us by one of the three island stores to 

pick up some supplies and then showed us to our home 

for two nights. 

Tradewinds has a lot to offer Salt Cay travelers and 

one of the most important things is location. You are 

oceanfront! Literally, grab your snorkel and fins, walk 10 

yards out your front door and you’re feet away from 

amazing snorkeling. Tradewinds is also walking distance 

to the dive shop, Netty’s Variety Store, and favorite island 

hangout, Oceanaire Bistro. 

Our one-bedroom suite had what we needed to be 

comfortable. These suites are well equipped for divers 

with a large screened porch to store wet equipment, a 

foot bath to clean the sand from your feet and a nice seating 

area inside, along with a comfortable place to lay your 

56 www.timespub.tc

head—until tomorrow morning’s adventure on the water! 

The suites offer a small kitchenette with fridge, toaster 

oven, microwave, toaster, coffeemaker (coffee included!) 

and plenty of dishes. The private bath is where you find 

the sink and large shower with toiletries. The bedroom 

had air conditioning available, but with the island breeze, 

we simply kept our windows open. We also enjoyed Wi-Fi 

to check emails, upload to Instagram and watch an episode 

or two of our favorite sailing vloggers before bed. 

The eats 

We ate most of our meals at Oceanaire Bistro (oceanairebistro.com). 

The restaurant is perfectly located in the 

center of town just a few hundred feet from the dock 

and dive shop. It offers open-air dining overlooking the 

historic salinas and the screened-in dining rooms enjoy 

beautiful ocean breezes too. There is a deck with tables 

under palm trees where you can enjoy a cold drink with 

breakfast, lunch or dinner and a rooftop viewing patio 

that provides views of the ocean and most of the island. 

Remember Chef Enye? This gentleman’s cooking 

skills are only surpassed by his smile. Oceanaire Bistro 

offers some of the best dining we’ve had in the TCI. His 

red snapper with a tomato-based sauce was delightful 

and didn’t stand a chance to last on my plate very long. 

Shannon, my wife, had the cracked conch for our first 

meal and raved about how light and tasty the breading 

was. We, of course, had peas ‘n’ rice with our meals which 

also included a salad. 

Great food is enough for any restaurant. Add good 

service and you’ll have a success. When you also include 

warm and welcoming personalities to the atmosphere— 

you are going to have a winner that lasts the test of time. 

Cracked conch and peas ‘n’ rice—it doesn’t get more Turks & Caicos than this—and the meal at Oceanaire Bistro was cooked to perfection. 


This view looks towards the old Windmills Plantation hotel on North Beach and across the channel towards Grand Turk. 

Owners Bob and Lynn Knobel were regular visitors to 

Salt Cay enjoying the diving by day and the community 

at night. Porter’s Island Thyme was the local restaurant 

and bar where all the divers would gather to exchange 

stories from the day and to plan tomorrow’s adventure. 

In a strange turn of events, Bob and Lynn purchased the 

closed Island Thyme restaurant to be used as their home. 

But, with the urging of Chef Enye and their own realization 

that Salt Cay’s beloved hangout was gone, the couple 

decided to reopen the space as Oceanaire Bistro. We are 

so happy they did. 

The adventures 

We really underestimated all there would be to do on 

the island. We aren’t certified divers (yet) and we didn’t 

have our snorkel gear with us—the water was probably 

too cold this time of year for Shannon, anyhow. So, what 

could we do with 36 hours on this tiny island? 

After our morning coffee, we took our golf cart that 

Debbie had arranged for us all over the island. We had 

several must-see’s on our list and began knocking them 

out at a pace that allowed us to soak in the vibe of everywhere 

we went with intentionality. 

Windmills Plantation hotel 

We’re a sucker for a beautiful beach, so headed to the 

old Windmills Plantation hotel ruins on North Beach. The 

resort was destroyed in 2008 by Hurricane Ike. But, oh 

my, this beach is gorgeous. We could see a cruise ship 

across the channel docked on Grand Turk. (There are 

no signs of cruise ships on Salt Cay and as Debbie likes 

to say, “We have no C’s. No cruise ships, no crime, no 

crowds, no casinos.”) It was sad to see the devastation of 

this hotel. We found some pictures of it online during its 

heyday and it was beautiful. 

Dunscombe Point 

Dunscombe Point offers some great snorkeling right off 

the shore. There are rock formations and a nice area 

to picnic on the beach. Also at this location is a Haitian 

boat that wrecked on the island a few months ago. The 

incident made international news and created quite the 

surprise for local residents when dozens of new faces 

showed up on the island. 

Flamingos 

We understand there are about 36 different types of birds 

on the island. Birdwatching is a favorite thing to do for 

many Salt Cay travelers. The eastern side of the island is 

where the North Creek and South Creek converge into 

shallow waters. We passed by the 1795 Government 

House on our way to find dozens of flamingos at “the 

creek.” We loved watching the waves crash against the 

rocks protecting the inland waterways and viewing the 

beaches literally made of millions of seashells. 

Taylor Hill 

One of the highest points on the island is Taylor Hill. The 

58 www.timespub.tc

oad is a bit rough to get there, but our golf cart handled 

it well. The small hike up the hill was well worth it 

once we saw the views and the ruins were mysterious. It 

appears to have been some kind of plantation with hundreds 

of man-hours spent clearing the land and building 

bordering fences with the rocks. There are about a dozen 

rock mounds that are all the same size. Our inquiry of 

the locals revealed no concrete information on what the 

purpose of the mounds were. Burial mounds? Signal fires? 

Voodoo rituals? Alien communiques? These require more 

investigation. 

Pirate Graves 

There is a very nice home on the island that has built 

its property wall in a strange arch shape. This was done 

in order to go around some existing graves that are 

rumored to be of pirates. No one knows who is, in fact, 

buried there. The three graves are of different sizes and 

could be a man, a woman and possibly a child. You’ll 

pass by these above-ground graves on your way to the 

old lighthouse site on the northwest point. 

Lighthouse 

The lighthouse is long gone and barely any ruins remain 

to mark its previous location. However, there is a newly 

installed wooden post on top of the hill which appears 

to be the highest point on the island. Nearby is a canon 

perched on the edge of the cliff. The ground isn’t very 

stable there and it was recommended not to get too 

close. This remains one of the spots on the island needing 

attention after the hurricane. We understand that the 

primary school and government buildings are earmarked 

to receive government assistance, along with the harbor 

which is vital to the community of Salt Cay. We were also 

told that Beaches Resorts may be providing support to 

get the community gathering space back in shape, but 

this has not been confirmed. 

Salt Cay Days celebration 

We left the morning that begins the annual Salt Cay Days 

celebration. This weekend event brings visitors from 

other islands to enjoy great music, wonderful eats and 

the charm of the old Caribbean. 

Getting home 

Again, our fantastic host Debbie Manos gave us a ride to 

the airport, along with her dogs, including Zorro the potcake. 

Our only regret is not having more time. We wish we 

could have had a few hours of beach time on the North 

The donkeys that roam across Salt Cay are descendants of the animals 

that worked during the salt producing days. 

Beach and snorkeling on the reef. We wanted to stop by 

to meet the lady who still makes salt right from the salinas 

and we hoped to spend time with Tim, a descendent 

of some of the original salt plantation owners. He is currently 

renovating the family home (the White House). The 

entire bottom floor was where the salt was kept and the 

family lived on the upper floor. 

So, break away from the norm for a few days to visit 

Salt Cay. (Unless you are a diver or whale watcher — then, 

you’re going to need at least a week.) Whale watching 

season is mid-January through mid-April and the island 

now boasts two companies providing tours to see the 

humpbacks. Dickenson’s store is well stocked where we 

found bottled water, almond milk and macaroon cookies! 

Bring a sack of carrots for the wild donkeys. They will 

love you for it, but don’t leave them unattended on your 

golf cart. We learned that the hard way! a 

Mat and Shannon Matlack hail from Columbia, Missouri. 

Avid world travelers and vloggers, the couple has focused 

on the Caribbean in recent years. They adopted two potcakes 

and have a love for island dogs plus a passion for 

protecting the ocean’s fragile, yet extremely important, 

ecosystem. Their five-year-old daughter sometimes joins 

them on the adventures. (Visit TheMatlacks.org). 


faces and places 

From left: This budding local DJ from the Edward Gartland Youth Centre is learning the ropes with DJ Munro and Caribbean House Evolution 

founder Johnny Legend. The festival also welcomes Silky who has established a sterling reputation as an artist through an impressive catalogue 

of releases and a long list of club and festival appearances. 

Caribbean House Evolution 2019 

It’s year seven for this four-day house music festival here in Turks & Caicos, held on July 18–21, 2019. The festival 

celebrates friends, vacations and house music. Evolving from a small private series of parties in 2012, it now attracts 

international DJs, as well as providing the local community and visitors with house music from around the world. 

Sponsors include Larry Klein Productions, The Hartling Group, Grace Bay Resorts, Royal West Indies, Somewhere 

Café and Lounge, Kalooki’s, Wymara Resort and Villas, IGA, The Wine Cellar, Panoply, Glow, Blufin and more. It all 

starts with the DJ Workshop for kids from the Edward Gartland Youth Centre and VIP Opening Party at The Shore Club. 

Next is the Club Night Party at Sandbox, a Yoga Brunch Session and Sunset Mix at Somewhere Café and Lounge, a 

dinner at Wymara, and the ultimate Private Island Beach Party at Water Cay on the final day. 

Founder Johnny Legend says, “I’m so thankful to have the support of local businesses and proud to see the festival 

grow year on year. For me, music makes all things possible. Each year I introduce new acts and talent found locally and 

internationally and I’m always overwhelmed by the response and energy. Funds raised in 2019 will go towards music 

equipment for the Edward Gartland Youth Centre’s planned music studio. As someone who used music as an escape 

From left: New to the festival for 2019, DJ Rashida has played her signature fusion of hip-hop, funk, soul, dancehall 

and house around the globe. Local children are eager to learn so they can follow in her footsteps. 

60 www.timespub.tc 

in my youth, I 

understand 

its 

healing powers. I 

can’t wait to see 

how these talented 

kids use the equipment 

and studio 

to create beautiful 

music of their 

own.” For more 

information, visit 

www.caribbeanhouseevolution. 

com. 

Photos Courtesy 

Caribbean House 

Evolution

astrolabe 

newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum 

front street, p.o. box 188, grand turk, turks & caicos islands, bwi 

tel 649 946 2160 • fax 649 946 2160 • email info@tcmuseum.org • web www.tcmuseum.org 

One Big Journey 

By Michael P. Pateman, Ph.D., Director, Turks & Caicos National Museum 

Over the last year, a lot of space 

has been dedicated to the development 

of the new museum in 

Providenciales. That journey has 

focused on the physical building, 

the role and importance of museums 

in communities, and the 

future of the National Museum 

building. However, there has not 

been much discussion of what will 

be displayed there. 

Under the concept “Five 

Galleries, One Big Journey,” the 

new museum will display a wide 

variety of Turks & Caicos history, 

heritage and culture in the space of 

five galleries: 

Entrance and Welcome; Natural 

History; Pre-Columbian; Transatlantic Slave Trade and Modern Ethnography. 

The stories presented in our galleries intend to take visitors beyond the beach to a curious place, 

where they can keep exploring. The exhibitions housed here will change periodically as the Museum 

embraces collaborations with fellow institutions and as it seeks to enhance community relations. 

A huge part of the new museum is the development of an educational space. We intend to use the 

emerging technology of virtual reality to create digital exhibitions and digital learning experiences. Over 

the next several editions of the Astrolabe, we will expand on the details. We haven’t abandoned Grand 

Turk! New and enhanced exhibits are also planned for the Grand Turk museum as well. 

In this edition of Astrolabe, the feature article discusses the Museum’s new oral history initiative. 

This project seeks to allow Islanders to tell their story in their own words. The second article is a collaborative 

project with the Museum and longtime contributor Dr. Shaun Sullivan on the Lucayans in the 

Turks & Caicos Islands. 

This is indeed an exciting time to be a part of the Turks & Caicos National Museum! a 


astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum 

Alton Higgs, “Da Bush Doctor” from Middle Caicos, shared his extensive knowledge of bush medicine as part of “People of the Islands,” the 

TCI National Museum’s new oral history/ethnography project. 

MICHAEL PATEMAN 

Bold & Unapologetic 

People of the Islands in front of the lens. 

By Michael P. Pateman and Vanessa A. Pateman 

“People of the Islands” is the National Museum’s new oral history/ethnography program. This project 

seeks to tell the story of “Islanders” of the Bahama Archipelago through their own voice, with a first person 

narrative. Oral histories are stories that living individuals tell about their past, or the past of other people. 

The purpose of the Museum’s research is to attempt to understand what is happening naturally and to 

interpret the data gathered to see what implications could be formed regarding the culture and heritage 

of the Bahamas and Turks & Caicos Islands. 

62 www.timespub.tc



Background linkage 

The first island of the archipelago (Eleuthera, in the 

Bahamas) was settled by Bermudians looking for religious 

freedom in 1647. It wasn’t until 1681 that salt rakers 

from Bermuda seasonally settled Grand Turk to begin salt 

raking. In 1766 the Turks & Caicos were a part of the 

Bahama colony and was placed under the administration 

of the Bahamian Government. Attempts to integrate the 

two distinct communities failed, and in 1874 after the 

Great Bahama Hurricane devastated much of the archipelago, 

the Turks & Caicos Islands became a dependency 

to the British Crown Colony of Jamaica. After Jamaican 

independence in 1962, the Turks & Caicos returned to 

Bahamian control until Bahamian independence in 1973. 

Although the island groups have remained separate 

administratively (Grand Turk continued as the administrative 

capital of the Turks & Caicos during Bahamian 

governance), there are many cultural and familiar relationships 

between the islands. Additionally, there have 

been multiple migratory periods of large amounts of people 

between the island groups. As a result, Bahamians 

and “Belongers” share similar ancestry, cultural traditions, 

food and dialect. Presently, there are no studies 

that explore these relationships—therefore both island 

group claim to be the original home of multiple forms of 

cultural expressions that are only found in the Bahama 

archipelago in its present form. 

Boat building, sailing and navigation 

Everyone learned to swim, build model boats on the bay 

outside their homes and eventually graduated to building 

or sailing larger Caicos sloops. For almost 300 years, 

the inhabitants of the Turks & Caicos Islands depended 

on small sloops for their commerce, fishing and transportation. 

These native boats have generally been small 

because of limitations imposed on them by the shallow 

waters surrounding the Islands and the scarcity of suitable 

native wood. 

The largest of these sloops were approximately 30 

feet overall and were used to haul local products such as 

salt, dried conch and sisal to ships anchored offshore. 

Additionally, these sloops were used for inter-island 

transportation. They regularly traveled to Haiti, the 

Dominican Republic and the Bahamas. 

Changing commercial needs and modern transportation 

between the Islands have made the native sloops all 

Boat building was crucial to the development of the Turks & Caicos 

Islands. From top: Headley Forbes shares a photo of the last boat he 

built. James Dean, a master boat builder from Blue Hills, Providenciales 

also participated in the Museum’s project. 

VANESSA PATEMAN 



but obsolete. With this change, the skills associated with 

construction and sailing such craft are now possessed by 

only a handful of men scattered throughout the Islands. 



Medicine, music and much more 

There was no hospital on the Islands until recently, so 

people used indigenous medicine to heal the sick and 

wounded. This “bush medicine” was made from herbs, 

plants, barks, roots and sometimes animal products. 

The various concoctions are said to have abilities ranging 

from curing the common cold, improving the chances 

of getting pregnant, and even curing cancer. This island 

knowledge was passed down through the generations. 

Not only was bush medicine passed down through 

generational knowledge, but ways of storytelling—specifically 

musical traditions—were shared. This musical 

cultural expression is originally known as Ripsaw. Oral 

tradition in the Turks & Caicos says that it originated 

in these islands and spread to nearby islands such as 

the Bahamas and has been rebranded as Rake-n-Scrape. 

Bahamian oral tradition tells the story in reverse, that 

Rake-n-Scrape originated in the Bahamas, especially Cat 

Island, and spread to the Turks & Caicos. People of the 

Islands will explore these stories further. While we might 

not solve the mystery of where Ripsaw or Rake-n-Scrape 

originated, we will explore the unique sounds of both 

musical forms as told by the musicians themselves. 

Engaging the community 

This project helps to fulfill one of the major goals of the 

Museum—engaging the Turks & Caicos community. One 

of the resulting end products, the “People of the Islands” 

ethnography film, is a way for the Museum to present and 

show understanding of the cultural heritage of the TCI 

from the inside out, as we give a voice to the people who 

have shaped the country. This documentary will include 

dialect via recorded speech by people in the community. 

When this speech is in a language unfamiliar or unclear to 

the intended film audience, the producers generally use 

voice-over translation or subtitles. 

“People of the Islands” will be a description of TCI 

culture and traditions with a focus on the people who 

Opposite page from top: Musician and songwriter Lovey Forbes is one 

of TCI’s cultural icons. Here he is performing at the Valentine’s Cup 

Model Boat Races in 2019. Grand Turk native Shirley Brown is a former 

nurse and dancer. Museum Director Michael Pateman interviews 

Lovie Forbes for the “People of the Islands” project. 

VANESSA PATEMAN 

64 www.timespub.tc


live within the Islands, including their personal adaptation, 

their success and an understanding of how culture 

shaped this. In as much as cultures are constantly changing, 

the history and context (interrelated issues, settings, 

environment and social relationships) play important 

roles in the lives of individuals in determining the webs 

of significance. Ethnographic research is also done in an 

attempt to discover patterns in human behavior. One of 

the main advantages of the documentary is that it will 

help the Museum to identify and analyze research data. 

We’re conducting other types of studies, which are not 

based on in-situ observation or interaction. 

According to the American Anthropological 

Association, “Anthropologists . . . have obligations to 

the scholarly discipline, to the wider society and culture, 

and to the human species, other species, and the environment.” 

Ethnography is the bread and butter of social 

(and cultural) anthropological analyses and theories. That 

is also why most sociocultural anthropologists do fieldwork. 

Life as a Belonger 

There’s an enduring story to be told from the perspective 

of the bold people, called “Belongers,” who carved 

out a living within these Islands. They contributed to the 

economic growth and development by the sweat of their 

brows and the art of their hands. Through the knowledge 

and wisdom of bush medicine they healed themselves, 

passing all this heritage from one generation to the next. 

They left an indelible legacy that must not only be told, 

but preserved for the future. 

We will continue to share the results of this project 

in future editions of Astrolabe, social media channels 

and ultimately in new exhibitions in both Grand Turk and 

Providenciales. Everyone has a story to tell and it is our 

goal to collect these stories. a 

Museum Matters 

Community involvement 

Community is defined as a feeling of fellowship with 

others as a result of sharing common attitudes, interests 

and goals; a group of people living in the same 

place or having a particular characteristic in common. 

One of the main objects of the Turks & Caicos National 

Museum is to promote community involvement with 

cooperation, respect and participation. The Museum 

is where we want to create a place for the community 

to have a feeling of belonging and gain knowledge of 

why the Islands are like they are, who has lived here in 

the past and what they did and why. 

Our mission statement lends itself to the very 

meaning of community: “The Turks & Caicos National 

Museum is a not for profit organization aimed at 

recording, interpreting, preserving and celebrating the 

history of the Turks & Caicos Islands and its people.” 

We offer several community events at both locations 

on an annual basis. 

Grand Turk children’s club 

Sponsored by sales of the children’s book, Where is 

Simon, Sandy?, written by Donna Seim, the club is held 

monthly on Grand Turk. Activities include art, crafts 

If you have a recommendation for an interviewee 

for “People of the Islands,” please send us an email at 

info@tcmuseum.org. 

and projects that focus on the culture, nature, environment 

and history of the Turks & Caicos. 

The goal is for the children to have fun while learning 

more about their past, present and future. Over 

the last few months, the Children’s Club has presented 

storytelling, learning facts about sea life, drawing, coloring 

and painting. During the school break in April 

(continued on page 70) 



Clockwise from top: The South Bank site excavation team included 

local volunteers and students, along with archaeologist Dr. Shaun 

Sullivan (far right). The circular impressions on this pot sherd are 

a decorative motif from the late ceramic period in northwestern 

Hispaniola, indicating trade with the Lucayans at the South Bank site. 

Students from the BWI Collegiate joined in the excavation. 

To the Rescue 

Community teamwork investigates early island culture. 

By Dr. Shaun D. Sullivan and Dr. Michael P. Pateman ~ Photos Courtesy Turks & Caicos National Museum 

In the fall of 2018, local volunteers and students came together in a community effort to record a key part 

of the culture of early Turks & Caicos Islanders. They came from nearby homes and schools to search out, 

sort and sift ancient artifacts and food remains from the South Bank archaeological site on the western 

shore of the Juba Sound estuary. 

66 www.timespub.tc


Evidence of prehistoric human occupation of the area 

around Juba Point was first reported by Theodoor De Booy 

in the early 1900s. He was exploring the Islands on behalf 

of the Heye Museum of the American Indian in New York 

when he found pre-Columbian ceramics and stone artifacts 

in caves above the sound behind Long Bay. 

Exploring the area downhill from the caves in 1976, 

archaeologist Shaun Sullivan came upon Amerindian 

ceramics and shell food remains in a grassy area alongside 

the original channel for the Caicos Marina, and followed 

up with text excavation there in early 1977. 

The site was originally recorded as Providenciales–1, 

and has come to be renamed the South Bank site. 

Radiocarbon dating of charcoal from a firepit encountered 

in 1977 provided a calibrated date of AD 1328 +/– 49 

years. Imported ceramics encountered indicated contact 

with the Amerindians in the Greater Antilles. Locally 

made ceramics, Palmetto Ware, were common, classifying 

this as a local settled culture, i.e., a Lucayan village site. 

Bone remains analyzed at the Florida Museum of Natural 

History demonstrated exploitation of fish from the estuary 

and near shore environments. 

More than 40 years later in the spring of 2018, Sullivan 

and Beluga catamaran captain Tim Ainley returned to 

the site and found it remarkably undisturbed, in spite 

of intervening development surrounding it. A local resident, 

Kathi Barrington, wandered by with her dog, and 

advised that the site was soon to be converted to housing 

and a marina. Concerned by the pending loss of cultural 

remains, the developers were contacted. 

Coming to appreciate the value of the site, Windward 

Long Bay Development Ltd., via Ingo Reckhorn, generously 

agreed to fund the bulk of the cost excavations 

and analysis to capture key information about the ancient 

culture while there was still time. Additional funding and 

support came from the Turks & Caicos Reef Fund, the 

Anthropological Research Council and Sail Beluga. 

A rapid effort was made to inform the local community 

of the site’s value and recruit participants in the 

rescue archaeology effort. We teamed up with Michael 

Pateman and Candianne Williams of the Turks & Caicos 

National Museum and reached out to Ethlyn Gibbs of the 

Turks & Caicos National Trust; Ludmila Fulford of the TCI 

Department of Education; Nicole Caesar, Lormeka Williams 

and Eric Salamanca of the TCI Department of Environment 

and Coastal Resources, Agile LeVin of Visit TCI and Sylvia 

Part of each day’s work by students and volunteers at the South Bank 

site included screening excavated soil to uncover artifacts. 

Wigglesworth of the BWI Collegiate. 

In early October, with a community outreach response 

of a dozen local adult residents and several bright and 

energetic students from the Collegiate, we launched our 

effort to capture the information locked in the earth. We 

began each day gathered around our artifact-sorting tables 

in the shade of a high canopy to discuss the practical 

tasks ahead for that day, as well as the broader theories 

surrounding what we were doing. We discussed the prehistory 

of the Islands; Lucayan and Taino Indian cultures; 

ancient human migrations; anthropology; archaeology; 

and the roles of museums and of public participation in 

research to assist in creating a sense of cultural continuity 

with the past. There were a lot of questions, and the lively 

discussions that ensued helped give meaning to our findings 

during the excavations. 

The youngsters who participated enlivened the 

enterprise considerably. They were enthusiastic and 

good-natured. They kibitzed and sang while they worked. 

We hosted field trips to the archaeological site for more 

than half a dozen local elementary and secondary schools, 

representatives of the press, local officials and Governor 

Freeman. The visiting students were curious and asked 



From top: Museum Director Dr. Michael Pateman worked to excavate 

and sample the unusual black earth deposit. It may have been manmade, 

the result of prehistoric “composting.” 

good questions. Some expressed interest in becoming 

archaeologists in the future. Community engagement was 

a strong part of our plan, and the interaction with schools 

and students was an important element of our networking 

activities. 

We dug a score of test pits across the site to determine 

the distribution of the subsurface deposits, and 

used those results to chose two particularly rich areas, 

one north and one south, for controlled excavations. We 

cut down carefully, layer by layer, screening and mapping 

the deposits and artifacts we encountered, with the students 

and volunteers learning to classify and make note of 

the materials recovered. We recorded ceramics by number 

sherds and weight, distinguishing between locally made 

Palmetto Ware and imported ceramics from the Greater 

Antilles to the south; obtained charcoal for radiocarbon 

dating; preserved animal bones and identified the number 

and species of shell remains. We photographed all the 

artifacts. 

In both the north and south excavation areas we 

quickly encountered distinctive concentrations of carbon-stained, 

burned and cracked limestone mixed with 

broken conch shells. We have come to recognize these as 

“earth ovens” which were open pit, broken stone and shell 

lined cooking areas, which are a form of Lucayan cultural 

deposit that is widely distributed in the Turks & Caicos 

and the Bahamas. 

The northern excavation produced some intriguing 

soil layers (strata). Working downward, a few centimeters 

from the surface we encountered a thin layer of very pale 

soil, a mixture of sand and marl, which appeared to have 

been carried in from the local estuary and spread on the 

surface. It would have produced a smooth walking surface 

for the Lucayans. 

That pale layer capped living debris (midden) that 

quickly transitioned to exceptionally black soil. It was so 

black it was literally off our soil color chart. The earth 

ovens are dark, but this was darker. Without claiming 

exact duplication, we note that in lowland South America 

at prehistoric sites there are commonly found man-made 

(anthropogenic) soils that are very dark; these man-made 

soils are termed “terra preta” or “Indian earth.” These terra 

preta soils are the result of intentional composting. We 

took samples of this black soil from South Bank for analysis. 

Michael Pateman focused the excavation effort in the 

northern sector on sampling and defining this black earth 

feature. 

We found ceramic fragments scattered throughout 

the deposits. We always study ceramics because they 

are sturdy and endure. They have stylistic traits in their 

form and decoration that evolve through time and spread 

through space via trade and the sharing of styles, which 

are passed down and across from potter to potter. 

One decorative motif on imported ceramics of note 

was wide punctation (circular impressions). This was 

found on ceramics excavated in 1977 and in our October 

2018 dig. Similar decoration was noted on ceramics recovered 

by De Booy over a century earlier at the nearby Juba 

Point caves, and a nearly identical decoration was found 

on imported ceramics at a contemporaneous site on 

Middle Caicos, site MC-12. That decorative motif is known 

from the late ceramic period in northwestern Hispaniola. 

That zone may therefore have been included in the trade 

68 www.timespub.tc


network of the Lucayans at the South Bank site. 

Today we have methods for extracting information 

about diet from ceramics and shell remains. Microscopic 

silicon structures from plants (phytoliths) as well as starch 

grains, fat remains (lipids) and pollen remain adhered to 

some ceramic and shell specimens. We carefully preserved 

unwashed ceramics and shells from the South Bank site 

for such analysis, which is ongoing at the University of 

North Carolina at Wilmington (UNCW) and at the Florida 

Museum of Natural History (FMNH). Among the shells 

being analyzed at FMNH are clam shells, Codakia orbicularis, 

that show edge chipping from when they were 

used for scraping, quite possibly for scraping the skins of 

tubers, such as manioc. 

Locally made Palmetto Ware ceramics have crushed 

shell inclusions (tempering) in the clay that help bind 

it together. Coming from the volcanic origin islands to 

The edge of this clam shell, Codakia orbicularis, shows that it was 

likely used for scraping the skins of tubers, such as manioc. 

the south, Cuba and Hispaniola, imported ceramics we 

encounter contain igneous and metamorphic grit tempering. 

In order to analyze the minerals in the import 

tempering, and thereby help trace them back to their 

point of origin, we have cut very thin sections of those 

ceramics, allowing microscopic examination of the minerals. 

This is referred to as petrographic analysis, and is 

currently being undertaken at UNCW. 

Comparable petrographic analysis of ceramics from 

the Greater Antilles is just starting to be conducted by 

other researchers, so for the moment we have a limited 

comparative base. However, that will change as more such 

work is done in the islands to the south. In the near future 

we will be better able to trace these imported ceramics 

back to their hearth zone, and thus have an expanded 

picture of the islanders’ trade networks. 

Local Palmetto Ware often has basketry and mat 

impressions. We brought in an expert, Charlene 

Hutcheson, to help with analysis of these impressions, 

and by extension advance depiction of the basketry and 

weaving skills of the Lucayans. 

Charcoal samples extracted from the midden were 

sent to Beta Analytics in Miami for radiocarbon dating. 

The three test results indicated a high probability that the 

occupation period of the village was between 1300 and 

1440 AD, which is consistent with the radiocarbon date 

mentioned from the 1977 dig. 

Why settle there? Why settle by the mouth of Juba 

Sound? The Sound is a rich natural environment, and the 

South Bank site is particularly well located to take advantage 

of local resources. The site sits in the lee of the high 

ironshore at the south end of Long Bay, where canoes 

could be landed in calm waters. It sits on deep sandy soil, 

upon which it would have been easy to build the pole and 

thatch structures of the Lucayans, and within which the 

Amerindians could plant their varied crops. A permanent 

surface fresh water source is located to the northeast, 

at the base of the hill on which are found the Juba Point 

caves. The estuary system of the Sound is rich in shellfish, 

and the narrow estuary mouth is a natural tidal funnel for 

fish and an ideal location for fish traps. Nearby offshore 

are banks that have abundant conch, and the patch reefs 

host many fish. The bone and shell remains recovered 

from the South Bank site indicate that all these resources 

and environmental zones were being exploited. 

Analysis is ongoing, but here is where we are, and 

what we expect to learn. We are strengthening our 

understanding of how the Lucayans interacted with their 

environment and utilized resources within it; firm dating 

of the site between approximately 1300 and 1440 

AD helps place the settlement in the context of regional 

cultural development and links to contemporaneous 

communities; decorative motifs and mineral content of 

imported ceramics are enabling refined modeling of trade 

ties and networks; and analysis of food residue on bone, 

shell and ceramics will expand our understanding of the 

Lucayan diet and of the plant and animal species that they 

used to fuel their economy. 

The South Bank dig was productive, and could not 

have been successful without the contributions of local 

officials, students and volunteers. It was a true community 

effort. a 



Museum Matters (continued) 

we had a beach fun day. Children of all ages played 

games, swam, snorkeled and had lunch. Where is 

Simon, Sandy? books are available in the gift shop at 

both Museum locations. Cases and half-cases are also 

available for sale at wholesale prices. 

Provo Museum gala — new in 2019 

The Turks and Caicos National Museum Foundation 

(TCNMF), with the invaluable support of the Hartling 

Group, corporate Turks & Caicos, hosted our inaugural 

fundraising gala at the Shore Club on June 8, 2019 

under the theme, “Building for the future, to protect the 

past.” The goal is to raise funds for the development 

of the new National Museum facility in Providenciales. 

This event will be the TCNMF’s major fundraiser for the 

year and will be held annually. 

Museum summer camp 

The Provo Summer Camp will be held July 8–12 at 

the Village at Grace Bay campus. This fun, free camp 

explores history through arts, crafts, games, living history 

activities and field trips. The camp is another event 

sponsored by the sale of Where is Simon, Sandy? books. 

Back in the Day — Village at Grace Bay 

This event is held annually on the third Saturday in May 

in conjunction with International Museum Day. It is a 

celebration of the dynamic heritage and culture of the 

Turks & Caicos Islands. The Caicos Heritage homestead 

comes alive with the “Back in the Day” theme. Step back 

in time with dramatic performances, food, music, dance 

and traditional craft. 

Grand Turk BBQ & conch fritter cook off 

This year’s inaugural event will be held July 20, withprizes 

and bragging rights for the winners! The day will 

include live music (Island Vibes Band), food, refreshments, 

games for the kids and a raffle with great prizes. 

Grand Turk summer eco camp 

Every summer in conjunction with the TCI Department 

of Environment and Coastal Resources, we offer a 

week-long club. Daily activities for the kids include 

snorkeling, kayaking, hiking and crafts as they learn 

about the Islands’ environment. This year’s Eco Camp 

is August 12–16, also funded by the sale of Where is 

Simon, Sandy? books. 

History & cultural heritage quiz 

This annual event is held each October in Provo to coincide 

with Heritage Month. Schools from all the islands 

are invited to participate. In addition to the Challenge 

Trophy which is kept at the current winner’s school, 

the 2018 prize included a trip to Jamaica to visit the 

UNESCO world heritage sites of Blue and John Crow 

Mountain, museums, great houses and other historical 

sites. Second prize winners spent the day immersed in 

history on one of the Turks & Caicos Islands. All of this 

is made possible with our many sponsors. 

70 www.timespub.tc


Museum Day— Grand Turk 

November of each year we celebrate the 1991 opening 

of the Turks & Caicos National Museum with 

Museum Day. The celebration includes food, music, 

raffles and special activities for children. Museum 

Day for 2019 is November 2. 

Various other events 

Both Museum locations occasionally offer “Evening 

with the Expert” events. Guest speakers, including 

archeologists, historians and authors, present lectures 

on their area of expertise specifically about the 

Join the Museum 

Become a Member of the 

Turks & Caicos National 

Museum and receive a 

year’s subscription to Times of the Islands (which 

includes Astrolabe), free admission to the Museum 

and other benefits. 

Senior (62+) $35 • Individual $50 

Family/Friend $100 • Sponsor $250 

Contributor $500 • Partner $750 

We have several options for joining: 

Turks & Caicos Islands. Both locations frequently welcome 

school groups. The Grand Turk location does 

not charge for school group visits and Provo charges 

a minimal amount. The Grand Turk museum is creating 

a Community Wall Mosaic that reflects all aspects 

of island life including history, culture, wildlife and 

nature. This will be an ongoing project that will turn 

something ordinary into something extraordinary! a 

By Lisa Talbot 

• Visit the Museum at our Providenciales location at 

The Village at Grace Bay or our Grand Turk location 

in Guinep House on Front Street. 

• Visit our website at 

www.tcmuseum.org/membership-support/. 

• Send US checks to: Dr. Toni L. Carrell, Friends of 

the Turks & Caicos National Museum, 39 Condesa 

Road, Santa Fe, NM 87508 

*For U.S. residents, support of the Museum may be tax-deductible 

if you join via Friends of the Turks & Caicos National 

Museum, our affiliated institution and registered 501 (c) (3). 


about the Islands 

Map provided courtesy Wavey Line Publishing. Their navigation charts and decorative and historic maps of the Turks & Caicos Islands, the 

Bahamas, and Hispaniola are available in shops throughout the Islands. Visit www.amnautical.com. 

Where we are 

The Turks & Caicos Islands lie some 575 miles southeast 

of Miami — approximately 1 1/2 hours flying time — with 

the Bahamas about 30 miles to the northwest and the 

Dominican Republic some 100 miles to the southeast. 

The country consists of two island groups separated 

by the 22-mile wide Columbus Passage. To the west are 

the Caicos Islands: West Caicos, Providenciales, North 

Caicos, Middle Caicos, East Caicos, and South Caicos. To 

the east are the Turks Islands: Grand Turk and Salt Cay. 

The Turks & Caicos total 166 square miles of land 

area on eight islands and 40 small cays. The country’s 

population is approximately 36,500. 

Getting here 

There are international airports on Grand Turk, North 

Caicos, Providenciales, and South Caicos, with domestic 

airports on all of the islands except East Caicos. 

At this time, all of the major international carriers 

arrive and depart from Providenciales International Airport. 

American Airlines flies from Miami, Charlotte, Chicago, 

Dallas, New York/JFK and Philadelphia. JetBlue Airways 

offers service from Fort Lauderdale, Boston and New 

York/JFK. Southwest Airlines travels to Fort Lauderdale. 

Delta Airlines flies from Atlanta and New York/JFK. United 

Airlines travels from Chicago and Newark. WestJet travels 

from Toronto. Air Canada offer flights from Toronto. 

British Airways travels from London/Gatwick via Antigua. 

72 www.timespub.tc

Bahamasair and InterCaribbean Airways fly to Nassau, 

Bahamas. Flights to: Antigua; Dominica; Cap Haitien 

and Port Au Prince, Haiti; Kingston and Montego Bay, 

Jamaica; Miami, Florida; Puerto Plata and Santo Domingo, 

Dominican Republic; San Juan, Puerto Rico; St. Lucia; St. 

Maarten; Santiago, Cuba; and Tortola are available on 

InterCaribbean Airways, while Caicos Express travels to 

Cap Haitien daily. (Schedules are current as of June 2019 

and subject to change.) 

Inter-island service is provided by InterCaribbean 

Airways, Caicos Express Airways and Global Airways. Sea 

and air freight services operate from Florida. 

Language 

English. 

Time zone 

Eastern Standard Time (EST)/Daylight Savings Time 

observed. 

Currency 

The United States dollar. The Treasury also issues a Turks 

& Caicos crown and quarter. Travellers cheques in U.S. 

dollars are widely accepted and other currency can be 

changed at local banks. American Express, VISA, and 

MasterCard are welcomed at many locations. 

Climate 

The average year-round temperature is 83ºF (28ºC). The 

hottest months are September and October, when the 

temperature can reach 90 to 95ºF (33 to 35ºC). However, 

the consistent easterly trade winds temper the heat and 

keep life comfortable. 

Casual resort and leisure wear is accepted attire for 

daytime; light sweaters or jackets may be necessary on 

some breezy evenings. It’s wise to wear protective clothing 

and a sunhat and use waterproof sunscreen when out 

in the tropical sun. 

Entry requirements 

Passport. A valid onward or return ticket is also required. 

Customs formalities 

Visitors may bring in duty free for their own use one carton 

of cigarettes or cigars, one bottle of liquor or wine, 

and some perfume. The importation of all firearms including 

those charged with compressed air without prior 

approval in writing from the Commissioner of Police is 

strictly forbidden. Spear guns, Hawaiian slings, controlled 


drugs, and pornography are also illegal. 

Returning residents may bring in $400 worth of 

merchandise per person duty free. A duty of 10% to 

60% is charged on most imported goods along with a 

7% customs processing fee and forms a major source of 

government revenue. 

Transportation 

A valid driver’s license from home is suitable when renting 

vehicles. A government tax of 12% is levied on all 

rental contracts. (Insurance is extra.) Driving is on the 

left-hand side of the road, with traffic flow controlled by 

round-abouts at major junctions. Please don’t drink and 

drive! Taxis are abundant throughout the Islands and 

many resorts offer shuttle service between popular visitor 

areas. Scooter, motorcycle, and bicycle rentals are 

also available. 

Telecommunications 

FLOW Ltd. provides land lines and superfast broadband 

Internet service. Mobile service is on a LTE 4G network, 

including pre and post-paid cellular phones. Most resorts 

and some stores and restaurants offer wireless Internet 

connection. Digicel operates mobile networks, with 

a full suite of LTE 4G service. FLOW is the local carrier 

for CDMA roaming on US networks such as Verizon and 

Sprint. North American visitors with GSM cellular handsets 

and wireless accounts with AT&T or Cingular can 

arrange international roaming. 

Electricity 

FortisTCI supplies electricity at a frequency of 60HZ, 

and either single phase or three phase at one of three 

standard voltages for residential or commercial service. 

FortisTCI continues to invest in a robust and resilient grid 

to ensure the highest level of reliability to customers. The 

company is integrating renewable energy into its grid and 

provides options for customers to participate in two solar 

energy programs. 

Departure tax 

US $60. It is typically included in the price of your airline 

ticket. 

Courier service 

Delivery service is provided by FedEx, with offices on 

Providenciales and Grand Turk, and DHL. UPS service is 

limited to incoming delivery. 

Postal service 

The Post Office and Philatelic Bureau in Providenciales is 

located downtown on Airport Road. In Grand Turk, the 

Post Office and Philatelic Bureau is on Church Folly. The 

Islands are known for their varied and colorful stamp 

issues. 

Media 

Multi-channel satellite television is received from the U.S. 

and Canada and transmitted via cable or over the air. 

Local station WIV-TV broadcasts on Channel 4 and Island 

EyeTV on Channel 5. People’s Television offers 75 digitally 

transmitted television stations, along with local news 

and talk shows on Channel 8. There are also a number of 

local radio stations, magazines, and newspapers. 

Medical services 

There are no endemic tropical diseases in TCI. There are 

large, modern hospitals on Grand Turk and Providenciales. 

Both hospitals offer a full range of services including: 

24/7 emergency room, operating theaters, diagnostic 

imaging, maternity suites, dialysis suites, blood bank, 

physiotherapy, and dentistry. 

74 www.timespub.tc

Brew ad May 2017_Layout 1 5/11/17 10:51 AM Page 1 

In addition, several general practitioners operate in 

the country, and there is a recompression chamber, along 

with a number of private pharmacies. 

Immigration 

A resident’s permit is required to live in the Islands. A 

work permit and business license are also required to 

work and/or establish a business. These are generally 

granted to those offering skills, experience, and qualifications 

not widely available on the Islands. Priority is given 

to enterprises that will provide employment and training 

for T&C Islanders. 

Government/Legal system 

TCI is a British Crown colony. There is a Queen-appointed 

Governor, HE Dr. John Freeman. He presides over an executive 

council formed by the elected local government. 

Lady Sharlene Cartwright-Robinson is the country’s first 

woman premier, leading a majority People’s Democratic 

Movement (PDM) House of Assembly. 

The legal system is based upon English Common 

Law and administered by a resident Chief Justice, Chief 

Magistrate, and Deputy Magistrates. Judges of the Court 

of Appeal visit the Islands twice a year and there is a final 

Right of Appeal to Her Majesty’s Privy Council in London. 

Taxes 

There are currently no direct taxes on either income 

or capital for individuals or companies. There are no 

exchange controls. Indirect taxation comprises customs 

duties and fees, stamp duty, taxes on accommodations, 

restaurants, vehicle rentals, other services and gasoline, 

as well as business license fees and departure taxes. 

Economy 

Historically, TCI’s economy relied on the export of salt. 

Currently, tourism, the offshore finance industry, and 

fishing generate the most private sector income. The 

Islands’ main exports are lobster and conch. Practically 

all consumer goods and foodstuffs are imported. 

The Turks & Caicos Islands are recognised as an 

important offshore financial centre, offering services 

such as company formation, offshore insurance, banking, 

trusts, limited partnerships, and limited life companies. 

The Financial Services Commission regulates the industry 

and spearheads the development of offshore legislation. 

People 

Citizens of the Turks & Caicos Islands are termed 

Turk’s Head Brewery 

Brewery Tours Monday-Friday 

11AM, 1PM, 3PM 

$15/pp 

Enjoy a complimentary selection of local craft beer 

after your tour! 

Email tours@turksheadbeer.com 

Call 649.941.3637 x 1005 to book 

www.turksheadbrewery.tc 

52 Universal Dr. 

Providenciales, TCI 

TOUR TASTE SHOP 

Island Auto_Layout 1 12/12/17 12:49 PM Page 1 

ISLAND AUTO RENTALS 

For Quality & Reliable Service 

& Competitive Prices 

The Cruise Center, Grand Turk 

Neville Adams 

Tel: (649) 946-2042 

Cell: (649) 232-0933 or (649) 231-4214 

Email: nevilleadams@hotmail.com 


Levoi Marshall 

Cell: (649) 441-6737 

Email: levoimarshall86@gmail.com 

Web: islandautorentalstci.com 


“Belongers” and are primarily descendants of African 

slaves who were brought to the Islands to work in the 

salt ponds and cotton plantations. The country’s large 

expatriate population includes Canadians, Americans, 

Brits and Europeans, along with Haitians, Jamaicans, 

Dominicans, Bahamians, Indians, and Filipinos. 

Churches 

Churches are the center of community life and there 

are many faiths represented in the Islands including: 

Adventist, Anglican, Assembly of God, Baha’i, Baptist, 

Catholic, Church of God, Episcopal, Jehovah’s Witnesses, 

Methodist and Pentecostal. Visitors are always welcome. 

Pets 

Incoming pets must have an import permit, veterinary 

health certificate, vaccination certificate, and lab test 

results to be submitted at the port of entry to obtain 

clearance from the TCI Department of Agriculture, Animal 

Health Services. 

National symbols 

The National Bird is the Brown pelican (Pelecanus occidentalis). 

The National Plant is Island heather (Limonium 

bahamense) found nowhere else in the world. The 

National Tree is the Caribbean pine (Pinus caribaea var. 

bahamensis). The National Costume consists of white cotton 

dresses tied at the waist for women and simple shirts 

and loose pants for men, with straw hats. Colors representing 

the various islands are displayed on the sleeves 

and bases. The National Song is “This Land of Ours” by 

the late Rev. E.C. Howell, PhD. Peas and Hominy (Grits) 

with Dry Conch is revered as symbolic island fare. 

Going green 

TCI Waste Disposal Services currently offers recycling 

services through weekly collection of recyclable alumi- 

num, glass, and plastic. Single-use plastic bags have been 

banned as of May 1, 2019. 

Recreation 

Sporting activities are centered around the water. Visitors 

can choose from deep-sea, reef, or bonefishing, sailing, 

glass-bottom boat and semi-sub excursions, windsurfing, 

waterskiing, parasailing, sea kayaking, snorkelling, scuba 

diving, kiteboarding, stand up paddleboarding, and 

beachcombing. Pristine reefs, abundant marine life, and 

excellent visibility make TCI a world-class diving destination. 

Tennis and golf—there is an 18 hole championship 

course on Providenciales—are also popular. 

The Islands are an ecotourist’s paradise. Visitors can 

enjoy unspoilt wilderness and native flora and fauna in 33 

national parks, nature reserves, sanctuaries, and areas of 

historical interest. The National Trust provides trail guides 

to several hiking trails, as well as guided tours of major 

historical sites. There is an excellent national museum on 

Grand Turk, with an auxillary branch on Providenciales. A 

scheduled ferry and a selection of tour operators make it 

easy to take day trips to the outer islands. 

Other land-based activities include bicycling, horseback 

riding and football (soccer). Personal trainers are 

available to motivate you, working out of several fitness 

centres. You will also find a variety of spa and body treatment 

services. 

Nightlife includes local bands playing island music 

at bars and restaurants and some nightclubs. There is 

a casino on Providenciales, along with many electronic 

gaming parlours. Stargazing is extraordinary! 

Shoppers will find Caribbean paintings, T-shirts, 

sports and beachwear, and locally made handicrafts, 

including straw work and conch crafts. Duty free outlets 

sell liquor, jewellery, watches, perfume, leather goods, 

crystal, china, cameras, electronics, brand-name clothing 

and accessories, along with Cuban cigars. a 

76 www.timespub.tc

where to stay 

Grand Turk 

range of daily rates 

US$ (subject to change) 

number of units 

major credit cards 

restaurant 

bar 

air conditioning 

phone in unit 

television in unit 

kitchen in unit 

laundry service 

pool 

on the beach 

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The Arches of Grand Turk – Tel 649 946 2941 190–210 4 • • • • • • • 

Bohio Dive Resort – Tel 649 231 3572/800 494 4301 • Web www.bohioresort.com 170–230 16 • • • • • • • • 

Crabtree Apartments – Tel 978 270 1698 • Web www.GrandTurkVacationRental.com 210–250 3 • • • • • • 

Manta House – Tel 649 946 1111 • Web www.grandturk-mantahouse.com 110–130 5 • • • • • • • 

Osprey Beach Hotel – Tel 649 946 2666 • Web www.ospreybeachhotel.com 90–225 37 • • • • • • • • • • 

Pelican House – Tel 649 246 6797 • Web www.pelicanhousegrandturk.com 110-130 3 • • • • • 

Salt Raker Inn – Tel 649 946 2260 • Web www.saltrakerinn.com 55–140 13 • • • • • • • 

Solomon Porches Guesthouse – Tel 649 946 2776/241 2937 • Fax 649 946 1984 75–100 3 • • 

Middle Caicos 

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Dragon Cay Resort at Mudjin Harbour – Tel 649 344 4997 • Web www.dragoncayresort.com 325 8 • • • • • • • • • 

North Caicos 

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Bottle Creek Lodge – Tel 649 946 7080 • Web www.bottlecreeklodge.com 155–240 3 • • 

Caicos Beach Condominiums – Tel 649 241 4778/786 338 9264 • Web www.caicosbeachcondos.com 159–299 8 • • • • • • • • 

Cedar Palms Suites – Tel 649 946 7113/649 244 4186 • Web www.oceanbeach.tc 250–300 3 • • • • • • • • • 

Flamingo’s Nest – Tel 649 946 7113/649 244 4186 • Web www.oceanbeach.tc 175–340 2 • • • • • • • • 

Hollywood Beach Suites - Tel 800 551 2256/649 231 1020 • Web www.hollywoodbeachsuites.com 200–235 4 • • • • • • 

JoAnne’s Bed & Breakfast - Tel 649 946 7301 • Web www.turksandcaicos.tc/joannesbnb 80–120 4 • • • • 

Palmetto Villa – Tel 649 946 7113/649 244 4186 • Web www.oceanbeach.tc 225–250 1 • • • • • • • • 

Pelican Beach Hotel - Tel 649 946 7112 • Web www.pelicanbeach.tc 125–165 14 • • • • • • • • 

Pine Cay 

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The Meridian Club - Tel 649 946 7758/888 286 7993 • Web www.meridianclub.com 800–1300 13 • • • • • • • 

Parrot Cay 

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COMO Parrot Cay Resort - Tel 649 946 7788/855 PARROTCAY • www.comohotels.com/parrotcay 550–2850 65 • • • • • • • • • • 


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Airport Inn – Tel 649 941 3514 • Web www.airportinntci.com. 140 18 • • • • • • • 

Alexandra Resort – Tel 800 284 0699/649 946 5807 • Web www.alexandraresort.com 280–420 99 • • • • • • • • • 

The Atrium Resort – Tel 888 592 7885/649 333 0101 • Web www.theatriumresorttci.com 159–410 30 • • • • • • • • 

Amanyara – Tel 866 941 8133/649 941 8133 • Web www.aman.com 1000–2100 73 • • • • • • • • 

Aquamarine Beach Houses – Tel 649 231 4535/905 556 0278 • www.aquamarinebeachhouses.com 200–850 24 • • • • • • • • 

Beaches Resort Villages & Spa – Tel 888-BEACHES/649 946 8000 • Web www.beaches.com 325–390AI 758 • • • • • • • • • 

Beach House Turks & Caicos – Tel 649 946 5800/855 946 5800 • Web www.beachchousetci.com 532–638 21 • • • • • • • • • • 

BE Beach Enclave – Tel 649 946 5619 • Web www.beachenclave.com see web 24 • • • • • • • • 

Blue Haven Resort & Marina – Tel 855 832 7667/649 946 9900 • Web www.bluehaventci.com 250–650 51 • • • • • • • • • • 

Caribbean Paradise Inn – Tel 649 946 5020 • Web www.caribbeanparadiseinn.com 162–225 17 • • • • • • • • 

Club Med Turkoise – Tel 800 258 2633/649 946 5500 • Web www.clubmed.com 120–225 290 • • • • • • • • • 

Coral Gardens on Grace Bay – Tel 649 941 5497/800 787 9115 • Web www.coralgardensongracebay.com 199-449 32 • • • • • • • • • • 

Grace Bay Club - Tel 800 946 5757/649 946 5050 • Web www.gracebayclub.com 650–1750 75 • • • • • • • • • • 

Grace Bay Suites – Tel 649 941 7447 • Web www.GraceBaySuites.com 99–195 24 • • • • • • • • 

Harbour Club Villas – Tel 649 941 5748/305 434 8568 • Web www.harbourclubvillas.com 210–240 6 • • • • • 

The Inn at Grace Bay – Tel 649 432 8633 • Web www.innatgracebay.com 179–379 48 • • • • • • • 

Kokomo Botanical Gardens - Tel 649 941 3121• Web www.aliveandwellresorts.com 169–299 16 • • • • • 

Le Vele - Tel 649 941 8800/888 272 4406 • Web www.leveleresort.com 303–630 22 • • • • • • • • 

La Vista Azul – Tel 649 946 8522/866 519 9618 • Web www.lvaresort.com 215–375 78 • • • • • • • 

The Lodgings – Tel 649 941 8107/242 6722 • Web www.hotelturksandcaicos.com 175–255 15 • • • • • • 

Neptune Villas – Tel 649 331 4328 • Web www.neptunevillastci.com 150–400 10 • • • • • • • • • 

Northwest Point Resort • Tel 649 941 5133 • Web www.northwestpointresort.com 196–550 49 • • • • • • • • • • 

Ocean Club Resorts - Tel 800 457 8787/649 946 5880 • Web www.oceanclubresorts.com 180–690 191 • • • • • • • • • • 

The Palms Turks & Caicos – Tel 649 946 8666/866 877 7256 • Web thepalmstc.com 595–1700 72 • • • • • • • • • • 


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Providenciales (continued) 

Pelican Nest Villa – Tel 649 342 5731 • Web www.pelicannest.tc 429–857 2 • • • • • • 

Point Grace – Tel 649 946 5096/888 209 5582 • Web www.pointgrace.com 424–1515 27 • • • • • • • • • • 

Ports of Call Resort – Tel 888 678 3483/649 946 8888 • Web www.portsofcallresort.com 135–210 99 • • • • • • • 

Queen Angel Resort – Tel 649 941 8771 • Web www.queenangelresort.com 150–575 56 • • • • • • • • • 

Reef Residences at Grace Bay – Tel 800 532 8536 • Web www.reefresidence.com 275-385 24 • • • • • • • 

The Regent Grand – Tel 877 288 3206/649 941 7770 • Web www.theregentgrand.com 495–1100 50 • • • • • • • • • 

Royal West Indies Resort – Tel 800 332 4203/649 946 5004 • Web www.royalwestindies.com 180–695 92 • • • • • • • • • • 

The Sands at Grace Bay – Tel 877 777 2637/649 946 5199 • Web www.thesandsresort.com 175–675 116 • • • • • • • • • • 

Seven Stars Resort – Tel 866 570 7777/649 333 7777 – Web www.sevenstarsgracebay.com 365–2400 165 • • • • • • • • • • 

The Shore Club – Tel 649 339 8000 – Web www.theshoreclubtc.com 465–4650 148 • • • • • • • • • • 

Sibonné Beach Hotel – Tel 888 570 2861/649 946 5547 • Web www.sibonne.com 110–375 29 • • • • • • • • 

The Somerset on Grace Bay – Tel 649 339 5900/888 386 8770 • Web www.thesomerset.com 350–1300 53 • • • • • • • • • • 

The Tuscany – Tel 866 359 6466/649 941 4667 • Web www.thetuscanyresort.com 975–1300 30 • • • • • • • • 

The Venetian – Tel 877 277 4793/649 941 3512 • Web www.thevenetiangracebay.com 695–1175 27 • • • • • • • • 

Villa del Mar – Tel 877 345 4890/649 941 5160 • Web www.yourvilladelmar.com 190–440 42 • • • • • • • 

Villa Mani – Tel 649 431 4444 • Web www.villamanitci.com 6500–9500 8 • • • • • • • 

Villa Renaissance – Tel 649 941 5160/877 345 4890 • www.villarenaissanceturksandcaicos.com 295–650 36 • • • • • • • • • 

The Villas at Blue Mountain – Tel 649 941 4255/866 883 5931 • www.villasatbluemountain.com 1200–2500 3 • • • • • • • • 

West Bay Club – Tel 855 749 5750/649 946 8550 • Web www.thewestbayclub.com 235–1163 46 • • • • • • • • • • 

Windsong Resort – Tel 649 333 7700/800 WINDSONG • Web www.windsongresort.com 275–925 50 • • • • • • • • • 

Wymara Resort & Villas – Tel 888 844 5986 • Web www.wymararesortandvillas.com 315–720 91 • • • • • • • • • • 

range of daily rates 

US$ (subject to change) 

number of units 

major credit cards 

restaurant 

bar 

air conditioning 

phone in unit 

television in unit 

kitchen in unit 

laundry service 

pool 

on the beach 

Salt Cay 

Castaway – Salt Cay – Tel 772 713 9502 • Web www.castawayonsaltcay.com 175–265 4 • • • • • 

Genesis Beach House – Tel 561 502 0901 • Web www.Genesisbeachhouse.com 1000–1200W 4 • • • • • 

Pirate’s Hideaway B & B – Tel 800 289 5056/649 946 6909 • Web www.saltcay.tc 165–175 4 • • • • • • • 

Salt Cay Beach House – Tel 772 713 9502 • Web www.saltcaybeachhouse.blogspot.com 799W 1 • • • • • • 

Trade Winds Guest Suites – Tel 649 232 1009 • Web www.tradewinds.tc 925–1325W 5 • • • • • 

Twilight Zone Cottage – Tel 772 713 9502 • Web www.twilightzonecottage.blogspot.com 499W 1 • • • • 

The Villas of Salt Cay – Tel 772 713 9502 • Web www.villasofsaltcay.com 150–475 5 • • • • • • • • 

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South Caicos 

East Bay Resort – Tel 844 260 8328/649 232 6444 • Web eastbayresort.com 198–1775 86 • • • • • • • • • • 

Sailrock South Caicos – Tel 855 335 72513/649 941 2121 • Web sailrockliving.com 600–800 6 • • • • • • • • • 

South Caicos Ocean & Beach Resort – Tel 877 774 5486/649 946 3219 

Web southcaicos.oceanandbeachresort.com 120–275 24 • • • • • 

Hotel & Tourism Association Member 

Green Globe Certified 

Rates (listed for doubles) do not include Government Accommodation Tax and Service Charge 

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Let us bring the ultimate spa experience to you 

in the comfort of your villa or hotel. 

Tel: +1 (649) 343 6029 

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Call-Outs 

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For a Beautiful skin 

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6 4 9 - 4 3 2 - 7 5 4 6 

Touch of Bliss_Layout 1 8/9/18 11:59 AM Page 1 

r e j o u v e n a n c e s p a . c o m 

www.ForbesRealtyTCI.com 

Sara Kaufman cell: 1-649-231-4884 

Ernest Forbes cell: 1-649-247-7599 

info@ForbesRealtyTCI.com 

Community Fellowship Centre 

EcoSeaSwimWinter 2018_Caicu Naniki classified 11/14/18 11:36 PM Page 1 

A Life-Changing Experience 

Sunday Divine Worship 9 AM 

Visitors Welcome! 

Tel: 649.941.3484 • Web: cfctci.com 

Phone: 649-242-3439 or 649-346-7344 

TC Email: Safari_Layout touchofbliss@rocketmail.com 

1 8/9/18 3:33 PM Page 1 

Newly located at Caribbean Place 

PRIVATE TOURS TO 

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Project1_Layout 1 11/27/18 10:34 PM Page 1 

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Brigitte ad Classified_Brigitte 8/25/17 11:50 AM Page 1 

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D&Bswift_Layout Home Owner Services 1 5/8/18 & Project 7:24 Management AM Page 1 

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dining out – providenciales 

Amanyara — Amanyara Resort. Tel: 941-8133. Light gourmet 

cuisine with menu changing daily. Open 6 to 10 PM. 

Angela’s Top O’ The Cove Deli — Suzie Turn, by NAPA. 

Tel: 946-4694. New York-style delicatessen. Eat-in, carry-out, 

catering. Open daily 7 AM to 5 PM; Sunday 7 AM to 2 PM. 

Asú on the Beach — Alexandra Resort. Tel: 941-8888. Casual 

Caribbean and popular international fare. Open daily for 7:30 

AM to 10:30 PM. Service indoors, poolside, and at beach. 

Baci Ristorante — Harbour Towne, Turtle Cove. Tel: 941-3044. 

Waterfront Italian dining. Brick oven pizza. Popular bar. Open 

for lunch Monday to Friday 12 to 2 PM and dinner nightly from 

6 to 10 PM. Closed Sunday. 

Bay Bistro — Sibonné Beach Hotel. Tel: 946-5396. Oceanfront 

dining featuring creative international cuisine. Open daily 

7 AM to 10 PM. Weekend brunch. Catering and special events. 

Beaches Resort & Spa — The Bight. Tel: 946-8000. 

All-inclusive resort. A variety of restaurants and bars on premises. 

Non-guests can purchase a pass. 

Bella Luna Ristorante — Glass House, Grace Bay Road. Tel: 

946-5214. Fine Italian dining. Indoor or terrace seating above 

tropical garden. Open daily from 5:30 PM. Closed Sunday. Lunch 

and pizza in the garden. Private catering available. 

Big Al’s Island Grill — Salt Mills Plaza. Tel: 941-3797. Wide 

selection of burgers, steaks, salads, and wraps in a diner-like 

setting. Open daily from 11 AM to 10 PM. 

Bugaloo’s Conch Crawl — Five Cays. Tel: 941-3863. Fresh 

local conch and seafood by the beach. Rum, buckets of beer, 

live local bands. Open daily from 11 AM to late. 

Cabana Beach Bar & Grill — Ocean Club. Tel: 946-5880. 

Casual island fare, burgers, salads, snacks. Open daily from 

8 AM to 10 PM. Tropical cocktails with a view of the sea. 

Caicos Bakery — Caicos Café Plaza. Authentic French boulangerie. 

Fresh-baked breads, rolls, croissants, muffins, quiche, 

pastries, cakes. Open 7 AM to 4:30 PM daily except Sunday. 

Caicos Café — Caicos Café Plaza. Tel: 946-5278. 

Mediterranean specialties, grilled local seafood. Fine wines, dining 

on the deck. Open 6 PM to 10 PM Monday to Saturday. 

Chicken Chicken — Times Square, downtown Provo. Fast food, 

fried chicken, native fare. 

Chinson’s Grill Shack — Leeward Highway. Tel: 941-3533. 

The Islands’ best jerk and barbecue, Jamaican pastries. Open 

daily 8 AM to 10 PM; Friday to Midnight. 

Club Med — Grace Bay Road. Tel: 946-5500. All-inclusive 

resort. Buffet-style dining; live show and disco in the evenings. 

Non-guests can purchase a daily pass. 

Coco Bistro — Grace Bay Road. Tel: 946-5369. Continental 

Caribbean cuisine by Chef Stuart Gray under a canopy of palms. 

Serving dinner from 5:30 PM daily. Look for the Cocovan airstream 

lounge with garden seating or take-away. 

Coconut Grove Restaurant & Lounge — Olympic Plaza, 

Downtown. Tel: 247-5610. Casual native fare. Cracked conch, 

conch fritters, fried fish. Open daily 11 AM to 10 PM. 

Coyaba Restaurant — Caribbean Paradise Inn. Tel: 946-5186. 

Contemporary Caribbean gourmet cuisine in a private tropical 

garden setting. Extensive wine list. Dinner nightly from 6 to 10 

PM. Closed Tuesday. Reservations recommended. 

Crackpot Kitchen — Ports of Call. Tel: 2313336. Experience 

the best of authentic Turks & Caicos and Caribbean cuisines 

with local celebrity Chef Nik. Open daily 5 to 10 PM except 

Thursday; Happy Hour 5 to 7 PM. 

Da Conch Shack & RumBar — Blue Hills. Tel: 946-8877. 

Island-fresh seafood from the ocean to your plate. Covered 

beachfront dining for lunch and dinner daily from 11 AM. 

Danny Buoy’s — Grace Bay Road. Tel: 946-5921. Traditional 

American pub fare; imported draught beers. Open for lunch and 

dinner daily from 11 AM. Happy Hour specials. Large screen TVs 

for sporting events. Karaoke. 

The Deck — Seven Stars Resort. Tel: 941-7777. All day dining 

and cocktails by the water’s edge. Open daily 11 AM to 11 PM. 

Live music Friday nights. 

Drift — West Bay Club. Tel: 946-8550. Open-air beachfront dining. 

Creatively used local ingredients. Full bar. Open daily. 

Dune — Windsong Resort. Tel: 333-7700. Private beachfront 

dining with limited availability. Fresh fare prepared to perfection. 

Open daily. 

El Catador Tapas & Bar — Regent Village. Tel: 244-1134. 

Authentic Spanish tapas with a wide mix of cold and hot plates 

meant for sharing. Fun and lively atmosphere. Open daily from 

5 PM. 

Element — LeVele Plaza. Tel: 348-6424. Contemporary, creative 

cuisine in an elegant setting. Open for dinner Friday to 

Wednesday 6:30 to 10:30 PM. 

Fairways Bar & Grill — Provo Golf Club. Tel: 946-5833. Dine 

overlooking the “greens.” Open for breakfast and lunch from 7 

AM to 4 PM daily; Friday, Saturday and Sunday open until 8 PM. 

Great Sunday brunch 9 AM to 3 PM. 

Fire & Ice — Blue Haven Resort & Marina. Tel: 946-9900. 

Drinks at the Ice Bar, dessert by the fire pits. South Americanmeets-Caribbean 

flavors and spices. Open daily 5:30 to 9:30 

PM. Closed Wednesday. 

Fresh Bakery & Bistro — Atrium Resort. Tel: 345-4745. 

Healthy European salads, soups, sandwiches, bakery, pies and 

cakes. Gelato. Open daily 7 AM to 6 PM, closed Sunday. 

Fresh Catch — Salt Mills Plaza. Tel: 243-3167. Authentic native 

cuisine, from seafood to souse. All-you-can-eat seafood buffet 

on Wednesday. Open daily 8 AM to 10 PM. Closed Sunday. 

Carry-out available. 

Garam Masala — Regent Village. Tel: 941-3292. Authentic 

Indian cuisine, tandoori charcoal-oven specialties. Open daily 

11:30 AM to 3 PM, 5:30 to 10 PM. Dine-in, take-out or delivery. 

Giggles Ice Cream & Candy Parlour — Ports of Call & 

Williams Storage. Tel: 941-7370. Cones, sundaes, shakes, 

smoothies, “Gigglers,” ice cream pies and cakes. Pick ‘n’ mix 

candies. Open daily 11 AM to 10 PM. 

Gilley’s Sky Lounge & Bar — At the airport. Tel: 946-4472. 

Burgers, sandwiches, local food. Open daily 6 AM to 9 PM. 

Grace’s Cottage — Point Grace Resort. Tel: 946-5096. Refined 

new menu in the style of a tastefully sophisticated French bistro. 

Serving dinner from 6 to 10 PM nightly. 

Grill Rouge — Grace Bay Club. Tel: 946-5050. Al fresco bistro. 

Diverse menu. Fun cocktails. Open daily for lunch Noon to 3 PM, 

dinner to 9 PM. 

Hemingways on the Beach — The Sands at Grace Bay. Tel: 

941-8408. Casual beachfront bar and restaurant. Fresh fish, 

pasta, sandwiches, salads and tropical drinks by the pool. 

Oceanfront deck for great sunsets! Open 8 AM to 10 PM daily. 

80 www.timespub.tc

Hole in the Wall Restaurant & Bar — Williams Plaza, Old 

Airport Road. Tel: 941-4136. Authentic Jamaican/Island cuisine 

where the locals go. Full bar. A/C dining or outdoors on the 

deck. Open daily 7 AM to 9 PM. Pick-up/delivery available. 

Infiniti Restaurant & Raw Bar — Grace Bay Club. Tel: 946- 

5050. Elegant beachfront dining for lunch and dinner. Gourmet 

Euro/Caribbean cuisine; fine wines. Full bar and lounge. 

Reservations required. 

Island Raw — Le Petite Plaza. Tel: 346-5371. Vegan lifestyle 

kitchen, offering fresh, organic, raw, vegan, gourmet. Open 

Friday, Noon to 2 PM. 

Island Conch Bar & Grill — Bight Cultural Market. Tel: 946- 

8389. Caribbean and local cuisine. Open daily 11 AM to 9 PM. 

Island Scoop — Grace Bay Plaza. Tel: 242-8511/243-5051. 

21 flavors of ice cream made locally. Cones, smoothies, blizzards 

and shakes. Open daily, 11 AM to 10 PM. 

The Java Bar — Graceway Gourmet. Tel: 941-5000. Gourmet 

café serving fresh baked desserts, sandwiches and coffee 

delights. Open 7 AM to 8 PM daily. 

Jack’s Fountain — Across from Casablanca Casino. Tel: 946- 

5225. Seafood, steak, unique specialty items in a lively, relaxed 

“beach bar” atmosphere. Open 7 AM to 10 PM daily. 

Kalooki’s Grace Bay — Le Vele Plaza. Tel: 941-8388. The perfect 

mix of sweet and spicy Caribbean flavors. New location in 

Grace Bay. Open daily 11 AM to 10 PM. Closed Thursday. 

Kitchen 218 — Beach House, Lower Bight Road. Tel: 946-5800. 

Caribbean cuisine with hints of French and Asian fusion and the 

chef’s passion for fresh ingredients. Open 8 AM to 10 PM daily. 

The Landing Bar & Kitchen — Grace Bay Road across from 

Regent Village. Tel: 341-5856. Unique nautical setting for dinner 

under the stars. Cocktails, fire pit. Open daily except Tuesday 

5:30 to 10 PM. 

Las Brisas — Neptune Villas, Chalk Sound. Tel: 946-5306. 

Mediterranean/Caribbean cuisine with tapas, wine and full bar. 

Terrace and gazebo dining overlooking Chalk Sound. Open daily 

8 AM to 10 PM. Take-out available; private parties. 

Le Bouchon du Village — Regent Village. Tel: 946-5234. A 

taste of Paris. Sidewalk café with sandwiches, salads, tartines, 

tapas, dinner specials, wine, cheese, dessert, coffees. Open 

daily 11 AM. Closed Sunday. 

Le Comptoir Francais — Regent Village. Tel: 946-5234. 

French deli, bakery, wine shop. Open daily. 

Lemon 2 Go Coffee — Ventura House. Tel: 941-4069. 

Gourmet coffeehouse. Sandwiches, muffins, cookies, croissants, 

yogurt, salads. Open Monday to Saturday 7:30 AM to 7 PM, 

Sunday 9 AM to 1 PM. 

The Lounge — Grace Bay Club. Tel: 946-5050. Decidedly hip 

lounge. Caribbean-infused tapas, martinis, tropical cocktails, 

world music and the finest sunset location in Providenciales. 

Lupo — Regent Village. Tel: 431-5876. Authentic Italian “comfort 

food.” Regional wine list. Dine in or take out ready-made 

gourmet meals. Open daily Noon to 3 PM; 5:45 to 9:45 PM. 

Magnolia Restaurant & Wine Bar — Miramar Resort. Tel: 

941-5108. International cuisine with island flavors, north shore 

views. Open for dinner from 6 to 9:30 PM except Monday. 

Mango Reef — Turtle Cove. Tel: 946-8200. Fresh local flavors 

and seafood, homemade desserts. Open daily 11 AM to 10 PM. 

Set price dinner on weekdays. Waterside deck, indoor or patio 

dining. Tie-up to dock at Turtle Cove Marina. 

Market Café — Blue Haven Resort. Tel: 946-9900. Gourmet 

coffees, teas, frozen drinks; fresh breads and pastries; grab ‘n’ 

go salads, sandwiches, smoothies. Open daily 7 AM to 8 PM. 

Mother’s Pizza — Downtown Times Square. Tel: 941-4142. 

Best pizza in the Turks & Caicos, available by the slice or the 

island’s biggest “large.” Open daily 11 AM to 9 PM; to 10 PM on 

Friday and Saturday; Noon to 8 PM on Sunday. 

Mr. Groupers — Lower Bight and Sunset Ridge Hotel (near airport). 

Tel: 242-6780. Serving fresh local seafood straight from 

the sea. Open daily 10 AM to 10:30 PM, Sunday 3 to 11 PM. 

Opus Wine • Bar • Grill — Ocean Club Plaza. Tel: 946-5885. 

International menu with Caribbean flair. Fresh seafood. Serving 

dinner nightly 6 to 10 PM. Indoor/outdoor dining. Conference 

facility, events, catering. 

Outback Steakhouse TCI — Regent Village. Unbeatable 

steak cuts complemented by chicken, ribs, seafood, and pasta. 

Generous portions, moderately priced, casual atmosphere. Open 

Monday to Thursday 3 to 11 PM; Friday to Midnight; Saturday 1 

PM to Midnight; Sunday 1 to 11 PM. 

Parallel23 — The Palms Turks & Caicos. Tel: 946-8666. Pantropical 

cuisine in a setting of casual elegance. Boutique wine 

list. Al fresco or private dining room available. Open daily 6 to 

10:30 PM. 

The Patty Place — Behind Shining Stars; Le Petit Place, Blue 

Hills. Tel: 246-9000. Authentic Jamaican patties and loaves. 18 

flavors of Devon House ice cream. Open daily 9:30 AM to 10 PM. 

Pavilion — The Somerset. Tel: 339-5900. Chef Brad offers a 

global palate, interpreted locally. Seafood raw bar. Open daily 

for breakfast, lunch, dinner; Sunday Prime Rib special. 

Pelican Bay Restaurant & Bar — Royal West Indies Resort. 

Tel: 941-2365/431-9101. Poolside restaurant and bar with 

Caribbean, French and Asian fare. Breakfast, lunch, dinner daily 

from 7:30 AM to 10 PM. Special events each week. 

Pepper Town Café — Digicel Cinema, #4. Tel: 246-9237. 

Native and Caribbean Dishes. Open daily except Sunday 11:30 

AM to 7 PM. Island breakfast on Saturday at 7 AM. 

Pizza Pizza — Grace Bay Plaza/Cinema Plaza. Tel: 941- 

8010/941-3577. New York style specialty pizzas. Open daily 

11:30 AM to 9:30 PM, weekends until 10 PM. Free delivery. 

Provence — Le Vele Plaza. Tel: 946-4124. Traditional French 

artisan-style cuisine. Fresh pasta, gelato, cheeses, charcuterie, 

pastries, desserts. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. 

Retreat Kitchen Vegetarian Café & Juice Bar — Ports of 

Call. Tel: 432-2485. Fresh, organic, vegan, vegetarian, gluten-free 

fare. Fresh juices, daily lunch specials. Open for lunch 

Monday to Saturday, 9 AM to 3 PM. Delivery available. 

Rickie’s Flamingo Café — Between Ocean Club and Club Med. 

Tel: 244-3231. Local fare and atmosphere right on the beach. 

Best grouper sandwich and rum punch! Don’t miss Curry Fridays 

and Beach BBQ Saturdays. 

Salt Bar & Grill — Blue Haven Resort & Marina. Tel: 946-9900. 

Outdoor seating overlooking the marina. Sandwiches, burgers, 

salads, classic bar favorites. Open daily 11:30 AM to 9:30 PM. 

Seven — Seven Stars Resort. Tel: 339-7777. Elevated contemporary 

cuisine fused with TCI tradition. Open Monday to Saturday, 

5:30 to 9:30 PM. 

72ºWest — The Palms Turks & Caicos. Tel: 946-8666. 

Beachside dining with a family-friendly, Caribbean-inspired 

menu. Serving lunch daily; dinner seasonally. 

Sharkbite Bar & Grill — Admiral’s Club at Turtle Cove. Tel: 

941-5090. Varied menu; casual dining. Sports bar/slots. Open 

daily from 11 AM to 2 AM. 

Shay Café — Le Vele Plaza. Tel: 331-6349. Offering organic 


coffees, teas, sandwiches, salads, soup, pastries, gelato, sorbetto, 

smoothies, beer and wine. Open daily 7 AM to 7 PM. 

Simone’s Bar & Grill — La Vista Azul. Tel: 331-3031. Serving 

fresh seafood and local cuisine. Open daily 11 AM to 11 PM; 

weekends 7 AM to 11 PM. Popular bar! 

Skull Rock Cantina — Ports of Call. Tel: 941-4173. The place 

for Tex-Mex; daily drink specials. Open daily, 8 AM to Midnight. 

Solana! Restaurant — Ocean Club West. Tel: 946-5254. 

Oceanfront dining from sushi to burgers. Teppanyaki and Sushi 

Bar, engage with the chefs. Open daily 7:30 AM to 10 PM. 

Somewhere Café & Lounge — Coral Gardens Resort. Tel: 

941-8260. Casual dining with Tex-Mex flair right on the beach. 

Cocktails, beers, specialty drinks. Open early to late daily. 

Stelle — Gansevoort Turks + Caicos. Tel: 232-4444. Modern 

Mediterranean cuisine featuring fresh fish and seafood. Open 6 

to 10 PM daily, until 2 AM on Friday with DJ. 

Sui-Ren — The Shore Club. Tel: 339-8000. Inspired flavors of 

Peruvian-Japanese fusion cuisine with fresh seafood and organic 

produce in a unique setting. Open daily. 

Thai Orchid — The Regent Village. Tel: 946-4491. Authentic 

Thai cuisine; over 60 choices! Dine in or carry out. Open for 

lunch and dinner daily. 

Three Brothers Restaurant — Town Center Mall, Downtown. 

Tel: 232-4736. Seafood and native cuisine. Tuesday night buffet 

dinner. Catering services. Open daily, 7 AM to 10 PM. 

Tiki Hut Island Eatery — Dockside at Turtle Cove Inn. Tel: 

941-5341. Imaginative sandwiches, salads, seafood, Black 

Angus beef, pasta, pizzas, fish. Open daily 11 AM to 10 PM. 

Turkberry Frozen Yogurt — The Saltmills. Tel: 431-2233. 

Frozen yogurt in a variety of flavors, with a large selection of 

toppings. Custom donut bar. Open 11 AM to 11 PM daily. 

Turks Kebab — At Craft Market on Sand Castle Drive. Tel: 431- 

9964. Turkish and Mediterranean fare. Salads, falafel, gyros, 

kebabs, hummus. Open for lunch and dinner. 

Via Veneto — Ports of Call. Tel: 941-2372. Authentic Italian 

dining in a stylish indoor/outdoor venue. Open from 5:30 PM to 

late. Closed Thursday. Saturday is Pizza Night! 

The Vix Asian Bistro & Grill — Regent Village. Tel: 941-4144. 

Contemporary Asian menu with a wok station, dim sum, vegan 

specialties and keto dishes. Open daily 7:30 AM to 3 PM; 5 to 

9:45 PM. Delivery to select locations. Catering menus. 

Yoshi’s Sushi & Grill — The Saltmills. Tel: 941-3374/431- 

0012. Sushi bar menu plus Japanese cuisine. Open daily Noon 

to 3 PM; 6 to 10 PM. Closed Sunday. Dine indoors or out. Carry 

out available. 

Zest! — Gansevoort Turks + Caicos. Tel: 232-4444. Lunch and 

dinner beachfront. Taste of the Caribbean and Americas. Open 

daily Noon to 5 PM; 6 to 9 PM. Fisherman’s night Wednesday. a 

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PROUDLY SERVING THE ENERGY NEEDS OF THE 

TURKS & CAICOS ISLANDS 

Our Executive Team 

At FortisTCI, we are committed to 

providing safe, reliable energy to 

fuel the growth of our islands and 

meet the needs of our customers. 

Eddinton Powell 

President & CEO 

Ruth Forbes 

Senior Vice President of 

Corporate Services & CFO 

Devon Cox 

Senior Vice President of 

Operations 

And, as the energy landscape 

changes, FortisTCI will be here, 

delivering even more energy 

solutions and building a sustainable 

energy future for the Turks and 

Caicos Islands. 

Nigel Hosein 

VP of Energy Production & 

Project Management 

Rachell Roullet 

VP of Technology, Innovation 

& Strategic Planning 

Allan Robinson 

VP of Grand Turk & Sister 

Island Operations 

www.fortistci.com | 649-946-4313 |

LIVE WATERFRONT 

The Residence 

Parrot Cay 

THE FINEST COLLECTION 

Condominium | Home & Villa | Land | New Development 

649.946.4474 | info@tcsothebysrealty.com | turksandcaicosSIR.com 

Venture House, Grace Bay | Resort Locations: Grace Bay Club and The Palms 

Each Sotheby’s International Realty® office is independently owned and operated.

Times of the Islands Summer 2019

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