Eatdrink #78 July/August 2019

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario since 2007

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario since 2007


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eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Issue Magazine <strong>#78</strong> | <strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink<br />

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 1<br />

Global Cuisine Takes Flight<br />

Katana Kafé<br />

& Grill in London<br />


A Guide to Bayfield<br />

What, Where, and Why<br />

Stratford Next-Gen Chefs<br />

Inspired, and Inspiring<br />

Exploring Essex County<br />

It’s Worth Another Visit<br />

Serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario since 2007<br />


2 | <strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Stratford’s<br />

#nextgen chefs are here<br />


<strong>July</strong> 19 TH – <strong>August</strong> 11 TH <strong>2019</strong>

4 | <strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink<br />

<br />

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

eatdrinkmagazine<br />

@eatdrinkmag<br />

eatdrinkmag<br />

eatdrink.ca<br />

Think Global. Read Local.<br />

Publisher<br />

Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca<br />

Managing Editor Cecilia Buy – cbuy@eatdrink.ca<br />

Food Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca<br />

Copy Editor Kym Wolfe<br />

Social Media Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca<br />

Advertising Sales Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca<br />

Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca<br />

Stacey McDonald – stacey@eatdrink.ca<br />

Terry-Lynn “TL” Sim – TL@eatdrink.ca<br />

Finances<br />

Ann Cormier – finance@eatdrink.ca<br />

Graphics<br />

Chris McDonell, Cecilia Buy<br />

Writers<br />

Jane Antoniak, Gerry Blackwell,<br />

Tanya Chopp, Gary Killops,<br />

Bryan Lavery, George Macke,<br />

Linda Olaveson, Sue Sutherland Wood<br />

Photographers Terry Manzo, Doug North<br />

Telephone & Fax 519-434-8349<br />

Mailing Address 525 Huron Street, London ON N5Y 4J6<br />

Website<br />

City Media, Cecilia Buy<br />

Social Media Mind Your Own Business<br />

Printing<br />

Sportswood Printing<br />


Many of the staff<br />

from London’s<br />

Katana Kafé & Grill<br />

strike a pose on<br />

a Diamond Flight<br />

Centre exit runway<br />

just outside the<br />

restaurant’s patio.<br />

Photo by Tony Boros.<br />

© <strong>2019</strong> <strong>Eatdrink</strong> Inc. and the writers.<br />

All rights reserved.<br />

Reproduction or duplication of any material published in <strong>Eatdrink</strong><br />

or on <strong>Eatdrink</strong>.ca is strictly prohibited without the written permission<br />

of the Publisher. <strong>Eatdrink</strong> has a printed circulation of 20,000<br />

issues published six times annually in each of two markets, for a total<br />

of 240,000 copies in print. The views or opinions expressed in the<br />

information, content and/or advertisements published in <strong>Eatdrink</strong><br />

or online are solely those of the author(s) and do not necessarily<br />

represent those of the Publisher. The Publisher welcomes submissions<br />

but accepts no responsibility for unsolicited material.<br />

Serving up<br />

Great<br />

partnerships<br />

commercial | digital | wide format | design<br />

Let us help with your next project...<br />

519.866.5558 | ben@sportswood.on.ca<br />


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine March/April <strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 5<br />


SUNDAY<br />

JUNE 30–SEPT. 1<br />

Food Trucks • Vendors<br />

Live Music • Craft Beer<br />

Rescues • Vendors<br />

Craft Beer • Food

6 | <strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Contents<br />

Issue <strong>#78</strong> | <strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

Publisher’s Notes<br />

The Summer Issue<br />

Enjoying a Most Wonderful<br />

Time of the Year<br />


8<br />

10<br />

Beer<br />

Season of Fruitfulness<br />

Summer Beers with a<br />

Little Extra Flavour<br />


37<br />

Food Writer at Large<br />

Stratford Next-Gen Chefs<br />

Inspired, and Inspiring<br />


10<br />

Restaurants<br />

Global Cuisine Takes Flight<br />

Katana Kafé & Grill, in London<br />


18<br />

Spotlight<br />

A Guide to Bayfield<br />

What, Where, and Why<br />


21<br />

New Hotspots<br />

Four Noteworthy Additions<br />


26<br />

Road Trips<br />

Exploring Essex County<br />

It’s Worth Another Visit<br />


28<br />

18<br />

21<br />

26<br />

28<br />

28<br />

56<br />

Wine<br />

Discover Ontario Gewürtztraminer<br />

Style? Versatile!<br />


40<br />

The BUZZ<br />

Culinary Community Notes<br />

New and Notable<br />

44<br />

Music<br />

The Sounds of Summer<br />

Festival Season is Here<br />


56<br />

Theatre<br />

This Summer’s Theatre<br />

Thought-Provoking, Cringe-Inducing,<br />

and Funny<br />


59<br />

The Lighter Side<br />

Not Today’s White Bread<br />


62<br />

59<br />

37<br />


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 7<br />



Come & sample our<br />

New Seasonal Menu!<br />


519-430-6414<br />

/Blakes2ndFloor<br />


8 | <strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

Publisher’s Notes<br />

The Summer Issue<br />

Enjoying a Most Wonderful Time of the Year<br />


eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

It’s hard to believe that summer is actually<br />

here after such a reticent spring season,<br />

but I must remind you to grab every<br />

moment of this glorious time of the year<br />

with gusto. Actually, this issue does that, in<br />

spades. Each story encourages exploration<br />

in ways that we’re sure will enhance your<br />

appreciation of the season and our local<br />

culture. As usual, our emphasis is on all things<br />

culinary, but music and theatre are also firmly<br />

linked to dining and a drink for many of us.<br />

You will see those connections here.<br />

Feeling a little footloose? For a trip just a<br />

little “out there,” check out Tanya Chopp’s<br />

profile of Katana Kafé out by the London<br />

International Airport. Bryan Lavery takes<br />

us along to explore the myriad charms of<br />

Bayfield. He also introduces us to many of<br />

Stratford’s “next-gen” chefs, and with Stratford<br />

Summer Music along with Stratford Festival<br />

in full stride, I imagine many of you will head<br />

that way soon. Sue Sutherland-Wood took a<br />

journey into Essex County and we were almost<br />

overwhelmed by the number of gems she found<br />

just along the Kingsville-to-Amherstburg route.<br />

These stories are just some of the highlights of<br />

an issue jammed with summer ideas.<br />

Enjoy!<br />

London’s Best BBQ!<br />

Summer BBQ Nights combines Idlewyld fine cuisine with the<br />

pleasures of dining in our intimate Courtyard Patio. The fun<br />

starts every Wednesday and Thursday from 5:30 to 8:30pm!<br />

Our menu includes Dry Rub Seasoned 8oz Striploin, Pirri Pirri<br />

Marinated Atlantic Salmon, Jerk Marinated Half Cornish Hen,<br />

Fire Roasted Pineapple Chutney, Bone-in Pork Loin Chop or<br />

Quinoa Stuffed Poblano Pepper. We have a selection of cold<br />

salads, made from fresh, local ingredients and a Dessert<br />

Table with various cakes, pies and fresh fruit.<br />

$44 .95<br />

+ HST<br />

per person<br />

Call today to reserve your table!<br />

36 Grand Ave, London • 519.432.5554 • www.idlewyldinn.com

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Learn. Teach. Empower.<br />

<strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 9<br />

Train to become a Holistic Nutritional Consultant<br />

Natural Nutrition Diploma Program<br />

(offered full-time and part-time)<br />

and<br />

Holistic Culinary Certificate Workshops<br />

CSNN has over 9,000+<br />

graduates worldwide! Discover<br />

the range of knowledge of select<br />

graduates, and how they are<br />

making an impact in the health<br />

care industry and beyond:<br />

csnn.ca/about/alumni-profiles<br />

A CSNN graduate is a professional trained in Natural Nutrition,<br />

whose principal function is to educate individuals and groups about<br />

the benefits and health impact of optimal nutrition.<br />

Holistic Nutrition professionals work in private practice or with other health<br />

care professionals and find careers in a variety of sectors, including:<br />

• Food Industry • Fitness/Training Centres • Writing Books and Articles<br />

• Teaching/ Education • Natural Health Centres and Spas<br />

• Medical & Wellness Clinics • Health Food Stores<br />

• Conference and Retreat Centres • Seniors’ and Retirement Homes<br />

• Consulting Services • Supplement Industry<br />

Canadian School of Natural Nutrition | London Branch<br />

747 Hyde Park Road, Suite 108, London ON<br />

519.936.1610<br />

csnn.ca/london @CSNN_London CSNN London CSNNLondon<br />


10 | <strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Food Writer at Large<br />

Stratford Next-Gen Chefs<br />

Inspired, and Inspiring<br />


The modern gastro movement<br />

began nearly twenty years ago in<br />

some of the world’s top kitchens.<br />

Groundbreaking<br />

technical applications to<br />

cuisine by boundary-pushing<br />

visionaries Ferran Adria,<br />

René Redzepi, Grant Achatz,<br />

and Heston Blumenthal<br />

revolutionized and scandalized<br />

the culinary world. Enthusiasm<br />

for a new Modernist Cuisine<br />

was based on a philosophical<br />

understanding of food science<br />

and gastronomy. Success<br />

came using non-traditional<br />

ingredients and experimental<br />

methods rooted in technical<br />

innovations and multiple<br />

scientific disciplines.<br />

Restaurateur David<br />

Chang of Momofuku Noodle<br />

Bar was working on what<br />

Redzepi, in The Noma Guide to<br />

Fermentation, calls a “parallel<br />

track,” introducing the concept<br />

of microbial terroir, the hidden<br />

world of mould, yeast and<br />

bacteria for fermentation. And<br />

of course there was chef, writer<br />

and travel documentarian<br />

Anthony Bourdain, with a laser<br />

focus on global culture, cuisine<br />

and the human condition. He<br />

remains a powerful influence<br />

for next generation chefs (nextgen<br />

chefs.)<br />

At the former Church<br />

Restaurant in Stratford, a dozen<br />

or so years ago, Chef Amédé<br />

Lamarche introduced molecular gastronomy<br />

on his tasting menus to both excitement<br />

and collective head scratching. Lamarche,<br />

Coordinator of Culinary Programs at Conestoga<br />

College and an uncompromising trailblazer,<br />

continues to be been instrumental in educating<br />

the next generation of chef<br />

visionaries.<br />

Speaking of pioneering<br />

innovators, I recently caught<br />

up with Chef Danijel “Dacha”<br />

Markovic at the Terroir <strong>2019</strong><br />

Symposium in Toronto.<br />

Markovic (a chef’s chef)<br />

left London’s former iconic<br />

Black George Restaurant<br />

Ryan O’Donnell<br />

Meaghan Evely<br />

Jeremy Hayton<br />

and went on to work as an<br />

“extreme bush cook,” then<br />

worked alongside Chef Jason<br />

Bangerter at Langdon Hall.<br />

Now entrenched at Fogo<br />

Island Inn beside Executive<br />

Chef Jonathan Gushue, he<br />

utilizes ingredients dictated<br />

by the Island’s “still-wild”<br />

terrain to produce dishes<br />

grounded and articulated in<br />

the seasons and terroir.<br />

Cutting-edge chefs<br />

advancing the concept of<br />

modernist cuisine in our<br />

neck of the woods include<br />

Stratford’s Arron Carley<br />

of The Bruce Hotel. Carley<br />

defines and interprets “New<br />

Canadiana” on his terms<br />

rather than emulating<br />

mentors like René Redzepi of<br />

Noma, where he once staged.<br />

Chef Kris Schlotzhauer<br />

burnished his name and<br />

reputation at Toronto’s<br />

Enoteca Sociale before<br />

returning to Stratford a few years ago. As a<br />

vocal champion for fair working hours and pay<br />

he opened Stratford’s AO Pasta on Erie Street,

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

where he calls his<br />

own shots and<br />

makes work/life<br />

balance a priority.<br />

This year,<br />

Stratford Tourism<br />

Alliance celebrates<br />

next-gen chefs<br />

in the annual<br />

Stratford Culinary<br />

Heather MacArthur guide, a go-to staple<br />

source of insider<br />

information.<br />

The 25th edition was launched at a pop-up<br />

at Richmond Station in Toronto, owned<br />

by Stratford Chefs School graduates and<br />

partners, Ryan Donovan and Carl Heinrich.<br />

We caught up with Stratford Chefs School<br />

alumni chefs Jamie Crosby of The Prune,<br />

Meaghan Evely and Vincent Stacey from Pazzo<br />

Taverna & Pizzeria, and Ryan McDonnell<br />

of Mercer Hall. The <strong>2019</strong> guide celebrates<br />

twelve next-gens in photos by photographer<br />

and alumnus Terry Manzo. The print version<br />

features owner Trena Hough of The Pulp<br />

Fresh Bar, Suzie Svetlana Christensen and<br />

“A fun place to shop<br />

for housewares and gifts!”<br />

Fresh summer<br />

patterns for your<br />

kitchen & dining<br />

WATSON’S<br />


84 Ontario St. Stratford<br />

watsonsofstratford.com<br />


12 | <strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

Dee Christensen of Planet Diner, Kitchen<br />

Manager Jill Thorpe of York<br />

Street Kitchen, owner Heather<br />

McArthur of Grounded, and<br />

Loreena Miller (formerly of<br />

Revival House).<br />

One of Stratford Tourism’s<br />

featured next-gen chefs<br />

is Windsor Hospitality<br />

Group’s Executive Chef Ryan<br />

O’Donnell. He works hard<br />

to incorporate the farm-totable<br />

ideals espoused by the<br />

Stratford Chefs School while<br />

creating synergies for the<br />

culinary teams at The Prune,<br />

Bar One Fifty One, Mercer<br />

Kitchen and York Street<br />

Kitchen. O’Donnell’s clever<br />

menus feature locally-procured<br />

products from in and around<br />

Stratford, reflecting his focus<br />

and passion and a dedicated<br />

vision to building community<br />

in Stratford and beyond.<br />

Jamie Crosby leads the<br />

culinary team at The Prune as chef de cuisine.<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Raised in rural Huron County, Crosby worked<br />

at Eigensinn Farm and Haisai<br />

for Chef Michael Stadtländer<br />

in 2013, and did a threemonth<br />

Stage at Noma in<br />

2014 before taking over as<br />

chef at The Little Inn of<br />

Bayfield in 2015.<br />

Another featured chef is<br />

Jeremy Hayton of Stratford’s<br />

Mill Stone, who literally<br />

walked through the kitchen<br />

Suzi Christensen door to assist on a busy night<br />

and never looked back. Three<br />

years later he is a staunch<br />

proponent of sourcing<br />

Trina Hough<br />

ingredients locally and has<br />

introduced his new-found<br />

passions for a late-night<br />

Laotian menu, a MexiLao<br />

menu and an all-day taco<br />

menu.<br />

Recently, listening to chef<br />

panellists at the Culinary<br />

Confederation Annual<br />

Conference in Niagara<br />

Falls, I was reminded of the many types of<br />

Globally inspired; locally sourced.<br />

An eclectic array of tapas, tacos, & plates;<br />

featuring a pre-theatre prix fixe dinner menu.<br />

Local craft beer & wine,<br />

unique cocktails & margaritas.<br />

(519)273.5886<br />

themillstone.ca<br />

Every Saturday<br />

10pm - 2am<br />

30 Ontario St, Stratford, ON<br />


Laotian cuisine alongside<br />

regionally-inspired cocktails<br />

@ latenightlao<br />


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

A WORLD OF<br />



<strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 13<br />

Céline Peterson<br />

Presents Nat Cole:<br />

A King’s Centennial<br />

<strong>August</strong> 5th<br />

John MacLeod’s Rex<br />

Hotel Orchestra<br />

<strong>August</strong> 18th<br />

The Brothers Creeggan,<br />

A Great Gathering<br />

<strong>July</strong> 24th<br />

Laila Biali<br />

<strong>July</strong> 31st<br />

Cannabis<br />

Cantata<br />

<strong>August</strong> 1st<br />

Payadora<br />

<strong>July</strong> 29th<br />

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eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Spend time sampling over 50 of<br />

the freshest and finest extra virgin<br />

olive oils and aged balsamic<br />

vinegars... pairings such<br />

as cranberry pear balsamic<br />

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intergenerational dynamics relating to kitchen<br />

disciplines. The next-gens tend to avoid the<br />

negative old school attitudes and habits that<br />

were present in some kitchens: misogyny,<br />

homophobia, excessive hours of labour, and lack<br />

of work/life balance.<br />

With advances in POS terminals, online<br />

reservation systems, handheld server tablets,<br />

touchscreen terminals, kitchen display<br />

screens and inventory control, have come<br />

innovative and state-of-the-art kitchen<br />

tools and techniques that came into the<br />

forefront when the methods of molecular<br />

gastronomy and modernist cuisine became<br />

viable concepts. Until recently there were no<br />

reverse spherification or sodium alginate to<br />

turn liquids into stable edible spheres. There<br />

were no vacuum chamber sealers, smoking gun<br />

infusers, refractometers, high-precision digital<br />

thermometers, culinary torches or Instagram<br />

accounts to document everything. There<br />

wasn’t the ubiquity of producer-only farmers’<br />

markets or farmers selling their goods directly<br />

to chefs. The farm-to-table and the local food<br />

movements were not mainstream.<br />

Chef Randi Rudner graduated from the<br />

Stratford Chefs School in 2012, worked at<br />


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Rundles for six years, at Pazzo Taverna, and<br />

this season she will be at The Prune alongside<br />

Chef Jamie Crosby. Currently Rudner is the<br />

Program Manager and a core instructor at<br />

Stratford Chefs School. Wondering about<br />

the impact that emerging chefs have on the<br />

culinary scene in Stratford, I emailed Rudner<br />

who replied, “I think that the biggest impact<br />

that emerging chefs have had on the culinary<br />

scene in Stratford is a strong interest in<br />

collaboration, rather than competition. The<br />

young chefs<br />

working in<br />

Stratford<br />

today eat at<br />

each other’s<br />

restaurants,<br />

help at each<br />

other’s events,<br />

and share<br />

equipment<br />

(and sometimes<br />

supplies).<br />

As a result,<br />

the hospitality<br />

Randi Rudner industry in<br />

Stratford has<br />

<strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 15<br />

Stratford ‘Stinks’ – but only once a year!<br />

September 7, 9am – 5pm<br />

September 8, 10am – 4pm<br />

Indoors at the Community Hall<br />

Stratford Rotary Complex<br />

353 McCarthy Road, Stratford ON<br />

•<br />

Ontario Garlic & Artisan Market<br />

featuring over 70 vendors<br />

Exclusive Tastings<br />

pairing artisanal cheeses with wines,<br />

beer and spirits<br />

Cooking Demonstrations<br />

Educational Forums<br />

Live Entertainment<br />

Free parking and bike valet service<br />

Casual Family-Friendly Italian<br />

Eat In • Take Out • Patio<br />

Licensed<br />

Tuesday–Thursday 4:30–9:00<br />

Friday–Saturday 4:30–10:00<br />

38 Erie Street, Stratford<br />

519-305-3838<br />


16 | <strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Jill Thorpe<br />

Jamie Crosby<br />

Dee Christensen<br />

Fresh Local Ingredients<br />

Gluten Free & Vegetarian Options<br />

Great Selection of Craft Beer & Cider<br />

Tuesday–Saturday<br />

Lunch 11:30–2:00 & Dinner 4:45–8:45<br />

159 Queen Street, St. Marys ON<br />

519-914-8811<br />

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become more collegial, more creative, and<br />

more inclusive. This generation of chefs is<br />

highly concerned with the provenance of<br />

the product with which they work and how<br />

something is produced, and by whom. Part<br />

of this concern stems from an interest in<br />

environmental sustainability and a growing<br />

awareness of the devastating repercussions of<br />

many conventional food production practices.<br />

Part of it stems from a genuine interest in the<br />

wellbeing of the broader culinary community<br />

in which they find themselves, a community<br />

not just of chefs, but also of growers,<br />

producers, and eaters. Just as significantly,<br />

today’s chefs are eagerly exploring the idea<br />

of terroir in cuisine — that food can taste<br />

of a particular time and place, that it can<br />

tell their story, and the source of their raw<br />

ingredients is of fundamental importance to<br />

this perspective.”<br />

Rudner elaborated, “In a significant sense, the<br />

curriculum at Stratford Chefs School has always<br />

addressed many of the issues that this new generation<br />

of chefs finds important. In addition to<br />

strong technique, we focus on collaboration and<br />

teamwork. Through various projects and assignments<br />

our students reflect on their own stories<br />

and mine them for culinary inspiration, and we<br />


& GIFT SHOP<br />

Old Fashioned Sausage<br />

Smoked Pork Products<br />

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Large Selection of Gourmet Condiments<br />

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The Finest Local Poultry Products<br />

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#2146 Highway 7 & 8, Shakespeare ON<br />

519-625-8194<br />


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

examine<br />

Canadian<br />

gastronomy<br />

closely.<br />

Ingredient<br />

quality<br />

and ethical<br />

purchasing<br />

decisions are<br />

addressed in<br />

Kris Sholzhauer nearly every<br />

class. Our<br />

curriculum<br />

has evolved to include more in-depth instruction<br />

of equity in the workplace, worker’s<br />

rights, contemporary food movements, and<br />

food security, all of which are of increasing<br />

importance to emerging chefs.”<br />

BRYAN LAVERY, <strong>Eatdrink</strong> Food Editor and Writer at<br />

Large, brings years of professional experience in the<br />

restaurant and hospitality business, as a chef, restaurateur<br />

and partner in the Lavery Culinary Group, a culinary<br />

experience provider and media consulting business.<br />

TERRY MANZO is a highly respected Stratford-based<br />

photographer. www.terrymanzo.com<br />

Homestyle Cooking & Baking<br />

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Sample delicious local eats,<br />

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From farm to table, pork to pies<br />

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farm gates<br />

www.annamaes.ca<br />

519-595-4407<br />

4060 Line 72, Millbank ON<br />

Monday–Saturday<br />

7am–8pm<br />

Cash or Debit Accepted<br />

food shops<br />

Find us, follow us!<br />

#DiscoverMore #PerthCounty<br />

@PerthCoTourism<br />


18 | <strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Restaurants<br />

Global Cuisine Takes Flight<br />

Katana Kafé & Grill in London<br />


For those who are willing to travel,<br />

great rewards await. In the case of<br />

Katana Kafé & Grill, the good news is<br />

that you don’t have to travel too far.<br />

On the outskirts of London, nestled beside<br />

the roaring tarmack of London International<br />

Airport, lies a hidden gem that patrons may<br />

not wish for you to know about. The Katana<br />

Kafé & Grill has been a London fixture for well<br />

over a decade and in that time it’s managed to<br />

cultivate a loyal clientele, while also, somehow,<br />

still flying under the radar.<br />

Run by two red seal chefs, Jaime Peña and<br />

Executive Chef Chris Morrisson, Katana is<br />

everything you’d expect from a downtown<br />

establishment. But the distance from the city<br />

core has allowed them to dance to the beat to<br />

their own drum, without any need to ‘keep up<br />

with the Joneses.’<br />

“What attracted me to Katana was that it<br />

was completely unique,” says Chef Morrisson.<br />

“The menus were different, even back then.<br />

This is not your typical restaurant.”<br />

Doing their own thing has led to a menu<br />

that’s incredibly flexible for diners with all<br />

manner of tastes, including those with dietary<br />

restrictions.<br />

“When I was taught to cook, 10 to 15 years<br />

ago, it seemed as though everything got<br />

floured. But in the last five years I haven’t<br />

cooked with gluten intentionally,” says Chef<br />

Morrisson. “Instead, we try to use chickpea<br />

flours and rice flour, etcetera. Plus we’re<br />

focused on getting back to basics, and cooking<br />

like French cooks used to — using reductions<br />

to thicken sauces. So, many of our dishes end<br />

up being gluten-free from top to bottom.”<br />

“We bake all of our breads, and even make<br />

our own natural yeast. Our sourdough bread,<br />

while not gluten-free, is still made from our<br />

own starter. Sourdough is also known to be<br />

more gentle, as the fermentation process eats<br />

the gluten. The soup on our menu is always<br />

dairy-free, gluten-free and vegetarian, while<br />

Katana staff members, left to right, include : Jaime Pena, Krista White, Reta Coghill, Chris Morrisson,<br />

Ben Ferraro, Charlie Zucchero, Cameron Bonnyman, Chris Scott, and Heather McAllister.

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 19<br />

the soup-of-the-day may be cream-based,<br />

or include meat.” On a grander scale, as the<br />

menu changes for the season, the development<br />

process is exciting and collaborative.<br />

Culinary inspiration, client feedback and the<br />

team’s strong suits are all shared in equal<br />

measure.<br />

“When I do a menu, it’s like writing an<br />

album,” Chef Morrisson says. “For instance, I<br />

may think that this one will be ‘heavy,’ while<br />

the next one may be more ‘country.’ But, while<br />

I have ideas before I write the menu, [during<br />

the process] I’ll share what I’ve been thinking<br />

and say ‘let’s turn it into something more<br />

tangible or cohesive,’ between the two or three<br />

of us. We know we have to play to people’s<br />

strengths too. Two years ago we were doing<br />

steakhouse style menus, but now we’re doing<br />

contemporary global cuisine.”<br />

The end result will always be an eclectic<br />

mix, thanks in no small part to the diverse<br />

needs and interests of the clientele,<br />

who range from corporate lunch-goers<br />

to customers who fly in from around<br />

the region looking for high-end fare.<br />

“Over lunchtime, our Classic Reuben<br />

Sandwich (Montreal smoked meat with<br />

Swiss cheese, sauerkraut and 1000<br />

Island dressing on toasted marble rye)<br />

is a staple that will never go away, and<br />

now, neither will our Cubano (pulled<br />

pork, Virginia style ham, Swiss cheese,<br />

pickles and garlic dijonnaise served<br />

on a Vienna roll), the latter of which<br />

caused quite a bit of sadness in customers’<br />

eyes when we took it off the menu<br />

one season”, says Morrison<br />

“However, we’re also well-known for<br />

our steak and fish. Right now, our beef<br />

is sourced from a farm just outside of<br />

Prescott (north of Peterborough), and<br />

we get our lake trout (which is served<br />

with remoulade sauce, and lemon)<br />

from Manitoulin.”<br />

“Our burger is also pretty epic. I<br />

think everyone’s seen one of those<br />

shows where some host with bleach<br />

blonde spikey hair shows off burgers<br />

that have half a foot of dusted onions<br />

piled on, or a fried egg, and we thought<br />

‘we can do that.’ It was a bit scary at<br />

first to offer it on the menu, but we’ve<br />

found that there’s a market for it —<br />

and it’s always fun to see people’s faces<br />

when it comes out, or as they try to<br />

figure out how to eat it.”<br />

Executive Chef Chris Morrisson keeps it local — and inspired<br />

— with experience, teamwork, and a loyal clientele.<br />

Get up close — very close — and enjoy the views and<br />

the action from the patio.<br />

Relax in the dining room or at the bar, for breakfast, lunch or<br />

dinner. Or perhaps just a signature Aviation Cocktail.

20 | <strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

“Over the weekend, we also offer breakfast<br />

and it’s very popular. We have fresh jams, and<br />

create our hollandaise from scratch.”<br />

If none of these items pique your fancy, you<br />

may be interested to know that during the<br />

summer Katana also offers a themed patio<br />

menu. This year’s inspiration is Perch, Pizza,<br />

and Pinot.<br />

“As the name implies, we’ll be matching<br />

a few of our pinot grigios and pinot noirs to<br />

perch and pizzas,” Chef Morrisson says.<br />

Katana also has its own signature cocktail<br />

menu with various aviation-themed drinks:<br />

Runway (raspberry, Curaçao and 7 Up), Horizon<br />

(Malibu, cranberry and lemonade), and<br />

the Aviation Cocktail (Aviation gin, maraschino,<br />

and crème de violette), to name a few.<br />

As one last note — for those who are fascinated<br />

by everything aviation — the pinnacle<br />

of action occurs at Katana when Airshow<br />

London, the largest military air display in<br />

Canada, comes to town (September 13 to 15).<br />

For this special event, the restaurant plans a<br />

fixed-price, custom three-course menu, and<br />

offers customers the best seat in the house to<br />

view the planes landing and taking off. If the<br />

weather cooperates Katana also extends its<br />

patio, increasing the seating capacity to make<br />

more room for those who wish to sit outside.<br />

All-in-all, while Katana may be “far out,<br />

they like it that way” — and regardless of how<br />

you journey there — you’ll always be greeted<br />

with food and views that let you know you’ve<br />

arrived.<br />

Katana Kafé & Grill<br />

2530 Blair Blvd., London<br />

519-455-9005<br />

katanakafe.ca<br />

breakfast: sat & sun 9 am–12 pm<br />

lunch: mon & tues 11 am–3 pm<br />

wed–fri 11 pm–5 pm<br />

sat & sun 12 noon–3 pm<br />

dinner: wed–friday 5 pm–9 pm<br />

sat 5 pm–9 pm; sun 5 pm–8 pm<br />

TANYA CHOPP is a local writer and communications<br />

professional who enjoys exploring and writing on topics<br />

related to local food and culture, humour and fitness.<br />

Left, from top:<br />

Bread and Jam (from scratch)<br />

Perch Tacos;<br />

Neapolitan Style Pizza;<br />

Perch and Chips.

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 21<br />

Spotlight<br />

A Guide to Bayfield<br />

What, Where, and Why<br />


It’s been over thirty years since I became<br />

enamoured of Bayfield. Restaurateur/<br />

entrepreneur Tania Auger, of Sarnia’s<br />

Lola Lounge, had asked me to join her<br />

in opening the Shark Inn (formerly the Ritz<br />

Hotel — now the location of the rebuilt<br />

Virtual High School — on the main street<br />

across from The Little Inn).<br />

Tourism officials refer to this region as<br />

Ontario’s West Coast. There are two well-known<br />

inns located in this area. The 19th century<br />

The Little Inn of Bayfield is known for being<br />

Ontario’s oldest operating inn and for its fulllength<br />

double-deck verandahs. Beginning in<br />

the 1830s, the Inn was a stop for stagecoaches<br />

on the Sarnia to Goderich route. The other<br />

notable property is Benmiller Inn & Spa (a<br />

former woollen mill) located in a hollow beside<br />

the Maitland River, twenty minutes outside<br />

Bayfield. Benmiller’s contemporary rustic<br />

lodgings and its white-linen Ivey Dining Room<br />

retains a more buttoned-down ambience. Menus<br />

highlight old world classics like Chicken Duxelle,<br />

Maple-glazed Duck Breast or Metzger’s Seared<br />

Beef Tenderloin with Butter Poached Shrimp.<br />

On Highway 21, three minutes north of town,<br />

is the appealing Ashwood Inn, a revitalized<br />

22-room boutique property.<br />

On the wide, pedestrian-friendly, Main<br />

Street with its pea gravel pathways are historic<br />

yellow brick and clapboard buildings that are<br />

designated under the Ontario Heritage Act. In<br />

many ways the village nestled on the precipice<br />

of the sandy eastern shore of Lake Huron<br />

remains much as it was three decades ago.<br />

Bayfield can boast more than 20 stops for<br />

food enthusiasts, on the main street, the<br />

highway, and near the harbour. Local menus<br />

showcase dominant food trends including<br />

elevated street food. Fish and chips are de<br />

rigueur, but not all of the fish comes from<br />

Lake Huron. There are galleries, boutiques and<br />

one-of-a-kind shops. A favourite is Martha<br />

Beechie’s indie Village Bookshop, situated<br />

in a yellow clapboard house on Main Street<br />

where I recently spotted Ruth Reichl’s recent<br />

memoir, Save Me the Plums, about her days as<br />

editor of Gourmet magazine.<br />

The building which houses The Albion Hotel’s<br />

English-style pub was a store in the 1840s and<br />

became a hotel in 1856. Through the years we<br />

have made regular stops at The Albion for its<br />

inspired pub fare featuring in-house made<br />

gourmet burgers, BBQ platters and sixteen taps.<br />

Known for its extensive range of single malt<br />

whiskies and craft beer, Black Dog Village Pub<br />

and Bistro is located next door to The Albion<br />

in a circa-1850 general store, with the original<br />

Bayfield’s Main Street is home to an<br />

appealing number of independent<br />

businesses, including (right) The<br />

Village Bookshop.

22 | <strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

display windows. It is<br />

among the top tier of<br />

best sit-down places to<br />

eat and drink in Bayfield<br />

with well prepared and<br />

presented fare and all the<br />

attributes of an excellent<br />

gastropub. At Black<br />

Dog they understand<br />

hospitality and customer<br />

service. Burgers are a speciality here. At last<br />

count there were nine versions available. A<br />

Experience Hessenland Inn & Vineyard<br />

Where heritage is infused into every vine and vintage<br />

Join us for one of our<br />

Signature Events!<br />

• Long Table Vineyard Dinners<br />

• Mongolian Grill<br />

• Weddings, Conferences & Retreats<br />

• Novemberfest & MORE!<br />

Accommodations • Award-Winning Gardens • Private Beach Access<br />

Vineyard • Dining Room with European & Locally Inspired Fare<br />

Located steps from Lake Huron between Grand Bend & Bayfield<br />

Call 519-236-7707 or 866-543-7736<br />

hessen@hessenland.com • www.hessenland.com<br />

Reservations required for all events<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Walk up to the window for an ice cream,<br />

as you explore Bayfield’s Main Street<br />

deep bowl of bright tomato and red pepper<br />

soup was a recent hit. Expect such items as<br />

osso buco, bouillabaisse, flat iron steak and<br />

properly battered haddock served with fries<br />

on the dinner menu. We especially liked the<br />

listing of VQA wines and the selection from<br />

nearby Maelstrom and Dark Horse Estate<br />

wineries. We savoured piping hot coffee at the<br />

bar, sourced from the village’s Main Street indie<br />

coffee roaster Shopbike, and were entertained<br />

by the knowledgeable barman before returning<br />

for a three-hour late lunch (not recommended<br />

when they are busy). The outdoor patio is one of<br />

several prime spots<br />

on Main Street for<br />

al fresco dining.<br />

Across the street<br />

is Copenhagen’s,<br />

with a walk-up<br />

ice cream counter<br />

and a take-away<br />

window at the side<br />

of the building.<br />

Menus feature<br />

The Albion Hotel<br />

food-truck-style<br />

offerings such as<br />

perch or yellow pickerel with fresh cut fries,<br />

crispy fish tacos, Metzger Meat’s footlongs and<br />

burgers and BBQ pork poutine. Take a seat<br />

Relax and enjoy our peaceful<br />

Creekside Patio.<br />

Breakfast, lunch and dinner<br />

7 days a week.<br />

Benmiller Inn & Spa<br />

81175 Benmiller Line | Goderich ON | 519.524.2191 1.800.265.1711 | www.benmiller.ca

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Black Dog Pub & Bistro<br />

at one of several umbrellaed backyard picnic<br />

tables, or do as their website suggests and take<br />

your repast to the nearby Clan Gregor Square<br />

where you will find a small pavilion, plenty of<br />

shade, a splash pad and more picnic tables. At<br />

the opposite end of Main Street is Rosie’s Ice<br />

Cream Shoppe, known for its pink, turquoise<br />

and purple awning and old-fashioned, batchby-batch<br />

London Ice Cream offerings.<br />

Next to the Black Dog is Olio, a reasonably<br />

priced snack bar and summertime pizzeria.<br />

Olio’s mantra: “We refuse to compromise<br />

quality in our restaurant. That’s why we source<br />

our fresh ingredients<br />

from our<br />

local vendors and<br />

farmers.” There is<br />

a stone oven for<br />

their signature<br />

pizzas and the<br />

smoker and BBQ<br />

are fired up for<br />

breakfast and allday<br />

snacks. One<br />

offering from<br />

the smoker is<br />

pulled pork with BBQ sauce and apple slaw on<br />

ciabatta. Also on ciabatta is brisket, smoked<br />

cheddar cheese, caramelized onions and<br />

horseradish aioli. There is a black bean burger,<br />

veggie dog and a plant-based burger. The<br />

Olio Hypocrite Burger is a plant-based patty<br />

wrapped in bacon.<br />

Down the street, the hospitable Lake House<br />

of Bayfield is much more casual than The Red<br />

Pump ever was. The menu features starters<br />

and shareables, salads, burgers and entrées,<br />

best described as comfort foods. There are<br />

battered lake perch tacos, pulled pork nachos<br />

and smoked rainbow trout. The signature<br />

Baron Burger with smoked bacon and freshly-<br />

<strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 23<br />

The Lake House of Bayfield<br />


519-565-2576<br />

LakeHouseofBayfield.com<br />

Sesame<br />

Lo Mein<br />

Salad<br />

“Where everyone knows your game”<br />

18 Hole Golf Course<br />

Year-round Restaurant / Bar<br />

Protein<br />

Bowl<br />

whitesquirrelgolfclub.com<br />

7 km north of Grand Bend on Hwy. 21

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

The Best and Only Water-TOP Patio!<br />

Chef-inspired Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner Menus<br />

Craft Beers & Inspired Cocktails<br />

Best View In The City<br />

Join Us ... Dockside!<br />

Alternate Grounds Dockside<br />

Sarnia Bay Marina,<br />

97 Seaway Road, Sarnia<br />

519-332-3081<br />

Open Daily • from 8–Late • April–October<br />

agdockside.com<br />

www.sarniaepicweekend.com<br />

The tall ships®<br />

Are coming!<br />

ground chuck and brisket and smoked cheddar<br />

cheese on a brioche remains a knockout. On<br />

the dinner menu, there are chèvre, sundried<br />

tomato and pesto-stuffed chicken breast,<br />

chipotle red snapper and strip loin steak.<br />

Four years ago, after 33 years of business,<br />

Gayle and Pat Waters turned The Little Inn over<br />

to new owners. The Little Inn was beautifully<br />

renovated and refurbished and the kitchen was<br />

redesigned so the Inn could focus on becoming<br />

a culinary destination. The plan was for diners<br />

to experience Huron County and Bayfield in<br />

particular through its culinary offerings.<br />

Now owned by Mike Oliver and Jamie<br />

McDougall, The Little Inn’s Willow Room offers<br />

seasonal menus by executive chef Dan Stubbs,<br />

who came to The Little Inn four and a half years<br />

ago from Clevelands House, a historic resort<br />

on Lake Rousseau in Muskoka. Stubbs always<br />

showcases the best of locally-procured Huron<br />

County ingredients. The hybrid of elevated<br />

comfort food cooking and high-end refinement<br />

and technique is something that we don’t mind<br />

paying a premium for. The beautifully appointed<br />

Four-in-Hand Taproom features an extensive<br />

selection of beers, wines and specialty cocktails<br />

and items like charcuterie, fish cakes, schnitzel<br />

<strong>August</strong> 8th -11th<br />

3 Events<br />

1 Epic Weekend<br />


and beer battered<br />

haddock and<br />

chips.<br />

We are longtime<br />

fans of the<br />

seasonal drive-in<br />

restaurant<br />

and when we<br />

want to wax<br />

The Little Inn of Bayfield<br />

nostalgic with<br />

old school fast<br />

food the Farmers Dell (est. 1956) in Brucefield<br />

is consistently good. We continue to hear<br />

great things about the new owners. The longestablished<br />

Woodland Drive-In just outside<br />

Bayfield also continues to be a local hot spot.<br />

In the morning, be sure to grab yourself a<br />

coffee at Shopbike Coffee and a salted caramel<br />

cupcake at the Pink Flamingo Bakery to start<br />

your day.<br />

Trust...<br />

Taste...<br />

Quality...<br />

BRYAN LAVERY is <strong>Eatdrink</strong> Food Editor and Writer at<br />

Large. Always on the lookout for stories <strong>Eatdrink</strong> should<br />

be telling, he helps shape the magazine both under his<br />

byline and behind the scenes.<br />

Your Source for<br />

Dry Aged Steaks,<br />

Sausages, Burgers & Kebabs<br />

and so much more ...<br />

• Sourced locally from trusted farms<br />

• Traditional European preparation methods<br />

• The latest in food processing innovation<br />

Featuring<br />

Creative Menus<br />

from Chefs<br />

Erryn Shephard<br />

&<br />

Ben Sandwith<br />

Always Available<br />

for Caterings!<br />

Lunch and Dinner<br />

Seasonal Hours<br />

Reservations Recommended<br />

519.238.6224<br />

42 Ontario St. S., Grand Bend<br />

www.finearestaurant.com<br />

Open six days a week.<br />

Hensall, Ontario<br />

Just off Hwy 4,<br />

45 minutes north of London.<br />

www.metzgermeats.com<br />

519-262-3130<br />

Available in London at<br />

The Village Meat Shop<br />

at The Market at Western Fair<br />

on Weekends!<br />

Local Beef • Pork • Lamb • Poultry<br />

Specialty European Meat Products

26 | <strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Spotlight<br />

New Hotspots<br />

Four Noteworthy Additions to Our Culinary Scene<br />


Grace<br />

215 Dundas Street, London<br />

226-667-4822<br />

gracelondon.ca<br />

lunch thursday & friday 11:30am–2pm<br />

dinner wednesday–saturday from 5pm<br />

sunday 11:30am–2pm; 6pm–9pm<br />

monday & tuesday closed<br />

In one of the more<br />

eagerly awaited<br />

recent launches<br />

in downtown<br />

London, Chef Angie Murphy and partner/<br />

sommelier Pete Annson opened Grace<br />

restaurant to rave reviews. The cuisine is<br />

modern Canadian, drawing on classic French<br />

traditions and techniques, infused with global<br />

influences and local flavours. There is a certified<br />

sommelier on the premises and the wine list<br />

offers interesting pairing opportunities. A<br />

prix fixe dinner menu is created every Sunday<br />

with a different theme, with a prix fixe brunch<br />

including appealing sweet and savoury options.<br />

Two Guys and a Whisk Bakery<br />

519 Dundas Street, Woodstock<br />

519-290-9200<br />

fb.com/Two-Guys-and-a-Whisk-<br />

Bakery-258765288121751<br />

tuesday–saturday 9:30am–4pm<br />

sunday & monday closed<br />

Located in downtown<br />

Woodstock, baker Nabil<br />

Danha and partner<br />

Tracy Kimmett of Two<br />

Guys and a Whisk Bakery<br />

offer an extensive array of<br />

classic baked goods. This is the spot for more<br />

than satisfying a sweet tooth, with buttery,<br />

ultra-flaky croissants, crusty baguettes, and<br />

artisanal breads. Dessert lovers will be in<br />

heaven too. You’ll also find exquisite Frenchinspired<br />

patisserie, brownies, lemon squares,<br />

cookies, tarts, pies, custom cakes and some<br />

gluten-free products.

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 27<br />

Two Forks<br />

295 Bridge Street, Port Stanley<br />

226-658-4887<br />

fb.com/twoforks295<br />

open daily 11:30am–10pm<br />

Chef Rob Lampman,<br />

formerly of The Kettle<br />

Creek Inn, and his<br />

partner Terrie Collard<br />

have created a<br />

welcoming space. The<br />

“beachy chic” decor, complemented by a<br />

gorgeous patio and chef’s garden, enhance the<br />

vibe. The bar has live-edge wood extensions<br />

creating extra seating. Small plates, designed<br />

for sharing, are made with local ingredients<br />

from scratch. You’ll find freshly shucked live<br />

oysters right at the bar, local wine on tap,<br />

craft beer flights and handcrafted cocktails<br />

like the Two Forks Caesar, topped with pickle,<br />

olive, shrimp, oyster and a pastrami slider!<br />

Happiness Café<br />

430 Wellington Street, London<br />

519-204-2854<br />

myhappiness.ca<br />

tuesday-friday 8:30am–6pm<br />

saturday 9:00am–5pm<br />

sunday 10am–4pm<br />

monday closed<br />

Olha and Anatolii Prytkova’s family-owned<br />

Happiness, on Wellington Street across<br />

from One London Place, features Europeanstyle<br />

coffee and desserts. All the baking is<br />

done from scratch, featuring seasonal and<br />

specialty cakes, French macarons, cupcakes<br />

and chocolates. They also feature a selection<br />

of delectable high-end doughnuts such as<br />

pistachio, crème brûlée, salted caramel, mango<br />

and passion fruit. Coffee for their espressobased<br />

drinks comes from craft roaster “Hatch.”<br />

C’Angelina<br />

Catering<br />

Corporate & Family BBQs<br />

Prepared Foods & Fresh Meats<br />

Catering that meats your needs.<br />

426 Third Street, London<br />

519-204-8189<br />


28 | <strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />


Road Trips<br />

Exploring Essex County<br />

It’s Worth Another Visit ... and Stay Awhile<br />


A<br />

good road trip needs to tick a<br />

lot of boxes, especially when<br />

time is at a premium and gas<br />

prices are high. No one wants<br />

to keep doing the same trip either. How<br />

lucky are we then to have Essex County;<br />

chock-full of activities from birding, to<br />

wine tasting, to food trails, to history and<br />

much, much more. Getting there quickly is<br />

not the problem. But having to head back<br />

might be, so why not plan to stay awhile?<br />

The tasting bar at Oxley Estate Winery<br />

is flooded with sunshine as vivacious<br />

Oxley Estate Winery<br />

North 42 Degrees<br />

Colchester Ridge Estate Winery (CREW)<br />

owner Ann Neydon Wilson steps forward to greet us.<br />

A good vibe seems omnipresent, from the spacious<br />

wine patio and gardens to the carefully restored barn.<br />

Delightfully earnest staff will feel like friends before<br />

we leave and tastings of the small batch, awardwinning<br />

wines will have been puckishly paired with<br />

songs (since every wine has a “sound”). Wowza White<br />

2017, a bright, clean blend was linked to The Cure’s<br />

Close to Me, which seemed just right.<br />

Oxley also has an excellent restaurant (choices<br />

include a spiced honey-glazed Cornish hen with<br />

leek bread pudding) and recently won a designation<br />

from Open Table as one of Canada’s Most Romantic<br />

Restaurants. Popular theme nights include Howl-atthe-Moon<br />

with live music, Buck-a-shuck ($1 per each<br />

East Coast oyster), and Barn Dinners, and there is<br />

live music every Sunday from May to October 6. 533<br />

County 50 Rd. East, Harrow, oxleyestatewinery.com<br />

North 42 Degrees Estate Winery takes its name<br />

from the same latitude address as Central Italy and<br />

Northern California, and states its credo in a few<br />

words: “good times and fine wines.” But when affable<br />

owner Martin Gorski speaks eloquently about the<br />

region’s superior soil and the surrounding Carolinian<br />

forest, his tone becomes so reverential there’s no<br />

mistaking a serious love affair. North 42 Degrees is a<br />

stunningly beautiful year-round destination offering a<br />

myriad of events, as well as good wine. Past workshops<br />

have included photography, pierogi making, and crosscountry<br />

skiing, and there is a wine club. Corporate<br />

events and weddings are easily accommodated on<br />

the property. Serenity Lavender Farms is part of<br />

the winery, and produces over 40 different kinds of<br />

lavender. Products are available in the store.<br />

Martin’s son Aaron is a superb wine guide,<br />

speaking intelligently about all aspects of the process<br />

and listening closely to our questions. The walls are<br />

lined with medals but the Sparkling Sauvignon Blanc<br />

(with a hint of Bosc pear that quickly makes it my<br />

favourite) won double gold, meaning the decision<br />

was unanimous. On the second floor, Bistro 42 is a<br />

sophisticated but comfortable dining experience,<br />

with sweeping views of Lake Erie and the vineyard<br />

provided by floor-to-ceiling windows. Food and staff

30 | <strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

alike are celestial — silky soft gnocchi and<br />

savory squares of pork belly are standouts.<br />

Even the tooled flatware is an art form. A<br />

busy map on the wall uses pins to represent<br />

North 42 Degrees visitors from all over the<br />

world, who have come to sample the wine and<br />

tranquility here. 130 County Road 50 East, Colchester,<br />

north42degrees.com<br />

CREW is the acronym associated with<br />

Colchester Ridge Estate Winery, a small family<br />

run business that since 2006 has been producing<br />

award-winning VQA wines on 12 acres of<br />

vines. Michelle Turnbull welcomes us in the<br />

tasting room and proudly explains how successfully<br />

grapes can be grown in this “Canadian<br />

Riviera.” She also cites the warm breezes off<br />

Lake Erie and notes that being so far south<br />

really does have a positive effect on the wines.<br />

The CREW Merlot 2016 that I sample is<br />

soft and full of dark berries and spice —<br />

distinctive tastes that even I can discern<br />

with a prompt, and it is frankly, delicious.<br />

CREW tastings usually take place in the retail<br />

store at the front of the building but larger<br />

groups tend to use the barrel room, which is<br />

impressively cavernous. Michelle notes that<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

with the<br />

creation<br />

of a brand<br />

new tasting<br />

room and<br />

special<br />

event space<br />

coming<br />

in the fall<br />

Grove House Hotel<br />

(clearly<br />

underway<br />

outside)<br />

there will<br />

be room for<br />

additional<br />

art and<br />

sculptures.<br />

A nearby<br />

trio of highstepping<br />

The BlackJack Gastrovan<br />

sheep has<br />

already made us smile, and there is something<br />

about art, wine and whimsy that just seem<br />

a perfect match. 108 County Road 50 East, Harrow,<br />

colchesterridge.com<br />

Tucked into the corner of Main Street and<br />


Plus get your own car cleaned and detailed!<br />

eatdrink &<br />

Presented by<br />

Enter by going to eatdrink.ca/contests<br />

Contest ends <strong>August</strong> 26, <strong>2019</strong>. Complete details online.<br />

Congratulations Wendy McMurray,<br />

winner of our May/June Draw!

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Division is Dutch Boys Chocolate, the collaborative<br />

dream of Henry Noestheden and Cor<br />

Boon, award winners in their respective fields<br />

as sculptor/designer and professional woodcarver.<br />

Both men — charming and dapper in<br />

their black caps and aprons — are now in their<br />

seventies, yet completed much of the store<br />

renovation themselves and when highly specialized<br />

machinery proved costly, they designed and<br />

assembled their own. Everything is made on<br />

site, by hand, and with “a great deal of love” Cor<br />

says. Kingsville has shown them much support<br />

since they opened two years ago, when they also<br />

won a “Jimmie Award” for the Best Chocolate<br />

in Canada. Boon’s diverse selection of carvings,<br />

which ultimately become silicone moulds for the<br />

chocolate, are often inspired by Point Pelee wildlife,<br />

and are truly art forms themselves. Truffles<br />

are made daily and there are 24 different kinds.<br />

Local<br />

ingredients<br />

are<br />

often<br />

featured<br />

although<br />

Henry<br />

confides<br />

the butter<br />

Dutch Boys Chocolate<br />

is from<br />

Normandy.<br />

The lavender<br />

sample I enjoy is a little square of shining<br />

bliss. Visitors are encouraged to watch production<br />

through a large window. 2 Main Street West,<br />

Kingsville, dutchboyschocolate.com<br />

The Grove Brew House is an awardwinning<br />

microbrewery. A hotel of the same<br />

name is next door and both have enjoyed<br />

plenty of positive buzz since opening in<br />

2016. Previously a historic landmark, The<br />

Grove building has since been re-imagined<br />

as a boutique hotel. It recently placed in<br />

TripAdvisor’s Top 25 Small Hotels in Canada,<br />

and attracts such famous guests as Margaret<br />

Atwood and Gene Simmons. At the Brew<br />

House we sample a tender crusted wood<br />

oven pizza simply adorned with tomato<br />

sauce, a slick of garlic oil and some fresh basil<br />

skittered over buffalo mozzarella and it is<br />

one of the best I have ever had. Beers I enjoy<br />

include the Clubhouse Stout — an assertive<br />

glass of treacly darkness — and the aptly<br />

named Paradise Lager, which is just that.<br />

Both The Grove Brew House and The Grove<br />

Hotel have been decorated with a distinctly<br />

funky but pleasing juxtaposition of old and<br />


from the house<br />

that JacK built.<br />


Check in to one of our three distinctive inns and enjoy our<br />

town’s generous hospitality. Visit the Kingsville Concierge<br />

Desk to plan your culinary exploration.<br />

Join us for lunch or dinner at Jack’s Gastropub to experience<br />

our farm-to-table menus recreated each season.<br />

Start your day at Bean15 Coffee Lounge before setting out<br />

on an EPIC Wine Route Adventue.<br />

Finish your day with us at Banded Goose Brewing Co. with a<br />

pint of beer made in house. CHEERS!<br />





Open Daily at 8am<br />

70 Park Street, Kingsville ON<br />

519-712-9335<br />


eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

growers & creators of fine lavender products<br />


INDULGE.<br />

ESCAPE.<br />

519-494-5525<br />

47589 Sparta Line, Sparta<br />

Wed–Sat 10-5; Sun 12–4<br />

Mother’s Day to Dec. 20<br />

PLUS June–Labour Day: Tues 10-5<br />

steedandcompany.com<br />

Enjoy<br />

Our Annual<br />

Lavender Fairy<br />

Festival<br />

Sat., Aug. 10<br />

12–4pm $ 5<br />

Bring<br />

Your Wings!<br />

Come Experience Our World!<br />

Award Winning Artisan Cheese<br />

$5 Garden<br />

Admission<br />

June 15-<strong>July</strong> 14<br />

NOW OFFERING! Affinage 101<br />

A hands-on behind-the-scenes experience<br />

• Visit the aging room where cheese is cured<br />

• Taste the changes in flavour as the cheese cures<br />

• Discover steps to judge cheese quality and taste<br />

• Create a delicious Gunn’s Hill fondue from scratch<br />

• Find details and register on our website<br />

445172 Gunn's Hill Rd, Woodstock, ON<br />

519-424-4024<br />

www.gunnshillcheese.ca<br />

new — an interior wall is exposed to reveal<br />

stone beneath while a large rooster sculpture<br />

stands tall in a washroom. Original pipes<br />

have been incorporated at the bar, discovered<br />

oak re-purposed for tables, and of course the<br />

brewery itself shines like a cityscape in the<br />

background. Hotel rooms are not traditional<br />

— each one has been assigned a clever theme<br />

such as “Hello Mr. Lumberjack” whose trendy<br />

description notes that the fluffy linens are<br />

“made from clouds — we’re pretty sure.”<br />

Certainly the quirk works and The Grove’s<br />

attention to every detail from witty menus to<br />

genuinely friendly staff does not go unnoticed.<br />

12 Main Street, Kingsville, breweatsleeprepeat.com<br />

Troy Loop has long been a champion for<br />

Kingsville and his wildly successful Jack’s<br />

Gastropub has been going strong for over<br />

twenty-five years. This busy family-run business<br />

is just one of a few in the “Jack” series, a clever<br />

homage to Jack Miner, famed Kingsville<br />

conservationist who popularized bird banding<br />

and its importance. We enjoy a splendid meal on<br />

Jack’s wraparound porch. It includes succulent<br />

pickerel and good French fries with an especially<br />

tasty vinaigrette slaw while my companion<br />

enjoys a juicy mile-high Luau burger which could<br />

easily have fed a family of four. jacksgastropub.com<br />

“Distinctive Inns of Kingsville” represents<br />

Troy’s multi-property boutique hotel group.<br />

Each hotel is named after its street number,<br />

with Inn31 (31 Division South Street) featuring<br />

three luxurious suites on the second floor<br />

of the 1880 Kingsville homestead. Inn136<br />

features suites at the Heart & Soul Guest<br />

House (136 Mill West). At Inn15, with Brewery<br />

loft suites at the Banded Goose Brewing<br />

Company (15 Main East Street), we enjoy a<br />

pleasant and comfortable stay. The welcome<br />

centre at Banded Goose is a collaborative<br />

effort with Tourism Windsor/Essex/Pelee<br />

Island and serves as a handy hub for friendly<br />

concierge advice, maps and food/wine trail<br />

guides. (An added bonus: from spring to fall a<br />

complimentary bike is available on request).<br />

Bean 15 coffee lounge — also located at the<br />

brewery address — is a casual spot to sip (try<br />

the “Birthday Cake” sugar on your coffee!) as you<br />

plan your next steps. Admire the huge vintage<br />

photographs of Jack Miner on the walls.<br />

The BlackJack Gastrovan — the name says it<br />

all — is yet another “Jack” innovation, serving<br />

up high-end creations on the go, at extremely<br />

reasonable prices. Most recently the Gastrovan<br />

has taken on the Sunday brunch crowd and<br />

offers a changing menu featuring steak and

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Beach House Grill<br />

eggs<br />

breakfast<br />

perogies,<br />

blueberry<br />

Hefeweizen<br />

mussels,<br />

and other<br />

unique<br />

choices.<br />

Troy’s<br />

genuine enthusiasm and passion for Kingsville<br />

is inspiring, and although he has clearly been a<br />

visionary in its success he is quick to point out<br />

that all of the local businesses truly support<br />

one another and believe in what they are doing.<br />

Beach House Grill is a cheery, family-run<br />

restaurant with lots of fun nautical nods (the<br />

doorway to the dining room is a giant porthole)<br />

and a varied menu that has something for<br />

everyone. Breakfasts include everything from<br />

the usual choices to “Meatloaf and Eggs,”<br />

while an extensive dinner menu features<br />

tacos, burgers, seafood (including frog legs),<br />

and a pleasing kids’<br />

menu includes two<br />

pasta choices. 70<br />

Park St., Kingsville,<br />

beachhousegrillkingsville.com<br />

Wolfhead Distillery<br />

is a winning combination<br />

of hipster and<br />

historian, touting<br />

itself as “the first premium<br />

craft distillery<br />

in Essex County since<br />

Prohibition.” Tours of<br />

the distillery as well as<br />

Wolfhead Distillery<br />

tastings are available,<br />

and it’s fascinating<br />

to view the gleaming<br />

steam-punk tableau of copper/steel machinery<br />

clearly on view from the tasting bar.<br />

There is also a restaurant with a menu that<br />

reflects the distillery’s products (Wolfhead<br />

Whisky Smoked Wings, for instance) and<br />

offers plenty of good choices. Wolfhead’s<br />

premium blends of vodka and whisky take<br />

the definition of purity to a new level and<br />

the near-by limestone quarry is essential to<br />

a taste which is “mineral driven.” Vodka is<br />

wheat-based and distilled seven times, making<br />

the product gluten-free. Vodka flavours<br />

(award-winning Premium, banana caramel,<br />

grapefruit) are unique and authentic. (The<br />

grapefruit flavoured vodka tastes intensely<br />

Locally Sourced Ingredients<br />

Authentic Italian Cuisine<br />

Local Craft Beers<br />

Wines from Italy<br />

Regional Specific & Organic<br />

Take Out & Gift Certificates Available<br />

Wine or Spirit Tasting Events!<br />

First Monday of Every Month<br />

Lunch Wednesday–Saturday<br />

Dinner Tuesday–Saturday<br />

www.fatolive.ca<br />

2135 Dorchester Road, Dorchester<br />

519-268-0001<br />

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eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

of peel, almost a marmalade note). Whisky<br />

choices (premium, coffee, apple caramel) are<br />

especially impressive — perfectly balanced<br />

and not remotely cloying. I have never enjoyed<br />

whisky but this is a very different experience.<br />

Additional products are in the works! 7781<br />

Howard Ave, McGregor, www.drinkwolfhead.com<br />

A single goat bleat breaks the silence as we<br />

arrived at the 13-acre Muscedere Vineyards,<br />

a beautiful<br />

family-owned<br />

winery close to<br />

the Chrysler<br />

Canada<br />

Greenway (a<br />

trail popular<br />

with birders,<br />

cyclists and<br />

Muscedere Vineyards<br />

walking<br />

enthusiasts). Melissa Muscedere is a<br />

knowledgeable and entertaining host and in<br />

mid-tasting suggests that we examine the<br />

grapes themselves. As we set out she explains<br />

the care that goes into winemaking (“90%<br />

vineyard, 10% making wine”) and points out<br />

that having “small lots, means big character.”<br />

Muscedere wines — all hand-harvested — have<br />

enjoyed many awards and the premium reds are<br />

a specialty. Award-winning 2013 Syrah is rich<br />

and has a definite pepperiness, as promised.<br />

The delicious 2017 Rosé surprises me since it is<br />

not remotely sugary. Melissa explains that rosé<br />

was not originally intended to be sweet — and<br />

is now finally trending back towards dryness.<br />

As well as two goats and a shaggy rabbit in<br />

his hutch, there is a “dog friendly” policy in place<br />

and a wonderful patio area boasts a wood-fired<br />

oven for pizzas, creating a relaxed family feel.<br />

7457 County Road 18 RR#4 Harrow muscederevineyards.com<br />

Sprucewood Shores Estate Winery opened<br />

in 2006 but, with the stately Tuscany-inspired<br />

retail building rising up from the lush<br />

surroundings, it seems inconceivable that it<br />

hasn’t been here for generations. Sprucewood<br />

Shores is a family business started by parents<br />

and now run by the next generation. Wine<br />

seems to<br />

be almost a<br />

vocation here<br />

and Vice-<br />

President/<br />

Winemaker<br />

Tanya<br />

Mitchell’s<br />

pride and<br />

226.658.4887 @twoforks295 Sprucewood Shores Estate Winery<br />

passion for

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

what she<br />

does is<br />

evident.<br />

I sample<br />

the 2017<br />

Sauvignon<br />

Blanc, which<br />

is very<br />

Caffeine & Co.<br />

tempting<br />

and just<br />

faintly citrus, while the popular “Lady in Red’<br />

2016, a medium light blend, is plummy with<br />

a hint of vanilla bean. Wine and cheese tours<br />

are available as well as tastings. Sprucewood<br />

Shores will also deliver anywhere in Canada.<br />

As well as the patio and surrounding gardens<br />

(balconies offer panoramic views of the<br />

vineyards and Lake Erie) there is a magnificent<br />

reception hall suitable for weddings and other<br />

events. There is also a path to an unexpected<br />

beachfront and scenic pond area. Be sure to<br />

consider Sprucewood Shore’s outstanding<br />

picnic basket, amply packed with thoughtful<br />

gourmet treats which can be paired with a<br />

glass of quality wine and toted along anywhere<br />

on the property. 7258 County Rd 50 West, Harrow,<br />

sprucewoodshores.com<br />

Fresh f lavours<br />

e v e r y day<br />

Proudly serving<br />

our finest dishes<br />

with fresh, local<br />

ingredients since 2016<br />

Restaurant & Bar<br />

226 658 0999<br />

soloportstanley.com<br />


Award-Winning Design and Cuisine<br />

Elegantly Designed and Decorated Rooms<br />

Locally-Sourced Organic Upscale Cuisine<br />

Off-site Catering for Large & Small Groups<br />

71 Front Street, Strathroy ON<br />

Inn & Bistro: clocktower-inn.com<br />

Catering: clocktowercatering.ca<br />

Inn: 519-245-5656 Bistro: 519-205-1500

36 | <strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

Although Caffeine & Co has not yet been open a year,<br />

cheery owner Meghan Boschin laughingly recalls the<br />

line-ups they experienced almost immediately, “as though<br />

they’d been waiting for us!” Housed in an older building,<br />

the Parisian-style interior is sleek black and white marble<br />

with smooth gold chairs (and golden flatware) at each<br />

table. “Bowler-hat lighting” adds a playful touch. Excellent<br />

coffee (which can be spiked with a shot of Baileys or<br />

Sambuca) is available in all its traditional forms as well as<br />

lactose-free, coconut/almond, and soy. Impressive choices<br />

abound, including Turmeric Latte, Jasmine Matcha and an<br />

outstanding Ayurvedic tea, which has a clean mintiness. A<br />

fine loose leaf tea selection is also available. Fresh soup and<br />

quiche are made in-house daily and there is an excellent<br />

selection of sandwiches, also available on gluten-free<br />

bread. An extensive bakery boasts macarons, carrot cake<br />

(suitably striped for Pride and pleasingly moist), croissants<br />

and much more. My favourite is a huge Crème Brûlée<br />

cookie scorched carefully to capture the flavour perfectly,<br />

but without the crunch. A sensible children’s menu<br />

offers waffles and classic grilled cheese. 238 Dalhousie Street,<br />

Amherstburg, caffeine-co.com<br />

Artisan Grill has been favoured by locals and tourists<br />

alike for more than seven years. With an emphasis on<br />

fresh ingredients and attention to detail, Chef Matthew<br />

Johnston’s menu offers a variety of hand-crafted<br />

meals, such as Chicken Marsala, designed to please. An<br />

impressive wine list offers both local and international<br />

choices and there is a good selection of beer on tap. The<br />

restaurant interior is quietly chic while a discreet gated<br />

patio at the back allows diners to eat beneath pergolas<br />

and tiny lights. There is a separate restaurant on the<br />

second floor, Fleur de Lis that is only open Saturday<br />

evenings or by private booking, so reservations are a<br />

must. Fleur de Lis has a prix fixe menu featuring classic<br />

choices such as Lobster Thermidor and Chateaubriand.<br />

269 Dalhousie St., Amherstburg, artisangrill.ca<br />

The Salty Dog is an inviting and popular upscale pub.<br />

A jaunty seafaring vibe prevails inside. We are able to<br />

sample a few specialties, including a vegan taco (popular<br />

even with carnivores!) with a toothsome filling of crispy<br />

cauliflower, avocado and chipotle drizzle. Lobster mac ‘n’<br />

cheese is piping hot and creamily tender with generous<br />

hits of lobster meat. An imported wood-fire oven<br />

produces consistently excellent pizza and is clearly visible<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Artisan Grill<br />

The Salty Dog<br />

from the tables. The Salty Dog has<br />

a good selection of beer, wine, and<br />

specialty cocktails, and despite<br />

its relative newcomer status (not<br />

quite a year in business) it may<br />

well have found its moorings.<br />

237 Dalhousie Street, Amherstburg,<br />

thesaltydogcanada.com<br />

At the Waterfront Ice Cream<br />

Shop there are over 50 flavours of<br />

hand-scooped ice cream to choose<br />

from. Old school parfaits, banana<br />

splits, and milkshakes are also<br />

here and with nearly 40 years in<br />

business, you can be assured they<br />

will be done right. (Voted #1 ice<br />

cream parlour for Windsor, Essex<br />

and Metro Detroit). 229 Dalhousie St.,<br />

Amherstburg, waterfronticecream.com<br />

Whatever your road trip theme,<br />

Essex County has so much to offer.<br />

You should go.<br />

SUE SUTHERLAND-WOOD is a freelance writer<br />

and regular contributor to <strong>Eatdrink</strong>. Read more of<br />

Sue’s work at www.speranzanow.com<br />

DOUG NORTH is an enthusiastic photographer,<br />

writer and historian living in London.<br />

Waterfront Ice Cream<br />

Sue and Doug were guests of Tourism Windsor Essex<br />

Pelee Island, which did not review or approve the<br />

contents of this article.

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Beer<br />

Season of Fruitfulness<br />

Summer Beers with a Little Extra Flavour<br />


<strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 37<br />

In a sauce over ice cream, in muffins,<br />

or in a pie. These are all noble ways to<br />

use rhubarb, but can anything compare<br />

with putting it in beer? Two London<br />

breweries think not.<br />

Forked River Brewing has, for most if not<br />

all of its six years in business, used rhubarb to<br />

brew Flashback. It’s a wheat beer with rhubarb<br />

added to give it a refreshing tartness and at<br />

4.5 per cent alcohol, it’s okay to say, “I’ll have<br />

another.” Flashback has grown beyond the<br />

brewery bottle shop and is now sold at LCBO<br />

stores in London and beyond.<br />

Not to be outdone, London Brewing<br />

has its own celebration of spring with<br />

Neighbourhood Tart, flavoured with donated<br />

rhubarb from the backyards of Londoners.<br />

The <strong>2019</strong> batch of this anticipated seasonal is<br />

ready at the brewery shop.<br />

Rhubarb is not the only fruit helping to<br />

flavour beer at London Brewing. Arguably the<br />

best on the board is Resolution, which uses<br />

the lesser-known kumquat. Kumquats are<br />

Bad Apple on Highway 21 between St. Joseph<br />

and Bayfield brews a strawberry cyser-weisen,<br />

adding strawberries and apples to a base of<br />

wheat beer. There is<br />

also a strawberryrhubarb<br />

version.<br />

Bad Apple is<br />

also brewing<br />

Penny’s Radler in<br />

collaboration with<br />

Culture Shock<br />

Kombucha of Grand<br />

Bend. Penny’s Radler<br />

will have a cherry flavour, along with vanilla.<br />

The juice and beer blends of radlers are a<br />

welcome addition to a summer’s day, whether<br />

you’re at a Huron County beach or in the city.<br />

This summer, Upper Thames in Woodstock<br />

will be dabbling in the fruit and beer space<br />

about the size of grape tomatoes and, when<br />

used in Resolution, add a zippiness to the sour<br />

beer to create a warm weather thirst quencher<br />

decidedly different from Bud Light.<br />

Here are some other beers with fruit<br />

themes from around the region to impress<br />

your friends with this summer.<br />

again with Making Waves. It will be a sour<br />

beer, but exactly what fruit will be used is<br />

being kept close<br />

to the vest. Upper<br />

Thames also has<br />

brewed Waves - Black<br />

Currant, magenta<br />

in colour and so, so<br />

very sour. A beer<br />

with passion fruit,<br />

which is a popular<br />

choice for brewers,<br />

is called Making Waves. Both Waves — Black<br />

Currant and Making Waves — are on tap at<br />

the brewery.<br />

Savouring and saving just got easier, thanks<br />

to Half Hours on Earth in Seaforth. The<br />

brewery has released a raw ale (which means<br />

the wort hasn’t been boiled) called Centigrade.

38 | <strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

Black currant leaves, dandelion roots,<br />

and lemon zest help to flavour this<br />

sour beer. Savour it, yes. The saving<br />

part comes with the knowledge that $1<br />

from each bottle sold will be donated<br />

to the David Suzuki Foundation<br />

to aid its efforts to battle climate<br />

change. Climate change and Earth’s<br />

rising temperatures are also what<br />

inspired the beer’s name. Maybe take<br />

cold comfort with a refreshing beer<br />

for increasingly hot days.<br />

psum<br />




open year round<br />

23 Main St.<br />

Grand Bend, ON<br />

cultureshockkombucha.com<br />

#loveyourgut<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Tango with mango, you say? Mango is a<br />

popular fruit to add to beer. At Anderson<br />

Craft Ales in<br />

London, they’ve<br />

combined mangoes<br />

and lime in a gose<br />

(a German-style<br />

sour beer) to create<br />

a pucker-worthy<br />

experience. Tart and<br />

fruity, this is fresh at<br />

the taproom.<br />

Confluence, a sour IPA brewed by Storm<br />

Stayed in London, incorporates apricots and<br />

peaches with Azacca and Mosaic hops. Hop<br />

choices will<br />

add to the<br />

fruit flavour<br />

of a beer.<br />

Azacca provides<br />

citrus<br />

and tropical<br />

fruit notes. Mosaic hops, which are very<br />

popular, provide aromas such as blueberry<br />

and mango.<br />

Steel Wheel near Brantford used almost<br />

20 kilograms<br />

of mangoes<br />

in brewing<br />

kettle sour.<br />

The on-farm<br />

brewery doesn’t<br />

name its beer,<br />

but we’ll call this one Mango Mama.<br />

Personally, I hate grapefruit and no amount<br />

of brown sugar can sway me. But squeeze that<br />

taste into a beer, and maybe … Black Swan<br />

in Stratford created Grapefruit Wild Child,

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

a Berliner weisse<br />

which comes with the<br />

advisory that tartness<br />

and fruit flavour<br />

may vary by batch.<br />

Neat trick to keep us<br />

coming back to try<br />

some more beer.<br />

If fruit creativity in<br />

the brewhouse is your thing, it pays to keep<br />

watch on the Renegade series from Cowbell<br />

in Blyth. The<br />

farm brewery/<br />

restaurant/event<br />

centre’s current<br />

release in No.<br />

23, an oatmeal<br />

vanilla black<br />

lager. But recent releases have included a dryhopped<br />

cherry weizen and a mango milkshake<br />

IPA. There’ll be more around the corner.<br />


11am−2pm<br />

Intimate<br />

Outdoor<br />

Courtyard<br />

GEORGE MACKE is a craft beer explorer living in<br />

London.<br />

Open 7 Days a Week<br />

Mon/Tues 11:30-10, Wed/Thurs 11:30-11, Fri/Sat 11:30-12, Sun 11-10<br />

Road Trip!<br />




40 | <strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Wine<br />

Discover Ontario Gewürtztraminer<br />

Style? Versatile!<br />


This past April I had the opportunity to<br />

travel to Alsace, a French wine region<br />

with a focus on white wines. I had tasted<br />

many rieslings from Alsace, it’s the grape I<br />

associate with this region, but it was another grape<br />

— gewürztraminer — that grabbed my attention.<br />

Gewürztraminer is the second most planted<br />

grape in Alsace, with riesling being number one.<br />

Wine purists would correct me if I called<br />

gewürztraminer a varietal rather than a clonal mutation<br />

of traminer/savagnin. “Gewürz” means “spice”<br />

in German and was added to traminer after an<br />

aroma mutation. This can be compared to pinot noir;<br />

pinot gris, pinot grigio, and pinot blanc are mutations<br />

of the same variety.<br />

To add a little more confusion, proper spelling<br />

of the grape is gewürztraminer, except in France<br />

where it is gewurztraminer (without the umlaut).<br />

Gewürztraminer is naturally high in sugar and<br />

lower in acidity, for a softer, rounder mouthfeel.<br />

The wines are usually fermented off-dry to medium<br />

sweet and are very aromatic. This sweetness is<br />

perfect to balance highly-seasoned and spicy Asian,<br />

Indian, and Thai dishes. It is one of only a few white<br />

wines that I would also recommend with sweet and<br />

spicy BBQ ribs and other spicy summertime dishes.<br />

Gewürztraminer is grown in regions of France,<br />

Italy, Spain, Australia, New Zealand, Chile and<br />

right here in Ontario, Canada. How does Ontario<br />

gewürztraminer benchmark against those I tasted<br />

in Alsace? That is the question I set out to answer.<br />

With a few exceptions the Ontario<br />

gewürztraminers that I tasted tended to be drier,<br />

higher in acidity and less aromatic than those in<br />

Alsace. Lychee and passion fruit and floral notes<br />

were common in all. While all of the Ontario<br />

gewürztraminers are very good, one in particular<br />

blew me away!<br />

Ontario gewürztraminer is quite versatile in<br />

style from dry to sweet icewine. However, not a lot<br />

of them find their way to the LCBO. Many of these<br />

gems are available only from the winery, and are<br />

worth the trip to purchase.<br />

Pelee Island 2017 Lola<br />

Gewürztraminer ($13.95, LCBO#:<br />

618231) — This one is available at many<br />

LCBO locations.<br />

Lola<br />

is a label<br />

produced<br />

by Pelee<br />

Island Winery.<br />

While<br />

not overly<br />

aromatic, it<br />

delivers in<br />

taste. With<br />

approximately<br />

28<br />

grams/litre<br />

of sugar<br />

this wine<br />

is medium<br />

sweet. There<br />

is a peachy<br />

and honeysuckle sweetness and lemon<br />

zest to counterbalance. An ideal summer<br />

sipping wine at an excellent price.<br />

North 42 Degrees<br />

Estate Winery 2016<br />

Gewürztraminer ($19.95,<br />

available at winery only) —<br />

Invitingly classic aromatic<br />

rose petal notes on the nose.<br />

Very floral. Bone dry with<br />

only 4 grams of sugar/litre.<br />

Ripe fruit flavours of peach,<br />

pear and orange marmalade.<br />

Hints of hibiscus add some<br />

nice complexity. Elevated<br />

acidity which leads to a nice<br />

clean finish.<br />

North 42’s host Michelle<br />

Trpcevski recommended<br />

pairing this wine with Bistro<br />

42’s curry dishes.

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

North 42 Degrees Estate Winery 2017<br />

Late Harvest Gewürztraminer ($29.95/375<br />

ml bottle, available at winery only) — The<br />

grapes for this<br />

wine were picked<br />

on November<br />

12, 2017. Picking<br />

in the late fall<br />

allows the berries<br />

to become riper<br />

and produce more<br />

sugar, resulting<br />

in a sweeter<br />

style of wine.<br />

This late harvest<br />

gewürztraminer<br />

has 62 grams/<br />

litre of sugar. It’s<br />

deliciously sweet!<br />

Classic<br />

flowery perfume<br />

nose along with hints of honey. Layers of<br />

complexity on the palate. Lychee fruit, sweet<br />

peach, orange peel, tangerine, and a waxy<br />

earthiness.<br />

Recommended food pairing — Muenster<br />

cheese. It’s a classic Alsatian wine pairing.<br />

Lacey Estates 2016 Inspired<br />

Gewürztraminer ($20, available from<br />

the winery or LCBO#: 132639 in limited<br />

supply) — Lacey Estates is located<br />

in Prince Edward County, and<br />

sourced gewürztraminer grapes<br />

from Niagara’s Twenty Mile Bench<br />

sub-region to make this wine. At 9<br />

grams/litre it is still dry in style.<br />

Winemaker Kimball Lacey<br />

offered this information. “Skin<br />

contact .... this adds to the golden<br />

colour and will heighten the<br />

nose and flavours on the wine as<br />

well. There were three different<br />

periods of contact on the wine:<br />

24 hours, 48 hours, and 72 hours.<br />

All were pressed out separately<br />

to individual tanks, inoculated<br />

with the same yeast strain and<br />

fermented to different levels of<br />

sugar content. And then filtered<br />

and blended back together in<br />

the end. The name ‘Inspired’ was<br />

given to this wine as the amount of grapes<br />

that came in (roughly six tonnes) was more<br />

than I was expecting and it inspired me to try<br />

some new directions with this wine.”<br />

Winemaking at Its Finest<br />

Premium quality handcrafted wine<br />

at an affordable price<br />

150 Exeter Road, London 519-652-3998<br />

somersetfinewines.com<br />

OPEN TUES–FRI 10am–7pm & SAT 9am–4pm<br />




Summer<br />

Hours:<br />

Wed–Sun<br />

12-6<br />

7<br />

SARNIA<br />

LAKE<br />

HURON<br />

HAPPENS!<br />

21<br />

Grand<br />

Bend<br />

Forest<br />

Aberarder Line<br />

21<br />

402<br />

London<br />

77 km<br />

Available at the winery, select LCBOs & farmers’ markets<br />

5547 Aberarder Line, Plympton-Wyoming<br />

519-899-2479 • altonfarmsestatewinery.com

Small Lot Award Winning Wines<br />

We invite you to visit Oxley and taste our<br />

classics (Auxerrois, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir<br />

& Riesling) and our unique varietals:<br />

Regent, Wowza & Ripper Red.<br />

Open daily from 11am–6pm<br />

www.oxleyestatewinery.com (519) 738-3264<br />

533 County Rd. 50 E. Harrow, ON<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Aromatic touches of rose and orange zest<br />

on the nose. The palate offers a pithy, phenolic<br />

edge that gives texture. Ripe pear and red<br />

apple fruits. This wine has lovely balance.<br />

Colchester Ridge Estate Winery 2017<br />

(CREW) Gewürztraminer ($17.95/winery<br />

only) — This is it! The one that blew me away.<br />

Aromatic flowery rose petal, honeysuckle,<br />

and orange blossom<br />

on the nose. It delivers<br />

fresh, ripe peach, pear,<br />

and juicy citrus on the<br />

palate. With 20 grams<br />

of sugar/litre there is a<br />

lush mouthfeel. There<br />

is sweetness, and it is<br />

perfectly balanced and<br />

really supports this wine<br />

to the finish.<br />

Made from estategrown<br />

grapes, only 50<br />

cases were produced. It’s<br />

a great value for such<br />

small lot production. The<br />

2017 vintage is currently

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

available at the winery and is expected to sell<br />

out by mid-summer. The 2018 vintage will be<br />

available then. I tasted it too, and it is every<br />

bit as good as the 2017.<br />

This Ontario gewürztraminer checks all the<br />

boxes for what I was looking for. From the<br />

first sniff of aromas I was taken back to my<br />

week in Alsace. I encourage you to get out to<br />

CREW and get this gewürztraminer.<br />

GARY KILLOPS is a CAPS Certified Sommelier who<br />

loves to talk, taste, and write about wine. He shares his<br />

tasting notes on EssexWineReview.com<br />

Open daily year round 11am-5pm<br />

Quality Craft Wines<br />

Beachfront Picnics<br />

www.sprucewoodshores.com 519-738-9253<br />

Enjoy Our Wines, Available at the LCBO<br />

An EPIC Wine Region<br />

that shares latitude,<br />

not attitude.<br />

We pride our winery experiences<br />

as being laid back and fun. Enjoy<br />

our scenic wine route by taking<br />

an unforgettable road trip, or if<br />

you’re feeling adventurous, pedal<br />

your way around the shores.<br />

$100 Value<br />

for Only $25<br />

Plus, take<br />

advantage of<br />

special offers<br />

and huge savings<br />

with our new EPIC<br />

Tasting Pass!<br />

Find out more at<br />

epicwineries.com<br />

#WINERYQG | visitwindsoressex.com

44 | <strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

The BUZZ<br />

Culinary Community Notes<br />

London<br />

Anita Stewart is University of Guelph’s first food<br />

laureate, a cookbook author and culinary activist,<br />

and President of Food Day Canada, highlighting the<br />

diversity of Canadian terroir. Food Day Canada is<br />

an annual celebration of our homegrown cuisine.<br />

The first event was held on <strong>August</strong> 2, 2003, when<br />

Stewart launched The World’s Longest Barbecue<br />

in support of the cattle and beef industry, which<br />

had been affected by cross border sanctions due<br />

specifically to the BSE crisis (mad cow disease). The<br />

event was larger and more widespread than anyone<br />

could have imagined, with participants from across<br />

Canada, as well as Canadians living abroad. Since<br />

then Food Day Canada has evolved into an annual<br />

mid-summer celebration held on the Saturday of<br />

the <strong>August</strong> long weekend. fooddaycanada.ca<br />

Chef Dave Lamers and Rob D’Amico’s Abruzzi<br />

Ristorante has a new lunch menu with all dishes<br />

$20 or less. Lamers also told us the restaurant<br />

will soon be Feast ON certified. Their new project<br />

in Hyde Park, Taverna 1331, is well underway. They<br />

hope to be open by early fall. 119 King Street, 519-<br />

675-9995, abruzzi.ca<br />

The Slow Food Chefs Alliance is a network uniting<br />

chefs around the world who are committed to<br />

defending biodiversity, traditional gastronomic<br />

skills and local cultures and supporting virtuous<br />

food producers. chefsalliance.ca<br />

Nick Baird and Adil Ahmad’s long-awaited<br />

Beerlab! has opened next door to Milos Craft Beer<br />

Emporium. The venue boasts a 25-patron capacity<br />

with seating at “live-edge planks-cum-tables” that<br />

fold into the wall, to allow additional space when<br />

brewing. In season, a glass garage door will open<br />

up most of the front of Beerlab!, with seating for an<br />

additional 14 patrons on a small street-side patio.<br />

420 Talbot Street, beerlab.com<br />

Powerhouse Brewing Company is family-owned<br />

and operated, using quality, Canadian-made<br />

equipment. It recently celebrated its grand opening.<br />

Powerhouse offers tours, tastes and memorable<br />

experiences in the revitalized The Factory, in Old<br />

East Village. 100 Kelloggs Lane, 519-200-5129,<br />

powerhousebrewery.beer<br />

Yam Gurung believes in cooking, eating, and serving<br />

fresh, home-style food using natural, healthy and<br />

tasty ingredients. He caters to the tastes of his<br />

customers as Momos on Saturday and Sundays<br />

at The Market at Western Fair District. Yam has a<br />

second location at the Food Incubator at Dundas<br />

and Adelaide in Old East Village. Momos, originating<br />

in Nepal and Tibet, are meat- or vegetable-filled<br />

dumplings. Yam’s momos are hand-made, with<br />

local flour-based casings filled with chicken, pork<br />

or veggie mix. They are served with Yam’s tomato,<br />

coriander and garlic sauce. momosatthemarket.com<br />

Just in time for the warm weather that was so<br />

long coming, Willie’s Café, Glen Farms, the Keto<br />

Sweetery and Urban Oven are pleased to announce<br />

that their shared space at 630 Dundas St., the Food<br />

Incubator, is now air conditioned! In-the-know<br />

diners and shoppers have made this foodie enclave<br />

a regular destination. Now you can enjoy a visit in<br />

cool comfort. williescafeandcatering.com<br />

481 Richmond Street<br />

519-432-4092<br />


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Chef Josh Sawyer’s and Elaine Sawyer’s Wich is<br />

Wich has relocated to the former Willie’s Café,<br />

on Wellington south of Oxford, but serving the<br />

same great sandwiches (global flavours, exotic<br />

ingredients, and textural contrasts). They are adding<br />

a weekend brunch Saturday and Sunday, and dinners<br />

Tuesday through Saturday. They will also offer<br />

catering, grab and go. 731 Wellington St., (Wellington<br />

& Piccadilly) 519-860-9424, wichiswich.ca<br />

Hey, Cupcake! will be on the move this fall. The<br />

popular family-run “cupcakerie” will remain at<br />

Wharncliffe and Oxford until Labour Day, when it will<br />

shift to the innovative energy-efficient new West 5<br />

development at 1305 Riverbend Road. heycupcake.ca<br />

The In Home Chef has recently partnered with<br />

London caterer Sebastian’s, and relocated to newly<br />

refurbished premises. 220 Adelaide St. South, 519<br />

686-7201, theinhomechef.ca<br />

Growing Chefs! Ontario is proud to invite you into<br />

its headquarters at 460 King Street. Part children’s<br />

education facility, part event venue, it is a truly<br />

flexible and versatile space, ready to host your<br />

next event. The social enterprise business model<br />

generates funds to support the School Project<br />

initiative, which allows local school children to<br />

Make HAPPINESS<br />

a part of your day.<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

Outdoor Farmers’ Market<br />

Saturdays, 8am–1pm<br />

NEW! Thursday Night Markets, 4pm–7pm<br />

Share the passion for locallygrown<br />

food directly from<br />

local farmers,<br />

growers and<br />

producers. We<br />

grow it, raise it,<br />

make bake it —<br />

local produce,<br />

meat, cheese and more! Join us outside on the<br />

Market Square. Both markets will run weekly<br />

through December.<br />

Colombian Gastronomy Festival<br />

Saturday, <strong>July</strong> 20, 4pm–Midnight<br />

Stereo Caliente<br />

Entertainment will<br />

host this annual<br />

celebration, offering<br />

authentic Colombian<br />

food with the<br />

unique flavour of<br />

Latin music and a<br />

tasty cold beer.<br />

All are welcome!<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />


Mon–Fri 8am–7pm<br />

Saturday 8am–6pm<br />

Sunday 11am–4pm<br />

Mezzanine & Restaurant Hours Differ

“Reasonably priced, fresh, well-executed<br />

Ethiopian cuisine ...” — Bryan Lavery, <strong>Eatdrink</strong><br />

LUNCH Wed to Fri 11:30–2:30<br />

DINNER from 5pm daily<br />

432 Richmond Street<br />

at Carling • London<br />


• Vegetarian &<br />

Vegan Options<br />

Takeout<br />

• Catering<br />

ADDIS ABABA Restaurant<br />

Tuesday–Saturday 11am–10pm by reservation<br />

Closed Sunday & Monday<br />

465 Dundas Street 519 433-4222<br />

www.tgsaddisababarestaurant.com<br />

ALWAYS<br />

a 3-course prix fixe<br />

menu option<br />

www.davidsbistro.ca<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

benefit from the teachings of professional chefs<br />

and educators and to develop wholesome, healthy<br />

eating habits. The website includes all upcoming<br />

events, current education projects and how you can<br />

reach out and help. growingchefsontario.ca<br />

Michelle Pierce Hamilton of The Tea Lounge will<br />

be participating in the new Richmond District “3rd<br />

Thursdays” starting June 20th (and every third<br />

Thursday of the month until further notice). The<br />

Tea Lounge will be hosting a Singer/Songwriter<br />

& Chai night, “Nashville style”, from 5 to 8 p.m.,<br />

featuring local artists and offering a big batch of<br />

Pierce-Hamilton’s signature “Rajputs Chai” with her<br />

own personal spin to make it higher in absorbable<br />

antioxidants and nutrients. 268 Piccadilly St., 519-<br />

601-8327, tealoungelondon.com<br />

Lavery Culinary Group’s team of culinary insiders<br />

brings together groups of visitors for intimate,<br />

immersive culinary and cultural experiences<br />

where they experience hands-on and behind<br />

the scenes the passion of our local artisans and<br />

creators. Attend one of their culinary pop-ups,<br />

cooking classes or dinners or take a Tasting<br />

Tour of the Covent Garden Market. They offer an<br />

interactive culinary and cultural tour centred<br />

on and around the Forks of the Thames with<br />

partners such as Museum London, Rhino Bakery<br />

& Lounge and Eldon House. Or simply explore<br />

London’s dynamic culinary scene with an insider.<br />

laveryculinarygroup.ca<br />

Bake Shop Studio in Wortley Village recently<br />

expanded its hours. You can visit Kate and her<br />

creative team (check out the inspiring gallery on<br />

their website or Instagram) Wednesday–Friday from<br />

11am–4pm, and on Saturdays from 10am–3pm. 145<br />

Wortley Road (Upper) bakeshopstudio.com<br />

Have you tried one of the many house-made desserts<br />

at Radu Rotariu’s new southend Bocconcini? Chef<br />

Chris Taylor’s culinary team is known for its silky,<br />

delectable tiramisu. It’s a great pick-me-up, and the<br />

perfect way to finish off your meal. 1140 Southdale<br />

Road West and Boler Rd., 519-601-7799<br />

Palasad Social Bowl reopened earlier this year<br />

after a six-month renovation and refurbishment.<br />

It offers craft cocktails, a variety of local beer, a<br />

top-notch Caesar (a smoky spin on the classic) and<br />

a from-scratch small plate menu with pub grub<br />

items like wings, sliders, tacos, nachos, poutine and<br />

croquettes, as well as a twist on its famous wood<br />

oven pizza. 777 Adelaide Street North, 519-645-<br />

7164, socialbowl.ca<br />

Afternoon tea on the beautiful grounds of Eldon<br />

House, overlooking the Thames River, returns <strong>July</strong>

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 47<br />

In Memoriam<br />

Joel Pastorius<br />

The Root Cellar, On The Move Organics, London Brewing<br />

Contributed by Ellie Cook<br />

It’s with great sadness that we share that<br />

Joel Pastorius passed away unexpectedly on<br />

May 30th. Joel has been a core team member,<br />

co-owner and leader in our organization since<br />

the very early years, and more than that, he’s<br />

part of our family. We’re devastated and shaken<br />

by his loss, as we<br />

know are all who<br />

knew him.<br />

Joel was a<br />

proud co-owner<br />

of On the Move<br />

Organics and<br />

founding member<br />

of The Root Cellar<br />

and London<br />

Brewing Co-operative. As a group, we wouldn’t<br />

be where we are today without Joel’s unfailing<br />

work ethic, quiet stubborn drive, and big-hearted<br />

spirit. Over the past eight years, Joel filled every<br />

position: from bread baker to pizza chef, from<br />

bike deliverer to newsletter author, from bottle<br />

filler to punny beer namer. Joel was always there<br />

when he was needed, and he tirelessly supported<br />

his team. Joel’s work propelled London’s local<br />

organic food movement forward. He will be<br />

greatly missed.<br />

Thank you for your support,<br />

Ellie, Jeff and Aaron<br />

2 through <strong>August</strong> 25, Tuesday through Sunday.<br />

Light Tea is $15 (incl. HST) per person and includes<br />

a scone with butter and jam, fresh fruit and a<br />

small dessert item. Full Tea is $26 per person and<br />

includes tea sandwiches, a scone with butter and<br />

More than just a Coffee Shop!<br />

jam, fresh fruit and a variety of dessert items (24<br />

hour advanced registration). 481 Ridout St. North,<br />

eldonhouse.ca<br />

More than just a coffee shop, the Cream Beanery<br />

Café offers 24 rotating gelato flavours including<br />

Keto, Dairy Free, Vegan and Gluten Free. Something<br />

for everyone! Take out containers in ½ litre and 1<br />

litre sizes are available. 825 Southdale Road West,<br />

519-652-1607. Cream Beanery Café is also excited to<br />

announce that they are opening a second location in<br />

Mount Brydges — formely O-Joe Coffee Café — at<br />

22469 Adelaide Road. Congratulations!<br />

Beautiful<br />

Canopied Patio<br />

NOW OPEN!<br />

PATIO<br />

OPEN!<br />

Keto Gelato<br />

&<br />

Fresh<br />

Baking<br />

Gelato to Go in ½ litre & 1 litre containers<br />

Try our new Gelato Paninis!<br />

Pour Over Coffee Bar<br />

Iced Coffee<br />

Open Daily 8am–9pm<br />

New 2nd Location!<br />

22469 Adelaide Rd, Mt Brydges<br />

(Formerly O-Joe Coffee)<br />

825 Southdale Rd W, London<br />

519-652-1607<br />


Freshly home-made in the heart of the community<br />

The<br />

Village<br />

Teapot<br />

Licensed<br />

Dine In & Take Out<br />

Catering & Private Events<br />

Breakfast • Brunch • Lunch • Cream Teas<br />

Wed–Fri 10:30–3:30<br />

Sat & Sun 10–2<br />

Reservations<br />

Recommended<br />

Check our website<br />

for our Sunday<br />

Roast Events!<br />

13257 Ilderton Road, Ilderton ON<br />

thevillageteapot.ca<br />

519-298-TEAS (8327)<br />

Here’s the truth.<br />

We’re bringing you the world’s highest quality<br />

Extra Virgin Olive Oils.<br />

And we can prove it.<br />

At The Pristine Olive we pride ourselves on<br />

bringing you the Freshest, Highest Quality<br />

Extra Virgin Olive Oils available.<br />

Sensory evaluated. Lab tested. Certified.<br />

Visit us for over 65 flavours of oils & balsamics.<br />

The<br />

Pristine<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Porcino is reopening at its original location at<br />

1700 Hyde Park Road. Promising the same great<br />

favourites from Chef Gino Parco as before —the<br />

wood-burning pizza oven is back — look for classic<br />

pastas, paninis, pizzas and more. porcinolondon.ca<br />

The focus at Gregg and Justin Wolfe’s Los Lobos<br />

is on platos pequeños (small plates). They<br />

predominate on a menu of Mexican-inspired fare<br />

with a contemporary twist. The menu shares the<br />

love for tacos but also covers a take on classics. We<br />

love the chilaquiles (corn tortillas cut in quarters<br />

and lightly fried) with mole, questo blando, and<br />

cilantro. The crispy cornmeal battered jalapeños<br />

rellenos stuffed with Monterey Jack and served<br />

with red salsa or mole sauce are sensational. There<br />

is a no reservation policy but plenty of seating on<br />

the spacious patio. 580 Talbot Street, London, 519<br />

601-8226<br />

Since 1989 Fellini Koolini’s has been serving Italian<br />

and Mediterranean inspired foods. They strongly<br />

believe that a great dining experience combines<br />

excellent food with a relaxed comfortable ambience<br />

— an atmosphere where one can sit back and<br />

explore a large selection of wine along with madefrom-scratch<br />

pastas, thin crust pizzas, bite-sized<br />

pinchos (tapas) along with interesting entrées.<br />

live<br />

Est. 2012<br />

884 Adelaide Street N. | London | 519-433-4444<br />


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Don’t forget the signature brown butter Brussels<br />

sprouts with Parmigiana-Reggiano and pistachios.<br />

The patio next door at The Runt Club is one of<br />

London’s best-known secrets. 155 Albert Street,<br />

London, 519-642-2300, fellinikoolinis.com<br />

The Root Cellar remains committed to working<br />

with local, organic, and sustainably-focused<br />

farms in Southwestern Ontario. Through On the<br />

Move Organics, the worker-owners have forged<br />

meaningful relationships and continue to expand<br />

the network of organic farmers and producers they<br />

work with. The ingredients of the from-scratch<br />

menu offerings, with ever-changing specials,<br />

are all organic (with minor exceptions), and<br />

procured from the local farming community. All<br />

of the produce and ingredients in the restaurant’s<br />

dishes are certified organic, with 80% local in<br />

season. 623 Dundas Street, London, 519-719-7675,<br />

rootcellarorganic.ca<br />

Eduard Nagy and Anita Tasonyi’s landmark<br />

Budapest Restaurant features a new patio with<br />

a stunning retractable canopy. Signature dishes<br />

include a variety of superb schnitzels, chicken<br />

paprikash, goulash and iconic Hungarian<br />

cabbage rolls. 348 Dundas Street, 519-439-3431,<br />

budapestrestaurant.net<br />

grace is delicious + modern canadian + localfocused<br />

+ from scratch + hyper-seasonal +<br />

accessible + welcoming + food-as-ar t + foodas-communit<br />

y + ethical + unpretentious + for<br />

celebrations + for af ter work + beautiful, fun,<br />

demystified wine + curated beer + craf ted<br />

cock tails + now open<br />

215 DUNDAS ST · 226 667 4822<br />




Monday–Thursday: 11:30am–9pm<br />

Friday: 11:30am–10pm<br />

Saturday: 11:30am–10pm<br />

Sunday: 11:30am–8pm<br />

NOW OPEN<br />

Reservations: 519-601-7799<br />

1140 Southdale Road West, London<br />

www.bocconcinilondon.ca<br />

Free Parking

as<br />

ams<br />

s<br />

le.<br />

Fresh Homemade Pasta & Sauces, Meatballs, Lasagnas, Salads & more!<br />

You could ride in one of these vehicles<br />

or ...<br />

You can relax and leave the driving<br />

to us!<br />

Diamondz DD provides car and driver retrieval service<br />

7 days a week, 364 days a year,<br />

in an effort to offset impaired driving statistics.<br />

Call us for information on corporate retainers<br />

and Special Event packages!<br />


519-457-9700<br />

www.diamondzdd.com<br />

Quality<br />

Convenient<br />

Meals<br />

Bring Marshalls to the Cottage!<br />

Store-made sausages & buns, Italian sandwiches, pasta<br />

trays & pasta salads. All ready to heat up on the BBQ!<br />

Convenient food everyone loves!<br />

Text MARSHALLS<br />

to 70734 for a<br />

$5.00 Off Coupon<br />

to be used in-store!<br />

Ask about Blake’s BBQ<br />

We can cater all<br />

your family functions!<br />

580 Adelaide St N, London<br />

519-672-7827<br />

MON–FRI 9:30am–7pm • SAT 9:30am–5pm • SUN 11am–5pm<br />

Full menu available at marshallspastacatering.ca<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Now that Blackfriars Bridge has reopened, it’s a<br />

perfect time to return to Betty Heydon’s acclaimed<br />

Blackfriars Bistro. One of the city’s most respected<br />

caterers, the culinary team at Blackfriars prepares<br />

innovative, seasonal blackboard specials with<br />

cutting-edge menus that respect tradition. Be sure<br />

to try Betty’s signature savoury Stilton cheesecake<br />

with heritage greens — it’s a classic. 46 Blackfriars<br />

St., 519-667-4930, blackfriarsbistro.com<br />

Chef Matt Reijnen and Jessica Washburn’s Pizzeria<br />

Madre is situated in a 130-year-old building on<br />

Wellington Street and offers an exceptional dining<br />

experience. This licensed, casual contemporary<br />

pizzeria is sophisticated and nicely appointed<br />

with high ceilings, tile floors, picture windows,<br />

whitewashed walls and a partially open kitchen.<br />

The bar and tables were custom-made from locallysourced<br />

pine. There are two chalkboards featuring<br />

beers and specialty cocktails. 111 Wellington St.,<br />

519-432-4333, pizzeriamadre.wixsite.com/book<br />

Looking for help with an event this summer?<br />

Marshalls Pasta Mill & Bakery, a family-owned<br />

restaurant, caterer and retail store of home-made<br />

pasta, house-made sausage, salads and other<br />

Italian specialties, has you covered. 580 Adelaide<br />

Street N., 519- 672-7827, marshallspastacatering.ca<br />

It isn’t too late to make your favourite wine for<br />

the summer season. Somerset Fine Wines & Gifts<br />

have rosés, sangrias, whites and reds. The staff is<br />

knowledgeable and happy to help. 150 Exeter Rd,<br />

519-652-3998, somersetfinewines.com<br />

Restaurateur Joe Duby and Chef Cynthia Beaudoin<br />

of Gnosh have established an appreciative clientele<br />

by creating a welcoming ambience where patrons<br />

can enjoy a glass of wine or a signature cocktail at<br />

the bar, a couple of small plates, or a full dining<br />

experience, in a casual yet stylish setting (the former<br />

Blu Duby premises). Gnosh is an unpretentious<br />

restaurant celebrating honest food and wine, with a<br />

sophisticated atmosphere and friendly service. Check<br />

out the patio for al fresco dining. 125 Dundas Street<br />

(with another entrance off Covent Garden Market<br />

Place) 519-601-8050, gnoshdining.com<br />

Pastry Chef Michelle Lenhardt of Rhino Lounge<br />

and Bakery recently won in the Finger Food/<br />

Chocolate category at the recent “Elles sont Food,<br />

and You?” event in Toronto. The competition is<br />

open to women chefs, sous-chefs, pastry chefs,<br />

cooks and food entrepreneurs living in Ontario and<br />

involved in the gastronomy scene. The culinary<br />

competition is an event organized by the Consulate<br />

General of France in Toronto in partnership with the<br />

Ted Rogers School of Hospitality and Management

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

at Ryerson University. The goal for the participants<br />

is to showcase the culinary culture of Ontario<br />

and/or France by creating the best cocktail party<br />

possible. For this, they relied on the specificity of<br />

French culinary culture but also on the diversity<br />

and richness of Ontario cuisine with the objective of<br />

showcasing the best local Canadian and/or French<br />

ingredients. ellessontfoodandyou.ca<br />

Union Ten Distilling Co. in Old East Village is officially<br />

open. The distillery will produce whisky, rye, rum<br />

and vodka. The team has also created the Live Edge<br />

Kitchen + Bar and the Whiskey Jack Performance<br />

Hall. “These are places where people can gather<br />

together to eat, drink and experience unique live<br />

entertainment. 656 Dundas Street. unionten.ca<br />

Join London artist Ron Benner at his garden<br />

installation As the Crow Flies for a corn roast at<br />

Museum London. Part sculpture, part installation,<br />

and part performance, this free event will feature<br />

Benner’s roving corn-roasting wagon, Maiz<br />

Barbacoa. Enjoy the acoustic sounds of Frank<br />

Risdale while eating freshly roasted corn on the<br />

cob. Sunday <strong>August</strong> 18, from 1–4pm.<br />

London Bicycle Café recently celebrated its second<br />

anniversary. 35 Clarence Street, 226-289-2670<br />

Buy Less. Choose Well.<br />

Assorted Chef’s<br />

Knife Rolls<br />

High quality, Canadian made<br />

leather goods and chef accessories<br />

Order Online or see display<br />

at Harris Electric Eatery in St. Marys<br />

haversackleather.ca<br />

I ENJOY<br />







TERA D.<br />


52 | <strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

Stereo Caliente Entertainment will host the annual<br />

Colombian Gastronomy Festival on the Covent<br />

Garden Market Square <strong>July</strong> 20 from 4pm–midnight.<br />

All are welcome for authentic Colombian food, the<br />

unique flavour of Latin music and tasty cold beer.<br />

Stratford<br />

“These are exciting times for downtown Stratford,<br />

with more new and interesting businesses, condo<br />

development, and a great interest in being in the<br />

heart of the city,” says Steve Walters, Creative<br />

Director of The Hub Fine Foods & Market on Market<br />

Square. The Hub is a corner shop with a café and<br />

bar, and features prepared take-away food, a<br />

bakery, a butcher and a market with staples like<br />

milk and bread and cheese that you can grab with<br />

your glass of crémant and a croissant, or a beer and<br />

borscht. A true believer in details, customer service<br />

and quality, Fine Foods & Market is a welcome<br />

destination for the food enthusiast”. 31 Market<br />

Place, 519-508-2337<br />

The Planet Diner, with candy-apple red upholstered<br />

booths and a 50s vibe, is warm and welcoming, with<br />

enthusiastic and well-informed staff. Owner Dee<br />

Christensen says, “This is where herbivores can<br />

bring their carnivore friends.” Most items on the<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

menu are derived from plant-based ingredients, but<br />

there are meat-based options. There’s just nothing<br />

like the Chick’un B urger made in-house with vegan<br />

buffalo butter. We are fond of the cashew-based<br />

banana split. 118 Downie Street, theplanetdiner.com<br />

Do you want to attend a world-class event that<br />

showcases and supports local agriculture and<br />

features tastings, pairings and delicious garlic<br />

dishes? Then mark your calendar for the Stratford<br />

Kiwanis Garlic Festival, September 7-8. Keep an<br />

eye on the Facebook page for updates or go to<br />

stratfordgarlicfestival.com<br />

The Slow Food Perth County Sunday Market runs<br />

10 a.m. to 2 p.m. at Market Square at City Hall. You’ll<br />

find local produce, breads, soups, sweets, crafty<br />

things, lacto-fermented foods, cheese, grass-fed<br />

meats, and garden seeds. slowfoodperthcounty.ca<br />

Stratford Farmers’ Market, a year-round market<br />

operating since 1855, offers fresh produce, crafts,<br />

meat and cheese at Stratford Rotary Complex-<br />

Agriplex, 353 McCarthy Rd, Saturdays 7 am–12<br />

noon. 519-271-5130. www.stratfordfairgrounds.com<br />

Stratford Tourism released the <strong>2019</strong> Bacon and<br />

Ale Trail with a tasting of the latest brews at Black<br />

Swan Brewery, the first craft brewery to participate<br />

Far Out ...<br />

but we like it that way!<br />

Blair Blvd<br />

London<br />

International<br />

Airport<br />

Crumlin Rd<br />

Oxford St<br />


HALF PRICE Sharing Plates & Oysters<br />

Tuesday–Friday from 3:30–5:30pm<br />


20% OFF!<br />

New Summer Menus & Cocktails!<br />

TUES–SAT Lunch & Dinner 11:30am to Close<br />

SUNDAY Brunch 11am & Dinner<br />

449 Wharncliffe Road South<br />

519.914.2699<br />

MON & TUES: Lunch 11–3<br />

WED, THURS & FRI: Lunch 11–5; Dinner 5–9<br />

Weekends: Breakfast 9–12, Lunch 12–3, Dinner 5–9<br />

Come for the planes and fall in love with the food!<br />

Patio overlooking<br />

the airport runway<br />

NOW OPEN!<br />

519-455-9005<br />

katanakafe.ca<br />

2530 Blair Blvd, London<br />

Diamond Flight Centre

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

on the trail. Jobsite Brewing and Shakespeare<br />

Brewing Company also offer exploratory flights on<br />

the trail. More tasty ways to enjoy this inspirational<br />

pairing includes Jalapeno Poppers paired with<br />

an Ontario craft beer at Boar’s Head Pub and two<br />

styles of artisan bacon paired with a local craft<br />

beer at Mercer Kitchen and Beer Hall. Delicious<br />

bacon or ale inspired soups from Soup Surreal,<br />

farm-raised McCully’s Hill Farm bacon, juicy Bacon<br />

Burgers from Best Little Pork Shoppe and Maple<br />

Bacon Onion spread or Bacon Caesar dressing<br />

from Bradshaws can be taken home to enjoy. And,<br />

of course, there is dessert! Madelyn’s amazing<br />

award-wining butter tarts and Black Angus<br />

Catering & Bakery’s bacon shortbread will make<br />

your mouth water, while take away snacks perfect<br />

for sharing include Rocky Mountain Chocolate’s<br />

bacon or craft beer toffee caramels and Small-Mart<br />

General Mercantile’s bacon-flavoured jelly beans!<br />

Finally, or maybe first, you’ll want to pick up your<br />

“beer pig” mug at Got It Made and natural beer<br />

soap with a quirky BeerMo bottle moustache at<br />

Treasures. You’ll be smiling all along the trail with<br />

these fun additions. Choose five of the 15 bacon and<br />

ale inspired treats. Meet local brewers, artisans,<br />

bakers, and food purveyors. Present one voucher<br />

at each of your selected stops for one treat within<br />

where art is<br />

Hey, Cupcake! a piece of cake<br />

The ORIGINAL<br />



BAKERY<br />

<strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 53<br />

seven days of purchase. Purchase trails at Stratford<br />

Tourism, 47 Downie Street.<br />

The Livery Yard is a great place for coffee and light<br />

refreshments in a stunning setting on the opposite<br />

corner to the Avon Theatre. 104 Downie Street.<br />

If you love cats then you’ll love Stratford’s new<br />

The Alley Cat Cafe, opening soon at the corner of<br />

Market Place and Downie Street (previously Pizza<br />

Pizza.) alleycatcafe.ca<br />

Around Our Region<br />

Chef Eric Boyar’s sixthirtynine in Woodstock<br />

delivers a homegrown Oxford County “from<br />

scratch” farm-to-table Feast On certified<br />

experience. Dedicated to building and nurturing<br />

strong personal relationships with farmers and<br />

producers, Boyar travels straight to the source to<br />

procure items for his Oxford-County-driven menus.<br />

Boyar’s Chef’s Table is set right in the heart of the<br />

kitchen, with seating for up to four guests. Tasting<br />

menus with optional wine pairings are available<br />

upon request. 639 Peel Street, Woodstock, 519-536-<br />

9602, sixthirtynine.com<br />

You’ll walk in the shoes of local cheese maker, Shep<br />

Ysselstein, when you get a behind-the-scenes look<br />

100% Local — from Our Farmers to Your Table<br />

Hormone & Drug-Free<br />

Ontario Beef, Pork, Bison, Lamb & Chicken<br />




ASK US Custom Bakery • Walk-In Orders Available<br />


“RANDOM<br />

ACTS OF<br />



www.heycupcake.ca<br />

275 Wharncliffe Rd. North<br />

519-433-CAKE (2253)<br />

STORE HOURS: Mon–Fri 11–7<br />

Saturday 10–5 • Sunday 11–4<br />


• Metzger Meat Products • Lena’s Lamb<br />

• Blanbrook Bison Farm • Little Sisters Chicken<br />

• Glengyle Farm Organics<br />

The Market at Western Fair District: SAT 8–3; SUN 10–2<br />

226-376-6328 • www.thevillagemeatshop.ca

Modern Skincare Made with Love<br />

The Forest City’s<br />

all-natural small-batch<br />

skincare company<br />

Locally Handcrafted Curated Boutique<br />

incense, home decor, DIY supplies,<br />

jewellery, crystals, tarot cards, eco-friendly<br />

items and so much more ...<br />

111 Mount Pleasant Ave., London<br />

Monday–Friday: 10AM – 6PM<br />

Saturday & Sunday: 10AM – 4PM<br />

+1 519 630 5305<br />

info@purdynatural.ca<br />

purdynatural.ca<br />

Boho Bazaar Night Market<br />

Community is our passion. We support<br />

and sell local, and create events where<br />

everyone can gather and grow together.<br />

Stay updated on events @purdynatural<br />

@bohobazaarnightmarket<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

at Gunn’s Hill Artisan Cheese. Gunn’s Hill’s latest<br />

experience, Affinage 101, explores the art of aging<br />

cheese. You’ll get a chance to see what happens<br />

after the curds and whey have been separated<br />

and the wheels have been pressed. You’ll learn<br />

how aging a wheel affects the taste profile and the<br />

care that goes into this part of the cheese making<br />

process. Want to book your spot in an Affinage 101<br />

experience? Head over to gunnshillcheese.ca.<br />

Hessenland Inn is celebrating their 35th<br />

anniversary in <strong>2019</strong> while welcoming their next<br />

chapter: the opening of their boutique vineyard,<br />

Schatz Winery. Hessenland’s popular Mongolian<br />

Grill — garden-side dining — is back for a 12th<br />

season. Every Thursday evening through <strong>July</strong><br />

and <strong>August</strong>, Mongolian Grill offers a delicious<br />

opportunity for guests to design their own<br />

signature dish from the freshest ingredients.<br />

Curate your plate and let Chef Frank Ihrig and<br />

his crew grill and season your dish to perfection<br />

at the outdoor grilling station. “Wein and Dine<br />

Wednesdays” (<strong>July</strong> 17 & <strong>August</strong> 14) feature long<br />

table dinners in the vineyard, with live music<br />

and special menus paired with fine local wines.<br />

Reservations required. hessenland.com<br />

We are hearing great reports about the menus and<br />

ambience at Jordi Carr and Natalie Crittenden’s<br />

Harris Electric Eatery in St. Marys. Here’s an<br />

enticing way to support underprivileged boys in the<br />

Dominican Republic (DR) while enjoying an exciting<br />

night of Dominican-inspired food, drink and music.<br />

Harris Electric Eatery is hosting a community<br />

fundraising dinner for InspireDR on Sunday, <strong>August</strong><br />

18. There will be two seatings (5 and 7:30pm).<br />

Tickets are $50 each for dinner, dessert and a<br />

welcome cocktail. 519-914-8811, 159 Queen St. E.,<br />

St. Marys, harriselectriceatery.com<br />

We love to pop by Streamliners Espresso Bar in St.<br />

Thomas for their hand-brewed Las Chicas Del Café<br />

coffee and fresh pastries. The Specialty Coffee Association<br />

of Canada recently announced that Anderson<br />

Hall at the CASO Station will be the location for<br />

2020 Eastern Qualifiers of Canada’s National Barista<br />

Championship September 8–10. Maria Fiallos of Las<br />

Chicas Del Cafe and Streamliners spearheaded the<br />

effort to bring this exciting event to St. Thomas from.<br />

The event is appropriately nicknamed “Steam.” 767<br />

Talbot Street, St. Thomas, 519-631-0999<br />

Steelhead Food Co. recently opened its own processing<br />

facility with a Fish and Seafood Market offering<br />

fresh locally-processed fish. Located in St. Thomas,<br />

Steelhead provides a selection of premium quality fish<br />

and seafood — fresh, frozen, and smoked. 5 Barrie<br />

Blvd, St. Thomas, 226-237-3474, steelheadfoodco.ca

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

The lavender will be blooming later this year, right<br />

through <strong>July</strong>, in the serene gardens of Steed &<br />

Co. Lavender just outside Sparta in Elgin County.<br />

The annual Lavender Fairy Festival will be held<br />

on Saturday, <strong>August</strong> 10, from noon to 4pm, with<br />

an afternoon filled with fairy fun and lore. Don’t<br />

forget your wings! Pirates are also always welcome.<br />

Children $5, parents and grandparents are free.<br />

47589 Sparta Line, steedandcompany.com<br />

Alton Farms Estate Winery has extended its hours,<br />

and is now open Wednesday–Sunday, noon–6pm. On<br />

<strong>July</strong> 6 a pig roast will feature Cowbell Brewing Co.,<br />

Stonepicker Brewing Co. and cheeses from Great<br />

Lakes Goat Dairy. This family-friendly event will offer<br />

various activities, live music, hiking opportunities, and<br />

more. 5547 Aberarder Line, Plympton-Wyoming, 519-<br />

899-2479, altonfarmestatewinery.com<br />

We want your BUZZ!<br />

Do you have culinary news or upcoming events<br />

that you’d like us to share?<br />

Every issue, <strong>Eatdrink</strong> reaches more than<br />

50,000 readers across Southwestern Ontario<br />

in print, and thousands more online.<br />

Get in touch with us at editor@eatdrink.ca<br />

Submission deadline for the next issue: <strong>August</strong> 5<br />

Destination for the food lover<br />

Featuring specialty foods,<br />

kitchenwares, tablewares,<br />

cooking classes and gift baskets.<br />

115 King St., London Ontario<br />

jillstable.ca 519-645-1335<br />

EatDrinkAd_<strong>2019</strong>.indd 1 <strong>2019</strong>-06-18 11:37

56 | <strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

Music<br />

The Sounds of Summer<br />

Music Festival Season Is Here<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />


Music festival season is<br />

here. Send up a cheer.<br />

Sunfest, Home County,<br />

Rock The Park. And one<br />

we sometimes take for granted but<br />

shouldn’t: Stratford Summer Music.<br />

SSM, now in its 19th year, runs<br />

at indoor and outdoor venues<br />

around the city from <strong>July</strong> 15 to<br />

<strong>August</strong> 25 — 100 events in total.<br />

Under new artistic director Mark<br />

Fewer, it covers the waterfront —<br />

jazz, classical, avant garde, singersongwriter,<br />

funk, cabaret. Etcetera.<br />

“We have so much to look forward<br />

to this summer that to say we’re<br />

excited would be an understatement,”<br />

Fewer says. “As well as the greatest<br />

variety of any summer music festival<br />

in the country and the most free<br />

programming, we have new initiatives<br />

that focus on youth, music and health<br />

— and original productions you won’t<br />

hear anywhere else.”<br />

For a full run-down, see the SSM<br />

website: stratfordsummermusic.ca.<br />

In the meantime, here’s some of the<br />

coolest stuff. Let’s look first at some<br />

interesting food and drink tie-ins.<br />

The Prune restaurant, doyenne of<br />

upscale Stratford eateries, hosts 11<br />

a.m. Saturday brunches with musical<br />

entertainment from <strong>July</strong> 20 to <strong>August</strong><br />

24. The first, with cellist Stéphane<br />

Tétreault playing Bach, is sold out,<br />

and some others were close to selling<br />

out at time of writing.<br />

So don’t dawdle.<br />

The theme this<br />

year is deep strings.<br />

Performers include<br />

London-born Andrew<br />

Downing on double<br />

bass (<strong>August</strong> 17), two<br />

more solo bassists<br />

Mark Fewer<br />

— Joseph Phillips<br />

(<strong>August</strong> 3) and Clark Schaufele,<br />

who also sings (<strong>August</strong> 10) — and<br />

cellist Thomas Wiebe (<strong>August</strong><br />

24). For something less stringy,<br />

there’s percussionist Graham<br />

Hargrove (<strong>July</strong> 27).<br />

Revival House, formerly the<br />

Church Restaurant, has its Friday<br />

Night Live jazz series starting<br />

<strong>July</strong> 19, 9 p.m. As usual with<br />

Revival House, you can take in<br />

the music only or<br />

Tom Allen<br />

have dinner too for<br />

a package price.<br />

Performers<br />

include innovative<br />

pianist-composer<br />

Stephen<br />

Prutsman (<strong>July</strong> 19),<br />

Duane Andrews<br />

playing his<br />

surprising blend of<br />

Bohemians in Brooklyn<br />

Celtic and gypsy jazz<br />

(<strong>July</strong> 26), the Phil Dwyer Trio, led by the 11-time Juno<br />

winning saxophonist (<strong>August</strong> 2), and jazz vocals with<br />

Newfoundland’s Heather Bambrick backed by the<br />

Jodi Proznick Trio (<strong>August</strong> 9).<br />

One of the more intriguing events<br />

in the series — and at SSM <strong>2019</strong> — is<br />

Bohemians in Brooklyn, a cabaret with<br />

Tom Allen & Co. It tells the story, in music<br />

and words, of the Brooklyn NY house<br />

where a fascinating and eclectic crew of<br />

artists lived in the 1940s.

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 57<br />

The Friday Night Live closer (<strong>August</strong> 23) is Rhapsody<br />

in Blue/Brazilian Jazz, featuring an all-star band with<br />

John Novacek (piano), James Campbell (clarinet),<br />

Graham Campbell (guitar) and Mark Fewer (violin).<br />

SSM is the only festival (we know of) that has<br />

its own special craft<br />

Laila Biali<br />

brew: Saison 19 from<br />

Stratford’s Herald Haus<br />

Brewing Company.<br />

Sample it at the<br />

brewery or The Hub<br />

Pub & Patio.<br />

SSM has big-name<br />

concerts too. Laila<br />

Biali, <strong>2019</strong> Juno winner<br />

for jazz, is there. The<br />

raven-haired chanteuse plays<br />

The Avondale on Wednesday<br />

<strong>July</strong> 31 at 7 p.m.<br />

On Wednesday, <strong>July</strong> 24 (7<br />

p.m.), two original Barenaked<br />

Ladies, Andy and Jim<br />

Creeggan, bring the family<br />

duo, the Brothers Creeggan<br />

to The Avondale. They’re<br />

joined by guests: CBC Radio<br />

2 announcer Tom Allen on<br />

trombone, Robert Carli on<br />

Ben Heppner<br />

saxophone and SSM artistic<br />

director Mark<br />

Fewer on<br />

violin. Expect<br />

eclectic.<br />

Canadian<br />

opera superstar<br />

(and CBC<br />

broadcaster)<br />

Ben Heppner<br />

Old Dominion<br />

appears in O<br />

Happy Day!,<br />

a rousing afternoon<br />

of gospel — one of<br />

Hepner’s earliest<br />

influences — featuring<br />

The Toronto<br />

Mass Choir. That’s<br />

on Saturday, <strong>July</strong> 27, 3<br />

Steven Page<br />

p.m. at The Avondale.<br />

More festivals?<br />

Sunfest, <strong>July</strong> 4 to 7 at Victoria Park, will likely be<br />

done and dusted by the time you read this. But just in<br />

case, look for popular returning Canadian world music<br />

stars like Lazo, Five Alarm Funk and London’s own<br />

Light of the East Ensemble.<br />

Lots of exciting visitors from distant parts too: kicky<br />

Latin jazz combo CaboCubaJazz from Cape Verde,<br />

Russia’s Namgar, a four-piece group<br />

playing traditional Mongolian music<br />

— bet you haven’t heard that before<br />

— and The Turbans from Britain,<br />

a big group, in every way, blending<br />

music from…all over. That’s three of 25,<br />

chosen almost at random. There’s lots<br />

more. So go.<br />

Rock the Park — officially start.<br />

ca Rocks the Park — runs <strong>July</strong> 10 to<br />

13 at Harris Park. As usual, there’s<br />

something for everyone.<br />

Wednesday is country music night.<br />

Hot breaking band Old Dominion,<br />

winner of the Academy of Country<br />

Music and the Country Music<br />

Association Vocal Group of the Year<br />

award in 2018, headlines. James<br />

Barker Band, another hot one, and<br />

Canadian too, is there. How hot? JBB<br />

boasts 48 million online streams, and<br />

counting.<br />

Thursday is rock night. Expect<br />

edges. Unlikely multi-platinum charttopping<br />

hard-rockers Five Finger<br />

Death Punch are coming — and no<br />

doubt will play material from their<br />

latest (2018) release And Justice For<br />

None. In This Moment “unearth a<br />

furious and focused feminine fire<br />

from a cauldron of jagged heavy<br />

metal, hypnotic alternative, and<br />

smoky voodoo blues” — to quote the<br />

appropriately purple prose of their<br />

promotional material.<br />

Friday and Saturday are mostly<br />

about rap and hip-hop. The big name:<br />

multi-award winner Snoop Dogg,<br />

who has a mere 35 million albums<br />

sold to his credit. Grammy- and Junowinner<br />

Shaggy is also coming. Ma$e,<br />

the pastor, rapper and frequent comeback<br />

artist is here. He released a new<br />

album in 2018, Don’t Need Security, his<br />

first since 2004. So he’s back, again.<br />

Home County Art and Music<br />

Festival, the 46th edition, is at<br />

Victoria Park <strong>July</strong> 19 to 21. The lineup<br />

wasn’t finalized at the time of writing.<br />

Ex-Barenaked Lady Steven Page is<br />

back for sure. Page has a new album,<br />

Discipline: Heal Thyself, Pt. II, which<br />

dropped September 2018.<br />

Ageless children’s entertainer Fred<br />

Penner will be there. (Actually, he’s<br />

72.) Fans of his 1985-1997 TV show

58 | <strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Shaggy<br />

The Small Glories<br />

Five Finger Death Punch<br />

— Fred-heads — are now in their twenties<br />

and thirties. Their kids will love him.<br />

Dynamite Americana duo The Small Glories<br />

from Winnipeg — banjoist Cara Luft, a<br />

founding member of The Wailin’ Jennies,<br />

and guitarist JD Edwards — bring their<br />

Appalachian-tinged harmonies.<br />

Toronto’s House of David Gang should<br />

have the crowd up and dancing with classic<br />

1970s–’80s reggae. Delhi2Dublin will be there<br />

with a strange and wonderful mash-up of<br />

Indian Bhangra music, Celtic fiddling, and a few<br />

From our farm to your table ...<br />

Award winning hand crafted<br />

alpine style cheese<br />

Fresh Cheese Curds<br />

Cheese Tastings<br />

Gift Baskets &<br />

Gift Boxes<br />

Cheese Trays<br />

Fondue & Raclette<br />

other flavours thrown in for good measure. The<br />

list goes on. Check homecounty.ca for updates.<br />

Not the festive type?<br />

For fairly comprehensive local live music<br />

listings, go to ontariolivemusic.ca (plug in<br />

“London,” “Stratford” or any other location<br />

and your desired dates), or the Tourism<br />

London music page: bit.ly/2JZJ6Rr.<br />

GERRY BLACKWELL is a London-based freelance<br />

writer.<br />

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Stonetown Artisan Cheese<br />

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eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 59<br />

Theatre<br />

This Summer’s Theatre<br />

Thought-Provoking, Cringe-Inducing, and Funny<br />


Death of an elephant. Farce at a funeral. Racism<br />

and misogyny in the media. Plays with these<br />

themes, which are on three stages in Southern<br />

Ontario, all share one goal: to make you ponder,<br />

cringe and laugh. Buckle up and get ready for some<br />

thought-provoking farcical comedy this summer with<br />

Jumbo at the Blyth Festival, It’s Your Funeral at Port Stanley<br />

Festival and The Front Page at the Stratford Festival as our<br />

mid- to late-summer openers.<br />

Sean Dixon says he wanted to write a play about how<br />

a group of people would deal with a death crisis. He<br />

stumbled across the story of Jumbo the elephant, who<br />

died in St. Thomas while part of the touring Barnum<br />

circus in the late 1800s. “I was intrigued with the idea<br />

that the show must go on in this little town in Ontario<br />

while coping with a crisis, and how it would impact the<br />

townspeople and how they respond to it,” says Dixon.<br />

With support from Gil Garrett, artistic director at Blyth,<br />

some seed money from The Grand Theatre in London<br />

through the Ontario Arts Council, and research support<br />

from Steve Peters,<br />

former mayor of<br />

St. Thomas and<br />

MPP for the region<br />

(and a huge Jumbo<br />

historian) Dixon<br />

Sean Dixon<br />

took several years<br />

to write Jumbo.<br />

Garret is directing<br />

the world premiere<br />

at Blyth. It includes<br />

impressive puppetry,<br />

incredible costumes<br />

for circus characters,<br />

and more.<br />

While circuses<br />

and the use of<br />

live animals as<br />

entertainment have<br />

diminished greatly<br />

since Barnum days,<br />

Dixon feels the story<br />

has an important<br />

message today. “It became more<br />

of a portrait of Jumbo rather than<br />

about a group of people in crisis. It<br />

is about how Jumbo affected these<br />

people in life and death — he moved<br />

to the centre of it,” says Dixon.<br />

“It’s a touching story where<br />

people try to be good to one<br />

another. It’s not a circus, it’s a<br />

play. We’re trying to bring a bit<br />

of spectacle to telling a story.<br />

There’s an adventure aspect to it.<br />

It’s funny and there are good guys<br />

and bad guys in it — the world<br />

of managers up against the world<br />

of circus. In the end you realize<br />

people can come together.”<br />

Jumbo, until <strong>August</strong> 10 at Blyth Festival<br />

Theatre<br />

Jamie Williams knows a lot about<br />

acting in comedic farces. The longtime<br />

actor has been in nearly two<br />

dozen, including many by the<br />

popular Canadian playwright Norm<br />

Foster. Now, he’s taken a turn as<br />

playwright with his first produced<br />

comedy, It’s Your Funeral, directed<br />

by Simon Joynes at the Port<br />

Stanley Festival Theatre.<br />

“As far I can see the higher the<br />

stakes in a farce the funnier it is.<br />

When we are stressed out and<br />

we’re stuck for time there is a lot of<br />

opportunity for misunderstanding.<br />

When I looked at writing the farce<br />

I wanted something that was high<br />

stakes. That, plus I also thought<br />

that a funeral home would be a<br />

different and exciting setting for a<br />

farce,” says Williams.<br />

Enter George and Helen, trying<br />

to restart their lives by going into<br />

the death business. Set in the 1950s

60 | <strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

slowed down by the lack of technology.”<br />

Williams says he is excited to see what Joynes does<br />

with the play. “He has a great eye and mind for farce<br />

so I really trust him with this. I can’t wait to sit in the<br />

audience this time and enjoy it!”<br />

It’s Your Funeral, <strong>August</strong> 14 to September 7 at Port Stanley<br />

Festival Theatre<br />

Jamie Williams<br />

in their new funeral home, the story<br />

focuses on the way the business had<br />

been operated by the former owner.<br />

Unlike British farces, this one is set in<br />

Canada — so no strained accents. “To<br />

write a farce in modern day is difficult<br />

because cell phones and computers<br />

make it easy to connect today so it’s<br />

harder to misunderstand and hide and<br />

cover up. Dating it in the 1950s puts<br />

it in a period of time where things are<br />

In these times of fake news on digital media, can a<br />

play from 1928 be modernized and made relevant<br />

for today’s audience? Bring on The Front Page at<br />

the Stratford Festival. There is sure to be plenty of<br />

interest in this rarely-produced play, which became<br />

famous in 1931 as a film.<br />

It has been adapted by Michael Healey and is<br />

being directed by long-time Shakespearean actor,<br />

TV actor and recent director Graham Abbey. He’s a<br />

busy guy these days. Abbey is playing in The Merry<br />

Wives of Windsor at Stratford, he runs The Festival<br />

Players in Prince Edward County this summer (four<br />

shows), and he also directs Shakespeare in Toronto’s<br />

Groundling Theatre. And he has a four-year-old child.<br />

No wonder he’s taken an office in Stratford (his<br />

hometown). “I am absolutely crazy! It looked better<br />

on paper! Thankfully, I have lots of help,” he says.<br />

Shaw Festival Theatre did a version of The Front Page<br />


FROM JUNE 12 TO SEPTEMBER 28, <strong>2019</strong><br />

1.877.862.5984 BLYTHFESTIVAL.COM<br />



eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2019</strong> | 61<br />

in 1994 but it<br />

is not a play<br />

you see that<br />

often. “That’s<br />

really exciting<br />

for me,” says<br />

Abbey. “It’s a<br />

great comedy<br />

but a really<br />

great story.<br />

It has a lot<br />

of humanity<br />

and hopefully<br />

lots of<br />

laughs.”<br />

This is<br />

Graham Abbey the first<br />

farce of this<br />

magnitude for Abbey as a director. He knows<br />

the rhythms as an actor but he says he<br />

“certainly will be cutting my teeth in several<br />

directions” including directing his spouse,<br />

Michelle Giroux, as well as Stratford veterans<br />

Juan Chioran and Ben Carlson.<br />

While the story fits the original era of the<br />

1920s and ’30s, including dealing with racism<br />

<strong>2019</strong><br />

SEASON<br />

and misogyny, Abbey says it makes sense<br />

for Stratford to put this on now as Healey<br />

has modernized some of the story by adding<br />

two roles: a female reporter and an African<br />

American reporter.<br />

“Live theatre will always have a sense of<br />

commune — everything is alive and in the<br />

moment. When it is alive and clicking it’s<br />

like nothing else. This is an amazing era to<br />

play in — 1920s Chicago is a smorgasbord<br />

of excitement; it’s a world we don’t see, but<br />

it is relevant. It’s hard with a comedy as you<br />

have to keep it light but you can’t ignore the<br />

elephant in the room. We’re not steering the<br />

original script far from where it was. We do<br />

step in the Trumpian age of fake news. We<br />

haven’t had to step out too far as these [media<br />

corruption and justice] issues are still coming<br />

back around or have never gone away.”<br />

The Front Page <strong>July</strong> 30 – October 25 at Stratford<br />

Festival Theatre<br />

JANE ANTONIAK is a regular contributor to <strong>Eatdrink</strong>.<br />

She is also Manager, Communications & Media Relations,<br />

at King’s University College in London.<br />

PortStanleyFestivalTheatre<br />

Reserve Tickets 519-782-4353 www.psft.ca<br />


GivinG Up The GhosT<br />

by Arlin Dixon & Matthew Gorman <strong>July</strong> 3 to <strong>July</strong> 20<br />

A comedy about freedom, fresh starts & things that go bump in the night!<br />

Ed’s GaraGE<br />

show sponsor<br />

by Dan Needles <strong>July</strong> 24 to <strong>August</strong> 10<br />

Ed used to be a farmer, now he’s an entrepreneur... or is he a therapist?<br />

This quirky comedy is sure to delight!<br />

show sponsor<br />

It’s Your Funeral<br />

by Jamie Williams <strong>August</strong> 14 to September 7<br />

A fun filled romp! Join us for our season closer & enjoy a wild ride!<br />

show sponsor

62 | <strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

The Lighter Side<br />

Not Today’s White Bread<br />


I<br />

don’t know the difference between<br />

couscous and quinoa. Actually, I<br />

had never heard these words until<br />

my youngest daughter attended the<br />

esteemed Stratford Chefs School. Nor did<br />

I realize what an abysmal cook I was. Early<br />

in class each student was asked by Chef to<br />

prepare a traditional family meal from their<br />

childhood. My daughter chose ham and<br />

scalloped potatoes and lemon meringue pie,<br />

our traditional special occasion dinner. When<br />

Chef deemed the meal boring, brown, and all<br />

the same texture, she was highly insulted.<br />

The meal we now fondly refer to as “the<br />

brown meal” would become an enduring<br />

family joke. Years later, when<br />

interviewed by <strong>Eatdrink</strong><br />

magazine, she described<br />

growing up in a white<br />

bread culture. Not today’s<br />

white bread, naan, focaccia or ciabatta, but<br />

the Wonder Bread variety. Who knew?<br />

In the first year of chef school my Christmas<br />

gift was ginger dipped in Callebaut, the<br />

renowned Belgian couverture chocolate. I<br />

impress myself just writing these words.<br />

Really! Chocolate to me at the time was a Big<br />

Turk chocolate bar. The same Christmas, we<br />

were treated to handmade Armagnac ice cream.<br />

I learned that Armagnac is produced in one of<br />

the oldest distilleries in France. A fourteenthcentury<br />

cardinal described two of its forty<br />

virtues as “preserving youth and delaying<br />

senility.” Grounds, I believed, for at least one<br />

more serving.<br />

Aside from these brilliant additions to my<br />

culinary lexicon, these thoughtful gifts were<br />

the beginning of my journey to gastronomic<br />

nirvana.<br />

Lemon pie à la Sherriff’s pie filling in a<br />

Crisco crust has become a tangy lemon curd on<br />

tender shortbread. Potato salad smothered in<br />

Hellmann’s has been transformed to become<br />

salade niçoise with fingerling potatoes, Roma<br />

tomatoes, capers, and anchovies dressed in<br />

a simple lemon vinaigrette — although I’m<br />

told potatoes are a non-traditional ingredient.<br />

Thanksgiving turkey with a generous helping<br />

of gravy to disguise its dryness has become<br />

deboned and brined organic turkey laid<br />

on a bed of dressing and cooked to a moist<br />

succulence which defies description. I must add<br />

here however, that my potato bread dressing is<br />

still a hit with the family, though for how much<br />

longer I cannot say.<br />

Fast forward twenty years. My daughter<br />

is now an accomplished chef, having worked<br />

in some of London’s finest restaurants, and<br />

teaching culinary arts to<br />

aspiring chefs. Food has its<br />

own network and celebrity<br />

chefs have become rock<br />

stars. I still make “the<br />

brown meal” on occasion and<br />

we still laugh. I have learned<br />

a lot. I never say I don’t care for something,<br />

like Brussels sprouts for example; when<br />

sautéed in maple syrup and a bit of unsalted<br />

butter they make my mouth water.<br />

For dinner tonight she prepared<br />

shakshouka, a perfectly formed poached egg in<br />

tomato sauce topped with spinach, an “easy”<br />

Monday night dinner (so she says) served<br />

with crisp green beans that my son-in-law<br />

had picked. When I noted how well the two<br />

went together her comment was simply, “You<br />

would think I knew what I was doing.” I always<br />

laugh when she says this but my favourite<br />

is when I’m in awe of something she does in<br />

the kitchen and with a little grin she says,<br />

“trained professional.” I think this “trained<br />

professional” should make her mother a nice<br />

couscous salad for dinner ... and perhaps her<br />

signature lemon tart for dessert.<br />

Like many women of her generation, LINDA<br />

OLAVESON learned to cook from the pages of the<br />

Five Roses or Purity Flour cookbooks, meals consisting<br />

mostly of meat and potatoes and a limited selection of<br />

vegetables. However she believes that thanks to her<br />

daughter’s guidance, there may be hope for her yet.

LONDON’S<br />

Local Flavour<br />

VOLUME 7<br />

Restaurants • Specialty Shops & Services<br />

Craft Beer & Wine • Farmers’ Markets<br />

Do You Have Your Copy Yet?<br />

All profiles also available at localflavour.ca<br />

NEW!<br />

More to Explore!<br />

Recommended<br />

Culinary<br />

Neighbours<br />








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