Eatdrink #78 July/August 2019

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Issue Magazine #78 | July/August 2019 

eatdrink 

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine 

July/August 2019 | 1 

Global Cuisine Takes Flight 

Katana Kafé 

& Grill in London 

FEATURING 

A Guide to Bayfield 

What, Where, and Why 

Stratford Next-Gen Chefs 

Inspired, and Inspiring 

Exploring Essex County 

It’s Worth Another Visit 

Serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario since 2007 

www.eatdrink.ca

2 | July/August 2019 

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag 

Stratford’s 

#nextgen chefs are here 

VisitStratford.ca

July 19 TH – August 11 TH 2019


eatdrink 

 

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine 


eatdrinkmagazine 

@eatdrinkmag 

eatdrinkmag 

eatdrink.ca 

Think Global. Read Local. 

Publisher 

Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca 

Managing Editor Cecilia Buy – cbuy@eatdrink.ca 

Food Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca 

Copy Editor Kym Wolfe 

Social Media Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca 

Advertising Sales Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca 

Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca 

Stacey McDonald – stacey@eatdrink.ca 

Terry-Lynn “TL” Sim – TL@eatdrink.ca 

Finances 

Ann Cormier – finance@eatdrink.ca 

Graphics 

Chris McDonell, Cecilia Buy 

Writers 

Jane Antoniak, Gerry Blackwell, 

Tanya Chopp, Gary Killops, 

Bryan Lavery, George Macke, 

Linda Olaveson, Sue Sutherland Wood 

Photographers Terry Manzo, Doug North 

Telephone & Fax 519-434-8349 

Mailing Address 525 Huron Street, London ON N5Y 4J6 

Website 

City Media, Cecilia Buy 

Social Media Mind Your Own Business 

Printing 

Sportswood Printing 

OUR COVER 

Many of the staff 

from London’s 

Katana Kafé & Grill 

strike a pose on 

a Diamond Flight 

Centre exit runway 

just outside the 

restaurant’s patio. 

Photo by Tony Boros. 

© 2019 Eatdrink Inc. and the writers. 

All rights reserved. 

Reproduction or duplication of any material published in Eatdrink 

or on Eatdrink.ca is strictly prohibited without the written permission 

of the Publisher. Eatdrink has a printed circulation of 20,000 

issues published six times annually in each of two markets, for a total 

of 240,000 copies in print. The views or opinions expressed in the 

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eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine March/April July/August 2019 | 5 

STREET FOOD 

SUNDAY 

JUNE 30–SEPT. 1 

Food Trucks • Vendors 

Live Music • Craft Beer 

Rescues • Vendors 

Craft Beer • Food



Contents 

Issue #78 | July/August 2019 

Publisher’s Notes 

The Summer Issue 

Enjoying a Most Wonderful 

Time of the Year 

By CHRIS McDONELL 

8 

10 

Beer 

Season of Fruitfulness 

Summer Beers with a 

Little Extra Flavour 

By GEORGE MACKE 

37 

Food Writer at Large 



By BRYAN LAVERY 

10 

Restaurants 


Katana Kafé & Grill, in London 

By TANYA CHOPP 

18 

Spotlight 




21 

New Hotspots 

Four Noteworthy Additions 

By THE EDITORS 

26 

Road Trips 


It’s Worth Another Visit 

By SUE SUTHERLAND WOOD 

28 

18 

21 

26 

28 

28 

56 

Wine 

Discover Ontario Gewürtztraminer 

Style? Versatile! 

By GARY KILLOPS 

40 

The BUZZ 

Culinary Community Notes 

New and Notable 

44 

Music 

The Sounds of Summer 

Festival Season is Here 

By GERRY BLACKWELL 

56 

Theatre 

This Summer’s Theatre 

Thought-Provoking, Cringe-Inducing, 

and Funny 

By JANE ANTONIAK 

59 

The Lighter Side 

Not Today’s White Bread 

By LINDA OVALESON 

62 

59 

37 

40

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine 


WE SPEAK THE GOOD 

FOOD LANGUAGE 

Come & sample our 

New Seasonal Menu! 

FOR RESERVATIONS CALL 

519-430-6414 

/Blakes2ndFloor 

¦


Publisher’s Notes 

The Summer Issue 

Enjoying a Most Wonderful Time of the Year 

By CHRIS McDONELL 


It’s hard to believe that summer is actually 

here after such a reticent spring season, 

but I must remind you to grab every 

moment of this glorious time of the year 

with gusto. Actually, this issue does that, in 

spades. Each story encourages exploration 

in ways that we’re sure will enhance your 

appreciation of the season and our local 

culture. As usual, our emphasis is on all things 

culinary, but music and theatre are also firmly 

linked to dining and a drink for many of us. 

You will see those connections here. 

Feeling a little footloose? For a trip just a 

little “out there,” check out Tanya Chopp’s 

profile of Katana Kafé out by the London 

International Airport. Bryan Lavery takes 

us along to explore the myriad charms of 

Bayfield. He also introduces us to many of 

Stratford’s “next-gen” chefs, and with Stratford 

Summer Music along with Stratford Festival 

in full stride, I imagine many of you will head 

that way soon. Sue Sutherland-Wood took a 

journey into Essex County and we were almost 

overwhelmed by the number of gems she found 

just along the Kingsville-to-Amherstburg route. 

These stories are just some of the highlights of 

an issue jammed with summer ideas. 

Enjoy! 

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TEACHING THE MEDICINE OF THE FUTURE



Food Writer at Large 



By BRYAN LAVERY | Photos by TERRY MANZO 

The modern gastro movement 

began nearly twenty years ago in 

some of the world’s top kitchens. 

Groundbreaking 

technical applications to 

cuisine by boundary-pushing 

visionaries Ferran Adria, 

René Redzepi, Grant Achatz, 

and Heston Blumenthal 

revolutionized and scandalized 

the culinary world. Enthusiasm 

for a new Modernist Cuisine 

was based on a philosophical 

understanding of food science 

and gastronomy. Success 

came using non-traditional 

ingredients and experimental 

methods rooted in technical 

innovations and multiple 

scientific disciplines. 

Restaurateur David 

Chang of Momofuku Noodle 

Bar was working on what 

Redzepi, in The Noma Guide to 

Fermentation, calls a “parallel 

track,” introducing the concept 

of microbial terroir, the hidden 

world of mould, yeast and 

bacteria for fermentation. And 

of course there was chef, writer 

and travel documentarian 

Anthony Bourdain, with a laser 

focus on global culture, cuisine 

and the human condition. He 

remains a powerful influence 

for next generation chefs (nextgen 

chefs.) 

At the former Church 

Restaurant in Stratford, a dozen 

or so years ago, Chef Amédé 

Lamarche introduced molecular gastronomy 

on his tasting menus to both excitement 

and collective head scratching. Lamarche, 

Coordinator of Culinary Programs at Conestoga 

College and an uncompromising trailblazer, 

continues to be been instrumental in educating 

the next generation of chef 

visionaries. 

Speaking of pioneering 

innovators, I recently caught 

up with Chef Danijel “Dacha” 

Markovic at the Terroir 2019 

Symposium in Toronto. 

Markovic (a chef’s chef) 

left London’s former iconic 

Black George Restaurant 

Ryan O’Donnell 

Meaghan Evely 

Jeremy Hayton 

and went on to work as an 

“extreme bush cook,” then 

worked alongside Chef Jason 

Bangerter at Langdon Hall. 

Now entrenched at Fogo 

Island Inn beside Executive 

Chef Jonathan Gushue, he 

utilizes ingredients dictated 

by the Island’s “still-wild” 

terrain to produce dishes 

grounded and articulated in 

the seasons and terroir. 

Cutting-edge chefs 

advancing the concept of 

modernist cuisine in our 

neck of the woods include 

Stratford’s Arron Carley 

of The Bruce Hotel. Carley 

defines and interprets “New 

Canadiana” on his terms 

rather than emulating 

mentors like René Redzepi of 

Noma, where he once staged. 

Chef Kris Schlotzhauer 

burnished his name and 

reputation at Toronto’s 

Enoteca Sociale before 

returning to Stratford a few years ago. As a 

vocal champion for fair working hours and pay 

he opened Stratford’s AO Pasta on Erie Street,


where he calls his 

own shots and 

makes work/life 

balance a priority. 

This year, 

Stratford Tourism 

Alliance celebrates 

next-gen chefs 

in the annual 

Stratford Culinary 

Heather MacArthur guide, a go-to staple 

source of insider 

information. 

The 25th edition was launched at a pop-up 

at Richmond Station in Toronto, owned 

by Stratford Chefs School graduates and 

partners, Ryan Donovan and Carl Heinrich. 

We caught up with Stratford Chefs School 

alumni chefs Jamie Crosby of The Prune, 

Meaghan Evely and Vincent Stacey from Pazzo 

Taverna & Pizzeria, and Ryan McDonnell 

of Mercer Hall. The 2019 guide celebrates 

twelve next-gens in photos by photographer 

and alumnus Terry Manzo. The print version 

features owner Trena Hough of The Pulp 

Fresh Bar, Suzie Svetlana Christensen and 

“A fun place to shop 

for housewares and gifts!” 

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Dee Christensen of Planet Diner, Kitchen 

Manager Jill Thorpe of York 

Street Kitchen, owner Heather 

McArthur of Grounded, and 

Loreena Miller (formerly of 

Revival House). 

One of Stratford Tourism’s 

featured next-gen chefs 

is Windsor Hospitality 

Group’s Executive Chef Ryan 

O’Donnell. He works hard 

to incorporate the farm-totable 

ideals espoused by the 

Stratford Chefs School while 

creating synergies for the 

culinary teams at The Prune, 

Bar One Fifty One, Mercer 

Kitchen and York Street 

Kitchen. O’Donnell’s clever 

menus feature locally-procured 

products from in and around 

Stratford, reflecting his focus 

and passion and a dedicated 

vision to building community 

in Stratford and beyond. 

Jamie Crosby leads the 

culinary team at The Prune as chef de cuisine. 


Raised in rural Huron County, Crosby worked 

at Eigensinn Farm and Haisai 

for Chef Michael Stadtländer 

in 2013, and did a threemonth 

Stage at Noma in 

2014 before taking over as 

chef at The Little Inn of 

Bayfield in 2015. 

Another featured chef is 

Jeremy Hayton of Stratford’s 

Mill Stone, who literally 

walked through the kitchen 

Suzi Christensen door to assist on a busy night 

and never looked back. Three 

years later he is a staunch 

proponent of sourcing 

Trina Hough 

ingredients locally and has 

introduced his new-found 

passions for a late-night 

Laotian menu, a MexiLao 

menu and an all-day taco 

menu. 

Recently, listening to chef 

panellists at the Culinary 

Confederation Annual 

Conference in Niagara 

Falls, I was reminded of the many types of 

Globally inspired; locally sourced. 

An eclectic array of tapas, tacos, & plates; 

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intergenerational dynamics relating to kitchen 

disciplines. The next-gens tend to avoid the 

negative old school attitudes and habits that 

were present in some kitchens: misogyny, 

homophobia, excessive hours of labour, and lack 

of work/life balance. 

With advances in POS terminals, online 

reservation systems, handheld server tablets, 

touchscreen terminals, kitchen display 

screens and inventory control, have come 

innovative and state-of-the-art kitchen 

tools and techniques that came into the 

forefront when the methods of molecular 

gastronomy and modernist cuisine became 

viable concepts. Until recently there were no 

reverse spherification or sodium alginate to 

turn liquids into stable edible spheres. There 

were no vacuum chamber sealers, smoking gun 

infusers, refractometers, high-precision digital 

thermometers, culinary torches or Instagram 

accounts to document everything. There 

wasn’t the ubiquity of producer-only farmers’ 

markets or farmers selling their goods directly 

to chefs. The farm-to-table and the local food 

movements were not mainstream. 

Chef Randi Rudner graduated from the 

Stratford Chefs School in 2012, worked at 

PATIO NOW OPEN


Rundles for six years, at Pazzo Taverna, and 

this season she will be at The Prune alongside 

Chef Jamie Crosby. Currently Rudner is the 

Program Manager and a core instructor at 

Stratford Chefs School. Wondering about 

the impact that emerging chefs have on the 

culinary scene in Stratford, I emailed Rudner 

who replied, “I think that the biggest impact 

that emerging chefs have had on the culinary 

scene in Stratford is a strong interest in 

collaboration, rather than competition. The 

young chefs 

working in 

Stratford 

today eat at 

each other’s 

restaurants, 

help at each 

other’s events, 

and share 

equipment 

(and sometimes 

supplies). 

As a result, 

the hospitality 

Randi Rudner industry in 

Stratford has 


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Jill Thorpe 

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become more collegial, more creative, and 

more inclusive. This generation of chefs is 

highly concerned with the provenance of 

the product with which they work and how 

something is produced, and by whom. Part 

of this concern stems from an interest in 

environmental sustainability and a growing 

awareness of the devastating repercussions of 

many conventional food production practices. 

Part of it stems from a genuine interest in the 

wellbeing of the broader culinary community 

in which they find themselves, a community 

not just of chefs, but also of growers, 

producers, and eaters. Just as significantly, 

today’s chefs are eagerly exploring the idea 

of terroir in cuisine — that food can taste 

of a particular time and place, that it can 

tell their story, and the source of their raw 

ingredients is of fundamental importance to 

this perspective.” 

Rudner elaborated, “In a significant sense, the 

curriculum at Stratford Chefs School has always 

addressed many of the issues that this new generation 

of chefs finds important. In addition to 

strong technique, we focus on collaboration and 

teamwork. Through various projects and assignments 

our students reflect on their own stories 

and mine them for culinary inspiration, and we 

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examine 

Canadian 

gastronomy 

closely. 

Ingredient 

quality 

and ethical 

purchasing 

decisions are 

addressed in 

Kris Sholzhauer nearly every 

class. Our 

curriculum 

has evolved to include more in-depth instruction 

of equity in the workplace, worker’s 

rights, contemporary food movements, and 

food security, all of which are of increasing 

importance to emerging chefs.” 

BRYAN LAVERY, Eatdrink Food Editor and Writer at 

Large, brings years of professional experience in the 

restaurant and hospitality business, as a chef, restaurateur 

and partner in the Lavery Culinary Group, a culinary 

experience provider and media consulting business. 

TERRY MANZO is a highly respected Stratford-based 

photographer. www.terrymanzo.com 

Homestyle Cooking & Baking 

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Restaurants 


Katana Kafé & Grill in London 

By TANYA CHOPP 

For those who are willing to travel, 

great rewards await. In the case of 

Katana Kafé & Grill, the good news is 

that you don’t have to travel too far. 

On the outskirts of London, nestled beside 

the roaring tarmack of London International 

Airport, lies a hidden gem that patrons may 

not wish for you to know about. The Katana 

Kafé & Grill has been a London fixture for well 

over a decade and in that time it’s managed to 

cultivate a loyal clientele, while also, somehow, 

still flying under the radar. 

Run by two red seal chefs, Jaime Peña and 

Executive Chef Chris Morrisson, Katana is 

everything you’d expect from a downtown 

establishment. But the distance from the city 

core has allowed them to dance to the beat to 

their own drum, without any need to ‘keep up 

with the Joneses.’ 

“What attracted me to Katana was that it 

was completely unique,” says Chef Morrisson. 

“The menus were different, even back then. 

This is not your typical restaurant.” 

Doing their own thing has led to a menu 

that’s incredibly flexible for diners with all 

manner of tastes, including those with dietary 

restrictions. 

“When I was taught to cook, 10 to 15 years 

ago, it seemed as though everything got 

floured. But in the last five years I haven’t 

cooked with gluten intentionally,” says Chef 

Morrisson. “Instead, we try to use chickpea 

flours and rice flour, etcetera. Plus we’re 

focused on getting back to basics, and cooking 

like French cooks used to — using reductions 

to thicken sauces. So, many of our dishes end 

up being gluten-free from top to bottom.” 

“We bake all of our breads, and even make 

our own natural yeast. Our sourdough bread, 

while not gluten-free, is still made from our 

own starter. Sourdough is also known to be 

more gentle, as the fermentation process eats 

the gluten. The soup on our menu is always 

dairy-free, gluten-free and vegetarian, while 

Katana staff members, left to right, include : Jaime Pena, Krista White, Reta Coghill, Chris Morrisson, 

Ben Ferraro, Charlie Zucchero, Cameron Bonnyman, Chris Scott, and Heather McAllister.



the soup-of-the-day may be cream-based, 

or include meat.” On a grander scale, as the 

menu changes for the season, the development 

process is exciting and collaborative. 

Culinary inspiration, client feedback and the 

team’s strong suits are all shared in equal 

measure. 

“When I do a menu, it’s like writing an 

album,” Chef Morrisson says. “For instance, I 

may think that this one will be ‘heavy,’ while 

the next one may be more ‘country.’ But, while 

I have ideas before I write the menu, [during 

the process] I’ll share what I’ve been thinking 

and say ‘let’s turn it into something more 

tangible or cohesive,’ between the two or three 

of us. We know we have to play to people’s 

strengths too. Two years ago we were doing 

steakhouse style menus, but now we’re doing 

contemporary global cuisine.” 

The end result will always be an eclectic 

mix, thanks in no small part to the diverse 

needs and interests of the clientele, 

who range from corporate lunch-goers 

to customers who fly in from around 

the region looking for high-end fare. 

“Over lunchtime, our Classic Reuben 

Sandwich (Montreal smoked meat with 

Swiss cheese, sauerkraut and 1000 

Island dressing on toasted marble rye) 

is a staple that will never go away, and 

now, neither will our Cubano (pulled 

pork, Virginia style ham, Swiss cheese, 

pickles and garlic dijonnaise served 

on a Vienna roll), the latter of which 

caused quite a bit of sadness in customers’ 

eyes when we took it off the menu 

one season”, says Morrison 

“However, we’re also well-known for 

our steak and fish. Right now, our beef 

is sourced from a farm just outside of 

Prescott (north of Peterborough), and 

we get our lake trout (which is served 

with remoulade sauce, and lemon) 

from Manitoulin.” 

“Our burger is also pretty epic. I 

think everyone’s seen one of those 

shows where some host with bleach 

blonde spikey hair shows off burgers 

that have half a foot of dusted onions 

piled on, or a fried egg, and we thought 

‘we can do that.’ It was a bit scary at 

first to offer it on the menu, but we’ve 

found that there’s a market for it — 

and it’s always fun to see people’s faces 

when it comes out, or as they try to 

figure out how to eat it.” 

Executive Chef Chris Morrisson keeps it local — and inspired 

— with experience, teamwork, and a loyal clientele. 

Get up close — very close — and enjoy the views and 

the action from the patio. 

Relax in the dining room or at the bar, for breakfast, lunch or 

dinner. Or perhaps just a signature Aviation Cocktail.



“Over the weekend, we also offer breakfast 

and it’s very popular. We have fresh jams, and 

create our hollandaise from scratch.” 

If none of these items pique your fancy, you 

may be interested to know that during the 

summer Katana also offers a themed patio 

menu. This year’s inspiration is Perch, Pizza, 

and Pinot. 

“As the name implies, we’ll be matching 

a few of our pinot grigios and pinot noirs to 

perch and pizzas,” Chef Morrisson says. 

Katana also has its own signature cocktail 

menu with various aviation-themed drinks: 

Runway (raspberry, Curaçao and 7 Up), Horizon 

(Malibu, cranberry and lemonade), and 

the Aviation Cocktail (Aviation gin, maraschino, 

and crème de violette), to name a few. 

As one last note — for those who are fascinated 

by everything aviation — the pinnacle 

of action occurs at Katana when Airshow 

London, the largest military air display in 

Canada, comes to town (September 13 to 15). 

For this special event, the restaurant plans a 

fixed-price, custom three-course menu, and 

offers customers the best seat in the house to 

view the planes landing and taking off. If the 

weather cooperates Katana also extends its 

patio, increasing the seating capacity to make 

more room for those who wish to sit outside. 

All-in-all, while Katana may be “far out, 

they like it that way” — and regardless of how 

you journey there — you’ll always be greeted 

with food and views that let you know you’ve 

arrived. 

Katana Kafé & Grill 

2530 Blair Blvd., London 

519-455-9005 

katanakafe.ca 

breakfast: sat & sun 9 am–12 pm 

lunch: mon & tues 11 am–3 pm 

wed–fri 11 pm–5 pm 

sat & sun 12 noon–3 pm 

dinner: wed–friday 5 pm–9 pm 

sat 5 pm–9 pm; sun 5 pm–8 pm 

TANYA CHOPP is a local writer and communications 

professional who enjoys exploring and writing on topics 

related to local food and culture, humour and fitness. 

Left, from top: 

Bread and Jam (from scratch) 

Perch Tacos; 

Neapolitan Style Pizza; 

Perch and Chips.



Spotlight 




It’s been over thirty years since I became 

enamoured of Bayfield. Restaurateur/ 

entrepreneur Tania Auger, of Sarnia’s 

Lola Lounge, had asked me to join her 

in opening the Shark Inn (formerly the Ritz 

Hotel — now the location of the rebuilt 

Virtual High School — on the main street 

across from The Little Inn). 

Tourism officials refer to this region as 

Ontario’s West Coast. There are two well-known 

inns located in this area. The 19th century 

The Little Inn of Bayfield is known for being 

Ontario’s oldest operating inn and for its fulllength 

double-deck verandahs. Beginning in 

the 1830s, the Inn was a stop for stagecoaches 

on the Sarnia to Goderich route. The other 

notable property is Benmiller Inn & Spa (a 

former woollen mill) located in a hollow beside 

the Maitland River, twenty minutes outside 

Bayfield. Benmiller’s contemporary rustic 

lodgings and its white-linen Ivey Dining Room 

retains a more buttoned-down ambience. Menus 

highlight old world classics like Chicken Duxelle, 

Maple-glazed Duck Breast or Metzger’s Seared 

Beef Tenderloin with Butter Poached Shrimp. 

On Highway 21, three minutes north of town, 

is the appealing Ashwood Inn, a revitalized 

22-room boutique property. 

On the wide, pedestrian-friendly, Main 

Street with its pea gravel pathways are historic 

yellow brick and clapboard buildings that are 

designated under the Ontario Heritage Act. In 

many ways the village nestled on the precipice 

of the sandy eastern shore of Lake Huron 

remains much as it was three decades ago. 

Bayfield can boast more than 20 stops for 

food enthusiasts, on the main street, the 

highway, and near the harbour. Local menus 

showcase dominant food trends including 

elevated street food. Fish and chips are de 

rigueur, but not all of the fish comes from 

Lake Huron. There are galleries, boutiques and 

one-of-a-kind shops. A favourite is Martha 

Beechie’s indie Village Bookshop, situated 

in a yellow clapboard house on Main Street 

where I recently spotted Ruth Reichl’s recent 

memoir, Save Me the Plums, about her days as 

editor of Gourmet magazine. 

The building which houses The Albion Hotel’s 

English-style pub was a store in the 1840s and 

became a hotel in 1856. Through the years we 

have made regular stops at The Albion for its 

inspired pub fare featuring in-house made 

gourmet burgers, BBQ platters and sixteen taps. 

Known for its extensive range of single malt 

whiskies and craft beer, Black Dog Village Pub 

and Bistro is located next door to The Albion 

in a circa-1850 general store, with the original 

Bayfield’s Main Street is home to an 

appealing number of independent 

businesses, including (right) The 

Village Bookshop.


display windows. It is 

among the top tier of 

best sit-down places to 

eat and drink in Bayfield 

with well prepared and 

presented fare and all the 

attributes of an excellent 

gastropub. At Black 

Dog they understand 

hospitality and customer 

service. Burgers are a speciality here. At last 

count there were nine versions available. A 

Experience Hessenland Inn & Vineyard 

Where heritage is infused into every vine and vintage 

Join us for one of our 

Signature Events! 

• Long Table Vineyard Dinners 

• Mongolian Grill 

• Weddings, Conferences & Retreats 

• Novemberfest & MORE! 

Accommodations • Award-Winning Gardens • Private Beach Access 

Vineyard • Dining Room with European & Locally Inspired Fare 

Located steps from Lake Huron between Grand Bend & Bayfield 

Call 519-236-7707 or 866-543-7736 

hessen@hessenland.com • www.hessenland.com 

Reservations required for all events 


Walk up to the window for an ice cream, 

as you explore Bayfield’s Main Street 

deep bowl of bright tomato and red pepper 

soup was a recent hit. Expect such items as 

osso buco, bouillabaisse, flat iron steak and 

properly battered haddock served with fries 

on the dinner menu. We especially liked the 

listing of VQA wines and the selection from 

nearby Maelstrom and Dark Horse Estate 

wineries. We savoured piping hot coffee at the 

bar, sourced from the village’s Main Street indie 

coffee roaster Shopbike, and were entertained 

by the knowledgeable barman before returning 

for a three-hour late lunch (not recommended 

when they are busy). The outdoor patio is one of 

several prime spots 

on Main Street for 

al fresco dining. 

Across the street 

is Copenhagen’s, 

with a walk-up 

ice cream counter 

and a take-away 

window at the side 

of the building. 

Menus feature 

The Albion Hotel 

food-truck-style 

offerings such as 

perch or yellow pickerel with fresh cut fries, 

crispy fish tacos, Metzger Meat’s footlongs and 

burgers and BBQ pork poutine. Take a seat 

Relax and enjoy our peaceful 

Creekside Patio. 

Breakfast, lunch and dinner 

7 days a week. 

Benmiller Inn & Spa 

81175 Benmiller Line | Goderich ON | 519.524.2191 1.800.265.1711 | www.benmiller.ca


Black Dog Pub & Bistro 

at one of several umbrellaed backyard picnic 

tables, or do as their website suggests and take 

your repast to the nearby Clan Gregor Square 

where you will find a small pavilion, plenty of 

shade, a splash pad and more picnic tables. At 

the opposite end of Main Street is Rosie’s Ice 

Cream Shoppe, known for its pink, turquoise 

and purple awning and old-fashioned, batchby-batch 

London Ice Cream offerings. 

Next to the Black Dog is Olio, a reasonably 

priced snack bar and summertime pizzeria. 

Olio’s mantra: “We refuse to compromise 

quality in our restaurant. That’s why we source 

our fresh ingredients 

from our 

local vendors and 

farmers.” There is 

a stone oven for 

their signature 

pizzas and the 

smoker and BBQ 

are fired up for 

breakfast and allday 

snacks. One 

offering from 

the smoker is 

pulled pork with BBQ sauce and apple slaw on 

ciabatta. Also on ciabatta is brisket, smoked 

cheddar cheese, caramelized onions and 

horseradish aioli. There is a black bean burger, 

veggie dog and a plant-based burger. The 

Olio Hypocrite Burger is a plant-based patty 

wrapped in bacon. 

Down the street, the hospitable Lake House 

of Bayfield is much more casual than The Red 

Pump ever was. The menu features starters 

and shareables, salads, burgers and entrées, 

best described as comfort foods. There are 

battered lake perch tacos, pulled pork nachos 

and smoked rainbow trout. The signature 

Baron Burger with smoked bacon and freshly- 


The Lake House of Bayfield 

BISTRO • CONFERENCE • SUITES • SPA 

519-565-2576 

LakeHouseofBayfield.com 

Sesame 

Lo Mein 

Salad 

“Where everyone knows your game” 

18 Hole Golf Course 

Year-round Restaurant / Bar 

Protein 

Bowl 

whitesquirrelgolfclub.com 

7 km north of Grand Bend on Hwy. 21


The Best and Only Water-TOP Patio! 

Chef-inspired Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner Menus 

Craft Beers & Inspired Cocktails 

Best View In The City 

Join Us ... Dockside! 

Alternate Grounds Dockside 

Sarnia Bay Marina, 

97 Seaway Road, Sarnia 

519-332-3081 

Open Daily • from 8–Late • April–October 

agdockside.com 

www.sarniaepicweekend.com 

The tall ships® 

Are coming! 

ground chuck and brisket and smoked cheddar 

cheese on a brioche remains a knockout. On 

the dinner menu, there are chèvre, sundried 

tomato and pesto-stuffed chicken breast, 

chipotle red snapper and strip loin steak. 

Four years ago, after 33 years of business, 

Gayle and Pat Waters turned The Little Inn over 

to new owners. The Little Inn was beautifully 

renovated and refurbished and the kitchen was 

redesigned so the Inn could focus on becoming 

a culinary destination. The plan was for diners 

to experience Huron County and Bayfield in 

particular through its culinary offerings. 

Now owned by Mike Oliver and Jamie 

McDougall, The Little Inn’s Willow Room offers 

seasonal menus by executive chef Dan Stubbs, 

who came to The Little Inn four and a half years 

ago from Clevelands House, a historic resort 

on Lake Rousseau in Muskoka. Stubbs always 

showcases the best of locally-procured Huron 

County ingredients. The hybrid of elevated 

comfort food cooking and high-end refinement 

and technique is something that we don’t mind 

paying a premium for. The beautifully appointed 

Four-in-Hand Taproom features an extensive 

selection of beers, wines and specialty cocktails 

and items like charcuterie, fish cakes, schnitzel 

August 8th -11th 

3 Events 

1 Epic Weekend 

LOU GRAMM

and beer battered 

haddock and 

chips. 

We are longtime 

fans of the 

seasonal drive-in 

restaurant 

and when we 

want to wax 

The Little Inn of Bayfield 

nostalgic with 

old school fast 

food the Farmers Dell (est. 1956) in Brucefield 

is consistently good. We continue to hear 

great things about the new owners. The longestablished 

Woodland Drive-In just outside 

Bayfield also continues to be a local hot spot. 

In the morning, be sure to grab yourself a 

coffee at Shopbike Coffee and a salted caramel 

cupcake at the Pink Flamingo Bakery to start 

your day. 

Trust... 

Taste... 

Quality... 

BRYAN LAVERY is Eatdrink Food Editor and Writer at 

Large. Always on the lookout for stories Eatdrink should 

be telling, he helps shape the magazine both under his 

byline and behind the scenes. 

Your Source for 

Dry Aged Steaks, 

Sausages, Burgers & Kebabs 

and so much more ... 

• Sourced locally from trusted farms 

• Traditional European preparation methods 

• The latest in food processing innovation 

Featuring 

Creative Menus 

from Chefs 

Erryn Shephard 

& 

Ben Sandwith 

Always Available 

for Caterings! 

Lunch and Dinner 

Seasonal Hours 

Reservations Recommended 

519.238.6224 

42 Ontario St. S., Grand Bend 

www.finearestaurant.com 

Open six days a week. 

Hensall, Ontario 

Just off Hwy 4, 

45 minutes north of London. 

www.metzgermeats.com 

519-262-3130 

Available in London at 

The Village Meat Shop 

at The Market at Western Fair 

on Weekends! 

Local Beef • Pork • Lamb • Poultry 

Specialty European Meat Products



Spotlight 

New Hotspots 

Four Noteworthy Additions to Our Culinary Scene 

By THE EDITORS 

Grace 

215 Dundas Street, London 

226-667-4822 

gracelondon.ca 

lunch thursday & friday 11:30am–2pm 

dinner wednesday–saturday from 5pm 

sunday 11:30am–2pm; 6pm–9pm 

monday & tuesday closed 

In one of the more 

eagerly awaited 

recent launches 

in downtown 

London, Chef Angie Murphy and partner/ 

sommelier Pete Annson opened Grace 

restaurant to rave reviews. The cuisine is 

modern Canadian, drawing on classic French 

traditions and techniques, infused with global 

influences and local flavours. There is a certified 

sommelier on the premises and the wine list 

offers interesting pairing opportunities. A 

prix fixe dinner menu is created every Sunday 

with a different theme, with a prix fixe brunch 

including appealing sweet and savoury options. 

Two Guys and a Whisk Bakery 

519 Dundas Street, Woodstock 

519-290-9200 

fb.com/Two-Guys-and-a-Whisk- 

Bakery-258765288121751 

tuesday–saturday 9:30am–4pm 

sunday & monday closed 

Located in downtown 

Woodstock, baker Nabil 

Danha and partner 

Tracy Kimmett of Two 

Guys and a Whisk Bakery 

offer an extensive array of 

classic baked goods. This is the spot for more 

than satisfying a sweet tooth, with buttery, 

ultra-flaky croissants, crusty baguettes, and 

artisanal breads. Dessert lovers will be in 

heaven too. You’ll also find exquisite Frenchinspired 

patisserie, brownies, lemon squares, 

cookies, tarts, pies, custom cakes and some 

gluten-free products.



Two Forks 

295 Bridge Street, Port Stanley 

226-658-4887 

fb.com/twoforks295 

open daily 11:30am–10pm 

Chef Rob Lampman, 

formerly of The Kettle 

Creek Inn, and his 

partner Terrie Collard 

have created a 

welcoming space. The 

“beachy chic” decor, complemented by a 

gorgeous patio and chef’s garden, enhance the 

vibe. The bar has live-edge wood extensions 

creating extra seating. Small plates, designed 

for sharing, are made with local ingredients 

from scratch. You’ll find freshly shucked live 

oysters right at the bar, local wine on tap, 

craft beer flights and handcrafted cocktails 

like the Two Forks Caesar, topped with pickle, 

olive, shrimp, oyster and a pastrami slider! 

Happiness Café 

430 Wellington Street, London 

519-204-2854 

myhappiness.ca 

tuesday-friday 8:30am–6pm 

saturday 9:00am–5pm 

sunday 10am–4pm 

monday closed 

Olha and Anatolii Prytkova’s family-owned 

Happiness, on Wellington Street across 

from One London Place, features Europeanstyle 

coffee and desserts. All the baking is 

done from scratch, featuring seasonal and 

specialty cakes, French macarons, cupcakes 

and chocolates. They also feature a selection 

of delectable high-end doughnuts such as 

pistachio, crème brûlée, salted caramel, mango 

and passion fruit. Coffee for their espressobased 

drinks comes from craft roaster “Hatch.” 

C’Angelina 

Catering 

Corporate & Family BBQs 

Prepared Foods & Fresh Meats 

Catering that meats your needs. 

426 Third Street, London 

519-204-8189 

c-angelina@rogers.com



SPONSORED BY 

Road Trips 


It’s Worth Another Visit ... and Stay Awhile 

By SUE SUTHERLAND WOOD | Photos by DOUG NORTH 

A 

good road trip needs to tick a 

lot of boxes, especially when 

time is at a premium and gas 

prices are high. No one wants 

to keep doing the same trip either. How 

lucky are we then to have Essex County; 

chock-full of activities from birding, to 

wine tasting, to food trails, to history and 

much, much more. Getting there quickly is 

not the problem. But having to head back 

might be, so why not plan to stay awhile? 

The tasting bar at Oxley Estate Winery 

is flooded with sunshine as vivacious 

Oxley Estate Winery 

North 42 Degrees 

Colchester Ridge Estate Winery (CREW) 

owner Ann Neydon Wilson steps forward to greet us. 

A good vibe seems omnipresent, from the spacious 

wine patio and gardens to the carefully restored barn. 

Delightfully earnest staff will feel like friends before 

we leave and tastings of the small batch, awardwinning 

wines will have been puckishly paired with 

songs (since every wine has a “sound”). Wowza White 

2017, a bright, clean blend was linked to The Cure’s 

Close to Me, which seemed just right. 

Oxley also has an excellent restaurant (choices 

include a spiced honey-glazed Cornish hen with 

leek bread pudding) and recently won a designation 

from Open Table as one of Canada’s Most Romantic 

Restaurants. Popular theme nights include Howl-atthe-Moon 

with live music, Buck-a-shuck ($1 per each 

East Coast oyster), and Barn Dinners, and there is 

live music every Sunday from May to October 6. 533 

County 50 Rd. East, Harrow, oxleyestatewinery.com 

North 42 Degrees Estate Winery takes its name 

from the same latitude address as Central Italy and 

Northern California, and states its credo in a few 

words: “good times and fine wines.” But when affable 

owner Martin Gorski speaks eloquently about the 

region’s superior soil and the surrounding Carolinian 

forest, his tone becomes so reverential there’s no 

mistaking a serious love affair. North 42 Degrees is a 

stunningly beautiful year-round destination offering a 

myriad of events, as well as good wine. Past workshops 

have included photography, pierogi making, and crosscountry 

skiing, and there is a wine club. Corporate 

events and weddings are easily accommodated on 

the property. Serenity Lavender Farms is part of 

the winery, and produces over 40 different kinds of 

lavender. Products are available in the store. 

Martin’s son Aaron is a superb wine guide, 

speaking intelligently about all aspects of the process 

and listening closely to our questions. The walls are 

lined with medals but the Sparkling Sauvignon Blanc 

(with a hint of Bosc pear that quickly makes it my 

favourite) won double gold, meaning the decision 

was unanimous. On the second floor, Bistro 42 is a 

sophisticated but comfortable dining experience, 

with sweeping views of Lake Erie and the vineyard 

provided by floor-to-ceiling windows. Food and staff


alike are celestial — silky soft gnocchi and 

savory squares of pork belly are standouts. 

Even the tooled flatware is an art form. A 

busy map on the wall uses pins to represent 

North 42 Degrees visitors from all over the 

world, who have come to sample the wine and 

tranquility here. 130 County Road 50 East, Colchester, 

north42degrees.com 

CREW is the acronym associated with 

Colchester Ridge Estate Winery, a small family 

run business that since 2006 has been producing 

award-winning VQA wines on 12 acres of 

vines. Michelle Turnbull welcomes us in the 

tasting room and proudly explains how successfully 

grapes can be grown in this “Canadian 

Riviera.” She also cites the warm breezes off 

Lake Erie and notes that being so far south 

really does have a positive effect on the wines. 

The CREW Merlot 2016 that I sample is 

soft and full of dark berries and spice — 

distinctive tastes that even I can discern 

with a prompt, and it is frankly, delicious. 

CREW tastings usually take place in the retail 

store at the front of the building but larger 

groups tend to use the barrel room, which is 

impressively cavernous. Michelle notes that 


with the 

creation 

of a brand 

new tasting 

room and 

special 

event space 

coming 

in the fall 

Grove House Hotel 

(clearly 

underway 

outside) 

there will 

be room for 

additional 

art and 

sculptures. 

A nearby 

trio of highstepping 

The BlackJack Gastrovan 

sheep has 

already made us smile, and there is something 

about art, wine and whimsy that just seem 

a perfect match. 108 County Road 50 East, Harrow, 

colchesterridge.com 

Tucked into the corner of Main Street and 

WIN A LEXUS FOR A WEEKEND! 

Plus get your own car cleaned and detailed! 

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Presented by 

Enter by going to eatdrink.ca/contests 

Contest ends August 26, 2019. Complete details online. 

Congratulations Wendy McMurray, 

winner of our May/June Draw!


Division is Dutch Boys Chocolate, the collaborative 

dream of Henry Noestheden and Cor 

Boon, award winners in their respective fields 

as sculptor/designer and professional woodcarver. 

Both men — charming and dapper in 

their black caps and aprons — are now in their 

seventies, yet completed much of the store 

renovation themselves and when highly specialized 

machinery proved costly, they designed and 

assembled their own. Everything is made on 

site, by hand, and with “a great deal of love” Cor 

says. Kingsville has shown them much support 

since they opened two years ago, when they also 

won a “Jimmie Award” for the Best Chocolate 

in Canada. Boon’s diverse selection of carvings, 

which ultimately become silicone moulds for the 

chocolate, are often inspired by Point Pelee wildlife, 

and are truly art forms themselves. Truffles 

are made daily and there are 24 different kinds. 

Local 

ingredients 

are 

often 

featured 

although 

Henry 

confides 

the butter 

Dutch Boys Chocolate 

is from 

Normandy. 

The lavender 

sample I enjoy is a little square of shining 

bliss. Visitors are encouraged to watch production 

through a large window. 2 Main Street West, 

Kingsville, dutchboyschocolate.com 

The Grove Brew House is an awardwinning 

microbrewery. A hotel of the same 

name is next door and both have enjoyed 

plenty of positive buzz since opening in 

2016. Previously a historic landmark, The 

Grove building has since been re-imagined 

as a boutique hotel. It recently placed in 

TripAdvisor’s Top 25 Small Hotels in Canada, 

and attracts such famous guests as Margaret 

Atwood and Gene Simmons. At the Brew 

House we sample a tender crusted wood 

oven pizza simply adorned with tomato 

sauce, a slick of garlic oil and some fresh basil 

skittered over buffalo mozzarella and it is 

one of the best I have ever had. Beers I enjoy 

include the Clubhouse Stout — an assertive 

glass of treacly darkness — and the aptly 

named Paradise Lager, which is just that. 

Both The Grove Brew House and The Grove 

Hotel have been decorated with a distinctly 

funky but pleasing juxtaposition of old and 

A KINGSVILLE STAPLE SINCE 1989... 

from the house 

that JacK built. 

CELEBRATING 30 DELICIOUS YEARS 

Check in to one of our three distinctive inns and enjoy our 

town’s generous hospitality. Visit the Kingsville Concierge 

Desk to plan your culinary exploration. 

Join us for lunch or dinner at Jack’s Gastropub to experience 

our farm-to-table menus recreated each season. 

Start your day at Bean15 Coffee Lounge before setting out 

on an EPIC Wine Route Adventue. 

Finish your day with us at Banded Goose Brewing Co. with a 

pint of beer made in house. CHEERS! 

KINGSVILLE CONCIERGE — 15 MAIN ST. E., KINGSVILLE,ON 

519-733-5070 | INFO@KINGSVILLECONCIERGE.COM 

KINGSVILLECONCIERGE.COM | STOP IN AND PLAN YOUR TRIP 

DRINK. EAT. REPEAT. 

Open Daily at 8am 

70 Park Street, Kingsville ON 

519-712-9335 

beachhousegrillkingsville.com


growers & creators of fine lavender products 

DISCOVER. 

INDULGE. 

ESCAPE. 

519-494-5525 

47589 Sparta Line, Sparta 

Wed–Sat 10-5; Sun 12–4 

Mother’s Day to Dec. 20 

PLUS June–Labour Day: Tues 10-5 

steedandcompany.com 

Enjoy 

Our Annual 

Lavender Fairy 

Festival 

Sat., Aug. 10 

12–4pm $ 5 

Bring 

Your Wings! 

Come Experience Our World! 

Award Winning Artisan Cheese 

$5 Garden 

Admission 

June 15-July 14 

NOW OFFERING! Affinage 101 

A hands-on behind-the-scenes experience 

• Visit the aging room where cheese is cured 

• Taste the changes in flavour as the cheese cures 

• Discover steps to judge cheese quality and taste 

• Create a delicious Gunn’s Hill fondue from scratch 

• Find details and register on our website 

445172 Gunn's Hill Rd, Woodstock, ON 

519-424-4024 

www.gunnshillcheese.ca 

new — an interior wall is exposed to reveal 

stone beneath while a large rooster sculpture 

stands tall in a washroom. Original pipes 

have been incorporated at the bar, discovered 

oak re-purposed for tables, and of course the 

brewery itself shines like a cityscape in the 

background. Hotel rooms are not traditional 

— each one has been assigned a clever theme 

such as “Hello Mr. Lumberjack” whose trendy 

description notes that the fluffy linens are 

“made from clouds — we’re pretty sure.” 

Certainly the quirk works and The Grove’s 

attention to every detail from witty menus to 

genuinely friendly staff does not go unnoticed. 

12 Main Street, Kingsville, breweatsleeprepeat.com 

Troy Loop has long been a champion for 

Kingsville and his wildly successful Jack’s 

Gastropub has been going strong for over 

twenty-five years. This busy family-run business 

is just one of a few in the “Jack” series, a clever 

homage to Jack Miner, famed Kingsville 

conservationist who popularized bird banding 

and its importance. We enjoy a splendid meal on 

Jack’s wraparound porch. It includes succulent 

pickerel and good French fries with an especially 

tasty vinaigrette slaw while my companion 

enjoys a juicy mile-high Luau burger which could 

easily have fed a family of four. jacksgastropub.com 

“Distinctive Inns of Kingsville” represents 

Troy’s multi-property boutique hotel group. 

Each hotel is named after its street number, 

with Inn31 (31 Division South Street) featuring 

three luxurious suites on the second floor 

of the 1880 Kingsville homestead. Inn136 

features suites at the Heart & Soul Guest 

House (136 Mill West). At Inn15, with Brewery 

loft suites at the Banded Goose Brewing 

Company (15 Main East Street), we enjoy a 

pleasant and comfortable stay. The welcome 

centre at Banded Goose is a collaborative 

effort with Tourism Windsor/Essex/Pelee 

Island and serves as a handy hub for friendly 

concierge advice, maps and food/wine trail 

guides. (An added bonus: from spring to fall a 

complimentary bike is available on request). 

Bean 15 coffee lounge — also located at the 

brewery address — is a casual spot to sip (try 

the “Birthday Cake” sugar on your coffee!) as you 

plan your next steps. Admire the huge vintage 

photographs of Jack Miner on the walls. 

The BlackJack Gastrovan — the name says it 

all — is yet another “Jack” innovation, serving 

up high-end creations on the go, at extremely 

reasonable prices. Most recently the Gastrovan 

has taken on the Sunday brunch crowd and 

offers a changing menu featuring steak and


Beach House Grill 

eggs 

breakfast 

perogies, 

blueberry 

Hefeweizen 

mussels, 

and other 

unique 

choices. 

Troy’s 

genuine enthusiasm and passion for Kingsville 

is inspiring, and although he has clearly been a 

visionary in its success he is quick to point out 

that all of the local businesses truly support 

one another and believe in what they are doing. 

Beach House Grill is a cheery, family-run 

restaurant with lots of fun nautical nods (the 

doorway to the dining room is a giant porthole) 

and a varied menu that has something for 

everyone. Breakfasts include everything from 

the usual choices to “Meatloaf and Eggs,” 

while an extensive dinner menu features 

tacos, burgers, seafood (including frog legs), 

and a pleasing kids’ 

menu includes two 

pasta choices. 70 

Park St., Kingsville, 

beachhousegrillkingsville.com 

Wolfhead Distillery 

is a winning combination 

of hipster and 

historian, touting 

itself as “the first premium 

craft distillery 

in Essex County since 

Prohibition.” Tours of 

the distillery as well as 

Wolfhead Distillery 

tastings are available, 

and it’s fascinating 

to view the gleaming 

steam-punk tableau of copper/steel machinery 

clearly on view from the tasting bar. 

There is also a restaurant with a menu that 

reflects the distillery’s products (Wolfhead 

Whisky Smoked Wings, for instance) and 

offers plenty of good choices. Wolfhead’s 

premium blends of vodka and whisky take 

the definition of purity to a new level and 

the near-by limestone quarry is essential to 

a taste which is “mineral driven.” Vodka is 

wheat-based and distilled seven times, making 

the product gluten-free. Vodka flavours 

(award-winning Premium, banana caramel, 

grapefruit) are unique and authentic. (The 

grapefruit flavoured vodka tastes intensely 

Locally Sourced Ingredients 

Authentic Italian Cuisine 

Local Craft Beers 

Wines from Italy 

Regional Specific & Organic 

Take Out & Gift Certificates Available 

Wine or Spirit Tasting Events! 

First Monday of Every Month 

Lunch Wednesday–Saturday 

Dinner Tuesday–Saturday 

www.fatolive.ca 

2135 Dorchester Road, Dorchester 

519-268-0001 

 

 

 

 

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of peel, almost a marmalade note). Whisky 

choices (premium, coffee, apple caramel) are 

especially impressive — perfectly balanced 

and not remotely cloying. I have never enjoyed 

whisky but this is a very different experience. 

Additional products are in the works! 7781 

Howard Ave, McGregor, www.drinkwolfhead.com 

A single goat bleat breaks the silence as we 

arrived at the 13-acre Muscedere Vineyards, 

a beautiful 

family-owned 

winery close to 

the Chrysler 

Canada 

Greenway (a 

trail popular 

with birders, 

cyclists and 

Muscedere Vineyards 

walking 

enthusiasts). Melissa Muscedere is a 

knowledgeable and entertaining host and in 

mid-tasting suggests that we examine the 

grapes themselves. As we set out she explains 

the care that goes into winemaking (“90% 

vineyard, 10% making wine”) and points out 

that having “small lots, means big character.” 

Muscedere wines — all hand-harvested — have 

enjoyed many awards and the premium reds are 

a specialty. Award-winning 2013 Syrah is rich 

and has a definite pepperiness, as promised. 

The delicious 2017 Rosé surprises me since it is 

not remotely sugary. Melissa explains that rosé 

was not originally intended to be sweet — and 

is now finally trending back towards dryness. 

As well as two goats and a shaggy rabbit in 

his hutch, there is a “dog friendly” policy in place 

and a wonderful patio area boasts a wood-fired 

oven for pizzas, creating a relaxed family feel. 

7457 County Road 18 RR#4 Harrow muscederevineyards.com 

Sprucewood Shores Estate Winery opened 

in 2006 but, with the stately Tuscany-inspired 

retail building rising up from the lush 

surroundings, it seems inconceivable that it 

hasn’t been here for generations. Sprucewood 

Shores is a family business started by parents 

and now run by the next generation. Wine 

seems to 

be almost a 

vocation here 

and Vice- 

President/ 

Winemaker 

Tanya 

Mitchell’s 

pride and 

226.658.4887 @twoforks295 Sprucewood Shores Estate Winery 

passion for


what she 

does is 

evident. 

I sample 

the 2017 

Sauvignon 

Blanc, which 

is very 

Caffeine & Co. 

tempting 

and just 

faintly citrus, while the popular “Lady in Red’ 

2016, a medium light blend, is plummy with 

a hint of vanilla bean. Wine and cheese tours 

are available as well as tastings. Sprucewood 

Shores will also deliver anywhere in Canada. 

As well as the patio and surrounding gardens 

(balconies offer panoramic views of the 

vineyards and Lake Erie) there is a magnificent 

reception hall suitable for weddings and other 

events. There is also a path to an unexpected 

beachfront and scenic pond area. Be sure to 

consider Sprucewood Shore’s outstanding 

picnic basket, amply packed with thoughtful 

gourmet treats which can be paired with a 

glass of quality wine and toted along anywhere 

on the property. 7258 County Rd 50 West, Harrow, 

sprucewoodshores.com 

Fresh f lavours 

e v e r y day 

Proudly serving 

our finest dishes 

with fresh, local 

ingredients since 2016 

Restaurant & Bar 

226 658 0999 

soloportstanley.com 

VICTORIAN ERA INN & BISTRO BUILT IN 1889 

Award-Winning Design and Cuisine 

Elegantly Designed and Decorated Rooms 

Locally-Sourced Organic Upscale Cuisine 

Off-site Catering for Large & Small Groups 

71 Front Street, Strathroy ON 

Inn & Bistro: clocktower-inn.com 

Catering: clocktowercatering.ca 

Inn: 519-245-5656 Bistro: 519-205-1500


Although Caffeine & Co has not yet been open a year, 

cheery owner Meghan Boschin laughingly recalls the 

line-ups they experienced almost immediately, “as though 

they’d been waiting for us!” Housed in an older building, 

the Parisian-style interior is sleek black and white marble 

with smooth gold chairs (and golden flatware) at each 

table. “Bowler-hat lighting” adds a playful touch. Excellent 

coffee (which can be spiked with a shot of Baileys or 

Sambuca) is available in all its traditional forms as well as 

lactose-free, coconut/almond, and soy. Impressive choices 

abound, including Turmeric Latte, Jasmine Matcha and an 

outstanding Ayurvedic tea, which has a clean mintiness. A 

fine loose leaf tea selection is also available. Fresh soup and 

quiche are made in-house daily and there is an excellent 

selection of sandwiches, also available on gluten-free 

bread. An extensive bakery boasts macarons, carrot cake 

(suitably striped for Pride and pleasingly moist), croissants 

and much more. My favourite is a huge Crème Brûlée 

cookie scorched carefully to capture the flavour perfectly, 

but without the crunch. A sensible children’s menu 

offers waffles and classic grilled cheese. 238 Dalhousie Street, 

Amherstburg, caffeine-co.com 

Artisan Grill has been favoured by locals and tourists 

alike for more than seven years. With an emphasis on 

fresh ingredients and attention to detail, Chef Matthew 

Johnston’s menu offers a variety of hand-crafted 

meals, such as Chicken Marsala, designed to please. An 

impressive wine list offers both local and international 

choices and there is a good selection of beer on tap. The 

restaurant interior is quietly chic while a discreet gated 

patio at the back allows diners to eat beneath pergolas 

and tiny lights. There is a separate restaurant on the 

second floor, Fleur de Lis that is only open Saturday 

evenings or by private booking, so reservations are a 

must. Fleur de Lis has a prix fixe menu featuring classic 

choices such as Lobster Thermidor and Chateaubriand. 

269 Dalhousie St., Amherstburg, artisangrill.ca 

The Salty Dog is an inviting and popular upscale pub. 

A jaunty seafaring vibe prevails inside. We are able to 

sample a few specialties, including a vegan taco (popular 

even with carnivores!) with a toothsome filling of crispy 

cauliflower, avocado and chipotle drizzle. Lobster mac ‘n’ 

cheese is piping hot and creamily tender with generous 

hits of lobster meat. An imported wood-fire oven 

produces consistently excellent pizza and is clearly visible 


Artisan Grill 

The Salty Dog 

from the tables. The Salty Dog has 

a good selection of beer, wine, and 

specialty cocktails, and despite 

its relative newcomer status (not 

quite a year in business) it may 

well have found its moorings. 

237 Dalhousie Street, Amherstburg, 

thesaltydogcanada.com 

At the Waterfront Ice Cream 

Shop there are over 50 flavours of 

hand-scooped ice cream to choose 

from. Old school parfaits, banana 

splits, and milkshakes are also 

here and with nearly 40 years in 

business, you can be assured they 

will be done right. (Voted #1 ice 

cream parlour for Windsor, Essex 

and Metro Detroit). 229 Dalhousie St., 

Amherstburg, waterfronticecream.com 

Whatever your road trip theme, 

Essex County has so much to offer. 

You should go. 

SUE SUTHERLAND-WOOD is a freelance writer 

and regular contributor to Eatdrink. Read more of 

Sue’s work at www.speranzanow.com 

DOUG NORTH is an enthusiastic photographer, 

writer and historian living in London. 

Waterfront Ice Cream 

Sue and Doug were guests of Tourism Windsor Essex 

Pelee Island, which did not review or approve the 

contents of this article.


Beer 

Season of Fruitfulness 

Summer Beers with a Little Extra Flavour 

by GEORGE MACKE 


In a sauce over ice cream, in muffins, 

or in a pie. These are all noble ways to 

use rhubarb, but can anything compare 

with putting it in beer? Two London 

breweries think not. 

Forked River Brewing has, for most if not 

all of its six years in business, used rhubarb to 

brew Flashback. It’s a wheat beer with rhubarb 

added to give it a refreshing tartness and at 

4.5 per cent alcohol, it’s okay to say, “I’ll have 

another.” Flashback has grown beyond the 

brewery bottle shop and is now sold at LCBO 

stores in London and beyond. 

Not to be outdone, London Brewing 

has its own celebration of spring with 

Neighbourhood Tart, flavoured with donated 

rhubarb from the backyards of Londoners. 

The 2019 batch of this anticipated seasonal is 

ready at the brewery shop. 

Rhubarb is not the only fruit helping to 

flavour beer at London Brewing. Arguably the 

best on the board is Resolution, which uses 

the lesser-known kumquat. Kumquats are 

Bad Apple on Highway 21 between St. Joseph 

and Bayfield brews a strawberry cyser-weisen, 

adding strawberries and apples to a base of 

wheat beer. There is 

also a strawberryrhubarb 

version. 

Bad Apple is 

also brewing 

Penny’s Radler in 

collaboration with 

Culture Shock 

Kombucha of Grand 

Bend. Penny’s Radler 

will have a cherry flavour, along with vanilla. 

The juice and beer blends of radlers are a 

welcome addition to a summer’s day, whether 

you’re at a Huron County beach or in the city. 

This summer, Upper Thames in Woodstock 

will be dabbling in the fruit and beer space 

about the size of grape tomatoes and, when 

used in Resolution, add a zippiness to the sour 

beer to create a warm weather thirst quencher 

decidedly different from Bud Light. 

Here are some other beers with fruit 

themes from around the region to impress 

your friends with this summer. 

again with Making Waves. It will be a sour 

beer, but exactly what fruit will be used is 

being kept close 

to the vest. Upper 

Thames also has 

brewed Waves - Black 

Currant, magenta 

in colour and so, so 

very sour. A beer 

with passion fruit, 

which is a popular 

choice for brewers, 

is called Making Waves. Both Waves — Black 

Currant and Making Waves — are on tap at 

the brewery. 

Savouring and saving just got easier, thanks 

to Half Hours on Earth in Seaforth. The 

brewery has released a raw ale (which means 

the wort hasn’t been boiled) called Centigrade.


Black currant leaves, dandelion roots, 

and lemon zest help to flavour this 

sour beer. Savour it, yes. The saving 

part comes with the knowledge that $1 

from each bottle sold will be donated 

to the David Suzuki Foundation 

to aid its efforts to battle climate 

change. Climate change and Earth’s 

rising temperatures are also what 

inspired the beer’s name. Maybe take 

cold comfort with a refreshing beer 

for increasingly hot days. 

psum 

RAW. LIVE. LOCAL. ORGANIC. 

SMALL ARTISANAL BATCHES MADE WITH LOVE 

BY REGISTERED HOLISTIC NUTRITIONISTS 

open year round 

23 Main St. 

Grand Bend, ON 

cultureshockkombucha.com 

#loveyourgut 


Tango with mango, you say? Mango is a 

popular fruit to add to beer. At Anderson 

Craft Ales in 

London, they’ve 

combined mangoes 

and lime in a gose 

(a German-style 

sour beer) to create 

a pucker-worthy 

experience. Tart and 

fruity, this is fresh at 

the taproom. 

Confluence, a sour IPA brewed by Storm 

Stayed in London, incorporates apricots and 

peaches with Azacca and Mosaic hops. Hop 

choices will 

add to the 

fruit flavour 

of a beer. 

Azacca provides 

citrus 

and tropical 

fruit notes. Mosaic hops, which are very 

popular, provide aromas such as blueberry 

and mango. 

Steel Wheel near Brantford used almost 

20 kilograms 

of mangoes 

in brewing 

kettle sour. 

The on-farm 

brewery doesn’t 

name its beer, 

but we’ll call this one Mango Mama. 

Personally, I hate grapefruit and no amount 

of brown sugar can sway me. But squeeze that 

taste into a beer, and maybe … Black Swan 

in Stratford created Grapefruit Wild Child,


a Berliner weisse 

which comes with the 

advisory that tartness 

and fruit flavour 

may vary by batch. 

Neat trick to keep us 

coming back to try 

some more beer. 

If fruit creativity in 

the brewhouse is your thing, it pays to keep 

watch on the Renegade series from Cowbell 

in Blyth. The 

farm brewery/ 

restaurant/event 

centre’s current 

release in No. 

23, an oatmeal 

vanilla black 

lager. But recent releases have included a dryhopped 

cherry weizen and a mango milkshake 

IPA. There’ll be more around the corner. 

SUNDAY BRUNCH 

11am−2pm 

Intimate 

Outdoor 

Courtyard 

GEORGE MACKE is a craft beer explorer living in 

London. 

Open 7 Days a Week 

Mon/Tues 11:30-10, Wed/Thurs 11:30-11, Fri/Sat 11:30-12, Sun 11-10 

Road Trip! 

FAMILY-FRIENDLY, FULLY-ACCESSIBLE RESTAURANT 

and DESTINATION CRAFT BREWERY in BLYTH 

40035 BLYTH RD., BLYTH, ON N0M 1H0 1-844-523-4724 WWW.COWBELLBREWING.COM



Wine 

Discover Ontario Gewürtztraminer 

Style? Versatile! 

by GARY KILLOPS 

This past April I had the opportunity to 

travel to Alsace, a French wine region 

with a focus on white wines. I had tasted 

many rieslings from Alsace, it’s the grape I 

associate with this region, but it was another grape 

— gewürztraminer — that grabbed my attention. 

Gewürztraminer is the second most planted 

grape in Alsace, with riesling being number one. 

Wine purists would correct me if I called 

gewürztraminer a varietal rather than a clonal mutation 

of traminer/savagnin. “Gewürz” means “spice” 

in German and was added to traminer after an 

aroma mutation. This can be compared to pinot noir; 

pinot gris, pinot grigio, and pinot blanc are mutations 

of the same variety. 

To add a little more confusion, proper spelling 

of the grape is gewürztraminer, except in France 

where it is gewurztraminer (without the umlaut). 

Gewürztraminer is naturally high in sugar and 

lower in acidity, for a softer, rounder mouthfeel. 

The wines are usually fermented off-dry to medium 

sweet and are very aromatic. This sweetness is 

perfect to balance highly-seasoned and spicy Asian, 

Indian, and Thai dishes. It is one of only a few white 

wines that I would also recommend with sweet and 

spicy BBQ ribs and other spicy summertime dishes. 

Gewürztraminer is grown in regions of France, 

Italy, Spain, Australia, New Zealand, Chile and 

right here in Ontario, Canada. How does Ontario 

gewürztraminer benchmark against those I tasted 

in Alsace? That is the question I set out to answer. 

With a few exceptions the Ontario 

gewürztraminers that I tasted tended to be drier, 

higher in acidity and less aromatic than those in 

Alsace. Lychee and passion fruit and floral notes 

were common in all. While all of the Ontario 

gewürztraminers are very good, one in particular 

blew me away! 

Ontario gewürztraminer is quite versatile in 

style from dry to sweet icewine. However, not a lot 

of them find their way to the LCBO. Many of these 

gems are available only from the winery, and are 

worth the trip to purchase. 

Pelee Island 2017 Lola 

Gewürztraminer ($13.95, LCBO#: 

618231) — This one is available at many 

LCBO locations. 

Lola 

is a label 

produced 

by Pelee 

Island Winery. 

While 

not overly 

aromatic, it 

delivers in 

taste. With 

approximately 

28 

grams/litre 

of sugar 

this wine 

is medium 

sweet. There 

is a peachy 

and honeysuckle sweetness and lemon 

zest to counterbalance. An ideal summer 

sipping wine at an excellent price. 

North 42 Degrees 

Estate Winery 2016 

Gewürztraminer ($19.95, 

available at winery only) — 

Invitingly classic aromatic 

rose petal notes on the nose. 

Very floral. Bone dry with 

only 4 grams of sugar/litre. 

Ripe fruit flavours of peach, 

pear and orange marmalade. 

Hints of hibiscus add some 

nice complexity. Elevated 

acidity which leads to a nice 

clean finish. 

North 42’s host Michelle 

Trpcevski recommended 

pairing this wine with Bistro 

42’s curry dishes.


North 42 Degrees Estate Winery 2017 

Late Harvest Gewürztraminer ($29.95/375 

ml bottle, available at winery only) — The 

grapes for this 

wine were picked 

on November 

12, 2017. Picking 

in the late fall 

allows the berries 

to become riper 

and produce more 

sugar, resulting 

in a sweeter 

style of wine. 

This late harvest 

gewürztraminer 

has 62 grams/ 

litre of sugar. It’s 

deliciously sweet! 

Classic 

flowery perfume 

nose along with hints of honey. Layers of 

complexity on the palate. Lychee fruit, sweet 

peach, orange peel, tangerine, and a waxy 

earthiness. 

Recommended food pairing — Muenster 

cheese. It’s a classic Alsatian wine pairing. 

Lacey Estates 2016 Inspired 

Gewürztraminer ($20, available from 

the winery or LCBO#: 132639 in limited 

supply) — Lacey Estates is located 

in Prince Edward County, and 

sourced gewürztraminer grapes 

from Niagara’s Twenty Mile Bench 

sub-region to make this wine. At 9 

grams/litre it is still dry in style. 

Winemaker Kimball Lacey 

offered this information. “Skin 

contact .... this adds to the golden 

colour and will heighten the 

nose and flavours on the wine as 

well. There were three different 

periods of contact on the wine: 

24 hours, 48 hours, and 72 hours. 

All were pressed out separately 

to individual tanks, inoculated 

with the same yeast strain and 

fermented to different levels of 

sugar content. And then filtered 

and blended back together in 

the end. The name ‘Inspired’ was 

given to this wine as the amount of grapes 

that came in (roughly six tonnes) was more 

than I was expecting and it inspired me to try 

some new directions with this wine.” 

Winemaking at Its Finest 

Premium quality handcrafted wine 

at an affordable price 

150 Exeter Road, London 519-652-3998 

somersetfinewines.com 

OPEN TUES–FRI 10am–7pm & SAT 9am–4pm 

WINE TASTINGS • EVENTS 

WOOD FIRED PIZZAS 

HIKE OUR TRAILS! 

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77 km 

Available at the winery, select LCBOs & farmers’ markets 

5547 Aberarder Line, Plympton-Wyoming 

519-899-2479 • altonfarmsestatewinery.com

Small Lot Award Winning Wines 

We invite you to visit Oxley and taste our 

classics (Auxerrois, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir 

& Riesling) and our unique varietals: 

Regent, Wowza & Ripper Red. 

Open daily from 11am–6pm 

www.oxleyestatewinery.com (519) 738-3264 

533 County Rd. 50 E. Harrow, ON 


Aromatic touches of rose and orange zest 

on the nose. The palate offers a pithy, phenolic 

edge that gives texture. Ripe pear and red 

apple fruits. This wine has lovely balance. 

Colchester Ridge Estate Winery 2017 

(CREW) Gewürztraminer ($17.95/winery 

only) — This is it! The one that blew me away. 

Aromatic flowery rose petal, honeysuckle, 

and orange blossom 

on the nose. It delivers 

fresh, ripe peach, pear, 

and juicy citrus on the 

palate. With 20 grams 

of sugar/litre there is a 

lush mouthfeel. There 

is sweetness, and it is 

perfectly balanced and 

really supports this wine 

to the finish. 

Made from estategrown 

grapes, only 50 

cases were produced. It’s 

a great value for such 

small lot production. The 

2017 vintage is currently


available at the winery and is expected to sell 

out by mid-summer. The 2018 vintage will be 

available then. I tasted it too, and it is every 

bit as good as the 2017. 

This Ontario gewürztraminer checks all the 

boxes for what I was looking for. From the 

first sniff of aromas I was taken back to my 

week in Alsace. I encourage you to get out to 

CREW and get this gewürztraminer. 

GARY KILLOPS is a CAPS Certified Sommelier who 

loves to talk, taste, and write about wine. He shares his 

tasting notes on EssexWineReview.com 

Open daily year round 11am-5pm 

Quality Craft Wines 

Beachfront Picnics 

www.sprucewoodshores.com 519-738-9253 

Enjoy Our Wines, Available at the LCBO 

An EPIC Wine Region 

that shares latitude, 

not attitude. 

We pride our winery experiences 

as being laid back and fun. Enjoy 

our scenic wine route by taking 

an unforgettable road trip, or if 

you’re feeling adventurous, pedal 

your way around the shores. 

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for Only $25 

Plus, take 

advantage of 

special offers 

and huge savings 

with our new EPIC 

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Find out more at 

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#WINERYQG | visitwindsoressex.com



The BUZZ 

Culinary Community Notes 

London 

Anita Stewart is University of Guelph’s first food 

laureate, a cookbook author and culinary activist, 

and President of Food Day Canada, highlighting the 

diversity of Canadian terroir. Food Day Canada is 

an annual celebration of our homegrown cuisine. 

The first event was held on August 2, 2003, when 

Stewart launched The World’s Longest Barbecue 

in support of the cattle and beef industry, which 

had been affected by cross border sanctions due 

specifically to the BSE crisis (mad cow disease). The 

event was larger and more widespread than anyone 

could have imagined, with participants from across 

Canada, as well as Canadians living abroad. Since 

then Food Day Canada has evolved into an annual 

mid-summer celebration held on the Saturday of 

the August long weekend. fooddaycanada.ca 

Chef Dave Lamers and Rob D’Amico’s Abruzzi 

Ristorante has a new lunch menu with all dishes 

$20 or less. Lamers also told us the restaurant 

will soon be Feast ON certified. Their new project 

in Hyde Park, Taverna 1331, is well underway. They 

hope to be open by early fall. 119 King Street, 519- 

675-9995, abruzzi.ca 

The Slow Food Chefs Alliance is a network uniting 

chefs around the world who are committed to 

defending biodiversity, traditional gastronomic 

skills and local cultures and supporting virtuous 

food producers. chefsalliance.ca 

Nick Baird and Adil Ahmad’s long-awaited 

Beerlab! has opened next door to Milos Craft Beer 

Emporium. The venue boasts a 25-patron capacity 

with seating at “live-edge planks-cum-tables” that 

fold into the wall, to allow additional space when 

brewing. In season, a glass garage door will open 

up most of the front of Beerlab!, with seating for an 

additional 14 patrons on a small street-side patio. 

420 Talbot Street, beerlab.com 

Powerhouse Brewing Company is family-owned 

and operated, using quality, Canadian-made 

equipment. It recently celebrated its grand opening. 

Powerhouse offers tours, tastes and memorable 

experiences in the revitalized The Factory, in Old 

East Village. 100 Kelloggs Lane, 519-200-5129, 

powerhousebrewery.beer 

Yam Gurung believes in cooking, eating, and serving 

fresh, home-style food using natural, healthy and 

tasty ingredients. He caters to the tastes of his 

customers as Momos on Saturday and Sundays 

at The Market at Western Fair District. Yam has a 

second location at the Food Incubator at Dundas 

and Adelaide in Old East Village. Momos, originating 

in Nepal and Tibet, are meat- or vegetable-filled 

dumplings. Yam’s momos are hand-made, with 

local flour-based casings filled with chicken, pork 

or veggie mix. They are served with Yam’s tomato, 

coriander and garlic sauce. momosatthemarket.com 

Just in time for the warm weather that was so 

long coming, Willie’s Café, Glen Farms, the Keto 

Sweetery and Urban Oven are pleased to announce 

that their shared space at 630 Dundas St., the Food 

Incubator, is now air conditioned! In-the-know 

diners and shoppers have made this foodie enclave 

a regular destination. Now you can enjoy a visit in 

cool comfort. williescafeandcatering.com 

481 Richmond Street 

519-432-4092 

garlicsoflondon.com


Chef Josh Sawyer’s and Elaine Sawyer’s Wich is 

Wich has relocated to the former Willie’s Café, 

on Wellington south of Oxford, but serving the 

same great sandwiches (global flavours, exotic 

ingredients, and textural contrasts). They are adding 

a weekend brunch Saturday and Sunday, and dinners 

Tuesday through Saturday. They will also offer 

catering, grab and go. 731 Wellington St., (Wellington 

& Piccadilly) 519-860-9424, wichiswich.ca 

Hey, Cupcake! will be on the move this fall. The 

popular family-run “cupcakerie” will remain at 

Wharncliffe and Oxford until Labour Day, when it will 

shift to the innovative energy-efficient new West 5 

development at 1305 Riverbend Road. heycupcake.ca 

The In Home Chef has recently partnered with 

London caterer Sebastian’s, and relocated to newly 

refurbished premises. 220 Adelaide St. South, 519 

686-7201, theinhomechef.ca 

Growing Chefs! Ontario is proud to invite you into 

its headquarters at 460 King Street. Part children’s 

education facility, part event venue, it is a truly 

flexible and versatile space, ready to host your 

next event. The social enterprise business model 

generates funds to support the School Project 

initiative, which allows local school children to 

Make HAPPINESS 

a part of your day. 

 

 

 

 

 

Outdoor Farmers’ Market 

Saturdays, 8am–1pm 

NEW! Thursday Night Markets, 4pm–7pm 

Share the passion for locallygrown 

food directly from 

local farmers, 

growers and 

producers. We 

grow it, raise it, 

make bake it — 

local produce, 

meat, cheese and more! Join us outside on the 

Market Square. Both markets will run weekly 

through December. 

Colombian Gastronomy Festival 

Saturday, July 20, 4pm–Midnight 

Stereo Caliente 

Entertainment will 

host this annual 

celebration, offering 

authentic Colombian 

food with the 

unique flavour of 

Latin music and a 

tasty cold beer. 

All are welcome! 

 

 

 

 

 

MARKET HOURS 

Mon–Fri 8am–7pm 

Saturday 8am–6pm 

Sunday 11am–4pm 

Mezzanine & Restaurant Hours Differ

“Reasonably priced, fresh, well-executed 

Ethiopian cuisine ...” — Bryan Lavery, Eatdrink 

LUNCH Wed to Fri 11:30–2:30 

DINNER from 5pm daily 

432 Richmond Street 

at Carling • London 

FAMILY FRIENDLY 

• Vegetarian & 

Vegan Options 

Takeout 

• Catering 

ADDIS ABABA Restaurant 

Tuesday–Saturday 11am–10pm by reservation 

Closed Sunday & Monday 

465 Dundas Street 519 433-4222 

www.tgsaddisababarestaurant.com 

ALWAYS 

a 3-course prix fixe 

menu option 

www.davidsbistro.ca 


benefit from the teachings of professional chefs 

and educators and to develop wholesome, healthy 

eating habits. The website includes all upcoming 

events, current education projects and how you can 

reach out and help. growingchefsontario.ca 

Michelle Pierce Hamilton of The Tea Lounge will 

be participating in the new Richmond District “3rd 

Thursdays” starting June 20th (and every third 

Thursday of the month until further notice). The 

Tea Lounge will be hosting a Singer/Songwriter 

& Chai night, “Nashville style”, from 5 to 8 p.m., 

featuring local artists and offering a big batch of 

Pierce-Hamilton’s signature “Rajputs Chai” with her 

own personal spin to make it higher in absorbable 

antioxidants and nutrients. 268 Piccadilly St., 519- 

601-8327, tealoungelondon.com 

Lavery Culinary Group’s team of culinary insiders 

brings together groups of visitors for intimate, 

immersive culinary and cultural experiences 

where they experience hands-on and behind 

the scenes the passion of our local artisans and 

creators. Attend one of their culinary pop-ups, 

cooking classes or dinners or take a Tasting 

Tour of the Covent Garden Market. They offer an 

interactive culinary and cultural tour centred 

on and around the Forks of the Thames with 

partners such as Museum London, Rhino Bakery 

& Lounge and Eldon House. Or simply explore 

London’s dynamic culinary scene with an insider. 

laveryculinarygroup.ca 

Bake Shop Studio in Wortley Village recently 

expanded its hours. You can visit Kate and her 

creative team (check out the inspiring gallery on 

their website or Instagram) Wednesday–Friday from 

11am–4pm, and on Saturdays from 10am–3pm. 145 

Wortley Road (Upper) bakeshopstudio.com 

Have you tried one of the many house-made desserts 

at Radu Rotariu’s new southend Bocconcini? Chef 

Chris Taylor’s culinary team is known for its silky, 

delectable tiramisu. It’s a great pick-me-up, and the 

perfect way to finish off your meal. 1140 Southdale 

Road West and Boler Rd., 519-601-7799 

Palasad Social Bowl reopened earlier this year 

after a six-month renovation and refurbishment. 

It offers craft cocktails, a variety of local beer, a 

top-notch Caesar (a smoky spin on the classic) and 

a from-scratch small plate menu with pub grub 

items like wings, sliders, tacos, nachos, poutine and 

croquettes, as well as a twist on its famous wood 

oven pizza. 777 Adelaide Street North, 519-645- 

7164, socialbowl.ca 

Afternoon tea on the beautiful grounds of Eldon 

House, overlooking the Thames River, returns July



In Memoriam 

Joel Pastorius 

The Root Cellar, On The Move Organics, London Brewing 

Contributed by Ellie Cook 

It’s with great sadness that we share that 

Joel Pastorius passed away unexpectedly on 

May 30th. Joel has been a core team member, 

co-owner and leader in our organization since 

the very early years, and more than that, he’s 

part of our family. We’re devastated and shaken 

by his loss, as we 

know are all who 

knew him. 

Joel was a 

proud co-owner 

of On the Move 

Organics and 

founding member 

of The Root Cellar 

and London 

Brewing Co-operative. As a group, we wouldn’t 

be where we are today without Joel’s unfailing 

work ethic, quiet stubborn drive, and big-hearted 

spirit. Over the past eight years, Joel filled every 

position: from bread baker to pizza chef, from 

bike deliverer to newsletter author, from bottle 

filler to punny beer namer. Joel was always there 

when he was needed, and he tirelessly supported 

his team. Joel’s work propelled London’s local 

organic food movement forward. He will be 

greatly missed. 

Thank you for your support, 

Ellie, Jeff and Aaron 

2 through August 25, Tuesday through Sunday. 

Light Tea is $15 (incl. HST) per person and includes 

a scone with butter and jam, fresh fruit and a 

small dessert item. Full Tea is $26 per person and 

includes tea sandwiches, a scone with butter and 

More than just a Coffee Shop! 

jam, fresh fruit and a variety of dessert items (24 

hour advanced registration). 481 Ridout St. North, 

eldonhouse.ca 

More than just a coffee shop, the Cream Beanery 

Café offers 24 rotating gelato flavours including 

Keto, Dairy Free, Vegan and Gluten Free. Something 

for everyone! Take out containers in ½ litre and 1 

litre sizes are available. 825 Southdale Road West, 

519-652-1607. Cream Beanery Café is also excited to 

announce that they are opening a second location in 

Mount Brydges — formely O-Joe Coffee Café — at 

22469 Adelaide Road. Congratulations! 

Beautiful 

Canopied Patio 

NOW OPEN! 

PATIO 

OPEN! 

Keto Gelato 

& 

Fresh 

Baking 

Gelato to Go in ½ litre & 1 litre containers 

Try our new Gelato Paninis! 

Pour Over Coffee Bar 

Iced Coffee 

Open Daily 8am–9pm 

New 2nd Location! 

22469 Adelaide Rd, Mt Brydges 

(Formerly O-Joe Coffee) 

825 Southdale Rd W, London 

519-652-1607 

creambeanerycafe.com

Freshly home-made in the heart of the community 

The 

Village 

Teapot 

Licensed 

Dine In & Take Out 

Catering & Private Events 

Breakfast • Brunch • Lunch • Cream Teas 

Wed–Fri 10:30–3:30 

Sat & Sun 10–2 

Reservations 

Recommended 

Check our website 

for our Sunday 

Roast Events! 

13257 Ilderton Road, Ilderton ON 

thevillageteapot.ca 

519-298-TEAS (8327) 

Here’s the truth. 

We’re bringing you the world’s highest quality 

Extra Virgin Olive Oils. 

And we can prove it. 

At The Pristine Olive we pride ourselves on 

bringing you the Freshest, Highest Quality 

Extra Virgin Olive Oils available. 

Sensory evaluated. Lab tested. Certified. 

Visit us for over 65 flavours of oils & balsamics. 

The 

Pristine 


Porcino is reopening at its original location at 

1700 Hyde Park Road. Promising the same great 

favourites from Chef Gino Parco as before —the 

wood-burning pizza oven is back — look for classic 

pastas, paninis, pizzas and more. porcinolondon.ca 

The focus at Gregg and Justin Wolfe’s Los Lobos 

is on platos pequeños (small plates). They 

predominate on a menu of Mexican-inspired fare 

with a contemporary twist. The menu shares the 

love for tacos but also covers a take on classics. We 

love the chilaquiles (corn tortillas cut in quarters 

and lightly fried) with mole, questo blando, and 

cilantro. The crispy cornmeal battered jalapeños 

rellenos stuffed with Monterey Jack and served 

with red salsa or mole sauce are sensational. There 

is a no reservation policy but plenty of seating on 

the spacious patio. 580 Talbot Street, London, 519 

601-8226 

Since 1989 Fellini Koolini’s has been serving Italian 

and Mediterranean inspired foods. They strongly 

believe that a great dining experience combines 

excellent food with a relaxed comfortable ambience 

— an atmosphere where one can sit back and 

explore a large selection of wine along with madefrom-scratch 

pastas, thin crust pizzas, bite-sized 

pinchos (tapas) along with interesting entrées. 

live 

Est. 2012 

884 Adelaide Street N. | London | 519-433-4444 

www.thepristineolive.ca


Don’t forget the signature brown butter Brussels 

sprouts with Parmigiana-Reggiano and pistachios. 

The patio next door at The Runt Club is one of 

London’s best-known secrets. 155 Albert Street, 

London, 519-642-2300, fellinikoolinis.com 

The Root Cellar remains committed to working 

with local, organic, and sustainably-focused 

farms in Southwestern Ontario. Through On the 

Move Organics, the worker-owners have forged 

meaningful relationships and continue to expand 

the network of organic farmers and producers they 

work with. The ingredients of the from-scratch 

menu offerings, with ever-changing specials, 

are all organic (with minor exceptions), and 

procured from the local farming community. All 

of the produce and ingredients in the restaurant’s 

dishes are certified organic, with 80% local in 

season. 623 Dundas Street, London, 519-719-7675, 

rootcellarorganic.ca 

Eduard Nagy and Anita Tasonyi’s landmark 

Budapest Restaurant features a new patio with 

a stunning retractable canopy. Signature dishes 

include a variety of superb schnitzels, chicken 

paprikash, goulash and iconic Hungarian 

cabbage rolls. 348 Dundas Street, 519-439-3431, 

budapestrestaurant.net 

grace is delicious + modern canadian + localfocused 

+ from scratch + hyper-seasonal + 

accessible + welcoming + food-as-ar t + foodas-communit 

y + ethical + unpretentious + for 

celebrations + for af ter work + beautiful, fun, 

demystified wine + curated beer + craf ted 

cock tails + now open 

215 DUNDAS ST · 226 667 4822 

INFO@GRACELONDON.CA 

GRACERESTAURANTLONDON 

GRACELDNONT 

Monday–Thursday: 11:30am–9pm 

Friday: 11:30am–10pm 

Saturday: 11:30am–10pm 

Sunday: 11:30am–8pm 

NOW OPEN 

Reservations: 519-601-7799 

1140 Southdale Road West, London 

www.bocconcinilondon.ca 

Free Parking

as 

ams 

s 

le. 

Fresh Homemade Pasta & Sauces, Meatballs, Lasagnas, Salads & more! 

You could ride in one of these vehicles 

or ... 

You can relax and leave the driving 

to us! 

Diamondz DD provides car and driver retrieval service 

7 days a week, 364 days a year, 

in an effort to offset impaired driving statistics. 

Call us for information on corporate retainers 

and Special Event packages! 

WE ACCEPT 

519-457-9700 

www.diamondzdd.com 

Quality 

Convenient 

Meals 

Bring Marshalls to the Cottage! 

Store-made sausages & buns, Italian sandwiches, pasta 

trays & pasta salads. All ready to heat up on the BBQ! 

Convenient food everyone loves! 

Text MARSHALLS 

to 70734 for a 

$5.00 Off Coupon 

to be used in-store! 

Ask about Blake’s BBQ 

We can cater all 

your family functions! 

580 Adelaide St N, London 

519-672-7827 

MON–FRI 9:30am–7pm • SAT 9:30am–5pm • SUN 11am–5pm 

Full menu available at marshallspastacatering.ca 


Now that Blackfriars Bridge has reopened, it’s a 

perfect time to return to Betty Heydon’s acclaimed 

Blackfriars Bistro. One of the city’s most respected 

caterers, the culinary team at Blackfriars prepares 

innovative, seasonal blackboard specials with 

cutting-edge menus that respect tradition. Be sure 

to try Betty’s signature savoury Stilton cheesecake 

with heritage greens — it’s a classic. 46 Blackfriars 

St., 519-667-4930, blackfriarsbistro.com 

Chef Matt Reijnen and Jessica Washburn’s Pizzeria 

Madre is situated in a 130-year-old building on 

Wellington Street and offers an exceptional dining 

experience. This licensed, casual contemporary 

pizzeria is sophisticated and nicely appointed 

with high ceilings, tile floors, picture windows, 

whitewashed walls and a partially open kitchen. 

The bar and tables were custom-made from locallysourced 

pine. There are two chalkboards featuring 

beers and specialty cocktails. 111 Wellington St., 

519-432-4333, pizzeriamadre.wixsite.com/book 

Looking for help with an event this summer? 

Marshalls Pasta Mill & Bakery, a family-owned 

restaurant, caterer and retail store of home-made 

pasta, house-made sausage, salads and other 

Italian specialties, has you covered. 580 Adelaide 

Street N., 519- 672-7827, marshallspastacatering.ca 

It isn’t too late to make your favourite wine for 

the summer season. Somerset Fine Wines & Gifts 

have rosés, sangrias, whites and reds. The staff is 

knowledgeable and happy to help. 150 Exeter Rd, 

519-652-3998, somersetfinewines.com 

Restaurateur Joe Duby and Chef Cynthia Beaudoin 

of Gnosh have established an appreciative clientele 

by creating a welcoming ambience where patrons 

can enjoy a glass of wine or a signature cocktail at 

the bar, a couple of small plates, or a full dining 

experience, in a casual yet stylish setting (the former 

Blu Duby premises). Gnosh is an unpretentious 

restaurant celebrating honest food and wine, with a 

sophisticated atmosphere and friendly service. Check 

out the patio for al fresco dining. 125 Dundas Street 

(with another entrance off Covent Garden Market 

Place) 519-601-8050, gnoshdining.com 

Pastry Chef Michelle Lenhardt of Rhino Lounge 

and Bakery recently won in the Finger Food/ 

Chocolate category at the recent “Elles sont Food, 

and You?” event in Toronto. The competition is 

open to women chefs, sous-chefs, pastry chefs, 

cooks and food entrepreneurs living in Ontario and 

involved in the gastronomy scene. The culinary 

competition is an event organized by the Consulate 

General of France in Toronto in partnership with the 

Ted Rogers School of Hospitality and Management


at Ryerson University. The goal for the participants 

is to showcase the culinary culture of Ontario 

and/or France by creating the best cocktail party 

possible. For this, they relied on the specificity of 

French culinary culture but also on the diversity 

and richness of Ontario cuisine with the objective of 

showcasing the best local Canadian and/or French 

ingredients. ellessontfoodandyou.ca 

Union Ten Distilling Co. in Old East Village is officially 

open. The distillery will produce whisky, rye, rum 

and vodka. The team has also created the Live Edge 

Kitchen + Bar and the Whiskey Jack Performance 

Hall. “These are places where people can gather 

together to eat, drink and experience unique live 

entertainment. 656 Dundas Street. unionten.ca 

Join London artist Ron Benner at his garden 

installation As the Crow Flies for a corn roast at 

Museum London. Part sculpture, part installation, 

and part performance, this free event will feature 

Benner’s roving corn-roasting wagon, Maiz 

Barbacoa. Enjoy the acoustic sounds of Frank 

Risdale while eating freshly roasted corn on the 

cob. Sunday August 18, from 1–4pm. 

London Bicycle Café recently celebrated its second 

anniversary. 35 Clarence Street, 226-289-2670 

Buy Less. Choose Well. 

Assorted Chef’s 

Knife Rolls 

High quality, Canadian made 

leather goods and chef accessories 

Order Online or see display 

at Harris Electric Eatery in St. Marys 

haversackleather.ca 

I ENJOY 

WONDERFUL 

COFFEE WHILE 

LISTENING 

TO BUSKERS. 

LOVE THIS PLACE. 

THEMARKETWFD.COM 

TERA D. 

GOOGLE REVIEW


Stereo Caliente Entertainment will host the annual 

Colombian Gastronomy Festival on the Covent 

Garden Market Square July 20 from 4pm–midnight. 

All are welcome for authentic Colombian food, the 

unique flavour of Latin music and tasty cold beer. 

Stratford 

“These are exciting times for downtown Stratford, 

with more new and interesting businesses, condo 

development, and a great interest in being in the 

heart of the city,” says Steve Walters, Creative 

Director of The Hub Fine Foods & Market on Market 

Square. The Hub is a corner shop with a café and 

bar, and features prepared take-away food, a 

bakery, a butcher and a market with staples like 

milk and bread and cheese that you can grab with 

your glass of crémant and a croissant, or a beer and 

borscht. A true believer in details, customer service 

and quality, Fine Foods & Market is a welcome 

destination for the food enthusiast”. 31 Market 

Place, 519-508-2337 

The Planet Diner, with candy-apple red upholstered 

booths and a 50s vibe, is warm and welcoming, with 

enthusiastic and well-informed staff. Owner Dee 

Christensen says, “This is where herbivores can 

bring their carnivore friends.” Most items on the 


menu are derived from plant-based ingredients, but 

there are meat-based options. There’s just nothing 

like the Chick’un B urger made in-house with vegan 

buffalo butter. We are fond of the cashew-based 

banana split. 118 Downie Street, theplanetdiner.com 

Do you want to attend a world-class event that 

showcases and supports local agriculture and 

features tastings, pairings and delicious garlic 

dishes? Then mark your calendar for the Stratford 

Kiwanis Garlic Festival, September 7-8. Keep an 

eye on the Facebook page for updates or go to 

stratfordgarlicfestival.com 

The Slow Food Perth County Sunday Market runs 

10 a.m. to 2 p.m. at Market Square at City Hall. You’ll 

find local produce, breads, soups, sweets, crafty 

things, lacto-fermented foods, cheese, grass-fed 

meats, and garden seeds. slowfoodperthcounty.ca 

Stratford Farmers’ Market, a year-round market 

operating since 1855, offers fresh produce, crafts, 

meat and cheese at Stratford Rotary Complex- 

Agriplex, 353 McCarthy Rd, Saturdays 7 am–12 

noon. 519-271-5130. www.stratfordfairgrounds.com 

Stratford Tourism released the 2019 Bacon and 

Ale Trail with a tasting of the latest brews at Black 

Swan Brewery, the first craft brewery to participate 

Far Out ... 

but we like it that way! 

Blair Blvd 

London 

International 

Airport 

Crumlin Rd 

Oxford St 

FLIGHTS & BITES 

HALF PRICE Sharing Plates & Oysters 

Tuesday–Friday from 3:30–5:30pm 

SUNDAY INDUSTRY NIGHTS 

20% OFF! 

New Summer Menus & Cocktails! 

TUES–SAT Lunch & Dinner 11:30am to Close 

SUNDAY Brunch 11am & Dinner 

449 Wharncliffe Road South 

519.914.2699 

MON & TUES: Lunch 11–3 

WED, THURS & FRI: Lunch 11–5; Dinner 5–9 

Weekends: Breakfast 9–12, Lunch 12–3, Dinner 5–9 

Come for the planes and fall in love with the food! 

Patio overlooking 

the airport runway 

NOW OPEN! 

519-455-9005 

katanakafe.ca 

2530 Blair Blvd, London 

Diamond Flight Centre


on the trail. Jobsite Brewing and Shakespeare 

Brewing Company also offer exploratory flights on 

the trail. More tasty ways to enjoy this inspirational 

pairing includes Jalapeno Poppers paired with 

an Ontario craft beer at Boar’s Head Pub and two 

styles of artisan bacon paired with a local craft 

beer at Mercer Kitchen and Beer Hall. Delicious 

bacon or ale inspired soups from Soup Surreal, 

farm-raised McCully’s Hill Farm bacon, juicy Bacon 

Burgers from Best Little Pork Shoppe and Maple 

Bacon Onion spread or Bacon Caesar dressing 

from Bradshaws can be taken home to enjoy. And, 

of course, there is dessert! Madelyn’s amazing 

award-wining butter tarts and Black Angus 

Catering & Bakery’s bacon shortbread will make 

your mouth water, while take away snacks perfect 

for sharing include Rocky Mountain Chocolate’s 

bacon or craft beer toffee caramels and Small-Mart 

General Mercantile’s bacon-flavoured jelly beans! 

Finally, or maybe first, you’ll want to pick up your 

“beer pig” mug at Got It Made and natural beer 

soap with a quirky BeerMo bottle moustache at 

Treasures. You’ll be smiling all along the trail with 

these fun additions. Choose five of the 15 bacon and 

ale inspired treats. Meet local brewers, artisans, 

bakers, and food purveyors. Present one voucher 

at each of your selected stops for one treat within 

where art is 

Hey, Cupcake! a piece of cake 

The ORIGINAL 

LONDON CAKERY & 

GOURMET CUPCAKE 

BAKERY 


seven days of purchase. Purchase trails at Stratford 

Tourism, 47 Downie Street. 

The Livery Yard is a great place for coffee and light 

refreshments in a stunning setting on the opposite 

corner to the Avon Theatre. 104 Downie Street. 

If you love cats then you’ll love Stratford’s new 

The Alley Cat Cafe, opening soon at the corner of 

Market Place and Downie Street (previously Pizza 

Pizza.) alleycatcafe.ca 

Around Our Region 

Chef Eric Boyar’s sixthirtynine in Woodstock 

delivers a homegrown Oxford County “from 

scratch” farm-to-table Feast On certified 

experience. Dedicated to building and nurturing 

strong personal relationships with farmers and 

producers, Boyar travels straight to the source to 

procure items for his Oxford-County-driven menus. 

Boyar’s Chef’s Table is set right in the heart of the 

kitchen, with seating for up to four guests. Tasting 

menus with optional wine pairings are available 

upon request. 639 Peel Street, Woodstock, 519-536- 

9602, sixthirtynine.com 

You’ll walk in the shoes of local cheese maker, Shep 

Ysselstein, when you get a behind-the-scenes look 

100% Local — from Our Farmers to Your Table 

Hormone & Drug-Free 

Ontario Beef, Pork, Bison, Lamb & Chicken 

THE VILLAGE 

MEAT SHOP 

LOCAL - NATURAL - QUALITY 

ASK US Custom Bakery • Walk-In Orders Available 

ABOUT OUR 

“RANDOM 

ACTS OF 

SWEETNESS!” 

CAMPAIGN 

www.heycupcake.ca 

275 Wharncliffe Rd. North 

519-433-CAKE (2253) 

STORE HOURS: Mon–Fri 11–7 

Saturday 10–5 • Sunday 11–4 

WE ARE YOUR LONDON OUTLET FOR 

• Metzger Meat Products • Lena’s Lamb 

• Blanbrook Bison Farm • Little Sisters Chicken 

• Glengyle Farm Organics 

The Market at Western Fair District: SAT 8–3; SUN 10–2 

226-376-6328 • www.thevillagemeatshop.ca

Modern Skincare Made with Love 

The Forest City’s 

all-natural small-batch 

skincare company 

Locally Handcrafted Curated Boutique 

incense, home decor, DIY supplies, 

jewellery, crystals, tarot cards, eco-friendly 

items and so much more ... 

111 Mount Pleasant Ave., London 

Monday–Friday: 10AM – 6PM 

Saturday & Sunday: 10AM – 4PM 

+1 519 630 5305 

info@purdynatural.ca 

purdynatural.ca 

Boho Bazaar Night Market 

Community is our passion. We support 

and sell local, and create events where 

everyone can gather and grow together. 

Stay updated on events @purdynatural 

@bohobazaarnightmarket 


at Gunn’s Hill Artisan Cheese. Gunn’s Hill’s latest 

experience, Affinage 101, explores the art of aging 

cheese. You’ll get a chance to see what happens 

after the curds and whey have been separated 

and the wheels have been pressed. You’ll learn 

how aging a wheel affects the taste profile and the 

care that goes into this part of the cheese making 

process. Want to book your spot in an Affinage 101 

experience? Head over to gunnshillcheese.ca. 

Hessenland Inn is celebrating their 35th 

anniversary in 2019 while welcoming their next 

chapter: the opening of their boutique vineyard, 

Schatz Winery. Hessenland’s popular Mongolian 

Grill — garden-side dining — is back for a 12th 

season. Every Thursday evening through July 

and August, Mongolian Grill offers a delicious 

opportunity for guests to design their own 

signature dish from the freshest ingredients. 

Curate your plate and let Chef Frank Ihrig and 

his crew grill and season your dish to perfection 

at the outdoor grilling station. “Wein and Dine 

Wednesdays” (July 17 & August 14) feature long 

table dinners in the vineyard, with live music 

and special menus paired with fine local wines. 

Reservations required. hessenland.com 

We are hearing great reports about the menus and 

ambience at Jordi Carr and Natalie Crittenden’s 

Harris Electric Eatery in St. Marys. Here’s an 

enticing way to support underprivileged boys in the 

Dominican Republic (DR) while enjoying an exciting 

night of Dominican-inspired food, drink and music. 

Harris Electric Eatery is hosting a community 

fundraising dinner for InspireDR on Sunday, August 

18. There will be two seatings (5 and 7:30pm). 

Tickets are $50 each for dinner, dessert and a 

welcome cocktail. 519-914-8811, 159 Queen St. E., 

St. Marys, harriselectriceatery.com 

We love to pop by Streamliners Espresso Bar in St. 

Thomas for their hand-brewed Las Chicas Del Café 

coffee and fresh pastries. The Specialty Coffee Association 

of Canada recently announced that Anderson 

Hall at the CASO Station will be the location for 

2020 Eastern Qualifiers of Canada’s National Barista 

Championship September 8–10. Maria Fiallos of Las 

Chicas Del Cafe and Streamliners spearheaded the 

effort to bring this exciting event to St. Thomas from. 

The event is appropriately nicknamed “Steam.” 767 

Talbot Street, St. Thomas, 519-631-0999 

Steelhead Food Co. recently opened its own processing 

facility with a Fish and Seafood Market offering 

fresh locally-processed fish. Located in St. Thomas, 

Steelhead provides a selection of premium quality fish 

and seafood — fresh, frozen, and smoked. 5 Barrie 

Blvd, St. Thomas, 226-237-3474, steelheadfoodco.ca


The lavender will be blooming later this year, right 

through July, in the serene gardens of Steed & 

Co. Lavender just outside Sparta in Elgin County. 

The annual Lavender Fairy Festival will be held 

on Saturday, August 10, from noon to 4pm, with 

an afternoon filled with fairy fun and lore. Don’t 

forget your wings! Pirates are also always welcome. 

Children $5, parents and grandparents are free. 

47589 Sparta Line, steedandcompany.com 

Alton Farms Estate Winery has extended its hours, 

and is now open Wednesday–Sunday, noon–6pm. On 

July 6 a pig roast will feature Cowbell Brewing Co., 

Stonepicker Brewing Co. and cheeses from Great 

Lakes Goat Dairy. This family-friendly event will offer 

various activities, live music, hiking opportunities, and 

more. 5547 Aberarder Line, Plympton-Wyoming, 519- 

899-2479, altonfarmestatewinery.com 

We want your BUZZ! 

Do you have culinary news or upcoming events 

that you’d like us to share? 

Every issue, Eatdrink reaches more than 

50,000 readers across Southwestern Ontario 

in print, and thousands more online. 

Get in touch with us at editor@eatdrink.ca 

Submission deadline for the next issue: August 5 

Destination for the food lover 

Featuring specialty foods, 

kitchenwares, tablewares, 

cooking classes and gift baskets. 

115 King St., London Ontario 

jillstable.ca 519-645-1335 

EatDrinkAd_2019.indd 1 2019-06-18 11:37


Music 

The Sounds of Summer 

Music Festival Season Is Here 


By GERRY BLACKWELL 

Music festival season is 

here. Send up a cheer. 

Sunfest, Home County, 

Rock The Park. And one 

we sometimes take for granted but 

shouldn’t: Stratford Summer Music. 

SSM, now in its 19th year, runs 

at indoor and outdoor venues 

around the city from July 15 to 

August 25 — 100 events in total. 

Under new artistic director Mark 

Fewer, it covers the waterfront — 

jazz, classical, avant garde, singersongwriter, 

funk, cabaret. Etcetera. 

“We have so much to look forward 

to this summer that to say we’re 

excited would be an understatement,” 

Fewer says. “As well as the greatest 

variety of any summer music festival 

in the country and the most free 

programming, we have new initiatives 

that focus on youth, music and health 

— and original productions you won’t 

hear anywhere else.” 

For a full run-down, see the SSM 

website: stratfordsummermusic.ca. 

In the meantime, here’s some of the 

coolest stuff. Let’s look first at some 

interesting food and drink tie-ins. 

The Prune restaurant, doyenne of 

upscale Stratford eateries, hosts 11 

a.m. Saturday brunches with musical 

entertainment from July 20 to August 

24. The first, with cellist Stéphane 

Tétreault playing Bach, is sold out, 

and some others were close to selling 

out at time of writing. 

So don’t dawdle. 

The theme this 

year is deep strings. 

Performers include 

London-born Andrew 

Downing on double 

bass (August 17), two 

more solo bassists 

Mark Fewer 

— Joseph Phillips 

(August 3) and Clark Schaufele, 

who also sings (August 10) — and 

cellist Thomas Wiebe (August 

24). For something less stringy, 

there’s percussionist Graham 

Hargrove (July 27). 

Revival House, formerly the 

Church Restaurant, has its Friday 

Night Live jazz series starting 

July 19, 9 p.m. As usual with 

Revival House, you can take in 

the music only or 

Tom Allen 

have dinner too for 

a package price. 

Performers 

include innovative 

pianist-composer 

Stephen 

Prutsman (July 19), 

Duane Andrews 

playing his 

surprising blend of 

Bohemians in Brooklyn 

Celtic and gypsy jazz 

(July 26), the Phil Dwyer Trio, led by the 11-time Juno 

winning saxophonist (August 2), and jazz vocals with 

Newfoundland’s Heather Bambrick backed by the 

Jodi Proznick Trio (August 9). 

One of the more intriguing events 

in the series — and at SSM 2019 — is 

Bohemians in Brooklyn, a cabaret with 

Tom Allen & Co. It tells the story, in music 

and words, of the Brooklyn NY house 

where a fascinating and eclectic crew of 

artists lived in the 1940s.



The Friday Night Live closer (August 23) is Rhapsody 

in Blue/Brazilian Jazz, featuring an all-star band with 

John Novacek (piano), James Campbell (clarinet), 

Graham Campbell (guitar) and Mark Fewer (violin). 

SSM is the only festival (we know of) that has 

its own special craft 

Laila Biali 

brew: Saison 19 from 

Stratford’s Herald Haus 

Brewing Company. 

Sample it at the 

brewery or The Hub 

Pub & Patio. 

SSM has big-name 

concerts too. Laila 

Biali, 2019 Juno winner 

for jazz, is there. The 

raven-haired chanteuse plays 

The Avondale on Wednesday 

July 31 at 7 p.m. 

On Wednesday, July 24 (7 

p.m.), two original Barenaked 

Ladies, Andy and Jim 

Creeggan, bring the family 

duo, the Brothers Creeggan 

to The Avondale. They’re 

joined by guests: CBC Radio 

2 announcer Tom Allen on 

trombone, Robert Carli on 

Ben Heppner 

saxophone and SSM artistic 

director Mark 

Fewer on 

violin. Expect 

eclectic. 

Canadian 

opera superstar 

(and CBC 

broadcaster) 

Ben Heppner 

Old Dominion 

appears in O 

Happy Day!, 

a rousing afternoon 

of gospel — one of 

Hepner’s earliest 

influences — featuring 

The Toronto 

Mass Choir. That’s 

on Saturday, July 27, 3 

Steven Page 

p.m. at The Avondale. 

More festivals? 

Sunfest, July 4 to 7 at Victoria Park, will likely be 

done and dusted by the time you read this. But just in 

case, look for popular returning Canadian world music 

stars like Lazo, Five Alarm Funk and London’s own 

Light of the East Ensemble. 

Lots of exciting visitors from distant parts too: kicky 

Latin jazz combo CaboCubaJazz from Cape Verde, 

Russia’s Namgar, a four-piece group 

playing traditional Mongolian music 

— bet you haven’t heard that before 

— and The Turbans from Britain, 

a big group, in every way, blending 

music from…all over. That’s three of 25, 

chosen almost at random. There’s lots 

more. So go. 

Rock the Park — officially start. 

ca Rocks the Park — runs July 10 to 

13 at Harris Park. As usual, there’s 

something for everyone. 

Wednesday is country music night. 

Hot breaking band Old Dominion, 

winner of the Academy of Country 

Music and the Country Music 

Association Vocal Group of the Year 

award in 2018, headlines. James 

Barker Band, another hot one, and 

Canadian too, is there. How hot? JBB 

boasts 48 million online streams, and 

counting. 

Thursday is rock night. Expect 

edges. Unlikely multi-platinum charttopping 

hard-rockers Five Finger 

Death Punch are coming — and no 

doubt will play material from their 

latest (2018) release And Justice For 

None. In This Moment “unearth a 

furious and focused feminine fire 

from a cauldron of jagged heavy 

metal, hypnotic alternative, and 

smoky voodoo blues” — to quote the 

appropriately purple prose of their 

promotional material. 

Friday and Saturday are mostly 

about rap and hip-hop. The big name: 

multi-award winner Snoop Dogg, 

who has a mere 35 million albums 

sold to his credit. Grammy- and Junowinner 

Shaggy is also coming. Ma$e, 

the pastor, rapper and frequent comeback 

artist is here. He released a new 

album in 2018, Don’t Need Security, his 

first since 2004. So he’s back, again. 

Home County Art and Music 

Festival, the 46th edition, is at 

Victoria Park July 19 to 21. The lineup 

wasn’t finalized at the time of writing. 

Ex-Barenaked Lady Steven Page is 

back for sure. Page has a new album, 

Discipline: Heal Thyself, Pt. II, which 

dropped September 2018. 

Ageless children’s entertainer Fred 

Penner will be there. (Actually, he’s 

72.) Fans of his 1985-1997 TV show



Shaggy 

The Small Glories 

Five Finger Death Punch 

— Fred-heads — are now in their twenties 

and thirties. Their kids will love him. 

Dynamite Americana duo The Small Glories 

from Winnipeg — banjoist Cara Luft, a 

founding member of The Wailin’ Jennies, 

and guitarist JD Edwards — bring their 

Appalachian-tinged harmonies. 

Toronto’s House of David Gang should 

have the crowd up and dancing with classic 

1970s–’80s reggae. Delhi2Dublin will be there 

with a strange and wonderful mash-up of 

Indian Bhangra music, Celtic fiddling, and a few 

From our farm to your table ... 

Award winning hand crafted 

alpine style cheese 

Fresh Cheese Curds 

Cheese Tastings 

Gift Baskets & 

Gift Boxes 

Cheese Trays 

Fondue & Raclette 

other flavours thrown in for good measure. The 

list goes on. Check homecounty.ca for updates. 

Not the festive type? 

For fairly comprehensive local live music 

listings, go to ontariolivemusic.ca (plug in 

“London,” “Stratford” or any other location 

and your desired dates), or the Tourism 

London music page: bit.ly/2JZJ6Rr. 

GERRY BLACKWELL is a London-based freelance 

writer. 

Your love of all things Italian begins at 

Monday to Friday 9am–5pm 

Saturday 9am–4pm 

Stonetown Artisan Cheese 

5021 Perth Line 8 

St. Marys ON 

Gift Cards 

Available 

519-229-6856 

info@stonetowncheese.com 

www.stonetowncheese.com 

519-652-7659 • HWY 401 & 4 • pastosgrill.com



Theatre 

This Summer’s Theatre 

Thought-Provoking, Cringe-Inducing, and Funny 

By JANE ANTONIAK 

Death of an elephant. Farce at a funeral. Racism 

and misogyny in the media. Plays with these 

themes, which are on three stages in Southern 

Ontario, all share one goal: to make you ponder, 

cringe and laugh. Buckle up and get ready for some 

thought-provoking farcical comedy this summer with 

Jumbo at the Blyth Festival, It’s Your Funeral at Port Stanley 

Festival and The Front Page at the Stratford Festival as our 

mid- to late-summer openers. 

Sean Dixon says he wanted to write a play about how 

a group of people would deal with a death crisis. He 

stumbled across the story of Jumbo the elephant, who 

died in St. Thomas while part of the touring Barnum 

circus in the late 1800s. “I was intrigued with the idea 

that the show must go on in this little town in Ontario 

while coping with a crisis, and how it would impact the 

townspeople and how they respond to it,” says Dixon. 

With support from Gil Garrett, artistic director at Blyth, 

some seed money from The Grand Theatre in London 

through the Ontario Arts Council, and research support 

from Steve Peters, 

former mayor of 

St. Thomas and 

MPP for the region 

(and a huge Jumbo 

historian) Dixon 

Sean Dixon 

took several years 

to write Jumbo. 

Garret is directing 

the world premiere 

at Blyth. It includes 

impressive puppetry, 

incredible costumes 

for circus characters, 

and more. 

While circuses 

and the use of 

live animals as 

entertainment have 

diminished greatly 

since Barnum days, 

Dixon feels the story 

has an important 

message today. “It became more 

of a portrait of Jumbo rather than 

about a group of people in crisis. It 

is about how Jumbo affected these 

people in life and death — he moved 

to the centre of it,” says Dixon. 

“It’s a touching story where 

people try to be good to one 

another. It’s not a circus, it’s a 

play. We’re trying to bring a bit 

of spectacle to telling a story. 

There’s an adventure aspect to it. 

It’s funny and there are good guys 

and bad guys in it — the world 

of managers up against the world 

of circus. In the end you realize 

people can come together.” 

Jumbo, until August 10 at Blyth Festival 

Theatre 

Jamie Williams knows a lot about 

acting in comedic farces. The longtime 

actor has been in nearly two 

dozen, including many by the 

popular Canadian playwright Norm 

Foster. Now, he’s taken a turn as 

playwright with his first produced 

comedy, It’s Your Funeral, directed 

by Simon Joynes at the Port 

Stanley Festival Theatre. 

“As far I can see the higher the 

stakes in a farce the funnier it is. 

When we are stressed out and 

we’re stuck for time there is a lot of 

opportunity for misunderstanding. 

When I looked at writing the farce 

I wanted something that was high 

stakes. That, plus I also thought 

that a funeral home would be a 

different and exciting setting for a 

farce,” says Williams. 

Enter George and Helen, trying 

to restart their lives by going into 

the death business. Set in the 1950s



slowed down by the lack of technology.” 

Williams says he is excited to see what Joynes does 

with the play. “He has a great eye and mind for farce 

so I really trust him with this. I can’t wait to sit in the 

audience this time and enjoy it!” 

It’s Your Funeral, August 14 to September 7 at Port Stanley 

Festival Theatre 

Jamie Williams 

in their new funeral home, the story 

focuses on the way the business had 

been operated by the former owner. 

Unlike British farces, this one is set in 

Canada — so no strained accents. “To 

write a farce in modern day is difficult 

because cell phones and computers 

make it easy to connect today so it’s 

harder to misunderstand and hide and 

cover up. Dating it in the 1950s puts 

it in a period of time where things are 

In these times of fake news on digital media, can a 

play from 1928 be modernized and made relevant 

for today’s audience? Bring on The Front Page at 

the Stratford Festival. There is sure to be plenty of 

interest in this rarely-produced play, which became 

famous in 1931 as a film. 

It has been adapted by Michael Healey and is 

being directed by long-time Shakespearean actor, 

TV actor and recent director Graham Abbey. He’s a 

busy guy these days. Abbey is playing in The Merry 

Wives of Windsor at Stratford, he runs The Festival 

Players in Prince Edward County this summer (four 

shows), and he also directs Shakespeare in Toronto’s 

Groundling Theatre. And he has a four-year-old child. 

No wonder he’s taken an office in Stratford (his 

hometown). “I am absolutely crazy! It looked better 

on paper! Thankfully, I have lots of help,” he says. 

Shaw Festival Theatre did a version of The Front Page 

LIVE. ORIGINAL. CANADIAN. THEATRE. 

FROM JUNE 12 TO SEPTEMBER 28, 2019 

1.877.862.5984 BLYTHFESTIVAL.COM 

• JUMBO • CAKEWALK • THE TEAM ON THE HILL 

• IN THE WAKE OF WETTLAUFER • BED AND BREAKFAST



in 1994 but it 

is not a play 

you see that 

often. “That’s 

really exciting 

for me,” says 

Abbey. “It’s a 

great comedy 

but a really 

great story. 

It has a lot 

of humanity 

and hopefully 

lots of 

laughs.” 

This is 

Graham Abbey the first 

farce of this 

magnitude for Abbey as a director. He knows 

the rhythms as an actor but he says he 

“certainly will be cutting my teeth in several 

directions” including directing his spouse, 

Michelle Giroux, as well as Stratford veterans 

Juan Chioran and Ben Carlson. 

While the story fits the original era of the 

1920s and ’30s, including dealing with racism 

2019 

SEASON 

and misogyny, Abbey says it makes sense 

for Stratford to put this on now as Healey 

has modernized some of the story by adding 

two roles: a female reporter and an African 

American reporter. 

“Live theatre will always have a sense of 

commune — everything is alive and in the 

moment. When it is alive and clicking it’s 

like nothing else. This is an amazing era to 

play in — 1920s Chicago is a smorgasbord 

of excitement; it’s a world we don’t see, but 

it is relevant. It’s hard with a comedy as you 

have to keep it light but you can’t ignore the 

elephant in the room. We’re not steering the 

original script far from where it was. We do 

step in the Trumpian age of fake news. We 

haven’t had to step out too far as these [media 

corruption and justice] issues are still coming 

back around or have never gone away.” 

The Front Page July 30 – October 25 at Stratford 

Festival Theatre 

JANE ANTONIAK is a regular contributor to Eatdrink. 

She is also Manager, Communications & Media Relations, 

at King’s University College in London. 

PortStanleyFestivalTheatre 

Reserve Tickets 519-782-4353 www.psft.ca 

WORLD PREMIERE 

GivinG Up The GhosT 

by Arlin Dixon & Matthew Gorman July 3 to July 20 

A comedy about freedom, fresh starts & things that go bump in the night! 

Ed’s GaraGE 

show sponsor 

by Dan Needles July 24 to August 10 

Ed used to be a farmer, now he’s an entrepreneur... or is he a therapist? 

This quirky comedy is sure to delight! 

show sponsor 

It’s Your Funeral 

by Jamie Williams August 14 to September 7 

A fun filled romp! Join us for our season closer & enjoy a wild ride! 

show sponsor



The Lighter Side 

Not Today’s White Bread 

By LINDA OLAVESON 

I 

don’t know the difference between 

couscous and quinoa. Actually, I 

had never heard these words until 

my youngest daughter attended the 

esteemed Stratford Chefs School. Nor did 

I realize what an abysmal cook I was. Early 

in class each student was asked by Chef to 

prepare a traditional family meal from their 

childhood. My daughter chose ham and 

scalloped potatoes and lemon meringue pie, 

our traditional special occasion dinner. When 

Chef deemed the meal boring, brown, and all 

the same texture, she was highly insulted. 

The meal we now fondly refer to as “the 

brown meal” would become an enduring 

family joke. Years later, when 

interviewed by Eatdrink 

magazine, she described 

growing up in a white 

bread culture. Not today’s 

white bread, naan, focaccia or ciabatta, but 

the Wonder Bread variety. Who knew? 

In the first year of chef school my Christmas 

gift was ginger dipped in Callebaut, the 

renowned Belgian couverture chocolate. I 

impress myself just writing these words. 

Really! Chocolate to me at the time was a Big 

Turk chocolate bar. The same Christmas, we 

were treated to handmade Armagnac ice cream. 

I learned that Armagnac is produced in one of 

the oldest distilleries in France. A fourteenthcentury 

cardinal described two of its forty 

virtues as “preserving youth and delaying 

senility.” Grounds, I believed, for at least one 

more serving. 

Aside from these brilliant additions to my 

culinary lexicon, these thoughtful gifts were 

the beginning of my journey to gastronomic 

nirvana. 

Lemon pie à la Sherriff’s pie filling in a 

Crisco crust has become a tangy lemon curd on 

tender shortbread. Potato salad smothered in 

Hellmann’s has been transformed to become 

salade niçoise with fingerling potatoes, Roma 

tomatoes, capers, and anchovies dressed in 

a simple lemon vinaigrette — although I’m 

told potatoes are a non-traditional ingredient. 

Thanksgiving turkey with a generous helping 

of gravy to disguise its dryness has become 

deboned and brined organic turkey laid 

on a bed of dressing and cooked to a moist 

succulence which defies description. I must add 

here however, that my potato bread dressing is 

still a hit with the family, though for how much 

longer I cannot say. 

Fast forward twenty years. My daughter 

is now an accomplished chef, having worked 

in some of London’s finest restaurants, and 

teaching culinary arts to 

aspiring chefs. Food has its 

own network and celebrity 

chefs have become rock 

stars. I still make “the 

brown meal” on occasion and 

we still laugh. I have learned 

a lot. I never say I don’t care for something, 

like Brussels sprouts for example; when 

sautéed in maple syrup and a bit of unsalted 

butter they make my mouth water. 

For dinner tonight she prepared 

shakshouka, a perfectly formed poached egg in 

tomato sauce topped with spinach, an “easy” 

Monday night dinner (so she says) served 

with crisp green beans that my son-in-law 

had picked. When I noted how well the two 

went together her comment was simply, “You 

would think I knew what I was doing.” I always 

laugh when she says this but my favourite 

is when I’m in awe of something she does in 

the kitchen and with a little grin she says, 

“trained professional.” I think this “trained 

professional” should make her mother a nice 

couscous salad for dinner ... and perhaps her 

signature lemon tart for dessert. 

Like many women of her generation, LINDA 

OLAVESON learned to cook from the pages of the 

Five Roses or Purity Flour cookbooks, meals consisting 

mostly of meat and potatoes and a limited selection of 

vegetables. However she believes that thanks to her 

daughter’s guidance, there may be hope for her yet.

LONDON’S 

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Eatdrink #78 July/August 2019

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