QUILTsocial Issue 13


Welcome to another thrilling issue of QUILTsocial! In this issue we show you ways to explore and use utility and decorative stitches for quilting your quilt and sewing on your binding. Using these stitches for quilting is an underrated method, but highly effective. We encourage you to choose any built-in stitch to add oomph to your binding, see the various stitch-outs. We also show you how to make and apply covered cording like a pro, the tutorial includes how to round the corners for a truly elegant finish. Another tutorial in this issue is how to work therm fleece into quilted projects, like the bowl cozy. Other free projects include the tic tac toe game set - all quilted using the latest Recess line from Banyan Batiks, and the quilted bench cushion cover. We take a close look at some awesome features on the Brother Dreamweaver XE and the ImageStitch app and the mysewnet on the PFAFF creative icon. Download this stunning issue!





sleep, quilt, repeat!

* PLUS *

Quilted Tic Tac Toe

Game Board

Bowl Cozies

Cushion Cover

for a Porch Bench

Flying Geese


essential tips

* how to make & apply

covered cording

* making a decorative binding

* best kept secret to beautiful

quilting designs

* exploring utility stitches

* quilting with decorative


* how to use Therm Fleece in

quilted projects

* 8 essential tips for


free standing lace




Sewing &

Embroidery Machine


• mySewnet —Wi-Fi



• 7” Large display with

capacitive touch

•Embroider designs up to


•Interchangeable Dual Feed

foot included

Introducing the Newest

in Sewing and Embroidery Innovation from




Sewing Machine

•Interactive Colour Touch




• 10” (250mm) of spacious

sewing surface

•Exclusive stitch techniques:

Dimensional stitches

and Theme stitches

•Straight stitch needle

plate and sensor



SYSTEM, and EXCLUSIVE SEWING ADVISOR are exclusive trademarks of Singer Sewing Limited LLC. HUSQVARNA

SYSTEM, and EXCLUSIVE SEWING ADVISOR are exclusive trademarks of Singer Sewing Limited LLC. HUSQVARNA

and the “H” Crown Device are trademarks of Husqvarna AB. ©2018 Singer Sourcing Limited LLC. All rights reserved.

and the “H” Crown Device are trademarks of Husqvarna AB. ©2018 Singer Sourcing Limited LLC. All rights reserved.


editor's letter

Every time you sit at your sewing machine is

it work or play?

I've been working on my Spirals

quilt, a quilt that was almost

abandoned. But through some

act of fate, it was ripped out and

redesigned and used to practice

quilting using decorative stitches.

I learned that it's best to keep the

decorative stitches from crossing

the seam intersections and to

use simpler, 'quiet' stitches for less

overall movement. Mesmerized,

I watched all the edges of the

spirals stitch out, that's a lot of

rows! A laser pointer would have

made the task a lot easier to

keep all my decorative stitches

straighter, but now I'm nitpicking.

More on this quilt in the next issue.

In this issue, the fun continues.

Sarah Vanderburgh has made

a tic tac toe game board using

Banyan Batiks Recess fabric

collection, making it a great gift

for toddlers (and a quiet one?)

See what Christine Baker has to

say about her experience and

cool tips on using utilitarian and

decorative stitches on the Brother

Dreamweaver XE to quilt. The

possibilities for quilting options

are indeed infinite!

Claire Haillot has a lot of fun

adding oomph to a simple

binding using the PFAFF creative

icon stitch creator. If you're uber

creative and can imagine all

sorts of quilting designs, this may

be for you!

Jean Boyd shows you how to

play with strips to make a bench

cushion and we know, there too,

the combinations are endless.

You'll love how this project gives

you the freedom to choose your

ideal combination of strips.

It's still that time of year when

hot soups are such a comfort, see

how easy it is to make a bowl

cozy for that yummy bowl of

soup. And actually, I'll be honest

I'm not a winter person, but I

enjoy how winter offers me more

time at the sewing machine than

let's say… outside in the garden.

Enjoy the issue!


follow me on



.com | issue 13




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ALL of the above!


eat, sleep, quilt, repeat

* projects

* techniques

* product reviews



Visit QUILTsocial.com

and download our free ebook

Elaine’s Quilting Tech Tips!


Carla A. Canonico



John De Fusco



John De Fusco, Carla A. Canonico


Christine Baker


Claire Haillot


Jean Boyd


Sarah Vanderburgh



Carla A. Canonico


Sondra Armas

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QUILTsocial is a quarterly eMagazine published by A Needle

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©2019 QUILTsocial. All rights reserved. Issue 13. ISSN 2368-5913.

No part of this publication may be reproduced without written

permission from the publisher.

All designs, patterns, and information in this magazine are for

private, non-commercial use only, and are copyrighted material

owned by their respective creators or owners.

Advertiser Index

48 A Needle Pulling Thread Magazine

17 Banyan Batiks

47 Brother

46 Business Directory

39 Coats

27 Gütermann Creativ

02 Husqvarna Viking

44 Melissa Marginet


42 QUILTsocial.com


4 .com| issue 13



issue 13

c o n t e n t s





















6 fun fat quarters turn into a quilted game

Piecing X blocks for quilted game

Piecing O blocks for quilted game using trendy Banyan Batiks, Recess

Making a quilted tic tac toe game board

Completing the quilted tic tac toe game set

Bowl cozies: a fun and useful project!

5 easy steps to finish your bowl cozy

Making a cushion cover for the porch

Arrange strips, sew and spray baste

How to make and apply covered cording like a pro!

The beauty of quilting with the PFAFF creative icon

PFAFF creative icon stitch creator lets you add oomph to a simple binding

Why I’m so excited about the PFAFF ImageStitch app

The best kept secret tobeautiful quilting designs

How the PFAFF creative icon helped me finish a UFO quilt

Exploring utility stitches on the Brother Dreamweaver XE

Infinite possibilities for quilting with decorative stitches

Machine quilting with a serpentine stitch

Decorative stitches plus laser pointer = beautiful machine quilting

8 essential tips for embroidering free standing lace




issue 13 5

6 fun fat


turn into a

quilted game

Sarah Vanderburgh

Quilted game made with Recess line from Banyan batiks

How fun is this?! The Recess line from Banyan batiks is now in quilt

shops and the designs definitely shout fun. But not just any kind

of fun – fun with friends, outdoor fun, but especially fun to be had

when playing games!

This line of fabric inspired me to create a game to play, well,

anywhere! Not an original game, but a classic one, pieced and

quilted to travel or simply take outside to the backyard. Maybe

a teacher might even enjoy having it in a classroom? Shhh! Let’s

go play in our sewing rooms and make this quilted game using

Northcott’s latest, Banyan Batiks.


The 6 fat quarters from the Recess line used in this sample are:

• board game top fabric 80115-91

• board game backing fabric 80110-29

• symbol fabric X 80114-63

• symbol fabric X background fabric 80110-94

• symbol fabric O 80114-99

• symbol fabric O background fabric 80111-43

You’ll also need some batting to quilt the game board and pieces:

• cut one piece 18” x 21½” for the board

• cut ten 5½” squares for the game pieces

There’s enough fabric to make a travel bag to carry all the game

pieces too! On to the cutting instructions.

Quilted game board tied up


6 .com| issue 13


Photos by Sarah Vanderburgh

cutting instructions

symbol fabric X 80114-63

• 5 – 5½” squares

• 5 – 1½” x 8½” strips

• 5 – 1½” x 9½” strips

symbol fabric X background fabric


• 2 – 1½” x 21 strips

• 5 – 5½” squares

Cut pieces from fat quarter in this order

to make best use of fabric:

Cut 1 – 3” x 21” strip.

Subcut into 2 – 1½” x 21” strips.

Cut 2 – 5½” x 21” strips.

Subcut into a total of 5 – 5½” squares.

Reserve 4” x 21” strip.

symbol fabric O 80114-99

Cut 6 – 1½” x 21 strips.

Subcut strips to make total pieces

required, starting with longest strips and

working down to squares.

• 10 – 1½” x 5½” strips

• 10 – 1½” x 3½” strips

• 20 – 1½” squares

symbol fabric O background fabric


Cut pieces from fat quarter in this order

to make best use of fabric:

Cut 2 – 5½” x 18 strips.

Subcut 1 strip into 3 – 5½” squares;

subcut remaining strip into 3 – 1½”


Subcut second strip into 2 – 5½” squares

and 4 more 1½” wide strips – cut each

strip into 3 more 1½” squares.

Cut 1 – 3½” x 18 strip.

Subcut into 5 – 3½” squares.

From remaining fabric cut 3 – 1½” wide

strips (should be around 3½” in length).

Subcut into 1½” squares to get to total of

20 – 1½” squares.

The game board fabric will be cut as

it’s made.

We’re off to a good start! Cutting into

these fun fat quarters of Recess fabric

makes me want to play in my sewing

room all day.

Quilted X block game pieces.

Quilted O block game pieces.

Piecing X blocks for quilted game

The Recess fabric line has some bold

colorways to choose from, but I chose

to go with the gray-blue and the purple

colorway and its 'masculine' looking prints.

Let’s continue with the pieced X


Make X blocks

1. Cut one fabric X background square

through one diagonal.

2. Sew one cut edge to a long side of

Fabric X 1½” x 8½” strip; press the

seam to the background fabric.

3. Sew the remaining background half

along its cut edge to the opposite

side of the Fabric X strip, lining up

the two background halves using the

points as visual guides.

Press the seam to the background fabric.

Background cut on diagonal with X strip ready to sew

4. Cut diagonally through the unit

opposite the pieced in Fabric X fabric.

5. Sew one cut edge to a long side of

Fabric X 1½” x 9½” strip; press the

seam to the background fabric.

Second diagonal cut

6. Sew the remaining half of unit along

it’s cut edge to the opposite side of

the Fabric X strip; this time you can

also use the pieced strip in Fabric X

to line up the halves visually.

Press the seam to the background fabric.




issue 13 7

Line up inset strips and pin halves together.

Trim the pieced X block to size.

7. Trim the unit to 5½”

square. I used a 6½”

square ruler and lined up

the guidelines to make

my first two cuts along

the top and right sides.

Then I turned my unit and

trimmed again. I did this two

times and kept lining up my

5½” guide marks on the ruler

as well as the diagonal line

in the middle of the ruler

through the middle of my

Fabric X.

8. Repeat steps 1-7 to make

4 more X blocks.

The pieced X blocks are ready.

I really like the blue print

from the Recess fabric line – it

makes me think of outdoor

fun! Next up, we piece some

O blocks.

Five pieced X blocks

Piecing O blocks

for quilted game

using trendy Banyan

Batiks, Recess

Opposite corner squares sewn onto middle

unit square

We’ll use two different fat quarters from

the Recess fabric line to make pieced O


Make O blocks

To make one O block you’ll need:

from O fabric

• 2 – 1½” x 5½” strips

• 2 – 1½” x 3½” strips

• 4 – 1½” squares

from O background fabric

• 1 – 3½” square

• 4 – 1½” squares

Make middle unit

1. Place one symbol fabric O square

right side down on corner.

2. Sew diagonally through middle of

square parallel to corner – see photo

on the left.

3. Repeat on opposite corner.

4. Cut corners leaving seam allowance.

Press the seams to the added squares.

5. Repeat on remaining 2 corners. Unit

should measure 3½” square.

Corner squares trimmed and pressed

Four corner triangles added


8 .com| issue 13


Steps to make top and bottom rows of pieced

O blocks

Make top and bottom units

1. Place one background fabric square

right side down on one end of a

Fabric O 1½” x 5½” strip.

2. Sew diagonally parallel to the corner.

See photo.

3. Repeat on opposite end of the strip

with second background fabric

square, with the diagonal again

parallel to the corner.

4. Cut corners off leaving seam

allowances. Press the seams to the

added squares.

5. Repeat steps 1-4 on the remaining

1½” x 5½” strips.

Making a quilted

tic tac toe

game board

Now all we need is a board to play on!

My husband really likes the fabric I

picked to use as the background for the

quilted game board.

Cut background fabric into 3 – 6½” x

18” strips.

1. Sew 1½” x 18” Fabric O background

strip between two pieces of

background fabric; press seams to

the background fabric.

2. Sew second background strip

to opposite site of Fabric O

background strip.

Layout of three rows to make pieced O block

Assemble middle row

1. Sew long edge of 1½” x 3½” strip to

one side of the 3½” square unit; press

the seam to the strip.

2. Sew remaining 1½” x 3½” strip to the

opposite side of the 3½” square unit;

press the seam to the strip.

Layout for middle row assembly of pieced O block

3. Repeat with a second Fabric O

background strip to the sewn unit

followed by final background strip.

Press seams to the background fabric.

Layout for adding columns to game board.

Five completed pieced O blocks

Assemble O block

1. Sew one 1½” x 5½” strip unit to the

top and one to the bottom of the

unit made in step 2; press the seams

to the added strips.

The block should measure 5½” square.

Repeat to make 4 more pieced O blocks.

The Os are almost ready to play with the

Xs – both still need to be quilted into

game pieces. I really like how the flying

paper planes get some special attention

in the middle of the pieced O blocks. The

Recess fabric line has been nothing but

fun to design with and create this quilted


Quilted game board




issue 13 9

4. Cut the unit horizontally into 3 – 5¾”

x 20½” background units.

5. Sew a 1½” x 20½” Fabric O strip

between the three units to make the

game board. Press the seams to the

background units.

But wait, I almost forgot!

Before sewing, make a thin tie out of

Fabric O background fabric to sew into

the game board seam:

1. Cut a 1½” x 20½” strip of Fabric O

background fabric.

2. Lay Right Side Down on ironing

surface and press ¼” over to the back.

Repeat on other edges.

3. Press ¼” over at each end then fold

and press the two pressed edges


4. Sew one seam down the middle of

the tie.

I put safety pins in at this point through

all three layers of the top to keep the

layers from shifting before quilting it.

Change to a quilting needle and

embroidery presser foot to topstitch

around the board.

Lining up blue strips and pinning final

background row to board.

Game board should measure 18” x 20½”.

Turning gap pinned and safety pins in the

game board.

Remember to watch for the tie and keep

it on the other side of the needle when


Completed game board top

Trim backing fat quarter to size (18” x


Layer batting with backing Right Side Up

on top, then the game board Right Side


Pin all the way around leaving a 2” – 3”

turning gap along one short side.

Layers of game board ready for envelope method

Tie edges pressed to the wrong side

Bend the tie in half and pin the folded

end between the backing and game

board in the middle of the short side

opposite the side with the turning gap.

See the photo below.

Sew all the way around the game board

to sew the layers together, backstitching

at each end of the turning gap and over

the folded tie end for extra strength.

Check that all three layers are secured in

the seam all the way around the board,

then clip the excess seam allowance at

each corner.

Turn the layers through the turning gap

and roll the seams flat with your fingers.

Use a tool of your choice to push out the

board corners.

Topstitching game board with a tie to the right of

the stitching

I stitched ¼” away from the strips on

the board. You can add more quilting if

you’d like.

The game board is quilted. The Recess

fabric really gets to show off on the

board, doesn’t it? All that’s left is to quilt

the game pieces with some more Recess

fabric and make a traveling bag for them.

A little more sewing before we can play!

Tie tucked between layers to be sewn into seam


10 .com| issue 13


Completing the quilted tic tac toe game set

I’ve had some serious fun sewing Banyan

Batiks Recess fabric into a quilted game.

Let's finish it!

Make blocks into quilted playing pieces

1. Sandwich playing piece (X or O) with

the corresponding background fabric.

2. Lay batting square on pinning surface.

3. Place backing square Right Side UP.

4. Place pieced block Right Side DOWN.

5. Pin around leaving a 2” turning gap

on one side.

6. Sew around, backstitching on both

sides of the turning gap.

7. Clip corners then turn playing piece

right side out.

8. Finger press gap seam and topstitch

around edge.

Repeat on remaining 9 game pieces.

I quilted the corresponding shapes in

the game pieces too – scroll back up

to the first photo to see. The pieces do

need some quilting to keep them flat

and so that they will hold their shape if

you need to wash them.

Now that the quilting is done it’s time to

make a bag to carry all the game pieces

in. Lucky for us we have enough fabric

leftover from the fat quarters to make

one just the right size.

Pieced O blocks ready to be quilted

Make carrying bag

Trim leftover O fabric to 8” x 21½”.

1. Fold over each short end to make

hems – fold ¼” then ¼” again and sew.

2. Fold fabric in half Right Sides

Together with hems lined up.

3. Before going further make a tie with

leftover X fabric for the bag:

Cut X fabric to 1½” x 15”.

X block pieces

Repeat pressing and folding to make

a tie in the same manner as tie made

for the game board. (press ¼” each side

towards the middle, press in half with

each end folded ¼” in before pressing in

half; sew once down the middle)

4. Fold tie in half and pin approximately

1” – 2” down between the folded bag

fabric and pin to secure.

5. Sew down each side of the

bag, stitching over the tie twice,

backstitching at the hem edge.

6. On one bottom corner of the bag,

line up the ruler with a 1½” square

and cut off a square of fabric under

the ruler.

7. Make boxed corners by opening

the fabric corner then making a

straight edge between the corner

of the square and sew across.

8. Repeat on opposite bottom corner

of bag.

9. Turn the bag right side out.

Optional: Zigzag or serge the seams of

the bag (nice touch for gift giving and

probably necessary if you need to wash


Now that the sewing fun is over, it’s

time to play with the quilted game! The

‘playability’ is huge and making it portable,

with large size pieces just increases the

fun. From young children to older, take

your quilted game board made from

Recess fabric out for some fun!

Bag fabric hemmed and tie made

Cutting square to box bag corner

Boxed corner seam

Carrying bag beside quilted game pieces


Bowl cozies: a fun and useful project!

Jean Boyd

Bowl cozy made from 2 squares of fabric and Therm Fleece

In June 2018, I showed you how to use Therm Fleece to make

some coasters and mug rugs, in my post called How to use

fusible web that goes in your printer and its characteristics.

This heat resistant material is used for hot and cold insulation to

provide protection from hot surfaces up to 390˚. Therm Fleece

is designed as a liner and should not make direct contact with a

heat source. It’s the perfect product to use for potholders, oven

mitts, tea cozies and here – a bowl cozy.

Therm Fleece and fabric ready to be sewn

Bowl cozies are easy to make from just 2 squares of fabric and

are great for holding a hot soup bowl or cold bowl of ice cream

while sitting in front of the television or out on the patio. They

can be made in any size to suit your favorite bowl.


makes 1 bowl cozy

• 2 – 10” squares of fabric. I used fabric from Northcott Banyan

Batiks collection, Visual Sound.

• 2 – 9½” squares of Therm Fleece. Cut a little off the corners to

reduce bulk.

Therm Fleece: perfect for hot mats, mug rugs, bowl cozies and more

Sewing Instructions

• Mark a center horizontal and vertical line on the white side

of each Therm Fleece square.

• Mark a small line on each center line, 2¼” from the outside


• Pin 1 square of Therm Fleece to the wrong side of each

fabric square. Have the shiny side facing the wrong side of

the fabric.

• Using a walking foot, machine baste Therm Fleece to the

wrong side of one fabric square, stitching close to the edge

of the Therm Fleece. Have the shiny side next to the wrong

side of the fabric. Do the same with the other fabric square.

• Fold the square, with Therm Fleece attached, in half on one

of the drawn lines. Stitch a dart from the small line to the

outer edge, making the dart about ¾” wide. Do this on all 4

sides. Do the same on the other fabric square.

• Cut away the extra fleece from the darts and the outside

edges to eliminate some bulk.


12 .com| issue 13


Mark center lines and pin Therm Fleece to fabric.

Sew a small dart on each side.

Cut away extra fleece from darts.

5 easy steps to finish your bowl cozy

With just a few easy steps, you’ll

have your bowl cozy ready to use

in no time. Let’s get started!

• Layer the 2 fabric squares,

with Therm Fleece attached,

right sides together.

• Attach a walking or even-feed

foot to your machine.

• Using a ½” seam, stitch all

around the outside edge,

leaving a 3” opening for

turning. Try not to leave the

opening where the dart is.

You can slightly round the

corners for a nicer finish.

• Trim seam allowance as


• Turn the bowl right side out

through the opening. Handstitch

the opening closed.

• Top-stitch around the

outside edge.

• You can also do some simple

straight-line quilting in the

center of the bowl to make

sure the layers stay together


Photos by Jean Boyd

Stitch Therm Fleece and fabric layers together.

Simple straight line quilting in the center

Top-stitch around outside edge

This size bowl cozy will fit most regularsize

soup bowls, but it’s easy to make

smaller or larger bowl cozies, just by

changing the size of the fabric squares.

Smaller bowl cozies will need shorter

darts and larger ones will need longer


You could also use just one square of Therm

Fleece if you wish.

You’re sure to enjoy using up some fabric

scraps along with Therm Fleece to make

some attractive and useful bowl cozies.

Another bonus – they're reversible!




issue 13 13

Making a cushion cover for the porch

This project is another one that will

help use up some of your fabric stash

and create a bench cushion that will be

perfect for both inside and outside use.

The bench pillow form I used is 16” x 38”

and is available in fabric and craft stores.

I used fabrics from Northcott Banyan Batiks

collection for my bench cushion cover.


• ½ yd [.4m] focus fabric; I used a large

floral print

• ½ yd [.4m] accent fabric (bright

green); this is used for the cushion

front and the corded edge

• ¾ yd [.7m] background fabric

• 1 yd [.9m] cushion back; I used the

focus fabric with the large floral print

• 120” of cording. I used a soft, ½”

diameter Creativ Dekor cotton cording.

Bench cushion

Bench cushion form

cutting instructions

• accent fabric 2 – 1½” x WOF (width of

fabric, approximately 40”)

• background fabric 3 – 8½” x WOF

• focus fabric 2 – 6½” x WOF

• for ease of handling, cut the WOF

strips in half so they measure

approximately 20”.

Let’s start sewing!

• Make a strip set using 2 background

strips, 1 accent strip and 1 focus fabric


• Press seams in one direction. Press

carefully so you don’t distort the

strip set.

• Cut the strip set into 2½” segments.

You’ll get 8 segments from the strip set.

• Make 2 more strip sets like this and

cut them into 2½” segments. You

need 19 – 2½” segments for the

cushion top, so you’ll only need to

cut 3 segments from the last strip

set. Keep the rest of the strip set for

another project – maybe a smaller


Keep reading to learn how to re-arrange

the strips to create your own original

cushion top!

Banyan Batiks fabrics

Strip set cut into 2½” segments


14 .com| issue 13








Create your own original design!

Once you have your 19 – 2½” strips cut, it’s time to start arranging them to

create the cushion top. You can use a design wall or lay the strips on the

pillow form until you find a pleasing design.

When you’re satisfied with your design, sew the

strips together using a ¼” seam. Handle carefully

so you don’t stretch or distort the strips.

Design Method 1: Arrange the 2½” strips on a design wall.

Design Method 2: Arrange the 2½” strips on the pillow form.

Sew the strips together.




issue 13 15

Trim the top and bottom of the pieced rectangle so the edges

are even. It should be 38½” wide. If it isn’t, you can add one

more 2½” segment.

Quilting the cushion top

I did some “stitch in the ditch” quilting on all the seam lines

and then added more vertical lines in a random design using

monofilament “invisible” thread. There are several different

invisible threads available in craft and quilt shops. They come in

both light and dark colors, and also in different weights.

You can also use a light-weight thread such as Gütermann 100%

polyester in the color of your choice.

Trim the top and bottom to make the edges even.

Cut 1 piece of lightweight batting (there are several to choose

from) and 1 piece of backing fabric so they are the same size

as the cushion top. The backing fabric won’t show when the

cushion is finished, so this is a good chance to use up some

“ugly” fabric from your stash!

Layer cushion top, batting and backing. Pin or baste the layers

together. 505 Spray can be used for this. Make sure to read the

instructions on the can before using this product. You can also

pin-baste the layers together with safety pins.

Stitch with light-weight or monofilament (invisible) thread.

Make sure to use your walking or even-feed foot when machine

quilting. If you have a foot with an open toe, it makes it even

easier to see where to stitch.

Layer top, batting and backing and baste with 505 Spray or safety pins.


16 .com| issue 13


Use a walking foot for machine quilting.

When the quilting is finished, trim the rectangle to 17” x 39”,

centering the design as desired.

I find that the finished cushion top is a better shape if you

round the corners or cut them on a slight angle. To do this, I

made a cardboard template to use as a guide for cutting. I

started the angle at 3½” from the corner and removed about ½”

of fabric at the widest point at each corner.

Broken Glass is a new Essentials collection that mimics the look of broken

glass. This bold line achieves its radiant color through a process applied

to the fabric by hand. Our master artisan submerses his hands in a gel-like

substance and hand paints each piece. Broken Glass comes in 22 colors and

will give a striking effect to any project!

Visit BanyanBatiks.com to view the entire collection, and use the Product

Finder tool to search for a local quilt shop that carries Broken Glass.

Tilting at Windmills

48’’ x 72’’

by B.B Studio

Free Pattern Download

at BanyanBatiks.com

FREE Pattern & Video Tutorial

Watch the step-by-step tutorial by

Laura Coia of Sew Very Easy as she

creates the Tilting at Windmills quilt

at youtube.com/SewVeryEasy!


How to make and

apply covered

cording like a pro!

Bench cushion finished with covered cording

Make the cording

• I used a Creativ Dekor cotton cording

that was ½” in diameter, but a smaller

cord would work equally well.

• From green accent fabric, cut 3 strips

25⁄8” x WOF (width of fabric). Cut the

ends of each strip on a 45° or 60° angle.

• Sew the strips together to make 1

strip long enough to go all around

the cushion top with about 8” extra.

• When you come to the corner, stop

stitching about ½” from the corner

and back stitch. Make a diagonal cut

in the seam allowance of the cording.

This will help to ease the cording

around the corner.

Use a zipper foot to stitch close to the cording.

Cotton cording for the edge finish

• Fold the green strip around the

cording, right side out.

• Using a zipper foot, stitch as close to

the cording as possible. Be sure to

keep the outside edges of the green

fabric even.

• If necessary, trim the seam allowance

so it is ½” after the stitching is finished.

• Place one end of the covered cord

in the center of one side of the

cushion top.

• Starting about 12” from the corner,

sew the covered cording to the

cushion front. Make sure to stitch

as close to the cording as possible

and keep all outside raw edges even.

Using a small plastic ruler pushed

against the cording will help you stay

close to the cording.

Make a diagonal cut in the seam allowance.

• Continue sewing the cording around

all sides of the cushion top.

• When you come to the last side,

stitch about 8” past the corner and

back stitch. Remove the cushion top

from the machine.

• Adjust the cording so it lies flat.

Stitch the 2 ends of the cording

fabric together using a 45° or 60°

seam. Finger-press seam open. Trim

excess fabric.


18 .com| issue 13


Stitch covered cording to the cushion top.

Sew ends of cording fabric together.

Overlap edges of backing fabric and baste in place.

• Trim the cording so the two ends

butt up against each other.

• It’s a good idea to tape these ends to

prevent fraying.

• Finish sewing the covered cording on

the cushion top.

• Trim the cushion back so it is the

same size as the cushion front,

keeping the opening in the center.

• Trim the corners of the cushion back

on an angle so they match the front.

Trim corners of backing fabric to match cushion front.

Trim ends of cording.

You’re almost finished! Let’s make the

cushion back.

• From backing fabric, cut 2 pieces 17½”

x 25”.

• Fold 1 short edge on each piece to

make a double fold hem and stitch

in place.

• Overlap the 2 pieces by about 4” and

baste the 2 sections together.

Jean Boyd


• Place the cushion back and front

right sides together.

• Pin the corners together first. Then

pin as needed to keep all outside raw

edges even.

• Sew the front and back together,

using a ½” seam. Stitch as closely as

possible to the cording.

• Insert the bench pillow form and

adjust it as necessary for a good fit.

Sometimes, the corners of the pillow

form don’t fill the corners fully, so I

just place a little bit of extra stuffing in

those areas.

Enjoy your custom-designed bench

cushion to enjoy!




issue 13 19

The beauty of

quilting with the

PFAF F creative icon

Claire Haillot

With the winter and holidays already upon us, I've

been keeping myself busy indoors with my fantastic

PFAFF creative icon and I must admit that it has

changed my perspective on quilting.

PFAFF creative icon comes with a carrying case for the embroidery unit and accessories.

Making it that much easier to bring it to the cottage!

I’ve had fun making quick and easy quilt projects

while testing out the creative icon. However I have

fallen short on the quilting part in the last two

projects. I continuously ran out of time. It’s one

thing quilting for the fun of it, but there’s added

pressure when you have deadlines.

So for the holiday season, I decided not to start

any new project but to simply learn how to use

the embroidery side of the creative icon. Cause

let’s face it… so far I have really LOVED working

with it, but haven’t used it to its full potential.

If you’ve been reading all my blogs on QUILTsocial

so far and have been thinking about purchasing a

PFAFF machine, all of the features I have presented

are available on the PFAFF performance icon as

well. What makes the creative icon so special is that

it also comes loaded with the embroidery tray and

hoops as well as many designs and apps to help

you create more.

My April posts featuring a baby quilt finally quilted!

To start off, let’s go back to my April posts featuring

a baby quilt featuring the lovely Sleepy Sloth fabrics

from Northcott. All that was left was to quilt some

hearts in the main blocks. I had my design in mind

but I fell in love with the heart border design that

was already programmed into the creative icon. So

I decided that could be an easy introduction to the


I finally mustered up the courage to open the lovely

PFAFF Embroidery Carrying Case that protects the

embroidery unit with all the hoops. It’s all very well

secured and It made me realize that I could easily

travel with the case should I need to bring it up to

the cottage.

Due to the thickness of the quilt, I had to work my

quilt onto the hoop. I was able to unscrew the clip

of the hoop to ensure that it fits into it no problem.

Embroidering the heart border design on my quilt using the PFAFF creative icon was nice

and easy once I had secured the quilt in the hoop.


20 .com| issue 13


So the trick is to position the first hoop with the

hook underneath your quilt, ensuring that the hook

is located on the bottom right.

Photos by Claire Haillot

Position the quilt and add the

second hoop.

Ensure that you see the writing so

that you know it’s in the correct

position. Then clip to close. I used the

biggest size hoop which allowed me

to embroider up to 13.11” x 13.78”. I

duplicated the design 4 times and

aligned it perfectly to my block. It really

does help to have the biggest screen

possible on the machine. I was able

to play with the precision positioning

on the screen to ensure that the

embroidery would fall exactly where I

wanted on the quilt.

I found it easy to embroider using

the single hole plate and the 6D

embroidery foot. When the straight

stitch plate is attached, the machine

automatically sets to straight stitch

mode, preventing damage to the

needle and plate. The large workspace

really helped out as I was positioning

the hoop in the middle of the quilt and

had at least 10” of the quilt hanging out

on the right hand side.

I also picked up some Sulky rayon 40wt

thread in the midnight blue color to

ensure that the thread wouldn’t break

while embroidering. I love the look it

gives to my quilt. It blends well with

all the rest of my quilting made with

my Blue Heaven blendable 12wt

100% cotton Sulky thread. Another

thing I learned while making this

project was that the bobbins on the

creative icon are 30% larger! I kept

on wondering when I would run out

of thread but I was able to embroider

my three blocks without having to

make a new bobbin!

The first main block took no more

than 20 minutes to figure out and

embroider. The other 2 blocks, on

the left side, gave me a bit of a

workout as I decided to reduce

the size of the hearts and make

several more duplicates to cover

the complete area. And the good

news is that I was able to save both

block quilting designs: I simply had

to touch the heart on the bottom

left of my screen for the creative

icon to save the embroidery design.

I gave each a distinctive name so

that I can simply go into mysewnet

and touch the cloud to retrieve the

design should I want to use it again

on another block.

As this is my first quilt made using an

embroidery system, I have to say that

I’m really thrilled.

Embroidery stitch out on PFAFF creative icon

Finished baby quilt while vacationing at the cottage.

PFAF F creative icon stitch creator

lets you add oomph to a simple binding

I’ll show you how the Stitch Creator helped me create

a nice and quick binding. I only had two days to

spend quilting before the holidays and four quilts to

finish. So I decided to have at least one of the projects

completely bound by machine. I’ll now show you my

little tricks that make this binding look good!

Let’s start by stitching the binding onto the quilt.

Usually, we stitch the binding on the top of the quilt

so that we can hand finish onto the back of the quilt.

But since I’m machine stitching all, I start by stitching

the binding onto the back of the quilt and proceed to

stitch it the exact same way as I would on the top. But

just in case you’re unsure of what the “same way” is,

here’s the description:

Using the PFAFF creative icon to finish this quilt was such a treat!




issue 13 21

1. When stitching the binding onto the

back of the quilt, I ensure that I stitch

at a full ¼” as opposed to a scant. If

you’re too close to the edge, your

binding will not feel full when you

touch it. It’s really important that it

fits snuggly to the edge of your quilt

to prevent a premature wear of the

fabric. I also cut my strips to 2¼” and

fold in half to ensure that it fits nicely.

Stitch out to the corner of your quilt.

5. I then fold the unsewn tail of the

binding, aligning it with the 45

degree seam and edge of the next

side I’ll be stitching. You can finger

press on the fold to ensure that it lays

nice and flat. Fold the unsewn tail of

the binding back onto the edge of

the quilt and start stitching from the

edge. Repeat for all four corners.

Binding stitch is at a full ¼” seam allowance.

2. I leave a 6” tail hanging, it will be

useful to join the ends together.

Using the PFAFF creative icon to bind

my quilts makes this process fast and

easy as I can install my binding using

my regular ¼” foot and the integrated

Dual-Feed technology. I get precision

stitching. And since the creative icon

has increased needle piercing force, it

really goes through all the layers and I

get a nice seam!

As soon as the edge of the quilt aligns with the

red line on the front of the foot, I know it’s time

to stop.

3. For great corners: I stop sewing and

place my needle down when I reach

¼” from the edge of the quilt. Since I’m

using the ¼” foot on the creative icon,

I can easily spot that moment as we

have red lines on our foot that shows

the ¼” before and after the needle. So

as soon as the edge of the quilt aligns

with the red line on the front of the

foot, I know it’s time to stop.

4. I rotate the quilt so that I can sew

out of the quilt, stitching right

until the end of the corner. Having

the enhanced ergonomic design

electronic knee-lift allows me to raise

the presser foot while keeping my

hands on the project, enabling me to

rotate the quilt.

Fold on the seam.

Fold the tail of the binding to be sewn back onto

the edge of the quilt.

Start stitching on edge.

Lay the binding ends on the edge of the quilt and

fold the excess of the tail to be sewn back.

I use the excess binding that I just trimmed

off and align it open perpendicularly over the

folded portion.

6. Stop sewing about 12” from where

you began to stitch the binding.

Bring the tail of the binding yet to be

sewn over the start of the binding

and cut off excess (to be safe, I cut

passed the sewn portion). Lay the

binding ends on the edge of the quilt

and fold the excess of the unsewn tail

back. At this point, I use the excess

binding that I just trimmed off and

align it open perpendicularly over

the folded portion, at the edge of the

other binding (see photo). And I cut

off the excess.


22 .com| issue 13


I sew diagonally

So that’s how I usually sew a binding

onto a quilt.

Usually, I finish by hand on the other side

of the quilt. But for this project, I wanted

to make something different which

is why I stitched the binding onto the

back of the quilt. I actually folded the

binding onto the top of the quilt and

used a decorative stitch on top to finish

the binding. And I decided to create my

own decorative stitch cause the creative

icon lets me do it! Yes, I could have gone

much fancier as it has more than 800

stitches but I didn’t have much time.

So I picked a design and incorporated it

with the straight stitch and saved it on

mysewnet cloud.

Then the machine prompted me to

change the needle plate and foot! I

love it when the machine reminds me

before I go and break another needle!

So I changed the needle plate and foot

and removed the Integrated Dual Feed

and began sewing the binding onto the

quilt top. I simply had to fold my corners

and switch my stitch to straight to be

able to move in and out of the corners

easily. Because I had saved my stitch

on mysewnet cloud it was easy to go

back to my own stitch design once I had

made a corner. It really didn’t take long

for the binding to be finished.

Cut off the excess and press the seams open.

7. I then twist the tail of the binding

to be sewn towards the quilt while

ensuring that the right side of the

fabric faces up. I align the edge of the

beginning binding perpendicularly

(right sides together) and I sew

diagonally (the same way I sew my

strips of binding together). I double

check that the length of the binding

matches the length of the quilt and I

cut off the excess, pressing the seams

open. Once done, I stitch the binding

onto the edge of the quilt.

Then the machine prompted me to change the

needle plate and foot

I simply had to fold my corners and switch my

stitch to straight to be able to move in and out of

the corners easily.

My quilt was quilted and bound in a

day. That’s how quick and easy it is to

bind a quilt using the stitch creator.

This left me with another day of testing

out the wonderful embroideries of the

creative icon.

Stitch creator on the PFAFF creative icon

Binding of quilt with PFAFF creative icon




issue 13 23

Why I’m so excited about the PFAF F ImageStitch app

The PFAFF creative icon is your bestie when it’s time to quilt a project!

How the ImageStitch app works

Once in the app with photo downloaded, you get to choose

the type of embroidery you want. It can be scattered large or

small or a simple line bold or thin. You can also use the eraser

icon to remove the lines you do not wish to have. Once you’re

happy with the look, you can save it onto your sewnet cloud.

It will automatically download to your creative icon. I wanted

to have the quilted ‘look’ as opposed an embroidered one, so I

opted for LineArt bold and saved the design.

I turned on the creative icon to find my downloaded

embroidery design in mySewnet file! I simply touched the

name and it opened the design on the creative icon screen. I

was able to resize my design and position in the hoop where

I wanted it. I then realized I needed the embroidery facing the

other way as I had placed the quilt up-side down. Instead of

having to re-hoop the quilt, I simply clicked the ‘mirror’ image

and I was ready to start the embroidery.

In my June 2018 post, I showed you how to perfect the flying

geese block using the PFAFF creative icon while making a

modern throw using the wonderful Canvas collection from


In the last post of that week, I started quilting and showed you

how to use the Shape Creator. But I have to say that I found an

easier way to quilt this project! And I have the ImageStitch app

to thank for this: it’s the best app ever for quilters!

ImageStitch is a free app available for your smartphone or tablet

that lets you take a picture and transfer it into stitches for you to

embroider. You can save the design on your mySewnet cloud

and it will be synchronized to your mySewnet on your creative

icon. So I designed my flying geese outline on my personal

computer and printed it out. I then took a photo of it and went

onto the ImageStitch app and incorporated it in the app.

Introducing the best app ever: ImageStitch


24 .com| issue 13


ImageStitch on your Smartphone

Quilting Status on Sewnet app on your


My very own quilting design for flying geese

Once again, I preferred using Sulky rayon solid 40wt thread

in light silver to ensure that the thread wouldn’t break while

embroidering. I love how it looks on my quilt! I used a light

silver so that it would pop up in the red sections of the quilt. It

blended well with all the rest of my quilting made with 100%

cotton 40wt Sulky thread.

What was also great about this is that I could start the

embroidery onto my quilt and follow the progress on my cell

phone thanks to the SewNotice app. I was able to go and start

packing for the cottage and my cell phone would prompt me to

go back when the embroidery was finished. I just had to go back

to set the next position on the quilt and press start before getting

back to packing.

I truly enjoyed having the freedom to create my own quilt design

and being able to have the creative icon stitch it in place. This

has just opened up so many other new possibilities! I have so

many UFOs that are in the quilting stage waiting for the perfect

quilt design! Now I can sketch it and embroider it on the PFAFF

creative icon thanks to the ImageStitch app. It really is the best

app ever for quilters! Keep reading I'll show you another way to

quilt triangles on your projects using the PFAFF creative icon.

I truly enjoyed having the freedom to create my

own quilt design




issue 13 25

The best kept secret to

beautiful quilting designs

The PFAFF creative icon is my favorite quilting partner!

Use Freezer Paper to create your design shapes

Here’s another idea to help you

change your perspective on

quilting! I'm using the embroidery

arm of the PFAFF creative icon.

Here's my best kept secret to

beautiful quilting designs without

using the hoop.

Remember my Flying Geese quilt I

made using the Canvas collection

from Northcott? I showed you

how I got to quilt a row of flying

geese on the project. But I also

want to quilt a single flying

geese using the Sulky Cotton

Blendables12wt in Poppy color. I

decided to go old school for this

part of the project and thought

it would be a great way to show

you what I consider to be my best

kept secret.

I pulled out my freezer paper and

copied the shape of my flying

geese several times and cut them

out. I then positioned them onto

my quilt and ensured that I liked

the overall layout. Once I was sure

of their location, I used an iron

to set them onto my quilt. Once

they were in place I was able to

go onto the creative icon and

quilt around the freezer paper

to achieve the quilting design I


For this part I went back to the

single needle plate, ¼” foot and

Integrated dual-feed system. I

love the finished look and feel

with the sulky 12wt variegated

threads. And the freezer paper

is easy to remove once done: it

simply peels off.

If you have more complex

designs you’d like to quilt onto

your project, simply use Glad

Press & Seal instead of Freezer

paper. You can tear it off once

done and for any little piece stuck

underneath your stitch, simply

use your iron. It won’t melt onto

your project, it will just dry up and

you can dust it off. It’s that simple.

However, the PFAFF ImageStitch

is my go-to app now instead.

I hope you like my best kept

secret to beautiful quilting

designs. I was able to finish my

second quilt in half a day using

the great features of the PFAFF

creative icon.

Positioning your quilting designs on your quilt

Quilting around the edge of your design


26 .com| issue 13



The creative icon is really user-friendly

How the

PFAF F creative icon


me finish a UFO quilt

Auditioning Sulky Rayon threads on the project

Have you tried the PFAFF creative icon?

You need to do a test run at your nearest

dealer! It's amazing.

I had set two days aside before the

holidays to be able to quilt them. What

I didn’t expect was the fact that the

creative icon is really user-friendly and

I finished the quilts in less than two

days… which meant that I had time on

my hand to finish a UFO!

I have to say that I never thought this

day would come! I had made a rainbow

panel almost two years ago and had

no idea how to finish the project so I

set it aside in my UFOs. But I noticed

the cute butterfly embroidery outline

that’s included in the creative icon and

thought it will be perfect for that panel.

I pulled out all the beautiful Sulky Rayon

40 wt I had and auditioned them on

the project. I decided on the Variable

red to pink for this one. Usually, I go for a

neutral thread colors so that the quilting

doesn’t show too much, but I knew the

embroidery would come out perfect so I

didn’t hesitate to go bold.


28 .com| issue 13


It was easy to choose the design and

to position onto the project. Thanks to

the large screen on the creative icon

I was able to resize the pattern, rotate

and duplicate to create the layout of

my choice. I placed the project onto

the hoop and began the embroidery. It

was just wonderful to see the butterflies

come to life on my project!

Once the first overall layout was finished,

I noticed that I had big areas without

any quilting. It didn’t feel right to my

artistic eye. So I decided to cheat with

the creative icon. I would reposition

the design layout and stitch only one

butterfly in the location I wanted. You’re

able to tell the creative icon at what

stitch you want it to start. You can either

press a location on the screen, or input

the stitch number, the creative icon

will go to that location and begin

embroidering. Which is what I did!

And I would press stop when the

butterfly embroidery section was

completed to my satisfaction.

And that’s how the PFAFF creative

icon helped me finish another UFO

during my two-day quiltcation.

I still can’t believe I got so much

done in just two days. I went to the

cottage with all the quilts to bind

and truly enjoyed finishing them

by hand. I felt an immense sense

of accomplishment and came back

home recharged a ready to go

back to work during the day, and

to my studio every time I have a

few minutes I can call my own.

Embroidery stitch out screen enable me to input

the stitch number, the creative icon will go to

that location and begin embroidering.

I felt an immense sense of accomplishment when the binding was finished.

Thanks to the large screen, it was easy to choose

the design and to position onto the project.

Claire Haillot





issue 13 29

Exploring utility stitches on the



XE Christine Baker

The first set of stitches to show up on

the screen are the utility stitches. I can

use the slider on the left side of the

screen to scroll through all of the ones

that are available.

The Dreamweaver XE

This summer, on QUILTsocial, I showed

you how to turn a charm square pack into

nine patch blocks and snowball blocks. I’m

using the Dreamweaver XE from Brother

to finish these blocks into a modern

baby quilt.

Now we need to quilt it! I’m exploring

some of the different stitches that are

available on the Dreamweaver XE to

decide how the baby quilt will be

quilted. The first step is to select “Sewing”

from the home screen.

Scrolling through the stitches

Stitch 1-35 looks interesting! I’ll select

it first.

The quilt top

I was able to make a total of 42 blocks

from my charm pack – 21 nine-patch

and 21 snowball. I arranged them on my

design wall, alternating the two blocks

and sewed them together.


30 .com| issue 13


The home screen

Stitch 1-35

Photos by Christine Baker

The screen on the Dreamweaver XE now

shows what the stitch will look like and

indicates at the top of the screen that we

need to attach the “J” presser foot before

stitching out our sample.

This stitch was 60 seconds. Not too bad!

Now I’ll press the utility stitches – section

2 key to access the second grouping of

utility stitches.

Adjusting stitch length and width

It took 35 seconds to stitch a 10“ sample

of stitch 2-16, and only 26 seconds to

stitch a sample of 2-12. I wonder how

fast the Dreamweaver XE can sew the

serpentine stitch 2-17.

Utility stitches – section 2

Attach foot “J”

I showed you on QUILTsocial how to

easily change the presser foot on the

Dreamweaver XE. Now that we’ve

changed the foot we can try out

this stitch on one of the small quilt

sandwiches that I made using batting

and 2 layers of fabric. Here’s what Stitch

1-35 “Quilting Stippling” looks like in

fabric and thread.

I’m selecting stitch 2-16 and trying

stitching it out on my quilt sandwich.

Stitch 1-35 “Quilting Stippling”

Since I’ll be using one (or two) of these

stitches to quilt my baby quilt, I’m not

only testing out how they look when

stitched but also how long it takes to

stitch them! I don’t want to be spending

hours and hours quilting this small quilt,

so I set my iPad up beside the sewing

machine and using the timer to see how

long it takes to stitch out a 10“ sample.

Stitch 2-16

Depending on the stitch selected, you

may or may not be able to change

the width and/or length of the stitch.

If numbers show up on the screen as

shown, then you can use the “+” or :-”

buttons to adjust. If no numbers show in

this area, then the stitch can’t be adjusted.

The serpentine stitch “2-17”




issue 13 31

Here are the stitch-outs, and time taken

to stitch, for the four different utility

stitches. As you can see we’re getting

faster and faster and I quite like the way

the serpentine stitch looks! I think that

maybe one that I’ll use for quilting!

Now that I’ve picked a fairly simple utility

stitch to use on the baby quilt, I’ll check

out some of the more complex stitches

available on the Dreamweaver XE and

pick a second one to use as well.




for quilting

with decorative


I picked one of these stitches to use for

quilting my baby quilt, but I’d like to

use a more complex design as well. I’m

checking out the character decorative

stitches available on the machine.

After selecting “Sewing” on the main

screen, I press the Character Decorative

Stitch key on the LCD screen of the

Dreamweaver XE to access the many

decorative stitches available.

Dreamweaver XE

There are 7 different sections of

Character Decorative Stitches. I’m

selecting the Section 6 key to access the

first group of decorative stitches.

Section “6”

The Character Decorative Stitch key

As on the utility stitches screen, you can

scroll through the decorative stitches using

the slider on the right side of the screen.


32 .com| issue 13


Decorative stitch 6-065 looks amazing! I’ll

try stitching out that one.

Now I’ll try out Decorative stitch 6-113.

Scrolling through the stitches

As I was scrolling through the options,

I selected a few different stitches and

realized that instead of just replacing

the previous selection, the machine

was adding one repeat of each design

to the one before it. The possibilities

for combining stitch patterns on the

Dreamweaver XE are endless! I’ll explore

THAT another time!

Stitch 6-065

Here it is on my sample. It’s AWESOME but

it also took 60 seconds to stitch out only

two repeats which are just over 2” long.

That would take way too much time for

this quilt, but I’m definitely keeping it in

mind for a future project!

Stitch 6-113

That one’s amazing as well but took 80

seconds to stitch about 3”. Stitch 6-086,

shown below, took 50 seconds to stitch

the same length.

Combining stitches

To delete stitches I don’t want to use,

I just press the delete button at the

bottom of the screen.


Make sure to pay attention to the display

on the Dreamweaver XE when selecting

stitches. It shows you what size the final

stitching will be by indicating the % of

the actual size that is displayed. The last

group of stitches in section 6 are much

bigger than the other stitches that I used

and the machine is only displaying them

at 50% of actual size.

Deleting stitches

Stitch out of 6-065

Display size




issue 13 33

Stitch-outs for many decorative stitches

Here are some of the stitch-outs I did using stitches 6-166

through 6-178. As you can see they are much bigger than the

previous samples. They would be great for quilting an inner

border on a quilt as most of them are about 1” wide. But, they

do take a lot of time

to sew. The fastest

one – stitch 6-171

– took 75 seconds

to stitch a 6” long


So, I found a second

stitch that I’ll use on

the quilt – I’ll keep

it a secret and show

you. Now I need to

layer my quilt!

Layering the quilt

Here it is layered

with batting and backing. I used 505 Spray to keep the layers

together and a few safety pins around the outside edge for

added stability.

Machine quilting with a

serpentine stitch

When I’m machine quilting a small project

on my home machine I always try to

use my walking foot when possible. The

Dreamweaver XE has an amazing dual

feed foot that is even better than a regular

old walking foot for machine quilting! The

dual feed foot is plugged into the back

of the machine after securing it to the

presser foot holder.

Once the dual feed foot is plugged in,

you’ll notice that some of the utility and

decorative stitches are grayed out on the

display screen. This feature shows which

stitches can and can’t be used with the

dual feed foot.

You can see in the middle picture below

that since the serpentine stitch isn't

grayed out, it’s available to use with the

dual feed foot! That’s awesome, because

I’d like to use that foot as much as I can

for the machine quilting. Using a walking

foot or dual feed foot prevents the three

layers of the quilt from shifting while

you're quilting!

Before using the serpentine stitch, I’ll

quilt in-the-ditch between the blocks

using the dual feed foot.

The dual feed foot


34 .com| issue 13


Greyed out stitches

Quilting in the ditch

I've stitched all the vertical and horizontal

seams between the blocks. Here’s a close

up of the in-the-ditch quilting using the

Dreamweaver XE from Brother. I don’t usually

do a lot of in-the-ditch quilting because I

find it hard to keep the stitching right along

the seam, but this machine makes it easy!!

Now that my three layers are secured

together with the in-the-ditch quilting, I’ll

use the dual feed foot to quilt diagonally

through all of the nine-patch blocks. Here’s a

little video showing the steps I followed.

Close up of in-the-ditch quilting

Decorative stitches

plus laser pointer

= beautiful machine quilting

Greyed out stitches

I still have the dual feed foot attached to

the machine and the grayed out stitches

on the screen show that all of the

stitches in this section can’t be used with

this presser foot. Since I want to use the

cute little kite stitch – 6-078 – I will have

to attach a different presser foot.

Foot “N”

Once I unplug the dual feed foot, the

display screen on the Dreamweaver XE

shows that the correct presser foot for

the selected stitch is foot “N”.

Changing the foot

So, I remove the dual feed foot and

attach foot “N” to the machine.




issue 13 35

Since I’ve already done a lot of machine quilting on the quilt

using the dual feed foot, I don’t need to worry too much about

the layers shifting as I quilt using the “N” foot.

I select the kite stitch, activate the laser pointer and get ready to


Here’s a video that I made showing the steps to follow.

Close-up of the kite stitch

The machine quilting is finished.

Here’s a close-up of the kite stitch used to machine quilt across

the diagonal of each of the snowball blocks. I think it looks SO


Here it is – the machine quilting is finished. The Dreamweaver

XE made this so easy to quilt!

10 simple steps for binding with perfect corners

I’m trimming the

quilt and I’ll show

you 10 simple steps

for binding with

perfect corners.

The first thing I do is

trim the edges of the

baby quilt using a

rotary cutter and ruler.

It’s always a good

idea to label quilts,

but I have to admit,

it’s my least favorite

part of quilting!! This

is the solution I’ve

come up with.


I ordered

embroidered ribbon

labels from It’s Mine

Labels and I pin one of

them to the back of

the quilt in one of the

corners. I make sure

that the raw ends of

the ribbon almost

reach the raw edge

of the quilt. Once the

Add ribbon label

binding is sewn on,

the label is secured and there’s no hand stitching required!

Now that I have this Dreamweaver XE embroidery machine, one

of these days I’ll try embroidering my own ribbon labels!

I’ve made my binding using a grey Colorworks Solid from

Northcott following the same technique I’ve shown in previous

QUILTsocial posts.


36 .com| issue 13


Now I’ll select the “quilting stitches” key

on the LCD screen.

Step 2

Flip the binding to the right of the corner,

so that the raw edge of the binding

makes a continuous line with the raw

edge of the second side of the quilt.

Step 5

Once the binding is sewn to all four sides

of the quilt, go to one corner and fold

one side of the binding over to the front

of the quilt.

Select “quilting stitches”

The screen shows that I need to attach

the “J” presser foot.

Flip to the right

Step 3

Fold the binding over so that the fold is

lined up with the first side of the quilt

and the raw edge of the binding is laying

along the raw edge of the second side of

the quilt.

Fold one side over

Step 6

Fold the second side of the binding to

the front and pin both sides in place,

making sure that the edges meet in

the corner.

Install the “J” foot

Step 1

Start by sewing the binding to the raw

edge of the first side of the quilt and

stop ¼” from the end. Back-stitch to sew

reinforcement stitches before cutting

the thread.

Fold to the left

Step 4

Starting right at the folded end of the

binding, back-stitch at the edge of the

quilt and then sew along the raw edge

of the binding using a ¼” seam until you

get to the second corner of the quilt.

Repeat Steps 1-4.

Fold the second side

¼” from the end

Stitch from the outer corner




issue 13 37

Step 7

Select a decorative stitch on the

Dreamweaver XE. If necessary, adjust the

width and length of the stitch. I’m using

Utility stitch 3-16 which looks a lot like a

hand stitched cross-stitch.

Step 10

Use the needle down feature on the

Dreamweaver XE to drop the needle

where the two corners of the binding

meet and then pivot to stitch the

next side.


Step 9

Keep sewing along the binding,

allowing the decorative stitch to stitch

the edge of the binding down. When

you get to the corner, use an awl to

hold down the corner of the folded

binding to make sure that it doesn’t

move before it gets stitched.

Pivot at the corner

Here's my binding, sewn down with

stitch 3-16 on the Dreamweaver XE.

And here’s my finished baby quilt,

pieced and machine quilted with the

Dreamweaver XE from Brother.

Adjust width

Step 8

Working from the front of the quilt,

line up the edge of the binding

under the presser foot, then press

the “Reinforcement Stitch” button to

start sewing.

Use an awl

The finished binding

I really love how my baby quilt turned

out and I’m really happy that I was

finally able to use one of the charm

packs that my friend Nellie brought me

when she returned from Quiltweek in

Lancaster last year!

The Brother Dreamweaver XE made

piecing and quilting this quilt a

delight! I can’t wait to discover more of

its great features while working on my

next project!

Christine Baker


38 | issue 13

Your Favorite

Thread Brand

With over 350 colors, Coats Dual Duty XP ® has

exceptional performance and durability for

hand and machine sewing on all fabrics.

Coats & Clark, Greer, SC 29650


17-011 © 2017 Coats & Clark. All rights reserved. Coats & Clark is a registered trademark.


THE Dream Machine 2

THE Dream Machine 2

Rayon threads

Sulky Ultra Solvy stabilizer


40 .com| issue 13


8 essential tips

for embroidering free

standing lace

I’m using the embroidery features on

THE Dream Machine 2 from Brother to

share these awesome tips on how to

make bookmarks using free standing

lace (FSL).

I have to be honest with you, up until last

month I’d never even heard of FSL, but

one day I stumbled upon a FSL design

while researching embroidery designs

online and I was intrigued.

I downloaded these super cute

FSL bookmark designs and tried to

embroider one, but it went HORRIBLY

wrong!! My stabilizer ripped, my threads

broke, and I figured that I might need

some professional help!

So I emailed Brother educator Lynn

Swanson and asked if she had any tips

for doing free standing lace embroidery.

She obviously knows what she’s talking

about because my next attempt was

very successful, so I asked if I could share

her great tips with you here!


Choose a design that says it is either

for “free standing lace” or “FSL”. When

you’re looking online, the design will

say that it’s appropriate for FSL. Regular

embroidery designs are made so that

the fabric keeps the design together. No

fabric and the threads will just unravel.

FSL designs are stitched in a way that the

thread keeps the design together.

TIP 2 use the correct thread

Make sure to use the thread type the

design calls for – if it calls for cotton

thread make sure to use cotton and

not rayon. Lynn says that she has used

30 weight and also up to 50 weight

depending on what the pattern calls for

– but don’t substitute rayon if the pattern

suggests cotton. She’s also used rayon

thread and some metallic thread if the

pattern calls for it.

75/11 sharp needles

Hoop very tightly

The base stitching

TIP 3 stabilizer

Lynn says that she’d had the best

results usings heavy duty watersoluble

stabilizer. She likes Sulky

Ultra Solvy but has also used

Brother water soluble stabilizer.

TIP 4 needles

Lynn likes to use a 75/11 sharp

or ultra sharp needle. You want

to have a narrow (thin) needle

because when the needle

perforates the stabilizer so you

want as small a hole as possible.

TIP 5 hooping

Make sure you hoop the

stabilizer tightly, tighter than if

you were stabilizing fabric.

The base stitching for the free

standing lace embroidery

is what keeps it all together

when the stabilizer is removed.

As you can see THE Dream

Machine 2, first stitches the

whole background (green) in a

criss-cross pattern and then the

design is stitched on top.

With the addition of more

thread colors, the design is

coming to life!

Below is the original bookmark,

and a second one that was

increased in size before stitching.

TIP 6 trimming

Trim away the excess stabilizer

around the bookmarks as close

a possible without clipping any

of the threads.

TIP 7 soak in warm water

Fill a bowl with warm water

and lay the design in it. It

sure doesn’t take long for the

stabilizer to dissolve away!

TIP 8 drying

Once the stabilizer is dissolved

remove the design and lay it on a

thick towel to dry.

Now that my bookmarks are dry,

they can be used to keep my

spot in my next great read! And

wouldn’t these be cute presents?

There are FSL designs available

for ornaments and houses,

doilies and more! Just type

in “FSL” on your favorite

embroidery design website to

see what’s available.

Christine Baker


Adding more layers of stitching

The free standing lace bookmarks

Trim away excess stabilizer

Soaking in the hot water

Drying on a towel

The finished bookmark


don't miss these

projects & tutorials online!




How to make an

embroidered mug rug

using mySewnet news-feed




Making a reversible table

runner using Banyan Batiks

Rock City


and there's so much more!

Mini quilt with buttons

becomes very adorable







Kelly’s Creative Sewing

Machines and More...



804 Main Street

Dartmouth, Nova Scotia B2W 3V1


Specialize in Sewing, Embroidery machines,

Sergers and Long arm Quilting Systems



480 Parkland Dr,

Halifax, NS B3S 1P9, Canada

Your Authorized Dealer for:

Perfection starts here.

Ottawa Valley Authorized Dealer

Sewing, Knitting & Having a Good Time

Arnprior Shopping Centre

375 Daniel St S, Arnprior, ON K7S 3K6





44 .com| issue 13


QUILTsocial bloggers

in this issue

Claire Haillot


Married with three young boys,

Claire Haillot shares her passion

for quilting among her neighbors

in the United States and

Canada as well as her cousins in

France. Claire has been active

in the quilting industry since

2004. In 2006, she started her

own line of patterns and later

began publishing patterns and

articles in Canadian, European

and American magazines. She

collaborated with PlumEasy

patterns to launch the Dancing

Diamonds. Claire has also won

a few awards for her work. Most

recently her quilt Remembering

Sotchi won Best of Show in

special exhibit A Celebration of

Color at the International Quilt

Festival in Chicago April 2018.

Christine Baker


Christine has been designing and

publishing quilt patterns for the

last 10 years under the business

name Fairfield Road Designs.

Her patterns range from fusible

applique and piecing to felted wool

applique and punchneedle. You can

see all her patterns on her website.

Sarah Vanderburgh


Sarah loves to play with color and

quilts are her playground! A selftaught

quilter, She's been designing

her own quilts for almost 20 years.

She's inspired by happy fabrics,

selvages, traditional blocks and

nature. She's also a wife, mother,

and elementary school teacher, and

enjoy drinking coffee on my front

porch in northern Ontario.

Jean Boyd


Jean has been designing and

publishing patterns since 1997. Her

work has been published in several

magazines across North America.

Jean holds a Fiber Arts Certificate in

quilting and has taught extensively

throughout Canada, including six

national Quilt Canada conferences.

She was named "Canadian Teacher

of the Year" in 2003 by the Canadian

Quilters Association and has won

numerous awards for her quilts.


BUSINESS DIRECTORY To list your business in this space please call 1.866.969.2678.

Brenda Franklin Designs

7570 Mapleton SR 18 RR 1, Alma, ON N0B 1A0

519.638.9958 bfdesigns.on.ca


More than 500 charts available for counted

needlework, latch hook rugs, beadwork, beaded

knits and knitting patterns. Mail/fax order or ask

for our products at your local shop. Contact us for

custom designs or needle felted sculpture.

Brampton Sew & Serge

289 Rutherford Rd S, Unit 7, Brampton, ON L6W 3R9

905.874.1564 sewnserge.com


Welcome to Your One Stop Sewing Centre! We are

authorized dealers of Baby Lock, Husqvarna Viking,

and Singer sewing machines and sergers. We also

offer a full schedule of sewing classes for everyone.

Bytowne Threads - Ottawa, ON

1.888.831.4095 bytownethreads.com


Featuring Aurifil thread from Italy. Long staple

Egyptian cotton threads - 270 colours in 12, 28, 40

and 50 wt; 88 colours in 80 wt. Polyester Aurilux -

240 high sheen colours. Wool threads - 192 colours.

Many kits available. Check our website!

Canadian National Fabric - Brampton, ON



We are an online fabric shoppe offering a wide

variety of fabrics, patterns, books and notions for all

your sewing needs. Flat rate Canada wide shipping

of $5. Shop in person available by appointment!

Country Concessions

1 Dufferin St, Cookstown, ON L0L 1L0

705.458.4546 or toll-free 1.888.834.4407



Visit our lovely and unique quilt shop in the quaint

village of Cookstown. We have over 7000 bolts of

cotton fabrics plus a wide selection of patterns, books

& notions. You will be so glad you came for a visit.


271 Lakeshore Rd E, Mississauga, ON L5G 1G8

905.274.7198 gittas.com


Gitta's, named after owner Gitta Al-Basi, nestled in

the east village of Port Credit, is the place where

stitchers meet with their stitching friends, shop for

stitching supplies and see the new stitching designs

from Europe and the United States.

Hardanger House, designs by Betty Stokoe

PO Box 1223, Stettler, AB T0C 2L0

403.742.2749 bettystokoe@gmail.com


Hardanger embroidery charts and kits. Designs

feature contemporary adaptations of this traditional

cutwork embroidery from Norway. Shop online

at etsy.com/shop/HardangerHouse. Some digital

downloads available.

Haus of Stitches

626 Main Street, Humboldt, SK S0K 2A0

306.682.0772 or toll-free 1.800.344.6024


Our one of a kind store offers everything you need

for sewing, quilting, knitting, rug hooking and

needlework. Authorized dealers for Janome and Elna.

Heartfelt Fibre Arts

42 Industrial St, Toronto, ON M4G 1Y9

647.920.3616 heartfeltfibrearts.com


Canadian Fibre Arts supply store specializing in

high-quality, unique fibre and tools for all of your

knitting, felting, rug hooking and stitching needs.

Impressions Embroidery & Engraving

#8-449 Mayor Magrath Dr S, Lethbridge, AB T1J 3L8

403.942.3934 impressionslethbridge.ca


Our shop does embroidery and laser engraving.

Laser engraving is a beautiful process for fabric,

as nothing cuts cleaner and more precisely than a

laser. We now carry a nice array of fabric as well to

compliment the abilities of the laser.

Kelly's Creative Sewing

804 Main St, Dartmouth, NS B2W 3V1

902.435.7380 kellyscreativesewing.ca


We offer sales and on-site service of high-end

domestic embroidery, sewing machines and sergers,

as well as a variety of educational programs.

Needles & Knits

15040 Yonge St, Aurora, ON L4G 1M4

905.713.2066 needlesandknits.com

Fabulous selection of yarns. Extremely

knowledgable and expert help. Cozy and friendly

atmosphere. Classes. Guild night every first Tuesday

of the month. Tea with Tove, the owner, every

Thursday from 6-8pm.

Needleworker's Delight / Silkweaver Fabrics

Plaza K 181 Route 1 South, Metuchen, NJ 08840

732-388-4545 needleworkersdelight.com


Standard & specialty Zweigart Fabrics & canvas,

hand-dyed fabrics, floss, fibers, towels, tableware,

leaflets/designs, painted canvases, notions, tools,

baby items, home decor, and so much more!

Pine Ridge Knit & Sew

17477 Hwy 2 PO Box 68, Trenton, ON K8V 5R1

613.392.1422 pineridgeknitsew.com


We have knitting machines by Artisan and Silver

Reed, embroidery machines by Husqvarna/Viking

& White. Sewing notions and supplies, books and

software. Hands-on lessons and classes. Wide variety

of yarns, threads, dress and pant zippers.

Serenity Knits

525 Brooker Ridge #102, Newmarket, ON L3X 2M2

905.710.3283 serenityknits.ca


We offer a wide selection of high quality yarns as well

as needles, hooks, patterns and notions. We also offer

a large variety of classes from beginner to the more


Sew Fancy Inc.

Guelph, ON

519.824.4127 sewfancy.com


Your Premier Canadian Source for Specialty Sewing

Supplies including Smocking, Heirloom Sewing,

Goldwork, Silk Ribbon Embroidery, Needle Tatting,

Swarovski Crystals, Sashiko, Quilting and more. Visit

the website for the latest in sewing supplies.

Sew Inspired

375 Daniel St S, Arnprior, ON K7S 3K6

613.623.0500 sewinspired.ca


Your Ottawa Valley PFAFF® Authorized Dealer. We

have a large supply of quilting & sewing supplies,

knitting supplies, as well as in stock PFAFF® sewing

machines. We also have a listing of sewing and

quilting classes.

Sew With Vision

480 Parkland Dr, Halifax, NS B3S 1P9

902.479.2227 sewwithvision.net


dealer and service provider offering an extensive line

of sewing, embroidery and serger machines, as well

as long-arm quilting systems.

That Sewing Place

16610 Bayview Ave #10, Newmarket, ON L3X 1X3

905.715.7725 thatsewingplace.ca


Introducing That Sewing Place as your sewing

source and Authorized Dealers for Bernina and

Brother machines. Jaret & Liana focus on placing

your sewing needs first, providing outstanding

support, service, and training.

The Quilt Store / Evelyn's Sewing Centre

17817 Leslie St, Unit 40, Newmarket, ON L3Y 8C6

905.853.7001 or toll-free 1.888.853.7001

The Quilt Store West

695 Plains Rd E, Unit 6, Burlington, ON L7T 2E8

905.631.0894 or toll-free 1.877.367.7070


Now with 2 locations to serve you, we are your Quilt

Store Destination! The staff here at The Quilt Store

is always on hand to provide Quilt Wisdom, Quilt

Inspiration and most of all we pride ourselves as the

place to make... All Your Quilt Dreams Come True!

The Stitcher's Muse

99 Commercial Street, Nanaimo, BC V9R 5G3

250.591.6873 thestitchersmuse.com


A divine little shop with supplies for all your hand

stitching needs! Friendly, knowledgeable, helpful

staff. Cross stitch, canvaswork, needlepoint,

embroidery, counted thread, lace making and

more. Books, patterns, fabric, threads, tools.

The Yarn Guy

15 Gower St, Toronto, ON M4B 1E3

416.752.1828 or toll-free 1.800.836.6536

theyarnguy.com info@sewknit.ca

See us on Facebook, follow us on Twitter!

Knitting machines, sewing machines, repairs, parts

for Passap, Studio, Singer, Silver Reed, Superba,

White. Sewing notions and supplies, books, ball

yarns, coned yarns, TAMM yarns, Paton's yarns,

Bernat yarns, Phentex yarns, Bernat kits & crafts.

Ultimate Sewing Centre

191 Bloor St East, Oshawa, ON L1H 3M3

905.436.9193 ultimatesewing.com


For all your sewing needs be sure to call Durham’s

largest one stop shop: Janome and Elna Sewing

Machines, Sergers, & Embroidery machines,

over 3000 bolts of first quality cottons, Floriani

Embroidery supplies, the latest notions, books, &

patterns, year round classes, and so much more!

Upper Canada Quiltworks

PO Box 64, Brockville, ON K6V 5T7

613.345.3956 Fax: 613.342.3327


Visit us online for a wide selection quilt patterns

and books. Techniques include felted wool, fusible

appliqué, punchneedle, rag quilting and printing

photos on fabric.


46 .com| issue 13


The new star of

the quilting world

Featuring brilliant StitchVision technology that lets you take your quilts to the next level.

192 Disney embroidery

designs built right in

Projects guidelines and

grids for sewing precise lines,

angles, corners and more

Extra large 10 5/8” x 16”

hoop with comfortable

spring lever release

65 square inch workspace

and a 13.1” needle-to-arm


Visit your Brother authorized dealer, or go to brother.ca to discover more.


Photos are for illustration purposes only. Brother and its logo are trademarks of Brother Industries, Ltd., Japan. All specifications are subject to change without notice. All registered trademarks referenced herein are the property of their respective companies.

©2018 Brother International Corporation (Canada) Ltd. 1, rue Hôtel de Ville, Dollard-des-Ormeaux, Québec, H9B 3H6. 12/2018 - 2018_398


Get more quilting fun in




A Needle Pulling Thread


2018 Issue 47


The Beauty of


Surface Honeycomb Stitch








Thoughtful Soles

Wiggle Room socks

Volume 13 Issue 2

Artist Reviews


Lise Belanger

Claire Haillot



& Be


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