QUILTsocial Issue 14

anptmag

While exploring and playing with the Brother Luminaire XP1 and the Husqvarna Viking Designer EPIC sewing machines, we're after what is original in quilting ideas. In this issue we show you how to piece fabric using decorative stitches instead of the typical quarter inch seam. We use traditional quilt blocks to make a modern quilt, show you how to use the flip and stitch technique of quilt making, the golden 5 steps to add a flange to a binding to give the quilt edge some pop of color. Many free patterns and inspiring new quilting ideas!sew

Q

eat,

essential tips!

ISSUE

14

* piecing using decorative stitches

* how to quilt words

* 5 steps for adding a flange in the

binding

* making a modern quilt design

using traditional quilt blocks

* flip & stitch quilting technique

* exploring the capabilities of

Brother Luminaire XP1

Husqvarna Designer EPIC

Visit QUILTsocial.com to download

a PDF version of this issue.

UILTsocial

sleep, quilt, repeat!

QUILTsocial | issue 14


Elegant

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Attention to detail and

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• PFAFF ® Colour Touch Screen

• 201 Stitches

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• PFAFF ® Colour Touch Screen

• Exclusive PFAFF ® Stitch Techniques

• Exclusive Stitch Creator Feature

• Large 250mm sewing space

• Straight Stitch Plate and Sensor

PFAFF, PERFECTION STARTS HERE, QUILT AMBITION, QUILT EXPRESSION, IDT and STITCH CREATOR

are trademarks of KSIN Luxenbourg II, S.a.r.l. ©2019 KSIN Luxenbourg II, S.a.r.l. All rights reserved.

www.pfaff.com/en-CA

QUILTsocial | issue 14


editor's letter

There are several things to take away after reading

this issue, one of which is exploring the new Brother

Luminaire and the Husqvarna Viking Designer EPIC.

So much easy sewing and quilting is made possible

using their numerous features.

Knowing all of your sewing machine's capabilities is

helpful in your creative aspirations. I remember buying

my first sewing machine and being surprised when

the dealer signed me up for a class that would teach

me how to use it. I have to say I was very surprised.

Well, isn't it obvious? It was obvious to me how to

sew by machine, after all, I had been sewing on my

mom's since I was twelve. But after many years, there

were new features on sewing machines. You know

how much sewing machines have changed over the

years, not only in terms of added features and built-in

stitches, but now technology is already upon them

in a stunning way to make your sewing and quilting

experience a jaw dropping joy. The thing is, to some,

it may seem as though sewing machines are more

complex, but that's not so. They have more features

and are able to do more for you than ever before.

Remember when smartphones first came to market?

Same, here are machines that can make your creative

ideas soar! Check out a few quilt stores, ask that they

show you their machines, they'll be happy to sit with

you; and for Pete's sake, do take the class on how to

use your newly purchased machine!

The other take away from this issue, are three key

tutorials: adding a flange to a binding as an accent

for your quilt, how to quilt words, and how to sew

seams using decorative stitches. These techniques

are different, not often used, but if you give them a try,

you'll have experienced something new to you.

Enjoy your quilting hours!

Cheerfully,

follow me on

QUILTsocial | issue 14

3


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QUILTsocial

.com

eat, sleep, quilt, repeat

PUBLISHER, EDITOR-IN-CHIEF, ART DIRECTOR

Carla A. Canonico

carla@QUILTsocial.com

PUBLISHER, ADVERTISING SALES

John De Fusco

john@QUILTsocial.com

PHOTOGRAPHERS

John De Fusco, Carla A. Canonico

BLOGGERS/CONTRIBUTORS

Christine Baker

fairfieldroaddesigns.com

Julie Plotniko

juliesquiltclass.blogspot.com

Elaine Theriault

crazyquilteronabike.blogspot.ca

Jean Boyd

patternsbyjeanboyd.com


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Elaine’s Quilting Tech Tips!

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Carla A. Canonico

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Sondra Armas

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WHERE TO GET YOUR COPY

QUILTsocial is a quarterly eMagazine published by A Needle

Pulling Thread. It is available free for personal use online at

https://QUILTsocial.com.

A limited number of printed copies of QUILTsocial are available

for purchase at select quilt shops and specialty stores. Ask for it

at your local shop. QUILTsocial is not available by subscription.

QUILT SHOPS

If you are interested in carrying QUILTsocial in your store, please

email john@QUILTsocial.com.

EDITORIAL

Designers and other contributors who would like to be

considered for future issues please email carla@QUILTsocial.com

with a brief description of your work and your proposed project

for the magazine.

©2019 QUILTsocial. All rights reserved. Issue 14 ISSN 2368-5913.

No part of this publication may be reproduced without written

permission from the publisher.

All designs, patterns, and information in this magazine are for

private, non-commercial use only, and are copyrighted material

owned by their respective creators or owners.

Advertiser Index

60 A Needle Pulling Thread Magazine

23 Banyan Batiks

59 Brother

58 Business Directory

55 Coats

56 eQuilter.com

31 Gütermann Creativ

53 Husqvarna Viking

56 Melissa Marginet

02 PFAFF

04 QUILTsocial.com

4 QUILTsocial | issue 14


QUILTsocial

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Wall quilt tutorial: decorative stitches and curved piecing, let’s do it!

Sewing seams using decorative stitches?

Preparing applique shapes for machine applique

Machine applique the Brother Luminaire way

Quilting options on the Brother Luminaire sewing and embroidery machine

Making a modern quilt design using traditional quilt blocks

Finishing the Banyan Batiks Tie One On table runner

Quilt pattern ideas for using leftover fabric, Banyan Batiks Tie One On

Making a quilted table runner out of a placemat pattern

Flip & stitch to make a marvelous mug rug

Say it with free motion quilting, a designer cushion

Mark, layer, baste, easy preparation for machine quilting

Quilting words – so much to say using Gütermann Dekor thread!

Making quilted words pop, it’s all about the thread

A gourmet finish for a quilted designer cushion

5 steps for adding a pop of color with a flange in the binding

6 steps to add lettering to your quilt sashings

6 steps: adding lettering to quilt sashings using machine embroidery

User’s Guide, Quick Help, JoyOS Advisor: sewing help at your fingertips

6 steps to creating an embroidered quilt label using the Designer EPIC

QUILTsocial | issue 14

5


Wall quilt tutorial: decorative stitches and curved

piecing, let’s do it!

In this feature, I'm doing some fusible applique to create

a leaf design wall quilt using a few more of the many

decorative stitches available on this machine.

I used some scraps of Banyan Batiks by Northcott that I

had left over from previous QUILTsocial posts for my

leaves. I like batiks because I’ll do raw-edge applique

and the edges won’t fray. I used 5 different blacks for the

background (using up scraps again!) but you could use all

the same fabric if you wish.

Brother Luminaire Innov-ís XP1 machine and fabric for the Leaf wall quilt

Just recently, I introduced you to the new Brother Luminaire

sewing and embroidery machine and showed you how to

use decorative stitching, along with the projector feature,

to make a table runner and some placemats. You can find

all the instructions in my post, StitchVision on the Luminaire

for visible decorative stitch placement.

Here’s what you need to get started

• 5 strips cut 1½” – 3” wide and 8” – 10” long (you’ll be cutting

more strips later)

• ¾ yd [0.7m] for sashing, border and binding

• 2⁄3 yd [0.6m] black for backgrounds or a variety of black

scraps

• 1 piece of template plastic, 8½” x 11”

• 3 pieces of light-weight fusible web, 8½” x 11”

cutting instructions

• Lay 5 or 6 strips of varying widths on the cutting table.

• Using a rotary cutter, cut a gentle, curvy line on one side

of the 2nd strip.

Table runner with decorative stitching done using the StitchVision on the Brother

Luminaire machine.

Strips cut 1½” – 3'' wide

6 QUILTsocial | issue 14

Photos by Jean Boyd


Cut a gentle curvy line on one side of the second strip.

‘Almost empty’ screen on the Brother Luminaire

Now comes the fun part! Sew the strips together using

decorative stitches.

With the Brother Luminaire sewing and embroidery

machine you have hundreds of stitches from which to

choose. It’s hard to pick just a few favorites! Here’s a great

video about decorative stitches on the Brother Luminaire

machine that you might like to look at before you

actually start sewing.

It’s a good idea to do a few practice rows of stitching

before working on your strips. I tried out a few stitches,

adjusting both width and length, to see what I liked. It’s

also a good idea to mark down the settings you used

when you find a stitch that you really like. I like using the

“start/stop” button on the front of the machine instead

of the foot pedal, along with a slow stitching speed, for

better control while sewing. I used a variegated thread

to give more interest to the finished pieces.

Nobody likes to run out of bobbin thread partway

through a seam, and it’s even worse if it runs out while

doing decorative stitching! Fortunately, there’s a warning

screen that comes up on the Brother Luminaire with a

little sad faced emoji. In fact, the machine stops sewing

when this screen comes up. If you just have a few more

stitches to sew, you can do that and then the warning

sign comes up again. No excuses now for sewing a

whole seam with no thread in the bobbin!

Strip set sewn together with decorative stitching using the Brother

Luminaire sewing and embroidery machine

QUILTsocial | issue 14

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Sewing seams using

decorative stitches?

Overlap the curved strip by about 1½” on the first strip.

Have you had the chance to cut your fabric strips?

Let's start sewing!

• Use the 5 strips that you cut out yesterday and lay

them on your cutting table.

• You’ve already cut a gentle, curvy line on one side of

the 2nd strip.

• Place the curved strip on top of the first strip,

overlapping by about ½”.

• Sew a row of decorative stitches along the curved

edge.

• After you’ve finished sewing the first row of decorative

stitching, turn the piece over and cut away the excess

fabric from the back.

• Keep adding strips in the same way until you have a

piece that is 10” – 12” wide.

• Make 2 or 3 fabric strip sets like this, using different

color arrangements, to create different strip sets.

Sew a line of decorative stitching along the curved edge to join the 2

strips together.

The first 2 strips are joined together with a decorative stitch.

8 QUILTsocial | issue 14


I really like the way the tension is automatically set for

every stitch and each one I tried turned out perfectly.

Another accessory that I’ve come to love is the bobbin clip.

Placing bobbin clips on bobbins helps prevent the thread

from unwinding from the bobbin. You can also clip the

bobbins together for easy storage.

Keep reading to see how to use your decoratively stitched

fabric to make the applique shapes for the leaf wall quilt.

I’m sure you’ll really enjoy using the many decorative

stitches on the Brother Luminaire sewing and embroidery

machine!

Finished strip set embellished with decorative stitching

Bobbin clips. A great way to keep your bobbins organized

and untangled!

Trim away excess fabric from the back.

QUILTsocial | issue 14

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Preparing applique shapes for machine applique

There are so many decorative stitches to

choose from on the Brother Luminaire,

you could spend hours playing with

them!

Now it’s time to cut the background

pieces for the applique shapes. I like to

cut the backgrounds a little bigger than

required and then trim them to size after

the shapes have been appliqued.

Cut the following from black

background fabric

2 – 10” x 8”

2 – 11” x 9”

1 – 12” x 10”

1 – 12” x 11”

Templates for the applique shapes

• Click on the leaf applique shapes.

• Print the shapes on a piece of paper.

• Cut out the paper shapes leaving

about 1⁄8” around the outside edges.

• Lightly glue the paper shapes to a

sheet of template plastic.

Glue paper shapes to template plastic.

• Cut out the template plastic on the

printed lines.

• Cut along the center line on each

shape to make 2 templates for each

leaf.

• Number the plastic templates.

Cut each leaf shape template into 2 pieces.

• Following the manufacturer’s

instructions, press a piece of fusible

web to the back of each fabric strip

set.

• Trace 2 of each leaf shape on the

fusible web. You can reverse some

shapes for more variety if you wish.

• Place the shapes on an angle for a

more interesting design.

• Cut out each shape on the drawn

lines.

• Carefully remove the paper backing

from the fusible web, one shape at a

time, as you need it. I like to use a pin

or needle to score the paper backing,

making it easier to remove.

• A thin layer of fusible web will remain

on the fabric.

• Place the leaf shapes as desired on

the background fabrics. I left a little

of the background fabric showing so

it looked like a leaf vein. You can mix

and match shapes from different strip

sets for added variety.

• When you’re satisfied with the

placement of the shapes, fuse them

in place, following the manufacturer’s

directions.

Trace around the templates on the fusible web.

Fuse a piece of fusible web to the back of the strip set.

10 QUILTsocial | issue 14

Cut out the leaf shapes and fuse them to the

background fabric.


medium leaf

small leaf

large leaf

QUILTsocial | issue 14

11


Machine applique the Brother Luminaire way

Now you get to use more decorative

stitches on the Brother Luminaire sewing

and embroidery machine. I decided

to use a blanket stitch – there are 2

to choose from – but you could also

experiment with other stitches to finish

the edges of the applique shapes.

I was so anxious to get started sewing

on the Brother Luminaire again, I used

the N foot instead of the J foot (as

recommended on the screen right in

front of me!), but it worked perfectly

anyway. When I noticed on the screen

that I should have used the J foot, that

made it even better because the foot has

a clear plastic section at the front so you

can see where to stitch more easily. After

choosing the stitch, I didn’t have to make

any adjustments. I love the automatic

thread tension feature on this machine!

Because I was using a large cone of

thread, I took advantage of the fold-able

2-thread spool stand that magnetically

attaches to the top cover. Have a look at

this video about the Luminaire XP1 Thread

Rack that really shows the advantages of

this feature and how it works.

I also used the securing stitch feature

at the beginning and end of each leaf

shape and sewed with a slow speed for

greater control of the fabric.

Preparing blocks, sashing and border

Now that the leaves are all appliqued, it’s

time to trim the blocks and sew on the

sashing and border.

Trim the blocks to the following sizes

• 1 large leaf: 9½” x 10½”

• 1 large leaf: 8½” x 10½”

• 2 small leaves: 6½” x 8½”

• 2 medium leaves: 7½” x 9½”

Cutting instructions for border

• 2 – 3½” x 24½”

• 2 – 3½” x 26½”

Cutting instructions for sashing

• 2 – 2” x 9½”

• 2 – 1½” x 9½”

• 2 – 1½” x 6½”

• 1 – 1½” x 16½”

• 1 – 1½” x 15½”

Front panel on the Brother Luminaire sewing and embroidery machine

The blanket stitch on the LCD screen on the Brother Luminaire sewing and

embroidery machine.

The top for the Leaf wall quilt is finished!

12 QUILTsocial | issue 14


Fold-able 2-thread spool stand attaches with

magnets to the top of the Brother Luminaire

Putting it all together

I used the ¼” foot that comes with the

Brother Luminaire Innov-ís XP1 to sew the

blocks and sashing together. There’s also

a ¼” guideline on the needle plate so

you really can’t go wrong in finding the

perfect ¼” seam!

• Follow the diagram below to sew the

top row together. Press seams toward

sashing.

• Follow the diagram below to sew the

bottom row together.

• Sew the top and bottom rows

together.

• Sew on the 3½” x 26½” side borders.

Press seams toward borders.

• Sew on the 3½” x 24½” top borders.

Press seams toward borders.

¼” foot for the Brother Luminaire sewing and

embroidery machine

Use the quarter inch foot to sew the leaf blocks and sashing strips for the top

row, following this diagram.

Use the quarter inch foot to sew the leaf blocks and sashing strips for the

bottom row, following this diagram.

Finished leaf shape

Use a blanket stitch to sew down the applique shapes.

QUILTsocial | issue 14

13


Quilting options

on the

Brother Luminaire

sewing and

embroidery machine

3 free motion feet are included with the Brother Luminaire

sewing and embroidery machine.

The serpentine stitch and twin needle used to finish this placemat in the May

23, 2019 QUILTsocial post.

Straight stitch needle plate

Use the needle plate lever to remove the needle plates.

Now it’s time to quilt and there are many options to talk about

when using Brother Luminaire Innov-is XP1!

Quilting in the ditch around the blocks and border would be a

good place to start. The dual feed foot allows you to do this very

easily. There’s also an optional ‘stitch in the ditch’ foot that would

make this process almost foolproof. See what the Dual-Feed

Stitch-in-the-Ditch Foot looks like.

Many of the decorative stitches can also be used for quilting. In

last month’s QUILTsocial post, I used the serpentine stitch. You

can read my post, The Luminaire XP1, its camera and projector for

decorative stitches fun. You’ll also see how I used the projector

feature on the Brother Luminaire quilting and embroidery

machine to keep the stitching lines straight.

14

QUILTsocial | issue 14


Brother XP1 The Luminaire Sewing, Embroidery and Quilting Machine

Free motion quilting is also an option. When in free motion

mode on the Brother Luminaire, the internal sensor detects

the thickness of the fabric and the quilting foot is raised to the

height specified in the machine settings screen. I know, jawdropping

feature.

Settings can be changed on the settings screen. For example,

you would increase the setting when sewing very soft fabric so

that it’s easier to sew.

There are 3 different free motion feet included – foot C, foot

O and foot E. Full instructions for using the 3 different feet are

given in the on-screen manual.

When using the free motion quilting foot C you have to use

the straight stitch needle plate. This is so easy to do on the

Brother Luminaire – just slide the needle plate lever on the bed

of the machine and the needle plate pops up so you can easily

replace it. No screwdriver needed! Watch this video to see how

to remove the needle plate on the Luminaire!

Here are a few of the decorative stitches that I think would work

well for quilting my Leaf wall quilt. I especially like the handquilting

stitch (far right) and the hemstitching stitch (next to the

hand-quilting stitches).

You can also lengthen and/ or adjust the width of the

decorative stitches.

I hope you’ll fun experimenting with decorative stitches when

quilting your next project!

Over the last 2 months, I have managed to use only a few of

the wonderful features on this new Brother Luminaire Innov-ís

XP1 sewing and embroidery machine. You can see many more

features of the Luminaire machine on the Brother website. Be

sure to check it out!

Thanks for joining me. I hope you’ve enjoyed learning about the

features on this wonderful machine!

Decorative stitches that would work as quilting stitches.

Jean Boyd

PatternsByJeanBoyd.com

QUILTsocial | issue 14

15


Making a modern quilt design

Jean Boyd

using traditional quilt blocks

Fat quarter bundles of the Banyan

Batiks Tie One On collection

Table runner made from Tie One On fat quarters

Fat quarters from the “Tie One On” collection in the Ventura colorway

16 QUILTsocial | issue 14

In this feature, I’ll show you how to use 8 fat quarters from the

Banyan Batiks Tie One On collection in the Ventura colorway,

along with some coordinating fabrics from the Ketan collection,

to make table runners and placemats.

All fat quarters are not created equal! Most fat quarters are 18”

long, but if you’re buying fabric in metric measurement, they

will be 20” long. Similarly, some fabrics are not a full 44” wide.

Fortunately, all the Northcott Banyan Batiks that I have used are

44” wide. It’s nice to know you have that extra little bit of fabric

in the width. For the projects this week, all the fat quarters are

18” long and 22” wide.

The plan is to use up all the fat quarters and not have little

pieces left over. Let’s get started! Here are my fat quarters from

the Tie One On collection. Not showing in the picture is one

gray print fat quarter.

I’ll be using 3 different gray Banyan Batiks Ketan fabrics for

bindings and accents #442 Steel Gaze, #441 Silver Lites and

#639 Midnight Caller.

Let’s start by making this table runner. The finished size is 22” x 38”.

Photos by Jean Boyd


Cut 5” strips into 2 pieces.

Sew 2¾” strips together in pairs.

Cut each Tie One On fat quarter, on the

lengthwise grain, into 3 – 5” strips and

2 – 2¾” strips. There will be a narrow strip

left from the fat quarter, but don’t throw

it away – you’ll be using it too! The strips

will be approximately 18” long.

Choose 3 different fabrics from the 5”

strips. I used 2 pink #1 strips, 2 pink #2

strips and 3 gray strips for a total of 7 – 5”

strips

Cut each strip into 2 pieces, varying the

length of each piece.

4 patch blocks

These will be used as accent pieces with

the strips. Choose 4 or 5 – 2¾” strips that

are not the same colors as the 5” strips.

• Cut the strips in half so they are about

9” long.

• Sew 2 different strips together,

joining the long sides. Try to make

as many different combinations as

possible. Don’t press the seams yet.

• Cut the strips into 2¾” segments.

• Sew the segments together to make

4 patch blocks, finger pressing the

seams as you are sewing, so they

nest together. Try to have 4 different

fabrics in each block.

• The blocks should measure 5”.

• You need a total of 7 – 4 patch

blocks. There will be some

segments left over, and they’ll be

used in the next project.

Sew 2¾” segments together.

Completed 4 patch blocks

Finishing the Banyan Batiks Tie One On table runner

When planning a project like

this, I find it very useful to put all

the pieces on a design wall to

arrange them. You could also use

a table or other flat surface.

I finally decided on this

arrangement. I’ll be adding

strips of Banyan Batiks Ketan

#442 Steel Gaze in between the

pieced strips.

You’ll need ½ yd [0.5m] of this

gray fabric as it will also be used

for the binding. This is enough

fabric to cut the binding 3” wide

for a ½” finished size binding.

Putting it all together

• Sashing strips: Cut 3 – 1½” x

WOF from gray Ketan #442.

• Cut each strip in half to make

6 strips 1½” x 22”.

• Sew the 5” strips and 4 patch

blocks together to make the

design you’ve chosen.

• Sew the 1½” gray strips

between the 5” strips. Trim

all the edges as necessary to

make them even.

5'' strips and 4 patch blocks ready to be sewn

QUILTsocial | issue 14

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Now you’re ready to quilt your Banyan Batiks

Tie One On runner. I like to use a fairly thin,

lightweight batting for table runners and

placemats. Baste backing (I used Ketan #282

Carnation), batting and quilt top together.

Sew the 1½” gray strips between the pieced blocks.

Sew the 1½” gray strips between the pieced blocks.

Use a walking foot for quilting.

I decided to do some simple straight-line quilting,

but again, there are many quilting options for

you. Choose the one you like best!

Because this is a fairly small piece, you might like

to use it to practice a new quilting technique

that you’ve always wanted to try. Make sure you

use an even-feed or walking foot when machine

quilting.

Binding

I like to use a ½” finished size binding. You can

find my full instructions for binding in this

QUILTsocial blog post from August 11, 2016,

Change up the way you make your quilt binding.

I hope you’ve enjoyed making this table runner

using

Banyan Batiks Tie One On fabrics.

Sew on binding with a ½” seam.

18 QUILTsocial | issue 14


Quilt pattern

ideas for using

leftover fabric,

Banyan Batiks

Tie One On

Banyan Batiks

Tie One On

placemats

ready to use

Let’s Get Started

• Each placemat is made from 2 – 5”

strips and 7 – 2¾” squares.

• To make 1 placemat, choose 2

different 5” strips. Cut the strips so

they’re 16¼” long.

• Cut 7 – 2¾” squares from the

remaining 2¾” strips. Choose fabrics

that will contrast with your 5” strips.

You might have some 2¾” squares left

from the table runner, and you can

use those as well.

• Sew the 2¾” squares together to

make a strip that is 2¾” x 16¼” long.

• Sew the strips and squares together

to make the placemat top.

• Cut batting and backing so it’s

about 1” larger all around than the

placemat top.

• Layer the placemat, batting and

backing and quilt as desired. I used

some simple, straight line quilting. To

get my quilting lines spaced evenly, I

used the quilting guide and attached

it to my walking foot. Most machines

come with this handy addition. Check

out you accessories box to see if you

have one!

• Trim the placemat so there is ¼”

of batting and backing showing

all around.

Binding

• You’ll need a strip 3” wide x about 68”

long. You could cut 3 – 3” x WOF from

a fat quarter or 2 – 3” x WOF from

yardage you have on hand.

• You could also use strips from 2 or

3 different fabrics. Sew the strips

together to make a strip long enough

to go all around the placemat.

• Sew on the binding using a ½” seam

allowance. Get detailed instructions for

sewing on the binding.

Now you have a choice to make! You

have enough leftover 5” and 2¾” strips

to make a set of 6 placemats. Or you can

make 4 or 5 more placemats and use

them as part of a table runner.

5” strips and 2¾” squares ready to be sewn together Using a quilting guide attached to the walking foot Binding sewn on with ½” seam allowance

QUILTsocial | issue 14

19


Making a quilted table runner out of

a placemat pattern

4 more finished placemats

Let's make another table runner, this time using placemat shapes.

Following the same instructions, make 4 or 5 more placemat

tops, using 2 – 5” strips and 7 – 2¾” squares for each placemat.

Each one will be different, giving this table runner a modern,

scrappy look.

When you cut the original 8 fat quarters into 5” and 2¾”

strips, there was one narrow strip left at the end. Now you

can use that strip to join the “placemats” together to make

the table runner.

These strips will probably be different widths. You can trim them

to a common size or use them just as they are. My runner has

4 “placemats” so I needed 3 joining strips. Sew the placemats

together with the narrow strips.

Sew narrow strips between the placemat sections

Finished fat quarter-friendly placemat table runner

20 QUILTsocial | issue 14

Trim excess fabric from the narrow

strips so all edges are even.

• Cut batting and backing so it’s

about 1” larger all around than

the placemat top.

• Layer backing (I chose red Ketan

#262 Azalea), batting and top.

• Quilt as desired. Again, I did some

simple straight line quilting.

• Remember to use your even-feed

or walking foot for quilting.

• Trim so there is ¼” of backing and

batting showing all around.

• Measure your runner to

determine what length of

binding strips you need. Cut

3” strips (for a ½” finished size

binding) from the Banyan Batiks

fabric of your choice. I used the

gray Ketan #441 Silver Lites.

• Fold binding strip in half, wrong

sides together and press.

• Sew on the binding using a ½”

seam allowance. You can see

detailed instructions for making

and sewing the binding in my

QUILTsocial blog post, Change

up the way you make your quilt

binding.

Do you still have some small strips

and/or squares left over from your

Banyan Batiks Tie One On fabrics?

Keep reading.


Flip &

stitch to

make a

marvelous

mug rug

After making your table runner and/or

placemats, you probably still have some

strips or squares left over. Let’s make a

quick mug rug or table mat and use up

all those leftovers!

• Start by layering a backing piece and

a piece of batting. My backing was

approximately 13” x 17” but yours will

depend on the width and length of

strips you have left over.

• Starting in the center, place 2 strips,

right sides together on the batting

and backing. I put my strips on an

angle so I could use both long and

short leftover strips.

• Using a walking foot or even-feed

foot, stitch the 2 strips together,

through batting and backing.

Table mat from leftover strips

Layer batting and backing.

Stitch strips, right sides together.

QUILTsocial | issue 14

21


Keep adding strips until batting and backing

are covered.

• Flip strip over so the right side is showing.

• Keep adding strips until the batting/backing are covered.

• Trim off excess fabric to square up the edges.

• You can leave this piece the size it is now (mine was about

12” x 16”), or cut it to make 2 or more mug mats.

• The quilting is already done, so you just need to sew on a

binding and your piece is finished!

I hope you’ve enjoyed using and learning more about Banyan

Batiks this week. The Tie One On collection comes in 4 different

colorways. I used the Ventura colorway but each of the other

colorways would give its own unique look to these projects.

There are more fabrics being added to the Banyan Batiks

collection all the time. Be sure to check out the Northcott

website to see all the newest fabrics. And remember to click the

Product Finder Button on the Northcott site to find out which

shops have your favorite Banyan Batiks!

Backing and batting are covered with strips.

Trim excess fabric to square up the edges.

Finished table mat uses up the leftover Banyan Batiks strips from the table runners.

Jean Boyd

patternsbyjeanboyd.com

22 QUILTsocial | issue 14


With bright, high contrast colors such as purple, orange and

turquoise, Banyan Batiks’ latest novelty collection Ride On creates

a unique 3D effect using mists of color and a touch of metallic.

Featuring fun hand-printed tire tracks, retro bikes, gears, wheels

and a double border print, bike enthusiasts are sure to love these

cool and colorful batiks. Available in four distinctive colorways, it

will be hard to pick your favorite… so you might just have to get

them all!

Visit BanyanBatiks.com to view the entire collection, and use the

Product Finder tool to search for a local quilt shop that carries

Ride On.

23


Say it with

free

motion

quilting,

a designer cushion

Julie Plotniko

Say it with free motion quilting – designer cushion

Gütermann Dekor rayon thread color

7337 Bright Aqua

Free motion quilting is one of my

favorite things to do and I’m always

exploring new and exciting variations.

I had fun using applique words in

my QUILTsocial blog post 5 easy steps

to make a quilted spring banner and

wondered could I also create words with

quilting?

With my beautiful Gütermann Dekor

rayon thread the answer, of course, is a

resounding yes!

materials

Gütermann thread – a quilters palette

My thread of choice for quilting this

project is the beautiful Gütermann

Dekor Rayon.

This lovely rayon thread comes in a wide

variety of colors, is easy to work with and

gives a soft sheen to the stitching.

A small selection of Gütermann Dekor rayon thread

24 QUILTsocial | issue 14

Photos by Julie Plotniko


I like quite dense quilting so I needed 2 of the 220-yard

spools.

Though the wrong side of the stitching will not show I

like to use the same thread in the bobbin.

This way I will not have to worry about the back thread

showing on the top and my machine tension will be

easy to set.

fabric – a quilter’s canvas

My fabric for this project is Canvas from Northcott. I love

the way the subtle color changes add extra detail to my

quilting.

• 5⁄8 yd for pillow front and back, color 9030-11 was

used for the sample

• ½ yd of a contrasting color for a ruffle to match the

thread, color 9030-63 was used for the sample

• 20” square of plain fabric for the back of your

quilted piece, this will be on the inside of the

pillow and will not show

• 2 – 20” squares Fairfield Soft & Toasty natural cotton

batting

threads

• 1 spool Gütermann 50wt cotton in a color to match

your main fabric

• 1 spool Gütermann 50wt cotton in a color to match

your contrasting fabric

needles

• 1 package SCHMETZ quilting needles

other

• 1 UNIQUE fast-fade marker

• 1 UNIQUE wash out marker

• 1 package Heirloom 1½” safety pins

• 18” Fairfield Decorator’s Choice pillow form

• sharp pair of small curved scissors

• 2½” – 3” letter stencil or stick on letters

• rotary cutter, ruler and mat

• painters tape

equipment

sewing machine with

• darning foot

• ¼ foot

• standard sewing foot

• walking foot

Prepare your fabric

From your main pillow fabric cut:

• 1 square 20” for pillow front

• 2 pieces 18½” x 11” for the pillow back

From your contrasting fabric cut:

• 3 strips 5½ x width of fabric

We’ve gathered our materials, cut our fabric to size and

are off to a great start.

Canvas by Northcott

Some additional supplies

Fabric and batting ready to go

QUILTsocial | issue 14

25


Good preparation is the key to success.

Mark

layer

baste

easy preparation for machine quilting

Our pillow front will be quilted twice

in some areas to create an effect called

trapunto.

This is a form of stuffed quilting in which

some areas use two layers of batting to

give a raised, 3-dimensional effect.

Our Gütermann Dekor rayon thread will

really make the quilting stand out!

Marking Matters

Before we layer our pillow front we need

to mark the areas that we will quilt the

first time. These are the areas that will

have the trapunto effect.

With painters tape secure the 20” square

of fabric for your pillow front to a flat

surface. Be sure that the right side of the

fabric is facing up.

Use a stencil or stick on letters to mark

your inspirational word.

I used the word ‘dream’.

Imagine, inspire, create, quilt or even

phrases of poems would be lovely. (You

might just need a bigger cushion!)

Preview the positioning of your letters

before you mark. The stick-on poster

letters are great for this as they make it

easy to see the positioning.

Simply draw around them when you’re

ready to mark.

Use a base line to ensure that the letters

are straight.

Funky, playful writing can also be fun!

Be bold, place your letters on an angle, a

curve or even scattered randomly.

Once happy with the positioning of your

letters use a fabric marker to transfer the

writing to your fabric.

I chose UNIQUE fabric markers for this

project as they mark clearly and are easy

to remove.

UNIQUE markers come in two types, fastfade

and wash-out.

You need to consider how quickly you’ll

get the marked design quilted before

choosing which marker to use.

Preview your letters. Use a ruler to create a base line. Angles can be fun.

26 QUILTsocial | issue 14


The fast-fade marker is meant to do

just that.

It fades away fairly quickly so that you

don’t need to worry about washing the

marks out before using your project.

To be completely removed it does need

to be washed out, like all other markers.

The wash-out marker will make lines

Next, mark some freehand motifs. I used

flowers, leaves, and dragonflies.

Make them big enough that you’ll be

able to easily trim the batting from

around the outside of the design once

it’s stitched.

Don’t worry if you’re not satisfied with your

drawings at first. UNIQUE markers make it

easy to make changes. I always do!

If you’re nervous about drawing directly

onto the fabric you can create your

designs on paper first. Coloring books

are a great design source if you aren’t

comfortable with freehand drawing.

Remove the painters’ tape once you’re

finished drawing.

Though traditional basting is done with

either machine or hand stitching this is

not satisfactory when machine quilting

as the dense stitching over top makes

the basting thread difficult to remove.

For the designer cushion, baste with

safety pins.

This will hold the layers firmly in place

as well as make it easy to trim away the

excess batting to create the trapunto

effect.

Using Heirloom safety pins lightly pin

baste your marked fabric to the single

layer of batting.

UNIQUE fast-fade fabric marker

that will not disappear until the item is

washed.

If you don’t feel that you will quilt

your design immediately after

marking then it would be better to

use a wash-away marker.

This is also the time to make any

UNIQUE wash-out fabric marker

adjustments you need.

I found the E in my stick-on letters a bit

narrow so I adjusted it more to my liking.

Draw designs on paper first.

Layering fabric and batting

Place one of the 20” squares of Fairfield

Soft & Toasty natural cotton batting on a

flat surface.

Position the marked fabric square on top

of the batting and smooth in place.

Note: Normally a quilt sandwich is made

from three layers, a backing fabric, batting

and front fabric.

In this case, we do not need a backing

fabric for the first layer as parts will be

trimmed away of the batting to create

the trapunto effect.

Basting for success

There are several methods that can be

used to “baste” or hold the layers of a

quilted item together.

This is done so that the layers won’t slip

out of place and cause puckers.

Cushion front marked, layered and pin basted

Our designer cushion front is marked,

layered, basted and ready for us to start

stitching.

Letters marked and adjusted

QUILTsocial | issue 14

27


Quilting words – so much to say

using Gütermann Dekor thread!

I hope you’ve been having fun getting

ready to free motion quilt words and

more for a designer cushion.

Was it hard deciding what you wanted

to say? Maybe you’re already making

more than one?

We learned how to mark, layer and

baste your piece. Now it’s time to

create our trapunto using wonderful

Gütermann thread.

Prepare your machine for free

motion quilting

Put a new size 75/11 SCHMETZ Quilting

needle on your machine.

A quilting needle will pierce the multiple

layers of batting and fabric quickly and

easily. The size 75/11 is appropriate to

the type of thread used in this project as

well as the size of patterns being stitch.

Next, put a darning foot on your machine.

This is sometimes called a pogo or

free motion quilting foot. There are a

variety of different types of darning feet

available for most machines. Use the one

that you’re most comfortable with.

Drop or cover the feed dogs.

These are the little teeth in the base of

the machine that usually feed the fabric

forward. Check your machine manual if

you’re not sure how to do this.

When we disengage the feed dogs were

able to freely move the fabric in any

direction. We’ll also be in control of the

stitch length.

Thread your machine. We're stitching

all of the lines that were drawn on

the fabric.

Once the batting has been trimmed

stitch over the same set of lines a

second time.

It’s time to quilt!

Thread the machine to start with

Gütermann 50 weight cotton thread in a

color similar to your background fabric.

This is a great confidence booster for

new quilters as there’s no need to be too

precise with the outline stitching.

The first set of stitching allows to trim

away the excess batting while giving you

a practice run at following the design.

After you stitch the second time this first

line of stitching will be almost invisible

even if you don’t quite manage to stitch

directly over top.

If confident at covering the same line

of stitching twice, simply thread your

machine with your Gütermann Dekor

rayon thread in both the top and bobbin.

Sewing machine ready for free motion quilting.

A variety of darning or free motion quilting feet

Let’s get quilting

Outline quilt each of the letters.

Stitch the outlines only of the drawn

designs. The detail will be stitched later.

For now, we just want to be able to trim

away the extra batting.

Stitch in order of size starting with the

largest design. This will help keep your

piece square.

Remove any Heirloom safety pins that are

in the way as you stitch.

Don’t worry if there’s some twisting or

buckling between the motifs as you will

be trimming the extra batting away.

Stitch the first time with thread that matches the

background fabric

28 QUILTsocial | issue 14


Now for the magic

Turn your piece over and very carefully

trim away all of the batting outside the

stitched lines.

Put a little tension on the batting to get

as close to the stitched lines as possible

without cutting the thread.

Take care not to allow any little folds in

the fabric that might result in cutting a

hole along the stitching line. If a mishap

does occur I find fusible interfacing is a

great fix.

Once fully quilted the item will be as

good as new.

Batting trimmed outside outline stitching – back view

Time to layer again

It’s time to create the final quilt

sandwich.

This time use painters tape to secure the

plain fabric for the inside of the cushion

to a flat surface.

Smooth the second 20'' square of

Fairfield Soft & Toasty natural cotton

batting on top.

Finally, smooth the partially quilted

square on top of the batting and lightly

pin baste with Heirloom safety pins.

Our quilted words are looking so pretty!

You’re all ready for the next step when

we bring everything to life with beautiful

Gütermann Dekor rayon thread and lots of

background quilting.

Layer again with a backing fabric and second

square of batting

Making quilted words pop,

it’s all about the thread

Now it’s time to really make those

quilted words pop as beautiful

Gütermann Dekor rayon thread brings life

to our designer cushion!

All of the stitching from now on will

be done with Gütermann Dekor

Rayon thread that contrasts with the

background fabric.

I used a single color throughout a variety

of colors either solid or variegated would

be equally gorgeous. The thread really

brings this design to life so don’t be shy

about color. Use your contrasting fabric

to help you decide.

Anchoring the letters and designs

with stitching

Having stitched around the letters and

drawn designs on the front of your

designer cushion once already.

Now we need to stitch those same lines

a second time. This anchors the designs

to the additional layer of batting and

gives them more definition.

The second line of stitching should be

directly on top of the first or as close to it

as possible.

The first time around you probably

stitched with Gütermann cotton thread

the same color as your background

fabric. If so then you’re OK if you miss

the line a bit. The cotton thread will just

blend in with the background fabric and

add more texture. This is especially true

with the wonderful line of fabric called

Canvas from Northcott.

If you stitched using the contrasting

thread for the first line of stitching try

to be as accurate as possible when

recrossing the same lines.

Outline stitch over top of the previous stitching

The first set of outline stitching was very

plain, just enough to be able to trim the

extra batting away.

When you stitch around the second time

you can add more detail. Don’t overdo

it or the trapunto areas will lose their

puffiness.

QUILTsocial | issue 14

29


Outline stitch over top of the previous stitching

TIPS for free motion quilting on an

existing line

Free motion quilting on an existing line,

either drawn or stitched can be tricky.

The best way to stay on a line is to look

ahead to where you want to be. It’s kind

of like when you drive your car. If you

look at the road directly in front of the

car you’ll weave all over the place.

Look at something you don’t want to hit

well… we all know what happens there!

When you’re free motion quilting you

don’t want to look at the needle. This is

like looking down at the road, you’ll be

off the line most of the time. Try to look

ahead of where you’re actually stitching

on the design. In other words, look

where you want to go.

Try to look for obvious pause points

where it will be easy to stop and

reposition your hands.

Above all, relax and have fun!

Background fill makes our quilting

special

There are an infinite number of designs

you could use to quilt the background of

your designer cushion.

I chose a swirl design because it reminds

me of the movement of wind and water.

‘Dream’ could mean you’re sleeping …

floating on a cloud.

‘Dream’ could also mean to follow your

dreams, dream big, you’re capable of

your dreams.

Swirls seemed to fit this theme.

I used a little squiggle for the areas that

were too small for the swirls to fit in.

Swirl design background quilting

Consider both your comfort level as well

as what you like when choosing your

background design. This is a great time

to try stitching new designs.

Keep the scale of the design small in

relation to your other quilting. If the

background design is too large your

main elements will start to disappear.

Gütermann Dekor rayon thread helps to

achieve beautiful results.

It’s pliable enough to stitch small designs

while the lovely sheen adds a whole

extra dimension to the background

stitching that helps the words and other

trapunto elements stand out even more.

Aside from the lettering, our designs are

fairly organic.

Keep your background stitching small.

If you really go off course just add an

element. Pop in an extra leaf or flower.

How about a curlicue or vine?

There are no mistakes, only happy

accidents!

Just add a stem or vine if you stray off a line.

We’ve completed the quilting and it

looks amazing thanks to our Gütermann

Dekor rayon thread.

Quilting backgrounds can be relaxing and fun!

30 QUILTsocial | issue 14


31


A gourmet finish for a

quilted designer cushion

Preparing your pieces

Trim the quilted cushion front to

measure 18½” square. Set aside for now.

Topstitch close to the inner fold.

Your backing pieces will now have one

finished side and three unfinished.

Press and set aside for later.

Square up the short sides of your 5½” strips

Trim the quilted cushion front

Prepare your machine with a new

SCHMETZ 75/11 Quilting needle and the

standard sewing foot.

Thread with Gütermann 50 weight

cotton thread in a color to match your

backing fabric.

Fold under ¼” to the back on one long

side of each of your backing pieces

and press.

Fold under and press again

Creating and attaching the cushion ruffle

Using a rotary cutter and ruler, square off

the short ends of your previously cut 5½”

strips of accent fabric.

Be sure to remove all of the selvedges.

Put a ¼” foot on your machine and

change to Gütermann 50 weight cotton

thread in a color that matches the accent

fabric.

Using a ¼ seam sew the three 5½” strips

together on the short sides so that you

have one long piece.

Bring the two ends together taking care

not to twist the strips. Sew the ends to

create a large loop.

Press the seams open.

Fold edge of one long side under ¼”

Fold under ¼ a second time to cover the

raw edge and press.

Fold under and press again

32 QUILTsocial | issue 14

Say it with free motion quilting – designer cushion


Fold in half lengthwise, wrong sides

together and press.

Take care that the raw edges are even.

Put the standard sewing foot back on

your machine and lengthen your stitch

length to as long as it will go.

Leave a long tail and stitch a row of

basting stitches all the way around the

loop about ¼” away from the raw edge.

Stitch a second row of basting stitches

just to the inside of the first.

By using a matching thread color I won’t

have to worry about taking out the

basting stitches later.

Machine baste the ruffle in place using a

slightly shorter basting stitch.

Baste the ruffle to the cushion front.

The finish line

With the right sides together and the

raw edges even pin the first half of your

cushion backing to the cushion front.

Repeat for the opposite side.

Your backing pieces will overlap in the

center.

Take care not to catch the loose edge of

the ruffle piece.

I used my standard sewing foot but you

can use a walking foot if you prefer.

Turn right sides out, press and insert the

18” Fairfield Decorator’s Choice pillow form.

Completed designer cushion back

Thanks for joining me for this week’s

project.

I hope you enjoy your new designer

cushion quilted with Gütermann Dekor

rayon thread.

I just know you’ll get many requests to

say it with free motion quilting!

Two rows of basting stitches.

Using pins or your UNIQUE Quilters’ fastfade

marker, divide the ruffle piece into

four equal sections.

Mark the center of each side of the

cushion front.

Pin the ruffle piece in place matching the

marks on the ruffle piece to the marks on

the cushion front.

Take care not to twist the ruffle.

Pull up the gathering stitches until the

ruffle is the same size as your cushion

front.

Pin so that the ruffles are evenly

distributed and all raw edges are even.

Make sure that the ruffle has a little extra

fullness on the corners.

Pin the cushion back pieces in place.

Using a slightly generous ¼” seam and a

normal stitch length stitch the backing

in place.

Julie Plotniko

juliesquiltclass.blogspot.ca

QUILTsocial | issue 14

33


5

steps for

adding

a pop

of color

Husqvarna Viking Designer EPIC with the optional extension table

with a flange in the binding

Elaine Theriault

Are you ready for another super exciting

article of tips to make your sewing and

quilting easier and better! Let’s not

forget that I’ve got an awesome sewing

machine to demonstrate all those tips

and tricks with.

I’m having fun with the Husqvarna Viking

Designer EPIC, a sewing and embroidery

machine. I’ll show you some interesting

things from both a sewing perspective

and I’m going to play around with some

embroidery as well. Really, it’s all about

playing and having fun!

Let's start with another type of binding.

This is a great technique if you’re in the

habit of sewing your bindings on by

machine. It’s all about a binding with the

added pop of a little flange.

Let’s jump in and see what it’s all about.

By the way, the quilt that I’m putting

this binding on has a lot of green

background in it. The binding is the

same color as the background and I

thought the flange would be a perfect

way to pop out the colors in the blocks

of the quilt.

There’s a lot of green in the background of this quilt

Step 1 - Cut the binding strips

After you’ve chosen your binding fabric

and the accent (flange) fabric, you’re

ready to cut the binding strips.

To calculate the number of strips

required, I’ve outlined here THE formula

for calculating the necessary yardage for

binding your quilt so please pop over

there to work out the numbers.

The flange (red) fabric is cut 1½” wide

by the width of fabric (WOF) and the

binding (green) is cut 1¼” by WOF.

Notice there is ¼” difference between

the two strip widths. This will produce

a flange that’s 1⁄8”

wide. You can easily

change the width

of your binding (this

formula will produce

a binding that is 2¼”

wide), just keep the

flange ¼” larger than

the binding fabric. If

you want a smaller (or

larger) flange, then

adjust the difference

between the two

strip widths.

The accent strips

on the left and the

binding strips on the

right are cut

That’ll make a whole lot more sense

when you see how the binding is

created so bear with me.

34 QUILTsocial | issue 14

Photos by Elaine Theriault


Step 2 - Join the strips

Now that all the strips are cut, it’s time to

join them together. You need to join all

the flange strips together to create one

long strip. I like to use a diagonal seam

as that reduces bulk in the binding.

I don’t bother to cut off the selvages

before I join the strips, and you can see

that I’ve overlapped the ends. I have two

reasons for that overlap. When I trim the

seam, the selvages will be trimmed off,

but more importantly, those overlaps

allow me to more easily see where to

stop and start my diagonal seam.

Sewing the strips together with the embroidery

unit still attached to the Designer EPIC

to the machine. I was doing some

embroidery, but I needed to stitch these

seams together. I love the fact that we

don’t have to take off the embroidery unit

to sew. Now if I were sewing something

large, I would remove the embroidery

unit as I don’t want to damage it.

Once you’re done with the flange

strips, repeat the process with the 1¼”

binding strips.

When you’re done, you’ll have two long

skinny strips of fabric – one that’ll become

the flange and the other is the binding.

Step 3 - Sew the flange to the binding

It’s time to sew the two long strips

together. My two strips (I’m using

Northcott Banyan Batiks in my example)

happen to be the same length. I

don’t want the two joins to fall in the

exact same place where they’ll create

unnecessary bulk so I’m going to offset

the end of the strips by about 2”.

Using the 45-degree line on the ruler to draw my

line for the diagonal seam

I’ve covered joining the seams in a

bit more detail in my post, Binding a

Quilt. Let’s just say that I’ve written a lot

about bindings!

Pin the intersection to prevent it from shifting

when you stitch on the drawn line

Trim the excess corners (and selvages) away

leaving ¼” seam allowance

Once the seams are sewn on the

diagonal, trim away the excess leaving

a ¼” seam allowance. You’ll be trimming

the selvages away at the same time.

The seams are pressed open to reduce bulk.

Press the seams open to reduce bulk. I

don’t bother to trim off the dog ears.

Offset the ends of the strips if the joins of the two

strips will be positioned beside each other.

Sew the two long strips together using

an accurate and consistent ¼” seam

allowance.

The joins of the two strips are offset from each

other to prevent unnecessary bulk.

You can see in the photo below that the

seams of the two strips are offset so they

don’t create unnecessary bulk when the

binding is attached to the quilt.

Step 4 - Pressing the binding

Carefully press the seam towards the

binding fabric. It’s best to do this from

I used a ruler to draw a line and I pin

the strips together. If you don’t want to,

you don’t have to. I know lots of people

eyeball this seam as those strips are

only 1½” wide. It’s just that I like to be

consistent so I always do it this way. Call

me ‘set in my ways’!

Then I sewed those diagonal seams

together on the Designer EPIC. Notice

that the embroidery unit is still attached

A long skinny strip of fabric for the flange and a

second long strip for the binding

The seam allowance is pressed towards the

binding fabric.

QUILTsocial | issue 14

35


the FRONT of the binding to prevent

tucks from occurring along the seam.

Make sure you don’t distort the

binding – in other words, try to keep

the seam straight as you press the

length of the binding.

Then you’ll press the binding in half with

wrong sides together. Keep those long

raw edges even. See how that flange

just peaks over the edge of the binding?

My flange measures about 1⁄8” but as

Fold the joined binding/flange strips in half to reveal

the narrow flange on the right side of the binding.

I mentioned, if you want that flange

a wee bit narrower, then reduce the

difference between the two strip widths

to perhaps 3⁄16”.

The beginning and ending ends of the completed

binding strip are offset to prevent the joins from

being side by side.

Do some experimenting and see what

you come up with.

In the photo below, you can see how

both ends of my binding were offset to

prevent the diagonal seams of the joins

from sitting beside each other.

Wind the binding strip as shown at the

start of this feature.

The binding is wound into a figure eight and

ready to sew on the quilt

Be careful when you wind the binding

as you want to have the appropriate

end ready to start sewing. With regular

binding, it doesn’t matter which end

you start with, but with the flange, it’s

important which end you start with.

You’ll see what I mean in a minute.

Step 5 - Sew the binding to the quilt

The process of sewing a binding with

a flange to a quilt is the same as if you

were sewing a regular binding to a quilt.

There is ONE exception and that is which

end of the binding strip to start with. To

review the process of starting, turning

corners, etc. I’ll refer you once again to

my post, Binding a Quilt for more details.

Remember we’ll be stitching this

binding to the front of the quilt with the

Designer EPIC, therefore we’ll start by

sewing the binding to the back of the

quilt. This is the same way we would sew

a regular binding to a quilt if both sides

will be sewn by sewing machine.

So which end of the binding do you

start with? In the photo below, you can

see that I start with the end where the

binding (green) will be touching the

back of the quilt. If I started with the

other end, I would only be able to see

the flange fabric when I flipped the

binding to the front of the quilt. Don’t

believe me? Try it!

A note of CAUTION. This binding with

the flange measures 2¼” wide. The

binding that I normally make is 2½” wide.

I had to adjust my seam allowance to

compensate for the difference in width.

This is CRITICAL. If you’re not sure what

seam allowance to use, make a sample

or play around until you know that the

width is correct. Stitch a few inches and

remove the quilt from under the presser

foot and test the width. Is it OK? If so,

keep going. If not – adjust it!

My seam allowance is slightly larger than ¼”,

using the Quilter’s ¼” piecing foot as a guide.

I used my Quilter’s ¼” Piecing Foot to

stitch both sides of the binding and it

worked like a charm. Remember to put

a little bit of tension on the binding as

you’re sewing it. That helps to prevent

a wavy edge to your quilt. Notice that I

was sewing slight larger than a ¼” seam

allowance but not by much.

I should mention that I removed the

embroidery unit from the Designer

EPIC. I didn’t want that quilt falling onto

the embroidery arm and potentially

damaging it. I put the extension table

onto the sewing machine and I LOVE

how the quilt just glides over that

beautifully curved edge.

The extension table makes it a snap to bind a quilt

and the figure eight of binding never gets twisted

36 QUILTsocial | issue 14

Start stitching the binding to the back of the quilt

with the flange facing UP


Notice that the figure eight of binding

just sits right there on the edge of the

table. No twisted binding and no gadget

to remember to use (or find). I’ve used this

method for countless bindings and I just

love easy and simple it is to bind a quilt.

Now that the binding is sewn to the

back of the quilt, it’s time to stitch it

onto the front of the quilt. This is where

the flange does its second job (the first

is to add a pop of color to the front of

the quilt). Essentially, I’m stitching in

the ditch between the flange and the

binding.

Set up the sewing machine with a thread

that matches the quilt backing in the

bobbin. And for the top thread, you want

one that matches the flange.

Carefully stitch in the ditch between

the flange and the binding. I covered in

detail how to get those mitered corners

just right.

A beautiful colored flange on the front of the quilt and

you can barely notice the stitching on the backing.

Stitching the

binding to the

front of the quilt by

stitching in the ditch

between the flange

and the binding

Now we have a gorgeous binding with a

pop of color in the flange to accent the

fish in the quilt.

Doing a binding this way takes a bit

more time in the prep work, but the end

result is so worth it.

A note about the quilt – it

is NOT my design. I was

asked to test a pattern for a

designer. This is the finished

product. I was waiting for this

moment to add that flanged

binding. Now to hand-stitch

the sleeve and it’s done!

When you pull that binding to the front

of the quilt, make sure that you pull it

over so that the stitching in the ditch

will cover the existing line of stitching

that was created when you sewed the

binding to the back of the quilt. No one

wants to peek under your flange and see

a line of stitching there.

The colored flange adds just a touch of color to the outer edges of the quilt

QUILTsocial | issue 14

37


A drawer full of various colors of thread

Having a fast sewing machine like the

Husqvarna Viking Designer EPIC makes

this job a whole lot easier and faster.

Not only the speed but the penetration

power of the Designer EPIC makes quick

work of stitching that binding in place. I

had barely started and I was DONE!

I wanted to say something about thread

color. Don’t drive yourself crazy to find a

thread that exactly matches your fabrics.

I have a drawer of mostly small spools of

thread that have collected over the years.

Most likely because I was topstitching

something or I just liked the color.

Who knows how one collects this stuff.

Anyway, all the colored spools of thread

are in one spot. When I need to choose

the thread for the backing or the binding,

I open up this drawer and I find the BEST

match, not the EXACT match. I’m much

more likely to have a BEST match than I

am to have an EXACT match. I certainly

don’t have time to run to the store each

time I need a bit of thread to bind a quilt.

As an example, here’s the color of thread

that I used for the bobbin in the final

step of the attaching the binding. That

is nowhere near an exact match to that

backing, but when you run a single

strand across the backing, the thread

pretty much disappears.

Thread used for the bobbin when sewing the

binding to the quilt – it’s not an exact match

6 steps

to add

lettering to

your quilt

sashings

Step 1 - Choose the sashing

While it’s important to choose the right

color of fabric for the sashing, it’s even

more important if you’re adding lettering.

I like my lettering to be legible, but I don’t

want the words to dominate the quilt.

Here’s my stack of blocks that I’m

working with. There are 111 blocks in

total and I’m including all the blocks

in one large quilt. The blocks are all

different with various colors on the outer

edges of the blocks. I need to find one

fabric that’ll work with all the blocks.

I went through my stash and found four

possible fabrics to use for the sashing.

I eliminated the one on the left. It’s a

very busy print and the wording won’t

show up at all. The two colors in the

print are working nicely together and if

I were to add something else, it would

be too much.

I eliminated the burgundy one as well.

Why? The pattern is very spread out

and my sashings will finish at 1” x 6”. The

pattern in the sashing will vary too much

and the words won’t show up as well

as they could. Let’s not forget that the

sashing is to provide a framework for

the blocks. The burgundy fabric will not

provide a cohesive look.

That leaves me with the gold and

the green. Both of which are fairly

monochromatic. Let’s audition each with

the blocks and see what happens.

Quilt blocks that will be sashed and made into

a quilt.

38 QUILTsocial | issue 14


Let’s see how the dark green works. I

placed the same blocks on the green

and look how they pop off that fabric.

I want the blocks to be the star of the

quilt, not the sashing.

the top two, but I finally settled on

the top thread. See how the second

from the top blends in so much that

we can barely see the thread. The top

thread, however, has a slightly lighter

value than the fabric and also a slightly

different hue of green. Looks good to

me. Remember how I try to pick the BEST

match with what I have, rather than the

EXACT match.

Four different fabrics that could work for the sashing.

I grabbed some random blocks. Hmm

– that gold is not doing anything for me

or the blocks. The blocks just seem to

fade into the sashing. This’ll make for a

ho-hum quilt considering that it’s going

to be a very large quilt.

The blocks become the focal point, not the sashing.

Even the blocks with dark outer edge

seem to look better on the green than

they did on the gold.

It looks like I’ve made my decision.

The other thing to consider is how

much fabric you have. Since I had equal

amounts of the green and the gold, that

wasn’t a factor in my decision.

Choosing between five different thread colors

Step 3 - Setting up the Designer EPIC

I swapped out the Straight Stitch plate

for the Zigzag Stitch plate. I think it’s

pretty obvious why I had to do that. The

needle will be moving to the left and

right and I need an opening in the stitch

plate to allow that to happen. Even

though this stitch plate is large, there’s a

handy spot to store it in the bottom of

the accessory box.

One of the great features of the Designer

The blocks appear to blend right into the sashing.

I also tried some of the darker blocks on

the gold sashing and while they look

better than the previous ones did, blocks

with darker outsides are in the minority. I

think I’m going to eliminate the gold for

the sashing.

Fabrics with dark outer edges still stand out on

the green fabric.

Step 2 - Choosing the thread color

I want the words to be subtle yet I want

people to be able to read the words if

they want. I don’t want the words to be

visible unless you’re looking for them.

I went to my thread box and pulled

out a couple of spools of embroidery

thread that somewhat matched the

green fabric. The bottom three were very

light – too light for what I wanted so I

eliminated them.

It was a bit of a tough decision between

The Zigzag stitch plate on top and the Straight

Stitch plate on the bottom

Blocks with dark outer edges pop on the gold fabric

QUILTsocial | issue 14

39


EPIC is the Stitch Width Safety. When the

Straight Stitch Plate is in use, the stitch

width safety features kicks in. You cannot

move the needle to the right or the

left so there’s no danger of choosing a

zigzag stitch when you have the Straight

Stitch Plate installed.

After I removed the Straight Stitch Plate,

I got this popup message. It’s a handy

reminder. Just because you’ve removed

the Straight Stitch Plate, you can still run

into problems if you haven’t changed to

the appropriate foot or other accessories.

Let’s say that you were piecing with

the Quilter’s ¼” Piecing Foot. There’s no

room for the needle to move out of

center position so this popup is a good

reminder to remove the foot and any

other accessories that may damage or

break needles on the sewing machine.

As per the Exclusive Sewing Advisor, I’ve

Popup message regarding the Stitch Width Safety

attached the B foot. The B foot is perfect

for stitching the lettering. There’s a

channel on the underside of the B foot.

This allows the height of the stitching to

move smoothly beneath the foot with

no jamming.

I’m using one of the five built-in fonts.

when stitched out, do a sample of each.

Try the upper case, try the lower case, try

the special symbols or the numbers to

see the style of the fonts.

I chose Block alphabet because it’s

simple to read and this is important

when the thread will be closely matched

to the fabric.

Font menu with five built-in fonts

Step 4 - Prepping the fabric

My sashings will be 1” x 6” finished. I

don’t want the hassle of centering the

lettering on a 6½” wide strip so I cut

the strip about 8” to have some room

to center the lettering when I cut the

sashings apart.

I used a choc-o-liner and a ruler and

marked a line every 2” on the fabric. This

will be the guideline for the stitching.

This step is very important, otherwise,

you’ll get a lot of puckering which won’t

look nice.

A narrow strip of stitch n tear stabilizer to stabilize

the line of stitching

While it’s hard to see in the photo below

(as I said – I wanted these words to be

very subtle), you can see the puckering

at the beginning of the word BUZZARD

in the top row of stitching. That’s

because when I inserted the stabilizer, it

didn’t go all the way to the beginning

of where I was going to stitch. Lesson

learned – make the strips a bit longer!

In the second row of stitching, you can

see that there’s no puckering.

The B foot with a channel on the underside to

prevent raised stitches from jamming

There’s a separate menu for the fonts

which you can reach by touching the

green tab in the next photo.

If you’re not sure how the letters will look

40 QUILTsocial | issue 14

The fabric is marked every two inches with chalk

for stitching guidelines.

The lettering is too dense to stitch on the

single layer of fabric by itself. I’ll need to

use a stabilizer as well. I’m using a stitch

and tear product. Rather than cut one

large piece to put on the backing, I used

some smaller strips that were leftover

from another project.

Puckering at the beginning of the lettering where

there was no stabilizer

Step 5 - Stitching out the wording

In the next photo, you can see that the

Block Alphabet is highlighted. This is the

one that I’m using and I’ve typed in the

block name (Basket). I used all uppercase

letters because that’s what I wanted.


The keyboard on the bottom of the

screen is very easy to use and extremely

responsive. That’s very important. I

also programmed a FIX which will tie

off the threads at the end of the stitch

sequence – in this case, at the end of the

word Basket. I’ve also included a STOP

function. This will tell the Designer EPIC

to stop stitching once it reaches the end

of the word. If the STOP function was

not programmed into this sequence, the

machine would keep stitching the same

word over and over again, which is not

what I want.

There’s lots of information on this screen.

I’m also seeing that the length of the

word (the program) is 48mm. Since

I’m not good with millimeters (mm), it

was very handy to have the imperial

and metric rulers along the bottom

front edge of the sewing machine and

also along the edge of the extension

table. For some things, I only use metric,

for others I only use imperial and for

others, I’m good with both. For small

measurements – I use inches and I can’t

seem to visualize millimeters in my head.

One of the block titles was too long to

fit within my 6” parameters. I tried the

block name using small letters and it

was still too long. Fortunately, I’m able to

shrink the words by playing around with

the program length. Originally it was

something like 190mm and I’ve shrunk

it down to 128.3mm which will fit within

my 6” sashing. I only shrunk those that

did not fit. Everything else, I kept at the

original size. But how handy is that? No

need to truncate the block name, just

shrink it a wee bit.

Based on the length of the word in mm, I

guessed where the stitching should start.

When I cut the sashings apart, I’ll center

the words and if it can’t be centered

exactly, it’ll be close enough. These

words are NOT obvious so no one will

notice it it’s a wee bit off center.

Before hitting START/STOP, make sure

you slip your strip of stabilizer under the

fabric and center it along that chalk line.

Start the stitching process by touching

the START/STOP function that’s

conveniently placed right above the

needle on the function panel. No need

to use the foot pedal for this.

The function panel of the Designer EPIC

It’s VERY important that as the sewing

machine stitches the lettering that you

keep your hands on the fabric to ensure

that the center red mark on the B foot is

centered on the chalk line.

The stitch sequence has been programmed

including a FIX and a STOP.

Trying to shorten the length of this program by

using lowercase letters

Here you can see where I’ve shrunk

down the block name so it would fit

within the sashing perimeter.

Yes – I know it’s hard to see the lettering.

It does show up a little easier in real life.

But the top version was too long, so I

used the program length to shorten the

block name until it fit in the 6” sashing.

Keep the center line of the B Foot centered on the

chalk line

This is what happens when you don’t pay

attention to that line. I started off with

the word centered on the chalk line and

then – oops – the word went wonky. You

need to have your hands on the fabric at

all times to guide it.

The speed of the Designer EPIC means

that each row of stitching went very fast

so it wasn’t a big deal to pay attention for

that short period of time.

The bottom line of stitching has been shrunk to fit

the 6'' sashing.

Oops – didn’t follow the chalk line.

QUILTsocial | issue 14

41


Step 6 - Trim the sashing

Before you trim the sashing, carefully

remove the stitch n tear stabilizer. It’s not

necessary that all the bits be removed

from the lettering. Get the bulk of it out.

The rest will disintegrate when the quilt

is washed.

Place the ¾” line of the ruler along the

chalk line. Cut the excess away.

Turn the piece around and cut a 1½” strips

with the lettering centered in the middle.

Place the 3⁄4'' line of the ruler on the chalk line to

center the wording on the sashing

The sashing has been trimmed to 1½” x 6½”

Then centering the word lengthwise,

trim the strip so that it measures 6½”.

I’m in the process of finishing the rest of

the lettering in the sashing and until I

can lay out all the blocks on the design

wall, I won’t be able to start stitching

the sashing to the blocks. It didn’t take

long to stitch out the entire width of

fabric (about 21 words per width), but

it does take some time to trim them up

since you want the words to be centered

within the sashing.

I’ve done this with another quilt that had

a large number of blocks in it.

On the upper right you can see the name

of the block (Tic-Tac-Toe) is stitched in the

sashing which corresponds to the block

that it’s sewn to.

The block name is stitched into the sashing.

This is a really fun way to dress up your

quilt. I like to include elements that

will draw the audience in to have a

closer look. Once they realize that the

block names are in the quilt, they begin

searching to know the names of certain

blocks.

Using the Husqvarna Viking Designer EPIC

to perform this task was easy and fast.

And that’s important when you have 111

block names to stitch out.

6 steps:

adding

lettering to

quilt sashings

using

machine

embroidery

Step 1 - Set up the Designer EPIC for

machine embroidery

It’s very easy to slide off the extension

table and add the embroidery unit to

the Designer EPIC.

Be sure that there is plenty of room on

all sides of the embroidery unit. It’s big

and you don’t want anything to obstruct

the path of the embroidery arm when it

starts to stitch out the embroidery.

I need to choose the appropriate hoop

size. My sashings will be 6” finished so I

don’t need to use a wide hoop. I have

three to choose from and ended up using

the 150 x 240. Those numbers represent

the hoop size in millimeters (mm).

42 QUILTsocial | issue 14

Husqvarna Viking Designer EPIC with the

embroidery unit


It’s great to have such a wide variety of

hoop sizes. This is just a small sampling of

the hoops available for the Designer EPIC.

Three of the many different hoops sizes available

for use with the Designer EPIC

You know that I struggle with the metric

system for small measurements.

Once you have picked the hoop size, you

have to select the hoop on the sewing

machine. Thankfully, all the hoops have

the hoop size molded into the frame so

it’s easy to know which one you’re using.

Hoops sizes are molded into the frame of the hoop.

Step 2 - Choose the fabric and thread

There are 150 blocks in this set. This time

it’s not the name of the block that I want

to add to the sashing, but the name

of a known Canadian female that was

selected to represent each block.

I’ll make three separate quilts with the

150 red/white blocks measure 6'' square when finished.

150 blocks. The blocks are very busy

and need a sashing to separate them. I

wanted to keep all three quilts strictly

red and white. I love the clean look of

the red/white combination and did want

to add another color to any of the quilts.

While the colors used in the blocks were

red and white, the fabrics were very

scrappy and it was going to be hard

to find a sashing fabric that worked

with all the blocks. After auditioning

several reds in the quilt store, the fabric

that matched the best was from the

Northcott Toscana collection.

In some cases, the red from the outer

edges of some of the blocks is bleeding

into the sashing, but that’s OK.

Again, I wanted the lettering to be

Auditioning some of the blocks on the red

sashing fabric

subtle so if someone was interested

in reading the names, they could,

but I didn’t want the names to be a

dominant part of the design.

I chose a thread that very closely

matched the sashing fabric. Perhaps a

A red embroidery thread that very closely

matches the sashing fabric.

shade too close?

Step 3 - Prepping the fabric

I used the width of the hoop as a guide

to cut the fabric strips which were cut

from the width of the fabric. The strips

need to be wider than the hoop so once

the fabric is hooped, the edges of the

hoop can hold the fabric in place.

You’ll also need some HeatnBond tear

away stabilizer. I used one layer and cut it

Cut the strips of fabric slightly wider than the hoop.

to the same width as the fabric strips.

I hooped the stabilizer and the fabric

together and tightened the hoop.

There’s a clip on the newer hoops to

tighten them and I miss that on this

hoop. However, I’m happy that the older

hoops still work on the Designer EPIC

so I’m not complaining.

I didn’t cut the length of the strip of fabric

to fit the hoop. I’ll do all the embroidery

with that strip intact and then cut the

sashings apart when I’m done.

The stabilizer and the fabric are hooped together.

QUILTsocial | issue 14

43


Step 4 - Choosing the font

There are seven embroidery fonts in sizes

from 10mm to 80mm to choose from. In

the photo below, you can see the sizes

represented by the number to the right

of the font name.

You need to start out by choosing the

hoop size. In the bottom left, you can

see the 240 x 150 size is selected. This

will set the embroidery edit screen with

the corresponding hoop size so you’re

designing your words exactly as they

will be stitched out. The hoop space

is shown in purple below. You can

customize that color if you choose.

I wanted to keep the lettering as small as

I could so I chose Mesa 12.

I programmed the names into the

Embroidery Edit screen. It’s easy to bring

up the font menu by touching the green

tab with the letter A on it.

Notice that one of the names was too long

for the hoop so I had to make two lines.

You can zoom in if you need very

precise placement, the number of

designs (I have six) and the total stitch

count are all outlined on this screen.

If you’ll do some embroidery, it’s very

important to become very familiar with

all the tools to get the best from your

embroidery machine.

Step 5 - Embroidering the letters

Once I was happy with the placement

and that everything was spelled

correctly, it was time to get to the

actual stitching.

After touching the green GO shown

on the screen above, I get a Welcome

to Embroidery Stitch Out screen. This

is where I can review that I’ve all the

correct accessories in place – the correct

foot and hoop and any other settings

that I might want to change, such as

basting in the hoop (or not), and other

very important options.

It’s like a checklist of some very

important components to successful

embroidery. I love it!

The embroidery font menu which shows the font

name and size

I’m a very visual person and I like to see

the size of the font rather than select it

from a menu on the screen. I have some

of the fonts stitched out which makes

it easy to see what the font looks like in

the various sizes.

When I did the stitch-outs, I used the

font name and the font size as the

wording which makes it very easy to

know which is which. I need to get the

rest of the fonts stitched out and if I were

really good, I’d have them in a nice book.

Stitch out of some of three of the embroidery fonts

Embroidery edit screen

There are loads of other tools in the

Embroidery Edit screen. I remember

having to do all the editing on the

computer, transferring the design

to a FLOPPY disk (OK – that was 20

years ago) and then loading it into the

embroidery machine.

The Embroidery Edit screen is a very

powerful tool and allows you to contour

the letters to a shape, resize, move,

rotate and a whole lot more. There’s

so much that can be done with the

lettering that it’s hard to fit it all in one

magazine feature!

The Welcome to Embroidery Stitch Out screen

Let’s not forget that I need to thread

the machine. I used a red bobbin

weight thread in the bobbin and my red

embroidery thread on top.

44 QUILTsocial | issue 14


The embroidery foot is attached and I have a red

thread for the top and the bobbin.

It’s easy to hit the START/STOP button

on the Function Panel and let the

embroidery machine do all the work.

Notice that the STOP function is

highlighted. You do NOT want that

feature selected when you’re doing

this kind of stitching as the embroidery

machine will stop after each letter.

Which is OK if you wanted to change the

thread color for each letter. But since my

letters will all be the same color, I turned

off the STOP feature and all the letters

stitched one after the other.

Function panel of the Husqvarna Viking Designer EPIC

And soon enough the embroidery

was done. That sound is always music

to my ears. If I happen to be upstairs,

I can always check the app on my

smartphone to see what stage the

embroidery is at. I love that feature.

That’s made possible because the

Designer EPIC is connected to the Wi-Fi. I

know – how crazy is that!

Step 6 - Cut out the sashing pieces

It takes a bit of time for these letters to

be stitched out. Why? Well, the jump

stitch for each letter is hidden on the

back of the work, unlike the method

we used where you could see the

connecting stitches.

It’s amazing and all done with the

touch of the START/STOP button. So if

you’re looking for a cleaner look, this is

the way to go.

WAIT – before you say it, I’ll say it – I’m not so

Sashing has been trimmed to size.

sure that my thread color is the best. I mean

those words are almost an exact match

for the fabric. Since these are the names of

people, they are less recognizable than the

names of quilt blocks.

I may have to use a slightly lighter color

of thread, otherwise, we’ll never be able

to decipher what the words are. Mind

you, the words are easier to read in

person than in the photos.

I slept on it and NO that thread color has

to be changed. If I’m putting in all that

work, those names need to be much

more legible than they were on the

original sample.

This is why it’s important to makes

samples. Just because you think the color

is right, it doesn’t mean the color is right.

I looked through the thread box and

chose two different colors. One red had

a yellow undertone making it an orange

red, the other had a blue undertone,

making a purple-red. I like the ‘orange’

red best.

OK – that was an important call. The

lettering is much more legible and I

tried a cleaner font as well. I think I like

this option although, in person, that

thread is very bright. But from a foot

away from the quilt, it’s probably won’t

be that noticeable.

A much better thread choice

I may end up trying another, slightly

duller color (if I have in my thread box).

Otherwise, I think I’m good with this one.

And it’s that easy to add letters to your

quilt sashing. Imagine the possibilities

for personalizing ANYTHING. It’s also a

way to make your quilts your own! Play

with the different fonts and sizes that are

included with the Designer EPIC. Or if

you’re really ambitious, you can take ANY

font that’s a true font and convert it to a

file that you stitch out on the Designer

EPIC. Imagine the possibilities……

There we have it – another way to get

the lettering on our quilts (or other

items) and it’s so easy to make it happen

with the Husqvarna Viking Designer EPIC.

Embroidery is finished!

Two new colors auditioned on the sashing fabric.

QUILTsocial | issue 14

45


User’s Guide, Quick Help,

JoyOS Advisor: sewing help at your fingertips

The User’s Guide by chapters on the interactive

screen of the Designer EPIC

I’m touching a bit more on some

lettering, but I thought it was equally

important to spend some time showing

you how easy it is to learn the ins and

outs of the Husqvarna Viking Designer

EPIC.

Let’s face it, this sewing and embroidery

machine has a lot of stuff going on. If

you’re familiar with the Husqvarna Viking

sewing machines and/or are somewhat

familiar with machine embroidery

techniques, the learning curve won’t

be that difficult, but if you’re brand

new to Husqvarna Viking or machine

embroidery, learning to operate the

Designer EPIC could be daunting.

The good news is that there are three

extremely useful tools to help you learn

how to use the Designer EPIC.

1 - The User’s Guide

The User’s Guide no longer comes as

a hard copy with the sewing machine.

That’s not a problem as the entire User’s

Guide is available on the interactive

tablet right on the sewing machine. All

the pictures, all the table of contents –

everything is right there at your fingertips.

There are even instructions on HOW to

use the User’s Guide. You gotta love that!

The User’s Guide is available for you to

browse through by chapter as we’re

most familiar with in a hard copy of the

User’s Guide.

However, the topics are also listed in

alphabetical order so if you’re looking

for a specific function or feature, it’s easy

to go through the alphabet tabs to find

what you’re looking for.

When you touch any one of the tabs,

the list is expanded so you can see the

individual topics that start with that letter.

It’s so easy to maneuver through the lists.

One of the alphabet tabs is expanded to show

the list of topics

And if that isn’t enough, you can also

search on the topic/feature/function that

you’re specifically looking for.

The topics in the User’s Guide listed in

alphabetical order

46 QUILTsocial | issue 14

Use the SEARCH box to find a specific topic


It’s great to have this online version of

the User’s Guide right at your fingertips

and not have to remember where you

stored your copy.

The User’s Guide is also available online

as a .pdf document. You can access the

document online where you can view

it on your tablet or computer but you’ll

have to be connected to the internet in

order to view the document. You can also

download the document to your tablet or

computer where you’ll be able to browse

the User’s Guide anywhere even if you’re

not connected to the internet.

Technically, you could print that .pdf

document out if you absolutely wanted

a hard copy, but we’re becoming so

technically savvy these days that almost

nothing you buy comes with a hard

copy of the user’s guide. I’d like to think

that anyone who uses this amazing

sewing machine wouldn’t need a hard

copy guide.

The User’s Guide accessed through the internet

on a tablet

However you access the User’s Guide, it’s

a good idea that you browse through it.

There’s a lot of information in that User’s

Guide, and the folks at Husqvarna didn’t

write it because they had nothing else to

do that day. It was written to make your

life easier. They’ve also made it accessible

for all styles of learning. You don’t want

to touch the Designer EPIC until you

know everything, then read the User’s

Guide from front to back. You want to

dive in and learn each topic as you need

– then read the topics.

However you choose to use the User’s

Guide, I would suggest that you take

one section at a time and preferably

sitting at the sewing machine, go

through it. Identify all the physical parts

of the sewing machine. Then identify

the various functions on each of the

screens. Soon you’ll know all the bits

and pieces and you’ll be well on your

way to becoming an expert on the

Designer EPIC.

I’ve said it before and I’ll keep saying it

until everyone believes me. There’s a

LOT of good information in the manual.

And every time I read the User’s Guide, I

usually learn something.

2 - The Quick Help

Let’s say that you’re sitting at the sewing

machine and there’s a function or button

on the screen and you’ve no idea what it

is or what it does. You can’t even search

through the User’s Guide because you

don’t know what you’re searching for.

Yep – that’s happened to me a lot.

So if you touch the QUESTION MARK in

the top bar and then touch whatever

button/function that you’re puzzled

about, you’ll get a pop-up window that

gives you a brief description. And if you

want more information, there’s usually

a link that you can follow that’ll provide

even more details.

That’s like having an expert teacher right

at your side and guiding you through

the functions of the Designer EPIC.

When I wanted to know more about the

grid lines that were in the “hoop” on the

screen so I could better position my rows

of lettering, I touched the Question Mark

and got more information.

Hey – I learned that I can set those grid

lines to 4 preset metric settings, or 4

preset imperial settings (YEAH!) or I

could create a custom setting for the

grid lines. I didn’t know that before!

Now I’ll remember how those grid lines

work for future!

Using the Quick Help to get information on the

grid lines

I’ve changed the grid lines to ½” spacing.

Now it’s easy to position those lines

of lettering. I’ve also left ½” above and

below each of the lines with an extra ½”

between for wiggle room.

It’s so much easier to do something

when you know what you’re doing.

If I need to position the lettering exactly,

I can use the POSITION functions on the

bottom right to get the lettering just

where I need it to be. It’s also easy to

center these lines of lettering (side by

side) using the Position functions.

I know that I need to become more

familiar with the metric system for

measurements less than 12”. I need to

make that a goal, but it’s a challenge

when we use rulers with inches for all of

the cutting of our projects.

Grid lines are set at ½” which makes the

placement of the lettering much easier (for my

metric challenged brain)

Did you notice that I changed the

purple background to grey? I did find

the purple distracting so I changed it to

orange which was also distracting.

I found the neutral grey was the best

choice, but you can change that up

once a day if you felt like it. There are lots

of colors from which to choose.

QUILTsocial | issue 14

47


The other thing if you were clever

enough to catch it – I forgot to change

the hoop size and the hoop selected is

large – 360 x 240. Some of those lines of

stitching will be too long for my blocks

so they’ll have to be resized or I may

have to revert to two lines of stitching

which will mean the sashing is going to

have to be 1½” wide finished, not 1” as

was my original intention.

I ran out of time to play with it, but I

saved the file to my USB so I can go back

and play with it and once I’m happy,

then I can save it.

You can also download the JoyOS

Advisor to your Smartphone. It’s an app

that’s available in the App store. So if

you happen to be shopping and need

to know what stabilizer to buy, you’ll

have that information with you. The

list of tutorials on sewing, quilting and

embroidery techniques is HUGE.

Within the Knowledge Center is

information on Stabilizers, which is

something that all of us need to know.

There’s a Quick Start Guide if you’re stuck,

some workbook projects and some

sewing instructions.

Options to change the background color of the

“hoop” and the grid lines

3 - The JoyOS Advisor

The third option when searching for

information is called the JoyOS Advisor

which is comprised of four sections. The

Sewing Advisor, the Quilting Advisor, the

Embroidery Advisor, and the Knowledge

Center. All four are filled with excellent

tutorials, videos, projects, and other very

helpful information.

Partial display of embroidery technique tutorials

available in the JoyOS Advisor

Within each of the sections, there are

tutorials and videos that’ll provide more

information on that particular technique.

That’s exciting especially if you’re new to

any of the techniques covered.

Topics covered in the Knowledge Center of the

JoyOS Advisor

I’ve run out of time but I wanted to at least

touch on one more thing about lettering.

Once you have a line of lettering, it’s

a simple process to edit that lettering

and have it placed along different line

shapes rather than just a straight line of

stitching. This would be awesome for

labels. The best part about this – you

don’t have to do any calculating. You

don’t have to manipulate those curves

– you just select the functions that you

want and the embroidery editor will do

all the hard work for you.

Quilting tutorials in the JoyOS Advisor

48 QUILTsocial | issue 14


It doesn’t get any easier than that.

All these information sources do

NOT replace a good class from your

Husqvarna Viking dealer. The class will

give you a good overview of everything

that’s possible, but it will be difficult to

remember it all.

These amazing reference tools will help

you when there’s no one to guide you

at home.

The key to remember is to search

through or read through the information

in bits. Sit at the sewing machine. Touch

the buttons, see what happens when

you push all the buttons. You can’t really

hurt anything and all you have to gain is

knowledge.

I’ve barely touched the surface of the

options available on the Husqvarna

Viking Designer EPIC. There’s truly a

whole lot more to explore and I hope to

touch on more options.

Changing the text to print on a curved shape is as

easy as selecting the shape from the popup menu

6 steps to creating an embroidered

quilt label using the Designer EPIC

Before I get started, I thought I’d share

this story with you. I love technology

and for the most part, I’m pretty good

with it. However, I was struggling to

download the User’s Guide to my tablet.

I did what I was supposed to do, but

nothing happened. So I booked a service

appointment (thankfully on the phone)

with the tablet manufacturer. They called

me on time. While the customer service

rep was logging the call, I thought I

would try to download the User’s Guide

one more time.

You guessed it – in a matter of seconds

that file downloaded into the tablet.

But now I have the User’s Guide on my

tablet and I can reference it wherever or

whenever I want. I’m excited about that.

I’ll make a quilt label using the

embroidery functions of the Designer

EPIC. I don’t normally make a quilt label

until a quilt is finished and there was no

quilt that was in need of a label. OK – I’m

lying about that. I decided to make a

label for one of the quilts that I made the

sashings for earlier.

There’s a story about this label that’ll give

you a smile.

Step 1 - What info goes on the label

I started off with a piece of paper so I

could make notes of what I wanted to

include on the label. Not too much, but

enough to let people know about the

quilt when I’m not around to tell them.

I started off with the name of the quilt,

the designer’s name, a few lines about

where and when the quilt was started

and who made it, where and when.

Once all that information was noted, I

went to the Embroidery Edit screen. I

started off by choosing the hoop size

that I wanted to use – 200 x 200.

Then I added in the lines of lettering.

There are 9 lines in total. At this point, I

didn’t really care how they looked on the

edit screen. I just wanted the spelling to

be correct and all the words included.

Step 2 - Position the rows of letters

Next up was to position the rows of

lettering into a nice looking label.

Since I still have the grid lines set at ½”,

it’s easy for me to visualize how they’ll

look when the label is stitched out.

Remember that you can adjust the size

of those grid lines depending on what

you’re making.

The rows of lettering have been entered into the

Embroidery Edit screen

QUILTsocial | issue 14

49


Step 3 - One final check

Before you hit GO, it’s not a bad idea

to double check the spelling and the

placement to ensure that everything

is exactly as you want it to be. It would

be bad to stitch out the label and spell

your name or some other vital piece of

information incorrectly.

I also zoomed right out so that I could

see the label as it would appear stitched

out (smaller but you get the idea).

Notice that I played around with the text

shaping tool. It was easy and if I wasn’t

sure of something, I looked it up in the

User’s Guide and then I wasn’t afraid to

play around on the screen.

Using the grid lines and the positioning tools to

place the rows of lettering

I was struggling a little bit with the

positioning so I zoomed in to make

it easier to see where the lines were

positioned. I also used the positioning

tools that are situated in the bottom

right and also the big positioning wheel

in the center of the bottom section of

the screen. That made it much easier to

position everything. I love the flexibility of

the tools and the Embroidery Edit screen.

The label has been edited and ready to stitch out

Step 4 - Hoop the fabric

I used the 200 x 200 hoop as a guide as

to how large to cut my piece of fabric for

the label. It’s important that the fabric be

larger than the hoop so the edges of the

hoop can support the fabric.

I cut a piece of stitch n tear stabilizer that

was large enough to fit the hoop and

hooped both the fabric and the stabilizer.

The label has been edited and ready to stitch out

Oh, notice in the picture above, the

spring mechanism on the new hoops.

That system is so much easier to close the

hoops with than the screw from the one

I used the other day. I’m not complaining

as the old hoops work on the new

embroidery machines and that’s a good

thing. I use this hoop a LOT. I love it.

Step 5 - Choose the thread color

Choosing a thread color won’t be as

hard as it was earlier in the week. This

time, I want that thread to have as much

contrast as possible. I think it’s easy to

see that brown thread on that gold fabric

will stand out. I used a brown bobbin

weight thread in the bobbin.

Zoomed in to better view the rows of lettering on

the grid lines

50 QUILTsocial | issue 14

High contrast thread to show up on the quilt label


When I was in the Embroidery Edit

screen, I chose the 200 x 200 hoop.

When I enter the Embroidery Stitch

screen, the Designer EPIC asks me

to attach the 200 x 200 hoop. It’s

just another way of confirming that

everything matches.

This saves you a lot of time when the

embroidery is complete. There’s no need

to trim threads as the Designer EPIC did

all that fiddly work for you. This option

makes the final product look much

neater as well.

Step 6 - Have a cup of tea while the

label is stitched out

If you have your Smartphone and

the Designer EPIC signed into

mySewnet, you can use the app on your

Smartphone to monitor the embroidery

stitch out progress.

In the photo below, you can see that

the Color Block List on the embroidery

machine screen and my Smartphone

match. As long as you’re both connected

to the internet, you’ll see the status

of the embroidery stitch out. This is

fabulous – love this technology.

The stitch out is just started

Before I left the embroidery machine,

you can see the monitor has moved

to the second letter on the first row. In

case you’re wondering what all those

numbers mean; the first number is the

row of stitching and the second number

is the sequence of the specific letters.

Pop up message to attach the chosen hoop size

Because my label consists of lettering

that will be the same color, it’s important

that I turn off the STOP function. I don’t

want the embroidery machine to require

attention after every letter. There are

options to choose from to make the

machine at certain points of the design

(thread color changes). In my case, all the

letters are the same color of thread so I’ll

let it stitch out with no intervention.

Function panel with the STOP function lit up

If you remember from the other day,

you get a checklist when entering the

Embroidery Stitch Out screen. One of

the options is Thread Cut Options. You

can turn the Automatic Thread Cutter

and Automatic Jump Stitch Trim on

or off. You’ll notice in the final label

that each letter is separate. There’s no

thread connecting one to the other. The

Automatic Jump Stitch Trim was selected

and that means that all the thread ends

are pulled to the back of the work.

The mySewMonitor app shows me the progress

of the stitch out

In this photo, I’ve just started the

embroidery - and I went for lunch.

The embroidery has started and moved onto the

second letter which is shown on the app and the

embroidery screen

As I was enjoying my lunch, I got a

notification on the Smartphone app to

check the upper thread. I ran down to

the studio and fixed the problem and

back up to finish my sandwich. No need

to hang my head over the railing to see

if I could still hear the machine working. I

LOVE that app!

QUILTsocial | issue 14

51


While I could have checked my phone

for the status of the label, I wanted to get

a picture of the label in progress. You can

see that it’s almost done.

Here’s the final label. I have to take

it out of the hoop and tidy up the

spaces between the words. A small task

compared to having to remove all the

jump stitches which the Designer EPIC

did automatically!

I love how the label turned out.

The label is almost finished

Then I got another notification on my

phone. The embroidery is FINISHED!

An alert on mySewMonitor app to check the thread

While we’re waiting for the Designer EPIC

to finish stitching my label, I thought

I’d share with you a couple of other

labels. I didn’t make either of them, but

hopefully, it’ll give you a couple of ideas

for quilt labels.

They can be fancy like this first one which

includes a motif as well as the writing.

Quilt label with an embroidered motif to match

the fish on the quilt front

Or they can be simple like this one

which was appliqued to the backing

before the quilt was quilted.

'Embroidery is finished' notification on

mySewMonitor app

I ran downstairs to see that in fact the

label was finished. That didn’t take as

long as I had thought it would.

The label is FINISHED

The final quilt label

Did you read the label? Did you notice

the dates? There is NO way that I’ll get

that quilt finished this year so I put on

the label that it was (will be) finished in

2019. I’ve given myself a bit of breathing

space but how much do you want to

bet that come December of 2019, I’ll be

madly trying to finish that quilt? NO – I

won’t let that happen.

There you have it – a beautiful label that

didn’t take long to make. The hardest

part was deciding what to put on it.

The Husqvarna Viking Designer EPIC is an

awesome sewing/embroidery machine.

The flexibility, the technology, and all the

features make our sewing, embroidery

and quilting needs possible. My head is

spinning with the possibilities.

I hope you enjoyed the feature and that

you found some inspiration.

Quilt labels do not need to be elaborate.

52 QUILTsocial | issue 14

Elaine Theriault

crazyquilteronabike.blogspot.ca


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QUILTsocial bloggers

in this issue

Julie Plotniko

juliesquiltclass.blogspot.com

Julie Plotniko is a quilting teacher,

blogger and designer from Vancouver

Island in British Columbia, Canada.

Teaching for almost 40 years, recent

credits include Quilt Canada 2016 and

2017, many quilt guilds and groups

throughout Canada and CreativFestival

Sewing and Craft Shows in Victoria,

Abbotsford and Toronto. When not on

the road Julie works and teaches at Snip

& Stitch Sewing Center in Nanaimo, BC.

Her favorite things include free motion

quilting (standard bed and mid-arm

machines), precision piecing, scrap

quilting, machine embroidery, blogging,

designing and of course teaching.

Julie believes that to see a student go

from tentative beginnings to having

confidence in themselves and their

abilities is one of the greatest rewards

that life has to offer.

Jean Boyd

patternsbyjeanboyd.com

Jean has been designing and publishing

patterns since 1997. Her work has been

published in several magazines across

North America. Jean holds a Fiber

Arts Certificate in quilting and has

taught extensively throughout Canada,

including six national Quilt Canada

conferences. She was named "Canadian

Teacher of the Year" in 2003 by the

Canadian Quilters Association and has

won numerous awards for her quilts.

Elaine Theriault

crazyquilteronabike.blogspot.ca

Elaine made her first quilt at the

tender age of 13. The urge to quilt

resurfaced when her daughter moved

from a crib. The rest is history – she

now teaches several days a week,

makes quilts on commission and

quilts for others on the long-arm.

QUILTsocial | issue 14

57


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Hardanger embroidery charts and kits. Designs

feature contemporary adaptations of this traditional

cutwork embroidery from Norway. Shop online

at etsy.com/shop/HardangerHouse. Some digital

downloads available.

Haus of Stitches

626 Main Street, Humboldt, SK S0K 2A0

306.682.0772 or toll-free 1.800.344.6024

hausofstitches.ca

Our one of a kind store offers everything you need

for sewing, quilting, knitting, rug hooking and

needlework. Authorized dealers for Janome and Elna.

Heartfelt Fibre Arts

42 Industrial St, Toronto, ON M4G 1Y9

647.920.3616 heartfeltfibrearts.com

info@hearftfeltfibrearts.com

Canadian Fibre Arts supply store specializing in

high-quality, unique fibre and tools for all of your

knitting, felting, rug hooking and stitching needs.

Impressions Embroidery & Engraving

#8-449 Mayor Magrath Dr S, Lethbridge, AB T1J 3L8

403.942.3934 impressionslethbridge.ca

impressions22@shaw.ca

Our shop does embroidery and laser engraving.

Laser engraving is a beautiful process for fabric,

as nothing cuts cleaner and more precisely than a

laser. We now carry a nice array of fabric as well to

compliment the abilities of the laser.

Kelly's Creative Sewing

804 Main St, Dartmouth, NS B2W 3V1

902.435.7380 kellyscreativesewing.ca

kellyscreativesewing@gmail.com

We offer sales and on-site service of high-end

domestic embroidery, sewing machines and sergers,

as well as a variety of educational programs.

Needles & Knits

15040 Yonge St, Aurora, ON L4G 1M4

905.713.2066 needlesandknits.com

Fabulous selection of yarns. Extremely

knowledgable and expert help. Cozy and friendly

atmosphere. Classes. Guild night every first Tuesday

of the month. Tea with Tove, the owner, every

Thursday from 6-8pm.

Needleworker's Delight / Silkweaver Fabrics

Plaza K 181 Route 1 South, Metuchen, NJ 08840

732-388-4545 needleworkersdelight.com

info@needleworkersdelight.com

Standard & specialty Zweigart Fabrics & canvas,

hand-dyed fabrics, floss, fibers, towels, tableware,

leaflets/designs, painted canvases, notions, tools,

baby items, home decor, and so much more!

Pine Ridge Knit & Sew

17477 Hwy 2 PO Box 68, Trenton, ON K8V 5R1

613.392.1422 pineridgeknitsew.com

yvette@pineridgeknitsew.com

We have knitting machines by Artisan and Silver

Reed, embroidery machines by Husqvarna/Viking

& White. Sewing notions and supplies, books and

software. Hands-on lessons and classes. Wide variety

of yarns, threads, dress and pant zippers.

Serenity Knits

525 Brooker Ridge #102, Newmarket, ON L3X 2M2

905.710.3283 serenityknits.ca

info@serenityknits.ca

We offer a wide selection of high quality yarns as well

as needles, hooks, patterns and notions. We also offer

a large variety of classes from beginner to the more

advanced.

Sew Fancy Inc.

Guelph, ON

519.824.4127 sewfancy.com

sales@sewfancy.com

Your Premier Canadian Source for Specialty Sewing

Supplies including Smocking, Heirloom Sewing,

Goldwork, Silk Ribbon Embroidery, Needle Tatting,

Swarovski Crystals, Sashiko, Quilting and more. Visit

the website for the latest in sewing supplies.

Sew Inspired

375 Daniel St S, Arnprior, ON K7S 3K6

613.623.0500 sewinspired.ca

info@sewinspired.ca

Your Ottawa Valley PFAFF® Authorized Dealer. We

have a large supply of quilting & sewing supplies,

knitting supplies, as well as in stock PFAFF® sewing

machines. We also have a listing of sewing and

quilting classes.

Sew With Vision

480 Parkland Dr, Halifax, NS B3S 1P9

902.479.2227 sewwithvision.net

Authorized PFAFF, HUSQVARNA VIKING, and SINGER

dealer and service provider offering an extensive line

of sewing, embroidery and serger machines, as well

as long-arm quilting systems.

That Sewing Place

16610 Bayview Ave #10, Newmarket, ON L3X 1X3

905.715.7725 thatsewingplace.ca

jaret&liana@thatsewingplace.ca

Introducing That Sewing Place as your sewing

source and Authorized Dealers for Bernina and

Brother machines. Jaret & Liana focus on placing

your sewing needs first, providing outstanding

support, service, and training.

The Quilt Store / Evelyn's Sewing Centre

17817 Leslie St, Unit 40, Newmarket, ON L3Y 8C6

905.853.7001 or toll-free 1.888.853.7001

The Quilt Store West

695 Plains Rd E, Unit 6, Burlington, ON L7T 2E8

905.631.0894 or toll-free 1.877.367.7070

thequiltstore.ca

Now with 2 locations to serve you, we are your Quilt

Store Destination! The staff here at The Quilt Store

is always on hand to provide Quilt Wisdom, Quilt

Inspiration and most of all we pride ourselves as the

place to make... All Your Quilt Dreams Come True!

The Stitcher's Muse

99 Commercial Street, Nanaimo, BC V9R 5G3

250.591.6873 thestitchersmuse.com

info@thestitchersmuse.com

A divine little shop with supplies for all your hand

stitching needs! Friendly, knowledgeable, helpful

staff. Cross stitch, canvaswork, needlepoint,

embroidery, counted thread, lace making and

more. Books, patterns, fabric, threads, tools.

The Yarn Guy

15 Gower St, Toronto, ON M4B 1E3

416.752.1828 or toll-free 1.800.836.6536

theyarnguy.com info@sewknit.ca

See us on Facebook, follow us on Twitter!

Knitting machines, sewing machines, repairs, parts

for Passap, Studio, Singer, Silver Reed, Superba,

White. Sewing notions and supplies, books, ball

yarns, coned yarns, TAMM yarns, Paton's yarns,

Bernat yarns, Phentex yarns, Bernat kits & crafts.

Ultimate Sewing Centre

191 Bloor St East, Oshawa, ON L1H 3M3

905.436.9193 ultimatesewing.com

ultimatesewing@bellnet.ca

For all your sewing needs be sure to call Durham’s

largest one stop shop: Janome and Elna Sewing

Machines, Sergers, & Embroidery machines,

over 3000 bolts of first quality cottons, Floriani

Embroidery supplies, the latest notions, books, &

patterns, year round classes, and so much more!

Upper Canada Quiltworks

PO Box 64, Brockville, ON K6V 5T7

613.345.3956 Fax: 613.342.3327

uppercanadaquiltworks.com

Visit us online for a wide selection quilt patterns

and books. Techniques include felted wool, fusible

appliqué, punchneedle, rag quilting and printing

photos on fabric.

58 QUILTsocial | issue 14


Take your projects from

pattern to perfection

If it’s your dream to create breathtaking quilts, the Innov-ís BQ3050

is the sewing and quilting machine to make it happen.

BQ3050

Designed for the expert quilter!

Sew Straight Laser Vision Guide helps

you sew straight lines when quilting,

piecing, pin tucking and more.

Automatic Height Adjuster (AHA ® )

delivers consistent stitch quality on

different fabric thicknesses.

5” x 11.25” Workspace

comfortably accommodates

large quilts and big projects.

Enjoy precision and quality with the Quilter’s Accessory Bundle – included with the purchase of every BQ3050 machine

• Dual Feed Open Toe Foot

• Dual Feed Stitch-in-the-ditch Foot

• Dual Feed 1/4” Quilting Guide Foot

• Dual Feed Quilting Guide

• Dual Feed Couching Foot

• 2-spool Thread Stand

Visit an authorized Brother dealer today to find out more!

Photos are for illustration purposes only. Brother and its logo are trademarks of Brother Industries, Ltd., Japan. All specifications are subject to change without notice. All registered trademarks referenced herein are the property of their respective companies.

©2019 Brother International Corporation (Canada) Ltd. 1, rue Hôtel de Ville, Dollard-des-Ormeaux, Québec, H9B 3H6. 04/2019-2019-532

59


A NEEDLE PULLING THREAD

QUILT SEW KNIT CROCHET CROSS STITCH EMBROIDER HOOK RUGS

A NEEDLE PULLING THREAD

QUILT SEW KNIT CROCHET CROSS STITCH EMBROIDER HOOK RUGS

A Needle Pulling Thread 2019 Issue 50

30

Thoughtful Soles

Wool Stew Socks

Matchstick quilting

Diamond Petals

fabric manipulation

Repurposing

textiles

Cherish, Reuse, Recycle

Make

& Be

Happy

56

Visit www.ANPTmag.com to order!

82 76

QUILTsocial | issue 14

Get quilting!

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