Ferment Issue 42 // Peakender

jamesbeer52

FERMENTMAGAZINE.COM | ISSUE 42

ADVENTURES IN THE GLOBAL CRAFT ALCOHOL MOVEMENT

IT’S TIME FOR THORNBRIDGE’S

QUINTESSENTAL SUMMER FESTIVAL

PEAKENDER MAP AND LISTINGS STARTING PAGE 90

42>

9

772397 696005


ewery • taproom • beer hall

9th — 11th

August 2019

Tobacco Dock

London

@londonlcbf

londoncraftbeerfestival.co.uk

Barrier Brewing Co.

BrewDog OverWorks

Broaden & Build

Burning Sky

Cascade

Cloudwater

Collective Arts

CR/AK

Dugges

Evil Twin

Finback

Half Acre

Interboro

KCBC

The Kernel

Cerveja Letra

Mahr’s Brau

Mikkeller

Põhjala

Stillwater Artisanal

Track

Verdant Brewing

Wild Beer Co.

Wylam

and 55+ more world-class breweries

+ Food Village from The Palomar,

Hoppers, Berber & Q, Bun House,

Pitt Cue & more

+ Killer DJ sets from Friendly Fires,

Kaiser Chiefs, Alexis Taylor (Hot Chip),

Zombie Disco Squad, Ultimate Power

& more

Brew York is a city centre brewery with a Taproom and Beer Hall boasting 60 lines of cask and keg within the York city walls.

Already

confirmed,

with more

to come:

KEGFEST 2019

23 rd -25 th AUGUST

Featuring a huge selection of kegged beer, including some exclusive pours, plus ‘Meet the Brewer’

events with breweries around the globe. Live music and a whole host of street food vendors round it off

making it THE place to be in August!

More to be announced soon so keep checking the website and social media.

Tickets only £3 in advance - https://brewyork.co.uk/event/kegfest19

Craft Brewery, Tap Room & Beer Hall, Unit 6,

Enterprise Complex, Walmgate, York YO1 9TT

OPEN TUESDAY - SUNDAY MIDDAY TILL LATE

www.brewyork.co.uk BrewYorkBeer @BrewYorkBeer brewyorkbeer


EDITOR

Richard Croasdale

LEAD DESIGNER

(Maternity Leave)

Ashley Johnston

DESIGNER

Adele Juraža

Editor’s

NOTE

@fermenthq

@fermentmagazine

Contributions, comments, rants:

richard@beer52.com

ADVERTISING

To discuss how Ferment

could work with your brand, request

a media pack or book an advert,

contact: matthew@beer52.com

nicky@beer52.com

COVER ILLUSTRATION

Katie Lukes

www.katielukes.com

PUBLISHED BY:

Ferment & Beer52,

Floor 2,

26 Howe Street,

Edinburgh,

EH3 6TG

It’s hard to believe Thornbridge’s Peakender festival is

only in its sixth year, it’s such an institution. Yet here we

are. The festival has an awesome lineup again this year,

and we’re happy to bring a flavour of the fun to this month’s

Beer52 box.

As well as catching up with Thornbridge and the other

featured breweries, we’re out and about in Sheffield, meeting

members, hanging about in bars and chatting with snooker

legend Jimmy White at The Crucible itself.

Hollie Stevens asks whether the homebrew is the innocent

and wholesome hobby it once was, while Katie Taylor spends

a frankly unnerving few days drinking at the Isle of Mann TT

races. Melissa Cole takes a potshot at cask ale, which I’m

confident won’t annoy anyone, and Anthony Gladman talks

to the brewers who have discovered a love of distilling and

vice versa.

I really hope the rain stays off for Peakender again this year,

not least because I’ll be there. Buy me a drink, send me your

festival pics and notify my next of kin at ferment@beer52.com

or @fermenthq.

Richard

Thornbridge, p.8

This issue of Ferment was first

printed in July 2019 in Poland, by Elanders.

All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole

or in part without written permission is

strictly prohibited. All prices are correct at

the time of going to press but are subject

to change.

Got a Beer52 customer service query? Call 0131 285 2684,

email support@beer52.com, or on social media @beer52hq


CONTRIBUTORS

MATTHEW CURTIS

WRITER & PHOTOGRAPHER

Matthew Curtis is an award-winning

freelance beer writer, photographer

and podcaster based in London, UK.

@totalcurtis

LOUISE CRANE

WRITER

Louise Crane is a freelance science and

drinks writer, and a Spirits Advisor at The

Whisky Exchange in London. She holds a

Masters degree in History of Medicine and

is a trained ballet dancer. Oddly.

CONTENTS

KATIE MATHER

WRITER

Katie is a beer blogger and part-time

goth who loves writing essays about pub

culture. She’s also a monthly guest on BBC

Radio Lancashire where she speaks about

local beer. @Shinybiscuit

ALEX PAGANELLI

CHEF & FOOD

PHOTOGRAPHER

As founder of Dead Hungry, Alexandre has

been creating incredible recipes for Ferment.

deadhungry.co

MELISSA COLE

WRITER

ANTHONY GLADMAN

WRITER

Certified Cicerone® and beer & food writer,

Melissa Cole is one of the UK’s leading beer

experts. Author of Let Me Tell You About Beer,

international beer judge, collaboration brewer,

sommALEier and regular festival presenter.

Anthony is an accredited Beer Sommelier

and freelance writer based in London.

When he’s not writing about beer he runs

tastings and beer tours. @agladman

8: thornbridge

Beers in the sunshine with some of the nicest folk in

the business.

14: Magic rock

Thank goodness, they’ve still got the magic.

18: harbour

A little taste of Cornwall in a can.

24: a night out with troost

Beer52 parties with the Amsterdam craft pioneers.

30: members bottle share

We sample some great beers and eat some great

pizza at the Head of Steam, Sheffield.

34: sheffield city guide

Where you need to go, what you need to

drink. With extra steel museum.

40: homebrewing

Do all homebrewers secretly want to be

James Watt, asks Hollie Stevens.

44: beyond the lyne arm

Brewing is just distilling for people who

don’t want to wait for their booze. Discuss.

58: the isle of man tt

Katie Mather is in her element: extremely

tense, drinking with bikers in the rain.

80: Beer guide

What’s in this month’s Beer52

box?

90: festival listing

All you need to know about

Peakender 2019.

By Craig Collins @CraigComicsEtc & Mark Brady @HolidayPirate


THORNBRIDGE

Richard Croasdale enjoys a pint in the sunshine with the team

behind one of his favourite breweries

Cracking beer and lovely people,

spitting distance from the

Peak District and Sheffield; it’s

probably fair to say that we’ll take

any excuse to visit Thornbridge. So

as soon as I heard we’d be basing an

entire Beer52 box around its annual

Peakender festival, I was straight in the

car, ensuring room in the boot for a

couple of carry-out cases.

For those not already familiar,

Thornbridge was established in the

grounds of the grand old house with

which it shares its name. While the

production brewery has since moved

to more spacious accommodation a

short distance away, the original kit

is still up and running, and features

from the house can be found on every

bottle and can it produces. Since

its garden shed foundation back in

2005, Thornbridge has deservedly

gone on to become one of the UK’s

most respected and successful craft

breweries, whose flagship beers can

be found all over the country.

It’s never been great at sitting still

though, and the past couple of years

have seen a lot of change, including

more expansion, new breakaway beers

and a massive investment in (shock

horror) a state-of-the-art canning line.

It’s a glorious day in Bakewell when I

meet with head brewer Rob Lovatt and

co-founder Simon Webster, so we pull

up a couple of benches outside the

brewery taproom, keg-laden forklift

trucks trundling industriously past us

in the sunshine.

I opt for a cold half of Green

Mountain, Thornbridge’s big, juicy New

England IPA. This beer has been one

of Thornbridge’s big success stories

over the past 12 months, overtaking

long-standing favourites to become

its second-best selling beer. It really

is excellent too – juicy without being

too sweet, with just the right amount

of bitterness in the finish to make it

sessionable.

“It’s a beer I was reluctant to brew,

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THORNBRIDGE

because I felt it was a faddy style and

saw a lot of NEIPAs being brewed

badly, particularly in the UK. I also had

concerns about shelf life; you never

want your beers to be sitting about,

but if it tastes awful after a few months

that’s just unacceptable. So I insisted

on a six-month shelf life and the whole

team put our heads together to come

up with a technique that allowed us

to be completely consistent. We got

there in the end and I’ve come around

to be really proud of it.”

“We’re 15 years next year, which is

nothing really, but in brewers’ years

it’s about 138. So we always have the

classics, but we also need to stay

relevant, for our own interest as much

as for commercial reasons. So if there’s

a beer style that the brewers are

drinking, that we see people enjoying

out and about, then Rob and his team

generally have a go and will generally

nail it. That’s how Green Mountain

came about.”

The launch of Green Mountain

coincided with Thornbridge’s new

£1.5m packaging line coming online,

kicking off one of the most significant

changes in its history. It’s been a

roaring success with Jaipur in a

can almost instantly becoming the

brewery’s best-selling product. Given

the obvious appetite for cans, does

Simon feel he was a little late to the

party?

“We’re late movers and take our time

– this wasn’t something we wanted to

move into quickly, because we wanted

to be capitalised enough to buy the

best canning line available, to protect

the beer. Because that’s what we do;

the beer comes first. It’s been great

though, people are really happy to be

drinking Jaipur in cans, even though

it’s been in bottles for the past 10

years!”

For every Jaipur, Green Mountain

and Lukas though, there is what

Simon describes as the ‘long tail’

of smaller batch brews. In fact,

while Thornbridge’s four top beers

account for about 60% of its volume,

the remaining 40% will be split

between around 15 different beers,

encompassing the traditional and

wildly experimental.

One brew that’s grabbed a lot of

attention lately is Necessary Evil,

originally brewed for the Firestone

Walker invitational and inspired by

that brewery’s Parabola stout. A 13%

bourbon barrel-aged imperial stout,

it’s Rob’s first stab at a big black beer,

and as a big fan of the style my opinion

is that he’s absolutely smashed it. The

bourbon comes through in vanilla and

coconut notes, but without the treacle

sweetness you sometimes find in barrel

aged stouts, and it wears its high ABV

very well.

Simon Webster and Rob Lovatt

Naturally, this being Thornbridge,

it was launched in May. “We like to

launch our beers when people least

want them,” jokes Rob. There’s actually

only a handful of the 9000 bottles left.

The taproom has moved since I was

last here, and is set to move again at

the start of next year, into a purposebuilt

space for 300 people, complete

with kitchen. This will accommodate

the fact that the brewery itself is

becoming a real destination for beer

lovers, despite being a little way out

of town.

This is undoubtedly in part thanks

to the ever-growing popularity of

Thornbridge’s Peakender festival

(where you may very well be reading

this magazine, in which case we hope

you’re having a ball). Now in its sixth

year, Peakender has quickly become

a permanent fixture in the UK beer

calendar; like Fynefest and Beavertown

Extravaganza, it feels like it’s been

around for ever.

As has been the case for the past

couple of years, Peakender is taking

place at the Bakewell Showground,

and features more than 100 beers

from 17 breweries, with a comedy tent,

food trucks and talks from the likes

of Firestone Walker’s Matt Brynildson

and Emma Inch. This year will also

include a ‘fringe’ event, spread across

Thornbridge’s pubs, where even more

breweries will showcase their wares.

“The growth of beer festivals in

the past two years has just been

incredible. I think people are seeing

them as a fun alternative to music

festivals, which are expensive and the

beer tends to be pretty terrible. A lot

of people say ‘I just don’t want to put

myself through that any more’,” says

Rob.

Simon continues: “There’s a lot

of young people that don’t realise

it wasn’t always like this, where you

could stand in a field with a hundred

different beers! Generally, the

explosion in the last ten years has

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THORNBRIDGE

been phenomenal. You expect to have

decent beers wherever you go now,

or at least to have choice. Go back 20

years, you were lucky to have three

beers to choose from.”

While there’s undeniably a lot of

choice on offer, Peakender is and has

always been a pretty relaxed affair in

beer terms. It’s more about enjoying

a brew in the sunshine with family

and friends than hammering untappd

with 50ml samples until you can’t feel

your legs. If you want to stick to Jaipur

all day, that’s absolutely fine with

Simon.

Being family and community

oriented in this way has always been

a key part of Thornbridge’s ethos,

and can be seen clearly in its eight

pubs throughout Sheffield. Most of

these were existing pubs that the

brewery took over and built up for the

community, as Simon explains.

“Yep, eight pubs, and none are more

than a £7 taxi ride from my house,” he

jokes. “It’s our beers, but they’re not

craft beer bars, they’re community

pubs. The Greystones was one of the

first – it was about to close, so it gave

it back to community. It’s in a nice area,

but the pub had a bad reputation.

People ran past it. So taking it on was

a bit of a gamble, and people thought

I was mad. But my thinking was that,

if it was a cleared site, you’d build a

pub there… There’s some great pubs in

the suburbs – it’s not all about the city

centre.”

Dedicated to the communities it

calls home, but also on a mission to

get its delicious beers into hands

far and wide, Thornbridge keeps on

growing while keeping its heart firmly

in the right place. I don’t know what

fresh excitement the next couple of

years might hold, but I do know I’ll be

at Peakender, looking for clues. And

probably drinking Jaipur in the rain.

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Now that’s

MAGIC

Richard Croasdale catches up with Magic Rock’s

Richard Burhouse, on experimentation, growing

pains, and that sale to Lion

PHOTOS: Sam Needham

Magic Rock was one of the first

UK breweries to experience

the kind of hype and cult

adoration that was more common

in the US, and – unlike some of its

contemporaries – has managed to

retain a special place in the heart of

many fans. It’s also become one of the

few properly credible craft breweries

to achieve real mainstream success

for its eye-catchingly designed core

range. We asked Founder and CEO

Richard Burhouse how Magic Rock

has managed to walk that delicate line

between integrity and commercial

savvy.

“Well I wouldn’t say we’re quite a

household name yet, but in terms of a

‘formula’ I think we’ve tried to stay true

to what we want from our beer: flavour,

and above all drinkability,” he says.

“Obviously we’re influenced by the

wider beer landscape, but I think we

always try and put our spin on things.

We don’t want to necessarily be the

hoppiest or weirdest, we want to be the

most drinkable, while still packing in

the flavour. Someone ordering ‘another’

of our beers is the biggest compliment

they can give us.”

Like any successful brewery, Magic

Rock’s story involves a never-ending

succession of capacity upgrades, each

seeming wildly ambitious at the time,

but soon bursting at the seams as

the brewery’s reach and popularity

grew. Aside from this obvious physical

growth though, Magic Rock has evolved

in its focus and outlook, always looking

ahead to how it could stay relevant and

competitive in an increasingly tight and

professional market.

“We’ve had to evolve to the market

in some ways, for example with the

re-brand we went through last year

with the core cans. Beer-wise we’re still

making the same core beers we started

out making in 2011, but we’re always

looking for ways to make them more

consistent and trustworthy. Big steps

for me were the centrifuge we bought

in 2016, which improved the profile

of the beers no-end and the canning

line we installed in 2018, which gives

us market leading packaged oxygen

levels meaning our beers stay fresher

for longer. More recently we now have

a full time Lab/QC technician and

our planned expansion will introduce

big improvements to brewing quality

as well as our sensory and quality

control.”

One of the most common gripes

among experimental brewers suddenly

dealing with huge production demand

is that their attention is split, forcing

them to either focus on core quality or

pleasing the novelty hunters. This is

definitely something Richard has had

to wrestle with, and he recognises that

some fans’ expectation that Magic Rock

would continue pumping out one wild

new beer after another – which, after

all, is currently a big part of its brand –

could easily detract from what he sees

as more important priorities.

We always try and put

our spin on things

Richard says: “I don’t want us to

be making 50 new beers on the big

kit every year in 10 years; for me

that’s not what good beer is about.

What we want to do is supplement

core beer sales with interesting and

innovative products which advance our

capabilities and keep us interested.

To my mind, our best work should

always be our core beers, the ones

we’ve refined and perfected. The next

expansion will see us adding a smaller

pilot kit which will allow our brewers

to stretch their creative wings without

impacting negatively on our core

output.”

The UK scene has undeniably

changed a great deal since Magic Rock

first fired up its brewhouse in 2011, and

Richard admits to being somewhat

surprised that “the whole craft thing”

has taken off in the way it has. While

he still believes there’s room in the

market for new breweries to carve

their own path and achieve the kind of

success that Magic Rock has, he also

feels the barriers to entry have become

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higher, along with the level of skill,

originality and ultimately investment

needed to start up and get noticed.

“I’d compare what will now be

necessary for a brewery start up, to

opening a new restaurant. There’s

always room for new food places but

you need to be original and offer

something different to the market

if you want to take the place of an

existing operator. I think starting a

craft brewery and particularly starting

a craft brewery with the intention of

scaling it up to a bigger size will be like

this going forward,” he says.

When we’re talking about market

clout though, the elephant in the room

(or other big game, at least) is clearly

Magic Rock’s sale earlier this year to

the South African drinks giant Lion.

One of several such buy-outs of mature

UK craft breweries over the past 12

months or so, it was clearly a bold

move on Richard’s part, and he freely

concedes it was “the toughest call” he’d

had to make for the business.

The support locally

has been fantastic

and the taproom has

never been busier

“I’m satisfied that it was the right

decision though,” he says confidently.

“We’re approaching capacity at the

current site and it was clear that the

next expansion would necessitate a

very considerable level of risk both

to myself and my family, but also to

the business and its employees and

shareholders. I have zero experience

of growing businesses and was

increasingly feeling a weight of

responsibility for the long-term success

of Magic Rock and the wellbeing of our

45+ employees.

“So when someone like Lion, with

expertise and experience in growing

breweries, comes along and offers to

help you with that risk, it’s an attractive

proposition. From a culture and

spirit point of view, maintaining and

investing in production at our current

site in Huddersfield was key to me.

Towns like this are struggling, as the

bigger cities are invested in more, and

bringing investment to my home town

was essential. Lion were completely on

board and have a great track record in

this regard, and so far so good!”

There has inevitably been some

backlash from the wider craft

community, but not on the same scale

as for other brewers who have taken a

similar path. There’s definitely a sense

that people are still rooting for Magic

Rock eight years after its founding, and

are genuinely pleased for its success.

“The support locally has been

fantastic and the taproom has never

been busier,” continues Richard. “As a

business, we are still the same people

and I feel a renewed resolve after the

last few months to make us the best we

possibly can be. We are adding some

fantastic new employees and I know it’s

a cliché but people should judge us on

the quality of our beer, which is only

going to improve.”

On this front, the next couple of

years are shaping up to be very exciting

for Richard and his team. 2018’s

production was 16000 hectolitres,

still relatively small in industry terms,

and the intention is to ramp this up

considerably in the coming months,

getting those distinctive cans into a lot

more hands. Lion is already living up

to its promises and investing in a big

capacity upgrade at its Huddersfield

site, as well as in additional taprooms

to build on its retail success.

“I think there’s a lot more for us

to achieve as a brewery,” concludes

Richard. “Despite being well known in

the craft beer world, the vast majority

of people still have no idea who we

are. With the backing we have now,

I believe we can change that while

staying true to the principles that have

brought us this far.”

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Living the Cornish dream

When you’re as well-known

as Harbour Brewing, it’s

easy for people to bypass

exactly why you’re in the business in

the first place.

“Life comes first,” says owner

Adam Sargent. “But if you have to

work, what’s the next best thing

after enjoying life? Brewing beer – or

maybe making cakes.”

Harbour’s beers are solid, wellmade

heritage styles tweaked for

modern tastes, and Adam’s very

proud of that fact. For him, what’s

important is knowing that whatever

Harbour beer you pick up, whether

it’s a pint at the pub or a can at the

supermarket, is consistent and fully

delicious. Because where’s the fun in

cracking open a potential drainpour

when you want to be refreshed

instead of being challenged?

“We’re not about pushing the scene

with hazy juicebombs or anything

like that,” he says. “I do love a good,

juicy beer but we don’t look into

making them. We know that our

strengths are heritage beers; beers

that are brewed using traditional

techniques and recipes, updated

with a modern twist. So that’s what

we do, and we do them well.”

Harbour Brewing sits happily in

beautiful Bodmin, Cornwall, and the

wild and rugged landscape all around

inspires the brewers as much as the

ingredients they use. Being Cornish

is a big deal to Harbour, and while

many of the folks who work at either

of their two breweries are interlopers

from other parts of the world, there’s

a common appreciation and love for

Cornwall and the freedom it offers to

those who care to explore it.

“We’re selling that Cornish

lifestyle,” explains Adam. “We wake

up every day inspired by Cornwall.”

Selling that lifestyle further afield

was a brave step to take for Harbour,

but it’s seen them right. Now, around

90% of their beer is sold outside of

Cornwall, in places like London and

Leeds. Places where the thought of

surfing Cornish waves or hiking on

Bodmin Moor is aspirational rather

than a way of life.

“When people drink beer, it should

be secondary to their experience,”

says Adam. “The beer isn’t driving

you – it’s part of the whole. We look

at Harbour’s beers as something

you crack open to refresh you after

getting to the top of a hill, or in your

van after a day on the beach. For us,

it’s not about heading out to drink

beer first and foremost. It’s about

enjoying beer as part of the fun.”

Fun is a big word at Harbour. For

a while, Adam felt things weren’t

fun anymore, so they’ve invested

in “the Hinterland”, a research and

development brewery, to bring back

some of the joy. Their 30bbl main

brewery with its own canning line

can turn out one can a second if it

so wishes, but while there’s a special

sort of pride in maintaining and

using a state-of-the-art brewkit, it

can seem a little hands-off.

“It all went a little serious for a

time, but now it’s fun again,” says

Adam. “Commercial brewing can be

clinical, so our experimental brewery

reminds us why we do what we do.”

The Hinterland is an experimental

beer-based playground, filled with

the sort of nerdy kit you usually only

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HARBOUR BREWING

see in your wildest dreams. As well

as a mobile coolship – which Adam

says can be moved outside to collect

microflora from under specific apple

trees on their land if they want to

– they’ve got four fermenters, two

conditioning tanks, and oak open

fermenter, foudres and even some

amphora.

Amphora – Amphora are clay

pots, usually terracotta, that have

been used for storing liquids, waxes,

oils and powders since Neolithic

times. More and more experimental

breweries are using them to create

wild and naturally-fermented beers,

ciders, cider-beers, wines and meads,

but they’re totally not commonplace.

Back to the coolship then, a word

that definitely has become more

commonplace in craft brewing over

the past five years or so. Adam says

it enables them to make truly unique

beers every time, given that different

local microflora will be circulating in

the air around the wort at different

times throughout the year.

“With our main brewery, we know

exactly what we want and what we’re

going to get. With the experimental

brewery, we don’t necessarily know

what to expect from the beers we’re

brewing. It’s about tasting every

day, and waiting until the perfect

moment.”

“We use local ingredients too, and

for one of our recent experimental

beers we took some of Ben Glazer’s

sourdough bread from Tombshead

Farm – he’s one of the best

sourdough bakers in the country

– and crumbled it into the mash.

What came out of it in the end was

delicious.”

They aged some lager with cedar

wood lately too.

Now, around 90% of

their beer is sold outside

of Cornwall.

“What was cool about this project

is we put the cedar wood into the

beer as it lagered and the result

was so subtle but really changed

the complexity,” he says. “It was still

refreshing, people still recognised it

as lager, but it was different.”

The lager brewed at The Harbour

Brewing Co. is a matter of pride.

Their soft water is perfect for the

style, so Helles is used as both a

faithful homage to one of the easiestdrinking

summit beer styles ever,

and a recruitment exercise. Adam

explains:

“I like using lager as an

introduction for people. It’s easy to

forget that lager is the most popular

beer style in the UK. People are

buying it all the time. So if we can

introduce people to better lagers,

they’re going to want more from their

beer in the future”

“Our Helles is one way we can

bring people into our experience of

just enjoying good beer. We make

some of the best lager in the country

and lager is inclusive. Beer gets

taken so seriously sometimes. Save

that for the beer festivals.”

Speaking of which, they’re hosting

something of a knees up at the

London Craft Beer Festival. Sticking

to Harbour’s fun-based principles,

they’re having a 60 minute German

Beer Festival in the midst of one of

the biggest craft beer festivals in the

country.

“We’re selling lager, we’ll have an

oompah band, it’ll be a laugh,” says

Adam. Best get your lederhosen out

of storage.

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PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

H

“ maybe it’s time

to move on

from the word

‘Homebrew’

and leave the

stigma behind”

Homebrew…it’s a word that conjures up all sorts of thoughts and images.

Most people I’ve spoken to (outside of

geeky beer circles) either don’t know what

the word ‘homebrew’ means or recall

stories of an older relative attempting

it once upon a time only to produce a

super-strong concoction you could barely

call beer.

But times have changed. In reality,

people from all walks of life are making

commercial quality beers at home. Some

have even gone one step further and are

working for your favourite craft breweries,

having started out in their kitchen or shed.

Amazing equipment, kits and ingredients

these days mean anyone can start

making great beer, no matter your level

of expertise or ambition. Whether you

want to dive straight in and set up your

own fully equipped home brewery and

build your recipes from scratch, or if you

want the convenience of a quick and easy

recipe kit – there’s plenty of products and

brewing education widely available to get

you started.

So maybe it’s time to move on from the

word ‘Homebrew’ and leave the stigma

behind. It doesn’t mean what it used to

and it’s difficult to shift outdated negative

associations people have with it. Plus,

there doesn’t seem to be a clear consensus

on whether it’s one word or two…

That’s why, when we rebranded Make

Your Own kits, we purposefully left The H

Word off all our packaging, marketing...

everything.

Make Your Own (MYO) kits are different

to more traditional ‘homebrew’ kits too.

Originally developed 7 years ago to maximise

quality whilst remaining convenient

and affordable, MYO beer kits contain a

mix of malt extracts, which are cold-filled

into pouches (rather than traditional cans)

to preserve the malt aromas and flavours.

We also introduced dry hops to kits and

selected specific yeast strains depending

on the beer style being made, the result

of which is authentic, true to style,

homemade craft beer.

This year, MYO has gone through a big

change in terms of design, but the original

principles are the same as always. We

want to get as many people brewing as

possible, and to see how you can make

authentic, quality craft beers at home

which you’ll want to share with your family

and friends – we’ll let you decide whether

to call it ‘homebrew’ or not.

The MYO range includes 9 varieties of beer, wine and cider

kits, plus one-off limited editions. Find them in your local

The Range, which has 170+ stores nationwide.

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Nicky and Phil with Andreu (middle)

No two hangovers are quite

alike. They can shock you

awake, like emerging from

water, gasping for air, only to be

tossed ashore into the barren

afternoon of dehydration and

headaches. Some arrive with a rush

and a panic, swinging off doorways

and buses straight into a slew of

morning engagements, fooling you

into a false sense of sobriety and

catching you unawares after lunch.

Others, can provide an uncomfortable

glimpse into what Oppenhemier

meant by the ‘destroyer of worlds’...

I am sure I’ve had this hangover

before. Pinned down by the glaring

mid-morning sun, twisted up in the

kilt that I had so proudly worn the

night before, now it inelegantly wears

me. Boots on, shirt off, sprawled out

like a chalk line figure fallen from

an open window. Trousers restored,

balance regained, I find Nicky

WORDS: Phil Hall & Nicky Carter

splashing his face in the kitchen sink,

attempting to satiate his own delirious

drouth. In disbelief, it’s out into the

blinding June heat-wave we go.

These particular strains of

hangover were cultivated the night

before at a friend’s wedding just

outside of Amsterdam. Countless

bierjes served with a shot of jenever,

gin’s rugged ancestor, (colloquially

known as a 'Kopstoot' or head-butt)

were heroically drunk with the Dutch

dearly beloved, gathered at the

reception bar late into the night.

Hangovers like this demand the

attention of a professional consultant.

Through baked, bewildering

streets, toward Westerpark, we set

off in search of Andreu Blai Herrero,

from Brouwerij Troost. Perhaps he

can provide us some kind of remedy

for this intoxicated malady? "Het haar

van de hond", if you will... Our first

soothing balm comes in the shape of

the brewery itself. Separated from

the heaving city by the Haarlemerweg

Canal, the brewery is housed within

the red brick buildings of an old

gas works. Nestled within the leafy

dappled light of the park, it truly feels

like an oasis of calm.

Founded back in 2013 in the

De Pijp area of the city, Troost

expanded quickly and now has

four venues in town. Their express

intention: creating delicious beers in

beautiful surroundings. Once within

the courtyard of the tap room, the

weight of the city heat lifts from our

shoulders. Trellises of hops grow tall

from between packed picnic benches

filled with contented patrons, busily

attended to with table service in the

sun. A beer drinker’s idyll. In the

middle of this merry scene, in shorts

and t-shirt, stands Valencian Andreu,

utterly at home. He welcomes us

in. The tap-room is light and airy.

Of course on a day like today, the

capacious beer hall is close to empty.

A space given up by the industrial

machinery that once lived within,

it seems especially spacious on this

occasion. Set behind, the bright tanks

of the brewery stand proud to the full

height of the building, reflecting light

back into the bar. Euro beats ricochet

off the high ceilings and table tops.

Instantly it raised our

moods from jolly nausea

to picnic spirit.

After Andreu shows us around, it’s

time to begin the tour in earnest at

the bar. As it turns out, Troost’s beers

are as easy-going and inviting as their

surroundings. Club Tropicana, their

take on a Berlinner Weise, is slightly

sour with a fruitiness that can only be

truly expressed through its appealing

shade of pink. Instantly it raised our

moods from jolly nausea to picnic

spirit. It really should be kept in a

glass case marked: ‘break glass in

event of an early summer heatwave!’.

The standout brew of the bunch,

Troost’s superlative New England

IPA deftly blurs the lines between

a smooth and hoppy IPA, and

something altogether lighter, fruitier

and lush. Equal parts beer hall

and the sun terrace, it is absolutely

delicious. Their Belgian-style Tripel

elevates traditional foundations of

coriander and citrus to produce

something distinctly modern and of

real quality. This symbiosis with their

surroundings is concurrent in all their

practices. The whole place runs on

green electricity and they use the

by-products of their brewing to bake

bread. Sustainable honey is sourced

for their award winning Honigblond,

with a portion of the proceeds going

to the hives in Troost De Pijp and to

wild bee cultivation across the city.

Organic waste is recycled to help fuel

their biogas vehicles. Everything is

considered and everything works, it’s

the brewing version of the Good Life.

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The

Bottleshop

Visit our bottleshop, jam-packed with great beer for you to explore and

enjoy. Discover the benefits for our members and make the most of

your unlimited points with a tidy selection of beers available right now.

We sit outside as the beers keep

coming. Cerveza, their Dutch/

Mexican offering, complete with

lemon wedges arrives glistening

at the table. Another concentric

layer of last night's revelry begins

to evaporate in the bright sunshine.

To help aid this quickening revival,

it’s time to eat. Troost produce a

menu to complement their beers.

From bar snacks to pub grub, all the

dishes come out in instagrammable

perfection, and most are infused

with beers from their core range.

Renovating the old to produce

something new and inspirational is

a theme that spills onto the pages

of their menu, manifesting itself

in the form of Bitterballen. These

meaty, ragout-filled delights are

popularly served in Holland as part

of a traditional 'bittergarnituur',

a selection of savoury deep-fried

mysteries, dunked in mustard and

dished up alongside beer. It’s their

Vegan Bitterballen, however, that

commands our attention. Vegan?

Bitterballen?! Crisp on the outside

and ‘meaty’ in the middle, these

ingenious plant-based versions of the

perennial Dutch bar snack go just as

well with the beer they produce.

It's hard to believe Valencian

Andreu Blai has only been applying

his meticulous brewing standards to

the Troost model for just six short

months, but you can already sense

the place wouldn't be the same

without him. "I like things to be done

my way" he affirms, sipping away at

a freshly poured NEIPA. In Troost,

he has found a brewery fully aligned

with his exacting standards that

affords him the time to focus his full

attention on making us great tasting

beer.

We listen intently as he describes

his working practices and what he

wants to achieve with his beers.

Articulate and engaging, he’s a rising

star on the brewing firmament.

Andreu’s conversation frequently

takes us far away from the dishevelled

drought of our respective morning

crises. We’re back to the land of the

living, and living well! Libations flow

as we discuss beer, European politics,

Valencian independence... travel.

Finally, the shadow of the previous

night’s bibulousness has drifted off

into the clear blue skies. To celebrate,

Andreu orders a round of Kopstoots;

Troost make their own Jenever

of course, in both young and old

varieties. We toast to Andreu and

the continued success of everything

they do at Troost. After a few more

Kopstoots, we realise eight hours

has passed in the pleasure and

comfort of this red-brick paradise.

We bid farewell to our new friend,

and stumble back into the city with a

renewed capability, in search of the

other two Troost bars.

Bukowski once said that drinking is

like killing yourself and being reborn

into a new life the next day. Chuck

thought he must’ve lived about ten

or fifteen thousand lives. The one we

spent there in the Westerpark was

certainly one of our best.

26

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I DRINK

...therefore I am

Drinking and thinking,

and thinking about drinking

with the “pioneers of

alcohol-based comedy”

There’s no more discerning

way to fall off the wagon,” said Time

Out, after seeing the Thinking Drinkers

perform their two-man stage-show at

the Edinburgh Festival. But there’s a

little more to it than getting battered

at a comedy show. Offering free drinks

to ticketholders might have helped

Ben McFarland and Tom Sandham sell

out every year for eight years on the

Fringe, but it’s certainly not the only

reason people pay good money to see

them.

Both Ben and Tom are acclaimed

drinks writers; Ben has won the

British Beer Writer of the Year award

three times and written two books

on the subject, while Tom is the

former editor of spirits and cocktail

magazine CLASS, has launched several

magazines for the Soho House Group

and wrote the book “World’s Best

Cocktails”. They know what they’re

talking about.

Their schtick is this: they present

beer lectures that are actually fun,

with occasional prancing, dancing,

singing, drinking and arsing about. In

the past, the pair have championed

the British pub and hosted comedybased

formal tastings. This year, their

‘Heroes of Hooch’ show centres on

heroic historical characters and their

relationships with booze. Tom agreed

to shed some light on the situation.

“We wanted to talk about famous

people through history and break

down what their relationships with

drink were,” he says.

“It’s the perfect way of identifying

yourself with famous people

WORDS: Katie Mather

throughout history. You might not think

you have anything in common with

them, but you do. They enjoyed a drink

too!”

The starting point for their show, the

Genesis if you will, was unexpected.

“The first person we thought of

including was God,” says Tom.

“Beer was totally vital to the creation

of civilisation, and early man gave all

the credit to the natural reaction of

yeast with grain to the gods. In fact,

it was known as ‘godisgoode’ until

relatively recently, just because people

didn’t know what it was that created

the chemical reaction needed to

produce alcohol, and so assumed it was

divine intervention.”

Of course, things get more scientific

along the way. It’s a beer lecture, after

all.

“One of our most important heroes

of hooch is Louis Pasteur,” Tom

explains. “Break it down – he wanted

to know why his beer was going sour,

so he took a look at it through his

microscope and developed germ

theory.”

“So, essentially, Pasteur went on to

save millions of lives with his scientific

findings, because of his love of beer!”

Tom and Ben were also keen to

look into the term ‘hero’ and what it

means in the modern age. Part of the

Heroes of Hooch show delves into their

findings.

“It’s so easy for someone to be

declared a hero nowadays,” said Tom.

“We wanted to look at real heroic

acts and gestures, and pit them against

current definitions of who a hero might

be.” To great comedic effect, naturally.

There’s something heroic about the

Thinking Drinkers’ shows too. Over

the 2018 season, around 15,000 people

saw the show. That’s 15,000 people

who might not have cared much about

beer, all sitting down to laugh and

learn. 15,000 people tasting beers and

hearing about how they were made and

who made them, who might never have

tried them otherwise. That’s a huge

deal, right?

Tom says he hadn’t really looked

at it that way before, but agrees it’s

definitely the sort of impact he and

Ben wanted to have.

“Thousands of different people have

been tasting beers at our shows and

we’ve been convincing them to try

it. No matter how stupid, how many

bad jokes, we can bring it back to a

formal tasting, and people can learn

a bit about the beer they’re drinking

whether they realise it or not.”

“It’s really hard to get people to listen

to a formal tasting. The underpants

help.”

Both Ben and Tom are huge

supporters of pubs, and in every show

they talk about how everyone can

support their favourites, and help keep

beloved locals open.

“At the moment it feels like a bit of

a heroic gesture to go out and enjoy a

pint at your local pub in the midst of all

the health scares and stuff,” says Tom.

“We want to support local publicans

on our tour – we’ll be able to shout

about their pubs at our shows in their

towns and cities, and there are other

ways we can help too. Get in touch!”

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MEMBERS’

BOTTLE SHARE

This month we’re in Sheffield to share

a few special beers with our loyal

members, and the local Head of

Steam has kindly agreed to put us up for

the evening (our table is sectioned off with

velvet rope, no less).

For those not in the know, Head of

Steam pubs are owned by Camerons

Brewery in Hartlepool and can be found

in 15 locations across the north of England.

We’ve been to a few now and the staff are

always knowledgeable and enthusiastic

(ie, massive geeks) and the beer selection

always impeccable. This evening, we’re

being looked after by barman Kieran,

whose knowledge of his beers is truly

impressive, and whose keenness to put

together the best possible tasting line-up

for us is heart-warming. We’re in good

hands.

THE HEAD OF STEAM

103-107 Norfolk St,

Sheffield S1 2JE

WORDS & PHOTOS : Richard Croasdale

First up we have a couple of the house

beers from Tooth & Claw brewery, ably

introduced by Kieran, kicking off with its

Nelson very pale ale. Brewed with a tonne

of Nelson Sauvin hops, the light body and

fruity aroma is very wine-like; an impression

that carries through to the crisp and

quenching first sip. As with all the Tooth &

Claw beers, the name of the brewer who

devised the recipe features prominently on

the front of the can, which is a cute touch.

“I love how they’ve used the hops. I know

Brewdog use a lot of Nelson Sauvin, but

this is much more subtle than that,” says

Rebecca Heminway.

“It’s very light and fruity. It’s got quite a

strong nose but feels lighter than that when

you taste it,” adds Steven Delvin.

Next up is the Brut IPA. A few of us

around the table have tried this style

before and expectations are, to say the

least, mixed, with several of our guests

fearing an ultra-dry, two-dimensional slap

of bitter hops. Tooth & Claw’s take on this

notoriously tricky and fashionable style is

less extreme that though, and builds layers

of flavour to balance out the lack of sugar;

there’s still some biscuit malt there, as well

as fruity and floral hop character.

Rebecca says: “I like the fact that it’s not

just dry – there’s other things going on from

the hops, so it’s not two-dimensional.”

Susan Pearce isn’t entirely convinced

though: “I’m not sure what I think of this. It’s

a little bit too dry. It feels weird. It’s kind of

got that, the smell is a bit overpowering for

me. It’s like drinking a really dry wine – it’s

not what I was expecting from a beer.

There’s a brief hiatus in the tasting,

as three big stone-baked pizzas arrive

at our table, including a vegan hoisin

duck number. I know, but trust me it was

genuinely great.

Introduced by Kieran in his

characteristically dispassionate style and

“banging and fantastic” our third beer

of the night is Northern Monk’s Patron’s

project 13.04, Omega Vortex. This bigbodied

DIPA, brewed in collaboration with

Other Half and Equilibrium, cranks up the

dank all the way, with a complex hop bill

involving Simcoe, Chinook, Mosaic and

Citra. The result is tropical fruit, spice and

pine resin.

“This is the best thing I’ve tasted for

a while,” says Michael Bamford, a little

breathlessly.

Meanwhile Susan has discovered the can

label pulls back to reveal the full story of

the beer and the people behind it. “Who

knew you could come to the pub, have a

beer and read all about it. What a great

idea!” Thanks Susan; that would make a

good magazine, eh?

Kieran and I have thrown in a bit of a

curve ball next, in the form on Timmerman’s

Oude Kreik, a blend of young and old

Lambics re-fermented on beautiful ripe

cherries. It’s dry and reasonably complex,

with layers of sourness delivering lacto

tartness, a dash of acetic vinegar and a little

funk on the side.

As expected, this one splits the table,

and really only Rebecca and her husband

Tom (currently planning an epic Belgian

beer tour) are fans. Most of it ends up in

the bucket.

We move into slightly safer territory

for our penultimate brew: Fierce Beer’s

excellent Blackcurrant Tart, a superclean

kettle sour with fragrant British

blackcurrant and just enough sweetness for

balance. Despite being the second sour in a

row, it’s a big hit.

“This is absolutely my favourite so far,”

says Susan. “To be honest I’m not really a

big beer drinker, but I love this – it’s more

like wine.” I crack open the spare can and

top her up.

“It’s so well balanced,” agrees Rebecca.

“The sourness is so clean and goes

really will with the sharpness of the

blackcurrants.”

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MEMBERS’ BOTTLE SHARE

“I’m not sure I would have ordered this if

I saw it in the fridge, but I’m really enjoying

it,” says Steve. “I was worried it would just

taste like boozy Ribena, but it doesn’t at all.

Our closer for the evening is

Thornbridge’s sumptuous barrel aged

imperial stout, Necessary Evil; clocking in

at a hefty 13%, there’s really nowhere left to

go. The hit of strength and intense flavour

proved too much for some, though those of

us who enjoyed it were more than happy to

accept donations.

“You can definitely taste the bourbon

barrel, but there’s dark fruit in there too, like

you’d get with a barleywine,” says Michael.

“Chocolate and coffee too. This is the kind

of beer you’d want to sip slowly over a

couple of hours and then fall asleep.”

Sleep can wait for later though.

Even though the tasting is over,

everyone’s still having fun and swapping

recommendations. Out of curiosity, we

introduce Susan to Delirium Tremens Red

Cherry, which she loves. Then we move

on to more stout and whisky. I’m not sure

what time we leave, but everyone’s got

my personal email address and a standing

order to call me if they’re ever in Edinburgh.

Good times.

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SHEFFIELD

CITY GUIDE

PUBS AND BARS

THE DEVONSHIRE CAT

49 Wellington St, S1 4HG

Despite looking disconcertingly like

a Slug & Lettuce, the Devonshire

cat is actually a real treasure trove

of excellent craft beer, with an

ever-changing draft list and good

selection of bottles. It gets lively at the

weekends and has decent pub food if

you fancy settling in for the evening.

THE BEER ENGINE

17 Cemetery Rd, S11 8FJ

Cosy bordering on shambolic, The

Beer Engine has a mismatched charm

that suggests the owners are more

interested in their beer list than the

décor. And this is no bad thing, as

its 17 taps run the gamut from the

safe and solid house bitter, through

experimental sours right on to boozy

triples.

THE KELHAM ISLAND TAVERN

62 Russell St, S3 8RW

Situated in the up-and-coming former

industrial neighbourhood from which

it takes its name, the Kelham Island

Tavern’s working men’s club interior

hides a flair for the unusual, with

traditional cask ales sitting alongside

some seriously interesting brews

from the region’s best breweries. We

found several here that we’d not seen

anywhere else.

THE BAR STEWARDS

163 Gibraltar St, S3 8UA

How long can a ‘pop-up’ bar stay open

before it technically becomes just a

haphazardly decorated normal bar?

Open 18 months now, The Bar Stewards

bar and bottleshop may well have

crossed that line, but we don’t care. It

looks great, has tonnes of atmosphere

and its wide selection of beers are

great value for money. Dancer.

THE BATH HOTEL

66-68, Victoria St, S3 7QL

A throwback to the days when pubs

were pubs, this 1930s landmark is now

owned by Thornbridge, whose beers

feature heavily in the line-up of 12 taps

and pumps, along with a handful of

carefully curated guests. The interior

is Grade II listed, and really is the

perfect spot to savour a slow, postlunch

pint or two. The Bath is one of

several traditional pubs around the

city now being run by Thornbridge, all

of which are full of locals and have a

real community feel about them. Bravo

Thornbridge. Check out The Coach

and Horses, The Stag’s Head, The

Greytones and The Cross Scythes.

HEAD OF STEAM

103-107 Norfolk St, S1 2JE

This well-known group of pubs across

the north of England are all awesome,

frankly. Always lively, always great

food and the beer nerds who run

each pub are given a lot of autonomy

when buying their beer. This shows in

The Head of Steam Sheffield, where

an entire fridge of tantalising Belgian

goodies takes pride of place at the end

of the bar.

BREWERIES

KELHAM ISLAND

23 Alma St, S3 8SA

Having started out brewing in the

beer garden of The Fat Cat, Kelham

Island paved the way for the city’s new

wave of craft brewers. Sink a pint of its

signature Pale Rider pale ale, perfectly

conditioned on cask, with a creamy

mouthfeel and citrus snap, at the pub

where it all began, or at the Tap &

Tankard in the city centre.

ABBEYDALE

8 Aizlewood Rd, S8 0YX

Another Sheffield institution,

Abbeydale was founded in 1996 by

Patrick Morton and his father Hugh.

22 years later, it’s still very much a

family affair, with Patrick and his wife

Sue running the show. Its flagship pale

ale, Moonshine, is a local staple,

but there’s plenty else to see in

the brewery’s fast-paced release

schedule, including barrel-aged and

funky sour beers.

STANCILL

Unit 2 Oakham Dr, S3 9QX

Salvaged from the 2013 closure of

Barnsley’s beloved Oakwell Brewery,

the brewhouse now used by Stancill

is a piece of local history that also

just happens to make excellent beer.

Headed up by Thomas Gill and Adam

Hague, Stancill has a lineup of nine

core beers and a number of specials

throughout the year. Its blonde has

THE DEVONSHIRE CAT

become a runaway success, allowing

the brewery to open four of its own

pubs across the city.

EXIT 33

Unit 1 Petre Dr, S4 7PZ

Traditional, quality ingredients, but a

modern approach is what makes Exit

33’s unfiltered, unpasteurised beers

some of the city’s finest. Based in a

former cutlery works in the East End,

Exit 33 is more interested in taking

drinkers on a journey than trying to

please all the people, all the time. It’s

an ethos we can get behind when the

beer is this good. Enjoy a pint at the

Harlequin, Exit 33’s pub.

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SHEFFIELD CITY GUIDE

KELHAM ISLAND MUSEUM

ABBEYDALE PICTURE HOUSE

THE MILLENNIUM GALLERY

WHAT TO DO

IN SHEFFIELD

THE MILLENNIUM GALLERY

48 Arundel Gate, S1 2PP

The Millennium Gallery is well worth a

visit, hosting a great collection of art and

design, as well as a packed calendar of

classes and events (and entry is free).

PEAK DISTRICT

NATIONAL PARK

Aldern House, Baslow Road,

Bakewell, DE45 1AE

Objectively one of the most beautiful

places on Earth, with tonnes to do for the

outdoor-loving soul, the Peak District is

undoubtedly one of the biggest perks to

living or holidaying in Sheffield. There’s

also a bunch of amazing craft breweries

in and around it – including Thornbridge,

Ikley and Buxton – so jump on your bike

and make a day of it.

ABBEYDALE

PICTURE HOUSE

387 Abbeydale Rd, S7 1FS

A truly amazing old traditional theatre,

currently undergoing renovation back to

full use. As well as being a cinema – with

a great schedule of mainstream and

more unusual titles – Abbeydale also

hosts music and other cultural events.

Clearly a passion project, and one that’s

easy to be passionate about.

KELHAM ISLAND MUSEUM

Alma St, S3 8RY

Run by the Sheffield Industrial Museums

Trust, the Kelham Island Museum is

a well-presented slice of industrial

heritage, and a must for anyone who

gets emotional at the sight of big steel.

See craftsmen at work, marvel at the

huge riverboat engine and tire the

kids out with some quality interactive

nonsense.

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Alex Robertson catches up

with snooker legend Jimmy

White at Sheffield’s Crucible

theatre, the spiritual home

of the global game

Still 10 th in the all-time ranking of

snooker event winners, Jimmy “The

Whirlwind” White is one of the

most popular players the game has ever

known, earning him the nickname “The

People’s Champion”. His fluid, attacking

style won him two of snooker's three

majors: the UK Championship (in 1992)

and the Masters (in 1984) and a total

of ten ranking events, though he never

won the World Championships. He’s still

busy playing, and is currently taking part

in the Snooker Legends World Seniors

tour.

You’re still one of the best-loved players

of all time. What do you think it is that

people particularly connected with, and

what did they love about your style?

I attacked the game. I always went

for my balls, and that cost me a few

tournaments, but it was exciting for me

to play like that. The crowd enjoyed

watching me play.

Where I grew up, I was taught to lose

gracefully, and perhaps there was a

combination of taking risks, then not

only sometimes losing, but losing with

pride which I think people appreciated.

You had Alex “Hurricane” Higgins

when the game first started really

getting big and he had a bit of stardust

when playing, then you had myself,

and Ronnie O’Sullivan (5 times World

Champ), and now you’ve got Judd

Trump (current World Champion).

There are roughly 14 years between

each of us, and we are all players who

just wouldn’t play it safe, we just had to

attack the game.

At the end of the day I won 10 majors,

and although I got into six finals, I never

won the world championships. I am still

playing so I’ve not cancelled that out as

a possibility. You’ve just got to connect

right in the right game after all!

Your great successes came during what

was arguably a golden age for the game.

How is the UKs talent stacking up at the

moment?

Most young players at the moment are

coming from China, there aren’t a lot

of young players coming up from UK

and Ireland. I think Jason Francis from

Snooker Legends is making the playing

scene for Senior players look really

good, and this has a lot of older players

coming out of retirement. Hopefully

this will encourage more interest in the

game, and then it’s about getting more

grassroots activity, and more coaches out

there. Additionally, the UK needs some

academies to drive talent forward. There

are lots of academies in China and there

were 5 Chinese players qualified for the

World Championships this year out of 16

places, which is a feat in itself.

What have been the most significant

changes to the game in the 40 years

you’ve been competing?

From a technique perspective, people

are more organised, you’ve got DVDs

teaching you how to work on “Cue

Actions” and helping you learn playing

styles of great players. When people

get started, they make sure they have

a great cue and have a good playing

surface to play on. People can access

good kit easily online and that makes a

big difference.

Ronnie O’Sullivan is getting involved

with Eurosport to deliver short training

clips to be shown alongside the 2019

World Championships, and it’s like

being trained in tennis by Roger Federer,

which is amazing. We didn’t have these

things when we were getting started.

Snooker had a reputation for being

pretty boozy in the 80s and 90s. What

was it like being in the midst of that,

and has it changed in the modern

game?

It’s like the footballers these days. Back

in the day you’d see a footballer out on

a Thursday night drinking and dancing.

A snooker player wouldn’t think twice

about having a few beers before playing.

But everyone now is trying to have the

clearest head they can. When I was

at the top of my game, I enjoyed a few

beers before playing and it settled me

into the game. They stopped the beer

and cigarettes, but the game is still the

same.

The World Seniors’ competition is

coming up. How does it feel to be

playing alongside so many familiar

faces, and do you fancy your chances?

I play a lot of exhibition games, but

I’m really excited about this and going

back to a lot of top venues. When

we are doing the Snooker Legends

tournaments with players like Cliff

Thorburn, Tony Knowles, and myself.

We get to meet the public and connect

with them, beyond just the serious bit of

playing the game. So the World Seniors’

competition should be no different and

we’ll be taking time to meet people and

enjoy ourselves.

We get to play at the Crucible and

I love playing there. It’s just a great

place. It’s unique and has been built

around the game, it’s absolutely perfect

for snooker.

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HOMEBREWING

Let’s get one thing straight: the best reason

to brew your own beer is for the love

of crafting and learning. It's a chance to

weave malt and hops and yeast together

in unique combinations. I've often thought

that homebrewers must appear mad to anyone

who doesn't 'get it', as it's basically a case of

spending the majority of a Saturday cleaning,

monitoring temperatures and note-taking.

Why do all that work when you could be

putting your feet up? But other homebrewers

understand that the chance of pure escapism

into experimentation and creativity makes

up for all that. And as for drinking the spoils,

the fruits of our labour with friends a few

weeks later? There is almost no occasion more

satisfying.

For some homebrewers, there’s more on

the agenda than just stocking the fridge.

The microbrewery boom in the UK over the

last decade or so has blown the doors into

the beer industry wide open. Forget the

stereotype of a brewery owner as a middlehobby

or

hustle?

WORDS: Holly Stephens

aged man with a freehold premise in the

countryside. Tiny railway arch city brewpubs

run by small teams brewing great beer with

second-hand equipment has put the concept

of being a brewer squarely within the realms

of reality for ambitious young beer-lovers

in recent years. I call out the ‘young’ beer

lovers in particular for a reason. These

'Generation Y' folk are the ones who are most

doggedly determined to forge an income

from doing the things they love for a living.

Research conducted by Department26 last

year shows that young people in particular

care more about working on something they

feel passionate about than any other factor,

including money. But when we consider the

high volume of people who are passionate

about cracking open a cool bottle of

something tasty, where does that leave us?

And what are the consequences?

Most of us though are

happy to have it as a hobby

“The blossoming of the current UK

homebrewing community was an inevitable

ramification of the explosive arrival of craft

beer & microbreweries onto the scene”,

says Simon Pipola, Founder & Director of

BrewCon. “The hobby itself has evolved

massively also, with high end all-in-one

brewing systems like the Grainfather &

Hopcat become much more popular and

a tendency towards all-grain brewing over

extract as people strive to emulate the

multiple amazing modern beers on the

market.” So not only are more people getting

into brewing, but more of them are taking the

quality of their output seriously. “More and

more people are showing a real interest in not

just the taste of their beers but in the people

making them, their processes and ingredients

they use. This has led to a surge of people

taking up amateur brewing”.

It’s hard to take a brewery tour these days

without being shown around the mash tuns by

a thirty-something, who will proudly exclaim

that they started off brewing in their garage

several years before turning their passion

into a moneymaker. If it feels like this is fast

becoming a trope, there’s a good reason for

that. Statistics show that the country has

been jumping on the brewing bandwagon

in unprecedented numbers. Back in 2017,

The Guardian reported that the number of

UK breweries had risen 65% since 2011, and

that this surge meant that the UK had more

breweries per capita than any other nation.

With this monumental growth of recent years

in mind, it is perhaps a little concerning

that a key finding in this year's SIBA British

Craft Beer report was that young people are

drinking smaller volumes of higher quality

beer. So with drinkers becoming pickier and

the range of options increasing, the market

is more crowded and more competitive than

ever.

Homebrewing blogger Paul Crowther

(otherwise known as The Mad Brewer) is

among those who would ultimately like to

make a full-time vocation of his passion to

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HOMEBREWING - HOBBY OR HUSTLE?

brew. “I think making a career of the hobby is

at the forefront for me. Less for commercial

success but to do what I love for a living.” Paul

goes on to tell me that his current plan is to

open a homebrew shop. This got me thinking

about the retailers already in this space. I

wanted to know if and how sales patterns

have changed in the last decade, in the wake

of the microbrewery boom. Surely a fresh

batch of aspirational home brewers has to be

good for business?

The craft beer market

is definitely saturated

at the moment

Claire Russell, owner of Home Brewtique,

told me that she has noticed an uptick

in interest in homebrewing as a result

of the creativity in the beer industry.

HomeBrewtique provide equipment and

ingredient kits for all-grain brewing on a small

scale. Claire says that she intended to make

brewing more readily available to people who

didn’t have the space to store 40 pints, or the

time to dedicate to making large volumes.

Driving Claire in her mission was the desire

to make brewing more accessible for those

who don't fit the age-old stereotype of what

a homebrewer should look like. “Once only

something done by old men in their garden

sheds, the homebrewer of today is interested

in being able to re-create the interesting beers

they have been trying from the multitude of

microbreweries.”

The breaking down of boundaries in

homebrewing has been much needed, as the

pastime is still largely dominated by the usual

suspects. A 2017 global survey conducted by

Brülosophy revealed that a staggering 99% of

respondents were male, and more than 40%

had a background in the sciences. I wanted to

find out whether the UK is ahead of this curve

in terms of diversity or not. Kat Sewell, author

of the 'Have I got brews for you' blog, shared

her experiences of being a member of the

Water Into Beer homebrew club in southeast

London. “There's still only 2 women in my

group but the group has grown massively

within the last year and our age range is very

wide, from early 20s up to 70”.

As more people become motivated to

convert their hobbies to paid vocations, how

many people are still getting into brewing

‘just for fun’, with no monetary or careerdriven

agenda? Kat told me that in terms of

her local homebrew club, it’s a mixed bag.

“We've had a couple of homebrewers go on

to open their own brewery and we've had

a few go on to work for breweries”. I’m not

surprised to hear this; after all, southeast

London has been one of the hottest spots

in the country on the brewing job boards

over the last decade. “Most of us though are

happy to have it as a hobby” Kat continues.

“Our group is very experimental. Some of the

things they do would just be a bit mad if it

was on a professional scale.” This resonates

with much of what I find profoundly attractive

about homebrewing. The practical benefits

are clear; mistakes are relatively inexpensive,

and are a way to learn, hone, and get better.

The stakes are not the same as when there’s a

premise, a landlord and a host of utility bills

and licencing laws to worry about.

It might be natural for many of us to see

a thing which brings joy as an opportunity

to get a leg-up into a career in a soughtafter

industry. “The craft beer market is

definitely saturated at the moment” Simon

of BREW CON observes. “Whilst two years

ago a solid knowledge of brewing may have

sufficed, breweries today expect some sort

of qualifications, be it a degree or general

brewing certificate from Brew Lab or IBD.

Homebrewers tend to be quite acute beer

nerds (and proud of it) so are very aware of

market trends”.

Perhaps the act of chasing a career changes

the nature of the passion, by creating a

sense of urgency, competition and need for

success, which for some people could begin

to overwrite that which they had first fallen in

love with. Paul summed this up aptly. “I talked

to a commercial brewer who had got into

[the industry] through homebrewing recently

and he says he didn’t get time to homebrew

anymore... that’s the worry for me; losing the

hobby if it becomes my job”.

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WORDS: Anthony Gladman

he craft beer market, in case

you hadn’t noticed, is getting

pretty crowded these days.

After a decade during which the

sector has enjoyed solid advances

year-on year, brewers now face

increased competition and slowing

growth. The spirits market has also

been booming for the past decade,

but doesn’t appear to be suffering the

same fate. Gin in particular continues

to go from strength to strength. It

makes sense then that some brewers

are turning to spirits to protect their

bottom line, diversify their income

streams and grow their brand.

Spirit of Cornwall

One brewery that’s gone down this

route is the Atlantic Brewery and

Distillery. If you don’t live in the

southwest, you may not be familiar

with the name. “Something that’s

always a bit tricky down in Cornwall is

exporting out of Cornwall,” says Stuart

Thomson, Atlantic’s founder.

Stuart makes organic and vegan

cask- and bottle-conditioned beers.

As well as the usual pale ales with

American hops, he also produces

beers flavoured with ingredients

grown at the brewery – such as

blackberries, elderflower and rhubarb

– all certified organic. This carries

higher production costs and, since

the economic crash of 2008, Stuart

has found it appealing less to his

customers as a selling point. Which is

partly why he decided to try distilling

as well.

Stuart began exploring distilling in

2016 with the landlord of a local pub,

the Falcon in St Morgan’s. “He was a

big advocate of local and craft ales, so

he was buying our beers regularly and

I was drinking there regularly,” says

Stuart. “After 10 years, he was looking

to retire and looking for something

else to do. We got talking over a few

beers and thought we’d investigate the

world of gin.”

Stuart visited local distilleries

to learn the craft and bought two

100-litre Portuguese copper pot stills.

He spent six months developing

recipes, then released Atlantic’s first

two spirits: Jynevra and Gorsedh.

Both gins contain gorse flower, a very

Cornish touch. Jynevra is an elegant

orange-led dry gin supported by

bergamot. It has prominent juniper

and citrus flavours with a light herbal

note from the gorse flower. Gorsedh

is a rich, herbal dry gin: floral, grassy

and earthy with hints of coconut and

lime.

The spirits caught on and within

18 months were equalling the sales

of Atlantic’s beer. Atlantic have since

made gins flavoured with blackcurrant

and mint, and rhubarb and vanilla.

Stuart will complete this trio of garden

gins with a gooseberry and elderflower

gin later this summer. Again, all three

use organic ingredients grown at the

brewery.

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BOTH SIDES OF THE LYNE ARM

For Atlantic’s spirits, provenance

is a big selling point. “Much more so

with the gin than with the beer,” says

Stuart. “It seems to be coming more

and more to the fore at the moment so

it’s a very good story for us. I’m proud

of the fact that we grow our own

Angelica root. I’m not sure if anyone

else does that.”

Stuart has found his spirits easier

to sell outside Cornwall than his

beers. This is partly down to their

greater shelf life and stability. And

also because, with their higher price,

the economics of selling them to bars,

hotels and restaurants across the

country makes more sense. “We see

the spirits as having a much greater

scope geographically and therefore

giving us a much greater potential for

growth.”

By law neutral spirit

must be distilled to 95%

ABV in the USA and

96% in the EU.

Back when Atlantic was only making

beer, Stuart continued to work at his

day job in IT. He describes slowly

migrating from working towards

brewing over eight to ten years. Only

in the last five years was he finally

able to go full time with his brewery.

The upturn in Atlantic’s fortunes

since diversifying into spirits has

been dramatic. “The headaches that

stocked up under me have gone away,”

says Stuart. Atlantic will soon move its

distillery to a new, separate site where

it will have room to expand. And

Stuart plans one day to step up to a

full distilling licence to make a greater

range of spirits.

Rectifying

Like Stuart, many people who go into

the spirits market start off making gins

and vodkas. Partly it’s because they’re

delicious and hugely popular. But

there are other underlying reasons to

do with their manufacture that make

them a sensible option. Not least of

which is that they are not aged, so

warehousing becomes much simpler.

And then there’s the distillation

itself. Gins and vodkas are made

from a neutral spirit distilled to an

extremely high strength in order to

leave it with as little character as

possible. This gives a blank canvass

upon which a distiller can build

his or her own flavour profiles. You

don’t need to make this neutral spirit

yourself. In fact, the vast majority of

spirits producers do not. Instead, it’s

common to buy it in, then re-distill

it with botanicals. If juniper is chief

among these, you’ve made gin; if not

then it’s vodka. This practice is called

rectifying. All you need to get going is

a pot still and the least bothersome of

HMRC’s various distilling licences.

Grain to glass

While most producers buy in their

neutral spirit, some choose to make

their own and distill from grain to

glass. “We’re one of only a handful

doing that,” says John McCarthy,

head distiller at Adnams. “It’s not

just the small producers who are

buying in the neutral grain spirit.

The likes of Bombay Sapphire,

Gordon’s, they’re all buying in

neutral grain spirit made by someone

else.”

By law neutral spirit must be

distilled to 95% ABV in the USA and

96% in the EU. “It doesn’t sound like

much, but trust me it’s a massive

difference that 1%,” says John. To

achieve 95% ABV requires a column

with roughly 10 to 14 plates. To

reach 96% you will need at least 30

plates and possibly as many as 40.

This represents a huge outlay on

equipment alone, but that’s just the

start of the difficulties.

“It’s slow,” says John. “It takes 11

hours to make 300 litres of pure

alcohol. And we’re putting it through

a polishing still after that as well. So

it’s time consuming with some very

expensive equipment. And you need

a lot of space — a 40 plate column

is very tall. Ours is split in two and

it’s still very tall.” On top of which,

neutral spirit sells for peanuts. Little

wonder then that many companies

— even established premium spirits

brands — choose to buy it in rather

than make it themselves. “People are

not going to go to that expense when

they can buy neutral grain spirit for

as little as £1 per litre elsewhere,”

says John.

So why does Adnams bother? “It’s

because we’re brewers. Why are we

going to buy someone else’s alcohol

when we can make our own? It’s our

USP.” John also likes to use local

ingredients. Provenance like this is

important because even at 96% ABV,

with almost every trace of the raw

ingredients stripped out of the spirit,

some subtle character will remain.

John uses primarily local grains

fermented with Adnams yeast. East

Anglia produces some of the finest

barley in the world, so the appeal is

clear. “We actually have rye that’s

grown by Jonathan Adnams on his

own farm a mile away. I can take you

to a field and show you where the

rye is growing, and we can do the

same with the barley and the wheat”.

Adnams makes three different

washes (basically unhopped beers

for distilling), each of which has its

own distinct mouthfeel, textures and

flavours. The first uses 100% barley.

The second uses 75% rye and 25%

barley. The third is mostly wheat,

with barley and some oats to give

it a creamy texture. This last brew,

once distilled, becomes Adnams

Longshore Vodka. Longshore has

won the International Wine & Spirit

Competition Vodka Trophy twice, in

2014 and 2018.

It takes 11 hours to make

300 litres of pure alcohol.

As well as vodkas, John makes

whiskies and gin. “Developing the gin

recipes is my favourite part of the

job. I take influences from holidays,

from food... Our biggest selling gin is

the Copper House Gin. One of the

botanicals in that is hibiscus flower.

That came about because I’d been

on a diving holiday in Egypt and

when you get to the hotel they give

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BOTH SIDES OF THE LYNE ARM

GREAT

H om e br e w

you hibiscus tea. Today I’m distilling

one with habanero chillies and lime

because I’ve just been to Mexico.

We’re launching it in three months’

time but it goes into our gin club in

a week.”

Adnams is of course a much larger

brewery than Atlantic, producing

more beer and selling it further

afield. But even for a huge concern

like this, the new distillery was quick

to make an impact on the company’s

balance sheet. “It’s a small but

important part of the business,” says

John. “We’re selling a quarter of a

million bottles of spirits each year,

but it’s still small compared to the 25

million pints of beer.”

Adnams began exporting spirits

by sending a few cases of sloe gin

and absinthe to the Falkland Islands.

Now it sends them all over the world.

“We’ve got spirits in countries where

we don’t have beer,” says John. So

for Adnams too distilling has helped

spread their brand further than beer

alone.

the essence. Getting to the spirit.

It’s a process that leaves everything

it touches forever changed. And it

seems that its transformative power

can affect the distiller as much

as it does the ingredients inside

the still. I expect we will see more

brewers taking this next step on from

fermentation over the years. And I

look forward to discovering how it

changes them — hopefully for the

better.

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BEER

AWAITS

Three varieties of craft beer kits available now

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#MYOBeer

Transformation

Distillation, brewing’s arcane cousin

craft, is a lot like alchemy. Not in the

sense of mediaeval weirdos — part

wizard, part con-artist, part scientist

— hoping to turn lead into gold. But

in the way that it stemmed from

early attempts to get to the heart

of things. Distillers still talk about

heads, hearts and tails. Extracting

FERMENT MAGAZINE 49


A visit to Madrid gets Matthew Curtis thinking

about terroir and locality in hops.

LOCAL

HEROES

I

recently had the opportunity to

visit Cervecera Península, in the

Spanish capital of Madrid. This

exciting, young brewery is knocking

out the kind of beers you and I likely

fawn over; namely (but not exclusively)

hazy, juicy pale ales and IPAs. Península

has the uncanny knack of dialling the

juice levels up to 11, while still creating

beer that’s dry, drinkable and downright

delicious.

My visit coincided with a

collaboration brew between the hosts

and South London’s Anspach & Hobday.

During the latter stages of the brew,

hops were weighed out by the bucketful,

releasing heady, grapefruit aromas into

our immediate surroundings. It was then

that Península’s owner and founder,

Román Jove, scooped out a handful and

placed a few of the pelletised hops—

each a compressed nugget of intense

flavour and aroma—into my outstretched

palm.

He told me that this was Spanish

grown Cascade, from the Órbigo Valley,

to the north, near the city of León. This

was the first time, to my knowledge at

least, that I had experienced hops from

this region. Crushing it between my

hands, my skin was coated in a pungent

oil, releasing aromas of citrus rind and

freshly mowed grass as I did so. The

aroma was remarkable, and in rubbing

these hops I was immediately excited

about their potential, and what they

could impart within today’s brew.

Cascade is one of the hops that

could be credited with triggering the

modern craft beer revolution. Its use

by Californian brewers in heavily

hopped ales in the late 70s – beers

such as Anchor’s Liberty Ale and the

now ubiquitous Sierra Nevada Pale –

began to change consumer perceptions

around bitterness and aroma. It now

seems silly to think that everyday beers

such as these were revolutionary at the

time, and it’s Cascade, with its intense,

grapefruit notes, that was at the heart

of this.

While Cascade may have fallen out of

favour with some brewers over the years

(where it was once the most cultivated

hop in North America, that title now

belongs to Citra) it still maintains

popularity due to its reliability. It’s also

now cultivated in several distinct hop

growing regions outside the United

States, including the United Kingdom,

New Zealand and Spain. What’s

interesting about Cascade is that – other

than a prefix such as UK or NZ – it’s

name doesn’t change when it’s grown in

other countries. In other instances they

have been renamed; take Willamette,

for example – better known to you and I

as Fuggles, when cultivated in England.

What was remarkable to me about the

Spanish Cascade is that is bore a great

deal of resemblance to the US cultivars

I’ve managed to sample. Namely, the

hops were highly aromatic, with citrus

notes at the fore. By comparison I’ve

found hop cones from Cascade plants

grown in the UK to have completely

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DEBATE: LOCAL HEROES

different characteristics. Instead of

bright and citrusy, they are often full

of earthy, peppery notes – something

many British hops have in common. In

New Zealand the same variety will yield

crops with vinous, wine-like notes and

flavours of gooseberry.

But why does the same variety of

hop taste different when it’s grown

elsewhere? And, similarly, why did the

Spanish grown Cascade I tried give me

aromas similar to its North American

brethren?

The answer is down to a number of

physical and environmental factors.

This could be the type of soil, to the

insects that live within it or its relative

acidity or alkalinity. The plant is also

influenced by the amount of rain, sun or

extremes of temperature it is exposed

to. Handily, French winemakers coined

a term to describe how the environment

influences their grape harvest that could

equally be applied to hop farming:

Terroir.

It’s important to remember that

wine and beer terroir aren’t directly

comparable. When it comes to wine,

that winemaker will harvest grapes

from their vineyards, before pressing,

fermenting and packaging a product

that is a direct expression of place. In

beer, hops are packaged and then sent

all over the world to brewers, where

in turn they are blended with other

ingredients – chiefly barley – perhaps

removing some of the “place” inherent

in those ingredients.

However, I do believe that hops are

imbued with the character of where

they are grown, giving them their very

own sense of terroir. And this brings me

back to the similarities I experienced

The plant is also influenced

by the amount of rain, sun

or extremes of temperature

it is exposed to.

between US and Spanish Cascade. If

you were to draw your finger around the

globe, following the lines of latitude that

lead from the Órbigo Valley in northern

Spain, to the Yakima Valley in the south

of Washington State, you would not

have to deviate far from that line. The

environment is similar in both of these

places too: hot, dry days and cold nights.

Perfect conditions for hop growing.

It should come as no surprise, then,

that several other North American hop

varieties are thriving in Spain, including

Nugget, Columbus and Chinook. And

while not exactly the same, that Spanish

craft brewers like Península can brew

intensely aromatic beer using locally

cultivated hops adds an extra dimension

to the beers they’re producing.

This is what excites me the most

about hops, when talking about the

characteristics they draw from the

land that surrounds them. You can

taste the Kentish countryside when

you enjoy a pint of best bitter, and you

can be immediately transported to the

hop fields of Bavaria when enjoying

a snappy, herbaceous helles lager.

American hops are loud and full of

intensity, just like an intense Double

IPA. Australian Galaxy has all the laid

back cool you’d expect from a surfer

riding the waves at Bondi beach.

But what does any of this mean when

a brewery in Southampton is using

Nelson Sauvin shipped all the way from

New Zealand, or a brewer in Tokyo is

throwing armfuls of Yakima Valley Citra

into a “West Coast” style IPA?

Producers of wine or cider have a

unique opportunity when it comes

to selling a product that is imbued

with such a sense of place. However, I

believe brewers can tap into that too,

by celebrating the ingredients they use

and telling the story of these ingredients

to their customers. Championing local

ingredients is always a positive, but this

doesn’t always make the best beer. So if

brewers are using imported ingredients,

they need to express the importance

of this to their customers – even if that

expression is as simple as excellent

flavour and freshness.

There is, however, one other factor

to consider as we consider hop terroir,

as well as the sustainability of farming

this wonderful resource: climate change.

Not only does weather and environment

influence how your hops taste, but

the plants are also notoriously picky

about where they grow. They need cold

winters to begin germination, and then

warm summers with plenty of sunshine

and water to ensure a healthy crop.

As the Earth continues to experience

hotter summers, the cultivation of hops

– along with other crops important to

beer such as wheat and barley – could

become more challenging to grow. In

next month's issue, I’ll be exploring the

potential threat climate change could

pose to your pint. For now, the next time

you enjoy the hoppy character of your

favourite beer, give a nod to where those

hops came from, and how they might

have influenced what you’re tasting.

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WORDS: Louise Crane

Fruit

ummer is here and the sun has come out

to play (at least, while we write). Cue

strawberries and cream in front of the tennis,

stolen blackberries on a countryside walk, orangeflavoured

lollies sat on the beach and beer, glorious

beer. Fruit and beer are a delightful combination,

and we’re not the first to notice. Neolithic Chinese

villages created a beverage made up of honey, rice,

hawthorn fruit and grapes over 9,000 years ago,

and since about 1500 BCE, Egyptians celebrated

“The Festival of Drunkenness” by indulging in beer

dyed red with pomegranate juice in honour of the

ferocious lion goddess of war, Sekhmet.

Belgian fruit beer is a much more modern

invention: records show brewers buying up sour

cherries in the 1700s, while raspberry and peach

varieties were more of a nineteenth and twentieth

century thing, respectively. Today craft brewers

use their powers of experimentation to come up

with all sorts of fruity concoctions, moving away

from the sugary, syrupy kinds of the late 1900s.

The many varieties employ a wide range of recipes,

techniques and methods, so settle down with a blue

push pop (because everyone knows that blue equals

raspberry) and take a look at how to make fruit beer.

Pick your own

Choosing what fruit to go with what beer is the

first step to brewing a fruit beer. For an IPA, the

most popular fruits are those that accentuate either

the citrus or tropical character of their hops. For

example, Amarillo, Cascade and Simcoe have citrus

notes that pair really well with grapefruit or blood

orange. Tropical-tasting hops include Citra, Mosaic

and Summer Cross, so these would work with mango

or pineapple. Autumnal ingredients like plums and

blackberries compliment the richer flavours and

aromas of dark porters and stouts, and sour cherries

are the classic addition to a lambic, making kriek

beer. The newly rich and diverse range of sours

invite an infinity of fruity playfulness, from limes, to

blueberries and beyond.

Whole, mashed

or smashed?

Whether you use fresh fruit or concentrated

purée will have an impact on the end result. Fresh

fruit retains all of its taste and aroma that may

have been lost in processing, but its seasonality

restricts when you can brew with it. Washing

and pitting fresh fruit is time consuming, and

of course the microorganisms it harbours can

multiply when submerged in wort, presenting a

whole host of potential off-tastes. The alternatives -

concentrates, purées or juices - are packaged sterile

and so provide peace of mind when it comes to

contamination. An in-between option is to either

freeze fresh fruit when available, or buy in frozen

when needed. (The bonus with this is that freezing

ruptures cell walls, which allows the fruit to release

its flavours into the beer more rapidly when brewed

with.) Things to watch out for: added sugar, as it

means more of a product is needed to get enough

flavour. Added acids can contribute a slight tang

that can be unpalatable, and preservatives may

interfere with yeast.

Throwing it in

with the grains

Fresh fruits can be added to the mash, just cut up

and stirred into the grains. The sugars and fruit

flavours will dissolve into the mash and be drained

along with the wort. When the wort is boiled yeasts

or bacteria that have piggy-backed in on the fruit

will be killed, a big plus, but so too will much of

the fruit aroma, a big drawback. Another is that

the fruit flavour may have a “cooked” quality about

it, so although adding fruit to the mash is safe and

convenient, it’s not always the best option. The

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BEER SCHOOL: FRUIT BEERS

exception is for pumpkin ales, where the flavour

desired is that of the cooked fruit.

A nice, hot bath

Whether it’s before, during or after the boil, fruits

can be steeped in hot wort. If it’s fresh fruit then

it’s placed in a nylon bag either whole or in pieces,

much like a giant tea bag. Fruit can also be added

directly to the wort, and whereas fruit in a bag is

simply lifted out, this can remain to be siphoned

out as the wort goes to the fermenter. Fruit

concentrates, purées and juices are added after

the boil but before the wort is cooled below 160°F.

One drawback to this method is that the fruit will

absorb some of the wort and lower the volume, so

necessary balancing adjustments need to be made,

either by adding water at the fermenting stage or

boiling a slightly larger volume of wort.

Ferment it up

The best time to add most fruits is at the secondary

fermentation stage. It avoids that sticky “cooked”

flavour and subtle fruity aromas are retained. Whole

fruit should be washed thoroughly and have all

the stems, leaves, pits and seeds removed, then

either mashed or chopped up in a food processor

to release as much of the fruit sugars and flavours

as possible. The puréed fruit is then added to

the secondary fermenting vessel(s) and the beer

siphoned on top of it. Non-fresh fruit is simply

stirred in with the beer. Note that some brewers

don’t like to add fruit to the secondary fermentation

because the resulting mini-fermentation (from the

added fruit sugars) may bubble over, and so prefer

to add it to the end of the primary fermentation

(adding too early could upset the sugar balance

during the initial part of the fermentation process).

A secondary fermentation is still required after this

to allow the fruit sediment to settle out.

Without the sterilising action of the boil, there

is a risk of contamination but generally, beer that’s

gone through primary fermentation has enough

alcohol and a low enough pH to discourage the

growth of contaminating bacteria and fungi. To

be on the safe side, some brewers will use sulfur

dioxide to sterilize fresh fruit, a method taken from

the winemaker’s handbook. SO2 will sterilise any

microbes living in or on the fruit, and since it’s an

antioxidant, it won’t let the fruit brown while this

is happening, keeping the fruit as fresh as possible

until it’s fermentation time. Pasteurisation and

freezing are the alternatives - apart from just doing

nothing and hoping for the best. If that’s the case,

it’s double important for the fermentation vessel to

be sealed tightly, as the presence of oxygen in air

can cause microorganisms to grow on the fresh fruit

bobbing along atop the beer.

Clarify that colour

Fruit beers show off some of the most vibrant parts

of the spectrum: bright reds, golden ambers and

deep purples. To get the most out of this display,

beer should be as clear as possible. The biggest

enemy of this goal is chill haze, or rather the protein/

polyphenol (tannin) complexes in beer that cause

it. Most fruits contribute tannins to beer since it’s

found in the skins, giving colour to the fruit. PVPP

(Polyclar AT) and similar agents can be used to fine

for tannins, but this will also take away the fruit

colour and flavour of the beer. A better option is to

minimize the protein level in the base beer. Irish

moss is great for this, as is silica gel, since they target

proteins of the size that cause chill haze, but not

those that cause head retention. The other way to

reduce chill haze is to store the fruit beer cold for

at least a couple of weeks — but preferably a month

or so — after kegging or bottle-conditioning. Like

with non-fruit beers, this will cause the compounds

responsible for chill haze to sediment out of the beer,

along with most of the leftover yeast. A benefit of this

conditioning time is that the fruit flavours will have

time to blend more completely with the base beer

flavours.

Cheaters

ever prosper?

Brewing supplies companies sell fruit extracts

that you can just mix into beer at the bottling or

kegging stage. These often come across as overly

sweet, artificial and unintegrated, but they’re a

quick way for a homebrewer to add a fruity flavour

to their brew. Another shortcut is to simply mix

unfermented fruit juice with beer, which is really

just a shandy or in Germany, the more grown-up

sounding Biermischgetränke.

56 FERMENT MAGAZINE FERMENT MAGAZINE 57


It’s one of the world’s most infamous

road races. Katie Mather revisits

the Isle of Man TT, to find out what

motivates the riders and devoted fans.

Peter Hickman with Ian Hutchinston RST Superbike TT Race

We haven’t even

arrived at Heysham

ferry port yet and

our bags have already been thrown

across a potholed car park. “Sorry

mate,” they say with a shrug in the

pub with the ‘£5 day TT parking - cash

only’ sign in the window. “Need the

space for guests.” Beyond the barren

expanse of greying tarmac, the nuclear

powerstation bears down on our

insignificant misery. Spinning the car

around to dump it anywhere, we have

just 30 minutes to get to the boat.

We reach the ferry terminal, loaded

with a week’s worth of camping gear,

in time to watch a slow parade of

motorbikes snake up into the dark; a

four-stroke roar with a distant twostroke

brap soundtracking a thousand

blank visors. Inside, a portable bar on

silver castors was starting to pack up.

I break into a run; don’t put that away,

we need you. Two Guinnesses are

drunk in record time. We made it.

On board, the visors are stripped

away to reveal faces braced for five

hours at sea. Three pints in, the

weather grips us and the boat begins

to corkscrew through the water,

hurtling towards the rock we’re aiming

for, through waves that lash the

windows and soak smokers on deck.

A boy and his proud parents

show us his bike helmet, signed by

his favourite racers. “He’s met John

McGuinness seven times,” beams

mum. A man heaves up his lunch deal

somewhere in the stairwell.

***

A friend arrives to kidnap us in a

van as soon as we’ve set up camp. It

belongs to Richard, who’s racing this

week, and driven by team mechanic

Dan, who is introduced to us as the

seventh-best trials rider in the UK. He

tells me it’s a lie.

“Probably a lie,” corrects Richard.

The side door slides open and a

hand reaches out of the dark. We get

in, the door slams and we roll off into

the evening. When we skid to a stop in

Douglas, a grey swipe of emulsion lies

where the horizon should be.

Richard’s stressed and frustrated.

The weather hasn’t eased off all week

– nobody can remember when it was

ever this bad. He says that a mate of

his is banned from visiting on race

week because with his arrival comes

rain. He’s a bad omen. That’s how I

feel now.

I expect grizzled ponytails and

intimidatingly-patched leather

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COLD ALE AND CHAIN GREASE

waistcoats to line the bar at our first

stop, but instead we find gin balloons,

sharp elbows and surreptitious vaping.

We stay for one – an Okells bitter –

and exit out the fire escape.

Across the road, the Hooded Ram

brewery’s taproom beckons, based on

our recollection of its beers we drank

at the TT last year. In front of the pub,

Douglas harbour sleeps, rippled and

purple in the late dusk.

Like Okells, Hooded Ram is local

to the Isle of Man, but its focus is on

hop-forward styles. There’s a definite

sense, in this pub at least, that the

breweries attract very different

punters. For one thing, people want to

talk about the beer they’re drinking,

rather than how the weather’s

affecting their Dunlops. From here we

lose the racer and his mechanic (early

The Horse and Plough

start tomorrow) so us remaining few

continue getting reacquainted with

the local pubs, retracing memories in

the dark.

***

The white noise of light rain on tent

canvas wakes me up before I open

my eyes. I know it’s early. I give up on

a lie in and grab my jacket, unzip my

tomb, and follow the smell of frying

bacon and slightly burnt coffee. At the

campsite café, I find an abandoned

adventure bike magazine, its photos of

dry dust and Spanish mountain ranges

seeming brutally unfair given the

enclosing black clouds softly blurring

the landscape around me. The rooks

flying wheezily overhead foretell a

raceless day. They are right.

People want to talk about

the beer they’re drinking,

rather than how the weather’s

affecting their Dunlops.

***

It’s Sunday, and our friend’s last day on

the island. The watery sun is weakly

illuminating a low, white sky, and

we’re listening intently to the fizz of

our radio scrunching through ghost

signals to get to Manx Radio’s schedule

announcements.

Engines start up all around us.

The campsite suddenly crawls with

life. A man literally “woohoo”s. An

announcement from the paddocks cuts

through the feedback: roads are closing

in 45 minutes. Qualifying will go ahead

today. We chuck snacks and cans into

a bag and hike six hundred miles up a

million vertical back streets to Douglas.

Watching racers hurtle down Bray

Hill feels like handing someone my

lungs to hold and watching as they let

them almost slip from their arms, over

and over again. Each distinctive roar

from the starting line opens up into a

flash of noise and colour across a tiny

frame, burning an imprint of wheels,

leathers and metal into my brain. I’m

hyperfocused and on edge, out of

practice as a spectator and fretting about

safety, thinking too hard about each

racer’s face beneath their visors.

Some invisible undulation in the

road directly in front of us is catching

riders out, throwing front tyres into

a wobble. Michael Rutter lands his

Bathams Honda RCV like he’s riding a

ram through a supermarket. I can feel my

head lightening and my hands freezing

into fists. I’m panicking, and I can’t look

away from the road, which has begun to

rise up from the earth and ripple away

towards Quarterbridge, cracking and

breaking and fading away. A hand lands

on my shoulder and I disintegrate.

And then it’s over. Our first TT race of

the year.

“Was alright that, wa’n’t it?”

I nod, and take a calming swig from

my can.

***

After the last race of the day finishes,

Douglas transforms into a festival

around us. Now the real drinking can

begin. The pavement rumbles from

Little Switzerland to Douglas as a tide

of spectators bursts from behind the

road barriers and into the town’s heavily

prepared pubs. To accommodate the

rush, Bushy’s TT Village infiltrates some

of the rush on the Victorian promenade.

This fringe beer festival is integral to the

unofficial TT experience, and its main

stage, street food, bars and merch stand

serve as the discerning TT-goer’s main

drinking location.

For me, it means two choices: Bushy’s

Norseman lager, or the hoppy, pleasingly

bitter, good for-several-pints-withoutregretting-your-choice,

Shuttleworth

Snap. I have one of each, and let the

happy bassline of laughing bikers help

me to relax. I start to smile at strangers.

Craving seats and proper pint glasses,

we walk into town for a session at The

Rovers Return. Two Norsemen are

poured and pushed into my hands

before I get to the bar. Two nights out

in Douglas and we’re already regulars

here. In the tiny snug near the jukebox

Bushy's TT Village 2019

– blasting Iron Maiden’s The Trooper

(of course) – we’re blurrily scrutinising a

black and white photo of the nineteeneighty-something

Blackburn Rovers

team. The previous owner was a fan,

apparently.

From deep within a haze of softly

landing pints I’m shouted into the main

bar by the shape of a man who’s hand

I briefly shook a day ago on two hours’

sleep. I’m to meet Curly, one of Bushy’s

brewers, right now. A bit of roomspin

shouldn’t be a problem.

Curly says he started as a driver

before they asked him to help out in the

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COLD ALE AND CHAIN GREASE

Ian Hutchinston TT2019 Qualifying

brewery.

“I like making real beer,” he said.

“None of this fake ingredient shit. I like

real beer I can taste everything in.”

Is he mad he has to make lager?

“Nah,” he says. “I get to make it

properly, we lager it for at least five

weeks, and you can taste that it’s good.

Do you like it?”

I do, Curly. I do. But I need to go home

now.

***

“It’s the worst weather we’ve had since

‘81,” says Martin, taking an authoritative

sip of Okells bitter. Martin was born in

Ramsey and we’ve never met before,

but we’re getting on like a house on fire.

We’re stood at the bar at The Plough

in Ramsey because we’ve given up on

the Ramsey Sprint. Unlike the hardcore

crowd lining the promenade for the

traditional drag race, a bit of torrential

rain was enough to convince us to head

indoors.

“You ought to come for the Southern

100,” he says. “It’s better. Oh, the TT is

good, but it’s nothing compared to the

100. Or the Classic. Or the Manx Grand

Prix.”

He tells us about the racers he’s seen,

nodding his head while he remembers

the wins of his favourite riders, tracing

well-worn memories through the 60s,

70s and 80s.

The pub’s only local beer is Okells

Bitter which I know well, so I choose one

from home. My pint of Landlord is fresh

and clean, and I’m drinking it in gulps.

It’s June but the fire’s roaring and I’m

lulled by rushing waves of conversation

I can barely understand: superstock

hybrids, practice timings, problems with

They do it because they

want to do it. They’d do it

even if nobody was watching.

McGuinness’ Norton, German, Dutch,

French, heavy accents, badly tuned

radios. I could stay here forever, folded

in a corner, quietly observing the racing

seasons as they come and go. We say

goodbye before I become attached.

***

The next day we’re sat in the front

garden of Union Mills Methodist Church

with around 60 spectators clutching

mugs of tea, waiting for thick clouds

to pass back overhead so the sun can

warm my skin.

Union Mills is my favourite spot

to watch the racing from. There are

definitely scarier places, like the verge at

Glenlough near Ballagary where Dean

Harrison flew past so close he ripped

my soul from my body, but here it’s easy.

You can watch the bikes dance through

the s-bend that links each roadside

home into a village, trying every time

to be the first to spot them as they tip

round the bend and down the hill past

the Railway pub.

The distant chopping of the race

helicopter is our starting gun. We stand

up out of our chairs, waiting for the

scream of the first Superbikes to reach

us and here’s Connor Cummins first –

leaning over, then banking towards us in

slow-motion, then shooting off leaving

reverberations behind.

We’re suddenly alone, far away from

the people we’ve come to see, sat in

rows along a country lane drinking

cans of lager, with nothing but radio

commentary linking us to our reason for

existing.

Later, I ask Richard why he rides if he

knows he’s risking his life. He shrugs.

“That’s the way it is,” was his

underwhelming reply. Typical racer.

In the press they ask riders the same

questions every year: why do you do

it? Are spectators to blame for pushing

racers too hard? Their answers rarely

vary. They do it because they want to

do it. They’d do it even if nobody was

watching.

I get asked a similar, albeit less

intense question every year too. Why

do I do it? Why do I spend so much

time on the Isle of Man to be rained

on, to live in a tent, to wait around for

announcements, to watch bikes flash

past me in a split second?

The Isle of Man is a beautiful and

brilliant place, but that’s not it. I went to

the TT for the first time in the early 90s,

when I was a giddy kid in an oversized

Kawasaki jacket. Foggy became my hero.

I wore a hat and a t-shirt with his name

on for months. Then I grew up, decided I

had other interests, and bikes faded out

of my life. Rediscovering my love for this

weird, dangerous sport has brought back

part of me I didn’t know I’d forgotten.

On our way back from the ferry

terminal to the car, a line of bikes

from the same shipment rode past us,

heading the same way, going home from

the TT for another year. I couldn’t help

it. I waved at them all.

“See you next year!”

Almost all of them waved back. I was

six years old, glittering with joy.

I guess you just have to be there.

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ILLUSTRATION : Eva Dolgyra

Melissa Cole looks at the future of cask and finds little cause for optimism

ight, before I start this

column, which I just know

is going to see more than

a few people getting salty

with me on socials, I want to

make one thing very clear: I

love cask beer.

My beer epiphany was Rooster’s Cream,

served at about 10 0 C, and it blew me away;

if I absolutely had to choose a desert island

beer, that would probably be it because it

changed my feelings about beer forever. A

rush of sensory pleasure that was quickly

cemented by a sublime pint of Kelham

Island Pale Rider; no wonder I married the

son of the woman who introduced me to it,

thanks Pam!

However, at the risk of sounding like a

tedious old fart, cask ain’t what it ought to

be in too many venues now and I’m deeply

worried about it, not only immediately but

for the future too.

In the rush to keep up with ‘craft’,

handpull lines are fast disappearing from

our bars and pubs, the latter of which are

also closing at an alarming rate. All too

often, I go into places I’ve frequented on

and off for years, and upon trying two or

three of the casks, I now just take a look

at the keg beer and order from there and I

know I’m not alone.

But why is this such a problem and

what makes the industry, and drinkers, so

resistant to evolving this format?

Speaking with a well-respected London

publican the other week, who keeps one

of the finest pints of cask ale around, he

was rhapsodising about the Caskwidge

system. A perceived traditional brewer

I know, has seen an enormous uptick in

customer spend and attraction at his tap

room since he started serving real ales at

8 0 C from a tank that has a CO 2 head on it

and another multi award-winning landlord

told me the key is to have the cellar at 11 0 C

and the python set to 8 0 C; all of them serve

amazing pints but all go about it different

ways.

Interestingly, when I put a poll on Twitter

(not exactly scientific, I know, but bear with

me), I asked three questions about paler

beers, which make up the majority of beer

sales in the UK.

Cask ain’t what it

ought to be in too

many venues now

The questions were: Serve cooler, e.g.

8 0 C; serve cooler and in two thirds, or leave

it alone; the results, in order, were 37%, 14%

and 44% - which puts the cooler serve in

the lead in total, although two thirds not as

popular as I’d thought it would be.

What was really telling though, were

the comments; nearly everyone who

commented that it should be left alone,

were talking about ‘if it’s kept correctly’,

‘I voted to leave it alone but too many

places aren’t doing so’ and so on and so on,

which, to me, shows a very odd attitude of

wanting to keep things as they are whilst

also seeing the problem that there is. And

please be assured that I am not advocating

conditioning at this low temperature,

merely making sure that it is served at a

more palatable one.

Anyway, going back to my comments

about the differing ways that people are

going about serving their beer shows me

that this is part of the problem.

I know it’s a heady and tangled mix of

issues, just some of which are pubcos,

under-investment, beer ties, high taxes

and zero ullage allowances but it’s

also down to years of archaic attitudes to

‘how it should be done’, and a significant

downturn in the art of the cellar, and it is

giving me distinct collywobbles about how

beer is being kept and, more importantly,

how the craft of caring for it is

increasingly being ignored.

With all the love and respect

in the world to the people I

spoke to, they are all above

50 and whilst I know that

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they are individually training future cellar

devotees, they are just too few and far

between to inspire confidence in the future

of cask.

And much as I’d like to talk more

informatively about how Brewdog’s ‘new’

system may, or may not, be an answer here,

I’m afraid that the offer of talking to me

about it was made and then all emails on

the subject seemingly ignored; perhaps I

was asking all the right questions, just not

necessarily in the right order.

But, to return to my point about

temperature, I decided to try a little

experiment at home, with a temperature

probe and a glass of 11 0 C beer; within 90

seconds of pouring the beer (probably the

average time it takes to pour and pay for a

pint) into the glass, without me even holding

it, it had increased to 12 0 C and by holding it

for another two and taking a mere two sips,

it had risen to 14 0 C and I was rapidly losing

interest in drinking it, it was going flat and

flabby.

The same (or as similar as you can get in a

non-lab environment) experiment repeated

with 8 0 C beer, saw it warm to 11 0 C about

two inches from the bottom of the glass and

made me happy to finish it to the bottom.

Yes, I know this is somewhat about

personal preference, and I am most certainly

not trying to make cask beer into ‘evil keg

filth’, and I am not even suggesting that 8 0 C

is the perfect serve, what I am saying is that

the system is flawed, places that are serving

at 8 0 C are gaining or retaining customers

(and awards) and everything that sets itself

up as a bastion of saving cask seems to be

failing to notice this.

We need a root and

branch overhaul of

how cask is perceived

Cask Marque is not, I’m afraid, something

I can get behind. I have been in far too

many pubs with the blue plaque on them

and with warm, under-conditioned beer,

and an indifference to training the staff

about cask that is bordering on negligence

that I cannot believe it is doing much good

- not to mention it insists on pythons being

set to 10-14 0 C and, checking the comments

below that survey and others made in the

past, I know I’m not alone in this.

CAMRA too has entirely lost its way,

something I sincerely hope that its new

chief executive Tom Stainer is going to

arrest. Instead of pitifully campaigning

for the breadcrumbs of pennies off a pint,

which most consumers will never see and

certainly does zero for the pubs serving

cask ale, other than further devalue an

already woefully under-priced artisan

product, why is it not putting all those

funds and resources into free cask cellar

skills seminars up and down the country?

And, as for GBBF, well I had to give it a

miss last year after 2017’s experience on

trade day that saw me break my 10 year vow

of only drinking UK beers at what should,

in my opinion, only be a showcase for UK

beer and visiting the foreign beer bars in

a desperate search for something that was

drinkable outside of the brewery-run bars.

This was mostly to stave off a heavy falling

out with yet another volunteer who wouldn’t

know green beer if it reached up and bit

them on the bum. I have higher hopes that

the new team in place will have things under

better control this year.

But it’s also important to point out that

breweries are often heavily at fault too. I see

wholesaler after wholesaler beating their

heads on their desks about breweries putting

palettes of beer on trucks in the blazing

heat or, even worse, leaving them in yards to

cook in the sun before dispatching them and

then there’s other wholesalers that put beers

in thin panel trucks

to cook on motorways

before delivering them. And in all

the gloom, I should mention that wholesale

businesses like Jolly Good Beer, with its

commitment to cold chain, and breweries

like Cloudwater deserve great recognition

for the efforts they are making, and even

Doom Bar is trialling a two temperature

serve method.

My point in all this is, if we want to save

cask beer in this country, we need a root and

branch overhaul of how cask is perceived

and, more importantly, how it is handled.

The brewer I mentioned earlier that

serves at 8 0 C calls it ‘our champagne’

and he’s right, it is our unique product,

nowhere else in the world has the

cask culture we do and if we don’t do

something more proactive to protect

it and, perhaps more importantly, make

it appealing to future generations I fear

for its survival - perhaps shaking off the

shackles of current serving temperature

doctrine is the very least we could be

doing, but there is so much more to be

done than just that.

Next month: Glass theft, I’ll be

popping up another poll on Twitter

on your thoughts around glass

theft, so keep an eye out for it.

66 FERMENT MAGAZINE

FERMENT MAGAZINE 67


TAKING IT EASY

SINCE 2001.

EASY TRAIL SESSION IPA

AVAILABLE NOW.

The dynamic trio

W

hat do you get when

you combine one of the

Bermondsey Beer Mile’s

most restlessly creative, innovative

and (often) downright weird breweries

with the beery might of Guinness’

experimental Open Gate Brewery?

The answer is every bit as intriguing as

you might hope: three limited edition

beers inspired by Europe’s ‘aperitivo’

bar tradition, brewed in collaboration

with one of the capital’s hippest foodinfluenced

mixologists.

Guinness Open Gate Brewery head

brewer, Peter Simpson, and Partizan

Brewing founder, Andy Smith, worked

closely with world-renowned mixologist

Alex Kratena when creating the beers.

Kratena brought his vast knowledge of

cocktails and aperitifs to the table, and

hosted the launch party at his newly

opened first bar, Tayēr + Elementary, in

June.

La Brillante is a traditional pilsner

that riffs on Champagne character, aged

in Oloroso sherry barrels and presented

in 750ml cork and cage Champagne

style bottles. L’Amara (our favourite

of the three) is a dry and delicate

saison with botanicals, which borrows

characteristics from the Amaro highball.

Saving the weirdest to last (in a good

way, we promise) L’Intensa is a rich,

dark and complex ale, using botanicals

sourced from Santa Vittoria Italy for a

spicy punch and dry, tannic finish.

GOGB and Partizan Brewing may

seem a bit of an unusual pairing, but

Andy says the opportunity to work with

his peers from a different part of the

industry was a very fulfilling creative

experience. “We at Partizan have

always been inspired by the melting pot

culture of the city we live and work in

and always relish opportunities to break

out of the echo chamber, eschewing

the easy, cliquey, commercially driven

partnerships that often present

themselves and looking for more diverse,

interesting projects to work on.”

The collaboration saw Peter travelling

with Andy to Northern Italy, to gather

inspiration and experiment with new

recipes by dissecting classic formulas.

“We've been working on these three

beers for nearly a year,” says Peter.

“We are always looking to explore

new recipes, interpret old ones and

experiment to bring exciting new beers

to life at the Guinness Open Gate

Brewery.”

As with all of Partizan’s brews, the

unique label artwork was provided by

Ferment favourite Alec Doherty. All

three are available to try now at Tayēr

+ Elementary (Old Street, London),

Partizan Brewery (Bermondsey, London),

Guinness’ Open Gate Brewery (Dublin)

and at: https://www.eebria.com/partizan

68 FERMENT MAGAZINE

www.fyneales.com

FERMENT MAGAZINE 69


Ireland caught the dark beer bug from

England at exactly the same time

that porter really started taking off,

at the tail end of the 19th century. From

that point, though, the two traditions

followed rather different paths. Irish

stout is distinct in its use of roasted

barley (as opposed to the black roasted

malt of English porter), which gives it a

signature coffee sharpness. A quantity

of unmalted barley is also commonly

included in the mash bill, giving stout

a smoother, creamier mouthfeel.

Stout has historically been brewed

slightly stronger than porters, though

trends in craft beer have seen a strong

resurgence in the former, which is now

being brewed at ever-stronger ABVs.

NO TEXT OR LOGO IN THIS AREA

FERMENT MAGAZINE

71


3 recipes that promise to blow away

your dinner party guests!

RECIPES & PHOTOS: Alex Paganelli

FOOD STYLIST: Joshua Noon

Deep Fried Courgette Flower

with Saffron Mayonnaise

INGREDIENTS:

• 6 courgette flowers

• 100g of potato starch

• 100g of low protein cake flour

• 1 tsp of bicarbonate of soda

• 1 tbsp of milk

• 1 can of cold lager

• 50g of tomato powder (substitute:

paprika and cayenne pepper)

• few saffron threads

• 200g of mayonnaise

• 1 tsp of lemon juice

• bunch of basil

• bunch of dill

• bunch of parsley

• some vegetable oil (for deep frying)

1. SAFFRON MAYONNAISE

Add a couple of teaspoons of saffron threads

and let them rest for a few hours. Once the

liquid has turned dark red, discard the threads

and add the liquid to the mayonnaise. Adjust the

flavour with a touch of lemon juice and some salt

to taste.

2. BATTER

Combine potato starch and flour in a bowl. In a

small pot heat the bicarbonate of soda with the

milk until dissolved. Cool and add to the flours.

With a whisk, gradually add the cold lager until

you have a thick batter that resembles a loose

pancake mix. It should be smooth and elastic.

3. ASSEMBLING

Heat the oil to around 180C (use a thermometer

or a deep fryer if you have one). Dip the

courgette flowers into the batter (I only dip the

flower, not the stem) and cook for 2 minutes.

Drain onto some kitchen towel and dust with

the tomato powder (or mix of paprika / cayenne

if using). Add a touch of salt and garnish with

freshly chopped dill, basil and parsley. Serve

with a drop of the saffron mayo.

72 FERMENT MAGAZINE FERMENT MAGAZINE 73


Red Onion, Anchovy & Lavender

Flatbread

INGREDIENTS:

• 500g strong white bread flour

• 250g of 00 italian fine flour

• 1 sachet of 6g of yeast

• 10 garlic cloves

• 100ml of olive oil (for the aioli)

• 100ml of olive oil

(for the onions & tapenade)

• 3 red onions

• 200g black olives

• a few sprigs of dried lavender

• 10 quality anchovies

(from a fish monger)

• bunch of chives

• handful of chive flowers

• handful of white violas

(or other flowers)

1. DOUGH (FOR 10 FLATBREADS)

The day before, mix 250g of strong white bread flour

to 250g of water and 1/8th of a teaspoon of yeast.

Mix well until you have a thick paste and cover with a

damp cloth. Leave to rise over night (12hrs). This will

be your dough starter.

The next morning, the starter should be bubbly

and at least doubled in size. Now you can add 150g

of water to a measuring cup and 5g of dried yeast.

Stir until the yeast has ‘melted’ into the water and

pour into the bowl containing the dough starter. Now

you can add 500g of flour (I like to use half strong

bread flour and half type 00, the fine Italian one), a

generous tablespoon of olive oil and 15g of salt.

With your hands, combine all the ingredients

together and transfer to a working bench.

Dust with a little flour and knead the dough until

smooth, for about 20 minutes. Now place into a fresh

bowl and knock the dough back every time it doubles

in volume. The more you knock it back the better

your dough will be. In summer when temperatures

in my kitchen are high, I knock the dough back at

least 3 or 4 times a day before using it in the evening.

(Once you’ve knocked the dough back at least twice,

you can also store it in the fridge for another 48hrs.)

2. PREPARE THE TOPPINGS

Lavender aioli: Add 10 garlic cloves and a sprig of

dried lavender to a pot filled with 100ml of olive oil.

Heat very slowly until the garlic is soft (about 20

minutes).

Transfer the cloves and lavender to a food

processor (keep the oil separate for now and cool

it down) and blend until smooth. Add a teaspoon

of mustard and blend some more. Now gradually

add the cold oil until the aioli has thickened. Add a

drop of lemon juice to taste and salt if needed. Pass

through a fine sieve to remove unwanted bits of

lavender and store in a squeeze bottle.

Red onions: Slice 3 red onions and brown them in a

hot pan for a couple of minutes with some olive oil

and a generous pinch of salt. Turn the heat down and

cover. Cook for about 20 minutes until the onions

have softened and lightly caramelised. Stir regularly.

Tapenade: Finely chop the black olives and add a

tablespoon of olive oil and some salt to taste.

Chives: finely chop

3. ASSEMBLING

A couple of hours before baking the dough, shape

into ball of roughly 100g and leave to rise under a

damp cloth until doubled in volume.

Meanwhile place an oven tray on the top shelf of

your oven and put on fan mode at 250C (or maximum

you can go). Let your oven heat up for at least 30

minutes to an hour before baking the flatbread.

When the oven is hot enough and the dough has

risen, take a ball of dough and transfer to a clean

work surface. Lay your dough on a generous handful

of flour and flatten the centre first, working your way

towards the edges by rotating the dough until you

have a small pizza like shape. Keep a small border for

a thicker crust around the edges.

Add the red onions, dried lavender, a drizzle of

oil and a pinch of salt. Using a pizza peel or a thin

chopping board (if easier you can also keep the

flatbread on baking paper to avoid sticking), transfer

to the hot oven tray and cook for about 6 to 7

minutes.

When ready, blow torch the crust to give a little

colour and garnish with one anchovy, the tapenade,

chopped chives, chive flowers and violas.

74 FERMENT MAGAZINE FERMENT MAGAZINE 75


Vegan Rosemary Caramel Ice Cream

with Apricots & Soft Marshmallow

INGREDIENTS:

• 250g white sugar (caramel)

• 300g white sugar (ice cream)

• 400g white sugar (marshmallow)

• 50g glucose (caramel)

• 100g glucose (marshmallow)

• 90g butter (or soy)

• 60g almond milk (caramel)

• 250g almond milk (ice cream)

• 300g cashews (soaked over night)

• 15g coconut buter

• 15g cocoa butter

• 1g xanthan gum (ice cream)

• 2g xanthan gum (marshmallow)

• 6g agar agar powder

• 1tsp vanilla paste or fresh vanilla pod (ice

cream)

• 1tsp vanilla paste or fresh vanilla pod

(marshmallow)

• 1 tin of chickpeas

(brine only, discard the chickpeas)

• 2 sprigs of fresh rosemary

• 4 apricots

• 200g pine nuts

• 2tbsp of liquor (brandy or similar)

1. ROSEMARY CARAMEL

In a pot, bring 250g of sugar, 50g of glucose and 75g

of water to 175C using a candy thermometer. Take off

the heat and whisk in the 90g of butter all at once until

smooth. Then gradually add the 60g of almond milk

until all combined. Add the rosemary and return to a

simmer for just a few minutes until the rosemary is really

fragrant. Let the caramel cool, discard the rosemary and

place the caramel in the fridge.

2. VANILLA ICE CREAM

Once the cashews have soaked over night, discard the

soaking water and transfer to a high power blender.

Add enough fresh water to cover the nuts and blend

until you have a thick milk consistency. It should be

bubbly and smooth like non-dairy milk (not thick like a

cream). Pass through a fine sieve to remove unwanted

lumps and return to the blender.

In a pot on low heat, melt 300g of sugar, 75g of

water, 15g of coconut butter and 15g of cocoa butter.

Gradually add to the cashew milk on low speed. Then

add the 250g of almond milk, the vanilla paste of pods

and the 1g of xanthan gum and blend until thickened

slightly. Transfer to a bowl and cool completely before

churning in your ice cream maker.

Once the custard has cooled and set, place in your

ice cream maker and churn until thick. Transfer to a

container and layer with some of the rosemary caramel.

Don’t attempt a swirl, as the caramel is too thick. Instead

it’s best to work in layers, start with a little ice cream

and drizzle some of the caramel over it. Repeat until

you have 3 or 4 layers. Keep some of the caramel for

serving later. Freeze the ice cream for a few hours

before serving.

3. SOFT MARSHMALLOW

You can do this the day before and keep covered in the

fridge.

In a bowl whisk the chickpea juice (aquafaba) and

1g of xanthan gum until thickened like egg whites.

Add the vanilla paste at this point and whisk until all

incorporated.

Meanwhile in a pan heat the 400g of sugar, 130g of

water, 100g of glucose and 6g of agar to 120C using a

candy thermometer.

Once the sugar syrup has reached 120C, gently

pour onto the whipped aquafaba in one steady stream

while whisking. Whisk for a couple of minutes until the

sugar syrup has been fully incorporated but don’t whisk

for too long otherwise the marshmallow will collapse.

Transfer to a tray lined with baking paper and brushed

with a little oil and let it cool for a couple of hours.

4. APRICOTS

Finely chop the apricots and let them sit for an hour or

two in a little sugar, 2tbsp of liquor (brandy or similar)

and a sprig of the rosemary.

5. PINE NUTS

Toast the pine nuts for a few minutes in a pan and blend

into a thick sand consistency. Add a little sea salt.

6. ASSEMBLING

In a bowl, add 3 scoops of the rosemary caramel ice

cream, and drizzle some of the rosemary caramel

over it. Add a few spoons of the apricots in liquor, and

the salted pine nuts. Blow torch a little piece of the

marshmallow and place on top.

76 FERMENT MAGAZINE FERMENT MAGAZINE 77


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78 FERMENT MAGAZINE

FERMENT MAGAZINE 79


dark arts

Magic Rock

YORKSHIRE

CORNWALL

draymer

Harbour

ABV: 6% Enjoy at 10°C

Style: Stout

ABV: 3.8% Enjoy at 8°C

Style: Pale Ale

TASTING NOTES

Beer of four malts and bags of whole hops to deliver a

decadently deep and indulgent experience. A luxuriously

smooth mouthfeel, followed by spicy hop notes and full

flavours of chocolate, liquorice, blackberries and figs. The

finish is rich and satisfying with a lingering roasted bitterness.

MAGIC ROCK BREWING

Inspired by local brewing

traditions and the vibrant US

craft beer scene, Magic Rock

Brewing is the culmination of a

lifelong passion for beer. Richard

Burhouse (aided by head brewer

Stuart Ross) started the brewery

in 2011 in an old out-building of

the family business (an importer

of crystals and natural gifts) in

Huddersfield, West Yorkshire.

HARBOUR BREWING CO.

In 2012, The Harbour Brewing Co. was

just a fledgling idea: to brew proper

beer reflecting the land (and shores)

from where it came. Taking the best

raw ingredients - awesome hops,

Cornish spring water tapped straight

from the source - and bringing them to

life through dedication to technique.

The concept evolved by the ocean but

the beer came into being on the farm.

There is joy in returning to the roots

of the ingredients. And the heritage

of the space, of the land, of the ocean,

remain our inspiration.

TASTING NOTES

Draymer - named after a beautiful bay near the

brewery - is a bright golden pale ale brewed with

Sucrose and Vienna malts and uses Saaz, Celeia,

Mosaic & Citra hops for a pine & lemon aroma, jellied

citrus fruit flavour and clean, crisp finish.

dancing bier

Magic Rock

YORKSHIRE

CORNWALL

helltown

Harbour

ABV: 4.5% Enjoy at 6°C

Style: German Lager

TASTING NOTES

Munich and Golden Promise malts

create the pale colour and classic

backbone, while a concoction of

Germany’s finest Magnum, Saphir

Whole Leaf and Hallertau hops

deliver a refined bitterness and

characteristic herbal hit. True

to style we used soft water, a

bottom fermenting yeast strain

and extended cold maturation to

deliver the style’s distinctive subtle

depth. A lightness of body and

spritzy carbonation will make the

beer dance on your palate and a

refreshingly crisp finish will keep

you coming back for more.

ABV: 5.8% Enjoy at 8°C

Style: West Coast Pale

TASTING NOTES

A classic West Coast style

made in the South West of

England. With an aroma of

freshly cut citrus, the taste

is light and crisp, with a dry,

bitter and refreshing finish.

80 FERMENT MAGAZINE

FERMENT MAGAZINE 81


cali american pale

Tiny Rebel

NEWPORT

LEEDS

Origin

Northern Monk

ABV: 5.6% Enjoy at 8°C

Style: American Pale Ale

ABV: 5.7% Enjoy at 7°C

Style: Gluten-free IPA

TASTING NOTES

Cali American Pale is inspired by the rough and ready

of the West Coast. Things aren’t always sunshine and

lollipops. Forget Beverley Hills. If you want to see the real

West Coast, you need to see the streets of Compton and

Westmont. Don’t let the juicy, tropical fruit flavours fool you.

TINY REBEL

Founded in Brad’s garage in

2012, Brad and Gazz set out

to produce the most exciting

and experimental Craft Beer in

the UK. After winning multiple

awards it quickly realised there

was a love for its beer and

brand worldwide. Tiny Rebel

has just one rule…’Never just

make vanilla ice cream’.

NORTHERN MONK

Northern Monk combines the best

of traditional monastic brewing

values with a progressive approach

to ingredients and techniques.

Honed in the spiritual heart of the

industrial revolution, the brewery

takes thousands of years of brewing

heritage and tradition and combines

them with the best local and

internationally sourced ingredients.

TASTING NOTES

A homage to the origins of IPA and the evolution

of this style. Piney, juicy and crisp, gluten-free and

vegan. The evolution of tradition.

easy livin'

Tiny Rebel

NEWPORT

CUMBRIA

Windermere

Hawkshead

ABV: 4.3% Enjoy at 6°C

Style: Session Ale

ABV: 3.5% Enjoy at 6°C

Style: Pale Ale

TASTING NOTES

Some days it's OK to put

your feet up, that's why

we've made a beer that lets

you kick back and relax.

Wind down with the smell of

citrus, a tropical taste, and

a perfectly smooth finish.

Whether you're out sunning

by the BBQ or sat on a

session at the tap house,

you'll be in a happy place

with Easy Livin'.

HAWKSHEAD BREWERY

Based in the heart of the English Lake

District, brewers of bold, innovative

beers since 2002, their beer range is

eclectic and includes thirst quenching

session beers, big hopped pale ales,

deep dark stouts and sours. With a

range of core beers, available in cask,

keg, bottle and can. At Hawkshead

Brewery they make the sort of beer you

like to drink - distinctive, full of flavour,

handmade, and perfectly crafted.

TASTING NOTES

A very pale ale bursting with hop flavour from the

signature hop - Citra. Brewed with soft Lakeland water,

Maris Otter malted barley and whole cone hops. Best

enjoyed after a long walk or camping with friends.

82 FERMENT MAGAZINE

FERMENT MAGAZINE 83


liss point

Thornbridge

DERBYSHIRE

DERBYSHIRE

elio summer ale

Thornbridge

TASTING NOTES

An unfined and extremely crisp pale ale with tropical fruit

characters, namely Papaya, Passionfruit and Guava from

the American hop profile which features Cascade, Simcoe,

Citra & Azacca. An ideal beer for a summer festival.

ABV: 5% Enjoy at 8°C

Style: Hazy Pale

THORNBRIDGE

One of the pioneers of the UK

craft beer scene, Thornbridge

has been brewing the finest

quality beer since its humble

beginnings in 2005. Not

only quality, but consistency

and innovation are key to

Thornbridge's success.

Creators of award winning

beers loved by our customers

all over the world.

ABV: 4.7% Enjoy at 6°C

Style: Summer Ale

TASTING NOTES

Light, fresh and hugely

drinkable. Elio is the

perfect accompaniment

to those long summer

days. Elio is a spanish

name meaning 'sun'.

market porter

Thornbridge

DERBYSHIRE

ARGYLL

easy trail ipa

Fyne Ales

ABV: 4.5% Enjoy at 10°C

Style: Porter

ABV: 4.2% Enjoy at 6°C

Style: Session IPA

TASTING NOTES

Named after the

Thornbridge pub in York

- The Market Cat. This is

a smooth, robust creamy

porter with a hint of coffee

to finish. Made with six

different malts for a complex

but approachable taste. A

lower ABV to be enjoyed

outside with the BBQ.

FYNE ALES

Fyne Ales is a family-owned

farm brewery based in Argyll,

Scotland. When it was founded

in 2001, the goal was not only

to make the best quality beer,

but to bring jobs, industry

and life back to our quiet,

rural corner of the country.

It's continued brewing in this

spirit ever since. Working with

its environment and brewing

in former farm buildings, it

creates modern, progressive

and award-winning beers.

TASTING NOTES

Easy Trail's flavour profile is all about balance - delivering

the perfect mix of juicy berry and clean citrus notes up

front, with a refreshing finish showcasing crip, piney notes.

Inspired by leisurely walks through rural Scotland - the

perfect pick-up, go-to, fridge-filler to be enjoyed however

and whenever you feel the need for refreshment.

84 FERMENT MAGAZINE

FERMENT MAGAZINE 85


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86 FERMENT MAGAZINE

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FERMENT MAGAZINE 87


COCKTAIL OF

THE MONTH:

BELLINI

It’s a curious and little-known fact that

more than one-third of IBA-recognised

‘classic’ cocktail recipes were created in

establishments called ‘Harry’s Bar’. That may

or may not be true, but it feels plausible, and is

certainly the case with the Bellini. This simple,

fruity number was concocted sometime

around the second world war by Giuseppe

Cipriani, founder of Harry’s Bar in Venice, Italy

(the Harry’s Bar after which all other Harry’s

Bars are named, interestingly) who gave

the drink its name because its distinctive

hue reminded him of the toga of a saint

in a painting by Giovanni Bellini. Today,

we have the Pornstar Martini and the

Sex on My Face; so much for progress.

A true Bellini is made using pureed

white peaches (more fragrant than

the common yellow variety) topped up with

prosecco. Depending on your location and the

time of year, this can be a bit of a tall order,

so other fruit is sometimes used, including

mandarin (to make a Puccini), pomegranate (to

make a Tintoretto), or even a fruit liqueur.

Our version is probably not for the purists,

and comes out rather boozier than the cultured

Mr Cipriani would probably have wanted. It’s

tasty though, and our beer buyer Callum can

often be found knocking these back at our

Friday afternoon office drinks, while the rest of

us sip our real ale. We fortify our prosecco with

a measure of good quality gin – in this instance

the award-winning GinTing premium dry gin

– before further adulterating it with a slug of

peach liqueur. It’s then traditional to go and

have a bit of a lie down.

HOW TO MAKE A

BELLINI

RECIPE & METHOD:

• Take a chilled champagne flute

• Add 25ml GinTing premium dry gin

• Add 10ml peach liqueur

• Top up with chilled Prosecco

88 FERMENT MAGAZINE

FERMENT MAGAZINE 89


COOMBS ROAD

PEAKENDER

SITE MAP

MOTORHOMES

& CARAVANS

NO VEHICLE ACCESS TO PEAKENDER

AGRICULTURAL WAY

FAMILY

CAMPING

MONSAL

TRAIL

RIVER WYE

FESTIVAL

REGISTRATION

CAMPERS

ENTRANCE

VIP/

GLAMPING

MAIN TICKET

ENTRANCE

5

6

7

11

9

8

GENERAL

CAMPING

4

3B

3A

2

MOTORHOMES

CAMPERS

10

PARKING

1

plus many more...

BAKEWELL

HADDON ROAD A6

PEAKENDER

MAIN ENTRANCE

ACCESS TO

PEAKENDER ONLY

FROM THE A6

RIVER WYE

AGRICULTURAL WAY

MATLOCK

DAY VISITORS & CAMPERS

TICKET

CHECK

MOTORHOMES

KEY

1 MAIN BAR

2 BAR TWO

3A CASK ALE BAR

3B VELTINS BEER GARDEN

4 FAMILY AREA

5 KHS TALK TENT

6 YAKIMA CHIEF HOPS

TALK TENT

7 GLORY DAYS

INFORMATION POINT

8 EVENT CONTROL

9 TICKET DESK / INFO POINT

10 MUSIC STAGE

11 THORNBRIDGE FAST FLOW

BAR TENTS

FOOD CONCESSIONS

TOILETS

SHOWERS

90 FERMENT MAGAZINE

FERMENT MAGAZINE 91


TALKS & EVENTS

We have invited brilliant brewers from the participating breweries to share

their stories about their beers throughout the weekend.

FRIDAY

SATURDAY

SATURDAY

SUNDAY

Tent 1

5pm Thornbridge Meet the Brewer

6pm Beavertown Meet the Brewer

7pm Stone & Wood Meet the Brewer

8pm Comedy Club

Tent 2

6pm Locksley Gin Tasting

7pm Northern Monk Meet the Brewer

8pm Emma Inch Beer Talk

Tent 3

7pm Bedtime Stories

The perfect opportunity to let the little ones wind down after a

busy day exploring, join us for a bedtime story!

8pm Comedy Club

After a day of beer, head over to the comedy tent and have a

laugh or two. On the Friday, you can expect to see Karen Bailey,

Sean Percival, Tony Burgess and Duncan Oakley. Closing the

Comedy tent on the Saturday will be Joe Zalius, Lindsey Santoro,

Liam Pickford and Quincy.

Tent 1

12pm Fyne Ales Meet the Brewer

1pm Lost and Grounded Meet the Brewer

2pm Thornbridge Meet the Brewer

3pm Abbeydale Brewery Meet the Brewer

4pm Siren Meet the Brewer

5pm Fierce Beer Meet the Brewer

6pm Yeastie Boys Meet the Brewer

8pm–10pm Comedy Club

Tent 2

12pm Wander Beyond Meet the Brewer

1pm Firestone Walker

2pm Coeur de Xocolat Chocolate and Beer Pairing

3pm Locksley Gin Tasting

4pm Thornbridge Beer and Cheese Pairing

5pm Coeur de Xocolat Chocolate and Beer Pairing

8pm Emma Inch Beer Talk

Tent 3

10am-2pm My Arty Party drop in sessions

One for the kids! Let the little ones get crafty with My Arty

Party. They will leave with some unique creations including

headdresses and musical instruments to get them into the festival

mood.

9am Mikkeller Running Club

Post Friday night fragile head? We’ve got the perfect hangover

cure! Jules Grey of Sheffield bottle shop Hop Hideout hosts a

monthly chapter of the Mikkeller running club and will be leading

a 5km run starting and ending at The Bakewell showground.

10am Beer Yoga with Zoe

Beer Yoga is the unique fusion of yoga flow with that sweet golden

nectar we know and love, practised in a fun, unintimidating and

pretty chilled way. Beer yoga proved popular last year so we

decided to have a session on both mornings.

11am Beavertown Brunch

A beery brunch hosted by the team from Beavertown and Reds

True BBQ. Start the Saturday off right by joining for a 3 course

meal which will be paired with 3 of Beavertowns classics including

Neck Oil, Bloody Ell and Spresso.

Tent 1

12pm Tiny Rebel Meet the Brewer

1pm Roosters Meet the Brewer

2pm Magic Rock Meet the Brewer

3pm Overworks Meet the Brewer

Tent 2

12pm Hawkshead Meet the Brewer

1pm Locksley Gin Tasting

2pm North Brewing Meet the Brewer

10am Beer Yoga with Zoe

Beer Yoga is the unique fusion of yoga flow with that sweet golden

nectar we know and love, practised in a fun, unintimidating and

pretty chilled way. Beer yoga proved popular last year so we

decided to have a session on both mornings.

PHOTOS: Shane Harrison

7pm Bedtime Stories

The perfect opportunity to let the little ones wind down after a

busy day exploring, join us for a bedtime story!

8pm Comedy Club

After a day of beer, head over to the comedy tent and have a

laugh or two. On the Friday, you can expect to see Karen Bailey,

Sean Percival, Tony Burgess and Duncan Oakley. Closing the

Comedy tent on the Saturday will be Joe Zalius, Lindsey Santoro,

Liam Pickford and Quincy.

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THE FOOD & DRINK

We have some incredible street food & drink vendors to serve you a

delicious range of hot & foodie delights throughout the weekend...

PROOVE

Napoli style, wood fired pizzas, made using the freshest,

best quality ingredients.

RED'S TRUE BARBECUE

The best smoked meats and sides this side of the pond.

GET WURST

Bringing you the best of Berlin, bratwurst

and proper currywurst and fries.

WHIRLOW HALL FARM

Great local food doing real good.

Delicious breakfasts and hot roast pork.

MELTWORKS

Grilled cheese sourdough toasties with their delicious

home made fillings.

THE DILLA DELI

Devilishly tasty Quesadillas from around the world,

plus salads and nachos.

CARIBBEAN FUSION

Traditional Jamaican delights, seasoned to

make you taste flavours with a bit of a kick.

PIE EYED

Serving homemade Proper Pie & Mash from

a Horse Box.

JADE RABBIT

Artisan Dim Sum from recipes handed down

by a family in Hong Kong.

SERIOUS PIG

Posh Peperami made with top quality British

charcuterie.

SOUTH STREET FOOD

Fresh hand-cut fries with an exciting variety of toppings

plus burgers and hotdogs.

SUGAR SPUN SISTERS

Hot waffles, super fresh toppings, and a whole bunch

of sugary fun.

GREEDY GREEK DELI

Authentic, fresh, home made Greek food including

our famous Gyros Wraps.

DONER SUMMER

Vegan meats, fresh salads and pickles in a flatbread

or loaded onto hash brown hunks.

FREDERICKS ICE CREAM

Derbyshire artisan Ice Cream, made in England

since 1898.

ALL TERRAIN CAFFEINE

Bringing their love of coffee and Land Rovers to

Peakender! Serving all the usual coffee shop staples

using only the finest Rain Forest Alliance certified beans

roasted & blended at their Nottingham roast house.

HALLETS CIDER

Hallets Cider will be coming along in their defender

which is kitted out with all your favourite flavours.

GIN WAGON

Our friends at the Gin Wagon will be serving up the best

G&T’s in the area! You can expect a range of flavours

and mixers to jazz up the classic tipple.

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THE MUSIC

We have invited a brilliant selection of acts to keep you entertained

throughout the weekend.

FRIDAY 16 th August

SATURDAY 17 th August

SUNDANCE

16:00 – 16:30

Sundance is an indie rock quartet from Barnsley, South Yorkshire,

bringing influences from Oasis, The Beatles, Stone Roses, Bowie

and more. This talented group of young rock stars deliver anthems

and catchy songs that get any gig or festival started.

CASCAVEL

16:50 – 17:20

Epic desert blues rock from the steel city of Sheffield.

BLUEHEARTS & THE BROKEN SOULS

17:40 – 18:10

A concoction of classic and modern rock, blues and grunge. The

riffs are stomping, the solos are manic and the drive and power

behind the rhythm section provides a relentless sucker punch

right to the gut, while Clarke Vaughan’s on-stage swagger and

vocal prowess make him seem like the love child of James Dean

and Josh Homme.

LUNA KINGS

18:30 – 19:00

A new band to the music scene but with plenty of pedigree from

time spent in previous bands. Indie pop at its finest with plenty of

personality on stage.

THE COVASETTES

19:20 – 19:50

The Covasettes are an Indie rock quartet formed in the heart

of Manchester’s student town Fallowfield. They instinctively

found their sound with the ‘Higher’ demo, which provides a

striking combination of immense riffs and immersive melodies.

Led by frontman Chris Buxton, who effortlessly produces heart

wrenching yet infectious lyrics which allows them to instantly

stand out from the crowd. This combined with the input of

lead guitarist Matt Hewlett’s world-ending riffs, make The

Covasettes a band you can count on to continuously deliver

floor filling anthems. With prowess both on and off stage this is a

band you don’t want to take your eyes off.

CLEAR VINYL

20:10 – 20:40

A relatively new band who made their debut at Sheffield’s

Tramlines Festival last year and who have immediately found

an audience. One of the youngest bands to play this years

Peakender. Expect to hear influences from bands like Catfish

and the Bottlemen, The Amazons and Coldplay.

OCTOBER DRIFT

21:00 – 21:30

Headlining the Friday night, October Drift have toured Europe

with bands like Editors, and played Glastonbury Festival John

Peel Stage. They bring energetic post punk rock and are an

absolute must see band this weekend.

TYNI

16:20 – 16:50

TYNI is the girl who, despite the name, is destined for big

things. An exciting up and coming pop artist from Sheffield –

she recorded her debut EP between London and Los Angeles.

The title track “Fighter” has attracted attention from Radio 1

XTRA and BBC Introducing. As well as appearing at this year's

Peakender, TYNI has also performed at Glastonbury Festival.

BAD LUV

17:10 – 17:40

One of the newest bands on the scene, and already picking up

a loyal fanbase, BAD LUV are a hard-hitting quartet hailing

from the Barnsley end of South Yorkshire. Anthemic sounds

paralleled by energetic live performances.

HENDERSON

18:00 – 18:30

Four piece pop/indie band Henderson are a crowd favourite who

know how to get a crowd going! Get your dancing shoes ready as

Henderson bring songs with rhythm. Henderson have recently

toured Scotland to great success and are another of our must

see bands of Peakender 2019.

FRAZER

18:50 – 19:20

One of the must see bands this year, Frazer are a five piece pop rock

band from Sheffield with instantly addictive songs. Since forming in 2011,

the boys have gained a reputation as one to watch, with many industry

professionals giving buzzing reviews about their electric performance.

Ashley Clarke on vocals creates such a raw and atmospheric sound both

live and recorded, and accompanied by Harvey Fletcher who’s on stage

presence while playing lead guitar is mesmerising.

THE HOT SOLES

19:40 – 20:10

A two piece band from Sheffield, playing aggressive soul,

absorbing life and singing about it. Hot Soles are a breathtaking

duo who’s every live performance is a dynamic show-stopper.

Since October 2010, the Yorkshire band have been wowing

audiences from all walks of life with their rip roaring, raucous

soul vibe. Influences include The Rolling Stones, Aretha Franklin,

David Bowie, James Brown and the Kinks to name just a few.

PAPA SOUL

20:30 – 21:30

Sheffield’s very own funk/soul sisters and brothers are the

ultimate crowd pleasers, with their unique take on classic songs

from timeless labels such as Stax, Chess, Motown & Atlantic.

Throw in some reconstructed contemporary funk and disco

grooves..plus the raw talent and energy that this nine piece band

has in abundance and you have yourself one hell of a party!

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SUNDAY 18 th August

Unlimited

Exclusive Offer for

FLOODHOUNDS

14:00 – 14:30

A thunderous, delightfully messy mix of indie, garage-rock,

and blues - Floodhounds are a three piece band with songs that

hook you in as well as sounds that make you want to dance!

This three-piece from England is tighter than tupperware with

catchy hooks, guitar mastery and an absolute machine gun of

a drummer, ripping snare bullets at anyone in her way. It's rare

that vocals are not the centrepiece of a gig. This band’s energy

comes from the frontman’s orbit around the drummer, with a

red hot bassist to mop it all up.

JEKYLL

16:40 – 17:10

Influenced by Radiohead, Editors, Muse, Nirvana, Maximo Park,

Smashing Pumpkins, Depeche Mode and others, Jekyll travel to

Peakender from Blackpool to show why they’re highly regarded

on the live music scene, bringing big Muse style rock anthems

and subtle vocals.

Free Beer

Members

SCARLET

14:50 – 15:20

Liverpool band Scarlet are a powerhouse of pop, and have

supported Bob Geldof and the Boomtown Rats, Neon Waltz,

Pulled Apart By Horses, Swervedriver, Black Honey, Wolf Alice,

Coquin Migale, Kagoule, The Struts, secured slots playing DIY’s

‘breaking out’ night at Liverpool music week festival, and played

the huge festivals, Secret Garden Party, Tramlines, Sound

City, Hop Farm Festival, ‘We Luv Festival’ (Aintree racecourse

alongside acts such as UB40, Scouting For Girls, Example and

many more) amongst many others, and have been featured

in magazines such as Q magazine, Alternative Press and The

Skinny. Scarlet recently also played to 20,000 people at Tbisili

Open Air festival (Georgia).

SABELLA

19:30 – 20:00

SABELLA are a four piece alternative, rock, somewhat britrock

infusion of slick, tightly executed guitar parts entwined with

upbeat instrumental backbones; creating perfectly chilled rock

anthems. Expect familiar sounds, anthemic songs and a high

energy performance.

THE DUNWELLS

15:40 – 16:20

The Dunwells are an English pop/rock band, formed in Leeds in

2009. The group consists of brothers Joseph Dunwell (vocals)

and David Dunwell (guitar, vocals), along with friends Adam

Taylor (drums, vocals) and Rob Clayton (bass, vocals). Their

music is the result of fusing acoustic instrumentation and

electronics with down to earth songwriting and big choruses.

Invite your friends to join

Beer52 and get a Free

Case for every friend that

signs up*. PLUS they get

their first box Half Price.

To invite your friends, login at

Beer52.com and click ‘invite now’.

Drinking is always more fun when

you invite your friends along.

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*Receive your free box once they become a fully paid up member.

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