World Traveller August 2019

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INSPIRED BY

ISSUE 136 | AUGUST 2019 | COMPLIMENTARY COPY

Set sail on a family-friendly tour

of Greece’s Ionian islands

IBIZA

SWEDEN

READER OFFERS

STAYCATIONS

Produced in Dubai Production City

Our pick of...

Palm Jumeirah


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Welcome note

Summer’s in full swing and whether you’re leaving on a jet

plane, packing your overnight bag for a staycation (or three)

or already eyeing your next trip, we’ve got a whole load of

inspiration inside this issue.

Managing Director

Victoria Thatcher

Editorial Director

John Thatcher

General Manager

David Wade

Managing Editor

Faye Bartle

faye@hotmedia.me

If it’s always been a dream to holiday on a

luxury yacht, turn to page 50 to read Jeremy

Lazell’s story of sailing Greece’s Ionian islands with

his family in tow. It’s a trip he decided to make

following a ‘life’s too short’ revelation. If you’re

in the mood to throw caution to the wind, then

perhaps it’s time you sampled the charms of Ibiza

(it’s family friendly now, p38). Or maybe you can

plump for a total change of scenery in Sweden

(p40), where Scandi cities and rugged countryside

compete for attention.

You don’t need to venture far to have an

excellent time, however. We shine a light on

Dubai’s very own Palm Jumeirah (p20) and all

the wonderful things to see and do there. From

spreading out in a plush suite, to cooling off in

sparkling swimming pools and ticking the very

best experiences off your list – this man-made

island never fails to impress.

FIVE THINGS

WE LEARNED

THIS ISSUE:

1

Jaipur is nicknamed

The Pink City due to

its uniform terracotta

colour pallete that was

established during the

19 th century, p8

2

No longer just a go to

party hot-spot, Ibiza

serves up a veritable

family-affair, p34

3

In Sweden, the concept

of fika means it's

customary to share a

cup of coffee and a cake

with friends every day,

p40

Content Writers

Habiba Azab

Sophia Dyer

Art Director

Kerri Bennett

Senior Designer

Hiral Kapadia

Happy travels,

Faye Bartle

Win!

A two night stay at

Anantara The Palm

Dubai Resort in

Duabi, p75

Senior Advertising Manager

Mia Cachero

mia@hotmedia.me

Production Manager

Muthu Kumar

INSPIRED BY

Photography credits:

Getty Images and Phocal Media

Reproduction in whole or in

part without written permission

from HOT Media Publishing is

strictly prohibited. HOT Media

Publishing does not accept

liability for omissions or errors in

World Traveller.

Tel: 00971 4 364 2876

Fax: 00971 4 369 7494

COVER IMAGE

Getty Images

Find us at…

ONLINE worldtravellermagazine.com

FACEBOOK @WorldTravellerME

INSTAGRAM @worldtravellerme

TWITTER @WTravellerME

4

At Astir Beach in

Athens, the designated

archeological site of

Temple Apollo Zoste

sits just a stone's throw

from the beach, p54

5

Kingdom of Perfumes

in Bahrain is the place

to go for an bespoke

mix of your perfect

aroma, p56

worldtravellermagazine.com 3


Discover a Revolutionary Beauty Line!

Renew for the journey ahead.

We have something new and exciting for you.

Behold the mind-blowing, anti-aging and hydrating facial treatments by an innovative

Korean product line, which uses Diamonds. Yes, you read that right! Diamonds are

known for their ability to deliver ingredients to the deepest layers of your skin.

Want to know the best part? You get to go home with your own box of exquisite

products after each treatment.

For more information or to make a booking please call +971 4 414 6754.

JW Marriott Marquis Dubai | Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay, PO Box 121000, Dubai, UAE

mhrs.dxbjw.spa@marriott.com | jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com


Contents

August 2019

8TRENDING DESTINATIONS

regulars

8 13 17 74 76

TRENDING

DESTINATIONS

This month's go-to

places include lively

summer hot-spot

Seattle, and historical

pink city, Jaipur.

GLOBETROTTER

Test the waters of

these new luxury

hotels, or embark on a

culinary journey. Plus,

we shine a light on

family-friendly breaks.

THE KNOWLEDGE

Make sure you leave

a positive mark on

the places you visit

by swotting up on

the principles of

responsible tourism.

DIGITAL DOWNLOAD

Head online for

exclusive content and,

better still, the chance

to win a two-night stay

at Anantara The Palm

Dubai Resort.

SUITE DREAMS

Check into The

Kimpton Fitzroy

London Hotel's Corner

Suite for oodles of

19 th century drama

and class.

worldtravellermagazine.com 5


CONTENTS

features

20 34

PICK OF THE PALM BABY BLUES

Get the skinny on the Amanda Hyde revisits

best suites, restaurants, her 90s party haunt,

pools, spas and

Ibiza, for a family affair

experiences on this manmade

island of wonder. in

with husband and kids

tow.

40

SCANDI CRUSH

Liz Edwards gets to

know both sides of

Sweden in just one trip,

from the chic city to the

rugged countryside.

46

THE LONG YACHT

SUMMER

Jeremy Lazell whisks

his family away on a

glamorous cruise around

Greece's Ionian islands.

weekends

54 56

CULTURE TRIP A LONG WEEKEND

Head to Athens for IN BAHRAIN

a steady line-up of Peel back the layers of

historical feats and this fascinating Pearl

cultural hot-spots. of the Gulf.

62

STAYCATIONS

Feel in need of a break?

We have a few more

reasons to book a

weekend escape.

34

IBIZA

70

TRAVEL OFFERS

It's time we sent you

packing. Choose your

next adventure from

our exclusive offers.

6 worldtravellermagazine.com


DISCOVER FAMILY

FUN HOLIDAYS

Thailand has always been a fantastic place for all sorts of holidays - it offers affordable

luxury, warm hospitality and a variety of attractions and activities for everyone to see

and do.

Centara Hotels & Resorts offers great value family-friendly accommodation in gorgeous,

tropical Thailand including Bangkok, Pattaya, Hua Hin, Phuket, Samui and Krabi.

Relax in the comfort of our top-quality rooms, suites and pool villas, with glorious

beaches, exhilarating water activities, relaxed beachfront dining, local culture and

endless entertainment just moments away. Meanwhile, kids can go wild at our

sensational waterparks and at our fully-supervised, multi-age Kids’ Club.

FREE HALF BOARD

Your Breakfast & Dinner are on us!

From only AU$ 54 per night

View offers: centarahotelsresorts.com/world-traveller

Plus, 2 kids

stay and

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BOOK DIRECT FOR OUR BEST PRICE PROMISE centarahotelsresorts.com reservations@chr.co.th

MEMBERS GET MORE

CentaraThe1 members

receive 10% off any online rate,

plus many more privileges.


TRENDING DESTINATIONS

Emily Williams, dnata Travel’s resident globetrotter,

reveals the best places to hop on a plane to this month

Seattle

It's an excellent time to visit Seattle, with its sunny weather and variety of outdoor events. In August alone, there's

Seattle Art Fair, Watershed (a country music festival) an air show, car show, film festival, and even a salmon festival.

Famous for its coffee culture – the world’s first Starbucks opened here at the popular Pike Place Market – this

Washington city is also a great spot for whale watching around the San Juan Islands.

Highlights 1 Uncover a host of oddities, including shrunken heads and washed-up mermaids, at the century-old Ye

Olde Curiosity Shop. 2 Take to the sky with a scenic seaplane tour and experience the Emerald City from above. 3 Go north

and pay a visit to the 18-foot-tall stone troll that lives under Aurora Avenue Bridge. With any luck, he shall let you pass.

8 worldtravellermagazine.com


TRENDING DESTINATIONS

Tunis

Where else can you visit the Sahara Desert, the beach and some of the world’s most impressive Roman ruins

all in one day? Tunisia is expecting a record number of tourists this year. Its capital, Tunis, is located on the

Mediterranean coast and is home to some of North Africa’s most beautiful beaches. Here, you can discover a land

brimming with atmospheric souks, aromatic spices and incredible local cuisine.

Highlights 1 Tuck into a traditional lamb with apricots dish at the popular homegrown restaurant El Ali on

Rue Jamaa Ez Zitouna. 2 Pay a trip to Zitouna Mosque. Built in 732 CE, its prayer hall is a dazzling sight. 3 The largest

Roman amphitheatre in Africa, El Jem (a UNESCO World Heritage Site), is about a two-hour drive away.

worldtravellermagazine.com 9


Jaipur

Live like a Maharaja in the majestic city of Jaipur. The capital of India’s Rajasthan state, the Pink City (a moniker

inspired by the trademark colour of its buildings) evokes a regal ambience – it was founded and ruled by the royal

family until 1971. Visit the opulent City Palace complex and explore its courtyards, gardens and museums, or

venture into the surrounding former palaces, some of which are now converted to five-star hotels.

Highlights 1 Drink a traditional masala chai at Sahu Tea Shop – one of the most famous places for a brew in the city. 2 Head to Hanuman Ji

Temple to soak up the peaceful ambience and to see the mischievous monkeys that call the place home. 3 Before your time in the city is up,

visit Jantar Mantar, the world’s largest sundial – it's one of five such observatories in West-Central India built by Jai Singh.

10 worldtravellermagazine.com


TRENDING DESTINATIONS

Larnaca

It’s peak summertime on the Mediterranean island of Cyprus. Just a four-hour flight from Dubai, it is an enduringly

popular place to escape the desert heat. Fly into Larnaca, a beautiful town on the coast with long stretches of golden

sand. Next, head further inland to explore the modern downtown district, historic Old Town and atmospheric

Turkish Quarter for the perfect blend of relaxation and activity.

Highlights 1 Take a trip to Larnaca Salt Lake and see its dry shores strewn with pink flamingos. 2 Seasoned scuba divers can venture

below the surface to see the Zenobia Shipwreck, a ferry that sank in 1980 – you'll find it just off the fishing harbour. 3 Got kids in tow?

Hire a car and make the one-hour drive to Nicosia's Fairytale Museum, which brings the magical world of fairy tales to life.

worldtravellermagazine.com 11


AUGUST

Globetrotter

XXXXXXXXXXXXX

Be informed, be inspired, be there

Photo: InterContinental Hayman Island Resort

WE ARE FAMILY

Jetting off for some quality time

together? The newly-opened

InterContinental Hayman Island Resort

beckons with its mix of luxury and fun.

Tucked away in The Whitsunday Islands,

at the heart of the Great Barrier Reef,

this idyllic resort offers a host of family

adventures, from swimming with turtles

to group meditation classes. For large

broods, the Three Bedroom Hayman

Beach House delivers the ultimate

private island holiday experience.

worldtravellermagazine.com 13


Anantara Villa Padierna Palace Benahavis Marbella Taj Rishikesh Resort

Resort & Spa, India

FAM TRIPS

One of the busiest

months of the year for

family travel, we've

rounded up three options

for last-minute breaks...

1

FOR MUSICAL FANS

Hotel Grand Elysée,

Hamburg: Opt for the

musical package here,

and you'll receive tickets

to Disney's The Lion King

show at the nearby theatre.

NEW HOTELS

Fresh places to stay

Race you to these newly-opened hotels and resorts

DREAM

LOCATION

KEMPINSKI HOTEL

HANGZHOU

China's southeast

coast has natural

beauty aplenty –

the Grand Canal

stretching from

Beijing to Hangzhou is

a feat to behold.

ANANTARA VILLA

PADIERNA PALACE

Amid rolling hills

overlooking the

Med, Anantara Villa

Padierna Palace

Benahavis Marbella

Resort shines on

Spain’s southern coast.

WALDORF ASTORIA

MALDIVES ITHAAFUSHI

Accessible only by

yacht, you can expect

classic Maldivian

magic: white sand

beaches, crystal clear

waters and breathtaking

vistas.

2

FOR PAMPERING

JA Manafaru, Maldives:

Check into The Royal

Residence and dial down

the pace together with the

Mum & Me and Father &

Son spa treatments.

OUR PICK OF THE

ROOMS

WHY WE

LOVE IT

The Grand Canal View

Room has serene

views and a lush

rainforest shower,

while the Executive

Room includes access

to the lounge.

For equal amounts of

modern luxury and

historic significance

on your doorstep. Plus

authentic Hangzhou

cuisine at Zi Chen

Chinese Restaurant.

The Presidential Villa

sleeps two adults and

one child, and has

a private swimming

pool, rooftop terrace,

and butler service

during the day.

Home to 1,200 original

artworks, this gallery

hotel has a private

beach club, spa, and

three golf courses, with

Spanish cuisine on tap.

The ultra-exclusive

Ithaafushi Private Island

has five bedrooms, two

villas, five pools, and an

entertainment centre –

a private sandy island

paradise.

Foodies are spoilt for

choice with 11 dining

concepts to discover.

We rate Terra where

you can dine amid

the treetops in one of

seven bamboo nests.

3

FOR CITY TOTS

Mandarin Oriental,

New York: Offering

bespoke tours of the Big

Apple, and an awesome

new line-up of interactive

books before bedtime.

14 worldtravellermagazine.com


GLOBETROTTER

CULINARY JOURNEYS

Got a taste for adventure? Set off in pursuit of these

culinary happenings on our radar this month

CHEF COLIN CLAGUE

AT AQUA, COCO BODO

HITHI, MALDIVES Rüya

Dubai's award-winning

executive chef is bringing

his signature Turkish cuisine

to Maldivian shores. His

six-course tasting menu will

showcase Anatolian flavours

with a local twist, served at

overwater restaurant Aqua

on 11 and 15 August, with a

special masterclass on 14

August. cococollection.com

NETSU, MANDARIN

ORIENTAL JUMEIRA,

DUBAI Let the hotel's new

restaurant Netsu introduce

you to the traditional

Japanese cooking technique

of Warayak. Originating

from the Kochi Prefecture in

Shikoku, the chefs grill food

using dry straw instead of

charcoal for a unique flavour

and taste, with soaring

flames bringing the drama.

mandarinoriental.com

CLONAKILLA TRUFFLE

DINNER, EMIRATES

ONE&ONLY, WOLGAN

VALLEY This scenic resort

in Oz has a mouthwatering

line-up of foodie events

taking place during its winter

period, including a truffleinspired

degustation dinner

prepared by executive

chef Nancy Kinchela on

the 16 and 17 August.

oneandonlyresorts.com

A dish by chef Colin Clague at

AQUA, Coco Bodo Hithi, Maldives

worldtravellermagazine.com 15


GLOBETROTTER

INTERVIEW WITH...

Pie Aerts

The Dutch photographer who has

travelled far and wide, capturing

shots of local people in the name of

art, tells us how he does it

Be prepared. When I travel to a new destination I

do my research by looking up work that has been

shot by other photographers. It helps me figure

out which parts of a city or country can offer an

authentic experience.

As soon as I arrive I start exploring with my

camera inside my bag. I search for street markets

or places where local people hang out. Not a

single guide book in the world will beat the tips of

local people.

The most magical moments happen when you go

with the flow. That is what travel is all about for me.

A destination that has changed me is India. It’s a

place that puts things in perspective; going there

has altered my outlook on life.

Shoot as much as you can. Always carry a camera,

as practise makes perfect. But

remember that photography

requires patience and persistence,

so enjoy the ride.

Tales from the Roads Less

Traveled by Pie Aerts, published

by teNeues and MENDO. Avaliable

at teneues.com and mendo.nl

Photo credit: Brief encounter with a shepherds' daughter in the outskirts of Pushkar,

India, Rajasthan - Pushkar, Photo © 2019 Pie Aerts. All rights reserved.

ON OUR RADAR

Keeping Omani culture

alive, author Azhaar

Ahmed has written the

perfect bedtime story for

kids visiting Jabal Akhdar.

Tales from Jabal Akhdar:

The Mountain That Touches

The Stars is available to all

those bedding down at

Alila Jabal Akhdar Oman.

alilahotels.com

Ever wondered what a

holiday in 2119 would look

like? Hilton's Future-Gazing

report give us an idea. From

under-the-skin microchips

modifying how the hotel

looks to you, to holographic

personal trainers and

3D-printed dinners, the

future looks bright.

Like father, like son. How

cute are these matching

swim shorts? Emirates

airline has teamed up with

sustainable fashion brand

Joseph & Alexander to

create The Emirates

Landing Collection. The

eco-friendly garments are

avaliable to buy at emirates.

store.com

Luxury leather brand MCM

has released its neon

Summer Travel Capsule

collection just in time

for your next trip. And

the bright colours are a

surefire way to keep the

holiday spirit alive long

after you've returned

home. mcmworldwide.com

16 worldtravellermagazine.com


KNOW-HOW

The Knowledge

HOW TO...

Have a holiday that gives back

Make sure you leave a positive mark on the places you visit by swotting up on the

principles of responsible tourism. Here’s what you need to know…

Not to be confused with sustainable

travel, the responsible tourism

movement is all about empowering

travellers to make a positive

contribution to destinations

around the world. “It aims to help

create better places for people

to live in and better places for

people to visit,” says responsible

tourism expert Dr Harold Goodwin

(haroldgoodwin.info). “This means

taking action to help make tourism

more sustainable by maximising

the positive economic, social and

environmental impact of your trips.”

Here's how...

CHECK IT BEFORE YOU

WRECK IT

“Before setting off, the most

important thing to do is to learn about

the local issues, whether it’s a lack

of employment or water shortages…

get informed,” says Harold. Once you

have the scoop on the hot topics of

the area you can tweak your plans,

if needed. For instance, you could

spend some of your holiday time

volunteering for a worthy cause.

At Anantara Dhigu Resort in the

Maldives, you can join the Coral

Adoption Programme and help care

for coral in the resort’s reef while

at Atholl Palace in Perthshire in the

UK, you can plant your very own tree

on the grounds. Being responsible,

however, can even be as simple as

making sure you’re up to date on all

your vaccinations and have a good

travel health insurance policy in place.

By taking control of your health, you’ll

be less likely to need to draw upon the

local health services.

MEET THE LOCALS

While travelling, make an effort to

broaden your cultural understanding

of the traditions and values of the

native people. “Tourism is positive

when it increases the understanding

between cultures and people,”

says Harold. During your trip, get

stuck into meeting the residents

by visiting local haunts. “By using

a tour guide who is from that

region, you’ll get to understand and

share some of the real atmosphere of

the place,” says Harold. Find a local

guide who can curate your perfect

tour by thinking outside the box –

enjoying a home cooked meal at

your host's house may well rival your

typical fine dining expeirence.

GO FOR HOMEGROWN

Quite often, countries and local

families are reliant on the income

brought in by tourism so you can pay

it forward by carefully selecting where

you spend your money. If you’re in the

market for some unique keepsakes,

use the knowledge of your tour guide

to hunt down the boutiques of local

artisans where you’ll find a range of

handmade items that not only look

good but do good supporting local

trade. Choose to stop for coffee in an

independent café rather than a global

chain and your money will go straight

into the hands of a local entrepreneur.

BRUSH UP ON ETIQUETTE

As in our home towns, each place

you visit has a set of social norms

that you will do well to adhere to. In

Japan, it’s considered rude to tip the

waiter and while you may be used

to jumping in the back of a taxi, it’s

a social faux pas to not ride shotgun

with the driver in Australia. It’s easy

to research and, just like making the

effort to learn some language basics,

it’ll help put a smile of the face of all

those you meet.

To learn more, check out Harold’s

book Responsible Tourism: Using

Tourism for Sustainable Development,

available at amazon.com

worldtravellermagazine.com 17


Straight to the point

Journey to the peak of luxury at Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar Resort

18 worldtravellermagazine.com


WORLD TRAVELLER X ANANTARA AL JABAL AL AKHDAR RESORT

Unwind in a Garden Pool Villa

Delightful Omani details

Soak in stunning canyon vistas

from your villa's infinity pool

In 1986, a helicopter delivered a

British royal couple to the untouched

wilderness of Jebel Akhdar in Oman.

For hours, Prince Charles painted the

canyon’s rugged beauty while Princess

Diana read a book. Fast forward to

today and, thanks to scenic winding

roads that climb up to that very same

spot on the Saiq Plateau, you can soak

up the stunning view over drinks and

nibbles, rise with the sun for a yoga

session, or indulge in a romantic feast

of local delicacies with your loved one

from Diana’s Point at Anantara Al Jabal

Al Akhdar Resort.

A two-hour drive from Muscat

International Airport, this ancient-fortlike

resort is uniquely situated 2,000

metres above sea level, deeming it the

highest five-star resort in the Middle

East. You can choose to stay secluded

amid lush green foliage, or with direct

views of the captivating canyon. Either

way, all 115 rooms pay homage to Omani

heritage, with design details that

encapsulate the barren yet strikingly

beautiful landscape that surrounds

you. For ultimate privacy, we rate the

Cliff Pool Villas, which each feature an

infinity pool spilling out towards the

mountains as far as the eye can see.

It won’t be long before the striking

scenery beckons you to venture

outdoors to explore Oman’s natural

wonders. Take to the hills either

trekking or on a mountain bike and

admire the breathtaking beauty of the

western Hajar Mountains or enjoy a

culture-packed visit to the historic city

of Nizwa, renowned for centuries as

the ‘Pearl of Islam’. Back to the resort,

retreat to Anantara Spa and indulge

in a hammam ritual that draws on

the healing power of rose water and

pomegranate for a glowing complexion.

With six dining venues to pick from,

foodies will be spoilt for choice here.

Feel the Italian vibes at Bella Vista,

where home-style regional classics

are served with contemporary flair. Al

Qalaa takes you on a savoury journey

steeped in the region’s culinary

roots while Al Baha serves a range of

speciality teas around the courtyard’s

open fireplace – a setting that’s best

enjoyed under a starry night’s sky.

Epicureans can grab an apron and delve

into the secrets of Thai and Omani

cuisine with the step-by-step Spice

Spoons cooking class so, by the end of

your trip, you’ll have the all the knowhow

you need to recreate your favourite

dishes back home.

To find out more, call +968 25 218000

or visit anantara.com

worldtravellermagazine.com 19


Pick of thePALM

Dubai's Palm Jumeirah is one of the largest man-made islands on the planet,

from its two-kilometre-long trunk to the tips of its 17 fronds and the surrounding

crescent. Launched in 2001, this awe-inspiring isle reclaimed from the sea has

developed into a glamorous mixture of luxury hotels, high-end restaurants,

thrilling attractions and more that combine to make one of the emirate's most

magnetic tourist spots. Discover the very best bits with our round-up of musthave

activities and experiences...

20 worldtravellermagazine.com


PALM JUMEIRAH

worldtravellermagazine.com 21


Pick of the SUITES

Stay at these plush suites where panoramic Palm Jumeirah views

meet private pools, direct beach access, round-the-clock butler

service – and even waking up to aquarium views

1Royal Suite, Waldorf Astoria

Dubai Palm Jumeirah

This coveted two-bedroom suite

occupies the entire top floor of the

hotel, taking the crown as the largest

suite in the emirate (1,567sqm).

Opulent woods and Italian marble

set the tone for a VIP stay, with large

living and dining areas, as well as a vast

terrace from which to admire those

panoramic Palm views. Your entourage

is sure to be impressed by the

20-guest majlis and kitchen with butler

service, and there's two additional

bedrooms for your assistants.

2Luxe Two Bedroom Suite With

Private Pool, FIVE Palm Jumeirah

This plush 175sqm suite is great for

groups, comfortably sleeping up to

five adults. There’s a separate kitchen

area and living room to hang out in, as

well as a social dining room set-up for

meals shared around the table. You’ll

soon be inspired to take the party

outdoors, however, as the large terrace

beckons with its private pool directly

facing the Arabian Gulf. It’s the ideal

way to chill while watching the sunset

against a Dubai Marina backdrop.

Grand King Suite, Rixos

3 The Palm

Step into the private elevator and

journey straight to this vast (580sqm)

penthouse suite that'll wow you with

its floor-to-ceiling windows, sparkling

views and awesome outdoor space.

Bagsie the master bedroom for its

king size bed, spacious walk-in closet,

and en-suite bathroom complete with

whirlpool bathtub and standalone

rainfall shower.

Underwater Suite, Atlantis

4 The Palm, Dubai

Dive deep into relaxation as you

unwind to majestic views of the

Ambassador Lagoon (boasting

65,000 marine inhabitants) through

floor-to-ceiling windows in your

bedroom and en-suite – simply watch

on in wonder as the fishes swim past.

This impressive three-storey suite, of

which there are just two (Neptune

and Poseidon), sets out to impress

with interconnecting bedrooms, a

grand living room and chic amenities

including 24-karat gold smellies.

5

Palm Beach Executive Suite With

Pool, One&Only The Palm

This sophisticated, one-bedroom

130sqm suite comes complete with

a private pool and is just steps away

from the beach. There are just two of

these suite types available, offering

round-the-clock service by a team

of dedicated hosts. Unwind on your

22 worldtravellermagazine.com


PALM JUMEIRAH

BRITISH

CHARM

Experience the best of British

hospitality against a stunning

backdrop of sun, sea and sand at

Dukes The Palm, a Royal Hideaway

Hotel. Take your pick of the

luxurious rooms and suites,

with the option to stay allinclusive

allowing you to

fully unwind.

Opening pages: Atlantis The Palm, Dubai Opposite page, top to bottom: Palm Beach Executive Suite with

Pool, One&Only The Palm; Royal Suite, Waldorf Astoria Dubai Palm Jumeirah This page, clockwise from top

left: Anantara Two Bedroom Beach Pool Villa, Anantara The Palm Dubai Resort; a suite at Dukes The Palm, a

Royal Hideaway Hotel; Underwater Suite, Atlantis The Palm, Dubai

private beachfront patio or take a

dunk in the sumptuous oversized

freestanding marble tub. Distinctive

Moorish and Andalusian architecture

enhances the holiday vibe.

6Superior 3 Bedroom Penthouse,

Kempinski Hotel & Residences

Palm Jumeirah

If you’re travelling with the

whole family in tow, this 440sqm

penthouse’s three bedrooms

(sleeping up to 6 adults and 2

children) is just the ticket. With a

separate kitchen and living room with

terraces overlooking the lagoon and

the sea, there’s plenty of room to

socialise. Luxury décor with hues of

gold create an air of opulence.

7Anantara Two Bedroom Beach

Pool Villa, Anantara The Palm

Dubai Resort

The resort’s popular overwater villas

are unique to Dubai but the beach

pool villa option transports you from

the shores of the Arabian Gulf to

exotic Asian lands with barefoot luxury

in spades. Bi-fold patio doors open up

onto a private terrace and infinity pool

with its own chic dining sala, bordered

by a lush green lawn and the beach

mere steps beyond.

8The Palm Suite, Sofitel the Palm

Dubai Resort & Spa

Designed especially for large

entourages or extended families

travelling together, this four-bedroom

(450sqm) penthouse suite occupies

the entire top floor of the resort’s

central building. Retreat to the master

suite with its king-size bed, en-suite

bathroom, separate dressing room

and private gym. Beyond the French

doors are two expansive terraces,

both with magnificent views.

9Grand Imperial Suite, Jumeirah

Zabeel Saray

Follow in the footsteps of royalty

and A-listers who have stayed in this

grand 310sqm suite, which is tucked

away at the highest point of the

resort. Breathtaking sea views, richly

appointed interiors, a personal spa

and private butler service delivers the

VIP treatment.

Presidential Suite, Fairmont

10 The Palm

With its mix of Arabic-influenced

décor and contemporary interior

design, this 390sqm suite marries

style and comfort. It's all about the

view, however, with its expansive

terrace offering 180-degree vistas of

the Dubai Marina skyline.

worldtravellermagazine.com 23


Pick of the RESTAURANTS

Get set for a meal to remember at these top-notch

restaurants that will win you over with a compelling

combination of tantalising fare and a stunning setting

TORNO SUBITO, W DUBAI

- THE PALM

Despite being a shiny, smiley, seaside

affair, Torno Subito carries the

weighty expectation of Chef Massimo

Bottura on its shoulders, he of three

Michelin stars and 2018’s World’s

Best Restaurant (for Italy’s Osteria

Francescana) acclaim. It doesn’t

buckle. A playful gem topped by the

best gelato in town.

What to order: The mere but

magnificent margherita pizza takes

centre stage, edging the too-rich-forour-taste

chef’s favourite.

MEKONG, ANANTARA THE PALM

DUBAI RESORT

Pan-Asian restaurants usually suffer

by being, as the saying goes, a

jack of all trades but a master of

none. Not so Mekong, which has

proved itself skilled in Chinese and

Vietnamese and a master of Thai. Park

yourself in rickshaw-style seating for

complementing views across to the city.

What to order: The comes-with-a-kick

phad kaprow goong.

101 DINING LOUNGE AND

MARINA, ONE&ONLY THE PALM

Nowhere says you’re having dinner

on the Palm quite like this place, the

terrace of which bestows glorious

across-water views of the city’s spiked

skyline. With a new menu rubber

stamped by three-Michelin starred chef

Yannick Alléno, the food doesn’t suffer

by comparison.

What to order: Anything plucked from

the sea is good, but Alléno’s take on

bouillabaisse is best.

RUE ROYALE, THE POINTE

The pride of the Palm’s foodie hotspot

The Pointe, Rue Royale is the result

of chef Mathieu Viannay’s ambitious

quest to sprinkle his Michelin stardust

over an entirely Halal and alcohol-free

menu inspired by classic French fare.

TRUCK ON…

Swap fine dining for side-ofthe

road bites at the 11km-long

The Boardwalk, which is home to

several dozen food trucks serving

everything from fish and chips

to shawarma, which you can

tuck into while soaking up

the sea views.

Dishes are on the pricey side, but worth

it for the prized ingredients used.

What to order: The milk-fed lamb

shoulder from the rotisserie.

THE RIB ROOM, JUMEIRAH

ZABEEL SARAY

Its elder sibling in Jumeirah Emirates

Towers is a city stalwart, but this

outpost tops it. Here you can truly

24 worldtravellermagazine.com


PALM JUMEIRAH

These pages, clockwise from bottom left: 101 Dining

Lounge and Marina; Khyber; Rue Royale; Mekong

indulge in ingredients as opulent as

the resort itself: beluga caviar, purebreed

master kobe wagyu beef, foie

gras, oysters, lobster… you get the

idea. Just be sure to save space for the

well selected cheeses.

What to order: That master kobe wagyu

is almost worthy of its price tag.

LITTLE MISS INDIA, FAIRMONT

THE PALM

A vibrantly decorated and playful

restaurant that excels in house-made

spice mixtures and marinades, used

to brilliant effect in both the food and

inspired drinks that put an Indian spin

on classic recipes. Dishes are served

for sharing – make sure you’re first

to the spoon.

What to order: The soft-as-a-pillow

murgh malai kebab, fresh from

the tandoor.

AKIRA BACK, W DUBAI

- THE PALM

Akira Back is the headline act, but

his Chef de Cuisine Giovanni Ledon

is the star of this particular show. To

go alongside Japanese hot and cold

plates – including what’s arguably

the best sushi in the city – Ledon has

created a full vegan menu that packs in

incredible flavour.

What to order: The sushi is a must, but

ask Ledon for a sample plate of vegan

desserts. You’ll be wowed.

KHYBER, DUKES THE PALM,

A ROYAL HIDEAWAY HOTEL

Embark on a spice-laden journey

through northern India at this Mumbai

import, which serves up great views

across to Dubai Marina – though it’s

the dishes served that take our full

attention. Spiced to perfection, the

curries are faultless (the service not

far from it), and there’s a substantial

vegetarian offering.

What to order: Tiranga paneer tikka

– you’ll be ever so glad you’re on a

meat-free day.

worldtravellermagazine.com 25


PALM JUMEIRAH

Pick of the POOLS

If being surrounded by the sparkling sea isn't enough to satisfy your chill-o-meter, don't fret.

The island is spilling over with swimming pools to take a refreshing dip in, so go on, dive in!

1The infinity pool at Dukes The

Palm, A Royal Hideaway Resort

Kick back at this Insta-worthy infinity

pool and gaze at the turquoise waters

that appear to blend seamlessly into

the sky. This temperature-controlled

pool is the ideal spot at which to cool

down. Plus, it's just a hop, skip and a

jump away from the hotel's lazy river.

2Highlights pool bar at Rixos the

Palm Dubai Hotel & Suites

Perfect for an uninterrupted pool

day, this lush oasis is surrounded

by palm trees, with a swim-up bar

keeping you well-fed and watered.

You can dry off on one of the many

comfy sunloungers or exclusive beach

cabanas. The kids will enjoy splashing

around in the dedicated shallow pool.

Infinity pool at Anantara the

3 Palm Dubai Resort

If you're eager to get some lengths in,

you'll be in your element in this Thaiinspired

resort's 50-metre infinity

pool. Swim to your heart's content,

admiring the charming architecture

and shoreline views as you go. Don't

leave without taking a relaxing

dunk in the Jacuzzi overlooking the

Arabian Gulf.

The main pool, Sofitel Dubai

4 The Palm

With six outdoor pools to choose

from, you're spoilt for choice here.

The main pool faces the beach, with

its sun decks surrounded by palm

trees, vibrant bougainvillea and more

lush greenery. For a dash of fun, hunt

out the pools featuring slides and

waterfalls, as well as the splash area

just for kids.

Psst! You'll soon be able to take a dip

52-storeys high at the rooftop infinity

pool at The Palm Tower complex

that's set to open in 2020.

This page clockwise from top left: Infinity pool at Dukes The Palm, A Royal Hideaway Hotel; Highlights Pool Bar at Rixos The Palm Dubai

Hotel & Suites; Infinity Pool at Anantara The Palm Dubai Resort; The Main Pool at Sofitel Dubai The Palm

26 worldtravellermagazine.com


Whatever your vision of the perfect vacation – be it a fun family beach

holiday, honeymoon romance or just relaxing in beachfront exclusivity

– Anantara The Palm Dubai Resort offers a uniquely luxurious escape,

inspired by Thai exoticism and the heartbeat of Dubai.

Unwind in an enchanting Beach Pool Villa, with your very own private

infinity pool. Soak up tranquil Arabian Gulf views from your Over Water

Villa. Step straight from your room into the crystal clear waters of our

10,000 square metre lagoon pools. Culinary journeys excite with a

melange of mouthwatering flavours. The prestigious sanctuary of

Anantara Spa rejuvenates and renews, from a range of inspirational

treatments, to indulgent rituals in the Turkish Hammam.

LIFE IS A JOURNEY. Visit anantara.com

ANANTARA THE PALM DUBAI RESORT

P.O. BOX 71607, EAST CRESCENT, PALM JUMEIRAH, DUBAI, UNITED ARAB EMIRATES

T +971 4 567 8888 E resdubaipalm@anantara.com


PALM JUMEIRAH

AWAY Spa

Pick of the SPAS

Take a load off at these top

pampering havens that'll help

you wave goodbye to stress

If your MO is to unwind, you'll be

pleased to learn that the Palm's spa

game is strong. The Retreat Palm

Dubai MGallery by Sofitel is home

to the world’s first Rayya Wellness

Centre (+971 4 524 7777) offering

an impressive line-up of holistic,

tailor-made health and wellbeing

programmes. If you can't squeeze in a

package, plump for a treatment off the

à la carte menu – the laughter yoga

group class followed by an Emotional

Freedom Techniques coaching session

will have you feeling like a new person.

Treatments take place in the luxury

spa or on the beach.

Not your traditional zen spa, AWAY

Spa (+971 4 245 5533) at W Dubai -

The Palm will wow you with its striking

design that harks back to Dubai’s

pearl diving heyday. Make your way

past the shimmering entryway to

the Beauty Bar and join the city's

social set as they take their seats

for touch-ups such as party lashes,

quick polish changes, and nourishing

lip masks while sipping on drinks. If

you require more privacy, there are 11

treatment rooms, including a couples'

suite, although the outdoor cabana

treatments (from 15-60 minutes) are

perfect for teaming a soothing session

with serene sea views.

For one of the best hammam

experiences, head to Anantara Spa

(+971 4 567 8140) at Anantara The

Palm Dubai Resort. Available for

men, women and couples, let those

aches melt away in the traditional

Turkish hammam that will soak, steam,

scrub and massage you to gleaming

perfection so you emerge refreshed.

worldtravellermagazine.com 29


PALM JUMEIRAH

Pick of the EXPERIENCES

From jumping out of a plane to whizzing down a near-vertical

waterslide and living it up at the hippest beach clubs, the

fronded island brings the fun factor in spades

Take the leap of faith

It takes some nerve, but if you haven't

flung yourself down the near-vertical

Leap of Faith waterslide then you've

not had the full Atlantis Aquaventure

experience. It takes just one second

to ride this nine-storey-tall mega

slide before being whooshed through

a transparent tube surrounded by

sharks and cownose rays. It's the star

slide at this sprawling family-favourite

waterpark at Atlantis The Palm, Dubai.

Jump out of a plane

Time to tick skydiving off your bucket

list? You've come to the right place,

as Skydive Dubai (skydivedubai.ae)

invites you to leap out of an aeroplane,

tethered to a professional, for a

tandem jump experience over Palm

Jumeirah. It's the best (albeit most

extreme) way to see the island from

above – unless you've got your eyes

closed, of course.

Meet the dolphins

Deep water hugs, kisses and dancing

– the dolphins at Dolphin Bay at

Atlantis The Palm, Dubai are showered

with affection. We rate the Dolphin

Adventure experience (for confident

swimmers aged 8+), which includes a

thrilling belly ride from the centre of

the lagoon, among other activities.

Feel the need for speed

Make like James Bond on a thrilling

speedboat tour around the island.

Splash Tours (splashtours.ae) sets off

from Dubai Marina, before looping

around Palm Jumeirah, pausing at

Atlantis The Palm and Burj Al Arab for

photo opportunities. The 90-minute

sightseeing trip is a family-friendly

affair that's ideal for catching a

glimpse of all those famous landmarks

along the coast. Another great option

is The Yellow Boats (theyellowboats.

com), which runs a super cool

99-minute tour of Palm Jumeirah, Burj

Al Arab and Dubai Marina, with the

option to arrange a private charter.

Live it up at the beach clubs

Synonymous with Dubai’s party scene,

Palm Jumeirah plays host to a slew

of hip beach clubs. The boho themed

Playa Nomade (playanomade.com) at

Rixos The Palm Dubai, serves up laid-

30 worldtravellermagazine.com


PALM JUMEIRAH

back weekday vibes, with

lively brunches and house DJs

ramping up the pace at weekends.

Families should head to Riva (rivabeach.com)

at The Shoreline to

splash around in the sparkling pool

and unwind on the sand. Meanwhile,

Wet Deck (wetdeckdubai.com) at W

Dubai - The Palm attracts an energetic

crowd with its partially submerged

day beds, colourful inflatables, and

steady line-up of DJs and performers.

Ride the waves

Watersports company SeaYou

(seayou.ae), which operates from

Sofitel Dubai The Palm Resort & Spa,

offers all manner of activities in the

water, including dragonboating for

groups. There needs to be a minimum

of eight people to take part – simply

LET'S

DO BRUNCH…

Brunch in Dubai remains an

institution, with restaurants pulling

out all the stops to tempt your

tastebuds. That's no more apparent

than on the Palm, where for

families we rate the fun vibes

at West 14th, while foodies

will fall hard for Akira

Back.

Opposite: Skydive Dubai, photo © Skydive Dubai This page, clockwise from top left: The Penthouse Dubai; Wet

Deck; The Leap of Faith

row to the beat of the drum – but if

you can't make up the numbers don't

fret, as you can also take a guided

kayak tour around the island, or go

sailing, windsurfing, stand-up paddle

boarding and more.

Peace out under a full moon

Inhale and exhale beneath the light of

the full moon at Fairmont The Palm.

Taking place on the Saturday closest

to the full moon each month, seasoned

yogis and novices alike are invited to

practise their asanas while the resident

yoga teacher talks you through the

different postures. Each session ends

with a relaxing meditation.

Sip sundowners

With the Palm’s stunning vistas, it’s

little wonder there’s sundowner spots

aplenty here. Our favourite places for

watching the sun go down over with a

drink in hand include West 14th (soak

up the view from the terrace) and

Phantom House at The Pointe (offering

direct views of Atlantis The Palm).

Check out The View

Situated 240 metres high, The View at

The Palm is a public observation deck

offering stellar vistas. What’s more, this

new attraction, set to open in 2020,

shares the story behind the making

of the island through its interactive

museum and dedicated gallery.

Accessible via Nakheel Mall, you’ll

make the three-minute ascent in the

hi-tech elevator (it has a floor-to-ceiling

digital sea, sand and sky display) to

the observatory at the top of The Palm

Tower, where you can soak up those

360-degree views.

worldtravellermagazine.com 31


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34 worldtravellermagazine.com


IBIZA

These pages, from left:

A staired street in Ibiza town;

a bird's eye view of Ibiza and

Formentera islands

Baby

Blues

The Balearic isle of Ibiza was party central in the

’90s, when Amanda Hyde rocked up, young,

free and single. But can it still thrill now that she’s

grown up and married, with kids in tow?

worldtravellermagazine.com 35


he last time I went to

Ibiza, I checked into a

ridiculously expensive

villa, stayed out partying

for two days straight, and

made it to my beautiful,

boho-chic bedroom just as the flight

I’d booked home was taking off. My

weekend consisted of over-the-top

kaftans, overpriced rosé and overhyped

DJs, but I thought it was the best

holiday I’d ever had. A decade on, I was

ready for a rematch, but something had

changed. I’d grown up. This time, I’d be

going with my husband, Nat, and two

other travel companions — our kids,

Amelie (four) and Sonny (two).

As parents, we were slightly hesitant.

To us, Ibiza represented the thumping

belly of super-clubs, and erratic binges

on dodgy tapas. But we’d seen our most

sensible friends holiday on the island

with kids in tow, and read a string of

newspaper articles proclaiming that

Ibizan clubs were over, anyway (ruined

by a clientele who would rather take

selfies outside the gates than actually

hit the dance floor). With the loss of

the island’s hard-partying reputation,

family bookings are soaring — up 125%

from 2013. But could trading big-name

DJs for early-night PJs really make for

a fun holiday on this island? We were

about to find out.

We touched down early in the

morning, driving towards our hotel

through countryside ticker-taped with

sudden glimpses of neon-blue sea. As

we passed the kind of villas I’d rented

on my previous visit — rustic-luxe

restored farmhouses made for floating

on giant inflatable unicorns — I could

only wave them a forlorn farewell. This

year, we were making the ultimate

kid-friendly sacrifice: an all-inclusive

behemoth in the far west of the island.

The behemoth (also known as

Sensatori Resort) promised a kids’

club, kids’ pools — even a kids’ cabaret

after dinner. What it didn’t promise

was thrilling evenings for us, since we

were all sharing one room. Nat and I

assumed we’d spend each night sitting

silently in the dark until they started

snoring. Our reasons for choosing it

weren’t entirely altruistic, though.

Round-the-clock ice creams and free


AT DUSK WE

SWADDLED

OURSELVES

IN TOWELS

FOR AN IBIZAN

CLASSIC -

WATCHING A

FLAMING SUN

DRIP LIKE

SYRUP INTO THE

OPALESCENT

SEA


buckets and spades would buy us the

bargaining power needed for some

adult-friendly, nostalgia-stirring

excursions during the holiday.

It was a bonus to find that the hotel

was quite nice.

Built behind the craggy bay at Cala

Tarida (home to the best sunsets on

the island), it felt more like a quasi

boutique hotel. With 402 rooms, it

was undeniably humongous, but with

little touches such as a sunset bar and

posh spa to soften its edges. For some,

it is a kind of Hotel California: I met a

couple who hadn’t left it for their entire

fortnight, not even for the postcardworthy

beach just beyond its gates. But

I knew better. It takes 50 minutes max

to get anywhere on Ibiza and, kids or

no kids, I couldn't make my comeback

without returning to places I'd been

when I was too young to appreciate

them. First stop, IbizaTown.

After rotating our hire car into a

space the size of a saucer, the whole

family jumped out and made straight

for the cobbled, pastel-washed centre.

In my party days, it had felt like the

epitome of chic. We mooched past

touristy boutiques (some jewelled

skulls and embellished beach bags

catching Amelie’s eye) and searched out

bougainvillea-laced squares off narrowalley

mazes. But, after a quick lunch

of salads on a terrace on the cobbles,

Amelie had something to say. ‘Boring,

boring, boring,’ she muttered. Frankly,

she was right. Without my rosé-tinted

specs, the whole place seemed cynically

touristy. Luckily, the kids had an idea:

we should take a boat trip.

Many Ibiza visitors splurge on this

part of the holiday, spending hundreds

on private charters to the neighbouring

island of Formentera. We considered

this, but ruled it out on the grounds

that our two-year-old might launch

himself off the side if it went on too

long, rendering it poor value. Instead,

we opted for the shortest boat trip

available — the $5 return from Ibiza

Town's Dalt Vila area to the glitzy

marina next door.

It might not have been my personal

dream boat, but the rusty old ferry

that ploughs this route was manned

by a proper old sea dog in a captain’s

hat (much to the kids’ delight). And

it was worth it to see Sonny’s face as

he pointed out passing mega-yachts

and seagulls, while Amelie gleefully

scanned the water ‘for sharks’. From

across the bay, I photographed

Ibiza Town rising from the sea in a

whitewashed haze. It looked as it must

have before the souvenir shops arrived:

houses wrapped like icing tiers around

a fortress topping. The magical setting

and infant enthusiasm combined in

one of those annoying smug-parent

moments. Sadly, it lasted exactly three

minutes — until we got off at the

wrong stop.

There are two, it turns out: first,

industrial wasteland; second, glitzy

marina. Ashen-faced, we realised we’d

have to wait for the ferry to do another

one of its circuitous routes before it

could pick us up. Still, every cloud -

‘Playground!’ shouted Amelie.

Sure enough, there among the

tumbleweed was a playground

seemingly unvisited since 1986. We

had no choice but to kill an hour

there — the kids making the most of

empty swings, my husband glaring at

the water from a crumbling, graffiticovered

wall.

Back aboard the ferry, he took control

of the situation. ‘Right, you’ve had

your fun. Tomorrow it’s Mummy and

Credit: The Sunday Times Travel Magazine / News Licensing

36 worldtravellermagazine.com


IBIZA

This page, clockwise from

above: Whitewashed buildings

in Santa Eulalia on the east

coast of Ibiza; Dalt Vila in

Ibiza Town; decorative

detailing and flowers adorn

the traditional houses

worldtravellermagazine.com 37


IBIZA

These pages: Houses perched

on rocks in Ibiza town

38 worldtravellermagazine.com



WE LOVED THE ISLAND’S

RELAXED EASTERN SIDE SO

MUCH THAT WE BUSTED AMELIE

OUT OF THE KIDS’ CLUB


Daddy’s turn,’ Nat asserted. ‘We’re going

to a beach club.’ It was a brave move.

Any recent excursions in that direction

had involved travel potties, panic over

eating unsavoury sand, and no clubs

whatsoever. Fortuitously, it turned out

that one of Ibiza’s best was a stroll from

the hotel, so we could always run back

if anyone erupted.

Cotton Beach Club is among a handful

of restaurants at Cala Tarida, and a

favourite with the yachting crowd. A

glance at Instagram suggested it was a

place where pneumatic blonde beauties

came to pose with the sea in the

background. Lord knows what they’d

make of us.

Slightly sweaty from ascending the

hundreds of steps from the beach, we

stumbled into the all-white interior

to find it staffed by model types in

minimalist black outfits. Spa music

played softly as we looked out over the

wide terrace, facing the glimmering

sea. It was so glacially beautiful that,

for a moment, we considered legging

it. Then we spotted a sprinkling of

families — even one or two with

children worse-behaved than ours.

In the end, we devoted three languid

hours to lunch, something we hadn’t

achieved since Amelie was born.

Nat and I nibbled fresh prawn curry

and polished off a bottle of decent

white; Amelie and Sonny befriended

some Dutch children and dashed

around a terrace meant for sunset

contemplation. Below, boats skimmed

across the bay as the sun cast millions

of glinting diamonds over the sea.

We had finally hit our Ibizan

stride. We returned to Cotton Beach

later in the holiday, for sushi on its

sunloungers. The kids dipped in and

out of the water and, when boredom

threatened, the jolly bartenders were on

hand with banter and mocktails.

At dusk we swaddled ourselves in

towels for an Ibizan classic — watching

a flaming sun drip like syrup into the

opalescent sea.

Only two things threatened our island

adventures: Karl and Koral. The pesky

Sensatori’s kids’ entertainers were so

damn perky that Amelie instantly loved

them more than she did us. How could

my day-trips compete with mornings of

messy science experiments?

Frantically scouring the internet, I

found an evening out that would pry

her from the kids’ club: Babylon Beach,

a restaurant on a forested spit of sand

at the opposite end of the island, with

children’s entertainment and a Tarzanstyle

rope playground. Bingo.

We arrived to find a kind of crossgenerational

paradise. Nat and I

settled down for drinks under a straw

umbrella, while Amelie had her face

painted as a unicorn, chatting to sixyear-old

boys with press-on Pacha

tattoos. Sonny scribbled in a dragonthemed

colouring book he’d been gifted

before dropping off to the lilt of the sea

and the persistent throb of background

dubstep. With the kids occupied, we

met the owner, Vaughan, a dreadlocked

giant clad in bright African prints, who

first came to Ibiza in the '80s to dance

at Pacha and ended up running the

club’s Funky Room. Now, he watches

over this place alongside business

partner, Angie (not to be outdone, she

was rocking vintage Pucci).

Vaughan told us that Babylon Beach

was reminiscent of Ibiza before

the social-media age and police

crackdowns. We agreed: the whole

place radiated a refreshing hippy

permissiveness. And there were kids

— including the owners’. Perhaps when

you’ve seen it all, there’s not much a kid

can do to shock you.

We loved the island’s relaxed eastern

side so much that we busted Amelie

out of the kids’ club again the following

day, making for the crescent of yellow

sand at Cala San Vicente. We went via

the whitewashed hilltop village of Sant

Joan (brightly painted shutters and

empty lanes instead of noisy clubs and

tourist-trap restaurants) and found

ourselves sharing the beach with just

two people, a pair of bohemian types

with a bongo. Thankfully, it remained

unplayed, and we whiled away the

afternoon tucking into just-caught fish

amid the unreconstructed ’60s charm

of Restaurant Es Caló, the children

building sandcastles between courses.

It was the perfect day, unmarred

by the pressures of fitting in with a

designer-clad crowd at a posh hangout.

In fact, the whole holiday had hit the

spot, packed with low-key places that

appealed to all of us (on other less

successful trips, we’ve alternated

soft-play days and disgruntled adults

with museum days and bored kids). It

was even a relief, eventually, to have

Karl and Koral on call, should Nat and

I want to visit a spa or have a drink on

our own. Nevertheless, as I joined the

kids in scooping up seashells in the

afternoon sun, I prayed that Amelie had

forgotten the evening disco.

Inspired to travel? To book a trip, call

+971 4 316 6666 or visit dnatatravel.com

worldtravellermagazine.com 39


SWEDEN


OVER THE

COURSE OF A

LONG WEEKEND,

COULD I HAVE MY

CINNAMON BUN

AND EAT IT?


40 worldtravellermagazine.com


Style in the cities, rugged good

looks in the country – Liz Edwards

has always harboured two

separate Swedish fantasies. Would

combining both in one break be

too much of what she fancied?

worldtravellermagazine.com 41


SWEDEN

icture Sweden

and what do you

see? An ice-cool,

design-forward

place of chic

interiors shops,

progressive

attitudes towards

cyclists and coffee

shops filled with paternity-leave ‘latte

papas’? Or endless miles of pine-spiked

wilderness, interrupted only by sparkling

stretches of water, cutesy wooden cabins

and wholesome types in hiking boots

and Fair Isle jumpers? Unhelpfully for

holiday-booking purposes, my mind’s

eye was split-screen, with both versions

playing out side by side (plus a few clips

of Abba and Alexander Skarsgård thrown

in for good measure). Torn between

the two, and with my husband short

on annual leave, I made an executive

decision — we’d try to squeeze in both.

OK, more like an executive indecision.

But over the course of a long weekend,

could I have my cinnamon bun and eat

it? I settled on west-coast Gothenburg as

our city start before we headed off into

the wilds. A bit of a Scandiphile, I’d long

had my eye on Stockholm’s little sister,

with its reputation for excellent food.

Swedish friends had promised an edgier

feel than I’d found in the sophisticated,

clean-cut capital. I was expecting beards.

What was great, in theory, about my

plan was that it meant two holidays in

one. What was terrible was the packing.

Desk-to-forest fashion may be a thing

in Sweden, but not in my wardrobe. So

the ‘wear your bulkiest items on the

plane’ rule saw us making our entrance

at the glossy Clarion Hotel Post in

scuffed walking boots, clumping in

among the beautiful, city-chic Scandis.

Of course they didn’t care, and nor

did we once we’d re-urbanised slightly

and landed back out on the streets.

Gothenburg began as a 17th-century

trading settlement, fortified and

surrounded with zigzag canals that were

later adorned with handsome bridges

and Neo-Classical houses built by East

India Trading Company merchants.

And it was modern-day merchants that

we were after now — there’s no quicker

route to a Scandi state of mind than a

drift round its effortlessly, ineffably


EVEN THE

UNCOOL BITS OF

GOTHENBERG

WERE CHARMING

AND QUAINT


cool shops. (My husband might have

preferred shortcutting via the cinnamonbun

route, but there was time for that,

too...) The area around Magasinsgatan

has been the trendy part of town for the

past few years, I’d heard, and sure enough

we found plenty of the sort of store

that allows you to daydream yourself

Swedish: there was the homegrown

Nudie Jeans shop; Granit’s simplefunctional

interiors; and fashion and

accessories in Miksajo, whose owner

also runs a local project promoting

female street artists (you wouldn’t

get that in graffiti-free Stockholm).

In one single square just off

Magasinsgatan, we hit peak

gorgeousness: lifestyle store Grandpa

with its designer toothbrushes, retro

dartboards and minimal fashion; wantwant-want

interiors shop Artilleriet;

and groovy café Da Matteo, sharing a

sparrow-hopping backyard with florist

Floramor & Krukatös. As we sat there

over home-roast coffee with cardamom

and cinnamon buns (husband now

happy), I realised this was, officially,

fika: Swedish snacking is only fika when

it’s sociable. The scene was an uncanny

match for one half of my split screen.

Before you eye-roll at the relentless

perfection of it all, it’s worth pointing

out that from some angles, the skyline

is dominated not by spirey churches,

but by the red-and white Lego-ish

‘Lipstick’ tower, generally accepted to

be one of Sweden’s ugliest buildings.

Gothenburg is also the home of Volvo,

and — don’t yawn! — the Volvo Museum.

A city break’s not a city break without

a culture fix, but even in our walking

boots, we’d have felt too cool for that.

So, the next morning, we set our sights

on Vasastan, the boulevardy museumand-gallery

district. Alas Röhsska,

the museum of design and craft, was

Credit: The Sunday Times Travel Magazine / News Licensing

42 worldtravellermagazine.com


SWEDEN

Opening pages, from left:

Traditional cinnamon bun; boats and

colourful boat houses on Sweden's

west coast

These pages, clockwise from left:

Dusk descends over Gothenberg;

the managers and a sample dish

from Gothenberg's Michelin-starred

restaurant Koka

still under wraps after a two-year

renovation (it’s open again now), but

standing at the top of Kungsportavenyen,

surrounded by concert hall, state

theatre, library, two cinemas and two

art centres, I reckoned we’d cope.

And the Gothenburg Museum of

Art, an industrial looking yellow-brick

edifice, was a treat: a pleasing mix of

international styles — Picasso, Monet,

Braque, Degas — alongside a good

collection of Scandinavian artists. Not all

moody Munchs, either — Carl Larsson’s

cheeky 19th-century family portraits

were a revelation. It was in Gothenburg

that, at the turn of the century, the

Artists’ Union formed in opposition to

the stuffier Stockholm Academy, and

playfulness is still in evidence. The most

striking piece of all was by local woman

Cajsa von Zeipel: a giant sculpture of a

scrawny, stony-faced dancer, revolving

slowly upside-down round a pole.

Lately, it’s been in the culinary arts that

Gothenburg’s been making a name for

itself. The city’s six Michelin stars might

sound modest, but that pips London to

the post for stars per inhabitant. Dinner

the night before had been at Familjen,

the casual sibling to Koka, one of those

six. Excellent sourdough came with sour

cream and smoked cod roe; a delicate,

umami-laced arctic char with pickled

shitake and mushroom vinaigrette

was like Scandi summer in a dish. It

couldn't have been more Swedish had

it been made by the Muppets' chef.

And our post-art lunch was

similarly on-message.

Over in Långgatan, the new up-andcoming

district west of the city centre,

we sat in Kafe Magasinet’s magazineshoot-ready

glass-roofed courtyard

among macramé pots, bamboo furniture

and industrial bulbs. On the menu were

vegan salads, generously filled bagels and

the best avocado and egg on sourdough

I think I’ve ever had. Honestly, it felt like

Gothenburg could do no wrong. Even the

uncool bits were charming and quaint:

our wander back to the hotel through

Haga, the picturesque old district of

cobbles and timbered houses, took in an

artisan clog shop, a higgledy-piggledy

Aladdin’s cave-ish vintage store, and

a bakery selling cinnamon rolls the

size of cinema reels. (Volvo museum, I

reminded myself.) Time for the other

Sweden. You don’t have to go far out

of Gothenburg to find an outdoorsy

escape. West of the city, ferries from

Saltholmen will deliver you to islands

such as Styrsö, with its golf buggies and

holiday-vibe cafés, in 40 minutes. But

my internet quest for waterside cabins

had led me towards a village in the

Bohuslän region north of Gothenburg,

Lyckorna — in some translations,

that’s a place called Happiness.

worldtravellermagazine.com 43


SWEDEN

Driving north of the city, we were

quickly out among birches and pines,

spotting red-roofed farmhouses and

squadrons of geese. And 45 minutes

after waving the Lipstick building

goodbye, we were pulling up just outside

Lyckorna — actually beyond Happiness

— at Anfasteröd Gårdsvik. It’s a seaside

campsite, but not really what you might

expect if British seaside campsites are

your benchmark. Yes, there were plots for

tents and caravans and motorhomes, and

no, it wasn’t in the depths of wilderness

among moose and wolves. But it was

instantly beguiling. A white clapboard

reception-and-restaurant building sat

facing the sheltering islands that keep

the sea lake-calm. Little jetties reached

out into the water; fields and beech trees

ran along the shore either side; clouds

like whipped cream hung in the blue,

skimming distant hilltops. And besides

the temporary plots, there were a handful

of simple cabins with kitchenettes. Ours

stood on the edge of the site; from its

veranda, our view was basically of sea

and forest, and the occasional rainbow.

The loudest sound we heard was the

ping of acorns dropping onto the deck.

So we could play at splendid isolation,

then wander over to the main building

for knockout breakfasts, boat and bike

hire, and local intel from owners Hanna

and Magnus (H&M! So Swedish).

That first afternoon, Hanna showed

us one of the walking trails through

the woods above the site, pointing

out edible mushrooms and berries

beneath the spruces, ferns and oaks.

‘The forest is so good for kids,’ she

enthused. ‘It’s like a museum where

you can touch everything!’ Even

without a Fair Isle jumper, she basically

completed the picture in the other half

of my split-screen. Then improved

on it when she broke out the flask of

coffee and home-baked cinnamon

buns. Fika in the forest with sea-island

views would take some beating.

But beaten it was, by Gårdsvik’s floating


OUR 36 HOURS

ON THE COAST

PASSED IN A

WHOOSH OF

FRESH AIR, ROSY

CHEEKS AND

ADVENTURES

IN NATURE


44 worldtravellermagazine.com


These pages: Tall pine

trees aside calm water

in the forest

sauna. I told you this was no normal

campsite; I thought I might keel over in

delight when I saw it. Fired up for us after

our walk, the wooden cabin was tethered

to one of the jetties, so we bobbed gently,

soaking up scenery and piney heat for

as long as we could bear, before dashing

outside to plunge into the sea, swim a few

strokes, clamber back up the steps and

start again. It was tingly, invigorating,

therapeutic. It was wonderful.

And so our 36 hours on the coast

passed in a whoosh of fresh air, rosy

cheeks and adventures in nature, as if

we were characters in a children’s book

(somewhere between Pippi Longstocking

and Swallows & Amazons). We cycled along

the coast to some excellent restaurants

(their proximity another reason to

choose campsite over wilderness). We

tried crabbing off the jetty: aquavit-clear

water gave the crabs a disadvantage, our

lack of skill levelled the playing field.

And we hired a little blue-and-white

motorboat from Magnus. He kitted us

out with wooden fishing reels, pots

of bait, a map showing sea depth and

nearest islands, and a weighty picnic

basket. Beyond the mussel farms, where

cormorants perched to hang their

wings out to dry, we killed the engine

and followed Magnus’s instructions

as best we could on the bait and lines.

And eventually had to accept that our

‘fishing’ was really just an elaborately

slow way of feeding the local mackerel.

So we picked one of the dozens of

castaway islands for our picnic. A shellcrunchy

sand bar between boulders,

heather and trees gave us easy mooring

on, I think, Birch Island — Björkholmen.

Sure enough, it was oh so quiet; Sunday

yachts drifted past, but we had the

place to ourselves. We sat on lichengilded

rocks and unpacked lunch:

moose sandwiches, homemade rock

buns. Sweden had worked its magic:

Gothenburg seemed aeons ago, home

even more distant. And maybe this was

where the beauty of my indecision lay.

By taking two holidays in one, it felt like

we’d left everyday life twice as far behind.

Inspired to travel? To book a trip, call

+971 4 316 6666 or visit dnatatravel.com

worldtravellermagazine.com 45


46 worldtravellermagazine.com


GREECE

Who said you had to be Abramovich to voyage

in sumptuous style? Jeremy Lazell and family sail

Greece’s Ionian islands on a rarefied odyssey

worldtravellermagazine.com 47


quite fancy being a Russian oligarch.

Pootling about on my superyacht,

motoring ashore for cocktails and

calamari, securing pipeline deals on

deck, while staff top up my drink.

Trouble is, I don’t have a superyacht,

there are no pipeline deals, only an

ever-expanding overdraft and 27 years

left on the mortgage. But two things

happened recently to change all that.

First, my mother died and left us

some money, simultaneously wiping

out the overdraft and reminding me

that life is too short for 'What's the

sensible thing to do?' Second, a fellow

boat-nut told me about Argentous —

a four-cabin, 20-metre yacht based

in the Greek islands that bridges

the gap between no-frills skippered

yachts and all-frills Abramovich-level

superyachts. It's long been a fantasy of

mine to island-hop in private luxury,

so we weigh everything up, convince

ourselves it's what my mum would have

wanted, and fly out en famille to Corfu.

We are picked up at the Corfu Imperial

Grecotel, skipper Charlie scooping us

up from the hotel’s beach in a mini

speedboat that later packs away like

something out of Thunderbirds into

— those reading this in the hope of

improving their yachting vocabulary

should look away now — the 'boot' of

Argentous. Speeding out across the

bay, my 11-year-old stares at the sailing

boat, which gleams like an Aston

Martin among a fleet of Trabants.

'People must think we›re millionaires',

he says, stifling an enormous grin.

On board, the grins get bigger. And

it's not just the kids. Upstairs (abovedecks?),

the area beyond the steering

wheel (helm?) looks like the VIP chillout

zone of an uber-hip Ibiza nightclub,

with wraparound slate-grey sofas we

instantly earmark for sundowners.

Beyond that, slung between a towering

27-metre mast and spinnaker, a

hammock beckons just back from

the bow. Half of me instantly frets

about the havoc my kids will wreak

on the pristine decor; the other half

is happy sipping the welcome drink

brought by our host, Joy.

Because although Argentous costs at

least twice the price of most skipperedyacht

charters on the Med (which,

incidentally, generally require you to

cook for the skipper), it also comes

with the aforementioned host, who

cooks, cleans, tidies your room, makes

your bed and generally spoils you to

within an inch of your indecently

privileged life. 'What time would you

like canapés?' Joy asks as we bounce

on the sofas and giggle.

The plan is a five-day sail around

Paxos and Antipaxos, with Charlie, a

Royal Yachting Association instructor,

eager to let us help out or — in our case

— let us lie back as the mood dictates.

Before coming, I’d pictured my three

boys pulling on ropes and clambering

up rigging, blinking at the horizon

and turning into men before my eyes.

However, not 20 minutes into our

first sail across the Corfu Channel, all

three disappear below deck to watch a

DVD. For about seven seconds the wife

and I wonder whether we mind, then

sink back on to the sofas and gaze at

the waves.

That evening is a strange one. We

drop anchor about two hours south

of Corfu town in a secluded bay. We

play Uno over canapés, Joy serves us a

delicious dinner above-decks, a warm

sea-breeze drifts in below a pulsing

smear of stars. We are living the family

holiday dream. And yet, the problem is

we're on a boat. Yes, it's a seriously nice

boat. Yes, the bed in our master cabin is

bigger than our double at home. But it's

still a boat. It rocks, it creaks, it wakes

me up with urgent noises from the ensuite.

Some time around 4am, $13,000

suddenly feels like a lot of money to


AT 6AM I GO

UP ON DECK.

IT IS A SCENE

OF ALMOST

LUDICROUS

BEAUTY


spend on a week of no sleep, with three

kids who’d rather watch Harry Potter

DVDs than learn to sail.

At 6am I give in and go up on deck. It

is a scene of almost ludicrous beauty,

like the British Virgin Islands circa

1950. We are all alone below a rocky,

uninhabited island, the water slack

and glassy, the only signs of life a pair

of gulls painted pink against a vast,

rising sun. I step down to the back of

the boat and dive in. It is sunrise in the

Mediterranean, I am swimming on my

own, drifting round the boat — my

boat. Climbing back on board, I found

it utterly impossible to remember what

made me so grumpy the night before.

It is the start of perhaps the best

day in this family's life. The original

plan was for a three- or four-hour sail

to Paxos, but Charlie, sensing we’re

a lot less Ellen MacArthur than most

Argentous clients, suggests we stay and

play instead. Because as well as having

its own mini speedboat, Argentous has

more water-sports toys than you can

shake a selfie stick at. For the entire

day, the boys snorkel, windsurf,

paddleboard, waterski, jump off rocks

or scream as they hurtle behind the

speedboat on inflatable tyres.

That night, Charlie runs us by

speedboat to Sivota, a pretty seaside

town on the mainland with a few

modest tavernas and armies of

friendly stray dogs and cats. We feast

on calamari and kleftiko, and feed

fish off the jetty between courses,

sipping drinks in the balmy night air

as the boys lick ice cream and cuddle

kittens on their lap. ‘I love Greece,’

says the eight-year-old, a splash of

freckles on his sunkissed cheeks. I

know exactly what he means.

The next day we do sail to Paxos. I say

‘we’, but the actual sailing is, obviously,

down to Charlie.

I'd love to reveal that, having fallen

in love with the sea the day before,

the boys are impossible to prise

from the helm, but as it happens,

they're mostly back below-decks with

Harry Potter. 'Those box sets won't

watch themselves', says the 12-yearold.

Still slightly heady on yesterday's

Credit: The Sunday Times Travel Magazine/ News Licensing

48 worldtravellermagazine.com


GREECE

This page, clockwise from above:

Erimitis beach on the west coast

of Paxos; a plate of fried calamari;

an elderly local surveys the

harbourfront from a first floor

window in Gaios, Paxos

Opening pages: grilled

prawn salad; climbing a

tree against the backdrop

of a fiery sunset

This page: Petit Piton

above Margretoute Bay

worldtravellermagazine.com 49


GREECE


IT’S A CATERED VILLA,

A LUXURY MOBILE HOME

AND SPORTS RESORT ALL

ROLLED INTO ONE


success, it is impossible for me to get

cross with him.

That afternoon we drop anchor in a

preposterously cobalt-coloured bay,

Lakka, beloved of postcard-sellers

and yacht charters. We windsurf,

paddleboard, and take selfies

against the improbable blue, but

somehow the magic is gone, crowded

out by the yachtie hoi polloi.

‘How about a walk?’ suggests Charlie,

delivering a masterstroke. He drops

us ashore, then takes Argentous along

the coast to pick us up in the next

village, Longos, leaving us to follow a

thyme-scented donkey track between

beaches and abandoned watermills,

olive groves and hamlets. I’m not

saying there’s no moaning, but in

between grunts the boys chase crickets,

stroke goats and play Marco Polo

in the shallows at Manadendri Beach. It

feels like we’ve wandered off the tourist

trail to glimpse a Greece that few

people get to see.

What you don’t get on Argentous,

we discover waking to a force-six

wind the next day, is guaranteed good

weather. But Plan A's loss (we had been

aiming for the indecently photogenic

Voutoumi Bay on Antipaxos) is

Plan B’s gain, as we divert to Porto

Ozias, a one-taverna inlet at the

eastern end of Paxos. Glassily calm

and inexplicably free of other boats,

the inlet is a gloriously windless shelter

from the storm. For hours we windsurf

and wakeboard, sunbathe and read,

eventually sailing in for dinner in

Paxos’s main town, Gaios, where our

boys play football on the cobbles below

the church.

So far, so Instagram, but don’t you

get exactly the same memories — for

half the price — on a bog-standard

skippered-yacht charter? Well, actually,

no. For one thing those bog-standard

charters might occasionally have a

mini speedboat to ferry you between

boat and port, but with nowhere near

enough horsepower to tow a waterski or

wakeboard. Take away the water sports,

and a yacht — for kids — is basically a

floating prison.

But more than that, Argentous makes

you feel like royalty. It’s partly just the

sleek lines, the teak deck, the towering

mast. As we pulled into Gaios, people

actually got out of their boats (daubed

in rental-agency logos) for a better look.

But it’s also the service: no-frills yacht

charters are hard work. You cook, you

clean, you pull ropes, you shop: it’s fun,

but you’ll need a holiday afterwards. With

Joy below-decks and Charlie at the helm,

the only finger you lift on Argentous is

the pinky on your drink. It’s a catered

villa, a luxury mobile home and sports

resort all rolled into one.

On our last day, we sail back into

Gouvia marina on Corfu, all five of us

sitting silently on-deck in pre-emptive

mourning. ‘You’ll just have to come

back next summer,’ says Joy. Yeah,

right. At $13,000 a week and without

another inheritance on the horizon, it's

a 'probably not' from us. However, there

were times on this trip — wakeboarding

in that abandoned cove, swimming

round the boat at dawn, playing cards on

deck — when we felt so truly spoilt, so

dizzyingly privileged, I knew it was worth

every penny.

A year on, Argentous’s owners have

added three more luxury yachts to

their fleet. One, Aurous, is a five-cabin

catamaran with a trampoline and

sundeck. My advice? Nab it before my

kids get wind of that trampoline.

Inspired to travel? To book a trip, call

+971 4 316 6666 or visit dnatatravel.com

50 worldtravellermagazine.com


These pages: Sunset bridges the gap

between Corfu and Sivota island

worldtravellermagazine.com 51


BOOK NOW AND REVEAL YOUR

PERFECT STAY

CALL OUR SECRET AGENTS AT 04 389 8999

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on www.dnatatravel.com, call our Secret Agents

on 04 389 8999, or come visit us in store.

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Weekends

Staycations and short-haul escapes

HANG OUT

Suspend disbelief and succumb to mother

nature at Anantara Kalutara Resort on

Sri Lanka's picturesque southwest coast.

A tropical modernist retreat inspired by

renowned local architect Geoffrey Bawa,

its utterly beguiling setting has the added

distinction of being the only resort to

offer panoramic Indian Ocean and Kalu

Ganga estuary views. Enough said.

worldtravellermagazine.com 53


WEEKENDS

CULTURE TRIP

Let us reacquaint you with this

culture spot that’s ideally placed

for a mind-nourishing mini break

3

ATHENS

Odeon of Herodes Atticus

Photo @Thomas Daskalakis

HISTORICAL SITES

In the heart of the city lies the famous Acropolis.

These ancient hilltop ruins, widely considered

the birthplace of democracy, are home to

several historic buildings including the standout

Parthenon. Be sure to arrive early to beat the

crowds that gather to admire this sculptural

feat. To admire a blend of old and new, head to

Astir Beach (a favourite holiday spot among the

Athenian elite just 20 minutes south of the city

centre), where the Temple Apollo Zoster sits just a

stone’s throw from the sparkling sea.

MUSEUMS AND ART GALLERIES

Back at the Acropolis, brush-up on your Grecian

history at the Acropolis Museum (the Chisel and

Memory exhibition is running until 31 October).

Next, head downtown to the Benaki Museum in

the downtown area. This compelling culture spot

has a lively line-up of exhibitions and events, as

well as an impressive collection of Islamic art.

Check out The Same River Twice: Contemporary

Art in Athens exhibition from two locally-based

artists, which focuses on the city's evolving artistic

landscape. Trendy creative hangout Trii Art Hub

(in Koukaki opposite the National Museum of

Modern Art) is the place to go to view works by

emerging artists.

THIS MONTH'S HIGHLIGHT

The city's annual Athens and

Epidaurus Festival is running

from June to October, with

artists including Andrea

Bocelli and Florence and the

Machine taking to the stage.

Performances take place at

various venues, including

the ancient theatres of the

Odeon Herodes Atticus

and Epidaurus. Hot tickets

this month are the Opera

ARTISAN FINDS

Gala (28) and Prometheus

by Aeschylus (29 and 30). Athens is a famous hub for pottery and

ticketmaster.gr

earthenware, and there are plenty of places

to shop for ceramics. At Trabala Studio in Koukaki,

you can pick out pieces that have been handcrafted

before your eyes. A destination where

olive trees thrive, it's natural that olive oil is also a

popular buy – you'll find a number of shops selling

it in Plaka and Monastiraki.

LOCAL FLAVOUR

Dine at the critically acclaimed ManiMani in Plaka,

where traditional dishes are served with a modern

twist. And don’t miss the home-style cooking and

live Greek music at Tavern Klimataria in Theatrou –

a rustic restaurant open since 1927.

The Margi

WHERE TO STAY

The family-run The Margi luxury boutique in

Vouliagmeni places you steps away from the

sandy beaches yet within easy reach of the city's

historical sites. Design hotel AthensWas, in the

heart of the city, is a sound choice for art buffs.

54 worldtravellermagazine.com


YOUR GUIDE TO DUBAI’S

MUST-HAVE VISITOR EXPERIENCES

www.dxbcityexpert.com

5


long

the

weekend

Bahrain

A fascinating knit of age-old tradition

and modernity, this Gulf island draws

you in with its wave of contrasts

This page: The Kingdom of

Bahrain © Bahrain Tourism

and Exhibitions Authority

Opposite: Sheikh Isa Bin

Ali House in Muharraq

© Bahrain Tourism and

Exhibitions Authority

56 worldtravellermagazine.com


LONG WEEKEND

Known as The Land of the Two Seas, the Kingdom of Bahrain is

something of a double-sided coin. You’ll find all the trademarks

of modern Arab opulence here – stylish mega malls and daringlyhigh

skyscrapers – but beyond all that glitz and glamour, intriguing

historic sites and a burgeoning culture scene speak loudly of the

city’s proud heritage.

Long considered the epicentre of the Gulf’s pearling past,

Bahrain has been the hub for the world’s richest oyster beds for

centuries, an asset that shaped the island's fortunes for millennia.

It’s also home to one of the oldest civilisations in the Middle East,

the Dilmun civilisation, where ancient burial mounds that date

back to 3000 BCE can be found in A’ali village. Today the kingdom

boasts its own Formula 1 Grand Prix, a thriving art scene and a

globally diverse mosaic of fantastic cuisines. This multi-layered

and multicultural destination is a hidden gem often overlooked

by travellers but scratch the surface and you’ll find an allencompassing

adventure.

While it may maintain a lower-key reputation among its Gulf

neighbours, Bahrain has its own share of heavyweight attractions

and therein lies the kingdom’s genuine charm. Here’s how to craft

an itinerary that takes in all the best bits…

STYLISH SLEEPS

Sink into luxury at these chic abodes

Jumeirah Royal Saray

The Ritz-Carlton, Bahrain

Perched on a five-hectare

private island in the

kingdom’s capital, Four

Seasons Hotel Bahrain

Bay is an architectural

gem that has a great

view of the bay – you can

opt to arrive by boat for

a glamorous entrance.

A short cab ride away,

Jumeirah Royal Saray sits

confidently on a private

beach in Manama’s new

Seef district, beautifully

enclosed by the Arabian

Sea. The hotel has 167

guestrooms, including

two Royal Suites and

a variety of impressive

restaurants to choose

from. Also located in Seef,

The Ritz-Carlton, Bahrain

has its own private beach,

lagoon and island as

well as 11 dining venues,

including an authentic

Mexican restaurant with

vibrant décor inspired by

Frida Kahlo. Over on the

western shores, Sofitel

Bahrain Zallaq Thalassa

Sea & Spa Hotel is home

to the only sea water spa

in the GCC – ideal for a

detox session without the

hardship. Exciting dining

options and nightlife are

also on menu, from local

specialities to the sway of

belly dancing.

worldtravellermagazine.com 57


spice it up

Savour the true flavours

of the city

EMMAWASH. This eclectic

bistro first began as the

dream of two childhood

friends who wanted to

bring the flavours of their

homes to the restaurant

scene. Today, it's one of the

most beloved eateries in

the kingdom for its homely

ambience. Tuck into

Bahraini favourites such

as balaleet – a traditional

sweet and savoury dish –

and beef tikka. For those

who wish to end their meal

on a sweet note, qayamat is

the dish to plump for.

CHAI CAFÉ. Chai, meaning

tea in Arabic, has been a

breakfast staple in Bahraini

culture for years. And

when you can get your

sweet and milky karak Chai

in an edible biscuit cup,

visiting this cosy café in the

morning is a no-brainer.

SAFFRON BY JENA.

Playing testament to the

unique flavours of authentic

Bahraini cuisine, this

family-friendly restaurant

combines the old with

the new to bring you a

contemporary twist on

culinary traditions passed

down the generations. You

won’t find a menu, but a

bunch of tasty, traditional

dishes served in customary

Bahraini fashion.

DOWN TO

A FINE ART

Discover the city’s

artistic flair

La Fontaine Centre

of Contemporary

Art. Capturing the

grand essence of a

European château

while maintaining the

charm of authentic Gulf

Islamic architecture, this

150-year-old creative hub

blends the distinctive

work of traditional

artistry with innovative

contemporary delights.

With a yoga and Pilates

studio, a fine-dining

restaurant, an open-air

amphitheatre and a

spa within the complex,

exploring here can easily

be a day-long affair.

Arabesque Art Gallery.

Widely recognised as the

main outlet for antique

Middle Eastern art, this

long-standing gallery

exhibits the oil and

watercolour paintings

of its owner, Wahab Al

Koheji, as he depicts

everyday life in Bahrain.

An added bonus is its

great selection of 19th

century lithographs

created by David Robert

during his long tours of

the region.

Al Al-Jasra Handicraft

Centre. From brightlycoloured

woven baskets,

tapestry and mats to

exquisitely painted

stained glass mosaics

and pottery, learn

more about the city’s

indigenous art forms as

you watch local artisans

perfect their crafts. Love

what you see? Craftworks

can be bought directly

from their maker or from

the on-site gift shop.

Shop 'til you drop

Bring home these cultural gems

Slip on your comfiest shoes and pound the cobblestone

alleyways of a market that still evokes the ambience of

ancient times, Manama Souq. Here, you’ll find quaint

little souvenir shops that display local goodies, from

exotic Persian rugs to spices and shisha pipes. But you

can’t really visit the Pearl of the Gulf without checking

out Gold City, a pearl-lover’s paradise overflowing with

precious gemstones of all shapes, sizes and colours.

A simple custom-made gold pendant of your name in

Arabic is a must-take-home keepsake. Haggle your way

until you reach Kingdom of Perfumes and watch the

mesmerising way a perfumer can mix seemingly random

oils to produce the very aroma you requested.

58 worldtravellermagazine.com


LONG WEEKEND

OUTDOOR ALLURE

Enjoy an action-packed weekend

Opposite page, from top: The traditional

Bahraini dish Balaleet; La Fontaine Centre of

Contemporary Art; display of traditional Bahraini

clothes in Manama Souq

This page from top: Pearl diving in the Gulf

© Jumeirah Royal Saray Hotel; UNESCO World

Heritage Site Qal'at Al Bahrain

PEARL DIVING. For more than 2,000 years,

Bahrain’s pearls have been prized as one of

the most beautiful natural gems in the world.

Dive into the warm azure waters of the Gulf

and unravel Bahrain’s legacy while seeking

underwater treasures. There are four diving

sites to discover. Simply don your scuba gear

and set sail from Ras Rayya to collect some

oysters – you can keep any treasures inside.

BAHRAIN INTERNATIONAL CIRCUIT. With its

roaring engines and thrilling atmosphere, daredevils

are in for a ride as they watch top drivers jostle for

a prime position at this impressive motorsports

venue, which hosts the annual Formula 1 Gulf

Air Bahrain Grand Prix. Better yet, buckle up

for an exciting drive around the karting track.

ARABIAN HORSE RIDING. Experience a

true taste of Arabia as you ride a pure blood

Arabian horse across the stunning landscape.

Book your experience with Ghazwan

Equestrian Centre and enjoy a picturesque

sunset gallop along Karbabad Beach.

insider tips

Jeremy Tutt shares

insider tips and

tricks on exploring

the city

Words: Habiba Azab

“Whether it's pearl

diving with Scubalife, making waves at

Durrat Marina Yacht Club, or just lounging

on the sand, the azure waters around

the island are stunning and should be

enjoyed. I particularly like the beaches

at Jumeirah Royal Saray and The Ritz-

Carlton, Bahrain, however there are a

lot of other options, including the ART

Rotana in Amwaj Islands as well as Coral

Beach Club at the Coral Bay Resort. A

trip to Hawar Island is also a must-do for

all nature lovers and wildlife adventurers.

Alternatively, check out Adliya, the

bohemian neighbourhood is the place to

go for a gourmet meal. I love the Thai at

Hash House and the curry at Lanterns

is consistently good, whereas Re Asian

Cuisine on the 48 th floor of the Four

Seasons Hotel offers spectacular views.”

MANY

MOONS AGO

Take a stroll through

history and discover the

beauty of a bygone era

The cradle of one

of the most ancient

civilisations in the

Middle East, the Dilmun

civilisation, Bahrain is

steeped in a 6000-year

history. Explore the

northern side of the

kingdom and unravel

the beauty of one of

the world’s largest

mosques, Al Fateh

Mosque, as well as one

of the first museums

in the gulf, Bahrain

National Museum.

After you explore

its diverse range of

treasures, including

artefacts uncovered

at local archaeological

sites, make UNESCO

World Heritage Site

Qal’at Al Bahrain your

next stop. Believed

to have been the

capital of the ancient

Dilmun Empire, soak

up breath-taking

views of the sparkling

blue waters and the

city skyline at one

of the most prolific

archaeological digs in

the Arabian Gulf.

worldtravellermagazine.com 59


WORLD TRAVELLER X DCT ABU DHABI

THREE WAYS TO EXPERIENCE ABU DHABI...

Museum hopping

Renowned for its forward-thinking art scene and landmark

institutions, the UAE capital is a top spot for exciting exhibitions…

1If you have kids in tow, you can

send them on an interactive

educational journey thanks to A

Costume Adventure at the Children’s

Museum at Louvre Abu Dhabi. Little

learners can view the original artworks

on display and complete various

challenges, collecting accessories to

transform them into real-life versions

of the art. Mission complete, head out

into the museum galleries to see all

the great exhibits. Suitable for ages

4-10 (a toddler space for under 4s is

also available). louvreabudhabi.ae

2The oldest and most significant

heritage site in the UAE capital,

Qasr Al Hosn has been carefully

restored as a cultural monument

dedicated to keeping the emirate’s

history alive. The Inner Fort exhibition

tells the story of the site and all it has

witnessed, offering a glimpse into

everyday life in the fort, which was

once home to the ruling family. The

Outer Palace displays the stories of

the people who lived in there through

film, interactive displays and spoken

testimonies. alhosn.ae

3

Relive your college days by

paying a trip the NYU Abu

Dhabi campus, which is home

to its very own academic museumgallery

showcasing international and

local exhibitions. Art buffs can expect

to see experimental pieces that step

outside the box. This September, the

Speculative Landscapes exhibition is

set to do just that, with installations

by four UAE-based artists that offer

an ethereal take on the natural

environment. From 16 September to

7 December. nyuad-artgallery.org

Photo: Qasr Al Hosn

60 worldtravellermagazine.com


DESTINATION:

LOUVRE ABU DHABI

© Department of Culture and Tourism – Abu Dhabi / Photo by Hufton+Crow. Architect: Jean Nouvel.

SEE HUMANITY IN A NEW LIGHT

Louvre Abu Dhabi brings different cultures together

to shine light on the shared stories of human creativity.

Admission: AED 63, children under 13 free

BOOK

A DAY

AWAY

louvreabudhabi.ae


WORLD TRAVELLER X JW MARRIOTT MARQUIS DUBAI

STAYCATION

JW Marriott Marquis Dubai

Reach for the sky at the world’s tallest five-star hotel

ROOMS & SUITES

Wake up in the clouds and revel in

stunning floor-to-ceiling views of the

city's futuristic skyline or the turquoise

waters of the Arabian Gulf. Sleek suites

boast marshmallow soft beddings

and soundproof windows for a serene

slumber, while Executive rooms come

with perks including complimentary

drinks, a continental breakfast and

afternoon tea in the lounge.

THE FOOD

Foodies are spoilt for choice with

more than 14 dining venues offering a

selection of delicacies from around the

world. Splurge on a unique sky-high

dinner at Prime68 steakhouse before

heading for a glitzy nightcap at Vault.

To spice it up, the recently opened

Masala Library by Jiggs Kalra serves

traditional recipes from ancient India

with a contemporary twist.

THE ACTIVITIES

Discover the shiniest gems the city has

to offer with top attractions including

The Dubai Mall, Burj Khalifa and Dubai

Opera right around the corner. After a

day out and about, pamper yourself back

at the hotel with a mini refresh at Saray

Spa. Soothing body massages, bespoke

facials and holistic rituals draw upon

the spa's Arabian heritage for a top-totoe

rejuvenating experience.

To find out more, call +971 4 414 3000 or visit jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com

62 worldtravellermagazine.com


25% off your stay and free breakfast.

Take advantage of an exclusive summer offer* at the world’s tallest 5-star hotel. Enjoy a 25% off your

stay and a complimentary breakfast for stays until 30 September 2019. Sign up for free as a Marriott

Bonvoy member and unlock a world of summer adventures across more than 250 hotels in Middle

East and Africa.

Available at more than 250 hotels across the Middle East and Africa. Join Marriott Bonvoy

to take advantage of this exclusive offer.

Terms and Conditions:

Only valid when booking directly on Marriott.com or via its reservation centers. When booking through other channels,

as well as when no Marriott Bonvoy membership is provided, the discount is 15% off and breakfast is not included.

JW Marriott® Marquis® Hotel Dubai

jwmarriott.com/DXBJW

Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay, PO Box 121000, Dubai, UAE | T +971.4.414.0000 | jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com


WORLD TRAVELLER X THE ST. REGIS ABU DHABI

STAYCATION

The St. Regis Abu Dhabi

Soar to new heights with this royally memorable staycation

ROOMS & SUITES

Timeless tradition and Arabian

decadence combine to create a regal

experience for all guests. Start by calling

upon your private butler (a signature

service of the hotel) to help you unpack

in the world’s highest suspended suite.

The Abu Dhabi Suite is ideal for hosting

gatherings with its three bedrooms,

private cinema and spa. Host a special

occasion here from Dhs300 per person.

THE FOOD

Gourmands will delight in the creative

flair and flavour at each of the restaurants

here. Dine at Villa Toscana for authentic

Tuscan and Italian cuisine. Inspired

by tradition, you can expect dishes

handcrafted to perfection. For tastes of

the Mediterranean and sunset views,

head to Azura where we recommend you

start with the baked feta and follow with

a signature table grill.

ACTIVITIES

The littlest of staycationers should

head to Treasure Island Children’s

Club for an exciting host of supervised

activities and games. Meanwhile,

mum and dad can get in the zone for

some serious summer relaxation with

the Remède Spa Shared Indulgence

package. And as the sun begins to set,

enjoy some family fun looking out on

the clear waters of the Arabian Gulf.

To find out more, call +971 2 694 4444 or stregisabudhabi.com

64 worldtravellermagazine.com


Abu Dhabi’s Finest Urban Resort

The St. Regis Abu Dhabi soars to new heights of splendour and service beyond

expectation. Located at the vibrant heart of Abu Dhabi with a 200 metre stretch of

pristine beach, overlooking the turquoise waters of the Arabian Gulf which is home

to the Nation Riviera Beach Club at the finest address in the city.

The St. Regis Abu Dhabi

Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates t. +971 2 694 4444 stregisabudhabi.com

©2019 Marriott International, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Preferred Guest, SPG, St. Regis and their logos are the trademarks of Marriott International, Inc., or its affiliates.

Stay exquisite at more than 40 St. Regis hotels and resorts worldwide.

@stregishotels


WORLD TRAVELLER X DUKES THE PALM, A ROYAL HIDEAWAY HOTEL

STAYCATION

Dukes The Palm, a Royal Hideaway Hotel

Where British hospitality meets Dubai-style luxury

ROOMS AND SUITES

Check in to a luxurious room at this

Palm Jumeirah property, which will

win you over with its British charm.

Larger families will find all the creature

comforts they need inside the one- or

two-bedroom family suites. Unwind in

the separate living area to experience

a 'home away from home' feel. Book

a staycation over Eid Al Adha for just

Dhs650 per night with breakfast.

THE FOOD

From sumptuous breakfast buffets

to light lunches, good food is a given

at this five-star hotel. Enjoy a British

supper at the award-winning Great

British Restaurant (GBR). For a spiceladen

affair, indulge in the Mugal-era

menu of Mumbai's showstopping

Khyber restaurant. Or get dressed up to

dine at West 14th Steakhouse, offering

scrumptious steaks and delicate fish.

THE ACTIVITIES

Little visitors aged 4-12 will be fully

engrossed in the DUKESY Kids Club,

where edutainment activities provide

hours of fun. While the kids are busy,

you can make the most of the top-notch

leisure facilities. Venture to the private

beach for a dip in the sea, bring out your

playful side by floating along the Lazy

River, or escape the heat by retreating to

the indoor pool.

To find out more, call +971 4 455 1111 or royalhideaway.com

66 worldtravellermagazine.com


AED

*

650

per night

Kids Go

Free

9 - 17 August 2019

YOUR PACKAGE INCLUDES COMPLIMENTARY:

• Upgrade to premium room • Breakfast buffet • Lunch or Dinner

• Access to Infinity Pool, Indoor Pool, Private Beach, Fitness Centre and Lazy River

• Shuttle service to Dubai Marina, Mall of the Emirates and Dubai Mall

MAKE IT SPECIAL & STAY LONGER

Stay 2 or more nights and get an additional 10% discount

*Price excludes Tourism Dirham Fee. *Subject to applicable taxes.

* Up to 2 kids under 12 years go free.

+ 971 (0) 4 455 1100 reservations.dubai@dukeshotel.com

DUKES THE PALM, a Royal Hideaway Hotel

Oceana | Palm Jumeirah | P.O. Box 120015 | Dubai UAE

Tel: +971 (0)4 455 1111 | Email: Info.Dubai@dukeshotel.com

@dukesthepalm| royalhideaway.com


WORLD TRAVELLER X DUBAI MARRIOTT HARBOUR HOTEL & SUITES

STAYCATION

Dubai Marriott Harbour Hotel & Suites

For a longer stay, make yourself at home in a stylish suite overlooking Dubai Marina

THE ROOMS

If you're planning on staying in Dubai

for a while, or simply appreciate the

convenience of having your own kitchen,

the stylish suites at this four-star

property in Dubai Marina is just the

ticket. There are one-, two- and threebedroom

suites available, each featuring

a modern kitchen and a sleek marble

bathroom with an oversized tub. Room

service is available around the clock.

THE FOOD

Jump-start you day with a cup of coffee

and a pastry at Counter Culture Café,

which, like all the apartments, offers

free Wi-Fi so you can stay well connected

to the wider world. For hearty British

fare with a twist, The Croft is the place

to go. On the 52nd floor, Observatory

Bar & Grill is where you should head for

classic dishes and crafted drinks, with

panoramic views of the waterfront.

THE ACTIVITIES

Your fitness regime needn't suffer, as all

guests enjoy access to the fitness centre.

When you want to unwind, head to Saray

Spa, which offers a range of pampering

treatments, such as the signature Saray

Arabic Coffee Awakener, which includes

a body scrub, mask and massage. Get out

and explore Dubai, including Jumeirah

Beach Residence and Dubai Media City

which are just a short stroll away.

To find out more, call +971 4 414 3000 or visit jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com

68 worldtravellermagazine.com


CREATE

SPECIAL

MOMENTS

WITH US.

Standing tall in the heart of

Dubai Marina, featuring

incomparable panoramic views

of the city, combine the best

of all worlds with luxurious

accommodation, three

contemporary dining

destinations and a blissful

caravanserai-inspired, Saray Spa.

DUBAI MARRIOTT HARBOUR HOTEL & SUITES

KING SALMAN BIN ABDULAZIZ AL SAUD STREET

DUBAI MARINA, PO BOX 66662, DUBAI, UAE

T. 971.4.319.4000 | DUBAIMARRIOTTHARBOURHOTEL.COM

Dubai Marriott Harbour Hotel & Suites

@marriottharbour


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worldtravellermagazine.com 71


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72 worldtravellermagazine.com


worldwide resorts, all-inclusive experiences

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Choose perfect destination for your next family vacation or couples getaway. Situated beside national parks, rain forests, beautiful

beaches, fairways of distinction, protected reefs or famous ruins, each all inclusive resort is unique, and each experience unforgettable.

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From AED 525 per person per night

Bali

Indonesia

From AED 550 per person per night

Phuket

Thailand

From AED 575 per person per night

La Pointe aux Canonniers

Mauritius

From AED 760 per person per night

Kani

Maldives

From AED 790 per person per night

What’s

included?

Accomodation

+ + + + + + =

Sports and

instructions

Leisure

Gourmet

All-day

activities Childcare Wifi

dining

beverages

*Additional terms and conditions apply.

Book at dnatatravel.com , call 800 DNATA (36282) or speak to us in-store

Download our app

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THROUGH

THE LENS

Vatnajökull Ice Cave,

Iceland

"Ice caves in Iceland are an

incredible sight to behold.

The intricate patterns and

formations of the cave walls

melt and freeze each year,

creating beautiful designs that

simply take your breath away.

The trek to get to these caves

often requires a long hike across

the glaciers, but it's definitely

worth the effort. On this visit,

our experienced guide drove us

to the edge of Vatnajokull where

we hiked two miles across the

glacier and eventually made it

into the cave entrance to capture

this beautiful display of light

illuminating the glacial walls.

My local friend Hörður here is

posing for scale."

Travel photographer John

Weatherby loves to travel

because: "Exploring the

natural beauty of the world

is incredibly liberating."

@whereisweatherby,

weatherbyphotography.com

EMAIL US YOUR BEST

TRAVEL PHOTOS

in high-res jpeg format, along

with the stories behind them to

habiba@hotmedia.me and you

may end up being featured

on this page

74 worldtravellermagazine.com


Now win!

DIGITAL

BE OUR TRAVEL

COMPANION

Stay up-to-date with all that’s

happening on our social channels

and join in the conversation by

sharing your experiences. Here’s

where you can find us…

@worldtravellerme

Double tap our dreamy

destination shots and tag

us in your images for a chance to

feature on our wall.

@WorldTravellerME

Stay up to date with travel

stories as we post them.

@WTravellerME

Make the most of your

280-character allowance

by sharing your best travel

moments with us.

#WorldTravellerME

A two-night stay at Anantara

The Palm Dubai Resort

Occupying a premium spot on the East Crescent of Palm

Jumeriah, this Thai-style resort is famous for its luxurious overwater

villas. Guests can enjoy dining at Pan Asian restaurant

Mekong, or rejuvenate with a traditional hammam treatment at

the spa. We've teamed up to offer one lucky reader a two-night stay

complete with a spa treatment. To find out more and to enter, visit

worldtravellermagazine.com/win (terms & conditions apply).

TRAVEL INSPO AT YOUR FINGERTIPS

Let our travel news and round-ups, available to read on our website,

inspire your next trip…

1The Knowledge.

Read our handy

how-tos, from

getting to grips with

travel insurance to

helping kids beat jet

lag, and more.

2Staycations.

Take a peek

inside these top

hotels and resorts on

your doorstep, and

then book your next

mini break.

3Insider Guides.

Check out our

in-the-know

travel edits of some

of the most popular

holiday destinations

on our radar.

worldtravellermagazine.com 75


XXXXXXXXXXXXX

Suite dreams

Our monthly finish with a flourish, delving into a

suite that has a character and style all of its own

Corner Suite

Kimpton Fitzroy London Hotel

From its prime location aside the leafy garden squares and storied

streets of Bloomsbury (which house the fabulous British Museum

and gave their name to the famous circle of writers, artists and

intellects, the Bloomsbury Set), to the 19th century landmark building

it occupies, there is much to love about this beautifully designed hotel

– not least its impeccably attired suites. There's no better place to

soak-in all this rich history than from the bedroom-based bathtub of

the Corner Suite and its windows to Russell Square below.

76 worldtravellermagazine.com


AT THE EDGE OF THE

WORLD, WHERE THE SKY

SWIMS IN SEA BLUE

this island sanctuary

welcomes you with breeze

and birdsong, candlelit dinners

and infinite views.

Just daydreams away

from the buzz of the capital,

you can lose yourself

in the peaceful luxury

of your own perfect universe.

YOUR EXTRAORDINARY STORY

Zaya Nurai Island Resort

#InAbuDhabi

visitabudhabi.ae


Indian cuisine


Now Open

From Mumbai to New Delhi, Masala Library by Jiggs Kalra, a pioneering

contemporary Indian restaurant, has made its debut at the world’s tallest 5-star hotel.

Join us and experience a one-of-a-kind signature 12-course menu!

Open daily from 6pm until 11.30pm

JW Marriott Marquis Hotel Dubai

Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay, PO Box 121000, Dubai, UAE

T +971.4.414.3000 | jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com | masalalibrarydxb

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