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World of Wine
CAMERON
VOLUME 2 WINTER 2019
DOUGLAS MS
IT'S A MATCH
Food and wine
pairs to love
CELLAR
SECRETS
Backstage at the vineyard
PLUS finding your
favourite drop
WINE
LABEL
LANGUAGE
EXPLAINED
on
Reds
the Rise
A world first for
New Zealand wine
Villa Maria named in the
Top 3 brands globally
Judged by 130 masters of wines, wine writers wine buyers,
and journalists – this is the first time ever a New Zealand wine
brand has been named Top 3 in the world.
SEDDON VINEYARD, MARLBOROUGH
CONTENTS WINTER
World of Wine
CAMERON DOUGLAS MS
37 Gris-ing the wheels: a bottle
of Pinot Gris is a favourite for
food matching
39 Coq au vin:
Cam picks the best wine for Josh
Emett’s delicious chicken dish
40 A Taste of the new:
A meeting of minds led to the
creation of a new style of fine wine
42 Kiss from a Rosé:
Pink is the new black – no matter
what shade you choose
COVER DESIGNED BY DEBBIE DALE
Cameron enjoying a Hawke's Bay
Stonecroft Chardonnay
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MANAGING DIRECTOR-PUBLISHER
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EDITOR
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SALES DIRECTOR
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ph: 0212 867 600
7 About the Master
Cameron Douglas is – quite literally
– the Master of Wine.
8 Roaming the regions
How can each region of New
Zealand produce such a diverse
array of wine?
10 History in the making:
A couple’s love of history – and
of Pinot Noir led to a dramatic
revelation in Marlborough
13 Cellar secrets:
Where to find our best winery
experiences
17 Farm fresh:
Slow cooked lamb oyster shoulder
makes a perfect winter match for
this Pinot Noir
18 Wine princess gets her crown:
The woman behind the Crown
Range story
21 What’s in a white?
You might know our nation’s top
three whites – what’s the fourth?
22 Focus on Chardonnay
30 Timeless Tohu Whenua:
It’s all about balance for this special
Māori vineyard
32 A Sauvignon for all seasons
This Kiwi favourite is breaking
new ground
45 Organically speaking:
The rise of natural growing
techniques is creating some
innovative flavours
46 Label language unpicked:
Taking time to read a wine label –
and those bottle stickers – can be
very revealing
48 Shine bright like a sparkle:
New Zealand’s top sparkling wines
52 Aromatically speaking:
Unfolding the defining flavours of
an aromatic wine
55 The romance of reds:
New Zealand’s iconic red wine
industry is flourishing
57 Perfectly Pinot:
Our love story with Pinot Noir
is intensifying
60 Mulled wine:
Cam’s top wine picks for this
delicious winter tipple
64 Beautiful blends:
Look to New Zealand reds for
some gorgeous style innovation
69 Sweet stuff:
Don’t just keep these fine flavours
for dessert
70 Cam’s Back Page:
Which wine would you hide behind
the velvet curtain?
4 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019
Sofia & Jackson’s wedding, Melbourne
Marlborough Wine and Food Festival
2019 - To Do
Running with the bulls
Orangutans in Borneo
Half Marathon, Queenstown
Proposal to all staff - 4 day week?
Sunday 1pm
Pick up bottle of Ara!
YOUR JOURNEY.
Cameron Douglas, MS:
A WORD
FROM
THE
MASTER
Welcome to the second
edition of World of Wine
– we didn’t know if there
would be a second but it
seems you fine people are keen to know
more. Truth is, living in NZ means you’re
living in your own exciting world of wine
– one that is evolving fast and fabulously.
I would simply like to offer some guidance
and insights on what to drink and how to
get the most out of your vinous promiscuity
and wine budget – seems most of what our
great little country produces passes over
my tasting table so I am likely able to offer
an informed opinion.
Before we start however, I’d like to
explain what a Sommelier is and what
they do. It’s no longer a guy in a suit
who instructs you on the appropriate
tipple (though I do have a wardrobe of
exceptionally fine suits).
A Sommelier is a trained and
knowledgeable professional who is able to
manage all aspects of beverage service. By
this I mean knowing about anything potable
- from water to ingredients for cocktails,
from beer to port, from sake to spirits;
red, white, pink, sparkling, orange, natural,
organic or bio-dynamic wine selections.
A Sommelier is your adviser on what to
buy, what and how to cellar, when to drink
it, and recommendations for food and wine
matching. Sommeliers who wear a badge
of office may also be the gatekeepers for
wine lists in restaurants and hotels, or
manage purchasing budgets for collectors.
Most importantly though, a Sommelier
is a professional whose aim is to help you
select the right beverage specifically for you.
The story doesn’t end here - in fact it’s
just beginning. A Sommelier’s role includes
helping you discover wines that make you
smile, wines that make you want a second
glass, wines that make you want to tell the
story of when…
As I travel around the world, it's become
obvious the younger generation are
becoming more involved in what and how
they drink, and their palates are definitely
becoming more discerning. New Zealand’s
wine industry is relatively young itself – so
we’re well placed to be at the forefront
of this trend. We're even making movies
about wine now; A Seat At The Table, a
movie made by my mates Dave Nash and
Simon Mark-Brown in which I make a
few appearances, was released at this year's
New Zealand International Film Festival.
It's already been accepted for the Vancouver
Festival and Netflix! The USA movie Somm
(about the journey to become a Master
Sommelier) has had such an explosion of
interest it is now a TV series.
My world is a World of Wine – and it’s
a great journey – so turn the page and
join me.
Cameron Douglas, MS
6 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019
EDITORIAL
All About
Cameron
Master Sommelier
While your chances
of encountering
a Sommelier during
a good dining
experience are quite high, you’d
be hard pressed to find yourself
being advised on wine by a Master
Sommelier. That’s because there are
around only 257 individuals in the
world who have earned the title of
Master Sommelier from the Court
of Master Sommeliers since its
inception in 1969. New Zealand is
home to just one of these – Cameron
Douglas MS.
A Sommelier is a wine and
beverage professional. If you’re after
a specific taste, flavour or a good
wine match that’s been created for
the food you’re about to tuck into,
your Sommelier is the person to
talk to. He or she can tell you what
wines and beverages are available,
any specialised varieties within the
restaurant, and perhaps even a wine
that isn’t listed on the menu.
A Master Sommelier, however,
is a whole other barrel of wine.
An MS is required to be beyond
knowledgeable about every beverage
- from wine, sake, spirits, cocktails,
fortifieds, beers through to coffee
and water. Commonly regarded as
the most difficult exam in the world,
the title of Master Sommelier is
considered to be the highest and
most prestigious title available to
professional Sommeliers in the world.
It is only bestowed on the very few
people who first pass (generally over
a number of years) through four
rigorous levels, then face a series of
intense exams - theory, service and
tasting, from the Court of Master
Sommeliers. And it isn’t open to
anyone; these exams are by invitation
only. Very few people pass these
exams first time around; Cameron
persevered through huge
obstacles, and when he
passed it was with the
top marks in that year.
As a Master
Sommelier, Cameron
can, in moments,
identify country, region,
topography, winemaking
techniques, climate and
vineyards, as well as
suitable characteristics
for pairing, from a single
taste. His wine and
beverage knowledge
enriches his students
at AUT University
where he is a Senior
Lecturer in charge of the Wine and
Beverage programme, and takes
him around the world, where he
regularly teaches, judges, presents
at conferences, and has speaking
engagements throughout North
America, and in London, Australia,
South East Asia, China – he is about
to add Italy to his list. He is also
a regular expert speaker on six star
Crystal Cruises.
He selects wine for and is part of
the NZ Wine Navigator team – an
online supplier of NZ wine in the
USA. He lives his life around his
enthusiasm for all things beverage
– teaching, travelling, tasting and
talking. He judges and presents
wine regularly in the USA, the UK,
Australia and Asia.
Cameron writes wine lists for top
restaurants around New Zealand,
including Hiakai, Huami at SkyCity
Auckland, The Lodge Bar in
Queenstown, and continues to advise
at renowned New York Michelinstarred
restaurant The Musket Room,
run by Kiwi Matt Lambert. W
What is the points system?
The 100-point wine scoring system is used worldwide as a way for wine experts
to explain and quantify their thoughts on a wine. The system is based on the
American high school marking system, so the scale starts at 50 (rather than 0),
and can be broken down as follows:
95–100 Classic: a great wine
90–94 Outstanding: a wine of superior character and style
85–89 Very good: a wine with special qualities
80–84 Good: a solid, well-made wine
75–79 Mediocre: a drinkable wine that may have minor flaws
50–74 Not recommended
For more information on Cameron, visit https://www.camdouglasms.com/
WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 7
Walking in a
Wine Wonderland
FROM NORTHLAND TO CENTRAL OTAGO, NEW ZEALAND WINE REGIONS HAVE
A REPUTATION FOR EXCELLENCE. OUR LANDSCAPES PROVIDE A DIVERSE RANGE OF
SOILS AND GROWING CONDITIONS, REVEALING SOME UNIQUE FLAVOUR SIGNATURES
New Zealand has a twohundred-year
history
in wine which began
in 1819 in Kerikeri,
Bay of Islands where the first vines
were planted by missionary Samuel
Marsden. It’s a small region, but
Northland has some fine wine
producers, including The Landing
and Karikari Estate.
Stretching from Matakana to
Clevedon and across the water to
Waiheke, the Auckland region is
key for wine production. The soil/
landscape type is volcanic, with a
heavy clay influence. The region
supports many varieties - from Pinot
Gris at Brick Bay Wines, too Air
New Zealand Fine Wines of New
Zealand varieties Kumeu River
Chardonnay and Waiheke Islandbased
Stonyridge red blends, and
Cabernet Franc from Puriri Hills
Estate. Villa Maria, one of New
Zealand's premier producers (and
also an Air NZ Fine Wine), has a
renowned vineyard and winemaking
facility at Ihumatao, Mangere.
The Waikato and Bay of Plenty
form a single wine region. Once
well known for its aromatic wine
production, this is now home to only
two significant estates, Ohinemuri
and Vilagrad Winery.
Gisborne is renowned for being
geographically tricky - it’s also
well known for its Chardonnay,
Viognier, and Sparkling Wine
production. It’s home to James
and Annie Millton – pioneers of
biodynamics and a benchmark in
the practice. Undulating hillsides
and clay and silty loam soils create
primarily fuller-bodied whites,
though some Syrah and Merlots
are notable. A few favourites for me
include Odyssey Wines Chardonnay,
Huntaway Gewürztraminer, Spade
Oak Albariño, Coopers Creek
Chardonnay, Matawhero Chardonnay
and Millton Vineyards Syrah. River
Sun Nurseries has a significant
operation, supplying the majority
of grape plant material for New
Zealand’s wine sector.
The stunning Hawke’s Bay with
its free-draining riverstone soil base
produces some great wines, with 27
different soil types and one of NZ’s
warmest growing seasons, creating
pockets of diversity and potential.
So many notable producers come
from here - Trinity Hill, Te Mata
and Pask Estates with their Syrah
stories; Cabernet-led blends and
Chardonnay from Villa Maria, Craggy
Range, Sacred Hill, Esk Valley and Te
Awa Estates. Relatively new to the
Bay is Elephant Hill – the wines are
high quality, especially in their single
vineyard series – and the restaurant
offers a sophisticated dining
experience. Not so new, yet equally
fantastic, is Clearview Estate whose
Reserve Chardonnay is outstanding.
Part of Wellington province and
the southernmost wine region of
the North Island is the Wairarapa,
where the sub-regions of Gladstone,
Masterton, and Martinborough, are
located. The region is rich in history
– I recently tasted a wine from 1903
grown and made there – thought to
be Pinot Noir. The clay loams, gravels
and limestones mean it is notably
home to fine Pinot Noir, Syrah and
Riesling. Many great wine producers
create some of our best known
brands there: no story of the region
is complete without mentioning
Ata Rangi, Palliser Estate, Dry
River, Escarpment, Martinborough
and Schubert wines. A few of
8 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019
WINES BY REGION
the new(ish) kids on the block
making some delicious wines are:
Haythornthwaite (Gewürztraminer);
Luna Estate, Big Sky, The Elder,
Brodie, Julicher and Urlar (all
producing excellent Pinots Noir).
The view from Prophet's Rock, Central Otago.
Photo credit Paul Pujol
SOUTH ISLAND
At the top of the South Island,
Nelson is a small yet significant
contributor to our wine story. It has
long sunshine hours and the western
Moutere Hills provide shelter, though
autumn rains can be challenging.
The soils vary from riverbed to more
clay-based in the hills. Neudorf
wines consistently impress with their
complexity and true expression of
site. Their flagship Chardonnays and
Pinots Noir are investment wines,
and fans of more aromatic styles
should also try their Albariño and
Riesling. Other regional producers of
note include Blackenbrook (for their
Gewürztraminer); Aronui, Brightwater,
Renato, Richmond Plains and Rimu
Grove – all producing, among other
varieties, great Pinot Noir.
Marlborough is home to our most
significant plantings of Sauvignon
Blanc, still the most important
variety for NZ. It isn’t difficult to
find high quality examples; currently
Churton, Mahi, Clos Marguerite,
Dog Point, Greywacke and Astrolabe
are among my favourite Sauvignon
Blanc producers.
Marlborough Methode
Traditionnelle sparkling wine is
outstanding – many examples
rivalling its northern hemisphere
counterparts. It is individual, and yet
a true reflection of place, time and
potential – (see page 48 for more on
this delightful variety).
No 1 Family Estate, with their
family roots in Champagne, are
leaders in a growing list of bottlefermented
sparkling wine producers.
Cloudy Bay (Rosé), Huia (Blanc
de Blancs) and Nautilus are also
noteworthy producers – all dedicated
specialists with a focus on traditional
blends and individual expression.
Lawson’s Dry Hills, Foxes Island,
Clos Marguerite, and Two Rivers
are among my favourites in a long
(and growing) list of fine Pinot
Noir producers.
Wines to add to your 'must-try'
list from Marlborough must include:
Te Whare Ra and Fromm Syrah,
Hans Herzog Spirit of Marlborough
(Bordeaux Blend), Air NZ Fine
Wine Framingham Noble Riesling
and Johanneshof Gewürztraminer,
pretty much anything from Tohu, and
Mahi Chardonnay.
Canterbury land has much to
offer, with soils of limestone, gravels
and clays and a semi-continental
climate producing some outstanding
and delicious wines. Anything
from Pegasus Bay, Pinots Noir and
Chardonnay from Pyramid Valley,
South Island terroir differs dramatically
from its Northern counterpart.
Bell Hill, Tongue in Groove, and
Greystone wines should be on your
bucket list. Bellbird Spring and
Waipara Hills are also producing
great examples.
With just a handful of producers
in the Waitaki Valley region (North
Otago) the rugged countryside
hides some special vineyard sites and
delicious wines – the landscape is
challenging and dramatic, and frost
is a frequent threat. Pinots Noir
from Ostler, Valli and Q wines are
among the best in New Zealand. The
perseverance in adverse conditions of
the owners pays great dividends.
Central Otago is arguably New
Zealand’s most dramatic and exciting
wine region. With many producers of
fine Pinots Noir, Riesling, Sparkling
wines and Chardonnay, there is a
lot to explore in this alpine region.
Felton Road, Akarua, Wooing
Tree, Rippon, Mount Difficulty,
Quartz Reef, Prophets Rock,
Peregrine, Rockburn, Gibbston
Valley and Misha’s Vineyard are all
leader producers.
Some of the excellent estates you
may be less familiar with include:
Akitu, Aurum, Bald Hills, Burn
Cottage, Ceres, Domain Road,
Grasshopper Rock, Hawkdun Rise,
Lamont, Ruru, Perseverance Estate,
Mondillo, Mount Edward, Nevis
Bluff, Judge Rock and Two Paddocks.
Throughout the NZ wine regions,
the standards are increasingly high
and it is difficult to create a definitive
list of the best. I am extremely
fortunate that most of the producers
provide me with wines to review. I’m
seldom disappointed. W
WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 9
Brothers in
Auntsfield
A TASTE FOR THE UNUSUAL LED TO THE DISCOVERY OF A
FAMILY HEIRLOOM IN MARLBOROUGH
The tale of how Auntsfield
came to be resembles
a movie script. It’s the
story of a historical
secret, that only reveals itself when
the right people discover it, leading
to the unearthing of an unlikely
surprise, which turns out to be a
priceless treasure.
Graeme and Linda Cowley knew
nothing about wine – other than
how to thoroughly enjoy it - when
they decided a life change was in
order in the late 1990s. Graeme had
had a career in the film industry for
30 years, working on several iconic
Kiwi movies including Goodbye
Pork Pie and Smash Palace, but
felt the time was right to move on.
“Vineyard development and wine
production is much like filmmaking;
they are both vertically integrated,
from the technical side through to
the running of the project, so there
were similarities – look how many
film professionals buy wineries!” says
Graeme. “Going into wine was an
attractive change, but not something
I knew much about, but we were
young enough and confident enough
to believe we could learn anything.”
The pair set about searching
for somewhere unique; any old
vineyard wouldn’t do. “It had to
be somewhere special, something
that felt magic,” explains Graeme,
who had decided on pinot noir.
After several fruitless trips to winerich
areas like Central Otago and
Martinborough, an old film industry
colleague suggested they look at a
hillside in Marlborough. Different
to anything else they had seen, the
site had steep hills, no accessible
water, wasn’t for sale by the current
owner, and had no grapes growing
on it. “Mum and Dad basically took
a punt,” says Ben Cowley, Graeme
and Linda’s son, who works as the
viticulturalist and managing director
at Auntsfield alongside his brother
Luc, Auntsfield’s winemaker. “The
real estate agents were getting very
frustrated; they’d shown them so
many places that were perfect for
growing grapes, and now they
wanted to buy somewhere based on
the ‘feel’.”
After much negotiation, the
Cowleys secured the land; now it
was time to see if they could actually
grow vines. “My colleague had
spent a lot of time studying the local
environment, and he thought it was
doable, but no-one knew how to
plant on the hills,” says Graeme. “We
dug big holes in a grid pattern across
the site, which I jumped down and
photographed. We discovered there
was a variety of soils, and the hills
affected where the wind and the
heat was; it was perfect. Someone
had mentioned to me they thought
the grapes would grow fine because
they had a vague recollection of
something being there in the old
days, but with no other planted vines
visible from the highest point of the
hill looking north, it was a gamble.”
With no water on the property,
finding it was crucial to the
project. A local old-timer proved
indispensable when he suggested
they’d have some success on the
top north-western section of the
property. Hillside planting wasn’t
the norm at the time, so they
looked outside the region, mostly at
Waiheke Island, to learn about layout,
irrigation systems and planting.
“It was a massive risk, but my
parents loved the challenge – they
Ben Cowley (left) is Auntsfield's viticulturist;
brother Luc is the winemaker
have always made decisions based
on passion and intuition rather than
business. They go with what brings
them excitement, and they loved the
place,” says Ben. Thus began what
became some pioneering industry
changes, both for Auntsfield and for
Marlborough. Blocks couldn’t be laid
out in straight lines, and had to take
into account the topography and soil
types. The Auntsfield estate lent itself
beautifully to low-crop, structured
pinots noir and chardonnays
with depth, elegance and plenty
of minerality.
But Graeme had never forgotten
about the possibility of previous
plantings. A keen researcher, he
discovered there had indeed been
grapes here before. A 22-year-old
10 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019
BEHIND CLOSED DOORS
David Herd had arrived in Nelson
from Dundee, Scotland in 1852 with
his wife and child, on Ticonderoga,
the first of the multi-deck
immigrant ships. David got a job on
Meadowbank, a huge cattle station,
but on retiring, bought the land on
which he had dreamed of making
wine. He planted his first grapes in
1873 on the Auntsfield Estate and
made wine until his death in 1905.
His son-in-law continued the legacy
until 1931.
Fascinated, Graeme searched for
a descendant of David Herd. “One
man called John Gleeson was in his
80s and remembered it from his
childhood. He showed me around;
his mother had told him stories of
living here as a young girl, being
made to help by trampling the grapes
with her sister. She had hated it,” says
Graeme. “He described how it used
to look, and showed me where the
vines had been.” Hidden away on the
vineyard was Herd’s original wine
cellar, which has now been restored,
and John’s mother, over 100 years
old, was brought to see it, and given
some of the first wine the Cowleys
had made.
Discovering they were on historic
ground was a benchmark moment
for the Cowleys. Graeme spent
years researching the history of the
land, the family and the wine. “We
discovered David had definitely
grown muscat, although various
names were used for it back in
those days,” says Graeme. Through
numbering systems, Graeme and
Linda were able to track down a few
of the mother vines planted by Herd.
After treatment and propagation,
they were planted – by David Herd’s
great-grandson – in the restored
vineyard in 2004. In 2005, Auntsfield
produced a special Pinot Noir named
Heritage, to commemorate 100 years
since David’s death. In each bottle of
Heritage wine was a little of the one
remaining bottle of wine from the
original Auntsfield Estate.
Today, the Cowley family
produces an equal amount of
pinot noir and sauvignon blanc at
Auntsfield, plus a little chardonnay.
“In my opinion, Marlborough is
not only the greatest region in the
world to grow Sauvignon Blanc,
but has the potential to do so with
Pinot Noir as well," says Ben. “There
are some unique challenges on this
site – poor soil means little natural
nutrition, which drives a particular
wine style, but we let the vines
dictate what we do. We can’t produce
large commercial quantities, but
that suits our philosophy perfectly.”
The family have also planted
wetlands and natives as part of the
restoration project, and to maintain a
sustainable environment.
“Having such a rich history is
wonderful, and I think everyone on
the vineyard feels that sense of place,”
says Graeme. “The care that goes into
the vine is beyond anyone here now
– it’s in the land itself.” W
WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 11
A brand new look for
an old favourite!
Old Coach Road is the historic route used in the 1850s for
the first mail run through the Moutere Hills in Nelson, near
to where the Seifried winemaking story begins.
Our parents, Hermann & Agnes planted their first vineyard in
1973, pioneering modern winemaking in the South Island of
New Zealand. Today we continue their dream, as the second
generation of fully committed sustainable winegrowers.
WWW.SEIFRIED.CO.NZ
@SEIFRIEDESTATE
Top
Cellar Doors
WHEREVER YOU'RE TRAVELLING IN NEW ZEALAND, THERE'S A WINERY WORTH A VISIT.
CAMERON'S TAKEN SOME OF THE LEGWORK OUT OF THE RESEARCH SO YOU KNOW WHERE TO STOP
TE WHARE RA, 56 Anglesea Street,
Renwick, Marlborough
Stop by at the oldest small winery in
Marlborough and you'll feel instantly
welcomed by owners & winemakers
Anna and Jason Flowerday, their two (!)
sets of twin daughters, and a collection
of happy-go-lucky-dogs and cows.
I really enjoy visiting this vineyard
and I love the wines. There’s an instant
connection between the land, the
people and the smell and taste in the
wine. It's truly magic. All you need do
is inhale the sweet air in the vineyard
and you'll know what harmony is
all about. This is a small, certifiedorganic
vineyard originally planted
in 1979, and with just 11 hectares of
vineyard is home to the oldest vines in
KUMEU RIVER WINES, 550 Highway
16, Kumeu, Auckland
Kumeu River, its vineyards, winery and
tasting room are all adjacent to each
in Auckland’s North West community
Marlborough. The Flowerday’s mantra
is pretty cool, and smart: "We make our
living from the soil, so the soil must be
our living". My favourite wines from
TWR collection are the Toru white
blend and Syrah.
Ph + 64 3 572 8581
www.twrwines.co.nz
of Kumeu. A 30-minute
drive from downtown, it is
owned and operated by the
Brajkovich family - a 'Dally'
[Dalmatian] family who has
been part of the fabric of
New Zealand wine since
1944, when their first small
vineyard was established.
I love this place; I always
experience some of the best
old-fashioned hospitality,
and some astounding wines
too. Their Chardonnays.
The cellar door is open
for tasting and sales Mon-Fri 9am –
4.30 pm, Sat 11am -4.30 pm and closed
on Sundays.
ph +64 (0)9 412 8415
www.kumeuriver.co.nz
PEGASUS BAY: Stockgrove Road,
Waipara, RD2 Amberley 7482,
North Canterbury
Pegasus Bay winery is owned and
operated by the Donaldson family,
pioneers of the Canterbury wine
region. Take a stroll around the
winery’s breathtaking gardens and
wetlands even before you enter the
tasting room and restaurant; the air
smells sweet and intoxicating. The
cellar door experience is fantastic,
with all of the estate grown wines
available for tasting. The wines are
delicious and dare I say it - unique.
My favourite wines are the Bel
Canto Riesling and Prima Donna
Pinot Noir. Do stay for lunch as
well, the restaurant uses fresh, local
and seasonal produce, an inspiring
menu that changes regularly.
Telephone: 03 314 6869
info@pegasusbay.com;
restaurant@pegasusbay.com
WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 13
TOP WINE DESTINATIONS
VILLA MARIA
CELLAR DOOR
MANGERE, 118
Montgomerie Rd,
Mangere, Auckland 2022
Just minutes from the
Auckland Airport, the Villa Maria Ihumatao Vineyard
sits on the edge of the Manukau Harbour within a
shallow, sheltered volcanic crater. This feature alone
makes this a unique vineyard site. However, it’s only
one of the reasons that Villa Maria was named the third
most-admired wine brand in the world in March 2019.
As you enter this place you feel a sense of calm and
relaxation; a wonderful connection to the past and
present is the Ihumatao. The cellar door is a key feature
here; visitors can sample Villa Maria’s award-winning
wines, enjoy a glass of wine in the Vineyard Café
overlooking the vines or meander around the vineyard
or lake. This is a popular spot for both international
visitors and locals, so everyone can expect to be well
looked after. There are many wines to sample here with
of my favourites: Ihumatao Organic Verdelho and The
Attorney Organic Pinot Noir (Marlborough).
Open 7 days – Mon to Fri 9am - 6pm;
Weekends 9am - 4pm. Tel: 09 255 0666
www.villamariawines.com/winery/aucklandcellar-door/
THE URBAN WINERY,
3 Ossian Street, Ahuriri,
Napier, Hawke’s Bay
The Urban Winery in
Ahuriri, Napier, is home
to Tony Bish Wines and a
very ‘Kiwi’ cellar door & wine bar experience. Through
the looking glass wall of this art deco industrial-style
building, you can’t help but notice their iconic concrete
eggs. The only French oak egg barrel in the southern
hemisphere is here as well, along with beautifully laid
out barriques.
Tony is a Chardonnay specialist and from the Fat
& Sassy to the Skeetfield (my favourite), these wines
capture Hawke’s Bay and Tony’s unique style. You might
also notice only vinyl records being played, in fact you
can BYO your favourite LP for a spin. Wine tastings,
wine and craft beer by the glass or bottle, live music
events, retail sales and tasty platters.
Opening hours: Sun - Weds, 12pm - 6pm
Thurs to Sat: 12pm - late
Phone: 06 650 3353. Email:
events@theurbanwinery.co.nz
www.theurbanwinery.co.nz
www.tonybishwines.co.nz
FB:@theurbanwineryahuriri
VILLA MARIA
CELLAR DOOR
HAWKE'S BAY, 2375
State Highway 50,
Flaxmere, Roys Hill 4175,
New Zealand
The Te Awa Estate Winery, Restaurant and Cellar
Door is spectacular. Located along State Highway 50
in Flaxmere (at the foot of Roy’s Hill) the grounds and
outdoor areas evokes memories of youth - climbing
trees and rolling in the grass.
The cellar door & restaurant are both rustic and
modern. Chef Stephen Tindall creates delicious food
from an outdoor picnic to an a la carte lunch indoors.
With only lunch on offer I recommend you book. The
remaining time is set aside for events. Wines for tasting
include Te Awa Estates, Esk Valley, Left Field, Kidnapper
Cliffs and Vidal Estate – so more than a few to taste.
My must-try wines include their Te Awa Single Estate
Syrah, Vidal Estate Soler Chardonnay and Esk Valley The
Terraces Red Blend.
Open 7 Days.
www.villamariawines.com/vineyards/Hawke'sbay/
Tel: +64 6879 7602
NEUDORF
VINEYARDS 138
Neudorf Road, RD2,
Upper Moutere,
Nelson
Located on the home
vineyard, Neudorf’s
Todd Stevens (winemaker) and Rosie
Finn (Tim and Jude's daughter)
cellar door over looks their original plantings of Moutere
Chardonnay, some of the oldest chardonnay vines in the
South Island. Open since the early 80s, owners Tim & Judy
and the Neudorf team have created a peaceful environment
to come and taste their wines. Enjoy the action amongst
the vines on the other side of the fence, be it the 400 sheep
on vineyard grass patrol, or the crew working away.
Judy has crafted a baby deli filled with local cheeses to
match the wines which you can enjoy in the garden during
summer months. Their staff are warm and knowledgeable,
whether you want to sit in the garden with a glass of
Chardonnay or taste the portfolio at the bar. Neudorf
is worth the 40 minute drive north of Nelson city. I
recommend you taste all the wines, but my picks are the
Moutere Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Albariño.
Open 7 days from October 2019.
Visit www.neudorf.co.nz for more information
+64 3 543 2643
14 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019
TOP WINE DESTINATIONS
ELEPHANT HILL,
86 Clifton Road,
Te Awanga, Hawke’s Bay
Founded and owned
by the Weiss family,
Elephant Hill is a
stunning and innovative
winery estate and restaurant located on the Te Awanga
coastline in Hawke’s Bay. Every time I arrive at this
place my jaw drops - Wow! From the architecture
to the reception, wine tasting and dining, this place
is amazing. The Pacific Ocean and Cape Kidnappers
are all within view, the smell of the ocean breeze is
energising and welcoming. Elephant Hill crafts small
volumes of world-class wines from three Hawke’s Bay
sites. Their winemaking ethos is to produce the best
possible wines that express their vineyard, variety and
vintage. My favourite wines are the Single Vineyard
Chardonnay and Syrah, though all Elephant Hill wines
are rather delicious!
Cellar Door is open 7 days from 11am.
A range of tasting experiences are available,
email cellardoor@elephanthill.co.nz for private
tasting opportunities.
Cellar Door (06) 872 6073
elephanthill.co.nz
MISHA’S VINEYARD
TASTING ROOM
182 State Highway 8B,
Cromwell 9310 (Freeway
Orchard complex)
Located close to the
town of Cromwell, the Misha’s Vineyard Tasting
Room is a simple yet elegant space providing a relaxed
interactive tasting experience. From the large-scale
photographic murals showcasing the vineyard a few kms
away, to the first-class hospitality, to the wines and tasty
food platters, Misha’s is among the best in New Zealand.
I recommend the guided wine wine tasting, or tailor
your own experience, from the selection available. All
wines produced are grown on a stunning 57-hectare
estate on the edge of Lake Dunstan at Bendigo. The
range of single-vineyard Pinot Noir and aromatic white
wines comprises Pinot Gris, Riesling, Pinot Rosé,
Sauvignon Blanc and Gewürztraminer including a late
harvest dessert wine. Two of my favourite wines are the
Limelight Riesling and High Note Pinot Noir.
Hours: 10am – 4pm daily.
Contact: +64 3 4454456 or email:
tastingroom@mishasvineyard.com
www.mishasvineyard.com
Open 10am – 4pm daily.
BRICK BAY, 17 Arabella
Lane, Snells Beach,
Auckland 0920
On the east coast near
Matakana is Brick
Bay. Cantilevered over
a shimmering lake, an architectural ‘Glass House’
encompasses a tasting room, tasting room and restaurant.
It is also the gateway to the Brick Bay Sculpture Trail.
I’ve walked this trail many times – it really is amazing!
From the transparency of the Glass House, you
can view the vineyard witnessing the individual care
that underpins a small artisan vineyard. A sustainably
accredited 4.5 hectare vineyard produces all the fruit for
very limited release wines including
With Pinot Gris, Rose [need accent on this pls],
Chardonnay and Bordeaux blends, Brick Bay offers
relaxed all-day dining showcasing farm to table and
seasonal produce. I have been a fan of these wines since
the beginning with my favourites the Pinot Gris and
Pharos red blend.
Open 10am-5pm daily.
Phone 09 425 4690 Visit www.brickbay.co.nz for
information and bookings
AKARUA WINES
& KITCHEN BY
ARTISAN, 265
Arrowtown - Lake Hayes
Road, Arrowtown 9371
Akarua Wines and
Kitchen by Artisan is located 15 minutes from
Queenstown on Arrowtown-Lake Hayes Rd, in the
historic Walnut Cottage. On site is a cellar door, retail
and an indoor/outdoor dining setting, with a delightful
garden, sculptures, mature trees; a good old-fashioned
country feel. I love visiting Akarua for its quaint,
charming atmosphere, and the way it blends retail, food
and beverage with hospitality seamlessly.
The winery itself is located in Bannockburn. All
Akarua wines are 100% estate grown across six vineyard
sites spanning two subregions, Bannockburn and Pisa.
Akarua is now second-generation family owned,
established by the Skeggs family in 1996. I particularly
like the sparkling wine range and Siren Pinot Noir.
Open 7 days 11am - 5pm
www.akarua.com
P: +64 (03) 445 0897
E: info@akarua.com
WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 15
INTRODUCING CAVALIER, GREEN GINGER WINE.
BREWED USING PREMIUM MARLBOROUGH GRAPES
AND ZESTY NATURAL GINGER.
Cavalier Green Ginger Wine is forging a new
path, making wine of a different kind. The
Cavaliers of today are those of us compelled to
go against the grain. We challenge conventions
not because we’ve got beef, but because we
can.
#Cavaliergreenginger www.allanscott.com
WHISKY MAC
45ml Cavalier Green Wine
45ml Whisk(e)y
Pour ingredients into a short glass.
Fill with ice. Stir to taste.
WINE AND FOOD
Perfect with
Pinot
THIS BEAUTIFUL WINTER DISH FROM
AKARUA’S EXECUTIVE CHEF JOHN PICKENS
USES ALPINE LAMB FROM LOCAL HILLSIDES
SLOW COOKED LAMB
OYSTER SHOULDER
Ingredients
→ 1 lamb oyster shoulder - we use
Silere Merino - approx 1.1kg
→ 10 garlic cloves
→ 150ml canola oil
→ 2 sprigs of rosemary
→ 1 onion, chopped
→ 1 piece of celery, chopped
→ 1 carrot, chopped
→ 1 bottle of Akarua Rua
Pinot Noir
Method
First, confit the garlic. In a small
pot, add garlic cloves and just
enough oil to cover them. Place
on the stove top on its lowest
heat and let it slowly confit,
without boiling, for about 25
minutes. They should be soft
enough to squash with the back
of a spoon.
Allow the garlic to cool slightly.
Rip off the leaves and add them
to the garlic and oil, using a bar
blender or hand blender, blitz
for a minute or two until the
rosemary is fine and you have
a nice paste. Rub this over the
lamb shoulder and ideally leave
overnight to marinate.
Pre heat your oven 130˚C.
Take an oven proof dish with high
sides that just fits the lamb, add
the chopped veges and then
lamb on top and the bottle of
wine, if necessary top up with
water until just covered. Place a
sheet of baking paper over the
lamb, followed by aluminium foil
wrapped tightly around the edges.
Cam’s Wine Match
This is a dish of soft and subtle sweetness, delicacy and refinement
as well as tenderness and familiarity. It requires a wine with the
same attributes, but also a wine with a core of fruit, power of fine
tannins and youthful acidity to contrast the lamb. The Akarua Pinot
Noir does this with aplomb. A distinctive signature of vineyard and
Otago origins with stony schist minerality, dried herb, a whisper of thyme, and with
great fruit and structure this wine has personality and Pinosity.
Slow cook in the oven for 4-5
hours. To test the lamb is done,
wiggle the bone. It should
separate from the lamb.
In our restaurant we serve it with
caramelised onions and figs,
Akarua Pinot Noir jus and black
garlic salt.
WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 17
Songbird
FINDING YOUR PASSION TAKES A LITTLE LUCK, AND LOTS OF
HARD WORK. CAMERON CAUGHT UP WITH JING SONG, ONE
OF NEW ZEALAND’S MOST RESPECTED FEMALE WINE PRODUCERS,
TO FIND OUT MORE.
Jing Song doesn’t fit the
image of your average
wine producer. A former
accountant with an
extraordinary talent for
artistry and entrepreneurship, Jing
is an engaging blend of modern
businesswoman and colourful theatre.
Married and mother to a son, with a
second baby due later this year, Jing
is a successful wine entrepreneur.
Her latest project is an exclusive
wine club, the Crown Range Cellar
Lounge, in Parnell, Auckland, which
opened on May 17, 2019.
I first encountered Jing Song and
the Crown Range Cellar brand in
2016, when some China Girl Pinot
Noir samples arrived at my office for
review. I was intrigued; Grant Taylor,
one of New Zealand’s premier Pinot
Noir winemakers, had crafted the
wine specifically for Crown Range
Cellar; and the China Girl brand
looked interesting.
Jing first arrived in New Zealand
as a teenager from Chong Qing City,
China, to study at a Christchurch
private school. Jing took two degrees:
Accounting and Theatre Studies. Her
experience of wine and alcohol were
limited to social events. “All I knew
was cask wine back then,” smiles
Jing. “I had no idea that wine would
become my passion.”
With her newly-minted skills
– she was an A-grade scholarship
recipient - Jing landed a role in
Dunedin with financial giants
KPMG. It didn’t take long, however,
before Jing missed the excitement of
the theatre and the arts. “I did enjoy
accountancy but the job became very
routine. It suppressed my creativity,”
she explains.
With Jing’s parents having moved
from China to Central Otago, she
regularly drove from Dunedin, where
she was a student, to Queenstown
to visit them. “The journey exposed
me to the amazing landscapes and
vineyards of the region.”
On every trip, Jing would drive
by local winemaking facility VinPro.
“One day, about ten years ago, I
wanted to know more about this
place I’d driven past so often,”
explains Jing. She introduced
herself, and began asking questions
– just as Grant Taylor, one of New
Zealand’s premier Pinot Noir makers,
happened to make an appearance.
“It was pure chance that he walked
by.” That meeting signalled the
beginning of a long friendship, and a
unique partnership.
“Grant invited me into his
world of winemaking, which was
so different from the daily grind of
accounting. It fascinated me,” says
Jing, who discovered that Grant lived
directly opposite her mother.
She immersed herself in learning
about wine, Valli, winemaking and
vineyards, and worked a harvest
in order to experience the art of
boutique winemaking. Grant’s love
for wine, its history in Otago and the
land’s enormous potential worked its
magic on Jing, and in 2010, the pair
formed a wine trading enterprise.
“When I first met Grant I was
a typical poverty-stricken student
in Dunedin, but he saw something
in me,” says Jing. “He believed in
me from the beginning; he had
A woman in a
wine world
As a woman in what is historically
a male world, Jing wants to share
her knowledge and success
with other women. “It’s vital that
women believe in themselves,
their abilities and their potential,”
she says. “My advice to women
is to surround yourself with men
and women who recognise your
personal strengths. Do this,
focus on your goal, and you
will succeed.”
confidence and faith in my talent and
my palate. He invited me to blind
tastings, and made me explain what
I could taste, what I could smell. I
was a neighbourhood girl with no
knowledge, but lots of hidden talent.
He taught me a lot about wine, and
gave me the confidence I needed to
create a career.”
Jing’s unique combination of logic,
common sense and originality was
exactly what Grant was looking for;
18 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019
BEHIND CLOSED DOORS
and the pair went on to form Crown
Range Cellar Ltd in 2012. The pair
still blind taste wines today. “My
business background, combined with
my natural creativity, is why Grant
chose to work with me. It’s a very
successful partnership,” she says.
Another of Jing’s business mentors,
renowned jeweller Sir Michael
Hill, has proved invaluable on her
journey. As Jing learned more about
the New Zealand wine industry, she
realised there was a gap in the market
for a business producing bespoke
wine from some of the best wine
growing regions in New Zealand and
expanding this globally. Two years
later, Jing created Crown Range
Cellar, with the first winemaker’s
Signature Selection release in 2013 –
a Central Otago Pinot Noir made by
Grant Taylor. “Sir Michael has been a
mentor, a huge support and a friend
to me,” says Jing.
In 2017, Sir Michael named Jing
as one of the two people he admired
most (the other being Bob Charles),
due to her being the only woman,
and only Chinese, to ever win the
prestigious 2015 IWSC Pinot Noir
trophy. “Jing is the youngest female
Pinot Noir trophy winner (under
30) in New Zealand history,” by TV3
newshub reporter Jendy Harper in
2016 . In 2017 she was appointed an
IWSC ambassador, and the Crown
Range Cellar China Girl 2015
vintage was also a double trophy
winner for best Pinot Noir at the
2017 London IWC.
The next step was to open a space
for Jing to showcase her wine. “I
thought, wouldn’t it be wonderful to
bring Central Otago to Auckland! So
few people get the chance to visit the
region, this was an opportunity for
me to bring my vision to the heart
of Auckland.”
Tragedy struck at the beginning
of 2018, however, when the Crown
Range Cellar Lounge and tasting
room was gutted by fire, three weeks
before opening. “This is a very old
historical building. The electrical
wiring failed, and exploded,” says
Jing. “After 18 months of preparation
for our opening, everything was gone
overnight. Some very rare Patrick
eon wine was affected. Insurance
doesn’t cover creative vision, only
replacement rebuild materials. We
had to let staff go. I was faced with
two choices – walk away and take the
insurance, or start again.”
Fortunately, she chose the latter.
“The fire made me think harder
about the space,” she says. “It now
reflects the Otago region even more,
in part through architecture and
interior design. Influenced by natural
landscape elements from the region,
we changed the colour palette from
Cameron at Jing's Crown Range Cellar
opening with winemaker Grant Taylor (left)
and architect Ron Seeto (right)
Crown Range
Cellar wine
lounge
This calming, quiet space in
Parnell is mostly dedicated to
showcasing Crown Range Cellar's
seven wine collections, as well as
some of New Zealand's finest
wines. There is even a rare vintage
collection of international French
wines available.
The Lounge is also ideal for
business meetings, private
functions, interviews, or simply
to enjoy a glass of Crown Range
Cellar wine, New Zealand-made
gin or whisky, or a coffee. It is also
used as a space for Sommelier
education and wine tasting. The
lounge is open to the public,
with memberships available to
the public by appointment. With
room for thirty or more inside,
and a total of fifty including the
outdoor area, this truly unique
venue is a real treat.
For more information
ph 09 307 7966 or visit
www.crownrangecellar.com
white to black, and even wove some
of the charred wood from the fire
into the design. We even developed
our own decorative lighting, with real
tussock grass from central Otago.”
I have no doubt we will be seeing
and hearing much more about Jing
and her wines in the years to come.
Her future vision includes more
brand building, including The Stolen
Heart, Drowsy Fish, Fame, Moon
Rock and China Girl. These and
other Crown Range Cellar wines will
also become available at restaurants
over the coming months. W
WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 19
A Swirl
of Whites
NEW ZEALANDERS ARE A NATION OF WHITE WINE LOVERS, BUT ARE
WE MAKING THE MOST OF WHAT WE HAVE ON OFFER?
If you had to guess, what do you
think the four most-ordered white
wine in New Zealand restaurants
were? If you said Chardonnay,
Riesling, Pinot Gris and Sauvignon Blanc,
you’d be right. Other white varieties such
as Gewürztraminer, Albariño, Arneis or
Grüner Veltliner, delicious as they are,
don’t seem to get much of a look-in.
These wines might be avoided because
they are hard to pronounce, or wine
lovers may not be sure of the flavour
profile or dryness level. It could also
be that old chestnut - you like sticking
to the tried and true, habit takes over
each time you scan through the range at
your local.
Chardonnay is hands-down the
number one white wine sold. Its taste
profile of stonefruit and citrus, with
a measure of oak and great palate weight
makes it familiar, easy to consume and
an easy match with food. Two great
examples you should be looking to try
are Neudorf Rosie’s Block and Tony
Bish’s ‘Golden Egg’.
It may come as a surprise that Riesling
makes the list, yet the combination of
apple, white flowers, citrus and minerality
in a dry or off-dry style are excellent as
an aperitif and perfect for lighter weight,
fresh local seafood. Two great examples
you should be looking to try are Fromm
Spätlese and Pegasus Bay Bel Canto.
Pinot Gris is loved by many, and really
just sells itself. The flavours of pears and
apples, honeysuckle with or without
a little oak make for very easy drinking.
If you haven’t yet tried Dry River or
Greystone – it’s time.
Sauvignon Blanc needs no
introduction or taste reminders, but I’d
strongly advise you segue your next
purchases towards Greywacke Wild and
Saint Clair Reserve.
A blended white wine might strike
you as a little unusual, but there are
several great producers in NZ. If you’re
curious or serious about wine then ‘Toru’
by Te Whare Ra (TWR) is delicious.
TWR use Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris
and Riesling to craft this wine. W
WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 21
WHITE WINES
This grape variety has
to be one of the most
polarising. It is important
to note that there is no
one Chardonnay style, with terroir
and winemaking decisions able to
effect considerable variation in this
fantastic grape. Increasingly, the
style, shape and form of Chardonnay
is changing. While the popular
'traditional' creamy, fruity, oaky
and buttery expressions are still
available, a multitude of different
styles are evolving. As a food match,
Chardonnay loves fleshy or weighty
dishes such as smoked salmon or
fettuccine with cream sauces. I’ve had
an oak free Chardonnay with steak
tartare before and it was great.
Evolution and change in
Chardonnay styles, notably from New
Zealand, is inevitable. Viticulture
and winemakers are responding to
changes in weather, soil, environment
and market demands.
Competition for excellent yet
affordable Chardonnay is becoming
tougher. In order to reproduce
traditional expressions under
changing vineyard and growing
conditions, as well as keeping the
price the same or similar, winemakers
have to deploy different approaches
in the winery. The cost of making
fine wine is increasing, and so must
the price to customers to maintain
the standards.
Some wine producers are
embracing these changes by showing
more understanding of style within
style for Chardonnay. Some of
the practices include trialling
more natural winemaking to learn
where the boundary of consumer
acceptance lies and where a new
style may emerge. Less preservative,
no additives, less oak handing, small
batch wine making, different yeast
strains, high solids ferment, extended
lees ageing, concrete egg ferments
instead of steel, oak or plastic are
some of the approaches being
taken. Many of the resulting wines
are world-class. W
Chardonnay
a wine for all
reasons
22 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019
TASTING NOTES CHARDONNAY
Pyramid Valley Field of
1
Fire 2016 Chardonnay
New Zealand
This is delicious. The initial bouquet of flowers
and gun-flint to citrus and heirloom treefruit,
with complexity on the nose and palate,
together have wonderful harmony. Dry, with a
layer of oak spice and lees-derived wild spice to
tension and poise from the acidity and fine silky
tannins - take your time over this wine. Pause,
enjoy the weight and subtle power, flavours and
finish. Not all Chardonnay are for everyone, this
example will open your eyes and palate. Drink
now and through 2024.
POINTS: 96
Contact: www.pyramidvalley.co.nz
RRP $125.00
Pyramid Valley Lions
2
Tooth Chardonnay 2016
New Zealand
Complex and inviting bouquet with aromas of
grapefruit, peach and apricot woven between
aromas of vanilla and cashew, a limestone and
clay mineral quality. Delicious on the palate with
a saline feel, flavours of vanilla and other wood
spices, apple and yellow stonefruits. Very fine
wood tannins, natural acidity and long finish.
Complex and intriguing, alluring and very tasty.
drink now and through 2024.
POINTS: 96
Contact: www.pyramidvalley.co.nz
RRP $125.00
Sacred Hill Riflemans
3
Chardonnay 2016 Hawke’s Bay
Complex, enticing and distinctive bouquet.
Hazelnut and cashew, gun-flint and peach,
grapefruit and apple, lees and spice. Full bodied,
textured, leesy and fruity. Flavours of Brazil nut
and cashew, wood smoke, flint and leesy spices
are persistent contrasted by a core of fruit.
Weighty, medium+ acidity with a complex and
lengthy finish. Drink now and through 2026.
POINTS: 96
Contact: www.sacredhill.com
RRP $69.99
Sacred Hill Wine Thief
4
Chardonnay 2017 Hawke’s Bay
Great bouquet of Chardonnay, complex and
alluring. Aromas and flavours of baked peach
and nectarine, baked custard and raw brown
sugar. An abundance of spicy oak, specific and
engaging structure with a youthful acidity, oak
tannins, weight, warmth and core of fruit. Fullbodied
and powerful wine, lengthy finish and
complex. Drinkable now though best from 2021
through 2026+.
POINTS: 96
Contact: www.sacredhill.com
RRP $34.99
Vidal Legacy Chardonnay
5
2018 Hawke's Bay
Seductive, enticing, complex and glamorous
bouquet of Chardonnay. Aromas of roasted
cashew and yellow peach, baked golden apple
then grapefruit, a cheesy, whipped cream
moment and easy-to-spot wood spices. On
the palate - tense, vibrant, weighty, youthful and
dry. As complex and glamorous as the bouquet
suggests, with flavours of white and yellow
orchard fruits, wood spice and a flinty, leesy,
toasty harmonious core. Quite youthful with a
refreshing acid line, fine wood tannin layer, lees
spice and mineral finish. Delicious now though I
recommend decanting, even better in 2021. An
investment wine that will be the talk of many
fabulous dinner parties through to 2030 and
probably beyond.
POINTS: 96
Contact: www.vidal.co.nz
RRP $59.99
Vidal Soler Chardonnay 2018
6
Hawke's Bay
There’s no mistaking the power and youthful
impact that the bouquet of this wine offers -
peach and nectarine, vanilla, burnt butter and
brazil nut, lees spices and blond tobacco. A
natural complexity and raw energy. Equally
intense on the palate with flavours of yellow
stonefruit, grapefruit, apple and layers of wood
spice and lees textures. An abundance of oak
and acidity with some fine oak tannins. Very
lengthy & finishing just dry and complex. Ideal
drinking from 2021 through 2028.
POINTS: 96
Contact: www.vidal.co.nz
RRP $34.99
7
Auntsfield Single Vineyard
Chardonnay 2016 Marlborough
A plush and pure fruit attack with a calm
creamy bouquet. Aromas of white peach and
apricot, sweet red apple then wood spice and
vanilla. Firm youthful and dry on the palate with
a vibrant fruit core, wet stone mineral moment,
mild fine wood tannins and plenty of refreshing
and balancing acidity. Lush, fresh and juicy
finish with a building complexity. Drink now and
through 2026.
POINTS: 95
Contact: www.auntsfield.co.nz
RRP $37.99
More next page>>
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WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 23
TASTING NOTES CHARDONNAY
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Brennan Gibbston
8
Chardonnay 2016
Central Otago
A very different and exciting bouquet of
chardonnay with a lees and wood smoke
beginning, then lemon peel, apple and lemon
custard aromas. These ideas follow through to
the palate with a seamless transition, abundant
acidity and measured use of oak. Well made
and lengthy, complex and very individual.
Drink now and through 2024.
POINTS: 95
Contact: www.brennanwines.com
RRP $35.00
Church Road Grand
9
Reserve Chardonnay 2018
Hawke's Bay
There's no mistaking the power and impact of
this wine with aromas of sweet oak and spices,
vanilla then roasted peach, sweet lemon and
a fine layer of stony minerality. Dry, weighty,
luscious creamy texture, fine wood tannins,
medium acidity and long finish. On the 2nd
& 3rd sips the impact builds through to an
intense and very enjoyable climax of fruit, oak
and concentration. Drink now if decanted,
best from 2020 through 2025.
POINTS: 95
Contact: www.church-road.com/en-nz
RRP $39.99
Pask Gimblett Gravels
10
Small Batch Chardonnay
2016 Hawke's Bay
Lovely bouquet with layers of fruit and
baking spices, peach and quince, apple
and sweet grapefruit. A lively nutty spicy
oak layer adds to the complexity. The
palate reflects all these ideas with a nutty
cashew-like layer, apple and yellow peach,
vanilla and stony mineral complexities.
Balanced and well made. Drink now and
through 2026.
POINTS: 95
Contact: www.pask.co.nz
RRP $25.00
Pegasus Bay Virtuoso
11
Chardonnay 2016 North
Canterbury
An intense, powerful bouquet of
Chardonnay with distinctive messages
of oak and oak spices, Brazil nut, cashew
and burnt butter. Equally intense and
contrasting core of fruit with baked peach
and nectarine then a sweet vanilla spice.
The special part of this wine is the wild
florals, citrus peel a leesy complexity which
builds on the palate with each sip. Long
complex finish. Decant for service. Best
from late 2020 through 2026.
POINTS: 95
Contact: www.pegasusbay.com
RRP $60.00
Tohu Whenua Awa Single
12
Vineyard Chardonnay 2017
Awatere Valley, Marlborough
Complex, fragrant, youthful and powerful
bouquet of Chardonnay. Aromas and
flavours of gun flint and white peach, lemon
curd and new wood, vanilla and apple. No
mistaking the acidity, youthful energy, and
complexity of this example. Dry, weighty,
woody and layered. A wine to watch.
Decant for service please, with best drinking
from 2021 through 2026.
POINTS: 95
Contact: www.tohuwines.co.nz/
whenuaseries
RRP $39.99
Tony Bish Golden
13
Egg Chardonnay 2017
Hawke's Bay
Complex, enticing and distinctive bouquet.
Hazelnut and cashew, gunflint and peach,
grapefruit and apple, lees and spice. Fullbodied,
textured, leesy and fruity. Nut and
smoke and gunflint characters are persistent
with a core of fruit and flavours for contrast
and weight. Medium+ acidity, complex
lengthy finish. Drink now and through 2026.
POINTS: 95
Contact: www.tonybishwines.co.nz
RRP $39.95
14
Tony Bish ‘Skeetfield’
Chardonnay 2017
Hawke's Bay
An engaging bouquet with precise aromas
of citrus flesh and peel, peach and red apple.
The bouquet has shape and form, texture
from sulphide-like residue and natural ferment
scents. The connection to oak and fruit is
seamless and complex, unfurling in glass over
several minutes. Youthful, textured, fruity
and flavourful. Noticeable oak, which links
seamlessly with the fruit. Great palate weight,
fine oak tannins, loads of texture, flavours of
citrus, apple and stonefruit and a long finish. A
lovely example of Chardonnay. Drink now and
through 2028.
POINTS: 95
Contact: www.tonybishwines.co.nz
RRP $53.99
More next page>>
24 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019
An elegant fusion of flavour and fashion.
@youngandcowines_nz
Please Enjoy Responsibly.
TASTING NOTES CHARDONNAY
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Villa Maria Single Vineyard
15
Keltern Chardonnay 2017
Hawke's Bay
Floral, flinty, fragrant, complex and enticing
bouquet. Aromas and flavours of whitefleshed
fruits, oak and wood spice. White
peach and red apple, gun metal and flint,
stones and tannin textures. A delicious wine
with tension, poise and length. Drink now and
through 2030.
POINTS: 95
Contact: www.villamariawines.com
RRP $79.99
Akarua Chardonnay 2018
16
Central Otago
Fantastic red fruited bouquet Youthful,
floral and sweet citrus scented bouquet.
White flowers and mineral, white peach
and apple, some lemon and pear
suggestions. Palate reflects the nose with
a youthful, firmly textured and finely tuned
flavours. As the wine opens up - flavours
suggested by the nose emerge. Plenty
of acidity, moderate measure of oak, well
made and cellar ready. Best drinking from
late 2020 through 2025.
POINTS: 94
Contact: www.akarua.com
RRP $29.00
Greystone Chardonnay 2017
17
North Canterbury
Floral, fruity, some wood accents and
earthy/mineral layers. Creamy, weighty,
complex and layered on the palate.
Flavours do reflect the nose, but this
wine is more about texture and synergy.
Medium+(ish) acidity, moderate use of oak
with fine tannis and wood spices, a core of
yellow fruits and apple, some wildflowers
and intriguing harmony. Well made with a
lengthy finish. Drink now and through 2024.
POINTS: 94
Contact: www.greystonewines.co.nz
RRP $39.00
Neudorf Rosie’s Block
18
Chardonnay 2017 Nelson
Enticing and intriguing bouquet of
Chardonnay with a flinty floral then ripe
yellow stonefruit beginning. As the wine
opens up in glass, sweet scents of oak
emerge with vanilla and white toast then a
distinctive mineral and honeysuckle layer.
Wonderful texture on the palate with a
vibrant core of fruit energised by acidity
and new oak; flavours of white peach, red
apple and quince; the vanilla sweet oak
layer returns with a noticeable spice lick
from the wood. Lovely lengthy finish, great
balance and youthful energy. Drink now
and through 2024.
POINTS: 94
Contact: www.neudorf.co.nz
RRP $33.00
Pask Gimblett Gravels
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Chardonnay 2018
Hawke's Bay
No mistaking the power and the presence
of this wine on the nose with aromas of
spicy toasty wood, ripe stone fruit and
baked apple. Nutty flavours of French
Oak and creamy textures laced with spice
and acidity, a core of yellow fleshed stone
fruit, bacon-like oak layer and full bodied
richness. A lovely example - drinking well
now and through 2024.
POINTS: 94
Contact: www.pask.co.nz
RRP $22.00
Pegasus Bay Chardonnay
20
2017 North Canterbury
An intense, powerful bouquet of Chardonnay
with distinctive messages of oak and oak
spices, Brazil nut, cashew and burnt butter.
Equally intense and contrasting core of fruit
with baked peach and nectarine then a sweet
vanilla. The special part of this wine is the
wild florals, citrus peel and leesy complexity
which builds on the palate with each sip. Long
finish, decant for service. Best from late 2020
through 2026.
POINTS: 94
Contact: www.pegasusbay.com
RRP $43.00
Seifried Chardonnay 2017
21
Nelson
Aromas of white and yellow peach,
nectarine, some yellow apple and mild
baking spices of vanilla then toasty nutty
oak spice with a mild cashew quality. On
the palate - lovely! Flavours of apples
and peaches accentuated with oak and
baking spice layers. Fine creamy texture
and lengthy finish with plenty of acidity
and whispers of wood tannin adding
structure, texture and length. Drink now
and through 2023.
POINTS: 94
Contact: www.seifried.co.nz
RRP $17.00
26 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019
TASTING NOTES CHARDONNAY
Tohu Whenua Matua Single
22
Vineyard Chardonnay 2017
Upper Moutere, Nelson
Attractive bouquet of Chardonnay with
some familiar aromas of warm peach and
ripe apple, grapefruit peel then vanilla
custard, cashew nut and toasty wood.
Plenty of complexity and charm, dry and
weighty wine on the palate with flavours
that mirror the nose. Peach and apple,
wood spices and baked nuts, a burnt
butter, clove and vanilla push. Some very
fine wood tannins and medium+ acidity.
Overall a lovely wine that needs bottledevelopment
time in your cellar. Best
drinking from late 2020 through 2026+.
POINTS: 94
Contact: www.tohuwines.co.nz/
whenuaseries
RRP $34.99
Villa Maria Reserve
23
Chardonnay 2017
Hawke's Bay
Quietly complex bouquet with aromas
and flavours of yellow peach and baked
red apple, wood spices and vanilla custard.
Dry, creamy spicy and delicious. Flavours
reflect the bouquet, with layers of delicate
wood tannins, medium+ acidity and a
core of fruit and texture. Lovely power
and balance, great length. Drink now and
through 2026.
POINTS: 94
Contact: www.villamariawines.com
RRP $39.99
Villa Maria Reserve
24
Chardonnay 2016
Marlborough
Smoky, toasty, nutty, rich and complex.
Equally intense on the palate with flavours
of roasted stonefruits and grapefruit. A
sweet nutty richness follows with cashew
and brazil, spices and acidity. Dry lengthy
finish with an intensity, complexity and
richness that lasts long after the wine
is swallowed. Delicious! Drink now and
through 2030.
POINTS: 94
Contact: www.villamariawines.com
RRP $34.99
creamy texture contrasted by acidity.
Lengthy, and well made. Drink now and
through 2025.
POINTS: 93
Contact: www.eskvalley.co.nz
RRP $19.99
Matahiwi Holly
26
Chardonnay 2018
Hawke’s Bay
Smoke, toast, sweet barrel and brown
spices. A core of dark cherry and dried
raspberry fruit. Fine tannins and medium+
(ish) acidity. A core of fine oak flavours
offset by ripe red berry fruit flavours and
a little red apple skin. Lovely calmness
adding to the complexity, as well as
potential for cellar ageing. Drinkable now
- best from 2020 through 2030.
POINTS: 93
Contact: www.matahiwi.co.nz
RRP $32.99
Pyramid Valley Chardonnay
27
2017 Marlborough
Varietal, fruity, familiar and fresh fruited
bouquet. Aromas of wood before fruit,
apple before spice, peach before flowers.
Dry, weighty and full of fruit, wood and wild
ferment flavours - flowers and flint, leesy
spice and very fine tannins. Balanced, fresh,
building complexity, loads of texture and
well made. Drink now and through 2024.
POINTS: 93
Contact: www.pyramidvalley.co.nz
RRP $40.00
Seifried Winemakers
28
Collection Barrique
Fermented Chardonnay 2016
Nelson
Aromas and flavours of baked orchard
fruits with cashew and baking spices
of toasty oak, vanilla custard, peach,
nectarine, red apple then vanilla and
clove. Full-bodied, rich and creamy, quite
delicious with a creamy texture an slightly
sweet vanillin long finish. Drink now and
through 2024.
POINTS: 93
Contact: www.seifried.co.nz
RRP $26.00
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Esk Valley Chardonnay 2017
25
Hawke's Bay
Immediately intriguing, complex, fruity
and spicy. Layers of cashew and spice,
white peach and citrus Dry with a weighty,
More next page>>
WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 27
TASTING NOTES CHARDONNAY
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Giesen The Brothers
29
Chardonnay 2018
Marlborough
Lovely bouquet and palate of
Chardonnay with aromas and flavours
of stone fruits, apple and grapefruit
peel. A layer of oak with some spice and
wood flavours, a nutty buttery note and
soft creamy texture overall. Lots to like
and enjoy with this wine, balanced with
decent weight, medium acidity and a
completeness. Ready to enjoy today and
through 2022.
POINTS: 92
Contact: www.giesenwines.co.nz
RRP $26.99
Gibbston Valley China
30
Terrace Chardonnay 2017
Central Otago
A fine bouquet that encapsulates
the essence of the vineyard and soil,
cool climate Otago and excellent
winemaking. Aromas and flavours of
white peach and crunchy red apple, the
layer of oak flavour, acidity and weight
of fruit offer an elegant structure and
seamless flavour integration reflective of
the nose. Cool rocky soil and minerality
flavours integrate well with this finelytuned
example. Drinking best from 2020
through 2026.
POINTS: 92
Contact: www.gibbstonvalley.com
RRP $42.00
Lake Chalice The
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Falcon Chardonnay 2017
Marlborough
Enticing aromas of peach and vanilla,
nectarine and grapefruit peel. A butter
toast layer adds depth and a layer
of complexity. Fresh, fruity, crunchy,
textured wine with weight and youthful
bite. Lengthy finish, balanced and ready.
Drink now and through 2023.
POINTS: 92
Contact: www.lakechalice.com
RRP $18.99
Palliser Estate Chardonnay
32
2017 Wairarapa
Classic bouquet of Chardonnay with
creamy rounded texture, aromas of
vanilla and peach, yellow apple and
nutty oak layer. Dry on the palate with
a full-bodied texture, flavours of stone
and tree fruits, some grapefruit peel
suggestion adding contrast and length.
No mistaking this wine’s oak - the nutty
cashew flavours and a little wood smoke
- balanced and layered into the wine well.
Lengthy finish with a light dusty mineral
finish. Drink now and through 2024.
POINTS: 92
Contact: www.palliser.co.nz
RRP $43.00
Villa Maria Platinum
33
Selection Chardonnay
2017 Hawke's Bay
Rather nice bouquet of Chardonnay
with scents of vanilla and wood spice,
ripe apple and yellow stone fruits,
baked cashew and baking spice. Dry,
nutty, spicy and fruity on the palate with
flavours that reflect the nose, medium+
body with silky almost creamy texture.
Plenty of acidity and freshness. A
charming and immediately enjoyable
example. Drink now and through 2022.
POINTS: 90
Contact: www.villamariawines.com
RRP $24.99
Ara Single Estate
34
Chardonnay 2018
Marlborough
Many classic aromas and flavours to this
Chardonnay - white and yellow peach,
yellow and red apple, vanilla and soft
cashew nut-oak. A light custard note too.
Creamy texture with medium acidity,
weighty, fruity and dry. A balanced and
well-made wine, with decent length and
finish. Best from today and through 2021.
POINTS: 90
Contact: www.arawines.co.nz
RRP $19.99
Lake Chalice The
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Raptor Chardonnay 2017
Marlborough
Aromas of peaches and grapefruit, a
nutty core of toasty wood and spice,
apples and dry stone minerality. Weighty,
creamy, fresh, crunchy and dry on the
palate. Flavours reflect the nose with
sound structure and finish. Drink now
and through 2022.
POINTS: 90
Contact: www.lakechalice.com
RRP $22.99
28 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019
TASTING NOTES CHARDONNAY
Sacred Hill Reserve
36
Chardonnay 2018
Hawke’s Bay
Refreshing and familiar bouquet of
Chardonnay with aromas and flavours of
apple and peach, vanilla and cream, even
a little custard and toasty wood layer. Dry
on the palate with decent weight and
acidity. Nice measure of oak and wood
spices to match, balanced and well made.
Drink now and through 2022.
POINTS: 90
Contact: www.sacredhill.com
RRP $21.99
Crafters Union
37
Chardonnay 2018
Hawke's Bay
Very recognisable and appealing
bouquet of Chardonnay with ripe
apple, peaches and cream, vanilla and
mild toasty wood moments. Dry on
the palate with moderate weight and
intensity, nice acid line and flavours that
mirror the nose. Well made in a ‘drink
now’ style. Best drinking from today and
through 2021.
POINTS: 88
Contact: www.craftersunionwines.com
RRP $21.99
Selaks The Taste
38
Collection Buttery
Chardonnay 2018 Hawke's Bay
Smoky, toasty, nutty and buttery
bouquet of Chardonnay. Flavours of
the same on the palate with a creamy
texture, moderate acidity, vanilla, yellow
stonefruits and wood spices. Balanced
and well made in a drink now expression.
Best from today and through 2020.
POINTS: 88
Contact: www.selaks.co.nz
RRP $21.99
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WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 29
Whãnau, Whenua...
Tohu
Somewhere in the upper
realms of the Awatere Valley
in Marlborough, you’ll find
Whenua Awa, a vineyard
named in tribute to the Awatere
River that surrounds parts of the
vineyard. Some 198km away, in
Upper Moutere, Nelson, is the
vineyard Whenua Matua, a name that
translates to ‘significant land’.
Both these vineyards are a part
of Tohu Wines, one of the brands
produced under Kono, a Mãoriowned
food and drinks company
based in Te Tauihu, the top of the
South Island.
As business with a 500-year
plan, Kono bases its culture on
kaitiakitanga: the importance of
balance, and of guardianship of
the land for future generations.
Acknowledged as He mãtãmua
taketake since 1998, Tohu is the
first Mãori owned and operated
wine label. Originally run with just
contract growers, the first vintage of
3,200 cases were sold domestically.
Now Tohu is a bricks and mortar
winery which can process 3,000
tonnes of fruit, with 48 hectares of
vineyard for Sauvignon Blanc, 39
hectares for Pinot Noir, 29 hectares
of Chardonnay, Riesling, Pinot Blanc,
Albariño and Pinot Gris combined.
After national and international
successes, which include the 2016
Tohu Single Vineyard Marlborough
Sauvignon Blanc being selected at an
invitation-only dinner for former US
President Barack Obama during his
visit to New Zealand in 2018, and
being named in Air New Zealand’s
Fine Wines of New Zealand list
in 2017, winemaker Bruce Taylor
and his team have just launched
Tohu Whenua Series Wines, a new
set of unique wines created to
represent their connection to their
beloved land.
“These wines are a gift from
the land,” explains Taylor, chief
winemaker at Tohu since 2008. “In
2015 I put aside a Pinot Noir to
create the Whenua series. Now, under
the Whenua wines, we produce about
eight different wine varietals. The
Whenua series is about concentrating
on the strengths of the two very
different vineyards – the Whenua
Matua vineyard, set in the sundrenched
slopes of the Moutere Hills
in Nelson; and Whenua Awa, high
on the remote terraces of the Upper
Awatere Valley.
With these two very different
vineyards, Taylor and his team have
worked hard to capture a bit of the
identity of this land in their Tohu
Whenua series. “As a winemaker I
believe looking after your land and
grapes in a way that will still be
Winemaker Bruce Taylor has
been with Tohu for 11 years
30 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019
BEHIND CLOSED DOORS
What does
the Tohu koru
represent?
In Māori, a tohu can be a sign,
symbol, distinguishing feature
of signature. The Tohu Wines
symbol was crafted to include
carved patterning known as
rauponga, which is categorised
by a row of notched chevrons.
The koru symbolises growth, life
and the natural world. “For us, the
koru represents the growth of our
company and the journey of our
people from the past to today,”
says winemaker Bruce Taylor. “It
speaks of our long-term goals
for future generations and has
become our ‘tohu’ – our signature.
sustainable in future, and organic
production is key to that. I have
a couple of kids myself now, and
it’s hard not to feel uncomfortable
about conventional practices that are
sometimes used in wine production.
“I’ve been playing with organics,
and traditional Mãori practices,
which can be very difficult to do
and expensive to manage. But we are
exploring ways of using traditional
Mãori practices and values in our
modern winery in a financially
stable way.”
Taylor believes that from a
production perspective, the Tohu
Whenua single vineyard Sauvignon
Blanc will be the biggest seller. “As
a winemaker I drink a lot of Pinot
Noir and Chardonnay,” he says. “That
being said, I’m pretty stoked with
all the varieties in the new range.
They really are a gift from the land,
our turangewaewae; the place where
we stand.” W
The Kono
project
The Kono is a woven basket
traditionally used as a food basket
for sharing and giving. The
company uses it as a promise to
their manuhiri, of the finest quality
that nature can provide, now
and forever.
WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 31
WHITE WINES
Wild about
Blanc
THE FRUITS OF A SAUVIGNON BLANC MAKE IT ONE OF NEW
ZEALAND'S FAVOURITE VARIETIES - AND IT'S GROWING MORE
POPULAR EVERY YEAR
There’s no mistaking the
immediacy with which
New Zealand Sauvignon
Blanc engages the senses.
With pungent aromas of sweet herb,
tropical fruit, white peach, citrus, apple,
gooseberry and hay, the variety has a lot
to offer. Fresh, even crunchy textures and
with laser-beam acidity when young, this
variety also offers a lot of palate action
as well.
All wine regions in NZ grow
Sauvignon Blanc, with each producing
a version similar to the description above.
With around 500 growers, 140 producers
and +24,000 hectares of vines in the
ground, Marlborough remains our largest
for Sauvignon Blanc outputs.
The classic expression of Sauvignon
Blanc hasn’t changed very much in the
last couple of decades. However, even
Sauvignon Blanc is subject to vintage
variation and winemaker skillset. The
2013 through 2017 vintages have
generally been very good to excellent.
Be sure to drink these wines soon to
make way for the 2019, the quality
looks excellent.
There are a growing number of
producers exploring the boundaries
of what this variety can offer if treated
differently in the vineyard and winery.
For example, a biodynamic or organically
farmed Sauvignon Blanc vineyard can
enhance texture and mineral suggestions.
Teasing out a saline flavour - or additional
texture with lees stirring, and the use of
neutral oak or barrel-fermented or aged
styles - demonstrates the new territory
Sauvignon Blanc is exploring. There are.
some producers releasing library stock
with 4-5 years bottle age, while others
add a little Sauvignon Gris or even Pinot
Gris as a co-ferment. W
32 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019
TASTING NOTES SAUVIGNON BLANC
Auntsfield South Oaks
1
Sauvignon Blanc 2016
Marlborough
Complex and developing bouquet of
Sauvignon Blanc with aromas and flavours
of baking spices and lemon pepper, baked
apple and wood smoke, ripe peach and
vanilla. A weighty and complex wine with a
youthful acid line, nutty oak flavour, some
pristine fine tannins and long varietal finish.
Complex and very enjoyable. Drink now
and through 2025+.
POINTS: 96
Contact: www.auntsfield.co.nz
RRP $38.00
Nautilus Sauvignon Blanc
2
2018 Marlborough
Immediately complex and seductive bouquet
of Sauvignon Blanc, weighty and rich in
aromas of white fleshed tree fruits, some
tropical notes, citrus and lees-spices. Textured
on the palate with abundant acidity, spice and
flavours that reflect the nose. Lengthy finish.
Drink now and through 2022.
POINTS: 95
Contact: www.nautilusestate.com
RRP $25.00
Loveblock Sauvignon Blanc
3
2018 Marlborough
Very attractive bouquet of organic, vegan
Sauvignon Blanc, with a core of fruit then a
lees-like spice layer as well as a hint of vanilla.
Silky texture on the palate with flavours of
citrus and gooseberry, some tropical fruits
and persimmon. A tangerine peel note and
wild flowers. Plenty of acidity and lengthy
finish. What a lovely wine! drink now and
through 2022.
POINTS: 95
Contact: www.loveblockwine.com
RRP $21.99
Blind River Awatere Valley
4
Sauvignon Blanc 2018
Marlborough
A lovely bouquet with an enticing,
smooth and persistent bouquet of sweet
citrus, lemon thyme green apple and
pink grapefruit aromas. Equally fresh and
enticing on the palate with plenty of citrus
peel and fresh herb flavours, green apple
and some tropical fruit suggestions. Very
youthful and fresh with plenty of acidity
and crunchy textures. Well made, and
drinking well now, though best from late
2019 through 2025.
POINTS: 94
Contact: www.lawsonsdryhills.co.nz
RRP $25.00
Lawson's Dry Hills Reserve
5
Sauvignon Blanc 2018
Marlborough
Varietal, complex, enticing and layered
bouquet of Sauvignon Blanc. Classic yet
quiet pungency of fresh herbs, tropical fruits,
green bell-pepper and sweet grapefruit. As
the wine opens up in glass, a gentle wood
spice layer emerges adding complexity and
intrigue. Fresh, dry, fruity and tasty, plenty of
texture and gentle moments of wood spices,
a gooseberry and pineapple suggestion,
lengthy and very satisfying finish. Drink now
and through 2026.
POINTS: 94
Contact: www.lawsonsdryhills.co.nz
RRP $25.00
Tohu Whenua Awa Single
6
Vineyard Sauvignon
Blanc 2018 Awatere Valley,
Marlborough
Great bouquet and palate. Aromas of
tropical fruits and sweet hay, pink grapefruit
and crisp fridge-cold Pacific Rose apple. A
savoury minerality cushioned by flavours of
pineapple and passionfruit are contrasted
by high acidity and a crunchy texture. Long
finish, dry and very satisfying. Drink now
and through 2025. A wine that will most
certainly age if cellared properly.
POINTS: 94
Contact: www.tohuwines.co.nz/
whenuaseries
RRP $29.99
Auntsfield Single Vineyard
7
Sauvignon Blanc 2018
Marlborough
Seductive and alluring bouquet of Sauvignon
Blanc with softer fruit spice layers woven
between suggestions of lemon and sweet
grapefruit, apple, mineral and fresh lychee.
Crisp, dry, packed with flavour and texture.
Notable acidity well balanced against
the ripeness of fruit and gentle fruit spice
moments. Lengthy and quite complex finish.
Drink now through 2022.
POINTS: 93
Contact: www.auntsfield.co.nz
RRP $25.00
More next page>>
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WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 33
TASTING NOTES SAUVIGNON BLANC
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Te Pa The Reserve
8
Collection Sauvignon
Blanc 2018 Marlborough
A sophisticated and charming bouquet of
Sauvignon Blanc with a light leesy spice
quality, leading to fruit aromas of yellow
stonefruits and citrus, some gentle tropical
fruit notes and sweet hay. Crisp, refreshing,
fruity and just dry on the palate, decent fruit
weight and flavours that reflect the nose with
a light lees ginger spice layer. Well made -
drink now and through 2022.
POINTS: 93
Contact: www.tepawines.com
RRP $24.99
Toi Toi Sauvignon Blanc
9
Reserve 2018 Marlborough
A very classy wine indeed with aromas and
f lavours of pink grapefruit and red apple,
tropical fruits of mango and white pineapple
with a lemon twist. Fresh basil and thyme
scents with a wet stone mineral suggestion.
Dry on the palate with abundant acidity, a
core of fruit with a vibrant texture. Drink now
and through 2022.
93 POINTS
Contact: www.toitoiwines.co.nz
RRP $22.00
Yealands Single Vineyard
10
Awatere Valley 2018
Marlborough
Complex and engaging bouquet of
Sauvignon Blanc with aromas of organic
minerals, a seaside saline note and fruits of
the orchard especially ripe citrus and apple
with a noteworthy layer of herbaceousness.
Also engaging on the palate with a great
texture flavour and length. Drink now and
through 2022.
POINTS: 94
Contact: www.yealands.co.nz
RRP $25.00
Akarua Pisa Sauvignon
11
Blanc 2018 Central Otago
Distinctive bouquet with aromas of sweet
herb and citrus, apple and core of minerality
in this organic wine. A whisper of dried
herb. Fruity on the palate with a core of red
apple, white peach and citrus flavours. The
minerality and sweet herb returns. Plenty of
acidity, a decent length and finish. Drink now
and through 2021.
POINTS: 92
Contact: www.akarua.com
RRP $29.00
Aotea by the Seifried
12
Family Sauvignon Blanc
2019 Nelson
Distinctive bouquet and palate of
Sauvignon Blanc, with flavours of grapefruit
and tropical fruits, a definitive mineral,
fresh herb and sweet hay flavour. Loads
of energy too, with plenty of acidity, crisp
textures and minerality. Dry finish with
a flinty, grassy and mineral residue. Well
made, balanced and refreshing. Drink now
and through 2022.
POINTS: 92
Contact: www.seifried.co.nz
RRP $29.00
Lake Chalice The Raptor
13
2018 Marlborough
Varietal, lush, fresh, juicy and inviting
bouquet of Sauvignon Blanc. Flowers and
red apple, sweet white peach and fresh
herbs, green mango and passionfruit. A wet
stone and citrus layers adds some classic
moments. Fresh, lush, juicy and fruity on the
palate. A steely freshness and satin texture
contrasted by high acidity makes for a very
enjoyable and classic example. Drink now and
through 2025.
POINTS: 92
Contact: www.lakechalice.com
RRP $22.99
Vidal Estate Sauvignon
14
Blanc 2018 Marlborough
Pungent, fruity, tropical and citrus laden
with lemon, apple, grapefruit and pineapple
fruit bouquet. Vibrant, crisp, tropical and dry
on the apple; high acidity with a refreshing
salivating texture, steely, fruity and luscious.
Drink now and through 2021.
POINTS: 92
Contact: www.vidal.co.nz
RRP $15.99
34 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019
TASTING NOTES SAUVIGNON BLANC
Villa Maria Platinum
15
Selection Sauvignon Blanc
2018 Marlborough
Softer more complex bouquet of Sauvignon
Blanc with aromas of ripe yellow fruits,
sweet red apple, a white flower moment
and gentle aged on lees derived apple
pie suggestion. Tasty, textured, crisp and
just dry on the palate. Flavours of lemon
and grapefruit emerge alongside some
red apple, peach and dried pineapple.
Plenty of acidity, some spice and generous
weight equal a very desirable flavour and
texture profile. Totally drinkable today and
through 2022.
POINTS: 92
Contact: www.villamariawines.com
RRP $24.99
Harwood Hall Sauvignon
16
Blanc 2018 Marlborough
No mistaking the bouquet of Sauvignon
Blanc here - aromas of dry stone and
mineral salts, green apple, red apple and
grapefruit, some fresh herb and bellpepper
notes. Balanced, even, refreshingly
crisp, fruity and a dry finish. The complete
package in this wine, balanced and well
made. Drink now and through 2021.
POINTS: 91
Contact: www.harwoodhall.co.nz
RRP $19.99
Lawson's Dry Hills
17
Sauvignon Blanc 2018
Marlborough
A complete and classic bouquet of
Sauvignon Blanc, with scents of sweet
herbs and tropical fruits, lemon and
grapefruit flesh, crunchy apple and wet
stone minerality suggestions. Dry, fruity and
crunchy on the palate with flavours of sweet
herb and peach, fresh apple, herbaceous,
crisp and dry. Balanced and well made,
ready to enjoy today and through 2024.
POINTS: 91
Contact: www.lawsonsdryhills.co.nz
RRP $20.00
Loveblock Sauvignon Gris
18
2014 Marlborough
The bouquet of this organic and vegan
wine shows both a complex wine as
well as specific bottle-development
aromas. Heirloom lemon and pear, tea
and other floral spices, some preserved
apple and stony soil complexities. Dry
on the palate with flavours that mirror
the nose, medium+ acidity, medium
weight, balanced and quite lengthy. Drink
now and through 2022. Nice second
course wine.
POINTS: 90
Contact: www.loveblockwine.com
RRP $21.99
Ara Single Estate
19
Sauvignon Blanc 2018
Marlborough
Aromas of lemongrass, sweet hay,
grapefruit, mango and pineapple. Crisp, dry,
fruity and ready with flavours of apples and
citrus fruits, tropical notes of pasionfruit and
pineapple. Herbaceous grassy notes begin
to emerge on the finish. Balanced and well
made, drink now and through 2021.
POINTS: 89
Contact: www.arawines.co.nz
RRP $19.99
Selaks The Taste Collection
20
Zesty Sauvignon Blanc
2018 Hawke's Bay
Varietal, fruity, vibrant and classic bouquet
of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. Peaches
and gooseberry, sweet hay and grapefruit.
Some passionfruit and mango moments.
Crisp, refreshing and just dry. Flavours
mirror the nose with a light floral and
white spice lift. Well made. Drink now and
through 2021.
POINTS: 88
Contact: www.selaks.co.nz
RRP $21.99
15
16
17
18
19
20
WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 35
Alastair Maling
MASTER OF WINE
Steve Smith
MASTER OF WINE
Simon Nash
MASTER OF WINE
David Allen
MASTER OF WINE
Sam Harrop
MASTER OF WINE
Michael Brajkovich
MASTER OF WINE
Emma Jenkins
MASTER OF WINE
Cameron Douglas
MASTER SOMMELIER
WHITE WINES
Food
Friends
YOU CAN'T GO WRONG WITH A GOOD KIWI
PINOT GRIS ALONGSIDE YOUR FAVOURITE MEAL
At the heart of
quality, Pinot Gris is
excellent fruit and
great winemaking. All
wine regions in New Zealand
produce Gris, with a wide range
of flavours from white fleshed
fruits especially pears, apples
and quince to white-fleshed
stonefruits such as nectarine and
nashi. Pinot Gris responds well to
some oak or wood contact too,
with the better examples using
the medium for texture over
wood flavour (both can be great).
Acidity is usually medium or
slightly above; with the trend
towards dry to just dry styles
with a core of fruit, a satin or
silky texture can be experienced.
Some firmer styles of Gris are
available as well, often achieved
using a little skin contact to
add texture.
Gris seems to favour a
natural fermentation technique
which can often add vibrato
to the palate. With some extra
time on lees a honeysuckle,
smoky ginger-like character can
be harnessed.
What makes Pinot Gris so
popular is, in part, its predictable
and approachable characteristics.
Gris is very food friendly as it
marries well with menu items
which have soft textures and
mildly intense flavours. A creamy
fish pasta with a little olive, fresh
parmesan and grind of black
pepper is an ideal match. When
Gris has noticeable oak with a
little smoke and baking spice
flavours, foods such as smoked
chicken or fish tempura are an
excellent combination. W
WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 37
TASTING NOTES PINOT GRIS
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
Domain Road Defiance
1
Pinot Gris 2018 Central
Otago
Very attractive bouquet of Gris - floral,
fruity and layered. Flavours of white
fleshed fruits, citrus zest and cold stone
minerality. Gentle salty note, nice weight
and texture in a an off-dry expression.
Balanced, lengthy finish. A wine for
many Gris fans to enjoy. Drink now and
through 2021.
POINTS: 93
Contact: steve@copilotdistributors.co.nz
RRP $26.00
Villa Maria Platinum
2
Selection Pinot Gris 2018
Marlborough
Creamy, soft and gentle bouquet of Gris
with aromas of fresh and poached pear,
some apple and white peach. A touch of
spice adds depth and complexity. There’s
no mistaking the full, rich and spicy layers
on the palate. Lush and just dry, warm and
generous - dare I say it - quite Alsace-like in
flavour, richness and texture. Lovely lengthy
finish, persistent and flavoursome. Drink
now and through 2021.
POINTS: 92
Contact: www.villamariawines.com
RRP $24.99
Toi Toi Brookdale
3
Reserve Pinot Gris 2018
Marlborough
A lovely bouquet with intensity, freshness
and varietal concentration showing aromas
and flavours of honeysuckle, peach and
apple then a leesy lightly spiced layer.
Medium weight with a firm texture and
contrasting core of fruit, dry finish. Drink
now and through 2021.
POINTS: 90
Contact: www.toitoiwines.co.nz
RRP $22.99
Framingham Nobody’s
4
Hero Pinot Gris 2018
Marlborough
A great example of Gris to get stuck into
- aromas and flavours of fat juicy pear,
sweet golden apple and a layer of white
spice and hint stone minerality. Balanced
and well made with a creamy-ish texture
and drifting satisfying finish. Drink now
and through 2021.
POINTS: 89
Contact: www.framingham.co.nz
RRP $19.99
Nautilus 2017 Pinot Gris
5
Marlborough
Quite a lush, ripe and fruity bouquet with
whispers of a savoury undertone and
a touch of barrel spice and complexity.
Flavours of white peach, apple and Asian
pear, crisp and dry on the finish though a
touch of residual sweetness adds in a little
satin rounded texture. Balanced throughout
the palate - ready to enjoy and through
2020.
POINTS: 89
Contact: www.nautilusestate.com
RRP $29.90
Seifried Pinot Gris 2018
6
Nelson
Fragrant varietal and spice-led bouquet.
On the palate flavours of spicy pear and
red apple, a gingery lees flavour adds
depth and complexity. Fresh, vibrant
and with a definitive varietal intensity
reflecting fruit flavours of pear and apple;
medium+ acidity, a light leesy moment
and lengthy finish. Balanced and well
made. Drink now and through 2021.
POINTS:89
Contact: www.seifried.co.nz
RRP $17.00
Ara Single Estate Pinot
7
Gris 2018 Marlborough
In an off-dry expression this wine will appeal
to many Gris fans. Aromas and flavours
of white fleshed orchard fruits with a light
citrus note - this is accentuated through the
texture and on the back palate. Some leesy
moemnts with a whisper of ginger spice and
white pepper. Overall a lovely wine ready to
enjoy today and through 2021.
POINTS: 88
Contact: www.arawines.co.nz
RRP $19.99
38 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019
WINE AND FOOD
Winner,
winner
JOSH EMETT’S TAKE ON COQ AU VIN IS EVEN MORE
DELICIOUS WHEN MADE WITH A GREAT WINE
COMPLEXITY: EASY | PREP TIME: 25 MINUTES, PLUS MARINATING OVERNIGHT
COOK TIME: 1 HOUR | SERVES: 4
CHICKEN IN WINE
COQ AU VIN
Ingredients
→ 8 chicken legs, skin on
→ 2 cups plus 1 1/4 tbsp (500 ml) red wine,
or just enough to cover the thighs
→ 2/3 cup plus 2 tsp (150 ml) port
→ rapeseed/canola oil for cooking
→ 9 oz (250 g) smoked bacon, diced
→ 10 baby onions, peeled and quartered
→ 9 oz (250 g) button mushrooms, halved
→ 5 whole cloves garlic
→ 2 cups plus 1 1/4 tbsp (500 ml) beef
stock (p. 484)
→ bunch of thyme handful of parsley,
to garnish
Method
Split the chicken into thighs and
drumsticks, place in a plastic container
and just cover with the red wine and port.
Cover and refrigerate overnight, but mix
a few times in the first few hours to ensure
that the chicken is properly coated.
Next day, pre-heat the oven to 320°F
(160°C).
Drain the chicken in a colander placed
over a bowl, reserving the liquid for later.
Pat the chicken dry with paper towels.
Heat some oil in a large ovenproof frying
pan over a medium heat,add the chicken,
in batches if necessary, and fry until golden
brown on all sides. Remove and set aside.
Add the bacon and onions to the same
pan and fry for about 10 minutes, until
golden, then add the mushrooms and
garlic and continue to fry until golden and
the moisture has gone, about 5 minutes.
Pour in the reserved wine and port, bring
to a light boil and reduce by half. Add the
chicken back in at this stage, then add
enough beef stock to cover. Bring back to
the boil, then skim the surface. Add the
thyme, and cover with a cartouche then a
lid. Bake in the oven for about 45 minutes.
Serve straight away, garnished with parsley,
or leave to cool and gently reheat when
ready to serve.
Cam’s
Wine
Match
If you’re not
prepared
to drink
and enjoy a large glass, don’t
put that wine in your food.
Using cheap wine in cooking
undervalues the dish and effort
taken to produce something
delicious. Always use a wine
you’d happily drink.
With natural sweetness of
chicken thigh browned and
baked, a light smoky
note from the bacon
and sweet earthy layers
from the onion, garlic
and mushroom, the
Kumeu River Hunting
Hill Pinot Noir 2017
is a great match for
Josh’s dish. It has
an earthy mineral
core with complex
oak flavours and
textures that
complement
the dish, ripe
and slightly tart
fruit flavours to
contrast. The
chicken and
parsley challenge
the wine’s tannins,
making this a delicious and
natural combination.
Josh Emett’s Chicken in Wine from The Recipe
by Josh Emett, image copyright © Kieran E.
Scott, design copyright © Blackwell and Ruth
Ltd, 2019.
WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 39
Getting
into the CRU
A MEETING OF MINDS WAS PRELUDE TO A GROUNDBREAKING
WINE PARTNERSHIP
In the wine world, the name
Steve Smith needs little
introduction. A Master of
Wine and viticulture specialist,
Steve was at the forefront of the
Craggy Range brand launch, and has
been part of their many successes
ever since. Fewer, however, will
know Brian Sheth, an American
entrepreneur and founder of the
market-leading investment firm Vista
Equity Partners.
Steve and Brian first met in 2012
at the exclusive Cape Kidnappers.
At an impromptu wine tasting,
the pair discussed the potential for
specific exports of fine New Zealand
wine to the US. They became firm
friends, bonding over passionate
conversations about wine, French
styles, the environment and the
future, sport and music. With so
much in common, and the fine wine
space opening up, the pair realised
there was an opportunity to be had.
In wine circles, many a spirited
discussion can be overheard about
fine wines, that inevitably lead to
comparisons in quality and style
of the great wines of the world.
Bordeaux (Cabernets & Merlot)
and Burgundy (Pinot Noir &
Chardonnay) are two such examples,
where comparisons with Oregon,
Tasmania or New Zealand are
typical. Steve and Brian recognised
that wines like Grand Cru and
Premier Cru – words inextricably
linked to famous French wines -
were simply becoming too expensive
in New Zealand; ‘new generation’
wine drinkers were ready to embrace
a series of new world classics.
“To deliver wines of exceptional
quality requires exceptional
vineyards; finding a cool climate with
the right soils to deliver outstanding
wines with varieties as popular as
Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Syrah and
the Cabernets was no easy task,” says
Steve. “It was paramount we found
the right sites to establish a sense of
place in any wines we produced.”
Steve and Brian share the same
environmental awareness and are
aware of the potential impacts
that climate change can have on
viticulture. “Finding sites that are
sheltered from the impacts of nature
are critical to fine wine growing and
production,” explains Steve.
Two years after he ended his
commitments with Craggy Range in
2015, Steve and his family flew to the
US to spend more time with Brian’s
family. Brian’s experience in the
financial sector, coupled with Steve’s
expertise in viticulture, winemaking
and vision was a perfect match, and
in 2016, two companies were formed
– Aotearoa New Zealand Fine Wine
Estates LP (AONZ), and the Smith &
Sheth Wine Company.
The partnership was done; now all
they needed was to find the perfect
location. In 2017 AONZ purchased
Pyramid Valley in North Canterbury;
and Lowburn Ferry in Central
Otago, and a small parcel of land in
the Gimblett Gravels appellation of
Hawke’s Bay. “The timing was just
right; the properties matched our
vision perfectly,” says Steve. “Our aim
from the beginning was to create
excellent wine, with a sustainable,
long-term goal.”
Who is the
team behind
AONZ?
The Smith & Sheth CRU
winemaking team includes Steve
Smith with help from Warren
Gibson and Caleb Dennis who
looks after the Gimblett Gravels
land. The Pyramid Valley wines are
made by Huw Kinch. Overseeing
the Manata Estate in Cromwell,
home to the Lowburn Ferry Home
Block Wine and the new Pyramid
Valley Central Otago Pinot Noirs
is Nick Paulin. Nick was shortlisted
in this year’s international ‘Future
50’ awards for young professionals
under 40 working in the food
and wine industry around the
globe. “We are so lucky to have
Nick,” says Steve. “He is deeply
passionate about viticulture and the
whole wine environment, especially
the organic and biodynamic
principles and practice.” All the
AONZ businesses are managed
by Michael Henley.
40 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019
BEHIND CLOSED DOORS
Cam
says...
In my opinion, (see wine notes
on page 62 & 64), Smith & Sheth
CRU wines from Hawke’s Bay are
serious, world-class fine wines,
comparable to any of their fine
wine counterparts in the northern
hemisphere. The Cantera 2016
Omahu is a particular favourite.
Smith & Sheth’s exclusive
Exchange
To bring all of these wine companies together, Steve
and Brian opened the Smith & Sheth Cellar Door
and Wine Lounge and the Heretaunga Studio in the
Courtyard of the Village Exchange in Havelock North.
The studio has a theatre, a lounge and a barrel cellar
experience all rolled into one, the idea being to make
it as interactive as possible. Only eight guests at a time
can participate in the experience. Sommelier Sonya
Eberly heads the wine experience team.
For more information on Smith & Sheth, visit
www.smithandsheth.com
Steve and Brian believe strongly
in New Zealand’s wine potential,
particularly in the cool limestone
slopes of the Waikari region in
North Canterbury, and on the
older, more weathered schist soils
of Central Otago. “We also believe
Sauvignon Blanc is one of the
world’s great varieties that deserves to
be recognised as a fine wine. It will
continue to be a major part of our
portfolio,” says Steve.
Smith & Sheth’s CRU, based in
Hawke’s Bay, currently has a portfolio
containing Albarino; three different
expressions of Chardonnay from
three separate sites; Cantera (a red
blend led by Cabernet); and two
Syrahs. An eighth wine, Sauvignon
Blanc, is sourced from specific
old vine parcels around Renwick
township and Sam and Mandy
Weavers biodynamic vineyard on
the hills above the
Waihopai Valley.
The recentlyopened
the Smith &
Sheth Oenotheque
and the Heretaunga
Studio in Havelock
North are a cellar
door, wine lounge and
tasting experience. The
Hereatunga Studio
takes up to 8 people,
while the Oenotheque-
Cellar Door and Wine
Lounge is open to
more people on a walk
up basis. W
WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 41
Fifty
Shades
OFRosé
If you lined up all the
rosé wines available
in New Zealand,
you’d see at least fifty
different colours. From
red to pink, onion skin
to salmon, all tints of rosé
are correct. There is no
guidebook on rosé colour,
although the trend recently
has been towards salmon or
pale apricot versions.
Rosé can be produced
from any red grape variety.
Pinot Noir is the most
popular in New Zealand,
but Merlot, Tempranillo,
Syrah, the Cabernets and
blends are also widely used.
If colour is your thing,
choosing a bottle of
rosé is easy. Price is not
particularly indicative of
quality; however, if taste,
texture and palate pleasure
is a more exciting option,
a little more back label
reading or wine review
check will be needed.
Rosé can be made very
dry to dry, with most New
Zealand styles often justdry.
What was once the
medium to sweet option
is all but gone. Rosé’s invogue
status has ushered in
a selection of more serious
options, growing the range
on offer, both at retail and
on wine lists.
Winemakers looking
to produce a more
serious expression of rosé
pay particular attention
towards aroma, complexity
and structure for
example - using natural
fermentation for a portion
or all of the juice. The use
of older oak adds structure,
even extended skin
contact for more tannin
and grip (the trade-off is
more red pigment, but
remember all rosé colour
is valid). Even capturing
a layer of minerality
makes for more serious
drinking options.
Wineries that
specifically produce red
wine have the option to
change the juice-to-skin
ratio, allowing winemakers
to produce a darker
coloured wine. To achieve
this they need to bleed
away some juice. This
process is called Saignée
- a French term meaning
to ‘bleed’. The juice that is
‘bled’ away after an initial
12 – 24 hours skin contact
is used to make rosé.
Another option is when
the intended outcome
uses 100% of the juice
available to make a rosé.
The particular shade of
rosé a producer ends
up making depends on
skin contact, exposure to
oxygen and the use of oak
or wine barrels.
A ROSÉ BY ANY OTHER COLOUR TASTES
JUST AS SWEET – OR, THESE DAYS, DRY
42 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019
TASTING NOTES ROSÉ
Johanneshof Cellars Maybern Single
1
Vineyard Rosé 2017 Marlborough
An intriguing, attractive bouquet with a mix of minerality,
light red fruits and complexity. Dry, fine and fruity on the
palate with a mix of flavours and textures from red pear
and red apple, some old strawberry, red tea, medium+
acidity and mineral notes. Lengthy finish; balanced and
well made.
POINTS: 93
Contact: www.johanneshof.co.nz
RRP $25.00
ME by Matahiwi Estate Rosé 2018
2
Wairarapa
Plush, fruity and refreshingly fragrant bouquet of rosé.
Cherry and raspberry, sweet plum and rose. Crisp, fruity,
refreshing and dry on the finish. Fruit flavours reflect the
nose, lovely acid line and lightweight bright finish. Lots to
like, easy to drink. Best from today and through 2020.
POINTS: 92
Contact: www.matahiwi.co.nz
RRP $19.99
Toi Toi Sara’s Rosé 2018 Marlborough
3
From a noticeable onion skin hued appearance
comes aromas of apple and red plum, a hint of starwberry,
rose and saffron. Dry on the palate with flavours that mirror
the nose, ultra fine fruit tannins and bright acid line show off
the texture and European style this wine is. Dry on the finish
with best drinking from today and through 2021.
POINTS: 92
Contact: www.toitoiwines.co.nz
RRP $14.99
More next page>>
1 2
3
WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 43
TASTING NOTES ROSÉ
new zealand
is for future
generations
92
PTS
Vidal Reserve Rosé 2018 Hawke's Bay
4
Plush, juicy, fruity and inviting bouquet of
Rosé - red berries, sweet red plum and pomegranate.
Fleshy, juicy and ripe on the palate with strawberry and
cherry fruit highlights, plenty of crisp and refreshing acidity
with a satin texture and lengthy finish. Easy to drink in a
just-dry style, ready to enjoy between now and late 2019.
POINTS: 91
Contact: www.vidal.co.nz
RRP $19.99
Selaks The Taste Collection Berries and
5
Cream Rosé 2019 Hawke's Bay
Fresh, ripe, lush and vobrant bouquet of light red berry fruits,
rosehip tea and sweet air (just before the rain). Crisp, dry and
fruity with flavours of cherry and red berry fruits, cold fruit
tea and gentle fruit spice moments. Balanced and well made.
Drink now and through 2020.
POINTS: 89
Contact: www.selaks.co.nz
RRP $21.99
Hello Sailor Pinot Noir Rosé 2017
6
Marlborough
Fleshy fruity bouquet with strawberry, peach quench and
‘Raro’ tropical fruit mix. A floral and peach side adding an
abundance of freshness and familiarity. Crisp, fruity and dry
with all the flavours described above. A great summer drinking
choice - not too bold, not too serious, just fun. Best from today
and through 2019.
POINTS: 87
Contact: www.hellosailorwine.co.nz
RRP $18.99
4 5
6
SAVE OUR RAREST BIRDS
Toi Toi has partnered with Forest & Bird to help
save rare native birds like the orange fronted
kākāriki. A donation goes to support their work
with every bottle sold from our range.
Visit toitoiwines.co.nz for T&Cs
NEW ZEALAND WINE
44 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019
ORGANICS
Organic
Matters
AS SUSTAINABLE PLANTING AND GROWING METHODS BECOME
MORE AVAILABLE, ORGANIC WINE IS STARTING TO FIND ITS
Vineyard organics is a
philosophy, a way of
thinking translated
into a system that
sustains the health of our
ecosystems, both above and below
ground, and the people who
maintain the land.
The Maori term ‘Toitu’
explains the philosophy of
organics well – that land should
be eternally sustainable. The goals
of organics include healthy vines,
healthy grapes and great wine.
The growth of New Zealand
organic viticulture has been
significant over the past 15 years.
Around 10 percent of New
Zealand wine producers currently
hold organic certification for their
vineyards, with many more using
organic farming practices without
seeking certification. The focus
for these systems comes from
the philosophy that a vineyard
can work in harmony with the
rhythms and processes of nature.
The term ‘organic’ is often
used in everyday food and
beverage language for advertising
the health benefits of the product
to which it is attached. Long
PLACE IN THE MARKET
before ‘interventionist’ wine
growing and making became
common, organic practices
were the norm. Interventionist
(‘modern’) systems have been
used, and still are, to control
weeds, crop size and winemaking
practices. While there is nothing
wrong with this approach if
carefully managed, it may include
the use of particular equipment,
herbicides and pesticides,
fertilisers and practices that don’t
protect the soil’s natural health
and balance.
Biodynamics takes the ideas of
organics deeper, with a focus on
understanding and managing the
vineyard as an holistic organism.
Biodynamic methods include the
use of special plant, animal and
mineral preparations which are
used for disease prevention, soil
nourishment and pest control.
An awareness of the need to
care for the future that has led
to an increasing number of New
Zealand producers incorporating
organic practices. It has also been
proven that there are other longterm
benefits and potential cost
savings to be made. W
Loveblock Sauvignon Blanc
1
2018 Marlborough
Very attractive bouquet of organic and vegan
Sauvignon Blanc with a core of fruit then a leeslike
spice layer as well as a hint of vanilla. Silky
texture on the palate with flavours of citrus and
gooseberry, some tropical fruits and persimmon.
A tangerine peel note and wild flowers. Plenty
of acidity and lengthy finish. What a lovely wine!
Drink now and through 2022.
POINTS: 95
Contact: www.loveblockwine.com
RRP $21.99
Villa Maria Platinum Selection
2
Organic Pinot Noir 2017
Marlborough
Ripe, light red fruit aromas deliver freshness and
ripeness on the nose. Suggestions of raspberry
and redcurrant, cherry and red apple. Gentle wood
spices emerge as it relaxes in glass, with a moderate
toasty signature. Dry on palate, with plenty of core
fruit. Youthful, fresh and vibrant, with vibrant fine
tannins, toasty wood and brown spices, gently
warming alcohol and fruit-led finish. Balanced; lots
to like. Drink now and through 2024.
POINTS: 92
Contact: www.villamariawines..com
RRP $29.99
Loveblock Pinot Gris 2018
3
Marlborough
Enticing Gris; fleshy and juicy white peach, pear
and yellow apple aromas in this organic vegan
wine. Noticeable white pepper and light lees layer,
suggesting ginger and barley sugar. Just dry on the
palate, with flavours reflecting the nose, bright white
spice note returns. Drink now and through 2020.
POINTS: 89
Contact: www.loveblockwine.com
RRP $21.99
1 2 3
WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 45
Label
Language
WHETHER YOU BUY YOUR WINE ONLINE, A LOCAL LIQUOR
OUTLET OR SPECIALIST WINE STORE, YOUR PURCHASE
DECISIONS ARE ALWAYS - OR AT LEAST - MADE PARTLY ON TRUST.
CAMERON UNCOVERS SOME OF THE SECRETS BEHIND THE
MEANING OF WINE LABELS
I’m often asked to decode or
explain wine label language
- from grape variety and
pronunciation, to back
label wording and the meaning
behind stickers.
All wine sold in New Zealand,
including imported wine, must
follow the labelling and composition
rules and requirements of the Food
Standards Australia New Zealand
(FSANZ) code.
If a wine label announces a
grape variety or varieties, a vintage
or region of origin statement
(for example, Chardonnay 2018
Marlborough), this means 85% of the
variety, vintage and geography must
be as stated. Producers can vary the
other 15% - perhaps including the
use of other varieties, regions and
vintages to complete aroma, palate
feel and balance – though most
wines are 100% as stated.
ADDITIVES
Most, if not all, wine is clear, with no
haze or unusual-looking suspended
matter. During vinification, most
winemakers use a substance to
assist in making a wine clear and
consumer ready.
A growing number of people
now react to additives in food and
beverage products, and many make
lifestyle choices around animal
products. Reactions to additives in
wine are actually extremely rare
(current research supports this).
• Fish products, typically isinglass,
may be used to remove tannins,
making wine feel softer and
more balanced.
• Egg white, or albumen may
also be used for the same effect,
removing tannin, particularly in
red wine.
• Milk and milk products are used
to remove compounds associated
with bitterness and browning.
“Preservative 220’ is
a common term for the
use of sulphites”
According to the New Zealand
MPI (Ministry for Primary
Industries), a wine label must include
an allergen declaration, if milk, egg
and fish (except isinglass, which is
not an allergan) are present.
All wine is decanted off any
sediments before bottling so any
trace amounts are extremely low.
If a label states ‘bottled unfined’
this will indicate that a wine has not
been subject to any of the processes
listed above, keeping the texture of
the wine as the winemaker intended.
As a taster you may notice more
complexity and texture.
Many wines are passed through a
filter or membrane before bottling,
rendering it clear. The winemaker
may choose not to filter the
wine, to keep a particular texture
and complexity.
Additives like sulphites are used as
part of the bottling process for wine,
and trace amounts may remain in
the wine. A label may say ‘Contains
sulphites’ (very common, but used in
extremely tiny amounts). Sulphites
and sulphur are natural elements,
modified to be used as liquid or gas
to stave off or neutralise bacteria,
and slow the effects of oxygen on
wine. If preservatives are used (usual
practice) then this must be declared
on the label.
VEGAN AND ORGANIC
Vegan wines are increasingly popular.
This means there are no animalbased
agents like milk, fish or gelatin
used in the winemaking, stabilisation
or filtering process. I am frequently
asked about the status of sulphites –
they are 100% vegan.
‘Organic’ or ‘biodynamic’ refers
to philosophies around grape-
46 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019
INSIDE VOICES
growing and winemaking. No
chemical pesticides, herbicides and
manufactured fertilisers are used
in or around the vineyard and
winery, nor are artificial additives,
making these wines a good choice
for wine drinkers sensitive to
particular compounds. Biodynamic
wineries follow the lunar calendar,
apply particular tea preparations,
homemade compost and other plant
life to enhance soil health, and for
weed control and vine growth.
The organic movement in New
Zealand is significant enough that
increasing numbers of producers
practice. Some wonderful examples
pass through my tasting table (see
page 45).
FINE WINES OF NEW
ZEALAND
Some of the best wines in New
Zealand are regularly rated by wellknown
critics, or through wine
competition events (though there
are select wineries who don’t enter,
for many reasons including supersmall
production or already sold
out production). The most recent
addition to the review process here
has been the Fine Wines of New
Zealand programme, of which I am
a proud member (see marked bottles
in my Tasting Notes). This Air New
Zealand-supported programme
is available to producers of wine
in New Zealand. It is not a wine
competition, but an opportunity to
showcase current release wines to a
team of local Masters of Wine and a
Master Sommelier (yours truly).
If the wines meet the rigid
standards, samples of older vintages
are also reviewed to demonstrate
potential longevity and style
consistency. There are no gold
stickers – rather a recognition
of prestige and confirmation
from some experienced and
knowledgeable palates that the
wine represents the best from New
Zealand, making it an excellent
purchase decision. W
Scores & Stickers
There are a plethora of brightlycoloured
award stickers. In the
very competitive world of wine
any recognition of quality a
producer receives can become very
important, so it pays to be aware of
the meaning and significance (or
otherwise) of these accolades.
Some wine lovers will talk to their
friends or a trusted sommelier,
some to wine store hosts - others
regularly read wine reviews and
scores to assist in their decisions.
Displaying scores and accolades
by way of stickers on the bottle
can unquestionably be a successful
marketing tool - those gold, silver or
bronze decals draw attention, and a
high score or critic review can be a
recipe for successful sales.
But. What do all these scores,
stickers and reviews mean for you?
Wine scoring originated in wine
competitions to allow a group of
judges to recognise quality wine
by using a relative scale. Many
wine writers and critics adopted
the strategy for their own reviews –
these days I, like many others, use
the one hundred point scale (see
page 7), though some use the 20
Point, or *star* awards. An 88/100
score generally equals a very nice
wine, equivalent to a bronze in a
wine show. On the same scale,
95/100 equals an excellent wine –
which will translate to a gold sticker if
that is offered (silver sits between).
The Star system is also recognised
by consumers. It’s an easy-to-follow,
simple for consumers to understand
system (for example, 3.5 Stars would
be a recommended wine and 5 Stars
an excellent example).
Some wine producers choose to
display layers of stickers, or worse
- make labels littered with stickers
in the design. I am not a fan of
this approach.
Take care to read stickers – while
some represent a genuine review
from a recognised critic, wine
competition, or reputable magazine
panel, others may simply refer to an
award the winery has received.
WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 47
SPARKLING WINES
Modern
Methodes
Unwrapping
the foil, six half
twists of the wire,
hold the cork
and turn the bottle; the pressure
builds and then…. a gentle sigh
(or pop!) as the pressure equalises
with the outside world. You’ve
just opened a bottle of happiness -
sparkling wine.
For many of us, sparkling wine is the
wine of celebration, to toast an occasion
or to gift to a special person. Whatever the
reason for buying bubbles, we are spoiled for
choice when it comes to producers and price.
Great sparkling shows elegance, finesse, poise
and tension, white fleshed fruits and citrus, a fine
mousse texture with a gazillion bubbles and a long
complex finish.
The best New Zealand sparkling wines are produced
using the Methode Traditionnelle process. Only the French
region of Champagne can use the term Champagne and
the Methode Champenoise process. New Zealand bottled
fermented sparkling wines use the Methode Traditionnelle
process – which is exactly the same as the French. Typically
made from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in New Zealand, base
wines are blended then refermented in bottle, aged on yeast lees
for 12 to 48 months (or longer) then disgorgement of yeast - the
process of removing the spent yeast from the bottle after the
ageing process is complete. Style created (Brut Nature, Brut or
Demi-Sec are common), the cork is wired down, then it’s label
on, and off to market. W
Cameron’s
Top Tipples
These are my top fifteen.
• NO1 Family Estate Reserve
Blanc de Blancs NV
• Quartz Reef Blanc de
Blancs 2013
• Nautilus Marlborough Cuvée Brut NV
• Cloudy Bay Pelorus Rosé NV
• Deutz Blanc de Blancs 2015
• Tohu Rewa Rosé 2015
• Aotea Methode Traditionnelle NV
• Hunter's MiruMiru Reserve 2015
• Akarua Brut 2015
• Akarua Rosé Brut NV
• NO1 Family Estate Cuvée Adele 2013
• NO1 Family Estate Cuvée Remy 2013
• Quartz Reef Rosé NV
• Palliser Estate The Griffin 2015
48 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019
I
n 1971 our father Hermann arrived in New Zealand with a dream
of making great wines. He and our mother Agnes, pioneered
modern winemaking in the Nelson region, planting the first vines and
in 1976 producing their first wines. Now over 40 years later we celebrate
their vision, and the arrival of the next generation, our children, who are
growing up in the vineyard and winery. Our family, and very dedicated
team are proud to craft internationally renowned wines in this very special
corner of the world. Wines made for sharing.
NELSON MÉTHODE TRADITIONNELLE NV
AWARDED
Champion Sparkling Wine
Gold Medal
Air New Zealand Wine Awards 2017
“Exquisitely expressed and supremely elegant with white
stone-fruit, lemon bread and yeasty characters, wonderfully
enhanced by fine texture and zesty acidity.”
Judges Comments, Air NZ Wine Awards 2017
www.seifried.co.nz
@seifriedestate
TASTING NOTES BUBBLES
Akarua Rosé Brut Non
1
Vintage Marlborough
A beautiful bouquet of rosé with
aromas of crushed strawberry, red
cherry and red apple. A core of
autolysis suggests biscuit and bread
with a soft ginger spice moment. Dry,
explosive mousse, packed with red fruit
and peach flavours, some mandarin
peel and yeasty messages. High acidity,
crisp, dry, lengthy, balanced and well
made. Lots to love. Drink now and
through 2026.
POINTS: 95
Contact: www.akarua.com
RRP $38.00
Nautilus Cuvée
2
Brut Non-Vintage
Marlborough
Complex and enticing bouquet with a
light savoury core surrounded by aromas
and flavours white peach, an array of
citrus and strawberry. Dry, silky, fleshy,
fruity, savoury and complex. Very fine
mousse with high acidity, a soft brioche
and yeasty layer, balanced lengthy finish.
Drink now and through 2026.
POINTS: 95
Contact: www.nautilusestate.com
RRP $44.95
Hunter's MiruMiruTM
3
Reserve 2015
Marlborough
A bouquet of a wine that is ready to
enjoy. Integrated aromas of peach and
apple, a nutty autolysis and minerality.
Bold and expressive mousse on the palate
carrying and emphasising flavours of
baked stone-fruits, strawberry, apple and
a biscuity brioche warmth. Abundant
acidity and concentration ensures this
wine will continue to age for the next few
years. Drink now and through 2024.
POINTS: 92
Contact: www.hunters.co.nz
RRP $38.90
Palliser Estate The Griffin
4
2015 Martinborough
Complex bouquet of sparkling wine
centering on a brioche and biscuity
autolysis followed by scents of white
strawberry, citrus and white flowers.
Dry, weighty, fruity and very tasty
on the palate. Flavours reflect the
nose with a white fleshed fruits core,
a delicate mineral layer, refreshingly
crisp mousse and precise lengthy finish.
Apertif style, great with food. Drink
now and through 2025.
POINTS: 91
Contact: www.palliser.co.nz
RRP $53.00
5 Hunter's MiruMiruTM Non
Vintage Marlborough
Lovely bouquet with a fruity, leesy
attack, some spice and balanced
bottled development complexity. Crisp
and dry with a lemon and crunchy
apple flavours, a soft yeasty quality
and fine mousse. Balanced and well
made. A wine to please many who like
bubbles. Drink now and through 2022.
POINTS: 91
Contact: www.hunters.co.nz
RRP $28.90
Pask Declaration
6
Methode Traditionnelle
2010 Hawke’s Bay
A bold and rich bouquet packed with
a nutty, yeasty and yellow stone-fruits.
Dry, firm and crisp on the palate with
flavours of lemon, apple and custard
brioche. Quite weighty and fullbodied
richness. With some bottle
development and nutty spice layers,
a wine with some complexity and
intrigue. Drink now and through 2022.
POINTS: 90
Contact: www.pask.co.nz
RRP $30.00
1 2 3 4 5 6
50 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019
A Giesen Wine For All Occasions.
CONTACT YOUR GIESEN GROUP REPRESENTATIVE OR PHONE 03 344 6270
Aromatically
Speaking
All wines have aroma, a
signature set of smells
that define the variety or
blend of varieties used.
Winemaking techniques such as the use
of oak or extra time spent on lees post
ferment contribute to the final package
of smells referred to as ‘aroma’.
The term ‘aromatic’ refers to a
specific category of white grape
varieties which contain an extra set of
naturally-occurring compounds called
‘terpenes’. Terpenes enhance, even
amplify the spice, fruit and floral scents
of wine. This makes them particularly
distinctive. Terpenes emerge in certain
varieties to a greater or lesser degree
based on growing conditions such as
soil, climate and viticulture practices.
The following wines are all classified
as aromatic or semi-aromatic and are
readily available in New Zealand:
Wurzer, Gewürztraminer, Muscat,
Torrontes, Albarino, Riesling, Muller
Thurgau and Pinot Gris. These wines
are floral, fruity and can be quite
intense on both the nose and palate
with moderate acidity. Textures ranges
from soft and creamy to satin or silky
and crisp.
Gewürztraminer is the most intense
and exotic of the aromatic varieties
with flavours of tropical fruits, roses
and spices. Descriptors such as lavender,
talcum powder, pineapple, white pepper
and even apple strudel have been used
to describe the wine.
If you’re a whiz in the kitchen and
keen on food to serve with aromatic
wines, look to lush, creamy dishes. Paté,
tofu or cream of pumpkin soup work
deliciously well, while wet textured
proteins such as pork or sous-vide
chicken and turkey are an excellent
match. Asian cuisine is a common
pairing with aromatic varieties, but be
careful to stick to fragrant spiced menu
items, like lemongrass and galangal.
Heat spices in Asian dishes in general
inflame the spice and alcohol in the
wine, rendering the pairings impossible.
Wines that have a noticeable residual
sweetness such as an off-dry Riesling
often work well with spicy dishes. W
52 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019
TASTING NOTES AROMATICS
Pegasus Bay Bel Canto
1
Riesling 2017 North
Canterbury
Complex and vibrant bouquet of
Riesling with aromas then flavours of
lemon flesh, pith & zest, green and red
apple with a pungent honeysuckle,
mandarin and limeflower core. Pristine
acid line, great weight and texture,
youthful with a long complex finish.
Best from 2021 through 2031.
POINTS: 95
Contact: www.pegasusbay.com
RRP $37.00
Churton Petit Manseng
2
2016 Marlborough
Very specific bouquet; exotic, individual
and captivating. Quince, baked pineapple
and candied fruits. Floral, fresh, youthful
and complex. Delicious on the palate
with an electric acidity, plush and exotic
flavours, quite sweet, but well balanced,
lengthy persistent finish. Lots of
sweetness to enjoy; great with a rhubarb
clafoutis. Drink now and through 2024.
POINTS: 95
Contact: www.churton-wines.co.nz
RRP $43.99
3 Johanneshof
Gewürztraminer 2018
Marlborough
Fragrant and complex, subtle and layered,
fruity and varietal. A well defined and
fine example of this variety with layers of
tree and tropical fruits, roses, elderflower,
spices and gentle creamy texture. A
delicious wine with a core of minerality,
some white pepper-laced pear, quince
and apple, honeysuckle and rose. Elegant
and ready. Drink now and through 2022.
POINTS: 94
Contact: www.johanneshof.co.nz
RRP $35.00
Askerne Reserve
4
Gewürztraminer 2018
Hawke’s Bay
A complex and interesting bouquet,
with aromas of dried herbs and spices,
then baked pineapple, pear and
apple. Dry on the palate, with a dried
herb-led package of flavours, lemon
and apple, tropical fruits and flowers,
complex. Fairly lengthy finish, nicely
balanced and well made. Drink now
and through 2021.
POINTS: 93
Contact: www.askernewines.co.nz
RRP $29.90
5 Loveblock
Gewürztraminer 2018
Marlborough
Fragrant, floral, fruity, spicy and very
attractive bouquet of this vegan
Gewürztraminer. Flavours of whitefleshed
fruits, rice pudding, white
flowers and baking spices, a soft
herbaceous layer and white stone
mineral core. Weighty and creamy,
lengthy and delicious. Perfect wine
for Peking Duck. Drink now and
through 2023.
POINTS: 93
Contact: www.loveblockwine.com
RRP $21.99
Giesen Gemstone
6
Riesling 2018
Marlborough
Totally enticing aromas of Riesling,
with mandarin and lime flower, apple
and lemon. Off-dry, with a noticeable
residual sweetness, refreshing acidity,
a light creamy texture and flavours
that reflect the nose. Drink now and
through 2025.
POINTS: 92
Contact: www.giesenwines.co.nz
RRP $18.99
More next page>>
1 2 3 4 5 6
WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 53
TASTING NOTES AROMATICS
Tohu Whenua Matua
7
Single Vineyard Albariño
2017 Upper Moutere, Nelson
An immediate appeal on the nose;
exotic aromas of fruit tree blossom
and peach, orange piko tea, apple and
lemon curd. Exotic too on the palate -
honesuckle and fruit spice, peach then
lemon, orange piko tea and ginger spice
with lees complexity. Nice weight with
a core of fruit and contrasting acidity. A
seamless transition on the palate from
stonefruit to citrus and a lengthy finish.
Drink now and through 2022.
POINTS: 92
www.tohuwines.co.nz/whenuaseries
RRP $29.99
Old Coach Road Riesling
8
2017 Nelson
Aromas and flavours of ripe sweet citrus
and apricot stone. A simple yet fragrant
wine with fresh crunchy textures from
high acidity and wet stone minerality.
Refreshing, just dry, loads of flavour with
white peach, a touch of green tea and
lemon. Ideal as an aperitif or with simple
appetisers such as oysters and mussels.
Drink now and through 2022.
POINTS: 91
Contact: www.seifried.co.nz
RRP $13.00
Palliser Estate Riesling
9
2018 Wairarapa
A really lovely bouquet of Riesling with
aromas and flavours of white rose and
lemon, crunchy apple with a leaning
towards Granny Smith, white apricot, wet
stone and soft silty mineral undertone.
Plenty of acidity, crisp, refreshing
and dry on the finish. Drink now and
through 2024.
POINTS: 91
Contact: www.palliser.co.nz
RRP $25.00
Yealands Estate Single
10
Estate Gewürztraminer
2018 Awatere Valley
Very fragrant, floral, fruity varietal, with
aromas of honeysuckle and white peach,
roses and sweet lychee, pears and apples
and loads of spice. Really nice silky
texture on the palate with flavours that
match the nose, medium acidity and a
lengthy calm finish, always returning to
the spice layer. Balanced and well made.
Drink now and through 2022.
POINTS: 91
Contact: www.yealands.co.nz
RRP $25.00
Yealands Estate Single
11
Vineyard Riesling 2018
Awatere Valley
Floral, precise and fruity bouquet with
aromas and flavours of lemon and
white peach, ripe green apple and rose.
Crisp and dry, lightweight on the palate
and refreshingly lengthy finish. A lovely
aperitif option and great with delicate
seafoods or summer salads. Drink now
and through 2026.
POINTS: 90
Contact: www.yealands.co.nz
RRP $25.00
Loveblock Riesling 2014
12
Marlborough
Varietal, fruity and floral with aromas
of green apple, lemon and jasmine.
Off-dry on the palate with a noticeable
sweetness and flavours that mirror ther
nose. Very youthful with a nervous
tension from the acidity contrasted
by lemon and apple flavours. Decent
length and finish. Best to wait a year or
two before exploring this wine again -
2021 through 2026 should be best.
POINTS: 88
Contact: www.loveblockwine.com
RRP $21.99
7 8 9 10 11 12
54 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019
RED WINES
I see
red!
SELECTING THE APPROPRIATE RED WINE FOR AN OCCASION OR
MEMORABLE MOMENT IS VERY PERSONAL, DEPENDING ON YOUR
PARTICULAR STYLE OR TASTE. DO SOME HOMEWORK TO HELP YOU
DISCOVER SOMETHING DIFFERENT - YOU WON'T REGRET IT
When it comes to
diversity and quality,
our NZ red wines
are pretty impressive.
Pinot Noir is a good example. It has
a wonderful way of reflecting the site
where it is grown or a thread of flavour
that the producer likes to harness. The
use of whole-bunch (as opposed to
de-stemmed) fruit as a percentage of
the finished wine is quite common.
So too is the use of oak and how long
the wine matures for in barrel, which
impacts heavily on the final taste. Less
preservative at bottling, un-fined and
unfiltered are two more influences of
texture and taste. All these ideas speak
to the style, flavour and expression
that a producer is trying to convey.
Two example Pinots Noir that will
allow your adventurous side to take
charge are Grasshopper Rock and
Lowburn Ferry.
Syrah is the jewel in the vinous
crown of New Zealand. The variety
has been part of our wine scene for
some time, but has lived somewhat
in the shadow of Pinot Noir and
Cabernet. Not anymore. Northland,
Waiheke Island, Gisborne, Hawke's
Bay, Wairarapa and Marlborough all
have excellent examples to consider.
The aroma and taste profile of Syrah is
somewhat particular though with black
currant and spices, raspberry and aged
meats, pepper, violets, bold tannins and
a backbone of acidity. An excellent food
wine for sure. Two must try examples
include Villa Maria’s Reserve and
Te Mata Estate Bullnose. W
WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 55
Pinosity
OF ALL NEW ZEALAND WINES, PINOT NOIR IS ARGUABLY
THE MOST FAMOUS, AND DIVERSE, OF THEM ALL
Pinot Noir really is
‘Romance in a Glass’.
Sommeliers and
wine professionals,
collectors of fine wine and
even beginners to wine
appreciation fall in love with
Pinot Noir time and time
again. The are many reasons
why, but most of them centre
on the beguiling and seductive
scents Pinot Noir can reveal.
Cherry, strawberry and
raspberry flavours of every
kind, colour and ripeness,
to organic and inorganic
minerality, mushroom, truffle,
and baking spices. Fine to
chalky tannins, layers of oak
and subtle wood smoke all
play their part in creating the
synergy and tease that can
make Pinot so enticing.
Pinot Noir takes time to
get used to. Some examples,
often the best ones, are led by
stubborn tannins, outspoken
acidity, whole-bunch and a
savoury attack - to the point
that the core of pure fruit can
be missed. Pinot Noir is often
not drinkable upon release,
because the tannins and acidity
overpower the finer textures
and harmonies that come from
bottle age and integration.
Ultimately, finding Pinots Noir
that are drinkable soon, versus
those requiring cellar time,
will take both a budget - and
patience - to taste through the
range available. A few shortcuts
can be made by reading wine
notes and reviews of wine
commentators that you trust. W
WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 57
TASTING NOTES PINOT NOIR
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
Akarua The Siren Pinot
1
Noir 2016 Central Otago
Varietal, youthful, specific and captivating
bouquet with voices of place and fruit, a
steely raw energy, very specific barrel use
with spice white smoke qualities. There's a
‘je ne sais quoi’ attribute as well - a certain
synergy of floral and mineral. A core of fruit
and sweet oak flavours on the palate; spices,
flowers and harmony. Long finish, complex
and excellent. Best window for drinking
2020 through 2030.
POINTS: 97
Contact: www.akarua.com
RRP $110.00
Ostler Caroline's Pinot Noir
2
2016 Waitaki Valley
Complex, attractive and layered bouquet.
Mineral then fruit, wood smoke and dark
spices. Fantastic on the palate with a core of
dark cherry and plum, oak spices and a core
of minerality. Very floral, dried herbs and
tea. Chalky tannins, vibrant youthful texture,
long finish. A fantastic wine. Best from 2022
through 2030+.
POINTS: 97
Contact: www.ostlerwine.co.nz
RRP $65.00
Quartz Reef Pinot Noir
3
2017 Central Otago
Complex, youthful core of fruit and wood
spices. Layers of dried herb and exotic tea.
Dry and equally complex on the palate with
flavours that mirror the nose, plus many more
emerging and evolving as the wine opens up in
the glass. Firm youthful tannins and acidity to
match, a core of fruit and minerality suggesting
crushed rocks. Dried herb, layers of wood
spice, lengthy finish, youthful and dry. Best
from 2022 through 2032.
POINTS: 96
Contact: www.quartzreef.co.nz
RRP $$65.00
Domain Road Defiance
4
Pinot Noir 2016 Central
Otago
A complex bouquet, with ripe dark berries
and baking spices, a core of dark cherry,
baked raspberry, clove and vanilla, smoked
wood and violet. Equally complex on the
palate with flavours that mirror the nose. The
core of red berry fruit flavours underpins
layers of texture from firm youthful tannins
and acidity, new oak and flavour synergies
that can only come from excellent fruit and
proper winemaking. Complex lengthy finish.
Drink from 2020 through 2030+.
POINTS: 96
Contact: www.domainroad.co.nz
RRP $65.00
Villa Maria Single Vineyard
5
Taylors Pass Pinot Noir 2013
Marlborough
Fantastic complex and engaging bouquet of
Pinot Noir, with flavours of wild red berries
of the forest, savoury baking and wood
spices and a deep engaging complexity.
Dry, savoury detailed and delicious with a
core of fruit and appealing texture from fine
abundant tannins and plenty of acidity. Long
complex finish. Best from 2019 through 2029.
POINTS: 96
Contact: www.villamariawines.com
RRP $59.99
Tohu Whenua Awa Single
6
Vineyard Pinot Noir 2017
Awatere Valley Marlborough
Smoky with a core of red fruits, baking
spices, dark cherry, raspberry and plum,
then rose and red zinger tea. Dry on the
palate with a core of fruit, exotic red tea,
firm chalky tannins and plenty of acidity.
The oak and smoky wood suggestions layer
in on the finish, highlighting a dried herb
and stony mineral suggestion. Well made,
complex and lengthy. Cellar time needed
to complete the integration of flavours and
textures.
POINTS: 96
Contact: www.tohuwines.co.nz/
whenuaseries
RRP $41.99
7
China Girl by Crown Range
Cellar Pinot Noir Pinot Noir
2016 Central Otago
Complex bouquet of Pinot Noir with exotic
barrel spices, a Central Otago core of
raspberry and dark red cherry fruits, smoky
French oak and soft wild thyme. Equally
complex and intense on the palate with
textures of chalky tannins and medium+
acidity, crushed schist and flinty mineral
earthy qualities then a core of red berry
fruits. Varietal, youthful, tense and poised for
cellar ageing. Balanced and well made. Best
drinking from 2021 through 2028.
POINTS: 95
Contact: www.crownrangecellar.com
RRP $69.99
More next page>>
58 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019
Discover perfection within
www.nautilusestate.com
Drink responsibly
WINE AND FOOD
Warm in
Winter
A GOOD MULLED WINE
REQUIRES A FRUITY FLAVOUR
BASE FIRST AND FOREMOST
MULLED WINE
Ingredients
→ 1 bottle Selaks Reserve Merlot
Cabernet
→ 1 orange, peeled (reserve zest) and
thinly sliced
→ 3-4 slices thinly-cut lemon, peeled
(reserve zest)
→ 1 cinnamon stick
→ 8 cloves
→ 2 star anise
→ 3 cardamom pods, lightly crushed
to release scent
→ 1 bay leaf
→ 2 tablespoons brown sugar (more if
you like it sweet)
Method
Preheat oven to 120°. Spread
orange and lemon zests evenly on
a lined baking tray and bake gently
for 30 minutes. Meanwhile, pour
Selaks Reserve Merlot Cabernet
into a saucepan. Add the orange
slices, cinnamon, cloves, star anise,
cardamom and bay leaf. Heat until
warm and barely simmering, do
not boil.
Simmer wine for at least 30 minutes,
longer is fine. Add the brown sugar,
stir to dissolve and then taste. Strain
to remove spices and serve with
baked zests to garnish.
Cam’s Wine Match
A recipe for great mulled wine requires a decent
wine base on which to build a seductive aroma and
flavour base. The Selaks Reserve Merlot Cabernet
steps up nicely, with a core of dark berry and plum
fruit flavours to contrast the recipes aromatic
spices. The wine’s back bone of acidity and fine
tannins add additional tactile elements for a decent winter imbibe.
60 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019
TASTING NOTES PINOT NOIR
Domain Road Paradise
8
Pinot Noir 2015 Central
Otago
Complex bouquet of Pinot Noir with
strawberry and red cherry, plum, old rose,
dried herb, thyme and brown spices,
combined with some bottle age. Equally
complex on the palate, with layers of
flavours and textures from roses and plums
to cherry and rose, tea and brown spices.
Fine tannins, abundant and chalky. Medium
acidity, plenty of oak, balanced and well
made with a long finish. Drink now and
through 2025.
POINTS: 95
Contact: www.domainroad.co.nz
RRP $85.00
Greystone Vineyard
9
Fermented Pinot Noir 2017
North Canterbury
Complex and interesting bouquet. Aromas
of old rose and tea, sweet cherry and old
orchard apple, hints of leather and spice,
loaded with clay and limestone-like mineral
voices and just a little bit sexy. Dry, firm,
youthful, textured and packed with charm
and a little mystery. Chalky tannins, plenty
of acidity, lengthy persistent finish. Very nice
wine. Drink now and through 2025.
POINTS: 95
Contact: www.greystonewines.co.nz
RRP $75.00
Holly Matahiwi Pinot Noir
10
2018 Wairarapa
Lovely bouquet with a smoky, darker berry
bouquet, dark cherry and strawberry,
clove and vanilla wood spices. Complex.
Very youthful and dry on the palate with
flavours that mirror the nose. Plenty of
texture from fruit and wood tannins and
flavours from the oak of smoke and brown
baking spices. Nice finish. Youthful. Ready
in a year or two. Decant if drinking before
2022. Best from then and until 2028.
POINTS: 94
Contact: www.matahiwi.co.nz
RRP $39.99
Kumeu River Hunting Hill
11
Pinot Noir 2017 Auckland
One of the few Pinots Noir produced in
Auckland, this wine has an old-world feel
about it, with an earthy mineral core, red
cherry and cranberry with a strawberry
moment and complex oak flavours. The
texture is vibrant and youthful, with fine
to moderate tannins reflective of both
fruit and oak, balanced acid line and long
finish. The complexity builds as the wine
opens up in glass. A wine to savour and
enjoy now and through 2025.
POINTS: 95
Contact: www.kumeuriver.co.nz
RRP $50.00
Palliser Estate Pinot Noir
12
2018 Martinborough
Reflecting its origins, the bouquet shows
off a core of minerality then fresh red
berry fruit aromas, cherry and strawberry.
Fine chalky tannins, ripe and refreshing
acidity, no mistaking the use of oak, but
well placed. Lengthy mineral based finish.
Drink now and through 2026.
POINTS: 94
Contact: www.palliser.co.nz
RRP $59.00
Pegasus Prima Donna
13
Pinot Noir 2015 North
Canterbury
Beguiling and attractive bouquet with
alluring scents of new season raspberry,
plum compote and wild berries. Very
youthful, raw and new with an oak-centric
layer on the palate, contrasting fruit,
tannins need time to integrate, plenty of
acidity. A wine that needs a peaceful rest
in your cellar still, with best drinking 2021
through 2027+.
POINTS: 95
Contact: www.pegasusbay.co.nz
RRP $95.00
Pyramid Valley Angel
14
Flower Pinot Noir 2016
North Canterbury
Flowers, brown spices, earth and mineral
moments, tea and pressed roses - the
very nature of the bouquet is one of
complexity and intrigue. On the palate:
complex, dry, savoury and earthy. Flavours
reflect the bouquet, texture is something
different - more savoury and intense
with dried herb and fine tannins, a natural
level of acidity and complexity. Long and
intriguing finish. Well made, youthful and
natural. Drink now and through 2026+.
POINTS: 95
Contact: www.pyramidvalley.co.nz
RRP $125.00
More next page>>
8
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12
13
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WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 61
TASTING NOTES PINOT NOIR
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
Tohu Whenua Matua Single
15
Vineyard Pinot Noir Upper
Moutere Nelson
A pinosity-packed bouquet; aromas of red apple
and rose, tea and red cherry. Clove and vanilla
spices are intense, with a French oaky toasty wood
complexity. Delicious on the palate; quite dry with
firm tannins and plenty of acidity; a core of fruits
and oak, with some minerality layer. Youthful,
medium weight and complex. Decant for service;
best drinking late 2021 through 2027.
POINTS: 95
Contact: www.tohuwines.co.nz/whenuaseries
RRP $34.99
Villa Maria Single Vineyard
16
The Attorney Pinot Noir 2015
Marlborough
Bright, fresh, sophisticated and youthful, with aromas
of dark cherry, red apple and plum, some vanilla
and lighter clove brown spice notes, complex and
engaging. Dry, firm and youthful. Flavours reflect
the nose, enhanced by elegant-yet-firm tannins
and medium+ acidity. Youthful, needing some
cellar time. Decant for service. Best from late 2019
through 2026.
POINTS: 95
Contact: www.villamariawines.com
RRP $69.99
Akitu A1 Pinot Noir 2016
17
Central Otago
A richly-scented bouquet of Pinot Noir with aromas
of dark berries, wood spices, wild thyme and a
core of savoury complexity. Plum and dark cherry,
blackcurrant and wildflowers, stony, rocky outcrop
minerality. Youthful, tense, firm and focused textures
on the palate with flavours that reflect the nose -
dark berries then wood spices, some wild thyme and
undergrowth moments. Youthful tannins and acid
line. Lengthy finish, dry, well made, youthful. Best
from 2021 through 2029.
POINTS: 94
Contact: www.akitu.wine
RRP $60.00
Akitu A2 Central Otago 2017
18
Central Otago
Youthfully vibrant and fruity bouquet, with aromas
of raspberries, dark cherries, red apple and savoury
mineral combinations. Some spicy oak suggestions
add complexity. Equally vibrant on the palate with
flavours which mirror the nose, abundant fruit and
oak tannins. Acidity and oak add additional texture.
A wine to enjoy today if decanted, otherwise best
from 2020 through 2026.
POINTS: 94
Contact: www.akitu.wine
RRP $45.00
Auntsfield Single Vineyard
19
Pinot Noir 2017 Marlborough
Rich and vibrant colour with aromas and flavours
of plums, dark cherries and oak to match the
power of the bouquet and colour. Dry, with
abundant core of fruit with fruit & oak tannins,
plenty of acidity and long finish. A powerful,
rich and complex example. Best from 2020
through 2030.
POINTS: 94
Contact: www.auntsfield.co.nz
RRP $45.00
Domain Road Single Vineyard
20
Pinot Noir 2017 Central Otago
Lovely Pinot Noir bouquet; aromas of dark red
berries, violets and roses; baking spices, dried
herb and dry stone minerality. Quite complex but
youthful. Nice on the palate with a mix of wild red
fruits, tart dark cherry and dried raspberry. Firm,
youthful tannins, abundant acidity and core of
fruit; perfect for longevity. Noticeable oak and
spice layers, well made and a lengthy finish. Best
from 2021 through 2029.
POINTS: 94
Contact: www.domainroad.co.nz
RRP $40.00
Pyramid Valley Earth Smoke
21
Pinot Noir 2016 New Zealand
A distinctive bouquet: earth, steely and haunting,
with aromas of soil, fresh and pressed flowers,
tea and mixed red berry fruits. Dry on the palate
with silty soil and fine tanning textures, balanced
acidity and flavours melding with the bouquet. A
thinker's Pinot Noir, with a lengthy finish. Drink
now and through 2022.
POINTS: 94
Contact: www.pyramidvalley.co.nz
RRP $125.00
Te Mata Alma Pinot Noir 2018
22
Hawke's Bay
An expressive, velvety bouquet with youthful
power and energy, and a core of fruit, oak and
savoury complexity. Perfectly weighted on the
palate; dry, savoury and fruity with plum, cherry
and spice. Whispers of dark rose and stony
minerality. Unmistakable oak impact and whole
bunch approach, but with enough weight and fruit
to carry it. A young wine with a complexity that
should carry well into bottle development phase.
Best decanted for service with ideal drinking 2021
through 2026.
POINTS: 94
Contact: www.temata.co.nz
RRP $60.00
62 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019
TASTING NOTES PINOT NOIR
Wooing Tree Pinot Noir 2017
23
Central Otago
Distinctive bouquet with a smoky, fruity core
and enticing complexity. Flavours of dark
cherry and black rose, black currant and vanilla,
plum and crushed stone. Dry with a plenty of
tannins and acidity, youthful and developing
complexities. Very young still needing cellar
time. Best from 2022 through 2030.
POINTS: 94
Contact: www.wooingtree.co.nz
RRP $48.00
Luna Estate Pinot Noir 2017
24
Martinborough
Complex and enticing bouquet of Pinot, with
layers of new oak, ripe red berry fruits, baking
spices and earthy - mushroom and silty clay
layers. On the palate: dry with textures and
flavours reflective of the nose; raspberry and
dried strawberry, cherry then earthy moments
of mushroom and soil; decent amount of oak,
firmer youthful tannins. Well made; drink now
and through 2026.
POINTS: 93
Contact: www.lunaestate.co.nz
RRP $26.00
Te Mata Estate Vineyards
25
Pinot Noir 2018 Hawke's Bay
Immediately varietal, tense, focused bouquet.
Dark cherry, a host of light red berry fruit,
savoury note and fresh baking spices. Dry and
youthful on the palate, with a core of fruit and
savoury spice. Firm tannins and acidity; there's
no mistaking the oak, even at 15% new; spice
and sweetness alongside the savoury whole
bunch layer adds complexity. Medium weight
and lengthy finish. Lots of energy, this wine
still needs some cellar time to settle. Decant
for service; best drinking from late 2020
through 2024.
POINTS: 93
Contact: www.temata.co.nz
RRP $30.00
Lake Chalice The Falcon
26
Pinot Noir 2018 Marlborough
Lots of inviting toasty oak with aromas of
cinnamon and cedar then strawberry and
red cherry, some red apple skin and sweet
rose. Fruity on the palate, with dusty tannins
and acidity giving a lovely structure against a
backdrop of light red fruit flavours. Nice dry
finish, balanced and well made. Drink now
and through 2026.
POINTS: 92
Contact: www.lakechalice.com
RRP $18.99
Lake Chalice The Raptor
27
Pinot Noir 2016 Marlborough
Toasty, savoury, fruity and integrated bouquet
of Pinot with aromas of red berries, brown
spices and dry stone minerality. A dry wine,
with a core of red berry fruit and savoury
earthy flavours. No mistaking the acidity and
bite of tannins with a fresh tart fruit finish. A
wine that needs some more time to settle and
harmonise its various attributes. Best from
2021 through 2026.
POINTS: 90
Contact: www.lakechalice.com
RRP $22.99
Toi Toi Reserve Pinot Noir
28
2014 Central Otago
Classic bouquet of an Otago Pinot Noir, with
dark cherry and undergrowth, dried raspberry
and toasty wood spices. Dry with firm
textures of acidity and youthful tannins offset
by red fruit flavours and brown spices of
wood and toasted wood flavours. Well-made,
still youthful and coming together - drink from
late 2019 through 2026.
POINTS: 90
Contact: www.toitoiwines.co.nz
RRP $39.99
Crafters Union Pinot Noir
29
2018 Central Otago
Varietal & fruity bouquet with aromas of red
cherry and raspberry, whispers of red rose and
dried herb. Dry on the palate with flavours
of red apple and cherry, tart raspberry and
plum. Fine easy tannins, very little oak and a
crisp dry finish. Drinking well now and through
2022. Best enjoyed with food through 2020.
POINTS: 87
Contact: www.craftersunionwines.com
RRP $21.99
Selaks The Taste Collection
30
Velvety Pinot Noir 2018
Marlborough
Fruity, fresh, ripe and forward with aromas
of red berry fruits especially cherry and
strawberry, some cranberry and red plum
moments. A gentle Pinosity. Crisp, tart and
dry on the palate, abundant acidity and fine
easy tannins adding texture and a vibrant
palate feel. Fruit flavours are constant and
mirror the nose. Lighter weight example.
Drink now and through 2021.
POINTS: 86
Contact: www.selaks.co.nz
RRP $21.99
23
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27
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29
30
WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 63
MIGHTY REDS
Drama
Queens
NEW ZEALAND WINEMAKERS ARE PUSHING THE BOUNDARIES
WHEN IT COMES TO WORLD-CLASS RED WINES, WITH SOME
BOLD, INTENSE FLAVOURS THAT WILL MAKE LOVERS OF
Red wine drinkers can
be very particular
about the variety and
style they prefer. When
it comes to diversity and quality, our
NZ red wines are pretty impressive.
Pinot Noir is a good example. It has
a wonderful way of reflecting the
site where it is grown or a thread
of flavour that the producer likes to
harness. The use of whole-bunch
(as opposed to de-stemmed) fruit as
a percentage of the finished wine
is quite common. So too is the
use of oak and how long the wine
matures for in barrel impacts heavily
on the final taste. Less preservative
at bottling, un-fined and unfiltered
are two more influences of texture
and taste. All these ideas speak to the
style, flavour and expression that a
producer is trying to convey. Two
example Pinots Noir that will allow
your adventurous side to take charge
are Grasshopper Rock and Air New
Zealand Fine Wine Lowburn Ferry.
WEIGHTIER WINES REJOICE
Syrah is the jewel in the
vinous crown of New Zealand.
The variety has been part of our
wine scene for some time, but as
lived somewhat in the shadow of
Pinot Noir and Cabernet. Not
any more. Northland, Waiheke
Island, Gisborne, Hawke's Bay,
Wairarapa and Marlborough all have
excellent examples to consider. The
aroma and taste profile of Syrah is
somewhat particular though with
blackcurrant and spices, raspberry
and aged meats, pepper, violets, bold
tannins and a back bone of acidity.
An excellent food wine for sure.
Two must-try examples include
Villa Maria’s Reserve and Te Mata
Estate Bullnose.
Ideally Merlot should have
an aroma and flavour package of
violet or rose and dark plums, a
fleshy core, suggestions of blue
fruit and a natural earthy quality.
Merlot tannins are typically rounder
and plush. W
Vidal Soler Syrah
1
2017 Gimblett Gravels
Hawke’s Bay
A bouquet filled with aromas of violets, black
currants, raspberry, peppery sweet meats,
smoky oak and layers of garrigue, dry stone
and baking spices. Very expressive on the
palate with flavours of oak and wood smoke,
dark raspberry and black currant, loads of
pepper and sweet black olive. Weighty yet
fine, a strong backbone of acidity and firm
youthful tannins, a core of fruit and ripeness
with a long dry finish. This wine is delicious.
Decant for service now and through 2022.
Excellent drinking from 2022 through 2030
if stored well.
POINTS: 98
Contact: www.vidal.co.nz
RRP $34.99
2
Vidal Legacy Syrah
2016 Gimblett Gravels
Hawke’s Bay
Fantastic bouquet of Syrah with softly spoken
white pepper, baked raspberry, crushed black
cherry, rose and a quiet yet powerful charm.
No mistaking the complexity with a beguiling
seductive core. Velvet & silk tannins, a
backbone of acidity, vanilla, clove and a soft filé
powder note. Long and complex finish. Drink
now and through 2028.
POINTS: 96
Contact: www.vidal.co.nz
RRP $79.99
1 2
More next page>>
64 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019
TASTING NOTES MIGHTY REDS
Pegasus Bay Maestro
3
Merlot, Cabernet, Malbec
2015 North Canterbury
Complex bouquet of dark red fruits
led by Doris plum, blackberry and dark
spiced chocolate. Toasty wood spices
of clove and baked vanilla, a steely
haunt adds complexity and depth. Dry
with a contrasting core of red berry
fruits, chocolate and wood spice. Firm
to fine tannins and warming alcohol.
Medium+ acidity and dark fruited core.
Coming into balance slowly. Lengthy
fine finish. Drink from late 2019 and
through 2029.
POINTS: 95
Contact: www.pegasusbay.com
RRP $50.00
The Landing Syrah 2015
4
Bay of Islands
Dark forest berries, toasty oak with
clove and vanilla scents, baked field
mushrooms, black cherry, ageing meats
and a clay gravel earth core. Dry, luscious
and fruity with flavours of blueberry,
pepper, blackcurrant and raspberry.
Plenty of acidity with ripe, firm youthful
tannins, great structure and length. The
complexity builds as the wine opens up in
the glass. A lovely wine, quite masculine
with broad shoulders, weight and power.
Drink now and through 2026.
POINTS: 95
Contact: www.thelandingnz.com
RRP $39.99
Smith & Sheth CRU
5
Heretaunga Syrah 2017
Hawke’s Bay
Varietal and immediately enticing
bouquet of sweet oak and pepper
spice, toasty wood and dark berries
with raspberry and black currant. Dry,
toasty, fruity and spicy on the palate with
dusty wood tannins, plenty of acidity,
medium+ weight and intensity. The
finish is finer with dark cherry and some
floral moments. Youthful overall though
drinkable today and through 2026.
POINTS: 93
Contact: www.smithandsheth.com
RRP $40.00
Samuel’s Collection
6
Grenache Shiraz Mataro
2016 South Australia
Dark cherry, peppery raspberry, milk
chocolate and chilli-spice moments,
some baking spices and overall
generous and welcoming bouquet. Dry,
fruity, mild spices and generous palate
with fine tannins and medium acidity,
flavours of fresh red berry fruits, a hint
of chocolate and liquorice with a dry,
balanced and fairly lengthy finish. Well
made, moderate complexity; drink now
and through 2021.
POINTS: 92
Contact: www.yalumbaestate.com
RRP $25.95
Samuel’s Collection
7
Shiraz Cabernet
Sauvignon 2017 South
Australia
Fleshy, ripe, spicy and packed fruit aromas
of black cherry and blackberry, dark plum
then black pepper and vanilla, violet and
bell pepper. Dry, tense, fruity and spicy on
the palate, with fruit and vegetal flavours
that mirror the nose, firm youthfullytextured
tannins and medium+ acidity.
This wine will please many who like this
style. Balanced , well made and ready.
Drink now and through 2022.
POINTS: 90
Contact: www.yalumbaestate.com
RRP $25.95
Selaks The Taste
8
Collection Silky Smooth
Merlot 2018 Hawke's Bay
Aromas of Doris plums and dark
berries, clove and cinnamon baking
spices then toasty oak wood
suggestions. Fruity and dry on the
palate with a nice concentration of
flavour from both fruit and wood
attributes. Fine tannins, easy acidity,
balanced even finish. A nice wine for
many red wine drinkers to enjoy. Best
from today and through 2021.
POINTS: 90
Contact: www.selaks.co.nz
RRP $21.99
3 4 5 6 7 8
WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 65
Ooh
la la!
A CLASSIC NEW ZEALAND CABERNET
SAUVIGNON TAKES ITS ROOTS FROM THE
HISTORIC FRENCH REGION OF BORDEAUX
Red wines can be made as single
variety expressions or as a
blend of more than one variety.
Merlot for example, or Cabernet
Sauvignon on their own make lovely wines
and can age well blended together; they are
great mates.
The classic wines of Bordeaux in France
are accepted benchmarks, with Cabernet
Sauvignon and Merlot-led blends of the ‘Left
bank’ (geographically, the villages on the
left hand side of the Gironde River) or the
Merlot Cabernet Franc wines of the ‘Right
bank’ (the right bank of the same river).
These combinations have been emulated
around the world, as it has been right here in
New Zealand.
Cabernet Sauvignon provides the power and
intensity, and the wine’s backbone, with its bold
tannins and acidity then flavours of blackberry
and dark plum, baked bell pepper and tobacco.
Cabernet Franc has a similar aroma, flavour and
structure attributes plus violet, olive, dried herb
and dark red berry as well.
Cabernets Sauvignon and Franc with Merlot
combined make classy, well-structured wine
with inherent attributes for ageing. It’s also a
great choice for food pairing, working well
with dishes like medium-rare eye fillet or wild
boar casserole to cheese or shepherd’s pie – or
simply with a seven-times award-winning
mince and cheese pie like Tauranga-based
Patrick Lam’s! W
66 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019
TASTING NOTES CABERNET SAUVIGNON
Vidal Legacy Gimblett
1
Gravels Cabernet
Sauvignon Merlot 2016
Hawke's Bay
Youthful, fruity and alluring bouquet
with an intriguing textured complexity. A
core of red and dark berry fruit flavours
layered between finely-tuned flavours
of oak, firm chalky tannins and abundant
acidity. There is a dry-stone mineral layer
alongside toasty wood spices, adding
further complexity. A very appealing wine
that will age well into the late 2020s. A
great food wine option with decanting is
highly recommended.
POINTS: 96
Contact: www.vidal.co.nz
RRP $69.99
Vidal Soler Gimblett
2
Gravels Cabernet
Sauvignon 2017 Hawke's Bay
A bouquet that is slow to reveal its story.
Aromas emerge of blackened blackberry,
dark plum and fresh cigar tobacco.
Marmite and meat, a sweet toasted wood
scent accentuated with aromas of clove
and vanilla, then dried herb and baked
bell-pepper. A complexity unfurls after
many minutes in glass. Youthful, tense, firm
and dry with flavours reflective of the nose.
Abundant fruit and wood tannins with
plenty of acidity. Complex, lengthy finish.
A wine that should age and harmonise in
your cellar over the coming 3-5 years. Ideal
drinking 2024 through 2034.
POINTS: 96
Contact: www.vidal.co.nz
RRP $34.99
Smith & Sheth CRU
3
Cabernets Sauvignon &
Franc, Tempranillo Cantera
2016 Hawke's Bay
This blended red wine from Hawke’s Bay
fruit is led by Cabernet Sauvignon, Franc
and Tempranillo. The nose shows off aromas
of power and substance with a youthful core
of dark berries, spices, tobacco and smoky
wood. On the palate, even more youthful
with bold tannins and acidity, plenty of
oak, spice, raspberry, dark berries, olive and
violets. All the elements are there for a wine
to age and integrate over the next few years.
Lengthy dry finish, raw energy and muscle.
Decant for service before 2022 with best
drinking from 2022 through 2030.
POINTS: 94
Contact: www.smithandsheth.com
RRP $60.00
Yalumba The Signature
4
Cabernet Sauvignon
Shiraz 2014 South Australia
Dark, rich and broody bouquet with
distinctive aromas of dark berries and
violets layered between stylish oak scents
of vanilla, pepper and clove, then toasted
wood and dark chocolate. Dry, fruity
and plump with flavours of dark berry
fruit and wood, firm moderate tannins
and acidity offering contrast, texture and
complexity. Well made, totally enjoyable
and excellent food wine. Drink now and
through 2024.
POINTS: 94
Contact: www.yalumba.com
RRP $65.00
Yalumba The Cigar
5
Cabernet Sauvignon 2014
South Australia
A fine wine bouquet with black and blue
berry fruits, plum and blackberry, some
blackcurrant and olive. Just a hint of mint,
licorice and exotic spice. No mistaking the
tobacco and cigar layer with its use of oak
and tannin integration. There's also no
mistaking the use of oak and dark wood
spices of vanilla and clove. With fine to
moderate tannins in abundance and
balanced acid line this wine is very nice
indeed. Drink now and through 2025.
POINTS: 94
Contact: www.yalumba.com
RRP $29.99
Crafters Union Cabernet
6
Sauvignon 2017
Coonawarra Australia
Classic varietal bouquet with aromas
of blackberry and tobacco, dark plum
and baked bell-pepper, brown spices
and smoky boxwood. Dry on the
palate with medium+ weight, medium
acidity and abundant yet fine tannins.
Balanced and well made, drink now and
through 2022.
POINTS: 90
Contact: www.craftersunionwines.
com
RRP $24.99
1 2 3 4 5 6
WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 67
SWEETS
Sweet
stuff
Seifried Winemakers
1
Collection Sweet Agnes
Riesling 2016 Nelson
A captivating luscious, ripe and and highly
scented bouquet. Aromas and flavours of
honeysuckle, sweet citrus, a core of apple,
apricot and honey. Sweet, creamy texture
with contrasting acid line and very long
finish. A fantastic example of NZ Riesling at
its very best!
POINTS: 95
Contact: www.seifried.co.nz
RRP $38.00
Askerne Late Harvest
2
Gewürztraminer 2017
Hawke’s Bay
Honey, spices, baked apple tart, clove and
brown sugar. Very sweet, very fruity, loaded
with flavours of honey and apricot, baked
apple tart and clove. Full-bodied and rich
and creamy texture. Long finish, delicious.
Drink now.
POINTS: 94
Contact: www.askernewines.co.nz
RRP $22.90
IF A WINE TASTES DRY, CAN IT STILL BE SWEET? LATE HARVEST
GRAPES CAN OFFER A TEASE IN TASTE AS WELL AS A BEAUTIFUL
Our palate can detect
residual sugar in wine
from around 3 grams
per litre & upwards.
This measure does not make a
wine sweet - in fact it will still be
dry and the sweetness often barely
noticeable until about 9 grams. It’s
all about balance, and what role
acidity and alcohol play alongside
sugar. A dry wine is considered
‘dry’ if the wine causes the palate
to dry out after swallowing. The
structure of wine and how acidity
plays a role in balance can often
lead us into thinking a wine is dry
when in fact it is not.
Some German wines are
adept at teasing the palate in this
way. New Zealand sweet wine
can do the same. Sweet wine is
generally made from ‘late harvest’
grapes – those deliberately left
out long after the official harvest
time in order for extra sunshine
SAVOURY FOOD MATCH
to increase their sugar levels.
They may also have been infected
with botrytis cinerea – noble rot
– for a wonderful honey, sweet
apricot effect. There are some red
varieties used, but the wines are
generally white.
The threshold for what defines
a sweet wine is debatable - suffice
to say that if you taste a wine and
describe it as sweet, it is. However,
one person’s measure or scale of
sweetness will be different from
the next.
Strangely, many people view
sweet wine as something to be
kept for cheese or dessert. It's
actually an excellent partner for
food with a little kick of spice, paté
and even oily fish like salmon.
Dessert wines are a category of
sweet wine. They should not to be
confused with a wine that is simply
fruity. Some sweet wines can be
both fruity and sweet. W
Loveblock Sweet Moscato
3
2014 Marlborough
Fragrant, floral, fruity and very appealing
bouquet. Blossoms, spun sugar, citrus and
orange peel aromas. Sweet as it hits the
palate, but immediately contrasted by
acidity, texture and flavour. Flavours from
the nose and palate persist with some
warmth and freshness adding to the length
and finish. Drink now and through 2024.
POINTS: 91
Contact: www.loveblockwine.com
RRP $29.99
1 2 3
WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 69
CAM'S BACK PAGE
Behind the
Velvet Curtain
EVERY WINE LOVER HAS A SPECIAL BOTTLE THEY'LL BRING TO A DINNER PARTY...
JUST AS LONG AS THEY DON'T HAVE TO SHARE IT
You’ve been invited to a party –
great! You ask the host what you can
contribute; “Oh, just bring a bottle,”
is the breezy response. But what is
the ‘right’ wine in this scenario? – A robust red,
delicate white, some bubbly, a magnum, a bottle
from your cellar… or perhaps you just pick up
something from the liquor shop on the way?
Whatever your approach, please don’t buy
cheap and cheerful, especially if you like wine
- and the host. Go for something interesting and
different; a wine you’ve been waiting to try.
‘Classic’ New Zealand wine is always a good
option. Choose varieties or brands that are well
known, but not bottom shelf. I particularly like
Millton Chardonnay, Palliser Estate Riesling,
Mahi Sauvignon Blanc and Misha’s Cantata
Pinot Noir. These wines are tasty and overdeliver
for the price. If you really can’t decide
then a full-bodied, rich and complex
sparkling wine is always fantastic;
Air New Zealand fine wines
Quartz Reef and No.1 Family
Estate are great examples. If
that doesn’t sound like you, opt
for a magnum of Rosé – not
expensive, and it stands out.
Selecting a nice wine to share
at a party can be a real challenge.
Firstly – are you supposed to share?
I’ve seen strangers use ‘my wine’ to fill
their glass near the top, take a slug and pretend
all is cool. If you’re bringing a bottle to a shared
occasion, I think you can expect other guests to
enjoy a glass.
If the idea of sharing your beautiful wine
doesn’t appeal, however, and you’re getting a taxi
home, consider presenting the host with two
bottles. There’s more of your wine to go around,
and you’re less likely to resent your fellow winedrinker
for enjoying your delicious drop.
The other option: bring two bottles, and pop
one behind the plush velvet curtain in the living
room when no-one is looking! Now you know
you can enjoy your lovely wine, away from
people who don’t appreciate wine like you do.
However, if you do decide to use the ‘velvet
curtain’ method, prepare for disappointment.
I gave up on velvet curtain wine years ago,
because despite the thrill of secrecy, hidden wine
just never tastes quite the way I expect.
Why? Guilt. Hiding wine at parties
just isn’t kosha. Parties are a time
for connecting and socialising, not
subterfuge – where’s the fun in
hurriedly downing your wine
like a sordid secret? If you really
want to savour a glass of that
special wine, open it early, and
pour a glass for the host or your
mates first. After all, a really good
wine tastes best when it’s shared. W
70 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019
Vidal Legacy Hawkes Bay
Chardonnay 2018
“Seductive, enticing, complex
and glamorous...” 96 Points
- Cameron Douglas MS