World Of Wine Winter 2019

World of Wine

CAMERON

VOLUME 2 WINTER 2019

DOUGLAS MS

IT'S A MATCH

Food and wine

pairs to love

CELLAR

SECRETS

Backstage at the vineyard

PLUS finding your

favourite drop

WINE

LABEL

LANGUAGE

EXPLAINED

Reds

the Rise

A world first for

New Zealand wine

Villa Maria named in the

Top 3 brands globally

Judged by 130 masters of wines, wine writers wine buyers,

and journalists – this is the first time ever a New Zealand wine

brand has been named Top 3 in the world.

SEDDON VINEYARD, MARLBOROUGH

CONTENTS WINTER

World of Wine

CAMERON DOUGLAS MS

37 Gris-ing the wheels: a bottle

of Pinot Gris is a favourite for

food matching

39 Coq au vin:

Cam picks the best wine for Josh

Emett’s delicious chicken dish

40 A Taste of the new:

A meeting of minds led to the

creation of a new style of fine wine

42 Kiss from a Rosé:

Pink is the new black – no matter

what shade you choose

COVER DESIGNED BY DEBBIE DALE

Cameron enjoying a Hawke's Bay

Stonecroft Chardonnay

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7 About the Master

Cameron Douglas is – quite literally

– the Master of Wine.

8 Roaming the regions

How can each region of New

Zealand produce such a diverse

array of wine?

10 History in the making:

A couple’s love of history – and

of Pinot Noir led to a dramatic

revelation in Marlborough

13 Cellar secrets:

Where to find our best winery

experiences

17 Farm fresh:

Slow cooked lamb oyster shoulder

makes a perfect winter match for

this Pinot Noir

18 Wine princess gets her crown:

The woman behind the Crown

Range story

21 What’s in a white?

You might know our nation’s top

three whites – what’s the fourth?

22 Focus on Chardonnay

30 Timeless Tohu Whenua:

It’s all about balance for this special

Māori vineyard

32 A Sauvignon for all seasons

This Kiwi favourite is breaking

new ground

45 Organically speaking:

The rise of natural growing

techniques is creating some

innovative flavours

46 Label language unpicked:

Taking time to read a wine label –

and those bottle stickers – can be

very revealing

48 Shine bright like a sparkle:

New Zealand’s top sparkling wines

52 Aromatically speaking:

Unfolding the defining flavours of

an aromatic wine

55 The romance of reds:

New Zealand’s iconic red wine

industry is flourishing

57 Perfectly Pinot:

Our love story with Pinot Noir

is intensifying

60 Mulled wine:

Cam’s top wine picks for this

delicious winter tipple

64 Beautiful blends:

Look to New Zealand reds for

some gorgeous style innovation

69 Sweet stuff:

Don’t just keep these fine flavours

for dessert

70 Cam’s Back Page:

Which wine would you hide behind

the velvet curtain?

4 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019

Sofia & Jackson’s wedding, Melbourne

Marlborough Wine and Food Festival

2019 - To Do

Running with the bulls

Orangutans in Borneo

Half Marathon, Queenstown

Proposal to all staff - 4 day week?

Sunday 1pm

Pick up bottle of Ara!

YOUR JOURNEY.

Cameron Douglas, MS:

A WORD

FROM

THE

MASTER

Welcome to the second

edition of World of Wine

– we didn’t know if there

would be a second but it

seems you fine people are keen to know

more. Truth is, living in NZ means you’re

living in your own exciting world of wine

– one that is evolving fast and fabulously.

I would simply like to offer some guidance

and insights on what to drink and how to

get the most out of your vinous promiscuity

and wine budget – seems most of what our

great little country produces passes over

my tasting table so I am likely able to offer

an informed opinion.

Before we start however, I’d like to

explain what a Sommelier is and what

they do. It’s no longer a guy in a suit

who instructs you on the appropriate

tipple (though I do have a wardrobe of

exceptionally fine suits).

A Sommelier is a trained and

knowledgeable professional who is able to

manage all aspects of beverage service. By

this I mean knowing about anything potable

- from water to ingredients for cocktails,

from beer to port, from sake to spirits;

red, white, pink, sparkling, orange, natural,

organic or bio-dynamic wine selections.

A Sommelier is your adviser on what to

buy, what and how to cellar, when to drink

it, and recommendations for food and wine

matching. Sommeliers who wear a badge

of office may also be the gatekeepers for

wine lists in restaurants and hotels, or

manage purchasing budgets for collectors.

Most importantly though, a Sommelier

is a professional whose aim is to help you

select the right beverage specifically for you.

The story doesn’t end here - in fact it’s

just beginning. A Sommelier’s role includes

helping you discover wines that make you

smile, wines that make you want a second

glass, wines that make you want to tell the

story of when…

As I travel around the world, it's become

obvious the younger generation are

becoming more involved in what and how

they drink, and their palates are definitely

becoming more discerning. New Zealand’s

wine industry is relatively young itself – so

we’re well placed to be at the forefront

of this trend. We're even making movies

about wine now; A Seat At The Table, a

movie made by my mates Dave Nash and

Simon Mark-Brown in which I make a

few appearances, was released at this year's

New Zealand International Film Festival.

It's already been accepted for the Vancouver

Festival and Netflix! The USA movie Somm

(about the journey to become a Master

Sommelier) has had such an explosion of

interest it is now a TV series.

My world is a World of Wine – and it’s

a great journey – so turn the page and

join me.

Cameron Douglas, MS

6 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019

EDITORIAL

All About

Cameron

Master Sommelier

While your chances

of encountering

a Sommelier during

a good dining

experience are quite high, you’d

be hard pressed to find yourself

being advised on wine by a Master

Sommelier. That’s because there are

around only 257 individuals in the

world who have earned the title of

Master Sommelier from the Court

of Master Sommeliers since its

inception in 1969. New Zealand is

home to just one of these – Cameron

Douglas MS.

A Sommelier is a wine and

beverage professional. If you’re after

a specific taste, flavour or a good

wine match that’s been created for

the food you’re about to tuck into,

your Sommelier is the person to

talk to. He or she can tell you what

wines and beverages are available,

any specialised varieties within the

restaurant, and perhaps even a wine

that isn’t listed on the menu.

A Master Sommelier, however,

is a whole other barrel of wine.

An MS is required to be beyond

knowledgeable about every beverage

- from wine, sake, spirits, cocktails,

fortifieds, beers through to coffee

and water. Commonly regarded as

the most difficult exam in the world,

the title of Master Sommelier is

considered to be the highest and

most prestigious title available to

professional Sommeliers in the world.

It is only bestowed on the very few

people who first pass (generally over

a number of years) through four

rigorous levels, then face a series of

intense exams - theory, service and

tasting, from the Court of Master

Sommeliers. And it isn’t open to

anyone; these exams are by invitation

only. Very few people pass these

exams first time around; Cameron

persevered through huge

obstacles, and when he

passed it was with the

top marks in that year.

As a Master

Sommelier, Cameron

can, in moments,

identify country, region,

topography, winemaking

techniques, climate and

vineyards, as well as

suitable characteristics

for pairing, from a single

taste. His wine and

beverage knowledge

enriches his students

at AUT University

where he is a Senior

Lecturer in charge of the Wine and

Beverage programme, and takes

him around the world, where he

regularly teaches, judges, presents

at conferences, and has speaking

engagements throughout North

America, and in London, Australia,

South East Asia, China – he is about

to add Italy to his list. He is also

a regular expert speaker on six star

Crystal Cruises.

He selects wine for and is part of

the NZ Wine Navigator team – an

online supplier of NZ wine in the

USA. He lives his life around his

enthusiasm for all things beverage

– teaching, travelling, tasting and

talking. He judges and presents

wine regularly in the USA, the UK,

Australia and Asia.

Cameron writes wine lists for top

restaurants around New Zealand,

including Hiakai, Huami at SkyCity

Auckland, The Lodge Bar in

Queenstown, and continues to advise

at renowned New York Michelinstarred

restaurant The Musket Room,

run by Kiwi Matt Lambert. W

What is the points system?

The 100-point wine scoring system is used worldwide as a way for wine experts

to explain and quantify their thoughts on a wine. The system is based on the

American high school marking system, so the scale starts at 50 (rather than 0),

and can be broken down as follows:

95–100 Classic: a great wine

90–94 Outstanding: a wine of superior character and style

85–89 Very good: a wine with special qualities

80–84 Good: a solid, well-made wine

75–79 Mediocre: a drinkable wine that may have minor flaws

50–74 Not recommended

For more information on Cameron, visit https://www.camdouglasms.com/

WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 7

Walking in a

Wine Wonderland

FROM NORTHLAND TO CENTRAL OTAGO, NEW ZEALAND WINE REGIONS HAVE

A REPUTATION FOR EXCELLENCE. OUR LANDSCAPES PROVIDE A DIVERSE RANGE OF

SOILS AND GROWING CONDITIONS, REVEALING SOME UNIQUE FLAVOUR SIGNATURES

New Zealand has a twohundred-year

history

in wine which began

in 1819 in Kerikeri,

Bay of Islands where the first vines

were planted by missionary Samuel

Marsden. It’s a small region, but

Northland has some fine wine

producers, including The Landing

and Karikari Estate.

Stretching from Matakana to

Clevedon and across the water to

Waiheke, the Auckland region is

key for wine production. The soil/

landscape type is volcanic, with a

heavy clay influence. The region

supports many varieties - from Pinot

Gris at Brick Bay Wines, too Air

New Zealand Fine Wines of New

Zealand varieties Kumeu River

Chardonnay and Waiheke Islandbased

Stonyridge red blends, and

Cabernet Franc from Puriri Hills

Estate. Villa Maria, one of New

Zealand's premier producers (and

also an Air NZ Fine Wine), has a

renowned vineyard and winemaking

facility at Ihumatao, Mangere.

The Waikato and Bay of Plenty

form a single wine region. Once

well known for its aromatic wine

production, this is now home to only

two significant estates, Ohinemuri

and Vilagrad Winery.

Gisborne is renowned for being

geographically tricky - it’s also

well known for its Chardonnay,

Viognier, and Sparkling Wine

production. It’s home to James

and Annie Millton – pioneers of

biodynamics and a benchmark in

the practice. Undulating hillsides

and clay and silty loam soils create

primarily fuller-bodied whites,

though some Syrah and Merlots

are notable. A few favourites for me

include Odyssey Wines Chardonnay,

Huntaway Gewürztraminer, Spade

Oak Albariño, Coopers Creek

Chardonnay, Matawhero Chardonnay

and Millton Vineyards Syrah. River

Sun Nurseries has a significant

operation, supplying the majority

of grape plant material for New

Zealand’s wine sector.

The stunning Hawke’s Bay with

its free-draining riverstone soil base

produces some great wines, with 27

different soil types and one of NZ’s

warmest growing seasons, creating

pockets of diversity and potential.

So many notable producers come

from here - Trinity Hill, Te Mata

and Pask Estates with their Syrah

stories; Cabernet-led blends and

Chardonnay from Villa Maria, Craggy

Range, Sacred Hill, Esk Valley and Te

Awa Estates. Relatively new to the

Bay is Elephant Hill – the wines are

high quality, especially in their single

vineyard series – and the restaurant

offers a sophisticated dining

experience. Not so new, yet equally

fantastic, is Clearview Estate whose

Reserve Chardonnay is outstanding.

Part of Wellington province and

the southernmost wine region of

the North Island is the Wairarapa,

where the sub-regions of Gladstone,

Masterton, and Martinborough, are

located. The region is rich in history

– I recently tasted a wine from 1903

grown and made there – thought to

be Pinot Noir. The clay loams, gravels

and limestones mean it is notably

home to fine Pinot Noir, Syrah and

Riesling. Many great wine producers

create some of our best known

brands there: no story of the region

is complete without mentioning

Ata Rangi, Palliser Estate, Dry

River, Escarpment, Martinborough

and Schubert wines. A few of

8 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019

WINES BY REGION

the new(ish) kids on the block

making some delicious wines are:

Haythornthwaite (Gewürztraminer);

Luna Estate, Big Sky, The Elder,

Brodie, Julicher and Urlar (all

producing excellent Pinots Noir).

The view from Prophet's Rock, Central Otago.

Photo credit Paul Pujol

SOUTH ISLAND

At the top of the South Island,

Nelson is a small yet significant

contributor to our wine story. It has

long sunshine hours and the western

Moutere Hills provide shelter, though

autumn rains can be challenging.

The soils vary from riverbed to more

clay-based in the hills. Neudorf

wines consistently impress with their

complexity and true expression of

site. Their flagship Chardonnays and

Pinots Noir are investment wines,

and fans of more aromatic styles

should also try their Albariño and

Riesling. Other regional producers of

note include Blackenbrook (for their

Gewürztraminer); Aronui, Brightwater,

Renato, Richmond Plains and Rimu

Grove – all producing, among other

varieties, great Pinot Noir.

Marlborough is home to our most

significant plantings of Sauvignon

Blanc, still the most important

variety for NZ. It isn’t difficult to

find high quality examples; currently

Churton, Mahi, Clos Marguerite,

Dog Point, Greywacke and Astrolabe

are among my favourite Sauvignon

Blanc producers.

Marlborough Methode

Traditionnelle sparkling wine is

outstanding – many examples

rivalling its northern hemisphere

counterparts. It is individual, and yet

a true reflection of place, time and

potential – (see page 48 for more on

this delightful variety).

No 1 Family Estate, with their

family roots in Champagne, are

leaders in a growing list of bottlefermented

sparkling wine producers.

Cloudy Bay (Rosé), Huia (Blanc

de Blancs) and Nautilus are also

noteworthy producers – all dedicated

specialists with a focus on traditional

blends and individual expression.

Lawson’s Dry Hills, Foxes Island,

Clos Marguerite, and Two Rivers

are among my favourites in a long

(and growing) list of fine Pinot

Noir producers.

Wines to add to your 'must-try'

list from Marlborough must include:

Te Whare Ra and Fromm Syrah,

Hans Herzog Spirit of Marlborough

(Bordeaux Blend), Air NZ Fine

Wine Framingham Noble Riesling

and Johanneshof Gewürztraminer,

pretty much anything from Tohu, and

Mahi Chardonnay.

Canterbury land has much to

offer, with soils of limestone, gravels

and clays and a semi-continental

climate producing some outstanding

and delicious wines. Anything

from Pegasus Bay, Pinots Noir and

Chardonnay from Pyramid Valley,

South Island terroir differs dramatically

from its Northern counterpart.

Bell Hill, Tongue in Groove, and

Greystone wines should be on your

bucket list. Bellbird Spring and

Waipara Hills are also producing

great examples.

With just a handful of producers

in the Waitaki Valley region (North

Otago) the rugged countryside

hides some special vineyard sites and

delicious wines – the landscape is

challenging and dramatic, and frost

is a frequent threat. Pinots Noir

from Ostler, Valli and Q wines are

among the best in New Zealand. The

perseverance in adverse conditions of

the owners pays great dividends.

Central Otago is arguably New

Zealand’s most dramatic and exciting

wine region. With many producers of

fine Pinots Noir, Riesling, Sparkling

wines and Chardonnay, there is a

lot to explore in this alpine region.

Felton Road, Akarua, Wooing

Tree, Rippon, Mount Difficulty,

Quartz Reef, Prophets Rock,

Peregrine, Rockburn, Gibbston

Valley and Misha’s Vineyard are all

leader producers.

Some of the excellent estates you

may be less familiar with include:

Akitu, Aurum, Bald Hills, Burn

Cottage, Ceres, Domain Road,

Grasshopper Rock, Hawkdun Rise,

Lamont, Ruru, Perseverance Estate,

Mondillo, Mount Edward, Nevis

Bluff, Judge Rock and Two Paddocks.

Throughout the NZ wine regions,

the standards are increasingly high

and it is difficult to create a definitive

list of the best. I am extremely

fortunate that most of the producers

provide me with wines to review. I’m

seldom disappointed. W

WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 9

Brothers in

Auntsfield

A TASTE FOR THE UNUSUAL LED TO THE DISCOVERY OF A

FAMILY HEIRLOOM IN MARLBOROUGH

The tale of how Auntsfield

came to be resembles

a movie script. It’s the

story of a historical

secret, that only reveals itself when

the right people discover it, leading

to the unearthing of an unlikely

surprise, which turns out to be a

priceless treasure.

Graeme and Linda Cowley knew

nothing about wine – other than

how to thoroughly enjoy it - when

they decided a life change was in

order in the late 1990s. Graeme had

had a career in the film industry for

30 years, working on several iconic

Kiwi movies including Goodbye

Pork Pie and Smash Palace, but

felt the time was right to move on.

“Vineyard development and wine

production is much like filmmaking;

they are both vertically integrated,

from the technical side through to

the running of the project, so there

were similarities – look how many

film professionals buy wineries!” says

Graeme. “Going into wine was an

attractive change, but not something

I knew much about, but we were

young enough and confident enough

to believe we could learn anything.”

The pair set about searching

for somewhere unique; any old

vineyard wouldn’t do. “It had to

be somewhere special, something

that felt magic,” explains Graeme,

who had decided on pinot noir.

After several fruitless trips to winerich

areas like Central Otago and

Martinborough, an old film industry

colleague suggested they look at a

hillside in Marlborough. Different

to anything else they had seen, the

site had steep hills, no accessible

water, wasn’t for sale by the current

owner, and had no grapes growing

on it. “Mum and Dad basically took

a punt,” says Ben Cowley, Graeme

and Linda’s son, who works as the

viticulturalist and managing director

at Auntsfield alongside his brother

Luc, Auntsfield’s winemaker. “The

real estate agents were getting very

frustrated; they’d shown them so

many places that were perfect for

growing grapes, and now they

wanted to buy somewhere based on

the ‘feel’.”

After much negotiation, the

Cowleys secured the land; now it

was time to see if they could actually

grow vines. “My colleague had

spent a lot of time studying the local

environment, and he thought it was

doable, but no-one knew how to

plant on the hills,” says Graeme. “We

dug big holes in a grid pattern across

the site, which I jumped down and

photographed. We discovered there

was a variety of soils, and the hills

affected where the wind and the

heat was; it was perfect. Someone

had mentioned to me they thought

the grapes would grow fine because

they had a vague recollection of

something being there in the old

days, but with no other planted vines

visible from the highest point of the

hill looking north, it was a gamble.”

With no water on the property,

finding it was crucial to the

project. A local old-timer proved

indispensable when he suggested

they’d have some success on the

top north-western section of the

property. Hillside planting wasn’t

the norm at the time, so they

looked outside the region, mostly at

Waiheke Island, to learn about layout,

irrigation systems and planting.

“It was a massive risk, but my

parents loved the challenge – they

Ben Cowley (left) is Auntsfield's viticulturist;

brother Luc is the winemaker

have always made decisions based

on passion and intuition rather than

business. They go with what brings

them excitement, and they loved the

place,” says Ben. Thus began what

became some pioneering industry

changes, both for Auntsfield and for

Marlborough. Blocks couldn’t be laid

out in straight lines, and had to take

into account the topography and soil

types. The Auntsfield estate lent itself

beautifully to low-crop, structured

pinots noir and chardonnays

with depth, elegance and plenty

of minerality.

But Graeme had never forgotten

about the possibility of previous

plantings. A keen researcher, he

discovered there had indeed been

grapes here before. A 22-year-old

10 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019

BEHIND CLOSED DOORS

David Herd had arrived in Nelson

from Dundee, Scotland in 1852 with

his wife and child, on Ticonderoga,

the first of the multi-deck

immigrant ships. David got a job on

Meadowbank, a huge cattle station,

but on retiring, bought the land on

which he had dreamed of making

wine. He planted his first grapes in

1873 on the Auntsfield Estate and

made wine until his death in 1905.

His son-in-law continued the legacy

until 1931.

Fascinated, Graeme searched for

a descendant of David Herd. “One

man called John Gleeson was in his

80s and remembered it from his

childhood. He showed me around;

his mother had told him stories of

living here as a young girl, being

made to help by trampling the grapes

with her sister. She had hated it,” says

Graeme. “He described how it used

to look, and showed me where the

vines had been.” Hidden away on the

vineyard was Herd’s original wine

cellar, which has now been restored,

and John’s mother, over 100 years

old, was brought to see it, and given

some of the first wine the Cowleys

had made.

Discovering they were on historic

ground was a benchmark moment

for the Cowleys. Graeme spent

years researching the history of the

land, the family and the wine. “We

discovered David had definitely

grown muscat, although various

names were used for it back in

those days,” says Graeme. Through

numbering systems, Graeme and

Linda were able to track down a few

of the mother vines planted by Herd.

After treatment and propagation,

they were planted – by David Herd’s

great-grandson – in the restored

vineyard in 2004. In 2005, Auntsfield

produced a special Pinot Noir named

Heritage, to commemorate 100 years

since David’s death. In each bottle of

Heritage wine was a little of the one

remaining bottle of wine from the

original Auntsfield Estate.

Today, the Cowley family

produces an equal amount of

pinot noir and sauvignon blanc at

Auntsfield, plus a little chardonnay.

“In my opinion, Marlborough is

not only the greatest region in the

world to grow Sauvignon Blanc,

but has the potential to do so with

Pinot Noir as well," says Ben. “There

are some unique challenges on this

site – poor soil means little natural

nutrition, which drives a particular

wine style, but we let the vines

dictate what we do. We can’t produce

large commercial quantities, but

that suits our philosophy perfectly.”

The family have also planted

wetlands and natives as part of the

restoration project, and to maintain a

sustainable environment.

“Having such a rich history is

wonderful, and I think everyone on

the vineyard feels that sense of place,”

says Graeme. “The care that goes into

the vine is beyond anyone here now

– it’s in the land itself.” W

WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 11

A brand new look for

an old favourite!

Old Coach Road is the historic route used in the 1850s for

the first mail run through the Moutere Hills in Nelson, near

to where the Seifried winemaking story begins.

Our parents, Hermann & Agnes planted their first vineyard in

1973, pioneering modern winemaking in the South Island of

New Zealand. Today we continue their dream, as the second

generation of fully committed sustainable winegrowers.

WWW.SEIFRIED.CO.NZ

@SEIFRIEDESTATE

Top

Cellar Doors

WHEREVER YOU'RE TRAVELLING IN NEW ZEALAND, THERE'S A WINERY WORTH A VISIT.

CAMERON'S TAKEN SOME OF THE LEGWORK OUT OF THE RESEARCH SO YOU KNOW WHERE TO STOP

TE WHARE RA, 56 Anglesea Street,

Renwick, Marlborough

Stop by at the oldest small winery in

Marlborough and you'll feel instantly

welcomed by owners & winemakers

Anna and Jason Flowerday, their two (!)

sets of twin daughters, and a collection

of happy-go-lucky-dogs and cows.

I really enjoy visiting this vineyard

and I love the wines. There’s an instant

connection between the land, the

people and the smell and taste in the

wine. It's truly magic. All you need do

is inhale the sweet air in the vineyard

and you'll know what harmony is

all about. This is a small, certifiedorganic

vineyard originally planted

in 1979, and with just 11 hectares of

vineyard is home to the oldest vines in

KUMEU RIVER WINES, 550 Highway

16, Kumeu, Auckland

Kumeu River, its vineyards, winery and

tasting room are all adjacent to each

in Auckland’s North West community

Marlborough. The Flowerday’s mantra

is pretty cool, and smart: "We make our

living from the soil, so the soil must be

our living". My favourite wines from

TWR collection are the Toru white

blend and Syrah.

Ph + 64 3 572 8581

www.twrwines.co.nz

of Kumeu. A 30-minute

drive from downtown, it is

owned and operated by the

Brajkovich family - a 'Dally'

[Dalmatian] family who has

been part of the fabric of

New Zealand wine since

1944, when their first small

vineyard was established.

I love this place; I always

experience some of the best

old-fashioned hospitality,

and some astounding wines

too. Their Chardonnays.

The cellar door is open

for tasting and sales Mon-Fri 9am –

4.30 pm, Sat 11am -4.30 pm and closed

on Sundays.

ph +64 (0)9 412 8415

www.kumeuriver.co.nz

PEGASUS BAY: Stockgrove Road,

Waipara, RD2 Amberley 7482,

North Canterbury

Pegasus Bay winery is owned and

operated by the Donaldson family,

pioneers of the Canterbury wine

region. Take a stroll around the

winery’s breathtaking gardens and

wetlands even before you enter the

tasting room and restaurant; the air

smells sweet and intoxicating. The

cellar door experience is fantastic,

with all of the estate grown wines

available for tasting. The wines are

delicious and dare I say it - unique.

My favourite wines are the Bel

Canto Riesling and Prima Donna

Pinot Noir. Do stay for lunch as

well, the restaurant uses fresh, local

and seasonal produce, an inspiring

menu that changes regularly.

Telephone: 03 314 6869

info@pegasusbay.com;

restaurant@pegasusbay.com

WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 13

TOP WINE DESTINATIONS

VILLA MARIA

CELLAR DOOR

MANGERE, 118

Montgomerie Rd,

Mangere, Auckland 2022

Just minutes from the

Auckland Airport, the Villa Maria Ihumatao Vineyard

sits on the edge of the Manukau Harbour within a

shallow, sheltered volcanic crater. This feature alone

makes this a unique vineyard site. However, it’s only

one of the reasons that Villa Maria was named the third

most-admired wine brand in the world in March 2019.

As you enter this place you feel a sense of calm and

relaxation; a wonderful connection to the past and

present is the Ihumatao. The cellar door is a key feature

here; visitors can sample Villa Maria’s award-winning

wines, enjoy a glass of wine in the Vineyard Café

overlooking the vines or meander around the vineyard

or lake. This is a popular spot for both international

visitors and locals, so everyone can expect to be well

looked after. There are many wines to sample here with

of my favourites: Ihumatao Organic Verdelho and The

Attorney Organic Pinot Noir (Marlborough).

Open 7 days – Mon to Fri 9am - 6pm;

Weekends 9am - 4pm. Tel: 09 255 0666

www.villamariawines.com/winery/aucklandcellar-door/

THE URBAN WINERY,

3 Ossian Street, Ahuriri,

Napier, Hawke’s Bay

The Urban Winery in

Ahuriri, Napier, is home

to Tony Bish Wines and a

very ‘Kiwi’ cellar door & wine bar experience. Through

the looking glass wall of this art deco industrial-style

building, you can’t help but notice their iconic concrete

eggs. The only French oak egg barrel in the southern

hemisphere is here as well, along with beautifully laid

out barriques.

Tony is a Chardonnay specialist and from the Fat

& Sassy to the Skeetfield (my favourite), these wines

capture Hawke’s Bay and Tony’s unique style. You might

also notice only vinyl records being played, in fact you

can BYO your favourite LP for a spin. Wine tastings,

wine and craft beer by the glass or bottle, live music

events, retail sales and tasty platters.

Opening hours: Sun - Weds, 12pm - 6pm

Thurs to Sat: 12pm - late

Phone: 06 650 3353. Email:

events@theurbanwinery.co.nz

www.theurbanwinery.co.nz

www.tonybishwines.co.nz

FB:@theurbanwineryahuriri

VILLA MARIA

CELLAR DOOR

HAWKE'S BAY, 2375

State Highway 50,

Flaxmere, Roys Hill 4175,

New Zealand

The Te Awa Estate Winery, Restaurant and Cellar

Door is spectacular. Located along State Highway 50

in Flaxmere (at the foot of Roy’s Hill) the grounds and

outdoor areas evokes memories of youth - climbing

trees and rolling in the grass.

The cellar door & restaurant are both rustic and

modern. Chef Stephen Tindall creates delicious food

from an outdoor picnic to an a la carte lunch indoors.

With only lunch on offer I recommend you book. The

remaining time is set aside for events. Wines for tasting

include Te Awa Estates, Esk Valley, Left Field, Kidnapper

Cliffs and Vidal Estate – so more than a few to taste.

My must-try wines include their Te Awa Single Estate

Syrah, Vidal Estate Soler Chardonnay and Esk Valley The

Terraces Red Blend.

Open 7 Days.

www.villamariawines.com/vineyards/Hawke'sbay/

Tel: +64 6879 7602

NEUDORF

VINEYARDS 138

Neudorf Road, RD2,

Upper Moutere,

Nelson

Located on the home

vineyard, Neudorf’s

Todd Stevens (winemaker) and Rosie

Finn (Tim and Jude's daughter)

cellar door over looks their original plantings of Moutere

Chardonnay, some of the oldest chardonnay vines in the

South Island. Open since the early 80s, owners Tim & Judy

and the Neudorf team have created a peaceful environment

to come and taste their wines. Enjoy the action amongst

the vines on the other side of the fence, be it the 400 sheep

on vineyard grass patrol, or the crew working away.

Judy has crafted a baby deli filled with local cheeses to

match the wines which you can enjoy in the garden during

summer months. Their staff are warm and knowledgeable,

whether you want to sit in the garden with a glass of

Chardonnay or taste the portfolio at the bar. Neudorf

is worth the 40 minute drive north of Nelson city. I

recommend you taste all the wines, but my picks are the

Moutere Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Albariño.

Open 7 days from October 2019.

Visit www.neudorf.co.nz for more information

+64 3 543 2643

14 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019

TOP WINE DESTINATIONS

ELEPHANT HILL,

86 Clifton Road,

Te Awanga, Hawke’s Bay

Founded and owned

by the Weiss family,

Elephant Hill is a

stunning and innovative

winery estate and restaurant located on the Te Awanga

coastline in Hawke’s Bay. Every time I arrive at this

place my jaw drops - Wow! From the architecture

to the reception, wine tasting and dining, this place

is amazing. The Pacific Ocean and Cape Kidnappers

are all within view, the smell of the ocean breeze is

energising and welcoming. Elephant Hill crafts small

volumes of world-class wines from three Hawke’s Bay

sites. Their winemaking ethos is to produce the best

possible wines that express their vineyard, variety and

vintage. My favourite wines are the Single Vineyard

Chardonnay and Syrah, though all Elephant Hill wines

are rather delicious!

Cellar Door is open 7 days from 11am.

A range of tasting experiences are available,

email cellardoor@elephanthill.co.nz for private

tasting opportunities.

Cellar Door (06) 872 6073

elephanthill.co.nz

MISHA’S VINEYARD

TASTING ROOM

182 State Highway 8B,

Cromwell 9310 (Freeway

Orchard complex)

Located close to the

town of Cromwell, the Misha’s Vineyard Tasting

Room is a simple yet elegant space providing a relaxed

interactive tasting experience. From the large-scale

photographic murals showcasing the vineyard a few kms

away, to the first-class hospitality, to the wines and tasty

food platters, Misha’s is among the best in New Zealand.

I recommend the guided wine wine tasting, or tailor

your own experience, from the selection available. All

wines produced are grown on a stunning 57-hectare

estate on the edge of Lake Dunstan at Bendigo. The

range of single-vineyard Pinot Noir and aromatic white

wines comprises Pinot Gris, Riesling, Pinot Rosé,

Sauvignon Blanc and Gewürztraminer including a late

harvest dessert wine. Two of my favourite wines are the

Limelight Riesling and High Note Pinot Noir.

Hours: 10am – 4pm daily.

Contact: +64 3 4454456 or email:

tastingroom@mishasvineyard.com

www.mishasvineyard.com

Open 10am – 4pm daily.

BRICK BAY, 17 Arabella

Lane, Snells Beach,

Auckland 0920

On the east coast near

Matakana is Brick

Bay. Cantilevered over

a shimmering lake, an architectural ‘Glass House’

encompasses a tasting room, tasting room and restaurant.

It is also the gateway to the Brick Bay Sculpture Trail.

I’ve walked this trail many times – it really is amazing!

From the transparency of the Glass House, you

can view the vineyard witnessing the individual care

that underpins a small artisan vineyard. A sustainably

accredited 4.5 hectare vineyard produces all the fruit for

very limited release wines including

With Pinot Gris, Rose [need accent on this pls],

Chardonnay and Bordeaux blends, Brick Bay offers

relaxed all-day dining showcasing farm to table and

seasonal produce. I have been a fan of these wines since

the beginning with my favourites the Pinot Gris and

Pharos red blend.

Open 10am-5pm daily.

Phone 09 425 4690 Visit www.brickbay.co.nz for

information and bookings

AKARUA WINES

& KITCHEN BY

ARTISAN, 265

Arrowtown - Lake Hayes

Road, Arrowtown 9371

Akarua Wines and

Kitchen by Artisan is located 15 minutes from

Queenstown on Arrowtown-Lake Hayes Rd, in the

historic Walnut Cottage. On site is a cellar door, retail

and an indoor/outdoor dining setting, with a delightful

garden, sculptures, mature trees; a good old-fashioned

country feel. I love visiting Akarua for its quaint,

charming atmosphere, and the way it blends retail, food

and beverage with hospitality seamlessly.

The winery itself is located in Bannockburn. All

Akarua wines are 100% estate grown across six vineyard

sites spanning two subregions, Bannockburn and Pisa.

Akarua is now second-generation family owned,

established by the Skeggs family in 1996. I particularly

like the sparkling wine range and Siren Pinot Noir.

Open 7 days 11am - 5pm

www.akarua.com

P: +64 (03) 445 0897

E: info@akarua.com

WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 15

INTRODUCING CAVALIER, GREEN GINGER WINE.

BREWED USING PREMIUM MARLBOROUGH GRAPES

AND ZESTY NATURAL GINGER.

Cavalier Green Ginger Wine is forging a new

path, making wine of a different kind. The

Cavaliers of today are those of us compelled to

go against the grain. We challenge conventions

not because we’ve got beef, but because we

can.

#Cavaliergreenginger www.allanscott.com

WHISKY MAC

45ml Cavalier Green Wine

45ml Whisk(e)y

Pour ingredients into a short glass.

Fill with ice. Stir to taste.

WINE AND FOOD

Perfect with

Pinot

THIS BEAUTIFUL WINTER DISH FROM

AKARUA’S EXECUTIVE CHEF JOHN PICKENS

USES ALPINE LAMB FROM LOCAL HILLSIDES

SLOW COOKED LAMB

OYSTER SHOULDER

Ingredients

→ 1 lamb oyster shoulder - we use

Silere Merino - approx 1.1kg

→ 10 garlic cloves

→ 150ml canola oil

→ 2 sprigs of rosemary

→ 1 onion, chopped

→ 1 piece of celery, chopped

→ 1 carrot, chopped

→ 1 bottle of Akarua Rua

Pinot Noir

Method

First, confit the garlic. In a small

pot, add garlic cloves and just

enough oil to cover them. Place

on the stove top on its lowest

heat and let it slowly confit,

without boiling, for about 25

minutes. They should be soft

enough to squash with the back

of a spoon.

Allow the garlic to cool slightly.

Rip off the leaves and add them

to the garlic and oil, using a bar

blender or hand blender, blitz

for a minute or two until the

rosemary is fine and you have

a nice paste. Rub this over the

lamb shoulder and ideally leave

overnight to marinate.

Pre heat your oven 130˚C.

Take an oven proof dish with high

sides that just fits the lamb, add

the chopped veges and then

lamb on top and the bottle of

wine, if necessary top up with

water until just covered. Place a

sheet of baking paper over the

lamb, followed by aluminium foil

wrapped tightly around the edges.

Cam’s Wine Match

This is a dish of soft and subtle sweetness, delicacy and refinement

as well as tenderness and familiarity. It requires a wine with the

same attributes, but also a wine with a core of fruit, power of fine

tannins and youthful acidity to contrast the lamb. The Akarua Pinot

Noir does this with aplomb. A distinctive signature of vineyard and

Otago origins with stony schist minerality, dried herb, a whisper of thyme, and with

great fruit and structure this wine has personality and Pinosity.

Slow cook in the oven for 4-5

hours. To test the lamb is done,

wiggle the bone. It should

separate from the lamb.

In our restaurant we serve it with

caramelised onions and figs,

Akarua Pinot Noir jus and black

garlic salt.

WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 17

Songbird

FINDING YOUR PASSION TAKES A LITTLE LUCK, AND LOTS OF

HARD WORK. CAMERON CAUGHT UP WITH JING SONG, ONE

OF NEW ZEALAND’S MOST RESPECTED FEMALE WINE PRODUCERS,

TO FIND OUT MORE.

Jing Song doesn’t fit the

image of your average

wine producer. A former

accountant with an

extraordinary talent for

artistry and entrepreneurship, Jing

is an engaging blend of modern

businesswoman and colourful theatre.

Married and mother to a son, with a

second baby due later this year, Jing

is a successful wine entrepreneur.

Her latest project is an exclusive

wine club, the Crown Range Cellar

Lounge, in Parnell, Auckland, which

opened on May 17, 2019.

I first encountered Jing Song and

the Crown Range Cellar brand in

2016, when some China Girl Pinot

Noir samples arrived at my office for

review. I was intrigued; Grant Taylor,

one of New Zealand’s premier Pinot

Noir winemakers, had crafted the

wine specifically for Crown Range

Cellar; and the China Girl brand

looked interesting.

Jing first arrived in New Zealand

as a teenager from Chong Qing City,

China, to study at a Christchurch

private school. Jing took two degrees:

Accounting and Theatre Studies. Her

experience of wine and alcohol were

limited to social events. “All I knew

was cask wine back then,” smiles

Jing. “I had no idea that wine would

become my passion.”

With her newly-minted skills

– she was an A-grade scholarship

recipient - Jing landed a role in

Dunedin with financial giants

KPMG. It didn’t take long, however,

before Jing missed the excitement of

the theatre and the arts. “I did enjoy

accountancy but the job became very

routine. It suppressed my creativity,”

she explains.

With Jing’s parents having moved

from China to Central Otago, she

regularly drove from Dunedin, where

she was a student, to Queenstown

to visit them. “The journey exposed

me to the amazing landscapes and

vineyards of the region.”

On every trip, Jing would drive

by local winemaking facility VinPro.

“One day, about ten years ago, I

wanted to know more about this

place I’d driven past so often,”

explains Jing. She introduced

herself, and began asking questions

– just as Grant Taylor, one of New

Zealand’s premier Pinot Noir makers,

happened to make an appearance.

“It was pure chance that he walked

by.” That meeting signalled the

beginning of a long friendship, and a

unique partnership.

“Grant invited me into his

world of winemaking, which was

so different from the daily grind of

accounting. It fascinated me,” says

Jing, who discovered that Grant lived

directly opposite her mother.

She immersed herself in learning

about wine, Valli, winemaking and

vineyards, and worked a harvest

in order to experience the art of

boutique winemaking. Grant’s love

for wine, its history in Otago and the

land’s enormous potential worked its

magic on Jing, and in 2010, the pair

formed a wine trading enterprise.

“When I first met Grant I was

a typical poverty-stricken student

in Dunedin, but he saw something

in me,” says Jing. “He believed in

me from the beginning; he had

A woman in a

wine world

As a woman in what is historically

a male world, Jing wants to share

her knowledge and success

with other women. “It’s vital that

women believe in themselves,

their abilities and their potential,”

she says. “My advice to women

is to surround yourself with men

and women who recognise your

personal strengths. Do this,

focus on your goal, and you

will succeed.”

confidence and faith in my talent and

my palate. He invited me to blind

tastings, and made me explain what

I could taste, what I could smell. I

was a neighbourhood girl with no

knowledge, but lots of hidden talent.

He taught me a lot about wine, and

gave me the confidence I needed to

create a career.”

Jing’s unique combination of logic,

common sense and originality was

exactly what Grant was looking for;

18 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019

BEHIND CLOSED DOORS

and the pair went on to form Crown

Range Cellar Ltd in 2012. The pair

still blind taste wines today. “My

business background, combined with

my natural creativity, is why Grant

chose to work with me. It’s a very

successful partnership,” she says.

Another of Jing’s business mentors,

renowned jeweller Sir Michael

Hill, has proved invaluable on her

journey. As Jing learned more about

the New Zealand wine industry, she

realised there was a gap in the market

for a business producing bespoke

wine from some of the best wine

growing regions in New Zealand and

expanding this globally. Two years

later, Jing created Crown Range

Cellar, with the first winemaker’s

Signature Selection release in 2013 –

a Central Otago Pinot Noir made by

Grant Taylor. “Sir Michael has been a

mentor, a huge support and a friend

to me,” says Jing.

In 2017, Sir Michael named Jing

as one of the two people he admired

most (the other being Bob Charles),

due to her being the only woman,

and only Chinese, to ever win the

prestigious 2015 IWSC Pinot Noir

trophy. “Jing is the youngest female

Pinot Noir trophy winner (under

30) in New Zealand history,” by TV3

newshub reporter Jendy Harper in

2016 . In 2017 she was appointed an

IWSC ambassador, and the Crown

Range Cellar China Girl 2015

vintage was also a double trophy

winner for best Pinot Noir at the

2017 London IWC.

The next step was to open a space

for Jing to showcase her wine. “I

thought, wouldn’t it be wonderful to

bring Central Otago to Auckland! So

few people get the chance to visit the

region, this was an opportunity for

me to bring my vision to the heart

of Auckland.”

Tragedy struck at the beginning

of 2018, however, when the Crown

Range Cellar Lounge and tasting

room was gutted by fire, three weeks

before opening. “This is a very old

historical building. The electrical

wiring failed, and exploded,” says

Jing. “After 18 months of preparation

for our opening, everything was gone

overnight. Some very rare Patrick

eon wine was affected. Insurance

doesn’t cover creative vision, only

replacement rebuild materials. We

had to let staff go. I was faced with

two choices – walk away and take the

insurance, or start again.”

Fortunately, she chose the latter.

“The fire made me think harder

about the space,” she says. “It now

reflects the Otago region even more,

in part through architecture and

interior design. Influenced by natural

landscape elements from the region,

we changed the colour palette from

Cameron at Jing's Crown Range Cellar

opening with winemaker Grant Taylor (left)

and architect Ron Seeto (right)

Crown Range

Cellar wine

lounge

This calming, quiet space in

Parnell is mostly dedicated to

showcasing Crown Range Cellar's

seven wine collections, as well as

some of New Zealand's finest

wines. There is even a rare vintage

collection of international French

wines available.

The Lounge is also ideal for

business meetings, private

functions, interviews, or simply

to enjoy a glass of Crown Range

Cellar wine, New Zealand-made

gin or whisky, or a coffee. It is also

used as a space for Sommelier

education and wine tasting. The

lounge is open to the public,

with memberships available to

the public by appointment. With

room for thirty or more inside,

and a total of fifty including the

outdoor area, this truly unique

venue is a real treat.

For more information

ph 09 307 7966 or visit

www.crownrangecellar.com

white to black, and even wove some

of the charred wood from the fire

into the design. We even developed

our own decorative lighting, with real

tussock grass from central Otago.”

I have no doubt we will be seeing

and hearing much more about Jing

and her wines in the years to come.

Her future vision includes more

brand building, including The Stolen

Heart, Drowsy Fish, Fame, Moon

Rock and China Girl. These and

other Crown Range Cellar wines will

also become available at restaurants

over the coming months. W

WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 19

A Swirl

of Whites

NEW ZEALANDERS ARE A NATION OF WHITE WINE LOVERS, BUT ARE

WE MAKING THE MOST OF WHAT WE HAVE ON OFFER?

If you had to guess, what do you

think the four most-ordered white

wine in New Zealand restaurants

were? If you said Chardonnay,

Riesling, Pinot Gris and Sauvignon Blanc,

you’d be right. Other white varieties such

as Gewürztraminer, Albariño, Arneis or

Grüner Veltliner, delicious as they are,

don’t seem to get much of a look-in.

These wines might be avoided because

they are hard to pronounce, or wine

lovers may not be sure of the flavour

profile or dryness level. It could also

be that old chestnut - you like sticking

to the tried and true, habit takes over

each time you scan through the range at

your local.

Chardonnay is hands-down the

number one white wine sold. Its taste

profile of stonefruit and citrus, with

a measure of oak and great palate weight

makes it familiar, easy to consume and

an easy match with food. Two great

examples you should be looking to try

are Neudorf Rosie’s Block and Tony

Bish’s ‘Golden Egg’.

It may come as a surprise that Riesling

makes the list, yet the combination of

apple, white flowers, citrus and minerality

in a dry or off-dry style are excellent as

an aperitif and perfect for lighter weight,

fresh local seafood. Two great examples

you should be looking to try are Fromm

Spätlese and Pegasus Bay Bel Canto.

Pinot Gris is loved by many, and really

just sells itself. The flavours of pears and

apples, honeysuckle with or without

a little oak make for very easy drinking.

If you haven’t yet tried Dry River or

Greystone – it’s time.

Sauvignon Blanc needs no

introduction or taste reminders, but I’d

strongly advise you segue your next

purchases towards Greywacke Wild and

Saint Clair Reserve.

A blended white wine might strike

you as a little unusual, but there are

several great producers in NZ. If you’re

curious or serious about wine then ‘Toru’

by Te Whare Ra (TWR) is delicious.

TWR use Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris

and Riesling to craft this wine. W

WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 21

WHITE WINES

This grape variety has

to be one of the most

polarising. It is important

to note that there is no

one Chardonnay style, with terroir

and winemaking decisions able to

effect considerable variation in this

fantastic grape. Increasingly, the

style, shape and form of Chardonnay

is changing. While the popular

'traditional' creamy, fruity, oaky

and buttery expressions are still

available, a multitude of different

styles are evolving. As a food match,

Chardonnay loves fleshy or weighty

dishes such as smoked salmon or

fettuccine with cream sauces. I’ve had

an oak free Chardonnay with steak

tartare before and it was great.

Evolution and change in

Chardonnay styles, notably from New

Zealand, is inevitable. Viticulture

and winemakers are responding to

changes in weather, soil, environment

and market demands.

Competition for excellent yet

affordable Chardonnay is becoming

tougher. In order to reproduce

traditional expressions under

changing vineyard and growing

conditions, as well as keeping the

price the same or similar, winemakers

have to deploy different approaches

in the winery. The cost of making

fine wine is increasing, and so must

the price to customers to maintain

the standards.

Some wine producers are

embracing these changes by showing

more understanding of style within

style for Chardonnay. Some of

the practices include trialling

more natural winemaking to learn

where the boundary of consumer

acceptance lies and where a new

style may emerge. Less preservative,

no additives, less oak handing, small

batch wine making, different yeast

strains, high solids ferment, extended

lees ageing, concrete egg ferments

instead of steel, oak or plastic are

some of the approaches being

taken. Many of the resulting wines

are world-class. W

Chardonnay

a wine for all

reasons

22 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019

TASTING NOTES CHARDONNAY

Pyramid Valley Field of

Fire 2016 Chardonnay

New Zealand

This is delicious. The initial bouquet of flowers

and gun-flint to citrus and heirloom treefruit,

with complexity on the nose and palate,

together have wonderful harmony. Dry, with a

layer of oak spice and lees-derived wild spice to

tension and poise from the acidity and fine silky

tannins - take your time over this wine. Pause,

enjoy the weight and subtle power, flavours and

finish. Not all Chardonnay are for everyone, this

example will open your eyes and palate. Drink

now and through 2024.

POINTS: 96

Contact: www.pyramidvalley.co.nz

RRP $125.00

Pyramid Valley Lions

Tooth Chardonnay 2016

New Zealand

Complex and inviting bouquet with aromas of

grapefruit, peach and apricot woven between

aromas of vanilla and cashew, a limestone and

clay mineral quality. Delicious on the palate with

a saline feel, flavours of vanilla and other wood

spices, apple and yellow stonefruits. Very fine

wood tannins, natural acidity and long finish.

Complex and intriguing, alluring and very tasty.

drink now and through 2024.

POINTS: 96

Contact: www.pyramidvalley.co.nz

RRP $125.00

Sacred Hill Riflemans

Chardonnay 2016 Hawke’s Bay

Complex, enticing and distinctive bouquet.

Hazelnut and cashew, gun-flint and peach,

grapefruit and apple, lees and spice. Full bodied,

textured, leesy and fruity. Flavours of Brazil nut

and cashew, wood smoke, flint and leesy spices

are persistent contrasted by a core of fruit.

Weighty, medium+ acidity with a complex and

lengthy finish. Drink now and through 2026.

POINTS: 96

Contact: www.sacredhill.com

RRP $69.99

Sacred Hill Wine Thief

Chardonnay 2017 Hawke’s Bay

Great bouquet of Chardonnay, complex and

alluring. Aromas and flavours of baked peach

and nectarine, baked custard and raw brown

sugar. An abundance of spicy oak, specific and

engaging structure with a youthful acidity, oak

tannins, weight, warmth and core of fruit. Fullbodied

and powerful wine, lengthy finish and

complex. Drinkable now though best from 2021

through 2026+.

POINTS: 96

Contact: www.sacredhill.com

RRP $34.99

Vidal Legacy Chardonnay

2018 Hawke's Bay

Seductive, enticing, complex and glamorous

bouquet of Chardonnay. Aromas of roasted

cashew and yellow peach, baked golden apple

then grapefruit, a cheesy, whipped cream

moment and easy-to-spot wood spices. On

the palate - tense, vibrant, weighty, youthful and

dry. As complex and glamorous as the bouquet

suggests, with flavours of white and yellow

orchard fruits, wood spice and a flinty, leesy,

toasty harmonious core. Quite youthful with a

refreshing acid line, fine wood tannin layer, lees

spice and mineral finish. Delicious now though I

recommend decanting, even better in 2021. An

investment wine that will be the talk of many

fabulous dinner parties through to 2030 and

probably beyond.

POINTS: 96

Contact: www.vidal.co.nz

RRP $59.99

Vidal Soler Chardonnay 2018

Hawke's Bay

There’s no mistaking the power and youthful

impact that the bouquet of this wine offers -

peach and nectarine, vanilla, burnt butter and

brazil nut, lees spices and blond tobacco. A

natural complexity and raw energy. Equally

intense on the palate with flavours of yellow

stonefruit, grapefruit, apple and layers of wood

spice and lees textures. An abundance of oak

and acidity with some fine oak tannins. Very

lengthy & finishing just dry and complex. Ideal

drinking from 2021 through 2028.

POINTS: 96

Contact: www.vidal.co.nz

RRP $34.99

Auntsfield Single Vineyard

Chardonnay 2016 Marlborough

A plush and pure fruit attack with a calm

creamy bouquet. Aromas of white peach and

apricot, sweet red apple then wood spice and

vanilla. Firm youthful and dry on the palate with

a vibrant fruit core, wet stone mineral moment,

mild fine wood tannins and plenty of refreshing

and balancing acidity. Lush, fresh and juicy

finish with a building complexity. Drink now and

through 2026.

POINTS: 95

Contact: www.auntsfield.co.nz

RRP $37.99

More next page>>

WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 23

TASTING NOTES CHARDONNAY

Brennan Gibbston

Chardonnay 2016

Central Otago

A very different and exciting bouquet of

chardonnay with a lees and wood smoke

beginning, then lemon peel, apple and lemon

custard aromas. These ideas follow through to

the palate with a seamless transition, abundant

acidity and measured use of oak. Well made

and lengthy, complex and very individual.

Drink now and through 2024.

POINTS: 95

Contact: www.brennanwines.com

RRP $35.00

Church Road Grand

Reserve Chardonnay 2018

Hawke's Bay

There's no mistaking the power and impact of

this wine with aromas of sweet oak and spices,

vanilla then roasted peach, sweet lemon and

a fine layer of stony minerality. Dry, weighty,

luscious creamy texture, fine wood tannins,

medium acidity and long finish. On the 2nd

& 3rd sips the impact builds through to an

intense and very enjoyable climax of fruit, oak

and concentration. Drink now if decanted,

best from 2020 through 2025.

POINTS: 95

Contact: www.church-road.com/en-nz

RRP $39.99

Pask Gimblett Gravels

Small Batch Chardonnay

2016 Hawke's Bay

Lovely bouquet with layers of fruit and

baking spices, peach and quince, apple

and sweet grapefruit. A lively nutty spicy

oak layer adds to the complexity. The

palate reflects all these ideas with a nutty

cashew-like layer, apple and yellow peach,

vanilla and stony mineral complexities.

Balanced and well made. Drink now and

through 2026.

POINTS: 95

Contact: www.pask.co.nz

RRP $25.00

Pegasus Bay Virtuoso

Chardonnay 2016 North

Canterbury

An intense, powerful bouquet of

Chardonnay with distinctive messages

of oak and oak spices, Brazil nut, cashew

and burnt butter. Equally intense and

contrasting core of fruit with baked peach

and nectarine then a sweet vanilla spice.

The special part of this wine is the wild

florals, citrus peel a leesy complexity which

builds on the palate with each sip. Long

complex finish. Decant for service. Best

from late 2020 through 2026.

POINTS: 95

Contact: www.pegasusbay.com

RRP $60.00

Tohu Whenua Awa Single

Vineyard Chardonnay 2017

Awatere Valley, Marlborough

Complex, fragrant, youthful and powerful

bouquet of Chardonnay. Aromas and

flavours of gun flint and white peach, lemon

curd and new wood, vanilla and apple. No

mistaking the acidity, youthful energy, and

complexity of this example. Dry, weighty,

woody and layered. A wine to watch.

Decant for service please, with best drinking

from 2021 through 2026.

POINTS: 95

Contact: www.tohuwines.co.nz/

whenuaseries

RRP $39.99

Tony Bish Golden

Egg Chardonnay 2017

Hawke's Bay

Complex, enticing and distinctive bouquet.

Hazelnut and cashew, gunflint and peach,

grapefruit and apple, lees and spice. Fullbodied,

textured, leesy and fruity. Nut and

smoke and gunflint characters are persistent

with a core of fruit and flavours for contrast

and weight. Medium+ acidity, complex

lengthy finish. Drink now and through 2026.

POINTS: 95

Contact: www.tonybishwines.co.nz

RRP $39.95

Tony Bish ‘Skeetfield’

Chardonnay 2017

Hawke's Bay

An engaging bouquet with precise aromas

of citrus flesh and peel, peach and red apple.

The bouquet has shape and form, texture

from sulphide-like residue and natural ferment

scents. The connection to oak and fruit is

seamless and complex, unfurling in glass over

several minutes. Youthful, textured, fruity

and flavourful. Noticeable oak, which links

seamlessly with the fruit. Great palate weight,

fine oak tannins, loads of texture, flavours of

citrus, apple and stonefruit and a long finish. A

lovely example of Chardonnay. Drink now and

through 2028.

POINTS: 95

Contact: www.tonybishwines.co.nz

RRP $53.99

More next page>>

24 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019

An elegant fusion of flavour and fashion.

@youngandcowines_nz

Please Enjoy Responsibly.

TASTING NOTES CHARDONNAY

Villa Maria Single Vineyard

Keltern Chardonnay 2017

Hawke's Bay

Floral, flinty, fragrant, complex and enticing

bouquet. Aromas and flavours of whitefleshed

fruits, oak and wood spice. White

peach and red apple, gun metal and flint,

stones and tannin textures. A delicious wine

with tension, poise and length. Drink now and

through 2030.

POINTS: 95

Contact: www.villamariawines.com

RRP $79.99

Akarua Chardonnay 2018

Central Otago

Fantastic red fruited bouquet Youthful,

floral and sweet citrus scented bouquet.

White flowers and mineral, white peach

and apple, some lemon and pear

suggestions. Palate reflects the nose with

a youthful, firmly textured and finely tuned

flavours. As the wine opens up - flavours

suggested by the nose emerge. Plenty

of acidity, moderate measure of oak, well

made and cellar ready. Best drinking from

late 2020 through 2025.

POINTS: 94

Contact: www.akarua.com

RRP $29.00

Greystone Chardonnay 2017

North Canterbury

Floral, fruity, some wood accents and

earthy/mineral layers. Creamy, weighty,

complex and layered on the palate.

Flavours do reflect the nose, but this

wine is more about texture and synergy.

Medium+(ish) acidity, moderate use of oak

with fine tannis and wood spices, a core of

yellow fruits and apple, some wildflowers

and intriguing harmony. Well made with a

lengthy finish. Drink now and through 2024.

POINTS: 94

Contact: www.greystonewines.co.nz

RRP $39.00

Neudorf Rosie’s Block

Chardonnay 2017 Nelson

Enticing and intriguing bouquet of

Chardonnay with a flinty floral then ripe

yellow stonefruit beginning. As the wine

opens up in glass, sweet scents of oak

emerge with vanilla and white toast then a

distinctive mineral and honeysuckle layer.

Wonderful texture on the palate with a

vibrant core of fruit energised by acidity

and new oak; flavours of white peach, red

apple and quince; the vanilla sweet oak

layer returns with a noticeable spice lick

from the wood. Lovely lengthy finish, great

balance and youthful energy. Drink now

and through 2024.

POINTS: 94

Contact: www.neudorf.co.nz

RRP $33.00

Pask Gimblett Gravels

Chardonnay 2018

Hawke's Bay

No mistaking the power and the presence

of this wine on the nose with aromas of

spicy toasty wood, ripe stone fruit and

baked apple. Nutty flavours of French

Oak and creamy textures laced with spice

and acidity, a core of yellow fleshed stone

fruit, bacon-like oak layer and full bodied

richness. A lovely example - drinking well

now and through 2024.

POINTS: 94

Contact: www.pask.co.nz

RRP $22.00

Pegasus Bay Chardonnay

2017 North Canterbury

An intense, powerful bouquet of Chardonnay

with distinctive messages of oak and oak

spices, Brazil nut, cashew and burnt butter.

Equally intense and contrasting core of fruit

with baked peach and nectarine then a sweet

vanilla. The special part of this wine is the

wild florals, citrus peel and leesy complexity

which builds on the palate with each sip. Long

finish, decant for service. Best from late 2020

through 2026.

POINTS: 94

Contact: www.pegasusbay.com

RRP $43.00

Seifried Chardonnay 2017

Nelson

Aromas of white and yellow peach,

nectarine, some yellow apple and mild

baking spices of vanilla then toasty nutty

oak spice with a mild cashew quality. On

the palate - lovely! Flavours of apples

and peaches accentuated with oak and

baking spice layers. Fine creamy texture

and lengthy finish with plenty of acidity

and whispers of wood tannin adding

structure, texture and length. Drink now

and through 2023.

POINTS: 94

Contact: www.seifried.co.nz

RRP $17.00

26 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019

TASTING NOTES CHARDONNAY

Tohu Whenua Matua Single

Vineyard Chardonnay 2017

Upper Moutere, Nelson

Attractive bouquet of Chardonnay with

some familiar aromas of warm peach and

ripe apple, grapefruit peel then vanilla

custard, cashew nut and toasty wood.

Plenty of complexity and charm, dry and

weighty wine on the palate with flavours

that mirror the nose. Peach and apple,

wood spices and baked nuts, a burnt

butter, clove and vanilla push. Some very

fine wood tannins and medium+ acidity.

Overall a lovely wine that needs bottledevelopment

time in your cellar. Best

drinking from late 2020 through 2026+.

POINTS: 94

Contact: www.tohuwines.co.nz/

whenuaseries

RRP $34.99

Villa Maria Reserve

Chardonnay 2017

Hawke's Bay

Quietly complex bouquet with aromas

and flavours of yellow peach and baked

red apple, wood spices and vanilla custard.

Dry, creamy spicy and delicious. Flavours

reflect the bouquet, with layers of delicate

wood tannins, medium+ acidity and a

core of fruit and texture. Lovely power

and balance, great length. Drink now and

through 2026.

POINTS: 94

Contact: www.villamariawines.com

RRP $39.99

Villa Maria Reserve

Chardonnay 2016

Marlborough

Smoky, toasty, nutty, rich and complex.

Equally intense on the palate with flavours

of roasted stonefruits and grapefruit. A

sweet nutty richness follows with cashew

and brazil, spices and acidity. Dry lengthy

finish with an intensity, complexity and

richness that lasts long after the wine

is swallowed. Delicious! Drink now and

through 2030.

POINTS: 94

Contact: www.villamariawines.com

RRP $34.99

creamy texture contrasted by acidity.

Lengthy, and well made. Drink now and

through 2025.

POINTS: 93

Contact: www.eskvalley.co.nz

RRP $19.99

Matahiwi Holly

Chardonnay 2018

Hawke’s Bay

Smoke, toast, sweet barrel and brown

spices. A core of dark cherry and dried

raspberry fruit. Fine tannins and medium+

(ish) acidity. A core of fine oak flavours

offset by ripe red berry fruit flavours and

a little red apple skin. Lovely calmness

adding to the complexity, as well as

potential for cellar ageing. Drinkable now

- best from 2020 through 2030.

POINTS: 93

Contact: www.matahiwi.co.nz

RRP $32.99

Pyramid Valley Chardonnay

2017 Marlborough

Varietal, fruity, familiar and fresh fruited

bouquet. Aromas of wood before fruit,

apple before spice, peach before flowers.

Dry, weighty and full of fruit, wood and wild

ferment flavours - flowers and flint, leesy

spice and very fine tannins. Balanced, fresh,

building complexity, loads of texture and

well made. Drink now and through 2024.

POINTS: 93

Contact: www.pyramidvalley.co.nz

RRP $40.00

Seifried Winemakers

Collection Barrique

Fermented Chardonnay 2016

Nelson

Aromas and flavours of baked orchard

fruits with cashew and baking spices

of toasty oak, vanilla custard, peach,

nectarine, red apple then vanilla and

clove. Full-bodied, rich and creamy, quite

delicious with a creamy texture an slightly

sweet vanillin long finish. Drink now and

through 2024.

POINTS: 93

Contact: www.seifried.co.nz

RRP $26.00

Esk Valley Chardonnay 2017

Hawke's Bay

Immediately intriguing, complex, fruity

and spicy. Layers of cashew and spice,

white peach and citrus Dry with a weighty,

More next page>>

WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 27

TASTING NOTES CHARDONNAY

Giesen The Brothers

Chardonnay 2018

Marlborough

Lovely bouquet and palate of

Chardonnay with aromas and flavours

of stone fruits, apple and grapefruit

peel. A layer of oak with some spice and

wood flavours, a nutty buttery note and

soft creamy texture overall. Lots to like

and enjoy with this wine, balanced with

decent weight, medium acidity and a

completeness. Ready to enjoy today and

through 2022.

POINTS: 92

Contact: www.giesenwines.co.nz

RRP $26.99

Gibbston Valley China

Terrace Chardonnay 2017

Central Otago

A fine bouquet that encapsulates

the essence of the vineyard and soil,

cool climate Otago and excellent

winemaking. Aromas and flavours of

white peach and crunchy red apple, the

layer of oak flavour, acidity and weight

of fruit offer an elegant structure and

seamless flavour integration reflective of

the nose. Cool rocky soil and minerality

flavours integrate well with this finelytuned

example. Drinking best from 2020

through 2026.

POINTS: 92

Contact: www.gibbstonvalley.com

RRP $42.00

Lake Chalice The

Falcon Chardonnay 2017

Marlborough

Enticing aromas of peach and vanilla,

nectarine and grapefruit peel. A butter

toast layer adds depth and a layer

of complexity. Fresh, fruity, crunchy,

textured wine with weight and youthful

bite. Lengthy finish, balanced and ready.

Drink now and through 2023.

POINTS: 92

Contact: www.lakechalice.com

RRP $18.99

Palliser Estate Chardonnay

2017 Wairarapa

Classic bouquet of Chardonnay with

creamy rounded texture, aromas of

vanilla and peach, yellow apple and

nutty oak layer. Dry on the palate with

a full-bodied texture, flavours of stone

and tree fruits, some grapefruit peel

suggestion adding contrast and length.

No mistaking this wine’s oak - the nutty

cashew flavours and a little wood smoke

- balanced and layered into the wine well.

Lengthy finish with a light dusty mineral

finish. Drink now and through 2024.

POINTS: 92

Contact: www.palliser.co.nz

RRP $43.00

Villa Maria Platinum

Selection Chardonnay

2017 Hawke's Bay

Rather nice bouquet of Chardonnay

with scents of vanilla and wood spice,

ripe apple and yellow stone fruits,

baked cashew and baking spice. Dry,

nutty, spicy and fruity on the palate with

flavours that reflect the nose, medium+

body with silky almost creamy texture.

Plenty of acidity and freshness. A

charming and immediately enjoyable

example. Drink now and through 2022.

POINTS: 90

Contact: www.villamariawines.com

RRP $24.99

Ara Single Estate

Chardonnay 2018

Marlborough

Many classic aromas and flavours to this

Chardonnay - white and yellow peach,

yellow and red apple, vanilla and soft

cashew nut-oak. A light custard note too.

Creamy texture with medium acidity,

weighty, fruity and dry. A balanced and

well-made wine, with decent length and

finish. Best from today and through 2021.

POINTS: 90

Contact: www.arawines.co.nz

RRP $19.99

Lake Chalice The

Raptor Chardonnay 2017

Marlborough

Aromas of peaches and grapefruit, a

nutty core of toasty wood and spice,

apples and dry stone minerality. Weighty,

creamy, fresh, crunchy and dry on the

palate. Flavours reflect the nose with

sound structure and finish. Drink now

and through 2022.

POINTS: 90

Contact: www.lakechalice.com

RRP $22.99

28 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019

TASTING NOTES CHARDONNAY

Sacred Hill Reserve

Chardonnay 2018

Hawke’s Bay

Refreshing and familiar bouquet of

Chardonnay with aromas and flavours of

apple and peach, vanilla and cream, even

a little custard and toasty wood layer. Dry

on the palate with decent weight and

acidity. Nice measure of oak and wood

spices to match, balanced and well made.

Drink now and through 2022.

POINTS: 90

Contact: www.sacredhill.com

RRP $21.99

Crafters Union

Chardonnay 2018

Hawke's Bay

Very recognisable and appealing

bouquet of Chardonnay with ripe

apple, peaches and cream, vanilla and

mild toasty wood moments. Dry on

the palate with moderate weight and

intensity, nice acid line and flavours that

mirror the nose. Well made in a ‘drink

now’ style. Best drinking from today and

through 2021.

POINTS: 88

Contact: www.craftersunionwines.com

RRP $21.99

Selaks The Taste

Collection Buttery

Chardonnay 2018 Hawke's Bay

Smoky, toasty, nutty and buttery

bouquet of Chardonnay. Flavours of

the same on the palate with a creamy

texture, moderate acidity, vanilla, yellow

stonefruits and wood spices. Balanced

and well made in a drink now expression.

Best from today and through 2020.

POINTS: 88

Contact: www.selaks.co.nz

RRP $21.99

WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 29

Whãnau, Whenua...

Tohu

Somewhere in the upper

realms of the Awatere Valley

in Marlborough, you’ll find

Whenua Awa, a vineyard

named in tribute to the Awatere

River that surrounds parts of the

vineyard. Some 198km away, in

Upper Moutere, Nelson, is the

vineyard Whenua Matua, a name that

translates to ‘significant land’.

Both these vineyards are a part

of Tohu Wines, one of the brands

produced under Kono, a Mãoriowned

food and drinks company

based in Te Tauihu, the top of the

South Island.

As business with a 500-year

plan, Kono bases its culture on

kaitiakitanga: the importance of

balance, and of guardianship of

the land for future generations.

Acknowledged as He mãtãmua

taketake since 1998, Tohu is the

first Mãori owned and operated

wine label. Originally run with just

contract growers, the first vintage of

3,200 cases were sold domestically.

Now Tohu is a bricks and mortar

winery which can process 3,000

tonnes of fruit, with 48 hectares of

vineyard for Sauvignon Blanc, 39

hectares for Pinot Noir, 29 hectares

of Chardonnay, Riesling, Pinot Blanc,

Albariño and Pinot Gris combined.

After national and international

successes, which include the 2016

Tohu Single Vineyard Marlborough

Sauvignon Blanc being selected at an

invitation-only dinner for former US

President Barack Obama during his

visit to New Zealand in 2018, and

being named in Air New Zealand’s

Fine Wines of New Zealand list

in 2017, winemaker Bruce Taylor

and his team have just launched

Tohu Whenua Series Wines, a new

set of unique wines created to

represent their connection to their

beloved land.

“These wines are a gift from

the land,” explains Taylor, chief

winemaker at Tohu since 2008. “In

2015 I put aside a Pinot Noir to

create the Whenua series. Now, under

the Whenua wines, we produce about

eight different wine varietals. The

Whenua series is about concentrating

on the strengths of the two very

different vineyards – the Whenua

Matua vineyard, set in the sundrenched

slopes of the Moutere Hills

in Nelson; and Whenua Awa, high

on the remote terraces of the Upper

Awatere Valley.

With these two very different

vineyards, Taylor and his team have

worked hard to capture a bit of the

identity of this land in their Tohu

Whenua series. “As a winemaker I

believe looking after your land and

grapes in a way that will still be

Winemaker Bruce Taylor has

been with Tohu for 11 years

30 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019

BEHIND CLOSED DOORS

What does

the Tohu koru

represent?

In Māori, a tohu can be a sign,

symbol, distinguishing feature

of signature. The Tohu Wines

symbol was crafted to include

carved patterning known as

rauponga, which is categorised

by a row of notched chevrons.

The koru symbolises growth, life

and the natural world. “For us, the

koru represents the growth of our

company and the journey of our

people from the past to today,”

says winemaker Bruce Taylor. “It

speaks of our long-term goals

for future generations and has

become our ‘tohu’ – our signature.

sustainable in future, and organic

production is key to that. I have

a couple of kids myself now, and

it’s hard not to feel uncomfortable

about conventional practices that are

sometimes used in wine production.

“I’ve been playing with organics,

and traditional Mãori practices,

which can be very difficult to do

and expensive to manage. But we are

exploring ways of using traditional

Mãori practices and values in our

modern winery in a financially

stable way.”

Taylor believes that from a

production perspective, the Tohu

Whenua single vineyard Sauvignon

Blanc will be the biggest seller. “As

a winemaker I drink a lot of Pinot

Noir and Chardonnay,” he says. “That

being said, I’m pretty stoked with

all the varieties in the new range.

They really are a gift from the land,

our turangewaewae; the place where

we stand.” W

The Kono

project

The Kono is a woven basket

traditionally used as a food basket

for sharing and giving. The

company uses it as a promise to

their manuhiri, of the finest quality

that nature can provide, now

and forever.

WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 31

WHITE WINES

Wild about

Blanc

THE FRUITS OF A SAUVIGNON BLANC MAKE IT ONE OF NEW

ZEALAND'S FAVOURITE VARIETIES - AND IT'S GROWING MORE

POPULAR EVERY YEAR

There’s no mistaking the

immediacy with which

New Zealand Sauvignon

Blanc engages the senses.

With pungent aromas of sweet herb,

tropical fruit, white peach, citrus, apple,

gooseberry and hay, the variety has a lot

to offer. Fresh, even crunchy textures and

with laser-beam acidity when young, this

variety also offers a lot of palate action

as well.

All wine regions in NZ grow

Sauvignon Blanc, with each producing

a version similar to the description above.

With around 500 growers, 140 producers

and +24,000 hectares of vines in the

ground, Marlborough remains our largest

for Sauvignon Blanc outputs.

The classic expression of Sauvignon

Blanc hasn’t changed very much in the

last couple of decades. However, even

Sauvignon Blanc is subject to vintage

variation and winemaker skillset. The

2013 through 2017 vintages have

generally been very good to excellent.

Be sure to drink these wines soon to

make way for the 2019, the quality

looks excellent.

There are a growing number of

producers exploring the boundaries

of what this variety can offer if treated

differently in the vineyard and winery.

For example, a biodynamic or organically

farmed Sauvignon Blanc vineyard can

enhance texture and mineral suggestions.

Teasing out a saline flavour - or additional

texture with lees stirring, and the use of

neutral oak or barrel-fermented or aged

styles - demonstrates the new territory

Sauvignon Blanc is exploring. There are.

some producers releasing library stock

with 4-5 years bottle age, while others

add a little Sauvignon Gris or even Pinot

Gris as a co-ferment. W

32 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019

TASTING NOTES SAUVIGNON BLANC

Auntsfield South Oaks

Sauvignon Blanc 2016

Marlborough

Complex and developing bouquet of

Sauvignon Blanc with aromas and flavours

of baking spices and lemon pepper, baked

apple and wood smoke, ripe peach and

vanilla. A weighty and complex wine with a

youthful acid line, nutty oak flavour, some

pristine fine tannins and long varietal finish.

Complex and very enjoyable. Drink now

and through 2025+.

POINTS: 96

Contact: www.auntsfield.co.nz

RRP $38.00

Nautilus Sauvignon Blanc

2018 Marlborough

Immediately complex and seductive bouquet

of Sauvignon Blanc, weighty and rich in

aromas of white fleshed tree fruits, some

tropical notes, citrus and lees-spices. Textured

on the palate with abundant acidity, spice and

flavours that reflect the nose. Lengthy finish.

Drink now and through 2022.

POINTS: 95

Contact: www.nautilusestate.com

RRP $25.00

Loveblock Sauvignon Blanc

2018 Marlborough

Very attractive bouquet of organic, vegan

Sauvignon Blanc, with a core of fruit then a

lees-like spice layer as well as a hint of vanilla.

Silky texture on the palate with flavours of

citrus and gooseberry, some tropical fruits

and persimmon. A tangerine peel note and

wild flowers. Plenty of acidity and lengthy

finish. What a lovely wine! drink now and

through 2022.

POINTS: 95

Contact: www.loveblockwine.com

RRP $21.99

Blind River Awatere Valley

Sauvignon Blanc 2018

Marlborough

A lovely bouquet with an enticing,

smooth and persistent bouquet of sweet

citrus, lemon thyme green apple and

pink grapefruit aromas. Equally fresh and

enticing on the palate with plenty of citrus

peel and fresh herb flavours, green apple

and some tropical fruit suggestions. Very

youthful and fresh with plenty of acidity

and crunchy textures. Well made, and

drinking well now, though best from late

2019 through 2025.

POINTS: 94

Contact: www.lawsonsdryhills.co.nz

RRP $25.00

Lawson's Dry Hills Reserve

Sauvignon Blanc 2018

Marlborough

Varietal, complex, enticing and layered

bouquet of Sauvignon Blanc. Classic yet

quiet pungency of fresh herbs, tropical fruits,

green bell-pepper and sweet grapefruit. As

the wine opens up in glass, a gentle wood

spice layer emerges adding complexity and

intrigue. Fresh, dry, fruity and tasty, plenty of

texture and gentle moments of wood spices,

a gooseberry and pineapple suggestion,

lengthy and very satisfying finish. Drink now

and through 2026.

POINTS: 94

Contact: www.lawsonsdryhills.co.nz

RRP $25.00

Tohu Whenua Awa Single

Vineyard Sauvignon

Blanc 2018 Awatere Valley,

Marlborough

Great bouquet and palate. Aromas of

tropical fruits and sweet hay, pink grapefruit

and crisp fridge-cold Pacific Rose apple. A

savoury minerality cushioned by flavours of

pineapple and passionfruit are contrasted

by high acidity and a crunchy texture. Long

finish, dry and very satisfying. Drink now

and through 2025. A wine that will most

certainly age if cellared properly.

POINTS: 94

Contact: www.tohuwines.co.nz/

whenuaseries

RRP $29.99

Auntsfield Single Vineyard

Sauvignon Blanc 2018

Marlborough

Seductive and alluring bouquet of Sauvignon

Blanc with softer fruit spice layers woven

between suggestions of lemon and sweet

grapefruit, apple, mineral and fresh lychee.

Crisp, dry, packed with flavour and texture.

Notable acidity well balanced against

the ripeness of fruit and gentle fruit spice

moments. Lengthy and quite complex finish.

Drink now through 2022.

POINTS: 93

Contact: www.auntsfield.co.nz

RRP $25.00

More next page>>

WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 33

TASTING NOTES SAUVIGNON BLANC

Te Pa The Reserve

Collection Sauvignon

Blanc 2018 Marlborough

A sophisticated and charming bouquet of

Sauvignon Blanc with a light leesy spice

quality, leading to fruit aromas of yellow

stonefruits and citrus, some gentle tropical

fruit notes and sweet hay. Crisp, refreshing,

fruity and just dry on the palate, decent fruit

weight and flavours that reflect the nose with

a light lees ginger spice layer. Well made -

drink now and through 2022.

POINTS: 93

Contact: www.tepawines.com

RRP $24.99

Toi Toi Sauvignon Blanc

Reserve 2018 Marlborough

A very classy wine indeed with aromas and

f lavours of pink grapefruit and red apple,

tropical fruits of mango and white pineapple

with a lemon twist. Fresh basil and thyme

scents with a wet stone mineral suggestion.

Dry on the palate with abundant acidity, a

core of fruit with a vibrant texture. Drink now

and through 2022.

93 POINTS

Contact: www.toitoiwines.co.nz

RRP $22.00

Yealands Single Vineyard

Awatere Valley 2018

Marlborough

Complex and engaging bouquet of

Sauvignon Blanc with aromas of organic

minerals, a seaside saline note and fruits of

the orchard especially ripe citrus and apple

with a noteworthy layer of herbaceousness.

Also engaging on the palate with a great

texture flavour and length. Drink now and

through 2022.

POINTS: 94

Contact: www.yealands.co.nz

RRP $25.00

Akarua Pisa Sauvignon

Blanc 2018 Central Otago

Distinctive bouquet with aromas of sweet

herb and citrus, apple and core of minerality

in this organic wine. A whisper of dried

herb. Fruity on the palate with a core of red

apple, white peach and citrus flavours. The

minerality and sweet herb returns. Plenty of

acidity, a decent length and finish. Drink now

and through 2021.

POINTS: 92

Contact: www.akarua.com

RRP $29.00

Aotea by the Seifried

Family Sauvignon Blanc

2019 Nelson

Distinctive bouquet and palate of

Sauvignon Blanc, with flavours of grapefruit

and tropical fruits, a definitive mineral,

fresh herb and sweet hay flavour. Loads

of energy too, with plenty of acidity, crisp

textures and minerality. Dry finish with

a flinty, grassy and mineral residue. Well

made, balanced and refreshing. Drink now

and through 2022.

POINTS: 92

Contact: www.seifried.co.nz

RRP $29.00

Lake Chalice The Raptor

2018 Marlborough

Varietal, lush, fresh, juicy and inviting

bouquet of Sauvignon Blanc. Flowers and

red apple, sweet white peach and fresh

herbs, green mango and passionfruit. A wet

stone and citrus layers adds some classic

moments. Fresh, lush, juicy and fruity on the

palate. A steely freshness and satin texture

contrasted by high acidity makes for a very

enjoyable and classic example. Drink now and

through 2025.

POINTS: 92

Contact: www.lakechalice.com

RRP $22.99

Vidal Estate Sauvignon

Blanc 2018 Marlborough

Pungent, fruity, tropical and citrus laden

with lemon, apple, grapefruit and pineapple

fruit bouquet. Vibrant, crisp, tropical and dry

on the apple; high acidity with a refreshing

salivating texture, steely, fruity and luscious.

Drink now and through 2021.

POINTS: 92

Contact: www.vidal.co.nz

RRP $15.99

34 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019

TASTING NOTES SAUVIGNON BLANC

Villa Maria Platinum

Selection Sauvignon Blanc

2018 Marlborough

Softer more complex bouquet of Sauvignon

Blanc with aromas of ripe yellow fruits,

sweet red apple, a white flower moment

and gentle aged on lees derived apple

pie suggestion. Tasty, textured, crisp and

just dry on the palate. Flavours of lemon

and grapefruit emerge alongside some

red apple, peach and dried pineapple.

Plenty of acidity, some spice and generous

weight equal a very desirable flavour and

texture profile. Totally drinkable today and

through 2022.

POINTS: 92

Contact: www.villamariawines.com

RRP $24.99

Harwood Hall Sauvignon

Blanc 2018 Marlborough

No mistaking the bouquet of Sauvignon

Blanc here - aromas of dry stone and

mineral salts, green apple, red apple and

grapefruit, some fresh herb and bellpepper

notes. Balanced, even, refreshingly

crisp, fruity and a dry finish. The complete

package in this wine, balanced and well

made. Drink now and through 2021.

POINTS: 91

Contact: www.harwoodhall.co.nz

RRP $19.99

Lawson's Dry Hills

Sauvignon Blanc 2018

Marlborough

A complete and classic bouquet of

Sauvignon Blanc, with scents of sweet

herbs and tropical fruits, lemon and

grapefruit flesh, crunchy apple and wet

stone minerality suggestions. Dry, fruity and

crunchy on the palate with flavours of sweet

herb and peach, fresh apple, herbaceous,

crisp and dry. Balanced and well made,

ready to enjoy today and through 2024.

POINTS: 91

Contact: www.lawsonsdryhills.co.nz

RRP $20.00

Loveblock Sauvignon Gris

2014 Marlborough

The bouquet of this organic and vegan

wine shows both a complex wine as

well as specific bottle-development

aromas. Heirloom lemon and pear, tea

and other floral spices, some preserved

apple and stony soil complexities. Dry

on the palate with flavours that mirror

the nose, medium+ acidity, medium

weight, balanced and quite lengthy. Drink

now and through 2022. Nice second

course wine.

POINTS: 90

Contact: www.loveblockwine.com

RRP $21.99

Ara Single Estate

Sauvignon Blanc 2018

Marlborough

Aromas of lemongrass, sweet hay,

grapefruit, mango and pineapple. Crisp, dry,

fruity and ready with flavours of apples and

citrus fruits, tropical notes of pasionfruit and

pineapple. Herbaceous grassy notes begin

to emerge on the finish. Balanced and well

made, drink now and through 2021.

POINTS: 89

Contact: www.arawines.co.nz

RRP $19.99

Selaks The Taste Collection

Zesty Sauvignon Blanc

2018 Hawke's Bay

Varietal, fruity, vibrant and classic bouquet

of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. Peaches

and gooseberry, sweet hay and grapefruit.

Some passionfruit and mango moments.

Crisp, refreshing and just dry. Flavours

mirror the nose with a light floral and

white spice lift. Well made. Drink now and

through 2021.

POINTS: 88

Contact: www.selaks.co.nz

RRP $21.99

WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 35

Alastair Maling

MASTER OF WINE

Steve Smith

MASTER OF WINE

Simon Nash

MASTER OF WINE

David Allen

MASTER OF WINE

Sam Harrop

MASTER OF WINE

Michael Brajkovich

MASTER OF WINE

Emma Jenkins

MASTER OF WINE

Cameron Douglas

MASTER SOMMELIER

WHITE WINES

Food

Friends

YOU CAN'T GO WRONG WITH A GOOD KIWI

PINOT GRIS ALONGSIDE YOUR FAVOURITE MEAL

At the heart of

quality, Pinot Gris is

excellent fruit and

great winemaking. All

wine regions in New Zealand

produce Gris, with a wide range

of flavours from white fleshed

fruits especially pears, apples

and quince to white-fleshed

stonefruits such as nectarine and

nashi. Pinot Gris responds well to

some oak or wood contact too,

with the better examples using

the medium for texture over

wood flavour (both can be great).

Acidity is usually medium or

slightly above; with the trend

towards dry to just dry styles

with a core of fruit, a satin or

silky texture can be experienced.

Some firmer styles of Gris are

available as well, often achieved

using a little skin contact to

add texture.

Gris seems to favour a

natural fermentation technique

which can often add vibrato

to the palate. With some extra

time on lees a honeysuckle,

smoky ginger-like character can

be harnessed.

What makes Pinot Gris so

popular is, in part, its predictable

and approachable characteristics.

Gris is very food friendly as it

marries well with menu items

which have soft textures and

mildly intense flavours. A creamy

fish pasta with a little olive, fresh

parmesan and grind of black

pepper is an ideal match. When

Gris has noticeable oak with a

little smoke and baking spice

flavours, foods such as smoked

chicken or fish tempura are an

excellent combination. W

WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 37

TASTING NOTES PINOT GRIS

Domain Road Defiance

Pinot Gris 2018 Central

Otago

Very attractive bouquet of Gris - floral,

fruity and layered. Flavours of white

fleshed fruits, citrus zest and cold stone

minerality. Gentle salty note, nice weight

and texture in a an off-dry expression.

Balanced, lengthy finish. A wine for

many Gris fans to enjoy. Drink now and

through 2021.

POINTS: 93

Contact: steve@copilotdistributors.co.nz

RRP $26.00

Villa Maria Platinum

Selection Pinot Gris 2018

Marlborough

Creamy, soft and gentle bouquet of Gris

with aromas of fresh and poached pear,

some apple and white peach. A touch of

spice adds depth and complexity. There’s

no mistaking the full, rich and spicy layers

on the palate. Lush and just dry, warm and

generous - dare I say it - quite Alsace-like in

flavour, richness and texture. Lovely lengthy

finish, persistent and flavoursome. Drink

now and through 2021.

POINTS: 92

Contact: www.villamariawines.com

RRP $24.99

Toi Toi Brookdale

Reserve Pinot Gris 2018

Marlborough

A lovely bouquet with intensity, freshness

and varietal concentration showing aromas

and flavours of honeysuckle, peach and

apple then a leesy lightly spiced layer.

Medium weight with a firm texture and

contrasting core of fruit, dry finish. Drink

now and through 2021.

POINTS: 90

Contact: www.toitoiwines.co.nz

RRP $22.99

Framingham Nobody’s

Hero Pinot Gris 2018

Marlborough

A great example of Gris to get stuck into

- aromas and flavours of fat juicy pear,

sweet golden apple and a layer of white

spice and hint stone minerality. Balanced

and well made with a creamy-ish texture

and drifting satisfying finish. Drink now

and through 2021.

POINTS: 89

Contact: www.framingham.co.nz

RRP $19.99

Nautilus 2017 Pinot Gris

Marlborough

Quite a lush, ripe and fruity bouquet with

whispers of a savoury undertone and

a touch of barrel spice and complexity.

Flavours of white peach, apple and Asian

pear, crisp and dry on the finish though a

touch of residual sweetness adds in a little

satin rounded texture. Balanced throughout

the palate - ready to enjoy and through

2020.

POINTS: 89

Contact: www.nautilusestate.com

RRP $29.90

Seifried Pinot Gris 2018

Nelson

Fragrant varietal and spice-led bouquet.

On the palate flavours of spicy pear and

red apple, a gingery lees flavour adds

depth and complexity. Fresh, vibrant

and with a definitive varietal intensity

reflecting fruit flavours of pear and apple;

medium+ acidity, a light leesy moment

and lengthy finish. Balanced and well

made. Drink now and through 2021.

POINTS:89

Contact: www.seifried.co.nz

RRP $17.00

Ara Single Estate Pinot

Gris 2018 Marlborough

In an off-dry expression this wine will appeal

to many Gris fans. Aromas and flavours

of white fleshed orchard fruits with a light

citrus note - this is accentuated through the

texture and on the back palate. Some leesy

moemnts with a whisper of ginger spice and

white pepper. Overall a lovely wine ready to

enjoy today and through 2021.

POINTS: 88

Contact: www.arawines.co.nz

RRP $19.99

38 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019

WINE AND FOOD

Winner,

winner

JOSH EMETT’S TAKE ON COQ AU VIN IS EVEN MORE

DELICIOUS WHEN MADE WITH A GREAT WINE

COMPLEXITY: EASY | PREP TIME: 25 MINUTES, PLUS MARINATING OVERNIGHT

COOK TIME: 1 HOUR | SERVES: 4

CHICKEN IN WINE

COQ AU VIN

Ingredients

→ 8 chicken legs, skin on

→ 2 cups plus 1 1/4 tbsp (500 ml) red wine,

or just enough to cover the thighs

→ 2/3 cup plus 2 tsp (150 ml) port

→ rapeseed/canola oil for cooking

→ 9 oz (250 g) smoked bacon, diced

→ 10 baby onions, peeled and quartered

→ 9 oz (250 g) button mushrooms, halved

→ 5 whole cloves garlic

→ 2 cups plus 1 1/4 tbsp (500 ml) beef

stock (p. 484)

→ bunch of thyme handful of parsley,

to garnish

Method

Split the chicken into thighs and

drumsticks, place in a plastic container

and just cover with the red wine and port.

Cover and refrigerate overnight, but mix

a few times in the first few hours to ensure

that the chicken is properly coated.

Next day, pre-heat the oven to 320°F

(160°C).

Drain the chicken in a colander placed

over a bowl, reserving the liquid for later.

Pat the chicken dry with paper towels.

Heat some oil in a large ovenproof frying

pan over a medium heat,add the chicken,

in batches if necessary, and fry until golden

brown on all sides. Remove and set aside.

Add the bacon and onions to the same

pan and fry for about 10 minutes, until

golden, then add the mushrooms and

garlic and continue to fry until golden and

the moisture has gone, about 5 minutes.

Pour in the reserved wine and port, bring

to a light boil and reduce by half. Add the

chicken back in at this stage, then add

enough beef stock to cover. Bring back to

the boil, then skim the surface. Add the

thyme, and cover with a cartouche then a

lid. Bake in the oven for about 45 minutes.

Serve straight away, garnished with parsley,

or leave to cool and gently reheat when

ready to serve.

Cam’s

Wine

Match

If you’re not

prepared

to drink

and enjoy a large glass, don’t

put that wine in your food.

Using cheap wine in cooking

undervalues the dish and effort

taken to produce something

delicious. Always use a wine

you’d happily drink.

With natural sweetness of

chicken thigh browned and

baked, a light smoky

note from the bacon

and sweet earthy layers

from the onion, garlic

and mushroom, the

Kumeu River Hunting

Hill Pinot Noir 2017

is a great match for

Josh’s dish. It has

an earthy mineral

core with complex

oak flavours and

textures that

complement

the dish, ripe

and slightly tart

fruit flavours to

contrast. The

chicken and

parsley challenge

the wine’s tannins,

making this a delicious and

natural combination.

Josh Emett’s Chicken in Wine from The Recipe

Ltd, 2019.

WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 39

Getting

into the CRU

A MEETING OF MINDS WAS PRELUDE TO A GROUNDBREAKING

WINE PARTNERSHIP

In the wine world, the name

Steve Smith needs little

introduction. A Master of

Wine and viticulture specialist,

Steve was at the forefront of the

Craggy Range brand launch, and has

been part of their many successes

ever since. Fewer, however, will

know Brian Sheth, an American

entrepreneur and founder of the

market-leading investment firm Vista

Equity Partners.

Steve and Brian first met in 2012

at the exclusive Cape Kidnappers.

At an impromptu wine tasting,

the pair discussed the potential for

specific exports of fine New Zealand

wine to the US. They became firm

friends, bonding over passionate

conversations about wine, French

styles, the environment and the

future, sport and music. With so

much in common, and the fine wine

space opening up, the pair realised

there was an opportunity to be had.

In wine circles, many a spirited

discussion can be overheard about

fine wines, that inevitably lead to

comparisons in quality and style

of the great wines of the world.

Bordeaux (Cabernets & Merlot)

and Burgundy (Pinot Noir &

Chardonnay) are two such examples,

where comparisons with Oregon,

Tasmania or New Zealand are

typical. Steve and Brian recognised

that wines like Grand Cru and

Premier Cru – words inextricably

linked to famous French wines -

were simply becoming too expensive

in New Zealand; ‘new generation’

wine drinkers were ready to embrace

a series of new world classics.

“To deliver wines of exceptional

quality requires exceptional

vineyards; finding a cool climate with

the right soils to deliver outstanding

wines with varieties as popular as

Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Syrah and

the Cabernets was no easy task,” says

Steve. “It was paramount we found

the right sites to establish a sense of

place in any wines we produced.”

Steve and Brian share the same

environmental awareness and are

aware of the potential impacts

that climate change can have on

viticulture. “Finding sites that are

sheltered from the impacts of nature

are critical to fine wine growing and

production,” explains Steve.

Two years after he ended his

commitments with Craggy Range in

2015, Steve and his family flew to the

US to spend more time with Brian’s

family. Brian’s experience in the

financial sector, coupled with Steve’s

expertise in viticulture, winemaking

and vision was a perfect match, and

in 2016, two companies were formed

– Aotearoa New Zealand Fine Wine

Estates LP (AONZ), and the Smith &

Sheth Wine Company.

The partnership was done; now all

they needed was to find the perfect

location. In 2017 AONZ purchased

Pyramid Valley in North Canterbury;

and Lowburn Ferry in Central

Otago, and a small parcel of land in

the Gimblett Gravels appellation of

Hawke’s Bay. “The timing was just

right; the properties matched our

vision perfectly,” says Steve. “Our aim

from the beginning was to create

excellent wine, with a sustainable,

long-term goal.”

Who is the

team behind

AONZ?

The Smith & Sheth CRU

winemaking team includes Steve

Smith with help from Warren

Gibson and Caleb Dennis who

looks after the Gimblett Gravels

land. The Pyramid Valley wines are

made by Huw Kinch. Overseeing

the Manata Estate in Cromwell,

home to the Lowburn Ferry Home

Block Wine and the new Pyramid

Valley Central Otago Pinot Noirs

is Nick Paulin. Nick was shortlisted

in this year’s international ‘Future

50’ awards for young professionals

under 40 working in the food

and wine industry around the

globe. “We are so lucky to have

Nick,” says Steve. “He is deeply

passionate about viticulture and the

whole wine environment, especially

the organic and biodynamic

principles and practice.” All the

AONZ businesses are managed

by Michael Henley.

40 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019

BEHIND CLOSED DOORS

Cam

says...

In my opinion, (see wine notes

on page 62 & 64), Smith & Sheth

CRU wines from Hawke’s Bay are

serious, world-class fine wines,

comparable to any of their fine

wine counterparts in the northern

hemisphere. The Cantera 2016

Omahu is a particular favourite.

Smith & Sheth’s exclusive

Exchange

To bring all of these wine companies together, Steve

and Brian opened the Smith & Sheth Cellar Door

and Wine Lounge and the Heretaunga Studio in the

Courtyard of the Village Exchange in Havelock North.

The studio has a theatre, a lounge and a barrel cellar

experience all rolled into one, the idea being to make

it as interactive as possible. Only eight guests at a time

can participate in the experience. Sommelier Sonya

Eberly heads the wine experience team.

For more information on Smith & Sheth, visit

www.smithandsheth.com

Steve and Brian believe strongly

in New Zealand’s wine potential,

particularly in the cool limestone

slopes of the Waikari region in

North Canterbury, and on the

older, more weathered schist soils

of Central Otago. “We also believe

Sauvignon Blanc is one of the

world’s great varieties that deserves to

be recognised as a fine wine. It will

continue to be a major part of our

portfolio,” says Steve.

Smith & Sheth’s CRU, based in

Hawke’s Bay, currently has a portfolio

containing Albarino; three different

expressions of Chardonnay from

three separate sites; Cantera (a red

blend led by Cabernet); and two

Syrahs. An eighth wine, Sauvignon

Blanc, is sourced from specific

old vine parcels around Renwick

township and Sam and Mandy

Weavers biodynamic vineyard on

the hills above the

Waihopai Valley.

The recentlyopened

the Smith &

Sheth Oenotheque

and the Heretaunga

Studio in Havelock

North are a cellar

door, wine lounge and

tasting experience. The

Hereatunga Studio

takes up to 8 people,

while the Oenotheque-

Cellar Door and Wine

Lounge is open to

more people on a walk

up basis. W

WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 41

Fifty

Shades

OFRosé

If you lined up all the

rosé wines available

in New Zealand,

you’d see at least fifty

different colours. From

red to pink, onion skin

to salmon, all tints of rosé

are correct. There is no

guidebook on rosé colour,

although the trend recently

has been towards salmon or

pale apricot versions.

Rosé can be produced

from any red grape variety.

Pinot Noir is the most

popular in New Zealand,

but Merlot, Tempranillo,

Syrah, the Cabernets and

blends are also widely used.

If colour is your thing,

choosing a bottle of

rosé is easy. Price is not

particularly indicative of

quality; however, if taste,

texture and palate pleasure

is a more exciting option,

a little more back label

reading or wine review

check will be needed.

Rosé can be made very

dry to dry, with most New

Zealand styles often justdry.

What was once the

medium to sweet option

is all but gone. Rosé’s invogue

status has ushered in

a selection of more serious

options, growing the range

on offer, both at retail and

on wine lists.

Winemakers looking

to produce a more

serious expression of rosé

pay particular attention

towards aroma, complexity

and structure for

example - using natural

fermentation for a portion

or all of the juice. The use

of older oak adds structure,

even extended skin

contact for more tannin

and grip (the trade-off is

more red pigment, but

remember all rosé colour

is valid). Even capturing

a layer of minerality

makes for more serious

drinking options.

Wineries that

specifically produce red

wine have the option to

change the juice-to-skin

ratio, allowing winemakers

to produce a darker

coloured wine. To achieve

this they need to bleed

away some juice. This

process is called Saignée

- a French term meaning

to ‘bleed’. The juice that is

‘bled’ away after an initial

12 – 24 hours skin contact

is used to make rosé.

Another option is when

the intended outcome

uses 100% of the juice

available to make a rosé.

The particular shade of

rosé a producer ends

up making depends on

skin contact, exposure to

oxygen and the use of oak

or wine barrels.

A ROSÉ BY ANY OTHER COLOUR TASTES

JUST AS SWEET – OR, THESE DAYS, DRY

42 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019

TASTING NOTES ROSÉ

Johanneshof Cellars Maybern Single

Vineyard Rosé 2017 Marlborough

An intriguing, attractive bouquet with a mix of minerality,

light red fruits and complexity. Dry, fine and fruity on the

palate with a mix of flavours and textures from red pear

and red apple, some old strawberry, red tea, medium+

acidity and mineral notes. Lengthy finish; balanced and

well made.

POINTS: 93

Contact: www.johanneshof.co.nz

RRP $25.00

ME by Matahiwi Estate Rosé 2018

Wairarapa

Plush, fruity and refreshingly fragrant bouquet of rosé.

Cherry and raspberry, sweet plum and rose. Crisp, fruity,

refreshing and dry on the finish. Fruit flavours reflect the

nose, lovely acid line and lightweight bright finish. Lots to

like, easy to drink. Best from today and through 2020.

POINTS: 92

Contact: www.matahiwi.co.nz

RRP $19.99

Toi Toi Sara’s Rosé 2018 Marlborough

From a noticeable onion skin hued appearance

comes aromas of apple and red plum, a hint of starwberry,

rose and saffron. Dry on the palate with flavours that mirror

the nose, ultra fine fruit tannins and bright acid line show off

the texture and European style this wine is. Dry on the finish

with best drinking from today and through 2021.

POINTS: 92

Contact: www.toitoiwines.co.nz

RRP $14.99

More next page>>

1 2

WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 43

TASTING NOTES ROSÉ

new zealand

is for future

generations

PTS

Vidal Reserve Rosé 2018 Hawke's Bay

Plush, juicy, fruity and inviting bouquet of

Rosé - red berries, sweet red plum and pomegranate.

Fleshy, juicy and ripe on the palate with strawberry and

cherry fruit highlights, plenty of crisp and refreshing acidity

with a satin texture and lengthy finish. Easy to drink in a

just-dry style, ready to enjoy between now and late 2019.

POINTS: 91

Contact: www.vidal.co.nz

RRP $19.99

Selaks The Taste Collection Berries and

Cream Rosé 2019 Hawke's Bay

Fresh, ripe, lush and vobrant bouquet of light red berry fruits,

rosehip tea and sweet air (just before the rain). Crisp, dry and

fruity with flavours of cherry and red berry fruits, cold fruit

tea and gentle fruit spice moments. Balanced and well made.

Drink now and through 2020.

POINTS: 89

Contact: www.selaks.co.nz

RRP $21.99

Hello Sailor Pinot Noir Rosé 2017

Marlborough

Fleshy fruity bouquet with strawberry, peach quench and

‘Raro’ tropical fruit mix. A floral and peach side adding an

abundance of freshness and familiarity. Crisp, fruity and dry

with all the flavours described above. A great summer drinking

choice - not too bold, not too serious, just fun. Best from today

and through 2019.

POINTS: 87

Contact: www.hellosailorwine.co.nz

RRP $18.99

4 5

SAVE OUR RAREST BIRDS

Toi Toi has partnered with Forest & Bird to help

save rare native birds like the orange fronted

kākāriki. A donation goes to support their work

with every bottle sold from our range.

Visit toitoiwines.co.nz for T&Cs

NEW ZEALAND WINE

44 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019

ORGANICS

Organic

Matters

AS SUSTAINABLE PLANTING AND GROWING METHODS BECOME

MORE AVAILABLE, ORGANIC WINE IS STARTING TO FIND ITS

Vineyard organics is a

philosophy, a way of

thinking translated

into a system that

sustains the health of our

ecosystems, both above and below

ground, and the people who

maintain the land.

The Maori term ‘Toitu’

explains the philosophy of

organics well – that land should

be eternally sustainable. The goals

of organics include healthy vines,

healthy grapes and great wine.

The growth of New Zealand

organic viticulture has been

significant over the past 15 years.

Around 10 percent of New

Zealand wine producers currently

hold organic certification for their

vineyards, with many more using

organic farming practices without

seeking certification. The focus

for these systems comes from

the philosophy that a vineyard

can work in harmony with the

rhythms and processes of nature.

The term ‘organic’ is often

used in everyday food and

beverage language for advertising

the health benefits of the product

to which it is attached. Long

PLACE IN THE MARKET

before ‘interventionist’ wine

growing and making became

common, organic practices

were the norm. Interventionist

(‘modern’) systems have been

used, and still are, to control

weeds, crop size and winemaking

practices. While there is nothing

wrong with this approach if

carefully managed, it may include

the use of particular equipment,

herbicides and pesticides,

fertilisers and practices that don’t

protect the soil’s natural health

and balance.

Biodynamics takes the ideas of

organics deeper, with a focus on

understanding and managing the

vineyard as an holistic organism.

Biodynamic methods include the

use of special plant, animal and

mineral preparations which are

used for disease prevention, soil

nourishment and pest control.

An awareness of the need to

care for the future that has led

to an increasing number of New

Zealand producers incorporating

organic practices. It has also been

proven that there are other longterm

benefits and potential cost

savings to be made. W

Loveblock Sauvignon Blanc

2018 Marlborough

Very attractive bouquet of organic and vegan

Sauvignon Blanc with a core of fruit then a leeslike

spice layer as well as a hint of vanilla. Silky

texture on the palate with flavours of citrus and

gooseberry, some tropical fruits and persimmon.

A tangerine peel note and wild flowers. Plenty

of acidity and lengthy finish. What a lovely wine!

Drink now and through 2022.

POINTS: 95

Contact: www.loveblockwine.com

RRP $21.99

Villa Maria Platinum Selection

Organic Pinot Noir 2017

Marlborough

Ripe, light red fruit aromas deliver freshness and

ripeness on the nose. Suggestions of raspberry

and redcurrant, cherry and red apple. Gentle wood

spices emerge as it relaxes in glass, with a moderate

toasty signature. Dry on palate, with plenty of core

fruit. Youthful, fresh and vibrant, with vibrant fine

tannins, toasty wood and brown spices, gently

warming alcohol and fruit-led finish. Balanced; lots

to like. Drink now and through 2024.

POINTS: 92

Contact: www.villamariawines..com

RRP $29.99

Loveblock Pinot Gris 2018

Marlborough

Enticing Gris; fleshy and juicy white peach, pear

and yellow apple aromas in this organic vegan

wine. Noticeable white pepper and light lees layer,

suggesting ginger and barley sugar. Just dry on the

palate, with flavours reflecting the nose, bright white

spice note returns. Drink now and through 2020.

POINTS: 89

Contact: www.loveblockwine.com

RRP $21.99

1 2 3

WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 45

Label

Language

WHETHER YOU BUY YOUR WINE ONLINE, A LOCAL LIQUOR

OUTLET OR SPECIALIST WINE STORE, YOUR PURCHASE

DECISIONS ARE ALWAYS - OR AT LEAST - MADE PARTLY ON TRUST.

CAMERON UNCOVERS SOME OF THE SECRETS BEHIND THE

MEANING OF WINE LABELS

I’m often asked to decode or

explain wine label language

- from grape variety and

pronunciation, to back

label wording and the meaning

behind stickers.

All wine sold in New Zealand,

including imported wine, must

follow the labelling and composition

rules and requirements of the Food

Standards Australia New Zealand

(FSANZ) code.

If a wine label announces a

grape variety or varieties, a vintage

or region of origin statement

(for example, Chardonnay 2018

Marlborough), this means 85% of the

variety, vintage and geography must

be as stated. Producers can vary the

other 15% - perhaps including the

use of other varieties, regions and

vintages to complete aroma, palate

feel and balance – though most

wines are 100% as stated.

ADDITIVES

Most, if not all, wine is clear, with no

haze or unusual-looking suspended

matter. During vinification, most

winemakers use a substance to

assist in making a wine clear and

consumer ready.

A growing number of people

now react to additives in food and

beverage products, and many make

lifestyle choices around animal

products. Reactions to additives in

wine are actually extremely rare

(current research supports this).

• Fish products, typically isinglass,

may be used to remove tannins,

making wine feel softer and

more balanced.

• Egg white, or albumen may

also be used for the same effect,

removing tannin, particularly in

red wine.

• Milk and milk products are used

to remove compounds associated

with bitterness and browning.

“Preservative 220’ is

a common term for the

use of sulphites”

According to the New Zealand

MPI (Ministry for Primary

Industries), a wine label must include

an allergen declaration, if milk, egg

and fish (except isinglass, which is

not an allergan) are present.

All wine is decanted off any

sediments before bottling so any

trace amounts are extremely low.

If a label states ‘bottled unfined’

this will indicate that a wine has not

been subject to any of the processes

listed above, keeping the texture of

the wine as the winemaker intended.

As a taster you may notice more

complexity and texture.

Many wines are passed through a

filter or membrane before bottling,

rendering it clear. The winemaker

may choose not to filter the

wine, to keep a particular texture

and complexity.

Additives like sulphites are used as

part of the bottling process for wine,

and trace amounts may remain in

the wine. A label may say ‘Contains

sulphites’ (very common, but used in

extremely tiny amounts). Sulphites

and sulphur are natural elements,

modified to be used as liquid or gas

to stave off or neutralise bacteria,

and slow the effects of oxygen on

wine. If preservatives are used (usual

practice) then this must be declared

on the label.

VEGAN AND ORGANIC

Vegan wines are increasingly popular.

This means there are no animalbased

agents like milk, fish or gelatin

used in the winemaking, stabilisation

or filtering process. I am frequently

asked about the status of sulphites –

they are 100% vegan.

‘Organic’ or ‘biodynamic’ refers

to philosophies around grape-

46 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019

INSIDE VOICES

growing and winemaking. No

chemical pesticides, herbicides and

manufactured fertilisers are used

in or around the vineyard and

winery, nor are artificial additives,

making these wines a good choice

for wine drinkers sensitive to

particular compounds. Biodynamic

wineries follow the lunar calendar,

apply particular tea preparations,

homemade compost and other plant

life to enhance soil health, and for

weed control and vine growth.

The organic movement in New

Zealand is significant enough that

increasing numbers of producers

practice. Some wonderful examples

pass through my tasting table (see

page 45).

FINE WINES OF NEW

ZEALAND

Some of the best wines in New

Zealand are regularly rated by wellknown

critics, or through wine

competition events (though there

are select wineries who don’t enter,

for many reasons including supersmall

production or already sold

out production). The most recent

addition to the review process here

has been the Fine Wines of New

Zealand programme, of which I am

a proud member (see marked bottles

in my Tasting Notes). This Air New

Zealand-supported programme

is available to producers of wine

in New Zealand. It is not a wine

competition, but an opportunity to

showcase current release wines to a

team of local Masters of Wine and a

Master Sommelier (yours truly).

If the wines meet the rigid

standards, samples of older vintages

are also reviewed to demonstrate

potential longevity and style

consistency. There are no gold

stickers – rather a recognition

of prestige and confirmation

from some experienced and

knowledgeable palates that the

wine represents the best from New

Zealand, making it an excellent

purchase decision. W

Scores & Stickers

There are a plethora of brightlycoloured

award stickers. In the

very competitive world of wine

any recognition of quality a

producer receives can become very

important, so it pays to be aware of

the meaning and significance (or

otherwise) of these accolades.

Some wine lovers will talk to their

friends or a trusted sommelier,

some to wine store hosts - others

regularly read wine reviews and

scores to assist in their decisions.

Displaying scores and accolades

by way of stickers on the bottle

can unquestionably be a successful

marketing tool - those gold, silver or

bronze decals draw attention, and a

high score or critic review can be a

recipe for successful sales.

But. What do all these scores,

stickers and reviews mean for you?

Wine scoring originated in wine

competitions to allow a group of

judges to recognise quality wine

by using a relative scale. Many

wine writers and critics adopted

the strategy for their own reviews –

these days I, like many others, use

the one hundred point scale (see

page 7), though some use the 20

Point, or *star* awards. An 88/100

score generally equals a very nice

wine, equivalent to a bronze in a

wine show. On the same scale,

95/100 equals an excellent wine –

which will translate to a gold sticker if

that is offered (silver sits between).

The Star system is also recognised

by consumers. It’s an easy-to-follow,

simple for consumers to understand

system (for example, 3.5 Stars would

be a recommended wine and 5 Stars

an excellent example).

Some wine producers choose to

display layers of stickers, or worse

- make labels littered with stickers

in the design. I am not a fan of

this approach.

Take care to read stickers – while

some represent a genuine review

from a recognised critic, wine

competition, or reputable magazine

panel, others may simply refer to an

award the winery has received.

WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 47

SPARKLING WINES

Modern

Methodes

Unwrapping

the foil, six half

twists of the wire,

hold the cork

and turn the bottle; the pressure

builds and then…. a gentle sigh

(or pop!) as the pressure equalises

with the outside world. You’ve

just opened a bottle of happiness -

sparkling wine.

For many of us, sparkling wine is the

wine of celebration, to toast an occasion

or to gift to a special person. Whatever the

reason for buying bubbles, we are spoiled for

choice when it comes to producers and price.

Great sparkling shows elegance, finesse, poise

and tension, white fleshed fruits and citrus, a fine

mousse texture with a gazillion bubbles and a long

complex finish.

The best New Zealand sparkling wines are produced

using the Methode Traditionnelle process. Only the French

region of Champagne can use the term Champagne and

the Methode Champenoise process. New Zealand bottled

fermented sparkling wines use the Methode Traditionnelle

process – which is exactly the same as the French. Typically

made from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in New Zealand, base

wines are blended then refermented in bottle, aged on yeast lees

for 12 to 48 months (or longer) then disgorgement of yeast - the

process of removing the spent yeast from the bottle after the

ageing process is complete. Style created (Brut Nature, Brut or

Demi-Sec are common), the cork is wired down, then it’s label

on, and off to market. W

Cameron’s

Top Tipples

These are my top fifteen.

• NO1 Family Estate Reserve

Blanc de Blancs NV

• Quartz Reef Blanc de

Blancs 2013

• Nautilus Marlborough Cuvée Brut NV

• Cloudy Bay Pelorus Rosé NV

• Deutz Blanc de Blancs 2015

• Tohu Rewa Rosé 2015

• Aotea Methode Traditionnelle NV

• Hunter's MiruMiru Reserve 2015

• Akarua Brut 2015

• Akarua Rosé Brut NV

• NO1 Family Estate Cuvée Adele 2013

• NO1 Family Estate Cuvée Remy 2013

• Quartz Reef Rosé NV

• Palliser Estate The Griffin 2015

48 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019

n 1971 our father Hermann arrived in New Zealand with a dream

of making great wines. He and our mother Agnes, pioneered

modern winemaking in the Nelson region, planting the first vines and

in 1976 producing their first wines. Now over 40 years later we celebrate

their vision, and the arrival of the next generation, our children, who are

growing up in the vineyard and winery. Our family, and very dedicated

team are proud to craft internationally renowned wines in this very special

corner of the world. Wines made for sharing.

NELSON MÉTHODE TRADITIONNELLE NV

AWARDED

Champion Sparkling Wine

Gold Medal

Air New Zealand Wine Awards 2017

“Exquisitely expressed and supremely elegant with white

stone-fruit, lemon bread and yeasty characters, wonderfully

enhanced by fine texture and zesty acidity.”

Judges Comments, Air NZ Wine Awards 2017

www.seifried.co.nz

@seifriedestate

TASTING NOTES BUBBLES

Akarua Rosé Brut Non

Vintage Marlborough

A beautiful bouquet of rosé with

aromas of crushed strawberry, red

cherry and red apple. A core of

autolysis suggests biscuit and bread

with a soft ginger spice moment. Dry,

explosive mousse, packed with red fruit

and peach flavours, some mandarin

peel and yeasty messages. High acidity,

crisp, dry, lengthy, balanced and well

made. Lots to love. Drink now and

through 2026.

POINTS: 95

Contact: www.akarua.com

RRP $38.00

Nautilus Cuvée

Brut Non-Vintage

Marlborough

Complex and enticing bouquet with a

light savoury core surrounded by aromas

and flavours white peach, an array of

citrus and strawberry. Dry, silky, fleshy,

fruity, savoury and complex. Very fine

mousse with high acidity, a soft brioche

and yeasty layer, balanced lengthy finish.

Drink now and through 2026.

POINTS: 95

Contact: www.nautilusestate.com

RRP $44.95

Hunter's MiruMiruTM

Reserve 2015

Marlborough

A bouquet of a wine that is ready to

enjoy. Integrated aromas of peach and

apple, a nutty autolysis and minerality.

Bold and expressive mousse on the palate

carrying and emphasising flavours of

baked stone-fruits, strawberry, apple and

a biscuity brioche warmth. Abundant

acidity and concentration ensures this

wine will continue to age for the next few

years. Drink now and through 2024.

POINTS: 92

Contact: www.hunters.co.nz

RRP $38.90

Palliser Estate The Griffin

2015 Martinborough

Complex bouquet of sparkling wine

centering on a brioche and biscuity

autolysis followed by scents of white

strawberry, citrus and white flowers.

Dry, weighty, fruity and very tasty

on the palate. Flavours reflect the

nose with a white fleshed fruits core,

a delicate mineral layer, refreshingly

crisp mousse and precise lengthy finish.

Apertif style, great with food. Drink

now and through 2025.

POINTS: 91

Contact: www.palliser.co.nz

RRP $53.00

5 Hunter's MiruMiruTM Non

Vintage Marlborough

Lovely bouquet with a fruity, leesy

attack, some spice and balanced

bottled development complexity. Crisp

and dry with a lemon and crunchy

apple flavours, a soft yeasty quality

and fine mousse. Balanced and well

made. A wine to please many who like

bubbles. Drink now and through 2022.

POINTS: 91

Contact: www.hunters.co.nz

RRP $28.90

Pask Declaration

Methode Traditionnelle

2010 Hawke’s Bay

A bold and rich bouquet packed with

a nutty, yeasty and yellow stone-fruits.

Dry, firm and crisp on the palate with

flavours of lemon, apple and custard

brioche. Quite weighty and fullbodied

richness. With some bottle

development and nutty spice layers,

a wine with some complexity and

intrigue. Drink now and through 2022.

POINTS: 90

Contact: www.pask.co.nz

RRP $30.00

1 2 3 4 5 6

50 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019

A Giesen Wine For All Occasions.

CONTACT YOUR GIESEN GROUP REPRESENTATIVE OR PHONE 03 344 6270

Aromatically

Speaking

All wines have aroma, a

signature set of smells

that define the variety or

blend of varieties used.

Winemaking techniques such as the use

of oak or extra time spent on lees post

ferment contribute to the final package

of smells referred to as ‘aroma’.

The term ‘aromatic’ refers to a

specific category of white grape

varieties which contain an extra set of

naturally-occurring compounds called

‘terpenes’. Terpenes enhance, even

amplify the spice, fruit and floral scents

of wine. This makes them particularly

distinctive. Terpenes emerge in certain

varieties to a greater or lesser degree

based on growing conditions such as

soil, climate and viticulture practices.

The following wines are all classified

as aromatic or semi-aromatic and are

readily available in New Zealand:

Wurzer, Gewürztraminer, Muscat,

Torrontes, Albarino, Riesling, Muller

Thurgau and Pinot Gris. These wines

are floral, fruity and can be quite

intense on both the nose and palate

with moderate acidity. Textures ranges

from soft and creamy to satin or silky

and crisp.

Gewürztraminer is the most intense

and exotic of the aromatic varieties

with flavours of tropical fruits, roses

and spices. Descriptors such as lavender,

talcum powder, pineapple, white pepper

and even apple strudel have been used

to describe the wine.

If you’re a whiz in the kitchen and

keen on food to serve with aromatic

wines, look to lush, creamy dishes. Paté,

tofu or cream of pumpkin soup work

deliciously well, while wet textured

proteins such as pork or sous-vide

chicken and turkey are an excellent

match. Asian cuisine is a common

pairing with aromatic varieties, but be

careful to stick to fragrant spiced menu

items, like lemongrass and galangal.

Heat spices in Asian dishes in general

inflame the spice and alcohol in the

wine, rendering the pairings impossible.

Wines that have a noticeable residual

sweetness such as an off-dry Riesling

often work well with spicy dishes. W

52 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019

TASTING NOTES AROMATICS

Pegasus Bay Bel Canto

Riesling 2017 North

Canterbury

Complex and vibrant bouquet of

Riesling with aromas then flavours of

lemon flesh, pith & zest, green and red

apple with a pungent honeysuckle,

mandarin and limeflower core. Pristine

acid line, great weight and texture,

youthful with a long complex finish.

Best from 2021 through 2031.

POINTS: 95

Contact: www.pegasusbay.com

RRP $37.00

Churton Petit Manseng

2016 Marlborough

Very specific bouquet; exotic, individual

and captivating. Quince, baked pineapple

and candied fruits. Floral, fresh, youthful

and complex. Delicious on the palate

with an electric acidity, plush and exotic

flavours, quite sweet, but well balanced,

lengthy persistent finish. Lots of

sweetness to enjoy; great with a rhubarb

clafoutis. Drink now and through 2024.

POINTS: 95

Contact: www.churton-wines.co.nz

RRP $43.99

3 Johanneshof

Gewürztraminer 2018

Marlborough

Fragrant and complex, subtle and layered,

fruity and varietal. A well defined and

fine example of this variety with layers of

tree and tropical fruits, roses, elderflower,

spices and gentle creamy texture. A

delicious wine with a core of minerality,

some white pepper-laced pear, quince

and apple, honeysuckle and rose. Elegant

and ready. Drink now and through 2022.

POINTS: 94

Contact: www.johanneshof.co.nz

RRP $35.00

Askerne Reserve

Gewürztraminer 2018

Hawke’s Bay

A complex and interesting bouquet,

with aromas of dried herbs and spices,

then baked pineapple, pear and

apple. Dry on the palate, with a dried

herb-led package of flavours, lemon

and apple, tropical fruits and flowers,

complex. Fairly lengthy finish, nicely

balanced and well made. Drink now

and through 2021.

POINTS: 93

Contact: www.askernewines.co.nz

RRP $29.90

5 Loveblock

Gewürztraminer 2018

Marlborough

Fragrant, floral, fruity, spicy and very

attractive bouquet of this vegan

Gewürztraminer. Flavours of whitefleshed

fruits, rice pudding, white

flowers and baking spices, a soft

herbaceous layer and white stone

mineral core. Weighty and creamy,

lengthy and delicious. Perfect wine

for Peking Duck. Drink now and

through 2023.

POINTS: 93

Contact: www.loveblockwine.com

RRP $21.99

Giesen Gemstone

Riesling 2018

Marlborough

Totally enticing aromas of Riesling,

with mandarin and lime flower, apple

and lemon. Off-dry, with a noticeable

residual sweetness, refreshing acidity,

a light creamy texture and flavours

that reflect the nose. Drink now and

through 2025.

POINTS: 92

Contact: www.giesenwines.co.nz

RRP $18.99

More next page>>

1 2 3 4 5 6

WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 53

TASTING NOTES AROMATICS

Tohu Whenua Matua

Single Vineyard Albariño

2017 Upper Moutere, Nelson

An immediate appeal on the nose;

exotic aromas of fruit tree blossom

and peach, orange piko tea, apple and

lemon curd. Exotic too on the palate -

honesuckle and fruit spice, peach then

lemon, orange piko tea and ginger spice

with lees complexity. Nice weight with

a core of fruit and contrasting acidity. A

seamless transition on the palate from

stonefruit to citrus and a lengthy finish.

Drink now and through 2022.

POINTS: 92

www.tohuwines.co.nz/whenuaseries

RRP $29.99

Old Coach Road Riesling

2017 Nelson

Aromas and flavours of ripe sweet citrus

and apricot stone. A simple yet fragrant

wine with fresh crunchy textures from

high acidity and wet stone minerality.

Refreshing, just dry, loads of flavour with

white peach, a touch of green tea and

lemon. Ideal as an aperitif or with simple

appetisers such as oysters and mussels.

Drink now and through 2022.

POINTS: 91

Contact: www.seifried.co.nz

RRP $13.00

Palliser Estate Riesling

2018 Wairarapa

A really lovely bouquet of Riesling with

aromas and flavours of white rose and

lemon, crunchy apple with a leaning

towards Granny Smith, white apricot, wet

stone and soft silty mineral undertone.

Plenty of acidity, crisp, refreshing

and dry on the finish. Drink now and

through 2024.

POINTS: 91

Contact: www.palliser.co.nz

RRP $25.00

Yealands Estate Single

Estate Gewürztraminer

2018 Awatere Valley

Very fragrant, floral, fruity varietal, with

aromas of honeysuckle and white peach,

roses and sweet lychee, pears and apples

and loads of spice. Really nice silky

texture on the palate with flavours that

match the nose, medium acidity and a

lengthy calm finish, always returning to

the spice layer. Balanced and well made.

Drink now and through 2022.

POINTS: 91

Contact: www.yealands.co.nz

RRP $25.00

Yealands Estate Single

Vineyard Riesling 2018

Awatere Valley

Floral, precise and fruity bouquet with

aromas and flavours of lemon and

white peach, ripe green apple and rose.

Crisp and dry, lightweight on the palate

and refreshingly lengthy finish. A lovely

aperitif option and great with delicate

seafoods or summer salads. Drink now

and through 2026.

POINTS: 90

Contact: www.yealands.co.nz

RRP $25.00

Loveblock Riesling 2014

Marlborough

Varietal, fruity and floral with aromas

of green apple, lemon and jasmine.

Off-dry on the palate with a noticeable

sweetness and flavours that mirror ther

nose. Very youthful with a nervous

tension from the acidity contrasted

by lemon and apple flavours. Decent

length and finish. Best to wait a year or

two before exploring this wine again -

2021 through 2026 should be best.

POINTS: 88

Contact: www.loveblockwine.com

RRP $21.99

7 8 9 10 11 12

54 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019

RED WINES

I see

red!

SELECTING THE APPROPRIATE RED WINE FOR AN OCCASION OR

MEMORABLE MOMENT IS VERY PERSONAL, DEPENDING ON YOUR

PARTICULAR STYLE OR TASTE. DO SOME HOMEWORK TO HELP YOU

DISCOVER SOMETHING DIFFERENT - YOU WON'T REGRET IT

When it comes to

diversity and quality,

our NZ red wines

are pretty impressive.

Pinot Noir is a good example. It has

a wonderful way of reflecting the site

where it is grown or a thread of flavour

that the producer likes to harness. The

use of whole-bunch (as opposed to

de-stemmed) fruit as a percentage of

the finished wine is quite common.

So too is the use of oak and how long

the wine matures for in barrel, which

impacts heavily on the final taste. Less

preservative at bottling, un-fined and

unfiltered are two more influences of

texture and taste. All these ideas speak

to the style, flavour and expression

that a producer is trying to convey.

Two example Pinots Noir that will

allow your adventurous side to take

charge are Grasshopper Rock and

Lowburn Ferry.

Syrah is the jewel in the vinous

crown of New Zealand. The variety

has been part of our wine scene for

some time, but has lived somewhat

in the shadow of Pinot Noir and

Cabernet. Not anymore. Northland,

Waiheke Island, Gisborne, Hawke's

Bay, Wairarapa and Marlborough all

have excellent examples to consider.

The aroma and taste profile of Syrah is

somewhat particular though with black

currant and spices, raspberry and aged

meats, pepper, violets, bold tannins and

a backbone of acidity. An excellent food

wine for sure. Two must try examples

include Villa Maria’s Reserve and

Te Mata Estate Bullnose. W

WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 55

Pinosity

OF ALL NEW ZEALAND WINES, PINOT NOIR IS ARGUABLY

THE MOST FAMOUS, AND DIVERSE, OF THEM ALL

Pinot Noir really is

‘Romance in a Glass’.

Sommeliers and

wine professionals,

collectors of fine wine and

even beginners to wine

appreciation fall in love with

Pinot Noir time and time

again. The are many reasons

why, but most of them centre

on the beguiling and seductive

scents Pinot Noir can reveal.

Cherry, strawberry and

raspberry flavours of every

kind, colour and ripeness,

to organic and inorganic

minerality, mushroom, truffle,

and baking spices. Fine to

chalky tannins, layers of oak

and subtle wood smoke all

play their part in creating the

synergy and tease that can

make Pinot so enticing.

Pinot Noir takes time to

get used to. Some examples,

often the best ones, are led by

stubborn tannins, outspoken

acidity, whole-bunch and a

savoury attack - to the point

that the core of pure fruit can

be missed. Pinot Noir is often

not drinkable upon release,

because the tannins and acidity

overpower the finer textures

and harmonies that come from

bottle age and integration.

Ultimately, finding Pinots Noir

that are drinkable soon, versus

those requiring cellar time,

will take both a budget - and

patience - to taste through the

range available. A few shortcuts

can be made by reading wine

notes and reviews of wine

commentators that you trust. W

WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 57

TASTING NOTES PINOT NOIR

Akarua The Siren Pinot

Noir 2016 Central Otago

Varietal, youthful, specific and captivating

bouquet with voices of place and fruit, a

steely raw energy, very specific barrel use

with spice white smoke qualities. There's a

‘je ne sais quoi’ attribute as well - a certain

synergy of floral and mineral. A core of fruit

and sweet oak flavours on the palate; spices,

flowers and harmony. Long finish, complex

and excellent. Best window for drinking

2020 through 2030.

POINTS: 97

Contact: www.akarua.com

RRP $110.00

Ostler Caroline's Pinot Noir

2016 Waitaki Valley

Complex, attractive and layered bouquet.

Mineral then fruit, wood smoke and dark

spices. Fantastic on the palate with a core of

dark cherry and plum, oak spices and a core

of minerality. Very floral, dried herbs and

tea. Chalky tannins, vibrant youthful texture,

long finish. A fantastic wine. Best from 2022

through 2030+.

POINTS: 97

Contact: www.ostlerwine.co.nz

RRP $65.00

Quartz Reef Pinot Noir

2017 Central Otago

Complex, youthful core of fruit and wood

spices. Layers of dried herb and exotic tea.

Dry and equally complex on the palate with

flavours that mirror the nose, plus many more

emerging and evolving as the wine opens up in

the glass. Firm youthful tannins and acidity to

match, a core of fruit and minerality suggesting

crushed rocks. Dried herb, layers of wood

spice, lengthy finish, youthful and dry. Best

from 2022 through 2032.

POINTS: 96

Contact: www.quartzreef.co.nz

RRP $$65.00

Domain Road Defiance

Pinot Noir 2016 Central

Otago

A complex bouquet, with ripe dark berries

and baking spices, a core of dark cherry,

baked raspberry, clove and vanilla, smoked

wood and violet. Equally complex on the

palate with flavours that mirror the nose. The

core of red berry fruit flavours underpins

layers of texture from firm youthful tannins

and acidity, new oak and flavour synergies

that can only come from excellent fruit and

proper winemaking. Complex lengthy finish.

Drink from 2020 through 2030+.

POINTS: 96

Contact: www.domainroad.co.nz

RRP $65.00

Villa Maria Single Vineyard

Taylors Pass Pinot Noir 2013

Marlborough

Fantastic complex and engaging bouquet of

Pinot Noir, with flavours of wild red berries

of the forest, savoury baking and wood

spices and a deep engaging complexity.

Dry, savoury detailed and delicious with a

core of fruit and appealing texture from fine

abundant tannins and plenty of acidity. Long

complex finish. Best from 2019 through 2029.

POINTS: 96

Contact: www.villamariawines.com

RRP $59.99

Tohu Whenua Awa Single

Vineyard Pinot Noir 2017

Awatere Valley Marlborough

Smoky with a core of red fruits, baking

spices, dark cherry, raspberry and plum,

then rose and red zinger tea. Dry on the

palate with a core of fruit, exotic red tea,

firm chalky tannins and plenty of acidity.

The oak and smoky wood suggestions layer

in on the finish, highlighting a dried herb

and stony mineral suggestion. Well made,

complex and lengthy. Cellar time needed

to complete the integration of flavours and

textures.

POINTS: 96

Contact: www.tohuwines.co.nz/

whenuaseries

RRP $41.99

China Girl by Crown Range

Cellar Pinot Noir Pinot Noir

2016 Central Otago

Complex bouquet of Pinot Noir with exotic

barrel spices, a Central Otago core of

raspberry and dark red cherry fruits, smoky

French oak and soft wild thyme. Equally

complex and intense on the palate with

textures of chalky tannins and medium+

acidity, crushed schist and flinty mineral

earthy qualities then a core of red berry

fruits. Varietal, youthful, tense and poised for

cellar ageing. Balanced and well made. Best

drinking from 2021 through 2028.

POINTS: 95

Contact: www.crownrangecellar.com

RRP $69.99

More next page>>

58 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019

Discover perfection within

www.nautilusestate.com

Drink responsibly

WINE AND FOOD

Warm in

Winter

A GOOD MULLED WINE

REQUIRES A FRUITY FLAVOUR

BASE FIRST AND FOREMOST

MULLED WINE

Ingredients

→ 1 bottle Selaks Reserve Merlot

Cabernet

→ 1 orange, peeled (reserve zest) and

thinly sliced

→ 3-4 slices thinly-cut lemon, peeled

(reserve zest)

→ 1 cinnamon stick

→ 8 cloves

→ 2 star anise

→ 3 cardamom pods, lightly crushed

to release scent

→ 1 bay leaf

→ 2 tablespoons brown sugar (more if

you like it sweet)

Method

Preheat oven to 120°. Spread

orange and lemon zests evenly on

a lined baking tray and bake gently

for 30 minutes. Meanwhile, pour

Selaks Reserve Merlot Cabernet

into a saucepan. Add the orange

slices, cinnamon, cloves, star anise,

cardamom and bay leaf. Heat until

warm and barely simmering, do

not boil.

Simmer wine for at least 30 minutes,

longer is fine. Add the brown sugar,

stir to dissolve and then taste. Strain

to remove spices and serve with

baked zests to garnish.

Cam’s Wine Match

A recipe for great mulled wine requires a decent

wine base on which to build a seductive aroma and

flavour base. The Selaks Reserve Merlot Cabernet

steps up nicely, with a core of dark berry and plum

fruit flavours to contrast the recipes aromatic

spices. The wine’s back bone of acidity and fine

tannins add additional tactile elements for a decent winter imbibe.

60 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019

TASTING NOTES PINOT NOIR

Domain Road Paradise

Pinot Noir 2015 Central

Otago

Complex bouquet of Pinot Noir with

strawberry and red cherry, plum, old rose,

dried herb, thyme and brown spices,

combined with some bottle age. Equally

complex on the palate, with layers of

flavours and textures from roses and plums

to cherry and rose, tea and brown spices.

Fine tannins, abundant and chalky. Medium

acidity, plenty of oak, balanced and well

made with a long finish. Drink now and

through 2025.

POINTS: 95

Contact: www.domainroad.co.nz

RRP $85.00

Greystone Vineyard

Fermented Pinot Noir 2017

North Canterbury

Complex and interesting bouquet. Aromas

of old rose and tea, sweet cherry and old

orchard apple, hints of leather and spice,

loaded with clay and limestone-like mineral

voices and just a little bit sexy. Dry, firm,

youthful, textured and packed with charm

and a little mystery. Chalky tannins, plenty

of acidity, lengthy persistent finish. Very nice

wine. Drink now and through 2025.

POINTS: 95

Contact: www.greystonewines.co.nz

RRP $75.00

Holly Matahiwi Pinot Noir

2018 Wairarapa

Lovely bouquet with a smoky, darker berry

bouquet, dark cherry and strawberry,

clove and vanilla wood spices. Complex.

Very youthful and dry on the palate with

flavours that mirror the nose. Plenty of

texture from fruit and wood tannins and

flavours from the oak of smoke and brown

baking spices. Nice finish. Youthful. Ready

in a year or two. Decant if drinking before

2022. Best from then and until 2028.

POINTS: 94

Contact: www.matahiwi.co.nz

RRP $39.99

Kumeu River Hunting Hill

Pinot Noir 2017 Auckland

One of the few Pinots Noir produced in

Auckland, this wine has an old-world feel

about it, with an earthy mineral core, red

cherry and cranberry with a strawberry

moment and complex oak flavours. The

texture is vibrant and youthful, with fine

to moderate tannins reflective of both

fruit and oak, balanced acid line and long

finish. The complexity builds as the wine

opens up in glass. A wine to savour and

enjoy now and through 2025.

POINTS: 95

Contact: www.kumeuriver.co.nz

RRP $50.00

Palliser Estate Pinot Noir

2018 Martinborough

Reflecting its origins, the bouquet shows

off a core of minerality then fresh red

berry fruit aromas, cherry and strawberry.

Fine chalky tannins, ripe and refreshing

acidity, no mistaking the use of oak, but

well placed. Lengthy mineral based finish.

Drink now and through 2026.

POINTS: 94

Contact: www.palliser.co.nz

RRP $59.00

Pegasus Prima Donna

Pinot Noir 2015 North

Canterbury

Beguiling and attractive bouquet with

alluring scents of new season raspberry,

plum compote and wild berries. Very

youthful, raw and new with an oak-centric

layer on the palate, contrasting fruit,

tannins need time to integrate, plenty of

acidity. A wine that needs a peaceful rest

in your cellar still, with best drinking 2021

through 2027+.

POINTS: 95

Contact: www.pegasusbay.co.nz

RRP $95.00

Pyramid Valley Angel

Flower Pinot Noir 2016

North Canterbury

Flowers, brown spices, earth and mineral

moments, tea and pressed roses - the

very nature of the bouquet is one of

complexity and intrigue. On the palate:

complex, dry, savoury and earthy. Flavours

reflect the bouquet, texture is something

different - more savoury and intense

with dried herb and fine tannins, a natural

level of acidity and complexity. Long and

intriguing finish. Well made, youthful and

natural. Drink now and through 2026+.

POINTS: 95

Contact: www.pyramidvalley.co.nz

RRP $125.00

More next page>>

WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 61

TASTING NOTES PINOT NOIR

Tohu Whenua Matua Single

Vineyard Pinot Noir Upper

Moutere Nelson

A pinosity-packed bouquet; aromas of red apple

and rose, tea and red cherry. Clove and vanilla

spices are intense, with a French oaky toasty wood

complexity. Delicious on the palate; quite dry with

firm tannins and plenty of acidity; a core of fruits

and oak, with some minerality layer. Youthful,

medium weight and complex. Decant for service;

best drinking late 2021 through 2027.

POINTS: 95

Contact: www.tohuwines.co.nz/whenuaseries

RRP $34.99

Villa Maria Single Vineyard

The Attorney Pinot Noir 2015

Marlborough

Bright, fresh, sophisticated and youthful, with aromas

of dark cherry, red apple and plum, some vanilla

and lighter clove brown spice notes, complex and

engaging. Dry, firm and youthful. Flavours reflect

the nose, enhanced by elegant-yet-firm tannins

and medium+ acidity. Youthful, needing some

cellar time. Decant for service. Best from late 2019

through 2026.

POINTS: 95

Contact: www.villamariawines.com

RRP $69.99

Akitu A1 Pinot Noir 2016

Central Otago

A richly-scented bouquet of Pinot Noir with aromas

of dark berries, wood spices, wild thyme and a

core of savoury complexity. Plum and dark cherry,

blackcurrant and wildflowers, stony, rocky outcrop

minerality. Youthful, tense, firm and focused textures

on the palate with flavours that reflect the nose -

dark berries then wood spices, some wild thyme and

undergrowth moments. Youthful tannins and acid

line. Lengthy finish, dry, well made, youthful. Best

from 2021 through 2029.

POINTS: 94

Contact: www.akitu.wine

RRP $60.00

Akitu A2 Central Otago 2017

Central Otago

Youthfully vibrant and fruity bouquet, with aromas

of raspberries, dark cherries, red apple and savoury

mineral combinations. Some spicy oak suggestions

add complexity. Equally vibrant on the palate with

flavours which mirror the nose, abundant fruit and

oak tannins. Acidity and oak add additional texture.

A wine to enjoy today if decanted, otherwise best

from 2020 through 2026.

POINTS: 94

Contact: www.akitu.wine

RRP $45.00

Auntsfield Single Vineyard

Pinot Noir 2017 Marlborough

Rich and vibrant colour with aromas and flavours

of plums, dark cherries and oak to match the

power of the bouquet and colour. Dry, with

abundant core of fruit with fruit & oak tannins,

plenty of acidity and long finish. A powerful,

rich and complex example. Best from 2020

through 2030.

POINTS: 94

Contact: www.auntsfield.co.nz

RRP $45.00

Domain Road Single Vineyard

Pinot Noir 2017 Central Otago

Lovely Pinot Noir bouquet; aromas of dark red

berries, violets and roses; baking spices, dried

herb and dry stone minerality. Quite complex but

youthful. Nice on the palate with a mix of wild red

fruits, tart dark cherry and dried raspberry. Firm,

youthful tannins, abundant acidity and core of

fruit; perfect for longevity. Noticeable oak and

spice layers, well made and a lengthy finish. Best

from 2021 through 2029.

POINTS: 94

Contact: www.domainroad.co.nz

RRP $40.00

Pyramid Valley Earth Smoke

Pinot Noir 2016 New Zealand

A distinctive bouquet: earth, steely and haunting,

with aromas of soil, fresh and pressed flowers,

tea and mixed red berry fruits. Dry on the palate

with silty soil and fine tanning textures, balanced

acidity and flavours melding with the bouquet. A

thinker's Pinot Noir, with a lengthy finish. Drink

now and through 2022.

POINTS: 94

Contact: www.pyramidvalley.co.nz

RRP $125.00

Te Mata Alma Pinot Noir 2018

Hawke's Bay

An expressive, velvety bouquet with youthful

power and energy, and a core of fruit, oak and

savoury complexity. Perfectly weighted on the

palate; dry, savoury and fruity with plum, cherry

and spice. Whispers of dark rose and stony

minerality. Unmistakable oak impact and whole

bunch approach, but with enough weight and fruit

to carry it. A young wine with a complexity that

should carry well into bottle development phase.

Best decanted for service with ideal drinking 2021

through 2026.

POINTS: 94

Contact: www.temata.co.nz

RRP $60.00

62 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019

TASTING NOTES PINOT NOIR

Wooing Tree Pinot Noir 2017

Central Otago

Distinctive bouquet with a smoky, fruity core

and enticing complexity. Flavours of dark

cherry and black rose, black currant and vanilla,

plum and crushed stone. Dry with a plenty of

tannins and acidity, youthful and developing

complexities. Very young still needing cellar

time. Best from 2022 through 2030.

POINTS: 94

Contact: www.wooingtree.co.nz

RRP $48.00

Luna Estate Pinot Noir 2017

Martinborough

Complex and enticing bouquet of Pinot, with

layers of new oak, ripe red berry fruits, baking

spices and earthy - mushroom and silty clay

layers. On the palate: dry with textures and

flavours reflective of the nose; raspberry and

dried strawberry, cherry then earthy moments

of mushroom and soil; decent amount of oak,

firmer youthful tannins. Well made; drink now

and through 2026.

POINTS: 93

Contact: www.lunaestate.co.nz

RRP $26.00

Te Mata Estate Vineyards

Pinot Noir 2018 Hawke's Bay

Immediately varietal, tense, focused bouquet.

Dark cherry, a host of light red berry fruit,

savoury note and fresh baking spices. Dry and

youthful on the palate, with a core of fruit and

savoury spice. Firm tannins and acidity; there's

no mistaking the oak, even at 15% new; spice

and sweetness alongside the savoury whole

bunch layer adds complexity. Medium weight

and lengthy finish. Lots of energy, this wine

still needs some cellar time to settle. Decant

for service; best drinking from late 2020

through 2024.

POINTS: 93

Contact: www.temata.co.nz

RRP $30.00

Lake Chalice The Falcon

Pinot Noir 2018 Marlborough

Lots of inviting toasty oak with aromas of

cinnamon and cedar then strawberry and

red cherry, some red apple skin and sweet

rose. Fruity on the palate, with dusty tannins

and acidity giving a lovely structure against a

backdrop of light red fruit flavours. Nice dry

finish, balanced and well made. Drink now

and through 2026.

POINTS: 92

Contact: www.lakechalice.com

RRP $18.99

Lake Chalice The Raptor

Pinot Noir 2016 Marlborough

Toasty, savoury, fruity and integrated bouquet

of Pinot with aromas of red berries, brown

spices and dry stone minerality. A dry wine,

with a core of red berry fruit and savoury

earthy flavours. No mistaking the acidity and

bite of tannins with a fresh tart fruit finish. A

wine that needs some more time to settle and

harmonise its various attributes. Best from

2021 through 2026.

POINTS: 90

Contact: www.lakechalice.com

RRP $22.99

Toi Toi Reserve Pinot Noir

2014 Central Otago

Classic bouquet of an Otago Pinot Noir, with

dark cherry and undergrowth, dried raspberry

and toasty wood spices. Dry with firm

textures of acidity and youthful tannins offset

by red fruit flavours and brown spices of

wood and toasted wood flavours. Well-made,

still youthful and coming together - drink from

late 2019 through 2026.

POINTS: 90

Contact: www.toitoiwines.co.nz

RRP $39.99

Crafters Union Pinot Noir

2018 Central Otago

Varietal & fruity bouquet with aromas of red

cherry and raspberry, whispers of red rose and

dried herb. Dry on the palate with flavours

of red apple and cherry, tart raspberry and

plum. Fine easy tannins, very little oak and a

crisp dry finish. Drinking well now and through

2022. Best enjoyed with food through 2020.

POINTS: 87

Contact: www.craftersunionwines.com

RRP $21.99

Selaks The Taste Collection

Velvety Pinot Noir 2018

Marlborough

Fruity, fresh, ripe and forward with aromas

of red berry fruits especially cherry and

strawberry, some cranberry and red plum

moments. A gentle Pinosity. Crisp, tart and

dry on the palate, abundant acidity and fine

easy tannins adding texture and a vibrant

palate feel. Fruit flavours are constant and

mirror the nose. Lighter weight example.

Drink now and through 2021.

POINTS: 86

Contact: www.selaks.co.nz

RRP $21.99

WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 63

MIGHTY REDS

Drama

Queens

NEW ZEALAND WINEMAKERS ARE PUSHING THE BOUNDARIES

WHEN IT COMES TO WORLD-CLASS RED WINES, WITH SOME

BOLD, INTENSE FLAVOURS THAT WILL MAKE LOVERS OF

Red wine drinkers can

be very particular

about the variety and

style they prefer. When

it comes to diversity and quality, our

NZ red wines are pretty impressive.

Pinot Noir is a good example. It has

a wonderful way of reflecting the

site where it is grown or a thread

of flavour that the producer likes to

harness. The use of whole-bunch

(as opposed to de-stemmed) fruit as

a percentage of the finished wine

is quite common. So too is the

use of oak and how long the wine

matures for in barrel impacts heavily

on the final taste. Less preservative

at bottling, un-fined and unfiltered

are two more influences of texture

and taste. All these ideas speak to the

style, flavour and expression that a

producer is trying to convey. Two

example Pinots Noir that will allow

your adventurous side to take charge

are Grasshopper Rock and Air New

Zealand Fine Wine Lowburn Ferry.

WEIGHTIER WINES REJOICE

Syrah is the jewel in the

vinous crown of New Zealand.

The variety has been part of our

wine scene for some time, but as

lived somewhat in the shadow of

Pinot Noir and Cabernet. Not

any more. Northland, Waiheke

Island, Gisborne, Hawke's Bay,

Wairarapa and Marlborough all have

excellent examples to consider. The

aroma and taste profile of Syrah is

somewhat particular though with

blackcurrant and spices, raspberry

and aged meats, pepper, violets, bold

tannins and a back bone of acidity.

An excellent food wine for sure.

Two must-try examples include

Villa Maria’s Reserve and Te Mata

Estate Bullnose.

Ideally Merlot should have

an aroma and flavour package of

violet or rose and dark plums, a

fleshy core, suggestions of blue

fruit and a natural earthy quality.

Merlot tannins are typically rounder

and plush. W

Vidal Soler Syrah

2017 Gimblett Gravels

Hawke’s Bay

A bouquet filled with aromas of violets, black

currants, raspberry, peppery sweet meats,

smoky oak and layers of garrigue, dry stone

and baking spices. Very expressive on the

palate with flavours of oak and wood smoke,

dark raspberry and black currant, loads of

pepper and sweet black olive. Weighty yet

fine, a strong backbone of acidity and firm

youthful tannins, a core of fruit and ripeness

with a long dry finish. This wine is delicious.

Decant for service now and through 2022.

Excellent drinking from 2022 through 2030

if stored well.

POINTS: 98

Contact: www.vidal.co.nz

RRP $34.99

Vidal Legacy Syrah

2016 Gimblett Gravels

Hawke’s Bay

Fantastic bouquet of Syrah with softly spoken

white pepper, baked raspberry, crushed black

cherry, rose and a quiet yet powerful charm.

No mistaking the complexity with a beguiling

seductive core. Velvet & silk tannins, a

backbone of acidity, vanilla, clove and a soft filé

powder note. Long and complex finish. Drink

now and through 2028.

POINTS: 96

Contact: www.vidal.co.nz

RRP $79.99

1 2

More next page>>

64 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019

TASTING NOTES MIGHTY REDS

Pegasus Bay Maestro

Merlot, Cabernet, Malbec

2015 North Canterbury

Complex bouquet of dark red fruits

led by Doris plum, blackberry and dark

spiced chocolate. Toasty wood spices

of clove and baked vanilla, a steely

haunt adds complexity and depth. Dry

with a contrasting core of red berry

fruits, chocolate and wood spice. Firm

to fine tannins and warming alcohol.

Medium+ acidity and dark fruited core.

Coming into balance slowly. Lengthy

fine finish. Drink from late 2019 and

through 2029.

POINTS: 95

Contact: www.pegasusbay.com

RRP $50.00

The Landing Syrah 2015

Bay of Islands

Dark forest berries, toasty oak with

clove and vanilla scents, baked field

mushrooms, black cherry, ageing meats

and a clay gravel earth core. Dry, luscious

and fruity with flavours of blueberry,

pepper, blackcurrant and raspberry.

Plenty of acidity with ripe, firm youthful

tannins, great structure and length. The

complexity builds as the wine opens up in

the glass. A lovely wine, quite masculine

with broad shoulders, weight and power.

Drink now and through 2026.

POINTS: 95

Contact: www.thelandingnz.com

RRP $39.99

Smith & Sheth CRU

Heretaunga Syrah 2017

Hawke’s Bay

Varietal and immediately enticing

bouquet of sweet oak and pepper

spice, toasty wood and dark berries

with raspberry and black currant. Dry,

toasty, fruity and spicy on the palate with

dusty wood tannins, plenty of acidity,

medium+ weight and intensity. The

finish is finer with dark cherry and some

floral moments. Youthful overall though

drinkable today and through 2026.

POINTS: 93

Contact: www.smithandsheth.com

RRP $40.00

Samuel’s Collection

Grenache Shiraz Mataro

2016 South Australia

Dark cherry, peppery raspberry, milk

chocolate and chilli-spice moments,

some baking spices and overall

generous and welcoming bouquet. Dry,

fruity, mild spices and generous palate

with fine tannins and medium acidity,

flavours of fresh red berry fruits, a hint

of chocolate and liquorice with a dry,

balanced and fairly lengthy finish. Well

made, moderate complexity; drink now

and through 2021.

POINTS: 92

Contact: www.yalumbaestate.com

RRP $25.95

Samuel’s Collection

Shiraz Cabernet

Sauvignon 2017 South

Australia

Fleshy, ripe, spicy and packed fruit aromas

of black cherry and blackberry, dark plum

then black pepper and vanilla, violet and

bell pepper. Dry, tense, fruity and spicy on

the palate, with fruit and vegetal flavours

that mirror the nose, firm youthfullytextured

tannins and medium+ acidity.

This wine will please many who like this

style. Balanced , well made and ready.

Drink now and through 2022.

POINTS: 90

Contact: www.yalumbaestate.com

RRP $25.95

Selaks The Taste

Collection Silky Smooth

Merlot 2018 Hawke's Bay

Aromas of Doris plums and dark

berries, clove and cinnamon baking

spices then toasty oak wood

suggestions. Fruity and dry on the

palate with a nice concentration of

flavour from both fruit and wood

attributes. Fine tannins, easy acidity,

balanced even finish. A nice wine for

many red wine drinkers to enjoy. Best

from today and through 2021.

POINTS: 90

Contact: www.selaks.co.nz

RRP $21.99

3 4 5 6 7 8

WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 65

Ooh

la la!

A CLASSIC NEW ZEALAND CABERNET

SAUVIGNON TAKES ITS ROOTS FROM THE

HISTORIC FRENCH REGION OF BORDEAUX

Red wines can be made as single

variety expressions or as a

blend of more than one variety.

Merlot for example, or Cabernet

Sauvignon on their own make lovely wines

and can age well blended together; they are

great mates.

The classic wines of Bordeaux in France

are accepted benchmarks, with Cabernet

Sauvignon and Merlot-led blends of the ‘Left

bank’ (geographically, the villages on the

left hand side of the Gironde River) or the

Merlot Cabernet Franc wines of the ‘Right

bank’ (the right bank of the same river).

These combinations have been emulated

around the world, as it has been right here in

New Zealand.

Cabernet Sauvignon provides the power and

intensity, and the wine’s backbone, with its bold

tannins and acidity then flavours of blackberry

and dark plum, baked bell pepper and tobacco.

Cabernet Franc has a similar aroma, flavour and

structure attributes plus violet, olive, dried herb

and dark red berry as well.

Cabernets Sauvignon and Franc with Merlot

combined make classy, well-structured wine

with inherent attributes for ageing. It’s also a

great choice for food pairing, working well

with dishes like medium-rare eye fillet or wild

boar casserole to cheese or shepherd’s pie – or

simply with a seven-times award-winning

mince and cheese pie like Tauranga-based

Patrick Lam’s! W

66 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019

TASTING NOTES CABERNET SAUVIGNON

Vidal Legacy Gimblett

Gravels Cabernet

Sauvignon Merlot 2016

Hawke's Bay

Youthful, fruity and alluring bouquet

with an intriguing textured complexity. A

core of red and dark berry fruit flavours

layered between finely-tuned flavours

of oak, firm chalky tannins and abundant

acidity. There is a dry-stone mineral layer

alongside toasty wood spices, adding

further complexity. A very appealing wine

that will age well into the late 2020s. A

great food wine option with decanting is

highly recommended.

POINTS: 96

Contact: www.vidal.co.nz

RRP $69.99

Vidal Soler Gimblett

Gravels Cabernet

Sauvignon 2017 Hawke's Bay

A bouquet that is slow to reveal its story.

Aromas emerge of blackened blackberry,

dark plum and fresh cigar tobacco.

Marmite and meat, a sweet toasted wood

scent accentuated with aromas of clove

and vanilla, then dried herb and baked

bell-pepper. A complexity unfurls after

many minutes in glass. Youthful, tense, firm

and dry with flavours reflective of the nose.

Abundant fruit and wood tannins with

plenty of acidity. Complex, lengthy finish.

A wine that should age and harmonise in

your cellar over the coming 3-5 years. Ideal

drinking 2024 through 2034.

POINTS: 96

Contact: www.vidal.co.nz

RRP $34.99

Smith & Sheth CRU

Cabernets Sauvignon &

Franc, Tempranillo Cantera

2016 Hawke's Bay

This blended red wine from Hawke’s Bay

fruit is led by Cabernet Sauvignon, Franc

and Tempranillo. The nose shows off aromas

of power and substance with a youthful core

of dark berries, spices, tobacco and smoky

wood. On the palate, even more youthful

with bold tannins and acidity, plenty of

oak, spice, raspberry, dark berries, olive and

violets. All the elements are there for a wine

to age and integrate over the next few years.

Lengthy dry finish, raw energy and muscle.

Decant for service before 2022 with best

drinking from 2022 through 2030.

POINTS: 94

Contact: www.smithandsheth.com

RRP $60.00

Yalumba The Signature

Cabernet Sauvignon

Shiraz 2014 South Australia

Dark, rich and broody bouquet with

distinctive aromas of dark berries and

violets layered between stylish oak scents

of vanilla, pepper and clove, then toasted

wood and dark chocolate. Dry, fruity

and plump with flavours of dark berry

fruit and wood, firm moderate tannins

and acidity offering contrast, texture and

complexity. Well made, totally enjoyable

and excellent food wine. Drink now and

through 2024.

POINTS: 94

Contact: www.yalumba.com

RRP $65.00

Yalumba The Cigar

Cabernet Sauvignon 2014

South Australia

A fine wine bouquet with black and blue

berry fruits, plum and blackberry, some

blackcurrant and olive. Just a hint of mint,

licorice and exotic spice. No mistaking the

tobacco and cigar layer with its use of oak

and tannin integration. There's also no

mistaking the use of oak and dark wood

spices of vanilla and clove. With fine to

moderate tannins in abundance and

balanced acid line this wine is very nice

indeed. Drink now and through 2025.

POINTS: 94

Contact: www.yalumba.com

RRP $29.99

Crafters Union Cabernet

Sauvignon 2017

Coonawarra Australia

Classic varietal bouquet with aromas

of blackberry and tobacco, dark plum

and baked bell-pepper, brown spices

and smoky boxwood. Dry on the

palate with medium+ weight, medium

acidity and abundant yet fine tannins.

Balanced and well made, drink now and

through 2022.

POINTS: 90

Contact: www.craftersunionwines.

com

RRP $24.99

1 2 3 4 5 6

WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 67

SWEETS

Sweet

stuff

Seifried Winemakers

Collection Sweet Agnes

Riesling 2016 Nelson

A captivating luscious, ripe and and highly

scented bouquet. Aromas and flavours of

honeysuckle, sweet citrus, a core of apple,

apricot and honey. Sweet, creamy texture

with contrasting acid line and very long

finish. A fantastic example of NZ Riesling at

its very best!

POINTS: 95

Contact: www.seifried.co.nz

RRP $38.00

Askerne Late Harvest

Gewürztraminer 2017

Hawke’s Bay

Honey, spices, baked apple tart, clove and

brown sugar. Very sweet, very fruity, loaded

with flavours of honey and apricot, baked

apple tart and clove. Full-bodied and rich

and creamy texture. Long finish, delicious.

Drink now.

POINTS: 94

Contact: www.askernewines.co.nz

RRP $22.90

IF A WINE TASTES DRY, CAN IT STILL BE SWEET? LATE HARVEST

GRAPES CAN OFFER A TEASE IN TASTE AS WELL AS A BEAUTIFUL

Our palate can detect

residual sugar in wine

from around 3 grams

per litre & upwards.

This measure does not make a

wine sweet - in fact it will still be

dry and the sweetness often barely

noticeable until about 9 grams. It’s

all about balance, and what role

acidity and alcohol play alongside

sugar. A dry wine is considered

‘dry’ if the wine causes the palate

to dry out after swallowing. The

structure of wine and how acidity

plays a role in balance can often

lead us into thinking a wine is dry

when in fact it is not.

Some German wines are

adept at teasing the palate in this

way. New Zealand sweet wine

can do the same. Sweet wine is

generally made from ‘late harvest’

grapes – those deliberately left

out long after the official harvest

time in order for extra sunshine

SAVOURY FOOD MATCH

to increase their sugar levels.

They may also have been infected

with botrytis cinerea – noble rot

– for a wonderful honey, sweet

apricot effect. There are some red

varieties used, but the wines are

generally white.

The threshold for what defines

a sweet wine is debatable - suffice

to say that if you taste a wine and

describe it as sweet, it is. However,

one person’s measure or scale of

sweetness will be different from

the next.

Strangely, many people view

sweet wine as something to be

kept for cheese or dessert. It's

actually an excellent partner for

food with a little kick of spice, paté

and even oily fish like salmon.

Dessert wines are a category of

sweet wine. They should not to be

confused with a wine that is simply

fruity. Some sweet wines can be

both fruity and sweet. W

Loveblock Sweet Moscato

2014 Marlborough

Fragrant, floral, fruity and very appealing

bouquet. Blossoms, spun sugar, citrus and

orange peel aromas. Sweet as it hits the

palate, but immediately contrasted by

acidity, texture and flavour. Flavours from

the nose and palate persist with some

warmth and freshness adding to the length

and finish. Drink now and through 2024.

POINTS: 91

Contact: www.loveblockwine.com

RRP $29.99

1 2 3

WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 69

CAM'S BACK PAGE

Behind the

Velvet Curtain

EVERY WINE LOVER HAS A SPECIAL BOTTLE THEY'LL BRING TO A DINNER PARTY...

JUST AS LONG AS THEY DON'T HAVE TO SHARE IT

You’ve been invited to a party –

great! You ask the host what you can

contribute; “Oh, just bring a bottle,”

is the breezy response. But what is

the ‘right’ wine in this scenario? – A robust red,

delicate white, some bubbly, a magnum, a bottle

from your cellar… or perhaps you just pick up

something from the liquor shop on the way?

Whatever your approach, please don’t buy

cheap and cheerful, especially if you like wine

- and the host. Go for something interesting and

different; a wine you’ve been waiting to try.

‘Classic’ New Zealand wine is always a good

option. Choose varieties or brands that are well

known, but not bottom shelf. I particularly like

Millton Chardonnay, Palliser Estate Riesling,

Mahi Sauvignon Blanc and Misha’s Cantata

Pinot Noir. These wines are tasty and overdeliver

for the price. If you really can’t decide

then a full-bodied, rich and complex

sparkling wine is always fantastic;

Air New Zealand fine wines

Quartz Reef and No.1 Family

Estate are great examples. If

that doesn’t sound like you, opt

for a magnum of Rosé – not

expensive, and it stands out.

Selecting a nice wine to share

at a party can be a real challenge.

Firstly – are you supposed to share?

I’ve seen strangers use ‘my wine’ to fill

their glass near the top, take a slug and pretend

all is cool. If you’re bringing a bottle to a shared

occasion, I think you can expect other guests to

enjoy a glass.

If the idea of sharing your beautiful wine

doesn’t appeal, however, and you’re getting a taxi

home, consider presenting the host with two

bottles. There’s more of your wine to go around,

and you’re less likely to resent your fellow winedrinker

for enjoying your delicious drop.

The other option: bring two bottles, and pop

one behind the plush velvet curtain in the living

room when no-one is looking! Now you know

you can enjoy your lovely wine, away from

people who don’t appreciate wine like you do.

However, if you do decide to use the ‘velvet

curtain’ method, prepare for disappointment.

I gave up on velvet curtain wine years ago,

because despite the thrill of secrecy, hidden wine

just never tastes quite the way I expect.

Why? Guilt. Hiding wine at parties

just isn’t kosha. Parties are a time

for connecting and socialising, not

subterfuge – where’s the fun in

hurriedly downing your wine

like a sordid secret? If you really

want to savour a glass of that

special wine, open it early, and

pour a glass for the host or your

mates first. After all, a really good

wine tastes best when it’s shared. W

70 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019

Vidal Legacy Hawkes Bay

Chardonnay 2018

“Seductive, enticing, complex

and glamorous...” 96 Points

- Cameron Douglas MS

World Of Wine Winter 2019

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