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DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE

ISSUE 21| AUGUST/SEPTEMBER | FREE COPY

CITY HOTELS

OUR FAVOURITE NAIROBI PROPERTIES

PIKI PIKI RIDE

THROUGH KISII

ON SAFARI WITH

MY DAUGHTER

NOTES FROM

THE BUSH


2 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE


NOMAD MAGAZINE 2019 1


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EDITOR’S NOTE

WHERE IN THE WORLD

FEELS MOST LIKE HOME

RIGHT NOW?

EMILY WARD

Topshots, Page - 10

IS “SOMEDAY” JUST CODE FOR NEVER?

A

s we all but sprint into the last quarter of the year (can time just

stop to catch its breath for a quick second?) I can’t help but think

about all the highly anticipated trips that haven’t quite come to be

realised yet. We still have about four months to go, but still...

My desk keeps mocking me. No, not an office one as I have

none because I’m away so much that whenever I pop in, I’m always resigned

to lounging out on the balcony with the garden monkeys. It is the desk in my

apartment, which is strewn with souvenirs, travel magazines and resentment.

There’s the travel book on Italy, where I had hoped to have done cliche tourist

things like taking selfies on a gondola in Venice or riding a vespa from some

quirky little Airbnb in Florence for yet another dose of pasta and gelato from

the family-run cafe down the street.

There’s the worn out map of Africa, where I had marked out a tentative

trail that would have taken me from Nairobi to Cape Town, checking out

six countries along the way. On top of it lies postcards from Ghana, Egypt,

Ethiopia and Morocco, four countries I had hoped to have checked out by

now (granted, there’s a high chance of getting my passport stamped from at

least two of those places in the next month).

I’m not certain why I haven't quite gotten around to going on some of

the trips I was so excited for at the beginning of the year. Things have kept

coming up, and I keep saying I’ll still see these places ‘someday’. But do you

know what Tom Cruise’s ever suave character says to an ever leggy Cameron

Diaz about that word in the movie Knight and Day?

He says, "Someday. That's a dangerous word. It's really just a code for

'never'".

But, really, that doesn’t apply to me. I will still tick off most of the countries

on my list. Someday.

wattaonthego

Wendy Watta

Jinja, Uganda. I'm

originally from the

UK but have lived

here along the Nile

River for most of the

past 12 years. We were drawn here by the

river but have stayed because of how much we

love our lives here. There is a beautiful climate,

exceptionally friendly people and lots of

adventures to be had. Living abroad has given

me so many opportunities to learn and grow

and I will forever be grateful to Uganda for that.

MARTYN POLLOCK

A piki piki ride,

Page - 40

After ten years in the

army and moving to a

different hemisphere,

you certainly begin

to question what and

where is home. I wouldn’t exactly call it that,

but for now, weekly commuting takes me to an

isolated village about 30 mins from Kisii town.

The village of Bogeka is where I spend most

of my nights. In a deep dark wood stands my

three-bedroom bungalow devoid of running

water and with an al fresco lavatory. It certainly

has a rustic charm.

ADITYA SHAH

Topshots, Page - 8

India. I traveled and

worked in India for

a year, and Mumbai

tickled, tantalized and

terrified all my senses.

Incredible sights,

riots of colour at every corner, a cacophony

of sounds, aromatic and pungent smells, and

the glorious flavour-packed food. Living there,

travelling on the jam-packed local trains,

exploring its streets, meeting its people and

discovering its peculiar culture and climate

makes it feel like home – it’s truly a vibrant

melting pot.

NOMAD ISSUE. 21 AUGUST 2019 · PUBLISHED BY WEBSIMBA LIMITED, ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

MANAGING DIRECTOR MIKUL SHAH EDITOR WENDY WATTA DESIGN BRIAN SIAMBI SALES VANESSA WANJIKU DIGITAL FAITH KANJA

CONTRIBUTORS SAMANTHA DU TOIT, MARTYN POLLOCK, SIMON MARSH

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS BRIAN SIAMBI, EMILY WARD, ADITYA SHAH, TREVOR MAINGI

MARKETING & OPERATIONS DANIEL MUTHIANI, JANE NAITORE, ANGELA OMONDI SALES ENQUIRIES CALL NOMAD 0711 22 22 22

EMAIL EDITOR@NOMADMAGAZINE.CO

NomadMagazineAfrica @NomadMagAfrica @NomadMagazineAfrica

NOMAD MAGAZINE 2019 5


CONTENTS

22

6 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE


8

34

In this issue

8. TOP SHOTS

This month’s featured photographers

capture the action of a kayaker during the

Nile River Festival, and flamingos taking

off during a sunset in Botswana.

FEATURES

12

REGULARS

12. NEWS

Direct flights from Mumbai to Nairobi set

to boost tourism, tourist numbers in Kenya

hit an all-time high as the humpback

whale migration season kicks off at the

coast.

14. WHATS ON

From this year’s Magical Kenya Travel

Expo the premiere of a documentary

dedicated to Sudan the famous rhino,

find a roundup of must-attend events this

season.

44. WHAT I PACK FOR MY TRAVELS

Kenyan-Japanese artist Patti Endo, who

together with her sister Yvonne just

collaborated with Sandstorm on the

Endo² X Sandstorm line of bags, gives us

a peek inside her travel bag.

33. CITY HOTELS

From hotels in malls and in the bush to

historic and airport hotels, in this special

issue, we profile our pick of some top

hotels from around Nairobi.

38. A MARA SAFARI WITH MY DAUGHTER

For families with kids, Simon Marsh lays

out some fun activities to do on safari to

ensure both parents and their children

have fun.

40. A PIKI PIKI RIDE THROUGH SOUTH

NYANZA

From a bustling nightlife in Kisii to a fishing

village in Homa Bay, Martyn Pollock tears

across counties on the wheels of a Honda

Ace before hopping aboard a speedboat

to the little-known Ngodhe Rao Island,

and back.

18. NOTES FROM THE BUSH

As the moon illuminates the earth,

scorpions crawl out of hiding, their

exoskeletons glowing bright green/

yellow under a UV torch due to a special

fluorescent pigment in their exoskeleton,

writes Samantha du Toit.

ON THE COVER

THE TRIBE HOTEL, NAIROBI

IMAGE COURTESTY OF THE TRIBE HOTEL

NOMAD MAGAZINE 2019 7


ADITYA SHAH

Instagram: @mowglishah

I shot this at Makgadikgadi Salt Pan,

Botswana, at dusk, whose soft light I find

perfect for bird photography. I used a

Canon 5D Mark III with a Canon 100-

400mm IS II lens using the settings:

1/160, f/5.6, ISO 100, at 400mm

TIPS: Behavior - birds have a predictable

flight pattern. Observe these so you can

anticipate their movements and position

yourself. Composition - apply the rule of

thirds to ensure you have space for the

birds to fly in a certain direction and give

the image breathing room.

8 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE


NOMAD MAGAZINE 2019 9


EMILY WARD

Instagram: @emwardphotos

This shot was taken during the Nile River

Festival 2019. Fortunately I'm a kayaker as

well as a photographer, so with my camera

in a dry bag between my legs, I was able to

follow the kayakers as they paddled down

river and surfed various waves along the

way. I used a Nikon D750 with a Nikkor

24mm 1.8 lens. My settings were: 1/2500

sec at f/4.0, ISO 100, at 24mm.

TIP: Consider your foreground elements.

What can you include to make the image

more interesting or help your story? What can

you include that helps frame your subject?


TOP SHOTS

NOMAD MAGAZINE 2019 11


WHAT’S ON

PREMIERE OF KIFARU FILM

DEDICATED TO RHINO SUDAN

Kifaru is a film dedicated to Sudan, the

last male Northern White Rhino in Kenya,

who died last year. The award-winning

documentary is proudly presented by Ol

Pejeta Conservancy and will premiere on

24th October at the Trademark Hotel. The

feature-length documentary follows the lives of

two young recruits who join Ol Pejeta’s rhino

caretaker unit - a small group of rangers that

protect and care for Sudan. Spanning their first

four years on the job, Kifaru allows viewers

to intimately experience the joys and pitfalls

of wildlife conservation firsthand through the

eyes of these caretakers who witness extinction

happening in real-time. Get your ticket from

mookh.com

SUBMERGE- AN

UNDERWATER

PHOTOGRAPHIC

EXHIBITION

Nat Geo 2019 Explorer Jahawi

Bertolli will be showcasing an

underwater photographic and

fundraising event on 30th August

2019 at the Nairobi Serena Hotel

from 6:00pm. The Kenyan-Italian

photographer spends a great deal of

his time diving into the depths of the

ocean to document marine life with

an aim of shedding a light on their

conservation. There will be a live

performance featuring Gilad and the

Superband. Tickets go for Ksh 8,500

and include a three course dinner,

raffle, auction and more. To book

your ticket call Nadine on

+254 708379689.

MAGICAL KENYA TRAVEL EXPO

The Kenya Tourism Board is delighted to bring you the

8th edition of the Magical Kenya Travel Expo which

will be taking place from 2nd to 4th October at the

KICC in Nairobi. Get to network and explore business

opportunities at the leading travel trade expo in East

Africa. Benefit from pre-scheduled appointments

between exhibitors and hosted buyers, listen to the latest

industry trends at their seminars, boost Africa sales from

major global markets, and more. Your presence as an

exhibitor, hosted buyer or trade visitor will go to ensure

the continued development and growth of tourism in this

region. For more information visit, mkte.co.ke

NAIROBI BEER

FESTIVAL

The Nairobi Beer Festival is back

from 6th-8th September at The

Alchemist, and will also feature

the city’s top DJs. Experience

more than 35 beer tastings from

all over the world paired with

delicious gourmet bites. Enjoy

unique craft beers, draft beers,

lagers, ales and more. VIP ticket

holders will receive, among other

things, branded limited edition

Sandstorm gifts and an exclusive

professional beer glass set. For

more information and tickets, visit

ticketsasa.com

12 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE


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A Promise Kept

Since 1950

EXCESSIVE ALCOHOL CONSUMPTION IS HARMFUL TO YOUR HEALTH.

NOMAD MAGAZINE 2019 13

NOT FOR SALE TO PERSONS UNDER 18 YEARS.


NEWS

TOURIST NUMBERS TO HIT 2.2

MILLION IN 2019

The number of international tourists is expected

to grow by 10 per cent from last year, CS Najib

Balala has said, despite a slight drop in the first

half. In 2018, 2,025,206 tourists visited Kenya,

and that’s the highest ever in the country's tourism

history. During the year’s first half , US led as the

top market source for international tourists. This is

an indication that among other factors, the direct

flight to New York is having a substantial positive

impact on tourism. The current political stability and

heightened security are expected to support the

industry's performance going forward. The Tourism

ministry is putting up a strategy to capture Russia,

China and Indian markets as international markets

remain positive.

HUMPBACK WHALE

MIGRATION SEASON SETS IN

AT THE COAST

Every year, humpback whales migrate from

Antarctica to warmer climates, congregating

in Kenyan waters between July and August

to calve and mate. For visitors, watching

whales in their natural environment leaping

out of the water, sometimes in pairs, or in

larger family groups, is an amazing and

unforgettable sight. Visitors mostly watch the

whales from boats accommodating up to

eight people for a trip costing between Ksh

5,000 to Ksh 45,000 per person, depending

on the operator. One of the best places to

see whales is the Malindi-Watamu Marine

National Reserve, where Watamu Marine

Association (WMA) has studied dolphins

and whales since 2011.

DIRECT FLIGHTS FROM MUMBAI TO

NAIROBI SET TO BOOST TOURISM

A move by Air India to resume direct flights between Mumbai and Nairobi from

September has been welcomed as a huge opportunity for the hospitality industry. Air

India used to operate directly between India and Kenya but later abandoned those

operations. The airline is expected to fly four times a week and will cut the time used

to travel from between 10 and 11 hours to six hours. This will save hours spent on

flights that usually involve long layovers in Dubai, and consequently, South Asia leisure

travelers will have more time to spend experiencing all that Kenya has to offer. Data

released in January by Tourism CS Najib Balala showed that India ranked among the

top five markets for tourist international arrivals in Kenya.

14 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE


NOMAD MAGAZINE 2019 15


SILVERPALM SPA & RESORT

Bofa Road, Kilifi P.O. Box 41247-80100,

Mombasa | Tel: +254-780745837 /+254 707745837

Email: info@silverpalmkilifi.co.ke | www.silverpalmkilifi.com

HIGHEST RANKED HOTEL

IN KILIFI TOWN

EA Classification 2017 by TRA


Nestled in the foothills of Mt Kenya, award-winning accommodation 40 minutes from Nanyuki, endless opportunities to relax, reconnect with nature and the special people

in your life. Now offering half-day horse riding safaris into the neighbouring 36,000 acre, privately-owned wildlife conservancy.

Proud to be #1 of 22 on TripAdvisor, B&Bs/Inns of Laikipa County

For rates contact us at welcome@olepangifarm.com | We also offer resident rates | www.olepangifarm.com

Set on a private 18,000 acre wildlife sanctuary,

90 minutes from Nairobi,

you will find Naivasha’s best kept secret.

For reservations

call:0722 200 596 or 0707 645 631

email: reservations@oseriantwolakes.com

NOMAD MAGAZINE 2019 17


NOTES FROM THE BUSH

THEY COME

CRAWLING IN

THE MOONLIGHT…

As the moon illuminates the earth, scorpions crawl out of

hiding, their exoskeletons glowing bright green/yellow under

a UV torch due to the special fluorescent pigment in their

exoskeleton, writes Samantha du Toit.

One of my favourite

things about spending

so much time outdoors,

and sleeping in a tent,

is knowing what phase

of the moon it is on any

given day. This is not

something I think about when we go back

to Nairobi, but out in the wilderness you

can’t help but see the moon and know which

nights you can navigate the path back to the

tent without a torch to guide you.

Some nights, as we lie in our tent with

the flaps up so we can see outside, there

is the complete darkness that comes with a

moonless night. Indeed, it can be so dark

that it is hard to tell whether my eyes are

open or not. Then my other senses sharpen,

and sounds and smells become clearer and

more useful in piecing together the story

outside. Whose footsteps are those crunching

carefully through the leaves? Then, on other

nights, the moon is so bright it wakes us up

and we can see whoever is passing by, from

the little mongoose to the large elephant.

All manners of creatures come out only

at night, but our favourite ones to look for

are the scorpions. During the day we rarely

see them, and it is such a surprise therefore

to see just how many crawl out of the

woodwork, literally, to start their day as the

sun goes down. We recently purchased a

good ‘black light’ which is a UV torch great

for finding scorpions.

To the children’s delight, scorpions glow

bright green/yellow under UV light due

to a special fluorescent pigment in their

exoskeleton. I have not yet managed to find

anyone who knows for sure why scorpions

have this, but it is thought that they perhaps

use it to see each other, warn predators of

their venom or to detect the UV rays from

the moon and stars, allowing them to know

when it might be too bright for them to risk

going out hunting, for fear of becoming prey.

Most evenings after dinner, we now walk

with the black light to our tent and count

the number of scorpions we see. Often we

count more than thirty on our five minute

amble, and we are learning where we are

most likely to find them, marvelling at how

different they all are. Some stay in the barks

of trees and seem to have the larger pincers

and smaller tails; we can see these ones still

in the same place in the day time, although

hidden a little deeper inside their hideouts.

Once we even saw two of them having

what looked like an arm wrestle, pincers

clashing and thrashing around as they tried

to displace each other.

Others we find scuttling around the

undergrowth. Some big ones seem to have

very small pincers and larger tails with sharp

stingers on the end, and we make sure to

steer clear of them. The children ask often

where the scorpions go during the day,

and I remind them of how I have mistakenly

discovered the answer on more than one

occasion. Their favourite story is about the

day I once discovered a small scorpion

asleep in a hand towel which was hanging

on a tree branch outside our lunch tent.

As I used the hand towel to dry my hands

(not knowing there was a scorpion nestled

on the inside), I must have given the scorpion

quite a shock as it stung me on my finger. It

was a heavy sting for a small creature and

the pain was intense, lasting a long fifteen

hours. It then vanished abruptly, leaving

me no worse for wear but perhaps a little

wiser as to where to check for slumbering

scorpions in the future.

As we snuggle into bed and turn off the

lights, we compare scorpion counts. Closing

our eyes, we feel the darkness folding in

around us like a safe blanket, falling asleep

listening to the sounds of the night creatures

going about their nocturnal business.

Samantha du Toit is a wildlife

conservationist, working with SORALO, a

Maasai land trust. She lives with her

husband, Johann, and their two children at

Shompole Wilderness, a tented camp in the

Shompole Conservancy.

18 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE


NOMAD MAGAZINE 2019 19


VIPINGO

RIDGE

10 YEARS ON

In 2005, a sisal plantation sat neglected, sprawled

across the rise of an ancient sand dune. Today, after

years of stunning transformation, this is now home

to Kenya’s premier golf course, some of the most

luxurious residences on the coast and a vibrant

community of people from all over the world.

With high-level security, world-class amenities

and panoramic views from the Indian Ocean to

the Chodari Hills in the west, like nowhere else in

Kenya, Vipingo Ridge is a place of unique allure.

As soon as you enter the gates off the

Mombasa Road, it is easy to see the attraction;

a beautifully manicured championship course,

impressive Clubhouse, tennis courts, multiple

swimming pools, horse stables, sports bar, airconditioned

gym -there is little that Vipingo

Ridge doesn’t offer. As a result, this is a secure

and relaxed hub of activity where people come

together to live, laugh and play in the company of

friends.

With golf at the heart of this luxury

development, great care has been taken in

building the 18-hole course designed by one of the

world’s most imaginative golf course architects,

David Jones. After officially opening in 2009, it

was soon to win the first of multiple awards and

became Africa’s only PGA-accredited course. Up

high on the ridge, a game on the Baobab Course

is cooler than you might think. Combined with

a meandering system of lakes and streams, the

swirling breeze may be refreshing but it also adds to

the challenge of the game.

Travelling back down the escarpment to the

water’s edge, you will find Vipingo Ridge’s Beach

Club. Launched in 2016, it soon became a familyfavourite

along this piece of coastline due to its

rare privacy and unspoilt nature -untouched by

tourism and development and therefore brimming

with nostalgia for a simpler time. Here, mouthwatering

plates of fresh seafood are paraded across

silvery sands and served up to happy punters

during lazy lunches or evenings under the stars.

With various activities including snorkelling, boules

and beach volleyball, there is plenty on offer to

entertain guests of all ages. Get adventurous by

exploring the rock pools teeming with sea-life or

simply lie back on one of the makuti-shaded swing

seats and settle into the unhurried rhythm of

these Swahili shores.

With over 300 residents and homeowners, the

growing community among an incredible setting

makes this one of Kenya’s most sought-after

addresses and now that the grounds have reached

full maturity, the flamboyant trees are in bloom

and an abundance of wildlife has returned to the

area, Vipingo Ridge beckons people from across

the region to sample a life better lived behind

their walls. Until the end of the year, a special

weekend package is the perfect opportunity to

experience this glamourous enclave and play

Kenya’s finest course in view of a sparkling sea. For

just KES 14,500 per person sharing or 19,500

single occupancy, play 9 holes on the Friday

night and join the signature Club Night supper,

stay in a luxury villa overnight and enjoy a hearty

breakfast before taking on the full 18 holes on

the Saturday. Costs include all green fees, dinner

and bitings, 5-star accommodation and breakfast.

The 2, 3 & 4-bedroom villas on the footprints of

the golf course await to spoil you with unrivalled

comfort, an Indian Ocean seascape and some

with rooftop plunge pools too. Book your stay by

quoting “NOMAD10” and enjoy 10% off your

accommodation during September 2019.

Amid the spoils of the Kenyan coast, each

day spent here will be yours to craft and enjoy.

Whether you want to take on the challenge of the

PGA Baobab Course or set sail on a Swahili dhow,

indulge in fine dining or a game of tennis with the

kids, you are invited to come for a day and stay for

a lifetime.

For more information, please visit www.

vipingoridge.com, For bookings, please contact

reservations@vipingoridge.com.

@vipingo.ridge

@vipingoridge


Take your place among this secure gated community

and live, laugh and play in the company of friends.

COME FOR A DAY. STAY FOR A LIFETIME.

VIPINGORIDGE.COM


CITY

HOTELS

We turn our focus to Nairobi in this issue, listing some of our

favourite spots around the city; from those with a rich history

that have been around since the early 1900s to business

hotels, and more


CITY HOTELS

NOMAD MAGAZINE 2019 23


CITY HOTELS

HISTORIC

FAIRMONT THE NORFOLK

If you’re looking for a place with history,

then The Norfolk, as it started out in 1904,

is it. Sitting on the Lord Delamere Terrace,

one can still imagine what it must have been

like for a guest in the early days, drinking a

beer overlooking green wilderness that has

inevitably given way to the city spread.The

then Jewish-owned hotel went through huge

upheaval in 1980. These days, it’s a rare,

high-class idyll in a quieter part of the centre,

and hosts two excellent restaurants. Location:

Harry Thuku Rd. www.fairmont.com

SAROVA STANLEY

It launched into Kenyan history in 1902 by

becoming the first luxury hotel in Nairobi

and the gracious host to prominent world

leaders and celebrities. Sarova Stanley

retains much of its historical charm while

offering all the luxuries and amenities of a

five-star hotel. Towering high up on the 8th

floor is the charismatic and chic 1902 Club

Lounge. With it comes a promise of the

very best personalized business solutions;

exclusive boardroom access, specialized

concierge services, whole day refreshments

and city sundowners to wind down your day.

Location: CBD. www.sarovahotels.com

FAIRMONT THE NORFOLK

NAIROBI SERENA HOTEL

A celebration of sophistication and a rich

fusion of Pan-African design influences from

Ethiopia, the Maghreb, West Africa and

East Africa - it merges business and leisure,

art and gastronomy and five-star style and

service. The 199 guestrooms and suites have

been newly remodelled and appointed with

the sought-after extravagances. Established

in 1975, it stands on the land that carried

the current National Museum in 1922. The

hotel is a living embodiment of its locale and

has played a role in a number of historic

moments in Kenya over the years. Location:

CBD outskirts www.serenahotels.com

SAROVA STANLEY

24 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE


CITY HOTELS

AMBASSADEUR HOTEL

This 85 room landmark hotel which currently

has modern art and design opened its doors

in 1961, quickly becoming popular as an

important hub in East African politics. It

played host to East African presidents, senior

government officials and civil servants as well

as Elite Africans in various conferences and

meetings of state. It is said that Kenya’s first

president, the late Mzee Jomo Kenyatta, was

a regular guest. Location: at the heart of the

CBD, along Tom Mboya Street and opposite

Kenya National Archives.

www.hotelambassadeurkenya.com

HILTON NAIROBI

HILTON NAIROBI

In 1969 when Hilton Nairobi was officially

opened, it stood out as the pinnacle of

international style and class. Owned by

the Hilton family, the brand has a worldrenowned

history. Today it has a good

blend of old and new decor. Whether you

are seeking an indoor or outdoor dining

experience, their three restaurants, two

distinct bars and charming Hollywoodthemed

café offer innovative cuisine and

friendly service. Tour the five continents

with weekly themed buffets at Travellers

restaurant, there’s the British-themed Jockey

Pub, and more. Location: Mama Ngina St.

www.hilton.com

FAIRVIEW HOTEL

The 127-room Fairview Hotel’s decor is

typical of Georgian colonial style. The

original hotel was built with a countryside

atmosphere in mind. Having been built

earlier, in 1946, a family bought and

successfully ran it for three generations

spanning almost 70 years, until only recently.

Over the years, renovations have been done,

careful to retain the country feel in what has

now become a bustling urban center. Expect

neatly manicured and well kept tropical

gardens, four restaurants, a swimming pool,

sundowner bar with pianist, and more.

Location: Bishop Rd. www.clhg.com

NAIROBI SERENA HOTEL

NOMAD MAGAZINE 2019 25


CITY HOTELS

APARTMENTS

KINGFISHER NEST

Named after the home of the striking

kingfisher birds, the two-bedroom serviced

apartments here are spacious and

comfortable, and come with a fully functional

kitchen, two bathrooms and a large balcony.

The apartments have a rooftop heated pool

and gym, where you can work out or go for

a relaxing dip while taking in the Nairobi

skyline. Indulge in Italian and Indian cuisine

at Feaston, the restaurant on the first floor.

Meals can however also be provided at

the comfort of your apartment. Location:

Opposite the former Nakumatt Ukay,

Westlands. www.kingfishernest.com

GEMSUITES RIVERSIDE

The property consists of one and two

bedroom apartments, and presidential suites.

Each is designed with large panel windows,

spacious wardrobes, a living and dining

area as well as a fully equipped open plan

kitchen with modern facilities. If you’re not

keen to cook, however, head up to the 11th

floor for some continental cuisine at the main

restaurant, Argenti, which means “silver” in

Italian. There is even a gym with a fitness

instructor, sauna and steam room, as well as

a world class spa. Location: Riverside Lane.

www.gemsuites.com

KINGFISHER NEST

PALACINA RESIDENCE & SUITES

The beautifully-furnished one, two and

three-bedroom suites which all have very

well-equipped kitchens come with all the

conveniences of a hotel – the Moonflower

restaurant on site, a lobby with sofas to sink

into, and daily breakfast. There are also

double bedrooms available, the newer ones,

at a higher price, in The Residence North.

Throughout the hotel is the Palacina touch,

and the interior design arm is situated in the

shop just next door. There is a long indoor

pool and gym on site. Location: off Dennis

Pritt Rd, Kilimani. www.palacina.com

PALACINA

26 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE


CITY HOTELS

SERENE

KAREN BLIXEN GARDEN

COTTAGES

The cottages have been designed after

the historic Swedo House which was

originally built as a hunting lodge in 1906.

They give a sense of relieving history in

elegant style, with high beam ceilings with

fireplaces, and wood and mazeras stone

floors complimenting modern bathrooms. All

cottages have a verandah for relaxing while

enjoying the birds, butterflies and flowers of

the garden. They even have feeders to attract

a wide variety of birds. A private swimming

pool and private garden bar are available

for a relaxing afternoon. Location: Karen Rd,

Karen. www.karenblixencoffeegarden.com

EMAKOKO

NAIROBI TENTED CAMP

This Porini-branded camp is an intimate

property in a shaded part of the national

park, and has just nine tents and a minimal

footprint. All are set on a wooded rise above

the main part of the camp. The communal

area is a lovely, old-style area with large

sofas and leather armchairs, again all

under canvas. By staying here, guests

access the wealth of Africa knowledge of

the Gamewatchers Safari family, started by

safari old-timer Jake Grieves-Cooke who has

decades of experience in Kenya’s tourism

sector. Location: within NNP, Langata.

www.nairobitentedcamp.com

EMAKOKO

This 10-room classy property has hosted all

manner of celebs, including Madonna. It

is the home of Emma and Anthony Childs

who have created a luxurious bush idyll, a

true escape whether en route to safari, or

just looking for an escape from the city for

a night or two. The bedrooms, all of which

overlook the park, are huge and designed

with a modern, contemporary feel. Each has

a fireplace for chilly nights, and guests can

feast on the views from their own wooden

decks. Within NNP, Langata.

www.emakoko.com

NAIROBI TENTED CAMP

NOMAD MAGAZINE 2019 27


CITY HOTELS

HOTELS IN A MALL

TRIBE HOTEL

The hotel is softly lit with warm colours, and

boasts a good steakhouse called Jiko. The

standard rooms are spacious – some with a

bath, others are shower only – and adorned

with colourful artworks and tribal artefacts.

The tribal theme plays out across the hotel,

which has some 900 pieces from around

the continent. There’s a library with 3,000

books, a stone table on a raised deck in the

pool should the idea of dining with water

lapping around your feet appeal, and Kaya

spa. Location: Village Market.

www.tribe-hotel.com

TRADEMARK HOTEL

With 215-rooms, this elegant and urban

business hotel is inspired by the cultural and

creative renaissance in Nairobi, reflecting

the city’s industrious and innovative nature

in its design. Each sound proof room offers

a workstation, black-out curtains and various

amenities. There is a clubhouse with striking

views of the area on the topmost floor.

Harvest, the hotel’s open grill brasserie,

has excellent cuts of meat and focuses on

farm fresh ingredients carefully paired with

exquisite wines from their walk-in wine

room, for the perfect dining out experience.

Location: Village Market.

www.trademark-hotel.com

TRIBE HOTEL

CITY LODGE HOTEL

AT TWO RIVERS

Opened by South African hospitality group

City Lodge, it has 171 beautifully designed

sound-proof rooms that strike a good

balance between comfort and style. Rooms

range from standard, presidential and those

adapted for guests with physical disabilities.

While the bathrooms feature showers,

selected rooms offer baths. Guests can enjoy

their meals at the cafe for breakfast, lunch

and a light dinner, as well as a sundowner

bar service. The hotel also has a swimming

pool, boardrooms and a well equipped

fitness center. Location: Two Rivers Mall.

www.clhg.com

TRADEMARK

CITY LODGE

28 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE


CITY HOTELS

BUDGET

WILDEBEEST ECO CAMP

This well-run hotel is unexpected given its

location in the Langata suburb encircling

a small marsh-bordered lake. It caters

predominantly to groups and younger

travellers, but has attractive whitewashed

rooms as well as glamping options in the

deluxe safari tent, and a range of more

budget options right down to a two-man

tent and dorm rooms. Meals are taken on

the large deck overlooking the swimming

pool, and it’s an enticing spot for kids given

the playground and mini zipline. Location:

Mokoyeti Rd West, Langata.

www.wildebeestecocamp.com

KENYA COMFORT HOTEL

This is a two-star hotel with 91 rooms

located at the junction of Muindi Mbingu

and Monrovia Streets, overlooking the

lovely Jeevanjee Gardens. The hotel offers

en-suite compact budget, standard and

superior rooms. At the restaurant, all meals

are prepared from fresh ingredients and the

menu largely features Kenyan cuisine. The

group also has three-star suites, in Kilimani,

just around State House. Enjoy an aerial

view of Nairobi from the rooftop sun lounge

or relax at the steam and sauna rooms.

Personalized packages for conferences and

more are available. Location: CBD.

www.kenyacomfort.com

MANYATTA BACKPACKERS

The house can host up to 30 people. Rooms

here range from single and double to six and

eight person dorms, and these have shared

washrooms. There is a communal living room

and dining area, great for mingling with

fellow backpackers. The outdoor restaurant

serves freshly prepared food with an open

fireplace for extra warmth on those cold

Nairobi spells, best enjoyed with a drink

from the bar. The staff is very friendly and the

house is located in the serene neighbourhood

of Kilimani, just about 2km from the CBD.

www.manyattabackpackers.com

WILDEBEEST ECO CAMP

NOMAD MAGAZINE 2019 29


CITY HOTELS

DECOR

AFRICAN HERITAGE HOUSE

An architectural gem reminiscent of Timbuktustyle

mud buildings, the house is crammed

with rare art pieces collected from all over

the continent by Alan Donovan, who built it

following the demise of the African Heritage

gallery in town. Each of the four bedrooms

is themed with its own eclectic style, from the

beds with the trinket holders on the carved

bed-posts to the rock-pool like bathroom. It’s

also a fascinating place to simply visit for

a tour of the weird and wonderful African

art. Book ahead. Location: Mombasa Rd,

Mlolongo www.africanheritagehouse.info

THE KING POST

This is a Swahili village smack in the middle

of Nairobi. It features a unique architectural

synthesis as interesting as the influences

on the Swahili culture itself, with Omani,

Portuguese, Indian, African and British flair.

Right from the wooden intricately carved gate

with large brass studs, narrow alleyways

lead you to the tranquility of your apartment,

and you might as well be in Zanzibar.

Apartments range from studios to three

bedrooms. A gym, restaurant, hair salon

and fashion boutique are also within the

premises. Location: Rhapta Rd, Westlands.

www.gablesgroup.co.ke

AFRICAN HERITAGE HOUSE

DUSITD2 NAIROBI

Here, style, entertainment and art converge.

The decor is contemporary, colourful and

chic with a refreshing sense of playfulness

and exciting installations for art lovers.

Offering world class cuisine from its array

of bars and restaurants, stylish and spacious

guest rooms, the award winning Devarana

Spa and a striking red swimming pool,

dusitD2 is the perfect urban retreat for both

work and play. After closing down following

the widely-covered attacks last year, the

hotel reopens with a special accommodation

package offering 20% off the Dusit Best

Available Rate. Location: 14 Riverside Drive.

www.d2nairobi.com

DUSIT D2

30 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE


CITY HOTELS

AIRPORT

FOUR POINTS BY SHERATON

NAIROBI AIRPORT

There is a distinct vertical garden which starts

from the ground floor and winds all the way

up to the hotel’s fifth floor. In any of the 172

guestrooms, there is a sense of thought in the

design. If it’s something a little more indulgent

that you want, a bathtub overlooking the

National Park is just the thing in the Executive

Suite. The rooftop restaurant has a pool,

overlooks the JKIA runway on one side and

the park on the other, and has a colourful

mural by graffiti artist Bankslave. Location:

Tower Avenue JKIA. www.marriott.com

FOUR POINTS BY SHERATON JKIA

OLE SERENI

With the stunning views of the park,

especially when the animals come to the

waterhole, this alone make Ole Sereni oneof-a-kind.

Boasting modern technology and

furnishings with an African-inspired décor,

all rooms serve as a comfortable home

away from home. Each of their four dining

options capitalise on the unique location

along the park, whether looking out over an

infinity pool or from the fourth-floor at Eagle’s

The Steakhouse. Here, you can enjoy fresh

seafood flown in from Kenya’s coast or handpicked,

aged steaks. Location: Mombasa Rd.

ole-sereni.com

HILTON GARDEN INN

Start each morning with breakfast at the

on-site restaurant or grab a quick snack at

the 24-hour Pavilion Pantry. Unwind with

evening room service. Spend the afternoon at

the 20m heated rooftop infinity pool, or the

24 hour well-equipped fitness center. Choose

from any of the 175 air-conditioned guest

rooms which includes complimentary WiFi, a

well-lit work area, mini-refrigerator and flatscreen

TV with freeview channels. Unwind

with a drink in the relaxed lounge bar

before enjoying a meal in the Garden Grille.

Location: Mombasa Rd. www.hilton.com

OLE SERENI

NOMAD MAGAZINE 2019 31


CITY HOTELS

BUSINESS

VILLA ROSA KEMPINSKI

Offering the perfect fusion of European

luxury and Kenyan hospitality, Villa Rosa

Kempinski is a unique destination where

guests can spend time relaxing or working.

In addition to the 200 rooms and suites

distributed throughout its ten floors, you will

also find exquisite dining opportunities here.

Their dining selection includes Cafe Villa

Rosa, K Lounge which is the lobby lounge,

Balcony Bar, Chinese Restaurant 88, Italian

Restaurant LUCCA and a Levant -style lounge

and restaurant called Tambourin. The hotel

also has a grand ballroom and Kempinski

The Spa. Location: Chiromo Rd.

www.kempinski.com

PARK INN BY RADISSON

The 140 rooms here are designed for

comfort, with a fantastic range of amenities

to enhance your stay. Enjoy all-day dining at

the in-house restaurant and terrace bar, or

relax with friends at the rooftop lounge bar

which offers amazing views of the Westlands

neighbourhood. Keep up with your workout

routine in the gym, or cool off in the

swimming pool. For business, host your next

conference, seminar, boardroom meeting

or event in their convenient, on-site meeting

rooms. There are five of those, ranging from

20 to 140 square meters. Location: Waiyaki

Way. www.radissonhotels.com

VILLA ROSA KEMPINSKI

SANKARA AUTOGRAPH

COLLECTION

Spacious luxury rooms and suites at this

luxury hotel are bathed in natural light. The

contemporary interior design, array of art

and in-room facilities provide the highest

level of comfort. There are several restaurants

such as Graze, a New York-style steakhouse

offering aged beef, succulent seafood and

indulgent desserts paired with some of the

finest wines and whiskies. With more than

250 square metres of multi-functional event

facilities, they offer one of the most exclusive

and convenient venues for corporate

gatherings in Nairobi. Location: Woodvale

Grove, Westlands. www.sankara.com.

SANKARA

32 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE


CITY HOTELS

PRIDE INN RAPHTA

This quiet three-star hotel was just recently

refurbished. The cottage-style rooms are lined

along a courtyard, and are shaded by trees

and greenery making for a rather serene

setting. The regular in-room facilities such as

a work surface, DSTV, WiFi, fridge, a tea

station and more are available. A swimming

pool and restaurant with a vast multi-cuisine

menu are available. For business travelers,

the brand is renowned for its conferencing

facilities, and they have another location

in the neighbourhood just next to Graffins

college. Location: Raphta Rd, Westlands.

www.prideinn.co.ke

IBIS STYLES

THE HERON PORTICO

Choose from a range of accommodation

options such as the junior suites (which

include a separate living area and a

kitchenette) or standard and superior rooms.

Great amenities and stunning interiors make

this stylish and comfortable hotel an ideal

choice. Choose from five fully equipped

meeting and event halls for a wide array

of gatherings like conferences, exhibitions,

weddings and more. For foodies, there

are four options for dining, and these offer

patrons an array of international and local

cuisine. Location: Jakaya Kikwete Rd.

www.theheronportico.com

IBIS STYLES

This chic and stylish hotel is the ultimate

stopover for mixing of business and leisure.

Restaurants such as Kilele Nyama and

Utamu are available and offer a range of

cuisine (the former in particular has a must-try

mixed-grill platter). If you are keen to grab

some post-meeting drinks, Tusker Lite Sky Bar

can get quite lively on the weekends, and is

the perfect spot to watch the city light up at

night. Accommodation ranges from double to

twin, triple and family rooms. Five conference

facilities are available. Location: Rhapta Rd,

Westlands. www.ibisstylesnairobi.com

PRIDE INN

NOMAD MAGAZINE 2019 33


Photographer: Trevor Maingi

@the_mentalyst

34 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE


NAIROBI

With a background in Software

Engineering and Aerospace Engineering,

I decided to chase my wildest dreams

of becoming a photographer. I've never

really enjoyed labels and prefer to let a

photograph speak for itself. I do however

like to think of myself as a travel and

lifestyle photographer/filmmaker. When

it comes to urbanscape photography, I

enjoy playing with lines, patterns and

shapes. For those looking to venture into

this field, here are some tips to always

keep in mind:

GEAR: Think about accessories such as a

tripod and filters which can really play a

big role in getting the best shots. Always

carry extra batteries as well.

COMPOSITION: Draw the viewer's eye by

using leading lines, contrast, patterns and

texture to bring cities to life.

LENSES: Experiment with various lenses. I

always find myself shooting using a wide

and a zoom lens. The former is amazing,

but details in a shot tell a different story.

MOTION: This is where the ND filter

comes through. Use one during the day

to be able to shoot long exposure photos.

At night, you will have less light for long

exposures.

PEOPLE: Incorporate human elements into

your composition. People can not only

bring life to cities but also help convey

scale.

RESEARCH: Find out key locations or

vantage points to shoot from. Also find out

if you need permission or a license.

TIME OF DAY: Light is key. Pay attention to

how it brings life to a city. I enjoy shooting

in the early morning light, and the streets

are also usually less busy. Also use

shadows and sunsets to your advantage.

VANTAGE POINT: If there are tall buildings

next to you, shoot from street level looking

up. Try different angles.

Manual focus: With urbanscape, you

won't be dealing with fast moving objects

so switch to manual focus for consistently

sharp images.

EXPERIMENT: Go to the same area a

couple times and try various techniques.

SAFETY: Every city has its fair share of the

good and bad. Ask around for places to

avoid and always be aware of what's

happening around you.

NOMAD MAGAZINE 2019 35


36 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE


NAIROBI

NOMAD MAGAZINE 2019 37


A MARA SAFARI

WITH MY DAUGHTER

For families with kids, Simon Marsh lays out some fun activities to

do on safari to ensure both parents and their children have fun.

38 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE


ADVENTURE

T

he first time I took my

daughter on safari as

a three year old, she

was transfixed with the

experience and the

creatures she had only

ever heard about in stories.

Fast forward to five years and innumerable

excursions later, now the sighting of a

big cat does no more than elicit a slight

murmur of interest. A challenge to many

seasoned parents on a bush excursion is

how to make it an enjoyable, fulfilling and

worthwhile experience for younger children

whilst getting the most out of the experience

themselves, all while avoiding arguments.

Over the years, I have sought to instill a

knowledge and passion for the country she

knows as home, and in particular its flora

and fauna. Children learn through interaction

and remember through experiences so for

me it was important to incorporate both

while on safari, as well as hopefully getting

a few epic pictures for the family album.

The Mara never disappoints, and despite

the heavy rains, this trip

was no exception. In the

quieter times, we were

able to test each other’s

knowledge and that of

our Masai guide John

by setting each other

quizzes to test our bush

knowledge. A pencil

and notebook are cheap

tools to occupy young

minds, and they can also

get to draw and colour

what they see.

A small inexpensive

camera is another great

investment, although it

inevitably means a lot

of time subsequently

spent deleting blurry

selfies. The first time

she was able to enter

the school wildlife

photography competition with her own

pictures led to a sustained interest in all

things four-legged which gives hope that

a future “photographer of the year” may

currently be undergoing the early stages of

apprenticeship.

Back at camp, the guides and staff

had prepared a range of fun activities. An

increasingly competitive set of trials ensued

between the staff, the determined eight year

old and her talent-deficient father. These

included the making of a bow and arrow

followed by the multiple perforation of the

cardboard-box derived target.

We also took a

mould of a big cat’s

footprint. Much of

the fun was in the

scrambling around

to find a suitable

print, then being

patient enough for

it to set.

Next up was lighting fires the traditional

Maasai way, by rapidly rubbing

‘sandpaper wood’ against another soft

wooden base. Enough friction is created

resulting in light embers which are then

transferred to some very dry elephant dung,

and this is carefully nurtured to create

flames. Not nearly as easy as it looks, it

transpired, when it was our turn.

We also took a mould of a big cat’s

footprint. Much of the fun was in the

scrambling around to find a suitable print,

then being patient enough for it to set. For

my daughter, this came in handy while

relating the experiences of the safari to her

school friends in the show-and-tell section.

The wonders of the bush can easily be

explored on foot, and little experiences

here and there such as luring a wolf-spider

from its hole with a blade of grass or

trying to determine which animal frequents

a particular burrow based on what

droppings or tracks are nearby, are always

exciting. There is also the cheeky insertion

of a finger into wet buffalo dung then

pretending to taste it that

always elicits giggles and

mirthful faces of disgust.

A family safari is

however just as much

about spending quality

time together away

from the distractions

of everyday life as it is

about the game viewing.

I found her opening up

about the highs and lows

of school life, what was

on her mind and being

able to talk about hopes,

dreams and aspirations

in a way that was rarely

possible around hectic

work, school and social

schedules. To me that's

the real beauty of the

experience, time together

reminiscent of a bygone

era and making memories that we will both

remember.

We stayed at Basecamp Leopard Hill,

the newest addition to their portfolio in

the Naibosho conservancy. One of the

innovations in their well-outfitted tents is

the ability to open a portion of the roof

at the press of a button which will appeal

to stargazers, who need not even get out

of bed. Each room also has its own deck

and firepit from where parents can enjoy

romantic meals while the children sleep

peacefully inside.

NOMAD MAGAZINE 2019 39


A PIKI PIKI RIDE THROUGH

SOUTH NYANZA

From a bustling nightlife in Kisii to a fishing village in Homa Bay,

Martyn Pollock tears across counties on the wheels of a Honda Ace

before hopping aboard a speedboat to the little-known Ngodhe Rao

Island, and back.

40 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE


ROAD TRIP

Neon lights and flat screen

TVs illuminate the clubs

on Kisii’s second street.

Couples mostly, sit

packed together into small

booths eating ugali and

choma late into the night

while Afro-Dance-Pop blares out of huge

speakers several decibels too loud. Despite

the nightlife on offer, I find myself on some

backstreet dive. An unmarked door takes

me and a friend four or five storeys up to

what reminds me of a Scottish working-man’s

social club; faded smoke-stained furniture

and used sodden beer mats. Patrons line the

bar knocking back high-octane Guinness

and nodding to the rhythm. The band plays

Kisii traditional music with a Latin beat, it’s

a sound like I’ve never heard before and the

place is jumping.

Dancing is an all-male sport with plenty

of awkward eye contact. In wellie boots and

a ski jacket, our de facto leader controls the

pack; he drops, and we follow time and time

again. The band sweating into their mics

seem to constantly lift the

tempo and it’s gone half past

three by the time we decide

to make the journey home.

Kisii has some surprisingly

active nightlife. It’s the kind of

surprise night you don’t forget

and the next morning I’m

feeling worse for wear. But

I’ve got a free weekend, time

to kill and I want to make the

most of what South Nyanza

has to offer.

The Honda Ace is to the

piki piki world what the Prado

is to the world of luxury 4x4s:

a premium machine with a

premium price tag. They are

pretty much all the same bike,

but this has a feel of quality

and workmanship that means

even the older bikes still

look and feel new. A chorus of ‘muzungu,

muzungu’ follows as I jockey through Kisii

town traffic. Stopping, starting, weaving

the ride is exciting if a bit terrifying. After a

couple of near misses, I’m free of the urban

chaos and on the open road. Ahead of me

lies pristine Chinese tarmac meandering its

way westwards down, down, and further

down towards Lake Victoria.

Kisii town, and Kisii County for that

matter, do not get large numbers of foreign

visitors. A small Indian community of

business owners and less than a handful of

expats (of which I am one) and that’s the

whole county. A shame really as the rolling

hills of South Nyanza are truly spectacular.

Banana, coffee, tea, avocado and of course

maize cover every inch of land. If you drop

seeds here, they will grow. And for this

reason, it is the most populous county in

Kenya. It’s a sort of urban-rural sprawl where

families are densely packed into tiny parcels

of subsistence farm land. The villages are

idyllic. Immaculate homesteads with wellbuilt

houses, only the mabati sheet roofs and

mobile phones serve as reminders that you

are indeed in 2019.

I take advantage of the new road and

gun the bike through its 4-speed box all the

way to a brisk 95Kph (downhill). The open

road is a dream, but I continually remind

myself that dangers lurk, and I try to remain

focussed. Soon I’m in Homa Bay county

and the dramatic landscape of the lakeside

mountains and islands unfold in front of me.

I try not to get too lost in the moment for fear

of speed bumps, potholes and of course

other road users.

A boy of around nine years holds his

hand out at the side of the road. As I come

to a stop, he just stares at me wondering if

his eyes are telling the truth. ‘Wathi’, the only

word I know in Luo, which means ‘let’s go’,

and we are on our way. We ride in silence

for a couple of miles until he says ‘hapa’ and

as I come to a stop he runs off into the bush

to tell everyone he meets about his free ride,

questioning his own story with each iteration.

I’ve decided to camp at Wayando

Beach Eco Resort and I pitch my tent with

a beautiful view of the lake. It’s a modest

place in an excellent setting, serving up

succulent fresh fish dishes at bargain prices.

A great place to stay if you are travelling

on a budget. After nearly three hours in

the saddle and darkness setting in, I settle

down for a few beers in front of an open

fire watching the shifting shadows as the sun

light turns to moonlight over this great body

of water.

The next morning, I charter a fishing

boat to Ngodhe Rao Island with the only

other guest in the resort. Under a patchwork

sail we cruise between the two islands

at great speed. Our fishermen cum tour

operators are eager to please. There’s

Walter, the confident outgoing one with a

steady stream of interesting facts, Bernard,

the intern who is doing almost all the work

and Dickenson who sits at the front almost

in silence. It’s hard to work out who is the

boss, but my money is on Dickenson. The

waves lap at the boat as the morning sun

begins to show its strength on my Celtic

skin. The Sound is awash with boats, but

hardly an engine can be heard as almost

every boat is as the traditional dhow sailing

design. Ngodhe Rao Island reminds me

of a mythical pirate island in some classic

eighteenth-century novel. Two distinct rocky

peaks that lead down steep slopes to the

lake. Coves and inlets patrolled by tropical

birds and countless monitor lizards. But

far from deserted this island has a vibrant

community.

We land at a small fishing village on the

biggest stretch of beach. It

is the closest thing to a town

on the island. There are

no cars and no bikes, and

the pace of life is probably

little changed in decades.

Kids play in the water while

adults fish with varying

methods; line and net with

the latter being a communal

affair. Instantly I’m roped into

hauling in the day’s catch.

No mean feat as huge nets

are pulled by opposing

parties from hundreds of

meters offshore. After about

40 mins of rhythmic heaving,

I’m exhausted, but the net

is on shore and the catch

distributed evenly among

the two parties. As I watch,

a man is weaving a net on

a huge wooden loom. “Which country?”

he asks. “UK,” I reply. “How do you like

Trump? I like Trump, he is a great leader,”

he says. I nod, not wanting to correct him.

Geopolitics aside and we are back on the

boat to finish the circumnavigation of this

idyllic isle and back to our campsite.

I’ve got a three-hour blast ahead of me

and I want to get back before nightfall. For

all its pluses, the Honda Ace doesn’t have

a fuel gauge which makes me nervous

about coming unstuck. The journey back is

smoother and faster. I’m used to the bike

now and feel much more confident on the

road. I turn into Suneka, the first town back

in Gusii lands and the chorus of “muzungu”

from every man, child and mzee begins

again. I’m home.

NOMAD MAGAZINE 2019 41


YOUR PRIVATE

GETAWAY IN DIANI

Inspired by a fusion of African, Indian & Arabian architecture,

this exquisite 5 bedroom beachfront villa in Diani Beach makes the ideal holiday retreat.

Available on an exclusive basis, the 5 acre property comes with a chef, waiter and 7 additional staff

so you and your family can relax in the privacy of this palatial home.

42 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE

Ahana Villa ahanavilla@gmail.com, Ukunda, Coast, Coast, Kenya Phone: +254 798059990 Email: ahanavilla@gmail.com

www.ahanavilla.com


DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE

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NOMAD MAGAZINE 2019 43


SANDSTORM: WHAT I PACK

Dorothy Tote bag from

Endo² X Sandstorm

collection

Ksh6,900

Patti Endo is a Kenyan-Japanese artist who, together with

her sister Yvonne, just collaborated with Sandstorm on the

Endo² X Sandstorm line of bags featuring Patti's signature

art. When running around Nairobi, here’s what you’re likely

to find in her tote bag.

ZARA LEATHER JACKET - You can never go wrong with a leather jacket;

it's a perfect statement piece that goes with absolutely everything I wear,

and also keeps me warm in this unpredictable Nairobi weather.

ROGER & GALLET PERFUME “THÉ FANTAISIE”- One of my favourite

everyday scents. I just throw it in my bag and spruce up as needed

wherever I go.

LUSH HANDY GURUGU HAND CREAM - Moisturised skin is everything

to me, especially because I have tattoos. This all-natural cream keeps my

skin soft and helps keep my tattoos looking vibrant.

RAY-BAN ROUND METAL SUNGLASSES - Essential for my day to day...you

can never go wrong with a pair of Ray Bans!

MOSCHINO MAKEUP BAG - I never leave the house without it! It carries

all my little bits and bobs which mainly includes my make up items for a

touch up here and there.

FENTY LIP PAINT IN “UNCENSORED” - Red Lipstick is my go-to! I'm

always rocking it no matter what. My favourites are either Fenty Lip Paint

in “Uncensored” or Mac “Ruby Woo”.

CARMEX CHERRY LIP BALM - hands down my favourite lip balm ever.

PHONE AND CHARGER- Just can’t live without them. I’m always chatting

with family and friends, and also like to take pictures of adorable

animals.

44 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE


NOMAD MAGAZINE 2019 45


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46 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE

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