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DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE<br />

ISSUE 21| AUGUST/SEPTEMBER | FREE COPY<br />

CITY HOTELS<br />

OUR FAVOURITE NAIROBI PROPERTIES<br />

PIKI PIKI RIDE<br />

THROUGH KISII<br />

ON SAFARI WITH<br />

MY DAUGHTER<br />

NOTES FROM<br />

THE BUSH


2 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE


NOMAD MAGAZINE 2019 1


Take in heavenly<br />

views of Africa.<br />

Start Something Priceless<br />

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EDITOR’S NOTE<br />

WHERE IN THE WORLD<br />

FEELS MOST LIKE HOME<br />

RIGHT NOW?<br />

EMILY WARD<br />

Topshots, Page - 10<br />

IS “SOMEDAY” JUST CODE FOR NEVER?<br />

A<br />

s we all but sprint into the last quarter of the year (can time just<br />

stop to catch its breath for a quick second?) I can’t help but think<br />

about all the highly anticipated trips that haven’t quite come to be<br />

realised yet. We still have about four months to go, but still...<br />

My desk keeps mocking me. No, not an office one as I have<br />

none because I’m away so much that whenever I pop in, I’m always resigned<br />

to lounging out on the balcony with the garden monkeys. It is the desk in my<br />

apartment, which is strewn with souvenirs, travel magazines and resentment.<br />

There’s the travel book on Italy, where I had hoped to have done cliche tourist<br />

things like taking selfies on a gondola in Venice or riding a vespa from some<br />

quirky little Airbnb in Florence for yet another dose of pasta and gelato from<br />

the family-run cafe down the street.<br />

There’s the worn out map of Africa, where I had marked out a tentative<br />

trail that would have taken me from Nairobi to Cape Town, checking out<br />

six countries along the way. On top of it lies postcards from Ghana, Egypt,<br />

Ethiopia and Morocco, four countries I had hoped to have checked out by<br />

now (granted, there’s a high chance of getting my passport stamped from at<br />

least two of those places in the next month).<br />

I’m not certain why I haven't quite gotten around to going on some of<br />

the trips I was so excited for at the beginning of the year. Things have kept<br />

coming up, and I keep saying I’ll still see these places ‘someday’. But do you<br />

know what Tom Cruise’s ever suave character says to an ever leggy Cameron<br />

Diaz about that word in the movie Knight and Day?<br />

He says, "Someday. That's a dangerous word. It's really just a code for<br />

'never'".<br />

But, really, that doesn’t apply to me. I will still tick off most of the countries<br />

on my list. Someday.<br />

wattaonthego<br />

Wendy Watta<br />

Jinja, Uganda. I'm<br />

originally from the<br />

UK but have lived<br />

here along the Nile<br />

River for most of the<br />

past 12 years. We were drawn here by the<br />

river but have stayed because of how much we<br />

love our lives here. There is a beautiful climate,<br />

exceptionally friendly people and lots of<br />

adventures to be had. Living abroad has given<br />

me so many opportunities to learn and grow<br />

and I will forever be grateful to Uganda for that.<br />

MARTYN POLLOCK<br />

A piki piki ride,<br />

Page - 40<br />

After ten years in the<br />

army and moving to a<br />

different hemisphere,<br />

you certainly begin<br />

to question what and<br />

where is home. I wouldn’t exactly call it that,<br />

but for now, weekly commuting takes me to an<br />

isolated village about 30 mins from Kisii town.<br />

The village of Bogeka is where I spend most<br />

of my nights. In a deep dark wood stands my<br />

three-bedroom bungalow devoid of running<br />

water and with an al fresco lavatory. It certainly<br />

has a rustic charm.<br />

ADITYA SHAH<br />

Topshots, Page - 8<br />

India. I traveled and<br />

worked in India for<br />

a year, and Mumbai<br />

tickled, tantalized and<br />

terrified all my senses.<br />

Incredible sights,<br />

riots of colour at every corner, a cacophony<br />

of sounds, aromatic and pungent smells, and<br />

the glorious flavour-packed food. Living there,<br />

travelling on the jam-packed local trains,<br />

exploring its streets, meeting its people and<br />

discovering its peculiar culture and climate<br />

makes it feel like home – it’s truly a vibrant<br />

melting pot.<br />

NOMAD ISSUE. 21 AUGUST 2019 · PUBLISHED BY WEBSIMBA LIMITED, ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.<br />

MANAGING DIRECTOR MIKUL SHAH EDITOR WENDY WATTA DESIGN BRIAN SIAMBI SALES VANESSA WANJIKU DIGITAL FAITH KANJA<br />

CONTRIBUTORS SAMANTHA DU TOIT, MARTYN POLLOCK, SIMON MARSH<br />

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS BRIAN SIAMBI, EMILY WARD, ADITYA SHAH, TREVOR MAINGI<br />

MARKETING & OPERATIONS DANIEL MUTHIANI, JANE NAITORE, ANGELA OMONDI SALES ENQUIRIES CALL NOMAD 0711 22 22 22<br />

EMAIL EDITOR@NOMADMAGAZINE.CO<br />

<strong>Nomad</strong>MagazineAfrica @<strong>Nomad</strong>MagAfrica @<strong>Nomad</strong>MagazineAfrica<br />

NOMAD MAGAZINE 2019 5


CONTENTS<br />

22<br />

6 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE


8<br />

34<br />

In this issue<br />

8. TOP SHOTS<br />

This month’s featured photographers<br />

capture the action of a kayaker during the<br />

Nile River Festival, and flamingos taking<br />

off during a sunset in Botswana.<br />

FEATURES<br />

12<br />

REGULARS<br />

12. NEWS<br />

Direct flights from Mumbai to Nairobi set<br />

to boost tourism, tourist numbers in Kenya<br />

hit an all-time high as the humpback<br />

whale migration season kicks off at the<br />

coast.<br />

14. WHATS ON<br />

From this year’s Magical Kenya Travel<br />

Expo the premiere of a documentary<br />

dedicated to Sudan the famous rhino,<br />

find a roundup of must-attend events this<br />

season.<br />

44. WHAT I PACK FOR MY TRAVELS<br />

Kenyan-Japanese artist Patti Endo, who<br />

together with her sister Yvonne just<br />

collaborated with Sandstorm on the<br />

Endo² X Sandstorm line of bags, gives us<br />

a peek inside her travel bag.<br />

33. CITY HOTELS<br />

From hotels in malls and in the bush to<br />

historic and airport hotels, in this special<br />

issue, we profile our pick of some top<br />

hotels from around Nairobi.<br />

38. A MARA SAFARI WITH MY DAUGHTER<br />

For families with kids, Simon Marsh lays<br />

out some fun activities to do on safari to<br />

ensure both parents and their children<br />

have fun.<br />

40. A PIKI PIKI RIDE THROUGH SOUTH<br />

NYANZA<br />

From a bustling nightlife in Kisii to a fishing<br />

village in Homa Bay, Martyn Pollock tears<br />

across counties on the wheels of a Honda<br />

Ace before hopping aboard a speedboat<br />

to the little-known Ngodhe Rao Island,<br />

and back.<br />

18. NOTES FROM THE BUSH<br />

As the moon illuminates the earth,<br />

scorpions crawl out of hiding, their<br />

exoskeletons glowing bright green/<br />

yellow under a UV torch due to a special<br />

fluorescent pigment in their exoskeleton,<br />

writes Samantha du Toit.<br />

ON THE COVER<br />

THE TRIBE HOTEL, NAIROBI<br />

IMAGE COURTESTY OF THE TRIBE HOTEL<br />

NOMAD MAGAZINE 2019 7


ADITYA SHAH<br />

Instagram: @mowglishah<br />

I shot this at Makgadikgadi Salt Pan,<br />

Botswana, at dusk, whose soft light I find<br />

perfect for bird photography. I used a<br />

Canon 5D Mark III with a Canon 100-<br />

400mm IS II lens using the settings:<br />

1/160, f/5.6, ISO 100, at 400mm<br />

TIPS: Behavior - birds have a predictable<br />

flight pattern. Observe these so you can<br />

anticipate their movements and position<br />

yourself. Composition - apply the rule of<br />

thirds to ensure you have space for the<br />

birds to fly in a certain direction and give<br />

the image breathing room.<br />

8 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE


NOMAD MAGAZINE 2019 9


EMILY WARD<br />

Instagram: @emwardphotos<br />

This shot was taken during the Nile River<br />

Festival 2019. Fortunately I'm a kayaker as<br />

well as a photographer, so with my camera<br />

in a dry bag between my legs, I was able to<br />

follow the kayakers as they paddled down<br />

river and surfed various waves along the<br />

way. I used a Nikon D750 with a Nikkor<br />

24mm 1.8 lens. My settings were: 1/2500<br />

sec at f/4.0, ISO 100, at 24mm.<br />

TIP: Consider your foreground elements.<br />

What can you include to make the image<br />

more interesting or help your story? What can<br />

you include that helps frame your subject?


TOP SHOTS<br />

NOMAD MAGAZINE 2019 11


WHAT’S ON<br />

PREMIERE OF KIFARU FILM<br />

DEDICATED TO RHINO SUDAN<br />

Kifaru is a film dedicated to Sudan, the<br />

last male Northern White Rhino in Kenya,<br />

who died last year. The award-winning<br />

documentary is proudly presented by Ol<br />

Pejeta Conservancy and will premiere on<br />

24th October at the Trademark Hotel. The<br />

feature-length documentary follows the lives of<br />

two young recruits who join Ol Pejeta’s rhino<br />

caretaker unit - a small group of rangers that<br />

protect and care for Sudan. Spanning their first<br />

four years on the job, Kifaru allows viewers<br />

to intimately experience the joys and pitfalls<br />

of wildlife conservation firsthand through the<br />

eyes of these caretakers who witness extinction<br />

happening in real-time. Get your ticket from<br />

mookh.com<br />

SUBMERGE- AN<br />

UNDERWATER<br />

PHOTOGRAPHIC<br />

EXHIBITION<br />

Nat Geo 2019 Explorer Jahawi<br />

Bertolli will be showcasing an<br />

underwater photographic and<br />

fundraising event on 30th August<br />

2019 at the Nairobi Serena Hotel<br />

from 6:00pm. The Kenyan-Italian<br />

photographer spends a great deal of<br />

his time diving into the depths of the<br />

ocean to document marine life with<br />

an aim of shedding a light on their<br />

conservation. There will be a live<br />

performance featuring Gilad and the<br />

Superband. Tickets go for Ksh 8,500<br />

and include a three course dinner,<br />

raffle, auction and more. To book<br />

your ticket call Nadine on<br />

+254 708379689.<br />

MAGICAL KENYA TRAVEL EXPO<br />

The Kenya Tourism Board is delighted to bring you the<br />

8th edition of the Magical Kenya Travel Expo which<br />

will be taking place from 2nd to 4th October at the<br />

KICC in Nairobi. Get to network and explore business<br />

opportunities at the leading travel trade expo in East<br />

Africa. Benefit from pre-scheduled appointments<br />

between exhibitors and hosted buyers, listen to the latest<br />

industry trends at their seminars, boost Africa sales from<br />

major global markets, and more. Your presence as an<br />

exhibitor, hosted buyer or trade visitor will go to ensure<br />

the continued development and growth of tourism in this<br />

region. For more information visit, mkte.co.ke<br />

NAIROBI BEER<br />

FESTIVAL<br />

The Nairobi Beer Festival is back<br />

from 6th-8th September at The<br />

Alchemist, and will also feature<br />

the city’s top DJs. Experience<br />

more than 35 beer tastings from<br />

all over the world paired with<br />

delicious gourmet bites. Enjoy<br />

unique craft beers, draft beers,<br />

lagers, ales and more. VIP ticket<br />

holders will receive, among other<br />

things, branded limited edition<br />

Sandstorm gifts and an exclusive<br />

professional beer glass set. For<br />

more information and tickets, visit<br />

ticketsasa.com<br />

12 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE


www.eabl.com<br />

A Promise Kept<br />

Since 1950<br />

EXCESSIVE ALCOHOL CONSUMPTION IS HARMFUL TO YOUR HEALTH.<br />

NOMAD MAGAZINE 2019 13<br />

NOT FOR SALE TO PERSONS UNDER 18 YEARS.


NEWS<br />

TOURIST NUMBERS TO HIT 2.2<br />

MILLION IN 2019<br />

The number of international tourists is expected<br />

to grow by 10 per cent from last year, CS Najib<br />

Balala has said, despite a slight drop in the first<br />

half. In 2018, 2,025,206 tourists visited Kenya,<br />

and that’s the highest ever in the country's tourism<br />

history. During the year’s first half , US led as the<br />

top market source for international tourists. This is<br />

an indication that among other factors, the direct<br />

flight to New York is having a substantial positive<br />

impact on tourism. The current political stability and<br />

heightened security are expected to support the<br />

industry's performance going forward. The Tourism<br />

ministry is putting up a strategy to capture Russia,<br />

China and Indian markets as international markets<br />

remain positive.<br />

HUMPBACK WHALE<br />

MIGRATION SEASON SETS IN<br />

AT THE COAST<br />

Every year, humpback whales migrate from<br />

Antarctica to warmer climates, congregating<br />

in Kenyan waters between July and August<br />

to calve and mate. For visitors, watching<br />

whales in their natural environment leaping<br />

out of the water, sometimes in pairs, or in<br />

larger family groups, is an amazing and<br />

unforgettable sight. Visitors mostly watch the<br />

whales from boats accommodating up to<br />

eight people for a trip costing between Ksh<br />

5,000 to Ksh 45,000 per person, depending<br />

on the operator. One of the best places to<br />

see whales is the Malindi-Watamu Marine<br />

National Reserve, where Watamu Marine<br />

Association (WMA) has studied dolphins<br />

and whales since 2011.<br />

DIRECT FLIGHTS FROM MUMBAI TO<br />

NAIROBI SET TO BOOST TOURISM<br />

A move by Air India to resume direct flights between Mumbai and Nairobi from<br />

September has been welcomed as a huge opportunity for the hospitality industry. Air<br />

India used to operate directly between India and Kenya but later abandoned those<br />

operations. The airline is expected to fly four times a week and will cut the time used<br />

to travel from between 10 and 11 hours to six hours. This will save hours spent on<br />

flights that usually involve long layovers in Dubai, and consequently, South Asia leisure<br />

travelers will have more time to spend experiencing all that Kenya has to offer. Data<br />

released in January by Tourism CS Najib Balala showed that India ranked among the<br />

top five markets for tourist international arrivals in Kenya.<br />

14 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE


NOMAD MAGAZINE 2019 15


SILVERPALM SPA & RESORT<br />

Bofa Road, Kilifi P.O. Box 41247-80100,<br />

Mombasa | Tel: +254-780745837 /+254 707745837<br />

Email: info@silverpalmkilifi.co.ke | www.silverpalmkilifi.com<br />

HIGHEST RANKED HOTEL<br />

IN KILIFI TOWN<br />

EA Classification 2017 by TRA


Nestled in the foothills of Mt Kenya, award-winning accommodation 40 minutes from Nanyuki, endless opportunities to relax, reconnect with nature and the special people<br />

in your life. Now offering half-day horse riding safaris into the neighbouring 36,000 acre, privately-owned wildlife conservancy.<br />

Proud to be #1 of 22 on TripAdvisor, B&Bs/Inns of Laikipa County<br />

For rates contact us at welcome@olepangifarm.com | We also offer resident rates | www.olepangifarm.com<br />

Set on a private 18,000 acre wildlife sanctuary,<br />

90 minutes from Nairobi,<br />

you will find Naivasha’s best kept secret.<br />

For reservations<br />

call:0722 200 596 or 0707 645 631<br />

email: reservations@oseriantwolakes.com<br />

NOMAD MAGAZINE 2019 17


NOTES FROM THE BUSH<br />

THEY COME<br />

CRAWLING IN<br />

THE MOONLIGHT…<br />

As the moon illuminates the earth, scorpions crawl out of<br />

hiding, their exoskeletons glowing bright green/yellow under<br />

a UV torch due to the special fluorescent pigment in their<br />

exoskeleton, writes Samantha du Toit.<br />

One of my favourite<br />

things about spending<br />

so much time outdoors,<br />

and sleeping in a tent,<br />

is knowing what phase<br />

of the moon it is on any<br />

given day. This is not<br />

something I think about when we go back<br />

to Nairobi, but out in the wilderness you<br />

can’t help but see the moon and know which<br />

nights you can navigate the path back to the<br />

tent without a torch to guide you.<br />

Some nights, as we lie in our tent with<br />

the flaps up so we can see outside, there<br />

is the complete darkness that comes with a<br />

moonless night. Indeed, it can be so dark<br />

that it is hard to tell whether my eyes are<br />

open or not. Then my other senses sharpen,<br />

and sounds and smells become clearer and<br />

more useful in piecing together the story<br />

outside. Whose footsteps are those crunching<br />

carefully through the leaves? Then, on other<br />

nights, the moon is so bright it wakes us up<br />

and we can see whoever is passing by, from<br />

the little mongoose to the large elephant.<br />

All manners of creatures come out only<br />

at night, but our favourite ones to look for<br />

are the scorpions. During the day we rarely<br />

see them, and it is such a surprise therefore<br />

to see just how many crawl out of the<br />

woodwork, literally, to start their day as the<br />

sun goes down. We recently purchased a<br />

good ‘black light’ which is a UV torch great<br />

for finding scorpions.<br />

To the children’s delight, scorpions glow<br />

bright green/yellow under UV light due<br />

to a special fluorescent pigment in their<br />

exoskeleton. I have not yet managed to find<br />

anyone who knows for sure why scorpions<br />

have this, but it is thought that they perhaps<br />

use it to see each other, warn predators of<br />

their venom or to detect the UV rays from<br />

the moon and stars, allowing them to know<br />

when it might be too bright for them to risk<br />

going out hunting, for fear of becoming prey.<br />

Most evenings after dinner, we now walk<br />

with the black light to our tent and count<br />

the number of scorpions we see. Often we<br />

count more than thirty on our five minute<br />

amble, and we are learning where we are<br />

most likely to find them, marvelling at how<br />

different they all are. Some stay in the barks<br />

of trees and seem to have the larger pincers<br />

and smaller tails; we can see these ones still<br />

in the same place in the day time, although<br />

hidden a little deeper inside their hideouts.<br />

Once we even saw two of them having<br />

what looked like an arm wrestle, pincers<br />

clashing and thrashing around as they tried<br />

to displace each other.<br />

Others we find scuttling around the<br />

undergrowth. Some big ones seem to have<br />

very small pincers and larger tails with sharp<br />

stingers on the end, and we make sure to<br />

steer clear of them. The children ask often<br />

where the scorpions go during the day,<br />

and I remind them of how I have mistakenly<br />

discovered the answer on more than one<br />

occasion. Their favourite story is about the<br />

day I once discovered a small scorpion<br />

asleep in a hand towel which was hanging<br />

on a tree branch outside our lunch tent.<br />

As I used the hand towel to dry my hands<br />

(not knowing there was a scorpion nestled<br />

on the inside), I must have given the scorpion<br />

quite a shock as it stung me on my finger. It<br />

was a heavy sting for a small creature and<br />

the pain was intense, lasting a long fifteen<br />

hours. It then vanished abruptly, leaving<br />

me no worse for wear but perhaps a little<br />

wiser as to where to check for slumbering<br />

scorpions in the future.<br />

As we snuggle into bed and turn off the<br />

lights, we compare scorpion counts. Closing<br />

our eyes, we feel the darkness folding in<br />

around us like a safe blanket, falling asleep<br />

listening to the sounds of the night creatures<br />

going about their nocturnal business.<br />

Samantha du Toit is a wildlife<br />

conservationist, working with SORALO, a<br />

Maasai land trust. She lives with her<br />

husband, Johann, and their two children at<br />

Shompole Wilderness, a tented camp in the<br />

Shompole Conservancy.<br />

18 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE


NOMAD MAGAZINE 2019 19


VIPINGO<br />

RIDGE<br />

10 YEARS ON<br />

In 2005, a sisal plantation sat neglected, sprawled<br />

across the rise of an ancient sand dune. Today, after<br />

years of stunning transformation, this is now home<br />

to Kenya’s premier golf course, some of the most<br />

luxurious residences on the coast and a vibrant<br />

community of people from all over the world.<br />

With high-level security, world-class amenities<br />

and panoramic views from the Indian Ocean to<br />

the Chodari Hills in the west, like nowhere else in<br />

Kenya, Vipingo Ridge is a place of unique allure.<br />

As soon as you enter the gates off the<br />

Mombasa Road, it is easy to see the attraction;<br />

a beautifully manicured championship course,<br />

impressive Clubhouse, tennis courts, multiple<br />

swimming pools, horse stables, sports bar, airconditioned<br />

gym -there is little that Vipingo<br />

Ridge doesn’t offer. As a result, this is a secure<br />

and relaxed hub of activity where people come<br />

together to live, laugh and play in the company of<br />

friends.<br />

With golf at the heart of this luxury<br />

development, great care has been taken in<br />

building the 18-hole course designed by one of the<br />

world’s most imaginative golf course architects,<br />

David Jones. After officially opening in 2009, it<br />

was soon to win the first of multiple awards and<br />

became Africa’s only PGA-accredited course. Up<br />

high on the ridge, a game on the Baobab Course<br />

is cooler than you might think. Combined with<br />

a meandering system of lakes and streams, the<br />

swirling breeze may be refreshing but it also adds to<br />

the challenge of the game.<br />

Travelling back down the escarpment to the<br />

water’s edge, you will find Vipingo Ridge’s Beach<br />

Club. Launched in 2016, it soon became a familyfavourite<br />

along this piece of coastline due to its<br />

rare privacy and unspoilt nature -untouched by<br />

tourism and development and therefore brimming<br />

with nostalgia for a simpler time. Here, mouthwatering<br />

plates of fresh seafood are paraded across<br />

silvery sands and served up to happy punters<br />

during lazy lunches or evenings under the stars.<br />

With various activities including snorkelling, boules<br />

and beach volleyball, there is plenty on offer to<br />

entertain guests of all ages. Get adventurous by<br />

exploring the rock pools teeming with sea-life or<br />

simply lie back on one of the makuti-shaded swing<br />

seats and settle into the unhurried rhythm of<br />

these Swahili shores.<br />

With over 300 residents and homeowners, the<br />

growing community among an incredible setting<br />

makes this one of Kenya’s most sought-after<br />

addresses and now that the grounds have reached<br />

full maturity, the flamboyant trees are in bloom<br />

and an abundance of wildlife has returned to the<br />

area, Vipingo Ridge beckons people from across<br />

the region to sample a life better lived behind<br />

their walls. Until the end of the year, a special<br />

weekend package is the perfect opportunity to<br />

experience this glamourous enclave and play<br />

Kenya’s finest course in view of a sparkling sea. For<br />

just KES 14,500 per person sharing or 19,500<br />

single occupancy, play 9 holes on the Friday<br />

night and join the signature Club Night supper,<br />

stay in a luxury villa overnight and enjoy a hearty<br />

breakfast before taking on the full 18 holes on<br />

the Saturday. Costs include all green fees, dinner<br />

and bitings, 5-star accommodation and breakfast.<br />

The 2, 3 & 4-bedroom villas on the footprints of<br />

the golf course await to spoil you with unrivalled<br />

comfort, an Indian Ocean seascape and some<br />

with rooftop plunge pools too. Book your stay by<br />

quoting “NOMAD10” and enjoy 10% off your<br />

accommodation during September 2019.<br />

Amid the spoils of the Kenyan coast, each<br />

day spent here will be yours to craft and enjoy.<br />

Whether you want to take on the challenge of the<br />

PGA Baobab Course or set sail on a Swahili dhow,<br />

indulge in fine dining or a game of tennis with the<br />

kids, you are invited to come for a day and stay for<br />

a lifetime.<br />

For more information, please visit www.<br />

vipingoridge.com, For bookings, please contact<br />

reservations@vipingoridge.com.<br />

@vipingo.ridge<br />

@vipingoridge


Take your place among this secure gated community<br />

and live, laugh and play in the company of friends.<br />

COME FOR A DAY. STAY FOR A LIFETIME.<br />

VIPINGORIDGE.COM


CITY<br />

HOTELS<br />

We turn our focus to Nairobi in this issue, listing some of our<br />

favourite spots around the city; from those with a rich history<br />

that have been around since the early 1900s to business<br />

hotels, and more


CITY HOTELS<br />

NOMAD MAGAZINE 2019 23


CITY HOTELS<br />

HISTORIC<br />

FAIRMONT THE NORFOLK<br />

If you’re looking for a place with history,<br />

then The Norfolk, as it started out in 1904,<br />

is it. Sitting on the Lord Delamere Terrace,<br />

one can still imagine what it must have been<br />

like for a guest in the early days, drinking a<br />

beer overlooking green wilderness that has<br />

inevitably given way to the city spread.The<br />

then Jewish-owned hotel went through huge<br />

upheaval in 1980. These days, it’s a rare,<br />

high-class idyll in a quieter part of the centre,<br />

and hosts two excellent restaurants. Location:<br />

Harry Thuku Rd. www.fairmont.com<br />

SAROVA STANLEY<br />

It launched into Kenyan history in 1902 by<br />

becoming the first luxury hotel in Nairobi<br />

and the gracious host to prominent world<br />

leaders and celebrities. Sarova Stanley<br />

retains much of its historical charm while<br />

offering all the luxuries and amenities of a<br />

five-star hotel. Towering high up on the 8th<br />

floor is the charismatic and chic 1902 Club<br />

Lounge. With it comes a promise of the<br />

very best personalized business solutions;<br />

exclusive boardroom access, specialized<br />

concierge services, whole day refreshments<br />

and city sundowners to wind down your day.<br />

Location: CBD. www.sarovahotels.com<br />

FAIRMONT THE NORFOLK<br />

NAIROBI SERENA HOTEL<br />

A celebration of sophistication and a rich<br />

fusion of Pan-African design influences from<br />

Ethiopia, the Maghreb, West Africa and<br />

East Africa - it merges business and leisure,<br />

art and gastronomy and five-star style and<br />

service. The 199 guestrooms and suites have<br />

been newly remodelled and appointed with<br />

the sought-after extravagances. Established<br />

in 1975, it stands on the land that carried<br />

the current National Museum in 1922. The<br />

hotel is a living embodiment of its locale and<br />

has played a role in a number of historic<br />

moments in Kenya over the years. Location:<br />

CBD outskirts www.serenahotels.com<br />

SAROVA STANLEY<br />

24 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE


CITY HOTELS<br />

AMBASSADEUR HOTEL<br />

This 85 room landmark hotel which currently<br />

has modern art and design opened its doors<br />

in 1961, quickly becoming popular as an<br />

important hub in East African politics. It<br />

played host to East African presidents, senior<br />

government officials and civil servants as well<br />

as Elite Africans in various conferences and<br />

meetings of state. It is said that Kenya’s first<br />

president, the late Mzee Jomo Kenyatta, was<br />

a regular guest. Location: at the heart of the<br />

CBD, along Tom Mboya Street and opposite<br />

Kenya National Archives.<br />

www.hotelambassadeurkenya.com<br />

HILTON NAIROBI<br />

HILTON NAIROBI<br />

In 1969 when Hilton Nairobi was officially<br />

opened, it stood out as the pinnacle of<br />

international style and class. Owned by<br />

the Hilton family, the brand has a worldrenowned<br />

history. Today it has a good<br />

blend of old and new decor. Whether you<br />

are seeking an indoor or outdoor dining<br />

experience, their three restaurants, two<br />

distinct bars and charming Hollywoodthemed<br />

café offer innovative cuisine and<br />

friendly service. Tour the five continents<br />

with weekly themed buffets at Travellers<br />

restaurant, there’s the British-themed Jockey<br />

Pub, and more. Location: Mama Ngina St.<br />

www.hilton.com<br />

FAIRVIEW HOTEL<br />

The 127-room Fairview Hotel’s decor is<br />

typical of Georgian colonial style. The<br />

original hotel was built with a countryside<br />

atmosphere in mind. Having been built<br />

earlier, in 1946, a family bought and<br />

successfully ran it for three generations<br />

spanning almost 70 years, until only recently.<br />

Over the years, renovations have been done,<br />

careful to retain the country feel in what has<br />

now become a bustling urban center. Expect<br />

neatly manicured and well kept tropical<br />

gardens, four restaurants, a swimming pool,<br />

sundowner bar with pianist, and more.<br />

Location: Bishop Rd. www.clhg.com<br />

NAIROBI SERENA HOTEL<br />

NOMAD MAGAZINE 2019 25


CITY HOTELS<br />

APARTMENTS<br />

KINGFISHER NEST<br />

Named after the home of the striking<br />

kingfisher birds, the two-bedroom serviced<br />

apartments here are spacious and<br />

comfortable, and come with a fully functional<br />

kitchen, two bathrooms and a large balcony.<br />

The apartments have a rooftop heated pool<br />

and gym, where you can work out or go for<br />

a relaxing dip while taking in the Nairobi<br />

skyline. Indulge in Italian and Indian cuisine<br />

at Feaston, the restaurant on the first floor.<br />

Meals can however also be provided at<br />

the comfort of your apartment. Location:<br />

Opposite the former Nakumatt Ukay,<br />

Westlands. www.kingfishernest.com<br />

GEMSUITES RIVERSIDE<br />

The property consists of one and two<br />

bedroom apartments, and presidential suites.<br />

Each is designed with large panel windows,<br />

spacious wardrobes, a living and dining<br />

area as well as a fully equipped open plan<br />

kitchen with modern facilities. If you’re not<br />

keen to cook, however, head up to the 11th<br />

floor for some continental cuisine at the main<br />

restaurant, Argenti, which means “silver” in<br />

Italian. There is even a gym with a fitness<br />

instructor, sauna and steam room, as well as<br />

a world class spa. Location: Riverside Lane.<br />

www.gemsuites.com<br />

KINGFISHER NEST<br />

PALACINA RESIDENCE & SUITES<br />

The beautifully-furnished one, two and<br />

three-bedroom suites which all have very<br />

well-equipped kitchens come with all the<br />

conveniences of a hotel – the Moonflower<br />

restaurant on site, a lobby with sofas to sink<br />

into, and daily breakfast. There are also<br />

double bedrooms available, the newer ones,<br />

at a higher price, in The Residence North.<br />

Throughout the hotel is the Palacina touch,<br />

and the interior design arm is situated in the<br />

shop just next door. There is a long indoor<br />

pool and gym on site. Location: off Dennis<br />

Pritt Rd, Kilimani. www.palacina.com<br />

PALACINA<br />

26 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE


CITY HOTELS<br />

SERENE<br />

KAREN BLIXEN GARDEN<br />

COTTAGES<br />

The cottages have been designed after<br />

the historic Swedo House which was<br />

originally built as a hunting lodge in 1906.<br />

They give a sense of relieving history in<br />

elegant style, with high beam ceilings with<br />

fireplaces, and wood and mazeras stone<br />

floors complimenting modern bathrooms. All<br />

cottages have a verandah for relaxing while<br />

enjoying the birds, butterflies and flowers of<br />

the garden. They even have feeders to attract<br />

a wide variety of birds. A private swimming<br />

pool and private garden bar are available<br />

for a relaxing afternoon. Location: Karen Rd,<br />

Karen. www.karenblixencoffeegarden.com<br />

EMAKOKO<br />

NAIROBI TENTED CAMP<br />

This Porini-branded camp is an intimate<br />

property in a shaded part of the national<br />

park, and has just nine tents and a minimal<br />

footprint. All are set on a wooded rise above<br />

the main part of the camp. The communal<br />

area is a lovely, old-style area with large<br />

sofas and leather armchairs, again all<br />

under canvas. By staying here, guests<br />

access the wealth of Africa knowledge of<br />

the Gamewatchers Safari family, started by<br />

safari old-timer Jake Grieves-Cooke who has<br />

decades of experience in Kenya’s tourism<br />

sector. Location: within NNP, Langata.<br />

www.nairobitentedcamp.com<br />

EMAKOKO<br />

This 10-room classy property has hosted all<br />

manner of celebs, including Madonna. It<br />

is the home of Emma and Anthony Childs<br />

who have created a luxurious bush idyll, a<br />

true escape whether en route to safari, or<br />

just looking for an escape from the city for<br />

a night or two. The bedrooms, all of which<br />

overlook the park, are huge and designed<br />

with a modern, contemporary feel. Each has<br />

a fireplace for chilly nights, and guests can<br />

feast on the views from their own wooden<br />

decks. Within NNP, Langata.<br />

www.emakoko.com<br />

NAIROBI TENTED CAMP<br />

NOMAD MAGAZINE 2019 27


CITY HOTELS<br />

HOTELS IN A MALL<br />

TRIBE HOTEL<br />

The hotel is softly lit with warm colours, and<br />

boasts a good steakhouse called Jiko. The<br />

standard rooms are spacious – some with a<br />

bath, others are shower only – and adorned<br />

with colourful artworks and tribal artefacts.<br />

The tribal theme plays out across the hotel,<br />

which has some 900 pieces from around<br />

the continent. There’s a library with 3,000<br />

books, a stone table on a raised deck in the<br />

pool should the idea of dining with water<br />

lapping around your feet appeal, and Kaya<br />

spa. Location: Village Market.<br />

www.tribe-hotel.com<br />

TRADEMARK HOTEL<br />

With 215-rooms, this elegant and urban<br />

business hotel is inspired by the cultural and<br />

creative renaissance in Nairobi, reflecting<br />

the city’s industrious and innovative nature<br />

in its design. Each sound proof room offers<br />

a workstation, black-out curtains and various<br />

amenities. There is a clubhouse with striking<br />

views of the area on the topmost floor.<br />

Harvest, the hotel’s open grill brasserie,<br />

has excellent cuts of meat and focuses on<br />

farm fresh ingredients carefully paired with<br />

exquisite wines from their walk-in wine<br />

room, for the perfect dining out experience.<br />

Location: Village Market.<br />

www.trademark-hotel.com<br />

TRIBE HOTEL<br />

CITY LODGE HOTEL<br />

AT TWO RIVERS<br />

Opened by South African hospitality group<br />

City Lodge, it has 171 beautifully designed<br />

sound-proof rooms that strike a good<br />

balance between comfort and style. Rooms<br />

range from standard, presidential and those<br />

adapted for guests with physical disabilities.<br />

While the bathrooms feature showers,<br />

selected rooms offer baths. Guests can enjoy<br />

their meals at the cafe for breakfast, lunch<br />

and a light dinner, as well as a sundowner<br />

bar service. The hotel also has a swimming<br />

pool, boardrooms and a well equipped<br />

fitness center. Location: Two Rivers Mall.<br />

www.clhg.com<br />

TRADEMARK<br />

CITY LODGE<br />

28 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE


CITY HOTELS<br />

BUDGET<br />

WILDEBEEST ECO CAMP<br />

This well-run hotel is unexpected given its<br />

location in the Langata suburb encircling<br />

a small marsh-bordered lake. It caters<br />

predominantly to groups and younger<br />

travellers, but has attractive whitewashed<br />

rooms as well as glamping options in the<br />

deluxe safari tent, and a range of more<br />

budget options right down to a two-man<br />

tent and dorm rooms. Meals are taken on<br />

the large deck overlooking the swimming<br />

pool, and it’s an enticing spot for kids given<br />

the playground and mini zipline. Location:<br />

Mokoyeti Rd West, Langata.<br />

www.wildebeestecocamp.com<br />

KENYA COMFORT HOTEL<br />

This is a two-star hotel with 91 rooms<br />

located at the junction of Muindi Mbingu<br />

and Monrovia Streets, overlooking the<br />

lovely Jeevanjee Gardens. The hotel offers<br />

en-suite compact budget, standard and<br />

superior rooms. At the restaurant, all meals<br />

are prepared from fresh ingredients and the<br />

menu largely features Kenyan cuisine. The<br />

group also has three-star suites, in Kilimani,<br />

just around State House. Enjoy an aerial<br />

view of Nairobi from the rooftop sun lounge<br />

or relax at the steam and sauna rooms.<br />

Personalized packages for conferences and<br />

more are available. Location: CBD.<br />

www.kenyacomfort.com<br />

MANYATTA BACKPACKERS<br />

The house can host up to 30 people. Rooms<br />

here range from single and double to six and<br />

eight person dorms, and these have shared<br />

washrooms. There is a communal living room<br />

and dining area, great for mingling with<br />

fellow backpackers. The outdoor restaurant<br />

serves freshly prepared food with an open<br />

fireplace for extra warmth on those cold<br />

Nairobi spells, best enjoyed with a drink<br />

from the bar. The staff is very friendly and the<br />

house is located in the serene neighbourhood<br />

of Kilimani, just about 2km from the CBD.<br />

www.manyattabackpackers.com<br />

WILDEBEEST ECO CAMP<br />

NOMAD MAGAZINE 2019 29


CITY HOTELS<br />

DECOR<br />

AFRICAN HERITAGE HOUSE<br />

An architectural gem reminiscent of Timbuktustyle<br />

mud buildings, the house is crammed<br />

with rare art pieces collected from all over<br />

the continent by Alan Donovan, who built it<br />

following the demise of the African Heritage<br />

gallery in town. Each of the four bedrooms<br />

is themed with its own eclectic style, from the<br />

beds with the trinket holders on the carved<br />

bed-posts to the rock-pool like bathroom. It’s<br />

also a fascinating place to simply visit for<br />

a tour of the weird and wonderful African<br />

art. Book ahead. Location: Mombasa Rd,<br />

Mlolongo www.africanheritagehouse.info<br />

THE KING POST<br />

This is a Swahili village smack in the middle<br />

of Nairobi. It features a unique architectural<br />

synthesis as interesting as the influences<br />

on the Swahili culture itself, with Omani,<br />

Portuguese, Indian, African and British flair.<br />

Right from the wooden intricately carved gate<br />

with large brass studs, narrow alleyways<br />

lead you to the tranquility of your apartment,<br />

and you might as well be in Zanzibar.<br />

Apartments range from studios to three<br />

bedrooms. A gym, restaurant, hair salon<br />

and fashion boutique are also within the<br />

premises. Location: Rhapta Rd, Westlands.<br />

www.gablesgroup.co.ke<br />

AFRICAN HERITAGE HOUSE<br />

DUSITD2 NAIROBI<br />

Here, style, entertainment and art converge.<br />

The decor is contemporary, colourful and<br />

chic with a refreshing sense of playfulness<br />

and exciting installations for art lovers.<br />

Offering world class cuisine from its array<br />

of bars and restaurants, stylish and spacious<br />

guest rooms, the award winning Devarana<br />

Spa and a striking red swimming pool,<br />

dusitD2 is the perfect urban retreat for both<br />

work and play. After closing down following<br />

the widely-covered attacks last year, the<br />

hotel reopens with a special accommodation<br />

package offering 20% off the Dusit Best<br />

Available Rate. Location: 14 Riverside Drive.<br />

www.d2nairobi.com<br />

DUSIT D2<br />

30 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE


CITY HOTELS<br />

AIRPORT<br />

FOUR POINTS BY SHERATON<br />

NAIROBI AIRPORT<br />

There is a distinct vertical garden which starts<br />

from the ground floor and winds all the way<br />

up to the hotel’s fifth floor. In any of the 172<br />

guestrooms, there is a sense of thought in the<br />

design. If it’s something a little more indulgent<br />

that you want, a bathtub overlooking the<br />

National Park is just the thing in the Executive<br />

Suite. The rooftop restaurant has a pool,<br />

overlooks the JKIA runway on one side and<br />

the park on the other, and has a colourful<br />

mural by graffiti artist Bankslave. Location:<br />

Tower Avenue JKIA. www.marriott.com<br />

FOUR POINTS BY SHERATON JKIA<br />

OLE SERENI<br />

With the stunning views of the park,<br />

especially when the animals come to the<br />

waterhole, this alone make Ole Sereni oneof-a-kind.<br />

Boasting modern technology and<br />

furnishings with an African-inspired décor,<br />

all rooms serve as a comfortable home<br />

away from home. Each of their four dining<br />

options capitalise on the unique location<br />

along the park, whether looking out over an<br />

infinity pool or from the fourth-floor at Eagle’s<br />

The Steakhouse. Here, you can enjoy fresh<br />

seafood flown in from Kenya’s coast or handpicked,<br />

aged steaks. Location: Mombasa Rd.<br />

ole-sereni.com<br />

HILTON GARDEN INN<br />

Start each morning with breakfast at the<br />

on-site restaurant or grab a quick snack at<br />

the 24-hour Pavilion Pantry. Unwind with<br />

evening room service. Spend the afternoon at<br />

the 20m heated rooftop infinity pool, or the<br />

24 hour well-equipped fitness center. Choose<br />

from any of the 175 air-conditioned guest<br />

rooms which includes complimentary WiFi, a<br />

well-lit work area, mini-refrigerator and flatscreen<br />

TV with freeview channels. Unwind<br />

with a drink in the relaxed lounge bar<br />

before enjoying a meal in the Garden Grille.<br />

Location: Mombasa Rd. www.hilton.com<br />

OLE SERENI<br />

NOMAD MAGAZINE 2019 31


CITY HOTELS<br />

BUSINESS<br />

VILLA ROSA KEMPINSKI<br />

Offering the perfect fusion of European<br />

luxury and Kenyan hospitality, Villa Rosa<br />

Kempinski is a unique destination where<br />

guests can spend time relaxing or working.<br />

In addition to the 200 rooms and suites<br />

distributed throughout its ten floors, you will<br />

also find exquisite dining opportunities here.<br />

Their dining selection includes Cafe Villa<br />

Rosa, K Lounge which is the lobby lounge,<br />

Balcony Bar, Chinese Restaurant 88, Italian<br />

Restaurant LUCCA and a Levant -style lounge<br />

and restaurant called Tambourin. The hotel<br />

also has a grand ballroom and Kempinski<br />

The Spa. Location: Chiromo Rd.<br />

www.kempinski.com<br />

PARK INN BY RADISSON<br />

The 140 rooms here are designed for<br />

comfort, with a fantastic range of amenities<br />

to enhance your stay. Enjoy all-day dining at<br />

the in-house restaurant and terrace bar, or<br />

relax with friends at the rooftop lounge bar<br />

which offers amazing views of the Westlands<br />

neighbourhood. Keep up with your workout<br />

routine in the gym, or cool off in the<br />

swimming pool. For business, host your next<br />

conference, seminar, boardroom meeting<br />

or event in their convenient, on-site meeting<br />

rooms. There are five of those, ranging from<br />

20 to 140 square meters. Location: Waiyaki<br />

Way. www.radissonhotels.com<br />

VILLA ROSA KEMPINSKI<br />

SANKARA AUTOGRAPH<br />

COLLECTION<br />

Spacious luxury rooms and suites at this<br />

luxury hotel are bathed in natural light. The<br />

contemporary interior design, array of art<br />

and in-room facilities provide the highest<br />

level of comfort. There are several restaurants<br />

such as Graze, a New York-style steakhouse<br />

offering aged beef, succulent seafood and<br />

indulgent desserts paired with some of the<br />

finest wines and whiskies. With more than<br />

250 square metres of multi-functional event<br />

facilities, they offer one of the most exclusive<br />

and convenient venues for corporate<br />

gatherings in Nairobi. Location: Woodvale<br />

Grove, Westlands. www.sankara.com.<br />

SANKARA<br />

32 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE


CITY HOTELS<br />

PRIDE INN RAPHTA<br />

This quiet three-star hotel was just recently<br />

refurbished. The cottage-style rooms are lined<br />

along a courtyard, and are shaded by trees<br />

and greenery making for a rather serene<br />

setting. The regular in-room facilities such as<br />

a work surface, DSTV, WiFi, fridge, a tea<br />

station and more are available. A swimming<br />

pool and restaurant with a vast multi-cuisine<br />

menu are available. For business travelers,<br />

the brand is renowned for its conferencing<br />

facilities, and they have another location<br />

in the neighbourhood just next to Graffins<br />

college. Location: Raphta Rd, Westlands.<br />

www.prideinn.co.ke<br />

IBIS STYLES<br />

THE HERON PORTICO<br />

Choose from a range of accommodation<br />

options such as the junior suites (which<br />

include a separate living area and a<br />

kitchenette) or standard and superior rooms.<br />

Great amenities and stunning interiors make<br />

this stylish and comfortable hotel an ideal<br />

choice. Choose from five fully equipped<br />

meeting and event halls for a wide array<br />

of gatherings like conferences, exhibitions,<br />

weddings and more. For foodies, there<br />

are four options for dining, and these offer<br />

patrons an array of international and local<br />

cuisine. Location: Jakaya Kikwete Rd.<br />

www.theheronportico.com<br />

IBIS STYLES<br />

This chic and stylish hotel is the ultimate<br />

stopover for mixing of business and leisure.<br />

Restaurants such as Kilele Nyama and<br />

Utamu are available and offer a range of<br />

cuisine (the former in particular has a must-try<br />

mixed-grill platter). If you are keen to grab<br />

some post-meeting drinks, Tusker Lite Sky Bar<br />

can get quite lively on the weekends, and is<br />

the perfect spot to watch the city light up at<br />

night. Accommodation ranges from double to<br />

twin, triple and family rooms. Five conference<br />

facilities are available. Location: Rhapta Rd,<br />

Westlands. www.ibisstylesnairobi.com<br />

PRIDE INN<br />

NOMAD MAGAZINE 2019 33


Photographer: Trevor Maingi<br />

@the_mentalyst<br />

34 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE


NAIROBI<br />

With a background in Software<br />

Engineering and Aerospace Engineering,<br />

I decided to chase my wildest dreams<br />

of becoming a photographer. I've never<br />

really enjoyed labels and prefer to let a<br />

photograph speak for itself. I do however<br />

like to think of myself as a travel and<br />

lifestyle photographer/filmmaker. When<br />

it comes to urbanscape photography, I<br />

enjoy playing with lines, patterns and<br />

shapes. For those looking to venture into<br />

this field, here are some tips to always<br />

keep in mind:<br />

GEAR: Think about accessories such as a<br />

tripod and filters which can really play a<br />

big role in getting the best shots. Always<br />

carry extra batteries as well.<br />

COMPOSITION: Draw the viewer's eye by<br />

using leading lines, contrast, patterns and<br />

texture to bring cities to life.<br />

LENSES: Experiment with various lenses. I<br />

always find myself shooting using a wide<br />

and a zoom lens. The former is amazing,<br />

but details in a shot tell a different story.<br />

MOTION: This is where the ND filter<br />

comes through. Use one during the day<br />

to be able to shoot long exposure photos.<br />

At night, you will have less light for long<br />

exposures.<br />

PEOPLE: Incorporate human elements into<br />

your composition. People can not only<br />

bring life to cities but also help convey<br />

scale.<br />

RESEARCH: Find out key locations or<br />

vantage points to shoot from. Also find out<br />

if you need permission or a license.<br />

TIME OF DAY: Light is key. Pay attention to<br />

how it brings life to a city. I enjoy shooting<br />

in the early morning light, and the streets<br />

are also usually less busy. Also use<br />

shadows and sunsets to your advantage.<br />

VANTAGE POINT: If there are tall buildings<br />

next to you, shoot from street level looking<br />

up. Try different angles.<br />

Manual focus: With urbanscape, you<br />

won't be dealing with fast moving objects<br />

so switch to manual focus for consistently<br />

sharp images.<br />

EXPERIMENT: Go to the same area a<br />

couple times and try various techniques.<br />

SAFETY: Every city has its fair share of the<br />

good and bad. Ask around for places to<br />

avoid and always be aware of what's<br />

happening around you.<br />

NOMAD MAGAZINE 2019 35


36 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE


NAIROBI<br />

NOMAD MAGAZINE 2019 37


A MARA SAFARI<br />

WITH MY DAUGHTER<br />

For families with kids, Simon Marsh lays out some fun activities to<br />

do on safari to ensure both parents and their children have fun.<br />

38 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE


ADVENTURE<br />

T<br />

he first time I took my<br />

daughter on safari as<br />

a three year old, she<br />

was transfixed with the<br />

experience and the<br />

creatures she had only<br />

ever heard about in stories.<br />

Fast forward to five years and innumerable<br />

excursions later, now the sighting of a<br />

big cat does no more than elicit a slight<br />

murmur of interest. A challenge to many<br />

seasoned parents on a bush excursion is<br />

how to make it an enjoyable, fulfilling and<br />

worthwhile experience for younger children<br />

whilst getting the most out of the experience<br />

themselves, all while avoiding arguments.<br />

Over the years, I have sought to instill a<br />

knowledge and passion for the country she<br />

knows as home, and in particular its flora<br />

and fauna. Children learn through interaction<br />

and remember through experiences so for<br />

me it was important to incorporate both<br />

while on safari, as well as hopefully getting<br />

a few epic pictures for the family album.<br />

The Mara never disappoints, and despite<br />

the heavy rains, this trip<br />

was no exception. In the<br />

quieter times, we were<br />

able to test each other’s<br />

knowledge and that of<br />

our Masai guide John<br />

by setting each other<br />

quizzes to test our bush<br />

knowledge. A pencil<br />

and notebook are cheap<br />

tools to occupy young<br />

minds, and they can also<br />

get to draw and colour<br />

what they see.<br />

A small inexpensive<br />

camera is another great<br />

investment, although it<br />

inevitably means a lot<br />

of time subsequently<br />

spent deleting blurry<br />

selfies. The first time<br />

she was able to enter<br />

the school wildlife<br />

photography competition with her own<br />

pictures led to a sustained interest in all<br />

things four-legged which gives hope that<br />

a future “photographer of the year” may<br />

currently be undergoing the early stages of<br />

apprenticeship.<br />

Back at camp, the guides and staff<br />

had prepared a range of fun activities. An<br />

increasingly competitive set of trials ensued<br />

between the staff, the determined eight year<br />

old and her talent-deficient father. These<br />

included the making of a bow and arrow<br />

followed by the multiple perforation of the<br />

cardboard-box derived target.<br />

We also took a<br />

mould of a big cat’s<br />

footprint. Much of<br />

the fun was in the<br />

scrambling around<br />

to find a suitable<br />

print, then being<br />

patient enough for<br />

it to set.<br />

Next up was lighting fires the traditional<br />

Maasai way, by rapidly rubbing<br />

‘sandpaper wood’ against another soft<br />

wooden base. Enough friction is created<br />

resulting in light embers which are then<br />

transferred to some very dry elephant dung,<br />

and this is carefully nurtured to create<br />

flames. Not nearly as easy as it looks, it<br />

transpired, when it was our turn.<br />

We also took a mould of a big cat’s<br />

footprint. Much of the fun was in the<br />

scrambling around to find a suitable print,<br />

then being patient enough for it to set. For<br />

my daughter, this came in handy while<br />

relating the experiences of the safari to her<br />

school friends in the show-and-tell section.<br />

The wonders of the bush can easily be<br />

explored on foot, and little experiences<br />

here and there such as luring a wolf-spider<br />

from its hole with a blade of grass or<br />

trying to determine which animal frequents<br />

a particular burrow based on what<br />

droppings or tracks are nearby, are always<br />

exciting. There is also the cheeky insertion<br />

of a finger into wet buffalo dung then<br />

pretending to taste it that<br />

always elicits giggles and<br />

mirthful faces of disgust.<br />

A family safari is<br />

however just as much<br />

about spending quality<br />

time together away<br />

from the distractions<br />

of everyday life as it is<br />

about the game viewing.<br />

I found her opening up<br />

about the highs and lows<br />

of school life, what was<br />

on her mind and being<br />

able to talk about hopes,<br />

dreams and aspirations<br />

in a way that was rarely<br />

possible around hectic<br />

work, school and social<br />

schedules. To me that's<br />

the real beauty of the<br />

experience, time together<br />

reminiscent of a bygone<br />

era and making memories that we will both<br />

remember.<br />

We stayed at Basecamp Leopard Hill,<br />

the newest addition to their portfolio in<br />

the Naibosho conservancy. One of the<br />

innovations in their well-outfitted tents is<br />

the ability to open a portion of the roof<br />

at the press of a button which will appeal<br />

to stargazers, who need not even get out<br />

of bed. Each room also has its own deck<br />

and firepit from where parents can enjoy<br />

romantic meals while the children sleep<br />

peacefully inside.<br />

NOMAD MAGAZINE 2019 39


A PIKI PIKI RIDE THROUGH<br />

SOUTH NYANZA<br />

From a bustling nightlife in Kisii to a fishing village in Homa Bay,<br />

Martyn Pollock tears across counties on the wheels of a Honda Ace<br />

before hopping aboard a speedboat to the little-known Ngodhe Rao<br />

Island, and back.<br />

40 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE


ROAD TRIP<br />

Neon lights and flat screen<br />

TVs illuminate the clubs<br />

on Kisii’s second street.<br />

Couples mostly, sit<br />

packed together into small<br />

booths eating ugali and<br />

choma late into the night<br />

while Afro-Dance-Pop blares out of huge<br />

speakers several decibels too loud. Despite<br />

the nightlife on offer, I find myself on some<br />

backstreet dive. An unmarked door takes<br />

me and a friend four or five storeys up to<br />

what reminds me of a Scottish working-man’s<br />

social club; faded smoke-stained furniture<br />

and used sodden beer mats. Patrons line the<br />

bar knocking back high-octane Guinness<br />

and nodding to the rhythm. The band plays<br />

Kisii traditional music with a Latin beat, it’s<br />

a sound like I’ve never heard before and the<br />

place is jumping.<br />

Dancing is an all-male sport with plenty<br />

of awkward eye contact. In wellie boots and<br />

a ski jacket, our de facto leader controls the<br />

pack; he drops, and we follow time and time<br />

again. The band sweating into their mics<br />

seem to constantly lift the<br />

tempo and it’s gone half past<br />

three by the time we decide<br />

to make the journey home.<br />

Kisii has some surprisingly<br />

active nightlife. It’s the kind of<br />

surprise night you don’t forget<br />

and the next morning I’m<br />

feeling worse for wear. But<br />

I’ve got a free weekend, time<br />

to kill and I want to make the<br />

most of what South Nyanza<br />

has to offer.<br />

The Honda Ace is to the<br />

piki piki world what the Prado<br />

is to the world of luxury 4x4s:<br />

a premium machine with a<br />

premium price tag. They are<br />

pretty much all the same bike,<br />

but this has a feel of quality<br />

and workmanship that means<br />

even the older bikes still<br />

look and feel new. A chorus of ‘muzungu,<br />

muzungu’ follows as I jockey through Kisii<br />

town traffic. Stopping, starting, weaving<br />

the ride is exciting if a bit terrifying. After a<br />

couple of near misses, I’m free of the urban<br />

chaos and on the open road. Ahead of me<br />

lies pristine Chinese tarmac meandering its<br />

way westwards down, down, and further<br />

down towards Lake Victoria.<br />

Kisii town, and Kisii County for that<br />

matter, do not get large numbers of foreign<br />

visitors. A small Indian community of<br />

business owners and less than a handful of<br />

expats (of which I am one) and that’s the<br />

whole county. A shame really as the rolling<br />

hills of South Nyanza are truly spectacular.<br />

Banana, coffee, tea, avocado and of course<br />

maize cover every inch of land. If you drop<br />

seeds here, they will grow. And for this<br />

reason, it is the most populous county in<br />

Kenya. It’s a sort of urban-rural sprawl where<br />

families are densely packed into tiny parcels<br />

of subsistence farm land. The villages are<br />

idyllic. Immaculate homesteads with wellbuilt<br />

houses, only the mabati sheet roofs and<br />

mobile phones serve as reminders that you<br />

are indeed in 2019.<br />

I take advantage of the new road and<br />

gun the bike through its 4-speed box all the<br />

way to a brisk 95Kph (downhill). The open<br />

road is a dream, but I continually remind<br />

myself that dangers lurk, and I try to remain<br />

focussed. Soon I’m in Homa Bay county<br />

and the dramatic landscape of the lakeside<br />

mountains and islands unfold in front of me.<br />

I try not to get too lost in the moment for fear<br />

of speed bumps, potholes and of course<br />

other road users.<br />

A boy of around nine years holds his<br />

hand out at the side of the road. As I come<br />

to a stop, he just stares at me wondering if<br />

his eyes are telling the truth. ‘Wathi’, the only<br />

word I know in Luo, which means ‘let’s go’,<br />

and we are on our way. We ride in silence<br />

for a couple of miles until he says ‘hapa’ and<br />

as I come to a stop he runs off into the bush<br />

to tell everyone he meets about his free ride,<br />

questioning his own story with each iteration.<br />

I’ve decided to camp at Wayando<br />

Beach Eco Resort and I pitch my tent with<br />

a beautiful view of the lake. It’s a modest<br />

place in an excellent setting, serving up<br />

succulent fresh fish dishes at bargain prices.<br />

A great place to stay if you are travelling<br />

on a budget. After nearly three hours in<br />

the saddle and darkness setting in, I settle<br />

down for a few beers in front of an open<br />

fire watching the shifting shadows as the sun<br />

light turns to moonlight over this great body<br />

of water.<br />

The next morning, I charter a fishing<br />

boat to Ngodhe Rao Island with the only<br />

other guest in the resort. Under a patchwork<br />

sail we cruise between the two islands<br />

at great speed. Our fishermen cum tour<br />

operators are eager to please. There’s<br />

Walter, the confident outgoing one with a<br />

steady stream of interesting facts, Bernard,<br />

the intern who is doing almost all the work<br />

and Dickenson who sits at the front almost<br />

in silence. It’s hard to work out who is the<br />

boss, but my money is on Dickenson. The<br />

waves lap at the boat as the morning sun<br />

begins to show its strength on my Celtic<br />

skin. The Sound is awash with boats, but<br />

hardly an engine can be heard as almost<br />

every boat is as the traditional dhow sailing<br />

design. Ngodhe Rao Island reminds me<br />

of a mythical pirate island in some classic<br />

eighteenth-century novel. Two distinct rocky<br />

peaks that lead down steep slopes to the<br />

lake. Coves and inlets patrolled by tropical<br />

birds and countless monitor lizards. But<br />

far from deserted this island has a vibrant<br />

community.<br />

We land at a small fishing village on the<br />

biggest stretch of beach. It<br />

is the closest thing to a town<br />

on the island. There are<br />

no cars and no bikes, and<br />

the pace of life is probably<br />

little changed in decades.<br />

Kids play in the water while<br />

adults fish with varying<br />

methods; line and net with<br />

the latter being a communal<br />

affair. Instantly I’m roped into<br />

hauling in the day’s catch.<br />

No mean feat as huge nets<br />

are pulled by opposing<br />

parties from hundreds of<br />

meters offshore. After about<br />

40 mins of rhythmic heaving,<br />

I’m exhausted, but the net<br />

is on shore and the catch<br />

distributed evenly among<br />

the two parties. As I watch,<br />

a man is weaving a net on<br />

a huge wooden loom. “Which country?”<br />

he asks. “UK,” I reply. “How do you like<br />

Trump? I like Trump, he is a great leader,”<br />

he says. I nod, not wanting to correct him.<br />

Geopolitics aside and we are back on the<br />

boat to finish the circumnavigation of this<br />

idyllic isle and back to our campsite.<br />

I’ve got a three-hour blast ahead of me<br />

and I want to get back before nightfall. For<br />

all its pluses, the Honda Ace doesn’t have<br />

a fuel gauge which makes me nervous<br />

about coming unstuck. The journey back is<br />

smoother and faster. I’m used to the bike<br />

now and feel much more confident on the<br />

road. I turn into Suneka, the first town back<br />

in Gusii lands and the chorus of “muzungu”<br />

from every man, child and mzee begins<br />

again. I’m home.<br />

NOMAD MAGAZINE 2019 41


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42 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE<br />

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NOMAD MAGAZINE 2019 43


SANDSTORM: WHAT I PACK<br />

Dorothy Tote bag from<br />

Endo² X Sandstorm<br />

collection<br />

Ksh6,900<br />

Patti Endo is a Kenyan-Japanese artist who, together with<br />

her sister Yvonne, just collaborated with Sandstorm on the<br />

Endo² X Sandstorm line of bags featuring Patti's signature<br />

art. When running around Nairobi, here’s what you’re likely<br />

to find in her tote bag.<br />

ZARA LEATHER JACKET - You can never go wrong with a leather jacket;<br />

it's a perfect statement piece that goes with absolutely everything I wear,<br />

and also keeps me warm in this unpredictable Nairobi weather.<br />

ROGER & GALLET PERFUME “THÉ FANTAISIE”- One of my favourite<br />

everyday scents. I just throw it in my bag and spruce up as needed<br />

wherever I go.<br />

LUSH HANDY GURUGU HAND CREAM - Moisturised skin is everything<br />

to me, especially because I have tattoos. This all-natural cream keeps my<br />

skin soft and helps keep my tattoos looking vibrant.<br />

RAY-BAN ROUND METAL SUNGLASSES - Essential for my day to day...you<br />

can never go wrong with a pair of Ray Bans!<br />

MOSCHINO MAKEUP BAG - I never leave the house without it! It carries<br />

all my little bits and bobs which mainly includes my make up items for a<br />

touch up here and there.<br />

FENTY LIP PAINT IN “UNCENSORED” - Red Lipstick is my go-to! I'm<br />

always rocking it no matter what. My favourites are either Fenty Lip Paint<br />

in “Uncensored” or Mac “Ruby Woo”.<br />

CARMEX CHERRY LIP BALM - hands down my favourite lip balm ever.<br />

PHONE AND CHARGER- Just can’t live without them. I’m always chatting<br />

with family and friends, and also like to take pictures of adorable<br />

animals.<br />

44 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE


NOMAD MAGAZINE 2019 45


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46 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE<br />

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