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DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE<br />
ISSUE 21| AUGUST/SEPTEMBER | FREE COPY<br />
CITY HOTELS<br />
OUR FAVOURITE NAIROBI PROPERTIES<br />
PIKI PIKI RIDE<br />
THROUGH KISII<br />
ON SAFARI WITH<br />
MY DAUGHTER<br />
NOTES FROM<br />
THE BUSH
2 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE
NOMAD MAGAZINE 2019 1
Take in heavenly<br />
views of Africa.<br />
Start Something Priceless<br />
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Take off with the card<br />
that’s accepted across Africa<br />
and around the globe.<br />
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EDITOR’S NOTE<br />
WHERE IN THE WORLD<br />
FEELS MOST LIKE HOME<br />
RIGHT NOW?<br />
EMILY WARD<br />
Topshots, Page - 10<br />
IS “SOMEDAY” JUST CODE FOR NEVER?<br />
A<br />
s we all but sprint into the last quarter of the year (can time just<br />
stop to catch its breath for a quick second?) I can’t help but think<br />
about all the highly anticipated trips that haven’t quite come to be<br />
realised yet. We still have about four months to go, but still...<br />
My desk keeps mocking me. No, not an office one as I have<br />
none because I’m away so much that whenever I pop in, I’m always resigned<br />
to lounging out on the balcony with the garden monkeys. It is the desk in my<br />
apartment, which is strewn with souvenirs, travel magazines and resentment.<br />
There’s the travel book on Italy, where I had hoped to have done cliche tourist<br />
things like taking selfies on a gondola in Venice or riding a vespa from some<br />
quirky little Airbnb in Florence for yet another dose of pasta and gelato from<br />
the family-run cafe down the street.<br />
There’s the worn out map of Africa, where I had marked out a tentative<br />
trail that would have taken me from Nairobi to Cape Town, checking out<br />
six countries along the way. On top of it lies postcards from Ghana, Egypt,<br />
Ethiopia and Morocco, four countries I had hoped to have checked out by<br />
now (granted, there’s a high chance of getting my passport stamped from at<br />
least two of those places in the next month).<br />
I’m not certain why I haven't quite gotten around to going on some of<br />
the trips I was so excited for at the beginning of the year. Things have kept<br />
coming up, and I keep saying I’ll still see these places ‘someday’. But do you<br />
know what Tom Cruise’s ever suave character says to an ever leggy Cameron<br />
Diaz about that word in the movie Knight and Day?<br />
He says, "Someday. That's a dangerous word. It's really just a code for<br />
'never'".<br />
But, really, that doesn’t apply to me. I will still tick off most of the countries<br />
on my list. Someday.<br />
wattaonthego<br />
Wendy Watta<br />
Jinja, Uganda. I'm<br />
originally from the<br />
UK but have lived<br />
here along the Nile<br />
River for most of the<br />
past 12 years. We were drawn here by the<br />
river but have stayed because of how much we<br />
love our lives here. There is a beautiful climate,<br />
exceptionally friendly people and lots of<br />
adventures to be had. Living abroad has given<br />
me so many opportunities to learn and grow<br />
and I will forever be grateful to Uganda for that.<br />
MARTYN POLLOCK<br />
A piki piki ride,<br />
Page - 40<br />
After ten years in the<br />
army and moving to a<br />
different hemisphere,<br />
you certainly begin<br />
to question what and<br />
where is home. I wouldn’t exactly call it that,<br />
but for now, weekly commuting takes me to an<br />
isolated village about 30 mins from Kisii town.<br />
The village of Bogeka is where I spend most<br />
of my nights. In a deep dark wood stands my<br />
three-bedroom bungalow devoid of running<br />
water and with an al fresco lavatory. It certainly<br />
has a rustic charm.<br />
ADITYA SHAH<br />
Topshots, Page - 8<br />
India. I traveled and<br />
worked in India for<br />
a year, and Mumbai<br />
tickled, tantalized and<br />
terrified all my senses.<br />
Incredible sights,<br />
riots of colour at every corner, a cacophony<br />
of sounds, aromatic and pungent smells, and<br />
the glorious flavour-packed food. Living there,<br />
travelling on the jam-packed local trains,<br />
exploring its streets, meeting its people and<br />
discovering its peculiar culture and climate<br />
makes it feel like home – it’s truly a vibrant<br />
melting pot.<br />
NOMAD ISSUE. 21 AUGUST 2019 · PUBLISHED BY WEBSIMBA LIMITED, ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.<br />
MANAGING DIRECTOR MIKUL SHAH EDITOR WENDY WATTA DESIGN BRIAN SIAMBI SALES VANESSA WANJIKU DIGITAL FAITH KANJA<br />
CONTRIBUTORS SAMANTHA DU TOIT, MARTYN POLLOCK, SIMON MARSH<br />
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS BRIAN SIAMBI, EMILY WARD, ADITYA SHAH, TREVOR MAINGI<br />
MARKETING & OPERATIONS DANIEL MUTHIANI, JANE NAITORE, ANGELA OMONDI SALES ENQUIRIES CALL NOMAD 0711 22 22 22<br />
EMAIL EDITOR@NOMADMAGAZINE.CO<br />
<strong>Nomad</strong>MagazineAfrica @<strong>Nomad</strong>MagAfrica @<strong>Nomad</strong>MagazineAfrica<br />
NOMAD MAGAZINE 2019 5
CONTENTS<br />
22<br />
6 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE
8<br />
34<br />
In this issue<br />
8. TOP SHOTS<br />
This month’s featured photographers<br />
capture the action of a kayaker during the<br />
Nile River Festival, and flamingos taking<br />
off during a sunset in Botswana.<br />
FEATURES<br />
12<br />
REGULARS<br />
12. NEWS<br />
Direct flights from Mumbai to Nairobi set<br />
to boost tourism, tourist numbers in Kenya<br />
hit an all-time high as the humpback<br />
whale migration season kicks off at the<br />
coast.<br />
14. WHATS ON<br />
From this year’s Magical Kenya Travel<br />
Expo the premiere of a documentary<br />
dedicated to Sudan the famous rhino,<br />
find a roundup of must-attend events this<br />
season.<br />
44. WHAT I PACK FOR MY TRAVELS<br />
Kenyan-Japanese artist Patti Endo, who<br />
together with her sister Yvonne just<br />
collaborated with Sandstorm on the<br />
Endo² X Sandstorm line of bags, gives us<br />
a peek inside her travel bag.<br />
33. CITY HOTELS<br />
From hotels in malls and in the bush to<br />
historic and airport hotels, in this special<br />
issue, we profile our pick of some top<br />
hotels from around Nairobi.<br />
38. A MARA SAFARI WITH MY DAUGHTER<br />
For families with kids, Simon Marsh lays<br />
out some fun activities to do on safari to<br />
ensure both parents and their children<br />
have fun.<br />
40. A PIKI PIKI RIDE THROUGH SOUTH<br />
NYANZA<br />
From a bustling nightlife in Kisii to a fishing<br />
village in Homa Bay, Martyn Pollock tears<br />
across counties on the wheels of a Honda<br />
Ace before hopping aboard a speedboat<br />
to the little-known Ngodhe Rao Island,<br />
and back.<br />
18. NOTES FROM THE BUSH<br />
As the moon illuminates the earth,<br />
scorpions crawl out of hiding, their<br />
exoskeletons glowing bright green/<br />
yellow under a UV torch due to a special<br />
fluorescent pigment in their exoskeleton,<br />
writes Samantha du Toit.<br />
ON THE COVER<br />
THE TRIBE HOTEL, NAIROBI<br />
IMAGE COURTESTY OF THE TRIBE HOTEL<br />
NOMAD MAGAZINE 2019 7
ADITYA SHAH<br />
Instagram: @mowglishah<br />
I shot this at Makgadikgadi Salt Pan,<br />
Botswana, at dusk, whose soft light I find<br />
perfect for bird photography. I used a<br />
Canon 5D Mark III with a Canon 100-<br />
400mm IS II lens using the settings:<br />
1/160, f/5.6, ISO 100, at 400mm<br />
TIPS: Behavior - birds have a predictable<br />
flight pattern. Observe these so you can<br />
anticipate their movements and position<br />
yourself. Composition - apply the rule of<br />
thirds to ensure you have space for the<br />
birds to fly in a certain direction and give<br />
the image breathing room.<br />
8 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE
NOMAD MAGAZINE 2019 9
EMILY WARD<br />
Instagram: @emwardphotos<br />
This shot was taken during the Nile River<br />
Festival 2019. Fortunately I'm a kayaker as<br />
well as a photographer, so with my camera<br />
in a dry bag between my legs, I was able to<br />
follow the kayakers as they paddled down<br />
river and surfed various waves along the<br />
way. I used a Nikon D750 with a Nikkor<br />
24mm 1.8 lens. My settings were: 1/2500<br />
sec at f/4.0, ISO 100, at 24mm.<br />
TIP: Consider your foreground elements.<br />
What can you include to make the image<br />
more interesting or help your story? What can<br />
you include that helps frame your subject?
TOP SHOTS<br />
NOMAD MAGAZINE 2019 11
WHAT’S ON<br />
PREMIERE OF KIFARU FILM<br />
DEDICATED TO RHINO SUDAN<br />
Kifaru is a film dedicated to Sudan, the<br />
last male Northern White Rhino in Kenya,<br />
who died last year. The award-winning<br />
documentary is proudly presented by Ol<br />
Pejeta Conservancy and will premiere on<br />
24th October at the Trademark Hotel. The<br />
feature-length documentary follows the lives of<br />
two young recruits who join Ol Pejeta’s rhino<br />
caretaker unit - a small group of rangers that<br />
protect and care for Sudan. Spanning their first<br />
four years on the job, Kifaru allows viewers<br />
to intimately experience the joys and pitfalls<br />
of wildlife conservation firsthand through the<br />
eyes of these caretakers who witness extinction<br />
happening in real-time. Get your ticket from<br />
mookh.com<br />
SUBMERGE- AN<br />
UNDERWATER<br />
PHOTOGRAPHIC<br />
EXHIBITION<br />
Nat Geo 2019 Explorer Jahawi<br />
Bertolli will be showcasing an<br />
underwater photographic and<br />
fundraising event on 30th August<br />
2019 at the Nairobi Serena Hotel<br />
from 6:00pm. The Kenyan-Italian<br />
photographer spends a great deal of<br />
his time diving into the depths of the<br />
ocean to document marine life with<br />
an aim of shedding a light on their<br />
conservation. There will be a live<br />
performance featuring Gilad and the<br />
Superband. Tickets go for Ksh 8,500<br />
and include a three course dinner,<br />
raffle, auction and more. To book<br />
your ticket call Nadine on<br />
+254 708379689.<br />
MAGICAL KENYA TRAVEL EXPO<br />
The Kenya Tourism Board is delighted to bring you the<br />
8th edition of the Magical Kenya Travel Expo which<br />
will be taking place from 2nd to 4th October at the<br />
KICC in Nairobi. Get to network and explore business<br />
opportunities at the leading travel trade expo in East<br />
Africa. Benefit from pre-scheduled appointments<br />
between exhibitors and hosted buyers, listen to the latest<br />
industry trends at their seminars, boost Africa sales from<br />
major global markets, and more. Your presence as an<br />
exhibitor, hosted buyer or trade visitor will go to ensure<br />
the continued development and growth of tourism in this<br />
region. For more information visit, mkte.co.ke<br />
NAIROBI BEER<br />
FESTIVAL<br />
The Nairobi Beer Festival is back<br />
from 6th-8th September at The<br />
Alchemist, and will also feature<br />
the city’s top DJs. Experience<br />
more than 35 beer tastings from<br />
all over the world paired with<br />
delicious gourmet bites. Enjoy<br />
unique craft beers, draft beers,<br />
lagers, ales and more. VIP ticket<br />
holders will receive, among other<br />
things, branded limited edition<br />
Sandstorm gifts and an exclusive<br />
professional beer glass set. For<br />
more information and tickets, visit<br />
ticketsasa.com<br />
12 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE
www.eabl.com<br />
A Promise Kept<br />
Since 1950<br />
EXCESSIVE ALCOHOL CONSUMPTION IS HARMFUL TO YOUR HEALTH.<br />
NOMAD MAGAZINE 2019 13<br />
NOT FOR SALE TO PERSONS UNDER 18 YEARS.
NEWS<br />
TOURIST NUMBERS TO HIT 2.2<br />
MILLION IN 2019<br />
The number of international tourists is expected<br />
to grow by 10 per cent from last year, CS Najib<br />
Balala has said, despite a slight drop in the first<br />
half. In 2018, 2,025,206 tourists visited Kenya,<br />
and that’s the highest ever in the country's tourism<br />
history. During the year’s first half , US led as the<br />
top market source for international tourists. This is<br />
an indication that among other factors, the direct<br />
flight to New York is having a substantial positive<br />
impact on tourism. The current political stability and<br />
heightened security are expected to support the<br />
industry's performance going forward. The Tourism<br />
ministry is putting up a strategy to capture Russia,<br />
China and Indian markets as international markets<br />
remain positive.<br />
HUMPBACK WHALE<br />
MIGRATION SEASON SETS IN<br />
AT THE COAST<br />
Every year, humpback whales migrate from<br />
Antarctica to warmer climates, congregating<br />
in Kenyan waters between July and August<br />
to calve and mate. For visitors, watching<br />
whales in their natural environment leaping<br />
out of the water, sometimes in pairs, or in<br />
larger family groups, is an amazing and<br />
unforgettable sight. Visitors mostly watch the<br />
whales from boats accommodating up to<br />
eight people for a trip costing between Ksh<br />
5,000 to Ksh 45,000 per person, depending<br />
on the operator. One of the best places to<br />
see whales is the Malindi-Watamu Marine<br />
National Reserve, where Watamu Marine<br />
Association (WMA) has studied dolphins<br />
and whales since 2011.<br />
DIRECT FLIGHTS FROM MUMBAI TO<br />
NAIROBI SET TO BOOST TOURISM<br />
A move by Air India to resume direct flights between Mumbai and Nairobi from<br />
September has been welcomed as a huge opportunity for the hospitality industry. Air<br />
India used to operate directly between India and Kenya but later abandoned those<br />
operations. The airline is expected to fly four times a week and will cut the time used<br />
to travel from between 10 and 11 hours to six hours. This will save hours spent on<br />
flights that usually involve long layovers in Dubai, and consequently, South Asia leisure<br />
travelers will have more time to spend experiencing all that Kenya has to offer. Data<br />
released in January by Tourism CS Najib Balala showed that India ranked among the<br />
top five markets for tourist international arrivals in Kenya.<br />
14 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE
NOMAD MAGAZINE 2019 15
SILVERPALM SPA & RESORT<br />
Bofa Road, Kilifi P.O. Box 41247-80100,<br />
Mombasa | Tel: +254-780745837 /+254 707745837<br />
Email: info@silverpalmkilifi.co.ke | www.silverpalmkilifi.com<br />
HIGHEST RANKED HOTEL<br />
IN KILIFI TOWN<br />
EA Classification 2017 by TRA
Nestled in the foothills of Mt Kenya, award-winning accommodation 40 minutes from Nanyuki, endless opportunities to relax, reconnect with nature and the special people<br />
in your life. Now offering half-day horse riding safaris into the neighbouring 36,000 acre, privately-owned wildlife conservancy.<br />
Proud to be #1 of 22 on TripAdvisor, B&Bs/Inns of Laikipa County<br />
For rates contact us at welcome@olepangifarm.com | We also offer resident rates | www.olepangifarm.com<br />
Set on a private 18,000 acre wildlife sanctuary,<br />
90 minutes from Nairobi,<br />
you will find Naivasha’s best kept secret.<br />
For reservations<br />
call:0722 200 596 or 0707 645 631<br />
email: reservations@oseriantwolakes.com<br />
NOMAD MAGAZINE 2019 17
NOTES FROM THE BUSH<br />
THEY COME<br />
CRAWLING IN<br />
THE MOONLIGHT…<br />
As the moon illuminates the earth, scorpions crawl out of<br />
hiding, their exoskeletons glowing bright green/yellow under<br />
a UV torch due to the special fluorescent pigment in their<br />
exoskeleton, writes Samantha du Toit.<br />
One of my favourite<br />
things about spending<br />
so much time outdoors,<br />
and sleeping in a tent,<br />
is knowing what phase<br />
of the moon it is on any<br />
given day. This is not<br />
something I think about when we go back<br />
to Nairobi, but out in the wilderness you<br />
can’t help but see the moon and know which<br />
nights you can navigate the path back to the<br />
tent without a torch to guide you.<br />
Some nights, as we lie in our tent with<br />
the flaps up so we can see outside, there<br />
is the complete darkness that comes with a<br />
moonless night. Indeed, it can be so dark<br />
that it is hard to tell whether my eyes are<br />
open or not. Then my other senses sharpen,<br />
and sounds and smells become clearer and<br />
more useful in piecing together the story<br />
outside. Whose footsteps are those crunching<br />
carefully through the leaves? Then, on other<br />
nights, the moon is so bright it wakes us up<br />
and we can see whoever is passing by, from<br />
the little mongoose to the large elephant.<br />
All manners of creatures come out only<br />
at night, but our favourite ones to look for<br />
are the scorpions. During the day we rarely<br />
see them, and it is such a surprise therefore<br />
to see just how many crawl out of the<br />
woodwork, literally, to start their day as the<br />
sun goes down. We recently purchased a<br />
good ‘black light’ which is a UV torch great<br />
for finding scorpions.<br />
To the children’s delight, scorpions glow<br />
bright green/yellow under UV light due<br />
to a special fluorescent pigment in their<br />
exoskeleton. I have not yet managed to find<br />
anyone who knows for sure why scorpions<br />
have this, but it is thought that they perhaps<br />
use it to see each other, warn predators of<br />
their venom or to detect the UV rays from<br />
the moon and stars, allowing them to know<br />
when it might be too bright for them to risk<br />
going out hunting, for fear of becoming prey.<br />
Most evenings after dinner, we now walk<br />
with the black light to our tent and count<br />
the number of scorpions we see. Often we<br />
count more than thirty on our five minute<br />
amble, and we are learning where we are<br />
most likely to find them, marvelling at how<br />
different they all are. Some stay in the barks<br />
of trees and seem to have the larger pincers<br />
and smaller tails; we can see these ones still<br />
in the same place in the day time, although<br />
hidden a little deeper inside their hideouts.<br />
Once we even saw two of them having<br />
what looked like an arm wrestle, pincers<br />
clashing and thrashing around as they tried<br />
to displace each other.<br />
Others we find scuttling around the<br />
undergrowth. Some big ones seem to have<br />
very small pincers and larger tails with sharp<br />
stingers on the end, and we make sure to<br />
steer clear of them. The children ask often<br />
where the scorpions go during the day,<br />
and I remind them of how I have mistakenly<br />
discovered the answer on more than one<br />
occasion. Their favourite story is about the<br />
day I once discovered a small scorpion<br />
asleep in a hand towel which was hanging<br />
on a tree branch outside our lunch tent.<br />
As I used the hand towel to dry my hands<br />
(not knowing there was a scorpion nestled<br />
on the inside), I must have given the scorpion<br />
quite a shock as it stung me on my finger. It<br />
was a heavy sting for a small creature and<br />
the pain was intense, lasting a long fifteen<br />
hours. It then vanished abruptly, leaving<br />
me no worse for wear but perhaps a little<br />
wiser as to where to check for slumbering<br />
scorpions in the future.<br />
As we snuggle into bed and turn off the<br />
lights, we compare scorpion counts. Closing<br />
our eyes, we feel the darkness folding in<br />
around us like a safe blanket, falling asleep<br />
listening to the sounds of the night creatures<br />
going about their nocturnal business.<br />
Samantha du Toit is a wildlife<br />
conservationist, working with SORALO, a<br />
Maasai land trust. She lives with her<br />
husband, Johann, and their two children at<br />
Shompole Wilderness, a tented camp in the<br />
Shompole Conservancy.<br />
18 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE
NOMAD MAGAZINE 2019 19
VIPINGO<br />
RIDGE<br />
10 YEARS ON<br />
In 2005, a sisal plantation sat neglected, sprawled<br />
across the rise of an ancient sand dune. Today, after<br />
years of stunning transformation, this is now home<br />
to Kenya’s premier golf course, some of the most<br />
luxurious residences on the coast and a vibrant<br />
community of people from all over the world.<br />
With high-level security, world-class amenities<br />
and panoramic views from the Indian Ocean to<br />
the Chodari Hills in the west, like nowhere else in<br />
Kenya, Vipingo Ridge is a place of unique allure.<br />
As soon as you enter the gates off the<br />
Mombasa Road, it is easy to see the attraction;<br />
a beautifully manicured championship course,<br />
impressive Clubhouse, tennis courts, multiple<br />
swimming pools, horse stables, sports bar, airconditioned<br />
gym -there is little that Vipingo<br />
Ridge doesn’t offer. As a result, this is a secure<br />
and relaxed hub of activity where people come<br />
together to live, laugh and play in the company of<br />
friends.<br />
With golf at the heart of this luxury<br />
development, great care has been taken in<br />
building the 18-hole course designed by one of the<br />
world’s most imaginative golf course architects,<br />
David Jones. After officially opening in 2009, it<br />
was soon to win the first of multiple awards and<br />
became Africa’s only PGA-accredited course. Up<br />
high on the ridge, a game on the Baobab Course<br />
is cooler than you might think. Combined with<br />
a meandering system of lakes and streams, the<br />
swirling breeze may be refreshing but it also adds to<br />
the challenge of the game.<br />
Travelling back down the escarpment to the<br />
water’s edge, you will find Vipingo Ridge’s Beach<br />
Club. Launched in 2016, it soon became a familyfavourite<br />
along this piece of coastline due to its<br />
rare privacy and unspoilt nature -untouched by<br />
tourism and development and therefore brimming<br />
with nostalgia for a simpler time. Here, mouthwatering<br />
plates of fresh seafood are paraded across<br />
silvery sands and served up to happy punters<br />
during lazy lunches or evenings under the stars.<br />
With various activities including snorkelling, boules<br />
and beach volleyball, there is plenty on offer to<br />
entertain guests of all ages. Get adventurous by<br />
exploring the rock pools teeming with sea-life or<br />
simply lie back on one of the makuti-shaded swing<br />
seats and settle into the unhurried rhythm of<br />
these Swahili shores.<br />
With over 300 residents and homeowners, the<br />
growing community among an incredible setting<br />
makes this one of Kenya’s most sought-after<br />
addresses and now that the grounds have reached<br />
full maturity, the flamboyant trees are in bloom<br />
and an abundance of wildlife has returned to the<br />
area, Vipingo Ridge beckons people from across<br />
the region to sample a life better lived behind<br />
their walls. Until the end of the year, a special<br />
weekend package is the perfect opportunity to<br />
experience this glamourous enclave and play<br />
Kenya’s finest course in view of a sparkling sea. For<br />
just KES 14,500 per person sharing or 19,500<br />
single occupancy, play 9 holes on the Friday<br />
night and join the signature Club Night supper,<br />
stay in a luxury villa overnight and enjoy a hearty<br />
breakfast before taking on the full 18 holes on<br />
the Saturday. Costs include all green fees, dinner<br />
and bitings, 5-star accommodation and breakfast.<br />
The 2, 3 & 4-bedroom villas on the footprints of<br />
the golf course await to spoil you with unrivalled<br />
comfort, an Indian Ocean seascape and some<br />
with rooftop plunge pools too. Book your stay by<br />
quoting “NOMAD10” and enjoy 10% off your<br />
accommodation during September 2019.<br />
Amid the spoils of the Kenyan coast, each<br />
day spent here will be yours to craft and enjoy.<br />
Whether you want to take on the challenge of the<br />
PGA Baobab Course or set sail on a Swahili dhow,<br />
indulge in fine dining or a game of tennis with the<br />
kids, you are invited to come for a day and stay for<br />
a lifetime.<br />
For more information, please visit www.<br />
vipingoridge.com, For bookings, please contact<br />
reservations@vipingoridge.com.<br />
@vipingo.ridge<br />
@vipingoridge
Take your place among this secure gated community<br />
and live, laugh and play in the company of friends.<br />
COME FOR A DAY. STAY FOR A LIFETIME.<br />
VIPINGORIDGE.COM
CITY<br />
HOTELS<br />
We turn our focus to Nairobi in this issue, listing some of our<br />
favourite spots around the city; from those with a rich history<br />
that have been around since the early 1900s to business<br />
hotels, and more
CITY HOTELS<br />
NOMAD MAGAZINE 2019 23
CITY HOTELS<br />
HISTORIC<br />
FAIRMONT THE NORFOLK<br />
If you’re looking for a place with history,<br />
then The Norfolk, as it started out in 1904,<br />
is it. Sitting on the Lord Delamere Terrace,<br />
one can still imagine what it must have been<br />
like for a guest in the early days, drinking a<br />
beer overlooking green wilderness that has<br />
inevitably given way to the city spread.The<br />
then Jewish-owned hotel went through huge<br />
upheaval in 1980. These days, it’s a rare,<br />
high-class idyll in a quieter part of the centre,<br />
and hosts two excellent restaurants. Location:<br />
Harry Thuku Rd. www.fairmont.com<br />
SAROVA STANLEY<br />
It launched into Kenyan history in 1902 by<br />
becoming the first luxury hotel in Nairobi<br />
and the gracious host to prominent world<br />
leaders and celebrities. Sarova Stanley<br />
retains much of its historical charm while<br />
offering all the luxuries and amenities of a<br />
five-star hotel. Towering high up on the 8th<br />
floor is the charismatic and chic 1902 Club<br />
Lounge. With it comes a promise of the<br />
very best personalized business solutions;<br />
exclusive boardroom access, specialized<br />
concierge services, whole day refreshments<br />
and city sundowners to wind down your day.<br />
Location: CBD. www.sarovahotels.com<br />
FAIRMONT THE NORFOLK<br />
NAIROBI SERENA HOTEL<br />
A celebration of sophistication and a rich<br />
fusion of Pan-African design influences from<br />
Ethiopia, the Maghreb, West Africa and<br />
East Africa - it merges business and leisure,<br />
art and gastronomy and five-star style and<br />
service. The 199 guestrooms and suites have<br />
been newly remodelled and appointed with<br />
the sought-after extravagances. Established<br />
in 1975, it stands on the land that carried<br />
the current National Museum in 1922. The<br />
hotel is a living embodiment of its locale and<br />
has played a role in a number of historic<br />
moments in Kenya over the years. Location:<br />
CBD outskirts www.serenahotels.com<br />
SAROVA STANLEY<br />
24 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE
CITY HOTELS<br />
AMBASSADEUR HOTEL<br />
This 85 room landmark hotel which currently<br />
has modern art and design opened its doors<br />
in 1961, quickly becoming popular as an<br />
important hub in East African politics. It<br />
played host to East African presidents, senior<br />
government officials and civil servants as well<br />
as Elite Africans in various conferences and<br />
meetings of state. It is said that Kenya’s first<br />
president, the late Mzee Jomo Kenyatta, was<br />
a regular guest. Location: at the heart of the<br />
CBD, along Tom Mboya Street and opposite<br />
Kenya National Archives.<br />
www.hotelambassadeurkenya.com<br />
HILTON NAIROBI<br />
HILTON NAIROBI<br />
In 1969 when Hilton Nairobi was officially<br />
opened, it stood out as the pinnacle of<br />
international style and class. Owned by<br />
the Hilton family, the brand has a worldrenowned<br />
history. Today it has a good<br />
blend of old and new decor. Whether you<br />
are seeking an indoor or outdoor dining<br />
experience, their three restaurants, two<br />
distinct bars and charming Hollywoodthemed<br />
café offer innovative cuisine and<br />
friendly service. Tour the five continents<br />
with weekly themed buffets at Travellers<br />
restaurant, there’s the British-themed Jockey<br />
Pub, and more. Location: Mama Ngina St.<br />
www.hilton.com<br />
FAIRVIEW HOTEL<br />
The 127-room Fairview Hotel’s decor is<br />
typical of Georgian colonial style. The<br />
original hotel was built with a countryside<br />
atmosphere in mind. Having been built<br />
earlier, in 1946, a family bought and<br />
successfully ran it for three generations<br />
spanning almost 70 years, until only recently.<br />
Over the years, renovations have been done,<br />
careful to retain the country feel in what has<br />
now become a bustling urban center. Expect<br />
neatly manicured and well kept tropical<br />
gardens, four restaurants, a swimming pool,<br />
sundowner bar with pianist, and more.<br />
Location: Bishop Rd. www.clhg.com<br />
NAIROBI SERENA HOTEL<br />
NOMAD MAGAZINE 2019 25
CITY HOTELS<br />
APARTMENTS<br />
KINGFISHER NEST<br />
Named after the home of the striking<br />
kingfisher birds, the two-bedroom serviced<br />
apartments here are spacious and<br />
comfortable, and come with a fully functional<br />
kitchen, two bathrooms and a large balcony.<br />
The apartments have a rooftop heated pool<br />
and gym, where you can work out or go for<br />
a relaxing dip while taking in the Nairobi<br />
skyline. Indulge in Italian and Indian cuisine<br />
at Feaston, the restaurant on the first floor.<br />
Meals can however also be provided at<br />
the comfort of your apartment. Location:<br />
Opposite the former Nakumatt Ukay,<br />
Westlands. www.kingfishernest.com<br />
GEMSUITES RIVERSIDE<br />
The property consists of one and two<br />
bedroom apartments, and presidential suites.<br />
Each is designed with large panel windows,<br />
spacious wardrobes, a living and dining<br />
area as well as a fully equipped open plan<br />
kitchen with modern facilities. If you’re not<br />
keen to cook, however, head up to the 11th<br />
floor for some continental cuisine at the main<br />
restaurant, Argenti, which means “silver” in<br />
Italian. There is even a gym with a fitness<br />
instructor, sauna and steam room, as well as<br />
a world class spa. Location: Riverside Lane.<br />
www.gemsuites.com<br />
KINGFISHER NEST<br />
PALACINA RESIDENCE & SUITES<br />
The beautifully-furnished one, two and<br />
three-bedroom suites which all have very<br />
well-equipped kitchens come with all the<br />
conveniences of a hotel – the Moonflower<br />
restaurant on site, a lobby with sofas to sink<br />
into, and daily breakfast. There are also<br />
double bedrooms available, the newer ones,<br />
at a higher price, in The Residence North.<br />
Throughout the hotel is the Palacina touch,<br />
and the interior design arm is situated in the<br />
shop just next door. There is a long indoor<br />
pool and gym on site. Location: off Dennis<br />
Pritt Rd, Kilimani. www.palacina.com<br />
PALACINA<br />
26 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE
CITY HOTELS<br />
SERENE<br />
KAREN BLIXEN GARDEN<br />
COTTAGES<br />
The cottages have been designed after<br />
the historic Swedo House which was<br />
originally built as a hunting lodge in 1906.<br />
They give a sense of relieving history in<br />
elegant style, with high beam ceilings with<br />
fireplaces, and wood and mazeras stone<br />
floors complimenting modern bathrooms. All<br />
cottages have a verandah for relaxing while<br />
enjoying the birds, butterflies and flowers of<br />
the garden. They even have feeders to attract<br />
a wide variety of birds. A private swimming<br />
pool and private garden bar are available<br />
for a relaxing afternoon. Location: Karen Rd,<br />
Karen. www.karenblixencoffeegarden.com<br />
EMAKOKO<br />
NAIROBI TENTED CAMP<br />
This Porini-branded camp is an intimate<br />
property in a shaded part of the national<br />
park, and has just nine tents and a minimal<br />
footprint. All are set on a wooded rise above<br />
the main part of the camp. The communal<br />
area is a lovely, old-style area with large<br />
sofas and leather armchairs, again all<br />
under canvas. By staying here, guests<br />
access the wealth of Africa knowledge of<br />
the Gamewatchers Safari family, started by<br />
safari old-timer Jake Grieves-Cooke who has<br />
decades of experience in Kenya’s tourism<br />
sector. Location: within NNP, Langata.<br />
www.nairobitentedcamp.com<br />
EMAKOKO<br />
This 10-room classy property has hosted all<br />
manner of celebs, including Madonna. It<br />
is the home of Emma and Anthony Childs<br />
who have created a luxurious bush idyll, a<br />
true escape whether en route to safari, or<br />
just looking for an escape from the city for<br />
a night or two. The bedrooms, all of which<br />
overlook the park, are huge and designed<br />
with a modern, contemporary feel. Each has<br />
a fireplace for chilly nights, and guests can<br />
feast on the views from their own wooden<br />
decks. Within NNP, Langata.<br />
www.emakoko.com<br />
NAIROBI TENTED CAMP<br />
NOMAD MAGAZINE 2019 27
CITY HOTELS<br />
HOTELS IN A MALL<br />
TRIBE HOTEL<br />
The hotel is softly lit with warm colours, and<br />
boasts a good steakhouse called Jiko. The<br />
standard rooms are spacious – some with a<br />
bath, others are shower only – and adorned<br />
with colourful artworks and tribal artefacts.<br />
The tribal theme plays out across the hotel,<br />
which has some 900 pieces from around<br />
the continent. There’s a library with 3,000<br />
books, a stone table on a raised deck in the<br />
pool should the idea of dining with water<br />
lapping around your feet appeal, and Kaya<br />
spa. Location: Village Market.<br />
www.tribe-hotel.com<br />
TRADEMARK HOTEL<br />
With 215-rooms, this elegant and urban<br />
business hotel is inspired by the cultural and<br />
creative renaissance in Nairobi, reflecting<br />
the city’s industrious and innovative nature<br />
in its design. Each sound proof room offers<br />
a workstation, black-out curtains and various<br />
amenities. There is a clubhouse with striking<br />
views of the area on the topmost floor.<br />
Harvest, the hotel’s open grill brasserie,<br />
has excellent cuts of meat and focuses on<br />
farm fresh ingredients carefully paired with<br />
exquisite wines from their walk-in wine<br />
room, for the perfect dining out experience.<br />
Location: Village Market.<br />
www.trademark-hotel.com<br />
TRIBE HOTEL<br />
CITY LODGE HOTEL<br />
AT TWO RIVERS<br />
Opened by South African hospitality group<br />
City Lodge, it has 171 beautifully designed<br />
sound-proof rooms that strike a good<br />
balance between comfort and style. Rooms<br />
range from standard, presidential and those<br />
adapted for guests with physical disabilities.<br />
While the bathrooms feature showers,<br />
selected rooms offer baths. Guests can enjoy<br />
their meals at the cafe for breakfast, lunch<br />
and a light dinner, as well as a sundowner<br />
bar service. The hotel also has a swimming<br />
pool, boardrooms and a well equipped<br />
fitness center. Location: Two Rivers Mall.<br />
www.clhg.com<br />
TRADEMARK<br />
CITY LODGE<br />
28 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE
CITY HOTELS<br />
BUDGET<br />
WILDEBEEST ECO CAMP<br />
This well-run hotel is unexpected given its<br />
location in the Langata suburb encircling<br />
a small marsh-bordered lake. It caters<br />
predominantly to groups and younger<br />
travellers, but has attractive whitewashed<br />
rooms as well as glamping options in the<br />
deluxe safari tent, and a range of more<br />
budget options right down to a two-man<br />
tent and dorm rooms. Meals are taken on<br />
the large deck overlooking the swimming<br />
pool, and it’s an enticing spot for kids given<br />
the playground and mini zipline. Location:<br />
Mokoyeti Rd West, Langata.<br />
www.wildebeestecocamp.com<br />
KENYA COMFORT HOTEL<br />
This is a two-star hotel with 91 rooms<br />
located at the junction of Muindi Mbingu<br />
and Monrovia Streets, overlooking the<br />
lovely Jeevanjee Gardens. The hotel offers<br />
en-suite compact budget, standard and<br />
superior rooms. At the restaurant, all meals<br />
are prepared from fresh ingredients and the<br />
menu largely features Kenyan cuisine. The<br />
group also has three-star suites, in Kilimani,<br />
just around State House. Enjoy an aerial<br />
view of Nairobi from the rooftop sun lounge<br />
or relax at the steam and sauna rooms.<br />
Personalized packages for conferences and<br />
more are available. Location: CBD.<br />
www.kenyacomfort.com<br />
MANYATTA BACKPACKERS<br />
The house can host up to 30 people. Rooms<br />
here range from single and double to six and<br />
eight person dorms, and these have shared<br />
washrooms. There is a communal living room<br />
and dining area, great for mingling with<br />
fellow backpackers. The outdoor restaurant<br />
serves freshly prepared food with an open<br />
fireplace for extra warmth on those cold<br />
Nairobi spells, best enjoyed with a drink<br />
from the bar. The staff is very friendly and the<br />
house is located in the serene neighbourhood<br />
of Kilimani, just about 2km from the CBD.<br />
www.manyattabackpackers.com<br />
WILDEBEEST ECO CAMP<br />
NOMAD MAGAZINE 2019 29
CITY HOTELS<br />
DECOR<br />
AFRICAN HERITAGE HOUSE<br />
An architectural gem reminiscent of Timbuktustyle<br />
mud buildings, the house is crammed<br />
with rare art pieces collected from all over<br />
the continent by Alan Donovan, who built it<br />
following the demise of the African Heritage<br />
gallery in town. Each of the four bedrooms<br />
is themed with its own eclectic style, from the<br />
beds with the trinket holders on the carved<br />
bed-posts to the rock-pool like bathroom. It’s<br />
also a fascinating place to simply visit for<br />
a tour of the weird and wonderful African<br />
art. Book ahead. Location: Mombasa Rd,<br />
Mlolongo www.africanheritagehouse.info<br />
THE KING POST<br />
This is a Swahili village smack in the middle<br />
of Nairobi. It features a unique architectural<br />
synthesis as interesting as the influences<br />
on the Swahili culture itself, with Omani,<br />
Portuguese, Indian, African and British flair.<br />
Right from the wooden intricately carved gate<br />
with large brass studs, narrow alleyways<br />
lead you to the tranquility of your apartment,<br />
and you might as well be in Zanzibar.<br />
Apartments range from studios to three<br />
bedrooms. A gym, restaurant, hair salon<br />
and fashion boutique are also within the<br />
premises. Location: Rhapta Rd, Westlands.<br />
www.gablesgroup.co.ke<br />
AFRICAN HERITAGE HOUSE<br />
DUSITD2 NAIROBI<br />
Here, style, entertainment and art converge.<br />
The decor is contemporary, colourful and<br />
chic with a refreshing sense of playfulness<br />
and exciting installations for art lovers.<br />
Offering world class cuisine from its array<br />
of bars and restaurants, stylish and spacious<br />
guest rooms, the award winning Devarana<br />
Spa and a striking red swimming pool,<br />
dusitD2 is the perfect urban retreat for both<br />
work and play. After closing down following<br />
the widely-covered attacks last year, the<br />
hotel reopens with a special accommodation<br />
package offering 20% off the Dusit Best<br />
Available Rate. Location: 14 Riverside Drive.<br />
www.d2nairobi.com<br />
DUSIT D2<br />
30 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE
CITY HOTELS<br />
AIRPORT<br />
FOUR POINTS BY SHERATON<br />
NAIROBI AIRPORT<br />
There is a distinct vertical garden which starts<br />
from the ground floor and winds all the way<br />
up to the hotel’s fifth floor. In any of the 172<br />
guestrooms, there is a sense of thought in the<br />
design. If it’s something a little more indulgent<br />
that you want, a bathtub overlooking the<br />
National Park is just the thing in the Executive<br />
Suite. The rooftop restaurant has a pool,<br />
overlooks the JKIA runway on one side and<br />
the park on the other, and has a colourful<br />
mural by graffiti artist Bankslave. Location:<br />
Tower Avenue JKIA. www.marriott.com<br />
FOUR POINTS BY SHERATON JKIA<br />
OLE SERENI<br />
With the stunning views of the park,<br />
especially when the animals come to the<br />
waterhole, this alone make Ole Sereni oneof-a-kind.<br />
Boasting modern technology and<br />
furnishings with an African-inspired décor,<br />
all rooms serve as a comfortable home<br />
away from home. Each of their four dining<br />
options capitalise on the unique location<br />
along the park, whether looking out over an<br />
infinity pool or from the fourth-floor at Eagle’s<br />
The Steakhouse. Here, you can enjoy fresh<br />
seafood flown in from Kenya’s coast or handpicked,<br />
aged steaks. Location: Mombasa Rd.<br />
ole-sereni.com<br />
HILTON GARDEN INN<br />
Start each morning with breakfast at the<br />
on-site restaurant or grab a quick snack at<br />
the 24-hour Pavilion Pantry. Unwind with<br />
evening room service. Spend the afternoon at<br />
the 20m heated rooftop infinity pool, or the<br />
24 hour well-equipped fitness center. Choose<br />
from any of the 175 air-conditioned guest<br />
rooms which includes complimentary WiFi, a<br />
well-lit work area, mini-refrigerator and flatscreen<br />
TV with freeview channels. Unwind<br />
with a drink in the relaxed lounge bar<br />
before enjoying a meal in the Garden Grille.<br />
Location: Mombasa Rd. www.hilton.com<br />
OLE SERENI<br />
NOMAD MAGAZINE 2019 31
CITY HOTELS<br />
BUSINESS<br />
VILLA ROSA KEMPINSKI<br />
Offering the perfect fusion of European<br />
luxury and Kenyan hospitality, Villa Rosa<br />
Kempinski is a unique destination where<br />
guests can spend time relaxing or working.<br />
In addition to the 200 rooms and suites<br />
distributed throughout its ten floors, you will<br />
also find exquisite dining opportunities here.<br />
Their dining selection includes Cafe Villa<br />
Rosa, K Lounge which is the lobby lounge,<br />
Balcony Bar, Chinese Restaurant 88, Italian<br />
Restaurant LUCCA and a Levant -style lounge<br />
and restaurant called Tambourin. The hotel<br />
also has a grand ballroom and Kempinski<br />
The Spa. Location: Chiromo Rd.<br />
www.kempinski.com<br />
PARK INN BY RADISSON<br />
The 140 rooms here are designed for<br />
comfort, with a fantastic range of amenities<br />
to enhance your stay. Enjoy all-day dining at<br />
the in-house restaurant and terrace bar, or<br />
relax with friends at the rooftop lounge bar<br />
which offers amazing views of the Westlands<br />
neighbourhood. Keep up with your workout<br />
routine in the gym, or cool off in the<br />
swimming pool. For business, host your next<br />
conference, seminar, boardroom meeting<br />
or event in their convenient, on-site meeting<br />
rooms. There are five of those, ranging from<br />
20 to 140 square meters. Location: Waiyaki<br />
Way. www.radissonhotels.com<br />
VILLA ROSA KEMPINSKI<br />
SANKARA AUTOGRAPH<br />
COLLECTION<br />
Spacious luxury rooms and suites at this<br />
luxury hotel are bathed in natural light. The<br />
contemporary interior design, array of art<br />
and in-room facilities provide the highest<br />
level of comfort. There are several restaurants<br />
such as Graze, a New York-style steakhouse<br />
offering aged beef, succulent seafood and<br />
indulgent desserts paired with some of the<br />
finest wines and whiskies. With more than<br />
250 square metres of multi-functional event<br />
facilities, they offer one of the most exclusive<br />
and convenient venues for corporate<br />
gatherings in Nairobi. Location: Woodvale<br />
Grove, Westlands. www.sankara.com.<br />
SANKARA<br />
32 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE
CITY HOTELS<br />
PRIDE INN RAPHTA<br />
This quiet three-star hotel was just recently<br />
refurbished. The cottage-style rooms are lined<br />
along a courtyard, and are shaded by trees<br />
and greenery making for a rather serene<br />
setting. The regular in-room facilities such as<br />
a work surface, DSTV, WiFi, fridge, a tea<br />
station and more are available. A swimming<br />
pool and restaurant with a vast multi-cuisine<br />
menu are available. For business travelers,<br />
the brand is renowned for its conferencing<br />
facilities, and they have another location<br />
in the neighbourhood just next to Graffins<br />
college. Location: Raphta Rd, Westlands.<br />
www.prideinn.co.ke<br />
IBIS STYLES<br />
THE HERON PORTICO<br />
Choose from a range of accommodation<br />
options such as the junior suites (which<br />
include a separate living area and a<br />
kitchenette) or standard and superior rooms.<br />
Great amenities and stunning interiors make<br />
this stylish and comfortable hotel an ideal<br />
choice. Choose from five fully equipped<br />
meeting and event halls for a wide array<br />
of gatherings like conferences, exhibitions,<br />
weddings and more. For foodies, there<br />
are four options for dining, and these offer<br />
patrons an array of international and local<br />
cuisine. Location: Jakaya Kikwete Rd.<br />
www.theheronportico.com<br />
IBIS STYLES<br />
This chic and stylish hotel is the ultimate<br />
stopover for mixing of business and leisure.<br />
Restaurants such as Kilele Nyama and<br />
Utamu are available and offer a range of<br />
cuisine (the former in particular has a must-try<br />
mixed-grill platter). If you are keen to grab<br />
some post-meeting drinks, Tusker Lite Sky Bar<br />
can get quite lively on the weekends, and is<br />
the perfect spot to watch the city light up at<br />
night. Accommodation ranges from double to<br />
twin, triple and family rooms. Five conference<br />
facilities are available. Location: Rhapta Rd,<br />
Westlands. www.ibisstylesnairobi.com<br />
PRIDE INN<br />
NOMAD MAGAZINE 2019 33
Photographer: Trevor Maingi<br />
@the_mentalyst<br />
34 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE
NAIROBI<br />
With a background in Software<br />
Engineering and Aerospace Engineering,<br />
I decided to chase my wildest dreams<br />
of becoming a photographer. I've never<br />
really enjoyed labels and prefer to let a<br />
photograph speak for itself. I do however<br />
like to think of myself as a travel and<br />
lifestyle photographer/filmmaker. When<br />
it comes to urbanscape photography, I<br />
enjoy playing with lines, patterns and<br />
shapes. For those looking to venture into<br />
this field, here are some tips to always<br />
keep in mind:<br />
GEAR: Think about accessories such as a<br />
tripod and filters which can really play a<br />
big role in getting the best shots. Always<br />
carry extra batteries as well.<br />
COMPOSITION: Draw the viewer's eye by<br />
using leading lines, contrast, patterns and<br />
texture to bring cities to life.<br />
LENSES: Experiment with various lenses. I<br />
always find myself shooting using a wide<br />
and a zoom lens. The former is amazing,<br />
but details in a shot tell a different story.<br />
MOTION: This is where the ND filter<br />
comes through. Use one during the day<br />
to be able to shoot long exposure photos.<br />
At night, you will have less light for long<br />
exposures.<br />
PEOPLE: Incorporate human elements into<br />
your composition. People can not only<br />
bring life to cities but also help convey<br />
scale.<br />
RESEARCH: Find out key locations or<br />
vantage points to shoot from. Also find out<br />
if you need permission or a license.<br />
TIME OF DAY: Light is key. Pay attention to<br />
how it brings life to a city. I enjoy shooting<br />
in the early morning light, and the streets<br />
are also usually less busy. Also use<br />
shadows and sunsets to your advantage.<br />
VANTAGE POINT: If there are tall buildings<br />
next to you, shoot from street level looking<br />
up. Try different angles.<br />
Manual focus: With urbanscape, you<br />
won't be dealing with fast moving objects<br />
so switch to manual focus for consistently<br />
sharp images.<br />
EXPERIMENT: Go to the same area a<br />
couple times and try various techniques.<br />
SAFETY: Every city has its fair share of the<br />
good and bad. Ask around for places to<br />
avoid and always be aware of what's<br />
happening around you.<br />
NOMAD MAGAZINE 2019 35
36 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE
NAIROBI<br />
NOMAD MAGAZINE 2019 37
A MARA SAFARI<br />
WITH MY DAUGHTER<br />
For families with kids, Simon Marsh lays out some fun activities to<br />
do on safari to ensure both parents and their children have fun.<br />
38 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE
ADVENTURE<br />
T<br />
he first time I took my<br />
daughter on safari as<br />
a three year old, she<br />
was transfixed with the<br />
experience and the<br />
creatures she had only<br />
ever heard about in stories.<br />
Fast forward to five years and innumerable<br />
excursions later, now the sighting of a<br />
big cat does no more than elicit a slight<br />
murmur of interest. A challenge to many<br />
seasoned parents on a bush excursion is<br />
how to make it an enjoyable, fulfilling and<br />
worthwhile experience for younger children<br />
whilst getting the most out of the experience<br />
themselves, all while avoiding arguments.<br />
Over the years, I have sought to instill a<br />
knowledge and passion for the country she<br />
knows as home, and in particular its flora<br />
and fauna. Children learn through interaction<br />
and remember through experiences so for<br />
me it was important to incorporate both<br />
while on safari, as well as hopefully getting<br />
a few epic pictures for the family album.<br />
The Mara never disappoints, and despite<br />
the heavy rains, this trip<br />
was no exception. In the<br />
quieter times, we were<br />
able to test each other’s<br />
knowledge and that of<br />
our Masai guide John<br />
by setting each other<br />
quizzes to test our bush<br />
knowledge. A pencil<br />
and notebook are cheap<br />
tools to occupy young<br />
minds, and they can also<br />
get to draw and colour<br />
what they see.<br />
A small inexpensive<br />
camera is another great<br />
investment, although it<br />
inevitably means a lot<br />
of time subsequently<br />
spent deleting blurry<br />
selfies. The first time<br />
she was able to enter<br />
the school wildlife<br />
photography competition with her own<br />
pictures led to a sustained interest in all<br />
things four-legged which gives hope that<br />
a future “photographer of the year” may<br />
currently be undergoing the early stages of<br />
apprenticeship.<br />
Back at camp, the guides and staff<br />
had prepared a range of fun activities. An<br />
increasingly competitive set of trials ensued<br />
between the staff, the determined eight year<br />
old and her talent-deficient father. These<br />
included the making of a bow and arrow<br />
followed by the multiple perforation of the<br />
cardboard-box derived target.<br />
We also took a<br />
mould of a big cat’s<br />
footprint. Much of<br />
the fun was in the<br />
scrambling around<br />
to find a suitable<br />
print, then being<br />
patient enough for<br />
it to set.<br />
Next up was lighting fires the traditional<br />
Maasai way, by rapidly rubbing<br />
‘sandpaper wood’ against another soft<br />
wooden base. Enough friction is created<br />
resulting in light embers which are then<br />
transferred to some very dry elephant dung,<br />
and this is carefully nurtured to create<br />
flames. Not nearly as easy as it looks, it<br />
transpired, when it was our turn.<br />
We also took a mould of a big cat’s<br />
footprint. Much of the fun was in the<br />
scrambling around to find a suitable print,<br />
then being patient enough for it to set. For<br />
my daughter, this came in handy while<br />
relating the experiences of the safari to her<br />
school friends in the show-and-tell section.<br />
The wonders of the bush can easily be<br />
explored on foot, and little experiences<br />
here and there such as luring a wolf-spider<br />
from its hole with a blade of grass or<br />
trying to determine which animal frequents<br />
a particular burrow based on what<br />
droppings or tracks are nearby, are always<br />
exciting. There is also the cheeky insertion<br />
of a finger into wet buffalo dung then<br />
pretending to taste it that<br />
always elicits giggles and<br />
mirthful faces of disgust.<br />
A family safari is<br />
however just as much<br />
about spending quality<br />
time together away<br />
from the distractions<br />
of everyday life as it is<br />
about the game viewing.<br />
I found her opening up<br />
about the highs and lows<br />
of school life, what was<br />
on her mind and being<br />
able to talk about hopes,<br />
dreams and aspirations<br />
in a way that was rarely<br />
possible around hectic<br />
work, school and social<br />
schedules. To me that's<br />
the real beauty of the<br />
experience, time together<br />
reminiscent of a bygone<br />
era and making memories that we will both<br />
remember.<br />
We stayed at Basecamp Leopard Hill,<br />
the newest addition to their portfolio in<br />
the Naibosho conservancy. One of the<br />
innovations in their well-outfitted tents is<br />
the ability to open a portion of the roof<br />
at the press of a button which will appeal<br />
to stargazers, who need not even get out<br />
of bed. Each room also has its own deck<br />
and firepit from where parents can enjoy<br />
romantic meals while the children sleep<br />
peacefully inside.<br />
NOMAD MAGAZINE 2019 39
A PIKI PIKI RIDE THROUGH<br />
SOUTH NYANZA<br />
From a bustling nightlife in Kisii to a fishing village in Homa Bay,<br />
Martyn Pollock tears across counties on the wheels of a Honda Ace<br />
before hopping aboard a speedboat to the little-known Ngodhe Rao<br />
Island, and back.<br />
40 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE
ROAD TRIP<br />
Neon lights and flat screen<br />
TVs illuminate the clubs<br />
on Kisii’s second street.<br />
Couples mostly, sit<br />
packed together into small<br />
booths eating ugali and<br />
choma late into the night<br />
while Afro-Dance-Pop blares out of huge<br />
speakers several decibels too loud. Despite<br />
the nightlife on offer, I find myself on some<br />
backstreet dive. An unmarked door takes<br />
me and a friend four or five storeys up to<br />
what reminds me of a Scottish working-man’s<br />
social club; faded smoke-stained furniture<br />
and used sodden beer mats. Patrons line the<br />
bar knocking back high-octane Guinness<br />
and nodding to the rhythm. The band plays<br />
Kisii traditional music with a Latin beat, it’s<br />
a sound like I’ve never heard before and the<br />
place is jumping.<br />
Dancing is an all-male sport with plenty<br />
of awkward eye contact. In wellie boots and<br />
a ski jacket, our de facto leader controls the<br />
pack; he drops, and we follow time and time<br />
again. The band sweating into their mics<br />
seem to constantly lift the<br />
tempo and it’s gone half past<br />
three by the time we decide<br />
to make the journey home.<br />
Kisii has some surprisingly<br />
active nightlife. It’s the kind of<br />
surprise night you don’t forget<br />
and the next morning I’m<br />
feeling worse for wear. But<br />
I’ve got a free weekend, time<br />
to kill and I want to make the<br />
most of what South Nyanza<br />
has to offer.<br />
The Honda Ace is to the<br />
piki piki world what the Prado<br />
is to the world of luxury 4x4s:<br />
a premium machine with a<br />
premium price tag. They are<br />
pretty much all the same bike,<br />
but this has a feel of quality<br />
and workmanship that means<br />
even the older bikes still<br />
look and feel new. A chorus of ‘muzungu,<br />
muzungu’ follows as I jockey through Kisii<br />
town traffic. Stopping, starting, weaving<br />
the ride is exciting if a bit terrifying. After a<br />
couple of near misses, I’m free of the urban<br />
chaos and on the open road. Ahead of me<br />
lies pristine Chinese tarmac meandering its<br />
way westwards down, down, and further<br />
down towards Lake Victoria.<br />
Kisii town, and Kisii County for that<br />
matter, do not get large numbers of foreign<br />
visitors. A small Indian community of<br />
business owners and less than a handful of<br />
expats (of which I am one) and that’s the<br />
whole county. A shame really as the rolling<br />
hills of South Nyanza are truly spectacular.<br />
Banana, coffee, tea, avocado and of course<br />
maize cover every inch of land. If you drop<br />
seeds here, they will grow. And for this<br />
reason, it is the most populous county in<br />
Kenya. It’s a sort of urban-rural sprawl where<br />
families are densely packed into tiny parcels<br />
of subsistence farm land. The villages are<br />
idyllic. Immaculate homesteads with wellbuilt<br />
houses, only the mabati sheet roofs and<br />
mobile phones serve as reminders that you<br />
are indeed in 2019.<br />
I take advantage of the new road and<br />
gun the bike through its 4-speed box all the<br />
way to a brisk 95Kph (downhill). The open<br />
road is a dream, but I continually remind<br />
myself that dangers lurk, and I try to remain<br />
focussed. Soon I’m in Homa Bay county<br />
and the dramatic landscape of the lakeside<br />
mountains and islands unfold in front of me.<br />
I try not to get too lost in the moment for fear<br />
of speed bumps, potholes and of course<br />
other road users.<br />
A boy of around nine years holds his<br />
hand out at the side of the road. As I come<br />
to a stop, he just stares at me wondering if<br />
his eyes are telling the truth. ‘Wathi’, the only<br />
word I know in Luo, which means ‘let’s go’,<br />
and we are on our way. We ride in silence<br />
for a couple of miles until he says ‘hapa’ and<br />
as I come to a stop he runs off into the bush<br />
to tell everyone he meets about his free ride,<br />
questioning his own story with each iteration.<br />
I’ve decided to camp at Wayando<br />
Beach Eco Resort and I pitch my tent with<br />
a beautiful view of the lake. It’s a modest<br />
place in an excellent setting, serving up<br />
succulent fresh fish dishes at bargain prices.<br />
A great place to stay if you are travelling<br />
on a budget. After nearly three hours in<br />
the saddle and darkness setting in, I settle<br />
down for a few beers in front of an open<br />
fire watching the shifting shadows as the sun<br />
light turns to moonlight over this great body<br />
of water.<br />
The next morning, I charter a fishing<br />
boat to Ngodhe Rao Island with the only<br />
other guest in the resort. Under a patchwork<br />
sail we cruise between the two islands<br />
at great speed. Our fishermen cum tour<br />
operators are eager to please. There’s<br />
Walter, the confident outgoing one with a<br />
steady stream of interesting facts, Bernard,<br />
the intern who is doing almost all the work<br />
and Dickenson who sits at the front almost<br />
in silence. It’s hard to work out who is the<br />
boss, but my money is on Dickenson. The<br />
waves lap at the boat as the morning sun<br />
begins to show its strength on my Celtic<br />
skin. The Sound is awash with boats, but<br />
hardly an engine can be heard as almost<br />
every boat is as the traditional dhow sailing<br />
design. Ngodhe Rao Island reminds me<br />
of a mythical pirate island in some classic<br />
eighteenth-century novel. Two distinct rocky<br />
peaks that lead down steep slopes to the<br />
lake. Coves and inlets patrolled by tropical<br />
birds and countless monitor lizards. But<br />
far from deserted this island has a vibrant<br />
community.<br />
We land at a small fishing village on the<br />
biggest stretch of beach. It<br />
is the closest thing to a town<br />
on the island. There are<br />
no cars and no bikes, and<br />
the pace of life is probably<br />
little changed in decades.<br />
Kids play in the water while<br />
adults fish with varying<br />
methods; line and net with<br />
the latter being a communal<br />
affair. Instantly I’m roped into<br />
hauling in the day’s catch.<br />
No mean feat as huge nets<br />
are pulled by opposing<br />
parties from hundreds of<br />
meters offshore. After about<br />
40 mins of rhythmic heaving,<br />
I’m exhausted, but the net<br />
is on shore and the catch<br />
distributed evenly among<br />
the two parties. As I watch,<br />
a man is weaving a net on<br />
a huge wooden loom. “Which country?”<br />
he asks. “UK,” I reply. “How do you like<br />
Trump? I like Trump, he is a great leader,”<br />
he says. I nod, not wanting to correct him.<br />
Geopolitics aside and we are back on the<br />
boat to finish the circumnavigation of this<br />
idyllic isle and back to our campsite.<br />
I’ve got a three-hour blast ahead of me<br />
and I want to get back before nightfall. For<br />
all its pluses, the Honda Ace doesn’t have<br />
a fuel gauge which makes me nervous<br />
about coming unstuck. The journey back is<br />
smoother and faster. I’m used to the bike<br />
now and feel much more confident on the<br />
road. I turn into Suneka, the first town back<br />
in Gusii lands and the chorus of “muzungu”<br />
from every man, child and mzee begins<br />
again. I’m home.<br />
NOMAD MAGAZINE 2019 41
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42 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE<br />
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DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE<br />
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NOMAD MAGAZINE 2019 43
SANDSTORM: WHAT I PACK<br />
Dorothy Tote bag from<br />
Endo² X Sandstorm<br />
collection<br />
Ksh6,900<br />
Patti Endo is a Kenyan-Japanese artist who, together with<br />
her sister Yvonne, just collaborated with Sandstorm on the<br />
Endo² X Sandstorm line of bags featuring Patti's signature<br />
art. When running around Nairobi, here’s what you’re likely<br />
to find in her tote bag.<br />
ZARA LEATHER JACKET - You can never go wrong with a leather jacket;<br />
it's a perfect statement piece that goes with absolutely everything I wear,<br />
and also keeps me warm in this unpredictable Nairobi weather.<br />
ROGER & GALLET PERFUME “THÉ FANTAISIE”- One of my favourite<br />
everyday scents. I just throw it in my bag and spruce up as needed<br />
wherever I go.<br />
LUSH HANDY GURUGU HAND CREAM - Moisturised skin is everything<br />
to me, especially because I have tattoos. This all-natural cream keeps my<br />
skin soft and helps keep my tattoos looking vibrant.<br />
RAY-BAN ROUND METAL SUNGLASSES - Essential for my day to day...you<br />
can never go wrong with a pair of Ray Bans!<br />
MOSCHINO MAKEUP BAG - I never leave the house without it! It carries<br />
all my little bits and bobs which mainly includes my make up items for a<br />
touch up here and there.<br />
FENTY LIP PAINT IN “UNCENSORED” - Red Lipstick is my go-to! I'm<br />
always rocking it no matter what. My favourites are either Fenty Lip Paint<br />
in “Uncensored” or Mac “Ruby Woo”.<br />
CARMEX CHERRY LIP BALM - hands down my favourite lip balm ever.<br />
PHONE AND CHARGER- Just can’t live without them. I’m always chatting<br />
with family and friends, and also like to take pictures of adorable<br />
animals.<br />
44 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE
NOMAD MAGAZINE 2019 45
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