Eatdrink #79 September/October 2019

eatdrinkmagazine

The LOCAL food and drink magazine serving London, Stratford and Southwest Ontario since 2007

eatdrink: The Local Food Issue & Drink #79 Magazine | September/October 2019 September/October 2019 | 1

eatdrink

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine

A12 th

Celebrating Our

N N I V E R S A RY

I S S U E

Get Stuffed!

Fat Olive

in Dorchester

FEATURING

Road Trip Redux

12 Years of Exploring Our Region

12 Must-Try Craft Beers

Explore and Discover

Mindful Vegan Meals

Book Review & Recipes

Serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario since 2007

www.eatdrink.ca


2 | September/October 2019

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

THE BACON AND ALE TRAIL

IS A WELL ROUNDED MEAL

IF YOU COUNT BARLEY

AS A VEGETABLE

Bacon and ale are a combination made in heaven,

includes 5 tastes for just $30.

-

Stratford Tourism Alliance at 47 Downie Street.

visitstratford.ca


eatdrink


The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine

eatdrinkmagazine

@eatdrinkmag

eatdrinkmag

eatdrink.ca

Think Global. Read Local.

Publisher

Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca

Managing Editor Cecilia Buy – cbuy@eatdrink.ca

Food Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca

Copy Editor Kym Wolfe

Social Media Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca

Advertising Sales Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca

Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca

Stacey McDonald – stacey@eatdrink.ca

Terry-Lynn “TL” Sim – TL@eatdrink.ca

Finances

Ann Cormier – finance@eatdrink.ca

Graphics

Chris McDonell, Cecilia Buy

Writers

Jane Antoniak, Darin Cook,

Gary Killops, Bryan Lavery,

George Macke, Chris McDonell,

Tracy Turlin

Photographers Terry Manzo, Steve Grimes

Telephone & Fax 519-434-8349

Mailing Address 525 Huron Street, London ON N5Y 4J6

Website

City Media, Cecilia Buy

Social Media Mind Your Own Business

Printing

Sportswood Printing

OUR COVER

Fat Olive owners Dino

and Carla Dassie raise a

glass in celebration. The

Dorchester restaurant

just celebrated its first

anniversary in August

© 2019 Eatdrink Inc. and the writers.

All rights reserved.

Reproduction or duplication of any material published in Eatdrink

or on Eatdrink.ca is strictly prohibited without the written permission

of the Publisher. Eatdrink has a printed circulation of 20,000

issues published six times annually in each of two markets, for a total

of 240,000 copies in print. The views or opinions expressed in the

information, content and/or advertisements published in Eatdrink

or online are solely those of the author(s) and do not necessarily

represent those of the Publisher. The Publisher welcomes submissions

but accepts no responsibility for unsolicited material.

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Great

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Contents

Issue #79 | September/October 2019

Publisher’s Notes

Twelve Years Young

Milestones and Memories

By CHRIS McDONELL

6

8

Wine

A Celebration of Ontario Wines

Twelve That Are Sure to Please

By GARY KILLOPS

37

Food Writer at Large

Twelve Inspirations

Building Community Engagement

By BRYAN LAVERY

8

Restaurants

Get Stuffed!

Region-Specific Italian Cuisine

at Fat Olive, in Dorchester

By BRYAN LAVERY

14

Spotlight

New Hotspots

Four Noteworthy Additions

By THE EDITORS

18

Road Trips

Road Trip Redux

A Dozen Years of Discovery

and Celebration

Compiled by CHRIS McDONELL

20

Beer

Explore and Discover

Twelve Must-Try Craft Beers

By GEORGE MACKE

33

18

37

14

56

The BUZZ

Culinary Community Notes

New and Notable

41

Theatre

Which London Life?

This London Life, at the Grand

By JANE ANTONIAK

53

Books

Wine Crime

In Vino Duplicitas

By Peter Hellman

Review by DARIN COOK

56

Recipes

Mindful Vegan Meals

by Maria Koutsogiannis

Review & Recipe Selections by TRACY TURLIN

58

The Lighter Side

Let’s Taco ’Bout Picky Eaters

By DARIN COOK

62

58


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September/October 2019 | 5

JOIN US

For Our Famous All-You-Can-Eat

Thanksgiving Buffet

Sunday, October 13 11am – 2:30pm

$32.95

Call for reservations

519-430-6414

And ask about our RESERVE A BIRD

Take Out Turkey Dinner for the whole family!

/Blakes2ndFloor

¦


More to Explore!

6 | September/October 2019

Publisher’s Notes

Twelve Years Young

Milestones and Memories

By CHRIS McDONELL

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

A

dozen is a nice round number,

perfect for roses and eggs, but

not necessarily meaningful for a

magazine. Nonetheless, I’m proud

to celebrate this milestone with this issue

of Eatdrink. I asked some of our regular

contributors to focus on “twelve,” as you’ll

see in our beer and wine columns. Our Writer

at Large

Bryan Lavery,

whom I lean

on heavily in

shaping the

magazine,

gives us twelve

inspirations

in this issue.

That got me

thinking

about my own

taste

LONDON

The - Culinary Guide

The 2010-11 Culinary Guide

londontourism.ca

Restaurants

Specialty Shops

Farmers’ Markets

Food Festivals

2010 2011

inspirations, and what the future might hold.

Back in 2007, when I consulted with a few

friends and acquaintances about launching

this publication, I’m not sure we ever talked

about how the magazine might

grow over time. The primary

focus was getting off the ground.

There were too many hats to

wear, and not enough time to

get everything done without a

lot of late nights and weekends

in the office. I’m sorry to report

that not much has changed in

that regard, yet somehow the

magazine grew in its number of

pages and the scope in our story

subjects. Our distribution area

grew, and the number of copies

printed rose incrementally to

accommodate that. We were

busy, turning a small profit

most of the time (this is not a

charitable venture) and handing out all of our

print run to interested readers every issue.

CHATHAM-KENT • ELGIN • HALDIMAND • HURON • LONDON • MIDDLESEX • NORFOLK

OXFORD • PERTH • SARNIA-LAMBTON • STRATFORD • WINDSOR-ESSEX

Local Flavour

SOUTHWEST ONTARIO

CULINARY GUIDE

Restaurants • Specialty Shops & Services

Craft Beer & Local Wine • Farmers’ Markets

localflavour.ca

Coming October 2019

I don’t recall moments of genuine reflection

until our third anniversary issue, which I

would say snuck up on us. All of a sudden, it

struck me that we were not just surviving, we

were having some success.

Subsequent years brought further growth,

and we got the idea that we could take on an

additional project. Conversations with John

LONDON’S

Local Flavour

VOLUME 7

Restaurants • Specialty Shops & Services

Craft Beer & Wine • Farmers’ Markets

localflavour.ca

Winston and

Marty Rice

at Tourism

London led to

our production

of a local

culinary guide

that we called

Taste London.

The reception

for that publication

was

2018

gratifying, and a version of that guide became

an annual event for Eatdrink.

We took on another project, for Ontario’s

Ministry of Tourism, creating a culinary guide

EXPANDED

EDITION

VOLUME 8

for the newly formed “RTO1” ...

soon to be known as Ontario’s

Southwest. Incorporating nine

different tourism districts, the

challenges there were almost

back-breaking, but once again,

the response was satisfyingly

positive.

Over subsequent years, the

London guide became known

as London’s Local Flavour,

reflecting our ongoing interest

in celebrating and promoting

the growth of a regional

culinary identity. And it got a

little easier to put together.

In 2018, in response to

persistent enquiries, we opened

up our Local Flavour publication to include

“recommended neighbours.” This was a

NEW!

Recommended

Culinary

Neighbours


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

positive step for all concerned, and led directly

to our current project.

Local Flavour is now a “Southwest Ontario

Culinary Guide.” This expanded publication

will be our strongest yet, covering Southwest

Ontario, from Essex County in the west, Huron

and Perth County in the north, Haldimand

County in the east, and all points in between.

Among all of the changes that have happened

with both Eatdrink and Local Flavour, I would

argue that the most profound differences have

occurred online. Twelve years ago, we launched

our website simultaneously with the print

magazine. We soon added a Facebook page, and

then opened our Twitter account. As technology

advanced, we changed with the times, and this

year we saw over 50,000 unique visitors visit our

website, with slightly more than half of those

coming via their smartphones. Instagram has

arguably surpassed our other social media channels

in importance. Local Flavour has its own

dedicated website. Check out localflavour.ca to

see how we’re using that now.

What will the next 12 years bring us? I can’t

wait to find out.

Peace,

Boutique Bakery

Buttercream Cakes,

Cookies and

French Macarons

Wedding

Consultations

by Appointment

145 Wortley Road, London

Upstairs— above the former Village Harvest Bakery

bakeshopstudio.com

In print.

Online.

SINCE

2007

G

eatdrink Local Food & Drink Magazine

Fat Olive

in Dorchester

eatdrink

www.eatdrink.ca

|

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine

FEATURING

Road Trip Redux

12 Years of Exploring Our Region

12 Must-Try Craft Beers

Explore and Discover

Mindful Vegan Meals

Book Review & Recipes

September/October |

Celebrating Our

A N N I V E R S A RY

th

I S S UE

Pick up your free copy wherever

discerning readers are found, or

conveniently read the whole

issue on your computer, tablet

or smartphone.

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THE LOCAL FOOD & DRINK MAGAZINE

Get Connected!

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8 | September/October 2019

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Food Writer at Large

Twelve Inspirations

Building Community Engagement Through Food & Drink

After decades of working the

spectrum of restaurant and other

culinary businesses, I continue

to be inspired by dedicated indie

entrepreneurs who embrace the benefits of

building community engagement through

food and drink experiences. It is a privilege

to be able to work at something and with the

people you feel passionate about, while having

a platform to be helpful to others.

In no particular order, here are

twelve food-related subjects that

continue to inspire me.

1

I have been honoured to work

with many restaurateurs as

a friend, consultant or mentor

since I retired from the restaurant

business twelve years ago. The

new wave of restaurants that

are intentional in their purpose

make me proud. Restaurateurs

Brian Sua-an and Jerrah Revilles

(featured on our January 2019

cover) come to mind. They have

been recognized with a rare

2-star review in Where to Eat in Canada, for

their 12-seat tasting menu

restaurant that features

optional wine pairings.

2

Stratford’s Evolving

Gastro Scene: It

has been great to work

with Cathy Rehberg, of

Stratford Tourism, these

past 12 years. Stratford’s

built a solid reputation

as an innovational,

entrepreneurial culinary destination for

years. Stratford’s proprietary hold on gastroknowingness

never loosens, in large part due

to the Stratford Chefs School.

By BRYAN LAVERY

3

London Downtown Business

Association’s (LDBA) team have

successfully positioned the downtown area as

a premier dining destination, and continue to

highlight the diversity of our local restaurants.

Enthusiastic promoters of the downtown

food scene, they have helped nurture the

profile and profitability of downtown culinary

businesses (restaurants, pop-ups, farmers’

markets, specialty shops and

accommodators) by supporting

the ever-evolving culinary

community.

4

Tourism London was

initially instrumental in

helping to launch the Local

Flavour Culinary Guide in 2010.

In a city celebrated for farmers’

markets, food hubs, culinary

artisans, and coffee and craft

brewery culture, it’s evident

that food and drink innovators

abound. Working with a strong

community team, Melissa

De Luca of Tourism London

and Joanne Wolnik of Southwest Ontario

Tourism Corporation have been instrumental

in raising the profile of

these businesses and

are now developing the

experiential travel market

in London. Likewise,

Meredith Maywood has

been doing the same

work in Oxford County,

developing experiences to

great success.

Reverie’s Brian Sua-an, Jerrah

Revilles and daughter Saisha

Stratford Chefs School Annual Long Table Dinner

5

New London

Restaurants: We’ve

had many stellar restaurants open in the

last couple of years. Among them are Craft

Farmacy, Reverie, Grace, Pizzeria Madre, Los

Lobos, Hunter & Co, Ivy Ristorante, and The


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

Little Bird Café. Taverna 1331, Wolfe Pack

Company Bar, and Through Thick and Thin are

a few new hot spots that are expected to open

in London soon.

6

Culinary Educators: Fanshawe College’s

Hospitality Program and teaching

restaurant, The Chef’s Table, stimulates

innovation and diversity, provides collateral

employment,

and

contributes

to creating a

well-trained

culinary

workforce

that fosters a

strengthened

London Training Centre

culinary

identity in

London. The essence of the London Training

Centre (LTC) narrative is that it achieves the

whole seasonal cycle of our local bounty. The

LTC faculty are not only culinary educators,

but are also farmers, retailers, caterers, food

artisans, restaurateurs, funders, and local

food advocates.

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7

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

Local Food Initiatives: As a founding

member of several local food initiatives,

a proponent of Food Day Canada and of Feast

On, I am focused

on creating dining

experiences that

extend beyond what

is on the plate. Since

launching the Feast

On program in June

2014, the Ontario

Culinary Tourism

Alliance (OCTA)

has continued

growing, evolving,

and improving the

program, including

the creation of a

Growing Chefs! Ontario

certification system

to safeguard the character and reputation

of authentic foods. It is an assurance that

products possess certain qualities and

characteristics, due to terroir or geographical

origin. Restaurants such as Craft Farmacy,

Abruzzi, Garlic’s of London, Chef’s Table at

Fanshawe College, Windjammer Inn in Port

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eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

Stanley Eddington’s of Exeter, Hessenland

Inn and Winery in Zurich, Cowbell in Blyth,

and Woodstock’s SixThirtyNine are among the

province’s Feast On certified restaurants.

8

Global Cuisine: London has plenty of restaurants

serving globally-inspired cuisine.

T.G. Haile of TG’s Addis

Ababa Restaurant

T.G. Haile of Addis Ababa is a skillful chef at the

top of her game.

Her signature dishes

from the repertoire

of Ethiopian cookery

comprise permutations

of sweet, bitter,

sour, salty, hot, and

fragrant. Refined

flavour contrasts are

the hallmark of T.G.’s

cooking. I remain

an ardent and loyal

fan of the hospitable

Heidi and Bill

Vamvalis, who have

offered Greek cuisine

and halibut and chips at Mykonos restaurant

since 1985. Bhan Mudliar of The New Delhi Deli

at Covent Garden Market is another favourite.

100% Local — from Our Farmers to Your Table

Hormone & Drug-Free

Ontario Beef, Pork, Bison, Lamb & Chicken

THE VILLAGE

MEAT SHOP

LOCAL - NATURAL - QUALITY

Locally Sourced Ingredients

Authentic Italian Cuisine

Local Craft Beers

Regional & Organic Wines from Italy

Now Serving Sunday Brunch

11am–2pm

Take Out & Gift Certificates Available

Follow us on Facebook for

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Lunch Wednesday–Saturday

Dinner Tuesday–Sunday

2135 Dorchester Road, Dorchester

519-268-0001

fatolive.ca










Dining

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E X P E R I E N C E D S E R V I C E P R O F E S S I O N A L s

12 | September/October 2019

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

Other stand-outs include the Budapest, Lo

Nuestro, Mint Leaves, and Quynh Nhi.

9

Jill Wilcox is a dedicated culinary resource

— supportive, knowledgeable, and a

leader in promoting the local food community.

Wilcox is celebrating 20 years as a

culinary retailer at Jill’s Table, and

for nearly four decades has been a

food columnist for the London Free

Press. In the spirit of giving back

to the community, the Jill Wilcox

Foundation was established in 2012

to help women and children in

food-related initiatives.

10

Growing Chefs! Ontario is

a food education hub which

aims to be an iconic destination

for food exploration, by forging

long-term partnerships with food

literacy program providers, local

producers, artisans, and other communityminded

businesses, with an eye on sustainability

and zero-waste. The social enterprise business

model, in conjunction with the sponsorship

program, generates funds needed to fully

support the Food Education Projects, which

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11

Food Trucks are the new incubators for

culinary innovation. I’m talking about

the chef-driven, entrepreneurial,

indie food truck visionaries. The

food truck scene is growing in

London, and owner Dee Spencer

of The Donut Diva says, “We are

happy to have such a great group

of professional food truck owners

who work together and support

each other. One of our main

goals within our Association is to

celebrate each other’s successes

and be able to offer the city

of London an amazing food

truck experience.” Association

Jill Wilcox of Jill’s Table members include the originals —

Goodah, Bifana Boys, The Donut

Diva, Smokestacks, and Rosie’s Streetery, as

well as newer additions My Big Fat Food Truck,

Big Daddy Bacon, Grill’EM, Shelbys, Pierogi

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eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

12

Restaurant Ethics: If an inexpensive

meal in a restaurant can only be

achieved on the backs of workers toiling away

in the kitchen without proper remuneration,

you should be patronizing a restaurant that

charges patrons enough to sustain their

employees with a living wage. Good examples

of restaurants committed to their employee’s

well-being are Grace in downtown London,

the worker-owned Red Rabbit in Stratford,

and Emma’s Country Kitchen in Toronto.

Historically there has been a significant wage

inequality, and substantial occupational

segregation, by gender and ethnicity in the

restaurant business. Everyone needs and is

entitled to equal protection in the workplace.

More reasons to boycott certain chefs

and restaurants have surfaced, including

accusations of abuse, gender inequality and

sexual harassment. We need change. Now.

Trust...

Taste...

Quality...

BRYAN LAVERY, Eatdrink Food Editor and Writer

at Large, is also a partner in the culinary consulting

business, Lavery Culinary Group. Always on the lookout

for stories Eatdrink should be telling, he helps shape the

magazine both under his byline and behind the scenes.

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14 | September/October 2019

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Restaurants

Get Stuffed!

Region-Specific Italian Cuisine at Fat Olive, in Dorchester

By BRYAN LAVERY

The Italian table offers us a

veritable feast. No single

characteristic defines Italian

cuisine — it is an attitude

and an approach towards food.

Regional variations, the high quality

of ingredients, and a time-honoured

sense of tradition are its mainstays.

Still, Italian cuisine can be primarily

characterized by simplicity, with

many dishes having only a few focal

ingredients. Traditionally-inspired

Italian cooks rely on the quality of

their products combined with an

allegiance to seasonality rather than

more intricate preparations, albeit

with a few exceptions.

Dino and Carla Dassie opened Fat

Olive, an Italian-inspired family-

friendly restaurant, in a small plaza in Dorchester last

fall. Fat Olive is a paean to the food Dino’s family has

always cooked and eaten. Carla tells me that they considered

many locations before they chose Dorchester,

and more than fifty names for the restaurant before

they settled on Fat Olive.

Dino was born into an Italian family. One side

comes from Calabria, the southern region that forms

the “toe” of the Italian peninsula. The other side of

the family is from low-lying Veneto in northeast Italy,

which faces the Adriatic Sea. He learned to cook from

his mother Elena, and his aunts. At a young age he

knew he wanted to open an Italian restaurant. After

high school he attended Conestoga College, where he

obtained his diploma in Business Administration and

Marketing. After college Dino put his dream on hold

and began driving a truck, but continued hosting large

parties for family and friends. Family lunch with his

parents, Elena and Benito, was always a small feast

lasting nearly four hours.

Three years ago Dino and Carla attended Goodfella’s

Pizza School on Staten Island, New York, widely

considered to be one of the most comprehensive,

hands-on pizza schools. They were instructed on

Executive Chef Nolan Darling

Assistant Chef Adam Gartshore


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

September/October 2019 | 15

how to make wood-fired pizzas by pizza

champions. They were coached on the owning

and operating of a restaurant. Later chef/

instructor David Rosen was engaged as a

culinary consultant. Carla tells me, “Dino had

been preparing for this restaurant

from birth.”

The kitchen is Dino’s

sphere, and he and

Chef Nolan Darling

translate the

region-specific

Italian culinary

canon

with a blended

regional perspective.

It is an

Fat Olive owners Dino and Carla Dassie

interpretation of

the ever-elusive concept

of Italian culinary

authenticity that comprises

19 geographic regions, each of

which has many subsets of idiosyncratic aesthetics

and flavour profiles. The pared-down,

uncomplicated presentation at Fat Olive hits

the flavour mark, as each element of every

dish is combined deftly and with thought.

Chef Darling spent a decade cooking in different

kitchens, featuring different styles of

food, and using a wide variety of ingredients,

before landing at Fat Olive. His career began

when he was hired as a dishwasher in a downtown

London restaurant. He needed the job to

pay for tuition at the Architectural Technology

program at Fanshawe College. “After

a few months of washing plates

with baked-on cheese, an

abundance of cutlery,

silver ramekins full

of sauces and dips,

and sauté pans upon

sauté pans, I finally

was able to become a

line cook,” he states on

his blog mukngrub.com.

Fat Olive’s menu

offerings capture the essence

of Italian cookery. The cuisine is

intuitive, menu items iconic and prepared

with locally-sourced and quality Italianspecific

specialty ingredients, interpreted

with skill and an eye towards tradition. Like

many good Italian restaurants, consistency

and the quality of the menu offerings are the

hallmarks of the Fat Olive experience.

For Fat Olive’s rich tomato sauce, Dino

Front House Manager Sonia Williamson

and servers Sarah Vanbesien, Jade

Williamson, and Tia Tessier.

prefers using Mutti-brand tomatoes from

the Parma-based Italian company. They’re

grown in Southern Italy and preserved at the

height of tomato season when the fruit is at

its peak. They use several DOP (an affirmation

of specificity and literally a protected

designation of origin) types of

cheese like Piave, which

is produced in the

Dolomites area in

the northernmost

tip of the

Veneto region,

Montasio, a

nutty, semi-hard

mountain cheese

from the Veneto

region, and Asiago,

a semi-cooked cow’s

milk cheese from the

Asiago plateau.

Dino sources his pepperoni,

ground beef, ground pork, and pancetta from

Metzger Meats in Hensall, which is known for

carefully selecting ingredients from trusted

producers who use traditional European

methods, and also for the latest in food

processing innovation. Occasionally Gerhard

Metzger purchases wild boar from Ingrid and

Fred Des Martines, the owners of Perth Pork

Products. Seasonal produce is procured from

Howe Farms, which has been operating in

Elgin County for five generations.

Entertaining is Carla Dassie’s forte. Walking

through the restaurant she stops at a

table to suggest a small batch

organic wine, or attentively

inquire about a

patron’s meal or wellbeing.

She converses

with and listens to

her customers. She

champions the art

of hospitality with

composure. Sonia Williams

is the charming and

knowledgeable front house

manager who runs the show.

There is a lot to like on the menu. Fat Olive

specializes in paninis, strombolis (a cousin

of the calzone, with the sauce on the inside),

freshly made pasta, home-made sauces,

bruschetta flatbread, tiramisu, and cannoli

with sweet ricotta. Signature dishes include

a creamy, fresh semolina fettuccine alfredo

with pancetta, herbs and Parmigiano. There is


eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

Roast Pig with Chefs Nolan Darling and Dino Dassie

a house-made semolina rigatoni with roasted

pepper, caramelized onions, goat cheese and a

balsamic glaze. Crispy-coated Chicken Parmesan

is served with a side of spaghetti in a rich tomato

sauce. At dinner the spaghetti comes with a

Fat Meatball. There is a New York Striploin,

Hickory-smoked Pork Chop and Salmon Risotto

with lemon, arugula and roasted peppers and

balsamic glaze. We love the Forest Berry gelato

sourced from the Cream Beanery.

Special and unique Italian wines come

from a consigner who also supplies some of

Toronto’s Buca restaurant’s private imports.

Carla and Sonia are knowledgeable and

will help guide you through less familiar

territory on the excellent wine list. There is

a good and varied blackboard selection of

craft beer. Fat Olive uses the same love and

culinary techniques you will find in an Italian

home kitchen. Carla sums up the Fat Olive

experience in a few words: good food, family,

friends, love, and homemade. Be sure to make

a reservation.

Fat Olive

2135 Dorchester Road, Dorchester

519-268-0001

fatolive.ca

tuesday: 4:00 pm–8:00 pm

wednesday: 11:30 am–8:00 pm

thursday: 11:30 am–9:00 pm

friday & saturday: 11:30 am–10:00 pm

sunday: 11am–2:00 pm / 4:00 pm–7:00 pm

BRYAN LAVERY is Eatdrink ‘s Food Editor and Writer

at Large.

Left, from top: Mushroom Pesto Stromboli; Fettuccine

Alfredo; Fat Olive Garden Greens; Sweet Ricotta Mini

Cannoli; Classic Tiramisu. Photos by Terry Manzo.


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

September/October 2019 | 17

on Sept. 15 & Sept. 30

STREET FOOD

SUNDAY

SEPT. 15 & SEPT. 29

Food Trucks • Vendors

Live Music • Craft Beer

Rescues • Vendors

Craft Beer • Food


18 | September/October 2019

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

Spotlight

New Hotspots

Four Noteworthy Additions to Our Culinary Scene

By THE EDITORS

IRONWORKS kitchen

529 Dundas Street, Woodstock

519-290-0926

ironworkskitchen.ca

monday–saturday 9am–11pm

sunday 9am–9pm

Downtown Woodstock’s newest addition

is the recently opened 160-seat Ironworks

kitchen.

The name

is a nod

to Wood

stock Iron

Works, established in 1842 by Homer Pratt

Brown, who became town mayor in 1861.

Lunch and dinner menus feature elevated

comfort food. Signature items include the

“Homer Brown Burger” and the “Ironworks

Salad,” as well as plenty of nods to today,

including short ribs, rainbow trout, lamb

shanks, chipotle mac’n cheese, and steak and

frites. The Kids Menu includes a charcuterie

board! There is even dessert poutine.

Bocconcini

1140 Southdale Road West, London

519-601-7799

bocconcinilondon.ca

monday–thursday 11:30am–9pm

friday 11:30am–10pm

saturday 4pm–10pm / sunday 4m–8pm

We’re crazy for the

delectable gnocchi

at Radu Rotariu’s

Italian-inspired

Bocconcini at

Southdale and

Boler Road in Byron. Chef Brian Honsinger’s

pillowy potato dumplings with braised beef,

cabernet and wild mushrooms are authentic

and classic Italian cuisine. Try the ovenroasted

Tuscan-inspired chicken. There is a

wood-fired oven for fresh bread and pizza. The

manicotti is outstanding and the silky, housemade

tiramisu otherworldly.


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

September/October 2019 | 19

The Little Green Grocery

129 Downie Street, Stratford

519-305-8544

thelittlegreengrocery.com

monday–saturday 8:30am–7pm

sunday 9am–4pm

Formerly known as

Your Local Market

Co-op, The Little

Green Grocery recently

relaunched as a boutique

grocery store “that has

everything you need in one

quaint little space.” At once both a throwback

to simpler times and a forward-thinking

enterprise committed to environmental

sustainability, the store adds a different

element to the charm of downtown Stratford.

Fruit and vegetables from local farmers are

available in season, of course, but in the spirit

of “one stop shopping,” items such as lemons

are also available. Similar thinking means there

are items for vegan, vegetarian and carnivore

diets. Every day, in-house chefs make bread,

sandwiches, salads, frozen meals, pastries and

“healthy bites.” They also make delicious dips,

spreads and dressings, even ice cream.

Striving to make “zero waste” easier, there is

a refill section for items like shampoo, lotions,

dish soap, laundry detergent, and a number of

dry goods. Bring your own bags and containers.

Should you forget, free donated containers are

on hand. Catering is also available.

The Tin Fiddler Brew Pub &

River Run Brew Co.

146/148 Christina Street North, Sarnia

226-784-2337

facebook.com/pg/TheTinFiddler/

sunday–thursday 11am–10pm

friday & saturday 11am–midnight

Mark Woolsey

and John

Tidball are

partners in

the new Tin Fiddler

Brew Pub, located in a

large historic building

(circa 1890–1910) in

downtown Sarnia.

They have also launched

River Run Brew Co. after

gutting the basement and installing fermenters

and equipment purchased from another craft

brewery that was upsizing. Initially, they are

brewing a range of beers exclusively for their

own pub, and it’s been a challenge to meet the

demand of enthusiastic customers.

Extensive renovations to the 12,000-squarefoot

interior have revealed long-hidden charms

in the space, highlighted by 16-foot plaster

ceilings, brick walls and a terrazzo floor. A new

kitchen and washrooms have been installed. An

outdoor courtyard, opened last year, got good

use this summer as a live music venue. The

food menu includes an interesting selection of

sophisticated pub food, including a traditional

fish & chips, onion rings battered with puffed

quinoa, and lamb tacos.


20 | September/October 2019

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

SPONSORED BY

Road Trips

Road Trip Redux

A Dozen Years of Discovery and Celebration

By CHRIS McDONELL

After a dozen years of publishing

this magazine, it struck me that a

roundup of my favourite Road Trip

stories would be an appropriate

way to show off some of our stellar writers

and the amazing destinations that we’ve

covered. In theory, this was a great idea. In

reality, as I waded through the archives on

our website, it became clear to me that this

roundup wouldn’t serve our readers without

some editing. It is the nature of the culinary

industry that excellent businesses come

and go, and sometimes this happens within

Elgin County

eatdrink.ca/an-authentic-taste-of-elgincounty/

by Bryan Lavery, July 2016

A postcard-perfect fishing village on the

shores of Lake Erie, Port Stanley is known for

its harbour, colourful heritage buildings, and

the iconic King George VI lift bridge. Regular

visitors to “Port,” as it is known by locals, are

attracted to the village’s dynamic artistic community,

Port Stanley Festival Theatre, galleries

and specialty shops. A big draw is the main

beach, which offers one of the best stretches

of sandy beach on the north shore of Lake

Erie and is home to a newly refurbished pier ...

months of our writing about a destination.

The first good news, I saw in my overview

of Eatdrink Road Trip stories, is that the

vast majority of the hotspots we’ve written

about remain alive and well and worthy of

celebration. I have excerpted a great deal of

the original text. The other good news is that

these destinations have become even more

exciting with the addition of new businesses.

You’ll find some of those listed here, as well

as links to the original stories that remain

worthy of your attention. Here’s an enticing

handful of great destinations. Enjoy.

Nestled in the heart of Port Stanley, Kettle

Creek Inn is one of “Ontario’s Finest Inns.”

Jean and Gary Vedova opened the doors to

Kettle Creek Inn in 1983, after renovating the

building. The Vedovas, along with sons Troy

and Dean, are hands-on. Menus showcase a

commitment to the area with ingredients that

are farmed, fished or foraged locally, such as

the perch and pickerel that arrive in the kitchen

daily. The Ontario-reared meats are all fresh

products, and signature dishes include a locallyrevered

pot pie ...

The Inn has 10 guest rooms and five luxury

Picture yourself...

Relaxing on our patio,

Enjoying Lunch, Dinner or a snack,

Staying the evening in a room or suite!

Main Street, Port Stanley

(519)782-3388

www.kettlecreekinn.com

information@kettlecreekinn.com


22 | September/October 2019

suites. Dining options include a parlour with

a cozy fireplace, an intimate English-inspired

pub, two dining rooms, a gazebo and a stunning

garden terrace. Jean tells us, “Guests can prop

up their feet on their porch or balcony, sip a

libation and amble down for dinner under the

gazebo. It doesn’t get much better.” [Update:

Enjoy new sidewalk patio seating!]

Port Stanley’s Solo on Main is located in

the heritage home previously occupied by

Mickey’s Boathouse. Solo on Main is a familyrun

business with chef Lauren Van Dixhoorn

growers & creators of fine lavender products

DISCOVER.

INDULGE.

ESCAPE.

519-494-5525

47589 Sparta Line, Sparta

Wed–Sat 10-5; Sun 12–4

Mother’s Day to Dec. 20

steedandcompany.com

Visit

Our Website

• Online Store

• Recipes

& much more!

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

at the helm. In seasonable weather there is

a smartly appointed patio and inviting front

porch that offers alfresco seating and great

“Port” views. Inside, there is a charming

walnut bar in the lounge, topped with quartz.

The casual white-linen dining room with

its original hardwood floors is decorated in

warm gray tones and the walls are adorned

with local art. The cooking is refined and the

presentation modern and thoughtful... There

are pickerel and perch, Lake Erie staples,

either pan fried or breaded. The culinary

experience succeeds on many levels.

Just off the main beach in Port Stanley,

The Windjammer Inn is the former Shephard

House (1854), built by Samuel Shephard, a

prominent local grain merchant. Owner and

accomplished chef Kim Saunders sources

her ingredients from the large farm network

in Elgin County. In her eleventh season,

her personal culinary style is evident on

the menus, which state the kitchen’s food

philosophy. “We use Local and Organic,

Ethically Raised Products as much as possible.

Thank you to our Farmers!” Saunders, who

was raised on a farm, grows many of her own

herbs, edible flowers and heirloom vegetables

in the gardens surrounding the Inn. Lake

Erie fresh line-caught perch and pickerel

are available in season. Think lightly smokeroasted

Everspring duck breast with ricotta

herb gnocchi, roasted broccoli and rhubarb

ginger chutney. Scratch breads, artisanal

cheeses, fresh farm produce, local meats

and Saunders’ baking round out the menu.

In season, the restaurant has seating on the

newly rebuilt wraparound porch. The Inn has

three tastefully appointed rooms and two

separate rooms next door. [Update: Now

Feast ON-certified!]

Update: A new hotspot in Port Stanley,

!

da

WindjammerDINE

The

STAY

Recommended in Where To Eat In Canada for 10 years

Modern Farmhouse Cuisine

INN

Join us for Dinner Wednesday–Sunday & Weekend Brunch

Comfortable Accommodations Year Round

324 Smith St, Port Stanley • 519-782-4173 • www.thewindjammerinn.com


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

Two Forks, features a “beachy chic” decor,

complemented by a gorgeous patio and chef’s

garden.... Small plates, designed for sharing,

are made with local ingredients from scratch.

You’ll find freshly shucked live oysters right

at the bar, local wine on tap, craft beer flights

and handcrafted cocktails. (Eatdrink #78,

July 2019).

The blooms were harvested a little later

this summer, but Steed & Company remains

worthy of a side trip to charming Sparta.

“Lavender is the same family as mint,” noted

Suzanne Steed to Eatdrink writer Tanya Chopp

(Eatdrink #76, March 2019). “If you look at a

lavender spike, it’s square — and if you look

at a mint stem, it’s square also. We’re familiar

with mint’s strong flavour, and lavender’s

strength is similar. However, lavender has

the ability to really enhance flavours. We

have a raspberry-strawberry preserve, and

lavender picks up the raspberry and helps it

pop. It also enhances the flavour of our dark

chocolate, and the vanilla in our ice cream. It’s

remarkable in that way: it enhances whatever

you use it with, but adds a floral note.” Steed

& Co. remains open until Christmas.

295 Bridge Street, Port Stanley

NOW

OPEN

Scratch Cooking

Small Plates

Local Ingredients

Craft Cocktails

Local Wines on Tap

Craft Beers

226.658.4887 @twoforks295


24 | September/October 2019

Chatham-Kent

eatdrink.ca/festivals-food-and-fun/ by

Darin Cook, November 2016

Early Acres Estate Winery’s reds, whites, and

blushes [there are even a couple of wine blends

with local fruit on offer] have collectively

garnered 21 awards for the winery since

opening in 2012. Located just outside Chatham,

Early Acres holds monthly summer events

with local entertainment on its country estate.

[Update: Their Cabernet Francs may have

made the biggest impression to date.]

If you extend your visit into more than a

day trip, Retro Suites Hotel at the corner of

King and William Street is the place you want

to spend the night. Even if this is your only

stop in Chatham, spending a night here is

worth it for the architecture and décor alone.

This boutique hotel, with 52 individuallythemed

suites, was honoured with

TripAdvisor’s Travelers’ Choice Award in the

Best Hotels section in all of Canada in 2015.

When dinner rolls around, here are a few

downtown hot spots. On the street level of Retro

Suites, with an atmosphere matching the hotel,

The Chilled Cork is a funky restaurant where

Chef Leona Williamson cranks out exquisite

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

contemporary dishes from the kitchen.

A short walk down King Street, Mamma

Maria’s Ristorante has become the area’s best

Italian experience. The old world ambience

feels as Italian as the food tastes. “Boasting a

large menu with a variety of selection to whet

every appetite, along with an extensive wine

list, the menu provides for a food experience

that is second to none.”

Beyond the downtown core, Spice & Curry

located on Kiel Drive, is the city’s best-kept

secret. It’s run by business partners Shelly

Sakhuja and Chef Gurmeet Singh. Chef

cheerfully toils in the kitchen sending out

the aroma of simmering sauces with spices

roasted and ground from scratch. Shelly

works the front of house, pleasantly greeting

and seating guests and delivering steaming

bowls of curry and baskets of still-warn Naan

bread. You cannot go wrong with any menu

options, especially the Tikka Masala and

Madras dishes, which Chef will adjust to your

preferred heat level.

Parks Blueberries on Highway 2 lets you

turn farm work into fun by partaking in the

pick-your-own option on 50 acres of fields.

Simply the finest authentic Italian cuisine available in the region!

• Family-owned & operated

• Beautiful patio on Thames River

• Catering and 2 well-appointed

private function rooms available

• Family-friendly (Kids Menu Available)

From-scratch cooking with

the best local ingrendients

231 King Street West, Chatham 519-360-1600

Open for Dinner Daily / Lunch Monday-Saturday mammamariasristorante.ca


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

Aside from freshly-picked blueberries, the

country store is full of preserves, kitchen

supplies, and handcrafts. You will also want

to sample the blueberry-filled baked goods.

Taking that southbound drive further,

you will reach the fishing village of Erieau

where Bayside Brew Pub provides craft beer

and wood-fired pizzas in a perfect setting

overlooking Lake Erie. The pizzas are the

crowd favourite and Bayside also throws a

twist on other pub food like Chicken Wings

from the Fire, and Beer Battered Onion Rings.

Update: Sons of Kent Craft Brewing

Company is downtown Chatham’s destination

craft brewery. Their 8 Track XPA (5.7% ABV,

Huron County

eatdrink.ca/county-bounty-culinaryadventures-in-huron-county/

by Jane

Antoniak, July 2018

You could call a food and beverage road

trip through Huron County crop touring at

its finest ... You might want to start your

tour in Exeter, a half-hour north of London.

Eddington’s of Exeter, a Feast ON-certified

restaurant run by Chef James Eddington,

offers a true taste of Huron in a heritage

September/October 2019 | 25

55 IBU) has garnered special notice in this

magazine and elsewhere for its strong citrus

aromas, pleasant bitterness and smooth,

balanced mouthfeel. Producing premium

beer using traditional methods and modern

ingredients, Sons of Kent has an on-site

tasting room, event space, a bottleshop, live

entertainment, and a kitchen striving to let

“your senses run riot ... using local, seasonal

ingredients to prepare fun, shareable items to

pair with our large selection of craft beers.”

Look for the kick-butt Reuben sandwich with

Schinkles’ corned beef, dijon, and fried swiss

on Pinnel’s rye and everchanging daily and

weekly specials.

building with a welcoming three-season

patio. Chef literally bought the farm: 25

acres on Lake Huron provide the freshest of

ingredients, and he’s having his own beers

brewed to his high-quality specifications.

Beach Street Station is a converted heritage

railway station now situated on the Goderich

main beach. Open for lunch and dinner, the

vaulted ceilings and 1907 architecture create

interesting ambiance, but the large patio

BISTRO • CONFERENCE • SUITES • SPA

519-565-2576

LakeHouseofBayfield.com

Farm to Table Restaurant

Fresh Seasonal Menus • 3-Season Covered Patio

Eddington’s Farm

A breathtaking 25 acres along Lake Huron

Eddington’s Culinary Tours

Once-in-a-Lifetime International Adventures

Eddington’s Craft Beer

Exclusive Premium Handcrafted Beers

Join us on Facebook /Instagram for updates & upcoming events!

527 Main Street, Exeter ON | 519-235-3030

30 min N of London | 20 min E of Grand Bend | 30 min W of Stratford

www.eddingtons.ca


26 | September/October 2019

overlooking the beach is also very inviting.

You might grab a locally-roasted coffee and

a pastry at the fabulous Cait’s Café on the

square. Cait and husband Spencer Vail are

dedicated to using local products, especially

from Huron County, and have been Feast

ON-certified. The buttery croissants might

be enough on their own, but only get better

with a thick slice of Metzger’s bacon or a slice

of a local organic tomato. Cait’s the baker

and Spencer, who served as executive chef at

nearby Benmiller Inn for six years, calls his

cooking style “Progressive Canadian.” Check

out what’s fresh that day.

Enjoy a refreshing beer tasting from Square

Brew near the YMCA. [Update: This remains

Goderich’s only brewery. Enjoy an interesting

beer in a friendly, welcoming space, or grab

some to go.

Just down the road outside Goderich, you’ll

find the Maitland Market, where you can pick

up some fresh Ontario produce, organic and

pasture-raised meats, locally made cheese and

organic and free run eggs.

Another stop on the Goderich tour might

include lunch, dinner or just a great dessert

at Samuel’s Hotel, situated a few kilometres

Experience Hessenland Inn & Vineyard

Where heritage is infused into every vine and vintage

Join us for one of our

Signature Events!

• Thanksgiving Buffet & Dinner

• 4th Annual Long Table Dinner

• Novemberfest

• Weddings, Conferences & Retreats

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

from Goderich in Salford. This boutique hotel

offers wonderful amenities, with a private patio

and fireplace in every room, and house-made

gourmet cupcakes in the lobby. Daytrippers are

welcomed too, and the lunch and dinner menus

include a strong list of nearby suppliers.

While in Goderich you shouldn’t miss a

crème-filled donut at Culbert’s Bakery. It is

well worth a stop. The bakery typically sells

out early on weekends.

For a sit-down meal to celebrate a special

occasion or for a break from the road, Thyme

on 21 offers lovely lunches and dinners in a

historic home just off the square on Highway

21. Family-owned and operated, this special

place believes in full service with an easy

country pace. It is consistently rated a top

place to dine in Goderich.

For those who want the country roads

experience, Highway 21 is a fun way to cruise

the coast of beautiful Lake Huron. It would be

ideal to start this tour in Bayfield at Shopbike

Coffee Roasters, where you get Fair Trade

coffee or amazing gelato. Fourteen fresh

flavours and counting ...

Further south, try the delicious apple-based

beers at Bad Apple Brewing Co. and Ingram’s

“Where everyone knows your game”

New Pro Shop

Opening Soon!

Accommodations • Award-Winning Gardens • Private Beach Access

Vineyard • Dining Room with European & Locally Inspired Fare

Located steps from Lake Huron between Grand Bend & Bayfield

Call 519-236-7707 or 866-543-7736

hessen@hessenland.com • www.hessenland.com

Reservations required for all events

18 Hole Golf Course • Year-round Restaurant / Bar

whitesquirrelgolfclub.com

7 km north of Grand Bend on Hwy. 21


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

Apple Orchard, and then for some salty

goodness in the form of pork pepperettes

at The Whole Pig in Dashwood, just off the

highway. While in Dashwood you may also

want top pop into Hayter’s Farm for some

turkey products, so bring that cooler!

As you wind your way back to Bayfield, pop

into the Bayfield Berry Farm for your sample

of jam to take home. In season, you can also

pick up fruits and vegetables.

Staying the night in Bayfield is always a

treat and there are more options in the village

than ever before ... The Lake House of Bayfield

offers seven spacious guest rooms, some with

their own balconies overlooking main street

and all outfitted with antique furnishings. As

well, there is now a spa onsite and overnight

packages include spa, dining and golf at a

nearby course. A small conference space is

available for meetings, and a lovely backyard

patio. “There’s a lot of history and character in

this place,” says co-owner Graham Wallace. “We

have taken it from fine dining to a lot more

casual.” Co-owner Chef Cody McWhirter has

created a tasty menu. The Baron Burger is a

real treat. It features smoked bacon from The

Whole Pig on a succulent burger patty of fresh

September/October 2019 | 27

ground brisket and chuck beef. There are two

local beers on tap from River Road Brewing

and Hops in Bayfield (the Zesty Farmer Pale

Ale offers a citrus freshness) and a pilsner from

Stone House Brewing Co. in nearby Varna.

Bayfield accom mo dations are also available

at The Little Inn, a historic venue very popular

with wedding groups and couples looking for

a getaway. Arguably, it has the most lovely

breakfast service in the county.

South of Bayfield on Highway 21 at St.

Joseph is the Hessenland Country Inn. The Inn

has five acres of groomed gardens, an emerging

vineyard [Update: Hessenland’s boutique

vineyard, Schatz Winery, has now produced

their first bottles!] and a outdoor pool with

indoor hot tub spa. If you happen to stay over

on a Thursday evening in July or August you

can enjoy the Mongolian Grill. This popular

summertime tradition gives guests the chance

to create their own combination plates of fish,

seafood, meats and vegetables which are grilled

outdoors by Chef Frank Ihrig and his staff.

Indoors, there is live music and additional

foods including spätzle, salad and desserts. The

meal comes with a glass of wine or beer.

No stop-over in Bayfield is complete

Real Food. Hand Crafted.

Featuring

Creative Menus

from Chefs

Erryn Shephard

&

Ben Sandwith

NEW

Teacher’s

Lounge

Now Open!

Always Available

for Caterings!

Lunch and Dinner

Seasonal Hours

Reservations Recommended

519.238.6224

42 Ontario St. S., Grand Bend

www.finearestaurant.com

Across from the TD Canada Trust

TUES–FRI @ 11am • SAT & SUN @ 9am


28 | September/October 2019

without popping into neighbourhood pubs

The Black Dog Pub & Bistro and The Albion

Hotel. Just look for the line-ups. Yes, you can

bring your dog to the patio at the Black Dog.

While there, the enthusiastic bar staff will

make you an outstanding Caesar or suggest

one of the 20 beers on tap. You also can

tap into the knowledge banks of owner Ted

McIntosh, an expert in the field of single malt

whiskeys. The food is equally stellar.

Cowbell Brewing Co., Huron’s awardwinning

destination craft brewery in Blyth,

OPEN

ALL YEAR

ROUND!

10am–6pm

DAILY

Something

for

Everyone!

Fresh Local Ingredients

Gluten Free & Vegetarian Options

Great Selection of Craft Beer & Cider

Tuesday–Saturday

Lunch 11:30–2:00 & Dinner 4:45–8:45

159 Queen Street, St. Marys ON

519-914-8811

Follow Us!

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

features a beautiful restaurant with indoor

and outdoor seating, a retail store, and

entertainment spaces. Long anticipated,

Cowbell has attracted excited crowds since it

opened. [Update: Cowbell remains popular!

Reservations strongly suggested. See our

story from January: eatdrink.ca/winningtogether-cowbell-brewing-co-craft-beerthat-rings-true]

Update: White Squirrel Golf Club has

emerged as another interesting dining locale

off Highway 21. Open to golfers as well as just

to those looking for a bite, there’s a newly renovated

clubhouse (soon to be joined by a new pro

shop) and an inviting seasonal patio. The yearround

restaurant/bar focusses on local ingredients,

and is open for lunch and dinner daily.

Grand Bend sits just over the Huron County

border in Lambton County. Worth noting are

two longtime Eatdrink favourites, Schoolhouse

Restaurant, run by Chef Gus Merkies, and

F.I.N.E. A Restaurant, owned by Chef Erryn

Sheppard. Chef Gus has opened a new Teacher’s

Lounge on the lower level, perfect for a pre- or

post-dinner cocktail. This is a great spot for

weekend breakfasts and lunch and dinner with

a family-friendly menu with interesting local

twists. F.I.N.E. is more about, no surprise, fine

dining, with Chef Ben Sandwith anchoring the

kitchen with Chef Erryn. Check out our story

from last May (eatdrink.ca/ mighty-f-i-n-efor-fifteen-years-f-i-n-e-a-restaurant-ingrand-bend).

Note: Last issue, Bryan Lavery wrote about

his more recent trip to Bayfield. Check it out

at: eatdrink.ca/a-guide-to-bayfield-whatwhere-and-why

Stratford & Perth County

On the one hand, Stratford is so integral

to Eatdrink that it sometimes seems like an

oxymoron to describe a visit as a Road Trip.

IN-STORE BAKERY

& GIFT SHOP

Old Fashioned Sausage

Smoked Pork Products

Bacon & Ribs

Local Artisan Cheeses

Large Selection of Gourmet Condiments

Visit Percy, Our 10-foot Pig!

The Finest Local Poultry Products

Free Range & Drug Free

#2146 Highway 7 & 8, Shakespeare ON

519-625-8194

www.porkshoppe.com


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

There are too many Stratford-based stories

to begin to cite them here, but Bryan Lavery

took a dedicated visit to Perth County that

remains a highlight for me.

eatdrink.ca/a-perth-county-adventure/

by Bryan Lavery, November 2016

Recently I participated in a tour of Perth

County with Cathy Rehberg from Stratford

Tourism Alliance (STA) and Agatha Podgorski

from the Ontario Culinary Tourism Alliance.

They know how to set the benchmark of

industry best practice for culinary tourism.

We toured the new home of the Stratford

Chefs School on Ontario Street while it was

still under construction. [Update: Now open!

Check stratfordchef.com for the impressive

list of events.] Double storefront units are

being repurposed into teaching kitchens

and a 50-seat restaurant with a great street

presence. The new facility allows the school

to merge its teaching operations into one

campus, and makes it feasible to add an

additional semester in the summer months.

Stratford Chefs School is not only known for

producing great chefs but also entrepreneurs.

The next leg of the tour included stops and

tastings at the Black Swan Brewing Company on

Downie Street. We moved on to Downie Street

Burgers where we sampled the signature poutine

with bacon and tomato jam and St. Albert

cheese curds covered in gravy. Here we also

quaffed a pint of Black Swan’s Berliner Weisse.

Next on the itinerary was Mike Heisz’s

distillery, Junction 56, located in the former

Pounder Brothers Building beside the Cambria

Street railway tracks. We toured the distillery

and tasted Heisz’s award-wining vodka, gin,

and signature moonshine. You can stop by

for a taste and a tour Saturdays at 11 am and

while you are there you can purchase some

locally crafted spirits for the holiday season ...

Every Stratford restaurant worth its

salt has owners and chefs dedicated to a

balance of principles and procedures in an

effort to offer a memorable and hospitable

dining experience. Some restaurants and

accommodators do this much better than

others. Mercer Kitchen + Beer Hall + Hotel

features items that are meant to be shared

communally and reflect Mercer’s passions

for the craft beer movement, and for

building community. Chef prepared a multicourse

tasting for our party showcasing his

gastronomic oeuvre. The menu itself is an

education on Perth County food procurement

and is designed to appeal to the local

From our farm to your table ...

Award winning hand crafted

alpine style cheese

Monday to Friday 9am–5pm

Saturday 9am–4pm

Stonetown Artisan Cheese

5021 Perth Line 8

St. Marys ON

Fresh Cheese Curds

Cheese Tastings

Gift Baskets &

Gift Boxes

Cheese Trays

Fondue & Raclette

519-229-6856

info@stonetowncheese.com

www.stonetowncheese.com

Homestyle Cooking & Baking

Family Owned & Operated

Come in and try our

FAMOUS BROASTED CHICKEN

& Homemade Mennonite Meals & Baking!

Featuring over 17 varieties of homemade pies

& many other homemade goodies including

bread, tarts, muffins, cookies & cheesecake.

All items are baked fresh daily

& available to eat in or take out.

Gluten free baking now available!

Enjoy the scenic drive to the heart of Amish country in Millbank.

We would love to serve you!

MON–SAT 7am–8pm Cash or Debit Accepted

www.annamaes.ca • 519-595-4407


eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

Casual Family-Friendly Italian

Eat In • Take Out • Patio

Licensed

Tuesday–Thursday 4:30–9:00

Friday–Saturday 4:30–10:00

38 Erie Street, Stratford

519-305-3838

www.aopasta.com

community as well as visitors.

We began our second day at Anne Campion’s

Revel, located in a former feed store off

Stratford’s Market Square. Its tagline is

“independent coffee for a revolution.” This

community hub includes a custom-made

communal table where we assembled for coffee

and samples of delicious in-house baking.

The next part of our trip was through

gently rolling landscape dotted with farms

on the outskirts of the historic stone

town of St. Marys. Here lies the pastoral

50-acre Transvaal Farm. Cindy Taylor and

husband Scott McLauchlan are the epitome

of hospitality and provide an informative

agritourism experience. Besides meeting “the

girls,” a bevy of Rhode Island Reds, the main

elements of this adventure are a tour of the

farm property by Scott McLaughlan, a lavish

farm-to-table breakfast prepared by Cindy at

the guest house, and a tour of the small-scale

artisan goat cheese plant operated by Cindy’s

brother, owner and cheesemaker of C’estbon

Cheese Limited, George Taylor.

Operations at C’estbon began as a retirement

project for Taylor 16 years ago when

he swapped a flock of sheep for a herd of

Globally inspired Tacos, Tapas, & Prix Fixe

Every Saturday 10pm - 2am

A POP-UP SNACK BAR

@ latenightlao

Please call

519.273.5886

for Reservations

@themillstoneON

themillstone.ca

30 Ontario St.

Stratford, ON


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

Toggenburg and La Mancha goats. George

began crafting small-batch cheese using only

the milk from his own herd to create his proprietary

C’estbon chèvre. In time, George relocated

his goats to a neighbouring farm. The

goat milk is now delivered from a local producer,

Hewitt’s Dairy. True artisanal cheese

can’t be mass-produced and is limited in quantity

with specific characteristics deemed to be

specialty in nature. Not a single item leaves

C’estbon without George’s thumbprint on it.

Stonetown Cheese on Perth County Line 8

(Kirkton Road) was our next stop. Stonetown

is a purveyor of Swiss mountain-style cheeses,

hand-crafted by master cheesemaker Ramon

Eberle. Using unpasteurized milk from farmers

Hans and Jolanda Weber’s herd of Holsteins,

Eberle creates three types of cheese. We are

given a tour through the state-of-the-art milk

receiving area, where the milk is brought to be

processed and is heat-treated to 65° Celsius.

The goal of using raw milk is to keep the cheese

as natural as possible, so that it ripens nicely

and the flavours improve with maturation.

In another area the cheese curds are stirred,

separated from the whey and pressed into

wheels before they are brined. There are three

“A fun place to shop

for housewares and gifts!”

Sample delicious local eats,

meet inspiring producers and

marvel at the tempting array

of fresh and artisanal edibles.

From farm to table, pork to pies

to pints, discover more

in Perth County!

restaurants

farm gates

• SUPPORTS HEALTHY SKIN

• SAME PH AS HUMANS

• HYDRATES AND BRIGHTENS SKIN

Beekman soaps and skin care

products are designed on a farm,

not in a lab. Many incorporate

fresh goat milk and can be used

on the most sensitive of skin.

WATSON’S

CHELSEA BAZAAR

84 Ontario St. Stratford

watsonsofstratford.com

519-273-1790

food shops

Find us, follow us!

#DiscoverMore #PerthCounty

@PerthCoTourism

perthcountytourism.ca


32 | September/October 2019

very large and impressive maturation rooms

for the aging of the cheese. The trio of stunning

cheeses and other local products are available

to buy on-site at the farm store. I highly

recommend a visit for cheese lovers.

There were additional stops at McCully’s

Hill Farm and Market for a tour of the bush in

a horse-drawn wagon and an overview of the

maple syrup processing facilities, and at The

Best Little Pork Shoppe in Shakespeare.

It is certainly invigorating to explore the

bucolic countryside in and around Perth

County. Drop by the Stratford Tourism

Alliance for culinary tours of another kind.

Self-guided Bacon & Ale Trail and Chocolate

Trail tours are available all year round and

tickets are available at the Stratford Tourism

Alliance. There is also a seasonal Maple Trail

to look forward to in March and April.

[Update: The original story referenced a

great spot in St. Marys, now closed, that is now

home to Harris Electric Eatery. Chef Jordy

Carr reached back into the building’s history,

when it was home to Harris Electric until

1979. Carr embraces a farm-to-table approach,

making everything in house, from preserves

to smoked meats and charcuterie. Chef’s goal

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

is to have “something for everyone” with great

sandwiches and burgers, salads and perhaps

steak frites or a creative take on Asian and

Latino cuisines. Leave room for dessert!

Space does not permit details of some of the

other invigorating Road Trip stories that

come to mind. Sue Sutherland-Wood took two

memorable road trips for us this year, one to

Elora and a more recent one to Essex County. I

encourage you to revisit those with us online. In

fact, we’ve had a number of interesting visits to

Essex, including visits to Windsor, Pelee Island,

and deep dives into the EPIC wine region.

Some of our stories in this column have

been into the USA, from Buffalo to Cleveland

to Frankenmuth. Kym Wolfe made memorable

travels to Niagara-on-the-Lake and Prince

Edward County for us. Bryan Lavery gave us

insider looks at Kingston, Kitchener-Waterloo,

and Paris ON. Wherever you’re heading,

I encourage you to run a quick search at

eatdrink.ca. Happy Trails!

CHRIS McDONELL is Publisher and the founder of

Eatdrink. He can be reached at chris@eatdrink.ca

PATIO NOW OPEN


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

Beer

Explore and Discover

Twelve Must-Try Craft Beers

September/October 2019 | 33

BY GEORGE MACKE

Craft beer exploration is a 12-pack of

delights in London and area, where

the microbrewing scene is finally

coming of age in terms of quality,

quirkiness, and neighbourhood legends.

Here are 12 places true beer fans must visit in

person, to take home fresh tallboy cans or to

pull up a chair and wax poetic about hops and

malts with fellow fans. We’ve included the one

beer from each that you must try.

Anderson Craft Ales, 1030 Elias St., London.

Okay, no tall boy cans here. Anderson keeps it

short with 355 ml cans of the brands that have

created a buzz, such as Anderson Cream Ale and

big boy Anderson IPA with its 6.5 per cent ABV

and 60 IBU.

But for those

on a treasure

hunt, it’s the

new Anderson

Brewer’s

Reserve

monthly

series of innovative beers aged in barrels. Anderson

is known for flexing its fitness cred, from

running and cycling clubs to beer yoga, and combining

all of that with flavourful beers consumed

in moderation with friends for a healthy, happy

lifestyle.

Must try: Anderson Brewer’s Reserve

monthly release.

Beerlab! London, 420 Talbot St.,

London. The newest entry on the London

microbrewery scene is the result of hard

work by two buddies who started brewing in

a Kensal Park garage.

This boutique brewery,

next door to Milos’

Craft Beer Emporium

and a stone’s throw

from Budweiser

Gardens, is only open

a few hours a week (on

Wednesday, Thursday, Friday and Saturday

mid-afternoons and evenings, and Sunday

afternoons). Beerlab’s takeaways are eyepopping

32-ounce crowlers.

Must try: Obi Porter.

Black Swan, 144 Downie St., Stratford.

Established by a pair of local teachers,

Black Swan provides

an education in really,

really nice beers. A

recent renewal of the

brewhouse means

things will sometimes

get a little out there, as

the creative licence has

been issued. The backbone

of the brewery is

the excellent English Pale

Ale, which in addition to being available at the

brewery is served at many of Stratford’s fine

eateries.

Must try: Holy Mole Stout with Chilis and

Chocolate.

Cowbell Brewing, 40035 Blyth Rd., Blyth.

This is rural Ontario’s most special brewery,

and it’s not just because of the massive,

barn-like architecture. It’s also about the

beer. What you’ve seen from Cowbell at the

LCBO — brands such as Absent Landlord

kolsch — are just the tip of the iceberg.

A self-guided tour takes you above

the brewhouse floor, and the in-house

restaurant features wood-fired pizza

and farm-to-fork menu items aching to

be properly paired with Cowbell beers.

Must try: Blended Almanac 2018

Barley Wine and Almanac 2019

Imperial Stout. These beers,

originally released in August 2018

and August 2019 to mark Cowbell’s

first and second anniversaries, have

been blended in a special black tank

near the bar. A limited quantity of


34 | September/October 2019

psum

RAW. LIVE. LOCAL. ORGANIC.

SMALL ARTISANAL BATCHES MADE WITH LOVE

BY REGISTERED HOLISTIC NUTRITIONISTS

open year round

23 Main St.

Grand Bend, ON

cultureshockkombucha.com

#loveyourgut

the rested result will be

poured in November at

the brewery.

Curley Brewing Company,

1634 Hyde Park

Rd., London. Paired with

a vegan cafe (grilled

cheese with cashew

mozza, anyone?), Curley Brewing Company has

four beer recipes. Due to current licensing, they

are for in-house consumption only. All beers

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

brewed here are vegan, which isn’t hard to do in

the beer world once you eliminate honey browns

and milk stouts (which have lactose sugar as a

sweetener). Curley Brewing’s owners got off to

a choppy start, stymied by zoning in an attempt

to first open in East London. Then after fixing

up an old building in Hyde Park they had to

pack up, take a break, and move a short distance

away. Now they’re on a roll and deserving of lots

of West London love.

Must try: Kettle Bird, a lightly soured dryhopped

ale.

Dundas and Sons Brewing, 400 Adelaide

St. North, London. Home to the one of the

world’s nicest brewery owners, whose sons

are actually too young to help the business,

Dundas and Sons is a

tiny place, across the

street from London

Police Headquarters.

The impressively

bearded barkeep’s acts

of kindness include

collecting hot weather

gear and making water available for Old East

Village folks. And Rob Dundas can brew. He

has a rotating array of four of his own recipes,

and taps of friends such as Sons of Kent,

Anderson, Forked River, and London Brewing.

Must try: The Way She Gose.

Forked River, 45 Pacific Court,

London. Tucked away in two

units of a London industrial park

off Clarke Road, Forked River

makes up for being hard to find

by brewing delicious beer. LCBO

patrons will know it by Capital

Blonde and Riptide Pale Ale,

two safe recipes that keep the

cash flowing. But the real magic


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

is at the brewery’s own bottle shop, where

creations such as Full City Coffee Porter

(made with Patrick’s Beans) and a rotation of

one-offs and seasonals use tricks such as red

wine barrel ageing.

Must try: Summers in Rangoon, a

sessionable IPA brewed with mangoes.

Herald Haus Brewing, 21 Marketplace,

Stratford. Remember print journalism?

The folks at Herald Haus sure do. They’ve

repurposed an 1890s newspaper office and

print shop into a go-to craft brewery. The

building once housed the Stratford Herald,

which carries on today as the Stratford

Beacon-Herald. Only

one beer pays homage to

newspapers — Dingman

Dark is a nod to the

original owner. They have

a steady core, featuring

a golden ale and a hopforward

American pale ale,

but have not piled on the

IPA bandwagon.

Must try: Perth County Conspiracy APA

Craft Beer

+

Artisan Cuisine

TAP ROOM · BEER SHOP · EVENTS · KITCHEN

27 ADELAIDE ST. SOUTH · CHATHAM ON

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FAMILY-FRIENDLY, FULLY-ACCESSIBLE RESTAURANT

and DESTINATION CRAFT BREWERY in BLYTH

40035 BLYTH RD., BLYTH, ON N0M 1H0 1-844-523-4724 WWW.COWBELLBREWING.COM


36 | September/October 2019

London Brewing,

521 Burbrook Place,

London. The region’s

only microbrewery set

up as a worker-owned

co-operative, London

Brewing makes bold

statements about local

ingredients, fair workplaces, and fine beer.

Many miss the quirky, smoky Ode to the

‘Wick, but beer fans can console themselves

with the likes of London Natural Lager

and Southwest Wheat. Frequent visits are

required to take in the seasonals, highlighted

by Neighbour Tart. It’s brewed with local

donated rhubarb each June.

Must try: Resolution Kettle Sour Series beers

Powerhouse Brewing, 100 Kellogg Lane,

London. Located in the former generating

station of an abandoned cereal factory,

family-owned Powerhouse Brewing is a key

part of the Old East Village resurgence.

Sure, we’re still waiting

for a Special K or Rice

Krispies beer, but the

cereal company has

no sense of humour

about such creativity.

We’re pleased to

be served the likes of

Homecoming IPA, the

brewery’s original beer, in the coolest brewery

building in London. For those who like to

pair beer and architecture, note that this

space was designed by Albert Kahn, aka “the

architect of Detroit.”

Must try: Buckley’s Irish Red

Shakespeare Brewing, 2178 Line 34 (aka

Highway 8), Shakespeare. Used to be you’d

head to this tiny hamlet 10 minutes east

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

of Stratford for its antique stores and allthings-British

shop. Now Shakespeare has

upped its game. Run by a mom-and-pop

team in a former school bus

garage, Shakespeare Brewing

has a compact bottle shop

and beverage room decor that

mimics your favourite uncle’s

living room. A rotating number

of beers are available in bottles,

with clever names inspired by

local lore and label artwork

inspired by the Bard. This truly

local brewery uses exclusively

Ontario-grown hops and barley

to make its beer. The online shop

ships via Canada Post and they also do growler

fills at the brewery.

Must try: Fryfogal Fox Lager. Named for a

local stagecoach stop, 4.5% ABV and 18 IBUs.

Toboggan Brewing, 585 Richmond St.,

London. The yin to the yang of

Forked River in terms of actually

finding the place, Toboggan has

a high profile spot along heavilytravelled

Richmond Street. It’s a

brewpub with a brewery in the

basement, literally below the

feet of diners, and extra capacity

offsite to feed cans of Lunatic

Fridge IPA into retailers. A

cute Beer and Gear shop makes

take home beer (and branded

wearables) a breeze post-dinner.

Must try: Blackfriars Bridge Vanilla Stout.

GEORGE MACKE is a craft beer explorer living in

London.w

willie’s café

630 Dundas Street, Old East Village.

@williescafe


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

September/October 2019 | 37

Wine

A Celebration of Ontario Wines

Twelve That Are Sure to Please

by GARY KILLOPS

Selecting wines for this issue was easy.

Limiting the number of wines to twelve

was difficult. I could easily have made

a list of fifty Ontario wines that I have

enjoyed over the past year. I am very thankful

to live in a wine region that is producing some

exciting and excellent world class wines. There

are a lot of wines and wineries to discover in

Ontario. It’s time to celebrate our wines!

While you don’t need a celebration to enjoy

sparkling wine, it’s always nice to have a few

bottles of bubbly on hand to pop for these

special occasions. Here are three budget

friendly Ontario sparkling wines to get the

party started.

Colio Estate Winery in Harrow produces

a couple of sparkling wines that are perfect

for any celebration or really any

occasion. Both are listed as off dry,

however they both offer a kiss of

sweetness, just enough to balance

the acidity.

Lily Sparkling Wine (LCBO

#418657, $17.95) — Riesling is the

only grape used in the sparkling

wine. The naturally crisp

acidity of this grape is perfect

for sparkling wine.

Loaded with lemon

citrus and green apple

notes this cheerful

bubbly is a crowd

pleaser.

Lily Sparkling Rosé (LCBO

#536565, $17.95) — A blend of

90% riesling and 10% cabernet

franc and light pink in colour.

Hints of freshly picked

strawberries lead the way. The

vibrant acidity leads the way to

a lingering finish. An excellent

value for a quality wine like this.

Pelee Island Secco (LCBO

#225946, $14.95) — A blend of 85%

pinot blanc, and 15% auxerrois.

Expect to taste a little more

sweetness in this sparkling wine. A

cornucopia of green apple, yellow

pear and peach flavours. Light,

fruity and cheerful.

After clinking glasses of bubbly

it’s time to move onto

some seriously good

Ontario red wines.

Coffin Ridge Back

From the Dead Red

(Vintages #260463,

$19.95) — Coffin Ridge Boutique

Winery is located in Grey County

near Georgian Bay. As a result

of the winery’s name it does get

a lot of attention at this time

of year. Often its wines appear

on lists of Halloween wine

recommendations.

A blend based on maréchal foch,

baco noir, cabernet sauvignon and

merlot, this full bodied dry red

wine is led by notes of black fruit,

fresh garden herbs with an earthy

undertone.

Hidden Bench Estate Organic

Pinot Noir (Vintages #274753,

$31.95) — Niagara’s Hidden

Bench winery produces some of

the best pinot noir in Ontario.

Consistently top quality

fermented juice. Bing cherry,

fresh garden herbs lead the way.

A really elegant and refined

wine that will please any pinot

lover.

Hidden Bench Estate Winery

was recently named the “Best


eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

Alton Farms

EST A TE WINERY

Sip

HAPPENS!

LAKE

HURON

7

SARNIA

21

WINE

TASTINGS

EVENTS

WINE &

CHOCOLATE

PAIRINGS

Grand

Bend

Forest

5547 Aberarder

21 Line

402

London

77 km

5547 Aberarder Line, Plympton-Wyoming

519-899-2479 • altonfarmsestatewinery.com

Winery in Ontario” at the National

Wine Awards of Canada.

Trius Red (Vintages #303800,

$24.95) — Niagara’s Trius Winery

has been producing this red

blend for over 25 years. A blend

of cabernet franc, merlot and

cabernet sauvignon. Black

current, black cherry, tobacco and

recently cut cedar notes fill the

glass. This is a superior

Ontario red wine that

always delivers.

CREW Cabernet

Franc 2016 (Vintages

#315945, $22.95) —

Some exciting times at CREW

(Colchester Ridge Estate Winery)

are happening. By the time this

article goes to press the new

tasting room and event facility

should be open to the public.

With kitchens on both the main

floor and upstairs, and patios

overlooking the vineyard, this will


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

be a destination spot to sip on a glass of wine

and share a charcuterie board.

Bernie Gorski, owner and wine maker at

CREW, has always delivered with his wines.

Ontario cabernet franc are some of the best in

the world. This one proves it.

Henry of Pelham Speck Family

Reserve Baco Noir (Vintages

#461699, $24.95) — No other

winery in Ontario produces a baco

noir like Henry of Pelham. They

have set the bar so high many

other wineries use this one to

bench mark their own baco. If

baco noir has never been your

red wine of choice, once you

have tasted this one you will

likely be converted.

Black berry, blueberry, and

black cherry. Very silky and

smooth on the finish.

Mastronardi Syrah 2016 (Vintages

#581223, $24.95) — Located in

Ontario’s Lake Erie North Shore

wine region, Mastronardi Estate

Winery has been in operation

since 2006. The vineyard is home

to some of the region’s oldest

vines at well over 25 years.

Ontario’s cold winters are

not good for syrah vines. But

if they survive the cold season

with little bud damage, the long

hot summers are perfect for

exceptional syrah wines.

Mastronardi’s syrah conveys

the summer heat. Black pepper and

spicy notes, dark fruit with a silky

finish.

Vineland Estates Reserve

Cabernet Sauvignon 2015

(Vintages #582056, $49.95) — 2015

was a warm vintage, perfect for

cabernet sauvignon to reach full

maturity and ripeness on the

vine. Vineland used an optical

sorter to select only the best

grapes for this wine. This is a

premium full-bodied Ontario

red wine that is appropriate for

special occasions. It is tasting

good right now so don’t cellar it

for too long. Open and enjoy!

Winemaking at Its Finest

Warm up to all the cozy occasions

this season with the new

Atmosphere Limited Release

Australian Whisky Barrel Shiraz

A perfect complement this holiday season!

New customers will receive

$25 off any purchased wine kit until Dec 31, 2019

Premium quality handcrafted wine

at an affordable price

150 Exeter Road, London 519-652-3998

somersetfinewines.com

OPEN TUES–FRI 10am–7pm & SAT 9am–4pm

Wining is Our Business

invites you

The Korpan Family

to visit Early Acres!

9494 Pioneer Line, Chatham

519-354-9070

info@earlyacresestatewinery.ca

www.earlyacresestatewinery.ca

Winery Retail Shop Hours

Thurs & Fri 11am–6pm • Sat 11am–5pm


Small Lot Award Winning Wines

We invite you to visit Oxley and taste our

classics (Auxerrois, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir

& Riesling) and our unique varietals:

Regent, Wowza & Ripper Red.

Open daily from 11am–6pm

www.oxleyestatewinery.com (519) 738-3264

533 County Rd. 50 E. Harrow, ON

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

Weather Rock Cabernet Franc

(LCBO #558809, $14.10) — This

has become my go-to red wine. An

affordable price and delivers quality.

Produced by Oxley Estate winery

in Lake Erie North Shore.

Dark Horse

Unapologetically

Sinful Red (LCBO

#493668, $14.95) —

Dark Horse Estate

Winery is located

in Grand Bend and

is one of several

wineries in Huron

County’s emerging

wine region. This

wine is an interesting

blend of baco noir, cabernet

sauvignon, and cabernet franc.

Layers of black and red fruits

with herbaceous undertone.

GARY KILLOPS is a CAPS Certified

Sommelier who loves to talk, taste, and write about wine.

He shares his tasting notes on EssexWineReview.com

Open daily year round 11am-5pm

Quality Craft Wines

Beachfront Picnics

SOMETHING

BIG

IS COMING!

Reminder:

Visitors Welcome

While Renovations

Are Underway!

Colchester Ridge Estate Winery

www.sprucewoodshores.com 519-738-9253

Enjoy Our Wines, Available at the LCBO

108 Essex County Road 50

Harrow ON

519-738-9800

@crewinery


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

September/October 2019 | 41

The BUZZ

Culinary Community Notes

New and Notable

London

We here at Eatdrink are moving ahead with an

expanded and updated Local Flavour Culinary

Guide (Volume 8) featuring the best of Southwest

Ontario. London remains the geographic hub in a

larger wheel that will include participants from the

counties of Chatham-Kent, Elgin, Huron, Middlesex,

Norfolk, Oxford, Perth, Sarnia-Lambton, and

Windsor-Essex. This is a natural evolution from

last year’s Volume 7, when we first opened up the

guide to businesses outside London. We’re happy

to report that the 30,000 copies we printed and

circulated last year were the right amount. We

distributed them to essential, targeted locations

like tourism offices, the airport, farmers’ markets,

and select restaurants, craft breweries, shops

and cultural hot spots. This year we are excited

to invite all of our southwestern Ontario partners

to take part in Local Flavour. Participants must

be independent businesses committed to offering

exceptional local culinary products, services, and

experiences. Please let us know if you would like to

participate in this guide. We are looking at a launch

late in October.

Congratulations to the iconic Arva Flour Mill,

celebrating its 200th anniversary. Wow! Eatdrink

will pay more attention to this remarkable

achievement in our next issue, and finding out more

about the new Mill House Bakery. The historic

mill is located in Arva, just north of London, and

supplies a variety of flours to some of our region’s

best bakeries and restaurants. 2042 Elgin (off

Richmond St. N), 519-660-0199, arvaflourmill.com

An EPIC Wine Region

that shares latitude,

not attitude.

We pride our winery experiences

as being laid back and fun. Enjoy

our scenic wine route by taking

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you’re feeling adventurous, pedal

your way around the shores.

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Find out more at

epicwineries.com

#WINERYQG | visitwindsoressex.com


42 | September/October 2019

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

It’s the return of the 6th annual Heeman’s Food

Trucks of the Farm Event and this year they will be

hosting 13 trucks. It all goes down over two days

in the parking lot in front of Heeman’s greenhouse

September 7 and 8. The trucks will be serving up

deliciousness from 10am–3pm. This year marks

the return of some fan favourites, along with some

trucks appearing at the event for the first time. 20422

Nissouri Rd., Thorndale, 519-461-1416, heemans.ca

The majority of London’s food trucks are available

for catering, and a few operate year-round, such

Traditional, Real Food.

Real Good!

Try our world famous Goulash Soup, Cabbage Rolls,

Schnitzel, Chicken Paprikash, a Combination Platter, or

many other mouthwatering Hungarian dishes.

519-652-9696

aranka.ca

aranka.csarda arankacsarda

7447 Longwoods Road, London ON

Our beautiful country setting is on Longwoods, the continuation of

Wharncliffe Road, just outside Lambeth

More than just a Coffee Shop!

Gelato

Breakfast Items

Soups & Light Lunches

Homemade

Baking

INCLUDING

Gluten-free

& Keto

Homemade Gelato

Pour Over Coffee Bar Open Daily 8am–9pm

creambeanerycafe.com

as Goodah, The Donut Diva, My Big Fat Food

Truck, and Big Daddy Bacon. There is a little

something for everyone, including Gourmet Grilled

Cheese, Mini Donuts with over 30 sugary flavours,

Portuguese Fusion, All Things Bacon, Tacos, Mac

and Cheese, Shawarma (Halal), Poutine, Perogies,

and Ice Cream. A lot of trucks have vegetarian and

vegan options. A pilot Food Truck Night has been

launched at the Western Fair Farmers Market lot

on Wednesdays from 4:30 to 8:30 p.m. The Food

Truck Association is working with a local producer

to create a show about food trucks for the Rogers

Network. The show should be going into preproduction

soon. facebook.com/londonfoodtrucks/

This year’s VegFest — London’s annual “plantbased

party” — takes place Saturday, November 9,

10am–6pm, at the Metroland Media Agriplex, Western

Fair District. A variety of vendors will be offering

food and drink samples, and all kinds of support

for a plant-based lifestyle. vegfestlondon.com

Jill’s Table is celebrating 20 years as London’s premier

food and kitchenware destination. In 1999, Jill Wilcox

opened Jill’s Table in a small corner of the newly

rebuilt Covent Garden Market. Two years later, she

relocated to her present location, bringing in superior

products from around the world, showcasing local

food artisans, providing in-store demonstrations, and

servicing home cooks and professional chefs with

speciality food items, cookware, bakeware, and kitchen

utensils. Jill’s Table is also a gift-giving destination

that promotes and sells Canadian handmade products

and creates exceptional gift baskets.

Since 2009, Jill has been hosting food and wine

tours to France, Italy and Portugal, and in the near

future will be adding tours to Ireland and Spain.

In 2012, Jill started the Jill Wilcox Foundation as

a way of giving back to the local community with

100% of all funds raised going to help women and

children in food-related initiatives.

Over the years, Jill has been recognized for her

Quality Coffee

New 2nd Location!

22469 Adelaide Rd, Mt Brydges

226-490-0301

825 Southdale Rd W, London

519-652-1607

PATIO

OPEN!


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

leadership in business, with awards including the

YMCA Women of Excellence, London Chamber of

Commerce Business Achievement Award and Canadian

Gift Association Retailer of the Year. This fall,

Jill is launching her 24th year of cooking classes,

with a full lineup of demonstration and hands-on

classes headed by master chef Ran Ai. Jill’s Table

invites you to join their 20th anniversary celebrations

on October 2, 3–7 pm. 115 King St. jillstable.ca

Congratulations to Downtown London’s David’s

Bistro and Reverie Restaurant, who are both listed

in the recently released 2019–20 edition of Anne

Hardy’s Where to Eat in Canada. This annual guide,

published by Oberon Press and now in its 48th

year, offers an independent review of some 500

restaurants in more than 200 cities, towns and

villages across the country.

Thursday nights are now a Jazz Night at Michael’s

On The Thames, with a different jazz ensemble

featured each week. Join Michael’s for a glass of

wine, appetizers or dinner BUT be sure to join them

for the jazz on Thursdays! 1 York St, London, 519-

672-0111, michaelsonthethames.com

Chef Josh Sawyer and Elaine Sawyer’s Wich is

Wich has relocated to Wellington St., south of

“a gastronomical landmark for over 23 years”

Fall Food Fest

Saturday, September 28 10am–1pm

Celebrate the harvest season at this annual

family-friendly event. There will be fun

fall-themed games, a chance to judge and

taste our Heritage Grain Cooking Competition,

and a free cooking workshop

upstairs in the market

featuring Julie

Kortekaas from

Rebel Remedy

Health Bar.

Regenerate has also challenged some local

vendors to try baking using heritage grains.

Expect many different locally inspired goodies!

Our 20th Anniversary Celebration!

Saturday, October 19 10am–2pm

Join us upstairs on the Mezzanine as we

celebrate 20 years with a BIG thank you to our

loyal customers! The day will be filled with

delicious foods from all of our Market vendors,

short speeches, a special announcement, live

entertainment, kids activities and special

giveaways. Come by and celebrate with us!

Family Pumpkin Patch

Saturday, October 26 10am–1pm

Fun for the kids including crafts, face

painting, bouncy castle, seasonal

treats, entertainment, and more.

Kids — don’t forget to dress up in

your Halloween costumes!

Chef-driven Farm-to-Table Cuisine

Dietary Needs Accommodated

Lunch Mon–Fri

Ample Free Dinner Parking Mon–Sat

Available for Private Parties

Bistro & Catering

46 Blackfriars Street, London | 519-667-4930

blackfriarsbistro.com

MARKET HOURS

Mon–Fri 8am–7pm

Saturday 8am–6pm

Sunday 11am–4pm

Mezzanine & Restaurant Hours Differ


“Reasonably priced, fresh, well-executed

Ethiopian cuisine ...” — Bryan Lavery, Eatdrink

• FAMILY FRIENDLY

• Vegetarian &

Vegan Options

• Takeout

• Catering

ADDIS ABABA Restaurant

Tuesday–Saturday 11am–10pm by reservation

Closed Sunday & Monday

465 Dundas Street 519 433-4222

www.tgsaddisababarestaurant.com

Beautiful

Canopied Patio

NOW OPEN!

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

Oxford (once Willie’s Café), serving the same great

sandwiches (global flavours, exotic ingredients, and

textural contrasts). Weekend brunch is served both

days, and dinners Tuesday–Saturday. They also

offer catering, grab-and-go, and a patio for dining.

731 Wellington St., 519-860-9424, wichiswich.ca

The Forest City Film Festival (FCFF) will run October

23–27 in Downtown London. Screenings will take

place at Wolf Performance Hall, Fanshawe Good

Foundation Theatre, Imagine Cinemas, and Museum

London. On September 12, the 2019 Season Launch

will announce all the films, film personalities, and

events coming to FCFF. This is a free celebration at

Joe Kool’s, followed by Open Air Cinema at Dundas

Place, where there will be a free screening of “The

Breakfast Club” and London’s favourite food trucks.

Forest City 48, a 48-hour filmmaking challenge

open to everyone interested in filmmaking, will run

October 18–20. The inaugural Forest City Youth

Film Festival, a day of seminars for young aspiring

filmmakers, and screenings of the best short films

created by Southwestern Ontario high school

students, takes place Oct. 23. On Oct. 24, Lerners

Opening Night, a gala event, will be followed by the

opening night film (TBA) and an audience after party.

Screenings and industry sessions will be held

October 25–27. The Networking and Microkeynote

Party, for local businesses and creatives in the film

industry hosted by FCFF and London Economic

Development Corporation (LEDC), happens Oct. 25.

The FCFF PitchFest is on Oct. 26. Pitchfest winners

can win up to $10,000 in prizes. On Oct. 27, the Closing

Night film (TBA) will be followed by an Awards

Celebration, with winners from all categories and

competitions announced. forestcityfilmfestival.ca

Origins Co, a grab-and-go coffee shop, relocated

from Ann Street to King and Talbot Streets (in the

space previously occupied by Fire Roasted Coffee).

Origins serves fresh juices, smoothies and smoothie

bowls, as well as baked goods with gluten-free

options. Using ingredients that are ethically

harvested, non-GMO, and organic where possible,

it also offers teas, espresso, and bulletproof coffee.

105 King Street, 519-601-5855, originsco.com

Blackfriars Bistro & Catering is now also open

on Mondays for lunch and dinner. Betty Heydon’s

locally-acclaimed farm-to-table bistro continues

to wow all age groups and recently celebrated its

23rd birthday. Chefs prepare innovative, seasonal

blackboard specials with cutting-edge menus that

respect tradition. Closed Sundays, 46 Blackfriars

St., 519-667-4930, blackfriarsbistro.com

Eduard Nagy and Anita Tasonyi’s landmark

Budapest Restaurant features a new, elevated


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

patio with a stunning retractable canopy. Signature

dishes include a variety of superb schnitzels,

chicken paprikash, goulash, and Hungarian

cabbage rolls with a modern flair. 348 Dundas

Street, 519-439-3431, budapestrestaurant.com

Olha and Anatolii Prytkova’s charming Happiness

Coffee and Desserts celebrated its first anniversary.

The family-owned business bakes all the Europeanstyle

desserts from scratch, including high-quality

specialty cakes, cupcakes, doughnuts, and

chocolates. 430 Wellington St., 204-293-9530.

Willie’s Café continues to grow and thrive in the

London Food Incubator at 630 Dundas St. Ian

Kennard has expanded the seating with more tables,

comfy chairs and a new cozy dining area. There

is inexpensive municipal parking off Queens Ave.,

and customers are welcome to use the entrance

accessible from the parking lot. Willie’s continues

to provide catering services with a focus on office/

corporate lunches. williescafeandcatering.com

Wanting to create “the healthiest most digestible

bread possible,” owner of The Whole Grain

Hearth Bakery artisan baker Richard Placzek has

committed to only using natural sourdough yeast in

his breads and freshly milling his own flours from

organic grains. Producing a variety of beautifully

handcrafted breads and enticing pastries such as

Red Fife Butter Tarts and gluten-free Spelt Pop

Tarts, Placzek’s offerings are available at various

locations, including Covent Garden Farmers’

Market and Remark, as well as at the bakery itself

on Fridays 11–5 and Saturdays 10–3. 958 Leathorne

St., Unit #3, 519-719-7355, thewholegrainhearth.ca

Regenerate Heritage Grain Weekend, featuring a

Rotational Grain Eating Dinner hosted by Fanshawe

College and a 2-day Bread Camp, is back and has

expanded to include new grain-focused events.

Regenerate has partnered with Fall Food Fest at

Covent Garden Market for a day of community-

September/October 2019 | 45

building activities to build a strong narrative around

five components of grain: Bread, Beer, Distilling,

Pasta and Pizza. The regional collaboration weekend

will highlight all these areas to engage consumers,

chefs and farmers. September 17, 28 & 29. cktable.ca/

regenerate-event-weekend-2019/

Chef’s Table at the downtown campus of Fanshawe

College is both a restaurant and a café. Menus

showcase local suppliers and farmers, with

staff creating many items such as cured meats

and preserves. The Chef’s Table gives students

LUNCH Wed to Fri 11:30–2:30

DINNER from 5pm daily

432 Richmond Street

at Carling • London

ALWAYS

a 3-course prix fixe

menu option

www.davidsbistro.ca

C’Angelina

Catering

Corporate & Family BBQs

Prepared Foods & Fresh Meats

Catering that meats your needs.

426 Third Street, London

519-204-8189

c-angelina@rogers.com


Make HAPPINESS

a part of your day.











SUNDAY BRUNCH

11am−2pm

Intimate

Outdoor

Courtyard

Open 7 Days a Week

Mon/Tues 11:30-10, Wed/Thurs 11:30-11, Fri/Sat 11:30-12, Sun 11-10

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

hands-on training and an opportunity to gain

practical experience. There is an open kitchen,

wood, exposed brick, and marble countertops, with

a relaxed and accessible ambiance. The restaurant

is open weekdays. Lunch: 11 am–2 pm; Dinner: 5

pm–8 pm. 130 Dundas Street, 519-452-4433.

Aranka Csárda is a family-run Hungarian

restaurant on Longwoods Road beside Miller Berry

Farms just outside of Lambeth. The hospitable

owners take pride in what they do and serve only

authentic and quality food, with daily specials such

as traditional schnitzel, chicken paprikash, and

cabbage rolls. 7447 Longwoods Road, London, 519-

652-9696, aranka.ca

PC Cooking Schools at Superstore offer one-hour

weekly daytime “What’s for Dinner?” classes on

Thursdays: Oxford and Gammage 12:30-1:30 pm;

Oxford and Hyde Park Road 1–2 pm. Both locations

offer a schedule of evening classes that run 6:30–

8:30 pm. pccookingschool.ca

Joan Hepburn of award-winning Joanie’s Pastries

will be opening her storefront in early September in

Northridge Plaza (1444 Glenora Drive). This is the

first gluten-free bakery in London to be certified by

the Celiac Society. If you haven’t tried her glutenfree

tarts, cinnamon buns or cookies, you are

missing out! 519-281-9605, joaniespastries.com

Stratford

The stunning new Braai House recently opened

above Stratford’s iconic Keystone Alley. The menu,

created by executive chef and owner Anthony

Jordaan, highlights the amazing flavours that come

off a South African-style braai, a wood-fired BBQ/

grill. The menu is meant to bring friends and family

together to enjoy great food and atmosphere. 34

Brunswick St, 519-271-5647, braaihouse.ca

The Mill Stone Restaurant & Bar focuses on “global

tacos & tapas,” an assortment of small plates

inspired by assorted cuisines, a large variety of

authentic Mexican tacos, and internationallyinspired

creations such as curries and confits

(served on fresh handmade tortillas). In addition to

those all-day menus, there are sandwiches during

lunch and a pre-theatre prix fixe for dinner. Late

Night Lao is still going strong Saturdays 10 pm–2

am. An updated menu recently launched, with new

delicious snacks to explore. The same menu is also

on offer during “MexiLao” Sunday lunch alongside

the taco menu. Looking ahead to the off-season,

there will be a couple of events focusing on food

and music, featuring collaborations with other

chefs from around town and beyond. 30 Ontario

Street, Stratford, 519-273-5886, millstone.ca


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

Downton Abbey High Tea at Revival House: Are

you ready to “Spill the Tea” and talk ALL about the

amazing Downton Abbey Movie? Come in your best

Downton Abbey fashion and enjoy tea and tiers

at Revival House. Sunday, September 29, 2019, 12

noon–2 pm. $45/person. revival.house

Check out The Red Lion Room, Stratford’s new

performance and entertainment venue. Located

in the Windsor Hotel, the stated aim is inviting:

“Simple understandable food; support for the craft

beer movement; delicious value vino; a quiet place

to relax (even on Mondays). 23 Albert Street, 226-

766-9818, redlionroom.ca

The Slow Food Perth County Sunday Market runs

from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. at Market Square. You’ll find

local produce, bread, soups, sweets, crafty things,

lacto-fermented foods, cheese, grass-fed meats,

and garden seeds. slowfoodperthcounty.ca

Stratford Farmers’ Market, a year-round market

operating since 1855, offers fresh produce, crafts,

meat, and cheese at Stratford Rotary Complex-

Agriplex, 353 McCarthy Rd, Saturdays 7 a.m.–12

noon. 519-271-5130. stratfordfairgrounds.ca

The self-guided Savour Stratford Chocolate Trail

introduces you to world-famous confectioners

and bakers. Sample decadent treats and meet the

makers. Twenty-eight delicious treats will tempt

you. visitstratford.ca/stratford-chocolate-trail

Stratford Symphony Orchestra’s 15th Anniversary

Season opens October 5 with the wonderful

concert Once Upon a Time, with fairy tale-inspired

musical compositions from the ages, narrated

by Stephen Russell from the Stratford Festival

Acting Company. The SSO’s season opener will

also feature sopranos Katy Clark and Leanne

Kaufman from the Canadian Opera Company.

stratfordsymphonyorchestra.ca

Around Our Region

Chef Rob Lampman, formerly of The Kettle Creek

Inn, and his partner Terrie Collard have created the

welcoming Two Forks in Port Stanley. A large outdoor

patio and chef’s garden enhance the vibe. Small plates,

designed for sharing, are made from scratch with local

ingredients. You’ll find freshly shucked live oysters

right at the bar, local wine on tap, craft beer flights,

and handcrafted cocktails. 295 Bridge Street, Port

Stanley, 226-658-4887, fb.com/twoforks295

Solo on Main is a family-run restaurant with Chef

Lauren Van Dixhoorn at the helm. In seasonable

weather the smartly appointed patio and inviting

front porch offer alfresco seating and great Port

views. The cooking is refined and the presentation

Gift Cards

Available

FINE FOOD FOR FINE PEOPLE

PRIVATE DINING ROOM AVAILABLE

G R A C E R E S T A U R A N T

farm-to-table fine dining downtown

Certificate of Excellence

519-652-7659 • HWY 401 & 4 • pastosgrill.com


Buy Less. Choose Well.

Assorted Chef’s

Knife Rolls

High quality, Canadian made

leather goods and chef accessories

159 King St. South, Unit 2, St. Marys

or order online

haversackleather.ca

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

modern and thoughtful. 187 Main Street, Port

Stanley, soloportstanley.com

The Vedovas opened The Kettle Creek Inn in 1983,

after purchasing and renovating the building, and

the business is now one of Ontario’s Finest Inns.

Jean, along with her sons Troy and Dean, operate

this ten-room, five-suite facility that features a

charming restaurant, gazebo and sidewalk patio.

216 Joseph Street, Port Stanley, 519-782-3388

Lola’s Lounge is a former retro diner that has been

converted into one of Sarnia’s local hot spots. Tania

Auger, the talented owner, has put her stamp on

almost every facet of the restaurant, especially

the food. Auger sources local ingredients in season

and serves generous portions. Steaks, fresh fish

— from Purdy’s of course — and big martinis. 110

Christina Street South, Sarnia, 519-336-8088

Throughout the year Jane Magri’s Wildflowers

Farm offers seasonally-inspired events to create

a sacred space for community to gather, nourish,

and celebrate all that Elgin County has to offer. The

barn offers one-of-a-kind experiences and can be

booked for private functions, from family dinners

to celebrations. Check out the Fall Harvest Dinner

on Saturday, Sept 14, 5–9 pm, $60 + HST, with live

I ENJOY

WONDERFUL

COFFEE WHILE

LISTENING

TO BUSKERS.

LOVE THIS PLACE.

THEMARKETWFD.COM

TERA D.

GOOGLE REVIEW


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

music by Tuerto Loco. 42338 Fruit Ridge Line, St

Thomas, 226-926-6432, wildflowers.farm/events

Brenda Daniel of From the Meadow has been

farming since 1978. She and her husband Dave,

along with their daughter Heather, grow, harvest

and manufacture a variety of natural herb products

on their five-acre plot. They call their MyPick®

(local farmer verified) business an “adventure”

and are passionate about creating revitalizing and

relaxing healing creams, scrubs, shampoos, soaps,

and more with their own culinary herbs and other

natural ingredients. Their products are available

at the “Farmacy” at the farm in Elgin County,

and at the Market at Western Fair. 3881 Avon Dr.,

Harrietsville, 519-269-3961, fromthemeadow.com

Affinage 101 at Gunn’s Hill Artisan Cheese: Wash

wheels of cheese, learn about aging, and finish by

creating a few fondues for your group, with the

cheesemaker Shep Ysselstein. September 7 and

October 5. 445172 Gunn’s Hill Road, Woodstock,

519-424-4024, gunnshillcheese.ca

SixThirtyNine opened its doors in 2005, cultivated

by Pauline Bucek and Chef Eric Boyar. The modern

dining space provides a comfortable atmosphere.

They focus on attentive service and local,

terroir-driven Canadian cuisine. 639 Peel Street,

Woodstock, 519-536-9602, sixthirtynine.com

IRONWORKS kitchen is downtown Woodstock’s

newest hotspot (see the article on page 18 of this

issue). Lunch and dinner menus feature elevated

comfort food, including the signature “Homer

Brown Burger.” 529 Dundas Street, Woodstock, 519-

290-0926, ironworkskitchen.ca

Brewed Exploration at Upper Thames Brewing Co.:

Calling all hop heads, this is the experience for you.

Step behind the bar to learn about brewing from

grain to glass, and even bottle your own beer on

Sept 21. upperthamesbrewing.ca

Enjoy a warm and inviting atmosphere with

counter-service light pub fare at Brickhouse

Brewpub. Twenty-four taps of Ontario craft beer.

Half are Upper Thames brews. Onsite brewing and

retail. 190 Fairway Road, Woodstock, 519-421-2218,

upperthamesbrewing.ca/brewpub.

Elio Caporicci’s Early Bird Coffee is Woodstock’s

first coffee roastery and café. Established in 2018,

the company wholesales throughout the city and

has an onsite café serving specialty and standard

coffees, along with delicious baked goods. The café

is small and homey and a great spot to grab your

morning cup or to meet up and hang out for a while.

Premium coffee from select growing regions with

an emphasis on sustainability is at the forefront

Light Alfredo

Authentic Tomato

Choose your favourites!

580 Adelaide St N, London

519-672-7827

Quality

Convenient

Meals

Blush

Meat Sauce

Family Dinner for 4 only $ 15 .99

Fresh Pasta (600g) & Store-made Sauce (16oz)

& Fresh Bread or Buns

Takes minutes to prepare or have us cook it for $ 21 .00

MON–FRI 9:30am–7pm • SAT 9:30am–5pm • SUN 11am–5pm

Full menu available at marshallspastacatering.ca

FLIGHTS & BITES

HALF PRICE Sharing Plates & Oysters

Tuesday–Friday from 3:30–5:30pm

SUNDAY INDUSTRY NIGHTS

20% OFF!

TUES–SAT Lunch & Dinner 11:30am to Close

SUNDAY Brunch 11am & Dinner

449 Wharncliffe Road South

519.914.2699


where art is

Hey, Cupcake! a piece of cake

The ORIGINAL

LONDON CAKERY &

GOURMET CUPCAKE

BAKERY

ASK US Custom Bakery • Walk-In Orders Available

ABOUT OUR

“RANDOM

ACTS OF

SWEETNESS!”

CAMPAIGN

www.heycupcake.ca

275 Wharncliffe Rd. North

519-433-CAKE (2253)

STORE HOURS: Mon–Fri 11–7

Saturday 10–5 • Sunday 11–4

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

of the business. Roasting top quality beans weekly

ensures that the coffee is always fresh and at its

best. earlybird.ca

The Wine Cellar & Cheese Shop: Create your own

quality wines by batch, at the shop. Find a wide

variety of exciting local artisan and imported

cheese. Canadian-made jellies, compotes and

gourmet crackers are available. 118 Thames St. S.,

Ingersoll, 519-854-5760, winecellaringersoll.com

Handcraft a dozen gourmet truffles at Truffle Camp

alongside Cindy Walker of Chocolatea. Learn how

to use flavours from Southwestern Ontario to create

a selection of delectable ganache as you step into

the role of a chocolatier. $75.00 per person + HST.

Chocolatea, 38 King Street East, Ingersoll, 519-495-

6020, chocolatea.ca/product/truffle-camp

The bounty and beauty of autumn is on full display

at Hessenland Inn & Vineyard. Along with a

delicious menu offered over Thanksgiving weekend,

the Inn and their boutique vineyard, Schatz Winery,

will be rolling out their 4th Annual Long Table

Dinner on October 5. Enjoy Cocktail Hour with local

libations and hors d’oeuvres in the vineyard, and a

5-course dinner with wine accompaniments in the

Garden Room, including Schatz Winery’s inaugural


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

vintages. On November 2, German tradition will

be celebrated once again at Novemberfest — A

Tribute to Ernst L. Ihrig (Dinner, Dance & Parkinson

Fundraiser). hessenland.com

The 1909 Culinary Academy is Canada’s first

chef training facility with a focus on agriculture

and the myriad of techniques used to cultivate

the food destined for your chef-inspired menu.

The schoolhouse presents a lesson in community

heritage stewardship. Inside original details

are everywhere, and include the blackboards,

decorative tin ceiling, lighting fixtures, trim, doors,

wainscoting, hardwood floors, and original dual

entry foyer. Find out more about owner/executive

chef, Murray Zehr, and the restaurant and training

opportunities available through the Academy. 5183

Trussler Road, Ayr, the1909culinaryacademy.ca

Adventure Farms in Full Swing: Come September

Snyder’s Family Farm and Leaping Deer Adventure

Farm are slinging loads of fall fun, from corn mazes

to farm animals, and loads of tasty fall treats.

snydersfamilyfarm.com; leapingdeer.com

McCully’s Fall Harvest Festival: Weekends in

October enjoy wagon rides, a corn maze, pumpkin

catapult and more. mccullys.ca

Have you visited Jordi Carr and Natalie Crittenden’s

Harris Electric Eatery in St. Marys? This new hot

spot features the casual charm of a modern pub

in a heritage setting, with a creative, chef-driven

regional dining experience. 159 Queen St. E., St.

Marys, harriselectriceatery.com

The Pristine Olive from London is thrilled to be

supplying the newly opened Mindful Market

and Eco Hub in Blenheim, ON with a fresh supply

of quality extra virgin olive oils and balsamic

vinegars. The Mindful Market is a specialty food

store carrying local/regional foods and eco

products. fb.com/MindfulonTalbot/

Railway City Brewing in St. Thomas is introducing

Barrel Aged Honey Elixir. They’ve whisky barrelaged

their classic Honey Elixir to a hearty 7.2%

ABV, available in 750ml bottles. Double Dead

Elephant is back, and Train Reaction, a sea salt and

lime Mexican lager, is a perfect end-of-summer

quencher. Elgin Harvest is coming Fridays (4–8pm)

with handcrafted, wood-fired pizza. On Saturdays

(2–8pm), The Tipsy Pig comes in with their classic

smokehouse BBQ. It’s Game Night on Tuesdays

and Beer Cocktail Night happens Thursdays.

Enjoy a variety of handcrafted cocktails made with

premium liquor and Railway City’s most beloved

beers. Live music on Saturday evenings. See the

website for ticket info. railwaycitybrewing.com

Modern Skincare Made with Love

The Forest City’s

all-natural small-batch

skincare company

Locally Handcrafted Curated Boutique

incense, home decor, DIY supplies,

jewellery, crystals, tarot cards, eco-friendly

items and so much more ...

111 Mount Pleasant Ave., London

Monday–Friday: 10AM – 6PM

Saturday & Sunday: 10AM – 4PM

+1 519 630 5305

info@purdynatural.ca

purdynatural.ca

Boho Bazaar Night Market

Community is our passion. We support

and sell local, and create events where

everyone can gather and grow together.

Stay updated on events @purdynatural

@bohobazaarnightmarket


eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

Alton Farms Estate Winery is hosting its Annual

Grape Stomp Saturday, September 28. Festivities

begin at 12 pm with the first stomp starting at 2 pm.

There will be competitive stomps and kids stomps,

so bring your family and friends! Time trials will

determine the most productive stomper, measured

by the volume of juice produced. Stomping fee

is $5 per entry, with all proceeds in support of

Bluewater Centre for Raptor Rehabilitation.

(Raptors are magnificent birds, plus they help

keep grape-eating bird populations in control!)

Hot dogs and hamburgers will be available for

purchase with a portion of the proceeds donated.

altonfarmsestatewinery.com

We want your BUZZ!

481 Richmond Street

garlicsoflondon.com

519-432-4092

Far Out ...

but we like it that way!

Do you have culinary news or upcoming events

that you’d like us to share?

Every issue, Eatdrink reaches more than

50,000 readers across Southwestern Ontario

in print, and thousands more online.

Get in touch with us at editor@eatdrink.ca

Submission deadline for the next issue: October 5

Come for the planes and

fall in love with the food!

Enjoy our Patio

overlooking the

airport runway!

Gift

Certificates

for all of your

gift giving

needs

MON & TUES: Lunch 11–3

WED, THURS & FRI: Lunch 11–5; Dinner 5–9

Weekends: Breakfast 9–12, Lunch 12–3, Dinner 5–9

Blair Blvd

London

International

Airport

Crumlin Rd

Oxford St

519-455-9005

katanakafe.ca

2530 Blair Blvd, London

Diamond Flight Centre


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

September/October 2019 | 53

Theatre

Which London Life?

This London Life, at the Grand Theatre

By JANE ANTONIAK

Which Thames River? And for

that matter, which Grand

Theatre? The confusion between

“our” London and “the other”

London is the theme of a new play opening

this fall at Grand Theatre, London, Ontario.

Written and directed by Morris Panych, the

concept has been in the works since 2017.

“I love the notion of connecting London,

England and London, Ontario,” says Panych.

He lived in London, England for two years,

and he has a connection to our London via

Dennis Garnhum, artistic director of the

the story of a man who shows up in London,

Ontario thinking he is in London, England.

He is confused because he hears familiar place

names, such as Covent Garden Market and

Thames River, yet he cannot comprehend that

he is not in England.

The cast includes a ten-year-old narrator,

Ryan Shaw of Petrolia. He was discovered

during an audition call in Toronto. “You don’t

often get to see a person of that age take on

such a major role,” says Panych. “I couldn’t

believe how bright he was. He understood

the humour and nuances of the show. He

Grand Theatre. Garnhum grew up in our

London and he set up several opportunities

for Panych to get to know our city, including

tours, informal focus groups and visits with

Tourism London.

“Aside from all of the names and

similarities, I think it’s funny that famous

places you have heard about your whole life

had a parallel in London, Ontario and when

you go there they are not the same. I found

that sweet. I wanted to personalize London,

Ontario as a place. I always thought it must

be weird to be from a place that is named

after a place that is so much better known,”

says Panych.

This London Life is a comedy and at times

farcical. It’s a tale of mistaken location, telling

Morris Panych (left), writer and director of This London

Life, coming to London’s Grand Theatre, and (above right)

Ryan Shaw, narrator. Photos by Mallory Brown

really got it and it wasn’t like he was coached

by his parents. He connected with the

material so well.”

Beyond the humour, the play also hopes to

touch on a discovery of what it is like to live in

the shadow of something else. Panych hopes

to reflect a London, Ontario that has its own

personality. “We are all living in the shadow of

something in this county — the shadow of the

U.S., of Britain — [some places] in Canada are

named after other famous places. However,

second time around gives us opportunity and

freshness. We can create our own new thing.


54 | September/October 2019

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

A hilarious celebration of our beloved city —

the “other” London.

THIS

LONDONLIFE

WORLD PREMIERE

October 15 to November 2

Spriet Stage

THIS LONDON LIFE by Morris Panych

grandtheatre.com

box office 519.672.8800

SE A SON

SPONSOR

T IT LE

SPONSOR

DEVELOPMENT

PARTNER


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

That’s what’s great about Canada,” he says.

This London Life is part of the COMPASS

New Play Development program. With

funding provided by Tourism London and

Carlyle Peterson LLP, COMPASS is dedicated

to creating and premiering new work at the

Grand, according to Garnhum. He says it

is part of the

Grand’s strategy

to commission,

write, produce,

and premiere

original plays that

are relevant to

local, provincial

and national

locations. As

well, the plan is

to share plays such as This London Life with

theatres and stages around the world.

“A major thread throughout my career has

been a focus on developing new work. This

season we are staging new works, such as This

London Life, which allow us to reflect our city,

and its people — to show who we are and who

we want to be,” says Garnhum.

Panych has his home base in Toronto, which

is where he workshopped the play before

bringing it to London and sharing it with

selected members and friends of the Grand

Theatre. Panych has a long and successful

history of writing, creating and directing

plays across Canada, including productions

at the Stratford Festival. He is a recipient

of a Governor General’s award. He is also

an award-winning actor on stage and TV,

including roles on The X-Files.

Currently writing a digital series for

the CBC, Panych has also been actively

developing a new production — Frankenstein

Revived — with David Coulter since 2016 for

Stratford. “I am delighted to welcome Morris

back to Stratford as a director,” says Antoni

Cimolino, Artistic Director. “His work with

both movement- and text-based pieces is truly

inspiring.” Frankenstein Revived will be on

stage in 2020 at the Stratford Festival’s newly

renovated Tom Patterson Theatre Centre.

This London Life previews October 15–17, opens on the

Spriet Stage October 18, and runs until November 2.

JANE ANTONIAK is a regular contributor to Eatdrink.

She is also Manager, Communications & Media Relations,

at King’s University College in London.

FOREST

CITY

FILM

FESTIVAL

forestcityfilmfest.ca

#fcff2019

#fcff2019

Oct. 23-27, 2019

Downtown London

See What’s On

IMPROV

NIGHT2 019

Join us for Holiday Improv

featuring seasoned Second City

Improv specialists & enjoy

a night of laughter!

• Saturday November 30 at 8pm

• $30 per Ticket (plus HST/Fees)

• Doors Open 7pm, Show 8pm

Reserve Tickets

519-782-4353 www.psft.ca

PortStanley

FestivalTheatre


56 | September/October 2019

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

Books

Wine Crime

In Vino Duplicitas

The Rise and Fall of a Wine Forger Extraordinaire

by Peter Hellman

Review by DARIN COOK

To fool a wine connoisseur with a

fraudulent bottle, a forger would

need to know, in equal measures,

wines that were real and fake.

Rudy Kurniawan, a 20-something Indonesian

immigrant living in Los Angeles, had the

wicked combination of a discerning palate

for the authentic stuff, and a criminal mind

capable of passing off the fake. Like a musician

with perfect pitch, he was described as having

“virtuoso nostrils” and had a taste for wine

that could match few others. His tastes were

so good they eventually seemed too good to

be true. With an author’s luck, Peter Hellman

happened to be at a wine auction which led

him down a journalistic path into the world of

counterfeit wine. Hellman’s In Vino Duplicitas:

The Rise and Fall of a Wine Forger Extraordinaire

(The Experiment, 2017) profiles this infamous

wine forger, the victims he duped along the

way, and the scar he swathed across the wine

industry.

After bursting onto the scene of wine

auctions in 2002, Kurniawan convinced

everyone he was a top-notch aficionado. He

brought the world’s best wines to dinner

parties and

wine tastings.

He charmingly

endeared

himself to the

most influential

characters at

wine auctions,

high-end

restaurants,

and

vineyards.

Not only was he an

expert taster, but also a shopaholic,

spending millions of dollars on cases of wine,

owning several thousands of bottles at any

one time in his revolving inventory of real and

forged wines. He did all of this with the skill

of an extraordinary con man. But when one

vintner came face-to-face with an obvious fake

from his own winery, Kurniawan’s unravelling

began.

In 2008, 22 bottles of red Burgundy from

Kurniawan’s collection were pulled from a

New York auction because the dates on the

bottles were 37 years prior to when the wine

was known to be produced. With his

reputation being tarnished by some

of the best collectors in the business,

his sales plummeted; even so, he could

not stop himself from continuing

to buy and his credit card debt

racked up. Suspicions rose further as

Kurniawan’s supply seemed limitless.

Where was he getting it all? Collectors

at auctions started to become more

cautious in spending their fortunes

on lots of wine that might or might

Author Peter Hellman


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

not be the vintage they claimed to be. For

oenophiles, the damage caused to the wine

market by the infiltration of this fraud – “a liar

in a glass” – was comparable to the duplicitous

betrayal of adultery.

Hellman writes that “a great old bottle

is an expression of the spirit” which is why

connoisseurs put such high prices on their

stock and are offended by the deceit of

forgeries. There are many minute details on

wine labels, corks and the bottles themselves

that can tip off a winemaker or buyer that

a bottle has been forged. But even if all the

external appearances were accurate, was it

possible that collectors, who claimed to know

quality simply based on experience, could be

fooled by someone who had a better palate?

Hellman writes: “Push the right buttons in

people who think they are too savvy to be

fooled, as the master counterfeiter who is the

subject of this book did repeatedly, and what

is billed as the rarest of wines can be sold

to marks for a far higher price.” Kurniawan

himself was recorded as saying: “Sometimes

the experts don’t even know what they’re

drinking.” Preying on this ignorance was this

September/October 2019 | 57

con man’s secret formula for pairing his fake

wines with eager buyers.

One particular billionaire collector,

outraged by the fraud blemishing the

industry, spent over $20 million to clean up

the wine trade by pinpointing that forgeries

were more rampant than collectors wanted

to believe. These investigations eventually led

to Kurniawan being charged in the first ever

criminal prosecution against a wine forger.

With no precedence for issuing a verdict or

a sentence, the court case broke new ground

and, simply by being at that wine auction

years before, Hellman found himself on the

cusp of an intriguing legal development.

Even readers unfamiliar with the intricacies

of wine tasting or the value of high-end wines

will be captivated by the subculture that

Kurniawan was welcomed into, all the while

intending to sabotage and exploit it for his

own fortune.

DARIN COOK is a Chatham-based freelance writer

who keeps himself well-read and well-fed by visiting the

bookstores and restaurants of London.

AT THIS TIME OF YEAR

FOR

DON’T FALL ANYTHING LESS...

A fresh, new harvest of EVOO has arrived just in time for autumn.

Come experience our fresh, Southern Hemisphere

Extra Virgin Olive Oils!

,

The

Pristine

live

Est. 2012

884 Adelaide Street N. | London | 519-433-4444

www.thepristineolive.ca


58 | September/October 2019

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

Recipes

Mindful Vegan Meals

Food is Your Friend

by Maria Koutsogiannis

Review and Recipe Selections by TRACY TURLIN

You might think that a cookbook

is simply a collection of recipes,

but if you read as many as I do

you’ll see that they’re usually more

than that. A cookbook can be a guide to a

different country or culture, a tribute to an

author’s heritage or a celebration of family,

friends or the bounty of the seasons. It is

often a road map of an author’s travels. Maria

Koutsogiannis has written a road map of a

different kind. In her first published book,

Mindful Vegan Meals: Food is Your Friend

(Page Street Publishing; 2018) she shares her

journey through the hell of an eating disorder

and out the other side to wellness. It’s not

for the faint of heart or for those offended

by hard truth or hard language. The road is

sometimes bumpy and the view is not always

pretty, but, she assures us, “we eventually end

up in a happy place.”

I’d never recommend a book that makes

claims of magical diets, or wonder foods that

will solve all your problems if you just put

them in your morning smoothie. But I am

interested in people who truly want to help

others and I admire the courage of those who

are willing to show their own scars to do so.

Koutsogiannis had some significant issues

in her childhood that led to an unhealthy

relationship with food. She

now spends her life showing

people what she did to change

that, and invites us to see how

improving that relationship

can result in an amazing

change for the better.

Koutsogiannis is the founder

of the food and lifestyle blog

foodbymaria.com and was

named “Food Blogger of the

Year” in Calgary in 2017. She’s

the child of Greek immigrants

and is able to embrace the

food culture of her

childhood while

maintaining the

plant-based diet

she now enjoys.

Mindful Vegan

Meals is all

about making

delicious,

nourishing

food from

plants and enjoying that

food to the fullest. It balances taste and

texture, nutrition and emotional connections.

It illustrates that food that makes you feel

good emotionally and food that makes you

feel good physically can be the same thing.

Hearty Vegetable Minestrone is a recipe

she shares from her childhood, a staple at

her parents’ restaurant in Swift Current.

It’s a wonderfully rustic soup full of chunks

of vegetables in a soothing, simple broth.

The squeeze of lemon at the end brightens

everything up. It’s the kind of soup you want to

eat while looking out the window on a cold day.

Her version of Rice & Dill Stuffed Grape

Leaves (Dolmades) has one of the best lines

I’ve ever read in a recipe. When sautéing

onions, she advises, “You will know they

are ready when your home

begins to smell very fragrant.”

They are a bit more labourintensive

than most of the

recipes you’ll find in this book,

but isn’t that how cooks show

people that they love them?

With an entire chapter

devoted to the Greek

favourites of the author’s

childhood, this book is a sure

hit even if you care nothing

Maria Koutsogiannis


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

about a plant-based diet. For the adventurous

non-vegan, there’s a chapter of sauces, dips

and dressings that have been “vegan-ized.” I

have to tell you, I’m a nut for this type of food

and these look delicious. If, like me, you firmly

believe that raw vegetables are simply a vehicle

for dip, you might want to try some of these.

Photography duties in this book were split

between the author and Calgary commercial

photographer Chris Amat. Food pictures are

primarily done by Koutsogiannis and are warm,

inviting and colourful. They make you hungry.

Amat photographs the author and manages to

capture a feeling of joy and freedom from Maria,

along with her “take no prisoners” attitude.

Whatever your feelings about veganism,

Mindful Vegan Meals is a great cookbook and

an even better story. In the end, this book

is about food, love and happiness. Isn’t that

what all good cookbooks are really about?

Destination for the food lover

Featuring specialty foods,

kitchenwares, tablewares,

cooking classes and gift baskets.

TRACY TURLIN is a freelance writer and dog groomer

in London. Reach her at tracyturlin@gmail.com

Recipes excerpted from Mindful Vegan Meals by Maria

Koutsogiannis. Copyright © 2018. Published by Page

Street Publishing. Reproduced by arrangement with the

Publisher. All rights reserved.

Hearty Vegetable Minestrone

This soup brings me straight back

to my childhood. It’s super simple

because all you need is one pot,

just over ten ingredients and a bit

of time to allow the flavours to

simmer as you get on with your

day! I recommend you enjoy a bowl

of this minestrone soup with cheesy

toast and fresh herbs.

Growing up we used to always go

to the restaurant, Kabos, which

my parents own in Swift Current,

Saskatchewan, and enjoy a bowl

of soup, do some child work (make

coffee, clean tables for fun, fill

waters). This place was and will

forever be my second home: a

place where I learned to socialize

and to work my ass off, and it is

where my love for food was first

born. I am crying just typing this

because it brings back so many

memories. Weekends and Mondays

were vegetable soup. Tuesday’s

115 King St., London Ontario

jillstable.ca 519-645-1335

EatDrinkAd_2019.indd 1 2019-06-18 11:37


60 | September/October 2019

soup was chicken noodle. Wednesday was

lentil. Thursday was bean and bacon. Friday

was traditional Greek avgolemono (otherwise

known as lemon rice) soup. It’s safe to say this

recipe is really special to me and reminds me of

the good old days.

SERVINGS: 4–5

2 tbsp (30 ml) extra virgin olive oil

1 sweet white onion, finely diced

3 cloves garlic

1 cup (100 g) celery stalk, finely chopped

1 cup (128 g) carrot, cubed

Handful of fresh thyme and oregano, chopped

2 cups (248 g) zucchini, cubed, 1 inch (2.5 cm)

thick

1 cup (150 g) red pepper, cubed, 1 inch (2.5 cm)

thick

2 cups (360 g) tomatoes, roughly chopped

2 cups (200 g) green beans, cut into 3-inch

(8-cm) pieces

8 cups (2 L) unsalted vegetable stock

½ cup (100 g) orzo

Salt and pepper to taste

Squeeze of lemon

Fresh cilantro and parsley

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

In a large soup pot heat the olive oil on high for about 30

seconds. Lower the heat to medium and add the onion,

garlic, celery and carrot and let them cook down for

about 5 minutes. Stir occasionally to avoid burning. When

the onions have become translucent, add the thyme

and oregano. Give the mixture a gentle stir then add the

remaining vegetables—zucchini, pepper, tomatoes and

green beans. Cook the vegetables down for a few minutes

on medium heat.

Just as their colour brightens, add the stock. Bring the

mixture to a boil then simmer for 15 minutes. Add the orzo

and cook for another 10 minutes. Taste test, and add salt

and pepper if needed.

Enjoy immediately with a squeeze of lemon and more

fresh herbs!

Did You Know?

Hot/warm foods help with digestion and

bloating. When you learn to listen to your body

and understand why you are craving certain

foods you gain a stronger relationship with your

body. In turn, your body will love you back for

nourishing it so well!

Rice & Dill Stuffed Grape Leaves (Dolmades)

Oh baby, welcome to flavour town. These are

about to blow your mind and leave your family

and friends excited to come back around for

dinner. I realize they are a bit more work than

most of my recipes but you can’t mess with

tradition, folks, so just be patient and trust that

these taste like love in your mouth when you’re

finished.

The combination of lemon, dill and silky rice is

perfect and the tastes complement each other

well. I highly recommend trying the vegan

lemon sauce but please note that this recipe is

traditionally made using eggs, so if you want to

stick to tradition then call your nearest Greek

grandma and snatch that recipe off her!

SERVINGS: 4–5

30 grape leaves

1 yellow onion, finely chopped in a food

processor

4 green onion stems, finely chopped

1 cup (9 g) fresh dill, finely chopped, stems

removed (can also add parsley), plus more for

garnish

7 tbsp (105 ml) extra virgin olive oil, divided

1 cup (185 g) white rice

Salt and pepper to taste

4 slices lemon, ½-inch (13-mm) thick

Vegetable stock, enough to cover dolmades in

the pot

1 tbsp (8 g) cornstarch

½ cup (120 ml) lemon juice

Lemon wedges

Add enough water to halfway fill a medium-sized pot.

Add the grape leaves to the water and bring to a boil then

reduce the heat to low and simmer for about 30 minutes

or until tender to touch.

While the grape leaves are cooking, put the yellow onion

and green onion stems in a food processor and pulse for

about 30 seconds; you do not want them to be very finely

chopped, just well-blended. Remove from the processor

and set aside. Add the dill to the food processor and

process for about 20 seconds or until very finely chopped.

If you do not want to use a food processor you can cut it

by hand.

When the grape leaves are cooked, drain them and lay

them in a bowl or on a plate nice and flat so they will be

easy to roll later. Check for large stems at the base of the

leaf; if they are long just give them a little chop.

In the same pot you used for the grape leaves, warm 4

tablespoons (60 ml) of olive oil and the onion and cook

over medium heat until the onions are soft. You will know

when they’re ready when your home begins to smell very

fragrant.


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

In a large mixing bowl put the rice, dill and onions

mixture. Stir well and season with salt and pepper. Let this

mixture sit for 10 to 15 minutes.

In a medium-sized pot put a few grape leaves and the

lemon slices.

Now it is time to begin assembling our little beauties!

Start by holding a grape leaf, stem side up, in your palm.

Scoop about a tablespoon full of the rice mixture onto the

leaf. Close the leaf by folding over the top and then the

two sides. Finally, tuck it in all tight with the bottom.

Place the dolmades in the pot and make sure that they’re

very close together to ensure they don’t fall apart while

cooking. Repeat this step until you’ve used up all the

grape leaves. Drizzle the remainder of the olive oil (3

tablespoons [45 ml]) over the rolled dolmades. Add

enough vegetable stock to just cover the dolmades then

place a small plate on top (you want the plate to touch the

dolmades). Bring to a boil then lower the heat and simmer

for about 1 hour, or until the rice is cooked.

Reserve 1 cup (240 ml) of juice from the pot to make the

lemon sauce. If there is not enough juice to equal 1 cup

(240 ml), add some hot water.

To make the lemon sauce, put the cornstarch in a bowl,

then add 1 cup (240 ml) of juice from your pot and stir

until well combined. Slowly add the lemon juice to the

mixture and beat like you would an egg. Pour the sauce

into a pot, heat on high for a minute until the sauce

thickens, and then serve, poured over the dolmades.

Sprinkle with the dill and serve

with some lemon wedges for

squeezing over the dolmades.

September/October Events & Highlights

Sept 13 Chinese Moon Festival

— Mooncakes & Tea Pairing Experience

Pre-orders for Mooncakes to take home available

Sept 19 Songwriter Showcase & Stove-Top Chai (3rd Thursday)

Sept 21 & 22 Downton Abbey Garden Tea

Pre-orders for Scones to take home available

Sept 24 4 Weeks to Flourish

— Evidence-Based Clean Eating Program Begins

Sept 28 Matcha & Chanoyu Workshop with Momo Yoshida Walden

Oct 3 Tea Tasting with Chinese Gaiwan Workshop

Oct 10 Tea Beginnings – 4 week course

— Origins, Terminology, Preparation, Tasting

Oct 17 Songwriter Showcase & Stove-Top Chai (3rd Thursday)

Oct 18 Petojo @ the Lounge

— Indonesian Tea Pairing Dinner Experience

Oct 25 Tea Flight Night — Green Tea & Sheng Puer

Oct 27 Harvest Afternoon Tea Service

268 Piccadilly Street (at Wellington)

519-601-TEAS (8327) • tealoungelondon.com

WED & THURS 11am-6pm • FRI & SAT 11am-9pm • SUN noon–5pm

Did You Know?

Grape leaves are used in

traditional herbal medicine

to combat a variety of

ailments including heavy

menstrual bleeding, canker

sores and stomach aches.

Notes

You can find grape leaves in

the ethnic section of many

grocery stores; they are most

commonly sold jarred or

canned. If some leaves are

larger than others, add more

rice mixture accordingly.

You could add up to an

extra teaspoon when they’re

a bit larger. At first, your

grape leaves will not seem

so tender but as the dish

sits they begin to tenderize!

Sometimes, these are best

enjoyed as leftovers and

heated before consuming!


62 | September/October 2019

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

The Lighter Side

Let’s Taco ’Bout Picky Eaters

By DARIN COOK

When anyone asks me for an

example of the culinary stars

being perfectly aligned I refer

them to 2016, when National

Taco Day (which occurs every year on October

4) fell on a Tuesday. Countless families hold

regular meals consisting solely of tacos on

what have become known as Taco Tuesdays.

With strong preferences for Mexican food in

our family, however, sometimes one Tuesday a

week isn’t enough. The spirit of Taco Tuesday

gets appointed to other days of the week,

when cravings arise on Margarita Mondays,

Fiesta Fridays, or Soft Taco Saturdays.

Another reason we rejig

our calendars for Mexican food

is that Jonah, the youngest

member and pickiest eater in

our family, has never shied

away from tacos, nachos,

quesadillas, or burritos. Having

them for dinner often is a

path of least resistance. Even when our pickiest

eater can be in the mood for Mexican at

the drop of a hat, National Taco Day colliding

with Taco Tuesday was a meal made in heaven.

That Tuesday I got home from work to find

my wife had ground beef browning on the

stove. She asked me to take over watching the

meat, while she chopped tomatoes, lettuce,

and avocados. The aroma of spices coming

from the pan was a good sign that tacos would

be extra delicious on this fortuitous day for

Mexican food, but as I looked down at the

meat, I sensed trouble and was struck by a

terrible realization.

“Are you insane?” I whispered to my wife,

pointing frantically in the pan where I had

spied tiny shreds of carrot and flecks of

spinach amongst the ground beef. “Are you

trying to ruin Taco Tuesday? It is one of the

few things left that Jonah willingly eats. If he

sees veggies in his tacos, it will be game over.

We will lose Taco Tuesday. And you decide to

risk it all on National Taco Day?”

“I hide veggies in our spaghetti sauce

and that’s never been a problem,” my wife

defended herself, “so I thought I would try it

with tacos.”

I knew it was a good idea in theory, but

Jonah’s ability to detect foods he does not

like was at such a high level that we walked a

fine line in getting him to ingest any nutrition

from fruits and vegetables. I stirred the meat

a bit, realizing it would turn darker brown the

longer it cooked. It was highly unlikely Jonah

would notice a difference in flavour if there

were carrots and spinach mixed into his tacos,

but if he spied one flash of orange or green, he

would call it quits on the meal. I considered

burning the meat to a charred blackness,

obliterating any chance of

him seeing a colour that

did not resemble meat.

But that could backfire on

me as well, since he has

a sensitivity to food that

he detects to be the least bit

overdone. My only hope was to

cook the meat perfectly to hide the

vegetables.

With the table set with green guacamole

and lettuce, red tomatoes and salsa, orange

cheese, and white sour cream, I nervously

brought out very dark brown ground beef.

As expected from our vegetable-eschewing

son, he used only beef and cheese, snubbing

the other fresh toppings. The visual test was

passed, as he scooped some meat into his

taco shell. Crunching down on his taco, he

declared, “This taco meat is so tasty.”

Crisis averted. I was confident that Taco

Tuesday had not lost its lustre and my

wife was content that our picky eater was

consuming a helping of vegetables. It really

was a Mexican food miracle. And who knows,

with Cinco de Mayo — an even more festive

reason to celebrate Mexican food — falling on

a Tuesday in 2020, maybe there is hope that

Jonah will take the next step and put fresh

veggies on his tacos.

DARIN COOK is a Chatham-based freelance writer.


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