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GUIDE TO BUDAPEST<br />
®<br />
SEPTEMBER <strong>2019</strong><br />
RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE<br />
SIP<br />
DISCOVER HUNGARIAN<br />
WINE AT A FESTIVAL IN A<br />
STORYBOOK SETTING<br />
SEE<br />
RECIRQUEL’S RE-IMAGINING<br />
OF THE CIRCUS IS DARING<br />
AND ELEGANT<br />
WWW.<strong>WHERE</strong>TRAVELER.COM<br />
RELAX<br />
SERENITY IS FOUND AT<br />
AN URBAN GARDEN SPA
High quality<br />
street food<br />
Hungarian<br />
& Jewish classics<br />
Local beers & wines<br />
Electronic grooves<br />
on weekends<br />
spilerbp.hu<br />
Address: Király utca 13. (Gozsdu Udvar), Instagram: spiler.co<br />
S H A N G H A<br />
I<br />
Snacks & bites<br />
to share<br />
Amazing cocktail<br />
selection<br />
Asia inspired interior<br />
Late night snacks<br />
from 11 pm<br />
spilershanghai.hu
20<br />
8<br />
26<br />
SEPTEMBER<br />
CONTENTS<br />
FEATURES<br />
4 <strong>WHERE</strong> NOW<br />
Start hatching some plans with our<br />
selection of performances, exhibitions,<br />
and other special events taking place<br />
throughout the capital this month.<br />
8 WINE DOWN<br />
Set against the backdrop of Buda<br />
Castle, you won't want to leave<br />
Budapest's premier annual wine festival.<br />
Can't attend the event? We tell you<br />
which Hungarian wines you should<br />
bring back home.<br />
11 FRESH START<br />
Celebrate the season’s abundant<br />
produce at two of Buda’s best markets:<br />
MOM Biopiac and the Czakó Kert Piacz<br />
are loved by locals.<br />
LISTINGS<br />
12 ENTERTAINMENT<br />
Recirquel blends classic and contemporary<br />
dance with the wonders of the circus. See<br />
the newest production at Müpa Budapest.<br />
16 MUSEUMS & GALLERIES<br />
In a city with a rich photography legacy,<br />
the visionary TOBE Gallery celebrates the<br />
contemporary genre by uniting Hungarian<br />
and Latin American artists.<br />
20 SHOPS AND SERVICES<br />
Hungarian-American entrepreneur Zachary<br />
Tipton first started making his distinctive<br />
vinyl eyeglasses more than 20 years ago in<br />
Seattle. Visit Tipton Eyeworks, peruse the<br />
vast selection, and find out why celebrities<br />
love his frames.<br />
24 WELLNESS<br />
There are plenty of feel-good escapes in<br />
Budapest, but none are quite like the Secret<br />
Garden Day Spa.<br />
26 DINING<br />
Plantmilkyway is a delicious little bakery that<br />
bolsters Budapest’s burgeoning vegan food scene.<br />
36 ESSENTIALS<br />
Useful information including taxis, bike rentals,<br />
public transport tickets, and embassies..<br />
38 MAP<br />
A map of Budapest that helps you navigate<br />
the city and find your way to its most<br />
important sites and venues.<br />
See more of Budapest at<br />
www.wheretraveler.com/budapest<br />
www.wheretraveler.com 1
where cover_<strong>september</strong>_<strong>2019</strong>.indd 3 <strong>2019</strong>. 08. 23. 19:35<br />
®<br />
where®<br />
MAGAZINE<br />
IN OVER 80 CITIES: INFLUENCING AND INSPIRING VISITORS SINCE 1936<br />
GG | MVP<br />
PUBLISHER<br />
Emese Juhász<br />
CREATIVE<br />
EDITOR IN CHIEF<br />
Alia Akkam<br />
ART DIRECTOR<br />
Balázs Milléte<br />
ADVERTISING<br />
SALES & OFFICE MANAGER<br />
Viktória Novák<br />
SALES REPRESENTATIVE<br />
Anikó Szabó<br />
Marianna Lakatos<br />
EXECUTIVE<br />
PRESIDENT<br />
Donna W. Kessler<br />
VICE PRESIDENT<br />
Angela E. Allen<br />
MANAGING DIRECTOR EUROPE<br />
Chris Manning<br />
CREATIVE<br />
CHIEF CREATIVE OFFICER<br />
Haines Wilkerson<br />
DESIGN DIRECTOR<br />
Jane Frey<br />
CREATIVE COORDINATOR<br />
Beverly Mandelblatt<br />
CHIEF TRAVEL EDITOR<br />
Geoff Kohl<br />
CHAIRMAN<br />
William S. Morris III<br />
PRESIDENT & CEO<br />
William S. Morris IV<br />
ON THE COVER<br />
GUIDE TO BUDAPEST<br />
SEPTEMBER <strong>2019</strong><br />
RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE<br />
OUR<br />
SECRET<br />
CHOICES<br />
WWW.<strong>WHERE</strong>TRAVELER.COM<br />
SIP<br />
DISCOVER HUNGARIAN<br />
WINE AT A FESTIVAL IN A<br />
STORYBOOK SETTING<br />
SEE<br />
RECIRQUEL’S RE-IMAGINING<br />
OF THE CIRCUS IS DARING<br />
AND ELEGANT<br />
RELAX<br />
SERENITY IS FOUND AT<br />
AN URBAN GARDEN SPA<br />
The Buda Castle<br />
complex: one of the<br />
world’s most beautiful<br />
settings for a wine<br />
festival.<br />
BUDAPEST AFFILIATE<br />
GASTRO GUIDE KFT.<br />
Bem József u 9. fsz., 1027 Budapest<br />
Phone/Fax: (+36 1) 781 9483<br />
E-mail: hello@grandbudapest.com<br />
ISSN 1217-5714<br />
Where® Magazine is available at: Hotel rooms (5-4-3 star), embassies, office buildings, Tourinform offices, tourist and business centers, airports. Plan ahead for your next visit to Budapest – subscribe to<br />
Where®: 12 issues 4,800 Ft for Hungary only; overseas subcriptions $50. Where® is published by Gastro Guide Kft., Budapest. Printed by Kvadrát Print, www.kvadratprint.hu. Where® Magazine and the where®<br />
logo are registered trademarks of Morris Visitor Publications. Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any<br />
consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part strictly prohibited.<br />
In the interest of environmental preservation, every<br />
reader of Where Budapest is encouraged to share,<br />
reuse, and recycle each copy of our magazine.<br />
MAGYAR SZÁLLODAPORTÁSOK<br />
„ARANYKULCS” EGYESÜLETE MEMBERS OF<br />
THE U.I.C.H. LES CLEFS D‘OR ORGANISATION<br />
wheretraveler.com<br />
2 <strong>WHERE</strong> LONDON BUDAPEST I JANUARY I SEPTEMBER 2013<strong>2019</strong>
WELCOME<br />
ALIA AKKAM<br />
Editor-in-chief of Where Budapest<br />
When I was a kid, September always felt more like the beginning of the year than January,<br />
with all those spiral notebooks filled with blank, promising pages that I couldn’t wait to<br />
crack open. To me, September represented a thrilling plunge into the unknown. This issue,<br />
I hope, will inspire you to see some of the equally exciting possibilities that await you in<br />
Budapest this month.<br />
Consider the annual Budapest Wine Festival, a lively, one-of-a-kind way to discover some<br />
of the producers shaping the local oenophile scene. If you prefer beer, we’ll also<br />
introduce you to some of the top Hungarian craft brands in our nightlife insert.<br />
Budapest’s robust art and culture programming for the fall kicks off this month, too, and<br />
we encourage you to see an eye-popping modern circus performance, or wander through<br />
one of the city’s pioneering contemporary photography galleries.<br />
Over the last few years a slew of dynamic vegetarian and vegan eateries have popped up<br />
here. There is one particularly delightful bakery we are smitten with, where the<br />
sophisticated creations are made without eggs, soy, or dairy products. Go visit.<br />
Since the month signifies change, including a reluctant goodbye to summer, it’s also a<br />
great time to get some pampering in, and we know just the leafy retreat that will leave<br />
you rejuvenated.<br />
Finally, it wouldn’t be September without a little spirited “back-to-school” shopping. A pair of<br />
handmade glasses at Tipton Eyeworks will leave you just as giddy as your first day of school.<br />
www.wheretraveler.com 3
®<br />
6-8<br />
SEPT<br />
1 ST STEPS<br />
At the Erkel Theater, a lovely stand-in for the Hungarian State<br />
Opera while it remains closed for renovations, take in 1 st Steps, a<br />
three-act ballet. Set to Maurice Ravel’s Bolero as well as music by Steve Reich<br />
and Erik Satie among others, the Hungarian National Ballet explores eight<br />
different poignant perspectives on the female experience. In addition to Trois<br />
Gnossiennes, Falling Angels, and Walking Mad, this production features the new<br />
Episode 31. opera.hu<br />
THIS MONTH, LOSE YOURSELF IN A<br />
COMPELLING CULTURAL PERFORMANCE,<br />
OR SIMPLY TAKE AN AFTERNOON<br />
DESSERT BREAK.<br />
13-15<br />
SEPT<br />
ÉDES NAPOK<br />
Édes Napok, unfurling on Szent István tér, is a dessert lover’s<br />
wonderland. Over the course of a weekend, more than 100<br />
confectioners and merchants present their hand-made cakes and chocolates<br />
to the public. Here you can try the Jewish specialty flódni, stacked with apple,<br />
walnut, poppy seed, and plum jam; a classic jam-stuffed isler cookie enrobed<br />
in chocolate; or a Hungarian-made dark Dr. Choc bar, infused with calming<br />
lavender and lemongrass. edesnapok.hu<br />
24<br />
SEPT<br />
HELMET<br />
Thirty years ago, the alternative metal band<br />
Helmet, known for experimental albums<br />
like Betty and Meantime, was formed in New York. To<br />
commemorate the milestone, Helmet, led by original<br />
frontman Page Hamilton, is embarking on a 30-city tour<br />
through Europe this fall (followed by another in the<br />
States). Come see them during their Budapest stop at the<br />
sprawling Dürer Kert. 7 p.m., durerkert.com<br />
PHOTO: CENTER TOP — PÉTER RÁKOSSY, BOTTOM RIGHT — JACOB BLICKENSTAFF<br />
4 <strong>WHERE</strong> LONDON BUDAPEST I JANUARY I SEPTEMBER 2013<strong>2019</strong>
<strong>WHERE</strong> NOW | CALENDAR<br />
13<br />
SEPT<br />
BOSCH + BOSCH GROUP AND THE VOJVODINA<br />
NEO-AVANTGARDE MOVEMENT<br />
Most of the young members of the art collective Bosch + Bosch Group, founded<br />
in the former Yugoslavia in 1969, were of Hungarian descent and influenced by Hungarian<br />
activism during the interwar period. Little is known of Bosch + Bosch Group outside the<br />
region, but the Ludwig Museum is now shining a light on their bold contributions to<br />
modern Yugoslav art, including those of Katalin Ladik and Bálint Szombathy, who later found<br />
international success. Running through November 17, the exhibition also includes the works<br />
of early 1970s neo-avant garde artists based in Novi Sad. ludwigmuseum.hu<br />
PHOTO: TOP RIGHT — LÁSZLÓ SZALMA<br />
22<br />
SEPT<br />
ILARIA GRAZIANO &<br />
FRANCESCO FORNI<br />
This year’s Bridging Europe<br />
series at Müpa Budapest focuses on Italy,<br />
showcasing talents like Mario Biondi,<br />
as well as screenings of favorite films<br />
including Federico Fellini’s 1960 La<br />
Dolce Vita. One musical act not to<br />
miss is Ilaria Graziano and Francesco<br />
Foriani. Graziano, who sang with<br />
Marianne Faithfull in The Girl from<br />
Nagasaki, and Foriani, a composer,<br />
are magical together, deftly<br />
bouncing from Neapolitan songs<br />
to French chansons, and surprising<br />
audiences by incorporating folk,<br />
blues, and country sounds, or even<br />
strumming a ukulele. During this free<br />
performance in the atrium, listen<br />
for songs from the duo’s newest<br />
album, Twinkle Twinkle. 7:30<br />
p.m., mupa.hu<br />
www.wheretraveler.com 5
<strong>WHERE</strong> NOW | CALENDAR<br />
20-21<br />
SEPT<br />
MAGNÉTIC<br />
Budapest’s District IX is home to Trafó, a hub for contemporary<br />
theater performances, including CIE Jérôme Thomas’s Magnetic. This<br />
piece from the innovative French company conjures a kinetic, hypnotic universe<br />
populated by a quartet of jugglers that play with wires, bullets, light, and speed.<br />
Wilfried Wendling’s trippy music amplifies the dark room’s surreal vibes. trafo.hu<br />
24<br />
SEPT<br />
HUNGARIAN<br />
RADIO SYMPHONY<br />
ORCHESTRA<br />
Debuting in 1943, the Hungarian Radio<br />
Symphony Orchestra was originally<br />
founded as a chamber orchestra in 1936.<br />
British radio stations, impressed by their<br />
sound, soon began broadcasting the<br />
orchestra’s programs. Today, it remains one<br />
of the country’s most renowned music<br />
organizations, and you have a chance to see<br />
them perform at the Franz Liszt Academy<br />
of Music’s gilded Grand Hall. Tamás Vásáry<br />
will conduct an all-Beethoven program that<br />
includes two piano concertos, featuring<br />
solos by the 24-year-old sensation Fülöp<br />
Ránki. 7:30, zeneakademia.hu<br />
8<br />
SEPT<br />
34 TH WIZZ AIR<br />
BUDAPEST HALF<br />
MARATHON<br />
It’s time, once again, for Central<br />
Europe’s largest half marathon.<br />
Last year, nearly 2,000<br />
participants came from<br />
abroad to run this 21 km<br />
race. Even if you’re not<br />
participating, it’s still<br />
exhilarating to watch the<br />
runners on their highpowered<br />
“tour” through<br />
Budapest. The course takes<br />
them past the city’s most<br />
well-known sites, including<br />
the banks of the Danube<br />
and the Parliament building. If<br />
you’re running, one of Budapest’s<br />
distinctive thermal baths is where you’ll<br />
want to head next to soothe those aching<br />
muscles. halfmarathon.runinbudapest.com<br />
6 <strong>WHERE</strong> LONDON BUDAPEST I JANUARY I SEPTEMBER 2013<strong>2019</strong><br />
1-9<br />
SEPT<br />
JEWISH CULTURAL<br />
FESTIVAL<br />
A celebration of the arts and<br />
tradition, Budapest’s annual Jewish Cultural<br />
Festival brings together a lively mix of<br />
musicians, many who will perform at the<br />
must-see Dohány Street Synagogue. Spend<br />
one night listening to the Budapest Klezmer<br />
Band, another the Theramin-playing Illényi<br />
Katica. There’s also Yiddish swing from the<br />
Malek Andi Soulistic project to look forward<br />
to at the Hegedűs Gyula Street Synagogue<br />
as well as the waltz-meets-klezmermeets-tango<br />
sounds of violinist Orsolya<br />
Korcsolán at the Budapest Music Center.<br />
zsidokulturalisfesztival.hu<br />
PHOTO: TOP LEFT — CHRISTOPHE RAYNAUD DE LAGE, BOTTOM LEFT — COURTESY OF RUNINBUDAPEST.COM, TOP RIGHT — ATTILA VÖRÖS
CASTLE HILL<br />
Meandering through Castle Hill’s picturesque cobblestoned streets, filled with cozy restaurants, cafés (be sure to take a cake and coffee break<br />
at Ruszwurm, one of the city’s oldest confectioneries) shops, and galleries is an excursion that many visitors to Budapest cherish. It’s not just<br />
the quaint medieval setting that appeals, however, but the history that permeates this UNESCO World Heritage site. Ride the funicular up<br />
to Buda’s beautiful Castle Hill, a limestone plateau above the Danube, to the commanding Baroque-era palace. Originally completed in the<br />
13th century, it was re-built by the Hapsburgs and welcomes patrons through the ornate Corvinus Gate. At this cultural complex you’ll find<br />
the Hungarian National Gallery, featuring the work of 18th- and 19th-century Hungarian artists, as well as the Budapest History Museum,<br />
which does a fine job of delving into the city’s complex past. Northwest of this is Hospital in the Rock Nuclear Bunker Museum. Once an<br />
air-raid emergency hospital during World War II, it now offers a peek into a secret subterranean world spawned by the extensive network of<br />
caverns running below the castle. Just a few minutes away is the elegant and slender Matthias Church. Tracing its roots to the 11th century,<br />
it beckons with a roof of colorful tiles and awes with frescoes and stained glass inside. Fisherman’s Bastion, a sprawling neo-gothic and<br />
neo-romanesque terrace that flaunts storybook turrets, is beside the church. Before descending into the city, join the<br />
crowds here to take in one of Budapest’s most hypnotic panoramas.<br />
TOP<br />
PICK<br />
www.wheretraveler.com 7
Wine Down<br />
Visiting Buda’s Castle District is essential no matter the season, but our personal favorite time to while away a few<br />
hours here is during the Budapest Wine Festival. Against a backdrop of palatial buildings, we sip Hungarian wine<br />
after Hungarian wine and the feeling is one of sheer magic especially if we’re holed up at one of the coveted tables<br />
on the Budapest Terrace soaking up the ambience. The 28th edition takes place September 5-8. If you’re remotely<br />
curious about Hungary’s long, rich wine legacy, you’ll definitely want to snag a ticket.<br />
8 <strong>WHERE</strong> LONDON BUDAPEST I JANUARY I SEPTEMBER 2013<strong>2019</strong>
Of course the best way to learn about Hungary’s 22<br />
different wine regions is by visiting them firsthand.<br />
If you have the time for such an excursion on your<br />
Budapest trip, we highly recommend that you<br />
orchestrate a tour through as many cozy, rustic cellars<br />
as possible. If not, consider the Budapest Wine Festival<br />
a powerful starting point for discovering Hungarian<br />
wine and learning the names of those hard-topronounce<br />
indigenous varietals in the process.<br />
For the “greatest hits,” we suggest grabbing VinAgora<br />
Taste of Hungary’s helpful booklet with a map that<br />
leads you to some of Hungary’s most emblematic<br />
wines all of which won at the VinAgora International<br />
Wine Competition including Tokaj Aszú, Bull’s Blood<br />
of Eger (Egri Bikavér), Cabernet Franc from Villány,<br />
Furmint, and Welschriesling (Olaszrizling), with a<br />
special emphasis this year on wines from the Eger<br />
region.To ensure that you’re properly fortified while<br />
tasting all these wines, there will be plenty of food<br />
vendors on hand as well. We suggest the dishes from<br />
Ami Burger and Gléda Vendéglő, or if a simple slice of<br />
pizza will do, the satisfying one from Pizza Me.<br />
Complementing the food and drink is live entertainment<br />
across three different stages. Along with plenty of folk<br />
music and dancing, look out for performances from<br />
artists like Dánielfy Gergely és a Utazók, Káel Norbert<br />
and Jazzical Trio, and the Gáspár Károly Trio.<br />
If your schedule doesn’t allow for a leisurely evening<br />
at the festival, then we encourage you to visit a<br />
local wine shop (Bortársaság has a comprehensive<br />
selection) and stock up on a few bottles to bring back<br />
home. Here are seven wineries that are participating<br />
in the Budapest Wine Festival you should consider.<br />
www.wheretraveler.com 9
BOCK<br />
The Bock family has been making wine in the Villány region since<br />
the mid-19th century, and with a rustic hotel, restaurant, and cellar<br />
to explore on the grounds, it’s a true tourist destination. If a trip<br />
out here isn’t in the cards, then seek out bottles of winemaker<br />
József Bock’s dry, high-acidity Olaszrizling and spicy, Syrah-<br />
Kékfrankos-Pinot Noir red blend, Bock & Roll, in Budapest. bock.hu<br />
GERE<br />
Winemaking has been part of the Gere family’s history for<br />
seven generations. Now under the leadership of Attila Gere, it<br />
produces wines like a clean, fruity rosé and the premium Kopár,<br />
a blend of Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon.<br />
Visitors often prolong the Villány experience with the seasonal<br />
degustation menu on offer at Mandula restaurant, or a luxe<br />
night at Gere’s Crocus Resort & Wine Spa. gere.hu<br />
KREINBACHER<br />
Chances are that you will become acquainted with Kreinbacher’s<br />
sparkling wines before leaving Budapest; they grace many a<br />
restaurant and bar menu. Based in the Nagy-Somló wine region,<br />
Kreinbacher, founded in 2002, is also known for its beautiful<br />
white wines like Furmint and Hárslevelű. One incentive to go<br />
visit: the centerpiece of the organically cultivated estate is a<br />
modern-industrial tasting room. kreinbacher.hu<br />
KRISTINUS<br />
Everyone loves Lake Balaton in the summer, but the truth is<br />
it’s equally spectacular in the fall. One stop to consider: the<br />
Kristinus Estate, which produces a full line-up of wines, including<br />
Chardonnay, Irsai Olivér, and Furmint, as well as Merlot, Cabernet<br />
Franc, and Pinot Noir. If you’re looking for a place to sleep don’t<br />
overlook the modern, 10-room Vinotel, which also provides bus<br />
tours of the Southern Balaton region. kristinus.hu<br />
MÉSZÁROS<br />
One of Szekszárd’s bigger wineries, family-run Mészáros—if you<br />
go, don’t miss the striking cellar—offers a number of varieties,<br />
including a classic Kadarka and the Ohmerops reserve blend of<br />
Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cabernet Franc. Hotel Merops<br />
comes to the rescue with Old World accommodations, but even<br />
for those who aren’t spending the night, a meal at the swank<br />
restaurant is the perfect wine-tasting break. meszarosborhaz.hu<br />
PANNONHALMI<br />
Benedictine monks founded the monastery of Pannonhalma in<br />
996, and so the wine-making tradition here in western Hungary<br />
stretches back centuries. Visiting the abbey is a perfect day trip,<br />
particularly when it’s followed up with a wine tasting. Try the<br />
Tricollis white and rosé varieties, the Pinot Noir, or the Merlot-<br />
Cabernet Franc blend, Hermina. apatsagipinceszet.hu<br />
SAUSKA<br />
Family-owned Sauska, going strong since Krisztián Sauska<br />
launched it in the late 1990s, has vineyards in both Villány and<br />
Tokaj. It is one of Hungary’s most celebrated wineries, known for<br />
both bright Furmint and daring red blends like the Cuvée 7 with<br />
Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot. If you head<br />
out to Villány, do plan a meal at the winery’s on-site restaurant,<br />
which sources produce from its own garden. sauska.hu<br />
10 <strong>WHERE</strong> LONDON BUDAPEST I JANUARY I SEPTEMBER 2013<strong>2019</strong>
THE GUIDE<br />
TOP<br />
TIPS<br />
FRESH START<br />
Throughout Hungary’s wine regions there are a number of jubilant festivals celebrating the grape harvest this month. It’s<br />
also a great time to feast on the bounty of fresh, pre-autumn vegetables and fruits, and one of the best places to see what’s<br />
in season is at the Bio Piac in Buda’s District XII. Adjacent to the MOM Park shopping center, this organic market (open on Saturday) highlights<br />
local produce, juices, and bakery treats, as well as other made-in-Hungary specialties like jams, and even all-natural cosmetics, that<br />
you can tuck into your suitcase.<br />
Then, head to Czakó Kert & Piacz (the market is open Wednesday through Saturday) about a 15-minute walk away for more straight-from-thegarden<br />
goods and stands selling an intriguing assortment of meats, cheeses, and hot sauces. Once you’re done loading up your tote bag,<br />
savor the bistro’s cozy, rustic atmosphere by ordering a plate of Hungarian-style scrambled eggs spiked with paprika, or rye granola swirled<br />
with yogurt and cinnamon. The menu fittingly weaves in plenty of ingredients directly from its market’s farmers. Csörsz u. 18 and Czakó u. 15<br />
www.wheretraveler.com 11
ENTERTAINMENT<br />
“The circus is the only<br />
fun you can buy that<br />
is good for you.” —<br />
Ernest Hemingway<br />
Budapest’s enchanted relationship with the<br />
circus traces back to 1889 and the debut of<br />
the Capital Circus of Budapest. Since 1971<br />
the historic company has found a home in City<br />
Park, where it continues to entertain as the city’s<br />
premier big top and hosts the Budapest Circus<br />
Festival every other year.<br />
Such a classical spectacle is not what Bence Vági<br />
desired when he founded Recirquel, his own<br />
version of a modern, electric circus in 2012. A<br />
director and choreographer, Vági first introduced<br />
Recirquel to Budapest audiences in the spring of<br />
2013 with the premiere of Night Circus and it was<br />
an immediate hit, attracting the support of the<br />
prestigious performing arts venue, Müpa Budapest.<br />
“I was originally trained as a dancer. While the circus<br />
has always been one of those ever present, but<br />
never consciously noted influences, with the<br />
creation of Recirquel this influence has emerged to<br />
the surface to become one with my contemporary<br />
and classical dance training,” says Vági<br />
Other enrapturing Recirquel productions followed,<br />
like The Naked Clown and Paris Nuit, the<br />
Brassaï-inspired deep dive into the seamy 1930s<br />
that resonates with cabaret lovers. Now, Recirquel<br />
returns to Müpa with My Land on September 13<br />
and 14 and Non Solus on September 15. My Land,<br />
featuring acrobats, made waves at the Edinburgh<br />
Festival Fringe last year, and expands on a style<br />
that Vági first started developing in 2015’s Non<br />
Solus, when he brought together the talents of a<br />
dancer and circus artist.<br />
“There is always something different and special I<br />
admire about the shows. In the case of My Land<br />
and Non Solus, though, there is something<br />
common: they represent the process leading to a<br />
new genre in performing arts, 'cirque danse,’”<br />
explains Vági. “It is the combination of circus arts<br />
and dance, classical and contemporary, to create a<br />
novel form of theater, a new way of expression for<br />
the storytellers of art. What I presently love the<br />
most about these two particular Recirquel pieces is<br />
the complexity of the performance the acrobats I<br />
work with are capable of, and I'm looking for the<br />
ways to develop it even further.”<br />
Deep into planning his next show, Vági is<br />
continuing to explore and refine cirque danse<br />
while never losing sight of the heritage that shapes<br />
his productions: “It has always been important for<br />
me to show the world the traditions of East<br />
European circus arts, but in a way that can attract<br />
the audience of our present day, that can<br />
communicate with the young generations.”<br />
recirquel.com; mupa.hu<br />
PHOTO: TOP RIGHT – MY LAND, TAMÁS RÉTHEY-PRIKKEL, TOP LEFT – MY LAND, ZSOFIA PALYI<br />
12 <strong>WHERE</strong> BUDAPEST I SEPTEMBER <strong>2019</strong>
ENTERTAINMENT<br />
ENTERTAINMENT<br />
PERFORMANCE VENUES<br />
A38 SHIP Rock the boat nightly at one of Budapest’s<br />
top music and dance venues, docked<br />
on the Danube. Buda XI, moored south of<br />
Petőfi Bridge. T: (+36 1) 464 3940, www.a38.hu<br />
Off Map<br />
ÁTRIUM THEATER A cultural hub offering Englishlanguage<br />
theater performances, dance shows,<br />
and live concerts. Buda II, Margit krt. 55. T: (+36<br />
1) 317 9338, www.atriumfilmszinhaz.hu Map E3<br />
BUDAI VIGADO Also known as the Hungarian<br />
Heritage House, this cultural center stages<br />
mostly Hungarian folk dance and music performances.<br />
Buda I, Corvin tér 8. T: (+36 1) 225 6049,<br />
www. heritagehouse.hu Map D3<br />
BUDAPEST MUSIC CENTER (BMC) This complex<br />
encompasses a comprehensive music library,<br />
a record label, and multiple venues that showcase<br />
established and promising musicians,<br />
including the well-regarded Opus Jazz Club.<br />
Pest IX, Mátyás u. 8. T: (+36 1) 216 7894, www.<br />
bmc. hu Map A6<br />
DANUBE PALACE Classical concerts and performances<br />
by the Hungarian State Folk Ensemble<br />
and other companies take place here. T: (+36 1)<br />
317 2754. Pest V, Zrínyi u. 5. www.dunapalota.<br />
hu Map D5<br />
FONÓ MUSIC HALL World music, folk music, folk<br />
dances, and jazz are performed on several<br />
stages at this venue. Buda XI, Sztregova u. 3. T:<br />
(+36 1) 206 5300, www. fono.hu Off Map<br />
KLEBELSBERG CULTURAL CENTRE Tucked into<br />
the serene Buda hills, this cultural gem hosts<br />
modern and folk dancing, classical theater, and<br />
contemporary arts. Buda II, Templom u. 2-10. T:<br />
(+36 1) 392 0860, www.kulturkuria.hu Off Map<br />
LISZT FERENC ACADEMY OF MUSIC Top-notch music<br />
performances unfold at this Art Nouveau music<br />
university founded by its namesake composer. It<br />
has a splendid main concert hall and a smaller hall<br />
for chamber music performances. Guided tours<br />
every day at 1:30pm. Pest VI, Liszt Ferenc tér 8. T:<br />
(+36 1) 462 4600, www.lisztacademy.hu Map D6<br />
MADÁCH THEATER A grand, modern playhouse<br />
featuring a plush interior and elaborate productions<br />
of hit musicals like Cats and Mary Poppins.<br />
English subtitles are provided for some<br />
shows. Pest VII, Erzsébet krt. 29-33. T: (+36 1) 478<br />
2041, www.madachszinhaz.hu Map D7<br />
MARGARET ISLAND OPEN-AIR STAGE This beautiful<br />
amphitheater is situated in the middle of Margaret<br />
Island, an urban retreated planted directly in the<br />
middle of the Danube. It makes for a magical<br />
summer evening. Margaret Island, under the Water<br />
Tower (accessible by bus 26 from Nyugati Square).<br />
Open in the summer. www. szabadter.hu Off Map<br />
MATTHIAS CHURCH Located on Castle Hill near<br />
Fisherman’s Bastion, this impressive church<br />
with its colorful ceramic tiled roof and richly<br />
decorated interior is a must-see sight for tourists.<br />
It also presents regular classical and church<br />
music concerts. Buda I, Szentháromság tér.<br />
www. matyas-templom.hu Map D3<br />
www.wheretraveler.com 13
ENTERTAINMENT<br />
ENTERTAINMENT<br />
Tropicarium<br />
the shark zoo<br />
ÓBUDAI TÁRSASKÖR Opulent performance hall<br />
that hosts classical and ragtime concerts. Buda<br />
III, Kiskorona u. 7. T: (+36 1) 250 0288, www.<br />
obudaitar- saskor.hu Off Map<br />
ORFEUM This underground evening cabaret serves<br />
up tasty cocktails and classy entertainment<br />
spanning swing and jazz shows to Frank Sinatra<br />
tributes and vaudeville performances. Closed on<br />
Mon- days. Pest VII, Erzsébet krt. 43-49. T: (+36 1)<br />
336 00 56, www.orfeumclub.hu Map D7<br />
PALACE OF ARTS Also called Müpa, this sprawling<br />
cultural complex features an impressive<br />
monthly line-up of well-known Hungarian and<br />
international artists in different venues. Pest IX,<br />
Komor Marcell u. 1, at the tram 2 Millenniumi<br />
Kulturális Központ stop. T: (+36 1) 555 3000,<br />
www.mupa.hu Off Map<br />
PESTI VIGADÓ Restored to its former glory, when<br />
it featured famous artists like Ferenc Liszt or<br />
Claude Debussy, the building now houses<br />
exhibits and all kinds of shows, concerts, and<br />
performances, largely in Hungarian. Pest V,<br />
Vigadó tér 2. www.vigado.hu Map C5<br />
ST. STEPHEN’S BASILICA This Neo-Renaissance<br />
church also offers regular organ and classical<br />
music concerts in an ambient, historic setting.<br />
Up- to-date program on the website. Pest V,<br />
Szent István tér 1, T: (+36 20) 823 2095, www.<br />
organcon- cert.hu Map D5<br />
THÁLIA THEATER This well-known playhouse on<br />
“Budapest’s Broadway” sometimes hosts opera,<br />
theater, and dance performances, largely in<br />
Hungarian. Pest VI, Nagymező u. 22-24. T: (+36 1)<br />
331 0500, www. thalia.hu Map D6<br />
TRAFÓ HOUSE OF CONTEMPORARY ARTS It’s a<br />
small, laidback theater, but this is the nexus for<br />
Budapest’s contemporary dance, theater, and<br />
modern circus scene. Pest IX, Liliom u. 41. T: (+36<br />
1) 215 1600, www.trafo.hu Map A7<br />
TRIP SHIP An offbeat venue for theater, concerts,<br />
dance performances, and programs for children.<br />
Buda I, Szilágyi Dezső tér, pier 2. T: (+36 20)<br />
355 6476, www.tripart.hu Map D4<br />
VÍGSZÍNHÁZ This late-19th-century theater<br />
on the city’s grand boulevard hosts comedy<br />
shows and an occasional English concert or<br />
performance. Pest XIII, Szent István krt. 14. T:<br />
(+36 1) 329 2340, www.vigszinhaz.hu Map F5<br />
OPERA & OPERETTA<br />
BUDAPEST OPERETTA THEATRE Modernized<br />
classic performances are sung in Hungarian, but<br />
subtitled in either English or German, at this richly<br />
decorated theater. Pest VI, Nagymező u. 17. T: (+36<br />
1) 312 4866, www.operett- szinhaz.hu Map F5<br />
ERKEL THEATER This modern musical theater<br />
is part of the State Opera and strives to make<br />
opera and ballet performances accessible to a<br />
wider public. Pest VIII, János Pál pápa tér 30, T:<br />
(+36 1) 814 7100, www.opera.hu Map C8<br />
HUNGARIAN STATE OPERA HOUSE - CLOSED<br />
FOR RENOVATION - This magnificent neo-<br />
Renaissance building offers a variety of classical<br />
and modern opera and ballet. On weekdays,<br />
tours are organized in the afternoon for those<br />
who want to explore the opulent interior. Or,<br />
simply pop into the main hall or café for a peek.<br />
Pest VI, Andrássy út 22, T: (+36 1) 814 7100, www.<br />
opera. hu Map D6<br />
Have you ever seen or dived with six 2 meter long<br />
shark within your arms reach? Have you ever stroked<br />
„angelfaced” rays? Have you ever heard how the<br />
alligators howl? If not, now is high time to visit the<br />
Tropicarium, the shark zoo, where not only the<br />
mentioned animals, but there are hundreds of<br />
exotic reptiles, tropical and freshwater fishes,<br />
free-flying birds, small monkeys too, which you<br />
can admire.<br />
Come with us and<br />
enjoy the atmosphere<br />
of the Tropics!<br />
BUDAPEST ZOO From regal tigers and playful<br />
orangutans to elephants housed in Art Nou-<br />
www.tropicarium.hu<br />
(also in English)<br />
Open: every day<br />
10.00–20.00<br />
JAZZ CLUBS<br />
BUDAPEST JAZZ CLUB Almost daily there are performances<br />
by classical and modern musicians from<br />
Hungary and around the world. Pest XIII, Hollán<br />
Ernő u. 7. T: (+36 70) 413 9837, www.bjc.hu Map F5<br />
COLUMBUS JAZZ PUB Floating musical ship features<br />
performances by talented Hungarian jazz<br />
musicians set to incredible views. Pest V, Vigadó<br />
tér 4 (docked on the Pest riverbank). T: (+36 1)<br />
266 9013, www.colum- buspub.hu Map C4<br />
IF JAZZ CAFE Gifted musicians perform live in this<br />
fashionable but relaxed hangout. Pest IX, Ráday u.<br />
19. T: (+36 1) 299 0694, www.ifkavezo.hu Map A6<br />
LADÓ CAFÉ Enjoy jazz classics performed by<br />
local musicians amid the retro ambience of a<br />
communist-era theater. Pest VII, Dohány u. 50. T:<br />
(+36 70) 350 3929, www.ladocafe. hu Map C7<br />
OPUS JAZZ CLUB Enjoy smooth jazz melodies<br />
at this downtown hotspot for regular live gigs<br />
featuring local and international musicians.<br />
Pest IX, Mátyás u. 8. T: (+36 1) 216 7894, www.<br />
opusjazzclub.hu Map A6<br />
ZOO<br />
14 <strong>WHERE</strong> BUDAPEST I SEPTEMBER <strong>2019</strong>
ENTERTAINMENT<br />
ENTERTAINMENT<br />
MÜPA’s concerts in August<br />
Rachele Andrioli & Rocco<br />
Nigro / Mimmo Epifani &<br />
The Barbers<br />
20 September <strong>2019</strong>, 8 pm,<br />
Festival Theatre<br />
Müpa will be hosting Italy's<br />
finest pizzica groups as part of<br />
the Bridging Europe Festival.<br />
Tambourinist/singer Rachele<br />
Andrioli and accordionist Rocco<br />
Nigro previously played with<br />
some of the finest groups in the<br />
genre. And the mandolin player/<br />
singer Mimmo Epifani is a living<br />
legend in the.<br />
Fonó Band: Atyai ág<br />
(Paternal Branch)<br />
24 September <strong>2019</strong>, 7.30<br />
pm, Béla Bartók National<br />
Concert Hall<br />
Following in the footsteps of<br />
research by Zoltán Kodály, the<br />
Fonó Band explores Hungarian folk<br />
music's Eastern connections. The<br />
award-winning group has based its<br />
repertoire on Hungarian folk music<br />
as well as the instrumental and<br />
vocal traditions of other peoples of<br />
the Carpathian Basin.<br />
Rolando Villazón song recital<br />
1 October <strong>2019</strong>, 7.30 pm,<br />
Béla Bartók National<br />
Concert Hall<br />
He sings, directs operas, manages<br />
festivals, draws cartoons and<br />
writes novels. The world-famous<br />
tenor will be guiding the audience<br />
through a relatively unfamiliar<br />
world: the Spanish and Latin<br />
American songs he has selected<br />
will captivate listeners with their<br />
unique atmosphere, vibrant<br />
temperament and exotic colours.<br />
Photo © ITV/REX Photo © Szilvia Csibi, Müpa<br />
Péter Eötvös<br />
and the<br />
Musikfabrik Köln<br />
17 September <strong>2019</strong><br />
Rolando Villazón<br />
song recital<br />
1 October <strong>2019</strong><br />
Corporate<br />
partner:<br />
Corporate<br />
media partner:<br />
mupa.hu<br />
Müpa Budapest is supported by<br />
the Ministry of Human Capacities<br />
Emberi Erőforrások<br />
Minisztériuma<br />
Tickets are available at Müpa Budapest Ticket Offices and online at www.mupa.hu<br />
For further information, please contact: +36 1 555 3300, +36 1 555 3310<br />
www.wheretraveler.com 15
ART &MUSEUMS<br />
"What matters in life<br />
is not what happens<br />
to you, but what you<br />
remember and how<br />
you remember it.” —<br />
Gabriel García<br />
Márquez<br />
As they traveled through different cities,<br />
Tomas Opitz and Bea Puskás were<br />
captivated by the local photography<br />
scenes they encountered along the way. Opitz,<br />
who studied architecture in Venezuela, and Puskás,<br />
who has degrees in geology and cultural<br />
management, were particularly inspired by the<br />
works of Latin American photographers. Buoyed<br />
by these international experiences, they opened<br />
the petite TOBE Gallery in Budapest’s offbeat<br />
District VIII, now one of the city’s hubs for<br />
thought-provoking art, in 2013.<br />
“When we were wondering what to do together,<br />
we felt that in a country with such a rich<br />
photography legacy there was a shortage of<br />
galleries that focused solely on contemporary<br />
works from the genre. It was a missing segment.”<br />
explains Puskás. “We also wanted to bring new<br />
colors to Budapest. That’s why we started with<br />
Latin American artists. They have different visions<br />
and motivations.”<br />
Now working with 18 artists, 11 of them with Latin<br />
American roots, seven of them Hungarian, Opitz<br />
and Puskás are constantly on the move yet again,<br />
attending art fairs and festivals around Europe like<br />
MIA Photo Fair in Milan, Photo London,<br />
viennacontemporary, and the Rencontres d’Arles in<br />
France to reach potential buyers and collectors and<br />
“strengthen the presence of Hungarian art and<br />
photography,” points out Opitz.<br />
For the first half of <strong>2019</strong>, Opitz and Puskás delved<br />
into the theme of memory, putting female artists<br />
including Barcelona-based Carla Tabora, Cristina<br />
Kahlo from Mexico City, and Budapest’s Anikó<br />
Robitz in the spotlight. Now, after a summer spent<br />
on Lake Balaton, where TOBE Gallery curated the<br />
exhibition Bodybuilding at the Pegazus gallery,<br />
the pair is back in Budapest to present the<br />
Scattered Cities exhibition this month (September<br />
3-10). It features the works of Rio de Janeiro<br />
photographer Bruno Veiga, who first started<br />
shooting in the 1980s for Brazilian newspapers.<br />
Later in the fall and winter, there will be exhibitions<br />
devoted to Hungarian, London-based Bálint<br />
Álovits and photo-collage creations by Gustavo<br />
Blanco-Uribe, a Venezuelan multi-disciplinary artist<br />
living in Madrid.<br />
TOBE Gallery has nurtured a burgeoning<br />
contemporary photography scene in Budapest, but<br />
it’s only the beginning for Opitz and Puskás. Says<br />
Opitz, “What we consider necessary is a closer<br />
relationship between galleries, between galleries<br />
and institutions, and between galleries, institutions,<br />
and collectors.” Bródy Sándor u. 36, tobegallery.hu<br />
16 <strong>WHERE</strong> BUDAPEST I JANUARY SEPTEMBER <strong>2019</strong> <strong>2019</strong>
MUSEUMS & GALLERIES<br />
ART MUSEUMS<br />
CAPA CENTER Honoring the Hungarian-born<br />
maverick photographer Robert Capa, this center<br />
for photography offers illuminating displays.<br />
Pest VI, Nagymező u. 8. T: (+36 1) 413 1310, Open<br />
Mon- Sun, www.capacenter.hu Map D6<br />
EAST ASIAN ART MUSEUM FERENC HOPP Fascinating<br />
artifacts from throughout the Far East<br />
displayed in a grand mansion. Open Wed-Sun.<br />
Pest VI, Andrássy út 103. Map F7<br />
LUDWIG MUSEUM A permanent collection and<br />
temporary exhibitions of contemporary works<br />
by Hungarian and international artists (with<br />
an emphasis on Central-European and Russian<br />
artists), located at the Palace of Arts. Open Tue-<br />
Sun untill 8pm. Pest IX, Komor Marcell u. 1. T:<br />
(+36 1) 555 3444, www.lumu.hu Off Map<br />
MAI MANÓ The Hungarian House of Photography<br />
presents a range of exhibitions by international<br />
and contemporary, local artists . Open<br />
Mon-Fri 2pm-7pm and Sat-Sun 11am-7pm. Pest<br />
VI, Nagymező u. 20. T: (+36 1) 473 2669, www.<br />
maimano.hu Map D6<br />
MŰCSARNOK (KUNSTHALLE) Rotating contemporary<br />
exhibitions of modern art and design<br />
are juxtaposed with its setting in an old, ornate<br />
building. Open Tue-Sun, closed on Mon and<br />
Thurs morning. Pest XIV, Heroes’ Square. T: (+36<br />
1) 460 7000, www.mucsarnok.hu Map F8<br />
FINE ARTS MUSEUM A bountiful collection of Egyptian<br />
antiquities, Old Master paintings, and the Old<br />
Hungarian Collection, encompassing works from<br />
the eleventh century to 1800. Pest XIV, Heroes’<br />
Square. T: (+36 1) 469 7100, www.mfab.hu Map F8<br />
NATIONAL GALLERY Along with the various<br />
permanent exhibitions of Hungarian fine art<br />
focusing on paintings from the 18th, 19th, and<br />
20th centuries, this museum organizes many<br />
illuminating temporary exhibitions. Open Tue-<br />
Sun. Buda I, Royal Palace, Szent György tér 2. T:<br />
(+36 1) 201 9082, www.mng.hu Map C3-4<br />
a restored palace. Open Tue-Sun. Buda I, Royal<br />
Palace (Wing E). T: (+36 1) 487 8800, www. btm.<br />
hu Map C3<br />
HOLOCAUST MEMORIAL CENTER Permanent<br />
exhibition on the forces that led to the<br />
Hungarian Holocaust, alongside timely and<br />
insightful temporary exhibits on social issues.<br />
Pest IX, Páva u. 39. Open Tue-Sun. T: (+36 1) 455<br />
3333, www.hdke. hu Map A7<br />
HOSPITAL IN THE ROCK This WWII-era medical<br />
facility, later a secret nuclear bunker, is found in<br />
the tunnels and caves underneath Castle Hill. A<br />
fascinating one-hour tour kicks off with a short<br />
documentary about Hungary’s 20th-century<br />
history. Open Mon-Sun. Buda I, Lovas u. 4/C. T:<br />
(+36 70) 701 0101, www.sziklakorhaz.eu Map D3<br />
HOUSE OF TERROR MUSEUM Infamous as the<br />
headquarters for fascists in the 1940s and then<br />
the communist secret service, this building is<br />
now a memorial museum. Open Tue-Sun. Pest<br />
VI, Andrássy út 60. T: (+36 1) 374 2600, www.terrorhaza.hu<br />
Map E6<br />
HUNGARIAN RAILWAY MUSEUM An open-air<br />
museum on a former rail yard with an amazing<br />
collection of vintage engines and other<br />
objects. Visitors can also ride several models of<br />
rail vehicles. Easily reachable from Nyugati and<br />
Keleti Stations. Open Apr-Nov (Mon closed).<br />
Pest XIV, Tatai út 95. T: (+36 1) 450 1497, www.<br />
vasuttortenetipark.hu/en<br />
IMRE VARGA COLLECTION An ode to the Hungarian<br />
sculptor, featuring originals . Buda III,<br />
Laktanya utca 7, (Óbuda), www.budapestgaleria.hu<br />
Off Map<br />
KASSÁK MUSEUM Lajos Kassák was was one of<br />
the first Hungarian working-class writers of<br />
the early 20th century. The museum exhibits<br />
graphics, prints, periodicals, and drawings<br />
connected to his work. Buda III, Fő tér 1. www.<br />
kassakmuzeum.hu Off Map<br />
KISCELLI MUSEUM Paintings, sculptures, drawings,<br />
coins, and medals are exhibited in a regal<br />
Buda estate. Open Tue-Fri. Buda III, Kiscelli u.<br />
108. T: (+36 1) 250 0304 www.kiscellimuzeum.<br />
hu Off Map<br />
LISZT FERENC MUSEUM The house where the<br />
composer used to live (1881-1886) when in<br />
Budapest is a small museum with original<br />
furniture, musical instruments, memorabilia,<br />
and transcripts. There is also a small concert<br />
hall, part of the original Academy of Music that<br />
he founded. Buda VI, Vörösmarty u. 35, T: (+36<br />
1) 413 0440 www.lisztmuseum.hu Map E7<br />
MIKSA RÓTH MEMORIAL HOUSE The former<br />
home of this Hungarian stained-glass master<br />
features some of his original furniture and<br />
works. The exhibition is primarily in Hungarian.<br />
Pest VII, Nefelejcs u. 26. T: (+36 1) 341 6789<br />
www.rothmuze- um.hu Map D8<br />
SPECIALTY MUSEUMS<br />
AQUINCUM MUSEUM Ancient ruins from the<br />
2,000-year-old capital of a Roman province are<br />
complemented by a museum with restored<br />
mosaics and wall paintings. Open Tue-Sun.<br />
Buda III, Szentendrei út 135. T: (+36 1) 250 1650,<br />
www. aquincum.hu Off Map<br />
ARANY SAS PHARMACY MUSEUM Buda’ s oldest<br />
pharmacy, the “Golden Eagle” is recreated<br />
in the Castle District. Open Tue-Sun. Buda I,<br />
Tárnok u. 18. T: (+36 1) 375-9772, www.semmelweismuseum.hu<br />
Map D3<br />
ARMY HEADQUARTERS BUILDING After seven<br />
decades, and many unrealized renovation<br />
plans, this former army headquarters is open to<br />
the public again, hosting various exhibits and<br />
cultural events. Buda I, Dísz tér 17. Map C-D3<br />
BÉLA BARTÓK MEMORIAL HOUSE The house<br />
where the composer lived before he emigrated<br />
from Hungary to the U.S., is now a museum,<br />
with original furniture and Bartók’s folk-art<br />
collection, photos, and letters. Open Tue-Sat.<br />
Buda II, Csalán út 29. T: (+36 1) 394 2100, www.<br />
bartokmuseum. hu Off Map<br />
CASTLE MUSEUM Part of the Budapest History<br />
Museum, this permanent exhibition is set amid<br />
‘‘<br />
A Grande Dame Returns<br />
The recent renovation of the Museum of Fine Arts, which first opened<br />
in 1906, is an invitation to visit. Among the collections of international<br />
and Hungarian art (before 1800), don’t miss the sculpture collection,<br />
including pieces by the Renaissance-era Andrea del Verrocchio and<br />
Austrian baroque works by Georg Rafael Donner.<br />
‘‘<br />
www.wheretraveler.com 17
MUSEUMS & GALLERIES<br />
‘‘<br />
Visual Memory<br />
Roman Uranjek and Radenko Milak, artists of different generations, were both reared in the former Yugoslavia.<br />
Since 2014 the two have been collaborating on DATES, a meditative form of cultural and political activism that<br />
asks questions about science, art, and society. Ani Molnár Gallery presents their latest works in DATES 9. Uranjek’s<br />
collage of images culled from different periods of history stitches together a bold, surprising narrative and Milak<br />
explores 20th-century Hungary by transforming photojournalism images into monochrome watercolors. An<br />
interplay of past and present, these pieces suggest that the ideal of future progress is all too often trumped by the<br />
repetition of history. Through October 5; Bródy Sándor u. 36, molnaranigaleria.hu<br />
NATIONAL MUSEUM A deep dive into Hungary’s<br />
history, beginning with the nation’s foundation.<br />
A one-hour English tour on Thursdays at 11am<br />
requires registration. Open Tue-Sun. Pest VIII,<br />
Múzeum krt. 14-16. T: (+36 1) 338 2122, www.<br />
mnm.hu Map B6<br />
NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM An educational<br />
complex that features an aquarium, a whale<br />
skeleton, fossils, and stuffed animals, with<br />
descriptions primarily in Hungarian. Open Wed-<br />
Sun. Pest VIII, Ludovika tér 2-6. T: (+36 1) 210<br />
1085, www.nhmus.hu Off Map<br />
SEMMELWEIS MUSEUM The history of Western<br />
medicine, with special emphasis on Hungary<br />
and the work of Hungarian doctor Ignaz Semmelweis,<br />
an early pioneer of antiseptics. Open<br />
Tue-Sun, Buda I, Apród utca 1-3. T: (+ 36 1) 375<br />
3533, www.semmelweis.museum.hu, Map C4<br />
STATUE PARK Huge statues of Marx, Lenin, and<br />
other communist-era figures fill this open-air<br />
park. Open daily 10am- dusk. Direct buses leave<br />
Deák tér daily from 11am. Buda XXII, Balatoni út/<br />
Szabadkai u. T: (+36 1) 424 7500, www.mementopark.hu<br />
Off Map<br />
VÁRKERT BAZAAR At the foot of Buda Castle,<br />
these neo-renaissance palaces house several<br />
permanent and temporary exhibitions, including<br />
the Hungaricon (objects from or by famous<br />
Hungarian personalities), and a wooden<br />
model of Buda. In the gardens are two festival<br />
grounds. Buda I, Miklós Ybl tér. T: (+36 1) 225<br />
0310, www. varkertbazar.hu Map C4<br />
VASARLY MUSEUM Hidden away in Old Buda<br />
(Óbuda), this museum is dedicated to one of<br />
the major Hungarian avant-garde artists from<br />
the 20th century. Victor Vasarély was born in<br />
Hungary, lived and worked most of his life in<br />
Paris, and is considered the grandfather of<br />
the Op Art movement of the 1950s. Buda III,<br />
Szentlélek tér 6, www.vasarely.hu Off Map<br />
ART GALLERIES<br />
ACB GALLERY Leading contemporary Hungarian<br />
artworks. Open Tue-Fri 2pm-6pm. Pest VI, Király<br />
u. 76. T: (+36 1) 413 7608, www.acbgaleria. hu<br />
Map D6<br />
ARI KUPSUS GALLERY This unconventional<br />
gallery hosts 10 contemporary shows a year,<br />
featuring a diverse blend of Hungarian and<br />
international artists. Pest VIII, Bródy Sándor u.<br />
‘‘<br />
23/B. T: (+36 20) 322 0334, www.arikupsusgallery.com<br />
Map C7<br />
ART + TEXT This space focuses on post-war and<br />
contemporary art and photography. Pest V,<br />
Honvéd u. 3. T: (+36 20) 935 9889, www. artplustextbudapest.com<br />
Map E5<br />
CHIMERA-PROJECT This contemporary art incubator<br />
celebrates the roots of the Hungarian<br />
neo-avant garde . Open Tue-Fri 3pm-6pm or<br />
upon appointment. Pest VII, Klauzál tér 5. www.<br />
chimera-project.com Map C6<br />
DEÁK ERIKA GALÉRIA Cutting-edge showcase of<br />
young Hungarian artists, many in new media.<br />
Open Wed-Fri noon-6pm and Sat 11am-4pm.<br />
Pest VI, Mozsár u. 1. T: (+36 1) 201 3740, www.<br />
deakgaleria. hu Map D6<br />
ERNST GALÉRIA Showcasing venerable Hungarian<br />
and international fine arts, antiques, paintings,<br />
film posters, and more in two locations.<br />
Its aim is to introduce Hungarian painters to<br />
the international context, namely to private<br />
and public collections in Hungary and abroad.<br />
www. ernstgaleria.hu Pest V, Irányi u. 27. T: (+36<br />
1) 266 4016 Map B5<br />
FAUR ZSÓFI-RÁDAY GALÉRIA One of the first<br />
Hungarian private galleries after the change of<br />
PHOTO: RADENKO MILAK AND ROMAN URANJEK, APRIL 23, 1924, JULIE KNIFER IS BORN, 2015, MIXED MEDIA, 71 X 161 CM, COURTESY OF ANI MOLNÁR GALLERY<br />
18 <strong>WHERE</strong> BUDAPEST I SEPTEMBER <strong>2019</strong>
MUSEUMS & GALLERIES<br />
the regime, it showcases Hungarian contemporary<br />
fine art and photography. Open Mon-Fri<br />
noon-6pm. Buda XI, Bartók Bela út 25. T: (+36 1)<br />
209 3635, www.galeriafaur.hu Map A4<br />
INDA Since 2006, Inda has highlighted the works<br />
of contemporary artists in a wide range of<br />
media, including painting, drawing, sculpture,<br />
video, and photography.. T: (+36 1) 413<br />
1960. Pest VI, Király u. 34. www.indagaleria.hu<br />
Map D6<br />
KARTON A sleek and modern gallery hosting<br />
regular art exhibitions in a variety of mediums.<br />
Open Mon-Fri 1pm-6pm. Pest V, Alkotmány u.<br />
18. T: (+36 1) 427 0000, www.karton.hu Map E5<br />
KIESELBACH GALLERY Viewings and auctions of<br />
high-quality classical Hungarian and international<br />
paintings. Open Mon-Sun 10am-6pm.<br />
Pest V, Szt. István krt. 5. T: (+36 1) 269 3148, www.<br />
kieselbach. hu Map F5<br />
KISTEREM Representing local artists, Kisterem<br />
hosts exhibitions that explore a wide variety<br />
of genres, including drawing, sculpture, and<br />
multi- textured models fashioned out of everyday<br />
materials. Open Tue-Fri 2pm–6pm. Pest,<br />
Képíró u. 5. T: (+36 1) 267 0522, www.kisterem.<br />
hu Map B6<br />
KNOLL GALÉRIA BUDAPEST As one of Pest’s first<br />
private galleries after the fall of the Soviet Bloc,<br />
this pioneering institution helped develop<br />
the independent art scene by cultivating fresh<br />
Hungarian and foreign talent. Open Tue-Sat.<br />
Pest VI, Liszt Ferenc tér 10. T: (+36 1) 267 3842,<br />
www.knollgaleria.hu Map D6<br />
KOGART HOUSE The museum is home to the<br />
Gábor Kovács Art Collection, covering Hungarian<br />
art ranging from the beginning of the 18th<br />
until the mid-20th century. Located in a beautiful<br />
villa close to Heroes’ Square. Open Mon-Fri.<br />
Pest VI, Andrássy út 112. T: (+36 1) 354 3820,<br />
www.kogart. hu Map F7<br />
KOLLER GALLERY Elegantly situated in Budapest’s<br />
Castle District, specializing in contemporary<br />
etchings and graphics. Open daily 10am-<br />
6pm. Buda I, Táncsics Mihály u. 5. T: (+36 1) 356<br />
9208, www.kollergaleria.hu Map D3<br />
LUMAS BUDAPEST A sun-lit setting for intriguing<br />
photography that aims to demystify art collecting.<br />
Pest V, Október 6. u. 21. T: (+36 1) 301 0833,<br />
www.lumas. com Map D5<br />
MOLNÁR ANI GALLERY Artists of many generations<br />
and mediums, with a preference for<br />
experimental materials, show their intriguing,<br />
high-quality pieces in an intimate environment.<br />
Open Tue-Fri noon-6pm. Pest VIII, Bródy Sándor<br />
u. 36. T: (+36 1) 327 0095, www.molnaranigaleria.<br />
hu Map B7<br />
MORÓ ANTIK An antique store specializing in old<br />
guns, rapiers, and sophisticated canes. Open<br />
Mon-Fri 10am-6pm and Sat 10am-1pm. Pest V,<br />
Falk Miksa u. 13. T: (+36 1) 311 0814, www.moroantik.hu<br />
Map F5<br />
NAGYHÁZI GALLERY AND AUCTION HOUSE One<br />
of the city’s oldest antique shops, offering furniture,<br />
paintings, and lamps. Pest V, Balaton u. 8.<br />
T: (+36 1) 475 6000, www.nagyhazi.hu Map F5<br />
TOBE GALLERY This gallery is focused on Ibero-<br />
American and Hungarian contemporary photography<br />
and collage art. Regular exhibitions<br />
by Hungarian and international artists. Open<br />
Wed-Fri 2pm-6pm, Sat 11am-3pm. Pest VIII,<br />
Bródy Sándor u. 36. T: (+36 20) 484 0490, www.<br />
tobegallery.hu Map B7<br />
VÁRFOK GALÉRIA One of Buda’s few contemporary<br />
galleries, showing works by renowned<br />
and up-and-coming Hungarian artists. Open<br />
Tue-Sat 11am-6pm. Buda I, Várfok u. 11. T: (+36 1)<br />
213 5155, www.varfok-galeria.hu Map E2<br />
VILTIN Hungarian paintings, sculptures, and photography<br />
are displayed in this contemporary<br />
gallery. Open Tue-Sat. Pest VI, Vasvári Pál u. 1. T:<br />
(+36 1) 787 5866, www.viltin.hu Map D6<br />
VINTAGE Displaying both contemporary and<br />
modern works by Hungarian artists, Vintage is<br />
a good place to view photography and new<br />
media. Pest V, Magyar u. 26. T: (+36 20) 913 6291,<br />
www. vintage.hu Map B6<br />
VIRÁG JUDIT This gallery, located on Pest’s famed<br />
antiques street, presents Zsolnay ceramics and<br />
high quality Hungarian paintings from the 19th<br />
and 20th centuries, as well as organizes regular<br />
auctions, along with a variety of thematic exhibitions.<br />
Pest V, Falk Miksa u. 30. T: (36 1) 312 2071,<br />
www.viragjuditgaleria.hu Map F5<br />
SZENTENDRE<br />
BARCSAY COLLECTION Small color compositions<br />
and study drawings in the constructivist style<br />
by Jenő Barcsay, inside a Szentendre home.<br />
Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. Szentendre 2000,<br />
Dumtsa Jenő u. 10. T: (+36 20) 779 6657, www.<br />
muzeumi- centrum.hu Off Map<br />
Salvador Dalí: Dormeuse, cheval, lion invisibles, 1930. Centre Pompidou,<br />
MNAM-CCI/Philippe Migeat/Dist. RMN-GP © Salvador Dalí,<br />
Fundació Gala-Salvador Dali / Adagp, Paris<br />
BÉLA CZÓBEL MUSEUM This small museum<br />
showcases the work of one of the most important<br />
modernist painters of Hungary, who<br />
introduced the post-impressionist style to the<br />
country. Open Tue-Sun 10am- 6pm. Szentendre<br />
2000, Templom tér 1, T: (+36 20) 742 3145, ,<br />
www.muzeumicentrum.hu Off Map<br />
FERENCZY MUSEUM Károly Ferenczy is considered<br />
the father of Hungarian impressionist<br />
painting. He was one of the founders of the<br />
Nagybánya artist colony and later lived and<br />
worked here. Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. Szentendre<br />
2000, Kossuth Lajos u. 5, T: (+36 20) 779<br />
6657, ww.muzeumicentrum.hu Off Map<br />
MARGIT KOVÁCS MUSEUM Drawing from folk<br />
and Byzantine influences, this famous 20thcentury<br />
ceramic sculptor reached high fame<br />
throughout Hungary. Open daily 10am-6pm.<br />
Szentendre 2000, Vastagh György u. 1. T: (+36<br />
20) 779 6651 Szentendre 2000, Templom tér 1,<br />
www. muzeumicentrum.hu Off Map<br />
MŰVÉSZETMALOM Once a spice mill, now it<br />
houses regular contemporary exhibitions.<br />
Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. Szentendre 2000,<br />
Bogdányi u. 32. T: (+36 20) 779 6657, www.<br />
muzeumicentrum. hu Off Map<br />
SERBIAN ORTHODOX CHURCHES There is an exceptional<br />
Orthodox church on Fő tér (closed<br />
on Mondays) and another more ornate,<br />
18th-century Baroque one, which doubles<br />
as an ecclesiastical museum. (Pátriárka u. 5.).<br />
Off Map<br />
An exhibition organised by the Centre Pompidou, Paris and the Museum of Fine Arts – Hungarian National Gallery, Budapest.<br />
Major Sponsor:<br />
28 June – 20 October <strong>2019</strong><br />
Hungarian national gallery<br />
Corporate Partners:<br />
en.mng.hu<br />
www.wheretraveler.com 19
SHOPS & SERVICES<br />
“I can’t think without<br />
my glasses.” —<br />
Vivienne Westwood<br />
Upon entering the Tipton Eyeworks<br />
showroom in District V, the first<br />
thing one notices is the<br />
assortment of good-looking glasses on<br />
display. Largely in black and flaunting a<br />
contemporary style, they are arranged<br />
reverently and elegantly, as if they were in a<br />
gallery. There is an impressive stash of<br />
vinyl that also grabs attention, and<br />
throughout the day different albums<br />
make their way onto the record player,<br />
Madonna, say, followed by Louis<br />
Armstrong. Showcasing these objects<br />
alongside each other is not<br />
coincidental.<br />
Upscale yet quirky, Tipton Eyeworks,<br />
which features an assembly workshop in<br />
back, is the brainchild of Zachary Tipton. Born in<br />
Idaho to a Hungarian mother, Tipton grew up in<br />
the States, Socialist-era Hungary, and other<br />
locations in between.<br />
In the 1990s, when he was living in Seattle, his<br />
vision started to suffer. With a knack for carpentry<br />
(“I made my own guitars,” Tipton recalls), the<br />
ambitious Tipton set out to craft his own<br />
pair of eyeglasses, tinkering<br />
unsuccessfully with various<br />
plastics. When he observed<br />
his father’s stack of old<br />
records in the garage, the<br />
idea for Vinylize was<br />
sparked and he began<br />
transforming vinyl into<br />
frames with the help of<br />
cigar box hinges.<br />
Although he had been<br />
embracing vinyl since 1998, it<br />
wasn’t until 2004 that Tipton<br />
officially launched his prescriptionready<br />
eyewear collection in Budapest,<br />
producing them in a one-time Communist<br />
eyeglass factory he apprenticed at for three years<br />
with vinyl sourced from Europe’s last pressing plant.<br />
Over the last 15 years, Vinylize’s presence has grown<br />
significantly in Budapest and beyond, with celebrities<br />
like Robbie Williams and Questlove clamoring for the<br />
frames. Musicians in particular seem to gravitate<br />
towards Vinylize. At the Sziget festival, for example,<br />
which takes place on a Budapest island every August,<br />
bespoke glasses are made for the headliners from<br />
the musicians’ own records. Likewise, through a<br />
licensing deal with AC/DC, polarized sunglasses are<br />
spawned from the Australian rock band’s 12” vinyl<br />
Back in Black album.<br />
Tipton’s experimental nature has led him to make<br />
glasses with the likes of recycled film strips (a pair<br />
was ordered for Elton John’s birthday) and dyed<br />
vinyl, but other than the abundance of custom<br />
orders, he’s devoted solely to the classic Vinylize<br />
collection now. “I want to focus on one brand with<br />
one purpose,” he says. Irányi u. 20; tiptonbudapest.<br />
com; vinylize.com<br />
SPECIAL OFFER TO <strong>WHERE</strong> READERS: BRING YOUR<br />
COPY OF THE MAGAZINE TO TIPTON EYEWORKS,<br />
AND YOU’LL BE TREATED TO A COMPLIMENTARY<br />
EYE EXAM (VALUE=10,000 HUF), AVAILABLE<br />
MONDAY THROUGH SATURDAY<br />
20 <strong>WHERE</strong> BUDAPEST I SEPTEMBER <strong>2019</strong>
SHOPS & SERVICES<br />
ACCESSORIES<br />
COCCINELLE Handbags and accessories that<br />
capture the modern woman: dynamic, glamorous,<br />
and urban. This Italian brand is especially<br />
known for its production quality. Pest VI,<br />
Andrássy út 13. T: (+36 70) 261 5050, www.coccinelle.com<br />
Map D6<br />
FREYWILLE Viennese fine jeweler with distinctive<br />
enameled gold designs in artistic and timeless<br />
styles. Bracelets, rings, necklaces, and more<br />
are inspired by the works of Mucha, Klimt,<br />
and other renowned artists. www.frey-wille.<br />
com Pest VI, Andrássy út 43. T: (+36 1) 413 0174<br />
Map D6<br />
FURLA Synonymous with high quality, Furla<br />
hand- bags display elegance, femininity, and<br />
ornate detailing, handcrafted in Italy by skilled<br />
artisans according to age-old leather-making<br />
traditions. There is a wide selection of hobos,<br />
satchels, totes, and evening bags. Pest V,<br />
Fashion Street - Deák Ferenc u. 23. T: (+36 1) 328<br />
0851, www.furla.com Map C5<br />
HARD ROCK SHOP This Hard Rock Cafe retail<br />
outpost offers a full selection of goods including<br />
pins, T-shirts, and glassware. Open Sun-Thu<br />
10am-1am and Fri-Sat 10am-2am. Pest V, Deák<br />
Ferenc u. 3. (at Vörösmarty tér). www.facebook.<br />
com/hardrockcafebudapest Map C5<br />
MARCO BICEGO Marco Bicego is known for his<br />
handmade 18-carat gold jewelry adorned with<br />
gemstones and inspired by nature. Pest VI,<br />
Andrássy út 13. T: (+36 1) 328 0117, www.marcobicego.com<br />
Map D6<br />
ORANGE OPTIKA Selection of glasses from such<br />
brands as KunoQvist, Minima, François Pinton,<br />
and Pilgrim. Pest VI, Király u. 38. T: (+36 1) 243<br />
2931, www. orangeoptika.hu Map D6<br />
TIPTON EYEWORKS Inspired by his father’s stash<br />
of old records, American-Hungarian designer<br />
Zachary Tipton Milaskey began crafting glasses<br />
with vinyl frames. Pest V, Irányi u. 20. T: (+36 1)<br />
786 1080, www.tiptonbudapest. com Map B5<br />
VARGA DESIGN Radiant jewelry designed by<br />
metal mastermind Miklós Varga. The sophisticated<br />
line mixes interwoven metals with<br />
expertly applied diamonds and pearls. Pest V,<br />
Haris köz 6. T: (+36 1) 318 4089, www.vargadesign.<br />
hu Map C5<br />
CLOTHING<br />
FASHION STREET Top international brands are<br />
found on, or near, Deák Ferenc Street, also<br />
known as Fashion Street, including Massimo<br />
Dutti, Furla, and Hungary’s own Nanushka.<br />
Pest V, Deák Ferenc utca. www.fashionstreet.<br />
hu Map C5<br />
ÁERON Born into a textile dynasty, designer<br />
Eszter Áron says her childhood experiences<br />
influenced her aesthetics. The Áeron brand is<br />
known for its clean, sharp lines and exquisite<br />
craftsmanship. Pest V, Zrínyi u. 4. www.aeron.<br />
hu Map D4<br />
ANDA Sleek clothing with simple lines and rich<br />
fabrics from Hungarian designer Emilia Anda.<br />
Pest V, Galamb u. 4. T: (+36 30) 933 9746, www.<br />
andaemi.com Map B5<br />
BARBARA LÉBER Sophisticated wedding dresses<br />
and evening clothes by a Hungarian designer.<br />
By appointment only. Buda XII, Alkotás u. 39/c.<br />
T: (+36 20) 955 5686, www.leberbarbara.hu<br />
Map C2<br />
BERLIN STORE BUDAPEST This store is devoted<br />
to Hungarian designers, where guests can get<br />
to know a number of local labels including<br />
Sandor Lakatos, Mei Kawa, Alma Abonyi, Anna<br />
Amélie, Kata Szegedi, NYD, Vanda Ferencz,<br />
Manier, and Aarion. Pest VI, Andrássy út 18.<br />
www.facebook.com/berlinstorebudapest<br />
Map D6<br />
BP CLOTHING This brand offers urban streetwear<br />
for men and women, boasting the initials BP in<br />
tribute to Budapest. The collection consists of<br />
hoodies, shirts, sweatshirts, funky phone cases,<br />
and other accessories. Pest VII, Wesselényi<br />
utca 24. T: (+36 70) 409 5114, www.bpshop.hu<br />
Map C6<br />
BURBERRY Dignified fashions from England.<br />
Collections for men, women, and children,<br />
renowned for functional outerwear like the<br />
timeless trench coat. Pest VI, Andrássy út 24. T:<br />
(+36 1) 302 0628, www.burberry.com Map D6<br />
DAALARNA Wedding dresses and special occasion<br />
wear by Hungarian designer Anita Benes.<br />
Her designs are feminine, chic, and elegant.<br />
Open Mon- Fri noon-8pm. Pest V, Alkotmány<br />
u. 16. T: (+36 30) 306 4094, www.daalarna.hu<br />
Map E5<br />
DÓRA MÓJZES Urban, reckless, and cool, clothes<br />
by Hungarian designer Dóra Mójzes definitely<br />
attract attention while also reflecting subtle<br />
femininity. Her line, Y.ld, is available at Retrock:<br />
Pest VI, Anker köz 2-4. www.retrock. com<br />
Map C5<br />
JE SUIS BELLE Translating to “I am beautiful,” two<br />
local fashionistas design graceful and playful<br />
clothes for customers who live up to the<br />
boutique’s name. Open Mon-Sat. Pest VI, Paulay<br />
Ede u. 67. T: (+36 70) 220 1044, www. jesuisbelle.<br />
hu Map B5<br />
KATA SZEGEDI As an emerging artist, Kata Szegedi<br />
designs innovative and modern clothes<br />
for independent and cosmopolitan women.<br />
The label experiments with silhouettes, shapes,<br />
textures, and colors. Pest V, Fehér Hajó u. 12-14.<br />
www.kataszegedi.com Map C5<br />
KATTI ZOÓB Modern tailoring by the acclaimed<br />
Hungarian designer, who has helped shape<br />
the Hungarian fashion scene for more than 20<br />
years. Pest V, Szent István krt. 17. T: (+36 30) 657<br />
5794, www.kattizoob.hu Map E5<br />
LÁTOMÁS Contemporary women’s fashion boutique<br />
offering cutting-edge clothing and oneof-a-kind<br />
accessories. www.latomas.hu Pest VII,<br />
Király u. 39. T: (+36 1) 786 6659 Map C6; and Pest<br />
VII, Dohány u. 16-18. T: (+36 1) 267 2158 Map C6<br />
LUCKY SHEPHERD This store offers a curated<br />
collection of high-quality Hungarian brands.<br />
Visitors can find everything from everyday to<br />
formal wear, along with leather accessories.<br />
Designers include Gabo Szerencses, Juhaszdora,<br />
and Paperreka. Buda II, Fő u. 63. www.<br />
luckyshepherd.com Map E3<br />
www.wheretraveler.com 21
SHOPS & SERVICES | PRODUCTS<br />
Nanushka<br />
The Hungarian brand by now has a worldwide<br />
fan base. Her spring-summer collection<br />
features natural creams and whites fused with<br />
pinks, blues and burnt orange. Listing p.23.<br />
Adrienne Feller<br />
uses aromatherapy and essential oils to<br />
create balance. Their new mineral sunscreens<br />
protect the skin from the harmful rays. www.<br />
adriennefellerwebshop.hu<br />
Fröccs<br />
Fröccs, a popular summer beverage, is a mixed<br />
chilled drink of wine diluted with soda water.<br />
Fresh enough to quench your thirst, fizzy like a<br />
soda, and just enough wine to chill the mind.<br />
Printa<br />
Printa works with local artists, using<br />
upcycled, organic materials to create unique<br />
and environmental-friendly clothing and<br />
gifts. Their cotton Ts are cool in more ways<br />
than one! www.printa.hu<br />
HIT<br />
REFRESH<br />
early<br />
autumn<br />
gifts<br />
Ice cream<br />
The staff at Gelarto Rosa near the Bazilika<br />
use a special spatula to form the roseshaped<br />
ice creams that pop up on every<br />
Instagram feed dedicated to Budapest.<br />
Pest V, Szent István tér 3.<br />
Omorovicza<br />
is a luxury skincare brand using the curative<br />
effects of thermal water. Their new release<br />
recharges your skin with Vitamin C for a<br />
fresh complexion. Listing, p.25.<br />
Tipton<br />
recycles old vinyl records and turns them<br />
into sunglasses. Zachary Tipton Milaskey’s<br />
brain child makes for a unique gift to take<br />
home. Listing p.21.<br />
Organic Fruit<br />
For the freshest fuit & veg head to the MOM<br />
Organic Market housing only certified organic<br />
producers. Open Sat 6:30am-1pm, Buda XII,<br />
Csörsz u.18. www.facebook.com/okopiac<br />
22 <strong>WHERE</strong> BUDAPEST I SEPTEMBER <strong>2019</strong>
SHOPS & SERVICES<br />
MANIER Founded by Anikó Nemeth in 1992, the<br />
magic ambience of this showroom combines<br />
a passion for luxury fabrics, objects, and<br />
colors with elements of fantasy. Pest VI, Dalszínház<br />
u.10. T: (+36 1) 483 1140, www.manier.<br />
hu Map B5<br />
NANUSHKA Szandra Sándor, who studied in<br />
London, combines playful cuts and lush fabrics<br />
with elegance and comfort in her designs.<br />
Pest V, Bécsi u. 3. T: (+36 70) 394 1954, www.<br />
nanushka.hu Map C5<br />
NUBU This Hungarian fashion label creates<br />
fluid, versatile pieces. Expect sophisticated,<br />
modern, and clean designs with unique cuts,<br />
comfort, and soft colors. NUBU is inspired<br />
by contemporary architecture, fine arts,<br />
and product design. Flagship store: Pest VI,<br />
Andrássy út 13. T: (+36 70) 607 4903, Map D6<br />
NUBU MOM Park shopping center: Buda XII,<br />
Alkotás u. 53. T: (+36 20) 480 1990, www.nubu.<br />
hu Map B2<br />
ONE FASHION Get to know the different Hungarian<br />
designers and styles at this multi-brand<br />
store. Pest IX, Ráday u. 9. T: (+36 20) 378 3795,<br />
www.onefashionbudapest.com Map B6<br />
OPEN SHOWROOM Serving as a showroom,<br />
creative workspace, and shop, OPEN offers<br />
modern bags, jewelry, and clothing by Hungarian<br />
designers. The shop also hosts regular<br />
workshops. Open Mon-Fri 2pm- 7pm. Pest V,<br />
Nyáry Pál utca 5. Map D5<br />
PUNCH STORE Feminine, multi-brand store in<br />
the heart of Budapest, offering contemporary<br />
women's clothing, leather bags, fine jewelry,<br />
and hats from brands like Anna Amélie, Anna<br />
Daubner, dorivisy, Lindamelinda, and Vecsei<br />
Millinery. Pest VI, Paulay Ede u. 15. T: (+36 30)<br />
386 4890, www.facebook.com/punchstorebudapest<br />
Map D5<br />
RÉKA VÁGÓ One-time dancer Réka Vágó knows<br />
how to make quality, comfortable shoes that<br />
women can wear while partying the night<br />
away. Educated at Moholy-Nagy University<br />
and London College of Fashion, the designer<br />
is one of the most recognized names in<br />
footwear. Mero Showroom: Pest VII, Kertész u.<br />
40. Open Tue-Sat 11am-8pm. www.rekavago.<br />
com Map D6<br />
SOCIÉTÉ BUDAPEST A creative space to experience<br />
the art, fashion, and gastronomy of<br />
Central-Europe. At their shop, visitors will find<br />
plenty of Central-European designers and artists.<br />
Pest V, Sas u. 16. www.soci- etebudapest.<br />
com Map D5<br />
SZPUTNYIK SHOP Vintage-clothing lovers and<br />
treasure hunters can find retro fashions and<br />
brand–new custom designs at two boutiques<br />
that serve as eclectic time capsules. www.<br />
szputnyikshop.hu. Pest VII, Dohány u.20.<br />
Map C6; Pest VI, Király u.22. Map D6<br />
THE GARDEN STUDIO This studio works as a<br />
playground, atelier, and showroom for emerging<br />
local designers. T: (+ 36 30) 848 6163. Pest<br />
VI, Paulay Ede u.18. www. thegardenstudio.<br />
hu Map D6<br />
TISZA A communist-era shoe brand revived<br />
with style and still manufactured in Hungary.<br />
www. tiszacipo.hu Pest VII, Károly krt. 1. T: (+36<br />
1) 266 3055 Map C6; WestEnd City Center: Pest<br />
VI, Váci út 1-3. T: (+36 1) 238 7505 Map F6<br />
VASS SHOES The shop offers comfortable, elegant,<br />
and enduring ready-to-wear or bespoke<br />
shoes in different styles by a legendary Hungarian<br />
shoemaker. Pest V, Haris köz 2. T: (+36 1) 318<br />
2375, www. vass-cipo.hu Map C5<br />
DESIGN SHOPS,<br />
HOME DESIGN<br />
CODE SHOWROOM An exclusive distributor of<br />
Maxalto, B&B Italia, Minotti, Knoll International,<br />
Porro, and Dedon brands in Hungary. Products<br />
from nearly 100 cutting-edge design companies<br />
are also available. Open Mon-Fri 10am-6pm, Sat<br />
10am- 2pm. Pest VI, Nagymező u. 9. T: (+36 1) 267<br />
0312, www.codeshowroom.com Map D6<br />
GOA HOME Chic home décor and accessories, including<br />
furniture, textiles, and decorative items.<br />
Open Mon-Fri 10am-6pm, Sat 10am-2pm. Pest<br />
VII, Király u. 19. www.goamama.com Map D6<br />
MAGMA This gorgeous gallery offers interior<br />
designers’ creations in mediums like glass,<br />
ceramics, and paper. Pest V, Petőfi Sándor u. 11.<br />
www.magma.hu Map D3<br />
MONO ART & DESIGN At this design shop, visitors<br />
can find notebooks, unique jewelry, and other intriguing<br />
pieces. Design: Pest V, Kossuth Lajos u. 12.<br />
www.facebook.com/monoar- tanddesign Map C6<br />
PRINTA An innovative showcase for Hungarian<br />
and global artisans, featuring independent<br />
fashions, eco-friendly accessories, and creative<br />
gifts. Pest VII, Rumbach Sebestyén u. 10. T: (+36<br />
30) 292 0329, www.printa.hu Map C6<br />
SPIRITHOME Luxury, designer home décor, and<br />
accessories from brands like ARMANI Casa and<br />
Ipe Cavalli. Pest VII, Király u. 47. T: (+36 70) 251<br />
5152, www.spirithome.hu Map<br />
FLOWERS<br />
ARIOSO Centrally located flower shop with homedesign<br />
items and a café. www.arioso.hu Pest VII,<br />
Király u. 9. T: (+36 1) 266 3555, Map C6; MOM Park:<br />
Buda XI, Alkotás u. 53. T: (+36 1) 201 0361 Map B2<br />
FLEUROP Professional flower delivery, including<br />
same-day orders. T: (+36 1) 288 0634, (+36 20)<br />
369 5553, www.fleurop.hu; e-mail: fleurop.kft@<br />
fleurop. hu<br />
FLEURT Cutting-edge contemporary flower compositions,<br />
vases, and unique small gift ideas.<br />
Pest V, Zrínyi u. 12. T: (+36 1) 321 8122, www.<br />
fleurt. hu Map D5<br />
LAURA VIRÁG Beautiful bouquets and contemporary<br />
flower arrangements are found at this<br />
delightful shop. Pest VI, Király u. 28. T: (+36 1)<br />
329 9889, www. lauravirag.hu Map D6<br />
PHILANTIA A century-old florist shop in the heart<br />
of downtown. Pest V, Váci u. 9. T: (+36 1) 266 1156,<br />
www.facebook.com/LikePhilanthia Map C5<br />
PLANTOMIME Beautiful flowers, plants, and<br />
creative bouquets for special occasions. Pest<br />
VI, Nagymező u. 60. T: (+36 30) 553 0443, www.<br />
plan- tomime.hu Map E5<br />
WILD FLOWER BAR This lifestyle-driven studio<br />
embraces seasonality and conceptualizes floral<br />
designs for events, installations, weddings, and<br />
private residences. Pest V, Vitkovics Mihály u.<br />
3-5. T: (+36 20) 364 5128, www.wildflowerbar.<br />
com Map C5<br />
MARKETS<br />
CENTRAL MARKET HALL Everything you might<br />
want, including vegetables, meat, bread,<br />
cheese, wild boar, and fresh fish is found here.<br />
Upstairs, look for Hungarian crafts and souvenirs.<br />
Open Mon 6am-5pm, Tue-Fri 6am-6pm<br />
and Sat 6am-3pm. Pest IX, Vámház krt. 1-3. T:<br />
(+36 1) 366 3300, www.piaconline.hu Map A6<br />
CZAKÓ STREET MARKET This intimate farmer's<br />
market features fresh produce, meat, and dairy<br />
products. Open Saturdays 8am- 2pm. Buda I,<br />
Czakó u. 15. Map B3<br />
FÉNY STREET MARKET Located near Széll Kálmán<br />
tér, this market is a favorite of many expats<br />
living in Budapest. It offers a wide variety of<br />
fresh produce, pastries, and baked goods.<br />
Buda II, Lövőház utca 12. www.fenyutcaipiac.<br />
hu Map E2<br />
DOWNTOWN MARKET This lesser known market<br />
hall close to Parliament is smaller than its big<br />
brother (Central Market) but is just as pretty<br />
and offers a similar range of products. Upstairs,<br />
there are a variety of restaurants, which make<br />
it an ideal spot for a quick lunch. Closed on<br />
Sundays, Pest V, Hold utca 13, www.piaconline.<br />
hu Map D5<br />
MOM BIO MARKET A haven for those who love<br />
eating healthy, this Buda open-air market only<br />
showcases certified organic producers. It has<br />
the biggest variety in town of fruits, vegetables,<br />
meat, dairy, and even cosmetics. Open only on<br />
Saturdays, 6:30am-1pm, Buda XII, Csörsz u. 18.<br />
www.facebook.com/okopiac Map B1<br />
PORCELAIN & GLASS<br />
AJKA KRISTÁLY Fine crystal pieces and stemware<br />
are available in both modern and classical designs.<br />
www. ajka-crystal.hu Pest V, József Attila<br />
u. 7. T: (+36 1) 317 8133 Map C5; Pest V, Kossuth<br />
Lajos u. 10. T: (+36 1) 328 0844 Map C6; Pest XIII,<br />
Szent István krt. 18. T: (+36 1) 340 5083 Map F5<br />
HEREND PORCELAIN World-class fine china, painted<br />
by hand. www.herend.com Pest V, József Nádor<br />
tér 11. T: (+36 1) 317 2622 Map C5; Buda I, Szentháromság<br />
u. 5. T: (+36 1) 225 1051 Map D3; Pest VI,<br />
Andrássy út 16. T: (+36 1) 374 0006 Map D6<br />
HOLLÓHÁZI Hand-painted porcelain tableware<br />
and gift items. www.hollohazi.hu Pest VII,<br />
Dohány u. 1/C. T: (+36 20) 592 5676 Map C6;<br />
Haas & Czjzek: Pest VI, Bajcsy-Zsilinszky út 23. T:<br />
(+36 1) 311 4094 Map D6<br />
ZSOLNAY Porcelain from the famous factory in<br />
the southern city of Pécs, including dinnerware,<br />
vases, and decorative items. www.zsolnay.hu<br />
Haas & Czjzek: Pest VI, Bajcsy-Zsilinszky<br />
út 23. T: (+36 1) 311 4094 Map D5<br />
WINE SHOPS<br />
BORTÁRSASÁG WINE STORE Excellent wine<br />
shop at multiple locations with friendly<br />
English-speaking staff and extensive Hungarian<br />
selections. www.bortarsasag.hu. Shopping<br />
malls inculding Allee, Árkád, Hegyvidék, Budagyöngye,<br />
MOM Park. Shops: Buda I, Batthyány<br />
u. 59. T: (+36 1) 212 2569 Map E2; Buda I, Lánchíd<br />
u. 5. T: (+36 1) 225 1702 Map C4; Pest IX, Ráday u.<br />
7. T: (+36 1) 219 5647 Map A6; Pest V, Vécsey u. 5.<br />
T: (+36 1) 269 3286 Map D5<br />
www.wheretraveler.com 23
WELLNESS<br />
“Your mind will<br />
answer most<br />
questions if you learn<br />
to relax and wait for<br />
the answer." —<br />
William Burroughs<br />
Plotting an obligatory afternoon at one of<br />
Budapest’s famous (albeit crowded) thermal<br />
baths is one way to weave a bit of relaxation<br />
into your itinerary, but if it’s a more hushed and<br />
intimate experience you crave, then book a few<br />
luxurious hours at the Mystery Hotel Budapest’s<br />
Secret Garden Day Spa. Like the spa at the Four<br />
Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace Budapest and<br />
Harmony Spa at the Aria Hotel Budapest by Library<br />
Hotel Collection, popular with both visitors and<br />
locals, this hideaway is fast making its mark on the<br />
city’s wellness scene.<br />
In District VI, the Mystery Hotel Budapest is a<br />
one-time palace built in the 19th century by the<br />
Hungarian Freemasons. With guest rooms that<br />
reference different types of Greek columns, and are<br />
dressed in either Doric, Ionian, or Corinthian style,<br />
the hotel has an Old World, magical vibe that is<br />
inspired by mystic books and films. The spa,<br />
situated on the hotel’s ground level, is no<br />
exception; its backdrop is a stunning indoor<br />
Baroque garden crowned with a glass roof.<br />
Settle in at reception, where the walls are covered<br />
in uplifting tropical paper and a dramatic<br />
chandelier hangs over the front desk, and grab a<br />
glass of lemon-scented water. Sit down in the<br />
wellness area and between the intricate tile work,<br />
the plentiful palm trees, and the sound of the<br />
fountain’s rushing water, immediately you will<br />
feel at peace.<br />
Do break the trance,<br />
though, by grabbing a<br />
fluffy golden yellow<br />
towel and venturing<br />
into the steam room,<br />
Jacuzzi, and Finnish<br />
sauna. They pave the<br />
way to one of the spa<br />
treatments, which<br />
include hard-to-resist<br />
90-minute<br />
aromatherapy<br />
massages.<br />
Facials and body rituals,<br />
including the<br />
Hypnotique deepmeditation<br />
iteration,<br />
incorporate all-natural products from Hungarian<br />
skincare guru Adrienne Feller that are also available<br />
for purchase here. On your way out, contemplate<br />
between splurging on her Rose de Luxe eye cream<br />
or Hungarian Spring scrub.<br />
Afterwards, soak up the Mystery Hotel’s enigmatic<br />
ambience for a tad longer by heading upstairs to<br />
the Great Hall and ordering a plate of smoked<br />
salmon cannelloni with vodka-ricotta espuma.<br />
Hungarian wine, citrus-scented olives, and<br />
remarkable city views at the Sky Garden, the<br />
rooftop terrace, are the perfect send-off.<br />
Podmaniczky utca 45, mysteryhotelbudapest.com<br />
24 <strong>WHERE</strong> BUDAPEST I SEPTEMBER <strong>2019</strong>
WELLNESS<br />
BEAUTY<br />
ADRIENNE FELLER This popular Hungarian brand<br />
uses aromatherapy and essential oils to create<br />
harmony and healthy skin. At the store in the<br />
MOM Park shopping center, visitors can get a<br />
personalized consultancy, to learn which products<br />
including the Rose de Luxe collection suit<br />
their skin the best. Buda XII, Alkotás u. 53. www.<br />
adriennefellerwebshop.hu Map B2<br />
JO MALONE First Hungarian store of the famous<br />
British beauty brand. Perfumes, candles, body<br />
washes, and creams are all here. Pest V, Erzsébet<br />
tér 9-10. www.jomalone.com Map C5<br />
LE PARFUM Hungary’s only master perfumer<br />
offers consultations to find your ideal aroma<br />
from myriad international brands. Pest V, Deák<br />
Ferenc u. 18. T: (+36 30) 405 0668, www.leparfum.<br />
hu Map<br />
MADISON A stylish boutique for discovering<br />
perfumes, colognes, and top-quality cosmetics<br />
and beauty products, just steps away from the<br />
Opera House. Pest VI, Andrássy út 26. T: (+36<br />
1) 269 2016, www.madisonperfumery. com<br />
Map D6<br />
METROPOLITAN Hair and grooming services<br />
in posh surroundings on a quiet street in the<br />
heart of downtown. Pest V, Aulich u. 4-6. T: (+36<br />
1) 274 8934, www.metro- politanbudapest.hu<br />
Map D5<br />
MY SPIRIT The newest luxurious Hungarian certified<br />
organic skin care line contains perfumes,<br />
products developed especially for children and<br />
babies, cleansers, rich creams, and effective<br />
serums containing the purest ingredients.<br />
www.myspirit.hu<br />
NEROLI This luxury perfumery offers one-of-akind<br />
perfumes, along with Kent brushes and<br />
the famous Diptyque candles. Pest V, Régiposta<br />
u. 19. www.parfumneroli.hu Map C5<br />
OMOROVICZA The healing properties of Hungarian<br />
waters are the backbone of this innovative<br />
skincare line, now internationally popular at<br />
upscale department stores. www.omorovicza.<br />
com Pest VI, Andrássy út 2. T: (+36 1) 302 4604.<br />
Map D5; Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace:<br />
Pest V, Széchenyi István tér 5-6. T: (+36 1) 286<br />
6000, Map D4<br />
TINAMU Located near Budapest’s premier shopping<br />
street, this luxury perfumery offers topnotch<br />
beauty brands like REN, the Ordinary,<br />
and Elemis. T: (+36 1) 328 0228. Pest V, Régiposta<br />
u. 19. www.parfumneroli.hu Map C5; Pest V,<br />
Kristóf tér 3. Map C5<br />
GOLF COURSES<br />
MAGYAR These verdant links dating back to 1911<br />
are located on a peaceful Danube isle just<br />
north of Budapest. Kisoroszi, Golf út 1. www.<br />
magyar- golfclub.hu Off Map<br />
PANNÓNIA This elegant country club outside of<br />
Budapest features an 18-hole championship<br />
facility and English- language golf lessons.<br />
Máriavölgy, near Etyek. T: (+36 22) 594 200,<br />
www.golfclub.hu Off Map<br />
SPAS<br />
AQUINCUM SPA Offering beauty treatments that<br />
incorporate the curative mud of Hévíz. Open<br />
daily 6am-10pm. Buda III, Árpád fejedelem útja<br />
94. T: (+36 1) 436 4130, www.aquincumhotel.<br />
com/hu/ spa-es-wellness Off Map<br />
BOSCOLO SPA The striking design of this deluxe<br />
facility is inspired by an Alpine ice tunnel,<br />
where lights are reflected from Swarovski<br />
crystals. It provides an ideal place to escape<br />
from everyday chaos. Pest VII, Erzsébet krt. 9-11.<br />
T: (+36 1) 886 6125, www. boscolohotels.com<br />
Map C7<br />
CONTINENTAL SPA Luxurious rooftop wellness<br />
area offering indoor and outdoor pools, saunas,<br />
and a wide variety of modern amenities. Open<br />
9am-9pm. Continental Hotel Budapest: Pest<br />
VII, Dohány u. 42-44. T: (+36 30) 914 8572, www.<br />
conti- nentalhotelbudapest.com Map C7<br />
DANUBIUS HEALTH SPA MARGITSZIGET Dayspa<br />
visitors are welcome to indulge in hot<br />
mineral thermal baths, saunas, steam rooms,<br />
hydro pools, and fitness classes. Choose from<br />
over 100 medical or pampering treatments<br />
conducted in pristine, elegant surroundings.<br />
Margaret Island. T: (+36 1) 889 4914, www.premierfitness.hu<br />
Off Map<br />
ISIS DAY SPA Luxurious treatments using ancient<br />
Roman and Turkish techniques. Body wraps,<br />
beauty treatments, and couple packages are<br />
also available. Try the rainforest shower, which<br />
combines a healing touch with dripping warm<br />
water. Open daily 10am-10pm. Pest VIII, Üllői<br />
út 14. T: (+36 1) 266 7788, www.isisdayspa.hu<br />
Map B6<br />
KEMPINSKI THE SPA Relaxing wellness center<br />
overlooking Erzsébet Square, with premium<br />
amenities and a variety of treatments inspired<br />
by the four seasons. Open daily 7am- 10pm.<br />
Kempinski Hotel Corvinus: Pest V, Erzsébet tér<br />
7-8. T: (+36 1) 429 3585, www.kempinski.com/<br />
budapest Map C5<br />
MASCULIN A fresh, exquisitely decorated gentlemen’s-only<br />
spa and day salon offering body<br />
treatments, pedicures, and manicures. Open<br />
Tue-Fri 10am-8pm and Sat noon-6pm. Pest<br />
XIII, Pozsonyi út 12. T: (+36 1) 786 4642, www.<br />
masculin.hu Map F5<br />
ROYAL SPA With a huge pool, fitness center, and<br />
full treatment services in a historic setting,<br />
the Royal Spa reigns as an elegant respite of<br />
serenity in the center of downtown. Open daily<br />
6:30am-10pm. Corinthia Hotel Budapest: Pest<br />
VII, Erzsébet krt. 43-49. T: (+36 1) 479 4650, www.<br />
corinthia.com/ budapest Map D7<br />
SPA INTERCONTINENTAL Enjoy exquisite wellness<br />
treatments and spa services, including<br />
couples’ rubdowns and Japanese shiatsu, in<br />
this modern facility. Open daily 6am-10pm.<br />
InterContinental Budapest: Pest V, Apáczai<br />
Csere János u. 12-14. T: (+36 1) 327 6427, www.<br />
budapest. intercontinental.com Map C4<br />
THE SPA AT FOUR SEASONS HOTEL GRESHAM<br />
PALACE Offering an extensive range of rejuvenating<br />
therapies, services, and treatments using<br />
the best organic products. Located on the<br />
top floor of the hotel, the spa features private<br />
wellness and treatment rooms, a sauna, steam<br />
rooms for men and women, a whirlpool, and<br />
fitness facilities. Open daily 6am-10pm. Pest<br />
V, Széchenyi tér 5-6. T: (+36 1) 268 5500, www.<br />
fourseasons.com/budapest/spa.html Map D4<br />
SWIMMING POOLS &<br />
THERMAL BATHS<br />
AQUAWORLD BUDAPEST Huge indoor-outdoor<br />
water park with giant slides, surf pool, and<br />
25-meter- long swimming pool. Ideal for a day<br />
out with children, it’s easily reachable by car<br />
or a special bus leaving regularly from Heroes’<br />
Square. Open daily 6am-10pm. Pest IV, Íves út<br />
16. T: (+36 1) 231 3760, www.aqua-world.hu<br />
Off Map<br />
CSILLAGHEGY The oldest swimming pool in<br />
Budapest, it’s built into a terraced hillside with<br />
a restaurant and separate pools for leisure and<br />
children. Buda III, Pusztakúti út 2-6. T: (+36 1) 242<br />
0754, www.csillaghegyistrand.hu Off Map<br />
GELLÉRT A turn-of-the-century spa complex<br />
adjacent to the Gellért Danubius Hotel. Mosaiccovered<br />
terraces and halls, also an outdoor<br />
pool in the summer. Open daily 6am-8pm.<br />
Buda XI, Szt. Gellért tér 1. T: (+36 1) 466 6166,<br />
www.gellertfurdo. hu Map A5<br />
KIRÁLY One of Budapest’s oldest Turkish baths,<br />
with original parts of the building dating back<br />
to the 16th century. All facilities are available<br />
to both men and women daily, with swimwear<br />
required. Open daily 9am-9pm. Buda II, Fő u. 84.<br />
T: (+36 1) 202 3688, www.kiralyfurdo.hu Map E3<br />
LUKÁCS A historic spa with a wide range of<br />
curative amenities and eight pools. Open daily<br />
6am-9pm. Buda II, Frankel Leó. u. 25-29. T: (+36<br />
1) 326 1695, www.lukacsfurdo.hu Map G3<br />
PALATINUS Located on Margaret Island, this<br />
premier summer waterpark encompasses a<br />
number of pools, including a wave pool where<br />
guests can learn how to surf, as well as water<br />
slides, sports grounds, and sun beds in the lush<br />
garden. Open in summer, daily from 9am till<br />
early evening. Margaret Island XIII. T: (+36 1) 236<br />
0040, www. palatinusstrand.hu Map G4<br />
RUDAS Hungary’s most well-known Turkish bath<br />
was built in the 16th century and showcases<br />
a stunning octagonal pool. Buda I, Döbrentei<br />
tér 9. T: (+36 1) 356 1322, www.rudasfurdo.hu<br />
Map B4<br />
SZÉCHENYI This beautiful building in City Park<br />
is the most famous and popular of Budapest’s<br />
baths, with outdoor and indoor thermal and<br />
swimming pools open year-round. Pest XIV, Állatkerti<br />
krt. 11. T: (+36 1) 363 3210, www.szechenyifurdo.hu<br />
Map G8<br />
VELI BEJ An old Turkish bath that is part of a<br />
hospital owned by the Ordo Hospitalarius. Its<br />
five thermal pools, including the one set under<br />
a gorgeous octagonal dome, are open to the<br />
public in the mornings (6am- noon) and afternoons<br />
(3pm-9pm). Buda II, Árpád fejedelem<br />
útja 7, T: (+36 1) 438 8400 Map G3<br />
YOGA & MEDITATION<br />
AMRITA YOGA CENTER Iyengar specialists<br />
focused on deepening students’ knowledge of<br />
yoga. Buda XI, Bartók Béla út 34. T: (+36 1) 786<br />
7765, www.amritajoga.hu Off Map<br />
BIKRAM YOGA Demanding and rewarding<br />
classes that balance and strengthen the body.<br />
Buda I, Hattyú u. 14. T: (+36 30) 657 7828, www.<br />
bikramyoga.hu Map E2<br />
www.wheretraveler.com 25
DINING<br />
“A party without cake<br />
is just a meeting.” —<br />
Julia Child<br />
No matter what day you walk into<br />
Plantmilkyway, the small bakery close to<br />
Central Market, you will likely be greeted<br />
by Kitti Sőtér, the energetic, young owner who is<br />
always keen to spark a friendly chat.<br />
For Sőtér, who embraces a plant-based diet,<br />
opening Plantmilkyway was an extension of<br />
her lifestyle. “Besides not eating meat or animal<br />
products, it’s also really important to me to<br />
reduce the trash that I produce in the shop and<br />
my life in general,” she says. Plantmilkyway<br />
“shows people that vegan and gluten-free<br />
desserts can be beautiful and tasty.”<br />
Indeed, they are both. Behind glass, Sőtér’s<br />
creations are artistic and elegant. There is an<br />
ethereal blueberry and blackberry mousse, a<br />
brownie with immaculate square grooves<br />
reminiscent of a waffle paired with blackcurrant<br />
jelly and hazelnut cream, and one that unites<br />
peanut cream and chocolate ganache atop a<br />
chocolate biscuit. All are sweetened with dates,<br />
coconut sugar, or agave or maple syrup.<br />
“For me, baking is an artistic expression. French<br />
pastries are rich in small details and have<br />
different textures and forms. I love to use<br />
special spices and combine flavors to create<br />
mouthwatering desserts,” Sőtér explains. “I<br />
think each type of cake has a different<br />
personality.”<br />
Prior to Plantmilkyway, Sőtér worked in other<br />
kitchens, at cafés and big hotels alike. While<br />
studying at university, she worked part-time in<br />
a coffee shop as a pastry chef, where she<br />
confirmed that baking was her passion. All<br />
office jobs in between were marred by the<br />
realization that she didn’t feel “the enjoyment,<br />
the creativity, or the buzz I have when I start to<br />
make sweets.”<br />
In the mornings, customers love beginning<br />
their day at Plantmilkyway with avocado toast<br />
and a matcha latte—with organic plant milk, of<br />
course. As the day progresses, they seek out<br />
the bright raspberry mousse-sponge cake, or<br />
the tiramisu. The most popular of the desserts,<br />
Sőtér makes it with an almond-cocoa base and<br />
coffee cream.<br />
Sőtér also whips up numerous custom cake<br />
orders, and shares recipes for the likes of<br />
lavender-lemon cookies, chocolate pudding,<br />
and basil panna cotta with strawberry dressing<br />
on her website. Give it a read. Csarnok tér 6,<br />
plantmilkyway.com<br />
26 <strong>WHERE</strong> BUDAPEST I SEPTEMBER <strong>2019</strong>
DINING<br />
COFFEE HOUSES<br />
AUGUSZT One of the famous, grand, old confectioneries<br />
of Budapest, with biscuits, cakes, and<br />
ice creams. www.auguszt.hu Open Mon-Fri<br />
9am-7pm and Sat 11am-6pm at Pest V, Kossuth<br />
Lajos u. 14-16. T: (+36 1) 337 6379 Map C6; Open<br />
Wed-Sun 10am-6pm at Buda XI, Sasadi út 190. T:<br />
(+36 1) 249 0134 Off Map<br />
ART NOUVEAU CAFÉ Small coffeehouse decorated<br />
with Old-World furniture in a distinctive Art<br />
Nouveau style. It also houses a small museum.<br />
Pest V, Honvéd u.3. T : (+36 1) 269 4622, www.<br />
magyarszecessziohaza.hu Map E5<br />
BUDAPEST BARISTAS In a great location close to<br />
the Hungarian National Museum, it’s famed for<br />
its matcha, baked goods, and a full range of specialty<br />
coffee. Open Mon-Fri 7:30am - 7pm, Sat-Sun<br />
7am-7pm, Pest V, Múzeum körút 15. Map B6<br />
CENTRÁL CAFÉ Old-fashioned splendor with<br />
fine dining and tasty pastries. Open daily 8am-<br />
11pm. Pest V, Károlyi Mihály u. 9. T: (+36 1) 266<br />
2110, www. centralkavehaz.hu Map B5-6<br />
COFFEE STAND GUTENBERG This café has created<br />
a new genre: quality coffee for the timepressed.<br />
Here, the to-go coffee and excellent<br />
pastries are served at a friendly price by even<br />
friendlier staff. Pop by when exploring this bohemian<br />
district. Pest VIII, Békési u. 1. Map B7<br />
COYOTE CAFÉ AND DELI Apart from specialty coffee,<br />
breakfast is the main attraction here. Order<br />
freshly baked pastries, croissant sandwiches, pretzels,<br />
or salads all day long, maybe splurging on<br />
craft beer, too. Buda I, Markovits Iván u. 4 Map E3<br />
DOUBLE SHOT As the name implies, a double<br />
is the way to go at this café, which now has<br />
two locations. Along with quality coffee, fresh<br />
pastries and sandwiches make Double Shot<br />
extremely popular. XIII, Pozsony út 16. Map F6<br />
ECO CAFÉ Enjoy organic coffee, tea, and healthy<br />
food, including sandwiches, salads, and vegan<br />
pastries at this welcoming, eco-conscious<br />
eatery. Whenever possible, products are fairly<br />
traded. Open Mon-Sat 7am-8pm, Sun 8am-8pm.<br />
Pest VI, Andrássy út 68. www.ecocafe.hu Map E6<br />
ÉS DELI A New York-style deli<br />
in the heart of Budapest, with<br />
specialty coffee try their own<br />
’Deli blend gourmet sandwiches,<br />
freshly-pressed juices, pastries, and<br />
muesli, complemented by homemade jams<br />
and sauces. Open Mon-Sun 7am–7pm, Pest V,<br />
Deák Ferenc utca 12-14 Map C5<br />
ESPRESSO EMBASSY Has Bean provides the base<br />
for Espresso Embassy’s caffeinated creations. With<br />
a relaxed but hip ambience, the excellent coffee<br />
is worth coming by for when visiting the nearby<br />
Basilica. Open Mon-Fri 7:30am-7pm, Sat 9am-6pm,<br />
Sun 9am– 5pm T: (+36 20) 445 0063 Map D5<br />
ELSŐ PESTI TEAHÁZ One of the best selections<br />
of tea in the city is found here. Open Mon-Fri<br />
10am-6pm and Sat 10am-2pm. Pest XIII, Katona<br />
J. u. 5. T: (+36 1) 359 3028, www.elso-pesti-teahaz.<br />
hu Map F5<br />
FEKETE Fekete that’s Hungarian for black has a<br />
shady courtyard, a blessing on hot summer<br />
days. Apart from specialty coffee, sandwiches,<br />
and breakfast, guests also love the minimalist design.<br />
Open Mon-Sat 8:30am-7pm, Sun 9am-5pm.<br />
Pest V, Múzeum körút 5. www.feketekv.hu Map C6<br />
GERBEAUD Budapest’s most famed, historic coffeehouse<br />
provides a dose of old-time elegance<br />
right in the center of town. Savor signature<br />
pastries and cakes amid the rich interior<br />
or in the summer, on the terrace prime for<br />
people-watching. Open daily 9am-9pm. Pest<br />
V, Vörösmarty tér 7-8. T: (+36 1) 429 9000, www.<br />
gerbeaud.hu Map C5<br />
KAFFEINE Well-made coffee is the reason to go<br />
to Kaffeine, where fruity espresso, flat whites,<br />
cold brew, and espresso tonics are found at<br />
the café’s three locations. Buda II, Lövőház u. 27<br />
Map E2; Buda XI, Október huszon- harmadika u.<br />
8-10. Off Map; Pest VIII, Baross u. 6. Map B6<br />
LA NUBE Both a café and tapas bar, La Nube<br />
showcases both Andalusian flavors and design<br />
in charming District XI. Order a Spanish breakfast<br />
while admiring the beautiful tiles adorning the<br />
space. In the evening, craft beer is yet another reason<br />
to linger. Buda XI, Bartók Béla út 41. Off Map<br />
MADAL One of the first specialty cafés to open<br />
in Budapest, Madal has stood for quality coffee<br />
for years, providing guests a respite from the<br />
city’s hustle & bustle. Now operating in three<br />
locations, Madal also impresses with a clean,<br />
modern design and friendly atmosphere. www.<br />
madalcafe.hu Open Mon-Fri 7:30am–7:30pm,<br />
Sat-Sun 8:30am-7:30pm. Pest XIII, Hollán Ernő<br />
utca 3. Map F5; Pest V, Alkotmány utca 4.<br />
Map E5; Pest V, Ferenciek tere 3. Map C5<br />
MASSOLIT BOOKS & CAFÉ This quiet hangout<br />
is perfect for reading English-language books<br />
while sipping direct-trade coffee or a chai<br />
latte alongside bagels and homemade cake<br />
and quiche. Open:Mon- Fri: 8.30am – 7.30pm,<br />
Sat-Sun:10am-7.30pm. Pest VII, Budapest, Nagy<br />
Diófa utca 30. T. (+36 1) 788 5292 Map C6<br />
MŰVÉSZ CAFÉ Situated on Andrássy, it is hard<br />
to miss the belle époque charm of Művész,<br />
historically a hub for artists of the Opera just<br />
across the street. Yes, there are cakes and coffee,<br />
but it’s the Biedermeier interior that truly<br />
transports you to the glory of bygone days.<br />
Open: Mon-Sat 8am-9pm, Sun 9am-9pm. Pest,<br />
VI, Andrássy út 29. Map D6<br />
MY LITTLE MELBOURNE Small but cozy, with an<br />
always-packed terrace, this little café is near<br />
Deák Ferenc Square. The house specialty is supplied<br />
by Workshop Coffee Co. but don’t miss<br />
the roster of temporary coffees that arrive every<br />
week, most from micro-roasters around Europe.<br />
T: (+36 70) 394 7002, Pest VII, Madách Imre út 3.<br />
www.mylittlemelbourne.hu Map C5-6<br />
NEW YORK CAFÉ AND SALON The New York Palace<br />
hotel is one of Budapest’s most legendary<br />
buildings, and the best way to get a glimpse of<br />
it is by hanging out at its namesake café. A favorite<br />
among Hungarian writers and journalists<br />
of yesteryear, its lavish interiors still stun. Pest<br />
VII, Erzsébet krt. 9-11. T: (+36 1) 886 6167, www.<br />
newyorkcafe.hu Map C7<br />
OPERA CAFÉ - CLOSED FOR RENOVATION -Tucked<br />
inside the iconic Miklós Ybl-designed Hungar-<br />
ian State Opera House, Opera Café makes for<br />
an equally grand pre- or post performance<br />
stop. Salads, pastas, sandwiches, wine and specialty<br />
coffee are all savored against a glamorous<br />
ambience. Pest VI, Andrássy út 22. T: (+36 1) 800<br />
9210, www. operacafe.hu Map D6<br />
RUSZWURM Charming Castle District café dating<br />
back to 1827, with a beautiful interior. Cash only.<br />
Open daily 10am-7pm. Buda I, Szentháromság u.7.<br />
T: (+36 1) 375 5284, www.ruszwurm.hu Map D3<br />
TAMP AND PULL Expert coffee in low-key, hip surroundings<br />
close to Opus Jazz Club. www.tamppull.hu<br />
Pest IX, Czuczor u. 3. Map A6; Pest XIII,<br />
Váci út 85. Off Map<br />
SZAMOS MARCIPÁN Well known confectionery<br />
there are numerous outposts of the chain for<br />
cake, ice cream, and chocolate specialties. If<br />
you want to try marzipan, this is the place.<br />
Open daily 10am-6pm. Pest V, Párizsi u. 3. T: (+36<br />
1) 317 3643, www.szam- osmarcipan.hu Map E4<br />
THE GOAT HERDER Named after the Ethiopian<br />
herder to whom we owe the gift of coffee, this<br />
cafe is out of the way, but a worthwhile visit. The<br />
coffee and homey food and pastries are top quality,<br />
making it a favorite among both locals and<br />
international students at the nearby veterinary<br />
university. Open Mon-Fri 7:30am-5:30pm, Pest VII,<br />
István u. 5. www.thegoat- herder.hu Map D8<br />
HUNGARIAN<br />
SZÁZÉVES The “100 Years Old” restaurant, is<br />
the oldest in Budapest, dating from 1831.<br />
Traditional Hungarian and international<br />
cuisine is served amid cozy, rustic décor, and<br />
there is excellent gypsy music playing in the<br />
evening. Pest V, Piarista u. 2, T: (+36 1) 230 0329,<br />
www.100evesetterem.hu, Map B5<br />
21 HUNGARIAN KITCHEN<br />
Casual, Michelin-recommended<br />
Hungarian restaurant in Buda’s<br />
Castle District, where locals go<br />
for regional flavors paired with<br />
Hungarian wines. In Buda’s medieval Castle<br />
District. Buda I, Fortuna u. 21. T: (+36 1) 202 2113,<br />
www.21restaurant.hu Map D3<br />
ALFÖLDI RESTAURANT An old-fashioned restaurant<br />
in the city center decorated with folk<br />
art. Pest V, Kecskeméti u. 4. T: (+36 1) 267 0224,<br />
www.alfoldiv- endeglo.hu Map B6<br />
BELVÁROSI DISZNÓTOROS Hungarians are<br />
famous for their sausage, and this place has<br />
a wide assortment on display, spanning<br />
bratwurst and blood sausage. With a fast-food<br />
atmosphere, it’s great for a quick sightseeing<br />
break. Open Mon-Sat 9am-7pm. Pest, V, Károlyi<br />
utca 17. www.belvarosidisznotoros. hu Map C7<br />
BOCK BISTRO One of these Michelin-recommended<br />
restaurants is set in the luxe Corinthia<br />
Hotel downtown; the other in a modern<br />
glass-and-wood building with a big terrace in a<br />
leafy part of Buda. Both serve modern Hungarian<br />
food with Hungarian wines you’ll want to<br />
sample. www. bockbisztro.hu Pest VII, Erzsébet<br />
krt. 43-49. T: (+36 1) 321 0340, Map D7 (closed<br />
on Sun); Buda XII, Szarvas Gábor út 8. T: (+36 1)<br />
376 6044, Off Map (closed on Mon and Tue).<br />
www.wheretraveler.com 27
DINING<br />
TOP TABLES<br />
DESPITE ITS SEDATE REPUTATION, BUDA<br />
IS HOME TO BUZZING RESTAURANT SCENE<br />
Bisected by the Danube River, Budapest is a city with two dramatically<br />
personalities. While many visitors to the Hungarian capital spend most<br />
of their time exploring lively Pest, Buda isn’t without its own happening<br />
hotspots. In fact, cross the Chain Bridge and you’ll find some of the city’s<br />
best restaurants amid the elegant streets surrounding Buda Castle<br />
PIERROT<br />
Set in a traditional bakery house dating<br />
back to the 13 th century, this family-run<br />
restaurant serves up classic Hungarian<br />
dishes with a contemporary spin. Be<br />
sure to dine al fresco in its courtyard<br />
during the warmer months.<br />
1014 Budapest, Fortuna utca 14..<br />
#fairytalegarden #culinarylegend<br />
www.pierrot.Hu<br />
JAMIE’S ITALIAN<br />
BUDA CASTLE<br />
If you’ve a hankering for some Italian fare,<br />
head to this outpost of the popular casual<br />
dining chain. Take your pick form a wide<br />
array of pastas, pizzas and more; there’s<br />
a kids’ menu, too.<br />
1014 Budapest, Szentháromság utca 9-11.<br />
#modernitalian #jamiestandard<br />
www.jamieoliver.com/italian/hungary<br />
BALTAZÁR GRILL<br />
Taking pride of place in this restaurant in a Josper<br />
charcoal grill, which is used to prepare various<br />
meats – everything from free-range chicken to<br />
dry-aged beef.<br />
It’s every carnivore’s idea of paradise.<br />
1014 Budapest, Országház utca 31.<br />
#gastroplayground<br />
www.baltazarbudapest.com<br />
21 HUNGARIAN<br />
KITCHEN<br />
Tuck into quintessential Hungarian<br />
cuisine, such as chicken paprika, at<br />
this laid-back bistro. There aremore<br />
unusual options on the menu too,<br />
such as catfish and chips – a modern<br />
interpretation of the classic dish.<br />
1014 Budapest, Fortuna utca 21.<br />
#hungariankitchen<br />
#withamoderntwist<br />
www.21restaurant.hu<br />
PEST-BUDA BISTRO<br />
Situated in the city’s oldest hotel<br />
(which opened over 300 years ago in 1696),<br />
this eatery dishes up affordable home-style<br />
fare, such as beef goulash and Wiener<br />
Schnitzel. Plus, its pastas and sausages<br />
are all made by hand.<br />
1014 Budapest, Fortuna utca 3.<br />
#grandmaskitchen #withloveandcare<br />
www.pest-buda.com<br />
28 <strong>WHERE</strong> BUDAPEST I SEPTEMBER <strong>2019</strong>
DINING<br />
DINING<br />
BORKONYHA The Michelin-recommended “Wine<br />
Kitchen” blends an upmarket French-style bistro<br />
with a contemporary family restaurant near the<br />
Basilica. Offering some of the best Hungarian<br />
cuisine in the city, it’s fittingly rounded out with<br />
a comprehensive wine list. On warm days, head<br />
to the shady terrace. Pest V, Sas utca 3, T: (+36 1)<br />
266 0835, www.borkonyha.hu Map D5<br />
BRASSERIE & ATRIUM This Michelin-recommended<br />
restaurant is found inside the Corinthia Hotel,<br />
offering lunch, dinner, and gourmet Sunday<br />
brunch filled with classic Hungarian dishes. Pest<br />
VII, Erzsébet krt. 43-49. T: (+36 1) 479 4850, www.<br />
corinthia.com/budapest Map E7<br />
CALLAS CAFÉ AND RESTAURANT Historic Art<br />
Deco café facing the remarkable Opera House,<br />
with Hungarian specialties and French bistro<br />
dishes. Pest VI, Andrássy út 20. T: (+36 1) 354<br />
0954, www.callascafe.hu Map D5<br />
CAFÉ KÖR Around the corner from the Basilica, its<br />
Hungarian dishes with an international twist are<br />
particularly popular with expats. Closed on Sun.<br />
Pest V, Sas u. 17. T: (+36 1) 311 0053, www.cafekor.<br />
com Map<br />
DUNACORSO A restaurant on the river promenade<br />
in Pest looking out at Castle Hill, with a kitchen<br />
turning out traditional Hungarian and international<br />
dishes. Bonus: There is an outstanding<br />
Gypsy orchestra. Pest V, Vigadó tér 3, T: (+36 1)<br />
318 6362, www.dunacorso.hu Map C5<br />
GOURMET STREET FOOD,<br />
SHARING FOOD,<br />
SERIOUS MEATS FROM<br />
THE HANDMADE<br />
CHARCOAL JOSPER GRILL<br />
Országház utca 31. Budapest // Buda Castle // www.baltazarbudapest.com // +36 1 300 7050 // hello@baltazarbudapest.com<br />
Baltazar 177x124 mm.indd 1 www.wheretraveler.com <strong>2019</strong>.07.23. 12:37:40 29
DINING<br />
<strong>WHERE</strong> EATS<br />
SPÍLER<br />
After the success of its first buzzy bistro-pub location inside<br />
District VII’s Gozsdu Udvar, as well as its adjacent sister bar<br />
Spíler Shanghai, there is another outpost of Spíler in Buda, at<br />
the base of the shopping center MOM Park in District XII. Both<br />
locations are propelled by positive energy and share similar<br />
comforting menus bolstered by a well-rounded selection of<br />
Hungarian craft beer and wine. In Gozsdu Udvar try the<br />
Mediterranean-inspired crispy halloumi salad with tabbouleh,<br />
pomegranate, and creamy yogurt or a chicken burger with<br />
smashed avocado and tomato jam. Flatbread plunked into<br />
broccoli-pea dip is the way to begin a meal in Buda, building up<br />
to grilled salmon dressed with chimichurri salsa.<br />
Pest VII, Király u. 13., T: (+36 1) 878 1320, www.spilerbp.hu<br />
Buda XII, Alkotás u. 53 T: (+36 1) 800 9218, www. spilerbuda.hu<br />
TRÓFEA GRILL<br />
Sometimes quantity does matter, and when you’re feeling<br />
particularly ravenous head to one of Trófea Grill Restaurant’s three<br />
cheerful locations in Pest and Buda for its staggering all-you-caneat<br />
buffet that is especially popular for celebrations and date<br />
nights. Begin with steak tartare, goose liver paté, or creamy<br />
mushroom soup, then pile your plate high with Hungarian<br />
specialties like chicken-stuffed Hortobágyi pancakes, catfish<br />
paprikas, and spicy pork medallions, or Burgundy-style venison<br />
steak. Of course there are plenty of desserts to choose from, too,<br />
including the Hungarian favorites somlói (sponge cake and<br />
chocolate) and poppy seed bread pudding. Beverages are also an<br />
alluring element of the fixed-price menu, so enjoy the night sipping<br />
Hungarian Törley bubbly followed by Hilltop white or red wine.<br />
Buda II, Margit krt. 2., Pest VI, Király u. 30-32., Pest XIII, Visegrádi u. 50/a<br />
www.trofea.hu<br />
FRANKÓ KITCHEN<br />
An inviting bistro-style neighborhood restaurant, Frankó Kitchen<br />
is set in Buda’s residential District II. The constantly-changing<br />
menu, embracing Hungarian ingredients, incorporates global<br />
flavors and modern techniques. One day you’ll find Hungarian<br />
potato soup with poached egg and sausage as a starter and beef<br />
cheeks with tarragon and mashed root vegetables as an entrée.<br />
On another, you can contemplate springing for the polenta cream<br />
with vegetables and Camembert or kohlrabi spaghetti with black<br />
mussels and tomato, all washed down by wines from small<br />
Hungarian producers. Desserts, like chocolate mousse melded<br />
with blackberry, and French toast paired with an apple ragout,<br />
are just as lovely.<br />
Buda II, Frankel Leò út 20, T: (+36 70) 582 0640,<br />
www.frankokitchen.hu<br />
30 <strong>WHERE</strong> BUDAPEST I SEPTEMBER <strong>2019</strong>
DINING<br />
DINING<br />
ÉMILE Owned by Gerbeaud, this restaurant is<br />
in an old villa and shady garden in an elegant<br />
residential area of Buda. Come here for refined<br />
breakfasts and lunches prepared by chefs<br />
inspired by their travels. A cake shop, café, and<br />
bar are also in the quaint villa. T: (+ 36 30) 585<br />
0602. Buda II, Orló u. 1. www.emile.hu Off Map<br />
ÉS BISZTRÓ Enjoy Hungarian and<br />
Austrian specialties served in a stylishly<br />
laidback, Michelin-recommended<br />
bistro overlooking Fashion Street.<br />
Highlights include grilled steaks and<br />
fine regional wines. Pest V, Deák Ferenc u. 12-14.<br />
www.esbisztro.hu Map C5<br />
GERLÓCZY Charming Parisian-style café and<br />
restaurant tucked into a square. Breakfast and<br />
lunch on the patio are popular during the summer.<br />
Pest V, Gerlóczy u. 1. T: (+36 1) 501 4000,<br />
www.gerloczy.hu Map C5<br />
GETTÓ GULYÁS For a fresh take on Hungarian cuisine,<br />
go to Gettó Gulyás. You’ll find all the signature<br />
dishes beef stew, chicken paprikash but prepared<br />
with contemporary twists. open: Mon-Thur 12pm-<br />
11pm, Fri-Sat:12am-12pm, Sun 12pm-10pm. Pest, VII,<br />
Wes- selényi utca 18, T.: +36203764480 Map C6<br />
NOBU BENTO<br />
BOX<br />
Special selection of<br />
Nobu’s signature<br />
dishes.<br />
LUNCH SPECIALS<br />
Every day between 12 noon and 3.30 pm<br />
SUSHI BUSINESS<br />
LUNCH<br />
Monday to Friday from<br />
12 noon to 3.30 pm<br />
Our sushi chef’s special<br />
daily sushi selection<br />
with miso soup and a<br />
scoop of ice cream.<br />
VEGETARTIAN<br />
BENTO BOX<br />
Vegetarian and<br />
gluten free lunch<br />
option.<br />
GUNDEL This elegant, Michelin-recommended<br />
restaurant in City Park is legendary, and still<br />
going strong after all these years. Visitors love<br />
to explore the world of fine Hungarian dining at<br />
such a historic spot. Pest XIV, Gundel Károly út 4.<br />
T: (+36 1) 468 4040, www. gundel.hu Map G-F8<br />
INFORMATION AND RESERVATION:<br />
NOBU Budapest<br />
Tel.: +36 1 429-42-42 | E-mail: reservation@noburestaurant.hu<br />
www.noburestaurants.com<br />
Wolf András<br />
Executive Chef<br />
Salon<br />
Restaurant<br />
New York Palace<br />
BUDAPEST 1073, Erzsébet krt. 9/11<br />
Tel.: +36 1 886 6167<br />
reservation@salonrestaurant.hu<br />
www.salonrestaurant.hu<br />
www.wheretraveler.com 31
DINING<br />
HALÁSZBÁSTYA The Danube and Pest views<br />
from its fairy tale location in a Fisherman’s<br />
Bastion tower on Castle Hill are reason enough<br />
to visit this regal restaurant serving Hungarian<br />
delicacies like wild game and Mangalica. Buda<br />
I, Fishermen’s Bastion. T: (+36 1) 201 6935, www.<br />
halaszbastya.eu Map D2<br />
KÁRPÁTIA Traditional Hungarian food is served in<br />
the colorfully decorated surroundings of a former<br />
monastery. Open since 1877, a renowned<br />
Gypsy band plays nightly. Pest V, Ferenciek tere<br />
7-8. T: (+36 1) 317 3596, www.karpatia.hu Map B6<br />
KÉHLI Savor local specialties like bone-marrow<br />
soup and pike-perch filet while being serenaded<br />
by Gypsy musicians at this century-old<br />
restaurant. Buda III, Mókus u. 22. T: (+36 1) 250<br />
4241, www. kehli.hu Off Map<br />
KÉT SZERECSEN At once a coffee house and<br />
bistro, this popular spot offers breakfast, lunch,<br />
and dinner with Mediterranean influences.<br />
The terrace is the place to be in the summer. T:<br />
(+36 1) 343 1984. Pest VI, Nagymező u. 14. www.<br />
ketszerecsen. hu Map D6<br />
KISPIAC BISZTRÓ Old-style neighborhood bistro<br />
just off Szabadság Square, serving traditional<br />
Hungarian food in a homespun atmosphere.<br />
The menu varies almost daily and ingredients<br />
come straight from the adjacent local Hold<br />
Street Market. Closed on Sun. Pest V, Hold u. 13.<br />
T: (+36 30) 430 0142, www.kispiac.eu Map D5<br />
‘‘ Eat and Run<br />
Locals love Budapest’s street food, whether it’s a carrot burger from Las<br />
Vegans, fried cheese at Paneer, or a classic lángos made at Retro Büfé.<br />
They are revved then for Food Truck Show Hungary, which roves around<br />
the country from April through September organizing pop-ups in<br />
different cities. On September 6-8 it’s Budapest’s turn for the second<br />
time this year, attracting crowds to Kincsem Park in District X. It’s worth<br />
the out-of-the-city center detour, though, because the park will be<br />
jammed with numerous colorful trucks dishing out the likes of burgers,<br />
bao, and Cubano sandwiches, with plenty of wine, beer, and pálinka to<br />
go around. This chilled-out party is also a sustainable-minded one: all the<br />
vendors will be serving their food with eco-friendly packaging and<br />
cutlery. foodtruckshow.hu<br />
‘‘<br />
MARVELOSA This romantic and cozy little<br />
restaurant near the Chain Bridge serves delicious<br />
Hungarian food, including breakfast.<br />
Buda I, Lánchíd u. 13. T: (+36 1) 201 9221, www.<br />
marvelosa.eu Map C4<br />
MÚZEUM Fine cuisine and an excellent range of<br />
Hungarian wines are served amid a beautiful<br />
old-fashioned interior near the Hungarian National<br />
Museum. It’s one of the few restaurants<br />
still providing live piano music. Closed on Sun.<br />
Pest VIII, Múzeum krt. 12. T: (+36 1) 267 0375,<br />
www. muzeumkavehaz.hu Map B6<br />
NAGY FATÁL KONYHÁJA Located near the main<br />
shopping area of Váci street, this eatery offers<br />
tra-ditional Hungarian food along with grilled<br />
meats prepared in an open kitchen. Pest VI,<br />
Kigyó utca 4, www.nagyfatal.hu Map C-B5<br />
ÚJ SIPOS HALÁSZKERT Situated in a charming<br />
Óbuda square, it offers traditional Hungarian<br />
food and live gypsy music. Buda III, Fő tér 6, T:<br />
(+36 1) 388 8745, www.ujsipos.hu Off Map<br />
PESTI DISZNÓ Michelin-recommended contemporary<br />
bistro serving fresh Hungarian cuisine<br />
and many local wines by the glass. Pest VI,<br />
Nagymező u. 19. T: (+36 1) 951 4061, www.<br />
pestidiszno.hu Map D6<br />
PEST-BUDA BISTRO A restaurant<br />
honoring Grandma's home-style<br />
kitchen for several decades, using<br />
the best ingredients with love<br />
and care. It only carries Hungarian wines rich<br />
with personality. Around the corner is a terrace,<br />
open in spring and summer, with a view<br />
towards Matthias Church. Buda I, Fortuna u. 3,<br />
T: (+36 1) 225 0377, www.pestbuda.com<br />
Map D5<br />
Bistro & Hotel & Terasz<br />
PIERROT Michelin-recommended<br />
restaurant with modern Hungarian<br />
fine cuisine, carefully selected wines, and live<br />
piano music in the heart of the Castle District.<br />
The romantic open-air winter garden is the<br />
centerpiece. Buda I, Fortuna u. 14. T: (+36 1) 375<br />
6971, www. pierrot.hu Map D2-3<br />
VÖRÖS POSTAKOCSI Since 1972,<br />
the “Red Mail Coach” restaurant<br />
offers traditional Hungarian cuisine<br />
and live Gypsy music. Pest<br />
IX, Ráday u. 15. T: (+36 1) 217 6756,<br />
www.vorospk.com Map B5<br />
INTERNATIONAL<br />
ALABÁRDOS Artful plates of goose liver, chicken<br />
paprikash, and other local specialties are<br />
served against a medieval backdrop at this<br />
centrally located, Michelin-recommended dining<br />
destination on Castle Hill. Closed on Sun.<br />
Buda I, Országház u. 2. T: (+36 1) 356 0851, www.<br />
alabardos.hu Map D3<br />
ARANY KAVIÁR Fine dining with a wide range of<br />
top-caliber caviar, an excellent seafood selection,<br />
and Czarist cuisine with French influences<br />
at this sumptuous Michelin-recommended<br />
restaurant. Buda I, Ostrom u. 19. T: (+36 1) 201<br />
6737, www.aranykaviar. hu Map E2<br />
32 <strong>WHERE</strong> BUDAPEST I SEPTEMBER <strong>2019</strong>
DINING<br />
BÁBEL Michelin-recommended fine dining<br />
restaurant in the heart of the city, focusing on<br />
seasonal, regional delicacies with the majority<br />
of its ingredients hailing from Hungary. The<br />
restaurant was also designed with Hungarian<br />
materials Pest V, Piarista köz 2. T: (+36 70) 6000<br />
800, www.babel-budapest.hu Map B5<br />
BALTAZÁR A Michelin recommended<br />
family- owned gastro<br />
playground with a warm and<br />
friendly atmosphere. Enjoy gourmet<br />
street food made with fresh<br />
ingredients, along with notable wines of the Carpathian<br />
Basin. Buda I, Országház u. 31. T: (+36 1)<br />
300 7050, www.baltazarbudapest. com Map D2<br />
BARAKA Colorful presentations of surprising<br />
dishes made with intriguing combinations of<br />
ingredients and herbs. The menu fuses Asian<br />
and French flavors and weaves in a few modern<br />
Hungarian dishes, complemented by a broad<br />
range of international and Hungarian wines.<br />
Pest V, Dor- ottya u. 6. T: (+36 1) 200 0817, www.<br />
barakarestau- rant.hu Map C4-5<br />
BIARRITZ A favorite hangout among Budapest’s<br />
artists and dignitaries, it’s close to Parliament<br />
and serves modern Hungarian and international<br />
dishes with seasonal ingredients. Pest<br />
V, Balassi Bálint u. 2. T: (+36 1) 311 4413, www.<br />
biarritz.hu Map F4<br />
BELGIAN BRASSERIE HENRI Belgian beer appropriately<br />
paired with mussels. Buda I, Bem<br />
rakpart 12. T: (+36 1) 201 5082, www. belgasorozo.com<br />
Map D4<br />
BORSSÓ BISTRO Serves upscale Hungarian<br />
dishes as well as French delicacies in a natural<br />
light-filled space. Closed on Mon. Pest V, Királyi<br />
Pál u. 14. T: (+36 1) 789 0975, www.borsso. hu<br />
Map B6<br />
CORSO Dining in style on the Danube Promenade<br />
with panoramic views over Castle Hill.<br />
Pest V, Apáczai Csere János u. 12-14. www.<br />
budapest. intercontinental.com Map C4<br />
COSTES The original Costes on Ráday Street has<br />
proudly held a Michelin star for years, and it<br />
continues to shine, serving accomplished,<br />
innovative dishes by a talented chef who uses<br />
modern techniques. Pest IX, Ráday u. 4. T: (+36<br />
1) 219 0696, www.costes.hu Map B6<br />
COSTES DOWNTOWN The newer Costes Downtown<br />
also has a Michelin star. While the food<br />
is similar, the atmosphere here is a bit more<br />
relaxed. Pest V, Vigyázó Ferenc u. 5. T: (+36 1)<br />
920 1015, www.costes.hu Map D5<br />
CSALOGÁNY 26 Tradition meets fine dining at<br />
this restaurant where the seasonal dishes,<br />
showcasing impeccable ingredients, are<br />
constantly changing. T: (+36 1) 201 7892. Buda I,<br />
Csalogány u. 26. www. csalogany26.hu Map E3<br />
DÉRYNÉ BISTRO This Michelin-recommended<br />
bistro and café dates back to 1914 with a full<br />
breakfast menu, seasonal lunch specials, and<br />
gourmet dinners in a Parisian-influenced setting.<br />
Buda I, Krisztina tér 3. T: (+36 1) 225 1407,<br />
www.bistroderyne.com Map C3<br />
DOBRUMBA Middle Eastern tastes with plenty of<br />
vegetarian options in a hip atmosphere served<br />
by friendly staff. Open Sun-Thur noon-midnight,<br />
Fri-Sat noon-1am. Pest VII, Dob utca 5. T.:<br />
(+36) 30 194 0049, www.dobrumba.hu Map C6<br />
HEMINGWAY Relax on the deck or inside the<br />
cozy interior of this serene lakeside restaurant<br />
serving local and international plates, Closed<br />
Sun after 4pm. Buda XI, Kosztolányi Dezső tér 2.<br />
T: (+36 1) 381 0522, www.hemingway-etterem.<br />
hu Off Map<br />
HILDA A classy but casual restaurant adorned with<br />
beautiful yellow and blue mosaic tiles on the<br />
walls. It’s named after an imaginary mistress of<br />
József Hild, the Hungarian neoclassicist architect,<br />
who had a profound influence on the cityscape<br />
of Budapest. Pest V, Nádor u. 5. T: (+ 36 30) 430<br />
9810, www.facebook.com/ hildapest Map D5<br />
LÁNG BISTRO & GRILL An elegant-yet-welcoming<br />
Castle Hill eatery with stellar views over downtown.<br />
Enjoy their excellent Sunday-brunch<br />
buffets. Buda I, Hess András tér 1-3. T: (+36 1)<br />
889 6600, www. hilton.com Map D3<br />
KIOSK Surrounded by exposed brickwork and<br />
panoramic riverfront views, diners at this spacious<br />
hotspot enjoy creative modern meals in<br />
a laidback setting. Live DJs and great cocktails<br />
Grandma’s kitchen<br />
with love and care<br />
Traditional dishes are turned out<br />
with the utmost love and care.<br />
brEakfast - dinner - lunch<br />
Pest-Buda Bistro<br />
1014 Budapest, Fortuna utca 3.<br />
+36 (1) 225 0377<br />
hello@pest-buda.com<br />
PestBuda 177x124 mm 4.indd 1 www.wheretraveler.com <strong>2019</strong>.07.23. 11:38:46 33
DINING<br />
keep evenings lively. Pest V, Március 15 tér 4.<br />
T: (+36 70) 311 1969, www.kiosk-budapest.hu<br />
Map B5<br />
KOLLÁZS - BRASSERIE & BAR Michelin-recommended<br />
restaurant in the Jugendstil-style<br />
Gresham Palace that houses the Four Seasons<br />
hotel. Magnificent view of the riverfront with<br />
Chain Bridge and Castle Hill. Pest V, Széchenyi<br />
tér 5. T: (+36 1) 268 6000, www.fourseasons.<br />
com/buda- pest Map D4<br />
IGUANA BAR AND GRILL A Tex-Mex haven with<br />
homemade burritos, spicy salsas, addictive<br />
chips, and frozen Margaritas in a classic downtown<br />
cantina popular with expats. Open daily<br />
11:30am- midnight. Pest V, Zoltán u. 16. T: (+36 1)<br />
331 4352, www.iguana.hu Map D5<br />
KŐLEVES Hotspot in the heart of the Jewish<br />
district. The restaurant serves filling Hungarian<br />
cuisine with Jewish specialties such as baked<br />
beans and goose leg. Don’t miss the adjacent<br />
garden bar, where people hang out for hours<br />
over beer, wine, and pub food. Pest VII, Kazinczy<br />
u. 41. T: (+36 20) 213 5999, www.koleves.<br />
com Map C7<br />
M. RESTAURANT Ever-changing menu of Hungarian-inspired<br />
fresh foods. Pest VII, Kertész u. 48. T:<br />
(+36 1) 322 3108, www.metterem.hu Map D7<br />
MÁK BISTRO A polished, Michelin-recommended<br />
hangout for high-quality Scandinavian-inspired<br />
cuisine served without pretension. Seasonal<br />
dishes are created with artistic flair and paired<br />
with extraordinary Hungarian wines. Closed on<br />
Mon. Pest V, Vigyázó Ferenc u. 4. T: (+36 30) 723<br />
9383, www.mak.hu Map D4<br />
MANNA LOUNGE A buzzing restaurant set atop<br />
the tunnel running under Castle Hill, with cool<br />
music and excellent wines. Closed on Sat and<br />
Sun. Buda I, Palota út 17. T: (+36 20) 999 9188,<br />
www.mannal- ounge.com Map C3<br />
MAZEL TOV An upscale ruin pub/restaurant<br />
showcasing Middle Eastern flavors. The highlight<br />
is the gorgeous garden. Pest VII, Akácfa u.<br />
47. T: (+36 70) 626 4280, www.facebook. com/<br />
mazeltovbp Map C7<br />
MEZZO MUSIC RESTAURANT Hungarian food<br />
with international twists grace the menu at this<br />
family-run Art Deco eatery that entices with<br />
intimate live music performances. Buda XII,<br />
Maros u. 28. T: (+36 1) 356 3565, www.mezzorestaurant.hu<br />
Map E1<br />
OLIMPIA There is no paper menu at this quirky<br />
fine dining establishment. Instead, a small<br />
number of constantly changing dishes are<br />
written on a board, featuring ingredients that<br />
are personally delivered by farmers. Ideal for<br />
the culinary curious, all dishes here, served in<br />
a tasting-menu format, are a surprise. Pest VII,<br />
Alpár u. 5. T: (+36 1) 321 0680, www.alparutca5.<br />
hu Map D9<br />
ONYX One of the few restaurants with a Michelin<br />
star, this place is glamorously theatrical. Precise,<br />
highly skilled cooking results in Hungarian dishes<br />
with a modern twist. Closed on Sun, booking<br />
absolutely essential. Pest V, Vörösmarty tér<br />
7-8. T: (+36 30) 508 0622, www. onyxrestaurant.<br />
hu Map C5<br />
PETRUS Michelin-recommended friendly neighborhood<br />
bistro where Budapest meets Paris<br />
in both food and ambience. Cooking is rustic,<br />
with bold flavors and a homely touch. Its outof-the-way<br />
location only adds to the charm.<br />
Closed on Mon. Pest IX, Ferenc tér 2-3, T: (+36 1)<br />
951 2597, www.petrusrestaurant.hu Off Map<br />
PRESIDENT This Michelin-recommended restaurant<br />
atop the hotel of the same name is the<br />
only place with a full view onto the magnificent<br />
Jugendstil roof of the Postal Savings Bank,<br />
designed by Ődön Lechner. Pest V, Hold u. 3-5,<br />
T: (+36 1) 373 8200, www.hotelpresident.hu<br />
Map D5<br />
ROBINSON A romantic location on a tree-lined<br />
pond in City Park. Come for a light lunch or a<br />
dinner that promises a Latin guitar serenade.<br />
Pest XIV, in City Park. T: (+36 1) 422 0222, www.<br />
robinsonrestaurant. hu Map F8<br />
SPÍLER BISZTRÓ Relaxed joint<br />
offering Hungarian classics and<br />
great street food in buzzing<br />
Gozsdu Udvar. The place morphs into a bar in<br />
the evening, offering a wide selection of Hungarian<br />
craft beer, wines, and spirits. On buzzy<br />
weekend nights, a DJ spins records. Open:<br />
Mon-Sun 8am -2am. Pest, VII, Király utca 13.,<br />
Gozsdu udvar T.: (+361) 878 1320 Map C6<br />
SPÍLER BUDA After two popular<br />
hangouts in downtown’s<br />
Gozsdu Udvar, Spíler had set<br />
foot on the Buda side. This bistropub offers<br />
hand-crafted burgers, pizzas, superfood dishes,<br />
along with an impressive steak and wine selection.<br />
Buda XII, Alkotás u. 53. www.spilerbuda.<br />
hu Off Map SPINOZA CAFÉ A cozy, romantic,<br />
beautifully traditional Hungarian restaurant<br />
with a Jewish touch. Live piano music nightly<br />
and klezmer shows every Friday evening. Pest<br />
VII, Dob u. 15. T: (+36 1) 413 7488, www.spinozacafe.hu<br />
Map C6<br />
SPOON CAFÉ & LOUNGE Riverboat restaurant<br />
docked on the Danube Promenade offering<br />
international cuisine and panoramic Budapest<br />
riverfront views. Pest V, moored on the Pest riverbank<br />
by the Chain Bridge. T: (+36 1) 411 0933,<br />
www.spooncafe.hu Map C4-5<br />
TAVERNA DIONYSOS Greek appetizers, charcoal-<br />
grilled meats, and seafood are served<br />
alongside Greek wines and panoramic views of<br />
Gellért Hill. Pest V, Belgrád rkp. 16. T: (+36 1) 318<br />
1222, www.dionysos.hu Map B5<br />
TIGRIS This elegant, Michelin-recommended<br />
spot serves only the freshest ingredients and<br />
finest cuts of meats. Closed on Sun, Pest V,<br />
Mérleg u. 10. T: (+36 1) 317 3715, www.tigrisrestaurant.hu<br />
Map C-D5<br />
TRÓFEA GRILL RESTAURANTS Eat and drink as<br />
much as you like for a fixed price, at three locations<br />
in Buda and Pest, www. trofea.hu Buda II,<br />
Margit krt. 2. T: (+36 1) 438 9090 Map F4; Pest<br />
VI, Király u. 30-32. T: (+36 20) 999 8797 Map C6;<br />
Pest XIII, Visegrádi u. 50/A. T: (+36 1) 270 0366<br />
Off Map<br />
VINTAGE GARDEN This romantic Provencal-style<br />
bistro is a haven amid the area’s boisterous<br />
bars. Pest VII, Dob u. 21. T: (+36 30) 790 6619,<br />
www.facebook. com/vintagegardenbudapest<br />
Map C6<br />
ZELLER BISZTRÓ Family-run Zeller is a favorite<br />
among locals and visitors. The atmosphere is<br />
relaxed and welcoming, beginning with sips<br />
of gratis elderflower sparkling wine. Open Tue-<br />
Sun 12pm- 12am. T: (+36) 30 651 0880. Pest V,<br />
Hercegprímás u 18., Map D5<br />
AMERICAN, BRITISH<br />
JOHN BULL SPORT PUB This popular<br />
restaurant offers full English breakfasts<br />
and ale on tap. Watch the games here.<br />
Pest V, Apáczai Csere János u. 17. T: (+36<br />
1) 338 2168, www.johnbullsportpub. hu<br />
Map C4<br />
HARD ROCK CAFE Legendary American restaurant<br />
with rock ’n’ roll artifacts on the walls and<br />
plump burgers and barbecue on the menu.<br />
Pest V, Deák Ferenc u. 3-5 (at Vörösmarty tér).<br />
www.facebook. com/hardrockcafebudapest<br />
Map C5<br />
ASIAN<br />
NOBU Michelin-recommended outpost of the<br />
Nobu restaurant empire. It features signature<br />
dishes like yellowtail sashimi with jalapeno and<br />
Alaskan black cod with miso. Kempinski Hotel<br />
Corvinus: Pest V, Erzsébet tér 7-8. T: (+36 1) 429<br />
4242, www.noburestaurants. com/ budapest<br />
Map C5<br />
SPÍLER SHANGHAI Inspired by<br />
the 1930s in Shanghai, this bar<br />
and bistro offers a wide variety<br />
of cocktails and delicacies with an Asian twist<br />
in a rustic, industrial setting. Pest VII, Király u. 13.<br />
T: (+36 1) 878 1309, www.spilerbp.hu/shanghai<br />
Map C6<br />
FRENCH<br />
ARAZ Michelin recommended. The restaurant<br />
is part of the Zara Intercontinental hotel in<br />
the Jewish Quarter and offers Hungarian and<br />
French cuisine amid the elegant Art Nouveau<br />
ambience of a former bath house. There are<br />
also dinners with folk music and dancing on Friday<br />
evenings. Pest VII, Dohány u. 42-44. T: (+36<br />
1) 815 1100, www.araz.hu Map C7<br />
LA PERLE NOIR Michelin-recommended sophisticated<br />
restaurant inside the Mamaison hotel<br />
that draws upon French and Hungarian traditions<br />
on the menu. Pest VI, Andrássy u.111, T:<br />
(+36 1) 483 1355, www.laperlenoire.hu Map F7<br />
PARIS BUDAPEST Michelin-recommended<br />
French haute cuisine and Hungarian specialties<br />
prepared with a Gallic flavor. Pest V, Széchenyi<br />
tér 2. T: (+36 1) 235 5600, www.parisbudapest.<br />
hu Map D6<br />
ITALIAN &<br />
MEDITERRANEAN<br />
IL TERZO CERCHIO Urban Italian eatery with<br />
exposed oven and brick ceilings, specializing in<br />
hand-tossed pizza. Pest VII, Dohány u. 40. T: (+36<br />
1) 354 0788, www.ilterzocerchio.hu Map C7<br />
34 <strong>WHERE</strong> BUDAPEST I SEPTEMBER <strong>2019</strong>
DINING<br />
JAMIE'S ITALIAN BUDA<br />
CASTLE The famous British<br />
chef’s first restaurant in<br />
Central-Europe, located in the heart of the<br />
historic Buda Castle district. The restaurant is<br />
spacious and full of light, the perfect place to<br />
enjoy a meal with friends or family, or stop in<br />
for a drink at the end of the day. The menu is<br />
packed with Italian classics, including antipasti,<br />
pizza, and tiramisu. Buda I, Szentháromság utca<br />
9-1, T: (+36 1) 800 9212, www. jamieoliver.com/<br />
italian/hungary Map D3<br />
JAMIE OLIVER’S PIZZERIA<br />
BUDAPEST Located in the<br />
heart of the party district, in<br />
Gozsdu Udvar, this is the first<br />
pizzeria in the Jamie Oliver empire. The fashionable<br />
restaurant offers thin, hand-stretched<br />
pizzas topped with quality ingredients, as well<br />
as salads and pastas. Pest VII, Király u. 13. www.<br />
jamiespizzeria.hu Map C6<br />
KRIZIA Elevated but homey dishes, attentive<br />
service, and a cozy atmosphere make Krizia a<br />
go-to when Italian cravings strike. Open Mon-<br />
Sat noon-3pm and 6:30pm-midnight. Pest VI,<br />
Mozsár u. 12. T.: (+36 1) 331 8711, www. ristorantekrizia.hu<br />
Map D6<br />
JEWISH & KOSHER<br />
HANNA Orthodox kosher restaurant. Traditional<br />
Jewish dishes including cholent and gefilte fish,<br />
Fri- day dinner. Mon-Thu 9am-10pm, Fri 9am-6pm,<br />
Sat noon-10pm, Sun 9am-10pm. Pest VII, Dob u. 35.<br />
T: (+36 1) 342 1072, www.koserhanna.hu Map C6<br />
ROSENSTEIN One of Budapest’s most popular<br />
Jewish restaurants in a hidden-away corner<br />
near Keleti railway station. Open Mon-Sat<br />
noon-11pm. Pest VIII, Mosonyi u. 3. T: (+36 1) 333<br />
3492, www. rosenstein.hu Map C8<br />
SPANISH<br />
PATA NEGRA Great tapas, cheese, and Spanish<br />
wine make this a hit with the locals. www.<br />
patanegra.hu Pest IX, Kálvin tér 8. T: (+36 1) 215<br />
5616 Map B6; Buda II, Frankel Leó u. 55. T: (+36 1)<br />
438 3227 Off Map<br />
VAS MANCI Cozy and friendly, this low-key restaurant<br />
skillfully combines Spanish and Middle<br />
Eastern flavors. Open: Mon-Sun 11am-10 pm.<br />
Pest, VIII Vas utca 3. T.: (+36)208008953 Map C6<br />
VEGETARIAN<br />
DELI’S VEGAN Close to Allee shopping center in<br />
Buda, this restaurant was founded by a former<br />
yoga instructor and features dishes like tikka<br />
masala, basmati rice, and chestnut-chocolate<br />
cake Open Mon-Fri 11am- 6pm. Buda XIV,<br />
Szabolcska Mihály u. 3. Off Map<br />
ÉDENI VEGÁN One of the first vegan restaurants<br />
in the city, this restaurant has offered its juices,<br />
soups, cakes, and other hearty dishes for<br />
over 10 years at the foot of Castle Hill. Open<br />
Mon-Sun 8am-8pm. Buda I Iskola u. 31. www.<br />
edenivegan.hu Map E3<br />
VEGA CITY Vegetarian fast food near the Hungarian<br />
National Museum, offering fried vegetables,<br />
stews, and salads for a quick bite. Pest V,<br />
Múzeum krt. 23-25, www. vegacity.hu Map B6<br />
VEGAN LOVE Bright, vegan fast food joint serving<br />
creations like lentil burgers and chile hot dogs,<br />
as well as salads and fries washed down with<br />
natural cola. Buda XI, Bartók Béla út 9. www.<br />
veganlove.hu Off Map<br />
WINE TASTING<br />
ANDANTE WINE BAR In this heritage riverfront<br />
building they serve only Hungarian wines, paired<br />
with local delicacies. Guests can enjoy it all while<br />
looking out onto the Danube and beyond. Buda<br />
I, Bem rkp.2. T: (+36 1) 415 2677, Map C4<br />
BALTAZÁR WINE BAR Adjacent to the restaurant is<br />
the wine bar, featuring an impressive collection<br />
around 200 different varieties of Central European<br />
wines. Buda I, Országház u. 31. T: (+36 1)<br />
300 7050, www. baltazarbudapest.com Map D2<br />
BORLABOR Brick-lined wine cellar serving Hungarian<br />
and Transylvanian cuisine prepared with<br />
contemporary touches. As a retro touch, food<br />
is presented on old-fashioned wooden plates.<br />
Pest V, Veres Pálné u. 7. T: (+36 1) 328 0382, www.<br />
borlaboretterem.hu Map B6<br />
BORBÍRÓSÁG Choose from more than 60 Hungarian<br />
wines served by the glass or the bottle.<br />
Frequent wine tastings also introduce visitors<br />
to Hungarian selections. Closed on Sundays.<br />
Take a shot for a free shot!<br />
hungarianhellkitchen.com<br />
Pest IX, Csarnok tér 5. T: (+36 1) 219 0902, www.<br />
borbirosag.com Map A6<br />
DOBLÓ BOR & BÁR A place to relax and talk for a<br />
few hours over a glass of fine wine and a meatand-cheese<br />
platter. It’s a much calmer alternative<br />
to the surrounding raucous bars, but no<br />
less lively when there’s live music. Pest VII, Dob<br />
u. 20. T: (+36 20) 398 8863, www.budapestwine.<br />
com.hu Map C6<br />
DROP SHOP As well as Hungarian and international<br />
wines, this expat-popular place specializes<br />
in Champagne. Tastings are accompanied<br />
by tapas. Pest V, Balassi Bálint u. 27. T.:(+36 30)<br />
345 3739, www.dropshop.hu Map F4<br />
DIVINO Michelin-recommended wine bar right<br />
beside the Basilica with a superb selection of<br />
Hungarian wines. Simple, rustic dishes are also<br />
available. In the summer, the terrace is packed<br />
with after-work crowds. No reservations possible.<br />
Pest V, Szent István tér 3. T: (+36 70) 935<br />
3980, www.divinoborbar.hu Map D5<br />
KADARKA – Low-key from the outside, inside there<br />
is an extensive list of Hungarian wines, a professional<br />
staff, and tasty dishes. Pest, VII, Király u. 42.<br />
T: (+36 1) 266 5094, www.kadarkabar.hu Map D6<br />
ST. ANDREA WINE & SKYBAR Marvel at the<br />
beautiful city center panorama while sipping<br />
wines made at the renowned St. Andrea winery<br />
in Eger. Pest V, Váci u. 1. T: (+ 36 30) 300 3930,<br />
www.standreaskybar.hu Map C5<br />
Hungarian traditions<br />
and tastes in the<br />
heart of Budapest<br />
If you are a lover of grilling,<br />
if you have love the smell and<br />
also the presentation of the<br />
special charcoal grilled food<br />
tasting, you can find it all here!<br />
Make yourself at home!<br />
1052 Budapest,<br />
Kígyó street 4.<br />
(near Ferenciek tere)<br />
+36 1 787 8736<br />
Open: M-Su:<br />
11:00-23:00<br />
www.wheretraveler.com 35
DAYTIME TRANSPORT<br />
04:30–23:50<br />
ESSENTIALS<br />
TICKET INFORMATION<br />
TOURIST INFO POINTS Official info points can be<br />
found at traffic hub Deák square (Pest V., Sütő utca<br />
2. Map C5); in the Buda Castle (Buda I, Tárnok utca<br />
15. Map D3 9am-6pm), and next to City Park, at<br />
the Ice Rink (Pest XIV, Olof Palme sétány 5. 9am-<br />
7pm) and at both terminals of Liszt Ferenc Airport,<br />
open 8 and 10 am to 10 pm. You can purchase the<br />
Budapest Card at all of these locations. The card<br />
gives you free public transport, access to museums<br />
for 27 days and added discounts to guided<br />
tours, spas, restaurants, and other attractions. Find<br />
more information online: www.budapestinfo.hu<br />
PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION Budapest has an extensive<br />
public transportation system with buses,<br />
trams, trolleys, four metro lines, a cogwheel train,<br />
funicular, suburban railway lines and boats covering<br />
the city. Most lines operate daily from 4am to<br />
about midnight, trams 4 and 6 operate all night<br />
as do several night buses. Tickets are available at<br />
ticket machines at all metro stops and traffic hubs.<br />
Unless you buy a pass, single tickets are valid<br />
for a single ride, not a time period – if you know<br />
you’ll take several rides, your best option is to get<br />
a 24-hour or 72-hour pass, valid on all modes of<br />
transport. You need to validate your tickets when<br />
you enter a metro station, or on overground<br />
vehicles in orange validators. Ticket inspection is<br />
carried out by personal staff wearing armbands<br />
or badges. Fines can be paid on the spot or alternatively<br />
at the Public Transport Office, check their<br />
official website for details: www.bkk.hu/en<br />
GETTING AROUND<br />
TRAIN STATIONS The four main train stations<br />
(“pályaudvar”) are Nyugati (western, Map E5);<br />
Keleti (eastern, Map D8); Déli (southern, Map D2),<br />
and Kelenföldi (Off Map). All are accessible by<br />
metro, and the first three stations have booths for<br />
international tickets where you can by your ticket<br />
in person.<br />
TAXIS Budapest has a regulated taxi network:<br />
licensed taxis are yellow and work with standard<br />
prices. Estonian taxify is also available, and operates<br />
at the standardized rate: meters start from<br />
700 HUF (~2 EUR) and the price is 300 HUF (~1<br />
EUR) per kilometer.<br />
BICYCLE RENTALS Budapest lends itself to cycling<br />
with the flatness of Pest and slightly hilly but<br />
picturesque Buda. Tens of thousands of locals<br />
commute every day on two wheels, due to which,<br />
and the consistent efforts of Hungarian Cyclists’<br />
Club, the infrastructure has improved a lot in<br />
recent years. Editor’s choice: RideKálmán bikeshop<br />
right next to iconic ruinbar Szimpla offers excellent<br />
service for renting and servicing bikes. Their<br />
motto: ”Life is too short to ride a shit bike<br />
PUBLIC: The unmissable green bikes (BUBI) provided<br />
by MOL belong to the city’s public transport<br />
system: you need to register and purchase tickets<br />
at the public transport company BKK. The first half<br />
hour is for free, but make sure you are conscious<br />
of the clock, as long rides may run the bill high.<br />
COMPANIES: Donkey Republic: www.donkey.bike<br />
Yellow Zebra: +36 20 929-7506, Pest VI, Lázár utca<br />
16. Map D6 – www.yellowzebrabudapest.com<br />
Ride Kálmán: +36 20 248 1446, Pest VII, Kazinczy u.<br />
12 Map C6 – www.facebook.com/ridekalman<br />
BOAT SERVICES Budapest has several boat lines<br />
within the public transport system, not the fastest<br />
but maybe the cutest way of getting about. The<br />
main ports are at Batthány tér (Map E4) Akadémia<br />
(D4) and Vigadó (Map C5). The time schedule<br />
subject to change depending on weather and<br />
water level conditions. See the official webpage<br />
for information, www.bkk.hu.<br />
AIRPORT TRANSPORTATION Liszt Ferenc Airport<br />
has two international terminals: 2A and 2B.<br />
See www.bud.hu/english for complete airport<br />
information.<br />
PUBLIC: Bus 100E gives you a straight ride downtown,<br />
for a fee double the price of single tickets.<br />
Bus 200E takes you to the end of metro line 3 for<br />
a normal price. It’s a good idea to have HUF in<br />
cash, as the queuing can get chaotic, and ticket<br />
vending machines clogged up.<br />
TAXI: Főtaxi is the authorised company to serve<br />
the airport from kerbisde pick-ups. Rates to<br />
dwontown locations come usually come to<br />
8-9000 HUF (25-30 EUR).<br />
SHUTTLE: miniBUD offers door-to transfer, you<br />
can order online. The bigger your group the<br />
lower the price, so it’s worth ordering together.<br />
A trip downtown for one person costs about 17<br />
EUR one way. Order at: www.minibud.hu/en, +36<br />
1 550 0000<br />
36 <strong>WHERE</strong> BUDAPEST I SEPTEMBER <strong>2019</strong>
ESSENTIALS<br />
MEET<br />
A LOCAL<br />
Every issue we chat with a different Budapest<br />
insider. This month it’s Dániel Német, an economist<br />
and environmental engineer who, as the cofounder<br />
of Night Mayor Budapest, is an advocate<br />
for sustainable, quality nightlife.<br />
Tell us about your interesting position as Budapest’s night ambassador.<br />
It’s essentially understanding how Budapest, its night-time economy, and culture work<br />
after the sun has set, to gather relevant insights in order to assist decision makers,<br />
entrepreneurs, and researchers. We’ve been building a network of nightlife doers and<br />
influencers in the past two years to improve the quality of nightlife both by educating<br />
consumers and producers. I also represent Budapest at European conferences, events,<br />
and in nightlife advocacy networks.<br />
What do you think makes Budapest's nightlife scene so compelling?<br />
Budapest nightlife is small but sexy as it caters to everyone. From jazz to techno, from<br />
board games to bath culture, from Michelin-starred restaurants to new-age street food,<br />
the city literally packs everything into a small central area, which can be done entirely<br />
on foot if someone visits the city for a couple of days. Summertime almost drags out all<br />
year long now, and we have an endless stream of festivals, from large ones like Sziget,<br />
to small but high-end ones like Kolorado, but also subcultural and boutique ones,<br />
which are just pearls to discover if you are into that. The city is also doing extremely<br />
well the past few years in fashion and design, classical music, and contemporary highculture<br />
performances.<br />
If you have an out-of-town guest, is there one bar that you would<br />
absolutely take them to?<br />
We have been working a lot with the Night Embassy of Budapest and we collected 60<br />
must-see spots of the city that we honestly believe make Budapest what it is today.<br />
Some of the bars include Telep-Art Galéria, Bar Pharma, and Pontoon. My personal<br />
recommendation is Ambient Bar, a small, cozy club that plays electronic music.<br />
How do you spend your days off in Budapest?<br />
I’m never bored. I try to go to as many interesting and edgy cultural events as I can,<br />
but I also enjoy a weekend outside in nature, away from the never sleeping city lights.<br />
USEFUL INFORMATION<br />
LOST AND FOUND For articles lost on public<br />
transportation, go to Pest VII, Akácfa u. 18. +36 1<br />
258 4636 Map C7<br />
CENTRAL EMERGENCY HOTLINE: 112<br />
ENGLISH SPEAKING POLICE HOTLINE:<br />
+361438-8080<br />
24 HOUR PHARMACIES Will dispense routine<br />
medications without a prescription. Pest VI, Teréz<br />
körút 41 Map E6, +36 1 311 4439, Buda XII, Alkotás<br />
út 1/B, +36 1355 4691 Map D2<br />
POLICE CRIME PREVENTION Like in any major<br />
metropolis, visitors should take precautions to<br />
protect themselves from criminal activity. Do not<br />
leave belongings unattended, or leave valuables<br />
in your car, and keep an eye on your bags. In<br />
case you do become a crime victim, please<br />
report the incident to the nearest police station<br />
as soon as possible, or go directly to the nearest<br />
hotel, where the staff can help you file a report<br />
promptly with the proper authorities closest to<br />
the scene of the crime<br />
POST OFFICES The post office at Keleti Railway<br />
Station (Map D8) is open 24-7.<br />
TELEPHONE CODES Budapest landlines start with<br />
+36 1, mobile operators +36 20, +36 30 or +36 70<br />
TOBACCO & ALCOHOL since a government<br />
decree of 2013 only designated tobacco shops,<br />
or „Nemzeti Dohánybolt” are authorised to sell tobacco<br />
products. Look out for a design combining<br />
brown with the national colors. Smoking is not<br />
allowed in bars and restaurants except for designated<br />
areas. Purchasing alcohol varies according<br />
to district, but most shops will sell the full array<br />
of alcoholic products until closing time. Officially<br />
alcohol consumption is forbidden in public, a rule<br />
whicj often ges unobserved.<br />
www.wheretraveler.com 37
Sion lépcső<br />
Alkotás u.<br />
Győri út<br />
D<br />
Alsóhegy u.<br />
Elvis Presley tér<br />
Vajkay u.<br />
Baba u.<br />
Ali u.<br />
Vend u.<br />
Szeréna út<br />
Kol<br />
Cserfa u. Lukács u.<br />
Mar<br />
MAPS<br />
Gárdonyi Géza út<br />
Gábor Áron köz<br />
Fillér u.<br />
Detrekő u.<br />
Herman Ottó út<br />
Határőr út<br />
Stromfeld Aurél út<br />
Fátra tér<br />
Törökvész lejtő<br />
Endrődi Sándor u.<br />
Présház u.<br />
Detrekő u .<br />
Kopogó lépcső<br />
Németvölgyi út.<br />
Tövis u.<br />
Trombitás út<br />
Álom u.<br />
Tusnádi u.<br />
Nárcisz u.<br />
Gaál József út<br />
Kissvábhegyi út<br />
Ruszti út<br />
Határőr út<br />
Galántai u.<br />
Korompai u.<br />
Csopaki u.<br />
Alma u.<br />
Lévay u.<br />
Lorántffy Zsuzsanna út<br />
Acsády Ignác u.<br />
Határőr út<br />
Határőr út<br />
Goldmark Károly u.<br />
Törpe u.<br />
Balogvár u.<br />
Székács u.<br />
Búzavirág u.<br />
Temes u.<br />
Maros u.<br />
Agárdi útHollósy Simon u.<br />
Szolyva u.<br />
Levendula u. Margaréta u.<br />
Sashegyi út<br />
Zólyomi lépcső<br />
Acsády Ignác u.<br />
Jagelló út<br />
Vas Gereben u.<br />
Lejtő út<br />
Acsády Ignác u.<br />
Orbánhegyi út<br />
Szendi u.<br />
Szendi árok<br />
Kiss János altábornagy u.<br />
Stromfeld Aurél út<br />
1<br />
21 HUNGARIAN<br />
KITCHEN<br />
Buda I, Fortuna u. 21.<br />
T: (+36 1) 202 2113<br />
www.21restaurant.hu<br />
2<br />
PIERROT<br />
Buda I, Fortuna u. 14.<br />
T: (+36 1) 375 6971<br />
www.pierrot.hu<br />
Városmajor u.<br />
3<br />
Bíró u.<br />
ÉS BISZTRÓ<br />
Pest V,<br />
Deák Ferenc u. 12-14.<br />
Abos u.<br />
T: (+36 1) 429 3990<br />
www.esbisztro.hu<br />
4<br />
Zsámbéki u.<br />
Zeke u.<br />
Istenhegyi út<br />
Németvölgyi út<br />
Apor Vilmos tér<br />
Vas Gereben u.<br />
Szánkó u.<br />
Sashegyi út<br />
Sasfiók u.<br />
Bogár utca<br />
Árkay Bertalan sétány<br />
Maros u.<br />
38 <strong>WHERE</strong> BUDAPEST I SEPTEMBER <strong>2019</strong><br />
Karap utca<br />
Tóth Lőrinc u.<br />
Hollósy Simon u.<br />
Szamos u.<br />
Kiss János altábornagy u.<br />
Tájék u.<br />
Muraközi u.<br />
Mák u.<br />
Szpáhi u.<br />
Kapor u.<br />
Ervin utca<br />
Bég u.<br />
Tövis u.<br />
Balogvár u.<br />
Érmelléki u.<br />
Trombitás út<br />
Szilágyi Erzsébet fasor<br />
SPÍLER BUDA<br />
Buda XII,<br />
Alkotás u. 53 (MOM Park)<br />
T: (+36 1) 800 9218<br />
www.spilerbuda.hu<br />
Bistro & Hotel & Terasz<br />
5<br />
Böszörményi út<br />
Gébics utca<br />
Vércse u.<br />
PEST-BUDA BISTRO<br />
Buda I, Fortuna u. 3.<br />
T: (+36 1) 225 0377<br />
www.pest-buda.com<br />
Csemegi u.<br />
V<br />
ércse köz<br />
Alvinci út<br />
Ráth György u.<br />
Székács u.<br />
Tóth Lőrinc u.<br />
Ügyész u.<br />
Meredek u.<br />
Szpáhi u.<br />
Garas u.<br />
Árvácska u.<br />
Felvinci út<br />
Rókushegyi lépcső<br />
Fillér utca<br />
Roskovics u.<br />
Hollósy Simon u.<br />
Jagelló út<br />
Kulpa u.<br />
Nyúl u.<br />
Csaba u.<br />
Gyógyfű u.<br />
Tóth Lőrinc u.<br />
Királyhágó tér<br />
Böszörményi út<br />
Nagy Jenő u.<br />
Káló esperes u.<br />
Vend u.<br />
Marczibányi tér<br />
Ezredes u.<br />
Tartsay Vilmos u.<br />
Dolgos u.<br />
Pentelei Molnár u.<br />
Aranka u.<br />
Marczibányi tér<br />
Káplár u.<br />
Retek u.<br />
Kiss János altábornagy u.<br />
Kléh István u.<br />
Ribáry u.<br />
Marczibányi tér Lövőház u.<br />
Kékgolyó u.<br />
Forint u.<br />
Ezredes u.<br />
Brassai Sámuel u.<br />
Kálló esperes u.<br />
Vérhalom u.<br />
Pengő köz<br />
Millenáris park<br />
Magyar Jakobinusok tere<br />
Schwartzer Ferenc u.<br />
Hertelendy u.<br />
Hajnóczy József u.<br />
Maros u.<br />
Derkovits u.<br />
Beck Ö. Fülöp u.<br />
Csörsz u. Csörsz u.<br />
Sirály u.<br />
Veréb u.<br />
G<br />
F<br />
E<br />
D<br />
C<br />
Tulipán u.<br />
Szoboszlai utca<br />
Beethoven u.<br />
B<br />
Fürj u.<br />
A<br />
Törökvész út<br />
Garas u.<br />
Szamos u.<br />
Ráth György u.<br />
Somorjai u.<br />
Cimbalom köz<br />
Tapolcsányi u.<br />
Gyógyfű u.<br />
Kupeczky u.<br />
Eszter utca<br />
Pajzs u.<br />
Aranka u.<br />
Greguss u.<br />
Istenhegyi út Nagyenyed u.<br />
Németvölgyi út<br />
Ugocsa u.<br />
Jagelló út<br />
Böszörményi út<br />
Alsó Törökvész út<br />
Csaba u.<br />
Bimbó út<br />
Városmajor u.<br />
Királyhágó u.<br />
Márvány u.<br />
Jagelló út<br />
Hegyalja út<br />
Breznó köz<br />
Cimbalom u.<br />
Marczibányi tér<br />
Krisztina körút Krisztina körút<br />
Hegyalja út<br />
Vérhalom tér<br />
Bimbó út<br />
Bimbó út<br />
Rét u.<br />
Dékán u.<br />
Eszter u.<br />
Fény u.<br />
Retek u.<br />
Berkenye u.<br />
Áldás u.<br />
Győri út<br />
Muskotály u.<br />
Tizedes u.<br />
Kosciuszko Tádé u.<br />
Kiss János altábornagy u.<br />
Radvány u.<br />
Pajzs u.<br />
Logodi u.<br />
Áfonya u.<br />
Barsi u.<br />
Bimbó út<br />
Margit körút<br />
Széll Kálmán tér<br />
Alkotás u.<br />
Krisztina körút<br />
Vérmező út<br />
Krisztina körút<br />
4<br />
BAH-csomópont<br />
Ady Endre u.<br />
Körmöci u.<br />
Nedecvár u.<br />
Várfok u.<br />
Józsefhegyi u.<br />
Baka u.<br />
Lövőház u.<br />
Füge u.<br />
Márvány u.<br />
Hegyalja út<br />
Budaörsi út<br />
Palánta u.<br />
Mátray u.<br />
Széna tér<br />
Bajmóci u.<br />
Cserje u.<br />
Keleti Károly u.<br />
Győző u.<br />
Otthon u.<br />
Mandula u.<br />
Kis Rókus u.<br />
Koronaőr köz<br />
Budaörsi út<br />
Márvány u.<br />
Kapitány utca<br />
Menta u.<br />
Muskotály köz<br />
Szemlőhegy utca<br />
Ady Endre u.<br />
Táltos u.<br />
Bálint u.<br />
Batthyány u.<br />
Logodi u.<br />
Holdvilág u.<br />
Bolyai u.<br />
Levél u.<br />
Kitaibel Pál u.<br />
Fajd u.<br />
Petrezselyem u.<br />
Varsányi Irén u.<br />
Krisztina körút<br />
Feszty Árpád u.<br />
Győző u.<br />
Vérhalom u.<br />
Bán u.<br />
Társ u.<br />
Schweidel u.<br />
Szemlőhegy u.<br />
Margit körút<br />
Kuny Domokos u.<br />
Fiáth János u.<br />
Lovas út<br />
Kapisztrán<br />
tér<br />
Úri u.<br />
Kosciuszko Tádé u.<br />
Pálya u.<br />
Avar u.<br />
Hegyalja út<br />
Villányi út<br />
Bajmóci u.<br />
u.<br />
Szittya u.<br />
Schweidel u.<br />
Ostrom u.<br />
Csejtei u.<br />
Rózsahegy u.<br />
Bécsi kapu tér<br />
Zsolt u.<br />
Zivatar u.<br />
Rómer Flóris u.<br />
Buday László utca<br />
Nándor u.Országház u.<br />
Lovas út<br />
Szemlőhegy u.<br />
Rómer Flóris u.<br />
Bimbó út<br />
Fényes Elek u.<br />
Jurányi u.<br />
Bolyai u.<br />
Orgona u.<br />
Jurányi u.<br />
Csalogány u.<br />
Hattyú utca<br />
Kard u.<br />
Róka u.<br />
Ág u.<br />
Erőd u.<br />
Varsányi Irén u.<br />
Mikó u.<br />
Otthon u.<br />
Józsefhegyi u.<br />
Kút u.<br />
Erőd u.<br />
Fortuna u.<br />
Csetneki u.<br />
Palatinus u.<br />
Sarolta u.<br />
Buday László u.<br />
Keleti Károly u.<br />
Nyárs u.<br />
Bajvívó u.<br />
Csukló u.<br />
Borbolya u.<br />
Erőd u.<br />
Szász Károly u.<br />
Csapláros u.<br />
Kapás u.<br />
Hess András tér<br />
Szentháromság u.<br />
Naphegy tér<br />
Kapás u.<br />
Szentháromság<br />
tér<br />
Margit u<br />
Mária tér<br />
Úri u. Dísz tér<br />
Pauler u. Pauler u.<br />
Tigris u.<br />
Harkály u.<br />
Mecenzéf u.<br />
Bolyai u.<br />
Zsolt u.<br />
Vérhalom u.<br />
Szabó Ilonka utca<br />
Naphegy u.<br />
Tibor u.<br />
Mészáros u.<br />
Avar u.<br />
Párduc u.<br />
Táncsics Mihály u.<br />
Fortuna köz<br />
Fenyő u.<br />
Tigris u.<br />
Ankara u.<br />
6<br />
1<br />
25<br />
Mészáros u.<br />
Attila út<br />
Mészáros u.<br />
Krisztina tér<br />
Csap u.<br />
Apostol u.<br />
Gellérthegy u.<br />
Derék u.<br />
Veronika utca<br />
Mechwart tér<br />
Batthyány u.<br />
Tábor u.<br />
Szeréna köz<br />
Toldy Ferenc u.<br />
Roham u.<br />
Hunfalvy u.<br />
7<br />
Logodi u.<br />
Piroska u.<br />
Gombocz Zoltán u.<br />
Késmárki u.<br />
Naphegy u.<br />
Orvos u.<br />
Turbán u.<br />
Kacsa u.<br />
Aladár u.<br />
Somlói út<br />
Köbölkút u.<br />
Horvát u.<br />
Fazekas u.<br />
Lisznyai u.<br />
Tárnok u.<br />
Palota út<br />
Fém u.<br />
Dezső u.<br />
Galeotti u.<br />
Szent Sebestyén köz<br />
Alsóhegy u.<br />
Alagút u.<br />
Rómer Flóris u.<br />
Margit körút<br />
Krisztina körút<br />
Ménesi út<br />
Vitéz u.<br />
Berényi u.<br />
Mecset u.<br />
Mihály u.<br />
Medve u.<br />
Donáti u.<br />
Hunyadi János út<br />
Hunyadi János út<br />
Váralja u.<br />
Gellérthegy u.<br />
Kavics u.<br />
Gül Baba u.<br />
Török u.<br />
Franklin u.<br />
Szirtes út<br />
Frankel Leó út<br />
Frankel Leó út<br />
Zsigmond köz<br />
Kacsa u.<br />
Czakó utca<br />
Iskola u.<br />
Henger u.<br />
Fekete Sas u.<br />
Csónak u.<br />
Ganz u.<br />
Vitéz u.<br />
Gyula u.<br />
Donáti utca<br />
Lovarda u.<br />
Dlonáti u.<br />
Bakator u.<br />
Harcsa u.<br />
Komjádi Béla u.<br />
Frankel Leó út<br />
Margit körút<br />
Tölgyfa u.<br />
Bem József u.<br />
Batthyány u.<br />
Sarló u.<br />
Szent György u.<br />
Naphegy u.Derék u.<br />
Sánc utca<br />
Zsigmond tér<br />
Frankel Leó út Frankel Leó út<br />
Kandó Kálmán u. Királyfürdő u. Gyorskocsi u.<br />
Palota út<br />
Vidra u.<br />
Szalag utca<br />
Bodrog u.<br />
Bem József tér<br />
Corvin tér<br />
Bem rakpart<br />
Lipthay u.<br />
Markovits Iván u.<br />
Vám u.<br />
Székely u.<br />
Szőnyeg u.<br />
Dara u.<br />
Nagy Imre tér<br />
Ganz u.<br />
Kacsa u.<br />
Csalogány utca<br />
Színház u.<br />
Váralja uṖalota út<br />
Attila köz<br />
Mihály u.<br />
Naphegy u.<br />
Kelenhegyi út<br />
Üstökös u.<br />
Attila út Dózsa György tér<br />
Szirtes út<br />
Aranyhal u.<br />
Serleg u.<br />
Árpád fejedelem útja<br />
Vám u.<br />
Ponty u.<br />
Kapucinus u.<br />
Pala u.<br />
Sánc u.<br />
Slachta Margit rakpart<br />
Árpád fejedelem útja<br />
Tündérlaki mélyút<br />
Számadó utca<br />
Fő utca<br />
Vitéz u.<br />
Szilágyi Dezső tér<br />
Batthyány tér<br />
Fő utca<br />
Árpád fejedelem útja<br />
Halász u.<br />
Filozófusok sétaútja<br />
Iglói u.<br />
M<br />
Pala u.<br />
Jégverem u.<br />
Citadella út<br />
Bem rakpart<br />
ROYAL PALACE<br />
Szirom u.<br />
Szüret u.<br />
Bem rakpart<br />
Angelo Rotta rakpart<br />
Szirtes út<br />
Sztehlo Gábor rakpart<br />
Fő u.<br />
Clark Ádám tér<br />
Váralja u.<br />
Krisztina körút<br />
Kereszt u.<br />
Bérc u.<br />
Szirtes út<br />
Öntőház u.<br />
Orom u.<br />
Lánchíd utca<br />
Margit híd<br />
Attila út<br />
Somló köz<br />
Lánchíd u.<br />
Váralja u.<br />
Somlói út<br />
Szarvas tér<br />
Apród u.<br />
Apród u.<br />
Szigeti bejáró<br />
Szécheny Lánchíd<br />
Friedrich Born rakpart<br />
Apród u.<br />
Hadnagy u.<br />
Kelenhegyi út<br />
Várkert rakpart<br />
Fogas u.<br />
Döbrentei u.<br />
Attila út<br />
Margit híd<br />
Id. Antall József rakpart<br />
Fátyol u.<br />
Széchenyi rakpart<br />
PARLIAMENT<br />
CHAIN BRIDGE<br />
Széchenyi rakpart<br />
Id. Antall József rakpart<br />
Széchenyi rakpart<br />
Markó u.<br />
Zoltán u.<br />
Akadémia u.<br />
Arany János u.<br />
Széchenyi István tér<br />
Citadella sétány<br />
Rezeda u.<br />
Balaton u.<br />
Balassi Bálint u.<br />
Kossuth Lajos tér<br />
Garibaldi köz<br />
Carl Lutz rakpart<br />
Steindl Imre u.<br />
Széchenyi u.<br />
Garibaldi u.<br />
Vigyázó Ferenc u.<br />
Széchenyi István tér<br />
Tüköry u.<br />
Apáczai Csere János utca<br />
Eötvös tér<br />
CITADELLA<br />
Szabó Dezső sétány<br />
Kelenhegyi út<br />
Jászai Mari tér<br />
Verejték u.Minerva u.<br />
Pipacs u.<br />
Radnóti Miklós u.<br />
Katona József u.<br />
Pozsonyi út<br />
Budai Nagy Antal u.<br />
Falk Miksa u.<br />
Stollár Béla utca<br />
Nádor u.<br />
Kozma Ferenc u.<br />
Vécsey u.<br />
Nádor u.<br />
Honvéd u.<br />
Honvéd tér<br />
Szabadság tér<br />
Szemere u.<br />
Arany János u.<br />
Október 6. u.<br />
Hollán Ernő u.<br />
Balaton u. Balaton u.<br />
Galamb utca<br />
Március 15. tér<br />
Sas u.<br />
Hold u.<br />
Radnóti Miklós u.<br />
Stollár Béla u.<br />
Markó utca Markó u.<br />
Szalay u.<br />
Szent István park<br />
Mérleg u. Mérleg utca<br />
Dorottya u.<br />
Szent Gellért rakpart<br />
Jane Haining rakpart<br />
Mányoki út<br />
Régi posta utca<br />
Petőfi tér<br />
Herzen u.<br />
Aranykéz u.<br />
Tátra u.<br />
Kemenes u.<br />
Orlay u.<br />
Bécsi u.<br />
Nagy Ignác u.<br />
Piarista u.<br />
Gogol u.<br />
Katona József u.<br />
Bank u.<br />
Fehér Hajó u.<br />
Podmaniczky Frigyes tér<br />
Szent István tér<br />
Hercegprímás u.<br />
Csiky u.<br />
Bihari János u.<br />
Báthory utca<br />
Váci utca<br />
Vadász u.<br />
Nagysándor József u.<br />
Szervita tér<br />
Balzac u.<br />
Bárczy István u.<br />
Városház u.<br />
Petőfi Sándor utca<br />
Molnár u.<br />
Pannónia u.<br />
Kádár u.<br />
Victor Hug<br />
Csanády<br />
Gyöngyház u.<br />
Gergely Győző u. Felka utca<br />
Raoul Wallenberg u.<br />
Kelenhegyi ú<br />
Báthory u.<br />
Wekerle Sándor u.<br />
Carl Lutz rakpart<br />
Deák Ferenc u.<br />
Pozsonyi út<br />
Vígszínház u.<br />
Szent István körút<br />
Alkotmány u.<br />
Hild tér<br />
József Attila u.<br />
Türr István u.<br />
Jane Haining rakpart<br />
Raoul Wallenberg rakpart<br />
Kálmán Imre u.<br />
Aulich u.<br />
Perczel Mór u.<br />
Kiss Ernő u.<br />
Harmincad u.<br />
Molnár u.<br />
Irányi u.<br />
Miatyánk u.<br />
Erzsébet tér<br />
Kéményseprő u.<br />
Belgrád rakpart<br />
Szent Gellért rakpartSzent Gellért tér<br />
Bessenyei u.<br />
Thurzó u.<br />
Borbély u.<br />
Deák Ferenc tér<br />
Révay köz<br />
Párizsi u.<br />
Irányi u.<br />
Kárpát u.<br />
Veres Pálné u.<br />
Nyáry Pál u.<br />
Bessen<br />
Garam<br />
Podmaniczky u.<br />
Hajós u.<br />
Ipo<br />
Nyugati tér<br />
Bajcsy-Zsilinszky út<br />
Bajcsy-Zsilinszky út<br />
ST. STEPHEN'S BASILICA<br />
Erzsébet híd Szabad sajtó út<br />
1 2<br />
3 4 5<br />
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3<br />
Zi<br />
Central P<br />
Vitk<br />
Ferenc<br />
Curia u.<br />
Sörház u.<br />
Várm<br />
M<br />
lkaházi Sára rakp<br />
Szabadság híd<br />
WES<br />
Valdemar és N
Cukor u.<br />
Szűz u.<br />
Szigony u.<br />
yei u.<br />
u.<br />
ly u.<br />
o u.<br />
utca<br />
Váci út<br />
Lázár u.<br />
Révay u.<br />
assage<br />
Weiner Leó u.<br />
chy Jenő u.<br />
Ó u.<br />
Hegedűs Gyula u.<br />
Kresz Géza u.<br />
Dobó u.<br />
Káldy Gyula u.<br />
Asbóth u.<br />
Lovag u.<br />
Dessewffy u.<br />
ovics Mihály u.<br />
iek tere<br />
olnár u.<br />
Thurzó u.<br />
Visegrádi u.<br />
Dalszínház utca Dalszínház u.<br />
Károlyi u.<br />
Veres Pálné u.<br />
Gerlóczy u.<br />
Fővám tér<br />
Gogol u.<br />
TERN RAILWAY STATION<br />
art<br />
egye u.<br />
Paulay Ede u.<br />
Semmelweis u.<br />
Székely Mihály u.<br />
Gozsdu udvar<br />
Millenniumi sétány<br />
Király u.<br />
Rumbach Sebestyén u.<br />
Szép u.<br />
Papnövelde u.<br />
Havas u.<br />
ina Langlet rakpart<br />
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Nagymező u.<br />
Madách Imre út<br />
Szarka u.<br />
Fővám tér<br />
Vámház körút<br />
Dob u.<br />
Csengery u.<br />
Múzeum körút<br />
Vörösmarty u.<br />
Jókai u. Jókai tér<br />
Szondi u.<br />
Hajós u.<br />
Reáltanoda utca<br />
Eötvös u.<br />
Zichy Jenő u.<br />
Mozsár u.<br />
Vasvári Pál utca<br />
Holló u.<br />
Egyetem tér Kecskeméti u.<br />
Só u.<br />
OPERA<br />
Károly körút<br />
Ferenczy István utca<br />
Szerb u.<br />
Veres Pálné u.<br />
Fővám tér<br />
Fejér György u.<br />
Sóház u.<br />
Pipa u.<br />
Vág u.<br />
Röntgen u.<br />
Alig u.<br />
Kármán u.<br />
Tutaj u.<br />
Magyar utca<br />
Visegrádi u.<br />
Bessenyei u.<br />
Szobi u.<br />
Királyi Pál u.<br />
Csarnok tér<br />
Magyar u.<br />
Henszlmann Imre u.<br />
Közraktár u.<br />
Tisza u.<br />
Váci út<br />
ráva u.<br />
Bástya u.<br />
Gönczy Pál u.<br />
Imre utca<br />
Ronyva u.<br />
Lehel tér<br />
Lehel u.<br />
Teréz körút<br />
Paulay Ede u.<br />
Magyar u.<br />
Lónyay u.<br />
Erkel u.<br />
Nagymező u.<br />
Dohány u.<br />
Kálvin tér<br />
Síp u.<br />
Kis Diófa u.<br />
Kazinczy u.<br />
Török Pál u.<br />
Lónyay u.<br />
Lónyay u.<br />
Mátyás utca<br />
Czuczor utca<br />
Dráva u.<br />
Bulcsú u.<br />
Váci út<br />
Lőportár u.<br />
Paulay Ede u.<br />
Hegedű u.<br />
Taksony u.<br />
Lehel u.<br />
Ferdinánd híd<br />
Dévai u.<br />
Liszt Ferenc tér<br />
Csányi u.<br />
Rózsa u.<br />
Eötvös u.<br />
Bródy Sándor u.<br />
Közraktár u.<br />
Izabella u.<br />
Síp u.<br />
Angyalföldi út<br />
Oktogon<br />
Puskin u. Pollack Mihály tér<br />
Erkel u.<br />
Zsil u.<br />
Lónyay u.<br />
Bulcsú u.<br />
Lőportár u.<br />
Klauzál tér<br />
Trefort u.<br />
Gálya u.<br />
Lehel u.<br />
Podmaniczky u.<br />
Dohnányi Ernő u.<br />
Ötpacsirta u.<br />
Szabó Ervin tér<br />
Nyár utca<br />
Ráday u.<br />
Szentkirályi u.<br />
Angyalföldi út<br />
Tüzér u.<br />
Bajnok u.<br />
Szondi u.<br />
Kéthly Anna tér<br />
Nagy Diófa u.<br />
Taksony u.<br />
Kürt u.<br />
Szabolcs u.<br />
Aradi u.<br />
Szófia u.<br />
Wesselényi u.<br />
Markusovszky tér<br />
Huba u.<br />
Hunyadi tér<br />
Akácfa u.<br />
Csengery u.<br />
Klauzál u.<br />
Nyár u.<br />
Bródy Sándor u.<br />
Szentkirályi u.<br />
Múzeum u.<br />
Reviczky u.<br />
Baross u.<br />
Köztelek u.<br />
Kinizsi u.<br />
Bakáts u.<br />
Közraktá<br />
Biblia u.<br />
Botond u.<br />
Dévai u.<br />
Szinyei Merse u.<br />
Üllői út<br />
Vas u<br />
Szentkirályi u.<br />
Szentkirályi u.<br />
Köztelek u.<br />
Székely Bertalan u.<br />
Kertész u.<br />
Knézich u.<br />
Lőportár u.<br />
Szabolcs Köz<br />
Vörösmarty u.<br />
Stáhly u<br />
Gyulai Pál u.<br />
Róz<br />
Bakáts tér<br />
Dózsa György út<br />
Andrássy út<br />
Király u.<br />
Szív u.<br />
Erzsébet körút<br />
Horánszky u.<br />
Mária utca<br />
Hőgyes Endre u.<br />
Tüzér u.<br />
Bajza u.<br />
Izabella u.<br />
Márkus Emília u.<br />
Kőfaragó u.<br />
Krúdy Gyula u.<br />
Kmety György u.<br />
Dob u.<br />
Hársfa u.<br />
Mária u.<br />
Ferenc körút<br />
Szabolcs u.<br />
Szegfű u.<br />
Rózsa u.<br />
Dohány u.<br />
Pál u.<br />
Munkácsy Mihály u.<br />
Somogyi Béla u.<br />
Rökk Szilárd u.<br />
Tompa u.<br />
Németh László u.<br />
Békési u.<br />
Csepreghy u.<br />
Angyal u.<br />
ús utca<br />
Kodály körönd<br />
Rákóczi út<br />
Blaha Lujza tér<br />
Üllői út<br />
Almássy tér<br />
Barcsay utca<br />
Jósika utca<br />
Osvát u.<br />
Liliom u.<br />
Rippl-Rónai József u. Rippl-Rónai József u.<br />
Rejtő Jenő u.<br />
Wesselényi u.<br />
Tivadar u.<br />
Csokonai Vitéz Mihály u.<br />
Tompa u.<br />
Szövetség u.<br />
Hársfa u.<br />
Lendvay utca<br />
Fer<br />
Benczúr u.<br />
Alsó erdősor u.<br />
Bezerédi u.<br />
Scheiber Sándor u. Bérkocsis u<br />
József körút<br />
Csángó u.<br />
Felső erdősor<br />
Kölcsey u<br />
Kis Salétrom u.Salétrom u.<br />
József körút<br />
Szabolcs u.<br />
Bacsó Béla utca<br />
József u.<br />
Rákóczi tér<br />
Harminckettesek tere<br />
Kisfaludy u.<br />
Aba u.<br />
Népszínház u<br />
Kisfaludy u.<br />
Dózsa György út<br />
Szondi utca<br />
Bajza u.<br />
Lövölde tér<br />
Páva u.<br />
Vásár u<br />
Rigó u.<br />
Barát u.<br />
Német u.<br />
Vajdahunyad u.<br />
Hun u.<br />
Rottenbiller u.<br />
Víg u<br />
Német u.<br />
Alsó erdősor u.<br />
Kis Stáció u.<br />
Práter u.<br />
Vajdahunyad u.<br />
Munkácsy Mihály u.<br />
Városligeti fasor<br />
Berzenczey u.<br />
Wesselényi u.<br />
Kiss József u. Kiss József u.<br />
Kossuth Lajos u. Rákóczi út Rákóczi út<br />
CENTRAL MARKET<br />
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8 9<br />
GREAT SYNAGOGUE<br />
Rákóczi út<br />
NATIONAL MUSEUM<br />
MUSEUM OF APPLIED ARTS<br />
Tolnai Lajos u.<br />
Nap u.<br />
Bokréta u.<br />
Délibáb u.<br />
Hutyra Ferenc u.<br />
Luther u.<br />
Rózsák tere<br />
József utca<br />
Horváth Mihály tér<br />
Futó u.<br />
Futó u.<br />
Hun u.<br />
Dózsa György út<br />
Szabolcs u.<br />
Rippl-Rónai József u.<br />
Bajza u.<br />
Damjanich u.<br />
Péterfy Sándor u.<br />
Alsó erdősor u.<br />
Fecske utca<br />
Őr u.<br />
Hock János u.<br />
Hun u.<br />
Hősök tere<br />
Benczúr köz<br />
Rottenbiller u.<br />
Dohány u.<br />
Huszár u. Huszár utca<br />
Munkás u.<br />
Szilágyi u.<br />
Auróra u.<br />
Déri Miksa u.<br />
Tavaszmező u.<br />
Nagytemplom u.<br />
Remíz sétány<br />
Lovassy László u.<br />
Gundel Károly út<br />
Állatkerti körút<br />
HEROES' SQUARE<br />
Városligeti fasor<br />
Kenyérmező u.<br />
Leonardo da Vinci u.<br />
Tűzoltó u.<br />
Vágány u.<br />
Dózsa György út<br />
Dembinszky u.<br />
Bethlen Gábor tér<br />
Munkás u.<br />
Nagy Fuvaros u.<br />
Leonardo da Vinci u.<br />
Mohács utca<br />
Benczúr u.<br />
Rottenbiller u.<br />
Szűz utca<br />
II. János Pál pápa tér<br />
Kis Fuvaros u.<br />
ay János u.<br />
Leonardo da Vinci köz<br />
Tömő u.<br />
Jász u.<br />
Olof Palme sétány<br />
Berzsenyi u.<br />
Mátyás tér<br />
Damjanich u.<br />
Peterdy u.<br />
Koszorú u.<br />
Nefelejcs u.<br />
Légszesz u.<br />
Homok u.<br />
Garay u.<br />
István u.<br />
Baross tér<br />
Muzsikus cigányok parkja<br />
Szigony u.<br />
Murányi u.<br />
Marek József u.<br />
Péterfy Sándor u.<br />
Üllői út<br />
Hernád u.<br />
Mosonyi u.<br />
l pápa tér Dologház u.<br />
Vasas köz<br />
Práter u.<br />
Bókay János u.<br />
Rottenbiller utca<br />
Rákóczi út<br />
Vay Ádám u.<br />
Népszínház u.<br />
Üllői út<br />
Vágány u.<br />
BUDAPEST ZOO<br />
Fiumei út<br />
Gázláng u.<br />
Kun utca<br />
Bauer Sándor u.<br />
Molnár Ferenc tér<br />
Lósy Imre utca<br />
Jázmin u.<br />
Balassa u.<br />
Apáthy István u.<br />
Alföldi u.<br />
Festetics György u.<br />
Szerdahelyi u.<br />
Szigetvári u.<br />
Magdolna u.<br />
Lippa u.<br />
Varannó u.<br />
Fiumei út<br />
Dankó u.<br />
Práter u.<br />
Garay u.<br />
Mosonyi u.<br />
Füvészkert u.<br />
Mór u.<br />
Róbert Károly körút<br />
Konrad Adenauer út<br />
Kós Károly sétány<br />
Mór u.<br />
u.<br />
VAJDAHUNYAD CASTLE<br />
Washington György sétány<br />
Szent László út<br />
Paál László út<br />
Teleki László tér<br />
Kisgömb u.<br />
Kis Baross tér<br />
Cserhát u. Garay tér<br />
Kálvária tér<br />
u.<br />
Állatkerti körút<br />
Alpár u.<br />
Murányi u.<br />
Verseny u.<br />
Fiumei út<br />
Teleki László tér<br />
Karácsony Sándor u.<br />
Tömő u.<br />
Hajcsár út<br />
Dvořák sétány<br />
Thököly út<br />
Illés u.<br />
Palóc<br />
Dévényi u.<br />
Sajó u.<br />
Kerepesi út<br />
Lóvásár u.<br />
Baross u.<br />
Dobozi u.<br />
Lujza u.<br />
Korányi Sándor utca<br />
Kacsóh Pongrác út<br />
Ajtósi Dürer sor<br />
Borostyán u.<br />
Szinva u.<br />
Cserhát u.<br />
Népszínház u.<br />
Magdolna u.<br />
Kálvária u.<br />
s u.<br />
Olof Palme sétány<br />
Szinva u.<br />
Thököly út<br />
Dugonics u.<br />
Mexikói út<br />
Bethesda u.<br />
Konrad Adenauer út<br />
Százház u.<br />
Ocskay László út<br />
Jobbágy u.<br />
Dobozi u.<br />
Zichy Mihály út<br />
Cházár András u.<br />
Istvánmezei út<br />
Verseny u.<br />
Salgótarjáni út<br />
Kacsóh Pongrác út<br />
Abonyi u.<br />
Szeszgyár u.<br />
Pálma u.<br />
Ferencsik János út<br />
Lev Tolsztoj sétány<br />
Csobánc u.<br />
Diószegi Sámuel u.<br />
Hermina út<br />
Cházár András u.<br />
Istvánmezei út<br />
Verseny utca<br />
Visi Imre u.<br />
Zichy Géza u.<br />
Cházár András u.<br />
Sárkány u.<br />
Teleki Blanka u.<br />
Horvát Boldizsár u.<br />
Ciklámen u.<br />
Erzsébet királyné útja<br />
6 7 8 9<br />
Thököly út<br />
Ajtósi Dürer sor<br />
Kőbány út<br />
Kőris u.<br />
Asztana út<br />
Mimóza u.<br />
Izsó u.<br />
Jávor u.<br />
Dorozsmai köz<br />
Kassai tér<br />
Columbus utca Columbus u.<br />
Salgótarjáni utca<br />
Orczy út<br />
Rozgonyi u.<br />
Szőnyi út<br />
Dózsa György út<br />
Orczy tér<br />
Kacsóh Pongrác út<br />
Laky Adolf u.<br />
Edison köz<br />
Edison utca<br />
Dorozsmai u.<br />
Erzsébet királyné útja<br />
Mexikói út<br />
Ajtósi Dürer sor<br />
Ida u.<br />
Stefánia köz<br />
Laky köz<br />
Laky Adolf utca<br />
Francia út<br />
Ida utca<br />
Delej u.<br />
Hajcsár u.<br />
Uzsoki u.<br />
Ilka utca<br />
Szabó József köz<br />
Delej u.<br />
Szikszó park<br />
Bíró Lajos u.<br />
Lapály u.<br />
Laky Adolf u<br />
Báthory István park<br />
Golgota tér Golgota út<br />
Delej u.<br />
grác út<br />
Thököly útThököly út<br />
Kacsóh Pon<br />
Semsey Andor u.<br />
MAPS<br />
Róna u.<br />
Amerikai út<br />
Gizella út<br />
Uzsoki u.<br />
Cserei u.<br />
Asztalos Sándor út<br />
Korong u.<br />
www.wheretraveler.com 39<br />
Reguly Antal u.<br />
6<br />
Bláthy Ottó u.<br />
Szikszó u.<br />
Dorozsmai u.<br />
Stefánia út<br />
Tanya utca<br />
Erzsébet királyné útja<br />
BALTAZÁR GRILL<br />
Buda I, Országház u. 31.<br />
T: (+36 1) 300 7050<br />
www.<br />
baltazarbudapest.com<br />
Thököly út<br />
7<br />
Thököly út<br />
JAMIE'S ITALIAN<br />
BUDA CASTLE<br />
Buda I,<br />
Szentháromság u. 9-11<br />
T: (+36 1) 800 9212<br />
www. jamiesitalian.hu<br />
8<br />
Kőbányai út<br />
Egressy út<br />
JAMIE'S PIZZERIA<br />
GOZSDU<br />
Pest VII, Király utca 13.,<br />
Gozsdu udvar<br />
Kerepesi út<br />
www.jamiespizzeria.hu<br />
9<br />
SPÍLER ORIGINAL<br />
Pest VII, Király utca 13.,<br />
Gozsdu udvar<br />
T: (+36 1) 878 1320<br />
www.spilerbp.hu<br />
]<br />
TRÓFEA GRILL<br />
RESTAURANTS<br />
Stubnyai u.<br />
Erzsébet királyné útja<br />
Buda II, Margit krt. 2.,<br />
Pest VI, Király u. 30-32.,<br />
Pest XIII, Visegrádi u. 50/A.<br />
www.trofea.hu<br />
utca<br />
Róna<br />
Uzsoki u.<br />
Columbus u.<br />
Gyarmat u.<br />
Laky Adolf u.<br />
Francia út<br />
Vajda Péter u.<br />
Ráskai Lea u.<br />
Titel u.<br />
Szabó Lőrinc u.<br />
Cserei köz<br />
Gizella út<br />
Rá<br />
Semsey Andor u.<br />
Szatmár u.<br />
Dózsa György út<br />
Erzsébet királyné útja Erzsé<br />
Nagy Lajos király útja<br />
Hungária körút<br />
Limanova tér<br />
Limanova köz<br />
Limanova köz<br />
Korong u<br />
Törökőr u.<br />
Mexikói út<br />
Eleonóra u.<br />
Ifjúság útja<br />
Kerepesi út<br />
Strázsa u.<br />
Strázsa köz<br />
Törökbecse u.<br />
Népliget<br />
Czobor u.<br />
Bácskai u.<br />
Hungária köz<br />
Csanta<br />
Ta<br />
Szobránc<br />
Jurisics Miklós<br />
Szob<br />
Stróbl Alajo<br />
Len
<strong>WHERE</strong> IT’S AT I BUDAPEST<br />
GREAT SYNAGOGUE<br />
Europe’s largest temple (it can fit some 3,000<br />
people) the Dohány Street Synagogue was<br />
built in the 1850s, showcasing a fusion of<br />
Moorish and Byzantine styles through such<br />
features as its onion-shaped domes. Inside,<br />
this Neolog house of worship is graced with<br />
such elements as a stained-glass rose window<br />
and an organ played by Franz Liszt. Holocaust<br />
memorials in the courtyard and the Hungarian<br />
Jewish Museum in another wing ensure that all<br />
visits are poignant ones. Dohány u. 2<br />
CHAIN BRIDGE<br />
It took nearly a decade for English architect<br />
William Tierney Clark and Scottish engineer<br />
Adam Clark to finish building the Széchenyi<br />
Chain Bridge in 1849, the first permanent link<br />
between Buda and Pest over the Danube. One<br />
of the world’s longest bridges at the time was<br />
rebuilt post-World War II today it remains a<br />
Budapest icon. Take a gander at night when<br />
it’s illuminated and the two towers reveal a<br />
particularly fairy-tale allure.<br />
PARLIAMENT<br />
There are almost 700 rooms inside the<br />
Parliament, home to Hungary’s National<br />
Assembly. Revel in this neo-gothic beauty<br />
completed in 1902 for the Austro-Hungarian<br />
Empire by architect Imre Steindl (the most<br />
expensive building ever constructed in<br />
Hungary) and take a tour, where you’ll see such<br />
highlights as St. Stephen’s crown. Frescoes,<br />
stained-glass windows, granite columns, and<br />
gold leaf galore make this one of Budapest’s<br />
most splendid landmarks. Kossuth Lajos tér 1-3<br />
FUNICULAR<br />
You could climb your way up to Buda Castle,<br />
but the more scenic (and tamer) alternative<br />
is to ride the Budapest Castle Hill Funicular<br />
(Budavári Sikló) at Clark Ádám Square.<br />
Launched in 1870, this historic funicular railway<br />
was only the second of its kind in Europe, after<br />
Lyon. It shuttered in the wake of the Second<br />
World War, but the Funicular re-opened in 1986<br />
with copper-adorned brown cars that have a<br />
whimsical, Old World feel to them.<br />
VIGADÓ CONCERT HALL<br />
Designed by Frigyes Feszl and opened in 1864,<br />
the Vigadó was a striking replacement for the<br />
neoclassical Redoute, which was destroyed<br />
by invading Austrian troops 25 years prior.<br />
The concert hall, located along the bank of<br />
the Danube, is adorned with gorgeous pillar<br />
statues and frescoes. Drop by for a glance at<br />
the monument’s architecture, or stick around<br />
for an English-led guided tour, followed by one<br />
of the numerous performances that span the<br />
National Youth Choir of Hungary and a jazzy<br />
swing concert. Vigadó tér 2<br />
ZWACK UNICUM MUSEUM<br />
Luckily, you likely won’t leave Budapest without<br />
having sipped your fair share of Unicum, the<br />
country’s beloved national liqueur. No matter<br />
the type of bar, the round, cross-emblazoned<br />
bottle’s presence is ubiquitous. Spun from<br />
a top-secret mix of herbs and botanicals,<br />
Unicum is a complex and heady digestif.<br />
At this small museum in District IX, learn<br />
about its late 18th-century royal roots<br />
and hear riveting war-era tales. Tours<br />
also include a wander through the<br />
distillery, best capped off with stops<br />
in the tasting room and shop.<br />
Dandár u. 1<br />
40 <strong>WHERE</strong> LONDON BUDAPEST I JANUARY I SEPTEMBER 2013<strong>2019</strong>
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