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GUIDE TO BUDAPEST<br />

®<br />

SEPTEMBER <strong>2019</strong><br />

RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE<br />

SIP<br />

DISCOVER HUNGARIAN<br />

WINE AT A FESTIVAL IN A<br />

STORYBOOK SETTING<br />

SEE<br />

RECIRQUEL’S RE-IMAGINING<br />

OF THE CIRCUS IS DARING<br />

AND ELEGANT<br />

WWW.<strong>WHERE</strong>TRAVELER.COM<br />

RELAX<br />

SERENITY IS FOUND AT<br />

AN URBAN GARDEN SPA


High quality<br />

street food<br />

Hungarian<br />

& Jewish classics<br />

Local beers & wines<br />

Electronic grooves<br />

on weekends<br />

spilerbp.hu<br />

Address: Király utca 13. (Gozsdu Udvar), Instagram: spiler.co<br />

S H A N G H A<br />

I<br />

Snacks & bites<br />

to share<br />

Amazing cocktail<br />

selection<br />

Asia inspired interior<br />

Late night snacks<br />

from 11 pm<br />

spilershanghai.hu


20<br />

8<br />

26<br />

SEPTEMBER<br />

CONTENTS<br />

FEATURES<br />

4 <strong>WHERE</strong> NOW<br />

Start hatching some plans with our<br />

selection of performances, exhibitions,<br />

and other special events taking place<br />

throughout the capital this month.<br />

8 WINE DOWN<br />

Set against the backdrop of Buda<br />

Castle, you won't want to leave<br />

Budapest's premier annual wine festival.<br />

Can't attend the event? We tell you<br />

which Hungarian wines you should<br />

bring back home.<br />

11 FRESH START<br />

Celebrate the season’s abundant<br />

produce at two of Buda’s best markets:<br />

MOM Biopiac and the Czakó Kert Piacz<br />

are loved by locals.<br />

LISTINGS<br />

12 ENTERTAINMENT<br />

Recirquel blends classic and contemporary<br />

dance with the wonders of the circus. See<br />

the newest production at Müpa Budapest.<br />

16 MUSEUMS & GALLERIES<br />

In a city with a rich photography legacy,<br />

the visionary TOBE Gallery celebrates the<br />

contemporary genre by uniting Hungarian<br />

and Latin American artists.<br />

20 SHOPS AND SERVICES<br />

Hungarian-American entrepreneur Zachary<br />

Tipton first started making his distinctive<br />

vinyl eyeglasses more than 20 years ago in<br />

Seattle. Visit Tipton Eyeworks, peruse the<br />

vast selection, and find out why celebrities<br />

love his frames.<br />

24 WELLNESS<br />

There are plenty of feel-good escapes in<br />

Budapest, but none are quite like the Secret<br />

Garden Day Spa.<br />

26 DINING<br />

Plantmilkyway is a delicious little bakery that<br />

bolsters Budapest’s burgeoning vegan food scene.<br />

36 ESSENTIALS<br />

Useful information including taxis, bike rentals,<br />

public transport tickets, and embassies..<br />

38 MAP<br />

A map of Budapest that helps you navigate<br />

the city and find your way to its most<br />

important sites and venues.<br />

See more of Budapest at<br />

www.wheretraveler.com/budapest<br />

www.wheretraveler.com 1


where cover_<strong>september</strong>_<strong>2019</strong>.indd 3 <strong>2019</strong>. 08. 23. 19:35<br />

®<br />

where®<br />

MAGAZINE<br />

IN OVER 80 CITIES: INFLUENCING AND INSPIRING VISITORS SINCE 1936<br />

GG | MVP<br />

PUBLISHER<br />

Emese Juhász<br />

CREATIVE<br />

EDITOR IN CHIEF<br />

Alia Akkam<br />

ART DIRECTOR<br />

Balázs Milléte<br />

ADVERTISING<br />

SALES & OFFICE MANAGER<br />

Viktória Novák<br />

SALES REPRESENTATIVE<br />

Anikó Szabó<br />

Marianna Lakatos<br />

EXECUTIVE<br />

PRESIDENT<br />

Donna W. Kessler<br />

VICE PRESIDENT<br />

Angela E. Allen<br />

MANAGING DIRECTOR EUROPE<br />

Chris Manning<br />

CREATIVE<br />

CHIEF CREATIVE OFFICER<br />

Haines Wilkerson<br />

DESIGN DIRECTOR<br />

Jane Frey<br />

CREATIVE COORDINATOR<br />

Beverly Mandelblatt<br />

CHIEF TRAVEL EDITOR<br />

Geoff Kohl<br />

CHAIRMAN<br />

William S. Morris III<br />

PRESIDENT & CEO<br />

William S. Morris IV<br />

ON THE COVER<br />

GUIDE TO BUDAPEST<br />

SEPTEMBER <strong>2019</strong><br />

RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE<br />

OUR<br />

SECRET<br />

CHOICES<br />

WWW.<strong>WHERE</strong>TRAVELER.COM<br />

SIP<br />

DISCOVER HUNGARIAN<br />

WINE AT A FESTIVAL IN A<br />

STORYBOOK SETTING<br />

SEE<br />

RECIRQUEL’S RE-IMAGINING<br />

OF THE CIRCUS IS DARING<br />

AND ELEGANT<br />

RELAX<br />

SERENITY IS FOUND AT<br />

AN URBAN GARDEN SPA<br />

The Buda Castle<br />

complex: one of the<br />

world’s most beautiful<br />

settings for a wine<br />

festival.<br />

BUDAPEST AFFILIATE<br />

GASTRO GUIDE KFT.<br />

Bem József u 9. fsz., 1027 Budapest<br />

Phone/Fax: (+36 1) 781 9483<br />

E-mail: hello@grandbudapest.com<br />

ISSN 1217-5714<br />

Where® Magazine is available at: Hotel rooms (5-4-3 star), embassies, office buildings, Tourinform offices, tourist and business centers, airports. Plan ahead for your next visit to Budapest – subscribe to<br />

Where®: 12 issues 4,800 Ft for Hungary only; overseas subcriptions $50. Where® is published by Gastro Guide Kft., Budapest. Printed by Kvadrát Print, www.kvadratprint.hu. Where® Magazine and the where®<br />

logo are registered trademarks of Morris Visitor Publications. Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any<br />

consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part strictly prohibited.<br />

In the interest of environmental preservation, every<br />

reader of Where Budapest is encouraged to share,<br />

reuse, and recycle each copy of our magazine.<br />

MAGYAR SZÁLLODAPORTÁSOK<br />

„ARANYKULCS” EGYESÜLETE MEMBERS OF<br />

THE U.I.C.H. LES CLEFS D‘OR ORGANISATION<br />

wheretraveler.com<br />

2 <strong>WHERE</strong> LONDON BUDAPEST I JANUARY I SEPTEMBER 2013<strong>2019</strong>


WELCOME<br />

ALIA AKKAM<br />

Editor-in-chief of Where Budapest<br />

When I was a kid, September always felt more like the beginning of the year than January,<br />

with all those spiral notebooks filled with blank, promising pages that I couldn’t wait to<br />

crack open. To me, September represented a thrilling plunge into the unknown. This issue,<br />

I hope, will inspire you to see some of the equally exciting possibilities that await you in<br />

Budapest this month.<br />

Consider the annual Budapest Wine Festival, a lively, one-of-a-kind way to discover some<br />

of the producers shaping the local oenophile scene. If you prefer beer, we’ll also<br />

introduce you to some of the top Hungarian craft brands in our nightlife insert.<br />

Budapest’s robust art and culture programming for the fall kicks off this month, too, and<br />

we encourage you to see an eye-popping modern circus performance, or wander through<br />

one of the city’s pioneering contemporary photography galleries.<br />

Over the last few years a slew of dynamic vegetarian and vegan eateries have popped up<br />

here. There is one particularly delightful bakery we are smitten with, where the<br />

sophisticated creations are made without eggs, soy, or dairy products. Go visit.<br />

Since the month signifies change, including a reluctant goodbye to summer, it’s also a<br />

great time to get some pampering in, and we know just the leafy retreat that will leave<br />

you rejuvenated.<br />

Finally, it wouldn’t be September without a little spirited “back-to-school” shopping. A pair of<br />

handmade glasses at Tipton Eyeworks will leave you just as giddy as your first day of school.<br />

www.wheretraveler.com 3


®<br />

6-8<br />

SEPT<br />

1 ST STEPS<br />

At the Erkel Theater, a lovely stand-in for the Hungarian State<br />

Opera while it remains closed for renovations, take in 1 st Steps, a<br />

three-act ballet. Set to Maurice Ravel’s Bolero as well as music by Steve Reich<br />

and Erik Satie among others, the Hungarian National Ballet explores eight<br />

different poignant perspectives on the female experience. In addition to Trois<br />

Gnossiennes, Falling Angels, and Walking Mad, this production features the new<br />

Episode 31. opera.hu<br />

THIS MONTH, LOSE YOURSELF IN A<br />

COMPELLING CULTURAL PERFORMANCE,<br />

OR SIMPLY TAKE AN AFTERNOON<br />

DESSERT BREAK.<br />

13-15<br />

SEPT<br />

ÉDES NAPOK<br />

Édes Napok, unfurling on Szent István tér, is a dessert lover’s<br />

wonderland. Over the course of a weekend, more than 100<br />

confectioners and merchants present their hand-made cakes and chocolates<br />

to the public. Here you can try the Jewish specialty flódni, stacked with apple,<br />

walnut, poppy seed, and plum jam; a classic jam-stuffed isler cookie enrobed<br />

in chocolate; or a Hungarian-made dark Dr. Choc bar, infused with calming<br />

lavender and lemongrass. edesnapok.hu<br />

24<br />

SEPT<br />

HELMET<br />

Thirty years ago, the alternative metal band<br />

Helmet, known for experimental albums<br />

like Betty and Meantime, was formed in New York. To<br />

commemorate the milestone, Helmet, led by original<br />

frontman Page Hamilton, is embarking on a 30-city tour<br />

through Europe this fall (followed by another in the<br />

States). Come see them during their Budapest stop at the<br />

sprawling Dürer Kert. 7 p.m., durerkert.com<br />

PHOTO: CENTER TOP — PÉTER RÁKOSSY, BOTTOM RIGHT — JACOB BLICKENSTAFF<br />

4 <strong>WHERE</strong> LONDON BUDAPEST I JANUARY I SEPTEMBER 2013<strong>2019</strong>


<strong>WHERE</strong> NOW | CALENDAR<br />

13<br />

SEPT<br />

BOSCH + BOSCH GROUP AND THE VOJVODINA<br />

NEO-AVANTGARDE MOVEMENT<br />

Most of the young members of the art collective Bosch + Bosch Group, founded<br />

in the former Yugoslavia in 1969, were of Hungarian descent and influenced by Hungarian<br />

activism during the interwar period. Little is known of Bosch + Bosch Group outside the<br />

region, but the Ludwig Museum is now shining a light on their bold contributions to<br />

modern Yugoslav art, including those of Katalin Ladik and Bálint Szombathy, who later found<br />

international success. Running through November 17, the exhibition also includes the works<br />

of early 1970s neo-avant garde artists based in Novi Sad. ludwigmuseum.hu<br />

PHOTO: TOP RIGHT — LÁSZLÓ SZALMA<br />

22<br />

SEPT<br />

ILARIA GRAZIANO &<br />

FRANCESCO FORNI<br />

This year’s Bridging Europe<br />

series at Müpa Budapest focuses on Italy,<br />

showcasing talents like Mario Biondi,<br />

as well as screenings of favorite films<br />

including Federico Fellini’s 1960 La<br />

Dolce Vita. One musical act not to<br />

miss is Ilaria Graziano and Francesco<br />

Foriani. Graziano, who sang with<br />

Marianne Faithfull in The Girl from<br />

Nagasaki, and Foriani, a composer,<br />

are magical together, deftly<br />

bouncing from Neapolitan songs<br />

to French chansons, and surprising<br />

audiences by incorporating folk,<br />

blues, and country sounds, or even<br />

strumming a ukulele. During this free<br />

performance in the atrium, listen<br />

for songs from the duo’s newest<br />

album, Twinkle Twinkle. 7:30<br />

p.m., mupa.hu<br />

www.wheretraveler.com 5


<strong>WHERE</strong> NOW | CALENDAR<br />

20-21<br />

SEPT<br />

MAGNÉTIC<br />

Budapest’s District IX is home to Trafó, a hub for contemporary<br />

theater performances, including CIE Jérôme Thomas’s Magnetic. This<br />

piece from the innovative French company conjures a kinetic, hypnotic universe<br />

populated by a quartet of jugglers that play with wires, bullets, light, and speed.<br />

Wilfried Wendling’s trippy music amplifies the dark room’s surreal vibes. trafo.hu<br />

24<br />

SEPT<br />

HUNGARIAN<br />

RADIO SYMPHONY<br />

ORCHESTRA<br />

Debuting in 1943, the Hungarian Radio<br />

Symphony Orchestra was originally<br />

founded as a chamber orchestra in 1936.<br />

British radio stations, impressed by their<br />

sound, soon began broadcasting the<br />

orchestra’s programs. Today, it remains one<br />

of the country’s most renowned music<br />

organizations, and you have a chance to see<br />

them perform at the Franz Liszt Academy<br />

of Music’s gilded Grand Hall. Tamás Vásáry<br />

will conduct an all-Beethoven program that<br />

includes two piano concertos, featuring<br />

solos by the 24-year-old sensation Fülöp<br />

Ránki. 7:30, zeneakademia.hu<br />

8<br />

SEPT<br />

34 TH WIZZ AIR<br />

BUDAPEST HALF<br />

MARATHON<br />

It’s time, once again, for Central<br />

Europe’s largest half marathon.<br />

Last year, nearly 2,000<br />

participants came from<br />

abroad to run this 21 km<br />

race. Even if you’re not<br />

participating, it’s still<br />

exhilarating to watch the<br />

runners on their highpowered<br />

“tour” through<br />

Budapest. The course takes<br />

them past the city’s most<br />

well-known sites, including<br />

the banks of the Danube<br />

and the Parliament building. If<br />

you’re running, one of Budapest’s<br />

distinctive thermal baths is where you’ll<br />

want to head next to soothe those aching<br />

muscles. halfmarathon.runinbudapest.com<br />

6 <strong>WHERE</strong> LONDON BUDAPEST I JANUARY I SEPTEMBER 2013<strong>2019</strong><br />

1-9<br />

SEPT<br />

JEWISH CULTURAL<br />

FESTIVAL<br />

A celebration of the arts and<br />

tradition, Budapest’s annual Jewish Cultural<br />

Festival brings together a lively mix of<br />

musicians, many who will perform at the<br />

must-see Dohány Street Synagogue. Spend<br />

one night listening to the Budapest Klezmer<br />

Band, another the Theramin-playing Illényi<br />

Katica. There’s also Yiddish swing from the<br />

Malek Andi Soulistic project to look forward<br />

to at the Hegedűs Gyula Street Synagogue<br />

as well as the waltz-meets-klezmermeets-tango<br />

sounds of violinist Orsolya<br />

Korcsolán at the Budapest Music Center.<br />

zsidokulturalisfesztival.hu<br />

PHOTO: TOP LEFT — CHRISTOPHE RAYNAUD DE LAGE, BOTTOM LEFT — COURTESY OF RUNINBUDAPEST.COM, TOP RIGHT — ATTILA VÖRÖS


CASTLE HILL<br />

Meandering through Castle Hill’s picturesque cobblestoned streets, filled with cozy restaurants, cafés (be sure to take a cake and coffee break<br />

at Ruszwurm, one of the city’s oldest confectioneries) shops, and galleries is an excursion that many visitors to Budapest cherish. It’s not just<br />

the quaint medieval setting that appeals, however, but the history that permeates this UNESCO World Heritage site. Ride the funicular up<br />

to Buda’s beautiful Castle Hill, a limestone plateau above the Danube, to the commanding Baroque-era palace. Originally completed in the<br />

13th century, it was re-built by the Hapsburgs and welcomes patrons through the ornate Corvinus Gate. At this cultural complex you’ll find<br />

the Hungarian National Gallery, featuring the work of 18th- and 19th-century Hungarian artists, as well as the Budapest History Museum,<br />

which does a fine job of delving into the city’s complex past. Northwest of this is Hospital in the Rock Nuclear Bunker Museum. Once an<br />

air-raid emergency hospital during World War II, it now offers a peek into a secret subterranean world spawned by the extensive network of<br />

caverns running below the castle. Just a few minutes away is the elegant and slender Matthias Church. Tracing its roots to the 11th century,<br />

it beckons with a roof of colorful tiles and awes with frescoes and stained glass inside. Fisherman’s Bastion, a sprawling neo-gothic and<br />

neo-romanesque terrace that flaunts storybook turrets, is beside the church. Before descending into the city, join the<br />

crowds here to take in one of Budapest’s most hypnotic panoramas.<br />

TOP<br />

PICK<br />

www.wheretraveler.com 7


Wine Down<br />

Visiting Buda’s Castle District is essential no matter the season, but our personal favorite time to while away a few<br />

hours here is during the Budapest Wine Festival. Against a backdrop of palatial buildings, we sip Hungarian wine<br />

after Hungarian wine and the feeling is one of sheer magic especially if we’re holed up at one of the coveted tables<br />

on the Budapest Terrace soaking up the ambience. The 28th edition takes place September 5-8. If you’re remotely<br />

curious about Hungary’s long, rich wine legacy, you’ll definitely want to snag a ticket.<br />

8 <strong>WHERE</strong> LONDON BUDAPEST I JANUARY I SEPTEMBER 2013<strong>2019</strong>


Of course the best way to learn about Hungary’s 22<br />

different wine regions is by visiting them firsthand.<br />

If you have the time for such an excursion on your<br />

Budapest trip, we highly recommend that you<br />

orchestrate a tour through as many cozy, rustic cellars<br />

as possible. If not, consider the Budapest Wine Festival<br />

a powerful starting point for discovering Hungarian<br />

wine and learning the names of those hard-topronounce<br />

indigenous varietals in the process.<br />

For the “greatest hits,” we suggest grabbing VinAgora<br />

Taste of Hungary’s helpful booklet with a map that<br />

leads you to some of Hungary’s most emblematic<br />

wines all of which won at the VinAgora International<br />

Wine Competition including Tokaj Aszú, Bull’s Blood<br />

of Eger (Egri Bikavér), Cabernet Franc from Villány,<br />

Furmint, and Welschriesling (Olaszrizling), with a<br />

special emphasis this year on wines from the Eger<br />

region.To ensure that you’re properly fortified while<br />

tasting all these wines, there will be plenty of food<br />

vendors on hand as well. We suggest the dishes from<br />

Ami Burger and Gléda Vendéglő, or if a simple slice of<br />

pizza will do, the satisfying one from Pizza Me.<br />

Complementing the food and drink is live entertainment<br />

across three different stages. Along with plenty of folk<br />

music and dancing, look out for performances from<br />

artists like Dánielfy Gergely és a Utazók, Káel Norbert<br />

and Jazzical Trio, and the Gáspár Károly Trio.<br />

If your schedule doesn’t allow for a leisurely evening<br />

at the festival, then we encourage you to visit a<br />

local wine shop (Bortársaság has a comprehensive<br />

selection) and stock up on a few bottles to bring back<br />

home. Here are seven wineries that are participating<br />

in the Budapest Wine Festival you should consider.<br />

www.wheretraveler.com 9


BOCK<br />

The Bock family has been making wine in the Villány region since<br />

the mid-19th century, and with a rustic hotel, restaurant, and cellar<br />

to explore on the grounds, it’s a true tourist destination. If a trip<br />

out here isn’t in the cards, then seek out bottles of winemaker<br />

József Bock’s dry, high-acidity Olaszrizling and spicy, Syrah-<br />

Kékfrankos-Pinot Noir red blend, Bock & Roll, in Budapest. bock.hu<br />

GERE<br />

Winemaking has been part of the Gere family’s history for<br />

seven generations. Now under the leadership of Attila Gere, it<br />

produces wines like a clean, fruity rosé and the premium Kopár,<br />

a blend of Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon.<br />

Visitors often prolong the Villány experience with the seasonal<br />

degustation menu on offer at Mandula restaurant, or a luxe<br />

night at Gere’s Crocus Resort & Wine Spa. gere.hu<br />

KREINBACHER<br />

Chances are that you will become acquainted with Kreinbacher’s<br />

sparkling wines before leaving Budapest; they grace many a<br />

restaurant and bar menu. Based in the Nagy-Somló wine region,<br />

Kreinbacher, founded in 2002, is also known for its beautiful<br />

white wines like Furmint and Hárslevelű. One incentive to go<br />

visit: the centerpiece of the organically cultivated estate is a<br />

modern-industrial tasting room. kreinbacher.hu<br />

KRISTINUS<br />

Everyone loves Lake Balaton in the summer, but the truth is<br />

it’s equally spectacular in the fall. One stop to consider: the<br />

Kristinus Estate, which produces a full line-up of wines, including<br />

Chardonnay, Irsai Olivér, and Furmint, as well as Merlot, Cabernet<br />

Franc, and Pinot Noir. If you’re looking for a place to sleep don’t<br />

overlook the modern, 10-room Vinotel, which also provides bus<br />

tours of the Southern Balaton region. kristinus.hu<br />

MÉSZÁROS<br />

One of Szekszárd’s bigger wineries, family-run Mészáros—if you<br />

go, don’t miss the striking cellar—offers a number of varieties,<br />

including a classic Kadarka and the Ohmerops reserve blend of<br />

Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cabernet Franc. Hotel Merops<br />

comes to the rescue with Old World accommodations, but even<br />

for those who aren’t spending the night, a meal at the swank<br />

restaurant is the perfect wine-tasting break. meszarosborhaz.hu<br />

PANNONHALMI<br />

Benedictine monks founded the monastery of Pannonhalma in<br />

996, and so the wine-making tradition here in western Hungary<br />

stretches back centuries. Visiting the abbey is a perfect day trip,<br />

particularly when it’s followed up with a wine tasting. Try the<br />

Tricollis white and rosé varieties, the Pinot Noir, or the Merlot-<br />

Cabernet Franc blend, Hermina. apatsagipinceszet.hu<br />

SAUSKA<br />

Family-owned Sauska, going strong since Krisztián Sauska<br />

launched it in the late 1990s, has vineyards in both Villány and<br />

Tokaj. It is one of Hungary’s most celebrated wineries, known for<br />

both bright Furmint and daring red blends like the Cuvée 7 with<br />

Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot. If you head<br />

out to Villány, do plan a meal at the winery’s on-site restaurant,<br />

which sources produce from its own garden. sauska.hu<br />

10 <strong>WHERE</strong> LONDON BUDAPEST I JANUARY I SEPTEMBER 2013<strong>2019</strong>


THE GUIDE<br />

TOP<br />

TIPS<br />

FRESH START<br />

Throughout Hungary’s wine regions there are a number of jubilant festivals celebrating the grape harvest this month. It’s<br />

also a great time to feast on the bounty of fresh, pre-autumn vegetables and fruits, and one of the best places to see what’s<br />

in season is at the Bio Piac in Buda’s District XII. Adjacent to the MOM Park shopping center, this organic market (open on Saturday) highlights<br />

local produce, juices, and bakery treats, as well as other made-in-Hungary specialties like jams, and even all-natural cosmetics, that<br />

you can tuck into your suitcase.<br />

Then, head to Czakó Kert & Piacz (the market is open Wednesday through Saturday) about a 15-minute walk away for more straight-from-thegarden<br />

goods and stands selling an intriguing assortment of meats, cheeses, and hot sauces. Once you’re done loading up your tote bag,<br />

savor the bistro’s cozy, rustic atmosphere by ordering a plate of Hungarian-style scrambled eggs spiked with paprika, or rye granola swirled<br />

with yogurt and cinnamon. The menu fittingly weaves in plenty of ingredients directly from its market’s farmers. Csörsz u. 18 and Czakó u. 15<br />

www.wheretraveler.com 11


ENTERTAINMENT<br />

“The circus is the only<br />

fun you can buy that<br />

is good for you.” —<br />

Ernest Hemingway<br />

Budapest’s enchanted relationship with the<br />

circus traces back to 1889 and the debut of<br />

the Capital Circus of Budapest. Since 1971<br />

the historic company has found a home in City<br />

Park, where it continues to entertain as the city’s<br />

premier big top and hosts the Budapest Circus<br />

Festival every other year.<br />

Such a classical spectacle is not what Bence Vági<br />

desired when he founded Recirquel, his own<br />

version of a modern, electric circus in 2012. A<br />

director and choreographer, Vági first introduced<br />

Recirquel to Budapest audiences in the spring of<br />

2013 with the premiere of Night Circus and it was<br />

an immediate hit, attracting the support of the<br />

prestigious performing arts venue, Müpa Budapest.<br />

“I was originally trained as a dancer. While the circus<br />

has always been one of those ever present, but<br />

never consciously noted influences, with the<br />

creation of Recirquel this influence has emerged to<br />

the surface to become one with my contemporary<br />

and classical dance training,” says Vági<br />

Other enrapturing Recirquel productions followed,<br />

like The Naked Clown and Paris Nuit, the<br />

Brassaï-inspired deep dive into the seamy 1930s<br />

that resonates with cabaret lovers. Now, Recirquel<br />

returns to Müpa with My Land on September 13<br />

and 14 and Non Solus on September 15. My Land,<br />

featuring acrobats, made waves at the Edinburgh<br />

Festival Fringe last year, and expands on a style<br />

that Vági first started developing in 2015’s Non<br />

Solus, when he brought together the talents of a<br />

dancer and circus artist.<br />

“There is always something different and special I<br />

admire about the shows. In the case of My Land<br />

and Non Solus, though, there is something<br />

common: they represent the process leading to a<br />

new genre in performing arts, 'cirque danse,’”<br />

explains Vági. “It is the combination of circus arts<br />

and dance, classical and contemporary, to create a<br />

novel form of theater, a new way of expression for<br />

the storytellers of art. What I presently love the<br />

most about these two particular Recirquel pieces is<br />

the complexity of the performance the acrobats I<br />

work with are capable of, and I'm looking for the<br />

ways to develop it even further.”<br />

Deep into planning his next show, Vági is<br />

continuing to explore and refine cirque danse<br />

while never losing sight of the heritage that shapes<br />

his productions: “It has always been important for<br />

me to show the world the traditions of East<br />

European circus arts, but in a way that can attract<br />

the audience of our present day, that can<br />

communicate with the young generations.”<br />

recirquel.com; mupa.hu<br />

PHOTO: TOP RIGHT – MY LAND, TAMÁS RÉTHEY-PRIKKEL, TOP LEFT – MY LAND, ZSOFIA PALYI<br />

12 <strong>WHERE</strong> BUDAPEST I SEPTEMBER <strong>2019</strong>


ENTERTAINMENT<br />

ENTERTAINMENT<br />

PERFORMANCE VENUES<br />

A38 SHIP Rock the boat nightly at one of Budapest’s<br />

top music and dance venues, docked<br />

on the Danube. Buda XI, moored south of<br />

Petőfi Bridge. T: (+36 1) 464 3940, www.a38.hu<br />

Off Map<br />

ÁTRIUM THEATER A cultural hub offering Englishlanguage<br />

theater performances, dance shows,<br />

and live concerts. Buda II, Margit krt. 55. T: (+36<br />

1) 317 9338, www.atriumfilmszinhaz.hu Map E3<br />

BUDAI VIGADO Also known as the Hungarian<br />

Heritage House, this cultural center stages<br />

mostly Hungarian folk dance and music performances.<br />

Buda I, Corvin tér 8. T: (+36 1) 225 6049,<br />

www. heritagehouse.hu Map D3<br />

BUDAPEST MUSIC CENTER (BMC) This complex<br />

encompasses a comprehensive music library,<br />

a record label, and multiple venues that showcase<br />

established and promising musicians,<br />

including the well-regarded Opus Jazz Club.<br />

Pest IX, Mátyás u. 8. T: (+36 1) 216 7894, www.<br />

bmc. hu Map A6<br />

DANUBE PALACE Classical concerts and performances<br />

by the Hungarian State Folk Ensemble<br />

and other companies take place here. T: (+36 1)<br />

317 2754. Pest V, Zrínyi u. 5. www.dunapalota.<br />

hu Map D5<br />

FONÓ MUSIC HALL World music, folk music, folk<br />

dances, and jazz are performed on several<br />

stages at this venue. Buda XI, Sztregova u. 3. T:<br />

(+36 1) 206 5300, www. fono.hu Off Map<br />

KLEBELSBERG CULTURAL CENTRE Tucked into<br />

the serene Buda hills, this cultural gem hosts<br />

modern and folk dancing, classical theater, and<br />

contemporary arts. Buda II, Templom u. 2-10. T:<br />

(+36 1) 392 0860, www.kulturkuria.hu Off Map<br />

LISZT FERENC ACADEMY OF MUSIC Top-notch music<br />

performances unfold at this Art Nouveau music<br />

university founded by its namesake composer. It<br />

has a splendid main concert hall and a smaller hall<br />

for chamber music performances. Guided tours<br />

every day at 1:30pm. Pest VI, Liszt Ferenc tér 8. T:<br />

(+36 1) 462 4600, www.lisztacademy.hu Map D6<br />

MADÁCH THEATER A grand, modern playhouse<br />

featuring a plush interior and elaborate productions<br />

of hit musicals like Cats and Mary Poppins.<br />

English subtitles are provided for some<br />

shows. Pest VII, Erzsébet krt. 29-33. T: (+36 1) 478<br />

2041, www.madachszinhaz.hu Map D7<br />

MARGARET ISLAND OPEN-AIR STAGE This beautiful<br />

amphitheater is situated in the middle of Margaret<br />

Island, an urban retreated planted directly in the<br />

middle of the Danube. It makes for a magical<br />

summer evening. Margaret Island, under the Water<br />

Tower (accessible by bus 26 from Nyugati Square).<br />

Open in the summer. www. szabadter.hu Off Map<br />

MATTHIAS CHURCH Located on Castle Hill near<br />

Fisherman’s Bastion, this impressive church<br />

with its colorful ceramic tiled roof and richly<br />

decorated interior is a must-see sight for tourists.<br />

It also presents regular classical and church<br />

music concerts. Buda I, Szentháromság tér.<br />

www. matyas-templom.hu Map D3<br />

www.wheretraveler.com 13


ENTERTAINMENT<br />

ENTERTAINMENT<br />

Tropicarium<br />

the shark zoo<br />

ÓBUDAI TÁRSASKÖR Opulent performance hall<br />

that hosts classical and ragtime concerts. Buda<br />

III, Kiskorona u. 7. T: (+36 1) 250 0288, www.<br />

obudaitar- saskor.hu Off Map<br />

ORFEUM This underground evening cabaret serves<br />

up tasty cocktails and classy entertainment<br />

spanning swing and jazz shows to Frank Sinatra<br />

tributes and vaudeville performances. Closed on<br />

Mon- days. Pest VII, Erzsébet krt. 43-49. T: (+36 1)<br />

336 00 56, www.orfeumclub.hu Map D7<br />

PALACE OF ARTS Also called Müpa, this sprawling<br />

cultural complex features an impressive<br />

monthly line-up of well-known Hungarian and<br />

international artists in different venues. Pest IX,<br />

Komor Marcell u. 1, at the tram 2 Millenniumi<br />

Kulturális Központ stop. T: (+36 1) 555 3000,<br />

www.mupa.hu Off Map<br />

PESTI VIGADÓ Restored to its former glory, when<br />

it featured famous artists like Ferenc Liszt or<br />

Claude Debussy, the building now houses<br />

exhibits and all kinds of shows, concerts, and<br />

performances, largely in Hungarian. Pest V,<br />

Vigadó tér 2. www.vigado.hu Map C5<br />

ST. STEPHEN’S BASILICA This Neo-Renaissance<br />

church also offers regular organ and classical<br />

music concerts in an ambient, historic setting.<br />

Up- to-date program on the website. Pest V,<br />

Szent István tér 1, T: (+36 20) 823 2095, www.<br />

organcon- cert.hu Map D5<br />

THÁLIA THEATER This well-known playhouse on<br />

“Budapest’s Broadway” sometimes hosts opera,<br />

theater, and dance performances, largely in<br />

Hungarian. Pest VI, Nagymező u. 22-24. T: (+36 1)<br />

331 0500, www. thalia.hu Map D6<br />

TRAFÓ HOUSE OF CONTEMPORARY ARTS It’s a<br />

small, laidback theater, but this is the nexus for<br />

Budapest’s contemporary dance, theater, and<br />

modern circus scene. Pest IX, Liliom u. 41. T: (+36<br />

1) 215 1600, www.trafo.hu Map A7<br />

TRIP SHIP An offbeat venue for theater, concerts,<br />

dance performances, and programs for children.<br />

Buda I, Szilágyi Dezső tér, pier 2. T: (+36 20)<br />

355 6476, www.tripart.hu Map D4<br />

VÍGSZÍNHÁZ This late-19th-century theater<br />

on the city’s grand boulevard hosts comedy<br />

shows and an occasional English concert or<br />

performance. Pest XIII, Szent István krt. 14. T:<br />

(+36 1) 329 2340, www.vigszinhaz.hu Map F5<br />

OPERA & OPERETTA<br />

BUDAPEST OPERETTA THEATRE Modernized<br />

classic performances are sung in Hungarian, but<br />

subtitled in either English or German, at this richly<br />

decorated theater. Pest VI, Nagymező u. 17. T: (+36<br />

1) 312 4866, www.operett- szinhaz.hu Map F5<br />

ERKEL THEATER This modern musical theater<br />

is part of the State Opera and strives to make<br />

opera and ballet performances accessible to a<br />

wider public. Pest VIII, János Pál pápa tér 30, T:<br />

(+36 1) 814 7100, www.opera.hu Map C8<br />

HUNGARIAN STATE OPERA HOUSE - CLOSED<br />

FOR RENOVATION - This magnificent neo-<br />

Renaissance building offers a variety of classical<br />

and modern opera and ballet. On weekdays,<br />

tours are organized in the afternoon for those<br />

who want to explore the opulent interior. Or,<br />

simply pop into the main hall or café for a peek.<br />

Pest VI, Andrássy út 22, T: (+36 1) 814 7100, www.<br />

opera. hu Map D6<br />

Have you ever seen or dived with six 2 meter long<br />

shark within your arms reach? Have you ever stroked<br />

„angelfaced” rays? Have you ever heard how the<br />

alligators howl? If not, now is high time to visit the<br />

Tropicarium, the shark zoo, where not only the<br />

mentioned animals, but there are hundreds of<br />

exotic reptiles, tropical and freshwater fishes,<br />

free-flying birds, small monkeys too, which you<br />

can admire.<br />

Come with us and<br />

enjoy the atmosphere<br />

of the Tropics!<br />

BUDAPEST ZOO From regal tigers and playful<br />

orangutans to elephants housed in Art Nou-<br />

www.tropicarium.hu<br />

(also in English)<br />

Open: every day<br />

10.00–20.00<br />

JAZZ CLUBS<br />

BUDAPEST JAZZ CLUB Almost daily there are performances<br />

by classical and modern musicians from<br />

Hungary and around the world. Pest XIII, Hollán<br />

Ernő u. 7. T: (+36 70) 413 9837, www.bjc.hu Map F5<br />

COLUMBUS JAZZ PUB Floating musical ship features<br />

performances by talented Hungarian jazz<br />

musicians set to incredible views. Pest V, Vigadó<br />

tér 4 (docked on the Pest riverbank). T: (+36 1)<br />

266 9013, www.colum- buspub.hu Map C4<br />

IF JAZZ CAFE Gifted musicians perform live in this<br />

fashionable but relaxed hangout. Pest IX, Ráday u.<br />

19. T: (+36 1) 299 0694, www.ifkavezo.hu Map A6<br />

LADÓ CAFÉ Enjoy jazz classics performed by<br />

local musicians amid the retro ambience of a<br />

communist-era theater. Pest VII, Dohány u. 50. T:<br />

(+36 70) 350 3929, www.ladocafe. hu Map C7<br />

OPUS JAZZ CLUB Enjoy smooth jazz melodies<br />

at this downtown hotspot for regular live gigs<br />

featuring local and international musicians.<br />

Pest IX, Mátyás u. 8. T: (+36 1) 216 7894, www.<br />

opusjazzclub.hu Map A6<br />

ZOO<br />

14 <strong>WHERE</strong> BUDAPEST I SEPTEMBER <strong>2019</strong>


ENTERTAINMENT<br />

ENTERTAINMENT<br />

MÜPA’s concerts in August<br />

Rachele Andrioli & Rocco<br />

Nigro / Mimmo Epifani &<br />

The Barbers<br />

20 September <strong>2019</strong>, 8 pm,<br />

Festival Theatre<br />

Müpa will be hosting Italy's<br />

finest pizzica groups as part of<br />

the Bridging Europe Festival.<br />

Tambourinist/singer Rachele<br />

Andrioli and accordionist Rocco<br />

Nigro previously played with<br />

some of the finest groups in the<br />

genre. And the mandolin player/<br />

singer Mimmo Epifani is a living<br />

legend in the.<br />

Fonó Band: Atyai ág<br />

(Paternal Branch)<br />

24 September <strong>2019</strong>, 7.30<br />

pm, Béla Bartók National<br />

Concert Hall<br />

Following in the footsteps of<br />

research by Zoltán Kodály, the<br />

Fonó Band explores Hungarian folk<br />

music's Eastern connections. The<br />

award-winning group has based its<br />

repertoire on Hungarian folk music<br />

as well as the instrumental and<br />

vocal traditions of other peoples of<br />

the Carpathian Basin.<br />

Rolando Villazón song recital<br />

1 October <strong>2019</strong>, 7.30 pm,<br />

Béla Bartók National<br />

Concert Hall<br />

He sings, directs operas, manages<br />

festivals, draws cartoons and<br />

writes novels. The world-famous<br />

tenor will be guiding the audience<br />

through a relatively unfamiliar<br />

world: the Spanish and Latin<br />

American songs he has selected<br />

will captivate listeners with their<br />

unique atmosphere, vibrant<br />

temperament and exotic colours.<br />

Photo © ITV/REX Photo © Szilvia Csibi, Müpa<br />

Péter Eötvös<br />

and the<br />

Musikfabrik Köln<br />

17 September <strong>2019</strong><br />

Rolando Villazón<br />

song recital<br />

1 October <strong>2019</strong><br />

Corporate<br />

partner:<br />

Corporate<br />

media partner:<br />

mupa.hu<br />

Müpa Budapest is supported by<br />

the Ministry of Human Capacities<br />

Emberi Erőforrások<br />

Minisztériuma<br />

Tickets are available at Müpa Budapest Ticket Offices and online at www.mupa.hu<br />

For further information, please contact: +36 1 555 3300, +36 1 555 3310<br />

www.wheretraveler.com 15


ART &MUSEUMS<br />

"What matters in life<br />

is not what happens<br />

to you, but what you<br />

remember and how<br />

you remember it.” —<br />

Gabriel García<br />

Márquez<br />

As they traveled through different cities,<br />

Tomas Opitz and Bea Puskás were<br />

captivated by the local photography<br />

scenes they encountered along the way. Opitz,<br />

who studied architecture in Venezuela, and Puskás,<br />

who has degrees in geology and cultural<br />

management, were particularly inspired by the<br />

works of Latin American photographers. Buoyed<br />

by these international experiences, they opened<br />

the petite TOBE Gallery in Budapest’s offbeat<br />

District VIII, now one of the city’s hubs for<br />

thought-provoking art, in 2013.<br />

“When we were wondering what to do together,<br />

we felt that in a country with such a rich<br />

photography legacy there was a shortage of<br />

galleries that focused solely on contemporary<br />

works from the genre. It was a missing segment.”<br />

explains Puskás. “We also wanted to bring new<br />

colors to Budapest. That’s why we started with<br />

Latin American artists. They have different visions<br />

and motivations.”<br />

Now working with 18 artists, 11 of them with Latin<br />

American roots, seven of them Hungarian, Opitz<br />

and Puskás are constantly on the move yet again,<br />

attending art fairs and festivals around Europe like<br />

MIA Photo Fair in Milan, Photo London,<br />

viennacontemporary, and the Rencontres d’Arles in<br />

France to reach potential buyers and collectors and<br />

“strengthen the presence of Hungarian art and<br />

photography,” points out Opitz.<br />

For the first half of <strong>2019</strong>, Opitz and Puskás delved<br />

into the theme of memory, putting female artists<br />

including Barcelona-based Carla Tabora, Cristina<br />

Kahlo from Mexico City, and Budapest’s Anikó<br />

Robitz in the spotlight. Now, after a summer spent<br />

on Lake Balaton, where TOBE Gallery curated the<br />

exhibition Bodybuilding at the Pegazus gallery,<br />

the pair is back in Budapest to present the<br />

Scattered Cities exhibition this month (September<br />

3-10). It features the works of Rio de Janeiro<br />

photographer Bruno Veiga, who first started<br />

shooting in the 1980s for Brazilian newspapers.<br />

Later in the fall and winter, there will be exhibitions<br />

devoted to Hungarian, London-based Bálint<br />

Álovits and photo-collage creations by Gustavo<br />

Blanco-Uribe, a Venezuelan multi-disciplinary artist<br />

living in Madrid.<br />

TOBE Gallery has nurtured a burgeoning<br />

contemporary photography scene in Budapest, but<br />

it’s only the beginning for Opitz and Puskás. Says<br />

Opitz, “What we consider necessary is a closer<br />

relationship between galleries, between galleries<br />

and institutions, and between galleries, institutions,<br />

and collectors.” Bródy Sándor u. 36, tobegallery.hu<br />

16 <strong>WHERE</strong> BUDAPEST I JANUARY SEPTEMBER <strong>2019</strong> <strong>2019</strong>


MUSEUMS & GALLERIES<br />

ART MUSEUMS<br />

CAPA CENTER Honoring the Hungarian-born<br />

maverick photographer Robert Capa, this center<br />

for photography offers illuminating displays.<br />

Pest VI, Nagymező u. 8. T: (+36 1) 413 1310, Open<br />

Mon- Sun, www.capacenter.hu Map D6<br />

EAST ASIAN ART MUSEUM FERENC HOPP Fascinating<br />

artifacts from throughout the Far East<br />

displayed in a grand mansion. Open Wed-Sun.<br />

Pest VI, Andrássy út 103. Map F7<br />

LUDWIG MUSEUM A permanent collection and<br />

temporary exhibitions of contemporary works<br />

by Hungarian and international artists (with<br />

an emphasis on Central-European and Russian<br />

artists), located at the Palace of Arts. Open Tue-<br />

Sun untill 8pm. Pest IX, Komor Marcell u. 1. T:<br />

(+36 1) 555 3444, www.lumu.hu Off Map<br />

MAI MANÓ The Hungarian House of Photography<br />

presents a range of exhibitions by international<br />

and contemporary, local artists . Open<br />

Mon-Fri 2pm-7pm and Sat-Sun 11am-7pm. Pest<br />

VI, Nagymező u. 20. T: (+36 1) 473 2669, www.<br />

maimano.hu Map D6<br />

MŰCSARNOK (KUNSTHALLE) Rotating contemporary<br />

exhibitions of modern art and design<br />

are juxtaposed with its setting in an old, ornate<br />

building. Open Tue-Sun, closed on Mon and<br />

Thurs morning. Pest XIV, Heroes’ Square. T: (+36<br />

1) 460 7000, www.mucsarnok.hu Map F8<br />

FINE ARTS MUSEUM A bountiful collection of Egyptian<br />

antiquities, Old Master paintings, and the Old<br />

Hungarian Collection, encompassing works from<br />

the eleventh century to 1800. Pest XIV, Heroes’<br />

Square. T: (+36 1) 469 7100, www.mfab.hu Map F8<br />

NATIONAL GALLERY Along with the various<br />

permanent exhibitions of Hungarian fine art<br />

focusing on paintings from the 18th, 19th, and<br />

20th centuries, this museum organizes many<br />

illuminating temporary exhibitions. Open Tue-<br />

Sun. Buda I, Royal Palace, Szent György tér 2. T:<br />

(+36 1) 201 9082, www.mng.hu Map C3-4<br />

a restored palace. Open Tue-Sun. Buda I, Royal<br />

Palace (Wing E). T: (+36 1) 487 8800, www. btm.<br />

hu Map C3<br />

HOLOCAUST MEMORIAL CENTER Permanent<br />

exhibition on the forces that led to the<br />

Hungarian Holocaust, alongside timely and<br />

insightful temporary exhibits on social issues.<br />

Pest IX, Páva u. 39. Open Tue-Sun. T: (+36 1) 455<br />

3333, www.hdke. hu Map A7<br />

HOSPITAL IN THE ROCK This WWII-era medical<br />

facility, later a secret nuclear bunker, is found in<br />

the tunnels and caves underneath Castle Hill. A<br />

fascinating one-hour tour kicks off with a short<br />

documentary about Hungary’s 20th-century<br />

history. Open Mon-Sun. Buda I, Lovas u. 4/C. T:<br />

(+36 70) 701 0101, www.sziklakorhaz.eu Map D3<br />

HOUSE OF TERROR MUSEUM Infamous as the<br />

headquarters for fascists in the 1940s and then<br />

the communist secret service, this building is<br />

now a memorial museum. Open Tue-Sun. Pest<br />

VI, Andrássy út 60. T: (+36 1) 374 2600, www.terrorhaza.hu<br />

Map E6<br />

HUNGARIAN RAILWAY MUSEUM An open-air<br />

museum on a former rail yard with an amazing<br />

collection of vintage engines and other<br />

objects. Visitors can also ride several models of<br />

rail vehicles. Easily reachable from Nyugati and<br />

Keleti Stations. Open Apr-Nov (Mon closed).<br />

Pest XIV, Tatai út 95. T: (+36 1) 450 1497, www.<br />

vasuttortenetipark.hu/en<br />

IMRE VARGA COLLECTION An ode to the Hungarian<br />

sculptor, featuring originals . Buda III,<br />

Laktanya utca 7, (Óbuda), www.budapestgaleria.hu<br />

Off Map<br />

KASSÁK MUSEUM Lajos Kassák was was one of<br />

the first Hungarian working-class writers of<br />

the early 20th century. The museum exhibits<br />

graphics, prints, periodicals, and drawings<br />

connected to his work. Buda III, Fő tér 1. www.<br />

kassakmuzeum.hu Off Map<br />

KISCELLI MUSEUM Paintings, sculptures, drawings,<br />

coins, and medals are exhibited in a regal<br />

Buda estate. Open Tue-Fri. Buda III, Kiscelli u.<br />

108. T: (+36 1) 250 0304 www.kiscellimuzeum.<br />

hu Off Map<br />

LISZT FERENC MUSEUM The house where the<br />

composer used to live (1881-1886) when in<br />

Budapest is a small museum with original<br />

furniture, musical instruments, memorabilia,<br />

and transcripts. There is also a small concert<br />

hall, part of the original Academy of Music that<br />

he founded. Buda VI, Vörösmarty u. 35, T: (+36<br />

1) 413 0440 www.lisztmuseum.hu Map E7<br />

MIKSA RÓTH MEMORIAL HOUSE The former<br />

home of this Hungarian stained-glass master<br />

features some of his original furniture and<br />

works. The exhibition is primarily in Hungarian.<br />

Pest VII, Nefelejcs u. 26. T: (+36 1) 341 6789<br />

www.rothmuze- um.hu Map D8<br />

SPECIALTY MUSEUMS<br />

AQUINCUM MUSEUM Ancient ruins from the<br />

2,000-year-old capital of a Roman province are<br />

complemented by a museum with restored<br />

mosaics and wall paintings. Open Tue-Sun.<br />

Buda III, Szentendrei út 135. T: (+36 1) 250 1650,<br />

www. aquincum.hu Off Map<br />

ARANY SAS PHARMACY MUSEUM Buda’ s oldest<br />

pharmacy, the “Golden Eagle” is recreated<br />

in the Castle District. Open Tue-Sun. Buda I,<br />

Tárnok u. 18. T: (+36 1) 375-9772, www.semmelweismuseum.hu<br />

Map D3<br />

ARMY HEADQUARTERS BUILDING After seven<br />

decades, and many unrealized renovation<br />

plans, this former army headquarters is open to<br />

the public again, hosting various exhibits and<br />

cultural events. Buda I, Dísz tér 17. Map C-D3<br />

BÉLA BARTÓK MEMORIAL HOUSE The house<br />

where the composer lived before he emigrated<br />

from Hungary to the U.S., is now a museum,<br />

with original furniture and Bartók’s folk-art<br />

collection, photos, and letters. Open Tue-Sat.<br />

Buda II, Csalán út 29. T: (+36 1) 394 2100, www.<br />

bartokmuseum. hu Off Map<br />

CASTLE MUSEUM Part of the Budapest History<br />

Museum, this permanent exhibition is set amid<br />

‘‘<br />

A Grande Dame Returns<br />

The recent renovation of the Museum of Fine Arts, which first opened<br />

in 1906, is an invitation to visit. Among the collections of international<br />

and Hungarian art (before 1800), don’t miss the sculpture collection,<br />

including pieces by the Renaissance-era Andrea del Verrocchio and<br />

Austrian baroque works by Georg Rafael Donner.<br />

‘‘<br />

www.wheretraveler.com 17


MUSEUMS & GALLERIES<br />

‘‘<br />

Visual Memory<br />

Roman Uranjek and Radenko Milak, artists of different generations, were both reared in the former Yugoslavia.<br />

Since 2014 the two have been collaborating on DATES, a meditative form of cultural and political activism that<br />

asks questions about science, art, and society. Ani Molnár Gallery presents their latest works in DATES 9. Uranjek’s<br />

collage of images culled from different periods of history stitches together a bold, surprising narrative and Milak<br />

explores 20th-century Hungary by transforming photojournalism images into monochrome watercolors. An<br />

interplay of past and present, these pieces suggest that the ideal of future progress is all too often trumped by the<br />

repetition of history. Through October 5; Bródy Sándor u. 36, molnaranigaleria.hu<br />

NATIONAL MUSEUM A deep dive into Hungary’s<br />

history, beginning with the nation’s foundation.<br />

A one-hour English tour on Thursdays at 11am<br />

requires registration. Open Tue-Sun. Pest VIII,<br />

Múzeum krt. 14-16. T: (+36 1) 338 2122, www.<br />

mnm.hu Map B6<br />

NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM An educational<br />

complex that features an aquarium, a whale<br />

skeleton, fossils, and stuffed animals, with<br />

descriptions primarily in Hungarian. Open Wed-<br />

Sun. Pest VIII, Ludovika tér 2-6. T: (+36 1) 210<br />

1085, www.nhmus.hu Off Map<br />

SEMMELWEIS MUSEUM The history of Western<br />

medicine, with special emphasis on Hungary<br />

and the work of Hungarian doctor Ignaz Semmelweis,<br />

an early pioneer of antiseptics. Open<br />

Tue-Sun, Buda I, Apród utca 1-3. T: (+ 36 1) 375<br />

3533, www.semmelweis.museum.hu, Map C4<br />

STATUE PARK Huge statues of Marx, Lenin, and<br />

other communist-era figures fill this open-air<br />

park. Open daily 10am- dusk. Direct buses leave<br />

Deák tér daily from 11am. Buda XXII, Balatoni út/<br />

Szabadkai u. T: (+36 1) 424 7500, www.mementopark.hu<br />

Off Map<br />

VÁRKERT BAZAAR At the foot of Buda Castle,<br />

these neo-renaissance palaces house several<br />

permanent and temporary exhibitions, including<br />

the Hungaricon (objects from or by famous<br />

Hungarian personalities), and a wooden<br />

model of Buda. In the gardens are two festival<br />

grounds. Buda I, Miklós Ybl tér. T: (+36 1) 225<br />

0310, www. varkertbazar.hu Map C4<br />

VASARLY MUSEUM Hidden away in Old Buda<br />

(Óbuda), this museum is dedicated to one of<br />

the major Hungarian avant-garde artists from<br />

the 20th century. Victor Vasarély was born in<br />

Hungary, lived and worked most of his life in<br />

Paris, and is considered the grandfather of<br />

the Op Art movement of the 1950s. Buda III,<br />

Szentlélek tér 6, www.vasarely.hu Off Map<br />

ART GALLERIES<br />

ACB GALLERY Leading contemporary Hungarian<br />

artworks. Open Tue-Fri 2pm-6pm. Pest VI, Király<br />

u. 76. T: (+36 1) 413 7608, www.acbgaleria. hu<br />

Map D6<br />

ARI KUPSUS GALLERY This unconventional<br />

gallery hosts 10 contemporary shows a year,<br />

featuring a diverse blend of Hungarian and<br />

international artists. Pest VIII, Bródy Sándor u.<br />

‘‘<br />

23/B. T: (+36 20) 322 0334, www.arikupsusgallery.com<br />

Map C7<br />

ART + TEXT This space focuses on post-war and<br />

contemporary art and photography. Pest V,<br />

Honvéd u. 3. T: (+36 20) 935 9889, www. artplustextbudapest.com<br />

Map E5<br />

CHIMERA-PROJECT This contemporary art incubator<br />

celebrates the roots of the Hungarian<br />

neo-avant garde . Open Tue-Fri 3pm-6pm or<br />

upon appointment. Pest VII, Klauzál tér 5. www.<br />

chimera-project.com Map C6<br />

DEÁK ERIKA GALÉRIA Cutting-edge showcase of<br />

young Hungarian artists, many in new media.<br />

Open Wed-Fri noon-6pm and Sat 11am-4pm.<br />

Pest VI, Mozsár u. 1. T: (+36 1) 201 3740, www.<br />

deakgaleria. hu Map D6<br />

ERNST GALÉRIA Showcasing venerable Hungarian<br />

and international fine arts, antiques, paintings,<br />

film posters, and more in two locations.<br />

Its aim is to introduce Hungarian painters to<br />

the international context, namely to private<br />

and public collections in Hungary and abroad.<br />

www. ernstgaleria.hu Pest V, Irányi u. 27. T: (+36<br />

1) 266 4016 Map B5<br />

FAUR ZSÓFI-RÁDAY GALÉRIA One of the first<br />

Hungarian private galleries after the change of<br />

PHOTO: RADENKO MILAK AND ROMAN URANJEK, APRIL 23, 1924, JULIE KNIFER IS BORN, 2015, MIXED MEDIA, 71 X 161 CM, COURTESY OF ANI MOLNÁR GALLERY<br />

18 <strong>WHERE</strong> BUDAPEST I SEPTEMBER <strong>2019</strong>


MUSEUMS & GALLERIES<br />

the regime, it showcases Hungarian contemporary<br />

fine art and photography. Open Mon-Fri<br />

noon-6pm. Buda XI, Bartók Bela út 25. T: (+36 1)<br />

209 3635, www.galeriafaur.hu Map A4<br />

INDA Since 2006, Inda has highlighted the works<br />

of contemporary artists in a wide range of<br />

media, including painting, drawing, sculpture,<br />

video, and photography.. T: (+36 1) 413<br />

1960. Pest VI, Király u. 34. www.indagaleria.hu<br />

Map D6<br />

KARTON A sleek and modern gallery hosting<br />

regular art exhibitions in a variety of mediums.<br />

Open Mon-Fri 1pm-6pm. Pest V, Alkotmány u.<br />

18. T: (+36 1) 427 0000, www.karton.hu Map E5<br />

KIESELBACH GALLERY Viewings and auctions of<br />

high-quality classical Hungarian and international<br />

paintings. Open Mon-Sun 10am-6pm.<br />

Pest V, Szt. István krt. 5. T: (+36 1) 269 3148, www.<br />

kieselbach. hu Map F5<br />

KISTEREM Representing local artists, Kisterem<br />

hosts exhibitions that explore a wide variety<br />

of genres, including drawing, sculpture, and<br />

multi- textured models fashioned out of everyday<br />

materials. Open Tue-Fri 2pm–6pm. Pest,<br />

Képíró u. 5. T: (+36 1) 267 0522, www.kisterem.<br />

hu Map B6<br />

KNOLL GALÉRIA BUDAPEST As one of Pest’s first<br />

private galleries after the fall of the Soviet Bloc,<br />

this pioneering institution helped develop<br />

the independent art scene by cultivating fresh<br />

Hungarian and foreign talent. Open Tue-Sat.<br />

Pest VI, Liszt Ferenc tér 10. T: (+36 1) 267 3842,<br />

www.knollgaleria.hu Map D6<br />

KOGART HOUSE The museum is home to the<br />

Gábor Kovács Art Collection, covering Hungarian<br />

art ranging from the beginning of the 18th<br />

until the mid-20th century. Located in a beautiful<br />

villa close to Heroes’ Square. Open Mon-Fri.<br />

Pest VI, Andrássy út 112. T: (+36 1) 354 3820,<br />

www.kogart. hu Map F7<br />

KOLLER GALLERY Elegantly situated in Budapest’s<br />

Castle District, specializing in contemporary<br />

etchings and graphics. Open daily 10am-<br />

6pm. Buda I, Táncsics Mihály u. 5. T: (+36 1) 356<br />

9208, www.kollergaleria.hu Map D3<br />

LUMAS BUDAPEST A sun-lit setting for intriguing<br />

photography that aims to demystify art collecting.<br />

Pest V, Október 6. u. 21. T: (+36 1) 301 0833,<br />

www.lumas. com Map D5<br />

MOLNÁR ANI GALLERY Artists of many generations<br />

and mediums, with a preference for<br />

experimental materials, show their intriguing,<br />

high-quality pieces in an intimate environment.<br />

Open Tue-Fri noon-6pm. Pest VIII, Bródy Sándor<br />

u. 36. T: (+36 1) 327 0095, www.molnaranigaleria.<br />

hu Map B7<br />

MORÓ ANTIK An antique store specializing in old<br />

guns, rapiers, and sophisticated canes. Open<br />

Mon-Fri 10am-6pm and Sat 10am-1pm. Pest V,<br />

Falk Miksa u. 13. T: (+36 1) 311 0814, www.moroantik.hu<br />

Map F5<br />

NAGYHÁZI GALLERY AND AUCTION HOUSE One<br />

of the city’s oldest antique shops, offering furniture,<br />

paintings, and lamps. Pest V, Balaton u. 8.<br />

T: (+36 1) 475 6000, www.nagyhazi.hu Map F5<br />

TOBE GALLERY This gallery is focused on Ibero-<br />

American and Hungarian contemporary photography<br />

and collage art. Regular exhibitions<br />

by Hungarian and international artists. Open<br />

Wed-Fri 2pm-6pm, Sat 11am-3pm. Pest VIII,<br />

Bródy Sándor u. 36. T: (+36 20) 484 0490, www.<br />

tobegallery.hu Map B7<br />

VÁRFOK GALÉRIA One of Buda’s few contemporary<br />

galleries, showing works by renowned<br />

and up-and-coming Hungarian artists. Open<br />

Tue-Sat 11am-6pm. Buda I, Várfok u. 11. T: (+36 1)<br />

213 5155, www.varfok-galeria.hu Map E2<br />

VILTIN Hungarian paintings, sculptures, and photography<br />

are displayed in this contemporary<br />

gallery. Open Tue-Sat. Pest VI, Vasvári Pál u. 1. T:<br />

(+36 1) 787 5866, www.viltin.hu Map D6<br />

VINTAGE Displaying both contemporary and<br />

modern works by Hungarian artists, Vintage is<br />

a good place to view photography and new<br />

media. Pest V, Magyar u. 26. T: (+36 20) 913 6291,<br />

www. vintage.hu Map B6<br />

VIRÁG JUDIT This gallery, located on Pest’s famed<br />

antiques street, presents Zsolnay ceramics and<br />

high quality Hungarian paintings from the 19th<br />

and 20th centuries, as well as organizes regular<br />

auctions, along with a variety of thematic exhibitions.<br />

Pest V, Falk Miksa u. 30. T: (36 1) 312 2071,<br />

www.viragjuditgaleria.hu Map F5<br />

SZENTENDRE<br />

BARCSAY COLLECTION Small color compositions<br />

and study drawings in the constructivist style<br />

by Jenő Barcsay, inside a Szentendre home.<br />

Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. Szentendre 2000,<br />

Dumtsa Jenő u. 10. T: (+36 20) 779 6657, www.<br />

muzeumi- centrum.hu Off Map<br />

Salvador Dalí: Dormeuse, cheval, lion invisibles, 1930. Centre Pompidou,<br />

MNAM-CCI/Philippe Migeat/Dist. RMN-GP © Salvador Dalí,<br />

Fundació Gala-Salvador Dali / Adagp, Paris<br />

BÉLA CZÓBEL MUSEUM This small museum<br />

showcases the work of one of the most important<br />

modernist painters of Hungary, who<br />

introduced the post-impressionist style to the<br />

country. Open Tue-Sun 10am- 6pm. Szentendre<br />

2000, Templom tér 1, T: (+36 20) 742 3145, ,<br />

www.muzeumicentrum.hu Off Map<br />

FERENCZY MUSEUM Károly Ferenczy is considered<br />

the father of Hungarian impressionist<br />

painting. He was one of the founders of the<br />

Nagybánya artist colony and later lived and<br />

worked here. Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. Szentendre<br />

2000, Kossuth Lajos u. 5, T: (+36 20) 779<br />

6657, ww.muzeumicentrum.hu Off Map<br />

MARGIT KOVÁCS MUSEUM Drawing from folk<br />

and Byzantine influences, this famous 20thcentury<br />

ceramic sculptor reached high fame<br />

throughout Hungary. Open daily 10am-6pm.<br />

Szentendre 2000, Vastagh György u. 1. T: (+36<br />

20) 779 6651 Szentendre 2000, Templom tér 1,<br />

www. muzeumicentrum.hu Off Map<br />

MŰVÉSZETMALOM Once a spice mill, now it<br />

houses regular contemporary exhibitions.<br />

Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. Szentendre 2000,<br />

Bogdányi u. 32. T: (+36 20) 779 6657, www.<br />

muzeumicentrum. hu Off Map<br />

SERBIAN ORTHODOX CHURCHES There is an exceptional<br />

Orthodox church on Fő tér (closed<br />

on Mondays) and another more ornate,<br />

18th-century Baroque one, which doubles<br />

as an ecclesiastical museum. (Pátriárka u. 5.).<br />

Off Map<br />

An exhibition organised by the Centre Pompidou, Paris and the Museum of Fine Arts – Hungarian National Gallery, Budapest.<br />

Major Sponsor:<br />

28 June – 20 October <strong>2019</strong><br />

Hungarian national gallery<br />

Corporate Partners:<br />

en.mng.hu<br />

www.wheretraveler.com 19


SHOPS & SERVICES<br />

“I can’t think without<br />

my glasses.” —<br />

Vivienne Westwood<br />

Upon entering the Tipton Eyeworks<br />

showroom in District V, the first<br />

thing one notices is the<br />

assortment of good-looking glasses on<br />

display. Largely in black and flaunting a<br />

contemporary style, they are arranged<br />

reverently and elegantly, as if they were in a<br />

gallery. There is an impressive stash of<br />

vinyl that also grabs attention, and<br />

throughout the day different albums<br />

make their way onto the record player,<br />

Madonna, say, followed by Louis<br />

Armstrong. Showcasing these objects<br />

alongside each other is not<br />

coincidental.<br />

Upscale yet quirky, Tipton Eyeworks,<br />

which features an assembly workshop in<br />

back, is the brainchild of Zachary Tipton. Born in<br />

Idaho to a Hungarian mother, Tipton grew up in<br />

the States, Socialist-era Hungary, and other<br />

locations in between.<br />

In the 1990s, when he was living in Seattle, his<br />

vision started to suffer. With a knack for carpentry<br />

(“I made my own guitars,” Tipton recalls), the<br />

ambitious Tipton set out to craft his own<br />

pair of eyeglasses, tinkering<br />

unsuccessfully with various<br />

plastics. When he observed<br />

his father’s stack of old<br />

records in the garage, the<br />

idea for Vinylize was<br />

sparked and he began<br />

transforming vinyl into<br />

frames with the help of<br />

cigar box hinges.<br />

Although he had been<br />

embracing vinyl since 1998, it<br />

wasn’t until 2004 that Tipton<br />

officially launched his prescriptionready<br />

eyewear collection in Budapest,<br />

producing them in a one-time Communist<br />

eyeglass factory he apprenticed at for three years<br />

with vinyl sourced from Europe’s last pressing plant.<br />

Over the last 15 years, Vinylize’s presence has grown<br />

significantly in Budapest and beyond, with celebrities<br />

like Robbie Williams and Questlove clamoring for the<br />

frames. Musicians in particular seem to gravitate<br />

towards Vinylize. At the Sziget festival, for example,<br />

which takes place on a Budapest island every August,<br />

bespoke glasses are made for the headliners from<br />

the musicians’ own records. Likewise, through a<br />

licensing deal with AC/DC, polarized sunglasses are<br />

spawned from the Australian rock band’s 12” vinyl<br />

Back in Black album.<br />

Tipton’s experimental nature has led him to make<br />

glasses with the likes of recycled film strips (a pair<br />

was ordered for Elton John’s birthday) and dyed<br />

vinyl, but other than the abundance of custom<br />

orders, he’s devoted solely to the classic Vinylize<br />

collection now. “I want to focus on one brand with<br />

one purpose,” he says. Irányi u. 20; tiptonbudapest.<br />

com; vinylize.com<br />

SPECIAL OFFER TO <strong>WHERE</strong> READERS: BRING YOUR<br />

COPY OF THE MAGAZINE TO TIPTON EYEWORKS,<br />

AND YOU’LL BE TREATED TO A COMPLIMENTARY<br />

EYE EXAM (VALUE=10,000 HUF), AVAILABLE<br />

MONDAY THROUGH SATURDAY<br />

20 <strong>WHERE</strong> BUDAPEST I SEPTEMBER <strong>2019</strong>


SHOPS & SERVICES<br />

ACCESSORIES<br />

COCCINELLE Handbags and accessories that<br />

capture the modern woman: dynamic, glamorous,<br />

and urban. This Italian brand is especially<br />

known for its production quality. Pest VI,<br />

Andrássy út 13. T: (+36 70) 261 5050, www.coccinelle.com<br />

Map D6<br />

FREYWILLE Viennese fine jeweler with distinctive<br />

enameled gold designs in artistic and timeless<br />

styles. Bracelets, rings, necklaces, and more<br />

are inspired by the works of Mucha, Klimt,<br />

and other renowned artists. www.frey-wille.<br />

com Pest VI, Andrássy út 43. T: (+36 1) 413 0174<br />

Map D6<br />

FURLA Synonymous with high quality, Furla<br />

hand- bags display elegance, femininity, and<br />

ornate detailing, handcrafted in Italy by skilled<br />

artisans according to age-old leather-making<br />

traditions. There is a wide selection of hobos,<br />

satchels, totes, and evening bags. Pest V,<br />

Fashion Street - Deák Ferenc u. 23. T: (+36 1) 328<br />

0851, www.furla.com Map C5<br />

HARD ROCK SHOP This Hard Rock Cafe retail<br />

outpost offers a full selection of goods including<br />

pins, T-shirts, and glassware. Open Sun-Thu<br />

10am-1am and Fri-Sat 10am-2am. Pest V, Deák<br />

Ferenc u. 3. (at Vörösmarty tér). www.facebook.<br />

com/hardrockcafebudapest Map C5<br />

MARCO BICEGO Marco Bicego is known for his<br />

handmade 18-carat gold jewelry adorned with<br />

gemstones and inspired by nature. Pest VI,<br />

Andrássy út 13. T: (+36 1) 328 0117, www.marcobicego.com<br />

Map D6<br />

ORANGE OPTIKA Selection of glasses from such<br />

brands as KunoQvist, Minima, François Pinton,<br />

and Pilgrim. Pest VI, Király u. 38. T: (+36 1) 243<br />

2931, www. orangeoptika.hu Map D6<br />

TIPTON EYEWORKS Inspired by his father’s stash<br />

of old records, American-Hungarian designer<br />

Zachary Tipton Milaskey began crafting glasses<br />

with vinyl frames. Pest V, Irányi u. 20. T: (+36 1)<br />

786 1080, www.tiptonbudapest. com Map B5<br />

VARGA DESIGN Radiant jewelry designed by<br />

metal mastermind Miklós Varga. The sophisticated<br />

line mixes interwoven metals with<br />

expertly applied diamonds and pearls. Pest V,<br />

Haris köz 6. T: (+36 1) 318 4089, www.vargadesign.<br />

hu Map C5<br />

CLOTHING<br />

FASHION STREET Top international brands are<br />

found on, or near, Deák Ferenc Street, also<br />

known as Fashion Street, including Massimo<br />

Dutti, Furla, and Hungary’s own Nanushka.<br />

Pest V, Deák Ferenc utca. www.fashionstreet.<br />

hu Map C5<br />

ÁERON Born into a textile dynasty, designer<br />

Eszter Áron says her childhood experiences<br />

influenced her aesthetics. The Áeron brand is<br />

known for its clean, sharp lines and exquisite<br />

craftsmanship. Pest V, Zrínyi u. 4. www.aeron.<br />

hu Map D4<br />

ANDA Sleek clothing with simple lines and rich<br />

fabrics from Hungarian designer Emilia Anda.<br />

Pest V, Galamb u. 4. T: (+36 30) 933 9746, www.<br />

andaemi.com Map B5<br />

BARBARA LÉBER Sophisticated wedding dresses<br />

and evening clothes by a Hungarian designer.<br />

By appointment only. Buda XII, Alkotás u. 39/c.<br />

T: (+36 20) 955 5686, www.leberbarbara.hu<br />

Map C2<br />

BERLIN STORE BUDAPEST This store is devoted<br />

to Hungarian designers, where guests can get<br />

to know a number of local labels including<br />

Sandor Lakatos, Mei Kawa, Alma Abonyi, Anna<br />

Amélie, Kata Szegedi, NYD, Vanda Ferencz,<br />

Manier, and Aarion. Pest VI, Andrássy út 18.<br />

www.facebook.com/berlinstorebudapest<br />

Map D6<br />

BP CLOTHING This brand offers urban streetwear<br />

for men and women, boasting the initials BP in<br />

tribute to Budapest. The collection consists of<br />

hoodies, shirts, sweatshirts, funky phone cases,<br />

and other accessories. Pest VII, Wesselényi<br />

utca 24. T: (+36 70) 409 5114, www.bpshop.hu<br />

Map C6<br />

BURBERRY Dignified fashions from England.<br />

Collections for men, women, and children,<br />

renowned for functional outerwear like the<br />

timeless trench coat. Pest VI, Andrássy út 24. T:<br />

(+36 1) 302 0628, www.burberry.com Map D6<br />

DAALARNA Wedding dresses and special occasion<br />

wear by Hungarian designer Anita Benes.<br />

Her designs are feminine, chic, and elegant.<br />

Open Mon- Fri noon-8pm. Pest V, Alkotmány<br />

u. 16. T: (+36 30) 306 4094, www.daalarna.hu<br />

Map E5<br />

DÓRA MÓJZES Urban, reckless, and cool, clothes<br />

by Hungarian designer Dóra Mójzes definitely<br />

attract attention while also reflecting subtle<br />

femininity. Her line, Y.ld, is available at Retrock:<br />

Pest VI, Anker köz 2-4. www.retrock. com<br />

Map C5<br />

JE SUIS BELLE Translating to “I am beautiful,” two<br />

local fashionistas design graceful and playful<br />

clothes for customers who live up to the<br />

boutique’s name. Open Mon-Sat. Pest VI, Paulay<br />

Ede u. 67. T: (+36 70) 220 1044, www. jesuisbelle.<br />

hu Map B5<br />

KATA SZEGEDI As an emerging artist, Kata Szegedi<br />

designs innovative and modern clothes<br />

for independent and cosmopolitan women.<br />

The label experiments with silhouettes, shapes,<br />

textures, and colors. Pest V, Fehér Hajó u. 12-14.<br />

www.kataszegedi.com Map C5<br />

KATTI ZOÓB Modern tailoring by the acclaimed<br />

Hungarian designer, who has helped shape<br />

the Hungarian fashion scene for more than 20<br />

years. Pest V, Szent István krt. 17. T: (+36 30) 657<br />

5794, www.kattizoob.hu Map E5<br />

LÁTOMÁS Contemporary women’s fashion boutique<br />

offering cutting-edge clothing and oneof-a-kind<br />

accessories. www.latomas.hu Pest VII,<br />

Király u. 39. T: (+36 1) 786 6659 Map C6; and Pest<br />

VII, Dohány u. 16-18. T: (+36 1) 267 2158 Map C6<br />

LUCKY SHEPHERD This store offers a curated<br />

collection of high-quality Hungarian brands.<br />

Visitors can find everything from everyday to<br />

formal wear, along with leather accessories.<br />

Designers include Gabo Szerencses, Juhaszdora,<br />

and Paperreka. Buda II, Fő u. 63. www.<br />

luckyshepherd.com Map E3<br />

www.wheretraveler.com 21


SHOPS & SERVICES | PRODUCTS<br />

Nanushka<br />

The Hungarian brand by now has a worldwide<br />

fan base. Her spring-summer collection<br />

features natural creams and whites fused with<br />

pinks, blues and burnt orange. Listing p.23.<br />

Adrienne Feller<br />

uses aromatherapy and essential oils to<br />

create balance. Their new mineral sunscreens<br />

protect the skin from the harmful rays. www.<br />

adriennefellerwebshop.hu<br />

Fröccs<br />

Fröccs, a popular summer beverage, is a mixed<br />

chilled drink of wine diluted with soda water.<br />

Fresh enough to quench your thirst, fizzy like a<br />

soda, and just enough wine to chill the mind.<br />

Printa<br />

Printa works with local artists, using<br />

upcycled, organic materials to create unique<br />

and environmental-friendly clothing and<br />

gifts. Their cotton Ts are cool in more ways<br />

than one! www.printa.hu<br />

HIT<br />

REFRESH<br />

early<br />

autumn<br />

gifts<br />

Ice cream<br />

The staff at Gelarto Rosa near the Bazilika<br />

use a special spatula to form the roseshaped<br />

ice creams that pop up on every<br />

Instagram feed dedicated to Budapest.<br />

Pest V, Szent István tér 3.<br />

Omorovicza<br />

is a luxury skincare brand using the curative<br />

effects of thermal water. Their new release<br />

recharges your skin with Vitamin C for a<br />

fresh complexion. Listing, p.25.<br />

Tipton<br />

recycles old vinyl records and turns them<br />

into sunglasses. Zachary Tipton Milaskey’s<br />

brain child makes for a unique gift to take<br />

home. Listing p.21.<br />

Organic Fruit<br />

For the freshest fuit & veg head to the MOM<br />

Organic Market housing only certified organic<br />

producers. Open Sat 6:30am-1pm, Buda XII,<br />

Csörsz u.18. www.facebook.com/okopiac<br />

22 <strong>WHERE</strong> BUDAPEST I SEPTEMBER <strong>2019</strong>


SHOPS & SERVICES<br />

MANIER Founded by Anikó Nemeth in 1992, the<br />

magic ambience of this showroom combines<br />

a passion for luxury fabrics, objects, and<br />

colors with elements of fantasy. Pest VI, Dalszínház<br />

u.10. T: (+36 1) 483 1140, www.manier.<br />

hu Map B5<br />

NANUSHKA Szandra Sándor, who studied in<br />

London, combines playful cuts and lush fabrics<br />

with elegance and comfort in her designs.<br />

Pest V, Bécsi u. 3. T: (+36 70) 394 1954, www.<br />

nanushka.hu Map C5<br />

NUBU This Hungarian fashion label creates<br />

fluid, versatile pieces. Expect sophisticated,<br />

modern, and clean designs with unique cuts,<br />

comfort, and soft colors. NUBU is inspired<br />

by contemporary architecture, fine arts,<br />

and product design. Flagship store: Pest VI,<br />

Andrássy út 13. T: (+36 70) 607 4903, Map D6<br />

NUBU MOM Park shopping center: Buda XII,<br />

Alkotás u. 53. T: (+36 20) 480 1990, www.nubu.<br />

hu Map B2<br />

ONE FASHION Get to know the different Hungarian<br />

designers and styles at this multi-brand<br />

store. Pest IX, Ráday u. 9. T: (+36 20) 378 3795,<br />

www.onefashionbudapest.com Map B6<br />

OPEN SHOWROOM Serving as a showroom,<br />

creative workspace, and shop, OPEN offers<br />

modern bags, jewelry, and clothing by Hungarian<br />

designers. The shop also hosts regular<br />

workshops. Open Mon-Fri 2pm- 7pm. Pest V,<br />

Nyáry Pál utca 5. Map D5<br />

PUNCH STORE Feminine, multi-brand store in<br />

the heart of Budapest, offering contemporary<br />

women's clothing, leather bags, fine jewelry,<br />

and hats from brands like Anna Amélie, Anna<br />

Daubner, dorivisy, Lindamelinda, and Vecsei<br />

Millinery. Pest VI, Paulay Ede u. 15. T: (+36 30)<br />

386 4890, www.facebook.com/punchstorebudapest<br />

Map D5<br />

RÉKA VÁGÓ One-time dancer Réka Vágó knows<br />

how to make quality, comfortable shoes that<br />

women can wear while partying the night<br />

away. Educated at Moholy-Nagy University<br />

and London College of Fashion, the designer<br />

is one of the most recognized names in<br />

footwear. Mero Showroom: Pest VII, Kertész u.<br />

40. Open Tue-Sat 11am-8pm. www.rekavago.<br />

com Map D6<br />

SOCIÉTÉ BUDAPEST A creative space to experience<br />

the art, fashion, and gastronomy of<br />

Central-Europe. At their shop, visitors will find<br />

plenty of Central-European designers and artists.<br />

Pest V, Sas u. 16. www.soci- etebudapest.<br />

com Map D5<br />

SZPUTNYIK SHOP Vintage-clothing lovers and<br />

treasure hunters can find retro fashions and<br />

brand–new custom designs at two boutiques<br />

that serve as eclectic time capsules. www.<br />

szputnyikshop.hu. Pest VII, Dohány u.20.<br />

Map C6; Pest VI, Király u.22. Map D6<br />

THE GARDEN STUDIO This studio works as a<br />

playground, atelier, and showroom for emerging<br />

local designers. T: (+ 36 30) 848 6163. Pest<br />

VI, Paulay Ede u.18. www. thegardenstudio.<br />

hu Map D6<br />

TISZA A communist-era shoe brand revived<br />

with style and still manufactured in Hungary.<br />

www. tiszacipo.hu Pest VII, Károly krt. 1. T: (+36<br />

1) 266 3055 Map C6; WestEnd City Center: Pest<br />

VI, Váci út 1-3. T: (+36 1) 238 7505 Map F6<br />

VASS SHOES The shop offers comfortable, elegant,<br />

and enduring ready-to-wear or bespoke<br />

shoes in different styles by a legendary Hungarian<br />

shoemaker. Pest V, Haris köz 2. T: (+36 1) 318<br />

2375, www. vass-cipo.hu Map C5<br />

DESIGN SHOPS,<br />

HOME DESIGN<br />

CODE SHOWROOM An exclusive distributor of<br />

Maxalto, B&B Italia, Minotti, Knoll International,<br />

Porro, and Dedon brands in Hungary. Products<br />

from nearly 100 cutting-edge design companies<br />

are also available. Open Mon-Fri 10am-6pm, Sat<br />

10am- 2pm. Pest VI, Nagymező u. 9. T: (+36 1) 267<br />

0312, www.codeshowroom.com Map D6<br />

GOA HOME Chic home décor and accessories, including<br />

furniture, textiles, and decorative items.<br />

Open Mon-Fri 10am-6pm, Sat 10am-2pm. Pest<br />

VII, Király u. 19. www.goamama.com Map D6<br />

MAGMA This gorgeous gallery offers interior<br />

designers’ creations in mediums like glass,<br />

ceramics, and paper. Pest V, Petőfi Sándor u. 11.<br />

www.magma.hu Map D3<br />

MONO ART & DESIGN At this design shop, visitors<br />

can find notebooks, unique jewelry, and other intriguing<br />

pieces. Design: Pest V, Kossuth Lajos u. 12.<br />

www.facebook.com/monoar- tanddesign Map C6<br />

PRINTA An innovative showcase for Hungarian<br />

and global artisans, featuring independent<br />

fashions, eco-friendly accessories, and creative<br />

gifts. Pest VII, Rumbach Sebestyén u. 10. T: (+36<br />

30) 292 0329, www.printa.hu Map C6<br />

SPIRITHOME Luxury, designer home décor, and<br />

accessories from brands like ARMANI Casa and<br />

Ipe Cavalli. Pest VII, Király u. 47. T: (+36 70) 251<br />

5152, www.spirithome.hu Map<br />

FLOWERS<br />

ARIOSO Centrally located flower shop with homedesign<br />

items and a café. www.arioso.hu Pest VII,<br />

Király u. 9. T: (+36 1) 266 3555, Map C6; MOM Park:<br />

Buda XI, Alkotás u. 53. T: (+36 1) 201 0361 Map B2<br />

FLEUROP Professional flower delivery, including<br />

same-day orders. T: (+36 1) 288 0634, (+36 20)<br />

369 5553, www.fleurop.hu; e-mail: fleurop.kft@<br />

fleurop. hu<br />

FLEURT Cutting-edge contemporary flower compositions,<br />

vases, and unique small gift ideas.<br />

Pest V, Zrínyi u. 12. T: (+36 1) 321 8122, www.<br />

fleurt. hu Map D5<br />

LAURA VIRÁG Beautiful bouquets and contemporary<br />

flower arrangements are found at this<br />

delightful shop. Pest VI, Király u. 28. T: (+36 1)<br />

329 9889, www. lauravirag.hu Map D6<br />

PHILANTIA A century-old florist shop in the heart<br />

of downtown. Pest V, Váci u. 9. T: (+36 1) 266 1156,<br />

www.facebook.com/LikePhilanthia Map C5<br />

PLANTOMIME Beautiful flowers, plants, and<br />

creative bouquets for special occasions. Pest<br />

VI, Nagymező u. 60. T: (+36 30) 553 0443, www.<br />

plan- tomime.hu Map E5<br />

WILD FLOWER BAR This lifestyle-driven studio<br />

embraces seasonality and conceptualizes floral<br />

designs for events, installations, weddings, and<br />

private residences. Pest V, Vitkovics Mihály u.<br />

3-5. T: (+36 20) 364 5128, www.wildflowerbar.<br />

com Map C5<br />

MARKETS<br />

CENTRAL MARKET HALL Everything you might<br />

want, including vegetables, meat, bread,<br />

cheese, wild boar, and fresh fish is found here.<br />

Upstairs, look for Hungarian crafts and souvenirs.<br />

Open Mon 6am-5pm, Tue-Fri 6am-6pm<br />

and Sat 6am-3pm. Pest IX, Vámház krt. 1-3. T:<br />

(+36 1) 366 3300, www.piaconline.hu Map A6<br />

CZAKÓ STREET MARKET This intimate farmer's<br />

market features fresh produce, meat, and dairy<br />

products. Open Saturdays 8am- 2pm. Buda I,<br />

Czakó u. 15. Map B3<br />

FÉNY STREET MARKET Located near Széll Kálmán<br />

tér, this market is a favorite of many expats<br />

living in Budapest. It offers a wide variety of<br />

fresh produce, pastries, and baked goods.<br />

Buda II, Lövőház utca 12. www.fenyutcaipiac.<br />

hu Map E2<br />

DOWNTOWN MARKET This lesser known market<br />

hall close to Parliament is smaller than its big<br />

brother (Central Market) but is just as pretty<br />

and offers a similar range of products. Upstairs,<br />

there are a variety of restaurants, which make<br />

it an ideal spot for a quick lunch. Closed on<br />

Sundays, Pest V, Hold utca 13, www.piaconline.<br />

hu Map D5<br />

MOM BIO MARKET A haven for those who love<br />

eating healthy, this Buda open-air market only<br />

showcases certified organic producers. It has<br />

the biggest variety in town of fruits, vegetables,<br />

meat, dairy, and even cosmetics. Open only on<br />

Saturdays, 6:30am-1pm, Buda XII, Csörsz u. 18.<br />

www.facebook.com/okopiac Map B1<br />

PORCELAIN & GLASS<br />

AJKA KRISTÁLY Fine crystal pieces and stemware<br />

are available in both modern and classical designs.<br />

www. ajka-crystal.hu Pest V, József Attila<br />

u. 7. T: (+36 1) 317 8133 Map C5; Pest V, Kossuth<br />

Lajos u. 10. T: (+36 1) 328 0844 Map C6; Pest XIII,<br />

Szent István krt. 18. T: (+36 1) 340 5083 Map F5<br />

HEREND PORCELAIN World-class fine china, painted<br />

by hand. www.herend.com Pest V, József Nádor<br />

tér 11. T: (+36 1) 317 2622 Map C5; Buda I, Szentháromság<br />

u. 5. T: (+36 1) 225 1051 Map D3; Pest VI,<br />

Andrássy út 16. T: (+36 1) 374 0006 Map D6<br />

HOLLÓHÁZI Hand-painted porcelain tableware<br />

and gift items. www.hollohazi.hu Pest VII,<br />

Dohány u. 1/C. T: (+36 20) 592 5676 Map C6;<br />

Haas & Czjzek: Pest VI, Bajcsy-Zsilinszky út 23. T:<br />

(+36 1) 311 4094 Map D6<br />

ZSOLNAY Porcelain from the famous factory in<br />

the southern city of Pécs, including dinnerware,<br />

vases, and decorative items. www.zsolnay.hu<br />

Haas & Czjzek: Pest VI, Bajcsy-Zsilinszky<br />

út 23. T: (+36 1) 311 4094 Map D5<br />

WINE SHOPS<br />

BORTÁRSASÁG WINE STORE Excellent wine<br />

shop at multiple locations with friendly<br />

English-speaking staff and extensive Hungarian<br />

selections. www.bortarsasag.hu. Shopping<br />

malls inculding Allee, Árkád, Hegyvidék, Budagyöngye,<br />

MOM Park. Shops: Buda I, Batthyány<br />

u. 59. T: (+36 1) 212 2569 Map E2; Buda I, Lánchíd<br />

u. 5. T: (+36 1) 225 1702 Map C4; Pest IX, Ráday u.<br />

7. T: (+36 1) 219 5647 Map A6; Pest V, Vécsey u. 5.<br />

T: (+36 1) 269 3286 Map D5<br />

www.wheretraveler.com 23


WELLNESS<br />

“Your mind will<br />

answer most<br />

questions if you learn<br />

to relax and wait for<br />

the answer." —<br />

William Burroughs<br />

Plotting an obligatory afternoon at one of<br />

Budapest’s famous (albeit crowded) thermal<br />

baths is one way to weave a bit of relaxation<br />

into your itinerary, but if it’s a more hushed and<br />

intimate experience you crave, then book a few<br />

luxurious hours at the Mystery Hotel Budapest’s<br />

Secret Garden Day Spa. Like the spa at the Four<br />

Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace Budapest and<br />

Harmony Spa at the Aria Hotel Budapest by Library<br />

Hotel Collection, popular with both visitors and<br />

locals, this hideaway is fast making its mark on the<br />

city’s wellness scene.<br />

In District VI, the Mystery Hotel Budapest is a<br />

one-time palace built in the 19th century by the<br />

Hungarian Freemasons. With guest rooms that<br />

reference different types of Greek columns, and are<br />

dressed in either Doric, Ionian, or Corinthian style,<br />

the hotel has an Old World, magical vibe that is<br />

inspired by mystic books and films. The spa,<br />

situated on the hotel’s ground level, is no<br />

exception; its backdrop is a stunning indoor<br />

Baroque garden crowned with a glass roof.<br />

Settle in at reception, where the walls are covered<br />

in uplifting tropical paper and a dramatic<br />

chandelier hangs over the front desk, and grab a<br />

glass of lemon-scented water. Sit down in the<br />

wellness area and between the intricate tile work,<br />

the plentiful palm trees, and the sound of the<br />

fountain’s rushing water, immediately you will<br />

feel at peace.<br />

Do break the trance,<br />

though, by grabbing a<br />

fluffy golden yellow<br />

towel and venturing<br />

into the steam room,<br />

Jacuzzi, and Finnish<br />

sauna. They pave the<br />

way to one of the spa<br />

treatments, which<br />

include hard-to-resist<br />

90-minute<br />

aromatherapy<br />

massages.<br />

Facials and body rituals,<br />

including the<br />

Hypnotique deepmeditation<br />

iteration,<br />

incorporate all-natural products from Hungarian<br />

skincare guru Adrienne Feller that are also available<br />

for purchase here. On your way out, contemplate<br />

between splurging on her Rose de Luxe eye cream<br />

or Hungarian Spring scrub.<br />

Afterwards, soak up the Mystery Hotel’s enigmatic<br />

ambience for a tad longer by heading upstairs to<br />

the Great Hall and ordering a plate of smoked<br />

salmon cannelloni with vodka-ricotta espuma.<br />

Hungarian wine, citrus-scented olives, and<br />

remarkable city views at the Sky Garden, the<br />

rooftop terrace, are the perfect send-off.<br />

Podmaniczky utca 45, mysteryhotelbudapest.com<br />

24 <strong>WHERE</strong> BUDAPEST I SEPTEMBER <strong>2019</strong>


WELLNESS<br />

BEAUTY<br />

ADRIENNE FELLER This popular Hungarian brand<br />

uses aromatherapy and essential oils to create<br />

harmony and healthy skin. At the store in the<br />

MOM Park shopping center, visitors can get a<br />

personalized consultancy, to learn which products<br />

including the Rose de Luxe collection suit<br />

their skin the best. Buda XII, Alkotás u. 53. www.<br />

adriennefellerwebshop.hu Map B2<br />

JO MALONE First Hungarian store of the famous<br />

British beauty brand. Perfumes, candles, body<br />

washes, and creams are all here. Pest V, Erzsébet<br />

tér 9-10. www.jomalone.com Map C5<br />

LE PARFUM Hungary’s only master perfumer<br />

offers consultations to find your ideal aroma<br />

from myriad international brands. Pest V, Deák<br />

Ferenc u. 18. T: (+36 30) 405 0668, www.leparfum.<br />

hu Map<br />

MADISON A stylish boutique for discovering<br />

perfumes, colognes, and top-quality cosmetics<br />

and beauty products, just steps away from the<br />

Opera House. Pest VI, Andrássy út 26. T: (+36<br />

1) 269 2016, www.madisonperfumery. com<br />

Map D6<br />

METROPOLITAN Hair and grooming services<br />

in posh surroundings on a quiet street in the<br />

heart of downtown. Pest V, Aulich u. 4-6. T: (+36<br />

1) 274 8934, www.metro- politanbudapest.hu<br />

Map D5<br />

MY SPIRIT The newest luxurious Hungarian certified<br />

organic skin care line contains perfumes,<br />

products developed especially for children and<br />

babies, cleansers, rich creams, and effective<br />

serums containing the purest ingredients.<br />

www.myspirit.hu<br />

NEROLI This luxury perfumery offers one-of-akind<br />

perfumes, along with Kent brushes and<br />

the famous Diptyque candles. Pest V, Régiposta<br />

u. 19. www.parfumneroli.hu Map C5<br />

OMOROVICZA The healing properties of Hungarian<br />

waters are the backbone of this innovative<br />

skincare line, now internationally popular at<br />

upscale department stores. www.omorovicza.<br />

com Pest VI, Andrássy út 2. T: (+36 1) 302 4604.<br />

Map D5; Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace:<br />

Pest V, Széchenyi István tér 5-6. T: (+36 1) 286<br />

6000, Map D4<br />

TINAMU Located near Budapest’s premier shopping<br />

street, this luxury perfumery offers topnotch<br />

beauty brands like REN, the Ordinary,<br />

and Elemis. T: (+36 1) 328 0228. Pest V, Régiposta<br />

u. 19. www.parfumneroli.hu Map C5; Pest V,<br />

Kristóf tér 3. Map C5<br />

GOLF COURSES<br />

MAGYAR These verdant links dating back to 1911<br />

are located on a peaceful Danube isle just<br />

north of Budapest. Kisoroszi, Golf út 1. www.<br />

magyar- golfclub.hu Off Map<br />

PANNÓNIA This elegant country club outside of<br />

Budapest features an 18-hole championship<br />

facility and English- language golf lessons.<br />

Máriavölgy, near Etyek. T: (+36 22) 594 200,<br />

www.golfclub.hu Off Map<br />

SPAS<br />

AQUINCUM SPA Offering beauty treatments that<br />

incorporate the curative mud of Hévíz. Open<br />

daily 6am-10pm. Buda III, Árpád fejedelem útja<br />

94. T: (+36 1) 436 4130, www.aquincumhotel.<br />

com/hu/ spa-es-wellness Off Map<br />

BOSCOLO SPA The striking design of this deluxe<br />

facility is inspired by an Alpine ice tunnel,<br />

where lights are reflected from Swarovski<br />

crystals. It provides an ideal place to escape<br />

from everyday chaos. Pest VII, Erzsébet krt. 9-11.<br />

T: (+36 1) 886 6125, www. boscolohotels.com<br />

Map C7<br />

CONTINENTAL SPA Luxurious rooftop wellness<br />

area offering indoor and outdoor pools, saunas,<br />

and a wide variety of modern amenities. Open<br />

9am-9pm. Continental Hotel Budapest: Pest<br />

VII, Dohány u. 42-44. T: (+36 30) 914 8572, www.<br />

conti- nentalhotelbudapest.com Map C7<br />

DANUBIUS HEALTH SPA MARGITSZIGET Dayspa<br />

visitors are welcome to indulge in hot<br />

mineral thermal baths, saunas, steam rooms,<br />

hydro pools, and fitness classes. Choose from<br />

over 100 medical or pampering treatments<br />

conducted in pristine, elegant surroundings.<br />

Margaret Island. T: (+36 1) 889 4914, www.premierfitness.hu<br />

Off Map<br />

ISIS DAY SPA Luxurious treatments using ancient<br />

Roman and Turkish techniques. Body wraps,<br />

beauty treatments, and couple packages are<br />

also available. Try the rainforest shower, which<br />

combines a healing touch with dripping warm<br />

water. Open daily 10am-10pm. Pest VIII, Üllői<br />

út 14. T: (+36 1) 266 7788, www.isisdayspa.hu<br />

Map B6<br />

KEMPINSKI THE SPA Relaxing wellness center<br />

overlooking Erzsébet Square, with premium<br />

amenities and a variety of treatments inspired<br />

by the four seasons. Open daily 7am- 10pm.<br />

Kempinski Hotel Corvinus: Pest V, Erzsébet tér<br />

7-8. T: (+36 1) 429 3585, www.kempinski.com/<br />

budapest Map C5<br />

MASCULIN A fresh, exquisitely decorated gentlemen’s-only<br />

spa and day salon offering body<br />

treatments, pedicures, and manicures. Open<br />

Tue-Fri 10am-8pm and Sat noon-6pm. Pest<br />

XIII, Pozsonyi út 12. T: (+36 1) 786 4642, www.<br />

masculin.hu Map F5<br />

ROYAL SPA With a huge pool, fitness center, and<br />

full treatment services in a historic setting,<br />

the Royal Spa reigns as an elegant respite of<br />

serenity in the center of downtown. Open daily<br />

6:30am-10pm. Corinthia Hotel Budapest: Pest<br />

VII, Erzsébet krt. 43-49. T: (+36 1) 479 4650, www.<br />

corinthia.com/ budapest Map D7<br />

SPA INTERCONTINENTAL Enjoy exquisite wellness<br />

treatments and spa services, including<br />

couples’ rubdowns and Japanese shiatsu, in<br />

this modern facility. Open daily 6am-10pm.<br />

InterContinental Budapest: Pest V, Apáczai<br />

Csere János u. 12-14. T: (+36 1) 327 6427, www.<br />

budapest. intercontinental.com Map C4<br />

THE SPA AT FOUR SEASONS HOTEL GRESHAM<br />

PALACE Offering an extensive range of rejuvenating<br />

therapies, services, and treatments using<br />

the best organic products. Located on the<br />

top floor of the hotel, the spa features private<br />

wellness and treatment rooms, a sauna, steam<br />

rooms for men and women, a whirlpool, and<br />

fitness facilities. Open daily 6am-10pm. Pest<br />

V, Széchenyi tér 5-6. T: (+36 1) 268 5500, www.<br />

fourseasons.com/budapest/spa.html Map D4<br />

SWIMMING POOLS &<br />

THERMAL BATHS<br />

AQUAWORLD BUDAPEST Huge indoor-outdoor<br />

water park with giant slides, surf pool, and<br />

25-meter- long swimming pool. Ideal for a day<br />

out with children, it’s easily reachable by car<br />

or a special bus leaving regularly from Heroes’<br />

Square. Open daily 6am-10pm. Pest IV, Íves út<br />

16. T: (+36 1) 231 3760, www.aqua-world.hu<br />

Off Map<br />

CSILLAGHEGY The oldest swimming pool in<br />

Budapest, it’s built into a terraced hillside with<br />

a restaurant and separate pools for leisure and<br />

children. Buda III, Pusztakúti út 2-6. T: (+36 1) 242<br />

0754, www.csillaghegyistrand.hu Off Map<br />

GELLÉRT A turn-of-the-century spa complex<br />

adjacent to the Gellért Danubius Hotel. Mosaiccovered<br />

terraces and halls, also an outdoor<br />

pool in the summer. Open daily 6am-8pm.<br />

Buda XI, Szt. Gellért tér 1. T: (+36 1) 466 6166,<br />

www.gellertfurdo. hu Map A5<br />

KIRÁLY One of Budapest’s oldest Turkish baths,<br />

with original parts of the building dating back<br />

to the 16th century. All facilities are available<br />

to both men and women daily, with swimwear<br />

required. Open daily 9am-9pm. Buda II, Fő u. 84.<br />

T: (+36 1) 202 3688, www.kiralyfurdo.hu Map E3<br />

LUKÁCS A historic spa with a wide range of<br />

curative amenities and eight pools. Open daily<br />

6am-9pm. Buda II, Frankel Leó. u. 25-29. T: (+36<br />

1) 326 1695, www.lukacsfurdo.hu Map G3<br />

PALATINUS Located on Margaret Island, this<br />

premier summer waterpark encompasses a<br />

number of pools, including a wave pool where<br />

guests can learn how to surf, as well as water<br />

slides, sports grounds, and sun beds in the lush<br />

garden. Open in summer, daily from 9am till<br />

early evening. Margaret Island XIII. T: (+36 1) 236<br />

0040, www. palatinusstrand.hu Map G4<br />

RUDAS Hungary’s most well-known Turkish bath<br />

was built in the 16th century and showcases<br />

a stunning octagonal pool. Buda I, Döbrentei<br />

tér 9. T: (+36 1) 356 1322, www.rudasfurdo.hu<br />

Map B4<br />

SZÉCHENYI This beautiful building in City Park<br />

is the most famous and popular of Budapest’s<br />

baths, with outdoor and indoor thermal and<br />

swimming pools open year-round. Pest XIV, Állatkerti<br />

krt. 11. T: (+36 1) 363 3210, www.szechenyifurdo.hu<br />

Map G8<br />

VELI BEJ An old Turkish bath that is part of a<br />

hospital owned by the Ordo Hospitalarius. Its<br />

five thermal pools, including the one set under<br />

a gorgeous octagonal dome, are open to the<br />

public in the mornings (6am- noon) and afternoons<br />

(3pm-9pm). Buda II, Árpád fejedelem<br />

útja 7, T: (+36 1) 438 8400 Map G3<br />

YOGA & MEDITATION<br />

AMRITA YOGA CENTER Iyengar specialists<br />

focused on deepening students’ knowledge of<br />

yoga. Buda XI, Bartók Béla út 34. T: (+36 1) 786<br />

7765, www.amritajoga.hu Off Map<br />

BIKRAM YOGA Demanding and rewarding<br />

classes that balance and strengthen the body.<br />

Buda I, Hattyú u. 14. T: (+36 30) 657 7828, www.<br />

bikramyoga.hu Map E2<br />

www.wheretraveler.com 25


DINING<br />

“A party without cake<br />

is just a meeting.” —<br />

Julia Child<br />

No matter what day you walk into<br />

Plantmilkyway, the small bakery close to<br />

Central Market, you will likely be greeted<br />

by Kitti Sőtér, the energetic, young owner who is<br />

always keen to spark a friendly chat.<br />

For Sőtér, who embraces a plant-based diet,<br />

opening Plantmilkyway was an extension of<br />

her lifestyle. “Besides not eating meat or animal<br />

products, it’s also really important to me to<br />

reduce the trash that I produce in the shop and<br />

my life in general,” she says. Plantmilkyway<br />

“shows people that vegan and gluten-free<br />

desserts can be beautiful and tasty.”<br />

Indeed, they are both. Behind glass, Sőtér’s<br />

creations are artistic and elegant. There is an<br />

ethereal blueberry and blackberry mousse, a<br />

brownie with immaculate square grooves<br />

reminiscent of a waffle paired with blackcurrant<br />

jelly and hazelnut cream, and one that unites<br />

peanut cream and chocolate ganache atop a<br />

chocolate biscuit. All are sweetened with dates,<br />

coconut sugar, or agave or maple syrup.<br />

“For me, baking is an artistic expression. French<br />

pastries are rich in small details and have<br />

different textures and forms. I love to use<br />

special spices and combine flavors to create<br />

mouthwatering desserts,” Sőtér explains. “I<br />

think each type of cake has a different<br />

personality.”<br />

Prior to Plantmilkyway, Sőtér worked in other<br />

kitchens, at cafés and big hotels alike. While<br />

studying at university, she worked part-time in<br />

a coffee shop as a pastry chef, where she<br />

confirmed that baking was her passion. All<br />

office jobs in between were marred by the<br />

realization that she didn’t feel “the enjoyment,<br />

the creativity, or the buzz I have when I start to<br />

make sweets.”<br />

In the mornings, customers love beginning<br />

their day at Plantmilkyway with avocado toast<br />

and a matcha latte—with organic plant milk, of<br />

course. As the day progresses, they seek out<br />

the bright raspberry mousse-sponge cake, or<br />

the tiramisu. The most popular of the desserts,<br />

Sőtér makes it with an almond-cocoa base and<br />

coffee cream.<br />

Sőtér also whips up numerous custom cake<br />

orders, and shares recipes for the likes of<br />

lavender-lemon cookies, chocolate pudding,<br />

and basil panna cotta with strawberry dressing<br />

on her website. Give it a read. Csarnok tér 6,<br />

plantmilkyway.com<br />

26 <strong>WHERE</strong> BUDAPEST I SEPTEMBER <strong>2019</strong>


DINING<br />

COFFEE HOUSES<br />

AUGUSZT One of the famous, grand, old confectioneries<br />

of Budapest, with biscuits, cakes, and<br />

ice creams. www.auguszt.hu Open Mon-Fri<br />

9am-7pm and Sat 11am-6pm at Pest V, Kossuth<br />

Lajos u. 14-16. T: (+36 1) 337 6379 Map C6; Open<br />

Wed-Sun 10am-6pm at Buda XI, Sasadi út 190. T:<br />

(+36 1) 249 0134 Off Map<br />

ART NOUVEAU CAFÉ Small coffeehouse decorated<br />

with Old-World furniture in a distinctive Art<br />

Nouveau style. It also houses a small museum.<br />

Pest V, Honvéd u.3. T : (+36 1) 269 4622, www.<br />

magyarszecessziohaza.hu Map E5<br />

BUDAPEST BARISTAS In a great location close to<br />

the Hungarian National Museum, it’s famed for<br />

its matcha, baked goods, and a full range of specialty<br />

coffee. Open Mon-Fri 7:30am - 7pm, Sat-Sun<br />

7am-7pm, Pest V, Múzeum körút 15. Map B6<br />

CENTRÁL CAFÉ Old-fashioned splendor with<br />

fine dining and tasty pastries. Open daily 8am-<br />

11pm. Pest V, Károlyi Mihály u. 9. T: (+36 1) 266<br />

2110, www. centralkavehaz.hu Map B5-6<br />

COFFEE STAND GUTENBERG This café has created<br />

a new genre: quality coffee for the timepressed.<br />

Here, the to-go coffee and excellent<br />

pastries are served at a friendly price by even<br />

friendlier staff. Pop by when exploring this bohemian<br />

district. Pest VIII, Békési u. 1. Map B7<br />

COYOTE CAFÉ AND DELI Apart from specialty coffee,<br />

breakfast is the main attraction here. Order<br />

freshly baked pastries, croissant sandwiches, pretzels,<br />

or salads all day long, maybe splurging on<br />

craft beer, too. Buda I, Markovits Iván u. 4 Map E3<br />

DOUBLE SHOT As the name implies, a double<br />

is the way to go at this café, which now has<br />

two locations. Along with quality coffee, fresh<br />

pastries and sandwiches make Double Shot<br />

extremely popular. XIII, Pozsony út 16. Map F6<br />

ECO CAFÉ Enjoy organic coffee, tea, and healthy<br />

food, including sandwiches, salads, and vegan<br />

pastries at this welcoming, eco-conscious<br />

eatery. Whenever possible, products are fairly<br />

traded. Open Mon-Sat 7am-8pm, Sun 8am-8pm.<br />

Pest VI, Andrássy út 68. www.ecocafe.hu Map E6<br />

ÉS DELI A New York-style deli<br />

in the heart of Budapest, with<br />

specialty coffee try their own<br />

’Deli blend gourmet sandwiches,<br />

freshly-pressed juices, pastries, and<br />

muesli, complemented by homemade jams<br />

and sauces. Open Mon-Sun 7am–7pm, Pest V,<br />

Deák Ferenc utca 12-14 Map C5<br />

ESPRESSO EMBASSY Has Bean provides the base<br />

for Espresso Embassy’s caffeinated creations. With<br />

a relaxed but hip ambience, the excellent coffee<br />

is worth coming by for when visiting the nearby<br />

Basilica. Open Mon-Fri 7:30am-7pm, Sat 9am-6pm,<br />

Sun 9am– 5pm T: (+36 20) 445 0063 Map D5<br />

ELSŐ PESTI TEAHÁZ One of the best selections<br />

of tea in the city is found here. Open Mon-Fri<br />

10am-6pm and Sat 10am-2pm. Pest XIII, Katona<br />

J. u. 5. T: (+36 1) 359 3028, www.elso-pesti-teahaz.<br />

hu Map F5<br />

FEKETE Fekete that’s Hungarian for black has a<br />

shady courtyard, a blessing on hot summer<br />

days. Apart from specialty coffee, sandwiches,<br />

and breakfast, guests also love the minimalist design.<br />

Open Mon-Sat 8:30am-7pm, Sun 9am-5pm.<br />

Pest V, Múzeum körút 5. www.feketekv.hu Map C6<br />

GERBEAUD Budapest’s most famed, historic coffeehouse<br />

provides a dose of old-time elegance<br />

right in the center of town. Savor signature<br />

pastries and cakes amid the rich interior<br />

or in the summer, on the terrace prime for<br />

people-watching. Open daily 9am-9pm. Pest<br />

V, Vörösmarty tér 7-8. T: (+36 1) 429 9000, www.<br />

gerbeaud.hu Map C5<br />

KAFFEINE Well-made coffee is the reason to go<br />

to Kaffeine, where fruity espresso, flat whites,<br />

cold brew, and espresso tonics are found at<br />

the café’s three locations. Buda II, Lövőház u. 27<br />

Map E2; Buda XI, Október huszon- harmadika u.<br />

8-10. Off Map; Pest VIII, Baross u. 6. Map B6<br />

LA NUBE Both a café and tapas bar, La Nube<br />

showcases both Andalusian flavors and design<br />

in charming District XI. Order a Spanish breakfast<br />

while admiring the beautiful tiles adorning the<br />

space. In the evening, craft beer is yet another reason<br />

to linger. Buda XI, Bartók Béla út 41. Off Map<br />

MADAL One of the first specialty cafés to open<br />

in Budapest, Madal has stood for quality coffee<br />

for years, providing guests a respite from the<br />

city’s hustle & bustle. Now operating in three<br />

locations, Madal also impresses with a clean,<br />

modern design and friendly atmosphere. www.<br />

madalcafe.hu Open Mon-Fri 7:30am–7:30pm,<br />

Sat-Sun 8:30am-7:30pm. Pest XIII, Hollán Ernő<br />

utca 3. Map F5; Pest V, Alkotmány utca 4.<br />

Map E5; Pest V, Ferenciek tere 3. Map C5<br />

MASSOLIT BOOKS & CAFÉ This quiet hangout<br />

is perfect for reading English-language books<br />

while sipping direct-trade coffee or a chai<br />

latte alongside bagels and homemade cake<br />

and quiche. Open:Mon- Fri: 8.30am – 7.30pm,<br />

Sat-Sun:10am-7.30pm. Pest VII, Budapest, Nagy<br />

Diófa utca 30. T. (+36 1) 788 5292 Map C6<br />

MŰVÉSZ CAFÉ Situated on Andrássy, it is hard<br />

to miss the belle époque charm of Művész,<br />

historically a hub for artists of the Opera just<br />

across the street. Yes, there are cakes and coffee,<br />

but it’s the Biedermeier interior that truly<br />

transports you to the glory of bygone days.<br />

Open: Mon-Sat 8am-9pm, Sun 9am-9pm. Pest,<br />

VI, Andrássy út 29. Map D6<br />

MY LITTLE MELBOURNE Small but cozy, with an<br />

always-packed terrace, this little café is near<br />

Deák Ferenc Square. The house specialty is supplied<br />

by Workshop Coffee Co. but don’t miss<br />

the roster of temporary coffees that arrive every<br />

week, most from micro-roasters around Europe.<br />

T: (+36 70) 394 7002, Pest VII, Madách Imre út 3.<br />

www.mylittlemelbourne.hu Map C5-6<br />

NEW YORK CAFÉ AND SALON The New York Palace<br />

hotel is one of Budapest’s most legendary<br />

buildings, and the best way to get a glimpse of<br />

it is by hanging out at its namesake café. A favorite<br />

among Hungarian writers and journalists<br />

of yesteryear, its lavish interiors still stun. Pest<br />

VII, Erzsébet krt. 9-11. T: (+36 1) 886 6167, www.<br />

newyorkcafe.hu Map C7<br />

OPERA CAFÉ - CLOSED FOR RENOVATION -Tucked<br />

inside the iconic Miklós Ybl-designed Hungar-<br />

ian State Opera House, Opera Café makes for<br />

an equally grand pre- or post performance<br />

stop. Salads, pastas, sandwiches, wine and specialty<br />

coffee are all savored against a glamorous<br />

ambience. Pest VI, Andrássy út 22. T: (+36 1) 800<br />

9210, www. operacafe.hu Map D6<br />

RUSZWURM Charming Castle District café dating<br />

back to 1827, with a beautiful interior. Cash only.<br />

Open daily 10am-7pm. Buda I, Szentháromság u.7.<br />

T: (+36 1) 375 5284, www.ruszwurm.hu Map D3<br />

TAMP AND PULL Expert coffee in low-key, hip surroundings<br />

close to Opus Jazz Club. www.tamppull.hu<br />

Pest IX, Czuczor u. 3. Map A6; Pest XIII,<br />

Váci út 85. Off Map<br />

SZAMOS MARCIPÁN Well known confectionery<br />

there are numerous outposts of the chain for<br />

cake, ice cream, and chocolate specialties. If<br />

you want to try marzipan, this is the place.<br />

Open daily 10am-6pm. Pest V, Párizsi u. 3. T: (+36<br />

1) 317 3643, www.szam- osmarcipan.hu Map E4<br />

THE GOAT HERDER Named after the Ethiopian<br />

herder to whom we owe the gift of coffee, this<br />

cafe is out of the way, but a worthwhile visit. The<br />

coffee and homey food and pastries are top quality,<br />

making it a favorite among both locals and<br />

international students at the nearby veterinary<br />

university. Open Mon-Fri 7:30am-5:30pm, Pest VII,<br />

István u. 5. www.thegoat- herder.hu Map D8<br />

HUNGARIAN<br />

SZÁZÉVES The “100 Years Old” restaurant, is<br />

the oldest in Budapest, dating from 1831.<br />

Traditional Hungarian and international<br />

cuisine is served amid cozy, rustic décor, and<br />

there is excellent gypsy music playing in the<br />

evening. Pest V, Piarista u. 2, T: (+36 1) 230 0329,<br />

www.100evesetterem.hu, Map B5<br />

21 HUNGARIAN KITCHEN<br />

Casual, Michelin-recommended<br />

Hungarian restaurant in Buda’s<br />

Castle District, where locals go<br />

for regional flavors paired with<br />

Hungarian wines. In Buda’s medieval Castle<br />

District. Buda I, Fortuna u. 21. T: (+36 1) 202 2113,<br />

www.21restaurant.hu Map D3<br />

ALFÖLDI RESTAURANT An old-fashioned restaurant<br />

in the city center decorated with folk<br />

art. Pest V, Kecskeméti u. 4. T: (+36 1) 267 0224,<br />

www.alfoldiv- endeglo.hu Map B6<br />

BELVÁROSI DISZNÓTOROS Hungarians are<br />

famous for their sausage, and this place has<br />

a wide assortment on display, spanning<br />

bratwurst and blood sausage. With a fast-food<br />

atmosphere, it’s great for a quick sightseeing<br />

break. Open Mon-Sat 9am-7pm. Pest, V, Károlyi<br />

utca 17. www.belvarosidisznotoros. hu Map C7<br />

BOCK BISTRO One of these Michelin-recommended<br />

restaurants is set in the luxe Corinthia<br />

Hotel downtown; the other in a modern<br />

glass-and-wood building with a big terrace in a<br />

leafy part of Buda. Both serve modern Hungarian<br />

food with Hungarian wines you’ll want to<br />

sample. www. bockbisztro.hu Pest VII, Erzsébet<br />

krt. 43-49. T: (+36 1) 321 0340, Map D7 (closed<br />

on Sun); Buda XII, Szarvas Gábor út 8. T: (+36 1)<br />

376 6044, Off Map (closed on Mon and Tue).<br />

www.wheretraveler.com 27


DINING<br />

TOP TABLES<br />

DESPITE ITS SEDATE REPUTATION, BUDA<br />

IS HOME TO BUZZING RESTAURANT SCENE<br />

Bisected by the Danube River, Budapest is a city with two dramatically<br />

personalities. While many visitors to the Hungarian capital spend most<br />

of their time exploring lively Pest, Buda isn’t without its own happening<br />

hotspots. In fact, cross the Chain Bridge and you’ll find some of the city’s<br />

best restaurants amid the elegant streets surrounding Buda Castle<br />

PIERROT<br />

Set in a traditional bakery house dating<br />

back to the 13 th century, this family-run<br />

restaurant serves up classic Hungarian<br />

dishes with a contemporary spin. Be<br />

sure to dine al fresco in its courtyard<br />

during the warmer months.<br />

1014 Budapest, Fortuna utca 14..<br />

#fairytalegarden #culinarylegend<br />

www.pierrot.Hu<br />

JAMIE’S ITALIAN<br />

BUDA CASTLE<br />

If you’ve a hankering for some Italian fare,<br />

head to this outpost of the popular casual<br />

dining chain. Take your pick form a wide<br />

array of pastas, pizzas and more; there’s<br />

a kids’ menu, too.<br />

1014 Budapest, Szentháromság utca 9-11.<br />

#modernitalian #jamiestandard<br />

www.jamieoliver.com/italian/hungary<br />

BALTAZÁR GRILL<br />

Taking pride of place in this restaurant in a Josper<br />

charcoal grill, which is used to prepare various<br />

meats – everything from free-range chicken to<br />

dry-aged beef.<br />

It’s every carnivore’s idea of paradise.<br />

1014 Budapest, Országház utca 31.<br />

#gastroplayground<br />

www.baltazarbudapest.com<br />

21 HUNGARIAN<br />

KITCHEN<br />

Tuck into quintessential Hungarian<br />

cuisine, such as chicken paprika, at<br />

this laid-back bistro. There aremore<br />

unusual options on the menu too,<br />

such as catfish and chips – a modern<br />

interpretation of the classic dish.<br />

1014 Budapest, Fortuna utca 21.<br />

#hungariankitchen<br />

#withamoderntwist<br />

www.21restaurant.hu<br />

PEST-BUDA BISTRO<br />

Situated in the city’s oldest hotel<br />

(which opened over 300 years ago in 1696),<br />

this eatery dishes up affordable home-style<br />

fare, such as beef goulash and Wiener<br />

Schnitzel. Plus, its pastas and sausages<br />

are all made by hand.<br />

1014 Budapest, Fortuna utca 3.<br />

#grandmaskitchen #withloveandcare<br />

www.pest-buda.com<br />

28 <strong>WHERE</strong> BUDAPEST I SEPTEMBER <strong>2019</strong>


DINING<br />

DINING<br />

BORKONYHA The Michelin-recommended “Wine<br />

Kitchen” blends an upmarket French-style bistro<br />

with a contemporary family restaurant near the<br />

Basilica. Offering some of the best Hungarian<br />

cuisine in the city, it’s fittingly rounded out with<br />

a comprehensive wine list. On warm days, head<br />

to the shady terrace. Pest V, Sas utca 3, T: (+36 1)<br />

266 0835, www.borkonyha.hu Map D5<br />

BRASSERIE & ATRIUM This Michelin-recommended<br />

restaurant is found inside the Corinthia Hotel,<br />

offering lunch, dinner, and gourmet Sunday<br />

brunch filled with classic Hungarian dishes. Pest<br />

VII, Erzsébet krt. 43-49. T: (+36 1) 479 4850, www.<br />

corinthia.com/budapest Map E7<br />

CALLAS CAFÉ AND RESTAURANT Historic Art<br />

Deco café facing the remarkable Opera House,<br />

with Hungarian specialties and French bistro<br />

dishes. Pest VI, Andrássy út 20. T: (+36 1) 354<br />

0954, www.callascafe.hu Map D5<br />

CAFÉ KÖR Around the corner from the Basilica, its<br />

Hungarian dishes with an international twist are<br />

particularly popular with expats. Closed on Sun.<br />

Pest V, Sas u. 17. T: (+36 1) 311 0053, www.cafekor.<br />

com Map<br />

DUNACORSO A restaurant on the river promenade<br />

in Pest looking out at Castle Hill, with a kitchen<br />

turning out traditional Hungarian and international<br />

dishes. Bonus: There is an outstanding<br />

Gypsy orchestra. Pest V, Vigadó tér 3, T: (+36 1)<br />

318 6362, www.dunacorso.hu Map C5<br />

GOURMET STREET FOOD,<br />

SHARING FOOD,<br />

SERIOUS MEATS FROM<br />

THE HANDMADE<br />

CHARCOAL JOSPER GRILL<br />

Országház utca 31. Budapest // Buda Castle // www.baltazarbudapest.com // +36 1 300 7050 // hello@baltazarbudapest.com<br />

Baltazar 177x124 mm.indd 1 www.wheretraveler.com <strong>2019</strong>.07.23. 12:37:40 29


DINING<br />

<strong>WHERE</strong> EATS<br />

SPÍLER<br />

After the success of its first buzzy bistro-pub location inside<br />

District VII’s Gozsdu Udvar, as well as its adjacent sister bar<br />

Spíler Shanghai, there is another outpost of Spíler in Buda, at<br />

the base of the shopping center MOM Park in District XII. Both<br />

locations are propelled by positive energy and share similar<br />

comforting menus bolstered by a well-rounded selection of<br />

Hungarian craft beer and wine. In Gozsdu Udvar try the<br />

Mediterranean-inspired crispy halloumi salad with tabbouleh,<br />

pomegranate, and creamy yogurt or a chicken burger with<br />

smashed avocado and tomato jam. Flatbread plunked into<br />

broccoli-pea dip is the way to begin a meal in Buda, building up<br />

to grilled salmon dressed with chimichurri salsa.<br />

Pest VII, Király u. 13., T: (+36 1) 878 1320, www.spilerbp.hu<br />

Buda XII, Alkotás u. 53 T: (+36 1) 800 9218, www. spilerbuda.hu<br />

TRÓFEA GRILL<br />

Sometimes quantity does matter, and when you’re feeling<br />

particularly ravenous head to one of Trófea Grill Restaurant’s three<br />

cheerful locations in Pest and Buda for its staggering all-you-caneat<br />

buffet that is especially popular for celebrations and date<br />

nights. Begin with steak tartare, goose liver paté, or creamy<br />

mushroom soup, then pile your plate high with Hungarian<br />

specialties like chicken-stuffed Hortobágyi pancakes, catfish<br />

paprikas, and spicy pork medallions, or Burgundy-style venison<br />

steak. Of course there are plenty of desserts to choose from, too,<br />

including the Hungarian favorites somlói (sponge cake and<br />

chocolate) and poppy seed bread pudding. Beverages are also an<br />

alluring element of the fixed-price menu, so enjoy the night sipping<br />

Hungarian Törley bubbly followed by Hilltop white or red wine.<br />

Buda II, Margit krt. 2., Pest VI, Király u. 30-32., Pest XIII, Visegrádi u. 50/a<br />

www.trofea.hu<br />

FRANKÓ KITCHEN<br />

An inviting bistro-style neighborhood restaurant, Frankó Kitchen<br />

is set in Buda’s residential District II. The constantly-changing<br />

menu, embracing Hungarian ingredients, incorporates global<br />

flavors and modern techniques. One day you’ll find Hungarian<br />

potato soup with poached egg and sausage as a starter and beef<br />

cheeks with tarragon and mashed root vegetables as an entrée.<br />

On another, you can contemplate springing for the polenta cream<br />

with vegetables and Camembert or kohlrabi spaghetti with black<br />

mussels and tomato, all washed down by wines from small<br />

Hungarian producers. Desserts, like chocolate mousse melded<br />

with blackberry, and French toast paired with an apple ragout,<br />

are just as lovely.<br />

Buda II, Frankel Leò út 20, T: (+36 70) 582 0640,<br />

www.frankokitchen.hu<br />

30 <strong>WHERE</strong> BUDAPEST I SEPTEMBER <strong>2019</strong>


DINING<br />

DINING<br />

ÉMILE Owned by Gerbeaud, this restaurant is<br />

in an old villa and shady garden in an elegant<br />

residential area of Buda. Come here for refined<br />

breakfasts and lunches prepared by chefs<br />

inspired by their travels. A cake shop, café, and<br />

bar are also in the quaint villa. T: (+ 36 30) 585<br />

0602. Buda II, Orló u. 1. www.emile.hu Off Map<br />

ÉS BISZTRÓ Enjoy Hungarian and<br />

Austrian specialties served in a stylishly<br />

laidback, Michelin-recommended<br />

bistro overlooking Fashion Street.<br />

Highlights include grilled steaks and<br />

fine regional wines. Pest V, Deák Ferenc u. 12-14.<br />

www.esbisztro.hu Map C5<br />

GERLÓCZY Charming Parisian-style café and<br />

restaurant tucked into a square. Breakfast and<br />

lunch on the patio are popular during the summer.<br />

Pest V, Gerlóczy u. 1. T: (+36 1) 501 4000,<br />

www.gerloczy.hu Map C5<br />

GETTÓ GULYÁS For a fresh take on Hungarian cuisine,<br />

go to Gettó Gulyás. You’ll find all the signature<br />

dishes beef stew, chicken paprikash but prepared<br />

with contemporary twists. open: Mon-Thur 12pm-<br />

11pm, Fri-Sat:12am-12pm, Sun 12pm-10pm. Pest, VII,<br />

Wes- selényi utca 18, T.: +36203764480 Map C6<br />

NOBU BENTO<br />

BOX<br />

Special selection of<br />

Nobu’s signature<br />

dishes.<br />

LUNCH SPECIALS<br />

Every day between 12 noon and 3.30 pm<br />

SUSHI BUSINESS<br />

LUNCH<br />

Monday to Friday from<br />

12 noon to 3.30 pm<br />

Our sushi chef’s special<br />

daily sushi selection<br />

with miso soup and a<br />

scoop of ice cream.<br />

VEGETARTIAN<br />

BENTO BOX<br />

Vegetarian and<br />

gluten free lunch<br />

option.<br />

GUNDEL This elegant, Michelin-recommended<br />

restaurant in City Park is legendary, and still<br />

going strong after all these years. Visitors love<br />

to explore the world of fine Hungarian dining at<br />

such a historic spot. Pest XIV, Gundel Károly út 4.<br />

T: (+36 1) 468 4040, www. gundel.hu Map G-F8<br />

INFORMATION AND RESERVATION:<br />

NOBU Budapest<br />

Tel.: +36 1 429-42-42 | E-mail: reservation@noburestaurant.hu<br />

www.noburestaurants.com<br />

Wolf András<br />

Executive Chef<br />

Salon<br />

Restaurant<br />

New York Palace<br />

BUDAPEST 1073, Erzsébet krt. 9/11<br />

Tel.: +36 1 886 6167<br />

reservation@salonrestaurant.hu<br />

www.salonrestaurant.hu<br />

www.wheretraveler.com 31


DINING<br />

HALÁSZBÁSTYA The Danube and Pest views<br />

from its fairy tale location in a Fisherman’s<br />

Bastion tower on Castle Hill are reason enough<br />

to visit this regal restaurant serving Hungarian<br />

delicacies like wild game and Mangalica. Buda<br />

I, Fishermen’s Bastion. T: (+36 1) 201 6935, www.<br />

halaszbastya.eu Map D2<br />

KÁRPÁTIA Traditional Hungarian food is served in<br />

the colorfully decorated surroundings of a former<br />

monastery. Open since 1877, a renowned<br />

Gypsy band plays nightly. Pest V, Ferenciek tere<br />

7-8. T: (+36 1) 317 3596, www.karpatia.hu Map B6<br />

KÉHLI Savor local specialties like bone-marrow<br />

soup and pike-perch filet while being serenaded<br />

by Gypsy musicians at this century-old<br />

restaurant. Buda III, Mókus u. 22. T: (+36 1) 250<br />

4241, www. kehli.hu Off Map<br />

KÉT SZERECSEN At once a coffee house and<br />

bistro, this popular spot offers breakfast, lunch,<br />

and dinner with Mediterranean influences.<br />

The terrace is the place to be in the summer. T:<br />

(+36 1) 343 1984. Pest VI, Nagymező u. 14. www.<br />

ketszerecsen. hu Map D6<br />

KISPIAC BISZTRÓ Old-style neighborhood bistro<br />

just off Szabadság Square, serving traditional<br />

Hungarian food in a homespun atmosphere.<br />

The menu varies almost daily and ingredients<br />

come straight from the adjacent local Hold<br />

Street Market. Closed on Sun. Pest V, Hold u. 13.<br />

T: (+36 30) 430 0142, www.kispiac.eu Map D5<br />

‘‘ Eat and Run<br />

Locals love Budapest’s street food, whether it’s a carrot burger from Las<br />

Vegans, fried cheese at Paneer, or a classic lángos made at Retro Büfé.<br />

They are revved then for Food Truck Show Hungary, which roves around<br />

the country from April through September organizing pop-ups in<br />

different cities. On September 6-8 it’s Budapest’s turn for the second<br />

time this year, attracting crowds to Kincsem Park in District X. It’s worth<br />

the out-of-the-city center detour, though, because the park will be<br />

jammed with numerous colorful trucks dishing out the likes of burgers,<br />

bao, and Cubano sandwiches, with plenty of wine, beer, and pálinka to<br />

go around. This chilled-out party is also a sustainable-minded one: all the<br />

vendors will be serving their food with eco-friendly packaging and<br />

cutlery. foodtruckshow.hu<br />

‘‘<br />

MARVELOSA This romantic and cozy little<br />

restaurant near the Chain Bridge serves delicious<br />

Hungarian food, including breakfast.<br />

Buda I, Lánchíd u. 13. T: (+36 1) 201 9221, www.<br />

marvelosa.eu Map C4<br />

MÚZEUM Fine cuisine and an excellent range of<br />

Hungarian wines are served amid a beautiful<br />

old-fashioned interior near the Hungarian National<br />

Museum. It’s one of the few restaurants<br />

still providing live piano music. Closed on Sun.<br />

Pest VIII, Múzeum krt. 12. T: (+36 1) 267 0375,<br />

www. muzeumkavehaz.hu Map B6<br />

NAGY FATÁL KONYHÁJA Located near the main<br />

shopping area of Váci street, this eatery offers<br />

tra-ditional Hungarian food along with grilled<br />

meats prepared in an open kitchen. Pest VI,<br />

Kigyó utca 4, www.nagyfatal.hu Map C-B5<br />

ÚJ SIPOS HALÁSZKERT Situated in a charming<br />

Óbuda square, it offers traditional Hungarian<br />

food and live gypsy music. Buda III, Fő tér 6, T:<br />

(+36 1) 388 8745, www.ujsipos.hu Off Map<br />

PESTI DISZNÓ Michelin-recommended contemporary<br />

bistro serving fresh Hungarian cuisine<br />

and many local wines by the glass. Pest VI,<br />

Nagymező u. 19. T: (+36 1) 951 4061, www.<br />

pestidiszno.hu Map D6<br />

PEST-BUDA BISTRO A restaurant<br />

honoring Grandma's home-style<br />

kitchen for several decades, using<br />

the best ingredients with love<br />

and care. It only carries Hungarian wines rich<br />

with personality. Around the corner is a terrace,<br />

open in spring and summer, with a view<br />

towards Matthias Church. Buda I, Fortuna u. 3,<br />

T: (+36 1) 225 0377, www.pestbuda.com<br />

Map D5<br />

Bistro & Hotel & Terasz<br />

PIERROT Michelin-recommended<br />

restaurant with modern Hungarian<br />

fine cuisine, carefully selected wines, and live<br />

piano music in the heart of the Castle District.<br />

The romantic open-air winter garden is the<br />

centerpiece. Buda I, Fortuna u. 14. T: (+36 1) 375<br />

6971, www. pierrot.hu Map D2-3<br />

VÖRÖS POSTAKOCSI Since 1972,<br />

the “Red Mail Coach” restaurant<br />

offers traditional Hungarian cuisine<br />

and live Gypsy music. Pest<br />

IX, Ráday u. 15. T: (+36 1) 217 6756,<br />

www.vorospk.com Map B5<br />

INTERNATIONAL<br />

ALABÁRDOS Artful plates of goose liver, chicken<br />

paprikash, and other local specialties are<br />

served against a medieval backdrop at this<br />

centrally located, Michelin-recommended dining<br />

destination on Castle Hill. Closed on Sun.<br />

Buda I, Országház u. 2. T: (+36 1) 356 0851, www.<br />

alabardos.hu Map D3<br />

ARANY KAVIÁR Fine dining with a wide range of<br />

top-caliber caviar, an excellent seafood selection,<br />

and Czarist cuisine with French influences<br />

at this sumptuous Michelin-recommended<br />

restaurant. Buda I, Ostrom u. 19. T: (+36 1) 201<br />

6737, www.aranykaviar. hu Map E2<br />

32 <strong>WHERE</strong> BUDAPEST I SEPTEMBER <strong>2019</strong>


DINING<br />

BÁBEL Michelin-recommended fine dining<br />

restaurant in the heart of the city, focusing on<br />

seasonal, regional delicacies with the majority<br />

of its ingredients hailing from Hungary. The<br />

restaurant was also designed with Hungarian<br />

materials Pest V, Piarista köz 2. T: (+36 70) 6000<br />

800, www.babel-budapest.hu Map B5<br />

BALTAZÁR A Michelin recommended<br />

family- owned gastro<br />

playground with a warm and<br />

friendly atmosphere. Enjoy gourmet<br />

street food made with fresh<br />

ingredients, along with notable wines of the Carpathian<br />

Basin. Buda I, Országház u. 31. T: (+36 1)<br />

300 7050, www.baltazarbudapest. com Map D2<br />

BARAKA Colorful presentations of surprising<br />

dishes made with intriguing combinations of<br />

ingredients and herbs. The menu fuses Asian<br />

and French flavors and weaves in a few modern<br />

Hungarian dishes, complemented by a broad<br />

range of international and Hungarian wines.<br />

Pest V, Dor- ottya u. 6. T: (+36 1) 200 0817, www.<br />

barakarestau- rant.hu Map C4-5<br />

BIARRITZ A favorite hangout among Budapest’s<br />

artists and dignitaries, it’s close to Parliament<br />

and serves modern Hungarian and international<br />

dishes with seasonal ingredients. Pest<br />

V, Balassi Bálint u. 2. T: (+36 1) 311 4413, www.<br />

biarritz.hu Map F4<br />

BELGIAN BRASSERIE HENRI Belgian beer appropriately<br />

paired with mussels. Buda I, Bem<br />

rakpart 12. T: (+36 1) 201 5082, www. belgasorozo.com<br />

Map D4<br />

BORSSÓ BISTRO Serves upscale Hungarian<br />

dishes as well as French delicacies in a natural<br />

light-filled space. Closed on Mon. Pest V, Királyi<br />

Pál u. 14. T: (+36 1) 789 0975, www.borsso. hu<br />

Map B6<br />

CORSO Dining in style on the Danube Promenade<br />

with panoramic views over Castle Hill.<br />

Pest V, Apáczai Csere János u. 12-14. www.<br />

budapest. intercontinental.com Map C4<br />

COSTES The original Costes on Ráday Street has<br />

proudly held a Michelin star for years, and it<br />

continues to shine, serving accomplished,<br />

innovative dishes by a talented chef who uses<br />

modern techniques. Pest IX, Ráday u. 4. T: (+36<br />

1) 219 0696, www.costes.hu Map B6<br />

COSTES DOWNTOWN The newer Costes Downtown<br />

also has a Michelin star. While the food<br />

is similar, the atmosphere here is a bit more<br />

relaxed. Pest V, Vigyázó Ferenc u. 5. T: (+36 1)<br />

920 1015, www.costes.hu Map D5<br />

CSALOGÁNY 26 Tradition meets fine dining at<br />

this restaurant where the seasonal dishes,<br />

showcasing impeccable ingredients, are<br />

constantly changing. T: (+36 1) 201 7892. Buda I,<br />

Csalogány u. 26. www. csalogany26.hu Map E3<br />

DÉRYNÉ BISTRO This Michelin-recommended<br />

bistro and café dates back to 1914 with a full<br />

breakfast menu, seasonal lunch specials, and<br />

gourmet dinners in a Parisian-influenced setting.<br />

Buda I, Krisztina tér 3. T: (+36 1) 225 1407,<br />

www.bistroderyne.com Map C3<br />

DOBRUMBA Middle Eastern tastes with plenty of<br />

vegetarian options in a hip atmosphere served<br />

by friendly staff. Open Sun-Thur noon-midnight,<br />

Fri-Sat noon-1am. Pest VII, Dob utca 5. T.:<br />

(+36) 30 194 0049, www.dobrumba.hu Map C6<br />

HEMINGWAY Relax on the deck or inside the<br />

cozy interior of this serene lakeside restaurant<br />

serving local and international plates, Closed<br />

Sun after 4pm. Buda XI, Kosztolányi Dezső tér 2.<br />

T: (+36 1) 381 0522, www.hemingway-etterem.<br />

hu Off Map<br />

HILDA A classy but casual restaurant adorned with<br />

beautiful yellow and blue mosaic tiles on the<br />

walls. It’s named after an imaginary mistress of<br />

József Hild, the Hungarian neoclassicist architect,<br />

who had a profound influence on the cityscape<br />

of Budapest. Pest V, Nádor u. 5. T: (+ 36 30) 430<br />

9810, www.facebook.com/ hildapest Map D5<br />

LÁNG BISTRO & GRILL An elegant-yet-welcoming<br />

Castle Hill eatery with stellar views over downtown.<br />

Enjoy their excellent Sunday-brunch<br />

buffets. Buda I, Hess András tér 1-3. T: (+36 1)<br />

889 6600, www. hilton.com Map D3<br />

KIOSK Surrounded by exposed brickwork and<br />

panoramic riverfront views, diners at this spacious<br />

hotspot enjoy creative modern meals in<br />

a laidback setting. Live DJs and great cocktails<br />

Grandma’s kitchen<br />

with love and care<br />

Traditional dishes are turned out<br />

with the utmost love and care.<br />

brEakfast - dinner - lunch<br />

Pest-Buda Bistro<br />

1014 Budapest, Fortuna utca 3.<br />

+36 (1) 225 0377<br />

hello@pest-buda.com<br />

PestBuda 177x124 mm 4.indd 1 www.wheretraveler.com <strong>2019</strong>.07.23. 11:38:46 33


DINING<br />

keep evenings lively. Pest V, Március 15 tér 4.<br />

T: (+36 70) 311 1969, www.kiosk-budapest.hu<br />

Map B5<br />

KOLLÁZS - BRASSERIE & BAR Michelin-recommended<br />

restaurant in the Jugendstil-style<br />

Gresham Palace that houses the Four Seasons<br />

hotel. Magnificent view of the riverfront with<br />

Chain Bridge and Castle Hill. Pest V, Széchenyi<br />

tér 5. T: (+36 1) 268 6000, www.fourseasons.<br />

com/buda- pest Map D4<br />

IGUANA BAR AND GRILL A Tex-Mex haven with<br />

homemade burritos, spicy salsas, addictive<br />

chips, and frozen Margaritas in a classic downtown<br />

cantina popular with expats. Open daily<br />

11:30am- midnight. Pest V, Zoltán u. 16. T: (+36 1)<br />

331 4352, www.iguana.hu Map D5<br />

KŐLEVES Hotspot in the heart of the Jewish<br />

district. The restaurant serves filling Hungarian<br />

cuisine with Jewish specialties such as baked<br />

beans and goose leg. Don’t miss the adjacent<br />

garden bar, where people hang out for hours<br />

over beer, wine, and pub food. Pest VII, Kazinczy<br />

u. 41. T: (+36 20) 213 5999, www.koleves.<br />

com Map C7<br />

M. RESTAURANT Ever-changing menu of Hungarian-inspired<br />

fresh foods. Pest VII, Kertész u. 48. T:<br />

(+36 1) 322 3108, www.metterem.hu Map D7<br />

MÁK BISTRO A polished, Michelin-recommended<br />

hangout for high-quality Scandinavian-inspired<br />

cuisine served without pretension. Seasonal<br />

dishes are created with artistic flair and paired<br />

with extraordinary Hungarian wines. Closed on<br />

Mon. Pest V, Vigyázó Ferenc u. 4. T: (+36 30) 723<br />

9383, www.mak.hu Map D4<br />

MANNA LOUNGE A buzzing restaurant set atop<br />

the tunnel running under Castle Hill, with cool<br />

music and excellent wines. Closed on Sat and<br />

Sun. Buda I, Palota út 17. T: (+36 20) 999 9188,<br />

www.mannal- ounge.com Map C3<br />

MAZEL TOV An upscale ruin pub/restaurant<br />

showcasing Middle Eastern flavors. The highlight<br />

is the gorgeous garden. Pest VII, Akácfa u.<br />

47. T: (+36 70) 626 4280, www.facebook. com/<br />

mazeltovbp Map C7<br />

MEZZO MUSIC RESTAURANT Hungarian food<br />

with international twists grace the menu at this<br />

family-run Art Deco eatery that entices with<br />

intimate live music performances. Buda XII,<br />

Maros u. 28. T: (+36 1) 356 3565, www.mezzorestaurant.hu<br />

Map E1<br />

OLIMPIA There is no paper menu at this quirky<br />

fine dining establishment. Instead, a small<br />

number of constantly changing dishes are<br />

written on a board, featuring ingredients that<br />

are personally delivered by farmers. Ideal for<br />

the culinary curious, all dishes here, served in<br />

a tasting-menu format, are a surprise. Pest VII,<br />

Alpár u. 5. T: (+36 1) 321 0680, www.alparutca5.<br />

hu Map D9<br />

ONYX One of the few restaurants with a Michelin<br />

star, this place is glamorously theatrical. Precise,<br />

highly skilled cooking results in Hungarian dishes<br />

with a modern twist. Closed on Sun, booking<br />

absolutely essential. Pest V, Vörösmarty tér<br />

7-8. T: (+36 30) 508 0622, www. onyxrestaurant.<br />

hu Map C5<br />

PETRUS Michelin-recommended friendly neighborhood<br />

bistro where Budapest meets Paris<br />

in both food and ambience. Cooking is rustic,<br />

with bold flavors and a homely touch. Its outof-the-way<br />

location only adds to the charm.<br />

Closed on Mon. Pest IX, Ferenc tér 2-3, T: (+36 1)<br />

951 2597, www.petrusrestaurant.hu Off Map<br />

PRESIDENT This Michelin-recommended restaurant<br />

atop the hotel of the same name is the<br />

only place with a full view onto the magnificent<br />

Jugendstil roof of the Postal Savings Bank,<br />

designed by Ődön Lechner. Pest V, Hold u. 3-5,<br />

T: (+36 1) 373 8200, www.hotelpresident.hu<br />

Map D5<br />

ROBINSON A romantic location on a tree-lined<br />

pond in City Park. Come for a light lunch or a<br />

dinner that promises a Latin guitar serenade.<br />

Pest XIV, in City Park. T: (+36 1) 422 0222, www.<br />

robinsonrestaurant. hu Map F8<br />

SPÍLER BISZTRÓ Relaxed joint<br />

offering Hungarian classics and<br />

great street food in buzzing<br />

Gozsdu Udvar. The place morphs into a bar in<br />

the evening, offering a wide selection of Hungarian<br />

craft beer, wines, and spirits. On buzzy<br />

weekend nights, a DJ spins records. Open:<br />

Mon-Sun 8am -2am. Pest, VII, Király utca 13.,<br />

Gozsdu udvar T.: (+361) 878 1320 Map C6<br />

SPÍLER BUDA After two popular<br />

hangouts in downtown’s<br />

Gozsdu Udvar, Spíler had set<br />

foot on the Buda side. This bistropub offers<br />

hand-crafted burgers, pizzas, superfood dishes,<br />

along with an impressive steak and wine selection.<br />

Buda XII, Alkotás u. 53. www.spilerbuda.<br />

hu Off Map SPINOZA CAFÉ A cozy, romantic,<br />

beautifully traditional Hungarian restaurant<br />

with a Jewish touch. Live piano music nightly<br />

and klezmer shows every Friday evening. Pest<br />

VII, Dob u. 15. T: (+36 1) 413 7488, www.spinozacafe.hu<br />

Map C6<br />

SPOON CAFÉ & LOUNGE Riverboat restaurant<br />

docked on the Danube Promenade offering<br />

international cuisine and panoramic Budapest<br />

riverfront views. Pest V, moored on the Pest riverbank<br />

by the Chain Bridge. T: (+36 1) 411 0933,<br />

www.spooncafe.hu Map C4-5<br />

TAVERNA DIONYSOS Greek appetizers, charcoal-<br />

grilled meats, and seafood are served<br />

alongside Greek wines and panoramic views of<br />

Gellért Hill. Pest V, Belgrád rkp. 16. T: (+36 1) 318<br />

1222, www.dionysos.hu Map B5<br />

TIGRIS This elegant, Michelin-recommended<br />

spot serves only the freshest ingredients and<br />

finest cuts of meats. Closed on Sun, Pest V,<br />

Mérleg u. 10. T: (+36 1) 317 3715, www.tigrisrestaurant.hu<br />

Map C-D5<br />

TRÓFEA GRILL RESTAURANTS Eat and drink as<br />

much as you like for a fixed price, at three locations<br />

in Buda and Pest, www. trofea.hu Buda II,<br />

Margit krt. 2. T: (+36 1) 438 9090 Map F4; Pest<br />

VI, Király u. 30-32. T: (+36 20) 999 8797 Map C6;<br />

Pest XIII, Visegrádi u. 50/A. T: (+36 1) 270 0366<br />

Off Map<br />

VINTAGE GARDEN This romantic Provencal-style<br />

bistro is a haven amid the area’s boisterous<br />

bars. Pest VII, Dob u. 21. T: (+36 30) 790 6619,<br />

www.facebook. com/vintagegardenbudapest<br />

Map C6<br />

ZELLER BISZTRÓ Family-run Zeller is a favorite<br />

among locals and visitors. The atmosphere is<br />

relaxed and welcoming, beginning with sips<br />

of gratis elderflower sparkling wine. Open Tue-<br />

Sun 12pm- 12am. T: (+36) 30 651 0880. Pest V,<br />

Hercegprímás u 18., Map D5<br />

AMERICAN, BRITISH<br />

JOHN BULL SPORT PUB This popular<br />

restaurant offers full English breakfasts<br />

and ale on tap. Watch the games here.<br />

Pest V, Apáczai Csere János u. 17. T: (+36<br />

1) 338 2168, www.johnbullsportpub. hu<br />

Map C4<br />

HARD ROCK CAFE Legendary American restaurant<br />

with rock ’n’ roll artifacts on the walls and<br />

plump burgers and barbecue on the menu.<br />

Pest V, Deák Ferenc u. 3-5 (at Vörösmarty tér).<br />

www.facebook. com/hardrockcafebudapest<br />

Map C5<br />

ASIAN<br />

NOBU Michelin-recommended outpost of the<br />

Nobu restaurant empire. It features signature<br />

dishes like yellowtail sashimi with jalapeno and<br />

Alaskan black cod with miso. Kempinski Hotel<br />

Corvinus: Pest V, Erzsébet tér 7-8. T: (+36 1) 429<br />

4242, www.noburestaurants. com/ budapest<br />

Map C5<br />

SPÍLER SHANGHAI Inspired by<br />

the 1930s in Shanghai, this bar<br />

and bistro offers a wide variety<br />

of cocktails and delicacies with an Asian twist<br />

in a rustic, industrial setting. Pest VII, Király u. 13.<br />

T: (+36 1) 878 1309, www.spilerbp.hu/shanghai<br />

Map C6<br />

FRENCH<br />

ARAZ Michelin recommended. The restaurant<br />

is part of the Zara Intercontinental hotel in<br />

the Jewish Quarter and offers Hungarian and<br />

French cuisine amid the elegant Art Nouveau<br />

ambience of a former bath house. There are<br />

also dinners with folk music and dancing on Friday<br />

evenings. Pest VII, Dohány u. 42-44. T: (+36<br />

1) 815 1100, www.araz.hu Map C7<br />

LA PERLE NOIR Michelin-recommended sophisticated<br />

restaurant inside the Mamaison hotel<br />

that draws upon French and Hungarian traditions<br />

on the menu. Pest VI, Andrássy u.111, T:<br />

(+36 1) 483 1355, www.laperlenoire.hu Map F7<br />

PARIS BUDAPEST Michelin-recommended<br />

French haute cuisine and Hungarian specialties<br />

prepared with a Gallic flavor. Pest V, Széchenyi<br />

tér 2. T: (+36 1) 235 5600, www.parisbudapest.<br />

hu Map D6<br />

ITALIAN &<br />

MEDITERRANEAN<br />

IL TERZO CERCHIO Urban Italian eatery with<br />

exposed oven and brick ceilings, specializing in<br />

hand-tossed pizza. Pest VII, Dohány u. 40. T: (+36<br />

1) 354 0788, www.ilterzocerchio.hu Map C7<br />

34 <strong>WHERE</strong> BUDAPEST I SEPTEMBER <strong>2019</strong>


DINING<br />

JAMIE'S ITALIAN BUDA<br />

CASTLE The famous British<br />

chef’s first restaurant in<br />

Central-Europe, located in the heart of the<br />

historic Buda Castle district. The restaurant is<br />

spacious and full of light, the perfect place to<br />

enjoy a meal with friends or family, or stop in<br />

for a drink at the end of the day. The menu is<br />

packed with Italian classics, including antipasti,<br />

pizza, and tiramisu. Buda I, Szentháromság utca<br />

9-1, T: (+36 1) 800 9212, www. jamieoliver.com/<br />

italian/hungary Map D3<br />

JAMIE OLIVER’S PIZZERIA<br />

BUDAPEST Located in the<br />

heart of the party district, in<br />

Gozsdu Udvar, this is the first<br />

pizzeria in the Jamie Oliver empire. The fashionable<br />

restaurant offers thin, hand-stretched<br />

pizzas topped with quality ingredients, as well<br />

as salads and pastas. Pest VII, Király u. 13. www.<br />

jamiespizzeria.hu Map C6<br />

KRIZIA Elevated but homey dishes, attentive<br />

service, and a cozy atmosphere make Krizia a<br />

go-to when Italian cravings strike. Open Mon-<br />

Sat noon-3pm and 6:30pm-midnight. Pest VI,<br />

Mozsár u. 12. T.: (+36 1) 331 8711, www. ristorantekrizia.hu<br />

Map D6<br />

JEWISH & KOSHER<br />

HANNA Orthodox kosher restaurant. Traditional<br />

Jewish dishes including cholent and gefilte fish,<br />

Fri- day dinner. Mon-Thu 9am-10pm, Fri 9am-6pm,<br />

Sat noon-10pm, Sun 9am-10pm. Pest VII, Dob u. 35.<br />

T: (+36 1) 342 1072, www.koserhanna.hu Map C6<br />

ROSENSTEIN One of Budapest’s most popular<br />

Jewish restaurants in a hidden-away corner<br />

near Keleti railway station. Open Mon-Sat<br />

noon-11pm. Pest VIII, Mosonyi u. 3. T: (+36 1) 333<br />

3492, www. rosenstein.hu Map C8<br />

SPANISH<br />

PATA NEGRA Great tapas, cheese, and Spanish<br />

wine make this a hit with the locals. www.<br />

patanegra.hu Pest IX, Kálvin tér 8. T: (+36 1) 215<br />

5616 Map B6; Buda II, Frankel Leó u. 55. T: (+36 1)<br />

438 3227 Off Map<br />

VAS MANCI Cozy and friendly, this low-key restaurant<br />

skillfully combines Spanish and Middle<br />

Eastern flavors. Open: Mon-Sun 11am-10 pm.<br />

Pest, VIII Vas utca 3. T.: (+36)208008953 Map C6<br />

VEGETARIAN<br />

DELI’S VEGAN Close to Allee shopping center in<br />

Buda, this restaurant was founded by a former<br />

yoga instructor and features dishes like tikka<br />

masala, basmati rice, and chestnut-chocolate<br />

cake Open Mon-Fri 11am- 6pm. Buda XIV,<br />

Szabolcska Mihály u. 3. Off Map<br />

ÉDENI VEGÁN One of the first vegan restaurants<br />

in the city, this restaurant has offered its juices,<br />

soups, cakes, and other hearty dishes for<br />

over 10 years at the foot of Castle Hill. Open<br />

Mon-Sun 8am-8pm. Buda I Iskola u. 31. www.<br />

edenivegan.hu Map E3<br />

VEGA CITY Vegetarian fast food near the Hungarian<br />

National Museum, offering fried vegetables,<br />

stews, and salads for a quick bite. Pest V,<br />

Múzeum krt. 23-25, www. vegacity.hu Map B6<br />

VEGAN LOVE Bright, vegan fast food joint serving<br />

creations like lentil burgers and chile hot dogs,<br />

as well as salads and fries washed down with<br />

natural cola. Buda XI, Bartók Béla út 9. www.<br />

veganlove.hu Off Map<br />

WINE TASTING<br />

ANDANTE WINE BAR In this heritage riverfront<br />

building they serve only Hungarian wines, paired<br />

with local delicacies. Guests can enjoy it all while<br />

looking out onto the Danube and beyond. Buda<br />

I, Bem rkp.2. T: (+36 1) 415 2677, Map C4<br />

BALTAZÁR WINE BAR Adjacent to the restaurant is<br />

the wine bar, featuring an impressive collection<br />

around 200 different varieties of Central European<br />

wines. Buda I, Országház u. 31. T: (+36 1)<br />

300 7050, www. baltazarbudapest.com Map D2<br />

BORLABOR Brick-lined wine cellar serving Hungarian<br />

and Transylvanian cuisine prepared with<br />

contemporary touches. As a retro touch, food<br />

is presented on old-fashioned wooden plates.<br />

Pest V, Veres Pálné u. 7. T: (+36 1) 328 0382, www.<br />

borlaboretterem.hu Map B6<br />

BORBÍRÓSÁG Choose from more than 60 Hungarian<br />

wines served by the glass or the bottle.<br />

Frequent wine tastings also introduce visitors<br />

to Hungarian selections. Closed on Sundays.<br />

Take a shot for a free shot!<br />

hungarianhellkitchen.com<br />

Pest IX, Csarnok tér 5. T: (+36 1) 219 0902, www.<br />

borbirosag.com Map A6<br />

DOBLÓ BOR & BÁR A place to relax and talk for a<br />

few hours over a glass of fine wine and a meatand-cheese<br />

platter. It’s a much calmer alternative<br />

to the surrounding raucous bars, but no<br />

less lively when there’s live music. Pest VII, Dob<br />

u. 20. T: (+36 20) 398 8863, www.budapestwine.<br />

com.hu Map C6<br />

DROP SHOP As well as Hungarian and international<br />

wines, this expat-popular place specializes<br />

in Champagne. Tastings are accompanied<br />

by tapas. Pest V, Balassi Bálint u. 27. T.:(+36 30)<br />

345 3739, www.dropshop.hu Map F4<br />

DIVINO Michelin-recommended wine bar right<br />

beside the Basilica with a superb selection of<br />

Hungarian wines. Simple, rustic dishes are also<br />

available. In the summer, the terrace is packed<br />

with after-work crowds. No reservations possible.<br />

Pest V, Szent István tér 3. T: (+36 70) 935<br />

3980, www.divinoborbar.hu Map D5<br />

KADARKA – Low-key from the outside, inside there<br />

is an extensive list of Hungarian wines, a professional<br />

staff, and tasty dishes. Pest, VII, Király u. 42.<br />

T: (+36 1) 266 5094, www.kadarkabar.hu Map D6<br />

ST. ANDREA WINE & SKYBAR Marvel at the<br />

beautiful city center panorama while sipping<br />

wines made at the renowned St. Andrea winery<br />

in Eger. Pest V, Váci u. 1. T: (+ 36 30) 300 3930,<br />

www.standreaskybar.hu Map C5<br />

Hungarian traditions<br />

and tastes in the<br />

heart of Budapest<br />

If you are a lover of grilling,<br />

if you have love the smell and<br />

also the presentation of the<br />

special charcoal grilled food<br />

tasting, you can find it all here!<br />

Make yourself at home!<br />

1052 Budapest,<br />

Kígyó street 4.<br />

(near Ferenciek tere)<br />

+36 1 787 8736<br />

Open: M-Su:<br />

11:00-23:00<br />

www.wheretraveler.com 35


DAYTIME TRANSPORT<br />

04:30–23:50<br />

ESSENTIALS<br />

TICKET INFORMATION<br />

TOURIST INFO POINTS Official info points can be<br />

found at traffic hub Deák square (Pest V., Sütő utca<br />

2. Map C5); in the Buda Castle (Buda I, Tárnok utca<br />

15. Map D3 9am-6pm), and next to City Park, at<br />

the Ice Rink (Pest XIV, Olof Palme sétány 5. 9am-<br />

7pm) and at both terminals of Liszt Ferenc Airport,<br />

open 8 and 10 am to 10 pm. You can purchase the<br />

Budapest Card at all of these locations. The card<br />

gives you free public transport, access to museums<br />

for 27 days and added discounts to guided<br />

tours, spas, restaurants, and other attractions. Find<br />

more information online: www.budapestinfo.hu<br />

PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION Budapest has an extensive<br />

public transportation system with buses,<br />

trams, trolleys, four metro lines, a cogwheel train,<br />

funicular, suburban railway lines and boats covering<br />

the city. Most lines operate daily from 4am to<br />

about midnight, trams 4 and 6 operate all night<br />

as do several night buses. Tickets are available at<br />

ticket machines at all metro stops and traffic hubs.<br />

Unless you buy a pass, single tickets are valid<br />

for a single ride, not a time period – if you know<br />

you’ll take several rides, your best option is to get<br />

a 24-hour or 72-hour pass, valid on all modes of<br />

transport. You need to validate your tickets when<br />

you enter a metro station, or on overground<br />

vehicles in orange validators. Ticket inspection is<br />

carried out by personal staff wearing armbands<br />

or badges. Fines can be paid on the spot or alternatively<br />

at the Public Transport Office, check their<br />

official website for details: www.bkk.hu/en<br />

GETTING AROUND<br />

TRAIN STATIONS The four main train stations<br />

(“pályaudvar”) are Nyugati (western, Map E5);<br />

Keleti (eastern, Map D8); Déli (southern, Map D2),<br />

and Kelenföldi (Off Map). All are accessible by<br />

metro, and the first three stations have booths for<br />

international tickets where you can by your ticket<br />

in person.<br />

TAXIS Budapest has a regulated taxi network:<br />

licensed taxis are yellow and work with standard<br />

prices. Estonian taxify is also available, and operates<br />

at the standardized rate: meters start from<br />

700 HUF (~2 EUR) and the price is 300 HUF (~1<br />

EUR) per kilometer.<br />

BICYCLE RENTALS Budapest lends itself to cycling<br />

with the flatness of Pest and slightly hilly but<br />

picturesque Buda. Tens of thousands of locals<br />

commute every day on two wheels, due to which,<br />

and the consistent efforts of Hungarian Cyclists’<br />

Club, the infrastructure has improved a lot in<br />

recent years. Editor’s choice: RideKálmán bikeshop<br />

right next to iconic ruinbar Szimpla offers excellent<br />

service for renting and servicing bikes. Their<br />

motto: ”Life is too short to ride a shit bike<br />

PUBLIC: The unmissable green bikes (BUBI) provided<br />

by MOL belong to the city’s public transport<br />

system: you need to register and purchase tickets<br />

at the public transport company BKK. The first half<br />

hour is for free, but make sure you are conscious<br />

of the clock, as long rides may run the bill high.<br />

COMPANIES: Donkey Republic: www.donkey.bike<br />

Yellow Zebra: +36 20 929-7506, Pest VI, Lázár utca<br />

16. Map D6 – www.yellowzebrabudapest.com<br />

Ride Kálmán: +36 20 248 1446, Pest VII, Kazinczy u.<br />

12 Map C6 – www.facebook.com/ridekalman<br />

BOAT SERVICES Budapest has several boat lines<br />

within the public transport system, not the fastest<br />

but maybe the cutest way of getting about. The<br />

main ports are at Batthány tér (Map E4) Akadémia<br />

(D4) and Vigadó (Map C5). The time schedule<br />

subject to change depending on weather and<br />

water level conditions. See the official webpage<br />

for information, www.bkk.hu.<br />

AIRPORT TRANSPORTATION Liszt Ferenc Airport<br />

has two international terminals: 2A and 2B.<br />

See www.bud.hu/english for complete airport<br />

information.<br />

PUBLIC: Bus 100E gives you a straight ride downtown,<br />

for a fee double the price of single tickets.<br />

Bus 200E takes you to the end of metro line 3 for<br />

a normal price. It’s a good idea to have HUF in<br />

cash, as the queuing can get chaotic, and ticket<br />

vending machines clogged up.<br />

TAXI: Főtaxi is the authorised company to serve<br />

the airport from kerbisde pick-ups. Rates to<br />

dwontown locations come usually come to<br />

8-9000 HUF (25-30 EUR).<br />

SHUTTLE: miniBUD offers door-to transfer, you<br />

can order online. The bigger your group the<br />

lower the price, so it’s worth ordering together.<br />

A trip downtown for one person costs about 17<br />

EUR one way. Order at: www.minibud.hu/en, +36<br />

1 550 0000<br />

36 <strong>WHERE</strong> BUDAPEST I SEPTEMBER <strong>2019</strong>


ESSENTIALS<br />

MEET<br />

A LOCAL<br />

Every issue we chat with a different Budapest<br />

insider. This month it’s Dániel Német, an economist<br />

and environmental engineer who, as the cofounder<br />

of Night Mayor Budapest, is an advocate<br />

for sustainable, quality nightlife.<br />

Tell us about your interesting position as Budapest’s night ambassador.<br />

It’s essentially understanding how Budapest, its night-time economy, and culture work<br />

after the sun has set, to gather relevant insights in order to assist decision makers,<br />

entrepreneurs, and researchers. We’ve been building a network of nightlife doers and<br />

influencers in the past two years to improve the quality of nightlife both by educating<br />

consumers and producers. I also represent Budapest at European conferences, events,<br />

and in nightlife advocacy networks.<br />

What do you think makes Budapest's nightlife scene so compelling?<br />

Budapest nightlife is small but sexy as it caters to everyone. From jazz to techno, from<br />

board games to bath culture, from Michelin-starred restaurants to new-age street food,<br />

the city literally packs everything into a small central area, which can be done entirely<br />

on foot if someone visits the city for a couple of days. Summertime almost drags out all<br />

year long now, and we have an endless stream of festivals, from large ones like Sziget,<br />

to small but high-end ones like Kolorado, but also subcultural and boutique ones,<br />

which are just pearls to discover if you are into that. The city is also doing extremely<br />

well the past few years in fashion and design, classical music, and contemporary highculture<br />

performances.<br />

If you have an out-of-town guest, is there one bar that you would<br />

absolutely take them to?<br />

We have been working a lot with the Night Embassy of Budapest and we collected 60<br />

must-see spots of the city that we honestly believe make Budapest what it is today.<br />

Some of the bars include Telep-Art Galéria, Bar Pharma, and Pontoon. My personal<br />

recommendation is Ambient Bar, a small, cozy club that plays electronic music.<br />

How do you spend your days off in Budapest?<br />

I’m never bored. I try to go to as many interesting and edgy cultural events as I can,<br />

but I also enjoy a weekend outside in nature, away from the never sleeping city lights.<br />

USEFUL INFORMATION<br />

LOST AND FOUND For articles lost on public<br />

transportation, go to Pest VII, Akácfa u. 18. +36 1<br />

258 4636 Map C7<br />

CENTRAL EMERGENCY HOTLINE: 112<br />

ENGLISH SPEAKING POLICE HOTLINE:<br />

+361438-8080<br />

24 HOUR PHARMACIES Will dispense routine<br />

medications without a prescription. Pest VI, Teréz<br />

körút 41 Map E6, +36 1 311 4439, Buda XII, Alkotás<br />

út 1/B, +36 1355 4691 Map D2<br />

POLICE CRIME PREVENTION Like in any major<br />

metropolis, visitors should take precautions to<br />

protect themselves from criminal activity. Do not<br />

leave belongings unattended, or leave valuables<br />

in your car, and keep an eye on your bags. In<br />

case you do become a crime victim, please<br />

report the incident to the nearest police station<br />

as soon as possible, or go directly to the nearest<br />

hotel, where the staff can help you file a report<br />

promptly with the proper authorities closest to<br />

the scene of the crime<br />

POST OFFICES The post office at Keleti Railway<br />

Station (Map D8) is open 24-7.<br />

TELEPHONE CODES Budapest landlines start with<br />

+36 1, mobile operators +36 20, +36 30 or +36 70<br />

TOBACCO & ALCOHOL since a government<br />

decree of 2013 only designated tobacco shops,<br />

or „Nemzeti Dohánybolt” are authorised to sell tobacco<br />

products. Look out for a design combining<br />

brown with the national colors. Smoking is not<br />

allowed in bars and restaurants except for designated<br />

areas. Purchasing alcohol varies according<br />

to district, but most shops will sell the full array<br />

of alcoholic products until closing time. Officially<br />

alcohol consumption is forbidden in public, a rule<br />

whicj often ges unobserved.<br />

www.wheretraveler.com 37


Sion lépcső<br />

Alkotás u.<br />

Győri út<br />

D<br />

Alsóhegy u.<br />

Elvis Presley tér<br />

Vajkay u.<br />

Baba u.<br />

Ali u.<br />

Vend u.<br />

Szeréna út<br />

Kol<br />

Cserfa u. Lukács u.<br />

Mar<br />

MAPS<br />

Gárdonyi Géza út<br />

Gábor Áron köz<br />

Fillér u.<br />

Detrekő u.<br />

Herman Ottó út<br />

Határőr út<br />

Stromfeld Aurél út<br />

Fátra tér<br />

Törökvész lejtő<br />

Endrődi Sándor u.<br />

Présház u.<br />

Detrekő u .<br />

Kopogó lépcső<br />

Németvölgyi út.<br />

Tövis u.<br />

Trombitás út<br />

Álom u.<br />

Tusnádi u.<br />

Nárcisz u.<br />

Gaál József út<br />

Kissvábhegyi út<br />

Ruszti út<br />

Határőr út<br />

Galántai u.<br />

Korompai u.<br />

Csopaki u.<br />

Alma u.<br />

Lévay u.<br />

Lorántffy Zsuzsanna út<br />

Acsády Ignác u.<br />

Határőr út<br />

Határőr út<br />

Goldmark Károly u.<br />

Törpe u.<br />

Balogvár u.<br />

Székács u.<br />

Búzavirág u.<br />

Temes u.<br />

Maros u.<br />

Agárdi útHollósy Simon u.<br />

Szolyva u.<br />

Levendula u. Margaréta u.<br />

Sashegyi út<br />

Zólyomi lépcső<br />

Acsády Ignác u.<br />

Jagelló út<br />

Vas Gereben u.<br />

Lejtő út<br />

Acsády Ignác u.<br />

Orbánhegyi út<br />

Szendi u.<br />

Szendi árok<br />

Kiss János altábornagy u.<br />

Stromfeld Aurél út<br />

1<br />

21 HUNGARIAN<br />

KITCHEN<br />

Buda I, Fortuna u. 21.<br />

T: (+36 1) 202 2113<br />

www.21restaurant.hu<br />

2<br />

PIERROT<br />

Buda I, Fortuna u. 14.<br />

T: (+36 1) 375 6971<br />

www.pierrot.hu<br />

Városmajor u.<br />

3<br />

Bíró u.<br />

ÉS BISZTRÓ<br />

Pest V,<br />

Deák Ferenc u. 12-14.<br />

Abos u.<br />

T: (+36 1) 429 3990<br />

www.esbisztro.hu<br />

4<br />

Zsámbéki u.<br />

Zeke u.<br />

Istenhegyi út<br />

Németvölgyi út<br />

Apor Vilmos tér<br />

Vas Gereben u.<br />

Szánkó u.<br />

Sashegyi út<br />

Sasfiók u.<br />

Bogár utca<br />

Árkay Bertalan sétány<br />

Maros u.<br />

38 <strong>WHERE</strong> BUDAPEST I SEPTEMBER <strong>2019</strong><br />

Karap utca<br />

Tóth Lőrinc u.<br />

Hollósy Simon u.<br />

Szamos u.<br />

Kiss János altábornagy u.<br />

Tájék u.<br />

Muraközi u.<br />

Mák u.<br />

Szpáhi u.<br />

Kapor u.<br />

Ervin utca<br />

Bég u.<br />

Tövis u.<br />

Balogvár u.<br />

Érmelléki u.<br />

Trombitás út<br />

Szilágyi Erzsébet fasor<br />

SPÍLER BUDA<br />

Buda XII,<br />

Alkotás u. 53 (MOM Park)<br />

T: (+36 1) 800 9218<br />

www.spilerbuda.hu<br />

Bistro & Hotel & Terasz<br />

5<br />

Böszörményi út<br />

Gébics utca<br />

Vércse u.<br />

PEST-BUDA BISTRO<br />

Buda I, Fortuna u. 3.<br />

T: (+36 1) 225 0377<br />

www.pest-buda.com<br />

Csemegi u.<br />

V<br />

ércse köz<br />

Alvinci út<br />

Ráth György u.<br />

Székács u.<br />

Tóth Lőrinc u.<br />

Ügyész u.<br />

Meredek u.<br />

Szpáhi u.<br />

Garas u.<br />

Árvácska u.<br />

Felvinci út<br />

Rókushegyi lépcső<br />

Fillér utca<br />

Roskovics u.<br />

Hollósy Simon u.<br />

Jagelló út<br />

Kulpa u.<br />

Nyúl u.<br />

Csaba u.<br />

Gyógyfű u.<br />

Tóth Lőrinc u.<br />

Királyhágó tér<br />

Böszörményi út<br />

Nagy Jenő u.<br />

Káló esperes u.<br />

Vend u.<br />

Marczibányi tér<br />

Ezredes u.<br />

Tartsay Vilmos u.<br />

Dolgos u.<br />

Pentelei Molnár u.<br />

Aranka u.<br />

Marczibányi tér<br />

Káplár u.<br />

Retek u.<br />

Kiss János altábornagy u.<br />

Kléh István u.<br />

Ribáry u.<br />

Marczibányi tér Lövőház u.<br />

Kékgolyó u.<br />

Forint u.<br />

Ezredes u.<br />

Brassai Sámuel u.<br />

Kálló esperes u.<br />

Vérhalom u.<br />

Pengő köz<br />

Millenáris park<br />

Magyar Jakobinusok tere<br />

Schwartzer Ferenc u.<br />

Hertelendy u.<br />

Hajnóczy József u.<br />

Maros u.<br />

Derkovits u.<br />

Beck Ö. Fülöp u.<br />

Csörsz u. Csörsz u.<br />

Sirály u.<br />

Veréb u.<br />

G<br />

F<br />

E<br />

D<br />

C<br />

Tulipán u.<br />

Szoboszlai utca<br />

Beethoven u.<br />

B<br />

Fürj u.<br />

A<br />

Törökvész út<br />

Garas u.<br />

Szamos u.<br />

Ráth György u.<br />

Somorjai u.<br />

Cimbalom köz<br />

Tapolcsányi u.<br />

Gyógyfű u.<br />

Kupeczky u.<br />

Eszter utca<br />

Pajzs u.<br />

Aranka u.<br />

Greguss u.<br />

Istenhegyi út Nagyenyed u.<br />

Németvölgyi út<br />

Ugocsa u.<br />

Jagelló út<br />

Böszörményi út<br />

Alsó Törökvész út<br />

Csaba u.<br />

Bimbó út<br />

Városmajor u.<br />

Királyhágó u.<br />

Márvány u.<br />

Jagelló út<br />

Hegyalja út<br />

Breznó köz<br />

Cimbalom u.<br />

Marczibányi tér<br />

Krisztina körút Krisztina körút<br />

Hegyalja út<br />

Vérhalom tér<br />

Bimbó út<br />

Bimbó út<br />

Rét u.<br />

Dékán u.<br />

Eszter u.<br />

Fény u.<br />

Retek u.<br />

Berkenye u.<br />

Áldás u.<br />

Győri út<br />

Muskotály u.<br />

Tizedes u.<br />

Kosciuszko Tádé u.<br />

Kiss János altábornagy u.<br />

Radvány u.<br />

Pajzs u.<br />

Logodi u.<br />

Áfonya u.<br />

Barsi u.<br />

Bimbó út<br />

Margit körút<br />

Széll Kálmán tér<br />

Alkotás u.<br />

Krisztina körút<br />

Vérmező út<br />

Krisztina körút<br />

4<br />

BAH-csomópont<br />

Ady Endre u.<br />

Körmöci u.<br />

Nedecvár u.<br />

Várfok u.<br />

Józsefhegyi u.<br />

Baka u.<br />

Lövőház u.<br />

Füge u.<br />

Márvány u.<br />

Hegyalja út<br />

Budaörsi út<br />

Palánta u.<br />

Mátray u.<br />

Széna tér<br />

Bajmóci u.<br />

Cserje u.<br />

Keleti Károly u.<br />

Győző u.<br />

Otthon u.<br />

Mandula u.<br />

Kis Rókus u.<br />

Koronaőr köz<br />

Budaörsi út<br />

Márvány u.<br />

Kapitány utca<br />

Menta u.<br />

Muskotály köz<br />

Szemlőhegy utca<br />

Ady Endre u.<br />

Táltos u.<br />

Bálint u.<br />

Batthyány u.<br />

Logodi u.<br />

Holdvilág u.<br />

Bolyai u.<br />

Levél u.<br />

Kitaibel Pál u.<br />

Fajd u.<br />

Petrezselyem u.<br />

Varsányi Irén u.<br />

Krisztina körút<br />

Feszty Árpád u.<br />

Győző u.<br />

Vérhalom u.<br />

Bán u.<br />

Társ u.<br />

Schweidel u.<br />

Szemlőhegy u.<br />

Margit körút<br />

Kuny Domokos u.<br />

Fiáth János u.<br />

Lovas út<br />

Kapisztrán<br />

tér<br />

Úri u.<br />

Kosciuszko Tádé u.<br />

Pálya u.<br />

Avar u.<br />

Hegyalja út<br />

Villányi út<br />

Bajmóci u.<br />

u.<br />

Szittya u.<br />

Schweidel u.<br />

Ostrom u.<br />

Csejtei u.<br />

Rózsahegy u.<br />

Bécsi kapu tér<br />

Zsolt u.<br />

Zivatar u.<br />

Rómer Flóris u.<br />

Buday László utca<br />

Nándor u.Országház u.<br />

Lovas út<br />

Szemlőhegy u.<br />

Rómer Flóris u.<br />

Bimbó út<br />

Fényes Elek u.<br />

Jurányi u.<br />

Bolyai u.<br />

Orgona u.<br />

Jurányi u.<br />

Csalogány u.<br />

Hattyú utca<br />

Kard u.<br />

Róka u.<br />

Ág u.<br />

Erőd u.<br />

Varsányi Irén u.<br />

Mikó u.<br />

Otthon u.<br />

Józsefhegyi u.<br />

Kút u.<br />

Erőd u.<br />

Fortuna u.<br />

Csetneki u.<br />

Palatinus u.<br />

Sarolta u.<br />

Buday László u.<br />

Keleti Károly u.<br />

Nyárs u.<br />

Bajvívó u.<br />

Csukló u.<br />

Borbolya u.<br />

Erőd u.<br />

Szász Károly u.<br />

Csapláros u.<br />

Kapás u.<br />

Hess András tér<br />

Szentháromság u.<br />

Naphegy tér<br />

Kapás u.<br />

Szentháromság<br />

tér<br />

Margit u<br />

Mária tér<br />

Úri u. Dísz tér<br />

Pauler u. Pauler u.<br />

Tigris u.<br />

Harkály u.<br />

Mecenzéf u.<br />

Bolyai u.<br />

Zsolt u.<br />

Vérhalom u.<br />

Szabó Ilonka utca<br />

Naphegy u.<br />

Tibor u.<br />

Mészáros u.<br />

Avar u.<br />

Párduc u.<br />

Táncsics Mihály u.<br />

Fortuna köz<br />

Fenyő u.<br />

Tigris u.<br />

Ankara u.<br />

6<br />

1<br />

25<br />

Mészáros u.<br />

Attila út<br />

Mészáros u.<br />

Krisztina tér<br />

Csap u.<br />

Apostol u.<br />

Gellérthegy u.<br />

Derék u.<br />

Veronika utca<br />

Mechwart tér<br />

Batthyány u.<br />

Tábor u.<br />

Szeréna köz<br />

Toldy Ferenc u.<br />

Roham u.<br />

Hunfalvy u.<br />

7<br />

Logodi u.<br />

Piroska u.<br />

Gombocz Zoltán u.<br />

Késmárki u.<br />

Naphegy u.<br />

Orvos u.<br />

Turbán u.<br />

Kacsa u.<br />

Aladár u.<br />

Somlói út<br />

Köbölkút u.<br />

Horvát u.<br />

Fazekas u.<br />

Lisznyai u.<br />

Tárnok u.<br />

Palota út<br />

Fém u.<br />

Dezső u.<br />

Galeotti u.<br />

Szent Sebestyén köz<br />

Alsóhegy u.<br />

Alagút u.<br />

Rómer Flóris u.<br />

Margit körút<br />

Krisztina körút<br />

Ménesi út<br />

Vitéz u.<br />

Berényi u.<br />

Mecset u.<br />

Mihály u.<br />

Medve u.<br />

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Hunyadi János út<br />

Hunyadi János út<br />

Váralja u.<br />

Gellérthegy u.<br />

Kavics u.<br />

Gül Baba u.<br />

Török u.<br />

Franklin u.<br />

Szirtes út<br />

Frankel Leó út<br />

Frankel Leó út<br />

Zsigmond köz<br />

Kacsa u.<br />

Czakó utca<br />

Iskola u.<br />

Henger u.<br />

Fekete Sas u.<br />

Csónak u.<br />

Ganz u.<br />

Vitéz u.<br />

Gyula u.<br />

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Komjádi Béla u.<br />

Frankel Leó út<br />

Margit körút<br />

Tölgyfa u.<br />

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Batthyány u.<br />

Sarló u.<br />

Szent György u.<br />

Naphegy u.Derék u.<br />

Sánc utca<br />

Zsigmond tér<br />

Frankel Leó út Frankel Leó út<br />

Kandó Kálmán u. Királyfürdő u. Gyorskocsi u.<br />

Palota út<br />

Vidra u.<br />

Szalag utca<br />

Bodrog u.<br />

Bem József tér<br />

Corvin tér<br />

Bem rakpart<br />

Lipthay u.<br />

Markovits Iván u.<br />

Vám u.<br />

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Szőnyeg u.<br />

Dara u.<br />

Nagy Imre tér<br />

Ganz u.<br />

Kacsa u.<br />

Csalogány utca<br />

Színház u.<br />

Váralja uṖalota út<br />

Attila köz<br />

Mihály u.<br />

Naphegy u.<br />

Kelenhegyi út<br />

Üstökös u.<br />

Attila út Dózsa György tér<br />

Szirtes út<br />

Aranyhal u.<br />

Serleg u.<br />

Árpád fejedelem útja<br />

Vám u.<br />

Ponty u.<br />

Kapucinus u.<br />

Pala u.<br />

Sánc u.<br />

Slachta Margit rakpart<br />

Árpád fejedelem útja<br />

Tündérlaki mélyút<br />

Számadó utca<br />

Fő utca<br />

Vitéz u.<br />

Szilágyi Dezső tér<br />

Batthyány tér<br />

Fő utca<br />

Árpád fejedelem útja<br />

Halász u.<br />

Filozófusok sétaútja<br />

Iglói u.<br />

M<br />

Pala u.<br />

Jégverem u.<br />

Citadella út<br />

Bem rakpart<br />

ROYAL PALACE<br />

Szirom u.<br />

Szüret u.<br />

Bem rakpart<br />

Angelo Rotta rakpart<br />

Szirtes út<br />

Sztehlo Gábor rakpart<br />

Fő u.<br />

Clark Ádám tér<br />

Váralja u.<br />

Krisztina körút<br />

Kereszt u.<br />

Bérc u.<br />

Szirtes út<br />

Öntőház u.<br />

Orom u.<br />

Lánchíd utca<br />

Margit híd<br />

Attila út<br />

Somló köz<br />

Lánchíd u.<br />

Váralja u.<br />

Somlói út<br />

Szarvas tér<br />

Apród u.<br />

Apród u.<br />

Szigeti bejáró<br />

Szécheny Lánchíd<br />

Friedrich Born rakpart<br />

Apród u.<br />

Hadnagy u.<br />

Kelenhegyi út<br />

Várkert rakpart<br />

Fogas u.<br />

Döbrentei u.<br />

Attila út<br />

Margit híd<br />

Id. Antall József rakpart<br />

Fátyol u.<br />

Széchenyi rakpart<br />

PARLIAMENT<br />

CHAIN BRIDGE<br />

Széchenyi rakpart<br />

Id. Antall József rakpart<br />

Széchenyi rakpart<br />

Markó u.<br />

Zoltán u.<br />

Akadémia u.<br />

Arany János u.<br />

Széchenyi István tér<br />

Citadella sétány<br />

Rezeda u.<br />

Balaton u.<br />

Balassi Bálint u.<br />

Kossuth Lajos tér<br />

Garibaldi köz<br />

Carl Lutz rakpart<br />

Steindl Imre u.<br />

Széchenyi u.<br />

Garibaldi u.<br />

Vigyázó Ferenc u.<br />

Széchenyi István tér<br />

Tüköry u.<br />

Apáczai Csere János utca<br />

Eötvös tér<br />

CITADELLA<br />

Szabó Dezső sétány<br />

Kelenhegyi út<br />

Jászai Mari tér<br />

Verejték u.Minerva u.<br />

Pipacs u.<br />

Radnóti Miklós u.<br />

Katona József u.<br />

Pozsonyi út<br />

Budai Nagy Antal u.<br />

Falk Miksa u.<br />

Stollár Béla utca<br />

Nádor u.<br />

Kozma Ferenc u.<br />

Vécsey u.<br />

Nádor u.<br />

Honvéd u.<br />

Honvéd tér<br />

Szabadság tér<br />

Szemere u.<br />

Arany János u.<br />

Október 6. u.<br />

Hollán Ernő u.<br />

Balaton u. Balaton u.<br />

Galamb utca<br />

Március 15. tér<br />

Sas u.<br />

Hold u.<br />

Radnóti Miklós u.<br />

Stollár Béla u.<br />

Markó utca Markó u.<br />

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Szent István park<br />

Mérleg u. Mérleg utca<br />

Dorottya u.<br />

Szent Gellért rakpart<br />

Jane Haining rakpart<br />

Mányoki út<br />

Régi posta utca<br />

Petőfi tér<br />

Herzen u.<br />

Aranykéz u.<br />

Tátra u.<br />

Kemenes u.<br />

Orlay u.<br />

Bécsi u.<br />

Nagy Ignác u.<br />

Piarista u.<br />

Gogol u.<br />

Katona József u.<br />

Bank u.<br />

Fehér Hajó u.<br />

Podmaniczky Frigyes tér<br />

Szent István tér<br />

Hercegprímás u.<br />

Csiky u.<br />

Bihari János u.<br />

Báthory utca<br />

Váci utca<br />

Vadász u.<br />

Nagysándor József u.<br />

Szervita tér<br />

Balzac u.<br />

Bárczy István u.<br />

Városház u.<br />

Petőfi Sándor utca<br />

Molnár u.<br />

Pannónia u.<br />

Kádár u.<br />

Victor Hug<br />

Csanády<br />

Gyöngyház u.<br />

Gergely Győző u. Felka utca<br />

Raoul Wallenberg u.<br />

Kelenhegyi ú<br />

Báthory u.<br />

Wekerle Sándor u.<br />

Carl Lutz rakpart<br />

Deák Ferenc u.<br />

Pozsonyi út<br />

Vígszínház u.<br />

Szent István körút<br />

Alkotmány u.<br />

Hild tér<br />

József Attila u.<br />

Türr István u.<br />

Jane Haining rakpart<br />

Raoul Wallenberg rakpart<br />

Kálmán Imre u.<br />

Aulich u.<br />

Perczel Mór u.<br />

Kiss Ernő u.<br />

Harmincad u.<br />

Molnár u.<br />

Irányi u.<br />

Miatyánk u.<br />

Erzsébet tér<br />

Kéményseprő u.<br />

Belgrád rakpart<br />

Szent Gellért rakpartSzent Gellért tér<br />

Bessenyei u.<br />

Thurzó u.<br />

Borbély u.<br />

Deák Ferenc tér<br />

Révay köz<br />

Párizsi u.<br />

Irányi u.<br />

Kárpát u.<br />

Veres Pálné u.<br />

Nyáry Pál u.<br />

Bessen<br />

Garam<br />

Podmaniczky u.<br />

Hajós u.<br />

Ipo<br />

Nyugati tér<br />

Bajcsy-Zsilinszky út<br />

Bajcsy-Zsilinszky út<br />

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Erzsébet híd Szabad sajtó út<br />

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Zi<br />

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Ferenc<br />

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Sörház u.<br />

Várm<br />

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lkaházi Sára rakp<br />

Szabadság híd<br />

WES<br />

Valdemar és N


Cukor u.<br />

Szűz u.<br />

Szigony u.<br />

yei u.<br />

u.<br />

ly u.<br />

o u.<br />

utca<br />

Váci út<br />

Lázár u.<br />

Révay u.<br />

assage<br />

Weiner Leó u.<br />

chy Jenő u.<br />

Ó u.<br />

Hegedűs Gyula u.<br />

Kresz Géza u.<br />

Dobó u.<br />

Káldy Gyula u.<br />

Asbóth u.<br />

Lovag u.<br />

Dessewffy u.<br />

ovics Mihály u.<br />

iek tere<br />

olnár u.<br />

Thurzó u.<br />

Visegrádi u.<br />

Dalszínház utca Dalszínház u.<br />

Károlyi u.<br />

Veres Pálné u.<br />

Gerlóczy u.<br />

Fővám tér<br />

Gogol u.<br />

TERN RAILWAY STATION<br />

art<br />

egye u.<br />

Paulay Ede u.<br />

Semmelweis u.<br />

Székely Mihály u.<br />

Gozsdu udvar<br />

Millenniumi sétány<br />

Király u.<br />

Rumbach Sebestyén u.<br />

Szép u.<br />

Papnövelde u.<br />

Havas u.<br />

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Nagymező u.<br />

Madách Imre út<br />

Szarka u.<br />

Fővám tér<br />

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Dob u.<br />

Csengery u.<br />

Múzeum körút<br />

Vörösmarty u.<br />

Jókai u. Jókai tér<br />

Szondi u.<br />

Hajós u.<br />

Reáltanoda utca<br />

Eötvös u.<br />

Zichy Jenő u.<br />

Mozsár u.<br />

Vasvári Pál utca<br />

Holló u.<br />

Egyetem tér Kecskeméti u.<br />

Só u.<br />

OPERA<br />

Károly körút<br />

Ferenczy István utca<br />

Szerb u.<br />

Veres Pálné u.<br />

Fővám tér<br />

Fejér György u.<br />

Sóház u.<br />

Pipa u.<br />

Vág u.<br />

Röntgen u.<br />

Alig u.<br />

Kármán u.<br />

Tutaj u.<br />

Magyar utca<br />

Visegrádi u.<br />

Bessenyei u.<br />

Szobi u.<br />

Királyi Pál u.<br />

Csarnok tér<br />

Magyar u.<br />

Henszlmann Imre u.<br />

Közraktár u.<br />

Tisza u.<br />

Váci út<br />

ráva u.<br />

Bástya u.<br />

Gönczy Pál u.<br />

Imre utca<br />

Ronyva u.<br />

Lehel tér<br />

Lehel u.<br />

Teréz körút<br />

Paulay Ede u.<br />

Magyar u.<br />

Lónyay u.<br />

Erkel u.<br />

Nagymező u.<br />

Dohány u.<br />

Kálvin tér<br />

Síp u.<br />

Kis Diófa u.<br />

Kazinczy u.<br />

Török Pál u.<br />

Lónyay u.<br />

Lónyay u.<br />

Mátyás utca<br />

Czuczor utca<br />

Dráva u.<br />

Bulcsú u.<br />

Váci út<br />

Lőportár u.<br />

Paulay Ede u.<br />

Hegedű u.<br />

Taksony u.<br />

Lehel u.<br />

Ferdinánd híd<br />

Dévai u.<br />

Liszt Ferenc tér<br />

Csányi u.<br />

Rózsa u.<br />

Eötvös u.<br />

Bródy Sándor u.<br />

Közraktár u.<br />

Izabella u.<br />

Síp u.<br />

Angyalföldi út<br />

Oktogon<br />

Puskin u. Pollack Mihály tér<br />

Erkel u.<br />

Zsil u.<br />

Lónyay u.<br />

Bulcsú u.<br />

Lőportár u.<br />

Klauzál tér<br />

Trefort u.<br />

Gálya u.<br />

Lehel u.<br />

Podmaniczky u.<br />

Dohnányi Ernő u.<br />

Ötpacsirta u.<br />

Szabó Ervin tér<br />

Nyár utca<br />

Ráday u.<br />

Szentkirályi u.<br />

Angyalföldi út<br />

Tüzér u.<br />

Bajnok u.<br />

Szondi u.<br />

Kéthly Anna tér<br />

Nagy Diófa u.<br />

Taksony u.<br />

Kürt u.<br />

Szabolcs u.<br />

Aradi u.<br />

Szófia u.<br />

Wesselényi u.<br />

Markusovszky tér<br />

Huba u.<br />

Hunyadi tér<br />

Akácfa u.<br />

Csengery u.<br />

Klauzál u.<br />

Nyár u.<br />

Bródy Sándor u.<br />

Szentkirályi u.<br />

Múzeum u.<br />

Reviczky u.<br />

Baross u.<br />

Köztelek u.<br />

Kinizsi u.<br />

Bakáts u.<br />

Közraktá<br />

Biblia u.<br />

Botond u.<br />

Dévai u.<br />

Szinyei Merse u.<br />

Üllői út<br />

Vas u<br />

Szentkirályi u.<br />

Szentkirályi u.<br />

Köztelek u.<br />

Székely Bertalan u.<br />

Kertész u.<br />

Knézich u.<br />

Lőportár u.<br />

Szabolcs Köz<br />

Vörösmarty u.<br />

Stáhly u<br />

Gyulai Pál u.<br />

Róz<br />

Bakáts tér<br />

Dózsa György út<br />

Andrássy út<br />

Király u.<br />

Szív u.<br />

Erzsébet körút<br />

Horánszky u.<br />

Mária utca<br />

Hőgyes Endre u.<br />

Tüzér u.<br />

Bajza u.<br />

Izabella u.<br />

Márkus Emília u.<br />

Kőfaragó u.<br />

Krúdy Gyula u.<br />

Kmety György u.<br />

Dob u.<br />

Hársfa u.<br />

Mária u.<br />

Ferenc körút<br />

Szabolcs u.<br />

Szegfű u.<br />

Rózsa u.<br />

Dohány u.<br />

Pál u.<br />

Munkácsy Mihály u.<br />

Somogyi Béla u.<br />

Rökk Szilárd u.<br />

Tompa u.<br />

Németh László u.<br />

Békési u.<br />

Csepreghy u.<br />

Angyal u.<br />

ús utca<br />

Kodály körönd<br />

Rákóczi út<br />

Blaha Lujza tér<br />

Üllői út<br />

Almássy tér<br />

Barcsay utca<br />

Jósika utca<br />

Osvát u.<br />

Liliom u.<br />

Rippl-Rónai József u. Rippl-Rónai József u.<br />

Rejtő Jenő u.<br />

Wesselényi u.<br />

Tivadar u.<br />

Csokonai Vitéz Mihály u.<br />

Tompa u.<br />

Szövetség u.<br />

Hársfa u.<br />

Lendvay utca<br />

Fer<br />

Benczúr u.<br />

Alsó erdősor u.<br />

Bezerédi u.<br />

Scheiber Sándor u. Bérkocsis u<br />

József körút<br />

Csángó u.<br />

Felső erdősor<br />

Kölcsey u<br />

Kis Salétrom u.Salétrom u.<br />

József körút<br />

Szabolcs u.<br />

Bacsó Béla utca<br />

József u.<br />

Rákóczi tér<br />

Harminckettesek tere<br />

Kisfaludy u.<br />

Aba u.<br />

Népszínház u<br />

Kisfaludy u.<br />

Dózsa György út<br />

Szondi utca<br />

Bajza u.<br />

Lövölde tér<br />

Páva u.<br />

Vásár u<br />

Rigó u.<br />

Barát u.<br />

Német u.<br />

Vajdahunyad u.<br />

Hun u.<br />

Rottenbiller u.<br />

Víg u<br />

Német u.<br />

Alsó erdősor u.<br />

Kis Stáció u.<br />

Práter u.<br />

Vajdahunyad u.<br />

Munkácsy Mihály u.<br />

Városligeti fasor<br />

Berzenczey u.<br />

Wesselényi u.<br />

Kiss József u. Kiss József u.<br />

Kossuth Lajos u. Rákóczi út Rákóczi út<br />

CENTRAL MARKET<br />

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8 9<br />

GREAT SYNAGOGUE<br />

Rákóczi út<br />

NATIONAL MUSEUM<br />

MUSEUM OF APPLIED ARTS<br />

Tolnai Lajos u.<br />

Nap u.<br />

Bokréta u.<br />

Délibáb u.<br />

Hutyra Ferenc u.<br />

Luther u.<br />

Rózsák tere<br />

József utca<br />

Horváth Mihály tér<br />

Futó u.<br />

Futó u.<br />

Hun u.<br />

Dózsa György út<br />

Szabolcs u.<br />

Rippl-Rónai József u.<br />

Bajza u.<br />

Damjanich u.<br />

Péterfy Sándor u.<br />

Alsó erdősor u.<br />

Fecske utca<br />

Őr u.<br />

Hock János u.<br />

Hun u.<br />

Hősök tere<br />

Benczúr köz<br />

Rottenbiller u.<br />

Dohány u.<br />

Huszár u. Huszár utca<br />

Munkás u.<br />

Szilágyi u.<br />

Auróra u.<br />

Déri Miksa u.<br />

Tavaszmező u.<br />

Nagytemplom u.<br />

Remíz sétány<br />

Lovassy László u.<br />

Gundel Károly út<br />

Állatkerti körút<br />

HEROES' SQUARE<br />

Városligeti fasor<br />

Kenyérmező u.<br />

Leonardo da Vinci u.<br />

Tűzoltó u.<br />

Vágány u.<br />

Dózsa György út<br />

Dembinszky u.<br />

Bethlen Gábor tér<br />

Munkás u.<br />

Nagy Fuvaros u.<br />

Leonardo da Vinci u.<br />

Mohács utca<br />

Benczúr u.<br />

Rottenbiller u.<br />

Szűz utca<br />

II. János Pál pápa tér<br />

Kis Fuvaros u.<br />

ay János u.<br />

Leonardo da Vinci köz<br />

Tömő u.<br />

Jász u.<br />

Olof Palme sétány<br />

Berzsenyi u.<br />

Mátyás tér<br />

Damjanich u.<br />

Peterdy u.<br />

Koszorú u.<br />

Nefelejcs u.<br />

Légszesz u.<br />

Homok u.<br />

Garay u.<br />

István u.<br />

Baross tér<br />

Muzsikus cigányok parkja<br />

Szigony u.<br />

Murányi u.<br />

Marek József u.<br />

Péterfy Sándor u.<br />

Üllői út<br />

Hernád u.<br />

Mosonyi u.<br />

l pápa tér Dologház u.<br />

Vasas köz<br />

Práter u.<br />

Bókay János u.<br />

Rottenbiller utca<br />

Rákóczi út<br />

Vay Ádám u.<br />

Népszínház u.<br />

Üllői út<br />

Vágány u.<br />

BUDAPEST ZOO<br />

Fiumei út<br />

Gázláng u.<br />

Kun utca<br />

Bauer Sándor u.<br />

Molnár Ferenc tér<br />

Lósy Imre utca<br />

Jázmin u.<br />

Balassa u.<br />

Apáthy István u.<br />

Alföldi u.<br />

Festetics György u.<br />

Szerdahelyi u.<br />

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Magdolna u.<br />

Lippa u.<br />

Varannó u.<br />

Fiumei út<br />

Dankó u.<br />

Práter u.<br />

Garay u.<br />

Mosonyi u.<br />

Füvészkert u.<br />

Mór u.<br />

Róbert Károly körút<br />

Konrad Adenauer út<br />

Kós Károly sétány<br />

Mór u.<br />

u.<br />

VAJDAHUNYAD CASTLE<br />

Washington György sétány<br />

Szent László út<br />

Paál László út<br />

Teleki László tér<br />

Kisgömb u.<br />

Kis Baross tér<br />

Cserhát u. Garay tér<br />

Kálvária tér<br />

u.<br />

Állatkerti körút<br />

Alpár u.<br />

Murányi u.<br />

Verseny u.<br />

Fiumei út<br />

Teleki László tér<br />

Karácsony Sándor u.<br />

Tömő u.<br />

Hajcsár út<br />

Dvořák sétány<br />

Thököly út<br />

Illés u.<br />

Palóc<br />

Dévényi u.<br />

Sajó u.<br />

Kerepesi út<br />

Lóvásár u.<br />

Baross u.<br />

Dobozi u.<br />

Lujza u.<br />

Korányi Sándor utca<br />

Kacsóh Pongrác út<br />

Ajtósi Dürer sor<br />

Borostyán u.<br />

Szinva u.<br />

Cserhát u.<br />

Népszínház u.<br />

Magdolna u.<br />

Kálvária u.<br />

s u.<br />

Olof Palme sétány<br />

Szinva u.<br />

Thököly út<br />

Dugonics u.<br />

Mexikói út<br />

Bethesda u.<br />

Konrad Adenauer út<br />

Százház u.<br />

Ocskay László út<br />

Jobbágy u.<br />

Dobozi u.<br />

Zichy Mihály út<br />

Cházár András u.<br />

Istvánmezei út<br />

Verseny u.<br />

Salgótarjáni út<br />

Kacsóh Pongrác út<br />

Abonyi u.<br />

Szeszgyár u.<br />

Pálma u.<br />

Ferencsik János út<br />

Lev Tolsztoj sétány<br />

Csobánc u.<br />

Diószegi Sámuel u.<br />

Hermina út<br />

Cházár András u.<br />

Istvánmezei út<br />

Verseny utca<br />

Visi Imre u.<br />

Zichy Géza u.<br />

Cházár András u.<br />

Sárkány u.<br />

Teleki Blanka u.<br />

Horvát Boldizsár u.<br />

Ciklámen u.<br />

Erzsébet királyné útja<br />

6 7 8 9<br />

Thököly út<br />

Ajtósi Dürer sor<br />

Kőbány út<br />

Kőris u.<br />

Asztana út<br />

Mimóza u.<br />

Izsó u.<br />

Jávor u.<br />

Dorozsmai köz<br />

Kassai tér<br />

Columbus utca Columbus u.<br />

Salgótarjáni utca<br />

Orczy út<br />

Rozgonyi u.<br />

Szőnyi út<br />

Dózsa György út<br />

Orczy tér<br />

Kacsóh Pongrác út<br />

Laky Adolf u.<br />

Edison köz<br />

Edison utca<br />

Dorozsmai u.<br />

Erzsébet királyné útja<br />

Mexikói út<br />

Ajtósi Dürer sor<br />

Ida u.<br />

Stefánia köz<br />

Laky köz<br />

Laky Adolf utca<br />

Francia út<br />

Ida utca<br />

Delej u.<br />

Hajcsár u.<br />

Uzsoki u.<br />

Ilka utca<br />

Szabó József köz<br />

Delej u.<br />

Szikszó park<br />

Bíró Lajos u.<br />

Lapály u.<br />

Laky Adolf u<br />

Báthory István park<br />

Golgota tér Golgota út<br />

Delej u.<br />

grác út<br />

Thököly útThököly út<br />

Kacsóh Pon<br />

Semsey Andor u.<br />

MAPS<br />

Róna u.<br />

Amerikai út<br />

Gizella út<br />

Uzsoki u.<br />

Cserei u.<br />

Asztalos Sándor út<br />

Korong u.<br />

www.wheretraveler.com 39<br />

Reguly Antal u.<br />

6<br />

Bláthy Ottó u.<br />

Szikszó u.<br />

Dorozsmai u.<br />

Stefánia út<br />

Tanya utca<br />

Erzsébet királyné útja<br />

BALTAZÁR GRILL<br />

Buda I, Országház u. 31.<br />

T: (+36 1) 300 7050<br />

www.<br />

baltazarbudapest.com<br />

Thököly út<br />

7<br />

Thököly út<br />

JAMIE'S ITALIAN<br />

BUDA CASTLE<br />

Buda I,<br />

Szentháromság u. 9-11<br />

T: (+36 1) 800 9212<br />

www. jamiesitalian.hu<br />

8<br />

Kőbányai út<br />

Egressy út<br />

JAMIE'S PIZZERIA<br />

GOZSDU<br />

Pest VII, Király utca 13.,<br />

Gozsdu udvar<br />

Kerepesi út<br />

www.jamiespizzeria.hu<br />

9<br />

SPÍLER ORIGINAL<br />

Pest VII, Király utca 13.,<br />

Gozsdu udvar<br />

T: (+36 1) 878 1320<br />

www.spilerbp.hu<br />

]<br />

TRÓFEA GRILL<br />

RESTAURANTS<br />

Stubnyai u.<br />

Erzsébet királyné útja<br />

Buda II, Margit krt. 2.,<br />

Pest VI, Király u. 30-32.,<br />

Pest XIII, Visegrádi u. 50/A.<br />

www.trofea.hu<br />

utca<br />

Róna<br />

Uzsoki u.<br />

Columbus u.<br />

Gyarmat u.<br />

Laky Adolf u.<br />

Francia út<br />

Vajda Péter u.<br />

Ráskai Lea u.<br />

Titel u.<br />

Szabó Lőrinc u.<br />

Cserei köz<br />

Gizella út<br />

Rá<br />

Semsey Andor u.<br />

Szatmár u.<br />

Dózsa György út<br />

Erzsébet királyné útja Erzsé<br />

Nagy Lajos király útja<br />

Hungária körút<br />

Limanova tér<br />

Limanova köz<br />

Limanova köz<br />

Korong u<br />

Törökőr u.<br />

Mexikói út<br />

Eleonóra u.<br />

Ifjúság útja<br />

Kerepesi út<br />

Strázsa u.<br />

Strázsa köz<br />

Törökbecse u.<br />

Népliget<br />

Czobor u.<br />

Bácskai u.<br />

Hungária köz<br />

Csanta<br />

Ta<br />

Szobránc<br />

Jurisics Miklós<br />

Szob<br />

Stróbl Alajo<br />

Len


<strong>WHERE</strong> IT’S AT I BUDAPEST<br />

GREAT SYNAGOGUE<br />

Europe’s largest temple (it can fit some 3,000<br />

people) the Dohány Street Synagogue was<br />

built in the 1850s, showcasing a fusion of<br />

Moorish and Byzantine styles through such<br />

features as its onion-shaped domes. Inside,<br />

this Neolog house of worship is graced with<br />

such elements as a stained-glass rose window<br />

and an organ played by Franz Liszt. Holocaust<br />

memorials in the courtyard and the Hungarian<br />

Jewish Museum in another wing ensure that all<br />

visits are poignant ones. Dohány u. 2<br />

CHAIN BRIDGE<br />

It took nearly a decade for English architect<br />

William Tierney Clark and Scottish engineer<br />

Adam Clark to finish building the Széchenyi<br />

Chain Bridge in 1849, the first permanent link<br />

between Buda and Pest over the Danube. One<br />

of the world’s longest bridges at the time was<br />

rebuilt post-World War II today it remains a<br />

Budapest icon. Take a gander at night when<br />

it’s illuminated and the two towers reveal a<br />

particularly fairy-tale allure.<br />

PARLIAMENT<br />

There are almost 700 rooms inside the<br />

Parliament, home to Hungary’s National<br />

Assembly. Revel in this neo-gothic beauty<br />

completed in 1902 for the Austro-Hungarian<br />

Empire by architect Imre Steindl (the most<br />

expensive building ever constructed in<br />

Hungary) and take a tour, where you’ll see such<br />

highlights as St. Stephen’s crown. Frescoes,<br />

stained-glass windows, granite columns, and<br />

gold leaf galore make this one of Budapest’s<br />

most splendid landmarks. Kossuth Lajos tér 1-3<br />

FUNICULAR<br />

You could climb your way up to Buda Castle,<br />

but the more scenic (and tamer) alternative<br />

is to ride the Budapest Castle Hill Funicular<br />

(Budavári Sikló) at Clark Ádám Square.<br />

Launched in 1870, this historic funicular railway<br />

was only the second of its kind in Europe, after<br />

Lyon. It shuttered in the wake of the Second<br />

World War, but the Funicular re-opened in 1986<br />

with copper-adorned brown cars that have a<br />

whimsical, Old World feel to them.<br />

VIGADÓ CONCERT HALL<br />

Designed by Frigyes Feszl and opened in 1864,<br />

the Vigadó was a striking replacement for the<br />

neoclassical Redoute, which was destroyed<br />

by invading Austrian troops 25 years prior.<br />

The concert hall, located along the bank of<br />

the Danube, is adorned with gorgeous pillar<br />

statues and frescoes. Drop by for a glance at<br />

the monument’s architecture, or stick around<br />

for an English-led guided tour, followed by one<br />

of the numerous performances that span the<br />

National Youth Choir of Hungary and a jazzy<br />

swing concert. Vigadó tér 2<br />

ZWACK UNICUM MUSEUM<br />

Luckily, you likely won’t leave Budapest without<br />

having sipped your fair share of Unicum, the<br />

country’s beloved national liqueur. No matter<br />

the type of bar, the round, cross-emblazoned<br />

bottle’s presence is ubiquitous. Spun from<br />

a top-secret mix of herbs and botanicals,<br />

Unicum is a complex and heady digestif.<br />

At this small museum in District IX, learn<br />

about its late 18th-century royal roots<br />

and hear riveting war-era tales. Tours<br />

also include a wander through the<br />

distillery, best capped off with stops<br />

in the tasting room and shop.<br />

Dandár u. 1<br />

40 <strong>WHERE</strong> LONDON BUDAPEST I JANUARY I SEPTEMBER 2013<strong>2019</strong>


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