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<strong>PNG</strong> ECHO<br />

FIRST EDITION<br />

FEATURING<br />

Sheppard<br />

rocks Scotland<br />

MASERATIS IN <strong>PNG</strong>:<br />

MAKING LEMONADE<br />

OUT OF LEMONS<br />

INDEPENDENCE FOR<br />

BOUGAINVILLE:<br />

IS IT A PIPE<br />

DREAM?<br />

FIJI’S PLANTATION<br />

ISLAND RESORT:<br />

A TROPICAL IDYLL<br />

WITH A SOCIAL<br />

CONSCIENCE<br />

And so<br />

much more<br />

inside...


CONTRIBUTORS<br />

CHRIS BARIA<br />

BORN in the Kieta District of Central<br />

Bougainville, Papua New Guinea, Chris<br />

is old enough to have survived the civil<br />

war of the 1990s on Bougainville.<br />

He was working at the Copper mine,<br />

Panguna, when it was sabotaged by<br />

disgruntle landowners provoking civil<br />

war between the landowners/people<br />

of Bougainville and the government of<br />

Papua New Guinea.<br />

At the cessation of hostilities, he<br />

worked closely with ANZAC and Pacific<br />

peace monitors to effect a ceasefire and<br />

peace agreement.<br />

For seven years prior to his recent<br />

retirement Chris worked as a Press<br />

Officer in a government ministry in Port<br />

Moresby. He currently resides in Arawa,<br />

Central Bougainville where he is writing<br />

a book about his lifetime experiences.<br />

ELLA HALL<br />

FORMER food/travel blogger has<br />

lived in <strong>PNG</strong> for 10 years, where she<br />

has attempted to “single-handedly<br />

change the Internet’s opinion of Lae.”<br />

She is actively involved in women’s<br />

issues and was the President of the Lae<br />

Lioness Club for five years. Married,<br />

she is owned by two cats, six dogs<br />

and a green tree snake called Kevin.<br />

Her goal in life is to go a day in Lae<br />

without a power blackout.<br />

GREG SHEPPARD<br />

A practising lawyer based in Port<br />

Moresby, Papua New Guinea where he<br />

has resided for thirty years.<br />

He was born and educated in Perth<br />

at Guildford Grammar School and the<br />

University of Western Australia.<br />

He is married with three children and<br />

apart from law and poetry, his interests<br />

include music – classical and pop.<br />

He began to write poetry as selftherapy<br />

and takes inspiration from<br />

many styles including the seers, the<br />

nonsense rhymers and Dr Seuss.<br />

DR KEVIN<br />

PONDIKOU<br />

KEVIN is half Manus and half Simbu by<br />

birth. He is 40yrs old and has been working<br />

at Rumginae Rural Hospital for five years.<br />

He was admitted to Laloki Psychiatric<br />

Hospital for two months in 2013 which<br />

proved to be a life-changing experience<br />

for him.<br />

He is currently on medication for Bipolar<br />

Disorder and uses writing as a catharsis and<br />

also to record the untold stories of remote<br />

communities.<br />

ALSO:<br />

• REBECCA RUNDUALI<br />

• SUSAN MERRELL<br />

• LYDIA KAILAP<br />

• JUSTICE GEORGE<br />

MIKE JONES<br />

IT consultant, writer and grandfather,<br />

Mike has been meditating since the<br />

late 1970s. He is a student of the<br />

Western tradition of Buddhism. He<br />

has found that mindfulness meditation<br />

helps him to travel a kinder, more<br />

nourishing pathway.<br />

RITA<br />

RITA (surname unknown) started<br />

writing on the advice of her therapist<br />

who suggested it as a salve for her<br />

(ever so slight) drinking problem<br />

and her more disagreeable social<br />

tendencies. Rita will be regularly<br />

featured in ‘<strong>PNG</strong> <strong>Echo</strong>’ and will be<br />

a boon to the team – mainly because<br />

she’s handy (she lives downstairs from<br />

our editor.)<br />

TANYA LLOYD<br />

A published author and professional<br />

writer who is involved in a wide range<br />

of committees and organisations<br />

within the local community. She is an<br />

Australian expat currently enjoying life<br />

and culture in <strong>PNG</strong>.<br />

MANUHU CSM<br />

<strong>PNG</strong> ECHO SEPTEMBER 2019<br />

EDITOR<br />

Dr Susan Merrell<br />

E: susanmerrell13@gmail.com<br />

PUBLISHER<br />

Dr Susan Merrell<br />

E: susanmerrell13@gmail.com<br />

PROPRIETOR<br />

Pacific Perspectives P/L<br />

Suite 3, 571 Military Road<br />

Mosman NSW 2088<br />

Australia<br />

ONLINE EDITION<br />

www.pngecho.com<br />

COVER PHOTOGRAPH<br />

Chugg Entertainment<br />

DESIGNER<br />

Magazines byDesign<br />

www.bydesigngraphics.com.au<br />

www.facebook.com/<strong>PNG</strong><strong>Echo</strong>1<br />

© Copyright 2019. Pacific Perspectives P/L’<br />

All rights reserved.<br />

No part of this publication may be reproduced or<br />

transmitted in whole or in part without the written<br />

permission of the publisher.<br />

Whilst every care has been taken in the<br />

preparation of this publication, the publisher<br />

nor any of its employees, subcontractors or<br />

contributors assume any responsibility or liability<br />

for any loss or damage which may result from any<br />

inaccuracy or omission in the publication.<br />

Opinions expressed are those of the respective<br />

authors and not necessarily the publisher.<br />

2 <strong>PNG</strong> ECHO


EDITOR’S<br />

NOTE<br />

DR SUSAN MERRELL<br />

Everything changes – and so have we.<br />

After more than six years as a blog<br />

specialising in political commentary, we<br />

have decided to spread our wings and<br />

to add more voices figuring that there<br />

is more to life than politics and/or a single opinion<br />

and that a magazine is so much more satisfying to<br />

read than a blog.<br />

We’ve added travel, food, short stories, reviews,<br />

humour and poetry to the mix - and that’s just<br />

for starters.<br />

Read it online – at www. pngecho.com<br />

Happy reading. Don’t be a stranger. •<br />

In this edition we are featuring super-group<br />

‘Sheppard’ whose musical influences date back to<br />

their early years growing up in Papua New Guinea.<br />

This is my Scottish encounter with Amy George<br />

and Emma - in concert, in Glasgow.<br />

At <strong>PNG</strong> <strong>Echo</strong>, we love a little humour and who<br />

better to supply it than our official reviewer: meet<br />

the reluctant (read lazy) and irreverent<br />

‘Rita’? Here you’ll find Rita’s thoughts on those<br />

controversial Maseratis and her brilliant (ginsoaked?)<br />

solution: an annual ‘Independence<br />

Boulevarde 300’.<br />

*Remember you heard it here first. (No, it’s<br />

not one of the Governor’s “million ideas,” he’s<br />

hampered by sobriety!)<br />

Got a little time on your hands? Our travel<br />

feature takes us to Fiji and Plantation Island and<br />

explores the concept of eco-friendly tourism while<br />

Mike Jones, one of the most popular writers of<br />

Australian ABC’s unleashed, takes our minds for a<br />

walk and into a state of ‘mindfulness’.<br />

Along with Mike, yet more exceptional writers<br />

have contributed to this edition (and we are always<br />

looking out for more - so, get in touch):<br />

Dr Kevin Pondikou – tells of the hardships of<br />

being a doctor in a remote area of <strong>PNG</strong> while<br />

Rebecca Runduali reminds us that we’re not doing<br />

enough to protect our orphans.<br />

Tanya Lloyd writes of how she’s getting used to<br />

life in <strong>PNG</strong> as an expat, Lydia Kailap has a recipe<br />

for lamb flaps and Ella Hall, will make you smile<br />

with her tale of being introduced to a Western<br />

Highland’s culinary delicacy.<br />

Chris Baria catches a Sailfish – his detailed and<br />

colourful description inspires me to want to give it a<br />

shot … and not having forsaken politics completely<br />

and with the Bougainville vote for independence<br />

imminent, Chris has also contributed a personal<br />

account of the ‘taim bepo’ when Bougainville<br />

squandered its chances at independence – hoping it<br />

won’t happen again.<br />

I would also like to introduce you to our two<br />

regular features:<br />

Greg Sheppard will be commenting on life in<br />

rhyming verse in ‘Concerning Greg’. Beware, he<br />

can make you laugh out loud or make you cry at<br />

whim – but he’ll always leave you thoughtful.<br />

And last but not least, Justice George Manuhu will<br />

be the first guest to adorn our last-page spot<br />

‘My Job’ where, in each edition, a new job and a<br />

new special guest will give their insights into the job<br />

that they do. So, if you aspire to the National or<br />

Supreme Court Bench, read about his Honour’s<br />

personal journey to get there.<br />

CONTENTS<br />

11 20<br />

04<br />

IN REVIEW<br />

4 To Maserati or not?<br />

08<br />

COVER STORY<br />

8 Sheppard in Glasgow<br />

FOOD<br />

11 Lamb Flaps<br />

12<br />

LIFE’S ECHOES<br />

12 The Sailfish<br />

14 Concerning Greg<br />

15 What goes around comes around<br />

16 No cheese on the pizza<br />

18<br />

HEALTH & WELLBEING<br />

18 Collagen<br />

19 Mindfulness<br />

SPIRIT OF THE NATION<br />

20 Independence for Bougainville<br />

23 Tears on the last page of Papua<br />

New Guinea<br />

24 Orphans<br />

26<br />

TRAVEL<br />

26 Plantation Island<br />

30<br />

MY JOB<br />

30 Justice George Manuhu CSM<br />

<strong>PNG</strong> ECHO<br />

3


in review<br />

4 <strong>PNG</strong> ECHO


Somewhere in POM<br />

TO MASERATI<br />

or not?<br />

by RITA (THE RELUCTANT REVIEWER)<br />

The reporter in her second-best jeans<br />

want me to do what?”<br />

I asked incredulously of ‘Er Upstairs – (otherwise known as<br />

our esteemed editor whom I call that because we live in the<br />

same apartment building and, in a context where ‘floor envy’<br />

“You<br />

is a real thing, she lives many floors above.)<br />

She wanted me to review the ultra prestige car, the Maserati Quattroporte (the<br />

name sounds posh but just means ‘four-door’ in Italian) for a magazine to be<br />

published in Papua New Guinea.<br />

I’m thinking, she’s finally taken leave of her senses, all the rarefied air up there<br />

where she lives will do that to you. Nevertheless, I go ahead and state the bleeping<br />

obvious:<br />

“Papua New Guinea is a developing country, surely, there wouldn’t be a market<br />

for them there?”<br />

“That’s all you know,” she replied adding, “it’s why I’m the editor and you’re not.”<br />

She’s got a point there, so I just gave in and just said “OK.”<br />

But she wasn’t finished, oh no - on her way out she said, “…and before you start -<br />

try Googling <strong>PNG</strong> and Maserati,” as if she needed to tell ME how to suck eggs.<br />

So I did.<br />

And speaking of sucking eggs, I don’t need to tell you lot about the 40 Maseratis<br />

(and three Bentleys) airfreighted to <strong>PNG</strong> on specially commissioned 747 cargo jets<br />

late last year to be used specifically for the APEC week, do I?<br />

Neither do I have to remind you of the government’s assurance that they were<br />

variously either “pre sold” or selling “like hotcakes” afterwards. Nor indeed to<br />

inform you that, as I write, they are still on a wharf or in a warehouse in Port<br />

Moresby, unused, gathering dust (save for two Maseratis and a Bentley that<br />

have been sold and another Bentley that is now used as the Governor General’s<br />

official car.)<br />

Recently, the APEC Minister has told <strong>PNG</strong> that the reason they’ve remained<br />

unsold is because the tender process only solicited a few ridiculously low offers<br />

and after that people lost interest. (What happened to ‘pre-sold” and ‘hotcakes” I<br />

wonder? Empty hyperbole?)<br />

The intention of ‘Er Upstairs had now become apparent. She’s a troublemaker<br />

that one.<br />

I’m the fall guy. Oh well, there are worse jobs. Here goes.<br />

<strong>PNG</strong> ECHO 5


in review<br />

A VISIT TO THE SHOWROOM<br />

After lunch last Saturday, fortified by spaghetti and prosecco, I found myself<br />

outside the very swish showrooms of Maserati and Ferrari in Sydney’s<br />

inner suburbs.<br />

In I went, full of bravado, entering this haven of the rich and powerful (everyone<br />

except me).<br />

I easily located the Maserati Quattroporte (that it was labelled as such was the<br />

clue I needed) and was taking some photographs when a voice from a partitioned<br />

room boomed,<br />

“If you’re looking for some good-looking blokes to be in your photos….”<br />

I walked towards the “good-looking blokes” who were leaning on a bar that<br />

served, cakes, pastries, finger sandwiches and coffee (from a real barista’s coffee<br />

machine).<br />

I’d been in a car showroom like this before; they ply you full of goodies to keep<br />

you there and keep you occupied until you buy a car. So, would I like a cup of<br />

coffee? No. I would not – I’m not falling for that one twice.<br />

What could they do for me?<br />

“I’m interested in the Quattroporte,” I said. (It wasn’t a lie - I never mentioned<br />

buying it.)<br />

Alas, they were ‘Ferrari’ men; they’d have to get (let’s call him) Charles.<br />

HALLO CHARLES…<br />

Charles arrived…he wasn’t happy.<br />

Even wearing my second-best jeans, I clearly didn’t look sartorially splendid<br />

enough to be a real customer (all this attitude from someone who was wearing a<br />

baby-blue knitted vest too!)<br />

Charles answered my questions - albeit briefly and with an air of incredulity that<br />

I didn’t already know the answers.<br />

I learned that the starting price for the base model was a whopping quarter of<br />

a million Australian dollars, (according to Charles – I didn’t tell him that I knew<br />

where to get one cheaper) and that it was a performance car – “…a real driver’s<br />

car,” he said.<br />

“So why would people buy it if they had a chauffeur?” I asked. (All you people in<br />

APEC Land can see where I was going with that one, can’t you?)<br />

He spluttered a bit and said, “Because it’s a Maserati!”<br />

“What does that mean?” I asked, “is it about image?”<br />

He claimed not to know what I meant by “image”…so I helped him out.<br />

“Well what sort of person buys a Maserati,” I asked?<br />

“Successful business men,” he said without missing a beat. (He may have said<br />

“business person” but I don’t think so – he certainly didn’t mention women.)<br />

There was no stopping me now, I was on a roll:<br />

“What do they find attractive about it?’ I asked.<br />

“It’s a Maserati,” he answered once again shaking his head in disbelief. Stupid<br />

question, apparently. And there were more where that one came from.<br />

“So, how does it handle potholes?” I asked. (Still with me?)<br />

“Potholes?” he repeated, as if I was talking Swahili.<br />

“And what about if you lived in the Pacific – in a country such as…well… Fiji?” I<br />

said, trying to steer him off the scent of the controversial <strong>PNG</strong> Maseratis.<br />

“Where could you get it serviced?” (Are you keeping up?)<br />

“We have a service centre here,” he proffered. Yeah, but not much use to Port<br />

Moresby buyers, hey?<br />

Other than that, he didn’t have a clue. The nearest Maserati dealership to Port<br />

Moresby is in Brisbane - FYI, I left it at that – he was becoming visibly anxious.<br />

ACCORDING TO THE BROCHURE AND IN RETROSPECT<br />

The brochure tells me that the Maserati was designed to take advantage of the vast<br />

network of motorways in Europe. In Italy, home country of Maserati, there are<br />

4,200 miles of motorway alone, with Spain topping the bill at 10,500 miles (I’ll leave<br />

you to convert that to kilometres.)<br />

It maybe makes sense then for someone who is driving large numbers of miles, and<br />

has more money than s/he knows what to do with, to drive a car that can perform<br />

at speed on a made road (the Maserati can do between 270- 310 KPH.). Still, with<br />

speed limits now at 130kph (tops) on these roads, does it really make sense?<br />

In <strong>PNG</strong>, there are no roads to speak and of the few that exist, they are normally in<br />

a state of ill repair – both in the capital, Port Moresby and elsewhere. Potholes are a<br />

fact of life.<br />

With the sporty Maserati having a chassis close to the ground. I’m wondering how<br />

long it would last driving from the airport at Nazdab into Lae?<br />

However, in Port Moresby, they do have a lovely new road named ‘Independence<br />

Boulevarde’ but dubbed by you folk, very wittily, as the ‘Road to Nowhere’ because<br />

from APEC House, it leads…well… nowhere. It was built by the Chinese at great<br />

expense and is variously reported as being either one kilometre long or 300 metres<br />

- with six lanes.<br />

At 300 KPH – this road would, at 300 metres, take the Maserati only 3.5 seconds to<br />

travel its distance, or, at one kilometre, it would take about 11 seconds.<br />

On the bright side: driving those distances, I guess it wouldn’t use much petrol.<br />

But hang on: I hear the <strong>PNG</strong> Maseratis are diesel models with the pollutant factor<br />

too great for Australian omission laws. A bit of impediment if Minister APEC’s<br />

target market for the cars was ex-pats who’d import them into Australia.<br />

So to my question: “Who buys Maseratis?”<br />

Does the answer begin with ‘w’ end in ‘rs’ and have ‘nk’ in the centre? Just asking!<br />

Oh, and does <strong>PNG</strong> have 40 of them?<br />

Ok, Boss, is this what you were looking for? •<br />

JUST SAYING...<br />

Someone should have organised drag races down the length of<br />

Independence Boulevarde as entertainment during APEC. They<br />

had the cars and the track.<br />

What’s more, there’s a birds’ eye view from up there at APEC<br />

House and the splendid sidewalks would have made good<br />

viewing platforms for the public too.<br />

Port Moresby could have held the Inaugural Port Moresby,<br />

Maserati, Independence 300. And why stop at APEC? It could<br />

become an annual fixture of national life - like the Monte Carlo<br />

Rally did in Monaco. Whoo hoo!<br />

6 <strong>PNG</strong> ECHO


7


cover story<br />

SHEPPARD IN GLASGOW:<br />

On the Edge<br />

of the Night<br />

Facebook reminded me this morning that it’s two years to the day (as I write) that I<br />

was in Glasgow, Scotland to attend a ‘Sheppard’ concert.<br />

by SUSAN MERRELL<br />

8 <strong>PNG</strong> ECHO


I’m sure I neither have to introduce the<br />

Sheppard family nor Sheppard the band to<br />

anyone in Papua New Guinea. Sheppard<br />

siblings Amy, George and Emma, grew up and<br />

attended school in Papua New Guinea and<br />

cite <strong>PNG</strong> musicians as some of their early influences,<br />

especially music teacher Buruka Tau who taught them<br />

at primary school and still mentors them to this day.<br />

Over the two years, since that Scottish concert,<br />

new hits have managed to eclipse the mega popular<br />

‘Geronimo’ proving they are not just a one-hit<br />

wonder with songs like, ‘Coming Home’, ‘Edge of<br />

the Night’ and ‘Keep Me Crazy’ that have gained<br />

popularity in such far flung places as The Netherlands<br />

and Kazakhstan. Their latest album ‘Watching the<br />

Sky’ debuted at No 1 on the Australian Aria charts<br />

and in 2018 and 2019 the band were nominated for<br />

three Aria awards.<br />

What’s more, when Australia was looking for acts<br />

to represent them in the Eurovision song contest<br />

(Sheppard now reside in Brisbane, Australia)<br />

Sheppard was one of ten acts chosen to compete for<br />

the role. While Kate Miller-Heidke won the Australian<br />

‘heats’ and it was she that ended up representing<br />

Australia, the grand prize winner of Eurovision was<br />

Duncan Lawrence of The Netherlands who was<br />

support act for Sheppard in their Amsterdam concert<br />

at the end of last year. Ironic, hey?<br />

BUCKING OR SETTING THE TREND?<br />

I’ve seen Sheppard described as Indie Pop/Rock and<br />

while I’m not claiming to have a definitive description<br />

of the term, for me it conjures up dark, edgy<br />

subversive and grunting of the sort that every mother<br />

of an acne-inflicted, angst-ridden teenager recognises.<br />

Well, Amy, George and Emma are the antipathy of<br />

this. (So sorry guys if I’ve spoilt the image). No, nicer<br />

more articulate people you could not wish to meet –<br />

and I did meet them, maybe a year or more prior to<br />

the Glasgow gig. On that occasion, I joined the family<br />

for dinner at their home in Brisbane at the invitation<br />

of Greg and Linda (Mama and Papa Sheppard) whom<br />

I had met through Papua New Guinean connections.<br />

It was after their winning of an Aria award but, at that<br />

stage, I knew little of the group.<br />

Geronimo!<br />

Post our very genial get together and on subsequently<br />

seeking out Sheppard music, I developed what has<br />

been labelled Baader-Meinhoff syndrome – i.e. I was<br />

hearing Geronimo everywhere. I even found myself<br />

singing along to it on the ‘Muzak’ system in a Paris<br />

department store. Thrilled; I said to the saleslady,<br />

while pointing upwards at the speakers, “Ils sont<br />

mes amis (they are my friends). She replied<br />

“Vraiment?” (Really?) – She was clearly impressed.<br />

In Italy, on the shores of Lake Como, television<br />

was airing a documentary on some woman – I don’t<br />

speak Italian and I don’t know who she was, but she<br />

was clearly a blonde bombshell in her day, a bit like<br />

Bridget Bardot, (but not her). A while into the show<br />

there popped up, to my surprise, Sheppard singing…<br />

what else… Geronimo. I asked the Sheppards what<br />

that was all about but they didn’t know.<br />

What is clear, is that Sheppard music is infiltrating<br />

the popular psyche. I mean, how many times have<br />

you heard ‘Coming Home’ lately? It’s everywhere –<br />

advertisers particularly like using the riff.<br />

SCOTLAND THE BRAVE<br />

It had been pure serendipity that I was on the<br />

same side of the world when Sheppard was touring<br />

Britain two years ago. They were there mainly<br />

as a support act for Little Mix but it was a solo<br />

concert in Glasgow on a date that was just before<br />

my scheduled departure from my Provençal idyll:<br />

destination Sydney, that had me setting off a few<br />

days early and detouring through Scotland in order<br />

to attend.<br />

Touching down in beautiful Edinburgh, I stayed in<br />

a Georgian apartment with high ceilings and huge<br />

windows on the edge of the city. It was heavenly.<br />

Glasgow was different.<br />

I took the train there the next day in preparation<br />

for the concert. My hotel room resembled a cell –<br />

with a bed jammed between the two walls and the<br />

bathroom a cubicle, resembling an alien spaceship,<br />

filling the rest of the space. Never mind, I was<br />

looking forward to the concert. Little did I know it<br />

was a portent of things to come.<br />

I don’t know what I was expecting – but what I<br />

found wasn’t it.<br />

It was one of those dark, grungy, venues with an<br />

‘underground’ vibe where…come to think of it…I<br />

would once have expected to find my previous idea<br />

of an Indie Pop/Rock group performing.<br />

It was very dark, there were no seats, the floor was<br />

sticky and they served alcohol in plastic cups – not<br />

a venue any act would get too excited about.<br />

Thinking the band would sing a few songs and<br />

leave quickly while breathing a sigh of relief – how<br />

<strong>PNG</strong> ECHO 9


cover story<br />

Sheppard music is infiltrating<br />

the popular psyche<br />

wrong I was. They performed as if they were doing a gig in Madison Square Garden to<br />

thousands even though they were singing in a grunge pit from hell to less than a hundred.<br />

They sang all the perennial favourites and debuted quite a few of their songs off the then new,<br />

as yet unreleased album. It was here that I first heard the mega hit ‘Coming Home’.<br />

In spite of the surroundings, I must admit, the audience was enthusiastic and Sheppard<br />

rewarded them – not just by their presence on stage, but also by availing themselves afterwards<br />

for autographs and photos. They’re nice. That’s just how they roll.<br />

AMY’S CAMPAIGN<br />

And if you’re not yet convinced of what great guys these are (as well as demonstrably talented<br />

musicians), Amy Sheppard has recently taken up the issue of ‘body shaming’: doing something<br />

to counteract the pressure young people feel to have perfect bodies.<br />

In the public spotlight, nevertheless, she has been posting photos on Instagram and Facebook<br />

without any filters. The attendant caption reads ‘Kiss my fat ass’. That’s so brave in an era where<br />

everyone knows how to Photoshop – and does.<br />

She’s following this up with a song called…yes, you guessed it…’Kiss my fat ass’. As I write, it<br />

is being recorded and should be available by the time we go to press.<br />

Bravo Sheppard…and you’re right: – ‘The Best Is Yet To Come’, I’m sure! •<br />

10 <strong>PNG</strong> ECHO


LAMP FLAPS<br />

by SUSAN MERRELL<br />

Sticky lamp flaps (ribs)<br />

by LYDIA KAILAP<br />

INGREDIENTS<br />

• 2 lamb flaps<br />

• I teaspoon salt<br />

• I cup dark soy sauce<br />

• Half a cup jam (any flavour)<br />

• 2 cloves garlic, crushed<br />

• 1 inch piece ginger chopped finely<br />

• I small chilli – or to taste<br />

• Watercress to garnish<br />

METHOD<br />

Bring a saucepan of salted water (1 teaspoon of salt) to the boil that is large enough to fit the lamb flaps.<br />

Simmer gently until the meat is soft but not yet falling off the bone (around 45 minutes).<br />

Allow to cool.<br />

In the meantime<br />

Mix together the soy sauce, jam, garlic,<br />

ginger and chilli to form a marinade.<br />

Marinate the meat for at least an hour.<br />

Barbecue or grill until the meat is<br />

glazed and sticky.<br />

Garnish with watercress<br />

*The recipe also works well with other cuts of lamb<br />

but if you are using less fatty cuts of lamb, they do<br />

not need to be boiled first.<br />

As seen in the Victoria Market,<br />

Melbourne, Australia.<br />

A lamb flap by any other name…<br />

The popularity in of lamb flaps in <strong>PNG</strong><br />

is hardly surprising: they’re cheap, a<br />

good source of protein and utterly<br />

delicious.<br />

It’s the fat content that makes them<br />

so chin-drippingly delectable (any chef will tell<br />

you that the fat is where the flavour lies) - but it<br />

is the high fat content that fuels the controversy<br />

over the importation of lamb flaps into the Pacific<br />

from New Zealand and Australia.<br />

With problematic and significant levels of<br />

obesity in most Pacific Islands and considering the<br />

calorie content of lamb flaps, Fiji banned their sale<br />

in 2000.<br />

Fiji has the highest death rate from obesitylinked<br />

Type II Diabetes in the world at 188 deaths<br />

per 100,000 people. In major Fijian hospitals there<br />

are three amputations per day (usually lower<br />

limbs) caused by the effects of diabetes. The<br />

population of <strong>PNG</strong> also has significant levels of<br />

obesity resulting in diabetes.<br />

But is it really the fault of the lamb flap?<br />

Fiji’s incidence of diabetes has not abated<br />

since they banned the controversial meat but is,<br />

conversely, increasing.<br />

It’s generally believed that Australians and New<br />

Zealanders do not eat lamb flaps: that they are fed<br />

only to the animals – well that’s what they think.<br />

Really, the very name is enough to turn you off<br />

the product isn’t it? Anything with ‘flap’ in the<br />

name does not sound delicious …or even edible.<br />

And so, in some quite up-market Sydney and<br />

Melbourne restaurants ‘Lamb ribs’ have been<br />

making an appearance on the menus. A lamb flap<br />

by any other name… And what’s more, the doner<br />

kebab beloved of late night revellers is almost<br />

pure lamb flap.<br />

IT’S ALL IN THE PREPARATION<br />

I’m told by our guest chef, Lydia Kailap of Ziah’s<br />

Cafe in Kimbe, West New Britain and previously<br />

of Ricochet Café in Port Moresby, that rendering<br />

the fat in the cooking is a way to minimize the<br />

calories. Here’s her recipe for lamb flaps (it works<br />

well with other cuts of lamb too, she tells me.)<br />

And remember, there is no ‘bad’ food – everything<br />

is good in moderation. •<br />

<strong>PNG</strong> ECHO 11


life’s echoes<br />

Beautiful Southern Bougainville<br />

The Sailfish<br />

A SHORT STORY FROM BOUGAINVILLE<br />

by CHRIS BARIA<br />

When Kuruma arrived at the beach,<br />

the familiar smell of salt and sea<br />

hit his nostrils as he looked up<br />

and down the shoreline. There<br />

was no one around but there were<br />

footprints and drag marks made by canoes on the<br />

sand leading to the waters edge.<br />

Looking out across the bay, he could make out the<br />

canoes even though the sky was overcast. From where<br />

he stood, they looked like chess pieces on a vast<br />

chessboard.<br />

Going by the sun, barely visible through the grey<br />

clouds, Kuruma estimated it was about 3 o’clock. He<br />

had thirty minutes to paddle to the spot where he had<br />

seen a turtle surface last time and two hours to fish.<br />

Kuruma turned around and walked up the stretch<br />

of sand sloping from the waters edge to the edge<br />

of the bushes where he kept his canoe under the<br />

coconut trees.<br />

His canoe was under a sheet of roofing iron exactly<br />

where he’d left it. He lifted the roofing iron, set it<br />

aside and looked into the dugout hull of the canoe<br />

to make sure all his equipment was there. With both<br />

hands, he picked up the canoe by the outrigger and<br />

dragged it out of the bushes onto the beach.<br />

In his tote bag, he took out a 20-pound line<br />

rolled around a 7-inch round and buoyant piece of<br />

softwood and proceeded to fashion a ‘jig rig’. This<br />

was a multi-hooked line for bottom fishing, usually<br />

for baitfish although also ideal for when fish were in<br />

a feeding frenzy.<br />

Next he made a trawling jig, placing it towards the<br />

back of the canoe and the trawling line towards the<br />

front to avoid them getting tangled.<br />

He had been careful to check the four pegs<br />

driven into the outrigger attaching it to the canoe,<br />

remembering another time when he hadn’t checked<br />

and the loose pegs had come off, detaching the<br />

12 <strong>PNG</strong> ECHO


outrigger and leaving him to swim five kilometres<br />

to shore.<br />

Then, with one foot inside, he pushed the canoe into<br />

the water with the other before bringing that foot<br />

inside the canoe too. Picking up the paddle from the<br />

outrigger, he dipped it deep in the water and with one<br />

stroke, sent the small six-metre craft over the crest<br />

of the incoming wave and out into the calmer waters<br />

beyond the break.<br />

Kuruma steadied himself by locking his legs against<br />

the narrow mouth of the canoe before, moving<br />

forward, towards the outrigger frame. He bent over<br />

and reached down into the bottom of the dugout and<br />

brought up the line he had prepared for trawling.<br />

He let out the line as he paddled and once he was<br />

satisfied that there was enough distance between the<br />

lure and the canoe, he stopped and let the string out.<br />

Using three reference points, Kuruma located the<br />

position he was looking for before dropping the<br />

anchor. When the anchor reached the bottom he<br />

moved to the prow of the canoe and fastened the rope<br />

to a 4-inch nail driven into the prow.<br />

BOTTOM FISHING<br />

Satisfied with his position, he dropped the jig rig down<br />

the side of the canoe.<br />

Holding the roll of string with the left hand, he<br />

felt the weight of rod taking the jig down, until, all<br />

of sudden the string became light. Either something<br />

had snapped the line or there was fish swimming<br />

around with the jig. He quickly gathered up the string<br />

dropping it in a heap in the dugout - there were two<br />

small, silver trevally caught on two hooks on the jig.<br />

Bottom fishing had yielded him two excellent baitfish.<br />

He unhooked the fish and dropped the jig down<br />

again until the sinker rod hit the bottom. He jerked it<br />

a couple of times and the line went taut, biting into his<br />

fingers – he had hooked something. Kuruma played<br />

with the fish at the other end of the line by pulling and<br />

letting go of the line until the fish got tired and gave<br />

up. He’d caught a large red emperor. It seemed that<br />

he had interrupted a feeding frenzy.<br />

Unhooking his catch, he dropped the jig back down<br />

quickly to take advantage of the situation. When it<br />

reached the bottom he jerked it up once, twice and<br />

bingo! His hand dropped as the lined straightened with<br />

a powerful tug from the deep. This time it was a trevally<br />

just about the same size as the red emperor. He had<br />

caught enough fish this way and he was ready to trawl.<br />

TRAWLING FOR SAILFISH<br />

Kuruma took an 80-pound line out of his bag with a<br />

large hook attached. He took one of the two small<br />

silver trevally out of the canoe and slipped the large<br />

hook through its gill and into the flesh near the tail.<br />

After more preparations, Kuruma pulled up anchor<br />

before dropping the trawling rig in the water and<br />

letting out a length of the string. When he was<br />

satisfied all was well, he paddled out to stretch the line<br />

slowly, keeping a close watch before setting the line<br />

when he felt that there was enough distance between<br />

the bait and the canoe.<br />

Paddling towards the reef, he felt a nibble on the<br />

line. Three minutes passed before he felt a tug. This<br />

time it hit the line hard and, as if on auto unwind,<br />

the line sped out of the roll as Kuruma dropped the<br />

paddle and grabbed for it.<br />

And then it happened - a twelve-foot long, slim fish<br />

lifted out of the water – a magnificent silver streak<br />

against a setting sun - the fabled sailfish.<br />

As soon as the sailfish re-entered the water, Kuruma<br />

turned the canoe as the old man from the village had<br />

instructed him to do, keeping the line out from under<br />

the outrigger so as to stop the fish from overturning<br />

the canoe.<br />

And there it was again – out of the water, standing<br />

on on its tail with its long sharp spike extending from<br />

it upper lips, pointing to the heavens as if prodding<br />

for deliverance from above – a deliverance that never<br />

came. Its fate had been sealed.<br />

The sailfish continued to pull on the line dragging<br />

the canoe hither and thither before its energy was<br />

finally sapped. As it came alongside the canoe,<br />

measuring its length along the side of the boat,<br />

Kuruma drove the spear straight into the sailfish’s<br />

large head. Kuruma needed all his strength to wrestle<br />

the large fish into the dugout.<br />

Proud and satisfied with his afternoon’s work,<br />

Kuruma turned the canoe homeward, towards the<br />

beach where his wife and eldest son were waiting.<br />

“My dear husband you have killed the boss of the<br />

sea”, his wife said.<br />

He smiled proudly,<br />

“I didn’t know if I could do it but now that I have<br />

done it, I know how to get them.” •<br />

A beach on Bougainville<br />

The fabled sailfish<br />

<strong>PNG</strong> ECHO 13


Concerning Greg…<br />

<strong>PNG</strong> <strong>Echo</strong>’s poet laureate Greg Sheppard (also known to some as<br />

eminent legal counsel) counts the seers, nonsense rhymers and Dr<br />

Seuss as some of his main influences. His poems will sometimes<br />

make you laugh, may even make you cry – but will always make you<br />

thoughtful as he comments on life in rhyming stanzas.<br />

THE FAN<br />

A teary eyed fan meets her pop idol<br />

(looking very much like George<br />

Sheppard)<br />

by GREG SHEPPARD<br />

She lived all alone<br />

in her one bedroom flat,<br />

on the fringe of an uncaring city,<br />

and worked for the folks<br />

at St Vincent de Paul,<br />

who had hired her out of pure pity.<br />

She had toiled in that shop<br />

since her mother passed.<br />

There was nowhere else she could go.<br />

She longed to be<br />

accepted by the others,<br />

but they said she was too fat and slow.<br />

In her bedroom at night,<br />

she took some solace,<br />

with music and her little cat.<br />

Her iPhone, her headphones,<br />

and a YouTube account,<br />

she didn’t want much more than that.<br />

Her favourite band<br />

were top of the pops,<br />

and she tapped her toes to their beat.<br />

Their music made her happy<br />

like nothing else did,<br />

and she played them all night on repeat<br />

One day she heard<br />

on the radio at work,<br />

her idols were coming to town.<br />

She bought a “meet ‘n’ greet”<br />

ticket online,<br />

and counted all the days down.<br />

.On the day of the gig,<br />

she set her alarm,<br />

and jumped out of bed around five,<br />

then caught an Uber<br />

out to the airport<br />

and waited for them to arrive.<br />

The band’s private jet<br />

touched down on time,<br />

but security was tight as a drum.<br />

Her idols were bussed<br />

to their hotel unseen.<br />

She might as well never have come.<br />

She caught a cab,<br />

to the stadium gate,<br />

and stood in the line there all day,<br />

enduring the casual taunts<br />

of the punters,<br />

who lined up behind her to wait.<br />

Inside, she suffered<br />

the supporting acts,<br />

as they proudly strutted their stuff,<br />

but she longed to see<br />

her idols on stage<br />

and felt she had waited enough.<br />

When at last, her band<br />

took to the stage,<br />

she jumped from her seat and screamed.<br />

The drummer pointed<br />

right at her and waved,<br />

She felt she was one of ‘the team’.<br />

As the first loud strains<br />

of their popular hits<br />

belted out through enormous speakers,<br />

her joy was unbridled,<br />

she danced where she stood,<br />

and kicked off her grubby old sneakers.<br />

For about 90 minutes<br />

of glorious fun,<br />

She “belonged’ in the midst of the crowd.<br />

United by the words<br />

of every song,<br />

and she sang along, right out loud.<br />

When the last encore<br />

was finally done,<br />

She rushed to the “meet ‘n’ greet”,<br />

and stood in a line<br />

with her piece of their merch,<br />

while the others trod on her feet.<br />

She wanted to be really cool<br />

when she met them,<br />

and God knows how hard she tried.<br />

When the singer kissed her<br />

and hugged her, she trembled<br />

Then broke down and cried.<br />

He smiled and said<br />

"It's all OK,"<br />

and held her shaking hands,<br />

"I hope your tears<br />

are only for us"<br />

and not for some other bands<br />

She laughed and he gave her<br />

a poster he's signed,<br />

and took a selfie he said he would keep.<br />

"Thanks for coming out, Darling,"<br />

"We love you."<br />

"See you in Sydney next week."<br />

When at last she returned<br />

to her flat late that night,<br />

she laid out his poster on her bed.<br />

And remembered how wonderful<br />

he made her feel<br />

with gesture and some kindly words said<br />

14 <strong>PNG</strong> ECHO


WHAT GOES AROUND<br />

comes around<br />

by ELLA HALL<br />

NOT FOR THE<br />

SQUEAMISH<br />

A Kalifunga culinary delicacy.<br />

My children will tell you I’m a bit of<br />

an obsessive – a fanatic, if you like.<br />

I have been described by various<br />

fruits of my loins as ‘the manners<br />

fanatic’, ‘the grammar fanatic’, ‘the<br />

‘food fanatic’ and, indeed, the second youngest<br />

once described me as ‘the everything fanatic’.<br />

I am perfectly ok with all of that, but it’s my<br />

reputation as a food fanatic that I want to focus on.<br />

SOME WEIRD STUFF<br />

I admit, I eat some weird stuff: chicken’s feet, duck<br />

tongue, jellyfish, my mother’s chicken casserole. I’ve<br />

eaten snake, bull’s penis, deep fried pigs ears, just to<br />

name a few things I have willingly put in my mouth.<br />

Which is not to say I serve this sort of stuff to my<br />

family - I don’t. But, the rule in my house is that<br />

you don’t have to like something, but you do have<br />

to try it.<br />

Everyone is treated the same and that includes<br />

Vop – my adopted daughter who hails from<br />

Kalifunga in the Western Highlands Province. I<br />

cook dinner and she eats it. If she doesn’t like what<br />

I have served, she will be offered an alternative, but<br />

only after she’s actually tasted it.<br />

It’s been lovely to watch her tentatively approach<br />

everything from sausages to jelly cups and watch<br />

her eyes widen with pleasure as she realizes that<br />

just because something looks different to what she’s<br />

used to, it doesn’t mean it doesn’t taste good.<br />

THAT FATEFUL INVITATION<br />

While the husband was up in Hagen, I invited a<br />

friend around to keep Vop and I company. Roslyn<br />

is a local woman, who knows Vop well, Indeed<br />

she’s from the same village and was instrumental in<br />

helping us get Vop in the first place.<br />

So Roz turns up the other day toting a plastic<br />

bag, in which, she declares, she has a present for<br />

Vop. And indeed she does. A lovely big plastic bag<br />

of boiled chicken heads.<br />

Would you like a few moments to re-read that and<br />

compose yourselves?<br />

Ever-thoughtful Roz has cooked these delights up<br />

at home, poured the entire disgusting mass into a<br />

plastic shopping bag and walked for at least half an<br />

hour in 90-degree heat to our door.<br />

And Vop fell on these culinary horrors as if she<br />

was starving.<br />

These critters still had beaks and freaky little<br />

boiled eyelids, People!<br />

And Vop grabs one of these things and starts<br />

sucking on it like an icy pole.<br />

And then, Vop, with juicy boiled chicken brain<br />

goodness dribbling down her chin, grabs one of<br />

these zombie pops and offers it to me, muttering<br />

“Here, Mumma, you eat this one, it’s good.<br />

Very tasty”<br />

Can I get a resounding, “please, NO?”<br />

There is no way on goat’s green earth that I am<br />

putting a whole boiled chicken freaky all-day<br />

sucker in my gob. I swear, its mouth was open and<br />

that little zombie critter was smiling at me.<br />

Yes, I’ve eaten some weird stuff, but I have<br />

never eaten the entire head of any other creature,<br />

especially not one that has been steeped in a<br />

cauldron of salmonella with a side order of staph.<br />

I back away from this horror, with my hands<br />

outstretched and a look of pure disgust on my<br />

face, which, by the way, was a perfectly reasonable<br />

response, I feel.<br />

And Vop says to me, over the sound of her<br />

crunching through skull (breaking the number one<br />

food commandment of never talking with your<br />

mouth full)<br />

“You must try it, Mumma. You don’t have to like<br />

it, but you have to try it”<br />

Hoist by my own petard! What goes around,<br />

surely comes around!<br />

Thinking quickly and with years of children’s<br />

excuses to draw on, I declared that I wasn’t hungry<br />

right NOW, but I’d LOVE to have one for my<br />

dinner later.<br />

There’s a whole plate of the freaky boiled critters<br />

in the ‘fridge. I can hear them laughing at me, and<br />

waiting for me to go to sleep before they summon<br />

their zombie energy and march on their sautéed<br />

neck stumps, up the stairs, to peck me to death in<br />

my sleep. Aaarrrrgggghhh! •<br />

<strong>PNG</strong> ECHO 15


life’s echoes<br />

The view from Port Moresby<br />

Royal Papua New Guinea Yacht Club.<br />

NO CHEESE ON THE PIZZA<br />

but much love on the plate.<br />

<strong>PNG</strong> can be a tricky country to navigate as an<br />

expat. Many find it quite challenging but some of<br />

us come and fall in love with the place and never<br />

want to leave.<br />

Port Moresby from high on a hill<br />

Road travel <strong>PNG</strong> Style.<br />

by TANYA LLOYD<br />

There are many reasons for embarking on the expat life in <strong>PNG</strong>: it’s an<br />

adventure, you need a change of scenery, or maybe it was a decision<br />

made for you by your employer.<br />

Whatever be the case, as an expat, I’ve found one of the key things<br />

that’s needed in <strong>PNG</strong> to successfully navigate life here is flexibility - and<br />

I don’t mean changing dinner plans occasionally either - it’s the flexibility to be able<br />

to conduct everything that you would normally do in your life in a different way.<br />

Expectations tend to get in the way.<br />

If you expect that a planned meeting at a specific time will commence at the<br />

prescribed time, for instance – you’ll likely be disappointed. If you expect that the<br />

agreed on arrangements will be ready as planned – they won’t be.<br />

Want to cook a favourite meal that reminds you of home? By the time you’ve<br />

searched the shelves of the fifth supermarket looking for that vital ingredient it’s<br />

guaranteed you’ll be exhausted and, what’s more, empty handed!<br />

Are you craving a Hawaiian pizza? How do you feel about Hawaiian without the<br />

pineapple? Or even better, pizza without cheese? With stomach grumbling, salivating<br />

16 <strong>PNG</strong> ECHO


Clearing the road for passing traffic.<br />

like a hound, you open the box at home to find the vital<br />

ingredients missing. Oh well.<br />

When you change your attitude into flexible mode<br />

and just ‘go with the flow’ you’ll find that these little<br />

things are just petty annoyances that just prove to<br />

encourage your own creativity and problem solving<br />

skills. For instance, for times like this you will always<br />

have a contingency plan like a fresh pineapple and<br />

some grated cheese in the refrigerator at home.<br />

And isn’t ‘going with the flow’ so necessary on the<br />

roads of Port Moresby (POM)? Patience is a must.<br />

Being in a hurry in POM will provoke the inevitability<br />

of two cars travelling side by side up the Poreporena<br />

Freeway somewhere in the range of 20 kilometres per<br />

hour (kph), each one alternating speeding up to 25kph<br />

then dropping back to 20kph as soon as you’ve changed<br />

lanes. At least one of them will have a shattered<br />

windscreen and be blowing heavy black smoke.<br />

With this very small attitude adjustment, after very<br />

little time you’ll find you’ve become quite practised<br />

at switching to internal air and whispering words of<br />

encouragement to those people trying to get their cars<br />

up that hill: “Come on, you can do it, just a little bit<br />

further.” They usually do make it - making me think<br />

there could be power in my whisperings - a power that<br />

the horn of a car, however loud and often it’s tooted,<br />

doesn’t have.<br />

I’m also told and encouraged by the media<br />

and well-meaning friends that by lowering rigid<br />

expectations and embracing flexibility, I will reap<br />

benefits in increased physical and mental well-being<br />

and perhaps even gain a more peaceful existence.<br />

Certainly, anxiety about turning up late is a thing of<br />

the past for me … everyone else is doing it so it must<br />

be okay?<br />

And very soon you’ll see that you’re assimilating<br />

without even trying!<br />

LOOK FOR THE GOOD<br />

I truly believe that what you put out into the<br />

universe is what you’ll get back. Look for the good<br />

and that’s what you’ll see.<br />

“This would never happen in Australia!”<br />

I once heard someone complain loudly to a<br />

beautifully polite young woman serving at a wellknown<br />

eatery. Well guess what mate? You’re not in<br />

Look for the good and that’s<br />

what you’ll see.<br />

Australia, best you face up to that fact so we can all<br />

get on with living our care free expat lives.<br />

We are blessed to be invited into this diverse<br />

country and even more fortunate to still be young<br />

enough at heart to learn new tricks, no matter what<br />

our age. Embrace your flexibility even when you’re<br />

feeling a little rigid and above all practice kindness<br />

the same kindness that is given to you by the people<br />

of <strong>PNG</strong>. •<br />

<strong>PNG</strong> ECHO 17


health<br />

Collagen<br />

IS IT THE FOUNTAIN OF YOUTH?<br />

It’s the next best thing to sliced bread, according<br />

to the hype – or at least the next big thing after<br />

the discovery of the benefits of omega 3 fatty<br />

acids.<br />

We’re talking hydrolysed, ingestible collagen<br />

that is essentially a beauty treatment (but not only)<br />

that works from the inside out, effectively slowing<br />

(and repairing) the effects of aging.<br />

Collagen is a protein made of amino acids that<br />

naturally occur in our bodies. It makes up 30-40% of<br />

all our bodily proteins and is responsible, in the main,<br />

for the production of connective tissue: Skin, nails,<br />

hair, gut health, joints, tendons, ligaments and muscle<br />

are all dependent on bodily supplies of collagen.<br />

At around the age of 25, our body’s production of<br />

collagen dwindles by around 1% per year. It explains<br />

the visible signs of aging like wrinkles, thinning hair,<br />

brittle nails and also the not so visible signs like joint<br />

pain and lack of joint flexibility.<br />

For many years, the beauty industry has produced<br />

topical skin creams in their skin-care ranges that<br />

contain collagen, although scientific studies concluded<br />

that the molecules in the creams were too large to<br />

penetrate to the desired level of the skin to be truly<br />

effective and suggested that the perceived efficacy<br />

of topical collagen likely came from the other<br />

ingredients in the cream.<br />

Enter ingestible collagen.<br />

COLLAGEN AND ME<br />

Firstly let me be clear: I am not a bio-anything.<br />

Neither am I trained in any science, including<br />

medicine. What’s more, I have inherited fine Celtic<br />

skin (that I largely take for granted).<br />

A saleslady at a beauty bar once grabbed my hand<br />

on which to demonstrate one of her creams:<br />

“Your hands are so soft,” she exclaimed incredulously,<br />

unnecessarily adding<br />

“I guess you don’t spend too much time in the<br />

kitchen.”<br />

What’s more, I have more hair on my head per<br />

square inch than most, albeit fine.<br />

Nevertheless, I have self-prescribed between 10-20<br />

grams of hydrolysed marine collagen per day and<br />

here’s why.<br />

It seems that however genetically blessed we are,<br />

age will always catch us up eventually. Me, I had been<br />

noticing red blotches appearing under the skin on my<br />

forearms. They seemed to appear when I had been<br />

carrying heavy bags – so they’re bruises – but they<br />

aren’t blue - they look like raspberries.<br />

They did not bother me too much until, one day,<br />

I accidentally scratched the surface of one of these<br />

‘raspberries ‘ (the skin on top of these bruises is very<br />

fragile) and it bled as if I nicked my jugular vein. It<br />

was alarming.<br />

And so, as is my wont, Google was consulted. And<br />

so it was that ‘Wiki’ came to the rescue:<br />

Solar purpura …is a skin condition characterized by<br />

large, sharply outlined, 1- to 5-cm, dark purplish-red<br />

ecchymoses appearing on the dorsa of the forearms<br />

and less often the hands. [The accompanying picture<br />

was convincing – they looked like mine]<br />

The condition is most common in elderly people of<br />

European descent. [Oh thanks for that!] It is caused<br />

by sun-induced damage to the connective tissue of the<br />

skin… The lesions typically fade over a period of up to<br />

3 weeks.<br />

It fit perfectly, for although not a sun lover, my<br />

forearms are the part of me most often exposed to<br />

incidental sunshine. I was relieved it wasn’t terminal.<br />

The next Google task was what to do about it.<br />

And so I happened on the link between collagen and<br />

connective tissue and the consumption of hydrolysed<br />

collagen to boost flagging bodily supplies of the<br />

protein to the benefit of skin, nails, hair and all other<br />

functions relying on collagen. The theory is that it will<br />

strengthen the skin on my arms made fragile by sun<br />

damage and depleted collagen supplies.<br />

On the minus side, there have not been extensive<br />

studies – so the jury is out amongst the sceptical.<br />

However, the one study that was quoted many times on<br />

Google sites had had positive results with the sample<br />

finding a 20% improvement in skin tone. What’s more,<br />

the science, from a non-scientists viewpoint, sounded<br />

credible and logical. If lack of collagen was the cause –<br />

boosting collagen was the answer.<br />

The burning questions:<br />

• What form did it take?<br />

• What dosage?<br />

• Where could I buy it?<br />

• Were there any side effects?<br />

Collagen supplements come from two sources –<br />

marine and bovine. It seems that marine collagen is<br />

more bioavailable – meaning easier for the body to<br />

absorb but is more likely to cause allergies (not to the<br />

collagen but to the marine sources) and marine collagen<br />

can also cause hypercalcemia or too much calcium. Once<br />

again this is not the collagen itself but from the source,<br />

especially if the supplement comes from shellfish or<br />

shark’s cartilage – that are both high in calcium.<br />

I chose marine collagen because I have no allergies<br />

to fish and I figured that the calcium would be a bonus<br />

as I also have a vitamin D deficiency (the vitamin you<br />

get from the sun) that contributes to the reduction of<br />

bone density and the onset of osteoporosis. (I find it<br />

ironic that I get enough sun to damage the connective<br />

tissues in my arms but not enough to fulfil my vitamin<br />

D requirements.)<br />

The collagen supplement, in various forms, liquids,<br />

powder and pills, was not hard to find – on the<br />

Internet. It proved more difficult to find in the small<br />

town where I was staying at the time.<br />

But I did find it, in pill form, in a pharmacy. The<br />

chemist assistant kept asking me if I wanted it for<br />

“articulation,” or joints. She looked puzzled when I<br />

told her my reason. Nevertheless, I bought them.<br />

That was a mistake.<br />

The recommended dose, if there are no issues (like<br />

bleeding solar purpura) was 5-10 grams per day<br />

and up to 30 grams if you were aiming to combat a<br />

problem. These HUGE pills contained only 750 mgs.<br />

I’d need a bucketful of them to get the daily dose.<br />

However, I have since found sources of supply at<br />

large chemist outlets in Australia in boxes of 5 gm<br />

powdered sachets and also 100 ml bottles of liquid<br />

collagen that contain 10gms of collagen per bottle.<br />

So, before you buy, check on the amount of collagen<br />

per serve. Some manufacturers simply deal in ‘daily<br />

doses’ not explaining what those doses contain. I’m<br />

led to believe that any amount under 5 grams a day is<br />

not likely to have much effect.<br />

Apart from the side effects already mentioned – that<br />

are, at best, low-risk possibilities and easily avoided if<br />

you’re aware of your allergies, there doesn’t seem to<br />

be any.<br />

With all of this newly-found knowledge, I thought<br />

“why not’?<br />

THE RESULTS:<br />

They told me that it would take at least six weeks<br />

until I noticed any effect – it has now been 10 weeks.<br />

In that time I have only had one raspberry bruise on<br />

my forearm and it faded a lot quicker than the others.<br />

Before I was taking the collagen my arms were never<br />

completely free of them. Hopefully the collagen is<br />

repairing the connective tissue and thickening the<br />

skin on my arms.<br />

My hair is shining – and that’s not easy when your<br />

hair is blond. My nails are also noticeably stronger.<br />

As for my wrinkles – I have noticed that the wrinkles<br />

under my eyes, while having not disappeared, are<br />

noticeable shallower. The skin on my hands, is still<br />

soft – but that’s clearly due to the fact I spend so little<br />

time in the kitchen – just ask that sales assistant!<br />

I intend to persevere with taking the collagen<br />

supplements because it has, so far, improved my<br />

problem of raspberry bruises – any incidental benefits<br />

are pure serendipity. •<br />

18 <strong>PNG</strong> ECHO


MINDFULNESS:<br />

being in your present<br />

writes MIKE JONES<br />

It’s a lovely sunny day. You are walking through<br />

a beautiful park but you are not happy.<br />

Tomorrow you face a trip to the dentist and<br />

you are worried that it will be painful. You<br />

have a knot in the pit of your stomach, maybe<br />

your teeth are clenched and you generally feel very<br />

tense. You remember the last time you had root canal<br />

therapy you fainted because of the pain.<br />

You are re-living the past and rehearsing for the future.<br />

In the meantime, you have been completely<br />

oblivious to the lovely day. You have completely<br />

missed the present because your mind was somewhere<br />

else, colouring your day black.<br />

We can do better than this.<br />

ACCORDING TO BUDDHA<br />

About 2,500 years ago, the man who was later to<br />

become the Buddha realised there was a difference<br />

between pain and suffering: Pain, he said, is an<br />

inevitable part of life, but suffering is not. He found<br />

that there was a way to deal with suffering by being<br />

aware of what our mind is doing, through regular<br />

meditation - not only when we are experiencing pain,<br />

but with regular practice.<br />

In the early 1970s, Jon Kabat-Zinn (now Emeritus<br />

Professor) of the University of Massachusetts<br />

University Hospital, began to explore a secular use<br />

of the practice of mindful meditation to help patients<br />

with intractable chronic pain that was not benefitting<br />

from conventional analgesics. He taught patients how<br />

to refocus their attention away from the pain and to<br />

look for tiny islands of stillness when they perceived<br />

no pain.<br />

Since that time, many other proponents of<br />

mindfulness have brought elements of Buddhist<br />

teaching to the West, not only to assist patients but<br />

to help people become more conscious of what is<br />

happening in the present. That is, to minimise re-living<br />

a past that we cannot change and to stop rehearsing<br />

for a future that may never happen.<br />

Anyone can do it. Mindful meditation is based<br />

on simply sitting quietly, often with eyes closed,<br />

preferably in a peaceful place and concentrating the<br />

mind on monitoring one’s own breath in order to<br />

anchor us in the present – our breath.<br />

So find yourself a pleasant peaceful place to sit.<br />

Close your eyes. Breathe naturally and count your<br />

breaths. Gently let go of any thoughts and be in the<br />

present - your present.<br />

THE PRACTICALITIES<br />

Some meditators silently count breaths – say counting<br />

to ten and then starting back at one. There is no hard<br />

and fast rule about how long a meditation ‘sit’ should<br />

That is, to minimise<br />

re-living a past that we<br />

cannot change and to stop<br />

rehearsing for a future that<br />

may never happen.<br />

be. It’s best that whatever time one can reserve for<br />

mediation, one should sit daily. Many people prefer to<br />

start their day with a 20-minute silent sit – alone or in<br />

the company of others. •<br />

CAUTION: While there are undoubtedly<br />

significant bodily and mental health benefits<br />

in mindful meditating; in creating islands of<br />

peace in our increasingly hectic lives, few if<br />

any meditation proponents would argue that<br />

meditation is a panacea. Most would describe<br />

meditation as being beneficial in supporting<br />

other forms of therapy.<br />

<strong>PNG</strong> ECHO 19


Spirit of the Nation<br />

Children waving goodbye to the Buka ferry<br />

Independence<br />

for Bougainville<br />

The Papua New Guinean government has been given<br />

more than fifteen years to convince Bougainvilleans not<br />

to break away. To this date, its efforts have been dismal.<br />

The move towards independence with the referendum<br />

vote soon to be taken has reached the point of no return.<br />

Bougainville will be independent whatever it takes.<br />

writes CHRIS BARIA<br />

The first time I heard the word ‘referendum’<br />

was back in 1968 through my maternal<br />

uncle who was spending his holidays with<br />

us. I was eight years old at the time.<br />

Uncle James Rutana was the one after<br />

my mother in a family of six; they were close. My father<br />

was also fond of his well-educated brother-in-law with<br />

whom he liked discussing issues of the day.<br />

It was one of those nights, by the light of kerosene<br />

lamp, that my uncle explained to us what a referendum<br />

was. And he knew what he was talking about.<br />

I later learnt that my uncle had been a member of a<br />

group of Bougainvillean tertiary students from Port<br />

Moresby (and maybe other centres as well) who had<br />

formed themselves into a quasi-political movement<br />

called Mungkas Association.<br />

On September 8, 1968, soon after CRA* announced<br />

that there was an estimated 900 million tons of low<br />

grade copper at Panguna, two out of the three members<br />

of the Papua New Guinea House of Assembly and 22<br />

students met in Port Moresby to discuss a referendum<br />

to choose whether Bougainville should remain part<br />

of Papua New Guinea, secede or become part of<br />

the British Solomon Islands Protectorate (now the<br />

Solomon Islands – an independent nation-state).<br />

To effect their goal, and on a purely volunteer basis,<br />

the students used their Christmas break to raise<br />

awareness on the referendum vote that had been<br />

discussed in Port Moresby.<br />

As they started to move around the communities in<br />

Kieta District, a pro-Australian ex-serviceman [named]<br />

who had served with the Coastwatcher Paul Mason<br />

during World War II heard about what the students<br />

were doing. He was one of a small group who had been<br />

advised by Australian missionaries and government<br />

officers that Bougainville ought not to break away from<br />

Papua New Guinea.<br />

The Australian reported the students to the<br />

Australian government – a government that was pro a<br />

political status quo where Bougainville was politically<br />

governed by Port Moresby. As a result, all activities in<br />

preparation for possible independence were stifled by<br />

the Papua New Guinea government.<br />

That was how the first attempt at staging a<br />

referendum ended – the battle was lost, but the war<br />

wasn’t over (both metaphorically and actually).<br />

OF SQUANDERED OPPORTUNITIES…<br />

The failure of this referendum spawned a couple<br />

more unilateral declarations of independence. One on<br />

September 1, 1975 just two weeks before Papua New<br />

Guinea’s independence on September 16, 1975, and<br />

again during the Bougainville conflict on May 17, 1990.<br />

At the start of the conflict in 1990, I, and many others,<br />

believed that had the Bougainville Revolutionary<br />

Army (BRA) gotten their act together they may have<br />

effectively taken independence for Bougainville then.<br />

The Papua New Guinea government had withdrawn<br />

from the island totally, leaving an opportunity for the<br />

BRA to step into the breach.<br />

By then, the Papua New Guinean cause had lost the<br />

sympathy of the Bougainville population when the<br />

security forces started to take out their frustrations<br />

on the civilians when they failed to apprehend the<br />

BRA ‘rebels’. From this, the independence movement,<br />

triggered by the war over the mine at Panguna<br />

and prosecuted by the BRA, gained wide support<br />

throughout Bougainville: from north to south and east<br />

to west.<br />

However, eventually, this support was sorely tested<br />

when, finding there was no enemy to fight some of the<br />

BRA started to mistreat their own people, settling old<br />

scores using the power they had acquired through the<br />

barrel of the gun.<br />

As the young, post-crisis writer Leonard Fong Roka<br />

wrote in 2014:<br />

“The problem with these political manoeuvres was<br />

that the politicians had no power over the reckless<br />

BRA men who, over time, had carved their own minispheres<br />

of influence as they pursued a lawless grab for<br />

the spoils of war gains and the opportunity to remedy<br />

past grievances.”<br />

Independence, at that time, was a rare opportunity<br />

that we were unable to harness. But this was a war<br />

that was not fought by an institutionalized army<br />

with a proper chain of command. This was far more<br />

anarchical with all the attendant risks that flow from<br />

an armed force with a lack of hierarchical authority:<br />

The power of the gun was available to be abused and<br />

it was.<br />

Had independence happened then, by now, we<br />

would have built up an indigenous-based system of<br />

government and organised an economy based on a<br />

wide range of resources and innovations.<br />

In reality, we had our first taste of effective<br />

independence (if not actual) when the <strong>PNG</strong><br />

government imposed an economic blockade on the<br />

island during the war. With supples blocked, people<br />

became innovative; they reinvented hydro power: they<br />

used coconut oil as substitute for diesel fuel: villagers<br />

traded with each other in whatever way they could<br />

either using cash or bartering items and goods.<br />

As the war deepened and the Papua New Guinea<br />

Defence Force (<strong>PNG</strong>DF) came back to Bougainville<br />

to fight and regardless of the rogue antics of some<br />

of the BRA, media personnel and some government<br />

officials in Bougainville stated that all of the people<br />

with whom they had spoken wanted secession and<br />

independence. There was no question of the unity and<br />

total support for the call to independence, they said<br />

And it seems that the word on the street (and<br />

elsewhere) is that things have not changed for this<br />

upcoming independence vote.<br />

Speaking on ABC Radio Australia recently,<br />

Vanuatu-based Australian photojournalist, Ben<br />

Bohane, who was awarded the Bougainville Mission,<br />

Pacific Journalism Grant, said that all Bougainvilleans<br />

20 <strong>PNG</strong> ECHO


with whom he had spoken told him that<br />

they would vote for independence in the<br />

forthcoming referendum.<br />

I believe that the only thing that can stymie<br />

the Bougainvillean march to independence is<br />

lack of registered voters due to their names<br />

not being on the electoral roll and/or a poor<br />

turnout of voters.<br />

However, I am heartened by reports of how<br />

the level of voter enrolment is proceeding<br />

throughout the region and also in the rest of<br />

<strong>PNG</strong>, Solomon Islands and Australia.<br />

IN RETROSPECT<br />

Looking back at those times when a<br />

referendum was illegal; students worked<br />

without funds to raise awareness and educate<br />

their mostly illiterate people on the finer<br />

points of a referendum.<br />

They walked on foot over the mountains<br />

and valleys and along the beaches to bring to<br />

their people the message of a referendum and<br />

the hope of independence – a hope that has<br />

remained with us to this day.<br />

If, before we became disoriented and<br />

disunited due to abuse of power by some of our<br />

fighting men, we were able to stand together<br />

against what we perceived as a common enemy,<br />

then what better reason is there for us to<br />

huddle together once more than the hope of<br />

independence: a hope past generations have<br />

instilled in us and a reality that this generation<br />

has the power to effect - in their honour.<br />

A significant ‘yes’ vote for independence is<br />

going to be very hard for Papua New Guinea<br />

government to ignore. •<br />

(*Cozinc Riotinto of Australia Ltd. was<br />

renamed CRA in 1980 before becoming Rio<br />

Tinto Group)<br />

Kieta - once a thriving harbour<br />

An eerie mist falls over Panguna<br />

<strong>PNG</strong> ECHO 21


INDEPENDENCE FOR<br />

BOUGAINVILLE FROM A<br />

WOMAN’S PERSPECTIVE<br />

by CHRIS BARIA<br />

Mrs Lucy Madoi is a resident of<br />

Arawa. This former capital of<br />

Bougainville is more like a village<br />

today with many, displaced by the<br />

conflict, living and occupying houses<br />

left vacant by mine employees and public servants.<br />

Mrs. Madoi is a widowed mother of three who lived<br />

through the war and moved to Arawa with her now<br />

late husband Steven Madoi when the crisis ended.<br />

“It has not been easy to plan for the future in<br />

Bougainville,” she tells me, “but since my husband<br />

died I have kept myself busy with volunteer work<br />

providing charity work for the needy.”<br />

“I am now the President of ‘Bougainville<br />

Women’s Federation’, which is a voice for women in<br />

Bougainville. Our main activities are mentoring and<br />

grooming younger women to take our place<br />

as leaders in their community.”<br />

It is recognised that women’s groups in<br />

Bougainville were integral to the peace process and<br />

the development of the peace agreement<br />

that brought the war to an end.<br />

And they continue to be influential.<br />

In the 2017 Autonomous Bougainville Government<br />

elections, six women from the Bougainville<br />

Women’s Federation were appointed to be election<br />

observers and in the upcoming vote for Bougainville<br />

independence, the Bougainville Women’s<br />

Federation has undertaken an extensive programme<br />

of voter education, including educating the women<br />

of Bougainville about their participation rights.<br />

Of the upcoming vote Mrs Madoi advises:<br />

“Lobbying should be intensified in the National<br />

Parliament by our members to get support from<br />

other members of parliament - like the New Guinea<br />

Islands who understand our plight. We should also<br />

be lobbying for support with our Pacific Island<br />

neighbours to speak out for us.”<br />

“We must all speak with one voice and leave no<br />

one behind, as we move forward to achieve what<br />

our older people had dreamt about for so long - that<br />

is total independence of Bougainville.” •<br />

BOUGAINVILLE<br />

WOMEN AND<br />

GOVERNMENT<br />

by SUSAN MERRELL<br />

E<br />

xcept for a few districts, Bougainville is<br />

a matrilineal society where ownership<br />

of land is passed down through the female<br />

inheritance line.<br />

Although matrilineal, Bougainville society<br />

is not matriarchal, men still dominate public<br />

life – but women are vocal.<br />

Nevertheless, Bougainville leads the<br />

way when it comes to women’s political<br />

participation and advancement in Papua<br />

New Guinea.<br />

For, unlike the National Parliament of<br />

Papua New Guinea, which currently has<br />

no female members and reserves no seats<br />

for them, the Autonomous Bougainville<br />

Government reserves three of its 33 seats for<br />

women with one of the three awarded<br />

a cabinet position.<br />

Women are free to contest the other seats<br />

but, as I write, there is only one woman,<br />

who has currently won a non-reserved seat,<br />

indicating the prevailing dominance of men<br />

in public life.<br />

The Autonomous Bougainville Government<br />

is addressing this with legislation such as<br />

the ‘Bougainville Community Government<br />

Act’ of 2016 where, at the local level, each<br />

municipal ward must have one female and<br />

one male member and the awarding of the<br />

‘Chair’ must alternate and rotate between<br />

the genders. • Sohano Island, Buka<br />

22 <strong>PNG</strong> ECHO


View from the hospital to the living quarters.<br />

Tears on the last page<br />

of Papua New Guinea<br />

by KEVIN PONDIKOU<br />

The world is a book. And those who have not<br />

travelled have only read one page.<br />

One day, if you’re searching for a different<br />

perspective on life I would recommend<br />

spending some time in a little hospital<br />

far away from the concrete and fast-paced urban<br />

surroundings of<br />

surburbia.<br />

Turn the page with<br />

me as you leave<br />

the urban scenery,<br />

where everyone<br />

has a phone and<br />

the world happens<br />

only as it’s updated<br />

on a social media.<br />

Leave the plush,<br />

air-conditioned<br />

surrounds of the<br />

plane as you travel<br />

from Kiunga Airport<br />

through the searing heat along the only sealed road in<br />

town and onto the Kiunga-Tabubil Highway, through<br />

a forest of sago palms, rubber trees and trees that are<br />

home to various Birds of Paradise.<br />

As you wipe the sweat from your brow from the<br />

tropical humidity of the plains of North Fly District,<br />

I’m writing this down for<br />

memories sake as something to<br />

read in years to come about the<br />

trials and tribulations of delivering<br />

health care to the citizens of<br />

remote Papua New Guinea.<br />

Dr Pondikou<br />

and his healthy<br />

patient.<br />

you have entered an alternate reality.<br />

If you’re still willing to turn more pages, then come<br />

along with me as we step off the PMV bus with<br />

groceries purchased from Kiunga town - 28 km away -<br />

as here, there are no shops, only the school canteen and<br />

small village canteens.<br />

Here, we are in an<br />

unstable reality. It is a<br />

place where time stands<br />

still one moment and takes<br />

a huge leap forward the<br />

next as traditional culture<br />

is mixed with modern<br />

conveniences, lifestyles and<br />

attitudes.<br />

Here on the last page of<br />

Papua New Guinea, you’ll<br />

find that there are Papua<br />

New Guineans living their<br />

lives the best way they<br />

know how. We move along<br />

with our hurts and insecurities and mistakes from the<br />

past, present and future.<br />

Take a closer look at the cards that were dealt to<br />

our citizens here in remote, rural Papua New Guinea.<br />

There are teardrops on the last page of Papua New<br />

Guinea. •<br />

OPERATING<br />

IN THE DARK<br />

It was a rainy day, just like any<br />

other rainy day at Rumingae<br />

District Hospital in Kiunga, Western<br />

Province. There were ward rounds<br />

to do, patients to be discharged, calls<br />

to be made to outposts to deal with<br />

any new cases or emergencies - and<br />

arrangements to be made if there<br />

were.<br />

It had been a full day and I was<br />

heading home, but not before I<br />

checked in with a woman in labour<br />

who had given birth to large babies<br />

previously (one resulting in a<br />

caesarean section) and who was past<br />

her due date.<br />

Earlier in the morning, after the<br />

first ward round, I had called an<br />

obstetrician colleague concerning her<br />

case. Being past her due date, she needed a delivery plan<br />

and I was happy when an agreed one was put into place.<br />

Already, the woman was in considerable pain and<br />

was asking for a caesarean section but, in Papua New<br />

Guinea, there are rules we have to abide by when it<br />

comes to doing this operation and one is that there must<br />

be a good clinical reason for it and there didn’t seem to<br />

be one - even though she was a high-risk mother.<br />

At that stage, there was nothing to be done but to wait<br />

and see how things progressed, so I left for home, asking<br />

the staff to keep me updated on her condition.<br />

At 7 pm I got a “please call me” from the ward (my<br />

radio has been dead and as a result staff are calling me<br />

on my phone: - I hope to get a new radio in the near<br />

future) - it was about the woman in labour. I went to the<br />

ward fully expecting to operate.<br />

However, after doing a clinical review I opted to give<br />

her at least two more hours in order to give her the<br />

best chance of delivering naturally. I decided that if she<br />

hadn’t delivered by 10pm then it was likely she would<br />

need the operation.<br />

We prepared to do the caesarean section as time ticked<br />

by with no result.<br />

It was late and it was raining, nevertheless, when<br />

I called Muba and Sister Kamura and sent Bob our<br />

security guard to check Sister and Mr Dusi as well<br />

as Tommy and Frank, the medical students, they<br />

came quickly.<br />

We had no anaesthesia, so doing a spinal block was my<br />

only option. It’s a very tricky and precise procedure and<br />

I was not confident that my first attempt had hit the right<br />

spot, so I did a second one and this achieved the level of<br />

numbness required for the operation.<br />

Then came the blackout!<br />

Electricity supply is always unreliable here but<br />

thankfully Tommy had his phone torch with him<br />

so I could see to administer the bupivacaine spinal<br />

anaesthetic.<br />

Because of the off again, on again electricity here, staff<br />

routinely carry torches and all of our torches went on<br />

providing the light I used to begin the caesarean section.<br />

Sister Parila had a big torch and she stood on a stool to<br />

shine it onto our operating field.<br />

Our blood pressure machine was operating on its<br />

battery while Sister Kamura got the foot pump suction<br />

machine working by pedalling. When we didn’t need it,<br />

we would tell her to stop pedalling and she would only<br />

start again when we needed it.<br />

My two operating assistants were Muba and Frank.<br />

As luck would have it, just as I was about to incise the<br />

uterus, the power came on. It was not a moment too<br />

soon as, thanks to the good light, I was able to get the<br />

baby out before I needed to deal with the complication<br />

of a placental cord snapping.<br />

I’m so glad that Sister Dusi had prayed before we<br />

started operating under torchlight. We had delivered a<br />

healthy 3kg baby girl.<br />

So all’s well that ends well thanks to the dedicated<br />

effort of our staff and students (Medical and CHW)<br />

who work in this remote place in such dire and trying<br />

circumstances. •<br />

<strong>PNG</strong> ECHO 23


Some children are forced to forage on rubbish tips<br />

Orphans<br />

There is no accurate data for orphans in Port Moresby. Despite<br />

the Melanesian culture of ‘taking care of our own,’ thousands of<br />

children still walk the streets begging for food and money, whilst<br />

some sell stuff on the roadsides to make a living. The country has<br />

no working social network systems in place and no orphanages,<br />

though there are a few safe homes and outreach centres who give<br />

food and clothes to orphans. The plight of these children continues<br />

to go unheard. Here is just one of their stories.<br />

24 <strong>PNG</strong> ECHO


y REBECCA RUNDUALI<br />

It was raining on that morning, 16 years ago,<br />

when my mother died from Tuberculosis (TB)<br />

in the Port Moresby General Hospital TB ward.<br />

My father had long deserted us, I didn’t know<br />

what to do. I was only 15 years old then. The<br />

doctor helped me fill out the papers and gave me the<br />

death certificate. They put her lifeless body into the<br />

morgue - I had no money to pay for a car to bring her<br />

body home to pay our last respects.<br />

I walked in the rain from Three Mile to our home<br />

in Konedobu. When I arrived, my younger siblings<br />

were sitting outside our little tin house collecting<br />

water from the raindrops with pots. Their faces<br />

looked tired and hungry. They ran to me hoping I<br />

was bringing food.<br />

With a heavy heart, I hugged them to me and<br />

told them that Mama had died. I told them not to<br />

cry as we needed to work together and find money<br />

to bury her.<br />

My twin sisters were nine years old then and our<br />

baby brother was seven: they were small for their<br />

age. I told the three of them to stay by the house as<br />

I had to go look for our father. He was a policeman<br />

at the Port Moresby Police Station. I set out to walk<br />

from Konedobu to downtown Port Moresby for the<br />

second time.<br />

When I turned up at the Police Station, his new wife<br />

was there, she swore at me and told me to leave but<br />

some of the officers brought me in to the precinct to<br />

see my Dad, anyway.<br />

I told my father that Mama had died expecting that<br />

he’d help us but he told me to leave his office, that it<br />

was none of his business and that she was not his wife<br />

nor were we his children.<br />

I wanted to scream, to argue, but I couldn’t<br />

because I knew if I did, I would cry and I wasn’t<br />

going to cry in front of him and his new wife who<br />

had followed me in. I had far too much pride for<br />

that. I walked back home alone that afternoon, just<br />

as it was getting dark.<br />

AFTER WE BURIED MAMA<br />

It took the four of us two months to raise the<br />

money (by selling fish and empty tins and bottles<br />

that we collected) to buy a coffin and another<br />

month to raise money to pay for the land at Kilakila<br />

to bury our mother.<br />

The settlement we lived in was kind to us,<br />

one of our neighbors transported us in his truck<br />

and another women gave us a nice ‘Meri blouse’<br />

for our mother to wear. We buried her on a<br />

Saturday morning.<br />

Her family did not bother to come; they had disowned<br />

her many years before when she married my father.<br />

A month later, my father turned up with his new<br />

wife and took our baby brother away. I fought him,<br />

but he beat me and left with little Johnny, I never saw<br />

him again.<br />

It was just the three of us left. We carried on what our<br />

mother used to do and sold doughnuts and fried fish in<br />

downtown Port Moresby to survive.<br />

While I sold the fried fish and doughnuts, the twins<br />

would collect the empty bottles and tins discarded by<br />

the city residents.<br />

Life was good; at least we had a roof over our heads<br />

and food to eat at the end of the day.<br />

I promised them that, the next year, I’d put them in<br />

school and they were so excited. We used the profit<br />

from our food sales to buy our food to eat and saved<br />

the money from the sales of empty cans and bottles for<br />

their schooling.<br />

TB STRIKES AGAIN<br />

After a year, one of my sisters started getting sick,<br />

she lost a lot of weight so we took her to the clinic<br />

and were told that she had TB – the disease our<br />

mother had died from. Later that month, my other<br />

sister also went down with TB.<br />

I couldn’t let the twins die, they were all I had: they<br />

were my family. The nurse said they had to eat good<br />

food and take their six months’ supply of medicine in<br />

order to get better.<br />

I did the best I could, but within two months, they<br />

had both died.<br />

They died a day apart, first Barbie then Nancy. Though<br />

I begged Nancy to not leave me, she said she was so tired<br />

and that her twin and her Mama were waiting for her, so<br />

I told her to close her eyes and go to them.<br />

I left them in the morgue and walked home.<br />

The next day I woke up covered in my own sweat<br />

and I knew I too had TB. I slept all day, praying for<br />

death to take me - it had already taken my mama and<br />

my two beautiful sisters - it had left me with nothing.<br />

I lay on the floor of our tin house the whole week,<br />

too weak and sick to move.<br />

Before that week was out, a man from the<br />

settlement, during a drunken binge, broke into<br />

our little tin house and raped me, I was too weak<br />

to fight, too weak to scream for help, and just laid<br />

there as he raped me, beat me up and pulled me out<br />

into the darkness.<br />

He thought I was dead. He’d pushed me into<br />

the drain that ran at the back of the settlement.<br />

Eventually, I was discovered by a ‘white’ couple who<br />

called an ambulance to take me to the hospital.<br />

It took me three weeks to recover during which<br />

time I was too sick to do anything. My father was<br />

a police officer but I could not go to him - he had<br />

already rejected me twice.<br />

I couldn’t pay the admission fee or the ward fee but<br />

the nurse was kind enough and let me go without any<br />

payment.<br />

I went back home, determined to bury my little<br />

sisters, so I, once again, started selling fried fish and<br />

collecting empty tins and bottles to sell.<br />

It took me almost eight months to save enough<br />

(adding it to the money the twins had saved for<br />

school) but when I went back to the morgue, it was<br />

too late - they were not there.<br />

I was told that the unclaimed bodies had all been<br />

buried in an unmarked grave at Nine Mile Cemetery<br />

two months previously. I cried for what was an<br />

eternity, my mind screamed, I couldn’t accept that<br />

their little bodies, were dumped into one big hole<br />

with so many others. The pain was unbearable.<br />

I returned to my tin house at the edge of the<br />

settlement, and continued, as before, selling fish and<br />

collecting empty bottles and tins to sell.<br />

LIFE THESE DAYS<br />

I’ve been selling fried fish ever since and I continue<br />

to search for my little brother because he is my only<br />

family. I heard a couple of years ago that my father<br />

had retired and moved back to his former home in<br />

Morobe. And one day, when I have saved enough,<br />

maybe I’ll go to Morobe and look for my little<br />

brother - but perhaps this is just wishful thinking.<br />

I still pray for him, every night before I go to sleep.<br />

I hope he’s okay, I hope he went to school, and I<br />

hope he’s working, I also sometimes pray that he<br />

would come back and search for me.<br />

Anyway, these days, I have many friends, other<br />

women who have similar stories to me - some sell<br />

food and goods on the roadside to survive as do I,<br />

while others sell their bodies – but not me - I know<br />

my mother and sisters are watching down from<br />

Heaven and might be ashamed of me if I did that. •<br />

The character in the story is now 31 years old and still lives in the tin house she used to share with her mother<br />

and three siblings. She tells me that she started a rumor around the settlement that she was infected with<br />

HIV & Aids so no one bothers her, not even the drunkards.<br />

<strong>PNG</strong> ECHO 25


travel<br />

PLANTATION ISLAND RESORT<br />

taking corporate<br />

responsibility seriously.<br />

Planting coral on the<br />

artificial reef<br />

I met the genial Alex Wilson while he was Manager at the Grand Pacific Hotel in Port Moresby. He’s now<br />

moved on and is managing Plantation Island Resort in Fiji where he loves to welcome visits from Papua<br />

New Guineans and people he met during his time in <strong>PNG</strong>. I have been one of those lucky people. This is<br />

what I found.<br />

writes SUSAN MERRELL<br />

I<br />

arrived at Plantation Island on a one-hour ferry ride from Port Denarau<br />

in Nadi - windblown but relaxed.<br />

There was a welcoming party on the jetty: singing troubadours with shell<br />

necklaces to greet us, the newest arrivals.<br />

In the achingly blue waters, not far from the beach, was the children’s<br />

water playground: a series of floating and fixed obstacles for the children to<br />

climb over, swim to and to dive off. It looked like fun. I wondered: were adults<br />

allowed to play too? Shoals of fish were swimming under and around the pylons<br />

of the jetty – and yes, the palm trees were swaying. Heavenly!<br />

I was staying at the adult’s-only ‘Lomani’ part of the island and my room was<br />

a cool oasis with a lawn at the back that led directly to the beach. It was perfect<br />

– the epitome of a tropical idyll but with all the mod cons (including a backyard<br />

Jacuzzi) and a welcome bottle of ice-cold white wine to greet me.<br />

This is some of the beneficial effects of tourism - along with boosting the<br />

economy and providing local employment, it also gives us the comfort<br />

of modern living to enhance the tropical experience. Did I mention the<br />

swimming pools?<br />

But industry has its detrimental effects - and so too tourism. In particular I am<br />

talking about environmental concerns and the how the influx of tourists affects<br />

local life, habits and customs, sometimes for the better but too often for the worse.<br />

Plantation Island Resort management is tackling these things in its own<br />

quiet way.<br />

26 <strong>PNG</strong> ECHO


A friendly local with<br />

the children’s water<br />

park in view<br />

Did you know that the<br />

presence of stingrays<br />

ensures a clean shoreline by<br />

keeping down the seaweed?<br />

A sandbar lunch<br />

REEF REGENERATION<br />

The effects of climate change and human<br />

encroachment are nowhere as evident as in the<br />

Pacific. Reports of rising seas, dying coral reefs and<br />

the depletion of fish stocks are becoming too familiar.<br />

What’s more, sometimes, in our enthusiasm<br />

to experience the unfamiliar and the exotic, we<br />

inadvertently do damage to those things that<br />

fascinate and attract us.<br />

Manager, Alex Wilson tells of the how the daily<br />

feeding of the trigger fish – an activity beloved of the<br />

guests - was found to be having a detrimental affect<br />

on the surrounding coral reef. As a result of the feeding,<br />

the trigger fish no longer ate their traditional food –<br />

sea snails - and the sea snails, without their natural<br />

predators, were increasing and decimating the coral.<br />

However, in spite of this little hiccup, it hasn’t<br />

stopped Alex harnessing the enthusiasm of his<br />

guests to participate in the ecological well-being of<br />

the local environment. (Although, he has stopped<br />

feeding the trigger fish).<br />

The island management has a well-established reef<br />

regeneration program whereby the guests can plant<br />

a piece of coral and map its progress on subsequent<br />

visits and Alex encourages them to participate in the<br />

plantings with enticements such as a picnic on the<br />

sandbar in the middle of the lagoon afterwards. He<br />

does likewise with the regular clean-up-the-beach<br />

days. Picking up a bit of rubbish or planting a coral<br />

seems a small price for such a delightful reward and<br />

the enhanced community spirit and camaraderie is its<br />

own reward too.<br />

The children especially like being involved and<br />

there is a venue where they can make a fish house<br />

out of sand, stone and cement to plant on the reef.<br />

These fish houses are somewhere that fish can<br />

hide to get away from predators - a necessity of a<br />

balanced ecology.<br />

Did you know that the presence of stingrays ensures<br />

a clean shoreline by keeping down the seaweed?<br />

Plantation Island is also planting sea grapes in the<br />

ocean, (known as sea caviar, because it pops in your<br />

mouth, similar to the fish eggs). Alex tells me it is a<br />

super food. Sea grapes are a seaweed packed with<br />

vitamins and minerals. Considered a good source of<br />

vitamins A and C, calcium, zinc and iron, they also<br />

<strong>PNG</strong> ECHO 27


Making fish houses<br />

contain a high level of vegetable protein per calorie<br />

and a good amount of omega 3 fatty acids too.<br />

Which leads us to Plantation Island’s other<br />

corporate concerns…<br />

…THE WELL-BEING OF THE LOCAL<br />

EMPLOYEES ON PLANTATION ISLAND<br />

Diabetes Type II is rife in Fiji (and many other<br />

Pacific countries, such as <strong>PNG</strong>, are not far behind<br />

statistically). Plantation Island resort has three staff<br />

members with lower-limb amputation as a result of<br />

the disease.<br />

Out of concern for the health of his staff – of<br />

which there are 280 – Alex set up a health check.<br />

He was alarmed at the results. Generally, his staff<br />

was overweight and sedentary and their health<br />

check indicated this with the inherent diabetic<br />

warning signs.<br />

He noticed that it was usual for his staff to eat a<br />

big meal late at night that was often refined, fatty,<br />

convenience foods and that they did little exercise.<br />

He also noticed how alarmingly young many of them<br />

were when they passed away.<br />

Leading the way by example, Alex now walks every<br />

Monday morning (at 6 am) with all staff that are<br />

present and on duty. He doesn’t take “no” for an<br />

answer. He says he’s noticed an enormous change.<br />

While I was on the Island, he was also playing host<br />

to celebrated New Zealand chef, Colin Chung and<br />

hospitality trainer, Greg Cornwall of Pacific Islands<br />

Resort Consultants who were conducting staff<br />

training on how to use and serve local ingredients in<br />

new and modern ways.<br />

28 <strong>PNG</strong> ECHO


Chung believes that local ingredients have been ignored in favour of imported<br />

goods due to an erroneous belief that the local product is not good enough.<br />

“It’s just a case of knowing how to use them,” says Chung, who rightly points out<br />

that the nutritional value of the local products surpasses that of refined imports.<br />

Indeed, using local ingredients, as opposed to imports, has many benefits - for<br />

the economy, for employment and also for health generally. Chung tells me, for<br />

instance, that bitter gourd - widely available in Fiji - has properties that lowers<br />

blood sugar.<br />

I interrupted the training in the middle of Chung overseeing the preparation of<br />

food for a Manager’s cocktail party that evening on the beach, which I happily<br />

attended.<br />

The food was innovative and delicious and most of the recipes can be found in<br />

Chung’s cook book, Kana Vinaka,Contemporary Island Cuisine.<br />

My favourite was the smoked fish pate – simple to make and delicious. (see<br />

recipe)<br />

Kudos to the management of Plantation Island Resort for taking the lead in<br />

addressing environmental and health concerns on their small patch. •<br />

Kana Vinaka is published by Pacific Islands Resort Consultants and you can<br />

find out more detail on its availability from www.colinskitchen.co.nz<br />

The beach at the end of my garden<br />

<strong>PNG</strong> ECHO 29


my job<br />

MY JOB<br />

Sharing his employment<br />

experiences this month is...<br />

Justice<br />

George Manuhu CSM<br />

Q | What is your job title?<br />

Judge of Supreme and National Courts<br />

Q | What qualifications do you need for this job?<br />

Five years of experience as a lawyer<br />

Q | Where and how did you obtain yours?<br />

I was a lawyer with the Public Solicitors Office for four years and I was a District<br />

Court Magistrate for 11 years.<br />

Q | Was this a<br />

true vocation<br />

for you or did<br />

you fall into it<br />

accidentally?<br />

I always wanted to<br />

be a lawyer and after<br />

I became a lawyer I<br />

wanted to be a Judge.<br />

“When I was a child,<br />

I wanted to be a radio<br />

announcer because I<br />

love music.”<br />

Q | What type of personality would you recommend to follow<br />

this line of work?<br />

Someone who is patient, is a good listener, is compassionate but fair, courageous<br />

and firm in his decisions.<br />

Q | What are your main duties?<br />

In the National Court, I deal with criminal cases. I preside over all criminal cases<br />

from a simple assault to wilful murder. In the Supreme Court, I preside over<br />

appeals, reviews and constitutional matters.<br />

Q | Who are you currently working for?<br />

As a Judge, I work for the Independent State of Papua New Guinea.<br />

Q | Did your job entail a long training period and an arduous<br />

climb up the corporate ladder after you completed your studies<br />

or not?<br />

Yes. I was Chief Magistrate of Papua New Guinea before I was appointed as Acting<br />

Judge and subsequently as Judge.<br />

Q | What and where are opportunities for people with your<br />

qualifications?<br />

A lawyer can become a Magistrate, a Judge, a politician, a diplomat, a consultant, a<br />

CEO or a businessman.<br />

Q | What attracted<br />

you to the job?<br />

My sense of justice, fairness and<br />

compassion for others, especially those who come into conflict with the law.<br />

Q | What did you want to be when you<br />

were a child?<br />

When I was a child, I wanted to be a radio announcer because I love music.<br />

Q | What is the best part of your job?<br />

When I make a good decision.<br />

Q | The worse part?<br />

When I am asked to impose the death penalty.<br />

Q | If you could, today, change course and be and do<br />

something else, would you?<br />

Yes<br />

Q | …and what would that be?<br />

I want to be a preacher.<br />

30 <strong>PNG</strong> ECHO


PROOOFESSSSSSSSIIOOONNNAAAL<br />

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MERRELL<br />

ASSOCIATES<br />

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PACIFIC<br />

PERSPECTIVES<br />

PUBLISHERS OF<br />

<strong>PNG</strong> ECHO &<br />

REDEEMING MOTI<br />

WITH<br />

DR SUSAN MERRELL

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