PNG Echo
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<strong>PNG</strong> ECHO<br />
FIRST EDITION<br />
FEATURING<br />
Sheppard<br />
rocks Scotland<br />
MASERATIS IN <strong>PNG</strong>:<br />
MAKING LEMONADE<br />
OUT OF LEMONS<br />
INDEPENDENCE FOR<br />
BOUGAINVILLE:<br />
IS IT A PIPE<br />
DREAM?<br />
FIJI’S PLANTATION<br />
ISLAND RESORT:<br />
A TROPICAL IDYLL<br />
WITH A SOCIAL<br />
CONSCIENCE<br />
And so<br />
much more<br />
inside...
CONTRIBUTORS<br />
CHRIS BARIA<br />
BORN in the Kieta District of Central<br />
Bougainville, Papua New Guinea, Chris<br />
is old enough to have survived the civil<br />
war of the 1990s on Bougainville.<br />
He was working at the Copper mine,<br />
Panguna, when it was sabotaged by<br />
disgruntle landowners provoking civil<br />
war between the landowners/people<br />
of Bougainville and the government of<br />
Papua New Guinea.<br />
At the cessation of hostilities, he<br />
worked closely with ANZAC and Pacific<br />
peace monitors to effect a ceasefire and<br />
peace agreement.<br />
For seven years prior to his recent<br />
retirement Chris worked as a Press<br />
Officer in a government ministry in Port<br />
Moresby. He currently resides in Arawa,<br />
Central Bougainville where he is writing<br />
a book about his lifetime experiences.<br />
ELLA HALL<br />
FORMER food/travel blogger has<br />
lived in <strong>PNG</strong> for 10 years, where she<br />
has attempted to “single-handedly<br />
change the Internet’s opinion of Lae.”<br />
She is actively involved in women’s<br />
issues and was the President of the Lae<br />
Lioness Club for five years. Married,<br />
she is owned by two cats, six dogs<br />
and a green tree snake called Kevin.<br />
Her goal in life is to go a day in Lae<br />
without a power blackout.<br />
GREG SHEPPARD<br />
A practising lawyer based in Port<br />
Moresby, Papua New Guinea where he<br />
has resided for thirty years.<br />
He was born and educated in Perth<br />
at Guildford Grammar School and the<br />
University of Western Australia.<br />
He is married with three children and<br />
apart from law and poetry, his interests<br />
include music – classical and pop.<br />
He began to write poetry as selftherapy<br />
and takes inspiration from<br />
many styles including the seers, the<br />
nonsense rhymers and Dr Seuss.<br />
DR KEVIN<br />
PONDIKOU<br />
KEVIN is half Manus and half Simbu by<br />
birth. He is 40yrs old and has been working<br />
at Rumginae Rural Hospital for five years.<br />
He was admitted to Laloki Psychiatric<br />
Hospital for two months in 2013 which<br />
proved to be a life-changing experience<br />
for him.<br />
He is currently on medication for Bipolar<br />
Disorder and uses writing as a catharsis and<br />
also to record the untold stories of remote<br />
communities.<br />
ALSO:<br />
• REBECCA RUNDUALI<br />
• SUSAN MERRELL<br />
• LYDIA KAILAP<br />
• JUSTICE GEORGE<br />
MIKE JONES<br />
IT consultant, writer and grandfather,<br />
Mike has been meditating since the<br />
late 1970s. He is a student of the<br />
Western tradition of Buddhism. He<br />
has found that mindfulness meditation<br />
helps him to travel a kinder, more<br />
nourishing pathway.<br />
RITA<br />
RITA (surname unknown) started<br />
writing on the advice of her therapist<br />
who suggested it as a salve for her<br />
(ever so slight) drinking problem<br />
and her more disagreeable social<br />
tendencies. Rita will be regularly<br />
featured in ‘<strong>PNG</strong> <strong>Echo</strong>’ and will be<br />
a boon to the team – mainly because<br />
she’s handy (she lives downstairs from<br />
our editor.)<br />
TANYA LLOYD<br />
A published author and professional<br />
writer who is involved in a wide range<br />
of committees and organisations<br />
within the local community. She is an<br />
Australian expat currently enjoying life<br />
and culture in <strong>PNG</strong>.<br />
MANUHU CSM<br />
<strong>PNG</strong> ECHO SEPTEMBER 2019<br />
EDITOR<br />
Dr Susan Merrell<br />
E: susanmerrell13@gmail.com<br />
PUBLISHER<br />
Dr Susan Merrell<br />
E: susanmerrell13@gmail.com<br />
PROPRIETOR<br />
Pacific Perspectives P/L<br />
Suite 3, 571 Military Road<br />
Mosman NSW 2088<br />
Australia<br />
ONLINE EDITION<br />
www.pngecho.com<br />
COVER PHOTOGRAPH<br />
Chugg Entertainment<br />
DESIGNER<br />
Magazines byDesign<br />
www.bydesigngraphics.com.au<br />
www.facebook.com/<strong>PNG</strong><strong>Echo</strong>1<br />
© Copyright 2019. Pacific Perspectives P/L’<br />
All rights reserved.<br />
No part of this publication may be reproduced or<br />
transmitted in whole or in part without the written<br />
permission of the publisher.<br />
Whilst every care has been taken in the<br />
preparation of this publication, the publisher<br />
nor any of its employees, subcontractors or<br />
contributors assume any responsibility or liability<br />
for any loss or damage which may result from any<br />
inaccuracy or omission in the publication.<br />
Opinions expressed are those of the respective<br />
authors and not necessarily the publisher.<br />
2 <strong>PNG</strong> ECHO
EDITOR’S<br />
NOTE<br />
DR SUSAN MERRELL<br />
Everything changes – and so have we.<br />
After more than six years as a blog<br />
specialising in political commentary, we<br />
have decided to spread our wings and<br />
to add more voices figuring that there<br />
is more to life than politics and/or a single opinion<br />
and that a magazine is so much more satisfying to<br />
read than a blog.<br />
We’ve added travel, food, short stories, reviews,<br />
humour and poetry to the mix - and that’s just<br />
for starters.<br />
Read it online – at www. pngecho.com<br />
Happy reading. Don’t be a stranger. •<br />
In this edition we are featuring super-group<br />
‘Sheppard’ whose musical influences date back to<br />
their early years growing up in Papua New Guinea.<br />
This is my Scottish encounter with Amy George<br />
and Emma - in concert, in Glasgow.<br />
At <strong>PNG</strong> <strong>Echo</strong>, we love a little humour and who<br />
better to supply it than our official reviewer: meet<br />
the reluctant (read lazy) and irreverent<br />
‘Rita’? Here you’ll find Rita’s thoughts on those<br />
controversial Maseratis and her brilliant (ginsoaked?)<br />
solution: an annual ‘Independence<br />
Boulevarde 300’.<br />
*Remember you heard it here first. (No, it’s<br />
not one of the Governor’s “million ideas,” he’s<br />
hampered by sobriety!)<br />
Got a little time on your hands? Our travel<br />
feature takes us to Fiji and Plantation Island and<br />
explores the concept of eco-friendly tourism while<br />
Mike Jones, one of the most popular writers of<br />
Australian ABC’s unleashed, takes our minds for a<br />
walk and into a state of ‘mindfulness’.<br />
Along with Mike, yet more exceptional writers<br />
have contributed to this edition (and we are always<br />
looking out for more - so, get in touch):<br />
Dr Kevin Pondikou – tells of the hardships of<br />
being a doctor in a remote area of <strong>PNG</strong> while<br />
Rebecca Runduali reminds us that we’re not doing<br />
enough to protect our orphans.<br />
Tanya Lloyd writes of how she’s getting used to<br />
life in <strong>PNG</strong> as an expat, Lydia Kailap has a recipe<br />
for lamb flaps and Ella Hall, will make you smile<br />
with her tale of being introduced to a Western<br />
Highland’s culinary delicacy.<br />
Chris Baria catches a Sailfish – his detailed and<br />
colourful description inspires me to want to give it a<br />
shot … and not having forsaken politics completely<br />
and with the Bougainville vote for independence<br />
imminent, Chris has also contributed a personal<br />
account of the ‘taim bepo’ when Bougainville<br />
squandered its chances at independence – hoping it<br />
won’t happen again.<br />
I would also like to introduce you to our two<br />
regular features:<br />
Greg Sheppard will be commenting on life in<br />
rhyming verse in ‘Concerning Greg’. Beware, he<br />
can make you laugh out loud or make you cry at<br />
whim – but he’ll always leave you thoughtful.<br />
And last but not least, Justice George Manuhu will<br />
be the first guest to adorn our last-page spot<br />
‘My Job’ where, in each edition, a new job and a<br />
new special guest will give their insights into the job<br />
that they do. So, if you aspire to the National or<br />
Supreme Court Bench, read about his Honour’s<br />
personal journey to get there.<br />
CONTENTS<br />
11 20<br />
04<br />
IN REVIEW<br />
4 To Maserati or not?<br />
08<br />
COVER STORY<br />
8 Sheppard in Glasgow<br />
FOOD<br />
11 Lamb Flaps<br />
12<br />
LIFE’S ECHOES<br />
12 The Sailfish<br />
14 Concerning Greg<br />
15 What goes around comes around<br />
16 No cheese on the pizza<br />
18<br />
HEALTH & WELLBEING<br />
18 Collagen<br />
19 Mindfulness<br />
SPIRIT OF THE NATION<br />
20 Independence for Bougainville<br />
23 Tears on the last page of Papua<br />
New Guinea<br />
24 Orphans<br />
26<br />
TRAVEL<br />
26 Plantation Island<br />
30<br />
MY JOB<br />
30 Justice George Manuhu CSM<br />
<strong>PNG</strong> ECHO<br />
3
in review<br />
4 <strong>PNG</strong> ECHO
Somewhere in POM<br />
TO MASERATI<br />
or not?<br />
by RITA (THE RELUCTANT REVIEWER)<br />
The reporter in her second-best jeans<br />
want me to do what?”<br />
I asked incredulously of ‘Er Upstairs – (otherwise known as<br />
our esteemed editor whom I call that because we live in the<br />
same apartment building and, in a context where ‘floor envy’<br />
“You<br />
is a real thing, she lives many floors above.)<br />
She wanted me to review the ultra prestige car, the Maserati Quattroporte (the<br />
name sounds posh but just means ‘four-door’ in Italian) for a magazine to be<br />
published in Papua New Guinea.<br />
I’m thinking, she’s finally taken leave of her senses, all the rarefied air up there<br />
where she lives will do that to you. Nevertheless, I go ahead and state the bleeping<br />
obvious:<br />
“Papua New Guinea is a developing country, surely, there wouldn’t be a market<br />
for them there?”<br />
“That’s all you know,” she replied adding, “it’s why I’m the editor and you’re not.”<br />
She’s got a point there, so I just gave in and just said “OK.”<br />
But she wasn’t finished, oh no - on her way out she said, “…and before you start -<br />
try Googling <strong>PNG</strong> and Maserati,” as if she needed to tell ME how to suck eggs.<br />
So I did.<br />
And speaking of sucking eggs, I don’t need to tell you lot about the 40 Maseratis<br />
(and three Bentleys) airfreighted to <strong>PNG</strong> on specially commissioned 747 cargo jets<br />
late last year to be used specifically for the APEC week, do I?<br />
Neither do I have to remind you of the government’s assurance that they were<br />
variously either “pre sold” or selling “like hotcakes” afterwards. Nor indeed to<br />
inform you that, as I write, they are still on a wharf or in a warehouse in Port<br />
Moresby, unused, gathering dust (save for two Maseratis and a Bentley that<br />
have been sold and another Bentley that is now used as the Governor General’s<br />
official car.)<br />
Recently, the APEC Minister has told <strong>PNG</strong> that the reason they’ve remained<br />
unsold is because the tender process only solicited a few ridiculously low offers<br />
and after that people lost interest. (What happened to ‘pre-sold” and ‘hotcakes” I<br />
wonder? Empty hyperbole?)<br />
The intention of ‘Er Upstairs had now become apparent. She’s a troublemaker<br />
that one.<br />
I’m the fall guy. Oh well, there are worse jobs. Here goes.<br />
<strong>PNG</strong> ECHO 5
in review<br />
A VISIT TO THE SHOWROOM<br />
After lunch last Saturday, fortified by spaghetti and prosecco, I found myself<br />
outside the very swish showrooms of Maserati and Ferrari in Sydney’s<br />
inner suburbs.<br />
In I went, full of bravado, entering this haven of the rich and powerful (everyone<br />
except me).<br />
I easily located the Maserati Quattroporte (that it was labelled as such was the<br />
clue I needed) and was taking some photographs when a voice from a partitioned<br />
room boomed,<br />
“If you’re looking for some good-looking blokes to be in your photos….”<br />
I walked towards the “good-looking blokes” who were leaning on a bar that<br />
served, cakes, pastries, finger sandwiches and coffee (from a real barista’s coffee<br />
machine).<br />
I’d been in a car showroom like this before; they ply you full of goodies to keep<br />
you there and keep you occupied until you buy a car. So, would I like a cup of<br />
coffee? No. I would not – I’m not falling for that one twice.<br />
What could they do for me?<br />
“I’m interested in the Quattroporte,” I said. (It wasn’t a lie - I never mentioned<br />
buying it.)<br />
Alas, they were ‘Ferrari’ men; they’d have to get (let’s call him) Charles.<br />
HALLO CHARLES…<br />
Charles arrived…he wasn’t happy.<br />
Even wearing my second-best jeans, I clearly didn’t look sartorially splendid<br />
enough to be a real customer (all this attitude from someone who was wearing a<br />
baby-blue knitted vest too!)<br />
Charles answered my questions - albeit briefly and with an air of incredulity that<br />
I didn’t already know the answers.<br />
I learned that the starting price for the base model was a whopping quarter of<br />
a million Australian dollars, (according to Charles – I didn’t tell him that I knew<br />
where to get one cheaper) and that it was a performance car – “…a real driver’s<br />
car,” he said.<br />
“So why would people buy it if they had a chauffeur?” I asked. (All you people in<br />
APEC Land can see where I was going with that one, can’t you?)<br />
He spluttered a bit and said, “Because it’s a Maserati!”<br />
“What does that mean?” I asked, “is it about image?”<br />
He claimed not to know what I meant by “image”…so I helped him out.<br />
“Well what sort of person buys a Maserati,” I asked?<br />
“Successful business men,” he said without missing a beat. (He may have said<br />
“business person” but I don’t think so – he certainly didn’t mention women.)<br />
There was no stopping me now, I was on a roll:<br />
“What do they find attractive about it?’ I asked.<br />
“It’s a Maserati,” he answered once again shaking his head in disbelief. Stupid<br />
question, apparently. And there were more where that one came from.<br />
“So, how does it handle potholes?” I asked. (Still with me?)<br />
“Potholes?” he repeated, as if I was talking Swahili.<br />
“And what about if you lived in the Pacific – in a country such as…well… Fiji?” I<br />
said, trying to steer him off the scent of the controversial <strong>PNG</strong> Maseratis.<br />
“Where could you get it serviced?” (Are you keeping up?)<br />
“We have a service centre here,” he proffered. Yeah, but not much use to Port<br />
Moresby buyers, hey?<br />
Other than that, he didn’t have a clue. The nearest Maserati dealership to Port<br />
Moresby is in Brisbane - FYI, I left it at that – he was becoming visibly anxious.<br />
ACCORDING TO THE BROCHURE AND IN RETROSPECT<br />
The brochure tells me that the Maserati was designed to take advantage of the vast<br />
network of motorways in Europe. In Italy, home country of Maserati, there are<br />
4,200 miles of motorway alone, with Spain topping the bill at 10,500 miles (I’ll leave<br />
you to convert that to kilometres.)<br />
It maybe makes sense then for someone who is driving large numbers of miles, and<br />
has more money than s/he knows what to do with, to drive a car that can perform<br />
at speed on a made road (the Maserati can do between 270- 310 KPH.). Still, with<br />
speed limits now at 130kph (tops) on these roads, does it really make sense?<br />
In <strong>PNG</strong>, there are no roads to speak and of the few that exist, they are normally in<br />
a state of ill repair – both in the capital, Port Moresby and elsewhere. Potholes are a<br />
fact of life.<br />
With the sporty Maserati having a chassis close to the ground. I’m wondering how<br />
long it would last driving from the airport at Nazdab into Lae?<br />
However, in Port Moresby, they do have a lovely new road named ‘Independence<br />
Boulevarde’ but dubbed by you folk, very wittily, as the ‘Road to Nowhere’ because<br />
from APEC House, it leads…well… nowhere. It was built by the Chinese at great<br />
expense and is variously reported as being either one kilometre long or 300 metres<br />
- with six lanes.<br />
At 300 KPH – this road would, at 300 metres, take the Maserati only 3.5 seconds to<br />
travel its distance, or, at one kilometre, it would take about 11 seconds.<br />
On the bright side: driving those distances, I guess it wouldn’t use much petrol.<br />
But hang on: I hear the <strong>PNG</strong> Maseratis are diesel models with the pollutant factor<br />
too great for Australian omission laws. A bit of impediment if Minister APEC’s<br />
target market for the cars was ex-pats who’d import them into Australia.<br />
So to my question: “Who buys Maseratis?”<br />
Does the answer begin with ‘w’ end in ‘rs’ and have ‘nk’ in the centre? Just asking!<br />
Oh, and does <strong>PNG</strong> have 40 of them?<br />
Ok, Boss, is this what you were looking for? •<br />
JUST SAYING...<br />
Someone should have organised drag races down the length of<br />
Independence Boulevarde as entertainment during APEC. They<br />
had the cars and the track.<br />
What’s more, there’s a birds’ eye view from up there at APEC<br />
House and the splendid sidewalks would have made good<br />
viewing platforms for the public too.<br />
Port Moresby could have held the Inaugural Port Moresby,<br />
Maserati, Independence 300. And why stop at APEC? It could<br />
become an annual fixture of national life - like the Monte Carlo<br />
Rally did in Monaco. Whoo hoo!<br />
6 <strong>PNG</strong> ECHO
7
cover story<br />
SHEPPARD IN GLASGOW:<br />
On the Edge<br />
of the Night<br />
Facebook reminded me this morning that it’s two years to the day (as I write) that I<br />
was in Glasgow, Scotland to attend a ‘Sheppard’ concert.<br />
by SUSAN MERRELL<br />
8 <strong>PNG</strong> ECHO
I’m sure I neither have to introduce the<br />
Sheppard family nor Sheppard the band to<br />
anyone in Papua New Guinea. Sheppard<br />
siblings Amy, George and Emma, grew up and<br />
attended school in Papua New Guinea and<br />
cite <strong>PNG</strong> musicians as some of their early influences,<br />
especially music teacher Buruka Tau who taught them<br />
at primary school and still mentors them to this day.<br />
Over the two years, since that Scottish concert,<br />
new hits have managed to eclipse the mega popular<br />
‘Geronimo’ proving they are not just a one-hit<br />
wonder with songs like, ‘Coming Home’, ‘Edge of<br />
the Night’ and ‘Keep Me Crazy’ that have gained<br />
popularity in such far flung places as The Netherlands<br />
and Kazakhstan. Their latest album ‘Watching the<br />
Sky’ debuted at No 1 on the Australian Aria charts<br />
and in 2018 and 2019 the band were nominated for<br />
three Aria awards.<br />
What’s more, when Australia was looking for acts<br />
to represent them in the Eurovision song contest<br />
(Sheppard now reside in Brisbane, Australia)<br />
Sheppard was one of ten acts chosen to compete for<br />
the role. While Kate Miller-Heidke won the Australian<br />
‘heats’ and it was she that ended up representing<br />
Australia, the grand prize winner of Eurovision was<br />
Duncan Lawrence of The Netherlands who was<br />
support act for Sheppard in their Amsterdam concert<br />
at the end of last year. Ironic, hey?<br />
BUCKING OR SETTING THE TREND?<br />
I’ve seen Sheppard described as Indie Pop/Rock and<br />
while I’m not claiming to have a definitive description<br />
of the term, for me it conjures up dark, edgy<br />
subversive and grunting of the sort that every mother<br />
of an acne-inflicted, angst-ridden teenager recognises.<br />
Well, Amy, George and Emma are the antipathy of<br />
this. (So sorry guys if I’ve spoilt the image). No, nicer<br />
more articulate people you could not wish to meet –<br />
and I did meet them, maybe a year or more prior to<br />
the Glasgow gig. On that occasion, I joined the family<br />
for dinner at their home in Brisbane at the invitation<br />
of Greg and Linda (Mama and Papa Sheppard) whom<br />
I had met through Papua New Guinean connections.<br />
It was after their winning of an Aria award but, at that<br />
stage, I knew little of the group.<br />
Geronimo!<br />
Post our very genial get together and on subsequently<br />
seeking out Sheppard music, I developed what has<br />
been labelled Baader-Meinhoff syndrome – i.e. I was<br />
hearing Geronimo everywhere. I even found myself<br />
singing along to it on the ‘Muzak’ system in a Paris<br />
department store. Thrilled; I said to the saleslady,<br />
while pointing upwards at the speakers, “Ils sont<br />
mes amis (they are my friends). She replied<br />
“Vraiment?” (Really?) – She was clearly impressed.<br />
In Italy, on the shores of Lake Como, television<br />
was airing a documentary on some woman – I don’t<br />
speak Italian and I don’t know who she was, but she<br />
was clearly a blonde bombshell in her day, a bit like<br />
Bridget Bardot, (but not her). A while into the show<br />
there popped up, to my surprise, Sheppard singing…<br />
what else… Geronimo. I asked the Sheppards what<br />
that was all about but they didn’t know.<br />
What is clear, is that Sheppard music is infiltrating<br />
the popular psyche. I mean, how many times have<br />
you heard ‘Coming Home’ lately? It’s everywhere –<br />
advertisers particularly like using the riff.<br />
SCOTLAND THE BRAVE<br />
It had been pure serendipity that I was on the<br />
same side of the world when Sheppard was touring<br />
Britain two years ago. They were there mainly<br />
as a support act for Little Mix but it was a solo<br />
concert in Glasgow on a date that was just before<br />
my scheduled departure from my Provençal idyll:<br />
destination Sydney, that had me setting off a few<br />
days early and detouring through Scotland in order<br />
to attend.<br />
Touching down in beautiful Edinburgh, I stayed in<br />
a Georgian apartment with high ceilings and huge<br />
windows on the edge of the city. It was heavenly.<br />
Glasgow was different.<br />
I took the train there the next day in preparation<br />
for the concert. My hotel room resembled a cell –<br />
with a bed jammed between the two walls and the<br />
bathroom a cubicle, resembling an alien spaceship,<br />
filling the rest of the space. Never mind, I was<br />
looking forward to the concert. Little did I know it<br />
was a portent of things to come.<br />
I don’t know what I was expecting – but what I<br />
found wasn’t it.<br />
It was one of those dark, grungy, venues with an<br />
‘underground’ vibe where…come to think of it…I<br />
would once have expected to find my previous idea<br />
of an Indie Pop/Rock group performing.<br />
It was very dark, there were no seats, the floor was<br />
sticky and they served alcohol in plastic cups – not<br />
a venue any act would get too excited about.<br />
Thinking the band would sing a few songs and<br />
leave quickly while breathing a sigh of relief – how<br />
<strong>PNG</strong> ECHO 9
cover story<br />
Sheppard music is infiltrating<br />
the popular psyche<br />
wrong I was. They performed as if they were doing a gig in Madison Square Garden to<br />
thousands even though they were singing in a grunge pit from hell to less than a hundred.<br />
They sang all the perennial favourites and debuted quite a few of their songs off the then new,<br />
as yet unreleased album. It was here that I first heard the mega hit ‘Coming Home’.<br />
In spite of the surroundings, I must admit, the audience was enthusiastic and Sheppard<br />
rewarded them – not just by their presence on stage, but also by availing themselves afterwards<br />
for autographs and photos. They’re nice. That’s just how they roll.<br />
AMY’S CAMPAIGN<br />
And if you’re not yet convinced of what great guys these are (as well as demonstrably talented<br />
musicians), Amy Sheppard has recently taken up the issue of ‘body shaming’: doing something<br />
to counteract the pressure young people feel to have perfect bodies.<br />
In the public spotlight, nevertheless, she has been posting photos on Instagram and Facebook<br />
without any filters. The attendant caption reads ‘Kiss my fat ass’. That’s so brave in an era where<br />
everyone knows how to Photoshop – and does.<br />
She’s following this up with a song called…yes, you guessed it…’Kiss my fat ass’. As I write, it<br />
is being recorded and should be available by the time we go to press.<br />
Bravo Sheppard…and you’re right: – ‘The Best Is Yet To Come’, I’m sure! •<br />
10 <strong>PNG</strong> ECHO
LAMP FLAPS<br />
by SUSAN MERRELL<br />
Sticky lamp flaps (ribs)<br />
by LYDIA KAILAP<br />
INGREDIENTS<br />
• 2 lamb flaps<br />
• I teaspoon salt<br />
• I cup dark soy sauce<br />
• Half a cup jam (any flavour)<br />
• 2 cloves garlic, crushed<br />
• 1 inch piece ginger chopped finely<br />
• I small chilli – or to taste<br />
• Watercress to garnish<br />
METHOD<br />
Bring a saucepan of salted water (1 teaspoon of salt) to the boil that is large enough to fit the lamb flaps.<br />
Simmer gently until the meat is soft but not yet falling off the bone (around 45 minutes).<br />
Allow to cool.<br />
In the meantime<br />
Mix together the soy sauce, jam, garlic,<br />
ginger and chilli to form a marinade.<br />
Marinate the meat for at least an hour.<br />
Barbecue or grill until the meat is<br />
glazed and sticky.<br />
Garnish with watercress<br />
*The recipe also works well with other cuts of lamb<br />
but if you are using less fatty cuts of lamb, they do<br />
not need to be boiled first.<br />
As seen in the Victoria Market,<br />
Melbourne, Australia.<br />
A lamb flap by any other name…<br />
The popularity in of lamb flaps in <strong>PNG</strong><br />
is hardly surprising: they’re cheap, a<br />
good source of protein and utterly<br />
delicious.<br />
It’s the fat content that makes them<br />
so chin-drippingly delectable (any chef will tell<br />
you that the fat is where the flavour lies) - but it<br />
is the high fat content that fuels the controversy<br />
over the importation of lamb flaps into the Pacific<br />
from New Zealand and Australia.<br />
With problematic and significant levels of<br />
obesity in most Pacific Islands and considering the<br />
calorie content of lamb flaps, Fiji banned their sale<br />
in 2000.<br />
Fiji has the highest death rate from obesitylinked<br />
Type II Diabetes in the world at 188 deaths<br />
per 100,000 people. In major Fijian hospitals there<br />
are three amputations per day (usually lower<br />
limbs) caused by the effects of diabetes. The<br />
population of <strong>PNG</strong> also has significant levels of<br />
obesity resulting in diabetes.<br />
But is it really the fault of the lamb flap?<br />
Fiji’s incidence of diabetes has not abated<br />
since they banned the controversial meat but is,<br />
conversely, increasing.<br />
It’s generally believed that Australians and New<br />
Zealanders do not eat lamb flaps: that they are fed<br />
only to the animals – well that’s what they think.<br />
Really, the very name is enough to turn you off<br />
the product isn’t it? Anything with ‘flap’ in the<br />
name does not sound delicious …or even edible.<br />
And so, in some quite up-market Sydney and<br />
Melbourne restaurants ‘Lamb ribs’ have been<br />
making an appearance on the menus. A lamb flap<br />
by any other name… And what’s more, the doner<br />
kebab beloved of late night revellers is almost<br />
pure lamb flap.<br />
IT’S ALL IN THE PREPARATION<br />
I’m told by our guest chef, Lydia Kailap of Ziah’s<br />
Cafe in Kimbe, West New Britain and previously<br />
of Ricochet Café in Port Moresby, that rendering<br />
the fat in the cooking is a way to minimize the<br />
calories. Here’s her recipe for lamb flaps (it works<br />
well with other cuts of lamb too, she tells me.)<br />
And remember, there is no ‘bad’ food – everything<br />
is good in moderation. •<br />
<strong>PNG</strong> ECHO 11
life’s echoes<br />
Beautiful Southern Bougainville<br />
The Sailfish<br />
A SHORT STORY FROM BOUGAINVILLE<br />
by CHRIS BARIA<br />
When Kuruma arrived at the beach,<br />
the familiar smell of salt and sea<br />
hit his nostrils as he looked up<br />
and down the shoreline. There<br />
was no one around but there were<br />
footprints and drag marks made by canoes on the<br />
sand leading to the waters edge.<br />
Looking out across the bay, he could make out the<br />
canoes even though the sky was overcast. From where<br />
he stood, they looked like chess pieces on a vast<br />
chessboard.<br />
Going by the sun, barely visible through the grey<br />
clouds, Kuruma estimated it was about 3 o’clock. He<br />
had thirty minutes to paddle to the spot where he had<br />
seen a turtle surface last time and two hours to fish.<br />
Kuruma turned around and walked up the stretch<br />
of sand sloping from the waters edge to the edge<br />
of the bushes where he kept his canoe under the<br />
coconut trees.<br />
His canoe was under a sheet of roofing iron exactly<br />
where he’d left it. He lifted the roofing iron, set it<br />
aside and looked into the dugout hull of the canoe<br />
to make sure all his equipment was there. With both<br />
hands, he picked up the canoe by the outrigger and<br />
dragged it out of the bushes onto the beach.<br />
In his tote bag, he took out a 20-pound line<br />
rolled around a 7-inch round and buoyant piece of<br />
softwood and proceeded to fashion a ‘jig rig’. This<br />
was a multi-hooked line for bottom fishing, usually<br />
for baitfish although also ideal for when fish were in<br />
a feeding frenzy.<br />
Next he made a trawling jig, placing it towards the<br />
back of the canoe and the trawling line towards the<br />
front to avoid them getting tangled.<br />
He had been careful to check the four pegs<br />
driven into the outrigger attaching it to the canoe,<br />
remembering another time when he hadn’t checked<br />
and the loose pegs had come off, detaching the<br />
12 <strong>PNG</strong> ECHO
outrigger and leaving him to swim five kilometres<br />
to shore.<br />
Then, with one foot inside, he pushed the canoe into<br />
the water with the other before bringing that foot<br />
inside the canoe too. Picking up the paddle from the<br />
outrigger, he dipped it deep in the water and with one<br />
stroke, sent the small six-metre craft over the crest<br />
of the incoming wave and out into the calmer waters<br />
beyond the break.<br />
Kuruma steadied himself by locking his legs against<br />
the narrow mouth of the canoe before, moving<br />
forward, towards the outrigger frame. He bent over<br />
and reached down into the bottom of the dugout and<br />
brought up the line he had prepared for trawling.<br />
He let out the line as he paddled and once he was<br />
satisfied that there was enough distance between the<br />
lure and the canoe, he stopped and let the string out.<br />
Using three reference points, Kuruma located the<br />
position he was looking for before dropping the<br />
anchor. When the anchor reached the bottom he<br />
moved to the prow of the canoe and fastened the rope<br />
to a 4-inch nail driven into the prow.<br />
BOTTOM FISHING<br />
Satisfied with his position, he dropped the jig rig down<br />
the side of the canoe.<br />
Holding the roll of string with the left hand, he<br />
felt the weight of rod taking the jig down, until, all<br />
of sudden the string became light. Either something<br />
had snapped the line or there was fish swimming<br />
around with the jig. He quickly gathered up the string<br />
dropping it in a heap in the dugout - there were two<br />
small, silver trevally caught on two hooks on the jig.<br />
Bottom fishing had yielded him two excellent baitfish.<br />
He unhooked the fish and dropped the jig down<br />
again until the sinker rod hit the bottom. He jerked it<br />
a couple of times and the line went taut, biting into his<br />
fingers – he had hooked something. Kuruma played<br />
with the fish at the other end of the line by pulling and<br />
letting go of the line until the fish got tired and gave<br />
up. He’d caught a large red emperor. It seemed that<br />
he had interrupted a feeding frenzy.<br />
Unhooking his catch, he dropped the jig back down<br />
quickly to take advantage of the situation. When it<br />
reached the bottom he jerked it up once, twice and<br />
bingo! His hand dropped as the lined straightened with<br />
a powerful tug from the deep. This time it was a trevally<br />
just about the same size as the red emperor. He had<br />
caught enough fish this way and he was ready to trawl.<br />
TRAWLING FOR SAILFISH<br />
Kuruma took an 80-pound line out of his bag with a<br />
large hook attached. He took one of the two small<br />
silver trevally out of the canoe and slipped the large<br />
hook through its gill and into the flesh near the tail.<br />
After more preparations, Kuruma pulled up anchor<br />
before dropping the trawling rig in the water and<br />
letting out a length of the string. When he was<br />
satisfied all was well, he paddled out to stretch the line<br />
slowly, keeping a close watch before setting the line<br />
when he felt that there was enough distance between<br />
the bait and the canoe.<br />
Paddling towards the reef, he felt a nibble on the<br />
line. Three minutes passed before he felt a tug. This<br />
time it hit the line hard and, as if on auto unwind,<br />
the line sped out of the roll as Kuruma dropped the<br />
paddle and grabbed for it.<br />
And then it happened - a twelve-foot long, slim fish<br />
lifted out of the water – a magnificent silver streak<br />
against a setting sun - the fabled sailfish.<br />
As soon as the sailfish re-entered the water, Kuruma<br />
turned the canoe as the old man from the village had<br />
instructed him to do, keeping the line out from under<br />
the outrigger so as to stop the fish from overturning<br />
the canoe.<br />
And there it was again – out of the water, standing<br />
on on its tail with its long sharp spike extending from<br />
it upper lips, pointing to the heavens as if prodding<br />
for deliverance from above – a deliverance that never<br />
came. Its fate had been sealed.<br />
The sailfish continued to pull on the line dragging<br />
the canoe hither and thither before its energy was<br />
finally sapped. As it came alongside the canoe,<br />
measuring its length along the side of the boat,<br />
Kuruma drove the spear straight into the sailfish’s<br />
large head. Kuruma needed all his strength to wrestle<br />
the large fish into the dugout.<br />
Proud and satisfied with his afternoon’s work,<br />
Kuruma turned the canoe homeward, towards the<br />
beach where his wife and eldest son were waiting.<br />
“My dear husband you have killed the boss of the<br />
sea”, his wife said.<br />
He smiled proudly,<br />
“I didn’t know if I could do it but now that I have<br />
done it, I know how to get them.” •<br />
A beach on Bougainville<br />
The fabled sailfish<br />
<strong>PNG</strong> ECHO 13
Concerning Greg…<br />
<strong>PNG</strong> <strong>Echo</strong>’s poet laureate Greg Sheppard (also known to some as<br />
eminent legal counsel) counts the seers, nonsense rhymers and Dr<br />
Seuss as some of his main influences. His poems will sometimes<br />
make you laugh, may even make you cry – but will always make you<br />
thoughtful as he comments on life in rhyming stanzas.<br />
THE FAN<br />
A teary eyed fan meets her pop idol<br />
(looking very much like George<br />
Sheppard)<br />
by GREG SHEPPARD<br />
She lived all alone<br />
in her one bedroom flat,<br />
on the fringe of an uncaring city,<br />
and worked for the folks<br />
at St Vincent de Paul,<br />
who had hired her out of pure pity.<br />
She had toiled in that shop<br />
since her mother passed.<br />
There was nowhere else she could go.<br />
She longed to be<br />
accepted by the others,<br />
but they said she was too fat and slow.<br />
In her bedroom at night,<br />
she took some solace,<br />
with music and her little cat.<br />
Her iPhone, her headphones,<br />
and a YouTube account,<br />
she didn’t want much more than that.<br />
Her favourite band<br />
were top of the pops,<br />
and she tapped her toes to their beat.<br />
Their music made her happy<br />
like nothing else did,<br />
and she played them all night on repeat<br />
One day she heard<br />
on the radio at work,<br />
her idols were coming to town.<br />
She bought a “meet ‘n’ greet”<br />
ticket online,<br />
and counted all the days down.<br />
.On the day of the gig,<br />
she set her alarm,<br />
and jumped out of bed around five,<br />
then caught an Uber<br />
out to the airport<br />
and waited for them to arrive.<br />
The band’s private jet<br />
touched down on time,<br />
but security was tight as a drum.<br />
Her idols were bussed<br />
to their hotel unseen.<br />
She might as well never have come.<br />
She caught a cab,<br />
to the stadium gate,<br />
and stood in the line there all day,<br />
enduring the casual taunts<br />
of the punters,<br />
who lined up behind her to wait.<br />
Inside, she suffered<br />
the supporting acts,<br />
as they proudly strutted their stuff,<br />
but she longed to see<br />
her idols on stage<br />
and felt she had waited enough.<br />
When at last, her band<br />
took to the stage,<br />
she jumped from her seat and screamed.<br />
The drummer pointed<br />
right at her and waved,<br />
She felt she was one of ‘the team’.<br />
As the first loud strains<br />
of their popular hits<br />
belted out through enormous speakers,<br />
her joy was unbridled,<br />
she danced where she stood,<br />
and kicked off her grubby old sneakers.<br />
For about 90 minutes<br />
of glorious fun,<br />
She “belonged’ in the midst of the crowd.<br />
United by the words<br />
of every song,<br />
and she sang along, right out loud.<br />
When the last encore<br />
was finally done,<br />
She rushed to the “meet ‘n’ greet”,<br />
and stood in a line<br />
with her piece of their merch,<br />
while the others trod on her feet.<br />
She wanted to be really cool<br />
when she met them,<br />
and God knows how hard she tried.<br />
When the singer kissed her<br />
and hugged her, she trembled<br />
Then broke down and cried.<br />
He smiled and said<br />
"It's all OK,"<br />
and held her shaking hands,<br />
"I hope your tears<br />
are only for us"<br />
and not for some other bands<br />
She laughed and he gave her<br />
a poster he's signed,<br />
and took a selfie he said he would keep.<br />
"Thanks for coming out, Darling,"<br />
"We love you."<br />
"See you in Sydney next week."<br />
When at last she returned<br />
to her flat late that night,<br />
she laid out his poster on her bed.<br />
And remembered how wonderful<br />
he made her feel<br />
with gesture and some kindly words said<br />
14 <strong>PNG</strong> ECHO
WHAT GOES AROUND<br />
comes around<br />
by ELLA HALL<br />
NOT FOR THE<br />
SQUEAMISH<br />
A Kalifunga culinary delicacy.<br />
My children will tell you I’m a bit of<br />
an obsessive – a fanatic, if you like.<br />
I have been described by various<br />
fruits of my loins as ‘the manners<br />
fanatic’, ‘the grammar fanatic’, ‘the<br />
‘food fanatic’ and, indeed, the second youngest<br />
once described me as ‘the everything fanatic’.<br />
I am perfectly ok with all of that, but it’s my<br />
reputation as a food fanatic that I want to focus on.<br />
SOME WEIRD STUFF<br />
I admit, I eat some weird stuff: chicken’s feet, duck<br />
tongue, jellyfish, my mother’s chicken casserole. I’ve<br />
eaten snake, bull’s penis, deep fried pigs ears, just to<br />
name a few things I have willingly put in my mouth.<br />
Which is not to say I serve this sort of stuff to my<br />
family - I don’t. But, the rule in my house is that<br />
you don’t have to like something, but you do have<br />
to try it.<br />
Everyone is treated the same and that includes<br />
Vop – my adopted daughter who hails from<br />
Kalifunga in the Western Highlands Province. I<br />
cook dinner and she eats it. If she doesn’t like what<br />
I have served, she will be offered an alternative, but<br />
only after she’s actually tasted it.<br />
It’s been lovely to watch her tentatively approach<br />
everything from sausages to jelly cups and watch<br />
her eyes widen with pleasure as she realizes that<br />
just because something looks different to what she’s<br />
used to, it doesn’t mean it doesn’t taste good.<br />
THAT FATEFUL INVITATION<br />
While the husband was up in Hagen, I invited a<br />
friend around to keep Vop and I company. Roslyn<br />
is a local woman, who knows Vop well, Indeed<br />
she’s from the same village and was instrumental in<br />
helping us get Vop in the first place.<br />
So Roz turns up the other day toting a plastic<br />
bag, in which, she declares, she has a present for<br />
Vop. And indeed she does. A lovely big plastic bag<br />
of boiled chicken heads.<br />
Would you like a few moments to re-read that and<br />
compose yourselves?<br />
Ever-thoughtful Roz has cooked these delights up<br />
at home, poured the entire disgusting mass into a<br />
plastic shopping bag and walked for at least half an<br />
hour in 90-degree heat to our door.<br />
And Vop fell on these culinary horrors as if she<br />
was starving.<br />
These critters still had beaks and freaky little<br />
boiled eyelids, People!<br />
And Vop grabs one of these things and starts<br />
sucking on it like an icy pole.<br />
And then, Vop, with juicy boiled chicken brain<br />
goodness dribbling down her chin, grabs one of<br />
these zombie pops and offers it to me, muttering<br />
“Here, Mumma, you eat this one, it’s good.<br />
Very tasty”<br />
Can I get a resounding, “please, NO?”<br />
There is no way on goat’s green earth that I am<br />
putting a whole boiled chicken freaky all-day<br />
sucker in my gob. I swear, its mouth was open and<br />
that little zombie critter was smiling at me.<br />
Yes, I’ve eaten some weird stuff, but I have<br />
never eaten the entire head of any other creature,<br />
especially not one that has been steeped in a<br />
cauldron of salmonella with a side order of staph.<br />
I back away from this horror, with my hands<br />
outstretched and a look of pure disgust on my<br />
face, which, by the way, was a perfectly reasonable<br />
response, I feel.<br />
And Vop says to me, over the sound of her<br />
crunching through skull (breaking the number one<br />
food commandment of never talking with your<br />
mouth full)<br />
“You must try it, Mumma. You don’t have to like<br />
it, but you have to try it”<br />
Hoist by my own petard! What goes around,<br />
surely comes around!<br />
Thinking quickly and with years of children’s<br />
excuses to draw on, I declared that I wasn’t hungry<br />
right NOW, but I’d LOVE to have one for my<br />
dinner later.<br />
There’s a whole plate of the freaky boiled critters<br />
in the ‘fridge. I can hear them laughing at me, and<br />
waiting for me to go to sleep before they summon<br />
their zombie energy and march on their sautéed<br />
neck stumps, up the stairs, to peck me to death in<br />
my sleep. Aaarrrrgggghhh! •<br />
<strong>PNG</strong> ECHO 15
life’s echoes<br />
The view from Port Moresby<br />
Royal Papua New Guinea Yacht Club.<br />
NO CHEESE ON THE PIZZA<br />
but much love on the plate.<br />
<strong>PNG</strong> can be a tricky country to navigate as an<br />
expat. Many find it quite challenging but some of<br />
us come and fall in love with the place and never<br />
want to leave.<br />
Port Moresby from high on a hill<br />
Road travel <strong>PNG</strong> Style.<br />
by TANYA LLOYD<br />
There are many reasons for embarking on the expat life in <strong>PNG</strong>: it’s an<br />
adventure, you need a change of scenery, or maybe it was a decision<br />
made for you by your employer.<br />
Whatever be the case, as an expat, I’ve found one of the key things<br />
that’s needed in <strong>PNG</strong> to successfully navigate life here is flexibility - and<br />
I don’t mean changing dinner plans occasionally either - it’s the flexibility to be able<br />
to conduct everything that you would normally do in your life in a different way.<br />
Expectations tend to get in the way.<br />
If you expect that a planned meeting at a specific time will commence at the<br />
prescribed time, for instance – you’ll likely be disappointed. If you expect that the<br />
agreed on arrangements will be ready as planned – they won’t be.<br />
Want to cook a favourite meal that reminds you of home? By the time you’ve<br />
searched the shelves of the fifth supermarket looking for that vital ingredient it’s<br />
guaranteed you’ll be exhausted and, what’s more, empty handed!<br />
Are you craving a Hawaiian pizza? How do you feel about Hawaiian without the<br />
pineapple? Or even better, pizza without cheese? With stomach grumbling, salivating<br />
16 <strong>PNG</strong> ECHO
Clearing the road for passing traffic.<br />
like a hound, you open the box at home to find the vital<br />
ingredients missing. Oh well.<br />
When you change your attitude into flexible mode<br />
and just ‘go with the flow’ you’ll find that these little<br />
things are just petty annoyances that just prove to<br />
encourage your own creativity and problem solving<br />
skills. For instance, for times like this you will always<br />
have a contingency plan like a fresh pineapple and<br />
some grated cheese in the refrigerator at home.<br />
And isn’t ‘going with the flow’ so necessary on the<br />
roads of Port Moresby (POM)? Patience is a must.<br />
Being in a hurry in POM will provoke the inevitability<br />
of two cars travelling side by side up the Poreporena<br />
Freeway somewhere in the range of 20 kilometres per<br />
hour (kph), each one alternating speeding up to 25kph<br />
then dropping back to 20kph as soon as you’ve changed<br />
lanes. At least one of them will have a shattered<br />
windscreen and be blowing heavy black smoke.<br />
With this very small attitude adjustment, after very<br />
little time you’ll find you’ve become quite practised<br />
at switching to internal air and whispering words of<br />
encouragement to those people trying to get their cars<br />
up that hill: “Come on, you can do it, just a little bit<br />
further.” They usually do make it - making me think<br />
there could be power in my whisperings - a power that<br />
the horn of a car, however loud and often it’s tooted,<br />
doesn’t have.<br />
I’m also told and encouraged by the media<br />
and well-meaning friends that by lowering rigid<br />
expectations and embracing flexibility, I will reap<br />
benefits in increased physical and mental well-being<br />
and perhaps even gain a more peaceful existence.<br />
Certainly, anxiety about turning up late is a thing of<br />
the past for me … everyone else is doing it so it must<br />
be okay?<br />
And very soon you’ll see that you’re assimilating<br />
without even trying!<br />
LOOK FOR THE GOOD<br />
I truly believe that what you put out into the<br />
universe is what you’ll get back. Look for the good<br />
and that’s what you’ll see.<br />
“This would never happen in Australia!”<br />
I once heard someone complain loudly to a<br />
beautifully polite young woman serving at a wellknown<br />
eatery. Well guess what mate? You’re not in<br />
Look for the good and that’s<br />
what you’ll see.<br />
Australia, best you face up to that fact so we can all<br />
get on with living our care free expat lives.<br />
We are blessed to be invited into this diverse<br />
country and even more fortunate to still be young<br />
enough at heart to learn new tricks, no matter what<br />
our age. Embrace your flexibility even when you’re<br />
feeling a little rigid and above all practice kindness<br />
the same kindness that is given to you by the people<br />
of <strong>PNG</strong>. •<br />
<strong>PNG</strong> ECHO 17
health<br />
Collagen<br />
IS IT THE FOUNTAIN OF YOUTH?<br />
It’s the next best thing to sliced bread, according<br />
to the hype – or at least the next big thing after<br />
the discovery of the benefits of omega 3 fatty<br />
acids.<br />
We’re talking hydrolysed, ingestible collagen<br />
that is essentially a beauty treatment (but not only)<br />
that works from the inside out, effectively slowing<br />
(and repairing) the effects of aging.<br />
Collagen is a protein made of amino acids that<br />
naturally occur in our bodies. It makes up 30-40% of<br />
all our bodily proteins and is responsible, in the main,<br />
for the production of connective tissue: Skin, nails,<br />
hair, gut health, joints, tendons, ligaments and muscle<br />
are all dependent on bodily supplies of collagen.<br />
At around the age of 25, our body’s production of<br />
collagen dwindles by around 1% per year. It explains<br />
the visible signs of aging like wrinkles, thinning hair,<br />
brittle nails and also the not so visible signs like joint<br />
pain and lack of joint flexibility.<br />
For many years, the beauty industry has produced<br />
topical skin creams in their skin-care ranges that<br />
contain collagen, although scientific studies concluded<br />
that the molecules in the creams were too large to<br />
penetrate to the desired level of the skin to be truly<br />
effective and suggested that the perceived efficacy<br />
of topical collagen likely came from the other<br />
ingredients in the cream.<br />
Enter ingestible collagen.<br />
COLLAGEN AND ME<br />
Firstly let me be clear: I am not a bio-anything.<br />
Neither am I trained in any science, including<br />
medicine. What’s more, I have inherited fine Celtic<br />
skin (that I largely take for granted).<br />
A saleslady at a beauty bar once grabbed my hand<br />
on which to demonstrate one of her creams:<br />
“Your hands are so soft,” she exclaimed incredulously,<br />
unnecessarily adding<br />
“I guess you don’t spend too much time in the<br />
kitchen.”<br />
What’s more, I have more hair on my head per<br />
square inch than most, albeit fine.<br />
Nevertheless, I have self-prescribed between 10-20<br />
grams of hydrolysed marine collagen per day and<br />
here’s why.<br />
It seems that however genetically blessed we are,<br />
age will always catch us up eventually. Me, I had been<br />
noticing red blotches appearing under the skin on my<br />
forearms. They seemed to appear when I had been<br />
carrying heavy bags – so they’re bruises – but they<br />
aren’t blue - they look like raspberries.<br />
They did not bother me too much until, one day,<br />
I accidentally scratched the surface of one of these<br />
‘raspberries ‘ (the skin on top of these bruises is very<br />
fragile) and it bled as if I nicked my jugular vein. It<br />
was alarming.<br />
And so, as is my wont, Google was consulted. And<br />
so it was that ‘Wiki’ came to the rescue:<br />
Solar purpura …is a skin condition characterized by<br />
large, sharply outlined, 1- to 5-cm, dark purplish-red<br />
ecchymoses appearing on the dorsa of the forearms<br />
and less often the hands. [The accompanying picture<br />
was convincing – they looked like mine]<br />
The condition is most common in elderly people of<br />
European descent. [Oh thanks for that!] It is caused<br />
by sun-induced damage to the connective tissue of the<br />
skin… The lesions typically fade over a period of up to<br />
3 weeks.<br />
It fit perfectly, for although not a sun lover, my<br />
forearms are the part of me most often exposed to<br />
incidental sunshine. I was relieved it wasn’t terminal.<br />
The next Google task was what to do about it.<br />
And so I happened on the link between collagen and<br />
connective tissue and the consumption of hydrolysed<br />
collagen to boost flagging bodily supplies of the<br />
protein to the benefit of skin, nails, hair and all other<br />
functions relying on collagen. The theory is that it will<br />
strengthen the skin on my arms made fragile by sun<br />
damage and depleted collagen supplies.<br />
On the minus side, there have not been extensive<br />
studies – so the jury is out amongst the sceptical.<br />
However, the one study that was quoted many times on<br />
Google sites had had positive results with the sample<br />
finding a 20% improvement in skin tone. What’s more,<br />
the science, from a non-scientists viewpoint, sounded<br />
credible and logical. If lack of collagen was the cause –<br />
boosting collagen was the answer.<br />
The burning questions:<br />
• What form did it take?<br />
• What dosage?<br />
• Where could I buy it?<br />
• Were there any side effects?<br />
Collagen supplements come from two sources –<br />
marine and bovine. It seems that marine collagen is<br />
more bioavailable – meaning easier for the body to<br />
absorb but is more likely to cause allergies (not to the<br />
collagen but to the marine sources) and marine collagen<br />
can also cause hypercalcemia or too much calcium. Once<br />
again this is not the collagen itself but from the source,<br />
especially if the supplement comes from shellfish or<br />
shark’s cartilage – that are both high in calcium.<br />
I chose marine collagen because I have no allergies<br />
to fish and I figured that the calcium would be a bonus<br />
as I also have a vitamin D deficiency (the vitamin you<br />
get from the sun) that contributes to the reduction of<br />
bone density and the onset of osteoporosis. (I find it<br />
ironic that I get enough sun to damage the connective<br />
tissues in my arms but not enough to fulfil my vitamin<br />
D requirements.)<br />
The collagen supplement, in various forms, liquids,<br />
powder and pills, was not hard to find – on the<br />
Internet. It proved more difficult to find in the small<br />
town where I was staying at the time.<br />
But I did find it, in pill form, in a pharmacy. The<br />
chemist assistant kept asking me if I wanted it for<br />
“articulation,” or joints. She looked puzzled when I<br />
told her my reason. Nevertheless, I bought them.<br />
That was a mistake.<br />
The recommended dose, if there are no issues (like<br />
bleeding solar purpura) was 5-10 grams per day<br />
and up to 30 grams if you were aiming to combat a<br />
problem. These HUGE pills contained only 750 mgs.<br />
I’d need a bucketful of them to get the daily dose.<br />
However, I have since found sources of supply at<br />
large chemist outlets in Australia in boxes of 5 gm<br />
powdered sachets and also 100 ml bottles of liquid<br />
collagen that contain 10gms of collagen per bottle.<br />
So, before you buy, check on the amount of collagen<br />
per serve. Some manufacturers simply deal in ‘daily<br />
doses’ not explaining what those doses contain. I’m<br />
led to believe that any amount under 5 grams a day is<br />
not likely to have much effect.<br />
Apart from the side effects already mentioned – that<br />
are, at best, low-risk possibilities and easily avoided if<br />
you’re aware of your allergies, there doesn’t seem to<br />
be any.<br />
With all of this newly-found knowledge, I thought<br />
“why not’?<br />
THE RESULTS:<br />
They told me that it would take at least six weeks<br />
until I noticed any effect – it has now been 10 weeks.<br />
In that time I have only had one raspberry bruise on<br />
my forearm and it faded a lot quicker than the others.<br />
Before I was taking the collagen my arms were never<br />
completely free of them. Hopefully the collagen is<br />
repairing the connective tissue and thickening the<br />
skin on my arms.<br />
My hair is shining – and that’s not easy when your<br />
hair is blond. My nails are also noticeably stronger.<br />
As for my wrinkles – I have noticed that the wrinkles<br />
under my eyes, while having not disappeared, are<br />
noticeable shallower. The skin on my hands, is still<br />
soft – but that’s clearly due to the fact I spend so little<br />
time in the kitchen – just ask that sales assistant!<br />
I intend to persevere with taking the collagen<br />
supplements because it has, so far, improved my<br />
problem of raspberry bruises – any incidental benefits<br />
are pure serendipity. •<br />
18 <strong>PNG</strong> ECHO
MINDFULNESS:<br />
being in your present<br />
writes MIKE JONES<br />
It’s a lovely sunny day. You are walking through<br />
a beautiful park but you are not happy.<br />
Tomorrow you face a trip to the dentist and<br />
you are worried that it will be painful. You<br />
have a knot in the pit of your stomach, maybe<br />
your teeth are clenched and you generally feel very<br />
tense. You remember the last time you had root canal<br />
therapy you fainted because of the pain.<br />
You are re-living the past and rehearsing for the future.<br />
In the meantime, you have been completely<br />
oblivious to the lovely day. You have completely<br />
missed the present because your mind was somewhere<br />
else, colouring your day black.<br />
We can do better than this.<br />
ACCORDING TO BUDDHA<br />
About 2,500 years ago, the man who was later to<br />
become the Buddha realised there was a difference<br />
between pain and suffering: Pain, he said, is an<br />
inevitable part of life, but suffering is not. He found<br />
that there was a way to deal with suffering by being<br />
aware of what our mind is doing, through regular<br />
meditation - not only when we are experiencing pain,<br />
but with regular practice.<br />
In the early 1970s, Jon Kabat-Zinn (now Emeritus<br />
Professor) of the University of Massachusetts<br />
University Hospital, began to explore a secular use<br />
of the practice of mindful meditation to help patients<br />
with intractable chronic pain that was not benefitting<br />
from conventional analgesics. He taught patients how<br />
to refocus their attention away from the pain and to<br />
look for tiny islands of stillness when they perceived<br />
no pain.<br />
Since that time, many other proponents of<br />
mindfulness have brought elements of Buddhist<br />
teaching to the West, not only to assist patients but<br />
to help people become more conscious of what is<br />
happening in the present. That is, to minimise re-living<br />
a past that we cannot change and to stop rehearsing<br />
for a future that may never happen.<br />
Anyone can do it. Mindful meditation is based<br />
on simply sitting quietly, often with eyes closed,<br />
preferably in a peaceful place and concentrating the<br />
mind on monitoring one’s own breath in order to<br />
anchor us in the present – our breath.<br />
So find yourself a pleasant peaceful place to sit.<br />
Close your eyes. Breathe naturally and count your<br />
breaths. Gently let go of any thoughts and be in the<br />
present - your present.<br />
THE PRACTICALITIES<br />
Some meditators silently count breaths – say counting<br />
to ten and then starting back at one. There is no hard<br />
and fast rule about how long a meditation ‘sit’ should<br />
That is, to minimise<br />
re-living a past that we<br />
cannot change and to stop<br />
rehearsing for a future that<br />
may never happen.<br />
be. It’s best that whatever time one can reserve for<br />
mediation, one should sit daily. Many people prefer to<br />
start their day with a 20-minute silent sit – alone or in<br />
the company of others. •<br />
CAUTION: While there are undoubtedly<br />
significant bodily and mental health benefits<br />
in mindful meditating; in creating islands of<br />
peace in our increasingly hectic lives, few if<br />
any meditation proponents would argue that<br />
meditation is a panacea. Most would describe<br />
meditation as being beneficial in supporting<br />
other forms of therapy.<br />
<strong>PNG</strong> ECHO 19
Spirit of the Nation<br />
Children waving goodbye to the Buka ferry<br />
Independence<br />
for Bougainville<br />
The Papua New Guinean government has been given<br />
more than fifteen years to convince Bougainvilleans not<br />
to break away. To this date, its efforts have been dismal.<br />
The move towards independence with the referendum<br />
vote soon to be taken has reached the point of no return.<br />
Bougainville will be independent whatever it takes.<br />
writes CHRIS BARIA<br />
The first time I heard the word ‘referendum’<br />
was back in 1968 through my maternal<br />
uncle who was spending his holidays with<br />
us. I was eight years old at the time.<br />
Uncle James Rutana was the one after<br />
my mother in a family of six; they were close. My father<br />
was also fond of his well-educated brother-in-law with<br />
whom he liked discussing issues of the day.<br />
It was one of those nights, by the light of kerosene<br />
lamp, that my uncle explained to us what a referendum<br />
was. And he knew what he was talking about.<br />
I later learnt that my uncle had been a member of a<br />
group of Bougainvillean tertiary students from Port<br />
Moresby (and maybe other centres as well) who had<br />
formed themselves into a quasi-political movement<br />
called Mungkas Association.<br />
On September 8, 1968, soon after CRA* announced<br />
that there was an estimated 900 million tons of low<br />
grade copper at Panguna, two out of the three members<br />
of the Papua New Guinea House of Assembly and 22<br />
students met in Port Moresby to discuss a referendum<br />
to choose whether Bougainville should remain part<br />
of Papua New Guinea, secede or become part of<br />
the British Solomon Islands Protectorate (now the<br />
Solomon Islands – an independent nation-state).<br />
To effect their goal, and on a purely volunteer basis,<br />
the students used their Christmas break to raise<br />
awareness on the referendum vote that had been<br />
discussed in Port Moresby.<br />
As they started to move around the communities in<br />
Kieta District, a pro-Australian ex-serviceman [named]<br />
who had served with the Coastwatcher Paul Mason<br />
during World War II heard about what the students<br />
were doing. He was one of a small group who had been<br />
advised by Australian missionaries and government<br />
officers that Bougainville ought not to break away from<br />
Papua New Guinea.<br />
The Australian reported the students to the<br />
Australian government – a government that was pro a<br />
political status quo where Bougainville was politically<br />
governed by Port Moresby. As a result, all activities in<br />
preparation for possible independence were stifled by<br />
the Papua New Guinea government.<br />
That was how the first attempt at staging a<br />
referendum ended – the battle was lost, but the war<br />
wasn’t over (both metaphorically and actually).<br />
OF SQUANDERED OPPORTUNITIES…<br />
The failure of this referendum spawned a couple<br />
more unilateral declarations of independence. One on<br />
September 1, 1975 just two weeks before Papua New<br />
Guinea’s independence on September 16, 1975, and<br />
again during the Bougainville conflict on May 17, 1990.<br />
At the start of the conflict in 1990, I, and many others,<br />
believed that had the Bougainville Revolutionary<br />
Army (BRA) gotten their act together they may have<br />
effectively taken independence for Bougainville then.<br />
The Papua New Guinea government had withdrawn<br />
from the island totally, leaving an opportunity for the<br />
BRA to step into the breach.<br />
By then, the Papua New Guinean cause had lost the<br />
sympathy of the Bougainville population when the<br />
security forces started to take out their frustrations<br />
on the civilians when they failed to apprehend the<br />
BRA ‘rebels’. From this, the independence movement,<br />
triggered by the war over the mine at Panguna<br />
and prosecuted by the BRA, gained wide support<br />
throughout Bougainville: from north to south and east<br />
to west.<br />
However, eventually, this support was sorely tested<br />
when, finding there was no enemy to fight some of the<br />
BRA started to mistreat their own people, settling old<br />
scores using the power they had acquired through the<br />
barrel of the gun.<br />
As the young, post-crisis writer Leonard Fong Roka<br />
wrote in 2014:<br />
“The problem with these political manoeuvres was<br />
that the politicians had no power over the reckless<br />
BRA men who, over time, had carved their own minispheres<br />
of influence as they pursued a lawless grab for<br />
the spoils of war gains and the opportunity to remedy<br />
past grievances.”<br />
Independence, at that time, was a rare opportunity<br />
that we were unable to harness. But this was a war<br />
that was not fought by an institutionalized army<br />
with a proper chain of command. This was far more<br />
anarchical with all the attendant risks that flow from<br />
an armed force with a lack of hierarchical authority:<br />
The power of the gun was available to be abused and<br />
it was.<br />
Had independence happened then, by now, we<br />
would have built up an indigenous-based system of<br />
government and organised an economy based on a<br />
wide range of resources and innovations.<br />
In reality, we had our first taste of effective<br />
independence (if not actual) when the <strong>PNG</strong><br />
government imposed an economic blockade on the<br />
island during the war. With supples blocked, people<br />
became innovative; they reinvented hydro power: they<br />
used coconut oil as substitute for diesel fuel: villagers<br />
traded with each other in whatever way they could<br />
either using cash or bartering items and goods.<br />
As the war deepened and the Papua New Guinea<br />
Defence Force (<strong>PNG</strong>DF) came back to Bougainville<br />
to fight and regardless of the rogue antics of some<br />
of the BRA, media personnel and some government<br />
officials in Bougainville stated that all of the people<br />
with whom they had spoken wanted secession and<br />
independence. There was no question of the unity and<br />
total support for the call to independence, they said<br />
And it seems that the word on the street (and<br />
elsewhere) is that things have not changed for this<br />
upcoming independence vote.<br />
Speaking on ABC Radio Australia recently,<br />
Vanuatu-based Australian photojournalist, Ben<br />
Bohane, who was awarded the Bougainville Mission,<br />
Pacific Journalism Grant, said that all Bougainvilleans<br />
20 <strong>PNG</strong> ECHO
with whom he had spoken told him that<br />
they would vote for independence in the<br />
forthcoming referendum.<br />
I believe that the only thing that can stymie<br />
the Bougainvillean march to independence is<br />
lack of registered voters due to their names<br />
not being on the electoral roll and/or a poor<br />
turnout of voters.<br />
However, I am heartened by reports of how<br />
the level of voter enrolment is proceeding<br />
throughout the region and also in the rest of<br />
<strong>PNG</strong>, Solomon Islands and Australia.<br />
IN RETROSPECT<br />
Looking back at those times when a<br />
referendum was illegal; students worked<br />
without funds to raise awareness and educate<br />
their mostly illiterate people on the finer<br />
points of a referendum.<br />
They walked on foot over the mountains<br />
and valleys and along the beaches to bring to<br />
their people the message of a referendum and<br />
the hope of independence – a hope that has<br />
remained with us to this day.<br />
If, before we became disoriented and<br />
disunited due to abuse of power by some of our<br />
fighting men, we were able to stand together<br />
against what we perceived as a common enemy,<br />
then what better reason is there for us to<br />
huddle together once more than the hope of<br />
independence: a hope past generations have<br />
instilled in us and a reality that this generation<br />
has the power to effect - in their honour.<br />
A significant ‘yes’ vote for independence is<br />
going to be very hard for Papua New Guinea<br />
government to ignore. •<br />
(*Cozinc Riotinto of Australia Ltd. was<br />
renamed CRA in 1980 before becoming Rio<br />
Tinto Group)<br />
Kieta - once a thriving harbour<br />
An eerie mist falls over Panguna<br />
<strong>PNG</strong> ECHO 21
INDEPENDENCE FOR<br />
BOUGAINVILLE FROM A<br />
WOMAN’S PERSPECTIVE<br />
by CHRIS BARIA<br />
Mrs Lucy Madoi is a resident of<br />
Arawa. This former capital of<br />
Bougainville is more like a village<br />
today with many, displaced by the<br />
conflict, living and occupying houses<br />
left vacant by mine employees and public servants.<br />
Mrs. Madoi is a widowed mother of three who lived<br />
through the war and moved to Arawa with her now<br />
late husband Steven Madoi when the crisis ended.<br />
“It has not been easy to plan for the future in<br />
Bougainville,” she tells me, “but since my husband<br />
died I have kept myself busy with volunteer work<br />
providing charity work for the needy.”<br />
“I am now the President of ‘Bougainville<br />
Women’s Federation’, which is a voice for women in<br />
Bougainville. Our main activities are mentoring and<br />
grooming younger women to take our place<br />
as leaders in their community.”<br />
It is recognised that women’s groups in<br />
Bougainville were integral to the peace process and<br />
the development of the peace agreement<br />
that brought the war to an end.<br />
And they continue to be influential.<br />
In the 2017 Autonomous Bougainville Government<br />
elections, six women from the Bougainville<br />
Women’s Federation were appointed to be election<br />
observers and in the upcoming vote for Bougainville<br />
independence, the Bougainville Women’s<br />
Federation has undertaken an extensive programme<br />
of voter education, including educating the women<br />
of Bougainville about their participation rights.<br />
Of the upcoming vote Mrs Madoi advises:<br />
“Lobbying should be intensified in the National<br />
Parliament by our members to get support from<br />
other members of parliament - like the New Guinea<br />
Islands who understand our plight. We should also<br />
be lobbying for support with our Pacific Island<br />
neighbours to speak out for us.”<br />
“We must all speak with one voice and leave no<br />
one behind, as we move forward to achieve what<br />
our older people had dreamt about for so long - that<br />
is total independence of Bougainville.” •<br />
BOUGAINVILLE<br />
WOMEN AND<br />
GOVERNMENT<br />
by SUSAN MERRELL<br />
E<br />
xcept for a few districts, Bougainville is<br />
a matrilineal society where ownership<br />
of land is passed down through the female<br />
inheritance line.<br />
Although matrilineal, Bougainville society<br />
is not matriarchal, men still dominate public<br />
life – but women are vocal.<br />
Nevertheless, Bougainville leads the<br />
way when it comes to women’s political<br />
participation and advancement in Papua<br />
New Guinea.<br />
For, unlike the National Parliament of<br />
Papua New Guinea, which currently has<br />
no female members and reserves no seats<br />
for them, the Autonomous Bougainville<br />
Government reserves three of its 33 seats for<br />
women with one of the three awarded<br />
a cabinet position.<br />
Women are free to contest the other seats<br />
but, as I write, there is only one woman,<br />
who has currently won a non-reserved seat,<br />
indicating the prevailing dominance of men<br />
in public life.<br />
The Autonomous Bougainville Government<br />
is addressing this with legislation such as<br />
the ‘Bougainville Community Government<br />
Act’ of 2016 where, at the local level, each<br />
municipal ward must have one female and<br />
one male member and the awarding of the<br />
‘Chair’ must alternate and rotate between<br />
the genders. • Sohano Island, Buka<br />
22 <strong>PNG</strong> ECHO
View from the hospital to the living quarters.<br />
Tears on the last page<br />
of Papua New Guinea<br />
by KEVIN PONDIKOU<br />
The world is a book. And those who have not<br />
travelled have only read one page.<br />
One day, if you’re searching for a different<br />
perspective on life I would recommend<br />
spending some time in a little hospital<br />
far away from the concrete and fast-paced urban<br />
surroundings of<br />
surburbia.<br />
Turn the page with<br />
me as you leave<br />
the urban scenery,<br />
where everyone<br />
has a phone and<br />
the world happens<br />
only as it’s updated<br />
on a social media.<br />
Leave the plush,<br />
air-conditioned<br />
surrounds of the<br />
plane as you travel<br />
from Kiunga Airport<br />
through the searing heat along the only sealed road in<br />
town and onto the Kiunga-Tabubil Highway, through<br />
a forest of sago palms, rubber trees and trees that are<br />
home to various Birds of Paradise.<br />
As you wipe the sweat from your brow from the<br />
tropical humidity of the plains of North Fly District,<br />
I’m writing this down for<br />
memories sake as something to<br />
read in years to come about the<br />
trials and tribulations of delivering<br />
health care to the citizens of<br />
remote Papua New Guinea.<br />
Dr Pondikou<br />
and his healthy<br />
patient.<br />
you have entered an alternate reality.<br />
If you’re still willing to turn more pages, then come<br />
along with me as we step off the PMV bus with<br />
groceries purchased from Kiunga town - 28 km away -<br />
as here, there are no shops, only the school canteen and<br />
small village canteens.<br />
Here, we are in an<br />
unstable reality. It is a<br />
place where time stands<br />
still one moment and takes<br />
a huge leap forward the<br />
next as traditional culture<br />
is mixed with modern<br />
conveniences, lifestyles and<br />
attitudes.<br />
Here on the last page of<br />
Papua New Guinea, you’ll<br />
find that there are Papua<br />
New Guineans living their<br />
lives the best way they<br />
know how. We move along<br />
with our hurts and insecurities and mistakes from the<br />
past, present and future.<br />
Take a closer look at the cards that were dealt to<br />
our citizens here in remote, rural Papua New Guinea.<br />
There are teardrops on the last page of Papua New<br />
Guinea. •<br />
OPERATING<br />
IN THE DARK<br />
It was a rainy day, just like any<br />
other rainy day at Rumingae<br />
District Hospital in Kiunga, Western<br />
Province. There were ward rounds<br />
to do, patients to be discharged, calls<br />
to be made to outposts to deal with<br />
any new cases or emergencies - and<br />
arrangements to be made if there<br />
were.<br />
It had been a full day and I was<br />
heading home, but not before I<br />
checked in with a woman in labour<br />
who had given birth to large babies<br />
previously (one resulting in a<br />
caesarean section) and who was past<br />
her due date.<br />
Earlier in the morning, after the<br />
first ward round, I had called an<br />
obstetrician colleague concerning her<br />
case. Being past her due date, she needed a delivery plan<br />
and I was happy when an agreed one was put into place.<br />
Already, the woman was in considerable pain and<br />
was asking for a caesarean section but, in Papua New<br />
Guinea, there are rules we have to abide by when it<br />
comes to doing this operation and one is that there must<br />
be a good clinical reason for it and there didn’t seem to<br />
be one - even though she was a high-risk mother.<br />
At that stage, there was nothing to be done but to wait<br />
and see how things progressed, so I left for home, asking<br />
the staff to keep me updated on her condition.<br />
At 7 pm I got a “please call me” from the ward (my<br />
radio has been dead and as a result staff are calling me<br />
on my phone: - I hope to get a new radio in the near<br />
future) - it was about the woman in labour. I went to the<br />
ward fully expecting to operate.<br />
However, after doing a clinical review I opted to give<br />
her at least two more hours in order to give her the<br />
best chance of delivering naturally. I decided that if she<br />
hadn’t delivered by 10pm then it was likely she would<br />
need the operation.<br />
We prepared to do the caesarean section as time ticked<br />
by with no result.<br />
It was late and it was raining, nevertheless, when<br />
I called Muba and Sister Kamura and sent Bob our<br />
security guard to check Sister and Mr Dusi as well<br />
as Tommy and Frank, the medical students, they<br />
came quickly.<br />
We had no anaesthesia, so doing a spinal block was my<br />
only option. It’s a very tricky and precise procedure and<br />
I was not confident that my first attempt had hit the right<br />
spot, so I did a second one and this achieved the level of<br />
numbness required for the operation.<br />
Then came the blackout!<br />
Electricity supply is always unreliable here but<br />
thankfully Tommy had his phone torch with him<br />
so I could see to administer the bupivacaine spinal<br />
anaesthetic.<br />
Because of the off again, on again electricity here, staff<br />
routinely carry torches and all of our torches went on<br />
providing the light I used to begin the caesarean section.<br />
Sister Parila had a big torch and she stood on a stool to<br />
shine it onto our operating field.<br />
Our blood pressure machine was operating on its<br />
battery while Sister Kamura got the foot pump suction<br />
machine working by pedalling. When we didn’t need it,<br />
we would tell her to stop pedalling and she would only<br />
start again when we needed it.<br />
My two operating assistants were Muba and Frank.<br />
As luck would have it, just as I was about to incise the<br />
uterus, the power came on. It was not a moment too<br />
soon as, thanks to the good light, I was able to get the<br />
baby out before I needed to deal with the complication<br />
of a placental cord snapping.<br />
I’m so glad that Sister Dusi had prayed before we<br />
started operating under torchlight. We had delivered a<br />
healthy 3kg baby girl.<br />
So all’s well that ends well thanks to the dedicated<br />
effort of our staff and students (Medical and CHW)<br />
who work in this remote place in such dire and trying<br />
circumstances. •<br />
<strong>PNG</strong> ECHO 23
Some children are forced to forage on rubbish tips<br />
Orphans<br />
There is no accurate data for orphans in Port Moresby. Despite<br />
the Melanesian culture of ‘taking care of our own,’ thousands of<br />
children still walk the streets begging for food and money, whilst<br />
some sell stuff on the roadsides to make a living. The country has<br />
no working social network systems in place and no orphanages,<br />
though there are a few safe homes and outreach centres who give<br />
food and clothes to orphans. The plight of these children continues<br />
to go unheard. Here is just one of their stories.<br />
24 <strong>PNG</strong> ECHO
y REBECCA RUNDUALI<br />
It was raining on that morning, 16 years ago,<br />
when my mother died from Tuberculosis (TB)<br />
in the Port Moresby General Hospital TB ward.<br />
My father had long deserted us, I didn’t know<br />
what to do. I was only 15 years old then. The<br />
doctor helped me fill out the papers and gave me the<br />
death certificate. They put her lifeless body into the<br />
morgue - I had no money to pay for a car to bring her<br />
body home to pay our last respects.<br />
I walked in the rain from Three Mile to our home<br />
in Konedobu. When I arrived, my younger siblings<br />
were sitting outside our little tin house collecting<br />
water from the raindrops with pots. Their faces<br />
looked tired and hungry. They ran to me hoping I<br />
was bringing food.<br />
With a heavy heart, I hugged them to me and<br />
told them that Mama had died. I told them not to<br />
cry as we needed to work together and find money<br />
to bury her.<br />
My twin sisters were nine years old then and our<br />
baby brother was seven: they were small for their<br />
age. I told the three of them to stay by the house as<br />
I had to go look for our father. He was a policeman<br />
at the Port Moresby Police Station. I set out to walk<br />
from Konedobu to downtown Port Moresby for the<br />
second time.<br />
When I turned up at the Police Station, his new wife<br />
was there, she swore at me and told me to leave but<br />
some of the officers brought me in to the precinct to<br />
see my Dad, anyway.<br />
I told my father that Mama had died expecting that<br />
he’d help us but he told me to leave his office, that it<br />
was none of his business and that she was not his wife<br />
nor were we his children.<br />
I wanted to scream, to argue, but I couldn’t<br />
because I knew if I did, I would cry and I wasn’t<br />
going to cry in front of him and his new wife who<br />
had followed me in. I had far too much pride for<br />
that. I walked back home alone that afternoon, just<br />
as it was getting dark.<br />
AFTER WE BURIED MAMA<br />
It took the four of us two months to raise the<br />
money (by selling fish and empty tins and bottles<br />
that we collected) to buy a coffin and another<br />
month to raise money to pay for the land at Kilakila<br />
to bury our mother.<br />
The settlement we lived in was kind to us,<br />
one of our neighbors transported us in his truck<br />
and another women gave us a nice ‘Meri blouse’<br />
for our mother to wear. We buried her on a<br />
Saturday morning.<br />
Her family did not bother to come; they had disowned<br />
her many years before when she married my father.<br />
A month later, my father turned up with his new<br />
wife and took our baby brother away. I fought him,<br />
but he beat me and left with little Johnny, I never saw<br />
him again.<br />
It was just the three of us left. We carried on what our<br />
mother used to do and sold doughnuts and fried fish in<br />
downtown Port Moresby to survive.<br />
While I sold the fried fish and doughnuts, the twins<br />
would collect the empty bottles and tins discarded by<br />
the city residents.<br />
Life was good; at least we had a roof over our heads<br />
and food to eat at the end of the day.<br />
I promised them that, the next year, I’d put them in<br />
school and they were so excited. We used the profit<br />
from our food sales to buy our food to eat and saved<br />
the money from the sales of empty cans and bottles for<br />
their schooling.<br />
TB STRIKES AGAIN<br />
After a year, one of my sisters started getting sick,<br />
she lost a lot of weight so we took her to the clinic<br />
and were told that she had TB – the disease our<br />
mother had died from. Later that month, my other<br />
sister also went down with TB.<br />
I couldn’t let the twins die, they were all I had: they<br />
were my family. The nurse said they had to eat good<br />
food and take their six months’ supply of medicine in<br />
order to get better.<br />
I did the best I could, but within two months, they<br />
had both died.<br />
They died a day apart, first Barbie then Nancy. Though<br />
I begged Nancy to not leave me, she said she was so tired<br />
and that her twin and her Mama were waiting for her, so<br />
I told her to close her eyes and go to them.<br />
I left them in the morgue and walked home.<br />
The next day I woke up covered in my own sweat<br />
and I knew I too had TB. I slept all day, praying for<br />
death to take me - it had already taken my mama and<br />
my two beautiful sisters - it had left me with nothing.<br />
I lay on the floor of our tin house the whole week,<br />
too weak and sick to move.<br />
Before that week was out, a man from the<br />
settlement, during a drunken binge, broke into<br />
our little tin house and raped me, I was too weak<br />
to fight, too weak to scream for help, and just laid<br />
there as he raped me, beat me up and pulled me out<br />
into the darkness.<br />
He thought I was dead. He’d pushed me into<br />
the drain that ran at the back of the settlement.<br />
Eventually, I was discovered by a ‘white’ couple who<br />
called an ambulance to take me to the hospital.<br />
It took me three weeks to recover during which<br />
time I was too sick to do anything. My father was<br />
a police officer but I could not go to him - he had<br />
already rejected me twice.<br />
I couldn’t pay the admission fee or the ward fee but<br />
the nurse was kind enough and let me go without any<br />
payment.<br />
I went back home, determined to bury my little<br />
sisters, so I, once again, started selling fried fish and<br />
collecting empty tins and bottles to sell.<br />
It took me almost eight months to save enough<br />
(adding it to the money the twins had saved for<br />
school) but when I went back to the morgue, it was<br />
too late - they were not there.<br />
I was told that the unclaimed bodies had all been<br />
buried in an unmarked grave at Nine Mile Cemetery<br />
two months previously. I cried for what was an<br />
eternity, my mind screamed, I couldn’t accept that<br />
their little bodies, were dumped into one big hole<br />
with so many others. The pain was unbearable.<br />
I returned to my tin house at the edge of the<br />
settlement, and continued, as before, selling fish and<br />
collecting empty bottles and tins to sell.<br />
LIFE THESE DAYS<br />
I’ve been selling fried fish ever since and I continue<br />
to search for my little brother because he is my only<br />
family. I heard a couple of years ago that my father<br />
had retired and moved back to his former home in<br />
Morobe. And one day, when I have saved enough,<br />
maybe I’ll go to Morobe and look for my little<br />
brother - but perhaps this is just wishful thinking.<br />
I still pray for him, every night before I go to sleep.<br />
I hope he’s okay, I hope he went to school, and I<br />
hope he’s working, I also sometimes pray that he<br />
would come back and search for me.<br />
Anyway, these days, I have many friends, other<br />
women who have similar stories to me - some sell<br />
food and goods on the roadside to survive as do I,<br />
while others sell their bodies – but not me - I know<br />
my mother and sisters are watching down from<br />
Heaven and might be ashamed of me if I did that. •<br />
The character in the story is now 31 years old and still lives in the tin house she used to share with her mother<br />
and three siblings. She tells me that she started a rumor around the settlement that she was infected with<br />
HIV & Aids so no one bothers her, not even the drunkards.<br />
<strong>PNG</strong> ECHO 25
travel<br />
PLANTATION ISLAND RESORT<br />
taking corporate<br />
responsibility seriously.<br />
Planting coral on the<br />
artificial reef<br />
I met the genial Alex Wilson while he was Manager at the Grand Pacific Hotel in Port Moresby. He’s now<br />
moved on and is managing Plantation Island Resort in Fiji where he loves to welcome visits from Papua<br />
New Guineans and people he met during his time in <strong>PNG</strong>. I have been one of those lucky people. This is<br />
what I found.<br />
writes SUSAN MERRELL<br />
I<br />
arrived at Plantation Island on a one-hour ferry ride from Port Denarau<br />
in Nadi - windblown but relaxed.<br />
There was a welcoming party on the jetty: singing troubadours with shell<br />
necklaces to greet us, the newest arrivals.<br />
In the achingly blue waters, not far from the beach, was the children’s<br />
water playground: a series of floating and fixed obstacles for the children to<br />
climb over, swim to and to dive off. It looked like fun. I wondered: were adults<br />
allowed to play too? Shoals of fish were swimming under and around the pylons<br />
of the jetty – and yes, the palm trees were swaying. Heavenly!<br />
I was staying at the adult’s-only ‘Lomani’ part of the island and my room was<br />
a cool oasis with a lawn at the back that led directly to the beach. It was perfect<br />
– the epitome of a tropical idyll but with all the mod cons (including a backyard<br />
Jacuzzi) and a welcome bottle of ice-cold white wine to greet me.<br />
This is some of the beneficial effects of tourism - along with boosting the<br />
economy and providing local employment, it also gives us the comfort<br />
of modern living to enhance the tropical experience. Did I mention the<br />
swimming pools?<br />
But industry has its detrimental effects - and so too tourism. In particular I am<br />
talking about environmental concerns and the how the influx of tourists affects<br />
local life, habits and customs, sometimes for the better but too often for the worse.<br />
Plantation Island Resort management is tackling these things in its own<br />
quiet way.<br />
26 <strong>PNG</strong> ECHO
A friendly local with<br />
the children’s water<br />
park in view<br />
Did you know that the<br />
presence of stingrays<br />
ensures a clean shoreline by<br />
keeping down the seaweed?<br />
A sandbar lunch<br />
REEF REGENERATION<br />
The effects of climate change and human<br />
encroachment are nowhere as evident as in the<br />
Pacific. Reports of rising seas, dying coral reefs and<br />
the depletion of fish stocks are becoming too familiar.<br />
What’s more, sometimes, in our enthusiasm<br />
to experience the unfamiliar and the exotic, we<br />
inadvertently do damage to those things that<br />
fascinate and attract us.<br />
Manager, Alex Wilson tells of the how the daily<br />
feeding of the trigger fish – an activity beloved of the<br />
guests - was found to be having a detrimental affect<br />
on the surrounding coral reef. As a result of the feeding,<br />
the trigger fish no longer ate their traditional food –<br />
sea snails - and the sea snails, without their natural<br />
predators, were increasing and decimating the coral.<br />
However, in spite of this little hiccup, it hasn’t<br />
stopped Alex harnessing the enthusiasm of his<br />
guests to participate in the ecological well-being of<br />
the local environment. (Although, he has stopped<br />
feeding the trigger fish).<br />
The island management has a well-established reef<br />
regeneration program whereby the guests can plant<br />
a piece of coral and map its progress on subsequent<br />
visits and Alex encourages them to participate in the<br />
plantings with enticements such as a picnic on the<br />
sandbar in the middle of the lagoon afterwards. He<br />
does likewise with the regular clean-up-the-beach<br />
days. Picking up a bit of rubbish or planting a coral<br />
seems a small price for such a delightful reward and<br />
the enhanced community spirit and camaraderie is its<br />
own reward too.<br />
The children especially like being involved and<br />
there is a venue where they can make a fish house<br />
out of sand, stone and cement to plant on the reef.<br />
These fish houses are somewhere that fish can<br />
hide to get away from predators - a necessity of a<br />
balanced ecology.<br />
Did you know that the presence of stingrays ensures<br />
a clean shoreline by keeping down the seaweed?<br />
Plantation Island is also planting sea grapes in the<br />
ocean, (known as sea caviar, because it pops in your<br />
mouth, similar to the fish eggs). Alex tells me it is a<br />
super food. Sea grapes are a seaweed packed with<br />
vitamins and minerals. Considered a good source of<br />
vitamins A and C, calcium, zinc and iron, they also<br />
<strong>PNG</strong> ECHO 27
Making fish houses<br />
contain a high level of vegetable protein per calorie<br />
and a good amount of omega 3 fatty acids too.<br />
Which leads us to Plantation Island’s other<br />
corporate concerns…<br />
…THE WELL-BEING OF THE LOCAL<br />
EMPLOYEES ON PLANTATION ISLAND<br />
Diabetes Type II is rife in Fiji (and many other<br />
Pacific countries, such as <strong>PNG</strong>, are not far behind<br />
statistically). Plantation Island resort has three staff<br />
members with lower-limb amputation as a result of<br />
the disease.<br />
Out of concern for the health of his staff – of<br />
which there are 280 – Alex set up a health check.<br />
He was alarmed at the results. Generally, his staff<br />
was overweight and sedentary and their health<br />
check indicated this with the inherent diabetic<br />
warning signs.<br />
He noticed that it was usual for his staff to eat a<br />
big meal late at night that was often refined, fatty,<br />
convenience foods and that they did little exercise.<br />
He also noticed how alarmingly young many of them<br />
were when they passed away.<br />
Leading the way by example, Alex now walks every<br />
Monday morning (at 6 am) with all staff that are<br />
present and on duty. He doesn’t take “no” for an<br />
answer. He says he’s noticed an enormous change.<br />
While I was on the Island, he was also playing host<br />
to celebrated New Zealand chef, Colin Chung and<br />
hospitality trainer, Greg Cornwall of Pacific Islands<br />
Resort Consultants who were conducting staff<br />
training on how to use and serve local ingredients in<br />
new and modern ways.<br />
28 <strong>PNG</strong> ECHO
Chung believes that local ingredients have been ignored in favour of imported<br />
goods due to an erroneous belief that the local product is not good enough.<br />
“It’s just a case of knowing how to use them,” says Chung, who rightly points out<br />
that the nutritional value of the local products surpasses that of refined imports.<br />
Indeed, using local ingredients, as opposed to imports, has many benefits - for<br />
the economy, for employment and also for health generally. Chung tells me, for<br />
instance, that bitter gourd - widely available in Fiji - has properties that lowers<br />
blood sugar.<br />
I interrupted the training in the middle of Chung overseeing the preparation of<br />
food for a Manager’s cocktail party that evening on the beach, which I happily<br />
attended.<br />
The food was innovative and delicious and most of the recipes can be found in<br />
Chung’s cook book, Kana Vinaka,Contemporary Island Cuisine.<br />
My favourite was the smoked fish pate – simple to make and delicious. (see<br />
recipe)<br />
Kudos to the management of Plantation Island Resort for taking the lead in<br />
addressing environmental and health concerns on their small patch. •<br />
Kana Vinaka is published by Pacific Islands Resort Consultants and you can<br />
find out more detail on its availability from www.colinskitchen.co.nz<br />
The beach at the end of my garden<br />
<strong>PNG</strong> ECHO 29
my job<br />
MY JOB<br />
Sharing his employment<br />
experiences this month is...<br />
Justice<br />
George Manuhu CSM<br />
Q | What is your job title?<br />
Judge of Supreme and National Courts<br />
Q | What qualifications do you need for this job?<br />
Five years of experience as a lawyer<br />
Q | Where and how did you obtain yours?<br />
I was a lawyer with the Public Solicitors Office for four years and I was a District<br />
Court Magistrate for 11 years.<br />
Q | Was this a<br />
true vocation<br />
for you or did<br />
you fall into it<br />
accidentally?<br />
I always wanted to<br />
be a lawyer and after<br />
I became a lawyer I<br />
wanted to be a Judge.<br />
“When I was a child,<br />
I wanted to be a radio<br />
announcer because I<br />
love music.”<br />
Q | What type of personality would you recommend to follow<br />
this line of work?<br />
Someone who is patient, is a good listener, is compassionate but fair, courageous<br />
and firm in his decisions.<br />
Q | What are your main duties?<br />
In the National Court, I deal with criminal cases. I preside over all criminal cases<br />
from a simple assault to wilful murder. In the Supreme Court, I preside over<br />
appeals, reviews and constitutional matters.<br />
Q | Who are you currently working for?<br />
As a Judge, I work for the Independent State of Papua New Guinea.<br />
Q | Did your job entail a long training period and an arduous<br />
climb up the corporate ladder after you completed your studies<br />
or not?<br />
Yes. I was Chief Magistrate of Papua New Guinea before I was appointed as Acting<br />
Judge and subsequently as Judge.<br />
Q | What and where are opportunities for people with your<br />
qualifications?<br />
A lawyer can become a Magistrate, a Judge, a politician, a diplomat, a consultant, a<br />
CEO or a businessman.<br />
Q | What attracted<br />
you to the job?<br />
My sense of justice, fairness and<br />
compassion for others, especially those who come into conflict with the law.<br />
Q | What did you want to be when you<br />
were a child?<br />
When I was a child, I wanted to be a radio announcer because I love music.<br />
Q | What is the best part of your job?<br />
When I make a good decision.<br />
Q | The worse part?<br />
When I am asked to impose the death penalty.<br />
Q | If you could, today, change course and be and do<br />
something else, would you?<br />
Yes<br />
Q | …and what would that be?<br />
I want to be a preacher.<br />
30 <strong>PNG</strong> ECHO
PROOOFESSSSSSSSIIOOONNNAAAL<br />
AAACCCCOOOUNNNTTTAAANNNTTTSSSS<br />
MERRELL<br />
ASSOCIATES<br />
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fffffffiiiiiiiixeeeeeeeedd--pppprrrrrrrriiiiiiiicccccccceeeeeeee quuuuuuooooooootttteeeeeeee....<br />
TTTeeeeeeeellllllll:: +6611 2 9999660 44411444444<br />
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PACIFIC<br />
PERSPECTIVES<br />
PUBLISHERS OF<br />
<strong>PNG</strong> ECHO &<br />
REDEEMING MOTI<br />
WITH<br />
DR SUSAN MERRELL