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<strong>Gateway</strong><br />
FREE AUTUMN <strong>2019</strong><br />
To Canyon Country and the Grand Circle<br />
Hike Willis Creek Canyon<br />
Kayak Glen Canyon<br />
Musings from the Grand Canyon<br />
www.<strong>Gateway</strong>toCanyonCountry.com 1
Winter Hours:<br />
November 1-<br />
February 28<br />
8:45 am - 2:45 pm<br />
7 Days a Week<br />
Summer Hours:<br />
March 1 -<br />
October 31<br />
7:45 am - 4:15 pm<br />
7 Days a Week<br />
Hiking Tours Depart<br />
Every 30 Minutes<br />
$48 00* Adults<br />
Per Person. Includes<br />
Navajo Nation Permit Fee.<br />
$28 00* Children<br />
8-12 Years Old. Per Person.<br />
Includes Navajo Nation<br />
Permit Fee.<br />
0-7 Years FREE<br />
All Tours Are Guided<br />
THINGS TO BRING:<br />
HIKERS:<br />
• Bottled Water<br />
• Closed-Toe Hiking Shoes<br />
• Sun Screen & Hat<br />
Hiking Tours Depart Every 30 minutes<br />
TO BOOK CALL:<br />
928.640.1761<br />
www.antelopelowercanyon.com<br />
book@lowercanyontours.com<br />
*Prices subject to change.<br />
2 <strong>Gateway</strong> to Canyon Country
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www.<strong>Gateway</strong>toCanyonCountry.com 3
Dispatch from the Editor<br />
This dispatch is being written from Point<br />
Imperial, an overlook on the Grand Canyon’s<br />
North Rim with a sublime view to the east. Less<br />
than five feet in front of me the ground drops<br />
away and away and away through nine rock layers,<br />
and finally ends 5,800 feet below me at the<br />
Colorado River. From my vantage I can see a<br />
little green sliver of it, which includes Kwagunt<br />
Rapid, far below me.<br />
The Grand Canyon, celebrated its 100th anniversary<br />
of being a national park this year, and<br />
due to that milestone there has been a lot of discussion<br />
about the Grand Canyon this year, and<br />
a lot of events and festivals to commemorate<br />
our great love and appreciation for this special<br />
place; a place that is certainly one of the greatest<br />
on the planet.<br />
The crown that is the Grand Circle is emblazoned<br />
with many spectacular gems, among them<br />
Zion, Bryce, Arches, Canyonlands, Monument<br />
Valley, The Wave, Antelope Canyon, Horseshoe<br />
Bend. In my opinion, the shiniest gem in<br />
the Grand Circle’s crown is the Grand Canyon.<br />
Just sitting on its edge, looking out across<br />
it peaks, pyramids, buttes, towers and numerous<br />
sidecanyons, is a sublime experience.<br />
And exploring the Grand Canyon from floor<br />
level reveals so much more. I had the great,<br />
great fortune of being a Grand Canyon river<br />
guide for eight seasons and I can tell you that<br />
seeing the Grand Canyon from the bottom looking<br />
up is just as amazing – if not more so –<br />
than seeing it from the top. And from my eight<br />
years as a river guide inside the Grand Canyon<br />
I can also tell you this: The Grand Canyon is<br />
an amazing, singular paradise. And inside it, if<br />
you’re fortunate to spend a good amount of time<br />
exploring it, you’ll find another thousand hidden<br />
paradises. You’ll find them tucked at the back<br />
of Elves Chasm, or Tapeats Creek. The view<br />
from the top of Nankoweap Trail. Splashing<br />
through Monsoon pools in Tuckup Canyon. The<br />
sandstone pillar, standing like an ancient sundial,<br />
when you hike from Hermit Camp to Granite<br />
Camp. And many others.<br />
I spent eight seasons as a Grand Canyon river<br />
guide. But here’s a strange thing. I’ve visited<br />
the rim of the Grand Canyon fewer than ten<br />
times, even though I live only two and a half<br />
hours from either rim.<br />
My friends, especially those who live outside<br />
of the Grand Staircse, are always astounded to<br />
hear that I’ve only been to the rims of the Grand<br />
Canyon five or six times. But there’s a good<br />
reason why: remember that thing I said above,<br />
about the Grand Canyon having a thousand little<br />
hidden pockets of paradise, splendor,<br />
wonder hidden inside of it? The same<br />
holds true for Zion, Arches, Canyonlands<br />
and Monument Valley. They all<br />
have dozens or hundreds of their own<br />
little paradises tucked away inside of<br />
them, and I spend a good bit of my free<br />
time finding them, and exploring them.<br />
And contemplating them. And those<br />
places are just the paradises inside gems<br />
of the crown. Within the Grand Circle<br />
itself lie thousands upon thousands<br />
more such places. If I could grant myself<br />
five lifetimes, I still couldn’t visit<br />
all of them.<br />
So happy 100th birthday Grand Canyon!<br />
To me, it seems silly – pure human<br />
hubris – to celebrate the 100th birthday,<br />
or anniversary of a place that’s<br />
been around for millions of years. Perhaps<br />
a better way of looking at it is this<br />
year marks the 100th anniversary of the<br />
day humans were wise enough to realize<br />
that a place on earth had value beyond<br />
what could be extracted from it.<br />
Much of that credit needs to go to<br />
President Theodore Roosevelt who designated<br />
the Grand Canyon a National<br />
Monument in 1908 (declaring it a national<br />
park was outside the scope of his<br />
presidential powers).<br />
To President Roosevelt the Congressmen<br />
who designated the Grand<br />
Canyon a national park preserving it<br />
for my and my daughter’s generation, I<br />
thank you, and salute your foresight.<br />
Steven Law<br />
Editor<br />
<strong>Gateway</strong><br />
to Canyon Country<br />
is produced four times a year by the<br />
staff of the<br />
Lake Powell Chronicle,<br />
P.O. BOX 1716, Page, AZ 86040.<br />
Copyright <strong>2019</strong> News Media Corp.<br />
Phone 928.645.8888<br />
Fax 928.645.2209<br />
Publisher<br />
Mike Caywood<br />
mcaywood@lakepowellchronicle.com<br />
Editor<br />
Steven Law<br />
slaw@lakepowellchronicle.com<br />
Contributors<br />
Steven Law<br />
Nicole M. Anderson<br />
Phil Clark<br />
Composing<br />
Marty Sisk<br />
msisk@lakepowellchronicle.com<br />
Advertising<br />
Ed Pease<br />
epease@lakepowellchronicle.com<br />
Norma Tsinnijinnie<br />
ntsinnijinnie@lakepowellchronicle.com<br />
Circulation<br />
Jim Blittersdorf<br />
John Baker<br />
Connect With Us:<br />
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www.<strong>Gateway</strong>toCanyonCountry.com<br />
www.LakePowellChronicle.com<br />
4 <strong>Gateway</strong> to Canyon Country
Pow Wow Trading Post<br />
Specializing in<br />
Native<br />
American Arts<br />
& Crafts<br />
635 Elm Street, Page, Arizona<br />
powwowtradiingpost.com • 928.645-2140<br />
www.<strong>Gateway</strong>toCanyonCountry.com 5
<strong>Gateway</strong> to Canyon Country<br />
Autumn <strong>2019</strong><br />
CONTENTS<br />
6 <strong>Gateway</strong> to Canyon Country
Favorite Hike:<br />
Navajo Mountain to<br />
Rainbow Bridge<br />
Page 10<br />
A Slice of Cake on a Slice of Beach<br />
In a Slice of Paradise<br />
A smoothwater kayak in Glen Canyon<br />
Page 24<br />
Musings from the Grand Canyon<br />
Page 30<br />
By Phil Clark<br />
By Steven Law<br />
By Nicole M. Anderson<br />
Photo, this page by Steven Law: Desert Rapture.<br />
Hikers in Vermilion Cliffs National Monument.<br />
Cover Photo by Steven Law: River Revelry.<br />
Sharon Woodard enjoys a day kayaking in Glen<br />
Canyon.<br />
www.<strong>Gateway</strong>toCanyonCountry.com 7
928.484.1117<br />
880 Haul Rd.,<br />
Page, AZ<br />
Comforts of Home<br />
At Country, hospitality is more personal.<br />
A welcoming smile, breakfast on a real<br />
plate, a complimentary Wi-Fi connection<br />
to those you love. Enjoy the comforts that<br />
make you feel like family.<br />
Complimentary Hot Breakfast<br />
Complimentary High-Speed Wi-Fi<br />
Read It & Return Lending Library<br />
8 <strong>Gateway</strong> to Canyon Country
New Owners • New Name<br />
(formerly Flying M Restaurant)<br />
Grand Opening<br />
Everybody Welcome!<br />
“Come try our hog wild fries”<br />
614 N. Main,<br />
Panguitch, Utah<br />
435-676-8008<br />
MARBLE CANYON LODGE<br />
OPEN YEAR ROUND<br />
www.marblecanyoncompany.com<br />
Located on the<br />
Colorado River<br />
Established 1926<br />
125 Miles North of Flagstaff On<br />
The Colorado River at Lees Ferry<br />
Fishing • Hiking<br />
History<br />
GROUP FACILITIES & RATES<br />
Motel • Restaurant<br />
Fishing Supplies • Landing Strip<br />
Boat Storage • Trading Post<br />
Indian Jewelry & Rugs<br />
Gas Station • Convenience Store<br />
Coin-op Laundry • U.S. Post Office<br />
1-800-726-1789<br />
1-928-355-2225<br />
Mailing Address:<br />
P.O. Box 6001,<br />
Marble Canyon, AZ 86036<br />
Call or Write<br />
www.<strong>Gateway</strong>toCanyonCountry.com 9
favorite hike<br />
Navajo Mountain to<br />
Rainbow Bridge<br />
10 <strong>Gateway</strong> to Canyon Country
www.<strong>Gateway</strong>toCanyonCountry.com 11
During this challenging multi-day hike, backpackers will travel<br />
through some of the most remote, most beautiful country in America.<br />
12 <strong>Gateway</strong> to Canyon Country
Story and photos by Phil Clark<br />
Rainbow Bridge is a huge natural stone ridge in a remote part of<br />
southern Utah and is sacred to Native Americans. There are two<br />
ways to get to Rainbow Bridge: by boat or on foot. I recently went<br />
on foot, with a full pack and with four other new friends.<br />
William Howard Taft established Rainbow Bridge National Monument by<br />
Presidential Proclamation in May 1910. The National Monument preserves<br />
a unique and impressively large natural bridge which has been known to Native<br />
Americans long before the arrival of anglos to the Colorado Plateau. It<br />
arcs across the sky as if a rainbow indeed turned into a reddish brown sandstone<br />
arch streaked with desert varnish. From its base to the top of the arch,<br />
it is 290 feet-nearly the height of the Statue of Liberty-and spans 275 feet<br />
across the arroyo. Navajo stories tell of a male and a female rainbow person<br />
coming together in perfect union, and being frozen in time. This rock rainbow<br />
is particularly special because it looks like a rainbow from both sides,<br />
which is quite rare.<br />
Everyone has a bucket list. Mine is still a work in progress and hiking<br />
to Rainbow Bridge was one of the items on that list. A friend of mine announced<br />
one day on Facebook that he was organizing a backpacking trip to<br />
Rainbow Bridge and to let him know if anyone was interested in going. I<br />
jumped at the chance. To hike to Rainbow Bridge, the party must have a<br />
Navajo Nation hiking permit. The group leader was in charge of that. The<br />
rest of us just had to get our packs ready and show up.<br />
Five of us showed up at the rendezvous address and piled our heavy packs<br />
in the back of a friend's pickup. As I hoisted my pack, an 'old school' Kelty<br />
frame, I was glad it was not as heavy as usual. At 44 pounds with water,<br />
while lighter than usual, it still felt heavy.<br />
We drove some 100 miles to the trailhead on a day when the skies were<br />
clear and hardly a breeze was blowing. The wildflowers were highlighting<br />
the landscape with color as we approached the trailhead. After leaving<br />
the paved road, the roads weren't marked and criss-crossed through the sandy<br />
and rocky landscape. Our leader knew the way. Finally, we got to the<br />
trailhead and the view was already impressive. We had only a hint of what<br />
awaited us. Some in the group had been on the hike. The rest of us hadn't.<br />
The hike is not for the novice backpacker. While the net elevation drop<br />
from trailhead to Lake Powell is around 2200 feet, the hike has plenty of uphills<br />
to climb for a net elevation gain. The two longest steep climbs ended<br />
up easier than they looked from the bottom, even in the 80s heat.<br />
Water is the crucial factor in deciding when to go. A person needs four<br />
liters of water to start the trip, the minimum for one day. Some years, the<br />
www.<strong>Gateway</strong>toCanyonCountry.com 13
streams dry up. This year, with the generous<br />
snows we didn't have to worry about water. The<br />
trails were originally established by the Civilian<br />
Conservation Corps and could use a little tender<br />
loving care. The condition of the trails varied from<br />
just walking across a packed sand path to switchbacks<br />
that were covered with round rocks. Cairns<br />
were frequently well placed to make following the<br />
trail easy. Sometimes it seemed there were too<br />
many cairns. One of the hikers in our group successfully<br />
hiked the entire trail in Chaco flip flops<br />
without injury! I swore that, after seeing her accomplish<br />
this feat, I wouldn't make fun of another<br />
hiker in flip flops! To each their own! I'll just use<br />
boots.<br />
As we hiked up and down the trail, the beauty<br />
around us kept changing. From a distance, Navajo<br />
Mountain, which towers above Rainbow Bridge,<br />
doesn't look all that jagged. The landscape unfolded<br />
with amazing rock formations including fins<br />
and canyons. We didn't have time to explore many<br />
nearby places, and made a mental note to spend a<br />
day longer, next time, to allow exploration. A look<br />
at the topo map shows a general east-west line of<br />
canyons, fins and cracks.<br />
Several hours later, and countless photos taken,<br />
our leader identifies our camp site for the night. It<br />
is on a high, flat area with a splendidly expansive<br />
view to the north. In the distance rose the Henry<br />
Mountains. Between the Henrys and our camp,<br />
thousands of canyons and countless rock formations<br />
lie between. Water was about 1/2 mile away<br />
from camp. While plentiful, it still needed to be<br />
hauled to camp. I pulled out a featherweight cloth<br />
bucket-bag and filled it with about a gallon of water.<br />
One of the other hikers in our group and I<br />
shared the task of hauling this precious resource.<br />
We hung out by the campfire for a while, cooking<br />
steaks and potatoes in the coals, fresh swiss chard<br />
sauteed on a nearby backpacker's stove rounded off<br />
14 <strong>Gateway</strong> to Canyon Country
the evening meal.<br />
The next day was the longest, most challenging<br />
day. As a reward for our efforts, we were greeted<br />
with beauty at almost every turn. The wildflower<br />
blooms kept changing with new colors and shapes<br />
for each mile or two rarely leaving an area flower-less.<br />
The ridges in the distance took shape as<br />
masses of sandstone fins cut by canyons. At seemingly<br />
each turn in the trail, the scenery just got better.<br />
The water kept being plentiful with a couple<br />
chances to top canteens as we hiked. We all had<br />
our water treatment systems and it isn't advisable<br />
ing walls that likely dated back to the CCC days.<br />
Luckily the switchbacks were still there to allow<br />
climbing out of the canyons.<br />
The scenery continued to lay itself out in front<br />
of us. We hiked over dome shaped rock, sandy<br />
washes, through bushes and down a crack wide<br />
enough for a backpack which led to the main canyon,<br />
the canyon we would continue to follow tomorrow.<br />
Tonight, the group stayed where they<br />
had stayed before, in a deep canyon with a flattish<br />
area to set up tents and kitchens.<br />
As we set up the camp, we heard the sound of<br />
to drink untreated water. At lunch we soaked frogs croaking in the canyon. With the many alcoves<br />
our sore feet and basked in the sun. Some wandered<br />
off to a nearby sandstone dome. I focused<br />
on wildflowers and let my eyes take me around the<br />
area.<br />
After lunch we continued to make our way to<br />
carved out by the creek, the amphibians may<br />
have figured out how to amplify their sound by<br />
sitting in the sweet spot of an alcove. They were<br />
loud. I spent a long time listening to the sounds of<br />
nature at camp. The amplified frog sounds were<br />
the ultimate goal of the trip. Rainbow Bridge itself.<br />
It was that afternoon I saw some trail retain- See Rainbow page 22<br />
www.<strong>Gateway</strong>toCanyonCountry.com 15
Cowboy Cookin’ at<br />
Juicy Steaks & more!<br />
Freshly made<br />
Sandwiches!<br />
Authentic<br />
Navajo Tacos!<br />
Great Food &<br />
Great Prices -<br />
come on down<br />
and see for<br />
yourself!<br />
Fresh Salad Bar!<br />
Open 11 am to 2 pm; 5 pm to close<br />
718 Vista Ave., Page, AZ • 928-645-0908<br />
16 <strong>Gateway</strong> to Canyon Country
Wahweap<br />
Bay Warm Creek<br />
Bay<br />
Hole-<br />
In-The-<br />
Rock<br />
Antelope<br />
Point Marina<br />
State Line Launch<br />
Ramp<br />
Dangling<br />
Rope<br />
Marina<br />
Rock<br />
Creek<br />
Escalante<br />
River<br />
San Jaun<br />
River<br />
Halls<br />
Creek Bay<br />
Bullfrog Bay<br />
Bullfrog<br />
Marina<br />
Halls<br />
Crossing<br />
Marina<br />
Colorado<br />
River<br />
Hite Marina<br />
Lake Powell<br />
Lone Rock Beach/<br />
Fee Camping<br />
Last Chance Bay<br />
Padre Bay<br />
Wahweap<br />
Marina & Launch<br />
Ramp<br />
Glen Canyon Dam<br />
West Canyon<br />
Navajo Canyon<br />
Antelope<br />
Point<br />
Marina &<br />
Launch<br />
Ramp<br />
City<br />
of<br />
Page,<br />
AZ<br />
Colorado<br />
River<br />
Rainbow Bridge<br />
National<br />
Monument<br />
Wahweap Marina<br />
www.<strong>Gateway</strong>toCanyonCountry.com 17
18 <strong>Gateway</strong> to Canyon Country
www.<strong>Gateway</strong>toCanyonCountry.com 19
89<br />
Morgan Rd.<br />
Hawk Ct.<br />
Falcon Ct.<br />
Elk Rd.<br />
Cameron St.<br />
Bonita Rd. W<br />
Bonita St. Bonita Rd. W<br />
Piute Piute Ct.<br />
Castle Rock St.<br />
Driftwood<br />
Del Barrco Ave.<br />
1<br />
2<br />
Page Hospital<br />
Urgent Care<br />
Police Station<br />
Fire Station<br />
Park<br />
ATM<br />
KEY<br />
Must See<br />
Visitors’ Centers<br />
Scenic Overlooks<br />
Marinas<br />
Lake Access<br />
Church<br />
School<br />
Golf Course<br />
United States Post Office<br />
A B C D<br />
To Glen Canyon Dam<br />
Wahweap Marina<br />
& Kanab, UT<br />
Glen Canyon<br />
Dam Overlook<br />
89<br />
View Rd.<br />
Scenic<br />
N. Navajo Dr.<br />
89<br />
Lake Powell<br />
National Golf<br />
Blvd.<br />
Powell Lake N<br />
Date St.<br />
Clubhouse Dr.<br />
Dr.<br />
Eagle<br />
Dr.<br />
Navajo N.<br />
St.<br />
Gum<br />
Fir St.<br />
Ave.<br />
Vista<br />
Ave.<br />
4th<br />
19th Ave.<br />
Pueblo Dr.<br />
Dr.<br />
Rim View<br />
N. Navajo Dr.<br />
18th Ave.<br />
Dr.<br />
Rimview<br />
17th Ave.<br />
Ave.<br />
16th<br />
15th Ave.<br />
14th Ave.<br />
6th Ave.<br />
13th Ave.<br />
St.<br />
Bureau<br />
20th Ave.<br />
Ave.<br />
Vista<br />
A<br />
8<br />
Ave.<br />
7th S.<br />
Elm St.<br />
4<br />
Mesa Dr.<br />
B<br />
Ave.<br />
12th<br />
Grandview St.<br />
13th Ct.<br />
Ave.<br />
Knoll<br />
N. 10th Ave.<br />
Hemlock St.<br />
Pine St.<br />
Poplar St.<br />
S. Lake Powell Blvd.<br />
View Dr.<br />
W.<br />
14th Ave.<br />
Ct.<br />
Butte<br />
Ct.<br />
Valley<br />
Padre Escalante Dr.<br />
Ave.<br />
11th<br />
Cathedral Ave.<br />
Coconino St.<br />
Kachina Kachina<br />
20th Ave.<br />
Westview Dr.<br />
10th N. Ave.<br />
Aero Ave.<br />
Plateau Ct.<br />
Ave.<br />
Turquoise<br />
7th Ave.<br />
Grandview St.<br />
Ave.<br />
Mesa Red<br />
8th Ave.<br />
Gunsight St.<br />
S. 9th Ave.<br />
Grandview St.<br />
Glen Canyon Dr.<br />
Gunsight St.<br />
Golliard<br />
Park<br />
Glen Canyon Dr.<br />
Thunderbird Ave.<br />
Gramdview St.<br />
Spruce<br />
Tower Butte Ave.<br />
Page Municipal Airport<br />
Redrock St.<br />
Mirage St.<br />
El<br />
St.<br />
10th<br />
Cll Hermosa<br />
Pondersoa St.<br />
Juniper Ave.<br />
Cypress Ave.<br />
Tamarisk St.<br />
Crestview<br />
2<br />
Colorado St.<br />
Willow St.<br />
Vermilion Ave.<br />
Tower Butte Ave.<br />
Sage Ave.<br />
S. Navajo Dr.<br />
3<br />
S. Navajo Dr.<br />
1st Ave.<br />
Ave.<br />
2nd<br />
Ave.<br />
3rd<br />
Cedar St.<br />
St.<br />
Birch<br />
Aspen St.<br />
Date St.<br />
S. Navajo Dr.<br />
3<br />
5<br />
5th Ave.<br />
John C.<br />
Page Park<br />
9<br />
1*<br />
F<br />
E 6<br />
L<br />
K<br />
S. Lake Powell Blvd.<br />
Aqua Ave.<br />
Ave.<br />
S. 9th<br />
Oak St.<br />
Village Dr.<br />
Veronica Ct.<br />
Antelope Ave.<br />
Cheryl Ave.<br />
Diane Ct.<br />
Sunrise St.<br />
Hopi Ave.<br />
Lakeside Ct.<br />
Sage Ave.<br />
Elm St.<br />
89<br />
Haul Rd.<br />
S. Lake Powell Blvd.<br />
Kaibab Rd.<br />
Haul Rd.<br />
Golden Eagle Ct.<br />
I<br />
Cache Rd.<br />
Bran Rd.<br />
K<br />
S. Lake Powell Blvd.<br />
Cemetery Rd.<br />
San Francisco Rd.<br />
Azure Rd.<br />
C<br />
Cameron St.<br />
7<br />
Page<br />
Public Library<br />
Cascade St.<br />
Manson Rd.<br />
Marble Rd.<br />
Granada<br />
Via Valdez<br />
Jerome St.t<br />
Newburn Rd.<br />
Maverick Loop<br />
Rd.<br />
Newburn<br />
Coppermine Rd.<br />
Coppermine Rd.<br />
Sandpiper Dr.<br />
Osprey Dr.<br />
Buckeye Dr.<br />
4<br />
Appaloosa Rd.<br />
e Powell S. Lake Blvd. Powell Blvd.<br />
Cameron St.<br />
Haul Rd.<br />
Palomino Rd.<br />
Clydesdale Rd.<br />
Cliff Ct.<br />
Manson Rd.<br />
Packer Ct.<br />
Bass Ct.<br />
Rd.<br />
Coppermine<br />
Sunset Rd. W Sunset St.<br />
5<br />
89<br />
To Horseshoe Bend<br />
lake powell<br />
printing<br />
98<br />
Rd.<br />
Pinto<br />
Shetland<br />
Mustang Rd.<br />
San Francisco Rd.<br />
98<br />
Azure Rd.<br />
Loop<br />
O’Neil<br />
C<br />
Sunset St.<br />
Aztec St.<br />
Amand Cir.<br />
Scott’s Lake Powell Printing ©2015 All Rights Reserved<br />
315 S. 12th Street :: Montrose, CO 81401 :: 928-645-3663 :: scottb@scottsprinting.com |Reproduction of the whole or any part of this publication, by any method for any purpose whatever, without written permission from the publisher is strictly prohibited.<br />
Amado Rd. W<br />
Amado St.<br />
Bonita Loop<br />
Cameron St.<br />
To Antelope Point Marina<br />
Navajo Generating Station<br />
& Kayenta, AZ<br />
98<br />
To Flagstaff, AZ<br />
Aero Ave. C, D-2<br />
Amado St. C-4<br />
Amado Rd. W. C-4<br />
Armand Cir. C-4<br />
Antelope Ave. D-3<br />
Appaloosa Rd. B-5<br />
Aqua Ave. D-3<br />
Aspen St. C-3<br />
Aztec St. C-4<br />
Azure Rd. B-4<br />
Bran Rd. B-4<br />
Bass Ct. C-3<br />
Birch St. B,C-3<br />
Bonita Lp. C-4<br />
Bonita Rd. W. C-4<br />
Bonita St. C-4<br />
Buckeye Dr. D-4<br />
Bureau St. C-2<br />
Butte Ct. C-1<br />
Cll. Hermosa D-2<br />
Cache Rd. B-4<br />
Cameron St. B-3, D-3,4<br />
Cascade St. C-4<br />
Castle Rock St. C-2<br />
Cathedral Ave. C-2<br />
Cedar St. B,C-3<br />
Cemetery Rd. B-3,4<br />
Cheryl Ave. D-3<br />
Cliff Ct. B-3<br />
Clubhouse Dr. B-1,2<br />
Clydesale Rd. B-4<br />
Coconino St. C-2<br />
Colorado St. D-2<br />
Coppermine Rd. (89T)<br />
C-3,D-3,4,5<br />
Crestview Ave. D-2<br />
Cypress Ave. D-2<br />
Date St. B-2,3,C-3<br />
Del Barrco Ave. D-2<br />
Diane Ct. D-3<br />
Driftwood Ave. D-2<br />
Eagle Dr. B,C-2<br />
Elk Rd. B-3,4<br />
Elm St. B,C-2<br />
El Mirage St. D-2<br />
Falcon Ct. B-4<br />
Fir St. C-2<br />
Glen Canyon Dr. D-1,2<br />
Granada Rd. C-4<br />
Grandview St. C-1,2<br />
,D-2<br />
Golden Eagle Ct. B-3,4<br />
Gum St. B,C-2<br />
Gunsight St. C-1, D-1,2<br />
Haul Rd. A,B,C,D-4<br />
Hawk Ct. B-4<br />
Hemlock St. C-2<br />
Hopi Ave. D-3<br />
Jerome St. C-4<br />
street index<br />
Juniper Ave. D-2<br />
Kachina St. C-2<br />
Kaibab Rd. B-3,4<br />
Knoll Ave. C-1<br />
Lake Powell Blvd.<br />
A-3,B-1,3,C-1,2,3, D-3<br />
Lakeside Ct. D-3<br />
Manson Rd. B,C-3<br />
Marble Rd. C-3<br />
Maverick Lp. C-4<br />
Mesa Dr. C-1<br />
Morgan Rd. B-4,5<br />
Mustang Rd. B-5<br />
Navajo Dr. B,C-1,2,3,<br />
D-2<br />
Newburn Rd. C-3,4<br />
Oak St. D-3<br />
O’Neil Lp. B-4<br />
Osprey Dr. D-3<br />
Packer Ct. C-3<br />
Padre Escalante Dr.<br />
C-1,2<br />
Palomino Rd. B-4<br />
Pine St. C-2<br />
Pinto Rd. B-5<br />
Piute Ct. C-3<br />
Plateau Ct. C,D-1<br />
Ponderosa St. D-2<br />
Poplar St. C-2<br />
Pueblo Dr. C-1<br />
Red Mesa Ave. C-2<br />
Redrock St. D-2<br />
Rim View Dr. C-1<br />
Rimview Dr. C-2<br />
Sage Ave.<br />
Sandpiper Dr.<br />
D-2,3<br />
D-3,4<br />
San Francisco Rd. B,C-4<br />
Scenic View Rd. B-1,2<br />
Shetland B-5<br />
Spruce D-2<br />
Sunrise St. D-3<br />
Sunset St. B-4<br />
Sunset Rd. W. B-3,4<br />
Tamerisk St. D-2<br />
Thunderbird Ave. C,D-2<br />
Tower Butte Ave. D-2<br />
Turquoise Ave. C-2<br />
Valley Ct. C-1<br />
Vermilion Ave. D-2<br />
Veronica Ct. D-3<br />
Via Valdez C-4<br />
W. View Dr. C-1<br />
Village Dr. D-3<br />
Vista Ave. C-1,2<br />
Westview Dr. C-1<br />
Willow St. D-2<br />
1st Ave. B-2,3<br />
2nd Ave. B-3<br />
3rd Ave. B,C-3<br />
4th Ave. C-2,3<br />
5th Ave. C-2,3<br />
6th Ave. C-2,3<br />
7th Ave. C-2<br />
8th Ave. C,D-2<br />
9th Ave. C,D-2,3<br />
N. 10th Ave. C-1,2<br />
10th St. D-1,2<br />
11th Ave. C,D-1<br />
12th Ave. C-1<br />
13th Ave. C-1<br />
13th Ct. C-1<br />
14th Ave. C-1<br />
15th Ave. C-1<br />
16th Ave. C-1<br />
17th Ave. C-1<br />
18th Ave. C-1<br />
19th Ave. C-1<br />
20th Ave. C,D-1<br />
20 <strong>Gateway</strong> to Canyon Country
The Comfort Inn & Suites®<br />
hotel in Page, Arizona<br />
offers easy access to a variety of<br />
outdoor activities along the Colorado<br />
River, including water skiing, hiking,<br />
biking, fishing, golfing and raft trips.<br />
This Page, AZ hotel is also<br />
convenient to Horseshoe Bend<br />
and Antelope Canyon.<br />
Guests of the Comfort Inn & Suites will appreciate our many amenities including:<br />
• Free wireless high-speed Internet access • Business center<br />
• Heated indoor pool & Jacuzzi! • Complimentary hot breakfast • Fitness Room<br />
928-645-6931<br />
890 Haul Road, Page, AZ<br />
Indoor heated pool & jacuzzi<br />
The Rodeway Inn® is located close<br />
to Powell Museum and Lake Powell<br />
National Golf Course.<br />
Recreational amenities include an<br />
outdoor pool. Those traveling on<br />
business have access to a<br />
business center at this hotel.<br />
Complimentary wireless Internet<br />
access is available in public areas.<br />
Self parking is complimentary.<br />
Additional property amenities include<br />
free WiFi, laundry facilities, and a<br />
picnic area. Some accommodations<br />
have balconies or patios if available.<br />
Free hot breakfast. All rooms with flat<br />
screen TV’s, microwave, refrigerator,<br />
coffee pot and hair dryer.<br />
Great Wall of China Restaurant<br />
inside the Rodeway Inn<br />
Downtown Page, AZ<br />
107 S. Lake Powell Blvd., Page, AZ • 928-645-2406<br />
www.<strong>Gateway</strong>toCanyonCountry.com 21
Rainbow from page 15<br />
just one of the 'instruments' that were playing. Crickets<br />
were punctuating the sound with their contribution.<br />
The sound of the creek was the percussion section in<br />
the sound of water gently flowing over rocks serving as<br />
background 'beat'. The 'orchestra' was mesmerizing. At<br />
first my fellow campers offered their own track with their<br />
camp stories. I found that by moving around along the<br />
creek, the various 'tracks' of sound changed with the frog<br />
sounds becoming louder, the further away from human<br />
voices I went.<br />
It bad been a long, strenuous day and as I listened to<br />
the frogs, I was grateful<br />
for the opportunity to<br />
have gone on this hike.<br />
Grateful to have seen<br />
such incredible scenery.<br />
Grateful that nothing<br />
bad happened. Grateful<br />
for my new friends.<br />
The camp felt a lot like<br />
a river camp that one<br />
might find along the<br />
Colorado River or any<br />
of the other wet canyons<br />
of the Colorado<br />
Plateau. We hung out<br />
and talked for a while<br />
before fatigue took over<br />
and it was time to fall<br />
asleep, looking at the<br />
star-filled sky.<br />
The last day proved<br />
to be the most windy.<br />
We packed up camp<br />
quickly and finished<br />
breakfast. We all knew<br />
that today would be the<br />
easiest backpacking day and the day we would see Rainbow<br />
Bridge. We only had three miles to cover and several<br />
hours til our rendezvous with another friend with a<br />
boat to take us back to Antelope Point Marina.<br />
We hiked down the canyon. Not too far, one in our<br />
group noticed a small 'tub' of water in the creek. Even<br />
though we hadn't gone long, the idea of getting wet was<br />
enticing. Hesitating for a while, we finally decided to<br />
cool off. Good choice, I thought, as we carefully let ourselves<br />
into the water. The water was perfect. A little<br />
cold, to preclude sudden immersion, and didn't take long<br />
to get used to. Wish we had known about it yesterday!<br />
We continued following the trail and the canyon, stopping<br />
at the site of an old cowboy camp. Above the camp<br />
was a tall and deep alcove. Some in the group scrambled<br />
inside the alcove. Others just relaxed and enjoyed the<br />
scene. Throughout the hike, we saw various man-made<br />
structures. Some appeared to be native sheep camps.<br />
At last, the edge of the stone rainbow came into view.<br />
Just a portion of it but it was unmistakable. Before long,<br />
we crossed the fence with the National Park Service sign<br />
marking the official Monument boundary. It had been<br />
a long time since I had seen Rainbow Bridge and never<br />
got to see it appear from the upstream, sunnier side.<br />
When so near, it doesn't seem like the US Capitol or even<br />
most of the Statue of<br />
Liberty could fit underneath,<br />
but I don't<br />
doubt it. I remember<br />
the day when it wasn't<br />
a long walk from the<br />
boat dock to be able<br />
to get a view of the<br />
bridge. The waters of<br />
Lake Powell used to be<br />
under the bridge. Today,<br />
some thirty years<br />
later, the trail from the<br />
bridge is over a mile<br />
long and it seemed to<br />
be the longest of the<br />
entire trip.<br />
We enjoyed the moment<br />
of being at Rainbow<br />
Bridge. The ravens<br />
were sailing<br />
through the canyon.<br />
The canyon flowed water<br />
and formed a variety<br />
of pools. The<br />
winds had died down. There were very few others. It<br />
was peaceful. As if blessed, we had beauty all around<br />
us for our entire trip. The Bridge still is as impressive as<br />
ever. A near-perfect half circle, connected on one side to<br />
a cliff.<br />
Once on the boat, refreshments in hand, the ride was<br />
a bit bumpy with a lot of white caps on the water. Our<br />
friend's boat cut through the water like a knife. The<br />
wind that woke us up this morning had just increased,<br />
foretelling a storm passing through. Luckily we had<br />
excellent weather for the three days. The next day, it<br />
rained.<br />
22 <strong>Gateway</strong> to Canyon Country
Great Store - Great Service<br />
• Hardware • Plumbing • Electric • Tools<br />
• Housewares • Pet Supplies • Feed & Grain • Lawn & Garden<br />
For future adventure ideas in the<br />
Grand Circle follow us on<br />
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R.V. Parts & Marine Acc. • Rental Equipment<br />
BOSTON’S<br />
Your<br />
hometown<br />
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Store for over<br />
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www.bostonstruevalue.com<br />
Join us for excellent food and service.<br />
Visit our website<br />
www.eltapatio-restaurants.com<br />
25 Lake Powell Blvd., Page, AZ<br />
928.645.4055<br />
Open 7 days a week 11 am - 11 pm<br />
WATERHOLE<br />
CANYON<br />
928-660-2031<br />
Hwy. 89 • Milepost 542<br />
5 Miles South of Page AZ<br />
Experience<br />
Navajo Family Owned<br />
and Operated<br />
We Book Tours for Most Local Companies<br />
See Page & Lake Powell Today!<br />
• Individual/Families/Tour Groups<br />
• Same Rates as Local Guides<br />
• Tips & Ideas to Tour Area<br />
• Hike/Boat/Kayak/Whitewater Rafting<br />
Helicopter Rides/Swim/Fishing/Dining/Hotels<br />
LIQUOR STORE<br />
Fine Wines and Champagnes<br />
Domestic, Imported and Microbrew<br />
Fresh Draft Beer To-Go from the GROWLER STATION<br />
www.fredsliquorstore.com • 928-645-3575<br />
902 North Navajo Dr., Page, AZ 86040<br />
Need ice? Get it straight from the source, Reddy Ice!<br />
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928.645.2741<br />
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www.ReddyIce.com 928.645.8886 ext. 35480<br />
2018 E. Frontage Rd., Page, AZ 86040<br />
www.<strong>Gateway</strong>toCanyonCountry.com 23
A slice of cake<br />
on a slice of beach<br />
In a slice of Paradise<br />
Smoothwater kayaking on the Colorado River between<br />
the Glen Canyon Dam and Lee’s Ferry<br />
24 <strong>Gateway</strong> to Canyon Country
Story and photos by Steven Law<br />
The river is coke bottle green. The mid-morning<br />
sunlight falls gently on whiskey-colored<br />
cliff walls. The Cicadas are making their rasping<br />
noises from the tamarisk trees which line<br />
shores, a sound like a card dealer repeatedly fanning his<br />
thumb over the edges of a deck of cards.<br />
Up on the rim the temperature on this August morning<br />
is already in the mid-90s, but down in the bottom of<br />
Glen Canyon, which only recently emerged from the canyon’s<br />
wall shadow, the temperature is ten degrees cooler.<br />
We arrange our small amounts of gear in our kayaks<br />
– water bottles, lunches, and cameras in drybags – then<br />
push off the bank and into the current. The river below<br />
the Glen Canyon dam is exceptionally clear and healthy.<br />
Looking over the side of our kayaks into the water we<br />
see trout swimming beneath us and a healthy ecosystem<br />
of river weeds and other aquatic plants waving in the water.<br />
To get to this spot on the river we hired a company<br />
called Kayak the Colorado to haul our kayaks, gear and<br />
ourselves from Lee’s Ferry up the river. We choose to<br />
disembark about 10 miles upriver at a beach and campsite<br />
called Ferry Swale. There are seven of us, a group<br />
of friends from Page, Arizona. We’re also joined by an<br />
old friend of mine, and his mom, from Oakland, California.<br />
www.<strong>Gateway</strong>toCanyonCountry.com 25
The Colorado River has some amazing, world-class<br />
whitewater, but there is no whitewater along the stretch<br />
between the Glen Canyon Dam and Lee’s Ferry. We are<br />
not in whitewater, fast-action, highly-maneuverable kayaks,<br />
but long, roomy sea kayaks.<br />
This stretch of the river flows at four miles per hour.<br />
Most of the paddling we do is to stay out of the eddies,<br />
or to move closer to get a better look at some ducks, or<br />
some wild horses grazing on the river bank.<br />
It’s August 4, <strong>2019</strong>. We chose to float this section of<br />
the Colorado River because it is an auspicious day. Exactly<br />
150 years earlier, on Aug. 4, 1869, John Wesley<br />
Powell and his crew floated through this section of Glen<br />
Canyon. They camped the night of Aug. 3 just above the<br />
Crossing of the Father’s and camped the night of Aug. 4<br />
at what is now Lee’s Ferry.<br />
On the night Powell and his men camped at the spot in<br />
1869 it was just another empty spot inside a massive empty<br />
spot.<br />
After paddling/floating for about 45 minutes we pull our<br />
kayaks onto a beach<br />
where we disembark<br />
from our lovely<br />
fleet. Because it is<br />
an auspicious date,<br />
we run into several<br />
more friends of<br />
ours from Page who<br />
are also on the river<br />
commemorating<br />
the day. Some<br />
are on kayaks, some<br />
on a drift boat. Two<br />
of them, Mick and<br />
Gina Swapp, are on<br />
a pimped-out pontoon<br />
boat, named<br />
River Time.<br />
Mick and Gina are celebrating another big occasion:<br />
Mick’s 63rd birthday. A man in our group, George Hardeen,<br />
works with Mick and knew that it was his birthday,<br />
and so he brought with him a birthday cake, which he presented<br />
to Mick. For years Mick worked weekends as a<br />
river guide on this stretch of river, something his friend<br />
George does currently.<br />
These four different groups of friends, even though we<br />
came separately and launched at different times, just happened<br />
to converge at Petros Beach at the same times and<br />
we spend 30 minutes saying hello to each other. Shannon<br />
offers me a beer. Mick offers to let me use his blower to<br />
air up my inflatable kayak, which I had failed to pump as<br />
tight as it should have been. We then leave the river and<br />
walk up a sand trail to see the famous “Descending Antelope”<br />
petroglyph panel, which depicts antelope, humans,<br />
bighorn sheep and abstract etchings which are harder to<br />
interpret their meaning.<br />
After viewing the petroglyph panel we return to our kayaks<br />
and push out onto the river again and here we enter the<br />
Horseshoe Bend section of the river.<br />
We float. We paddle. We drift. We trail our hands in the<br />
cold water. We take out cameras and phones and take photos<br />
of the beautiful day. I lay my paddle across my kayak<br />
and let the lazy river take it. The nose catches a slight<br />
eddy, which slowly spins my kayak around like a compass<br />
needle lazily searching for north. I lie back and let the river<br />
carry me downriver, while I gently spin about and gaze<br />
at the sky and watch the light change on the cliff walls like<br />
chameleon skin.<br />
In this manner I,<br />
and the members<br />
of my group, pass<br />
through Horseshoe<br />
Bend and a short<br />
distance below that<br />
we pull over to another<br />
beach – a place<br />
called Lunch Beach<br />
– to stretch our legs<br />
and slow down the<br />
trip. With the river<br />
flowing at four miles<br />
an hour, our wonderful<br />
day on the river<br />
will be over too soon<br />
if we don’t make a<br />
few stops along the<br />
way.<br />
The other group of kayakers, and the Swapps pull over<br />
too. Here Mick gets out the birthday cake George had<br />
presented him earlier in the day. In true boatman style, he<br />
slices it with his fish knife, then gives everyone a slice.<br />
We sing him Happy Birthday. And there we each eat a<br />
slice of cake on a slice of beach inside a slice of paradise.<br />
Not bad, not bad.<br />
After half an hour on the beach we get back on our<br />
kayaks and go a short distance downriver. Here Mick and<br />
26 <strong>Gateway</strong> to Canyon Country
Gina pull River Time into the shade against the left<br />
cliff wall and tie off to a piton anchored into the wall.<br />
There Mick gets out his guitar and the kayakers, still<br />
in their kayaks, pull in close and listen to Mick play<br />
his guitar and sing some of his original river songs,<br />
which were inspired by this very stretch of river.<br />
After listening to Mick, we thank him for sharing<br />
his wonderful music with us, and then push out into<br />
the current again into the canyon’s beautiful afternoon<br />
light. Early morning and late afternoon are my favorite<br />
times to be on the river. A summer morning on the<br />
river is one of life’s great delights. The air is cool.<br />
The light is soft. Swallows, sometimes by the thousands,<br />
skim over the surface of the water catching insects.<br />
On mornings following a nighttime rainstorm,<br />
mist and fog lift off the river which gives the canyon<br />
a just-created quality.<br />
Smell the river. Smell the willows. Smell the grass.<br />
Late afternoon on the river is also amazing.<br />
John D. Lee, for whom<br />
Lee’s Ferry is named, moved<br />
to the area in 1870 with the<br />
goal of establishing a Ferry<br />
Crossing. The ferry, which<br />
was a wooden barge pulled<br />
back and forth across the river<br />
by a cable, was finally established<br />
in 1873.<br />
www.<strong>Gateway</strong>toCanyonCountry.com 27
There’s a time of day when the sun has descended low<br />
enough that the cliff walls cast their shadows on the water.<br />
The shadow on the river essentially turns it into long,<br />
linear mirror. The cliff walls and the trees on the shore<br />
are mirrored on the river, which turns the canyon into a<br />
funhouse work of art. After the river serenade, we spend<br />
another 90 minutes paddling to Lee’s Ferry, and the end<br />
of our day’s kayaking adventure. Along the way we<br />
passed a group of wild horses grazing on the bank at the<br />
river’s edge.<br />
Though a float trip through this stretch of the Colorado<br />
River starts a short distance below the Glen Canyon<br />
Dam, access to the river can only be obtained from Lee’s<br />
Ferry. From there, private boats are allowed to launch<br />
and motor upriver where they can drop off their friends<br />
with kayaks.<br />
You’ll be sharing the river with rafts from Wilderness<br />
28 <strong>Gateway</strong> to Canyon Country<br />
River Adventures, who transport sightseers from the Dam<br />
to Lee’s Ferry, as well as fly fishermen with Lee’s Ferry<br />
Anglers, who park their jetboats on the bank, or on gravel<br />
bars and flycast for trout.<br />
Two companies offer backhaul services from Lee’s Ferry<br />
upriver. They will transport you, your friends, your<br />
dogs, your kayaks and whatever gear you want to bring<br />
with you upriver and drop you off at whatever point you<br />
wish to begin your float trip.<br />
Camping along the river is also allowed, but you must<br />
camp in a designated campsite. There are nine of them<br />
along the river. Camping at them is free, but they cannot<br />
be reserved in advance. They operate on a first come,<br />
first served basis. If you plan to camp, the companies<br />
that provide the backhaul can drop your camp gear off<br />
at your desired beach, then transport you and your kayaks<br />
up river, and from there you can paddle back to your<br />
campsite.
Kayak the Colorado<br />
Kayak the Colorado rents kayaks, canoes, and stand-up paddleboards. They charge $75 per person for the<br />
backhaul. Kayaks and canoes rent for about $45. They will meet you at Lee’s Ferry any time that works best<br />
for your group.<br />
(928)-856-0012, kayakthecolorado.com<br />
Wilderness River Adventures<br />
Wilderness River Adventures charges $65 per person for their backhaul services. You must meet them at<br />
Lee’s Ferry at times specified by them. They do not rent kayak, canoe or SUP rentals.<br />
800-992-8022, www.riveradventures.com<br />
www.<strong>Gateway</strong>toCanyonCountry.com 29
Musings from the<br />
Grand Canyon<br />
“There is something ominous about a swift river, and something thrilling about a river of<br />
out of mystery, the nearest downstream bend a door to further mystery.”<br />
30 <strong>Gateway</strong> to Canyon Country
By Nicole Anderson<br />
The muddy water rushed through the heart of the canyon<br />
creating waves sometimes four, five feet deep.<br />
The walls, cut deep from eons of wind and rain created<br />
a canyon so deep and desolate that few will experience<br />
it from its heart.<br />
I stood on the plateau, my family's luggage draped in<br />
black garbage bags in hopes of keeping it dry as I watched<br />
a black storm cloud bubble up in the distance against the<br />
azure blue sky. The golden hues of the canyon seemed to<br />
soften as the storm rolled in and the heat of the arid desert<br />
seemed to cool, if only for a moment. A chill rushed<br />
through my body as I reached for my tattered and wellloved<br />
flannel shirt for warmth.<br />
We had walked several miles down into the depths of<br />
the canyon. The trail was wide with the occasional sagebrush<br />
or boulder holding its place boldly in the midst of<br />
the stark canyon. We sang songs and chased lizards, always<br />
making sure to stay hydrated, and when we heard the<br />
rumbling of the mule train in the distance we quickly scurried<br />
to the wall as if to bolt ourselves to it for our protection.<br />
The mules – at least ten per train – strode past us at a<br />
very quick speed, the dirt swirled in the air left us covered<br />
in dusty powder, as if we were celebrating the Holi Festival,<br />
signifying the arrival of something new.<br />
My children were 13, 10, and 8 years young at the time<br />
and were excited to be on such a grand adventure that had<br />
been months in the making. Strangers and friends alike repeatedly<br />
asked me, “What kind of mother takes her children<br />
to the bottom of the Grand Canyon?”<br />
Was it so much of an oddity that I wanted my children to<br />
experience an untouched world? A place where few people<br />
travel? A place where nature and wild still collide and yet<br />
find peace with one another? I didn’t think so, but the unsolicited<br />
comments kept rolling in, much like a rock careening<br />
down the canyon. My favorite comment perhaps<br />
any kind. The nearest upstream bend is a gate<br />
~ Edward Abbey<br />
Beyond the Hundredth Meridian<br />
www.<strong>Gateway</strong>toCanyonCountry.com 31
came from a Scoutmaster who told me, “I don’t even take<br />
boys on hikes that long until they were well into their teens.<br />
What are you thinking taking two girls?”<br />
He was sure my son would be fine, but my girls?<br />
In true Edward Abbey fashion, all I could think was that he<br />
wished for our trails to be “crooked, winding, lonesome, dangerous<br />
leading [us] to the most amazing view[s].”<br />
And so, we went despite my uneasiness.<br />
Truth be told, those naysayers had weaseled their way into<br />
my head. Sure, I had purchased the best hiking boots and gear<br />
money could buy and we carried more water than we could<br />
drink on that journey, but it was hot, dry, and I was way out<br />
of my comfort zone. The rest of my family - my cousins and<br />
aunts - had walked ahead of us and now, as dusk slowly made<br />
her way into the canyon, shadows from the smallest pebble or<br />
bush appeared high up on the canyon walls -walls taller than<br />
the Empire State Building- a realization that it was just me,<br />
my three children, and the canyon. The Grand Canyon.<br />
Now, decades later, I find myself on a bench just outside<br />
the back doors of the Visitors Center at the<br />
North Rim. The blistering sun feels hot on my skin<br />
and beads of sweat trickle down my spine. Leaning back in<br />
my chair I rest my feet on the stone wall built by members of<br />
the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) in 1933, a huge undertaking.<br />
On the South Rim, if you look closely at the wall<br />
you will find a stone, shaped like a heart, installed by a CCC<br />
worker in 1935 for his Harvey Girl Sweetheart (a hotel waitress).<br />
Legend says they were married in that very spot a few<br />
years later. Pondering this love story, I took a drink from<br />
my water bottle and then raised the bottle over my head and<br />
poured it down my back, sending chills down my spine leaving<br />
me refreshed from my day hike along the edge of the canyon<br />
rim.<br />
As I sat there staring into the abyss of the grandest canyon<br />
in the world the air seemed to once again soften with clouds<br />
tumbling in from the distance and in this rare weather phenomena,<br />
fog began to fill the canyon stopping just shy of the<br />
rim’s edge. The clouds, fluffy and frothy in appearance gave<br />
us the illusion that we could simply walk across them to the<br />
other side of the canyon.<br />
Air temperatures typically cool as it moves higher into the<br />
Earth's atmosphere, yet during one of these rare inversion<br />
events, “a layer of warm air traps cool air and moisture closer<br />
to the ground, preventing it from dissipating as it normally<br />
would, resulting in a total cloud inversion. It is said to be such<br />
a rarity that most people don’t ever see it in their lifetime. I<br />
walked back inside the visitor’s center past the bronze statue<br />
of Brighty - a most legendary burro - stroking his nose for<br />
luck and turned the corner into the restaurant where I stopped<br />
in my tracks.<br />
That moment hung in the air much like the fog in the canyon and<br />
I recalled my first trip to the Grand Canyon where I sat in the chair<br />
at the corner table by the window as a child, staring into the canyon<br />
when suddenly, or perhaps not so suddenly, the clouds rolled and<br />
tumbled into the canyon filling it with marshmallow clouds.<br />
My mother seemed giddy at the moment, my dad took photos,<br />
and then we just sat together staring out the window, sipping our hot<br />
chocolate. I didn’t realize it at the time what a rare event I was privy<br />
to see; neither did my parents but it was one of those moments where<br />
the canyon etched itself into your memory, never to be forgotten.<br />
John Wesley Powell said, “You cannot see the Grand Canyon in<br />
one view, as if it were a changeless spectacle from which a curtain<br />
might be lifted, but to see it you have to toil from month to month<br />
through its labyrinths.”<br />
Even then you may not fully see it at all. For it is rare, wild, and<br />
much of it untouched. Unexplored even. For it is the Grand Canyon.<br />
Fully wild and in the words of Wallace Stegner, “We simply<br />
need that wild country available to us, even if we never do more than<br />
drive to its edge and look in.”<br />
32 <strong>Gateway</strong> to Canyon Country
At the End of Your Day...<br />
• Deluxe guest rooms with fridges, microwaves,<br />
Coffee pots, irons & ironing boards<br />
• Boat parking/AC power • Convenient location<br />
• Free wireless Internet • Breakfast<br />
• Guest laundry<br />
LAKE POWELL<br />
Lake Powell Days Inn & Suites<br />
961 Hwy 89, Box 3910,<br />
Page, AZ 86040<br />
(928) 645-2800<br />
www.daysinn.net<br />
Nationwide Reservations<br />
1 (800) DAYSINN<br />
www.<strong>Gateway</strong>toCanyonCountry.com 33
Thunderbird Resort<br />
at East Zion<br />
Restaurant (435) 648-2262<br />
Golf Course (435) 648-2188<br />
Gift Shop (435) 648-2203 ext 5<br />
www.ZionNational-Park.com<br />
Zion National Park - 12 miles<br />
Bryce Canyon - 60 miles<br />
Grand Canyon - 85 miles<br />
Mt. Carmel<br />
Junction, Utah<br />
Junction of<br />
Scenic Byways<br />
US 89 & SR 9<br />
Hours:<br />
7 am - 11 pm<br />
34 <strong>Gateway</strong> to Canyon Country
www.<strong>Gateway</strong>toCanyonCountry.com 35
928-645-4082<br />
Experience the authentic atmosphere<br />
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36 <strong>Gateway</strong> to Canyon Country