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Edible San Diego Special Edition: Feasts from the East Issue #56

The Issue 56 Winter 2019 edition of Edible San Diego is a special tribute to the diverse East Asian communities that call the county home.

The Issue 56 Winter 2019 edition of Edible San Diego is a special tribute to the diverse East Asian communities that call the county home.

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Explore <strong>the</strong> flavors of <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> County<br />

NO. 56 • SPECIAL ISSUE • NOVEMBER 2019<br />

EDIBLESANDIEGO.COM<br />

MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES<br />

<strong>Feasts</strong><br />

From<br />

<strong>the</strong> east


<strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong><br />

eat<br />

drink<br />

shop<br />

play<br />

CALIFORNIA CUISINE<br />

HAS NEVER LOOKED BETTER<br />

DAILY BREAKFAST, LUNCH AND DINNER<br />

SUNDAY CHAMPAGNE BRUNCH<br />

Advertise with <strong>Edible</strong> <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong><br />

Al Fresco Dining | Sushi & Seafood Options | Complimentary Parking<br />

Located at <strong>the</strong> Catamaran Resort Hotel and Spa | (858) 539-8635 | OceanaCoastalKitchen.com


<strong>Feasts</strong> From <strong>the</strong> <strong>East</strong> • <strong>Special</strong> <strong>Issue</strong><br />

CONTENTS<br />

<strong>Issue</strong> 56<br />

IN THIS ISSUE<br />

DEPARTMENTS<br />

4 Publisher’s Note<br />

LIVING LOCAL<br />

6 Hot Dish, Liquid Assets,<br />

Bookshelf, Market Finds,<br />

Let’s Grow<br />

FEATURES<br />

Tasting Notes<br />

PAGE 19<br />

Asian-ish<br />

PAGE 20<br />

EATING WELL<br />

10 Skip <strong>the</strong> Takeout<br />

GROWING GOOD<br />

16 True Heirlooms<br />

FRIENDS WITH BENEFITS<br />

23 An Officer and a Director<br />

STAYCATION<br />

26 Island Escape<br />

LOCAL ATTRACTIONS<br />

30 Farmers’ Markets<br />

31 Check This Out, In Season,<br />

Events<br />

PREP<br />

32 Bibingka Ube<br />

WHAT TO LOOK FOR ON<br />

EDIBLESANDIEGO.COM<br />

More seasonal reading, recipes,<br />

and places to eat this November<br />

and December only on our<br />

website.<br />

READ<br />

Locals Only Guide • Turmeric<br />

Recipes • Pumpkin Everything<br />

• Working on Wellness • Grown<br />

in <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>: A Farmer’s Story<br />

LISTEN<br />

NEW Living Local Podcast<br />

WATCH<br />

Kamayan Feast<br />

Easy Thai Rice Noodle Recipes<br />

+ New recipe videos every<br />

week<br />

Make <strong>the</strong> Season Bright!<br />

ORGANIC PRODUCE & ARTISAN GROCERIES<br />

Delivered to Your Door!<br />

$<br />

15 OFF!<br />

YOUR FIRST DELIVERY<br />

Use Promo Code<br />

EDIBLESD2019<br />

WWW.FARMFRESHTOYOU.COM<br />

ON THE COVER: Chef Fern Tran<br />

shows us how to make a Thai feast<br />

fit for any special occasion or casual<br />

weeknight dinner.<br />

Recipes start on page 13.<br />

OLIVIA HAYO<br />

2 ediblesandiego.com<br />

SPECIAL ISSUE • NOVEMBER 2019 | edible SAN DIEGO 3


PUBLISHER’S NOTE |<br />

Perched<br />

on <strong>the</strong><br />

Pacific Rim<br />

S<br />

urrounded by <strong>the</strong> Rim of Fire, a ring of colliding<br />

tectonic plates, <strong>the</strong> world’s largest ocean connects <strong>San</strong><br />

<strong>Diego</strong> County to people and nature in ways that make our<br />

region unique in <strong>the</strong> world.<br />

Welcome to this special edition (second this year after our<br />

May issue celebrating Cali-Baja cuisine), which delves into<br />

our culinary neighborhood through <strong>the</strong> lens and taste buds<br />

of our multifaceted <strong>East</strong> Asian-American community. <strong>Edible</strong><br />

<strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>’s mission goes beyond exploring Asian food. We<br />

invited Nino Camilo, creator of <strong>the</strong> famed OnoYum Poke<br />

Festival, to guest-edit this issue in an effort to go deep. How<br />

we define ourselves as Americans is a big topic today, and<br />

in <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> County, 17% of <strong>the</strong> population claims Asian<br />

descent.<br />

In this issue, our main feature highlights first- and<br />

second-generation Americans, including local chefs and<br />

restaurateurs, in an engaging roundtable conversation about<br />

<strong>the</strong> influence of <strong>East</strong> Asian cuisine in <strong>the</strong> region. We were<br />

captivated by one idea that emerged: a desire to preserve<br />

au<strong>the</strong>nticity and tradition. We also present three familystyle<br />

Thai noodle recipes, a feature on Chino Family Farm,<br />

and a violist <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> Symphony pairing musical<br />

experiences with <strong>the</strong> culinary arts.<br />

This November and December, <strong>Edible</strong> <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> invites<br />

you into a conversation about living local that sets aside<br />

<strong>the</strong> usual flurry of holiday messages. This year we have<br />

continued to refine our editorial coverage to look more<br />

squarely at our food system, <strong>the</strong> very diverse people and <strong>the</strong><br />

geography of this place, <strong>the</strong> many facets of health, and <strong>the</strong><br />

interconnectedness of <strong>the</strong> natural systems we are part of.<br />

Next year you can expect a new focus on seasonality, with<br />

four <strong>the</strong>matic issues of <strong>the</strong> magazine and related events.<br />

What will remain constant is <strong>the</strong> brisk pace of original,<br />

quality stories online, our enticing social media platforms,<br />

recipe videos, and my Living Local podcast on <strong>the</strong> <strong>Special</strong>ty<br />

Produce Network, all of which are designed to enrich this<br />

discussion.<br />

During <strong>the</strong> hectic holiday season and every day<br />

throughout <strong>the</strong> year, <strong>Edible</strong> <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> is here to be your<br />

go-to guide for living local. It is our business as a media and<br />

events company to bring people toge<strong>the</strong>r through locally<br />

produced food.<br />

Toge<strong>the</strong>r we can celebrate our progress and recommit to<br />

<strong>the</strong> good work that remains.<br />

EDITORIAL<br />

Katie Stokes<br />

Editor in Chief<br />

Maria Hesse<br />

Managing Editor<br />

Felicia Campbell<br />

Executive Digital Editor<br />

Olivia Hayo<br />

Associate Editor<br />

Dawn Mobley<br />

Copy Editor<br />

edible Communities<br />

2011 James Beard Foundation<br />

Publication of <strong>the</strong> Year<br />

MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES<br />

Annika Constantino<br />

Assistant Social Media Editor<br />

Nino Camilo<br />

Editor at Large<br />

@ediblesd<br />

@ediblesandiego<br />

@ediblesandiego<br />

ADVERTISING<br />

For more information about rates and deadlines, contact<br />

info@ediblesandiego.com 619-756-7292<br />

No part of this publication may be used without written permission <strong>from</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> publisher. © 2019 All rights reserved.<br />

Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings, and omissions. If an<br />

error comes to your attention, please let us know and accept our sincere<br />

apologies. Thank you.<br />

COVER PHOTO BY OLIVIA HAYO<br />

DESIGN TEAM<br />

Maria Hesse<br />

Designer<br />

Olivia Hayo<br />

Visuals Editor<br />

Jamie Runnells<br />

Illustrator<br />

Prissana Tran<br />

James Tran<br />

Contributing Stylists<br />

PUBLISHER<br />

Katie Stokes<br />

SALES<br />

John Vawter<br />

Trisha Weinberg<br />

Scott White<br />

CONTACT<br />

<strong>Edible</strong> <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong><br />

P.O. Box 83549 • <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>, CA 92138<br />

619-756-7292 • info@ediblesandiego.com • ediblesandiego.com<br />

Katie Stokes<br />

Publisher, <strong>Edible</strong> <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong><br />

4 ediblesandiego.com<br />

SPECIAL ISSUE • NOVEMBER 2019 | edible SAN DIEGO 5


LIVING LOCAL |<br />

| LIVING LOCAL<br />

Hot Dish<br />

Homestyle Filipino Essentials<br />

BY ANNIKA CONSTANTINO<br />

The Filipino food scene in <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> is arguably <strong>the</strong> best in Sou<strong>the</strong>rn<br />

California, so head to National City to find <strong>the</strong>se classic dishes.<br />

Lumpia<br />

A favorite <strong>from</strong> Tita’s Kitchenette is<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir lumpia: deep-fried spring rolls<br />

filled with mixed vegetables and<br />

minced meat. Enjoy <strong>the</strong>m as a snack<br />

to share with friends or simply pair<br />

with white rice for a meal. Ei<strong>the</strong>r way,<br />

hot and crunchy lumpia is best when<br />

dipped in its accompanying signature<br />

condiment—a sweet-and-sour red<br />

sauce that balances <strong>the</strong> lumpia’s savory<br />

filling.<br />

» facebook.com/pages/Titas-<br />

Kitchenette/118178764860248<br />

Pancit Malabon<br />

One of <strong>the</strong> best sellers at Manila<br />

Sunset is <strong>the</strong>ir pancit Malabon, a<br />

stir-fried, yellow-orange rice noodle<br />

dish topped with shrimp, vegetables,<br />

chicharron, and slices of boiled eggs.<br />

Left: The lumpia at Tita’s Kitchenette is as<br />

addictive as it is crispy. Above: A satisfying<br />

matcha green Thai tea at VaniTea Café.<br />

Everything is coated in patis (fish sauce),<br />

and a generous squeeze of lemon over <strong>the</strong><br />

top goes a long way. It’s quite difficult to<br />

find pancit Malabon—especially one that’s<br />

just as good as Manila Sunset’s—at o<strong>the</strong>r<br />

restaurants in <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>.<br />

» manilasunset.com<br />

Chicken Adobo<br />

Chicken adobo is a popular dish inside<br />

and outside of <strong>the</strong> Filipino community,<br />

and one of <strong>the</strong> restaurants that does this<br />

dish justice is Villa Manila. The chicken<br />

is moist and tender, and <strong>the</strong> adobo sauce<br />

is packed with flavor <strong>from</strong> vinegar, soy,<br />

garlic, black pepper, and bay leaves. Its<br />

tangy and slightly sour taste pairs well<br />

with white rice—or kick it up a notch and<br />

order it with garlic rice.<br />

» villamanila.com<br />

Liquid Assets<br />

The Best Teas<br />

BY BROOK LARIOS<br />

T<br />

he<br />

fun is in <strong>the</strong> sipping of <strong>the</strong>se local<br />

Taiwanese teas.<br />

CHAKAA<br />

Don’t just say cheese, drink it at CHAKAA. Each cup of<br />

tea is hand-brewed in what founder and CEO Marvin<br />

C. Wang calls a “teaspresso,” an appliance akin to an<br />

espresso machine for tea. For <strong>the</strong> cheese tea newbie, try<br />

<strong>the</strong> white peach or cold-brewed jasmine tea with cheezo,<br />

a luscious and creamy cheese foam topping.<br />

» instagram.com/chakaausa<br />

VaniTea Café<br />

When it comes to wild drinks, guests flock to one of<br />

VaniTea Café’s three locations for an expansive menu<br />

of drinkable concoctions. But what really attracts <strong>the</strong><br />

masses is <strong>the</strong> one-of-a-kind matcha green Thai tea, which<br />

doses devotees—many of <strong>the</strong>m students <strong>from</strong> UCSD—<br />

with enough legal stimulant to get through <strong>the</strong> next<br />

three years of finals.<br />

» vaniteacafe.com<br />

Tea Station<br />

Those seeking <strong>the</strong> tried-and-true opt for a simple boba<br />

beverage <strong>from</strong> Tea Station. Team members boil fresh<br />

boba daily, adding in honey to prevent <strong>the</strong> beads <strong>from</strong><br />

sticking toge<strong>the</strong>r. Where many of <strong>the</strong> newer shops carry<br />

popping boba, Tea Station specializes in <strong>the</strong> basics:<br />

regular and mini boba in only <strong>the</strong> chewy variety. The<br />

customer favorite is <strong>the</strong> boba mint tea.<br />

» teastationusa.com<br />

Bookshelf<br />

BY MARIA HESSE<br />

Rancho Bernardo native<br />

Nicole Ponseca and chef<br />

Miguel Trinidad are largely<br />

credited with elevating<br />

Filipino cuisine in <strong>the</strong> New<br />

York dining scene through <strong>the</strong>ir concepts Maharlika<br />

and Jeepney. Their award-winning cookbook, I Am<br />

a Filipino: And This Is How We Cook (Artisan, 2018),<br />

showcases Kamayan cuisine and traditional dishes.<br />

Ponseca says we should make sure to try <strong>the</strong> arroz caldo,<br />

kare kare, classic adobo, and pansit pusit.<br />

BHADRI KUBENDRAN<br />

Market<br />

Finds<br />

Gift-Giving<br />

is Easier in<br />

Kearny Mesa<br />

BY FELICIA CAMPBELL<br />

Kearny Mesa has become<br />

my go-to destination for<br />

gift shopping. Daiso on<br />

Clairemont Mesa Boulevard<br />

is a great place to find<br />

whimsical stocking stuffers<br />

and affordable gift wrap, and<br />

I’ve made some pretty epic<br />

Korean barbeque-<strong>the</strong>med<br />

gift baskets using finds like<br />

bulgogi marinade, hot chile<br />

paste, and dukbokki-flavored<br />

potato chips <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> newly<br />

opened H Mart on Balboa<br />

Avenue.<br />

When it comes to holiday<br />

gift-giving, Mitsuwa<br />

Marketplace is a step ahead<br />

of <strong>the</strong> rest. Gift sets crowd<br />

<strong>the</strong> endcaps during <strong>the</strong><br />

holiday season, festively<br />

displaying <strong>the</strong> likes of sake<br />

gift sets, Pocky gift sets<br />

featuring every flavor under<br />

Delight your friends and family with perfectly<br />

wrapped treats like a box full of Japanese mochi.<br />

<strong>the</strong> sun, and soba noodle gift<br />

sets. Basically, if <strong>the</strong>y sell it,<br />

it’s likely to be bundled in an<br />

enticing gift set.<br />

While <strong>the</strong>se are all amazing<br />

options, <strong>the</strong> most lifechanging<br />

offerings can<br />

be found in <strong>the</strong> front of<br />

<strong>the</strong> store, where you’ll be<br />

greeted by rows of prewrapped<br />

bundles to satisfy<br />

all your gift-giving needs.<br />

Yes, you read that right—<strong>the</strong><br />

gifts are already perfectly<br />

wrapped.<br />

On top of each neat stack,<br />

an open box lets you peek at<br />

<strong>the</strong> delights tucked inside <strong>the</strong><br />

ready-to-give package, <strong>from</strong><br />

nori rice crackers to mochi,<br />

sesame-studded cookies to<br />

moon cakes. Whe<strong>the</strong>r sweet<br />

or savory or a combination<br />

of both, each set provides a<br />

bite-sized culinary adventure.<br />

This is a gift that always fits,<br />

is always surprising, and,<br />

did I mention, requires no<br />

wrapping. You’d be just as<br />

thrilled to receive one as<br />

you’d be to give one.<br />

» mitsuwa.com/sd<br />

www.leucadiafarmersmarket.com<br />

a comfortable, affordable healthy home awaits you<br />

EcoArtisan Builders<br />

Healthy Homes, Consciously Crafted<br />

Mark Letizia<br />

ecoartisan@mac.com<br />

license 882970<br />

www.ecoartisan.builders<br />

858.569.0415 phone<br />

6 ediblesandiego.com<br />

SPECIAL ISSUE • NOVEMBER 2019 | edible SAN DIEGO 7


LIVING LOCAL |<br />

Let’s Grow<br />

Garlic<br />

BY MARIA HESSE<br />

The highly nutritious garlic plant has very<br />

few calories and countless proven health<br />

benefits—but even better, every part of <strong>the</strong><br />

plant is edible and it’s incredibly easy to grow.<br />

Cathryn Henning, manager at Wild Willow<br />

Farm, indicates that late fall is <strong>the</strong> perfect<br />

time to plant it.<br />

“There are two types of garlic available:<br />

softneck and hardneck,” Henning explains.<br />

“Hardneck varieties form a garlic scape<br />

towards <strong>the</strong> end of maturity, which are<br />

delicious chopped up in a stir-fry. However,<br />

most hardneck varieties do best in cold<br />

climates.”<br />

Start by selecting a garlic variety suitable<br />

for our mild winters, like <strong>the</strong> Donostia<br />

Red grown at Wild Willow. Spicy and<br />

delicious, this hardneck Creole variety is<br />

<strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> Basque region of Spain, which has<br />

a microclimate similar to ours. This variety<br />

yields a vibrant fuchsia color at <strong>the</strong> base of <strong>the</strong><br />

stalk and bigger cloves thanks to our warm<br />

winters. Henning suggests planting mid-tolate<br />

autumn: “Garlic is considered a holiday<br />

plant. Plant on Halloween to harvest on <strong>the</strong><br />

4th of July. This doesn’t always work out with<br />

our mild winters, and we typically harvest<br />

mature heads as early as May. It’s best to plant<br />

garlic in October, although in <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>,<br />

folks have success planting as late as <strong>the</strong> end<br />

of November.”<br />

Garlic for growing can sell out fast and<br />

should only be “purchased directly <strong>from</strong> a<br />

seed company or <strong>from</strong> a local nursery,” adds<br />

Henning. “Our favorite online company is<br />

Adaptive Seeds and our favorite local nursery<br />

is City Farmers. Purchase garlic in whole<br />

heads and separate into individual cloves just<br />

before planting. Keep <strong>the</strong> paper intact to<br />

protect <strong>the</strong> clove <strong>from</strong> rotting in <strong>the</strong> ground.<br />

Garlic will sprout shortly <strong>the</strong>reafter.”<br />

Henning advises keeping garlic beds well<br />

weeded. “It hates competition,” she says.<br />

“We like to mulch our garlic with alfalfa to<br />

not only keep <strong>the</strong> weeds down and moisture<br />

in, but to also provide an additional source<br />

of nitrogen. Garlic is considered a heavy<br />

feeder, so make sure it has plenty of nitrogen<br />

bioavailable when you plant.”<br />

One thing in particular to love about garlic<br />

is that it can be harvested in various phases.<br />

The green garlic adorning <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> farmers’<br />

market booths in early spring is <strong>the</strong> young<br />

shoots of <strong>the</strong> plant that can be eaten before<br />

<strong>the</strong> bulb begins to form; <strong>the</strong>y’re similar to<br />

scallions in appearance but carry <strong>the</strong> rich<br />

flavor of garlic. To harvest green garlic, opt to<br />

ei<strong>the</strong>r collect <strong>the</strong> green shoots by trimming off<br />

what you need so that <strong>the</strong> plant can continue<br />

to mature, or harvest <strong>the</strong> whole plant and<br />

enjoy in place of garlic cloves in any recipe.<br />

Once you’ve harvested all <strong>the</strong> green garlic you<br />

want, let <strong>the</strong> plants continue to grow. Garlic<br />

scapes will appear and be ready to harvest on<br />

hardneck varieties just before <strong>the</strong> plant fully<br />

matures. Try <strong>the</strong>se in my personal favorite,<br />

maneuljong-muchim, a spicy Korean garlic<br />

scape salad made with gochujang, soy sauce,<br />

rice vinegar, and toasted sesame seeds.<br />

“Once <strong>the</strong> outer three or four leaves die off,<br />

turn off <strong>the</strong> water and pull away <strong>the</strong> mulch,<br />

allowing <strong>the</strong> plants to put <strong>the</strong>ir energy into<br />

bulbing up and away <strong>from</strong> leaf production.<br />

Be patient and make sure those leaves<br />

have fully died back before harvesting and<br />

curing,” Henning says. Leave harvested bulbs<br />

unwashed with stalks and roots intact, and<br />

cure in <strong>the</strong> shade for three to four weeks.<br />

Properly cured garlic typically lasts six to eight<br />

months, keeping you well stocked for <strong>the</strong><br />

year.<br />

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twist to traditional preserves. Perfectly<br />

balanced between sweet & spicy.<br />

Find us online and at your<br />

local farmers market<br />

@HotMamaJamz<br />

8 ediblesandiego.com<br />

SPECIAL ISSUE • NOVEMBER 2019 | edible SAN DIEGO 9


EATING WELL |<br />

| EATING WELL<br />

Skip <strong>the</strong> Takeout<br />

BY FELICIA CAMPBELL<br />

RECIPES AND STYLING BY FERN TRAN<br />

PHOTOGRAPHS BY OLIVIA HAYO<br />

ILLUSTRATIONS BY JAMIE RUNNELLS<br />

Sou<strong>the</strong>ast Asian cooking can be intimidating,<br />

but chef Fern Tran shares her favorite recipes<br />

for three classic rice noodle dishes that can be<br />

made in minutes and are perfect for sharing<br />

with family and friends.<br />

“I haven’t made Thai food in a long time,” says Fern Tran as she fries<br />

eggs and cubes of seasoned chicken breast in an oil-slicked wok.<br />

Tran moved to <strong>the</strong> States in 1995 <strong>from</strong> Isan in nor<strong>the</strong>rn Thailand, and she spends most of her time<br />

making elevated versions of pan-Asian classics in <strong>the</strong> kitchen at The Florence, where she is a chef and<br />

partner. She adds a few tongfuls of rubbery rice noodles. “Always <strong>the</strong> same—oil, egg, protein, noodle.<br />

See how <strong>the</strong>y don’t stick?”<br />

Rice noodles were introduced to Thailand by Vietnamese and Chinese immigrants, and <strong>the</strong>y are now<br />

essential ingredients in many classic Thai dishes, like Pad Thai, Tom Yum soup (which can also be served<br />

over rice or on its own), and Pad Kee Mao (drunken noodles), <strong>the</strong> very dish she was in <strong>the</strong> process of<br />

making.<br />

“Drunken noodles got <strong>the</strong>ir name after a long night of drinking, because you are hungry, and ei<strong>the</strong>r you or<br />

<strong>the</strong> street food vendors can take whatever is on hand and throw it toge<strong>the</strong>r for a quick, hearty meal. But it has<br />

to be spicy,” Tran winks, adding a ladle of dark liquid.<br />

“The combination of soy and dark soy is like a Thai mo<strong>the</strong>r sauce,” she says. “The dark soy is thick, salty, and a little<br />

sweet. It adds great umami, but you can’t use much of it because it is so rich. You have to cut it with regular soy. This is<br />

<strong>the</strong> basic sauce for Pad Kee Mao. Add some palm sugar and tamarind paste and you have <strong>the</strong> basic sauce for Pad Thai. There<br />

is no substitute for dark soy.”<br />

She tosses in a few broccoli florets, slivers of carrot, and chopped cabbage. “You can use any kind of vegetable or protein, <strong>the</strong>re is no rule.”<br />

She deftly plates <strong>the</strong> steaming noodles, topping <strong>the</strong>m with a few sprigs of Thai basil, fried garlic, and some hot chiles. “That’s it. Done.”<br />

The entire wok-frying process takes less than 10 minutes.<br />

WATCH CHEF TRAN<br />

MAKE PAD KEE MAO,<br />

TOM YUM NAM KHON,<br />

AND PAD THAI ON<br />

EDIBLE SAN DIEGO TV AT<br />

EDIBLESANDIEGO.COM.<br />

“I have to admit, when I crave Thai, I usually go to my friend’s restaurant Sabai Sabai in Oceanside. So when I started thinking about<br />

sharing classic rice noodle recipes, I called her for help,” she laughs. “It was good. It reminded me how easy our food is to make. Anyone<br />

can do it, and it doesn’t take a lot of time, but you do need to have <strong>the</strong> right ingredients.”<br />

<strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> County is spoiled with Asian grocery stores, where it is easy to stock up on pantry staples like oyster sauce, nam prik pao (Thai<br />

roasted chile paste), palm sugar, and rice noodles. We even have locally grown galangal available at <strong>the</strong> Chino Family Farm Vegetable Shop<br />

and ethically sourced proteins <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> likes of Tuna Harbor Dockside Market, Catalina Offshore Products, Da Le Ranch, and Three<br />

Sons Farm. And any of <strong>the</strong> dishes can be made vegetarian by swapping in more veggies or tofu and using mushroom-based fish and oyster<br />

sauces.<br />

With a few Thai pantry staples on hand, and a little time spent chopping, homestyle Thai noodle dishes take less time to make than<br />

ordering takeout.<br />

10 ediblesandiego.com<br />

SPECIAL ISSUE • NOVEMBER 2019 | edible SAN DIEGO 11


EATING WELL |<br />

| EATING WELL<br />

12 Thai Pantry Staples<br />

Soy Sauce and Dark Soy Sauce<br />

Chef Tran says <strong>the</strong>re is no substitute for<br />

thick, slightly sweet, super-rich dark soy<br />

sauce. Typically it’s too strong to be used<br />

on its own, so you’ll want to have some<br />

regular soy sauce on hand to cut it with.<br />

Oyster Sauce<br />

Yes, it actually is made <strong>from</strong> oyster juice,<br />

along with some sugar, salt, and soy<br />

sauce. It has a caramelized flavor that is a<br />

bit sweet and salty, and it adds depth, but<br />

not fishiness, to dishes.<br />

Fish Sauce<br />

Fish sauce is made by salting and<br />

fermenting fish, which leads to an umamirich,<br />

salty, earthy, slightly funky taste that<br />

is an essential flavor note in Sou<strong>the</strong>ast<br />

Asian cooking. Don’t skip it and don’t sniff<br />

it. Trust us.<br />

Nam Prik Pao<br />

This roasted chile paste is made by dry<br />

roasting chiles and garlic and simmering<br />

<strong>the</strong>m with shrimp paste, tamarind, fish<br />

sauce, and a little palm sugar. The fiery<br />

blend can be used as a condiment or added<br />

by <strong>the</strong> spoonful to Thai dishes as <strong>the</strong>y cook.<br />

Galangal<br />

Nope, it isn’t just a different name for<br />

ginger, though <strong>the</strong> roots are related.<br />

Compared to ginger, galangal has a slightly<br />

spicier bite and is less sweet when cooked.<br />

You can store fresh galangal in <strong>the</strong> freezer<br />

in an airtight bag for up to two months.<br />

Tamarind Paste<br />

Tran explains that in Thai cooking,<br />

tamarind paste is preferred over vinegar<br />

and citrus as <strong>the</strong> main source of sour flavor<br />

because it is more subtle. You can find<br />

tamarind pods in many Asian grocers, as<br />

well as blocks of <strong>the</strong> paste with <strong>the</strong> seeds<br />

still intact, but to make <strong>the</strong> watery puree<br />

needed for Thai cooking, <strong>the</strong> seeds need<br />

to be removed and <strong>the</strong> flesh soaked in<br />

hot water and pushed through a sieve.<br />

Alternatively, you can simply buy a jar of<br />

Thai-style tamarind paste, which is ready<br />

to go.<br />

Palm Sugar<br />

Do not use regular white sugar in Thai<br />

cooking. Just don’t do it. Palm sugar is<br />

made <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> sap of <strong>the</strong> coconut palm<br />

tree and is minimally processed for a flavor<br />

that is less sweet and more complex. In a<br />

pinch, <strong>the</strong> closest substitute is light brown<br />

sugar.<br />

Tom Yum Soup Base<br />

Chef Tran sees this convenience product<br />

as worth its weight in gold. Packed with<br />

galangal, lemongrass, palm sugar, chiles,<br />

tamarind, and o<strong>the</strong>r Thai seasonings, <strong>the</strong><br />

cost of <strong>the</strong> inputs is much higher than <strong>the</strong><br />

cost per bottle. Plus it makes cooking Tom<br />

Yum soup an easy weeknight undertaking.<br />

Lemongrass<br />

This ingredient adds a beautiful citrus scent<br />

and subtle flavor to dishes. To release <strong>the</strong><br />

most flavor, be sure to bruise or slightly<br />

crush <strong>the</strong> stalk before cooking. You’ll want<br />

firm stalks with fat, rounded bottoms,<br />

and be aware that you will only be using<br />

<strong>the</strong> white (bottom) portion of <strong>the</strong> stalk for<br />

cooking. You can freeze sliced lemongrass,<br />

or <strong>the</strong> whole stalk, just be sure to trim off<br />

<strong>the</strong> root ends and leaves first.<br />

Kaffir Lime Leaves<br />

The essential oils in kaffir lime leaves add<br />

a pungent, citrus aroma to soups and<br />

curries. The thick leaves hold up when<br />

simmered whole and are typically removed<br />

before serving, though you can shred <strong>the</strong>m<br />

into small strips and eat <strong>the</strong>m.They freeze<br />

well in an airtight bag.<br />

Thai Coconut Milk<br />

Thai coconut milk is basically <strong>the</strong><br />

equivalent of canned coconut cream. It has<br />

a much thicker texture and richer flavor<br />

than <strong>the</strong> watery coconut milks often found<br />

in <strong>the</strong> grocery store. Look for a Thai brand<br />

and opt for carton ra<strong>the</strong>r than can when<br />

available.<br />

Rice Noodles<br />

Traditionally, thin rice noodles are used for<br />

Pad Thai and added to Tom Yum soup, while<br />

wide rice noodles are used for Pad Kee<br />

Mao. These naturally gluten-free noodles<br />

cook very fast and need only be softened<br />

before adding to your wok or pot where<br />

<strong>the</strong>y will finish cooking. Chef Tran warns<br />

that most people use too many noodles<br />

when making Thai dishes, so it’s better<br />

to use about a quarter of what you think<br />

you’ll need.<br />

How to Prep thin Rice Noodles for Wok Frying and Soups<br />

1. Place<br />

noodles<br />

in a large<br />

bowl and<br />

cover with<br />

plenty of<br />

hot water.<br />

2. Soak<br />

for 15<br />

minutes<br />

and quickly<br />

Rinse with<br />

cold water.<br />

3. Use<br />

noodles in wok<br />

recipe Or soup.<br />

Pad Kee Mao (Drunken Noodles)<br />

with Chicken<br />

SERVES 6–8<br />

SAUCE<br />

¼ cup soy sauce<br />

1 tablespoon oyster sauce<br />

1 teaspoon dark soy sauce<br />

1 ½ tablespoons brown sugar<br />

½ tablespoon fish sauce<br />

1 teaspoon chile oil or crushed dried chile (optional)<br />

NOODLES<br />

2 pounds wide rice noodles<br />

2 eggs<br />

2 teaspoons soy sauce<br />

1 pound boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cut into thin strips<br />

1 tablespoon cornstarch<br />

3 tablespoons vegetable oil<br />

4 cloves garlic, minced<br />

½ yellow onion, chopped<br />

1 red bell pepper, seeded and chopped<br />

1 jalapeño, seeded and cut into very thin strips (optional)<br />

1 bunch scallions, cut into 1-inch pieces (keep <strong>the</strong> white/light<br />

green and dark green parts separate)<br />

½ cup thinly sliced bamboo shoots (optional)<br />

1 cup Thai basil leaves (or substitute regular basil)<br />

Make <strong>the</strong> sauce: Whisk all ingredients toge<strong>the</strong>r in a small<br />

bowl and set aside.<br />

Warm <strong>the</strong> noodles: If you’re using fresh noodles, place <strong>the</strong>m<br />

in a microwave-safe bowl, cover <strong>the</strong>m with a slightly damp<br />

paper towel, and microwave for 2 minutes. They should feel<br />

very flexible once you pull <strong>the</strong>m out. Separate <strong>the</strong> noodles<br />

into a bowl and set aside.<br />

Recipe continues on page 14<br />

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619-297-9797 | www.catalinaop.com<br />

12 ediblesandiego.com<br />

SPECIAL ISSUE • NOVEMBER 2019 | edible SAN DIEGO 13


EATING WELL |<br />

| EATING WELL<br />

Tom Yum Nam Khon is a<br />

popular version of Tom Yum<br />

soup with <strong>the</strong> addition of<br />

shrimp and coconut milk.<br />

HUNGRY FOR<br />

MORE?<br />

READY TO SERVE<br />

Garnish Thai dishes with extra<br />

dried chiles, slices of galangal,<br />

kaffir lime leaves, and stalks of<br />

lemongrass. They help infuse<br />

deeper levels of flavor and boost<br />

visual appearance but should not<br />

be eaten.<br />

Pad Kee Mao continued...<br />

Whisk toge<strong>the</strong>r eggs and soy sauce in a<br />

small bowl and set aside. In ano<strong>the</strong>r bowl,<br />

mix <strong>the</strong> chicken with cornstarch until all<br />

<strong>the</strong> pieces are coated. Set aside.<br />

Heat a large wok or skillet over mediumhigh<br />

heat. Add <strong>the</strong> oil and garlic, stirring<br />

constantly for 30 seconds until <strong>the</strong> garlic<br />

is barely golden brown. Don’t walk away<br />

because garlic burns quickly! Once <strong>the</strong><br />

garlic is just turning golden brown, add<br />

chicken and use a wooden spoon to<br />

distribute chicken in an even layer over<br />

<strong>the</strong> bottom of <strong>the</strong> pan. Cook, stirring<br />

frequently, until <strong>the</strong> chicken is golden<br />

brown, 3 to 5 minutes.<br />

Lower <strong>the</strong> heat slightly and move <strong>the</strong><br />

chicken and garlic to one side of <strong>the</strong> pan.<br />

On <strong>the</strong> exposed side, pour in <strong>the</strong> egg and<br />

soy sauce mixture. Allow <strong>the</strong> eggs to cook<br />

for 2 to 3 minutes until set, <strong>the</strong>n break up<br />

<strong>the</strong> eggs into pieces with a spoon, and<br />

stir everything back toge<strong>the</strong>r. Add <strong>the</strong><br />

onion, bell pepper, jalapeño (if using),<br />

and <strong>the</strong> white and light green parts of <strong>the</strong><br />

scallions. Cook until <strong>the</strong> veggies start to<br />

soften, 2 to 3 minutes. Add noodles to<br />

<strong>the</strong> pan with <strong>the</strong> sauce, Thai basil, dark<br />

green parts of <strong>the</strong> scallions, and bamboo<br />

shoots. Cook, stirring occasionally,<br />

until <strong>the</strong> noodles have absorbed all <strong>the</strong><br />

sauce, about 2 more minutes. Serve<br />

immediately.<br />

Pad Thai<br />

SERVES 4<br />

1 pound boneless, skinless chicken<br />

breasts, cut into ½-inch pieces<br />

1 tablespoon cornstarch<br />

1 teaspoon baking powder<br />

1 cup vegetable oil, divided<br />

1 pound thin rice noodles<br />

½ cup tamarind purée<br />

½ cup palm sugar<br />

4 tablespoons fish sauce<br />

2 tablespoons soy sauce<br />

2 tablespoons dark soy sauce<br />

4 eggs<br />

3 tablespoons rice vinegar<br />

1 cup chicken stock<br />

2 cups bean sprouts<br />

1 cup sliced scallions<br />

½ pound fried tofu, cut into 2-inch pieces<br />

GARNISH<br />

4 tablespoons crushed roasted peanuts<br />

4 lime wedges<br />

4 tablespoons crushed dried chile<br />

In a large bowl, mix chicken, cornstarch,<br />

baking powder, and 2 tablespoons<br />

vegetable oil; marinate for 10 minutes.<br />

Place noodles in a large bowl and pour<br />

over plenty of hot water to cover. Soak<br />

for 15 minutes, <strong>the</strong>n quickly rinse in cold<br />

water.<br />

Prepare <strong>the</strong> sauce by mixing tamarind<br />

purée, palm sugar, fish sauce, soy sauce,<br />

and dark soy sauce in a saucepan over<br />

medium heat and boil until it thickens,<br />

about 2 minutes.<br />

Heat 5 tablespoons vegetable oil in a large<br />

nonstick pan over high heat. Add egg and<br />

scramble for 1 minute. Add chicken and<br />

cook about 2 minutes, or until chicken and<br />

egg is about 80% cooked. Add noodles<br />

and scramble until soft.<br />

Add sauce, vinegar, and chicken stock<br />

and mix toge<strong>the</strong>r well. Add bean sprouts,<br />

scallions, and tofu, stirring occassionally<br />

for 2 more minutes until everything is<br />

incorporated.<br />

Garnish with crushed peanuts and serve<br />

immediately with lime wedges on <strong>the</strong><br />

side, along with crushed dried chile if you<br />

like it spicy.<br />

Tom Yum Nam Khon<br />

SERVES 4<br />

1 pound thin rice noodles<br />

2 ½ cups chicken stock<br />

3 tablespoons tom yum paste<br />

2 stalks lemongrass, white part only,<br />

pounded and bruised<br />

6 kaffir lime leaves, bruised<br />

5 thin slices fresh galangal<br />

6 ounces medium-sized shrimp, shelled<br />

and deveined<br />

4 white mushrooms, quartered<br />

3 tablespoons nam prik pao (Thai<br />

roasted chile paste)<br />

1 tablespoon fish sauce, or to taste<br />

¼ cup canned coconut milk<br />

3 tablespoons lime juice<br />

Cilantro leaves, for garnish<br />

Place noodles in a large bowl and pour<br />

over plenty of hot water to cover. Soak<br />

for 15 minutes, <strong>the</strong>n quickly rinse in<br />

cold water.<br />

While noodles are soaking, bring<br />

chicken stock to a boil in a large pot.<br />

Add tom yum paste, lemongrass,<br />

kaffir lime leaves, and galangal<br />

and boil for 1 minute. Add shrimp,<br />

mushrooms, and nam prik pao.<br />

Continue boiling until <strong>the</strong> shrimp are<br />

cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir<br />

in fish sauce and coconut milk. Turn<br />

off <strong>the</strong> heat and add noodles and lime<br />

juice. Stir to combine well. Garnish<br />

with cilantro, ladle broth over top, and<br />

enjoy.<br />

We publish new seasonal<br />

recipes every week. Get<br />

inspired at ediblesandiego.com.<br />

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Brown Rice Congee<br />

By Fernanda Larson<br />

Whole Fried Local Sculpin with Snap Pea<br />

Salad and Tamarind Chili Sauce<br />

By Paul Arias<br />

Spicy Citrus-Glazed Yellowtail Collars<br />

By Nick Brune<br />

FAMILY GATHERINGS<br />

Baharat-Spiced Da-Le Ranch Heritage<br />

Turkey<br />

By Olivia Hayo and Haley<br />

Weisberger<br />

Gluten-Free Vegan Oat & Coconut<br />

Cookies<br />

By Sylvie Colange<br />

Classic Pumpkin Pie<br />

By Tina Luu<br />

14 ediblesandiego.com<br />

SPECIAL ISSUE • NOVEMBER 2019 | edible SAN DIEGO 15


GROWING GOOD |<br />

| GROWING GOOD<br />

TRUE HEIRLOOMS<br />

BY MARIA HESSE<br />

PHOTOGRAPHS BY OLIVIA HAYO<br />

The Vegetable Shop at Chino Family Farm<br />

doesn’t open until 10am, but crowds begin<br />

to swell much earlier. The cash-only farm<br />

stand has plenty to choose <strong>from</strong>, and <strong>the</strong><br />

dizzying number of varieties exhibit what’s<br />

truly in season in <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>.<br />

In <strong>the</strong> moments between <strong>the</strong> ebb and flow of<br />

<strong>the</strong> market, Makoto Chino asks if anyone has a<br />

recipe to recommend. He’s planning an elaborate<br />

dinner party for nine. “What are you making?”<br />

I ask before he rapidly fires back with a list of<br />

complex dishes that I can’t conceive of making on<br />

a weeknight. Given <strong>the</strong> collection of signatures<br />

<strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> notable chefs that have ga<strong>the</strong>red on<br />

<strong>the</strong> farm’s kitchen wall, it’s not a surprise that his<br />

culinary interests are advanced beyond my limited<br />

practice of using olive oil, acid, salt, and pepper on<br />

everything.<br />

Still, of all <strong>the</strong> renowned chefs that visit <strong>the</strong><br />

farm, Makoto says, “It’s just as exciting to have<br />

someone come and recognize things like hoja<br />

santa or winged beans that <strong>the</strong>y haven’t seen since<br />

<strong>the</strong>y left <strong>the</strong>ir hometown in Thailand.”<br />

For <strong>the</strong> 29-year-old, food defines family. “Food<br />

for me has such an emotional impact,” Makoto<br />

says. “It reminds me of home and family. When<br />

people see <strong>the</strong>se things, it reminds <strong>the</strong>m of home.”<br />

So much so that his parents had to ship vegetables<br />

to him when he went to college at Washington<br />

University in St. Louis, followed by law school<br />

at UCLA. “There are people who say it’s not<br />

summertime unless <strong>the</strong>y have Chino Farm corn.<br />

They come <strong>from</strong> Arizona and Texas to <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong><br />

in <strong>the</strong> summer, and it’s not <strong>the</strong>ir summertime<br />

until <strong>the</strong>y get our corn.”<br />

The Vegetable Shop is <strong>the</strong> farm’s retail point<br />

of operation, and it’s a sensory experience with<br />

homespun charm where tables, boxes, and shelves<br />

are rife with alluring hues and herbaceous aromas.<br />

“The only thing that we have here that we don’t<br />

grow ourselves are <strong>the</strong> oranges,” explains Makoto.<br />

“They’re <strong>from</strong> an old family friend that used to<br />

have a citrus farm who now has 10 trees for us,<br />

and <strong>the</strong>y only grow for us. He leaves [<strong>the</strong> oranges]<br />

on <strong>the</strong> tree for a year so <strong>the</strong>y get super sweet.”<br />

The 45-acre working farm, which lies within<br />

eyesight of <strong>the</strong> farm stand, is intensely rustic, with<br />

hoop houses, overgrown row crops, berry bushes,<br />

and small groves of fig and apple trees. When<br />

Chino Family Farm was started by Makoto’s<br />

grandparents Junzo and Hatsuyo over 70 years<br />

ago, <strong>the</strong>re was no such thing as organic certified<br />

farming practices, only doing what was right for<br />

<strong>the</strong> quality that <strong>the</strong>y wished to produce. This<br />

practice is what has been handed down to four of<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir nine children: Makoto’s fa<strong>the</strong>r Tom manages<br />

<strong>the</strong> farm with his bro<strong>the</strong>rs Fred and Frank and<br />

sister Kazumi.<br />

Makoto, whose name means “truthfulness”<br />

in Japanese, grew up on <strong>the</strong> farm. His earliest<br />

memory is of his mom yelling at him and one of<br />

<strong>the</strong> farm’s loyal Jack Russell terriers biting her in<br />

his defense when he was three or four. He started<br />

working <strong>the</strong>re when he was eight, and aside <strong>from</strong><br />

two younger cousins that work at <strong>the</strong> farm during<br />

<strong>the</strong> summer, he’s <strong>the</strong> only member of <strong>the</strong> third<br />

generation working at <strong>the</strong> farm full-time for <strong>the</strong><br />

foreseeable future.<br />

With Makoto’s unofficial role being house<br />

council and assistant manager, growing practices<br />

are admittedly not his field of expertise. Still, after<br />

working primarily in <strong>the</strong> field for more than half<br />

his life, and <strong>the</strong> past few years in <strong>the</strong> Vegetable<br />

Shop, Makoto understands <strong>the</strong> challenges that lie<br />

ahead and <strong>the</strong> value of <strong>the</strong> farm’s prestige.<br />

As is <strong>the</strong> case with many farms in <strong>the</strong> region,<br />

water is an increasing hardship. They grow, in<br />

part, with well water but pay residential water<br />

rates on supplemental sources. For this, <strong>the</strong>re<br />

is no agricultural subsidy and <strong>the</strong> cost of water<br />

means <strong>the</strong>y “just get destroyed,” Makoto says.<br />

“And it’s getting worse and worse because <strong>the</strong>re’s<br />

salt intrusion <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> ocean. Water prices are<br />

huge, and our water is sometimes four times more<br />

expensive than in o<strong>the</strong>r places.”<br />

Additional concerns come with managing new<br />

state labor regulations. “Farm workers used to be<br />

overtime exempt in California, and that’s about<br />

to end. So <strong>the</strong>y’ll get paid time and a half for<br />

overtime,” says Makoto. “A big farm can switch<br />

farm workers between farms to work around this,<br />

but something small like this, where everyone<br />

requires specialized knowledge and it’s a yearround<br />

operation, it’s really going to hurt small<br />

farms.”<br />

Makoto refers to <strong>the</strong> farm’s employees with<br />

respect, noting that many of <strong>the</strong> seasonal migrant<br />

farmers <strong>from</strong> Oaxaca have worked <strong>the</strong> farm for 30<br />

years, and some of <strong>the</strong>ir fa<strong>the</strong>rs were even <strong>the</strong>re<br />

before <strong>the</strong>m. The specialized knowledge doesn’t<br />

end in <strong>the</strong> field, however: Some of <strong>the</strong> familiar<br />

faces at <strong>the</strong> farm stand have been answering<br />

question and sharing recommendations on how to<br />

eat <strong>the</strong> unique heirlooms and varietals for decades.<br />

Preserving this level of expertise is fundamental<br />

to <strong>the</strong> farm’s success as <strong>the</strong> number of fruits and<br />

vegetables cultivated every year is staggering.<br />

“I think we grow maybe 60 types of fruits and<br />

vegetables. That being said, of <strong>the</strong> types of<br />

vegetables, this year we have 150 varieties of<br />

tomatoes, five different varieties of strawberries, 30<br />

varieties of squash, and 25 micro[green] varieties,”<br />

says Makoto.<br />

Additionally, <strong>the</strong> farm keeps on top of culinary<br />

trends with newly developed crops. “Every year,<br />

<strong>the</strong>re’s at least three new things. This year, <strong>the</strong> hot<br />

thing is hot peppers that have been bred so <strong>the</strong>y<br />

have no heat. You get all <strong>the</strong> flavor of <strong>the</strong>m but<br />

<strong>the</strong>y are really good for aguachiles or if you are<br />

trying to control <strong>the</strong> spiciness of your salsa. They’re<br />

cool. There’s <strong>the</strong> Habanada, it’s like <strong>the</strong> habanero<br />

without <strong>the</strong> heat, and <strong>the</strong> Trinidad Perfume that’s<br />

like <strong>the</strong> Trinidad Scorpion. We also have <strong>the</strong><br />

peach-colored raspberries that are new this year,<br />

and we brought back <strong>the</strong> Alpine berries that we<br />

haven’t had in like 15 years,” explains Makoto. The<br />

proficiency <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> devoted staff is not only key<br />

to cultivation, but also in informing consumers—<br />

<strong>from</strong> acclaimed restaurants to <strong>the</strong> curious passerby.<br />

They’re introducing beehives to <strong>the</strong> fields,<br />

and will continue offering special events at<br />

<strong>the</strong> Vegetable Shop (in <strong>the</strong> past <strong>the</strong>y’ve had<br />

cookbook signings with notable chefs like Yotam<br />

Ottolenghi, Jacques Pépin, and Sean Brock).<br />

They also sell curated specialty items, baked<br />

goods <strong>from</strong> Wayfarer Bread in Bird Rock, and<br />

<strong>the</strong> newer offering of Cafe Nōjō cold brewed<br />

or hot coffee brewed with exclusive beans <strong>from</strong><br />

Manzanita Coffee Roasters. It’s all enough to keep<br />

people lined up six days a week. “We have loyal<br />

customers, and <strong>the</strong>y want us to exist,” Makoto<br />

says.<br />

Tom, who says he’s done enough media this<br />

year and doesn’t believe in advertising, websites,<br />

or social media, graces <strong>the</strong> Vegetable Shop in our<br />

presence long enough to confirm that we have<br />

sweet potatoes, pumpkins and hard squashes,<br />

lettuces, greens, broccoli, cauliflower, and<br />

cucumbers to look forward to this season.<br />

I ask Makoto what he wants people to know<br />

about <strong>the</strong> farm. “It’s a philosophy that I’ve learned<br />

<strong>from</strong> my parents: If you’re doing something to get<br />

rich, you’re doing something for <strong>the</strong> wrong reason.<br />

If your primary incentive is to make money, you’re<br />

going to cut corners,” he shares.<br />

Such ideology is an example of <strong>the</strong> quiet and<br />

humble passion that keeps <strong>the</strong> Chino Family Farm<br />

thriving. It’s a difference that “hopefully you can<br />

taste,” Makoto says. s<br />

» chinofamilyfarm.com<br />

16 ediblesandiego.com<br />

SPECIAL ISSUE • NOVEMBER 2019 | edible SAN DIEGO 17


| FEATURE<br />

Tasting<br />

Notes<br />

BY PAUL HORMICK<br />

PHOTOGRAPHS BY HARRISON LINSEY<br />

AND REBECCA MATAYOSHI<br />

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In <strong>the</strong> shade of a magnolia tree,<br />

just as <strong>the</strong> first course is served—a peach and brie vol-au-vent—<strong>the</strong><br />

enchanting strains of a quartet makes its way to <strong>the</strong> tables and diners. The<br />

mid-20th-century bassoon piece is lively and fun, and <strong>the</strong> same can be said of<br />

<strong>the</strong> pastry: A finger food that is savory and tart at <strong>the</strong> same time. This is Dually<br />

Noted, synergizing music and dining into a new experience.<br />

Rebecca Matayoshi established Dually Noted three years ago as a way to<br />

create a dining experience in which all <strong>the</strong> courses are prepared to perfectly<br />

complement <strong>the</strong> music of <strong>the</strong> evening. “I like food, and I love music,” she says.<br />

“This was a way that I could engage my passions.”<br />

To create a Dually Noted event, Matayoshi, a violist with <strong>the</strong> Hawaii<br />

Symphony and an acting section violist with <strong>the</strong> <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> Symphony, works<br />

with a classical musician who chooses a musical program. The music is <strong>the</strong>n<br />

presented to a chef, who creates a meal to reflect <strong>the</strong> feeling and mood of <strong>the</strong><br />

pieces chosen for <strong>the</strong> evening.<br />

This evening, during <strong>the</strong> main course, <strong>the</strong> music is for bassoon and<br />

prerecorded tape, a piece quite modern and worthy of serious listening.<br />

The music zigs and zags, and so does <strong>the</strong> food. The chef, Yara Lamers, says,<br />

“Tonight’s <strong>the</strong>me is American Summer, so I chose something very American:<br />

chicken and gravy. But <strong>the</strong>re were twists and turns with <strong>the</strong> music, so I threw<br />

in some twists and turns with <strong>the</strong> food. I thought, ‘How can I make you feel a<br />

surprise with <strong>the</strong> food?’ I wanted a familiar American feel, but a new America<br />

as well.”<br />

Matayoshi emphasizes <strong>the</strong> creativity of each Dually Noted event. “A chef<br />

may train for years, going to culinary school, working as a sous chef, and wind<br />

up working in a restaurant where <strong>the</strong> menu is already set. Musicians train for<br />

years, go to conservatory, and as symphony players don’t choose what <strong>the</strong>y<br />

play. This is a chance for musicians to choose <strong>the</strong> music that <strong>the</strong>y play. And it’s<br />

similar for <strong>the</strong> chefs that we work with.”<br />

Dually Noted occurs on a Monday every o<strong>the</strong>r month in an intimate house<br />

concert setting. Tickets are also available for those who want to listen to <strong>the</strong><br />

music without having dinner. The atmosphere is casual and comfortable:<br />

Tonight <strong>the</strong>re are plenty of cargo pants and Hawaiian shirts, and no high heels.<br />

Matayoshi takes all of <strong>the</strong> photos used on <strong>the</strong> website for Dually Noted, as<br />

photography is ano<strong>the</strong>r one of her passions. The Chicago native knew that she<br />

wanted to become a musician when she performed a concerto with her youth<br />

orchestra and realized <strong>the</strong> power that music has to move people. “After <strong>the</strong><br />

performance, some people told me that <strong>the</strong>y cried,” she says. She landed her<br />

first job with an orchestra performing in Osaka, Japan. “The experience helped<br />

to show me who I was,” she says. “Here, I’m seen as Asian. There, I was seen as<br />

an American.”<br />

Matayoshi says that folks can expect more than great food and music if <strong>the</strong>y<br />

attend a Dually Noted event: “They will be immersed in a unique social and<br />

sensory experience, meeting people <strong>the</strong>y may have never crossed paths with<br />

and absorbing music and food at <strong>the</strong> highest level. Whe<strong>the</strong>r <strong>the</strong>y are familiar<br />

with <strong>the</strong> music and food is less relevant, it’s <strong>the</strong> manner of presentation that<br />

makes it special and memorable.” s<br />

» duallynoted.org<br />

SPECIAL ISSUE • NOVEMBER 2019 | edible SAN DIEGO 19


FEATURE |<br />

| FEATURE<br />

TOP TO BOTTOM:<br />

PRISSANA “FERN” TRAN;<br />

NINO CAMILO; KAZUHIRO<br />

FUNATO AND TAKERU<br />

FURUYA; TONY NGUYEN<br />

ASIAN-ISH<br />

Bowls of rice porridge<br />

spark animated discussion about <strong>the</strong> comforting<br />

versions that span <strong>East</strong> Asian cultures. It’s called<br />

congee in China, dakjuk in Korea, and on this<br />

particular morning, chef-partner Prissana ‘Fern’<br />

Tran presents a version that’s made its way to<br />

<strong>the</strong> menu at The Florence in Sabre Springs.<br />

Filled with chicken broth, ginger, a sous vide<br />

egg, chicken meatball, scallions, spicy chile oil,<br />

and cilantro, it’s an elevated version of what<br />

Tran grew up eating <strong>from</strong> street vendors in<br />

Thailand. The porridge transports everyone<br />

around <strong>the</strong> table back to early food memories.<br />

A diverse group of <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>’s chefs and food<br />

influencers including Hawaiian Fresh Seafood<br />

ambassador Nino Camilo, Kazuhiro Funato<br />

and Takeru Furuya <strong>from</strong> UMI Restaurant,<br />

Tony Nguyen of Supernatural <strong>San</strong>dwiches, and<br />

Tran have ga<strong>the</strong>red to discuss Asian cuisine and<br />

culture in <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>.<br />

Orange chicken and California rolls are<br />

easily recognized as “Asian cuisine,” but <strong>the</strong>y<br />

offer little resemblance to traditional fare. It’s<br />

easy to disregard such hybridized dishes, and<br />

<strong>the</strong>se examples show <strong>the</strong> impacts Asian cuisine<br />

has had in shaping <strong>the</strong> new American palate.<br />

Without <strong>the</strong> spices, ideas, and techniques that<br />

immigrated to <strong>the</strong> United States with previous<br />

generations, dishes and flavors that we’ve come<br />

to crave would be far less accessible, interesting,<br />

and diverse.<br />

Asians came to <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> for different<br />

reasons, some families fleeing war and poverty<br />

across <strong>the</strong> world’s largest ocean. According to<br />

Elsa Sevilla at <strong>the</strong> <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> History Center,<br />

Asian immigration in <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> started in<br />

<strong>the</strong> 1880s. Immigrants brought very little<br />

or nothing at all and faced many hardships.<br />

“They became accomplished in <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>’s<br />

fishing, farming, and o<strong>the</strong>r industries with <strong>the</strong><br />

economic boom of <strong>the</strong> 1880s. Local businesses<br />

and housing markets were rapidly growing, and<br />

<strong>the</strong> transcontinental railroad in National City<br />

needed workers to lay thousands of miles of<br />

track,” Sevilla explains.<br />

Filipino students came to <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> State<br />

University under an education program in <strong>the</strong><br />

early 1900s. Some stayed and took jobs on<br />

local farms or worked in downtown restaurants<br />

as busboys and cooks, but <strong>the</strong>y were restricted<br />

to live and work in specific areas on Market<br />

Street and in sou<strong>the</strong>astern <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>. Japan’s<br />

Meiji Restoration during <strong>the</strong> 1850s forced<br />

thousands to first migrate to Hawaii to work on<br />

pineapple plantations, followed by a migration<br />

to California after Hawaii became part of <strong>the</strong><br />

US in 1898. In 1905, nearly 1,000 Koreans<br />

left <strong>the</strong>ir country for Mexico under a four-year<br />

program to work on haciendas. Some of <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

descendants made <strong>the</strong>ir way to Tijuana and <strong>San</strong><br />

<strong>Diego</strong>, creating a distinctly Mexican-Korean-<br />

American culture.<br />

For second-generation Asian Americans, <strong>the</strong><br />

dishes and comfort foods of childhood are often<br />

different than those of <strong>the</strong>ir parents who grew<br />

up in ano<strong>the</strong>r country. Nguyen was born and<br />

raised in <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> to parents who immigrated<br />

BY MICHELLE STANSBURY<br />

PHOTOGRAPHS BY JAMES TRAN<br />

to <strong>the</strong> US <strong>from</strong> Vietnam in <strong>the</strong> first wave of<br />

refugees after <strong>the</strong> war. His parents met stateside<br />

while staying in a temporary refugee settlement<br />

at Camp Pendleton, and were proud to raise<br />

Nguyen on American food. “My parents tried<br />

to give me <strong>the</strong> American experience by making<br />

me home-cooked meals like meatloaf, lasagna,<br />

and o<strong>the</strong>r American fare. They also took me<br />

to a lot of American restaurants and fast food<br />

joints. The food I cook and eat reflects both<br />

identities in some ways, but for <strong>the</strong> most part<br />

my cooking is based on my experiences trying<br />

o<strong>the</strong>r cuisines like Chinese, Japanese, Korean,<br />

Laotian, and Thai. This is reflected through<br />

<strong>the</strong> ingredients on my menu and creations,”<br />

Nguyen says.<br />

Nguyen has gained success by introducing<br />

Asian flavors to American staples at<br />

Supernatural <strong>San</strong>dwiches. Take, for example,<br />

<strong>the</strong> Kaiju sandwich, which turns <strong>the</strong> American<br />

lobster roll on its head by stuffing it with<br />

Cantonese-style lobster and serving it with<br />

togarashi shrimp chips. Nguyen shares how<br />

he gets his ideas: “I like going to all <strong>the</strong> Asian<br />

markets. I like walking down all <strong>the</strong> aisles<br />

and looking at every single ingredient. It gets<br />

my creative juices flowing. It all inspires me.<br />

Asian food is about depth of flavor—a little bit<br />

of acid, sweet, sour, and bitterness. So many<br />

complexities open your palate. There are so<br />

many levels of flavor.”<br />

Tran shares platters of chicken wings<br />

smo<strong>the</strong>red in a zesty sauce infused with a<br />

combination of Korean- and Thai-inspired<br />

flavors, alongside bowls of kimchi fried rice. “I<br />

don’t believe Asian food in America needs to be<br />

restricted to being specialized. It’s a free country,<br />

do what inspires you,” she explains with a smile.<br />

Camilo casts <strong>the</strong> concept of fusion in a<br />

new light, saying that au<strong>the</strong>nticity is about<br />

understanding <strong>the</strong> history of a cuisine<br />

and learning about its evolution. Modern<br />

interpretations of traditional dishes can<br />

be incredible, but creativity comes <strong>from</strong><br />

understanding <strong>the</strong>ir provenance. Camilo<br />

provides an example: “Within Filipino cuisine,<br />

<strong>the</strong> history of <strong>the</strong> culture and <strong>the</strong> influences in<br />

<strong>the</strong> Philippines [comes <strong>from</strong>] Spanish, Mexican,<br />

Chinese, and Muslim [cultures]. For standout<br />

dishes that come <strong>from</strong> actual restaurants, try<br />

<strong>the</strong> pig ear sisig <strong>from</strong> chef DJ Tangalin at Gaya<br />

Gaya. SNOICE also does a great job of serving<br />

halo-halo, a traditional dessert served in a shop<br />

with modern-style branding.”<br />

Reflecting back on how much Asian cuisine<br />

has changed since he was a child, Camilo<br />

describes Convoy Street as trendy. "Growing<br />

up, we would go take grandma shopping, and<br />

it was always on Convoy or at Vien Dong.<br />

Now, everyone thinks those places are cool!<br />

And I don’t have to be ashamed to put kimchi<br />

on <strong>the</strong> table anymore, everyone wants kimchi<br />

now. Even my gas station in Cardiff carries<br />

Kikkoman soy sauce.”<br />

Camilo shares that since Filipino food hasn’t<br />

reached a cult following in <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> (yet), he<br />

sees <strong>the</strong> evolution most clearly represented in<br />

<strong>the</strong> poke bowl trend he’s helped to promote. “I<br />

feel that for some poke shop owners, <strong>the</strong>ir first<br />

experience of a poke bowl was not in Hawaii,<br />

it was in California—or maybe elsewhere.<br />

So now <strong>the</strong>y are thinking that is poke.” The<br />

problem is not adapting poke to <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong><br />

produce or tastes, it’s when a cultural food<br />

trend accelerates so quickly that purveyors<br />

who lack ties to <strong>the</strong> cuisine appropriate a dish<br />

without understanding <strong>the</strong> historical identity<br />

of <strong>the</strong> flavors, <strong>the</strong> components, and <strong>the</strong> cultural<br />

experience of consuming <strong>the</strong> dish.<br />

For Funato, preserving and presenting<br />

au<strong>the</strong>nticity renews focus. At UMI, <strong>the</strong> physical<br />

mastery of techniques is just as important<br />

as <strong>the</strong> mental understanding of a cuisine. In<br />

Japan, routine kitchen tasks like making rice or<br />

cutting fish are elevated to an art form. Chefs<br />

often spend years mastering <strong>the</strong> craft of <strong>the</strong>se<br />

essential components of Japanese cuisine before<br />

beginning to innovate.<br />

Although <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> has an incredible<br />

selection of local fresh fish, Funato only serves<br />

fish that is prepared ikejime. He has not been<br />

able to find fish processed at a quality to his<br />

liking locally, so Funato imports <strong>the</strong> fish <strong>from</strong><br />

Japan, where ikejime is executed with such<br />

attention to detail as to not allow heat <strong>from</strong><br />

hands to warm <strong>the</strong> fish. The live fish is placed<br />

on a sponge mat to keep <strong>the</strong> fish calm, pH<br />

levels are kept balanced, and, most notably, a<br />

steel spike is quickly and humanely inserted<br />

into <strong>the</strong> brain and spinal cord, producing<br />

improved fillets with longer shelf life and a<br />

brilliant umami flavor that sets it apart.<br />

While some Japanese restaurants serve miso<br />

soup without much attention, UMI prepares<br />

it with great care. Funato shares, “When we<br />

make miso soup, first we make dashi soup to<br />

make umami and <strong>the</strong>n put miso after. This is<br />

<strong>the</strong> traditional way to make miso soup. There<br />

is so much time spent on each menu item. For<br />

example, we have a menu item called sliced<br />

pork fillet that takes us almost 30 hours to<br />

make. This item looks simple, but <strong>the</strong>re is so<br />

much time we put into it, and love too.”<br />

In order to keep tradition alive at UMI,<br />

Funato brought in head chef Furuya, also <strong>from</strong><br />

Tokyo, to lead an all-Japanese kitchen staff.<br />

Furuya’s family, still in Japan, manufacturers <strong>the</strong><br />

ramen noodles that <strong>the</strong>y use at UMI. “All of us<br />

in <strong>the</strong> kitchen grew up with Japanese food and<br />

culture, which is hard to learn. We want to keep<br />

real au<strong>the</strong>ntic Japanese foods alive in North<br />

County and hopefully educate about what real<br />

au<strong>the</strong>ntic Japanese foods are.”<br />

Au<strong>the</strong>nticity, <strong>the</strong>n, isn’t so much about<br />

traditional interpretations of dishes, but more<br />

so about maintaining a respect for <strong>the</strong> cuisine<br />

that transcends trends. Chefs get inspiration<br />

<strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir families, upbringing, and memories<br />

of childhood dishes, and make <strong>the</strong>m a part of<br />

<strong>the</strong> <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> foodscape. Each dish shares <strong>the</strong><br />

story of who <strong>the</strong>y are, influences <strong>the</strong> regional<br />

culinary journey, inspires us to learn about<br />

tradition, seek out richer flavors, and enrich our<br />

culture. s<br />

20 ediblesandiego.com<br />

SPECIAL ISSUE • NOVEMBER 2019 | edible SAN DIEGO 21


| FRIENDS WITH BENEFITS<br />

edible<br />

reader survey<br />

TALK TO US<br />

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Take our reader survey this month<br />

and we’ll send you a beautiful<br />

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Type this link into your browser to participate:<br />

ediblecommunities.com/survey<br />

The survey is being conducted by GfK MRI, an independent research firm. All responses are confidential.<br />

An Officer and a Director<br />

BY BETH DEMMON<br />

PHOTOGRAPHS BY JAMES TRAN<br />

According to Vince Hall, CEO of Feeding <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>, our city doesn’t have a<br />

food shortage problem. That’s because 40% of <strong>the</strong> food in <strong>the</strong> county gets<br />

thrown away every day, which is “more than enough to solve <strong>the</strong> problem of<br />

hunger,” says Hall. Instead, “We have a food distribution problem,” Hall says.<br />

Feeding <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> is <strong>the</strong> county’s leading hunger relief agency that works<br />

to alleviate food insecurity in <strong>the</strong> region by rescuing food <strong>from</strong> over 500<br />

locations. They <strong>the</strong>n redistribute it—up to 85% of which is fresh, healthy<br />

produce—to key places where food insecurity is most prominent.<br />

Over 400,000 people in <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> County alone are classified as “food<br />

insecure,” which is defined as having a lack of available financial resources for<br />

food on a regular or sporadic basis. But <strong>the</strong>re’s a difference between a feeling of<br />

hunger and <strong>the</strong> long-term implications of food insecurity, a point that Hall is<br />

quick to identify.<br />

“No one is just hungry,” says Hall. “Hunger is always accompanied by o<strong>the</strong>r<br />

economic challenges.”<br />

When <strong>the</strong> deadly Hepatitis A outbreak that claimed 20 lives in <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong><br />

spread through <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>’s homeless population in 2017, thousands of people<br />

already struggling with lack of housing, healthcare, and o<strong>the</strong>r social services<br />

found <strong>the</strong>mselves in an especially vulnerable situation. That’s when Feeding<br />

<strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> teamed up with Lucky Duck Foundation to provide easier access to<br />

resources.<br />

“It is a privilege to work with an organization that prides itself on<br />

maximizing resources, teamwork, and helping those in need,” says Drew<br />

Moser, executive director at Lucky Duck Foundation. Moser immediately saw<br />

<strong>the</strong> benefit of joining forces with a logistics operation that harbored a similar<br />

capacity for empathy. By leveraging Feeding <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>’s already-established<br />

distribution network, Lucky Duck is now better able to give support to those<br />

most affected by economic challenges.<br />

Both Moser and Hall lament that <strong>the</strong> conversations around <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>’s<br />

homeless population (which Hall calls a “humanitarian crisis”) tend to get<br />

caught up in <strong>the</strong> debate about affordable housing. Moser hopes that by<br />

partnering with more rescue programs like Feeding <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>, <strong>the</strong>y’ll be able<br />

to demonstrate moral and financial value to policymakers when it comes to<br />

addressing homelessness.<br />

“There is a critical need for affordable housing and temporary shelter beds<br />

in our region. By increasing strategic partnerships through some of <strong>the</strong> rescue<br />

programs that Feeding <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> offers, significant savings have been realized.<br />

Yet, we believe <strong>the</strong>re is still much room to grow and savings to be realized,<br />

which is something we focus on daily,” says Moser.<br />

Like Moser, Hall is glad to have found a like-minded group to help tackle<br />

22 ediblesandiego.com<br />

SPECIAL ISSUE • NOVEMBER 2019 | edible SAN DIEGO 23


FRIENDS WITH BENEFITS |<br />

<strong>the</strong> most immediate needs <strong>San</strong> Diegans without housing face every day.<br />

“What I admire about Dan [Shea, on <strong>the</strong> board of directors of Lucky Duck<br />

Foundation] and <strong>the</strong> rest of <strong>the</strong> crew at Lucky Duck is <strong>the</strong> ability to not see<br />

it as a choice between building housing and providing shelter, but as a moral<br />

imperative that we do both,” says Hall.<br />

By joining up with Feeding <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>, Moser says that <strong>the</strong>y’ve been able<br />

to distribute over 1,500 community care kits so far, which are backpacks filled<br />

with “items such as hygiene kits, sweatshirts, sweatpants, socks, stocking caps,<br />

shower shoes, water and snacks, and o<strong>the</strong>r necessities.”<br />

Despite <strong>the</strong> progress <strong>the</strong>y’ve made toge<strong>the</strong>r, Hall admits it can seem like<br />

<strong>the</strong>y are up against overwhelming odds. With <strong>the</strong> help of Lucky Duck<br />

Foundation, he hopes to remove some of <strong>the</strong> stigma behind <strong>the</strong>se issues.<br />

“The reality is that <strong>the</strong>se people can be helped,” says Hall. “What I love<br />

about organizations like Lucky Duck Foundation is that <strong>the</strong>re’s an underlying<br />

respect for <strong>the</strong> inherent humanity of every human being, and that everybody is<br />

entitled to be treated with dignity and respect.” s<br />

LOCAL FISH FROM<br />

LOCAL FISHERMEN<br />

Fresh Local Seafood on<br />

<strong>the</strong> docks in Point Loma<br />

1403 Scott Street,<br />

<strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong><br />

619-222-8787<br />

www.mitchsseafood.com<br />

HOW CAN YOU HELP?<br />

DONATE MONEY<br />

DONATE TIME<br />

DONATE FOOD AND CLOTHING<br />

ATTEND FUNDRAISING EVENTS<br />

WRITE TO POLITICAL LEADERS<br />

BECOME ADVOCATES IN YOUR COMMUNITY<br />

FOLLOW LUCKY DUCK FOUNDATION AND<br />

FEEDING SAN DIEGO ON SOCIAL MEDIA AND<br />

SIGN UP FOR THEIR EMAIL NEWSLETTERS<br />

24 ediblesandiego.com<br />

SPECIAL ISSUE • NOVEMBER 2019 | edible SAN DIEGO 25


STAYCATION |<br />

| STAYCATION<br />

Island<br />

Escape<br />

STORY AND<br />

PHOTOGRAPHS<br />

BY OLIVIA HAYO<br />

T<br />

he bridge connecting <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> to Coronado is<br />

only two miles long, but once you’re on <strong>the</strong> pristine<br />

island it feels like you’ve traveled much fur<strong>the</strong>r. Travel a few<br />

miles down Orange Avenue to find <strong>the</strong> historic Hotel Del<br />

Coronado. The 131-year-old icon that began as a modern<br />

marvel of its time now lives on as a reminder of <strong>the</strong> past,<br />

but that’s not to say it isn’t thinking about <strong>the</strong> future.<br />

With enticing amenities, thoughtful dining additions, and<br />

property expansions in <strong>the</strong> works, <strong>the</strong>re will always be a<br />

reason to return to The Del when you want to get away.<br />

Make a Stay of It<br />

The bright sun, sand, and exterior of <strong>the</strong> hotel are starkly<br />

contrasted inside by <strong>the</strong> dimly lit chandelier and dark wood<br />

paneling of <strong>the</strong> lobby. Victorian details, like <strong>the</strong> gold-caged<br />

elevator, are irresistible, and it isn’t hard to imagine why<br />

royalty, celebrities, and locals alike have aspired to stay at<br />

<strong>the</strong> property for more than a century. While <strong>the</strong> rooms are<br />

updated, <strong>the</strong>y still embrace <strong>the</strong> hotel’s original character—<br />

and with more than 700 rooms on <strong>the</strong> property, each one<br />

has its own unique charm.<br />

Chill Out<br />

If you’re looking to be pampered,<br />

head to <strong>the</strong> Spa and Salon at The<br />

Del. Its infinity pool peering into<br />

<strong>the</strong> Pacific may be reason enough<br />

to book an appointment, but<br />

<strong>the</strong>re’s still more inside if you need<br />

convincing. Separate lounges for<br />

men and women each offer a hot<br />

tub, steamroom, showers, and<br />

lockers, making it <strong>the</strong> perfect home<br />

base for <strong>the</strong> day. Treat yourself<br />

to a nourishing wildflower facial<br />

with organic botanicals, like <strong>the</strong><br />

deeply aromatic Blueberry Detox<br />

Stimulation Masque. Looking for<br />

something even more chill? Try a<br />

CBD-infused massage, pedicure,<br />

or facial to take <strong>the</strong> edge off. Once<br />

you’re truly relaxed, hang by <strong>the</strong><br />

pool or wander to <strong>the</strong> beach.<br />

Find Beachside Bliss<br />

The Del’s beachside options make<br />

it an obvious choice for visitors<br />

and locals year-round. Lounge<br />

in style on a shaded daybed or<br />

rent sand chairs and umbrellas to<br />

spend your beach day closer to <strong>the</strong><br />

shoreline. You’ll find <strong>the</strong> Beach<br />

Shack a few steps away serving<br />

cocktails, beer, wine, and freshly<br />

made tacos. Why not embrace<br />

<strong>the</strong> island life and order a Double<br />

Sesh, a sweet-and-sour cocktail<br />

blended with ice and served in a<br />

fresh pineapple—perfect for two.<br />

Stroll a few steps more and you’ll<br />

find On <strong>the</strong> Rocks, The Del’s<br />

recently opened food truck and<br />

beverage trailer on <strong>the</strong> boardwalk.<br />

Choose walk-up or sit-down<br />

service and settle into a game of<br />

giant Jenga with a gourmet beach<br />

salad and side of Moroccan loaded<br />

fries.<br />

And Dinner with a View<br />

Serẽa is <strong>the</strong> property’s newest dining destination.<br />

Its white walls are softened with peach and blue<br />

accents that flow <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> indoor dining room<br />

to <strong>the</strong> patio. Soft booths, a fireplace, and muted<br />

lighting invite you to stay a while. Executive chef<br />

Jojo Ruiz, a 2019 James Beard Foundation Smart<br />

Catch Leader, created Serẽa's Mediterraneaninspired<br />

menu to highlight local ingredients.<br />

Sustainable seafood sourcing is a priority at<br />

Serẽa, with fresh catch <strong>from</strong> Tuna Harbor<br />

Dockside Market, Catalina Offshore Products,<br />

and Baja California’s Pacifico Aquaculture<br />

appearing on <strong>the</strong> menu. Plus, <strong>the</strong> restaurant<br />

recently earned its Surfrider Ocean Friendly<br />

Restaurant certification. Select a few starters to<br />

share like <strong>the</strong> refreshing local halibut ceviche<br />

with coconut, lime, and chile, and beef carpaccio<br />

with manchego cheese, watercress pesto, and 20-<br />

year aged balsamic. Then step inside to choose<br />

a fish <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> open seafood display before it’s<br />

wood-grilled and filleted tableside.<br />

This staycation is so dreamy, you'll be in danger<br />

of forgetting that <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> is across <strong>the</strong> bay.<br />

LACE UP YOUR SKATES<br />

Head to The Del’s beachfront<br />

when it’s transformed into<br />

an ice skating rink benefiting<br />

Make-A-Wish <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong><br />

<strong>from</strong> November 22, 2019<br />

through January 5, 2020.<br />

MORE TO LOOK<br />

FORWARD TO<br />

The Del is in <strong>the</strong> midst of a<br />

property-wide revitalization<br />

known as The Master Plan<br />

that will enhance and<br />

preserve its existing features<br />

while expanding its offerings.<br />

Look for 150 additional<br />

rooms, underground parking,<br />

a refreshed landscaped<br />

entry, and a state-of-<strong>the</strong>art<br />

conference room to be<br />

completed late 2021.<br />

26 ediblesandiego.com<br />

SPECIAL ISSUE • NOVEMBER 2019 | edible SAN DIEGO 27


PARTNER CONTENT |<br />

| PARTNER CONTENT<br />

NEIGHBORHOOD<br />

DINING GUIDE<br />

The Neighborhood Dining Guide celebrates<br />

locally owned restaurants passionate about<br />

local sourcing and <strong>the</strong> Ocean Friendly<br />

Restaurant (OFR) program created by<br />

Surfrider Foundation <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> County,<br />

which incentivizes and recognizes eateries<br />

across <strong>the</strong> country that uphold specific<br />

environmentally friendly practices. Enjoy a<br />

delicious meal and make sure to tell <strong>the</strong>m that<br />

<strong>Edible</strong> <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> sent you!<br />

NORTH COUNTY<br />

A.R. VALENTIEN<br />

11480 North Torrey Pines Rd.<br />

La Jolla • 858-453-4420<br />

lodgetorreypines.com/ar-valentien<br />

The Torrey Pines Lodge’s signature restaurant, A.R.<br />

Valentien, highlights regional <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> cuisine served in an<br />

elegant, timbered indoor-outdoor dining room overlooking<br />

<strong>the</strong> 18th hole of Torrey Pines Golf Course. Executive chef<br />

Jeff Jackson sources only <strong>the</strong> best local provisions, and <strong>the</strong><br />

menu changes frequently based on seasonal fare available.<br />

The restaurant takes its name <strong>from</strong> a talented early-<br />

20th-century California artist whose works are exhibited<br />

throughout <strong>the</strong> restaurant.<br />

ESCOGELATO<br />

122 South Kalmia St.<br />

Escondido • 760-745-6500<br />

escogelato.com<br />

Located in <strong>the</strong> heart of Escondido, EscoGelato is made<br />

fresh daily using <strong>the</strong> highest quality ingredients and<br />

fresh fruit sourced <strong>from</strong> local farmers. The result is a<br />

luscious, super-creamy gelato that’s full of flavor. You<br />

will taste <strong>the</strong> difference. In addition to <strong>the</strong> main event,<br />

enjoy a nice selection of paninis, soups, salads, coffee,<br />

and tea.<br />

MISSION BEACH<br />

OCEANA COASTAL<br />

KITCHEN<br />

3999 Mission Blvd.<br />

<strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> • 858-539-8635<br />

catamaranresort.com/dining-entertainment/oceana-san-diego-restaurant<br />

Oceana Coastal Kitchen features chef-driven California<br />

cuisine and a modern, ocean-inspired design. Oceana<br />

offers bay-front dining at an iconic Pacific Beach hideaway.<br />

Executive chef Steven Riemer’s playful interpretations of<br />

classic dishes highlight <strong>the</strong> purity and flavors of California<br />

local produce and a commitment to sustainable ingredients.<br />

A cold bar with sushi options, small bites, and main dishes<br />

includes <strong>the</strong> freshest seafood available <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> coast of Baja<br />

and <strong>the</strong> Pacific.<br />

SOULSHINE VEGAN CAFE<br />

3864 Mission Blvd.<br />

<strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> • 858-886-7252<br />

soulshinemb.com<br />

At Soulshine Vegan Cafè, we value <strong>the</strong> innate connection<br />

between our community and our earth. By choosing<br />

a plant based and organic menu, we support <strong>the</strong><br />

regeneration of marine life and restoration of our<br />

ecosystem. Stop by our location in <strong>the</strong> heart of Mission<br />

Beach and enjoy menu options highlighting locally<br />

sourced ingredients and healthy, feel-good fare. OFR<br />

POINT LOMA<br />

SOLARE<br />

2820 Roosevelt Rd.<br />

<strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> • 619-270-9670<br />

solarelounge.com<br />

Solare is an au<strong>the</strong>ntic Italian<br />

restaurant with a special focus on sou<strong>the</strong>rn Italy and Sicily<br />

featuring a menu made with fresh ingredients selected<br />

daily. Blending modern and traditional tastes, <strong>the</strong> results<br />

are light and healthy dishes brimming with natural flavors.<br />

Complement your meal with one of 2,000 bottles of wine<br />

<strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> cellar or 30 wines by <strong>the</strong> glass. Solare is committed<br />

to serving <strong>the</strong> cuisine of today, created with all <strong>the</strong> love<br />

and attention to detail <strong>from</strong> generations past.<br />

MITCH’S SEAFOOD<br />

1403 Scott St.<br />

<strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> • 619-222-8787<br />

mitchsseafood.com<br />

Established in 2008 by three<br />

families with a long history of<br />

fishing in <strong>the</strong> Point Loma area of <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>, Mitch’s<br />

Seafood specializes in fresh seafood <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> waters off <strong>San</strong><br />

<strong>Diego</strong>. Located on <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>’s working waterfront with a<br />

view of <strong>the</strong> fishing fleet, <strong>the</strong> restaurant focuses on simply<br />

prepared, California-style seafood and offers a selection<br />

of craft beer and wine sourced <strong>from</strong> local <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> and<br />

California purveyors.<br />

CENTRAL<br />

WILD THYME CATERING<br />

7163 Construction Ct. Suite B<br />

<strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> • 858-527-0226<br />

<strong>the</strong>wildthymecompany.com<br />

With an innovative and fresh approach<br />

to catering, The Wild Thyme Company raises<br />

<strong>the</strong> bar for off-premise catering in <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>. They have<br />

an extensive and diverse epicurean background within<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir culinary management team and appreciate any opportunity<br />

to research and prepare various types of cuisine<br />

across <strong>the</strong> board. The Wild Thyme Company was founded<br />

on Mediterranean and Coastal California fare, giving <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

menus a fresh, farm-to-table feel.<br />

NORTH PARK / KENSINGTON<br />

TIGER!TIGER! TAVERN<br />

3025 El Cajon Blvd.<br />

<strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> • 619-487-0401<br />

tigertigertavern.blogspot.com<br />

The atmosphere at Tiger!Tiger! is<br />

casual and cool with an urban vibe.<br />

From its signature wood-fired oven<br />

in <strong>the</strong> dining room comes roasted<br />

oysters and well-made sandwiches.<br />

The seating is communal and <strong>the</strong> beer list is lengthy. A<br />

chalkboard features <strong>the</strong> wide variety of brews, complete<br />

with craft descriptions and alcohol content. The 60-ounce<br />

pitcher for $16 is a major deal. OFR<br />

BLIND LADY ALE<br />

HOUSE<br />

3416 Adams Ave.<br />

<strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> • 619-255-2491<br />

blindlady.blogspot.com<br />

Nothing goes toge<strong>the</strong>r better than<br />

a pint and a slice. Blind Lady<br />

excels at both. The pizza offerings<br />

range <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> classic margherita<br />

to creative options like <strong>the</strong> house chorizo with poblano<br />

chiles, fontina, epazote, and cotija. While <strong>the</strong> pizza is <strong>the</strong><br />

headliner, expect a variety of brewpub snacks like Belgian<br />

frites and spicy beer nuts. OFR<br />

POINTS EAST<br />

GARDEN KITCHEN<br />

4204 Rolando Blvd.<br />

<strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> • 619-431-5755<br />

gardenkitchensd.com<br />

Located in <strong>the</strong> <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong><br />

neighborhood of Rolando, this<br />

healthy farm-to-table restaurant<br />

satisfies all tastes, <strong>from</strong> vegan to vegetarian to meat<br />

lovers. All meals are served outside on a lovely covered<br />

patio with a casual, dog-friendly atmosphere. The menu<br />

changes regularly because each day it’s crafted <strong>from</strong><br />

scratch using local, farm-fresh ingredients. Their cooking<br />

style reflects a love of all flavors, colors, cuisines, and<br />

cultures.<br />

TECATE, MEXICO<br />

LA COCINA QUE CANTA<br />

Cooking School at Rancho La Puerta<br />

rancholapuerta.com/<strong>the</strong>-ranch/la-cocina-que-canta<br />

Set in <strong>the</strong> heart of Rancho La Puerta’s six-acre farm, La<br />

Cocina Que Canta (The Kitchen That Sings) celebrates<br />

<strong>the</strong> magical results of cooking with just-picked organic<br />

ingredients. The colors, aromas, and tastes that emanate<br />

<strong>from</strong> La Cocina are nothing short of amazing. Ranch<br />

guests can join three cooking classes a week hosted by<br />

internationally renowned guest chefs and cookbook<br />

authors. Check Rancho La Puerta’s events calendar for<br />

details.<br />

PHOTO COURTESY SOULSHINE VEGAN CAFE<br />

MADE IN<br />

SAN DIEGO<br />

This guide features diverse <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> County<br />

companies that produce or sell specialty<br />

foods, wellness products, and lifestyle services<br />

with artisanal quality, integrity, creativity, and<br />

innovation. Look for discount codes offered<br />

exclusively for <strong>Edible</strong> <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> readers and<br />

support <strong>the</strong>se passionate local business owners<br />

and makers.<br />

BOOTSTRAP KOMBUCHA<br />

4085 Pacific Hwy. #105B<br />

<strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> • 858-683-3490<br />

bootstrapkombucha.com<br />

Bootstrap Kombucha was founded in <strong>the</strong><br />

Point Loma area in 2015 to provide <strong>the</strong> city<br />

of <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> with an au<strong>the</strong>ntic craft kombucha<br />

brewed using traditional methods. No<br />

syrups, no artificial flavors, no added sugars, no shortcuts….Bootstrap<br />

Kombucha uses only high quality real organic ingredients to craft a truly<br />

superior product that is perfectly balanced, crisp, clean, and refreshing.<br />

CHARLIE AND ECHO<br />

8680 Miralani Dr. #113<br />

<strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> • 877-592-9095<br />

charlieandecho.com<br />

We’re an urban winery in <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> producing creative, craft wine –<br />

mostly sparkling—<strong>from</strong> local vineyards. We use natural fermentation<br />

and minimal intervention. We’re small, independent, innovative, and care<br />

about everything we make.<br />

CHEF JENN COOKS<br />

jenn@chefjenncooks.com<br />

858-212-9054<br />

chefjenncooks.com<br />

Chef Jenn, owner and executive<br />

chef of Chef Jenn Cooks is an<br />

engaging speaker and a talented personal chef. She crafts dinner parties,<br />

retreats and cooking classes using ingredients <strong>from</strong> local farms and<br />

businesses. Chef Jenn specializes in small- and medium-sized parties,<br />

creating delicious menus for any dietary needs.<br />

CLAY AND CRAFT<br />

810 N. Coast Hwy. 101<br />

Encinitas<br />

clayandcraft.com<br />

CLAY + CRAFT is on a mission to<br />

celebrate <strong>the</strong> handmade, encourage<br />

creativity, and champion modern<br />

artisan culture. Visit <strong>the</strong> part studio / part store to shop <strong>the</strong> collection of<br />

modern ceramics, handcrafted by owner Nicole Novena. Or, enjoy a dose<br />

of creative self care. Take a turn at <strong>the</strong> wheel and play with clay.<br />

COCONUT CULTURE<br />

getcoconutculture.com<br />

Coconut Culture yogurt is a plant-based<br />

yogurt that is good for your gut and good<br />

for your soul. That’s because we use<br />

no dairy, no gums, no added sugars, no<br />

preservatives, nothing artificial! Instead<br />

you’ll get tummy-friendly probiotics,<br />

healthy fats <strong>from</strong> coconuts, and pure<br />

creamy deliciousness.<br />

CORDIAL ORGANICS<br />

hello@cordialorganics.com<br />

cordialorganics.com<br />

We are a <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> company that<br />

makes small-batch, handcrafted beauty and wellness products infused<br />

with <strong>the</strong> power of CBD. <strong>Edible</strong> readers will especially enjoy our awardwinning<br />

bitters. Receive 15% off with <strong>the</strong> coupon code EDIBLE15 at<br />

checkout and feel <strong>the</strong> difference CBD can make in your life.<br />

DEXTER’S DELI<br />

2508 El Camino Real #B-2<br />

Carlsbad • 760-720-7507<br />

dextersdeli.com<br />

Neighborhood Natural pet store. Helping pet parents think outside <strong>the</strong><br />

bag with <strong>the</strong> best in local, natural, high-quality foods, treats, toys and<br />

supplements for both dogs + cats. For more than 20 years, we have<br />

helped make little miracles happen by helping pets thrive.<br />

DRIANA FOODS<br />

drianafoods.com<br />

Inspired by <strong>the</strong> flavors of Spain, Driana Foods<br />

created a cooking paste called Mojos, or<br />

“sofrito,” that can be used to add depth and<br />

flavor to your cooking. It's vegan, gluten-free,<br />

and handcrafted with vegetables <strong>from</strong> local<br />

farmers. Use in soups and stews, or toss on roasted veggies, pastas,<br />

and more. Let our cooking pastes be your paintbrushes to create your<br />

own unique dishes and ease your daily cooking. To learn more and<br />

get delicious recipes, visit our website and follow us on Instagram @<br />

drianafoods and on Facebook @drianafoods.<br />

GYPSY CRUMBS<br />

951-970-0448<br />

gypsycrumbs.com<br />

@gypsycrumbs<br />

A handcrafted line of raw, plant-based<br />

vegan desserts that are free of gluten,<br />

dairy, soy, and refined sugars. We’re<br />

committed to using ingredients that<br />

are organic, nutrient dense, and locally sourced that nourish and fuel<br />

our bodies. Focusing on delicious and wholesome goodness, we’re on<br />

a mission to change <strong>the</strong> way people think about (and crave) healthy<br />

desserts.<br />

KASSI<br />

GRUNDER<br />

JEWELRY<br />

kassigrunder.com<br />

High vibration jewelry to<br />

align you with your highest<br />

purpose. Handmade with<br />

intention for courageous seekers, visionaries, and bringers of light. What’s<br />

to love: There’s something for every jewelry lover, ranging <strong>from</strong> minimalist<br />

and super dainty to bold and dramatic. Free domestic shipping with<br />

code EDIBLE.<br />

KEYS CREEK<br />

LAVENDER FARM<br />

kclfarm.com<br />

Keys Creek Lavender Farm<br />

is <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>'s only USDA<br />

certified organic lavender farm. Nestled in <strong>the</strong> foothills of a beautiful<br />

serene valley, we are 40 minutes <strong>from</strong> downtown <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>. Enjoy a<br />

countryside getaway in our Airbnb or host your next event here. Our<br />

lavender products are handcrafted with organic essential oil and made<br />

here at <strong>the</strong> farm.<br />

LĒNUS HANDCRAFTED<br />

619-200-4266<br />

shoplenus.com<br />

LĒNUS Handcrafted is a local skincare<br />

company where original formulas are<br />

blended by hand in fresh batches. It was<br />

established in 2014 in <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>, by a former model, designer, and mom<br />

with a lifelong passion for natural living. This exclusive botanical skincare<br />

is available online directly <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> maker.<br />

NORTH COUNTY OLIVE<br />

OILS<br />

155 Quail Gardens Dr.<br />

Encinitas • 760-518-5161<br />

northcountyoliveoil.com<br />

Offering 100% California-grown extra-virgin<br />

olive oils, fresh balsamic vinegar, and local<br />

artisan goods. Visit <strong>the</strong> storefront for a<br />

complimentary tasting, create a holiday gift set, or an olive oil class inside<br />

Sunshine Gardens, Encinitas. Find us at <strong>the</strong> Leucadia and Rancho <strong>San</strong>ta<br />

Fe farmers' markets.<br />

THE POPULIST<br />

760-707-7580<br />

The Populist handcrafts delicious vegan<br />

popsicles <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> best organic produce in<br />

<strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>. Grab one at <strong>the</strong> Leucadia farmers'<br />

market or call us to order for your next event!<br />

Follow us on Instagram @populistpops.<br />

THE PRIMITIVE WAFFLE<br />

760-587-7967<br />

<strong>the</strong>primitivewaffle.com<br />

The Primitive Waffle, Inc. specializes in grain-free<br />

and vegan wholefood waffles that are so versatile,<br />

you can eat <strong>the</strong>m at every meal. You will enjoy our<br />

amazingly delicious waffles as if you have made <strong>the</strong>m right in your own<br />

home. Our waffles are YOUR waffles. Enjoy!<br />

QUANTUM MICROGREENS<br />

farmer@quantummicrogreens.com<br />

619-488-2167<br />

quantummicrogreens.com<br />

We grow our Microgreens outside with help <strong>from</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> sun, in a soil mix…naturally. The<br />

soil mix is coconut coir with seaweed extract and<br />

perlite or vermiculite. We specialize in living trays, this way you have a<br />

supreme product with ideal nutrition, optimum flavor, and longer lasting<br />

freshness.<br />

SANA’S KITCHEN<br />

619-880-7262 • sanaskitchen.com<br />

At <strong>San</strong>a’s Kitchen our primary goal is to have<br />

100% plant-based, organic, kosher, nutritious<br />

products with minimal or no processing, no<br />

preservatives, chemicals, or additives of any kind.<br />

Additionally, in our fast-paced society we need<br />

foods that quickly and simply provide <strong>the</strong> nutrients we deserve.<br />

SUGA<br />

Suga.yoga<br />

Encinitas company Suga<br />

makes <strong>the</strong> world’s first<br />

recycled yoga mat. But get<br />

this—it’s made entirely out of<br />

recycled wetsuits. Suga reengineered <strong>the</strong> yoga mat to grip better and<br />

perform better, while solving a pressing environmental problem—how to<br />

recycle non-biodegradable neoprene surfing wetsuits.<br />

THE LOOSE LEAF<br />

looseleafblends.com<br />

@TheLooseLeafTea<br />

Herbal Blends | Community Driven ~<br />

Always using <strong>the</strong> finest organic, fair-trade<br />

certified ingredients, we know exactly<br />

what goes into our blends—and you know exactly what goes into your<br />

body. Sourcing <strong>the</strong> best ingredients, empowering our customer through<br />

knowledge, and cultivating a community is <strong>the</strong> blend that makes us The<br />

Loose Leaf.<br />

TREEHOUSE KITCHEN<br />

treehousekitchen.com<br />

Come enjoy <strong>the</strong> Treehouse Kitchen<br />

Creative Cooking experience! Join us in<br />

our unique and awe-inspiring modernindustrial<br />

kitchen and workspace for<br />

everything <strong>from</strong> World Cuisine Cooking Workshops to life-balancing yoga<br />

classes. Check out our schedule on our website and sign up for a class<br />

today. Use promo code ESD for 20% off!<br />

28 ediblesandiego.com<br />

SPECIAL ISSUE • NOVEMBER 2019 | edible SAN DIEGO 29


Monday<br />

Escondido—Welk Resort √†<br />

8860 Lawrence Welk Dr.<br />

3–7pm, year-round<br />

760-651-3630<br />

Tuesday<br />

Coronado √<br />

1st St. & B Ave., Ferry<br />

Landing<br />

2:30–6pm<br />

760-741-3763<br />

Escondido √*<br />

262 <strong>East</strong> Grand Ave.<br />

2:30–7pm (2:30–6pm Oct to<br />

May)<br />

760-480-4101<br />

Mira Mesa √*<br />

10510 Reagan Rd.<br />

2:30–7pm (3–6pm fall-winter)<br />

858-272-7054<br />

Otay Ranch—Chula Vista √<br />

2015 Birch Rd. and <strong>East</strong>lake<br />

Blvd.<br />

4–8pm<br />

619-279-0032<br />

Pacific Beach Tuesday à<br />

Bayard & Garnet<br />

2–7pm<br />

619-233-3901<br />

People’s Produce Night<br />

Market √<br />

5010 Market St.<br />

5–8pm<br />

619-813-9148<br />

<strong>San</strong> Marcos NEW! √<br />

1035 La Bonita Dr.<br />

3–7pm<br />

858-272-7054<br />

UCSD Town Square √<br />

UCSD Campus, Town Square<br />

10am–2pm, Sept to June<br />

858-534-4248<br />

Vail Headquarters √*<br />

32115 Temecula Pkwy.<br />

9am–1pm<br />

760-728-7343<br />

Wednesday<br />

Little Italy Wednesday √*†<br />

501 W. Date St.<br />

9am–1pm<br />

619-233-3901<br />

Ocean Beach √<br />

4900 block of Newport Ave.<br />

4–8pm<br />

619-279-0032<br />

<strong>San</strong>tee *†<br />

Carlton Hills Blvd. & Mast Blvd.<br />

3–7pm (2:30–6:30pm winter)<br />

619-449-8427<br />

State Street in Carlsbad Village √<br />

State St. & Carlsbad Village Dr.<br />

3–7pm (3–6pm fall-winter)<br />

858-272-7054<br />

Temecula—Promenade √*<br />

40820 Winchester Rd. by Macy’s<br />

9am–1pm<br />

760-728-7343<br />

Thursday<br />

Lemon Grove √*<br />

2885 Lemon Grove Ave.<br />

3–7pm<br />

619-813-9148<br />

Linda Vista √*†<br />

6939 Linda Vista Rd.<br />

3–7pm (2–6pm winter)<br />

760-504-4363<br />

North Park Thursday √*†<br />

2900 North Park Way<br />

3–7:30pm<br />

619-550-7180<br />

Oceanside Morning √*<br />

Pier View Way & Coast Hwy. 101<br />

9am–1pm<br />

760-791-3241<br />

Rancho Bernardo<br />

16535 Via Esprillo<br />

11am–1:30pm<br />

619-279-0032<br />

Friday<br />

Borrego Springs √<br />

700 Palm Canyon Dr.<br />

7am–noon, Oct to Apr<br />

760-767-5555<br />

Horton Plaza Lunch Market<br />

225 Broadway Circle<br />

11am–2pm<br />

619-795-3363<br />

Imperial Beach √*†<br />

10 Evergreen Ave.<br />

2–7pm (2–6pm winter)<br />

info@imperialbeachfarmersmarket.<br />

org<br />

La Mesa Village √*<br />

La Mesa Blvd. btwn Palm & 4th St.<br />

3–7pm, year-round<br />

619-795-3363<br />

LOCAL<br />

MARKETS<br />

Bernardo Winery √<br />

13330 Paseo del Verano Norte<br />

9am–1pm<br />

760-500-1709<br />

Saturday<br />

City Heights √*†!<br />

Wightman St. btwn Fairmount &<br />

43rd St.<br />

9am–1pm<br />

760-504-4363<br />

Del Mar √<br />

1050 Camino Del Mar<br />

1–4pm<br />

858-465-0013<br />

Little Italy Mercato à<br />

600 W. Date St.<br />

8am–2pm<br />

619-233-3901<br />

Pacific Beach √<br />

4150 Mission Blvd.<br />

8am–noon<br />

760-741-3763<br />

Poway √*<br />

14134 Midland Rd.<br />

8am–1pm<br />

619-249-9395<br />

Rancho Penasquitos<br />

9400 Fairgrove Ln.<br />

9am–1pm<br />

858-484-8788<br />

Temecula—Old Town √*<br />

Sixth & Front St.<br />

Old Town<br />

8am–12:30pm<br />

760-728-7343<br />

Tuna Harbor Dockside Market<br />

879 West Harbor Dr.<br />

Port of <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong><br />

8am–1:00pm<br />

Vista √*†<br />

325 Melrose Dr.<br />

8am–12pm<br />

760-945-7425<br />

Sunday<br />

Hillcrest √*<br />

3960 Normal & Lincoln Sts.<br />

9am–2pm<br />

619-237-1632<br />

La Jolla Open Aire √<br />

Girard Ave. & Genter<br />

9am–1:00pm<br />

858-454-1699<br />

Leucadia √*<br />

185 Union St. & Vulcan St.<br />

10am–2pm<br />

858-272-7054<br />

Murrieta √*<br />

Village Walk Plaza<br />

I-15, exit west on Calif. Oaks &<br />

Kalmia<br />

9am–1pm<br />

760-728-7343<br />

North <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> / Sikes Adobe<br />

à<br />

12655 Sunset Dr., Escondido<br />

10:30am–3:30pm<br />

858-735-5311<br />

Rancho <strong>San</strong>ta Fe Del Rayo<br />

Village √<br />

16077 <strong>San</strong> Dieguito Rd.<br />

9:30am–2pm<br />

619-743-4263<br />

<strong>San</strong>ta Ysabel √<br />

21887 Washington St.<br />

Noon–4pm<br />

760-782-9202<br />

Solana Beach √<br />

410 South Cedros Ave.<br />

Noon–4pm<br />

858-755-0444<br />

* Market vendors accept WIC<br />

(Women, Infants, Children)<br />

Farmers’ Market checks.<br />

† Market vendors accept EBT<br />

(Electronic Benefit Transfer).<br />

! Market vendors accept WIC Fruit<br />

and Vegetable checks.<br />

√ Indicates markets certified<br />

by <strong>the</strong> <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> County<br />

Agriculture Commissioner,<br />

ensuring that <strong>the</strong> produce is<br />

grown by <strong>the</strong> seller or ano<strong>the</strong>r<br />

certified farmer in California,<br />

and meets all state quality<br />

standards. Temecula markets<br />

and <strong>the</strong> Murrieta market are<br />

certified by <strong>the</strong> Riverside County<br />

Agricultural Commissioner.<br />

Visit ediblesandiego.com and click<br />

on “Resources” for more complete<br />

information and links to market<br />

websites.<br />

NOREEN KOMPANIK, CODY SMALL<br />

Check This Out<br />

BY NOREEN KOMPANIK<br />

EXPLORING SAN DIEGO’S<br />

CHINESE HISTORICAL MUSEUM<br />

From railroad building and gold<br />

mining to dominating <strong>the</strong> laundry<br />

industry, <strong>the</strong> Chinese community played<br />

a tremendous role in <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>’s storied<br />

past.<br />

The <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> Chinese Historical Museum,<br />

located in <strong>the</strong> heart of <strong>the</strong> Gaslamp Quarter,<br />

captures <strong>the</strong> essence of <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>’s fascinating<br />

Chinese history. Its mission to collect,<br />

preserve, and display documents, artifacts,<br />

and photographs relevant to <strong>the</strong> Chinese<br />

and Chinese-American experience is well<br />

represented by its impressive exhibits. Displays<br />

include historical letters and photographs,<br />

archeological treasures of Old Chinatown,<br />

and scale models depicting <strong>the</strong> area’s heyday.<br />

Traditional Chinese carts and magnificent<br />

furnishings complement <strong>the</strong> cultural content.<br />

Relax in an impressive outdoor garden with<br />

waterfalls, and a meandering koi pond pays<br />

homage to <strong>the</strong> serenity and harmony of <strong>the</strong><br />

Chinese garden.<br />

The colorful “DRAGON”exhibition<br />

currently on display until <strong>the</strong> Chinese New<br />

Year explores <strong>the</strong> symbolism behind <strong>the</strong><br />

Chinese dragon. A myriad of historical artifacts<br />

celebrate <strong>the</strong> nobility, power, strength, and<br />

protection of this revered mythical creature.<br />

NOVEMBER<br />

<strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> Beer Week<br />

returns November 1–10 with<br />

hundreds of happenings<br />

honoring <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> craft<br />

beer. Highlights include <strong>the</strong><br />

Guild Fest on November 2<br />

and <strong>the</strong> Beer Garden at The<br />

Lodge at Torrey Pines on<br />

November 10.<br />

» sdbw.sdbeer.com<br />

Enjoy traditional, gourmet,<br />

and vegetarian tamales<br />

at <strong>the</strong> Escondido Tamale<br />

Festival on November 2 in<br />

Grape Day Park.<br />

» escondidotamalefestival.org<br />

The 20th annual <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong><br />

Asian Film Festival takes<br />

place November 7-16. Enjoy<br />

170 films <strong>from</strong> 29 countries<br />

in 40 languages across <strong>the</strong><br />

county.<br />

» sdaff.org/2019<br />

The <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> Bay Wine<br />

& Food Festival returns<br />

November 10–17 with dozens<br />

of exciting events, including<br />

a culinary expedition to<br />

Baja hosted by chef Javier<br />

Plascencia on November 13<br />

and <strong>the</strong> Grand Tasting on <strong>the</strong><br />

Embarcadero on November<br />

16.<br />

» sandiegowineclassic.com<br />

Slurp steaming bowls<br />

of ramen to your heart’s<br />

content at <strong>the</strong> <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong><br />

Ramen Festival on<br />

November 14 at <strong>the</strong> Port<br />

Pavilion on <strong>the</strong> Broadway<br />

Pier.<br />

» sdramenfest.com<br />

Celebrate cycling and craft<br />

beer with a 15- or 30-mile<br />

bike ride complete with<br />

refreshments at Bikes and<br />

Beers on November 16.<br />

» sdbikecoalition.org<br />

Local craft distilleries will<br />

pour samples and shake up<br />

cocktails at <strong>the</strong> happening<br />

Distillers Guild Fest,<br />

November 16 at Liberty<br />

| LOCAL ATTRACTIONS<br />

In Season<br />

BY CHRISTINE DIONESE<br />

Originally hailing <strong>from</strong> Asia,<br />

Fuyu persimmons are in season and<br />

ripen in <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> <strong>from</strong> September<br />

to December. Sink your teeth into<br />

<strong>the</strong> sunburst-colored skin to reach a<br />

complex flavor reminiscent of pear,<br />

stone fruit, cinnamon, and toasted<br />

coconut sugar. You’ll find fans of <strong>the</strong> fruit savoring Fuyus straight out of hand; unlike o<strong>the</strong>r persimmon<br />

varieties, this non-astringent fruit is best to enjoy when it’s still firm. Get creative by slicing it into a mixed<br />

green salad with goat cheese and pine nuts or sear it on <strong>the</strong> grill before dicing into a festive salsa. If you’re<br />

so inclined, Fuyus mix up well in cocktails and mocktails too. Have a vegan in your life who loves sweets?<br />

The overripe Fuyu’s gelatinous center is perfect blended with chia seeds for a vegan pudding.<br />

Plus, <strong>the</strong> Fuyu is as healthy as it is tasty: Plant phenols, flavonoids, antioxidants, and a significant fiber<br />

content make <strong>the</strong> persimmon wonderful heart-healthy and cancer-preventive food <strong>the</strong>rapy.<br />

Events<br />

Station. The artisanal<br />

tasting event also features<br />

appetizers <strong>from</strong> <strong>San</strong><br />

<strong>Diego</strong> restaurants and a live<br />

jazz ensemble.<br />

» sddistillersguildfest.org<br />

DECEMBER<br />

December Nights at Balboa<br />

Park brings festive holiday<br />

cheer, with music and dance<br />

performances, international<br />

eats, and free admission<br />

to select museums on<br />

December 6 and 7.<br />

» sandiego.gov/decembernights<br />

Get into <strong>the</strong> holiday spirit<br />

with cocktail samples and<br />

bites <strong>from</strong> 20 restaurants at<br />

Toast of <strong>the</strong> Gaslamp on<br />

December 14.<br />

» toastofgaslamp.com<br />

Find more events online at ediblesandiego.com/event-list.<br />

30 ediblesandiego.com<br />

SPECIAL ISSUE • NOVEMBER 2019 | edible SAN DIEGO 31


PREP |<br />

Bibingka<br />

Ube<br />

BY NINO CAMILO<br />

T<br />

he union of sweet rice and<br />

coconut milk in almost<br />

any form is my favorite. This<br />

Filipino dessert is one my<br />

family always makes for garage<br />

parties and holidays. My mom,<br />

known by everyone as Aunty<br />

Gles, is <strong>the</strong> best home chef I<br />

know, and this is her version<br />

with a hint of ube (purple<br />

sweet potato) added for color<br />

and flavor.<br />

Bibingka Ube<br />

SERVES 8–10<br />

Cooking spray<br />

1 banana leaf, washed and dried<br />

1 cup glutinous rice flour<br />

1 cup sugar<br />

2 ½ teaspoons baking powder<br />

¹⁄ 8 teaspoon salt<br />

1 cup coconut milk<br />

¼ cup whole milk<br />

3 tablespoons unsalted butter,<br />

melted<br />

3 large eggs<br />

¹⁄ ³ cup ube halaya (ube jam—can be<br />

found at Filipino markets such as<br />

Seafood City)<br />

3 tablespoons condensed milk<br />

Preheat oven to 350°. Grease a<br />

9-inch baking pan with cooking<br />

spray and line with banana leaf. Trim<br />

<strong>the</strong> edges of <strong>the</strong> leaf so that it hangs<br />

over <strong>the</strong> pan by only an inch or 2,<br />

<strong>the</strong>n coat <strong>the</strong> leaf with more spray.<br />

In a large bowl, whisk toge<strong>the</strong>r <strong>the</strong><br />

rice flour, sugar, baking powder, and<br />

salt.<br />

In a medium bowl, beat toge<strong>the</strong>r <strong>the</strong><br />

coconut milk, whole milk, butter, and<br />

eggs until well combined.<br />

Slowly mix <strong>the</strong> wet ingredients into<br />

<strong>the</strong> dry ingredients, making sure <strong>the</strong>y<br />

are well incorporated.<br />

Pour batter into prepared pan. Drop<br />

ube halaya by <strong>the</strong> teaspoonful onto<br />

<strong>the</strong> batter and <strong>the</strong>n swirl with a<br />

butter knife, being careful not to rip<br />

<strong>the</strong> leaf on <strong>the</strong> bottom.<br />

Bake until a toothpick inserted into<br />

<strong>the</strong> center comes out clean, 50 to<br />

60 minutes. Let rest for about 5<br />

minutes before brushing <strong>the</strong> top<br />

with condensed milk.<br />

Cut into slices and serve warm or at<br />

room temperature.<br />

Visit 2020 Micro<br />

Roaster of <strong>the</strong> Year,<br />

Mostra Coffee, in<br />

Carmel Mountain<br />

and try <strong>the</strong> bibingka<br />

crème brûlée latte<br />

made with coconutinfused<br />

milk and a<br />

torched coconutsugar<br />

topping.<br />

JAMES TRAN


A family owned and operated fresh<br />

produce supplier, who continues to be<br />

a leader in service, product quality<br />

and technology.<br />

Take a tour<br />

7 Days A Week<br />

8 am to 5 pm<br />

https://sprod.co/tour<br />

4 ediblesandiego.com

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