Eatdrink #80 November/December 2019 - The Holiday Issue
The LOCAL food and drink magazine serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario since 2007
The LOCAL food and drink magazine serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario since 2007
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Issue #80 | The Holiday Issue | November/December 2019
eatdrink
The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine
Gift
OUR ANNUAL
Guide
page 7
Amazing
GRACE
Conscious Cuisine
in Downtown London
FEATURING
Small Town Treasures
Craft Beers Worth a Road Trip
Set for the Holidays
New Recipes from Anna Olsen
Supercalifragilisticexpialidocious!
Mary Poppins at The Grand
Serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario since 2007
www.eatdrink.ca
THE CHRISTMAS TRAIL
NOVEMBER 1 - DECEMBER 20
Capture þe spirit of giving and þe joy of checking
off þat list. We’ve made it easy to kick off your
holiday shopping wiþ The Christmas Trail – six
gifts for just $30 plus HST.
visitstratford.ca
You can purchase your trail at Stratford Tourism,
47 Downie Street; in St. Marys at Village Craft and
Candle; in Shakespeare at The British Touch.
eatdrink
The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine
eatdrinkmagazine
@eatdrinkmag
eatdrinkmag
eatdrink.ca
Think Global. Read Local.
Publisher
Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca
Managing Editor Cecilia Buy – cbuy@eatdrink.ca
Food Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca
Copy Editor Kym Wolfe
Social Media Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca
Advertising Sales Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca
Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca
Stacey McDonald – stacey@eatdrink.ca
Terry-Lynn “TL” Sim – TL@eatdrink.ca
Finances
Ann Cormier – finance@eatdrink.ca
Graphics
Chris McDonell, Cecilia Buy
Writers
Jane Antoniak, Darin Cook,
Mark Kearney, Gary Killops,
Bryan Lavery, George Macke,
Tracy Turlin
Photographers Steve Grimes, Alieska Robles
Telephone & Fax 519-434-8349
Mailing Address 525 Huron Street, London ON N5Y 4J6
Website
City Media, Cecilia Buy
Social Media Mind Your Own Business
Printing
Sportswood Printing
OUR COVER
London’s new restaurant
Grace opened earlier this
year in Downtown London.
Read Bryan Lavery’s
inspiring story on page 16.
© 2019 Eatdrink Inc. and the writers.
All rights reserved.
Reproduction or duplication of any material published in Eatdrink
or on Eatdrink.ca is strictly prohibited without the written permission
of the Publisher. Eatdrink has a printed circulation of 20,000
issues published six times annually in each of two markets, for a total
of 240,000 copies in print. The views or opinions expressed in the
information, content and/or advertisements published in Eatdrink
or online are solely those of the author(s) and do not necessarily
represent those of the Publisher. The Publisher welcomes submissions
but accepts no responsibility for unsolicited material.
Serving up
Great
partnerships
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Let us help with your next project...
519.866.5558 | ben@sportswood.on.ca
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Contents
Issue #80 | November/December 2019
The Holiday Issue
Publisher’s Notes
Eatdrink and Be Very Merry
Holiday Issue Highlights
By CHRIS McDONELL
6
Culinary Retail
Our Annual Holiday Gift Guide
Ideas from the Experts
Compiled by The Editors
7
Restaurants
Amazing Grace
Conscious Canadian Cuisine
By BRYAN LAVERY
16
Gift
Guide
OUR ANNUAL
7
53
The BUZZ
Culinary Community Notes
New and Notable
41
Theatre
Supercalifragilistic!
Mary Poppins at the Grand Theatre
By JANE ANTONIAK
53
Books
A Gourmet Life
Save Me the Plums
By Ruth Reichl
Review by DARIN COOK
56
Road Trips
A Southwest Ontario Journey
Our Local Flavour Guide Expansion
By CHRIS McDONELL
22
Beer
Small Town Treasures
12 Small Craft Breweries
Worth a Road Trip
By GEORGE MACKE
34
16
56
Recipes
Set for the Holidays
with Anna Olsen
by Anna Olson
Review & Recipe Selections
by TRACY TURLIN
58
The Lighter Side
A Child’s Christmas
By MARK KEARNEY
62
Wine
VQA Wines
Embracing the Destination
By GARY KILLOPS
38
38
58
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
November/December 2019 | 5
Book Now for Our
Christmas Day
Buffet!
Seatings at 11am, 2pm & 5pm
JOIN US
For Our Famous All-You-Can-Eat
Dickens Lunch Buffet
November 25 to December 20
Monday to Friday 11:30am to 2pm
Call for reservations
519-430-6414
And ask about our RESERVE A BIRD
Take Out Turkey Dinner for up to 20 People!
/Blakes2ndFloor
¦
6 | November/December 2019
Publisher’s Notes
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
Eatdrink and Be Very Merry
Holiday Issue Highlights
By CHRIS McDONELL
I
well remember a more youthful and
innocent excitement about the holiday
season, thumbing through the Sears
Christmas catalogue for inspiration and
details on the latest toys and games. When
did the emphasis change from “getting” to
“giving”? No doubt that was a process that
unfolded over time, but that brought its own
joys and excited feelings of anticipation.
Instead of a list with just my name on it,
the task was to figure out the best idea for
Mom, Dad, and six siblings. It was a good
day indeed when each was taken care of
and stroked off the list. Even better was
the moment of placing them, carefully
gift-wrapped (maybe in a box to
disguise any hint of the contents),
under the family Christmas tree.
There is a similar feeling putting
out the Eatdrink Holiday Issue.
We’ve been thinking about this
for awhile. This is an important
event on our calendar, and that
really needs no explanation.
Our advertisers are keen to get their message
out, and readers are keen to hear it. For many
businesses, this is the most critical time
of year for revenue generation. For many
consumers, there is a presumption that they
will be spending more than usual. While that
is undoubtedly a stress for some, we hope that
expectation comes with an understanding
that this can be — should be — a lifeaffirming
activity that enhances warm
feelings of family and community. We want
to be making wise choices, mixed with letting
loose with silly fun or indulgences that bring
extra joy to life. Being a bridge between our
advertisers and our readers is the rationale for
the business side of our magazine’s existence.
Doing that with integrity, creativity, and
gratitude is what makes this work satisfying.
I always enjoy assembling our annual
gift guide. What an eclectic collection of
ideas! There is literally something there for
everyone, but dare I say that what I love most
about this is the spur this gives me to be
creative in my gift giving? Thank you to all of
our contributors.
London’s new restaurant Grace opened
earlier this year amidst extensive construction
in Downtown London. Executive Chef Angela
Murphy and her talented team have handled
this with ... you know ... grace. In fact,
they’re overcoming more than roadwork
barriers and inconveniences that won’t be
fully over for another few weeks. Read
Bryan Lavery’s story about how there is
much more than meets the eye going
on at Grace, but what is visible is
equally inspiring.
We’ve been almost overwhelmed
with the positive reaction we got
when we opened up Eatdrink’s
annual Local Flavour Culinary
Guide to most of Southwest
Ontario. I’ve provided a sneak
peek into what that’s going to
be, and the journey this has been, as we look
forward to the birth of our new publication
in a few short weeks. We’re looking forward
to distributing what will be more like a book
than a magazine.
Choosing to go another route than “holiday
suggestions,” our beer and wine writers address
an approach to imbibing choices more than
specifics (although the latter are there too). In
short: Buy local. Make VQA wines and local
craft beers part of your seasonal celebrations!
You’ll find plenty of other holiday ideas
in the rest of the magazine, including an
expanded BUZZ column full of exciting news
and opportunities. We hope that everyone will
connect with the holiday spirit we’re feeling
here, and finish 2019 enjoying life’s blessings.
Peace,
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
Culinary Retail
November/December 2019 | 7
Gift
Guide
OUR ANNUAL
It really IS
better to
give than
to receive
—when you find
the perfect gift that
is warmly received,
and you haven't felt
caught up in shopping mall
madness. To help you achieve this end, we've
polled a fine range of independent retailers —
the real shopping experts — for suggestions
for the special people in your life. Whether
you're looking for a big present for someone
close to your heart, or a small gift for a
hostess or your friend at work, here are some
new as well as tried-and-true suggestions
from the experts. Happy Shopping!
Established in 1895, Bradshaws remains one of
Canada’s great stores. The emphasis is on pieces
that are design-driven “lifetime” purchases and
unique and innovative products. Such as this
Modern Sprout Ritual Live Well Gift Set.
Grow, steep and sip.
This set encourages
you to take a moment
s
for yourself everyday. Chamomile is the
perfect herbal pairing for this all-in-one
ceramic tea steeper and mug. The Chamomile
Bamboo Grow Kit comes with a complete
passive hydroponic system, plus non-GMO
chamomile seeds. The ceramic mug has a
nested tea leaf strainer that is easily removed
for a perfectly timed brew. The lid acts as a
cover to keep tea warm during brewing and
doubles as a coaster for the strainer.
$66.95 Bradshaws • 129 Ontario St, Stratford •
www.bradshawscanada.com • 519-271-6283
The new CREW Winery & Gallery is now
officially open 7 days a week, with a tasting
bar, a new menu, and retail space that
offers perfect gifts for the wine lovers on
your list. Enjoy your favourite vintage and
keep it at the perfect temperature for hours
on end with the sleek and stylish Bevi
Insulated Wine Tumbler. Made of plastic
and high-grade stainless steel, in a variety
of attractive colours, this double-walled and
vacuum-sealed, shatterproof tumbler keeps
any beverage cold for up to 9 hours, and hot
drinks warm for up to 3 hours. $24.95 CREW
Winery • 108 Essex County Road 50, Harrow ON •
www.fb.com/crewinery • 519-738-9800
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
Nov 2
Nov 3
Nov 16
Nov 17
Nov 21
Nov 27
November/December Events & Highlights
Harry Potter Trivia Night (v2.0) Adult Edition
Harry Potter Trivia Night – Family Friendly Edition
The Art of Cup Tossing: Reading the Tea Leaves
(Level One Novice Course)
The Art of Cup Tossing: Reading the Tea Leaves
(Level Two Adavnced Course)
Songwriter Showcase & Stove-Top Chai (3rd Thursday)
Writing Workshop Series – with award-winning author
Valerie Mills-Milde
Nov 28–Dec 12 Healing Angels of the Energy Field Meditation
Course (3 Thursday evenings)
Dec 4
Dec 15
Writing Workshop Series – with award-winning author
Valerie Mills-Milde
Christmas Afternoon Tea Service
268 Piccadilly Street (at Wellington)
519-601-TEAS (8327) • tealoungelondon.com
WED & THURS 11am-6pm • FRI & SAT 11am-9pm • SUN noon–5pm
Award Winning
Artisan Cheese
Watson’s Chelsea Bazaar is a long-standing
Stratford favourite, with two floors displaying
an eclectic range of goods from around the
world. You’ll find a fine selection of Dunoon’s
Information and Knowledge Mugs that
will educate and astound you with unusual
facts and figures. With numerous themes,
there is something for most fields of interest
and trivia enthusiasts everywhere. Fine bone
china, made in England. From $31 – $37 each.
Watson’s Chelsea Bazaar • 84 Ontario Street,
Stratford • watsonsofstratford.com • 519-273-1790
Gift Baskets to meet
any need and price range
Come Experience Our World!
Visit our cheese shop and sample our unique
handmade cheeses.
See and learn about how cheese is made.
Enjoy the scenery on our 3-generation family farm.
Group tours are available by reservation.
Monday–Saturday 9-5
Christmas Eve 9–2
Closed Christmas
& Boxing Day
445172 Gunn's Hill Rd, Woodstock, ON
519-424-4024
www.gunnshillcheese.ca
From the Meadow handcrafts a wide range of
natural healing products at their “Farmacy”
outside Belmont, including natural cosmetics,
cleansers, toners, soaps and so much more.
A great selection of items are also available
at their booth at The Market at Western
Fair, with special gift packages for the
home, women, men, babies, Valentine’s Day,
and the holiday season. The Candy Cane
Christmas Gift Set includes candy cane
soap, peppermint lip balm, and peppermint
body butter. $20. From the Meadow • 3881 Avon
Drive (Hwy 37), Belmont • fromthemeadow.com •
519-269-3961
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
This year, The Pristine Olive owner Jamie
Griffiths has created a variety of delicious gift
ideas. The Pristine Olive’s Gift Packs can
be fully customized for everyone on your list.
Choose from over 65 flavours of fresh extra
virgin olive oils and balsamic vinegars, in a
variety of sizes. travelling, or just heading
out for dinner, this pack is your perfect
travel companion, or a delicious gift idea for
everyone on your list. $12 – $44 The Pristine
Olive • 884 Adelaide Street North, London •
www.thepristineolive.com • 519-433-4444
An enticing range of pampering bath and
beauty products might be expected at a
lavender
farm shop,
but Steed &
Company
Lavender
also offers a
lovely Home
Essentials
collection —
the Lavender
Pillow Spray
is literally
dreamy!
— and a
number of
delicious
culinary
items, including lavender-enhanced jams,
syrups, honey and tea. Steed & Co. Gift
Collections start at $16.95. Steed & Company
Lavender • 47589 Sparta Line, RR#5 Aylmer • www.
steedandcompany.com • 519-494-5525
Visit our store or shop ONLINE at
www.bradshawscanada.com
Buy Less. Choose Well.
Assorted Chef’s
Knife Rolls
High quality, Canadian made
leather goods and chef accessories
159 King St. South, Unit 2, St. Marys
or order online
haversackleather.ca
HOLIDAY CHEER
IS HERE!
Your Holiday
FEAST HEADQUARTERS
Holiday Seasonings • Gourmet Foods • Gifts They’ll Use!
223 Colborne St., Port Stanley, Open Daily
The Market at Western Fair, London, Sat & Sun
519.782.7800 peppertreespice.com
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
Sha Choix is a year-round favourite for unique
gifts and accessories, and a highlight in the
annual Wortley Village Shopping Event — this
year on November 21. (Hint: Extended hours,
one-night specials, 25% off at Sha Choix!)
Expect to find stylish women’s apparel,
including shoes,
scarves, hats, and
shawls for the season,
and endless gift ideas,
from handmade
soap to men’s
shavings supplies.
A store specialty
is their large everchanging
selection
of accessories and
unique jewellery,
from funky to chic,
like these gorgeous Tibetan rings in a variety
of colours and styles. From $48 – $60. Special
Offer: Bring a copy of this Eatdrink magazine to
receive 15% off! Sha Choix • 158 Wortley Road,
London • www.fb.com/shachoix • 519-204-6336
The civilized and restorative taking of Cream
Tea, a form of British afternoon tea (a light
meal), consists of
tea enjoyed with
a combination of
scones, clotted
cream, and jam.
Show someone you
care with The Village
Teapot’s Cream
Tea Gift Basket,
including delicious
tea, a jar of clotted cream, local jam, and fresh
scones. $35.00, cello-wrapped with a ribbon.
The Village Teapot • 13257 Ilderton Rd, Ilderton •
www.thevillageteapot.ca • 519-298-8327
Gerhard Metzger’s Christmas-themed
salamis are available at Metzger Meats in
Hensall or at The Village Meat Shop at The
Market at Western
Fair. These festive
salamis are perfect
for gift baskets and
stocking stuffers
for the meat-lovers
on your list. $7.99–
$9.99 Metzger Meat
Products • 180 Brock
Ave, Hensall • www.
metzgermeat.com •
519-262-3130
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
“A fun place to shop
for housewares and gifts!”
In the heart of
Wortley Village,
Impressions is
an inspiring and
chic boutique where
fashion motivates creativity, with pieces from
Canada, Europe and the US. You’ll find casual
clothing, dresses, outfits, outerwear and
accessories. Special items this season include
the Rhodes Laptop Bag by Louenhide
($119), a cozy alpaca scarf by Pokoloko
($97.99), and a warm and toasty toque by
Furlux (50% cashmere, 50% wool, $110).
Red leather gloves ($49.99) always make a
statement and are perfect with a black, red
or winter white coat. Impressions • 148 Wortley
Road, London • www.fb.com/Impressions-of-
Wortley-Village-127585337648811 • 519-204-1975
Somerset Fine Wines has established a
strong reputation for “winemaking at its
finest,” offering
a wide variety of
quality wine at an
affordable price.
Gift certificates for
wine-making are
available. They also
have an extensive
range of gifts for
wine lovers, from
festive holiday
decorations,
accessories and
glasses, such as
these Trudeau
Oxygen Wine
Glasses. The
elegant embossing oxygenates as you pour
or swirl your favourite wine, releasing its full
aroma and taste. Starting at $19.99.
Somerset Fine Wines • 150 Exeter Road, London •
www.somersetfinewines.com • 519-652-3998
“Winterberry” Pottery
Encapsulating the true essence of
December and festive gathering tableware.
WATSON’S
CHELSEA BAZAAR
84 Ontario St. Stratford
watsonsofstratford.com
519-273-1790
Awaken Your Tastebuds!
Choose from over 50 of the freshest and
finest extra virgin olive oils and aged
balsamic vinegars ...
Great Gift Ideas
Gift Certificates
21 York Street, Stratford
519-508-1757
oliveyourfavourites.com
12 | November/December 2019
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
Pepper Tree Spice Co. is well known for their huge selection of more than
300 organic fine spices & artisan blends including a large selection of
specialty gourmet foods, kitchenware, cookware and more. This season,
you’ll find amazing gift ideas for every budget, including this 4-piece
Natural Living Gold Tone Cheese Knife Gift
Set, $26.95. Buy separately or pair with in-store
local artisan cheeses and gourmet goodies to
create the ultimate gift basket. Pepper Tree Spice
Co. • Port Stanley, 223A Colborne St. (Daily); London
Western Fair Market, 900 King St. (Weekends) • www.
peppertreespice.com • 519-782-7800
Owner Kate St Laurent and her hospitable
Bake Shop Studio crew deliver everything one
expects in a boutique bakery. They specialize
in beautiful, made-from-scratch cakes
and pastries, including wedding, birthday,
bridal and shower cakes. The shop is just
hard enough to find that a visit feels like
discovering a secret treasure trove. Located
Destination for the food lover
Featuring specialty foods,
kitchenwares, tablewares,
cooking classes and gift baskets.
115 King St., London Ontario
jillstable.ca 519-645-1335
Open Sundays Until Christmas
in Wortley Village, upstairs above the former
Village Harvest Bakery, walk-ins will find an
enticing array of cookies, cupcakes and French
macarons. Perfect for holiday festivities or
just a special treat, this Bake Shop Studio
Cookie Box includes 16 gluten-free mini
cookies, that will be gift wrapped with a
bow. $30. Bake Shop Studio • 145 Wortley Road,
London • bakeshopstudio.com • 519-319-6167
Your sustainable studio who cares
hair • colour • barber • skin • spa • makeup • 4 everyone
140 Ann Street, Suite 106, London
519 709 4247
www.studioHartistgroup.com
@studioHartistgroup
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
The Tea Lounge has
established a loyal
following as a relaxing
place for a beverage
and a nutritious bite,
as well as for its classes
exploring various aspects of “tea culture.”
Now available are three new Performance
Tea Therapeutic CBD + Adaptogen Teas.
Each serving contains 20mg of high quality,
full spectrum, hemp CBD for excellent
anti-inflammatory and nervous system
support. CBD + Adaptogen formulations are
designed to support performance recovery,
mobility & movement and sleep. They also
have three formulations of Green Tea +
Adaptogens that are excellent to support
peak performance during the day.
The Tea Lounge • 268 Piccadilly Street, London •
tealoungelondon.com • 519-601-TEAS (8327)
Heather Wenman, a National Ambassador
for L’Oréal Professionnel Canada, is CEO of
Studio H Artist Group — “London’s sustainable
salon, barber & spa who cares” — leading
a talented team that’s proudly conscientious
of the environment
while helping their
clients look and be
their best. Studio H
uses ammonia-free
and non-perfumed
colour and styling
products and is now
offering 20% off the
L’Oréal Naturality
line LA SOURCE
Essentielle for sustainable
gifting this holiday season. The Shampoo +
Conditioner Gift Pack is now $58 (regular
$74). Varying formulas are available, with
80–100% natural, high-quality ingredients.
The eco-designed shampoo bottles are refillable
in the salon, with an additional 20% off
each refill for reducing plastics. Studio H Artist
Group • 140 Ann Street, Suite 106, London •
studioHartistgroup.com • 519-709-4247
Natural Healing Products
handcrafted with locally grown, pure,
simple, wholesome ingredients
We’ve assembled a large variety of
Gift Packages & Holiday Singles
at both of our great locations!
519-269-3961
fromthemeadow.com
The Farmacy
3881 Avon Drive (Hwy 37), Belmont
MON–FRI 10–4, SAT 10–2
OPEN HOUSE!
DEC. 5, 3–8
DEC. 7, 10–4
The Market at Western Fair District
SAT 8–3, SUN 10–2
growers & creators of fine lavender products
DISCOVER.
INDULGE.
ESCAPE.
519-494-5525
47589 Sparta Line, Sparta
Wed–Sat 10-5; Sun 12–4
Mother’s Day to Dec. 20
steedandcompany.com
Join us for our
Christmas
Open House
November
16 & 17
14 | November/December 2019
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
Jill’s Table offers a wide variety of specialty food items, kitchen gadgets,
cookware, bakeware and fabulous cooking classes. As part of her store’s
20th year of operation, owner Jill Wilcox has created a unique holiday
idea. The Jill’s Table Anniversary Food Box is “a gift box for food
lovers!” Each box offers a unique assortment of products from around
the world, some that aren’t always available in the store. Jill has sourced
items from their country of origin, often working with small, familyowned
companies. The initial box will be available for pick-up
in the store until December 24. You can also subscribe to Jill’s
Food Subscription Series which includes three boxes. Pick up
your first box by Christmas Eve. The other two boxes will be delivered
in March and June 2020 directly to your home (Delivery is included
Haversack
Leather Goods
proprietor
Natalie
Crittenden
does a great
deal of custom
work but also
makes a wide
variety of
extraordinary
products available
for purchase,
including motorcycle
accessories, leather
purses, bags, wallets
and more. Married
to a chef, she has
designed and created inspired products for anyone
who loves to cook. Haversack Knife Rolls come
in many colours and materials including canvas
or waxed canvas, as well as luxurious and sturdy
leathers. This is a great way to safely transport
precious tools to the cottage, boat, vacation rental
or a professional kitchen. Haversack goods are
made in Canada and built to last. Prices start at $99.
Haversack Leather Goods • 159 King Street South, St.
Marys • www.haversackleather.ca
In the Heart of Wortley Village
and currently
only available
within London
city limits.
Quantities are
limited. First Box is $89.99. Subscription
for 3 boxes is $299.99. Jill’s Table • 115 King
Street, London • jillstable.ca • 519-645-1335
Toast the holiday season with Cowbell
Brewing Co.’s Almanac 2019 Imperial
Stout. Almanac is luscious and delicious,
showing off notes of roasted malt,
espresso, chocolate, molasses and a hint
of fudge and
dark fruit
complexity,
making it
the perfect
complement
to any holiday
gathering.
Get 10%
off purchases
online using
the discount code EatDrink10.(code
valid until December 31, 2019). Cowbell
Brewing Co. • 40035 Blyth Rd, Blyth •
cowbellbrewing.com • 1-844-523-4724
Sha
Choix
GIFTS & ACCESSORIES
Handmade Jewellery
Glam items
Shoes, bags and clutches
Unique Gifts
Luxe Free Cappuccino Service
158 Wortley Road, London
519.204.6336
shachoix.com
facebook.com/shachoix
Holiday
Shopping
Event!
Nov. 21
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
Anderson Craft Ales is
offering an incredibly
soft crew neck sweater
that became an instant
favourite around the
brewery. The blackon-black
logo across
the front of the high
neck, cotton blend
sweater is subtle but
neatly identifies the
wearer as an Anderson
supporter. Package
this with a special
bottle or six pack for
the craft beer fan on your list. Sweater $35
Anderson Craft Ales • 1030 Elias Street, London •
andersoncraftales.ca • 548-888-ALES (2537)
A gift certificate from a unique store or a
fabulous local restaurant can be a reflection
of your good taste and the interests of the
recipient. They
are available from
most businesses, in
denominations that
fit your budget.
$100 Value
Boutique Bakery
Buttercream Cakes,
Cookies and
French Macarons
gluten free and
vegan options
Wedding
Consultations
by Appointment
145 Wortley Road, London
Upstairs— above the former Village Harvest Bakery
bakeshopstudio.com
16 | November/December 2019
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
Restaurants
Amazing Grace
Conscious Canadian Cuisine at Grace in Downtown London
By BRYAN LAVERY | Photos by ALIESKA ROBLES
It’s rare that a restaurant of this calibre
comes along. It makes us rethink
food and restaurant policies in fresh
and meaningful ways. Those who
have patronized downtown London’s Grace
Restaurant will have insight into the
obstacles of building a restaurant in
a former fast food location in the
middle of a construction zone. Grace
is a cosmopolitan urban experience,
an ambitious undertaking, and a
dedicated affirmation of co-owner/
executive chef Angela Murphy’s
expectation of the transformational
effects of the new flex street known as Dundas
Place. This revitalized streetscape is expected to
encourage urban renewal and pedestrian traffic,
and to provide enhanced economic and social
opportunities and residential intensification.
The promise of increased foot traffic, alfresco
dining and a setting that showcases the
heritage and character of the downtown are
among the reasons that the team at Grace
gravitated to the Dundas Place concept.
Named for Grace Murphy, Angela’s
grandmother, the 72-seat restaurant
prioritizes quality, seasonality,
locally-procured ingredients,
industry fairness, community
engagement, and social
responsibility. Ingredients are used
consciously and allow the flexibility to
change menu items or rotate dishes. At
last count, there were 65 different suppliers.
The assurance at Grace is that the food
and drink are crafted with artistry and
uncompromising dedication to excellence and
intention. The offering is billed as “Conscious
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
A minimalist dining room (opposite page) helps maintain
a focus on the food at Grace. Relax in the lounge (above),
or at the bar in front of the open kitchen. Comfortable
banquettes (below) add warmth and help define the space.
Merry Makers Fair
Sunday, November 10, 11am–4pm
Christmas Merry Makers Fair
Sunday, December 15, 11am–4pm
100% handmade events held in the heart of
the Forest City. The Merry Makers Fair mission
is simple: to inspire and encourage
up-and-coming small, 100% handmade
businesses and connect
them with conscious consumers in
London. You'll find some of the
best handmade shopping around,
from Art, Home Decor, Jewelry,
Clothing, and Bath & Beauty
products. Join us upstairs on
the Mezzanine. Admission is
free. Find everything you need to complete
your Christmas list while supporting local at
the same time!
Whimsical Christmas Craft Show
Saturday, November 23rd, 9am–5pm
NEW to the Market this year! Join us
upstairs on the Mezzanine. There
will be plenty of things to
see and purchase for the
holiday season! Crafts, food and
so much more!
Photo courtesy of Bryan Lavery
Enjoy half an hour Monday–Friday and 2 Hours
FREE parking on Saturday and Sunday, upon validation.
For more event info visit coventmarket.com
or our Facebook page
Canadian Cuisine,” draws on tradition, and
is infused with regional influences and local
flavours. Intention is a mandate at Grace,
requiring focus, action and good energy to
manifest. Even the minimalist backdrop
co-created by Design House intentionally
allows for the drama of the plating of the
dishes to be a primary focus.
Market Hours
Monday to Saturday
Mezzanine & Restaurant Hours Differ
18 | November/December 2019
At Grace, Executive Chef/C0-Owner Angela Murphy offers
“Conscious Canadian Cuisine” — drawing on tradition
infused with regional influences and local flavours.
Murphy’s vision with sous chefs Cody
Tanner-Slater and Kyle Newman is aspirational
and modern with multi-cultural riffs and
influences that are uniquely Canadian.
We have sampled many of the dishes and
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
especially loved the devilled Aylmer shrimp
with smoked tomato, sweet potato, cured
egg yolk, mustard greens and poppy seeds.
Impeccable melt-in-your-mouth fresh Lake
Erie pickerel was a seasonal special served with
Hasselback potatoes, French beans, and dill
and caper beurre blanc. Other favourites were
the House Ricotta with toasted chilies, stone
fruit, pistachios, sweet olive oil and toast.
Pastry chef Roger Porcellato has a
passion for baking artisanal bread and
crafting pastries. There is a dedicated focus
on creating all things in-house. Roger has
worked at the former Church Restaurant in
Stratford, the former Berlin in Kitchener,
and Newfoundland’s Fogo Island Inn. An
uncompromising perfectionist, Porcellato
collaborates with Murphy on an evolving
robust bread and pastry program. Like the
rest of the culinary team, his subtleties
and strengths reveal the qualities of the
ingredients used in the restaurant.
Lauren Fitzgerald has curated a charismatic,
spirit-forward seasonal craft cocktail and beer
program. Sommelier/partner Pete Annson
has instituted an interesting and eclectic wine
Photo courtesy of Grace Restaurant
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November/December 2019 | 19
Sous Chef Cody Slater
selection that emphasizes the importance of
small production vineyards.
Murphy pursued academics out of high
school and has a double major degree in
Humanities and English Literature. She
attended Stratford Chefs School, graduating
in 2011. At the Windermere Café, Murphy
Executive Chef Angela Murphy
was mentored by Kristian Crossen (formerly
of Braise and Langdon Hall, and now Food
and Beverage Manager/Executive Chef for
Great Hall Catering at Western). Murphy
succeeded Crossen and took over the reins at
Windermere Manor’s new Restaurant Ninety
One, where she nurtured direct relationships
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Online.
SINCE
2007
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discerning readers are found, or
conveniently read the whole
issue on your computer, tablet
or smartphone.
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Get Connected!
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20 | November/December 2019
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
with farmers and suppliers before conceptualizing Grace.
The staffing model challenges the traditional roles of the
front and back-of-house, with the cooks often serving and
engaging with tables. It is an open kitchen in the most real
sense, approachable and transparent. Murphy knows that
it is fiscally responsible to make an investment in training
workers properly about the various positions within the
restaurant. “We recognized in the beginning that we were
going to have a high labour cost. We pay our employees a
living wage. We are trying to make the best of the fact that
the capitalist systems — paying workers less than a living
wage — in the restaurant business are broken. We want the
staff fully invested in the restaurant, so we have adopted a
co-op model with no upper management salaries.”
This type of innovation is so unusual and forwardthinking
that it made headlines when the owners of Emma’s
Country Kitchen on St. Clair Avenue West in Toronto
proclaimed they would add a non-compulsory three percent
surcharge on guest checks so full-time workers could have
health benefits. Some patrons complained, other patrons
and colleagues in the industry commended the move. There
is a debate in the restaurant community about whether
a surcharge is too contentious and whether it is the most
sensible way to underwrite enhanced working conditions for
restaurant employees. Some restaurants introducing health
benefits for workers are sidestepping the surcharge and
choosing instead to raise prices.
Changing the patriarchal kitchen hierarchy and the
dismantling of oppressive constructs are topics Murphy and
I have discussed on several occasions. Historically there has
been wage inequality and institutionalized segregation by
gender and race in the restaurant business. There remains
a profound connection between sexism and homophobia in
the restaurant kitchen culture. Everyone is entitled to equal
protection in the workplace. “The traditional hospitality
industry is unfriendly to women, especially in the back of
the house. We have known this for years — the long hours,
the macho aggression, the harassment present in many
kitchens. The point is that it’s not just women that suffer from
these issues. Men don’t thrive in this environment, either.
I have worked with men that have had problems balancing
work and life because of the late nights, the stress, and the
physical labour,” says Murphy wistfully. “Many men have been
harassed, felt bullied and intimidated in a toxic atmosphere
which allows only a narrow range of personalities to succeed.
In the ideal kitchen, and I like to think we model our kitchen
after that ideal, everyone feels supported, listened to and
respected. I would even go so far as to say, utterly rebellious to
the traditional chef mentality, that restaurants should be more
accommodating to the personal lives of their staff. The kitchen
Top: Soft boiled egg, brioche toast soldiers, duxelles, beet mayo, radishes,
beer powder & celery root.
Middle: Lake Erie pickerel, wild rice, black lentils & red cabbage consomme.
Bottom: Maitake mushroom, Swiss chard rondelles, walnut & pickled
celery.
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
Spirit-forward, seasonal craft
cocktails by Lauren Fitzgerald
is not a cult, and
you shouldn’t
have to forsake
your family, your
friends and your
relationships to
be successful.
Ultimately,
the kitchen is
a meritocracy
regardless of
gender. That’s
the best part.
Even if you are at
a disadvantage
to start because
you are a woman,
or because you
can’t afford the
fanciest tools, or
because you don’t
speak English, or
you have a mental illness, if you can cook, you
get respect. If your plates look good, you get
respect. If you clean up after yourself and help
your team when they need you, if you work
hard, it can’t go unnoticed, and you will earn
your place.”
If you’re looking for a modern dining and
drinking experience, Grace is the ideal venue
for a multi-course tasting menu with wine
pairings. Relax at the bar in front of the open
kitchen or in the lounge with a signature
cocktail or choose from the carefully curated
beer and wine list. Grace offers late-night
snacks and drinks after your downtown
concert or trip to the theatre.
Grace Restaurant
215 Dundas Street, London (at Clarence)
226-667-4822
gracelondon.ca
dinner: wednesday–saturday from 5 pm
sunday: 6–8 pm
lunch: thursday–friday 11:30 am–2 pm
brunch: sunday 11:30 am–2 pm
BRYAN LAVERY, Eatdrink Food Editor and Writer at
Large, brings years of professional experience in the
restaurant and hospitality business as a chef, restaurateur
and partner in the culinary experience and consulting
business, Lavery Culinary Group. Always on the lookout
for stories Eatdrink should be telling, he helps shape the
magazine both under his byline and behind the scenes.
at The Market at Western Fair
on Weekends!
ALIESKA ROBLES is a London photographer and
producer of Forest City Cookbook. alieskarobles.com
22 | November/December 2019
SPONSORED BY
Road Trips
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A Southwest Ontario Journey
Our Local Flavour Guide Expansion
By CHRIS McDONELL
CHATHAM-KENT • ELGIN • HALDIMAND • HURON • LONDON • MIDDLESEX • NORFOLK
OXFORD • PERTH • SARNIA-LAMBTON • STRATFORD • WINDSOR-ESSEX
Local Flavour
SOUTHWEST ONTARIO
CULINARY GUIDE
Restaurants • Specialty Shops & Services • Farmers’ Markets
Craft Beer & Local Wine • Agri-Tourism Attractions
eatdrink
The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine
localflavour.ca
EXPANDED
EDITION
VOLUME 8
Unlike most of the storiees readers are
accustomed to seeing in this space, the
following is not a journey that anyone can
truly replcate. This is the story about how
our soon-to-be-released Local Flavour guide came to
be. I have sprinkled ads and photos from many of
the businesses represented in the guide throughout
this narrative. If it is not fully obvious, I will state
explicitly that we
are very excited
about this project.
This is an Eatdrink
story at the
moment, but the
guide is the story of
hundreds of hardworking
creative
people, in scores
of businesses that
make Southwest
Ontario a vital
and exciting place
to live in. We’re
thankful for the opportunity this has created to work with
such an illustrious group.
Change is never easy, nor without risk. After publishing
London’s Local Flavour perennially for the better part of a
decade, the Eatdrink
Craft Farmacy, London
team decided to
explore an expansion
of that popular
culinary guide into
a broader territory.
There had been plenty
of positive feedback
from participants
in this annual
undertaking, who
each shared a stake in
putting a high quality
guide together. Tens
of thousands of hard
copies were eagerly
Garlic’s of London, London
The Boombox Bakeshop, London
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
November/December 2019 | 23
There’s always room for refinement. It’s this belief that set the next iteration of
the RX into motion. With a striking exterior refresh, standard LSS+ 2.0,
cutting-edge technologies including touchscreen display with Apple CarPlay
and Android Auto, the new 2020 Lexus RX is the pinnacle of function and form.
2020 Lexus RX Models
Starting at $58,871.90*
Taxes and licensing extra.
Apple CarPlay is a trademark of Apple Inc. All rights reserved. Android Auto is a trademark of Google LLC. Use of this trademark is subject to Google Permissions.
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FINE FOOD FOR FINE PEOPLE
BOOK YOUR HOLIDAY PARTY
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picked up by interested consumers — a mix of
tourists and locals — faster than ever in 2019,
and thousands more are reading Local Flavour
online. This joint effort was a success in every
measurable way, and effectively showcased
the culinary assets of the city of London.
It struck us here at Eatdrink, however, that
London could benefit even more by being part
of a guide that would draw more attention
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The Village Teapot, Ilderton
G R A C E R E S T A U R A N T
farm-to-table fine dining downtown
throughout Southwest Ontario. Discussions
ensued, and the responses from London
establishments were extremely positive.
“a gastronomical landmark for over 23 years”
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Defining the Territory
We understood that a broader guide would
serve the interests of a public with a
passionate hunger and thirst for quality local
food and drink. Back in 2011, we’d published
an award-winning culinary guide sponsored by
the Ontario Ministry of Tourism for the thennewly-created
Regional Tourism Organization
One (RTO1),
soon named the
Southwestern
Ontario Tourism
Corporation
(SWOTC). We
analyzed that
region’s diverse
strengths,
and identified
those that
were offering a
genuinely local
experience.
The geographic
parameters
were somewhat
disappointing
to us because of
Eatdrink’s strong
The Windjammer Inn,
Port Stanley
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
Sixthirtynine, Woodstock
Gift Certificates
Available
roots in Perth County (Stratford especially)
and Huron County, but those counties
were incorporated by the province into
neighbouring RTO4.
In more recent years, through publishing
Eatdrink, and in particular running our
popular “Road Trip” features, we’ve come to
know firsthand the current strengths of this
area. Our beer and wine columnists maintain
Heeman’s, Thorndale
Booking Now
for the
Holiday Season
& New Year’s Eve
481 Richmond Street
519-432-4092
garlicsoflondon.com
NEW
WINTER
MENU
a regional focus and we’ve been so excited to
see the creative explosion of craft breweries
(there was only one local craft brewery when
we launched Eatdrink in 2007) and the growth
in number and quality in our local wineries.
Add to that new cideries and distilleries,
and the almost universal embracing of local
products by our better restaurants. The list of
potential and worthy candidates for a regional
guide is truly enormous.
The parameters of “local” that have been
defined for our guide stretches from Windsor
through Chatham-Kent and Elgin County
to Woodstock, up to Stratford and over to
Goderich in Huron County. Would we find
enough interested participants needed to
make this work? We got our answer in very
short order: a resounding YES!
FLIGHTS & BITES
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Tuesday–Friday from 3:30–5:30pm
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Locally Sourced Ingredients
Authentic Italian Cuisine
Local Craft Beers
Regional & Organic Wines from Italy
Take Out & Gift Certificates Available
Tuesday–Thursday 4pm–8pm
Friday & Saturday 11:30am–10pm
Sunday Brunch 11am–2pm, Dinner 3pm–7pm
Reservations Recommended
2135 Dorchester Road, Dorchester
519-268-0001
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Freshly home-made in the heart of the community
The
Village
Teapot
Ask about Catering &
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Edison’s Café Bar, Stratford
New Partners
The small but mighty Eatdrink team fanned
out and had many exciting meetings with old
acquaintances and new. Participants signed on
but our momentum really accelerated when we
got a solid boost
from SWOTC, who
saw an opportunity
to promote their
region’s extensive
culinary resources
and multiply their
own efforts by
supporting our
project. (If you are
unfamiliar with
SWOTC, especially
as a tourismrelated
business,
I encourage you
to visit swotc.ca
post haste! The
Anna Mae’s Bakery &
good folks there
Restaurant, Millbank
offer tremendous
marketing and research support.) Through our
SWOTC connection, we solidified enhanced
support from the local tourism offices as well as
the Ontario Tourism Information Centres, who
Breakfast
Brunch
Lunch
Cream Teas
Wed–Fri 10:30–3:30
Sat & Sun 10–2
Gift Certificates Available
13257 Ilderton Road, Ilderton ON
thevillageteapot.ca
519-298-TEAS (8327)
The Red Rabbit, Stratford
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
will be helping promote the guide through
their physical locations and online. This made
it even easier for new businesses to see the
benefits of participating.
The gratifying response led to our fist
unforeseen problem: So many new profiles
to assemble that we couldn’t meet the initial
deadline we had established. As far as problems
go, this is one of the better ones to have, but
the pressure to deliver a guide that merited a
wait is intense. Needless to say, we have been
busy, as we far exceeded our most optimistic
targets for a first volume of this scope.
Rhéo Thompson Candies, Stratford
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28 | November/December 2019
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
We also faced a more physical challenge. Can we actually fit
everyone interested into one publication? Yes we can, but we had
to change the binding to a “perfect bound” style — readers will
love this — to accommodate twice the page count. The handy size
is retained, but this guide will have far more heft. More important,
in the end, we will not only have a bigger guide, but a better guide.
I soon realized that we are creating a more diversified publication,
built on the strengths of our previous guides, but a more accurate
The Tin Fiddler & River Run Brew Co.,
Sarnia
reflection of the culinary
industry as a whole. That is
satisfying on so many levels.
Storm Stayed Brewing Co.,
London
Great Expectations
Our amazing restaurants
continue to get their due
in this guide, and we’re
able to highlight so many
of them here. Our biggest
frustration with Eatdrink
is the constraints on the
number of stories we can tell
in any one issue, which is not an issue here. Our greatest
strength with Eatdrink is the quality of our writers. Even
our BUZZ column, which could have been handled as a
laundry list of events, is engagingly assembled. While
a culinary guide is most definitely not a magazine, we
have developed a format that marries the practical
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
functionality of a strong guide with good
writing, in a way that invites exploration.
Each profile is a small but powerful snapshot
of a local independent business that will
reward your interest with a unique and
positive experience. We were selective in who
was invited into this guide.
I am particularly pleased with how we have
grown our Craft
Blue Elephant Craft Brew House,
Simcoe
Beer section
of the guide. A
dozen of our
region’s best
brewers are
represented,
from small
family-run
operations such
as Shakespeare
Brewing Co. in
the small hamlet
of Shakespeare,
or Storm Stayed
Brewing Co.
in London, to
the stunningly
beautiful
where art is
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BAKERY
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www.heycupcake.ca
1305 Riverbend Road, Suite 110
519-433-CAKE (2253)
STORE HOURS: Mon–Fri 11–7
Saturday 10–5 • Sunday 11–4
Benmiller Inn & Spa
gather with great friends and divine dining
www.benmiller.ca | 519-524-2191 | 1-800-265-1711
81175 Benmiller Line, Goderich, N7A 3Y1
30 | November/December 2019
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
Cowbell Brewing Co. operation in Blyth and Toboggan Brewing Co.,
smack-dab in Downtown London.
The Lake Erie North Shore wine region is also well showcased
with four of their best, and Alton Farms Estate Winery continues to
represent the emerging Huron Shores wine region. Also especially
satisfying to me is the inclusion of two craft distilleries: Wolfhead
Distillery in Amherstburg and Junction 56 Distillery in Stratford.
Add in the Twin Pines Orchards & Cider House in Thedford, and
Munro Honey & Meadery in Alvinston, and the spectrum of
artisanal beverage producers is here in force.
I am also glad that we are including some of our best Agri-
Tourism Attractions, helping to complete the actual farm-to-table
ethos that we
talk about so
much. From
Alton Farms Estate Winery,
berry producers
Plympton-Wyoming
(and more!) such
as Heeman’s in
London to the
pickle-makers at
Sunshine Farms in Thamesville, this guide
will truly offer an authentic taste of what
Southwest Ontario has to offer.
Local Flavour: Southwest Ontario Culinary
Guide will be published in late November.
Toboggan Brewing Co., London
Copies will be widely available, and a list
of pickup locations will be posted on the
Book your
Holiday Party &
New Year’s Eve
with us!
Gift Certificates Available!
At Revival House, a devotion to preserving the best of Stratford’s culinary
and historic past blends with a forward-looking energy to make this
the city’s ultimate venue for cuisine, entertainment, and memory-making.
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
localflavour.ca website. The entire publication
will also be available to read online, on any
device, in a handy flipbook version that will
include online links to each establishment.
Every profile will also be available as a
separate “story” that can be easily shared on
Facebook or with a Twitter or Instagram link.
We proudly look forward to seeing people
using this guide.
CHRIS McDONELL is Publisher and the founder of
Eatdrink. He can be reached at chris@eatdrink.ca
Shakespeare Brewing Co., Shakespeare
Something
Gift Certificates
Available
for
Everyone!
Book your Holiday Party or Catering with us!
Fresh Local Ingredients
Gluten Free & Vegetarian Options
Great Selection of Craft Beer & Cider
Tuesday–Saturday
Lunch 11:30–2:00 & Dinner 4:45–8:45
159 Queen Street, St. Marys ON
519-914-8811
Follow Us!
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HOLIDAY
PARTY
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With custom menus from both kitchen
and bar, we will work together to create
the perfect atmosphere for anything
from a casual cocktail party to a
formal seated dinner.
30 Ontario Street, Stratford, ON
www.themillstone.ca
themillstoneON
(519)273.5886
32 | November/December 2019
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eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
November/December 2019 | 33
34 | November/December 2019
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Beer
Small Town Treasures
12 Small Craft Breweries Worth a Road Trip
BY GEORGE MACKE
Tiny breweries in small towns are
beginning to dot the landscape of
Southwestern Ontario, waiting to
be discovered by craft beer explorers
These are nano and microbreweries, labelled
as such by the small batches or annual output
they produce. Many sell their beer only from
an on-site bottle shop, in labouriously filled
500 mL bottles or 1.8 mL growlers. Some
hire a portable canning line to package beer
Caps Off Brewing Company
168 Curtis Street, St. Thomas. Opened in
2019, Caps Off was a hobby that’s become a
business for couple Rick and Fran Dunseith.
The low-key brewery on a downtown side
street gives
a tip of the
hat with the
beer names
— Under the
Brim Cream
Ale, Drop of
a Hat IPA, Straw Hat Saison, and Stove Pipe
Stout. A sampler tray is called a Hat Trick, and
it’s an excellent place to start. Caps Off was
at the Truly Local Craft Beer Festival hosted
by London Brewing in September, upping its
local ingredient credibility.
in tallboy cans. Some are farm-based, with a
hops yard literally out back.
They’re never mentioned in the same
breath as Steam Whistle, Mill Street, or
Muskoka and unless you live in or near the
rural towns they call home, chances are you
don’t know they exist.
This is by no means an exhaustive list, but
here are 12 spots to explore, worth a road trip
of brewski discovery.
Natterjack Brewing Company
25929 Talbot Line, West Lorne. A family
brewery inspired by son Matt Soos, Natterjack
was opened in 2016 by a group of six family
members with rural roots in west Elgin
County. The beer
to take home is
Natterjack Toad, a
Belgian-style blonde.
The brewery has also
brewed interesting
seasonal or one-off
beers such as Easy
Breezy Blueberry
Squeezy, which was featured at Truly Local.
This dark ale incorporated fresh blueberries
grown on two West Elgin farms.
The New Heart of Downtown Sarnia
Gift
Certificates
Available
New
Party Room
for the
Holidays!
The Tin Fiddler Brew Pub
& River Run Brew Co.
146/148 Christina St. N, Sarnia
226-784-2337
TheTinFiddler
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
Rusty Wrench Brewing Company
9 Front Street West, Strathroy. A brewery
and pub, Rusty Wrench opened in 2017. Its core
beers
include
Crappy
Tire, a
hefty 7.5% alcohol oatmeal stout with notes
of dark chocolate and coffee. There’s also Left
Handed Spanner, a West Coast-style fruity IPA.
Stonepicker Brewing
7143 Forest Road, Plympton-Wyoming. A
farm-based brewery near Forest, Stonepicker
is the creation of two farm couples with
passions for agriculture and
beer. Opened in 2017,
Stonepicker’s slogan
“Our beer rocks” fits
nicely. Its beers carry
farmer themes, and
the places to start are
the Crop Tour lager and
the Farmer’s Tan blonde
ale, Oops It Fell Out is also a lager
and uses barley malted on site. Among the
seasonals is Pail Ale, an earthy pale ale brewed
with British hops.
Widder Station Brewing
8395 Decker Road, Thedford. A brewery, a
pub, and a golf course.
Pick your passion.
Widder Station’s
flagship beer is a lager
crafted for the 19th
hole. Train Wreck is
a light 4.8 per cent
alcohol lager served on
tap. The rest of the board is filled with a wellcurated
selection of craft beers from the likes
November/December 2019 | 35
of Sons of Kent in Chatham, Railway City in
St. Thomas, and Stonepicker.
River Road Brewing and Hops
35449 Bayfield River Road, Bayfield.
A family farm-based brewery, River Road
captures the
hearts of
malty beer
lovers with
Up Your
Kilt, a heavy
Scottish style
ale. It’s 6.8 per cent alcohol, making it as strong
as a caber tosser. Intriguing seasonals include
Survey Elixir, an IPA infused with spruce tips.
Stone House Brewery
76048 Parr Line, Varna. Hockey player Ryan
O’Reilly made little Varna famous when he won
the Stanley Cup with the St. Louis Blues last
spring. But before that there was Stone House,
the original craft brewery in Huron County.
Stone House’s newest beer is a Bavarian lager.
But it started with and
still highlights a Czechstyle
pilsner brewed
with Saaz hops. There’s
a compact space to enjoy
Stone House beers on
site, but it’s best to take
some bottles home from
the shop. Stone House
beers are also served at several top eateries in
the region, including Hessenland on Highway
21 near St. Joseph, Bentley’s in Stratford and
Smackwater Jack’s in Grand Bend.
Half Hours on Earth
151 Main Street, Seaforth. Highly regarded
in the craft beer world, Half Hours on Earth
36 | November/December 2019
brews a barrage of farmhouse sour-style beer
recipes in small batches. Among them are some
oak barrel-aged and flavour-infused beers such
as Bees! (a sour with honey) and Attenborough
(a mild entry-level farmhouse). Centigrade, also
oak-aged,
incorporates
black
currants and
dandelion
root. Things
change so often, fans need to frequently check
the Half Hours website to verify availability. Or,
better still, just go with what they’ve got when
you get there.
Shakespeare Brewing Company
2178 Line 34, Shakespeare. Located a short
drive from Stratford, Shakespeare Brewing is
owned by a husband-and-wife team. Reckless
Rooster,
a pale ale
featuring
Ontariogrown
Shop online ingredients,
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
is the star attraction and there’s no kidding
with Grumpy Goat, the brewer’s bitter take on
an India Pale Ale. It’s a milk stout that catches
the eye as the weather turns cold. Classy Cow
is full-bodied, smooth and finishes sweet.
Bitte Schön Brauhaus
68 Huron Street, New Hamburg. The
name means “You’re Welcome” in German.
Located in a renovated historic building,
Bitte Schön brews gluten-free beers. Huron
Street Hefeweisen is sold in cans at the LCBO.
There are free
tours Saturday
afternoons
and you can
bring in food
from nearby
restaurants
to eat while
enjoying a beer inside the brewery. Owned
by the same folks who run Descendants Beer
& Beverage Co. in Kitchener, Bitte Schön has
a special item for sale on the menu — the
brewery itself.
’til the COWBELLs come home!
Receive 10% off ALL BEER PURCHASES online at store.cowbellbrewing.com
with the promo code “EatDrink10”
— Discount code is valid until December 31, 2019 —
40035 BLYTH RD., BLYTH, ON N0M 1H0 1-844-523-4724 WWW.COWBELLBREWING.COM
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
Ramblin’ Road Brewery Farm
2970 Swimming Pool Road, La Salette.
Peanuts with your beer? Ramblin’ Road traces
its entrepreneurial food, family farming,
and beverage lineage
to Picard Peanuts.
An early player in
farm-based brewing,
Ramblin’ Road has
the perfect gift for
the craft beer fan on
your Christmas list
— a “Quick Six” pack
“grown” on the farm
and featuring Pure
Bred Red and Ramblin’
Road’s lager family, and its IPA. Piquing
interest is Dakota Pearl Ale made with the
same potatoes used to make Ramblin’ Road’s
kettle chips. The pairing seems obvious.
Dundas & Sons Brewing Company
400 Adelaide Street North, London. Rob
Dundas, the big bearded owner of Old East
Village’s tiniest brewery will make you feel
at home. Dundas &
Sons, which famously
uses hops grown on
the owner’s porch,
brews beer styles
you’d expect, such
as an American pale
ale, and some you
might not, such as
a honey elderberry
saison. The board changes frequently and
the selection is supplemented by kegs from
other brewers..
GEORGE MACKE is a craft beer fan living in London.
38 | November/December 2019
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
Wine
VQA Wines
Embracing the Destinations
by GARY KILLOPS
Winemaking in Ontario has been
going on for well over 200 years
but the wines did not always
have a good reputation.
Ontario wines were made from native vitis
labrusca grapes like catawba and concord
which became the backbone of Ontario wine
in those early days. Concord grapes are now
better known for being used in
jellies, jams and grape juice.
About 35 years ago a few
Niagara vineyard owners planted
European vitis vinifera vines and
began changing the reputation
of Ontario wine. Vinifera such
as chardonnay, riesling, cabernet
franc, merlot and pinot noir
began to replace the “grapey”
tasting wines made from
labrusca grapes.
As the quality of Ontario
wines began to improve a group of Ontario
wineries created the Vintners Quality Alliance
(vqa) to set out geographic appellations and
introduce strict production standards. This
system is similar to the regulatory systems
in France (aoc/aop), Spain (do), and Italy
(doc/dop).
The vqa logo on a bottle of Ontario indicates
several things, but most importantly that
100% of the grapes used to make the wine were
grown in Ontario. This past October a new and
updated Ontario vqa logo was
introduced.
The Wine Marketing
Association of Ontario
(wmao), in partnership with
Ontario’s Wine Appellation
Authority (vqao), revealed the
modernized and striking “New
and Next” Ontario vqa logo,
the emblem used by Ontario
vqa wineries as a mark of
origin, quality and authenticity.
The vqa logo guarantees that
only Ontario-grown grapes go into every
bottle of Ontario vqa wine.
“We are thrilled about the new vqa
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
logo as it embraces Ontario’s wine growing
region, climate and status as an exciting New
World wine destination. It evokes a feeling
of boldness and creativity, showcasing how
Ontario winemakers have forged their own
style. VQA Wines of Ontario are truly on the
cutting edge of cool,” said Sylvia Augaitis,
Executive Director of the Wine Marketing
Association of Ontario. “Ontario’s time to
shine is now and this new contemporary
vqa logo communicates confidence, building
on how Ontario vqa wines continue to
win international respect and acclaim. The
modernized vqa logo helps convey that story
to consumers.” The new logo should soon start
to appear on bottles of Ontario wine.
The wine and grape sector contributes $515
million to Ontario’s gdp and supports more
than 9,000 direct jobs. Grape production
from almost 500 Ontario growers is used to
make vqa wines, which had $374 million in
sales in 2018–19.
For this issue I have selected wines from
each of the three wine appellations of Ontario:
Niagara Peninsula, Lake Erie North Shore, and
Prince Edward County.
Winemaking at Its Finest
Merlot. Sauvignon Blanc. Carmenere.
Gewurztraminer. Malbec. Moscato.
Tempranillo. White Zinfandel. Grenache.
Semillon. Nebbiolo. Viognier.
Shiraz. Chardonnay. Pinot Noir.
Just to name a few ...
We have your flavour.
Come make it.
Alton Farms
EST A TE WINERY
HO HO HO
Merlot
POUR
THE
WINE TASTINGS, EVENTS,
TOURS, OUTDOOR PATIO,
WOOD-FIRED PIZZA OVEN
SARNIA
LAKE
HURON
7
21
Grand
Bend
Forest
Aberarder Line
21
402
London
77 km
5547 Aberarder Line, Plympton-Wyoming
519-899-2479 • altonfarmsestatewinery.com
SOMETHING
BIG IS HERE!
The new CREW Winery & Gallery is officially open! The tasting bar is
open 7 days a week, and a new galley menu launches mid-November.
Taste local wines, see original art, and take in our vineyard views.
Premium quality handcrafted wine
at an affordable price
150 Exeter Road, London 519-652-3998
somersetfinewines.com
OPEN TUES–FRI 10am–7pm & SAT 9am–4pm
Colchester Ridge Estate Winery
108 Essex County Road 50, Harrow ON
519-738-9800
@crewinery
40 | November/December 2019
Niagara Peninsula
Flat Rock Pink Twisted Rosé 2018
vintages #39974, $17.95
A blend of pinot noir, riesling and
gewürztraminer. Slightly off dry.
Juicy raspberry, red cherry and
strawberry fruits, white flowers,
spice and supported by intense
acidity to make this a deliciously
sippable rosé. Pair with a walnut
raspberry or tossed salad and
raspberry vinaigrette.
Reif Estate Meritage 2015
vintages #149005, $39.95
Using “Meritage” on
a bottle of Ontario
wine is a protected
VQA reserved term. Only VQA
approved wines can use this term.
Other protected terms include
Icewine, Late Harvest Wine, and
Estate Bottled.
A blend of 60% cabernet
sauvignon, 30% merlot and
10% cab franc, aged in French,
Hungarian and American oak
for 24 months. This is a big, full
bodied red wine. Ripe red fruit,
blackberry, and cedar. This is a
wine that is best served several
hours after decanting. Pair with
roast lamb and grilled vegetables.
Prince Edward County
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
Exultet Royal Road Recipe Pinot
Noir 2017
vintages #10755, $44.95
Located in Ontario’s northernmost
wine region, which has a shorter
growing season, limiting the type
of grapes that can be harvested.
Pinot noir and chardonnay
do well here and are excellent
reflections of cool climate wines.
“Royal Road Recipe” is named
after the road Exultet winery
is located on. This is an earthy
pinot noir. Dried leaves, forest
floor and turned soil and fresh
herbs. Red cherry
fruit. Medium body,
lively acidity, a style that craves
food! Pair with salmon, roasted
chicken or beef bourguignon.
Hillier Creek Gamay Noir 2017
vintages #372839, $16.95
Gamay has long been flying
under the radar here in
Ontario, and is another grape
that excels in cooler climates.
Hillier Creek’s gamay is fresh,
lively finish with mouthwatering
cherry and strawberry
notes. Light bodied and off dry
with 33 g/L. Pair with meat and
cheese charcuterie plates.
Lake Erie North Shore
Cooper’s Hawk Reserve
Cabernet/Merlot 2015
lcbo #328013, $18.95
A blend of cabernet sauvignon and
merlot grapes from vineyards
located in Canada’s most
southern wine growing region.
The warm 2015 summer
provided the roadmap to full
grape ripeness. Plum and red
fruits, fine structure, tannins
and acidity. Pair with tagliatelle
pasta with Bolognese sauce.
Cooper’s Hawk Cabernet Franc
2017
lcbo #585950, $19.95
Without question cab franc is
a grape that produces some of
Ontario’s finest red wines. This
one delivers. Ruby colour, red
and black fruits, light spice notes,
with a silky lingering finish. Pair
with roasted pork, burgers or
meatballs in tomato sauce.
GARY KILLOPS is a CAPS Certified
Sommelier who loves to talk, taste, and
write about wine. He shares his tasting
notes on EssexWineReview.com
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
November/December 2019 | 41
The BUZZ
Culinary Community Notes
New and Notable
London
We are excited at Eatdrink to present an expanded
Volume 8 of the Local Flavour Culinary Guide
(available in late November). The guide is now a
regional publication covering Southwest Ontario
from Windsor to Woodstock, up to Stratford and
over to Goderich. You can find it at many of the
locations that carry Eatdrink, as well as at Tourism
Information Centres throughout Ontario. As usual,
this complimentary guide is also available online.
As with all of our publications, it can be easily
read on your cellphone, tablet or desktop. We are
confident readers will be more pleased than ever
with this more extensive guide. localflavour.ca
Great things continue to unfold in London’s Old
East Village. A sense of inclusive community
is pervasive and has made the OEV a prime
destination for entrepreneurial innovation. Just
off the beaten path and in and around the walkable
Dundas Street corridor, the area is a hotspot for
culinary incubation and indie startups, is a magnet
for arts and culture, and has a thriving music
scene. Visitors are always looking for authentic
experiences when they travel, to connect with
their surroundings and live like the locals. Here
are just a few of the dynamic culinary businesses
in OEV: The Root Cellar Organic Café, 10 Eighteen
Café, Backroads Coffeehouse & Cakery, Willie’s
Café + Catering (at the Food Incubator), Momo’s
at the Market (and at the Food Incubator), Unique
Food Attitudes, Vietnam Restaurant, Spring
(YouYiCum) Chinese Restaurant, Wisdom Teashop
and Japanese Creperie, and Tony’s Pizza (a familyrun
Italian restaurant since 1961). There are other
fine food retailers such as The Hungary Butcher,
So Inviting Chinese Bakery (homemade Chinese
dumplings) and Artisan Bakery. There are craft
brewers Anderson Ales, London Brewing Co-op,
Powerhouse Brewery, Dundas & Son’s and the new
distillery Union Ten.
The Market at Western Fair District is a vibrant hub
in the heart of Old East Village bringing together
community, food artisans and startups. Two floors
and over 100 vendors make up The Market. The
Market operates on Saturday and Sundays and
features fine retailers such as The Village Meat
Shoppe, Loco Fields, The Butcher’s Wife, On the
Move Organics, Monforte Cheese, Petojo Food
& Catering (Indonesian cuisine), Harvest Pantry
(ferments, preserves, salts and tools) and Downie
Street Bakehouse. Food truck operators Bifana
Boys and Goodah Gastrotruck have popular booths
at The Market. themarketwfd.com
Executive Chef Katherine Jones and Chef Ryan
Wishak and their team at Growing Chefs!
continue to work hard to challenge the perceived
limitations of children and youth in the kitchen.
Upcoming fall classes include Chef Maryam Yaro
featuring the Food of Nigeria on November 27.
growingchefsontario.ca
Now Booking
Christmas
Parties!
Monday–Thursday: 11:30am–9pm
Friday: 11:30am–10pm
Saturday: 4pm–10pm
Sunday: 4pm–8pm
Gift
Certificates
Available
Reservations: 519-601-7799
1140 Southdale Road West, London
www.bocconcinilondon.ca
Free Parking
100% Local — from Our Farmers to Your Table
Hormone & Drug-Free
Ontario Beef, Pork, Bison, Lamb & Chicken
THE VILLAGE
MEAT SHOP
LOCAL - NATURAL - QUALITY
Now Accepting
Special Orders
for the Holidays!
WE ARE YOUR LONDON OUTLET FOR
• Metzger Meat Products • Lena’s Lamb
• Blanbrook Bison Farm • Little Sisters Chicken
• Glengyle Farm Organics
The Market at Western Fair District: SAT 8–3; SUN 10–2
226-376-4120 • www.thevillagemeatshop.ca
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
Christmas Tea at Eldon House, Saturday, December
7, 12:00, 1:30, and 3:00 p.m. seatings. Get in the
holiday spirit with live entertainment, tea and an
abundant menu of savouries and sweets before
touring Eldon House, which will be decorated for
Victorian Christmas. To register, visit eldonhouse.
ca/events or call 519-661-5169.
Have you been to Annies Chocolates? This familyowned
and operated business uses custom blends
of Dutch chocolate. Annies also makes sugar-free
chocolates, fudge, nuts, and offers London Ice
Cream and gift baskets. 1700 Hyde Park Road
(relocated from the Arva location) and 22425
Jefferies Road in Kilworth annieschocolates.com
One of our favourite food trailers is the organic
Mexican-inspired Ivanopoblano in the parking lot
of Lyn-Dys Health Food at 1016 Oxford St. E. Ivan
Santana-Barnes has been serving some of London’s
best Latin-inspired food for the last four years and
is relocating to the new Ivanopoblano Restaurant at
390 Wharncliffe Road this fall. ivanopoblano.com/
Each cookie, cupcake and custom cake is an original
work of art at Hey, Cupcake! The family-run
bakery, owned by Krista and Heath Trollope, caters
to a clientele with a whimsical and clever sense of
LOVE,
LOVE IT!
SO MANY
SHOPS.
THEMARKETWFD.COM
HALINA A.
GOOGLE REVIEW
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
taste and style and an appreciation of quality. Using
only the freshest and finest ingredients, every order
is baked from scratch and created with “a whole
lotta lovin.” They’re relocating to a solar-powered
shop in the new sustainable West 5 business and
residential development. Ask about their ongoing
campaign “Random Acts of Sweetness!” 1305
Riverbend Road, Suite 110, at Oxford Street West.
519-433-CAKE (2253), heycupcake.ca
For over 25 years, Garlic’s of London has been
a popular dining destination. Open seven days a
week, they welcome you to join them for an intimate
gathering, leisurely Sunday Brunch, business
meeting or special celebration. Garlic’s exemplifies
the transcendent synergy between authentic, chefdriven
culinary craftsmanship and meticulously
procured ingredients imbued with contemporary
twists on time-honoured traditions. Head Chef
Alex Martin has a thoughtful, respectful edge.
Food is made from scratch with inspiration from
local products, and elevated by freshly-harvested
seasonal ingredients. 481 Richmond Street, 519-
432-4092, garlicsoflondon.com
Congratulations to Publican Mark Serré of The
Morrissey House, who is celebrating a decade
in business. 361 Dundas St, 519-204-9220,
themorrisseyhouse.wordpress.com
Congratulations to Nutritionist Julie Kortekaas and
Chef Shayna Patterson of Rebel Remedy, who are
celebrating the third anniversary of the business.
Please support them during the construction of
Dundas Place. 242 Dundas Street, 519-709-2782,
rebelremedy.com
Willie’s Café continues to grow and thrive in the
London Food Incubator at 630 Dundas Street.
Ian Kennard has expanded the seating with more
tables, comfy chairs and a new cozy dining area.
There is inexpensive municipal parking off Queens
Ave., and customers are welcome to use the
entrance accessible from the parking lot. Willie’s
also provides catering services with a focus on
office/corporate lunches. 630 Dundas Street, 519-
433-9027, williescafeandcatering.com
Located at King and Talbot Streets, Origins Co.,
with a Grab & Go smoothie bar, is close to Covent
Garden Market and Budweiser Gardens. They offer
smoothies and smoothie bowls to ensure that
healthy ingredients fit into your busy lifestyle.
Ingredients are ethically harvested, non-GMO, and
organic where possible. They offer teas, espresso
and Bulletproof coffee. Open Monday–Saturday
8am–3pm, closed Sunday. 105 King Street, 519-601-
5855, originsco.com
From our farm to your table ...
Award winning hand crafted
alpine style cheese
Monday to Friday 9am–5pm
Saturday 9am–4pm
Stonetown Artisan Cheese
5021 Perth Line 8
St. Marys ON
Fresh Cheese Curds
Cheese Tastings
Gift Baskets &
Gift Boxes
Cheese Trays
Fondue & Raclette
519-229-6856
info@stonetowncheese.com
www.stonetowncheese.com
Join us for Londonlicious!
hand crafted sandwiches
weekend brunch
homestyle lunch & dinner
craft beer, wine & cocktails
731 Wellington Street
between Oxford & Piccadilly
519-860-9424
wichiswich.ca
Traditional, Real Food.
Real Good!
Try our world famous Goulash Soup, Cabbage Rolls,
Schnitzel, Chicken Paprikash, a Combination Platter, or
many other mouthwatering Hungarian dishes.
Gift
Certificates
Available
519-652-9696
aranka.ca
aranka.csarda arankacsarda
7447 Longwoods Road, London
Our beautiful country setting is on Longwoods, the continuation of
Wharncliffe Road, just outside Lambeth
LUNCH Wed to Fri 11:30–2:30
DINNER from 5pm daily
432 Richmond Street
at Carling • London
ALWAYS
a 3-course prix fixe
menu option
www.davidsbistro.ca
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
The landmark Budapest Restaurant has been
operating since 1956, and its current owners Eduard
Nagy and Anita Tasonyi are 20-year veterans
of the establishment. Protégés of the legendary
restaurateur Marika Hayek, they continue to delight
clients by offering authentic Hungarian specialties in
this classic old-world setting. Confident, expansive
cooking keeps traditional Hungarian flavours
front and centre. Think classic offerings flavoured
predominantly by woodsy, smoky Hungarian paprika
— dishes that are precisely prepared and expertly
flavoured. Located downtown in the hotel district, the
restaurant is a short walk from the Delta Armouries,
DoubleTree by Hilton and RBC Place London.
Banquet room available. 348 Dundas Street, 519-439-
3431, budapestrestaurant.net
Richmond Row’s Bombay Bistro is a restaurant and
a cultural hub offering “a culinary tour de force of
India’s cuisine,” as well as pick-up tiffin service and
meal plans. They take authentic flavours from their
home country and push them beyond expectations
in their own unique and intimate way. 346 Richmond
St., 519-601-8850, bombaybistro.ca
Locomotive Espresso, a locally-owned espresso
bar, is growing the five-year-old business, with the
addition of a location this coming Februrary at 350
Ridout Street South (at Chester St.) in the Old South
neighbourhood. Locomotive Espresso South will
be brewing espresso-based beverages using Mod Bar/
La Marzocco equipment, an under-counter system
with above counter taps. The modular formation
will create an open bar look, and the design offers
excellent interaction and engagement with customers.
“Old South is a creative and passionate
community where we can expand our brand and
employment opportunities while offering a sense
of a community place with exceptional products,”
said owner Jill Wright. Staying super local and
a business incubator has been a priority for
Locomotive Espresso. They were one of the first
retailers to offer such local brands as Booch, Nuts
for Cheese, Bliss Bars, The New New Age, and Helm
Baked. They support other established businesses
like Willie’s Café, North Moore Catering, The
Artisan Bakery, The Tea Haus and Momo’s At The
Market. locomotiveespresso.com
Alchemy Bake Shoppe creates fun and interesting
pastries influenced by nostalgic treats and current
baking trends. With a production facility in London,
Alchemy offers breakfast pastries, cookies and
squares, cakes and a variety of savoury baking
including quiche and pies. Find them Saturdays
at the Covent Garden Farmers’ Market and on
Sundays at Stratford’s Slow Food Market (10
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
Downie St. indoor location). Follow them —
instagram.com/alchemybakeshoppe — or on
Facebook for events or to place an order directly.
Jess Jazey-Spoelstra and Chef Andrew Wolwowicz’s
stylish Craft Farmacy will celebrate a second
anniversary in December and continue to “dispense
deliciousness.” The owners are committed to
sourcing and celebrating local Ontario food. The
Feast ON-certified restaurant’s ever-changing
menus focus on craft beer, craft cocktails, a large
selection of fresh oysters, and inspired rustic farmto-table
food. Be sure to check out the Sunday
Brunch prix fixe menu. 449 Wharncliffe Rd, just
north of Baseline, 519-914-2699, craftfarmacy.ca
Reverie, the acclaimed and unique 12-seat tasting
menu restaurant, continues to receive accolades. Chef
features a modernist Canadian-focused five-course
menu every night from Thursday to Sunday. Owners
Jerrah Revilles and Chef Brian Sua-an recently
celebrated Reverie’s second anniversary. They offer
an intimate, immersive, innovative experience with a
combination of exciting platings and vibrant flavours.
Wine pairings are optional but highly recommended.
Reservations required. 208 Piccadilly Street just west
of Richmond, 519-914-6595, reverierestaurant.ca
The Western Fair Association (WFA) has
announced its future business strategy, which
will bring hundreds of jobs, economic prosperity,
innovation and growth to London and region. The
new initiative, designated The Grove at Western
Fair District (The Grove), will help to develop
the next generation of Canadian agri-business
entrepreneurs in London, Ontario. By repurposing
buildings on the WFA site, The Grove will help
new and existing agri-businesses to incubate,
accelerate, educate and connect. The Grove will
continue the legacy of the WFA’s deep agricultural
roots while keeping innovative for future growth.
www.TheGroveWFD.com
The Middlesex London Food Policy Council
(MLFPC) will make its new home at The Grove. The
MLFPC is the organization tasked with identifying
challenges and proposing innovative solutions
to develop a healthy, sustainable, resilient and
equitable local food system. mlfpc.ca
The first major tenant of The Grove is LiveFit,
a provider of prepared meals that are delivered
directly to consumers. livefitfood.ca
It’s sustainable, and it’s traceable right back to the
farmers that grew it. London Brewing is proud to
be the first Craft Malt Certified brewery in Canada.
“This is really important to us but it’s as important
to local farmers that we can raise the profile of
what they are doing,” explains Aaron Lawrence,
Make HAPPINESS
a part of your day.
Featuring
Creative Menus
from Chefs
Erryn Shephard
&
Ben Sandwith
Seasonal Hours
Reservations Recommended
Always Available
for Caterings!
Book NOW for your
Christmas Lunch or Dinner Party
& Reserve for New Year’s Eve!
519.238.6224
42 Ontario St. S., Grand Bend
www.finearestaurant.com
SUNDAY BRUNCH
11am−2pm
Heather's
Incomparable Journeys
Travel the slow roads to charming tidy towns, music-filled pubs,
ancient tombs & castles. Enjoy leisurely walks, gourmet food &
welcoming country hotels. You won’t find another itinerary like it.
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& Tatras Mountains in Poland, the capitals of Baltic States,
and St. Petersburg, Imperial Capital of Russia.
Explore the splendour of Lake Como, Undiscovered Umbria, Amazing
Amalfi Coast, Hilltowns of Calabria, and Florence & Rome.
For any and all of your travel needs
Heather Wilkinson
Regional Office: 31 Nottinghill Gate, Suite 203, Oakville
TICO#50013851
Open 7 Days a Week
Mon/Tues 11:30-10, Wed/Thurs 11:30-11, Fri/Sat 11:30-12, Sun 11-10
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
head brewer and a founding worker-owner of the
worker-owned and operated brewery. “The beer
we are brewing really is an agricultural product
and it’s the necessary trend of craft beer to use
local ingredients if it is to be a truly local beer.
londonbrewing.ca
The Bun offers authentic Sichuan-style Chinese
street food, rejecting improvised Canadian-Chinese
food dishes. The menu is straightforward , you
order at the counter, and waiters deliver food to
the long communal tables. Start by trying the
pulled pork sandwich or Sichuan-style wontons
with special chili house sauce. There is a delicious
sour and spicy Sichuan shredded potato dish and
blistered tiger skin peppers (the name comes from
the color of the peppers after they’ve been seared in
a hot wok, which resembles a tiger’s coat). There is
a variety of good noodle dishes. 196 Dundas Street,
519-567-5741.
Rain & Sunny Chinese Noodles, a Hunan-inspired
noodle house has opened at 186 King St., northeast
of Five Fortune House, in the premises of the
former King’s Diner.
Some of the most consistent dim sum is to be found
at London Chinese Restaurant, located in the strip
mall at Oxford and Wonderland. It is served all
day. Wing’s Kitchen at Highbury near Cheapside
also serves some of the best dim sum in the city.
We recommend you go there from Thursday to
Sunday for the finest experience. Golden Dragon in
Byron is known for the best crisp, dark-golden skin
Peking duck. Ordering the barbeque duck or Peking
duck in advance is always recommended. The
upscale Congee House is a favourite, reliably good
and known for its Cantonese dishes and congee.
Five Fortune Culture House located downtown at
Richmond and King is well known for its Yunnanstyle
home cooking with Sichuan and Guizhou
influences.
Thursday nights are now a Jazz Night at Michael’s
On The Thames, with a different jazz ensemble
featured each week. Join Michael’s for a glass of
wine, appetizers or dinner BUT be sure to join them
for the jazz on Thursdays! 1 York St, London, 519-
672-0111, michaelsonthethames.com
Wich is Wich has relocated to Wellington St., south
of Oxford (once Willie’s Café), serving the same
great food (global flavours, exotic ingredients,
and textural contrasts). Still, they’re not just
serving gourmet sandwiches. Chef Josh Sawyer
calls it “homestyle,” and they’re taking comfort
food to a whole new level. Locally-sourced
whenever possible, meals are crafted from hearty
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
artisan bread, slow-roasted meats, garden-fresh
vegetables, gourmet spreads and sauces. Wich
is Wich’s weekend brunch (served both days),
lunch, and dinner menus (Tuesday–Saturday)
can be paired with great wines, local beers and
cocktails. They also offer catering, grab-and-go. 731
Wellington St., 519-860-9424, wichiswich.ca
Stratford
Nosh Mondays at The Red Rabbit are a way of
celebrating each season, allowing each chef to let
their talent and creativity shine. It is also a culinary
adventure. Join them Mondays from November to
April. Make your reservations early. 64 Wellington
Street, Stratford, 519-305-6464, redrabbitresto.com
We continue to hear great things about the new
Braai House, which recently opened above
Stratford’s iconic Keystone Alley. The menu,
created by executive chef and owner Anthony
Jordaan, highlights the amazing flavours that come
off a South African-style braai, a wood-fired BBQ/
grill. 34 Brunswick St, Stratford, 519-271-5647,
braaihouse.ca
Find the unexpected and latest trends in home
décor, culinary must-haves and gift giving in
Stratford. Explore the Stratford Christmas Trail to
capture the spirit of giving and the joy of checking
items off the list. You’ll discover unique and
individual gift ideas when you stroll the festive
streets. It is easy to kick off your holiday shopping
with six gifts for just $30(+HST) and a choice of 25
stops. Purchase your pass at Stratford Tourism,
Village Craft and Candle in St. Marys, or The British
Touch in Shakespeare — before December 20.
Visit the highly anticipated Christmas Open
Houses at Rheo Thompson Candies (November 3),
Bradshaws (November 8) and Wills & Prior “Deck
the Halls” event (November 9) to discover the first
of the holiday trends, flavours and gifts. Enjoy the
holiday splendour at The Parlour Christmas Open
House and artisan creations at Treasures (both
November 24). The Milky Whey Fine Cheese Shop
marks ten years in Stratford with tastings (Dec. 5).
Sip wine and shop at the Start the Holidays Art
Show and Sale, at Factory163 where the building’s
heritage character complements the artisanal
creativity (Dec. 7–8).
Stratford Chefs School invites you to an array of
culinary classes for the home cook. Learn to make
an amazing home charcuterie board (November 18),
cooking with cannabis (November 25), and much
more. Stratford Chefs School Dinners, prepared by
students, take place Tuesday through Saturday at
the new Stratford Chefs School Kitchens. Student-
Now Accepting
Holiday Party
Bookings!
Gift
Certificates
Available
Chef/Owner Mark Graham’s
fresh, creative, locallysourced
menus extend
to full-service catering
to Strathroy, London &
area. Call for a quote!
The heart of
Downtown
Strathroy
Voted #1 Best Burger
in Strathroy
2018 Spirit Awards
Winner
Historic Post Office & Customs Building
71 Frank St, Strathroy • 519-205-1500
www.clocktower-inn.com
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
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Lovingly Crafted with Skill & Heart
Owners Tabitha & Dave
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Open Until
Christmas Eve
For Holiday
Orders
Natural Ingredients
from Local Vendors
Baked with Butter
from Scratch In House
900 Oxford Street East at Gammage
519-601-1651
created menus as well as international inspirations
are paired with wine and can be reserved online.
stratfordchef.com
Junction 56 Distillery’s spirited tours introduce
you to the making of craft spirits, and provide and
opportunity to taste and ask questions of the crafters
while stocking the holiday bar. (Saturdays at 11 am)
45 Cambria St., 519-305-5535, junction56.ca
The Milky Whey Fine Cheese shop presents
“Creating the Perfect Holiday Charcuterie Board
Workshop”, including refreshments (Nov 14 & 27)
and Pairing Quebec cheese and Cider (Nov. 16).
Take a special friend to Afternoon Tea with Santa
(Dec. 8) at The Bruce. Prepare for the season with
Gingerbread House Decorating (Nov. 30 and Dec.
6), a Holiday Baking class (Dec. 14) and Cookie
Decorating (Dec. 22), all perfect for sharing the
children’s wish lists. thebruce.ca
A Very Victorian Christmas returns to Market
Square (November 24), for a festive and vibrant
outdoor market in the heart of Stratford’s heritage
downtown that includes art, music, Santa, and
children’s crafts. Don’t miss the magical carousel.
Mini markets will be featured on Saturdays
November 30, December 7 and 14, complete with a
visit from Santa.
Breakfast with Santa at The Parlour (December 8).
Here’s a family favourite adding to the excitement
and fun of the holidays and kids under ten eat free.
Santa’s Parade of Lights, Sunday, November
24 — one of Southern Ontario’s best Santa Claus
parades. Leaving Lakeside Drive and making its way
through uptown Stratford, bringing Santa to City
Hall. There are prizes for the best illuminated and
best decorated floats, free hot chocolate, hotdogs
and donuts at City Hall, music and carol singing,
the lighting of the City Hall Christmas Tree, and
decorations by Santa.
Home for the Holidays Hanukkah Party with the
Stratford Chefs School, December 15. A holiday
party that highlights the Jewish Festival of Lights,
Hanukkah. Celebrate your family’s long-held
traditions, or simply join the fun and learn more
about this festival. Everyone is welcome. Hanukkah
Sameach! $20/person (children 12 and under free).
Congratulations to Madelyn’s Diner, which recently
celebrated 34 years in business. Madelyn’s Diner
would not be the business it is today without
Madelyn, whose daughter reminds us “was a pioneer
in Stratford, as a female business owner, providing
good food, sourced-locally, long before that was a
movement.” Madelyn’s mission statement reads:“It’s
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
November/December 2019 | 49
not about making money … It’s about feeding the
world, with good food, good service and good fun.”
377 Huron Street, 519-273-5296, madelynsdiner.ca
The Mill Stone Restaurant & Bar features Chef
Jeremy Hayton’s seasonally-inspired lunch,
dinner and late-night menus using many locally
procured ingredients. Lao pop-up snack bar is now
the last Saturday of every month. Serving up Laos
cuisine and regionally-inspired cocktails until the
wee hours. Followed up with Sunday Laos snack
features on the regular lunch menu. 30 Ontario St.,
519-273-5886, themillstone.ca
Revival House has seen some notable changes. It
now offers an exciting new menu crafted by new
Chef Andrew Tutt. With the colder weather, they’re
also re-opening The Belfry, the perfect spot for cozy
winter meals and drinks.
A number of amazing musical acts will soon
grace the Revival House stage: Nashville-based
Canadian multi-instrumentalist and singersongwriter
Linda McRae celebrates the release of
her new record, Going To the Well, on November
14. London, Ontario vocalist Megan Schroder
brings her classic country Patsy Cline tribute
on November 15. Award-winning vocalist and
songwriter Michael Bell presents an all-star band
with The Bowie Lives, a sensational Bowie tribute,
on November 16.
On Sunday, December 15, from 3–5 pm, Revival
House hosts the Annual Rhéo Thompson Candies’
Scotch and Chocolate Pairing. Individually
wonderful, brilliant when paired. Special guest
certified whisky sommelier Steve Rae creates
a whisky journey through Scotland, touching
the different regions and flavour profiles. Rhéo
Thompson Candies’ chocolatier Christine Chessell
has selected a variety of chocolates to compliment
the scotches. Enjoy this excellent combination of
flavours for $60 per person (chocolate-only tickets
are available for $25): rheothompson.com
“Reasonably priced, fresh, well-executed
Ethiopian cuisine ...” — Bryan Lavery, Eatdrink
Book Your
Holiday
Parties Now!
Gift
Certificates
Available
More than just a Coffee Shop!
Customized Gift Baskets
Baking Orders
(Keto & Gluten-free options)
Gift Certificates
Gift Baskets
The annual Bradshaw’s Holiday High Tea at
Revival House is offering two seatings November
24, featuring three stunning seasonal loose-leaf teas
from Sloane Fine Tea. Enjoy a special selection of
holiday treats created just for this event by Revival
House, and beautiful classical holiday-themed music
by the talented musicians of the Stratford Symphony
Orchestra. It’s a perfect way to celebrate the holidays
with friends and relatives! bradshaws.ca
Approaching the 200th anniversary of Beethoven’s
death, the Stratford Symphony Orchestra presents
• FAMILY FRIENDLY
• Vegetarian &
Vegan Options
• Takeout
• Catering
ADDIS ABABA Restaurant
Tuesday–Sunday 11am–10pm by reservation
Closed Monday
465 Dundas Street 519 433-4222
www.tgsaddisababarestaurant.com
PAT
OPEN
Catering
&
Private Event
Space
Christmas Baking
Pour Over Coffee Bar Open 7 Days a Week
creambeanerycafe.com
New 2nd Location!
22469 Adelaide Rd, Mt Brydges
226-490-0301
825 Southdale Rd W, London
519-652-1607
Book
Your Holiday
& Christmas
Parties!
Gift Certificates Available
Your love of all things Italian begins at
Gift Cards
Available
Book Now for Your Holiday Party!
519-652-7659 • HWY 401 & 4 • pastosgrill.com
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
Legend and Legacy with Sarah Pratt performing
Violin Concerto in D (November 23).
Share the tradition of the Messiah performed with
orchestra and presented by Stratford Concert
Choir, St. Joseph›s Church (December 7). Special
guests The Blyth Festival Singers.
Enjoy the intimacy of a Christmas Sing-Along
(December 13), presented by Stratford Symphony
Orchestra at the Falstaff Family Centre.
Around the Region
St. Marys Winterlights Display is on between
November 15 and January 5. Hop aboard horsedrawn
carriages to ride through the park and
admire beautiful festive light displays. The display
opens following the Santa Claus Parade and will be
lit nightly for all to enjoy.
Love chocolate? Indulge in exquisite chocolate from
Woodstock’s Habitual Chocolate — a bean-tobar
chocolate company. Cocoa beans are bought
from small family farms all over the world, and
flavourful dark chocolates are handcrafted in
the store. Choose from an assortment of culinary
chocolate, dark chocolates and custom chocolates
crafted for special occasions. Soy-free, nut-free,
gluten and vegan options are also available.
389 Dundas Street, Woodstock, 519-535-1341,
habitualchocolate.com
Congratulations to Dave and Michelle Schonberger
of Tree to Table by Ottercreek Woodworks who
recently won Best Culinary Experience in Ontario.
Within their first year of operation they also won
2018 Ontario’s Southwest Innovative Experience
of the Year. ottercreekwoodworks.myshopify.com/
products/from-tree-to-table-workshop
Christmas Movie Trivia at Upper Thames Brewing
Co. Test your knowledge of holiday classics while
sipping on craft beer at the brewery on November
27. upperthamesbrewing.ca
Sollgood Holiday Social Market: Hit up downtown
Ingersoll for a unique, curated artisan market of
local goods, handmade products and tasty treats.
sollgoodsocialmarket.com
Brewed Exploration at Upper Thames Brewing Co.:
Step behind the bar to learn about brewing from
grain to glass and even bottle your own beer on
December 7th. upperthamesbrewing.ca
A Taste of Norwich Township: A food and drink
event featuring the best of Norwich Township on
November 31st. Call 519-476-6172 for tickets.
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
Enjoy an Old Fashion Christmas at Snyders Family
Farm. Don’t miss out on the holiday farm fun at
Snyders, including s’mores, fresh-cut trees, bakery
treats, a Christmas hayride, meet n’ greet with
Santa and more open weekends November 23–
December 15th. snydersfamilyfarm.com
Celebrate New Year’s Eve with The Beatles at The
Elm Hurst Inn, with a Beatles tribute band and a
delicious, festive buffet. ElmHurstInn.com
Oxford County chocolatier Cindy Walker is a
small-town shop owner, a certified tea sommelier,
and “The Queen of Ganache.” As owner and head
chocolatier of Ingersoll’s Chocolatea, Cindy crafts
hand-cut chocolates with unique, creative flavours
and sources a handpicked selection of teas. In her
upcoming Truffle Camp workshops (November 16,
December 7 & 18), participants take on the role of
chocolatier and step behind the counter to craft
a dozen of their own delicious, multi-flavoured
truffles alongside Cindy. 38 King Street East,
Ingersoll, 519-495-6020, chocolatea.ca
The grand opening of the 55,000-square-foot
Eataly Toronto, the first in Canada, is set to open in
the Manulife Centre on November 13. The food hall
November/December 2019 | 51
and culinary emporium comprises three floors,
and is introducing over 1,000 Italian products new
to Canada while showcasing Italy’s 20 regions.
Pasta-makers, pizza-makers using specialty-made
ovens, a Macelleria (butcher shop), a seafood
restaurant and an Enoteca where one can have
an aperitivo are among the offerings. If that isn’t
enough, there is a bakery, formaggi (cheese) and
salumi counter with 400-plus varieties of Italian
and local cheese, a gelato lab, a chocolate and
pasticceria (pastry counter), an on-site brewery, a
marketplace and a culinary classroom. An all-day
Grand Café serving all types of Italian-style coffees
and alcoholic beverages.
We want your BUZZ!
Do you have culinary news or upcoming events
that you’d like us to share?
Every issue, Eatdrink reaches more than
50,000 readers across Southwestern Ontario
in print, and thousands more online.
Get in touch with us at editor@eatdrink.ca
Submission deadline for the next issue: December 5
Far Out ...
but we like it that way!
Come for the planes and fall in love with the food!
Book Your Unique Holiday Party NOW!
Enjoy the airport
runway view!
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2530 Blair Blvd, London
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eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
a
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eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
November/December 2019 | 53
Theatre
Supercalifragilisticexpialidocious!
Mary Poppins is at The Grand for the Holidays
By JANE ANTONIAK
Imagine a five-year-old boy taken by his
grandmother to see his first live theatre
performance. It’s a musical extravaganza
at The Grand Theatre about the life of
Barnum — of circus fame. The child sits in
awe. His life in theatre has begun.
Imagine a four-year-old girl taken by her
mother to see her first live theatre performance
in 2019. It’s a musical extravaganza at The
Grand Theatre with her uncle as Bert, in Mary
Poppins this holiday season.
Her uncle was that five-year old boy. Mark
Uhre’s theatre career comes full circle November
26 to December 29 when he steps onto the
stage to perform for the next generation of
theatregoers, including his niece.
“It’s a great feeling to return to the place
where everything started. Growing up I always
loved coming
downtown during
the holidays,”
says Uhre in an
interview with
Eatdrink. “Mary
Poppins will be
my niece’s first
show so we are all
excited and pretty
emotional, as it is a
special story from
our own childhood,”
he adds.
Uhre’s first role was at the Grand in 1992. He
was 12 years old when he played in A Christmas
Carol, which starred the legendary Canadian
actor William Hutt. While studying at Beal
Secondary School in London in 1998, Uhre
starred as Tony in a High School Production of
West Side Story. “That was it. I started focusing
on theatre and music as a career, rather than
visual art. The Grand has been a huge part of
my development as an artist.”
And what a career! Uhre made it to
Broadway as Enjolras in Les Misérables in
2016. He says he has been very fortunate to
play major stages here in Canada, including
Stratford and Shaw, as well as in the U.K.
“When Broadway came along it was an
amazing surprise and was a really special time.
It also put a great deal into perspective for
Mark Uhre stars as Bert
in Mary Poppins, at The
Grand Theatre. He’s also
an artist; here he stands
in front of one of his
paintings (hanging in
Revel Cafe in Stratford).
54 | November/December 2019
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
Disney anD C a m e r o n
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me artistically. Great artistic growth and
experience can happen anywhere. My time
on Broadway is equally matched artistically
by every theatre I have worked in. They
have all been equal in providing artistic
growth,” says Uhre.
Aside from acting, he is also an
illustrator and a painter. He shared with
us a photo of one of his paintings that
hangs in Revel Coffee House in Stratford.
Uhre says the words in the painting spell
out “Use your Imagination” something he
says we all need to do more of, no matter
what age.
So, it’s apt that Uhre returns home to
London for the holidays and Mary Poppins,
a story he and his family love. He says, of
all the great stages he’s been honoured to
play upon, that if he had to choose one
favourite it would be the Grand. “It really
is where it all started for me as a little kid.
So, to return to London and create theatre
with fellow artists on the stage where I
saw my first professional show at five and
then performed as a little kid is a pretty
amazing thing.”
Regional Theatre Holiday Round-up
A Christmas Carol
Theatre Sarnia, November 22–30
a really Retro CROONER Christmas
Created by Rick Kish
Port Stanley Festival Theatre, December 14,
2 p.m. and 8 p.m.
Huron Country Playhouse II, November 30,
2:00 p.m. and 7:30 p.m.
Wonderful World of Christmas: Comeback
Huron Country Playhouse, Saturday, December
14, 2:00 p.m. and 7:30 p.m.
A Huron County Christmas Carol
Adapted by Gil Garratt, songs by John Powers
Blyth Festival Theatre, November 28–December 22
A Country Supper is offered at the Blyth Legion on
November 29, November 30, December 6, and
December 13, hosted by a local church or Blyth
Legion Ladies’ Auxiliary.
JANE ANTONIAK is a regular contributor to Eatdrink. She
is also Manager, Communications & Media Relations, at King’s
University College in London.
56 | November/December 2019
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
Books
A Gourmet Life
Save Me the Plums: My Gourmet Memoir
by Ruth Reichl
Review by DARIN COOK
Iwas working on the frontlines in a
bookstore when in 2009 Gourmet
magazine had its last stand. I had
been searching for the latest issue,
for a customer, when the staff member who
stocked the magazines informed me that
Gourmet was defunct — one month here,
the next month not. I was surprised that an
established magazine with staunch readership
could fold simply because the internet had
become a major player as a publishing option.
A decade after that demise Ruth Reichl, the
editor at the time, has published Save Me the
Plums: My Gourmet Memoir (Random House,
2019). It recounts her rise to fame in the
magazine world, even as Gourmet was on the
brink of its fall.
There are perhaps only a handful of
people who have had more of an impact
on culinary writing than Reichl; the upper
ranks managing high-end magazines under
the Condé Nast umbrella were well aware of
her literary reputation when they offered
her the editor-in-chief position at the
prestigious epicurean magazine. Reichl had
adored Gourmet as a
child and credits her
love of food, in part,
to early editions she
had thumbed through
in used-book stores in
her youth. When she
became a writer she
desperately wanted to be
a contributor. Although
she never did — it
became too prissy and
stodgy for her — she
somehow found herself
being asked to take
charge of it at a time
when it was
in need of
revitalization.
Reichl would
be coming
off her sixyear
stint
as The New
York Times
restaurant
critic,
and she
justifies
the change in
profession by recognizing the time
it would give her to have dinner with her
husband and so — time she had lost eating
at restaurants alone all those years. Adding
the perks of a clothing allowance and an office
with a private bathroom made it a hard offer
to pass up.
Save Me the Plums provides glimpses into
her personal life, like those more-frequent,
home-cooked meals that her son delighted
in, but it mainly focuses on her professional
relationships with
publishers, editors,
artists, writers,
photographers, test
kitchen cooks, and
marketers, while at the
helm of Gourmet. The
history of what went
on during her tenure is
directly linked to how
the corporate bigwigs
moved staff around
or let them go in a
flurry, forcing Reichl to
Author Ruth Reichl
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
November/December 2019 | 57
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manage HR issues that were not her forte.
Readers of the book will not be surprised
by the story’s unfortunate conclusion, so
Reichl presumably focuses on her colleagues
(whether she liked working with them or
not) to pay homage to their handiwork
in regenerating an iconic magazine for a
time. Even though she was dealing with the
business of magazine editing more than
tasting dishes or writing about them, there
are still the requisite delicious descriptions
she is known for from her previous books:
taste testing a chocolate cake in the Gourmet
test kitchen; sharing the Spicy Chinese Noodle
recipe she makes for her son; describing bread
from a neighbourhood bakery by writing it
was “like tasting history, like savoring the
first loaf of bread ever baked.” It is a Reichl
memoir, after all, and she always comes back
to the food.
I enjoy memoirs that are narrower in
scope, not sprawling narratives from cradle
to grave. Reichl’s career as a writer has many
layers and Save Me the Plums covers a decade
of her life when Gourmet became one more
notch in her literary belt. Her contributions to
Gourmet were transformational: she embraced
the changes surfacing in the restaurant
scene, tackled the rise of celebrity chefs by
putting them on the cover in rock star poses
(photographed by Matthew Rolston who did
Rolling Stone covers), and commissioned
cutting-edge articles from authors like David
Foster Wallace. Amid these successes, what
is most heartbreaking about her story is how
Condé Nast shut Gourmet down when the high
times of the print magazine world crumbled
under the pressure of the internet. Reichl
had to live through it and she reveals how the
extraction of something that had touched her
personal life and shaped her career so much
was devastating. For Reichl, “A world without
Gourmet was unimaginable.” She could not
move forward by publishing more issues,
but only be inspired by her collection of back
issues, in the same way they had stirred her as
a child.
DARIN COOK is a Chatham-based freelance writer
who keeps himself well-read and well-fed by visiting the
bookstores and restaurants of London.
58 | November/December 2019
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
Recipes
Set for the Holidays
Recipes to Bring Comfort andJoy
by Anna Olson
Review and Recipe Selections by TRACY TURLIN
Set for the Holidays with Anna Olson:
Recipes to Bring Comfort and Joy:
From Starters to Sweets, for the Festive
Season and Almost Every Day (2018;
Appetite by Random House) is a soothing
trip through a beautiful world of confident
entertaining, elegant décor, and food that’s
almost too pretty to eat.
Anna Olson is an award winning pastry
chef, author, and television personality. Born
in Atlanta, Georgia, she spent her childhood
in Toronto and now calls the Niagara region
her home. She’s become the sunny face of
Canadian baking through her online and TV
presence and her collection of cookbooks.
Chef Olson’s ideas of entertaining at the
holidays can be summed up by the word
“sparkle” and she tells us that “you can’t have
sparkle if you have stress.”
Most of the dishes in Set for the Holidays
are decidedly festive, but they’d work as well
for any other celebration. There’s a Lemon
Meringue Yule Log recipe that’s going to
become Lemon Meringue Tracy’s Birthday
Cake for at least a few years.
Given Olson’s fame as a pastry chef, it’s no
surprise that half of this book
is devoted to the sweet side of
the holidays. That still leaves
half a book of savoury dishes
that somehow manage to look
as delicate and delicious as the
sweets. There are multi-option
menus for both Thanksgiving
and Christmas, as well as
sophisticated New Year’s Eve
nibbles, and brunch for the
whole family.
Vegan and vegetarian
options are clearly marked
but my favourite icon was
the “particularly gift-able”
symbol that marks recipes
that are perfect
for creating
homemade
kitchen
gifts. There’s
nothing like
wowing
your guests
with a great
meal, then
sending
them
home
with a jar
of the magical ingredient.
I also appreciated the chapter on leftovers.
Olson gives us recipes for comforting one-pot
meals to transform your holiday leftovers and
warm you through the rest of the cold season.
I have nearly given up on serving turkey,
making the easier choice of chicken or ham
for my holiday feasts. I changed my mind
when I saw Marinated Boneless Turkey
Breast Roast with Panchetta Gravy. If that
title alone wasn’t enough to sway me, the
author suggests a gluten-free option that
substitutes Caramelized
Onion Cream for the gravy.
You need to follow two other
(easy) recipes to get this
exact sauce, but I will tell you
that it combines two cups
of caramelized onions, one
cup of whipping cream, and
one ounce of brandy. Holiday
decadence in the most
elegant way.
Since turkey dinner isn’t
complete without dressing,
there are Sausage Dressing
Squares. Basically these are
Anna Olson
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
November/December 2019 | 59
Thanksgiving dinner in a finger food. With or
without the bacon they are a perfect appetizer,
or a dangerously addictive television snack.
An Anna Olson book review wouldn’t be
complete without a pastry and the Kouign
Amann might be the best pastry I had never
heard of. Olson describes it as resembling “a
croissant that is a little more like puff pastry,
with a caramelized sugar crust and soft sweet
interior.” It fits all my preconceived notions
of French pastry: it’s fussy, requires a lot of
patience and is best eaten fresh from the oven.
I will probably drive my family crazy trying to
master this dish.
Set for the Holidays makes you feel like you
can have all this sparkle without any stress.
That’s something to celebrate all year long.
TRACY TURLIN is a freelance writer and dog groomer
in London. Reach her at tracyturlin@gmail.com
Excerpted from Set for the Holidays with Anna Olson by
Anna Olson. Copyright © 2019 Anna Olson. Photography
by Janis Nicolay. Published by Appetite by Random
House®, a division of Penguin Random House Canada
Limited. Reproduced by arrangement with the Publisher.
All rights reserved.
Marinated Boneless Turkey Breast Roast
with pancetta gravy
Serves 6 to 8 (with enough for leftovers)
Prep: 20 minutes, plus marinating
Cook: 105 minutes.
This marinated turkey recipe, which I call my
turketta, strays from the traditional whole
turkey (page 93). It’s a nice option
if you have a small kitchen or if
your family insists on turkey for
Thanksgiving and Christmas, but you’d
rather not serve the same menu twice.
Porchetta is a boneless herb-rubbed
pork loin that is roasted until the skin
crisps up. Here I use similar flavours
but with turkey. For a fully gluten-free
option, substitute Caramelized Onion
Cream (page 120) for the gravy.
MAKE AHEAD
You should start marinating the turkey at least
3 hours (up to a maximum of 24 hours) before it
is to go in the oven. Any cooked leftovers (hello,
turkey sandwich!) will keep, well wrapped, for
up to 4 days in the fridge and up to 3 months in
the freezer. Thaw in the fridge before using.
TURKEY
¼ cup (60 mL) extra virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, peeled and chopped
3 cloves garlic, chopped
Finely grated zest of 1 lemon
8 large fresh sage leaves
2 Tbsp (30 mL) fresh thyme leaves
2 tsp salt, plus extra for the turkey
1 tsp chili flakes
½ tsp black pepper, plus extra for the
turkey
2 turkey breasts, each about 2¼ lb/1
kg
3 Tbsp (45 g) butter
GRAVY
1 cup (125 g) uncooked diced pancetta
3 Tbsp (45 g) combined pancetta fat and butter
¼ cup (35 g) all-purpose flour
2 cups (500 mL) low-sodium or no-salt-added
chicken or turkey stock
60 | November/December 2019
1 It’s best to prepare the marinade right before using it.
Purée the oil, onion, garlic, lemon zest, sage, thyme,
salt, chili flakes and pepper in a food processor or
blender until evenly combined.
2 Remove and discard any bones from the turkey breasts.
Place the turkey, skin side down, in a casserole dish or
other pan. Set aside ¼ cup (60 mL) of the marinade for
the sauce and pour the rest over the turkey. Cover the
dish with plastic wrap and let the turkey marinate in
the fridge for at least 3 hours, or up to a maximum of
24 hours.
3 Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Using butcher’s
twine, tie the turkey breasts together, skin sides facing
out, leaving as much of the marinade between them as
possible. Pat the outside of the breasts with paper towels
and transfer to a roasting pan. Rub the turkey skin with
butter and season lightly with salt and pepper.
4 Roast the turkey, uncovered, for 20 minutes. Reduce
the oven temperature to 350°F (180°C) and roast for 60
to 70 minutes more, basting the turkey with the juices
often, until the centre of each breast registers 170°F
(77°C) on a meat thermometer. Transfer the turkey to a
cutting board, cover with aluminum foil and let it rest
while you prepare the gravy.
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
5 For the gravy, use the roasting pan if it has toasted
bits that aren’t burnt, otherwise heat a clean medium
saucepan over medium heat. Add the pancetta and
cook until crisp, stirring occasionally, about 5 minutes.
Spoon the cooked pancetta onto a plate and drain the
fat into a measuring cup.
6 Measure 3 Tbsp (45 mL) of the fat back into the pan,
supplementing with butter if needed. Add the flour,
and stir with a wooden spoon over medium heat until
the roux becomes the colour of peanut butter, about 7
minutes.
7 Add the reserved ¼ cup (60 mL) of marinade, stirring
well, and then whisk in 1 cup (250 mL) of the stock,
waiting until it begins to bubble before whisking in the
remaining 1 cup (250 mL). Bring the gravy to a simmer,
add the cooked pancetta and season to taste with salt
and pepper.
8 To serve, untie the turkey, cut into ½-inch (1 cm) slices
and serve with the gravy.
HELPFUL HINT
Traditional porchetta seasoning also includes rosemary
and fennel, but I find these flavours can be overwhelming
and not always family-friendly, which is why I don’t use
them in this turketta.
Kouign Amann
Makes 12 Pastries
Prep: 30 Minutes
Cook: 35 Minutes
I fell in love with these pastries a few
years back on a visit to Montreal, a
city that is pastry heaven! This layered,
buttery sweet pastry was created in
Brittany, a region of France famous
for its butter (kouign amann means
“cake butter” in Breton). Imagine a
croissant that is a little more like puff
pastry, with a caramelized sugar crust
and a soft sweet interior . . . Now get
ready to bake! Like many classic French
pastries, kouign amann take patience
and adherence to timing—they’re the
boss, not you, but you get to take all of
the credit when friends and family rave
about them.
MAKE AHEAD
I don’t recommend baking these ahead of time,
since they are best enjoyed the day they are baked.
They are tastiest once cool, when the caramelized
sugar on the surface has had time to set and
become crunchy. Timing is key when rolling,
folding and letting your kouign amann rise. If you
do want to make these ahead of time to freeze and
bake later, make the dough, do the first 2 folds
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine
and then freeze, well wrapped, for up to 3 months. Thaw the
dough overnight in the fridge before continuing with the folds
that use sugar. (If you were to freeze the assembled kouign
amann, the sugar would liquefy once thawed and you would
end up with sticky pastries that are difficult to handle.)
DOUGH
2 ½ cups (375 g) all-purpose flour
2 Tbsp (25 g) granulated sugar
1 pkg (2¼ tsp/8 g) instant dry yeast
1 tsp fine sea salt
1 cup (250 mL) cool water
2 Tbsp (30 mL) vegetable oil
BUTTER AND ASSEMBLY
1 cup (225 g) unsalted butter, at room
temperature
½ cup (100 g) granulated sugar, divided
1 For the dough, combine the flour, sugar, yeast and salt
in a large mixing bowl, if mixing by hand, or in a stand
mixer fitted with the hook attachment. Add the water
and oil and stir together on low speed until combined.
Increase the speed 1 level and mix until the dough
feels smooth and elastic, about 4 minutes. (If mixing
by hand, stir the dough with a wooden spoon until it
becomes too difficult, and then turn it out onto a work
surface once combined and knead until elastic, about
6 minutes. The dough should come off the bottom and
sides of the bowl but will be relatively soft.)
2 Place the dough in an ungreased bowl, cover the bowl
with plastic wrap and let rise for 1 hour, until doubled
in size. Punch the dough down, shape it into a 10-inch
(25 cm) square (dust your hands with flour to prevent
sticking), wrap in plastic and chill for at least 1 hour, or
up to 8 hours.
3 For the butter, beat the butter and 2 Tbsp (25 g) of
the sugar together. Line the bottom and sides of a 9 ×
5-inch (2 L) loaf pan with plastic wrap and press the
butter into the bottom in an even layer. Wrap well and
chill for at least 1 hour.
4 If preparing the dough and butter more than 1 hour
ahead, pull both out from the fridge 30 minutes before
rolling. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured
surface. Place the rectangle of butter on top of the
dough and fold the dough over so the sheet of butter is
hidden. Press out any air pockets and pinch the dough,
just a little, to enclose the butter.
5 Roll out the dough to a rectangle 12 × 18 inches (30 × 45
cm), just under ½ inch (1 cm) thick. Bring the short sides
together so that they meet in the centre and then fold the
dough in half like a book. Rotate the dough 90 degrees
and repeat, this time folding the dough into thirds. Wrap
the dough in plastic wrap and chill for 1 hour.
6 Lightly dust a work surface with ¼ cup (50 g) of the
sugar and roll out the dough to a rectangle 12 × 18
inches (30 × 45 cm), just under ½ inch (1 cm) thick.
Sprinkle the top of the dough with the remaining 2
Tbsp (25 g) of sugar and fold it in thirds.
7 Rotate the dough 90 degrees and repeat the rolling and
folding (but not adding more sugar at this point). Wrap
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and chill the dough for exactly 20 minutes (any longer,
the sugar will dissolve).
8 Grease a 12-cup muffin pan and set aside. Unwrap the
dough and roll it (no additional flour or sugar will be
needed) into a rectangle 16 × 12 inches (40 × 30 cm) and
just over ¼ inch (0.5 cm) thick.
9 Trim away any rough edges and cut the dough into
twelve 4-inch (10 cm) squares.
10 Bring the corners of each square into the centre, pinch
them together and press down gently. Press each
pastry into a muffin cup and cover the pan with a tea
towel, letting the dough rise for 1 hour.
11 Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Place the muffin pan
on a parchment-lined baking tray and bake for 30 to
35 minutes, until the kouign amann are a rich golden
brown. Carefully turn them out of the pan (they will be
sticky and hot) onto a wire rack to cool completely.
HELPFUL HINTS
When you are rolling and folding the kouign amann in
sugar for the final time, you need to work quickly — the
more you handle the dough, the more it will warm up and
then liquefy the sugar. Once you get the pastries into the
pan, the pressure is off.
There are times when investing in top-quality butter
really counts, and this is one of them (shortbread cookies
are another). Most butter in Canada has a fat content of
80%, but premium butter has 82% (check the label). That
extra 2% makes a big difference in a pastry where butter is
important for flavour and texture.
,
Christmas Goodies!
62 | November/December 2019
The Lighter Side
A Child’s Christmas
By MARK KEARNEY
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
The art of being good at Christmas,
as I came to understand it as a child,
included helping Mom with the
upcoming feast.
It was always turkey, and it called for
dressing. (Some others called it “stuffing”
but it was “dressing” in our house.) My sister
and I would sit in the kitchen, a loaf or two of
bread and a large bowl facing us, and tear the
future dressing into small bits,
occasionally popping a stray piece
or two into our mouths. At that
point it was just bread, but we
knew come Christmas that with
the addition of onion, pepper and
perhaps other herbs with which
we had no familiarity, it would
taste tantalizing when scooped
from inside the roasted bird.
A few days later on Christmas
afternoon, with the turkey
ensconced in the oven, we would
spill onto our street in the village
eager to share stories of our lovely loot,
which now lay opened and scattered under
the exhausted tree. Chatting with friends, we
would get a taste of how everyone’s Christmas
had been so far, and how eagerly we were all
looking forward to the evening feast.
After one more inspection of our presents
before dinner, we gathered at the table. Bring
out the roasted turkey, the mashed potatoes,
the peas, the corn, the dressing, tomato juice,
wine for the adults, and the gravy — most
of all the glorious gravy. What is better as a
child than pouring the brown elixir that is
gravy onto the white meat, the dark meat, the
potatoes — oh, yes, smother the potatoes with
it — and watching it flow river-like through the
vegetables into a pool on the only tiny spot on
my plate that isn’t heaped with food?
We didn’t just eat the Christmas bird, we
attacked it as if it were the last we would ever
have. I’d tuck away my second helping before
my stomach had even acknowledged the first.
Yes, there would be sighs and groans later as
our bloated bellies rebelled, but it was always
worth it. For dessert there was no traditional
flaming pudding in our household, but instead
… birthday cake. December 25 was the date
of my brother’s birthday, so out came the
candled cake, always chocolate, and he’d make
a wish. (No doubt he craved any other day for
his birthday so that his gifts could be spread
out longer than 24 hours.)
The clock’s hands have moved relentlessly
forward since those early years,
and each Christmas blends into
the next and the next. Some gifts
more memorable than others,
some feasts better than previous
ones. Christmas Eve’s midnight
mass has long been replaced
by other rituals — traditional
tourtière for dinner and glasses
of wine followed by screenings
of A Christmas Carol or It’s A
Wonderful Life.
On those perfect occasions
with the drape of winter
darkness descended and the snow drowsily
dropping outside the window, I’m taken
back to those decades-ago days. Dry voices
from the past, as if carried in by a gentle
gust, whisper in my weary ears their tales
of Christmases past. Half-heartedly fighting
sleep, I recall snatches of long-ago village
gossip, a half-sung carol wafting over the
churchyard, delightful screams from a nearby
hill as children hurtle downward on the
toboggan ride of their lives, or the barely
stifled laughter of a rosy-cheeked boyhood
chum nestled beside me in a snow fort
plotting our next brave move.
And now, wrapped in the warm embrace
of midnight and memories of bygone times,
I slip softly to sleep, the promise of another
Christmas meal mere hours away.
MARK KEARNEY has been a journalist for more than
35 years and has been published in nearly 80 publications
in North America. He teaches writing and journalism at
Western University.
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