Eatdrink #80 November/December 2019 - The Holiday Issue

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58 | November/December 2019 eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag Recipes Set for the Holidays Recipes to Bring Comfort andJoy by Anna Olson Review and Recipe Selections by TRACY TURLIN Set for the Holidays with Anna Olson: Recipes to Bring Comfort and Joy: From Starters to Sweets, for the Festive Season and Almost Every Day (2018; Appetite by Random House) is a soothing trip through a beautiful world of confident entertaining, elegant décor, and food that’s almost too pretty to eat. Anna Olson is an award winning pastry chef, author, and television personality. Born in Atlanta, Georgia, she spent her childhood in Toronto and now calls the Niagara region her home. She’s become the sunny face of Canadian baking through her online and TV presence and her collection of cookbooks. Chef Olson’s ideas of entertaining at the holidays can be summed up by the word “sparkle” and she tells us that “you can’t have sparkle if you have stress.” Most of the dishes in Set for the Holidays are decidedly festive, but they’d work as well for any other celebration. There’s a Lemon Meringue Yule Log recipe that’s going to become Lemon Meringue Tracy’s Birthday Cake for at least a few years. Given Olson’s fame as a pastry chef, it’s no surprise that half of this book is devoted to the sweet side of the holidays. That still leaves half a book of savoury dishes that somehow manage to look as delicate and delicious as the sweets. There are multi-option menus for both Thanksgiving and Christmas, as well as sophisticated New Year’s Eve nibbles, and brunch for the whole family. Vegan and vegetarian options are clearly marked but my favourite icon was the “particularly gift-able” symbol that marks recipes that are perfect for creating homemade kitchen gifts. There’s nothing like wowing your guests with a great meal, then sending them home with a jar of the magical ingredient. I also appreciated the chapter on leftovers. Olson gives us recipes for comforting one-pot meals to transform your holiday leftovers and warm you through the rest of the cold season. I have nearly given up on serving turkey, making the easier choice of chicken or ham for my holiday feasts. I changed my mind when I saw Marinated Boneless Turkey Breast Roast with Panchetta Gravy. If that title alone wasn’t enough to sway me, the author suggests a gluten-free option that substitutes Caramelized Onion Cream for the gravy. You need to follow two other (easy) recipes to get this exact sauce, but I will tell you that it combines two cups of caramelized onions, one cup of whipping cream, and one ounce of brandy. Holiday decadence in the most elegant way. Since turkey dinner isn’t complete without dressing, there are Sausage Dressing Squares. Basically these are Anna Olson
eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine November/December 2019 | 59 Thanksgiving dinner in a finger food. With or without the bacon they are a perfect appetizer, or a dangerously addictive television snack. An Anna Olson book review wouldn’t be complete without a pastry and the Kouign Amann might be the best pastry I had never heard of. Olson describes it as resembling “a croissant that is a little more like puff pastry, with a caramelized sugar crust and soft sweet interior.” It fits all my preconceived notions of French pastry: it’s fussy, requires a lot of patience and is best eaten fresh from the oven. I will probably drive my family crazy trying to master this dish. Set for the Holidays makes you feel like you can have all this sparkle without any stress. That’s something to celebrate all year long. TRACY TURLIN is a freelance writer and dog groomer in London. Reach her at tracyturlin@gmail.com Excerpted from Set for the Holidays with Anna Olson by Anna Olson. Copyright © 2019 Anna Olson. Photography by Janis Nicolay. Published by Appetite by Random House®, a division of Penguin Random House Canada Limited. Reproduced by arrangement with the Publisher. All rights reserved. Marinated Boneless Turkey Breast Roast with pancetta gravy Serves 6 to 8 (with enough for leftovers) Prep: 20 minutes, plus marinating Cook: 105 minutes. This marinated turkey recipe, which I call my turketta, strays from the traditional whole turkey (page 93). It’s a nice option if you have a small kitchen or if your family insists on turkey for Thanksgiving and Christmas, but you’d rather not serve the same menu twice. Porchetta is a boneless herb-rubbed pork loin that is roasted until the skin crisps up. Here I use similar flavours but with turkey. For a fully gluten-free option, substitute Caramelized Onion Cream (page 120) for the gravy. MAKE AHEAD You should start marinating the turkey at least 3 hours (up to a maximum of 24 hours) before it is to go in the oven. Any cooked leftovers (hello, turkey sandwich!) will keep, well wrapped, for up to 4 days in the fridge and up to 3 months in the freezer. Thaw in the fridge before using. TURKEY ¼ cup (60 mL) extra virgin olive oil 1 medium onion, peeled and chopped 3 cloves garlic, chopped Finely grated zest of 1 lemon 8 large fresh sage leaves 2 Tbsp (30 mL) fresh thyme leaves 2 tsp salt, plus extra for the turkey 1 tsp chili flakes ½ tsp black pepper, plus extra for the turkey 2 turkey breasts, each about 2¼ lb/1 kg 3 Tbsp (45 g) butter GRAVY 1 cup (125 g) uncooked diced pancetta 3 Tbsp (45 g) combined pancetta fat and butter ¼ cup (35 g) all-purpose flour 2 cups (500 mL) low-sodium or no-salt-added chicken or turkey stock
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Eatdrink #80 November/December 2019 - The Holiday Issue

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