What's Brewing Winter 2019

whatsbrewing

Winter 2019 is a particularly insightful issue. Its 17 stories and features include a cover story about how brewing school became BC's Brewery of the Year, and a Tasting Panel spotlight on Porters. Plus: the decline of cask beer, self-serve taprooms, a preview of the 7th Annual Beer Me BC year-end survey results, and lots more knowledge and opinions about BC's craft beer scene.

BC Craft Beer Survey • Beer Gifts • Spotlight on Porters • The Death of Casks • Brewery Logos • Urban Orchards • Wax Dipping

THE JOURNAL OF BC'S CRAFT BEER MOVEMENT

BEST IN CLASS

How a brewing school became

BC's Brewery of the Year

Inside: the BC Craft Beer

VOL.29 ISSUE 4 Winter 2019-20

KPU Brewing & Brewery Operations Program


PURCHASE THIS MONTH’S FEATURED PANEL BEERS IN STORE OR ONLINE AT LEGACYLIQUOR.COM

IN THE HEART OF FALSE CREEK | 1633 MANITOBA STREET, VANCOUVER




VOL.29 ISSUE 4

Illustration: Montevarious

WINTER

2019-20

THE JOURNAL OF BC'S

CRAFT BEER MOVEMENT

Our Winter issue features highlights from our unique annual Holiday Gift Guide.

View the full Gift Guide online at whatsbrewing.ca/giftguide

CONTENTS

31 SPECIAL FEATURE: BC CRAFT BEER HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE

COMMUNITY

11 COVER: CLASS OF BEER: THE STORY OF KPU BREWING

17 WOMEN IN BEER: NANCY MORE: LEGEND

20 CIDER: HARVESTING THE URBAN ORCHARDS

OPINION

06 OPENING REMARKS: BEER ME BC SURVEY INSIGHTS

26 ULLAGE & SPILLAGE: SERVING IT RIGHTEOUSLY

27 A VIEW FROM THE CELLAR: THE DEATH OF CASKS

29 WAX ON, WAX OFF! THE FOLLY OF WAX DIPPING BOTTLES

BEER IQ

22 TASTING PANEL: DARK & SILKY: A PORTER SPOTLIGHT

37 BOOKS IN REVIEW: HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE TO BOOKS

38 HOMEBREW HAPPENIN'S: HOMEBREWER GIFT GUIDE

47 BC BREWERY BRANDING PART II: LOGOS

TOURING, TRAVEL & REGIONAL REPORTS

40 OUT & ABOUT: TRAVELLING IN UK IN WINTER

41 NORTHERN NOTES: WINTER WONDERLAND OF CRAFT BEER

42 BEERS, BEACHES & BREWERIES: WINTER IN PENTICTON

44 HAVE CAMERA WILL TRAVEL: CRAFT BEER & WILDERNESS

What's Brewing

Produced by Line49 Design Group Inc.

300-1275 West 6th Avenue

Vancouver BC V6H 1A6

info@whatsbrewing.ca

www.whatsbrewing.ca

Social: @whatsbrewingbc

Editorial Group

Editor & Publisher: Dave Smith

Co-Editor: Paul Morris

Associate Production Editor: Navin Autar

Copy Editors: Wendy Barron, Ivana Smith

Contact: editor@whatsbrewing.ca

Hopline & Newsroom

Associate Editor, Events: Edward Kaye

Contact: events@whatsbrewing.ca

Associate Editor, Newsroom: Navin Autar

Contact: newsroom@whatsbrewing.ca

Contributors:

Mike Ansley, Adam Arthur, Warren Boyer,

Adam Chatburn, Ted Child, Lundy Dale,

Ed Kaye, Kim Lawton, Stewart 'Scottie'

McLellan, Leif Miltenberger, Jeff Nairn,

Mathieu Poirier, J. Random, Brian K.

Smith, Paddy Treavor, Carnell Turton,

Abby Wiseman, Malcolm Yates

Chief Photographer: Brian K. Smith

Illustrator: Emile Compion @montevarious

Web & Admin: Navin Autar, Ligia

Margaritescu, Susan Jones

Advertising & Corporate Sales

sales@whatsbrewing.ca

© 2018 What's Brewing


OPENING REMARKS

A DEMOCRATIC SURVEY

THAT'S WORTH THE WORK

During November, What's Brewing's sister website Beer Me

BC conducted its seventh annual BC Craft Beer Survey.

Since 2013, it has provided insights about craft beer in BC,

including the preferences and opinions of you, the BC craft

beer fan. And we take the part about you seriously.

To make it possible to know what each one of our >1000 voters really

thinks, we allow people to write in any choice for Favourite Beer, Cider,

Brewery, Event and so on. What does that mean? A lot of work for our

data analyst, who has to decode all manner of entries and misspellings.

Of course we could limit our work, and people's choices, by providing a

curated shortlist of only those breweries which we, or other beer media,

happen to think are BC's very best...but we know we'd be omitting most

of BC's beer community in the process. Also, we might be disappointing

a large percentage (if not a majority) of our voters, who may not want

to elect one of the "established elite" with their ballot. As a result, we

have a lot of deep data. Here are some bonus insights for WB readers.

2019 SURVEY: INSIDER PEEK & HONOURABLE MENTIONS

Favourite Brewery: it was Field House in a landslide, up from second

last year. Also Parallel 49 and Dageraad shot up the list. Behind the

scenes, we see many votes for these breweries who deserve Honourable

Mention: Bad Tattoo, Cannery, Dead Frog, Foamers' Folly, Mariner,

Moody Ales, Red Truck, Steel & Oak, Storm and Twin Sails. Bonus:

Pacific Western Brewing got one vote, which is fair. It's a democracy!

New Brewery: congrats to North Van's House of Funk for running

away with this. Unsurprisingly, Victoria's Île Sauvage, open for a year

now, still killed it too. But hats off to Port Moody's Bakery, Langley's

Five Roads and Penticton's Slackwater for their strong showing.

Favourite Cidery. New this year! Topping the votes were Island-based

Sea Cider and Merridale. There were a surprising number of votes for

smaller operators Salt Spring Wild Cider, Fraser Valley Cider and

Dominion Cider of Summerland, too.

Favourite Event: the Top Five perennials saw little change, but right

behind them were Fraser Valley "newcomers" Fort Langley Beer + Food

Festival and Clover Valley Beer Festival.

There's more to the Survey than a popularity contest. Look also for

some interesting industry analytics that we make public annually

(cheers to Beer Me BC founder Dustan Sept for his work behind the

scenes, and thanks also to our sponsors). You'll find the rest of the story

at BeerMeBC.com.

6 WHAT'S BREWING WINTER 2019-20


COMMUNITY SUPPORTERS

Many thanks to these supporters who help bring What's Brewing to you!

Find a printed copy at whatsbrewing.ca/find

BC CRAFT CALENDAR

with Ed Kaye

Winter is traditionally a bit of a slower time for beer

events, but this seems to have changed over the last

few years. A number of seasonal events are popping

up, focusing on all of the wonderful “big beers” that

breweries produce for the colder months.

On December 1, Parallel 49 Brewing hosts an Imperial & Strong

Beer Festival at their street kitchen. This event takes the place of

their old Brawnywine festival, with an expanded variety of boozy

beers like imperial stouts, baltic porters, eisbocks, and the like.

The first weekend of January brings The Drake’s 6th annual Wild

& Sour Beers event. This day sees them dedicate their taps to

pouring some of the world's finest tart and funky ales. There’s

usually a ticketed lunch portion that comes with a curated flight.

Don’t forget to bring Tums.

Later in the month, Weathered Beer Celebration returns for its

sophomore year on the 25th and 26th. Weathered is a curated beer

and art event celebrating imperial stouts, barley wines, extreme

hops, wild ales, and lambic. If Farmhouse Fest is the highlight of

my summer, then Weathered is definitely my winter highlight.

Early February brings Island Beer & Spirit Festival to the Strath

Hotel in Victoria. This event focuses exclusively on beer, cider,

and spirits produced on Vancouver Island.

February 29 brings the 3rd annual Hopwired Festival to the Croatian

Cultural Centre in East Vancouver. Hopwired is Canada’s

first and only specialty coffee and craft beer festival. If you love

coffee and beer, this event is for you!

For info and links to all of the above, see our Top Picks Calendar

at whatsbrewing.ca/calendar/featured

For the latest in Craft Beer News, Events & Opinion, follow

or subscribe to the Hopline e-news. New issue every Thurs!

@whatsbrewingbc | #hopline | www.hopline.ca

Canada's Original Dedicated Beer Radio Show:

Just Here for the Beer

with Joe Leary and Rick Mohabir

Saturdays + Sundays on TSN 1040

Listen online: www.tsn1040.ca

WINTER 2019-20 WHAT'S BREWING 7


VANCOUVER BREWERY TOUR

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ON YOUR LIST?

Just in time for the holiday season, brewery tour gift

certificates make the perfect experience gift for the beer

loving friends, family and co-workers in your life.

Visit us online to grab one today

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Learn more at centralcitybrewing.com



COVER | BREWERIES IN PROFILE

KPU Brewing faculty L-R: Jon Howe, Dominic Bernard, Martina Solano Bielen, Nancy More,

Alek Egi, Derek Kindret & Stan Wong. Not pictured: Ken Beattie

CLASS OF BEER

How a Langley university is helping BC brew better

>> DAVE SMITH

Images: Brian K. Smith

Since 2010, the BC Beer Awards & Festival (BCBA) has

championed microbrewing excellence in British Columbia.

During a decade of furious expansion in this province’s

craft beer sector, the Vancouver-based competition’s

rotating panel of judges has annually appraised a growing

multitude of product samples and styles in order to select deserving

prizewinners. Each time, its overseers have dutifully compiled the

extensive results in order to extrapolate the identity of the ultimate

victor—the ‘Brewery of the Year’.

For nine years, the succession of small brewers basking in the elation

of overall triumph has involved a uniformity too ordinary to

notice: each one of those winning breweries, no matter how large,

small, successful, fashionable or obscure, has been a for-profit

commercial entity. It took until the tenth year of the festival for

that invisible pattern to break in dramatic fashion, when Kwantlen

Polytechnic University’s Brewing & Brewery Operations

program was crowned champion at the BC Beer Awards this past

October.

For the first time ever in Canada (and maybe only the second time

in North America), a brewing education program at a registered

not-for-profit institution faced off against well over 100 commercial

breweries in a fully adjudicated, top-level regional brewing

competition and beat them all for top honours. Certainly, the

question here cannot be ‘why did it take ten years?’. The question

is: how did this happen at all?

WINTER 2019-20 WHAT'S BREWING 11

Riding A Golden Wave

Those same ten years have comprised an amazing decade in the

BC beer renaissance, during which a series of advancements in

both liquor policy and consumer experience has driven mass acceptance

of a new craft beer subculture. The heroes of this movement

are its head brewers, many of whom honed self-taught skills

as passionate homebrewers before successfully negotiating a path

to competence in a commercial operation.

With a bit of reflection, one can imagine that the learning curve involved

would have been significant, and that success in the industry

was never guaranteed for these self-starters. There was probably

also a leap of faith for the new BC brewery owners employing

many of them. But what choice did they have in candidates, given

that dedicated brewery education programs were an esoteric luxury

offered in far-flung locations like Northern California, Chicago,

Scotland and Germany—not here in Canada.

At least, that was the case until 2010, when the Niagara College

Teaching Brewery (NCTB) was formed. Based in pastoral Southern

Ontario, Niagara College had founded a Teaching Winery

by 2002, prompted by the growing success of local vineyards.

As is often the case, beer followed wine when NCTB launched a

new two-year diploma program. Amazingly, the Teaching Brewery

began competing with commercial breweries within a year

and winning awards for individual beers at the U.S. Open Beer

Championship as early as 2011. Since then, NCTB has become

part of the fabric of the Ontario brewing scene.

Continued on page 12


COVER | breweries in profile

Continued from page 11

In 2016, All About Beer magazine published a feature on the brewing

education scene in which it identified that there were at least

a couple dozen US colleges offering beer and brewing programs.

That same year, the people behind the U.S. Open also apparently

noticed that there were a lot of schools competing for mainstream

brewing awards, so it forked off a standalone competition called

the U.S. Open College Beer Championship. The top honour

for best college brewing program at the inaugural U.S. College

Open went to...Canada, as Niagara was crowned Grand National

Champion. Little did anyone know that in a mere three years,

there would be a second such honour for Canada.

A Stroke of Fate

There are occasions when the right person happens to arrive in

the right place at the perfect time to make a difference to many.

One such example is when Dr. Alan Davis came on board as President

of Kwantlen Polytechnic University in 2012. Among Davis’

past educational appointments was a term at Niagara College in

the early-mid 2000s, beginning soon after their Teaching Winery

was established. This experience clearly made an impression on

Davis, because early in his KPU tenure, he made an interesting

suggestion to another new arrival.

Dr. Elizabeth Worobec (better known simply as Betty) became

Dean of Kwantlen’s Faculty of Science and Horticulture in 2012.

In her first year, she was asked to assess the feasibility of a new

program. “Coming from Niagara College,” she recalls, “President

Davis thought we should have some kind of credential around

wine and winemaking.”

As she tells it, “We arranged for a consultant to come out from

Niagara, then toured some local wineries. To fill out our day they

had us visit two craft breweries,” referring to Surrey’s Central

City Brewing and Russell Brewing.

Dean Worobec continues, “I went to each of the establishments

with two questions:

1. If we provided a trained workforce, would you hire?

2. If you would, what sort of credential would you require?”

The wineries were noncommittal, leaving Worobec skeptical. But

both breweries told her, “We will hire five people today. Here is

the type of training they should have.”

Beer wasn’t on the menu at first, but it now had Worobec’s attention.

So, she followed up. “I think I called every craft brewery

in the area and asked them those same questions,” the Dean reveals.

“Every single one I talked to was so excited and welcoming;

that was the impetus that kept us going.” They investigated other

programs such as Niagara, Alberta's Olds College, Oregon State

University and U.C. (Davis) until they settled on a two-year diploma

program.

Worobec recalls, “In 2013, when we were putting together the

proposal for approval by the University and the provincial Ministry

of Higher Education, we brought together a group of BC craft

beer specialists.” Ken Beattie was newly minted as Executive Director

of the BC Craft Brewers Guild. Brad McQuhae had founded

Newlands Systems Inc., who ultimately donated the school’s

main brewing system. They and some local head brewers met in

a room with a whiteboard and drafted a bare bones outline for a

two-year diploma program.

Martina, Dominic, Alek, Stan & Nancy in the office

Thus formed the large, loose steering group termed the Advisory

Committee, comprised of the very industry members that

the new program would be constructed to serve. This grassroots

community engagement helped the program start off on the right

path for serious potential.

“The impression that remains with me is: collaboration was at the

core of the decision-making process,” Beattie shares. “The University

was completely focused on the feedback the brewing community

was providing them."

Developing A Team

At that point, as Dean Worobec explains, “We then needed to hire

content experts to create the courses and curriculum. We put out

a want ad and had two amazing candidates with different skill

sets apply: Dominic Bernard had a strong science background,

while Nancy More had the science along with amazing business

acumen; both had considerable brewing experience. They divided

the courses in half and went on to develop the curriculum.”

Outside of Beattie, Nancy More is easily the KPU faculty member

best known to the BC brewing community—and in terms of being

celebrated, she gives Ken a serious run for his money. Considered

by many to be the first female Brewmaster in North America,

Nancy is an international brewing industry veteran who worked

for decades at Interbrew (Oland, Labatt) and Diageo (Guinness).

She’s also now officially a Legend in BC brewing (you’ll find out

more about that in Lundy Dale’s Women in Beer interview, right

after this story). After rising to senior management and holding

positions in the UK, Russia, Asia and Africa, she came back to

Canada in 2013 with the intent to retire from the industry...until a

friend saw a job posting on Kwantlen’s website.

“It was pretty random”, Nancy says of the happenstance that

brought her into the KPU fold. “I was in Nigeria acting as the

Technical Director for Guinness.” The next thing she knew, she

was applying for a job in Langley BC and helping develop a fledgling

educational program.

With her experience in training brewers, creating a curriculum

wasn’t completely new, but as Nancy says, “I discovered that

teaching takes way more time than I ever expected. I tell people

it’s a lot easier to run a multi-million-dollar organization than it

is to teach two university courses at the same time.” She’s gained

new respect for higher education, noting “Academia has its own

special language, and I had to learn the thinking processes, language

and culture.”

12 WHAT'S BREWING WINTER 2019-20


COVER | breweries in profile

The person Nancy was partnered up with had a head start in formal

education: Dominic Bernard is a former high school teacher

with a chemistry degree from SFU. When a friend at Granville

Island Brewing said Dominic should work in beer, he started

homebrewing. After running into James Walton of Storm Brewing

at the Great Canadian Beer Festival, he sat in on a brew day

and met veteran Lower Mainland brewers like Tim Brown, then

at Mission Springs Brew Pub. Dominic hung around Mission

Springs doing things like filling bottles until he was finally hired

and trained to brew by Brown, who would himself eventually do

a tour of duty as a KPU instructor.

Dean Worobec continues, “Once the program was approved by

KPU and the Province, we needed to hire our main brewing faculty.

We knew we wanted to hire both Dominic and Nancy but

needed another full-time brewing expert, who turned out to be

Program Chair Alek Egi.”

Alek came to Canada from the University of Belgrade, landing at

Halifax’ Dalhousie University under a prof who was doing some

interesting research in brewing. He soon interned at a malting facility

in Alberta, and ultimately became long-time Brewing Manager

at the Canadian Malt Barley Technical Centre in Winnipeg.

His background with malt has given him an special perspective

as a brewery instructor.

Worobec concludes, “The hiring committee knew from the first

interviews with Nancy, Alek and Dominic that they would be able

to lead the program to success. We were also fortunate to hire the

other great instructors we have today, including Martina Solano

Bielen, Ken Beattie, Stan Wong, Jon Howe and Derek Kindret.”

The latter two, dubbed ‘the twins’ during our photo shoot, are

KPU graduates who decided it was also a good place to work. Jon

recounts, “I learned a whole ton in my first year, then got picked

up at Bomber Brewing.” Then in the fall of 2016, a posting went

up online and he applied for the faculty position.

“It’s the best of both worlds for me,” Jon reveals. “I get to stay in

that University environment where I’m constantly learning new

things, but I’m also practicing my brewing skills. It’s very cool

to be around a group of people that are so passionate about it.”

Derek adds, “It’s hard to find a cohesive group that collectively

knows so much about all of the topics of brewing.”

“It’s a well-rounded program,” states Martina, whose superpower

is microbiology. “They get to do Chemistry, Biology, Sensory,

Mechanical Engineering, Marketing, Business Management…”

WINTER 2019-20 WHAT'S BREWING 13

Nancy, Jon and Derek with Dean Worobec

Derek continues, “You might want to be a brewer, but you also

need distribution, you need health & safety, you need sales.” On

that latter point, Stan notes, “It’s an evolution from being a homebrewer

into the business of beer, and making sure that the great

products that you’re making are saleable.”

Everybody Loves an Underdog

Bit by bit since its debut, the KPU Brewing program has climbed

up the ladder of success. In 2016, first-round alum Ashley Brooks

was the first KPU graduate to take gold at BC Beer Awards, while

brewing for Surrey’s Big Ridge. The next two years, the program

won its own BCBA trophies. Recipes for submitted samples are

typically designed by the instructors, but production involves the

brewing students.

In 2017, the year after Niagara took top honours at the inaugural

U.S. Open College Beer Championship, KPU placed second overall.

Then in spring 2019 they reached the pinnacle: Grand National

Champion among all North American brewing schools. Half

a year later, they were crowned BC champion brewery, period.

It’s hard to imagine what else there is to win at this point.

Why all the fuss about the BC Beer Awards win? Consider that

BCBA invites commercial breweries doing professional work

daily, many for quite some time. For instance, Vancouver Island

Brewing was founded three decades before KPU’s program was.

The Brew Lab

Rare as the BCBA win was, Kwantlen isn’t the first school in North

America to beat the pros—although it probably didn’t miss being

first by much. The only equivalent win we’re aware of belongs to

the Culinary Institute of America, whose teaching brewery was

awarded New York State Brewery of the Year in March 2019—a

mere seven months prior to KPU in what seems to be a stellar

year for post-secondary brewing. (Credit goes to BC Beer Awards

co-founder Chester Carey, a culinary expert himself, for digging

that tidbit up.)

Chester explains how the school was chosen by BCBA as champion:

“The title is awarded to the brewery with the highest medals-per-entry

averaged score. The total medals each brewery wins

is divided by the number of beers that brewery has entered into

the competition.” That’s a relatively common approach at similar

events.

It does mean that there might be another brewery which won

more total awards, which was the case in October when Dageraad

Brewing took home an astounding nine BCBA trophies. But judging

by Brewery Manager Mitch Warner’s comment to this author

that “It’s pretty awesome KPU won,” one can tell that the former

Canadian Brewery of the Year holds no grudge. It’s hard not to

root for the underdog.

Continued on page 14


COVER | breweries in profile

Continued from page 13

Is this lab a real Brewery?

Every Friday from 1:00-6:00 PM during the school term, you can

visit the KPU Brew Lab at Kwantlen’s Langley campus and buy

yourself a growler fill. It’s a bit odd to drive up to a university for

that weekend beer run, but it’s a great way to support the students

and find out if their beer is really good enough to win all

those trophies.

To get to the pouring station, you’ll walk by the brewhouse. With

its columns of tiny fermenters that accommodate multiple brew

teams, it resembles an alien laundromat. Given its modest capacity

(2 hl NSI system), some might question whether this lab could

properly be called a brewery. The answer: go look at the awards

shelf.

Building a teaching brewhouse isn’t the same as establishing your

typical science course. As Dean Betty Worobec recalls, “Our first

class began September 2014. I really thought the brewery would

be ready by then. But we had to do a lot of adjustments because

we couldn’t get into the brewery until February. So that first class

was different than the ones that came after.”

Delays in construction and launch. Sound familiar? If nothing

else, that should convince anyone familiar with craft industry

start-ups that KPU Brew Lab is a real brewery.

Student at work

During that building phase, the team

continued community outreach, meeting

many of the brewers Dominic knew

at places like Parallel 49, Coal Harbour,

Main Street and Strange Fellows. He and

Nancy also toured Delta’s Turning Point

Brewery (aka the Stanley Park label, now

owned by Labatt) as well. After the program

was underway, there were student

field trips to places like the Molson brewery

on Burrard, when it was operational.

That highlights something in KPU’s approach

that differs from the other BC

institutions that have explored the beer

education space. For instance, the Pacific

Institute of Culinary Arts (PICA) offers

a craft beer appreciation course, and

in 2020 Okanagan College will do the

same.

Then there’s Simon Fraser University, who actually beat KPU to

the punch when a Science of Brewing course kicked off at its Surrey

campus in January 2014. That effort was followed by a wider

Craft Beer and Brewing Essentials program targeted at homebrew

hobbyists and working industry personnel looking to brush up

on their knowledge. The name of the program reflects the obvious

current appeal of learning “craft” brewing, so the program wasn’t

conceived to train people who might want to work in a large-scale

commercial operation.

KPU wants no such limitation. Instructor Martina Solano Bielen

says, “Within the first month, some students might decide, ‘I

would like to work at Molson. What can I do to get there?’ Then

there will be students who would never want to work at Molson.”

Nevertheless, the goal of KPU’s two-year program is to educate

14 WHAT'S BREWING WINTER 2019-20

At the growler fill station

people—with hands-on training—to the level that they would be

seriously considered for work anywhere from an esoteric craft

outlet to a giant international brewery. For instance, one KPU

grad was hired as production manager at Granville Island, which

is a subsidiary of Molson Coors. That’s a respectable job.

The understanding that brewing jobs aren’t only out there in

fashionable micros probably stems from the experience of the

faculty, with BC Craft Brewers Guild leader Ken Beattie originally

coming from Molson and Sleeman, Nancy More from Labatt

and Guinness, and marketing instructor Stan Wong previously at

Labatt. They are all invested in the BC craft scene, but they also

recognize the technical excellence of many brewers at the Big Beer

level...and they’ve helped shape a program with the chops to vie

with the ones that inspired it in a relatively short time.

In fact there is one category in which KPU has indisputably

outdone the competition, thanks to their 2017 designation as a

Recognized Program by the Master Brewers Association of the

Americas (MBAA), for meeting its “approved guidelines and

learning outcomes.” As of this writing, only a dozen other US institutions

have met the necessary stringent requirements, leaving

KPU as the first (and so far only) MBAA-approved school in Canada.

That potentially makes KPU tough to compete with.

On that note, it so happens that there’s currently a notice on the

SFU brewing website that their brewing program is undergoing

a review “as part of SFU’s program renewal cycle.” It states that

“We are taking this opportunity to offer all courses within the

program one last time as we explore the program’s future.”

Sama Ghnaim, Associate Director of Craft Beer and Brewing Essentials

at SFU Continuing Studies, confirms that it’s too early

to comment on the future of the program. However, she notes,

“We’re proud to have played a role in supporting the local craft

beer community. Our instructors have helped our students to network

and connect with the brewing community, helping them to

accomplish their goals and become part of this tightly-knit family.”

About Kwantlen’s recent success at BCBA, she opines, “Awards

like this shine a spotlight on the craft beer community and what

it is capable of.” Yes, they do; they probably also demonstrate the

return on investment a serious teaching brew lab has provided

KPU.

Continued on page 16



COVER | breweries in profile

Continued from page 14

What’s on Tap Next

Nancy More realizes that it’s an exciting era for beer.

When we spoke, her fridge was packing Ravens Hot

Chocolate Porter and Deep Cove Method Pale Ale. It’s

not random: she grabbed the beers when visiting former

students at those breweries. It works the same

way when she sees students at beer fests: “I like going

around and tasting what they’re making,” Nancy concedes.

She contemplates, “I look back, and many of the things

that are being brewed now, were being brewed in the

Labatt Technology Development Centre decades ago.

I remember that one of our trainees brewed a Vanilla

Stout with bananas. There was all this cool stuff going on...but the

scale of these breweries was simply too big to bring that sort of

thing to market. So, I think it’s wonderful that there are so many

people out there now [in craft beer] with the ability to be creative.”

Alek Egi feels that KPU has come a long way to meet that need in

the last five years: developing the courses, creating standard operating

procedures and getting the brewery how they’d like it to be.

As for where to go from here, he notes, “We’re constantly trying

to improve things. For instance: developing Continuing Studies

courses to offer to the existing brewing industry.” Dean Worobec

explains, “A lot of the students are in the workforce, and brewing

might be a second career. We’ve always been talking about some

kind of a part-time model so we can address the need for people

to work.”

School and work go hand in hand. “Every Fall when class starts,

I’m impressed by the number of students working at local breweries

while attending the program,” shares Ken Beattie. “I lost

count, at 28, of the number of KPU alumni who walked across the

stage as members of medal-winning breweries at this year’s BC

Beer Awards.”

Dominic notes, “When we started, beer people would ask, ‘What’s

Kwantlen?’ These days, when we go to a beer event, people know

us. We’ve got so many alumni working locally at BC breweries,

the beer festivals feel like home.”

“Students and graduates are spread out over the entire province,”

notes John DeJong, Sales Manager at Ravens Brewing. He goes

on to make a great point that “These students have a built-in network—because

of the pre-existing relationship—that will make

collaboration among breweries even stronger.”

KPU faculty & alumni celebrate the big win

value in what KPU is doing, describing them as a ‘welcomed addition’.

P49 has had a few KPU interns who have finished their

diploma then returned to a full-time position. He notes, “We look

for individuals who have the science and production knowledge

who are able to troubleshoot issues and problem solve as things

arise.”

As a result of managers like that, Program Chair Alek Egi states,

“Our graduate employment rate is over 90%. Almost anyone who

finishes this program and wants to work in a brewery can get a

job.”

Surprisingly, that success can lead to a certain challenge for KPU

Brewing. “We encourage our first-year students to go out, intern

and find [summer] jobs in the industry”, explains Dean Betty

Worobec. “The employers see how great they are after only

one year. So, every year we lose some [who drop out to begin

their new careers early]. It’s not something we had thought about

when we planned the program!” On the flip side, thanks to their

amazing 2019, Worobec is expecting a lot of interest from new

applicants.

Let’s face it: there is probably no other science department that

has the built-in appeal that brewing beer does, both for the students

and the public. But a little extra PR can’t hurt. Sometimes

it’s good to be the champ.

Dave Smith

Editor of What's Brewing & Beer Me BC, and past contributor

to various beer & liquor industry publications.

Craft beer fan since the late 1990s.

John is well aware of KPU’s benefits because Ravens’ head brewer

Dan Marriette was in the inaugural graduating class. Cole Smith,

Head Brewer at Dead Frog Brewery, also graduated in that class.

“I went into the program looking for some validation and credentials

for my passion and ended up with a whole lot more than

that,” Cole shares. “From being able to read MBAA technical papers

to orchestrating a scheduled microbiological monitoring regimen,

the KPU program really helped to bridge the gap between

art and science, and to tie all the loose ends together for me.”

Advisory Committee member Graham With is one of those homebrewers

who successfully transitioned into a head brewer’s position,

when Parallel 49 Brewing launched in 2012. He sees the

16 WHAT'S BREWING WINTER 2019-20


WOMEN IN BEER | profile

Q&A WITH NANCY MORE

INSTRUCTOR, BREWING & BREWERY OPERATIONS

PROGRAM, KWANTLEN POLYTECHNIC UNIVERSITY

>> LUNDY DALE

Nancy More is a true legend of

the brewing industry, in BC

and internationally. She has

done a lot for women in the

brewing world in her 40 years working

with beer, mostly without even trying. In

1985, she was appointed Head Brewmaster

at Oland’s Brewery in Saint John, New

Brunswick—the first female head brewer in

North America. She has since had stints in

Europe, the Ukraine, Russia, and back in BC.

She co-founded and teaches in the brewing

program at Kwantlen Polytechnic University.

In honour of a landmark anniversary and

all her contributions to the industry, the BC

Craft Brewers Guild announced a scholarship

in her name in October. To complement

that honour, Nancy received a Legend

award at the 2019 BC Beer Awards.

Nancy will always make time to help anyone

who has a question about the industry,

or about beer, especially over a beer. You

leave the conversation knowing more than

you thought there was possibly to know

about beer and wanting to know more. I

met Nancy a few years back at one of our

annual International Women’s Day Pink

Boots brew days. She attends as many of

these brews as her time allows and brings

female students with her. Last year she led a

large group of students and many KPU senior

faculty members to their first International

Women’s Day brew. We hope many

more will follow.

WINTER 2019-20 WHAT'S BREWING 17

Learning From a

LEGEND

HOW LONG HAVE YOU BEEN IN

YOUR PRESENT POSITION, AND

WHAT ROLE DID YOU PLAY AT

FIRST?

In October of 2014, Dominic Bernard and

I started to develop the curriculum for the

KPU Brewing program, so I helped shape

the content of the courses that were going to

be given. Dominic and I worked together to

ensure the individual courses included the

appropriate content, and that they built on,

and complemented, each other. Our goal

was to have graduates who understood

the fundamental science behind brewing

and could competently apply that in the

real world.

WHAT ROLE DO YOU PLAY

NOW?

KPU gave me the opportunity to come

out to Langley and teach one day a week,

so I started teaching in January of 2015.

I co-teach the Brewing Industry course

with Ken Beattie, and Microbiology

and Fermentation as well as Brewery

Management.

WHAT BROUGHT YOU INTO

THE INDUSTRY OVER 40 YEARS

AGO?

Like any university student, I liked to drink

beer. I worked at the Protein Lab at the

National Research Council in Saskatoon

the summer between my third and fourth

years at university. During that summer,

I met two people who had applied to, or

were in, the Labatt Breweries Technical

Training program. I thought that would

be fun, so when I went back to the U of

Alberta to finish my chemistry degree, I

decided to apply. Rumour has it that the

year I applied, people in operations at

Labatt were told they needed to start hiring

women. So, after three sets of interviews,

I was offered a position. I decided to take

it and stay until it wasn’t fun anymore. I

stayed with Labatt for 27½ years.

HOW WERE YOU TRAINED?

The training program was a three-year

experience where we did every job in the

brewery, studied the technical literature,

kept voluminous notes on what we were

learning and how it applied in the brewery,

and wrote exams on each section. We were

trained in brewing, packaging, distribution,

and quality, and acted as supervisors in the

areas we were being trained in at the end

of that section.

WHERE WERE YOU THE FIRST

FEMALE BREWMASTER IN

NORTH AMERICA?

In 1985, I was appointed as the Head

Brewmaster for Oland’s Brewery in Saint

John, New Brunswick. That was pretty

exciting, more for the opportunity to do the

job than for the distinction and publicity

that was given for being the first female.

And moving to the Maritimes was my first

experience in really learning how to work

in a (slightly) different culture.

WHAT WERE YOUR LAST

MAJOR JOBS?

I then moved from one coast of Canada

to the other, and I really loved my time

as the Brewery Manager at the Columbia

Brewery in Creston. The people at

Columbia have such great passion for what

they do, and they absolutely work together

in a team to make the best beer possible.

In 2001, I was given the opportunity to

move to Europe where SunInterbrew

had 14 breweries across Russia and the

Ukraine. Then InBev wanted to use my

combination of technical expertise and

business management experience to work

within the Global Technology Development

team. That was another exposure to

new ideas and new countries.

Finally, in 2005, Guinness came looking

for me, and I joined Diageo in London,

working in International Beer Supply. In

2006, I became Supply Director, which I

think was the type of role that I had been

looking for all my life.

Continued on page 19



Continued from page 17

WOMEN IN BEER | profile

Nancy accepts the second annual Legend award at

BC Beer Awards 2019. Bottom: she celebrates with

colleague DeAnn Bremner. Photos: B. K. Smith/

What's Brewing and J. P. Grafstein/JustJash

HOW DID YOU DISCOVER YOUR

PASSION FOR BEER?

I think what I originally loved was the

combination of art and science. At that time

(do I sound old?) we didn’t know much of

what we do now about the science behind it.

We had to trust the expertise of the people

that we learned from. And gradually, I

realized the great pride in being able to watch

people enjoy the beer that I brewed and know

that I was contributing to their celebrations.

DO YOU FEEL RESPECTED IN

YOUR PRESENT ROLE? HOW

HAS THIS CHANGED OVER YOUR

40 YEARS IN THE INDUSTRY?

I think there are two types of respect: respect

for position and respect for the person.

People who know me have the second, which

is more important to me. My CV acts as an

introduction to people who don’t know me

but understand that I wouldn’t have got

where I am unless I knew something.

I think that, in the brewing industry, what we

do and the passion that we all have for beer

is the same. We face the same challenges, but

the priorities differ depending on the scale

of the brewery. We always need to think

about what the right solution to the specific

situation is, which will depend on the size,

the priorities, the capabilities, the geographic

locations, etc.

HOW DO YOU FEEL ABOUT

BEING A MINORITY FEMALE

PRESENCE? DO YOU FIND

YOUR ROLE HAS BEEN A HELP

GETTING MORE WOMEN

INVOLVED?

When I started as a young woman, I think

I believed my gender wouldn’t make a

difference. My father always brought me up

to do whatever needed doing. I hope that I

have served as a role model to women and

that young women realize that there is a place

for them in this world.

IN 2018, YOU DECIDED TO LEAD

A PINK BOOTS BREW AT KPU.

DID YOU FEEL THAT IT WAS A

BENEFIT TO THE WOMEN AT

KPU?

I had a great time with all the women who

came to Langley last March 8. We also invited

the senior women from the other faculties at

KPU and I think that we opened their eyes

to what we were doing. In everything in life,

community is the source of much support

so the more we can build that community,

the stronger we will be together and as

individuals.

WHO IS YOUR FAVOURITE

FEMALE IN THE INDUSTRY AND

WHY?

Professor Inge Russell for her

ground-breaking research and persistence

in being a world-renowned researcher.

Claire Wilson for starting her own brewery

(Dogwood Brewing). Julia Hanlon

(Steamworks Brewing) for showing that you

can have a family and be a great brewer and

leader. Karyn Westmacott for her continued

passion on making better beer. And all

my wonderful female students who are so

successful. If I start calling them out, I’ll miss

some and I don’t want to do that. They know

who they are.

DO YOU HAVE ANY

SUGGESTIONS FOR WOMEN

GETTING INTO THE INDUSTRY?

Keep encouraging them, let them see the

successful women in our industry and know

that they can do it. Build a community that

they can see themselves as part of.

ANY GOALS FOR YOURSELF OR

KPU?

My goals are for the continued success of

the program, for our ability to develop

the brewers that the industry needs going

forward, and to get to a gender-balanced

program.

WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE BEER

OF THE BREWERY AND WHY?

KPU is always brewing new beers. Right

now, I have been drinking the Birra Rossa

that won at the BC Beer Awards.

WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE BEER

OUTSIDE OF YOUR BREWERY

AND WHY?

I have different beers that I drink depending

on the occasion. That is the joy of the craft

beer movement now; there are always new

things to try. So, I really move around to see

what others are doing. But there will always

be a soft spot for Guinness in my heart.

How can you not love a brand that has been

around for 250 years?

Lundy Dale

Lundy is a founder of CAMRA BC's

Vancouver chapter, Barley's Angels'

Pink Pints Chapter and BC

Craft Beer Month, Past President

of CAMRA BC, and the first ever

recipient of the very same BC

Beer Awards Legend award that

Nancy just won.

WINTER 2019-20 WHAT'S BREWING 19


AN IN-CIDER'S VIEW | cider

Harvesting The

Urban Orchards

>> JEFF NAIRN

You see the most when you’re really looking.

Our journey started over two years ago when my wife

Nathaly and I took a serious leap from home cider

production to a fully-fledged cidery, using apples from

city trees. The first promising tree we found was along Grandview

Highway, back from the road with a heck of a lot of apples that

seemed ready for picking at the end of August 2017. There are about

seven trees on that stretch—a mix of yellow crab apples and red

and green apples—but this one looked like the safest bet. Other

trees overhung the busy road and picking them would surely have

involved death-defying stunts.

The seed from an apple is a hybrid of its parents, like human babies.

That Grandview tree likely grew from a discarded apple core, and

we have no idea what kind it was; our best guess is a Baldwin cross.

We picked about 80 pounds from that tree: enough to ferment our

first 20 litres of 100% East Van Cider.

For the past three summers we’ve cycled up and down alleyways,

mapping apple trees. Last year we picked 1,000 pounds of

apples from about 25 trees throughout Vancouver, and this year

it grew closer to 4,000 pounds. This has opened our eyes to the

huge abundance of fruit growing just over our heads. This city

has hundreds of trees and many urban orchards growing with no

pesticides or pruning. Amazingly, many of these trees are heritage

varietals—Winesaps, Cox’s Orange Pippins, Winter Banana—

planted dozens of years ago by newcomers to the city.

One stretch of East 17th Avenue is lined with 15 apple trees. As far as

I can tell, they are Gravensteins. The trees are completely unpruned

and growing wild. In the autumn, Knight Street is lined with these

apples; they fall to the pavement and roll down the hill to meet their

fate. Along the way, they hit cars or roll through people’s yards. As

far as I can tell, no one knows how this urban orchard got there. The

City of Vancouver’s database of trees on public property lists the

species as Malus pumila but has no indication of when they were

planted. And that’s just one urban orchard we’ve visited.

There’s an ongoing project to rehabilitate the Copley Community

Orchard, located beside the SkyTrain line just north of Trout Lake.

A community group has been pruning and picking the older trees

in the park and planting and nurturing new trees. The group hosts

a pick-and-press in the fall and is always looking for help. Another

local community group maintains a small orchard in China Park

North.

One tree we’re especially fond of is on the way to our daughter’s

school in East Vancouver. The tree is old and, up until this past year,

was unpruned. The tenants of the property started taking care of

the tree last year and it now grows a lot of fruit. We’ve been told

it’s a Winesap apple tree, and this past year we picked close to 500

pounds from it and helped clean up fallen apples from their yard.

We’ve also found and picked a gigantic tree in the back yard of a

20 WHAT'S BREWING WINTER 2019-20 2018

Apple trees on Knight Street

convent in New Westminster, and an absolute giant of a tree in the

back yard of a stately home in Shaughnessy, among others.

The theme here is food waste and food security inside of our

city. Most of the fruit from these apple trees, as well as plums,

quince, pears, grapes and more, typically goes into the dumpster.

Fallen fruit attracts rats and racoons in the city, and bears on the

North Shore. It’s a shame that it creates such a problem, waste and

otherwise, but a family (or group of families) can only eat so many

apple pies and bottles of apple sauce every year.

Across the country, Canadians waste over $30 billion worth of

food per year. That is 47% of all the food produced in Canada,

which becomes over 25% of residential garbage in the city. We’re not

dealing with a lack of food supply, it’s a lack of proper distribution

that leaves people hungry.

HOW TO GET INVOLVED

The Vancouver Tree Fruit Project, headed by Maddie Hague,

collects unwanted fruit every year. They have a volunteer list

of close to 650 people, organized under eight pick leaders. The

picked fruit is donated to 17 community groups like Cedar

Cottage Neighborhood House and to charities like the United

Gospel Mission. Since they started in 1999, they have picked

over 70,000 pounds of fruit. This year alone, 61 picks gathered

4300 pounds — their best haul since 2014. There are groups in

Victoria and North Vancouver that also run the same sort of

program.

If you want to get involved, here are some great resources to

check out:

• Vancouver Tree Fruit Project

vancouverfruittree.com

• Find out what species your apple is:​

www.applename.com

• City of Vancouver list of street trees:​

data.vancouver.ca/datacatalogue/streetTrees.htm

• A map of fruit trees on Vancouver public property:​

publicfruitvancouver.blogspot.com

Jeff Nairn

is the co-founder of Windfall Cider, a craft cider producer

based in East Vancouver. His column tackles items fermented,

not brewed, focussing on issues related to BC's

burgeoning craft cider industry.



PRESENTS...

dark & SilkY

A Spotlight on Porter

Beer photography by Abby Wiseman

CHRIS BONNALLIE IS YOUR

CRAFT BEER EXPERT AT LEGACY

Got questions about craft beer? Talk to Chris!

Call 604.331.7900

chris@legacyliquorstore.com

LEGACY LIQUOR STORE

1633 Manitoba Street

Vancouver, BC V5Y 0B8

Online Orders:

info@legacyliquorstore.com

www.legacyliquorstore.com/shop


THIS ISSUE'S PANELISTS

WARREN ADAM ABBY MIKE CARNELL

Warren Boyer: BJCP Certified award-winning home and

commercial brewer, past President of CAMRA Vancouver and

Pacific Beer Chat member

Adam Chatburn: home and commercial brewer, cellarman, WB

columnist and past President of CAMRA Vancouver

THE ORIGINAL MACRO BEER

I

n 18th century London, before it became a beer, Porter first

meant "a labourer who carries things around at, say, the

docks." When a trend toward stronger, dark brown beer

developed that century, it took its name from those thirsty

workers because this is the style they drank...and they drank a lot

of it.

Considered by many to be the first industrially-brewed beer, its

demand created monster breweries in England (eg, Whitbread)

and Ireland (Guinness). Porter's value stemmed from its ability to

provide malty sugars (and a hit of alcohol) to those coping with a

bruising physical workload.

Once porter achieved its massive popularity, it gave name to a

place to drink it ('porter house'), a food (the steak), and an even

more dominant beer style ('Stout Porter', now just Stout). Its demand

was not without repercussions: raise a glass to those who

lost their lives in the most famous beer flood in history.

Abby Wiseman of Small Batch Vancouver reviews food & drink

Mike Garson, legendary founder of Mike's Craft Beer, Pacific

Beer Chat and Brew Crime, and occasional event judge

Carnell Turton of Breward Inlet: if the beer isn’t good he’ll say it

THE WINNER

Congrats to Four Winds for brewing a porter that

took first place hands-down amongst our panel.

We thank all participating brews, including the ones

which deviated from core style for the sake of variety.

OVERALL RATINGS

Scoring involves these five categories, for a total possible score of 30.

For a full list of individual scores, turn to next page.

WHAT WE SAMPLED

The beers evaluated this round included:

ABV

1. Backcountry Prestige Worldwide Robust 6.0%

2. Coal Harbour Charcoal Porter 5.8%

3. Dead Frog Black Frost Dry Hopped Porter 6.0%

4. Driftwood Blackstone Porter 6.0%

5. Four Winds Oat Porter 5.5%

6. VIB Nanaimo Bar Imperial Porter 8.2%

BALANCE: MALT VS. HOP

ENJOYMENT

Porter, like many English ales, is originally a very malty style.

DRINKABILITY

Pie chart tip: start at top of legend and work clockwise

from 45 degree mark (3 o'clock) >>

As noted already: porter was always meant to be a highly drinkable style.


WB SPRING TASTING PANEL RESULTS. MAXIMUM SCORE = 30

Backcountry Prestige ROBUST 21.0/30

2.2/3 3.6/6 2.0/3 5.6/8 7.6/10

Coal Harbour Charcoa

2.2/3 3.8/6

Note: neither What’s Brewing nor Legacy Liquor Store bear responsibility for the opinions expressed within, which are solely those of the individual panelists..

21

18

19

23

24

Deep dark brown with a rocky tan head. Head dissapeared quickly

with little lace. Roasted malt with light caramel flavours.

A great package from Backcountry. Great to see their stouts can hang

with their IPAs.

It’s a very complex beer with lots of high citrusy notes and a bitter

finish. I find it a bit unbalanced and feel like it could be rounded out

with more malt.

While I would not say this is a perfect robust porter (for me) it was

an enjoyable brew. It just seems to have more bitterness than I would

expect.

My wife says I may be scoring Porters low because I wish they were

stouts. While that may be true, if they all hit the bar Backcountry has

maybe I wouldn't be so Team Stout.

Driftwood Blackstone 22.6/30

2.4/3 4.4/6 2.2/3 6.0/8 7.6/10

24

26

19

Deep brown to black with a deep tan head. Roasty, coffee, chocolate.

Not sweet. Bold.

A really great porter, just the right blend of chocolate and treacle, thick

dark head and easy to drink. Excellent.

Generally a nice beer. Very middle of the road and sippable, but not

particularly memorable.

21

Seems more bitter than I would expect for a standard porter.

00

Toasty and roasty, without being so bold in any one area as to be

off-putting. A fine example of the style.

22

26

20

24

14

26

25

23

24

27

Deep brown with a rocky

with balanced hop bitterne

Really interesting beer; act

unexpected. Has a peculiar

Nice drinkable porter. Not

Just the right amount of bitt

brew. Definitely a well-mad

I taste the charcoal and som

love it to be more bold and

Four Winds Oat Porte

2.8/3 4.8/6

Deep brown to black with

Roasted coffee and chocol

Four Winds still crushing

Nicely balanced. Not ove

easy sip.

This is definitely a great o

zy beers and standard bee

When I reach for a Porter

body paired with nice roa

of oats, which imparts a ro

the Backcountry offering.

Warren

Adam Abby Mike Carnell


SEE WWW.WHATSBREWING.CA/TASTING-PANEL FOR FULL SET OF SCORES

l 21.2/30

2.0/3 5.8/8 7.4/10

Dead Frog Black Frost 18.0/30

2.6/3 3.8/6 1.8/3 4.6/8 5.2/10

tan head. Some lacing. Roasty and malty

ss.

ual charcoal at the bottom of the glass was

, slightly pleasant grittiness.

sure about where the charcoal fits in.

erness to match with the sweetness in this

e brew.

e dark chocolate which is fine, but I would

robust. As it is, it leaves me wanting more.

21

Hazy deep brown with a rocky tan head. Balanced hop presence.

18

14

20

17

The hops are a nice wrinkle, but as it warmed up toward the porter

flavours, the hops didn't help.

Didn’t love it. Hops left an odd sort of soapy aftertaste.

Definitely feels like it is more on the Black IPA or Cascadian Dark Ale

side than a Porter, for the amount of bitterness it has.

Juicy dark fruit flavours are most noticeable but not very welcome

in this Porter, which lacks the rich roasty flavours of a typical Porter.

This would be an interesting take on a Cascadian Dark Ale.

r 25.0/30

2.6/3 6.6/8 8.2/10

VIB Nanaimo Bar Imperial 19.0/30

2.4/3 3.6/6 2.0/3 5.2/8 5.8/10

a deep tan head. Decent lacing.

ate. Fruity with a bit of sweetness.

it: a great Porter all round.

rly intense in flavour, which makes it an

ne from a brewery that can make both crars

very well.

, this is the flavour profile I look for. Solid

sty malts. Really benefits from the addition

bust body, although not quite as robust as

21

17

Deep dark brown with a tan head. Some lacing. Vanilla and coconut

are subtle yet present. Roasted coffee notes and some warmth.

Mercifully, not too sweet. Another great entry from VIB, although it

didn't really give me a huge 'nanaimo bar' experience.

The malts fell flat in flavour, making for too much bitterness.

13

21

23

For a beer called Nanaimo Bar Porter, this beer tastes almost nothing

like a Nanaimo Bar and is quite bitter.

For my tastes this is a fine porter with a decent body. But am I missing

something? Where is that Nanaimo bar at?

Appearance Aroma Palate/Mouthfeel Flavour

Overall Impression


ULLAGE & SPILLAGE | opinion

Serving it Righteously

>> J. RANDOM

Change is good, as long as it represents progress (as

defined by me, of course). Self-serve craft beer bars are

progress, particularly for those of us not endowed with

patience. Rumours of their existence began filtering out

of the country to the south of us a few years ago, but only recently

did I get a chance to check them out. A trip to Denver for some

serious beer tourism had to include stops to see two different

systems in operation.

Pushing your fancy glass down

onto the unit opens the valve in

the bottom of the glass and starts

the flow of beer. Back at your

table, your glass leaks onto your

pants because the valves aren’t

perfect and they don’t provide

coasters.

At Broadway Market

First Draft Taproom and Kitchen is a craft beer bar in Denver’s

River North (RINO) district. RINO is an old industrial area full

of craft breweries, similar to Yeast Van, but with the bonus of

numerous bars and restaurants on the two main north-south streets.

At First Draft’s pay desk, you exchange your credit card for a fob

with an RFID chip. Applying the chip to the sensor next to the

tap of your choice activates that

tap. You pour any amount of beer

you want and are charged by

the ounce. You can have several

quick tasters or fill your glass, all

without waiting for a server. The

setup they have is from I Pour

It. Drink Command, ISuds, and

The Table Tap are three more

manufacturers of similar beerwall

systems. Some places use

cards or wristbands rather than

fobs, some work with an app

on your phone. In each case, the

electronics are sophisticated but

the taps are standard.

Closer to downtown Denver we

were guided to an even more

At First Draft Taproom and Kitchen

exotic system. Broadway Market is

like a food court, but with higher-class food and without the mall.

I suspected if I ate too much from one particular stall, my beard

would grow neater and bushier and I might develop a man-bun

in my bald spot. Again, you pick up an RFID card and you can

charge beer and food at any of the stalls. The big feature for us was

a Bottoms Up beer system with self-serve capability.

Fans attending games at BC Place will be familiar with Bottoms

Up dispensers where they are operated by serving staff. So when

are you going to be able to serve yourself at Lions and Whitecaps

games? The BC Liquor and Cannabis Regulation Branch said this

about how they’d respond to such an application:

• As part of government’s goals of safe establishments and

safe communities, self-service of liquor is not permitted in

British Columbia.

• In order to serve alcohol, licensees are required to ensure it is

poured by employees who are qualified through the Serving

It Right program.

• This helps ensure that patrons are not over-served, and that

they do not put themselves in a position that threatens their

own safety or the safety of others.

And that’s pretty much what you’d expect them to say. BC’s glacial

liquor law transition after Prohibition has taken nearly 100 years

already, so don’t look for beer walls in this province any decade

soon.

The closest places for British Columbians to experience this

phenomenon are Downtime Taps in Bellingham WA and Barney’s

Pub and Grill in Leduc AB. Clearly these are both towns where the

drinkers are so much more adult and responsible than the general

public in BC. Let us know if you find somewhere closer!

J. Random

is a former VP of CAMRA Vancouver, beer fan for 4 decades

and occasional homebrewer. Has been penning the

Ullage & Spillage column for What's Brewing since 2003.

26 WHAT'S BREWING WINTER 2019-20


THE DEATH OF CASKS

and my part in their downfall

Central City Summer Cask Festival 2018

>> ADAM CHATBURN

In 2013, I became president of the

Vancouver branch of the Campaign

For Real Ale BC (CAMRA BC), with

a mandate of modernization, greater

consumer advocacy, and membership

growth. I also had a private agenda: to

advance “real ale” in BC by curating cask

festivals, promoting cask nights, and

supporting establishments with a cask

focus. I took the “RA” in “CAMRA” to

heart.

Beer in BC has generally been served in

artificially-carbonated kegs rather than

naturally-conditioned casks. Craft brewers

keen to show off their art have produced

a few casks, particularly at brewpubs

and occasionally at beer festivals.

(CAMRA BC has always supported cask

events but, unlike the original CAMRA

UK, was never dogmatic about only promoting

cask-conditioned beer.)

By 2013, cask nights were everywhere.

Increasing the size and scope of the CAM-

RA Session Cask Festival may have boosted

the momentum of other cask events

such as the massively popular biannual

Central City Cask Festival and Hoppapalooza

at the Alibi Room. We helped

increase the attendance of cask meetups

at the Railway Club, Yaletown Brewing,

St. Augustine’s, The Whip, and others.

CRAFT Beer Market, Tap and Barrel

Olympic Village and Main Street Brewing

opened with casks on the menu; even

Parallel 49 Brewing put a beer engine in

their tasting room. Things seemed rosy

for casks when I left CAMRA after two

years to pursue my next phase in cask

domination: opening Real Cask at Yeast

Van’s Callister Brewing Co.

I spent my last farthing on casks, hops,

and sparklers, bringing a mix of classic

real ale and some new-world cask craziness

to Yeast Van. (Huge thanks to everyone

who contributed to my Kickstarter).

Word got around to the real ale enthusiasts

of the Pacific Northwest that something

was happening. A number of bars

approached me to have casks on tap but

I was careful to not overreach our miniscule

(7 hectolitres per month) capacity or

leave the Callister taproom short. I also

politely refused to supply those who had

no appropriate equipment or those lacking

interest in, or knowledge of, proper

cask management.

The author debuts Real Cask at

CAMRA Session Cask Fest, summer 2015

I offered training where possible, but

as I learned during my brief time as a

publican in Vancouver, staff turnover is

a massive problem. (I do love to teach,

but enthusing about a thousand years of

brewing history to largely-uninterested

servers every other month is not exactly

fun.) I decided to keep only a few key taps

and ensure they were well-served and

maintained.

During my three years at Real Cask, I only

occasionally supplied cask nights at other

places. Some places did not serve the

cask the way I felt it should have been

done (see my rants in early issues of WB).

I had my casks at festivals that passed

my quality tests, but these dwindled in

number and scope. Usually the casks for

these events were created from beer already

on tap at supplying breweries, and

some establishments expected them for

free. Economically, cask nights weren’t

profitable for me once I considered all the

costs. Hopefully they acted as an advertisement

for the Callister tasting room,

where I served cask beer the way I believe

it should be done. However, as everyone

knows, exposure doesn’t pay the bills.

In my last year with Real Cask (2017–

2018), I noticed a sharp drop-off of cask

nights around Vancouver. When the Alibi

Room quietly phased out their cask

program, the writing was on the wall.

Yaletown, CRAFT Beer Market, Railway

Club, St. Augustine’s, even Sundays at

The Whip, have all ended in quick succession.

Parallel 49’s new Street Kitchen

has 40 taps, but none are for casks. A few

establishments keep their beer engines as

breweriana furniture, but those previously

proud pumps are now just dusty relics

of a now unfashionable boondoggle.

I must, however, give serious props to

those who nevertheless persist in doing

great cask work, such as Sundown Brewing,

my old friend Bill Riley at Main Street

Brewing, and Moody Ales.

Cask festivals are now also few and far

between. The lovely folks at Tri-Cities

Cask Festival Society enjoyed great success

but have switched gears to open their

own brewery in Port Moody; at the time

Continued on page 28

WINTER 2019-20 WHAT'S BREWING 27


A VIEW FROM THE CELLAR | opinion

Continued from page 27

of writing there are no cask events scheduled. Central City’s

semi-annual cask events have bounced around two different locations

but don’t attract as many fervent cask fans as in the past.

The only other cask event in the GVRD is Caskapalooza at CRAFT

Beer Market.

CAMRA BC appears to have given up on organizing cask festivals.

The Powell River Craft Beer Festival, originally created by that

now-defunct local CAMRA branch, now operates independently

(as does Great Canadian Beer Festival, originally created by

CAMRA Victoria). CAMRA Vancouver’s tradition of Caskivals is

gone along with their former home, DIX BBQ & Brewery.

For many brewers, casks

are a big headache; they

resent having to fill pins

or firkins and come

up with ways to make

them different from the

base beer they’ve spent

months or even years

perfecting. As most are

trained in the art of keggery,

some resent the

unpredictable nature of

casks. There’s a longtime

dirty secret of casks being

filled with carbonated

beer from a keg. More

recently, there’s a trend

of blending two beers,

The author at Central City Cask Fest in 2016

most likely keg dregs,

into a cask. I’m not sure what the idea is, but it smacks of laziness

and is the antithesis of real ale.

While casks fade into obscurity in the Lower Mainland they remain

in some measure around the province, but as with many

beer trends I have a sneaking suspicion that over time they will

follow GVRD’s lead. Kegs and cans will continue their march of

destiny over the real ale that CAMRA UK was founded to protect

almost 50 years ago.

Changes in taste might be one reason for the decline. Drinkers

whose preference leans to lager, cloudy IPA, or sours seem to

have no interest in casks. Another reason might well be the North

American obsession with carbonation—something casks can’t do

well. There’s also a consistency problem. There have been plenty

of bad casks; even the best festivals have only had about a 75%

strike rate in my opinion.

But I think the main problem is that the poor cask handling at

many pubs and events has made people think they don’t like

casks. And that’s a perfectly reasonable response to many of the

chewy, lumpy abominations that have been served.

I tried my best, but it seems casks are on the way out. If there’s a

positive to take from this, it’s that there’s so much variety now (in

both beer styles and events) that a cask, previously an interesting

and unique creation, simply gets lost in the shuffle. They had a

great run and while they’ll persist in a few places, their decline is

well underway. Farewell, my firkin lovelies.

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@real_cask on Instagram and @realcask on Twitter. He

doesn’t post very much but when he does it’s awesome.

28 WHAT'S BREWING WINTER 2019-20


BRING YOUR PORTER TO THE SLAUGHTER | opinion

WAX ON,

WAX OFF!

On the Folly of Wax Dipping

Beer Bottles

>> ED KAYE

It’s that wonderful time of year when breweries inundate us

with big boozy beers like imperial stouts, barley wines, baltic

porters, wee heavys, eisbosks, wheat wines, quads, golden

strongs… I might be drooling on my keyboard a bit right now.

There’s nothing like walking into the liquor stores and seeing the

shelves stacked with gorgeous wax-capped bottles filled with highgravity

delights. I really love the way they look and appreciate all

the work that goes into hand-dipping them. But when I’m two

barley wines deep and trying to hack through the wax with a knife

or melt it off with a flame, I remember that I kinda hate these stupid

things!

“But Ed,” you protest, “wax dipping bottles allows you to put your

beers in the cellar, so they can be aged and matured for several

years!” Well, I call B.S. on that!

The argument is that the wax impedes the ingress of air into the

bottle, preventing oxidation. But don’t crimped crown caps already

serve that function? Are we expected to believe that a thin layer of

wax is less permeable to air than a thick piece of steel? Seems legit!

No proper scientific studies have ever been conducted on the

efficacy of wax dipping beer bottles at preventing oxidation.

And even if it were proven effective, most oxidation is caused

by dissolved oxygen that is already in the beer, or trapped in the

headspace before sealing.

And why do we even age beers? Putting aside the fact that many

people age beers that really don’t need to be aged, or that just plain

shouldn’t be aged (I’ll save that for a separate rant), we want to allow

certain harsh flavours and aromas to become more subtle. Is your

American barley wine too hoppy and bitter, your 16% Bourbon

Barrel Aged Imperial Stout too boozy? Leave it to age for a few

years, and in theory you will be left with something akin to the

nectar of the gods.

We’ve inherited this from the wine world: the idea of a cellar packed

full of rare libations, waiting for the perfect time to be opened and

enjoyed. Apart from the fact that most beer nerds use the cupboard

under the sink to age beers rather than a vaulted cellar, there’s a

very important distinction between these two worlds: when you

store beer, you should always stand it upright, to prevent the metal

cap from contaminating the beer; when you age wine, you should

store it on its side. Taking inspiration from the latter, traditional

Belgian lambic producers actually put corks in their beer and even

recommend storing them horizontally.

Want to know why they recommend this? First you want to stop the

cork drying out, but also, you want to increase the surface area of the

liquid exposed to the oxygen in the bottle. Wait, what? Why would

you want that? It’s because you actually want a little oxidation! It’s

part of what causes beer to ”age”—though there are several other

factors at play in the process.

To sum: if you want your beer to change with age, you actually need

a little oxidation—you don’t want to hermetically seal it away from

the ravages of time. That’s why we do this after all, we don’t want it

to taste the same as it did on the day we bought it. Plus, wax sucks

at what it is supposed to do anyway. My vote is for cork and cage;

those Belgians know what they are doing!

Still, there is something breathtaking about a thick drip of wax

running down a bottle label. With the shift to canning, I wonder

when we will start to see wax-dipped cans. That sounds like a fresh

vision of hell!

Ed Kaye

is an Associate Editor at What's Brewing and writes the

weekly Events column for Hopline e-news. He operates

the amazing blog Bring Your Porter To The Slaughter.

Image: Fernie Brewing

WINTER 2019-20 WHAT'S BREWING 29


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1-778-320-3409

Info@CanadianCraftTours.ca


By

Illustration: Montevarious


“I wouldn’t let anyone

else touch my handles.”

- Marc Roberts, co-founder Backcounty Brewing Co.

See us for

unique beer

gift items

for the holiday

season!

SmoothEdge-ad-Nov2019-V3.indd 1

2019-11-04 9:16:56 AM

CRAFT Beer Market: Gift Card Bonus!

Gift and you shall receive! This holiday season, receive a

bonus $10 gift card for every $50 worth of gift cards purchased.

Available in-store or online!

CRAFT Beer Market: 85 West 1st Avenue, Vancouver BC

www.craftbeermarket.ca/vancouver/giftcards

The

Because sometimes It’s Good To Be Empty-Handed!

Where do lucky people at beer festivals get those amazing

handsfree tasting glass holders you've seen? From us! Completely

adjustable, holds any size glass from tiny taster to fullsized

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Only $10, including tax & shipping within Canada! What a great

stocking stuffer for a beer lover. whatsbrewing.ca/beercaddy

What's Brewing: One year home delivery!

Like to read What’s Brewing in hardcopy? Don’t

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Fully adjustable Beer Caddy holds any size of tasting glass


HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE

seasonal

Beverages

BC Brewery Winter Boxes!

Great Canadian Outdoor Adventure Pack from

Central City Brewing

Come along on a craft beer adventure

with 24 days of delicious, never

before experienced craft beers

in 500mL cans. From fruit

flavor infusion to barrel aged

beers and cocktail inspirations,

this advent calendar is

your ticket to counting down

towards the holidays with 24 brand

new Red Racer beers.

Space Case by

Phillips Brewing

Beer. It's the most convenient gift for both the

giver and the recipient.

Gone are the days when anyone has "tried

all the beers out

there." Here are

some beer and

cider gifts for

those from

newbie to

advanced.

Phillips’s largest

mystery pack to date

includes 12 x 650ml

exclusive and never released

beers from our

tasting room crammed

into one limited edition case.

Out of this world and into your fridge.

Holiday Gift Baskets from Legacy Liquor Store!

Legacy is making gift-giving easy with custom beer baskets. Have

a beer style or brewery in mind? Their beer team will work with

you to put together the perfect gift. Or choose one of the readyto-crack

set at legacyliquorstore.com/shop

Merridale Craft Cider

Merridale’s iconic Scrumpy and Cyser ciders are robust

and distinctive. Perfect winter sippers, Scrumpy is a dry, yet

full-bodied barrel-aged cider and Cyser is rich and bold

with apple blossom honey.

merridale.ca/cidery

Dead Frog: Seasonal Beers and Mixer Packs!

Give the gift of extraordinary craft beer this holiday season.

Winter beers like our Mandarin Orange Kettle Sour and

Nutty Uncle Peanut Butter Stout are the perfect gift for the

craft beer lover in your life! Find our brews in bottles, cans,

and the Dead Frog Dozen Mixer Pack. deadfrog.ca


HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE

TOURing & TASTING

A gift card for a brewery tour is a super way to

treat a loved one to a great day or night out on

the town (especially if you get to come along).

So are early bird beer festival tickets!

3rd Annual Craft Beer and Wilderness Retreat!

Craft Beer and Wilderness, June 6-10, 2020 at the Nootka

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2 Registered Massage Therapists, 1 naturalist, 1 historian, 2

hosts and 35 lucky guests combine to create an unforgettable

food and beer experience unlike anything else!

Book by Jan 1, 2020 to Save $500.

www.craftbeerandwilderness.com

Vancouver Brewery Tours

What to get for the beer lover who has all the "stuff"?

How about the ultimate craft beer experience with

Vancouver Brewery Tours. Gift Certificates are available for

purchase in our online shop and make the perfect

holiday gift.

Canadian Craft Tours

Give the gift of a libation experience this Holiday season. Gift

cards give that special someone a night out with friends or

to meet new people while having an entertaining and educational

experience at local breweries or wineries.

www.canadiancrafttours.ca

vancouverbrewerytours.com/shop


$5 OFF All-Access and General Admission tickets with promo code WHATSBREWING2020

Whistler Village

Beer Festival

Beer in the mountains -

it just feels right!

Join us on September 19 & 20

for the Whistler Village Beer Festival.

www.wvbf.ca

Great Okanagan

Beer Festival

The Great Okanagan Beer Festival,

presented by The Train Station Pub, is

returning to Kelowna on May 9th.

Last year sold out so get your tickets now!

www.gobf.ca

Clover Valley

Beer Festival

Over 40 breweries will come together

#Fortheloveofbeer at the 3rd annual

Clover Valley Beer Festival, presented by

The Property Twins, on August 8, 2020!

www.cvbf.ca

25th Annual Okanagan Fest of Ale

Join us for our biggest party yet on April 17 & 18 in Penticton!

Early Bird tickets on sale just in time for the holiday season.

Early Bird until Jan 15: $25 Single Day or $42 Weekend Pass

Sip and stay packages starting at $120! .

Tickets on sale December 1st at www.festofale.ca

Victoria Beer Week 2020

Victoria Beer Week is back! With over 14 events across

9 days featuring 50 BC craft breweries, tickets to VBW 2020

are the perfect gift for the beer lover in your life.

Tickets on sale Nov 29th at www.victoriabeerweek.com


36 WHAT'S BREWING WINTER 2019-20

# meetthenewrussell

TP-WhatsBrewing-Red-Ad2-1.pdf 1 2017-08-13 6:55 PM


BEER GIFTS

HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE

Books &

Reading

>> TED CHILD

If you’re shopping for a BC beer lover this season and they

haven’t read Island Craft by Jon C. Stott then congratulations—

your search for the perfect gift is over. (For an extended

review and why this book is a must read, see my article in the

Summer 2019 issue of What’s Brewing.) However, if you're looking

for even more books about drink to gift this season, there is much

to think about. With the golden age of beer in full swing, there has

also been a revolution in craft spirits. Publishers have taken notice,

and it’s been good year (or two) for books about spirits, specifically

Canadian spirits.

BOOKS ABOUT BEER

However essential the BJCP style guidelines are, they are not great

fun to read. The Brewers Association’s style guide, The Guide

to Craft Beer, is just as informative but is an easier and a more

engaging read. Fifteen style families are broken down into 81 styles

and the listings are very up to date. As the title implies, this book

focuses primarily on modern craft beer and the latest interpretations

of styles, without getting bogged down in historical detail. The

listings also include glassware and food pairing suggestions, unlike

the BJCP guidelines. But the Guide to Craft Beer’s finest characteristic

may be its dimensions: it’s perfect to pop in your purse or pants

pocket on the way to the festival, bottle shop, or taproom.

Beer at My Table by Canadian chef Tonia Wilson is the beer

cookbook you’ve been waiting for. The opening chapters are some

of the best explanations of beer and food pairings you’ll find. The

recipes are mouthwatering, approachable, and motivating, and

each is paired with a classic beer style. Wilson recommends a

specific product with each recipe but also suggests some backups

and explains why that beer and that beer style pairs well with the

recipe. For anyone interested in beer and food pairings, I cannot

recommend this book enough.

A bit further afield we have Viking Age Brew: The Craft of Brewing

Sahti Farmhouse Ale by Mika Laitinen. Sahti is one of the most

unique beer styles in existence today and provides a look at one

of the last remaining preindustrial brewing cultures. Much like

Jeff Alworth’s Brew Masters, you would be greatly diminishing

Laitinen’s work if you just thought of this as a home brewing book

on a very obscure style. Almost three-quarters of the book explores

the tradition and culture of Sahti brewing; only the last bit is devoted

to doing it yourself.

Laitinen knows his subject very well, having spent extensive time

with the Sahti masters, thoroughly investigated the ethnographic

data, and brewed the beer himself. The bibliography is impressive.

Even if you only have a passing interest in Sahti and pre-modern

brewing, this book may have you thinking seriously about that

stovetop kitchen recipe.

BOOKS ABOUT SPIRITS

For the English Lit majors on your list, look no further than A

Sidecar Named Desire: Great Writers and the Booze That Stirred

Them. There are undoubtedly many great beer, wine, and spirits

writers both past and present, but none of them are James Joyce,

William Faulkner or Carson McCullers. However intimate the

relationship between humankind and alcohol, it’s even more

pronounced between great artists, particularly writers, and booze.

Alcohol was often important, if not essential, to many great writers’

processes. Not all of these stories end well (for example, Malcolm

Lowry). This extensively illustrated book distills what the great

writers had to say about booze. Want to know where Maya Angelou

kept her sherry? How about Jane Austen’s recipe for spruce beer?

You’ll find them here.

I am fond of the writing of Stephen Beaumont (as I wrote in my

article in the 2018 issue of What’s Brewing), and was excited

when Stephen told me he was working on a book about Canadian

distilling. In Canadian Spirits, Beaumont teams up with wellknown

spirits writer Christine Sismondo to write the book that

was begging to be written. It’s a broad field, but this book avoids

becoming overwhelming by focusing on just the spirits that

distilleries believe most represent them. It’s a great way to discover

or rediscover some of the amazing and diverse spirits being made

in this country. Showcased within: the author of our next book.

So you have all these new and exciting choices in Canadian spirits,

but what to do with them? Let some of Canada’s best bartenders,

from small town to big city, give you some ideas. Great Northern

Cocktails is the new book by Shawn Soole, a fixture in the Victoria

cocktail culture and an essential participant in its ongoing evolution.

This book’s great strength, apart from the amazing recipes, is that

Soole leaves no reader behind. Each recipe is graded for difficulty

(with one, two, or three asterisks) and the book includes a nice mix of

all three levels. The preparation section is detailed and the glossary

will help even a novice. This book features some of Canada’s most

creative bartenders, but don’t let that intimidate you. The recipes

are tasty, and the short biographies of the bartenders are inspiring.

Your home bartending skills are about to get much better.

Ted Child

is a Recognized BJCP Beer Judge and award-winning

homebrewer. He is also What's Brewing's in-house book

reviewer. Look for his assessments of the latest beer

books and publications in each issue

WINTER 2019-20 WHAT'S BREWING 37


HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE

HOMEBrewing

Need ideas for a thoughtful gift the homebrewer

in your life will use and appreciate?

We’re here to help.

- Warren Boyer, Homebrew Happenin's

BREWING EQUIPMENT

ThermoWorks

Thermapen Mk4 is

a highly accurate

digital thermometer

that gives a reading in 2

to 3 seconds.

The probe folds

into the body

for protection

in storage. I

keep mine in the

kitchen and use it

for cooking as well.

TILT Hydrometer is a free-floating digital

hydrometer and thermometer. This

device floats in your fermenter for

continuous real-time monitoring

of the gravity and

temperature. It connects

via Bluetooth to your

tablet or smart phone so you

can monitor and track progress

without needing to open

the fermenter. Cool gadget for

homebrewers.

Every homebrewer can appreciate

a good pump.

The Blichmann Rip Tide

Brewing Pump is deluxe

option. I have a Chugger

Brew Pump that has been

great. And don’t forget the

fittings to connect the new

pump to the hoses that will connect

to a mash tun or kettle. The two

easiest to use types of fittings are Camlock

and Tri-Clamp. Preferences vary, so

maybe give a gift card for this.

INGREDIENTS

Something every brewer needs.

A 25-kilogram bag of Bohemian

floor malted pilsner

from Weyermann would make

a lovely gift for the all-grain

brewer.

Good things also come in small

packages. For example, packets

of dry yeast or one-ounce bags

of Cryo Hops can make for

stocking stuffers.

Dry Yeast

Safale S-04

and US-05 are

both versatile

ale yeasts. The

S-04 is more

suited to British

styles while

the US-05 is

better for American style

ales. Saflager

W-34 is a

good lager

yeast.

CLEANERS AND

SANITIZERS

A good brewery cleaner like Powdered

Brewery Wash (PBW) makes

cleanup more effective. A quality

sanitizer such as Star San

will make sure the final

product is of the

highest quality

and not tainted

by unwanted

organisms.

Hops are commonly sold in 1-ounce bags. Cryo Hops—a concentrated

version of hop pellets— are a new thing your brewer might be delighted

to experiment with. Pro tip: pick a variety that starts with a ‘C’ if you’re

not sure.

BOOKS

Books are always good, and brewing books are even better.

Brewers looking to improve their scores at homebrew contests

could benefit from Brewing Classic Styles: 80 Winning

Recipes Anyone Can Brew by John Palmer and Jamil Zainasheff

or Designing Great Beers: The Ultimate Guide to Brewing Classic

Beer Styles by Ray Daniels.

Dave Miller’s Homebrewing Guide could be useful for a new

brewer.

Adventurous brewers might enjoy Radical Brewing: Recipes,

Tales and World-Altering Meditations in a Glass by Randy

Mosher.

Advanced brewers will love the four-book Brewing Elements

series from Brewers Publications:

For the Love of Hops: The Practical Guide to Aroma, Bitterness

and the Culture of Hops.

Water: A Comprehensive Guide for Brewers.

Malt: A Practical Guide from Field to Brewhouse.

Yeast: The Practical Guide to Beer Fermentation.

38 WHAT'S BREWING WINTER 2019-20


WE'RE OPEN IN OUR NEW LOCATION!

Same great prices and service, even better selection of grain,

hops and yeast!

Did we mention that real soon now you’ll be able to buy a beer while you’re here?

And that there will always be at least two pro brewers around to answer

questions—and sometimes as many as four or five? That’s because we’re also

going to become (very soon!) Port Moody’s next Craft brewery,

Fraser Mills Fermentation Co (FMFC). Our focus is going to be on making authentic,

delicious beer, cider, mead, and wine. And if you like that beer you tried in the tasting room,

why not pick up our recipe and ingredients and make it at home!

You’ll find us at 3044 St Johns Street

(2 Buildings east of our former location)

Want to know more and check on our progress?

Give us a Facebook like @frasermillsfc

check out frasermillsfermentation.com

or give us a call 604 461 8891

WINTER 2019-20 WHAT'S BREWING 39


OUT & ABOUT | touring

ON WINTER, AND COLD

WEATHER BEER MEMORIES

>> SCOTTIE MCLELLAN

Winter can be a time to reflect on days past, when

one delighted in winter ales and warmers that took

the chill from the bones on long cold nights, while

bringing a glow of contentment we looked for in a

good jar.

I have often travelled to the UK to be a beer tourist. Many of those

trips happened in winter, and it was a great joy to find pubs known

for good beers and go in for a pint or two of cheer. Coming into

historical premises on a cold night to a warm fire and taps of handpulled

real ales was always a joy. The British knew how to brew

beers designed for the cold winter nights and I cozied up to a few

in friendly locals up and down the country.

Winter ales were mostly spiced and flavourful ales brimming with

aroma and taste. Although UK beers were not strong, they were

a bit stronger in winter to bring that glow and cheer I described

earlier.

The winter ales of this generation still tie in to the UK style

in many traditional offerings. The thing about growing older

and having memories, it allows me to be thankful for where

we are today, while having enjoyed the years of beer travelling in

a land that always had a beer for every season.

If you became known by the publican or landlord of the

establishment, you might be offered bottles of room-temperature

winter or spiced ale they kept on hand for the regulars—a kind of

honour for an outsider.

The UK was by no means the only country where I enjoyed winter

travels and spiced and warming winter beers. Almost every brewing

country in Europe offered something similar.

I travelled to Britain for the beer and pubs and the people we

could meet. We had nothing like it in Canada at the time, and these

experiences built and encouraged the resolve and dream of Canada

someday being what it is today; a place of good beer and good food,

good pub atmosphere and great socialization.

John Mitchell and I talked about these things on many occasions,

chatting about what beers from Dorset would be on offer and

talking fondly of the warm fires in the pubs on blustery nights.

“I was in this pub in Penzance one blustery night when...”

Scottie McLellan

is a craft beer industry veteran and longtime supporter

of BC’s Craft Beer Movement. He has written for What's

Brewing for over a quarter century.

POWELL RIVER’S FRIENDLY

NEIGHBOURHOOD

BREWERY

Each pub in each part of the country had its own special beers

it served in the cold winter months. Every region had traditions

regarding the ale and the way it was served, right down to the glass

it was served in.

+196244

40 WHAT'S BREWING WINTER 2019-20


NORTHERN BC

WINTER

WONDERLAND

of Craft Beer in the North

>> ADAM ARTHUR

As autumn turns to winter, beer folks look forward to

enjoying new beer releases at their local craft breweries,

craft-focused establishments, festivals, or at home by

the fire on a snowy night.

Winter in the north offers many delicious seasonals to enjoy.

Here in Prince George, Raven Schwartzbier by Trench Brewing &

Distilling is an absolute treat. The aptly named Cinders Red Rye

Ale from CrossRoads Brewing is great to sip by a nice glowing

fire. Snowdance Porter from Valemount’s Three Ranges Brewing is

absolutely delicious. The 52 Foot Stout from Quesnel’s Barkerville

Brewing is always something to look forward to. Finally, the

Blacksmith Brown Ale from Prince Rupert’s Wheelhouse Brewing

is perfect to enjoy in an Old English pub.

185 DAVIE STREET QUESNEL, BC

Phone: 1-778-414-2739

Fax: 1-778-414-1099

Toll Free: 1-855-922-7537

STAKE YOUR CLAIM

TO THE QUESNEL CRAFT BREWERY

WHOSE AWARD WINNING BEERS

TELL THE STORY OF BC'S HISTORIC

CARIBOO GOLD RUSH

• Licensed Lounge & Tasting Room

• Locally-Sourced Food & Snacks

• Kids & Pets Are Always Welcome

• Get Your Growlers Filled Today

Email: info@barkervillebeer.com

Web: www.barkervillebeer.com

Social: @BarkervilleBeer

The past few months have featured a number of terrific beer events in

the North. The first annual 100 Mile House Craft Beer Festival took

place in September, showcasing the town’s craft brewer, Jackson’s

Social Club & Brewhouse. Also in September, the creatively-named

first annual Liquefied Natural Grains (LNG) Beer Festival took

place in Fort St. John, BC. And the Williams Lake Beer Fest, hosted

by the Sugar Cane Development Corporation, took place in October,

featuring craft breweries from BC and beyond. This is a different

event from the annual Williams Lake Craft Beer Festival, which

is held every February. Looking forward, the annual Kiwanis Ale

Fest will be returning in Prince George in January.

In craft brewery and craft-focused tap house news, the owners

of the Roadhouse restaurant in Arras, west of Dawson Creek, are

planning to open the Post & Row Local Taphouse in Dawson Creek,

and a brewery is rumoured for this establishment, too. Black Sheep

Brewing will eventually become the third craft brewery in Fort St.

John. Ursa Minor Brewing is coming to Burns Lake, and there’s a

rumor about a craft brewery planned for Haida Gwaii.

With the variety of beer styles coming out of these amazing

craft breweries, the fantastic people who make up the craft beer

community, and the great places and events to enjoy it all, there’s

truly something to celebrate about Northern BC craft beer.

Adam Arthur

is a craft beer fan since 2010 who’s glad to represent

Northern BC and the city of Prince George. He supports

Independent craft breweries in (and outside of) BC.

BEERS TO TOAST YOUR ULTIMATE MOMENTS

623 8TH AVE N, GOLDEN, BC

PHONE: 250-344-2838

WINTER 2019-20 WHAT'S BREWING 41


BEERS, BEACHES & BREWERIES | regional report

OKANAGAN

TASTING WINTER IN PENTICTON

>> KIM LAWTON

The craft beer scene is awesome year-round in the Okanagan,

BC’s four-season playground. In the heart of wine country,

Penticton is quickly proving to be one of BC’s best craft

beer towns, with six (soon to be 7) breweries.

Construction at Penticton’s 7th brewery, Neighbourhood Brewing,

is well underway. It should be operational before Okanagan Fest

of Ale, coming up in April. In the meantime, Neighbourhood is

producing their beer at Bad Tattoo, so watch for it in cans at liquor

stores and on tap at restaurants around BC.

Penticton’s craft breweries are within a few minutes of each other,

so you can easily visit all of them. Pick up a Penticton Ale Trail

passport at any of the breweries, and get it stamped at each one for

your chance to win a quarterly Penticton Ale Trail prize package.

Download the BC Ale Trail app and collect points on your travels.

If you are coming from the Lower Mainland, take the scenic drive

along Highway 3 through Hope and stop at Oliver’s Firehall

Brewery. Seek out their Wolf Tree Coffee Company collaboration

called "WTF" Coffee Blonde (Wolf-Tree-Firehall), which will be out

in time for Christmas. They will also be launching a Scotch Ale

for Robbie Burns Night. Plan a winter getaway to coincide with

Firehall’s 1st annual Oliver Comedy Blizzard at the Oliver Theatre

on January 16th.

Head north from Penticton to Summerland to visit Detonate

Brewing’s new larger taproom, and recently-opened Breakaway

Brewing. There are also lots of exciting things happening in

Kelowna’s craft beer scene.

Combine your love of mountain life and craft beer at Brewski on

February 8th. Brewski is a super cool craft beer, spirits and cider

festival held at The Gunbarrel Saloon at Apex Mountain. Your

Brewski ticket also gives you a discount on lift passes. There is

nothing better than hitting the slopes during the day and enjoying

craft beverages, appies and live entertainment in the evening. This

event sells out quickly, so watch for tickets to go on sale in December

via Eventbrite.

Excitement is already percolating for the 25th annual Okanagan

Fest of Ale on April 17th and 18th in Penticton. Early bird tickets

are on sale now, plus there are some great Sip & Stay ticket and

accommodation packages. Plan to join us in Penticton for the

biggest party yet and help us say cheers to 25 years! Whether you’ve

attended every Fest of Ale or you’ve never been, the 25th annual

festival is one to mark on your calendars now.

For those that want to get a head start on training, early bird

registration is underway for the June 13th Penticton Beer Run.

Enjoy a taste of Penticton with a number of delicious winter beers.

Bad Tattoo is launching a Finnish style Sahti in December. This

dark ale was brewed over Juniper branches. It’s a higher alcohol

beer great for the cold days of winter. Watch for it in 473ml cans

and on draught.

42 WHAT'S BREWING WINTER 2019-20

Festival goers are getting ready for Penticton's 25th annual

Okanagan Fest of Ale, April 17&18, 2020.

Sticking with the dark, soul-warming beer theme, the Barley Mill

will have an Irish Red Ale and their signature Filly Black Lager for the

winter, plus a busy events schedule to keep you hopping.

Cannery Brewing will have a variety of stouts to keep you warm.

Darkling Oatmeal Stout and Heist Maple Stout are both back in

473ml cans featuring new labels. Watch for the launch of Kindling,

a delicious Imperial Stout brewed with coffee, chocolate, oats and

coconut. It will be available in 473ml cans at private liquor stores

around BC in time for Christmas.

Highway 97 has three seasonal winter beers. Fresh Tracks Winter

Cream Ale features seasonal notes of cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice,

clove and ginger. Bumbleberry Pie Saison is a Dutch-inspired saison

with late harvest berry fruit. Finally, watch for their Salted Chocolate

Porter, a light-bodied porter with a healthy dose of Himalayan salt

and chocolate malts.

Slackwater Brewing is heating things up with a new food menu,

table service and a full-on events calendar. They’ve got 3 new beers

including Idleback Amber and Solitude Amber Saison which will be at

select bars and restaurants across the Lower Mainland, Sea to Sky

country and the Okanagan. They are also launching a light-bodied,

yet complex and robust porter called Deepwater Porter on draught

and in 473ml cans.

Tin Whistle has released their winter stout called The Extortionist,

a hazelnut espresso using direct trade coffee beans from Seis Cielo

roastery in Penticton. Their popular Chocolate Cherry Porter will

also be back in time for Christmas. These beers will be available in

650ml bombers and on draught in the Okanagan and Vancouver.

Until next time, cheers!

Kim Lawton

is a craft beer fan, a long-time supporter of the craft beer

movement, President of CAMRA South Okanagan and

the Marketing Director at Cannery Brewing in Penticton.

Kim can be reached via Twitter @DogLegMarketing



VANCOUVER ISLAND

HAVE CAMERA, WILL TRAVEL | touring

CRAFT BEER & WILDERNESS

A World-Class Experience in BC's Own Backyard

>> BRIAN K. SMITH

This past June, I returned to Nootka Sound on the west coast

of Vancouver Island for a very special event: the second

annual Craft Beer & Wilderness experience (CBW),

hosted by Brad and Dennyse Harris. On a beautiful sunny

morning in Comox, a group of avid beer and food lovers boarded a

bus for a five-day adventure.

The size of the event and the remoteness of the location brought

definite logistical challenges. There was the matter of transporting

the beer Brad collected from brewers on the Lower Mainland,

Sunshine Coast, and the Island. There was also the glassware

(1200 pieces), brewing equipment, kegerators, and other details to

take care of. The result of their dedication was a five-day itinerary

that allowed for education, exercise and relaxation, beer tasting

and exceptional food pairing experiences.

New at the event this year: a daily tasting session led by two Cicerones

® . Day One’s session focused on pilsners and lagers: a very

enjoyable way to get our feet wet. Most of the participants over 40

grew up on these styles of beers. After the hazy IPA trend, many

craft beer artisans seem to be focusing on pilsners, Kolsch and

lagers, which are a bit more challenging as they need to be fermented

and aged at cool temperatures.

Day Two’s tasting was IPAs. Everyone has their favorite IPA

and there is a lot of mainstream consumption of this style of ale.

They’re higher in alcohol, and our host noticed the volume level

of conversation in the room go up as the ales were consumed.

Fortunately, lunch was served right after.

The next day, our tasting session focused on sours. I have liked

them from the start, but many of my beer friends find them challenging.

There seemed to be a few more fans of the style by the

end of this educational tasting.

Each year, Brad invites three outstanding brewers to participate

in the brewing of a Nootka beer. Local botanicals scavenged from

nearby beaches and forests are used to create a unique brew that

is later shared with all those who attended. All three brewers collaborate

in the decision and Brad helps out with his ideas. This

is really at the heart of this experience. The three craft breweries

for 2019 were represented by Kent Courtice from Boombox, Tristan

Stewart from Luppolo Brewing Company/Temporal Artisan

Ales, and Brian MacIsaac and Lucas Parks from Crannog Ales.

Surprise guest: nano brewer Dave Paul from Love Shack Libations

in Qualicum. All the brewers brought lots of their highly

sought-after beers to share.

The food pairing was ramped up for year two. Breakfast was traditional,

but lunch and dinner were extravaganzas: ale cheeses,

beer burgers, foie gras, lamb and elk. Not only did the kitchen

work hard, but the smoker out on the deck produced the most

delicious creations each day.

After lunch and a presentation by a local historian, a group of

guests boarded a sport fishing boat for a 30-minute high-speed

trip to the entrance of Friendly Cove. There we visited a fallen

totem, a church, a lighthouse and the open Pacific Ocean beaches.

It was easy to imagine the Spanish fort in the entrance of the bay

and the Mowachaht/Muchalaht village of 1500 people that filled

the cove back in 1778 when Captain James Cook arrived.

Our final night included an amazing dinner: each course paired

with a beer presented by its brewer. It was about bringing together

all elements into each meal.

I had a chance to sit down with each of the brewers and talk about

their experiences at CBW 2019. Kent Courtice told me the brew

day was fantastic and a lot of fun. “My passion has always been

Continued on page 46

44 WHAT'S BREWING WINTER 2019-20


CanneryBrewing.com

CRAFT BEER, FISHING, AND COMMUNITY.

We're Open and Brewing! Visit us at 760 Vaughan Ave, Kelowna, BC

WINTER 2019-20 WHAT'S BREWING 45


Continued from page 44

homebrewing,” he related. “I like to see everyone set up. Everyone

does something different, has different equipment, different

techniques, but ultimately it makes a great beer, no matter how

you do it.” He enjoyed seeing Brad‘s setup.

Tristan Stewart talked about the food: “It has been unbelievably

good. Everything has been spectacular on the food side of things.

Talking to the guests about my food pairing and beer and the foie

gras was exciting.”

Brian MacIsaac mentioned getting to experience Tristan’s complex

beers, Kent’s from Boombox and Dave’s from Love Shack.

“All these people coming together from different backgrounds.

Feels like royalty.”

Lucas Parks was

blown away by the

skills of the kitchen

staff: “There was the

Back Hand of God glaze

on the lamb and

the brown ale cheese

on the IPA burgers. It

was olfactory hedonism

with local inspirations.”

Dave Paul really enjoyed

the Friendly

Breathtaking food & views

Cove excursion. “I

didn’t know what to expect, but having the informative, historical

talk in the morning, and then to go out and witness it and see

Friendly Cove, that’s special. I am really glad I bought Sanford’s

book. You can feel his wisdom, history, and inner calm as he sits

there with the great view, doing his work.” Dave called the Nootka

Sound Resort experience the next level of customer service and

satisfaction. “Just to be able to have this much beer variety, in this

setting; everything from ferrying around in boats, the food, the

rooms are luxurious with the best view around. Staff is here for

you 24/7 if you need something—it’s very impressive. I can’t wait

for next year.”

Famed brewers man the large brewing station

Brad told me the three brewers for CBW 2020 will be Julia Hanlon

(Steamworks), Iain Hill (Strange Fellows) and Ben Love

(Portland’s Gigantic Brewing). “There will be 20 taps of craft

beer on tap all retreat long. For CBW3 we will have two chefs

and a sous chef. As a bonus, Eric Patemen (Edible Canada) will

be joining us.”

He continues, “There will be theme nights including Japanesestyle

pub and Texas-style smoked meat pit. The two Cicerones ®

will be Adam Henderson (Superflux) and Stephanie Turcotte (Île

Sauvage). Stephanie is Vancouver Island’s only Advanced Cicerone

® . We will also be cracking the Magnum of barrel-aged beer

that has sat on the ocean floor for one year. Oh, and did I mention

a full-time naturalist and two massage therapists?”

Dennyse tells me that early bird tickets are sale priced through

December 31, 2019. It sounds like an experience not to miss.

Brad and Dennyse’s

passion for beer,

food, adventure, and

sharing life-changing

experiences with

others has led them

to create this event.

Their goal is to offer

something truly

unique and intimate

that is educational

and recreational at

the same time. A big

Just a sample of the extensive beer menu part of the experience

is the chance to meet and

talk with leaders in the craft beer industry while relaxing on a

floating resort in the middle of pristine wilderness.

Brian K. Smith, MPA

is an accredited member of the BC Association of Travel

Writers, and is Chief Photographer for What's Brewing.

46 WHAT'S BREWING WINTER 2019-20


HOW TO NAME A BREWERY II:

BREWERY LOGOS OF BC

>> LEIF MILTENBERGER

When designing a logo for a brewery, it’s important

to have a good understanding of the market that

the brewery operates in or is launching in. So we

recently went looking for a collection of the logos of

all of the breweries in BC. When we couldn’t find one, we made our

own, with all 225 BC brewery logos in one place (October 2019).

We often say that branding

and packaging design need

to be considered in the

context in which they will

be required to perform. We

present this as a resource

for any brewery that’s

redesigning their logo or

about to enter the market.

We felt that the best way to

display all of these logos

was an interactive, filterable

list. On our website, each

brewery’s logo is tagged with

the categories that it fits into,

and you can click any of the

category buttons to filter the

list.

With the filter buttons in the

online list, it’s fairly easy to

see where the whitespace is

when it comes to BC brewery

logo designs. Going after

certain categories that don’t

have many entrants could

be beneficial. Negative

Space or Monogram—lots

of opportunity in both of

those categories. That’s not

to say that you should aim for all that whitespace; some categories

could be empty for a reason (e.g. tall & narrow logos can be really

challenging to work with).

You should definitely pay attention to which categories have the

most entrants when considering a new logo design. Roughly 25% of

the breweries in BC have a circular logo. Do we really need another?

We’ve identified some patterns in this set of brewery logo designs.

20% of the breweries include images of beer ingredients, and 15%

have included their location. (This includes only examples when

it’s not already part of a brewery’s name.) 13% of the breweries in

BC have opted for a wordmark (a text-only logo).

It’s good to keep in mind the huge variation in size of the breweries

here. Some breweries in this list require more out of their logo than

others. We should hardly expect a small brewpub’s logo to be as

professional and effective as that of a regional brewery like Phillips

Brewing or Stanley Park.

If you’re considering using a large single letter as the basis of your

logo, it would be helpful to know about the ten other breweries in

BC already using the same approach. There are already two large

“B” logos. Going that route will not help you stand out.

About the Logo Grid

TERMINOLOGY

Handwritten: looking truly

handwritten, as opposed to

just a cursive typeface.

Monogram: A motif made

from two or more letters or

other graphemes to form one

symbol.

Negative Space: Using the

space around and between

the subject(s) of an image

to create compelling visuals

that have dual or hidden

meanings.

Hardcore (“Hipster”):

Logos based around a

cross, as discussed in a 2013

Emblemetric article. A few

BC breweries that launched

in the twenty-teens with

this approach have since

redesigned their logos.

Place Name: Breweries that

added their location to their

logo. Not including those

already named after theirlocation, like Coal Harbour.

Ingredients: Grain, hops etc added to logo.

Please let us know if you spot any errors, omissions, or

breweries no longer in operation. Also, you can download an

image with all of the logos in one grid, here.

Leif Miltenberger

is a Managing Partner at Hired Guns Creative, a small

but mighty design agency focused on providing branding

and packaging design for craft breweries. Hired Guns has

provided award-winning design to the beverage alcohol

sector since 2008.

WINTER 2019-20 WHAT'S BREWING 47


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