WineNZ Summer 2019-20

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The authoritative guide to NZ's wine industry

WineNZ

Summer 2019-2020 $9.90

Waiheke

Man O’ War Bay

A comfy little

bunch of vines...

it's not

NZD $9.90

First Lady oF Wine|summer Wine sipping ideas|Wine and Food events|Wine traiL updates


MARISCO CASTLE,

LUNDY ISLAND, UK

In fact, there are many – history tells us some incredible things…

Among the twisted vines of Marisco Vineyards owner Brent Marris’ ancestry was a

William de Marisco, rumoured to be one of the many illegitimate children of King Henry the First.

Back in the twelfth and thirteenth century, the de Marisco families inhabited the small island

of Lundy off the south-west coast of England, and were engaged in all manner of shall we say,

‘colourful pursuits’.

They maintained a tempestuous relationship with the monarchy of the time; at times receiving

royal favour, and yet at others, great displeasure. The de Mariscos’ acts of piracy and treason

ultimately defined their place in history.

Good wines deserve a good story, so to celebrate this intruiging family history, Marisco Vineyards

created The Kings Series. Each of these award–winning premium wines features a unique name

and a story relating to their remarkable forebears…


Publisher's note

WineNZ

CONTRIBUTORS

Martin Gillion, Daniel Honan,

Anne-Marie Nansett, Louis Pierard,

John Saker, Charmaine Smith,

Vic Williams.

PHOTOGRAPHY

Richard Brimer

DESIGN

Spinc Media

PUBLISHERS

Colin Gestro

027 256 8014

colin@affinityads.com

Joan Gestro

joanlucy47@gmail.com

ADVERTISING ENQUIRIES

Jax Hancock

06 839 1705

jax.affinityads@gmail.com

WEBSITE

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz

SUBSCRIPTIONS

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WineNZ in search

PUBLISHER

www.affinityads.com

Publishers of: Active Seniors,

Superbrands, Dive NZ, Wine NZ,

Seniors and Travel Expo.

Changes

are afoot!

WineNZ Magazine is now

under new ownership and

as experienced publishers

we are looking to make

some changes to ensure the

magazine not only retains

the high standards it has

maintained over the past 23

years but breaks new ground

in its coverage of the New

Zealand wine scene.

We have retained our

experienced team of wine

commentators, but we will

also be employing the

services of new voices to

ensure that new ground

is covered, as well as

reintroducing contributors

from earlier times.

The magazine will retain its

main focus on wine and the

enjoyment of wine both here

and overseas.

Colin Gestro

Editor & Publisher

When i bought

Brookfields Vineyards,

the most planted white

variety in Hawke’s Bay

was Müller-Thurgau.

it wasn't my preferred

choice; hence, i

planted pinot gris,

which was sourced

from the Mission

Vineyards. only

after the Millennium

did pinot gris sales

explode nationally —

and the good news is

they are still growing.

We at Brookfields wish

all our customers a

very happy holiday

season and a healthy

and prosperous 2020.

cheers,

Peter robertson

PO Box 13257 Tauranga 3141

COVER PHOTO:

Man O’ War Grapes with a view

from Waiheke Island

Photo: Richard Brimer

Brookfield

Vineyards

Phone 06 834 4615

www.brookfieldsvineyard.co.nz

Trade enquiries

Hancocks

Phone 0800 699 463

4 WineNZ Magazine | Summer 2019/2020


Title Over Here | Feature

2016 ‘ELSPETH’ REDS WIN GOLD

SIX NATIONS WINE CHALLENGE 2019

OUTSTANDING VINTAGE - OUTSTANDING WINES

www.millsreef.co.nz

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz

5


Contents

WineNZ

Summer 2019/2020

8

8 COVER STORY

Waiheke, where Martin Gillion

uncovers the true giant of

wine makers.

18 WinE and TimE

News from New Zealand and

around the world.

27 nEW WinE RElEaSES

Sarah Jessica Parker with

Invivo launches her own

label of wine. This follows the

successful launch of the

Graham Norton series of

wines.

32 nEW ZEaland’S FiRST

ladY OF WinE

Jane Hunter; high profile

and awards with wine, a rare

interview.

42 SUmmER WinE CHOiCES

Our team put forward their

blind tasting notes for a

range of summer wines. Do 32

try one or two.

6 WineNZ Magazine | Summer 2019/2020


Contents

57

52 FOOD FOR THOUGHT

Vic Williams continues

matching summer food with

wine.

62 WINE TRAILS

Martinborough options, plus

a few in the Hawke’s Bay

region.

66 ADELAIDE PARTY TIME

62

74

57 RESTAURANT, FOOD AND

WINE MATCH-UP

A surprise to find such wine

knowledge in Tauranga.

Relatively new Clarence

Restaurant and Bistro shows

how it is done.

61 FOOD AND WINE EVENTS

A new piece in WineNZ. Plan

to visit some of these events

in 2020.

72 OVERSEAS WINE TIME

We visit Sicily and the Marsala

region. Alagna is one of the

largest fortified wineries, with

a surprise new release for

drinking with Sushi.

74 LIECHTENSTEIN WINE

UNCOVERED

66

NEW LOOK WINE

TASTINGS.

Coming soon.

NEW COLUMNS COMING

What I am enjoying drinking.

Personalities give us their

personal wine choices and

tell us why. Wine makers’

profiles. The backroom

efforts of development and

processing grapes to wine.

Meet some of them right

here.

72

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz

7


Feature | Waiiheke

Waiheke

The Vineyard Gourmet Haven

&

By Martin Gillion

8 WineNZ Magazine | Summer 2019/2020


Waiiheke | Feature

There can be few areas in New Zealand that have gone

through as much of a transformation as Auckland’s

Hauraki Gulf showpiece, Waiheke Island, just 30

minutes by fast ferry from the city centre.

50 years ago, travel to the island was courtesy of the

‘Baroona’, the converted cargo ship originally destined

for work on the Kaipara Harbour. Two hours was the minimum

journey time to get to the beaches of Oneroa and Surfdale

in pursuit of the sunburn and blisters that in those days were

eagerly displayed as badges of honour.

The rugged hills of the eastern parts of the island. farmed for

cattle, were relatively untouched and the secluded bays of the

Ruthe Passage or the Tamaki Strait the provenance of sailors.

The island was known as a place where modest baches

surrounded the stunning beaches and where there were

scattered communities of colourful people with outlooks at

considerable variance to those of a largely conservative New

Zealand. Cannabis was not unknown and body piercing was in

its infancy.

But today, the Island is peppered with luxurious holiday homes

(certainly not baches anymore) and has become an essential

stop for visiting international glitteratti, be they pop stars, globetrotting

politicians, film makers or sporting heroes.

And it is not only the fast ferries that have made the difference.

For apart from the beaches and the stunning Gulf scenery

the onset of wine production in the 1980s has added a new

dimension to the island experience.

The world acclaim in the early 1990s accorded the pioneering

wines of Stephen White at Stonyridge and Kim and Jeanette

Goldwater at Putiki Bay signalled the ability of Waiheke to

produce truly significant wines that could stand alongside the

best of Bordeaux. International wine critics were both surprised

and impressed.

The transformation of Waiheke had begun.

Michael Cooper’s 1994 ‘Wines and Vineyards of New Zealand

quotes from Stephen White at around this time….

“In a decade, there’ll be 50 vineyards here. It’ll be Auckland’s

most heavily planted wine district. There’ll be a lot of restaurants,

and Waiheke will emerge as a sort of vineyard/gourmet holiday

area.”

And how true that has turned out to be!

For while the number of producers has not yet quite reached

the 50 mark the region now promotes itself as ‘The Island of

Wine’ and wineries and vineyards have spread to all parts of the

island, including those previously discarded eastern hillsides.

The range of wine experiences ranges from the lavish

upmarket tasting rooms and restaurants looking out to the

Auckland skyline in the distance, to the ‘hands on’ experiences

provided by individual vintners.

In almost every case not only are the wines available for

tasting but the venue provides added attractions be they wine

matched food, stunning seascapes, accommodation or event

venues for weddings and celebrations.

So here are three prominent Waiheke wineries whose journeys

to success have been different, whose locations are varied and

whose approaches to winemaking and visitor engagement are

in contrast.

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9


Feature | Waiiheke

MAN O’ WAR

VINEYARDS –

METICULOUS

MANAGEMENT

Man O’ War almost defies the

image of Waiheke as the home

of small, boutique wineries

producing limited amounts of

premium wine aimed mainly

at the local market and the

increasing visitor spend.

For not only is Man O’ War

the largest producer on the

island but as winemaker

Duncan McTavish tells me, at

600 tonnes they eclipse the

output of all other Waiheke

producers combined. “In fact we

think our harvest accounts for

about a third of Auckland’s total

production.”

So a comfy little bunch of vines

on land overlooking a sandy

beach it is not!

Man O’ War takes its name

from the secluded bay that

was the holiday homestead of

the business magnate John

Spencer’s family who have had

farming interests on Waiheke

since the 80s. Their 1800ha estate

encompasses much of the hilly

coastline on the south eastern

part of the island.

It’s an estate that has been

meticulously managed and

redeveloped over the years but

one which also includes the

historic wartime gunnery site at

Stony Batter.

A site nearby is marked for a

new winery in the coming years.

As a testament to the family’s

guardianship of the land, on

your way through the hills to the

company vineyards specimen

trees, carefully fenced and

protected from stock, stand

alongside patches of virgin bush.

It is evident that the proprietors

have both the patience and the

ability to fund the investments

required.

Both are required for the

establishment of vineyards!

It’s an old adage that vineyards

may well be profitable for the

‘family of a family of a family’ but

rarely for the original incumbents!

But the Man O’ War plans were

a little different to most. While,

encouraged by the successes

of Stonyridge and Goldwater the

family decided to plant in small,

discreet blocks of sloping hillsides

that each offered different

possibilities in terms of variety and

style.

Their first vines were planted in

1993 for a small vintage in 1996.

Most of the subsequent planting

took place in the years from 2004

2006 and now the estate claims

10 WineNZ Magazine | Summer 2019/2020


Waiiheke | Feature

64ha of vines sequestered in

more than 75 individual sites.

Such an arrangement calls for

detailed management and that

is immediately obvious when you

first breast the hill on the rough

road to the winery.

The stunning views that are

virtually mandatory for Waiheke,

are there in abundance. At this

point you are several hundred

meters above the sea at Cactus

Bay or Owhiti Bay and the rocky

coves below.

But beside you are two

immaculate vineyards with

compact rows marching

together over the steep slopes.

So vineyard so normal.

But what is not so vineyardnormal

is that the vines march in

totally different directions!

In one, vines in serried rows,

stride in a somewhat north/south

formation down the slope towards

the beach. The other has vines

marshalled in what looks like an

east/west attribution up the hill on

the other side.

If these vineyard ‘platoons’

needed a saluting platform it

would be in the middle of the road.

I’m assuming this is no accident

nor whim but that each site will

have been planted in different

varieties.

When I get to the Man O’ War

beachside cellar door Duncan tells

me that it is indeed the different

orientation of sites that is a part of

their management strategy.

“We pride ourselves on a

meticulous matching of each

variety to one of the 76 specific

sites. The hillside soils vary and

aspects to the sun and even

altitudes are different. As a result

we not only plant them differently

but manage them with the same

degree of care. We’ve even had to

work our way between the tides on

sites we’ve developed on nearby

Ponui island.”

“It is difficult and costly to

manage them all individually. With

each site being hand harvested

and then vinified separately

before blending, the handling and

winemaking is far more intensive

than most.”

“Our rural setting also makes life

difficult. It is hard to attract workers

especially those skilled in vineyard

work so we’ve set up our own hostel

to try and help with this particularly

during harvest.”

A visit to the cellar door at Man

O’ War is certainly worth the drive.

Unlike other Waiheke wineries

there is no local bus to drop you

off at the gate but there are those

stunning views at every turn, and at

the end of the road the cellar door

lies right on the beach.

There’s a restaurant with casual

dining inside and out and the Man

O’ War wines to buy and try. In

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11


Feature | Waiiheke

summer it swarms with holiday

makers but most of the people

you will see relaxing on the

beach with a bottle of wine to

accompany their picnic have not

made the tortuous route by car.

The boats from which they

come are anchored in the bay!

In contrast to the large

number of individual vineyards

the number of Man O’ War

wines is relatively limited as the

different sites are blended. The

‘Ironclad’ Bordeaux blend has

more than 29 components and

Syrah is blended at two levels.

Chardonnay also features at

two levels. Interestingly the

Sauvignon Blanc is blended with

25% of Semillon, unusual for New

Zealand’s take on this variety.

MAN O’ WAR

WINE pROFILES:

Gravestone Sauvignon

Blanc / Semillon 2017

- $29

This wine represents an unusual

direction for this variety with the

inclusion of almost 25% Semillon,

a common occurrence in France

but not in NZ. Picked at very low

levels, just 2 tonnes per ha it’s

barrel fermented and aged for

2 years in oak. “It’s the biggest

surprise for our customer” Duncan

reports, “Herbaceous and crisp.”

The tasting notes refer to a ‘gin

and tonic like finish!’

Dreadnought Syrah

2016 - $64

Again this wine is from a large

number of steep imposing sites,

all with equally imposing names,

such as ‘Asylum’,‘Big North’,

‘Madmans’‘and North Face’;

sites which have been dry farmed

to increase resistance to drought.

The individual batches have

been separately vinified with

wild yeasts and held on oak for

18months before blending.

“We like to think of it as richly

textured but restrained and with a

streak of acidity.”

Man O’ War wines are available

online www.manowar.co.nz

GOLDIE ESTATE

– HERITAGE

WINE

I always like circular stories;

where the end relates directly

to the beginning. The sort of

thing where super sportsmen or

women, when the medals dry

up, end up coaching the high

school team that jump-started

their career.

Goldie Estate on Waiheke is a

good example of the process,

except in this case it is the land

that ends up returning to its roots.

Too often in New Zealand we

seem to sell our special pieces

of land, especially if they have

stunning views, to American

steel barons or narcissistic pop

stars. Or we just cover them with

housing developments and car

parks.

Such might have been the fate

12 WineNZ Magazine | Summer 2019/2020


Waiiheke | Feature

of Kim and Jeanette Goldwater’s

Putiki Bay vineyard of the 80s:

the first planted on Waiheke and

one of the first in the country to

convince the wine world that we

could produce truly fine wine.

Now the vineyard is not only

still providing fruit for world

class wines marketed under the

‘Goldie Estate’ brand, but has

also been protected from future

development or resale.

But it was not some

bureaucratic monolith that saved

the land. It was Kim and Jeanette

themselves who ensured the

survival of their historic vineyard.

In 2009, following the sale

of their extended interests in

Marlborough and Hawke’s Bay to

a US investor, Kim and Jeanette

generously gifted the Waiheke

property, valued at $4million,

to the Auckland University as a

lynchpin to their Wine Science

course.

“We wanted to preserve

the vineyard’s history and do

something that would work for

the local community” said Kim at

the time.

It was an act of extreme

generosity!

Today the students of the

Auckland University Wine

Science Course are able to

study all aspects of the industry

from this ‘outlier’ of the main

University campus. They have

access to the vineyards for

viticultural experience and

Goldie Estate, a completely

independent, commercial winery,

provides hands on winemaking

experience.

Few oenological students,

worldwide, would have such a

‘hands on’ opportunity.

Winemaker Heinrich Storm

explains that while the students

can make their own wines

from some of the estate fruit,

the Goldie wines he makes are

completely independently made.

He is responsible for the winery

continuing to make quintessential

Waiheke wines in the manner

that the Goldwaters pioneered all

those years ago.

Heinrich explains that the

13ha site is really made up of two

vineyards. The home block that

surrounds the winery and looks

down to Putiki Bay caters for the

reds, mainly Cabernet Sauvignon,

Merlot, Cabernet Franc and

Syrah.

The second vineyard, across the

road from the entrance, is mainly

for white wines and is the original

source of fruit for the Zell vineyard

that had a cult following for

Chardonnay in the earlier days.

The estate wines of Merlot/

Cabernet, Chardonnay and Syrah

are matched, in good years, with

reserve wines of Cabernet/Merlot

/ Franc, Chardonnay, Merlot,

Syrah and Viognier.

Overall Heinrich has seen a

change in emphasis at Goldie.

“Our emphasis is now more

towards Chardonnay and Syrah.

We’ve even taken out 30% of the

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz

13


Feature | Waiiheke

Bordeaux blend varieties to plant

more Syrah.”

“We also make a Sauvignon

Blanc and rosé,” he says. “But

they’re not under the Goldie

label. They are really on site for

weddings and events which

are an increasing part of the

overall business. The rosé is made

from Estate frown fruit while

Sauvignon Blanc is sourced from

Marlborough”

“Visitor experiences and

event hosting has become an

increasing part of many Waiheke

winery activities,” Heinrich reckons.

“As the seasons last a little bit

longer cellar doors and other

visitor experiences become more

sustainable.”

The Goldie cellar door is

located in the original winery

building and offers a tasting

of all their estate wines with

knowledgeable and passionate

staff to guide you through the

selection. There’s the opportunity

to take some nibbles with a glass

of one of the wines and perhaps

stroll to the top of the vineyard to

take in the view of Putiki Bay that

entranced Kim and Jeanette all

those years ago.

Unlike many of the island’s

wineries, visits to Goldie are easy;

the bus stops just outside the

front gate!

GOLDIE WINE

pROFILES:

Goldie Reserve Cabernet

Merlot/Cabernet Franc

2014 - $60

This wine is entirely sourced from

the home block; that from which

the Goldwaters made their ground

breaking wines from 1982 onwards.

From 2002 the pinnacle wines from

the estate have been branded

under the Goldie name and this

wine is one of their finest examples.

The vintage was exceptional with

warm dry conditions producing

fruit at optimal ripeness. “It’s

produced a wine that is fragrant

with great depth and restrained

power,” says Heinrich, “It’s on very

limited release.”

Goldie Estate Syrah

2016 - $45

This wine came from a

difficult vintage. “We had to

work really hard to get the

best out of it,” comments

Heinrich. “With careful

picking dates and constant

monitoring there was little

time for anything else. But we

had learned from the hiccups

of previous cyclones that had

come through.”

Heinrich remarks that this

wine, like the other red wines

for this vintage, is elegant

and fruit forward with textured

tannins.

Goldie Estate wines are

available at the cellar door or

from www.goldieestate.co.nz

14 WineNZ Magazine | Summer 2019/2020


Waiiheke | Feature

pASSAGE ROCK – pIONEER OF THE EAST

David Evans and his Swiss wife

Veronica Evans-Gander shared

winemaking experiences in both

Western Australia and Switzerland

but in1993 made their way to

David’s New Zealand homeland

with a view to planting their own

vineyard and making their own

wines. “We dreamed of creating

fantastic wines in a beautiful

place near the sea,” says David.

“We were quite young!”

With this in mind the recognition

that the early Waiheke wines had

received confirmed the island as

their preferred destination. But it

was not easily achieved. Already

the island was attracting serious

viticultural interest.

But in1994 David and Veronika

found a site in the south-east of

Waiheke and planted their first

vines there under their original

branding of Camana Farm.

In contrast to the hilly north

eastern part of the island where

Man O’ War has since developed

vineyards in an entirely different

style, it is a relatively flat area

of land in the Te Matuku Valley

and looks out over the bay to

the waters of the Tamaki Strait.

The Passage Rock branding that

replaced the original labelling

takes its name from the pivotal

navigational mark that signals

the separation of the strait from

the nearby Waiheke Channel.

While the rock in question

is conspicuously avoided by

Auckland boaties, the wines that

have taken its name have been

eagerly sought after following

the company’s ability to match

the reputation for excellence

pioneered in the 80s by

Goldwater and Stonyridge.

Now known as the Island’s ‘Most

Awarded Winery’, Passage Rock

counts 18 gold medals and 6

trophies to their name.

David comments on those

early years: “We had identified

the 3ha site as having potential,”

he says when we meet in early

Spring. “And the fact that the

land was flatter, in one piece

and easier to plant and work

was a big advantage. Mind you,

the other advantage was that

it was quite a bit less expensive!

Even in those early days Waiheke

was beginning to intensify at the

‘holiday’ end.”

Indeed the ‘second wave’

of pioneering winemakers who

settled in Waiheke during the

1990s all found vineyard sites,

even those without a view, hard to

come by. But most still planted in

the more accessible western end.

David and Veronica were the

only ‘new entrants’ to choose the

less favoured and less populated

part in the east. To this extent they

were pioneers of a different kind.

As might be expected, previous

winemaking on the island

led them to plant Cabernet

Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc

and Merlot. But also included

in the mix were Malbec, Syrah,

Chardonnay and Viognier.

And it was one of these

‘additional’ varieties that has

singled David out as the pioneer

of Syrah on the island. His

Passage Rock Reserve Syrah 2003

took out the trophy for the Best

New Zealand Syrah at the Air New

Zealand Wine Awards 2004 and

the wine has had an unbroken

record of gold medals ever since.

Today much of the winemaking

on the island has followed the

lead of Passage Rock. For while

Syrah was not unknown in other

Waiheke vineyards at the time,

David’s subsequent success was

an inspiration to many.

An island once committed

to the Bordeaux varieties now

has as much Syrah planted as

Cabernet. In many cases wineries

have pulled out the old plantings

to establish new ones with the

grape from the south of France.

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz

15


Feature | Waiiheke

David grins with pleasure when

I tell him that another winemaker

on the island referred to him as

Waiheke’s ‘Mr Syrah.’

Perhaps one of the secrets

of the success of the Passage

Rock wines lies not only with

their management of the home

vineyard, now expanded to 7ha,

but also to the grapes he sources

from two of the very earliest

Waiheke vineyards, both planted

on the promontory that reaches

to the north from Oneroa.

Both Fenton Estate and

Peninsula Estate (now Fossil Bay)

were founded in the early 90s

and while their proprietors are no

longer in the wine business, their

vineyards supply David with the

fruit from these older vines.

David attests to the success

of Syrah in Waiheke conditions

but he is still a proponent of the

Cabernet blends and the Reserve

Cabernet Merlot from 2015 is still

on the winery’s tasting schedule.

“They’re a sort of firm

handshake by comparison to

Syrah whose welcoming grip is

definitely not limp, but certainly

not so assertive! The Cabernets

can be show stoppers in the very

best of vintages; our 2010 vintage

was outstanding for it.”

Encouraged to try contrasting

vintages I found the differences

were immediate, with the 2015

having quite firm structure but the

2017 being more approachable.

David commented that Waiheke

was not always a good place to

grow grapes. “For while Syrah is

generally more straight forward

to manage, the Cabernet

wines are harder to perfect. But

sometimes, as with life itself, little

imperfections make things even

more interesting and appealing.

It’s certainly like that with our

Cabernet blends. And I like that.”

Passage Rock has a definite

‘hands on’ feel to it and when

I meet David to discuss their

winery journey we taste the wines

amongst the chaos of their bistro

renovation which looks out over

the vineyard and offers both

casual food such as Pizzas and

platters as well as more serious

options.

The winery offers their full

range for tasting and includes

Chardonnay, Viognier, Pinot Gris,

Sauvignon Blanc and rosé as

well as those Reserve Cabernet

Merlots and Syrahs.

Passage Rock may be a little

remote but both the visit and the

wines are well worth the effort.

pASSAGE

ROCK WINE

pROFILES:

Passage Rock

Cabernet Sauvignon/

Syrah/Merlot 2015

-$65

This wine is a combination of

fruit from both Passage Rock’s

own vineyards and that of

the Fenton Estate ‘Twin Bays’

vineyard planted in 1998 on

the headland north of Oneroa.

The home vineyard vines

were re-located shortly after

the vineyard was established to

enable plantings of a different

clone and to get more heat

exposure. It was blended

before vinification.

“It’s a wine for the focussed

drinker,” David pronounces

Passage Rock Reserve

Syrah 2014 - $65

The reserve Syrahs are only

made in the very best years

and David composed this

wine from a blend of the best

ten barrels with a more or

less equal proportions drawn

from both the home vineyard

fruit and that sourced from

the Fenton and Fossil Bay

sites. It won a trophy in the

International Wine Challenge

in London in 2016. “Look for

nuts, spices and dark berry

intensity,” says David.

Climatic conditions have

prevented production of the

reserves since this vintage

although one is definitely on

the cards for the 2019 harvest.

Wines can be bought at the

cellar door or online at

www.passagerock.co.nz.

▲ Owhanake has a unique pairing of fresh

sustainably Waiheke grown flowers and wine. Now

open every Saturday 9am to 1pm for their flower

market and free wine tasting.

▲ Mosaic Artwork and Gardens. Visit Casita Miro to

see their Gaudi inspired Mosaic artwork done by

the owner himself while feasting and enjoying their

fabulous garden views.

16 WineNZ Magazine | Summer 2019/2020


Waiiheke | Feature

▲ Batch also host the Long Lunch for the Jazz Festival on Easter Monday. Dancing on

the lawn while enjoying 3 of the top jazz acts in Australasia. Ticket prices also include a

sumptuous 3 course buffet lunch at the fabulous Batch Winery – truly one of Waiheke’s

most enchanting vineyards. This year it will be on Monday 13th April 2020.

▲ Marvel at Cable Bay Vineyard’s extensive art

collection from renowned New Zealand artist. See

and experience the history of the land shown

through Anton Forde’s sculpture Te puna o Hoete.

Cable Bay Vineyards pays homage and honours

all those who cared for the land in the past,

present and future through this historical and

cultural collection of carved sculptures. Dine on

food from their very own organic garden in one

of their two spectacular restaurants while sipping

on their award winning wines and taking in

spectacular views.

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz

17


Wine & Time

Wine & Time

The latest from New Zealand wine world

CELEBRATING PINOT NOIR NZ

2021 February 23 rd – 25 th February.

Christchurch hosts pinot

noir the first time in its

20-year history.

World famous Pinot Noir

celebrations to hit the South

Island. A 115-strong collective

of New Zealand Pinot Noir

producers are bringing their

international celebration to

Christchurch for the first time in

2021, shining the global spotlight

on one of New Zealand’s most

exciting wines. A three-day

celebration is held every four

years and is widely considered

to be one of the best Pinot Noir

events on the planet. The last

event, in 2017, was a sell-out

event on Wellington’s waterfront,

hosting international wine

luminaries like Jancis Robinson,

Andrea Frost and Elaine Chukan

What is it all about – Pinot Noir.

Brown, with Andrea Frost

describing New Zealand as

“one of the most dynamic and

exciting Pinot Noir regions on

earth.

Western

Australian

wine

master

retires and

puts awardwinning

vineyard on

the market.

While Ian Ranson’s

Riesling is the reigning

Australian wine of the

year, the winemaker

is bowing out of the

industry, citing age and

the desire to hand over

to anew generation

as reasons behind the

decision.

Source: ABC

Marlborough announces location of

new Research Winery

"We are delighted to be able

to announce our location

at the Marlborough

Research Centre on the

NMIT campus alongside Plant

and Food research,

New Zealand Winegrowers

and Wine Marlborough. The

Marlborough Research centre

has been

a key supporter of our

establishment from day

one and I’m pleased the vision-to

be co-located with key research

and industry organizations

will become reality.” Said MJ

Loza, CEO of Bragato Research

Institute.

BRI (formerly New Zealand’s

Winegrowers Research Centre)

has been working alongside

NMIT and the Marlborough

Research Centre to secure the

site and the location will enable

further collaboration between

the different organizations. “The

trial to assess the effectiveness

of our research winery

fermenters that took place over

vintage is a good example

of the collaboration already

happening.” Says Mr. Loza. “The

trial of BRI tanks was carried out

by Plant and Food Research,

based in the NMIT teaching

winery, with NMIT students

working on a trial. It was a real

team effort and our location here

supports and encourages that”.

18 WineNZ Magazine | Summer 2019/2020


Wine & Time

OUTSTANDING

GIBBSTON

WINE

EXPERIENCE AT GIBBSTON

VALLEY

VALLEY LODGE LODGE & SPA & SPA COUNTS

A stay at Central Otago’s newest luxury lodge wouldn’t be complete

without an outstanding wine experience – exactly DOWN what’s on TO the menu OPENING

at Queenstown’s Gibbston Valley Lodge & Spa.

Gibbston ad?

20 WineNZ Magazine | Summer 2019/2020

Relaxed

luxury. Unique

experiences.

Five-star concierge

service. A stunning

Central Otago

location, nestled

among the region’s

oldest vines.

packages and experiences

will allow guests to immerse

themselves in the rural

playground that is Gibbston

– creating memories that are

perfectly tailored to them.

“What we think will be

particularly appealing to our

guests will be the Essential

Wine Experience offering. This

exclusive package will be the

Queenstown, New Zealand pinnacle in wine indulgence,

– Years of meticulous

including a premium winery,

Wplanning are paying inemaker off Christopher vineyard A and winemaker cave tour, will then a lead a tasting

as Central Otago’s Keys says most the private wine through tasting Gibbston with Valley’s the finest premium

exciting luxury Gibbston offering, Valley Lodge winemaker and Single our Vineyard Lodge releases.

Gibbston Valley & Lodge Spa’s Essential & Spa, Cellar, and lunch crafted by

begins the final Wine countdown Experience is Head Chef, “We’ve Anthony got an Gradiska. extensive cellar with a wide

a perfect towards opportunity opening for its guests doors; to get up range of wines. It’s going to be interesting

“We hope that our guests

close marked to what the by the winery launch team does.

and it’s going to be good. We’ll allow for

of will leave with a new found

all preferences, probably only kicking you

a new website and online appreciation for

“At heart, it shows the beautiful reality of out if you want a Merlot.”

booking portal. Bookings

creation. Winemaking is an annual cycle Central Otago wine and

are now available via

of activity. Our idea is to satisfy those who food,” adds The Greg. experience “It is ends now with a convivial

gibbstonvalleylodgeandspa.

have a curiosity about what it’s all about.” widely regarded lunch. Executive as being Chef Anthony Gradiska

com with the first guests being amongst delivers the best enticing in the seasonal produce from the

Exclusive welcomed to Lodge to guests, the property the experience in world, and Winery’s we believe organic that gardens, is expertly paired

takes mid-December.

individuals through the working because with we wines. treat our natural

core of Located Gibbston at Valley, the heart including of the surroundings with the utmost

winemaking Central facilities Otago’s and founding iconic Wine

“You’ll get a very clear and close

patience and respect. We

Cave.

impression of the seasons and styles of

winery, only 20 minutes from look forward to sharing our

Central Otago. We want to host people

Queenstown Airport, Gibbston knowledge and love for the

“There’s nothing else like it. In the cave the the way we’re accustomed; deeply

Valley Lodge & Spa will offer region and giving our guests

atmosphere is peaceful and contemplative: informative, but super friendly and

the ultimate in relaxed luxury, fantastic memories that will

just you and hundreds of barrels of Pinot relaxed.”

Noir

fine

lining

wine,

the walls.

culinary

Then

excellence

we’ll take

last them a lifetime.”

you

and

into the

5-star

Winery

personal

and even

service.

through the Bookings For are those now keen open to take on their wine

Chef’s 24 Gardens beautifully to see appointed where some of the gibbstonvalleylodgeandspa.

experience new heights, a guided

ingredients private for villas your will lunch look will out be onto sourced. com . Those helicopter interested trip is can also available, stopping at

This working is all about organic showcasing vineyards the quality of also keep spectacular up to date sites with and all the Winery’s major

our people and the and schist primary mountains ingredients.” Lodge and vineyards. Spa news by

of Gibbston. However, this is following Gibbston Valley

Guests far will more then than enjoy just an a entertaining place short Gibbston Valley’s new venture features

Wines on Facebook and

film

to

on

stay.

the winegrowing

One-of-a-kind

process

luxury

in the

24 luxury villas set amongst its Le Maitre

Instagram .

Lodge’s private theatre.

“It’s visually spectacular. Of course being

filmed in Central Otago it’s impossible

for it not to be – but the film also captures

all the colour and life of harvest and

winegrowing.”

home block vineyard, a striking central

lodge building and separate spa. Exclusive

biking and walking trails are dotted on the

surrounding 1000-acres of privately-owned

land. For further information and bookings

go to gibbstonvalleylodgeandspa.com.


Wine & Time

Diners will enjoy dessert prepared by award winning chef Ben Bayly, pictured in Arrowtown with Emma Chisholm.

Progressive Dinner Tours

launch in Queenstown

The region’s first ever Progressive

Dinner Tour has landed in

Queenstown, hosted by renowned

operators Alpine Wine Tours.

Guests can now explore

the very best of Queenstown’s

renowned wineries, microbreweries

and restaurants in just

one evening, on the ultimate

Progressive Dinner Tour.

Owner-operator Emma

Chisholm says she saw a gap in

the market for night-time activities

and jumped at the opportunity to

launch something a little different.

“Evening activity options

are few and far between in

Queenstown, but the Progressive

Dinner Tour fills that void and

gives people a chance to go on

an incredible night-time journey

where they can relax, meet new

friends and experience the very

best food, wine and craft beer

the region has to offer,” she says.

The Tours visit three iconic

locations, including the

picturesque Shotover River, the

Valley of Vines – Gibbston Valley

– and historic Arrowtown. Tours

start and end in vibrant central

Queenstown, meaning guests

can start their evening in town

early before pick up, or extend

into the night following drop off.

Guests travel comfortably in

a luxurious Mercedes Sprinter

driven by a knowledgeable

local host.

Alpine Wine Tours is familyowned

and operated by Emma

and director Lee Saunders.

With family connections to

Queenstown and the wider

Otago region dating back nearly

60 years, the pair’s combined

local knowledge and family

heritage means they offer guests

a genuinely authentic kiwi

hospitality experience in ‘their

own’ backyard.

On the Queenstown

Progressive Dinner Tours, courses

are expertly matched with

multiple glasses of renowned

Central Otago wine, locally

brewed craft beer and a cheeky

after-dinner nightcap.

For further information or to

book go to www.alpinewinetours.

co.nz

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz

21


Wine & Time

Charley Noble trainee tries new WelTec chef

course to keep industry standards high

Head chef at famed Wellington

restaurant Charley Noble, Philipp

Doerr has encouraged his young

trainee, Olivia Scholten, to sign

up for WelTec’s new learn-as-youearn

Managed Traineeship New

Zealand Certificate in Cookery

Level 4.

This programme is specifically

designed for trainee chefs already

working in professional kitchens to

ensure the skills they learn at work

are backed up with academic

qualifications gained at WelTec.

The programme puts students on

a pathway to real success as a

chef.

Philipp, who is German, said the

learn-as-you-earn approach was

how many young people trained

in Germany and the approach

has his full support.

“As a young person who is still

learning, you can get paid and

still get a qualification, plus you

are immediately transferring what

you learn in your tutorials to the

kitchen. If you learn everything in

the classroom and then a year

later you try to use those skills in

a professional kitchen, chances

are you will have forgotten half of

them.

“So many people working in

kitchens don’t really know what

they are doing, which can be

dangerous, particularly in regard

to food safety and knife skills. But

in a busy kitchen, like Charley

Noble, we don’t have the time

to stand over people and teach

them how to do everything

correctly. That is why this course is

so important.”

Philip has been in the

restaurant industry for 15 years,

11 of which have been in New

Zealand where he joined Charley

Noble at its inception.

Xanadu Cabernet Sauvignon, best in wine

show of Western Australia

Margaret River winery Xanadu was announced as

a winner of the Wine Show of Western Australia, Shire

of Plantagenet Trophy, Best Wine of Show, for its 2017

DJL Cabernet Sauvignon, and was also awarded the

trophy for Best Red Wine of Show. Source: Winetitles

The Global wine market is currently worth an

estimated $342.43 billion and expected to grow

5.1 percent by 2023. However, prohibitive barriers to

trade in wine have made it hard for wine regions to

compete on a level playing field in the global market.


Source: Wine Industry Advisor

22 WineNZ Magazine | Summer 2019/2020


Wine & Time

Philipp describes Olivia, who

started as a kitchen hand at

Charley Noble early last year, as a

“keen worker who is willing to put

in the hard yards” and as a result,

she moved up the ranks quickly

and is now managing a section

in the Charley Noble kitchen.

“This is impressive for a 20-yearold

who has only been in our

kitchen since February last

year, so I pushed Olivia to do

the WelTec course. I believe

qualifications are very important

for those who have ambitions in

this industry,” he says.

Olivia first tried her hand at

studying psychology at Victoria

University Wellington when she

left Wellington High School, then

she worked at a restaurant in

Johnsonville.

“I started in this industry washing

dishes and now I manage a

section in a famous kitchen,” says

Olivia. “There is so much more I

still don’t know and I am excited

and determined to succeed in my

course.”

“Hospitality is still a very

underappreciated industry in

Wellington,” says Philipp. “We

work very hard to serve highquality

food, and people don’t

necessarily understand the level

of skill that it requires. The more

people with qualifications, the

better it will be for employers, and

ultimately, for our guests.”

Wolf Blass crowned

Great Australian

Red 2019

The South Australian Winery has,

yet again, been crowned Great

Australian Red, which makes

this year the third time it has

taken this award home since its

conception in 2006.


Source: Winetitles

Yealands Wine Group

appoints new CEO

Renewed focus on worldleading

sustainability practice

and global market expansion

Leading New Zealand wine

producer, Yealands Wine Group,

has today announced the

appointment of Tiffani Graydon

as Chief Executive Officer.

Graydon brings with her a

wealth of 25 years’ industry

knowledge and senior

executive experience in both

New Zealand and offshore

markets as well as a proven

record in business and brand

transformation. She has

previously worked at Yealands

in a General Manager Sales

and Marketing capacity.

“After rapid expansion over

the last decade, Yealands Wine

Group is now ready to enter the

next phase of business growth.

The future is very bright, and

one I’m excited to lead the

team through as we focus on

building brand equity globally

and here in New Zealand;

alongside cementing our

position in sustainable wine

making.

“What sets the Yealands’ story

apart from many others in the

New Zealand wine industry, and

part of what drew me back to

the company, is the opportunity

we have to take a genuine

leadership role in sustainable

winemaking. It’s a value held

strongly by our people but is

also something which is driving

consumers’ decision-making in

their brand choices,” Graydon

says.

In the coming weeks,

Graydon and the senior

leadership team, will refine the

organisation’s business strategy

focusing resources on key

growth areas for the business.

The sustainability efforts at

Yealands are centred around

the idea to ‘tread lightly’. Its

focus continues to be on

delivering the best quality,

award-winning wines, with a

light environmental footprint, to

its existing 65 global markets

and beyond.

“Yealands is the first winery

in the world to achieve

carboNZeroCertTM certification

from inception and we are

currently the only winery in

New Zealand that holds this

accreditation. We’re very proud

of this achievement but we

certainly don’t rest on our

laurels and are committed

to continually finding new

sustainable practices,” Graydon

says.

Peter Radich, Chairman of

Yealands Wine Group says

“We’re looking forward to

Yealands’ business growth with

Tiffani leading the way. She has

invaluable

international and senior

executive experience in the

wine industry, a passion for

sustainability, and has a strong

determination to succeed.”

Yealands Estate Wines is one

of New Zealand’s largest wine

exporters and is proud to be

100% locally owned, a rarity in

the wine industry. Owned by

the people of Marlborough,

Yealands is committed to

opening its doors to give locals

the opportunity to experience

firsthand their own investment

as well as deliver a strong

performance over the coming

years.

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz

23


Wine & Time

Left to right: Timothy Evill of Lawson’s Dry Hills, Paul Donaldson of Pegasus Bay, Annie Millton of Millton Vineyards,

Stephan Walliser of Fromm Winery, Karen Fistonich of Villa Maria, Judy Finn of Neudorf Vineyards, Clive Weston of

Nautilus Estate, Aaron Drummond of Craggy Range, Pip Goodwin of Palliser Estate, Blair Walter of Felton Road,

Helen Masters of Ata Rangi and Paul Brajkovich of Kumeu River.

Family Event

New Zealand’s Family of Twelve are

thrilled to announce that our third

annual Wine Tutorial will take place

2nd – 4th August 2020 among the

vines in Marlborough, home to

four Family wineries. This unique

event represents an extraordinary

opportunity for just twelve wine

professionals globally.

Mills Reef announces move

to new winery site

Mills Reef Winery is pleased

to announce that its winery’s

operations are to be relocated

from their current Bethlehem site

in Tauranga, to the Leveret Estate,

formerly Morton Estate, sited

on State Highway 2 about five

kilometres south of Katikati.

Says Mills Reef director Tim

Preston, “we explored many site

options, but the opportunity to

team up with Leveret and create

a Bay Of Plenty ‘wine destination

hub’ certainly stood out as the

preferred option”.

The Mills Reef brand will

continue to source its grapes from

the Hawkes Bay region, with the

winemaking from 2020 season

onward being completed at the

Katikati site.

“We have a lot of loyal followers

here in Tauranga, so it’s great

to be able to stay in the Bay Of

Plenty. The move will also give us

access to some new vineyards

and we look forward to exploring

those options”, says Tim.

The current Mills Reef winery

restaurant will remain open

in Bethlehem until Saturday

December 14th and the tasting

room until Sunday December

22nd. Thereafter the tasting room

will be moved to the new Katikati

site where wine lovers will be

able to continue discovering and

enjoying the Mills Reef wines on

offer.

The present Bethlehem site is

already in the initial stages of

redevelopment into a lifestyle

retirement village. The landmark

art-deco winery building will

be retained and extended to

eventually become a communal

centre for the village. Says Tim

“it’s great that the winery’s history

on this site is being preserved

through retention of the building,

whilst naming of the village and its

streets also pays homage to that

history”.

Tim further acknowledges

that over the 25 years Mills Reef

has been on its Bethlehem site,

there have been many special

occasions including weddings

and celebrations. He says “it’s

great that the main building will

remain to retain those memories.”

As for the winery’s new Katikati

location, Tim says “we look

forward to partnering with Leveret

Estate to offer wine lovers a new

and exciting wine destination

experience for the Bay”.

Likewise, Director of Leveret

Estate Wines, Fiona MacDiarmid,

says “we’ve had a long

association with Mills Reef, and

this move to begin sharing our

winemaking facilities and cellar

door is an exciting development.”

24 WineNZ Magazine | Summer 2019/2020


Wine & Time

THE LATEST BUZZ

Now you can enjoy lower

alcohol wine.

A first year Bachelor of Viticulture and Wine

Science student at EIT will be the lucky

recipient of the new scholarship.

Substantial scholarship up

for grabs for viticulture &

wine student

The EIT Viticulture and Wine Science team

are excited to announce a new scholarship.

The scholarship will be awarded to one 2020

first year student enrolled in the Bachelor of

Viticulture and Wine Science* and is offered

by organic winegrowing company Urlar from

Gladstone, Wairarapa.

The scholarship has been established by

Kohei Koyama, Winegrower and Director

for Urlar. Kohei completed a law degree at

the University of Tokyo and worked in the

financial sector for over a decade. He then

came to New Zealand to pursue his dream

of winemaking. Kohei gained a degree

in Viticulture and Oenology and is now

dedicated to support people to thrive in the

wine industry.

“We are looking for applicants who are

highly motivated and passionate about

organic viticulture and winemaking,”

says Kohei. “The ideal candidate is highly

committed to the wine industry and of

course a wine lover.”

Any first year Bachelor of Viticulture and

Wine Science student will be able to apply

for the scholarship with a preference for

applicants from the Wairarapa district.

The grant will be awarded at the end of

semester one of the first year of the degree

and will be paid across the whole degree.

The successful recipient will also have

practical work opportunities working for the

organic fine wine producer.

“The generous $10,000 scholarship will

make a huge difference to a student,”

says Sue Blackmore, Head of School of

Viticulture and Wine Science. “It’s a fantastic

opportunity to cover costs and study in the

most diverse wine area in New Zealand.”

*Subject to approval and accreditation.

Lighter wines are bold , full of flavour and

naturally lower in alcohol. When it comes

to world of wine sipping, there’s usually an

all-or-nothing mentality: You can still enjoy a

glass without giving up what New Zealand

wine is famous for - premium quality, varietally

expressive and delicious wines. You can even

say that lighter wines from New Zealand

are perfectly matched with those aiming

for balance when it comes to incorporating

wellness in their life.

Low alcohol wine sales have dramatically

increased in the last five years. New Zealand

has set out to be a pioneer in the low alcohol

wine category, with consumers showing

a growing appetite for such products. The

challenge has been to create wines that

maintain the same quality as their traditional

counterparts, but Stoneleigh believe its new

launches have succeeded: Quite often,

experienced wine tasters don’t know it’s a

lighter wine until we tell them.

2019 Wine Challenge

CONGRATULATIONS: Congratulations to the

teams at Forrest Wines and Spy Valley for

collecting awards at the 2019 International

Wine Challenge. Forrest Wines, The Doctors’

Sauvignon Blanc 2018 picked up a Bronze and

Spy Valley Easy Tiger Sauvignon Blanc 2018 a

Highly Commended. Beth Forrest comes from a

family legacy wine business and is one of the

women making inroads in the industry.

Barossa wine sector gets

financial boost to promote

wines in China and USA

Barossa wine industry has been given a

financial shot in the arm thanks to a $470,000

government grant to promote Barossa wine

in China and the USA, and attract more

international tourists in to the region.


Source: Vinex

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz

25


Wine & Time

Sonoma's Kincade Fire Claims

75,000 Acres

What does Wine

research and

development

achieve in

New Zealand?

The largest research and development

effort ever undertaken by the New Zealand

wine industry designed to position New

Zealand as number 1 in the world for high

quality, lower alcohol and lower calorie

wines is underway.

“The lifestyle Wines Programme will raise

New Zealand already strong reputation for

producing some of the world’s finest wines,”

says Justine Gilliland, MPI’s director PGP. “This

is the first wine industry programme under

the PGP, marking not only an exciting time

for the PGP but for our wine industry.

Phillip Gregan, New Zealand’s Wine

Growers CEO, says the programme aims

to capitalise on market-led opportunities

domestically and internationally. “Research

indicates that an increasing proportion

of consumers are making purchasing

decisions around their lifestyle, such as

choosing healthier foods and lower alcohol

wines” he says.

“Our challenge now is not just producing

high quality lower alcohol and lower calorie

wines but producing them naturally-this will

give New Zealand a point of difference and

make New Zealand the “go to” country for

high quality, lower alcohol and lower calorie

wines.

The programme will develop a number of

viticulture and winery tools that will enable

the industry to service the rapidly growing

market for lower calorie and lower alcohol

wines with high quality, naturally-produced

options.

MPI will invest up to NZ$8.13 million in

this PGP programme over seven years,

with $8.84 million coming from industry

partners as a mixture of cash and in-kind

contributions.

With evacuation orders in effect, some vintners know

their properties survived, while other are in the dark.

According to California state agency Cal fire, the

Kincade fire has burned 75,415 acres and is 15

percent contained as of Tuesday morning. At least

123 structures, including Soda Rock Winery and

the home of Jackson Valley Wines’ Julia Jackson,

have been destroyed. The National Weather service

has issued a wind advisory for the region which will

go into effect at noon today; with gusts forecast to

reach 45 to 65 mph, concerns are high that the fire

will continue to spread.

Viva Vino Italiano

Italian wine imports to

New Zealand have

more than doubled

in the past five years

with almost million litres

coming into the country

last

year. Italy is the third

largest exporter of wine

to New Zealand behind

Australia and France.

Vino Italiano

showcased 150 Italian

wines for tasting at

the August 31 event

in Auckland. It was

attended by 16

representatives from

Italian wineries.

Organiser Marco

Nordio, the director of

leading Italian wine

importer Sapori d’ Italia,

says New Zealand is

a nation of discerning

wine drinkers and the

growth and popularity

of Italian wines provides

Kiwi wine lovers with

greater choice.

Italian winemakers

attending Vino Italiano

include Antonio Benanti

of Benanti Winery,

located on the slopes

of Mt Etna in Sicily;

Pio Boffa, owner of

renowned 138-yearold

winery Pio Cesare

in Piedmont, Northern

Italy; and Tuscan

winery Ricasoli which

documents the history

of Chianti Classico.

Sommelier Andrea

Martinisi from The Grove,

who represented New

Zealand for the first time

at an ASI World Best

Sommelier Contest in

Belgium in March, ran

a master class at the

event.

Other master

classes

conducted by:

∞ New Zealand wine

writer, Yvonne Lorkin,

on Kiwi versions of

Italian classics

∞ Angelo Minelli of Wine

Searcher on Metodo

Classico: Franciacorta,

Trento and other

DOCs

The majority of the

wines available at Vino

Italiano are usually

only available in select

restaurants, making it a

rare opportunity to do

tastings. The food was

provided by importer

Mediterranean Foods

and the ticket price

includes tastings of all

wine and food.

26 WineNZ Magazine | Summer 2019/2020


New Product Releases

Lindauer Goes Free*

For Summer

November 2019

New Zealand's number one sparkling

wine brand has launched the first New

Zealand alcohol-removed sparkling

wine, Lindauer Free*, just in time for

summer festivities!

Fresh and vibrant with a lingering

finish, Lindauer Free* is a great choice

for those that are looking to moderate

their alcohol content this festive season,

but don’t want to sacrifice on flavour or

fun.

Available in Sparkling Brut and

Rosé , this very special Limited Edition

release is made by award-winning

head winemaker Jane De Witt, in the

same way as Lindauer’s traditional

sparkling wine, but with the alcohol

gently removed at the end, leaving only

a trace.

Jane De Witt says, “Lindauer is a party

favourite over summer and there was a

real gap in the market for us to offer our

signature taste and quality, without the

usual alcohol content.

“As a classified sparkling wine, the

grapes are picked, de-juiced, fined,

fermented, stabilised and filtered in the

same way as our other wines. The only

difference is that the product goes

through a gentle and sophisticated

‘Spinning Cone’ process at the end to

remove most of the alcohol,” says Jane.

At no more than 0.5% ABV, Lindauer

Free* has roughly the same amount

of alcohol as you could expect to find

in a ripe banana and some brands of

kombucha.

Lindauer Free* Sparkling Brut and

Rosé are widely available now in

supermarkets and select liquor stores.

Product

information:

Flavour notes:

Brut Lindauer Free* Brut

is fresh, vibrant and

well balanced, with a

lingering finish.

Rosé Lindauer Free*

Rosé has hints of

strawberry and

delightful freshness, a

great structure with a

lingering finish.

Sold in 750ml bottles

with an RRP price of

$13.99

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz

27


New Product releases

SARAH JESSICA PARKER’S

NEW WINE “INVIVO X, SJP”

Recently launched

“ I

nvivo X, Sarah Jessica

Parker Sauvignon

Blanc ”, made from

Marlborough grapes, will be

available nationwide in New

Zealand from early September.

SJP’s New Zealand wine will be

instrumental in raising the profile

of Kiwi Sauvignon Blanc around

the world as it’s also set to launch

in US, Australia, Japan, UK, Ireland,

Hong Kong and Canada .

Sarah Jessica Parker

comments: “I have thoroughly

enjoyed the collaboration with

Rob and Tim, from our initial

conversations discussing wine

styles, to the creative process on

the brand and label design and

of course the Sauvignon Blanc

28 WineNZ Magazine | Summer 2019/2020


New Product Releases

blending session, it’s been one

exciting step after another.”

Loved worldwide for her

acting, perfumes and her

wildly successful shoes, Sarah

Jessica Parker announced her

partnership with New Zealand’s

most innovative wine company

to the world in February this year.

Over a three-hour session, SJP

and the Invivo team finalized the

proportions from each vineyard

to create the exact wine blend.

Sarah Jessica Parker was

hands-on throughout the whole

process: “While I’m new to

winemaking, the Invivo fellows

generously taught, showed and

shared as much of the art and

science of their business and

hopefully I have absorbed some

of their Kiwi confidence.”

This celebrity partnership is

not uncharted territory for the

growing New Zealand wine

brand as Invivo & Co also

produces a successful wine

brand with UK talk show host

Graham Norton . His brand

debuted in 2014 selling

12,000 bottles in the first year

and now today sells 3.5 million

bottles globally . Invivo & Co

looks forward to growing

Sarah Jessica Parker’s

collection of wines to reflect

her personal preferences

and love for wine in the

same way.

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz

29


Feature | NZIT Student Wine

Student wineS

pleaSe the palate

Student winemakers

from NMIT tested

their skills against

the refined palate of

an internationallyrenowned

judge at the

2019 Marlborough Wine Show.

It was the first time student

winemakers were included in

the highly-regarded wine show,

an annual event dedicated to

showcasing Marlborough as a

leading wine region.

The opportunity came about

thanks to NMIT Viticulture and

Winemaking lead tutor, Nadine

Worley, who approached Harriet

Wadworth, marketing and

communications manager

at Wine Marlborough, about

including students in the show.

Harriet agreed and the Ginkgo

Trophy was created especially for

the student category of the show,

named for the Ginkgo tree in the

Marlborough NMIT campus.

As part of the Wine Production

(Level 5) course, first-year

students get the opportunity

to produce their own wine,

making full decisions about

the ingredients, pressing of the

grapes, variety, skin contact,

and more with an allocated 50

kilograms of grapes.

The Wine Production course is

part of the three-year Bachelor

of Viticulture and Winemaking

(Level 7).

Students were then able

to enter their wines into the

Marlborough Wine Show, to be

judged by international wine

judge and Master of Wine

student, Jack Glover. Student

Discover Kinross, a stunning boutique

vineyard hotel, bistro and wine cellar

set deep in the heart of Gibbston,

New Zealand’s spectacular

‘Valley of the Vines.

Only 10 minutes from Arrowtown,

Kinross is the ideal base for wine

lovers to explore Central Otago, ski, or

simply relax in our guest hot tub,

drinking in the view of the stunning

Pisa range. With 14 delightful

cottages, cellar door, wine garden,

bistro and cycle hire on site, we offer

couples, families and good friends a

truly idyllic summer holiday.

Kinross have launched an impressive

wine club offering wine collections

and special vintages from the area’s

leading wine makers including Coal

Pit, Domaine Thomson, Hawkshead,

Valli and Wild Irishman along with our

new wine label, Kinross.

Visit kinross.nz to explore

our world of wine.

30 WineNZ Magazine | Summer 2019

FINALIST, NZ CELLAR DOOR OF THE YEAR 2019


NZIT Student Wine | Feature

wines made for the competition included

Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling and

Pinot Noir.

Henri Steele was the winner of the student

competition and awarded the Gingko

Trophy for her “Steele Pinot Gris 2019”. Jack’s

judging notes said that Henri’s wine had a

“layered palate with cleansing juicy acidity”

and the pear and red apple skin gave it

“varietal intensity”.

Henri says it was exciting to make a wine

from start to finish and to have it entered in

such a prestigious wine show. “It was cool

to be able to make my own wine. At a lot

of other institutes you don’t get to do that

until your second or third year,” she says. “It

was really good to see how I could put two

and two together and put the management

practices into play.”

She says she chose to study winemaking

at NMIT because of the hands-on practical

nature of the course, and the location was

close to home. Henri was also encouraged

by her employers, Berakah Vineyard

Management “I really want to thank them

for their support and how they have allowed

me to gain experience and to continue

working in the industry while I am studying.”

“I’m dyslexic and learn better by example,”

she says. “It also looked like the class would

be one-to-one with the tutors and there

would be lots of hands-on learning. I felt

like I got so much great support from the

tutors and really recommend the course to

practical learners.”

Henri says she hopes to take what she

learns at NMIT and apply it to improving

her parents’ vineyard and wine business in

Marlborough.

BRINGING WORLD CLASS

WINES TO THE WORLD

SINCE 1982

603 Rapaura Road,

Blenheim, Marlborough

Open 7 days

9:30am - 5:30pm

Distributed Nation

Wide by EuroVintage

eurovintage.co.nz

NMIT Viticulture and Winemaking lead tutor

Nadine Worley, Best Student Wine award-winner

Henri Steele, and Wine Marlborough marketing

and communications manager, Harriet

Wadworth.

0800 HUNTERS | www.hunters.co.nz www.winenzmagazine.co.nz | @HuntersWinesNZ 31


Feature | First Lady of Wine

At home

with NZ's

first lAdy

of wiNe

Despite her high public profile as one of the

most awarded and recognised women in

New Zealand wine, Jane Hunter is a reserved,

private person. Charmian Smith visits the

“First lady of New Zeland wine”.

32 WineNZ Magazine | Summer 2019/2020


First Lady of Wine | Feature

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz

33


Feature | First Lady of Wine

Hunter’s walkway 2016

After more

than 30 years

leading Hunter’s

Wines, Jane

Hunter is slowly

stepping back

from the family business, the

only one of the four earliest

Marlborough wineries still in the

same ownership. The younger

generation, nephews, James

and Edward Macdonald, are

taking more responsibility from

Jane and her brother, general

manager Peter Macdonald.l.

Although she’s at Hunter’s

most days and still does some

travelling to promote the wine,

she can now pick and choose

where she wants to go, she says.

It also means that when she

feels like it she can pop away to

Adelaide where she has a house.

She grew up in South Australia

where her parents were in the

wine industry and still has family

there.

An urn among the plantings - one of the delightful little surprises one does

across when walking round the garden.

The Hunter’s story has become

part of the New Zealand wine

legend - the ebullient Irishman

Ernie Hunter founding the winery

in 1979 and going on to win the

top award at the Sunday Times

Vintage Wine Show in the UK in

1986, then again in 1987, 1988,

1992 and 2001. It brought New

Zealand wine and sauvignon

34 WineNZ Magazine | Summer 2019/2020


First Lady of Wine | Feature

A heron sculpture lurks in one corner of a neatly clipped hedge.

If you stick around long

enough, awards and

recognition comes.

blanc in particular to the world’s

notice. However, in 1987 Ernie

was tragically killed in a motor

accident.

Jane Hunter, a viticulturist

working for Montana at the

time, took over the reins and her

determination and expertise

built the company her late

husband had founded into one

of New Zealand’s leading wine

producers.

Jane has been described by

the London Sunday Times as the

“First Lady of New Zealand Wine”

and was awarded an OBE for

service to the wine industry in

1993. Among other awards and

recognitions, she also has an

Honorary Doctorate of Science

from Massey University, received

the inaugural Wine & Spirit

Competition Women in Wine

Award and was awarded the

Companion to the New Zealand

Order of Merit (CNZM) in 2009.

Most recently she was inducted

into the New Zealand Business

Hall of Fame.

But despite all her awards and

achievements she remains low

key, gracious, and even slightly

self-effacing,

“If you stick around long

enough awards and recognition

comes,” she says modestly.

Her reserve is reflected in her

house and garden tucked away

down a private lane in Renwick.

Jane and her husband Graeme

Coates both love gardening

and about three years ago they

moved into a spacious house

A deer made of

vine cuttings lurks

in the bushes.

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz

35


Feature | First Lady of Wine

“What we are finding

now in Marlborough

is a lot of people

want to sell their

vineyards but they’ve

got these whopping

great big houses on

and no one wants

the houses. We all

want vineyards but

we don’t want these

great big houses

that are on them.

I remember dad

saying do not do it.”

The upstairs sitting room with views of the Richmond Ranges is a lovely

place to sit and read or for an intimate chat.

on a secluded, almost half-acre

corner section.

The garden faces north and

west so the sun sweeps right

around. On one side it backs

on to Te Whare Ra’s organic

vineyards and behind the

northern fence is a big ravine

making it difficult to be built out

on that side, she says.

They’ve made some alterations

to the garden, including taking

out several trees and building a

swimming pool on the sheltered

western side of the house.

Tucked away on one side of

the pool is a small vegetable

plot, still to be camouflaged by a

screen.

Irrigation is a limited resource

especially in Renwick, so they

redesigned the automatic

irrigation scheme and installed

a reservoir tank. It runs at night,

and they don’t even try to keep

the lawn green at the height of

summer. But it does mean the

garden looks after itself when

they are away, she says.

In the back corner beyond the

pool a screen hides the working

area, the water tank, compost

bins and garden shed.

The main part of the garden

on the northern side of the

house is in an English style. They

combined two smaller gardens

into a large lawn surrounded by

FROM TOP:

A striking

Australian

Aboriginal work

hangs over the

mantelpiece in

the lounge.

Jane relaxes

on the patio

outside the

kitchen.

Objets d’art,

paintings - all

arranged with

Jane’s natural

flair.

36 WineNZ Magazine | Summer 2019/2020


First Lady of Wine | Feature

Family garden 2018 - from left Peter Macdonald (general manager), Jane Hunter, Edward Macdonald (assistant

general manager) and James Macdonald (senior winemaker).

Jane with Tabitha Jane Hunter & Winery Cat 2016

bedding with taller plants behind

to help shelter it from the wind.

Graeme, who lived in Scotland

for several years, compared the

view of the Richmond Hills from

upstairs to what he had been

used to there - except for a few

deer wandering about, Jane

said. So she gave him some deer

made out of vine cuttings one

Christmas. They now lurk in the

undergrowth.

Jane loves colour in the garden

and having flowers inside. She

mixes hebes with roses, and has

planted lots of lilies, dahlias and

hydrangeas. A pergola, once

a laburnum arch, has been

taken over by roses, wisteria and

clematis. Big colourful geraniums

fill some of the large pots and

sculptures are dotted around,

accenting corners or tucked

away to surprise a visitor strolling

round.

Similar accents of colour and

intrigue, inviting corners and

attractive nooks with interesting

arrangements of objects d’art

feature in the house. Here they

prefer smaller, more intimate

spaces rather than open plan

living, she says.

When there are no guests

staying upstairs, the large

landing with the sun streaming

in and views of the Richmond

Hills is a lovely place to sit and

read or for an intimate chat.

Characteristically it features

several of Jane’s attractive nooks

and interesting arrangements.

A striking South Australian

Aboriginal work hangs over

the fireplace in the downstairs

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz

37


Feature | First Lady of Wine

Cellar Door 2018

“When I was

growing up in

South Australia,

my father always

said ‘never put

your house on a

vineyard,” she said.

lounge, with new cabinetry either

side. On the opposite wall is a

large drawing of dogs that used

to decorate Hunter’s restaurant.

When it closed to make way for

the renovated cellar door, she

brought it home.

Over the years Jane has

had numerous canine friends

who featured in the Hunter’s

newsletter, but now she only has

Bella, a large, elderly ginger cat.

She is set in her ways and always

chooses the best places to sleep,

Jane says with a laugh.

Perhaps surprisingly, she chose

not to live in a vineyard.

“When I was growing up in

South Australia, my father always

said ‘never put your house on a

vineyard,” she said.

“What we are finding now in

Marlborough is a lot of people

want to sell their vineyards but

they’ve got these whopping

great big houses on and no one

wants the houses. We all want

vineyards but we don’t want

these great big houses that are

on them. I remember dad saying

do not do it.”

The village of Renwick has been

Jane’s home for many years. She

used to live a couple of streets

away from her present house in a

beautiful old cob cottage she’d

renovated. Then she and Graeme

lived in Blenheim near the Wither

Hills for a few years before looking

for a place with a larger garden.

Jane’s flair for gardening

extends to the gracious

surroundings of the Hunter’s cellar

door in Rapaura Rd which is in

the original farmhouse on the

site. It has been through several

incarnations as a restaurant but

was renovated a couple of years

ago, and now also boasts a

resident artist’s studio.

The award-winning, two-hectare

garden includes a native area

featuring local indigenous

vegetation incorporating some

rare and threatened species.

Surrounding the tasting room are

secluded lawns and pergolas

for relaxing with a glass or two of

wine and a platter of food.

HunTER’S WinES

603 Rapaura Rd,

Blenheim.

+64 3 572 8489

www.hunters.co.nz

38 WineNZ Magazine | Summer 2019/2020


First Lady of Wine | Feature

JAnE HunTER’S

FAvOuRiTE WinES

Gewürztraminer - a lush wine

with a surprising dry finish -

great with Asian food.

MiruMiru Rose - love the

colour, love the taste and it's

so summery.

Offshoot Chardonnay - great

texture and complexity - a real

food wine.

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz

39


Tastings | Tasting Intro

Our hosts

EIT Our hosts for all wine tastings

Tim Creagh, supervises the blind tastings, in order for Simon Nash

(Master of Wine) and his team to select a range of Summer Wines

to recommend.

EIT students attend and gain practical hands-on experience in

the tastings.

EIT - A leading wine educator

Located in sunny Hawkes Bay, a region celebrated

for the diversity and quality of its wine styles, EIT’s

School of Viticulture and Wine Science, offers New

Zealand’s widest range of viticulture and wine

science programmes.

Taught by world-class lecturers with industry

experience, EIT’s programmes range from

certificates and degrees to postgraduate

qualifications. These qualifications encompass

viticulture, winemaking, wine business and wine

marketing.

The modern learning environment includes the

institute’s purpose-built winery and organic vineyard

with 20 varieties of grapes growing there. EIT’s strong

connections with the local wine industry open

up opportunities for students to gain hands-on

experience working in wineries and vineyards in the

area.

Aligned with industry partners, EIT continues to

develop innovative programmes. From 2020 the EIT

Viticulture and Wine School will offer a new threeyear

degree providing comprehensive skills and

knowledge in both Viticulture and Wine Science.

The degree provides a strong science foundation

with practical application and industry interaction

in all three years. The degree has in-depth focus

on growing grapes and making wine, as well

as the essential skills required once working in

industry related to wine and business i.e. people

management and wine marketing. The latest

research findings, industry technology and

important issues related to sustainability are key

topics.

Students will get an opportunity to make their

own wine, work in vineyards, complete a harvest

internship, develop a wine palate and gain

practical skills like tractor driving, first aid and forklift

licence within the degree structure. Students will be

able to study courses full- or part-time as well as by

up-to date distance online learning.

Master of Wines, Simon Nash. WineNZ Taster Profile & Team Leader.

Simon Nash M.A., Master of Wine (1994), Wine agent and consultant. With over

30 years’ experience internationally, Simon is based in Hawkes’ Bay, NZ and

works in a wide variety of roles.

Simon also judges wine and leads the programme for WineNZ magazine.

Additionally, he is a judge and consultant to the Fine Wines of New Zealand

programme, supported by Air New Zealand.

40 WineNZ Magazine | Summer 2019/2020


Tasting Intro | Tastings

Chris Scott | Graduate

Chief Winemaker at

Church Road Winery

NEW

UPDATED

DEGREE

FOR 2020

Make your passion

your profession

Bachelor of Viticulture & Wine Science

New to EIT in Hawke’s Bay in 2020 – an

updated three year degree which will give

you comprehensive skills and knowledge in

both Viticulture & Wine Science.

The degree provides a strong science

foundation with practical application and

industry interaction in all three years. There

is an in-depth focus on growing grapes

and making wine, as well as the essential

skills required once working in industry

related to people management and

wine marketing.

The latest research, industry technology

and important issues related to

sustainability are key topics. You will get an

opportunity to make your own wine, work

in a vineyard, complete a harvest internship,

develop a wine palate and gain practical

skills like tractor driving, first aid and forklift

license within the degree structure.

With EIT’s flexible study approach you

can study the BVWSc degree either fulltime

on-campus or part-time via distance

learning. You are welcome to make an

appointment to discuss your study options

with our staff either in person or by phone

and to view our facilities.

There’s never been a better time or place

to discover the intriguing world of wine.

eit.ac.nz | 0800 22 55 348 |

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz

41


Tastings | Summer Wine Suggestions

Summer win

Our Wine Tasting Team, headed by Master of Wine,

Simon Nash, is looking to change the way our

tastings are conducted in order to better provide

readers with responsible guides to wines available in

New Zealand.

While this is under way, in lieu of our regular summer

tasting, we have asked our judging team to each

recommend 3 choices; Sparkling, Rose, Sauvignon

Blanc. Please do enjoy these options for summer

sipping along with your usual favourites.

Sauvignon Blanc

Seifried Family Winemakers

Sauvignon Blanc Nelson 2019

Simon Nash: Very pale, bright, light aromatics,

almost sherbet, quite delicate, youthful, possibly

a bit dilute? Good lemon/lime flowers.

Matt Kirby: Very focused, lime blossom

with orange and mandarin. Palate is long and

enduring, very good.

Barry Riwai: Classical, currant bud, nettles,

passion lime. Great array of aromas carries

through to the palate. Good length with a ripe

full-flavoured finish.

Hamden Estate

Dry River Terraces 2019 Martinborough

Simon Nash: Light pale, fresh looking. Shy

nose, quite reserved, more weighty. Good

weight. Sweaty, quite complex, serious, will

develop.

Matt Kirby: Dusky and restrained aromas,

Palate has moderate intensity, with orange and

nettle.

Barry Riwai: Nettles, hint of thyme and lime,

may be peppery, spice. Palate is still a little

disjointed but plenty of potential.

42 WineNZ Magazine | Summer 2019/2020


Summer Wine Suggestions | Tastings

e suggestions

Auntsfield

Single Vineyard

Marlborough 2019

Simon Nash: Pale bright,

fresh juicy, mix lifted,

pithy grapefruit, clean

very youthful, crisp,

citrus, lime, very pure,

enough complexity.

Matt Kirby: Sea spray

and ripe notes of fennel,

guava and lychee. Palate

long, a richness and

sweetness but shows

balance.

Barry Riwai: Fennel,

lime, some with a touch

of tropical passionfruit.

Mango, full weighty

palate. Persistent back

palate. Some thiol but

gives length.

Toitoi

Sauvignon Blanc

Marlborough 2019

Simon Nash: Very pale, light

bright. Light lemon also some

chalky notes. Nicely balanced. Soft

edge but good mid-palate, lime juice.

Matt Kirby: Very aromatic of passionfruit and guava.

Concentrated palate with powerful fruit and balance.

Barry Riwai: Mango, pineapple, touch of navel orange. Fuller

riper style. Good weight with a bit of warmth. Passionfruit

flavours with acidity tighten the finish.

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz

43


Tastings | Summer Wine Suggestions

Sauvignon Blanc

Seifried Family Winemakers

Old Coach Road Sauvignon Blanc Nelson 2019

Simon Nash: Fuller lemon, some weight. Some sulphur reductive

character, bitter lemon drops, nice fruit, possibly lacks intensity mid palate,

sound expression, and good finish.

Matt Kirby: Softer aromatics, Mandarin and lychee, the palate is textured

and flows nicely with good balance.

Barry Riwai: Fruit with natural expression, Lemon and passionfruit,

understated palate, greywacke fruitiness carries through.

Donaldson Family

Main Divide Sauvignon Blanc

Canterbury 2019

Simon Nash: Mid lemon colour, sweaty

with some matchstick characters, solid

style, quite broad, some complexity with

citrus and texture driven character.

Barry Riwai: Fruit with mineral

expression. Lemon and passionfruit,

understated palate.

Matt Kirby: Appealing strawberry leaf

notes. Good tension to the palate with

mineral or salt spray characters.

Domain Road

Sauvignon Blanc Central

Otago 2017

Simon Nash: Nice colour, bright with

lime tints, quite peas, asparagus-like on

the nose, quite developed, ditto palate,

green edge fruit spectrum, olives etc.

Matt Kirby: White floral, tropical

melon and lychee, some development

that is held well by good acidity.

Barry Riwai: Red currant, berryish

nose, backed by a leafy tomatillo/cape

gooseberry aroma, very pretty perfume,

medium length and line.

44 WineNZ Magazine | Summer 2019/2020


Summer Wine Suggestions | Tastings

Rosé

Bladen

Pinot Rose Marlborough 2019

Simon Nash: Light pale pink bright

almost watery, quite nice, delicate

rouge/face powder, good on palate,

juicy, zesty, good acidity off dry,

quite crunchy.

Matt Kirby: White floral, hair oil

and strawberry. Good balance and

some structure. Well made.

Barry Riwai: Palest pink, array of

berry fruits and candyfloss. Light

but with good intensity of flavour,

would be easy to drink, fine subtle

finish with layers to explore and

entertain.

Hamden Estate

Dry River Terraces Pinot Rose Martinborough 2019

Simon Nash: Almost cherryade colour, light neon bright, raspberry, even

cola/cherryade nose, dry entry but also quite chewy/tannic, solid finish.

Matt Kirby: Super light hued, glossy, strawberry and cherry palate, is full

and appealing with great balance.

Barry Riwai: Vibrant red vermillion. Cherry aromas with dried strawberry.

Good phenolic texture but with some alcohol heat, medium carry.

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz

45


Tastings | Summer Wine Suggestions

Rosé

Domain Road

Pinot Noir Rose Central Otago 2019

Simon Nash: Pink bright some body, strawberry shortcake,

quite nice, off dry, good acidity, fresh, quite lively, Grippy,

good fruit.

Matt Kirby: Attractive, light tuned fruit, melon and

watermelon. Good drive focus.

Barry Riwai: Smokers lollies, blood orange, some flinty

reduction. Dry linear palate, finishes with minerality,

would like more fruit generosity.

Hunter’s

Marlborough MiruMiru

Rose NV

Simon Nash: Nice pale, salmon pink

colour, bright leafy strawberry nose, good

fruit but quite simple, soft, but short.

Matt Kirby: Complex biscuitty, rose, tea

leaf, palate is textured and full.

Barry Riwai: Pretty pink, creamy hint of

berry, peach, creamy meal, tasty grains,

medium length, attractive yeasty finish.

Wild Earth Wines

Pinot Noir Rose Central Otago 2019

Simon Nash: Lively, pink, bright, quite light. Nice lifted strawberry leafy.

Soft on entry, dry impact, not zesty, lively though.

Matt Kirby: Strawberry, cream and cherry aromas with a weighty palate.

With almond meal and good balance.

Barry Riwai: Vibrant colour, rosehip and spice, raspberry, very complex,

bone dry finish with oodles of berry and

apple flavour, very good structure

and soft acidity.

46 WineNZ Magazine | Summer 2019/2020


Summer Wine Suggestions | Tastings

Hunter’s

Pinot Noir Rose Marlborough 2019

Simon Nash: Nice lipstick pink, bright, nice nose, dry vinous and nice

balance. Off dry with good juice grip. Long flavour.

Matt Kirby: Some light tones quite lifted aromas, blood orange and

good balance.

Barry Riwai: Closed nose, some reduction. Purely textural palate dry

and lean, but neutral. Reduction gives focus to the palate. Palest pink.

Glover Family Vineyards

Zephyr MKI

Rose Marlborough 2019

Simon Nash: Fresh looking, bright,

light, leafy but quite shy character. Nose

is dry but quite flat fruit.

Matt Kirby: Eucalyptus and spearmint

aromas. Good tension to the palate with

great acidity and dry finish.

Barry Riwai: Raspberry with a slight

blackcurrant edge. Bright sherbet

acidity. Medium concentration. Light

and fresh.

Pask Winery

Instinct Berry Blush Hawkes’

Bay 2019

Simon Nash: Quite full pink, blood

orange colour, quite weighty, pink

grapefruit blood orange nose, nice

balanced palate, quite soft but with

some juicy fruit.

Matt Kirby: Super ripe tropical fruit

characteristics, palate less moderate

intensity with strawberry and fennel.

Barry Riwai: Plum and royal gala

toffee apple, dry full bodied, mid palate.

Hints of blood orange.

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz

47


Tastings | Summer Wine Suggestions

Sparkling

Pernod Ricard Petit Cordon

Brut Prestige NV Marlborough

Simon Nash: Quite full colour, very nice

crunchy, biscuitty, nice autolytic zest.

Attractive, open, bready, elegant, classy

acidity, long finish.

Matt Kirby: Opulent, white floral, and

stone fruit. Some yeasty notes well

balanced, umami.

Barry Riwai: Yeast autolytic,

marmite, almond, hazelnut, very

fine structure but with robust

yeasty umami flavours, very

long, perfect balance.

Hunter’s

MiruMiru

Reserve

Marlborough

2015

Simon Nash: Bright,

light/gold, some

brioche/baked pastry.

Matt Kirby: Some

great brioche lees.

Characters good

interesting and great

balance, marmite.

Barry Riwai: yeasty

nose, meal lemon and

crispy croissant. Firm

structure, perhaps needing a touch

more softness, would suit a fish dish with its

lemony acidity.

48 WineNZ Magazine | Summer 2019/2020


Summer Wine Suggestions | Tastings

Hunter’s

Marlborough MiruMiru Rose NV

Simon Nash: Nice pale, salmon pink colour, bright leafy strawberry nose,

good fruit but quite simple, soft, but short.

Matt Kirby: Complex biscuitty, rose, tea leaf, palate is textured and full.

Barry Riwai: Pretty pink, creamy hint of berry, peach, creamy meal, tasty

grains, medium length, attractive yeasty finish.

Hihi Wines

Hihi Sparkling Albarino

Gisborne 2019

Hihi Wines

Hihi Gizzy Fizzy

Gisborne 2019

Hihi Wines

Hihi Bubbly As

Gisborne NV

Simon Nash: Mid, bright, lively,

some lemon note, quite short,

lemony up front, zest, but short

simple finish.

Matt Kirby: Clean crisp apricot.

White flower, some sweetness but

balance is achieved.

Barry Riwai: Orange blossom and

green melon, more frizzante style,

fresh fruited but with an attractive

dry finish.

Simon Nash: Full lemon/gold,

bright, though frothy on the rim,

ripe lemony note, quite simple,

lemony, light but juicy and

clean.

Matt Kirby: Bigger style, with

apple skin and honey, broader

palate.

Barry Riwai: Nutty almond

nose, strudel like apple spice a

little hard on the finish.

Simon Nash: Full colour,

gold, bright. Lifted peaches

and cream. Viognier style, ripe

fleshy broad, quite sweet, plum,

simple finish.

Matt Kirby: Lychee, rose petal,

Turkish delight, moderate dry,

will have appeal.

Barry Riwai: Candied lemon

zest, and citrus blossom, dry

finish, toffee and seared lemon.

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz

49


Advertorial

Sauvignon

Martinborough's

way

Hamden Estate is

located on the Dry

River terraces about

six kilometres south

of Martinborough.

The area was

originally part of Dry River

Station, which was established in

1877. Nearby vineyards include

Luna Blue Rock, Coneys, Grava,

Stonecrop, Cirrus and Arapai.

The river terraces are about

10 metres deep at Hamden

Estate. The terroir typically

comprises river stones and silt,

with a high limestone content

from the surrounding hills. The

site is quite exposed, particularly

to the prevailing north-west

weather, and despite slightly

cooler temperatures than

Martinborough itself, is largely

frost-free. The open aspect

helps keep the canopy dry and

mitigates disease pressure.

David Iggulden is a retired

lawyer, while Jo works in the gas

industry in Wellington. Their lifelong

love of wine and vineyards

developed on the back of their

travels in Europe and grew

through friends and wine clubs.

David completed studies in

viticulture and winemaking at the

Eastern Institute of Technology,

ostensibly as an extension of his

interest in wine and winemaking,

rather than in preparation for

entering the industry.

The purchase of the vineyard

site came about almost

by chance. A weekend in

Martinborough led to the

discovery and purchase of 20

acres of bare land from a local

sheep farmer. This marked

the start of a near continual

commute between their home

and work in Hawera and the

vineyard in Martinborough.

David and Jo were well

supported by family and friends

in these early years as they

developed the vineyard. The

occasional mismatch between

the romantic notion of life on the

vineyard and the hard reality of

working in the heat and stony

ground was cured with good

humour, good music and good

wine.

Today, the vineyard canopy

totals about three hectares. The

initial vines were established in

2001/2002, with the balance

planted in 2009. There is a

large section of pinot noir, with

smaller plantings of chardonnay,

sauvignon blanc and pinot gris.

The vineyard also includes a tiny

amount of Riesling, and although

it tends to struggle on our site, it

produces extremely good wine.

Hamden Estate is an

accredited sustainable vineyard.

50 WineNZ Magazine | Summer 2019/2020


Advertorial

Jo and David have applied

sustainable practices from

day one – from a light-touch

approach to spraying through to

using sheep to control undervine

weeds and leaf plucking. They

also use seaweed teas as foliar

fertiliser and conduct regular

soil testing to confirm that they

are having a positive effect on

the vineyard. The outcome is a

minimal intervention approach

that produces very clean fruit.

The wines have been made

at Margrain Vineyard by Strat

Canning for the past twelve

years. David and Strat have

a great working relationship,

discussing styles prior to

each vintage and making

subtle tweaks to suit fruit and

production. Strat is an innovative

winemaker and has been happy

to work with David’s penchant

for experimentation. Strat also

tolerates David operating as

Chief Apprentice during vintage.

This year’s sauvignon blanc

is a great example of the

complimentary approach

enjoyed by Strat and David. Jo

and David had made a trip to

the Peljesac Peninsula in Croatia

earlier in the year. They came

across a tiny winery feeding

grapes through a crusher on

the side of the road, with the

must chilled with a couple of

bags of ice. Using a mix of sign

language and broken English,

David was able to establish that

the aromatic grapes received

up to seven days skin contact.

Several tastings confirmed that

the wine did not lack for finesse

or character. On his return to

Martinborough, David discussed

the idea with Strat. Not wishing to

go down the orange wine road,

they agreed that an overnight

soak on the skins would be a

good start. The result is, of course,

the wine that features this month.

This wine might be recognised

as a little closer to the traditional

New Zealand Sauvignon

overlaid with Martinborough

characteristics. It shows

passionfruit and pineapple on

the nose continuing through to

the palate without any harsh

acidity. To have our wine stand

alongside the multi-trophy

winning Seifried Sauvignon Blanc

is somewhat humbling.

Jo and David have been

resident on the Vineyard since

2009. They are in the process of

establishing accommodation

on site so that they can host

visitors amongst the vines. There

is a cellar door with tastings

available most weekends and

every day during the Christmas

period. David likes nothing better

than a conversation about wine,

preferably with a glass in hand.

He can also tell you the story

behind the distinctive paper doll

label and elucidate on the merits

of living in a house with three

daughters.

Address: 214 Dry River Road

Martinborough

Available on line:

www.hamdendenestate.co.nz

e-mail:info@hamdenestate.co.nz

Wines available online,at the

cellar door (open weekends

and by appointment) and

Martinborough Wine Merchants.

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz

51


Food | Vic's Food N Wine...

Vic Williams

Vic Williams is a seasoned wine and food writer who

has spent the last 25 years communicating about

their combinations in print and on radio.

Time to relax

The sun is shining,

the working year is

behind us and the

lengthening days

suggest a twilight walk

followed by a relaxing

glass of something cool and

undemanding before dinner.

That is the promise of summer,

and after a spring induced by

climate change to deliver even

more unpredictability than usual,

it’s quite a relief.

Now is the time to get creative

about our evening meals,

trying new recipes that may

well become staples in the

year ahead accompanied

by wines that are new to our

repertoire. Statistics tells us that

most shoppers, confronted

by the bewildering number of

labels on the shelves, stick with

those they know. That’s a shame.

Winemakers are an adventurous

lot, and because our industry

is relatively young they are

constantly experimenting, with

often-exciting results.

As consumers, we can support

this initiative, but venturing

further afield we can also add

imported styles that have a long

history in their countries of origin

but are not commonly seen on

our own tables.

The fact that you are reading

this magazine shows that you

have a keen interest in the

product of the grape, and are

well aware that it is the only

beverage specifically designed

to accompany good, honest

food. That is the premise of

this column, but as always, the

matches outlined on these

pages are only suggestions. Real

joy is to be found in discovering

your own ‘perfect combo’.

Have fun!

Mirin-grilled carrot sticks

in nasturtiuM leaVes

Wine match: Méthode Traditionnelle sparkling wine

This idea for a pre-lunch or

dinner nibble was born from a

desire to find a new use for the

prolific nasturtium plants that

occupy a corner of the garden.

Trim carrots to form straightsided

batons and place in

boiling water for three or four

minutes, until slightly softened.

Cut each baton lengthwise

into four sticks, toss in olive oil

and mirin (sweet Japanese rice

wine) and grill briefly to lightly

caramelise. Smear a

thin layer of miso paste

onto the underside of

nasturtium leaves and

roll each one around

a carrot stick. It is the

miso that makes the

dish work so well with

a yeasty Méthode.

Made from fermented

soy beans, it has an

earthiness that sits

perfectly with the wine.

52 WineNZ Magazine | Summer 2019/2020


Vic's Food N Wine... | Food

tea-sMoked salMon With hoMe-Made

pita toasts

Wine match: Pinot Gris

To hot-smoke skin-on salmon,

clear it carefully of its pin bones

using tweezers or needle-nosed

pliers, then marinate it flesh side

down for a couple of hours in a

splash each of soy sauce, mirin

and Shao Xing (Chinese rice

wine). Line a wok with a double

layer of foil and add a couple

of tablespoons each of white

rice (uncooked) and tea leaves

(we used Lapsang Souchong),

plus a teaspoon of raw sugar

and about half the marinade

liquid. Heat on high until smoke

begins to appear, then place the

salmon, skin side down, on a rack

over the top. Cover and seal the

gap between wok and lid with

rolled tea-towels (use old ones –

they’ll go brown). Smoke for three

minutes, turn the

heat off and leave

the lid on for a

further four or five

minutes. Serve

warm or at room

temperature with

grilled triangles

of split pita

bread. This dish

works well with a

smoky, oak-aged

Chardonnay, but

it is a standout with

a dryish Pinot Gris. If

the back label doesn’t

divulge the sweetness level,

buy from a good wine shop

and ask for one with a residual

sugar level under 8gm/L.

hoMe-Made

pappardelle pasta

With rocket and

Walnut pesto

Wine match: Chardonnay

Making pasta at home using a

hand-rolled machine or, if you are

really keen, a rolling pin is simple

and satisfying, but the dish will work

just as well with a shop-bought

dried style. It is the pesto, made by

pulsing rocket leaves, garlic, walnuts,

Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese and

extra-virgin olive oil, that provides

the wine link. Chardonnay that

has been fermented and matured

in French oak barriques (225-litre

barrels) develops a nuttiness that

is perfectly complemented by the

walnuts, while the faintly hot rocket

brings out the wine’s fruit acids.

We poured a Villa Maria Reserve

Gisborne Barrique 2015, but any

good oak-aged example will do the

business.

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz

53


Food | Vic's Food N Wine...

Beef and laMB MeatBalls With Baked VegetaBles

Wine match: Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot blend

Adding about one-third lamb mince to

the lean beef helped these meatballs hold

together, although we still encouraged the

process by stirring in a beaten egg and

a judicious sprinkling of breadcrumbs.

Spice was provided by ground cumin and

cinnamon, chopped and pre-fried red onion

and garlic plus a handful of finely chopped

parsley and Vietnamese mint. Browned in

oil, the meatballs were folded through a

melange of capsicums, red onion wedges

and thickly sliced parboiled potatoes before

the whole combo was sprinkled with sweet

paprika, seasoned and roasted. The dish

works with almost any robust red, but it is

particularly successful with the blackcurrant

and sweet spice characters of a Cabernet

Sauvignon/Merlot blend. Cabernet’s upfront

fruit is accentuated by the capsicums, while

the meatballs are cosseted by the savoury

warmth of fully ripe Merlot. All boxes ticked!

spicy eggplant

Wine match: Primitivo

Eggplant, cut into thick wedges

and browned in oil, was tossed

in a cautious amount of Harissa

and brown rice malt syrup, plus

seasoning. The result was flavourloaded,

sticky unctuousness that

we discovered was perfectly

matched by the gutsy, sweetedged

flavours of Primitivo – the

Italian grape that, it has been

proved, is named Zinfandel in the

US. The eggplant is addictively

delicious on its own, but offallovers

could emphasise its

rusticity by serving it alongside

thick slices of pink-cooked lamb’s

fry. The Primitivo we opened

was from Domodo in the Italian

province of Puglia, situated in

the ‘heel’ of this boot-shaped

country.

54 WineNZ Magazine | Summer 2019/2020


OUR WATER


Guylian the world’s favourite Belgian chocolates.

The perfect match for any occasion.

The World’s Favourite Belgian Chocolates


Restaurant Reviews | Feature

THE CLARENCE

HOTEL AND BISTRO

By Joan Gestro

The new Clarence

Hotel and Bistro is

now situated where

once was the historic

Tauranga Post Office, a

beautiful building with a

gracious frontage, a rotunda on

one side serving as a popular bar

area in the summer.

The Clarence Hotel and Bistro

now boasts two chic and funky

restaurants, fine accommodation

upstairs with 10 individually

designed suites. The symbolic

representation of the Bee

comes from the existing tiles

on the roof, manufactured in

Marseille, France. Government

buildings the world over have

commissioned tiles such as these

and now their adventure has

come a long way to rest above

our heads.

We dined in the Bistro, we

found it interesting seeing chefs

preparing fine cuisine. We

were lucky to have David, our

French waiter, with his extensive

knowledge matched our three

courses with the right wine.

The Bistro serves innovative and

classic dishes, if you are looking

for a more casual fare, try the Iki

Bar, whose staff go out of their

way to make you feel welcome;

surrounded by music, cocktails,

wines, craft beers and Southern

Asian Street food to delight your

appetite.

Our First course:

Colin’s choice of Pork Schmaltz

with Love Rosie’s Bread was

matched with Nautilus Rose

2015, a sparkling wine from

Marlborough- Berry fruit and

Brioche notes. This sparkling

wine cleans your palate for the

next course.

My choice of Anchovies,

matched with Dry Riesling

Spatlese “Fromm” 2018 from

Marlborough, with fresh acidity to

cut the saltiness of the Anchovies,

which were tender, delicious, not

too salty, a product of Italy.

Our Second Course:

Colin chose Consommé, his dish

matched with Arneis 2015 Hawkes

Bay lime and honey aromas with

a dry finish to work really well

with the strong aromas of the

Consommé dish.

My choice was Truffle Risotto

matched with Harakeke

Chardonnay 2015 from Nelson,

Nectarine, peach and oak

aromas nice texture to work with

my delicious creamy risotto.

Our Third Course

Colin’s choice of Coq au Vin was

matched with a Central Otago

Tekapoto Estate 2013 Pinot Noir.

Nice tannins flavours to work

with the poultry dish. A small

winery with a fantastic philosophy

around the wine. This wine is

a multi-awarded world best at

London’s IWSC.

My choice Goat Ragu, I asked

David our wine buff at Clarence restaurant.

for a small portion which came

smothered in pappardelle with

not enough of the delicious

Ragu. Still a generous portion

and delicious. David matched

this dish with Waiheke Island Man

O’ War-Dreadnought 2016 Syrah,

Intense Cherry and Liquorice

flavours and tannins to balance

the Caribbean spiced Ragu.

We enjoyed the experience with

delicious food good staff who

made you feel welcome and help

in any way to make our evening a

great experience. We will certainly

be back as they also offer A Five

Course Tasting menu with wine

match. Can’t wait to enjoy this

with a bunch of friends.

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz

57


How best to subscribe to every

issue of wine NZ

magazine.

Go to...

Isubscribe.co.nz

And search Wine NZ.

Or write to

Wine NZ magazine

P.O.Box 13257.

Tauranga 3141.

Annual sub.. $39.60

Two year sub..$75.20


New Zealand Cellar Door

of the Year 2019

We are delighted to have won the inaugural Cellar Door of the Year Award at

the New Zealand Wine Awards 2019.

Come and enjoy the full food and wine experience for yourself at the home of Church Road.

We have a range of different, immersive and interactive experiences available for visitors.

Enjoy Responsibly

150 Church Road, Taradale, Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand

info@churchroad.co.nz | +6468338225 | www.church-road.com

See our website for opening hours, experiences and restaurant bookings.


HAWKE’S BAY’S LIFESTYLE MAGAZINE

THE 28TH ANNUAL HAWKE’S BAY

Thank you

Thanks to the generous support of everyone involved, this years auction

was a roaring success. We raised a total of $241,100.

With the backing of our wonderful group of wineries and sponsors, all the money

raised at auction goes directly to Cranford Hospice. Thank you all!

hbwineauction

@hawkesbaywineauction hawkesbaywineauction.co.nz

mardigras

EVENT HIRE

LIVING

Hawke’s Bay

mardigras

EVENT HIRE


Food & Wine Events | Food

Food & Wine Events














Marlborough Wine and Food

(February 8 th 2020)

Whitianga Scallop Festival

(September 21 st 2019)

Toast Martinborough

(November 17 th 2019)

Waiheke Wine and Food Festival.

(May not be held in 2020)

Hawkes Bay Wine and Food

(June)

Graggy Range

(November)

Taste of Auckland

(October 31 st – November 3 rd )

Hokitika Wildfoods Festival

(March 7 th 2020)

Wellington on a Plate two weeks

(August)

Bluff Oysters Food Festival

(May 23 rd 2020)

Central Otago Pinot Noir

Celebration

(January 30th- February 1 st 2020)

North Canterbury Wine and

Food Festival (Waipara Valley)

(8 th March 2020)

Pinot Noir New Zealand 2021

Christchurch

(February 23 rd – 25 th 2021)

These are mostly annual events with dates

being as accurate as possible. Please Google

for updates as they are posted by organizers

of events.

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz

61


Feature | Tripping Around the Vines

TRiPPinG AROUnD

THE VinEs

By Joan Gestro

MARTINBOROUGH

Our two-and-a-half-hour trip up the East Coast, after

leaving Wellington, over the windy Rimutakas, was

rewarded by the quaint town of Martinborough.

Martinborough is now a boutique town with

Restaurants, bars and cafes, all very well stocked

for the foodie. When we arrived in the town centre,

the place was buzzing with people relaxing in the

late afternoon sun over a glass of wine and nibbles

or early dinner. A very vibrant little town indeed.

Residents commute to Wellington, for work every day,

a bit of a trek over the Rimutakas, but there is a train

service that many choose instead of driving.

MARGRAIN VINEYARD

In the heart of Martinborough’s wine region, you will

find Margrain Vineyard. Their Vineyard and Winery

Tours take you through the vine to wine process and

the history of Martinborough wine making, tasting as

you go of course! Tour and Platter package cost is

$49.00 pp.

Margrain offer villa style accommodation, set

amongst the vines. Lovely, comfortable and

quiet. Continental breakfast is complementary; of

preserved fruit, cereal and milk. Quite good as the

accommodation was very reasonable and a bonus

of waking up to a view of the vineyard.

LOCATION: Ponatahi Road

Martinborough 5792

We made our way up the coast to the wonderful

Hawkes’ Bay where we stayed for a couple of

62 WineNZ Magazine | Summer 2019/2020


Tripping Around the Vines | Feature

nights at the Woolshed Apartments situated in the

township of Havelock North, there is so much to

experience in this wonderful region. The township is

full of colour from the fresh hanging baskets full of

blooms. Beautiful, colourful and very well presented.

It’s obvious that the business owners, the council

and locals are a ‘house proud’ lot.

Our friends, having moved from Wellington, tell us

they have seen a lot of change in the last 25 years.

BLACK BARN VINEYARD

This boutique vineyard is five minutes from the

village of Havelock North, situated on the Te Mata

hills providing stunning views for the visitor, a perfect

situation to spend an hour or two over lunch and a

wine tasting.

Black Barn offers luxury accommodation of

seventeen properties. Not cheap but absolutely

unique and recognized amongst the very best

available in New Zealand.

The Black Barn Growers Market is held every

Saturday morning in the summer months where you

will find many mouth-watering goodies.

There is an amphitheatre for entertainment, which

has been described by internationally recognized

singers as the best outdoor venue in New Zealand.

The whole amphitheatre is surrounded by 50-yearold

Muscatel grapes. Black Barn Rose 2018

Vintage, a most enjoyable drop indeed on a warm

afternoon tripping through the vines.

Their 2019 Vintage is now available on line at

www.@blackbarn.com, $23 per bottle. Enjoy!

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz

63


Feature | Tripping Around the Vines

Photos show Winery, Restaurant and Tasting room.

CRAGGY RANGE VINYEYARD

The Giants Winery complex is home to the

Cellardoor and the Terroir Restaurant. Craggy

Range is situated in a premium wine growing area

of Havelock North.

Nestled among the romantic vines are selfcontained

boutique cottages. Craggy range was

established in 1997 by Terry Peabody and Steve

Smith. The vineyard gets its name from the Range

that almost surrounds the area. We were told Dame

Kiri, amongst other celebrities, had given sold out

performances in the amphitheatre, set amongst a

man-made lake, with impressive bigger than life size

animal sculptures.

We enjoyed a wine tasting by a superb official wine

taster who served us; giving us the background of

Gimblett Gravels and information on each variety

that we tasted. Gimblett gravels is a sub-brand and

boasts a separate winegrowers association, hence

a separate label on the Craggy Range bottles we

purchased. The Gimblett Gravels brand combines

64 WineNZ Magazine | Summer 2019/2020


Tripping Around the Vines | Feature

the French concept of terroir with modern day

thinking; to define, protect and market wine.

The district is 800 hectares strictly determined

by gravelly soils, laid down by the old Ngaruroro

River, which were exposed in the 1860’s. (More

of this in our next WineNZ issue, as we visit and

discuss how the gravels grapes produce superior

award-winning wine.)

As our focus is on wine and its production

methods, we were most impressed by the pristine

vineyards and surroundings, the architecture

fitting in with the surrounding area, and

professionalism of all the staff of Graggy Range, is

indicative of very proud owners/caretakers.

We purchased a Rose Gimblett Gravels and a

Merlot Gimblet Gravels, which will not take us too

long to enjoy. Havelock North’s Craggy Range’s

rugged vastness and the unique history of its

Gimblett Gravels and delicious wines left us with

lasting memories. Lovely place to visit.

LOCATION: 253 Waimarama Road

Havelock North. New Zealand

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz

65


Feature | Adelaide Throws a Party

Adelaide

throws a party

DENNIS & ROSAMUND KNILL head across the ditch

to visit one of Australia’s most acclaimed food and

wine regions.

The foodie buzz is present throughout Adelaide. This group is enjoying the

vibe at Plant 4, Bowden.

We're in

Adelaide

for Tasting

Australia’s

annual food

and wine

celebration. Held every April

eager foodies are drawn in from

all over Australia to experience

this extraordinary 10-day festival

where restaurants, producers and

caterers converge to put on an

array of food and related events

with global appeal.

The idea started 20-years ago

as a simple food harvest put on

by the locals at Botanic Park.

Such was its success that it was

moved to Elder Park and in 2018

the festival organisers moved the

venue again to the picturesque

surrounds of Victoria Square in

the centre of the city.

66 WineNZ Magazine | Summer 2019/2020


Adelaide Throws a Party | Feature

Dinner at sunset at Kangaroo Head on Kangaroo Island.

Our itinerary makes it sound

blissfully easy, a little too easy.

Like most tourists we started our

culinary journey with a leisurely

stroll through South Australia’s

most-visited tourist attraction,

the 150-year-old Central Markets

located in the heart of Adelaide’s

eat street district.

The two-acre open courtyard

is all under one roof clamorous

with cries of 250 food sellers all

eager to share their knowledge

and bounty of delights with

an enthusiastic food loving

audience. But most striking was

the aromas and smells of fresh

fruits and vegetables, seafood,

artisan cheeses, meats and

smallgoods, breads and pastries

that guaranteed to excite the

taste buds. All that marred our

happiness was the fact that

we could not take away the

temptations set before us. For the

lucky locals this marketplace is

an integral part of city life with

seasonal fresh produce reflected

in the regions cuisine.

Wineries in the Adelaide Hills make for great day trips from the city.

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz

67


Feature | Adelaide Throws a Party

It’s nearly 7pm on a warm

autumn’s evening and time

to have some fun with some

fabulous food as well. The DJ is

entertaining the party-like crowd

who are eating and queuing for

a smorgasbord of possibilities

served from stalls by some of

the city’s best restaurants. For

an atmosphere of less frenzy

and with high expectations we

make our way to the long line

of glasshouses all of which are

decorated with imaginative flair

and a hint of decadence

Everyone is happy, we talk easily

to strangers across the table, the

wine is flowing and we eagerly

pursue the four-course menu

themed “Kitchen Fire” cooked by

a line-up of celebrity chefs using

smoke, coal, flame and grill and

wielding skillets with practised

dexterity.

The following morning we rise

early for a chartered flight to

Kangaroo Island with forty other

enthusiastic compatriots. After

landing at the recently revamped

Kingscote Airport we board a

coach to be transferred for a

long lunch at Sunset Food and

Wine, a clifftop oasis located at

the top of a hill with spectacular

views overlooking Eastern Cove in

Penneshaw.

The cuisine under the direction

of resident chef Jack Ingram

and guest chef Jacqui Challinor

of Sydney fame showed there

is after all no master chef who

can perform to the utmost with

anything less than the freshest,

highest quality ingredients. The

result was a Mediterranean feast

washed down with equally superb

wine.

After swapping stories with our

new found friends for several hours

it was time to re-board the coach

and enough time stopping off for

a nightcap at Kangaroo Island

Spirits, one of South Australia’s

most celebrated boutique spirit

producers. Jon Lark guided us

through his quirky cellar door with

its diverse range of award winning

gin, whiskey, vodka and liqueurs

which we were urged to toss back

at regular intervals.

Food to write home about being served at Hains and Co, Adelaide.

68 WineNZ Magazine | Summer 2019/2020


Adelaide Throws a Party | Feature

Locally made spirits are almost as popular as accompaniments for glorious food as wine in Adelaide.

Our Kangaroo Island interlude

allowed us the realization that the

best of times and the best of food

are often to be found at remote

locations.

Welcome to McLaren Vale. A

forty-minute leisurely drive south

of Adelaide suburbia submits to a

low swell of undulating vineyards

dotted with the odd quaint

cottage and rolling expanses of

vines.

The gorges, flats and climate

remind us of the winelands of

Southern France. Warm sunny

days and gentle sea breezes off

the Gulf of St Vincent to temper

the high temperatures of summer.

First stop overlooking Encounter

Bay is Victor Harbour. A heady

combination of pine and sea

spray this once whaling town is

a popular little seaside village

boasting sun, surf, clear turquoise

waters and stunning views.

After a picnic lunch we visit

Gemtree Winery for wine tasting

with a platter to match. Then

off to The Cube at D’Areberg

Winery for another wine tasting

and a guided visit through the

museum. Often referred to as

Willy Wonker’s Factory or the Mad

Hatters House, the Cube is more

than a tasting room but rather

a place that cements McLaren

Vale’s reputation as not just a wine

destination.

Barossa Valley with its 200

wineries and 800 growers has

been so well defined as Australia’s

premier wine-producing region

it’s tempting to think that’s all it

has to offer. That may be enough

for some, but in fact there’s

much more to this 30-kilometre

valley that never fails to surprise,

driven by its soil, climate, people,

seasons and of course the

grape vines. When one thinks

shiraz, cabernet sauvignon and

grenache all the big names are

here, Jacob’s Creek, Penfolds, St

Hallett, Seppeltfield, Wolf Blass and

Yalumba are a few that come to

mind.

Today we are touring the

Barossa with John Baldwin, a most

hospitable, sometimes hilarious

and charming guide and owner

of Barossa Daimler Tours. John

immediately understood why we

wanted as much as we could

get from this region so visits to

Seppeltfield Gin Distillery and

an unforgettable lunch at Vino

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz

69


Feature | Adelaide Throws a Party

Lokal by chef Ryan Edwards and

then onto Jacob’s Creek for some

serious wine tasting. We sampled

two exceptionally priced reds from

their new Double Barrel range. The

first a 2015 shiraz that displayed

great structure and texture with an

abundance of concentrated fruit

and 2015 cabernet sauvignon a

full bodied red that was rich and

satisfying in flavour and rounded

off with a smooth soft tannin finish.

Back in the city a must-doexperience

is Adelaide’s best

known and favourite beach. A

20-minute tram ride from the city

is Glenelg, Adelaide’s premier

seaside destination and home

to some of South Australia’s most

expensive real estate. Synonymous

with white sandy beaches, wide

ocean views and stunning

sunsets, not to mention its vibrant

restaurant and café brigade.

It’s also worth building up an

appetite for a walk along Gouger

Street, Adelaide’s undisputed eat

street and another great place to

start a culinary tour. Greek, Italian,

Asian communities have long

had gastronomic influences in this

centrally located area accessible

by foot bringing a wealth of

alfresco dining with its world class

restaurants, bars and cafes.

With so much to see and do

Adelaide deserves more than

a week. With all its culture, taste,

art and beauty we visited all the

sights, tasted some exceptional

cellar doors and sampled some

exquisite cuisine raising our

glasses along the way.

As we fly out, the city in all its

glory is revealed once again. With

so much to see and do Adelaide

deserves more than 6-days. No

doubt about it.

NEED TO KNOW

Patrons soaking up the atmosphere in one of the bars in Gilbert Place, Adelaide.

Getting there:

air New Zealand have five direct

flights a week. Log onto

www.airnewzealand.co.nz

Where to stay:

hilton adelaide

www.adelaide.hilton.com

Best eats:

Concubine (asian fusion),

press Food and wine (Modern

australian), shobosho (Japanese),

Nido (Italian), africola (south

african), Louca’s (seafood)

Places of interest:

the Bradman Collection, Botanic

Gardens, Colonel Light’s Lookout,

Carrick hill, Mount Lofty summit,

ayres house, aboriginal Cultural

Centre, art Gallery, st peters

Cathedral, railway Museum,

adelaide oval, haigh’s Chocolates,

National wine Centre

Tours:

Barossa Daimler tours

www.barossadaimlertours.com.au

Best shopping:

rundle street Mall, King william

street

Background reading:

adelaide a brief history by Kathyn

Gargett and susan Marsden, south

australia Lonely planet by Denis

o’Bryne

Other information:

south australia tourism

Commission

www.southaustralia.com

Pictures: South Australian Tourism

Commission.

70 WineNZ Magazine | Summer 2019/2020


Wines of Distinction

Celebrate the

best of the season

with Palliser’s

bubbly duo

It’s hard to choose between

The Griffin and The Rose,

so we recommend getting both!

Delectable bubbles that

make any day an occasion.

palliserwine

Available at specialist wine stores

& directly from palliser estate

www.palliser.co.nz


Feature | Sicilian Wine - History in the Making

Sicilian

Wine -

history in

the Making

By Joan gestro

Marsala, on the eastern coast

of Sicily, was on our itinerary

for a visit during a recent

trip, to a country of very

fine horticulture, climate

and soil type, perfect for

grapes, olives, vegetables, lemons and fruit of all

description.

The Alagna family winery, into its fourth

generation of ownership, is a master at fortified

wines. Antonio Alagna showed us through and

didn’t hesitate to lay out a tasting range for us

to sample and of course purchase if we wished.

The VINeYARDS

Technologies and land conservaTion

The company owns about 50 hectares of land

in the municipalities of Marsala, Mazara, Trapani

and Selemi. In these areas the vines necessary

for the production of its wines are cultivated:

Zibibbo, Nero d’avola, Grillo, Catarrato, Inzolia

and Damaschino. These are all local grapes

that can only be grown in Sicily and need

a special microclimate that is only found in

the province of Trapani. The company uses a

mixture of traditional and modern techniques

for the production of these grapes. For example,

this one started using mechanical collection

systems, but it also uses ancient systems like

the saplings. Furthermore, the entire production

is done trying to minimize the environmental

impact and preserve the natural heritage of the

area.

The CeLLAR

respecT for TradiTion and qualiTy

Currently, the company is equipped for the

production and storage of wines that are

produced in the vineyards of the area and

the aging and bottling process is also carried

72 WineNZ Magazine | Summer 2019/2020


Sicilian Wine - History in the Making | Feature

out. The company has a capacity of 50,000

hectolitres of wine distributed in various types

of containers: steel, cement, fiberglass or large

wooden barrels. Furthermore, it is possible

to see a wide range of machinery used for

the production and refinement of the final

product, including a large and sophisticated

grape pressing system that is necessary for

the production of fine quality wines. Marsala

wine is one of the main products of the Alagna

company.

LANNI’ (DOC sicilia) is a smooth blend of Nero

d’avola, Syrah and Merlot, aged in oak casks

used to store fortified wines, in order to obtain

tobacco and cherry frangrances.

Grapes are picked late in the season to create

a dark colour and smooth taste. The wine has

10gr of residual sugar and 14% in alcohol. It is

not filtered to have even more flavours.

The Lanni’ name is short, easy to remember

and pronounce. It is the contraction of names

(A-LA-NI-A) It’s a blend and a name that only

we make.

It must be a fIrst, anywhere on earth!?

Concept: Kosho fully embraces the growing

fusion gastronomic culture by linking the

ancient Sicilian winemaking tradition with

Japanese cuisine. The delicate and fruity tones

of this wine made with a blend of Sicilian

grapes, perfectly matches with the umami

flavours of the main Japanese dishes (Sushi,

Sashimi, Temaki, Hosomaki)

It Is the fIrst wIne for sushI In ItaLy

Name: it comes from KOSHU, a typical grape of

Japan. But Kosho is easier to remember.

Alcohol: 12%

Grape (white) blend of inzolia, damaschino

and catarratto, grown in our vineyards in Sicily.

Aging: 3 months in steel

Packaging: 75cl cork.

AWARDS

85% POINTS AT VITEA GUIDE AIS

ASSOCIATION 2019

88% POINTS AT 5 STAR COMPETITION

IN VINITAY 2018

Kosho (sushi wine)

IGP SICILIA / PDI SISCILIA)

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz

73


Feature | Right Royal Wines

PART ONE

Right Royal

wines

The tiny European principality of Liechtenstein has

had a wine industry for more than 200 years.

By Gillian Vine

74 WineNZ Magazine | Summer 2019/2020


Right Royal Wines | Feature

Since 1712, the Liechtenstein royal

family has been able to look down

from their castle at Herawingert

vineyard.

SQUASHED between

Austria and Switzerland,

landlocked Liechtenstein

covers a mere 160 square

km, one-sixteenth of New

Zealand’s land mass.

With a total population roughly

equal to Blenheim’s, it is one of

the world’s smallest countries but

has a surprising industry, false

teeth. Indeed, something like 20%

of the world’s fake molars are

manufactured here.

Tourism draws some 1 million people

a year, but they don’t stay long (86%

are day trippers). Most are content

to wander around the immaculate

capital, Vaduz, pay €3 (about

$NZ5.20) to get their passports

stamped, maybe visit a museum

and drift through the vineyard above

the town.

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz

75


Feature | Right Royal Wines

Vines on the slope below Gutenberg Castle, where wine had been produced since the Middle Ages.

Smarter tourists try the country’s

wines, something they are unlikely

to get at home, as Liechtenstein’s

100 growers sell locally almost all

their output – about 80 tonnes

from around 30ha in vines. A

tiny quantity of wine does go to

Switzerland so you may be lucky

to get a sip in Zurich.

On its western border with

Switzerland, Liechtenstein has a

small chunk of the Rhine Valley.

Sloping southwest, the area is

blessed with good soils; 1500

hours of sunshine a year and

the hot, dry föhn winds that help

sweeten the grapes.

Viniculture started here about

2000 years ago and when the

Romans rolled through, they

upped production, although

the industry fell over when the

Romans were driven out.

The Christians took over, with

many monasteries having their

own vineyards. By the Middle

Ages, when Charlemagne (742-

814 A.D) united much of Europe,

Liechtenstein’s Gutenberg Castle

had a significant winemaking

industry.

Charlemagne’s edict that wine

pressers should wash their feet

76 WineNZ Magazine | Summer 2019/2020


Right Royal Wines | Feature

Princely bubbly at the royal cellars, Hofkellerei des regierenden Fürsten

von Liechtenstein.

before tramping the grapes,

didn’t go down well, but the

industry survived.

In 1712, in a bit of smart political

manoeuvring, Prince Johann

Adam of Liechtenstein acquired

the county of Vaduz and, with it,

the 4ha Herawingert vineyard,

ideal for growing pinot noir and

chardonnay grapes.

Things looked good, the country’s

vineyards grew and at their peak

in the second half of the 19th

century, wine was the country’s

main export.

Then disaster struck on three fronts

– poor harvests, disease and

foreign competition – and the

wine industry all but collapsed.

Happily, the past 40 years have

seen an increase in winemaking

but today there are only

about 30ha in vines, a tenth of

Liechtenstein’s 19th century high.

There is a surprising range

produced from such a small

area – pinot noir, chardonnay,

Gewürztraminer, dry white Grüner

Veltliner, merlot and Riesling.

The prince’s Herawingert vineyard

is complemented by 42ha in

Austria, owned by the royal family

since 1436.

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz

77


Feature | Right Royal Wines

Vine motifs abound in Liechtenstein.

Above Vaduz, it’s a

short walk through

the vineyard to the

princely wine cellars,

Hofkellerei des

regierenden Fürsten

von Liechtenstein.

Wine tastings are

available, last 30 to

60 minutes and the

price of about $30 a

head includes four or

five wines. Don’t miss

the Blauburgunder

(“blue Burgundy”),

as this is the local

pinot noir, probably

the country’s bestknown

wine, which

has been grown

in Liechtenstein for

more than 300 years.

They offer a good

bubbly, too.

So let’s drink to the

health of Hans-Adam

II, current Prince of

Liechtenstein, and

his country’s tiny

but impressive wine

industry.

Even a drinking water tap is decorated with grapes.

78 WineNZ Magazine | Summer 2019/2020


TWO RIVERS

ISLE OF BEAUTY ROSÉ 2019

CHAMPION ROSÉ TROPHY

NZ Wine of the Year Awards 2019

BEST ROSÉ WINE TROPHY

Cathay Pacific Hong Kong International

Wine & Spirits Competition 2019

Championing New Zealand Rosé Around the World.

www.tworivers.co.nz


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