WineNZ Summer 2019-20

The authoritative guide to NZ's wine industry

The authoritative guide to NZ's wine industry

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<strong>WineNZ</strong><br />

<strong>Summer</strong> <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>-<strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong> $9.90<br />

Waiheke<br />

Man O’ War Bay<br />

A comfy little<br />

bunch of vines...<br />

it's not<br />

NZD $9.90<br />

First Lady oF Wine|summer Wine sipping ideas|Wine and Food events|Wine traiL updates



In fact, there are many – history tells us some incredible things…<br />

Among the twisted vines of Marisco Vineyards owner Brent Marris’ ancestry was a<br />

William de Marisco, rumoured to be one of the many illegitimate children of King Henry the First.<br />

Back in the twelfth and thirteenth century, the de Marisco families inhabited the small island<br />

of Lundy off the south-west coast of England, and were engaged in all manner of shall we say,<br />

‘colourful pursuits’.<br />

They maintained a tempestuous relationship with the monarchy of the time; at times receiving<br />

royal favour, and yet at others, great displeasure. The de Mariscos’ acts of piracy and treason<br />

ultimately defined their place in history.<br />

Good wines deserve a good story, so to celebrate this intruiging family history, Marisco Vineyards<br />

created The Kings Series. Each of these award–winning premium wines features a unique name<br />

and a story relating to their remarkable forebears…

Publisher's note<br />

<strong>WineNZ</strong><br />


Martin Gillion, Daniel Honan,<br />

Anne-Marie Nansett, Louis Pierard,<br />

John Saker, Charmaine Smith,<br />

Vic Williams.<br />


Richard Brimer<br />

DESIGN<br />

Spinc Media<br />


Colin Gestro<br />

027 256 8014<br />

colin@affinityads.com<br />

Joan Gestro<br />

joanlucy47@gmail.com<br />


Jax Hancock<br />

06 839 1705<br />

jax.affinityads@gmail.com<br />


www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />


i-subscribe.co.nz and enter<br />

<strong>WineNZ</strong> in search<br />


www.affinityads.com<br />

Publishers of: Active Seniors,<br />

Superbrands, Dive NZ, Wine NZ,<br />

Seniors and Travel Expo.<br />

Changes<br />

are afoot!<br />

<strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine is now<br />

under new ownership and<br />

as experienced publishers<br />

we are looking to make<br />

some changes to ensure the<br />

magazine not only retains<br />

the high standards it has<br />

maintained over the past 23<br />

years but breaks new ground<br />

in its coverage of the New<br />

Zealand wine scene.<br />

We have retained our<br />

experienced team of wine<br />

commentators, but we will<br />

also be employing the<br />

services of new voices to<br />

ensure that new ground<br />

is covered, as well as<br />

reintroducing contributors<br />

from earlier times.<br />

The magazine will retain its<br />

main focus on wine and the<br />

enjoyment of wine both here<br />

and overseas.<br />

Colin Gestro<br />

Editor & Publisher<br />

When i bought<br />

Brookfields Vineyards,<br />

the most planted white<br />

variety in Hawke’s Bay<br />

was Müller-Thurgau.<br />

it wasn't my preferred<br />

choice; hence, i<br />

planted pinot gris,<br />

which was sourced<br />

from the Mission<br />

Vineyards. only<br />

after the Millennium<br />

did pinot gris sales<br />

explode nationally —<br />

and the good news is<br />

they are still growing.<br />

We at Brookfields wish<br />

all our customers a<br />

very happy holiday<br />

season and a healthy<br />

and prosperous <strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong>.<br />

cheers,<br />

Peter robertson<br />

PO Box 13257 Tauranga 3141<br />


Man O’ War Grapes with a view<br />

from Waiheke Island<br />

Photo: Richard Brimer<br />

Brookfield<br />

Vineyards<br />

Phone 06 834 4615<br />

www.brookfieldsvineyard.co.nz<br />

Trade enquiries<br />

Hancocks<br />

Phone 0800 699 463<br />

4 <strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Summer</strong> <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>/<strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong>

Title Over Here | Feature<br />

<strong>20</strong>16 ‘ELSPETH’ REDS WIN GOLD<br />

SIX NATIONS WINE CHALLENGE <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong><br />


www.millsreef.co.nz<br />

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />


Contents<br />

<strong>WineNZ</strong><br />

<strong>Summer</strong> <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>/<strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong><br />

8<br />


Waiheke, where Martin Gillion<br />

uncovers the true giant of<br />

wine makers.<br />

18 WinE and TimE<br />

News from New Zealand and<br />

around the world.<br />

27 nEW WinE RElEaSES<br />

Sarah Jessica Parker with<br />

Invivo launches her own<br />

label of wine. This follows the<br />

successful launch of the<br />

Graham Norton series of<br />

wines.<br />

32 nEW ZEaland’S FiRST<br />

ladY OF WinE<br />

Jane Hunter; high profile<br />

and awards with wine, a rare<br />

interview.<br />

42 SUmmER WinE CHOiCES<br />

Our team put forward their<br />

blind tasting notes for a<br />

range of summer wines. Do 32<br />

try one or two.<br />

6 <strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Summer</strong> <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>/<strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong>

Contents<br />

57<br />


Vic Williams continues<br />

matching summer food with<br />

wine.<br />

62 WINE TRAILS<br />

Martinborough options, plus<br />

a few in the Hawke’s Bay<br />

region.<br />


62<br />

74<br />



A surprise to find such wine<br />

knowledge in Tauranga.<br />

Relatively new Clarence<br />

Restaurant and Bistro shows<br />

how it is done.<br />


A new piece in <strong>WineNZ</strong>. Plan<br />

to visit some of these events<br />

in <strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong>.<br />


We visit Sicily and the Marsala<br />

region. Alagna is one of the<br />

largest fortified wineries, with<br />

a surprise new release for<br />

drinking with Sushi.<br />



66<br />



Coming soon.<br />


What I am enjoying drinking.<br />

Personalities give us their<br />

personal wine choices and<br />

tell us why. Wine makers’<br />

profiles. The backroom<br />

efforts of development and<br />

processing grapes to wine.<br />

Meet some of them right<br />

here.<br />

72<br />

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />


Feature | Waiiheke<br />

Waiheke<br />

The Vineyard Gourmet Haven<br />

&<br />

By Martin Gillion<br />

8 <strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Summer</strong> <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>/<strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong>

Waiiheke | Feature<br />

There can be few areas in New Zealand that have gone<br />

through as much of a transformation as Auckland’s<br />

Hauraki Gulf showpiece, Waiheke Island, just 30<br />

minutes by fast ferry from the city centre.<br />

50 years ago, travel to the island was courtesy of the<br />

‘Baroona’, the converted cargo ship originally destined<br />

for work on the Kaipara Harbour. Two hours was the minimum<br />

journey time to get to the beaches of Oneroa and Surfdale<br />

in pursuit of the sunburn and blisters that in those days were<br />

eagerly displayed as badges of honour.<br />

The rugged hills of the eastern parts of the island. farmed for<br />

cattle, were relatively untouched and the secluded bays of the<br />

Ruthe Passage or the Tamaki Strait the provenance of sailors.<br />

The island was known as a place where modest baches<br />

surrounded the stunning beaches and where there were<br />

scattered communities of colourful people with outlooks at<br />

considerable variance to those of a largely conservative New<br />

Zealand. Cannabis was not unknown and body piercing was in<br />

its infancy.<br />

But today, the Island is peppered with luxurious holiday homes<br />

(certainly not baches anymore) and has become an essential<br />

stop for visiting international glitteratti, be they pop stars, globetrotting<br />

politicians, film makers or sporting heroes.<br />

And it is not only the fast ferries that have made the difference.<br />

For apart from the beaches and the stunning Gulf scenery<br />

the onset of wine production in the 1980s has added a new<br />

dimension to the island experience.<br />

The world acclaim in the early 1990s accorded the pioneering<br />

wines of Stephen White at Stonyridge and Kim and Jeanette<br />

Goldwater at Putiki Bay signalled the ability of Waiheke to<br />

produce truly significant wines that could stand alongside the<br />

best of Bordeaux. International wine critics were both surprised<br />

and impressed.<br />

The transformation of Waiheke had begun.<br />

Michael Cooper’s 1994 ‘Wines and Vineyards of New Zealand<br />

quotes from Stephen White at around this time….<br />

“In a decade, there’ll be 50 vineyards here. It’ll be Auckland’s<br />

most heavily planted wine district. There’ll be a lot of restaurants,<br />

and Waiheke will emerge as a sort of vineyard/gourmet holiday<br />

area.”<br />

And how true that has turned out to be!<br />

For while the number of producers has not yet quite reached<br />

the 50 mark the region now promotes itself as ‘The Island of<br />

Wine’ and wineries and vineyards have spread to all parts of the<br />

island, including those previously discarded eastern hillsides.<br />

The range of wine experiences ranges from the lavish<br />

upmarket tasting rooms and restaurants looking out to the<br />

Auckland skyline in the distance, to the ‘hands on’ experiences<br />

provided by individual vintners.<br />

In almost every case not only are the wines available for<br />

tasting but the venue provides added attractions be they wine<br />

matched food, stunning seascapes, accommodation or event<br />

venues for weddings and celebrations.<br />

So here are three prominent Waiheke wineries whose journeys<br />

to success have been different, whose locations are varied and<br />

whose approaches to winemaking and visitor engagement are<br />

in contrast.<br />

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />


Feature | Waiiheke<br />

MAN O’ WAR<br />




Man O’ War almost defies the<br />

image of Waiheke as the home<br />

of small, boutique wineries<br />

producing limited amounts of<br />

premium wine aimed mainly<br />

at the local market and the<br />

increasing visitor spend.<br />

For not only is Man O’ War<br />

the largest producer on the<br />

island but as winemaker<br />

Duncan McTavish tells me, at<br />

600 tonnes they eclipse the<br />

output of all other Waiheke<br />

producers combined. “In fact we<br />

think our harvest accounts for<br />

about a third of Auckland’s total<br />

production.”<br />

So a comfy little bunch of vines<br />

on land overlooking a sandy<br />

beach it is not!<br />

Man O’ War takes its name<br />

from the secluded bay that<br />

was the holiday homestead of<br />

the business magnate John<br />

Spencer’s family who have had<br />

farming interests on Waiheke<br />

since the 80s. Their 1800ha estate<br />

encompasses much of the hilly<br />

coastline on the south eastern<br />

part of the island.<br />

It’s an estate that has been<br />

meticulously managed and<br />

redeveloped over the years but<br />

one which also includes the<br />

historic wartime gunnery site at<br />

Stony Batter.<br />

A site nearby is marked for a<br />

new winery in the coming years.<br />

As a testament to the family’s<br />

guardianship of the land, on<br />

your way through the hills to the<br />

company vineyards specimen<br />

trees, carefully fenced and<br />

protected from stock, stand<br />

alongside patches of virgin bush.<br />

It is evident that the proprietors<br />

have both the patience and the<br />

ability to fund the investments<br />

required.<br />

Both are required for the<br />

establishment of vineyards!<br />

It’s an old adage that vineyards<br />

may well be profitable for the<br />

‘family of a family of a family’ but<br />

rarely for the original incumbents!<br />

But the Man O’ War plans were<br />

a little different to most. While,<br />

encouraged by the successes<br />

of Stonyridge and Goldwater the<br />

family decided to plant in small,<br />

discreet blocks of sloping hillsides<br />

that each offered different<br />

possibilities in terms of variety and<br />

style.<br />

Their first vines were planted in<br />

1993 for a small vintage in 1996.<br />

Most of the subsequent planting<br />

took place in the years from <strong>20</strong>04<br />

– <strong>20</strong>06 and now the estate claims<br />

10 <strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Summer</strong> <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>/<strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong>

Waiiheke | Feature<br />

64ha of vines sequestered in<br />

more than 75 individual sites.<br />

Such an arrangement calls for<br />

detailed management and that<br />

is immediately obvious when you<br />

first breast the hill on the rough<br />

road to the winery.<br />

The stunning views that are<br />

virtually mandatory for Waiheke,<br />

are there in abundance. At this<br />

point you are several hundred<br />

meters above the sea at Cactus<br />

Bay or Owhiti Bay and the rocky<br />

coves below.<br />

But beside you are two<br />

immaculate vineyards with<br />

compact rows marching<br />

together over the steep slopes.<br />

So vineyard so normal.<br />

But what is not so vineyardnormal<br />

is that the vines march in<br />

totally different directions!<br />

In one, vines in serried rows,<br />

stride in a somewhat north/south<br />

formation down the slope towards<br />

the beach. The other has vines<br />

marshalled in what looks like an<br />

east/west attribution up the hill on<br />

the other side.<br />

If these vineyard ‘platoons’<br />

needed a saluting platform it<br />

would be in the middle of the road.<br />

I’m assuming this is no accident<br />

nor whim but that each site will<br />

have been planted in different<br />

varieties.<br />

When I get to the Man O’ War<br />

beachside cellar door Duncan tells<br />

me that it is indeed the different<br />

orientation of sites that is a part of<br />

their management strategy.<br />

“We pride ourselves on a<br />

meticulous matching of each<br />

variety to one of the 76 specific<br />

sites. The hillside soils vary and<br />

aspects to the sun and even<br />

altitudes are different. As a result<br />

we not only plant them differently<br />

but manage them with the same<br />

degree of care. We’ve even had to<br />

work our way between the tides on<br />

sites we’ve developed on nearby<br />

Ponui island.”<br />

“It is difficult and costly to<br />

manage them all individually. With<br />

each site being hand harvested<br />

and then vinified separately<br />

before blending, the handling and<br />

winemaking is far more intensive<br />

than most.”<br />

“Our rural setting also makes life<br />

difficult. It is hard to attract workers<br />

especially those skilled in vineyard<br />

work so we’ve set up our own hostel<br />

to try and help with this particularly<br />

during harvest.”<br />

A visit to the cellar door at Man<br />

O’ War is certainly worth the drive.<br />

Unlike other Waiheke wineries<br />

there is no local bus to drop you<br />

off at the gate but there are those<br />

stunning views at every turn, and at<br />

the end of the road the cellar door<br />

lies right on the beach.<br />

There’s a restaurant with casual<br />

dining inside and out and the Man<br />

O’ War wines to buy and try. In<br />

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />


Feature | Waiiheke<br />

summer it swarms with holiday<br />

makers but most of the people<br />

you will see relaxing on the<br />

beach with a bottle of wine to<br />

accompany their picnic have not<br />

made the tortuous route by car.<br />

The boats from which they<br />

come are anchored in the bay!<br />

In contrast to the large<br />

number of individual vineyards<br />

the number of Man O’ War<br />

wines is relatively limited as the<br />

different sites are blended. The<br />

‘Ironclad’ Bordeaux blend has<br />

more than 29 components and<br />

Syrah is blended at two levels.<br />

Chardonnay also features at<br />

two levels. Interestingly the<br />

Sauvignon Blanc is blended with<br />

25% of Semillon, unusual for New<br />

Zealand’s take on this variety.<br />

MAN O’ WAR<br />


Gravestone Sauvignon<br />

Blanc / Semillon <strong>20</strong>17<br />

- $29<br />

This wine represents an unusual<br />

direction for this variety with the<br />

inclusion of almost 25% Semillon,<br />

a common occurrence in France<br />

but not in NZ. Picked at very low<br />

levels, just 2 tonnes per ha it’s<br />

barrel fermented and aged for<br />

2 years in oak. “It’s the biggest<br />

surprise for our customer” Duncan<br />

reports, “Herbaceous and crisp.”<br />

The tasting notes refer to a ‘gin<br />

and tonic like finish!’<br />

Dreadnought Syrah<br />

<strong>20</strong>16 - $64<br />

Again this wine is from a large<br />

number of steep imposing sites,<br />

all with equally imposing names,<br />

such as ‘Asylum’,‘Big North’,<br />

‘Madmans’‘and North Face’;<br />

sites which have been dry farmed<br />

to increase resistance to drought.<br />

The individual batches have<br />

been separately vinified with<br />

wild yeasts and held on oak for<br />

18months before blending.<br />

“We like to think of it as richly<br />

textured but restrained and with a<br />

streak of acidity.”<br />

Man O’ War wines are available<br />

online www.manowar.co.nz<br />


– HERITAGE<br />

WINE<br />

I always like circular stories;<br />

where the end relates directly<br />

to the beginning. The sort of<br />

thing where super sportsmen or<br />

women, when the medals dry<br />

up, end up coaching the high<br />

school team that jump-started<br />

their career.<br />

Goldie Estate on Waiheke is a<br />

good example of the process,<br />

except in this case it is the land<br />

that ends up returning to its roots.<br />

Too often in New Zealand we<br />

seem to sell our special pieces<br />

of land, especially if they have<br />

stunning views, to American<br />

steel barons or narcissistic pop<br />

stars. Or we just cover them with<br />

housing developments and car<br />

parks.<br />

Such might have been the fate<br />

12 <strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Summer</strong> <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>/<strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong>

Waiiheke | Feature<br />

of Kim and Jeanette Goldwater’s<br />

Putiki Bay vineyard of the 80s:<br />

the first planted on Waiheke and<br />

one of the first in the country to<br />

convince the wine world that we<br />

could produce truly fine wine.<br />

Now the vineyard is not only<br />

still providing fruit for world<br />

class wines marketed under the<br />

‘Goldie Estate’ brand, but has<br />

also been protected from future<br />

development or resale.<br />

But it was not some<br />

bureaucratic monolith that saved<br />

the land. It was Kim and Jeanette<br />

themselves who ensured the<br />

survival of their historic vineyard.<br />

In <strong>20</strong>09, following the sale<br />

of their extended interests in<br />

Marlborough and Hawke’s Bay to<br />

a US investor, Kim and Jeanette<br />

generously gifted the Waiheke<br />

property, valued at $4million,<br />

to the Auckland University as a<br />

lynchpin to their Wine Science<br />

course.<br />

“We wanted to preserve<br />

the vineyard’s history and do<br />

something that would work for<br />

the local community” said Kim at<br />

the time.<br />

It was an act of extreme<br />

generosity!<br />

Today the students of the<br />

Auckland University Wine<br />

Science Course are able to<br />

study all aspects of the industry<br />

from this ‘outlier’ of the main<br />

University campus. They have<br />

access to the vineyards for<br />

viticultural experience and<br />

Goldie Estate, a completely<br />

independent, commercial winery,<br />

provides hands on winemaking<br />

experience.<br />

Few oenological students,<br />

worldwide, would have such a<br />

‘hands on’ opportunity.<br />

Winemaker Heinrich Storm<br />

explains that while the students<br />

can make their own wines<br />

from some of the estate fruit,<br />

the Goldie wines he makes are<br />

completely independently made.<br />

He is responsible for the winery<br />

continuing to make quintessential<br />

Waiheke wines in the manner<br />

that the Goldwaters pioneered all<br />

those years ago.<br />

Heinrich explains that the<br />

13ha site is really made up of two<br />

vineyards. The home block that<br />

surrounds the winery and looks<br />

down to Putiki Bay caters for the<br />

reds, mainly Cabernet Sauvignon,<br />

Merlot, Cabernet Franc and<br />

Syrah.<br />

The second vineyard, across the<br />

road from the entrance, is mainly<br />

for white wines and is the original<br />

source of fruit for the Zell vineyard<br />

that had a cult following for<br />

Chardonnay in the earlier days.<br />

The estate wines of Merlot/<br />

Cabernet, Chardonnay and Syrah<br />

are matched, in good years, with<br />

reserve wines of Cabernet/Merlot<br />

/ Franc, Chardonnay, Merlot,<br />

Syrah and Viognier.<br />

Overall Heinrich has seen a<br />

change in emphasis at Goldie.<br />

“Our emphasis is now more<br />

towards Chardonnay and Syrah.<br />

We’ve even taken out 30% of the<br />

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />


Feature | Waiiheke<br />

Bordeaux blend varieties to plant<br />

more Syrah.”<br />

“We also make a Sauvignon<br />

Blanc and rosé,” he says. “But<br />

they’re not under the Goldie<br />

label. They are really on site for<br />

weddings and events which<br />

are an increasing part of the<br />

overall business. The rosé is made<br />

from Estate frown fruit while<br />

Sauvignon Blanc is sourced from<br />

Marlborough”<br />

“Visitor experiences and<br />

event hosting has become an<br />

increasing part of many Waiheke<br />

winery activities,” Heinrich reckons.<br />

“As the seasons last a little bit<br />

longer cellar doors and other<br />

visitor experiences become more<br />

sustainable.”<br />

The Goldie cellar door is<br />

located in the original winery<br />

building and offers a tasting<br />

of all their estate wines with<br />

knowledgeable and passionate<br />

staff to guide you through the<br />

selection. There’s the opportunity<br />

to take some nibbles with a glass<br />

of one of the wines and perhaps<br />

stroll to the top of the vineyard to<br />

take in the view of Putiki Bay that<br />

entranced Kim and Jeanette all<br />

those years ago.<br />

Unlike many of the island’s<br />

wineries, visits to Goldie are easy;<br />

the bus stops just outside the<br />

front gate!<br />


pROFILES:<br />

Goldie Reserve Cabernet<br />

Merlot/Cabernet Franc<br />

<strong>20</strong>14 - $60<br />

This wine is entirely sourced from<br />

the home block; that from which<br />

the Goldwaters made their ground<br />

breaking wines from 1982 onwards.<br />

From <strong>20</strong>02 the pinnacle wines from<br />

the estate have been branded<br />

under the Goldie name and this<br />

wine is one of their finest examples.<br />

The vintage was exceptional with<br />

warm dry conditions producing<br />

fruit at optimal ripeness. “It’s<br />

produced a wine that is fragrant<br />

with great depth and restrained<br />

power,” says Heinrich, “It’s on very<br />

limited release.”<br />

Goldie Estate Syrah<br />

<strong>20</strong>16 - $45<br />

This wine came from a<br />

difficult vintage. “We had to<br />

work really hard to get the<br />

best out of it,” comments<br />

Heinrich. “With careful<br />

picking dates and constant<br />

monitoring there was little<br />

time for anything else. But we<br />

had learned from the hiccups<br />

of previous cyclones that had<br />

come through.”<br />

Heinrich remarks that this<br />

wine, like the other red wines<br />

for this vintage, is elegant<br />

and fruit forward with textured<br />

tannins.<br />

Goldie Estate wines are<br />

available at the cellar door or<br />

from www.goldieestate.co.nz<br />

14 <strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Summer</strong> <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>/<strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong>

Waiiheke | Feature<br />


David Evans and his Swiss wife<br />

Veronica Evans-Gander shared<br />

winemaking experiences in both<br />

Western Australia and Switzerland<br />

but in1993 made their way to<br />

David’s New Zealand homeland<br />

with a view to planting their own<br />

vineyard and making their own<br />

wines. “We dreamed of creating<br />

fantastic wines in a beautiful<br />

place near the sea,” says David.<br />

“We were quite young!”<br />

With this in mind the recognition<br />

that the early Waiheke wines had<br />

received confirmed the island as<br />

their preferred destination. But it<br />

was not easily achieved. Already<br />

the island was attracting serious<br />

viticultural interest.<br />

But in1994 David and Veronika<br />

found a site in the south-east of<br />

Waiheke and planted their first<br />

vines there under their original<br />

branding of Camana Farm.<br />

In contrast to the hilly north<br />

eastern part of the island where<br />

Man O’ War has since developed<br />

vineyards in an entirely different<br />

style, it is a relatively flat area<br />

of land in the Te Matuku Valley<br />

and looks out over the bay to<br />

the waters of the Tamaki Strait.<br />

The Passage Rock branding that<br />

replaced the original labelling<br />

takes its name from the pivotal<br />

navigational mark that signals<br />

the separation of the strait from<br />

the nearby Waiheke Channel.<br />

While the rock in question<br />

is conspicuously avoided by<br />

Auckland boaties, the wines that<br />

have taken its name have been<br />

eagerly sought after following<br />

the company’s ability to match<br />

the reputation for excellence<br />

pioneered in the 80s by<br />

Goldwater and Stonyridge.<br />

Now known as the Island’s ‘Most<br />

Awarded Winery’, Passage Rock<br />

counts 18 gold medals and 6<br />

trophies to their name.<br />

David comments on those<br />

early years: “We had identified<br />

the 3ha site as having potential,”<br />

he says when we meet in early<br />

Spring. “And the fact that the<br />

land was flatter, in one piece<br />

and easier to plant and work<br />

was a big advantage. Mind you,<br />

the other advantage was that<br />

it was quite a bit less expensive!<br />

Even in those early days Waiheke<br />

was beginning to intensify at the<br />

‘holiday’ end.”<br />

Indeed the ‘second wave’<br />

of pioneering winemakers who<br />

settled in Waiheke during the<br />

1990s all found vineyard sites,<br />

even those without a view, hard to<br />

come by. But most still planted in<br />

the more accessible western end.<br />

David and Veronica were the<br />

only ‘new entrants’ to choose the<br />

less favoured and less populated<br />

part in the east. To this extent they<br />

were pioneers of a different kind.<br />

As might be expected, previous<br />

winemaking on the island<br />

led them to plant Cabernet<br />

Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc<br />

and Merlot. But also included<br />

in the mix were Malbec, Syrah,<br />

Chardonnay and Viognier.<br />

And it was one of these<br />

‘additional’ varieties that has<br />

singled David out as the pioneer<br />

of Syrah on the island. His<br />

Passage Rock Reserve Syrah <strong>20</strong>03<br />

took out the trophy for the Best<br />

New Zealand Syrah at the Air New<br />

Zealand Wine Awards <strong>20</strong>04 and<br />

the wine has had an unbroken<br />

record of gold medals ever since.<br />

Today much of the winemaking<br />

on the island has followed the<br />

lead of Passage Rock. For while<br />

Syrah was not unknown in other<br />

Waiheke vineyards at the time,<br />

David’s subsequent success was<br />

an inspiration to many.<br />

An island once committed<br />

to the Bordeaux varieties now<br />

has as much Syrah planted as<br />

Cabernet. In many cases wineries<br />

have pulled out the old plantings<br />

to establish new ones with the<br />

grape from the south of France.<br />

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />


Feature | Waiiheke<br />

David grins with pleasure when<br />

I tell him that another winemaker<br />

on the island referred to him as<br />

Waiheke’s ‘Mr Syrah.’<br />

Perhaps one of the secrets<br />

of the success of the Passage<br />

Rock wines lies not only with<br />

their management of the home<br />

vineyard, now expanded to 7ha,<br />

but also to the grapes he sources<br />

from two of the very earliest<br />

Waiheke vineyards, both planted<br />

on the promontory that reaches<br />

to the north from Oneroa.<br />

Both Fenton Estate and<br />

Peninsula Estate (now Fossil Bay)<br />

were founded in the early 90s<br />

and while their proprietors are no<br />

longer in the wine business, their<br />

vineyards supply David with the<br />

fruit from these older vines.<br />

David attests to the success<br />

of Syrah in Waiheke conditions<br />

but he is still a proponent of the<br />

Cabernet blends and the Reserve<br />

Cabernet Merlot from <strong>20</strong>15 is still<br />

on the winery’s tasting schedule.<br />

“They’re a sort of firm<br />

handshake by comparison to<br />

Syrah whose welcoming grip is<br />

definitely not limp, but certainly<br />

not so assertive! The Cabernets<br />

can be show stoppers in the very<br />

best of vintages; our <strong>20</strong>10 vintage<br />

was outstanding for it.”<br />

Encouraged to try contrasting<br />

vintages I found the differences<br />

were immediate, with the <strong>20</strong>15<br />

having quite firm structure but the<br />

<strong>20</strong>17 being more approachable.<br />

David commented that Waiheke<br />

was not always a good place to<br />

grow grapes. “For while Syrah is<br />

generally more straight forward<br />

to manage, the Cabernet<br />

wines are harder to perfect. But<br />

sometimes, as with life itself, little<br />

imperfections make things even<br />

more interesting and appealing.<br />

It’s certainly like that with our<br />

Cabernet blends. And I like that.”<br />

Passage Rock has a definite<br />

‘hands on’ feel to it and when<br />

I meet David to discuss their<br />

winery journey we taste the wines<br />

amongst the chaos of their bistro<br />

renovation which looks out over<br />

the vineyard and offers both<br />

casual food such as Pizzas and<br />

platters as well as more serious<br />

options.<br />

The winery offers their full<br />

range for tasting and includes<br />

Chardonnay, Viognier, Pinot Gris,<br />

Sauvignon Blanc and rosé as<br />

well as those Reserve Cabernet<br />

Merlots and Syrahs.<br />

Passage Rock may be a little<br />

remote but both the visit and the<br />

wines are well worth the effort.<br />

pASSAGE<br />


pROFILES:<br />

Passage Rock<br />

Cabernet Sauvignon/<br />

Syrah/Merlot <strong>20</strong>15<br />

-$65<br />

This wine is a combination of<br />

fruit from both Passage Rock’s<br />

own vineyards and that of<br />

the Fenton Estate ‘Twin Bays’<br />

vineyard planted in 1998 on<br />

the headland north of Oneroa.<br />

The home vineyard vines<br />

were re-located shortly after<br />

the vineyard was established to<br />

enable plantings of a different<br />

clone and to get more heat<br />

exposure. It was blended<br />

before vinification.<br />

“It’s a wine for the focussed<br />

drinker,” David pronounces<br />

Passage Rock Reserve<br />

Syrah <strong>20</strong>14 - $65<br />

The reserve Syrahs are only<br />

made in the very best years<br />

and David composed this<br />

wine from a blend of the best<br />

ten barrels with a more or<br />

less equal proportions drawn<br />

from both the home vineyard<br />

fruit and that sourced from<br />

the Fenton and Fossil Bay<br />

sites. It won a trophy in the<br />

International Wine Challenge<br />

in London in <strong>20</strong>16. “Look for<br />

nuts, spices and dark berry<br />

intensity,” says David.<br />

Climatic conditions have<br />

prevented production of the<br />

reserves since this vintage<br />

although one is definitely on<br />

the cards for the <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong> harvest.<br />

Wines can be bought at the<br />

cellar door or online at<br />

www.passagerock.co.nz.<br />

▲ Owhanake has a unique pairing of fresh<br />

sustainably Waiheke grown flowers and wine. Now<br />

open every Saturday 9am to 1pm for their flower<br />

market and free wine tasting.<br />

▲ Mosaic Artwork and Gardens. Visit Casita Miro to<br />

see their Gaudi inspired Mosaic artwork done by<br />

the owner himself while feasting and enjoying their<br />

fabulous garden views.<br />

16 <strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Summer</strong> <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>/<strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong>

Waiiheke | Feature<br />

▲ Batch also host the Long Lunch for the Jazz Festival on Easter Monday. Dancing on<br />

the lawn while enjoying 3 of the top jazz acts in Australasia. Ticket prices also include a<br />

sumptuous 3 course buffet lunch at the fabulous Batch Winery – truly one of Waiheke’s<br />

most enchanting vineyards. This year it will be on Monday 13th April <strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong>.<br />

▲ Marvel at Cable Bay Vineyard’s extensive art<br />

collection from renowned New Zealand artist. See<br />

and experience the history of the land shown<br />

through Anton Forde’s sculpture Te puna o Hoete.<br />

Cable Bay Vineyards pays homage and honours<br />

all those who cared for the land in the past,<br />

present and future through this historical and<br />

cultural collection of carved sculptures. Dine on<br />

food from their very own organic garden in one<br />

of their two spectacular restaurants while sipping<br />

on their award winning wines and taking in<br />

spectacular views.<br />

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />


Wine & Time<br />

Wine & Time<br />

The latest from New Zealand wine world<br />


<strong>20</strong>21 February 23 rd – 25 th February.<br />

Christchurch hosts pinot<br />

noir the first time in its<br />

<strong>20</strong>-year history.<br />

World famous Pinot Noir<br />

celebrations to hit the South<br />

Island. A 115-strong collective<br />

of New Zealand Pinot Noir<br />

producers are bringing their<br />

international celebration to<br />

Christchurch for the first time in<br />

<strong>20</strong>21, shining the global spotlight<br />

on one of New Zealand’s most<br />

exciting wines. A three-day<br />

celebration is held every four<br />

years and is widely considered<br />

to be one of the best Pinot Noir<br />

events on the planet. The last<br />

event, in <strong>20</strong>17, was a sell-out<br />

event on Wellington’s waterfront,<br />

hosting international wine<br />

luminaries like Jancis Robinson,<br />

Andrea Frost and Elaine Chukan<br />

What is it all about – Pinot Noir.<br />

Brown, with Andrea Frost<br />

describing New Zealand as<br />

“one of the most dynamic and<br />

exciting Pinot Noir regions on<br />

earth.<br />

Western<br />

Australian<br />

wine<br />

master<br />

retires and<br />

puts awardwinning<br />

vineyard on<br />

the market.<br />

While Ian Ranson’s<br />

Riesling is the reigning<br />

Australian wine of the<br />

year, the winemaker<br />

is bowing out of the<br />

industry, citing age and<br />

the desire to hand over<br />

to anew generation<br />

as reasons behind the<br />

decision.<br />

Source: ABC<br />

Marlborough announces location of<br />

new Research Winery<br />

"We are delighted to be able<br />

to announce our location<br />

at the Marlborough<br />

Research Centre on the<br />

NMIT campus alongside Plant<br />

and Food research,<br />

New Zealand Winegrowers<br />

and Wine Marlborough. The<br />

Marlborough Research centre<br />

has been<br />

a key supporter of our<br />

establishment from day<br />

one and I’m pleased the vision-to<br />

be co-located with key research<br />

and industry organizations<br />

will become reality.” Said MJ<br />

Loza, CEO of Bragato Research<br />

Institute.<br />

BRI (formerly New Zealand’s<br />

Winegrowers Research Centre)<br />

has been working alongside<br />

NMIT and the Marlborough<br />

Research Centre to secure the<br />

site and the location will enable<br />

further collaboration between<br />

the different organizations. “The<br />

trial to assess the effectiveness<br />

of our research winery<br />

fermenters that took place over<br />

vintage is a good example<br />

of the collaboration already<br />

happening.” Says Mr. Loza. “The<br />

trial of BRI tanks was carried out<br />

by Plant and Food Research,<br />

based in the NMIT teaching<br />

winery, with NMIT students<br />

working on a trial. It was a real<br />

team effort and our location here<br />

supports and encourages that”.<br />

18 <strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Summer</strong> <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>/<strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong>

Wine & Time<br />



WINE<br />


VALLEY<br />


A stay at Central Otago’s newest luxury lodge wouldn’t be complete<br />

without an outstanding wine experience – exactly DOWN what’s on TO the menu OPENING<br />

at Queenstown’s Gibbston Valley Lodge & Spa.<br />

Gibbston ad?<br />

<strong>20</strong> <strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Summer</strong> <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>/<strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong><br />

Relaxed<br />

luxury. Unique<br />

experiences.<br />

Five-star concierge<br />

service. A stunning<br />

Central Otago<br />

location, nestled<br />

among the region’s<br />

oldest vines.<br />

packages and experiences<br />

will allow guests to immerse<br />

themselves in the rural<br />

playground that is Gibbston<br />

– creating memories that are<br />

perfectly tailored to them.<br />

“What we think will be<br />

particularly appealing to our<br />

guests will be the Essential<br />

Wine Experience offering. This<br />

exclusive package will be the<br />

Queenstown, New Zealand pinnacle in wine indulgence,<br />

– Years of meticulous<br />

including a premium winery,<br />

Wplanning are paying inemaker off Christopher vineyard A and winemaker cave tour, will then a lead a tasting<br />

as Central Otago’s Keys says most the private wine through tasting Gibbston with Valley’s the finest premium<br />

exciting luxury Gibbston offering, Valley Lodge winemaker and Single our Vineyard Lodge releases.<br />

Gibbston Valley & Lodge Spa’s Essential & Spa, Cellar, and lunch crafted by<br />

begins the final Wine countdown Experience is Head Chef, “We’ve Anthony got an Gradiska. extensive cellar with a wide<br />

a perfect towards opportunity opening for its guests doors; to get up range of wines. It’s going to be interesting<br />

“We hope that our guests<br />

close marked to what the by the winery launch team does.<br />

and it’s going to be good. We’ll allow for<br />

of will leave with a new found<br />

all preferences, probably only kicking you<br />

a new website and online appreciation for<br />

“At heart, it shows the beautiful reality of out if you want a Merlot.”<br />

booking portal. Bookings<br />

creation. Winemaking is an annual cycle Central Otago wine and<br />

are now available via<br />

of activity. Our idea is to satisfy those who food,” adds The Greg. experience “It is ends now with a convivial<br />

gibbstonvalleylodgeandspa.<br />

have a curiosity about what it’s all about.” widely regarded lunch. Executive as being Chef Anthony Gradiska<br />

com with the first guests being amongst delivers the best enticing in the seasonal produce from the<br />

Exclusive welcomed to Lodge to guests, the property the experience in world, and Winery’s we believe organic that gardens, is expertly paired<br />

takes mid-December.<br />

individuals through the working because with we wines. treat our natural<br />

core of Located Gibbston at Valley, the heart including of the surroundings with the utmost<br />

winemaking Central facilities Otago’s and founding iconic Wine<br />

“You’ll get a very clear and close<br />

patience and respect. We<br />

Cave.<br />

impression of the seasons and styles of<br />

winery, only <strong>20</strong> minutes from look forward to sharing our<br />

Central Otago. We want to host people<br />

Queenstown Airport, Gibbston knowledge and love for the<br />

“There’s nothing else like it. In the cave the the way we’re accustomed; deeply<br />

Valley Lodge & Spa will offer region and giving our guests<br />

atmosphere is peaceful and contemplative: informative, but super friendly and<br />

the ultimate in relaxed luxury, fantastic memories that will<br />

just you and hundreds of barrels of Pinot relaxed.”<br />

Noir<br />

fine<br />

lining<br />

wine,<br />

the walls.<br />

culinary<br />

Then<br />

excellence<br />

we’ll take<br />

last them a lifetime.”<br />

you<br />

and<br />

into the<br />

5-star<br />

Winery<br />

personal<br />

and even<br />

service.<br />

through the Bookings For are those now keen open to take on their wine<br />

Chef’s 24 Gardens beautifully to see appointed where some of the gibbstonvalleylodgeandspa.<br />

experience new heights, a guided<br />

ingredients private for villas your will lunch look will out be onto sourced. com . Those helicopter interested trip is can also available, stopping at<br />

This working is all about organic showcasing vineyards the quality of also keep spectacular up to date sites with and all the Winery’s major<br />

our people and the and schist primary mountains ingredients.” Lodge and vineyards. Spa news by<br />

of Gibbston. However, this is following Gibbston Valley<br />

Guests far will more then than enjoy just an a entertaining place short Gibbston Valley’s new venture features<br />

Wines on Facebook and<br />

film<br />

to<br />

on<br />

stay.<br />

the winegrowing<br />

One-of-a-kind<br />

process<br />

luxury<br />

in the<br />

24 luxury villas set amongst its Le Maitre<br />

Instagram .<br />

Lodge’s private theatre.<br />

“It’s visually spectacular. Of course being<br />

filmed in Central Otago it’s impossible<br />

for it not to be – but the film also captures<br />

all the colour and life of harvest and<br />

winegrowing.”<br />

home block vineyard, a striking central<br />

lodge building and separate spa. Exclusive<br />

biking and walking trails are dotted on the<br />

surrounding 1000-acres of privately-owned<br />

land. For further information and bookings<br />

go to gibbstonvalleylodgeandspa.com.

Wine & Time<br />

Diners will enjoy dessert prepared by award winning chef Ben Bayly, pictured in Arrowtown with Emma Chisholm.<br />

Progressive Dinner Tours<br />

launch in Queenstown<br />

The region’s first ever Progressive<br />

Dinner Tour has landed in<br />

Queenstown, hosted by renowned<br />

operators Alpine Wine Tours.<br />

Guests can now explore<br />

the very best of Queenstown’s<br />

renowned wineries, microbreweries<br />

and restaurants in just<br />

one evening, on the ultimate<br />

Progressive Dinner Tour.<br />

Owner-operator Emma<br />

Chisholm says she saw a gap in<br />

the market for night-time activities<br />

and jumped at the opportunity to<br />

launch something a little different.<br />

“Evening activity options<br />

are few and far between in<br />

Queenstown, but the Progressive<br />

Dinner Tour fills that void and<br />

gives people a chance to go on<br />

an incredible night-time journey<br />

where they can relax, meet new<br />

friends and experience the very<br />

best food, wine and craft beer<br />

the region has to offer,” she says.<br />

The Tours visit three iconic<br />

locations, including the<br />

picturesque Shotover River, the<br />

Valley of Vines – Gibbston Valley<br />

– and historic Arrowtown. Tours<br />

start and end in vibrant central<br />

Queenstown, meaning guests<br />

can start their evening in town<br />

early before pick up, or extend<br />

into the night following drop off.<br />

Guests travel comfortably in<br />

a luxurious Mercedes Sprinter<br />

driven by a knowledgeable<br />

local host.<br />

Alpine Wine Tours is familyowned<br />

and operated by Emma<br />

and director Lee Saunders.<br />

With family connections to<br />

Queenstown and the wider<br />

Otago region dating back nearly<br />

60 years, the pair’s combined<br />

local knowledge and family<br />

heritage means they offer guests<br />

a genuinely authentic kiwi<br />

hospitality experience in ‘their<br />

own’ backyard.<br />

On the Queenstown<br />

Progressive Dinner Tours, courses<br />

are expertly matched with<br />

multiple glasses of renowned<br />

Central Otago wine, locally<br />

brewed craft beer and a cheeky<br />

after-dinner nightcap.<br />

For further information or to<br />

book go to www.alpinewinetours.<br />

co.nz<br />

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />


Wine & Time<br />

Charley Noble trainee tries new WelTec chef<br />

course to keep industry standards high<br />

Head chef at famed Wellington<br />

restaurant Charley Noble, Philipp<br />

Doerr has encouraged his young<br />

trainee, Olivia Scholten, to sign<br />

up for WelTec’s new learn-as-youearn<br />

Managed Traineeship New<br />

Zealand Certificate in Cookery<br />

Level 4.<br />

This programme is specifically<br />

designed for trainee chefs already<br />

working in professional kitchens to<br />

ensure the skills they learn at work<br />

are backed up with academic<br />

qualifications gained at WelTec.<br />

The programme puts students on<br />

a pathway to real success as a<br />

chef.<br />

Philipp, who is German, said the<br />

learn-as-you-earn approach was<br />

how many young people trained<br />

in Germany and the approach<br />

has his full support.<br />

“As a young person who is still<br />

learning, you can get paid and<br />

still get a qualification, plus you<br />

are immediately transferring what<br />

you learn in your tutorials to the<br />

kitchen. If you learn everything in<br />

the classroom and then a year<br />

later you try to use those skills in<br />

a professional kitchen, chances<br />

are you will have forgotten half of<br />

them.<br />

“So many people working in<br />

kitchens don’t really know what<br />

they are doing, which can be<br />

dangerous, particularly in regard<br />

to food safety and knife skills. But<br />

in a busy kitchen, like Charley<br />

Noble, we don’t have the time<br />

to stand over people and teach<br />

them how to do everything<br />

correctly. That is why this course is<br />

so important.”<br />

Philip has been in the<br />

restaurant industry for 15 years,<br />

11 of which have been in New<br />

Zealand where he joined Charley<br />

Noble at its inception.<br />

Xanadu Cabernet Sauvignon, best in wine<br />

show of Western Australia<br />

Margaret River winery Xanadu was announced as<br />

a winner of the Wine Show of Western Australia, Shire<br />

of Plantagenet Trophy, Best Wine of Show, for its <strong>20</strong>17<br />

DJL Cabernet Sauvignon, and was also awarded the<br />

trophy for Best Red Wine of Show. Source: Winetitles<br />

The Global wine market is currently worth an<br />

estimated $342.43 billion and expected to grow<br />

5.1 percent by <strong>20</strong>23. However, prohibitive barriers to<br />

trade in wine have made it hard for wine regions to<br />

compete on a level playing field in the global market.<br />

<br />

Source: Wine Industry Advisor<br />

22 <strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Summer</strong> <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>/<strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong>

Wine & Time<br />

Philipp describes Olivia, who<br />

started as a kitchen hand at<br />

Charley Noble early last year, as a<br />

“keen worker who is willing to put<br />

in the hard yards” and as a result,<br />

she moved up the ranks quickly<br />

and is now managing a section<br />

in the Charley Noble kitchen.<br />

“This is impressive for a <strong>20</strong>-yearold<br />

who has only been in our<br />

kitchen since February last<br />

year, so I pushed Olivia to do<br />

the WelTec course. I believe<br />

qualifications are very important<br />

for those who have ambitions in<br />

this industry,” he says.<br />

Olivia first tried her hand at<br />

studying psychology at Victoria<br />

University Wellington when she<br />

left Wellington High School, then<br />

she worked at a restaurant in<br />

Johnsonville.<br />

“I started in this industry washing<br />

dishes and now I manage a<br />

section in a famous kitchen,” says<br />

Olivia. “There is so much more I<br />

still don’t know and I am excited<br />

and determined to succeed in my<br />

course.”<br />

“Hospitality is still a very<br />

underappreciated industry in<br />

Wellington,” says Philipp. “We<br />

work very hard to serve highquality<br />

food, and people don’t<br />

necessarily understand the level<br />

of skill that it requires. The more<br />

people with qualifications, the<br />

better it will be for employers, and<br />

ultimately, for our guests.”<br />

Wolf Blass crowned<br />

Great Australian<br />

Red <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong><br />

The South Australian Winery has,<br />

yet again, been crowned Great<br />

Australian Red, which makes<br />

this year the third time it has<br />

taken this award home since its<br />

conception in <strong>20</strong>06.<br />

<br />

Source: Winetitles<br />

Yealands Wine Group<br />

appoints new CEO<br />

Renewed focus on worldleading<br />

sustainability practice<br />

and global market expansion<br />

Leading New Zealand wine<br />

producer, Yealands Wine Group,<br />

has today announced the<br />

appointment of Tiffani Graydon<br />

as Chief Executive Officer.<br />

Graydon brings with her a<br />

wealth of 25 years’ industry<br />

knowledge and senior<br />

executive experience in both<br />

New Zealand and offshore<br />

markets as well as a proven<br />

record in business and brand<br />

transformation. She has<br />

previously worked at Yealands<br />

in a General Manager Sales<br />

and Marketing capacity.<br />

“After rapid expansion over<br />

the last decade, Yealands Wine<br />

Group is now ready to enter the<br />

next phase of business growth.<br />

The future is very bright, and<br />

one I’m excited to lead the<br />

team through as we focus on<br />

building brand equity globally<br />

and here in New Zealand;<br />

alongside cementing our<br />

position in sustainable wine<br />

making.<br />

“What sets the Yealands’ story<br />

apart from many others in the<br />

New Zealand wine industry, and<br />

part of what drew me back to<br />

the company, is the opportunity<br />

we have to take a genuine<br />

leadership role in sustainable<br />

winemaking. It’s a value held<br />

strongly by our people but is<br />

also something which is driving<br />

consumers’ decision-making in<br />

their brand choices,” Graydon<br />

says.<br />

In the coming weeks,<br />

Graydon and the senior<br />

leadership team, will refine the<br />

organisation’s business strategy<br />

focusing resources on key<br />

growth areas for the business.<br />

The sustainability efforts at<br />

Yealands are centred around<br />

the idea to ‘tread lightly’. Its<br />

focus continues to be on<br />

delivering the best quality,<br />

award-winning wines, with a<br />

light environmental footprint, to<br />

its existing 65 global markets<br />

and beyond.<br />

“Yealands is the first winery<br />

in the world to achieve<br />

carboNZeroCertTM certification<br />

from inception and we are<br />

currently the only winery in<br />

New Zealand that holds this<br />

accreditation. We’re very proud<br />

of this achievement but we<br />

certainly don’t rest on our<br />

laurels and are committed<br />

to continually finding new<br />

sustainable practices,” Graydon<br />

says.<br />

Peter Radich, Chairman of<br />

Yealands Wine Group says<br />

“We’re looking forward to<br />

Yealands’ business growth with<br />

Tiffani leading the way. She has<br />

invaluable<br />

international and senior<br />

executive experience in the<br />

wine industry, a passion for<br />

sustainability, and has a strong<br />

determination to succeed.”<br />

Yealands Estate Wines is one<br />

of New Zealand’s largest wine<br />

exporters and is proud to be<br />

100% locally owned, a rarity in<br />

the wine industry. Owned by<br />

the people of Marlborough,<br />

Yealands is committed to<br />

opening its doors to give locals<br />

the opportunity to experience<br />

firsthand their own investment<br />

as well as deliver a strong<br />

performance over the coming<br />

years.<br />

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />


Wine & Time<br />

Left to right: Timothy Evill of Lawson’s Dry Hills, Paul Donaldson of Pegasus Bay, Annie Millton of Millton Vineyards,<br />

Stephan Walliser of Fromm Winery, Karen Fistonich of Villa Maria, Judy Finn of Neudorf Vineyards, Clive Weston of<br />

Nautilus Estate, Aaron Drummond of Craggy Range, Pip Goodwin of Palliser Estate, Blair Walter of Felton Road,<br />

Helen Masters of Ata Rangi and Paul Brajkovich of Kumeu River.<br />

Family Event<br />

New Zealand’s Family of Twelve are<br />

thrilled to announce that our third<br />

annual Wine Tutorial will take place<br />

2nd – 4th August <strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong> among the<br />

vines in Marlborough, home to<br />

four Family wineries. This unique<br />

event represents an extraordinary<br />

opportunity for just twelve wine<br />

professionals globally.<br />

Mills Reef announces move<br />

to new winery site<br />

Mills Reef Winery is pleased<br />

to announce that its winery’s<br />

operations are to be relocated<br />

from their current Bethlehem site<br />

in Tauranga, to the Leveret Estate,<br />

formerly Morton Estate, sited<br />

on State Highway 2 about five<br />

kilometres south of Katikati.<br />

Says Mills Reef director Tim<br />

Preston, “we explored many site<br />

options, but the opportunity to<br />

team up with Leveret and create<br />

a Bay Of Plenty ‘wine destination<br />

hub’ certainly stood out as the<br />

preferred option”.<br />

The Mills Reef brand will<br />

continue to source its grapes from<br />

the Hawkes Bay region, with the<br />

winemaking from <strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong> season<br />

onward being completed at the<br />

Katikati site.<br />

“We have a lot of loyal followers<br />

here in Tauranga, so it’s great<br />

to be able to stay in the Bay Of<br />

Plenty. The move will also give us<br />

access to some new vineyards<br />

and we look forward to exploring<br />

those options”, says Tim.<br />

The current Mills Reef winery<br />

restaurant will remain open<br />

in Bethlehem until Saturday<br />

December 14th and the tasting<br />

room until Sunday December<br />

22nd. Thereafter the tasting room<br />

will be moved to the new Katikati<br />

site where wine lovers will be<br />

able to continue discovering and<br />

enjoying the Mills Reef wines on<br />

offer.<br />

The present Bethlehem site is<br />

already in the initial stages of<br />

redevelopment into a lifestyle<br />

retirement village. The landmark<br />

art-deco winery building will<br />

be retained and extended to<br />

eventually become a communal<br />

centre for the village. Says Tim<br />

“it’s great that the winery’s history<br />

on this site is being preserved<br />

through retention of the building,<br />

whilst naming of the village and its<br />

streets also pays homage to that<br />

history”.<br />

Tim further acknowledges<br />

that over the 25 years Mills Reef<br />

has been on its Bethlehem site,<br />

there have been many special<br />

occasions including weddings<br />

and celebrations. He says “it’s<br />

great that the main building will<br />

remain to retain those memories.”<br />

As for the winery’s new Katikati<br />

location, Tim says “we look<br />

forward to partnering with Leveret<br />

Estate to offer wine lovers a new<br />

and exciting wine destination<br />

experience for the Bay”.<br />

Likewise, Director of Leveret<br />

Estate Wines, Fiona MacDiarmid,<br />

says “we’ve had a long<br />

association with Mills Reef, and<br />

this move to begin sharing our<br />

winemaking facilities and cellar<br />

door is an exciting development.”<br />

24 <strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Summer</strong> <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>/<strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong>

Wine & Time<br />


Now you can enjoy lower<br />

alcohol wine.<br />

A first year Bachelor of Viticulture and Wine<br />

Science student at EIT will be the lucky<br />

recipient of the new scholarship.<br />

Substantial scholarship up<br />

for grabs for viticulture &<br />

wine student<br />

The EIT Viticulture and Wine Science team<br />

are excited to announce a new scholarship.<br />

The scholarship will be awarded to one <strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong><br />

first year student enrolled in the Bachelor of<br />

Viticulture and Wine Science* and is offered<br />

by organic winegrowing company Urlar from<br />

Gladstone, Wairarapa.<br />

The scholarship has been established by<br />

Kohei Koyama, Winegrower and Director<br />

for Urlar. Kohei completed a law degree at<br />

the University of Tokyo and worked in the<br />

financial sector for over a decade. He then<br />

came to New Zealand to pursue his dream<br />

of winemaking. Kohei gained a degree<br />

in Viticulture and Oenology and is now<br />

dedicated to support people to thrive in the<br />

wine industry.<br />

“We are looking for applicants who are<br />

highly motivated and passionate about<br />

organic viticulture and winemaking,”<br />

says Kohei. “The ideal candidate is highly<br />

committed to the wine industry and of<br />

course a wine lover.”<br />

Any first year Bachelor of Viticulture and<br />

Wine Science student will be able to apply<br />

for the scholarship with a preference for<br />

applicants from the Wairarapa district.<br />

The grant will be awarded at the end of<br />

semester one of the first year of the degree<br />

and will be paid across the whole degree.<br />

The successful recipient will also have<br />

practical work opportunities working for the<br />

organic fine wine producer.<br />

“The generous $10,000 scholarship will<br />

make a huge difference to a student,”<br />

says Sue Blackmore, Head of School of<br />

Viticulture and Wine Science. “It’s a fantastic<br />

opportunity to cover costs and study in the<br />

most diverse wine area in New Zealand.”<br />

*Subject to approval and accreditation.<br />

Lighter wines are bold , full of flavour and<br />

naturally lower in alcohol. When it comes<br />

to world of wine sipping, there’s usually an<br />

all-or-nothing mentality: You can still enjoy a<br />

glass without giving up what New Zealand<br />

wine is famous for - premium quality, varietally<br />

expressive and delicious wines. You can even<br />

say that lighter wines from New Zealand<br />

are perfectly matched with those aiming<br />

for balance when it comes to incorporating<br />

wellness in their life.<br />

Low alcohol wine sales have dramatically<br />

increased in the last five years. New Zealand<br />

has set out to be a pioneer in the low alcohol<br />

wine category, with consumers showing<br />

a growing appetite for such products. The<br />

challenge has been to create wines that<br />

maintain the same quality as their traditional<br />

counterparts, but Stoneleigh believe its new<br />

launches have succeeded: Quite often,<br />

experienced wine tasters don’t know it’s a<br />

lighter wine until we tell them.<br />

<strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong> Wine Challenge<br />

CONGRATULATIONS: Congratulations to the<br />

teams at Forrest Wines and Spy Valley for<br />

collecting awards at the <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong> International<br />

Wine Challenge. Forrest Wines, The Doctors’<br />

Sauvignon Blanc <strong>20</strong>18 picked up a Bronze and<br />

Spy Valley Easy Tiger Sauvignon Blanc <strong>20</strong>18 a<br />

Highly Commended. Beth Forrest comes from a<br />

family legacy wine business and is one of the<br />

women making inroads in the industry.<br />

Barossa wine sector gets<br />

financial boost to promote<br />

wines in China and USA<br />

Barossa wine industry has been given a<br />

financial shot in the arm thanks to a $470,000<br />

government grant to promote Barossa wine<br />

in China and the USA, and attract more<br />

international tourists in to the region.<br />

<br />

Source: Vinex<br />

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />


Wine & Time<br />

Sonoma's Kincade Fire Claims<br />

75,000 Acres<br />

What does Wine<br />

research and<br />

development<br />

achieve in<br />

New Zealand?<br />

The largest research and development<br />

effort ever undertaken by the New Zealand<br />

wine industry designed to position New<br />

Zealand as number 1 in the world for high<br />

quality, lower alcohol and lower calorie<br />

wines is underway.<br />

“The lifestyle Wines Programme will raise<br />

New Zealand already strong reputation for<br />

producing some of the world’s finest wines,”<br />

says Justine Gilliland, MPI’s director PGP. “This<br />

is the first wine industry programme under<br />

the PGP, marking not only an exciting time<br />

for the PGP but for our wine industry.<br />

Phillip Gregan, New Zealand’s Wine<br />

Growers CEO, says the programme aims<br />

to capitalise on market-led opportunities<br />

domestically and internationally. “Research<br />

indicates that an increasing proportion<br />

of consumers are making purchasing<br />

decisions around their lifestyle, such as<br />

choosing healthier foods and lower alcohol<br />

wines” he says.<br />

“Our challenge now is not just producing<br />

high quality lower alcohol and lower calorie<br />

wines but producing them naturally-this will<br />

give New Zealand a point of difference and<br />

make New Zealand the “go to” country for<br />

high quality, lower alcohol and lower calorie<br />

wines.<br />

The programme will develop a number of<br />

viticulture and winery tools that will enable<br />

the industry to service the rapidly growing<br />

market for lower calorie and lower alcohol<br />

wines with high quality, naturally-produced<br />

options.<br />

MPI will invest up to NZ$8.13 million in<br />

this PGP programme over seven years,<br />

with $8.84 million coming from industry<br />

partners as a mixture of cash and in-kind<br />

contributions.<br />

With evacuation orders in effect, some vintners know<br />

their properties survived, while other are in the dark.<br />

According to California state agency Cal fire, the<br />

Kincade fire has burned 75,415 acres and is 15<br />

percent contained as of Tuesday morning. At least<br />

123 structures, including Soda Rock Winery and<br />

the home of Jackson Valley Wines’ Julia Jackson,<br />

have been destroyed. The National Weather service<br />

has issued a wind advisory for the region which will<br />

go into effect at noon today; with gusts forecast to<br />

reach 45 to 65 mph, concerns are high that the fire<br />

will continue to spread.<br />

Viva Vino Italiano<br />

Italian wine imports to<br />

New Zealand have<br />

more than doubled<br />

in the past five years<br />

with almost million litres<br />

coming into the country<br />

last<br />

year. Italy is the third<br />

largest exporter of wine<br />

to New Zealand behind<br />

Australia and France.<br />

Vino Italiano<br />

showcased 150 Italian<br />

wines for tasting at<br />

the August 31 event<br />

in Auckland. It was<br />

attended by 16<br />

representatives from<br />

Italian wineries.<br />

Organiser Marco<br />

Nordio, the director of<br />

leading Italian wine<br />

importer Sapori d’ Italia,<br />

says New Zealand is<br />

a nation of discerning<br />

wine drinkers and the<br />

growth and popularity<br />

of Italian wines provides<br />

Kiwi wine lovers with<br />

greater choice.<br />

Italian winemakers<br />

attending Vino Italiano<br />

include Antonio Benanti<br />

of Benanti Winery,<br />

located on the slopes<br />

of Mt Etna in Sicily;<br />

Pio Boffa, owner of<br />

renowned 138-yearold<br />

winery Pio Cesare<br />

in Piedmont, Northern<br />

Italy; and Tuscan<br />

winery Ricasoli which<br />

documents the history<br />

of Chianti Classico.<br />

Sommelier Andrea<br />

Martinisi from The Grove,<br />

who represented New<br />

Zealand for the first time<br />

at an ASI World Best<br />

Sommelier Contest in<br />

Belgium in March, ran<br />

a master class at the<br />

event.<br />

Other master<br />

classes<br />

conducted by:<br />

∞ New Zealand wine<br />

writer, Yvonne Lorkin,<br />

on Kiwi versions of<br />

Italian classics<br />

∞ Angelo Minelli of Wine<br />

Searcher on Metodo<br />

Classico: Franciacorta,<br />

Trento and other<br />

DOCs<br />

The majority of the<br />

wines available at Vino<br />

Italiano are usually<br />

only available in select<br />

restaurants, making it a<br />

rare opportunity to do<br />

tastings. The food was<br />

provided by importer<br />

Mediterranean Foods<br />

and the ticket price<br />

includes tastings of all<br />

wine and food.<br />

26 <strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Summer</strong> <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>/<strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong>

New Product Releases<br />

Lindauer Goes Free*<br />

For <strong>Summer</strong><br />

November <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong><br />

New Zealand's number one sparkling<br />

wine brand has launched the first New<br />

Zealand alcohol-removed sparkling<br />

wine, Lindauer Free*, just in time for<br />

summer festivities!<br />

Fresh and vibrant with a lingering<br />

finish, Lindauer Free* is a great choice<br />

for those that are looking to moderate<br />

their alcohol content this festive season,<br />

but don’t want to sacrifice on flavour or<br />

fun.<br />

Available in Sparkling Brut and<br />

Rosé , this very special Limited Edition<br />

release is made by award-winning<br />

head winemaker Jane De Witt, in the<br />

same way as Lindauer’s traditional<br />

sparkling wine, but with the alcohol<br />

gently removed at the end, leaving only<br />

a trace.<br />

Jane De Witt says, “Lindauer is a party<br />

favourite over summer and there was a<br />

real gap in the market for us to offer our<br />

signature taste and quality, without the<br />

usual alcohol content.<br />

“As a classified sparkling wine, the<br />

grapes are picked, de-juiced, fined,<br />

fermented, stabilised and filtered in the<br />

same way as our other wines. The only<br />

difference is that the product goes<br />

through a gentle and sophisticated<br />

‘Spinning Cone’ process at the end to<br />

remove most of the alcohol,” says Jane.<br />

At no more than 0.5% ABV, Lindauer<br />

Free* has roughly the same amount<br />

of alcohol as you could expect to find<br />

in a ripe banana and some brands of<br />

kombucha.<br />

Lindauer Free* Sparkling Brut and<br />

Rosé are widely available now in<br />

supermarkets and select liquor stores.<br />

Product<br />

information:<br />

Flavour notes:<br />

Brut Lindauer Free* Brut<br />

is fresh, vibrant and<br />

well balanced, with a<br />

lingering finish.<br />

Rosé Lindauer Free*<br />

Rosé has hints of<br />

strawberry and<br />

delightful freshness, a<br />

great structure with a<br />

lingering finish.<br />

Sold in 750ml bottles<br />

with an RRP price of<br />

$13.99<br />

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />


New Product releases<br />



Recently launched<br />

“ I<br />

nvivo X, Sarah Jessica<br />

Parker Sauvignon<br />

Blanc ”, made from<br />

Marlborough grapes, will be<br />

available nationwide in New<br />

Zealand from early September.<br />

SJP’s New Zealand wine will be<br />

instrumental in raising the profile<br />

of Kiwi Sauvignon Blanc around<br />

the world as it’s also set to launch<br />

in US, Australia, Japan, UK, Ireland,<br />

Hong Kong and Canada .<br />

Sarah Jessica Parker<br />

comments: “I have thoroughly<br />

enjoyed the collaboration with<br />

Rob and Tim, from our initial<br />

conversations discussing wine<br />

styles, to the creative process on<br />

the brand and label design and<br />

of course the Sauvignon Blanc<br />

28 <strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Summer</strong> <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>/<strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong>

New Product Releases<br />

blending session, it’s been one<br />

exciting step after another.”<br />

Loved worldwide for her<br />

acting, perfumes and her<br />

wildly successful shoes, Sarah<br />

Jessica Parker announced her<br />

partnership with New Zealand’s<br />

most innovative wine company<br />

to the world in February this year.<br />

Over a three-hour session, SJP<br />

and the Invivo team finalized the<br />

proportions from each vineyard<br />

to create the exact wine blend.<br />

Sarah Jessica Parker was<br />

hands-on throughout the whole<br />

process: “While I’m new to<br />

winemaking, the Invivo fellows<br />

generously taught, showed and<br />

shared as much of the art and<br />

science of their business and<br />

hopefully I have absorbed some<br />

of their Kiwi confidence.”<br />

This celebrity partnership is<br />

not uncharted territory for the<br />

growing New Zealand wine<br />

brand as Invivo & Co also<br />

produces a successful wine<br />

brand with UK talk show host<br />

Graham Norton . His brand<br />

debuted in <strong>20</strong>14 selling<br />

12,000 bottles in the first year<br />

and now today sells 3.5 million<br />

bottles globally . Invivo & Co<br />

looks forward to growing<br />

Sarah Jessica Parker’s<br />

collection of wines to reflect<br />

her personal preferences<br />

and love for wine in the<br />

same way.<br />

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />


Feature | NZIT Student Wine<br />

Student wineS<br />

pleaSe the palate<br />

Student winemakers<br />

from NMIT tested<br />

their skills against<br />

the refined palate of<br />

an internationallyrenowned<br />

judge at the<br />

<strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong> Marlborough Wine Show.<br />

It was the first time student<br />

winemakers were included in<br />

the highly-regarded wine show,<br />

an annual event dedicated to<br />

showcasing Marlborough as a<br />

leading wine region.<br />

The opportunity came about<br />

thanks to NMIT Viticulture and<br />

Winemaking lead tutor, Nadine<br />

Worley, who approached Harriet<br />

Wadworth, marketing and<br />

communications manager<br />

at Wine Marlborough, about<br />

including students in the show.<br />

Harriet agreed and the Ginkgo<br />

Trophy was created especially for<br />

the student category of the show,<br />

named for the Ginkgo tree in the<br />

Marlborough NMIT campus.<br />

As part of the Wine Production<br />

(Level 5) course, first-year<br />

students get the opportunity<br />

to produce their own wine,<br />

making full decisions about<br />

the ingredients, pressing of the<br />

grapes, variety, skin contact,<br />

and more with an allocated 50<br />

kilograms of grapes.<br />

The Wine Production course is<br />

part of the three-year Bachelor<br />

of Viticulture and Winemaking<br />

(Level 7).<br />

Students were then able<br />

to enter their wines into the<br />

Marlborough Wine Show, to be<br />

judged by international wine<br />

judge and Master of Wine<br />

student, Jack Glover. Student<br />

Discover Kinross, a stunning boutique<br />

vineyard hotel, bistro and wine cellar<br />

set deep in the heart of Gibbston,<br />

New Zealand’s spectacular<br />

‘Valley of the Vines.<br />

Only 10 minutes from Arrowtown,<br />

Kinross is the ideal base for wine<br />

lovers to explore Central Otago, ski, or<br />

simply relax in our guest hot tub,<br />

drinking in the view of the stunning<br />

Pisa range. With 14 delightful<br />

cottages, cellar door, wine garden,<br />

bistro and cycle hire on site, we offer<br />

couples, families and good friends a<br />

truly idyllic summer holiday.<br />

Kinross have launched an impressive<br />

wine club offering wine collections<br />

and special vintages from the area’s<br />

leading wine makers including Coal<br />

Pit, Domaine Thomson, Hawkshead,<br />

Valli and Wild Irishman along with our<br />

new wine label, Kinross.<br />

Visit kinross.nz to explore<br />

our world of wine.<br />

30 <strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Summer</strong> <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong><br />

FINALIST, NZ CELLAR DOOR OF THE YEAR <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>

NZIT Student Wine | Feature<br />

wines made for the competition included<br />

Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling and<br />

Pinot Noir.<br />

Henri Steele was the winner of the student<br />

competition and awarded the Gingko<br />

Trophy for her “Steele Pinot Gris <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>”. Jack’s<br />

judging notes said that Henri’s wine had a<br />

“layered palate with cleansing juicy acidity”<br />

and the pear and red apple skin gave it<br />

“varietal intensity”.<br />

Henri says it was exciting to make a wine<br />

from start to finish and to have it entered in<br />

such a prestigious wine show. “It was cool<br />

to be able to make my own wine. At a lot<br />

of other institutes you don’t get to do that<br />

until your second or third year,” she says. “It<br />

was really good to see how I could put two<br />

and two together and put the management<br />

practices into play.”<br />

She says she chose to study winemaking<br />

at NMIT because of the hands-on practical<br />

nature of the course, and the location was<br />

close to home. Henri was also encouraged<br />

by her employers, Berakah Vineyard<br />

Management “I really want to thank them<br />

for their support and how they have allowed<br />

me to gain experience and to continue<br />

working in the industry while I am studying.”<br />

“I’m dyslexic and learn better by example,”<br />

she says. “It also looked like the class would<br />

be one-to-one with the tutors and there<br />

would be lots of hands-on learning. I felt<br />

like I got so much great support from the<br />

tutors and really recommend the course to<br />

practical learners.”<br />

Henri says she hopes to take what she<br />

learns at NMIT and apply it to improving<br />

her parents’ vineyard and wine business in<br />

Marlborough.<br />



SINCE 1982<br />

603 Rapaura Road,<br />

Blenheim, Marlborough<br />

Open 7 days<br />

9:30am - 5:30pm<br />

Distributed Nation<br />

Wide by EuroVintage<br />

eurovintage.co.nz<br />

NMIT Viticulture and Winemaking lead tutor<br />

Nadine Worley, Best Student Wine award-winner<br />

Henri Steele, and Wine Marlborough marketing<br />

and communications manager, Harriet<br />

Wadworth.<br />

0800 HUNTERS | www.hunters.co.nz www.winenzmagazine.co.nz | @HuntersWinesNZ 31

Feature | First Lady of Wine<br />

At home<br />

with NZ's<br />

first lAdy<br />

of wiNe<br />

Despite her high public profile as one of the<br />

most awarded and recognised women in<br />

New Zealand wine, Jane Hunter is a reserved,<br />

private person. Charmian Smith visits the<br />

“First lady of New Zeland wine”.<br />

32 <strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Summer</strong> <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>/<strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong>

First Lady of Wine | Feature<br />

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />


Feature | First Lady of Wine<br />

Hunter’s walkway <strong>20</strong>16<br />

After more<br />

than 30 years<br />

leading Hunter’s<br />

Wines, Jane<br />

Hunter is slowly<br />

stepping back<br />

from the family business, the<br />

only one of the four earliest<br />

Marlborough wineries still in the<br />

same ownership. The younger<br />

generation, nephews, James<br />

and Edward Macdonald, are<br />

taking more responsibility from<br />

Jane and her brother, general<br />

manager Peter Macdonald.l.<br />

Although she’s at Hunter’s<br />

most days and still does some<br />

travelling to promote the wine,<br />

she can now pick and choose<br />

where she wants to go, she says.<br />

It also means that when she<br />

feels like it she can pop away to<br />

Adelaide where she has a house.<br />

She grew up in South Australia<br />

where her parents were in the<br />

wine industry and still has family<br />

there.<br />

An urn among the plantings - one of the delightful little surprises one does<br />

across when walking round the garden.<br />

The Hunter’s story has become<br />

part of the New Zealand wine<br />

legend - the ebullient Irishman<br />

Ernie Hunter founding the winery<br />

in 1979 and going on to win the<br />

top award at the Sunday Times<br />

Vintage Wine Show in the UK in<br />

1986, then again in 1987, 1988,<br />

1992 and <strong>20</strong>01. It brought New<br />

Zealand wine and sauvignon<br />

34 <strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Summer</strong> <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>/<strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong>

First Lady of Wine | Feature<br />

A heron sculpture lurks in one corner of a neatly clipped hedge.<br />

If you stick around long<br />

enough, awards and<br />

recognition comes.<br />

blanc in particular to the world’s<br />

notice. However, in 1987 Ernie<br />

was tragically killed in a motor<br />

accident.<br />

Jane Hunter, a viticulturist<br />

working for Montana at the<br />

time, took over the reins and her<br />

determination and expertise<br />

built the company her late<br />

husband had founded into one<br />

of New Zealand’s leading wine<br />

producers.<br />

Jane has been described by<br />

the London Sunday Times as the<br />

“First Lady of New Zealand Wine”<br />

and was awarded an OBE for<br />

service to the wine industry in<br />

1993. Among other awards and<br />

recognitions, she also has an<br />

Honorary Doctorate of Science<br />

from Massey University, received<br />

the inaugural Wine & Spirit<br />

Competition Women in Wine<br />

Award and was awarded the<br />

Companion to the New Zealand<br />

Order of Merit (CNZM) in <strong>20</strong>09.<br />

Most recently she was inducted<br />

into the New Zealand Business<br />

Hall of Fame.<br />

But despite all her awards and<br />

achievements she remains low<br />

key, gracious, and even slightly<br />

self-effacing,<br />

“If you stick around long<br />

enough awards and recognition<br />

comes,” she says modestly.<br />

Her reserve is reflected in her<br />

house and garden tucked away<br />

down a private lane in Renwick.<br />

Jane and her husband Graeme<br />

Coates both love gardening<br />

and about three years ago they<br />

moved into a spacious house<br />

A deer made of<br />

vine cuttings lurks<br />

in the bushes.<br />

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />


Feature | First Lady of Wine<br />

“What we are finding<br />

now in Marlborough<br />

is a lot of people<br />

want to sell their<br />

vineyards but they’ve<br />

got these whopping<br />

great big houses on<br />

and no one wants<br />

the houses. We all<br />

want vineyards but<br />

we don’t want these<br />

great big houses<br />

that are on them.<br />

I remember dad<br />

saying do not do it.”<br />

The upstairs sitting room with views of the Richmond Ranges is a lovely<br />

place to sit and read or for an intimate chat.<br />

on a secluded, almost half-acre<br />

corner section.<br />

The garden faces north and<br />

west so the sun sweeps right<br />

around. On one side it backs<br />

on to Te Whare Ra’s organic<br />

vineyards and behind the<br />

northern fence is a big ravine<br />

making it difficult to be built out<br />

on that side, she says.<br />

They’ve made some alterations<br />

to the garden, including taking<br />

out several trees and building a<br />

swimming pool on the sheltered<br />

western side of the house.<br />

Tucked away on one side of<br />

the pool is a small vegetable<br />

plot, still to be camouflaged by a<br />

screen.<br />

Irrigation is a limited resource<br />

especially in Renwick, so they<br />

redesigned the automatic<br />

irrigation scheme and installed<br />

a reservoir tank. It runs at night,<br />

and they don’t even try to keep<br />

the lawn green at the height of<br />

summer. But it does mean the<br />

garden looks after itself when<br />

they are away, she says.<br />

In the back corner beyond the<br />

pool a screen hides the working<br />

area, the water tank, compost<br />

bins and garden shed.<br />

The main part of the garden<br />

on the northern side of the<br />

house is in an English style. They<br />

combined two smaller gardens<br />

into a large lawn surrounded by<br />

FROM TOP:<br />

A striking<br />

Australian<br />

Aboriginal work<br />

hangs over the<br />

mantelpiece in<br />

the lounge.<br />

Jane relaxes<br />

on the patio<br />

outside the<br />

kitchen.<br />

Objets d’art,<br />

paintings - all<br />

arranged with<br />

Jane’s natural<br />

flair.<br />

36 <strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Summer</strong> <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>/<strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong>

First Lady of Wine | Feature<br />

Family garden <strong>20</strong>18 - from left Peter Macdonald (general manager), Jane Hunter, Edward Macdonald (assistant<br />

general manager) and James Macdonald (senior winemaker).<br />

Jane with Tabitha Jane Hunter & Winery Cat <strong>20</strong>16<br />

bedding with taller plants behind<br />

to help shelter it from the wind.<br />

Graeme, who lived in Scotland<br />

for several years, compared the<br />

view of the Richmond Hills from<br />

upstairs to what he had been<br />

used to there - except for a few<br />

deer wandering about, Jane<br />

said. So she gave him some deer<br />

made out of vine cuttings one<br />

Christmas. They now lurk in the<br />

undergrowth.<br />

Jane loves colour in the garden<br />

and having flowers inside. She<br />

mixes hebes with roses, and has<br />

planted lots of lilies, dahlias and<br />

hydrangeas. A pergola, once<br />

a laburnum arch, has been<br />

taken over by roses, wisteria and<br />

clematis. Big colourful geraniums<br />

fill some of the large pots and<br />

sculptures are dotted around,<br />

accenting corners or tucked<br />

away to surprise a visitor strolling<br />

round.<br />

Similar accents of colour and<br />

intrigue, inviting corners and<br />

attractive nooks with interesting<br />

arrangements of objects d’art<br />

feature in the house. Here they<br />

prefer smaller, more intimate<br />

spaces rather than open plan<br />

living, she says.<br />

When there are no guests<br />

staying upstairs, the large<br />

landing with the sun streaming<br />

in and views of the Richmond<br />

Hills is a lovely place to sit and<br />

read or for an intimate chat.<br />

Characteristically it features<br />

several of Jane’s attractive nooks<br />

and interesting arrangements.<br />

A striking South Australian<br />

Aboriginal work hangs over<br />

the fireplace in the downstairs<br />

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />


Feature | First Lady of Wine<br />

Cellar Door <strong>20</strong>18<br />

“When I was<br />

growing up in<br />

South Australia,<br />

my father always<br />

said ‘never put<br />

your house on a<br />

vineyard,” she said.<br />

lounge, with new cabinetry either<br />

side. On the opposite wall is a<br />

large drawing of dogs that used<br />

to decorate Hunter’s restaurant.<br />

When it closed to make way for<br />

the renovated cellar door, she<br />

brought it home.<br />

Over the years Jane has<br />

had numerous canine friends<br />

who featured in the Hunter’s<br />

newsletter, but now she only has<br />

Bella, a large, elderly ginger cat.<br />

She is set in her ways and always<br />

chooses the best places to sleep,<br />

Jane says with a laugh.<br />

Perhaps surprisingly, she chose<br />

not to live in a vineyard.<br />

“When I was growing up in<br />

South Australia, my father always<br />

said ‘never put your house on a<br />

vineyard,” she said.<br />

“What we are finding now in<br />

Marlborough is a lot of people<br />

want to sell their vineyards but<br />

they’ve got these whopping<br />

great big houses on and no one<br />

wants the houses. We all want<br />

vineyards but we don’t want<br />

these great big houses that are<br />

on them. I remember dad saying<br />

do not do it.”<br />

The village of Renwick has been<br />

Jane’s home for many years. She<br />

used to live a couple of streets<br />

away from her present house in a<br />

beautiful old cob cottage she’d<br />

renovated. Then she and Graeme<br />

lived in Blenheim near the Wither<br />

Hills for a few years before looking<br />

for a place with a larger garden.<br />

Jane’s flair for gardening<br />

extends to the gracious<br />

surroundings of the Hunter’s cellar<br />

door in Rapaura Rd which is in<br />

the original farmhouse on the<br />

site. It has been through several<br />

incarnations as a restaurant but<br />

was renovated a couple of years<br />

ago, and now also boasts a<br />

resident artist’s studio.<br />

The award-winning, two-hectare<br />

garden includes a native area<br />

featuring local indigenous<br />

vegetation incorporating some<br />

rare and threatened species.<br />

Surrounding the tasting room are<br />

secluded lawns and pergolas<br />

for relaxing with a glass or two of<br />

wine and a platter of food.<br />

HunTER’S WinES<br />

603 Rapaura Rd,<br />

Blenheim.<br />

+64 3 572 8489<br />

www.hunters.co.nz<br />

38 <strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Summer</strong> <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>/<strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong>

First Lady of Wine | Feature<br />

JAnE HunTER’S<br />

FAvOuRiTE WinES<br />

Gewürztraminer - a lush wine<br />

with a surprising dry finish -<br />

great with Asian food.<br />

MiruMiru Rose - love the<br />

colour, love the taste and it's<br />

so summery.<br />

Offshoot Chardonnay - great<br />

texture and complexity - a real<br />

food wine.<br />

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />


Tastings | Tasting Intro<br />

Our hosts<br />

EIT Our hosts for all wine tastings<br />

Tim Creagh, supervises the blind tastings, in order for Simon Nash<br />

(Master of Wine) and his team to select a range of <strong>Summer</strong> Wines<br />

to recommend.<br />

EIT students attend and gain practical hands-on experience in<br />

the tastings.<br />

EIT - A leading wine educator<br />

Located in sunny Hawkes Bay, a region celebrated<br />

for the diversity and quality of its wine styles, EIT’s<br />

School of Viticulture and Wine Science, offers New<br />

Zealand’s widest range of viticulture and wine<br />

science programmes.<br />

Taught by world-class lecturers with industry<br />

experience, EIT’s programmes range from<br />

certificates and degrees to postgraduate<br />

qualifications. These qualifications encompass<br />

viticulture, winemaking, wine business and wine<br />

marketing.<br />

The modern learning environment includes the<br />

institute’s purpose-built winery and organic vineyard<br />

with <strong>20</strong> varieties of grapes growing there. EIT’s strong<br />

connections with the local wine industry open<br />

up opportunities for students to gain hands-on<br />

experience working in wineries and vineyards in the<br />

area.<br />

Aligned with industry partners, EIT continues to<br />

develop innovative programmes. From <strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong> the EIT<br />

Viticulture and Wine School will offer a new threeyear<br />

degree providing comprehensive skills and<br />

knowledge in both Viticulture and Wine Science.<br />

The degree provides a strong science foundation<br />

with practical application and industry interaction<br />

in all three years. The degree has in-depth focus<br />

on growing grapes and making wine, as well<br />

as the essential skills required once working in<br />

industry related to wine and business i.e. people<br />

management and wine marketing. The latest<br />

research findings, industry technology and<br />

important issues related to sustainability are key<br />

topics.<br />

Students will get an opportunity to make their<br />

own wine, work in vineyards, complete a harvest<br />

internship, develop a wine palate and gain<br />

practical skills like tractor driving, first aid and forklift<br />

licence within the degree structure. Students will be<br />

able to study courses full- or part-time as well as by<br />

up-to date distance online learning.<br />

Master of Wines, Simon Nash. <strong>WineNZ</strong> Taster Profile & Team Leader.<br />

Simon Nash M.A., Master of Wine (1994), Wine agent and consultant. With over<br />

30 years’ experience internationally, Simon is based in Hawkes’ Bay, NZ and<br />

works in a wide variety of roles.<br />

Simon also judges wine and leads the programme for <strong>WineNZ</strong> magazine.<br />

Additionally, he is a judge and consultant to the Fine Wines of New Zealand<br />

programme, supported by Air New Zealand.<br />

40 <strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Summer</strong> <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>/<strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong>

Tasting Intro | Tastings<br />

Chris Scott | Graduate<br />

Chief Winemaker at<br />

Church Road Winery<br />

NEW<br />


DEGREE<br />

FOR <strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong><br />

Make your passion<br />

your profession<br />

Bachelor of Viticulture & Wine Science<br />

New to EIT in Hawke’s Bay in <strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong> – an<br />

updated three year degree which will give<br />

you comprehensive skills and knowledge in<br />

both Viticulture & Wine Science.<br />

The degree provides a strong science<br />

foundation with practical application and<br />

industry interaction in all three years. There<br />

is an in-depth focus on growing grapes<br />

and making wine, as well as the essential<br />

skills required once working in industry<br />

related to people management and<br />

wine marketing.<br />

The latest research, industry technology<br />

and important issues related to<br />

sustainability are key topics. You will get an<br />

opportunity to make your own wine, work<br />

in a vineyard, complete a harvest internship,<br />

develop a wine palate and gain practical<br />

skills like tractor driving, first aid and forklift<br />

license within the degree structure.<br />

With EIT’s flexible study approach you<br />

can study the BVWSc degree either fulltime<br />

on-campus or part-time via distance<br />

learning. You are welcome to make an<br />

appointment to discuss your study options<br />

with our staff either in person or by phone<br />

and to view our facilities.<br />

There’s never been a better time or place<br />

to discover the intriguing world of wine.<br />

eit.ac.nz | 0800 22 55 348 |<br />

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />


Tastings | <strong>Summer</strong> Wine Suggestions<br />

<strong>Summer</strong> win<br />

Our Wine Tasting Team, headed by Master of Wine,<br />

Simon Nash, is looking to change the way our<br />

tastings are conducted in order to better provide<br />

readers with responsible guides to wines available in<br />

New Zealand.<br />

While this is under way, in lieu of our regular summer<br />

tasting, we have asked our judging team to each<br />

recommend 3 choices; Sparkling, Rose, Sauvignon<br />

Blanc. Please do enjoy these options for summer<br />

sipping along with your usual favourites.<br />

Sauvignon Blanc<br />

Seifried Family Winemakers<br />

Sauvignon Blanc Nelson <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong><br />

Simon Nash: Very pale, bright, light aromatics,<br />

almost sherbet, quite delicate, youthful, possibly<br />

a bit dilute? Good lemon/lime flowers.<br />

Matt Kirby: Very focused, lime blossom<br />

with orange and mandarin. Palate is long and<br />

enduring, very good.<br />

Barry Riwai: Classical, currant bud, nettles,<br />

passion lime. Great array of aromas carries<br />

through to the palate. Good length with a ripe<br />

full-flavoured finish.<br />

Hamden Estate<br />

Dry River Terraces <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong> Martinborough<br />

Simon Nash: Light pale, fresh looking. Shy<br />

nose, quite reserved, more weighty. Good<br />

weight. Sweaty, quite complex, serious, will<br />

develop.<br />

Matt Kirby: Dusky and restrained aromas,<br />

Palate has moderate intensity, with orange and<br />

nettle.<br />

Barry Riwai: Nettles, hint of thyme and lime,<br />

may be peppery, spice. Palate is still a little<br />

disjointed but plenty of potential.<br />

42 <strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Summer</strong> <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>/<strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong>

<strong>Summer</strong> Wine Suggestions | Tastings<br />

e suggestions<br />

Auntsfield<br />

Single Vineyard<br />

Marlborough <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong><br />

Simon Nash: Pale bright,<br />

fresh juicy, mix lifted,<br />

pithy grapefruit, clean<br />

very youthful, crisp,<br />

citrus, lime, very pure,<br />

enough complexity.<br />

Matt Kirby: Sea spray<br />

and ripe notes of fennel,<br />

guava and lychee. Palate<br />

long, a richness and<br />

sweetness but shows<br />

balance.<br />

Barry Riwai: Fennel,<br />

lime, some with a touch<br />

of tropical passionfruit.<br />

Mango, full weighty<br />

palate. Persistent back<br />

palate. Some thiol but<br />

gives length.<br />

Toitoi<br />

Sauvignon Blanc<br />

Marlborough <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong><br />

Simon Nash: Very pale, light<br />

bright. Light lemon also some<br />

chalky notes. Nicely balanced. Soft<br />

edge but good mid-palate, lime juice.<br />

Matt Kirby: Very aromatic of passionfruit and guava.<br />

Concentrated palate with powerful fruit and balance.<br />

Barry Riwai: Mango, pineapple, touch of navel orange. Fuller<br />

riper style. Good weight with a bit of warmth. Passionfruit<br />

flavours with acidity tighten the finish.<br />

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />


Tastings | <strong>Summer</strong> Wine Suggestions<br />

Sauvignon Blanc<br />

Seifried Family Winemakers<br />

Old Coach Road Sauvignon Blanc Nelson <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong><br />

Simon Nash: Fuller lemon, some weight. Some sulphur reductive<br />

character, bitter lemon drops, nice fruit, possibly lacks intensity mid palate,<br />

sound expression, and good finish.<br />

Matt Kirby: Softer aromatics, Mandarin and lychee, the palate is textured<br />

and flows nicely with good balance.<br />

Barry Riwai: Fruit with natural expression, Lemon and passionfruit,<br />

understated palate, greywacke fruitiness carries through.<br />

Donaldson Family<br />

Main Divide Sauvignon Blanc<br />

Canterbury <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong><br />

Simon Nash: Mid lemon colour, sweaty<br />

with some matchstick characters, solid<br />

style, quite broad, some complexity with<br />

citrus and texture driven character.<br />

Barry Riwai: Fruit with mineral<br />

expression. Lemon and passionfruit,<br />

understated palate.<br />

Matt Kirby: Appealing strawberry leaf<br />

notes. Good tension to the palate with<br />

mineral or salt spray characters.<br />

Domain Road<br />

Sauvignon Blanc Central<br />

Otago <strong>20</strong>17<br />

Simon Nash: Nice colour, bright with<br />

lime tints, quite peas, asparagus-like on<br />

the nose, quite developed, ditto palate,<br />

green edge fruit spectrum, olives etc.<br />

Matt Kirby: White floral, tropical<br />

melon and lychee, some development<br />

that is held well by good acidity.<br />

Barry Riwai: Red currant, berryish<br />

nose, backed by a leafy tomatillo/cape<br />

gooseberry aroma, very pretty perfume,<br />

medium length and line.<br />

44 <strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Summer</strong> <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>/<strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong>

<strong>Summer</strong> Wine Suggestions | Tastings<br />

Rosé<br />

Bladen<br />

Pinot Rose Marlborough <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong><br />

Simon Nash: Light pale pink bright<br />

almost watery, quite nice, delicate<br />

rouge/face powder, good on palate,<br />

juicy, zesty, good acidity off dry,<br />

quite crunchy.<br />

Matt Kirby: White floral, hair oil<br />

and strawberry. Good balance and<br />

some structure. Well made.<br />

Barry Riwai: Palest pink, array of<br />

berry fruits and candyfloss. Light<br />

but with good intensity of flavour,<br />

would be easy to drink, fine subtle<br />

finish with layers to explore and<br />

entertain.<br />

Hamden Estate<br />

Dry River Terraces Pinot Rose Martinborough <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong><br />

Simon Nash: Almost cherryade colour, light neon bright, raspberry, even<br />

cola/cherryade nose, dry entry but also quite chewy/tannic, solid finish.<br />

Matt Kirby: Super light hued, glossy, strawberry and cherry palate, is full<br />

and appealing with great balance.<br />

Barry Riwai: Vibrant red vermillion. Cherry aromas with dried strawberry.<br />

Good phenolic texture but with some alcohol heat, medium carry.<br />

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />


Tastings | <strong>Summer</strong> Wine Suggestions<br />

Rosé<br />

Domain Road<br />

Pinot Noir Rose Central Otago <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong><br />

Simon Nash: Pink bright some body, strawberry shortcake,<br />

quite nice, off dry, good acidity, fresh, quite lively, Grippy,<br />

good fruit.<br />

Matt Kirby: Attractive, light tuned fruit, melon and<br />

watermelon. Good drive focus.<br />

Barry Riwai: Smokers lollies, blood orange, some flinty<br />

reduction. Dry linear palate, finishes with minerality,<br />

would like more fruit generosity.<br />

Hunter’s<br />

Marlborough MiruMiru<br />

Rose NV<br />

Simon Nash: Nice pale, salmon pink<br />

colour, bright leafy strawberry nose, good<br />

fruit but quite simple, soft, but short.<br />

Matt Kirby: Complex biscuitty, rose, tea<br />

leaf, palate is textured and full.<br />

Barry Riwai: Pretty pink, creamy hint of<br />

berry, peach, creamy meal, tasty grains,<br />

medium length, attractive yeasty finish.<br />

Wild Earth Wines<br />

Pinot Noir Rose Central Otago <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong><br />

Simon Nash: Lively, pink, bright, quite light. Nice lifted strawberry leafy.<br />

Soft on entry, dry impact, not zesty, lively though.<br />

Matt Kirby: Strawberry, cream and cherry aromas with a weighty palate.<br />

With almond meal and good balance.<br />

Barry Riwai: Vibrant colour, rosehip and spice, raspberry, very complex,<br />

bone dry finish with oodles of berry and<br />

apple flavour, very good structure<br />

and soft acidity.<br />

46 <strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Summer</strong> <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>/<strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong>

<strong>Summer</strong> Wine Suggestions | Tastings<br />

Hunter’s<br />

Pinot Noir Rose Marlborough <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong><br />

Simon Nash: Nice lipstick pink, bright, nice nose, dry vinous and nice<br />

balance. Off dry with good juice grip. Long flavour.<br />

Matt Kirby: Some light tones quite lifted aromas, blood orange and<br />

good balance.<br />

Barry Riwai: Closed nose, some reduction. Purely textural palate dry<br />

and lean, but neutral. Reduction gives focus to the palate. Palest pink.<br />

Glover Family Vineyards<br />

Zephyr MKI<br />

Rose Marlborough <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong><br />

Simon Nash: Fresh looking, bright,<br />

light, leafy but quite shy character. Nose<br />

is dry but quite flat fruit.<br />

Matt Kirby: Eucalyptus and spearmint<br />

aromas. Good tension to the palate with<br />

great acidity and dry finish.<br />

Barry Riwai: Raspberry with a slight<br />

blackcurrant edge. Bright sherbet<br />

acidity. Medium concentration. Light<br />

and fresh.<br />

Pask Winery<br />

Instinct Berry Blush Hawkes’<br />

Bay <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong><br />

Simon Nash: Quite full pink, blood<br />

orange colour, quite weighty, pink<br />

grapefruit blood orange nose, nice<br />

balanced palate, quite soft but with<br />

some juicy fruit.<br />

Matt Kirby: Super ripe tropical fruit<br />

characteristics, palate less moderate<br />

intensity with strawberry and fennel.<br />

Barry Riwai: Plum and royal gala<br />

toffee apple, dry full bodied, mid palate.<br />

Hints of blood orange.<br />

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />


Tastings | <strong>Summer</strong> Wine Suggestions<br />

Sparkling<br />

Pernod Ricard Petit Cordon<br />

Brut Prestige NV Marlborough<br />

Simon Nash: Quite full colour, very nice<br />

crunchy, biscuitty, nice autolytic zest.<br />

Attractive, open, bready, elegant, classy<br />

acidity, long finish.<br />

Matt Kirby: Opulent, white floral, and<br />

stone fruit. Some yeasty notes well<br />

balanced, umami.<br />

Barry Riwai: Yeast autolytic,<br />

marmite, almond, hazelnut, very<br />

fine structure but with robust<br />

yeasty umami flavours, very<br />

long, perfect balance.<br />

Hunter’s<br />

MiruMiru<br />

Reserve<br />

Marlborough<br />

<strong>20</strong>15<br />

Simon Nash: Bright,<br />

light/gold, some<br />

brioche/baked pastry.<br />

Matt Kirby: Some<br />

great brioche lees.<br />

Characters good<br />

interesting and great<br />

balance, marmite.<br />

Barry Riwai: yeasty<br />

nose, meal lemon and<br />

crispy croissant. Firm<br />

structure, perhaps needing a touch<br />

more softness, would suit a fish dish with its<br />

lemony acidity.<br />

48 <strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Summer</strong> <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>/<strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong>

<strong>Summer</strong> Wine Suggestions | Tastings<br />

Hunter’s<br />

Marlborough MiruMiru Rose NV<br />

Simon Nash: Nice pale, salmon pink colour, bright leafy strawberry nose,<br />

good fruit but quite simple, soft, but short.<br />

Matt Kirby: Complex biscuitty, rose, tea leaf, palate is textured and full.<br />

Barry Riwai: Pretty pink, creamy hint of berry, peach, creamy meal, tasty<br />

grains, medium length, attractive yeasty finish.<br />

Hihi Wines<br />

Hihi Sparkling Albarino<br />

Gisborne <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong><br />

Hihi Wines<br />

Hihi Gizzy Fizzy<br />

Gisborne <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong><br />

Hihi Wines<br />

Hihi Bubbly As<br />

Gisborne NV<br />

Simon Nash: Mid, bright, lively,<br />

some lemon note, quite short,<br />

lemony up front, zest, but short<br />

simple finish.<br />

Matt Kirby: Clean crisp apricot.<br />

White flower, some sweetness but<br />

balance is achieved.<br />

Barry Riwai: Orange blossom and<br />

green melon, more frizzante style,<br />

fresh fruited but with an attractive<br />

dry finish.<br />

Simon Nash: Full lemon/gold,<br />

bright, though frothy on the rim,<br />

ripe lemony note, quite simple,<br />

lemony, light but juicy and<br />

clean.<br />

Matt Kirby: Bigger style, with<br />

apple skin and honey, broader<br />

palate.<br />

Barry Riwai: Nutty almond<br />

nose, strudel like apple spice a<br />

little hard on the finish.<br />

Simon Nash: Full colour,<br />

gold, bright. Lifted peaches<br />

and cream. Viognier style, ripe<br />

fleshy broad, quite sweet, plum,<br />

simple finish.<br />

Matt Kirby: Lychee, rose petal,<br />

Turkish delight, moderate dry,<br />

will have appeal.<br />

Barry Riwai: Candied lemon<br />

zest, and citrus blossom, dry<br />

finish, toffee and seared lemon.<br />

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />


Advertorial<br />

Sauvignon<br />

Martinborough's<br />

way<br />

Hamden Estate is<br />

located on the Dry<br />

River terraces about<br />

six kilometres south<br />

of Martinborough.<br />

The area was<br />

originally part of Dry River<br />

Station, which was established in<br />

1877. Nearby vineyards include<br />

Luna Blue Rock, Coneys, Grava,<br />

Stonecrop, Cirrus and Arapai.<br />

The river terraces are about<br />

10 metres deep at Hamden<br />

Estate. The terroir typically<br />

comprises river stones and silt,<br />

with a high limestone content<br />

from the surrounding hills. The<br />

site is quite exposed, particularly<br />

to the prevailing north-west<br />

weather, and despite slightly<br />

cooler temperatures than<br />

Martinborough itself, is largely<br />

frost-free. The open aspect<br />

helps keep the canopy dry and<br />

mitigates disease pressure.<br />

David Iggulden is a retired<br />

lawyer, while Jo works in the gas<br />

industry in Wellington. Their lifelong<br />

love of wine and vineyards<br />

developed on the back of their<br />

travels in Europe and grew<br />

through friends and wine clubs.<br />

David completed studies in<br />

viticulture and winemaking at the<br />

Eastern Institute of Technology,<br />

ostensibly as an extension of his<br />

interest in wine and winemaking,<br />

rather than in preparation for<br />

entering the industry.<br />

The purchase of the vineyard<br />

site came about almost<br />

by chance. A weekend in<br />

Martinborough led to the<br />

discovery and purchase of <strong>20</strong><br />

acres of bare land from a local<br />

sheep farmer. This marked<br />

the start of a near continual<br />

commute between their home<br />

and work in Hawera and the<br />

vineyard in Martinborough.<br />

David and Jo were well<br />

supported by family and friends<br />

in these early years as they<br />

developed the vineyard. The<br />

occasional mismatch between<br />

the romantic notion of life on the<br />

vineyard and the hard reality of<br />

working in the heat and stony<br />

ground was cured with good<br />

humour, good music and good<br />

wine.<br />

Today, the vineyard canopy<br />

totals about three hectares. The<br />

initial vines were established in<br />

<strong>20</strong>01/<strong>20</strong>02, with the balance<br />

planted in <strong>20</strong>09. There is a<br />

large section of pinot noir, with<br />

smaller plantings of chardonnay,<br />

sauvignon blanc and pinot gris.<br />

The vineyard also includes a tiny<br />

amount of Riesling, and although<br />

it tends to struggle on our site, it<br />

produces extremely good wine.<br />

Hamden Estate is an<br />

accredited sustainable vineyard.<br />

50 <strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Summer</strong> <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>/<strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong>

Advertorial<br />

Jo and David have applied<br />

sustainable practices from<br />

day one – from a light-touch<br />

approach to spraying through to<br />

using sheep to control undervine<br />

weeds and leaf plucking. They<br />

also use seaweed teas as foliar<br />

fertiliser and conduct regular<br />

soil testing to confirm that they<br />

are having a positive effect on<br />

the vineyard. The outcome is a<br />

minimal intervention approach<br />

that produces very clean fruit.<br />

The wines have been made<br />

at Margrain Vineyard by Strat<br />

Canning for the past twelve<br />

years. David and Strat have<br />

a great working relationship,<br />

discussing styles prior to<br />

each vintage and making<br />

subtle tweaks to suit fruit and<br />

production. Strat is an innovative<br />

winemaker and has been happy<br />

to work with David’s penchant<br />

for experimentation. Strat also<br />

tolerates David operating as<br />

Chief Apprentice during vintage.<br />

This year’s sauvignon blanc<br />

is a great example of the<br />

complimentary approach<br />

enjoyed by Strat and David. Jo<br />

and David had made a trip to<br />

the Peljesac Peninsula in Croatia<br />

earlier in the year. They came<br />

across a tiny winery feeding<br />

grapes through a crusher on<br />

the side of the road, with the<br />

must chilled with a couple of<br />

bags of ice. Using a mix of sign<br />

language and broken English,<br />

David was able to establish that<br />

the aromatic grapes received<br />

up to seven days skin contact.<br />

Several tastings confirmed that<br />

the wine did not lack for finesse<br />

or character. On his return to<br />

Martinborough, David discussed<br />

the idea with Strat. Not wishing to<br />

go down the orange wine road,<br />

they agreed that an overnight<br />

soak on the skins would be a<br />

good start. The result is, of course,<br />

the wine that features this month.<br />

This wine might be recognised<br />

as a little closer to the traditional<br />

New Zealand Sauvignon<br />

overlaid with Martinborough<br />

characteristics. It shows<br />

passionfruit and pineapple on<br />

the nose continuing through to<br />

the palate without any harsh<br />

acidity. To have our wine stand<br />

alongside the multi-trophy<br />

winning Seifried Sauvignon Blanc<br />

is somewhat humbling.<br />

Jo and David have been<br />

resident on the Vineyard since<br />

<strong>20</strong>09. They are in the process of<br />

establishing accommodation<br />

on site so that they can host<br />

visitors amongst the vines. There<br />

is a cellar door with tastings<br />

available most weekends and<br />

every day during the Christmas<br />

period. David likes nothing better<br />

than a conversation about wine,<br />

preferably with a glass in hand.<br />

He can also tell you the story<br />

behind the distinctive paper doll<br />

label and elucidate on the merits<br />

of living in a house with three<br />

daughters.<br />

Address: 214 Dry River Road<br />

Martinborough<br />

Available on line:<br />

www.hamdendenestate.co.nz<br />

e-mail:info@hamdenestate.co.nz<br />

Wines available online,at the<br />

cellar door (open weekends<br />

and by appointment) and<br />

Martinborough Wine Merchants.<br />

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />


Food | Vic's Food N Wine...<br />

Vic Williams<br />

Vic Williams is a seasoned wine and food writer who<br />

has spent the last 25 years communicating about<br />

their combinations in print and on radio.<br />

Time to relax<br />

The sun is shining,<br />

the working year is<br />

behind us and the<br />

lengthening days<br />

suggest a twilight walk<br />

followed by a relaxing<br />

glass of something cool and<br />

undemanding before dinner.<br />

That is the promise of summer,<br />

and after a spring induced by<br />

climate change to deliver even<br />

more unpredictability than usual,<br />

it’s quite a relief.<br />

Now is the time to get creative<br />

about our evening meals,<br />

trying new recipes that may<br />

well become staples in the<br />

year ahead accompanied<br />

by wines that are new to our<br />

repertoire. Statistics tells us that<br />

most shoppers, confronted<br />

by the bewildering number of<br />

labels on the shelves, stick with<br />

those they know. That’s a shame.<br />

Winemakers are an adventurous<br />

lot, and because our industry<br />

is relatively young they are<br />

constantly experimenting, with<br />

often-exciting results.<br />

As consumers, we can support<br />

this initiative, but venturing<br />

further afield we can also add<br />

imported styles that have a long<br />

history in their countries of origin<br />

but are not commonly seen on<br />

our own tables.<br />

The fact that you are reading<br />

this magazine shows that you<br />

have a keen interest in the<br />

product of the grape, and are<br />

well aware that it is the only<br />

beverage specifically designed<br />

to accompany good, honest<br />

food. That is the premise of<br />

this column, but as always, the<br />

matches outlined on these<br />

pages are only suggestions. Real<br />

joy is to be found in discovering<br />

your own ‘perfect combo’.<br />

Have fun!<br />

Mirin-grilled carrot sticks<br />

in nasturtiuM leaVes<br />

Wine match: Méthode Traditionnelle sparkling wine<br />

This idea for a pre-lunch or<br />

dinner nibble was born from a<br />

desire to find a new use for the<br />

prolific nasturtium plants that<br />

occupy a corner of the garden.<br />

Trim carrots to form straightsided<br />

batons and place in<br />

boiling water for three or four<br />

minutes, until slightly softened.<br />

Cut each baton lengthwise<br />

into four sticks, toss in olive oil<br />

and mirin (sweet Japanese rice<br />

wine) and grill briefly to lightly<br />

caramelise. Smear a<br />

thin layer of miso paste<br />

onto the underside of<br />

nasturtium leaves and<br />

roll each one around<br />

a carrot stick. It is the<br />

miso that makes the<br />

dish work so well with<br />

a yeasty Méthode.<br />

Made from fermented<br />

soy beans, it has an<br />

earthiness that sits<br />

perfectly with the wine.<br />

52 <strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Summer</strong> <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>/<strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong>

Vic's Food N Wine... | Food<br />

tea-sMoked salMon With hoMe-Made<br />

pita toasts<br />

Wine match: Pinot Gris<br />

To hot-smoke skin-on salmon,<br />

clear it carefully of its pin bones<br />

using tweezers or needle-nosed<br />

pliers, then marinate it flesh side<br />

down for a couple of hours in a<br />

splash each of soy sauce, mirin<br />

and Shao Xing (Chinese rice<br />

wine). Line a wok with a double<br />

layer of foil and add a couple<br />

of tablespoons each of white<br />

rice (uncooked) and tea leaves<br />

(we used Lapsang Souchong),<br />

plus a teaspoon of raw sugar<br />

and about half the marinade<br />

liquid. Heat on high until smoke<br />

begins to appear, then place the<br />

salmon, skin side down, on a rack<br />

over the top. Cover and seal the<br />

gap between wok and lid with<br />

rolled tea-towels (use old ones –<br />

they’ll go brown). Smoke for three<br />

minutes, turn the<br />

heat off and leave<br />

the lid on for a<br />

further four or five<br />

minutes. Serve<br />

warm or at room<br />

temperature with<br />

grilled triangles<br />

of split pita<br />

bread. This dish<br />

works well with a<br />

smoky, oak-aged<br />

Chardonnay, but<br />

it is a standout with<br />

a dryish Pinot Gris. If<br />

the back label doesn’t<br />

divulge the sweetness level,<br />

buy from a good wine shop<br />

and ask for one with a residual<br />

sugar level under 8gm/L.<br />

hoMe-Made<br />

pappardelle pasta<br />

With rocket and<br />

Walnut pesto<br />

Wine match: Chardonnay<br />

Making pasta at home using a<br />

hand-rolled machine or, if you are<br />

really keen, a rolling pin is simple<br />

and satisfying, but the dish will work<br />

just as well with a shop-bought<br />

dried style. It is the pesto, made by<br />

pulsing rocket leaves, garlic, walnuts,<br />

Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese and<br />

extra-virgin olive oil, that provides<br />

the wine link. Chardonnay that<br />

has been fermented and matured<br />

in French oak barriques (225-litre<br />

barrels) develops a nuttiness that<br />

is perfectly complemented by the<br />

walnuts, while the faintly hot rocket<br />

brings out the wine’s fruit acids.<br />

We poured a Villa Maria Reserve<br />

Gisborne Barrique <strong>20</strong>15, but any<br />

good oak-aged example will do the<br />

business.<br />

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />


Food | Vic's Food N Wine...<br />

Beef and laMB MeatBalls With Baked VegetaBles<br />

Wine match: Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot blend<br />

Adding about one-third lamb mince to<br />

the lean beef helped these meatballs hold<br />

together, although we still encouraged the<br />

process by stirring in a beaten egg and<br />

a judicious sprinkling of breadcrumbs.<br />

Spice was provided by ground cumin and<br />

cinnamon, chopped and pre-fried red onion<br />

and garlic plus a handful of finely chopped<br />

parsley and Vietnamese mint. Browned in<br />

oil, the meatballs were folded through a<br />

melange of capsicums, red onion wedges<br />

and thickly sliced parboiled potatoes before<br />

the whole combo was sprinkled with sweet<br />

paprika, seasoned and roasted. The dish<br />

works with almost any robust red, but it is<br />

particularly successful with the blackcurrant<br />

and sweet spice characters of a Cabernet<br />

Sauvignon/Merlot blend. Cabernet’s upfront<br />

fruit is accentuated by the capsicums, while<br />

the meatballs are cosseted by the savoury<br />

warmth of fully ripe Merlot. All boxes ticked!<br />

spicy eggplant<br />

Wine match: Primitivo<br />

Eggplant, cut into thick wedges<br />

and browned in oil, was tossed<br />

in a cautious amount of Harissa<br />

and brown rice malt syrup, plus<br />

seasoning. The result was flavourloaded,<br />

sticky unctuousness that<br />

we discovered was perfectly<br />

matched by the gutsy, sweetedged<br />

flavours of Primitivo – the<br />

Italian grape that, it has been<br />

proved, is named Zinfandel in the<br />

US. The eggplant is addictively<br />

delicious on its own, but offallovers<br />

could emphasise its<br />

rusticity by serving it alongside<br />

thick slices of pink-cooked lamb’s<br />

fry. The Primitivo we opened<br />

was from Domodo in the Italian<br />

province of Puglia, situated in<br />

the ‘heel’ of this boot-shaped<br />

country.<br />

54 <strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Summer</strong> <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>/<strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong>


Guylian the world’s favourite Belgian chocolates.<br />

The perfect match for any occasion.<br />

The World’s Favourite Belgian Chocolates

Restaurant Reviews | Feature<br />



By Joan Gestro<br />

The new Clarence<br />

Hotel and Bistro is<br />

now situated where<br />

once was the historic<br />

Tauranga Post Office, a<br />

beautiful building with a<br />

gracious frontage, a rotunda on<br />

one side serving as a popular bar<br />

area in the summer.<br />

The Clarence Hotel and Bistro<br />

now boasts two chic and funky<br />

restaurants, fine accommodation<br />

upstairs with 10 individually<br />

designed suites. The symbolic<br />

representation of the Bee<br />

comes from the existing tiles<br />

on the roof, manufactured in<br />

Marseille, France. Government<br />

buildings the world over have<br />

commissioned tiles such as these<br />

and now their adventure has<br />

come a long way to rest above<br />

our heads.<br />

We dined in the Bistro, we<br />

found it interesting seeing chefs<br />

preparing fine cuisine. We<br />

were lucky to have David, our<br />

French waiter, with his extensive<br />

knowledge matched our three<br />

courses with the right wine.<br />

The Bistro serves innovative and<br />

classic dishes, if you are looking<br />

for a more casual fare, try the Iki<br />

Bar, whose staff go out of their<br />

way to make you feel welcome;<br />

surrounded by music, cocktails,<br />

wines, craft beers and Southern<br />

Asian Street food to delight your<br />

appetite.<br />

Our First course:<br />

Colin’s choice of Pork Schmaltz<br />

with Love Rosie’s Bread was<br />

matched with Nautilus Rose<br />

<strong>20</strong>15, a sparkling wine from<br />

Marlborough- Berry fruit and<br />

Brioche notes. This sparkling<br />

wine cleans your palate for the<br />

next course.<br />

My choice of Anchovies,<br />

matched with Dry Riesling<br />

Spatlese “Fromm” <strong>20</strong>18 from<br />

Marlborough, with fresh acidity to<br />

cut the saltiness of the Anchovies,<br />

which were tender, delicious, not<br />

too salty, a product of Italy.<br />

Our Second Course:<br />

Colin chose Consommé, his dish<br />

matched with Arneis <strong>20</strong>15 Hawkes<br />

Bay lime and honey aromas with<br />

a dry finish to work really well<br />

with the strong aromas of the<br />

Consommé dish.<br />

My choice was Truffle Risotto<br />

matched with Harakeke<br />

Chardonnay <strong>20</strong>15 from Nelson,<br />

Nectarine, peach and oak<br />

aromas nice texture to work with<br />

my delicious creamy risotto.<br />

Our Third Course<br />

Colin’s choice of Coq au Vin was<br />

matched with a Central Otago<br />

Tekapoto Estate <strong>20</strong>13 Pinot Noir.<br />

Nice tannins flavours to work<br />

with the poultry dish. A small<br />

winery with a fantastic philosophy<br />

around the wine. This wine is<br />

a multi-awarded world best at<br />

London’s IWSC.<br />

My choice Goat Ragu, I asked<br />

David our wine buff at Clarence restaurant.<br />

for a small portion which came<br />

smothered in pappardelle with<br />

not enough of the delicious<br />

Ragu. Still a generous portion<br />

and delicious. David matched<br />

this dish with Waiheke Island Man<br />

O’ War-Dreadnought <strong>20</strong>16 Syrah,<br />

Intense Cherry and Liquorice<br />

flavours and tannins to balance<br />

the Caribbean spiced Ragu.<br />

We enjoyed the experience with<br />

delicious food good staff who<br />

made you feel welcome and help<br />

in any way to make our evening a<br />

great experience. We will certainly<br />

be back as they also offer A Five<br />

Course Tasting menu with wine<br />

match. Can’t wait to enjoy this<br />

with a bunch of friends.<br />

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />


How best to subscribe to every<br />

issue of wine NZ<br />

magazine.<br />

Go to...<br />

Isubscribe.co.nz<br />

And search Wine NZ.<br />

Or write to<br />

Wine NZ magazine<br />

P.O.Box 13257.<br />

Tauranga 3141.<br />

Annual sub.. $39.60<br />

Two year sub..$75.<strong>20</strong>

New Zealand Cellar Door<br />

of the Year <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong><br />

We are delighted to have won the inaugural Cellar Door of the Year Award at<br />

the New Zealand Wine Awards <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>.<br />

Come and enjoy the full food and wine experience for yourself at the home of Church Road.<br />

We have a range of different, immersive and interactive experiences available for visitors.<br />

Enjoy Responsibly<br />

150 Church Road, Taradale, Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand<br />

info@churchroad.co.nz | +6468338225 | www.church-road.com<br />

See our website for opening hours, experiences and restaurant bookings.



Thank you<br />

Thanks to the generous support of everyone involved, this years auction<br />

was a roaring success. We raised a total of $241,100.<br />

With the backing of our wonderful group of wineries and sponsors, all the money<br />

raised at auction goes directly to Cranford Hospice. Thank you all!<br />

hbwineauction<br />

@hawkesbaywineauction hawkesbaywineauction.co.nz<br />

mardigras<br />


LIVING<br />

Hawke’s Bay<br />

mardigras<br />


Food & Wine Events | Food<br />

Food & Wine Events<br />

➽<br />

➽<br />

➽<br />

➽<br />

➽<br />

➽<br />

➽<br />

➽<br />

➽<br />

➽<br />

➽<br />

➽<br />

➽<br />

Marlborough Wine and Food<br />

(February 8 th <strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong>)<br />

Whitianga Scallop Festival<br />

(September 21 st <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>)<br />

Toast Martinborough<br />

(November 17 th <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>)<br />

Waiheke Wine and Food Festival.<br />

(May not be held in <strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong>)<br />

Hawkes Bay Wine and Food<br />

(June)<br />

Graggy Range<br />

(November)<br />

Taste of Auckland<br />

(October 31 st – November 3 rd )<br />

Hokitika Wildfoods Festival<br />

(March 7 th <strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong>)<br />

Wellington on a Plate two weeks<br />

(August)<br />

Bluff Oysters Food Festival<br />

(May 23 rd <strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong>)<br />

Central Otago Pinot Noir<br />

Celebration<br />

(January 30th- February 1 st <strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong>)<br />

North Canterbury Wine and<br />

Food Festival (Waipara Valley)<br />

(8 th March <strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong>)<br />

Pinot Noir New Zealand <strong>20</strong>21<br />

Christchurch<br />

(February 23 rd – 25 th <strong>20</strong>21)<br />

These are mostly annual events with dates<br />

being as accurate as possible. Please Google<br />

for updates as they are posted by organizers<br />

of events.<br />

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />


Feature | Tripping Around the Vines<br />

TRiPPinG AROUnD<br />

THE VinEs<br />

By Joan Gestro<br />


Our two-and-a-half-hour trip up the East Coast, after<br />

leaving Wellington, over the windy Rimutakas, was<br />

rewarded by the quaint town of Martinborough.<br />

Martinborough is now a boutique town with<br />

Restaurants, bars and cafes, all very well stocked<br />

for the foodie. When we arrived in the town centre,<br />

the place was buzzing with people relaxing in the<br />

late afternoon sun over a glass of wine and nibbles<br />

or early dinner. A very vibrant little town indeed.<br />

Residents commute to Wellington, for work every day,<br />

a bit of a trek over the Rimutakas, but there is a train<br />

service that many choose instead of driving.<br />


In the heart of Martinborough’s wine region, you will<br />

find Margrain Vineyard. Their Vineyard and Winery<br />

Tours take you through the vine to wine process and<br />

the history of Martinborough wine making, tasting as<br />

you go of course! Tour and Platter package cost is<br />

$49.00 pp.<br />

Margrain offer villa style accommodation, set<br />

amongst the vines. Lovely, comfortable and<br />

quiet. Continental breakfast is complementary; of<br />

preserved fruit, cereal and milk. Quite good as the<br />

accommodation was very reasonable and a bonus<br />

of waking up to a view of the vineyard.<br />

LOCATION: Ponatahi Road<br />

Martinborough 5792<br />

We made our way up the coast to the wonderful<br />

Hawkes’ Bay where we stayed for a couple of<br />

62 <strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Summer</strong> <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>/<strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong>

Tripping Around the Vines | Feature<br />

nights at the Woolshed Apartments situated in the<br />

township of Havelock North, there is so much to<br />

experience in this wonderful region. The township is<br />

full of colour from the fresh hanging baskets full of<br />

blooms. Beautiful, colourful and very well presented.<br />

It’s obvious that the business owners, the council<br />

and locals are a ‘house proud’ lot.<br />

Our friends, having moved from Wellington, tell us<br />

they have seen a lot of change in the last 25 years.<br />


This boutique vineyard is five minutes from the<br />

village of Havelock North, situated on the Te Mata<br />

hills providing stunning views for the visitor, a perfect<br />

situation to spend an hour or two over lunch and a<br />

wine tasting.<br />

Black Barn offers luxury accommodation of<br />

seventeen properties. Not cheap but absolutely<br />

unique and recognized amongst the very best<br />

available in New Zealand.<br />

The Black Barn Growers Market is held every<br />

Saturday morning in the summer months where you<br />

will find many mouth-watering goodies.<br />

There is an amphitheatre for entertainment, which<br />

has been described by internationally recognized<br />

singers as the best outdoor venue in New Zealand.<br />

The whole amphitheatre is surrounded by 50-yearold<br />

Muscatel grapes. Black Barn Rose <strong>20</strong>18<br />

Vintage, a most enjoyable drop indeed on a warm<br />

afternoon tripping through the vines.<br />

Their <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong> Vintage is now available on line at<br />

www.@blackbarn.com, $23 per bottle. Enjoy!<br />

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />


Feature | Tripping Around the Vines<br />

Photos show Winery, Restaurant and Tasting room.<br />


The Giants Winery complex is home to the<br />

Cellardoor and the Terroir Restaurant. Craggy<br />

Range is situated in a premium wine growing area<br />

of Havelock North.<br />

Nestled among the romantic vines are selfcontained<br />

boutique cottages. Craggy range was<br />

established in 1997 by Terry Peabody and Steve<br />

Smith. The vineyard gets its name from the Range<br />

that almost surrounds the area. We were told Dame<br />

Kiri, amongst other celebrities, had given sold out<br />

performances in the amphitheatre, set amongst a<br />

man-made lake, with impressive bigger than life size<br />

animal sculptures.<br />

We enjoyed a wine tasting by a superb official wine<br />

taster who served us; giving us the background of<br />

Gimblett Gravels and information on each variety<br />

that we tasted. Gimblett gravels is a sub-brand and<br />

boasts a separate winegrowers association, hence<br />

a separate label on the Craggy Range bottles we<br />

purchased. The Gimblett Gravels brand combines<br />

64 <strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Summer</strong> <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>/<strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong>

Tripping Around the Vines | Feature<br />

the French concept of terroir with modern day<br />

thinking; to define, protect and market wine.<br />

The district is 800 hectares strictly determined<br />

by gravelly soils, laid down by the old Ngaruroro<br />

River, which were exposed in the 1860’s. (More<br />

of this in our next <strong>WineNZ</strong> issue, as we visit and<br />

discuss how the gravels grapes produce superior<br />

award-winning wine.)<br />

As our focus is on wine and its production<br />

methods, we were most impressed by the pristine<br />

vineyards and surroundings, the architecture<br />

fitting in with the surrounding area, and<br />

professionalism of all the staff of Graggy Range, is<br />

indicative of very proud owners/caretakers.<br />

We purchased a Rose Gimblett Gravels and a<br />

Merlot Gimblet Gravels, which will not take us too<br />

long to enjoy. Havelock North’s Craggy Range’s<br />

rugged vastness and the unique history of its<br />

Gimblett Gravels and delicious wines left us with<br />

lasting memories. Lovely place to visit.<br />

LOCATION: 253 Waimarama Road<br />

Havelock North. New Zealand<br />

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />


Feature | Adelaide Throws a Party<br />

Adelaide<br />

throws a party<br />

DENNIS & ROSAMUND KNILL head across the ditch<br />

to visit one of Australia’s most acclaimed food and<br />

wine regions.<br />

The foodie buzz is present throughout Adelaide. This group is enjoying the<br />

vibe at Plant 4, Bowden.<br />

We're in<br />

Adelaide<br />

for Tasting<br />

Australia’s<br />

annual food<br />

and wine<br />

celebration. Held every April<br />

eager foodies are drawn in from<br />

all over Australia to experience<br />

this extraordinary 10-day festival<br />

where restaurants, producers and<br />

caterers converge to put on an<br />

array of food and related events<br />

with global appeal.<br />

The idea started <strong>20</strong>-years ago<br />

as a simple food harvest put on<br />

by the locals at Botanic Park.<br />

Such was its success that it was<br />

moved to Elder Park and in <strong>20</strong>18<br />

the festival organisers moved the<br />

venue again to the picturesque<br />

surrounds of Victoria Square in<br />

the centre of the city.<br />

66 <strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Summer</strong> <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>/<strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong>

Adelaide Throws a Party | Feature<br />

Dinner at sunset at Kangaroo Head on Kangaroo Island.<br />

Our itinerary makes it sound<br />

blissfully easy, a little too easy.<br />

Like most tourists we started our<br />

culinary journey with a leisurely<br />

stroll through South Australia’s<br />

most-visited tourist attraction,<br />

the 150-year-old Central Markets<br />

located in the heart of Adelaide’s<br />

eat street district.<br />

The two-acre open courtyard<br />

is all under one roof clamorous<br />

with cries of 250 food sellers all<br />

eager to share their knowledge<br />

and bounty of delights with<br />

an enthusiastic food loving<br />

audience. But most striking was<br />

the aromas and smells of fresh<br />

fruits and vegetables, seafood,<br />

artisan cheeses, meats and<br />

smallgoods, breads and pastries<br />

that guaranteed to excite the<br />

taste buds. All that marred our<br />

happiness was the fact that<br />

we could not take away the<br />

temptations set before us. For the<br />

lucky locals this marketplace is<br />

an integral part of city life with<br />

seasonal fresh produce reflected<br />

in the regions cuisine.<br />

Wineries in the Adelaide Hills make for great day trips from the city.<br />

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />


Feature | Adelaide Throws a Party<br />

It’s nearly 7pm on a warm<br />

autumn’s evening and time<br />

to have some fun with some<br />

fabulous food as well. The DJ is<br />

entertaining the party-like crowd<br />

who are eating and queuing for<br />

a smorgasbord of possibilities<br />

served from stalls by some of<br />

the city’s best restaurants. For<br />

an atmosphere of less frenzy<br />

and with high expectations we<br />

make our way to the long line<br />

of glasshouses all of which are<br />

decorated with imaginative flair<br />

and a hint of decadence<br />

Everyone is happy, we talk easily<br />

to strangers across the table, the<br />

wine is flowing and we eagerly<br />

pursue the four-course menu<br />

themed “Kitchen Fire” cooked by<br />

a line-up of celebrity chefs using<br />

smoke, coal, flame and grill and<br />

wielding skillets with practised<br />

dexterity.<br />

The following morning we rise<br />

early for a chartered flight to<br />

Kangaroo Island with forty other<br />

enthusiastic compatriots. After<br />

landing at the recently revamped<br />

Kingscote Airport we board a<br />

coach to be transferred for a<br />

long lunch at Sunset Food and<br />

Wine, a clifftop oasis located at<br />

the top of a hill with spectacular<br />

views overlooking Eastern Cove in<br />

Penneshaw.<br />

The cuisine under the direction<br />

of resident chef Jack Ingram<br />

and guest chef Jacqui Challinor<br />

of Sydney fame showed there<br />

is after all no master chef who<br />

can perform to the utmost with<br />

anything less than the freshest,<br />

highest quality ingredients. The<br />

result was a Mediterranean feast<br />

washed down with equally superb<br />

wine.<br />

After swapping stories with our<br />

new found friends for several hours<br />

it was time to re-board the coach<br />

and enough time stopping off for<br />

a nightcap at Kangaroo Island<br />

Spirits, one of South Australia’s<br />

most celebrated boutique spirit<br />

producers. Jon Lark guided us<br />

through his quirky cellar door with<br />

its diverse range of award winning<br />

gin, whiskey, vodka and liqueurs<br />

which we were urged to toss back<br />

at regular intervals.<br />

Food to write home about being served at Hains and Co, Adelaide.<br />

68 <strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Summer</strong> <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>/<strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong>

Adelaide Throws a Party | Feature<br />

Locally made spirits are almost as popular as accompaniments for glorious food as wine in Adelaide.<br />

Our Kangaroo Island interlude<br />

allowed us the realization that the<br />

best of times and the best of food<br />

are often to be found at remote<br />

locations.<br />

Welcome to McLaren Vale. A<br />

forty-minute leisurely drive south<br />

of Adelaide suburbia submits to a<br />

low swell of undulating vineyards<br />

dotted with the odd quaint<br />

cottage and rolling expanses of<br />

vines.<br />

The gorges, flats and climate<br />

remind us of the winelands of<br />

Southern France. Warm sunny<br />

days and gentle sea breezes off<br />

the Gulf of St Vincent to temper<br />

the high temperatures of summer.<br />

First stop overlooking Encounter<br />

Bay is Victor Harbour. A heady<br />

combination of pine and sea<br />

spray this once whaling town is<br />

a popular little seaside village<br />

boasting sun, surf, clear turquoise<br />

waters and stunning views.<br />

After a picnic lunch we visit<br />

Gemtree Winery for wine tasting<br />

with a platter to match. Then<br />

off to The Cube at D’Areberg<br />

Winery for another wine tasting<br />

and a guided visit through the<br />

museum. Often referred to as<br />

Willy Wonker’s Factory or the Mad<br />

Hatters House, the Cube is more<br />

than a tasting room but rather<br />

a place that cements McLaren<br />

Vale’s reputation as not just a wine<br />

destination.<br />

Barossa Valley with its <strong>20</strong>0<br />

wineries and 800 growers has<br />

been so well defined as Australia’s<br />

premier wine-producing region<br />

it’s tempting to think that’s all it<br />

has to offer. That may be enough<br />

for some, but in fact there’s<br />

much more to this 30-kilometre<br />

valley that never fails to surprise,<br />

driven by its soil, climate, people,<br />

seasons and of course the<br />

grape vines. When one thinks<br />

shiraz, cabernet sauvignon and<br />

grenache all the big names are<br />

here, Jacob’s Creek, Penfolds, St<br />

Hallett, Seppeltfield, Wolf Blass and<br />

Yalumba are a few that come to<br />

mind.<br />

Today we are touring the<br />

Barossa with John Baldwin, a most<br />

hospitable, sometimes hilarious<br />

and charming guide and owner<br />

of Barossa Daimler Tours. John<br />

immediately understood why we<br />

wanted as much as we could<br />

get from this region so visits to<br />

Seppeltfield Gin Distillery and<br />

an unforgettable lunch at Vino<br />

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />


Feature | Adelaide Throws a Party<br />

Lokal by chef Ryan Edwards and<br />

then onto Jacob’s Creek for some<br />

serious wine tasting. We sampled<br />

two exceptionally priced reds from<br />

their new Double Barrel range. The<br />

first a <strong>20</strong>15 shiraz that displayed<br />

great structure and texture with an<br />

abundance of concentrated fruit<br />

and <strong>20</strong>15 cabernet sauvignon a<br />

full bodied red that was rich and<br />

satisfying in flavour and rounded<br />

off with a smooth soft tannin finish.<br />

Back in the city a must-doexperience<br />

is Adelaide’s best<br />

known and favourite beach. A<br />

<strong>20</strong>-minute tram ride from the city<br />

is Glenelg, Adelaide’s premier<br />

seaside destination and home<br />

to some of South Australia’s most<br />

expensive real estate. Synonymous<br />

with white sandy beaches, wide<br />

ocean views and stunning<br />

sunsets, not to mention its vibrant<br />

restaurant and café brigade.<br />

It’s also worth building up an<br />

appetite for a walk along Gouger<br />

Street, Adelaide’s undisputed eat<br />

street and another great place to<br />

start a culinary tour. Greek, Italian,<br />

Asian communities have long<br />

had gastronomic influences in this<br />

centrally located area accessible<br />

by foot bringing a wealth of<br />

alfresco dining with its world class<br />

restaurants, bars and cafes.<br />

With so much to see and do<br />

Adelaide deserves more than<br />

a week. With all its culture, taste,<br />

art and beauty we visited all the<br />

sights, tasted some exceptional<br />

cellar doors and sampled some<br />

exquisite cuisine raising our<br />

glasses along the way.<br />

As we fly out, the city in all its<br />

glory is revealed once again. With<br />

so much to see and do Adelaide<br />

deserves more than 6-days. No<br />

doubt about it.<br />


Patrons soaking up the atmosphere in one of the bars in Gilbert Place, Adelaide.<br />

Getting there:<br />

air New Zealand have five direct<br />

flights a week. Log onto<br />

www.airnewzealand.co.nz<br />

Where to stay:<br />

hilton adelaide<br />

www.adelaide.hilton.com<br />

Best eats:<br />

Concubine (asian fusion),<br />

press Food and wine (Modern<br />

australian), shobosho (Japanese),<br />

Nido (Italian), africola (south<br />

african), Louca’s (seafood)<br />

Places of interest:<br />

the Bradman Collection, Botanic<br />

Gardens, Colonel Light’s Lookout,<br />

Carrick hill, Mount Lofty summit,<br />

ayres house, aboriginal Cultural<br />

Centre, art Gallery, st peters<br />

Cathedral, railway Museum,<br />

adelaide oval, haigh’s Chocolates,<br />

National wine Centre<br />

Tours:<br />

Barossa Daimler tours<br />

www.barossadaimlertours.com.au<br />

Best shopping:<br />

rundle street Mall, King william<br />

street<br />

Background reading:<br />

adelaide a brief history by Kathyn<br />

Gargett and susan Marsden, south<br />

australia Lonely planet by Denis<br />

o’Bryne<br />

Other information:<br />

south australia tourism<br />

Commission<br />

www.southaustralia.com<br />

Pictures: South Australian Tourism<br />

Commission.<br />

70 <strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Summer</strong> <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>/<strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong>

Wines of Distinction<br />

Celebrate the<br />

best of the season<br />

with Palliser’s<br />

bubbly duo<br />

It’s hard to choose between<br />

The Griffin and The Rose,<br />

so we recommend getting both!<br />

Delectable bubbles that<br />

make any day an occasion.<br />

palliserwine<br />

Available at specialist wine stores<br />

& directly from palliser estate<br />


Feature | Sicilian Wine - History in the Making<br />

Sicilian<br />

Wine -<br />

history in<br />

the Making<br />

By Joan gestro<br />

Marsala, on the eastern coast<br />

of Sicily, was on our itinerary<br />

for a visit during a recent<br />

trip, to a country of very<br />

fine horticulture, climate<br />

and soil type, perfect for<br />

grapes, olives, vegetables, lemons and fruit of all<br />

description.<br />

The Alagna family winery, into its fourth<br />

generation of ownership, is a master at fortified<br />

wines. Antonio Alagna showed us through and<br />

didn’t hesitate to lay out a tasting range for us<br />

to sample and of course purchase if we wished.<br />

The VINeYARDS<br />

Technologies and land conservaTion<br />

The company owns about 50 hectares of land<br />

in the municipalities of Marsala, Mazara, Trapani<br />

and Selemi. In these areas the vines necessary<br />

for the production of its wines are cultivated:<br />

Zibibbo, Nero d’avola, Grillo, Catarrato, Inzolia<br />

and Damaschino. These are all local grapes<br />

that can only be grown in Sicily and need<br />

a special microclimate that is only found in<br />

the province of Trapani. The company uses a<br />

mixture of traditional and modern techniques<br />

for the production of these grapes. For example,<br />

this one started using mechanical collection<br />

systems, but it also uses ancient systems like<br />

the saplings. Furthermore, the entire production<br />

is done trying to minimize the environmental<br />

impact and preserve the natural heritage of the<br />

area.<br />

The CeLLAR<br />

respecT for TradiTion and qualiTy<br />

Currently, the company is equipped for the<br />

production and storage of wines that are<br />

produced in the vineyards of the area and<br />

the aging and bottling process is also carried<br />

72 <strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Summer</strong> <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>/<strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong>

Sicilian Wine - History in the Making | Feature<br />

out. The company has a capacity of 50,000<br />

hectolitres of wine distributed in various types<br />

of containers: steel, cement, fiberglass or large<br />

wooden barrels. Furthermore, it is possible<br />

to see a wide range of machinery used for<br />

the production and refinement of the final<br />

product, including a large and sophisticated<br />

grape pressing system that is necessary for<br />

the production of fine quality wines. Marsala<br />

wine is one of the main products of the Alagna<br />

company.<br />

LANNI’ (DOC sicilia) is a smooth blend of Nero<br />

d’avola, Syrah and Merlot, aged in oak casks<br />

used to store fortified wines, in order to obtain<br />

tobacco and cherry frangrances.<br />

Grapes are picked late in the season to create<br />

a dark colour and smooth taste. The wine has<br />

10gr of residual sugar and 14% in alcohol. It is<br />

not filtered to have even more flavours.<br />

The Lanni’ name is short, easy to remember<br />

and pronounce. It is the contraction of names<br />

(A-LA-NI-A) It’s a blend and a name that only<br />

we make.<br />

It must be a fIrst, anywhere on earth!?<br />

Concept: Kosho fully embraces the growing<br />

fusion gastronomic culture by linking the<br />

ancient Sicilian winemaking tradition with<br />

Japanese cuisine. The delicate and fruity tones<br />

of this wine made with a blend of Sicilian<br />

grapes, perfectly matches with the umami<br />

flavours of the main Japanese dishes (Sushi,<br />

Sashimi, Temaki, Hosomaki)<br />

It Is the fIrst wIne for sushI In ItaLy<br />

Name: it comes from KOSHU, a typical grape of<br />

Japan. But Kosho is easier to remember.<br />

Alcohol: 12%<br />

Grape (white) blend of inzolia, damaschino<br />

and catarratto, grown in our vineyards in Sicily.<br />

Aging: 3 months in steel<br />

Packaging: 75cl cork.<br />

AWARDS<br />


ASSOCIATION <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong><br />


IN VINITAY <strong>20</strong>18<br />

Kosho (sushi wine)<br />


www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />


Feature | Right Royal Wines<br />

PART ONE<br />

Right Royal<br />

wines<br />

The tiny European principality of Liechtenstein has<br />

had a wine industry for more than <strong>20</strong>0 years.<br />

By Gillian Vine<br />

74 <strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Summer</strong> <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>/<strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong>

Right Royal Wines | Feature<br />

Since 1712, the Liechtenstein royal<br />

family has been able to look down<br />

from their castle at Herawingert<br />

vineyard.<br />

SQUASHED between<br />

Austria and Switzerland,<br />

landlocked Liechtenstein<br />

covers a mere 160 square<br />

km, one-sixteenth of New<br />

Zealand’s land mass.<br />

With a total population roughly<br />

equal to Blenheim’s, it is one of<br />

the world’s smallest countries but<br />

has a surprising industry, false<br />

teeth. Indeed, something like <strong>20</strong>%<br />

of the world’s fake molars are<br />

manufactured here.<br />

Tourism draws some 1 million people<br />

a year, but they don’t stay long (86%<br />

are day trippers). Most are content<br />

to wander around the immaculate<br />

capital, Vaduz, pay €3 (about<br />

$NZ5.<strong>20</strong>) to get their passports<br />

stamped, maybe visit a museum<br />

and drift through the vineyard above<br />

the town.<br />

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />


Feature | Right Royal Wines<br />

Vines on the slope below Gutenberg Castle, where wine had been produced since the Middle Ages.<br />

Smarter tourists try the country’s<br />

wines, something they are unlikely<br />

to get at home, as Liechtenstein’s<br />

100 growers sell locally almost all<br />

their output – about 80 tonnes<br />

from around 30ha in vines. A<br />

tiny quantity of wine does go to<br />

Switzerland so you may be lucky<br />

to get a sip in Zurich.<br />

On its western border with<br />

Switzerland, Liechtenstein has a<br />

small chunk of the Rhine Valley.<br />

Sloping southwest, the area is<br />

blessed with good soils; 1500<br />

hours of sunshine a year and<br />

the hot, dry föhn winds that help<br />

sweeten the grapes.<br />

Viniculture started here about<br />

<strong>20</strong>00 years ago and when the<br />

Romans rolled through, they<br />

upped production, although<br />

the industry fell over when the<br />

Romans were driven out.<br />

The Christians took over, with<br />

many monasteries having their<br />

own vineyards. By the Middle<br />

Ages, when Charlemagne (742-<br />

814 A.D) united much of Europe,<br />

Liechtenstein’s Gutenberg Castle<br />

had a significant winemaking<br />

industry.<br />

Charlemagne’s edict that wine<br />

pressers should wash their feet<br />

76 <strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Summer</strong> <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>/<strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong>

Right Royal Wines | Feature<br />

Princely bubbly at the royal cellars, Hofkellerei des regierenden Fürsten<br />

von Liechtenstein.<br />

before tramping the grapes,<br />

didn’t go down well, but the<br />

industry survived.<br />

In 1712, in a bit of smart political<br />

manoeuvring, Prince Johann<br />

Adam of Liechtenstein acquired<br />

the county of Vaduz and, with it,<br />

the 4ha Herawingert vineyard,<br />

ideal for growing pinot noir and<br />

chardonnay grapes.<br />

Things looked good, the country’s<br />

vineyards grew and at their peak<br />

in the second half of the 19th<br />

century, wine was the country’s<br />

main export.<br />

Then disaster struck on three fronts<br />

– poor harvests, disease and<br />

foreign competition – and the<br />

wine industry all but collapsed.<br />

Happily, the past 40 years have<br />

seen an increase in winemaking<br />

but today there are only<br />

about 30ha in vines, a tenth of<br />

Liechtenstein’s 19th century high.<br />

There is a surprising range<br />

produced from such a small<br />

area – pinot noir, chardonnay,<br />

Gewürztraminer, dry white Grüner<br />

Veltliner, merlot and Riesling.<br />

The prince’s Herawingert vineyard<br />

is complemented by 42ha in<br />

Austria, owned by the royal family<br />

since 1436.<br />

www.winenzmagazine.co.nz<br />


Feature | Right Royal Wines<br />

Vine motifs abound in Liechtenstein.<br />

Above Vaduz, it’s a<br />

short walk through<br />

the vineyard to the<br />

princely wine cellars,<br />

Hofkellerei des<br />

regierenden Fürsten<br />

von Liechtenstein.<br />

Wine tastings are<br />

available, last 30 to<br />

60 minutes and the<br />

price of about $30 a<br />

head includes four or<br />

five wines. Don’t miss<br />

the Blauburgunder<br />

(“blue Burgundy”),<br />

as this is the local<br />

pinot noir, probably<br />

the country’s bestknown<br />

wine, which<br />

has been grown<br />

in Liechtenstein for<br />

more than 300 years.<br />

They offer a good<br />

bubbly, too.<br />

So let’s drink to the<br />

health of Hans-Adam<br />

II, current Prince of<br />

Liechtenstein, and<br />

his country’s tiny<br />

but impressive wine<br />

industry.<br />

Even a drinking water tap is decorated with grapes.<br />

78 <strong>WineNZ</strong> Magazine | <strong>Summer</strong> <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong>/<strong>20</strong><strong>20</strong>


ISLE OF BEAUTY ROSÉ <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong><br />


NZ Wine of the Year Awards <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong><br />


Cathay Pacific Hong Kong International<br />

Wine & Spirits Competition <strong><strong>20</strong>19</strong><br />

Championing New Zealand Rosé Around the World.<br />


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Visit us at 119 Great North Road, Grey Lynn.<br />

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The name ‘Bentley’ and the ‘B’ in wings device are registered trademarks.<br />

© <strong>20</strong>18 Bentley Motors Limited. Model shown: Continental GT Convertible.

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