In print•online•everywhere!
£4.50 JANUARY 2020
READY
TO
PLAY?
TAYLOR WARD, JO HANSFORD SALON
WELCOME TO
THE PLAYGROUND!
When Creative HEAD invited four cool colourists from iconic UK salons to get playful with new-look
Majirel from L’Oréal Professionnel, the results were stunning. Come and see…
KATIE HALE, CHARLES WORTHINGTON SALONS
ANGEL MONTAGUE-SAYERS, SALLY MONTAGUE HAIR GROUP
CREATIVE HEAD PARTNERSHIP
AMBER SWIFT, CHARLIE MILLER HAIRDRESSING
PLAY WITH FIRE
You can’t disappear when you’re rocking red – and a cool, crisp copper is the most chic choice right now. There’s
a rippling effect of tones that brings this deliberately daring finish to life… Have you got a client who’s ready to play
with fire?
THE ICONIC SALON: CHARLIE MILLER HAIRDRESSING
THE COOL COLOURIST: AMBER SWIFT
CREATIVE HEAD PARTNERSHIP
MORE THAN HALF a century after it first opened
its doors in Edinburgh, Charlie Miller Hairdressing
has a generation-spanning story that many
hairdressing families will recognise, with the
baton being passed from father to sons. Now a
five-salon group, the brand has a simple ethos:
constant creativity. Always progressing, always
surprising. You’ll find brilliant colourist Amber
Swift at the Holy Corner salon, where she’s also
salon manager and has a list of fervently loyal
clients. “Majirel has amazing durability and
vibrancy,” she says. “If a client comes in asking for
a bright colour, you know you’ve got the security
to achieve it.”
AMBER’S FORMULA l ROOTS: MAJIREL RUBILANE 6.40 + 20 VOL, MAJIREL RUBILANE 7.45
+ 20 VOL, MAJIREL RUBILANE 8.43 + 20 VOL, MAJIREL CARMILANE C6.46 + 20 VOL + 4ML SMARTBOND IN EACH MIX
l LENGTHS & ENDS: RUBILANE 7.45 + 20 VOL, MAJIREL RUBILANE 8.43 + 20 VOL + 4ML SMARTBOND IN EACH MIX
ATOMIC BLONDE
Why are there so many iconic lines about blondes? They have more fun, so they’re perfect to get playful with.
From honey-hued to icy finishes, the full spectrum of blonde is a colourist’s dream. And with the social media trend
of biscuit blonde growing ever more popular, the cooler finish is building an army of fans
THE ICONIC SALON: SALLY MONTAGUE HAIR GROUP
THE COOL COLOURIST: ANGEL MONTAGUE-SAYERS
CREATIVE HEAD PARTNERSHIP
37 YEARS IN and the Sally Montague Hair Group
in Derby is still growing, still evolving. It’s a
forward-thinking business that’s established itself
as a premium brand for discerning clients looking
for impeccable service, on-trend expertise and
a personalised look. Angel Montague-Sayers
found her fashion footing early, working tirelessly
to build her name in the session world, and now
she’s back in the salon applying her fashionforward
style in the busy colour department.
“Majirel was the first range I ever used when I
started colouring,” says Angel. “I’ve grown up
with it and it’s grown, too. I recently completed
my L’Oréal Colour Specialist degree and Majirel
played a huge part in that.”
ANGEL’S FORMULA l ROOTS: MAJIREL COOL INFORCED 8.1 + 12.5 VOL+ 4MLS SMARTBOND
l LENGTHS AND ENDS: BLOND STUDIO MULTI TECHNIQUE 8 + 20 VOL
l TONING: ½ MAJIREL GLOW CLEAR + ½ MAJIREL COOL INFORCED 10.13 + 4 MLS SMARTBOND
MAKE MINE A MOCHA
There’s an air of mystery to a bold brunette – a confidence, a don’t-mess-with-me attitude. Brunettes are the lifeblood
of the salon but, if we’re honest, they’re rarely seen as a hotbed of creativity. Let’s play away the grey with something a
bit more inventive, shall we? Espresso? Americano? We like our coffee shades served hot
THE ICONIC SALON: JO HANSFORD SALON
THE COOL COLOURIST: TAYLOR WARD
CREATIVE HEAD PARTNERSHIP
LEGEND IS A title that needs to be earned, and
colour queen Jo Hansford has done that and then
some – in fact, she’s been dubbed one of the best
tinters on the planet. With an expertise in colour
honed over decades, Jo’s been passing on her
colour skills to her Mayfair salon team for the
past 27 years, creating a squad of innovative and
in-demand colourists and stylists. Taylor Ward
joined Jo Hansford salon aged just 19, but her
precise eye for colour and strong creative streak
saw her complete her training in record time.
She has since become one of Jo’s most trusted
colourists. “I’m a real Majirel girl – ask anyone in
the salon!” she says. “The colours are so reliable,
and you can get creative with all the tones. It’s so
innovative, too.”
TAYLOR’S FORMULA l ROOTS: ¾ MAJIREL 6 + ¼ MAJIREL 5 + 12.5 VOL + 4MLS SMARTBOND
l LENGTHS AND ENDS: PARTIAL TECHNIQUE MAJIREL COOL COVER 7.18 + 20 VOL + 4MLS
SMARTBOND AND MAJIREL COOL COVER 6.8 + 20 VOL + 4 MLS SMARTBOND
PEARL’S GIRL
Hello pretty pastels! There something about a clean-canvassed client who starts talking sugared almond shades
that makes a colourist’s heart flutter. They’re the ultimate playground for the creative technician, painting in pops
of rainbow brights and shimmery hues. Pearly, translucent, lustrous… you’ve gotta love those pearly queens
THE ICONIC SALON: CHARLES WORTHINGTON SALONS
THE COOL COLOURIST: KATIE HALE
CREATIVE HEAD PARTNERSHIP
FROM TV WORK TO red carpet styling, Charles
Worthington MBE is a hairdressing icon and no
mistake – his eponymous salon group has been
at the forefront of modernity in London for more
than 35 years. As head of colour, Katie Hale works
closely with Charles and the creative team to
predict and then educate on the future season’s
trends and techniques that clients will be craving.
“What I love about Majirel, and the reason it’s
iconic, is that there is something for everyone
within the range,” she says. “Whether you’re
covering white or your client wants a metallic
finish, there’s a vast choice of colours and shades
that are mixable, reliable and provide natural,
effortless results.”
KATIE’S FORMULA l HIGHLIGHTS: BLOND STUDIO PLATINIUM PLUS + BLOND STUDIO NUTRI
DEVELOPER 20 VOL l FRINGE: MAJIREL GLOW L02 + 12.5 VOL + 4MLS SMARTBOND
l TONING : MAJIREL GLOW ½ L02 + ½ MAJIREL GLOW CLEAR + 12.5 VOL + 4MLS SMARTBOND
CREATIVE HEAD PARTNERSHIP
AN ICON IS ICONIC FOR A REASON
YOU REFRESH. YOU UPDATE. You stay relevant in a fast-changing world.
With the Majirel line from L’Oréal Professionnel there’s a very special
formula of heritage and innovation that keeps it at the forefront.
We loved celebrating the fresh new look of the legendary Majirel from
L’Oréal Professionnel – its new innovative Cool Inforced shades and
shimmering GLOW range – with cool colourists from some of the most
iconic salon brands in the UK. But let’s make one thing crystal clear: with
Majirel, everything’s changed but that iconic formula: one that colourists
across the globe have loved playing with for more than 40 years. It’s just
that now, there’s even more to play with...
Hair by Amber Swift and Cat Nicholson, Charlie Miller Hairdressing; Angel Montague Sayers, Sally Montague Hair Group assisted by Steph Faulkner;
Katie Hale, Charles Worthington Salons assisted by Lauren Yarnell; Taylor Ward and Frankie Moody, Jo Hansford Salon assisted by Megan Harris.
Photography by Lewis Hayward, assisted by Lucy Rooney. Behind-the-scenes photography by Harvey Williams-Fairley, Capture Collect. Styling by
Holley Coopey assisted by Olivia Jones. Make-up by Lucy Joan Pearson assisted by Annabel Clark. Models Copper: Johanna Adde at Nevs Model
Agency, Blonde: Victoria Palmer at Nevs Model Agency, Pearly Rose: Tara Keys at First Model Management, Brunette: Thaise Nicoleto at
Zone Models. Shot at Spring Studios
MAJIREL.
NEW PACK DESIGN.
PLAY WITH IT
L’Oréal Professionnel’s iconic colour line
has had a makeover. Take a look!
ARE YOU A LITTLE obsessive about your colour
bar? Want to know everything is in its right
place, so you can grab exactly what you want
in a flash, without a worry? Then bow down
and worship Majirel’s new pack design. It’s
minimalist. It’s fresh. It’s clean. There’s one pack
per colour family and the shade number clearly
marked to face you as you search for your hue,
making it the epitome of user-friendly. From ash
to warm browns, each pack includes between
five and 25 shades corresponding to their
colour family. So bring a little joy to your
colour shelves…
Of course, we’re all looking to be more
environmentally aware, and Majirel’s new
pack design ticks the box when it comes to
sustainability with its new 100 per cent recycled
plastic cap. Pop that cap, it’s play time!
#PLAYWITHMAJIREL
CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL
AND NOW THERE’S EVEN
MORE TO PLAY WITH!
Say hello to new Cool Inforced shades in February
A MAJOR PART in making Majirel iconic is the large colour palette. And now it just got bigger. Today you can play
around endlessly with more than 150 shades, and from February eight new Cool Inforced shades. You’ll see new
beige and ash shades boosted in cool reflects, so you can tap into that cooler trend while fighting brassiness for
up to 21 shampoos and keeping the tone neutral for up to six weeks. And, as every colourist knows, predictability
doesn’t have to be boring. Being certain you’ll get what you want and what you need allows you the freedom to be
creative without that nagging little worry that this result might not turn out quite as you’d hoped. The reliability of
Majirel fuels you to be fearless, to dare to try something different.
RELIABILITY + CONFIDENCE = ART. THAT’S PRETTY COOL.
#PLAYWITHMAJIREL
CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL
NEW PACK DESIGN
NEW COOL INFORCED SHADES
SAME ICONIC FORMULA
YOU DON’T MESS with an icon… and there’s a reason why after 40 years Majirel is still one of the top
choices for leading colourists around the globe and their loyal colour clients. Packed with Ionène G, a
highly concentrated care ingredient developed by L’Oréal Research, Majirel works to protect the hair’s
shaft all the way through while smoothing and softening the surface, leaving hair more conditioned* and
looking its glossiest best with a colour that lasts. So, while the outside has changed, it’s what’s inside that
counts: a creamy non-drip texture and a formula that delivers something fantastic, every time.
#PLAYWITHMAJIREL
*Instrumental test
WANT TO PRESS PLAY ON NEW MAJIREL FROM L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL AT YOUR COLOUR BAR?
CALL 0800 030 4034 (UK) 1 604 5913 (IRE) OR VISIT LOREALPROFESSIONNEL.CO.UK
CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM
MAGAZINE EDUCATION EVENTS INSPIRATION CREATIVE HEAD STORE COMPETITIONS
EXCLUSIVE
Refined romance for the modern woman – Christos Michailidis
plays with tiered texture in his latest collection, Fairytale
Shot in Snowdonia National Park,
Richard Phillipart blurs the lines
between hair and fashion photography
in ‘Nomadic Winter’. Watch the film now
The Coterie returns on 27 January
with beauty director Lisa Oxenham,
journalist and podcaster Madeleine
Spencer, Zoë Irwin, and more!
Salon Smart 2020 is all about
PROGRESS – ready to build for the
future? Tickets are available now, at
creativeheadmag.com/salonsmart
creativeheadmag.com
creativeheadmagofficial
@creativeheadmag
Editor’s letter
80
24
40
BIRTHDAYS ARE SO fleeting. Just 24 hours. Nah, we can do
better than that. A birthday week? Pffft. A birthday month? Keep
talking… let’s make it a birthday YEAR! Yup, 2020 sees Creative HEAD
celebrating its 20th birthday, and we’re going to party like it’s 1999… (plus
one). These past two decades have seen an incredible amount of change for
the industry and for us as a brand – in print and online we’ll be revisiting some
of those major flashpoints and considering the lasting impact of that period on
us all. But to kick it off, we asked 20 visionary hairdressers to look back over their
careers and select the look they consider their favourite from the past 20 years. It’s a
marvellous menagerie of styles, inspirations and stories – turn to page 68 for a walk
down memory lane. There will be so much more to come, and we’ll be asking you
to get involved too – keep an eye on #CHmag20 on @creativeheadmag to see how
you can share in the birthday fun.
Are you ready to get this party started?
CREATIVE HEAD
Since 2000
Amanda Nottage
Editor
JOIN US!
Change – it’s synonymous
with the New Year and
rather fi tting then that our
fi rst Coterie of 2020 will
explore our ever-evolving
social and business
behaviours. Our expert
panel will discuss it all on
27 January – see pages
46 to 47 for more. Then,
on 29 and 30 March,
our business networking
event Salon Smart is back
in London, and Progress
is top of the agenda. Expect
a packed programme of
presentations, workshops and
debates focused on helping salon
owners and managers prepare
and build for the future, turn to
pages 40 to 45 for details. Visit
creativeheadmag.com/events
amanda@alfol.co.uk creativeheadmag.com creativeheadmagofficial
@creativeheadmag
BE A PART OF THE MOST IMPORTANT
MEN’S STYLING AND GROOMING
COMPETITION IN THE WORLD.
WILL YOU BE THE NEXT WINNER?
YOUR CHANCE AWAITS
JANUARY 1 – MARCH 1, 2020
allstarchallenge.americancrew.com
ENTER THE
AMERICAN CREW
ALL STAR CHALLENGE
Show us your interpretation
of the American Crew
man with a visionary
and expressive style for
your chance to win the
experience of a lifetime.
WE ARE BRINGING
THE BEST TO LOS ANGELES
Five winners will take part in a
professional editorial photo shoot
alongside renowned photographer
and American Crew founder David
Raccuglia. The resulting photos will
be used by American Crew in their
worldwide press.
For updates and your chance to be a part of
this year’s competition visit allstarchallenge.
americancrew.com Or follow
American Crew on
CREATIVE HEAD
January
Since 2000
WHAT’S INSIDE
80
FASHION
Richard Phillipart
blurs boundaries
in nature
68
ONE VISION
We begin our birthday celebrations by
asking 20 top stylists and colourists for
their favourite image of the past 20 years
ON THE COVER
Majirel from L’Oréal
Professionnel
50
STATE OF
THE NATION
Take a look at
challenges that
salons across the
UK are facing
EDITOR
AMANDA NOTTAGE
DEPUTY EDITOR
DEBORAH MURTHA
STAFF WRITER
ANNA SAMSON
COMMERCIAL EDITOR
EVE WAGSTAFF
ART DIRECTOR
NICK JABBAL
CHIEF SUB EDITOR
ADAM WOOD
DIGITAL DESIGNER
EVA VESTMANN
ONLINE AND
DIGITAL ASSISTANT
KELSEY DRING
ONLINE AND
DIGITAL EDITOR
ALISON ROWLEY
CLASSIFIED EXECUTIVE
DAVID HAMMOND
SPECIAL PROJECTS MANAGER
JENNY BROOKS
SPECIAL PROJECTS DIRECTOR
JOANNA ANDERSEN
PUBLISHER
CATHERINE HANDCOCK
Creative HEAD is printed on
paper certifi ed as being from
sustainable sources using only
vegetable-based inks. Printed
by Buxton Press, Environmental
Printer of the Year and Printing
Company of the Year.
WRITE TO US AT:
Creative HEAD,
21 The Timberyard,
Drysdale Street,
London, N1 6ND
020 7324 7540
enquiries@alfol.co.uk
Creative HEAD is published
10 times a year by Alfol Ltd.
Creative HEAD is a registered
trademark. No part of this
magazine may be reproduced
without prior permission of the
publisher. All information correct
at time of going to press.
Printing by Buxton Press
creativeheadmag.com
creativeheadmagofficial
@creativeheadmag
JOIFULL
HAIR GOALS -
FULLfilled!
Long-lasting, full,
airy volume.
The JoiFull
transformative trio
makes your (hair)
dreams come true.
Henkel Nederland B.V. Grasbeemd 4 5705 DG Helmond The Netherlands HAIR: JOICO Artists PHOTO: Hama Sanders
NEW
#JOIFULL www.joico.eu
The edit
THE NEWS AND KNOW-HOW FROM YOUR INDUSTRY
CELEBRATES A
DOUBLE DECADE
CREATIVE HEAD MAGAZINE is turning 20
years old in 2020 and will be celebrating with a
year of exciting projects, events and surprises.
In every issue this year, two lucky Creative
HEAD Club members will find a Platinum
ticket signalling they’ve won an exclusive gift
from one of our generous partners (turn to
page 49 to see the January prizes – and to see
how you can sign up now!).
Catherine Handcock, publisher of Creative
HEAD, said: “We launched Creative HEAD in
2000 because the industry was changing and
people were looking for something different.
“We were so small back then but we were
passionate about what we wanted to achieve
– to give a voice to session stylists, to create
networking opportunities for business owners
and to celebrate creative talents in new and
interesting ways.
“Twenty years down the line and it’s exciting
to see how we’ve grown – but there’s so much
more to be done, and our passion for the
industry burns as brightly as ever. There’s
plenty more to come from Creative HEAD!”
Goldwell hosts
HUB Showcase
HARE & BONE’S Sam Burnett, the Simon Webster Art Team, Claire Turner
and Nicola Smyth Humphriss wowed the crowd at an exclusive showcase
for Goldwell’s HUB community. Held at the Ham Yard Hotel in London and
hosted by Goldwell’s head of education, Irene Meikle, the mission was to
supercharge everyone’s creativity for the year ahead, with looks including
pastel perfections and head-turning brights. The audience got to hear more
about the upcoming Goldwell Global Creative Awards, which will replace
Color Zoom as well as the KMS Style Ambassador programme.
Sam Burnett
10
# 20
IS BACK THIS MARCH!
This year’s theme is
PROGRESS
to find out how to book your
spot, turn to page 40 now
The Oil Ultime
Mediterranean Finishing
Oil from Schwarzkopf
Professional has us dreaming of
summer with refreshing citrus notes
of orange and lime and protection
from sun damage factors.
schwarzkopfpro.com/oilultime
ASPhair.com
#CHedit
AMERICAN CREW
ALL-STAR UPDATE
IT’S ALL CHANGE for the American Crew’s All-
Star Challenge, with fi ve winners now scooping
the top honour. They’ll receive a number of prizes,
including $5,000 (£3,800) in cash and an allexpenses
paid trip to Los Angeles to take part in
an editorial photoshoot alongside American Crew
founder and photographer, David Raccuglia.
The competition opens 1 January and closes
1 March. It will see individual in-country judging
panels select a national winner, who then move
forward to compete in the global competition of
more than 40 countries. An assembled Global
Committee will then name its top fi ve competitors
as the All-Star Challenge 2020 winners.
David said: “Every year I am honoured to be a
part of the All-Star Challenge and be able to give
talented stylists around the world the opportunity
to present their skills on a global platform.”
Headmasters to unveil
new London Academy
HEADMASTERS IS OPENING a new academy in February for
independent salons and hairdressers looking to learn from the
Headmasters Creative Team. Led by Headmasters creative and
communications director Andrew Barton, the education team
includes ambassadors Gareth Williams, Jonathan Soons, Nicole
Iroh, Alfie Pfeffer and Clare Hansford. Andrew said: “Our
reputation for creating beautiful, confidence-boosting hair is
part of the Headmasters DNA. I am thrilled to be able to share
this expertise with the wider hairdressing community.”
Nearly half of
salon owners
consider closing
ALMOST HALF OF salon owners have
seriously considered shutting up shop,
according to a recent survey by Phorest
Salon Software. It surveyed 1,000 hair and
beauty salon owners around the world,
discovering that many who had considered
closing had already been established for
more than three years.
The key contributing factors cited included
the challenges of hiring and managing staff
(32 per cent), external factors including rent,
tax and recession (22 per cent) and a waning
passion for hair and beauty that had made
work a chore (19 per cent).
12 %
of Brits don’t know whether they
should tip their hairdresser, according
to a survey by OnBuy.com, while
11 per cent of respondents admitted
they never tip anyone.
ENERGY PRICES
POSE THREAT
TO BUSINESSES
MORE THAN three-quarters
of salons (77 per cent) have
seen the cost of their energy
supply rise by at least £100
a year. The study, Powering
the UK High Street from Utilita
Energy, claimed that the
energy market is failing the
UK’s hairdressing industry with
rising costs. The report also
added that more high street
salons were concerned about
prices and their impact than
they were about the potential
fallout of Brexit. Nearly half
(47 per cent) of small
hairdressers have had
to cut staff working hours
to pay the bills.
MY month
AHEAD
What January
has in store for...
KRYSIA EDDERY
PERFECTLY POSH
I have training with Tracey
Devine-Smith about
hairloss, something I want to
concentrate on in 2020 due
to the devastating impact
this can have on people. I
will also train my team on
the programme I was taught
as part of my
Aveda Cutting
Purefessional
diploma. I’m
one of just 10
Purefessionals
in the UK!
CALLUM MCDONALD
RUFFIANS
There’s no better time than
January to change up your
look, and have cut my
long locks for choppy mod
style. I’m collaborating with
my Ruffi ans Shoreditch
colleagues to do a superexciting
project, working with
a band to do
a music video
where the hair
evolves through
the video.
MOVERS AND
SHAKERS
Bruno Marc, creative
director of Marc Antoni and
JOICO ambassador, is the
new president of the World
Hairdressing Congress.
Former It List It Guy Chris
Appleton scooped Hair
Influencer of the Year at the
American Infl uencer Awards.
Tom Connell, formerly of
Trevor Sorbie Salons, is the
new hair art director
at Davines.
12
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#LCT20
YOUR LIFE
IN COLOUR
L’ORÉAL COLOUR TROPHY OPENS THIS MONTH –
CAN YOU COLOUR YOUR WAY TO VICTORY?
14
The world’s longest-running live hair competition
is back and ready to be bigger than ever in its 65th
year, providing the opportunity of a lifetime for
its talented winners. Only the very best see their
names added to the L’Oréal Colour Trophy history
books and enjoy a serious boost to their career.
To make it to the top you’ll need impeccable
attention to detail, tonnes of technical skills and
the ability to predict the next hot hue for A/W20.
There’s no room for boring blondes or playing-itsafe
shades – the judges are expecting colour work
that will blow them away, both in terms of creativity
and technical prowess. The stakes may be high,
but so too are the rewards. From mentoring
opportunities for the STAR category winners to
nationwide fame and prestige, a L’Oréal Colour
Trophy win can completely transform your career.
Don’t take our word for it…
CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL
SINÉAD KELLY LONDON, L’ORÉAL
COLOUR TROPHY 2019 WINNER
EXECUTIVE STYLIST VAS MIKELLIDES OF SINÉAD KELLY
LONDON SCOOPED THE TOP AWARD FOR A SECOND TIME IN
2019 AND WE CAUGHT UP WITH HIM…
Creative HEAD: What was the inspiration behind the colour?
Vas Mikellides: To represent what we felt was the modern woman and
the message she encompasses. We wanted a rich, earthy tone, multifaceted
and complex in application and technique, but contemporary and
beautiful in its aesthetic. I used a layering technique where tones were
put over one another in various stages to produce an array of reflects that
could be seen under different lights, giving the colour depth.
CH: What was the experience of winning like?
VM: Neither [salon owner] Sinéad nor I could believe it. We loved what
we had done in both colour and styling but it’s difficult to be objective
when in a competitive environment. Since our win in 2016 with an iconic
‘blue bob’, we thought the chances of winning twice would be slim – if
not impossible. When we beat the odds it was overwhelming; a fantastic
feeling that we’ll never forget.
CH: Why do you think colourists should enter the competition?
VM: L’Oréal Colour Trophy is a great platform to showcase a team’s
skill and sense of style, a way of presenting your aesthetic to a wide
audience. From a business point of view, it’s a great talking point for
clients, as L’Oréal Professionnel is a global brand. It challenges you in
ways that help develop your skills and bring a team together. L’Oréal
Colour Trophy really pushes you to look at colour in a new way. It is one
of the most rewarding things we have ever entered.
Sinéad Kelly and Vas Mikellides
15
#LCT20
OWN THE
STAGE
L’ORÉAL COLOUR TROPHY 2020? YOU’VE GOT TO BE IN IT TO WIN IT!
FIRST… CHOOSE YOUR CATEGORY
NEW
FOR
2020!
L’ORÉAL COLOUR
TROPHY AWARD
If you’ve got the
passion, vision and
technical talent to
create a show-stopping
look, this is for you!
MEN’S IMAGE AWARD
Prove yourself to be
a grooming guru with
exceptional colour
skills that stand out and
make your way to the
Grand Final.
AFRO AWARD
Got a talent for texture?
Precise colour work
and creative vision will
see you go far in the
L’Oréal Colour Trophy
competition.
STAR AWARD
For promising colour
prodigies aged between
16 and 25, there’s no
better way to make a
name for yourself than
by winning this award.
COLLEGE CATEGORY
Open to full- or parttime
hairdressing
college students not
working in a salon,
this is a photographic
competition and the
perfect platform to
kick-start your career.
16
CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL
*Open to UK residents aged 16+ (and up to age 25 for the STAR award category) entering as part of a salon team (except for the College award category where
entrants must not be working in a salon and can be ROI residents). One entry per individual across all categories. One team per salon per category. Entries
must be uploaded to lorealcolourtrophy.com by 24/02/20. Must use only L’Oréal Professionnel products, entry photos must be in colour. Winning team (or
individual in the case of the College Award category) receives the 2020 Award for the relevant category and the chance to attend other hairdressing events/trips
dependent on category. See lorealcolourtrophy.com for full details and T&Cs. Promoter: L’Oréal Professionnel, a trading division of L’Oréal (UK) Limited.
THEN CHOOSE YOUR COLOURS
The beauty of L’Oréal Colour Trophy is that you’re not limited by the
salon you’re part of and the colour brand it uses. If you have the vision
and can use L’Oréal Professionnel colour to translate your ideas onto hair,
then the judges want to see it! Exceptional technical ability, impeccable
references and the will to execute your creative vision are what you need.
Your colour should be a reflection of the modern, trend-forward client who
is unashamedly boundary-breaking.
HOW TO ENTER #LCT20 *
1. Head to lorealcolourtrophy.com
2. Choose your CATEGORY to enter
3. CONSULT the full L’Oréal Colour Trophy
terms and conditions
4. COMPLETE your entry form
online and upload your
photo (must be no more
than one year old)
5. Submit your application
by 24 February 2020
ENTRIES
OPEN ON
2 JANUARY,
GOOD LUCK!
FOR MORE INFORMATION, VISIT LOREALCOLOURTROPHY.COM
@lorealpro @lorealprouk /lorealprofessionnel.uk #lorealprouk #LCT20
17
The L’Oréal Colour Trophy is the longest running
live hairdressing competition in the world.
Celebrating 65 years, we are dedicated to all that is great
in our industry – the artistry, the mastery and most
importantly YOUR talent.
Now 111 years old, L’Oréal Professionnel was founded on
professional hair colour, advancing the boundaries of
breakthrough innovation and pushing the industry forward.
The L’Oréal Colour Trophy invites you to make your mark
in 2020 by entering this historic year of the competition.
This is history in colour.
This is your life in colour.
ENTER NOW ONLINE*
LOREALCOLOURTROPHY.COM
Deadline for entries: 24th February 2020, 5pm
Make sure you consult the rules within the
competition Terms and Conditions!
*Open to UK residents aged 16+ (and up to aged 25 for the STAR award category) entering as part of a salon team (except for the
College award category where entrants must not be working in a salon and can be ROI residents). One entry per individual across all
categories. Entries must be uploaded onto www.lorealcolourtrophy.com by 24/02/20. Must use only L’Oréal Professionnel products,
entry photos must be in colour and no more than one year old. Winning team (or individual in the case of the College Award category)
receives the 2020 Award for the relevant category and the chance to attend other hairdressing events/trips dependent on category.
See www.lorealcolourtrophy.com for full details and T&Cs. Promoter: L’Oréal Professionnel, a trading division of L’Oréal (UK) Limited.
Image: UK Grand Final 2019
Hair by: Jo Cree Brown, Creative Director, Special
Projects for Trevor Sorbie International
@LOREALPRO
#LCT20 #LOREALPROUK
Half the size of its originals, new
Mini Tapes and Mini Strands from
Great Lengths are perfect to use
on clients with thin hair wanting to
discreetly enhance their look.
IN-SALON SERVICE
0113 278 1292
greatlengthshair.co.uk
Transform
dry, styled and
processed hair
into cameraworthy
perfection
with R+Co’s
Television
masque.
RRP £40
01442 248104
uk@randco.com
Aveda’s new Nutriplenish collection is customisable, with
a light and deep shampoo and conditioner, a hair oil and
a leave-in conditioner with UV filter, allowing you to tailor
the hydration level to your client’s needs.
RRP FROM £25
0800 051 2979
aveda.co.uk
Irresistible services consumers will want to
snap up, selected by the Layered team
Scan social media and you’ll see plenty of
clients struggling to find the right products to
use for their waves, curls, kinks and coils. That’s
where new Tea Tree Lavender Mint steps in –
seven new products infused with naturally-derived
ingredients fight frizz and provide essential
moisture. There’s also strictly no animal testing,
and its vegan, sulphate-free and is colour safe, too.
RRP FROM £16.75
0845 659 0011
salon-success.co.uk
For fine, thin locks the JOICO
JoiFull collection of Volumizing
Shampoo, Conditioner and Styler
is a dream, leaving hair brimming
with body and touchably soft.
RRP FROM £14.50
0845 071 2326
joico.eu
Containing 100 per cent certified
plants or natural ingredients, the
DiksoNatura haircare range by
Muster & Dikson is now exclusively
available at Salon Services.
SALON PRICE FROM £6.99
0330 123 1907
salon-services.com
The latest addition
to Olaplex’s range,
No.7 Bonding Oil is a
highly concentrated
and weightless
reparative styling
oil that dramatically
increases shine, softness
and colour vibrancy, while
reviving damaged hair.
RRP £26
0330 123 1907
salon-services.com
Protect your colour work with new #MyConfidant
shampoo and conditioner, and #MyHairLube, a finisher
that controls frizz and reduces breakage.
RRP FROM £17.99
0845 659 0011
salon-success.co.uk
An improved formula means
milk_shake’s Curl Passion
nourishes with precious Amazon
rainforest oils to give curls softness
and bouncy elasticity.
RRP FROM £12.24
01392 365 177
milkshakehaircare.co.uk
20
CREATIVE HEAD
#CHedit
STOCK
OPTIONS
OUR PICK OF THE LAUNCHES TO
STACK ON SHELVES, ADD TO MENUS
AND SHARE WITH YOUR STYLISTS
Love to play with Majirel from L’Oréal
Professionnel? Then get excited,
because the iconic hair colour has
enjoyed something of a makeover. Need
to grab the colour you want in a hurry?
The new minimalist packaging is clean
and fresh, with one pack per colour
family and the shade number clearly
marked to face you as you look for your
desired hue. From ash to warm browns,
each pack includes between five and
25 shades corresponding to their colour
family. Oh, and its new plastic cap is 100
per cent recycled. You can play with 194
hues, including eight new Cool Inforced
shades from February. There are new
beige and ash shades boosted in cool
reflects, perfect for the current cooler
trend and that fight brassiness for up to
21 shampoos and keep the tone neutral
for up to six weeks. So new pack design,
new Cool Inforced shades, new cap…
same iconic formula. Get playful!
IN-SALON SERVICE
0800 030 4034
lorealprofessionnel.co.uk
IT’S ALL ABOUT... LIGHT
New shades from Revlon Professional
Revlonissimo deliver maximum
neutralisation and optimum lifting power
on very dark shades in just one step,
and with absolutely no
warm undertone.
IN-SALON SERVICE
020 7391 7440
revlonprofessional.co.uk
System Blonde Anti-Yellow
Lightening Additive from ASP
Affinage Salon Professional lifts
and tones on all dark blondes to
lighter bases, leaving a white
blonde finish with no need to tone.
IN-SALON SERVICE
01794 527111
asphair.com
CREATIVE HEAD
21
WHY DID YOU WANT TO BECOME
A HAIRDRESSER?
I always felt that I had an
artistic streak but didn’t want
to go into art or photography.
Hairdressing was a great
way to enable me
to be creative
through a different
medium. I found I had
a hunger, drive and
passion to do more.
ELIZABETH WILLIAMS
AGE: 21
SALON: KH HAIR HINCKLEY, LEICESTERSHIRE
WHAT HAVE YOU BEEN YOUR
HIGHLIGHTS SO FAR?
Assisting Richard Phillipart
at London Fashion Week,
styling hair at the 2019 BRIT
Awards and putting together
my own collection.
WHERE DO YOU SEE YOUR SELF
IN 10 YEARS’ TIME?
I’d love to own my own salon
where I can educate other
young hairdressers. I also want
to enter more into session
styling and photographic work.
WHAT WOULD YOUR DREAM
HAIRDRESSING GIG BE?
Creating hair for
editorials alongside
labels such as
Alexander McQueen,
Chanel or Dior. I’d
love to work on their
fashion campaigns and
see my creations featured in
top fashion magazines.
MAIN IMAGES: HAIR Elizabeth Williams.
MAKE-UP Cristina Lazzarotto.
STYLING Dana Verri. PHOTOGRAPHY Lucy Feng
22
HIT
THE
BULLSEYE
HAIRDRESSER, SALON OWNER, ENTREPRENEUR – CAROLYN ARONSON HAS CHANNELLED
HER 35 YEARS OF EXPERIENCE INTO CREATING A WINNING COMBINATION WITH IT’S A 10
It’s a 10 has become a sensation in its
native US and is the brainchild of Carolyn
Aronson. We sat down with her to chart the
rise and rise of her miraculous brand…
CREATIVE HEAD: Where did it all begin for you?
CAROLYN ARONSON: I’ve been a hairdresser for
35 years. At the age of eight I declared I was
going to be a hairdresser, so I started beauty
school at 16 and stood behind the chair for
20 years. From there I migrated into salon
ownership, still behind the chair, and finally
into hair product manufacturing.
CH: What did you feel was missing in hair?
CA: I wanted to create products I had always
wished I’d had when I was a hairdresser.
When I was a salon owner I used to cherrypick
lines because I never found a range that did everything I wanted. I
understand why now – it’s not easy to make products a perfect 10 every time.
CH: How do you make sure your products hit the mark?
CA: Sometimes I work on my formulas for as long as three years – I’m
extremely picky. I challenge the chemists that I work with and I use multiple
chemists. Obviously, I wanted to make the best products that give instant,
miraculous results, but also ensuring that they are multi-functional.
CH: What is your golden rule for products?
CA: I’ve learnt to do what I call KISS – Keep It Simple, Stupid. There are
so many products that you look at and say: ‘What is this? What does it do?’
When you turn my bottle over there are 10 bullet points on the back, clearly
describing what the product does, how to use it and what it does. Simple.
THE PRODUCT THAT STARTED IT ALL
The original It’s a 10 Miracle Leave-
In Conditioner Spray is the product
that kicked it all off. “It’s the very first
product that I ever created,” Carolyn
recalls. “We now sell more than 13 million
bottles a year in the US of this product
alone. I always say we’re the most
colourful brand that doesn’t see colour.
It’s good for everything from coily
black hair all the way through to
fine blonde hair and everything
in between.”
A MODERN CULT CLASSIC, THIS
MULTI-USE SPRAY CONDITIONER
HAS 10 BENEFITS:
1. Repairs dry, damaged hair
2. Add shine
3. Promotes silkiness
4. Detangles
5. Controls frizz
6. Seals and protects colour
7. Prevents split ends
8. Prevents breakage
9. Enhances body
10. Provides thermal protection
Are you ready to experience a miracle? Discover the brand for yourself
or how to become a key stockist through Aston & Fincher
astonandfincher.co.uk
@itsa10haircare
CREATIVE HEAD
23
#CHedit
Inside
story
HARI’S HAIRDRESSERS KING’S ROAD
Having launched this location eight years ago, Hari’s Hairdressers founder,
Hari Salem, felt it was time for a revamp. However, there was a practical
reason, too: “The team needed more space as the salon is always
packed, which is a great problem to have,” smiles Hari. So, he decided
to remove the drinks bar to offer up additional space for three more
workstations. There are antique Indian columns against the walls at the
back of the salon, a favourite part of the new look for Hari, and original
’50s Moreno lights ensure just the right ambience, too. “Whenever I travel,
I’m always inspired by the different cultures, that I come across,” says Hari.
“Incorporating unique furniture from around the world creates a beautiful
setting.” A coffee bar has been added, alongside a rather nifty digital retail
unit, courtesy of L’Oréal Professional Products Division. The result is a
more spacious feeling and even another backwash. Thoroughly regal.
HOT BUYS
FADE TO GREY
With the Layla styling
chair in grey from Salon
Services, you’ll be offering
cool-looking comfort in a
well-upholstered square
of a seat. With hydraulic
height adjustment and a
five-star chrome base.
£179 exc. VAT
0330 123 1907
salon-services.com
now open
CHARLIE MILLER STAFFORD STREET
This Edinburgh favourite has also enjoyed
a revamp (well, it has been going strong for
18 years), now with a luxe yet modern vibe to
the stunning Georgian townhouse salon.
24
CREATIVE HEAD
BACK TO BASICS
AS YOU CATCH YOUR BREATH AFTER THE CHRISTMAS RUSH, JANUARY IS THE PERFECT TIME
TO PLAN AHEAD FOR GROWTH IN THE NEW YEAR WITH THE NHBF’S HELP
DREAMING OF BIGGER and better
things for 2020? It’s crucial not to forget
the business basics if you’re planning on
growing and taking on more staff.
“It’s important to keep up with new
legislation to ensure your business stays
within the law,” says Hilary Hall, NHBF
chief executive. “For example, from April
2020 all new employees must be given a
written statement that includes all the
terms and conditions of their job on the first
day of employment. The current law gives
employers two months to do this.”
Make sure you give your employees a
proper itemised pay slip as well, says Hilary.
“Payslips must include the total number
of hours worked or a breakdown of hours
paid for different types of work and/or rates
of pay.” Other information that must be
on payslips includes gross and net salary,
NI and other deductions. The NHBF has
contracts and staff handbooks free for
members, available at nhf.info/contracts.
It’s important to keep an eye on the
clock. Make sure your employees don’t
work more than 48 hours a week, including
overtime. “Your employees are also entitled
to rest breaks,” says Hilary. “For example,
employees over the age of 18 are entitled to
a 20-minute break if they work more than
six hours a day.” All of your employees are
entitled to 5.6 weeks of paid annual leave
(pro rata for part-timers) – so a stylist who
works five days a week should get at least
28 days’ paid holiday. NHBF members can
call the NHBF team for help calculating
annual leave entitlement – especially useful
if you have part-time staff working different
hours on different days. Different rules
apply to people under the age of 18.
Keeping up-to-date with the National
Minimum Wage (NMW) rates is crucial.
“Otherwise you risk large fines and public
naming and shaming,” says Hilary. “Keep
a note of staff birthdays, as they may be
entitled to go onto a higher rate and look out
for news of NMW rises this coming April.”
NHBF members can download an in-depth
guide to recruiting and employing people at
nhf.info/employing-people.
NOT YET AN NHBF
MEMBER? FOR LESS
THAN 75P A DAY,
BENEFITS INCLUDE:
• Valuable discounts
on industry-specific
insurance: nhf.info/
insurance.
• Free health & safety
advice.
• Free 24/7 legal and
commercial helplines.
• Membership helpline
for everyday business
advice.
• Free employment and
chair renting contracts.
JOIN THE NHBF
BEFORE THE END
OF JANUARY 2020
AND QUOTE CHJ25 TO
GET £25 OFF YOUR
MEMBERSHIP FEE
Discover how the NHBF can help you plan for your business’ future.
For more information, call 01234 831965 or visit nhf.info
CREATIVE HEAD
25
THE BUSINESS EDIT
TAKING COMPLAINTS
THE RIGHT WAY
NO MATTER HOW hard you try, sometimes
a client will come along who you just can’t
please – it’s a fact of salon life. However,
learning to deal with them in the right way
can help you avoid bad publicity and even
strengthen your relationship with that client.
Hazel Holmes, owner of Bijou Salon,
believes that when taking on complaints,
it’s important to be patient. “I always allow
a good 12 to 24 hours before getting back to
a client if they have contacted by email, as
this gives us a chance to factfind within the
salon as to what happened,” she explains.
“It is very important that I, as a salon owner,
have a clear picture of what went on.”
It’s worth training staff to read the signals
that someone might not be happy before
they leave the salon, as Hazel explains.
“Sometimes you can tell at the end of a
service if a client isn’t 100 per cent happy
with their hair, so I encourage my staff to
ask what can be improved there and then if
the client isn’t clearly loving their new look.”
And telling clients that small changes
can be made there and then will give them
reassurance, explains Adele Clarke, owner
of Spectrum Hair Company. “Saying ‘any
small alterations within the first week are
complimentary should you need them to
make your style more manageable’, goes a
long way to make a person feel looked after,”
she explains.
Ensuring clients know exactly what
they’re signed up for can help avoid
misunderstandings in the first place –
consultation is key. “Colours and cuts that
require more than one visit to achieve are
best protected by written consultation
records,” says Adele. “Then there is no way a
salon can be accused of misleading a client.”
JO HARDARDT,
ELEMENTS
We find clients mostly
complain by calling in
and asking to speak to the
manager, but occasionally
we have had clients post bad
reviews on Facebook. When
dealing with such situations I
always try and put myself in
the client’s shoes and always
apologise for the situation, but
not the service, until I know
all the details. Sometimes
I need to investigate the
complaint further so I always
explain that. If necessary, we
refund the client and offer to
resolve the complaint.
H …
CAPTAIN YOUR SALON
NEED A LITTLE KNOW-HOW TO
NAVIGATE AND GROW YOUR
BUSINESS? FREDDIE BANKS,
GENERAL MANAGER UK & IRELAND
FOR KÉRASTASE AND SHU UEMURA
ART OF HAIR, IS HERE TO SHARE
SOME INSIDER KNOWLEDGE…
ONE OF THE biggest challenges for business
owners is managing people and uniting them
all with a common vision in a clear way. They
can feel pressured into becoming an expert
in every part of their business in order to stay
in control. But this isn’t the route to success,
nor is it conducive to a happy and balanced
lifestyle. So, how do you relinquish control yet
stay in control at the same time? Think about
how a crew operates on a boat. Everyone has
their own individual role to play. And if you, as the
captain, are involved in all of the tasks your crew
are doing, how can you have a clear vision on the
direction the boat is taking? In salons, the trap
many owners fall into is becoming caught up in
the detail, with no time left to form a clear vision
and business plan. Is the detail you’re tangled up
in making the boat go faster? Or are you slowing
it down? Consider these points:
CHOOSE IMPACT OVER CONTROL
Before jumping in, ask yourself: if you don’t
get involved, what will the impact be? You
may realise that the business will not be on
the brink of liquidation if you don’t sign off
the coffee replenishment order.
DON’T BE FICKLE
When you have made a decision stick to it.
If you keep diverting off course or changing
your mind every hour, your team will never
feel empowered, only confused.
BECOME AN EXPERT ENABLER
The key to managing experts is to know
enough to challenge and ask the right
questions. Upskilling yourself is a great idea,
but don’t try and pretend to be the expert –
nobody expects you to be.
WANT TO KNOW HOW YOU CAN BOOST YOUR BUSINESS WITH KéRASTASE? CALL 0800 085 4958 OR VISIT KERASTASE.CO.UK
26
CREATIVE HEAD
#BusinessEdit
KEN’S CLINIC
GOT A BUSINESS HEADACHE? LET KEN WEST, DIRECTOR OF BUSINESS
EXPERTS 3•6•5, OFFER A PERSONAL PRESCRIPTION
KEN’S DIAGNOSIS
Glad to see you’re planning ahead Thomas. When
salons forecast their budgets for the year ahead, many
fail to include what is possibly one of the most important
investments of any business – education. The word is
‘investment,’ because without education how do you and
your team continue to grow? There are three types of
education that all salons should invest in.
The first is product education. This is invariably provided
free (or should be) by your suppliers but not all salons take
advantage of this. Without it your team lose confidence and
with a lack of confidence their upgrades will reduce and
so will their creativity. Their retail sales
will also drop off and retailing is vital for
creating client loyalty.
Second is skills education. Too often
hairdressers believe that they don’t
need to carry on developing their skills
but this is far from the case. We must
all continue to improve what we do.
New techniques are constantly
being developed and fashion
is an ever-evolving beast.
It’s very easy to become
a dinosaur, and we know
what happened to them.
We are in one of the most
competitive industries
and complacency can be
disastrous. I have seen
many salons and stylists
fall from their ivory towers
because of complacency.
How can you
spend your
education
budget so that it
benefits the entire
team, rather
than certain
individuals?
THOMAS HILLS, TH1 HAIR
New skills can be learnt in many ways. Manufacturers
often provide skills education – our parent company, Salon
Success, provides such education for the salons it supplies.
There are many academies that provide skills education
but I would suggest you select carefully. Reputation is vital
so ask other salons you know for recommendations. Spend
your money wisely. The best value skills education can
often come from within. Many of the skills I learnt over the
years have come from asking those around me who were
better than me at a particular skill to share their knowledge
with me. Together we can grow.
The third type of education is business building. This is
often overlooked in the belief that if you get the first two
right then our businesses will naturally be successful. This
is so far from the truth and I have seen many beautiful
salons, full of talented and creative stylists, fail because of
poor management as a result of lack of business education.
Obviously companies such as the one I am part of, 3•6•5
Salon Education, provide comprehensive programmes
for owners, managers and stylists to help them to grow.
However this can also sometimes be available from your
suppliers, although it often tends to be biased toward the
use of their products as well.
Any or all of this education can be delivered to groups or
to individuals. All I would say is: if you invest in educating
an individual, always protect your investment and ensure
that they share their knowledge with your team.
Finally, be passionate about learning and education. It
should be at the top of your budget and not the bottom. If
you don’t believe me, look at the Apple model. It believes
in education so much that it delivers education to its teams
every day in its stores.
DO YOU HAVE A BUSINESS HEADACHE YOU’D LIKE KEN TO HELP WITH?
Email him directly on KenW@365Hair.com or tweet us at @creativeheadmag
28
CREATIVE HEAD
SUCCESSFUL
BUSINESS
COACHING FOR
SALONS
Are you a
Salon Owner?
Do you want your salon to grow in
this competitive economy?
3·6·5 offer successful business coaching for salons
providing you with powerful results-focused salon
business education for your whole team. Meet likeminded
people and discover the right tools to tackle
key challenges in your business, steering you towards a
stronger, more profitable future.
Discover how
we can help you…
Call 0845 659 0015 or email hello@365hair.com
www.365saloneducation.com • Find us: @365SalonEducation
#BusinessEdit
HAIR AND BEAUTY’S
BOOMING: REPORT
NEW YEAR,
NEW NAME FOR
FEDERATION
THE NHBF – which stands for the
National Hair & Beauty Federation – is the
new name for the NHF/NBF.
President Ian Egerton, said: “Members
had the chance to vote on the name change
and were overwhelmingly in favour of it.
“It remains familiar as it builds closely
on our previous name, but is shorter
and snappier while maintaining brand
awareness.”
The NHBF’s strapline ‘supporting the
hair, beauty and barbering industries’ will
remain the same, Ian said. “The strapline
really sums up the work we have been
doing since we were first established
in 1942 as the leading trade association
dedicated to hair and beauty in the UK,”
he added.
BETWEEN 2014 AND 2019 the number of hair and beauty businesses has
shot up from 34,000 to 49,000, the NHBF has revealed in its annual hair and
beauty industry statistics.
NHBF chief executive Hilary Hall, said: “Growth was particularly strong
for beauty salons (+73 per cent) and barber shops (+64 per cent), with hair
salons showing the least growth (+21 per cent).”
The survey revealed survival rates for hair and beauty businesses
combined were 10 per cent higher than the average across all sectors, says
Hilary. “Hair salons are particularly resilient, with more than 75 per cent
of businesses making it past their first five years. But beauty salons have a
tougher time with only 60 per cent surviving five years – slightly below the
national average.”
However, the NHBF stats showed that the number of apprenticeship starts
in England continues to fall, dropping from 11,500 in 2017/2018 to 9,932 in
2018/2019. While the number of apprentices on the more recent Trailblazer
standards has not changed, the number on the old frameworks has dropped.
Hilary added: “The drop in apprenticeship numbers is worrying as young
people are the future of our industry. There have been concerns about the
new rigorous end-point assessments, but we’re hearing good news on success
rates and the possibility of getting a distinction has been a positive, too.”
Find out more at nhf.info/industrystats
CAMPAIGNING TO GO
UP A GEAR IN 2020
THE NHBF WILL be stepping up its campaigns
activity in 2020 on behalf of its members and the
hair and beauty industry as a whole.
“We listen to our members to find out what
matters most to them and lobby at the highest
levels on key issues such as tax, wages,
employment law, business rates and rogue
operators,” said NHBF chief executive,
Hilary Hall. “In 2020 we will be widening the
scope of our campaigning activities to further
promote inclusivity and diversity in our industry
and to fight for more eco-friendly products
and services.”
Find out more at nhf.info/campaigns
NHBF announces 2019
Business Awards winners
The NHBF Business Awards winners took to the red carpet at a glitzy awards ceremony
held in London to celebrate the best in the business.
The standard was higher than ever this year, said NHBF president Ian Egerton, and
the judges, including Creative HEAD editor Amanda Nottage, found it hard to select the
overall winners. “We were so impressed by the entries we received from across the UK,
it made judging very difficult! Many congratulations to all our finalists and winners.”
The ceremony was held at the St. Pancras Renaissance Hotel, where the winners
of the NHBF Photographic Image of the Year were also announced. See the full list of
winners: nhf.info/businessawards. Entries for next year’s Business Awards open in May
30 CREATIVE HEAD
BUSINESS BUILDER
To keep growing your business, it’s
important to always be on the lookout
for expansion opportunities. This
January, consider diversifying your
service offering to include nail, waxing
or tanning treatments. This will help
you transform your salon into a onestop-shop
for clients looking for a
new look this New Year.
Get inspired by endless colour
possibilities while mastering
lightening and toning techniques with
the #mydentity Lightening &
Toning Masterclass. From
gaining a full understanding
of the #mydentity
lightening portfolio to
learning how to integrate
Olaplex into all your
lightening services
– this course is a
must for hair
professionals.
#BusinessEdit
ASK ME
ANYTHING
THERE ARE EXPERTS INSIDE
EVERY BRANCH OF SALON
SERVICES WITH KNOWLEDGE
TO SHARE, SO JUST ASK!
Jo Martin
Jo Martin, marketing
director at Sally Europe
THE SERVICE STATION
In association with
Innovative launches, expert advice and business
boosting ideas – drop in and feel the buzz!
ON RIGHT NOW
With Veganuary upon us, there’s no better
time to stock up on natural and animalfriendly
products. Check out the Salon
Services website to discover Muster &
Dikson’s brilliant DiksoNatura haircare
range. All products – including shampoos,
conditioners, hair lotions and masks – are
100 per cent free of animal ingredients.
Grab yours now!
WELL-GROOMED
BUYS FOR THE BOYS AT
WAHL’s new Cordless
Detailer 8171-830 (£110
exc. VAT) is now available
at salon-services.com.
Featuring an extra
wide T-blade for ultraclose
cutting, this next
generation, lightweight
and agile trimmer is
a must-have for every
barber shop.
Q: How can I make
my business veganfriendly
in 2020?
A: With veganism on the
rise and many customers
taking on the challenge
of Veganuary, it’s a
market that businesses
and freelancers can no
longer afford to ignore.
First, stock up on key
vegan products to both
use and retail in your
business. Thankfully
there are a lot of
fantastic cruelty-free
and vegan hair brands,
such as Olaplex and
Maria Nila, to choose
from. Next, remember
that those customers
will expect you to do a
little extra to reflect your
environmental focus.
This includes trying
to be as plastic-free
as possible, recycling
and even looking at
ways to reduce your
energy consumption.
Authenticity and
commitment is key to
the eco-friendly client.
FOR ADVICE ON HOW TO BUILD YOUR BUSINESS, CALL 0330 1231907 OR VISIT SALON-SERVICES.COM
CREATIVE HEAD
31
#BusinessEdit
MISSION CONTROL
PUTTING YOU IN THE DRIVING SEAT OF YOUR SALON
in association with Phorest and the Creative HEAD Reader Panel
ONCE EACH ISSUE of Creative
HEAD lands with our subscribers,
we speak to our Reader Panel to ask
them how their business is going,
in partnership with Phorest Salon
Software. We combine the results
from our Reader Panel with research
compiled by Phorest Salon Software,
using its client base of salons from
across the UK, to gauge what’s going
on in the industry and discuss how to
solve common problems and issues.
This month we’re talking about how
you can use mobile apps to your
salon’s advantage.
PERCENTAGE OF TURNOVER
ATTRIBUTED TO RETAIL SALES
7.5%
AVERAGE CLIENT SPEND
IN OCTOBER (EXC. VAT)
£51.56
HOW DO YOU
COMPARE?
How was business in October
compared with September?
DOWN
12%
SAME
12%
UP
76%
How was business in October
compared with October last year?
THE MISSION: USE MOBILE BOOKINGS TO YOUR ADVANTAGE
25%
of salons asked
have a mobile
app
DOWN
38%
SAME
12%
“We are considering a salon app. Our online bookings
have increased massively, so we will probably look at an
app this year, especially if we can do it in conjunction with
our salon software”
FIONA BELL, CLINTON JAMES HAIRDRESSING
UP
50%
Most salons with an
app have developed it
with a salon software
company
DID YOU KNOW…
APP-USING CUSTOMERS VISIT YOUR
SALON 16 PER CENT MORE OFTEN
DID YOU EVER hear someone say, “there’s
an app for that”? Of course you did. That’s
because 57 per cent of all digital media usage
comes from mobile apps, and the average
smartphone owner uses 30 apps each
month. Is your salon’s booking app one of
them? If not, you could be missing out on an
uplift of 16 per cent of visits from your clients,
according to new data from Phorest Salon
Software. A deep dive into the usage habits
of clients who use salon branded apps to
book, manage and review their appointments
showed that they enjoy the experience so
much that they visit salons up to a fi fth more
than their non-app using counterparts.
“Having your own dedicated app puts your
salon brand on the home screens of your
customers,” explains Enda Glacken, product
manager at Phorest. “This helps build loyalty
– every time your customer opens their phone
they will be reminded of your brand.
“Second, through a dedicated app,
customers can book appointments via their
phone so easily. It’s a much better booking
experience than using a website, and we
know that good experiences associated with
a brand, build brand loyalty.”
Getting your salon customers signed up
and adopting your app is critical to making it
work – this is where your marketing campaign
across email, SMS and social media will come
in. By promoting it on social media, you’ll not
only be driving the message to your current
clients that you know what they need, it will
help attract new business once they see how
slick and simple interacting with your salon is.
Phorest Salon Software offers bespoke
apps for salons as part of an all-in package.
All your beautiful branding and personality,
and none of the technical headaches.
Shauna O’Halloran is content &
marketing manager at Phorest
Salon Software. Find out more
at phorest.com and
@phorestsalonsoftware
Reader Panel methodology: survey conducted in a poll of 50 salons employing four or more staff and spread geographically across the UK
32
CREATIVE HEAD
Reuse. Reduce. Refill.
For a truly unique & Personalized
salon experience!
Refillable and reusable innovation
Infinite mixing possibilities, colour enhancing
shampoos and conditioners for
the most creative colourists!
COLOUR VISION
COLOUR DOESN’T NEED TO TAKE A BACKSEAT JUST BECAUSE IT’S QUIET IN JANUARY –
WELLA PROFESSIONALS SHOWS YOU HOW
IN ASSOCIATION WITH
PURSE-FRIENDLY
PICK-ME-UP
Recruit loyal colour clients at this difficult time of
the year with affordable colour services from Wella
Professionals. No Strings Attached Colour, Wella
Professionals’ glossing service, allows you to
transform your client’s look in just 10 minutes – great
for those who want low-commitment colour and
it frees up time for you as well, using your current
permanent colour assortment. By infusing hair with
one of the many Koleston Perfect ME+ shades and
deeply conditioning for a beautiful finish, clients feel
like they’re having a much more extensive service for
a fraction of the time and price. Also it’s a great way
to have your newer recruits practising their colour
skills. It’s the ideal solution to the January blues.
No Strings Attached Colour is a genius service,
just what we’ve been waiting for. It’s the ideal
introductory service for clients who are shy of
colour commitment or in conventional jobs, but keen
to jazz up their look for a night or weekend. It’s
super-quick to deliver and affordable, while giving
fabulous shine and exciting colour that washes
out with ease. If a client has been patch-tested
it’s a great add-on service, easily delivered by an
assistant. We saw an immediate uplift on colour as
soon as we introduced it.”
COLIN MCANDREW,
MEDUSA GROUP
I love anything new for my business – No Strings
Attached Colour embraces new clients and clients
who have never coloured their hair before. They
are blown away by the shine! We are making our
applications exciting by creating quick and easy
sectioning patterns that show soft multi-tonal
accents in the finished result. My team loves getting
involved – we work closely together to get the best
out of each other and to promote the best for our
client base. I’m definitely quite the #colourflirt
when it comes to fun mixtures!”
SARAH MASON,
SARAH MASON PROFESSIONAL
34 CREATIVE HEAD
LEVEL UP
TO MASTER
COLOUR EXPERT
Master Colour Expert is the programme to invest in
if you’re looking to genuinely transform your colour
career. Thousands of colourists across the world
have undertaken this course to grow their technical
skills and business know-how.
It’s akin to university, with complete immersion
and training in every aspect of colour, and the
resulting certifi cate will pay dividends. Over six to
nine months you attend a course of face-to-face
sessions with top educators, supported by the
innovative eEducation online platform.
You need a minimum of fi ve years of colour
experience and to have completed the Colour Craft
Essential, Colour Craft Corrective and Creative &
Freehand Colouring courses. Are you ready to level
up your colour career? Call the London (020 3650
4700) or Manchester (0161 834 2645) studio to fi nd
out more.
CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL
“The MCE programme gave me the skills and confidence to further develop my colour technique. I initially trained
with Sassoon as a precision cutter, but the in-depth training in colour delivered by Wella experts was invaluable
to me. It provided the grounding for me to set up my own salon three years ago which is now noted as a ‘go-to’
and award-winning salon in central Manchester for all aspects of colour work”
MELISSA TIMPERLEY, MELISSA TIMPERLEY SALONS
70+
The
guest artists to
be inspired by,
educating in courses
to suit all your
education and
inspirational
needs
Wella
Professionals
Education Brochure
2020 is out now!
Get your copy to
check out all of the
new courses and
updated education
opportunities. Go to
education.wella.com
to download your
digital copy
CREATIVE HEAD
35
THE COLOUR
CLINIC IS OPEN…
EVERY ISSUE WE TACKLE A UNIQUE COLOUR CONUNDRUM
WITH THE HELP OF WELLA’S COLOUR CREATIVE GUEST
ARTISTS. THIS ISSUE WE’RE HANDING IT OVER TO CLAYDE
BAUMANN, GLOBAL COLOUR DIRECTOR AT D&J AMBROSE
AND WELLA PROFESSIONALS PASSIONISTA
Everyone seems to be going around balayage-ing
everything that moves at the moment. We are getting
clients coming in for colour corrections with large,
chunky sections from a colourist who hasn’t been
educated properly. Perhaps the communication
with the client hadn’t been established as to which
technique to use – the other complaint that we see is
that the colour looks more like a dip-dye, and less of
a blended transition. This is quite a tough one to fix
because you have to start doing naturalising, you have
to colour-match the client’s natural colour and take
that colour through, but also use a lightener to softly
refine any areas that are too thick or too chunky. It’s
a great opportunity to score yourself a new client and
to make some good money. By attending the Wella
Professionals Colour Clinic, you’d be able to learn all
of these tools.”
CLAYDE BAUMANN, COLOUR DIRECTOR,
D&J AMBROSE
Do you have a
colour challenge that
you simply can’t crack? The
new Colour Clinic from Wella
Professionals allows you to
book in an appointment with one
of Wella’s technical educators
to diagnose and solve your
colour problem. You can
even bring your
client!
36 CREATIVE HEAD
#ColourVision
SHELFIE TIME
CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL
I absolutely LOVE the Color Motion+
range from Wella Professionals, the
longevity you get from your colour is
insane. The infusion of WellaPlex in
the treatment gives you that added
kick of structural repair, and the
client aftercare process is super-easy
to follow with amazing results! The
Pre-Color Treatment porosity spray
is to die for! It creates a much better
canvas for painting my creations”
THOMAS FREAR,
THOMAS FREAR HAIR DESIGN
AND WELLA PASSIONISTA
PROVE YOUR
PASSION
If you’re digitally savvy and a lover of all things Wella
Professionals, then you might have the golden ticket to the
exclusive club of the Passionistas. This network includes more
than 300 creative hair geniuses across more than 40 countries,
with the UK currently leading the charge with 61 members.
The scheme has some seriously sweet perks as well – they get to
preview upcoming launches and test them out ahead of everyone
else, as well as being the fi rst to hear about news and events.
There’s also the opportunity to join exciting projects led by aweinspiring
artists such as Zoë Irwin. If you think you have the digital
skills and Wella passion to make it through, you can fi nd more
information at wella.com/professional.
COLOUR CONFIDENTLY WITH WELLA PROFESSIONALS. CONTACT YOUR WELLA PROFESSIONALS SALES REP OR CALL YOUR LOCAL WELLA STUDIO:
LONDON – 020 3650 4700 MANCHESTER – 0161 8342645
DISCOVER THE PRODUCTS AT UK.WELLASTORE.COM. BOOK YOUR FACE-TO-FACE STUDIO AND ONLINE EDUCATION AT EDUCATION.WELLA.COM
@wellahairuk #WellaColour #ColourFlirt Wella Professionals @WellaUK
CREATIVE HEAD
37
WITH NO STRINGS ATTACHED GLOSSING SERVICE
FROM WELLA PROFESSIONALS.
Maximise recruitment of new colour clients. For first timers or experimenters,
transform your clients’ hair in 10 minutes whilst conditioning it.
I love the speed and simplicity
of No Strings Attached colour.
It can fit into anyone’s column and
complements the existing
salon services easily, adding
great value in terms of revenue
and meeting clients’ needs.
ROBERT EATON
Wella Professionals Technical
Director, UK & Ireland
2019 British Hairdresser of the Year
FORMULA
1 part Koleston
Perfect Me+
1 part Welloxon
Perfect 1.9%
Pastel Developer
1 part INVIGO Post
Color Treatment
BOOK A COURSE NOW IN ONE OF OUR STUDIOS
London: +4480 3650 4700, Manchester: +44161 8342645, Dublin:+35 314 160 900
uk.wellastore.com @wellahairuk #WellaColour #ColourFlirt
CREATIVE HEAD’S BUSINESS NETWORKING
EVENT FOR SALON OWNERS AND MANAGERS
SET
NEW
GOALS
# 20
29 & 30 MARCH
PARK PLAZA LONDON RIVERBANK HOTEL
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VISIT CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM/SALONSMART CALL 01434 610944
CREATIVE HEAD’S BUSINESS NETWORKING
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YOUR
CREATIVITY
# 20
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CREATIVE HEAD’S BUSINESS NETWORKING
EVENT FOR SALON OWNERS AND MANAGERS
DEVELOP YOUR TEAM
FIND YOUR SPECIALISM
MODERNISE AND UPGRADE
THINK SUSTAINABILITY
SET NEW GOALS
EXPAND YOUR CREATIVITY
PROGRESS
PREPARE AND BUILD FOR THE FUTURE
# 20
29 & 30 MARCH
PARK PLAZA LONDON RIVERBANK HOTEL
Weekend Pass £295 plus VAT
Weekend Pass Double Deal £450 plus VAT
Day Pass £100 plus VAT
Terms and conditions apply, visit creativeheadmag.com/salonsmart
BOOKING NOW
VISIT CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM/SALONSMART CALL 01434 610944
THE TIMES
THEY ARE A
CHANGIN’
LIMITED NUMBER OF
£15 TICKETS AVAILABLE
IF YOU PURCHASE BY
TUESDAY 7 JANUARY
MONDAY 27 JANUARY
7-10PM, LONDON
DIGITAL VS PRINT, THE SOCIAL MEDIA AGE, BRAND LIFESTYLE,
SMART SHOOTS…OUR EXPERT PANEL DEBATES THE SHIFT IN
HOW PEOPLE CONSUME AND THE IMPACT IT HAS ON INDIVIDUALS,
BUSINESSES AND BRANDS
LISA OXENHAM
BEAUTY & STYLE DIRECTOR, MARIE CLAIRE
MADELEINE SPENCER
WRITER & HOST OF BEAUTY FULL LIVES PODCAST
ZOË IRWIN
CREATIVE DIRECTOR, JOHN FRIEDA SALONS
LUKE HERSHESON
CREATIVE DIRECTOR & CO-FOUNDER, HERSHESONS
BUY TICKETS AT
CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM/STORE OR CALL 01434 610416
TICKETS £25 OR TWO FOR £40 / CLUB MEMBERS PAY £15
Includes canapés on arrival, drinks all evening and a gift from JOICO
CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM
AUTUMN
W I N T E R
2019
001_AW19_Covers_GW4.indd 1 29/07/2019 15:16
FOR SALON OWNERS & MANAGERS
CREATIVE
HEAD
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THIS PAST WEEK
001-002_BH_Cover_Salon Success_16pp_GW11.indd 2 18/02/2019 10:18
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Win a hamper of Fudge
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Already a Creative HEAD Club member? We’ve got something special for
you too! One lucky club member has the chance to win a hamper of Fudge
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ARE YOU A CREATIVE HEAD CLUB MEMBER?
IT’S OUR BIRTHDAY…
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TO CELEBRATE OUR 20TH BIRTHDAY, WE’VE DECIDED OUR BRILLIANT CREATIVE HEAD CLUB MEMBERS DESERVE
A BIRTHDAY PRESENT… AND LOTS OF BIG HAIRDRESSING NAMES AGREE WITH US! THAT’S WHY EVERY MONTH
IN 2020 TWO WINNERS WILL FIND A PLATINUM TICKET IN THEIR ISSUE OF CREATIVE HEAD – THAT’S A TOTAL OF
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In January, you could win…
*Prizes are non-transferrable. No cash equivalent will be offered
A day with Altin Ismaili and Dan Spiller from the
Marc Antoni Artistic Team – thanks JOICO!
If you have this ticket, you have won a place on JOICO’s
Masterpiece Collection course, which draws inspiration from
artist Paul Klee. Congratulations!
A free ghd workshop or seminar – whoop!
Those lovely people at ghd have a totally free education
course up for grabs for one lucky Club member. The
winner can choose any workshop/seminar from ghd’s 2020
programme, up to the value of £250. Wow!
Join the Creative HEAD Club now for just £10!
Visit creativeheadmag.com/club
THE STATE OF
THE NATION
SALONS UP AND DOWN THE COUNTRY ARE FACING CHALLENGES REGARDING
CLIENT LOYALTY, MARKETING, TIME BETWEEN APPOINTMENTS AND MORE.
AS WE START A NEW YEAR AND A NEW DECADE, YOU TELL US HOW YOU’RE
EMPOWERING YOUR BUSINESS
CHALLENGE: MARKETING
FIND THE SPOTLIGHT
JOSIE JOHNSON, NINE HAIR LOUNGE, CORNWALL
A FRESH SLATE CAN BE BOTH EXCITING AND TERRIFYING.
ADD IN A MOVE ACROSS THE COUNTRY AWAY FROM YOUR
OLD CLIENTS, AND YOU HAVE A REAL CHALLENGE AHEAD,
SAYS JOSIE (PICTURED ABOVE LEFT)
Moving from Southsea in Portsmouth to a Cornish
village meant beginning again and branding is a huge
part of creating attention. We knew we didn’t want to be a
quaint local salon, so my business partner Katie [pictured
above right] based the look and feel on modern interiors
and followed that through with branding, which made a real
impact. We use social media as our prime marketing tool and
a window for our work, but word of mouth remains the best
form of advertising, especially in our close-knit community.”
MATT SURPLICE, SPRING, BIRMINGHAM
BRANDING SPRING AS THE UK’S FIRST CURLS-ONLY
SALON WAS A RISK WORTH TAKING FOR MATT, WHO
FOLLOWED HIS GUT AND HIS PASSION TO CREATE A
HAVEN FOR TEXTURED HAIR
Trying to get new clients to understand our ethos has
been more of a challenge than expected. But the fact
that we’ve gone from a salon of three people to a salon of
11 shows it’s not a small, niche market either, it’s huge.
Because we have a very specific market, we don’t advertise
at all and a lack of footfall doesn’t affect us – we rely on word
of mouth. But never underestimate the power of internet
and Facebook forums. We have grown our reputation there
and it’s been a formidable source of business.”
50
CREATIVE HEAD
CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL
Get noticed
It’s time to turn heads with Treatwell
IN A SEA OF SALONS, it can be hard to rise and then stay
above the surface. Believing in your vision and the skills of
your staff only takes you so far – you need a platform to be
seen, to be an island above the waves.
Become recognised for what makes your business special
with the help of Treatwell, Europe’s largest hair and beauty
booking platform.
Attract new clients who vibe with your style with a
Treatwell profile of your own. Get found by area and the
services you offer and then let clients book with confidence
with verified reviews. Showcase what makes you unique
with a fully customisable treatment menu and an online
portfolio that shows off your best work. Plus, you can even
organise a photoshoot to create outstanding visuals of your
salon – for free.
On top of this, Treatwell invests millions in marketing
for its partners all year round, driving customers straight
through to you so they can book. Targeted ads on Google and
social media, huge email campaigns and print advertising –
you name it, they’re there.
MAKE 2020 THE YEAR YOUR SALON STANDS OUT FOR WHAT MAKES IT SPECIAL, WITH TREATWELL.
FOR MORE INFORMATION VISIT TREATWELL.CO.UK/2020
CREATIVE HEAD
51
CHALLENGE: BOOKINGS
LOCKED IN
SIMON WILLETTS,
COMBERS INSIDE OUT, TAUNTON
THE COMBERS PHILOSOPHY OF MAKING CLIENTS
FEEL BEAUTIFUL INSIDE AND OUT HAS LED TO
SIMON’S SALON BECOMING ONE OF THE PREMIER
DESTINATIONS IN THE WEST COUNTRY
JENNIFER LINTON, LINTON & MAC, ABERDEEN
AS WINNER OF THE IT LIST ENTREPRENEUR AWARD
FOR 2019, JENNIFER KNOWS MORE THAN MOST
ABOUT SECURING BOOKINGS AND GETTING GUESTS
THROUGH THE DOORS
It has always been at the heart of our business to
create a multi-faceted experience. We are constantly
reassessing and redirecting ourselves, there is no room
for complacency here! We have a comprehensive online
booking system that integrates with our front of house
system. Our online bookings doubled in just two years
to make up a quarter of all of our bookings. We also put
our daily availability up on our Instagram Stories to
highlight any last-minute availability. We regularly create
services to answer the needs of our city, keeping regulars
interested and attracting new guests to the salon.
“We created our Breakfast Menu when a huge shopping
and office complex opened near the salon, so we started
opening at 7am and offering express services in hair and
make-up, all served with a coffee and a healthy breakfast
offering. We actually tied in with one of our regular
client’s small business to offer the organic yoghurts she
produces as part of the breakfast. Express services like
this and our popular Style Bar mean we are creating more
visits per client and filling in our stylists’ schedules…
which means more bums on seats!”
It doesn’t surprise me to learn that many salon
owners spend so much time in their business that
they don’t have the time to look at their software stats
and improve – I was that person. Introducing promotions
without fully understanding the cost or monitoring
the results is madness, but something I did in my first
years of business. Any marketing when you have a bad
business model will just put you out of business quicker,
so continuous stylist education on skill and service, with a
strong and consistent lead and direction from the owner/
manager, was the first step we introduced.
“Promotions and sales, I have tried them all. While they
improve immediate cashflow, they harm future business
and set a precedent for the clients it attracted and
existing clients. So, we rarely do it except for value-added
promotions involving treatments or retail.
“It is difficult for a business to be all things to all clients
and still be authentic. We set our sights on the discerning
client looking for quality. We allocate time to allow stylists
to deliver face-to-face consultations on every visit. By
gaining feedback on previous visits and reviewing the
client’s hair plan, we’re able to encourage loyalty.”
52
CREATIVE HEAD
CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL
Get booked
Fill your day with great clients thanks to
Treatwell’s leading booking software
IN A BUSY MODERN WORLD, it’s crucial that you stay
visible, easy to contact and book. Say goodbye to lastminute
cancellations or dusty columns and watch your
diary fill up, thanks to Treatwell’s digital tools that help
you work beautifully.
With 24/7 online client bookings you don’t need to worry
about missing that phone call, interrupting your working
day or accidental double bookings. It’s all taken care of, even
when you’ve left for the evening. Set up ‘Book Now’ buttons
across all your platforms, so whether they’re browsing your
website, social media or Treatwell profile, they can book
you in just a few clicks. You’re in complete control of your
calendar with Treatwell, and smart pricing options turn quiet
lulls into flurries of activity.
TAKE BOOKINGS WITHOUT LIFTING A FINGER IN 2020 WITH TREATWELL.
DISCOVER FOR YOURSELF AT TREATWELL.CO.UK/2020
CREATIVE HEAD
53
CHALLENGE: CLIENT LOYALTY
KEEP ’EM COMING
LAURA OTT, HAIR OTT, PORTSMOUTH
AN 85 PER CENT RETENTION RATE ACROSS FOUR
SALONS SHOWS LAURA (PICTURED BELOW, INSET)
KNOWS A THING OR TWO ABOUT CUSTOMER LOYALTY
The salon group has been going for more than
43 years, and I would attribute much of our success
and retention to our team. They are highly educated in
hairdressing and also really nice people who care about
the clients. Our salon culture is one of friendliness and
we work hard to make sure our clients feel part of our
company. We are continually looking at our clients’
experience and how we can improve it; our aim is always
to create an emotional connection. We never want them
to feel that we take them for granted, especially the ones
who have been coming to us for more than 40 years. They
even have their own name – ‘The Hair Ott Hotties’!
“Great retention starts with education. From the
moment our new apprentices start we teach them
about understanding the client and the importance of
looking after them. Newly qualified stylists, who we call
graduate designers, build their columns through the
recommendations the salon receives and, once they build
their own reputations, they start to have a high number
of personal recommendations. We also make sure to
introduce them through our social media channels.”
ESTHER VAN DER VEKEN-PRINS,
TOMMY’S HAIR COMPANY, LLANDUDNO
ESTHER EXPLAINS HOW TOMMY’S APPROACHES
THE CLIENT EXPERIENCE AS FUNDAMENTAL TO
THE BUSINESS, RATHER THAN AN AFTERTHOUGHT
Inset: Esther with co-owner
Tommy Van Der Veken-Prins
We’re very fortunate that our guests generally rebook
in the salon; currently about 85 per cent do so. The
relationship that we have with our guests is extremely
important to us and I think the statistics really show
how loyal we are to them as they are to us. At Tommy’s
Hair School (our education school located above our
Llandudno salon), we strive for new recruits to build a
loyal clientele throughout their career. We discuss the
client relationship and how to build on this, which is vital
to filling a column and keeping guests loyal. Our students
experience the salon floor throughout their training,
which helps in filling their column in the long run. We
often create an introductory offer when they first qualify.
In quieter spells, such as January, we use this time to
promote our students who are looking for models, and
also for juniors to build their columns.”
54 CREATIVE HEAD
CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL
Get repeats
So you’ve got the bookings – but how do you make them stay?
YOU WAVE ANOTHER seemingly happy client out of the
door, after providing an excellent service. The next thing
to do is to ensure they come back – again and again. Enter
Treatwell, here to make your customer service as seamless
and delightful as possible.
Turn a first impression into a lasting impression with
all-in-one tools that seamlessly integrate into your life and
increase client loyalty – without the workload.
Keep in touch with your clients through pre-built email
templates that you can send whenever you like. With
automated appointment reminders and invitations
to rebook, you can focus on managing your business
(and slaying on a daily basis) rather than worrying about
tracking dates.
Treatwell also creates profiles for new and returning
clients, so you can keep track of their preferences,
appointment history and any other notes, to help customise
your approach.
BUILD RELATIONSHIPS THAT LAST A LIFETIME WITH TREATWELL’S CUSTOMER TOOLS.
DISCOVER MORE AT TREATWELL.CO.UK/2020
CREATIVE HEAD
55
CHALLENGE: MANAGEMENT
YOU CAN WITH A PLAN
SIMON HILL, SESH HAIRDRESSING, EDINBURGH
SIMON KNOWS WORKING A FULL COLUMN WHILE
RUNNING A BUSINESS CAN BE OVERWHELMING IF YOU
DON’T HAVE A STRATEGY IN PLACE THAT WORKS
When you’re on the floor with clients you want to be
completely dedicated to them, and the only way to
do this is by ensuring the business side is well run and
organised. I dedicate Tuesdays as my ‘admin day’ to cover
everything from staff rotas to business planning and
analysing numbers and reports. I use a salon software
system and I’ve also enlisted the help of a mentor to
help me understand the business logistics, and to help
put processes in place to make sure the business runs
smoothly, which has helped me hugely.
“Setting aside time to crunch the numbers and
analyse reporting and sales can be difficult.
Since I have dedicated a solid day each
week for this, I do find that I am much
more aware of where we are as a
business which is invaluable. This
ensures that you are fully aware of
any areas that require attention.
Then you can decide if action
needs to be taken and avoid any
issues mounting up past the point
of no return.”
LEAH DURRANT, LEAH DURRANT
HAIR SALON, CHERTSEY
RUNNING A BUSY HAIR SALON IS
ONE THING, BUT LEAH DOUBLED
THE CHALLENGE AND OPENED A
BEAUTY SALON ACROSS THE ROAD
TO EXPAND HER BRAND
It’s a balancing act running two
separate salons and being a single
mum of two children, but luckily I love
what I do. It’s essential to have a business
plan. I have plans for everything, including
marketing, team training and the salon. I decide
what I want the salon to achieve and then break it down
into monthly goals. I still work on the salon floor, cutting
hair three days a week, and I work one day at my home
office and one day on reception at my beauty salon. To be
honest I could work full time on the business, as a lot of
owners I know do, but I love seeing clients and I think it’s
important to show the team that you are one of them, too.
“I’ve used a software system rather than paper diary in
my salons since I opened 10 years ago. It’s one of the best
investments you can make for any business as it keeps
control of stock, staff hours and holidays as well as client
details, history and record details. I use it to make reports
for me and the team, so everyone can see their progress,
which is motivating and helps them earn more. It all adds
up and is crucial to running a profitable business.”
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CREATIVE HEAD
CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL
Get organised
Don’t let admin keep you from running the business of your dreams
SO MANY BUSINESS OWNERS rue the fact that the dayto-day
running of the place requires so much time away
from the salon floor, from doing what they love. Don’t let
paperwork get in the way of creative work: Treatwell offers
partners a wide variety of tools to free up time, so you can
focus on creating the best customer experiences possible.
Find everything you need to run your business beautifully
in one place with Treatwell’s acclaimed salon software,
Connect. With digital diary management you can stay on
top of who’s with which client, and when. Take the hassle
out of legalese with GDPR-secure client listing and database
management. You can even implement systems to manage
and track cash flow in and out.
Ever wish you could have a handy summary of how
your business is progressing by week, month or year?
Treatwell can clearly layout your sales and performance, and
consultative business advice is always on offer to identify
where your business could grow and improve. The Treatwell
toolkit has a big impact – it puts you back in the driving seat
and gives you more time to devote to your creativity.
FREE UP TIME TO SPEND IT WHERE YOU’D LIKE TO WITH TREATWELL’S TOOLS.
DISCOVER FOR YOURSELF AT TREATWELL.CO.UK/2020
CREATIVE HEAD
57
Go big
Give limp-haired clients extra oomph with
the new JoiFull collection from JOICO
58
THE SEARCH FOR a volume-boosting product range that doesn’t leave you
with a sticky, unworkable head of hair never seems to end. Your clients have
the same search; desperately looking for a miracle in a bottle that they can
easily work into their routines at home. Well, big, bouncy blow-out clients
will be clamouring for the new JoiFull collection from JOICO. This terrific
trio is the perfect combination to create hair with envious body and a lush
finish. It’s as easy as one, two, three…
CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL
1. Foundation
for fullness
The JoiFull Volumizing Shampoo lays
the groundwork by gently whisking
away the oils, pollutants and grime
that weigh down hair. Unlike many
volumising shampoos, this thick lather
won’t strip hair of moisture while it
cleanses. Clients are left with a plush
feel that’s naturally nourished and light.
2. Nourished hair
for healthy volume
A heavy conditioner will leave thinner
locks looking lank, so this formula
has been created to enable airy,
touchable body without weighing hair
down. Clients will love how this lightas-a-feather
conditioner leaves fine
hair feeling stronger, tangle-free
and looking super-shiny.
3. Volume and
bounce in a blast
Dreaming of a hero styling product that
gives body, bounce and fullness with
no sticky residue? JoiFull Volumizing
Styler is all of this and more – a
game-changing hybrid that combines
the glide of an airy crème with the
moulding power of a gelée. There’s also
thermal protection up to 230°C.
The brains behind the body
SmartRelease technology by JOICO means power-packed natural ingredients are slowly released throughout the day,
helping to protect hair against recurring damage caused by daily wear and styling. Let’s look at what’s on the menu…
Rice protein – rich in amino acids, this helps to strengthen and thicken hair for a fuller feel and visible lift.
Bamboo extract – fibrous and rich in silica, it helps to build volume while promoting thicker, stronger and
shinier strands.
Lotus flower – full of strength-building protein, magnesium and potassium, this helps to improve healthy
appearance and elasticity.
Go big and go home with the new JOICO JoiFull Volumizing collection.
To discover more, call 0845 071 2326 or visit joico.com/joifull
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WELCOME
TO THE
WORLD OF
THE CURL
Everyone with curls knows that they need a little extra TLC to keep them looking
nourished and healthy. With the natural magic of Tea Tree Lavender Mint, you can
bounce those bends back to life!
A new regimen and seven new products infused with naturally-derived ingredients,
Tea Tree Lavender Mint is a game changer. Made with monoi, pequi and jojoba oils to
nourish and help fight the dreaded frizz, these hydrating heroes provide essential
moisture to tame waves, curls and coils, and leave textured hair shiny, healthy
and conditioned.
And the goodness doesn’t stop there – this collection features strictly no animal
testing, is vegan, sulphate-free and is colour safe, too. Are you ready to play
minty matchmaker and introduce your curly-haired guests to their new BFF?
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CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL
RICH
REWARDS
WASH, TREAT AND STYLE WITH THE TEA TREE LAVENDER
MINT COLLECTION AND PUT GUESTS IN SEVENTH HEAVEN
EVERY GREEN BOTTLE in the
Tea Tree Lavender Mint collection
offers a soothing aromatherapy
experience with pampering
lavender, peppermint and tea tree
oil, alongside a Lavender Mint
fragrance that indulges the senses
and relaxes the mind and spirit.
But it’s the terrifi c trio of nutrientrich
oils that’s the secret to the
swish. Monoi oil has been used
for centuries on skin and hair, and
is made by soaking the petals
of Tahitian gardenias in coconut
oil. The traditional recipe calms
and smooths unruly hair with a
heavenly scent. Extracted from the
seeds of the pequi fruit, pequi oil
is a Brazilian miracle oil that leaves
hair smooth and silky. It’s rich in
nutrients and antioxidants – ideal
for healthy-looking hair.
And iconic jojoba oil is full of
vitamins and minerals, produced
from the seed of the jojoba plant.
It mimics the natural oils found in
hair, making it an ideal part of your
guest’s routine. There are seven
steps to curly-haired heaven – let’s
start on the path to perfection…
Wash with care
Lavender Min t
Moisturizing Cowash
A creamy, no-lather rinse that gently cleanses the
scalp and nourishes for added manageability.
TOP TIP!
Cowash hydrates and
conditions hair without
disrupting the natural curl
pattern or weighing hair
down. A gentle cleansing
conditioner, it's best
used between regular
shampoo routines
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CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL
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FRIENDS
CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL
WITH
BENEFITS
IT’S HARD FINDING your
perfect match. Speak to
your curly-haired guests, and
they’ll tell you how long they
have searched for The One.
They’re on a quest to unearth
that ideal line-up of products
that has truly been created
with their curls in mind… and
want a specialist with specifi c
expertise to help them make
their hair look and feel healthy
and incredible every single day.
Textured hair guests love
the Tea Tree brand already,
reaching for the Tea Tree
Special Shampoo for a weekly
wash. Now, with Lavender
Mint, there’s the perfect match
for their needs, giving you a
great opportunity to share your
advice and tips to help them
properly care for their curls,
and to build their trust in you
for appointments to come.
Trea t curls like they mean the world!
TOP TIP!
For extra hydration, advise
your guests to use Lavender
Mint Overnight Moisture
Therapy to nourish, soften
and help get a restful
night’s sleep
Lavender Min t Overnight
Moisture Therapy
TOP TIP!
Before using styling
products, apply Lavender
Mint Nourishing Oil to the
lengths of the hair where
natural oil doesn’t
travel
Lavender Min t
Nourishing Oil
This hard worker restores and repairs as guests
sleep, so they wake up to healthy, hydrated hair.
A layerable, multi-benefi t oil, it absorbs quickly to
fi ght frizz, humidity and split ends as it smooths.
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66
WAVE HELLO
NOW IS THE perfect time to
shout out how much you love
working with textured and
curly hair. With campaigns
to make high street salons
texture-neutral gaining
ground, it’s never been more
important to ensure your team
is skilled and ready to service
every guest sitting in their
chair. Is your salon prepared
for that?
Book product education
to teach your team the tips
and tricks they need so that
you have an army of experts
on hand for textured haired
guests to trust and rely on.
It’s a brilliant opportunity
to build your business, too.
Offer a Lavender Mint Wash
House experience at the
basin, providing a sensorial
and pampering cleanse to get
everything started. But what
about additional treatments
and style menus for curly
haired guests to select from?
You can easily begin a curl
education service as an addon
bonus, so guests can learn
how to care for their hair at
home, all thanks to you and
your team of specialists.
Just think how your guest
will feel, knowing they are
welcome, that you have the
answers to hair maintenance
problems and you have the
products that deliver.
Feels good to make a
difference, right?
No frizz? Yes please!
Lavender Min t
Taming Cream
Shape and nourish curly hair without weighing it
down, for controlled natural styles or blow-drys.
Lavender Min t Curl
Refresh Foam
Refresh second-day hair for extended styling,
enhancing natural hair and revitalising curls.
Lavender Min t
Defining Gel
Provide deep hydration to enhance texture, lockout
humidity and define curls without crunchiness.
Lavender Min t
Moisture Milk
A creamy fluid that adds layerable moisture,
shine and definition to refresh hair.
CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL
ENSURE YOUR SALON HAS THE PERFECT PAMPERING PARTNER FOR GUESTS WITH TEXTURED AND CURLY HAIR WITH
NEW TEA TREE LAVENDER MINT – TLC FOR TRESSES HAS NEVER SMELLED SO GOOD! TO FIND OUT MORE, CONTACT
SALON SUCCESS ON 0845 659 0011 OR VISIT SALON-SUCCESS.CO.UK #PMTINGLE @PAULMITCHELLUK
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CREATIVE HEAD
Since 2000
O n e
V i s i o n
TO CELEBRATE THE START OF OUR 20TH BIRTHDAY YEAR, WE ASKED 20 VISIONARIES TO SELECT
THEIR OWN FAVOURITE WORK FROM THE PAST TWO DECADES OF THEIR CAREER. IN NO WAY RANKED,
IT’S A SPELLBINDING MIX OF TALENT, ARTISTRY AND INVENTION. EVERY PICTURE TELLS A STORY…
1“This collection is particularly close to my
heart as it showcases what I’m about as
hairdresser – how to wear your hair and send
a message at the same time. This image
shows how beautiful hair can be while still
projecting strength. This is just so simple
and beautiful and screams beautiful hair.
When I create a collection I want you to feel
something and this one, entitled Armour, is all
about using your hair as armour to conquer
the world.”
LISA FARRALL, WIG LONDON
HAIR Lisa Farrall. MAKE-UP Suhyun Kang. PHOTOGRAPHY Luke Nugent.
2
“This image was the fi rst women’s
shoot I ever did with my dear friend, the
photographer Wolfgang Donald Mustang lll.
After the shoot he asked if he could crash
on my couch for a few weeks… and ended
up there for two years. Those were great
times, He inspired me to open my fi rst
salon in Soho and it was his idea to have a
massive picture of a dog on the back wall,
which later became my brand’s logo. I’ve
always loved this image, even after 20 years
it still feels fresh.”
LEE STAFFORD
HAIR Lee Stafford. PHOTOGRAPHY Wolfgang Donald Mustang III.
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CREATIVE HEAD
HAIR Anthony Mascolo. MAKE-UP Pat Mascolo. PHOTOGRAPHY Alex Barron-Hough.
3“When
TIGI launched colour it gave me a new creative
medium to play with. Colour has never been my thing,
I’ve always had experts to achieve colour concepts
for my work. However, I appreciate the power it brings
to a cut and its importance in creating an image, so I
came up with the idea of showing colour through spray
painting. My wife Pat and I worked on the concept
together. We started with a pure white bob wig,
spraying the sharp shape with our chosen colours and
Pat created the make-up looks to continue the theme.
We used the concept for our launch presentation and
spray-painted the model live on stage. It was a great
way to express the power of colour.”
ANTHONY MASCOLO, TIGI
CREATIVE HEAD
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HAIR Neil Moodie. STYLING Cathy Kasterine. MAKE-UP Sam Bryant.
PHOTOGRAPHY Corinne Day. First published in Vogue Italia.
4“My favourite image is from March 2006,
taken by Corinne Day for Vogue Italia. The
shoot was inspired by images of Twiggy
from the ’60s. Carol Sippel, the model,
was having a moment, being shot by
everybody and walking a lot of shows. She
had shoulder-length hair and we decided
to try a short wig on her. I cut the wig into
a Twiggy-esque short cut but Corinne and
I thought it was a little too literal. The stylist,
Cathy Kasterine, liked it so there was a bit
of a battle over whether we kept it or not!
I suggested that we make the look more
modern. Cathy was against the idea but
she had to leave the shoot for a few hours,
so while she was gone I cut the wig shorter
anyway and we re-shot all the pictures we’d
done already! When Cathy returned she
soon realised it did actually look better, and
when the shoot came out, everybody was
raving about Carol’s new haircut as they
thought it was her own hair. I still love it to
this day. It feels timeless.”
NEIL MOODIE
HAIR Charlotte Mensah. MAKE-UP Lan Nguyen-Grealis. PHOTOGRAPHY John Rawson.
5
“This image is from my Afro-future collection
and it represents everything that I stand
for – it’s creative, powerful and feminine. It
is symbolic for many reasons and is a piece
of art close to my heart. Not only does it
reflect my journey to empower women, it
also gives women of colour a voice through
hair. I love this look because it’s timeless,
recognisable and utterly iconic.”
CHARLOTTE MENSAH, THE HAIR LOUNGE
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CREATIVE HEAD
“This image, The Kitten, is important to
me because of the time it represents in
my career. It was part of my first collection
for Headmasters after becoming creative
director. I was tasked with giving the group
a modern and impactful edge, and this
image appeared in all its windows. It really
was a project of passion with Headmasters
PR Laura Hinton and we had the image
made onto postcards and sent to the
beauty press. Elle put it on its office wall,
in the magazine and booked into see me.
This changed my career overnight. I met
Lorraine Candy, then editor in chief, and
began to cut and colour her hair. I was part
of Guido’s session team at the time and
the feeling of The Kitten, with its strong
‘60s vibe, was directly influenced by his
incredible work. To this day I get asked
for The Kitten. It represents what I love in
hair: a little coquettish, head turning and,
of course, a major blowout, which came to
define my career.”
ZOË IRWIN, JOHN FRIEDA SALONS
6
HAIR Mark Mciver.
HAIR Zoë Irwin. STYLING Ziad Ghanem. PHOTOGRAPHY Ram Shergill.
7“This is one of favourite cuts, done
right in my SliderCuts shop. It’s a
classic and sophisticated, grown
haircut that allows the benefits of a
fade while not showing too much
skin like a skin fade would. Because
of how dark his hair is and the higher
level on top as well as the small
yet distinctive fade, you’re more
able to see the ‘waves’ around the
hair; which is the look we’re trying
to achieve. You can still see the
definition of his hair – even when it’s
jet black – from afar; and you can
even spot the fade from a mile away.
The structure of the shape up also
emphasises the angles and definition
of the cut.”
MARK MCIVER, SLIDERCUTS
2019
CREATIVE HEAD
71
8
“This image was actually published
in an early issue of Creative HEAD!
It was a time when I realised that
a shoot with hair didn’t have to
conform to what we perceive as
‘right’. In fact it was so wrong –
but I love it! Often we try to
perfect or recreate imperfection
but then it looks contrived.
I miss the excitement and
disappointment that came from
using real film cameras…”
PAUL MERRITT
HAIR Paul Merritt.
72
CREATIVE HEAD
HAIR Errol Douglas MBE. MAKE-UP Kylie O’Toole.
STYLING Leticia Dare. PHOTOGRAPHY Andrew O’Toole.
9“This shot was from my Icons
collection, which was my
interpretation of some of music and
film’s most famous styles. This was
my take on Suzi Quatro’s ‘shag’ – the
layers, that rock ’n’ roll texture, the
effortless cool that’s usually far from
effortless to create! To me it ticks all
the boxes as it’s a technical cut but
styled in such a way to make it really
wearable. Shooting in black and
white was a huge deal for me at the
time as I worried about losing depth
and definition, but my photographer,
Andrew O’Toole, showed me some
shots by Tim Walker, whose work I
adore, and I was immediately sold!”
ERROL DOUGLAS MBE, ERROL DOUGLAS
HAIR COLOUR Josh Wood. HAIR STYLING Guido Palau. MAKE-UP Diane Kendal. STYLING Katie Grand.
PHOTOGRAPHY Liz Collins. Marc Jacobs A/W18. First published in Love.
10
“My favourite image comes from working on
the A/W18 collection for Marc Jacobs and
creating these highly technical hair colours,
which was both exacting in technique and
exciting creatively. This particular colour,
shot for Love magazine, worked with the
balance of the cut Guido created and,
for me, summed up the mood of Marc’s
collection perfectly for that season.”
JOSH WOOD, JOSH WOOD COLOUR
CREATIVE HEAD
73
HAIR Sam McKnight. PHOTOGRAPHY Nick Knight. First published in Vogue.
11
“This iconic image of Kate Moss was
taken by Nick Knight at the end of
a day’s shoot. It ended up as the
December 2000 cover of Vogue, a
dark silhouette printed on shiny gold,
echoing the Victorian cameos of the
past but with Nick’s exquisite lighting
picking out fine details of Kate’s skin
and eyelashes. The hair was effortless,
twisted up in an easy and laid-back updo
that’s synonymous with Kate and
the era. I feel that the simplicity adds a
certain reality to the image. It’s because
of this timeless quality that I chose this
image for the cover of my book, and
for this piece in Creative HEAD.”
SAM MCKNIGHT
2019
12
HAIR Anthony Turner. MODEL Sophie Metais. PHOTOGRAPHY Sarah Piantadosi.
“The image I chose is actually only
partially because of the hair. I selected
it because for me it represents female
empowerment. So often women are
depicted as being submissive within
a sexual context, but what this image
shows is that actually women harness
magical power and control because
they are so much more in tune with
their sexual truth... much more so
than men.”
ANTHONY TURNER
2019
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CREATIVE HEAD
HAIR John Vial. MAKE-UP Hungry. MASK James T Merry. PHOTOGRAPHY Harley Weir. First published in Dazed.
13
“Much like Creative HEAD, the past 20 years
have been the most spectacular roller coaster.
Working alongside some of the world’s most
extraordinary visionaries in art, music, fashion
and architecture, we have strived to surround
ourselves with the best in class. Together we
have tried to push the boundaries of creativity
and elevate our craft to where it truly belongs, a
part of the arts. And again, like this magazine,
I also believe you’re only as good as your last
body of work. This photograph shows my latest
collaboration with Björk for a tour. She is like all
true creatives and envisions the whole picture,
of which hair is very much a part. Working with
her has been another honour, just as it is each
time my work is featured in Creative HEAD.
Happy birthday!”
JOHN VIAL, SALON SLOANE
CREATIVE HEAD
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14
“I loved everything about this
show for the 2018 L’Oréal
Colour Trophy Grand Final…
and creating this wig was not
easy! I worked with my longtime
wig collaborators Kevin
and Gerry to create this dream
afro. I had worked with the
model, Teneka, many times
before and knew that she
would carry it off. We were over
the moon with the final result!”
ADAM REED, ADAM REED HAIR
HAIR Syd Hayes. STYLING Katie Grand. PHOTOGRAPHY Mert & Marcus. First published in W.
76
HAIR Adam Reed. ASSISTANTS Ellenora Dean and Ryan Steadman.
15
“This has to be one of my most
favourite images of the past 20
years because the team was
incredible. Mert & Marcus, who
have been some of the most
influential photographers in the
fashion world; along with Katie
Grand, an incredible stylist; and
Vittoria Ceretti’s incredible face, of
course. I walked into the shoot, as
with many shoots, with no idea of
any concept or reference and hair
was key! I was told to create... and
it had to be big and beautiful!”
SYD HAYES
CREATIVE HEAD
16
“This image of Lana Del Rey taken by Sean
and Seng in April 2012 was one of my first big
editorials. I remember feeling really nervous
as I’d not long finished assisting and had
been following the photographers’ work for
a long time. There was a luxurious, ’60s feel
to the story, so the prep required a lot of
work, a combination of Japanese padding,
extensions and lots of backcombing. It was
the start of our love for these shapes and was
the inspiration for Lana’s first European tour,
playing with elevated shapes, head pieces
and accessories. It was such a creative
moment and one that really kick-started my
career. I am so grateful still for all the training I
received when I was assisting Sam McKnight
and Eugene Souleiman.”
ANNA COFONE
HAIR Anna Cofone. PHOTOGRAPHY Sean and Seng. First published in Interview.
HAIR Luke Hersheson. MAKE-UP Charlotte Tilbury. PHOTOGRAPHY Mert & Marcus. For Missoni.
17
“This image for Missoni was really my big
break into the top end of fashion. It was shot in
September 2001 by Mert & Marcus, the model
was Gisele and the make-up artist was Charlotte
Tilbury. Even though this image is verging on
20 years old it still seems modern and ahead of
its time; the beachy texture and bleached ends
were a sign of things to come. I set the hair
using Bumble and bumble Surf Spray to give a
matt, dried out texture – that was also super-new
at the time and it’s become a staple today.”
LUKE HERSHESON, HERSHESONS
CREATIVE HEAD
77
HAIR Johanna Cree Brown. MAKE-UP Hila Karmand.
STYLING Kieran Partise. PHOTOGRAPHY Grant James Thomas.
18
“This marked a departure from how I normally
approached my work and how I hoped to
continue to connect with the world of fashion
and art. Alexander McQueen had just released
his ground-breaking Plato’s Atlantis S/S10
runway collection – I instantly fell head over
heels for the world he had created. I spent
the best part of a month hand-painting wefts,
drawing my inspiration from the designer’s
digitally overlaid and distorted prints. The
colours were supernatural and I loved that.
It took a further year for me to find the perfect
storm to showcase the print, the right shoot
concept, model and application of colour to
hair shape. And when we shot it everyone just
went ‘wow’. I will never forget that moment!”
JOHANNA CREE BROWN, TREVOR SORBIE SALONS
78
CREATIVE HEAD
HAIR Antoinette Beenders. COLOUR Bruno Ellorrioroz.
MAKE-UP Dele Olongvela. STYLING Damian Foxe.
PHOTOGRAPHY Miguel Reveriego.
19
“This picture was taken by
Miguel Reveriego in 2008 in
London, at Spring Studios. At
the time Miguel and I wanted to
do high-contrast images for a
collection with an editorial vibe –
this is one of the eight images
that we shot that day. The
model had waist-length hair and
I decided to just go for it and
make the hair as big as I could.
For me, the simplicity speaks
volumes – high contrast and a
simple shape – isn’t that what a
hair image should be all about?”
ANTOINETTE BEENDERS, AVEDA
HAIR Mark Hayes. STYLING Jonathan Kaye. MAKE-UP Petros Petrohilos. PHOTOGRAPHY Lachlan Bailey.
20
“Rachel, the model in the photograph,
was my favourite to collaborate with. Fun,
super-intelligent and stunningly beautiful.
There was high expectancy of the image
as it was to be the lead of the newlydeveloped
Sassoon Professional product
line. I decided on a layered look that
accentuated Rachel’s head’s natural curve
and outlines to provide an architectural
frame for her face. The raven black colour,
red outfit, white background and glossy
skin complete the image. It is gamine and
elegant, very much my signature style, I am
extremely proud to have heard it referred to
as my own Five Point cut.”
MARK HAYES, SASSOON
CREATIVE HEAD
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CREATIVE HEAD
NOMADIC
WINTER
A Richard Phillipart & Stella Morais hair story
WANTING TO BLUR the lines between hair and fashion photography, long-time collaborators Richard Phillipart
and Stella Morais embarked upon an epic tale of travel, texture and nature. The hair looks are inspired by a
nomadic lifestyle, collecting influences and directions from across the globe and merging these with natural
elements to reflect the beauty of the wild world. Shot on location in Snowdonia National Park in Wales and
supported by BaByliss PRO, the team battled the elements to create their art. “The images presented in our
collection reflect how we see modern hair photography,” explains the duo. “No longer is there a need for sterile
headshots captured in a studio. Hopefully this will inspire people to create beautiful photographs of beautiful
hair for their collections, rather than relying upon shooting the same old imagery.”
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STORY PRODUCER AND HAIR Richard Phillipart, using BaByliss PRO and the Babyliss 9000
cordless styling iron. ART DIRECTION AND PHOTOGRAPHY Stella Morais.
STYLING Amii McIntosh. MAKE-UP Miranda Baron. HAIR ASSISTANTS Bailey Humphreys
and Miles Twist. PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANT Annemarie Sterian
WATCH go online to see the film,
exclusively at creativeheadmag.com
CREATIVE HEAD 89
Welcome to the
#badsalon
‘Something Sub-Standard’ – presented by Creative HEAD, hosted
by Ky Wilson and in association with BaByliss PRO – was strange
and provocative and had a serious message to share about
our industry. But, boy was it fun – Creative HEAD
publisher, Catherine Handcock, recalls her experience
“’It’s about time you got your roots done, love!’ shouted the driver of
the Ford Transit van as I made my way across the road to Curl Up
and Ky, the new pop-up salon designed by Ky Wilson, where I’d
booked in for a cut and colour. I did a double-take as I stepped
over the homeless girl sat hunched on the pavement – a trainee
hairdresser unable to live on an assistant’s wage. I had no idea
what I was letting myself in for on this chilly night in south
east London, but what I did know was that everything was
running late and I – like the dozens of others in the queue
to get in – was beginning to feel distinctly uncomfortable
about what was about to happen. As it turned out, with
good reason…
90
Bad start
“Pushing open the door to the salon, I
was met by chaotic scenes as receptionist
‘Elise’ juggled a steady stream of stylists
running late with clients trying to pay and
newly arriving guests needing to be dealt
with. An angry client with foils in her hair
roamed menacingly around complaining
loudly about how this salon had ruined her
colour and that if we had any sense we all
should leave immediately – it was Kathy
Burke meets Crimewatch’s Fiona Bruce.
I brought up the fact my appointment
was running 40 minutes
late, Elise responded with
a withering look and a
command to “take a seat”
in reception. And she called
me Cathy. No one calls me
Cathy. It makes my skin crawl.
I found a chair and buried
myself in a magazine
called Insecurity…
CREATIVE HEAD
91
#badsalon
Bad advice
“When I was called through it turned out my appointment
was with ‘Tallulah’, a hyper-intense, super-excitable stylist
who asked me lots of questions but didn’t listen to what
I had to say. She decided – despite my protestations,
but backed up by her gum-chewing colleagues – that
I should go ‘charcoal black’, and proceeded to apply
the colour to my head. I was completely unnerved.
This should not be happening, but it was. I stared in
amazement at what was going on around me. There was
hair all over the fl oor. Lipstick-stained coffee mugs and
half-eaten fruit in the work trolleys. Posters on the wall
promoting discounted colour appointments. A stylist,
‘Agata’, was slumped red-eyed in a chair, comatose
from a ‘heavy night out last night…’ I was taken to the
backwash where someone tipped a glass of water over
me. I asked about aftercare for my new colour. “Here’s
your aftercare,” said Tallulah and gave me a hug.
And so it ended. I emerged from Curl Up and Ky with
a £400 bill and a colour stain around my hairline. I
was surprised, maybe even in shock and possibly a
little bit angry. But then, Curl Up and Ky was always
trying to provoke a reaction – and that’s exactly
what happened. As more and
more ‘clients’ emerged from
the salon, our hideous
experiences were all we
could talk about – the
bleached towels, the
‘gone-off’ milk in the
coffee, the fact we’d been
recommended a product
that wasn’t available…
WANT TO SEE MORE #BadSalon?
Visit creativeheadmag.com for videos
and picture galleries!
92
Bad times
“And there were more thought-provoking
installations at the after-party – a poster
promoting terrible freelance bosses; two
hairstylists spraying a wig with fake hairspray
and wearing gas masks to highlight the toxic
work environment; ‘Pull Me’ hair extensions
protruding through a hole in the wall… and
attached to a girl on the other side, who
screamed every time someone gave her
hair a tug – raising questions over ethical
sourcing of hair extensions; a helium balloon
with the word ‘ego’ written on it just waiting
to be popped…
Good show!
“‘Something Sub-Standard’ was a brilliantly
quirky, tongue-in-cheek black comedy
highlighting aspects of the hairdressing
Build and set design Charlie Lambert-Smith, Otis Evans, Oliver Bailey, Ed Hanman, Sophie Simpson. #badsalon
experience actors Rafaella Hutchinson, Les Collins, Abby Thomas, Alexa Wall, Elise Roth, Shelley Sumner, Jenna Marie
Shafer, Tallulah Bond, Kevin Martin, Molly Gregorious, Rosie Barber, Agata Nielsen, Courtney Jones, Bella Peters, Flora
Riddle, Elbie van Eeden. Installation area Twinks Burnett, Alex Bowra, Tom Fallon, Jayde Collins, Luke Pluckrose
industry – a hideous carnival of bad service,
ridiculous product claims and exploitative
employment practices. By cleverly putting
real hairdressers into clients’ shoes, it
certainly achieved its aim of prompting
conversation. The question now is, will it
help to promote change?”
PSAs we all know, Ky Wilson is
all about collaborations. “Something Sub-
Standard” was presented by Creative HEAD
in an exclusive collaboration with BaByliss
PRO, and it’s worth noting that, as well as their
#badsalon experience, every client was treated
to a free bar, burgers from Burger Bear – and
a BaByliss PRO goody bag, presented by the
charming Elise on reception.
CREATIVE HEAD
93
Strutting that
@my.haircareofficial look
at @vinandomi A/W19
Blonde beauty @luci.bh
keeping things cool after her
colour refresh #myhaircare
All smiles with @rob-my.haircare (right)
in Singapore for the Sephora press tour
BTS sneak-peek during
#LFW with @vinandomi
In the
frame
Session stylist and educator
Denis Kovalyov, co-founder of
My.Haircare (@my.haircareofficial),
snaps away
On the road again for a
fun-filled day of education
#infusemycolour
SHOOT AND SEND Want to give us
a snapshot of your world? Tweet
us at @creativeheadmag now!
Had a great time with the
gorgeous @izaraaishahofficial
for our latest launch
@-rutheve serving cute
winter vibes – gorgeous,
golden locks! #repost
Stateside-bound for
@cosmoprofbeauty – there’s
always time for a catch up
with @erin-jahns
Hard at #werk backstage.
Vin - Omi always bring the
colour during #LFW
So excited to spend the day
at our Selfridges pop-up in
London #crueltyfreebeauty
94
CREATIVE HEAD
recommended by
97%
of uk
hairdressers*
BANISH BRASSINESS & ERASE DAMAGE
IN JUST 1 WASH
Unique bond-building Opti-PLEX technology makes hair 90% stronger in 1 use
Maximum strength violet micro-pigments knock out unwanted yellow tones
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FOR YOUR NEAREST DISTRIBUTOR, VISIT: FUDGEPROFESSIONAL.COM
*of 182 hairdressers surveyed at Colour World UK in May 2019, 177 recommended
*Launching February 2020
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