Edible San Diego Issue 57: Winter 2020

Connecting through food in San Diego County

NO. 57 • WINTER 2020

EDIBLESANDIEGO.COM

MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

WINTER

Nipplefruit

is the true story of fruits and vegetables

This

– the real world of farmers, researchers, chefs, foodies,

and more. The Specialty Produce App is an educational,

expository, live encyclopedia of fresh foods that you can

hold in the palm of your hand.

Just like taste buds, the Specialty Produce App evolves

with time. Our research is persistent, and we are everstriving

to bring the freshest and fullest information to the

table. Our comprehensive articles read like a tantalizing

menu, historical nonfiction, and a food lover’s guidebook

all in one, while our in-app gallery of magazine-worthy

food photos gives each produce item character.

Thousand Fingers Bananas

Put on your chef’s hat – whether you identify

as a professional chef, home chef, or chef

Boyardee – and let the applications section

sprout ideas for culinary quests. Sport your

Indiana Jones wide-brimmed fedora and

discover new produce items through detailed

descriptions and flavor profiles that allow your

tongue to give taste and texture to foods you

have never encountered. Finally, tighten your

bowtie and sharpen your pencil as you browse

our library of fresh food chronicles, indulging

on the rich history, culture, and current affairs

of each produce entry – and take your time

because there is a lot to digest.

Rapiah Rambutan

Still craving more? We would never leave

you with an empty plate! Within the

Specialty Produce App you will find our

ever-growing recipe collection where

you can build and save your own cookbook

for future kitchen endeavors. Want to

encourage diversity for your planet and

your palate? Branch out by exploring our

global in-app Share Market, where you can

discover unique items or specialty

marketplaces near you.

Bali Cacao

Download

the Specialty Produce App today

and discover your new favorite

fruit or vegetable.

Winter 2020

CONTENTS

Issue 57

ON THE COVER

The chefs called the dish

Chicken Fat Kills Rules:

buttermilk fried chicken

stuffed with white cheddar,

uni brioche French toast,

honey fat emulsion, and

chicken dashi reduction

syrup.

Find the recipe on

ediblesandiego.com.

THIS IMAGE

Hardwood-smoked

chicken with secret rub

and barbecue sauce.

Story starts on page 30.

IN THIS ISSUE

DEPARTMENTS

4 Publisher’s Note

LIVING LOCAL

6 Hot Dish, Liquid Assets,

Let’s Grow, Market Finds,

Food Tech, Events, In

Season

EATING WELL

12 A Cooler Way to Roast

GROWING GOOD

18 Cutting-Edge Fruits and

Vegetables

20 The Squeeze on Citrus

23 Fundamentals of Farming

FRIENDS WITH BENEFITS

30 Three Men and a Hen

STAYCATION

33 Eat, Drink, Bike, Repeat

LOCAL ATTRACTIONS

37 Around the Block, Check

This Out

38 Local Markets Guide

PREP

40 Golden Chai

FEATURES

Value of Food

PAGE 24

Locals Only

PAGE 25

SPECIAL REPORT

The Path to

Climate Neutrality

PAGE 27

WHAT TO LOOK FOR ON

EDIBLESANDIEGO.COM

Winter reading, recipes, and places to

eat only on our website.

READ

Vegan-Friendly Japanese • Like a

Local: Rancho Bernardo • Winter

Recipes • Grown in San Diego: A

Farmer’s Story

LISTEN

NEW Living Local Podcast

WATCH

Salt Roasting Recipes

Golden Chai 101

Valentine Apple Raspberry Tart

+ New recipe videos every week

plates from thewheelstoneware.com

OLIVIA HAYO

2 ediblesandiego.com

WINTER 2020 | edible SAN DIEGO 3

PUBLISHER’S NOTE |

Rooted and

Reaching for

Change

L

ike trees that silently, almost magically, exchange

gasses with the air and partner with a subterranean

community of microbes to share nutrients in the soil, we

humans are also rooted in and draw sustenance from our

surroundings. We’re rooted in our body and in this moment.

Like trees reach for the sky, offering beauty, shade, habitat,

pollen, fruit, and more, we each also have a lot to give as this

new year shines bright.

With all that is happening in the world, Edible San Diego

kicks off 2020 embracing a new seasonal approach to all

our editorial content, including four magazines that have

evolved into seasonal guides to living local, recipe videos, my

podcast, and new events that bring the culinary stories we

have chosen for you to life.

On the occasion of our mild Southern California winter, this

issue explores local citrus farming and offers cozy recipes for

salt roasting vegetables. Ramping up our collective literacy

about where our food comes from, we share a glossary on

farming practices and explain aquaponics (we won’t test you,

but you can impress friends and family). Here at Edible San

Diego, we invite you to think of food and indeed ourselves as

part of a system that relates to other systems, so we invited

Elly Brown, executive director of the San Diego Food System

Alliance, to ground us in how food and climate relate in

our region. We spotlight our local commercial fishers at the

Tuna Harbor Dockside Market, along with small restaurant

owners, each tackling big challenges to feed us. Lastly,

bringing it home, we offer a neighborhood guide to South

Park and sketch out the ideal staycation in Pacific Beach.

Thank you for your readership, which we view as an essential

conversation in our foodshed. We are what we eat, and we

are the change we’ve been waiting for. May this issue usher

in a new level of mindfulness, joy, and fellowship. Edible San

Diego wishes you a blossoming New Year as we nurture both

our roots and our reach.

Katie Stokes

Publisher, Edible San Diego


edible Communities

2011 James Beard Foundation

Publication of the Year


EDITORIAL

Katie Stokes

Editor in Chief

Maria Hesse

Managing Editor

Felicia Campbell

Executive Digital Editor

Olivia Hayo

Associate Editor

Dawn Mobley

Copy Editor

Annika Constantino

Assistant Social Media Editor

@ediblesd

@ediblesandiego

@ediblesandiego

DESIGN TEAM

Maria Hesse

Designer

Olivia Hayo

Visuals Editor

Lulu Yueming Qu

Illustrator

Haley Weisberger

Contributing Stylist

PUBLISHER

Katie Stokes

MARKETING

Nino Camilo

Event Curator

SALES

John Vawter

Trisha Weinberg

Scott White

ADVERTISING

For more information about rates and deadlines, contact

info@ediblesandiego.com 619-756-7292

No part of this publication may be used without written permission from

the publisher. © 2020 All rights reserved.

Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings, and omissions. If an

error comes to your attention, please let us know and accept our sincere

apologies. Thank you.

COVER PHOTO BY OLIVIA HAYO

CONTACT

Edible San Diego

P.O. Box 83549 • San Diego, CA 92138

619-756-7292 • info@ediblesandiego.com • ediblesandiego.com


LIVING LOCAL |

Hot Dish

Showcasing the

Seasons in Ramona

BY NOREEN KOMPANIK

F

resh produce, eggs, and chicken from local

farms and gardens and upgraded comfort

food is what you’ll find at Marinade on Main,

a country bistro located in Ramona’s historic

downtown.

Chef-owners Jessica and Travis Tan and their

dedicated staff bring smiles to their patrons, who

return time and again for the outstanding service,

seasonal fare, and regional wine selections.

Baked Cinnamon French Toast

This baked French toast entrée is so perfect, not

a drop of maple syrup is needed. Thick-sliced

bread is dipped in eggs and spices, then baked

and topped with homemade streusel, crème

anglaise, and candied walnuts.

Winter Quinoa Salad

Flavors and textures blend beautifully in a winter

salad representing the bounty of regional farms.

The salad combines grilled cauliflower, shredded

beets, baby heirloom tomatoes, arugula, almonds,

and quinoa, with a jalapeño vinaigrette dressing

that gives it an extra kick.

Herb-Fried Chicken

It's quite possible you've never had fried chicken

this good. A house favorite since 2016, chicken

is brined and slow cooked in a sous-vide water

bath with fresh herbs and lemon, then coated

in buttermilk and special seasonings and lightly

fried. Served alongside smashed potatoes and

seasonal vegetables, this crunchy and juicy

chicken will keep you coming back for more.

» marinadeonmain.com

Liquid Assets

Refreshing

Cannabis

BY JACKIE BRYANT

rinkable cannabis is the latest craze in the

D ever-buzzworthy cannabis industry. Thanks

to new technology, including techniques that

improve the onset of cannabinoid effects (i.e.,

it kicks in more quickly), many are saying that

drinking weed is the future. Here are three places

in San Diego that are doing it right.

molecules more rapidly, resulting in a faster-acting

high.

» tworootscannabis.com

Therapy Tonics

San Diego-based Therapy Tonics makes cannabisinfused

espresso, milk, and tea drinks in 1-ounce

to 4.20-ounce (get it?) bottles that each contain up

to a very punchy 120 milligrams of THC. With

flavors like coconut matcha, chai, and Mexican

mocha, drinkers will be sipping on a delicious

concoction that is also impeccably dosed and

sourced from high-quality ingredients.

» therapytonics.com

Two Roots Nonalcoholic

Cannabis-Infused Beer

On the heels of opening the brewery’s first tasting

room in Ocean Beach, Two Roots has created a

nonalcoholic, cannabis-infused beer that’s also

taking dispensaries by storm. Formally called a

cannabis craft beverage, the brew is dealcoholized

using special technology from Germany that

preserves the integrity of the ingredients during

alcohol removal while improving the taste. Two

Roots also employs a special nanoemulsion

technique that breaks down THC and CBD

Mr. Nice Guy

Madison on Park’s most famous cocktail, the

Mr. Nice Guy, made waves a couple of years ago

for being one of the first CBD cocktails sold in

San Diego. After a slap on the wrist from the

law in early 2019, they were required to take the

CBD out, but what remains is even tastier. The

updated version includes a hemp-infused vodka by

Humboldt Distillery, which lends a peppery and

sweet finish to this upmarket piña colada.

» madisononpark.com

Top: The winter salad at Marinade on Main in

Ramona will look different from the fall salad

with apple and pomegranate pictured here.

What will be the same is the restaurant's

commitment to showcasing locally grown

produce in a seasonal salad.

Above: Mr. Nice Guy got a recent makeover

with the addition of an organic, hemp-infused

vodka made by Humboldt Distillery on

Northern California's Redwood Coast.

NOREEN KOMPANIK, TOM WILLIAMS


| LIVING LOCAL

Let’s Grow

Fava Beans

BY BELINDA RAMIREZ

Used around the world as both an edible and

a cover crop, the fava bean (Vicia faba), or

broad bean, is one of the most ancient plants

in cultivation. It also happens to be among

the easiest to grow. This hearty plant likely

became part of the eastern Mediterranean diet,

particularly for the Romans and Greeks, around

6,000 BCE. As a cool-season crop, the fava

bean loves cooler temperatures and is perfect

for planting in January through March, with

harvest beginning in as early as 80 days. Favas

are a lovely addition to a raised bed garden, and

are also excellent nitrogen-fixers well suited as

a ground cover crop that promotes soil health.

Stalks grow between two to seven feet tall.

Packed with protein and fiber, young fava beans

and pods can be eaten raw or cooked, while

cooked older, bigger beans add a deliciously

creamy texture to any meal. The flowers not only

smell amazing but are also edible, and younger

leaves of the plant give a spinach-like spin to

your salad.

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LIVING LOCAL |

Market Finds

Finding the

Freshest Local

Catch

Left: You'll find rockfish easy

to clean. The mild flavor is

perfect for preparing light and

healthy ceviches.

BY KAY LEDGER

Below: Tilapia live and grow

in a recirculating aquaponics

system, both feeding from

and creating food for the

plants. The fish can be eaten

once they're large enough.

“The fish here is so fresh it’s still

wriggling,” said a man to a passerby as

he waited for the Tuna Harbor Dockside

Market to open. The market, which

features seafood caught by local fishing

boats, is located on the dock behind

Seaport Village on Saturdays from 8am

to 1pm.

» thdocksidemarket.com

FISHERMAN SPOTLIGHT

Fisherman Tristan Hayman is first mate

on the fishing vessel Bigfoot. He and

Captain Randy Hupp catch deepwater

rockfish using rod and reel for the

EcoLeeser booth. Hayman became a

commercial fisherman four years ago “to

pay for my fishing habit,” he says.

» ecoleeser.com

FOOD SPOTLIGHT

Jenn Sablan’s popular Island Life Foods

offers uni, briny lobes of the sea urchin.

She buys the urchins from local divers,

cracks and cleans them, then slips the

raw uni back into the shell. Also for sale

is tuna poke marinated Hawaiian-style,

or in a spicy sauce. “It’s all about the

taste of the fish,” Sablan says.

» ilnlyffoods.com

VENDOR SPOTLIGHT

Family-owned Saraspe Seafoods

specializes in lobster and spot prawns

when in season. They also catch crab and

fish such as bonito and ocean whitefish.

Sarah Saraspe says seafood that was

swimming in the water yesterday offers

better quality.

» saraspeseafoods.com

Food Tech

Aquaponics

Provides Promise

for San Diego’s

Food System

BY CHERIE GOUGH

Aquaponics is a sustainable farming method

that merges aquaculture and hydroponics.

Through an aquaponics recirculating system,

plants absorb nutrients provided by fish waste

and return clean water to the fish. Vegetables,

especially leafy greens, thrive in this pesticidefree

system, growing up to 25% faster than in

soil because nutrients in the water are constantly

available to roots. Since this method uses only

one-tenth of the water of conventional farming,

it’s ideal in urban areas with low water security,

like San Diego.

Ecolife Conservation’s Innovation Center is a

demonstration site in Escondido that last year

grew over 2,000 pounds of lettuce, cucumbers,

and tomatoes, which was all distributed to

Meals on Wheels, Produce for Patriots, and

Interfaith Community Services.

The nonprofit unveiled its newest urban system

at Franco on Fifth in Bankers Hill in September

2019. This system yields up to 108 heads of

lettuce every 33 days. Chef Flor Franco donates

the produce to family nutrition programs such

as Olivewood Gardens’ Cooking for Salud, and

she also hosts healthy cooking demonstrations

and aquaponics workshops.

Ecolife’s educational program teaches youth

about their role in the ecosystem and how to

grow sustainable, healthy foods. The program

develops engaging curriculum and donates

hundreds of 20-gallon growing systems to local

classrooms countywide. The organization also

recently partnered with Escondido’s COMPACT

program, installing an aquaponics system at the

facility to use as a living laboratory that benefits

at-risk youth from the juvenile justice system

and provides educational and job training.

You too can test the growing power of

aquaponics with an ECO-Cycle Aquaponics

Kit, or find more information about Ecolife’s

community programs and resources on their

website.

» ecolifeconservation.org

Find our list of food-related

nonprofits on ediblesandiego.com.

MARIA HESSE, LINN SPLANE FOR ECOLIFE


| LIVING LOCAL

Winter

Events

The Marine Room’s famous

High Tide Breakfast

combines a high-end buffet

(think truffle eggs Benedict

and smoked salmon) with

amazing ocean views.

Reservations available select

weekends through March 8.

» marineroom.com

BIGA’s fourth annual Hog Roast

and Harvest Celebration

will feature local farmers and

produce on January 11 from

noon to 3:30pm. Tickets are

$55, and 10% of proceeds

will be donated to the Chef’s

Celebration Foundation, a local

nonprofit that provides culinary

scholarships to aspiring San

Diego chefs.

» bigasandiego.com

Dine at a discount at more

than 180 diverse restaurants

located all over the county

during San Diego Restaurant

Week, January 19–26.

» sandiegorestaurantweek.com

Celebrate Chinese New Year

on January 25 and 26 with

crafts, cultural performances,

and tasty culinary specialties at

the House of China’s familyfriendly

festival in Balboa Park.

» sbalboapark.org

The seventh annual Zero

Waste Symposium will be

held on February 11 from 9am

to 5pm, with topics focusing on

environmental, economic, and

social impacts associated with

consumer waste. Registration

will include a light breakfast,

lunch, and networking reception

following the event.

» zerowastesandiego.org

Peruse the galleries at the

San Diego Museum of Art for

Culture & Cocktails: Flight

of Love on February 13. The

pre-Valentine evening event

will showcase Bouguereau

& America with works that

feature Cupid, his arrows, and

escapades.

» sdmart.org

Join Vanguard Culture for

Artist @ the Table on

February 29 with special guest

Jonathan Glus, executive

director for the Commission

for Arts and Culture. The 21+

fine dining event will feature

a menu prepared by chef

Danielle de la Puente and Valle

de Gaudalupe wine pairings

complete with a downtown

rooftop view.

» vanguardculture.com

More than 200 West Coast

breweries descend on

Embarcadero Marina Park

North for the Best Coast

Beer Festival on March 21.

The sudsy celebration is

followed by the Best Coast

Brunch Bash on March 22.

» bestcoastbeerfest.com

There's more to do on our calendar at ediblesandiego.com/event-list.

LOCAL FISH FROM

LOCAL FISHERMEN

Fresh Local Seafood on

the docks in Point Loma

1403 Scott Street,

San Diego

619-222-8787

www.mitchsseafood.com

• Best Chef Winner,

Accursio Lotà

• Best Wine List Winner

• 2017 Pasta World

Championship Winner,

Accursio Lotà

Local organic produce,

meat & seafood

Authentic Italian cuisine

Food, wine & spirits

pairing events

Patio dining

Dog friendly

2820 Roosevelt Road • Liberty Station, Point Loma • 619-270-9670 • solarelounge.com

KATHRYN CAUDLE


LIVING LOCAL |

In Season

The Best Season to

Eat Greens

BY MARIA HESSE

ILLUSTRATIONS BY LULU YUEMING QU

Asparagus

Freshly harvested asparagus is tender,

sweet, and ready to eat in under five

minutes. A fistful of asparagus spears will

satisfy many nutritional needs and support

healthy blood sugar levels. Try raw and

thinly sliced asparagus with chunks of feta,

a squeeze of lemon or blood orange juice,

and a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil with

salt and pepper to taste.

We can all lower our carbon footprint

simply by choosing to eat locally grown

fruits and vegetables in season. Benefits

include better flavor, higher nutritional

values, and supporting regional and

statewide growers. Look for these winter

gems at your neighborhood farmers’

market, in a CSA box, or at a grocery

retailer that buys direct from local farms.

Here's a list of what we get to eat during

the winter months.

Chard

Chard is as shiny as it is leafy and green.

A powerhouse source of vitamin K and

fiber, chard tastes best when served raw.

Remove the stalks, chop the leaves, and

lightly dress and massage with a little

extra-virgin olive oil and salt to enhance

flavors and soften for a salad.

Asparagus

Avocados

Beets

Broccoli

Brussels sprouts

Cabbage

Carrots

Cauliflower

Celery

Chard

Cherimoya

Citrus

Collards

Green peas

Kale

Kohlrabi

Medjool dates

Mushrooms

Mustard

Passion fruit

Scallions

Spinach

Star fruit

Strawberries

Turnips

Cherimoya

The green-skinned cherimoya is rich in

vitamins B6 and C and offers a healthy

dose of magnesium with tropical flavors

reminiscent of coconut, pineapple, and

banana. Select ripe cherimoyas that are

slightly soft under the skin, similar to a

ripe avocado. Use a sharp knife to split it

open, scoop out the white flesh, and avoid

ingesting the toxic black seeds.

Scallions

Scallions (or green onions) carry a more refined flavor than their onion

relatives. Look for delicate and slim green shoots with sturdy white bases.

Slice the green part thinly to impart more flavor and add a handful to a tuna

or bean salad sandwich mix to make lunchtime more interesting. Bonus: One

cup of scallions offers twice the daily recommended adult dose of vitamin K.

Spinach

Dark green spinach leaves will give

your skin, nails, and hair a glowing

boost. This low-calorie superfood

originated in Persia, and makes for

a delicious salad raw or a hearty

addition to soups and stews.

Search for seasonal recipes by ingredient on ediblesandiego.com.



EATING WELL |

A Cooler Way to Roast

Why we're saying yes to salt


| EATING WELL

BY HALEY WEISBERGER

RECIPES AND STYLING BY OLIVIA HAYO

AND HALEY WEISBERGER

PHOTOGRAPHS BY OLIVIA HAYO

As San Diegans, we know a thing or two

about salt. We taste it on our upper lips after a day at the

beach, on the rims of our margaritas, and atop our flaky fish

tacos. We feel it in the air on humid days and smell it as we

drive up and down the coast. We crave it, and understandably

so—salt is a necessity and is hands down the most important

ingredient in the kitchen. It plays a vital role in the creation of

flavorful food and in keeping our bodies running, helping to

maintain blood pressure, hydration, and proper nutrition.

Salt (or saltiness) is one of the five basic tastes that stimulate

and are perceived by our taste buds, alongside sweet, sour,

bitter, and umami. Cooking is essentially the art of balancing

these five tastes, with salt playing a crucial role. Salt minimizes

bitterness and balances sweetness and acidity. It deepens

aromas, making food more flavorful. It draws out moisture,

transforms textures, preserves, and even brightens color.

Salt Roasting 101

Salt is (or should be) used in every cooking preparation,

whether it be boiling, sautéing, or roasting. Most of these

preparations call for a sprinkling, a pinch, a handful, or a

few tablespoons of salt. Salt roasting ups the ante. Home

cooks tend to be wary of salt and often underseason dishes,

resulting in bland, sad meals. With salt roasting, a shallow

bed of coarse-grain salt, such as kosher, is laid along the

bottom of a baking vessel. Root vegetables, potatoes, and

the like are nestled in the small crystals and popped into a

preheated oven to roast. The bed of salt evenly conducts heat,

insulates whatever is roasting, and seasons—a triple whammy.

The amount of salt used will seem excessive; it might even

scare you. Fear not. What’s left is a thing of beauty: perfectly

seasoned, crispy-on-the-outside, creamy-on-the-inside

goodness. We promise!


EATING WELL |

BEFORE ROASTING ROOT VEGETABLES, LEAVE THE SKINS ON AND SOAK

WHOLE VEGETABLES IN A LARGE BUCKET OF WATER WITH A DASH OF

WHITE VINEGAR TO DISINFECT AND REMOVE EXCESS DIRT.

Spice It Up

Take it to the next level by adding hearty herbs like rosemary, thyme, or bay

leaves and aromatics like garlic or ginger to your salt base to pack extra punch.

Have fun with it! Mix and match to make your own special blend. When you

are through roasting, don’t toss that salt. Use the leftover salt in a vinaigrette

for your seasonal salad, to brine a roast, or in another round of salt-roasted

veggies. Though salt may harden from its time in the oven, you can use the

back of a spoon to break the salt into smaller granules then transfer to an

airtight container. Some of the salt sticking to your pan? No big deal, it will

quickly dissolve in warm water.

Worth Their Salt

Crackly, crusty skins and buttery-soft interiors make this cooking method

worth its salt. Literally. Show off the unique cooking method by bringing your

baking dish straight to the table. The contrast of roasted vegetables against the

blanket of snowy white salt and herbs will turn heads, evoking oohs and ahhs.

Dust off any excess salt sticking to your vegetables and dig in. Pair salt-roasted

veggies with your favorite sauce or creamy dip, and voilà, you have the perfect

side dish for your winter spread.


EATING WELL |

Five Kinds of Salt

| EATING WELL

Table Salt

Often called granular salt, this variety comes from salt mines and is

the most common. The granules have a uniform and distinct cubic

shape that's small and dense, making it super salty. It’s processed

to remove impurities, and anti-caking agents are added to prevent

clumping. Iodine is also often added, which can impart a slight

metallic taste. This is a fine and cheap option for everyday cooking,

but we suggest you leave it on the table.

Kosher Salt

Named for its use in koshering, the Jewish tradition of quickly removing

blood from meat, this salt is pure and contains no additives. Kosher salt is

inarguably the favorite cooking salt among chefs because of its clean taste

and coarse, craggy crystals, which makes it easy to pick up, sprinkle, and

adhere to foods. It is inexpensive, forgiving, and ideal for everyday cooking.

Use it in your spice rub, to season pasta water, or to roast vegetables.

Flaked Sea Salt

Light with a delightful crunch, flaked sea salts universally spark joy.

The flakes occur naturally as seawater evaporates, making these salts

labor-intensive to harvest and pricier than table or kosher salt. Fleur de

sel, Maldon, and the like are truly special—basically the caviar of salts—

because they cost a pretty penny. Sprinkle sparingly as finishing salt to

add texture and a burst of flavor as a garnish on toast, salad, and on top

of warm chocolate chip cookies.

Colored Sea Salt

Pink Himalayan salt, Hawaiian black lava salt, and sel gris (gray salt) are a few

of the colorful salts that pick up unique hues and distinct flavors from minerals

found in the seas where they are harvested. These salts are special, pricey, and

should be used as finishing salts. The pop of color enhances presentation, so

look for ways to add some drama .

Infused Salt

Salt that has been infused with herbs, spices, etc. You can buy them

premade or make your own (maybe by salt roasting!?). Salt Farm,

a local maker of infused salts, shows us that the possibilities are

endless… smoked salt, garlic salt, wasabi-sesame salt, even truffle

salt. Use the flavor profiles of infused salts to boost the flavors

already occurring in dishes, like smoked salt for grilled meats and

zingy lemon salt for crispy-skinned fish or roast chicken.


Salt-Roasted

Potatoes with Herby

Salsa Verde

SERVES 4

2 cups kosher or table salt

6–8 fresh or dried bay leaves

1 pound baby or fingerling

potatoes

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 cups finely chopped herbs

of your choice (we used ¼

cup each dill, mint, parsley,

and chives)

Juice of 1 orange

Juice and zest of 1 lemon

Preheat oven to 425°.

Pour salt into a baking dish or

cast-iron pan.

Nestle bay leaves and

potatoes evenly in the bed of

salt. Pierce through the skin of

each potato with a toothpick

or the tip of a paring knife

for steam to release. Roast

until potato skins are wrinkly

and crisp and the insides

are tender, 30 to 40 minutes.

Reserve bay salt for another

use.

While potatoes roast, make

salsa verde. In a large mixing

bowl, whisk together olive oil,

chopped herbs, orange juice,

and lemon juice and zest.

Season with salt to taste.

When potatoes are done,

remove from salt bed and

transfer to the mixing bowl

with salsa verde. Toss to coat,

salt to taste using leftover bay

salt, and serve warm.

Salt-Roasted Beets

with Caraway-Chile

Oil and Yogurt Dip

SERVES 4


2 tablespoons caraway seeds,

divided

1 pound beets, scrubbed and

trimmed

¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes

3 tablespoons extra-virgin

olive oil

½ cup full-fat Greek yogurt

Juice and zest of 1 lemon


Place salt and 1 tablespoon

caraway seeds in a baking

dish or cast-iron pan.

Arrange beets on the bed

of caraway salt. Roast until

tender, 50 to 60 minutes. If

desired, peel skin. Reserve

caraway salt for another use.

While beets roast, make the

caraway-chile oil and yogurt

dip. Steep 1 tablespoon

crushed caraway seeds

and the red pepper flakes

in olive oil in a small pan

over medium-low heat until

warm and fragrant, about 10

minutes.

In a medium bowl, mix yogurt

with lemon juice and zest and

a pinch of salt. Drizzle lemon

yogurt with caraway-chile oil.

Serve beets over a big swoosh

of yogurt and chile oil or serve

on the side for dipping.


| EATING WELL

Salt-Roasted Carrots and

Radishes with Harissa-Honey

Glaze

SERVES 4


8 cloves garlic, skin on

1 pound carrots and radishes

½ cup honey

1 tablespoon harissa


Spread salt evenly into the bottom of a

baking dish or cast-iron pan.

Nestle skin-on garlic cloves, carrots, and

radishes into the salt bed. Roast until

tender, 25 to 30 minutes. Reserve salt for

another use.

In a mixing bowl, whisk together honey

and harissa. (Prefer milder flavors? Use a

little less harissa. Like it spicy? Add a little

more harissa.)

Toss roasted carrots, radishes, and garlic

with a few spoonfuls of harissa-honey

glaze and serve warm.

Salt-Roasted Lemons with

Rosemary and Thyme

MAKES 4 CUPS


5 lemons, cut into thick rounds

1 handful fresh rosemary sprigs

1 handful fresh thyme sprigs


Add salt to bottom of a baking dish or

cast-iron pan.

Arrange lemon slices, rosemary, and

thyme into the bed of salt. Roast for 20 to

25 minutes.

Use roasted lemons as you would

preserved lemons: Blend them into

vinaigrettes, add them chopped to

sauces, or stew them whole in your

favorite tagine.

HUNGRY FOR MORE?

We publish new seasonal recipes every

week. Get inspired at ediblesandiego.com.

HEARTY Farro Salad with Pickled Apples

By Olivia Hayo • Winter Citrus and Radicchio

Salad with Poppy Seeds By Haley Weisberger •

Box Crab Bisque By Dan Major

FIVE WAYS TO COOK WITH

Brussels Sprouts, Cauliflower, and Oranges


GROWING GOOD |

Cutting-Edge

Fruits and

Vegetables

BY KATIE STOKES

What began as La Jolla Produce, a small,

family-owned produce store in 1970, has grown

under the leadership of brothers Bob, Richard,

and Roger Harrington into one of San Diego’s

most well-known food brands. Specialty Produce

(the name changed in 1990) now delivers to over

600 restaurants seven days a week and serves the

public in a sprawling retail and wholesale food

hub located on Hancock Street that functions as

part warehouse, part museum, and part culinary

wonderland.

Now more than ever before, professional chefs

and home cooks aspire to get their hands on

produce from around the globe any time of year.

This is true even for those of us fortunate enough

to live, cook, and eat in a year-round paradise for

locally grown, caught, and crafted food and beverages.

For those times when we desire global variety,

Specialty Produce has an app for that: Twenty-five

years in the making, the app puts the whole world

of produce on your smartphone.

As Specialty Produce’s early-days web editor

Joan Sonntag put it, “Who would've thought

a little produce stand would become a leader

in technology in the distribution of fruits and

vegetables?!” Roger’s vision for tech in the early

1980s led him to develop their early information

system, and the team created an extensive website

with online ordering as early as 1996. Today,

in their checkout area, you can’t miss their

40-by-80-foot Jumbotron screen, which they

liken to an ESPN highlight reel about the local

food scene. They run a community podcast

network hosting 15 podcasts from an on-site

studio, including Edible San Diego’s Living Local.

Specialty Produce showcases their restaurant

customers' ingredients, food, and experiences

through their DineLocal website, podcast, and

social media channels. They have a state-of-the-art

commercial kitchen set up for multimedia and a

food waste recovery system, called Waste Not SD,

or restaurant chefs.

Even as their tech prowess reaches beyond

what most produce distribution companies aspire

to, Specialty stays grounded by offering a variety

of organics, locally grown produce, and locally

made food products as well as a broad array of

produce, spices, condiments, bulk items, and

other ingredients too numerous to mention.

Home cooks can access these goods with a weekly

farmers’ market box—a customizable mix of

produce and artisan food products—or explore

Specialty Produce’s cavernous facility while

rubbing shoulders with notable chefs from across

the county.

Bob's curiosity became the globe-trotting

research that makes Specialty’s inventory and

database unique anywhere. Having traveled to

so many countries in search of produce that he

groups them by continent, he’s identified and

documented well over 1,000 fruits and vegetables

new to him or the San Diego market. This led

to the production of what Specialty describes

simply as The Book, a foot-high tome containing

“the world’s most comprehensive and growing

compilation of over 3,000 varieties of fruits and

vegetables.”

A living legacy culminating Bob’s life work, the

app is a handheld version of The Book, updated

daily with information and links to an archive of

over 15,000 recipes. You can browse for something

new, keep personal notes about favorite produce,

share prized recipes, and, most notably, the app

can even show you where to buy specific fresh

ingredients.

As a home cook or a pro, we may know that

our health and the planet’s reflects what we cook

and eat every day—but sometimes so many

choices feels overwhelming. Specialty Produce and

their new app brings a world of information to

our fingertips and around the corner. This helps

us make more informed choices about what’s on

our plate.

Now that’s smart. s



GROWING GOOD |

THE SQUEEZE ON CITRUS

BY PAUL HORMICK

Immortalized in orange crate art and the detective stories of Raymond

Chandler, the citrus industry of Southern California is an important part of

San Diego County’s history, culture, and economy.

Today, citrus constitutes one of the largest sectors of San Diego County’s

agricultural output. Among our top 10 annual crops are lemons, at over $70

million a year, and oranges, at more than $43 million. Other local citrus

production includes grapefruit, limes, and tangerines.

Andy Lyall, along with his brother Tim, is a fourth-generation citrus farmer,

growing mostly oranges, as well as avocados. Their father Warren still has a

hand in running the family’s Rancho Monte Vista orchard, which occupies

250 acres in Pauma Valley.

“We only use groundwater, and water is our most precious resource,” says

Andy Lyall. To save water, the Lyalls employ drip irrigation as well as a micro

sprinkler system. They plan to upgrade further to a subsurface irrigation

system. “Water goes right into the ground, eliminating the loss of water due to

surface evaporation,” Lyall says. As electricity to power the pumps is a big fixed

cost, 10 years ago the Lyalls converted an acre of their land to solar panels to

power their pumps. The panels save the farm $75,000 a year.

Pests remain a challenge for local citrus farmers. Currently, growers are girding

against the Asian citrus psyllid, a sap-sucking insect first found in the US in

Florida in 1998. The insect itself is not detrimental to citrus, but the psyllid

serves as a vector for huanglongbing (citrus greening disease), a bacteria that is

fatal to citrus trees.

The psyllid has devastated the citrus crops of Florida. The pest has also been

found in Los Angeles County, Orange County, and outside Tijuana, but so far,

San Diego County has been safe.


ALEXANDRA RAE DANELL, LJUBAPHOTO

Lyall explains that local farmers have kept the

psyllid at bay through voluntary cooperation,

with all of the farmers doing their part to protect

against the pest. The farmers have also set up a

pest control district. The district works as a type of

carrot-and-stick banking system for the farmers:

The district taxes the farmers and then uses the tax

dollars to reimburse the farmers when they treat

their crops for the psyllid.

Like other farmers, Lyall has spoken up about the

trials of keeping pace with paperwork and state

regulations. According to the Citrus Research

Board, an industry group that advocates for

California farmers, environmental regulations—

those not associated with groundwater

sustainability—increase costs by $67 per acre of

citrus. The same report claims that new labor

requirements could raise costs by as much as $357

an acre.

Much of where San Diegans live used to be

citrus groves. Photographs from 1910 show

orchards as far as the eye can see in Chula Vista.

The landscape was similar in Lemon Grove, El

Cajon, and other parts of the county that are now

suburbia.

As houses and development spread, some farmers

moved production to the desert of Borrego.

Hal Seley established Seley Ranch in Borrego in

1957. On 370 acres the ranch produces lemons,

tangerines, and grapefruit, including the ranch’s

signature Seley red grapefruit, which is prized for

its sweetness.

Hal’s son Jim started working on the ranch in

1964, and he now manages the ranch with his son

Mike. The Seleys are known for innovation; they

installed solar panels and have used drip irrigation

for the past 50 years.

Despite water-saving efforts, groundwater on

which the Borrego farms rely has been declining

for decades, as much as two feet a year and 125

feet in total. Agriculture uses about 70% of the

water drawn from the aquifer.

State regulations may require a reduction of as

much as 75% on the draw of the Borrego aquifer.

Despite the threat of cutbacks, Jim Seley plans on

keeping his farm in Borrego. “For ourselves, the

orchard is personal. I was raised spending time

in Borrego Springs and have become personally

attached to the land and the town,” he says.

Keeping the farm may entail farming fewer acres.

The future for our citrus industry may be seen in

the efforts of Dennis Selder and George Tubon.

The two San Diego natives plan on farming 10

acres in Dulzura. The rural community has had a

climate conducive to vineyards, not citrus, which

needs a moderate, frost-free zone. But, Selder

points out, “We’re banking on climate change.

The number of frost days is decreasing.”

The partners emphasize their commitment to the

environment and plan to create a quality habitat

made up of native plants that will benefit local

animals as well. It will also include a house that

is environmentally suitable to the landscape.

They see production growing finger limes up and

running in two years. “Nothing tastes better in a

gin and tonic than a finger lime,” Selder says. s

Top: Trees full of still-green

fruit at Monte Vista

Orchard, a 250-acre

citrus and avocado farm.

Middle: The Lyall family is

the fourth generation to

farm citrus in Pauma

Valley.

Right: The signature fruit

of Borrego Springs is the

red grapefruit grown at

Seley Ranch.

| GROWING GOOD



| GROWING GOOD

Fundamentals of Farming

A Quick and Dirty Glossary

BY ANNELISE JOLLEY

COASTAL ROOTS FARM

Even the most knowledgeable and food-conscious among us can feel

hesitant when using terms like permaculture, biodynamic farming, and

regenerative agriculture.

We’ve put together a glossary of farming fundamentals and suggestions for

where to find local examples. Whether you’re starting a farm, a backyard

garden, or are just plain curious about where your food comes from, read on.

We all benefit from learning more about farming the soil that sustains us and

how to keep it healthy.

Biodynamic

Buried cow horns and lunar cycles—yep, that’s biodynamic farming for you.

Based on the ideas of Dr. Rudolf Steiner, biodynamics integrates science with

“a recognition of spirit in nature.” A biodynamic farm or garden promotes

biodiversity, builds soil fertility (with a focus on compost), and works in

conjunction with the earth’s rhythms. Want to support local biodynamics?

Consider a CSA subscription to Odd Trees Biodynamic Farm in Fallbrook.

Conventional

It’s too bad this growing practice is called conventional; for millennia, the

conventional way to grow food meant no chemical additives. Today, however,

conventional growing methods employ synthetic inputs like fertilizers,

pesticides, and herbicides. Conventional can also refer to the use of genetically

modified organisms, monoculture, or intensive tilling.

Organic

Organic produce is grown without synthetic fertilizers, pesticides, or

genetically modified seeds. Many small farms use organic practices, but

because the certification process is lengthy and expensive, their produce doesn’t

always display the certified organic seal. Your local farmers’ market is a great

choice for picking up local, organic food—or buy direct from a farm stand at

Cyclops Farms, Chino Farms’ Vegetable Shop in Rancho Santa Fe, or the Farm

Stand West in Escondido.

Permaculture

The principles of permaculture boil down to one idea: holistic integration

of natural forces (air, soil, sunlight, moisture) to create a self-sustaining

system. The term is a mashup of the words permanent and agriculture, which

hints at permaculture’s goal of creating closed-loop systems. To see a local

example, visit Coastal Roots Farm’s food forest in Encinitas, where trees grow

symbiotically alongside other crops.

Regenerative

Regenerative agriculture serves the dual purpose of building healthy soil and

sequestering carbon. Wild Willow Farm in the Tijuana River Valley is on a

mission to train the next generation of farmers and gardeners in cutting-edge

regenerative growing techniques, and their workshops are excellent venues to

learn regenerative practices such as vermicomposting and no-till practices from

local experts.


FEATURE |

Value of Food

Survival of the Small

Eateries

BY THEODORE R. NIEKRAS

On the surface, San Diego is experiencing a food

renaissance, our local scene having attracted

big-name chefs, Michelin ratings, and, of course,

money.

Having lived all over the world, from New York

City to Seattle, North Carolina, Ft. Lauderdale,

and Miami to Japan, China, and Indonesia, I’d

seen this before. And having worked in almost

every restaurant position, from server to cook to

management, fast-casual to the ultra-high-end, it

excites me to see San Diego finally come into its

own.

In other cities, I witnessed the boom, the

subsequent retail deserts and empty storefronts,

chainification, and whitewashing, with even the

best venues closing after being priced out of their

own neighborhoods by the money machine that

followed. So, it’s natural for me to feel nervous

about this rise, given the recent closures of beloved

neighborhood joints like the Land & Water Co. in

Carlsbad, the Wooden Spoon in Escondido, and

others.

I started asking people on the front lines about

the current challenges they face. I spoke to small

business owners and operators that have solid

establishments providing value and character to

the neighborhoods they serve including Eddie

Okino of health-focused Second Nature in Pacific

Beach and Chicago-style Working Class in North

Park, Francis Weidinger and Natalie Buczkowski

of quirky University Heights Mystic Mocha, and

a handful of other San Diego-based restaurateurs.

For most of them, the bust seems precariously

near. Margins are thinning, rents are climbing, and

landlords are holding out for chains that pay more.

Third-party delivery services like Doordash disrupt

service, erase margins, and constantly screw up

orders. Prices are too low, and the cost of labor is

too high.

“That’s the elephant in the room,” says Okino,

“labor [costs] chipping away versus people wanting

to be fair [to their staff].”

In part, this is because California has taken a

peculiarly myopic stance on labor with a oneminimum-wage-fits-all

approach. Restaurants get

taxed on tips that aren’t counted as wages, and

until recently, restaurants couldn’t pool and share

tips with kitchen staff.

Weidinger explains, “In this industry model, most

of your people are working for tips, so therefore

they get minimum wage. When we started, it was

Tacos at Second Nature in Pacific Beach.

$9 and now it’s $12, soon to be $15. That’s about

30–40% of our bottom line just gone.”

Furthermore, labor costs are passed down the

supply chain. “When these warehouses get hit

again with minimum [wage increases]—it’s all

getting passed off. That could single-handedly

change the entire restaurant model. That scares

me,” says Okino.

Costs, then, will disproportionately pass onto

smaller restaurants and groups that lack the

economy of scale of conglomerates. Smaller

establishments have narrower profit margins,

and those costs will be passed onto consumers,

causing demand to suffer. When high-profile

restaurant groups in larger markets attempted to

eliminate tipping and pay all staff fair wages by

raising prices, sales declined, servers left, and most

restaurants quietly returned to tipping within a

year.

Rents have also increased, and an unexpected

rent increase or refusal to renew a lease can be

devastating to a small business. Weidinger says

if rents go up much more, he might be forced

to move. Because of these trends, restaurants are

partnering and becoming their own landlords by

purchasing their spaces when they can.

“I’ve seen a very big trend towards corporate and

franchising, all groups, low-end and high-end,”

says Weidinger.

Okino is one such example. He partnered up

after opening his first venture, Turquoise Coffee,

and created Working Class and Second Nature

with that partnership. Soon they’ll open another

concept in Clairemont. Although diversifying and

partnering reduces risk, it sacrifices autonomy and

creates another barrier to entry for new players.

There are other creative solutions at work,

including small service charges, rents based

on sales, handheld POS systems, and even call

buttons that support staff efficiency without

replacing all of them. Touch screens have replaced

counter staff at chains and even some private

restaurants. In Las Vegas, two robot arms mix

a variety of cocktails from 100 different liquors

while patrons order from tablets surrounding their

glass enclosure. And most of the restaurant and bar

waitstaff at Philadelphia International and Newark

Liberty airports have been replaced by tablets and

kiosks.

Owners will tell you these devices can work

nonstop and never screw up an order. These

devices also don’t talk or ask questions. They don’t

give you the methodology behind why they added

an ingredient, and they don’t joke. They don’t

foster the socialization that humans crave most.

What 20th-century author William Burroughs

referred to as the money machine lends a

metaphor for the modern perils of owning a

restaurant in 2020. The money machine extracts

wealth, treats humans as data, and lures people

with the convenience of quantity over quality.

While you’re a commodity to the money machine,

to local establishments you’re a person, maybe

even a friend. They love doing what they do—for

you. That’s the difference.

“We’re not here to make it rich,” says Weidinger.

“It’s a lot of work. A lot of fun. But you’d hate

yourself if you didn’t do it. I love these people.”

Surviving as an independent restaurant takes guts,

blood, sweat, and tears. Some might say they’re

crazy for trying. All the inputs are increasingly

expensive and the competition for customers more

fierce. Talent, passion, and drive are necessary

ingredients for success. Many thanks should go

out to these die-hards tackling the intricacies of

new labor laws and the promises of technology,

somehow managing to source locally as much as

possible, cook from scratch, and price the dish

right. For all of us as readers and eaters, if we care

as much, there’s a very simple way for us to show

it. s

CHRIS TRAN


| FEATURE

Locals Only Neighborhood Eats

ILLUSTRATIONS BY LULU YUEMING QU

In a city where longstanding eateries constantly compete with shiny, trendy newcomers for business, it’s a notable feat when old favorites hold their own in a

decidedly fickle dining scene. Luckily, good food speaks for itself. That’s why these five neighborhood institutions continue to be top contenders for San Diego’s

most beloved restaurants.

North

Fat Ivor’s

By Robin Dohrn-Simpson

Valley Center in northern San Diego has pastoral

fields, a panoramic view of Palomar Mountain,

and since 1981, Fat Ivor’s Rib Rack. This all-youcan-eat

restaurant enjoys full support from locals

who love their food.

Owner Fred Yousefi said, “My two chefs have

been here for 35 years. They’re hardworking,

loyal, and love doing their job. They want to make

good barbecue. Our menu is tried and true—

Baby back ribs, slow-roasted prime rib, and pork

chops are the main draw.”

Yousefi plans on adding lighter fare to the menu

for people who want to eat less. “We’ll offer a

two-rib and a five-rib dinner. We’re also going to

be adding two salads: a Mediterranean salad and

a roasted beet and arugula salad.”

When you visit, don’t forget to try the original

BBQ sauce.

» fativors.com

South

Red House Kitchen

By Lucila DeAlejandro

Bethany Case purchased the Red House Kitchen

in 2017 because she had a vegan husband, lived

in a food desert, and wanted to stay in Imperial

Beach. She transformed it into a Best of Imperial

Beach-winning, Surfrider Foundation Ocean

Friendly Restaurant that embraces locals and

service members from the nearby military base.

RHK features many gluten-free and vegan

options alongside sandwiches with clever names

like Cake by the Ocean, a panini with housemade

chocolate ganache, banana, and peanut butter,

and the house specialty Donax Don’t Tell, a bacon,

Black Forest ham, and pastrami tower on tangy

sourdough covered with

béchamel. Ryan Bros

coffee complements

in-house baker Lupe

Moreno’s rotating

specialties, like strawberry

green tea muffins topped

with matcha frosting and

slivered almonds.

Visit RHK for breakfast and lunch seven days a

week. The Neat Underground Dinner popups

Thursday through Sunday evenings feature a

monthly rotation of seasonally themed menus.

Chef Alynn Emily emphasizes bold and provincial

flavors with produce from W.D. Dickinson Farm

that's worth checking out.

» redhouseib.com

East

Narumi Sushi

By Kay Ledger

Narumi Sushi is a no-nonsense establishment

in a simple La Mesa strip mall. On a Saturday

night, expect to find a long line waiting outside

for a table or seats at the sushi bar. Inside,

the crowded room buzzes as patrons devour

Japanese-American classics from sushi to

teriyaki, tempura to rice bowls, and satisfying

yakisoba noodles.

Garlic green beans are a nice start, or try the

grilled Spam musubi wrapped with a thin strip

of seaweed. Oyster appetizers are prepared fried

or on the half shell, or opt for the takoyaki—a

deep-fried octopus snack. According to owner

and sushi chef Ippei Kishida, a sushi favorite is

the maki maki roll, with salmon, cream cheese,

and avocado inside, and yellowtail tuna outside.

The seared smoked salmon roll with grilled eel is

divine, while the Louisiana roll sports a hot Cajun

seasoning. The fresh bigeye tuna will satisfy

sashimi cravings. Be sure to finish with the green

tea cheesecake.

» narumisushisd.com

West

Tony’s Jacal

By Kay Ledger

Tony’s Jacal is your dad’s favorite oldfangled

Mexican restaurant and bar, the kind every

San Diegan of a certain age loved as a

kid. Who could resist their stained-glass

bullfighters, vivid pottery, wooden beams, and

wild red sun sculpture? It’s convivial with a

solid menu that’s been serving Mexican food

in Solana Beach for over 70 years.

The food is robust with classics like tamales,

enchiladas, tacos, and

burritos. Meatier options

include carne asada, fajitas,

and beef, pork, or seafood

chiles. The salsa is garlicky,

the beans are flavorful,

and the pork chile verde is

prepared with both green and

yellow chiles. The turkey tamale, a surprising

menu item, is made with tender masa and

steamy shredded turkey and comes dressed

in a rustic sauce. Try the chicken mole in a red

sauce thick with chocolate, chile, and spices, or

the green version, a blend of tomatillos, chiles,

and peanuts.

» tonysjacalsd.com

Central

Bankers Hill Bar + Restaurant

By Kai Oliver-Kurtin

After nearly a decade in business, neighborhood

haunt Bankers Hill Bar + Restaurant has proven it

can stand the test of time. Although the modern

American restaurant has a core group of dishes

that go unchanged—including the revered BH

burger and not-to-miss butterscotch pudding—

most menu items are updated seasonally.

Executive chef Carl Schroeder (also at Del Mar’s

Market Restaurant

+ Bar) and chef de

cuisine Justin Braly

serve up thoughtfully

prepared plates like

Mexican-inspired skirt

steak with polenta and

crispy beer-battered

fish & chips made

with sea bass. During cooler months, starters

including carrot soup with smoky andouille

sausage and the creamy burrata with glazed

pears, toasted hazelnuts, and buttery toast serve

as elevated comfort food.

Despite its industrial design, the dining room and

patio maintain an intimate setting with rustic-chic

decor, making it an ideal spot for both date night

and happy hour.

» bankershillsd.com


Get the tools & connections

you need to run a successful

farm business!

Gain business &

leadership skills

Hear from notable

speakers

Make lasting

friendships


Women’s Conference

January 19-21, 2020

Catamaran Resort Hotel and Spa | San Diego, California

Visit NFU.org/WomensConference to learn more

| SPECIAL REPORT

THE PATH TO CLIMATE NEUTRALITY IS PAVED

WITH FOOD SYSTEM SOLUTIONS

BY ELLY BROWN

As a mother, ensuring the habitability of our planet has become the single most important issue of the next decade to me. If we don’t fix this

problem, all of our societal issues will be exacerbated, further threatening global peace and prosperity. As the executive director of the San

Diego Food System Alliance, what empowers me is that our mission statement—cultivating a healthy, sustainable, and just food system in

San Diego County—offers a way forward.

We have ignored the implications of climate change for several decades despite the detailed warnings of scientists and the accumulation of

weather-related disasters. Three recent Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC) special reports have warned that:

1. We have about 12 years to avoid 1.5°C of warming from preindustrial levels.

2. The potential risk of multi-breadbasket failure is increasing.

3. Human activities are fundamentally reshaping the oceans.

Six IPCC assessments, four US national assessments, four California assessments, and thousands of articles all point in the same direction:

long-term emergency.

Global food system activities—harvesting, land clearing, transporting, processing, and landfilling—are major drivers of climate change and

are particularly vulnerable to weather-related events.

Investing in community food systems and the resiliency of our region is more important now than ever.


SPECIAL REPORT |

US BILLION-DOLLAR WEATHER EVENTS AND CLIMATE DISASTERS 1980–2019

16 WILDFIRES

$80.4 B

26 DROUGHTS

$284.4 B

42 CYCLONES

$934.6 B

109 SEVERE

STORMS

$238.8 B

31 FLOODS

$126 B

17 WINTER

STORMS

$49.2 B

9 FREEZING

EVENTS

$30.4 B

Source NOAA National Centers for Environmental Information (NCEI) US Billion-Dollar Weather and Climate Disasters (2019). https://www.ncdc.noaa.gov/billions/

Confronting Climate Change

Carbon dioxide levels are currently at the

highest levels in human history (408.86 parts

per million). Total US greenhouse gas emissions

(GHG) increased 1.3% from 1990 to 2017 and

agriculture is the fourth largest contributor (8%

of GHG emissions). California’s GHG emissions

actually decreased from 2000 to 2017, largely

due to the increasing use of renewable energy to

generate electricity, demonstrating some hope for

progress. When observing data broadly, various

global food systems including deforestation

for industrial agricultural use, transportation,

processing and packaging, freezing and retail, and

waste contribute to anywhere from 21–50% of

global GHG emissions.

Globally, agricultural and food system activities

generate tonnes of GHG emissions and these

systems will be uniquely impacted by climate

change. According to the fourth National Climate

Assessment by the US Global Change Research

Program, “Rising temperatures, extreme heat,

drought, wildfire on rangelands, and heavy

downpours are expected to increasingly disrupt

agricultural productivity in the US. Expected

increases in challenges to livestock health, declines

in crop yields and quality, and changes in extreme

events in the United States and abroad threaten

rural livelihoods, sustainable food security, and

price stability.”

Fortunately, many of the solutions for

addressing climate change have been known for

years. Project Drawdown is a global research

organization partnering with policy-makers,

universities, nonprofits, businesses, investors, and

philanthropists that recently quantified the impact

of 100 solutions for reducing GHG emissions.

At least 21 of the 100 solutions are connected

to food systems, accounting for 32.5% of GHG

drawdown.

Local Climate Action Plans

With the federal government abdicating

responsibility for addressing climate change,

action has come from youth-driven movements

(e.g., Fridays for Future, Extinction Rebellion),

3

4

9

PROJECT DRAWDOWN FOOD SYSTEM SOLUTIONS

SOLUTION

TOTAL ATMOSPHERIC CO 2

EQUIVALENT REDUCTION (GT)

PERCENT OF

TOTAL CO 2

REDUCED FOOD WASTE 70.53 6.8%

PLANT-RICH DIET 66.11 6.4%

SILVOPASTURE 31.19 3%

11 REGENERATIVE AGRICULTURE 23.15 2.2%

14 TROPICAL STAPLE TREES 20.19 2%

16 CONSERVATION AGRICULTURE 17.35 1.7%

17 TREE INTERCROPPING 17.20 1.7%

19 MANAGED GRAZING 16.34 1.6%

21 CLEAN COOKSTOVES 15.81 1.5%

23 FARMLAND RESTORATION 14.08 1.4%

24 IMPROVED RICELAND CULTIVATION 11.34 1.1%

28 MULTISTRATA AGRICULTURE 9.28 0.9%

30 METHANE DIGESTERS (large) 8.40 0.8%

53 RICE DISINFECTION SYSTEM 3.13 0.3%

58 LANDFILL METHANE 2.50 0.2%

60 COMPOSTING 2.28 0.2%

64 METHANE DIGESTERS (small) 1.90 0.2%

65 NUTRIENT MANAGEMENT 1.81 0.2%

67 FARMLAND IRRIGATION 1.33 0.1%

68 WASTE-TO-ENERGY 1.10 0.1%

72 BIOCHAR 0.81 0.1%

FOOD SYSTEM SUBTOTAL 335.83 32.5%

ALL SOLUTIONS TOTAL 1034.75%

100.0%

A gigaton (GT) is equal to 1 billion metric tons.

states, regions, counties, and cities. In many

ways, California has led the way forward:

Through the passage of Assembly Bill (AB) 32,

the California Global Warming Solutions Act

of 2006, California became the first state in the

US to mandate statewide reductions in GHG

emissions. AB 32 sets a statewide target to reduce

GHG emissions to 1990 levels by 2020, 40%

below 1990 levels by 2030, and 80% below 1990

levels by 2050.

Since local governments have an important

role in contributing toward AB 32 goals through

their planning and permitting processes, local

ordinances, outreach and education efforts, and

municipal operations—and since many solutions

revolve around food system activities—a key

goal for San Diegans lies in cultivating a healthy,

sustainable, and just food system in our region.

San Diego County is a unique region to

cultivate a model community food system; home


| SPECIAL REPORT

to more than 3.3 million people, it is California's

second most populous county and the fifth most

populous in the United States. There is also

a significant amount of food insecurity: Our

county has the second highest number of SNAPeligible

residents after Los Angeles County.

With more small and organic farms than any

other county in the nation, strategies to preserve

agriculture in this region facing drought and

development pressure can serve as a model for the

rest of California. Additionally, San Diego has a

unique foodshed relationship with Mexico and

also benefits from a diverse population.

As cities and counties draft and update

their local Climate Action Plans (CAPs), the

following food system strategies are important

opportunities that should be considered.

Vibrant local and sustainable community

food systems

In order to be less dependent on the global

sourcing and distribution of food, many local

governments are supporting the emergence of

local and sustainable community food systems.

Some CAP measure examples include:

• Develop policies to encourage communitybased

farms, including demonstration

projects (City of Davis)

• Support the 10 Percent Local Food

campaign to encourage eating fresh, local

foods in homes, institutions, and businesses

(City of Cincinnati)

Food waste reduction, recovery, and

recycling

Many local governments are developing “Zero

Waste Plans” linked to Climate Action Plans

that include reduction, recovery, and recycling

concepts. For example, the County of San

Diego’s “Strategic Plan to Reduce Waste”

includes source reduction, food donation, and

composting operations at various levels.

Promoting consumption of less carbonintense

foods

Many local governments are now encouraging

their residents to consume climate-friendly food

products. A few CAP measures:

• Encourage community to reduce meat

and dairy consumption countywide by

promoting Meatless Mondays and the

Cool Foods Pledge (City of Santa Monica)

• Conduct a community education

campaign on the carbon consequences

of food choices, with special emphasis on

protein sources such as meat, fish, grains,

and vegetables (City of Davis)

Carbon farming practices

Several counties in California have begun

adopting carbon farming measures into Climate

Action Plans including Marin, Santa Barbara,

and San Diego. A suite of farming and ranching

practices collectively called “carbon farming”

hold the potential for delivering multiple benefits,

including reducing GHG emissions, building soil

health, and strengthening climate resilience.

Carbon farming can also strengthen San Diego

County’s urban-rural connections by shifting the

role of farmers as ecosystem service providers,

turning urban waste into compost, treating

urban wastewater for irrigation, and addressing

regional sustainability goals.

From 2000 to 2015, an estimated 1 million

orchard trees were taken out of production,

equating to a storage and sequestration value

of 300,000 metric tons of CO 2

emissions.

Meanwhile, city CAPs are now prioritizing urban

tree-planting goals. Can we envision a future

where farmers are paid for the ecosystem services

they are providing to the urban population?

For more information on carbon farming

opportunities, additional reports developed by

Batra Ecological Strategies, San Diego Food

System Alliance, and San Diego County Farm

Bureau are available at sdfsa.org.

As California strives to develop supportive

frameworks to advance CAP measures, we can

imagine that the strategies above will become

much easier to incorporate and measure progress

around. There's excitement at the progress

local governments in San Diego have made to

proactively embrace food system strategies in

local CAP efforts.

San Diego Food System Alliance and its

network is leading efforts on all of the strategies

addressed. Examples include the Save The Food,

San Diego! countywide food waste awareness

campaign with over 150 partners (savethefoodsd.

org), promoting the Good Food Purchasing

Program with large public institutions, and

facilitating the San Diego Carbon Farming Task

Force. Partnerships and active involvement of

local governments in all of these strategies will be

critical in order to acheive and maintain goals.

San Diego Food System Alliance is also leading

the development of San Diego County Food

Vision 2030, inviting the public to envision

the future of our region. Food Vision 2030 is a

10-year strategic plan that will guide collective

action toward a healthy, sustainable, and just

food system in our region.

Please consider joining these important

conversations. s

Food Vision 2030 will be developed over the next 15 months with extensive community

and stakeholder input. A common agenda produced from these efforts will be presented in

December 2020 with goals for the next decade. Subscribe at sdfsa.org/food-vision-2030 and

follow @sdfoodvision.


FRIENDS WITH BENEFITS |

Three Men and a Hen

BY BETH DEMMON

PHOTOGRAPHS BY OLIVIA HAYO

O

n a recent Monday in Vista, Keith Lord, founder of culinary consulting firm Stratәjē Fourteen, invited

a couple friends to cook in his backyard for what he described as a “chef’s day off.” The intimate feast

was prepared by the likes of Willy Eick, executive chef at Mission Avenue Bar & Grill and Matsu, and Davin

Waite, executive chef and owner at Wrench and Rodent Seabasstropub, The Whet Noodle, and The Plot

(soon to be open).

The private event was not only an opportunity for longtime colleagues and friends to recharge over the shared

experience of cooking, connecting, and feasting, it was a reunion to

champion a product Lord describes as “magical and insanely good.”

That magical product is Autonomy Farms’ hand-fed chickens, raised in

a Bakersfield-based operation owned and operated by Lord's close friend

Meredith Bell. Bell worked in hospitality and high-end food service

positions for years in San Diego, and much of that time was spent assuming

various roles alongside Lord, Eick, and Waite across the city’s tight-knit

food scene.

In 2013, Bell decided to pursue her passion and launched Autonomy Farms

a year later. Today, she estimates her farm is home to as many as 10,000

chickens at any given time, making them her signature product along with

a few other varieties of humanely raised livestock such as grass-fed cattle and

turkeys.

Lord has long lauded the remarkable quality of Bell’s chickens while also

lamenting the fact that more people, especially in San Diego, aren’t aware

of their availability. “She does everything [for the chickens] from start to

finish, including the processing,” he explains. “We thought [this event]

would be a different way of showcasing them. Nobody hand-feeds chickens.

Nobody grows clover for them to finish on, and you can taste it in the

product.”

Autonomy’s chickens are available for purchase at the weekly Santa Monica


| FRIENDS WITH BENEFITS

Farmers’ Market, locally through wholesale

distributor Specialty Produce, or by mail order,

but Lord sees San Diego as an untapped market

for Bell. “I really just want to help Meredith

reintroduce her product to a community that she’s

so tied to. For me, it feels like I might be helping

her to bring it full circle. It’s time!” he says with a

laugh.

For Lord, 2017 International Caterers Association

Chef of the Year, the long-term professional

relationship that has been established with Bell is

extremely close and special. “We push each other,

we drive each other, [and] we both have a passion

for what we do. It’s been like that since day one.”

Bell agrees: “He’s been a huge, adamant supporter

of mine for a really long time and would probably

do anything to help me succeed with this farm.

Everybody needs positive reinforcement and

encouragement. I’ve been lucky to have that with

Keith.”

Autonomy Farms is a grassroots operation, and

Bell admits it’s pretty much just her running

the show. This makes expansion of her business

difficult to achieve if she wants to maintain

hands-on quality. “In all honesty, that’s

something that I struggle with figuring out: how

to scale business without losing what we stand

for, what the product is, and what makes it

unique to begin with. I’ve been taking it slow…

I’m not willing to compromise the quality at this

point just to focus on expansion.”

With supporters like Lord and the rest of the

party in her corner, finding that balance seems

a little bit easier. “I need to be around people

who inspire me and encourage me to be better

and really think outside the box. I think that

group of chefs definitely does it for me,” says

Bell. “A lunch like this is so unique and different,

with so many chefs that are truly inspiring and

encouraging me down the path I should be

taking. It shows that where I’m at is exactly where

I should be.” s

» autonomyfarms.com

TURNING 10 CHICKENS INTO 15

DISHES

•CHICKEN HEARTS YAKITORI,

PUMPKIN, OKINAWAN BROWN

SUGAR CRUMBLE, TOGARASHI

•COLLARD-WRAPPED LIVER

YAKITORI, WILD RICE STUFFING

•GRILLED OYSTERS & CHICKEN

OYSTERS, BARBECUE BUTTER

•CHIX‘N DIP, CHICKEN FEET,

CHICKEN FAT RANCH

•BUTTERMILK FRIED CHICKEN,

WHITE CHEDDAR, UNI BRIOCHE

FRENCH TOAST, HONEY FAT

EMULSION, CHICKEN DASHI

REDUCTION SYRUP

•SHRIMP BISQUE, STUFFED KATSU

CHICKEN WINGS, TOGARASHI

•FRESH YUZU & WHITE CLAW LIME

CAN CHICKEN, PEPPER SPICE

•CHICKEN & THE EGG, GOLDEN

CURRY, YUZU LEAF FROM THE YARD

•HULI HULI CHICKEN TSUKEMEN

•HARDWOOD-SMOKED CHICKEN,

SECRET PSYCHIC BLOOD BROTHER

RUB, OKLAHOMA BARBECUE SAUCE

•PLAN B SPINY LOBSTER,

TANGERINE CHICKEN SALAD,

LENTILS, KABOCHA SQUASH,

HAZELNUT OIL

•USUKUCHI SHOYU-BRINED WINGS,

SANSHO


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| STAYCATION

Eat

Drink

Bike

Repeat

BY FELICIA CAMPBELL

PHOTOGRAPHS BY MEHDI TAGHAVI

You won’t find me anywhere near the boardwalk

in the summertime. The wall-to-wall crowds and

frenetic vibe don’t fit with the low-key, beach

town-of-a-bygone-era fantasy that drew me to

San Diego in the first place. In the wintertime,

however, it’s one of my favorite places to be.

The sun still shines and the weather is mild when

most of the tourists and day-trippers have gone

home. It becomes possible to not only shuffle,

but to walk or even bike the three-mile stretch

of boardwalk that connects Pacific Beach and

Mission Beach. The ride requires patience as you

weave around walkers and joggers, which is all the

better for taking in the kaleidoscopic view of local

culture.

At the northern end of the stretch, families and

surfers from the surrounding neighborhoods

make their way down to Law Street Beach. Dads

pushing baby buggies whiz past on rollerblades.

Old-timers walk hand in hand. North of the pier

sits the posh Tower23 hotel and iconic Kono’s

Cafe, and to the south, you’ll find the beach bars

beloved by frat boys, marines, and party girls. Past

the clubs and souvenir shops, Woody’s signals the

end of PB and the beginning of Mission Beach.

Here, the boardwalk widens, and you’ll see more

yoga mats than margaritas. Near Belmont Park,

crews on lowrider bikes congregate, families have

picnics on the grass, and the smell of bonfires

and charcoal fills the air. At the southernmost tip

of Mission Beach, the lanes narrow and the sand

is overrun by tan, svelte beach volleyball teams

battling it out.

The boardwalk belongs to the locals in the

wintertime, and they know how to enjoy the

relaxed cadence of beach life. Mornings are for

post-surfing breakfast burritos, coffee, or coldpressed

juice. Afternoons are for biking, sunning,

and naps. Sunset is best enjoyed standing on the

pier, watching the last rays disappear over the sea.

And at night, when the views are no more, it’s

time to leave the boardwalk behind and explore

the haunts tucked throughout the neighboring

blocks.

Where to Stay

Even if you live only a few miles from the

boardwalk, like I do, a stay on the beach is an

absolute vacation. There’s simply nothing like

waking up to the sound of waves and fresh sea air.

There are tons of vacation homes for rent in PB

and Mission Beach, but to maximize your R&R,

Tower23 is the best boutique hotel option with its

flawless design, prime location, and stellar on-site

restaurant.

Beachfront rooms put you right over the

boardwalk, while the three beach-view rooms are

set a few hundred feet back and overlook the fire

pits, deck loungers, and Pacific Ocean beyond.

Valet parking for one car, welcome drinks for two,

and free use of beach chairs, beach toys, and beach

cruisers are all included in the standard resort fee.

» t23hotel.com

Locals know winter is the best time to enjoy the

Mission Beach to Pacific Beach boardwalk.


STAYCATION |

Where to Eat

The seasonal menu at Tower23's JRDN on the

boardwalk and Felspar features fish and produce

from local farms. Carrots from Black Sheep and

JR Organics star in both the buttery carrot risotto

and as a kimchi-roasted side served with smoked

mashed potatoes under meltingly tender short

ribs. The dessert menu is playful and surprising.

Go for the “chef’s whim” seasonal special and you

won’t be disappointed.

The architect was a genius when it came to making

the view the star of the show from every angle of

this restaurant. The seats at the interior bar offer

a front-row perch overlooking the boardwalk,

pier, and the sun setting over the ocean. The wine

list is solid, the beer list totally respectable, and

the creative cocktails—like the Entrepreneur,

made with whiskey and pomegranate juice—are

balanced and strong.

» t23hotel.com/dine

You deserve some kind of award if you can finish

one of the monster-sized breakfast burritos at

Kono’s Cafe on your own. They are amazing

fuel for a day of biking, surfing, or kayaking. We

recommend the #5, which comes stuffed with

chorizo, jalapeños, avocado, eggs, cheese, and pico

de gallo. Unless you show up right when they

open at 7am, be prepared to wait in line for a good

15 minutes or more. Once you place your order,

find a seat on their pier deck, boardwalk-facing

patio, or inside the cozy shop and your food will

be out in less time than it took to order it.

» konoscafe.com

Basic burgers and breakfast burritos at Woody’s

Breakfast and Burgers come with a view at this

PB counter service classic.

» thewoodgroupsd.com

Two blocks east of Tower 23, Square Pizza turns

out the best thick and crispy Detroit-style pies in

town topped with perfectly gooey fresh mozzarella

and a ladleful of garlicky, slightly sweet sauce. Sold

by the quarter pie, it can easily be a snack for two

or a solid meal for one. They’re open until 2am on

weekends, making it a great place for a late-night

snack to end your evening.

» squarepizzaco.com

In the Belmont Park complex, Draft is the place

for a solid burger and beer overlooking the beach.

The attached coffee shop is also a great place to

grab a pastry and a morning latte.

» draftsandiego.com

Live your best life and get a giant churro for $2 at

El Jefes Taco Shop.

» belmontpark.com/food/el-jefe

Simply the greatest, Juice Wave sources local

fruits, veggies, honey, and even spirulina for their

cold-pressed juices, smoothies, and acai bowls.

The bowls are topped with granola that’s made inhouse

along with freshly ground nut butter.

» juicewavesd.com

The newest location of Better Buzz Coffee is

right on Mission Boulevard. Get (arguably) the

best cappuccino in town or a nitro cold brew

and an avocado toast or grilled sandwich like the

bacon, almond butter, and banana on sourdough,

or a more classic ham, egg, and cheese on brioche.

» betterbuzzcoffee.com

Where to Get a Drink

When the sun goes down, you can’t see the view

anyway, so unless you want to party like you’re

21, skip the beach bars and head to Saska’s. This

old-timey steakhouse has been open since 1951

(though there was a recent change in ownership),

and the interior is everything you want it to be

from the red leather banquettes to the plush,

weathered bar stools to the crooning oldies playing

in the background. Sit at the bar and order a

whiskey sour and a boat of creamy artichoke dip

or a few oysters. After 10pm they have a selection

of small bites on the bar menu if you aren’t up for

a big steak dinner.

» saskas.com

The patio at Lahaina Beach House has a

mellow, local vibe despite being packed to the gills.

If you want a lively, crowded, cash-only dive bar

sans thumping club music or wall of flatscreens

showing the game, this is your spot.

Baja Beach Cafe is home to those fishbowl-sized

margaritas you won’t admit you actually want.

The food is not going to blow your mind, but the

location right on the boardwalk and the fun of

drinking out of a glass you can barely lift make it a

quintessential boardwalk drinking experience.

» bajabeachcafe.com


foraging in the Valley Barboursville’s wondrous garden easy, seasonal recipes

CELEBRATING THE ABUNDANCE OF LOCAL FOOD IN AMERICA’S FARM-TO-FORK CAPITAL

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PARTNER CONTENT |

NEIGHBORHOOD

DINING GUIDE

The Neighborhood Dining Guide celebrates

locally owned restaurants passionate about

local sourcing and the Ocean Friendly

Restaurant (OFR) program created by

Surfrider Foundation San Diego County,

which incentivizes and recognizes eateries

across the country that uphold specific

environmentally friendly practices. Enjoy a

delicious meal and make sure to tell them that

Edible San Diego sent you!

MISSION BEACH

vibe of the Pacific Beach boardwalk it sits on. Get your fish

fix with a creative roll from the sushi bar or enjoy a slice of

the good life with your favorite cut of steak. Wake up to

beachside brunch every weekend from 9am–2pm or sneak

in a drink during weekday happy hour from 4–6pm.

30 wines by the glass. Solare is committed to serving the

cuisine of today, created with all the love and attention to

detail from generations past.

NORTH PARK / KENSINGTON

SOULSHINE VEGAN CAFE

3864 Mission Blvd.

San Diego • 858-886-7252

soulshinemb.com

At Soulshine Vegan Cafè, we value the innate connection

between our community and our earth. By choosing

a plant-based and organic menu, we support the

regeneration of marine life and restoration of our

ecosystem. Stop by our location in the heart of Mission

Beach and enjoy menu options highlighting locally

sourced ingredients and healthy, feel-good fare. OFR

PACIFIC BEACH

POINT LOMA

MITCH’S SEAFOOD

1403 Scott St.

San Diego • 619-222-8787

mitchsseafood.com

Established in 2008 by

three families with a long

history of fishing in the

Point Loma area of San

Diego, Mitch’s Seafood

specializes in fresh seafood from the waters off San Diego.

Located on San Diego’s working waterfront with a view of

the fishing fleet, the restaurant focuses on simply prepared,

California-style seafood and offers a selection of craft beer

and wine sourced from local San Diego and California

purveyors.

BLIND LADY ALE HOUSE

3416 Adams Ave.

San Diego • 619-255-2491

blindlady.blogspot.com

Nothing goes together better

than a pint and a slice.

Blind Lady excels at both.

The pizza offerings range

from the classic margherita

to creative options like the

house chorizo with poblano

chiles, fontina, epazote, and

cotija. While the pizza is the

headliner, expect a variety

of brewpub snacks like Belgian frites and spicy beer nuts.

OFR

TIGER!TIGER! TAVERN

3025 El Cajon Blvd.

San Diego • 619-487-0401

tigertigertavern.blogspot.com

JRDN

723 Felspar St.

San Diego • 858-270-2323

t23hotel.com/jrdn

Inspired by its locale, JRDN’s flavors reflect the colorful

SOLARE

2820 Roosevelt Rd.

San Diego • 619-270-9670

solarelounge.com

Solare is an authentic Italian restaurant with a special

focus on southern Italy and Sicily featuring a menu made

with fresh ingredients selected daily. Blending modern

and traditional tastes, the results are light and healthy

dishes brimming with natural flavors. Complement your

meal with one of 2,000 bottles of wine from the cellar or

The atmosphere at Tiger!Tiger!

is casual and cool. Its signature

wood-fired oven in the dining

room turns out roasted oysters

and well-made sandwiches.

The seating is communal

and the beer list is lengthy. A

chalkboard features the wide

variety of brews, complete with

craft descriptions and alcohol

content. The 60-ounce pitcher for $16 is a major deal.

OFR

MARIA HESSE


| LOCAL ATTRACTIONS

Around the Block South Park

BY LUCILA DEALEJANDRO

PHOTOGRAPHS BY BHADRI KUBENDRAN

When I moved to South Park over

25 years ago, it was still part of

Golden Hill. It was a little gritty,

and our friendly and hard-working

neighbors were mostly families

attracted to the inexpensive and

central location. South Park has

since transformed from a primarily

residential neighborhood to a hip,

place-to-be village.

The community’s historic hub is

the block spanning Ivy and Juniper

between 30th and Fern. Tipuana

tipu trees shade the corridor along

Fern Street, and limited street

parking allows pedestrians and

cyclists to reign.

In a landscape dotted with locally

procured and artfully framed

cuisine exists 2009 Grand Orchid

Award-winner The Station, where

craft beer marries boss burgers.

The Station's vegan options

include a savory black bean

burger, farmers’ market salad, and

the signature tater tots tossed in

their house spice blend.

Weekly specials include The

Station steak sandwich, with

slivers of flavorful flank steak

stuffed in a roll and smothered

with caramelized onions, bell

peppers, and pepper jack cheese,

and a grilled beer bratwurst

snuggled in a soft pretzel bun

slathered with spicy mustard and

tangy housemade sauerkraut.

All walks of life—from in-laws,

out-laws, spouses, children, and

congenial canines—are welcome

at The Station on their convivial

outdoor patio. If you don’t run into

an old friend while you’re there,

you are certain to leave with a new

one.

Farther north on Fern, find the

second-oldest business on the

block: the Whistle Stop Bar.

Reopened at its current location

in 2001, the neighborhood bar

has done a little bit of everything

to attract crowds. Beyond serving

terrific drinks, they host craft

shows, knitting circles, game

nights, movies, sketch and standup

comedy, and dance parties.

Fire Station 9, the last surviving

and oldest Craftsman-style fire

station in San Diego, was built

in 1912 and is now home to

South Park Fitness. Photos of the

original firehouse hang alongside

paintings of Slash and Bob

Marley. The wide-open front doors

reveal high ceilings and all the

equipment you need for strength

training and cardio. You can pay

a drop-in rate for a day or sign up

for a monthly membership.

Built in 1924, the Rose Grocery

Building is home to the Rose Wine

Bar + Bottle Shop. The 21-and-over

spot is where I go when I want to

feel like a fancy adult. Their menu

is divided into helpful sections

like Salad + Things, Flatbreads,

Share Stuff, and Hangover Stuff.

The homemade empanadas with

seasonal fillings are substantial

and are served with a robust

chimichurri. Their mix-and-match

cheese and salumi plates are

definite crowd-pleasers, and

the sommeliers can give all the

information you could ever need

about their global selection of

quality wine. Rose Wine Bar also

does a fantastic brunch on the

weekend.

The Mission-style Burlingame

Garage, built in 1914, houses

a couple favorite makeover

shops in one of San Diego’s

earliest automobile garages. For

a new look, try Salon on 30th

for premium products and chic

haircare services. Gingerly Wax

handles all the other hair with

a complete menu of full body

waxing in a comfortable space.

Afterward, stop by Graffiti Beach

to shop the latest fashion trends.

Looking for something more

permanent? The Vishudda

Creatives believe that the tattoo

experience can heal, and all art is

original and hand-drawn for you.

The zakka boutique Gold Leaf is

also not to be missed. Zakka is

a Japanese and Scandinavian

movement that reveres simple

things and natural objects. I spend

hours browsing Gold Leaf’s home

decor offerings, jewelry, and

curios.

If, after all this, you’ve decided

to never leave South Park, visit

Community Realty Co. to settle

down in this haven.

What first attracted my family to

South Park prevails: neighbors

building a community with a

small-town feel.

Check This Out

BY CHRISTINA

KANTZAVELOS

Designed by disc golf Hall

of Famer Snapper Pierson

in 1978, Morley Field Disc Golf

is one of the first, and busiest,

disc golf courses in the world. It

offers a 19-hole course where

the objective is to throw a disc

(frisbee) into a chain-linked

basket in as few attempts as

possible.

The course is open seven

days a week, year-round, from

sunrise to sunset and takes

one to three hours to complete,

depending on the crowd.

All-day play bands cost $4 to

$5 (weekends/holidays), and

discs/frisbees are $1.50 each

to rent. Check out the schedule

online for tournaments and

events. Pro tip: Make sure to

yell “FORE” when throwing,

and take heed of discs flying

without forewarning.

» morleyfield.com


edible san diego

Local

Enjoy the

Open Air

Monday

Escondido—Welk Resort √†

8860 Lawrence Welk Dr.

3–7pm

760-651-3630

Tuesday

Coronado √

1st St. & B Ave., Ferry Landing

2:30–6pm

760-741-3763

Escondido √*

262 East Grand Ave.

2:30–7pm (2:30–6pm Oct to May)

760-480-4101

Mira Mesa √*

10510 Reagan Rd.

2:30–7pm (3–6pm fall-winter)

858-272-7054

Otay Ranch—Chula Vista √

2015 Birch Rd. and Eastlake Blvd.

4–8pm

619-279-0032

Pacific Beach Tuesday √†

Bayard & Garnet

2–7pm

619-233-3901

People’s Produce Night Market √

5010 Market St.

5–8pm

619-813-9148

San Marcos √

1035 La Bonita Dr.

3–7pm

858-272-7054

UCSD Town Square √

UCSD Campus, Town Square

10am–2pm, Sept to June

858-534-4248

Vail Headquarters √*

32115 Temecula Pkwy.

9am–1pm

760-728-7343

Wednesday

Grossmont Center Certified √ NEW

5500 Grossmont Center Dr., West Court

2–7pm

619-465-2900

Little Italy Wednesday √*†

501 W. Date St.

9am–1pm

619-233-3901

Ocean Beach √

4900 block of Newport Ave.

4–8pm

619-279-0032

Santee *†

Carlton Hills Blvd. & Mast Blvd.

3–7pm (2:30–6:30pm winter)

619-449-8427

State Street in Carlsbad Village √

State St. & Carlsbad Village Dr.

3–7pm (3–6pm fall-winter)

858-272-7054

Temecula—Promenade √*

40820 Winchester Rd. by Macy’s

9am–1pm

760-728-7343

Thursday

Lemon Grove √*

2885 Lemon Grove Ave.

3–7pm

619-813-9148

Linda Vista √*†

6939 Linda Vista Rd.

3–7pm (2–6pm winter)

760-504-4363

North Park Thursday √*†

2900 North Park Way

3–7:30pm

619-550-7180

Oceanside Morning √*

Pier View Way & Coast Hwy. 101

9am–1pm

760-791-3241

Rancho Bernardo

16535 Via Esprillo

11am–1:30pm

619-279-0032

Friday

Bernardo Winery √

13330 Paseo del Verano Norte

9am–1pm

760-500-1709

Borrego Springs √

700 Palm Canyon Dr.

7am–noon, Oct to Apr

760-767-5555

Horton Plaza Lunch Market

225 Broadway Circle

11am–2pm

619-795-3363

Imperial Beach √*†

10 Evergreen Ave.

2–7pm (2–6pm winter)

info@imperialbeachfarmersmarket.org

La Mesa Village √*

La Mesa Blvd. btwn Palm & 4th St.

3–7pm, year-round

619-795-3363

EAT the most

delicious

californiagrown

fruits

and vegGIES

7 days a week


Markets Guide

Cook All Weekend

Saturday

find the freshest local catch

City Heights √*†!

Wightman St. btwn Fairmount & 43rd St.

9am–1pm

760-504-4363

Del Mar √

1050 Camino Del Mar

1–4pm

858-465-0013

Little Italy Mercato √†

600 W. Date St.

8am–2pm

619-233-3901

Pacific Beach √

4150 Mission Blvd.

8am–noon

760-741-3763

Poway √*

14134 Midland Rd.

8am–1pm

619-249-9395

Rancho Penasquitos

9400 Fairgrove Ln.

9am–1pm

858-484-8788

Temecula—Old Town √*

Sixth & Front St.

8am–12:30pm

760-728-7343

Tuna Harbor Dockside Market

879 West Harbor Dr.

Port of San Diego

8am–1pm

Vista √*†

325 Melrose Dr.

8am–noon

760-945-7425

Sunday

Support local growers

and businesses

Hillcrest √*

3960 Normal & Lincoln Sts.

9am–2pm

619-237-1632

La Jolla Open Aire √

Girard Ave. & Genter

9am–1pm

858-454-1699

Leucadia √*

185 Union St. & Vulcan St.

10am–2pm

858-272-7054

Murrieta √*

Village Walk Plaza

I-15, exit west on Calif. Oaks & Kalmia

9am–1pm

760-728-7343

North San Diego / Sikes Adobe √†

12655 Sunset Dr.

10:30am–3:30pm

858-735-5311

Rancho Santa Fe Del Rayo Village √

16077 San Dieguito Rd.

9:30am–2pm

619-743-4263

Santa Ysabel √

21887 Washington St.

Noon–4pm

760-782-9202

Solana Beach √

410 South Cedros Ave.

Noon–4pm

858-755-0444

cultivate community

* Market vendors accept WIC (Women, Infants, Children) Farmers’ Market checks.

† Market vendors accept EBT (Electronic Benefit Transfer).

! Market vendors accept WIC Fruit and Vegetable checks.

√ Indicates markets certified by the San Diego County Agriculture Commissioner, ensuring that the produce is grown by the seller or another certified

farmer in California, and meets all state quality standards. Temecula markets and the Murrieta market are certified by the Riverside County Agricultural

Commissioner.

Visit ediblesandiego.com and click on “Resources” for more complete information and links to market websites.


PREP |

Golden Chai

BY HALEY WEISBERGER

weet, spicy, and chock-full of health benefits, golden chai lattes are just what the

S doctor ordered this winter. A warm cup is the perfect way to start your day or to kick

off your bedtime ritual. The fragrant whole dried spices soothe your senses and relax your

mind, while fresh ginger and turmeric nourish your body.

Turmeric gives the drink its beautiful golden hue and also

happens to be rich in antioxidants with anti-inflammatory

properties. Black pepper adds a slight heat and activates

the healing properties of turmeric. Warming spices like

cardamom and clove boost the traditional chai flavor. We

recommend adding peak-season orange peels and freshly

squeezed juice to brighten up your latte and double down on

the healing properties with the added vitamin C.

The best thing about this warm cup of sunshine is that it’s

endlessly customizable. Only have ground spices? Not a

problem. Not a fan of cardamom but love nutmeg? Swap

them. Avoiding dairy? Substitute your favorite nut milk.

Keeping things caffeine-free? Skip the black tea or try it with

an herbal variety. Craving something cold? Chill out and pour

your latte over ice. Prefer agave to honey? You get it. Do you.

To make golden chai, thinly slice a 1-inch piece of fresh ginger

and a 2-inch piece of fresh turmeric. Using a vegetable peeler,

peel two strips of orange rind, avoiding the white pith as much

as possible. Cut the orange in half and squeeze the juice of

half the orange into a small pot. Add orange peel strips, 2 cups

of water, the sliced ginger and turmeric, 1 tablespoon whole

cardamom pods, 1 teaspoon whole cloves, ½ teaspoon whole

black peppercorns, and 1 cinnamon stick and bring to a boil.

Reduce heat and let simmer for 5 minutes. Remove pot from

heat and add in 2 black tea bags. Let steep for 1 to 2 minutes.

(Avoid oversteeping, as this can lead to a bitter taste.) Strain

and pour hot chai into 4 mugs, stir 1 tablespoon of honey into

each mug, and top with frothy steamed milk. Garnish with

turmeric powder and additional orange peel.

HALEY WEISBERGER

SAN DIEGO

COUNTY

FOOD

VISION

Imagine a food system that

belongs to all of us.

What if zip code didn’t determine life expectancy?

What if urban gardens dotted our cityscape, doctors

wrote prescriptions for fresh fruits and vegetables as a

matter of course, and every community had the power

and agency to design its own food environment?

What if all food workers were guaranteed a fair living

wage, good working conditions, and affordable

healthcare?

What if the population of farmers and fishermen

surged? What if growing food and catching fish

were widely respected professions, supported and

compensated appropriately for feeding the world and

stewarding the land and sea?

What if all of us—all 3.3 million eaters in San Diego

County—were fully engaged in shaping our food

system?

WHAT’S YOUR “WHAT IF”?

We’re looking for anyone who grows, distributes, prepares, serves, or eats food to tell us how they envision San

Diego County’s food system in ten years. Share your vision at an upcoming Community Forum happening

in your neighborhood.

sdfoodvision2030.org

Follow along on Facebook, Instagram, Twitter and LinkedIn at @sdfoodsys

San Diego County Food Vision 2030 is an initiative of the San Diego Food System Alliance.

Presented by The California Restaurant Association

January 19-26

Restaurant Week Your Way

Your Time to...

TASTE MORE

Now featuring

fast-casual restaurants

and cafes.

SAVE MORE

New deals including

drinks & appetizers in

addition to the classic

3-course offerings.

ENJOY MORE

From brunches

to lunches,

fancy dinners

to quick winners.

Enjoy Restaurant Week your way.

180+ RESTAURANTS | 8 DAYS | PRIX FIXE MENUS

VIEW ALL PARTICIPATING RESTAURANTS, SPECIAL DEALS, MENUS AND MORE

SanDiegoRestaurantWeek.com

SPONSORED BY


Edible San Diego Issue 57: Winter 2020

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