Eatdrink #81 January/February 2020

eatdrinkmagazine

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario since 2007

Issue #81 | January/February 2020

eatdrink

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine

Ex

Celebrating Time-Honoured Bonds

Happiness Café

Budapest Restaurant

Unique Food Attitudes

Aranka Csárda

Marienbad Restaurant

Central & Eastern European

Cuisine in London

Profiles

of Excellence

Cowbell Brewing Co.

Dairy Distillery

Eatdrink’s London Wine & Food Show

Page 29

FEATURING

Expand Your Beer Palate

Recommendations Outside the

Average Comfort Zone

Can You Drive to Italy?

Eataly Toronto Is Now Open

Local Reds to Warm You Up

Baby, It’s Cold Outside

Serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario since 2007

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eatdrink

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine


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@eatdrinkmag

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eatdrink.ca

Think Global. Read Local.

Publisher

Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca

Managing Editor Cecilia Buy – cbuy@eatdrink.ca

Food Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca

Copy Editor Kym Wolfe

Social Media Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca

Advertising Sales Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca

Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca

Stacey McDonald – stacey@eatdrink.ca

Terry-Lynn “TL” Sim – TL@eatdrink.ca

Finances

Ann Cormier – finance@eatdrink.ca

Graphics

Chris McDonell, Cecilia Buy

Writers

Jane Antoniak, Darin Cook,

Gary Killops, Bryan Lavery,

George Macke, Tracy Turlin,

Kym Wolfe

Photographers Steve Grimes, Nick Lavery

Telephone & Fax 519-434-8349

Mailing Address 525 Huron Street, London ON N5Y 4J6

Website

City Media, Cecilia Buy

Social Media Mind Your Own Business

Printing

Sportswood Printing

OUR COVER

These exquisite heartshaped

Entremets from

Happiness Café are a

delicious reminder that

Valentine’s Day is fast

approaching. Read about

Happiness and other

Central and East European

restaurants in London on

page 12.

© 2020 Eatdrink Inc. and the writers.

All rights reserved.

Reproduction or duplication of any material published in Eatdrink

or on Eatdrink.ca is strictly prohibited without the written

permis sion of the Publisher. Eatdrink has a printed circulation

of 20,000 issues published six times annually, for a total of 120,000

copies in print. The views or opinions expressed in the information,

content and/or advertisements published in Eatdrink or online

are solely those of the author(s) and do not necessarily represent

those of the Publisher. The Publisher welcomes submissions but

accepts no responsibility for unsolicited material.

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Contents

Issue #81 | January/February 2020

Publisher’s Notes

Twenty-Twenty Vision

Hindsight and Foresight in 2020

By CHRIS McDONELL

6

Restaurants

Central & East European Cuisines

Celebrating Time-Honoured Bonds

Happiness Café

Budapest Restaurant

Unique Food Attitudes

Aranka Csárda

Marienbad Restaurant

By BRYAN LAVERY

12

Road Trips

Can You Drive to Italy?

Eataly Toronto Is Now Open

By BRYAN LAVERY

24

Profiles of Excellence

2020 London

Wine & Food Show

Supplement

Cowbell Brewing Co.

30

Dairy Distillery

32

Beer

Expand Your Beer Palate

Recommendations Outside the Average

Comfort Zone

By GEORGE MACKE

34

38

24

56

58

Wine

Baby, It’s Cold Outside

Local Reds to Warm You Up

By GARY KILLOPS

38

The BUZZ

Culinary Community Notes

New and Notable

By THE EDITORS

41

Theatre

Make Room on Your Calendar

A North American Premiere

By JANE ANTONIAK

53

Books

Hungry

Eating, Road-tripping, and Risking it All

with the Greatest Chef in the World

By Jeff Gordinier

Review by DARIN COOK

56

Recipes

Fermentation Revolution

by Sébastien Bureau and David Côté

Review & Recipe Selections

By TRACY TURLIN

58

The Lighter Side

Super Bowl & Stout

By KYM WOLFE

62

34


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

January/February 2020 | 5

RESERVE NOW

For Our Succulent

Valentine’s Day Dinner

Friday, February 14

Call for reservations

519-430-6414

/Blakes2ndFloor

¦


6 | January/February 2020

Publisher’s Notes

Twenty-Twenty Vision

Hindsight and Foresight in 2020

By CHRIS McDONELL

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

I

am cautiously optimistic that the new

decade that has just been launched will

be one that will be looked back upon

with fondness at some future date. A

century ago, the world was in a sorry state,

coming out of a grievous period marked by

horrifying world war followed by a devastating

influenza epidemic. Today’s climate change

crisis, with floods and fires

taking a toll in equal measure,

and the preponderance of harsh

autocrats and self-interested

oligarchs coming to power in so

many corners of the globe has

similarly put many of us into a

dark mood, with worries about

where we are headed as a society.

Is it possible that we are in the

process of turning a corner? Is it

possible that this too shall pass?

Today we recall The Roaring

Twenties of the twentieth

century as a halcyon celebratory

time, with joyful music and

dance, boozy nightlife, and

general prosperity. I don’t imagine too many

people saw that coming in January 1920.

Let’s hope we will look back one day upon the

2020s with equal affection, as a time when

CHATHAM-KENT • ELGIN • HURON • LONDON • MIDDLESEX

OXFORD • PERTH • SARNIA-LAMBTON • WINDSOR-ESSEX-PELEE ISLAND

Local Flavour

SOUTHWEST ONTARIO

CULINARY GUIDE

Restaurants • Specialty Shops & Services • Farmers’ Markets

Craft Beer & Local Wine • Agri-Tourism Attractions

eatdrink

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine

localflavour.ca

Your sustainable studio who cares

we embraced the environmental changes we

needed to make, as a time when we pushed

back retrograde political impulses and

recommitted ourselves to democracy, equality,

and justice for all. This is certainly possible.

We have got a number of things right over the

past decade. Looking back to our first issue of

EXPANDED

EDITION

VOLUME 8

2010, our Writer at Large Bryan

Lavery wrote about “Culinary

Tourism” as an emerging trend.

Understanding the critical role

that genuine encounters with

local food and drink had in

driving tourism made sense

to us then, and it makes even

more sense to us now, especially

with the recent understanding

of how authentic “Experiential

Tourism” takes this to another

level. All of this is reflected in

our new volume of our annual

Local Flavour guide. Copies will

soon be widely available, and

you can check the localflavour.ca

website for pickup locations, or you can access

the entire guide online.

This year’s guide includes outstanding

culinary attractions throughout our

hair • colour • barber • skin • spa • makeup • 4 everyone

140 Ann Street, Suite 106, London

519 709 4247

www.studioHartistgroup.com

@studioHartistgroup


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

corner of Southwest Ontario. London

serves as somewhat of a hub, with strong

representation in the restaurant, specialty

shop and craft brewery areas. Support from

SWOTC (Southwest Ontario Tourism Corp.)

and the Ministry of Tourism helped broaden

participation from the Lake Erie North

Shore and Huron Shores wine regions, as

well as breweries, distillers and agricultural

attractions throughout that region.

Huron and Perth Counties are also well

respresented, particularly by craft brewers,

inns and a strong representation of Stratford

restaurants. There’s plenty for everyone in

this handy guide we’re sure you’ll find useful

throughout 2020.

Looking back upon the last decade in the life

of Eatdrink, it’s also easy to see that we made

some regrettable mistakes along the way. I’m

not referring to the petty but infuriating typos

that somehow manage to make their way into

the carefully edited text, or even a couple of

more serious errors in reportage that involved

apology and clarification or correction. These

were problems that were resolved fairly easily,

or were trivial enough that they were of no real

consequence. My deep regrets come from the

occasional mismanagement of expectations

around stories, and the resulting hurt feelings

and disappointments from people that I care

about. I wish I could promise that this will not

happen again. In good conscience, I cannot

guarantee that.

Our endeavour to celebrate such a large

culinary community with some depth means

that our gaze cannot fall in equal measure

across the full spectrum of activity at all

times. What we can do is strive to keep

our eye roving for exciting new creative

endeavours without ignoring the longstanding

businesses that are equally worth

celebrating. I don’t mean to make excuses, but

this is a heady responsibility and a challenging

task that entails difficult decisions with every

issue of the magazine. If our readers did not

regard our story choices with faith in our

judgment, this would not matter so much,

but we know that our editorial spotlight

generally results in new business. We do

our best to spread that attention around as

generously as possible. It is truly great news

that our community is so rich with stories

worth telling. The bad news is that our little

magazine cannot fit them all into an annual

output of six issues.

Indoor Winter Farmers’ Market

Saturdays, February 1–April 4, 9am–1pm

The winter months are a time for cozy

stews, baked goods with hot tea, and

roasted winter vegetables. We have a

specially curated selection of amazing

local vendors keeping us warm

while the market maintains its

“no re-selling” guarantee throughout

the winter months. Enjoy the season with live music,

free yoga, free cooking classes and kids programming.

Skating on the Rotary Rink

Mon-Fri 11am-7pm, Sat 11am-6pm & Sun 11am-4pm.

Lace up your skates and enjoy winter on

the outdoor Rotary Rink at

the Market. Skating is

free and open daily,

weather permitting.

The Ultimate Market Gastro Tour

laveryculinarygroup.ca/experiences

Experience the Covent Garden Market in a new way and

indulge all of your senses with an insider tour by a local

expert. Contact the Lavery

Culinary Group to book a

Forest City Culinary Experience

or have your own

Covent Garden Market

experience custom-tailored.

Individuals, groups and corporate teams are all welcome.

For custom experiences: create@laveryculinarygroup.ca

MARKET HOURS

Mon–Fri 8am–7pm

Saturday 8am–6pm

Sunday 11am–4pm

Mezzanine & Restaurant Hours Differ


8 | January/February 2020

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

We rely upon our social media channels

to help alleviate some of the pressure

involved with spreading the word about

great businesses and activity that we know

our readers are interested in.

If you are not following us

yet, please do. If you are not

sharing your news with us

online, either directly or by

tagging us with your posts,

please change that. If you

are not sending us your news

for our BUZZ column, start.

We want to share your information and for

many readers, this is the first part of the

magazine that they read. But we don’t have

the journalistic resources to gather all of this

information. Have I mentioned that there

is no charge for any of these services? We’re

waiting to hear from you!

If you have a business that has never

advertised with us, we encourage you to

have a discussion with us about that. While

we labour over our editorial content, we can

assure you that our readers also look at our

ads with genuine interest, and make a great

@eatdrinkmag

deal of purchasing decisions based upon

them. This is the real value in being a niche

publication. The ads in Eatdrink magazine are

part and parcel of our ability to tell the story

of what is going on in the

community. We assure you

that there is great value in

investing in ads here. If you

have doubts, we encourage

you to flip through these

pages and call some of our

advertisers and ask them

how this magazine is working

for them. Call at a convenient time and I’m

sure you’ll get an honest answer.

I am pleased that an exceptionally good

friend to Eatdrink has embarked upon a welldeserved

retirement, but I am personally and

professionally going to miss my interactions

with Cathy Rehberg at Stratford Tourism

Alliance. Cathy has been a tireless advocate for

Stratford — there has never been any doubt

about where her loyalties lay — yet she has

also given generously of her expertise to help

make Eatdrink a better magazine. For a number

.


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

at the London Hunt Club

April 30 th

5

Different Chefs &

Course Dinner

ONE INCREDIBLE EVENING

supporting BethanysCure

Cocktail Hour 5:00PM

5 different restaurants hosting tasting stations!

Featured signature cocktails with

an amazing Silent Auction.

Dinner Program 6:30PM

5 local Chefs will take you on a culinary

journey throughout the evening. Live Auction

hosted by the one and only The Auctionista!

Musical Guest:

Paul Zubot & The Hollywood Band

Tickets $200.00 each

call 519-858-HOPE or visit

BethanysHope.org


10 | January/February 2020

of years, Cathy volunteered her time with

us as an editorial advisor, not only keeping

us informed about the latest changes and

developments in Stratford, but helping shape

the overall approach and focus of the magazine

with suggestions and feedback. This was a vital

service, and helped immeasurably in getting

us on a successful track. Just as important was

Cathy’s constant encouragement and buoyant

good nature, her genuine concern for our

success, and kindness, even when her budget

was tighter than we wished it was, or she asked

for data to decide whether to recommend

her organization spend money with Eatdrink.

Stratford has always been important to this

publication, but if that had not led us to meet

Cathy Rehberg, I’m not sure we would be where

we are today. Thanks, Cathy. I look forward to

hearing about your next adventures.

The Eatdrink New Year effectively kicks off at

the London Wine & Food Show every year,

running January 16–18 in 2020 at the Western

Fair Agriplex, and we’re proud to include our

“Profiles of Excellence” show supplement

in this issue. Innovators Cowbell Brewing

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

Co. and Dairy Distillery are featured, and

I think that it is no coincidence that both

have made architectural and environmental

considerations central to their business

model. Consumers demand a great product —

that’s number one — but read on to find out

how that is enhanced, not compromised, by

their manufacturing approach.

Bryan Lavery had rounded up a number of

outstanding examples of Central and Eastern

European cuisines that contribute to London’s

vital restaurant scene. There’s more than

sauerkraut on the menus, but with that kind

of fermentation becoming such a hot trend,

from kombucha to kimchi to craft cocktails,

Tracy Turlin reviews Fermentation Revolution

as a guide for us, with some inspiring recipes.

George Macke has some great suggestions for

broadening one’s craft beer palate, and Gary

Killops has some Ontario red wines that will

help warm you up for winter. There’s plenty

more to make this a great start to the year, and

I wish you all the best for 2020.

Peace,

LOVE,

LOVE IT!

SO MANY

SHOPS.

THEMARKETWFD.COM

HALINA A.

GOOGLE REVIEW


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Local Beef • Pork • Lamb • Poultry

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12 | January/February 2020

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

Restaurants

Celebrating

Time-Honoured Bonds

Central and Eastern European Cuisine in London

By BRYAN LAVERY

Eastern European bonds of culture and

cuisine are closely tied to the changing

borders and economic renaissance

of the region following lengthy

periods of conflict and turmoil. In recent

years, Eastern European cuisines have been

overlooked and underrated by the food media

in the West. The cuisines are overshadowed,

stereotyped as unremarkable, heavy and not

particularly innovative. This is the opposite of

my own experiences.

The Budapest

and the Marienbad

restaurants have long

served as London’s

quintessential

restaurants for Eastern

European-style dining,

but the list does not

end there. If you

scratch just beyond

the surface, you will

find that London can

boast a comprehensive

regional variety of

cooking styles which

includes, among others, Hungarian, Czech,

Ukrainian and Polish cuisines.

London has a standout gourmet food

emporium in Alicia’s Fine Foods on Trafalgar

Street near Highbury. Alicia’s stocks a vast

selection of Eastern European food products

with a focus on Poland, everything from

confectionery and chocolates to preserves,

condiments, canned fish, chestnut paste,

pączki and other challenging-to-find products.

Pączki are essentially fried and glazed

doughnuts made with a rich dough mixture

of eggs, fats, sugar and yeast, filled with fruit

purée or custard. Alicia’s has an extensive

delicatessen counter, large bakery and pastry

selection, and a European grocery section with

many Eastern European versions of products.

Anna Turkiewicz is a well-known caterer and

has been a Covent Garden Market mainstay

for the last two decades. She is the friendly,

hands-on owner of Kleiber’s Deli (at the

Market since 1940) and known for her quality

delicatessen and gourmet products, which

are procured from across Poland, Germany,

Holland, Switzerland and other parts of Europe.

Well-known to downtown food enthusiasts, for

whom Turkiewicz

prepares her

signature soups,

cabbage rolls,

schnitzels, sausages

and refutably the

finest pierogies

downtown for takeaway.

This is the style

of home cooking

Turkiewicz enjoyed

when growing up,

and later as a cook

and dietician in

Czestochowa, Poland,

where she met her

husband Andrzej, also a professional cook.

There are often line-ups that attest to Kleiber’s

popularity. This is where you can purchase

marzipan, quince jams, mustards, and holiday

confectionery. Turkiewicz is also the caterer at

the German-Canadian Club, where she operates

Anna’s Catering.

At the Market at Western Fair there is

Agnes Petenyi’s Hungarian-inspired Butcher’s

Wife and Evi’s Deli which is known for

Hungarian sausages, pepperettes and garlic

spread. Across the street from the Market,

Miki Hambleck’s The Hungary Butcher makes

over 40 varieties of European-style handmade

sausages with quality ingredients that are

mainly gluten-free. Hambleck uses all-natural

Chocolate Entremets (multi-layered mousse cakes)

with apricot and edible gold from Happiness Café


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

casings and no nitrates or fillers. The familyowned

and operated Bogal Homemade Pierogi

at the Market at Western Fair source local

January/February 2020 | 13

ingredients, many from within the market, to

make small-batch pierogi from scratch using

a traditional recipe with a contemporary twist.

Ukrainian “Happiness” in Downtown London

Nothing entirely represents a city like its café

culture. Olga and Anatolii Prytkova’s familyowned

Happiness Coffee and Desserts, on

Wellington Street across from One London Place,

features Ukrainian-inspired-style coffee and scratch

baking, including seasonal and specialty cakes,

macarons, cupcakes and chocolates. They offer an

excellent selection of delectable high-end doughnuts

such as glazed pistachio, crème brûlée, caramel-filled

with salted caramel, mango, and passion fruit. There are

croissants, waffles and some of the best European-style

sandwiches you will find in the city. The superb coffee

for their espresso-based drinks comes from specialty

craft roaster Hatch in Toronto.

The premises have a clean, modern feel with plate

glass windows allowing lots of natural light. There are

cups suspended from the ceiling like mobiles and other

cheerful and whimsical touches.

The name Happiness originated when the Prytkovas

lived in central Ukraine in the town of Kropyvnytskyi

(formerly Kirovohrad). A family friend purchased

a box of cakes that Olga had baked and said it was

like a box of happiness, and the name stuck. At the

time, they didn’t have a café, just a small kitchen for

custom orders. They named each of their boxes, “Box of

Happiness,” Prytkova’s said. “When we decided to open

our café in downtown London, we said now it’s not a

box, it’s a place of happiness.”

When the family initially moved to Canada they

settled in Winnipeg for a year and a half. Olga worked

for chocolatier Constance Popp, where they made fresh

premium artisan chocolates, pastries and frozen treats.

The Prytkovas did not like the colder prairie climate

and decided to relocate to London, which is closer in

size and weather to their former hometown in Ukraine.

In addition to their exquisite icings and glazes,

Happiness can laser print images on their cookies,

French macarons, mousse cakes and chocolates.

“People choose selfies, logos, or sweet messages,” says

Prytkova. “Your logo will not only look great but will

taste great too.”

1

2

Happiness Café

430 Wellington Street, London

519-204-2854

myhappiness.ca

tuesday to friday: 8:30 am–6 pm

saturday: 9 am–5 pm

sunday: 10 am–4 pm

closed monday

3

1 Entremets —multi-layered mousse cakes

2 A Signature Wedding Cake

3 A Variety of Cupcakes


14 | January/February 2020

Budapest Restaurant’s Renaissance

The landmark Budapest Restaurant has

been operating since 1956, and owners

Eduard Nagy and Anita Tasonyi,

20-year veterans of the establishment, have

been operating the restaurant for over a

year. Protégés of the legendary restaurateur

Marika Hayek, they continue to delight

clients by offering authentic Hungarian

food and drink. The restaurant is having a

renaissance; the kitchen has recently been

renovated and modernized, menus have

been refreshed, the glassware and silverware

updated. There is a new street-side canopied

Owners Anita

Tasonyi &

Eduard Nagy

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

patio for al fresco dining.

A local gem, with bohemian ambience and

a Roma Gypsy-style aesthetic with plush

velvet valances and curtained alcoves and

comfortable armchairs, the décor is a mix of

traditional designs, embroidery, lace, textures,

prints and photographs.

Two main rooms lead back from Dundas

Street linked by an arched passageway

across the middle, with an elevated ornate

banquet hall for private functions at the far

end. The feel is Old World European with

heart, and a deliciously authentic menu.

Confident, expansive cooking keeps

traditional Hungarian flavours front

and centre — think classic offerings

flavoured predominantly by woodsy,

smoky Hungarian paprika — dishes

that are precisely prepared and

expertly flavoured. Paprika is not just a

superficial specialty to garnish food, but

an integral element. Budapest is much

more than a venerable schnitzel house.

It is home to classic stroganoff and

blintz, all indicative of the cuisine.

Goulash (gulyás) originated as a

humble soup-stew, cooked over an open

fire by Hungarian herdsmen. Still, the

addition of refined varieties of paprika

from ground red chillies, tender beef,

and a rich tomato base have made the

dish an international staple. Goulash is

served here both as a hearty soup and as

an entrée. House-made pierogies filled

with potato and dill, fried golden and

topped with sour cream and bacon, are a

new addition to the appetizer selection.

Signature dishes include a variety of

superb schnitzels, dipped in egg batter,

coated with breadcrumbs and golden

fried. Iconic cabbage rolls are delicious

parcels of spiced pork and rice with a

creamy paprika sauce and served with

debreceni sausage. There are medallions

of pork tenderloin with garlic and

Hungarian spices, and slow-cooked

roast lamb shoulder with a cream and

mustard sauce. Traditional combination

platters or special prix-fixe Hungarian

dinners — served with nokedli (regional

Recent renovations include the installation

of a welcoming street-side canopied patio for

seasonal al fresco dining.


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

1

2

January/February 2020 | 15

Hungarian dumplings) are always delicious

— but save room for dessert. On offer are

a stunning classic walnut roll, house-made

strudels and palacsinta (crepes). At the

heart of the restaurant’s 64 years of success

is food thoughtfully prepared and crafted

with quality ingredients.

Chef is an innovator, adding interesting

contemporary twists to the dishes and

the plating. The passionate kitchen takes

a handful of top quality ingredients and

allows them to shine. That is Marika

Hayek’s legacy.

Friendly staff can accommodate dietary

requirements and restrictions. The familyrun

restaurant offers banquet facilities and

is available for lunch and dinner parties,

celebrations, business meetings and

weddings. Located downtown in the hotel

district, the restaurant is a short walk to

the Delta Armouries, DoubleTree by Hilton

and RBC Place London.

Budapest Restaurant

348 Dundas Street (at Waterloo)

519-439-3431

budapestrestaurant.com

monday–thursday: 11 am–2 pm; 4 pm–10 pm

friday: 11 am–2 pm; 4 pm–10 pm

saturday: 4 pm–10 pm

sunday: 4 pm–9 pm

Interior photos by NICK LAVERY

3

4

1 Hungarian dinners — served with nokedli (regional

Hungarian dumplings) — are always delicious

2 Signature dishes include superb schnitzels, dipped in egg

batter, coated with breadcrumbs and golden fried.

3 Chicken Schnitzel on a Kaiser

4 Braised cabbage roll served with nokedli and Debreceni

sausage

Dining Room Manager Julia


16 | January/February 2020

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

A Modern Polish Culinary Perspective:

Unique Food Attitudes in Old East Village

Barbara Czyz has operated Unique Food

Attitudes as a catering business for 24

years. Her seven-year-old bistro in Old

East Village across from the Palace Theatre

and the Ark Aid Mission has been an ongoing

success due to its accessible modern Polish

culinary perspective. The bistro with its black

slate counters, chrome accents, comfortable

seating, window seating and large

storefront windows with lots of natural

lighting continues to draw clients from

all over the city for the food and the

warm and friendly vibe.

Czyz and her husband, Jaroslaw

(Jarek), immigrated to London from

Poland via Greece in 1989. When Czyz

graduated from Fanshawe College’s

Culinary Management course in 1996,

she and two classmates formed a

catering company. One partner left

after six months and the other after

two years, leaving Czyz as the sole proprietor.

Czyz really upped the ante when she signed

exclusive catering contracts with Delta Emco

and Trojan Technologies, where she operates

the employee cafeterias, aided by Chef

Julianna Guy.

The menu and chalkboard offerings at

the Unique Food Attitudes bistro feature

traditional Polish cuisine with a seductive,

clean and minimalist flair. This is the cooking

of Czyz’s mother, the food that speaks the

Owner Barbara Czyz

truth of her family. The kitchen showcases

its versatility with house specialties such as

traditional kurek soup with kielbasa and egg,

and earthy red borscht with a distinctive

Photo courtesy of London Free Press

1

2

Traditional Polish cuisine

with chalkboard specials

and minimalist flair

1 Breaded Pork Cutlet with potatoes and mizeria

(cucumber salad)

2 Polish Poutine (cheddar pierogies covered with

goulash sauce and Cheddar cheese) and surówka z

czerwonej kapusty (red cabbage salad)


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

January/February 2020 | 17

sweet and sour flavour. There is

goulash ladled over crispy placki

(potato pancakes), krokiety (crepes),

bigos (sauerkraut-mushroommeat

stew) and tender pierogies

(dumplings) filled with sauerkraut

and/or mushrooms, meat, potato

and/or savoury cheese, with fried

onions. Specials have included stuffed

beef rolls with pickles, peppers and

onions smothered in a zesty mustard

sauce served with shredded carrot

salad and two perfect scoops of

mashed potatoes.

House-made cabbage rolls are

slow-cooked and made of pork, rice

and bacon. Sauce is often the main

difference in regional variations.

Czyz is known for a lighter sauce

that is a perfect complement to

her cabbage rolls. Signature Polish

poutine features house-made

Cheddar pierogies with goulash and

additional Cheddar cheese. We love

the crispy and perfectly balanced

mizeria (cucumber and sour cream

salad). There is sauerkraut salad

and a shredded red cabbage salad

that is otherworldly. There are apple

pancakes with fresh fruit and whipped

cream, French toast, crepes, omelets

and deli sandwiches on the breakfast

menu. There is sensuality to the food

and presentation. One day our server

recommended the lemon posset, on

another day, the szavlotka (apple cake)

and we have been devotees of the

desserts ever since. Czyz has built a

reputation for wedding and holiday

cakes, including her handmade

krokettas and schlegye that remind her

European clientele of their homelands.

Her son Matt is often serving in

the front of house, and daughter

Patrycja when home is on hand in the

restaurant. A staunch member of the

Polish community, Czyz continues to

support many community events.

Unique Food Attitudes

697 Dundas Street, London

519-649-2225

unique-food-attitudes.com

monday–wednesday: 9am–6 pm

thursday–saturday: 9 am–8 pm

sunday: closed

3

4

5

6

3 Bigos (sauerkraut-mushroom-meat stew) and fresh bread

4 Soup of the Day and Deli Sandwich

5 Goulash with Placki (potato pancakes) and surówka z czerwonej

kapusty (red cabbage salad)

6 Raspberry and Chocolate Cake


18 | January/February 2020

Aranka Csárda is a family-run Hungarian

restaurant on Longwoods Road, beside

Millar Berry Farms, just outside of

Lambeth. The Komaromi family take pride in

ownership and serve authentic, quality food. The

decor and colour scheme are meant to reflect

the ambience of an authentic Hungarian csárda

(traditionally a tavern on the outskirts of town).

Renovations on the former premises of George’s

Family Restaurant, which more recently had

housed Yia Yia’s Grille, commenced in the summer

of 2016, and Aranka Csárda officially opened

for business in November 2016. Recently the

restaurant survived six months of unrelenting

road construction.

Aranka, a popular traditional Hungarian name

derived from the Hungarian “arany” meaning

“gold”, translates to Goldie in English. It is the

name of Zoltan’s wife, who is known for her

cooking skills. In 1993, during the civil war, Zoltan

and Aranka, with two six-month-old twin boys

and a three-year-old daughter, left the town

of Ada in the former Yugoslavia (now in the

province of Vojvodina, Serbia) and immigrated

to Canada. Zoltan spent some time working

with the Hungarian Independent Film and Video

Association of Budapest, owning and operating Zoli

Video Productions after he arrived in Canada.

The casual white-linen dining room has

banquette seating as well as tables and chairs.

There is lots of natural light and the artifacts and

stoneware adorning the walls and windowsills

have been donated by the local Hungarian

community.

Chef Eva Szilagy is a Budapest native and it

is undoubtedly paprika that characterizes her

cuisine. Traditional recipes have their heart and

soul in the Hungarian classics. The cuisine uses

a lot of onions and sour cream, and butter is the

base for many of the homemade recipes.

Meats are sourced twice a week from the

Tribizan family-owned Mount Brydges Abattoir,

located 15 minutes outside London. The family

is known for quality fresh and smoked meats,

especially the sausages. Zolton says, due to the

abattoir owners’ Slovenian background, they

were able to introduce Hungarian Ribs on the

menu. These ribs require a special cut with lots of

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

Hungarian Tradition & Authenticity at Aranka Csárda

1

2

1 Owner Zoltan Komaromi and Chef Eva Szilagy

2 Just outside Lambeth, the restaurant offers ample

free parking

3 The casual white-linen dining room offers

comfortable seating and lots of natural light

3


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

meat on the back ribs. Traditionally Hungarian

Ribs are 7–8 cm thick, multi-layered and juicy.

Additional fat makes the ribs more tender.

Cabbage and sauerkraut are sourced from St.

Jacob’s Foods, a family farm in New Hamburg.

Zoltan’s 81-year-old father makes the trip

regularly to New Hamburg to pick up supplies.

Sour cabbage, a traditional Eastern European

staple, is a full head of cabbage, core removed,

that has been fermented in salt brine which they

use for their signature cabbage rolls. Sauerkraut

is made of shredded cabbage mixed with salt,

which draws out the natural juices of the cabbage,

creating brine for the lacto-fermentation process.

The menu offers gulyásleves, classic Hungarian

goulash with braised beef, potatoes, carrots and

nokedli (dumpling-like pinched noodles) and töltött

káposzta, marinated cabbage rolls with fermented

leaves stuffed with minced pork and rice served

with sauerkraut and tejföl (sour cream). There

are traditional töltött paprikas, which are peppers

stuffed with ground pork and rice and a sauce of

paprika and tomato. Marhapörkölt is Hungarian

beef stew served with nokedli and pickled

vegetables. The Csárda Platter for two consists

of marinated pork steak, breaded cod, garlicpaprika

meatballs, potato wedges, steamed rice

and homemade coleslaw. There is also a Pig Roast

Platter for two consisting of house-made liver

sausage, garlic and paprika sausage, marinated

pork steak, potato wedges and sauerkraut.

The designation “Hungary’s favourite cake”

is given to somlói Galuska, a decadent, trifle-like

dessert composed of sponge cake layered with

vanilla custard, chocolate, walnut and whipped

cream, served here in a coupe glass. There are fresh

and flaky strudels made in-house with apple or

cherry filling. An Eastern European staple, these

strudels are firmly of the Hungarian school. In

season, the restaurant features fresh strawberries

sourced from their neighbour Millar’s Berry Farms

January/February 2020 | 19

and strawberry palacsinta (crepes) become a

house specialty. Aranka features Hungarian

wines, beer and the world-famous pálinka,

the traditional, fermented fruit brandy.

4

5

Aranka Csárda

7447 Longwoods Road, London

519-652-9696

aranka.ca

tuesday–thursday: 11:30 am–9 pm

friday & saturday: 11:30 am–10 pm

sunday: 11:30 am–9 pm

monday: closed

4 Chicken Paprikash: Stewed quarter chicken with creamy

paprika sauce over nokedli

5 Somlói Galuska: “Hungary’s favourite cake” — a decadent,

trifle-like cake seen here with fresh Apple Strudel

6 Hortobágyi Palacsintae: Savoury chicken stuffed crepe with

paprika and sour cream.

6


20 | January/February 2020

The Marienbad is one of downtown

London’s landmark restaurants where

you are sure to find European clientele,

who come for the relaxed ambience and

traditional offerings. More than half the items

on the menu are dishes the Marienbad has been

serving since 1974. The defining characteristics

of the cuisine are traditionally Czech and

deeply connected to other Central European

dishes due to ever-changing borders.

Marienbad endured construction outside

the restaurant for two years while Fanshawe

College was being built at the site of the

former Kingsmill’s Department Store. Times

were difficult. Owner Jerry Pribil has said

he was indebted and thankful to his loyal

clientele and dedicated staff. Without them,

the Marienbad would not have survived. Pribil

persevered, keeping staffing to a minimum.

Fortunately, Pribil had additional employment

teaching hotel and restaurant management in

the United States and Europe.

Chef Klaus Campbell, originally from

Germany, took over the kitchen in 1988 when

he became the head chef. Chef’s thick and

creamy dill pickle and potato soup is, to many

people who question the pickle, surprisingly

tangy and complex. Especially popular are

house specialties like goulash with Bohemian

dumplings and earthy chicken paprikash

served with Haluska (cabbage and noodles).

The Carlsbad rouladen is thinly sliced beef

wrapped around ham, a gerkin and egg and

served with dumplings.

Schnitzels have always been a mainstay at

the Marienbad, and they are more varied than

you might imagine. The ideal schnitzel has a

crispy, dry crust that rises like a soufflé and

shatters with the touch of a fork, revealing

tender, thinly-pounded meat within. A variety

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

Marienbad Restaurant: A Czech-Inspired Classic

Marienbad has offered a taste

of Europe since 1974 in one of

downtown London’s oldest

heritage buildings (c. 1854)

of classic schnitzels are on offer, such as crisp

Jäger schnitzel with a creamy mushroom sauce,

and Franz Josef schnitzel stuffed with ham

and Swiss cheese and lightly seasoned with

mustard. Classic Wiener schnitzel (meaning

Viennese cutlet) is prepared traditionally

with veal. During the Schnitzel fest at the

Recently renovated, the

restaurant exudes Old

World style and elegance

Marienbad, they offer a variety of schnitzels

that include Devil Schnitzel, which is natural

pork topped with sautéed mushrooms and hot

peppers. There is also Franconian Schnitzel,

which consists of breaded pork topped with

roasted bacon, mushrooms, cheese and

Hollandaise sauce. Other iterations include

lamb and tuna steak schnitzels.

Classic Czech open-face sandwiches are all

about the taste, and characterized as being rich

and complex in flavour. Creamy chicken liver

pâté piped open-face onto pumpernickel and

garnished with green olives is reminiscent of

quality liverwurst. At lunch there is a Russian

egg, an open-face sandwich with a chopped

egg on potato salad topped with salami, ham,

Swiss cheese and caviar. The traditional Czech

Ploughman has house potato salad on French

stick topped with mildly smoked

Prague Ham. Wenceslas cheese,

a Czech classic, is Edam cheese,

coated with breadcrumbs and

deep-fried to gooey perfection.

Sharing similar characteristics

in aroma and flavour, beer and

cheese complement each other.

The Ploughman and Wenceslas

Cheese are ideally suited to

beer pairings. The natural

carbonation in beer elevates

the palate and accentuates the

nuances in the cheese.


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

Marienbad shares a seasonal

European-style sidewalk patio

with partner Chaucer’s Pub

There is apple strudel, a variety of cakes

and several versions of palatschinka with

liqueurs —similar to French crêpes — thin

and golden brown, served with chocolate

or hot raspberries. We like the semi-frozen

Marienbad Bombe, a house specialty with

brandied fruit over ice cream.

The adjoining Chaucer’s Pub offers a casual

ambience and is comfortable and pleasant,

featuring a selection of craft beers and imports

January/February 2020 | 21

that will surprise the most discerning patrons.

Try one of the 12 European beers on tap,

poured and presented according to tradition.

While there is an emphasis on Belgian beers,

there are roughly 85 different brews from six

continents. As well, there is an exceptional

selection of single malt scotches on offer.

The Marienbad boasts a variety of private

rooms such as the “Fireplace Room” that seats

up to 85 people, the “Prague Room” seating

up to 45, and the “Atrium” with its mural of

Carlsbad, which seats up to 40 guests.

The Marienbad’s most preferred dish is their

celebrated Wiener schnitzel — no matter

what time of the year. The second most

requested crowd-pleaser is the hearty goulash.

Marienbad Restaurant

122 Carling Street, London

519-679-9940

marienbad.ca

monday–thursday: 11:30 am–10:00 pm

friday & saturday: 11:30 am–10:30 pm

sunday: 4:30 pm–9 pm

Restaurant photos by STEVE GRIMES.

BRYAN LAVERY, Eatdrink Food Editor and Writer at

Large, brings years of professional experience in the

restaurant and hospitality business, as a chef, restaurant

owner ,and partner in the culinary experience and

consulting business, Lavery Culinary Group. Always on

the lookout for stories Eatdrink should be telling, he helps

shape the magazine under his byline and behind the scenes.

2

1

1 Hungarian Goulash is tender Beef in a hearty sauce

with Bohemian dumplings

2 Jäger Schnitzel, tender pan-seated pork served with a

decadent mushroom gravy brandy.


Stratford is

more than

great theatre


visitstratford.ca

@StratfordON

"A fun place to shop

for housewares and gifts!"

WATSON'S

CHELSEA BAZAAR

84 Ontario St. Stratford

watsonsofstratford.com

519-273-1790


24 | January/February 2020

SPONSORED BY

Road Trips

Can You Drive to Italy?

Eataly Toronto Is Now Open

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

By BRYAN LAVERY

What is more exciting than

planning a winter culinary

getaway? Toronto’s Eataly

offers the type of authentic

culinary experience that is sought out not

just by locals, but food and drink enthusiasts

from around the globe. This is Canada’s first

iteration, and given its success it seems likely

that Montreal will be a contender for Eataly in

the not too distant future.

In January 2007 the Italian visionary and

entrepreneur Oscar Farinetti converted an

abandoned vermouth factory in Torino into

the first Eataly location. He had travelled

across the 20 regions that comprise Italy to

locate and select a variety of quality regional

products which embrace Slow Food’s partner’s

qualifications for food that is good, clean,

and fair. (Slow Food is the grassroots global

organization founded in 1989 to combat the

erosion of local food culture, tradition, and

encroaching fast-food culture. The initiative has

evolved into a global movement that engages

millions of people in over 160 countries.)

Toronto’s Eataly, the company’s 40th

location, occupies 50,000 square feet and

employs more than 300 people. A $100

million redevelopment of Toronto’s Manulife

La Piazza is a restaurant in the heart of the store,

inspired by the traditional Italian town square.

Centre, a prestige address located at Bay and

Bloor, added a glass façade to the property

to incorporate the new retail space. Inside

the Centre, a reconfiguration and a shuffling

of several crucial tenant spaces allowed for

the construction of the high-concept Eataly

Toronto — a vast culinary utopia.

Eataly reflects the distinguishing characteristics

of the biodiversity of the Italian culinary

repertoire, focusing on the finest regionalspecific

products and traditional ingredients

Italy has to offer. Also on offer is a selection

of small-scale specialty products from dairy

farmers, cheesemakers and butchers. This

is part of Eataly’s philosophy of procuring

locally-sourced products.

The main entrance to Eataly and Il Gran Caffe, a fullservice

Italian Coffee Bar, is on Bloor Street east of Bay.


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

January/February 2020 | 25


26 | January/February 2020

You can sip

Italian wine,

a Negroni,

Aperol

Spritz or

other Italian

aperitivo

while you

shop, peruse

the aisles

or partake

in a tasting

or cooking

class. There

is seating

La Scuola (Cooking School) for 400 in

the three

restaurants. A fourth, Trattoria Milano, will

open soon on the main floor next to Il Gran

Caffé, an upscale full-service coffee bar from

Italian coffee roaster illy. The ground floor

caffé offers high-quality coffee-based drinks,

confectionery, panini, and a selection of

Italian wines, beer and spirits.

There are multiple market counters,

including a butcher, a baker, a cheesemonger,

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

fresh mozzarella counter, olive oil and

balsamico tasting bar, and fresh pasta and

pizza counters. There are also fruit and

vegetable stands in the food emporium. Eataly

features several bars, a cooking school and

an in-house brewery (in partnership with

Toronto’s Indie Alehouse Brewing Co.).

Menu offerings are traditional and straightforward,

featuring hand-crafted and quality

Italian ingredients, executed with skill and an

eye to detail. In Italy, gastronomy developed

along provincial lines. Until the unification

of Italy in 1861, there was no national Italian

cuisine. The reality of Italian cookery is that

it is a merger of distinct and diverse regional

cuisines and their subsets. The home still

remains the safeguard of Italian indigenous

cooking and culinary traditions, and this is

reflected in the restaurant’s offerings.

On our first visit we ate at La Piazza,

a restaurant in the heart of the store. Its

concept was inspired by the traditional

Italian town square. The tables are situated

close together. We arrived promptly at 11

a.m. to get a good table overlooking Balmuto

Street. La Piazza does not take reservations,

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eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

January/February 2020 | 27

1 2 3

and the restaurant filled up quickly. From a

fairly extensive menu, we ordered agnolotti

del plin brasato con burro, (Piedmonteseinspired

pork- and veal-stuffed pasta) with

a traditional sauce of butter and sage and

Parmigiano-Reggiano. Agnolotti del plin’s

name is derived from the regional dialect for

“pinch,” which is how the pasta is formed.

This course was followed by a creamy Burrata

(fresh cow milk cheese) served at room

1 Pasta Fresca Counter: Fresh Pasta Handmade Daily

2 Piedmontese-style agnolotti stuffed with pork and

veal with butter and Parmigiano-Reggiano

3 A Chef at La Scuola

temperature, from the region of Puglia, and a

side of house-marinated green olives with bay

leaf, chilli and citrus. Next we had the thickcrust

Capricciosa pizza baked in a small round

pan and topped with Gran Biscotto prosciutto,

Freshly home-made in the heart of the community

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thevillageteapot.ca

519-298-TEAS (8327)



Travel the slow roads to charming tidy towns, music-filled

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Regional Office: 31 Nottinghill Gate, Suite 203, Oakville

TICO#50013851


28 | January/February 2020

The Formaggi Counter: Tiers of

Wheels of Parmigiano-Reggiano

Cotta Rovagnati (cooked ham from the region

of Lombardy), olives (there are an estimated

538 cultivars of olives in Italy), artichokes,

homemade hand-stretched mozzarella and

Mutti-brand tomato sauce. Three distinct

regional types of pizza are available in

different areas. Servers are knowledgeable

about the cuisine.

Fresh kinds of region-specific pasta,

prepared from scratch on-site, include fiore

de zucca (literally pumpkin flower), ravioli de

ricotta e spinaci, cacao e pepe alla Romana,

black squid-ink linguine (which I purchased

fresh for the 13-meatless-course “Vigilia” feast

on Christmas Eve) campanelle, bucantini,

quadrati and several other varieties. Every

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

fresh pasta shape (we counted over a dozen)

is extruded through a bronze mould and airdried

to ensure the pasta is of the optimal

consistency to stick to the sauce. You can

purchase pasta by weight at the counter and

have it packaged in a pristine, white cardboard

box for takeaway, or you can order different

kinds of pasta to eat in one of the restaurants.

There are over 400 different varieties of

regional cheese produced in Italy. Many

varieties differ according to region and

production method. A dedicated formaggio

counter features many hand-crafted cheeses

on rotation, including fresh types procured

locally from Canadian suppliers. There is a

4-tier shelf of Parmigiano-Reggiano wheels,

each one crafted with 500 litres of milk and

priced around $2,000. In Italy, certification

laws require that Parmigiano-Reggiano

be made according to a specific recipe and

production methods, and only within specific

geographical regions.

Executive pastry chef Katia Delogu trained

in Torino, the home of Eataly’s pastry

program. Her team brings a passion for pure

and simple ingredients to Eataly’s Pasticceria,

from crunchy cantucci to buttery biscotti to

Delogu’s mother’s take on tiramisu. Signature

dolci (sweet desserts, cakes and pastries)

exemplify the art of Italian confectionary.

Torronato is a stunning hazelnut-nougat

studded mascarpone cream, sweetened with

honey, layered with espresso-soaked rice

sponge cake, and finished with cocoa-dusted

chocolate squares. There is millefoglie alla

gianduja, flaky puff pastry layered with

gianduja (paste made of chocolate and

ground hazelnuts) pastry cream, frosted

with Chantilly cream and finished with

crushed hazelnuts and gianduja. There is the

incredible Italian gourmet chocolatier Venchi,

a cannoli station, and an artisanal gelato

station featuring flavours such as maple and

pistachio.

As an Italian culinary aficionado, student

and teacher, trips to Italy have been among

my favourite culinary journeys. Eataly brings

an authentic Italian experience to downtown

Toronto.

The Enoteca Bar

BRYAN LAVERY, Eatdrink Food Editor and Writer

at Large, brings years of professional experience in

the restaurant and hospitality business, as a chef,

restaurateur and partner in the culinary consulting

business and experience provider, Lavery Culinary Group.


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

eatdrink

2020 London

Wine & Food Show

Profiles of

Excellence

SUPPLEMENT

Cowbell Brewing Co.

Winning Together

Dairy Distillery

A Proudly Canadian Spirit


30

eatdrink

Profiles of Excellence

Winning Together

Cowbell Brewing Co.

Craft Beer that Rings True

The Cowbell Experience

Cowbell Kitchen, the restaurant at the brewery, specializes in truly

local farm-to-table fare, with over 75% of the food served sourced in

Huron County, paired beautifully with Cowbell beers and Farm Exclusive

draught offerings. The Cowbell team curates a fresh, seasonal menu

with daily features, delicious

appetizers, farm-made

burgers, wood-fired pizzas

and vegan, vegetarian,

dairy-free and gluten-free

selections. Guest favourites

include the ‘Royale Pizza’

and ‘The Wagyu’ burger,

featuring locally grown

Wagyu beef from Grazing Meadows Wagyu located 20 kilometers from

The Farm. Cowbell beers are highlighted throughout the menu, along

with an impressive list of farm-made cocktails and Huron County wines.

“We would like everyone to feel welcome at Cowbell,” said Grant

Sparling, Chief Development Officer. “Enjoy a pint of craft beer and

experience a taste of what Huron County has to offer.”

With 26,000 square feet to explore, guests may take a guided or selfguided

tour and enjoy unobstructed catwalk views of almost everything,

including the state-of-the-art brewhouse. Thresher’s Hall and The Loft

provide one-of-a-kind settings

for private events and intimate

weddings. Whether you’re

stopping in for a pint, shopping

at the Cowbell General

Store or celebrating a special

occasion, Cowbell offers something

for everyone.

Cowbell Brewing Co. is Canada’s Destination

Brewery. Family-friendly and accessible, this

award-winning brewery is committed to

making world-class craft beer. And making

a difference. Taking generations of business

expertise into craft brewing, Steven and

the third generation, Grant Sparling II, lead

an ambitious team that is committed to

outstanding beer, local food and memorable

experiences at the Cowbell Farm.

Community-

Inspired Brews

Cowbell’s skilled brewing team creates

exceptional recipes using the highest

quality ingredients. The Founders’

Series beers are available year-round,

representing Cowbell’s creative

interpretations of six classic beer styles.

Each beer is named for remarkable, true

characters of Blyth’s past and the story

on every can shares a piece of Blyth’s

history with the world.

For more adventurous beer fans,

the Renegade Series and the

Anniversary Series, featuring

Almanac and Reunion, a solera-style

beer, explore courageous flavours while

showcasing the talent of the brewing

team. Act fast! These specialty beers are

only available in limited quantities.


Commitment to the Environment

Cowbell is committed to being a good steward of the land, just as generations

of farmers have before. Whether through the brewery building or design and

operation, Cowbell is sincere in its efforts to maintain highly sustainable practices.

Beyond the beautiful wood-frame structure, Cowbell has incorporated

building design, materials, and best of class operations to improve efficiency

and to reduce the impact on the local environment. Cowbell also participates

in a carbon sequestration program, achieved through an onsite reforestation

project consisting of 17,000 trees and pollinators.

In Your Community

Cowbell gives back with the sale of each and every pint or can

of beer. From the very first pint sold in May 2016, Cowbell has

donated five-cents to their Greener Pastures Community

Fund. This fund supports life-enhancing programs to improve

children’s health and well-being at Ontario’s four children’s

hospitals: Children’s Hospital in London, SickKids in

Toronto, McMaster Children’s Hospital in Hamilton and the

Children’s Hospital of Eastern Ontario in Ottawa. The fund

also provides support for programming at the Canadian Centre

for Rural Creativity in Blyth. By the end of November 2019,

$360,000 has been donated to Cowbell’s community partners.

“For every pint or can of Cowbell sold in your community,

the donation is to your local children’s hospital,” says Sparling.

“Thanks to friends of Cowbell, we have accomplished amazing

things — and we are

just getting started.

A nickel can make a

meaningful impact in

the life of a child facing

health complications,

and we are grateful

for the support of the

communities around us.”

Winning Together

Cowbell is designed to be about more than great beer.

To the Sparlings, Cowbell is about family, economic

development and community success. It is about working

hard to craft a winning recipe for their success and the

success of people and communities. It’s a commitment

to working together and winning together.

Cowbell Brewing Co.

40035 Blyth Rd, Blyth

844-523-4724

cowbellbrewing.com

Profiles of Excellence eatdrink 31

Cowbell General Store

The Cowbell experience does not end when

you leave. The Cowbell General Store features

Cowbell gear — most of it made in Canada

— and Cowbell beer. Take home something to

remember your trip to The Farm. Cowbell beer is

available in cans and growlers, and small-batch

beers are available in 750mL and 1.5L bottles. The

General Store also features a selection of “guest

favourite” Cowbell Kitchen products that have been

developed with local businesses, including a line

of rubs and sauces with Garlic Box from Hensall,

custom roasted coffee with ShopBike Coffee in

Bayfield, and custom chocolate treats with Rhèo

Thompson in Stratford. Most merchandise is also

available at the Cowbell Online Store.


32

eatdrink

Profiles of Excellence

A Proudly Canadian Spirit

Dairy Distillery

Innovation Using Ontario Milk

A truly remarkable spirit is

the product of the character

of its ingredients, the

mastery of its making and

the depth of its story.

Environmental & Social Benefits

All spirits are made by fermenting sugar. Dairy Distillery uses a sugar

rarely used to make spirits: milk sugar. Milk sugar, or lactose, is a natural,

healthy sugar. It was first fermented to make alcohol by the Mongols over

a thousand years ago. While milk sugar produces a cleaner, smoother,

gluten-free spirit, it never became popular with distillers due to its high

cost and production challenges.

Milk from 3,500 Ontario dairy farms is sent to large processors where

the cream is removed to make butter and the proteins concentrated to

make ultrafiltered milk used by cheese and yogurt makers. When making

ultrafiltered milk, a sugar rich liquid called milk permeate is produced.

Most milk permeate is dumped, creating a

strain on the environment and a disposal cost

for dairy farmers.

In this “waste,” Dairy Distillery Founder &

CEO Omid McDonald saw an opportunity to

make world-class spirits with the potential

to support hard working local farmers and

the environment. In collaboration with the

University of Ottawa, a process to convert

milk permeate into an unbelievably smooth

spirit has been perfected. Thanks to this

process, anything that Dairy Distillery

doesn’t bottle can be safely put back into

the environment. And buying milk permeate

helps Ontario dairy farmers.


Vodkow: More than “Local Vodka”

What does innovation taste like? In a word: DELICIOUS! One could call this

“local vodka” but Dairy Distillery has branded their unique clear spirit as

Vodkow. It is both lactose and sugar free.

It’s subtly sweet on the nose with traces of

vanilla. The palate provides

a velvety smooth experience

that fades beautifully into a

sparkling clean finish accented

by a hint of whipped cream.

The spirit has character to

be enjoyed on its own while

being versatile to mix in your

favourite cocktail.

Dairy Heritage

Meets State-ofthe-Art

Design

Dairy Distillery built its state-of-the-art micro distillery in Almonte,

a small 19th-century mill town situated along the scenic Canadian

Mississippi River, a short drive from Ottawa. Almonte has become a

foodie destination of note, and its limestone mill buildings have been

lovingly preserved and now house an eclectic mix of boutiques, craft

shops and galleries. Dairy Distillery is proud to be part of this inspiring

community and has planted roots in Almonte for generations to come.

A reflection of our dairy heritage and Dairy Distillery’s modern

outlook, the building is a perfect union of agricultural and contemporary

design. A 30-foot pitched roof supported by gorgeous Douglas Fir timbers

creates a stunning workspace for the crafting of fine spirits. Germanmade

copper Christian Carl stills are proudly displayed in an all-glass

front facade. Consistent with its environmental mission, the distillery

uses the latest conservation technology including radiant floors, heat

exchangers and water reclamation.

Tours & Tastings

Available

at the LCBO

Vodkow

(750 ml)

$35.95

Profiles of Excellence eatdrink 33

Gingerbread White Russian Cocktail

Fermented, Distilled & Bottled at:

34 Industrial Drive, Almonte ON

613-256-6136

dairydistillery.com

Enjoy a Vodkow sample at the distillery store.

Free tours are available on request during opening

hours (a tour takes about 15 minutes). You’ll also

find Vodkow in two sizes and merchandise for sale.

Shop online and have Vodkow sent right to your

door. And show your support for the moovement

with great Dairy Distillery gear and apparel!


34 | January/February 2020

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

Beer

Expand Your Beer Palate

Recommendations Outside the Average Comfort Zone

By GEORGE MACKE

Sipping a fine beverage isn’t just

for fans of wine and whiskey.

Many beer drinkers are moving on

from quaffing the mild tastes of

cream ales, ambers, and lagers in favour of

savouring the tastes of patiently-brewed

craft beers.

From wax seals covering bottle caps, to

walls of bourbon or wine barrels, to the

Flanders Red by Forked River, London

— Available in vintages from 2016, 2017 and

2018, Flanders Red is a Flemish-style beer

aged in wine barrels. It has flavours of black

sourcing of intriguing hops, there are many

tip-offs as to what constitutes a beer meant to

be enjoyed with contemplation.

Generally, these beers have a higher alcohol

content and are dark. In other cases, sourcing

of new or rare-to-Canada varieties of hops

makes them intriguing. Frequently, these are

seasonals, meaning once the batch is sold out it

will be unavailable for a year or more.

cherries, plums and red currants. It’s strong

in alcohol at 7.3 per cent, but not quite the

beastly Reforest Kelly, another Forked River

sipper which measured 11.5 per cent alcohol.


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

Flanders Red — the style

has been dubbed “the

Burgundy of Belgium”

— is quite sour and,

while its appeal

among beer drinkers

is limited, those who

like it like it a lot.

Burton Ale by Anderson Craft Ales, London

— Do you enjoy checking out lesser-known

beer styles? Anderson has been known to

unearth several for its annual beer festival

(Kentucky Common, anyone?).

Burton ale is a style named for

Burton-on-Trent, England,

which was once a leading

brewing centre in the U.K.

Think balanced and

bready. Anderson’s

version is 5.2 per

cent alcohol.

Reunion 1st Solera Vintage by Cowbell

Brewing, Blyth — This is Cowbell’s risktaking

blended beer. Cowbell is blending beers

and releasing the aged results each year at the

end of November. This first release from the

distinctive

matte black

tank sitting

next to the

Cowbell bar

is a blend of

barley wine

and imperial stout. Available in conditioned

bottles at the Cowbell store, Reunion can

be cellared for years. The taste is not for the

meek.

Steampunk Sour by Railway City

Brewing, St. Thomas — While Railway City

seems to be tilting towards

approachable, broad

appeal beers, Steampunk

Sour is different.

There are flavours of

blackberries and dark

cherries, and it’s the

tartness, not the meagre

4 per cent alcohol, which

makes this more of a sipper

and less of a beer to quaff.

January/February 2020 | 35

Dark Side Chocolate Stout by Upper

Thames Brewing, Woodstock — Rich

and delicious, Dark Side is aged on roasted

chocolate nibs from the

Ivory Coast via Woodstock’s

Habitual Chocolate. It’s

not just a post-dinner

beer or a pair-mewith-ice-cream

choice. Dark Side

also pairs wonderfully

with the creamy Dark

Side of the Moo cheese

from Gunn’s Hill. Not

coincidentally, that cheese has

been soaked for four days in Dark Side.

40210 Coffee Blonde by Refined Fool,

Sarnia — This may be a first. Coffee-infused

beers are everywhere, but with dark stouts,

not crushable blondes. Refined Fool

used beans from Ground

Up Roastery in Sarnia

for what sounds on

paper to be the craft

beer version of a

Tim Horton’s coffee.

The name is a nod

to Sarnia’s two main

highways.


36 | January/February 2020

B’Urban Legend Oatmeal Stout by London

Brewing — Aged in

bourbon barrels, a fresh

batch of this returning

beer was released in

December. Oatmeal

stouts are a popular

style at craft

breweries. The use

of oatmeal provides

a smooth, rich body to the stout.

Rolling in the DIPA by Storm Stayed,

London — What’s a list of quality beers to

sip without a double IPA? Rolling in the DIPA

comes in at a staggering 68 IBU and is a strong

8.2 per cent alcohol. Double IPAs crank up

the hop content to twice or more the usual

amount,

creating a

glorious

taste

experience

for hopheads

who’ve become bored with regular

IPAs. For others, double IPAs like this are best

paired with a glass of water.

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

Soos’ Juices by Natterjack Brewing, West

Lorne — Unusual in that

this strong, 9 per cent

alcohol, uses so-called

chocolate malt (named for

its colour, not its flavour)

to bring a nutty flavour to

the beer.

Tail Feather by Black

Swan, Stratford — Tail Feather is an India

brown ale. Think of it as a

marriage between a familiar

IPA and a brown ale, both

hoppy and malty. The

Black Swan version is 6

per cent alcohol and in IPA

territory with a bitterness

measurement of 43 IBU. Tasting

notes refer to chestnut and burnt sugar.

Dingman Dark Lager by

Hamlet Hall, Stratford —

Featuring local Midnight

Wheat Malt, Dingman Dark

Lager, aka Schwartzbier, is

earthy, smooth and crisp.

It’s 5.6 per cent alcohol and

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the anti-IPA, with only token hop bitterness.

German-inspired, the name is a nod to the

former publisher of the local daily newspaper in

whose old building Hamlet Hall now operates.

Galactic Golden Imperial Wheat by

Toboggan Brewing and Powerhouse

Brewing, London — Gone? Coming back?

We’re not certain Galactic will be available

by the time beer fans read this list. This

intriguing collaboration between two of

London’s craft brewers was

first poured midfall.

This style-bender is 9 per cent alcohol

with a tropical fruit taste thanks to Galaxy

and Mosaic hops. There’s a hint of bitterness,

but mostly this one’s about the malt.

GEORGE MACKE is a Londoner with a passion for

craft beer.

NEW

WINTER

MENU

FLIGHTS & BITES

HALF PRICE Sharing Plates & Oysters

Tuesday–Friday from 3:30–5:30pm

SUNDAY INDUSTRY NIGHTS

20% OFF!

Join us for Londonlicious! Jan 10–Feb 2

TUES–SAT Lunch & Dinner 11:30am to Close

SUNDAY Brunch 11am & Dinner

449 Wharncliffe Road South

519.914.2699


38 | January/February 2020

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

Wine

Baby, It’s Cold Outside

Local Red Wines to Warm You Up

By GARY KILLOPS

The Christmas tree has been taken

down and you have put all the

ornaments away in boxes for

another year. The holidays are over

and baby, it’s cold outside. Days are short,

nights are long and for the next few months

we will all be longing for those hot summer

days when we have that glass of crisp,

refreshing white wine in our hands.

For many of us there is a seasonality to the

type of wine we drink. More white wines in

the summer, and red wines in the winter. In

the winter months, we crave comfort wines

— big, bold, and complex red wines that

stimulate our taste buds.

Merlots, cabernets, pinot noirs and

other red blends offer what we are seeking

during the winter doldrums. Here for your

consideration are some must-sip reds from

our local wineries.

Pelee Island

Lighthouse

Cabernet Franc

(LCBO# 145441,

$13.95) — Did

you know that

cabernet franc

and sauvignon

blanc are the

parent grapes

to Cabernet

Sauvignon?

This cab franc

from Pelee

Island Winery

is a

tasty

valuepriced

wine

that

delivers

a

good

bang for

the buck! Red

cherry fruit with

a hint of green pepper

notes. Juicy, mediumbodied

and, while the finish is

dry, the fruit offers an impression

of sweetness. Very easy drinking on

its own, or

consider pairing

with burgers or a

hearty winter dish such as

meatballs in tomato sauce.


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

Lifting Spirits and Sales

CREW Cabernet Franc 2016 (VINTAGES#

315945, $22.95) — I’ve probably said this

before, but it is worth mentioning again.

The red wines from Colchester Ridge Estate

Winery (CREW) are always superior.

You cannot go wrong picking up

any of the red wines, and this one

does not disappoint. It is a very

complex cab franc. Ripe red berry

fruits, baking spices, turned earth,

leather, and vanilla notes. The

alcohol content approaches 14%

giving the wine a full-bodied

mouthfeel and the acidity is

very crisp and cleansing. While

you might not be able to fire up

the BBQ for a few months, this

cab franc will pair well with a

grilled steak or Sunday roast and

potatoes.

Niagara’s Finest Small Batch

Wine, Beer and Cider Products

inspiirit.ca

Tina Roberts

troberts@inspiirit.ca

Our Wine, Your CREW

The new CREW Winery & Gallery is officially open!

The tasting bar is open year round, and a new galley

lunch menu launches March 4. Taste local wines, see

original art, and take in our vineyard views.

Colchester Ridge Estate Winery

108 Essex County Road 50, Harrow ON

519-738-9800

@crewinery


40 | January/February 2020

Cooper’s Hawk 2017 Cabernet Franc

(LCBO# 585950, $19.95) — This is an LCBO

general list wine that can be found

in the Ontario VQA wine section

of many LCBO’s. The 2017 vintage

of this wine can now be found on

the shelf and this is the one you

should pick if given the choice

between the 2016 or 2017 vintage.

Ripe red berry fruits, spice,

herbs, and exotic violet flowers.

Mouth watering acidity is a good

indication that this wine is very

food-friendly. Medium plus firm

tannins suggest that you could

also cellar this one for a few

years, if you can resist

the temptation to

open sooner. Consider

pairing with roast pork,

beef tenderloin or lamb.

Pelee Island Pinot Noir (LCBO#

135939, $14.95) — Pelee Island

Winery makes a few different

pinot noirs at different price

points. After the Christmas

holidays it is time to buckle

down and become a little more

budget-conscious, as all those

bills start rolling in. For a pinot

noir priced under $15 this one is

an excellent value

Pelee Island Baco Noir (LCBO#

485128, $12.95) — Baco noir is a French

American hybrid red wine grape

that is very winter-hardy and grows

well in cool climate regions such as

Ontario, Nova Scotia, New York,

and Michigan. Deep dark purple,

almost inky in colour, black berry

and plum fruits, smoky notes and

high acidity. Baco has a rustic

quality and can be kind of edgy.

But when made right, it is very

fruity and lush. Pelee’s baco noir

delivers and is worthy of opening

on one of these cold winter

evenings.

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

Viewpointe Estate Cabernet

Merlot (LCBO# 220723, $13,95)

— When this red blend from

Viewpointe Estate Winery in Lake

Erie North Shore first appeared

on the shelf at the LCBO it is was

$12.95. Some seven or eight years

later it is only a dollar more. That

beats the rate of inflation. This

wine drinks more like a twentydollar

red blend. It is an excellent

value. Red cherry, blueberry, and

plum fruit notes, black earth

and saddle leather. That’s a lot of

complexity in a fourteen-dollar

bottle of wine!

Sprucewood Shores Estate Winery

Warm ‘n’ Cozy Mulled Wine (LCBO#

348524, $11.95) — And finally, a wine

that will keep you warm and cozy

in the winter. Mulled wine origins

can be traced back to the United

Kingdom. Basically, the recipe for

mulled wine is to mix one large

cupful of water for every half

litre of wine, adding sugar and

spice to taste. The spices usually

used for mulled wine are cloves,

grated nutmeg, and cinnamon.

The concoction is usually heated

before serving. Sprucewood

Shores Estate Winery has taken

most the work out of the mix

and suggests that you empty

the bottle into a pot and warm

to your preference. Garnish with

cinnamon sticks or a slice of orange. That will

warm you up!

GARY KILLOPS is a CAPS

Certified Sommelier who loves to talk,

taste, and write about wine. He shares his

tasting notes on EssexWineReview.com


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

January/February 2020 | 41

The BUZZ

Culinary Community Notes

New and Notable

London

We recently attended the Pillar Nonprofit Network

Community Innovation Awards, where all finalists

are inspiring and deserving of recognition.

Community Innovation Award finalists included

Human Environment Analysis Lab (HEAL) at

Western University, 519 Pursuit (a non-profit

helping the homeless) and the winner, the

London Food Coalition (consisting of 23 agencies

invested in food security and eliminating food

waste). 519 Pursuit went on to win the Community

Choice Award. Urban Roots (a non-profit that

revitalizes underused land for agriculture in the

City of London, producing high-quality organic

vegetables and herbs which are distributed directly

to consumers and social enterprises) won the

Community Impact Award. Several of the finalists

were lauded for their work in recognizing food

security, and all for supporting our community’s

most vulnerable citizens. All of these essential

initiatives deserve our support.

The London Wine & Food Show is ready to pop

some corks in celebration of its 15th anniversary!

Thursday, January 16 to Saturday, January 18 at the

Western Fair District Agriplex. Tickets are now on

sale. westernfairdistrict.com

Located just west of London’s downtown core and

its namesake Blackfriars Bridge, Betty Heydon’s

Blackfriars Bistro is within walking distance of the

core but, in Heydon’s words, “away from the hustle

and bustle.” Located in one of London’s heritage

neighbourhoods, the restaurant draws a loyal

clientele for the innovative, farm-to-table inspired

cuisine. Many know the restaurant not only for

its stellar bistro dining but also for personalized

catering services. 46 Blackfriars Street, London,

519-667-4930, blackfriarsbistro.com

London Brewing cares deeply about the quality of

its ingredients and the sustainability of its products.

It is one of two Certified Organic craft breweries in

Ontario and one of less than 20 in all of Canada.

London Brewing is a democratic enterprise owned

by its employee members — they seek to create

great beer, good jobs, and to have a positive impact

on their community. 521 Burbrook Place, London,

226-667-6363, londonbrewing.ca

Petit Paris Crêperie & Pâtisserie is proud to

announce that its sister company, The Coop

Rotisserie, has a second location. The Coop Express

drive through/takeout restaurant features such

items as mouth-watering rotisserie chicken,

sandwiches, hand-cut fries, mac ‘n’ cheese, soups,

quiche and healthy salads from the Covent Garden

Market location. 1146 Commissioners Rd E.

Justin and Gregg Wolfe have opened Holy Diver,

on the site of the former Nite Owl, next to the

Early Bird Diner on Talbot between King and

Exceptional Food. Outstanding Service.

NORTH MOORE CATERING LTD THE RIVER ROOM CAFE & PRIVATE DINING

During Londonlicious (Jan.10-Feb 2) THE RHINO LOUNGE BAKERY | COFFEE SHOPPE

The River Room is open for

Regular LUNCH Hours and open for

www.northmoore.ca | www.theriverroom.ca

DINNER Thurs, Fri & Sat Nights 519.850.2287 River Room | 519.850.5111 NMC /Rhino Lounge


42 | January/February 2020

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

York Street. Smack dab in the middle of Wortley

Village, Wolfepack Company Bar is located next

door to the premises that now houses the popular

breakfast spot Little Bird. The Company Bar is

accessible, welcoming and convivial with inspired

cuisine that includes house-made charcuterie

and small batches of seasonal or artisanal items.

Quantities are limited to maintain a high level of

quality. The resto seats about 60 customers, and

will include two patios, one seating an additional

45 patrons with another additional 30 seats at the

100% Local — from Our Farmers to Your Table

Hormone & Drug-Free

Ontario Beef, Pork, Bison, Lamb & Chicken

THE VILLAGE

MEAT SHOP

LOCAL - NATURAL - QUALITY

WE ARE YOUR LONDON OUTLET FOR

• Metzger Meat Products • Lena’s Lamb

• Blanbrook Bison Farm • Little Sisters Chicken

• Glengyle Farm Organics

The Market at Western Fair District: SAT 8–3; SUN 10–2

226-376-6328 • www.thevillagemeatshop.ca

More than just a Coffee Shop!

Keto Sweets, Bagels,

Soup, Bulletproof Coffee

& Even Homemade

Keto Ice Cream!

front of the restaurant. The menu is reminiscent

of the best of the Wolfe of Wortley — but scaleddown.

We are long-time fans of Chef Kyle Rose’s

salumi underpinned by technique and skill and

lots of deep flavours and good fat content. There is

Coppa Cotta Carpaccio (salt-cured from the pig’s

neck) with truffle, cremini mushroom, arugula and

Manchego cheese. Other snacks include creamy

chicken liver mousse and chicken fried mushrooms

with hen of the woods (maitake), beer and Cheddar

dip. The more extensive menu includes other

house-made salumi items such as Lamb Prosciutto,

Bone Marrow and Sunchokes with honey-garlic

sunflower seeds and scallions. 145 Wortley Road,

226-663-4567. The Wolfe brothers are anticipating

the opening of Through Thick and Thin, an Old

South pizzeria, in February.

The organic and Mexican-inspired Ivanopoblano

Restaurant opened in November to rave reviews.

Specialties include quesadillas, huevos rancheros,

corn-bean tacos and grilled cheese sandwiches.

Ivan Santana-Barnes has been serving some of

London’s best organic Latin-inspired food for the

last four years from his food truck, and recently

opened the compact but charming Ivanopoblano

Restaurant at the corner of Wharncliffe and Emery

Street with his partner. 390 Wharncliffe Road, 226-

238-0868, ivanopoblano.com

Owners Ricardo Cavaco from Bifana Boys and

Chris Bunting from Goodah Gastrotruck are

opening Out of the Deep Seafood Co. at The Market

at Western Fair, featuring ethically-sourced and

sustainable fresh fish and seafood.

Petojo Food & Catering recently launched a new

virtual restaurant, Rasa Indonesia. Chef Anthony

Abdullah and co-founder Kimi Abdullah have

developed a menu featuring popular Javanese

and Balinese dishes. It includes traditional fare

PATIO

OPEN!

Gluten-free

Keto Charcuterie!

Private Event

Space

Our Famous Dill Pickle Soup

(All Soups Now Gluten-free!)

Keto Christmas Toffee Pecan Baking

Bars

Pour Over Coffee Bar Open 7 Days a Week

creambeanerycafe.com

New 2nd Location!

22469 Adelaide Rd, Mt Brydges

226-490-0301

825 Southdale Rd W, London

519-652-1607


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

found at street stalls and countryside “warungs,”

including nasi goreng (fried rice), mie goreng (fried

noodles), beef rendang, shrimp laksa, soto mie

bakso (meatball noodle soup) and lumpia (spring

roll). In keeping with the company’s inclusive

dining philosophy, the menu includes vegan and

gluten-free options. The Abdullahs have responded

with this online service to the popularity of their

offerings at their weekend booth at The Market

at Western Fair District. The menu is available

through online ordering and delivery platforms.

petojofood.com/rasa-delivery

Locomotive Espresso, a locally-owned espresso

bar, is expanding its five-year-old business with a

second location in the Old South neighbourhood.

Locomotive Espresso South will be brewing

espresso-based beverages using Mod Bar/La

Marzocco equipment, an under-counter system

with above counter taps. The modular formation

will create an open bar look, and its design offers

excellent interaction and engagement with

customers. Locomotive Espresso’s professionallytrained

baristas are excited to introduce the

latest in world-class coffees, brew methods, and

equipment to the London community. Locomotive

Espresso South forecasts its new location at 350

Ridout Street South will open in February.

Tina Roberts at InSpiirit represents some of

Niagara’s hottest small-batch wines, beers, and

ciders. She also provides curation services that

bring the best of Niagara food and wine together,

from menu pairing and planning, to catering and

event consulting. Growing up in Niagara-on-thelake

has given Tina such an appreciation for all

the region has to offer that having the opportunity

to share a taste of Niagara with her customers

is a dream come true. She moved to London as a

job recruiter but instead of matching people to

employers, she’s now matching craft beer, wine

and cider to restaurant menus, always with an eye

to lifting spirits and the bottom line. Whether you

are looking to up your bar game, or throw a unique

party experience, put her passion for all things

Niagara to work! inspiirit.ca

Lunch at The River Room at Museum London, with

Chef Jeff Fortner and his team features Pan Roasted

Salmon, miso-honey sauce, soba noodles, scallion,

julienned carrot and tomato. East Coast Lobster

Roll with celery, scallion, mayo and topsider bun

is a signature offering. House-cured Smoked Trout

with toasted naan, house crackers, crème fraiche

and accoutrements is a classic. Pastry Chef Michele

“a gastronomical landmark for over 23 years”

Booking NOW for

Valentine’s Day!

February 14

Bistro & Catering

Chef-driven Farm-to-Table Cuisine

Dietary Needs Accommodated

Ample Free Lunch Parking Mon–Fri

Available for Private Dinner Parties Mon–Sat

Gift Certificates Available

46 Blackfriars Street, London | 519-667-4930

blackfriarsbistro.com

Make HAPPINESS

a part of your day.


where art is

Hey, Cupcake! a piece of cake

The ORIGINAL

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GOURMET CUPCAKE

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ASK US Custom Bakery • Walk-In Orders Available

ABOUT OUR

“RANDOM

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CAMPAIGN

www.heycupcake.ca

1305 Riverbend Road, Suite 110

519-433-CAKE (2253)

STORE HOURS: Mon–Fri 11–7

Saturday 10–5 • Sunday 11–4

Traditional, Real Food.

Real Good!

Try our world famous Goulash Soup, Cabbage Rolls,

Schnitzel, Chicken Paprikash, a Combination Platter, or

many other mouthwatering Hungarian dishes.

Gift

Certificates

Available

519-652-9696

aranka.ca

aranka.csarda arankacsarda

7447 Longwoods Road, London

Our beautiful country setting is on Longwoods, the continuation of

Wharncliffe Road, just outside Lambeth

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

Lenhardt brings dessert offerings to a whole new

level at both the Rhino Lounge and the River Room.

Try the River Room’s signature Vanilla Bean Crème

Brûlée and the Rhino’s popular Cronut Thursdays.

There are over a dozen dishes on the Sunday

Brunch prix fixe menu ($28), including a classic

Cobb Salad with grilled chicken, bacon, blue cheese,

hard-boiled egg and chopped tomato & cucumbers.

Try the outstanding Maitake & Potato Skillet with

boudin blanc, leeks, zucchini, a fried egg and toast.

Museum London, 421 Ridout Street, 519-850-2287

theriverroom.ca

Forest City Experiences teaches you the history

of the founding of the Covent Garden Market and

points out some of the more interesting facts that

only a true insider will know. Enjoy the Covent

Garden Market and surrounding area with a wellknown

chef and a friendly culinary expert. Meet at

the Market Square entrance (across from Budweiser

Gardens) and you’ll have a personal introduction to

the Market’s culinary offerings and its passionate

vendors. Eat and drink from a minimum of five

unique spots, which may include an international

foods vendor, cheesemonger, butcher, artisanal

baker, small-batch coffee roaster or chocolatier.

By the end of this progressive tasting experience,

you’ll have sampled a series of offerings that add

up to an authentic expression of Covent Garden’s

culinary scene. This three-hour gastro experience

will end with a cooking class using seasonal and

locally-sourced ingredients, upstairs in the Market

Kitchen. We promise you’ll leave at the end of the

tour satiated and feeling like a local, having learned

about the culinary hot spots in and around the

Market. Available dates are January 4, January 17

and 24. forestcityculinaryexperiences.ca

Experiential Tourism is based on developing

experiences that allow visitors to use all their

senses and interact in a hands-on approach

within a region’s culture. An experiential tourism

destination provides opportunities for visitors

to make deeper connections to regional food

stories and become interactively immersed in the

local culture guided by knowledgeable insiders.

Recently, the third edition of “Unlocked and

Inspired” represented the first time this tourism

development training occurred in an urban setting.

With the help of Ontario’s Southwest and Tourism

London’s community team, a number of willing

and ready partners emerged, prepared to launch

new experiences to the marketplace in 2020.

These experience partners include a collaboration


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

of North Moore Catering, The River Room and

Rhino Lounge at Museum London, Growing Chefs!

Ontario, the London Clay Art Centre, and the Old

East Village BIA which partnered with multiple

community stakeholders.

As a result of “Unlocked and Inspired,” North Moore

Catering, The River Room and Rhino Lounge at

Museum London now offer private team building

and corporate culinary experiences for groups.

These experiences can be created on an individual

basis and tailored to meet the needs of each group,

be they team-building or pure entertainment.

All experiences are fully customizable and can

be adjusted to suit your group’s experience

and interests. The 3-hour, newly developed,

Gastronomy Meets Art: Hunger Games at the Forks

of the Thames experience features an art-themed,

mystery box cooking challenge and a scavenger

hunt through Museum London’s art collection.

The River Room and Rhino Lounge chefs design

a multi-course meal inspired by paintings in

Museum London’s art collection, highlighting local,

seasonal ingredients.

Wich is Wich has relocated to Wellington St., south

of Oxford (once Willie’s Café), serving the same

great food (global flavours, exotic ingredients,

and textural contrasts). Not just serving gourmet

sandwiches, it’s taking comfort food to a whole

new level. Chef Josh Sawyer calls it “home style.”

Locally sourced whenever possible, meals are

crafted from hearty artisan bread, slow-roasted

meats, garden-fresh vegetables, gourmet spreads

and sauces. Weekend brunch (served both days),

lunch, and dinner menus (Tuesday to Saturday) are

completely different. Pair dishes with great wines,

local beers and cocktails. Wich is Wich also offers

catering and grab-and-go. 731 Wellington St., 519-

860-9424, wichiswich.ca

January/February 2020 | 45

The London Clay Art Centre (LCAC) is the only

guild-owned and operated education centre

dedicated to the clay arts in Canada. It provides

high-quality programming, nurtures the

development of novice and professional clay

artists, collaborates with other community

organizations and encourages fellowship in an

inclusive and accessible facility in the Old East

Village. It is a supporter and advocate of Empty

Bowls, an annual fundraiser that supports food

banks, soup kitchens and other worthwhile

LUNCH Wed to Fri 11:30–2:30

DINNER from 5pm daily

432 Richmond Street

at Carling • London

ALWAYS

a 3-course prix fixe

menu option

www.davidsbistro.ca

Exciting NEW

Food Menu

Launching

January 17th!

Valentine’s

Afternoon Tea

February 9

(12:30 pm seating)

{

4 Weeks to Flourish

}

March 5–26 (4 Thursdays)

Reserve Your Spot!

268 Piccadilly Street (at Wellington)

519-601-TEAS (8327) • tealoungelondon.com

WED & THURS 11am-6pm • FRI & SAT 11am-9pm • SUN 12-5pm


46 | January/February 2020

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

initiatives to combat hunger and address food

insecurity. Each year, local clay artists make up to

700 unique bowls. Ticket buyers choose the bowl

to take home and enjoy a simple meal of soup and

bread donated by local restaurants. The proceeds

of Empty Bowls go to a worthy local organization

addressing food insecurity. LCAC has incorporated

the Empty Bowls initiative into its experience,

The Humble Lump. Go behind the scenes with a

hands-on and fully immersive experience that

includes trying your hand at slipping, joining and

SUNDAY BRUNCH

11am−2pm

Open 7 Days a Week

Mon/Tues 11:30-10, Wed/Thurs 11:30-11, Fri/Sat 11:30-12, Sun 11-10

carving your own bowl. This experience includes a

heart-warming lunch and an inspiriting community

narrative by enthusiastic, talented artists and

storytellers. londonclayartcentre.org

Food, Fire, Feast! A Healthy Diet Means a Healthy

Planet emphasizes food literacy as a tourism goal.

Food literacy means a person’s ability to correctly

read food labels and Canada’s Food Guide, and

the aptitude to comprehend essential nutrition

well enough to apply that knowledge to food

preparation. Food literacy includes understanding

how food is grown and produced, where it

originates, how production affects the environment,

and who has access to what types of foods. Based

on the idea that education can alter behaviour,

Growing Chefs! Ontario’s dedicated team and

passionate volunteers have made tremendous

strides by changing the way children and their

families perceive food. Growing Chefs is a social

enterprise, without peer in Ontario, delivering

innovative and impactful childhood learning

programming. The winning team at Growing Chefs!

creates a high energy atmosphere with several

prep and cooking stations for seasonal, hands-on

activities with ingredients both foraged and from

their teaching garden, guided by expert chefs.

The Spirit of Old East Village experience, crafted

by Jen Pastorius of the Old East Village BIA, will

offer surprises and mystery in a prohibition-themed

two-hour walking experience. This experience

allows participants to meet and interact with area

storytellers and partnered local enthusiasts while

visiting unexpected neighbourhood hot spots

and participate in hands-on activities. There is a

customizable component that can feature a unique

Old East Village dining experience. All of which

speaks to the power of collaboration, community

and excellent storytelling by locals.

garlicsoflondon.com

481 Richmond Street

519.432.4092

@garlicsoflondon


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

The Nigerian-inspired YaYa’s Kitchen offers a

monthly pop-up street-food experience at the

London Food Incubator. 630 Dundas Street,

319-3436, facebook.com/pages/category/

Local-Business/yayas-kitchen-London-

Ontario-367184394035958/

Donald and Nora Yuriaan’s charming Indonesianinspired

Dragonfly Bistro has changed hands.

The friendly new owners have turned the 14-seat

restaurant into a casual Viet-Thai takeaway serving

items such as Fresh Rolls, Mango Salad, Pkuet Pad

Thai and Thai Red Curry. 715 Richmond Street, 519-

858-8888, dragonflypadthai.ca

Chef Logan Withers, formerly of Abruzzi Ristorante

and Toronto’s acclaimed Canis, will be leading

the culinary team at Chef Dave Lamers and

Rob D’Amico’s eagerly anticipated new Taverna

13Thirtyone on Hyde Park Road. Lamers tells us

“Taverna” is expected to open early February 2020.

1331 Hyde Park Road, taverna1331.ca

Michelle Pierce-Hamilton announced an exciting

new collaboration with Chef Josh Sawyer that

brings a brand new menu to The Tea Lounge.

Launching January 17, the menu will boast creative

offerings such as soups, salads and sandwich

entrées — flavourful, delicious, whole food,

plant-based — with flare. The Tea Lounge will be

serving this new lunch menu daily and will expand

into weekend dinners. The Tea Lounge offers

100+ sommelier-selected teas, lattes and French

press coffee. Pierce-Hamilton continues to offer

an array of classes, events, private bookings and

experiences. 268 Piccadilly Street, 519-601-8327,

tealoungelondon.com

Score Pizza, a fast-casual pizza experience,

recently opened in beautifully refurbished

premises that formerly housed Kiss the Cook. The

pizzeria offers fresh, quality, customizable pizza

from a stone-fired oven in an open kitchen. There

are gluten-free offerings and a wide selection

of signature and seasonal toppings. Owner Joel

Burnstein tells us that the official Grand Opening

will commence the week of January 20. 551

Richmond St., 519-601-8327, scorepizza.ca

Stratford

The Slow Food Perth County Sunday Market

runs 10am–2pm indoors at downtown Festival

Marketplace Mall until May, when it moves to the

Market Square at City Hall. You’ll find local produce,

bread, soup, sweets, soap, healthy treats, crafty

Your love of all things Italian begins at

Gift Cards

Available

Bring back “homemade”

again with Marshall’s Pasta!

519-652-7659 • HWY 401 & 4 • pastosgrill.com

580 Adelaide St N, London

519-672-7827

Quality

Convenient

Meals

Healthy Food the Whole

Family Will Love!

We use

Enriched

Durum

Semolina Flour

for all our pastas.

3.5 grams of fibre per serving

Plus NO SUGAR ADDED to our sauces.

MON–FRI 9:30am–7pm • SAT 9:30am–5pm • SUN 11am–5pm

Full menu available at marshallspastacatering.ca


“Reasonably priced, fresh, well-executed

Ethiopian cuisine ...” — Bryan Lavery, Eatdrink

Gift

Certificates

Available

$5

16-oz Pints

Thursdays

Grand

Marnier

Trifle

Blair Blvd

London

International

Airport

• FAMILY FRIENDLY

• Vegetarian &

Vegan Options

• Takeout

• Catering

ADDIS ABABA Restaurant

Tuesday–Sunday 11am–10pm by reservation

Closed Monday

465 Dundas Street 519 433-4222

www.tgsaddisababarestaurant.com

Crumlin Rd

Far Out ...

but we like it that way!

519-455-9005

katanakafe.ca

2530 Blair Blvd, London

Diamond Flight Centre

MON & TUES: Lunch 11–3

WED, THURS & FRI: Lunch 11–5; Dinner 5–9

Weekends: Breakfast 9–12, Lunch 12–3, Dinner 5–9

Oxford St

Book Your

Valentine’s

Table Now!

½ Price

Bottle of Wine

Wednesdays

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

things, lacto-fermented foods, cheese, grass-fed

meats and garden seeds. slowfoodperthcounty.ca

Revival House menus offer modern Frenchstyle

cuisine that expresses the depth of Perth

County’s food culture. The chef-driven menus

reveal a passion for using house-made, local and

sustainable ingredients, showcasing the terroir and

the best of what Ontario has to offer. High Tea and

Sunday Brunch add yet another layer of temptation

to the offerings. 70 Brunswick Street, Stratford,

519-273-3424, revival.house

The Planet Diner, located across from the Avon

Theatre, is 1950’s Pop Diner meets Bettie Page with

local pop art and polka dot wallpaper. Owner Dee

Christensen says, “This is where herbivores can

bring their carnivore friends.” With candy-apple

red upholstered booths and classic 50s retro vibe,

the 26-seat diner is warm and welcoming with

enthusiastic and well-informed staff. Meat dishes

are labelled for the carnivore, and other than the

meat itself (or the eggs in the all-day breakfast),

everything on the menu is 100% plant-based. 118

Downie Street, 519-305-5888, theplanetdiner.com

Nosh Mondays at The Red Rabbit are a way of

celebrating each season, allowing each chef to let

their talent and creativity shine. It is also a culinary

adventure. Join them Mondays to April. Make your

reservations early. 64 Wellington Street, Stratford,

519-305-6464, redrabbitresto.com

Hamlet Hall Brew Co. is a heritage-inspired brewery

on Market Square in Stratford, incorporating local

ingredients from the surrounding agricultural

community. There is a welcoming, laid-back

ambience; you can sip your beer beside the huge

brewing vessels. Beer names are based on historical

Stratford and area people and events. Workerowned,

it is located in the recently renovated

historic Herald Building, a former printing

and newspaper office, and many Victorian-era

architectural details remain. Brewmaster Jeff

MacDonald’s favourite part of brewing is learning

the science behind beer making. Head Brewer Jon

Zippel’s strengths lie in recipe development and

technical brewing. The Taproom features expertly

poured pints, cans and growlers for purchase, and

an exclusive pub-style menu prepared by The Hub

kitchen team next door. They work with a variety

of local vendors and suppliers to incorporate the

freshest ingredients into seasonal menus that

are sure to please a variety of palates. There is

an innovative line of craft beers, accompanied


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

by delicious cocktails and wine designed to

complement the cuisine. 21 Market Place, 519-508-

1890, hamlethall.com

Want to learn Cooking Fundamentals and the trade

secrets of braising and stewing from the experts,

or how to improve your knife skills? Stratford

Chefs School Open Kitchen features a wide

variety of hands-on cooking classes and learning

opportunities for all home cooks and food lovers.

stratfordchef.com/open-kitchen

This winter Mercer Kitchen + Beer Hall + Hotel has

added some comforting menu items, while retaining

some tried and true signatures. The casual

brasserie-style ambience is inspired by the concept

of izakaya — informal Japanese beer pubs. There

are 15 draft lines and over 120 bottles, including

international award-winners and hard-to-find

one-offs. Menus showcase items meant to be shared

communally that are perfect for the lively, dynamic

atmosphere.104-108 Ontario Street, 519-271-9202,

mercerhall.ca

Around the Region

Feast ON-certified SixThirtyNine in Woodstock is an

elegant and contemporary dining room of 30 seats.

It welcomes guests to a tasteful and comfortable

atmosphere. Front house service is headed by Chef

Eric Boyar’s wife, Jennifer Boyar, and the emphasis

is on unpretentious yet attentive and professional

service. Zach Lebert directs the restaurant wine

program, which features both high quality regional

VQA wines and unique international wines. Wine

selections change regularly to suit the menu.

Additional seating is available for up to four

guests at the Chef’s Table, providing guests with

an up-close look at the talented kitchen crew in

action. Service is often headed by Sous Chef Sam

Vandenberg, who ensures guests at the Chef’s

Table have an engaging and memorable experience.

639 Peel Street, Woodstock, 519-536-9602,

sixthirtynine.com

Early Bird Coffee is a small-batch, wholesale

coffee Roastery and café situated close to where

the 401 and 403 meet in Woodstock, Ontario. It was

established in 2018 by master roaster Elio Caporicci

and his hospitable wife, Kate Caporicci. Their

mission is simple: “To provide a world-class coffee

experience by delivering the freshest, best-tasting

small-batch coffee in the region.” They achieve this

by using only ethically-sourced, premium beans,

expertly roasted in Woodstock. The rustic, 1,200

square foot Roastery has three areas: the Roastery/

FINE FOOD FOR FINE PEOPLE

Book

Now for

Valentine’s Day!

PRIVATE DINING ROOM AVAILABLE

Booking Now for Valentine’s Day

G R A C E R E S T A U R A N T

farm-to-table fine dining downtown

OPEN for LONDONLICIOUS Jan 10 – Feb 2

.COM


eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

BISTRO • CONFERENCE • SUITES • SPA

519-565-2576

LakeHouseofBayfield.com

Open for

Valentine’s

Day

Celebrations!

February 14 & 15

Always Available

for Caterings!

Closed for the Season.

Reopening in March!

Reservations Recommended.

519.238.6224

42 Ontario St. S., Grand Bend

www.finearestaurant.com

Coffee Lab, Café and a small retail space. Sit at

one of the comfortable chairs and tables, or at the

hand-built herringbone bar top, and revel in the

welcoming ambience. There is a gold-tempered

espresso machine for coffee-based specialty drinks

such as lattes, cappuccinos, cortados and seasonal

beverages. 815 Juliana Drive, Woodstock, 519-532-

3127 earlybirdcoffee.ca

James Eddington of the Feast ON-certified,

Eddington’s of Exeter is known for his

contemporary casual fine cooking with a rustic

charm. Eddington’s favourite seasonal ingredients

are those that are at their peak of freshness —

fresh off of the vine, picked from the tree, foraged

from the forest or dug up from the earth. The

yellow brick Italianate-style mansion on Main

Street stands out with its decorative bracket eaves,

large bay windows and well-manicured lawn with

mature maple trees. Eddington’s occupies the

original Carling homestead (built in the 1870s), a

designated historic landmark. There are twelvefoot

ceilings both upstairs and down, well-spaced

tables with lots of elbow room, and warm tones

with a contemporary ambience bordering on

elegant. 527 Main Street, Exeter, 519-235-3030,

eddingtons.ca

The culinary team at The Chilled Cork in Chatham

offers a modern take on classic cuisine, using the

freshest ingredients Southwestern Ontario has to

offer and pairing them with exceptional quality

steak, and seafood from around the globe. Whether

you are looking for an intimate dinner for two, a

casual business lunch, or a glass of wine at the

end of the day, be prepared to relax and allow the

attentive and friendly staff to take care of you.

The bar offers draft beer, frozen cocktails, loaded

Caesars and the best variety of scotch, spirits,

wines and local craft beer. The restaurant is nestled

within the Retro Suites Hotel’s century-old building

on Chatham’s “retro block.” 22 William Street

South, Chatham, 519-354-7818, chilledcork.ca

Mamma Maria’s Ristorante is family-owned

and operated, and is considered by many to be

Chatham-Kent’s best Italian dining experience.

Specializing in traditional Italian regionallyinspired

food served in a relaxed and inviting

atmosphere, this attractive venue offers a warm and

hospitable respite. The dining room and bar feature

warm interlocking stone tiles, red brick and stucco

walls with murals and frescos, eclectic lighting

fixtures and overhead fans. Tucked in the back is

a stunning private dining area perfect for special


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

events, celebrations and parties. There is a wide

variety of classic pizzas, bruschetta, kinds of pasta

and risottos. The from-scratch kitchen is purist

about its ingredients but not afraid to break Italian

food rules, sometimes infusing more localized

ingredients. 231 King St W, Chatham, 519-360-1600,

mammamariasristorante.ca

Wolfhead Distillery is leading the pack as the

first premium craft distillery in Essex County

since prohibition. Owners Tom and Sue Manherz,

with Larry Girard, found themselves inspired by

the local history of rum-running and prohibition

after establishing a third-party bottling operation

for companies looking to produce small-batch

specialty spirit lines. That inspiration soon

developed into building a premium craft distillery.

Along with making premium spirits, Wolfhead

features a restaurant and bar. Guests enjoy infused

creative offerings as well as premium beverages

while getting a glimpse into the world of distilling.

Guided tours offer an in-depth explanation of

the distilling process, and spirits enthusiasts can

look forward to the full Wolfhead experience.

drinkwolfhead.com

The Village Teapot, owned and operated by Gaynor

Deeks and Jana Yassine, is a delightful tea room

in the heart of Ilderton. It is located in one of the

oldest properties in the town, believed to be at

least 145 years old, which retains many of its period

features. Special Sunday Roast dates are January

26 for Roast Ham and February 23 for Roast Beef.

There will be a special Valentine’s Day Afternoon

Tea on February 15. Reservations will be required.

It will be a festive afternoon to come together and

enjoy savoury and sweet delights served on threetiered

platters. 13257 Ilderton Road, Ilderton, 519-

298-8327, thevillageteapot.ca

The Benmiller Inn, nestled in the hamlet of

Benmiller on the Maitland River, is an ideal setting

for an Ontario weekend getaway, a romantic

retreat, or a few restful days away from the city. The

lovingly-restored 19th-century woollen and grist

mill is secluded and peaceful, yet provides every

modern convenience. Recreational opportunities

range from the pure pleasure of a stroll through

unspoiled countryside to fishing in the autumn

and cross-country skiing in the winter. The

Benmiller is just minutes from theatre, shopping,

golf courses, and Lake Huron. Executive Chef Tim

Goddard and his culinary team create food that is

fresh and exciting while still offering the comfort

of a home-cooked meal. Committed to providing

See Facebook for Weekly Specials!

Lunch Hours Available for Private Events

Locally Sourced Ingredients

Authentic Italian Cuisine

Local Craft Beers

Regional & Organic Wines from Italy

Valentine’s Day Prix Fixe Menu!

Reserve NOW!

Take Out & Gift Certificates Available

Tuesday–Thursday 4pm–8pm

Friday & Saturday 11:30am–10pm

Sunday Brunch 11am–2pm, Dinner 3pm–7pm

Reservations Recommended

2135 Dorchester Road, Dorchester

519-268-0001

fatolive.ca


Come Experience Our World!

Award Winning Artisan Cheese

NOW OFFERING! Affinage 101

A hands-on behind-the-scenes experience

• Visit the aging room where cheese is cured

• Taste the changes in flavour as the cheese cures

• Discover steps to judge cheese quality and taste

• Create a delicious Gunn’s Hill fondue from scratch

• Find details and register on our website

445172 Gunn's Hill Rd, Woodstock, ON

519-424-4024

www.gunnshillcheese.ca


Celebrating Local Chefs

& Entrepreneurs!



peppertreespice.com/classes


http://www.peppertreespice.com

223 Colborne Street, Port Stanley, Open Daily

The Market at Western Fair, London, Sat & Sun

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

an exceptional dining experience, the culinary

team uses fresh, local ingredients to prepare

in-house soups, sauces, dressing and desserts. To

complement the natural setting of The Benmiller,

brunch at the Inn is a seasonally changing affair

drawing inspiration from the world-class farms in

Huron County and the availability of their bounty.

81175 Benmiller Line, RR 4 Goderich, benmiller.ca

Kyle Blandford, Craig Brodie, Mike Barker and

Matt Whitney, four hobbyists-turned-businessmen,

have turned the old XS Cargo building in Sarnia’s

east end into Imperial City Brew House, an openconcept

craft beer destination with a brewery

and a taproom with 220-person capacity. The

four co-owners spent years home-brewing from

their basements, garages, and occasionally over

a backyard fire pit. They pay homage to Sarnia’s

history with the names of t heir beer and the

industrial-feel of the brewery, while crafting a

wide variety of fun niche products. The cityscape

featured in the Imperial City logo highlights some

of the landmarks that shape Sarnia, and the droplet

crown represents both Sarnia’s rich history and

their craft standing out above the rest. The primary

focus is to be a community meeting and retail

space. They want people to have an interactive

experience in the brewery. 1330 Exmouth Street,

Sarnia, imperialcitybrew.com.

Kitchener’s newest Afternoon Tea venue is now

open. Queen of Hearts Coffee & Tea House offers

a laid back atmosphere to enjoy an afternoon

tea experience or light lunch. Over 20 different

beverages — from espresso and loose leaf tea

to many types of lattes — are on offer, along

with fresh baking, meat pies and sandwiches.

Reservations required. Special events include:

Keto & Gluten-Free High Tea on January 24 & 25;

Valentine’s High Tea & Live Music on February 14;

and Leap Year Afternoon Tea & Tarot Readings on

February 29. 1151 Victoria St. N., Kitchener, 226-

647-8969, QueenOfHeartsKitchener.com

We want your BUZZ!

Do you have culinary news or upcoming events

that you’d like us to share?

Every issue, Eatdrink reaches more than

50,000 readers across Southwestern Ontario

in print, and thousands more online.

Get in touch with us at editor@eatdrink.ca

Submission deadline for the next issue: February 5


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

January/February 2020 | 53

Theatre

Make Room on Your Calendar

The North American Premiere of Room

By JANE ANTONIAK

London audiences will be the first

in North America to experience

the stage adaptation of Room, the

runaway international bestselling

novel and Academy-Award-nominated

film, when the play opens at the

Grand Theatre in March 2020.

That the North American stage

premiere should be held here is a tip

of the hat to her adopted city by the

novelist, Emma Donoghue. She lives

in London and wrote the book here, as

she puts it, in a variety of coffee shops

and recreational facilities while being

a busy working mom. She lists her

writing locations like a Trip Advisor rating of

where to best to snag a free table in the city:

“The Little Red Roaster on Wortley, Covent

Garden Market, the YMCA lobby, the Fred

Landon branch library, the Weldon Library

and the tennis bubble at Western, Forest City

Gymnastics, Earl Nichols skating arena, and

various park benches and parking lots,” she

admits with candor.

Interestingly, another London mom is the

inspiration for the actor playing the aptly

named lead role of Ma. Alexis Gordon, a

London born and raised actor with Grand,

Stratford and Shaw credits, says that she

credits her own mother for their shared deep

connection with Room, the novel.

“My mom had given me the book to read

Emma

Donoghue

as soon as it came out in 2010, excited that

Emma [Donoghue] lived in London. Both my

mom and I read it quickly. We both cried while

reading it, and loved it. So when I told my mom

I was auditioning she was very excited. It felt

very personal for me to get the role of Ma, since

it was such a shared experience for my mom

and I just under a decade ago,” says Gordon.

Room has three iterations: book, film, and

play. Donoghue says, in simple terms, the

book is the most psychological, the film is the

most realistic, the play is the most dramatic.

The world premiere of Room was co-produced

by the Abbey Theatre in Dublin (Donoghue’s

hometown) and Theatre Royal Stratford East,

in 2017. It was directed by Cora Bissett, who

will also direct the Canadian production.

Donoghue says, “It’s pretty much the same play

we produced in England, Scotland and Ireland

in 2017, but we’re enjoying the opportunity to

workshop it to improve anything we weren’t a

hundred percent happy with, and I’ve adapted

the language to a Canadian setting.” After the

Grand run, the play moves to Toronto with

Mirvish Productions.

Room is the dark tale of Ma, who was

kidnapped and held captive as a teenager. She

endures sexual violence and gives birth to her

son, who is raised in captivity. The pair survive

together for years in the room. Donoghue

says the dramatic story is perfectly suited for

the stage. “I focused on the very theatrical

premise at the heart of Room: two people in a


54 | January/February 2020

Grand TheaTre, CovenT eatdrink.ca Garden |@eatdrinkmag

ProduCTions,

and david Mirvish PresenT:

ROOM

Based on the Novel by Emma Donoghue

march 10 to 28 Spriet Stage

SE A SON

SPONSOR

TIT LE

SPONSOR

grandtheatre.com box office 519.672.8800


An Udderly Entertaining

2020 Summer

Theatre Season!

20

20

SUMMER

THEATRE

SEASON

Season Subscriptions,

Single Tickets & Gift Certificates

Available Now.

Reserve Tickets 519-782-4353

www.psft.ca

PortStanley

FestivalTheatre

6-302 Bridge Street, Port Stanley

limited space, with limited resources, making

things up — giving meaning to their time,

creating ritual and fun out of blankness. What

Ma and Jack do is turn their imprisonment

into theatre, casting themselves as heroes

rather than victims,” she says. Creating the

character has given Donoghue time to reflect

on her own parenting. While some may think

of Room as a tragic tale, Donoghue found it

inspiring. “Sometimes I feel I’m not much of

a mother compared with Ma, though — it’s

hard to live up to her!”

Some may be surprised to learn that the

play has a musical element. Donoghue and

Gordon say that music is a way for the actors

to release intense emotions. “There won’t

be big musical numbers with dancing,” says

Gordon. “It’s more an elevation of emotion

— when words aren’t enough to express how

you’re feeling, you sing. I’m looking forward

to working with Cora Bissett (the director

who also wrote the music with Kathryn

Joseph) and exploring that!” Donoghue

says the singing will allow the role of Ma to

“release all the things she has to hide from

Jack and somehow to push emotion to a new

level of intensity.” Donoghue was involved

in discussions about where the songs would

be placed and what they would do for the

storyline. She says, “There’s a sort of rule for

theatre that involves music — say it or sing it,

not both — so we had to make sure the songs

would help tell the story rather than just

fleshing it out.”

Gordon is a talented singer with a string of

musical theatre productions including Guys

and Dolls, The Sound of Music and Carousel at

Stratford; Brigadoon at Shaw; Christmas Carol

and Mary Poppins at the Grand. Room will take

her to a darker stage, albeit still with singing.

“I believe they’re calling Room a play with

music. It is a bit of a different structure than

your straightforward musical theatre piece,”

says Gordon.

Gordon says she is excited and challenged

to follow in the footsteps of some famous

actors who have taken on the role of Ma,

including Brie Larson, who won an Academy

Award for her portrayal. Gordon is set to bring

her own vision of the role, based on research

and experiences, to create a new Ma.

“Sort of in a similar way, I’ve played a

handful of roles in classic musical theatre that

have a great following, based on their famous

movie version and audiences growing up with

them (Guys & Dolls, Carousel, Brigadoon, etc.).


56 | January/February 2020

I try not to base my own performances or

portrayals on the movies, because I can’t be

those actresses and do what they did. It has to

be genuine and come from me to translate the

role best,” says Gordon.

Room runs from March 13, 2020 (previews

begin March 10) until March 28. It is not

recommended for young children. It will

then run April 4 to 26 at the CAA Theatre in

Toronto, with the same cast.

A special event for book clubs will be held

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

at the Grand Theatre with Emma Donoghue

on February 10, 6:30–9 pm. She will discuss

her novel Room as well as the upcoming play

with lead actor Alexis Gordon. Watch the

Grand website (grandtheatre.com) for more

details.

JANE ANTONIAK is a regular contributor to Eatdrink.

She is also Manager, Communications & Media Relations,

at King’s University College in London.

Books

Hungry

Eating, Road-tripping and Risking it All

with the Greatest Chef in the World

By Jeff Gordinier

Review by DARIN COOK

Even as a food writer for Esquire, Jeff

Gordinier found himself hungry for

something more. Enter René Redzepi,

the innovative chef behind Noma

in Copenhagen, which has held the number

one spot on the World’s Best Restaurant list

four times since 2010, and which has possibly

had more of an impact on the world than any

other restaurant in history. Reluctant at first,

Gordinier was asked to tag along with Redzepi

in search of flavours around the world. It

turned out to be just what the author needed,

to fill a void and find the creative inspiration

to write Hungry: Eating, Road-tripping and

Risking it All with the Greatest Chef in the World

(Tim Duggan Books, 2019).

The book shines a spotlight

on Redzepi — his is not

a household name compared

to the televised onslaught of

celebrity chefs, but in culinary

circles he is a pioneering

legend. He is the epitome

of the over-achieving perfectionist

working diligently

to keep himself on top of

his game. By scouring the

globe, he has accumulated

an encyclopedic

knowledge of

foods that

most people

have never

heard of. His

appetite for

memorable

dining experiences,

for

flavours no

one has tasted before,

and for meal concepts no one has even

considered is insatiable, and his name will forever

be linked to the ground-breaking cuisine

known as New Nordic that

focuses on ingredients from

the farms, wilderness, and

seas of Denmark.

As a food writer,

Gordinier knew plenty

of chefs, but influential

individuals known for

working wonders with

Mexican, Korean, and

Chinese food gravitated to

Author Jeff Gordinier


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

Author Jeff Gordinier (left) and Chef René Redzepi from

Copenhagen’s renowned restaurant Noma

Redzepi throughout their travels. Before his

fortuitous meeting with Redzepi, the author’s

gloominess about life hinged on a failing

marriage, but with chefs with the status of

rock stars surrounding him, with the globe as

their playground, he became intoxicated with

shadowing Redzepi.

With nine trips to Mexico alone over the

course of four years, the author witnessed

the chef’s attempts to elevate mole beyond

its regional status, never in a way to replicate

the sauce, but maybe change it in ways to

radiate from the Noma ethos. The same

went for tortillas. Sure, Redzepi could make

them, although he sensed his limitations

by never making them the same as the old

women in Mexican villages. He can seemingly

make a meal out of anything, but perfect

tortillas stumped him. All the more reason to

obsessively visit Mexico to watch the Mayan

women who could do it with such ease.

A meal at Noma was a ticket Gordinier

would have gladly taken at any point in his

career, but his first meal there happened

just before Redzepi decided to shutter his

restaurant. The meal itself sounded as if it

were conjured by wizardry, with combinations

that only made sense in Redzepi’s mind —

pumpkin and caviar, shrimp and radish, sea

urchin and hazelnuts. Gordinier attributed

Noma’s closure to the chef being restless,

looking to move on, aspiring to something

beyond that which had already been

considered the best in the world. Reinventing

is something that seems to come easily to

the chef. Gordinier is informed that Noma

2.0 will be resurrected in a new location

in Copenhagen in the future, but until

then Noma pop-ups were given temporary

residency in Japan, Australia, and Mexico.

The pop-up operations did not always

run smoothly, but financial and logistical

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impediments were no match for the chef’s

obsession to prove that being hungry for new

ideas can lead to revelations.

As readers, we are lucky that Gordinier

got caught up in Redzepi’s orbit, to chronicle

a rare glimpse into culinary ingenuity.

Gordinier’s writing is brilliant and vibrant and

intriguing: he is immersed in the glistening,

bubbling, aromatic cornucopia of Oaxaca

marketplaces; he finds himself harvesting

wild edibles in the Australian wilderness with

Noma-trained foragers; he raises an eyebrow

at the strangeness of New Nordic dishes with

ingredients like moss, fermented crickets, sea

buckthorn, pig’s blood, and kelp, until realizing

they are indeed the best food imaginable.

The book generally acts as a biography

of Redzepi, but it is just as much about

Gordinier’s rise from despair. Hungry is not

only about satisfying food cravings, but

following those other feelings that squirm in

the pit of your stomach and drive you to shake

up your life when it’s most needed.

DARIN COOK is a freelance writer based in Chatham

who keeps himself well-read and well-fed by visiting the

bookstores and restaurants in London.


58 | January/February 2020

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

Recipes

Fermentation Revolution

70 Easy, Healthy Recipes for Sauerkraut, Kombucha, Kimchi and More

By David Côté and Sébastien Bureau

Review and Recipe Selections by TRACY TURLIN

I

spend a lot of time reading about food.

Where and how it’s prepared, who cooks

it and why they make it the way they do.

Every once in a while I find a book that

changes the way I see food. These are the gems

I look for.

One such book is Fermentation Revolution;

70 Easy, Healthy Recipes for Sauerkraut,

Kombucha, Kimchi and More. It’s written

by Sébastien Bureau and David Côté, two

men who have spent their working lives

pursuing something a little different in the

food industry. Bureau is a food scientist

with a background in plant and molecular

biology. He’s the founder and president

of MannaNova, a consulting company

specializing in the production of natural,

fermented beverages and food. Côté is an

entrepreneur in the field of living food. He

co-founded RISE Kombucha, the raw food

restaurant Crudessence, and LOOP, a circular

economy business that produces juice from

imperfect produce recovered from the

grocery industry.

I thought I knew a fair bit about

fermenting food and beverages. I’ve made

pickles,

bread, cheese

and yogurt

at home. My

husband has

been making

his own beer

and keeping us

both supplied

with wine for

years. When I

came across

Fermentation

Revolution,

I thought

I might

find a few

variations

on recipes

I already

knew. I

didn’t

think I would

find a whole new understanding

of living food.

Bureau and Côté take us boldly through the

process of fermentation. They discuss safety

precautions, and the difference between

fermenting food and just plain “bad” food

in a way that makes perfect sense. This can

be hard to get your head around if you come

from a society that sanitizes its hands before

cleaning the house. What this book does best

is demystify the world of microorganisms that

are in, on and around us all the time.

If you are a nerd like me, you may also be

amused by the idea that the first fermented

food and beverages were almost certainly made

by accident. I do

wonder who was the

first to look at the

primordial soup that

is a bowl of soggy

grain fermented into

beer and thought,

Authors David Côté

(far left) and Sébastien

Bureau


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

“Yeah, I should drink this.” Bless their heart.

Many recipes in Fermentation Revolution can

be made with readily available ingredients.

Baker’s yeast, yogurt and sauerkraut are found

in any supermarket and probably in most

of our fridges already. Kombucha, kefir and

sake require specialized cultures to get them

started. These are available on the authors’

website, revolutionfermentation.ca. A quick

January/February 2020 | 59

search for fermenting supplies in our region

will also turn up a surprising number of local

resources.

There are many potential benefits to fermenting

food. You may be looking for health

benefits or to extend the life of food items.

You might try it just for the fun of learning

something new. Homemade Cheese Spread is

Continued next page ...

Homemade Cheese Spread

No cheese is easier to master. You’ll regret that it

took you so long to try your hand at making it!

Preparation Time: 10 minutes

Fermentation Time: 8 hours

EQUIPMENT

16-cup (4 L) pot, thermometer, dehydrator or

oven, strainer, cheesecloth, 2 plates, airtight

container

16 cups (4 L) whole milk, unhomogenized if

possible

1 packet cheese or yogurt starter

culture or 2 tbsp (30 mL) fresh

cheese or yogurt

¼ rennet tablet (sometimes life

is complicated)

3 tsp (15 g) sea salt, or to taste

1 In the large pot, heat milk over

medium heat to 95°F to 104°F (35°C

to 40°C).

2 Add starter culture, then rennet. Mix

together. Cover and let stand for 4

hours, without stirring.

3 Place covered pot in dehydrator or

another incubator (for example, the

oven of an electric range, with heat

off but oven light on) at 90°F to 104°F

(32°C to 40°C). Let ferment for 4

hours. The milk should be solidified

and the unmistakable aroma of

cheese should be apparent. To check,

scoop up a spoonful; the curd should

maintain its shape on the spoon.

4 Using a knife, cut solidified curd

into cubes, like a chessboard. Let

stand for 15 minutes. Stir very gently

without breaking pieces, then let

stand for another 15 minutes.

5 Transfer cheese to a strainer lined

with cheesecloth and let whey drain

off for 30 minutes. Add salt to taste,

stirring to blend.

6 Make a knot in cheesecloth to form a bundle. Press

down a little with your hands to release whey.

7 Transfer bundle to a plate and lay another plate on top

as a weight. Refrigerate for 3 hours.

8 Transfer solids to an airtight container and mix until

texture is uniform.

9 Spread generously on one (or several) wood ovenbaked

Montreal bagels.

Keeps for 2 weeks in the refrigerator.


60 | January/February 2020

Continued from previous page ...

one recipe that is easy enough for anyone to

make but has enough steps to make you feel

you’ve accomplished something really cool.

Don’t be put off by people who will inevitably

ask you why you don’t just save time and buy

cream cheese spread. The difference in taste

and texture is worth every minute you put

into it.

Vinified Fruits in Beeswax might not be

something you’ll make every week but you

have to admit, it looks very impressive. I

imagine it hanging from the beams of my

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

imaginary country cottage, somewhere

between the bundles of drying herbs and the

copper pots.

Whether you see food fermentation

as traditional or trendy, it is a weird and

wonderful journey through the world of

kitchen chemistry..

TRACY TURLIN is a freelance writer and dog groomer

in London. Reach her at tracyturlin@gmail.com

Photo credit for images : Mathieu Dupuis

Courtesy of Fermentation Revolution: 70 Easy Recipes for Sauerkraut, Kombucha, Kimchi and More

by Sébastien Bureau & David Côté © 2017 www.robertrose.ca. Available where books are sold.

Vinified Fruits in Beeswax

Here is one of the book’s signature recipes that

is guaranteed to impress! (We give you the right

to usurp our intellectual property and say you

thought of it yourself.)

There are two versions of this recipe: one

with added yeast and the other using wild

yeast already present on the fruit. Both recipes

yield good results, but adding yeast speeds up

the process and placates the

impatient.

In case of spills, use boiling

water to remove the beeswax. To

avoid this unpleasant task and

the animated discussion that

will ensue with your roommate

or significant other, it’s best to

cover your work surfaces with

newspaper.

Type of Fermentation: Alcoholic

Preparation Time: 1 to 2 hours

Fermentation Time: 2 days to 3

weeks, depending on whether

yeast is added

EQUIPMENT

Scale, small bowl and toothpicks

(if using yeast), small deep

saucepan, foil, clothespins,

safety pins, thick cord or

cheesecloth to hang fruit,

pillowcase (if necessary)

Champagne or bread yeast

(optional)

3 tbsp + 1 tsp (50 mL) warm water

(if using yeast)

10 to 15 ripe fruits with stem,

depending on size (plums,

apricots, figs, kiwis, cherries or

other soft fruits with a skin)

18 oz (500 g) beeswax


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

January/February 2020 | 61

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Savour white & dark balsamic vinegars from Modena, Italy,

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1 Optional: If using yeast, mix it with warm water in

a small bowl. To start the yeast, dip a toothpick in

yeast mixture, then insert toothpick a few millimeters

into the fruit. Repeat procedure two or three times in

different places on each fruit.

2 Line interior of small saucepan with foil. Place wax in

foil in saucepan and melt over low heat just until fluid,

without heating it too

much. (Smoking wax

can kill the yeasts on

the skin of the fruit.)

3 Working with one

piece of fruit at a time,

place a clothespin

on the stem.

Holding fruit by the

clothespin, dip fruit

in beeswax. Let set

for a few seconds,

then dip again, five

to seven times, until

fruit is completely

coated in wax. Remove clothespin

and fasten safety pin to stem. Pin fruit to a cord or

hanging cheesecloth. Repeat with the remaining fruits.

4 In winter, the fruits can ferment as is, in the air, without

much risk of a fruit fly invasion. In summer, all fruits

need to be protected by a pillowcase or another type of

shelter to keep insects away.

5 The fruits will ferment inside the wax. Deprived

of oxygen, they will not grow mold and will turn

effervescent. Once the wax cracks or juice brims over

the base of the stem — after 2 or 3 days for fruits with

yeast added or 2 to 3 weeks for fruits without added

yeast — the fruits are ready to eat. Not all the fruits

will be ready at the same time. You can look forward to

a daily harvest!

6 Cut in half and served with chocolate shavings, vinified

fruits can be eaten like oysters! An exotic treat for

a romantic evening for two or to share with your

adventurous friends.

If you want to eat all the fruit at the same time (for

example, on a special occasion), store the fermented fruits

in their wax shells in the fridge for a few days, until all of

them are ready.

TIP

If your fruit doesn’t have a strong stem, wrap a string

around the fruit to hold it and to pin it up. Dental floss

seems to do the trick.


62 | January/February 2020

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

The Lighter Side

Super Bowl and Stout

I

think the last time I watched a full

football game was back in high school

— more years ago than I care to admit. I

realized I would have to brush up on my

game when I got — and gleefully accepted —

a personal invite to a Super Bowl LIII Party at

the Mill Street Brewery in Ottawa. Clearly I

would have to brush up

on my Roman numerals

as well (in case you’re

also a tad rusty, it was

Super Bowl 53).

Way back when, as

a teenager and proud

cheerleader for the Sir

James Dunn Eagles, I

had learned the rules

for all high school

sports. No need to

embarrass yourself

screaming “push ’em

back, push ’em back,

waaaay back!” when

your team is on the

offense. Or shaking

your pom-poms when the opposing team is

lining up to kick a field goal. But … I have to

admit … other than knowing the name Tom

Brady (even non-football fans recognize that

guy! Do I get bonus points for knowing he’s

a quarterback?) and having a rudimentary

understanding of the historic roots of the

team name, I knew nothing about the New

England Patriots. Or the Los Angeles Rams for

that matter.

I’ll admit my “Absolutely love to attend!”

RSVP was mostly motivated by thoughts

of hanging out with some of my favourite

people in the world, sipping some Mill Street

seasonals, and enjoying the ambience of the

old stone building that sits on the bank of the

Ottawa River. But this was a once-a-year big

deal in the sports world, so I felt compelled to

do my homework. In less time than it takes

to snap the ball, I had learned that Jared Goff

was the Los Angeles Ram’s quarterback. And

that some fans were lining up to support his

By KYM WOLFE

team simply because they didn’t want to see

Brady win. Again. Having lived with sports

fans I knew the game would be far more

interesting if I at least pretended to have a

cheering interest, and since I tend to root for

the underdog, the Rams it would be.

As we arrived that afternoon the snow

was starting to swirl,

adding to the charm of

the beautiful old grist

mill building. As I took

in the picturesque

winter scene,

appreciating the clean

lines of the classic

Victorian industrial

architecture, it

occurred to me that

it was a style you

might run across in

New England. I’m not

usually superstitious,

but I did wonder if

that was an omen.

Had I picked the

wrong team to cheer for?

Once the game started I did follow the play,

and managed to cheer and boo at the right

times. But I have to admit, the best cheering

I did all night was when I raised my glass to

toast our hosts. Maybe … if I’d tried a little

harder … the Rams could have completed that

pass. Or at least made the game a little more

exciting. The Patriots literally ran away with

the ball … and the game.

But what the heck. I had a mug full of

Vanilla Porter and some amazing food. I had

access to a few specialty beers that are only

served in the Ottawa brewpub. I was sitting

in a charming historic building surrounded by

family and friends. For me, a Super Bowl party

— or any party — doesn’t get much better

than that!

KYM WOLFE is freelance writer based in London.


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