Eatdrink #81 January/February 2020

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario since 2007

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario since 2007


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Issue <strong>#81</strong> | <strong>January</strong>/<strong>February</strong> <strong>2020</strong><br />

eatdrink<br />

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Ex<br />

Celebrating Time-Honoured Bonds<br />

Happiness Café<br />

Budapest Restaurant<br />

Unique Food Attitudes<br />

Aranka Csárda<br />

Marienbad Restaurant<br />

Central & Eastern European<br />

Cuisine in London<br />

Profiles<br />

of Excellence<br />

Cowbell Brewing Co.<br />

Dairy Distillery<br />

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>’s London Wine & Food Show<br />

Page 29<br />


Expand Your Beer Palate<br />

Recommendations Outside the<br />

Average Comfort Zone<br />

Can You Drive to Italy?<br />

Eataly Toronto Is Now Open<br />

Local Reds to Warm You Up<br />

Baby, It’s Cold Outside<br />

Serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario since 2007<br />


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eatdrink<br />

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<br />

eatdrinkmagazine<br />

@eatdrinkmag<br />

eatdrinkmag<br />

eatdrink.ca<br />

Think Global. Read Local.<br />

Publisher<br />

Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca<br />

Managing Editor Cecilia Buy – cbuy@eatdrink.ca<br />

Food Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca<br />

Copy Editor Kym Wolfe<br />

Social Media Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca<br />

Advertising Sales Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca<br />

Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca<br />

Stacey McDonald – stacey@eatdrink.ca<br />

Terry-Lynn “TL” Sim – TL@eatdrink.ca<br />

Finances<br />

Ann Cormier – finance@eatdrink.ca<br />

Graphics<br />

Chris McDonell, Cecilia Buy<br />

Writers<br />

Jane Antoniak, Darin Cook,<br />

Gary Killops, Bryan Lavery,<br />

George Macke, Tracy Turlin,<br />

Kym Wolfe<br />

Photographers Steve Grimes, Nick Lavery<br />

Telephone & Fax 519-434-8349<br />

Mailing Address 525 Huron Street, London ON N5Y 4J6<br />

Website<br />

City Media, Cecilia Buy<br />

Social Media Mind Your Own Business<br />

Printing<br />

Sportswood Printing<br />


These exquisite heartshaped<br />

Entremets from<br />

Happiness Café are a<br />

delicious reminder that<br />

Valentine’s Day is fast<br />

approaching. Read about<br />

Happiness and other<br />

Central and East European<br />

restaurants in London on<br />

page 12.<br />

© <strong>2020</strong> <strong>Eatdrink</strong> Inc. and the writers.<br />

All rights reserved.<br />

Reproduction or duplication of any material published in <strong>Eatdrink</strong><br />

or on <strong>Eatdrink</strong>.ca is strictly prohibited without the written<br />

permis sion of the Publisher. <strong>Eatdrink</strong> has a printed circulation<br />

of 20,000 issues published six times annually, for a total of 120,000<br />

copies in print. The views or opinions expressed in the information,<br />

content and/or advertisements published in <strong>Eatdrink</strong> or online<br />

are solely those of the author(s) and do not necessarily represent<br />

those of the Publisher. The Publisher welcomes submissions but<br />

accepts no responsibility for unsolicited material.<br />

Serving up<br />

Great<br />

partnerships<br />

commercial | digital | wide format | design<br />

Let us help with your next project...<br />

519.866.5558 | ben@sportswood.on.ca<br />


Contents<br />

Issue <strong>#81</strong> | <strong>January</strong>/<strong>February</strong> <strong>2020</strong><br />

Publisher’s Notes<br />

Twenty-Twenty Vision<br />

Hindsight and Foresight in <strong>2020</strong><br />


6<br />

Restaurants<br />

Central & East European Cuisines<br />

Celebrating Time-Honoured Bonds<br />

Happiness Café<br />

Budapest Restaurant<br />

Unique Food Attitudes<br />

Aranka Csárda<br />

Marienbad Restaurant<br />


12<br />

Road Trips<br />

Can You Drive to Italy?<br />

Eataly Toronto Is Now Open<br />


24<br />

Profiles of Excellence<br />

<strong>2020</strong> London<br />

Wine & Food Show<br />

Supplement<br />

Cowbell Brewing Co.<br />

30<br />

Dairy Distillery<br />

32<br />

Beer<br />

Expand Your Beer Palate<br />

Recommendations Outside the Average<br />

Comfort Zone<br />


34<br />

38<br />

24<br />

56<br />

58<br />

Wine<br />

Baby, It’s Cold Outside<br />

Local Reds to Warm You Up<br />


38<br />

The BUZZ<br />

Culinary Community Notes<br />

New and Notable<br />


41<br />

Theatre<br />

Make Room on Your Calendar<br />

A North American Premiere<br />


53<br />

Books<br />

Hungry<br />

Eating, Road-tripping, and Risking it All<br />

with the Greatest Chef in the World<br />

By Jeff Gordinier<br />

Review by DARIN COOK<br />

56<br />

Recipes<br />

Fermentation Revolution<br />

by Sébastien Bureau and David Côté<br />

Review & Recipe Selections<br />


58<br />

The Lighter Side<br />

Super Bowl & Stout<br />

By KYM WOLFE<br />

62<br />


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>January</strong>/<strong>February</strong> <strong>2020</strong> | 5<br />


For Our Succulent<br />

Valentine’s Day Dinner<br />

Friday, <strong>February</strong> 14<br />

Call for reservations<br />

519-430-6414<br />

/Blakes2ndFloor<br />


6 | <strong>January</strong>/<strong>February</strong> <strong>2020</strong><br />

Publisher’s Notes<br />

Twenty-Twenty Vision<br />

Hindsight and Foresight in <strong>2020</strong><br />


eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

I<br />

am cautiously optimistic that the new<br />

decade that has just been launched will<br />

be one that will be looked back upon<br />

with fondness at some future date. A<br />

century ago, the world was in a sorry state,<br />

coming out of a grievous period marked by<br />

horrifying world war followed by a devastating<br />

influenza epidemic. Today’s climate change<br />

crisis, with floods and fires<br />

taking a toll in equal measure,<br />

and the preponderance of harsh<br />

autocrats and self-interested<br />

oligarchs coming to power in so<br />

many corners of the globe has<br />

similarly put many of us into a<br />

dark mood, with worries about<br />

where we are headed as a society.<br />

Is it possible that we are in the<br />

process of turning a corner? Is it<br />

possible that this too shall pass?<br />

Today we recall The Roaring<br />

Twenties of the twentieth<br />

century as a halcyon celebratory<br />

time, with joyful music and<br />

dance, boozy nightlife, and<br />

general prosperity. I don’t imagine too many<br />

people saw that coming in <strong>January</strong> 1920.<br />

Let’s hope we will look back one day upon the<br />

<strong>2020</strong>s with equal affection, as a time when<br />



Local Flavour<br />



Restaurants • Specialty Shops & Services • Farmers’ Markets<br />

Craft Beer & Local Wine • Agri-Tourism Attractions<br />

eatdrink<br />

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine<br />

localflavour.ca<br />

Your sustainable studio who cares<br />

we embraced the environmental changes we<br />

needed to make, as a time when we pushed<br />

back retrograde political impulses and<br />

recommitted ourselves to democracy, equality,<br />

and justice for all. This is certainly possible.<br />

We have got a number of things right over the<br />

past decade. Looking back to our first issue of<br />



VOLUME 8<br />

2010, our Writer at Large Bryan<br />

Lavery wrote about “Culinary<br />

Tourism” as an emerging trend.<br />

Understanding the critical role<br />

that genuine encounters with<br />

local food and drink had in<br />

driving tourism made sense<br />

to us then, and it makes even<br />

more sense to us now, especially<br />

with the recent understanding<br />

of how authentic “Experiential<br />

Tourism” takes this to another<br />

level. All of this is reflected in<br />

our new volume of our annual<br />

Local Flavour guide. Copies will<br />

soon be widely available, and<br />

you can check the localflavour.ca<br />

website for pickup locations, or you can access<br />

the entire guide online.<br />

This year’s guide includes outstanding<br />

culinary attractions throughout our<br />

hair • colour • barber • skin • spa • makeup • 4 everyone<br />

140 Ann Street, Suite 106, London<br />

519 709 4247<br />

www.studioHartistgroup.com<br />


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

corner of Southwest Ontario. London<br />

serves as somewhat of a hub, with strong<br />

representation in the restaurant, specialty<br />

shop and craft brewery areas. Support from<br />

SWOTC (Southwest Ontario Tourism Corp.)<br />

and the Ministry of Tourism helped broaden<br />

participation from the Lake Erie North<br />

Shore and Huron Shores wine regions, as<br />

well as breweries, distillers and agricultural<br />

attractions throughout that region.<br />

Huron and Perth Counties are also well<br />

respresented, particularly by craft brewers,<br />

inns and a strong representation of Stratford<br />

restaurants. There’s plenty for everyone in<br />

this handy guide we’re sure you’ll find useful<br />

throughout <strong>2020</strong>.<br />

Looking back upon the last decade in the life<br />

of <strong>Eatdrink</strong>, it’s also easy to see that we made<br />

some regrettable mistakes along the way. I’m<br />

not referring to the petty but infuriating typos<br />

that somehow manage to make their way into<br />

the carefully edited text, or even a couple of<br />

more serious errors in reportage that involved<br />

apology and clarification or correction. These<br />

were problems that were resolved fairly easily,<br />

or were trivial enough that they were of no real<br />

consequence. My deep regrets come from the<br />

occasional mismanagement of expectations<br />

around stories, and the resulting hurt feelings<br />

and disappointments from people that I care<br />

about. I wish I could promise that this will not<br />

happen again. In good conscience, I cannot<br />

guarantee that.<br />

Our endeavour to celebrate such a large<br />

culinary community with some depth means<br />

that our gaze cannot fall in equal measure<br />

across the full spectrum of activity at all<br />

times. What we can do is strive to keep<br />

our eye roving for exciting new creative<br />

endeavours without ignoring the longstanding<br />

businesses that are equally worth<br />

celebrating. I don’t mean to make excuses, but<br />

this is a heady responsibility and a challenging<br />

task that entails difficult decisions with every<br />

issue of the magazine. If our readers did not<br />

regard our story choices with faith in our<br />

judgment, this would not matter so much,<br />

but we know that our editorial spotlight<br />

generally results in new business. We do<br />

our best to spread that attention around as<br />

generously as possible. It is truly great news<br />

that our community is so rich with stories<br />

worth telling. The bad news is that our little<br />

magazine cannot fit them all into an annual<br />

output of six issues.<br />

Indoor Winter Farmers’ Market<br />

Saturdays, <strong>February</strong> 1–April 4, 9am–1pm<br />

The winter months are a time for cozy<br />

stews, baked goods with hot tea, and<br />

roasted winter vegetables. We have a<br />

specially curated selection of amazing<br />

local vendors keeping us warm<br />

while the market maintains its<br />

“no re-selling” guarantee throughout<br />

the winter months. Enjoy the season with live music,<br />

free yoga, free cooking classes and kids programming.<br />

Skating on the Rotary Rink<br />

Mon-Fri 11am-7pm, Sat 11am-6pm & Sun 11am-4pm.<br />

Lace up your skates and enjoy winter on<br />

the outdoor Rotary Rink at<br />

the Market. Skating is<br />

free and open daily,<br />

weather permitting.<br />

The Ultimate Market Gastro Tour<br />

laveryculinarygroup.ca/experiences<br />

Experience the Covent Garden Market in a new way and<br />

indulge all of your senses with an insider tour by a local<br />

expert. Contact the Lavery<br />

Culinary Group to book a<br />

Forest City Culinary Experience<br />

or have your own<br />

Covent Garden Market<br />

experience custom-tailored.<br />

Individuals, groups and corporate teams are all welcome.<br />

For custom experiences: create@laveryculinarygroup.ca<br />


Mon–Fri 8am–7pm<br />

Saturday 8am–6pm<br />

Sunday 11am–4pm<br />

Mezzanine & Restaurant Hours Differ

8 | <strong>January</strong>/<strong>February</strong> <strong>2020</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

We rely upon our social media channels<br />

to help alleviate some of the pressure<br />

involved with spreading the word about<br />

great businesses and activity that we know<br />

our readers are interested in.<br />

If you are not following us<br />

yet, please do. If you are not<br />

sharing your news with us<br />

online, either directly or by<br />

tagging us with your posts,<br />

please change that. If you<br />

are not sending us your news<br />

for our BUZZ column, start.<br />

We want to share your information and for<br />

many readers, this is the first part of the<br />

magazine that they read. But we don’t have<br />

the journalistic resources to gather all of this<br />

information. Have I mentioned that there<br />

is no charge for any of these services? We’re<br />

waiting to hear from you!<br />

If you have a business that has never<br />

advertised with us, we encourage you to<br />

have a discussion with us about that. While<br />

we labour over our editorial content, we can<br />

assure you that our readers also look at our<br />

ads with genuine interest, and make a great<br />

@eatdrinkmag<br />

deal of purchasing decisions based upon<br />

them. This is the real value in being a niche<br />

publication. The ads in <strong>Eatdrink</strong> magazine are<br />

part and parcel of our ability to tell the story<br />

of what is going on in the<br />

community. We assure you<br />

that there is great value in<br />

investing in ads here. If you<br />

have doubts, we encourage<br />

you to flip through these<br />

pages and call some of our<br />

advertisers and ask them<br />

how this magazine is working<br />

for them. Call at a convenient time and I’m<br />

sure you’ll get an honest answer.<br />

I am pleased that an exceptionally good<br />

friend to <strong>Eatdrink</strong> has embarked upon a welldeserved<br />

retirement, but I am personally and<br />

professionally going to miss my interactions<br />

with Cathy Rehberg at Stratford Tourism<br />

Alliance. Cathy has been a tireless advocate for<br />

Stratford — there has never been any doubt<br />

about where her loyalties lay — yet she has<br />

also given generously of her expertise to help<br />

make <strong>Eatdrink</strong> a better magazine. For a number<br />


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

at the London Hunt Club<br />

April 30 th<br />

5<br />

Different Chefs &<br />

Course Dinner<br />


supporting BethanysCure<br />

Cocktail Hour 5:00PM<br />

5 different restaurants hosting tasting stations!<br />

Featured signature cocktails with<br />

an amazing Silent Auction.<br />

Dinner Program 6:30PM<br />

5 local Chefs will take you on a culinary<br />

journey throughout the evening. Live Auction<br />

hosted by the one and only The Auctionista!<br />

Musical Guest:<br />

Paul Zubot & The Hollywood Band<br />

Tickets $200.00 each<br />

call 519-858-HOPE or visit<br />


10 | <strong>January</strong>/<strong>February</strong> <strong>2020</strong><br />

of years, Cathy volunteered her time with<br />

us as an editorial advisor, not only keeping<br />

us informed about the latest changes and<br />

developments in Stratford, but helping shape<br />

the overall approach and focus of the magazine<br />

with suggestions and feedback. This was a vital<br />

service, and helped immeasurably in getting<br />

us on a successful track. Just as important was<br />

Cathy’s constant encouragement and buoyant<br />

good nature, her genuine concern for our<br />

success, and kindness, even when her budget<br />

was tighter than we wished it was, or she asked<br />

for data to decide whether to recommend<br />

her organization spend money with <strong>Eatdrink</strong>.<br />

Stratford has always been important to this<br />

publication, but if that had not led us to meet<br />

Cathy Rehberg, I’m not sure we would be where<br />

we are today. Thanks, Cathy. I look forward to<br />

hearing about your next adventures.<br />

The <strong>Eatdrink</strong> New Year effectively kicks off at<br />

the London Wine & Food Show every year,<br />

running <strong>January</strong> 16–18 in <strong>2020</strong> at the Western<br />

Fair Agriplex, and we’re proud to include our<br />

“Profiles of Excellence” show supplement<br />

in this issue. Innovators Cowbell Brewing<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Co. and Dairy Distillery are featured, and<br />

I think that it is no coincidence that both<br />

have made architectural and environmental<br />

considerations central to their business<br />

model. Consumers demand a great product —<br />

that’s number one — but read on to find out<br />

how that is enhanced, not compromised, by<br />

their manufacturing approach.<br />

Bryan Lavery had rounded up a number of<br />

outstanding examples of Central and Eastern<br />

European cuisines that contribute to London’s<br />

vital restaurant scene. There’s more than<br />

sauerkraut on the menus, but with that kind<br />

of fermentation becoming such a hot trend,<br />

from kombucha to kimchi to craft cocktails,<br />

Tracy Turlin reviews Fermentation Revolution<br />

as a guide for us, with some inspiring recipes.<br />

George Macke has some great suggestions for<br />

broadening one’s craft beer palate, and Gary<br />

Killops has some Ontario red wines that will<br />

help warm you up for winter. There’s plenty<br />

more to make this a great start to the year, and<br />

I wish you all the best for <strong>2020</strong>.<br />

Peace,<br />

LOVE,<br />

LOVE IT!<br />

SO MANY<br />

SHOPS.<br />


HALINA A.<br />


Trust...<br />

Taste...<br />

Quality...<br />

The heart of<br />

Downtown<br />

Strathroy<br />

At Metzger’s,<br />

we follow Old World<br />

recipes to create healthy and<br />

wholesome foods. We hand select<br />

dry aged Ontario Prime and AAA<br />

Beef and offer superior local Pork,<br />

Poultry and Lamb. We are especially<br />

proud of our own handcrafted<br />

artisan-style meats and salamis. We<br />

are confident that you will taste the<br />

Metzger Meats difference.<br />

Voted #1 Best Burger<br />

in Strathroy<br />

2018 Spirit Awards Winner<br />

Chef/Owner Mark Graham’s<br />

fresh, creative, locallysourced<br />

menus extend<br />

to full-service catering<br />

to Strathroy, London &<br />

area. Call for a quote!<br />

Open six days a week.<br />

Hensall, Ontario<br />

Just off Hwy 4,<br />

45 minutes north of London.<br />

www.metzgermeats.com<br />

519-262-3130<br />

Available in London at<br />

The Village Meat Shop<br />

at Western Fair Farmers’ Market<br />

on Saturdays!<br />

Local Beef • Pork • Lamb • Poultry<br />

Specialty European Meat Products<br />

Historic Post Office & Customs Building<br />

71 Frank St, Strathroy • 519-205-1500<br />


12 | <strong>January</strong>/<strong>February</strong> <strong>2020</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Restaurants<br />

Celebrating<br />

Time-Honoured Bonds<br />

Central and Eastern European Cuisine in London<br />


Eastern European bonds of culture and<br />

cuisine are closely tied to the changing<br />

borders and economic renaissance<br />

of the region following lengthy<br />

periods of conflict and turmoil. In recent<br />

years, Eastern European cuisines have been<br />

overlooked and underrated by the food media<br />

in the West. The cuisines are overshadowed,<br />

stereotyped as unremarkable, heavy and not<br />

particularly innovative. This is the opposite of<br />

my own experiences.<br />

The Budapest<br />

and the Marienbad<br />

restaurants have long<br />

served as London’s<br />

quintessential<br />

restaurants for Eastern<br />

European-style dining,<br />

but the list does not<br />

end there. If you<br />

scratch just beyond<br />

the surface, you will<br />

find that London can<br />

boast a comprehensive<br />

regional variety of<br />

cooking styles which<br />

includes, among others, Hungarian, Czech,<br />

Ukrainian and Polish cuisines.<br />

London has a standout gourmet food<br />

emporium in Alicia’s Fine Foods on Trafalgar<br />

Street near Highbury. Alicia’s stocks a vast<br />

selection of Eastern European food products<br />

with a focus on Poland, everything from<br />

confectionery and chocolates to preserves,<br />

condiments, canned fish, chestnut paste,<br />

pączki and other challenging-to-find products.<br />

Pączki are essentially fried and glazed<br />

doughnuts made with a rich dough mixture<br />

of eggs, fats, sugar and yeast, filled with fruit<br />

purée or custard. Alicia’s has an extensive<br />

delicatessen counter, large bakery and pastry<br />

selection, and a European grocery section with<br />

many Eastern European versions of products.<br />

Anna Turkiewicz is a well-known caterer and<br />

has been a Covent Garden Market mainstay<br />

for the last two decades. She is the friendly,<br />

hands-on owner of Kleiber’s Deli (at the<br />

Market since 1940) and known for her quality<br />

delicatessen and gourmet products, which<br />

are procured from across Poland, Germany,<br />

Holland, Switzerland and other parts of Europe.<br />

Well-known to downtown food enthusiasts, for<br />

whom Turkiewicz<br />

prepares her<br />

signature soups,<br />

cabbage rolls,<br />

schnitzels, sausages<br />

and refutably the<br />

finest pierogies<br />

downtown for takeaway.<br />

This is the style<br />

of home cooking<br />

Turkiewicz enjoyed<br />

when growing up,<br />

and later as a cook<br />

and dietician in<br />

Czestochowa, Poland,<br />

where she met her<br />

husband Andrzej, also a professional cook.<br />

There are often line-ups that attest to Kleiber’s<br />

popularity. This is where you can purchase<br />

marzipan, quince jams, mustards, and holiday<br />

confectionery. Turkiewicz is also the caterer at<br />

the German-Canadian Club, where she operates<br />

Anna’s Catering.<br />

At the Market at Western Fair there is<br />

Agnes Petenyi’s Hungarian-inspired Butcher’s<br />

Wife and Evi’s Deli which is known for<br />

Hungarian sausages, pepperettes and garlic<br />

spread. Across the street from the Market,<br />

Miki Hambleck’s The Hungary Butcher makes<br />

over 40 varieties of European-style handmade<br />

sausages with quality ingredients that are<br />

mainly gluten-free. Hambleck uses all-natural<br />

Chocolate Entremets (multi-layered mousse cakes)<br />

with apricot and edible gold from Happiness Café

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

casings and no nitrates or fillers. The familyowned<br />

and operated Bogal Homemade Pierogi<br />

at the Market at Western Fair source local<br />

<strong>January</strong>/<strong>February</strong> <strong>2020</strong> | 13<br />

ingredients, many from within the market, to<br />

make small-batch pierogi from scratch using<br />

a traditional recipe with a contemporary twist.<br />

Ukrainian “Happiness” in Downtown London<br />

Nothing entirely represents a city like its café<br />

culture. Olga and Anatolii Prytkova’s familyowned<br />

Happiness Coffee and Desserts, on<br />

Wellington Street across from One London Place,<br />

features Ukrainian-inspired-style coffee and scratch<br />

baking, including seasonal and specialty cakes,<br />

macarons, cupcakes and chocolates. They offer an<br />

excellent selection of delectable high-end doughnuts<br />

such as glazed pistachio, crème brûlée, caramel-filled<br />

with salted caramel, mango, and passion fruit. There are<br />

croissants, waffles and some of the best European-style<br />

sandwiches you will find in the city. The superb coffee<br />

for their espresso-based drinks comes from specialty<br />

craft roaster Hatch in Toronto.<br />

The premises have a clean, modern feel with plate<br />

glass windows allowing lots of natural light. There are<br />

cups suspended from the ceiling like mobiles and other<br />

cheerful and whimsical touches.<br />

The name Happiness originated when the Prytkovas<br />

lived in central Ukraine in the town of Kropyvnytskyi<br />

(formerly Kirovohrad). A family friend purchased<br />

a box of cakes that Olga had baked and said it was<br />

like a box of happiness, and the name stuck. At the<br />

time, they didn’t have a café, just a small kitchen for<br />

custom orders. They named each of their boxes, “Box of<br />

Happiness,” Prytkova’s said. “When we decided to open<br />

our café in downtown London, we said now it’s not a<br />

box, it’s a place of happiness.”<br />

When the family initially moved to Canada they<br />

settled in Winnipeg for a year and a half. Olga worked<br />

for chocolatier Constance Popp, where they made fresh<br />

premium artisan chocolates, pastries and frozen treats.<br />

The Prytkovas did not like the colder prairie climate<br />

and decided to relocate to London, which is closer in<br />

size and weather to their former hometown in Ukraine.<br />

In addition to their exquisite icings and glazes,<br />

Happiness can laser print images on their cookies,<br />

French macarons, mousse cakes and chocolates.<br />

“People choose selfies, logos, or sweet messages,” says<br />

Prytkova. “Your logo will not only look great but will<br />

taste great too.”<br />

1<br />

2<br />

Happiness Café<br />

430 Wellington Street, London<br />

519-204-2854<br />

myhappiness.ca<br />

tuesday to friday: 8:30 am–6 pm<br />

saturday: 9 am–5 pm<br />

sunday: 10 am–4 pm<br />

closed monday<br />

3<br />

1 Entremets —multi-layered mousse cakes<br />

2 A Signature Wedding Cake<br />

3 A Variety of Cupcakes

14 | <strong>January</strong>/<strong>February</strong> <strong>2020</strong><br />

Budapest Restaurant’s Renaissance<br />

The landmark Budapest Restaurant has<br />

been operating since 1956, and owners<br />

Eduard Nagy and Anita Tasonyi,<br />

20-year veterans of the establishment, have<br />

been operating the restaurant for over a<br />

year. Protégés of the legendary restaurateur<br />

Marika Hayek, they continue to delight<br />

clients by offering authentic Hungarian<br />

food and drink. The restaurant is having a<br />

renaissance; the kitchen has recently been<br />

renovated and modernized, menus have<br />

been refreshed, the glassware and silverware<br />

updated. There is a new street-side canopied<br />

Owners Anita<br />

Tasonyi &<br />

Eduard Nagy<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

patio for al fresco dining.<br />

A local gem, with bohemian ambience and<br />

a Roma Gypsy-style aesthetic with plush<br />

velvet valances and curtained alcoves and<br />

comfortable armchairs, the décor is a mix of<br />

traditional designs, embroidery, lace, textures,<br />

prints and photographs.<br />

Two main rooms lead back from Dundas<br />

Street linked by an arched passageway<br />

across the middle, with an elevated ornate<br />

banquet hall for private functions at the far<br />

end. The feel is Old World European with<br />

heart, and a deliciously authentic menu.<br />

Confident, expansive cooking keeps<br />

traditional Hungarian flavours front<br />

and centre — think classic offerings<br />

flavoured predominantly by woodsy,<br />

smoky Hungarian paprika — dishes<br />

that are precisely prepared and<br />

expertly flavoured. Paprika is not just a<br />

superficial specialty to garnish food, but<br />

an integral element. Budapest is much<br />

more than a venerable schnitzel house.<br />

It is home to classic stroganoff and<br />

blintz, all indicative of the cuisine.<br />

Goulash (gulyás) originated as a<br />

humble soup-stew, cooked over an open<br />

fire by Hungarian herdsmen. Still, the<br />

addition of refined varieties of paprika<br />

from ground red chillies, tender beef,<br />

and a rich tomato base have made the<br />

dish an international staple. Goulash is<br />

served here both as a hearty soup and as<br />

an entrée. House-made pierogies filled<br />

with potato and dill, fried golden and<br />

topped with sour cream and bacon, are a<br />

new addition to the appetizer selection.<br />

Signature dishes include a variety of<br />

superb schnitzels, dipped in egg batter,<br />

coated with breadcrumbs and golden<br />

fried. Iconic cabbage rolls are delicious<br />

parcels of spiced pork and rice with a<br />

creamy paprika sauce and served with<br />

debreceni sausage. There are medallions<br />

of pork tenderloin with garlic and<br />

Hungarian spices, and slow-cooked<br />

roast lamb shoulder with a cream and<br />

mustard sauce. Traditional combination<br />

platters or special prix-fixe Hungarian<br />

dinners — served with nokedli (regional<br />

Recent renovations include the installation<br />

of a welcoming street-side canopied patio for<br />

seasonal al fresco dining.

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

1<br />

2<br />

<strong>January</strong>/<strong>February</strong> <strong>2020</strong> | 15<br />

Hungarian dumplings) are always delicious<br />

— but save room for dessert. On offer are<br />

a stunning classic walnut roll, house-made<br />

strudels and palacsinta (crepes). At the<br />

heart of the restaurant’s 64 years of success<br />

is food thoughtfully prepared and crafted<br />

with quality ingredients.<br />

Chef is an innovator, adding interesting<br />

contemporary twists to the dishes and<br />

the plating. The passionate kitchen takes<br />

a handful of top quality ingredients and<br />

allows them to shine. That is Marika<br />

Hayek’s legacy.<br />

Friendly staff can accommodate dietary<br />

requirements and restrictions. The familyrun<br />

restaurant offers banquet facilities and<br />

is available for lunch and dinner parties,<br />

celebrations, business meetings and<br />

weddings. Located downtown in the hotel<br />

district, the restaurant is a short walk to<br />

the Delta Armouries, DoubleTree by Hilton<br />

and RBC Place London.<br />

Budapest Restaurant<br />

348 Dundas Street (at Waterloo)<br />

519-439-3431<br />

budapestrestaurant.com<br />

monday–thursday: 11 am–2 pm; 4 pm–10 pm<br />

friday: 11 am–2 pm; 4 pm–10 pm<br />

saturday: 4 pm–10 pm<br />

sunday: 4 pm–9 pm<br />

Interior photos by NICK LAVERY<br />

3<br />

4<br />

1 Hungarian dinners — served with nokedli (regional<br />

Hungarian dumplings) — are always delicious<br />

2 Signature dishes include superb schnitzels, dipped in egg<br />

batter, coated with breadcrumbs and golden fried.<br />

3 Chicken Schnitzel on a Kaiser<br />

4 Braised cabbage roll served with nokedli and Debreceni<br />

sausage<br />

Dining Room Manager Julia

16 | <strong>January</strong>/<strong>February</strong> <strong>2020</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

A Modern Polish Culinary Perspective:<br />

Unique Food Attitudes in Old East Village<br />

Barbara Czyz has operated Unique Food<br />

Attitudes as a catering business for 24<br />

years. Her seven-year-old bistro in Old<br />

East Village across from the Palace Theatre<br />

and the Ark Aid Mission has been an ongoing<br />

success due to its accessible modern Polish<br />

culinary perspective. The bistro with its black<br />

slate counters, chrome accents, comfortable<br />

seating, window seating and large<br />

storefront windows with lots of natural<br />

lighting continues to draw clients from<br />

all over the city for the food and the<br />

warm and friendly vibe.<br />

Czyz and her husband, Jaroslaw<br />

(Jarek), immigrated to London from<br />

Poland via Greece in 1989. When Czyz<br />

graduated from Fanshawe College’s<br />

Culinary Management course in 1996,<br />

she and two classmates formed a<br />

catering company. One partner left<br />

after six months and the other after<br />

two years, leaving Czyz as the sole proprietor.<br />

Czyz really upped the ante when she signed<br />

exclusive catering contracts with Delta Emco<br />

and Trojan Technologies, where she operates<br />

the employee cafeterias, aided by Chef<br />

Julianna Guy.<br />

The menu and chalkboard offerings at<br />

the Unique Food Attitudes bistro feature<br />

traditional Polish cuisine with a seductive,<br />

clean and minimalist flair. This is the cooking<br />

of Czyz’s mother, the food that speaks the<br />

Owner Barbara Czyz<br />

truth of her family. The kitchen showcases<br />

its versatility with house specialties such as<br />

traditional kurek soup with kielbasa and egg,<br />

and earthy red borscht with a distinctive<br />

Photo courtesy of London Free Press<br />

1<br />

2<br />

Traditional Polish cuisine<br />

with chalkboard specials<br />

and minimalist flair<br />

1 Breaded Pork Cutlet with potatoes and mizeria<br />

(cucumber salad)<br />

2 Polish Poutine (cheddar pierogies covered with<br />

goulash sauce and Cheddar cheese) and surówka z<br />

czerwonej kapusty (red cabbage salad)

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>January</strong>/<strong>February</strong> <strong>2020</strong> | 17<br />

sweet and sour flavour. There is<br />

goulash ladled over crispy placki<br />

(potato pancakes), krokiety (crepes),<br />

bigos (sauerkraut-mushroommeat<br />

stew) and tender pierogies<br />

(dumplings) filled with sauerkraut<br />

and/or mushrooms, meat, potato<br />

and/or savoury cheese, with fried<br />

onions. Specials have included stuffed<br />

beef rolls with pickles, peppers and<br />

onions smothered in a zesty mustard<br />

sauce served with shredded carrot<br />

salad and two perfect scoops of<br />

mashed potatoes.<br />

House-made cabbage rolls are<br />

slow-cooked and made of pork, rice<br />

and bacon. Sauce is often the main<br />

difference in regional variations.<br />

Czyz is known for a lighter sauce<br />

that is a perfect complement to<br />

her cabbage rolls. Signature Polish<br />

poutine features house-made<br />

Cheddar pierogies with goulash and<br />

additional Cheddar cheese. We love<br />

the crispy and perfectly balanced<br />

mizeria (cucumber and sour cream<br />

salad). There is sauerkraut salad<br />

and a shredded red cabbage salad<br />

that is otherworldly. There are apple<br />

pancakes with fresh fruit and whipped<br />

cream, French toast, crepes, omelets<br />

and deli sandwiches on the breakfast<br />

menu. There is sensuality to the food<br />

and presentation. One day our server<br />

recommended the lemon posset, on<br />

another day, the szavlotka (apple cake)<br />

and we have been devotees of the<br />

desserts ever since. Czyz has built a<br />

reputation for wedding and holiday<br />

cakes, including her handmade<br />

krokettas and schlegye that remind her<br />

European clientele of their homelands.<br />

Her son Matt is often serving in<br />

the front of house, and daughter<br />

Patrycja when home is on hand in the<br />

restaurant. A staunch member of the<br />

Polish community, Czyz continues to<br />

support many community events.<br />

Unique Food Attitudes<br />

697 Dundas Street, London<br />

519-649-2225<br />

unique-food-attitudes.com<br />

monday–wednesday: 9am–6 pm<br />

thursday–saturday: 9 am–8 pm<br />

sunday: closed<br />

3<br />

4<br />

5<br />

6<br />

3 Bigos (sauerkraut-mushroom-meat stew) and fresh bread<br />

4 Soup of the Day and Deli Sandwich<br />

5 Goulash with Placki (potato pancakes) and surówka z czerwonej<br />

kapusty (red cabbage salad)<br />

6 Raspberry and Chocolate Cake

18 | <strong>January</strong>/<strong>February</strong> <strong>2020</strong><br />

Aranka Csárda is a family-run Hungarian<br />

restaurant on Longwoods Road, beside<br />

Millar Berry Farms, just outside of<br />

Lambeth. The Komaromi family take pride in<br />

ownership and serve authentic, quality food. The<br />

decor and colour scheme are meant to reflect<br />

the ambience of an authentic Hungarian csárda<br />

(traditionally a tavern on the outskirts of town).<br />

Renovations on the former premises of George’s<br />

Family Restaurant, which more recently had<br />

housed Yia Yia’s Grille, commenced in the summer<br />

of 2016, and Aranka Csárda officially opened<br />

for business in November 2016. Recently the<br />

restaurant survived six months of unrelenting<br />

road construction.<br />

Aranka, a popular traditional Hungarian name<br />

derived from the Hungarian “arany” meaning<br />

“gold”, translates to Goldie in English. It is the<br />

name of Zoltan’s wife, who is known for her<br />

cooking skills. In 1993, during the civil war, Zoltan<br />

and Aranka, with two six-month-old twin boys<br />

and a three-year-old daughter, left the town<br />

of Ada in the former Yugoslavia (now in the<br />

province of Vojvodina, Serbia) and immigrated<br />

to Canada. Zoltan spent some time working<br />

with the Hungarian Independent Film and Video<br />

Association of Budapest, owning and operating Zoli<br />

Video Productions after he arrived in Canada.<br />

The casual white-linen dining room has<br />

banquette seating as well as tables and chairs.<br />

There is lots of natural light and the artifacts and<br />

stoneware adorning the walls and windowsills<br />

have been donated by the local Hungarian<br />

community.<br />

Chef Eva Szilagy is a Budapest native and it<br />

is undoubtedly paprika that characterizes her<br />

cuisine. Traditional recipes have their heart and<br />

soul in the Hungarian classics. The cuisine uses<br />

a lot of onions and sour cream, and butter is the<br />

base for many of the homemade recipes.<br />

Meats are sourced twice a week from the<br />

Tribizan family-owned Mount Brydges Abattoir,<br />

located 15 minutes outside London. The family<br />

is known for quality fresh and smoked meats,<br />

especially the sausages. Zolton says, due to the<br />

abattoir owners’ Slovenian background, they<br />

were able to introduce Hungarian Ribs on the<br />

menu. These ribs require a special cut with lots of<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Hungarian Tradition & Authenticity at Aranka Csárda<br />

1<br />

2<br />

1 Owner Zoltan Komaromi and Chef Eva Szilagy<br />

2 Just outside Lambeth, the restaurant offers ample<br />

free parking<br />

3 The casual white-linen dining room offers<br />

comfortable seating and lots of natural light<br />


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

meat on the back ribs. Traditionally Hungarian<br />

Ribs are 7–8 cm thick, multi-layered and juicy.<br />

Additional fat makes the ribs more tender.<br />

Cabbage and sauerkraut are sourced from St.<br />

Jacob’s Foods, a family farm in New Hamburg.<br />

Zoltan’s 81-year-old father makes the trip<br />

regularly to New Hamburg to pick up supplies.<br />

Sour cabbage, a traditional Eastern European<br />

staple, is a full head of cabbage, core removed,<br />

that has been fermented in salt brine which they<br />

use for their signature cabbage rolls. Sauerkraut<br />

is made of shredded cabbage mixed with salt,<br />

which draws out the natural juices of the cabbage,<br />

creating brine for the lacto-fermentation process.<br />

The menu offers gulyásleves, classic Hungarian<br />

goulash with braised beef, potatoes, carrots and<br />

nokedli (dumpling-like pinched noodles) and töltött<br />

káposzta, marinated cabbage rolls with fermented<br />

leaves stuffed with minced pork and rice served<br />

with sauerkraut and tejföl (sour cream). There<br />

are traditional töltött paprikas, which are peppers<br />

stuffed with ground pork and rice and a sauce of<br />

paprika and tomato. Marhapörkölt is Hungarian<br />

beef stew served with nokedli and pickled<br />

vegetables. The Csárda Platter for two consists<br />

of marinated pork steak, breaded cod, garlicpaprika<br />

meatballs, potato wedges, steamed rice<br />

and homemade coleslaw. There is also a Pig Roast<br />

Platter for two consisting of house-made liver<br />

sausage, garlic and paprika sausage, marinated<br />

pork steak, potato wedges and sauerkraut.<br />

The designation “Hungary’s favourite cake”<br />

is given to somlói Galuska, a decadent, trifle-like<br />

dessert composed of sponge cake layered with<br />

vanilla custard, chocolate, walnut and whipped<br />

cream, served here in a coupe glass. There are fresh<br />

and flaky strudels made in-house with apple or<br />

cherry filling. An Eastern European staple, these<br />

strudels are firmly of the Hungarian school. In<br />

season, the restaurant features fresh strawberries<br />

sourced from their neighbour Millar’s Berry Farms<br />

<strong>January</strong>/<strong>February</strong> <strong>2020</strong> | 19<br />

and strawberry palacsinta (crepes) become a<br />

house specialty. Aranka features Hungarian<br />

wines, beer and the world-famous pálinka,<br />

the traditional, fermented fruit brandy.<br />

4<br />

5<br />

Aranka Csárda<br />

7447 Longwoods Road, London<br />

519-652-9696<br />

aranka.ca<br />

tuesday–thursday: 11:30 am–9 pm<br />

friday & saturday: 11:30 am–10 pm<br />

sunday: 11:30 am–9 pm<br />

monday: closed<br />

4 Chicken Paprikash: Stewed quarter chicken with creamy<br />

paprika sauce over nokedli<br />

5 Somlói Galuska: “Hungary’s favourite cake” — a decadent,<br />

trifle-like cake seen here with fresh Apple Strudel<br />

6 Hortobágyi Palacsintae: Savoury chicken stuffed crepe with<br />

paprika and sour cream.<br />


20 | <strong>January</strong>/<strong>February</strong> <strong>2020</strong><br />

The Marienbad is one of downtown<br />

London’s landmark restaurants where<br />

you are sure to find European clientele,<br />

who come for the relaxed ambience and<br />

traditional offerings. More than half the items<br />

on the menu are dishes the Marienbad has been<br />

serving since 1974. The defining characteristics<br />

of the cuisine are traditionally Czech and<br />

deeply connected to other Central European<br />

dishes due to ever-changing borders.<br />

Marienbad endured construction outside<br />

the restaurant for two years while Fanshawe<br />

College was being built at the site of the<br />

former Kingsmill’s Department Store. Times<br />

were difficult. Owner Jerry Pribil has said<br />

he was indebted and thankful to his loyal<br />

clientele and dedicated staff. Without them,<br />

the Marienbad would not have survived. Pribil<br />

persevered, keeping staffing to a minimum.<br />

Fortunately, Pribil had additional employment<br />

teaching hotel and restaurant management in<br />

the United States and Europe.<br />

Chef Klaus Campbell, originally from<br />

Germany, took over the kitchen in 1988 when<br />

he became the head chef. Chef’s thick and<br />

creamy dill pickle and potato soup is, to many<br />

people who question the pickle, surprisingly<br />

tangy and complex. Especially popular are<br />

house specialties like goulash with Bohemian<br />

dumplings and earthy chicken paprikash<br />

served with Haluska (cabbage and noodles).<br />

The Carlsbad rouladen is thinly sliced beef<br />

wrapped around ham, a gerkin and egg and<br />

served with dumplings.<br />

Schnitzels have always been a mainstay at<br />

the Marienbad, and they are more varied than<br />

you might imagine. The ideal schnitzel has a<br />

crispy, dry crust that rises like a soufflé and<br />

shatters with the touch of a fork, revealing<br />

tender, thinly-pounded meat within. A variety<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Marienbad Restaurant: A Czech-Inspired Classic<br />

Marienbad has offered a taste<br />

of Europe since 1974 in one of<br />

downtown London’s oldest<br />

heritage buildings (c. 1854)<br />

of classic schnitzels are on offer, such as crisp<br />

Jäger schnitzel with a creamy mushroom sauce,<br />

and Franz Josef schnitzel stuffed with ham<br />

and Swiss cheese and lightly seasoned with<br />

mustard. Classic Wiener schnitzel (meaning<br />

Viennese cutlet) is prepared traditionally<br />

with veal. During the Schnitzel fest at the<br />

Recently renovated, the<br />

restaurant exudes Old<br />

World style and elegance<br />

Marienbad, they offer a variety of schnitzels<br />

that include Devil Schnitzel, which is natural<br />

pork topped with sautéed mushrooms and hot<br />

peppers. There is also Franconian Schnitzel,<br />

which consists of breaded pork topped with<br />

roasted bacon, mushrooms, cheese and<br />

Hollandaise sauce. Other iterations include<br />

lamb and tuna steak schnitzels.<br />

Classic Czech open-face sandwiches are all<br />

about the taste, and characterized as being rich<br />

and complex in flavour. Creamy chicken liver<br />

pâté piped open-face onto pumpernickel and<br />

garnished with green olives is reminiscent of<br />

quality liverwurst. At lunch there is a Russian<br />

egg, an open-face sandwich with a chopped<br />

egg on potato salad topped with salami, ham,<br />

Swiss cheese and caviar. The traditional Czech<br />

Ploughman has house potato salad on French<br />

stick topped with mildly smoked<br />

Prague Ham. Wenceslas cheese,<br />

a Czech classic, is Edam cheese,<br />

coated with breadcrumbs and<br />

deep-fried to gooey perfection.<br />

Sharing similar characteristics<br />

in aroma and flavour, beer and<br />

cheese complement each other.<br />

The Ploughman and Wenceslas<br />

Cheese are ideally suited to<br />

beer pairings. The natural<br />

carbonation in beer elevates<br />

the palate and accentuates the<br />

nuances in the cheese.

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Marienbad shares a seasonal<br />

European-style sidewalk patio<br />

with partner Chaucer’s Pub<br />

There is apple strudel, a variety of cakes<br />

and several versions of palatschinka with<br />

liqueurs —similar to French crêpes — thin<br />

and golden brown, served with chocolate<br />

or hot raspberries. We like the semi-frozen<br />

Marienbad Bombe, a house specialty with<br />

brandied fruit over ice cream.<br />

The adjoining Chaucer’s Pub offers a casual<br />

ambience and is comfortable and pleasant,<br />

featuring a selection of craft beers and imports<br />

<strong>January</strong>/<strong>February</strong> <strong>2020</strong> | 21<br />

that will surprise the most discerning patrons.<br />

Try one of the 12 European beers on tap,<br />

poured and presented according to tradition.<br />

While there is an emphasis on Belgian beers,<br />

there are roughly 85 different brews from six<br />

continents. As well, there is an exceptional<br />

selection of single malt scotches on offer.<br />

The Marienbad boasts a variety of private<br />

rooms such as the “Fireplace Room” that seats<br />

up to 85 people, the “Prague Room” seating<br />

up to 45, and the “Atrium” with its mural of<br />

Carlsbad, which seats up to 40 guests.<br />

The Marienbad’s most preferred dish is their<br />

celebrated Wiener schnitzel — no matter<br />

what time of the year. The second most<br />

requested crowd-pleaser is the hearty goulash.<br />

Marienbad Restaurant<br />

122 Carling Street, London<br />

519-679-9940<br />

marienbad.ca<br />

monday–thursday: 11:30 am–10:00 pm<br />

friday & saturday: 11:30 am–10:30 pm<br />

sunday: 4:30 pm–9 pm<br />

Restaurant photos by STEVE GRIMES.<br />

BRYAN LAVERY, <strong>Eatdrink</strong> Food Editor and Writer at<br />

Large, brings years of professional experience in the<br />

restaurant and hospitality business, as a chef, restaurant<br />

owner ,and partner in the culinary experience and<br />

consulting business, Lavery Culinary Group. Always on<br />

the lookout for stories <strong>Eatdrink</strong> should be telling, he helps<br />

shape the magazine under his byline and behind the scenes.<br />

2<br />

1<br />

1 Hungarian Goulash is tender Beef in a hearty sauce<br />

with Bohemian dumplings<br />

2 Jäger Schnitzel, tender pan-seated pork served with a<br />

decadent mushroom gravy brandy.

Stratford is<br />

more than<br />

great theatre

visitstratford.ca<br />

@StratfordON<br />

"A fun place to shop<br />

for housewares and gifts!"<br />

WATSON'S<br />


84 Ontario St. Stratford<br />

watsonsofstratford.com<br />


24 | <strong>January</strong>/<strong>February</strong> <strong>2020</strong><br />


Road Trips<br />

Can You Drive to Italy?<br />

Eataly Toronto Is Now Open<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />


What is more exciting than<br />

planning a winter culinary<br />

getaway? Toronto’s Eataly<br />

offers the type of authentic<br />

culinary experience that is sought out not<br />

just by locals, but food and drink enthusiasts<br />

from around the globe. This is Canada’s first<br />

iteration, and given its success it seems likely<br />

that Montreal will be a contender for Eataly in<br />

the not too distant future.<br />

In <strong>January</strong> 2007 the Italian visionary and<br />

entrepreneur Oscar Farinetti converted an<br />

abandoned vermouth factory in Torino into<br />

the first Eataly location. He had travelled<br />

across the 20 regions that comprise Italy to<br />

locate and select a variety of quality regional<br />

products which embrace Slow Food’s partner’s<br />

qualifications for food that is good, clean,<br />

and fair. (Slow Food is the grassroots global<br />

organization founded in 1989 to combat the<br />

erosion of local food culture, tradition, and<br />

encroaching fast-food culture. The initiative has<br />

evolved into a global movement that engages<br />

millions of people in over 160 countries.)<br />

Toronto’s Eataly, the company’s 40th<br />

location, occupies 50,000 square feet and<br />

employs more than 300 people. A $100<br />

million redevelopment of Toronto’s Manulife<br />

La Piazza is a restaurant in the heart of the store,<br />

inspired by the traditional Italian town square.<br />

Centre, a prestige address located at Bay and<br />

Bloor, added a glass façade to the property<br />

to incorporate the new retail space. Inside<br />

the Centre, a reconfiguration and a shuffling<br />

of several crucial tenant spaces allowed for<br />

the construction of the high-concept Eataly<br />

Toronto — a vast culinary utopia.<br />

Eataly reflects the distinguishing characteristics<br />

of the biodiversity of the Italian culinary<br />

repertoire, focusing on the finest regionalspecific<br />

products and traditional ingredients<br />

Italy has to offer. Also on offer is a selection<br />

of small-scale specialty products from dairy<br />

farmers, cheesemakers and butchers. This<br />

is part of Eataly’s philosophy of procuring<br />

locally-sourced products.<br />

The main entrance to Eataly and Il Gran Caffe, a fullservice<br />

Italian Coffee Bar, is on Bloor Street east of Bay.

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>January</strong>/<strong>February</strong> <strong>2020</strong> | 25

26 | <strong>January</strong>/<strong>February</strong> <strong>2020</strong><br />

You can sip<br />

Italian wine,<br />

a Negroni,<br />

Aperol<br />

Spritz or<br />

other Italian<br />

aperitivo<br />

while you<br />

shop, peruse<br />

the aisles<br />

or partake<br />

in a tasting<br />

or cooking<br />

class. There<br />

is seating<br />

La Scuola (Cooking School) for 400 in<br />

the three<br />

restaurants. A fourth, Trattoria Milano, will<br />

open soon on the main floor next to Il Gran<br />

Caffé, an upscale full-service coffee bar from<br />

Italian coffee roaster illy. The ground floor<br />

caffé offers high-quality coffee-based drinks,<br />

confectionery, panini, and a selection of<br />

Italian wines, beer and spirits.<br />

There are multiple market counters,<br />

including a butcher, a baker, a cheesemonger,<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

fresh mozzarella counter, olive oil and<br />

balsamico tasting bar, and fresh pasta and<br />

pizza counters. There are also fruit and<br />

vegetable stands in the food emporium. Eataly<br />

features several bars, a cooking school and<br />

an in-house brewery (in partnership with<br />

Toronto’s Indie Alehouse Brewing Co.).<br />

Menu offerings are traditional and straightforward,<br />

featuring hand-crafted and quality<br />

Italian ingredients, executed with skill and an<br />

eye to detail. In Italy, gastronomy developed<br />

along provincial lines. Until the unification<br />

of Italy in 1861, there was no national Italian<br />

cuisine. The reality of Italian cookery is that<br />

it is a merger of distinct and diverse regional<br />

cuisines and their subsets. The home still<br />

remains the safeguard of Italian indigenous<br />

cooking and culinary traditions, and this is<br />

reflected in the restaurant’s offerings.<br />

On our first visit we ate at La Piazza,<br />

a restaurant in the heart of the store. Its<br />

concept was inspired by the traditional<br />

Italian town square. The tables are situated<br />

close together. We arrived promptly at 11<br />

a.m. to get a good table overlooking Balmuto<br />

Street. La Piazza does not take reservations,<br />


From our farm to your table ...<br />

Award winning hand crafted<br />

alpine style cheese<br />

Fresh Cheese Curds<br />

Cheese Tastings<br />

Gift Baskets &<br />

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Cheese Trays<br />

Fondue & Raclette<br />

Monday to Friday 9am–5pm<br />

Saturday 9am–4pm<br />

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5021 Perth Line 8<br />

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647-689-3884, TICO registration #50013851<br />

519-229-6856<br />

info@stonetowncheese.com<br />


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>January</strong>/<strong>February</strong> <strong>2020</strong> | 27<br />

1 2 3<br />

and the restaurant filled up quickly. From a<br />

fairly extensive menu, we ordered agnolotti<br />

del plin brasato con burro, (Piedmonteseinspired<br />

pork- and veal-stuffed pasta) with<br />

a traditional sauce of butter and sage and<br />

Parmigiano-Reggiano. Agnolotti del plin’s<br />

name is derived from the regional dialect for<br />

“pinch,” which is how the pasta is formed.<br />

This course was followed by a creamy Burrata<br />

(fresh cow milk cheese) served at room<br />

1 Pasta Fresca Counter: Fresh Pasta Handmade Daily<br />

2 Piedmontese-style agnolotti stuffed with pork and<br />

veal with butter and Parmigiano-Reggiano<br />

3 A Chef at La Scuola<br />

temperature, from the region of Puglia, and a<br />

side of house-marinated green olives with bay<br />

leaf, chilli and citrus. Next we had the thickcrust<br />

Capricciosa pizza baked in a small round<br />

pan and topped with Gran Biscotto prosciutto,<br />

Freshly home-made in the heart of the community<br />

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Village<br />

Teapot<br />

Ask about Catering &<br />

Private Event Bookings<br />

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Wed–Sun 10–2:30<br />

Closed Mon & Tues<br />

Gift Certificates Available<br />

13257 Ilderton Road, Ilderton ON<br />

thevillageteapot.ca<br />

519-298-TEAS (8327)<br />

<br />

<br />

Travel the slow roads to charming tidy towns, music-filled<br />

pubs, ancient tombs & castles. Enjoy leisurely walks,<br />

gourmet food & welcoming country hotels. You won’t find<br />

another itinerary like it.<br />

For any and all of your travel needs<br />

<br />

Heather Wilkinson<br />

Regional Office: 31 Nottinghill Gate, Suite 203, Oakville<br />


28 | <strong>January</strong>/<strong>February</strong> <strong>2020</strong><br />

The Formaggi Counter: Tiers of<br />

Wheels of Parmigiano-Reggiano<br />

Cotta Rovagnati (cooked ham from the region<br />

of Lombardy), olives (there are an estimated<br />

538 cultivars of olives in Italy), artichokes,<br />

homemade hand-stretched mozzarella and<br />

Mutti-brand tomato sauce. Three distinct<br />

regional types of pizza are available in<br />

different areas. Servers are knowledgeable<br />

about the cuisine.<br />

Fresh kinds of region-specific pasta,<br />

prepared from scratch on-site, include fiore<br />

de zucca (literally pumpkin flower), ravioli de<br />

ricotta e spinaci, cacao e pepe alla Romana,<br />

black squid-ink linguine (which I purchased<br />

fresh for the 13-meatless-course “Vigilia” feast<br />

on Christmas Eve) campanelle, bucantini,<br />

quadrati and several other varieties. Every<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

fresh pasta shape (we counted over a dozen)<br />

is extruded through a bronze mould and airdried<br />

to ensure the pasta is of the optimal<br />

consistency to stick to the sauce. You can<br />

purchase pasta by weight at the counter and<br />

have it packaged in a pristine, white cardboard<br />

box for takeaway, or you can order different<br />

kinds of pasta to eat in one of the restaurants.<br />

There are over 400 different varieties of<br />

regional cheese produced in Italy. Many<br />

varieties differ according to region and<br />

production method. A dedicated formaggio<br />

counter features many hand-crafted cheeses<br />

on rotation, including fresh types procured<br />

locally from Canadian suppliers. There is a<br />

4-tier shelf of Parmigiano-Reggiano wheels,<br />

each one crafted with 500 litres of milk and<br />

priced around $2,000. In Italy, certification<br />

laws require that Parmigiano-Reggiano<br />

be made according to a specific recipe and<br />

production methods, and only within specific<br />

geographical regions.<br />

Executive pastry chef Katia Delogu trained<br />

in Torino, the home of Eataly’s pastry<br />

program. Her team brings a passion for pure<br />

and simple ingredients to Eataly’s Pasticceria,<br />

from crunchy cantucci to buttery biscotti to<br />

Delogu’s mother’s take on tiramisu. Signature<br />

dolci (sweet desserts, cakes and pastries)<br />

exemplify the art of Italian confectionary.<br />

Torronato is a stunning hazelnut-nougat<br />

studded mascarpone cream, sweetened with<br />

honey, layered with espresso-soaked rice<br />

sponge cake, and finished with cocoa-dusted<br />

chocolate squares. There is millefoglie alla<br />

gianduja, flaky puff pastry layered with<br />

gianduja (paste made of chocolate and<br />

ground hazelnuts) pastry cream, frosted<br />

with Chantilly cream and finished with<br />

crushed hazelnuts and gianduja. There is the<br />

incredible Italian gourmet chocolatier Venchi,<br />

a cannoli station, and an artisanal gelato<br />

station featuring flavours such as maple and<br />

pistachio.<br />

As an Italian culinary aficionado, student<br />

and teacher, trips to Italy have been among<br />

my favourite culinary journeys. Eataly brings<br />

an authentic Italian experience to downtown<br />

Toronto.<br />

The Enoteca Bar<br />

BRYAN LAVERY, <strong>Eatdrink</strong> Food Editor and Writer<br />

at Large, brings years of professional experience in<br />

the restaurant and hospitality business, as a chef,<br />

restaurateur and partner in the culinary consulting<br />

business and experience provider, Lavery Culinary Group.

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

eatdrink<br />

<strong>2020</strong> London<br />

Wine & Food Show<br />

Profiles of<br />

Excellence<br />


Cowbell Brewing Co.<br />

Winning Together<br />

Dairy Distillery<br />

A Proudly Canadian Spirit

30<br />

eatdrink<br />

Profiles of Excellence<br />

Winning Together<br />

Cowbell Brewing Co.<br />

Craft Beer that Rings True<br />

The Cowbell Experience<br />

Cowbell Kitchen, the restaurant at the brewery, specializes in truly<br />

local farm-to-table fare, with over 75% of the food served sourced in<br />

Huron County, paired beautifully with Cowbell beers and Farm Exclusive<br />

draught offerings. The Cowbell team curates a fresh, seasonal menu<br />

with daily features, delicious<br />

appetizers, farm-made<br />

burgers, wood-fired pizzas<br />

and vegan, vegetarian,<br />

dairy-free and gluten-free<br />

selections. Guest favourites<br />

include the ‘Royale Pizza’<br />

and ‘The Wagyu’ burger,<br />

featuring locally grown<br />

Wagyu beef from Grazing Meadows Wagyu located 20 kilometers from<br />

The Farm. Cowbell beers are highlighted throughout the menu, along<br />

with an impressive list of farm-made cocktails and Huron County wines.<br />

“We would like everyone to feel welcome at Cowbell,” said Grant<br />

Sparling, Chief Development Officer. “Enjoy a pint of craft beer and<br />

experience a taste of what Huron County has to offer.”<br />

With 26,000 square feet to explore, guests may take a guided or selfguided<br />

tour and enjoy unobstructed catwalk views of almost everything,<br />

including the state-of-the-art brewhouse. Thresher’s Hall and The Loft<br />

provide one-of-a-kind settings<br />

for private events and intimate<br />

weddings. Whether you’re<br />

stopping in for a pint, shopping<br />

at the Cowbell General<br />

Store or celebrating a special<br />

occasion, Cowbell offers something<br />

for everyone.<br />

Cowbell Brewing Co. is Canada’s Destination<br />

Brewery. Family-friendly and accessible, this<br />

award-winning brewery is committed to<br />

making world-class craft beer. And making<br />

a difference. Taking generations of business<br />

expertise into craft brewing, Steven and<br />

the third generation, Grant Sparling II, lead<br />

an ambitious team that is committed to<br />

outstanding beer, local food and memorable<br />

experiences at the Cowbell Farm.<br />

Community-<br />

Inspired Brews<br />

Cowbell’s skilled brewing team creates<br />

exceptional recipes using the highest<br />

quality ingredients. The Founders’<br />

Series beers are available year-round,<br />

representing Cowbell’s creative<br />

interpretations of six classic beer styles.<br />

Each beer is named for remarkable, true<br />

characters of Blyth’s past and the story<br />

on every can shares a piece of Blyth’s<br />

history with the world.<br />

For more adventurous beer fans,<br />

the Renegade Series and the<br />

Anniversary Series, featuring<br />

Almanac and Reunion, a solera-style<br />

beer, explore courageous flavours while<br />

showcasing the talent of the brewing<br />

team. Act fast! These specialty beers are<br />

only available in limited quantities.

Commitment to the Environment<br />

Cowbell is committed to being a good steward of the land, just as generations<br />

of farmers have before. Whether through the brewery building or design and<br />

operation, Cowbell is sincere in its efforts to maintain highly sustainable practices.<br />

Beyond the beautiful wood-frame structure, Cowbell has incorporated<br />

building design, materials, and best of class operations to improve efficiency<br />

and to reduce the impact on the local environment. Cowbell also participates<br />

in a carbon sequestration program, achieved through an onsite reforestation<br />

project consisting of 17,000 trees and pollinators.<br />

In Your Community<br />

Cowbell gives back with the sale of each and every pint or can<br />

of beer. From the very first pint sold in May 2016, Cowbell has<br />

donated five-cents to their Greener Pastures Community<br />

Fund. This fund supports life-enhancing programs to improve<br />

children’s health and well-being at Ontario’s four children’s<br />

hospitals: Children’s Hospital in London, SickKids in<br />

Toronto, McMaster Children’s Hospital in Hamilton and the<br />

Children’s Hospital of Eastern Ontario in Ottawa. The fund<br />

also provides support for programming at the Canadian Centre<br />

for Rural Creativity in Blyth. By the end of November 2019,<br />

$360,000 has been donated to Cowbell’s community partners.<br />

“For every pint or can of Cowbell sold in your community,<br />

the donation is to your local children’s hospital,” says Sparling.<br />

“Thanks to friends of Cowbell, we have accomplished amazing<br />

things — and we are<br />

just getting started.<br />

A nickel can make a<br />

meaningful impact in<br />

the life of a child facing<br />

health complications,<br />

and we are grateful<br />

for the support of the<br />

communities around us.”<br />

Winning Together<br />

Cowbell is designed to be about more than great beer.<br />

To the Sparlings, Cowbell is about family, economic<br />

development and community success. It is about working<br />

hard to craft a winning recipe for their success and the<br />

success of people and communities. It’s a commitment<br />

to working together and winning together.<br />

Cowbell Brewing Co.<br />

40035 Blyth Rd, Blyth<br />

844-523-4724<br />

cowbellbrewing.com<br />

Profiles of Excellence eatdrink 31<br />

Cowbell General Store<br />

The Cowbell experience does not end when<br />

you leave. The Cowbell General Store features<br />

Cowbell gear — most of it made in Canada<br />

— and Cowbell beer. Take home something to<br />

remember your trip to The Farm. Cowbell beer is<br />

available in cans and growlers, and small-batch<br />

beers are available in 750mL and 1.5L bottles. The<br />

General Store also features a selection of “guest<br />

favourite” Cowbell Kitchen products that have been<br />

developed with local businesses, including a line<br />

of rubs and sauces with Garlic Box from Hensall,<br />

custom roasted coffee with ShopBike Coffee in<br />

Bayfield, and custom chocolate treats with Rhèo<br />

Thompson in Stratford. Most merchandise is also<br />

available at the Cowbell Online Store.

32<br />

eatdrink<br />

Profiles of Excellence<br />

A Proudly Canadian Spirit<br />

Dairy Distillery<br />

Innovation Using Ontario Milk<br />

A truly remarkable spirit is<br />

the product of the character<br />

of its ingredients, the<br />

mastery of its making and<br />

the depth of its story.<br />

Environmental & Social Benefits<br />

All spirits are made by fermenting sugar. Dairy Distillery uses a sugar<br />

rarely used to make spirits: milk sugar. Milk sugar, or lactose, is a natural,<br />

healthy sugar. It was first fermented to make alcohol by the Mongols over<br />

a thousand years ago. While milk sugar produces a cleaner, smoother,<br />

gluten-free spirit, it never became popular with distillers due to its high<br />

cost and production challenges.<br />

Milk from 3,500 Ontario dairy farms is sent to large processors where<br />

the cream is removed to make butter and the proteins concentrated to<br />

make ultrafiltered milk used by cheese and yogurt makers. When making<br />

ultrafiltered milk, a sugar rich liquid called milk permeate is produced.<br />

Most milk permeate is dumped, creating a<br />

strain on the environment and a disposal cost<br />

for dairy farmers.<br />

In this “waste,” Dairy Distillery Founder &<br />

CEO Omid McDonald saw an opportunity to<br />

make world-class spirits with the potential<br />

to support hard working local farmers and<br />

the environment. In collaboration with the<br />

University of Ottawa, a process to convert<br />

milk permeate into an unbelievably smooth<br />

spirit has been perfected. Thanks to this<br />

process, anything that Dairy Distillery<br />

doesn’t bottle can be safely put back into<br />

the environment. And buying milk permeate<br />

helps Ontario dairy farmers.

Vodkow: More than “Local Vodka”<br />

What does innovation taste like? In a word: DELICIOUS! One could call this<br />

“local vodka” but Dairy Distillery has branded their unique clear spirit as<br />

Vodkow. It is both lactose and sugar free.<br />

It’s subtly sweet on the nose with traces of<br />

vanilla. The palate provides<br />

a velvety smooth experience<br />

that fades beautifully into a<br />

sparkling clean finish accented<br />

by a hint of whipped cream.<br />

The spirit has character to<br />

be enjoyed on its own while<br />

being versatile to mix in your<br />

favourite cocktail.<br />

Dairy Heritage<br />

Meets State-ofthe-Art<br />

Design<br />

Dairy Distillery built its state-of-the-art micro distillery in Almonte,<br />

a small 19th-century mill town situated along the scenic Canadian<br />

Mississippi River, a short drive from Ottawa. Almonte has become a<br />

foodie destination of note, and its limestone mill buildings have been<br />

lovingly preserved and now house an eclectic mix of boutiques, craft<br />

shops and galleries. Dairy Distillery is proud to be part of this inspiring<br />

community and has planted roots in Almonte for generations to come.<br />

A reflection of our dairy heritage and Dairy Distillery’s modern<br />

outlook, the building is a perfect union of agricultural and contemporary<br />

design. A 30-foot pitched roof supported by gorgeous Douglas Fir timbers<br />

creates a stunning workspace for the crafting of fine spirits. Germanmade<br />

copper Christian Carl stills are proudly displayed in an all-glass<br />

front facade. Consistent with its environmental mission, the distillery<br />

uses the latest conservation technology including radiant floors, heat<br />

exchangers and water reclamation.<br />

Tours & Tastings<br />

Available<br />

at the LCBO<br />

Vodkow<br />

(750 ml)<br />

$35.95<br />

Profiles of Excellence eatdrink 33<br />

Gingerbread White Russian Cocktail<br />

Fermented, Distilled & Bottled at:<br />

34 Industrial Drive, Almonte ON<br />

613-256-6136<br />

dairydistillery.com<br />

Enjoy a Vodkow sample at the distillery store.<br />

Free tours are available on request during opening<br />

hours (a tour takes about 15 minutes). You’ll also<br />

find Vodkow in two sizes and merchandise for sale.<br />

Shop online and have Vodkow sent right to your<br />

door. And show your support for the moovement<br />

with great Dairy Distillery gear and apparel!

34 | <strong>January</strong>/<strong>February</strong> <strong>2020</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Beer<br />

Expand Your Beer Palate<br />

Recommendations Outside the Average Comfort Zone<br />


Sipping a fine beverage isn’t just<br />

for fans of wine and whiskey.<br />

Many beer drinkers are moving on<br />

from quaffing the mild tastes of<br />

cream ales, ambers, and lagers in favour of<br />

savouring the tastes of patiently-brewed<br />

craft beers.<br />

From wax seals covering bottle caps, to<br />

walls of bourbon or wine barrels, to the<br />

Flanders Red by Forked River, London<br />

— Available in vintages from 2016, 2017 and<br />

2018, Flanders Red is a Flemish-style beer<br />

aged in wine barrels. It has flavours of black<br />

sourcing of intriguing hops, there are many<br />

tip-offs as to what constitutes a beer meant to<br />

be enjoyed with contemplation.<br />

Generally, these beers have a higher alcohol<br />

content and are dark. In other cases, sourcing<br />

of new or rare-to-Canada varieties of hops<br />

makes them intriguing. Frequently, these are<br />

seasonals, meaning once the batch is sold out it<br />

will be unavailable for a year or more.<br />

cherries, plums and red currants. It’s strong<br />

in alcohol at 7.3 per cent, but not quite the<br />

beastly Reforest Kelly, another Forked River<br />

sipper which measured 11.5 per cent alcohol.

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Flanders Red — the style<br />

has been dubbed “the<br />

Burgundy of Belgium”<br />

— is quite sour and,<br />

while its appeal<br />

among beer drinkers<br />

is limited, those who<br />

like it like it a lot.<br />

Burton Ale by Anderson Craft Ales, London<br />

— Do you enjoy checking out lesser-known<br />

beer styles? Anderson has been known to<br />

unearth several for its annual beer festival<br />

(Kentucky Common, anyone?).<br />

Burton ale is a style named for<br />

Burton-on-Trent, England,<br />

which was once a leading<br />

brewing centre in the U.K.<br />

Think balanced and<br />

bready. Anderson’s<br />

version is 5.2 per<br />

cent alcohol.<br />

Reunion 1st Solera Vintage by Cowbell<br />

Brewing, Blyth — This is Cowbell’s risktaking<br />

blended beer. Cowbell is blending beers<br />

and releasing the aged results each year at the<br />

end of November. This first release from the<br />

distinctive<br />

matte black<br />

tank sitting<br />

next to the<br />

Cowbell bar<br />

is a blend of<br />

barley wine<br />

and imperial stout. Available in conditioned<br />

bottles at the Cowbell store, Reunion can<br />

be cellared for years. The taste is not for the<br />

meek.<br />

Steampunk Sour by Railway City<br />

Brewing, St. Thomas — While Railway City<br />

seems to be tilting towards<br />

approachable, broad<br />

appeal beers, Steampunk<br />

Sour is different.<br />

There are flavours of<br />

blackberries and dark<br />

cherries, and it’s the<br />

tartness, not the meagre<br />

4 per cent alcohol, which<br />

makes this more of a sipper<br />

and less of a beer to quaff.<br />

<strong>January</strong>/<strong>February</strong> <strong>2020</strong> | 35<br />

Dark Side Chocolate Stout by Upper<br />

Thames Brewing, Woodstock — Rich<br />

and delicious, Dark Side is aged on roasted<br />

chocolate nibs from the<br />

Ivory Coast via Woodstock’s<br />

Habitual Chocolate. It’s<br />

not just a post-dinner<br />

beer or a pair-mewith-ice-cream<br />

choice. Dark Side<br />

also pairs wonderfully<br />

with the creamy Dark<br />

Side of the Moo cheese<br />

from Gunn’s Hill. Not<br />

coincidentally, that cheese has<br />

been soaked for four days in Dark Side.<br />

40210 Coffee Blonde by Refined Fool,<br />

Sarnia — This may be a first. Coffee-infused<br />

beers are everywhere, but with dark stouts,<br />

not crushable blondes. Refined Fool<br />

used beans from Ground<br />

Up Roastery in Sarnia<br />

for what sounds on<br />

paper to be the craft<br />

beer version of a<br />

Tim Horton’s coffee.<br />

The name is a nod<br />

to Sarnia’s two main<br />


36 | <strong>January</strong>/<strong>February</strong> <strong>2020</strong><br />

B’Urban Legend Oatmeal Stout by London<br />

Brewing — Aged in<br />

bourbon barrels, a fresh<br />

batch of this returning<br />

beer was released in<br />

December. Oatmeal<br />

stouts are a popular<br />

style at craft<br />

breweries. The use<br />

of oatmeal provides<br />

a smooth, rich body to the stout.<br />

Rolling in the DIPA by Storm Stayed,<br />

London — What’s a list of quality beers to<br />

sip without a double IPA? Rolling in the DIPA<br />

comes in at a staggering 68 IBU and is a strong<br />

8.2 per cent alcohol. Double IPAs crank up<br />

the hop content to twice or more the usual<br />

amount,<br />

creating a<br />

glorious<br />

taste<br />

experience<br />

for hopheads<br />

who’ve become bored with regular<br />

IPAs. For others, double IPAs like this are best<br />

paired with a glass of water.<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Soos’ Juices by Natterjack Brewing, West<br />

Lorne — Unusual in that<br />

this strong, 9 per cent<br />

alcohol, uses so-called<br />

chocolate malt (named for<br />

its colour, not its flavour)<br />

to bring a nutty flavour to<br />

the beer.<br />

Tail Feather by Black<br />

Swan, Stratford — Tail Feather is an India<br />

brown ale. Think of it as a<br />

marriage between a familiar<br />

IPA and a brown ale, both<br />

hoppy and malty. The<br />

Black Swan version is 6<br />

per cent alcohol and in IPA<br />

territory with a bitterness<br />

measurement of 43 IBU. Tasting<br />

notes refer to chestnut and burnt sugar.<br />

Dingman Dark Lager by<br />

Hamlet Hall, Stratford —<br />

Featuring local Midnight<br />

Wheat Malt, Dingman Dark<br />

Lager, aka Schwartzbier, is<br />

earthy, smooth and crisp.<br />

It’s 5.6 per cent alcohol and<br />


Plus get your own car cleaned and detailed!<br />

eatdrink &<br />

Presented by<br />

Enter by going to eatdrink.ca/contests<br />

Contest ends <strong>February</strong> 24, <strong>2020</strong>. Complete details online.<br />

Congratulations Steve Northey,<br />

winner of our November/December Draw!

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

the anti-IPA, with only token hop bitterness.<br />

German-inspired, the name is a nod to the<br />

former publisher of the local daily newspaper in<br />

whose old building Hamlet Hall now operates.<br />

Galactic Golden Imperial Wheat by<br />

Toboggan Brewing and Powerhouse<br />

Brewing, London — Gone? Coming back?<br />

We’re not certain Galactic will be available<br />

by the time beer fans read this list. This<br />

intriguing collaboration between two of<br />

London’s craft brewers was<br />

first poured midfall.<br />

This style-bender is 9 per cent alcohol<br />

with a tropical fruit taste thanks to Galaxy<br />

and Mosaic hops. There’s a hint of bitterness,<br />

but mostly this one’s about the malt.<br />

GEORGE MACKE is a Londoner with a passion for<br />

craft beer.<br />

NEW<br />

WINTER<br />

MENU<br />


HALF PRICE Sharing Plates & Oysters<br />

Tuesday–Friday from 3:30–5:30pm<br />


20% OFF!<br />

Join us for Londonlicious! Jan 10–Feb 2<br />

TUES–SAT Lunch & Dinner 11:30am to Close<br />

SUNDAY Brunch 11am & Dinner<br />

449 Wharncliffe Road South<br />


38 | <strong>January</strong>/<strong>February</strong> <strong>2020</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Wine<br />

Baby, It’s Cold Outside<br />

Local Red Wines to Warm You Up<br />


The Christmas tree has been taken<br />

down and you have put all the<br />

ornaments away in boxes for<br />

another year. The holidays are over<br />

and baby, it’s cold outside. Days are short,<br />

nights are long and for the next few months<br />

we will all be longing for those hot summer<br />

days when we have that glass of crisp,<br />

refreshing white wine in our hands.<br />

For many of us there is a seasonality to the<br />

type of wine we drink. More white wines in<br />

the summer, and red wines in the winter. In<br />

the winter months, we crave comfort wines<br />

— big, bold, and complex red wines that<br />

stimulate our taste buds.<br />

Merlots, cabernets, pinot noirs and<br />

other red blends offer what we are seeking<br />

during the winter doldrums. Here for your<br />

consideration are some must-sip reds from<br />

our local wineries.<br />

Pelee Island<br />

Lighthouse<br />

Cabernet Franc<br />

(LCBO# 145441,<br />

$13.95) — Did<br />

you know that<br />

cabernet franc<br />

and sauvignon<br />

blanc are the<br />

parent grapes<br />

to Cabernet<br />

Sauvignon?<br />

This cab franc<br />

from Pelee<br />

Island Winery<br />

is a<br />

tasty<br />

valuepriced<br />

wine<br />

that<br />

delivers<br />

a<br />

good<br />

bang for<br />

the buck! Red<br />

cherry fruit with<br />

a hint of green pepper<br />

notes. Juicy, mediumbodied<br />

and, while the finish is<br />

dry, the fruit offers an impression<br />

of sweetness. Very easy drinking on<br />

its own, or<br />

consider pairing<br />

with burgers or a<br />

hearty winter dish such as<br />

meatballs in tomato sauce.

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Lifting Spirits and Sales<br />

CREW Cabernet Franc 2016 (VINTAGES#<br />

315945, $22.95) — I’ve probably said this<br />

before, but it is worth mentioning again.<br />

The red wines from Colchester Ridge Estate<br />

Winery (CREW) are always superior.<br />

You cannot go wrong picking up<br />

any of the red wines, and this one<br />

does not disappoint. It is a very<br />

complex cab franc. Ripe red berry<br />

fruits, baking spices, turned earth,<br />

leather, and vanilla notes. The<br />

alcohol content approaches 14%<br />

giving the wine a full-bodied<br />

mouthfeel and the acidity is<br />

very crisp and cleansing. While<br />

you might not be able to fire up<br />

the BBQ for a few months, this<br />

cab franc will pair well with a<br />

grilled steak or Sunday roast and<br />

potatoes.<br />

Niagara’s Finest Small Batch<br />

Wine, Beer and Cider Products<br />

inspiirit.ca<br />

Tina Roberts<br />

troberts@inspiirit.ca<br />

Our Wine, Your CREW<br />

The new CREW Winery & Gallery is officially open!<br />

The tasting bar is open year round, and a new galley<br />

lunch menu launches March 4. Taste local wines, see<br />

original art, and take in our vineyard views.<br />

Colchester Ridge Estate Winery<br />

108 Essex County Road 50, Harrow ON<br />

519-738-9800<br />


40 | <strong>January</strong>/<strong>February</strong> <strong>2020</strong><br />

Cooper’s Hawk 2017 Cabernet Franc<br />

(LCBO# 585950, $19.95) — This is an LCBO<br />

general list wine that can be found<br />

in the Ontario VQA wine section<br />

of many LCBO’s. The 2017 vintage<br />

of this wine can now be found on<br />

the shelf and this is the one you<br />

should pick if given the choice<br />

between the 2016 or 2017 vintage.<br />

Ripe red berry fruits, spice,<br />

herbs, and exotic violet flowers.<br />

Mouth watering acidity is a good<br />

indication that this wine is very<br />

food-friendly. Medium plus firm<br />

tannins suggest that you could<br />

also cellar this one for a few<br />

years, if you can resist<br />

the temptation to<br />

open sooner. Consider<br />

pairing with roast pork,<br />

beef tenderloin or lamb.<br />

Pelee Island Pinot Noir (LCBO#<br />

135939, $14.95) — Pelee Island<br />

Winery makes a few different<br />

pinot noirs at different price<br />

points. After the Christmas<br />

holidays it is time to buckle<br />

down and become a little more<br />

budget-conscious, as all those<br />

bills start rolling in. For a pinot<br />

noir priced under $15 this one is<br />

an excellent value<br />

Pelee Island Baco Noir (LCBO#<br />

485128, $12.95) — Baco noir is a French<br />

American hybrid red wine grape<br />

that is very winter-hardy and grows<br />

well in cool climate regions such as<br />

Ontario, Nova Scotia, New York,<br />

and Michigan. Deep dark purple,<br />

almost inky in colour, black berry<br />

and plum fruits, smoky notes and<br />

high acidity. Baco has a rustic<br />

quality and can be kind of edgy.<br />

But when made right, it is very<br />

fruity and lush. Pelee’s baco noir<br />

delivers and is worthy of opening<br />

on one of these cold winter<br />

evenings.<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Viewpointe Estate Cabernet<br />

Merlot (LCBO# 220723, $13,95)<br />

— When this red blend from<br />

Viewpointe Estate Winery in Lake<br />

Erie North Shore first appeared<br />

on the shelf at the LCBO it is was<br />

$12.95. Some seven or eight years<br />

later it is only a dollar more. That<br />

beats the rate of inflation. This<br />

wine drinks more like a twentydollar<br />

red blend. It is an excellent<br />

value. Red cherry, blueberry, and<br />

plum fruit notes, black earth<br />

and saddle leather. That’s a lot of<br />

complexity in a fourteen-dollar<br />

bottle of wine!<br />

Sprucewood Shores Estate Winery<br />

Warm ‘n’ Cozy Mulled Wine (LCBO#<br />

348524, $11.95) — And finally, a wine<br />

that will keep you warm and cozy<br />

in the winter. Mulled wine origins<br />

can be traced back to the United<br />

Kingdom. Basically, the recipe for<br />

mulled wine is to mix one large<br />

cupful of water for every half<br />

litre of wine, adding sugar and<br />

spice to taste. The spices usually<br />

used for mulled wine are cloves,<br />

grated nutmeg, and cinnamon.<br />

The concoction is usually heated<br />

before serving. Sprucewood<br />

Shores Estate Winery has taken<br />

most the work out of the mix<br />

and suggests that you empty<br />

the bottle into a pot and warm<br />

to your preference. Garnish with<br />

cinnamon sticks or a slice of orange. That will<br />

warm you up!<br />


Certified Sommelier who loves to talk,<br />

taste, and write about wine. He shares his<br />

tasting notes on EssexWineReview.com

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>January</strong>/<strong>February</strong> <strong>2020</strong> | 41<br />

The BUZZ<br />

Culinary Community Notes<br />

New and Notable<br />

London<br />

We recently attended the Pillar Nonprofit Network<br />

Community Innovation Awards, where all finalists<br />

are inspiring and deserving of recognition.<br />

Community Innovation Award finalists included<br />

Human Environment Analysis Lab (HEAL) at<br />

Western University, 519 Pursuit (a non-profit<br />

helping the homeless) and the winner, the<br />

London Food Coalition (consisting of 23 agencies<br />

invested in food security and eliminating food<br />

waste). 519 Pursuit went on to win the Community<br />

Choice Award. Urban Roots (a non-profit that<br />

revitalizes underused land for agriculture in the<br />

City of London, producing high-quality organic<br />

vegetables and herbs which are distributed directly<br />

to consumers and social enterprises) won the<br />

Community Impact Award. Several of the finalists<br />

were lauded for their work in recognizing food<br />

security, and all for supporting our community’s<br />

most vulnerable citizens. All of these essential<br />

initiatives deserve our support.<br />

The London Wine & Food Show is ready to pop<br />

some corks in celebration of its 15th anniversary!<br />

Thursday, <strong>January</strong> 16 to Saturday, <strong>January</strong> 18 at the<br />

Western Fair District Agriplex. Tickets are now on<br />

sale. westernfairdistrict.com<br />

Located just west of London’s downtown core and<br />

its namesake Blackfriars Bridge, Betty Heydon’s<br />

Blackfriars Bistro is within walking distance of the<br />

core but, in Heydon’s words, “away from the hustle<br />

and bustle.” Located in one of London’s heritage<br />

neighbourhoods, the restaurant draws a loyal<br />

clientele for the innovative, farm-to-table inspired<br />

cuisine. Many know the restaurant not only for<br />

its stellar bistro dining but also for personalized<br />

catering services. 46 Blackfriars Street, London,<br />

519-667-4930, blackfriarsbistro.com<br />

London Brewing cares deeply about the quality of<br />

its ingredients and the sustainability of its products.<br />

It is one of two Certified Organic craft breweries in<br />

Ontario and one of less than 20 in all of Canada.<br />

London Brewing is a democratic enterprise owned<br />

by its employee members — they seek to create<br />

great beer, good jobs, and to have a positive impact<br />

on their community. 521 Burbrook Place, London,<br />

226-667-6363, londonbrewing.ca<br />

Petit Paris Crêperie & Pâtisserie is proud to<br />

announce that its sister company, The Coop<br />

Rotisserie, has a second location. The Coop Express<br />

drive through/takeout restaurant features such<br />

items as mouth-watering rotisserie chicken,<br />

sandwiches, hand-cut fries, mac ‘n’ cheese, soups,<br />

quiche and healthy salads from the Covent Garden<br />

Market location. 1146 Commissioners Rd E.<br />

Justin and Gregg Wolfe have opened Holy Diver,<br />

on the site of the former Nite Owl, next to the<br />

Early Bird Diner on Talbot between King and<br />

Exceptional Food. Outstanding Service.<br />


During Londonlicious (Jan.10-Feb 2) THE RHINO LOUNGE BAKERY | COFFEE SHOPPE<br />

The River Room is open for<br />

Regular LUNCH Hours and open for<br />

www.northmoore.ca | www.theriverroom.ca<br />

DINNER Thurs, Fri & Sat Nights 519.850.2287 River Room | 519.850.5111 NMC /Rhino Lounge

42 | <strong>January</strong>/<strong>February</strong> <strong>2020</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

York Street. Smack dab in the middle of Wortley<br />

Village, Wolfepack Company Bar is located next<br />

door to the premises that now houses the popular<br />

breakfast spot Little Bird. The Company Bar is<br />

accessible, welcoming and convivial with inspired<br />

cuisine that includes house-made charcuterie<br />

and small batches of seasonal or artisanal items.<br />

Quantities are limited to maintain a high level of<br />

quality. The resto seats about 60 customers, and<br />

will include two patios, one seating an additional<br />

45 patrons with another additional 30 seats at the<br />

100% Local — from Our Farmers to Your Table<br />

Hormone & Drug-Free<br />

Ontario Beef, Pork, Bison, Lamb & Chicken<br />





• Metzger Meat Products • Lena’s Lamb<br />

• Blanbrook Bison Farm • Little Sisters Chicken<br />

• Glengyle Farm Organics<br />

The Market at Western Fair District: SAT 8–3; SUN 10–2<br />

226-376-6328 • www.thevillagemeatshop.ca<br />

More than just a Coffee Shop!<br />

Keto Sweets, Bagels,<br />

Soup, Bulletproof Coffee<br />

& Even Homemade<br />

Keto Ice Cream!<br />

front of the restaurant. The menu is reminiscent<br />

of the best of the Wolfe of Wortley — but scaleddown.<br />

We are long-time fans of Chef Kyle Rose’s<br />

salumi underpinned by technique and skill and<br />

lots of deep flavours and good fat content. There is<br />

Coppa Cotta Carpaccio (salt-cured from the pig’s<br />

neck) with truffle, cremini mushroom, arugula and<br />

Manchego cheese. Other snacks include creamy<br />

chicken liver mousse and chicken fried mushrooms<br />

with hen of the woods (maitake), beer and Cheddar<br />

dip. The more extensive menu includes other<br />

house-made salumi items such as Lamb Prosciutto,<br />

Bone Marrow and Sunchokes with honey-garlic<br />

sunflower seeds and scallions. 145 Wortley Road,<br />

226-663-4567. The Wolfe brothers are anticipating<br />

the opening of Through Thick and Thin, an Old<br />

South pizzeria, in <strong>February</strong>.<br />

The organic and Mexican-inspired Ivanopoblano<br />

Restaurant opened in November to rave reviews.<br />

Specialties include quesadillas, huevos rancheros,<br />

corn-bean tacos and grilled cheese sandwiches.<br />

Ivan Santana-Barnes has been serving some of<br />

London’s best organic Latin-inspired food for the<br />

last four years from his food truck, and recently<br />

opened the compact but charming Ivanopoblano<br />

Restaurant at the corner of Wharncliffe and Emery<br />

Street with his partner. 390 Wharncliffe Road, 226-<br />

238-0868, ivanopoblano.com<br />

Owners Ricardo Cavaco from Bifana Boys and<br />

Chris Bunting from Goodah Gastrotruck are<br />

opening Out of the Deep Seafood Co. at The Market<br />

at Western Fair, featuring ethically-sourced and<br />

sustainable fresh fish and seafood.<br />

Petojo Food & Catering recently launched a new<br />

virtual restaurant, Rasa Indonesia. Chef Anthony<br />

Abdullah and co-founder Kimi Abdullah have<br />

developed a menu featuring popular Javanese<br />

and Balinese dishes. It includes traditional fare<br />

PATIO<br />

OPEN!<br />

Gluten-free<br />

Keto Charcuterie!<br />

Private Event<br />

Space<br />

Our Famous Dill Pickle Soup<br />

(All Soups Now Gluten-free!)<br />

Keto Christmas Toffee Pecan Baking<br />

Bars<br />

Pour Over Coffee Bar Open 7 Days a Week<br />

creambeanerycafe.com<br />

New 2nd Location!<br />

22469 Adelaide Rd, Mt Brydges<br />

226-490-0301<br />

825 Southdale Rd W, London<br />


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

found at street stalls and countryside “warungs,”<br />

including nasi goreng (fried rice), mie goreng (fried<br />

noodles), beef rendang, shrimp laksa, soto mie<br />

bakso (meatball noodle soup) and lumpia (spring<br />

roll). In keeping with the company’s inclusive<br />

dining philosophy, the menu includes vegan and<br />

gluten-free options. The Abdullahs have responded<br />

with this online service to the popularity of their<br />

offerings at their weekend booth at The Market<br />

at Western Fair District. The menu is available<br />

through online ordering and delivery platforms.<br />

petojofood.com/rasa-delivery<br />

Locomotive Espresso, a locally-owned espresso<br />

bar, is expanding its five-year-old business with a<br />

second location in the Old South neighbourhood.<br />

Locomotive Espresso South will be brewing<br />

espresso-based beverages using Mod Bar/La<br />

Marzocco equipment, an under-counter system<br />

with above counter taps. The modular formation<br />

will create an open bar look, and its design offers<br />

excellent interaction and engagement with<br />

customers. Locomotive Espresso’s professionallytrained<br />

baristas are excited to introduce the<br />

latest in world-class coffees, brew methods, and<br />

equipment to the London community. Locomotive<br />

Espresso South forecasts its new location at 350<br />

Ridout Street South will open in <strong>February</strong>.<br />

Tina Roberts at InSpiirit represents some of<br />

Niagara’s hottest small-batch wines, beers, and<br />

ciders. She also provides curation services that<br />

bring the best of Niagara food and wine together,<br />

from menu pairing and planning, to catering and<br />

event consulting. Growing up in Niagara-on-thelake<br />

has given Tina such an appreciation for all<br />

the region has to offer that having the opportunity<br />

to share a taste of Niagara with her customers<br />

is a dream come true. She moved to London as a<br />

job recruiter but instead of matching people to<br />

employers, she’s now matching craft beer, wine<br />

and cider to restaurant menus, always with an eye<br />

to lifting spirits and the bottom line. Whether you<br />

are looking to up your bar game, or throw a unique<br />

party experience, put her passion for all things<br />

Niagara to work! inspiirit.ca<br />

Lunch at The River Room at Museum London, with<br />

Chef Jeff Fortner and his team features Pan Roasted<br />

Salmon, miso-honey sauce, soba noodles, scallion,<br />

julienned carrot and tomato. East Coast Lobster<br />

Roll with celery, scallion, mayo and topsider bun<br />

is a signature offering. House-cured Smoked Trout<br />

with toasted naan, house crackers, crème fraiche<br />

and accoutrements is a classic. Pastry Chef Michele<br />

“a gastronomical landmark for over 23 years”<br />

Booking NOW for<br />

Valentine’s Day!<br />

<strong>February</strong> 14<br />

Bistro & Catering<br />

Chef-driven Farm-to-Table Cuisine<br />

Dietary Needs Accommodated<br />

Ample Free Lunch Parking Mon–Fri<br />

Available for Private Dinner Parties Mon–Sat<br />

Gift Certificates Available<br />

46 Blackfriars Street, London | 519-667-4930<br />

blackfriarsbistro.com<br />

Make HAPPINESS<br />

a part of your day.

where art is<br />

Hey, Cupcake! a piece of cake<br />

The ORIGINAL<br />



BAKERY<br />

ASK US Custom Bakery • Walk-In Orders Available<br />


“RANDOM<br />

ACTS OF<br />



www.heycupcake.ca<br />

1305 Riverbend Road, Suite 110<br />

519-433-CAKE (2253)<br />

STORE HOURS: Mon–Fri 11–7<br />

Saturday 10–5 • Sunday 11–4<br />

Traditional, Real Food.<br />

Real Good!<br />

Try our world famous Goulash Soup, Cabbage Rolls,<br />

Schnitzel, Chicken Paprikash, a Combination Platter, or<br />

many other mouthwatering Hungarian dishes.<br />

Gift<br />

Certificates<br />

Available<br />

519-652-9696<br />

aranka.ca<br />

aranka.csarda arankacsarda<br />

7447 Longwoods Road, London<br />

Our beautiful country setting is on Longwoods, the continuation of<br />

Wharncliffe Road, just outside Lambeth<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Lenhardt brings dessert offerings to a whole new<br />

level at both the Rhino Lounge and the River Room.<br />

Try the River Room’s signature Vanilla Bean Crème<br />

Brûlée and the Rhino’s popular Cronut Thursdays.<br />

There are over a dozen dishes on the Sunday<br />

Brunch prix fixe menu ($28), including a classic<br />

Cobb Salad with grilled chicken, bacon, blue cheese,<br />

hard-boiled egg and chopped tomato & cucumbers.<br />

Try the outstanding Maitake & Potato Skillet with<br />

boudin blanc, leeks, zucchini, a fried egg and toast.<br />

Museum London, 421 Ridout Street, 519-850-2287<br />

theriverroom.ca<br />

Forest City Experiences teaches you the history<br />

of the founding of the Covent Garden Market and<br />

points out some of the more interesting facts that<br />

only a true insider will know. Enjoy the Covent<br />

Garden Market and surrounding area with a wellknown<br />

chef and a friendly culinary expert. Meet at<br />

the Market Square entrance (across from Budweiser<br />

Gardens) and you’ll have a personal introduction to<br />

the Market’s culinary offerings and its passionate<br />

vendors. Eat and drink from a minimum of five<br />

unique spots, which may include an international<br />

foods vendor, cheesemonger, butcher, artisanal<br />

baker, small-batch coffee roaster or chocolatier.<br />

By the end of this progressive tasting experience,<br />

you’ll have sampled a series of offerings that add<br />

up to an authentic expression of Covent Garden’s<br />

culinary scene. This three-hour gastro experience<br />

will end with a cooking class using seasonal and<br />

locally-sourced ingredients, upstairs in the Market<br />

Kitchen. We promise you’ll leave at the end of the<br />

tour satiated and feeling like a local, having learned<br />

about the culinary hot spots in and around the<br />

Market. Available dates are <strong>January</strong> 4, <strong>January</strong> 17<br />

and 24. forestcityculinaryexperiences.ca<br />

Experiential Tourism is based on developing<br />

experiences that allow visitors to use all their<br />

senses and interact in a hands-on approach<br />

within a region’s culture. An experiential tourism<br />

destination provides opportunities for visitors<br />

to make deeper connections to regional food<br />

stories and become interactively immersed in the<br />

local culture guided by knowledgeable insiders.<br />

Recently, the third edition of “Unlocked and<br />

Inspired” represented the first time this tourism<br />

development training occurred in an urban setting.<br />

With the help of Ontario’s Southwest and Tourism<br />

London’s community team, a number of willing<br />

and ready partners emerged, prepared to launch<br />

new experiences to the marketplace in <strong>2020</strong>.<br />

These experience partners include a collaboration

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

of North Moore Catering, The River Room and<br />

Rhino Lounge at Museum London, Growing Chefs!<br />

Ontario, the London Clay Art Centre, and the Old<br />

East Village BIA which partnered with multiple<br />

community stakeholders.<br />

As a result of “Unlocked and Inspired,” North Moore<br />

Catering, The River Room and Rhino Lounge at<br />

Museum London now offer private team building<br />

and corporate culinary experiences for groups.<br />

These experiences can be created on an individual<br />

basis and tailored to meet the needs of each group,<br />

be they team-building or pure entertainment.<br />

All experiences are fully customizable and can<br />

be adjusted to suit your group’s experience<br />

and interests. The 3-hour, newly developed,<br />

Gastronomy Meets Art: Hunger Games at the Forks<br />

of the Thames experience features an art-themed,<br />

mystery box cooking challenge and a scavenger<br />

hunt through Museum London’s art collection.<br />

The River Room and Rhino Lounge chefs design<br />

a multi-course meal inspired by paintings in<br />

Museum London’s art collection, highlighting local,<br />

seasonal ingredients.<br />

Wich is Wich has relocated to Wellington St., south<br />

of Oxford (once Willie’s Café), serving the same<br />

great food (global flavours, exotic ingredients,<br />

and textural contrasts). Not just serving gourmet<br />

sandwiches, it’s taking comfort food to a whole<br />

new level. Chef Josh Sawyer calls it “home style.”<br />

Locally sourced whenever possible, meals are<br />

crafted from hearty artisan bread, slow-roasted<br />

meats, garden-fresh vegetables, gourmet spreads<br />

and sauces. Weekend brunch (served both days),<br />

lunch, and dinner menus (Tuesday to Saturday) are<br />

completely different. Pair dishes with great wines,<br />

local beers and cocktails. Wich is Wich also offers<br />

catering and grab-and-go. 731 Wellington St., 519-<br />

860-9424, wichiswich.ca<br />

<strong>January</strong>/<strong>February</strong> <strong>2020</strong> | 45<br />

The London Clay Art Centre (LCAC) is the only<br />

guild-owned and operated education centre<br />

dedicated to the clay arts in Canada. It provides<br />

high-quality programming, nurtures the<br />

development of novice and professional clay<br />

artists, collaborates with other community<br />

organizations and encourages fellowship in an<br />

inclusive and accessible facility in the Old East<br />

Village. It is a supporter and advocate of Empty<br />

Bowls, an annual fundraiser that supports food<br />

banks, soup kitchens and other worthwhile<br />

LUNCH Wed to Fri 11:30–2:30<br />

DINNER from 5pm daily<br />

432 Richmond Street<br />

at Carling • London<br />

ALWAYS<br />

a 3-course prix fixe<br />

menu option<br />

www.davidsbistro.ca<br />

Exciting NEW<br />

Food Menu<br />

Launching<br />

<strong>January</strong> 17th!<br />

Valentine’s<br />

Afternoon Tea<br />

<strong>February</strong> 9<br />

(12:30 pm seating)<br />

{<br />

4 Weeks to Flourish<br />

}<br />

March 5–26 (4 Thursdays)<br />

Reserve Your Spot!<br />

268 Piccadilly Street (at Wellington)<br />

519-601-TEAS (8327) • tealoungelondon.com<br />

WED & THURS 11am-6pm • FRI & SAT 11am-9pm • SUN 12-5pm

46 | <strong>January</strong>/<strong>February</strong> <strong>2020</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

initiatives to combat hunger and address food<br />

insecurity. Each year, local clay artists make up to<br />

700 unique bowls. Ticket buyers choose the bowl<br />

to take home and enjoy a simple meal of soup and<br />

bread donated by local restaurants. The proceeds<br />

of Empty Bowls go to a worthy local organization<br />

addressing food insecurity. LCAC has incorporated<br />

the Empty Bowls initiative into its experience,<br />

The Humble Lump. Go behind the scenes with a<br />

hands-on and fully immersive experience that<br />

includes trying your hand at slipping, joining and<br />


11am−2pm<br />

Open 7 Days a Week<br />

Mon/Tues 11:30-10, Wed/Thurs 11:30-11, Fri/Sat 11:30-12, Sun 11-10<br />

carving your own bowl. This experience includes a<br />

heart-warming lunch and an inspiriting community<br />

narrative by enthusiastic, talented artists and<br />

storytellers. londonclayartcentre.org<br />

Food, Fire, Feast! A Healthy Diet Means a Healthy<br />

Planet emphasizes food literacy as a tourism goal.<br />

Food literacy means a person’s ability to correctly<br />

read food labels and Canada’s Food Guide, and<br />

the aptitude to comprehend essential nutrition<br />

well enough to apply that knowledge to food<br />

preparation. Food literacy includes understanding<br />

how food is grown and produced, where it<br />

originates, how production affects the environment,<br />

and who has access to what types of foods. Based<br />

on the idea that education can alter behaviour,<br />

Growing Chefs! Ontario’s dedicated team and<br />

passionate volunteers have made tremendous<br />

strides by changing the way children and their<br />

families perceive food. Growing Chefs is a social<br />

enterprise, without peer in Ontario, delivering<br />

innovative and impactful childhood learning<br />

programming. The winning team at Growing Chefs!<br />

creates a high energy atmosphere with several<br />

prep and cooking stations for seasonal, hands-on<br />

activities with ingredients both foraged and from<br />

their teaching garden, guided by expert chefs.<br />

The Spirit of Old East Village experience, crafted<br />

by Jen Pastorius of the Old East Village BIA, will<br />

offer surprises and mystery in a prohibition-themed<br />

two-hour walking experience. This experience<br />

allows participants to meet and interact with area<br />

storytellers and partnered local enthusiasts while<br />

visiting unexpected neighbourhood hot spots<br />

and participate in hands-on activities. There is a<br />

customizable component that can feature a unique<br />

Old East Village dining experience. All of which<br />

speaks to the power of collaboration, community<br />

and excellent storytelling by locals.<br />

garlicsoflondon.com<br />

481 Richmond Street<br />

519.432.4092<br />


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

The Nigerian-inspired YaYa’s Kitchen offers a<br />

monthly pop-up street-food experience at the<br />

London Food Incubator. 630 Dundas Street,<br />

319-3436, facebook.com/pages/category/<br />

Local-Business/yayas-kitchen-London-<br />

Ontario-367184394035958/<br />

Donald and Nora Yuriaan’s charming Indonesianinspired<br />

Dragonfly Bistro has changed hands.<br />

The friendly new owners have turned the 14-seat<br />

restaurant into a casual Viet-Thai takeaway serving<br />

items such as Fresh Rolls, Mango Salad, Pkuet Pad<br />

Thai and Thai Red Curry. 715 Richmond Street, 519-<br />

858-8888, dragonflypadthai.ca<br />

Chef Logan Withers, formerly of Abruzzi Ristorante<br />

and Toronto’s acclaimed Canis, will be leading<br />

the culinary team at Chef Dave Lamers and<br />

Rob D’Amico’s eagerly anticipated new Taverna<br />

13Thirtyone on Hyde Park Road. Lamers tells us<br />

“Taverna” is expected to open early <strong>February</strong> <strong>2020</strong>.<br />

1331 Hyde Park Road, taverna1331.ca<br />

Michelle Pierce-Hamilton announced an exciting<br />

new collaboration with Chef Josh Sawyer that<br />

brings a brand new menu to The Tea Lounge.<br />

Launching <strong>January</strong> 17, the menu will boast creative<br />

offerings such as soups, salads and sandwich<br />

entrées — flavourful, delicious, whole food,<br />

plant-based — with flare. The Tea Lounge will be<br />

serving this new lunch menu daily and will expand<br />

into weekend dinners. The Tea Lounge offers<br />

100+ sommelier-selected teas, lattes and French<br />

press coffee. Pierce-Hamilton continues to offer<br />

an array of classes, events, private bookings and<br />

experiences. 268 Piccadilly Street, 519-601-8327,<br />

tealoungelondon.com<br />

Score Pizza, a fast-casual pizza experience,<br />

recently opened in beautifully refurbished<br />

premises that formerly housed Kiss the Cook. The<br />

pizzeria offers fresh, quality, customizable pizza<br />

from a stone-fired oven in an open kitchen. There<br />

are gluten-free offerings and a wide selection<br />

of signature and seasonal toppings. Owner Joel<br />

Burnstein tells us that the official Grand Opening<br />

will commence the week of <strong>January</strong> 20. 551<br />

Richmond St., 519-601-8327, scorepizza.ca<br />

Stratford<br />

The Slow Food Perth County Sunday Market<br />

runs 10am–2pm indoors at downtown Festival<br />

Marketplace Mall until May, when it moves to the<br />

Market Square at City Hall. You’ll find local produce,<br />

bread, soup, sweets, soap, healthy treats, crafty<br />

Your love of all things Italian begins at<br />

Gift Cards<br />

Available<br />

Bring back “homemade”<br />

again with Marshall’s Pasta!<br />

519-652-7659 • HWY 401 & 4 • pastosgrill.com<br />

580 Adelaide St N, London<br />

519-672-7827<br />

Quality<br />

Convenient<br />

Meals<br />

Healthy Food the Whole<br />

Family Will Love!<br />

We use<br />

Enriched<br />

Durum<br />

Semolina Flour<br />

for all our pastas.<br />

3.5 grams of fibre per serving<br />

Plus NO SUGAR ADDED to our sauces.<br />

MON–FRI 9:30am–7pm • SAT 9:30am–5pm • SUN 11am–5pm<br />

Full menu available at marshallspastacatering.ca

“Reasonably priced, fresh, well-executed<br />

Ethiopian cuisine ...” — Bryan Lavery, <strong>Eatdrink</strong><br />

Gift<br />

Certificates<br />

Available<br />

$5<br />

16-oz Pints<br />

Thursdays<br />

Grand<br />

Marnier<br />

Trifle<br />

Blair Blvd<br />

London<br />

International<br />

Airport<br />


• Vegetarian &<br />

Vegan Options<br />

• Takeout<br />

• Catering<br />

ADDIS ABABA Restaurant<br />

Tuesday–Sunday 11am–10pm by reservation<br />

Closed Monday<br />

465 Dundas Street 519 433-4222<br />

www.tgsaddisababarestaurant.com<br />

Crumlin Rd<br />

Far Out ...<br />

but we like it that way!<br />

519-455-9005<br />

katanakafe.ca<br />

2530 Blair Blvd, London<br />

Diamond Flight Centre<br />

MON & TUES: Lunch 11–3<br />

WED, THURS & FRI: Lunch 11–5; Dinner 5–9<br />

Weekends: Breakfast 9–12, Lunch 12–3, Dinner 5–9<br />

Oxford St<br />

Book Your<br />

Valentine’s<br />

Table Now!<br />

½ Price<br />

Bottle of Wine<br />

Wednesdays<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

things, lacto-fermented foods, cheese, grass-fed<br />

meats and garden seeds. slowfoodperthcounty.ca<br />

Revival House menus offer modern Frenchstyle<br />

cuisine that expresses the depth of Perth<br />

County’s food culture. The chef-driven menus<br />

reveal a passion for using house-made, local and<br />

sustainable ingredients, showcasing the terroir and<br />

the best of what Ontario has to offer. High Tea and<br />

Sunday Brunch add yet another layer of temptation<br />

to the offerings. 70 Brunswick Street, Stratford,<br />

519-273-3424, revival.house<br />

The Planet Diner, located across from the Avon<br />

Theatre, is 1950’s Pop Diner meets Bettie Page with<br />

local pop art and polka dot wallpaper. Owner Dee<br />

Christensen says, “This is where herbivores can<br />

bring their carnivore friends.” With candy-apple<br />

red upholstered booths and classic 50s retro vibe,<br />

the 26-seat diner is warm and welcoming with<br />

enthusiastic and well-informed staff. Meat dishes<br />

are labelled for the carnivore, and other than the<br />

meat itself (or the eggs in the all-day breakfast),<br />

everything on the menu is 100% plant-based. 118<br />

Downie Street, 519-305-5888, theplanetdiner.com<br />

Nosh Mondays at The Red Rabbit are a way of<br />

celebrating each season, allowing each chef to let<br />

their talent and creativity shine. It is also a culinary<br />

adventure. Join them Mondays to April. Make your<br />

reservations early. 64 Wellington Street, Stratford,<br />

519-305-6464, redrabbitresto.com<br />

Hamlet Hall Brew Co. is a heritage-inspired brewery<br />

on Market Square in Stratford, incorporating local<br />

ingredients from the surrounding agricultural<br />

community. There is a welcoming, laid-back<br />

ambience; you can sip your beer beside the huge<br />

brewing vessels. Beer names are based on historical<br />

Stratford and area people and events. Workerowned,<br />

it is located in the recently renovated<br />

historic Herald Building, a former printing<br />

and newspaper office, and many Victorian-era<br />

architectural details remain. Brewmaster Jeff<br />

MacDonald’s favourite part of brewing is learning<br />

the science behind beer making. Head Brewer Jon<br />

Zippel’s strengths lie in recipe development and<br />

technical brewing. The Taproom features expertly<br />

poured pints, cans and growlers for purchase, and<br />

an exclusive pub-style menu prepared by The Hub<br />

kitchen team next door. They work with a variety<br />

of local vendors and suppliers to incorporate the<br />

freshest ingredients into seasonal menus that<br />

are sure to please a variety of palates. There is<br />

an innovative line of craft beers, accompanied

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

by delicious cocktails and wine designed to<br />

complement the cuisine. 21 Market Place, 519-508-<br />

1890, hamlethall.com<br />

Want to learn Cooking Fundamentals and the trade<br />

secrets of braising and stewing from the experts,<br />

or how to improve your knife skills? Stratford<br />

Chefs School Open Kitchen features a wide<br />

variety of hands-on cooking classes and learning<br />

opportunities for all home cooks and food lovers.<br />

stratfordchef.com/open-kitchen<br />

This winter Mercer Kitchen + Beer Hall + Hotel has<br />

added some comforting menu items, while retaining<br />

some tried and true signatures. The casual<br />

brasserie-style ambience is inspired by the concept<br />

of izakaya — informal Japanese beer pubs. There<br />

are 15 draft lines and over 120 bottles, including<br />

international award-winners and hard-to-find<br />

one-offs. Menus showcase items meant to be shared<br />

communally that are perfect for the lively, dynamic<br />

atmosphere.104-108 Ontario Street, 519-271-9202,<br />

mercerhall.ca<br />

Around the Region<br />

Feast ON-certified SixThirtyNine in Woodstock is an<br />

elegant and contemporary dining room of 30 seats.<br />

It welcomes guests to a tasteful and comfortable<br />

atmosphere. Front house service is headed by Chef<br />

Eric Boyar’s wife, Jennifer Boyar, and the emphasis<br />

is on unpretentious yet attentive and professional<br />

service. Zach Lebert directs the restaurant wine<br />

program, which features both high quality regional<br />

VQA wines and unique international wines. Wine<br />

selections change regularly to suit the menu.<br />

Additional seating is available for up to four<br />

guests at the Chef’s Table, providing guests with<br />

an up-close look at the talented kitchen crew in<br />

action. Service is often headed by Sous Chef Sam<br />

Vandenberg, who ensures guests at the Chef’s<br />

Table have an engaging and memorable experience.<br />

639 Peel Street, Woodstock, 519-536-9602,<br />

sixthirtynine.com<br />

Early Bird Coffee is a small-batch, wholesale<br />

coffee Roastery and café situated close to where<br />

the 401 and 403 meet in Woodstock, Ontario. It was<br />

established in 2018 by master roaster Elio Caporicci<br />

and his hospitable wife, Kate Caporicci. Their<br />

mission is simple: “To provide a world-class coffee<br />

experience by delivering the freshest, best-tasting<br />

small-batch coffee in the region.” They achieve this<br />

by using only ethically-sourced, premium beans,<br />

expertly roasted in Woodstock. The rustic, 1,200<br />

square foot Roastery has three areas: the Roastery/<br />


Book<br />

Now for<br />

Valentine’s Day!<br />


Booking Now for Valentine’s Day<br />

G R A C E R E S T A U R A N T<br />

farm-to-table fine dining downtown<br />

OPEN for LONDONLICIOUS Jan 10 – Feb 2<br />


eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />


519-565-2576<br />

LakeHouseofBayfield.com<br />

Open for<br />

Valentine’s<br />

Day<br />

Celebrations!<br />

<strong>February</strong> 14 & 15<br />

Always Available<br />

for Caterings!<br />

Closed for the Season.<br />

Reopening in March!<br />

Reservations Recommended.<br />

519.238.6224<br />

42 Ontario St. S., Grand Bend<br />

www.finearestaurant.com<br />

Coffee Lab, Café and a small retail space. Sit at<br />

one of the comfortable chairs and tables, or at the<br />

hand-built herringbone bar top, and revel in the<br />

welcoming ambience. There is a gold-tempered<br />

espresso machine for coffee-based specialty drinks<br />

such as lattes, cappuccinos, cortados and seasonal<br />

beverages. 815 Juliana Drive, Woodstock, 519-532-<br />

3127 earlybirdcoffee.ca<br />

James Eddington of the Feast ON-certified,<br />

Eddington’s of Exeter is known for his<br />

contemporary casual fine cooking with a rustic<br />

charm. Eddington’s favourite seasonal ingredients<br />

are those that are at their peak of freshness —<br />

fresh off of the vine, picked from the tree, foraged<br />

from the forest or dug up from the earth. The<br />

yellow brick Italianate-style mansion on Main<br />

Street stands out with its decorative bracket eaves,<br />

large bay windows and well-manicured lawn with<br />

mature maple trees. Eddington’s occupies the<br />

original Carling homestead (built in the 1870s), a<br />

designated historic landmark. There are twelvefoot<br />

ceilings both upstairs and down, well-spaced<br />

tables with lots of elbow room, and warm tones<br />

with a contemporary ambience bordering on<br />

elegant. 527 Main Street, Exeter, 519-235-3030,<br />

eddingtons.ca<br />

The culinary team at The Chilled Cork in Chatham<br />

offers a modern take on classic cuisine, using the<br />

freshest ingredients Southwestern Ontario has to<br />

offer and pairing them with exceptional quality<br />

steak, and seafood from around the globe. Whether<br />

you are looking for an intimate dinner for two, a<br />

casual business lunch, or a glass of wine at the<br />

end of the day, be prepared to relax and allow the<br />

attentive and friendly staff to take care of you.<br />

The bar offers draft beer, frozen cocktails, loaded<br />

Caesars and the best variety of scotch, spirits,<br />

wines and local craft beer. The restaurant is nestled<br />

within the Retro Suites Hotel’s century-old building<br />

on Chatham’s “retro block.” 22 William Street<br />

South, Chatham, 519-354-7818, chilledcork.ca<br />

Mamma Maria’s Ristorante is family-owned<br />

and operated, and is considered by many to be<br />

Chatham-Kent’s best Italian dining experience.<br />

Specializing in traditional Italian regionallyinspired<br />

food served in a relaxed and inviting<br />

atmosphere, this attractive venue offers a warm and<br />

hospitable respite. The dining room and bar feature<br />

warm interlocking stone tiles, red brick and stucco<br />

walls with murals and frescos, eclectic lighting<br />

fixtures and overhead fans. Tucked in the back is<br />

a stunning private dining area perfect for special

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

events, celebrations and parties. There is a wide<br />

variety of classic pizzas, bruschetta, kinds of pasta<br />

and risottos. The from-scratch kitchen is purist<br />

about its ingredients but not afraid to break Italian<br />

food rules, sometimes infusing more localized<br />

ingredients. 231 King St W, Chatham, 519-360-1600,<br />

mammamariasristorante.ca<br />

Wolfhead Distillery is leading the pack as the<br />

first premium craft distillery in Essex County<br />

since prohibition. Owners Tom and Sue Manherz,<br />

with Larry Girard, found themselves inspired by<br />

the local history of rum-running and prohibition<br />

after establishing a third-party bottling operation<br />

for companies looking to produce small-batch<br />

specialty spirit lines. That inspiration soon<br />

developed into building a premium craft distillery.<br />

Along with making premium spirits, Wolfhead<br />

features a restaurant and bar. Guests enjoy infused<br />

creative offerings as well as premium beverages<br />

while getting a glimpse into the world of distilling.<br />

Guided tours offer an in-depth explanation of<br />

the distilling process, and spirits enthusiasts can<br />

look forward to the full Wolfhead experience.<br />

drinkwolfhead.com<br />

The Village Teapot, owned and operated by Gaynor<br />

Deeks and Jana Yassine, is a delightful tea room<br />

in the heart of Ilderton. It is located in one of the<br />

oldest properties in the town, believed to be at<br />

least 145 years old, which retains many of its period<br />

features. Special Sunday Roast dates are <strong>January</strong><br />

26 for Roast Ham and <strong>February</strong> 23 for Roast Beef.<br />

There will be a special Valentine’s Day Afternoon<br />

Tea on <strong>February</strong> 15. Reservations will be required.<br />

It will be a festive afternoon to come together and<br />

enjoy savoury and sweet delights served on threetiered<br />

platters. 13257 Ilderton Road, Ilderton, 519-<br />

298-8327, thevillageteapot.ca<br />

The Benmiller Inn, nestled in the hamlet of<br />

Benmiller on the Maitland River, is an ideal setting<br />

for an Ontario weekend getaway, a romantic<br />

retreat, or a few restful days away from the city. The<br />

lovingly-restored 19th-century woollen and grist<br />

mill is secluded and peaceful, yet provides every<br />

modern convenience. Recreational opportunities<br />

range from the pure pleasure of a stroll through<br />

unspoiled countryside to fishing in the autumn<br />

and cross-country skiing in the winter. The<br />

Benmiller is just minutes from theatre, shopping,<br />

golf courses, and Lake Huron. Executive Chef Tim<br />

Goddard and his culinary team create food that is<br />

fresh and exciting while still offering the comfort<br />

of a home-cooked meal. Committed to providing<br />

See Facebook for Weekly Specials!<br />

Lunch Hours Available for Private Events<br />

Locally Sourced Ingredients<br />

Authentic Italian Cuisine<br />

Local Craft Beers<br />

Regional & Organic Wines from Italy<br />

Valentine’s Day Prix Fixe Menu!<br />

Reserve NOW!<br />

Take Out & Gift Certificates Available<br />

Tuesday–Thursday 4pm–8pm<br />

Friday & Saturday 11:30am–10pm<br />

Sunday Brunch 11am–2pm, Dinner 3pm–7pm<br />

Reservations Recommended<br />

2135 Dorchester Road, Dorchester<br />

519-268-0001<br />


Come Experience Our World!<br />

Award Winning Artisan Cheese<br />

NOW OFFERING! Affinage 101<br />

A hands-on behind-the-scenes experience<br />

• Visit the aging room where cheese is cured<br />

• Taste the changes in flavour as the cheese cures<br />

• Discover steps to judge cheese quality and taste<br />

• Create a delicious Gunn’s Hill fondue from scratch<br />

• Find details and register on our website<br />

445172 Gunn's Hill Rd, Woodstock, ON<br />

519-424-4024<br />

www.gunnshillcheese.ca<br />

<br />

Celebrating Local Chefs<br />

& Entrepreneurs!<br />

<br />

<br />

peppertreespice.com/classes<br />

<br />

http://www.peppertreespice.com<br />

223 Colborne Street, Port Stanley, Open Daily<br />

The Market at Western Fair, London, Sat & Sun<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

an exceptional dining experience, the culinary<br />

team uses fresh, local ingredients to prepare<br />

in-house soups, sauces, dressing and desserts. To<br />

complement the natural setting of The Benmiller,<br />

brunch at the Inn is a seasonally changing affair<br />

drawing inspiration from the world-class farms in<br />

Huron County and the availability of their bounty.<br />

81175 Benmiller Line, RR 4 Goderich, benmiller.ca<br />

Kyle Blandford, Craig Brodie, Mike Barker and<br />

Matt Whitney, four hobbyists-turned-businessmen,<br />

have turned the old XS Cargo building in Sarnia’s<br />

east end into Imperial City Brew House, an openconcept<br />

craft beer destination with a brewery<br />

and a taproom with 220-person capacity. The<br />

four co-owners spent years home-brewing from<br />

their basements, garages, and occasionally over<br />

a backyard fire pit. They pay homage to Sarnia’s<br />

history with the names of t heir beer and the<br />

industrial-feel of the brewery, while crafting a<br />

wide variety of fun niche products. The cityscape<br />

featured in the Imperial City logo highlights some<br />

of the landmarks that shape Sarnia, and the droplet<br />

crown represents both Sarnia’s rich history and<br />

their craft standing out above the rest. The primary<br />

focus is to be a community meeting and retail<br />

space. They want people to have an interactive<br />

experience in the brewery. 1330 Exmouth Street,<br />

Sarnia, imperialcitybrew.com.<br />

Kitchener’s newest Afternoon Tea venue is now<br />

open. Queen of Hearts Coffee & Tea House offers<br />

a laid back atmosphere to enjoy an afternoon<br />

tea experience or light lunch. Over 20 different<br />

beverages — from espresso and loose leaf tea<br />

to many types of lattes — are on offer, along<br />

with fresh baking, meat pies and sandwiches.<br />

Reservations required. Special events include:<br />

Keto & Gluten-Free High Tea on <strong>January</strong> 24 & 25;<br />

Valentine’s High Tea & Live Music on <strong>February</strong> 14;<br />

and Leap Year Afternoon Tea & Tarot Readings on<br />

<strong>February</strong> 29. 1151 Victoria St. N., Kitchener, 226-<br />

647-8969, QueenOfHeartsKitchener.com<br />

We want your BUZZ!<br />

Do you have culinary news or upcoming events<br />

that you’d like us to share?<br />

Every issue, <strong>Eatdrink</strong> reaches more than<br />

50,000 readers across Southwestern Ontario<br />

in print, and thousands more online.<br />

Get in touch with us at editor@eatdrink.ca<br />

Submission deadline for the next issue: <strong>February</strong> 5

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>January</strong>/<strong>February</strong> <strong>2020</strong> | 53<br />

Theatre<br />

Make Room on Your Calendar<br />

The North American Premiere of Room<br />


London audiences will be the first<br />

in North America to experience<br />

the stage adaptation of Room, the<br />

runaway international bestselling<br />

novel and Academy-Award-nominated<br />

film, when the play opens at the<br />

Grand Theatre in March <strong>2020</strong>.<br />

That the North American stage<br />

premiere should be held here is a tip<br />

of the hat to her adopted city by the<br />

novelist, Emma Donoghue. She lives<br />

in London and wrote the book here, as<br />

she puts it, in a variety of coffee shops<br />

and recreational facilities while being<br />

a busy working mom. She lists her<br />

writing locations like a Trip Advisor rating of<br />

where to best to snag a free table in the city:<br />

“The Little Red Roaster on Wortley, Covent<br />

Garden Market, the YMCA lobby, the Fred<br />

Landon branch library, the Weldon Library<br />

and the tennis bubble at Western, Forest City<br />

Gymnastics, Earl Nichols skating arena, and<br />

various park benches and parking lots,” she<br />

admits with candor.<br />

Interestingly, another London mom is the<br />

inspiration for the actor playing the aptly<br />

named lead role of Ma. Alexis Gordon, a<br />

London born and raised actor with Grand,<br />

Stratford and Shaw credits, says that she<br />

credits her own mother for their shared deep<br />

connection with Room, the novel.<br />

“My mom had given me the book to read<br />

Emma<br />

Donoghue<br />

as soon as it came out in 2010, excited that<br />

Emma [Donoghue] lived in London. Both my<br />

mom and I read it quickly. We both cried while<br />

reading it, and loved it. So when I told my mom<br />

I was auditioning she was very excited. It felt<br />

very personal for me to get the role of Ma, since<br />

it was such a shared experience for my mom<br />

and I just under a decade ago,” says Gordon.<br />

Room has three iterations: book, film, and<br />

play. Donoghue says, in simple terms, the<br />

book is the most psychological, the film is the<br />

most realistic, the play is the most dramatic.<br />

The world premiere of Room was co-produced<br />

by the Abbey Theatre in Dublin (Donoghue’s<br />

hometown) and Theatre Royal Stratford East,<br />

in 2017. It was directed by Cora Bissett, who<br />

will also direct the Canadian production.<br />

Donoghue says, “It’s pretty much the same play<br />

we produced in England, Scotland and Ireland<br />

in 2017, but we’re enjoying the opportunity to<br />

workshop it to improve anything we weren’t a<br />

hundred percent happy with, and I’ve adapted<br />

the language to a Canadian setting.” After the<br />

Grand run, the play moves to Toronto with<br />

Mirvish Productions.<br />

Room is the dark tale of Ma, who was<br />

kidnapped and held captive as a teenager. She<br />

endures sexual violence and gives birth to her<br />

son, who is raised in captivity. The pair survive<br />

together for years in the room. Donoghue<br />

says the dramatic story is perfectly suited for<br />

the stage. “I focused on the very theatrical<br />

premise at the heart of Room: two people in a

54 | <strong>January</strong>/<strong>February</strong> <strong>2020</strong><br />

Grand TheaTre, CovenT eatdrink.ca Garden |@eatdrinkmag<br />

ProduCTions,<br />

and david Mirvish PresenT:<br />

ROOM<br />

Based on the Novel by Emma Donoghue<br />

march 10 to 28 Spriet Stage<br />

SE A SON<br />


TIT LE<br />


grandtheatre.com box office 519.672.8800

An Udderly Entertaining<br />

<strong>2020</strong> Summer<br />

Theatre Season!<br />

20<br />

20<br />

SUMMER<br />


SEASON<br />

Season Subscriptions,<br />

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Available Now.<br />

Reserve Tickets 519-782-4353<br />

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PortStanley<br />

FestivalTheatre<br />

6-302 Bridge Street, Port Stanley<br />

limited space, with limited resources, making<br />

things up — giving meaning to their time,<br />

creating ritual and fun out of blankness. What<br />

Ma and Jack do is turn their imprisonment<br />

into theatre, casting themselves as heroes<br />

rather than victims,” she says. Creating the<br />

character has given Donoghue time to reflect<br />

on her own parenting. While some may think<br />

of Room as a tragic tale, Donoghue found it<br />

inspiring. “Sometimes I feel I’m not much of<br />

a mother compared with Ma, though — it’s<br />

hard to live up to her!”<br />

Some may be surprised to learn that the<br />

play has a musical element. Donoghue and<br />

Gordon say that music is a way for the actors<br />

to release intense emotions. “There won’t<br />

be big musical numbers with dancing,” says<br />

Gordon. “It’s more an elevation of emotion<br />

— when words aren’t enough to express how<br />

you’re feeling, you sing. I’m looking forward<br />

to working with Cora Bissett (the director<br />

who also wrote the music with Kathryn<br />

Joseph) and exploring that!” Donoghue<br />

says the singing will allow the role of Ma to<br />

“release all the things she has to hide from<br />

Jack and somehow to push emotion to a new<br />

level of intensity.” Donoghue was involved<br />

in discussions about where the songs would<br />

be placed and what they would do for the<br />

storyline. She says, “There’s a sort of rule for<br />

theatre that involves music — say it or sing it,<br />

not both — so we had to make sure the songs<br />

would help tell the story rather than just<br />

fleshing it out.”<br />

Gordon is a talented singer with a string of<br />

musical theatre productions including Guys<br />

and Dolls, The Sound of Music and Carousel at<br />

Stratford; Brigadoon at Shaw; Christmas Carol<br />

and Mary Poppins at the Grand. Room will take<br />

her to a darker stage, albeit still with singing.<br />

“I believe they’re calling Room a play with<br />

music. It is a bit of a different structure than<br />

your straightforward musical theatre piece,”<br />

says Gordon.<br />

Gordon says she is excited and challenged<br />

to follow in the footsteps of some famous<br />

actors who have taken on the role of Ma,<br />

including Brie Larson, who won an Academy<br />

Award for her portrayal. Gordon is set to bring<br />

her own vision of the role, based on research<br />

and experiences, to create a new Ma.<br />

“Sort of in a similar way, I’ve played a<br />

handful of roles in classic musical theatre that<br />

have a great following, based on their famous<br />

movie version and audiences growing up with<br />

them (Guys & Dolls, Carousel, Brigadoon, etc.).

56 | <strong>January</strong>/<strong>February</strong> <strong>2020</strong><br />

I try not to base my own performances or<br />

portrayals on the movies, because I can’t be<br />

those actresses and do what they did. It has to<br />

be genuine and come from me to translate the<br />

role best,” says Gordon.<br />

Room runs from March 13, <strong>2020</strong> (previews<br />

begin March 10) until March 28. It is not<br />

recommended for young children. It will<br />

then run April 4 to 26 at the CAA Theatre in<br />

Toronto, with the same cast.<br />

A special event for book clubs will be held<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

at the Grand Theatre with Emma Donoghue<br />

on <strong>February</strong> 10, 6:30–9 pm. She will discuss<br />

her novel Room as well as the upcoming play<br />

with lead actor Alexis Gordon. Watch the<br />

Grand website (grandtheatre.com) for more<br />

details.<br />

JANE ANTONIAK is a regular contributor to <strong>Eatdrink</strong>.<br />

She is also Manager, Communications & Media Relations,<br />

at King’s University College in London.<br />

Books<br />

Hungry<br />

Eating, Road-tripping and Risking it All<br />

with the Greatest Chef in the World<br />

By Jeff Gordinier<br />

Review by DARIN COOK<br />

Even as a food writer for Esquire, Jeff<br />

Gordinier found himself hungry for<br />

something more. Enter René Redzepi,<br />

the innovative chef behind Noma<br />

in Copenhagen, which has held the number<br />

one spot on the World’s Best Restaurant list<br />

four times since 2010, and which has possibly<br />

had more of an impact on the world than any<br />

other restaurant in history. Reluctant at first,<br />

Gordinier was asked to tag along with Redzepi<br />

in search of flavours around the world. It<br />

turned out to be just what the author needed,<br />

to fill a void and find the creative inspiration<br />

to write Hungry: Eating, Road-tripping and<br />

Risking it All with the Greatest Chef in the World<br />

(Tim Duggan Books, 2019).<br />

The book shines a spotlight<br />

on Redzepi — his is not<br />

a household name compared<br />

to the televised onslaught of<br />

celebrity chefs, but in culinary<br />

circles he is a pioneering<br />

legend. He is the epitome<br />

of the over-achieving perfectionist<br />

working diligently<br />

to keep himself on top of<br />

his game. By scouring the<br />

globe, he has accumulated<br />

an encyclopedic<br />

knowledge of<br />

foods that<br />

most people<br />

have never<br />

heard of. His<br />

appetite for<br />

memorable<br />

dining experiences,<br />

for<br />

flavours no<br />

one has tasted before,<br />

and for meal concepts no one has even<br />

considered is insatiable, and his name will forever<br />

be linked to the ground-breaking cuisine<br />

known as New Nordic that<br />

focuses on ingredients from<br />

the farms, wilderness, and<br />

seas of Denmark.<br />

As a food writer,<br />

Gordinier knew plenty<br />

of chefs, but influential<br />

individuals known for<br />

working wonders with<br />

Mexican, Korean, and<br />

Chinese food gravitated to<br />

Author Jeff Gordinier

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Author Jeff Gordinier (left) and Chef René Redzepi from<br />

Copenhagen’s renowned restaurant Noma<br />

Redzepi throughout their travels. Before his<br />

fortuitous meeting with Redzepi, the author’s<br />

gloominess about life hinged on a failing<br />

marriage, but with chefs with the status of<br />

rock stars surrounding him, with the globe as<br />

their playground, he became intoxicated with<br />

shadowing Redzepi.<br />

With nine trips to Mexico alone over the<br />

course of four years, the author witnessed<br />

the chef’s attempts to elevate mole beyond<br />

its regional status, never in a way to replicate<br />

the sauce, but maybe change it in ways to<br />

radiate from the Noma ethos. The same<br />

went for tortillas. Sure, Redzepi could make<br />

them, although he sensed his limitations<br />

by never making them the same as the old<br />

women in Mexican villages. He can seemingly<br />

make a meal out of anything, but perfect<br />

tortillas stumped him. All the more reason to<br />

obsessively visit Mexico to watch the Mayan<br />

women who could do it with such ease.<br />

A meal at Noma was a ticket Gordinier<br />

would have gladly taken at any point in his<br />

career, but his first meal there happened<br />

just before Redzepi decided to shutter his<br />

restaurant. The meal itself sounded as if it<br />

were conjured by wizardry, with combinations<br />

that only made sense in Redzepi’s mind —<br />

pumpkin and caviar, shrimp and radish, sea<br />

urchin and hazelnuts. Gordinier attributed<br />

Noma’s closure to the chef being restless,<br />

looking to move on, aspiring to something<br />

beyond that which had already been<br />

considered the best in the world. Reinventing<br />

is something that seems to come easily to<br />

the chef. Gordinier is informed that Noma<br />

2.0 will be resurrected in a new location<br />

in Copenhagen in the future, but until<br />

then Noma pop-ups were given temporary<br />

residency in Japan, Australia, and Mexico.<br />

The pop-up operations did not always<br />

run smoothly, but financial and logistical<br />

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impediments were no match for the chef’s<br />

obsession to prove that being hungry for new<br />

ideas can lead to revelations.<br />

As readers, we are lucky that Gordinier<br />

got caught up in Redzepi’s orbit, to chronicle<br />

a rare glimpse into culinary ingenuity.<br />

Gordinier’s writing is brilliant and vibrant and<br />

intriguing: he is immersed in the glistening,<br />

bubbling, aromatic cornucopia of Oaxaca<br />

marketplaces; he finds himself harvesting<br />

wild edibles in the Australian wilderness with<br />

Noma-trained foragers; he raises an eyebrow<br />

at the strangeness of New Nordic dishes with<br />

ingredients like moss, fermented crickets, sea<br />

buckthorn, pig’s blood, and kelp, until realizing<br />

they are indeed the best food imaginable.<br />

The book generally acts as a biography<br />

of Redzepi, but it is just as much about<br />

Gordinier’s rise from despair. Hungry is not<br />

only about satisfying food cravings, but<br />

following those other feelings that squirm in<br />

the pit of your stomach and drive you to shake<br />

up your life when it’s most needed.<br />

DARIN COOK is a freelance writer based in Chatham<br />

who keeps himself well-read and well-fed by visiting the<br />

bookstores and restaurants in London.

58 | <strong>January</strong>/<strong>February</strong> <strong>2020</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Recipes<br />

Fermentation Revolution<br />

70 Easy, Healthy Recipes for Sauerkraut, Kombucha, Kimchi and More<br />

By David Côté and Sébastien Bureau<br />

Review and Recipe Selections by TRACY TURLIN<br />

I<br />

spend a lot of time reading about food.<br />

Where and how it’s prepared, who cooks<br />

it and why they make it the way they do.<br />

Every once in a while I find a book that<br />

changes the way I see food. These are the gems<br />

I look for.<br />

One such book is Fermentation Revolution;<br />

70 Easy, Healthy Recipes for Sauerkraut,<br />

Kombucha, Kimchi and More. It’s written<br />

by Sébastien Bureau and David Côté, two<br />

men who have spent their working lives<br />

pursuing something a little different in the<br />

food industry. Bureau is a food scientist<br />

with a background in plant and molecular<br />

biology. He’s the founder and president<br />

of MannaNova, a consulting company<br />

specializing in the production of natural,<br />

fermented beverages and food. Côté is an<br />

entrepreneur in the field of living food. He<br />

co-founded RISE Kombucha, the raw food<br />

restaurant Crudessence, and LOOP, a circular<br />

economy business that produces juice from<br />

imperfect produce recovered from the<br />

grocery industry.<br />

I thought I knew a fair bit about<br />

fermenting food and beverages. I’ve made<br />

pickles,<br />

bread, cheese<br />

and yogurt<br />

at home. My<br />

husband has<br />

been making<br />

his own beer<br />

and keeping us<br />

both supplied<br />

with wine for<br />

years. When I<br />

came across<br />

Fermentation<br />

Revolution,<br />

I thought<br />

I might<br />

find a few<br />

variations<br />

on recipes<br />

I already<br />

knew. I<br />

didn’t<br />

think I would<br />

find a whole new understanding<br />

of living food.<br />

Bureau and Côté take us boldly through the<br />

process of fermentation. They discuss safety<br />

precautions, and the difference between<br />

fermenting food and just plain “bad” food<br />

in a way that makes perfect sense. This can<br />

be hard to get your head around if you come<br />

from a society that sanitizes its hands before<br />

cleaning the house. What this book does best<br />

is demystify the world of microorganisms that<br />

are in, on and around us all the time.<br />

If you are a nerd like me, you may also be<br />

amused by the idea that the first fermented<br />

food and beverages were almost certainly made<br />

by accident. I do<br />

wonder who was the<br />

first to look at the<br />

primordial soup that<br />

is a bowl of soggy<br />

grain fermented into<br />

beer and thought,<br />

Authors David Côté<br />

(far left) and Sébastien<br />


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

“Yeah, I should drink this.” Bless their heart.<br />

Many recipes in Fermentation Revolution can<br />

be made with readily available ingredients.<br />

Baker’s yeast, yogurt and sauerkraut are found<br />

in any supermarket and probably in most<br />

of our fridges already. Kombucha, kefir and<br />

sake require specialized cultures to get them<br />

started. These are available on the authors’<br />

website, revolutionfermentation.ca. A quick<br />

<strong>January</strong>/<strong>February</strong> <strong>2020</strong> | 59<br />

search for fermenting supplies in our region<br />

will also turn up a surprising number of local<br />

resources.<br />

There are many potential benefits to fermenting<br />

food. You may be looking for health<br />

benefits or to extend the life of food items.<br />

You might try it just for the fun of learning<br />

something new. Homemade Cheese Spread is<br />

Continued next page ...<br />

Homemade Cheese Spread<br />

No cheese is easier to master. You’ll regret that it<br />

took you so long to try your hand at making it!<br />

Preparation Time: 10 minutes<br />

Fermentation Time: 8 hours<br />


16-cup (4 L) pot, thermometer, dehydrator or<br />

oven, strainer, cheesecloth, 2 plates, airtight<br />

container<br />

16 cups (4 L) whole milk, unhomogenized if<br />

possible<br />

1 packet cheese or yogurt starter<br />

culture or 2 tbsp (30 mL) fresh<br />

cheese or yogurt<br />

¼ rennet tablet (sometimes life<br />

is complicated)<br />

3 tsp (15 g) sea salt, or to taste<br />

1 In the large pot, heat milk over<br />

medium heat to 95°F to 104°F (35°C<br />

to 40°C).<br />

2 Add starter culture, then rennet. Mix<br />

together. Cover and let stand for 4<br />

hours, without stirring.<br />

3 Place covered pot in dehydrator or<br />

another incubator (for example, the<br />

oven of an electric range, with heat<br />

off but oven light on) at 90°F to 104°F<br />

(32°C to 40°C). Let ferment for 4<br />

hours. The milk should be solidified<br />

and the unmistakable aroma of<br />

cheese should be apparent. To check,<br />

scoop up a spoonful; the curd should<br />

maintain its shape on the spoon.<br />

4 Using a knife, cut solidified curd<br />

into cubes, like a chessboard. Let<br />

stand for 15 minutes. Stir very gently<br />

without breaking pieces, then let<br />

stand for another 15 minutes.<br />

5 Transfer cheese to a strainer lined<br />

with cheesecloth and let whey drain<br />

off for 30 minutes. Add salt to taste,<br />

stirring to blend.<br />

6 Make a knot in cheesecloth to form a bundle. Press<br />

down a little with your hands to release whey.<br />

7 Transfer bundle to a plate and lay another plate on top<br />

as a weight. Refrigerate for 3 hours.<br />

8 Transfer solids to an airtight container and mix until<br />

texture is uniform.<br />

9 Spread generously on one (or several) wood ovenbaked<br />

Montreal bagels.<br />

Keeps for 2 weeks in the refrigerator.

60 | <strong>January</strong>/<strong>February</strong> <strong>2020</strong><br />

Continued from previous page ...<br />

one recipe that is easy enough for anyone to<br />

make but has enough steps to make you feel<br />

you’ve accomplished something really cool.<br />

Don’t be put off by people who will inevitably<br />

ask you why you don’t just save time and buy<br />

cream cheese spread. The difference in taste<br />

and texture is worth every minute you put<br />

into it.<br />

Vinified Fruits in Beeswax might not be<br />

something you’ll make every week but you<br />

have to admit, it looks very impressive. I<br />

imagine it hanging from the beams of my<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

imaginary country cottage, somewhere<br />

between the bundles of drying herbs and the<br />

copper pots.<br />

Whether you see food fermentation<br />

as traditional or trendy, it is a weird and<br />

wonderful journey through the world of<br />

kitchen chemistry..<br />

TRACY TURLIN is a freelance writer and dog groomer<br />

in London. Reach her at tracyturlin@gmail.com<br />

Photo credit for images : Mathieu Dupuis<br />

Courtesy of Fermentation Revolution: 70 Easy Recipes for Sauerkraut, Kombucha, Kimchi and More<br />

by Sébastien Bureau & David Côté © 2017 www.robertrose.ca. Available where books are sold.<br />

Vinified Fruits in Beeswax<br />

Here is one of the book’s signature recipes that<br />

is guaranteed to impress! (We give you the right<br />

to usurp our intellectual property and say you<br />

thought of it yourself.)<br />

There are two versions of this recipe: one<br />

with added yeast and the other using wild<br />

yeast already present on the fruit. Both recipes<br />

yield good results, but adding yeast speeds up<br />

the process and placates the<br />

impatient.<br />

In case of spills, use boiling<br />

water to remove the beeswax. To<br />

avoid this unpleasant task and<br />

the animated discussion that<br />

will ensue with your roommate<br />

or significant other, it’s best to<br />

cover your work surfaces with<br />

newspaper.<br />

Type of Fermentation: Alcoholic<br />

Preparation Time: 1 to 2 hours<br />

Fermentation Time: 2 days to 3<br />

weeks, depending on whether<br />

yeast is added<br />


Scale, small bowl and toothpicks<br />

(if using yeast), small deep<br />

saucepan, foil, clothespins,<br />

safety pins, thick cord or<br />

cheesecloth to hang fruit,<br />

pillowcase (if necessary)<br />

Champagne or bread yeast<br />

(optional)<br />

3 tbsp + 1 tsp (50 mL) warm water<br />

(if using yeast)<br />

10 to 15 ripe fruits with stem,<br />

depending on size (plums,<br />

apricots, figs, kiwis, cherries or<br />

other soft fruits with a skin)<br />

18 oz (500 g) beeswax

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>January</strong>/<strong>February</strong> <strong>2020</strong> | 61<br />

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1 Optional: If using yeast, mix it with warm water in<br />

a small bowl. To start the yeast, dip a toothpick in<br />

yeast mixture, then insert toothpick a few millimeters<br />

into the fruit. Repeat procedure two or three times in<br />

different places on each fruit.<br />

2 Line interior of small saucepan with foil. Place wax in<br />

foil in saucepan and melt over low heat just until fluid,<br />

without heating it too<br />

much. (Smoking wax<br />

can kill the yeasts on<br />

the skin of the fruit.)<br />

3 Working with one<br />

piece of fruit at a time,<br />

place a clothespin<br />

on the stem.<br />

Holding fruit by the<br />

clothespin, dip fruit<br />

in beeswax. Let set<br />

for a few seconds,<br />

then dip again, five<br />

to seven times, until<br />

fruit is completely<br />

coated in wax. Remove clothespin<br />

and fasten safety pin to stem. Pin fruit to a cord or<br />

hanging cheesecloth. Repeat with the remaining fruits.<br />

4 In winter, the fruits can ferment as is, in the air, without<br />

much risk of a fruit fly invasion. In summer, all fruits<br />

need to be protected by a pillowcase or another type of<br />

shelter to keep insects away.<br />

5 The fruits will ferment inside the wax. Deprived<br />

of oxygen, they will not grow mold and will turn<br />

effervescent. Once the wax cracks or juice brims over<br />

the base of the stem — after 2 or 3 days for fruits with<br />

yeast added or 2 to 3 weeks for fruits without added<br />

yeast — the fruits are ready to eat. Not all the fruits<br />

will be ready at the same time. You can look forward to<br />

a daily harvest!<br />

6 Cut in half and served with chocolate shavings, vinified<br />

fruits can be eaten like oysters! An exotic treat for<br />

a romantic evening for two or to share with your<br />

adventurous friends.<br />

If you want to eat all the fruit at the same time (for<br />

example, on a special occasion), store the fermented fruits<br />

in their wax shells in the fridge for a few days, until all of<br />

them are ready.<br />

TIP<br />

If your fruit doesn’t have a strong stem, wrap a string<br />

around the fruit to hold it and to pin it up. Dental floss<br />

seems to do the trick.

62 | <strong>January</strong>/<strong>February</strong> <strong>2020</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

The Lighter Side<br />

Super Bowl and Stout<br />

I<br />

think the last time I watched a full<br />

football game was back in high school<br />

— more years ago than I care to admit. I<br />

realized I would have to brush up on my<br />

game when I got — and gleefully accepted —<br />

a personal invite to a Super Bowl LIII Party at<br />

the Mill Street Brewery in Ottawa. Clearly I<br />

would have to brush up<br />

on my Roman numerals<br />

as well (in case you’re<br />

also a tad rusty, it was<br />

Super Bowl 53).<br />

Way back when, as<br />

a teenager and proud<br />

cheerleader for the Sir<br />

James Dunn Eagles, I<br />

had learned the rules<br />

for all high school<br />

sports. No need to<br />

embarrass yourself<br />

screaming “push ’em<br />

back, push ’em back,<br />

waaaay back!” when<br />

your team is on the<br />

offense. Or shaking<br />

your pom-poms when the opposing team is<br />

lining up to kick a field goal. But … I have to<br />

admit … other than knowing the name Tom<br />

Brady (even non-football fans recognize that<br />

guy! Do I get bonus points for knowing he’s<br />

a quarterback?) and having a rudimentary<br />

understanding of the historic roots of the<br />

team name, I knew nothing about the New<br />

England Patriots. Or the Los Angeles Rams for<br />

that matter.<br />

I’ll admit my “Absolutely love to attend!”<br />

RSVP was mostly motivated by thoughts<br />

of hanging out with some of my favourite<br />

people in the world, sipping some Mill Street<br />

seasonals, and enjoying the ambience of the<br />

old stone building that sits on the bank of the<br />

Ottawa River. But this was a once-a-year big<br />

deal in the sports world, so I felt compelled to<br />

do my homework. In less time than it takes<br />

to snap the ball, I had learned that Jared Goff<br />

was the Los Angeles Ram’s quarterback. And<br />

that some fans were lining up to support his<br />

By KYM WOLFE<br />

team simply because they didn’t want to see<br />

Brady win. Again. Having lived with sports<br />

fans I knew the game would be far more<br />

interesting if I at least pretended to have a<br />

cheering interest, and since I tend to root for<br />

the underdog, the Rams it would be.<br />

As we arrived that afternoon the snow<br />

was starting to swirl,<br />

adding to the charm of<br />

the beautiful old grist<br />

mill building. As I took<br />

in the picturesque<br />

winter scene,<br />

appreciating the clean<br />

lines of the classic<br />

Victorian industrial<br />

architecture, it<br />

occurred to me that<br />

it was a style you<br />

might run across in<br />

New England. I’m not<br />

usually superstitious,<br />

but I did wonder if<br />

that was an omen.<br />

Had I picked the<br />

wrong team to cheer for?<br />

Once the game started I did follow the play,<br />

and managed to cheer and boo at the right<br />

times. But I have to admit, the best cheering<br />

I did all night was when I raised my glass to<br />

toast our hosts. Maybe … if I’d tried a little<br />

harder … the Rams could have completed that<br />

pass. Or at least made the game a little more<br />

exciting. The Patriots literally ran away with<br />

the ball … and the game.<br />

But what the heck. I had a mug full of<br />

Vanilla Porter and some amazing food. I had<br />

access to a few specialty beers that are only<br />

served in the Ottawa brewpub. I was sitting<br />

in a charming historic building surrounded by<br />

family and friends. For me, a Super Bowl party<br />

— or any party — doesn’t get much better<br />

than that!<br />

KYM WOLFE is freelance writer based in London.



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