Eatdrink #81 January/February 2020

Issue #81 | January/February 2020 

eatdrink 

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine 

Ex 

Celebrating Time-Honoured Bonds 

Happiness Café 

Budapest Restaurant 

Unique Food Attitudes 

Aranka Csárda 

Marienbad Restaurant 

Central & Eastern European 

Cuisine in London 

Profiles 

of Excellence 

Cowbell Brewing Co. 

Dairy Distillery 

Eatdrink’s London Wine & Food Show 

Page 29 

FEATURING 

Expand Your Beer Palate 

Recommendations Outside the 

Average Comfort Zone 

Can You Drive to Italy? 

Eataly Toronto Is Now Open 

Local Reds to Warm You Up 

Baby, It’s Cold Outside 

Serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario since 2007 

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eatdrink 


 

eatdrinkmagazine 

@eatdrinkmag 

eatdrinkmag 

eatdrink.ca 

Think Global. Read Local. 

Publisher 

Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca 

Managing Editor Cecilia Buy – cbuy@eatdrink.ca 

Food Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca 

Copy Editor Kym Wolfe 

Social Media Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca 

Advertising Sales Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca 

Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca 

Stacey McDonald – stacey@eatdrink.ca 

Terry-Lynn “TL” Sim – TL@eatdrink.ca 

Finances 

Ann Cormier – finance@eatdrink.ca 

Graphics 

Chris McDonell, Cecilia Buy 

Writers 

Jane Antoniak, Darin Cook, 

Gary Killops, Bryan Lavery, 

George Macke, Tracy Turlin, 

Kym Wolfe 

Photographers Steve Grimes, Nick Lavery 

Telephone & Fax 519-434-8349 

Mailing Address 525 Huron Street, London ON N5Y 4J6 

Website 

City Media, Cecilia Buy 

Social Media Mind Your Own Business 

Printing 

Sportswood Printing 

OUR COVER 

These exquisite heartshaped 

Entremets from 

Happiness Café are a 

delicious reminder that 

Valentine’s Day is fast 

approaching. Read about 

Happiness and other 

Central and East European 

restaurants in London on 

page 12. 

© 2020 Eatdrink Inc. and the writers. 

All rights reserved. 

Reproduction or duplication of any material published in Eatdrink 

or on Eatdrink.ca is strictly prohibited without the written 

permis sion of the Publisher. Eatdrink has a printed circulation 

of 20,000 issues published six times annually, for a total of 120,000 

copies in print. The views or opinions expressed in the information, 

content and/or advertisements published in Eatdrink or online 

are solely those of the author(s) and do not necessarily represent 

those of the Publisher. The Publisher welcomes submissions but 

accepts no responsibility for unsolicited material. 

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Contents 

Issue #81 | January/February 2020 

Publisher’s Notes 

Twenty-Twenty Vision 

Hindsight and Foresight in 2020 

By CHRIS McDONELL 

6 

Restaurants 

Central & East European Cuisines 

Celebrating Time-Honoured Bonds 






By BRYAN LAVERY 

12 

Road Trips 




24 

Profiles of Excellence 

2020 London 

Wine & Food Show 

Supplement 


30 


32 

Beer 


Recommendations Outside the Average 

Comfort Zone 

By GEORGE MACKE 

34 

38 

24 

56 

58 

Wine 


Local Reds to Warm You Up 

By GARY KILLOPS 

38 

The BUZZ 

Culinary Community Notes 

New and Notable 

By THE EDITORS 

41 

Theatre 

Make Room on Your Calendar 

A North American Premiere 

By JANE ANTONIAK 

53 

Books 

Hungry 

Eating, Road-tripping, and Risking it All 

with the Greatest Chef in the World 

By Jeff Gordinier 

Review by DARIN COOK 

56 

Recipes 

Fermentation Revolution 

by Sébastien Bureau and David Côté 

Review & Recipe Selections 

By TRACY TURLIN 

58 

The Lighter Side 

Super Bowl & Stout 

By KYM WOLFE 

62 

34

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine 

January/February 2020 | 5 

RESERVE NOW 

For Our Succulent 

Valentine’s Day Dinner 

Friday, February 14 

Call for reservations 

519-430-6414 

/Blakes2ndFloor 

¦

6 | January/February 2020 

Publisher’s Notes 

Twenty-Twenty Vision 

Hindsight and Foresight in 2020 

By CHRIS McDONELL 

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag 

I 

am cautiously optimistic that the new 

decade that has just been launched will 

be one that will be looked back upon 

with fondness at some future date. A 

century ago, the world was in a sorry state, 

coming out of a grievous period marked by 

horrifying world war followed by a devastating 

influenza epidemic. Today’s climate change 

crisis, with floods and fires 

taking a toll in equal measure, 

and the preponderance of harsh 

autocrats and self-interested 

oligarchs coming to power in so 

many corners of the globe has 

similarly put many of us into a 

dark mood, with worries about 

where we are headed as a society. 

Is it possible that we are in the 

process of turning a corner? Is it 

possible that this too shall pass? 

Today we recall The Roaring 

Twenties of the twentieth 

century as a halcyon celebratory 

time, with joyful music and 

dance, boozy nightlife, and 

general prosperity. I don’t imagine too many 

people saw that coming in January 1920. 

Let’s hope we will look back one day upon the 

2020s with equal affection, as a time when 

CHATHAM-KENT • ELGIN • HURON • LONDON • MIDDLESEX 

OXFORD • PERTH • SARNIA-LAMBTON • WINDSOR-ESSEX-PELEE ISLAND 

Local Flavour 

SOUTHWEST ONTARIO 

CULINARY GUIDE 

Restaurants • Specialty Shops & Services • Farmers’ Markets 

Craft Beer & Local Wine • Agri-Tourism Attractions 

eatdrink 


localflavour.ca 

Your sustainable studio who cares 

we embraced the environmental changes we 

needed to make, as a time when we pushed 

back retrograde political impulses and 

recommitted ourselves to democracy, equality, 

and justice for all. This is certainly possible. 

We have got a number of things right over the 

past decade. Looking back to our first issue of 

EXPANDED 

EDITION 

VOLUME 8 

2010, our Writer at Large Bryan 

Lavery wrote about “Culinary 

Tourism” as an emerging trend. 

Understanding the critical role 

that genuine encounters with 

local food and drink had in 

driving tourism made sense 

to us then, and it makes even 

more sense to us now, especially 

with the recent understanding 

of how authentic “Experiential 

Tourism” takes this to another 

level. All of this is reflected in 

our new volume of our annual 

Local Flavour guide. Copies will 

soon be widely available, and 

you can check the localflavour.ca 

website for pickup locations, or you can access 

the entire guide online. 

This year’s guide includes outstanding 

culinary attractions throughout our 

hair • colour • barber • skin • spa • makeup • 4 everyone 

140 Ann Street, Suite 106, London 

519 709 4247 

www.studioHartistgroup.com 

@studioHartistgroup


corner of Southwest Ontario. London 

serves as somewhat of a hub, with strong 

representation in the restaurant, specialty 

shop and craft brewery areas. Support from 

SWOTC (Southwest Ontario Tourism Corp.) 

and the Ministry of Tourism helped broaden 

participation from the Lake Erie North 

Shore and Huron Shores wine regions, as 

well as breweries, distillers and agricultural 

attractions throughout that region. 

Huron and Perth Counties are also well 

respresented, particularly by craft brewers, 

inns and a strong representation of Stratford 

restaurants. There’s plenty for everyone in 

this handy guide we’re sure you’ll find useful 

throughout 2020. 

Looking back upon the last decade in the life 

of Eatdrink, it’s also easy to see that we made 

some regrettable mistakes along the way. I’m 

not referring to the petty but infuriating typos 

that somehow manage to make their way into 

the carefully edited text, or even a couple of 

more serious errors in reportage that involved 

apology and clarification or correction. These 

were problems that were resolved fairly easily, 

or were trivial enough that they were of no real 

consequence. My deep regrets come from the 

occasional mismanagement of expectations 

around stories, and the resulting hurt feelings 

and disappointments from people that I care 

about. I wish I could promise that this will not 

happen again. In good conscience, I cannot 

guarantee that. 

Our endeavour to celebrate such a large 

culinary community with some depth means 

that our gaze cannot fall in equal measure 

across the full spectrum of activity at all 

times. What we can do is strive to keep 

our eye roving for exciting new creative 

endeavours without ignoring the longstanding 

businesses that are equally worth 

celebrating. I don’t mean to make excuses, but 

this is a heady responsibility and a challenging 

task that entails difficult decisions with every 

issue of the magazine. If our readers did not 

regard our story choices with faith in our 

judgment, this would not matter so much, 

but we know that our editorial spotlight 

generally results in new business. We do 

our best to spread that attention around as 

generously as possible. It is truly great news 

that our community is so rich with stories 

worth telling. The bad news is that our little 

magazine cannot fit them all into an annual 

output of six issues. 

Indoor Winter Farmers’ Market 

Saturdays, February 1–April 4, 9am–1pm 

The winter months are a time for cozy 

stews, baked goods with hot tea, and 

roasted winter vegetables. We have a 

specially curated selection of amazing 

local vendors keeping us warm 

while the market maintains its 

“no re-selling” guarantee throughout 

the winter months. Enjoy the season with live music, 

free yoga, free cooking classes and kids programming. 

Skating on the Rotary Rink 

Mon-Fri 11am-7pm, Sat 11am-6pm & Sun 11am-4pm. 

Lace up your skates and enjoy winter on 

the outdoor Rotary Rink at 

the Market. Skating is 

free and open daily, 

weather permitting. 

The Ultimate Market Gastro Tour 

laveryculinarygroup.ca/experiences 

Experience the Covent Garden Market in a new way and 

indulge all of your senses with an insider tour by a local 

expert. Contact the Lavery 

Culinary Group to book a 

Forest City Culinary Experience 

or have your own 

Covent Garden Market 

experience custom-tailored. 

Individuals, groups and corporate teams are all welcome. 

For custom experiences: create@laveryculinarygroup.ca 

MARKET HOURS 

Mon–Fri 8am–7pm 

Saturday 8am–6pm 

Sunday 11am–4pm 

Mezzanine & Restaurant Hours Differ



We rely upon our social media channels 

to help alleviate some of the pressure 

involved with spreading the word about 

great businesses and activity that we know 

our readers are interested in. 

If you are not following us 

yet, please do. If you are not 

sharing your news with us 

online, either directly or by 

tagging us with your posts, 

please change that. If you 

are not sending us your news 

for our BUZZ column, start. 

We want to share your information and for 

many readers, this is the first part of the 

magazine that they read. But we don’t have 

the journalistic resources to gather all of this 

information. Have I mentioned that there 

is no charge for any of these services? We’re 

waiting to hear from you! 

If you have a business that has never 

advertised with us, we encourage you to 

have a discussion with us about that. While 

we labour over our editorial content, we can 

assure you that our readers also look at our 

ads with genuine interest, and make a great 

@eatdrinkmag 

deal of purchasing decisions based upon 

them. This is the real value in being a niche 

publication. The ads in Eatdrink magazine are 

part and parcel of our ability to tell the story 

of what is going on in the 

community. We assure you 

that there is great value in 

investing in ads here. If you 

have doubts, we encourage 

you to flip through these 

pages and call some of our 

advertisers and ask them 

how this magazine is working 

for them. Call at a convenient time and I’m 

sure you’ll get an honest answer. 

I am pleased that an exceptionally good 

friend to Eatdrink has embarked upon a welldeserved 

retirement, but I am personally and 

professionally going to miss my interactions 

with Cathy Rehberg at Stratford Tourism 

Alliance. Cathy has been a tireless advocate for 

Stratford — there has never been any doubt 

about where her loyalties lay — yet she has 

also given generously of her expertise to help 

make Eatdrink a better magazine. For a number 

.


at the London Hunt Club 

April 30 th 

5 

Different Chefs & 

Course Dinner 

ONE INCREDIBLE EVENING 

supporting BethanysCure 

Cocktail Hour 5:00PM 

5 different restaurants hosting tasting stations! 

Featured signature cocktails with 

an amazing Silent Auction. 

Dinner Program 6:30PM 

5 local Chefs will take you on a culinary 

journey throughout the evening. Live Auction 

hosted by the one and only The Auctionista! 

Musical Guest: 

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of years, Cathy volunteered her time with 

us as an editorial advisor, not only keeping 

us informed about the latest changes and 

developments in Stratford, but helping shape 

the overall approach and focus of the magazine 

with suggestions and feedback. This was a vital 

service, and helped immeasurably in getting 

us on a successful track. Just as important was 

Cathy’s constant encouragement and buoyant 

good nature, her genuine concern for our 

success, and kindness, even when her budget 

was tighter than we wished it was, or she asked 

for data to decide whether to recommend 

her organization spend money with Eatdrink. 

Stratford has always been important to this 

publication, but if that had not led us to meet 

Cathy Rehberg, I’m not sure we would be where 

we are today. Thanks, Cathy. I look forward to 

hearing about your next adventures. 

The Eatdrink New Year effectively kicks off at 

the London Wine & Food Show every year, 

running January 16–18 in 2020 at the Western 

Fair Agriplex, and we’re proud to include our 

“Profiles of Excellence” show supplement 

in this issue. Innovators Cowbell Brewing 


Co. and Dairy Distillery are featured, and 

I think that it is no coincidence that both 

have made architectural and environmental 

considerations central to their business 

model. Consumers demand a great product — 

that’s number one — but read on to find out 

how that is enhanced, not compromised, by 

their manufacturing approach. 

Bryan Lavery had rounded up a number of 

outstanding examples of Central and Eastern 

European cuisines that contribute to London’s 

vital restaurant scene. There’s more than 

sauerkraut on the menus, but with that kind 

of fermentation becoming such a hot trend, 

from kombucha to kimchi to craft cocktails, 

Tracy Turlin reviews Fermentation Revolution 

as a guide for us, with some inspiring recipes. 

George Macke has some great suggestions for 

broadening one’s craft beer palate, and Gary 

Killops has some Ontario red wines that will 

help warm you up for winter. There’s plenty 

more to make this a great start to the year, and 

I wish you all the best for 2020. 

Peace, 

LOVE, 

LOVE IT! 

SO MANY 

SHOPS. 

THEMARKETWFD.COM 

HALINA A. 

GOOGLE REVIEW

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The heart of 

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At Metzger’s, 

we follow Old World 

recipes to create healthy and 

wholesome foods. We hand select 

dry aged Ontario Prime and AAA 

Beef and offer superior local Pork, 

Poultry and Lamb. We are especially 

proud of our own handcrafted 

artisan-style meats and salamis. We 

are confident that you will taste the 

Metzger Meats difference. 

Voted #1 Best Burger 

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Local Beef • Pork • Lamb • Poultry 

Specialty European Meat Products 

Historic Post Office & Customs Building 

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www.clocktower-inn.com



Restaurants 

Celebrating 

Time-Honoured Bonds 

Central and Eastern European Cuisine in London 


Eastern European bonds of culture and 

cuisine are closely tied to the changing 

borders and economic renaissance 

of the region following lengthy 

periods of conflict and turmoil. In recent 

years, Eastern European cuisines have been 

overlooked and underrated by the food media 

in the West. The cuisines are overshadowed, 

stereotyped as unremarkable, heavy and not 

particularly innovative. This is the opposite of 

my own experiences. 

The Budapest 

and the Marienbad 

restaurants have long 

served as London’s 

quintessential 

restaurants for Eastern 

European-style dining, 

but the list does not 

end there. If you 

scratch just beyond 

the surface, you will 

find that London can 

boast a comprehensive 

regional variety of 

cooking styles which 

includes, among others, Hungarian, Czech, 

Ukrainian and Polish cuisines. 

London has a standout gourmet food 

emporium in Alicia’s Fine Foods on Trafalgar 

Street near Highbury. Alicia’s stocks a vast 

selection of Eastern European food products 

with a focus on Poland, everything from 

confectionery and chocolates to preserves, 

condiments, canned fish, chestnut paste, 

pączki and other challenging-to-find products. 

Pączki are essentially fried and glazed 

doughnuts made with a rich dough mixture 

of eggs, fats, sugar and yeast, filled with fruit 

purée or custard. Alicia’s has an extensive 

delicatessen counter, large bakery and pastry 

selection, and a European grocery section with 

many Eastern European versions of products. 

Anna Turkiewicz is a well-known caterer and 

has been a Covent Garden Market mainstay 

for the last two decades. She is the friendly, 

hands-on owner of Kleiber’s Deli (at the 

Market since 1940) and known for her quality 

delicatessen and gourmet products, which 

are procured from across Poland, Germany, 

Holland, Switzerland and other parts of Europe. 

Well-known to downtown food enthusiasts, for 

whom Turkiewicz 

prepares her 

signature soups, 

cabbage rolls, 

schnitzels, sausages 

and refutably the 

finest pierogies 

downtown for takeaway. 

This is the style 

of home cooking 

Turkiewicz enjoyed 

when growing up, 

and later as a cook 

and dietician in 

Czestochowa, Poland, 

where she met her 

husband Andrzej, also a professional cook. 

There are often line-ups that attest to Kleiber’s 

popularity. This is where you can purchase 

marzipan, quince jams, mustards, and holiday 

confectionery. Turkiewicz is also the caterer at 

the German-Canadian Club, where she operates 

Anna’s Catering. 

At the Market at Western Fair there is 

Agnes Petenyi’s Hungarian-inspired Butcher’s 

Wife and Evi’s Deli which is known for 

Hungarian sausages, pepperettes and garlic 

spread. Across the street from the Market, 

Miki Hambleck’s The Hungary Butcher makes 

over 40 varieties of European-style handmade 

sausages with quality ingredients that are 

mainly gluten-free. Hambleck uses all-natural 

Chocolate Entremets (multi-layered mousse cakes) 

with apricot and edible gold from Happiness Café


casings and no nitrates or fillers. The familyowned 

and operated Bogal Homemade Pierogi 

at the Market at Western Fair source local 


ingredients, many from within the market, to 

make small-batch pierogi from scratch using 

a traditional recipe with a contemporary twist. 

Ukrainian “Happiness” in Downtown London 

Nothing entirely represents a city like its café 

culture. Olga and Anatolii Prytkova’s familyowned 

Happiness Coffee and Desserts, on 

Wellington Street across from One London Place, 

features Ukrainian-inspired-style coffee and scratch 

baking, including seasonal and specialty cakes, 

macarons, cupcakes and chocolates. They offer an 

excellent selection of delectable high-end doughnuts 

such as glazed pistachio, crème brûlée, caramel-filled 

with salted caramel, mango, and passion fruit. There are 

croissants, waffles and some of the best European-style 

sandwiches you will find in the city. The superb coffee 

for their espresso-based drinks comes from specialty 

craft roaster Hatch in Toronto. 

The premises have a clean, modern feel with plate 

glass windows allowing lots of natural light. There are 

cups suspended from the ceiling like mobiles and other 

cheerful and whimsical touches. 

The name Happiness originated when the Prytkovas 

lived in central Ukraine in the town of Kropyvnytskyi 

(formerly Kirovohrad). A family friend purchased 

a box of cakes that Olga had baked and said it was 

like a box of happiness, and the name stuck. At the 

time, they didn’t have a café, just a small kitchen for 

custom orders. They named each of their boxes, “Box of 

Happiness,” Prytkova’s said. “When we decided to open 

our café in downtown London, we said now it’s not a 

box, it’s a place of happiness.” 

When the family initially moved to Canada they 

settled in Winnipeg for a year and a half. Olga worked 

for chocolatier Constance Popp, where they made fresh 

premium artisan chocolates, pastries and frozen treats. 

The Prytkovas did not like the colder prairie climate 

and decided to relocate to London, which is closer in 

size and weather to their former hometown in Ukraine. 

In addition to their exquisite icings and glazes, 

Happiness can laser print images on their cookies, 

French macarons, mousse cakes and chocolates. 

“People choose selfies, logos, or sweet messages,” says 

Prytkova. “Your logo will not only look great but will 

taste great too.” 

1 

2 


430 Wellington Street, London 

519-204-2854 

myhappiness.ca 

tuesday to friday: 8:30 am–6 pm 

saturday: 9 am–5 pm 

sunday: 10 am–4 pm 

closed monday 

3 

1 Entremets —multi-layered mousse cakes 

2 A Signature Wedding Cake 

3 A Variety of Cupcakes


Budapest Restaurant’s Renaissance 

The landmark Budapest Restaurant has 

been operating since 1956, and owners 

Eduard Nagy and Anita Tasonyi, 

20-year veterans of the establishment, have 

been operating the restaurant for over a 

year. Protégés of the legendary restaurateur 

Marika Hayek, they continue to delight 

clients by offering authentic Hungarian 

food and drink. The restaurant is having a 

renaissance; the kitchen has recently been 

renovated and modernized, menus have 

been refreshed, the glassware and silverware 

updated. There is a new street-side canopied 

Owners Anita 

Tasonyi & 

Eduard Nagy 


patio for al fresco dining. 

A local gem, with bohemian ambience and 

a Roma Gypsy-style aesthetic with plush 

velvet valances and curtained alcoves and 

comfortable armchairs, the décor is a mix of 

traditional designs, embroidery, lace, textures, 

prints and photographs. 

Two main rooms lead back from Dundas 

Street linked by an arched passageway 

across the middle, with an elevated ornate 

banquet hall for private functions at the far 

end. The feel is Old World European with 

heart, and a deliciously authentic menu. 

Confident, expansive cooking keeps 

traditional Hungarian flavours front 

and centre — think classic offerings 

flavoured predominantly by woodsy, 

smoky Hungarian paprika — dishes 

that are precisely prepared and 

expertly flavoured. Paprika is not just a 

superficial specialty to garnish food, but 

an integral element. Budapest is much 

more than a venerable schnitzel house. 

It is home to classic stroganoff and 

blintz, all indicative of the cuisine. 

Goulash (gulyás) originated as a 

humble soup-stew, cooked over an open 

fire by Hungarian herdsmen. Still, the 

addition of refined varieties of paprika 

from ground red chillies, tender beef, 

and a rich tomato base have made the 

dish an international staple. Goulash is 

served here both as a hearty soup and as 

an entrée. House-made pierogies filled 

with potato and dill, fried golden and 

topped with sour cream and bacon, are a 

new addition to the appetizer selection. 

Signature dishes include a variety of 

superb schnitzels, dipped in egg batter, 

coated with breadcrumbs and golden 

fried. Iconic cabbage rolls are delicious 

parcels of spiced pork and rice with a 

creamy paprika sauce and served with 

debreceni sausage. There are medallions 

of pork tenderloin with garlic and 

Hungarian spices, and slow-cooked 

roast lamb shoulder with a cream and 

mustard sauce. Traditional combination 

platters or special prix-fixe Hungarian 

dinners — served with nokedli (regional 

Recent renovations include the installation 

of a welcoming street-side canopied patio for 

seasonal al fresco dining.


1 

2 


Hungarian dumplings) are always delicious 

— but save room for dessert. On offer are 

a stunning classic walnut roll, house-made 

strudels and palacsinta (crepes). At the 

heart of the restaurant’s 64 years of success 

is food thoughtfully prepared and crafted 

with quality ingredients. 

Chef is an innovator, adding interesting 

contemporary twists to the dishes and 

the plating. The passionate kitchen takes 

a handful of top quality ingredients and 

allows them to shine. That is Marika 

Hayek’s legacy. 

Friendly staff can accommodate dietary 

requirements and restrictions. The familyrun 

restaurant offers banquet facilities and 

is available for lunch and dinner parties, 

celebrations, business meetings and 

weddings. Located downtown in the hotel 

district, the restaurant is a short walk to 

the Delta Armouries, DoubleTree by Hilton 

and RBC Place London. 


348 Dundas Street (at Waterloo) 

519-439-3431 

budapestrestaurant.com 

monday–thursday: 11 am–2 pm; 4 pm–10 pm 

friday: 11 am–2 pm; 4 pm–10 pm 

saturday: 4 pm–10 pm 

sunday: 4 pm–9 pm 

Interior photos by NICK LAVERY 

3 

4 

1 Hungarian dinners — served with nokedli (regional 

Hungarian dumplings) — are always delicious 

2 Signature dishes include superb schnitzels, dipped in egg 

batter, coated with breadcrumbs and golden fried. 

3 Chicken Schnitzel on a Kaiser 

4 Braised cabbage roll served with nokedli and Debreceni 

sausage 

Dining Room Manager Julia



A Modern Polish Culinary Perspective: 

Unique Food Attitudes in Old East Village 

Barbara Czyz has operated Unique Food 

Attitudes as a catering business for 24 

years. Her seven-year-old bistro in Old 

East Village across from the Palace Theatre 

and the Ark Aid Mission has been an ongoing 

success due to its accessible modern Polish 

culinary perspective. The bistro with its black 

slate counters, chrome accents, comfortable 

seating, window seating and large 

storefront windows with lots of natural 

lighting continues to draw clients from 

all over the city for the food and the 

warm and friendly vibe. 

Czyz and her husband, Jaroslaw 

(Jarek), immigrated to London from 

Poland via Greece in 1989. When Czyz 

graduated from Fanshawe College’s 

Culinary Management course in 1996, 

she and two classmates formed a 

catering company. One partner left 

after six months and the other after 

two years, leaving Czyz as the sole proprietor. 

Czyz really upped the ante when she signed 

exclusive catering contracts with Delta Emco 

and Trojan Technologies, where she operates 

the employee cafeterias, aided by Chef 

Julianna Guy. 

The menu and chalkboard offerings at 

the Unique Food Attitudes bistro feature 

traditional Polish cuisine with a seductive, 

clean and minimalist flair. This is the cooking 

of Czyz’s mother, the food that speaks the 

Owner Barbara Czyz 

truth of her family. The kitchen showcases 

its versatility with house specialties such as 

traditional kurek soup with kielbasa and egg, 

and earthy red borscht with a distinctive 

Photo courtesy of London Free Press 

1 

2 

Traditional Polish cuisine 

with chalkboard specials 

and minimalist flair 

1 Breaded Pork Cutlet with potatoes and mizeria 

(cucumber salad) 

2 Polish Poutine (cheddar pierogies covered with 

goulash sauce and Cheddar cheese) and surówka z 

czerwonej kapusty (red cabbage salad)



sweet and sour flavour. There is 

goulash ladled over crispy placki 

(potato pancakes), krokiety (crepes), 

bigos (sauerkraut-mushroommeat 

stew) and tender pierogies 

(dumplings) filled with sauerkraut 

and/or mushrooms, meat, potato 

and/or savoury cheese, with fried 

onions. Specials have included stuffed 

beef rolls with pickles, peppers and 

onions smothered in a zesty mustard 

sauce served with shredded carrot 

salad and two perfect scoops of 

mashed potatoes. 

House-made cabbage rolls are 

slow-cooked and made of pork, rice 

and bacon. Sauce is often the main 

difference in regional variations. 

Czyz is known for a lighter sauce 

that is a perfect complement to 

her cabbage rolls. Signature Polish 

poutine features house-made 

Cheddar pierogies with goulash and 

additional Cheddar cheese. We love 

the crispy and perfectly balanced 

mizeria (cucumber and sour cream 

salad). There is sauerkraut salad 

and a shredded red cabbage salad 

that is otherworldly. There are apple 

pancakes with fresh fruit and whipped 

cream, French toast, crepes, omelets 

and deli sandwiches on the breakfast 

menu. There is sensuality to the food 

and presentation. One day our server 

recommended the lemon posset, on 

another day, the szavlotka (apple cake) 

and we have been devotees of the 

desserts ever since. Czyz has built a 

reputation for wedding and holiday 

cakes, including her handmade 

krokettas and schlegye that remind her 

European clientele of their homelands. 

Her son Matt is often serving in 

the front of house, and daughter 

Patrycja when home is on hand in the 

restaurant. A staunch member of the 

Polish community, Czyz continues to 

support many community events. 


697 Dundas Street, London 

519-649-2225 

unique-food-attitudes.com 

monday–wednesday: 9am–6 pm 

thursday–saturday: 9 am–8 pm 

sunday: closed 

3 

4 

5 

6 

3 Bigos (sauerkraut-mushroom-meat stew) and fresh bread 

4 Soup of the Day and Deli Sandwich 

5 Goulash with Placki (potato pancakes) and surówka z czerwonej 

kapusty (red cabbage salad) 

6 Raspberry and Chocolate Cake


Aranka Csárda is a family-run Hungarian 

restaurant on Longwoods Road, beside 

Millar Berry Farms, just outside of 

Lambeth. The Komaromi family take pride in 

ownership and serve authentic, quality food. The 

decor and colour scheme are meant to reflect 

the ambience of an authentic Hungarian csárda 

(traditionally a tavern on the outskirts of town). 

Renovations on the former premises of George’s 

Family Restaurant, which more recently had 

housed Yia Yia’s Grille, commenced in the summer 

of 2016, and Aranka Csárda officially opened 

for business in November 2016. Recently the 

restaurant survived six months of unrelenting 

road construction. 

Aranka, a popular traditional Hungarian name 

derived from the Hungarian “arany” meaning 

“gold”, translates to Goldie in English. It is the 

name of Zoltan’s wife, who is known for her 

cooking skills. In 1993, during the civil war, Zoltan 

and Aranka, with two six-month-old twin boys 

and a three-year-old daughter, left the town 

of Ada in the former Yugoslavia (now in the 

province of Vojvodina, Serbia) and immigrated 

to Canada. Zoltan spent some time working 

with the Hungarian Independent Film and Video 

Association of Budapest, owning and operating Zoli 

Video Productions after he arrived in Canada. 

The casual white-linen dining room has 

banquette seating as well as tables and chairs. 

There is lots of natural light and the artifacts and 

stoneware adorning the walls and windowsills 

have been donated by the local Hungarian 

community. 

Chef Eva Szilagy is a Budapest native and it 

is undoubtedly paprika that characterizes her 

cuisine. Traditional recipes have their heart and 

soul in the Hungarian classics. The cuisine uses 

a lot of onions and sour cream, and butter is the 

base for many of the homemade recipes. 

Meats are sourced twice a week from the 

Tribizan family-owned Mount Brydges Abattoir, 

located 15 minutes outside London. The family 

is known for quality fresh and smoked meats, 

especially the sausages. Zolton says, due to the 

abattoir owners’ Slovenian background, they 

were able to introduce Hungarian Ribs on the 

menu. These ribs require a special cut with lots of 


Hungarian Tradition & Authenticity at Aranka Csárda 

1 

2 

1 Owner Zoltan Komaromi and Chef Eva Szilagy 

2 Just outside Lambeth, the restaurant offers ample 

free parking 

3 The casual white-linen dining room offers 

comfortable seating and lots of natural light 

3


meat on the back ribs. Traditionally Hungarian 

Ribs are 7–8 cm thick, multi-layered and juicy. 

Additional fat makes the ribs more tender. 

Cabbage and sauerkraut are sourced from St. 

Jacob’s Foods, a family farm in New Hamburg. 

Zoltan’s 81-year-old father makes the trip 

regularly to New Hamburg to pick up supplies. 

Sour cabbage, a traditional Eastern European 

staple, is a full head of cabbage, core removed, 

that has been fermented in salt brine which they 

use for their signature cabbage rolls. Sauerkraut 

is made of shredded cabbage mixed with salt, 

which draws out the natural juices of the cabbage, 

creating brine for the lacto-fermentation process. 

The menu offers gulyásleves, classic Hungarian 

goulash with braised beef, potatoes, carrots and 

nokedli (dumpling-like pinched noodles) and töltött 

káposzta, marinated cabbage rolls with fermented 

leaves stuffed with minced pork and rice served 

with sauerkraut and tejföl (sour cream). There 

are traditional töltött paprikas, which are peppers 

stuffed with ground pork and rice and a sauce of 

paprika and tomato. Marhapörkölt is Hungarian 

beef stew served with nokedli and pickled 

vegetables. The Csárda Platter for two consists 

of marinated pork steak, breaded cod, garlicpaprika 

meatballs, potato wedges, steamed rice 

and homemade coleslaw. There is also a Pig Roast 

Platter for two consisting of house-made liver 

sausage, garlic and paprika sausage, marinated 

pork steak, potato wedges and sauerkraut. 

The designation “Hungary’s favourite cake” 

is given to somlói Galuska, a decadent, trifle-like 

dessert composed of sponge cake layered with 

vanilla custard, chocolate, walnut and whipped 

cream, served here in a coupe glass. There are fresh 

and flaky strudels made in-house with apple or 

cherry filling. An Eastern European staple, these 

strudels are firmly of the Hungarian school. In 

season, the restaurant features fresh strawberries 

sourced from their neighbour Millar’s Berry Farms 


and strawberry palacsinta (crepes) become a 

house specialty. Aranka features Hungarian 

wines, beer and the world-famous pálinka, 

the traditional, fermented fruit brandy. 

4 

5 


7447 Longwoods Road, London 

519-652-9696 

aranka.ca 

tuesday–thursday: 11:30 am–9 pm 

friday & saturday: 11:30 am–10 pm 

sunday: 11:30 am–9 pm 

monday: closed 

4 Chicken Paprikash: Stewed quarter chicken with creamy 

paprika sauce over nokedli 

5 Somlói Galuska: “Hungary’s favourite cake” — a decadent, 

trifle-like cake seen here with fresh Apple Strudel 

6 Hortobágyi Palacsintae: Savoury chicken stuffed crepe with 

paprika and sour cream. 

6


The Marienbad is one of downtown 

London’s landmark restaurants where 

you are sure to find European clientele, 

who come for the relaxed ambience and 

traditional offerings. More than half the items 

on the menu are dishes the Marienbad has been 

serving since 1974. The defining characteristics 

of the cuisine are traditionally Czech and 

deeply connected to other Central European 

dishes due to ever-changing borders. 

Marienbad endured construction outside 

the restaurant for two years while Fanshawe 

College was being built at the site of the 

former Kingsmill’s Department Store. Times 

were difficult. Owner Jerry Pribil has said 

he was indebted and thankful to his loyal 

clientele and dedicated staff. Without them, 

the Marienbad would not have survived. Pribil 

persevered, keeping staffing to a minimum. 

Fortunately, Pribil had additional employment 

teaching hotel and restaurant management in 

the United States and Europe. 

Chef Klaus Campbell, originally from 

Germany, took over the kitchen in 1988 when 

he became the head chef. Chef’s thick and 

creamy dill pickle and potato soup is, to many 

people who question the pickle, surprisingly 

tangy and complex. Especially popular are 

house specialties like goulash with Bohemian 

dumplings and earthy chicken paprikash 

served with Haluska (cabbage and noodles). 

The Carlsbad rouladen is thinly sliced beef 

wrapped around ham, a gerkin and egg and 

served with dumplings. 

Schnitzels have always been a mainstay at 

the Marienbad, and they are more varied than 

you might imagine. The ideal schnitzel has a 

crispy, dry crust that rises like a soufflé and 

shatters with the touch of a fork, revealing 

tender, thinly-pounded meat within. A variety 


Marienbad Restaurant: A Czech-Inspired Classic 

Marienbad has offered a taste 

of Europe since 1974 in one of 

downtown London’s oldest 

heritage buildings (c. 1854) 

of classic schnitzels are on offer, such as crisp 

Jäger schnitzel with a creamy mushroom sauce, 

and Franz Josef schnitzel stuffed with ham 

and Swiss cheese and lightly seasoned with 

mustard. Classic Wiener schnitzel (meaning 

Viennese cutlet) is prepared traditionally 

with veal. During the Schnitzel fest at the 

Recently renovated, the 

restaurant exudes Old 

World style and elegance 

Marienbad, they offer a variety of schnitzels 

that include Devil Schnitzel, which is natural 

pork topped with sautéed mushrooms and hot 

peppers. There is also Franconian Schnitzel, 

which consists of breaded pork topped with 

roasted bacon, mushrooms, cheese and 

Hollandaise sauce. Other iterations include 

lamb and tuna steak schnitzels. 

Classic Czech open-face sandwiches are all 

about the taste, and characterized as being rich 

and complex in flavour. Creamy chicken liver 

pâté piped open-face onto pumpernickel and 

garnished with green olives is reminiscent of 

quality liverwurst. At lunch there is a Russian 

egg, an open-face sandwich with a chopped 

egg on potato salad topped with salami, ham, 

Swiss cheese and caviar. The traditional Czech 

Ploughman has house potato salad on French 

stick topped with mildly smoked 

Prague Ham. Wenceslas cheese, 

a Czech classic, is Edam cheese, 

coated with breadcrumbs and 

deep-fried to gooey perfection. 

Sharing similar characteristics 

in aroma and flavour, beer and 

cheese complement each other. 

The Ploughman and Wenceslas 

Cheese are ideally suited to 

beer pairings. The natural 

carbonation in beer elevates 

the palate and accentuates the 

nuances in the cheese.


Marienbad shares a seasonal 

European-style sidewalk patio 

with partner Chaucer’s Pub 

There is apple strudel, a variety of cakes 

and several versions of palatschinka with 

liqueurs —similar to French crêpes — thin 

and golden brown, served with chocolate 

or hot raspberries. We like the semi-frozen 

Marienbad Bombe, a house specialty with 

brandied fruit over ice cream. 

The adjoining Chaucer’s Pub offers a casual 

ambience and is comfortable and pleasant, 

featuring a selection of craft beers and imports 


that will surprise the most discerning patrons. 

Try one of the 12 European beers on tap, 

poured and presented according to tradition. 

While there is an emphasis on Belgian beers, 

there are roughly 85 different brews from six 

continents. As well, there is an exceptional 

selection of single malt scotches on offer. 

The Marienbad boasts a variety of private 

rooms such as the “Fireplace Room” that seats 

up to 85 people, the “Prague Room” seating 

up to 45, and the “Atrium” with its mural of 

Carlsbad, which seats up to 40 guests. 

The Marienbad’s most preferred dish is their 

celebrated Wiener schnitzel — no matter 

what time of the year. The second most 

requested crowd-pleaser is the hearty goulash. 


122 Carling Street, London 

519-679-9940 

marienbad.ca 

monday–thursday: 11:30 am–10:00 pm 

friday & saturday: 11:30 am–10:30 pm 

sunday: 4:30 pm–9 pm 

Restaurant photos by STEVE GRIMES. 

BRYAN LAVERY, Eatdrink Food Editor and Writer at 

Large, brings years of professional experience in the 

restaurant and hospitality business, as a chef, restaurant 

owner ,and partner in the culinary experience and 

consulting business, Lavery Culinary Group. Always on 

the lookout for stories Eatdrink should be telling, he helps 

shape the magazine under his byline and behind the scenes. 

2 

1 

1 Hungarian Goulash is tender Beef in a hearty sauce 

with Bohemian dumplings 

2 Jäger Schnitzel, tender pan-seated pork served with a 

decadent mushroom gravy brandy.

Stratford is 

more than 

great theatre

visitstratford.ca 

@StratfordON 

"A fun place to shop 

for housewares and gifts!" 

WATSON'S 

CHELSEA BAZAAR 

84 Ontario St. Stratford 

watsonsofstratford.com 

519-273-1790


SPONSORED BY 

Road Trips 





What is more exciting than 

planning a winter culinary 

getaway? Toronto’s Eataly 

offers the type of authentic 

culinary experience that is sought out not 

just by locals, but food and drink enthusiasts 

from around the globe. This is Canada’s first 

iteration, and given its success it seems likely 

that Montreal will be a contender for Eataly in 

the not too distant future. 

In January 2007 the Italian visionary and 

entrepreneur Oscar Farinetti converted an 

abandoned vermouth factory in Torino into 

the first Eataly location. He had travelled 

across the 20 regions that comprise Italy to 

locate and select a variety of quality regional 

products which embrace Slow Food’s partner’s 

qualifications for food that is good, clean, 

and fair. (Slow Food is the grassroots global 

organization founded in 1989 to combat the 

erosion of local food culture, tradition, and 

encroaching fast-food culture. The initiative has 

evolved into a global movement that engages 

millions of people in over 160 countries.) 

Toronto’s Eataly, the company’s 40th 

location, occupies 50,000 square feet and 

employs more than 300 people. A $100 

million redevelopment of Toronto’s Manulife 

La Piazza is a restaurant in the heart of the store, 

inspired by the traditional Italian town square. 

Centre, a prestige address located at Bay and 

Bloor, added a glass façade to the property 

to incorporate the new retail space. Inside 

the Centre, a reconfiguration and a shuffling 

of several crucial tenant spaces allowed for 

the construction of the high-concept Eataly 

Toronto — a vast culinary utopia. 

Eataly reflects the distinguishing characteristics 

of the biodiversity of the Italian culinary 

repertoire, focusing on the finest regionalspecific 

products and traditional ingredients 

Italy has to offer. Also on offer is a selection 

of small-scale specialty products from dairy 

farmers, cheesemakers and butchers. This 

is part of Eataly’s philosophy of procuring 

locally-sourced products. 

The main entrance to Eataly and Il Gran Caffe, a fullservice 

Italian Coffee Bar, is on Bloor Street east of Bay.


January/February 2020 | 25


You can sip 

Italian wine, 

a Negroni, 

Aperol 

Spritz or 

other Italian 

aperitivo 

while you 

shop, peruse 

the aisles 

or partake 

in a tasting 

or cooking 

class. There 

is seating 

La Scuola (Cooking School) for 400 in 

the three 

restaurants. A fourth, Trattoria Milano, will 

open soon on the main floor next to Il Gran 

Caffé, an upscale full-service coffee bar from 

Italian coffee roaster illy. The ground floor 

caffé offers high-quality coffee-based drinks, 

confectionery, panini, and a selection of 

Italian wines, beer and spirits. 

There are multiple market counters, 

including a butcher, a baker, a cheesemonger, 


fresh mozzarella counter, olive oil and 

balsamico tasting bar, and fresh pasta and 

pizza counters. There are also fruit and 

vegetable stands in the food emporium. Eataly 

features several bars, a cooking school and 

an in-house brewery (in partnership with 

Toronto’s Indie Alehouse Brewing Co.). 

Menu offerings are traditional and straightforward, 

featuring hand-crafted and quality 

Italian ingredients, executed with skill and an 

eye to detail. In Italy, gastronomy developed 

along provincial lines. Until the unification 

of Italy in 1861, there was no national Italian 

cuisine. The reality of Italian cookery is that 

it is a merger of distinct and diverse regional 

cuisines and their subsets. The home still 

remains the safeguard of Italian indigenous 

cooking and culinary traditions, and this is 

reflected in the restaurant’s offerings. 

On our first visit we ate at La Piazza, 

a restaurant in the heart of the store. Its 

concept was inspired by the traditional 

Italian town square. The tables are situated 

close together. We arrived promptly at 11 

a.m. to get a good table overlooking Balmuto 

Street. La Piazza does not take reservations, 

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1 2 3 

and the restaurant filled up quickly. From a 

fairly extensive menu, we ordered agnolotti 

del plin brasato con burro, (Piedmonteseinspired 

pork- and veal-stuffed pasta) with 

a traditional sauce of butter and sage and 

Parmigiano-Reggiano. Agnolotti del plin’s 

name is derived from the regional dialect for 

“pinch,” which is how the pasta is formed. 

This course was followed by a creamy Burrata 

(fresh cow milk cheese) served at room 

1 Pasta Fresca Counter: Fresh Pasta Handmade Daily 

2 Piedmontese-style agnolotti stuffed with pork and 

veal with butter and Parmigiano-Reggiano 

3 A Chef at La Scuola 

temperature, from the region of Puglia, and a 

side of house-marinated green olives with bay 

leaf, chilli and citrus. Next we had the thickcrust 

Capricciosa pizza baked in a small round 

pan and topped with Gran Biscotto prosciutto, 

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The Formaggi Counter: Tiers of 

Wheels of Parmigiano-Reggiano 

Cotta Rovagnati (cooked ham from the region 

of Lombardy), olives (there are an estimated 

538 cultivars of olives in Italy), artichokes, 

homemade hand-stretched mozzarella and 

Mutti-brand tomato sauce. Three distinct 

regional types of pizza are available in 

different areas. Servers are knowledgeable 

about the cuisine. 

Fresh kinds of region-specific pasta, 

prepared from scratch on-site, include fiore 

de zucca (literally pumpkin flower), ravioli de 

ricotta e spinaci, cacao e pepe alla Romana, 

black squid-ink linguine (which I purchased 

fresh for the 13-meatless-course “Vigilia” feast 

on Christmas Eve) campanelle, bucantini, 

quadrati and several other varieties. Every 


fresh pasta shape (we counted over a dozen) 

is extruded through a bronze mould and airdried 

to ensure the pasta is of the optimal 

consistency to stick to the sauce. You can 

purchase pasta by weight at the counter and 

have it packaged in a pristine, white cardboard 

box for takeaway, or you can order different 

kinds of pasta to eat in one of the restaurants. 

There are over 400 different varieties of 

regional cheese produced in Italy. Many 

varieties differ according to region and 

production method. A dedicated formaggio 

counter features many hand-crafted cheeses 

on rotation, including fresh types procured 

locally from Canadian suppliers. There is a 

4-tier shelf of Parmigiano-Reggiano wheels, 

each one crafted with 500 litres of milk and 

priced around $2,000. In Italy, certification 

laws require that Parmigiano-Reggiano 

be made according to a specific recipe and 

production methods, and only within specific 

geographical regions. 

Executive pastry chef Katia Delogu trained 

in Torino, the home of Eataly’s pastry 

program. Her team brings a passion for pure 

and simple ingredients to Eataly’s Pasticceria, 

from crunchy cantucci to buttery biscotti to 

Delogu’s mother’s take on tiramisu. Signature 

dolci (sweet desserts, cakes and pastries) 

exemplify the art of Italian confectionary. 

Torronato is a stunning hazelnut-nougat 

studded mascarpone cream, sweetened with 

honey, layered with espresso-soaked rice 

sponge cake, and finished with cocoa-dusted 

chocolate squares. There is millefoglie alla 

gianduja, flaky puff pastry layered with 

gianduja (paste made of chocolate and 

ground hazelnuts) pastry cream, frosted 

with Chantilly cream and finished with 

crushed hazelnuts and gianduja. There is the 

incredible Italian gourmet chocolatier Venchi, 

a cannoli station, and an artisanal gelato 

station featuring flavours such as maple and 

pistachio. 

As an Italian culinary aficionado, student 

and teacher, trips to Italy have been among 

my favourite culinary journeys. Eataly brings 

an authentic Italian experience to downtown 

Toronto. 

The Enoteca Bar 

BRYAN LAVERY, Eatdrink Food Editor and Writer 

at Large, brings years of professional experience in 

the restaurant and hospitality business, as a chef, 

restaurateur and partner in the culinary consulting 

business and experience provider, Lavery Culinary Group.


eatdrink 

2020 London 

Wine & Food Show 

Profiles of 

Excellence 

SUPPLEMENT 


Winning Together 


A Proudly Canadian Spirit

30 

eatdrink 




Craft Beer that Rings True 

The Cowbell Experience 

Cowbell Kitchen, the restaurant at the brewery, specializes in truly 

local farm-to-table fare, with over 75% of the food served sourced in 

Huron County, paired beautifully with Cowbell beers and Farm Exclusive 

draught offerings. The Cowbell team curates a fresh, seasonal menu 

with daily features, delicious 

appetizers, farm-made 

burgers, wood-fired pizzas 

and vegan, vegetarian, 

dairy-free and gluten-free 

selections. Guest favourites 

include the ‘Royale Pizza’ 

and ‘The Wagyu’ burger, 

featuring locally grown 

Wagyu beef from Grazing Meadows Wagyu located 20 kilometers from 

The Farm. Cowbell beers are highlighted throughout the menu, along 

with an impressive list of farm-made cocktails and Huron County wines. 

“We would like everyone to feel welcome at Cowbell,” said Grant 

Sparling, Chief Development Officer. “Enjoy a pint of craft beer and 

experience a taste of what Huron County has to offer.” 

With 26,000 square feet to explore, guests may take a guided or selfguided 

tour and enjoy unobstructed catwalk views of almost everything, 

including the state-of-the-art brewhouse. Thresher’s Hall and The Loft 

provide one-of-a-kind settings 

for private events and intimate 

weddings. Whether you’re 

stopping in for a pint, shopping 

at the Cowbell General 

Store or celebrating a special 

occasion, Cowbell offers something 

for everyone. 

Cowbell Brewing Co. is Canada’s Destination 

Brewery. Family-friendly and accessible, this 

award-winning brewery is committed to 

making world-class craft beer. And making 

a difference. Taking generations of business 

expertise into craft brewing, Steven and 

the third generation, Grant Sparling II, lead 

an ambitious team that is committed to 

outstanding beer, local food and memorable 

experiences at the Cowbell Farm. 

Community- 

Inspired Brews 

Cowbell’s skilled brewing team creates 

exceptional recipes using the highest 

quality ingredients. The Founders’ 

Series beers are available year-round, 

representing Cowbell’s creative 

interpretations of six classic beer styles. 

Each beer is named for remarkable, true 

characters of Blyth’s past and the story 

on every can shares a piece of Blyth’s 

history with the world. 

For more adventurous beer fans, 

the Renegade Series and the 

Anniversary Series, featuring 

Almanac and Reunion, a solera-style 

beer, explore courageous flavours while 

showcasing the talent of the brewing 

team. Act fast! These specialty beers are 

only available in limited quantities.

Commitment to the Environment 

Cowbell is committed to being a good steward of the land, just as generations 

of farmers have before. Whether through the brewery building or design and 

operation, Cowbell is sincere in its efforts to maintain highly sustainable practices. 

Beyond the beautiful wood-frame structure, Cowbell has incorporated 

building design, materials, and best of class operations to improve efficiency 

and to reduce the impact on the local environment. Cowbell also participates 

in a carbon sequestration program, achieved through an onsite reforestation 

project consisting of 17,000 trees and pollinators. 

In Your Community 

Cowbell gives back with the sale of each and every pint or can 

of beer. From the very first pint sold in May 2016, Cowbell has 

donated five-cents to their Greener Pastures Community 

Fund. This fund supports life-enhancing programs to improve 

children’s health and well-being at Ontario’s four children’s 

hospitals: Children’s Hospital in London, SickKids in 

Toronto, McMaster Children’s Hospital in Hamilton and the 

Children’s Hospital of Eastern Ontario in Ottawa. The fund 

also provides support for programming at the Canadian Centre 

for Rural Creativity in Blyth. By the end of November 2019, 

$360,000 has been donated to Cowbell’s community partners. 

“For every pint or can of Cowbell sold in your community, 

the donation is to your local children’s hospital,” says Sparling. 

“Thanks to friends of Cowbell, we have accomplished amazing 

things — and we are 

just getting started. 

A nickel can make a 

meaningful impact in 

the life of a child facing 

health complications, 

and we are grateful 

for the support of the 

communities around us.” 


Cowbell is designed to be about more than great beer. 

To the Sparlings, Cowbell is about family, economic 

development and community success. It is about working 

hard to craft a winning recipe for their success and the 

success of people and communities. It’s a commitment 

to working together and winning together. 


40035 Blyth Rd, Blyth 

844-523-4724 

cowbellbrewing.com 

Profiles of Excellence eatdrink 31 

Cowbell General Store 

The Cowbell experience does not end when 

you leave. The Cowbell General Store features 

Cowbell gear — most of it made in Canada 

— and Cowbell beer. Take home something to 

remember your trip to The Farm. Cowbell beer is 

available in cans and growlers, and small-batch 

beers are available in 750mL and 1.5L bottles. The 

General Store also features a selection of “guest 

favourite” Cowbell Kitchen products that have been 

developed with local businesses, including a line 

of rubs and sauces with Garlic Box from Hensall, 

custom roasted coffee with ShopBike Coffee in 

Bayfield, and custom chocolate treats with Rhèo 

Thompson in Stratford. Most merchandise is also 

available at the Cowbell Online Store.

32 

eatdrink 


A Proudly Canadian Spirit 


Innovation Using Ontario Milk 

A truly remarkable spirit is 

the product of the character 

of its ingredients, the 

mastery of its making and 

the depth of its story. 

Environmental & Social Benefits 

All spirits are made by fermenting sugar. Dairy Distillery uses a sugar 

rarely used to make spirits: milk sugar. Milk sugar, or lactose, is a natural, 

healthy sugar. It was first fermented to make alcohol by the Mongols over 

a thousand years ago. While milk sugar produces a cleaner, smoother, 

gluten-free spirit, it never became popular with distillers due to its high 

cost and production challenges. 

Milk from 3,500 Ontario dairy farms is sent to large processors where 

the cream is removed to make butter and the proteins concentrated to 

make ultrafiltered milk used by cheese and yogurt makers. When making 

ultrafiltered milk, a sugar rich liquid called milk permeate is produced. 

Most milk permeate is dumped, creating a 

strain on the environment and a disposal cost 

for dairy farmers. 

In this “waste,” Dairy Distillery Founder & 

CEO Omid McDonald saw an opportunity to 

make world-class spirits with the potential 

to support hard working local farmers and 

the environment. In collaboration with the 

University of Ottawa, a process to convert 

milk permeate into an unbelievably smooth 

spirit has been perfected. Thanks to this 

process, anything that Dairy Distillery 

doesn’t bottle can be safely put back into 

the environment. And buying milk permeate 

helps Ontario dairy farmers.

Vodkow: More than “Local Vodka” 

What does innovation taste like? In a word: DELICIOUS! One could call this 

“local vodka” but Dairy Distillery has branded their unique clear spirit as 

Vodkow. It is both lactose and sugar free. 

It’s subtly sweet on the nose with traces of 

vanilla. The palate provides 

a velvety smooth experience 

that fades beautifully into a 

sparkling clean finish accented 

by a hint of whipped cream. 

The spirit has character to 

be enjoyed on its own while 

being versatile to mix in your 

favourite cocktail. 

Dairy Heritage 

Meets State-ofthe-Art 

Design 

Dairy Distillery built its state-of-the-art micro distillery in Almonte, 

a small 19th-century mill town situated along the scenic Canadian 

Mississippi River, a short drive from Ottawa. Almonte has become a 

foodie destination of note, and its limestone mill buildings have been 

lovingly preserved and now house an eclectic mix of boutiques, craft 

shops and galleries. Dairy Distillery is proud to be part of this inspiring 

community and has planted roots in Almonte for generations to come. 

A reflection of our dairy heritage and Dairy Distillery’s modern 

outlook, the building is a perfect union of agricultural and contemporary 

design. A 30-foot pitched roof supported by gorgeous Douglas Fir timbers 

creates a stunning workspace for the crafting of fine spirits. Germanmade 

copper Christian Carl stills are proudly displayed in an all-glass 

front facade. Consistent with its environmental mission, the distillery 

uses the latest conservation technology including radiant floors, heat 

exchangers and water reclamation. 

Tours & Tastings 

Available 

at the LCBO 

Vodkow 

(750 ml) 

$35.95 

Profiles of Excellence eatdrink 33 

Gingerbread White Russian Cocktail 

Fermented, Distilled & Bottled at: 

34 Industrial Drive, Almonte ON 

613-256-6136 

dairydistillery.com 

Enjoy a Vodkow sample at the distillery store. 

Free tours are available on request during opening 

hours (a tour takes about 15 minutes). You’ll also 

find Vodkow in two sizes and merchandise for sale. 

Shop online and have Vodkow sent right to your 

door. And show your support for the moovement 

with great Dairy Distillery gear and apparel!



Beer 


Recommendations Outside the Average Comfort Zone 

By GEORGE MACKE 

Sipping a fine beverage isn’t just 

for fans of wine and whiskey. 

Many beer drinkers are moving on 

from quaffing the mild tastes of 

cream ales, ambers, and lagers in favour of 

savouring the tastes of patiently-brewed 

craft beers. 

From wax seals covering bottle caps, to 

walls of bourbon or wine barrels, to the 

Flanders Red by Forked River, London 

— Available in vintages from 2016, 2017 and 

2018, Flanders Red is a Flemish-style beer 

aged in wine barrels. It has flavours of black 

sourcing of intriguing hops, there are many 

tip-offs as to what constitutes a beer meant to 

be enjoyed with contemplation. 

Generally, these beers have a higher alcohol 

content and are dark. In other cases, sourcing 

of new or rare-to-Canada varieties of hops 

makes them intriguing. Frequently, these are 

seasonals, meaning once the batch is sold out it 

will be unavailable for a year or more. 

cherries, plums and red currants. It’s strong 

in alcohol at 7.3 per cent, but not quite the 

beastly Reforest Kelly, another Forked River 

sipper which measured 11.5 per cent alcohol.


Flanders Red — the style 

has been dubbed “the 

Burgundy of Belgium” 

— is quite sour and, 

while its appeal 

among beer drinkers 

is limited, those who 

like it like it a lot. 

Burton Ale by Anderson Craft Ales, London 

— Do you enjoy checking out lesser-known 

beer styles? Anderson has been known to 

unearth several for its annual beer festival 

(Kentucky Common, anyone?). 

Burton ale is a style named for 

Burton-on-Trent, England, 

which was once a leading 

brewing centre in the U.K. 

Think balanced and 

bready. Anderson’s 

version is 5.2 per 

cent alcohol. 

Reunion 1st Solera Vintage by Cowbell 

Brewing, Blyth — This is Cowbell’s risktaking 

blended beer. Cowbell is blending beers 

and releasing the aged results each year at the 

end of November. This first release from the 

distinctive 

matte black 

tank sitting 

next to the 

Cowbell bar 

is a blend of 

barley wine 

and imperial stout. Available in conditioned 

bottles at the Cowbell store, Reunion can 

be cellared for years. The taste is not for the 

meek. 

Steampunk Sour by Railway City 

Brewing, St. Thomas — While Railway City 

seems to be tilting towards 

approachable, broad 

appeal beers, Steampunk 

Sour is different. 

There are flavours of 

blackberries and dark 

cherries, and it’s the 

tartness, not the meagre 

4 per cent alcohol, which 

makes this more of a sipper 

and less of a beer to quaff. 


Dark Side Chocolate Stout by Upper 

Thames Brewing, Woodstock — Rich 

and delicious, Dark Side is aged on roasted 

chocolate nibs from the 

Ivory Coast via Woodstock’s 

Habitual Chocolate. It’s 

not just a post-dinner 

beer or a pair-mewith-ice-cream 

choice. Dark Side 

also pairs wonderfully 

with the creamy Dark 

Side of the Moo cheese 

from Gunn’s Hill. Not 

coincidentally, that cheese has 

been soaked for four days in Dark Side. 

40210 Coffee Blonde by Refined Fool, 

Sarnia — This may be a first. Coffee-infused 

beers are everywhere, but with dark stouts, 

not crushable blondes. Refined Fool 

used beans from Ground 

Up Roastery in Sarnia 

for what sounds on 

paper to be the craft 

beer version of a 

Tim Horton’s coffee. 

The name is a nod 

to Sarnia’s two main 

highways.


B’Urban Legend Oatmeal Stout by London 

Brewing — Aged in 

bourbon barrels, a fresh 

batch of this returning 

beer was released in 

December. Oatmeal 

stouts are a popular 

style at craft 

breweries. The use 

of oatmeal provides 

a smooth, rich body to the stout. 

Rolling in the DIPA by Storm Stayed, 

London — What’s a list of quality beers to 

sip without a double IPA? Rolling in the DIPA 

comes in at a staggering 68 IBU and is a strong 

8.2 per cent alcohol. Double IPAs crank up 

the hop content to twice or more the usual 

amount, 

creating a 

glorious 

taste 

experience 

for hopheads 

who’ve become bored with regular 

IPAs. For others, double IPAs like this are best 

paired with a glass of water. 


Soos’ Juices by Natterjack Brewing, West 

Lorne — Unusual in that 

this strong, 9 per cent 

alcohol, uses so-called 

chocolate malt (named for 

its colour, not its flavour) 

to bring a nutty flavour to 

the beer. 

Tail Feather by Black 

Swan, Stratford — Tail Feather is an India 

brown ale. Think of it as a 

marriage between a familiar 

IPA and a brown ale, both 

hoppy and malty. The 

Black Swan version is 6 

per cent alcohol and in IPA 

territory with a bitterness 

measurement of 43 IBU. Tasting 

notes refer to chestnut and burnt sugar. 

Dingman Dark Lager by 

Hamlet Hall, Stratford — 

Featuring local Midnight 

Wheat Malt, Dingman Dark 

Lager, aka Schwartzbier, is 

earthy, smooth and crisp. 

It’s 5.6 per cent alcohol and 

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the anti-IPA, with only token hop bitterness. 

German-inspired, the name is a nod to the 

former publisher of the local daily newspaper in 

whose old building Hamlet Hall now operates. 

Galactic Golden Imperial Wheat by 

Toboggan Brewing and Powerhouse 

Brewing, London — Gone? Coming back? 

We’re not certain Galactic will be available 

by the time beer fans read this list. This 

intriguing collaboration between two of 

London’s craft brewers was 

first poured midfall. 

This style-bender is 9 per cent alcohol 

with a tropical fruit taste thanks to Galaxy 

and Mosaic hops. There’s a hint of bitterness, 

but mostly this one’s about the malt. 

GEORGE MACKE is a Londoner with a passion for 

craft beer. 

NEW 

WINTER 

MENU 

FLIGHTS & BITES 

HALF PRICE Sharing Plates & Oysters 

Tuesday–Friday from 3:30–5:30pm 

SUNDAY INDUSTRY NIGHTS 

20% OFF! 

Join us for Londonlicious! Jan 10–Feb 2 

TUES–SAT Lunch & Dinner 11:30am to Close 

SUNDAY Brunch 11am & Dinner 

449 Wharncliffe Road South 

519.914.2699



Wine 


Local Red Wines to Warm You Up 

By GARY KILLOPS 

The Christmas tree has been taken 

down and you have put all the 

ornaments away in boxes for 

another year. The holidays are over 

and baby, it’s cold outside. Days are short, 

nights are long and for the next few months 

we will all be longing for those hot summer 

days when we have that glass of crisp, 

refreshing white wine in our hands. 

For many of us there is a seasonality to the 

type of wine we drink. More white wines in 

the summer, and red wines in the winter. In 

the winter months, we crave comfort wines 

— big, bold, and complex red wines that 

stimulate our taste buds. 

Merlots, cabernets, pinot noirs and 

other red blends offer what we are seeking 

during the winter doldrums. Here for your 

consideration are some must-sip reds from 

our local wineries. 

Pelee Island 

Lighthouse 

Cabernet Franc 

(LCBO# 145441, 

$13.95) — Did 

you know that 

cabernet franc 

and sauvignon 

blanc are the 

parent grapes 

to Cabernet 

Sauvignon? 

This cab franc 

from Pelee 

Island Winery 

is a 

tasty 

valuepriced 

wine 

that 

delivers 

a 

good 

bang for 

the buck! Red 

cherry fruit with 

a hint of green pepper 

notes. Juicy, mediumbodied 

and, while the finish is 

dry, the fruit offers an impression 

of sweetness. Very easy drinking on 

its own, or 

consider pairing 

with burgers or a 

hearty winter dish such as 

meatballs in tomato sauce.


Lifting Spirits and Sales 

CREW Cabernet Franc 2016 (VINTAGES# 

315945, $22.95) — I’ve probably said this 

before, but it is worth mentioning again. 

The red wines from Colchester Ridge Estate 

Winery (CREW) are always superior. 

You cannot go wrong picking up 

any of the red wines, and this one 

does not disappoint. It is a very 

complex cab franc. Ripe red berry 

fruits, baking spices, turned earth, 

leather, and vanilla notes. The 

alcohol content approaches 14% 

giving the wine a full-bodied 

mouthfeel and the acidity is 

very crisp and cleansing. While 

you might not be able to fire up 

the BBQ for a few months, this 

cab franc will pair well with a 

grilled steak or Sunday roast and 

potatoes. 

Niagara’s Finest Small Batch 

Wine, Beer and Cider Products 

inspiirit.ca 

Tina Roberts 

troberts@inspiirit.ca 

Our Wine, Your CREW 

The new CREW Winery & Gallery is officially open! 

The tasting bar is open year round, and a new galley 

lunch menu launches March 4. Taste local wines, see 

original art, and take in our vineyard views. 

Colchester Ridge Estate Winery 

108 Essex County Road 50, Harrow ON 

519-738-9800 

@crewinery


Cooper’s Hawk 2017 Cabernet Franc 

(LCBO# 585950, $19.95) — This is an LCBO 

general list wine that can be found 

in the Ontario VQA wine section 

of many LCBO’s. The 2017 vintage 

of this wine can now be found on 

the shelf and this is the one you 

should pick if given the choice 

between the 2016 or 2017 vintage. 

Ripe red berry fruits, spice, 

herbs, and exotic violet flowers. 

Mouth watering acidity is a good 

indication that this wine is very 

food-friendly. Medium plus firm 

tannins suggest that you could 

also cellar this one for a few 

years, if you can resist 

the temptation to 

open sooner. Consider 

pairing with roast pork, 

beef tenderloin or lamb. 

Pelee Island Pinot Noir (LCBO# 

135939, $14.95) — Pelee Island 

Winery makes a few different 

pinot noirs at different price 

points. After the Christmas 

holidays it is time to buckle 

down and become a little more 

budget-conscious, as all those 

bills start rolling in. For a pinot 

noir priced under $15 this one is 

an excellent value 

Pelee Island Baco Noir (LCBO# 

485128, $12.95) — Baco noir is a French 

American hybrid red wine grape 

that is very winter-hardy and grows 

well in cool climate regions such as 

Ontario, Nova Scotia, New York, 

and Michigan. Deep dark purple, 

almost inky in colour, black berry 

and plum fruits, smoky notes and 

high acidity. Baco has a rustic 

quality and can be kind of edgy. 

But when made right, it is very 

fruity and lush. Pelee’s baco noir 

delivers and is worthy of opening 

on one of these cold winter 

evenings. 


Viewpointe Estate Cabernet 

Merlot (LCBO# 220723, $13,95) 

— When this red blend from 

Viewpointe Estate Winery in Lake 

Erie North Shore first appeared 

on the shelf at the LCBO it is was 

$12.95. Some seven or eight years 

later it is only a dollar more. That 

beats the rate of inflation. This 

wine drinks more like a twentydollar 

red blend. It is an excellent 

value. Red cherry, blueberry, and 

plum fruit notes, black earth 

and saddle leather. That’s a lot of 

complexity in a fourteen-dollar 

bottle of wine! 

Sprucewood Shores Estate Winery 

Warm ‘n’ Cozy Mulled Wine (LCBO# 

348524, $11.95) — And finally, a wine 

that will keep you warm and cozy 

in the winter. Mulled wine origins 

can be traced back to the United 

Kingdom. Basically, the recipe for 

mulled wine is to mix one large 

cupful of water for every half 

litre of wine, adding sugar and 

spice to taste. The spices usually 

used for mulled wine are cloves, 

grated nutmeg, and cinnamon. 

The concoction is usually heated 

before serving. Sprucewood 

Shores Estate Winery has taken 

most the work out of the mix 

and suggests that you empty 

the bottle into a pot and warm 

to your preference. Garnish with 

cinnamon sticks or a slice of orange. That will 

warm you up! 

GARY KILLOPS is a CAPS 

Certified Sommelier who loves to talk, 

taste, and write about wine. He shares his 

tasting notes on EssexWineReview.com



The BUZZ 

Culinary Community Notes 

New and Notable 

London 

We recently attended the Pillar Nonprofit Network 

Community Innovation Awards, where all finalists 

are inspiring and deserving of recognition. 

Community Innovation Award finalists included 

Human Environment Analysis Lab (HEAL) at 

Western University, 519 Pursuit (a non-profit 

helping the homeless) and the winner, the 

London Food Coalition (consisting of 23 agencies 

invested in food security and eliminating food 

waste). 519 Pursuit went on to win the Community 

Choice Award. Urban Roots (a non-profit that 

revitalizes underused land for agriculture in the 

City of London, producing high-quality organic 

vegetables and herbs which are distributed directly 

to consumers and social enterprises) won the 

Community Impact Award. Several of the finalists 

were lauded for their work in recognizing food 

security, and all for supporting our community’s 

most vulnerable citizens. All of these essential 

initiatives deserve our support. 

The London Wine & Food Show is ready to pop 

some corks in celebration of its 15th anniversary! 

Thursday, January 16 to Saturday, January 18 at the 

Western Fair District Agriplex. Tickets are now on 

sale. westernfairdistrict.com 

Located just west of London’s downtown core and 

its namesake Blackfriars Bridge, Betty Heydon’s 

Blackfriars Bistro is within walking distance of the 

core but, in Heydon’s words, “away from the hustle 

and bustle.” Located in one of London’s heritage 

neighbourhoods, the restaurant draws a loyal 

clientele for the innovative, farm-to-table inspired 

cuisine. Many know the restaurant not only for 

its stellar bistro dining but also for personalized 

catering services. 46 Blackfriars Street, London, 

519-667-4930, blackfriarsbistro.com 

London Brewing cares deeply about the quality of 

its ingredients and the sustainability of its products. 

It is one of two Certified Organic craft breweries in 

Ontario and one of less than 20 in all of Canada. 

London Brewing is a democratic enterprise owned 

by its employee members — they seek to create 

great beer, good jobs, and to have a positive impact 

on their community. 521 Burbrook Place, London, 

226-667-6363, londonbrewing.ca 

Petit Paris Crêperie & Pâtisserie is proud to 

announce that its sister company, The Coop 

Rotisserie, has a second location. The Coop Express 

drive through/takeout restaurant features such 

items as mouth-watering rotisserie chicken, 

sandwiches, hand-cut fries, mac ‘n’ cheese, soups, 

quiche and healthy salads from the Covent Garden 

Market location. 1146 Commissioners Rd E. 

Justin and Gregg Wolfe have opened Holy Diver, 

on the site of the former Nite Owl, next to the 

Early Bird Diner on Talbot between King and 

Exceptional Food. Outstanding Service. 

NORTH MOORE CATERING LTD THE RIVER ROOM CAFE & PRIVATE DINING 

During Londonlicious (Jan.10-Feb 2) THE RHINO LOUNGE BAKERY | COFFEE SHOPPE 

The River Room is open for 

Regular LUNCH Hours and open for 

www.northmoore.ca | www.theriverroom.ca 

DINNER Thurs, Fri & Sat Nights 519.850.2287 River Room | 519.850.5111 NMC /Rhino Lounge



York Street. Smack dab in the middle of Wortley 

Village, Wolfepack Company Bar is located next 

door to the premises that now houses the popular 

breakfast spot Little Bird. The Company Bar is 

accessible, welcoming and convivial with inspired 

cuisine that includes house-made charcuterie 

and small batches of seasonal or artisanal items. 

Quantities are limited to maintain a high level of 

quality. The resto seats about 60 customers, and 

will include two patios, one seating an additional 

45 patrons with another additional 30 seats at the 

100% Local — from Our Farmers to Your Table 

Hormone & Drug-Free 

Ontario Beef, Pork, Bison, Lamb & Chicken 

THE VILLAGE 

MEAT SHOP 

LOCAL - NATURAL - QUALITY 

WE ARE YOUR LONDON OUTLET FOR 

• Metzger Meat Products • Lena’s Lamb 

• Blanbrook Bison Farm • Little Sisters Chicken 

• Glengyle Farm Organics 

The Market at Western Fair District: SAT 8–3; SUN 10–2 

226-376-6328 • www.thevillagemeatshop.ca 

More than just a Coffee Shop! 

Keto Sweets, Bagels, 

Soup, Bulletproof Coffee 

& Even Homemade 

Keto Ice Cream! 

front of the restaurant. The menu is reminiscent 

of the best of the Wolfe of Wortley — but scaleddown. 

We are long-time fans of Chef Kyle Rose’s 

salumi underpinned by technique and skill and 

lots of deep flavours and good fat content. There is 

Coppa Cotta Carpaccio (salt-cured from the pig’s 

neck) with truffle, cremini mushroom, arugula and 

Manchego cheese. Other snacks include creamy 

chicken liver mousse and chicken fried mushrooms 

with hen of the woods (maitake), beer and Cheddar 

dip. The more extensive menu includes other 

house-made salumi items such as Lamb Prosciutto, 

Bone Marrow and Sunchokes with honey-garlic 

sunflower seeds and scallions. 145 Wortley Road, 

226-663-4567. The Wolfe brothers are anticipating 

the opening of Through Thick and Thin, an Old 

South pizzeria, in February. 

The organic and Mexican-inspired Ivanopoblano 

Restaurant opened in November to rave reviews. 

Specialties include quesadillas, huevos rancheros, 

corn-bean tacos and grilled cheese sandwiches. 

Ivan Santana-Barnes has been serving some of 

London’s best organic Latin-inspired food for the 

last four years from his food truck, and recently 

opened the compact but charming Ivanopoblano 

Restaurant at the corner of Wharncliffe and Emery 

Street with his partner. 390 Wharncliffe Road, 226- 

238-0868, ivanopoblano.com 

Owners Ricardo Cavaco from Bifana Boys and 

Chris Bunting from Goodah Gastrotruck are 

opening Out of the Deep Seafood Co. at The Market 

at Western Fair, featuring ethically-sourced and 

sustainable fresh fish and seafood. 

Petojo Food & Catering recently launched a new 

virtual restaurant, Rasa Indonesia. Chef Anthony 

Abdullah and co-founder Kimi Abdullah have 

developed a menu featuring popular Javanese 

and Balinese dishes. It includes traditional fare 

PATIO 

OPEN! 

Gluten-free 

Keto Charcuterie! 

Private Event 

Space 

Our Famous Dill Pickle Soup 

(All Soups Now Gluten-free!) 

Keto Christmas Toffee Pecan Baking 

Bars 

Pour Over Coffee Bar Open 7 Days a Week 

creambeanerycafe.com 

New 2nd Location! 

22469 Adelaide Rd, Mt Brydges 

226-490-0301 

825 Southdale Rd W, London 

519-652-1607


found at street stalls and countryside “warungs,” 

including nasi goreng (fried rice), mie goreng (fried 

noodles), beef rendang, shrimp laksa, soto mie 

bakso (meatball noodle soup) and lumpia (spring 

roll). In keeping with the company’s inclusive 

dining philosophy, the menu includes vegan and 

gluten-free options. The Abdullahs have responded 

with this online service to the popularity of their 

offerings at their weekend booth at The Market 

at Western Fair District. The menu is available 

through online ordering and delivery platforms. 

petojofood.com/rasa-delivery 

Locomotive Espresso, a locally-owned espresso 

bar, is expanding its five-year-old business with a 

second location in the Old South neighbourhood. 

Locomotive Espresso South will be brewing 

espresso-based beverages using Mod Bar/La 

Marzocco equipment, an under-counter system 

with above counter taps. The modular formation 

will create an open bar look, and its design offers 

excellent interaction and engagement with 

customers. Locomotive Espresso’s professionallytrained 

baristas are excited to introduce the 

latest in world-class coffees, brew methods, and 

equipment to the London community. Locomotive 

Espresso South forecasts its new location at 350 

Ridout Street South will open in February. 

Tina Roberts at InSpiirit represents some of 

Niagara’s hottest small-batch wines, beers, and 

ciders. She also provides curation services that 

bring the best of Niagara food and wine together, 

from menu pairing and planning, to catering and 

event consulting. Growing up in Niagara-on-thelake 

has given Tina such an appreciation for all 

the region has to offer that having the opportunity 

to share a taste of Niagara with her customers 

is a dream come true. She moved to London as a 

job recruiter but instead of matching people to 

employers, she’s now matching craft beer, wine 

and cider to restaurant menus, always with an eye 

to lifting spirits and the bottom line. Whether you 

are looking to up your bar game, or throw a unique 

party experience, put her passion for all things 

Niagara to work! inspiirit.ca 

Lunch at The River Room at Museum London, with 

Chef Jeff Fortner and his team features Pan Roasted 

Salmon, miso-honey sauce, soba noodles, scallion, 

julienned carrot and tomato. East Coast Lobster 

Roll with celery, scallion, mayo and topsider bun 

is a signature offering. House-cured Smoked Trout 

with toasted naan, house crackers, crème fraiche 

and accoutrements is a classic. Pastry Chef Michele 

“a gastronomical landmark for over 23 years” 

Booking NOW for 

Valentine’s Day! 

February 14 

Bistro & Catering 

Chef-driven Farm-to-Table Cuisine 

Dietary Needs Accommodated 

Ample Free Lunch Parking Mon–Fri 

Available for Private Dinner Parties Mon–Sat 

Gift Certificates Available 

46 Blackfriars Street, London | 519-667-4930 

blackfriarsbistro.com 

Make HAPPINESS 

a part of your day.

where art is 

Hey, Cupcake! a piece of cake 

The ORIGINAL 

LONDON CAKERY & 

GOURMET CUPCAKE 

BAKERY 

ASK US Custom Bakery • Walk-In Orders Available 

ABOUT OUR 

“RANDOM 

ACTS OF 

SWEETNESS!” 

CAMPAIGN 

www.heycupcake.ca 

1305 Riverbend Road, Suite 110 

519-433-CAKE (2253) 

STORE HOURS: Mon–Fri 11–7 

Saturday 10–5 • Sunday 11–4 

Traditional, Real Food. 

Real Good! 

Try our world famous Goulash Soup, Cabbage Rolls, 

Schnitzel, Chicken Paprikash, a Combination Platter, or 

many other mouthwatering Hungarian dishes. 

Gift 

Certificates 

Available 

519-652-9696 

aranka.ca 

aranka.csarda arankacsarda 

7447 Longwoods Road, London 

Our beautiful country setting is on Longwoods, the continuation of 

Wharncliffe Road, just outside Lambeth 


Lenhardt brings dessert offerings to a whole new 

level at both the Rhino Lounge and the River Room. 

Try the River Room’s signature Vanilla Bean Crème 

Brûlée and the Rhino’s popular Cronut Thursdays. 

There are over a dozen dishes on the Sunday 

Brunch prix fixe menu ($28), including a classic 

Cobb Salad with grilled chicken, bacon, blue cheese, 

hard-boiled egg and chopped tomato & cucumbers. 

Try the outstanding Maitake & Potato Skillet with 

boudin blanc, leeks, zucchini, a fried egg and toast. 

Museum London, 421 Ridout Street, 519-850-2287 

theriverroom.ca 

Forest City Experiences teaches you the history 

of the founding of the Covent Garden Market and 

points out some of the more interesting facts that 

only a true insider will know. Enjoy the Covent 

Garden Market and surrounding area with a wellknown 

chef and a friendly culinary expert. Meet at 

the Market Square entrance (across from Budweiser 

Gardens) and you’ll have a personal introduction to 

the Market’s culinary offerings and its passionate 

vendors. Eat and drink from a minimum of five 

unique spots, which may include an international 

foods vendor, cheesemonger, butcher, artisanal 

baker, small-batch coffee roaster or chocolatier. 

By the end of this progressive tasting experience, 

you’ll have sampled a series of offerings that add 

up to an authentic expression of Covent Garden’s 

culinary scene. This three-hour gastro experience 

will end with a cooking class using seasonal and 

locally-sourced ingredients, upstairs in the Market 

Kitchen. We promise you’ll leave at the end of the 

tour satiated and feeling like a local, having learned 

about the culinary hot spots in and around the 

Market. Available dates are January 4, January 17 

and 24. forestcityculinaryexperiences.ca 

Experiential Tourism is based on developing 

experiences that allow visitors to use all their 

senses and interact in a hands-on approach 

within a region’s culture. An experiential tourism 

destination provides opportunities for visitors 

to make deeper connections to regional food 

stories and become interactively immersed in the 

local culture guided by knowledgeable insiders. 

Recently, the third edition of “Unlocked and 

Inspired” represented the first time this tourism 

development training occurred in an urban setting. 

With the help of Ontario’s Southwest and Tourism 

London’s community team, a number of willing 

and ready partners emerged, prepared to launch 

new experiences to the marketplace in 2020. 

These experience partners include a collaboration


of North Moore Catering, The River Room and 

Rhino Lounge at Museum London, Growing Chefs! 

Ontario, the London Clay Art Centre, and the Old 

East Village BIA which partnered with multiple 

community stakeholders. 

As a result of “Unlocked and Inspired,” North Moore 

Catering, The River Room and Rhino Lounge at 

Museum London now offer private team building 

and corporate culinary experiences for groups. 

These experiences can be created on an individual 

basis and tailored to meet the needs of each group, 

be they team-building or pure entertainment. 

All experiences are fully customizable and can 

be adjusted to suit your group’s experience 

and interests. The 3-hour, newly developed, 

Gastronomy Meets Art: Hunger Games at the Forks 

of the Thames experience features an art-themed, 

mystery box cooking challenge and a scavenger 

hunt through Museum London’s art collection. 

The River Room and Rhino Lounge chefs design 

a multi-course meal inspired by paintings in 

Museum London’s art collection, highlighting local, 

seasonal ingredients. 

Wich is Wich has relocated to Wellington St., south 

of Oxford (once Willie’s Café), serving the same 

great food (global flavours, exotic ingredients, 

and textural contrasts). Not just serving gourmet 

sandwiches, it’s taking comfort food to a whole 

new level. Chef Josh Sawyer calls it “home style.” 

Locally sourced whenever possible, meals are 

crafted from hearty artisan bread, slow-roasted 

meats, garden-fresh vegetables, gourmet spreads 

and sauces. Weekend brunch (served both days), 

lunch, and dinner menus (Tuesday to Saturday) are 

completely different. Pair dishes with great wines, 

local beers and cocktails. Wich is Wich also offers 

catering and grab-and-go. 731 Wellington St., 519- 

860-9424, wichiswich.ca 


The London Clay Art Centre (LCAC) is the only 

guild-owned and operated education centre 

dedicated to the clay arts in Canada. It provides 

high-quality programming, nurtures the 

development of novice and professional clay 

artists, collaborates with other community 

organizations and encourages fellowship in an 

inclusive and accessible facility in the Old East 

Village. It is a supporter and advocate of Empty 

Bowls, an annual fundraiser that supports food 

banks, soup kitchens and other worthwhile 

LUNCH Wed to Fri 11:30–2:30 

DINNER from 5pm daily 

432 Richmond Street 

at Carling • London 

ALWAYS 

a 3-course prix fixe 

menu option 

www.davidsbistro.ca 

Exciting NEW 

Food Menu 

Launching 

January 17th! 

Valentine’s 

Afternoon Tea 

February 9 

(12:30 pm seating) 

{ 

4 Weeks to Flourish 

} 

March 5–26 (4 Thursdays) 

Reserve Your Spot! 

268 Piccadilly Street (at Wellington) 

519-601-TEAS (8327) • tealoungelondon.com 

WED & THURS 11am-6pm • FRI & SAT 11am-9pm • SUN 12-5pm



initiatives to combat hunger and address food 

insecurity. Each year, local clay artists make up to 

700 unique bowls. Ticket buyers choose the bowl 

to take home and enjoy a simple meal of soup and 

bread donated by local restaurants. The proceeds 

of Empty Bowls go to a worthy local organization 

addressing food insecurity. LCAC has incorporated 

the Empty Bowls initiative into its experience, 

The Humble Lump. Go behind the scenes with a 

hands-on and fully immersive experience that 

includes trying your hand at slipping, joining and 

SUNDAY BRUNCH 

11am−2pm 

Open 7 Days a Week 

Mon/Tues 11:30-10, Wed/Thurs 11:30-11, Fri/Sat 11:30-12, Sun 11-10 

carving your own bowl. This experience includes a 

heart-warming lunch and an inspiriting community 

narrative by enthusiastic, talented artists and 

storytellers. londonclayartcentre.org 

Food, Fire, Feast! A Healthy Diet Means a Healthy 

Planet emphasizes food literacy as a tourism goal. 

Food literacy means a person’s ability to correctly 

read food labels and Canada’s Food Guide, and 

the aptitude to comprehend essential nutrition 

well enough to apply that knowledge to food 

preparation. Food literacy includes understanding 

how food is grown and produced, where it 

originates, how production affects the environment, 

and who has access to what types of foods. Based 

on the idea that education can alter behaviour, 

Growing Chefs! Ontario’s dedicated team and 

passionate volunteers have made tremendous 

strides by changing the way children and their 

families perceive food. Growing Chefs is a social 

enterprise, without peer in Ontario, delivering 

innovative and impactful childhood learning 

programming. The winning team at Growing Chefs! 

creates a high energy atmosphere with several 

prep and cooking stations for seasonal, hands-on 

activities with ingredients both foraged and from 

their teaching garden, guided by expert chefs. 

The Spirit of Old East Village experience, crafted 

by Jen Pastorius of the Old East Village BIA, will 

offer surprises and mystery in a prohibition-themed 

two-hour walking experience. This experience 

allows participants to meet and interact with area 

storytellers and partnered local enthusiasts while 

visiting unexpected neighbourhood hot spots 

and participate in hands-on activities. There is a 

customizable component that can feature a unique 

Old East Village dining experience. All of which 

speaks to the power of collaboration, community 

and excellent storytelling by locals. 

garlicsoflondon.com 

481 Richmond Street 

519.432.4092 

@garlicsoflondon


The Nigerian-inspired YaYa’s Kitchen offers a 

monthly pop-up street-food experience at the 

London Food Incubator. 630 Dundas Street, 

319-3436, facebook.com/pages/category/ 

Local-Business/yayas-kitchen-London- 

Ontario-367184394035958/ 

Donald and Nora Yuriaan’s charming Indonesianinspired 

Dragonfly Bistro has changed hands. 

The friendly new owners have turned the 14-seat 

restaurant into a casual Viet-Thai takeaway serving 

items such as Fresh Rolls, Mango Salad, Pkuet Pad 

Thai and Thai Red Curry. 715 Richmond Street, 519- 

858-8888, dragonflypadthai.ca 

Chef Logan Withers, formerly of Abruzzi Ristorante 

and Toronto’s acclaimed Canis, will be leading 

the culinary team at Chef Dave Lamers and 

Rob D’Amico’s eagerly anticipated new Taverna 

13Thirtyone on Hyde Park Road. Lamers tells us 

“Taverna” is expected to open early February 2020. 

1331 Hyde Park Road, taverna1331.ca 

Michelle Pierce-Hamilton announced an exciting 

new collaboration with Chef Josh Sawyer that 

brings a brand new menu to The Tea Lounge. 

Launching January 17, the menu will boast creative 

offerings such as soups, salads and sandwich 

entrées — flavourful, delicious, whole food, 

plant-based — with flare. The Tea Lounge will be 

serving this new lunch menu daily and will expand 

into weekend dinners. The Tea Lounge offers 

100+ sommelier-selected teas, lattes and French 

press coffee. Pierce-Hamilton continues to offer 

an array of classes, events, private bookings and 

experiences. 268 Piccadilly Street, 519-601-8327, 

tealoungelondon.com 

Score Pizza, a fast-casual pizza experience, 

recently opened in beautifully refurbished 

premises that formerly housed Kiss the Cook. The 

pizzeria offers fresh, quality, customizable pizza 

from a stone-fired oven in an open kitchen. There 

are gluten-free offerings and a wide selection 

of signature and seasonal toppings. Owner Joel 

Burnstein tells us that the official Grand Opening 

will commence the week of January 20. 551 

Richmond St., 519-601-8327, scorepizza.ca 

Stratford 

The Slow Food Perth County Sunday Market 

runs 10am–2pm indoors at downtown Festival 

Marketplace Mall until May, when it moves to the 

Market Square at City Hall. You’ll find local produce, 

bread, soup, sweets, soap, healthy treats, crafty 

Your love of all things Italian begins at 

Gift Cards 

Available 

Bring back “homemade” 

again with Marshall’s Pasta! 

519-652-7659 • HWY 401 & 4 • pastosgrill.com 

580 Adelaide St N, London 

519-672-7827 

Quality 

Convenient 

Meals 

Healthy Food the Whole 

Family Will Love! 

We use 

Enriched 

Durum 

Semolina Flour 

for all our pastas. 

3.5 grams of fibre per serving 

Plus NO SUGAR ADDED to our sauces. 

MON–FRI 9:30am–7pm • SAT 9:30am–5pm • SUN 11am–5pm 

Full menu available at marshallspastacatering.ca

“Reasonably priced, fresh, well-executed 

Ethiopian cuisine ...” — Bryan Lavery, Eatdrink 

Gift 

Certificates 

Available 

$5 

16-oz Pints 

Thursdays 

Grand 

Marnier 

Trifle 

Blair Blvd 

London 

International 

Airport 

• FAMILY FRIENDLY 

• Vegetarian & 

Vegan Options 

• Takeout 

• Catering 

ADDIS ABABA Restaurant 

Tuesday–Sunday 11am–10pm by reservation 

Closed Monday 

465 Dundas Street 519 433-4222 

www.tgsaddisababarestaurant.com 

Crumlin Rd 

Far Out ... 

but we like it that way! 

519-455-9005 

katanakafe.ca 

2530 Blair Blvd, London 

Diamond Flight Centre 

MON & TUES: Lunch 11–3 

WED, THURS & FRI: Lunch 11–5; Dinner 5–9 

Weekends: Breakfast 9–12, Lunch 12–3, Dinner 5–9 

Oxford St 

Book Your 

Valentine’s 

Table Now! 

½ Price 

Bottle of Wine 

Wednesdays 


things, lacto-fermented foods, cheese, grass-fed 

meats and garden seeds. slowfoodperthcounty.ca 

Revival House menus offer modern Frenchstyle 

cuisine that expresses the depth of Perth 

County’s food culture. The chef-driven menus 

reveal a passion for using house-made, local and 

sustainable ingredients, showcasing the terroir and 

the best of what Ontario has to offer. High Tea and 

Sunday Brunch add yet another layer of temptation 

to the offerings. 70 Brunswick Street, Stratford, 

519-273-3424, revival.house 

The Planet Diner, located across from the Avon 

Theatre, is 1950’s Pop Diner meets Bettie Page with 

local pop art and polka dot wallpaper. Owner Dee 

Christensen says, “This is where herbivores can 

bring their carnivore friends.” With candy-apple 

red upholstered booths and classic 50s retro vibe, 

the 26-seat diner is warm and welcoming with 

enthusiastic and well-informed staff. Meat dishes 

are labelled for the carnivore, and other than the 

meat itself (or the eggs in the all-day breakfast), 

everything on the menu is 100% plant-based. 118 

Downie Street, 519-305-5888, theplanetdiner.com 

Nosh Mondays at The Red Rabbit are a way of 

celebrating each season, allowing each chef to let 

their talent and creativity shine. It is also a culinary 

adventure. Join them Mondays to April. Make your 

reservations early. 64 Wellington Street, Stratford, 

519-305-6464, redrabbitresto.com 

Hamlet Hall Brew Co. is a heritage-inspired brewery 

on Market Square in Stratford, incorporating local 

ingredients from the surrounding agricultural 

community. There is a welcoming, laid-back 

ambience; you can sip your beer beside the huge 

brewing vessels. Beer names are based on historical 

Stratford and area people and events. Workerowned, 

it is located in the recently renovated 

historic Herald Building, a former printing 

and newspaper office, and many Victorian-era 

architectural details remain. Brewmaster Jeff 

MacDonald’s favourite part of brewing is learning 

the science behind beer making. Head Brewer Jon 

Zippel’s strengths lie in recipe development and 

technical brewing. The Taproom features expertly 

poured pints, cans and growlers for purchase, and 

an exclusive pub-style menu prepared by The Hub 

kitchen team next door. They work with a variety 

of local vendors and suppliers to incorporate the 

freshest ingredients into seasonal menus that 

are sure to please a variety of palates. There is 

an innovative line of craft beers, accompanied


by delicious cocktails and wine designed to 

complement the cuisine. 21 Market Place, 519-508- 

1890, hamlethall.com 

Want to learn Cooking Fundamentals and the trade 

secrets of braising and stewing from the experts, 

or how to improve your knife skills? Stratford 

Chefs School Open Kitchen features a wide 

variety of hands-on cooking classes and learning 

opportunities for all home cooks and food lovers. 

stratfordchef.com/open-kitchen 

This winter Mercer Kitchen + Beer Hall + Hotel has 

added some comforting menu items, while retaining 

some tried and true signatures. The casual 

brasserie-style ambience is inspired by the concept 

of izakaya — informal Japanese beer pubs. There 

are 15 draft lines and over 120 bottles, including 

international award-winners and hard-to-find 

one-offs. Menus showcase items meant to be shared 

communally that are perfect for the lively, dynamic 

atmosphere.104-108 Ontario Street, 519-271-9202, 

mercerhall.ca 

Around the Region 

Feast ON-certified SixThirtyNine in Woodstock is an 

elegant and contemporary dining room of 30 seats. 

It welcomes guests to a tasteful and comfortable 

atmosphere. Front house service is headed by Chef 

Eric Boyar’s wife, Jennifer Boyar, and the emphasis 

is on unpretentious yet attentive and professional 

service. Zach Lebert directs the restaurant wine 

program, which features both high quality regional 

VQA wines and unique international wines. Wine 

selections change regularly to suit the menu. 

Additional seating is available for up to four 

guests at the Chef’s Table, providing guests with 

an up-close look at the talented kitchen crew in 

action. Service is often headed by Sous Chef Sam 

Vandenberg, who ensures guests at the Chef’s 

Table have an engaging and memorable experience. 

639 Peel Street, Woodstock, 519-536-9602, 

sixthirtynine.com 

Early Bird Coffee is a small-batch, wholesale 

coffee Roastery and café situated close to where 

the 401 and 403 meet in Woodstock, Ontario. It was 

established in 2018 by master roaster Elio Caporicci 

and his hospitable wife, Kate Caporicci. Their 

mission is simple: “To provide a world-class coffee 

experience by delivering the freshest, best-tasting 

small-batch coffee in the region.” They achieve this 

by using only ethically-sourced, premium beans, 

expertly roasted in Woodstock. The rustic, 1,200 

square foot Roastery has three areas: the Roastery/ 

FINE FOOD FOR FINE PEOPLE 

Book 

Now for 

Valentine’s Day! 

PRIVATE DINING ROOM AVAILABLE 

Booking Now for Valentine’s Day 

G R A C E R E S T A U R A N T 

farm-to-table fine dining downtown 

OPEN for LONDONLICIOUS Jan 10 – Feb 2 

.COM


BISTRO • CONFERENCE • SUITES • SPA 

519-565-2576 

LakeHouseofBayfield.com 

Open for 

Valentine’s 

Day 

Celebrations! 

February 14 & 15 

Always Available 

for Caterings! 

Closed for the Season. 

Reopening in March! 

Reservations Recommended. 

519.238.6224 

42 Ontario St. S., Grand Bend 

www.finearestaurant.com 

Coffee Lab, Café and a small retail space. Sit at 

one of the comfortable chairs and tables, or at the 

hand-built herringbone bar top, and revel in the 

welcoming ambience. There is a gold-tempered 

espresso machine for coffee-based specialty drinks 

such as lattes, cappuccinos, cortados and seasonal 

beverages. 815 Juliana Drive, Woodstock, 519-532- 

3127 earlybirdcoffee.ca 

James Eddington of the Feast ON-certified, 

Eddington’s of Exeter is known for his 

contemporary casual fine cooking with a rustic 

charm. Eddington’s favourite seasonal ingredients 

are those that are at their peak of freshness — 

fresh off of the vine, picked from the tree, foraged 

from the forest or dug up from the earth. The 

yellow brick Italianate-style mansion on Main 

Street stands out with its decorative bracket eaves, 

large bay windows and well-manicured lawn with 

mature maple trees. Eddington’s occupies the 

original Carling homestead (built in the 1870s), a 

designated historic landmark. There are twelvefoot 

ceilings both upstairs and down, well-spaced 

tables with lots of elbow room, and warm tones 

with a contemporary ambience bordering on 

elegant. 527 Main Street, Exeter, 519-235-3030, 

eddingtons.ca 

The culinary team at The Chilled Cork in Chatham 

offers a modern take on classic cuisine, using the 

freshest ingredients Southwestern Ontario has to 

offer and pairing them with exceptional quality 

steak, and seafood from around the globe. Whether 

you are looking for an intimate dinner for two, a 

casual business lunch, or a glass of wine at the 

end of the day, be prepared to relax and allow the 

attentive and friendly staff to take care of you. 

The bar offers draft beer, frozen cocktails, loaded 

Caesars and the best variety of scotch, spirits, 

wines and local craft beer. The restaurant is nestled 

within the Retro Suites Hotel’s century-old building 

on Chatham’s “retro block.” 22 William Street 

South, Chatham, 519-354-7818, chilledcork.ca 

Mamma Maria’s Ristorante is family-owned 

and operated, and is considered by many to be 

Chatham-Kent’s best Italian dining experience. 

Specializing in traditional Italian regionallyinspired 

food served in a relaxed and inviting 

atmosphere, this attractive venue offers a warm and 

hospitable respite. The dining room and bar feature 

warm interlocking stone tiles, red brick and stucco 

walls with murals and frescos, eclectic lighting 

fixtures and overhead fans. Tucked in the back is 

a stunning private dining area perfect for special


events, celebrations and parties. There is a wide 

variety of classic pizzas, bruschetta, kinds of pasta 

and risottos. The from-scratch kitchen is purist 

about its ingredients but not afraid to break Italian 

food rules, sometimes infusing more localized 

ingredients. 231 King St W, Chatham, 519-360-1600, 

mammamariasristorante.ca 

Wolfhead Distillery is leading the pack as the 

first premium craft distillery in Essex County 

since prohibition. Owners Tom and Sue Manherz, 

with Larry Girard, found themselves inspired by 

the local history of rum-running and prohibition 

after establishing a third-party bottling operation 

for companies looking to produce small-batch 

specialty spirit lines. That inspiration soon 

developed into building a premium craft distillery. 

Along with making premium spirits, Wolfhead 

features a restaurant and bar. Guests enjoy infused 

creative offerings as well as premium beverages 

while getting a glimpse into the world of distilling. 

Guided tours offer an in-depth explanation of 

the distilling process, and spirits enthusiasts can 

look forward to the full Wolfhead experience. 

drinkwolfhead.com 

The Village Teapot, owned and operated by Gaynor 

Deeks and Jana Yassine, is a delightful tea room 

in the heart of Ilderton. It is located in one of the 

oldest properties in the town, believed to be at 

least 145 years old, which retains many of its period 

features. Special Sunday Roast dates are January 

26 for Roast Ham and February 23 for Roast Beef. 

There will be a special Valentine’s Day Afternoon 

Tea on February 15. Reservations will be required. 

It will be a festive afternoon to come together and 

enjoy savoury and sweet delights served on threetiered 

platters. 13257 Ilderton Road, Ilderton, 519- 

298-8327, thevillageteapot.ca 

The Benmiller Inn, nestled in the hamlet of 

Benmiller on the Maitland River, is an ideal setting 

for an Ontario weekend getaway, a romantic 

retreat, or a few restful days away from the city. The 

lovingly-restored 19th-century woollen and grist 

mill is secluded and peaceful, yet provides every 

modern convenience. Recreational opportunities 

range from the pure pleasure of a stroll through 

unspoiled countryside to fishing in the autumn 

and cross-country skiing in the winter. The 

Benmiller is just minutes from theatre, shopping, 

golf courses, and Lake Huron. Executive Chef Tim 

Goddard and his culinary team create food that is 

fresh and exciting while still offering the comfort 

of a home-cooked meal. Committed to providing 

See Facebook for Weekly Specials! 

Lunch Hours Available for Private Events 

Locally Sourced Ingredients 

Authentic Italian Cuisine 

Local Craft Beers 

Regional & Organic Wines from Italy 

Valentine’s Day Prix Fixe Menu! 

Reserve NOW! 

Take Out & Gift Certificates Available 

Tuesday–Thursday 4pm–8pm 

Friday & Saturday 11:30am–10pm 

Sunday Brunch 11am–2pm, Dinner 3pm–7pm 

Reservations Recommended 

2135 Dorchester Road, Dorchester 

519-268-0001 

fatolive.ca

Come Experience Our World! 

Award Winning Artisan Cheese 

NOW OFFERING! Affinage 101 

A hands-on behind-the-scenes experience 

• Visit the aging room where cheese is cured 

• Taste the changes in flavour as the cheese cures 

• Discover steps to judge cheese quality and taste 

• Create a delicious Gunn’s Hill fondue from scratch 

• Find details and register on our website 

445172 Gunn's Hill Rd, Woodstock, ON 

519-424-4024 

www.gunnshillcheese.ca 

 

Celebrating Local Chefs 

& Entrepreneurs! 

 

 

peppertreespice.com/classes 

 

http://www.peppertreespice.com 

223 Colborne Street, Port Stanley, Open Daily 

The Market at Western Fair, London, Sat & Sun 


an exceptional dining experience, the culinary 

team uses fresh, local ingredients to prepare 

in-house soups, sauces, dressing and desserts. To 

complement the natural setting of The Benmiller, 

brunch at the Inn is a seasonally changing affair 

drawing inspiration from the world-class farms in 

Huron County and the availability of their bounty. 

81175 Benmiller Line, RR 4 Goderich, benmiller.ca 

Kyle Blandford, Craig Brodie, Mike Barker and 

Matt Whitney, four hobbyists-turned-businessmen, 

have turned the old XS Cargo building in Sarnia’s 

east end into Imperial City Brew House, an openconcept 

craft beer destination with a brewery 

and a taproom with 220-person capacity. The 

four co-owners spent years home-brewing from 

their basements, garages, and occasionally over 

a backyard fire pit. They pay homage to Sarnia’s 

history with the names of t heir beer and the 

industrial-feel of the brewery, while crafting a 

wide variety of fun niche products. The cityscape 

featured in the Imperial City logo highlights some 

of the landmarks that shape Sarnia, and the droplet 

crown represents both Sarnia’s rich history and 

their craft standing out above the rest. The primary 

focus is to be a community meeting and retail 

space. They want people to have an interactive 

experience in the brewery. 1330 Exmouth Street, 

Sarnia, imperialcitybrew.com. 

Kitchener’s newest Afternoon Tea venue is now 

open. Queen of Hearts Coffee & Tea House offers 

a laid back atmosphere to enjoy an afternoon 

tea experience or light lunch. Over 20 different 

beverages — from espresso and loose leaf tea 

to many types of lattes — are on offer, along 

with fresh baking, meat pies and sandwiches. 

Reservations required. Special events include: 

Keto & Gluten-Free High Tea on January 24 & 25; 

Valentine’s High Tea & Live Music on February 14; 

and Leap Year Afternoon Tea & Tarot Readings on 

February 29. 1151 Victoria St. N., Kitchener, 226- 

647-8969, QueenOfHeartsKitchener.com 

We want your BUZZ! 

Do you have culinary news or upcoming events 

that you’d like us to share? 

Every issue, Eatdrink reaches more than 

50,000 readers across Southwestern Ontario 

in print, and thousands more online. 

Get in touch with us at editor@eatdrink.ca 

Submission deadline for the next issue: February 5



Theatre 

Make Room on Your Calendar 

The North American Premiere of Room 

By JANE ANTONIAK 

London audiences will be the first 

in North America to experience 

the stage adaptation of Room, the 

runaway international bestselling 

novel and Academy-Award-nominated 

film, when the play opens at the 

Grand Theatre in March 2020. 

That the North American stage 

premiere should be held here is a tip 

of the hat to her adopted city by the 

novelist, Emma Donoghue. She lives 

in London and wrote the book here, as 

she puts it, in a variety of coffee shops 

and recreational facilities while being 

a busy working mom. She lists her 

writing locations like a Trip Advisor rating of 

where to best to snag a free table in the city: 

“The Little Red Roaster on Wortley, Covent 

Garden Market, the YMCA lobby, the Fred 

Landon branch library, the Weldon Library 

and the tennis bubble at Western, Forest City 

Gymnastics, Earl Nichols skating arena, and 

various park benches and parking lots,” she 

admits with candor. 

Interestingly, another London mom is the 

inspiration for the actor playing the aptly 

named lead role of Ma. Alexis Gordon, a 

London born and raised actor with Grand, 

Stratford and Shaw credits, says that she 

credits her own mother for their shared deep 

connection with Room, the novel. 

“My mom had given me the book to read 

Emma 

Donoghue 

as soon as it came out in 2010, excited that 

Emma [Donoghue] lived in London. Both my 

mom and I read it quickly. We both cried while 

reading it, and loved it. So when I told my mom 

I was auditioning she was very excited. It felt 

very personal for me to get the role of Ma, since 

it was such a shared experience for my mom 

and I just under a decade ago,” says Gordon. 

Room has three iterations: book, film, and 

play. Donoghue says, in simple terms, the 

book is the most psychological, the film is the 

most realistic, the play is the most dramatic. 

The world premiere of Room was co-produced 

by the Abbey Theatre in Dublin (Donoghue’s 

hometown) and Theatre Royal Stratford East, 

in 2017. It was directed by Cora Bissett, who 

will also direct the Canadian production. 

Donoghue says, “It’s pretty much the same play 

we produced in England, Scotland and Ireland 

in 2017, but we’re enjoying the opportunity to 

workshop it to improve anything we weren’t a 

hundred percent happy with, and I’ve adapted 

the language to a Canadian setting.” After the 

Grand run, the play moves to Toronto with 

Mirvish Productions. 

Room is the dark tale of Ma, who was 

kidnapped and held captive as a teenager. She 

endures sexual violence and gives birth to her 

son, who is raised in captivity. The pair survive 

together for years in the room. Donoghue 

says the dramatic story is perfectly suited for 

the stage. “I focused on the very theatrical 

premise at the heart of Room: two people in a


Grand TheaTre, CovenT eatdrink.ca Garden |@eatdrinkmag 

ProduCTions, 

and david Mirvish PresenT: 

ROOM 

Based on the Novel by Emma Donoghue 

march 10 to 28 Spriet Stage 

SE A SON 

SPONSOR 

TIT LE 

SPONSOR 

grandtheatre.com box office 519.672.8800

An Udderly Entertaining 

2020 Summer 

Theatre Season! 

20 

20 

SUMMER 

THEATRE 

SEASON 

Season Subscriptions, 

Single Tickets & Gift Certificates 

Available Now. 

Reserve Tickets 519-782-4353 

www.psft.ca 

PortStanley 

FestivalTheatre 

6-302 Bridge Street, Port Stanley 

limited space, with limited resources, making 

things up — giving meaning to their time, 

creating ritual and fun out of blankness. What 

Ma and Jack do is turn their imprisonment 

into theatre, casting themselves as heroes 

rather than victims,” she says. Creating the 

character has given Donoghue time to reflect 

on her own parenting. While some may think 

of Room as a tragic tale, Donoghue found it 

inspiring. “Sometimes I feel I’m not much of 

a mother compared with Ma, though — it’s 

hard to live up to her!” 

Some may be surprised to learn that the 

play has a musical element. Donoghue and 

Gordon say that music is a way for the actors 

to release intense emotions. “There won’t 

be big musical numbers with dancing,” says 

Gordon. “It’s more an elevation of emotion 

— when words aren’t enough to express how 

you’re feeling, you sing. I’m looking forward 

to working with Cora Bissett (the director 

who also wrote the music with Kathryn 

Joseph) and exploring that!” Donoghue 

says the singing will allow the role of Ma to 

“release all the things she has to hide from 

Jack and somehow to push emotion to a new 

level of intensity.” Donoghue was involved 

in discussions about where the songs would 

be placed and what they would do for the 

storyline. She says, “There’s a sort of rule for 

theatre that involves music — say it or sing it, 

not both — so we had to make sure the songs 

would help tell the story rather than just 

fleshing it out.” 

Gordon is a talented singer with a string of 

musical theatre productions including Guys 

and Dolls, The Sound of Music and Carousel at 

Stratford; Brigadoon at Shaw; Christmas Carol 

and Mary Poppins at the Grand. Room will take 

her to a darker stage, albeit still with singing. 

“I believe they’re calling Room a play with 

music. It is a bit of a different structure than 

your straightforward musical theatre piece,” 

says Gordon. 

Gordon says she is excited and challenged 

to follow in the footsteps of some famous 

actors who have taken on the role of Ma, 

including Brie Larson, who won an Academy 

Award for her portrayal. Gordon is set to bring 

her own vision of the role, based on research 

and experiences, to create a new Ma. 

“Sort of in a similar way, I’ve played a 

handful of roles in classic musical theatre that 

have a great following, based on their famous 

movie version and audiences growing up with 

them (Guys & Dolls, Carousel, Brigadoon, etc.).


I try not to base my own performances or 

portrayals on the movies, because I can’t be 

those actresses and do what they did. It has to 

be genuine and come from me to translate the 

role best,” says Gordon. 

Room runs from March 13, 2020 (previews 

begin March 10) until March 28. It is not 

recommended for young children. It will 

then run April 4 to 26 at the CAA Theatre in 

Toronto, with the same cast. 

A special event for book clubs will be held 


at the Grand Theatre with Emma Donoghue 

on February 10, 6:30–9 pm. She will discuss 

her novel Room as well as the upcoming play 

with lead actor Alexis Gordon. Watch the 

Grand website (grandtheatre.com) for more 

details. 

JANE ANTONIAK is a regular contributor to Eatdrink. 

She is also Manager, Communications & Media Relations, 

at King’s University College in London. 

Books 

Hungry 

Eating, Road-tripping and Risking it All 

with the Greatest Chef in the World 

By Jeff Gordinier 

Review by DARIN COOK 

Even as a food writer for Esquire, Jeff 

Gordinier found himself hungry for 

something more. Enter René Redzepi, 

the innovative chef behind Noma 

in Copenhagen, which has held the number 

one spot on the World’s Best Restaurant list 

four times since 2010, and which has possibly 

had more of an impact on the world than any 

other restaurant in history. Reluctant at first, 

Gordinier was asked to tag along with Redzepi 

in search of flavours around the world. It 

turned out to be just what the author needed, 

to fill a void and find the creative inspiration 

to write Hungry: Eating, Road-tripping and 

Risking it All with the Greatest Chef in the World 

(Tim Duggan Books, 2019). 

The book shines a spotlight 

on Redzepi — his is not 

a household name compared 

to the televised onslaught of 

celebrity chefs, but in culinary 

circles he is a pioneering 

legend. He is the epitome 

of the over-achieving perfectionist 

working diligently 

to keep himself on top of 

his game. By scouring the 

globe, he has accumulated 

an encyclopedic 

knowledge of 

foods that 

most people 

have never 

heard of. His 

appetite for 

memorable 

dining experiences, 

for 

flavours no 

one has tasted before, 

and for meal concepts no one has even 

considered is insatiable, and his name will forever 

be linked to the ground-breaking cuisine 

known as New Nordic that 

focuses on ingredients from 

the farms, wilderness, and 

seas of Denmark. 

As a food writer, 

Gordinier knew plenty 

of chefs, but influential 

individuals known for 

working wonders with 

Mexican, Korean, and 

Chinese food gravitated to 

Author Jeff Gordinier


Author Jeff Gordinier (left) and Chef René Redzepi from 

Copenhagen’s renowned restaurant Noma 

Redzepi throughout their travels. Before his 

fortuitous meeting with Redzepi, the author’s 

gloominess about life hinged on a failing 

marriage, but with chefs with the status of 

rock stars surrounding him, with the globe as 

their playground, he became intoxicated with 

shadowing Redzepi. 

With nine trips to Mexico alone over the 

course of four years, the author witnessed 

the chef’s attempts to elevate mole beyond 

its regional status, never in a way to replicate 

the sauce, but maybe change it in ways to 

radiate from the Noma ethos. The same 

went for tortillas. Sure, Redzepi could make 

them, although he sensed his limitations 

by never making them the same as the old 

women in Mexican villages. He can seemingly 

make a meal out of anything, but perfect 

tortillas stumped him. All the more reason to 

obsessively visit Mexico to watch the Mayan 

women who could do it with such ease. 

A meal at Noma was a ticket Gordinier 

would have gladly taken at any point in his 

career, but his first meal there happened 

just before Redzepi decided to shutter his 

restaurant. The meal itself sounded as if it 

were conjured by wizardry, with combinations 

that only made sense in Redzepi’s mind — 

pumpkin and caviar, shrimp and radish, sea 

urchin and hazelnuts. Gordinier attributed 

Noma’s closure to the chef being restless, 

looking to move on, aspiring to something 

beyond that which had already been 

considered the best in the world. Reinventing 

is something that seems to come easily to 

the chef. Gordinier is informed that Noma 

2.0 will be resurrected in a new location 

in Copenhagen in the future, but until 

then Noma pop-ups were given temporary 

residency in Japan, Australia, and Mexico. 

The pop-up operations did not always 

run smoothly, but financial and logistical 

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impediments were no match for the chef’s 

obsession to prove that being hungry for new 

ideas can lead to revelations. 

As readers, we are lucky that Gordinier 

got caught up in Redzepi’s orbit, to chronicle 

a rare glimpse into culinary ingenuity. 

Gordinier’s writing is brilliant and vibrant and 

intriguing: he is immersed in the glistening, 

bubbling, aromatic cornucopia of Oaxaca 

marketplaces; he finds himself harvesting 

wild edibles in the Australian wilderness with 

Noma-trained foragers; he raises an eyebrow 

at the strangeness of New Nordic dishes with 

ingredients like moss, fermented crickets, sea 

buckthorn, pig’s blood, and kelp, until realizing 

they are indeed the best food imaginable. 

The book generally acts as a biography 

of Redzepi, but it is just as much about 

Gordinier’s rise from despair. Hungry is not 

only about satisfying food cravings, but 

following those other feelings that squirm in 

the pit of your stomach and drive you to shake 

up your life when it’s most needed. 

DARIN COOK is a freelance writer based in Chatham 

who keeps himself well-read and well-fed by visiting the 

bookstores and restaurants in London.



Recipes 

Fermentation Revolution 

70 Easy, Healthy Recipes for Sauerkraut, Kombucha, Kimchi and More 

By David Côté and Sébastien Bureau 

Review and Recipe Selections by TRACY TURLIN 

I 

spend a lot of time reading about food. 

Where and how it’s prepared, who cooks 

it and why they make it the way they do. 

Every once in a while I find a book that 

changes the way I see food. These are the gems 

I look for. 

One such book is Fermentation Revolution; 

70 Easy, Healthy Recipes for Sauerkraut, 

Kombucha, Kimchi and More. It’s written 

by Sébastien Bureau and David Côté, two 

men who have spent their working lives 

pursuing something a little different in the 

food industry. Bureau is a food scientist 

with a background in plant and molecular 

biology. He’s the founder and president 

of MannaNova, a consulting company 

specializing in the production of natural, 

fermented beverages and food. Côté is an 

entrepreneur in the field of living food. He 

co-founded RISE Kombucha, the raw food 

restaurant Crudessence, and LOOP, a circular 

economy business that produces juice from 

imperfect produce recovered from the 

grocery industry. 

I thought I knew a fair bit about 

fermenting food and beverages. I’ve made 

pickles, 

bread, cheese 

and yogurt 

at home. My 

husband has 

been making 

his own beer 

and keeping us 

both supplied 

with wine for 

years. When I 

came across 

Fermentation 

Revolution, 

I thought 

I might 

find a few 

variations 

on recipes 

I already 

knew. I 

didn’t 

think I would 

find a whole new understanding 

of living food. 

Bureau and Côté take us boldly through the 

process of fermentation. They discuss safety 

precautions, and the difference between 

fermenting food and just plain “bad” food 

in a way that makes perfect sense. This can 

be hard to get your head around if you come 

from a society that sanitizes its hands before 

cleaning the house. What this book does best 

is demystify the world of microorganisms that 

are in, on and around us all the time. 

If you are a nerd like me, you may also be 

amused by the idea that the first fermented 

food and beverages were almost certainly made 

by accident. I do 

wonder who was the 

first to look at the 

primordial soup that 

is a bowl of soggy 

grain fermented into 

beer and thought, 

Authors David Côté 

(far left) and Sébastien 

Bureau


“Yeah, I should drink this.” Bless their heart. 

Many recipes in Fermentation Revolution can 

be made with readily available ingredients. 

Baker’s yeast, yogurt and sauerkraut are found 

in any supermarket and probably in most 

of our fridges already. Kombucha, kefir and 

sake require specialized cultures to get them 

started. These are available on the authors’ 

website, revolutionfermentation.ca. A quick 


search for fermenting supplies in our region 

will also turn up a surprising number of local 

resources. 

There are many potential benefits to fermenting 

food. You may be looking for health 

benefits or to extend the life of food items. 

You might try it just for the fun of learning 

something new. Homemade Cheese Spread is 

Continued next page ... 

Homemade Cheese Spread 

No cheese is easier to master. You’ll regret that it 

took you so long to try your hand at making it! 

Preparation Time: 10 minutes 

Fermentation Time: 8 hours 

EQUIPMENT 

16-cup (4 L) pot, thermometer, dehydrator or 

oven, strainer, cheesecloth, 2 plates, airtight 

container 

16 cups (4 L) whole milk, unhomogenized if 

possible 

1 packet cheese or yogurt starter 

culture or 2 tbsp (30 mL) fresh 

cheese or yogurt 

¼ rennet tablet (sometimes life 

is complicated) 

3 tsp (15 g) sea salt, or to taste 

1 In the large pot, heat milk over 

medium heat to 95°F to 104°F (35°C 

to 40°C). 

2 Add starter culture, then rennet. Mix 

together. Cover and let stand for 4 

hours, without stirring. 

3 Place covered pot in dehydrator or 

another incubator (for example, the 

oven of an electric range, with heat 

off but oven light on) at 90°F to 104°F 

(32°C to 40°C). Let ferment for 4 

hours. The milk should be solidified 

and the unmistakable aroma of 

cheese should be apparent. To check, 

scoop up a spoonful; the curd should 

maintain its shape on the spoon. 

4 Using a knife, cut solidified curd 

into cubes, like a chessboard. Let 

stand for 15 minutes. Stir very gently 

without breaking pieces, then let 

stand for another 15 minutes. 

5 Transfer cheese to a strainer lined 

with cheesecloth and let whey drain 

off for 30 minutes. Add salt to taste, 

stirring to blend. 

6 Make a knot in cheesecloth to form a bundle. Press 

down a little with your hands to release whey. 

7 Transfer bundle to a plate and lay another plate on top 

as a weight. Refrigerate for 3 hours. 

8 Transfer solids to an airtight container and mix until 

texture is uniform. 

9 Spread generously on one (or several) wood ovenbaked 

Montreal bagels. 

Keeps for 2 weeks in the refrigerator.


Continued from previous page ... 

one recipe that is easy enough for anyone to 

make but has enough steps to make you feel 

you’ve accomplished something really cool. 

Don’t be put off by people who will inevitably 

ask you why you don’t just save time and buy 

cream cheese spread. The difference in taste 

and texture is worth every minute you put 

into it. 

Vinified Fruits in Beeswax might not be 

something you’ll make every week but you 

have to admit, it looks very impressive. I 

imagine it hanging from the beams of my 


imaginary country cottage, somewhere 

between the bundles of drying herbs and the 

copper pots. 

Whether you see food fermentation 

as traditional or trendy, it is a weird and 

wonderful journey through the world of 

kitchen chemistry.. 

TRACY TURLIN is a freelance writer and dog groomer 

in London. Reach her at tracyturlin@gmail.com 

Photo credit for images : Mathieu Dupuis 

Courtesy of Fermentation Revolution: 70 Easy Recipes for Sauerkraut, Kombucha, Kimchi and More 

by Sébastien Bureau & David Côté © 2017 www.robertrose.ca. Available where books are sold. 

Vinified Fruits in Beeswax 

Here is one of the book’s signature recipes that 

is guaranteed to impress! (We give you the right 

to usurp our intellectual property and say you 

thought of it yourself.) 

There are two versions of this recipe: one 

with added yeast and the other using wild 

yeast already present on the fruit. Both recipes 

yield good results, but adding yeast speeds up 

the process and placates the 

impatient. 

In case of spills, use boiling 

water to remove the beeswax. To 

avoid this unpleasant task and 

the animated discussion that 

will ensue with your roommate 

or significant other, it’s best to 

cover your work surfaces with 

newspaper. 

Type of Fermentation: Alcoholic 

Preparation Time: 1 to 2 hours 

Fermentation Time: 2 days to 3 

weeks, depending on whether 

yeast is added 

EQUIPMENT 

Scale, small bowl and toothpicks 

(if using yeast), small deep 

saucepan, foil, clothespins, 

safety pins, thick cord or 

cheesecloth to hang fruit, 

pillowcase (if necessary) 

Champagne or bread yeast 

(optional) 

3 tbsp + 1 tsp (50 mL) warm water 

(if using yeast) 

10 to 15 ripe fruits with stem, 

depending on size (plums, 

apricots, figs, kiwis, cherries or 

other soft fruits with a skin) 

18 oz (500 g) beeswax



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1 Optional: If using yeast, mix it with warm water in 

a small bowl. To start the yeast, dip a toothpick in 

yeast mixture, then insert toothpick a few millimeters 

into the fruit. Repeat procedure two or three times in 

different places on each fruit. 

2 Line interior of small saucepan with foil. Place wax in 

foil in saucepan and melt over low heat just until fluid, 

without heating it too 

much. (Smoking wax 

can kill the yeasts on 

the skin of the fruit.) 

3 Working with one 

piece of fruit at a time, 

place a clothespin 

on the stem. 

Holding fruit by the 

clothespin, dip fruit 

in beeswax. Let set 

for a few seconds, 

then dip again, five 

to seven times, until 

fruit is completely 

coated in wax. Remove clothespin 

and fasten safety pin to stem. Pin fruit to a cord or 

hanging cheesecloth. Repeat with the remaining fruits. 

4 In winter, the fruits can ferment as is, in the air, without 

much risk of a fruit fly invasion. In summer, all fruits 

need to be protected by a pillowcase or another type of 

shelter to keep insects away. 

5 The fruits will ferment inside the wax. Deprived 

of oxygen, they will not grow mold and will turn 

effervescent. Once the wax cracks or juice brims over 

the base of the stem — after 2 or 3 days for fruits with 

yeast added or 2 to 3 weeks for fruits without added 

yeast — the fruits are ready to eat. Not all the fruits 

will be ready at the same time. You can look forward to 

a daily harvest! 

6 Cut in half and served with chocolate shavings, vinified 

fruits can be eaten like oysters! An exotic treat for 

a romantic evening for two or to share with your 

adventurous friends. 

If you want to eat all the fruit at the same time (for 

example, on a special occasion), store the fermented fruits 

in their wax shells in the fridge for a few days, until all of 

them are ready. 

TIP 

If your fruit doesn’t have a strong stem, wrap a string 

around the fruit to hold it and to pin it up. Dental floss 

seems to do the trick.



The Lighter Side 

Super Bowl and Stout 

I 

think the last time I watched a full 

football game was back in high school 

— more years ago than I care to admit. I 

realized I would have to brush up on my 

game when I got — and gleefully accepted — 

a personal invite to a Super Bowl LIII Party at 

the Mill Street Brewery in Ottawa. Clearly I 

would have to brush up 

on my Roman numerals 

as well (in case you’re 

also a tad rusty, it was 

Super Bowl 53). 

Way back when, as 

a teenager and proud 

cheerleader for the Sir 

James Dunn Eagles, I 

had learned the rules 

for all high school 

sports. No need to 

embarrass yourself 

screaming “push ’em 

back, push ’em back, 

waaaay back!” when 

your team is on the 

offense. Or shaking 

your pom-poms when the opposing team is 

lining up to kick a field goal. But … I have to 

admit … other than knowing the name Tom 

Brady (even non-football fans recognize that 

guy! Do I get bonus points for knowing he’s 

a quarterback?) and having a rudimentary 

understanding of the historic roots of the 

team name, I knew nothing about the New 

England Patriots. Or the Los Angeles Rams for 

that matter. 

I’ll admit my “Absolutely love to attend!” 

RSVP was mostly motivated by thoughts 

of hanging out with some of my favourite 

people in the world, sipping some Mill Street 

seasonals, and enjoying the ambience of the 

old stone building that sits on the bank of the 

Ottawa River. But this was a once-a-year big 

deal in the sports world, so I felt compelled to 

do my homework. In less time than it takes 

to snap the ball, I had learned that Jared Goff 

was the Los Angeles Ram’s quarterback. And 

that some fans were lining up to support his 

By KYM WOLFE 

team simply because they didn’t want to see 

Brady win. Again. Having lived with sports 

fans I knew the game would be far more 

interesting if I at least pretended to have a 

cheering interest, and since I tend to root for 

the underdog, the Rams it would be. 

As we arrived that afternoon the snow 

was starting to swirl, 

adding to the charm of 

the beautiful old grist 

mill building. As I took 

in the picturesque 

winter scene, 

appreciating the clean 

lines of the classic 

Victorian industrial 

architecture, it 

occurred to me that 

it was a style you 

might run across in 

New England. I’m not 

usually superstitious, 

but I did wonder if 

that was an omen. 

Had I picked the 

wrong team to cheer for? 

Once the game started I did follow the play, 

and managed to cheer and boo at the right 

times. But I have to admit, the best cheering 

I did all night was when I raised my glass to 

toast our hosts. Maybe … if I’d tried a little 

harder … the Rams could have completed that 

pass. Or at least made the game a little more 

exciting. The Patriots literally ran away with 

the ball … and the game. 

But what the heck. I had a mug full of 

Vanilla Porter and some amazing food. I had 

access to a few specialty beers that are only 

served in the Ottawa brewpub. I was sitting 

in a charming historic building surrounded by 

family and friends. For me, a Super Bowl party 

— or any party — doesn’t get much better 

than that! 

KYM WOLFE is freelance writer based in London.

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Eatdrink #81 January/February 2020

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