PAINT S/S20

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The premier hair colour magazine, from Creative HEAD

S/S20

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OPEN FOR ENTRY!

CREATIVE HEAD’S MOST WANTED AND THE IT LIST AWARDS

CELEBRATE THE MOST EXCITING AND ACCOMPLISHED

TALENTS IN UK AND IRISH HAIRDRESSING.

WILL YOU SEE YOUR NAME IN LIGHTS IN 2020?

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COMPETITIONS CLOSE MONDAY 13 MAY


THIS IS

CONTENTS

OUR MISSION IS TO CELEBRATE COLOUR AND THE ARTISTS CREATING IT –

AND TALK FRANKLY ABOUT WHAT’S HAPPENING IN THE SALON AND ONLINE

08

PAINTERS

Our team share their top Instagram inspirations

16

22

30

36

42

46

48

50

THE FORECAST

The most wearable colour trends from the catwalk

THIS CHANGED MY LIFE

Watershed moments in the lives of colourists

ENTER THE TONE ZONE

How to make the most of toners in your business

IN UNISON

The ASP Colour Rebels celebrate inclusiveness

SOCIAL GATHERING

It takes more than just a like to build an online following

PAINTBOX

The latest launches for your colour kit

ART SCHOOL

Boost your skills with these colour courses

OPINION

Edward Hemmings asks: is balayage bad for business?

16

30

36

42

50

22

ON THE COVER

Hair by the ASP Colour Rebels and ASP Affinage Salon

Professional global ambassador Tracey Devine-Smith

EDITOR Amanda Nottage DEPUTY EDITOR Deborah Murtha ART DIRECTOR Nick Jabbal CONTRIBUTORS Kelsey Dring, Anna Samson

DIGITAL DESIGNER Eva Vestmann CHIEF SUB EDITOR Adam Wood COMMERCIAL EDITOR Eve Wagstaff PUBLISHER Catherine Handcock

PAINT is a supplement of Creative HEAD. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior permission from the publisher. All information is correct at time of going to press. Printing by Buxton Press


Colr

Crush

VISIT PAINT ONLINE AND SEE OUR RESIDENT PAINTERS SHARE EVERYTHING FROM

TECHNIQUES TO FORMULAS AND CLIENT ADVICE. WE ASKED THEM TO NAME THREE

INSTAGRAM ACCOUNTS THEY FIND MOST INSPIRING. GET READY TO DOUBLE TAP…

@mrstevenphilip

A friend from my clubbing

days in the ’90s, Steven is

founder of the vintage store

Rellik in Ladbroke Grove. He

has one the most diverse

collections of archived

designs, from bespoke

McQueen to Vivienne

Westwood show pieces. It’s

definitely a place to explore.

@darrenambrose

Darren Ambrose is by

far one of my favourite

hairdressers in the industry.

His work is always on

point and always fashionforward.

He’s a great pal

and one of the most humble

human beings. I never fail

to be inspired by his awardwinning

looks.

Ja Gray

@dustmagazine

A quality magazine that

never fails to deliver. It’s

full of really edgy editorials

that capture the eye

and the imagination. I’m

constantly drawn in by its

unique way of showcasing

work. The front covers are

always epic!

AKA KARBON KYD

08 | PAINT


Paddy

McDgall

Lexie Shay

Rabbett

RAINBOW ROOM INTERNATIONAL

GuESt

PAINTER!

@HAIR_BY_LEXIESHAY

@RareBooksParis

A treasure trove of

references drawn from

some of the rarest, outof-print

fashion books

and publications around.

From Martin Margiela to

Raf Simons, some of my

favourite images live on

this feed.

@anhcotran

This guy is a lived-in

balayage expert! I stalk his

page all day, every day for

texture cutting techniques,

lived-in styling tips and

some major natural chunky

balayage vibes. I could

watch his videos for hours.

@C__l__o

An online moodboard

run by London-based

creative Lauren Faye. It

is a captivating archive

of images celebrating

the fusion of art, fashion

and photography, and it

provides me with a constant

stream of inspiration.

@PierreCardin

Officiel

The iconic French designer

blazed a trail in the ’60s and

’70s with his use of bold

colours, futuristic shapes,

patterns and textures. The

haute couture collections

provide endless inspiration

and a colour masterclass.

@brandon

messingerhair

I’ve followed Brandon since

I moved to the UK from

Australia. I feel we’re similar

in style but he’s next-level

perfection. If you aren’t

following, do yourself a

favour and get on it because

he is cutting/styling/

colouring realness.

@jaymz.marsters

If you’re a colourist and not

following him, you must

have been living under a

rock! Jaymz is a master in

his craft, perfection is an

understatement regarding

how he applies his colouring

techniques. His creative

mind knows no bounds.

PAINT | 09


Shia Hiln

Casey Coleman

NOT ANOTHER SALON

CHAIR SALONS

2019

@garyvee

My number one is my

business hero Gary. Not

everyone will like him – he’s

loud, aggressive and very

American. He teaches that

you don’t get anything for

nothing, and his work ethic

blows my mind. He’s the

‘you have to get off your

arse and do it’ guy.

@jorel_doherty

Maybe not what you were

expecting here, but I really

like following my husband.

As he’s a stay-at-home

dad, it’s awesome to watch

Stories of him and our kid

playing together. But more

than that, I like reading

what he writes about being

a man at home.

@iamginabianca

I love this chick, she’s a hair

educator from Connecticut.

Straight talking, easy to

understand and real. You

should follow her because

there’s so much to learn

from her. She’s transparent

about everything and

anything, as a good

educator should be.

@conorjmd

Instagram is such an

amazing tool, and I live

for colour! Conor is an

incredible corrective

colourist who constantly

posts ways to make

corrections easier, but

he’s very honest! He’s also

hilarious, so I’m definitely

here for the hair ha-has.

@JamieFurlan

Jamie is an Australian

hair genius. Not only is his

colour work off the charts,

his styling is too. He’s

innovative, creative, and ohso

stylish. I love looking at

what he creates – it sparks

artistic energy in me, and I

can’t get enough.

@shmeggsand

baconn

Megan is a goddess – the

way she colours is brilliant.

I’ll be honest, I’m not a

massive fan of American

aesthetics, they’re normally

way too over the top for me,

but not Megan. She has a

way of capturing her work in

a simple, beautiful way.

10 | PAINT


Sarah Black

LINTON & MAC

@tyler_spangler

I came across Tyler’s work

a few months ago and it

instantly drew me in. I’m

a sucker for good use of

colour and interesting

shade combinations. I love

contrasting elements, so

his use of old black and

white photography mashed

together with vivid digital

art is super cool!

@beautyspock

Frances is a make-up artist

and model who creates

the most beautiful and

interesting colour stories

through hair and makeup.

Everything she does

has a classic concept with

something that makes it

modern and fresh, and

that’s exactly what I aim to

do with my own work.

@renyaxydis

Renya is so effortlessly

good at what she does; or

at least she makes it look

effortless! I love that she

gives insight behind her

looks and how she created

them. That’s the beauty of

social media – you can be on

the other side of the world

from a creative and still

learn something from them.

For more insight, advice, techniques and inspiration, check out

our PAINTERS at creativeheadmag.com/paint

PAINT | 11


12 | PAINT


PLAY WITH GLOW

THE DEMAND FOR GLOWING FINISHES IS ON THE RISE. BECOME A BEACON OF

POSSIBILITIES WITH INOA GLOW SHADES FROM L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL

FOR 2020 IT’S ALL ABOUT that supernatural

glow. Fresh, subtle variations on natural

shades with a healthy-looking, reflective

quality are a booming business proposition.

While there will always be a place for lovers

of adventurous colour, a significant portion

of your colour business will always be the

creation of beautiful, wearable hair.

Building on the success of the Majirel

Glow launch last year, L’Oréal Professionnel

is bringing the same luminosity and ultrawearable

colour to INOA.

INOA Glow is where L’Oréal

Professionnel’s Glow technology meets

indulgence. It’s everything people already

love about the Glow finish and technology

– brilliant neutralisation and luminosity –

now combined with the INOA difference:

ammonia-free colour for a pleasant smell

and optimal scalp comfort.

INOA Glow offers a palette of nine shades,

from ashy to iridescent and mocha. All

shades preserve

the hair’s natural

transparency,

allowing for more

natural and luminous

results. INOA Glow

lifts and neutralises

at the same time,

revealing incredible

light reflection, while

always respecting

the naturally

enhanced effect

from INOA colour

that hairdressers and

clients love.

BEFORE

AFTER

L.28 CHERRY SAND

Light Ash Gl

PAINT | 13


MEET THE

GLOW-GETTERS

THE INOA GLOW CLIENT COULD BE SITTING IN YOUR CHAIR ALREADY

As ever, beauty trends are cyclical in nature

and we’ve returned to clients investing in a

more naturally perfected look. Skincare sales

are overtaking make-up sales, and clients are

seeking new opportunities to enhance their

natural beauty and colour.

There are so many colour opportunities

to discuss with clients. Clients looking to

rejuvenate their hair in a subtle way, cover a

smattering of greys and see a boost in healthy

shine can relax knowing that the shades have

an ultra-natural finish. Younger clients, looking

to take their first steps into colour can be

reassured with the ammonia-free formula and

glossy finish. Colour lovers can experiment with

endless mixing potential.

Millennial and Gen Z clients are open to

having that conversation with you, to explore

the possibilities of hair colour beyond simply

lightening or balayage. For the increasingly

clued-up customer, INOA could be that initial

step into becoming a Glow and colour convert.

The natural-looking results are

perfect for first-time colour clients,

those who previously coloured but

have lapsed and those who want

a refresh in between balayage

appointments. The ammonia-free

colours have a new and improved

texture which offer incredible

light reflection, cool tones and

translucency to sell colour as an

enhanced natural finish.

INOA Glow uses the same

Oil Delivery System (ODS)

that INOA colourists love, with

the combination of the Glow

innovations sparked by Majirel

Glow. INOA Glow can give your

colour menu a fresh lease of life.

BEFORE

AFTER

L.21 FROZEN ROSÉ

Light Iridescent Gl

14 | PAINT


AFTER

D.13 TAUPE LESS + L.13 TAUPE LESS

Light Golden Gl

BEFORE

Let your clients try out INOA Glow colours with

zero commitment. Download the Style My Hair

Pro app for real-time digital transformations

and colour inspiration

Shine a light on no-ammonia colour services with new INOA Glow shades. For more information,

call 0800 030 4034 or visit lorealprofessionnel.co.uk #lorealprouk #lorealproire

PAINT | 15


Max Mara

House of Holland

GCDS

Bora Aksu

The fecast

S/S20

AS EACH SEASON DAWNS, NEW TRENDS AND

TECHNIQUES ARRIVE ON THE RUNWAY, FILTERING

THROUGH INSTAGRAM VIA EDITORIALS AND INTO

THE SALON. WE ASKED TOP HAIR COLOURISTS TO

IDENTIFY THE THREE MOST EXCITING COLOUR TRENDS

FOR S/S20, ENABLING YOU TO RECREATE THE LOOKS

LIGHTING UP SOCIAL MEDIA FOR CLIENTS. IT’S TIME

TO BRUSH UP YOUR COLOUR KNOWLEDGE AND TAKE

YOUR TREND KNOW-HOW TO THE NEXT LEVEL

Erdem

Molly Goddard

Rose Danford-Phillips at On|Off

Paula Knorr

Matty Bovan

16 | PAINT


Sweet treaʦ

Smiths Salons

Charles Worthington

PRODUCTS Infuse My.Colour, ASP INFINITI b.Brown, L’Oréal Professionnel Majirel,

ALFAPARF Milano Precious Nature , Wella Professionals Koleston Perfect ME+ Pure Naturals

ASP Affinage Salon Professional

TIGI

DAKS

Schwarzkopf Professional

THE TREND

CHOCOLATE BOX

From gooey caramels and

praline mousses to rich cocoas

and dark ganache, there’s a

sweet treat of inspiration for

every head of hair this season.

“Tones ranging from buttery

blondes to mocha brunettes

work together to create a rich

colour,” says Katie Hale, head of

colour at Charles Worthington.

“The chocolate box trend

encompasses a range of

super-healthy, shiny and multidimensional

chocolate tones

from white chocolate to dark

cocoa,” agrees Adrian Paoluccio,

colour artist at Smiths Salons in

Soho. “I normally use freehand

techniques with a combination

of strand lights to achieve

these natural looks, and always

finish with a glossy toner by

Schwarzkopf Professional.”

Clients with finer hair will

love this look, as the different

tones can give the impression

of added volume. “The multidimensional

colour will make

hair seem thicker and healthier,”

says Krysia Eddery, Aveda

colour ambassador and owner

of Perfectly Posh Hair. “Toasted

blondes, with flecks of darker

shades throughout give a super

blended finish.”

This trend has a natural feel

too, according to Kerrie O’Reilly,

TIGI European technical director.

“For brunettes, the key is not to

oversaturate,” she says. “Add

depth and dimension to create

movement and step away from a

flat, block colour.”

The beauty of this trend is

creating a bespoke look. “We will

see lots of colour placement to

frame the face, and contouring

layers to complement skin tones,”

says Tracy Hayes, global head

of technical training at Fudge

Professional. “Each technique

and placement will be individual

and will send the message that

this is expensive hair.”

PAINT | 17


Wella Professionals

THE TREND

SKY HIGH

Heads will be in the clouds this

summer – from the soft pinks of

sunrise and the bright cobalt of

midday through to burnt sunsets

and shimmering twilight tones,

this sky-inspired palette is fresh

and adaptable.

“Pantone’s Colour of the Year

for 2020 is Classic Blue – a

shade reminiscent of the sky at

dusk,” says Steph Peckmore,

colour manager at Bad Apple

Hair. “It’s said to symbolise

what’s coming next – the future,

the unknown and a new decade.

It’s an interesting choice, and

one that will undoubtedly filter

through to hair.”

“I have used blue skies as a

source of inspiration for some

recent creative colour work in

the salon,” explains Sarah Black,

colour expert at Linton & Mac

and The It List It Girl 2019. “Adam

Reed brought out the denim hair

trend a few years back, and last

year we saw more aqua tones –

this year is changing again into

more true blues.”

Neil Barton, owner of

Neil Barton and Goldwell

ambassador, suggests that

the pale colours associated

with dawn are another way to

tap into this trend. “I definitely

think muted pastel tones will be

popular in 2020,” he says. “Think

softer tones that fade beautifully

like peaches, lilacs and dusk-like

pinks. These are the perfect

shades as we move into spring.”

And for the more wary clients

who want a low commitment

way to tap into this trend, Aveda

offers a range of services called

Lightwaves. “The tonal quality

of these trends will suit every

skin tone,” says Joe Hill, lead

colour educator for Aveda UK.

“From cooler mink-like dusk

tones through to warmer bright

daylight tones, there is a shade

to suit every need.”

PANTONE

APUJAN

Classic Blue

Dawn dusk

Bad Apple Hair Stil Salon

PRODUCTS Staino by evo fab pro, Paul Mitchell The Demi, TIGI Copyright Colour True Light

Freestyle Blonder, Aveda Full Spectrum Vibrants, Goldwell Elumen Play, JOICO Color Intensity

Pearl Pastel

Aveda

evo fab pro

18 | PAINT


Fashion images courtesy of ANTI, Aveda, BaByliss PRO, ghd, L’Oréal Professionnel, R+Co and Wella Professionals

HOB Salons

Bleach London

Siking t

Robert Eaton for

Wella Professionals

PRODUCTS Revlon Professional Revlonissimo Cromatics, Redken Shades EQ Gloss,

Schwarzkopf Professional Chroma ID, Fudge Professional Head Paint, Guy Tang #mydentity

Mimi Wade

Slunks

Fyodor Golan

THE TREND

HEAVY

CONTRAST

The ’90s are undoubtedly here

to stay. It started with chokers

and sportswear, and now

blocky, high contrast hair is

having a moment. Play with root

stretches, chunky highlights and

statement sections for a look

that’s equally retro and modern.

“This trend was huge in the

late ‘90s when the likes of Gwen

Stefani and Christina Aguilera

were brave enough to wear it,”

explains Warren Boodaghians,

head of technical at HOB Salons

and Academy. “Clients can go

strong and bold with the colour

placement or alter the contrast

between dark and light by going

softer for a more delicate finish.”

The crowd visiting Bleach

London regularly request

statement colour at the front

of their hair. “It’s a nod to the

’90s but it gained popularity

with designer Mimi Wade,” says

Bleach founder Alex Brownsell.

Combining these colours

with a carefully chosen cut can

elevate the look further. “This

can suit a more simplistic and

structured shape along with

anyone who wants to make a

stronger statement with colour,”

says Wella UK and Ireland

technical director Robert Eaton.

“It’s all about research and

looking into some of the shapes

and colour placement used,

while at the same time giving

it a modern and more current

twist.” Anne Veck, owner of Anne

Veck in Oxford, points out that

this trend can be adapted for a

gentler look. “Britain is going to

go crazy for contrast hair à la

Cruella De Vil, but it doesn’t

have to be as stark as her look,”

she says. “Subtler colouring will

become more widespread. Use

a centre parting with a half-half

look for striking effect.”

PAINT | 19


Violeʦ are blue…

DIVE A LITTLE DEEPER INTO COLOUR WITH NEW VIOLET AND BLUE SHADES

FROM PAUL MITCHELL PROFESSIONAL HAIR COLOR’S THE DEMI

JUST WHEN YOU think you know what you

can achieve with demi-permanent hair colour,

something comes along to expand your

colour horizons.

Five new Violet and Blue shades join the

already successful line-up of The Demi from

Paul Mitchell Professional Hair Color to offer

true violet and blue ash undertones, ranging

from cool blonde to rich blue-black.

Three bottles of Paul Mitchell The Demi

are sold every minute worldwide, and it’s

not hard to see why. These intermixable

formulas can be used to create unique

shades, or be used alone for shiny,

vibrant and healthy-looking finishes.

The smooth gel consistency offers

gentle, no-ammonia colour deposit

for rich colour results that last up

to six weeks.

The new shades span the

spectrum between delicate violet

and deepest cobalt, perfect for

tapping into Pantone’s trending

Colour of the Year, Classic Blue.

20 | PAINT


COLIN CARUSO, ARTISTIC DIRECTOR OF PAUL MITCHELL

PROFESSIONAL HAIR COLOR, SHARES ADVICE ON HOW TO STAY

ON TOP OF THE TRENDS WITH THE DEMI VIOLETS AND BLUES

PAINT: The Demi shade offering is expanding with the addition of the Violets and Blues.

What can we expect from these new shades?

Colin Caruso: You can expect the same healthy shine, vibrant saturation and fluid

consistency you always get from The Demi. These tones are on-trend and they work right out

of the bottle! Add them to any shade (except for Muted Metallics) to add coolness and depth

to any formula. Get creative and see where it takes you. Don’t be afraid to swatch – swatching

is key. Also, a capful can go a long way on lighter tones to create innovative new blondes.

PAINT: What other colour trends can we expect to see this year?

CC: We will continue to see cool, pale blonde tones inspired by nature. Even matte green

undertones on blondes will trend. Guests want an element of individuality, but also like the

idea of ‘natural’, especially in blondes. Red-brown hybrids will continue to rise. Jade green

and metallic blue-blacks will trend at deeper levels. Blues, greys and taupes are still on-trend

as well, with a balanced palette of colours to avoid looking silver. Either way, healthy-looking

hair is always trending!

PAINT: How can stylists adapt these trends for their everyday guests?

CC: It’s good to be prepared. Swatch formulas to test and be ready for trends before they

come into the salon. Nothing is worse than trying to figure out how to do a new trend on a

first-time, paying guest. Use your social media channels to attract guests who are willing

to wear these new colours and get to work. Practice makes perfect.

Expand your colour horizons with the The Demi Violets and Blues, available exclusively from

Salon Success. For more information call 0845 659 0011 or visit salon-success.co.uk

PAINT | 21


AINE CARTY

THE EVENT: Redken Symposium

THIS CHANGED my life

YOUR CAREER CAN TRANSFORM IN A MOMENT – A DISTINCT BEFORE AND

AFTER, WHERE THINGS WERE NEVER THE SAME AGAIN. THESE COLOURISTS

ALL HAD MOMENTS AT EVENTS OR THROUGH EDUCATION THAT PROPELLED

THEIR CAREERS TO NEW HEIGHTS… IS YOUR MOMENT NEXT?

“Redken queen Sheri Doss had an Instagram post looking for people to share their

story and personal experiences about what Redken meant to them. I reached out and

honestly never thought any more of it. Fast forward a couple of months and I found myself

at the Redken Symposium in Las Vegas, representing Ireland as a brand ambassador

on an international stage for the opening show. I was completely over the moon at

the opportunity. The hard-hitting moment for me was being on stage with three other

ambassadors, seeing our faces on a gigantic screen.

“The impact on my career was incredible. It helped to raise my profile and grow my

following within the industry, headlining masterclasses and facilitating seminars. I’ve

had colourists and stylists DM-ing me for formulas or advice on a certain look or shade,

hairdressers wanting selfies, even a young mum telling me I had inspired her. It was an

incredibly humbling experience.”

JORDANNA COBELLA

THE EVENT: Wella Professionals Master

Colour Expert programme

“Before completing the Master Colour

Expert programme I felt as though I was

colouring blindly. I had my favourite goto

shades and didn’t take advantage

of the full colour portfolio due to a lack

of in-depth knowledge on product

technology. I was very comfortable with

most colouring services, but when it came

to colour correction, I would have a lot of

unanswered questions and find myself in

situations I did not anticipate.

“Knowledge really is power, and the

course helped me answer the why as

well as the how. I can now predict every

potential scenario for colour and my

experience and skill set has improved

dramatically. There were so many lightbulb

moments along the way.”

22 | PAINT


NEIL BARTON

THE EVENT: Goldwell Color Zoom Challenge

Educa

“I was the first ever UK winner of the Goldwell Color Zoom Trophy

in 2010, winning the Creative Category in Paris, which was

incredible. The win really did enhance my career and opened up

so many opportunities. It got my name out there as being a great

colourist, and now I travel the globe with Goldwell and share my

skills, knowledge and expertise with hairdressers all over the world.

“I was honoured and surprised when I received the Global Zoom

Hall of Fame trophy in 2018 in Toronto – the award is given to a

person who maximises their win at the Color Zoom Challenge,

someone who has developed their career and has mentored

people throughout the Goldwell network. It was proof of how that

initial win has played a huge part in my career.”

SINÉAD KELLY AND

VAS MIKELLIDES

THE EVENT: L’Oréal Colour Trophy

“It’s one thing to win the L’Oréal Colour Trophy Grand Final once,

but going in the second time, the biggest thing for us was to

implement the techniques we had in mind. The fact that we

won – again – gave us a whole new platform. We were invited to

showcase at L’Oréal Colour Congress, which was our first time

presenting there. It’s something we’re considering doing more of in

the future as we had some people asking us about courses.

“The win also profiled the Sinéad Kelly salon a lot more. The first

win – especially being a small, independent salon – can almost

seem like an anomaly. Most people who have won the competition

just tick it off the list and move on, but it really cemented our

position. The pressure was quite high to try again, we went with

what we wanted to do because we could try something a bit left

field, something you might not normally consider for a competition

like this. Winning it twice also made a big difference with our

clients, on a consumer level. It proved who we are, and validates

the prices we charge.”

Have you heard about Goldwell’s brand new

Global Creative Awards? Find our Colour

Contest Cheat Sheet with all the details

on creativeheadmag.com/paint

MARK LEESON

THE EVENT: Most Wanted Colour Expert Award

“A massive turning point in my colouring career was winning

Creative HEAD’s Most Wanted Colour Expert – in 2010 and 2014.

To say I was delighted is an understatement, and to be recognised

for my passion was, and is, so rewarding. On a business level it

helped us to grow and open new salons, gain column inches, and

employ dedicated team members, along with shoots, education

around the world and events.

“It really validated our colour expertise. I realised 20 years ago

that colour was, and continues to be, the core of my business.

I knew I wanted to have true mastery of colour – and in

particular, perfecting blondes was my goal. Anyone can

lighten hair but it’s what you do with it afterwards, and

toning for me is still where my team and I excel.”

Are you the next Most Wanted Colour Expert?

Go to creativeheadmag.com/mostwanted


VIBRANTLY

H A P P Y

WHO SAYS NATURALLY-DERIVED COLOUR CAN’T DO VIVID? LET US BRIGHTEN

UP YOUR COLOUR BAR WITH FULL SPECTRUM VIBRANTS FROM AVEDA

*From plants, non-petroleum minerals or water

THERE HAS NEVER been a more exciting,

playful and experimental time for hair

colour (thanks Instagram!), or a time when

consumers have been more concerned

with sustainability and the impact of the

choices they make.

But the perception has long been

that if a product is naturally derived, its

performance suffers. And colourists need

to know they will get the results that they

need delivered, every time. Well, salon

colour’s getting brighter.

Full Spectrum Vibrants from Aveda is

a semi-permanent treatment hair colour

palette of intense shades that can be

mixed to create a spectacular spectrum

of results, from sheer and translucent

to opaque and vivid… with no developer

needed! Because this line-up is 95 per

cent naturally derived,* Full Spectrum

Vibrants provides instant shine and

nourishing condition, thanks to its

signature blend of protective plant oils

and plant-derived ingredients.

By fusing a conditioning blend of

certified organic plant oils, including

kukui, sunflower, castor and jojoba, this

colour range helps improve the condition

of damaged hair and provides radiant

shine that will look killer under a ring light!

With a brilliant 11 shades to choose from,

you’ll know you can find the perfect shade

for your colour-loving but eco-conscious

client. This is vivid colour, naturally

derived, that delivers. The future just got a

whole lot brighter…

FULL SPECTRUM VIBRANTS – WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW

• Smooth consistency = easy application, thanks to corn-derived solvents

• No nasty aroma as certified organic ylang ylang, petitgrain and ginger deliver a

floral, spicy fragrance

• There are no synthetic glycols, silicones, phthalates, parabens, mineral oil,

oxidative dyes or ammonia in the formula

AZALEA RASPBERRY POPPY TANGERINE DAFFODIL EMERALD LAGOON COBALT IRIS CHARCOAL CLEAR

24 | PAINT


Want to see what colourists can achieve with

Full Spectrum Vibrants from Aveda?

Turn the page and take a peek…

PAINT | 25


FRESH LIFESTYLE SALON & SPA

@freshlifestyleaveda

ELEMENTS HAIR & BEAUTY

@elements_hair_and_beauty

BLOOM

@bloomavedalifestyle

#LETSGETVIBRANT

RINGLIGHTS AT THE READY – LET’S SEE HOW UK AVEDA COLOURISTS ARE

SHARING THEIR WORK WITH FULL SPECTRUM VIBRANTS ON INSTAGRAM

GINA CONWAY

@gina_conway_aveda

JO MCKAY

@joelouisemckay

THE WONDERLAB

@thewonderlabhair

OXYGEN

@oxygenaveda

BUTCHERS SALON

@butcherssalon

BROTHERS OXFORD

@brothersoxford

26 | PAINT


SAY HELLO TO JOE HILL

MEET @THECOLOURBOY, THE AVEDA COLOUR WHIZZ WHO’S HERE TO HELP MAKE YOUR COLOUR CAREER POP!

WHAT DOES YOUR ROLE ENTAIL?

My role is Aveda colour

specialist UK & Ireland, and

I’m on the Aveda UK & Ireland

Pro Team. My job is split in two;

firstly I work with the Aveda

salon network creating technical

education plans to help drive

their business to the next level.

I also work with all the teams

within Aveda to ensure we can

offer our salon network and

salon guests the most from Aveda colour, whether this is working

with PR on photo shoots or sales teams… no day is ever the same!

WHAT ARE YOUR FAVOURITE VIBRANTS SHADES TO PLAY WITH?

I love them all, however I really like creating vintage, aged-looking

colours at the moment. Think faded mauve or blushed bronze.

That’s why I like working with our charcoal shade and intermixing

with whatever tone will suit!

WHAT’S EXCITING FROM AVEDA EDUCATION IN 2020?

I am super-excited about our exclusive partnership with Vladimir

Sarbashev. He’s the creator of the AirTouch Technique, a modern

way to freehand balayage hair utilising airflow as your tool. It really

is a game-changer.

WHY DO YOU LOVE WORKING WITH AVEDA COLOUR?

It’s so unique and honestly that’s what I really love about it. I have

been colouring hair for more than 18 years and I’ve never used a

colour line that expands my creativity and gives my salon guests

ultimate options like this, because Aveda Full Spectrum colour is

fully customisable. It’s also 95 per cent naturally derived.*

WHAT’S IN STORE FOR YOU NEXT?

Block colour versus natural colour. I think the next big application

trend is going to be working with the beautiful natural canvases we

all know and love and adding geometry through focal areas like the

fringe or under the parting. For example, taking a natural-looking

balayage and creating extremely light sections through the focal

area utilising triangle/square or circular sections, merging extreme

natural with extreme bold.

WHAT ARE YOUR TOP TIPS FOR COLOURISTS SHARING THEIR WORK ON INSTAGRAM?

There are so many elements to creating an amazing feed. First of

all, be personable! We have seconds to capture an audience so let

your personality shine. Second, when taking the image, find a nice

brick wall/plain background or, if your salon has no spare space,

buy a pull-down projector blind for an affordable photoshoot finish.

HOW SHOULD COLOURISTS TAG THEIR WORK TO BE SEEN BY AVEDA?

#avedaartist #aveda #avedacolour #avedacolourist

#avedafullspectrumcolour #avedablonde #avedavibrants

*From plants, non-petroleum minerals or water

Want to make your colour business even brighter with Full Spectrum Vibrants? Visit aveda.co.uk/professional

PAINT | 27


FULL METAL

ALCHEMY

GOLDWELL’S NEW METALLIC SHADES ARE POSITIVELY MAGNETIC

28 | PAINT


We had three key requirements when we started looking for a new

colour house. Excellent products, excellent company culture and a

competitive contract agreement. Goldwell met all of these and more

Luke Halford

Addicted to Colour, Leicester

THE FUTURE IS not just bright, it’s metallic. Six new shades have

arrived in the Goldwell Elumen colour collection, including four

shimmering metallic Elumen Play colours. Known for its trendforward

hues, Elumen is here to take shine to a whole new level.

New Light Grey Gy@9 and Medium Grey Gy@6 add a

sophisticated, cool edge to your looks, and there are four new

semi-permanent Elumen Play shades – glistening @Metallic Berry,

glimmering @Metallic Purple, shimmering @Metallic Petrol and shiny

@Metallic Silver – which can be used for all-over shimmer, or to

add glow to your colour creations with metallic sparkles.

The hyper-reflective, glossy results last for up to four weeks and

will fade on tone if Elumen Care is used at home. If your client can’t

wait for a new shade, Elumen Play Eraser quickly removes previous

colour and prepares hair for the next creation! “The new metallic

shades are stunning,” says Goldwell guest artist Nicola Smyth.

“They’re the perfect shades to use directly on your client’s hair.

If you want to play and get creative, all of the colours are

intermixable, so you can come up with totally bespoke results.”

These new additions have entered Goldwell’s outstanding nonoxidative,

ammonia-free Elumen range – an intensive hair colour that

works with direct-acting colour pigments to penetrate deep inside

the hair. Elumen direct dye technology is known for its incredible

shine, extraordinary colour brilliance and longevity, which works to

repair the hair structure even as it colours.

Innovation is at the core of Goldwell’s colour portfolio, resulting in

fresh possibilities for both colourists and consumers. If you have a

creative vision, Goldwell wants to help you achieve it. “I’ve been in the

industry 40 years and I can honestly say that there is no other colour

portfolio like it out there,” says Goldwell ambassador and industry

icon Beverly C. “The colour palettes and the sheer innovation within

the ranges have opened up a whole new world of creativity for me.”

No stone has been left unturned – take Goldwell @Pure Pigments

for example, which feature revolutionary dye technology developed

over 17 years in collaboration with experts at FujiFilm. The result?

Hyper-pigmented colour with unbelievable shine and fade

resistance. Even the colour delivery system has been evolved and

perfected – the Topchic Depot Can system has won over legions

of colourists for its ease, precision and waste reduction. For every

facet of the colour experience, Goldwell never stops seeking to

improve and innovate.

Experience a different way of creating colour. To discover more about Goldwell’s colour portfolio and this season’s metallic shades,

call 0330 123 9530 or visit goldwell.co.uk

PAINT | 29


Ting

Redken Shades EQ

Enter the

TONE ZONE

TONERS ARE GREAT, AREN’T THEY? PERFECT FOR BANISHING UNWANTED BRASS, ADDING A TEMPORARY SHADE OR REFRESHING

SHINE BETWEEN COLOUR APPOINTMENTS – BUT ARE YOU MAKING THE MOST OF THEM IN YOUR BUSINESS?

30 | PAINT


SCROLL THROUGH YOUR Instagram feed, and you’ll notice that

the hair colours that get a whole lotta love are the perfectly toned,

gorgeously glossy finishes that look almost edible, from biscuit

blondes to chocolatey browns and even sugar almond pastels. And,

thanks to tags, consumers can see for themselves precisely the

professional brands being used to deliver this deliciousness. Often

these are shades that can be applied as a service that doesn’t cost

hours or lots of cash. This is the power of the not-so humble toner,

and truly its time is now.

“Toning should be big news in all salons,” asserts Robert Eaton,

UK and Ireland technical director of Wella Professionals and creative

director of Russell Eaton salons. “We’ve really focused our education

to explore creativity with toners and the technical knowledge that

goes alongside it. Everything from instant colour, our colour blowdry

service to longer-lasting toners and glossing services. There

isn’t much you can’t suggest a toner for.”

Indeed, the merits of toners are endless – yet so many salons fail

to make the most out of using them. “Toning should play a starring

role in any salon,” says Steve Rowbottom, co-director of Westrow

salons. “It’s important to educate your clients first and foremost.

The biggest misconception we’ve found is clients think toning is for

colour correction, rather than a tool for personalisation.”

Steve suggests using simple terminology to point out the colouring

options during a consultation and explaining how adding a warmer or

cooler toner cancels out unwanted tones. “Make it clear what toners

are and how they work with your clients’ hair,” he advises.

@blendsalon

Redken Shades EQ Toning Tweakments menu

WHAT’S ON THE MENU?

Sophie Gibson, art team member of salon group Hooker & Young,

emphasises the importance of a toning menu. “It’s important to

make it clear that colour is a journey. Creating a menu that keeps

this in clients’ minds ensures you’re on the same wavelength in

regards to services provided, products needed and overall cost,” she

explains. “Offering toner services after a previous colour service is

vital for maximising profit and loyalty.”

L’Oréal Professionnel Majirel Glow

Clarifying everything on an easy to understand menu opens up

the potential for developing conversations and interest from clients,

suggests Daniel Rice, colour director at Williams & Rice. They might

not be up for a full colour change but might be willing to try a twist on

the usual. “Satisfying that curiosity can open fresh opportunities with

a wide variety of clients; experimenting with tonal shades can lead

to something more complex, with more commitment and a more

expensive service. But toners can also be an inexpensive way of

introducing colour as a new service to clients.”

Redken supports its salons with regular service menu campaigns,

each one working hard to deliver beautiful hair that’s perfect for

Instagram, driving clients both new and established to try colour and

using beauty vocabulary to chime in with conversations that clients

are hearing elsewhere. With its Toning Tweakments menu, complete

with before and after images, guests are offered four distinct services

using its Shades EQ portfolio to deliver a real impact on their hair

colour, and in as little as 20 minutes. This means it’s a quick backwash

service that can boost the bottom line while illustrating to the client

what a big impact toners can have on banishing brass and dullness.

“Clients love this!” says Jo Pilbeam from Blend about the

Tweakments menu. “They can see exactly how to maintain their

beautiful salon colour and keep the shine without damaging the hair.

We got a lot of interaction from clients asking what we used to make

the colours we share on our Instagram feed and asking questions

about Shades EQ. I think of it as a lip gloss for the hair.”

Offering salons an enticing menu of quick colour options at an

affordable price was a driver behind the No Strings Attached Colour

menu from Wella Professionals too, and its new blonde glazing

menu, curated by its UK colour trend expert, Zoë Irwin, aims to leave

no blonde untoned.

“Toning and glossing services are an amazing introduction

for colour-averse clients,” says Robert Eaton. “There has been

PAINT | 31


Ting

massive growth area in this area. The Wella

Professionals No Strings Attached Colour

menu is perfect for those who want to

experiment, as well as colour-shy clients

you’ve been trying to win over.”

BESPOKE YOUR BLONDES

Larry King’s Harriet Muldoon, one of the

salon brand’s Queens of Colour, sets a very

common salon scene. “If you’re a colourist

you’ll hear the words: ‘I want to go blonde’

many times a day, but ‘blonde’ has so many

meanings,” she says. “It’s all about the tone.

I like to use my social media as a portfolio

to show all of my favourite shades – butter,

vanilla, ash, pearl. Just like make-up, we all

love discussing tones, and Instagram is a

good tool to use during consultations. And

Redken Shades EQ is the ultimate toner range.”

As Trevor Sorbie’s Emma Beveridge

admits, with balayage in particular, clients are

coming into the salon less often, so offering

a toning service is a great way to see them

more regularly. “At the moment I especially

like using the Majirel Glow range from L’Oréal

Professionnel, as it has a great selection of

pastels and more vivid tones,” she adds.

THE NEW DRIVES THE HUE

All this interest in glossing and toning has

naturally driven innovation from the colour

houses to ensure that colourists have exactly

the tools they need to deliver what clients

want. Following last year’s launch of Majirel

Glow from L’Oréal Professionnel, the brand

has also unveiled INOA Glow, a palette of nine

shades that run from ashy to mocha that

preserve the hair’s natural transparency for

luminous results.

@harrietmuldoon

Affinage INFINITI Toners

32 | PAINT


Wella Professionals originally launched its much-loved Illumina

Color line a decade ago, and it’s now adding new shades to its

portfolio to help expand the tones colourists can offer. ASP has

overhauled its whole INFINITI collection, including its toners, to equip

salons with every possible high-performing hue. And for those who

do like to play with something more experimental, Elumen PLAY from

Goldwell has an eraser to clean up hair in a flash so that clients can

try something else tonal.

TONERS AREN’T JUST FOR BLONDES…

“A lot of our clients think toners are mainly for blonde hair,” says

Steve Rowbottom, “but we use them effectively on all hair colours.

Redheads and brunettes can really benefit from using them,

especially in-between colour appointments,” adding that toners are

a great solution for clients looking to return to a more natural hue.

Thomas Hills, artistic director and owner of TH1 Hair in Oxted

and a Revlon Professional colour educator, uses toning in a variety

of ways. “What we call ‘paint colour’ is a trend I see being big this

season,” Thomas says. “This isn’t necessarily for every day, but more

suited to special occasions or summer festivals. Think unexpected

bursts of arty colour and splashes of paint worn against otherwise

inconspicuous normcore shades, which are then styled into nondescript

or traditionally prim styles.”

Thomas believes transparency is key when it comes to building

your toner menu. “We’ve found that as trends and techniques evolve,

so does the time requirement for each appointment. We don’t want

clients to get a shock when paying so we make it obvious at the

start.” He advises being upfront with clients about your techniques

– how long it will take to achieve their dream look, and how that will

impact the end cost. With this in mind, TH1 Hair now has a wider

range of colour services on the menu. “Our previous colour service

issues – those black to blonde expectations for example – now sit

with our ‘creative toning’ section, along with babylights, additional

base colours and freehand painting. This means we can offer our

clients a more tailored response to their hair needs. It also allows

them to understand the colour process more.”

Westrow’s Steve

Rowbottom adds: “We offer

temporary tones via our

in-salon Colour Bar Backwash

experience. It allows our

colour mixologists to create

bespoke tones using Revlon

Professional Nutri Color

Crème [a three-in-one cocktail

of colour, care and shine],

which are mixed and applied

at the backwash. Clients can

then take the remainder of the

product home to use to keep

their colour fresh in-between

salon appointments.”

Steve is in the process

of building this service into

the cost of every colour

appointment at Westrow: “It

will allow us to offer clients a

complimentary visit to the salon

for a follow-up appointment, to

professionally analyse that the

tone is correct, offer maintenance advice or make any alterations if

required and leave the salon with a fresh blow-dry.”

With such a wide variety of services – not to mention toning

products – available to aid clients in their colour quest, it really pays

to ensure communication is open. “Discuss all the ways a toning

service can help your client,” adds Steve. “From the colour-shy to the

colour queens, a menu with options for every level is integral to your

salon becoming invaluable in your clients’ quest for colour nirvana.”

HOME IS WHERE THE TONE IS

Of course, all this toning work isn’t exclusive to the salon. Once

clients have invested in a toning service there’s a brilliant opportunity

to boost the salon’s retail while ensuring their tone lasts that bit

longer with after care recommendations. For

example, Redken’s Color Extend range not

only offers violet-hued Blondage for blondes,

but also Graydient to ensure yellow-free tones

for silver-haired clients and new Brownlights,

which is a blue-toned colour-depositing

shampoo and conditioner that keeps the

brass away from brunettes, too.

For those who like to be a bit more

playful, there’s also after care that can be

customised in salon using the colour that

you’ve applied to your clients. Both evo fab

pro and My.Haircare’s Infuse My.Colour can be

cocktailed by colourists, while both brands

also offer pre-mixed colour intensifying

shampoos and conditioners, too.

“It’s quite easy to add coloured shampoo to

retail because clients know they’re designed

to maintain their specific shade, whether it’s

Redken’s Brownlights, Blondage or Graydiant

shampoos,” says Claire Flack of Wigs &

Warpaint. “Once you’ve used the products,

you believe in them. You can buy whatever

from the high street, but this is prescriptive.”

TH1 Hair

PAINT | 33


#GLOSSITUP

@REDKEN

#GLOSSITUP

OWN THE TONE

FOR SILVER

& GRAY

#SHADESEQ

#SHADESEQ

#

#GLOSSITUP

OWN THE TONE

FOR BRUNETTES

#SHADESEQ

SSITUP

OWN THE TONE

FOR BLONDES

#SHADESEQ


OSSITUP

#SHADESEQ

All rights reserved. 2020

WELCOME TO A NEW TONE ZONE

OWN THE TONE WITH SHADES EQ & SPECIALIST TONING-CARE

Banish brass, dullness and warm tones with Redken’s iconic Shades EQ and

expert range of Color Extend, color-depositing, toning-care for blondes,

brunettes & gray clients. Own the tone for every shade and create the latest

toning techniques your clients are asking for with Redken’s pro-toning

products loved by millions of colorists worldwide.

Want to join the tone tribe? Find our more on redken.co.uk

@REDKEN #SHADESEQ #REDKENREADY


36 | PAINT


IN UNISON

CELEBRATING FASHION’S WAY OF BRINGING DIFFERENT CULTURES TOGETHER IS UNITY, CREATED BY THE ASP

COLOUR REBELS AND ASP AFFINAGE SALON PROFESSIONAL GLOBAL AMBASSADOR TRACEY DEVINE-SMITH. IT FUSES

SOPHISTICATED HAIR COLOURING TECHNIQUES TO ACCENTUATE STYLING AND THE IMAGE IN ITS ENTIRETY

PHOTOGRAPHY BY RICHARD MILES

PAINT | 37


38 | PAINT


PAINT | 39


40 | PAINT


HAIR The ASP Colour Rebels and ASP Affinage Salon Professional global ambassador Tracey Devine-Smith. STYLING Magdelena Jacobs.

MAKE-UP Lucy Flower and Egle Bakaite. PRODUCTS ASP Affinage Salon Professional.

PAINT | 41


SOCIAL

GATHERING

BUILDING YOUR ONLINE FOLLOWING TAKES A LOT MORE THAN JUST POSTING PICTURES OF YOUR WORK.

IT’S TIME TO MAXIMISE YOUR DIGITAL POTENTIAL. THANKS TO EXCITING INTERACTIVE FEATURES SUCH AS

LIVE STREAMS AND POLLS, AS WELL AS THE RISE OF NEW APPS LIKE TIKTOK, NOW IS THE PERFECT TIME TO

MAXIMISE YOUR CHANNELS AND ENGAGE WITH COLOURISTS (AND CLIENTS) ON A WHOLE NEW LEVEL

@heffyx

IGNORE THE POWER of social media at your peril. Sharing

your incredible colour work has become vital in order

to boost your online following and expand your

business. Juggling the ins and outs of algorithms and

how to translate likes into actual client relationships

is a constant learning curve… not to mention that

a static image often fails to translate the extent

of work required. Uploading examples of eyecatching

looks or dramatic transformations

will certainly see high engagement, but it can

also make managing client expectations

and knowledge of colour maintenance

that little bit harder to negotiate. Social

media has been proven to reach new

and existing clients in ways that were

previously impossible. Whether you’re

active on Instagram daily or prefer to post

sporadically across social media, we work

in an age where you simply can’t afford to

ignore it. “As businesses we need to be

using social media to our advantage,”

says 2019 NHBF Best Social Media

Award winner, Heffy Wheeler

of HX Hair. “Although it can

often feel like a ball and chain

– constantly having to think

about the content, factoring in

the time it takes to post and the

planning involved.”

42 | PAINT


@craigsworldofhair

PRESS PLAY

Social media is instantly reactive, giving colourists the opportunity to share their work

or news in real time. This is perfect for showcasing the latest trends, techniques and

tutorials, or updates and launches within the salon. More and more colourists are

turning to Instagram TV (IGTV) or YouTube to showcase their colour creations or hair

transformations to both professionals and consumers. “I’ve always had a policy to share

everything,” explains socially-savvy hairdresser Craig Purves. “Whether it’s educational

content for hair professionals or top tips for your clients, my biggest piece of advice is to

be authentic.”

Most people find a medium that chimes with what they’re trying to communicate. Craig

adds: “Put yourself out there in whatever way you feel comfortable with. Create content

that you feel proud to share and enjoy making, then others will feel the same about it.”

In the age of algorithms, advertising and everything in between, it can be hard to

gauge genuine engagement across channels, but for Craig it is often his video content

on Instagram which performs well. He shared that his mini tutorials and longer IGTV

‘process’ videos receive the most views. “I’ve always known education is an integral part

of our industry, but the ability to react swiftly via my channels by sharing knowledge is so

fantastic,” he concludes.

@thecolourbarwirral

We’re always looking to change

and improve our social media

channels. There’s no right or

wrong, it’s just trying different

things to see what works. At the

moment we find asking questions

or creating a poll encourages

followers to interact and engage

more with our work

BECKY SMITH

THE COLOUR BAR, WIRRAL

PAINT | 43


Digi Educa

QUESTION EVERYTHING

Samantha Cusick London has recently launched a weekly series on Instagram Stories to

give followers the opportunity to send in questions for the team to answer. “Social media

now plays such an instrumental role in our industry and it can be utilised in so many ways

to help build your business. When it comes to using my own channels, I approach it in the

way that I like to use Instagram myself, as a consumer,” says founder Samantha. “I like to

follow companies and influencers that give honest and credible advice, so that is exactly

what I aim to offer.”

Discussing product recommendations or retail up-selling during appointments doesn’t

come naturally to everyone, but hosting these regular question and answer sessions

online helps to break down that barrier when it comes to aftercare. “It’s about making

genuine product recommendations to them that I know work, rather than just appearing

to endorse them at the end of an appointment for a quick financial gain. Imagine how

refreshing it would be if your clients already knew they needed sulphate-free shampoos,”

she adds.

Using the voting or poll features on Instagram also works as an effective way to boost

engagement by requesting responses from followers. It gives vital insight for creating

future content or can build excitement, such as sharing ‘sneak peeks’ of transformations.

Wella Professionals Passionista Thomas Frear has experimented with the wide variety

of tools that are available to see what prompts engagement with his followers. “I try and

utilise every tool on Instagram – the more interactive something is, the more I find people

react and follow what you’re doing,” he explains.

@be.ironbridge

@heffy

@samanthacusicklondon

STAY ONE STEP AHEAD

While the established social apps are going nowhere, when it comes to building an online

identity it’s important to stay aware of new launches which will take your networking and

brand building one step further.

With more than 60,000 followers on TikTok and more than 900,000 likes across her

posts, OSMO ambassador Heffy has been using the trending app to share her colour

creations and transformations. “TikTok is a huge video platform that has slipped under the

radar of our industry for some reason, despite having over one billion users worldwide.

The short video app is ideal for creatives to express themselves and their work.” The best

part about it? It’s so much fun to use! “With users all over the world, it’s gives hairdressers

freedom to create and play without just creating content to appeal to clients for column

bookings. It puts some of the fun back into social media,” Heffy adds.

When I post on Instagram I often

give insights into what formulas I

have used, which is so important.

I love to see what other colour

ranges can do too on other

people’s threads. It’s always about

learning; what I share encourages

clients to ask questions, such as

what methods have been used

to achieve the look

BROOKE EVANS

BE IRONBRIDGE

44 | PAINT


@tombadgerhair

Videos are one of the best ways

to educate clients online because

they’re more engaging than

detailed paragraphs telling you

the process. I love posting formula

breakdowns to Stories or IGTV. Still

photos are great, and are needed

when it comes to educating, but I

think the post needs to be short

and sweet if you want people to

take the information in

THOMAS BADGER

WELLA PROFESSIONALS PASSIONISTA

ALWAYS ENGAGE

“Engage, engage, ENGAGE,” urges Wella Professionals Passionista Thomas Badger.

“Get your followers talking – ask them questions and get them to ask you questions.

Ask for client selfies, tag them in your posts, ask them to tag you. Sharing is caring

and it’s the way forward for social.” Instagram’s algorithms are notoriously finicky,

but for real numbers you need to remember that this mythical engagement is a twoway

street. Rather than just sitting and waiting for people to discover you,

Thomas recommends reaching out to bridge the gap – liking, commenting on

and reacting to other people’s content. “The more your online presence

is engaged, the more people will start to come across your online account.

It will rapidly grow your following and client base,” Thomas adds.

Likewise, if you want to build your engagement with clients online then

you have to build a rapport. “People want to feel part of a community, so I

always aim to respond to every message or comment. Nobody wants to be

left hanging, and by replying it shows that you care about the client and are

passionate about the industry,” explains Samantha Marais of the Schwarzkopf

Professional Collective.

Using Instagram for business purposes requires a different approach to

that of your personal account. It’s a free platform that can bring so many

eyes to your salon and skills, but if you fail to engage with it properly then

you’re just another square to be scrolled past. Luckily there are numerous

educational courses available, from brands and experts alike, all geared

towards how to fully utilise Instagram as a platform to get you seen. The likes

of Wella Professionals’ Activate Your Digital Business and Redken’s Strictly

Social courses, or more general digital business skill providers such as

Hubspot Academy, can provide you with all the building blocks you need. If

you’re completely perplexed by the digital scene then these courses can give you

the grounding you need to create an structure to your online work, understand the

algorithmic intricacies, and make sure all eyes are on you. Happy snapping!

@thomasfrearhair

PAINT | 45


Paintb

The latest launches and products to

boost the contents of your colour kit

Get serious lifting power and neutralisation

with new shades from Revlon Professional

Revlonissimo Colorsmetique, which can take

very dark shades lighter in just one step without

warm undertones.

revlonprofessional.co.uk

Blank Canvas from Pulp Riot removes semipermanent

and direct dyes without compromise;

it has a creamy consistency for drip-free

application for foil, isolated and freehand areas,

while the white formula allows you to check on the

colour lift while it processes.

salonsdirect.com

Shine a light on your

creativity with four metallic

shades of Elumen Play.

Mix and match to create

your perfect hue, or add

the two new Grey Elumen

formulas to add a cool

edge to any look.

goldwell.co.uk

Create soothing shades with the new Violets and

Blues from Paul Mitchell Professional Hair Color’s

popular The Demi, from cool blondes

to blue-blacks.

salon-success.co.uk

Cool blondes get an upgrade thanks to the

four new shades from Illumina Color by Wella

Professionals, and there’s a new blonde glazing

menu by UK colour trend expert, Zoë Irwin.

wella.co.uk

“New INOA Glow will allow

my clients to experiment

with tone and have the most

ultra-cool, luminous hair!”

Sarah Black, Linton & Mac

PAINTER and The It List

It Girl 2019

Luminous, reflective hair that looks naturally

perfected – it has to be the L’Oréal Professionnel

INOA Glow collection, a palette of nine shades for

incredible light reflection.

lorealprofessionnel.co.uk

From JOICO brand ambassador Larisa Love

comes the new Color Intensity Love Aura

collection – Hot Kiss, Mauve Amour, Passion Berry,

Peri-Wink or True Lav? Decisions, decisions...

joico.eu

46 | PAINT


Paint a rainbow everyday with the new

CHROMA ID semi-permanent line up from

Schwarzkopf Professional.

schwarzkopfpro.com

Want to reduce damage while creating bright

blondes? Try new Enlightener Freehand

Bond-Strengthening Lightener from Aveda.

aveda.co.uk

Neutralise and nurture

yellow and brassy tones

with Great Lengths Silver

Shine Shampoo, boasting

Keraphlex to improve and

protect hair structure and

help repair existing damage.

greatlengthshair.co.uk

New to

Schwarzkopf

Professional’s

colour brand tbh

– true beautiful

honest – come

five fresh shades

for its Natural

Beige and Natural

Chocolate

collections.

schwarzkopfpro.

com

After years in development, ASP Affinage Salon Professional

has launched the new and updated INFINITI colour range, with

139 shades, colour additives, toners and colour highlighting.

The line-up contains 92 per cent naturally derived ingredients

and includes new shades, b:BROWN.

asphair.com

Inspired by cool

earthy tones,

Smoked Cedar and

Driftwood shades

join the Shades EQ

Gloss Matte family.

redken.co.uk

Protect your Guy Tang #MyDentity colour

work with new #MyConfidant shampoo and

conditioner, which prolongs colour tone and

vibrancy for up to 50 washes.

salon-success.co.uk

A 100 per cent vegan hair colour, Color Wear by

ALFAPARF Milano offers 46 shades and its new

tube packaging will be produced using 100 per

cent post-industrial recycled aluminium, reducing

CO2 emissions by 20 per cent.

xperthair.ie

Cut down on colour waste by downloading Vish,

where you can add all the details of the colour

products you use, and use a Bluetooth scale to

always weigh out the right amount of colour.

getvish.com

Want something bright and bold for summer?

There are 10 intense direct dyes (and a clear)

in the line-up from staino by evo fab pro to

experiment with.

evohair.com

There are eight new Cool Inforced shades now

in the Majirel line-up from L’Oréal Professionnel

– there’s a new pack, a new cap, but the same

adored formula.

lorealprofessionnel.co.uk

PAINT | 47


Art schl

It’s playtime all the time with these education courses.

Remember an apple for teacher...

ASP Affinage Salon

Professional

Advanced Creative Colouring

This one-day workshop at the

ASP Academy with ASP global

ambassador Tracey Devine-

Smith is full of inspiration. Watch

Tracey’s advanced colouring skills

and incredible creativity in this

practical, hands-on session.

20 April, Romsey

01794 527 111, asphair.com

ALFAPARF Milano

Seamless Colour

This full-day course is designed

to create seamless blends and

colour combinations, with a

focus on high-fashion melts

with Revolution and Neon tones,

balayage with a twist and creative

shine bands. With Mel McNeill,

Xpert Professional’s Technician

of the Year 2019, and Ben Close

from Benjamin Close Hairdressing.

9 March, Bangor, Northern Ireland

academy@xperthair.ie,

xpertpro.ie

Aveda

Air Touch Atelier

This exclusive Vladimir Sarbashev

event will teach UK colourists

his famous Air Touch technique,

which uses air from a hair dryer,

rather than backcombing, when

balayage colouring to create a

seamless blend of colour that

grows out beautifully.

31 March, Aveda London

Academy

0370 428 6382,

bstace@aveda.co.uk

evo

Creative Placement 2.0 –

Fundamental Staino Techniques

This colour technique class will

take you on a journey to awaken

your inner genius from its slumber,

so you can slay commercial

techniques on the salon floor.

October 11, The Kings Canary,

London

education@evohair.com,

evohaireducation.eventbrite.com

Fudge Professional

Headpaint Colour Essentials

Hair structure, the colour wheel,

peroxide choice, delivering target

shades, formulating and colour

correction… find out all this and

more to boost your confidence in

the brand’s colour ranges.

29 April, Alan Howard Chester

01706 644803,

alanhoward.co.uk

Goldwell

Color Lab

For senior colourists, learn

to express your vision in

personalised colour and formula

concepts. This is about perfecting

your colour signature to create a

truly memorable statement.

4 April, London

020 3540 1200,

goldwell.co.uk/education

JOICO

JoiColor Specialist

Become a master in JoiColor

on this five-day programme,

designed to develop your

expertise and knowledge on

the brand’s system. Grow your

understanding of the science

behind hair structure and the

effects of colour on the hair, giving

you the ability to perfect each and

every colour for every client.

7-9 September and 5-6 October,

Laceys Studio, Reading

0118 930 2338, laceysltd.co.uk

L’Oréal Professionnel

Balayage Benefits

Siobhan Jones, founder of the

stunning Rose + Wild and colourist

to Little Mix, shares five new

balayage techniques to widen

your skill set and tips on creating

seamless blending. Book and your

Instagram will thank you for it...

31 March, London Academy

coursesuk@loreal.com,

lorealaccess.com/uk

milk_shake

Super Balayage

Andrew Smith delivers his

signature course to empower

colourists with knowledge and

confidence to take balayage skills

to the next level, leaving you to

create unique, bespoke blends.

6 April, Phoenix Hair & Beauty,

Cambridgeshire

01392 365 177,

milkshakehaircare.co.uk

Paul Mitchell

Perfect Canvas

Creating the perfect base for

muted metallics, brights and

pastels is essential. This

hands-on class will help guide you

through the fundamentals and

chemistry of Blonding with Paul

Mitchell Professional Hair Color.

6 July, Aylesbury

0845 659 0011,

salon-success.co.uk/education

Pulp Riot

Total Colour

This look and learn course

is a great introduction of the

’Grammable brand, covering the

full Pulp Riot portfolio, including

both vivids and permanent colour.

It will challenge your thought

process to give you a new

perspective on colour.

24 March, Alan Howard Leeds

0113 270 0010,

alanhoward.co.uk

Redken

Color Obsessed

Understand the principles behind

natural pigments, the colour

wheel, neutralisation and the

effects of colour on hair. This is a

confidence boost for colourists

looking to create perfect results.

5 May, Manchester

coursesuk@loreal.com,

lorealaccess.com/uk

Revlon Professional

Bespoke Colour

Discover how to maximise your

colour business with Thomas Hills.

Whether you’re a great colourist,

stylist or salon owner, this will

uncover the elements needed to

evolve your colour operation.

26 May, Westrow Academy Leeds

020 7391 7440,

revlonprofessional.com

48 | PAINT


Schwarzkopf

Professional

Master of Colour

This 11-day course is the highest

standard in the brand’s colour

education, immersing you in

the IGORA Royal system. From

philosophy and selection of

shades through to advanced

application and the latest creative

techniques, you’ll get coaching

and hands-on experience in all

aspects of colour education.

Begins 30 March, Manchester

01442 278 000,

askacademy.co.uk

TIGI

Freehand Painting

In this intermediate course,

colourists will gain a deeper

understanding of classic freehand

painting, its application and its

effects and learn how to tailor

balayage techniques to create

consumer-friendly results.

1 July, TIGI Academy London

020 7228 4815,

tigiprofessional.com/education

Wella Professionals

Colour Craft Correction

Banish those colour bands

and more! This two-day course

combines theory with hands-on

workshops to change the way you

look at colour correction forever.

Learn what questions to ask

and how to develop a long-term

journey for your client.

3-4 June, Manchester

0161 834 2645,

education.wella.com

Goldwell Couture Collection INTREPID

STARMAKERS

This is where you can make those dreams come true. Are you ready?

The Coterie

WHERE London/regional pop-ups

This fashion-focused networking club offers a

unique opportunity to mix with your peers and

hear from the biggest names in hairdressing,

fashion and beyond.

creativeheadmag.com/store

L’Oréal Colour Trophy

WHEN Regional Semi-Finals start 25 March.

Grand Final is 1 June

WHERE Nationwide. The Grand Final is at

Battersea Evolution

The longest running colour competition is

celebrating its 65th anniversary, so 2020 is

going to be big for the winners across the

categories – the prize includes a shoot in New

York City! Look out too for the new L’Oréal Colour

Trophy College Award.

lorealcolourtrophy.com

Redken Symposium On Tour

WHEN 17 to 19 May

WHERE Milan

Redken takes a vacation from its Las Vegas

home for Symposium and jets to Italy, where

classes include Color your World, featuring

techniques and inspiration from the streets of

NYC to the Quadrilatero della moda in Milan.

uk.lorealaccess.com

Wella TrendVision Award

WHEN: Regional Heats early June; UK &

Ireland Final 28 September

WHERE Nationwide; UK & Ireland Final is at

The Roundhouse, London

Hold onto your hats, the Wella TrendVision Award

is boasting a serious makeover! New categories

include Colour Specialist and Craft Artist, and all

entries need to be uploaded to Instagram. And

there are more places to grab at the Regional

Heats – what’s stopping you? Photographic

entries must be tagged with @WellaHairUK

by 9 April, with results revealed on 27 April.

wella.co.uk/trendvision

Goldwell Global Creative Awards

WHEN UK final is July, Global final

11 to 12 October

WHERE UK final is in London, Global final

will be Amsterdam

Replacing the Color Zoom competition, these

new awards have fresh Editorial Categories, new

Technical Categories and no trend directions to

follow, so your colour creativity can go ballistic.

Global Gold winners will receive a coveted

International Gold Trophy, worldwide press

and editorial coverage, a cash prize of about

£2,000 for the Editorial Categories, and

participation in a future Goldwell photo shoot for

the Technical Categories. Deadline for entries

is 31 May, and the UK winners will be revealed

in true Goldwell style in July. They go on to

compete globally in Amsterdam in October at

the Kao Salon Global Experience.

globalcreativeawards.com

Most Wanted and The

It List Awards

WHEN 7 September

WHERE London

The very best of British and Irish hairdressing will

be competing for the hottest trophies in town.

Keep an eye on the Most Wanted Colour Expert

category – who will wear the colour crown next?

creativeheadmag.com/mostwanted

2020

2020

Get your Most Wanted

Colour Expert Award

entry in by 13 May

Wella TrendVision Award 2019 UK & Ireland Award

PAINT | 49


OPINION

IS BALAYAGE

BREAKING

YOUR

BUSINESS?

IT’S THE FREEHAND COLOUR SERVICE THAT CLIENTS

(AND THEIR INSTAGRAM ACCOUNTS) ADORE, BUT

EDWARD HEMMINGS, CREATIVE DIRECTOR AT

EDUCATION PROVIDER ALAN D, IS ADAMANT BALAYAGE

IS BAD FOR A SALON’S LONG-TERM BUSINESS

Edward Hemmings

Training at Alan D

Is balayage ruining business? In my opinion, and that of many of

the employers we train for, it is. The technique began in France

in the ’90s but the colour was brought close to the roots. The

Californian honey blonde with sun-blasted roots look is now the

fashion, and has become softer and more natural as hair itself has

been left longer.

There are various techniques and methods, but all of them

actively increase time between visits to the salon by creating soft

blending points between root and lengths as opposed to root

colouring and highlights, which need more regular maintenance.

Yes, in certain circumstances, roots need to be filled, but with

those gentle blends your clients can wait an extra week or two (or

even a month) or, even worse, grab a box off the shelf to brighten

it up. Am I saying this alone is ruining our businesses? No, but

together with the trend for long, one-length hair, we are not seeing

our clients as regularly as we should. Until we start cutting hair

shorter again and giving clients an excuse to return every six

weeks or less, how do we expect to grow our businesses?

Supermarkets offer every type of product, electrical item and

wet line, many with the same labels as can be seen in our salons.

They offer clients the tools to make to make our work look amazing

for longer – but what they cannot offer is a haircut.

To make the change, I believe we need to start by looking at

ourselves. Do we project the right image? It will only take a couple

of team members to have that shorter bob and, with the power of

social media, all of your clients will get to see it. I recently had the

good fortune to judge the Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa junior

competition and it was refreshing to see shorter haircuts and more

graphic colours, still with a commercial and feminine feel. That

change has started internally.

Keep doing balayage because let’s face it, it looks so beautiful.

But to make money we need our clients in our chair every six

weeks! Short grad bob with ombre anyone?

Have you got an opinion to share? Let us know @creativeheadmag and we’ll start a conversation

50 | PAINT


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