The premier hair colour magazine, from Creative HEAD
S/S20
light
LET THERE BE
OPEN FOR ENTRY!
CREATIVE HEAD’S MOST WANTED AND THE IT LIST AWARDS
CELEBRATE THE MOST EXCITING AND ACCOMPLISHED
TALENTS IN UK AND IRISH HAIRDRESSING.
WILL YOU SEE YOUR NAME IN LIGHTS IN 2020?
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MWIT2020
CREATIVEHEADMAG.COMMOSTWANTED
CREATIVEHEADMAG.COMTHEITLIST
COMPETITIONS CLOSE MONDAY 13 MAY
THIS IS
CONTENTS
OUR MISSION IS TO CELEBRATE COLOUR AND THE ARTISTS CREATING IT –
AND TALK FRANKLY ABOUT WHAT’S HAPPENING IN THE SALON AND ONLINE
08
PAINTERS
Our team share their top Instagram inspirations
16
22
30
36
42
46
48
50
THE FORECAST
The most wearable colour trends from the catwalk
THIS CHANGED MY LIFE
Watershed moments in the lives of colourists
ENTER THE TONE ZONE
How to make the most of toners in your business
IN UNISON
The ASP Colour Rebels celebrate inclusiveness
SOCIAL GATHERING
It takes more than just a like to build an online following
PAINTBOX
The latest launches for your colour kit
ART SCHOOL
Boost your skills with these colour courses
OPINION
Edward Hemmings asks: is balayage bad for business?
16
30
36
42
50
22
ON THE COVER
Hair by the ASP Colour Rebels and ASP Affinage Salon
Professional global ambassador Tracey Devine-Smith
EDITOR Amanda Nottage DEPUTY EDITOR Deborah Murtha ART DIRECTOR Nick Jabbal CONTRIBUTORS Kelsey Dring, Anna Samson
DIGITAL DESIGNER Eva Vestmann CHIEF SUB EDITOR Adam Wood COMMERCIAL EDITOR Eve Wagstaff PUBLISHER Catherine Handcock
PAINT is a supplement of Creative HEAD. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior permission from the publisher. All information is correct at time of going to press. Printing by Buxton Press
Colr
Crush
VISIT PAINT ONLINE AND SEE OUR RESIDENT PAINTERS SHARE EVERYTHING FROM
TECHNIQUES TO FORMULAS AND CLIENT ADVICE. WE ASKED THEM TO NAME THREE
INSTAGRAM ACCOUNTS THEY FIND MOST INSPIRING. GET READY TO DOUBLE TAP…
@mrstevenphilip
A friend from my clubbing
days in the ’90s, Steven is
founder of the vintage store
Rellik in Ladbroke Grove. He
has one the most diverse
collections of archived
designs, from bespoke
McQueen to Vivienne
Westwood show pieces. It’s
definitely a place to explore.
@darrenambrose
Darren Ambrose is by
far one of my favourite
hairdressers in the industry.
His work is always on
point and always fashionforward.
He’s a great pal
and one of the most humble
human beings. I never fail
to be inspired by his awardwinning
looks.
Ja Gray
@dustmagazine
A quality magazine that
never fails to deliver. It’s
full of really edgy editorials
that capture the eye
and the imagination. I’m
constantly drawn in by its
unique way of showcasing
work. The front covers are
always epic!
AKA KARBON KYD
08 | PAINT
Paddy
McDgall
Lexie Shay
Rabbett
RAINBOW ROOM INTERNATIONAL
GuESt
PAINTER!
@HAIR_BY_LEXIESHAY
@RareBooksParis
A treasure trove of
references drawn from
some of the rarest, outof-print
fashion books
and publications around.
From Martin Margiela to
Raf Simons, some of my
favourite images live on
this feed.
@anhcotran
This guy is a lived-in
balayage expert! I stalk his
page all day, every day for
texture cutting techniques,
lived-in styling tips and
some major natural chunky
balayage vibes. I could
watch his videos for hours.
@C__l__o
An online moodboard
run by London-based
creative Lauren Faye. It
is a captivating archive
of images celebrating
the fusion of art, fashion
and photography, and it
provides me with a constant
stream of inspiration.
@PierreCardin
Officiel
The iconic French designer
blazed a trail in the ’60s and
’70s with his use of bold
colours, futuristic shapes,
patterns and textures. The
haute couture collections
provide endless inspiration
and a colour masterclass.
@brandon
messingerhair
I’ve followed Brandon since
I moved to the UK from
Australia. I feel we’re similar
in style but he’s next-level
perfection. If you aren’t
following, do yourself a
favour and get on it because
he is cutting/styling/
colouring realness.
@jaymz.marsters
If you’re a colourist and not
following him, you must
have been living under a
rock! Jaymz is a master in
his craft, perfection is an
understatement regarding
how he applies his colouring
techniques. His creative
mind knows no bounds.
PAINT | 09
Shia Hiln
Casey Coleman
NOT ANOTHER SALON
CHAIR SALONS
2019
@garyvee
My number one is my
business hero Gary. Not
everyone will like him – he’s
loud, aggressive and very
American. He teaches that
you don’t get anything for
nothing, and his work ethic
blows my mind. He’s the
‘you have to get off your
arse and do it’ guy.
@jorel_doherty
Maybe not what you were
expecting here, but I really
like following my husband.
As he’s a stay-at-home
dad, it’s awesome to watch
Stories of him and our kid
playing together. But more
than that, I like reading
what he writes about being
a man at home.
@iamginabianca
I love this chick, she’s a hair
educator from Connecticut.
Straight talking, easy to
understand and real. You
should follow her because
there’s so much to learn
from her. She’s transparent
about everything and
anything, as a good
educator should be.
@conorjmd
Instagram is such an
amazing tool, and I live
for colour! Conor is an
incredible corrective
colourist who constantly
posts ways to make
corrections easier, but
he’s very honest! He’s also
hilarious, so I’m definitely
here for the hair ha-has.
@JamieFurlan
Jamie is an Australian
hair genius. Not only is his
colour work off the charts,
his styling is too. He’s
innovative, creative, and ohso
stylish. I love looking at
what he creates – it sparks
artistic energy in me, and I
can’t get enough.
@shmeggsand
baconn
Megan is a goddess – the
way she colours is brilliant.
I’ll be honest, I’m not a
massive fan of American
aesthetics, they’re normally
way too over the top for me,
but not Megan. She has a
way of capturing her work in
a simple, beautiful way.
10 | PAINT
Sarah Black
LINTON & MAC
@tyler_spangler
I came across Tyler’s work
a few months ago and it
instantly drew me in. I’m
a sucker for good use of
colour and interesting
shade combinations. I love
contrasting elements, so
his use of old black and
white photography mashed
together with vivid digital
art is super cool!
@beautyspock
Frances is a make-up artist
and model who creates
the most beautiful and
interesting colour stories
through hair and makeup.
Everything she does
has a classic concept with
something that makes it
modern and fresh, and
that’s exactly what I aim to
do with my own work.
@renyaxydis
Renya is so effortlessly
good at what she does; or
at least she makes it look
effortless! I love that she
gives insight behind her
looks and how she created
them. That’s the beauty of
social media – you can be on
the other side of the world
from a creative and still
learn something from them.
For more insight, advice, techniques and inspiration, check out
our PAINTERS at creativeheadmag.com/paint
PAINT | 11
12 | PAINT
PLAY WITH GLOW
THE DEMAND FOR GLOWING FINISHES IS ON THE RISE. BECOME A BEACON OF
POSSIBILITIES WITH INOA GLOW SHADES FROM L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL
FOR 2020 IT’S ALL ABOUT that supernatural
glow. Fresh, subtle variations on natural
shades with a healthy-looking, reflective
quality are a booming business proposition.
While there will always be a place for lovers
of adventurous colour, a significant portion
of your colour business will always be the
creation of beautiful, wearable hair.
Building on the success of the Majirel
Glow launch last year, L’Oréal Professionnel
is bringing the same luminosity and ultrawearable
colour to INOA.
INOA Glow is where L’Oréal
Professionnel’s Glow technology meets
indulgence. It’s everything people already
love about the Glow finish and technology
– brilliant neutralisation and luminosity –
now combined with the INOA difference:
ammonia-free colour for a pleasant smell
and optimal scalp comfort.
INOA Glow offers a palette of nine shades,
from ashy to iridescent and mocha. All
shades preserve
the hair’s natural
transparency,
allowing for more
natural and luminous
results. INOA Glow
lifts and neutralises
at the same time,
revealing incredible
light reflection, while
always respecting
the naturally
enhanced effect
from INOA colour
that hairdressers and
clients love.
BEFORE
AFTER
L.28 CHERRY SAND
Light Ash Gl
PAINT | 13
MEET THE
GLOW-GETTERS
THE INOA GLOW CLIENT COULD BE SITTING IN YOUR CHAIR ALREADY
As ever, beauty trends are cyclical in nature
and we’ve returned to clients investing in a
more naturally perfected look. Skincare sales
are overtaking make-up sales, and clients are
seeking new opportunities to enhance their
natural beauty and colour.
There are so many colour opportunities
to discuss with clients. Clients looking to
rejuvenate their hair in a subtle way, cover a
smattering of greys and see a boost in healthy
shine can relax knowing that the shades have
an ultra-natural finish. Younger clients, looking
to take their first steps into colour can be
reassured with the ammonia-free formula and
glossy finish. Colour lovers can experiment with
endless mixing potential.
Millennial and Gen Z clients are open to
having that conversation with you, to explore
the possibilities of hair colour beyond simply
lightening or balayage. For the increasingly
clued-up customer, INOA could be that initial
step into becoming a Glow and colour convert.
The natural-looking results are
perfect for first-time colour clients,
those who previously coloured but
have lapsed and those who want
a refresh in between balayage
appointments. The ammonia-free
colours have a new and improved
texture which offer incredible
light reflection, cool tones and
translucency to sell colour as an
enhanced natural finish.
INOA Glow uses the same
Oil Delivery System (ODS)
that INOA colourists love, with
the combination of the Glow
innovations sparked by Majirel
Glow. INOA Glow can give your
colour menu a fresh lease of life.
BEFORE
AFTER
L.21 FROZEN ROSÉ
Light Iridescent Gl
14 | PAINT
AFTER
D.13 TAUPE LESS + L.13 TAUPE LESS
Light Golden Gl
BEFORE
Let your clients try out INOA Glow colours with
zero commitment. Download the Style My Hair
Pro app for real-time digital transformations
and colour inspiration
Shine a light on no-ammonia colour services with new INOA Glow shades. For more information,
call 0800 030 4034 or visit lorealprofessionnel.co.uk #lorealprouk #lorealproire
PAINT | 15
Max Mara
House of Holland
GCDS
Bora Aksu
The fecast
S/S20
AS EACH SEASON DAWNS, NEW TRENDS AND
TECHNIQUES ARRIVE ON THE RUNWAY, FILTERING
THROUGH INSTAGRAM VIA EDITORIALS AND INTO
THE SALON. WE ASKED TOP HAIR COLOURISTS TO
IDENTIFY THE THREE MOST EXCITING COLOUR TRENDS
FOR S/S20, ENABLING YOU TO RECREATE THE LOOKS
LIGHTING UP SOCIAL MEDIA FOR CLIENTS. IT’S TIME
TO BRUSH UP YOUR COLOUR KNOWLEDGE AND TAKE
YOUR TREND KNOW-HOW TO THE NEXT LEVEL
Erdem
Molly Goddard
Rose Danford-Phillips at On|Off
Paula Knorr
Matty Bovan
16 | PAINT
Sweet treaʦ
Smiths Salons
Charles Worthington
PRODUCTS Infuse My.Colour, ASP INFINITI b.Brown, L’Oréal Professionnel Majirel,
ALFAPARF Milano Precious Nature , Wella Professionals Koleston Perfect ME+ Pure Naturals
ASP Affinage Salon Professional
TIGI
DAKS
Schwarzkopf Professional
THE TREND
CHOCOLATE BOX
From gooey caramels and
praline mousses to rich cocoas
and dark ganache, there’s a
sweet treat of inspiration for
every head of hair this season.
“Tones ranging from buttery
blondes to mocha brunettes
work together to create a rich
colour,” says Katie Hale, head of
colour at Charles Worthington.
“The chocolate box trend
encompasses a range of
super-healthy, shiny and multidimensional
chocolate tones
from white chocolate to dark
cocoa,” agrees Adrian Paoluccio,
colour artist at Smiths Salons in
Soho. “I normally use freehand
techniques with a combination
of strand lights to achieve
these natural looks, and always
finish with a glossy toner by
Schwarzkopf Professional.”
Clients with finer hair will
love this look, as the different
tones can give the impression
of added volume. “The multidimensional
colour will make
hair seem thicker and healthier,”
says Krysia Eddery, Aveda
colour ambassador and owner
of Perfectly Posh Hair. “Toasted
blondes, with flecks of darker
shades throughout give a super
blended finish.”
This trend has a natural feel
too, according to Kerrie O’Reilly,
TIGI European technical director.
“For brunettes, the key is not to
oversaturate,” she says. “Add
depth and dimension to create
movement and step away from a
flat, block colour.”
The beauty of this trend is
creating a bespoke look. “We will
see lots of colour placement to
frame the face, and contouring
layers to complement skin tones,”
says Tracy Hayes, global head
of technical training at Fudge
Professional. “Each technique
and placement will be individual
and will send the message that
this is expensive hair.”
PAINT | 17
Wella Professionals
THE TREND
SKY HIGH
Heads will be in the clouds this
summer – from the soft pinks of
sunrise and the bright cobalt of
midday through to burnt sunsets
and shimmering twilight tones,
this sky-inspired palette is fresh
and adaptable.
“Pantone’s Colour of the Year
for 2020 is Classic Blue – a
shade reminiscent of the sky at
dusk,” says Steph Peckmore,
colour manager at Bad Apple
Hair. “It’s said to symbolise
what’s coming next – the future,
the unknown and a new decade.
It’s an interesting choice, and
one that will undoubtedly filter
through to hair.”
“I have used blue skies as a
source of inspiration for some
recent creative colour work in
the salon,” explains Sarah Black,
colour expert at Linton & Mac
and The It List It Girl 2019. “Adam
Reed brought out the denim hair
trend a few years back, and last
year we saw more aqua tones –
this year is changing again into
more true blues.”
Neil Barton, owner of
Neil Barton and Goldwell
ambassador, suggests that
the pale colours associated
with dawn are another way to
tap into this trend. “I definitely
think muted pastel tones will be
popular in 2020,” he says. “Think
softer tones that fade beautifully
like peaches, lilacs and dusk-like
pinks. These are the perfect
shades as we move into spring.”
And for the more wary clients
who want a low commitment
way to tap into this trend, Aveda
offers a range of services called
Lightwaves. “The tonal quality
of these trends will suit every
skin tone,” says Joe Hill, lead
colour educator for Aveda UK.
“From cooler mink-like dusk
tones through to warmer bright
daylight tones, there is a shade
to suit every need.”
PANTONE
APUJAN
Classic Blue
Dawn dusk
Bad Apple Hair Stil Salon
PRODUCTS Staino by evo fab pro, Paul Mitchell The Demi, TIGI Copyright Colour True Light
Freestyle Blonder, Aveda Full Spectrum Vibrants, Goldwell Elumen Play, JOICO Color Intensity
Pearl Pastel
Aveda
evo fab pro
18 | PAINT
Fashion images courtesy of ANTI, Aveda, BaByliss PRO, ghd, L’Oréal Professionnel, R+Co and Wella Professionals
HOB Salons
Bleach London
Siking t
Robert Eaton for
Wella Professionals
PRODUCTS Revlon Professional Revlonissimo Cromatics, Redken Shades EQ Gloss,
Schwarzkopf Professional Chroma ID, Fudge Professional Head Paint, Guy Tang #mydentity
Mimi Wade
Slunks
Fyodor Golan
THE TREND
HEAVY
CONTRAST
The ’90s are undoubtedly here
to stay. It started with chokers
and sportswear, and now
blocky, high contrast hair is
having a moment. Play with root
stretches, chunky highlights and
statement sections for a look
that’s equally retro and modern.
“This trend was huge in the
late ‘90s when the likes of Gwen
Stefani and Christina Aguilera
were brave enough to wear it,”
explains Warren Boodaghians,
head of technical at HOB Salons
and Academy. “Clients can go
strong and bold with the colour
placement or alter the contrast
between dark and light by going
softer for a more delicate finish.”
The crowd visiting Bleach
London regularly request
statement colour at the front
of their hair. “It’s a nod to the
’90s but it gained popularity
with designer Mimi Wade,” says
Bleach founder Alex Brownsell.
Combining these colours
with a carefully chosen cut can
elevate the look further. “This
can suit a more simplistic and
structured shape along with
anyone who wants to make a
stronger statement with colour,”
says Wella UK and Ireland
technical director Robert Eaton.
“It’s all about research and
looking into some of the shapes
and colour placement used,
while at the same time giving
it a modern and more current
twist.” Anne Veck, owner of Anne
Veck in Oxford, points out that
this trend can be adapted for a
gentler look. “Britain is going to
go crazy for contrast hair à la
Cruella De Vil, but it doesn’t
have to be as stark as her look,”
she says. “Subtler colouring will
become more widespread. Use
a centre parting with a half-half
look for striking effect.”
PAINT | 19
Violeʦ are blue…
DIVE A LITTLE DEEPER INTO COLOUR WITH NEW VIOLET AND BLUE SHADES
FROM PAUL MITCHELL PROFESSIONAL HAIR COLOR’S THE DEMI
JUST WHEN YOU think you know what you
can achieve with demi-permanent hair colour,
something comes along to expand your
colour horizons.
Five new Violet and Blue shades join the
already successful line-up of The Demi from
Paul Mitchell Professional Hair Color to offer
true violet and blue ash undertones, ranging
from cool blonde to rich blue-black.
Three bottles of Paul Mitchell The Demi
are sold every minute worldwide, and it’s
not hard to see why. These intermixable
formulas can be used to create unique
shades, or be used alone for shiny,
vibrant and healthy-looking finishes.
The smooth gel consistency offers
gentle, no-ammonia colour deposit
for rich colour results that last up
to six weeks.
The new shades span the
spectrum between delicate violet
and deepest cobalt, perfect for
tapping into Pantone’s trending
Colour of the Year, Classic Blue.
20 | PAINT
COLIN CARUSO, ARTISTIC DIRECTOR OF PAUL MITCHELL
PROFESSIONAL HAIR COLOR, SHARES ADVICE ON HOW TO STAY
ON TOP OF THE TRENDS WITH THE DEMI VIOLETS AND BLUES
PAINT: The Demi shade offering is expanding with the addition of the Violets and Blues.
What can we expect from these new shades?
Colin Caruso: You can expect the same healthy shine, vibrant saturation and fluid
consistency you always get from The Demi. These tones are on-trend and they work right out
of the bottle! Add them to any shade (except for Muted Metallics) to add coolness and depth
to any formula. Get creative and see where it takes you. Don’t be afraid to swatch – swatching
is key. Also, a capful can go a long way on lighter tones to create innovative new blondes.
PAINT: What other colour trends can we expect to see this year?
CC: We will continue to see cool, pale blonde tones inspired by nature. Even matte green
undertones on blondes will trend. Guests want an element of individuality, but also like the
idea of ‘natural’, especially in blondes. Red-brown hybrids will continue to rise. Jade green
and metallic blue-blacks will trend at deeper levels. Blues, greys and taupes are still on-trend
as well, with a balanced palette of colours to avoid looking silver. Either way, healthy-looking
hair is always trending!
PAINT: How can stylists adapt these trends for their everyday guests?
CC: It’s good to be prepared. Swatch formulas to test and be ready for trends before they
come into the salon. Nothing is worse than trying to figure out how to do a new trend on a
first-time, paying guest. Use your social media channels to attract guests who are willing
to wear these new colours and get to work. Practice makes perfect.
Expand your colour horizons with the The Demi Violets and Blues, available exclusively from
Salon Success. For more information call 0845 659 0011 or visit salon-success.co.uk
PAINT | 21
AINE CARTY
THE EVENT: Redken Symposium
THIS CHANGED my life
YOUR CAREER CAN TRANSFORM IN A MOMENT – A DISTINCT BEFORE AND
AFTER, WHERE THINGS WERE NEVER THE SAME AGAIN. THESE COLOURISTS
ALL HAD MOMENTS AT EVENTS OR THROUGH EDUCATION THAT PROPELLED
THEIR CAREERS TO NEW HEIGHTS… IS YOUR MOMENT NEXT?
“Redken queen Sheri Doss had an Instagram post looking for people to share their
story and personal experiences about what Redken meant to them. I reached out and
honestly never thought any more of it. Fast forward a couple of months and I found myself
at the Redken Symposium in Las Vegas, representing Ireland as a brand ambassador
on an international stage for the opening show. I was completely over the moon at
the opportunity. The hard-hitting moment for me was being on stage with three other
ambassadors, seeing our faces on a gigantic screen.
“The impact on my career was incredible. It helped to raise my profile and grow my
following within the industry, headlining masterclasses and facilitating seminars. I’ve
had colourists and stylists DM-ing me for formulas or advice on a certain look or shade,
hairdressers wanting selfies, even a young mum telling me I had inspired her. It was an
incredibly humbling experience.”
JORDANNA COBELLA
THE EVENT: Wella Professionals Master
Colour Expert programme
“Before completing the Master Colour
Expert programme I felt as though I was
colouring blindly. I had my favourite goto
shades and didn’t take advantage
of the full colour portfolio due to a lack
of in-depth knowledge on product
technology. I was very comfortable with
most colouring services, but when it came
to colour correction, I would have a lot of
unanswered questions and find myself in
situations I did not anticipate.
“Knowledge really is power, and the
course helped me answer the why as
well as the how. I can now predict every
potential scenario for colour and my
experience and skill set has improved
dramatically. There were so many lightbulb
moments along the way.”
22 | PAINT
NEIL BARTON
THE EVENT: Goldwell Color Zoom Challenge
Educa
“I was the first ever UK winner of the Goldwell Color Zoom Trophy
in 2010, winning the Creative Category in Paris, which was
incredible. The win really did enhance my career and opened up
so many opportunities. It got my name out there as being a great
colourist, and now I travel the globe with Goldwell and share my
skills, knowledge and expertise with hairdressers all over the world.
“I was honoured and surprised when I received the Global Zoom
Hall of Fame trophy in 2018 in Toronto – the award is given to a
person who maximises their win at the Color Zoom Challenge,
someone who has developed their career and has mentored
people throughout the Goldwell network. It was proof of how that
initial win has played a huge part in my career.”
SINÉAD KELLY AND
VAS MIKELLIDES
THE EVENT: L’Oréal Colour Trophy
“It’s one thing to win the L’Oréal Colour Trophy Grand Final once,
but going in the second time, the biggest thing for us was to
implement the techniques we had in mind. The fact that we
won – again – gave us a whole new platform. We were invited to
showcase at L’Oréal Colour Congress, which was our first time
presenting there. It’s something we’re considering doing more of in
the future as we had some people asking us about courses.
“The win also profiled the Sinéad Kelly salon a lot more. The first
win – especially being a small, independent salon – can almost
seem like an anomaly. Most people who have won the competition
just tick it off the list and move on, but it really cemented our
position. The pressure was quite high to try again, we went with
what we wanted to do because we could try something a bit left
field, something you might not normally consider for a competition
like this. Winning it twice also made a big difference with our
clients, on a consumer level. It proved who we are, and validates
the prices we charge.”
Have you heard about Goldwell’s brand new
Global Creative Awards? Find our Colour
Contest Cheat Sheet with all the details
on creativeheadmag.com/paint
MARK LEESON
THE EVENT: Most Wanted Colour Expert Award
“A massive turning point in my colouring career was winning
Creative HEAD’s Most Wanted Colour Expert – in 2010 and 2014.
To say I was delighted is an understatement, and to be recognised
for my passion was, and is, so rewarding. On a business level it
helped us to grow and open new salons, gain column inches, and
employ dedicated team members, along with shoots, education
around the world and events.
“It really validated our colour expertise. I realised 20 years ago
that colour was, and continues to be, the core of my business.
I knew I wanted to have true mastery of colour – and in
particular, perfecting blondes was my goal. Anyone can
lighten hair but it’s what you do with it afterwards, and
toning for me is still where my team and I excel.”
Are you the next Most Wanted Colour Expert?
Go to creativeheadmag.com/mostwanted
VIBRANTLY
H A P P Y
WHO SAYS NATURALLY-DERIVED COLOUR CAN’T DO VIVID? LET US BRIGHTEN
UP YOUR COLOUR BAR WITH FULL SPECTRUM VIBRANTS FROM AVEDA
*From plants, non-petroleum minerals or water
THERE HAS NEVER been a more exciting,
playful and experimental time for hair
colour (thanks Instagram!), or a time when
consumers have been more concerned
with sustainability and the impact of the
choices they make.
But the perception has long been
that if a product is naturally derived, its
performance suffers. And colourists need
to know they will get the results that they
need delivered, every time. Well, salon
colour’s getting brighter.
Full Spectrum Vibrants from Aveda is
a semi-permanent treatment hair colour
palette of intense shades that can be
mixed to create a spectacular spectrum
of results, from sheer and translucent
to opaque and vivid… with no developer
needed! Because this line-up is 95 per
cent naturally derived,* Full Spectrum
Vibrants provides instant shine and
nourishing condition, thanks to its
signature blend of protective plant oils
and plant-derived ingredients.
By fusing a conditioning blend of
certified organic plant oils, including
kukui, sunflower, castor and jojoba, this
colour range helps improve the condition
of damaged hair and provides radiant
shine that will look killer under a ring light!
With a brilliant 11 shades to choose from,
you’ll know you can find the perfect shade
for your colour-loving but eco-conscious
client. This is vivid colour, naturally
derived, that delivers. The future just got a
whole lot brighter…
FULL SPECTRUM VIBRANTS – WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW
• Smooth consistency = easy application, thanks to corn-derived solvents
• No nasty aroma as certified organic ylang ylang, petitgrain and ginger deliver a
floral, spicy fragrance
• There are no synthetic glycols, silicones, phthalates, parabens, mineral oil,
oxidative dyes or ammonia in the formula
AZALEA RASPBERRY POPPY TANGERINE DAFFODIL EMERALD LAGOON COBALT IRIS CHARCOAL CLEAR
24 | PAINT
Want to see what colourists can achieve with
Full Spectrum Vibrants from Aveda?
Turn the page and take a peek…
PAINT | 25
FRESH LIFESTYLE SALON & SPA
@freshlifestyleaveda
ELEMENTS HAIR & BEAUTY
@elements_hair_and_beauty
BLOOM
@bloomavedalifestyle
#LETSGETVIBRANT
RINGLIGHTS AT THE READY – LET’S SEE HOW UK AVEDA COLOURISTS ARE
SHARING THEIR WORK WITH FULL SPECTRUM VIBRANTS ON INSTAGRAM
GINA CONWAY
@gina_conway_aveda
JO MCKAY
@joelouisemckay
THE WONDERLAB
@thewonderlabhair
OXYGEN
@oxygenaveda
BUTCHERS SALON
@butcherssalon
BROTHERS OXFORD
@brothersoxford
26 | PAINT
SAY HELLO TO JOE HILL
MEET @THECOLOURBOY, THE AVEDA COLOUR WHIZZ WHO’S HERE TO HELP MAKE YOUR COLOUR CAREER POP!
WHAT DOES YOUR ROLE ENTAIL?
My role is Aveda colour
specialist UK & Ireland, and
I’m on the Aveda UK & Ireland
Pro Team. My job is split in two;
firstly I work with the Aveda
salon network creating technical
education plans to help drive
their business to the next level.
I also work with all the teams
within Aveda to ensure we can
offer our salon network and
salon guests the most from Aveda colour, whether this is working
with PR on photo shoots or sales teams… no day is ever the same!
WHAT ARE YOUR FAVOURITE VIBRANTS SHADES TO PLAY WITH?
I love them all, however I really like creating vintage, aged-looking
colours at the moment. Think faded mauve or blushed bronze.
That’s why I like working with our charcoal shade and intermixing
with whatever tone will suit!
WHAT’S EXCITING FROM AVEDA EDUCATION IN 2020?
I am super-excited about our exclusive partnership with Vladimir
Sarbashev. He’s the creator of the AirTouch Technique, a modern
way to freehand balayage hair utilising airflow as your tool. It really
is a game-changer.
WHY DO YOU LOVE WORKING WITH AVEDA COLOUR?
It’s so unique and honestly that’s what I really love about it. I have
been colouring hair for more than 18 years and I’ve never used a
colour line that expands my creativity and gives my salon guests
ultimate options like this, because Aveda Full Spectrum colour is
fully customisable. It’s also 95 per cent naturally derived.*
WHAT’S IN STORE FOR YOU NEXT?
Block colour versus natural colour. I think the next big application
trend is going to be working with the beautiful natural canvases we
all know and love and adding geometry through focal areas like the
fringe or under the parting. For example, taking a natural-looking
balayage and creating extremely light sections through the focal
area utilising triangle/square or circular sections, merging extreme
natural with extreme bold.
WHAT ARE YOUR TOP TIPS FOR COLOURISTS SHARING THEIR WORK ON INSTAGRAM?
There are so many elements to creating an amazing feed. First of
all, be personable! We have seconds to capture an audience so let
your personality shine. Second, when taking the image, find a nice
brick wall/plain background or, if your salon has no spare space,
buy a pull-down projector blind for an affordable photoshoot finish.
HOW SHOULD COLOURISTS TAG THEIR WORK TO BE SEEN BY AVEDA?
#avedaartist #aveda #avedacolour #avedacolourist
#avedafullspectrumcolour #avedablonde #avedavibrants
*From plants, non-petroleum minerals or water
Want to make your colour business even brighter with Full Spectrum Vibrants? Visit aveda.co.uk/professional
PAINT | 27
FULL METAL
ALCHEMY
GOLDWELL’S NEW METALLIC SHADES ARE POSITIVELY MAGNETIC
28 | PAINT
We had three key requirements when we started looking for a new
colour house. Excellent products, excellent company culture and a
competitive contract agreement. Goldwell met all of these and more
Luke Halford
Addicted to Colour, Leicester
THE FUTURE IS not just bright, it’s metallic. Six new shades have
arrived in the Goldwell Elumen colour collection, including four
shimmering metallic Elumen Play colours. Known for its trendforward
hues, Elumen is here to take shine to a whole new level.
New Light Grey Gy@9 and Medium Grey Gy@6 add a
sophisticated, cool edge to your looks, and there are four new
semi-permanent Elumen Play shades – glistening @Metallic Berry,
glimmering @Metallic Purple, shimmering @Metallic Petrol and shiny
@Metallic Silver – which can be used for all-over shimmer, or to
add glow to your colour creations with metallic sparkles.
The hyper-reflective, glossy results last for up to four weeks and
will fade on tone if Elumen Care is used at home. If your client can’t
wait for a new shade, Elumen Play Eraser quickly removes previous
colour and prepares hair for the next creation! “The new metallic
shades are stunning,” says Goldwell guest artist Nicola Smyth.
“They’re the perfect shades to use directly on your client’s hair.
If you want to play and get creative, all of the colours are
intermixable, so you can come up with totally bespoke results.”
These new additions have entered Goldwell’s outstanding nonoxidative,
ammonia-free Elumen range – an intensive hair colour that
works with direct-acting colour pigments to penetrate deep inside
the hair. Elumen direct dye technology is known for its incredible
shine, extraordinary colour brilliance and longevity, which works to
repair the hair structure even as it colours.
Innovation is at the core of Goldwell’s colour portfolio, resulting in
fresh possibilities for both colourists and consumers. If you have a
creative vision, Goldwell wants to help you achieve it. “I’ve been in the
industry 40 years and I can honestly say that there is no other colour
portfolio like it out there,” says Goldwell ambassador and industry
icon Beverly C. “The colour palettes and the sheer innovation within
the ranges have opened up a whole new world of creativity for me.”
No stone has been left unturned – take Goldwell @Pure Pigments
for example, which feature revolutionary dye technology developed
over 17 years in collaboration with experts at FujiFilm. The result?
Hyper-pigmented colour with unbelievable shine and fade
resistance. Even the colour delivery system has been evolved and
perfected – the Topchic Depot Can system has won over legions
of colourists for its ease, precision and waste reduction. For every
facet of the colour experience, Goldwell never stops seeking to
improve and innovate.
Experience a different way of creating colour. To discover more about Goldwell’s colour portfolio and this season’s metallic shades,
call 0330 123 9530 or visit goldwell.co.uk
PAINT | 29
Ting
Redken Shades EQ
Enter the
TONE ZONE
TONERS ARE GREAT, AREN’T THEY? PERFECT FOR BANISHING UNWANTED BRASS, ADDING A TEMPORARY SHADE OR REFRESHING
SHINE BETWEEN COLOUR APPOINTMENTS – BUT ARE YOU MAKING THE MOST OF THEM IN YOUR BUSINESS?
30 | PAINT
SCROLL THROUGH YOUR Instagram feed, and you’ll notice that
the hair colours that get a whole lotta love are the perfectly toned,
gorgeously glossy finishes that look almost edible, from biscuit
blondes to chocolatey browns and even sugar almond pastels. And,
thanks to tags, consumers can see for themselves precisely the
professional brands being used to deliver this deliciousness. Often
these are shades that can be applied as a service that doesn’t cost
hours or lots of cash. This is the power of the not-so humble toner,
and truly its time is now.
“Toning should be big news in all salons,” asserts Robert Eaton,
UK and Ireland technical director of Wella Professionals and creative
director of Russell Eaton salons. “We’ve really focused our education
to explore creativity with toners and the technical knowledge that
goes alongside it. Everything from instant colour, our colour blowdry
service to longer-lasting toners and glossing services. There
isn’t much you can’t suggest a toner for.”
Indeed, the merits of toners are endless – yet so many salons fail
to make the most out of using them. “Toning should play a starring
role in any salon,” says Steve Rowbottom, co-director of Westrow
salons. “It’s important to educate your clients first and foremost.
The biggest misconception we’ve found is clients think toning is for
colour correction, rather than a tool for personalisation.”
Steve suggests using simple terminology to point out the colouring
options during a consultation and explaining how adding a warmer or
cooler toner cancels out unwanted tones. “Make it clear what toners
are and how they work with your clients’ hair,” he advises.
@blendsalon
Redken Shades EQ Toning Tweakments menu
WHAT’S ON THE MENU?
Sophie Gibson, art team member of salon group Hooker & Young,
emphasises the importance of a toning menu. “It’s important to
make it clear that colour is a journey. Creating a menu that keeps
this in clients’ minds ensures you’re on the same wavelength in
regards to services provided, products needed and overall cost,” she
explains. “Offering toner services after a previous colour service is
vital for maximising profit and loyalty.”
L’Oréal Professionnel Majirel Glow
Clarifying everything on an easy to understand menu opens up
the potential for developing conversations and interest from clients,
suggests Daniel Rice, colour director at Williams & Rice. They might
not be up for a full colour change but might be willing to try a twist on
the usual. “Satisfying that curiosity can open fresh opportunities with
a wide variety of clients; experimenting with tonal shades can lead
to something more complex, with more commitment and a more
expensive service. But toners can also be an inexpensive way of
introducing colour as a new service to clients.”
Redken supports its salons with regular service menu campaigns,
each one working hard to deliver beautiful hair that’s perfect for
Instagram, driving clients both new and established to try colour and
using beauty vocabulary to chime in with conversations that clients
are hearing elsewhere. With its Toning Tweakments menu, complete
with before and after images, guests are offered four distinct services
using its Shades EQ portfolio to deliver a real impact on their hair
colour, and in as little as 20 minutes. This means it’s a quick backwash
service that can boost the bottom line while illustrating to the client
what a big impact toners can have on banishing brass and dullness.
“Clients love this!” says Jo Pilbeam from Blend about the
Tweakments menu. “They can see exactly how to maintain their
beautiful salon colour and keep the shine without damaging the hair.
We got a lot of interaction from clients asking what we used to make
the colours we share on our Instagram feed and asking questions
about Shades EQ. I think of it as a lip gloss for the hair.”
Offering salons an enticing menu of quick colour options at an
affordable price was a driver behind the No Strings Attached Colour
menu from Wella Professionals too, and its new blonde glazing
menu, curated by its UK colour trend expert, Zoë Irwin, aims to leave
no blonde untoned.
“Toning and glossing services are an amazing introduction
for colour-averse clients,” says Robert Eaton. “There has been
PAINT | 31
Ting
massive growth area in this area. The Wella
Professionals No Strings Attached Colour
menu is perfect for those who want to
experiment, as well as colour-shy clients
you’ve been trying to win over.”
BESPOKE YOUR BLONDES
Larry King’s Harriet Muldoon, one of the
salon brand’s Queens of Colour, sets a very
common salon scene. “If you’re a colourist
you’ll hear the words: ‘I want to go blonde’
many times a day, but ‘blonde’ has so many
meanings,” she says. “It’s all about the tone.
I like to use my social media as a portfolio
to show all of my favourite shades – butter,
vanilla, ash, pearl. Just like make-up, we all
love discussing tones, and Instagram is a
good tool to use during consultations. And
Redken Shades EQ is the ultimate toner range.”
As Trevor Sorbie’s Emma Beveridge
admits, with balayage in particular, clients are
coming into the salon less often, so offering
a toning service is a great way to see them
more regularly. “At the moment I especially
like using the Majirel Glow range from L’Oréal
Professionnel, as it has a great selection of
pastels and more vivid tones,” she adds.
THE NEW DRIVES THE HUE
All this interest in glossing and toning has
naturally driven innovation from the colour
houses to ensure that colourists have exactly
the tools they need to deliver what clients
want. Following last year’s launch of Majirel
Glow from L’Oréal Professionnel, the brand
has also unveiled INOA Glow, a palette of nine
shades that run from ashy to mocha that
preserve the hair’s natural transparency for
luminous results.
@harrietmuldoon
Affinage INFINITI Toners
32 | PAINT
Wella Professionals originally launched its much-loved Illumina
Color line a decade ago, and it’s now adding new shades to its
portfolio to help expand the tones colourists can offer. ASP has
overhauled its whole INFINITI collection, including its toners, to equip
salons with every possible high-performing hue. And for those who
do like to play with something more experimental, Elumen PLAY from
Goldwell has an eraser to clean up hair in a flash so that clients can
try something else tonal.
TONERS AREN’T JUST FOR BLONDES…
“A lot of our clients think toners are mainly for blonde hair,” says
Steve Rowbottom, “but we use them effectively on all hair colours.
Redheads and brunettes can really benefit from using them,
especially in-between colour appointments,” adding that toners are
a great solution for clients looking to return to a more natural hue.
Thomas Hills, artistic director and owner of TH1 Hair in Oxted
and a Revlon Professional colour educator, uses toning in a variety
of ways. “What we call ‘paint colour’ is a trend I see being big this
season,” Thomas says. “This isn’t necessarily for every day, but more
suited to special occasions or summer festivals. Think unexpected
bursts of arty colour and splashes of paint worn against otherwise
inconspicuous normcore shades, which are then styled into nondescript
or traditionally prim styles.”
Thomas believes transparency is key when it comes to building
your toner menu. “We’ve found that as trends and techniques evolve,
so does the time requirement for each appointment. We don’t want
clients to get a shock when paying so we make it obvious at the
start.” He advises being upfront with clients about your techniques
– how long it will take to achieve their dream look, and how that will
impact the end cost. With this in mind, TH1 Hair now has a wider
range of colour services on the menu. “Our previous colour service
issues – those black to blonde expectations for example – now sit
with our ‘creative toning’ section, along with babylights, additional
base colours and freehand painting. This means we can offer our
clients a more tailored response to their hair needs. It also allows
them to understand the colour process more.”
Westrow’s Steve
Rowbottom adds: “We offer
temporary tones via our
in-salon Colour Bar Backwash
experience. It allows our
colour mixologists to create
bespoke tones using Revlon
Professional Nutri Color
Crème [a three-in-one cocktail
of colour, care and shine],
which are mixed and applied
at the backwash. Clients can
then take the remainder of the
product home to use to keep
their colour fresh in-between
salon appointments.”
Steve is in the process
of building this service into
the cost of every colour
appointment at Westrow: “It
will allow us to offer clients a
complimentary visit to the salon
for a follow-up appointment, to
professionally analyse that the
tone is correct, offer maintenance advice or make any alterations if
required and leave the salon with a fresh blow-dry.”
With such a wide variety of services – not to mention toning
products – available to aid clients in their colour quest, it really pays
to ensure communication is open. “Discuss all the ways a toning
service can help your client,” adds Steve. “From the colour-shy to the
colour queens, a menu with options for every level is integral to your
salon becoming invaluable in your clients’ quest for colour nirvana.”
HOME IS WHERE THE TONE IS
Of course, all this toning work isn’t exclusive to the salon. Once
clients have invested in a toning service there’s a brilliant opportunity
to boost the salon’s retail while ensuring their tone lasts that bit
longer with after care recommendations. For
example, Redken’s Color Extend range not
only offers violet-hued Blondage for blondes,
but also Graydient to ensure yellow-free tones
for silver-haired clients and new Brownlights,
which is a blue-toned colour-depositing
shampoo and conditioner that keeps the
brass away from brunettes, too.
For those who like to be a bit more
playful, there’s also after care that can be
customised in salon using the colour that
you’ve applied to your clients. Both evo fab
pro and My.Haircare’s Infuse My.Colour can be
cocktailed by colourists, while both brands
also offer pre-mixed colour intensifying
shampoos and conditioners, too.
“It’s quite easy to add coloured shampoo to
retail because clients know they’re designed
to maintain their specific shade, whether it’s
Redken’s Brownlights, Blondage or Graydiant
shampoos,” says Claire Flack of Wigs &
Warpaint. “Once you’ve used the products,
you believe in them. You can buy whatever
from the high street, but this is prescriptive.”
TH1 Hair
PAINT | 33
#GLOSSITUP
@REDKEN
#GLOSSITUP
OWN THE TONE
FOR SILVER
& GRAY
#SHADESEQ
#SHADESEQ
#
#GLOSSITUP
OWN THE TONE
FOR BRUNETTES
#SHADESEQ
SSITUP
OWN THE TONE
FOR BLONDES
#SHADESEQ
OSSITUP
#SHADESEQ
All rights reserved. 2020
WELCOME TO A NEW TONE ZONE
OWN THE TONE WITH SHADES EQ & SPECIALIST TONING-CARE
Banish brass, dullness and warm tones with Redken’s iconic Shades EQ and
expert range of Color Extend, color-depositing, toning-care for blondes,
brunettes & gray clients. Own the tone for every shade and create the latest
toning techniques your clients are asking for with Redken’s pro-toning
products loved by millions of colorists worldwide.
Want to join the tone tribe? Find our more on redken.co.uk
@REDKEN #SHADESEQ #REDKENREADY
36 | PAINT
IN UNISON
CELEBRATING FASHION’S WAY OF BRINGING DIFFERENT CULTURES TOGETHER IS UNITY, CREATED BY THE ASP
COLOUR REBELS AND ASP AFFINAGE SALON PROFESSIONAL GLOBAL AMBASSADOR TRACEY DEVINE-SMITH. IT FUSES
SOPHISTICATED HAIR COLOURING TECHNIQUES TO ACCENTUATE STYLING AND THE IMAGE IN ITS ENTIRETY
PHOTOGRAPHY BY RICHARD MILES
PAINT | 37
38 | PAINT
PAINT | 39
40 | PAINT
HAIR The ASP Colour Rebels and ASP Affinage Salon Professional global ambassador Tracey Devine-Smith. STYLING Magdelena Jacobs.
MAKE-UP Lucy Flower and Egle Bakaite. PRODUCTS ASP Affinage Salon Professional.
PAINT | 41
SOCIAL
GATHERING
BUILDING YOUR ONLINE FOLLOWING TAKES A LOT MORE THAN JUST POSTING PICTURES OF YOUR WORK.
IT’S TIME TO MAXIMISE YOUR DIGITAL POTENTIAL. THANKS TO EXCITING INTERACTIVE FEATURES SUCH AS
LIVE STREAMS AND POLLS, AS WELL AS THE RISE OF NEW APPS LIKE TIKTOK, NOW IS THE PERFECT TIME TO
MAXIMISE YOUR CHANNELS AND ENGAGE WITH COLOURISTS (AND CLIENTS) ON A WHOLE NEW LEVEL
@heffyx
IGNORE THE POWER of social media at your peril. Sharing
your incredible colour work has become vital in order
to boost your online following and expand your
business. Juggling the ins and outs of algorithms and
how to translate likes into actual client relationships
is a constant learning curve… not to mention that
a static image often fails to translate the extent
of work required. Uploading examples of eyecatching
looks or dramatic transformations
will certainly see high engagement, but it can
also make managing client expectations
and knowledge of colour maintenance
that little bit harder to negotiate. Social
media has been proven to reach new
and existing clients in ways that were
previously impossible. Whether you’re
active on Instagram daily or prefer to post
sporadically across social media, we work
in an age where you simply can’t afford to
ignore it. “As businesses we need to be
using social media to our advantage,”
says 2019 NHBF Best Social Media
Award winner, Heffy Wheeler
of HX Hair. “Although it can
often feel like a ball and chain
– constantly having to think
about the content, factoring in
the time it takes to post and the
planning involved.”
42 | PAINT
@craigsworldofhair
PRESS PLAY
Social media is instantly reactive, giving colourists the opportunity to share their work
or news in real time. This is perfect for showcasing the latest trends, techniques and
tutorials, or updates and launches within the salon. More and more colourists are
turning to Instagram TV (IGTV) or YouTube to showcase their colour creations or hair
transformations to both professionals and consumers. “I’ve always had a policy to share
everything,” explains socially-savvy hairdresser Craig Purves. “Whether it’s educational
content for hair professionals or top tips for your clients, my biggest piece of advice is to
be authentic.”
Most people find a medium that chimes with what they’re trying to communicate. Craig
adds: “Put yourself out there in whatever way you feel comfortable with. Create content
that you feel proud to share and enjoy making, then others will feel the same about it.”
In the age of algorithms, advertising and everything in between, it can be hard to
gauge genuine engagement across channels, but for Craig it is often his video content
on Instagram which performs well. He shared that his mini tutorials and longer IGTV
‘process’ videos receive the most views. “I’ve always known education is an integral part
of our industry, but the ability to react swiftly via my channels by sharing knowledge is so
fantastic,” he concludes.
@thecolourbarwirral
We’re always looking to change
and improve our social media
channels. There’s no right or
wrong, it’s just trying different
things to see what works. At the
moment we find asking questions
or creating a poll encourages
followers to interact and engage
more with our work
BECKY SMITH
THE COLOUR BAR, WIRRAL
PAINT | 43
Digi Educa
QUESTION EVERYTHING
Samantha Cusick London has recently launched a weekly series on Instagram Stories to
give followers the opportunity to send in questions for the team to answer. “Social media
now plays such an instrumental role in our industry and it can be utilised in so many ways
to help build your business. When it comes to using my own channels, I approach it in the
way that I like to use Instagram myself, as a consumer,” says founder Samantha. “I like to
follow companies and influencers that give honest and credible advice, so that is exactly
what I aim to offer.”
Discussing product recommendations or retail up-selling during appointments doesn’t
come naturally to everyone, but hosting these regular question and answer sessions
online helps to break down that barrier when it comes to aftercare. “It’s about making
genuine product recommendations to them that I know work, rather than just appearing
to endorse them at the end of an appointment for a quick financial gain. Imagine how
refreshing it would be if your clients already knew they needed sulphate-free shampoos,”
she adds.
Using the voting or poll features on Instagram also works as an effective way to boost
engagement by requesting responses from followers. It gives vital insight for creating
future content or can build excitement, such as sharing ‘sneak peeks’ of transformations.
Wella Professionals Passionista Thomas Frear has experimented with the wide variety
of tools that are available to see what prompts engagement with his followers. “I try and
utilise every tool on Instagram – the more interactive something is, the more I find people
react and follow what you’re doing,” he explains.
@be.ironbridge
@heffy
@samanthacusicklondon
STAY ONE STEP AHEAD
While the established social apps are going nowhere, when it comes to building an online
identity it’s important to stay aware of new launches which will take your networking and
brand building one step further.
With more than 60,000 followers on TikTok and more than 900,000 likes across her
posts, OSMO ambassador Heffy has been using the trending app to share her colour
creations and transformations. “TikTok is a huge video platform that has slipped under the
radar of our industry for some reason, despite having over one billion users worldwide.
The short video app is ideal for creatives to express themselves and their work.” The best
part about it? It’s so much fun to use! “With users all over the world, it’s gives hairdressers
freedom to create and play without just creating content to appeal to clients for column
bookings. It puts some of the fun back into social media,” Heffy adds.
When I post on Instagram I often
give insights into what formulas I
have used, which is so important.
I love to see what other colour
ranges can do too on other
people’s threads. It’s always about
learning; what I share encourages
clients to ask questions, such as
what methods have been used
to achieve the look
BROOKE EVANS
BE IRONBRIDGE
44 | PAINT
@tombadgerhair
Videos are one of the best ways
to educate clients online because
they’re more engaging than
detailed paragraphs telling you
the process. I love posting formula
breakdowns to Stories or IGTV. Still
photos are great, and are needed
when it comes to educating, but I
think the post needs to be short
and sweet if you want people to
take the information in
THOMAS BADGER
WELLA PROFESSIONALS PASSIONISTA
ALWAYS ENGAGE
“Engage, engage, ENGAGE,” urges Wella Professionals Passionista Thomas Badger.
“Get your followers talking – ask them questions and get them to ask you questions.
Ask for client selfies, tag them in your posts, ask them to tag you. Sharing is caring
and it’s the way forward for social.” Instagram’s algorithms are notoriously finicky,
but for real numbers you need to remember that this mythical engagement is a twoway
street. Rather than just sitting and waiting for people to discover you,
Thomas recommends reaching out to bridge the gap – liking, commenting on
and reacting to other people’s content. “The more your online presence
is engaged, the more people will start to come across your online account.
It will rapidly grow your following and client base,” Thomas adds.
Likewise, if you want to build your engagement with clients online then
you have to build a rapport. “People want to feel part of a community, so I
always aim to respond to every message or comment. Nobody wants to be
left hanging, and by replying it shows that you care about the client and are
passionate about the industry,” explains Samantha Marais of the Schwarzkopf
Professional Collective.
Using Instagram for business purposes requires a different approach to
that of your personal account. It’s a free platform that can bring so many
eyes to your salon and skills, but if you fail to engage with it properly then
you’re just another square to be scrolled past. Luckily there are numerous
educational courses available, from brands and experts alike, all geared
towards how to fully utilise Instagram as a platform to get you seen. The likes
of Wella Professionals’ Activate Your Digital Business and Redken’s Strictly
Social courses, or more general digital business skill providers such as
Hubspot Academy, can provide you with all the building blocks you need. If
you’re completely perplexed by the digital scene then these courses can give you
the grounding you need to create an structure to your online work, understand the
algorithmic intricacies, and make sure all eyes are on you. Happy snapping!
@thomasfrearhair
PAINT | 45
Paintb
The latest launches and products to
boost the contents of your colour kit
Get serious lifting power and neutralisation
with new shades from Revlon Professional
Revlonissimo Colorsmetique, which can take
very dark shades lighter in just one step without
warm undertones.
revlonprofessional.co.uk
Blank Canvas from Pulp Riot removes semipermanent
and direct dyes without compromise;
it has a creamy consistency for drip-free
application for foil, isolated and freehand areas,
while the white formula allows you to check on the
colour lift while it processes.
salonsdirect.com
Shine a light on your
creativity with four metallic
shades of Elumen Play.
Mix and match to create
your perfect hue, or add
the two new Grey Elumen
formulas to add a cool
edge to any look.
goldwell.co.uk
Create soothing shades with the new Violets and
Blues from Paul Mitchell Professional Hair Color’s
popular The Demi, from cool blondes
to blue-blacks.
salon-success.co.uk
Cool blondes get an upgrade thanks to the
four new shades from Illumina Color by Wella
Professionals, and there’s a new blonde glazing
menu by UK colour trend expert, Zoë Irwin.
wella.co.uk
“New INOA Glow will allow
my clients to experiment
with tone and have the most
ultra-cool, luminous hair!”
Sarah Black, Linton & Mac
PAINTER and The It List
It Girl 2019
Luminous, reflective hair that looks naturally
perfected – it has to be the L’Oréal Professionnel
INOA Glow collection, a palette of nine shades for
incredible light reflection.
lorealprofessionnel.co.uk
From JOICO brand ambassador Larisa Love
comes the new Color Intensity Love Aura
collection – Hot Kiss, Mauve Amour, Passion Berry,
Peri-Wink or True Lav? Decisions, decisions...
joico.eu
46 | PAINT
Paint a rainbow everyday with the new
CHROMA ID semi-permanent line up from
Schwarzkopf Professional.
schwarzkopfpro.com
Want to reduce damage while creating bright
blondes? Try new Enlightener Freehand
Bond-Strengthening Lightener from Aveda.
aveda.co.uk
Neutralise and nurture
yellow and brassy tones
with Great Lengths Silver
Shine Shampoo, boasting
Keraphlex to improve and
protect hair structure and
help repair existing damage.
greatlengthshair.co.uk
New to
Schwarzkopf
Professional’s
colour brand tbh
– true beautiful
honest – come
five fresh shades
for its Natural
Beige and Natural
Chocolate
collections.
schwarzkopfpro.
com
After years in development, ASP Affinage Salon Professional
has launched the new and updated INFINITI colour range, with
139 shades, colour additives, toners and colour highlighting.
The line-up contains 92 per cent naturally derived ingredients
and includes new shades, b:BROWN.
asphair.com
Inspired by cool
earthy tones,
Smoked Cedar and
Driftwood shades
join the Shades EQ
Gloss Matte family.
redken.co.uk
Protect your Guy Tang #MyDentity colour
work with new #MyConfidant shampoo and
conditioner, which prolongs colour tone and
vibrancy for up to 50 washes.
salon-success.co.uk
A 100 per cent vegan hair colour, Color Wear by
ALFAPARF Milano offers 46 shades and its new
tube packaging will be produced using 100 per
cent post-industrial recycled aluminium, reducing
CO2 emissions by 20 per cent.
xperthair.ie
Cut down on colour waste by downloading Vish,
where you can add all the details of the colour
products you use, and use a Bluetooth scale to
always weigh out the right amount of colour.
getvish.com
Want something bright and bold for summer?
There are 10 intense direct dyes (and a clear)
in the line-up from staino by evo fab pro to
experiment with.
evohair.com
There are eight new Cool Inforced shades now
in the Majirel line-up from L’Oréal Professionnel
– there’s a new pack, a new cap, but the same
adored formula.
lorealprofessionnel.co.uk
PAINT | 47
Art schl
It’s playtime all the time with these education courses.
Remember an apple for teacher...
ASP Affinage Salon
Professional
Advanced Creative Colouring
This one-day workshop at the
ASP Academy with ASP global
ambassador Tracey Devine-
Smith is full of inspiration. Watch
Tracey’s advanced colouring skills
and incredible creativity in this
practical, hands-on session.
20 April, Romsey
01794 527 111, asphair.com
ALFAPARF Milano
Seamless Colour
This full-day course is designed
to create seamless blends and
colour combinations, with a
focus on high-fashion melts
with Revolution and Neon tones,
balayage with a twist and creative
shine bands. With Mel McNeill,
Xpert Professional’s Technician
of the Year 2019, and Ben Close
from Benjamin Close Hairdressing.
9 March, Bangor, Northern Ireland
academy@xperthair.ie,
xpertpro.ie
Aveda
Air Touch Atelier
This exclusive Vladimir Sarbashev
event will teach UK colourists
his famous Air Touch technique,
which uses air from a hair dryer,
rather than backcombing, when
balayage colouring to create a
seamless blend of colour that
grows out beautifully.
31 March, Aveda London
Academy
0370 428 6382,
bstace@aveda.co.uk
evo
Creative Placement 2.0 –
Fundamental Staino Techniques
This colour technique class will
take you on a journey to awaken
your inner genius from its slumber,
so you can slay commercial
techniques on the salon floor.
October 11, The Kings Canary,
London
education@evohair.com,
evohaireducation.eventbrite.com
Fudge Professional
Headpaint Colour Essentials
Hair structure, the colour wheel,
peroxide choice, delivering target
shades, formulating and colour
correction… find out all this and
more to boost your confidence in
the brand’s colour ranges.
29 April, Alan Howard Chester
01706 644803,
alanhoward.co.uk
Goldwell
Color Lab
For senior colourists, learn
to express your vision in
personalised colour and formula
concepts. This is about perfecting
your colour signature to create a
truly memorable statement.
4 April, London
020 3540 1200,
goldwell.co.uk/education
JOICO
JoiColor Specialist
Become a master in JoiColor
on this five-day programme,
designed to develop your
expertise and knowledge on
the brand’s system. Grow your
understanding of the science
behind hair structure and the
effects of colour on the hair, giving
you the ability to perfect each and
every colour for every client.
7-9 September and 5-6 October,
Laceys Studio, Reading
0118 930 2338, laceysltd.co.uk
L’Oréal Professionnel
Balayage Benefits
Siobhan Jones, founder of the
stunning Rose + Wild and colourist
to Little Mix, shares five new
balayage techniques to widen
your skill set and tips on creating
seamless blending. Book and your
Instagram will thank you for it...
31 March, London Academy
coursesuk@loreal.com,
lorealaccess.com/uk
milk_shake
Super Balayage
Andrew Smith delivers his
signature course to empower
colourists with knowledge and
confidence to take balayage skills
to the next level, leaving you to
create unique, bespoke blends.
6 April, Phoenix Hair & Beauty,
Cambridgeshire
01392 365 177,
milkshakehaircare.co.uk
Paul Mitchell
Perfect Canvas
Creating the perfect base for
muted metallics, brights and
pastels is essential. This
hands-on class will help guide you
through the fundamentals and
chemistry of Blonding with Paul
Mitchell Professional Hair Color.
6 July, Aylesbury
0845 659 0011,
salon-success.co.uk/education
Pulp Riot
Total Colour
This look and learn course
is a great introduction of the
’Grammable brand, covering the
full Pulp Riot portfolio, including
both vivids and permanent colour.
It will challenge your thought
process to give you a new
perspective on colour.
24 March, Alan Howard Leeds
0113 270 0010,
alanhoward.co.uk
Redken
Color Obsessed
Understand the principles behind
natural pigments, the colour
wheel, neutralisation and the
effects of colour on hair. This is a
confidence boost for colourists
looking to create perfect results.
5 May, Manchester
coursesuk@loreal.com,
lorealaccess.com/uk
Revlon Professional
Bespoke Colour
Discover how to maximise your
colour business with Thomas Hills.
Whether you’re a great colourist,
stylist or salon owner, this will
uncover the elements needed to
evolve your colour operation.
26 May, Westrow Academy Leeds
020 7391 7440,
revlonprofessional.com
48 | PAINT
Schwarzkopf
Professional
Master of Colour
This 11-day course is the highest
standard in the brand’s colour
education, immersing you in
the IGORA Royal system. From
philosophy and selection of
shades through to advanced
application and the latest creative
techniques, you’ll get coaching
and hands-on experience in all
aspects of colour education.
Begins 30 March, Manchester
01442 278 000,
askacademy.co.uk
TIGI
Freehand Painting
In this intermediate course,
colourists will gain a deeper
understanding of classic freehand
painting, its application and its
effects and learn how to tailor
balayage techniques to create
consumer-friendly results.
1 July, TIGI Academy London
020 7228 4815,
tigiprofessional.com/education
Wella Professionals
Colour Craft Correction
Banish those colour bands
and more! This two-day course
combines theory with hands-on
workshops to change the way you
look at colour correction forever.
Learn what questions to ask
and how to develop a long-term
journey for your client.
3-4 June, Manchester
0161 834 2645,
education.wella.com
Goldwell Couture Collection INTREPID
STARMAKERS
This is where you can make those dreams come true. Are you ready?
The Coterie
WHERE London/regional pop-ups
This fashion-focused networking club offers a
unique opportunity to mix with your peers and
hear from the biggest names in hairdressing,
fashion and beyond.
creativeheadmag.com/store
L’Oréal Colour Trophy
WHEN Regional Semi-Finals start 25 March.
Grand Final is 1 June
WHERE Nationwide. The Grand Final is at
Battersea Evolution
The longest running colour competition is
celebrating its 65th anniversary, so 2020 is
going to be big for the winners across the
categories – the prize includes a shoot in New
York City! Look out too for the new L’Oréal Colour
Trophy College Award.
lorealcolourtrophy.com
Redken Symposium On Tour
WHEN 17 to 19 May
WHERE Milan
Redken takes a vacation from its Las Vegas
home for Symposium and jets to Italy, where
classes include Color your World, featuring
techniques and inspiration from the streets of
NYC to the Quadrilatero della moda in Milan.
uk.lorealaccess.com
Wella TrendVision Award
WHEN: Regional Heats early June; UK &
Ireland Final 28 September
WHERE Nationwide; UK & Ireland Final is at
The Roundhouse, London
Hold onto your hats, the Wella TrendVision Award
is boasting a serious makeover! New categories
include Colour Specialist and Craft Artist, and all
entries need to be uploaded to Instagram. And
there are more places to grab at the Regional
Heats – what’s stopping you? Photographic
entries must be tagged with @WellaHairUK
by 9 April, with results revealed on 27 April.
wella.co.uk/trendvision
Goldwell Global Creative Awards
WHEN UK final is July, Global final
11 to 12 October
WHERE UK final is in London, Global final
will be Amsterdam
Replacing the Color Zoom competition, these
new awards have fresh Editorial Categories, new
Technical Categories and no trend directions to
follow, so your colour creativity can go ballistic.
Global Gold winners will receive a coveted
International Gold Trophy, worldwide press
and editorial coverage, a cash prize of about
£2,000 for the Editorial Categories, and
participation in a future Goldwell photo shoot for
the Technical Categories. Deadline for entries
is 31 May, and the UK winners will be revealed
in true Goldwell style in July. They go on to
compete globally in Amsterdam in October at
the Kao Salon Global Experience.
globalcreativeawards.com
Most Wanted and The
It List Awards
WHEN 7 September
WHERE London
The very best of British and Irish hairdressing will
be competing for the hottest trophies in town.
Keep an eye on the Most Wanted Colour Expert
category – who will wear the colour crown next?
creativeheadmag.com/mostwanted
2020
2020
Get your Most Wanted
Colour Expert Award
entry in by 13 May
Wella TrendVision Award 2019 UK & Ireland Award
PAINT | 49
OPINION
IS BALAYAGE
BREAKING
YOUR
BUSINESS?
IT’S THE FREEHAND COLOUR SERVICE THAT CLIENTS
(AND THEIR INSTAGRAM ACCOUNTS) ADORE, BUT
EDWARD HEMMINGS, CREATIVE DIRECTOR AT
EDUCATION PROVIDER ALAN D, IS ADAMANT BALAYAGE
IS BAD FOR A SALON’S LONG-TERM BUSINESS
Edward Hemmings
Training at Alan D
Is balayage ruining business? In my opinion, and that of many of
the employers we train for, it is. The technique began in France
in the ’90s but the colour was brought close to the roots. The
Californian honey blonde with sun-blasted roots look is now the
fashion, and has become softer and more natural as hair itself has
been left longer.
There are various techniques and methods, but all of them
actively increase time between visits to the salon by creating soft
blending points between root and lengths as opposed to root
colouring and highlights, which need more regular maintenance.
Yes, in certain circumstances, roots need to be filled, but with
those gentle blends your clients can wait an extra week or two (or
even a month) or, even worse, grab a box off the shelf to brighten
it up. Am I saying this alone is ruining our businesses? No, but
together with the trend for long, one-length hair, we are not seeing
our clients as regularly as we should. Until we start cutting hair
shorter again and giving clients an excuse to return every six
weeks or less, how do we expect to grow our businesses?
Supermarkets offer every type of product, electrical item and
wet line, many with the same labels as can be seen in our salons.
They offer clients the tools to make to make our work look amazing
for longer – but what they cannot offer is a haircut.
To make the change, I believe we need to start by looking at
ourselves. Do we project the right image? It will only take a couple
of team members to have that shorter bob and, with the power of
social media, all of your clients will get to see it. I recently had the
good fortune to judge the Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa junior
competition and it was refreshing to see shorter haircuts and more
graphic colours, still with a commercial and feminine feel. That
change has started internally.
Keep doing balayage because let’s face it, it looks so beautiful.
But to make money we need our clients in our chair every six
weeks! Short grad bob with ombre anyone?
Have you got an opinion to share? Let us know @creativeheadmag and we’ll start a conversation
50 | PAINT
EDINBURGH
MONDAY 16 MARCH, 7-10PM, DOVECOT STUDIOS
#SydSquad
Syd Hayes
INDEPENDENTLY AWESOME BUT TOGETHER THEY ARE A SUPER SQUAD OF SESSION STYLING GENIUSES
Pamela McCallum
Paula McCash
AND
MODEL TEAM
CALVIN KLEIN, CÉLINE, RALPH LAUREN,
COOL COLLABORATIONS ARE DAILY
OCCURRENCES AT SCOTLAND’S LONGEST
ESTABLISHED FASHION MODEL AGENCY…
Sam Burnett
Connor Reilly
TICKETS £25 FIVE FOR £100 CLUB MEMBERS PAY £15
BOOK NOW AT CREATIVEHEADMAG.COMSTORE OR CALL 01434 610 416
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