Creative HEAD March 2020

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PAUL MITCHELL IS ANYTHING but a faceless brand. It is an ever-expanding collection of

artists, innovators and educators spreading a message of inclusivity, philanthropy and

a long-standing commitment to the professional hairdresser. It remains a family-owned

company, where the everyday and the extraordinary are in perpetual motion, and where an

exceptional combination of conscience, creativity and quality continues to rock our world.



Planet us

AS CREATIVE HEAD CELEBRATES 20 years in print, Paul Mitchell is marking its own

momentous occasion: four decades devoted to developing exceptional products,

supporting incredible people and protecting our precious planet. So we couldn’t resist

the opportunity to join forces and big up all that matters to the birthday brand – and

everything that makes it unique.

Join us as we explore the six wonders of the Paul Mitchell world…

PHOTOGRAPHY BEKKY CALVER


CREATIVE HEAD PARTNERSHIP

“Producing the highest quality professional hair care available

is simply not enough. Paul Mitchell is (and always will be)

dedicated to making our world a more beautiful place”

JOHN PAUL DEJORIA, CO-FOUNDER


1980 Paul Mitchell and John Paul DeJoria create

the first Paul Mitchell products. The Conditioner is the first

professional leave-in conditioner on the market

Vidal Sassoon enlisted

Paul Mitchell to train his

staff in his first

US salon

The Artist

JOHN PAUL MITCHELL SYSTEMS has

always been committed to pushing the

envelope when it comes to hair artistry.

From the inception of The Shag and the

idea of hair sculpting (both born out of

the creativity of Paul Mitchell himself)

to today’s award-winning brand artists,

including 2020 NAHA (North American

Hairstyling Awards) winner, Lucie Doughty

for Editorial/Session Stylist of the Year and

Daytime Emmy Award winner Noogie Thai,

John Paul Mitchell Systems is a brand that

fully supports the artistic individuality of

each and every hairdresser around the

globe. It provides the tools and products

to allow every stylist to become an artist.


CREATIVE HEAD PARTNERSHIP

“The Artist inspired the team

to create something really

sculptural. The look is strong

and distinctive, yet playful

and not too rigid”

JONATHAN SOONS,

CREATIVE AMBASSADOR, HEADMASTERS


“I’ve been dying to create

this style, based on the

Hitchcock look from

Alexander McQueen

A/W05. It's vintage but

sexy and fashion-forward

at the same time”

JONATHAN SOONS

John Paul Mitchell

Systems only makes

professional-level

products

The Professional

FROM ITS INCEPTION John Paul

Mitchell Systems has always

supported the professional. So much

so, that in 2007 co-founder and

chairman of the board, John Paul

DeJoria, added his majority stake

of the business into his family trust,

ensuring that the brand remains

only within the professional beauty

industry for 360 years.

1980 The first Paul Mitchell products hit the US market. The packaging was

black and white because colour was too costly to print


1987 Paul Mitchell products arrive in the UK

“This character is all about

education, so I thought it

could be a university or college

student who is dressing as the

woman she wants to be. She’s

forward-thinking, maybe a bit of

an activist. When you reference

an era you don’t want to make

it exact, so we used elements

to get that feel of an old, ’70s

Britain but that still feels fresh”

CREATIVE HEAD PARTNERSHIP

JONATHAN SOONS

The Messenger

WHEN IT COMES to the business of hairdressing, John Paul Mitchell

Systems has you covered. Multi award-winning global artistic director

Robert Cromeans originally created the Color Bar concept that has

since been replicated by brands and salons across the globe, to bring

the theatre of professional hair colour to life. With business systems

and in-salon concepts for every area of the salon, this is a company

that will help you keep score to do more.


The Guardian

NO ANIMAL TESTING. Never

have, never will. Globally. Not

all brands have the same

ironclad assurance as John

Paul Mitchell Systems, but it’s

a deeply ingrained philosophy

for the brand – almost all of

its products across colour

and styling being 100 per

cent vegan.

“This is classic catwalk

hair, a big blow-out to

complement the bunny

ears. The key to this look

is a great set”

JONATHAN SOONS

1990 Paul Mitchell receives a Humanitarian Award from

PETA (People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals)


“This is a nod to idealism,

romance, youthfulness – but it

has a quirkiness. Rather than

having a sharp parting and

topknot, you have this faceframing

softness. It’s a classic

shape with a slight oddness”

JONATHAN SOONS

CREATIVE HEAD PARTNERSHIP

In 2017, Variety named

John Paul DeJoria its

Philanthropist of

the Year

The Philanthropist

IT’S COOL TO BE KIND. A culture of giving is a

cornerstone of the John Paul Mitchell Systems

way of life. Co-founder John Paul DeJoria is a UN

Goodwill Ambassador as well as sitting on the

board and getting hands on with charities including

Mineseeker, Grow Appalachia and Sea Shepherd.

Everywhere that he, his daughter and vice-chair

Michaeline and co-owner Angus Mitchell go, the

message is the same. He does this on behalf of

hairdressers across the globe.


“I’ve got a mild obsession with

Pre-Raphaelite hair at the

moment, so I created a really

romantic, almost melancholic

look. At the same time, you have

to have an edge to it to keep

it modern – that's where the

products really help”

JONATHAN SOONS

2005 Paul Mitchell begins working with American Forests Global ReLeaf campaign,

assisting in the planting of trees in Europe and the US


1998 John Paul DeJoria and his daughter

Alexis travel with the Conservation Society

to protest against the Canadian Seal Hunt

CREATIVE HEAD PARTNERSHIP

The Conservationist

AS A BRAND WITH hippy roots, John Paul Mitchell Systems cares

deeply about protecting and preserving the world around us. From the

sustainable solar-powered Awapuhi Farm on the Big Island in Hawaii,

to ensuring that all photo shoots are carbon-offset, John Paul Mitchell

Systems works with numerous global charities including Sea Shepherd

and Waterkeeper Alliance that maintain everything from our waterways

to our wildlife.

Reforest’Action and Tea Tree

joined forces to plant 750,000

trees by the end of last year.

The next target? One million

trees by the end of 2022!


2014-15 Paul Mitchell is judged one of the UK’s coolest

brands by CoolBrands, for its consumer trust and iconic ethical status

Forty years of people,

product and planet

THESE SIX PILLARS have kept Paul Mitchell rock-solid in its

conviction and motivation, giving artists across the globe the support

they need to push boundaries and fulfil their creative ambitions.

PHOTOGRAPHY Bekky Calver. HAIR Jonathan Soons for Headmasters, assisted by Pervin Cirakoglu,

James Davies and Luke Dawson-Browne. MAKE-UP Stefan Jemeel. FASHION Issey Gibbons


Did

you know...

40 years

In 2020 John Paul Mitchell

Systems celebrates 40 years

in business, including nine

brands stocked in over

80 countries

The gift

that keeps

on giving

HERE’S TO A FRESH DECADE of caring for people, products and planet. It’s been 40 years of pushing

boundaries and challenging the status quo. We can’t wait to see what John Paul Mitchell Systems has

in store for the next 40. And to celebrate, the original product launches are getting a vintage makeover…


Still th

To celebrate the 40th anniversary of John Paul Mitchell Systems, you can snap up these four limited edition versions of

PAUL MITCHELL SHAMPOO ONE

The original wash. Shampoo One is effective enough to only be

used once, gently cleansing to improve manageability and shine

with panthenol and wheat-derived conditioners.

100 per cent vegan.

PAUL MITCHELL SHAMPOO TWO

Dive in deeper with Shampoo Two to remove dulling build-up for

a seriously clean and soft finish. Extracts of camomile, rosemary,

aloe vera and jojoba work to add body, fullness and shine.

100 per cent vegan.


e one

CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL

aul Mitchell's original best-sellers. With their sleek, retro designs, these products are bound to be a sell-out success

PAUL MITCHELL THE CONDITIONER

Fast-acting and no need to rinse – The Conditioner leaves hair

feeling instantly more nourished, with improved texture and

protection from daily styling thanks to awapuhi extract.

100 per cent vegan.

PAUL MITCHELL 413 SCULPTING BRUSH

This go-to hairbrush is a true all-rounder. Detangle, blow-dry and

finish all with the same brush. Whether you’re creating sleeker updos,

polished bob styles or barely-there styling, the 413 does it all.


Join us

INVEST IN THE PLANET, IN PRODUCTS THAT SUPPORT YOU, AND IN PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT WITH JOHN PAUL

MITCHELL SYSTEMS BRANDS. FOR MORE INFORMATION CONTACT EXCLUSIVE UK DISTRIBUTOR SALON SUCCESS ON

0845 6590011 OR VISIT SALONSUCCESS.CO.UK


CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM

MAGAZINE EDUCATION EVENTS INSPIRATION CREATIVE HEAD STORE COMPETITIONS

EXCLUSIVE

Illustration by @betty_blades

Welcome to our new trio of guest PAINTERS from Pulp Riot’s #riotsquad.

First in the spotlight is Lexie Shay Rabbett from HIVE Hair Salon, Leeds

2020

2020

Most Wanted and The It List Awards

2020 are now OPEN for entries. We’ve

had a category refresh, so check out the

website now for the full lowdown

This is your final chance to snap up

Salon Smart 2020 tickets! Head to

the Creative HEAD store now or risk

missing out

The Coterie’s returning to Edinburgh

on 16 March, and we’re in first-class

company! Be part of the action as we

hang with the #sydsquad

creativeheadmag.com

creativeheadmagofficial

@creativeheadmag


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Editor’s letter

22

48

68

WHILE CREATIVE HEAD celebrates its 20th birthday, it’s a

special birthday year for the Most Wanted Awards too. Two decades

after that first lunchtime bash at London’s Sugar Reef, things have

altered just a smidge. Now we also have The It List to recognise emerging

talent, and across both competitions there are an incredible 20 awards handed

out in front of some 700-odd guests at a stellar landmark venue (Natural History

Museum! Tate Modern!). It’s all just a little bit extra… and that’s because we believe

wholeheartedly that you, your work and your businesses are a little bit extra, too!

Both competitions celebrate the versatility of this fabulous industry – the salon

team, the individual, the session world, the business brain – because we have always

felt it vital to showcase the breadth of opportunities and success hairdressing

brings. So, this year, we’re cranking up the dial to 11 to ensure the 20th Most

Wanted Awards are the best yet, and that The It List spotlights the brightest of

the next generation. Turn to page 48 and consider what one of

those awards could do for your career, your team’s energy,

your salon’s business. Your name? Well, it might just be

etched on one of those trophies come 7 September…

CREATIVE HEAD

Since 2000

Amanda Nottage

Editor

JOIN US!

Happy MWIT launch month!

Creative HEAD’s Most

Wanted and The It List

Awards are back and

open for entries, with new

and refreshed categories

and a 20th birthday to

celebrate. Will you see

your name in lights in

2020? See page 48. The

Coterie’s off to Edinburgh

on 16 March, with a cast

of creatives in tow. Turn to

page 54 for details. Finally,

salon owners and managers

across the UK, this is your fi nal

call for tickets to Salon Smart

(London, 29 to 30 March). The

agenda’s packed, the line-up’s

pumped – are you ready to take

your business to the next level?

creativeheadmag.com/events

amanda@alfol.co.uk creativeheadmag.com creativeheadmagofficial

@creativeheadmag



March

CREATIVE HEAD

Since 2000

WHAT’S INSIDE

70

FASHION

Big is beautiful

with Glitterbox

by Hare & Bone

68

INDEPENDENT STYLIST

Paula McCash on how her Most Wanted

win boosted her career

ON THE COVER

Hair by Jonathan Soons

for Headmasters for John

Paul Mitchell Systems.

Photography by

Bekky Calver.

80

SCENE

A six-strong panel

of experts at

The Coterie and

Fashion in Motion

at the V&A

FREE WITH

THIS ISSUE

PAINT S/S20

EDITOR

AMANDA NOTTAGE

DEPUTY EDITOR

DEBORAH MURTHA

STAFF WRITER

ANNA SAMSON

COMMERCIAL EDITOR

EVE WAGSTAFF

ART DIRECTOR

NICK JABBAL

CHIEF SUB EDITOR

ADAM WOOD

DIGITAL DESIGNER

EVA VESTMANN

ONLINE AND

DIGITAL ASSISTANT

KELSEY DRING

ONLINE AND

DIGITAL EDITOR

ALISON ROWLEY

CLASSIFIED EXECUTIVE

DAVID HAMMOND

SPECIAL PROJECTS MANAGER

JENNY BROOKS

SPECIAL PROJECTS DIRECTOR

JOANNA ANDERSEN

PUBLISHER

CATHERINE HANDCOCK

Creative HEAD is printed on

paper certifi ed as being from

sustainable sources using only

vegetable-based inks. Printed

by Buxton Press, Environmental

Printer of the Year and Printing

Company of the Year.

WRITE TO US AT:

Creative HEAD,

21 The Timberyard,

Drysdale Street,

London, N1 6ND

020 7324 7540

enquiries@alfol.co.uk

Creative HEAD is published

10 times a year by Alfol Ltd.

Creative HEAD is a registered

trademark. No part of this

magazine may be reproduced

without prior permission of the

publisher. All information correct

at time of going to press.

Printing by Buxton Press

creativeheadmag.com

creativeheadmagofficial

@creativeheadmag



The edit

THE NEWS AND KNOW-HOW FROM YOUR INDUSTRY

20 YEARS OF

MAGIC AT

MOST WANTED!

CREATIVE HEAD’S MOST WANTED Awards

will be celebrating its 20th birthday this year –

what a year to see your name in lights!

In a new move for 2020, the Best New Salon

category has been reborn to challenge UK

and Irish entrants to illustrate a commitment

to sustainability by demonstrating how eco

principles have been incorporated into a new

salon launch or a total revamp.

Meanwhile, The It List brings a brand-new

award to the trophy table – The Editorial

Stylist – directed at a young hairdresser

who turns heads on set for projects such as

magazine shoots, music videos, live events and

runway shows.

The Most Wanted and The It List Awards

are the only industry competitions to embrace

the salon, business and sessions worlds,

celebrating skills and achievements across 20

categories. Finalists will battle it out for titles

that will change the course of their careers.

You have until 13 May to get your entries

in, with finalists revealed at creativeheadmag.

com on 10 June. This year’s 700-strong Grand

Final will be held at a landmark London venue

on Monday 7 September, the biggest birthday

bash of the decade. More will be revealed –

sign up to receive updates at

creativeheadmag.com/newsletter.

Tracey Devine-Smith

Innovation and unity

celebrated at ASP

GUESTS FROM INDIA, the US and all over Europe converged on the UK to

celebrate at the ASP Luxury Haircare 2020 Distributor Conference.

The two-day event shared news and distributor updates, and was a chance

for ASP Affinage Salon Professional to showcase new product innovations,

including the new ASP INFINITI colour range.

ASP global ambassador, Tracey Devine-Smith, presented a show themed

around a living shade guide to demonstrate INFINITI’s colour palette, including

the new b:Brown range.

In addition, there was a presentation on a new loyalty programme and the

ASP Awards recognising its distributor network. A hair show by Tracey Devine-

Smith and the ASP Art Team – The Colour Rebels

also showcased its latest collection, Unity, an iconic

disco-meets-the-’90s collection.

Unity collection

See Unity exclusively

in PAINT S/S20,

free with this issue

2020

2020

FOR ALL

THE DETAILS,

turn to page 48

Creative HEAD and the

Most Wanted Awards are not

the only ones celebrating a

big birthday. Paul Mitchell’s

Shampoo One, Shampoo Two, The

Conditioner and 413 Sculpting Brush

have been wrapped in classic black and

white packaging to celebrate the brand’s

40th birthday.

salon-success.co.uk

14


NEW CULT TEAM REVEALED

SEBASTIAN PROFESSIONAL

HAS revealed its new Cult

Team, a group of six stylists

who will now enjoy an 18-month

mentoring programme covering

topics such as photographic

skills, wig making and creative

hair skills. The team is, pictured

from left: Samantha March

(Twist Hair), Stephanie Gallagher

(Wonderland), Sam Millard

(Avant Garde), Gemma Noon

(The Vinery Hair Salon), Hannah

Grogan (Foundation) and Luigi

Altomonte (Fratelli Hair).

THE #LCT20

ROAD MAP

Follow the journey of some

of the UK’s most inspiring

colourists all the way to

the L’Oréal Colour Trophy

Grand Final, starting at

these Regional Semi-

Finals. All successful salons

through will be announced

on lorealcolourtrophy.com

from 3pm on 18 March.

Judging takes place

between 15 and 17 April for

the L’Oréal Colour Trophy

and the L’Oréal Mens Image

categories. Finalists will be

announced online at 12pm

on 21 April.

25 March Northern Irish

Regional Semi-Final, Belfast

29 March Scottish Regional

Semi-Final, Glasgow

30 March North East

Regional Semi-Final, Leeds

31 March North West

Regional Semi-Final, Liverpool

5 April Western Regional

Semi-Final, Cheltenham

6 April Eastern Regional

Semi-Final, Cambridge

7 April Southern Regional

Semi-Final, London

8 April London Regional

Semi-Final, London

1 June L’Oréal Colour Trophy

Grand Final, London

L’Oréal launches Bachelor’s

degree in hairdressing

L’Oréal is opening ‘Real Campus, by L’Oréal’ in Paris, the

first school to award a Bachelor’s degree in Hairdressing and

Entrepreneurship. The degree is part of a mission to make

hairdressing more appealing to talented young people, with

technical training covered alongside management, customer

care and digital skills. “We are excited to learn from this pilot

in Paris and look forward to exploring future opportunities

for the UK,” said Béatrice Dautzenberg, managing director

of L’Oréal Professional Products Division UK & Ireland.

CHARLOTTE MENSAH GOOD

HAIR TO GET MAJOR RELEASE

Charlotte Mensah has announced the

release of a book, entitled Good Hair: The

Essential Guide to Afro, Textured and Curly

Hair. Due to launch on 17 September and

published by Penguin Life, the release

will coincide with World Afro Day, London

Fashion Week and Black History Month.

Charlotte is also the founder of the Hair

Lounge in Notting Hill and the Charlotte

Mensah Manketti Oil range.

#CHedit

MY month

AHEAD

What March has

in store for...

JAMES ALFIE PARR

BROTHERHOOD

We’ve just opened

Brotherhood, the ‘brother

grooming’ salon of

Nashwhite located in The

Neighbourhood – a street

food market, coffee shop,

craft beer joint, record store

and event

space in

Leamington

Spa. I also

have exciting

editorial work

on the horizon.

TOM CHAPMAN

LIONS BARBER COLLECTIVE

I have been asked to speak at

Salon Smart and I was blown

away! I will be exploring a little

more about mental health and

mindfulness for salon owners

and hair professionals for

the event, and I cannot wait

to share what I have found

out from my

research and

conversations.

2019

MOVERS AND SHAKERS

Ashleigh Stewart of Ashleigh

Stewart Hair in Edinburgh,

Beth Wilkinson of Beth

Wilkinson Hair in Bedlington

and Francesca Barnes of

Haus of Hairess in Bristol are

the latest extensions experts

to join Remi Cachet’s Super

Stylist programme.

Headmasters is now the

official salon of The Little

Princess Trust, a charity

supplying real hair wigs free

of charge to children and

young people who have lost

their hair through cancer,

illness and treatment.

CREATIVE HEAD

15


#CHedit

Images courtesy ofBaByliss PRO, Dyson, ghd, Illamasqua,

L’Oréal Professionnel, TIGI and Wella Professionals

Mark Fast

Marques Almeida

Central Saint Martins MA Fashion showcase

2019

Anthony Turner at Erdem

Olivia Rubin

Fashion Week A/W20

David Koma

The #SydSquad was in full force at London Fashion Week, creating big hair

at Matty Bovan – and we mean BIG – with full fringes and shaggy texture

groomed to perfection using the BaByliss 9000 Cordless straightener, followed

by the BaByliss PRO 25mm tong for a hint of movement.

The Central Saint Martins MA Fashion showcase was a star-studded event,

celebrating the 20th anniversary of the extraordinary partnership of L’Oréal

Professionnel and the iconic college. It was all hands on deck backstage, with

Richard Phillipart’s L’Oréal Professionnel Porfolio Team prepping the hair

of a staggering 106 models. The base look was one of nomadic wanderers,

exaggerating the models’ natural texture.

Over at Bora Aksu, the muse was Swedish abstract artist and mystic, Hilma af

Klint. Daniel Martin for L’Oréal Professionnel got busy with the Steampod 3.0

to create Pre-Raphaelite hair, styling flat waves that felt super airy.

David Koma teamed up with Aveda’s Jon Reyman for a sleek-meets-street

look, with Pure Abundance Style Prep sprayed liberally throughout the hair

before being dried flat and tucked tightly behind the ears.

Eugene Souleiman for Wella Professionals crafted an ear-framing take

on a multi-textured ponytail at Preen by Thornton Bregazzi. With clothes

inspired by the ’70s classic Don’t Look Now (including the film’s signature red

mackintosh), the finished look was girly and romantic with an off-kilter twist.

Erdem found inspiration in Sir Cecil Beaton’s photography, where the

roaring ’20s were in full effect. 2019 Most Wanted Session Stylist, Anthony

Turner, used up to half a tube of L’Oréal Professionnel TECNI.ART Fix Max

gel on each model to create the signature finger waves of the era. The Dyson

Supersonic hair dryer Professional edition was used to set everything in place.

OG supermodel Jerry Hall was the inspiration for the playful ’80s look at

Olivia Rubin, where ghd UK brand ambassador Zoë Irwin created swoops of

cascading curls using the new ghd helios hairdryer for soft volume.

Meanwhile, Mark Fast returned to the swinging ’60s, uniting a rock and

roll edge with preppy finishes. Leading the TIGI International Creative Team

was Maria Kovacs, who used the models’ natural hair to create cool, natural

movement with a focus on texture.

Preen by Thornton Bregazzi

Bora Aksu

Eugene Souleiman

Matty Bovan

Erdem

16

CREATIVE HEAD


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01392 365177


After years in development,

ASP Affinage Salon

Professional has unveiled

its updated INFINITI colour

range. It boasts permanent hair

colours, colour additives, toners

and highlighting to deliver

unlimited possibilities with its

new GPS Technology.

IN-SALON SERVICE

01794 527111

asphair.com

New to the OSiS+ Long

Hair Texture range

comes blow-dry mist

Texture Blow and

the dry aerosol

sugar spray

Beach Texture.

Ready the

#iwokeuplikethis

hashtag…

RRP £13.55

EACH

0800 328 6920

schwarzkopfpro.com

Go pro with your blow with the power (and rainbow

of colours) of the Veloce and Rapida dryers from

Diva Professional.

RRP VELOCE £49.99; RAPIDA £59.99

020 3393 9072

divapro.co.uk

Irresistible services consumers will want

to snap up, selected by the Layered team

Could it be that spring is actually nearly with

us? If you have guests with hair that demands some

love after all that central heating, horrid weather

and heat styling, you’ll want to know about the

JOICO HydraSplash collection, which quenches

and nourishes without weighing hair down. And

then encourage them to forgo the hairdryer on

occasion and put their trust in the JOICO Zero

Heat air-dry cremes, which keep hair looking

polished without all that heat.

RRP FROM £14.50

0845 071 2326

joico.eu

Luminous, reflective hair

that looks naturally perfected

– it can only be the new ninestrong

INOA Glow collection

from L’Oréal Professionnel.

IN-SALON SERVICE

0800 030 4034

lorealprofessionnel.co.uk

Get smooth with K-Respect from

milk_shake, an in-salon keratin

treatment that eliminates frizz for

three to five months, alongside

the at-home smoothing shampoo,

conditioner and maintainer mist.

RRP FROM £11.24

01392 365 177

milkshakehaircare.co.uk

Blond Absolu from Kerastase was

the brand’s biggest ever launch,

and the goodness keeps on coming

with the La Vie En Blonde candle,

free with two Blond Absolu

purchases in March and April.

GIFT WITH PURCHASE

0845 600 0122

kerastase.co.uk

New for UK Great Lengths certified salons and stylists,

the vegan and cruelty-free Dolce line by Rossano

Ferretti has been specifically created to use with

Great Lengths extensions.

RRP FROM £10

0113 278 1292

greatlengthshair.co.uk

Playfully cool and effortless, this

texture trio from Invisiblewear –

Velvet Cream, Air Gel and

Cloud Whip – will deliver

beautifully undone, voluminous

and defined looks.

RRP £21.95 EACH

0845 659 0013

salon-success.co.uk

18

CREATIVE HEAD


#CHedit

STOCK

OPTIONS

OUR PICK OF THE LAUNCHES TO

STACK ON SHELVES, ADD TO MENUS

AND SHARE WITH YOUR STYLISTS

Skincare has long inspired haircare, so now think fillers

for your client’s less than luscious ends of their locks. New

Serie Expert Pro Longer from L’Oréal Professionnel is all

about delivering thicker, plumper ends using exclusive

patented technology. A perfect treatment for clients

terrified of anything more than a tiny trim, Serie Expert

Pro Longer is aimed at consumers with long hair that

gets thinner at the ends. It’s the brand’s first professional

range to offer such a thickening service on those precious

last centimetres, with Filler-A100 and amino acids doing

all the hard work to penetrate the fibre’s core to act from

the inside and thicken, while helping to protect from

damage. It all starts with an in-salon backwash service,

while the goodness continues at home with the aftercare

collection, including a shampoo, conditioner, masque,

leave-in cream and the real magic maker Ends Filler

Concentrate, which comes in a single dose to build

on the plumping brilliance of the in-salon treatment.

RRP FROM £12.90

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IT’S ALL ABOUT... OILS

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packed with crambe abyssinica

seed oil, seals split ends, boosts

shine and condition for a highgloss,

smooth finish.

RRP £31.50

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Make hair reflect light with

Two-Way Mirror from R+Co, a

lightweight, smoothing oil that

melts into hair leaving strands

polished and lustrous without

weighing them down.

RRP £28.50

01442 248 104

randco.com

CREATIVE HEAD

19


WHY DID YOU WANT TO BE A HAIRDRESSER?

Ever since I was young I loved

playing with dolls’ heads.

I was obsessed with

tonging, plaiting and

restyling hair –

so I always knew

I wanted to be a

hairdresser. I started

working weekends

at Headmasters and

assisting as much

as possible. I then

went on to do my

apprenticeship

with Headmasters

and have never

looked back.

BOBBIE MASON

AGE: 17

SALON: HEADMASTERS TEDDINGTON

WHAT HAVE BEEN YOUR HIGHLIGHTS SO FAR?

I’ve been lucky enough to win two awards with Headmasters:

the House of Innovation Award as an apprentice, and the

Headmasters Christine Sanders Future Star Award in

January. From being mentored by the Headmasters Creative

Ambassadors to being given the opportunity to shoot in

a professional studio with photographers and make-up

artists to bringing my creation to life, it was such a great

experience. Also meeting Headmasters creative director

Andrew Barton was a massive highlight!

WHERE DO YOU SEE YOURSELF IN 10 YEARS’ TIME?

I would either like to be a top stylist/manager for

Headmasters or I’d love to own my own salon.

WHAT WOULD BE YOUR DREAM GIG IN HAIRDRESSING?

A celebrity hairdresser to the stars, travelling

to concerts and festivals and celebrity

events around the world!

20


NEW

ZEROHEAT

HOT

STYLE.

ZERO

HEAT.

Henkel Nederland B.V. Grasbeemd 4 5705 DG Helmond The Netherlands Hair: Larisa Love Photo: Hama Sanders

NEW Joico Zero Heat is the no-heat,

no-hassle styler you need when you want

to air-dry—and still look polished.

Defines & enhances hair’s natural texture.

Keeps frizz in check.

#zeroheat www.joico.eu

BEFORE


#CHedit

Inside

story

FRY + DEAN HACKNEY

Housed in the former Grace & Thorn fl orist you’ll fi nd the fi rst salon venture

for former Percy & Reed creatives, Billy Fry and Ellenora Dean. Operating

across two fl oors, the design objective was to ensure both team and

clients feel utterly relaxed and comfortable. As is often the case there was

a tight budget to play with, but it was vital the salon had a high end fi nish.

Luckily friends and family helped out, as Billy’s mum knows a thing or two

about salons (that’ll be Strands Hairdressing’s Pauline Howe). Darker tones

on the walls and textured natural wood help bring a evoke the feel of an

enveloping sitting room, steering the vibe away from anything too clinical.

You’ll fi nd L’Oréal Professionnel, ghd and evo on the shelves and, when

adding fi nal touches, the duo both slotted in pieces that from their own

homes for an authentic personal touch. Lots of the soft furnishings are

from Seletti, a brand adored by the pair for its high end feel but tongue-incheek

aesthetic – in keeping with the Fry + Dean ethos.

HOT BUYS

LIVING LEGEND

Like the well-upholstered

seat in a first class

cabin, Takara Belmont’s

Legend salon chair is the

epitome of world-class

luxury. It’s motorised and

programmable, too.

£6,175

020 7515 0333

takarahairdressing.co.uk

now open

CUT & DRIP BROMLEY

Guests taking a seat in this barber shop will

find themselves surrounded by bespoke

marble and quartz fittings while enjoying a

luxurious service that won’t hurt their wallet.

22

CREATIVE HEAD


NEW

DREAM

BLOWOUT

DREAM

BLOWOUTS

DO COME TRUE

Henkel Nederland B.V. Grasbeemd 4 5705 DG Helmond The Netherlands Hair: Larisa Love Photo: Hama Sanders

Get the luxuriously soft, smooth,

long-lasting blowout of your dreams!

Up to 50% faster drying time.

Reduces breakage by over 75%.*

#dreamblowout www.joico.eu

*Against combing breakage on damaged hair vs. a non-conditioning shampoo


THE BUSINESS EDIT

HOW WILL RISING WAGES

AFFECT YOUR SALON?

FROM APRIL THE government will be

raising the National Minimum Wage (NMW)

for 21 to 24 year olds from £7.70 to £8.20, and

the National Living Wage (NLW) for over 25s

from £8.21 to £8.72. So how can you prepare?

“The upcoming rises in the NMW and

NLW will undoubtedly put further pressure

on salon finances,” says Hilary Hall, chief

executive of the NHBF. “Employers can be

fined £20,000 for each employee who is not

paid the correct amount and we urge salon

owners to ensure that wages are correct and

to take advice before making any deductions.

If you get something wrong you are liable,

not your accountant or payroll provider.”

Robert Eaton, creative director at Russell

Eaton in Yorkshire, believes the impact will

be strong when it comes to graduate and

newly qualified stylists. “In some cases we

may be forced to make decisions between

supporting and continuing to employ

and educating several team members at

this level,” he says. “Although a higher

minimum wage may sound appealing to

them, it could actually mean less positions

are available, resulting in fewer people

benefiting from a strong salon-based

foundation within the industry.”

However, according to Louise Howard-

Long, owner of Architect Hair in Leeds, this

wage increase is actually an opportunity.

“To elevate the perception of our profession,

we must pay better wages. We already find

it difficult to recruit so we must offer more

incentives.” she says. “If a salon is not in

a position where it can pay better wages

when required by government there are

only two reasons: one is greed on the part of

the owners, and the other is a poor business

plan. Also, I have found a raise in prices

increases client numbers – clients will pay

well for great hair and good service.”

KERRY MATHER

KJM SALONS

“If we want hairdressing

to be taken seriously as a

worthwhile, rewarding career

then we need to pay better

salaries in line with other

industries. My stylists are on a

healthy commission structure

and I regularly employ

apprentices that are over 20

and 21 and although I can pay

them apprentice rate for one

year, after that they go onto

NMW. We’ve had great success

with the ‘older’ apprentices –

they work harder, adapt to the

job and skillset quicker and

swiftly start contributing and

essentially paying their way.”

H …

MAKE HAPPY

INVESTMENTS

NEED A LITTLE KNOW-HOW TO

NAVIGATE AND GROW YOUR

BUSINESS? FREDDIE BANKS,

GENERAL MANAGER UK & IRELAND

FOR KÉRASTASE AND SHU UEMURA

ART OF HAIR, IS HERE TO SHARE

SOME INSIDER KNOWLEDGE…

WHEN MANAGING A team of people we are

constantly faced with the question: “What

happens if we invest in developing our people

and then they leave?” But why not flip it on

its head and think: “What happens if we

don’t invest in developing our people and

then they stay?”

Today, investing in your team’s

development is no longer an option, it’s a

must. And it’s not just about developing their

skills to be the best creative cutter or master of all

complex colour techniques; there is now a need

to prioritise wellbeing in the workplace. With that

in mind, what are you currently doing to invest in

your team’s wellbeing and positive mindset?

I have co-created with my colleagues a ‘Team

Values Charter’ that we want to abide by and be

known for. For my team, it’s People First – above

anything in regards to the business; we always

commit to putting the people’s wellbeing in the

team first, without exception. To help embed this

culture, we celebrate any example where the team

has worked with a People First mindset. You can’t

underestimate celebrating your team’s successes

beyond business goals – this is what connects

people the most. People who are happy at work

are the best asset, they deliver the best customer

service, will have more rebookings and are able

to think more creatively in their job. So, are you

making happy investments?

THREE TOP TIPS FOR HAPPY INVESTMENTS:

•Be aware of how happy your team is now. Take

a look – you can tell a lot through body language

versus their takings this week.

•Co-create a Team Values Charter. If everyone

takes part, it will be more readily adopted.

•Live and breathe this mentality and celebrate it.

WANT TO KNOW HOW YOU CAN BOOST YOUR BUSINESS WITH KéRASTASE? CALL 0800 085 4958 OR VISIT KERASTASE.CO.UK

24

CREATIVE HEAD


IT’S OFFICIAL: the National

Living Wage (NLW) for

over-25s is set to rise by

6.2 per cent to £8.72 per

hour in April this year,

and the government plans

to increase it to £10.50 by

2024. NHBF director Tina

Beaumont-Goddard warns

that salons can expect

more increases, adding:

“We’re also sending an early

warning that from April

2021, employees over the age

of 23 will be entitled to the

NLW, and by 2025 those over

21 will move to the NLW.”

NATIONAL MINIMUM WAGE

The National Minimum

Wage (NMW) rates will

also go up in April this year,

says Tina. “If you don’t

pay your staff the correct

rates, you may risk a fine

of up to £20,000 and public

naming and shaming by

the government.”

ON THE UP

THE NATIONAL LIVING WAGE AND NATIONAL MINIMUM WAGE ARE BOTH ON THE RISE

THIS YEAR. DON’T BE CAUGHT UNAWARES – GET HELP WITH THE NHBF

THE NEW NMW RATES

• A 6.5 per cent increase to

£8.20 for those aged 21 to 24.

• A 4.9 per cent increase to

£6.45 for those aged 18 to 20.

• A 4.6 per cent increase to

£4.55 for under-18s.

“These increases will put

further pressure on salon

finances, as wages are such

a high proportion of costs

for service industries,” says

Tina. An expert guide to the

NMW and NLW is available

free to NHBF members at

nhf.info/nmw-guide

APPRENTICESHIP RATES

“The apprenticeship rate

will rise from £3.90 to

£4.15,” adds Tina. “However,

don’t be caught out by the

apprenticeship pay rules. An

apprentice over the age of 19

who is in the second year of

their apprenticeship must

be paid the age-appropriate

NMW or NLW.”

Make sure you keep a

record of staff birthdays, and

prepare accordingly for staff

who will be moving from one

bracket to the next during

the year. NHBF members

can get an in-depth guide at

nhf.info/employing-people

YOUR RESPONSIBILITIES

“Don’t rely on an accountant

to alert you to wage rises

or underpayments,” warns

Tina. “If you get something

wrong, you will be liable –

not your payroll provider. So

make sure that everyone you

employ is correctly paid.”

COPING WITH THE COST

“It’s vital to create a cash

flow forecast to control your

finances,” adds Tina. “You

can also take steps to boost

income, such as increasing

retail sales and taking

advantage of free or low-cost

marketing techniques.”

NOT YET AN NHBF

MEMBER? FOR LESS

THAN 80P A DAY,

BENEFITS INCLUDE:

• Valuable discounts

on industry-specific

insurance

• Free health & safety

advice

• Free 24/7 legal and

commercial helplines

• Membership helpline

for everyday business

advice

• Free employment and

chair renting contracts

JOIN THE

NHBF BEFORE THE

END OF MARCH 2020

AND QUOTE CHM25 TO

GET £25 OFF YOUR

MEMBERSHIP FEE

To discover more about the NHBF and what it can offer

you call 01234 831965 or visit nhbf.co.uk

CREATIVE HEAD

25


#BusinessEdit

FRAMEWORK APPRENTICE

ROLES END IN ENGLAND

THE NHBF HAS welcomed the end of

Framework apprenticeships in England,

which will no longer be available after

31 July 2020.

“Unfortunately, they had led to double

standards when compared with the new

Standards (Trailblazer) apprenticeships,”

said Caroline Larissey, director of quality &

standards at the NHBF. “Some apprentices

were not ‘salon-ready’ at the end of their

Framework apprenticeship.”

The end-point assessment for Standards

apprenticeships provides a robust

standardised test (similar to an employer

skills test) that ensures the apprentice has

reached industry-standard competence.

“In addition, the Level 2 hair professional:

hairdressing/barbering Standards are set at

a higher standard than the old Framework

apprenticeship, equating to a Level 2.5,”

added Caroline. “A Level 3 advanced and

creative hair professional progression route

has also just become available.”

NHBF Community

Awards return

THE FANTASTIC WORK that salons and barber

shops do to support charities and their local

communities will be celebrated at the NHBF’s

Community Awards 2020.

Entries close on 6 March, and finalists will

be invited to a high-profile reception and

presentation event at the Houses of Parliament

on 6 May. NHBF president Ian Egerton, said:

“The Community Awards were launched last

year and proved a great success. We were

blown away by the entries we received. This is

another great opportunity for MPs to gain an

insight into the invaluable and unsung contribution

made by the hair and beauty sector.”

Find out more at nhbf.co.uk/community-awards

NHBF LAUNCHES COLOUR

CHECK CAMPAIGN

THE NHBF HAS launched a ‘Colour Check’ campaign that asks for salons

to carry out patch testing as and when required to protect clients and reduce

the risk of legal or insurance claims. Open to NHBF members, Colour Check

aims to:

• Raise industry standards by encouraging salons to put client safety first

• Give public and industry recognition to salons that carry out the tests

Salons that sign up to the campaign will receive a mystery shop to check

allergy alert tests are being carried out correctly, and that hair colourants

containing PPD are not used on under-16s. If successful, the salon will

receive a Colour Check salon window sticker and logo to use on their website

and other materials. They will also be featured in the ‘salon search’ area of

the NHBF website.

“It’s time to recognise the professionalism of salons up and down the

country who comply with allergy alert test requirements and to encourage

those who don’t to get on board,” said Ian Egerton, NHBF president.

“Colour Check status will also help clients choose a salon run by committed

professionals so they can be confident they’re in safe hands.”

Find out more at nhbf.co.uk/colour-check

Advanced Trailblazer

Apprenticeships begin

A LEVEL 3 ADVANCED and creative hair professional Trailblazer Apprenticeship is now

available, approved by the Institute for Apprenticeships and Technical Education with

maximum funding of £5,000. Caroline Larissey, director of quality and standards at the

NHBF and member of the Trailblazer Apprenticeship steering group, said: “It has been a

real challenge, but we now have a Level 3 qualification that is right for our industry.”

Wendy Cummings, chair of the Trailblazer Apprenticeship steering group for hair

professionals, added: “We now have a world class apprenticeship standard and endpoint

assessment plan that really raises the bar and allows an apprentice to demonstrate

their professional skills, knowledge flair and creativity. However, despite our best efforts

and a request for a review, the funding band may mean providers will struggle.”

For more, visit nhbf.co.uk/apprentices

26 CREATIVE HEAD



#BusinessEdit

LIFE

LESSONS

KEN’S CLINIC

GOT A BUSINESS HEADACHE?

LET KEN WEST, DIRECTOR OF BUSINESS

EXPERTS 3•6•5, OFFER A PERSONAL PRESCRIPTION

JULIE HENSMAN

HENSMANS

Have courage at all times.

It’s not what happens to you,

it’s how you deal with it. You

can always learn something

from every situation.

Trust your instinct. Follow

what your gut is telling you

and never take anything

for granted. When it comes

to staff, don’t hang onto

someone thinking you can

change them; it may just not

be the right time for them

to be on your team. It’s all

about timing.

The right team dynamics

are crucial. Surround

yourself with the best

people, trusting your instinct

will help guide you on this.

Train, guide, nurture and

direct for two years, coach

for two more years and then

after four years look for a

collaboration together. Our

motto ‘You – at the heart of

all we do’ applies to both our

clients and our staff.

Embrace change – it has

to happen in order to

grow. One size doesn’t fit all,

so knowing this, knowing

your team and allowing

things to change and grow

will benefit you all. If you are

flexible with your team, they

will be flexible back.

KEN’S DIAGNOSIS

THE IDEA OF HAVING a receptionist

merely to take bookings and meet and

greet clients is a luxury that many salons

struggle to justify financially. Many are parttime

workers and are rarely focused on their

real role.

Meeting, greeting and booking

appointments is merely part of the role, and

for this you need an outgoing person with

great people skills and empathy to establish

and meet the needs of clients whilst making

them feel special and important.

The real role of a receptionist Tracy, is to

grow their salon’s results. Reception is one of

the key result areas in a salon and has many

key performance indicators which can, and

should, have both minimum performance

standards and aspirational goals set for them.

Here are just a few of the areas that should

have these set: salon utilisation, individual

stylist utilisation, enquiry conversion,

new client percentage, rebook percentage,

upgrades, frequency of client visit, new

client retention percentage, over the counter

retail sales, lost client re-engagement, and

there are many more.

So how does one go about setting these

performance standards and goals?

The first thing to do is collate accurate

“I’m new to hair but I’ve

been working on front

of house for nearly six

months and I’d love to

know what I could be

doing to make it as perfect

as possible for our guests,

while supporting the team

and boosting the business”

TRACY AUGUSTUS

P. KAI HAIR, MARKET DEEPING,

LINCOLNSHIRE

numbers for the area you wish to focus on.

Let’s say salon utilisation. Presumably you

already know the utilisation percentage

that you need to reach breakeven and this

could be set as your minimum performance

standard. Now look at your current

utilisation, which is hopefully above your

breakeven, and create a new, aspirational

goal that you would like to achieve. Your goal

must be specific, measurable, achievable,

results focused and you must set a time

when you either want to achieve it by or will

reassess the situation.

This type of goal can then

become the responsibility of your

receptionist(s) and you could

consider offering some form of

incentive when the goal is achieved.

You can then set goals for other

areas mentioned above. I would

suggest focusing on growing

one or two areas at a time

but minimum performance

standards should always be

set for all areas.

A responsible, resultsdriven

reception team

can play a key role in

growing a salon’s results.

DO YOU HAVE A BUSINESS HEADACHE YOU’D LIKE KEN TO HELP WITH?

Email KenW@365Hair.com or tweet @creativeheadmag

28

CREATIVE HEAD


#BusinessEdit

MISSION CONTROL

PUTTING YOU IN THE DRIVING SEAT OF YOUR SALON

in association with Phorest Salon Software and the Creative HEAD Reader Panel

Reader Panel methodology: survey conducted in a poll of 50 salons employing four or more staff and spread geographically across the UK

ONCE EACH ISSUE of Creative

HEAD lands with our subscribers,

we speak to our Reader Panel to

ask them how their business is

going, in partnership with Phorest

Salon Software. We combine the

results from our Reader Panel with

research compiled by Phorest Salon

Software, using its client base of

salons from across the UK, to gauge

what’s going on in the industry

and discuss how to solve common

problems and issues. This month

we’re talking about the positives

and negatives of loyalty schemes.

PERCENTAGE OF TURNOVER

ATTRIBUTED TO RETAIL SALES

7.5%

AVERAGE CLIENT SPEND IN

JANUARY (EXC. VAT)

£67.88

HOW DO YOU

COMPARE?

How was business in January

compared with December?

How was business in January

compared with January last year?

THE MISSION: KEEP CLIENTS LOYAL

70%

of salons

have a loyalty

scheme

Reasons

for having a

scheme: incentive

for clients to return,

encourages them

to try new products,

rewards them for

spending

“We have a point-based scheme where £1 equals one point. It helps us

to cross-promote products and services to clients”

CHRIS SIMMONS, SALON 54

SAME

30%

DOWN

20%

DOWN

90%

UP

10%

UP

50%

Reasons

for not having a

scheme: difficulty

to manage, not

valuable enough

and choosing other

ways to reward

clients

DID YOU KNOW…

A CUSTOMER USING YOUR LOYALTY

SYSTEM WILL SPEND MORE, NOT LESS

LOYALTY-BUILDING: it’s one of the top three

priorities for salon businesses (right up there

with getting new customers and getting great

staff). When you know your clients are loving

their experience with you, it means they are

coming back more often, spending more and

generating referrals.

Let’s look at the average bill for a second.

We broke down the average spend of clients

going to 5,000 salons in the UK. You could

be forgiven for thinking that gifting clients

treatments or products would ultimately be

a loss for the books, even if it was a win for

client retention. But we found those who

were engaged in the Phorest Treatcard loyalty

programme were not spending less visit-onvisit,

they were spending on average 28 per

cent more. Imagine the potential revenue boost

you could get if you got more clients engaged

with your loyalty system!

But always be sure to add value rather than

a discount. If your client is already paying for

a premium service each time they come, why

would you offer them a discount or free version

of that service? Instead, use the opportunity to

introduce them to an add-on that they would

potentially spend on in the future. Second,

promote your loyalty programme by making it

as visible as possible. Have it on your website,

give your clients keyring cards and encourage

them to download your salon app.

According to Frank di Lusso of Frank di Lusso

Hair, the Treatcard programme with Phorest

is a pure revenue driver for his business: “Our

clients love the Treatcard, simple as that. They

like getting rewards rather than discounts. And

Treatcards have generated more than £35,000

in revenue since we started using them.”

In short, loyalty programmes are a nobrainer,

as long as you pick the right one.

Shauna O’Halloran is content &

marketing manager at Phorest

Salon Software. Find out more

at phorest.com and

@phorestsalonsoftware

CREATIVE HEAD

29


COLOUR VISION

WE’RE DREAMING OF GOLDEN TONES AND FRESH SHADES FOR SPRING WITH THESE

LATEST LOOKS FROM WELLA PROFESSIONALS

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

GOLDEN DAZE

It’s the final, finishing touches that make all the difference when it comes to colour. “I won’t let my clients with lightened hair leave the salon without

a toning or glazing service,” says Zoë Irwin. As a two-time winner of the Most Wanted Creative Talent Award, we’re inclined to trust her opinions when

it comes to next-level finishes. These glazes are a diluted wash of colour that pick up areas of pre-lightened hair and bring them to life. “I’ve lost

count of the number of times a client has asked me to leave their pre-lightened hair ‘raw’ because it has that freshly lightened look they want,”

she says, “but when I add a bespoke glaze they are amazed at the difference to their colour, at how much more beautiful and premium it looks.”

Inspired by blonde icons Brigitte Bardot and Monica Vitti, and a love of the dreamy

haze of ’70s photography, Zoë has created a new blonde glazing menu for Wella

Professionals using Illumina Color. Her role as UK colour trend expert is one that allows

her to constantly innovate, experimenting with the latest products and tracking interest

in numerous other colour fi elds to predict what’s next in hair. “Illumina Color is my absolute

favourite product for glazing to create natural, sheer and luminous hair colour with a

soft, diffused look,” she adds.

30 CREATIVE HEAD


It makes hair look

really expensive,

chic and classy”

ZOË IRWIN,

WELLA PROFESSIONALS

UK COLOUR TREND EXPERT

CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL

“This is my Glazing Contour Technique using

Palm Painting, which is the traditional French

method. I always use Blondor Freelights to

do this. This glaze is Pampelonne Peach,

created using Illumina Color 10/1 and Opalessence

by Illumina Color Copper Peach”

Four new shades have joined the Illumina Color

range from Wella Professionals. These shades

are set to expand the already much-loved cool

blonde range, which uses Microlight technology

for a luminous, sheer colour result. It contains

Wella Professionals’ most advanced technology

to help prevent hair damage, and absolutely no

animal-derived ingredients.

10/81 – Great for: lightening natural hair up to 3

levels, neutralisation on warm yellow and orange

undertones to achieve clean, sophisticated

blondes. Also ideal for toning over pre-lightened

hair to achieve icy results

“This is my Glazing Balayage

technique and the glaze is

Sienna Sand, with Illumina

Color 9/59 and Opalessence

by Illumina Color

Platinum Lily”

9/19 – Great for: gently neutralising golden hues

when lightening, or to create a soft, icy beige

when toning pre-lightened hair. Use on natural

hair to achieve natural beige blondes

9/59 – Great for: toning natural hair levels 7 and

above for a delicate, warmer raspberry hue

8/93 - Great for: lightening natural hair on

levels 5 and above. Beautiful for toning brunette

balayage to maintain soft and natural hair highs

CREATIVE HEAD

31


TOUCH OF

BRILLIANCE

GET CREATIVE WITH THE WELLA PROFESSIONALS COLOUR PORTFOLIO. CREATIVE COLOUR TONING

OFFERS LIMITLESS RESULTS WITH COLOR TOUCH

Creative colour doesn’t have to mean vivid brights

or all-over colour work. Robert Eaton, Wella

Professionals technical director UK & Ireland,

loves to create subtle shaping with Color Touch

for fashion-forward finishes and a healthy-looking

finish. “Color Touch is definitely my go-to product

when it comes to toning. Being a salon owner, it’s so

important to have products that instantly deliver the results we want,” he

says. Color Touch is perfect for porous hair post-lifting, as it’s infused with

keratin to give everything a high shine and healthy-looking finish. These

low-commitment demi-permanent shades are perfect for clients who love

to experiment with their looks and shades. “Don’t be scared of toning!” Rob

adds. “Don’t remove the colour too soon – you need to allow the pigment to

develop to enable maximum colour result and longevity.”

SHARE HOW YOU LIKE TO GET CREATIVE WITH WELLA PROFESSIONALS COLOR TOUCH, FOR YOUR CHANCE TO BE FEATURED ON @WELLAHAIRUK!

#WELLACOLOUR #MAKECHANGE

32 CREATIVE HEAD


#ColourVision

GOING FOR GOLD

THESE COLOUR COURSES FROM WELLA PROFESSIONALS WILL HAVE EVERYTHING YOU TOUCH

TURNING TO GOLD – IN MORE WAYS THAT ONE

CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL

BLONDE TOOLBOX

Maximise the potential of your blonde clients by delivering a couture

service with perfect results. This advanced craft one-day course will

enable you to create personalised blonde shades that attract new

clients and keep existing ones excited to come back every time.

Learn how to spot those ‘lifestyle’ blonde clients and how to satisfy

their colour needs with the potential of the full blonde spectrum.

From cool pearls and smoky ashes to warm and vibrant rose golds,

discover the products and techniques to create couture blondes.

PRICE: £174 PLUS VAT

Running throughout 2020. Contact your local Wella Studio for

dates and further details.

COLOUR CRAFT BALAYAGE

It’s become THE essential service to have on your colour menu

– but it remains one of the trickiest skills to master. Take the

guesswork out of the craft to focus on perfect balayage creations

with this one-day Essential Craft course. It will help to ensure that

you can create fashion-focused looks in salon-friendly times. Build

your confidence and master the art of the seamless blend.

PRICE: £174 PLUS VAT

Running throughout 2020. Contact your local Wella Studio for

dates and further details.

STAR BLONDE EDUCATION PACKAGE

Almost half of all salon clients ask for some form of lightening service, so you need to be ready for any challenge you might face.

The Star Blonde package has been crafted to give you all the skills you need to be a rock star when it comes to blondes.

DISCOVER HOUSE OF BLONDOR

(Two hours)

Complimentary (valued at

£100)

COLOUR CRAFT BALAYAGE

(One day)

£174

BLONDE TOOLBOX

(One day)

£174

ULTIMATE BALAYAGE

(One day)

£174

STAR

BLONDE

PACKAGE

£415

Actual value £522

– save £107

CREATIVE HEAD

33


SHELFIE TIME

My favourite way to lighten hair is freehand using a French balayage

technique called Palm Painting, and my secret weapon is definitely Blondor

Freelights. I love it because it gives up to seven levels of clean lift and also

gives me incredible creativity and precision when I am using my brush,

palms and fingers to pre-lighten hair. With the creamy consistency and the

way the product spreads so easily, it’s a dream to use. The results leave

everybody delighted.”

ZOË IRWIN, WELLA PROFESSIONALS UK COLOUR TREND EXPERT

THE COLOUR CLINIC IS OPEN…

EVERY ISSUE WE TACKLE A COLOUR CONUNDRUM WHICH IS FRUSTRATING COLOURISTS UP AND DOWN THE COUNTRY,

WITH THE HELP OF WELLA’S COLOUR CREATIVE GUEST ARTISTS. SHARON COX FROM SANRIZZ TAKES ISSUE WITH TIMING

“People’s lives are so busy and so the whole scenario of people not having time to come

to the salon means I always feel like I’m having to say to my teams ‘speed up, you’re too

slow’. I’m a woman in business with a family and I have lots to do, so I get it, and what

we get as a result is people doing their colour at home. That’s always a massive issue

for hairdressers because it’s such a nightmare to correct. My message is always about

the journey in what we do, and part of that is time management. I think of my clients who

previously had time to spare would happily spend all day in the salon. Now, 10 years down the

line, those clients have to pick up kids and are much busier, so we really need to be aware of that time

issue. Offering express colour services like No Strings Attached Colour for more regular visits, but less time

spent in the chair each time, helps. To stop clients from reaching for box dyes, and then having to spend

twice as long repairing the colour, we need to put them on a colour journey that they understand. Put the

time in at the beginning – and schedule colour appointments in between to maintain it. Once clients start

on their journey and are committed then we can do those quick appointments they want.”

Sanrizz

34 CREATIVE HEAD


WHY I’M

WELLA

There are many reasons why I love Wella Professionals. First, it’s

the amazing choice of products it offers. From stunning colours

and can’t-live-without styling products, to an extensive range of

haircare products that cover all hair and scalp types, there is always

a product to help inspire our teams and delight our clients. Second,

both the technical and business support has been invaluable to KH

Hair in helping us grow and improve our brand. Finally, we love that

Wella is constantly striving to be at the forefront of hair innovation.

For these, and so many other reasons, we have enjoyed every

moment of our 35-year partnership with them. This year KH Hair

is celebrating its centenary and we’re thrilled to be collaborating

with Wella on some really interesting and creative projects. We look

forward to even more exciting times ahead.”

DARREN MESSIAS

MANAGING DIRECTOR, KH HAIR

#ColourVision

CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL

KH Hair

COLOUR CONFIDENTLY WITH WELLA PROFESSIONALS. CONTACT YOUR WELLA PROFESSIONALS SALES REP OR CALL YOUR LOCAL WELLA STUDIO:

LONDON – 020 3650 4700 MANCHESTER – 0161 8342645

DISCOVER THE PRODUCTS AT UK.WELLASTORE.COM. BOOK YOUR FACE-TO-FACE STUDIO AND ONLINE EDUCATION AT EDUCATION.WELLA.COM

@wellahairuk #WellaColour #ColourFlirt Wella Professionals @WellaPRO

CREATIVE HEAD

35


4 NEW ILLUMINA COLOR SHADES

TO EXPAND YOUR COOL BLONDE PORTFOLIO

Sheer colour results with

natural luminosity

Our most advanced technology

against hair damage

No animal-derived ingredients

10/81 9/19 9/59 8/93

Book a course in one of our studios

London: +44 803 650 4700 Manchester: +44 161 834 2645 Dublin:+35 314 160 900

uk.wellastore.com @wellahairuk #WellaColour


NO BLONDE

LEFT UNTONED

Hair by Zoe Irwin, Wella Professionals Colour Trends Expert


Plenty in

Twenty

Royal Horticultural Halls

Christopher Appleton

CREATIVE HEAD

Since 2000

Martin Reichelt

Photography by Jon Baker

2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2020

THE MOMENT: THE IT LIST LAUNCHES AT THE 10TH MOST WANTED AWARDS

THE DATE: SEPTEMBER 2010

2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2020

AS CREATIVE HEAD CELEBRATES ITS 20TH BIRTHDAY,

WE’RE LOOKING BACK OVER THOSE TWO DECADES

TO SELECT SOME CHOICE HIGHLIGHTS FROM OUR

HALLOWED HISTORY

2020

Andrew Thomas Corbett

2020

The 2020 Most Wanted

and The It List Awards are

open for entries!

Turn to page 48

for more

Jimmy Carr with the 2010 team

Nikki Moores

38

The It List, shining a spotlight on emerging hairdressing talents aged

30 and under, joined the Most Wanted Awards in 2010. The fi rst

ever glittering ceremony was hosted by Jimmy Carr and held at

Fashion Week venue the Royal Horticultural Halls in London. Our

fi ve It List winners included Christopher Appleton, whom judges

– including Professor Louise Wilson from Central Saint Martins,

designer and author Doris Lockhart, fashion historian Caroline Cox

and the beauty directors of ELLE, Marie Claire and Tatler – awarded

the title One To Watch. Christopher is now based in Los Angeles

and hairdresser to Kim Kardashian West and Jennifer Lopez, so

they clearly knew what they were talking about…

Carly Aplin

WANT TO SEE the full Creative HEAD timeline?

Visit creativeheadmag.com for more

CREATIVE HEAD


MAKE A

SPLASH!

DRY, FINE HAIR WILL LAP UP THIS

NEW LAUNCH FROM JOICO

CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL

*When using HydraSplash Shampoo, Conditioner, and Leave-in, or HydraSplash Shampoo and Gelée Masque

PARCHED WINTER HAIR, savaged by central heating, attacked by

wind and rain? Frizz, split ends, colour damage, over-styling and

breakage… You feel your clients’ pain. And of course, you know it

doesn’t have to be like this.

Launching in salons this month, the new HydraSplash collection

from JOICO provides 24-hour hydration* for fine to medium

hair, replenishing moisture, shine and softness without weighing

hair down.

The luxurious lather of HydraSplash Hydrating Shampoo

(300ml/10.1fl oz) swiftly removes residue without stripping away

important moisture, leaving hair clean, soft and healthy-looking.

Dense, overly creamy conditioners simply leave fine hair flat

and lifeless. HydraSplash Hydrating Conditioner (250ml/8.5fl oz)

detangles and restores elasticity with a lightweight formula that

won’t drag hair down.

The unique HydraSplash Hydrating Gelée Masque (150ml/5.07fl

oz) creates a wave of hydration without overpowering delicate

strands – the ultimate thirst-quencher for fine, dry, parched hair.

Ideal as a pre blow-dry treatment, HydraSplash Hydrating

Replenishing Leave-In (100ml/3.38fl oz) not only delivers a dose

of hydration, it also banishes frizz to leave hair supple, soft and

shiny. The instant effects are visible, and carry on working long after

application.

Give your clients a spring refresh. Dry, brittle, delicate hair is

nourished and transformed by new JOICO HydraSplash with the

gentle touch it needs.

DISCOVER MORE ABOUT JOICO HYDRASPLASH AT JOICO.EU

39


FOR SALON OWNERS & MANAGERS

001-002_BH_Cover_Salon Success_16pp_GW11.indd 2 18/02/2019 10:18

the

CLUB

creativeheadmag.com/club

SIGN UP NOW

AND RECEIVE A DIVA PRO VELOCE HAIR DRYER, WORTH £49.99*

Win not one but TWO Diva Pro electrical tools, worth more than £100

Already a Creative HEAD Club member? We’ve got something special for you too! One lucky Club

member has the chance to win the Diva Veloce Hair Dryer, £49.99, AND the Diva Rapida Hair Dryer,

£59.99. Simply keep an eye on your inbox for your exclusive link to the competition entry form – all

Creative HEAD Club members will receive an email on 1 March!

cH

CREATIVE

SPRING/2019

HEAD

FOR BUSINESS

NEW RULES:

Have fun

Make lots of

Money

Be number one

ESTD 1979

Salon Success Team

FOR

CREATIVE

HEAD CLUB

MEMBERS

ONLY

LET’S JUST MEET

THIS PAST WEEK

FOR JUST

£10

YOU’LL GET:

• 10 issues of

Creative HEAD

magazine – and

supplements

including Runway,

PAINT and HEAD

for Business –

delivered to your

door

• Exclusive ticket

prices for Creative

HEAD events **

• Exclusive

competitions and

prizes

• Free product

samples from leading

professional brands

*For the fi rst 20 new members to sign up between 1 March and 31 March 2020. Subject to availability,

colours may vary, and no cash equivalent will be offered. **Selected events only. For more details

contact events@alfol.co.uk

ALREADY A CLUB MEMBER?

THEN WE MIGHT HAVE A BIRTHDAY PRESENT FOR YOU…

INSIDE THIS ISSUE FOR TWO CREATIVE HEAD CLUB MEMBERS WILL BE A PLATINUM TICKET,

WHICH MEANS A GIFT FROM SOME VERY GENEROUS HAIRDRESSING BRANDS!

In March, you could win…

Experience the incredible portfolio of ASP Affi nage Salon

Professional with this Botanical Colour introductory kit and

Colour Dynamics kit duo, worth £176+ VAT!

Feel the heat with a stylist’s edit* of Neuro tools and Neuro

Liquid goodies from John Paul Mitchell Systems, worth £790

– thanks Salon Success!

*Not all products in the edit are pictured

Join the Creative HEAD Club now for just £10!

Visit creativeheadmag.com/club


THIRST

QUENCHER

JOICO’S MOISTURE RECOVERY

LINE HAS A NEW LOOK AND NEW

TECHNOLOGY. DRINK IT IN…

CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL

*When using Moisture Recovery Shampoo and Treatment Balm; against combing breakage on damaged hair versus a non-conditioning shampoo

**When using Moisture Recovery Shampoo and Moisture Recovery Conditioner versus untreated, damaged hair

***When using Moisture Recovery Shampoo and Treatment Balm; against combing breakage on damaged hair versus a non-conditioning shampoo

DRY, DULL, FLYAWAY and static-loaded split ends are common

features of thick, coarse hair. Winter weather will only have

compounded the problem (and probably created a morning hair

routine that lasts longer than a paper round). Good to hear, therefore,

that from this month your moisture-ravaged clients can dive into

JOICO’s Moisture Recovery line – now infused with nourishing

Jojoba Oil, vitamin-packed sea kelp and the brand’s unique

liposome delivery system, SmartRelease Technology, to deliver

the deep replenishment they need for their hair to look and feel

beautifully shiny and healthy all day. According to JOICO, a

single treatment delivers 24-hour moisture replenishment,*

double the softness** and leaves it three-times less prone to

breakage.*** That’s some recovery!

Each revitalising wash with the luxurious Moisture Recovery

Moisturizing Shampoo (300ml/10.1fl oz) restores elasticity

and smoothness to coarse, brittle hair. There’s a reason it’s called

“hydration salvation”!

Moisture Recovery Moisturising Conditioner (250ml/8.5fl oz)

restores softness, smoothness and shine to tired, fried, frizzy hair,

with an instant detangling effect for easier styling.

Thirsty for more? Reach for Moisture Recovery Treatment Balm

(250ml/8.5fl oz). Three to five minutes is all it takes for this intensive

treatment to increase strength, reduce breakage, calm frizz and

bump up shine and softness.

DISCOVER MORE ABOUT JOICO MOISTURE RECOVERY AT JOICO.EU

41


CREATIVE HEAD’S BUSINESS NETWORKING

EVENT FOR SALON OWNERS AND MANAGERS


PROGRESS

PREPARE AND BUILD FOR THE FUTURE

DEVELOP YOUR TEAM

FIND YOUR SPECIALISM

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29 & 30 MARCH

PARK PLAZA LONDON RIVERBANK HOTEL

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BUY TICKETS ONLINE CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM/SALONSMART OR CALL 01434 610944

IN PARTNERSHIP WITH

ASSOCIATE SPONSORS


Sam Burnett

Hare & Bone

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Treatwell

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L’Oréal Professionnel

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3•6•5 Education

Billy Fry and Ellenora Dean

Fry + Dean

Elena Lavagni

Neville Hair & Beauty

Giorgia Rossi

Treatwell

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Bar Hairdressing

Matt Bartell

Threads & Co

Elena Tayleur

Linnaean

Mark Maciver and

the SliderCuts team

Leo Bancroft

Leo Bancroft

CREATIVE HEAD’S BUSINESS NETWORKING

EVENT FOR SALON OWNERS AND MANAGERS


Gavin Mills

Bad Apple Hair

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Mayfive

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STIL

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CV Hair

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THE PRESENTERS – READY TO SHARE

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PARK PLAZA LONDON RIVERBANK HOTEL

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CREATIVE HEAD’S BUSINESS NETWORKING

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TWO DAYS

ALL THIS!

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BUY TICKETS ONLINE CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM/SALONSMART OR CALL 01434 610944

IN PARTNERSHIP WITH

ASSOCIATE SPONSORS


MW

IT20


2020

2020

OPEN FOR ENTRY!

CREATIVE HEAD’S MOST WANTED AND THE IT LIST AWARDS CELEBRATE THE

MOST EXCITING AND ACCOMPLISHED TALENTS IN UK AND IRISH HAIRDRESSING.

WILL YOU SEE YOUR NAME IN LIGHTS IN 2020?

CREATIVEHEADMAG.COMMOSTWANTED

CREATIVEHEADMAG.COMTHEITLIST

#MWIT20 CREATIVEHEADMAG

event


2020

14 AWARDS – ARE YOU

READY TO CLAIM ONE?

SINCE 2000, CREATIVE HEAD’S MOST WANTED

has catapulted the hairdressing industry’s brightest and

most brilliant stars into the spotlight, honouring everyone

from creative colourists and runway rebels to local salon

heroes, tireless educators, pioneers and trendsetters.

Which trophy will have your name on it in this, our most

glittery and glamorous 20th birthday year?

SALON | SESSION | STARS

2020 CATEGORIES >

ALL OPEN TO HAIR PROFESSIONALS, SALONS AND FREELANCERS IN THE UK AND IRELAND


INDIVIDUAL AWARDS

MEN’S HAIR SPECIALIST

FOR A SALON OR SESSION HAIRDRESSER DEMONSTRATING

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Category sponsor

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FOR SALON TEAMWORK AT ITS BEST

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INDEPENDENT STYLIST

FOR A STYLIST LOOKING AFTER CLIENTS WHILE

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Category sponsor

BEST NEW BOUTIQUE SALON

FOR A NEW SMALL SALON WITH A UNIQUE SENSE OF STYLE

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FOR A SALON THAT BEST SERVES ITS LOCAL COMMUNITY

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FOR THE BEST ON-TREND IMAGE OF THE YEAR

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AWARD FOR INNOVATION

REWARDING AN ORIGINAL HAIRDRESSING INITIATIVE THAT HAS PROVED

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event

#MWIT20 @CREATIVEHEADMAG

MOST WANTED DATES AND DEADLINES

ENTRY FORMS CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM/MOSTWANTED

COMPETITION CLOSES 5PM, WEDNESDAY 13 MAY

FINALISTS REVEALED WEDNESDAY 10 JUNE

GRAND FINAL MONDAY 7 SEPTEMBER

QUESTIONS? EVENTS@ALFOL.CO.UK OR CALL 01434 610 940


2020

WANT IT? LET’S DO IT!

IF YOU’RE YOUNG, AMBITIOUS AND WANT TO MAKE YOUR MARK

IN HAIRDRESSING, GET READY FOR THE ULTIMATE CAREER

KICKSTART – THE IT LIST 2020 IS OPEN FOR ENTRY!

#MWIT20 @CREATIVEHEADMAG

EXCLUSIVE SPONSOR


2020 CATEGORIES

NEW!

Presented by Creative HEAD in an exclusive partnership with ghd, The

It List is the most important competition in UK and Irish hairdressing for

hairdressing professionals aged 30 or under. The search is on for a new

roster of stars. Are YOU the next big thing in hair?

THE RISING STAR

FOR A YOUNG SALON ASSISTANT WHO IS ENTHUSIASTIC,

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THE EDITORIAL STYLIST

FOR A YOUNG HAIRDRESSER TURNING HEADS ON SET

THE ENTREPRENEUR

FOR A YOUNG SALON OWNER WHO HAS CREATED

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FOR A YOUNG STYLIST OR COLOURIST WHO

IS PUSHING CREATIVE BOUNDARIES

THE IT GUY/GIRL

TWO TROPHIES – ONE FOR A GUY, ONE FOR A GIRL – AWARDED

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AREAS OF WORK AND DESTINED FOR GREATNESS

THE IT LIST DATES/DEADLINES

ENTRY FORMS CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM/THEITLIST

COMPETITION CLOSES 5PM, WEDNESDAY 13 MAY

FINALISTS REVEALED WEDNESDAY 10 JUNE

GRAND FINAL MONDAY 7 SEPTEMBER

QUESTIONS? EMAIL EVENTS@ALFOL.CO.UK OR CALL 01434 610 940

event


EDINBURGH

MONDAY 16 MARCH, 7-10PM, DOVECOT STUDIOS

#SydSquad

INDEPENDENTLY AWESOME BUT TOGETHER THEY ARE A SUPER SQUAD OF SESSION STYLING GENIUSES…

Syd Hayes

Paula McCash

Sam Burnett


MODEL TEAM

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TICKETS £25 / FIVE FOR £100 / CLUB MEMBERS PAY £15

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Includes canapés on arrival, drinks all evening and a gift from sponsor BaByliss PRO


Noughties

by nature

WELCOME TO AVEDA ARTIST, A COMPETITION TO CELEBRATE THE TALENT ACROSS THE AVEDA SALON

NETWORK. AND THE PRIZE IS A BIG ONE – STYLISTS UP AND DOWN THE UK SUBMIT CREATIVE IMAGES

ON SOCIAL MEDIA FOR THE CHANCE TO WIN A SHOOT PUBLISHED IN CREATIVE HEAD, AND MENTORED

BY MEMBERS OF THE AVEDA ARTISTIC TEAM. THIS SPRING, LET’S EMBRACE AN ATHLEISURE VIBE WITH

A NU NOUGHTIES THEME, AS MARY DODD AND SARAH JUMA GET BUSY BRAIDING WITH AVEDA’S OWN

BEA CARMICHAEL. PLAIT’S THE WAY TO DO IT…

PHOTOGRAPHY BY COLIN DACK

56

CREATIVE HEAD


CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL

GO ONLINE to see all competition

entries – search #avedaartist on

Instagram, or visit @AvedaUK

CREATIVE HEAD

57


“I’ve never done anything like this before. I’ve learnt a

lot today – being precise with everything, because if a

hair is out of place it’ll show on the pictures. I wanted

to show different skills so I chose three different types

of braids – a Dutch braid, a Chinese ladder braid and a

figure-of-eight braid. I wanted to fit in as much texture

and dimension as possible”

MARY DODD

@MARYALICEHAIR

“We wanted summer ’00s braids,

and I used YouTube and Instagram

for inspiration and ideas. This

has about six braids all different

sized because I wanted it to look

different. I pulled them apart to

add more texture instead of doing

the normal two-stranded braid”

SARAH JUMA

@HAIRBYSJLONDON

58

CREATIVE HEAD


CREATIVE DIRECTION Bea Carmichael @beacarmichael13. COLOUR Danielle Laing @daniella_coolabella, Taylor Demarco @taylordemarco_x. STYLING

Mary Dodd @maryalicehair, Sarah Juma @hairbysjlondon. MAKE-UP Lucy Broggio @lucy.broggio_mua. PHOTOGRAPHY Colin Dack @colin_dack

CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL

“The Aveda Artist shoot opens the

door to published work, giving the

individual the opportunity to create

their artistic vision. We celebrate the

winners and the salons they work in

– it’s incredible to see your image in a

magazine that both hairdressers and

clients read. With Creative HEAD, the

dream of having work published in a

fantastic magazine becomes a reality!”

BEA CARMICHAEL, AVEDA GLOBAL EDUCATOR

@BEACARMICHAEL13

CREATIVE HEAD

59


ghd at House of Holland

60

CREATIVE HEAD


ELECTRICALS

…SO TAKE OUT ALL YOUR OLD, WORN-OUT HOT TOOLS FROM YOUR KIT

AND REPLENISH IT WITH SOME OF THE FRESHEST AND MOST FABULOUS STYLERS,

DRYERS, WANDS AND CLIPPERS TO ENSURE YOU’RE UP TO ANY TASK YOU’RE

CHALLENGED WITH! THE HEAT IS ON

HAIRDRESSERS AND THEIR tools, it’s a love affair for the ages.

Stylists can be very selective about what to use on their clients’

hair and like to stick to a brand they know and trust. What works

for one might not be quite right for another. It could be too loud,

too heavy, the cord too short… we get it. These are the tools of

your trade.

Where do we start? The dryer is perhaps the electrical tool you

use the most. On average, professional hair dryers should last

roughly 800 hours before they admit defeat, and this also depends

on the right care and maintenance. But with so much on the

market to choose from, it’s tough to know where to begin.

AC|DC MOTORS – WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE?

AC or DC? Do these options leave you ‘Thunderstruck’? Sorry,

couldn’t resist. The type of motor installed in a hair dryer will make

a difference on the power, air flow and the heat diffused out of it.

AC (alternating current) motors are typically heavier, have a longer

life expectancy, faster drying time and are much quieter than their

DC (direct current) counterparts. However, as technology has

developed over the years, brushless DC motors with integrated

AC-DC power supply are being used by most major hair dryer

manufacturers. Why? Well, whereas prior carbon ‘brushes’ tended

to wear out over time and cause the motor to stop working,

‘brushless’ motors use magnets and electronics to drive the

rotations instead. This can extend the life of the dryer to be roughly

10 times longer than AC motor dryers.

These integrated units weigh far less than a conventional AC

motor and are substantially smaller in size, which has contributed

significantly to making hair dryers easier to handle. New from ghd,

the helios professional hair dryer contains a brushless motor, while

also being quieter and giving users 30 per cent shinier hair to boot.

Aeroprecis technology delivers a concentrated temperature and

airflow distribution, giving the stylist more precise control

and less frizz.

Of course, bucking the trend entirely is the Dyson Supersonic

hair dryer Professional editioncontaining its own V9 digital motor.

It contains an axial flow impeller that’s essentially like a modern

jet engine sucking air in and out along the direction of the motor’s

axis, helping keep the motor diameter as small as possible while

delivering high airflow.

CREATIVE HEAD

61


#Electricals

Zoë Irwin for ghd helios

SEE Zoë Irwin styling this look

on Creative HEAD TV!

creativeheadmag.com/ch-tv

TOO HOT TO HANDLE

The type of plate in your straighteners is a fiercely discussed topic

in hairdressing. Everyone has their favourite but it’s worth noting a

few fundamental differences. Ceramic plates have high ranges of

heat options, they won’t get hot spots and are less likely to create

tangles when pulling hair.

If you’re looking for quick heat and a kit bag that won’t weigh

you down, titanium is the way to go. It’s fast, light, and the metal

lasts for a long time because it’s not porous like ceramic.

Tourmaline-covered plates are durable as they are less likely to

chip or suffer heat loss over time. The smooth finish it creates will

keep heat on the plate, which means consistent heat all over.

CLIPPERS FOR THE WIN

A pair of quality clippers are an essential bit of kit for any stylist

and there are several elements to consider before investing.

First is the motor. Rotary, magnetic, and pivot motors are the

three most common types found in professional clippers and each

offer something different but they should all last as long as your

working day without overheating. Next are the blades, for obvious

reasons. Common materials used for hair clipper blades include

titanium, stainless steel, ceramic coated and carbon. Finally, how

easy the clipper is to use. A lot of aspects go into deciding this

and a lot depends on personal preference but much hinges on the

weight, design and grip. If you’re holding it for eight hours a day or

more it needs to be comfortable to hold but also robust enough to

last a long time.

Any barber worth their salt will tell you caring for your blades is

essential in maintaining their longevity and performance. “Start by

turning off the clipper and removing fragments of hair from the blade

with a clipper brush or compressor,” says Lynndy Rolfe, international

educator at Andis. “Clean and disinfect the blades using an

appropriate solution and wipe dry. After that, it’s essential to oil your

clipper to keep it running smoothly before storing in a proper kit bag.”

TREAT YOUR TOOL TO A LITTLE TLC

As a professional, you know that keeping your kit clean is

essential. For hygiene and safety, of course, but also keeping

a tool well maintained will make a huge difference as to how

effectively it works and how long it lasts.

Removing and emptying a filter should be carried out at least

once a week on a professionally-used hair dryer. If the filter is

backed up with debris, dust and anything else, your expensive

dryer will end up working overtime. It’ll shorten its lifespan and

your return on investment will be rubbish. At the top end of the

price point, the Dyson Supersonic hair dryer Professional comes

with a removable, washable filter that also boasts its own edition

cleaning brush, encouraging stylists to take a little time out of their

routines to invest in a cleaning ritual for their dryer.

With curling tongs and wands, Syd Hayes, session stylist and

ambassador for BaByliss PRO, recommends cleaning them with

a cloth, ensuring they are completely cool and unplugged first.

“Use a slightly damp cloth and wipe over the barrel and handle

gently,” he says. “Even if there’s product stuck to the barrel don’t

be tempted to use a scourer, as this can remove the coating or

damage the product.”

Sam McKnight for BaByliss PRO at Max Mara

62



#Electricals

The heat of

the moment

INNOVATIVE, CREATIVE AND OH-SO SEXY, THIS IS OUR PICK OF THE NEW TOOLS OF YOUR TRADE

andis master cordless clippers

“I use the Master Cordless every day – it’s changed my working life. It has all

the same power and precision as the original Master clipper but without a

cord. It’s so light, too! I recommend it to anyone looking to invest in their kit

and their career”

BALDY, ANDIS EUROPEAN LEAD EDUCATOR

£250, barberblades.co.uk

ghd helios

This new dryer offers longer-lasting results thanks

to Aeroprecis technology, a combination of internal

aerodynamics and a contoured nozzle. Drying time is also

reduced due to its brushless 2,200W DC motor, which

also makes it lighter and more efficient for pros to use.

£159, ghdhair.com

Electric London WT-2 Professional Straightening Iron

Designed by Most Wanted Award winner Mark Woolley,

this wonder tool features a digital temperature control that

allows you to set the perfect heat for the purpose. Worried

about frazzling over-processed hair? Not a problem with

the titanium plates that provide a smooth glide through.

£95, electric-hair.com

Dyson

Supersonic hair

dryer Professional

To use it once is to

truly believe in the

magic of this wonder

tool. It’s quiet, quick

and claims to increase

smoothness by 75 per

cent, increase shine by

up to 132 per cent, and

decrease frizz and flyaways.

£275, dyson.com

Cloud Nine Micro Wand

This new baby of the Cloud

Nine family is designed

to enhance and define to

create natural-looking curls

that last. It features a

tapered, mineral-infused

ceramic barrel to produce

anything from tight curls

to large waves. No

session stylist should be

without one.

£109.99,

cloudninehair.com

BaByliss PRO Titanium Expression Curling Tong

Combining adjustable heat up to 210°C with a

titanium ceramic barrel, these tongs deliver constant,

even heat distribution for smooth, glossy curls.

£50, babylisspro.co.uk

L’Oréal Professionnel Steampod 3.0

Unlike traditional styling tools, this clever gadget uses

steam to tame hair with minimal damage. With a

bristled brush on one side and a smooth plate on the

other, high pressure steam delivers shine.

£199, lorealprofessionnel.co.uk

Diva

Professional

Veloce 3800 Pro

Salon technology and

performance combined with

a pocket-pleasing price, the

Veloce 3800 Pro Dryer is

great for your salon and retail.

£49.99, divapro.co.uk

Hair Tools Electric Head Jog Steam Straightener

“This is a game-changer in electrical heat styling. I’ve been using the Electric Head Jog Steam

Straightener on my clients for straightening, curling and waving hair because it creates stunning

results and hair is left nourished, healthy and full of glossy shine, thanks to

the steam function. My clients love the look and

feel of their hair afterwards”

GARY TAYLOR, EDWARD & CO

£39.99+VAT, hairtools.co.uk

64

CREATIVE HEAD



WE’VE GOT THE POWER

TANGLE TEEZER’S PATENTED TEETH MEAN THAT THE POWER

IS ALWAYS IN YOUR HANDS, NO MATTER THE SITUATION

TANGLE TEEZER tools have been a tried and

tested favourite for stylists since they launched

more than a decade ago. But what is it about them

that makes their performance unrivalled from the

backwash through to the styling station? The

answer is simple: it’s their unique teeth.

Innovation is at the core of Tangle Teezer’s

business, to be able to revolutionise what stylists

and clients alike can expect from a hairbrush,

whether it’s used for detangling, blow-drying or

styling hair.

Tangle Teezer’s exclusive, patented teeth technology

is adapted across each hairbrush to suit every hair

type from fine, coloured locks to thick, textured curls.

DETANGLING

The long teeth detangle, remove knots, reduce breakage and leave hair

healthier-looking, while the short teeth smooth and leave it looking glossy

and frizz-free.

BLOW-STYLING

Hair flows effortlessly through the bottle-shaped fixed base teeth, while the

heat-resistant flexible tips offer precise pick up at the root. The overlapping

configuration extracts excess water for a faster drying time.

STYLING

Whether you’re looking to create volume, texture, height and create up-dos

or simply add amazing smoothness and shine to your client’s hair, the styling

range can do the job with ease.

66 CREATIVE HEAD


Styles to sink your teeth into

TANGLE TEEZER HAS CREATED A COLLECTION OF LOOKS AS A STUNNING SOURCE OF INSPIRATION

CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL

ALL-TIME HERO

A timeless and classic style with a

modern twist. Inspired by the big and

bouncy voluminous blow-drys of the

’60s (think Brigitte Bardot), it’s suitable

for all hair lengths, worn with height and

volume at the crown, a slight dishevelled

wave and plenty of movement. Add a

simple hair band to elevate the look.

The Wet Detangler

Blow Styling Round Tool (Full Size)

Back-Combing Tool

MID-LENGTH MAGIC

Mid-length hair remains a hugely

popular trend this year due to its

versatility. Create natural volume and

movement by setting the hair in loose,

large pin curls after blow-drying and

choosing a relaxed parting for a natural,

effortless result.

Salon Elite

Blow Styling Round Tool (Half Size)

The Ultimate

BOB BRIGADE

A great bob never goes out of fashion,

and jaw-line styles are very much in this

season. Create a smooth and shiny finish

with defined ends using these tools for

a chic finish. Depending on your client,

you can interpret this to achieve sharper,

more textured ends or a smoother,

bevelled shape.

The Wet Detangler

Blow Styling Paddle Tool (Half Size)

The Ultimate

DETANGLING, BLOW-DRYING OR STYLING – WHATEVER TANGLE TEEZER YOU CHOOSE, THE POWER IS ALWAYS IN THE

TEETH. DISCOVER FOR YOURSELF AT TANGLETEEZER.COM

@TangleTeezer

CREATIVE HEAD

67


#MWIT

GIRL ON FIRE

FROM WORKING BEHIND THE SCENES ON FASHION SHOWS TO COUNTING TOP SUPERMODELS AS CLIENTS,

IT’S NO WONDER PAULA MCCASH SCOOPED THE INAUGURAL MOST WANTED INDEPENDENT STYLIST AWARD

LISTING PAULA MCCASH’S work as a session hairdresser is

akin to reading a roll call of the most exciting forces in fashion,

from living legends to exciting new names. She’s styled Georgia

May Jagger, Ugbad Abdi, Erin O’Connor and Liv Tyler, and was

responsible for shaving Adwoa Aboah’s hair at the A/W19 Matty

Bovan show. Her catwalk credentials include House of Holland

and Shrimps, she’s worked on campaigns for brands including

Polo Ralph Lauren, been published in Vogue – and now she’s the

fi rst winner of the Most Wanted Independent Stylist Award.

Paula cut her teeth as a hairdresser during competitions in

Scotland, an experience that helped hone her skills and realise her

passion for hair. “I’m originally from Dundee and was part of not

only the McIntyre’s but also the Alan Edwards creative teams and

won both men’s and women’s categories in the L’Oréal Colour

68 CREATIVE HEAD


This image: hair by Paula McCash for BaByliss PRO, fashion by Mekel Bailey, make-up by Cat Parnell,

photography by Jon Baker. As seen exclusively in Creative HEAD October 2018

Trophy for Scotland,” Paula explains. “Through being in a

team, pushing myself technically and artistically, I discovered

this is what I love. It gave me the confi dence I needed.”

It was only a matter of time until Paula was enticed down

to the fashion capital of the UK, where she’s built a network

of contacts. “I collaborate with lots of creatives that I have

connected with over the years and feel I am part of a new

breed of emerging stylists and photographers,” she explains.

“I’ve had my work published in Vogue and LOVE, and I work

on global advertising campaigns alongside Syd.”

Syd, of course, refers to Syd Hayes – backstage star,

winner of two Most Wanted Session Stylist titles and the

man that calls Paula his ‘right-hand woman’ on set. “I

seriously lobbied Syd and his agent to be part of his show

team and then did two seasons with him before being

appointed as his fi rst assistant,” reveals Paula. “Not only

is this a high-pressure job, but it also comes with a lot of

responsibilities. I need to ensure my skills are honed and I

am constantly developing and learning new techniques to

enable me to execute Syd’s vision.”

Another highlight was contributing to Edward Enninful’s fi rst issue as editor of

Vogue in December 2017. “It was a shoot called ‘Sunglasses’ and the brief was

to keep it real – working with the models’ own texture and emphasising natural

beauty. There wasn’t much time allocated, so I had to do a lot of hair on set. It’s

amazing what you can come up with in a short space of time!”

When she’s not on set or backstage, Paula splits her time between a studio

in Soho and a salon in East London, where she rents a chair to fi t in with her

own hectic schedule. “I’ve built up a loyal clientele and now work from a private

little studio in Soho called About This Place,” she says. “It’s appointment-only

and has a fantastic view over the rooftops of London, which my clients love. I

manage my own schedule and book myself into the studio whenever I’m free

from session work. Some of my clients prefer East and some prefer Soho, so this

allows great fl exibility for them and also ensures I maintain a diverse clientele.”

Solid foundations have been a secret to Paula’s success – it’s impossible

to underestimate the importance of the fundamentals. “I have a strong

understanding of classic hair techniques from working in salons since I was a

Saturday girl and still at school,” she says. “In recent years, colouring and styling

wigs has become second nature and it really is a game changer in session work.

If I won the lottery I would buy a studio full of wigs just to experiment with. That

would be my hairdressing geek’s dream!”

The hairdressing landscape is forever changing and, to refl ect the

rise in freelance hairdressers, Creative HEAD launched the Most

Wanted Independent Stylist Award for 2019. When Paula won the

trophy, she described the moment as giving her a real sense of

achievement. “It’s easy for someone like me to slip through the

net somewhere between the session world and the hairdressing

industry,” says Paula. “I’m super-grateful as the category has

me down to a tee! Winning has given me recognition within the

industry and it’s also allowed me to build stronger relationships

with brands and publications. It’s given me confi dence

to continue to pursue my career path, knowing I have

the support of the industry behind me.”

SEE PAULA, Syd Hayes and the Syd

Squad talk live at the Coterie Edinburgh on

19 March creativeheadmag.com/events

2019

CREATIVE HEAD

69


70

CREATIVE HEAD


BORNE OUT OF SAM BURNETT’S PASSION FOR BIG HAIR AND MAXIMUM TEXTURE,

GLITTERBOX FROM THE HARE & BONE ART TEAM IS ALL ABOUT HAVING FUN,

EXPLORING AND PUSHING THE BOUNDARIES OF DIFFERENT TEXTURES

PHOTOGRAPHY BY JENNY HANDS

CREATIVE HEAD 71


72

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CREATIVE HEAD 73


74

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CREATIVE HEAD 75

HAIR Hare & Bone Art Team. MAKE-UP Bea Sweet. STYLING Neil Stuart.


76

CREATIVE HEAD


Good times

THE SAKS BEST OF TIMES BRAND CAMPAIGN WELCOMES HEART-STOPPINGLY

BEAUTIFUL LOOKS THAT REAL WOMEN UP AND DOWN THE UK WILL CRAVE

PHOTOGRAPHY BY CATHERINE HARBOUR

CREATIVE HEAD 77


78

CREATIVE HEAD


CREATIVE HEAD 79

HAIR Saks Art Team. STYLING Karl Willett. MAKE-UP Lan Nguyen-Grealis.


Scene

THE HOTTEST EVENTS EVERY MONTH – GET YOURSELF SCENE!

Darren Fowler

Blow UP

Starting a new decade of creativity and inspiration, Fashion

in Motion returned to the V&A with a bang, as Central Saint

Martins graduate Fredrik Tjærandsen showcased highlights

from his incredible Moments of Clarity presentation. Having

set social media ablaze last year with his otherworldly rubber

‘bubbles’ from the BA Fashion showcase, Tjærandsen won

the L’Oréal Professionnel Young Talent Award last year,

despite not a single stitch being used in the collection. Made

entirely from biodegradable natural rubber latex sourced

sustainably and responsibly from growers in Sri Lanka,

Tjærandsen’s designs support local communities making

a living from the forests. Leading the L’Oréal Professionnel

Portfolio hair team backstage was Fowler35’s Darren Fowler,

who took inspiration from the garments to create a sculpted,

wet look across nine models. TECNI.ART Extreme Splash

was applied with a brush to keep hair slicked down without

the use of oil, which would melt the latex. Don’t want to cause

a bang…

80

CREATIVE HEAD


From left: Lisa Oxenham, Madeleine

Spencer, Adam Andrascik, Luke

Hersheson, Zoë Irwin and Harriet Stokes

Going

THROUGH

changes

PRINT VERSUS DIGITAL. Social media stand out.

Authenticity versus over-sharing. These, and other

pressing existential questions for the hair professional

and modern citizen, formed the basis for the first Coterie

gathering of the year – and with no fewer than six guest

speakers and the promise of goody bags filled with the

stunning new JoiFull volumising range from sponsor

JOICO, it’s no wonder the event was packed to the

rafters. The Times They Are A-Changin’ saw questions

being posed by Creative HEAD editor Amanda

Nottage and the answers being debated by an expert

panel of changemakers that included journalists Lisa

Oxenham (beauty and style director at Marie Claire)

and Madeleine Spencer (Beauty Full Lives podcast),

industry trendsetters Luke Hersheson and Zoë Irwin,

Not Another Salon’s Instagram star Harriet Stokes

and international fashion consultant Adam Andrascik.

The results were fascinating, insightful and thoughtprovoking

– and 100 per cent relevant to us all.

TO READ debate highlights and find out

about our Edinburgh event on 16 March,

visit creativeheadmag.com/thecoterie

CREATIVE HEAD 81


The most incredible day at the

@wellahairuk London Studios

with the #wellapassionistas

Twinning is winning with my

salon (and IRL) sister

@lisa–at–flint @flint–hair–

#BTS on set with @creativeheadmag –

look out for the April cover shoot!

Feeling fruity with the perfect

apricot shade, created for

my wonderful client Adele

In the

frame

Wella Passionista and senior colourist

at Flint Hair, Katie Ottolangui

(@katieotto______) snaps away

One of my many Warholinspired

moodboards for the

#ColourInfluenceProject

SHOOT AND SEND Want to give us

a snapshot of your world? Tweet

us at @creativeheadmag now!

#ThrowBack to the Colour

Inspiration trip in NYC.

Friends has got nothing on us!

It’s all in the details…

I LOVE a statement

hair accessory!

Cutesy Parisian Bob –

haircut by me and the most

beautiful foiliage by

@bcoloured

Had the pleasure of working with

@tombadgerhair and @thomasfrearhair

today. Shooting with Wella and

@zoeirwinhair for @creativeheadmag

Taking self-portrait #inspo

from Andy Warhol for

#ColourInfluenceProject

82

CREATIVE HEAD


Rapida4000PRO

Long life AC motor

and slim barrel for

expert results

NEW

More ions

More power

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Less weight

VELOCE3800PRO

Lightweight and

powerful for

professional results

NEW

More ions

More power

Less noise

Less weight

Visit divapro.co.uk or contact your local wholesaler


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