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Irish Beauty March-April 2020 Issue 144

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<strong>March</strong> & <strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong> <strong>Issue</strong> <strong>144</strong><br />

Why SPF isn’t just<br />

for summer<br />

Oh what<br />

Sculpt &<br />

Camouflage<br />

with Builder Gels<br />

What’s<br />

BIG<br />

a show!in brows<br />

As spring approaches, we reveal the latest<br />

launches, industry innovators and treatment<br />

trends driving the sector at the <strong>Irish</strong> <strong>Beauty</strong> Show.<br />

for <strong>2020</strong>


5


Contact<br />

Publisher<br />

Brett Fairholm<br />

+44 (0) 1480 353 433<br />

brett@irishbeauty.ie<br />

Editor<br />

Melissa Dennis-Casement<br />

melissa@irishbeauty.ie<br />

Design<br />

Darren Hassett<br />

darren@aitireland.com<br />

Advertising & Exhibition Sales<br />

Brett Fairholm<br />

+44 (0) 1480 353 433<br />

brett@irishbeauty.ie<br />

Accounts<br />

Tracey Board<br />

1800 625 179<br />

tracey@aitireland.com<br />

Marketing<br />

Amelia Black<br />

1800 625 179<br />

amelia@aitireland.com<br />

ABT Student Ambassador<br />

Martin Widdicombe<br />

+44 (0) 7854 610089<br />

martin@abtinsurance.co.uk<br />

Subscriptions<br />

1800 625 179<br />

Online<br />

www.irishbeauty.ie<br />

<strong>Irish</strong><strong>Beauty</strong>Show<br />

Official Partners<br />

@<strong>Irish</strong><strong>Beauty</strong>Show<br />

@irishbeautyshow<br />

The publisher has taken all reasonable measures to<br />

ensure the accuracy of the information in <strong>Irish</strong> <strong>Beauty</strong> and<br />

cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions from<br />

any information given in this or previous editions of <strong>Irish</strong><br />

<strong>Beauty</strong> or for any consequences thereof.<br />

Editor's Letter.<br />

Now that <strong>March</strong><br />

is here it means<br />

just one thing –<br />

it’s show time!<br />

Welcome to the<br />

<strong>Irish</strong> <strong>Beauty</strong> Show<br />

issue, packed<br />

with everything<br />

you need to know to get the most out of<br />

your visit.<br />

The <strong>Irish</strong> <strong>Beauty</strong> Show <strong>2020</strong> runs on Sunday<br />

8th and Monday 9th <strong>March</strong> at the RDS,<br />

in association with ABT and <strong>Irish</strong> <strong>Beauty</strong><br />

magazine. If you’ve yet to do so, book your<br />

tickets online at www.irishbeauty.ie, where<br />

you can also plan your visit.<br />

Just flip this issue over to discover your<br />

packed Show Guide, filled with exhibitors’<br />

show offers, details of who’s appearing<br />

on stage, floor plans, guides to this year’s<br />

<strong>Irish</strong> National Make-up, Nail and Body<br />

Paint Tournaments, and of course, a list<br />

of everyone who is exhibiting at the show.<br />

There’s also a handy FAQs section, as well<br />

as our guide to getting the most out of your<br />

show experience.<br />

Inside this issue of <strong>Irish</strong> <strong>Beauty</strong>, we also<br />

showcase the latest beauty, nails and<br />

tanning product launches, as well as<br />

highlight new treatments available to <strong>Irish</strong><br />

salons and spas; now that the spring<br />

season is here there are some fabulous new<br />

releases that we’re super excited about.<br />

You’ll find loads of them at the show!<br />

As you’d expect, the <strong>Irish</strong> <strong>Beauty</strong> team will<br />

be at the show and we’d love to meet you!<br />

Come and visit the team and myself on our<br />

stand, share your ideas on what you’d like<br />

us to feature in the magazine in the future,<br />

and let us show you around our <strong>Irish</strong> <strong>Beauty</strong><br />

website, complete with the latest industry<br />

news, beauty business listings, in-depth<br />

articles and how-tos.<br />

Remember to follow the event on social<br />

media, and like, tag and share your photos<br />

and videos of the <strong>Irish</strong> <strong>Beauty</strong> Show <strong>2020</strong><br />

so we can see who you’ve met, which new<br />

products you’ve discovered and what you’ve<br />

been buying! Find us at @<strong>Irish</strong><strong>Beauty</strong>Show<br />

/ <strong>Irish</strong><strong>Beauty</strong>Show and tag #<strong>Irish</strong><strong>Beauty</strong><br />

#<strong>Irish</strong><strong>Beauty</strong>Show #<strong>Irish</strong><strong>Beauty</strong>Magazine<br />

We’re looking forward to meeting you!<br />

Melissa Dennis-Casement<br />

Editor, <strong>Irish</strong> <strong>Beauty</strong><br />

Contents<br />

30 <strong>Beauty</strong>: Brow Treatments<br />

Lamination, bespoke colouring and fluffy finishes are set<br />

to big in brows for <strong>2020</strong>.<br />

38 Nails: Builder Gels<br />

Today’s choice of builder gels offer strength, elegance and<br />

faster enhancement options for sculpting and camouflage.<br />

40 Candice Gardner Writes:<br />

Year-round UV Protection<br />

Dermalogica’s Candice Gardner on why SPF isn’t just<br />

for summer.<br />

43 <strong>Beauty</strong> Talks<br />

Flair’s Emma James meets Make-up Artist Michelle<br />

Regazzoli Stone, AKA MRS Makeup.<br />

44 <strong>Irish</strong> <strong>Beauty</strong> Show <strong>2020</strong> Preview<br />

Everything you need to know to get the most out of your<br />

visit to this year’s event.<br />

Regulars<br />

11 Snapshot!<br />

22 <strong>Beauty</strong> Product News<br />

36 Nail Products & News<br />

42 Education News & Updates<br />

9


................................................................................................................................................................................................................... SNAPSHOT!<br />

Snapshot!<br />

CATCH UP ON ALL THE LATEST<br />

NEWS FROM THE FAST-MOVING<br />

& DYNAMIC WORLD OF BEAUTY<br />

BarberPro support charity Look Good Feel Better<br />

BarberPro have teamed up with cancer support charity Look Good Feel Better to curate the It’s All Good<br />

Gift Set, a limited-edition set of award-winning sheet masks, with 10% of the retail price of every sale<br />

donated to the initiative.<br />

Developed for cancer patients, the Look Good Feel Better charity runs confidence workshops, providing<br />

attendees with valuable skills and techniques to better manage the side effects of treatment, using<br />

appropriate products to care for their skin and help promote well-being.<br />

Designed specifically to meet the needs of male skin, BarberPro’s It’s All Good Gift Set includes a<br />

hydrating and calming Post Shave Cooling Mask, a nourishing CBD Oil Infused Mask, and two brightening<br />

Under Eye Masks.<br />

BarberPro aim to raise £30,000 (approximately €35,000) which would provide 600 spaces at Look Good<br />

Feel Better confidence boosting workshops. BarberPro products are available from Flair.<br />

ABT appoints<br />

Student Ambassador<br />

ABT has appointed Martin Widdicombe as ABT<br />

Student Ambassador for the UK and Ireland.<br />

Martin re-joins ABT in the role after a period of<br />

semi-retirement.<br />

As ABT Student Ambassador, Martin will be<br />

coordinating ABT’s engagement with colleges<br />

and training providers across the UK and Ireland.<br />

This will include facilitating student presentations<br />

and communicating the benefits of ABT’s<br />

Student Membership to students studying for<br />

qualifications in beauty, nails, complementary<br />

therapies, hair and barbering, as well as college<br />

lecturers and industry educators.<br />

Commenting on his appointment as ABT<br />

Student Ambassador, Martin Widdicombe says:<br />

“I am delighted to be re-joining ABT as Student<br />

Ambassador, a role I started initially in 2009.<br />

Working with our future generation of beauty<br />

and hair professionals is immensely rewarding,<br />

and having the opportunity to visit colleges and<br />

meet students in person enables ABT to tailor<br />

our Student Membership to meet their needs as<br />

well as offer guidance and support as they look<br />

to forge successful careers.”<br />

Dave Horton, ABT Director, adds:<br />

“We’re very happy to have Martin back in<br />

the role of ABT Student Ambassador, a role<br />

he excelled in previously. Despite his time in<br />

semi-retirement, Martin still has a wealth of<br />

knowledge to pass onto the students he meets<br />

during his college visits, and we look forward<br />

to him reconnecting with college lecturers and<br />

introducing himself to new beauty and hair<br />

schools across the UK and Ireland.”<br />

ABT Student Membership is available to<br />

all beauty, nails, complementary therapy<br />

and hairdressing students and includes a<br />

comprehensive insurance package through<br />

Catlin Insurance (UK) Ltd which includes up<br />

to €6.5 million Professional Treatment Risks<br />

insurance, €6.5 million Public Liability insurance<br />

and €6.5 million Product Liability insurance for<br />

students’ Case Study work or for other work<br />

prior to qualification.<br />

For information on ABT Student Membership,<br />

visit www.abtinsurance.ie or email Martin<br />

Widdicombe at martin@abtinsurance.co.uk<br />

11


................................................................................................................................................................................................................... SNAPSHOT!<br />

Bioglitter reveal first plastic<br />

free iridescent glitter<br />

Ronald Britton Ltd, creators of the world’s first plastic-free<br />

glitter, has developed Bioglitter Pure Opal, an iridescent<br />

glitter that is 100% plastic-free.<br />

The iridescent glitter is a new effect within the Bioglitter<br />

Pure product family, and has a reflective and shimmer quality,<br />

which, up until this point has been impossible to achieve in a<br />

microplastic-free glitter.<br />

To make Bioglitter products plastic-free, Ronald Britton<br />

Ltd use a special form of cellulose, unique to the company,<br />

which has passed independent tests including TÜV, Austria’s<br />

‘OK Biodegradable Water’ Certification, which guarantees<br />

biodegradation in natural, freshwater environments.<br />

NSI recognised for beauty<br />

training excellence<br />

NSI Hair, Nail and <strong>Beauty</strong> were amongst the winners at the third<br />

annual <strong>Irish</strong> <strong>Beauty</strong> Industry Awards 2019, held at The Crowne<br />

Plaza Hotel Dublin Airport.<br />

NSI scooped Best Training Academy of the Year whilst NSI<br />

trainer, Gemma McCarthy of Gemini <strong>Beauty</strong> in Dublin, picked up<br />

the Best Nail Technician award.<br />

Other notable winners included Touch & Glow in Carrickmacross<br />

(<strong>Beauty</strong> Therapist of the Year), and The Wicklow Street Clinic in<br />

Dublin (Aesthetic Clinic of the Year), and Aqua Spa in Cork (Day<br />

Spa of the Year).<br />

Clean beauty popularity<br />

continues to rise<br />

The growth of the “clean” beauty movement is continuing, with new<br />

research showing that brands are proactively launching new lines to<br />

meet consumer demand for ethical and sustainable products.<br />

The report by social media analytics and influencer marketing agency<br />

Preen.Me analyses how the consumer’s voice on social media has the<br />

power to drive real change in the beauty industry.<br />

According to Preen.Me, a “clean” product is defined as one with<br />

ingredients that are demonstrably safe for human use.<br />

The report, The Clean Side Of Mica: A White Paper On Sustainability<br />

In <strong>Beauty</strong> and Responsible Ingredient Sourcing, analysed 1.8 million<br />

Instagram posts and 654 Instagram hashtags between October 2018<br />

and <strong>March</strong> 2019, along with industry sources, consumer surveys, and<br />

influencer focus groups to measure the consumer hunger for change.<br />

According to the report, the clean beauty conversation shows a 62%<br />

growth rate and a 24% retention rate over the examined six-month<br />

period. These statistics overshadow the popular animal-free, ecofriendly,and<br />

natural and organic conversations; animal-free grew only<br />

9% while retaining only 12% of consumers over the same time period.<br />

The research showed that most consumers (94%) make their clean<br />

beauty choice by reading product labels to check ingredients.<br />

The report looks at the sustainable beauty conversation, focusing on<br />

Mica, using the ingredient as an example of responsible sourcing within<br />

the clean movement by analysing “clean” Mica that is ethically sourced<br />

and fully transparent.<br />

It highlights key activities in the clean beauty space including effect<br />

pigment producer, Colors & Effects, a brand of BASF; <strong>Beauty</strong>counter,<br />

a pioneering clean beauty brand, and Ronald Britton, creators of the<br />

world’s first plastic free glitter, Bioglitter ® .<br />

15


SNAPSHOT!....................................................................................................................................................................................................................<br />

NSI Hair, Nail & <strong>Beauty</strong><br />

appoint new manager<br />

NSI Hair, Nail and <strong>Beauty</strong> has welcomed Sandra<br />

Masterson to the team as Manager.<br />

With over 20 years’ experience in the beauty industry,<br />

from working as a therapist to owning and running her<br />

own business, Sandra has experienced the beauty<br />

business first hand.<br />

She aims to help NSI customers get the products,<br />

treatments and training that will help successfully drive<br />

their business into <strong>2020</strong>.<br />

Based in Swords, Co. Dublin, NSI Hair, Nail and <strong>Beauty</strong><br />

offer a wide variety of professional beauty and hair<br />

products and training from leading brands including NSI,<br />

EzFlow, Ardell, Elite Brow, Kalentin amongst others.<br />

Phorest host 6th annual<br />

Salon Owners Summit<br />

In excess of 500 hair and beauty salon owners from across the<br />

world attended this year’s Phorest Salon Owners Summit, held in<br />

Dublin recently.<br />

The Summit, the sixth annual event, offered an educational platform<br />

for hair and beauty business owners, aiming to provide them with<br />

the tools and insights for their businesses to reach their potential.<br />

The theme for the <strong>2020</strong> event was ‘Create a <strong>2020</strong> Vision for<br />

your Salon’.<br />

During the two-day event, delegates enjoyed a line-up of ten guest<br />

speakers, sharing their knowledge and experience of the beauty<br />

and hair industries. In addition, organiser Phorest held the Inside<br />

Phorest - The Future of Technology for the Salon Industry event,<br />

looking at all things tech and sharing the latest developments of the<br />

Phorest cloud-based salon software.<br />

Phorest will host its seventh annual Salon Owners Summit in 2021.<br />

New clinic fuses <strong>Irish</strong><br />

skincare with K-<strong>Beauty</strong><br />

Akrona Aesthetics, a new skin clinic, has opened in<br />

Dublin’s Fitzwilliam Street Upper.<br />

Akrona offers non-invasive treatments fusing<br />

<strong>Irish</strong> skincare and Korean technology including<br />

mesotherapy with LED light, heated Lava Stone<br />

massage, Ayurvedic herbal body scrub with Marma<br />

Therapy and Megawhite Teeth Whitening.<br />

The clinic aims to offer cutting-edge solutions for<br />

anti-ageing, wrinkles, acne and many other facial<br />

aesthetic treatments all underneath the banner of<br />

holistic remedies.<br />

Photo by Sam Boal of Photocall Ireland.<br />

16


<strong>Beauty</strong>: New Products.............................................................................................................................................................<br />

Tinted Body Lotion<br />

formulated for paler skins<br />

Alabaster have launched a new body make-up for those with<br />

a naturally paler skin tone who aren’t fans of fake tans.<br />

Alabaster Tinted Body Lotion is available in two multi-tasking<br />

shades providing light-medium coverage of bruises, scars and<br />

spots. With buildable coverage so you can hide as much of<br />

your natural colour as you like, the lotion stays put with a light<br />

dusting of translucent powder.<br />

“Bouncing lots of light off pale skin is a key cosmetic need, as<br />

it visually slims pale skin. Also, because there’s little melanin<br />

to cover flaws, pale skin can be more transparent and show<br />

veins and flaws more easily. So, creating opacity is another<br />

way to create the ideal pale skin,” say the brand.<br />

The lotion is glitter and shimmer free, but has a high gloss<br />

non-oily effect to offer a three-dimensional shine.<br />

Kind to skin, ingredients include hyaluronate, rich emollients<br />

and botanical extracts used in Chinese Medicine.<br />

The Alabaster brand has been established by Dr Esther Coats<br />

who has spent years developing expertise in the pigmentation,<br />

optics and dermatological needs of pale skin.<br />

Alabaster: www.alabasterskin.com<br />

Ultralight laser offers 30<br />

different treatment options<br />

Part of Quanta System’s Q-Plus Evo range, the Ultralight is the<br />

only Nd:YAG laser system available on the market with 1064 +<br />

532 nm technologies, both Q-Switched and long pulsed.<br />

This laser platform houses an incredible 30 applications, making<br />

it the go-to system for clinics looking to offer a comprehensive<br />

menu of skin treatments.<br />

The system’s IPL 1064 SP treats Acne Vulgaris, Couperose<br />

skin, active Rosacea and Ephelides, whilst 1064 LP technology<br />

is effective for hair removal on all skin types.<br />

The platform’s 2940 QS Fractional technology treats atrophic<br />

Acne scars on all skin types, Ice Pick scars, surgical trauma<br />

scars, Fibroma, Keloids, and Seborrhoea Keratosis.<br />

QS 1064 532 OP is effective for the treatment of Café au Lait<br />

spots, Cutaneous Lesions, Dysvhromia, Solar Lentigo, Naves<br />

Spillus, and Vascular Venus Lake.<br />

Telangiectasias, Spider Nevi, Reticular Veins, and Cherry<br />

Angioma are treated by the Ultralight’s 1064 LP Burst Pulse<br />

technology, whilst 2940 Full Spot treats warts, skin tags,<br />

verruca, ablation of soft tissue, Striae, and stretch marks.<br />

QS Fractional laser delivers Collagen Induction on skin up to<br />

Fitzpatrick Scale VI, as well as skin texture improvement and<br />

pore minimising.<br />

For tattoo removal, QS 1064 532 technology is effective on<br />

black, red, orange, purple, pink and violet pigments.<br />

Advanced Esthetics Solutions: +44 (0) 29 2023 1228 /<br />

www.advancedestheticssolutions.co.uk<br />

Benefits of bee propolis & honey<br />

prevent premature ageing<br />

Apivita have introduced Radiant Serum to their Bee Radiant collection<br />

of skincare.<br />

The Bee Radiant line is formulated with Greek Wild Rose Hip infusion,<br />

with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and moisturising abilities, along<br />

with Orange stem cells to increase collagen and elastin production.<br />

In addition, patented Propolis extract offers additional antioxidant<br />

properties, and Shea Butter, Honey and Hyaluronic acid hydrate<br />

the skin.<br />

The new serum reduces the appearance of wrinkles and prevents them<br />

forming, protecting skin against environmental aggressors to prevent<br />

premature ageing.<br />

Apivita: www.cosmeticsonline.ie<br />

22


.............................................................................................................................................................<strong>Beauty</strong>: New Products<br />

Dermalogica reveal<br />

Biolumin-C Eye Serum<br />

Dermalogica have launched Biolumin-C Eye Serum to gently<br />

exfoliate, brighten and firm skin on the delicate eye area.<br />

Applied under the eye and along the orbital bone morning<br />

and evening, the serum tackles the signs of ageing caused by<br />

smiling, frowning and looking at screens.<br />

Formulated with Vitamin C Complex to fight oxidative stress<br />

as well as brighten and firm, Dermalogica’s Biolumin-C Eye<br />

Serum also features Arjun Tree Extract, rich in polyphenols,<br />

to boost skin’s resilience and Micro-Algae extract to energise,<br />

smooth and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.<br />

In addition, Tremella Mushroom locks in moisture and<br />

supports skin resistance, antioxidant-rich Salvia Hispanica<br />

(Chia Seed)Oil moisturises, and Poria Mushroom reveals skin’s<br />

natural luminosity.<br />

Dermalogica: weare.dermalogica.co.uk<br />

Skin firming & toning<br />

during & after pregnancy<br />

Mustela has launched its Bust Firming Serum, specially<br />

formulated for the décolletage area of the bust, neck<br />

and neckline of new and expectant mothers.<br />

The serum supports for a firmer, more toned skin<br />

with a unique combination of Avocado peptides<br />

which reinforces skin elasticity; Centella asiatica<br />

which tones the skin for an intense firming effect; and<br />

Elastoregulator ® , a natural ingredient which tones the<br />

skin and increases elasticity to improve resistance to<br />

variations in breast volume.<br />

Mustela: www.mustela.com<br />

Treat Mum with <strong>Beauty</strong>Pro’s<br />

Sheet Mask gift sets<br />

Ahead of Mother’s Day, <strong>Beauty</strong>Pro have introduced the Restore &<br />

Renew and Hand & Foot Renewal sets.<br />

<strong>Beauty</strong>Pro’s Restore & Renew Set features a selection of<br />

products for an indulgent at-home facial treatment, to purify skin<br />

and boost the complexion, including a Rejuvenating Sheet Mask,<br />

a Nourishing Sheet Mask, a Detoxifying Mask, Eye Therapy<br />

Masks, and a Black Diamond Peel-off Mask.<br />

The Hand & Foot Renewal Set (pictured) offers an invigorating<br />

foot peel with nourishing gloves and booties to moisturise hands<br />

and feet. The set includes a Foot Therapy Mask, a Hand Therapy<br />

Mask, and a Foot & Callus Peel Mask.<br />

Flair: 1890 564 040 / www.flair.ie<br />

23


<strong>Beauty</strong>: New Products.............................................................................................................................................................<br />

Noon Skincare offers exclusive<br />

DermShield care during peels<br />

NOON Aesthetics paraceutical skincare line offers an extensive range<br />

of professional peels featuring high concentrations of active ingredients<br />

yet without the irritation, redness or discomfort often associated with<br />

such treatments.<br />

This is thanks to the brand’s exclusive DermShield technology, which<br />

selectively suppresses burning, tingling and itching sensations, as well<br />

as erythema and oedema (swelling) of the skin, side effects normally<br />

associated with the application of acids used in chemical peels.<br />

DermShield technology works by supressing neurogenic<br />

inflammation, caused when a chemical peel is applied to the skin. A<br />

type C nociceptor in the skin detects the skin’s pH level, similar to<br />

nerves that detect pain. When a chemical peel is applied to the skin,<br />

a signal is sent to the type C nociceptor, the mast cells, the spine<br />

and brain. As the signal passes through blood vessels, they expand<br />

causing redness. The higher the concentration of peel applied to the<br />

skin, the more the vessels expand and swelling occurs, whilst Mast<br />

cells release histamine, the result being neurogenic inflammation.<br />

By blocking neurogenic inflammation, NOON Aesthetics DermShield<br />

technology prevents any tingling, burning, itching, redness and<br />

swelling, making treatments more accessible and pleasant for<br />

your clients.<br />

NOON Aesthetics products are suitable for treating ageing, sun<br />

damage, hyperpigmentation, acne and other skin concerns.<br />

NOON Skincare Educator, Katey McTavish, says:<br />

“NOON Aesthetics will give you the tools to deliver some astounding<br />

and life changing results through unique delivery and formulations of<br />

chemical peeling and homecare so you can have confidence in your<br />

treatments and reap the benefits of this amazing line.<br />

“We are excited to be at <strong>Irish</strong> <strong>Beauty</strong> with these outstanding products<br />

and have upcoming workshops throughout in <strong>2020</strong> to showcase what<br />

NOON Aesthetics has to offer you and your patients.”<br />

Advanced Esthetics Solutions: +44 (0) 29 2023 1228 /<br />

www.advancedestheticssolutions.co.uk<br />

Boost daily skincare<br />

with retinol oil<br />

HoF Retinol Anti-Aging Facial Oil multiplies<br />

the effectiveness of any skincare regimen<br />

and improves the way the skin appears,<br />

day and night.<br />

Offering ultra-light all day hydration, just<br />

apply two to three drops before any of<br />

your Retinol treatments, or recommend<br />

clients blend with their daily moisturiser<br />

or foundation for a visible radiance.<br />

Hennessy Hair & <strong>Beauty</strong> Supplies:<br />

021 434 3436 / www.hennessyhb.ie<br />

Lift & brighten the<br />

delicate eye area<br />

Éminence Organic Skincare have introduced<br />

Marine Flower Peptide Eye Cream, formulated<br />

to reduce the signs of ageing around the<br />

delicate eye area.<br />

A versatile cream, it offers long-lasting<br />

hydration which helps to improve the skin’s<br />

appearance; results show that collagen density<br />

in skin is doubled to lift and fill wrinkles, whilst<br />

dark circles and puffiness are minimised as the<br />

eye area is revitalised.<br />

Key ingredients include Smart Collagen+<br />

Complex, formulated from Algae extract,<br />

botanical collagen and Bulbine Leaf juice,<br />

delivering antioxidants to the skin and inhibiting<br />

collagen breakdown. Botanical peptides from<br />

Rice protein help increase ATP synthesis and<br />

metabolism for healthy skin cell turnover,<br />

whilst Red Algae extract protects against<br />

photo-ageing. Botanical Hyaluronic acid from<br />

Beetroot smooths and plumps skin and helps<br />

to maintain long-lasting hydration.<br />

Éminence Ireland: 01 677 7962 /<br />

www.eminence.ie<br />

24


.............................................................................................................................................................<strong>Beauty</strong>: New Products<br />

Hydrate & nourish<br />

skin with new Hydra<br />

Perfection collection<br />

Dibi Milano has launched its new Hydra Perfection range of<br />

facial skincare, designed to hydrate with nutrients to nourish<br />

skin in any climatic condition, tackling issues of dehydration<br />

and leaving a radiant complexion.<br />

Andrea O’Donnell, National Educator - <strong>Beauty</strong> Division at Xpert<br />

Professional, outlines the new range:<br />

“The Dibi Milano Hydra Perfection range comprises: Extreme<br />

Hydra Gel, Extreme Hydration Cream, Extreme Hydration<br />

Concentrate and Extreme eye contour Hydration Kit.<br />

“All of the products contain some Hyaluronic Acid - which is<br />

a naturally-occurring substance in the skin that is renowned<br />

for its remarkable capacity to attract and hold onto 1000x its<br />

weight in moisture enabling it to plump, hydrate and improve<br />

superficial wrinkles. And, in fact, all the Dibi Milano ranges<br />

contain large molecules of Hyaluronic Acid along with youth<br />

peptides to continue to hydrate and protect the skin from<br />

external aggression as part of our anti-aging method. The<br />

Extreme Hydration Concentrate contains the highest content<br />

of Hyaluronic Acid than any other Dibi Milano product. It<br />

has large and small molecules of Hyaluronic Acid to prevent<br />

dehydration and treat dehydration. It also uses a complex of<br />

active ingredients to stimulate your natural Hyaluronic Acid<br />

within the skin.”<br />

Xpert Professional: 086 418 3514 / www.dibimilano.ie<br />

ishga launches<br />

‘Mum to be Massage’<br />

A new pregnancy massage treatment has been launched<br />

by organic seaweed skincare brand, ishga. The ‘Mum to<br />

be Massage’ incorporates a luxurious, relaxing full body<br />

massage with nurturing, healing organic oils.<br />

The treatment aims to soothe aches and pains and general<br />

muscle fatigue often experienced during pregnancy, as well<br />

as easing leg cramps and reducing water retention and<br />

puffiness in addition to being relaxing and calming whilst<br />

promoting sleep.<br />

The ‘Mum to be Massage’ focuses on the back, hips,<br />

thighs and calves, and uses ishga’s Nurturing Oil featuring<br />

Jojoba, Thistle, Almond and Rose Geranium oil to hydrate<br />

the skin and improve elasticity, reducing stretch marks.<br />

The 60-minute massage is suitable after the first trimester<br />

of pregnancy, and uses gentle but long, slower therapeutic<br />

strokes with medium pressured.<br />

ishga: https://uk.ishga.com/<br />

25


<strong>Beauty</strong>: New Products.............................................................................................................................................................<br />

Lipofirm MED+ complete face<br />

& body platform launches<br />

The Lipofirm MED+ is a complete face and body platform with the<br />

power of synergized technologies for personalised treatment plans.<br />

The system is effective for the treatment of inch loss, body<br />

contouring, cellulite reduction, face and body skin tightening, dermal<br />

volumizing, reducing pigmentation, and skin resurfacing.<br />

Technologies harnessed within the Lipofirm MED+ include Trilipo,<br />

TriPollar ® with DMA, TriFractional Radio Frequency (RF),<br />

and Voluderm.<br />

TriPollar ® triggers the regeneration of collagen and elastin fibres by<br />

delivering focussed RF energy inducing controlled heating of the<br />

deep dermis. DMA - or Dynamic Muscle Activation - delivers noninvasive<br />

stimulation of the superficial musculoaponeurotic system<br />

(SMAS) for toning and lifting creating a ‘face lift’ effect.<br />

TriFractional RF resurfaces and renews the skin though the<br />

wound healing process, resulting in an improvement in skin texture.<br />

Voluderm activates the body’s natural healing process by applying<br />

RF assisted thermal ultra-thin electrode ablation followed by<br />

galvanic current generating a non-thermal effect to create controlled<br />

micro wounds in the skin encouraging the generation of new and<br />

healthy skin.<br />

Treatments using the Lipofirm MED+ deliver visible immediate and<br />

long-term results with minimal discomfort and no downtime.<br />

Advanced Esthetics Solutions: +44 (0) 29 2023 1228 /<br />

www.advancedestheticssolutions.co.uk<br />

Soothing yet effective<br />

Aloe Vera wax beads launch<br />

Waxing specialists Rica have introduced Aloe Vera Hard<br />

Wax Beads.<br />

This no strip wax is suitable for use on all hair types, and<br />

offers nutritive and protective actions on skin.<br />

It is formulated with Aloe Vera extract, renowned for its<br />

nourishing, calming and soothing action on skin.<br />

To complement the wax, Rica have also introduced an Aloe<br />

Vera After Wax Lotion. In addition to Aloe Vera extract, the<br />

lotion includes Sweet Almond oil to soothe skin, Jojoba<br />

oil to replenish skin with proteins and nutrients, Vitamin E<br />

to protect the surface of the skin, and UV filters to protect<br />

sensitive skin from harmful rays.<br />

Hennessy Hair & <strong>Beauty</strong> Supplies: 021 434 3436 /<br />

www.hennessyhb.ie<br />

Ampoules stimulate skin’s<br />

collagen & fibroblast activity<br />

HoF’s Collagen Pyruvate ampoules have been created to<br />

stimulate collagen synthesis and fibroblast activity within the<br />

skin, for use within professional anti-ageing treatments.<br />

Available in a set of 10 x 2ml ampoules, the formulation<br />

improves the elasticity of and hydration levels within the skin.<br />

What’s more, it accelerates lipolysis, making it an effective<br />

ingredient in anti-cellulite cocktails, and is also of benefit in<br />

stretch mark, hair loss and flaccidity treatments.<br />

Hennessy Hair & <strong>Beauty</strong> Supplies: 021 434 3436 /<br />

www.hennessyhb.ie<br />

26


.............................................................................................................................................................<strong>Beauty</strong>: New Products<br />

Boost skin hydration<br />

with Hyaluronic<br />

acid serum<br />

Novexpert have introduced Booster Serum<br />

with Hyaluronic Acid, created for daily use to<br />

plump and smooth skin without the need for<br />

injectable treatments.<br />

Suitable for all skin types but especially<br />

those experiencing dehydration, and for<br />

year round use, the serum is formulated<br />

from four different sizes of 100% pure and<br />

natural Hyaluronic acid, which penetrate all<br />

surfaces of the skin for intense moisturisation.<br />

According to Novexpert, a single bottle<br />

of serum contains the equivalent of 20<br />

Hyaluronic acid injections.<br />

In addition to intensely dehydrated skin, the<br />

serum is also effective on before/after lipofilling,<br />

on tired skin, stressed or sagging skin,<br />

for scar healing, and on oily skin looking for an<br />

“oil-free” anti-ageing product.<br />

The serum can be applied alone or under a<br />

regular moisturising cream, using two to six<br />

drops moisturised into the face in the morning<br />

and /or evening.<br />

Novexpert: www.cosmeticsonline.ie<br />

Streak-free tanning is Elite<br />

Elite Tan is a superior spray tan that is moisture-enriched with<br />

Propylene Glycol.<br />

Classed as a humectant, Propylene Glycol draws water from<br />

the atmosphere to the skin’s surface, as well as enhances the<br />

delivery of actives.<br />

Along with Aloe Vera extract, the tan’s formulation features<br />

Erythulose (0.5%) and a DHA synergistic tanning system which<br />

aids against streaking, ensuring it delivers an instant bronzed<br />

glow, long-lasting colour, and skin-friendly moisturisation.<br />

Elite Tan is available in 7% and 10% DHA.<br />

NSI Hair Nail and <strong>Beauty</strong>: 01 840 9124 /<br />

www.nailandbeauty.ie<br />

New Biosmetics Lash<br />

Tint Display launches<br />

Exclusive to Hennessy’s, Biosmetics Tint & Lash<br />

System have introduced a Professional Tint Display.<br />

The Biosmetics Tint and Lash Lift System is gentle<br />

on eyelashes, and can be combined with the brand’s<br />

eyelash perm. Available in nine shades, the tint will<br />

last up to eight weeks.<br />

The new display includes nine Biosmetics 20ml<br />

Tints, a Biosmetics Tint Remover, Eye Make-up<br />

Remover Foam, Relaxing Eye Cream, Cream<br />

Developer 3%, Protecting Papers, two Tint Brushes,<br />

and two Tinting Dishes.<br />

Hennessy Hair & <strong>Beauty</strong> Supplies: 021 434 3436<br />

/ www.hennessyhb.ie<br />

27


<strong>Beauty</strong>: Brow Treatments........................................................................................................................................................<br />

Image courtesy of RefectoCil / Salon System<br />

30


....................................................................................................................................................... <strong>Beauty</strong>: Brow Treatments<br />

Lamination, bespoke colouring and fluffy<br />

finishes are set to be big in brows for <strong>2020</strong>.<br />

Brow treatments have been big business over the last<br />

decade, with myriad professional treatments and products<br />

developed to shape and tame unruly hairs, thicken sparse<br />

brows, and help clients achieve eyebrows that frame the fame.<br />

As we enter a new decade, the thirst for beautiful brows shows<br />

no signing of stopping, with Brow Lamination just one of the<br />

latest bespoke salon treatments to hit the market.<br />

“Brow treatments are more popular than ever before - everyone<br />

wants their brows to look on point all the time,” says Natalie<br />

Piper, Business Development Manager at The Eyelash Design<br />

Company who developed the Hi Brow Lamination treatment.<br />

“Brows shape the face and accentuate features; this is why<br />

clients are looking for treatments to perfect their brows - and so<br />

they don’t have to worry about styling them into place every day.<br />

The need to streamline time spent on everyday beauty routines<br />

has pushed the development of new treatments with low<br />

maintenance results.”<br />

“The continued boom in lash and brow treatments has meant<br />

there has never been a better or more important time for<br />

salons to have a full treatment repertoire,” advise Hive of<br />

<strong>Beauty</strong>. “Indeed, according to Google’s ‘Year in Search’, Brow<br />

Lamination was one of the top ten beauty searches in 2019, with<br />

popularity of brow lamination and lash lift treatments showing no<br />

sign of slowing down in <strong>2020</strong>.”<br />

“Every make-up consultation should include tips on how to<br />

achieve a great brow – it helps to frame the eyes and complete<br />

the look,” says Caron Lee, Brow by Mii expert. “Clients are<br />

becoming extremely passionate about brows and are keen to<br />

seek a skilled therapist to give them the results they require. If<br />

a client loves their results they’re more likely to be loyal to your<br />

salon, allowing you to entice them to try other services.”<br />

<strong>2020</strong> brow trends<br />

Lisa Stone, Brow Expert and Salon System Educator, believes<br />

bold brows will still be popular this year, but agrees that ‘perfect’<br />

brows will be redefined. “Today’s current trend is big, bold,<br />

strong brows, this style has dominated 2019 and we will see<br />

it continue into <strong>2020</strong>, but there will be a slight softening to the<br />

big, bold strong brow with a little more ‘texture’ and ‘fluffy’ less<br />

block look and more ‘natural’, enhancing colour to correct and<br />

disguise,” she says.<br />

“On the <strong>2020</strong> spring catwalks we spotted natural brows with soft<br />

3D definition, described as the ‘shadow-effect brow’. While the<br />

‘dewy brow’ also stood out on the runways, a wet-look glossy<br />

brow that calls for wax-finish formulas and generous layers of<br />

clear brow gel,” adds Caron.<br />

One of the new treatments for creating softer, fluffier yet fuller<br />

brows is of course Brow Lamination. “Brow Lamination is<br />

currently the most requested beauty treatment,” explains Natalie.<br />

“The service realigns brow hairs into shape, adding fullness and<br />

definition. This only takes around 45 - 60 minutes and is the<br />

perfect treatment for someone who has non-uniform brow arches<br />

or lack of brow shape.<br />

“It’s all about a fluffy and full brow look, although some clients opt<br />

for a smart and well-groomed natural version of this look. This is<br />

one of the reasons why Brow Lamination is proving so popular -<br />

with this treatment, brows can be brushed up to be more bold, or<br />

brushed in a more natural style.”<br />

Demand for bespoke coloured brows is also coming to the fore,<br />

Lisa predicts. “Bold, strong brows will continue to dominate the<br />

industry whether that’s intense vivid colour, harmonising hair and<br />

brow colour together, or creating bold fashion statements or a<br />

blonde brow increasingly growing in popularity and prominent on<br />

the catwalks,” she says<br />

Ruth Atkins, Lash Expert and Salon System Educator, agrees:<br />

“For <strong>2020</strong> therapists are really going to be taking brow colouring<br />

to the next level by introducing an average of three tint colours<br />

together, to create a bespoke colour customisation service for<br />

their clients. By analysing the natural cool and warm tones of their<br />

clients, their hair colour, eyes and skin tone, the therapist can<br />

undertake the browista technique by RefectoCil by becoming a<br />

creative colourist for the brows.”<br />

“Brow treatments have always been a popular treatment and<br />

brow services are worth millions in our industry and are continually<br />

growing,” concludes Lisa. “These treatments and trends take your<br />

services to another level offering basic to advanced services…<br />

allowing you to be at the top of your game and have strong<br />

competition on the high street....Keeping up to date with the<br />

trends will stop you from falling behind and losing clients.”<br />

31


<strong>Beauty</strong>: Brow treatments.........................................................................................................................................................<br />

With RefectoCil’s Custom Colour Blending technique,<br />

nine unique brow looks can be created, whether that<br />

be natural or more creative.<br />

To complement the kit, Salon System’s RefectoCil<br />

Browista Creative Colour Workshop ensures correct<br />

colour choices to suit clients’ natural colouring and<br />

features, along with blending, application and aftercare.<br />

Salon System: www.salonsystem.com<br />

Lash eXtend BLX Lamination Brow Fix defines and volumizes<br />

brows, creating a natural, bushy look or a more defined look<br />

similar to microblading.<br />

Hairs are treated with a permanent fluid which changes the<br />

structure of the hair, to fix them in place using various techniques.<br />

BLX Lamination Brow Fix by Lash eXtend is ideal for those with<br />

stiff and untreatable or asymmetrically growing brows.<br />

Creative Academy: 01 429 5122 / www.creativeacademy.ie<br />

Kalentin’s Brow Lamination treatment creates a fluffy yet groomed<br />

brow look inspired by the Russian catwalk.<br />

The treatment enables you to correct the symmetry of brow hair, fixing<br />

it in correct direction of growth. During the treatment, brow hairs are<br />

nourished with active ingredients of vegetable keratin, Chamomile,<br />

Hyaluronic acid and panthenol within Kalentin’s brow lamination<br />

solution, generating softer, shinier and healthier eyebrows.<br />

NSI Hair Nail and <strong>Beauty</strong>: 01 840 9124 / www.nailandbeauty.ie<br />

Mii Cosmetics’ Brow by Mii professional service<br />

blends an extensive range of tint colours to best<br />

match a client’s skin tone and hair colour, using<br />

staged tinting techniques to create more volume<br />

or even out the colour of brows.<br />

In addition, their retail range offers a wide shade<br />

range to enhance natural brow colour; for<br />

example, the new Signature Brow Styler offers<br />

six shades including Auburn, ideal for redheads.<br />

Gerrard International:<br />

www.gerrardinternational.com<br />

32


........................................................................................................................................................ <strong>Beauty</strong>: Brow treatments<br />

Hi Brow Lamination realigns brow hairs into shape, staying<br />

in place for up to eight weeks, adding fullness and definition.<br />

During the treatment, brow hairs are secured into position<br />

using a style fixing product which straightens curved hairs<br />

and ensures symmetry, and stray hairs tidied.<br />

The treatment can be completed with an optional brow tint.<br />

Baam Cosmetics: www.lashperfect.ie<br />

For clients who have experienced disappointing Semi<br />

Permanent Makeup (SPMU) results on eyebrows, the Q<br />

Plus C laser platform offers successful removal.<br />

It utilises Ruby 694nm, Nd: YAG 532 and Nd: YAG 1064<br />

laser wavelengths and multilayer techniques to remove<br />

100% of each colour pigment present in the skin.<br />

Successful removal is achieved in four to six sessions,<br />

with skin treated gently, enabling cover up or further Semi<br />

Permanent Makeup application as soon as three months<br />

post laser removal. The Q Plus C can also be used to<br />

rectify scarring from previous microblading treatments.<br />

Advanced Esthetics Solutions: +44 (0) 29 2023 1228 /<br />

www.advancedestheticssolutions<br />

HD Brows’ BrowSculpt treatment tailors brow<br />

lamination techniques with a HD Brows twist, taming<br />

unruly brows for up to six weeks.<br />

The treatment includes Brow Lamination, which<br />

corrects brow shape setting hairs in place, followed<br />

by Bespoke Brow Tinting using Brow Dyes to mix<br />

a custom colour. The shape of the brows is then<br />

creating using a combination of waxing, threading<br />

and tweezing, and the treatment is concluded by<br />

adding a hair stroke or two.<br />

The <strong>Beauty</strong> School: +44 (0) 2841 753 900 /<br />

www.hdbrows.ie<br />

33


Nails: Latest News...................................................................................................................................................................<br />

Viva Mexico, say OPI this spring<br />

Celebrate the thriving art scene of Ciudad de Mexico (CDMX) with the new<br />

Mexico City Collection by OPI.<br />

Drawing inspiration from the vibrant art and fashion scenes of Mexico City,<br />

12 rich colours encapsulate the palettes of hues the artists of Ciudad de<br />

Mexico are renowned for.<br />

Commenting on the launch, OPI Global Director of Color Collections Jill<br />

Bartoshevic, says:<br />

“With this collection, we looked to Mexico City’s trendsetting street style,<br />

blending of old heritage and new urban feel, and passion and enthusiasm<br />

for art and design. The end result is a fresh spring palette with colours for<br />

everyone including soft pastels, energetic brights, and vivid floral tones.<br />

Telenovela Me About It - a perfect bright pink-purple that we’ve seen<br />

reflected on the spring runways - is sure to be a favourite of the season.”<br />

All colours are available in OPI Nail Lacquer, Infinite Shine and GelColor<br />

formulas, selected colours are also available in OPI Powder Perfection<br />

dipping powders.<br />

Hennessy Hair & <strong>Beauty</strong>: 021 434 3436 / www.hennessyhb.ie<br />

English floral inspiration<br />

for CND’s spring nails<br />

CND have released their spring <strong>2020</strong> colour collection,<br />

English Garden, available in CND Shellac and Vinylux<br />

Weekly Polish.<br />

The collection of six colours incorporate feminine neutrals and<br />

cool pastels, inspired by fresh spring flowers. Shades include<br />

dark neutral Flowerbed Folly, creamy pink Soft Peony; semisheer<br />

white Lady Lilly, bubble gum pink Kiss from a Rose, cooltoned<br />

pink Carnation Bliss, and pastel mint green Topiary.<br />

Commenting on the launch of English Garden, CND<br />

Co-Founder and Style Director, Jan Arnold, says:<br />

“CND English Garden collection feels like the start of spring<br />

in a bottle. It’s a whimsical selection of pastels made for the<br />

season, transporting you to a gorgeous garden getaway.”<br />

Sweet Squared: 01 408 9191 / www.sweetsquared.com<br />

Individual pedi products<br />

for economy & hygiene<br />

Love performing pedicures but fed up of wasting<br />

product? Voesh Individual Spa Pedicure Collection<br />

features individually packaged products with just<br />

the right amounts for a single pedicure, preventing<br />

unnecessary waste.<br />

The four-step treatment of Sea Salt Soak, Sugar<br />

Scrub, Mud Masque and Massage Cream, is<br />

available in nine sensations for clients to choose from,<br />

depending on their mood. Products are enriched with<br />

nutritious ingredients to revive and care for feet.<br />

The individual packaging also means that treatments<br />

are hygienic, with no spatulas or dipping required.<br />

NSI Hair Nail and <strong>Beauty</strong>: 01 840 9124 /<br />

www.nailandbeauty.ie<br />

36


.................................................................................................................................................................. Nails: Latest News<br />

React prep & finish<br />

formulation in one<br />

Following the success of their React base and topcoat products,<br />

Morgan Taylor has launched React Breathable 3-in-1, a base,<br />

treatment and topcoat in one product.<br />

The React Breathable formulation, which includes vitamins C,<br />

B5 and E, cares for nails, creating polymer gaps that allow air to<br />

pass through nail lacquer and which continue through when it’s<br />

also used as a topcoat.<br />

The prep and finish formulation works with any nail lacquer<br />

system, and does not require soaking to remove.<br />

Creative Academy: 01 429 5122 / www.creativeacademy.ie<br />

Dip into Gelish’s<br />

Editor’s Picks collection<br />

Did you know that Gelish’s new Editor’s Picks spring colour collection is<br />

available in Gelish Dip Powder, as well as Gelish Soak-Off Gel Polish and<br />

Morgan Taylor Nail Lacquer?<br />

Gelish Dip Acrylic powder enables you to achieve vivid colour finishes,<br />

easier and faster than applying traditional liquid and powder acrylic.<br />

New Editor’s Picks spring colours in Gelish Dip Powder include Barely<br />

Buff, a palest pink crème; I Speak Chic, a taupe nude crème; Call My<br />

Blush, a soft sheer pink; On Cloud Mine, a sheer peachy pink; Going<br />

Vogue, an antique rose crème, and It’s Your Mauve, a mauve crème.<br />

Creative Academy: 01 429 5122 / www.creativeacademy.ie<br />

TruMatch set to launch<br />

nearly 100 new shades!<br />

Ezflow has launched its TruMatch collection including<br />

matching TruDIP acrylic dip powder, TruGEL gel<br />

polish and TruLAQ long lasting polish.<br />

Available in 48 shades at present, <strong>2020</strong> will see<br />

another 98 shades added to this collection.<br />

Odour-free TruDip allows you to provide a stronger<br />

colour option for weaker nails without having to<br />

apply sculptured nail enhancements. TruGel gel<br />

polish 15ml bottle gives you up to 20 sets of nails,<br />

whilst TruLAQ is a richly pigmented lacquer that lasts<br />

twice as long as a regular polish.<br />

Products can be purchased individually, whilst<br />

TruGEL and TruLAQ are also sold as a Duo,<br />

encouraging retail opportunities.<br />

NSI Hair Nail and <strong>Beauty</strong>: 01 840 9124 /<br />

www.nailandbeauty.ie<br />

37


Nails: Builder Gels..................................................................................................................................................................<br />

Build me up<br />

Today’s choice of builder gels offer strength,<br />

elegance and faster enhancement options for<br />

sculpting and camouflage.<br />

With today’s nail gel products enabling you to create strong,<br />

elegant enhancements with the strength of acrylic but without<br />

the complexity of liquid and powder, many nail techs are<br />

switching to builder gel systems for easier, faster application<br />

times and predictable results.<br />

Gelish Structure Gel improves the look of distressed,<br />

damaged, uneven or troubled nail plates.<br />

It can be worn alone or as a base coat. Its thicker<br />

viscosity enhances the strength of the natural nail,<br />

increasing durability. Structure Gel is also ideal for<br />

filling in ridges and hiding demarcations.<br />

Available in Clear, Translucent Pink and Cover Pink,<br />

the gel is applied from a bottle and can be easily<br />

soaked off.<br />

Creative Academy: 01 429 5122 /<br />

www.creativeacademy.ie<br />

NSI Balance Builder in a Bottle is a hard gel<br />

system in a bottle, delivering the strength of the<br />

traditional NSI Balance Gel System.<br />

Curable under LED and UV lights, this gel can<br />

be used to extend the nail and for natural nail<br />

overlays. With a medium to thick viscosity, use<br />

the gel for easy building of the nail, creating a<br />

slight apex, or to add durability to nails.<br />

NSI Balance Builder in a Bottle is available in<br />

Blush and Clear.<br />

NSI Hair Nail and <strong>Beauty</strong>: 01 840 9124 /<br />

www.nailandbeauty.ie<br />

Bio Sculpture’s Hard Gel (formerly S-Gel)<br />

delivers the strength of acrylic but the<br />

weightlessness and elegance of gel.<br />

Used as the strengthening / finishing layer on<br />

hard nails without flexibility, this gel can be<br />

used to lengthen nails to create long, strong<br />

extensions with a transparent free edge.<br />

Bio Sculpture Hard Gel is self-levelling for<br />

ease of application, and can be used to build<br />

a solid upper arch that shapes easily.<br />

Bio Sculpture Ireland: 01 850 0005 /<br />

www.biosculpture.ie<br />

38


................................................................................................................................................................. Nails: Builder Gels<br />

OPI Axxium Gel System, with its brush-on application,<br />

offers workability and ease of application, delivering<br />

predictable results.<br />

The range includes OPI Axxium Sculpting Gel in Clear,<br />

Soft White, Soft Pink and Opaque Pink, and has a<br />

no-chase viscosity for faster sculpting of strong, yet<br />

flexible and lightweight enhancements. OPI Axxium<br />

Sculpting Gel has superior adhesion for long-lasting<br />

results, and the range of colours enables you to<br />

create natural-looking pink and whites.<br />

Hennessy Hair & <strong>Beauty</strong>: 021 434 3436 /<br />

www.hennessyhb.ie<br />

The GelBottle Inc Builder In A Bottle offer in excess of 15<br />

different builder gel shades in bottle formulations.<br />

These soak-off builder gels, which can also be infilled, create<br />

strong overlays, and strengthen natural nails. Product does not<br />

chip or lift, and nails can be left nude or a coloured gel overlaid.<br />

Curable under UV and LED lamps, a non-wipe GelBottle topcoat<br />

is also available.<br />

The GelBottle Inc: 086 227 1698 / www.thegelbottle.ie<br />

Magpie’s Build Me Up is a super-strong yet lightweight Builder Gel,<br />

that is the stronger sister of the brand’s Give Me Strength Soak Off<br />

Structure Gel. It enables you to create flexible enhancements and<br />

overlays, in five shades: Clear, Naked, Cloud, Blush and Buff.<br />

A baseless gel, so there’s no need to apply a base coat, it can be<br />

used to extend nails with forms or tips. On application, the gel is selflevelling,<br />

and cures in 60 seconds under an LED lamp. Once cured,<br />

enhancements are chip and lift resistant.<br />

The formulation is also free of common allergen, HEMA (2 hydroxy<br />

ethylmethacrylate).<br />

NSI Hair Nail and <strong>Beauty</strong>: 01 840 9124 / www.nailandbeauty.ie<br />

IBD Builder Gel enables you to create nails with<br />

the strength of acrylic but with the clear look of gels.<br />

Wearing naturally on nails, this gel is ideal for tip<br />

overlays as well as sculpting.<br />

Odour-free, once cured in just three minutes (with a<br />

cool cure formula), finished nails have a permanent<br />

high gloss shine<br />

IBD Builder Gel is available in Clear, Pink, White and<br />

Ultra White.<br />

Flair Hair & <strong>Beauty</strong>: www.flair.ie<br />

39


Candice Gardner Writes: Year-round UV protection..................................................................................................................<br />

Dermalogica’s Candice Gardner on<br />

why SPF isn’t just for summer.<br />

Promoting<br />

year-round<br />

UV protection<br />

As we slowly approach spring, the topic of SPF and UV protection will<br />

start to come up more frequently in our clinics and skin centres.<br />

Whether your customers are trying to escape grey skies and cold weather, make<br />

a last quick dash down the slopes whilst there is still snow, or plan for their<br />

annual summer vacation, this conversation should not simply revolve around their<br />

intermittent exposure, but rather that daylight defence is part of everyday good<br />

skin care.<br />

Some would argue that sunscreens on a daily basis are simply not relevant to the<br />

<strong>Irish</strong> climate, except at points during the summer or when travelling abroad. Whilst<br />

intensity of the UV rays penetrating to the earth’s surface will vary with time of year<br />

and your geographic location, it is important to remember that there will always be<br />

some level UV radiation.<br />

The UV Index<br />

The World Health Organisation developed the UV Index to help provide the public<br />

with information about the intensity of the sun, relevant to where they live, so that<br />

they can take adequate precautions when exposed to reduce skin cancer risk.<br />

Since Ireland has a generally low UV Index value of approximately 1-3 during the<br />

winter months, where risk of burning is unlikely in most skins, customers may<br />

believe UV protection is simply not necessary.<br />

Whilst burning increases skin cancer risk significantly, we now understand<br />

that skin damage and skin cancer are not only reliant on burning. Years of<br />

accumulative effect interjected with short bursts of extreme intermittent exposure<br />

during summer and summer holidays results in premature skin ageing and some<br />

surprisingly high skin cancer statistics despite the climate.<br />

Around 5% of UV rays are high intensity UVB rays, responsible for burning skin<br />

and are the main consideration in the UV Index. They may be less prevalent<br />

dependant on the time of year and level of cloud cover, which means most skins<br />

are unlikely to burn at these times.<br />

The other 95%, the UVA rays, have a longer wavelength allowing them<br />

to penetrate deeper into the skin. Prolonged UVA exposure can lead to<br />

hyperpigmentation, wrinkles, and skin cancer, even though there is no burning.<br />

The cumulative effect of UVA damage is what makes it imperative for clients to<br />

wear sunscreen daily.<br />

Candice Gardner is Education Manager – Digital<br />

and Content at The International Dermal Institute<br />

and Dermalogica (www.dermalogica.ie).<br />

40


.................................................................................................................. Candice Gardner Writes: Year-round UV protection<br />

“Prolonged UVA<br />

exposure can lead to<br />

hyperpigmentation,<br />

wrinkles, and skin<br />

cancer, even though<br />

there is no burning”.<br />

HEV or blue light<br />

What about high energy visible light (HEV) or blue light? Whilst we<br />

have always experienced exposure from daylight, the increased use of<br />

computers and smart devices has increased the concerns around free<br />

radical damage and potential for health concerns in the future. High energy<br />

visible light is the part of the light spectrum that sits right next to UV.<br />

The energy produced is lower than that of UVA but can still cause some<br />

generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS).<br />

Early studies suggest that too much blue light may contribute to collagen<br />

degradation, darken hyperpigmentation, especially in deeper skin tones, as<br />

well as trigger inflammation. On the other end of the debate, there is a lot of<br />

good research on the benefits of blue light for treatment of breakouts and<br />

wound healing.<br />

Research is still emerging in this area and we do not yet have sufficient<br />

data collected over time to define accurately the level of exposure required<br />

to cause a specific degree of damage. However, since blue light borders<br />

UVA in the electromagnetic spectrum, some sunscreen filters like zinc oxide<br />

and titanium dioxide can also shield from blue light at the same time as<br />

providing UV protection.<br />

With this in mind, what advice should we provide?<br />

Selecting an SPF relative to your needs<br />

Since prevention is better than cure, including sunscreen as part of your<br />

daily regimen will reduce unwanted skin changes. Protection from skin<br />

cancers and premature ageing requires both UVA and UVB shielding. Whilst<br />

SPF (Sun Protection Factor) provides a measure of protection from UVB<br />

and burning, always recommend a broad-spectrum sunscreen that has<br />

the designated symbol (UVA in a circle) on the packaging to ensure your<br />

product is protecting you from both. UVA screening is far more relevant in<br />

the context of daily and indoor use.<br />

No sunscreen can shield 100% of UV so select SPF relative to your needs.<br />

Here is the relative level of protection based on SPF:<br />

• SPF15 – 93.3% protection<br />

• SPF30 – 96.6% protection<br />

• SPF50 – 97.7% protection<br />

If the product has the UVA symbol then the level of UVA protection<br />

will be directly proportionate to the SPF.<br />

Note that there is only around one percent difference in protection<br />

between SPF30 and SPF50. Labelling regulations prevent a<br />

sunscreen claiming more than SPF50+ as the incremental protection<br />

is negligible and potentially misleading.<br />

Based on skin condition and preference you can select from<br />

chemical or physical sunscreens.<br />

Chemical sunscreens use chemical compounds such as octocrylene<br />

or octinoxate to absorb UV radiation and convert it to heat. This<br />

chemical reaction is innocuous but the increase in heat in the skin is<br />

the reason some skins find chemical sunscreens uncomfortable. The<br />

advantage is that they are invisible on all skins, and water resistant,<br />

making them suitable in lots of situations.<br />

Physical sunscreens work like a mirror to reflect and scatter<br />

damaging UV rays away from the skin. The mineral particles of<br />

titanium dioxide and zinc oxide provide the physical shield and are<br />

generally the preferred choice for sensitised skins and babies. Since<br />

these particles don’t absorb into the skin they can rub off, sweat off<br />

or rinse off easily. Traditionally, they have also been incredibly thick,<br />

chalky formulas that left an annoying and obvious white residue.<br />

Thankfully, there are better options now available.<br />

If you are expecting an extended or high level of exposure, select<br />

a sunscreen and apply generously 30 minutes prior to exposure.<br />

Reapply every two hours.<br />

For everyday layer over your regular moisturiser in the morning or<br />

select a multitasking moisturiser with built in SPF. A single daily<br />

application is sufficient for a day in the office with short bouts of<br />

exposure on the commute or at lunch.<br />

Skin care professionals know that sunscreen is not just for summer,<br />

and with the right education, our customers can make this part of<br />

their year round regimen.<br />

41


Education: News.....................................................................................................................................................................<br />

WHAT’S NEW?<br />

Training, upskilling or looking for a course?<br />

Get the latest news here!<br />

Book your ABT Student<br />

Ambassador visit<br />

Are you a college lecturer who would like to discover how ABT<br />

membership can benefit your students, both as they train with you<br />

and also as they move into employment? If so, a visit from ABT’s<br />

Student Ambassador, Martin Widdicombe, is for you.<br />

ABT Student Membership is available to all beauty, nails,<br />

complementary therapy and hairdressing students and includes a<br />

comprehensive insurance package through Catlin Insurance (UK)<br />

Ltd which includes up to €6.5 million Professional Treatment Risks<br />

insurance, €6.5 million Public Liability insurance and €6.5 million<br />

Product Liability insurance for students’ Case Study work or for<br />

other work prior to qualification.<br />

To arrange Martin to visit your school or college and speak to your<br />

students about the benefits of ABT membership, email him at<br />

martin@abtinsurance.co.uk<br />

Hennessy to offer White<br />

to Brown tanning training<br />

Hennessy Hair & <strong>Beauty</strong> have teamed up with tanning<br />

brand White to Brown to offer training courses for<br />

beginners and advanced tan technicians.<br />

White to Brown offer a full range of sunless tan solutions,<br />

including White to Brown Organic (10% DHA) with ecocertified<br />

DHA and extracts of Vitamin E, Avocado Oil and<br />

organic Aloe Vera. The brand also offers White to Brown<br />

Rapid Tan, an express bronze tan that develops in just one<br />

hour for a light, sunkissed tan.<br />

Hennessy Hair & <strong>Beauty</strong>: 021 434 3436 /<br />

training@hennessyhb.ie<br />

Try Before You Buy with Creative Academy<br />

To celebrate Gelish, PolyGel and Gelish Dip’s success at this year’s Nail Magazine,<br />

NailPro Magazine and Launchpad RCA awards, Creative Academy are offering a<br />

new range of conversion classes in all three systems.<br />

The Try Before You Buy courses are open to Nail Technicians and/or <strong>Beauty</strong><br />

Therapists to enable you to convert to your chosen product range.<br />

After class, students will receive a certificate and will also be able to buy any open<br />

stock they wish in Creative Academy’s store VAT-free (valid on day of training<br />

only). To attend Try Before You Buy PolyGel courses, students must already hold a<br />

qualification in either Gel or Acrylic.<br />

Creative Academy: 01 429 5122 / www.creativeacademy.ie<br />

42


...........................................................................................................................................................................<strong>Beauty</strong> Talk<br />

Emma James, Digital Marketing and Communications<br />

Executive at Flair Hair & <strong>Beauty</strong> Supplies, talks with the<br />

best in the beauty business.<br />

<strong>Beauty</strong> Talk<br />

Michelle Regazzoli Stone is a Make Up Artist<br />

and founder of MRS Makeup, and new<br />

project, MRS Glam, launching in <strong>March</strong>.<br />

Tell us a little bit about yourself…<br />

“I grew up on the Navan Road and went to<br />

the local schools. In second year, I moved to<br />

Mount Sackville…when I left school I started<br />

in Dun Laoghaire College and I completed<br />

a one-year course in Theatrical and Media<br />

Make-up. That was the best year of my life, I<br />

absolutely loved every second of it!<br />

“That was the first year they had ran a<br />

make-up course. Make-up was still relatively<br />

new in Ireland. MAC would have still been<br />

very new in Ireland. That summer, I went<br />

into MAC every single Saturday. I used to<br />

show them my portfolio…I plagued them; I<br />

was so focused on working for them! It paid<br />

off; I got a job with them that August. They<br />

were opening a store in Blanchardstown<br />

that year and the following year they opened<br />

in Dundrum. I was there for both of those<br />

openings which was brilliant experience…<br />

I was with MAC for 10 years! Persistence<br />

is key.”<br />

After a fantastic experience at MAC,<br />

what gave you the push to build your<br />

own business?<br />

“When I was on my second maternity leave,<br />

I was starting to watch social media develop.<br />

I was based in one of my friend’s hair salons<br />

and I was going from two faces on a Friday<br />

and Saturday, to five to eight to ten, and<br />

people were just getting their make-up done<br />

to go out on a Saturday night. I was starting<br />

to see just how much the market was starting<br />

to change because of social media. If you<br />

were going out with the girls on a Saturday<br />

night out you wanted to look glam, smokey<br />

eye and hair blow-dried, because now it was<br />

going to be online.”<br />

Social Media is a massive platform<br />

in the beauty industry, how has this<br />

impacted your business?<br />

“Social media was an absolute game<br />

changer, 100% the catapult for me was flying<br />

over to Ibiza to do the wedding make-up for<br />

Rosanna Davison in June 2014. I had to hire<br />

somebody a month later to look after my<br />

emails and messages because I had so many<br />

enquires. It completely changed everything<br />

for me.”<br />

You are best known for bridal makeup,<br />

celeb clients, magazine and TV<br />

work. How did you break into that<br />

side of the industry?<br />

“When I left MAC, I could see again how<br />

things were changing with the likes of social<br />

media. I went out to Cari’s Closet, into<br />

designers in town, I went to anybody that I<br />

could walk through the door and let them<br />

know who I am and hand them a business<br />

card. Even if they said to me ‘no sorry, not<br />

looking for anybody’ they still rang me back<br />

when they needed somebody. Similar to what<br />

I had done with MAC, I was persistent, I’d<br />

make sure they knew who I was.<br />

“I think with us being such a small location,<br />

it really is about trying to stand out and make<br />

sure people know who you are. I got in with<br />

VIP Magazine and again followed people on<br />

Instagram, reaching out to them sending<br />

messages. A lot of it was free work but it paid<br />

off in the end; I never shied away from doing<br />

something for free because it always came<br />

back as a positive!”<br />

You worked in Essex for a year, tell<br />

me about that...<br />

“I absolutely loved working in Essex, even<br />

though we’re so close to the UK we’re<br />

completely different in every way. Their<br />

studios are warehouses, our studios are<br />

a room. Everything was bigger, it was<br />

incredible. You’re working in bigger teams,<br />

you’re learning from everyone whether it’s the<br />

lighting people, the stylist, photographers and<br />

others; it was invaluable in my experience.<br />

“The stylist would have a lot of input in your<br />

make-up and I wasn’t used to that, but I<br />

really appreciated that they’d come in and<br />

say that the lip needs to be darker or the<br />

contour needs to be stronger.<br />

“What I learned in the UK was to read<br />

the room. If I had of gone in and created<br />

an Instagram make-up – so cut creases,<br />

heavy eyes and too much highlighter – OK<br />

magazine would never work with me again<br />

because it’s not their style. I had to learn to<br />

still be true to my own style and what I create<br />

but also know what the shoot requires.<br />

“I’ll never forget there was one top guy I was<br />

working with for OK magazine and he said I<br />

don’t even have to Photoshop your make-up<br />

it’s incredible. I’ll never forget it! Obviously<br />

with editorial there is always slight tweaks<br />

and edits, so that was such a compliment!”<br />

43

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