Irish Beauty March-April 2020 Issue 144
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<strong>March</strong> & <strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong> <strong>Issue</strong> <strong>144</strong><br />
Why SPF isn’t just<br />
for summer<br />
Oh what<br />
Sculpt &<br />
Camouflage<br />
with Builder Gels<br />
What’s<br />
BIG<br />
a show!in brows<br />
As spring approaches, we reveal the latest<br />
launches, industry innovators and treatment<br />
trends driving the sector at the <strong>Irish</strong> <strong>Beauty</strong> Show.<br />
for <strong>2020</strong>
5
Contact<br />
Publisher<br />
Brett Fairholm<br />
+44 (0) 1480 353 433<br />
brett@irishbeauty.ie<br />
Editor<br />
Melissa Dennis-Casement<br />
melissa@irishbeauty.ie<br />
Design<br />
Darren Hassett<br />
darren@aitireland.com<br />
Advertising & Exhibition Sales<br />
Brett Fairholm<br />
+44 (0) 1480 353 433<br />
brett@irishbeauty.ie<br />
Accounts<br />
Tracey Board<br />
1800 625 179<br />
tracey@aitireland.com<br />
Marketing<br />
Amelia Black<br />
1800 625 179<br />
amelia@aitireland.com<br />
ABT Student Ambassador<br />
Martin Widdicombe<br />
+44 (0) 7854 610089<br />
martin@abtinsurance.co.uk<br />
Subscriptions<br />
1800 625 179<br />
Online<br />
www.irishbeauty.ie<br />
<strong>Irish</strong><strong>Beauty</strong>Show<br />
Official Partners<br />
@<strong>Irish</strong><strong>Beauty</strong>Show<br />
@irishbeautyshow<br />
The publisher has taken all reasonable measures to<br />
ensure the accuracy of the information in <strong>Irish</strong> <strong>Beauty</strong> and<br />
cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions from<br />
any information given in this or previous editions of <strong>Irish</strong><br />
<strong>Beauty</strong> or for any consequences thereof.<br />
Editor's Letter.<br />
Now that <strong>March</strong><br />
is here it means<br />
just one thing –<br />
it’s show time!<br />
Welcome to the<br />
<strong>Irish</strong> <strong>Beauty</strong> Show<br />
issue, packed<br />
with everything<br />
you need to know to get the most out of<br />
your visit.<br />
The <strong>Irish</strong> <strong>Beauty</strong> Show <strong>2020</strong> runs on Sunday<br />
8th and Monday 9th <strong>March</strong> at the RDS,<br />
in association with ABT and <strong>Irish</strong> <strong>Beauty</strong><br />
magazine. If you’ve yet to do so, book your<br />
tickets online at www.irishbeauty.ie, where<br />
you can also plan your visit.<br />
Just flip this issue over to discover your<br />
packed Show Guide, filled with exhibitors’<br />
show offers, details of who’s appearing<br />
on stage, floor plans, guides to this year’s<br />
<strong>Irish</strong> National Make-up, Nail and Body<br />
Paint Tournaments, and of course, a list<br />
of everyone who is exhibiting at the show.<br />
There’s also a handy FAQs section, as well<br />
as our guide to getting the most out of your<br />
show experience.<br />
Inside this issue of <strong>Irish</strong> <strong>Beauty</strong>, we also<br />
showcase the latest beauty, nails and<br />
tanning product launches, as well as<br />
highlight new treatments available to <strong>Irish</strong><br />
salons and spas; now that the spring<br />
season is here there are some fabulous new<br />
releases that we’re super excited about.<br />
You’ll find loads of them at the show!<br />
As you’d expect, the <strong>Irish</strong> <strong>Beauty</strong> team will<br />
be at the show and we’d love to meet you!<br />
Come and visit the team and myself on our<br />
stand, share your ideas on what you’d like<br />
us to feature in the magazine in the future,<br />
and let us show you around our <strong>Irish</strong> <strong>Beauty</strong><br />
website, complete with the latest industry<br />
news, beauty business listings, in-depth<br />
articles and how-tos.<br />
Remember to follow the event on social<br />
media, and like, tag and share your photos<br />
and videos of the <strong>Irish</strong> <strong>Beauty</strong> Show <strong>2020</strong><br />
so we can see who you’ve met, which new<br />
products you’ve discovered and what you’ve<br />
been buying! Find us at @<strong>Irish</strong><strong>Beauty</strong>Show<br />
/ <strong>Irish</strong><strong>Beauty</strong>Show and tag #<strong>Irish</strong><strong>Beauty</strong><br />
#<strong>Irish</strong><strong>Beauty</strong>Show #<strong>Irish</strong><strong>Beauty</strong>Magazine<br />
We’re looking forward to meeting you!<br />
Melissa Dennis-Casement<br />
Editor, <strong>Irish</strong> <strong>Beauty</strong><br />
Contents<br />
30 <strong>Beauty</strong>: Brow Treatments<br />
Lamination, bespoke colouring and fluffy finishes are set<br />
to big in brows for <strong>2020</strong>.<br />
38 Nails: Builder Gels<br />
Today’s choice of builder gels offer strength, elegance and<br />
faster enhancement options for sculpting and camouflage.<br />
40 Candice Gardner Writes:<br />
Year-round UV Protection<br />
Dermalogica’s Candice Gardner on why SPF isn’t just<br />
for summer.<br />
43 <strong>Beauty</strong> Talks<br />
Flair’s Emma James meets Make-up Artist Michelle<br />
Regazzoli Stone, AKA MRS Makeup.<br />
44 <strong>Irish</strong> <strong>Beauty</strong> Show <strong>2020</strong> Preview<br />
Everything you need to know to get the most out of your<br />
visit to this year’s event.<br />
Regulars<br />
11 Snapshot!<br />
22 <strong>Beauty</strong> Product News<br />
36 Nail Products & News<br />
42 Education News & Updates<br />
9
................................................................................................................................................................................................................... SNAPSHOT!<br />
Snapshot!<br />
CATCH UP ON ALL THE LATEST<br />
NEWS FROM THE FAST-MOVING<br />
& DYNAMIC WORLD OF BEAUTY<br />
BarberPro support charity Look Good Feel Better<br />
BarberPro have teamed up with cancer support charity Look Good Feel Better to curate the It’s All Good<br />
Gift Set, a limited-edition set of award-winning sheet masks, with 10% of the retail price of every sale<br />
donated to the initiative.<br />
Developed for cancer patients, the Look Good Feel Better charity runs confidence workshops, providing<br />
attendees with valuable skills and techniques to better manage the side effects of treatment, using<br />
appropriate products to care for their skin and help promote well-being.<br />
Designed specifically to meet the needs of male skin, BarberPro’s It’s All Good Gift Set includes a<br />
hydrating and calming Post Shave Cooling Mask, a nourishing CBD Oil Infused Mask, and two brightening<br />
Under Eye Masks.<br />
BarberPro aim to raise £30,000 (approximately €35,000) which would provide 600 spaces at Look Good<br />
Feel Better confidence boosting workshops. BarberPro products are available from Flair.<br />
ABT appoints<br />
Student Ambassador<br />
ABT has appointed Martin Widdicombe as ABT<br />
Student Ambassador for the UK and Ireland.<br />
Martin re-joins ABT in the role after a period of<br />
semi-retirement.<br />
As ABT Student Ambassador, Martin will be<br />
coordinating ABT’s engagement with colleges<br />
and training providers across the UK and Ireland.<br />
This will include facilitating student presentations<br />
and communicating the benefits of ABT’s<br />
Student Membership to students studying for<br />
qualifications in beauty, nails, complementary<br />
therapies, hair and barbering, as well as college<br />
lecturers and industry educators.<br />
Commenting on his appointment as ABT<br />
Student Ambassador, Martin Widdicombe says:<br />
“I am delighted to be re-joining ABT as Student<br />
Ambassador, a role I started initially in 2009.<br />
Working with our future generation of beauty<br />
and hair professionals is immensely rewarding,<br />
and having the opportunity to visit colleges and<br />
meet students in person enables ABT to tailor<br />
our Student Membership to meet their needs as<br />
well as offer guidance and support as they look<br />
to forge successful careers.”<br />
Dave Horton, ABT Director, adds:<br />
“We’re very happy to have Martin back in<br />
the role of ABT Student Ambassador, a role<br />
he excelled in previously. Despite his time in<br />
semi-retirement, Martin still has a wealth of<br />
knowledge to pass onto the students he meets<br />
during his college visits, and we look forward<br />
to him reconnecting with college lecturers and<br />
introducing himself to new beauty and hair<br />
schools across the UK and Ireland.”<br />
ABT Student Membership is available to<br />
all beauty, nails, complementary therapy<br />
and hairdressing students and includes a<br />
comprehensive insurance package through<br />
Catlin Insurance (UK) Ltd which includes up<br />
to €6.5 million Professional Treatment Risks<br />
insurance, €6.5 million Public Liability insurance<br />
and €6.5 million Product Liability insurance for<br />
students’ Case Study work or for other work<br />
prior to qualification.<br />
For information on ABT Student Membership,<br />
visit www.abtinsurance.ie or email Martin<br />
Widdicombe at martin@abtinsurance.co.uk<br />
11
................................................................................................................................................................................................................... SNAPSHOT!<br />
Bioglitter reveal first plastic<br />
free iridescent glitter<br />
Ronald Britton Ltd, creators of the world’s first plastic-free<br />
glitter, has developed Bioglitter Pure Opal, an iridescent<br />
glitter that is 100% plastic-free.<br />
The iridescent glitter is a new effect within the Bioglitter<br />
Pure product family, and has a reflective and shimmer quality,<br />
which, up until this point has been impossible to achieve in a<br />
microplastic-free glitter.<br />
To make Bioglitter products plastic-free, Ronald Britton<br />
Ltd use a special form of cellulose, unique to the company,<br />
which has passed independent tests including TÜV, Austria’s<br />
‘OK Biodegradable Water’ Certification, which guarantees<br />
biodegradation in natural, freshwater environments.<br />
NSI recognised for beauty<br />
training excellence<br />
NSI Hair, Nail and <strong>Beauty</strong> were amongst the winners at the third<br />
annual <strong>Irish</strong> <strong>Beauty</strong> Industry Awards 2019, held at The Crowne<br />
Plaza Hotel Dublin Airport.<br />
NSI scooped Best Training Academy of the Year whilst NSI<br />
trainer, Gemma McCarthy of Gemini <strong>Beauty</strong> in Dublin, picked up<br />
the Best Nail Technician award.<br />
Other notable winners included Touch & Glow in Carrickmacross<br />
(<strong>Beauty</strong> Therapist of the Year), and The Wicklow Street Clinic in<br />
Dublin (Aesthetic Clinic of the Year), and Aqua Spa in Cork (Day<br />
Spa of the Year).<br />
Clean beauty popularity<br />
continues to rise<br />
The growth of the “clean” beauty movement is continuing, with new<br />
research showing that brands are proactively launching new lines to<br />
meet consumer demand for ethical and sustainable products.<br />
The report by social media analytics and influencer marketing agency<br />
Preen.Me analyses how the consumer’s voice on social media has the<br />
power to drive real change in the beauty industry.<br />
According to Preen.Me, a “clean” product is defined as one with<br />
ingredients that are demonstrably safe for human use.<br />
The report, The Clean Side Of Mica: A White Paper On Sustainability<br />
In <strong>Beauty</strong> and Responsible Ingredient Sourcing, analysed 1.8 million<br />
Instagram posts and 654 Instagram hashtags between October 2018<br />
and <strong>March</strong> 2019, along with industry sources, consumer surveys, and<br />
influencer focus groups to measure the consumer hunger for change.<br />
According to the report, the clean beauty conversation shows a 62%<br />
growth rate and a 24% retention rate over the examined six-month<br />
period. These statistics overshadow the popular animal-free, ecofriendly,and<br />
natural and organic conversations; animal-free grew only<br />
9% while retaining only 12% of consumers over the same time period.<br />
The research showed that most consumers (94%) make their clean<br />
beauty choice by reading product labels to check ingredients.<br />
The report looks at the sustainable beauty conversation, focusing on<br />
Mica, using the ingredient as an example of responsible sourcing within<br />
the clean movement by analysing “clean” Mica that is ethically sourced<br />
and fully transparent.<br />
It highlights key activities in the clean beauty space including effect<br />
pigment producer, Colors & Effects, a brand of BASF; <strong>Beauty</strong>counter,<br />
a pioneering clean beauty brand, and Ronald Britton, creators of the<br />
world’s first plastic free glitter, Bioglitter ® .<br />
15
SNAPSHOT!....................................................................................................................................................................................................................<br />
NSI Hair, Nail & <strong>Beauty</strong><br />
appoint new manager<br />
NSI Hair, Nail and <strong>Beauty</strong> has welcomed Sandra<br />
Masterson to the team as Manager.<br />
With over 20 years’ experience in the beauty industry,<br />
from working as a therapist to owning and running her<br />
own business, Sandra has experienced the beauty<br />
business first hand.<br />
She aims to help NSI customers get the products,<br />
treatments and training that will help successfully drive<br />
their business into <strong>2020</strong>.<br />
Based in Swords, Co. Dublin, NSI Hair, Nail and <strong>Beauty</strong><br />
offer a wide variety of professional beauty and hair<br />
products and training from leading brands including NSI,<br />
EzFlow, Ardell, Elite Brow, Kalentin amongst others.<br />
Phorest host 6th annual<br />
Salon Owners Summit<br />
In excess of 500 hair and beauty salon owners from across the<br />
world attended this year’s Phorest Salon Owners Summit, held in<br />
Dublin recently.<br />
The Summit, the sixth annual event, offered an educational platform<br />
for hair and beauty business owners, aiming to provide them with<br />
the tools and insights for their businesses to reach their potential.<br />
The theme for the <strong>2020</strong> event was ‘Create a <strong>2020</strong> Vision for<br />
your Salon’.<br />
During the two-day event, delegates enjoyed a line-up of ten guest<br />
speakers, sharing their knowledge and experience of the beauty<br />
and hair industries. In addition, organiser Phorest held the Inside<br />
Phorest - The Future of Technology for the Salon Industry event,<br />
looking at all things tech and sharing the latest developments of the<br />
Phorest cloud-based salon software.<br />
Phorest will host its seventh annual Salon Owners Summit in 2021.<br />
New clinic fuses <strong>Irish</strong><br />
skincare with K-<strong>Beauty</strong><br />
Akrona Aesthetics, a new skin clinic, has opened in<br />
Dublin’s Fitzwilliam Street Upper.<br />
Akrona offers non-invasive treatments fusing<br />
<strong>Irish</strong> skincare and Korean technology including<br />
mesotherapy with LED light, heated Lava Stone<br />
massage, Ayurvedic herbal body scrub with Marma<br />
Therapy and Megawhite Teeth Whitening.<br />
The clinic aims to offer cutting-edge solutions for<br />
anti-ageing, wrinkles, acne and many other facial<br />
aesthetic treatments all underneath the banner of<br />
holistic remedies.<br />
Photo by Sam Boal of Photocall Ireland.<br />
16
<strong>Beauty</strong>: New Products.............................................................................................................................................................<br />
Tinted Body Lotion<br />
formulated for paler skins<br />
Alabaster have launched a new body make-up for those with<br />
a naturally paler skin tone who aren’t fans of fake tans.<br />
Alabaster Tinted Body Lotion is available in two multi-tasking<br />
shades providing light-medium coverage of bruises, scars and<br />
spots. With buildable coverage so you can hide as much of<br />
your natural colour as you like, the lotion stays put with a light<br />
dusting of translucent powder.<br />
“Bouncing lots of light off pale skin is a key cosmetic need, as<br />
it visually slims pale skin. Also, because there’s little melanin<br />
to cover flaws, pale skin can be more transparent and show<br />
veins and flaws more easily. So, creating opacity is another<br />
way to create the ideal pale skin,” say the brand.<br />
The lotion is glitter and shimmer free, but has a high gloss<br />
non-oily effect to offer a three-dimensional shine.<br />
Kind to skin, ingredients include hyaluronate, rich emollients<br />
and botanical extracts used in Chinese Medicine.<br />
The Alabaster brand has been established by Dr Esther Coats<br />
who has spent years developing expertise in the pigmentation,<br />
optics and dermatological needs of pale skin.<br />
Alabaster: www.alabasterskin.com<br />
Ultralight laser offers 30<br />
different treatment options<br />
Part of Quanta System’s Q-Plus Evo range, the Ultralight is the<br />
only Nd:YAG laser system available on the market with 1064 +<br />
532 nm technologies, both Q-Switched and long pulsed.<br />
This laser platform houses an incredible 30 applications, making<br />
it the go-to system for clinics looking to offer a comprehensive<br />
menu of skin treatments.<br />
The system’s IPL 1064 SP treats Acne Vulgaris, Couperose<br />
skin, active Rosacea and Ephelides, whilst 1064 LP technology<br />
is effective for hair removal on all skin types.<br />
The platform’s 2940 QS Fractional technology treats atrophic<br />
Acne scars on all skin types, Ice Pick scars, surgical trauma<br />
scars, Fibroma, Keloids, and Seborrhoea Keratosis.<br />
QS 1064 532 OP is effective for the treatment of Café au Lait<br />
spots, Cutaneous Lesions, Dysvhromia, Solar Lentigo, Naves<br />
Spillus, and Vascular Venus Lake.<br />
Telangiectasias, Spider Nevi, Reticular Veins, and Cherry<br />
Angioma are treated by the Ultralight’s 1064 LP Burst Pulse<br />
technology, whilst 2940 Full Spot treats warts, skin tags,<br />
verruca, ablation of soft tissue, Striae, and stretch marks.<br />
QS Fractional laser delivers Collagen Induction on skin up to<br />
Fitzpatrick Scale VI, as well as skin texture improvement and<br />
pore minimising.<br />
For tattoo removal, QS 1064 532 technology is effective on<br />
black, red, orange, purple, pink and violet pigments.<br />
Advanced Esthetics Solutions: +44 (0) 29 2023 1228 /<br />
www.advancedestheticssolutions.co.uk<br />
Benefits of bee propolis & honey<br />
prevent premature ageing<br />
Apivita have introduced Radiant Serum to their Bee Radiant collection<br />
of skincare.<br />
The Bee Radiant line is formulated with Greek Wild Rose Hip infusion,<br />
with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and moisturising abilities, along<br />
with Orange stem cells to increase collagen and elastin production.<br />
In addition, patented Propolis extract offers additional antioxidant<br />
properties, and Shea Butter, Honey and Hyaluronic acid hydrate<br />
the skin.<br />
The new serum reduces the appearance of wrinkles and prevents them<br />
forming, protecting skin against environmental aggressors to prevent<br />
premature ageing.<br />
Apivita: www.cosmeticsonline.ie<br />
22
.............................................................................................................................................................<strong>Beauty</strong>: New Products<br />
Dermalogica reveal<br />
Biolumin-C Eye Serum<br />
Dermalogica have launched Biolumin-C Eye Serum to gently<br />
exfoliate, brighten and firm skin on the delicate eye area.<br />
Applied under the eye and along the orbital bone morning<br />
and evening, the serum tackles the signs of ageing caused by<br />
smiling, frowning and looking at screens.<br />
Formulated with Vitamin C Complex to fight oxidative stress<br />
as well as brighten and firm, Dermalogica’s Biolumin-C Eye<br />
Serum also features Arjun Tree Extract, rich in polyphenols,<br />
to boost skin’s resilience and Micro-Algae extract to energise,<br />
smooth and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.<br />
In addition, Tremella Mushroom locks in moisture and<br />
supports skin resistance, antioxidant-rich Salvia Hispanica<br />
(Chia Seed)Oil moisturises, and Poria Mushroom reveals skin’s<br />
natural luminosity.<br />
Dermalogica: weare.dermalogica.co.uk<br />
Skin firming & toning<br />
during & after pregnancy<br />
Mustela has launched its Bust Firming Serum, specially<br />
formulated for the décolletage area of the bust, neck<br />
and neckline of new and expectant mothers.<br />
The serum supports for a firmer, more toned skin<br />
with a unique combination of Avocado peptides<br />
which reinforces skin elasticity; Centella asiatica<br />
which tones the skin for an intense firming effect; and<br />
Elastoregulator ® , a natural ingredient which tones the<br />
skin and increases elasticity to improve resistance to<br />
variations in breast volume.<br />
Mustela: www.mustela.com<br />
Treat Mum with <strong>Beauty</strong>Pro’s<br />
Sheet Mask gift sets<br />
Ahead of Mother’s Day, <strong>Beauty</strong>Pro have introduced the Restore &<br />
Renew and Hand & Foot Renewal sets.<br />
<strong>Beauty</strong>Pro’s Restore & Renew Set features a selection of<br />
products for an indulgent at-home facial treatment, to purify skin<br />
and boost the complexion, including a Rejuvenating Sheet Mask,<br />
a Nourishing Sheet Mask, a Detoxifying Mask, Eye Therapy<br />
Masks, and a Black Diamond Peel-off Mask.<br />
The Hand & Foot Renewal Set (pictured) offers an invigorating<br />
foot peel with nourishing gloves and booties to moisturise hands<br />
and feet. The set includes a Foot Therapy Mask, a Hand Therapy<br />
Mask, and a Foot & Callus Peel Mask.<br />
Flair: 1890 564 040 / www.flair.ie<br />
23
<strong>Beauty</strong>: New Products.............................................................................................................................................................<br />
Noon Skincare offers exclusive<br />
DermShield care during peels<br />
NOON Aesthetics paraceutical skincare line offers an extensive range<br />
of professional peels featuring high concentrations of active ingredients<br />
yet without the irritation, redness or discomfort often associated with<br />
such treatments.<br />
This is thanks to the brand’s exclusive DermShield technology, which<br />
selectively suppresses burning, tingling and itching sensations, as well<br />
as erythema and oedema (swelling) of the skin, side effects normally<br />
associated with the application of acids used in chemical peels.<br />
DermShield technology works by supressing neurogenic<br />
inflammation, caused when a chemical peel is applied to the skin. A<br />
type C nociceptor in the skin detects the skin’s pH level, similar to<br />
nerves that detect pain. When a chemical peel is applied to the skin,<br />
a signal is sent to the type C nociceptor, the mast cells, the spine<br />
and brain. As the signal passes through blood vessels, they expand<br />
causing redness. The higher the concentration of peel applied to the<br />
skin, the more the vessels expand and swelling occurs, whilst Mast<br />
cells release histamine, the result being neurogenic inflammation.<br />
By blocking neurogenic inflammation, NOON Aesthetics DermShield<br />
technology prevents any tingling, burning, itching, redness and<br />
swelling, making treatments more accessible and pleasant for<br />
your clients.<br />
NOON Aesthetics products are suitable for treating ageing, sun<br />
damage, hyperpigmentation, acne and other skin concerns.<br />
NOON Skincare Educator, Katey McTavish, says:<br />
“NOON Aesthetics will give you the tools to deliver some astounding<br />
and life changing results through unique delivery and formulations of<br />
chemical peeling and homecare so you can have confidence in your<br />
treatments and reap the benefits of this amazing line.<br />
“We are excited to be at <strong>Irish</strong> <strong>Beauty</strong> with these outstanding products<br />
and have upcoming workshops throughout in <strong>2020</strong> to showcase what<br />
NOON Aesthetics has to offer you and your patients.”<br />
Advanced Esthetics Solutions: +44 (0) 29 2023 1228 /<br />
www.advancedestheticssolutions.co.uk<br />
Boost daily skincare<br />
with retinol oil<br />
HoF Retinol Anti-Aging Facial Oil multiplies<br />
the effectiveness of any skincare regimen<br />
and improves the way the skin appears,<br />
day and night.<br />
Offering ultra-light all day hydration, just<br />
apply two to three drops before any of<br />
your Retinol treatments, or recommend<br />
clients blend with their daily moisturiser<br />
or foundation for a visible radiance.<br />
Hennessy Hair & <strong>Beauty</strong> Supplies:<br />
021 434 3436 / www.hennessyhb.ie<br />
Lift & brighten the<br />
delicate eye area<br />
Éminence Organic Skincare have introduced<br />
Marine Flower Peptide Eye Cream, formulated<br />
to reduce the signs of ageing around the<br />
delicate eye area.<br />
A versatile cream, it offers long-lasting<br />
hydration which helps to improve the skin’s<br />
appearance; results show that collagen density<br />
in skin is doubled to lift and fill wrinkles, whilst<br />
dark circles and puffiness are minimised as the<br />
eye area is revitalised.<br />
Key ingredients include Smart Collagen+<br />
Complex, formulated from Algae extract,<br />
botanical collagen and Bulbine Leaf juice,<br />
delivering antioxidants to the skin and inhibiting<br />
collagen breakdown. Botanical peptides from<br />
Rice protein help increase ATP synthesis and<br />
metabolism for healthy skin cell turnover,<br />
whilst Red Algae extract protects against<br />
photo-ageing. Botanical Hyaluronic acid from<br />
Beetroot smooths and plumps skin and helps<br />
to maintain long-lasting hydration.<br />
Éminence Ireland: 01 677 7962 /<br />
www.eminence.ie<br />
24
.............................................................................................................................................................<strong>Beauty</strong>: New Products<br />
Hydrate & nourish<br />
skin with new Hydra<br />
Perfection collection<br />
Dibi Milano has launched its new Hydra Perfection range of<br />
facial skincare, designed to hydrate with nutrients to nourish<br />
skin in any climatic condition, tackling issues of dehydration<br />
and leaving a radiant complexion.<br />
Andrea O’Donnell, National Educator - <strong>Beauty</strong> Division at Xpert<br />
Professional, outlines the new range:<br />
“The Dibi Milano Hydra Perfection range comprises: Extreme<br />
Hydra Gel, Extreme Hydration Cream, Extreme Hydration<br />
Concentrate and Extreme eye contour Hydration Kit.<br />
“All of the products contain some Hyaluronic Acid - which is<br />
a naturally-occurring substance in the skin that is renowned<br />
for its remarkable capacity to attract and hold onto 1000x its<br />
weight in moisture enabling it to plump, hydrate and improve<br />
superficial wrinkles. And, in fact, all the Dibi Milano ranges<br />
contain large molecules of Hyaluronic Acid along with youth<br />
peptides to continue to hydrate and protect the skin from<br />
external aggression as part of our anti-aging method. The<br />
Extreme Hydration Concentrate contains the highest content<br />
of Hyaluronic Acid than any other Dibi Milano product. It<br />
has large and small molecules of Hyaluronic Acid to prevent<br />
dehydration and treat dehydration. It also uses a complex of<br />
active ingredients to stimulate your natural Hyaluronic Acid<br />
within the skin.”<br />
Xpert Professional: 086 418 3514 / www.dibimilano.ie<br />
ishga launches<br />
‘Mum to be Massage’<br />
A new pregnancy massage treatment has been launched<br />
by organic seaweed skincare brand, ishga. The ‘Mum to<br />
be Massage’ incorporates a luxurious, relaxing full body<br />
massage with nurturing, healing organic oils.<br />
The treatment aims to soothe aches and pains and general<br />
muscle fatigue often experienced during pregnancy, as well<br />
as easing leg cramps and reducing water retention and<br />
puffiness in addition to being relaxing and calming whilst<br />
promoting sleep.<br />
The ‘Mum to be Massage’ focuses on the back, hips,<br />
thighs and calves, and uses ishga’s Nurturing Oil featuring<br />
Jojoba, Thistle, Almond and Rose Geranium oil to hydrate<br />
the skin and improve elasticity, reducing stretch marks.<br />
The 60-minute massage is suitable after the first trimester<br />
of pregnancy, and uses gentle but long, slower therapeutic<br />
strokes with medium pressured.<br />
ishga: https://uk.ishga.com/<br />
25
<strong>Beauty</strong>: New Products.............................................................................................................................................................<br />
Lipofirm MED+ complete face<br />
& body platform launches<br />
The Lipofirm MED+ is a complete face and body platform with the<br />
power of synergized technologies for personalised treatment plans.<br />
The system is effective for the treatment of inch loss, body<br />
contouring, cellulite reduction, face and body skin tightening, dermal<br />
volumizing, reducing pigmentation, and skin resurfacing.<br />
Technologies harnessed within the Lipofirm MED+ include Trilipo,<br />
TriPollar ® with DMA, TriFractional Radio Frequency (RF),<br />
and Voluderm.<br />
TriPollar ® triggers the regeneration of collagen and elastin fibres by<br />
delivering focussed RF energy inducing controlled heating of the<br />
deep dermis. DMA - or Dynamic Muscle Activation - delivers noninvasive<br />
stimulation of the superficial musculoaponeurotic system<br />
(SMAS) for toning and lifting creating a ‘face lift’ effect.<br />
TriFractional RF resurfaces and renews the skin though the<br />
wound healing process, resulting in an improvement in skin texture.<br />
Voluderm activates the body’s natural healing process by applying<br />
RF assisted thermal ultra-thin electrode ablation followed by<br />
galvanic current generating a non-thermal effect to create controlled<br />
micro wounds in the skin encouraging the generation of new and<br />
healthy skin.<br />
Treatments using the Lipofirm MED+ deliver visible immediate and<br />
long-term results with minimal discomfort and no downtime.<br />
Advanced Esthetics Solutions: +44 (0) 29 2023 1228 /<br />
www.advancedestheticssolutions.co.uk<br />
Soothing yet effective<br />
Aloe Vera wax beads launch<br />
Waxing specialists Rica have introduced Aloe Vera Hard<br />
Wax Beads.<br />
This no strip wax is suitable for use on all hair types, and<br />
offers nutritive and protective actions on skin.<br />
It is formulated with Aloe Vera extract, renowned for its<br />
nourishing, calming and soothing action on skin.<br />
To complement the wax, Rica have also introduced an Aloe<br />
Vera After Wax Lotion. In addition to Aloe Vera extract, the<br />
lotion includes Sweet Almond oil to soothe skin, Jojoba<br />
oil to replenish skin with proteins and nutrients, Vitamin E<br />
to protect the surface of the skin, and UV filters to protect<br />
sensitive skin from harmful rays.<br />
Hennessy Hair & <strong>Beauty</strong> Supplies: 021 434 3436 /<br />
www.hennessyhb.ie<br />
Ampoules stimulate skin’s<br />
collagen & fibroblast activity<br />
HoF’s Collagen Pyruvate ampoules have been created to<br />
stimulate collagen synthesis and fibroblast activity within the<br />
skin, for use within professional anti-ageing treatments.<br />
Available in a set of 10 x 2ml ampoules, the formulation<br />
improves the elasticity of and hydration levels within the skin.<br />
What’s more, it accelerates lipolysis, making it an effective<br />
ingredient in anti-cellulite cocktails, and is also of benefit in<br />
stretch mark, hair loss and flaccidity treatments.<br />
Hennessy Hair & <strong>Beauty</strong> Supplies: 021 434 3436 /<br />
www.hennessyhb.ie<br />
26
.............................................................................................................................................................<strong>Beauty</strong>: New Products<br />
Boost skin hydration<br />
with Hyaluronic<br />
acid serum<br />
Novexpert have introduced Booster Serum<br />
with Hyaluronic Acid, created for daily use to<br />
plump and smooth skin without the need for<br />
injectable treatments.<br />
Suitable for all skin types but especially<br />
those experiencing dehydration, and for<br />
year round use, the serum is formulated<br />
from four different sizes of 100% pure and<br />
natural Hyaluronic acid, which penetrate all<br />
surfaces of the skin for intense moisturisation.<br />
According to Novexpert, a single bottle<br />
of serum contains the equivalent of 20<br />
Hyaluronic acid injections.<br />
In addition to intensely dehydrated skin, the<br />
serum is also effective on before/after lipofilling,<br />
on tired skin, stressed or sagging skin,<br />
for scar healing, and on oily skin looking for an<br />
“oil-free” anti-ageing product.<br />
The serum can be applied alone or under a<br />
regular moisturising cream, using two to six<br />
drops moisturised into the face in the morning<br />
and /or evening.<br />
Novexpert: www.cosmeticsonline.ie<br />
Streak-free tanning is Elite<br />
Elite Tan is a superior spray tan that is moisture-enriched with<br />
Propylene Glycol.<br />
Classed as a humectant, Propylene Glycol draws water from<br />
the atmosphere to the skin’s surface, as well as enhances the<br />
delivery of actives.<br />
Along with Aloe Vera extract, the tan’s formulation features<br />
Erythulose (0.5%) and a DHA synergistic tanning system which<br />
aids against streaking, ensuring it delivers an instant bronzed<br />
glow, long-lasting colour, and skin-friendly moisturisation.<br />
Elite Tan is available in 7% and 10% DHA.<br />
NSI Hair Nail and <strong>Beauty</strong>: 01 840 9124 /<br />
www.nailandbeauty.ie<br />
New Biosmetics Lash<br />
Tint Display launches<br />
Exclusive to Hennessy’s, Biosmetics Tint & Lash<br />
System have introduced a Professional Tint Display.<br />
The Biosmetics Tint and Lash Lift System is gentle<br />
on eyelashes, and can be combined with the brand’s<br />
eyelash perm. Available in nine shades, the tint will<br />
last up to eight weeks.<br />
The new display includes nine Biosmetics 20ml<br />
Tints, a Biosmetics Tint Remover, Eye Make-up<br />
Remover Foam, Relaxing Eye Cream, Cream<br />
Developer 3%, Protecting Papers, two Tint Brushes,<br />
and two Tinting Dishes.<br />
Hennessy Hair & <strong>Beauty</strong> Supplies: 021 434 3436<br />
/ www.hennessyhb.ie<br />
27
<strong>Beauty</strong>: Brow Treatments........................................................................................................................................................<br />
Image courtesy of RefectoCil / Salon System<br />
30
....................................................................................................................................................... <strong>Beauty</strong>: Brow Treatments<br />
Lamination, bespoke colouring and fluffy<br />
finishes are set to be big in brows for <strong>2020</strong>.<br />
Brow treatments have been big business over the last<br />
decade, with myriad professional treatments and products<br />
developed to shape and tame unruly hairs, thicken sparse<br />
brows, and help clients achieve eyebrows that frame the fame.<br />
As we enter a new decade, the thirst for beautiful brows shows<br />
no signing of stopping, with Brow Lamination just one of the<br />
latest bespoke salon treatments to hit the market.<br />
“Brow treatments are more popular than ever before - everyone<br />
wants their brows to look on point all the time,” says Natalie<br />
Piper, Business Development Manager at The Eyelash Design<br />
Company who developed the Hi Brow Lamination treatment.<br />
“Brows shape the face and accentuate features; this is why<br />
clients are looking for treatments to perfect their brows - and so<br />
they don’t have to worry about styling them into place every day.<br />
The need to streamline time spent on everyday beauty routines<br />
has pushed the development of new treatments with low<br />
maintenance results.”<br />
“The continued boom in lash and brow treatments has meant<br />
there has never been a better or more important time for<br />
salons to have a full treatment repertoire,” advise Hive of<br />
<strong>Beauty</strong>. “Indeed, according to Google’s ‘Year in Search’, Brow<br />
Lamination was one of the top ten beauty searches in 2019, with<br />
popularity of brow lamination and lash lift treatments showing no<br />
sign of slowing down in <strong>2020</strong>.”<br />
“Every make-up consultation should include tips on how to<br />
achieve a great brow – it helps to frame the eyes and complete<br />
the look,” says Caron Lee, Brow by Mii expert. “Clients are<br />
becoming extremely passionate about brows and are keen to<br />
seek a skilled therapist to give them the results they require. If<br />
a client loves their results they’re more likely to be loyal to your<br />
salon, allowing you to entice them to try other services.”<br />
<strong>2020</strong> brow trends<br />
Lisa Stone, Brow Expert and Salon System Educator, believes<br />
bold brows will still be popular this year, but agrees that ‘perfect’<br />
brows will be redefined. “Today’s current trend is big, bold,<br />
strong brows, this style has dominated 2019 and we will see<br />
it continue into <strong>2020</strong>, but there will be a slight softening to the<br />
big, bold strong brow with a little more ‘texture’ and ‘fluffy’ less<br />
block look and more ‘natural’, enhancing colour to correct and<br />
disguise,” she says.<br />
“On the <strong>2020</strong> spring catwalks we spotted natural brows with soft<br />
3D definition, described as the ‘shadow-effect brow’. While the<br />
‘dewy brow’ also stood out on the runways, a wet-look glossy<br />
brow that calls for wax-finish formulas and generous layers of<br />
clear brow gel,” adds Caron.<br />
One of the new treatments for creating softer, fluffier yet fuller<br />
brows is of course Brow Lamination. “Brow Lamination is<br />
currently the most requested beauty treatment,” explains Natalie.<br />
“The service realigns brow hairs into shape, adding fullness and<br />
definition. This only takes around 45 - 60 minutes and is the<br />
perfect treatment for someone who has non-uniform brow arches<br />
or lack of brow shape.<br />
“It’s all about a fluffy and full brow look, although some clients opt<br />
for a smart and well-groomed natural version of this look. This is<br />
one of the reasons why Brow Lamination is proving so popular -<br />
with this treatment, brows can be brushed up to be more bold, or<br />
brushed in a more natural style.”<br />
Demand for bespoke coloured brows is also coming to the fore,<br />
Lisa predicts. “Bold, strong brows will continue to dominate the<br />
industry whether that’s intense vivid colour, harmonising hair and<br />
brow colour together, or creating bold fashion statements or a<br />
blonde brow increasingly growing in popularity and prominent on<br />
the catwalks,” she says<br />
Ruth Atkins, Lash Expert and Salon System Educator, agrees:<br />
“For <strong>2020</strong> therapists are really going to be taking brow colouring<br />
to the next level by introducing an average of three tint colours<br />
together, to create a bespoke colour customisation service for<br />
their clients. By analysing the natural cool and warm tones of their<br />
clients, their hair colour, eyes and skin tone, the therapist can<br />
undertake the browista technique by RefectoCil by becoming a<br />
creative colourist for the brows.”<br />
“Brow treatments have always been a popular treatment and<br />
brow services are worth millions in our industry and are continually<br />
growing,” concludes Lisa. “These treatments and trends take your<br />
services to another level offering basic to advanced services…<br />
allowing you to be at the top of your game and have strong<br />
competition on the high street....Keeping up to date with the<br />
trends will stop you from falling behind and losing clients.”<br />
31
<strong>Beauty</strong>: Brow treatments.........................................................................................................................................................<br />
With RefectoCil’s Custom Colour Blending technique,<br />
nine unique brow looks can be created, whether that<br />
be natural or more creative.<br />
To complement the kit, Salon System’s RefectoCil<br />
Browista Creative Colour Workshop ensures correct<br />
colour choices to suit clients’ natural colouring and<br />
features, along with blending, application and aftercare.<br />
Salon System: www.salonsystem.com<br />
Lash eXtend BLX Lamination Brow Fix defines and volumizes<br />
brows, creating a natural, bushy look or a more defined look<br />
similar to microblading.<br />
Hairs are treated with a permanent fluid which changes the<br />
structure of the hair, to fix them in place using various techniques.<br />
BLX Lamination Brow Fix by Lash eXtend is ideal for those with<br />
stiff and untreatable or asymmetrically growing brows.<br />
Creative Academy: 01 429 5122 / www.creativeacademy.ie<br />
Kalentin’s Brow Lamination treatment creates a fluffy yet groomed<br />
brow look inspired by the Russian catwalk.<br />
The treatment enables you to correct the symmetry of brow hair, fixing<br />
it in correct direction of growth. During the treatment, brow hairs are<br />
nourished with active ingredients of vegetable keratin, Chamomile,<br />
Hyaluronic acid and panthenol within Kalentin’s brow lamination<br />
solution, generating softer, shinier and healthier eyebrows.<br />
NSI Hair Nail and <strong>Beauty</strong>: 01 840 9124 / www.nailandbeauty.ie<br />
Mii Cosmetics’ Brow by Mii professional service<br />
blends an extensive range of tint colours to best<br />
match a client’s skin tone and hair colour, using<br />
staged tinting techniques to create more volume<br />
or even out the colour of brows.<br />
In addition, their retail range offers a wide shade<br />
range to enhance natural brow colour; for<br />
example, the new Signature Brow Styler offers<br />
six shades including Auburn, ideal for redheads.<br />
Gerrard International:<br />
www.gerrardinternational.com<br />
32
........................................................................................................................................................ <strong>Beauty</strong>: Brow treatments<br />
Hi Brow Lamination realigns brow hairs into shape, staying<br />
in place for up to eight weeks, adding fullness and definition.<br />
During the treatment, brow hairs are secured into position<br />
using a style fixing product which straightens curved hairs<br />
and ensures symmetry, and stray hairs tidied.<br />
The treatment can be completed with an optional brow tint.<br />
Baam Cosmetics: www.lashperfect.ie<br />
For clients who have experienced disappointing Semi<br />
Permanent Makeup (SPMU) results on eyebrows, the Q<br />
Plus C laser platform offers successful removal.<br />
It utilises Ruby 694nm, Nd: YAG 532 and Nd: YAG 1064<br />
laser wavelengths and multilayer techniques to remove<br />
100% of each colour pigment present in the skin.<br />
Successful removal is achieved in four to six sessions,<br />
with skin treated gently, enabling cover up or further Semi<br />
Permanent Makeup application as soon as three months<br />
post laser removal. The Q Plus C can also be used to<br />
rectify scarring from previous microblading treatments.<br />
Advanced Esthetics Solutions: +44 (0) 29 2023 1228 /<br />
www.advancedestheticssolutions<br />
HD Brows’ BrowSculpt treatment tailors brow<br />
lamination techniques with a HD Brows twist, taming<br />
unruly brows for up to six weeks.<br />
The treatment includes Brow Lamination, which<br />
corrects brow shape setting hairs in place, followed<br />
by Bespoke Brow Tinting using Brow Dyes to mix<br />
a custom colour. The shape of the brows is then<br />
creating using a combination of waxing, threading<br />
and tweezing, and the treatment is concluded by<br />
adding a hair stroke or two.<br />
The <strong>Beauty</strong> School: +44 (0) 2841 753 900 /<br />
www.hdbrows.ie<br />
33
Nails: Latest News...................................................................................................................................................................<br />
Viva Mexico, say OPI this spring<br />
Celebrate the thriving art scene of Ciudad de Mexico (CDMX) with the new<br />
Mexico City Collection by OPI.<br />
Drawing inspiration from the vibrant art and fashion scenes of Mexico City,<br />
12 rich colours encapsulate the palettes of hues the artists of Ciudad de<br />
Mexico are renowned for.<br />
Commenting on the launch, OPI Global Director of Color Collections Jill<br />
Bartoshevic, says:<br />
“With this collection, we looked to Mexico City’s trendsetting street style,<br />
blending of old heritage and new urban feel, and passion and enthusiasm<br />
for art and design. The end result is a fresh spring palette with colours for<br />
everyone including soft pastels, energetic brights, and vivid floral tones.<br />
Telenovela Me About It - a perfect bright pink-purple that we’ve seen<br />
reflected on the spring runways - is sure to be a favourite of the season.”<br />
All colours are available in OPI Nail Lacquer, Infinite Shine and GelColor<br />
formulas, selected colours are also available in OPI Powder Perfection<br />
dipping powders.<br />
Hennessy Hair & <strong>Beauty</strong>: 021 434 3436 / www.hennessyhb.ie<br />
English floral inspiration<br />
for CND’s spring nails<br />
CND have released their spring <strong>2020</strong> colour collection,<br />
English Garden, available in CND Shellac and Vinylux<br />
Weekly Polish.<br />
The collection of six colours incorporate feminine neutrals and<br />
cool pastels, inspired by fresh spring flowers. Shades include<br />
dark neutral Flowerbed Folly, creamy pink Soft Peony; semisheer<br />
white Lady Lilly, bubble gum pink Kiss from a Rose, cooltoned<br />
pink Carnation Bliss, and pastel mint green Topiary.<br />
Commenting on the launch of English Garden, CND<br />
Co-Founder and Style Director, Jan Arnold, says:<br />
“CND English Garden collection feels like the start of spring<br />
in a bottle. It’s a whimsical selection of pastels made for the<br />
season, transporting you to a gorgeous garden getaway.”<br />
Sweet Squared: 01 408 9191 / www.sweetsquared.com<br />
Individual pedi products<br />
for economy & hygiene<br />
Love performing pedicures but fed up of wasting<br />
product? Voesh Individual Spa Pedicure Collection<br />
features individually packaged products with just<br />
the right amounts for a single pedicure, preventing<br />
unnecessary waste.<br />
The four-step treatment of Sea Salt Soak, Sugar<br />
Scrub, Mud Masque and Massage Cream, is<br />
available in nine sensations for clients to choose from,<br />
depending on their mood. Products are enriched with<br />
nutritious ingredients to revive and care for feet.<br />
The individual packaging also means that treatments<br />
are hygienic, with no spatulas or dipping required.<br />
NSI Hair Nail and <strong>Beauty</strong>: 01 840 9124 /<br />
www.nailandbeauty.ie<br />
36
.................................................................................................................................................................. Nails: Latest News<br />
React prep & finish<br />
formulation in one<br />
Following the success of their React base and topcoat products,<br />
Morgan Taylor has launched React Breathable 3-in-1, a base,<br />
treatment and topcoat in one product.<br />
The React Breathable formulation, which includes vitamins C,<br />
B5 and E, cares for nails, creating polymer gaps that allow air to<br />
pass through nail lacquer and which continue through when it’s<br />
also used as a topcoat.<br />
The prep and finish formulation works with any nail lacquer<br />
system, and does not require soaking to remove.<br />
Creative Academy: 01 429 5122 / www.creativeacademy.ie<br />
Dip into Gelish’s<br />
Editor’s Picks collection<br />
Did you know that Gelish’s new Editor’s Picks spring colour collection is<br />
available in Gelish Dip Powder, as well as Gelish Soak-Off Gel Polish and<br />
Morgan Taylor Nail Lacquer?<br />
Gelish Dip Acrylic powder enables you to achieve vivid colour finishes,<br />
easier and faster than applying traditional liquid and powder acrylic.<br />
New Editor’s Picks spring colours in Gelish Dip Powder include Barely<br />
Buff, a palest pink crème; I Speak Chic, a taupe nude crème; Call My<br />
Blush, a soft sheer pink; On Cloud Mine, a sheer peachy pink; Going<br />
Vogue, an antique rose crème, and It’s Your Mauve, a mauve crème.<br />
Creative Academy: 01 429 5122 / www.creativeacademy.ie<br />
TruMatch set to launch<br />
nearly 100 new shades!<br />
Ezflow has launched its TruMatch collection including<br />
matching TruDIP acrylic dip powder, TruGEL gel<br />
polish and TruLAQ long lasting polish.<br />
Available in 48 shades at present, <strong>2020</strong> will see<br />
another 98 shades added to this collection.<br />
Odour-free TruDip allows you to provide a stronger<br />
colour option for weaker nails without having to<br />
apply sculptured nail enhancements. TruGel gel<br />
polish 15ml bottle gives you up to 20 sets of nails,<br />
whilst TruLAQ is a richly pigmented lacquer that lasts<br />
twice as long as a regular polish.<br />
Products can be purchased individually, whilst<br />
TruGEL and TruLAQ are also sold as a Duo,<br />
encouraging retail opportunities.<br />
NSI Hair Nail and <strong>Beauty</strong>: 01 840 9124 /<br />
www.nailandbeauty.ie<br />
37
Nails: Builder Gels..................................................................................................................................................................<br />
Build me up<br />
Today’s choice of builder gels offer strength,<br />
elegance and faster enhancement options for<br />
sculpting and camouflage.<br />
With today’s nail gel products enabling you to create strong,<br />
elegant enhancements with the strength of acrylic but without<br />
the complexity of liquid and powder, many nail techs are<br />
switching to builder gel systems for easier, faster application<br />
times and predictable results.<br />
Gelish Structure Gel improves the look of distressed,<br />
damaged, uneven or troubled nail plates.<br />
It can be worn alone or as a base coat. Its thicker<br />
viscosity enhances the strength of the natural nail,<br />
increasing durability. Structure Gel is also ideal for<br />
filling in ridges and hiding demarcations.<br />
Available in Clear, Translucent Pink and Cover Pink,<br />
the gel is applied from a bottle and can be easily<br />
soaked off.<br />
Creative Academy: 01 429 5122 /<br />
www.creativeacademy.ie<br />
NSI Balance Builder in a Bottle is a hard gel<br />
system in a bottle, delivering the strength of the<br />
traditional NSI Balance Gel System.<br />
Curable under LED and UV lights, this gel can<br />
be used to extend the nail and for natural nail<br />
overlays. With a medium to thick viscosity, use<br />
the gel for easy building of the nail, creating a<br />
slight apex, or to add durability to nails.<br />
NSI Balance Builder in a Bottle is available in<br />
Blush and Clear.<br />
NSI Hair Nail and <strong>Beauty</strong>: 01 840 9124 /<br />
www.nailandbeauty.ie<br />
Bio Sculpture’s Hard Gel (formerly S-Gel)<br />
delivers the strength of acrylic but the<br />
weightlessness and elegance of gel.<br />
Used as the strengthening / finishing layer on<br />
hard nails without flexibility, this gel can be<br />
used to lengthen nails to create long, strong<br />
extensions with a transparent free edge.<br />
Bio Sculpture Hard Gel is self-levelling for<br />
ease of application, and can be used to build<br />
a solid upper arch that shapes easily.<br />
Bio Sculpture Ireland: 01 850 0005 /<br />
www.biosculpture.ie<br />
38
................................................................................................................................................................. Nails: Builder Gels<br />
OPI Axxium Gel System, with its brush-on application,<br />
offers workability and ease of application, delivering<br />
predictable results.<br />
The range includes OPI Axxium Sculpting Gel in Clear,<br />
Soft White, Soft Pink and Opaque Pink, and has a<br />
no-chase viscosity for faster sculpting of strong, yet<br />
flexible and lightweight enhancements. OPI Axxium<br />
Sculpting Gel has superior adhesion for long-lasting<br />
results, and the range of colours enables you to<br />
create natural-looking pink and whites.<br />
Hennessy Hair & <strong>Beauty</strong>: 021 434 3436 /<br />
www.hennessyhb.ie<br />
The GelBottle Inc Builder In A Bottle offer in excess of 15<br />
different builder gel shades in bottle formulations.<br />
These soak-off builder gels, which can also be infilled, create<br />
strong overlays, and strengthen natural nails. Product does not<br />
chip or lift, and nails can be left nude or a coloured gel overlaid.<br />
Curable under UV and LED lamps, a non-wipe GelBottle topcoat<br />
is also available.<br />
The GelBottle Inc: 086 227 1698 / www.thegelbottle.ie<br />
Magpie’s Build Me Up is a super-strong yet lightweight Builder Gel,<br />
that is the stronger sister of the brand’s Give Me Strength Soak Off<br />
Structure Gel. It enables you to create flexible enhancements and<br />
overlays, in five shades: Clear, Naked, Cloud, Blush and Buff.<br />
A baseless gel, so there’s no need to apply a base coat, it can be<br />
used to extend nails with forms or tips. On application, the gel is selflevelling,<br />
and cures in 60 seconds under an LED lamp. Once cured,<br />
enhancements are chip and lift resistant.<br />
The formulation is also free of common allergen, HEMA (2 hydroxy<br />
ethylmethacrylate).<br />
NSI Hair Nail and <strong>Beauty</strong>: 01 840 9124 / www.nailandbeauty.ie<br />
IBD Builder Gel enables you to create nails with<br />
the strength of acrylic but with the clear look of gels.<br />
Wearing naturally on nails, this gel is ideal for tip<br />
overlays as well as sculpting.<br />
Odour-free, once cured in just three minutes (with a<br />
cool cure formula), finished nails have a permanent<br />
high gloss shine<br />
IBD Builder Gel is available in Clear, Pink, White and<br />
Ultra White.<br />
Flair Hair & <strong>Beauty</strong>: www.flair.ie<br />
39
Candice Gardner Writes: Year-round UV protection..................................................................................................................<br />
Dermalogica’s Candice Gardner on<br />
why SPF isn’t just for summer.<br />
Promoting<br />
year-round<br />
UV protection<br />
As we slowly approach spring, the topic of SPF and UV protection will<br />
start to come up more frequently in our clinics and skin centres.<br />
Whether your customers are trying to escape grey skies and cold weather, make<br />
a last quick dash down the slopes whilst there is still snow, or plan for their<br />
annual summer vacation, this conversation should not simply revolve around their<br />
intermittent exposure, but rather that daylight defence is part of everyday good<br />
skin care.<br />
Some would argue that sunscreens on a daily basis are simply not relevant to the<br />
<strong>Irish</strong> climate, except at points during the summer or when travelling abroad. Whilst<br />
intensity of the UV rays penetrating to the earth’s surface will vary with time of year<br />
and your geographic location, it is important to remember that there will always be<br />
some level UV radiation.<br />
The UV Index<br />
The World Health Organisation developed the UV Index to help provide the public<br />
with information about the intensity of the sun, relevant to where they live, so that<br />
they can take adequate precautions when exposed to reduce skin cancer risk.<br />
Since Ireland has a generally low UV Index value of approximately 1-3 during the<br />
winter months, where risk of burning is unlikely in most skins, customers may<br />
believe UV protection is simply not necessary.<br />
Whilst burning increases skin cancer risk significantly, we now understand<br />
that skin damage and skin cancer are not only reliant on burning. Years of<br />
accumulative effect interjected with short bursts of extreme intermittent exposure<br />
during summer and summer holidays results in premature skin ageing and some<br />
surprisingly high skin cancer statistics despite the climate.<br />
Around 5% of UV rays are high intensity UVB rays, responsible for burning skin<br />
and are the main consideration in the UV Index. They may be less prevalent<br />
dependant on the time of year and level of cloud cover, which means most skins<br />
are unlikely to burn at these times.<br />
The other 95%, the UVA rays, have a longer wavelength allowing them<br />
to penetrate deeper into the skin. Prolonged UVA exposure can lead to<br />
hyperpigmentation, wrinkles, and skin cancer, even though there is no burning.<br />
The cumulative effect of UVA damage is what makes it imperative for clients to<br />
wear sunscreen daily.<br />
Candice Gardner is Education Manager – Digital<br />
and Content at The International Dermal Institute<br />
and Dermalogica (www.dermalogica.ie).<br />
40
.................................................................................................................. Candice Gardner Writes: Year-round UV protection<br />
“Prolonged UVA<br />
exposure can lead to<br />
hyperpigmentation,<br />
wrinkles, and skin<br />
cancer, even though<br />
there is no burning”.<br />
HEV or blue light<br />
What about high energy visible light (HEV) or blue light? Whilst we<br />
have always experienced exposure from daylight, the increased use of<br />
computers and smart devices has increased the concerns around free<br />
radical damage and potential for health concerns in the future. High energy<br />
visible light is the part of the light spectrum that sits right next to UV.<br />
The energy produced is lower than that of UVA but can still cause some<br />
generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS).<br />
Early studies suggest that too much blue light may contribute to collagen<br />
degradation, darken hyperpigmentation, especially in deeper skin tones, as<br />
well as trigger inflammation. On the other end of the debate, there is a lot of<br />
good research on the benefits of blue light for treatment of breakouts and<br />
wound healing.<br />
Research is still emerging in this area and we do not yet have sufficient<br />
data collected over time to define accurately the level of exposure required<br />
to cause a specific degree of damage. However, since blue light borders<br />
UVA in the electromagnetic spectrum, some sunscreen filters like zinc oxide<br />
and titanium dioxide can also shield from blue light at the same time as<br />
providing UV protection.<br />
With this in mind, what advice should we provide?<br />
Selecting an SPF relative to your needs<br />
Since prevention is better than cure, including sunscreen as part of your<br />
daily regimen will reduce unwanted skin changes. Protection from skin<br />
cancers and premature ageing requires both UVA and UVB shielding. Whilst<br />
SPF (Sun Protection Factor) provides a measure of protection from UVB<br />
and burning, always recommend a broad-spectrum sunscreen that has<br />
the designated symbol (UVA in a circle) on the packaging to ensure your<br />
product is protecting you from both. UVA screening is far more relevant in<br />
the context of daily and indoor use.<br />
No sunscreen can shield 100% of UV so select SPF relative to your needs.<br />
Here is the relative level of protection based on SPF:<br />
• SPF15 – 93.3% protection<br />
• SPF30 – 96.6% protection<br />
• SPF50 – 97.7% protection<br />
If the product has the UVA symbol then the level of UVA protection<br />
will be directly proportionate to the SPF.<br />
Note that there is only around one percent difference in protection<br />
between SPF30 and SPF50. Labelling regulations prevent a<br />
sunscreen claiming more than SPF50+ as the incremental protection<br />
is negligible and potentially misleading.<br />
Based on skin condition and preference you can select from<br />
chemical or physical sunscreens.<br />
Chemical sunscreens use chemical compounds such as octocrylene<br />
or octinoxate to absorb UV radiation and convert it to heat. This<br />
chemical reaction is innocuous but the increase in heat in the skin is<br />
the reason some skins find chemical sunscreens uncomfortable. The<br />
advantage is that they are invisible on all skins, and water resistant,<br />
making them suitable in lots of situations.<br />
Physical sunscreens work like a mirror to reflect and scatter<br />
damaging UV rays away from the skin. The mineral particles of<br />
titanium dioxide and zinc oxide provide the physical shield and are<br />
generally the preferred choice for sensitised skins and babies. Since<br />
these particles don’t absorb into the skin they can rub off, sweat off<br />
or rinse off easily. Traditionally, they have also been incredibly thick,<br />
chalky formulas that left an annoying and obvious white residue.<br />
Thankfully, there are better options now available.<br />
If you are expecting an extended or high level of exposure, select<br />
a sunscreen and apply generously 30 minutes prior to exposure.<br />
Reapply every two hours.<br />
For everyday layer over your regular moisturiser in the morning or<br />
select a multitasking moisturiser with built in SPF. A single daily<br />
application is sufficient for a day in the office with short bouts of<br />
exposure on the commute or at lunch.<br />
Skin care professionals know that sunscreen is not just for summer,<br />
and with the right education, our customers can make this part of<br />
their year round regimen.<br />
41
Education: News.....................................................................................................................................................................<br />
WHAT’S NEW?<br />
Training, upskilling or looking for a course?<br />
Get the latest news here!<br />
Book your ABT Student<br />
Ambassador visit<br />
Are you a college lecturer who would like to discover how ABT<br />
membership can benefit your students, both as they train with you<br />
and also as they move into employment? If so, a visit from ABT’s<br />
Student Ambassador, Martin Widdicombe, is for you.<br />
ABT Student Membership is available to all beauty, nails,<br />
complementary therapy and hairdressing students and includes a<br />
comprehensive insurance package through Catlin Insurance (UK)<br />
Ltd which includes up to €6.5 million Professional Treatment Risks<br />
insurance, €6.5 million Public Liability insurance and €6.5 million<br />
Product Liability insurance for students’ Case Study work or for<br />
other work prior to qualification.<br />
To arrange Martin to visit your school or college and speak to your<br />
students about the benefits of ABT membership, email him at<br />
martin@abtinsurance.co.uk<br />
Hennessy to offer White<br />
to Brown tanning training<br />
Hennessy Hair & <strong>Beauty</strong> have teamed up with tanning<br />
brand White to Brown to offer training courses for<br />
beginners and advanced tan technicians.<br />
White to Brown offer a full range of sunless tan solutions,<br />
including White to Brown Organic (10% DHA) with ecocertified<br />
DHA and extracts of Vitamin E, Avocado Oil and<br />
organic Aloe Vera. The brand also offers White to Brown<br />
Rapid Tan, an express bronze tan that develops in just one<br />
hour for a light, sunkissed tan.<br />
Hennessy Hair & <strong>Beauty</strong>: 021 434 3436 /<br />
training@hennessyhb.ie<br />
Try Before You Buy with Creative Academy<br />
To celebrate Gelish, PolyGel and Gelish Dip’s success at this year’s Nail Magazine,<br />
NailPro Magazine and Launchpad RCA awards, Creative Academy are offering a<br />
new range of conversion classes in all three systems.<br />
The Try Before You Buy courses are open to Nail Technicians and/or <strong>Beauty</strong><br />
Therapists to enable you to convert to your chosen product range.<br />
After class, students will receive a certificate and will also be able to buy any open<br />
stock they wish in Creative Academy’s store VAT-free (valid on day of training<br />
only). To attend Try Before You Buy PolyGel courses, students must already hold a<br />
qualification in either Gel or Acrylic.<br />
Creative Academy: 01 429 5122 / www.creativeacademy.ie<br />
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...........................................................................................................................................................................<strong>Beauty</strong> Talk<br />
Emma James, Digital Marketing and Communications<br />
Executive at Flair Hair & <strong>Beauty</strong> Supplies, talks with the<br />
best in the beauty business.<br />
<strong>Beauty</strong> Talk<br />
Michelle Regazzoli Stone is a Make Up Artist<br />
and founder of MRS Makeup, and new<br />
project, MRS Glam, launching in <strong>March</strong>.<br />
Tell us a little bit about yourself…<br />
“I grew up on the Navan Road and went to<br />
the local schools. In second year, I moved to<br />
Mount Sackville…when I left school I started<br />
in Dun Laoghaire College and I completed<br />
a one-year course in Theatrical and Media<br />
Make-up. That was the best year of my life, I<br />
absolutely loved every second of it!<br />
“That was the first year they had ran a<br />
make-up course. Make-up was still relatively<br />
new in Ireland. MAC would have still been<br />
very new in Ireland. That summer, I went<br />
into MAC every single Saturday. I used to<br />
show them my portfolio…I plagued them; I<br />
was so focused on working for them! It paid<br />
off; I got a job with them that August. They<br />
were opening a store in Blanchardstown<br />
that year and the following year they opened<br />
in Dundrum. I was there for both of those<br />
openings which was brilliant experience…<br />
I was with MAC for 10 years! Persistence<br />
is key.”<br />
After a fantastic experience at MAC,<br />
what gave you the push to build your<br />
own business?<br />
“When I was on my second maternity leave,<br />
I was starting to watch social media develop.<br />
I was based in one of my friend’s hair salons<br />
and I was going from two faces on a Friday<br />
and Saturday, to five to eight to ten, and<br />
people were just getting their make-up done<br />
to go out on a Saturday night. I was starting<br />
to see just how much the market was starting<br />
to change because of social media. If you<br />
were going out with the girls on a Saturday<br />
night out you wanted to look glam, smokey<br />
eye and hair blow-dried, because now it was<br />
going to be online.”<br />
Social Media is a massive platform<br />
in the beauty industry, how has this<br />
impacted your business?<br />
“Social media was an absolute game<br />
changer, 100% the catapult for me was flying<br />
over to Ibiza to do the wedding make-up for<br />
Rosanna Davison in June 2014. I had to hire<br />
somebody a month later to look after my<br />
emails and messages because I had so many<br />
enquires. It completely changed everything<br />
for me.”<br />
You are best known for bridal makeup,<br />
celeb clients, magazine and TV<br />
work. How did you break into that<br />
side of the industry?<br />
“When I left MAC, I could see again how<br />
things were changing with the likes of social<br />
media. I went out to Cari’s Closet, into<br />
designers in town, I went to anybody that I<br />
could walk through the door and let them<br />
know who I am and hand them a business<br />
card. Even if they said to me ‘no sorry, not<br />
looking for anybody’ they still rang me back<br />
when they needed somebody. Similar to what<br />
I had done with MAC, I was persistent, I’d<br />
make sure they knew who I was.<br />
“I think with us being such a small location,<br />
it really is about trying to stand out and make<br />
sure people know who you are. I got in with<br />
VIP Magazine and again followed people on<br />
Instagram, reaching out to them sending<br />
messages. A lot of it was free work but it paid<br />
off in the end; I never shied away from doing<br />
something for free because it always came<br />
back as a positive!”<br />
You worked in Essex for a year, tell<br />
me about that...<br />
“I absolutely loved working in Essex, even<br />
though we’re so close to the UK we’re<br />
completely different in every way. Their<br />
studios are warehouses, our studios are<br />
a room. Everything was bigger, it was<br />
incredible. You’re working in bigger teams,<br />
you’re learning from everyone whether it’s the<br />
lighting people, the stylist, photographers and<br />
others; it was invaluable in my experience.<br />
“The stylist would have a lot of input in your<br />
make-up and I wasn’t used to that, but I<br />
really appreciated that they’d come in and<br />
say that the lip needs to be darker or the<br />
contour needs to be stronger.<br />
“What I learned in the UK was to read<br />
the room. If I had of gone in and created<br />
an Instagram make-up – so cut creases,<br />
heavy eyes and too much highlighter – OK<br />
magazine would never work with me again<br />
because it’s not their style. I had to learn to<br />
still be true to my own style and what I create<br />
but also know what the shoot requires.<br />
“I’ll never forget there was one top guy I was<br />
working with for OK magazine and he said I<br />
don’t even have to Photoshop your make-up<br />
it’s incredible. I’ll never forget it! Obviously<br />
with editorial there is always slight tweaks<br />
and edits, so that was such a compliment!”<br />
43