Nomad issue #26

WEEKEND AWAY
My boyfriend and I have
been on a trip across
the north coast, booking
stays at boutique
romantic beachfront
owner-run properties
where our days are
spent going on romantic
sunset cruises, sipping
good wine and going
on long walks along pristine beaches
(and somehow still managing to have the
occasional argument). We save the best
for last; The Cabanas at Kizingoni Beach
in Lamu. This property was actually my
suggestion, having visited it previously in
2016 and vowing to one day return with a
partner.
Arriving at the all-too familiar Manda
Airport, a prearranged speedboat with a
friendly captain picks us up from the jetty
and pretty soon we’re darting across the sea
past mangrove forests towards the southern
end of the Lamu archipelago. Set a little far
from the airport (we wanted somewhere
secluded where the only other people we
would bump into would either be staff or a
fisherman passing through), it takes us about
35 minutes to get there. “Is that it?” he asks
eagerly as we approach Matondoni, then
Kipungani. “When you see it, believe me,
you will know it,” I respond.
Everything falls into place as we advance
upon a golden stretch of beach where staff
members dressed in breezy white shirts are
smiling and waving at us. Kizingoni beach
looks like a dream, and to be back here with
somebody it’s like straight out of one of those
romantic novels I spent afternoons poring
over under my desk during boring history
classes in high school. Perhaps due to the
fact that I always had my head buried in
books about faraway places as a teenager,
I’ve always wanted to be marooned on an
island, Robinson Crusoe style - albeit with all
the haute style and luxuries of a chic room
with clean linen - and this would be just the
place to live out those fantasies. As our bags
are carried to our room, we are ushered
to the bar area for a refreshing welcome
drink and an orientation of the property. The
bar looks different from what I remember
with swing sets serving as bar stools and a
comfortable lounge on one end.
Perched on a sand dune and nestled
amidst trees right on the beach with
unobstructed views of the sea, walking
up our two-storey villa, one of eight in the
property, is like going up a tree house.
Rightly so because given the elevated
position of our room, we might as well be
staying in one. The rustic structure, too,
blends with the environment as the high roof
is palm thatched and the walls are made
from woven mats. Wooden accents are also
everywhere, from the Swahili-style balcony
chairs to the large intricately carved mirror
above a bed so large it could fit an entire
family. Lying on this bed during high tide,
you can see the water shimmering under
the sun right in front of your balcony. There
is also a loo with an absolutely incredible
view and one could be content to just gaze
at the landscape from there, but alas, there’s
an even better spot downstairs where two
hammocks, set side by side, bring you eye
to eye with the ocean. Bare feet, messy hair,
swimsuits and cocktails at hand, we spend a
bit of time bonding and enjoying the breeze
from here.
It takes a certain kind of romantic to
run a place like this, and should you meet
Shawn and Anna, it will all fall into place.
These two, much like my partner and I, come
from opposite ends of the world - Shawn is
from Hawaii while Anna is from Kenya. The
NOMAD MAGAZINE 2020 25