Travel lovePoland Magazine March 2020

travel.lovePoland

It's getting warm again! Hiking trips no longer require great preparations to make sure we will be warm. Hence, we are inviting you to some interesting places in Poland. We start the journey with searching for Wroclaw Dwarfs, and then move to one of the youngest, but with numerous historic links, the city of Gdynia. I also encourage you to read the interview with Aleksander Smaga, an architect involved in commemorating our history. The magazine must not miss trips related to nature. This time, we are inviting you to two national parks. First, to Magura (with an additional text by Katarzyna Skora) and then to the Barycz Valley Park located in the opposite corner (it may be a good idea to spend time in western Poland - right after visiting Wrocław). For our part, we recommend a trip to a place not often reached buy the tourists coming from abroad - namely the monastery in Wigry - located somewhere far in the eastern borderland of Poland. For those who prefer rather mountain expeditions combined with relaxation in a climatic small town, we have a text about Krynica - located on the edge of the Beskid Sadecki (which, the chances are, may be our future home).
In the Magazine we always try to devote a lot place to tradition: this time, of course, it will be Easter and a text devoted to a 'Śmigus', as well as a bit more serious one associated with the pilgrimage to Kalwaria Zebrzydowska. Closer to the summer period, we would like to invite you to participate in Pentecost and Midsummer Night celebrations - it will be a journey to the east again.
In this issue, we have also prepared a special map for you, regarding the trips with a dog. Many of you probably take your pet on vacation, so let's have a look where, in Polish National Parks, your dog can accompany you.
We wish you a Happy Easter with a  piece of sweet, shortcrust mazurek.

Contributors to this issue: Anna Adamska, Paweł Budzik, Bartosz Dubiel, Zuzanna Długosz, Konrad Rogozinski, Anna Olesińska, Jerzy Rajecki, Marek Sałatowski, Alexander Smaga, Olga Śpiewankiewicz, Katarzyna Skóra, Radosław Sikora, Łukasz Sowiński and Jakub Zawadziński.
Additionally: thanks to Znak Publishing House for cooperation on this issue. 


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w i t k a c y t h e a t r e i n Z a k o p a n e

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"Life makes most sense at the height of nonsense"

Witkacy theatre is one of the most cherished theatres in Poland.

It was founded in 1984 in tribute to a Zakopane legend,

Stanislaw Ignacy Witkiewicz.





W r o c ł a w ’ s d w a r f s . S t o r y b y A n n a A d a m s k a ,

w w w . m e e t m y c i t y . t o u r s

Słupnik / Street Poler

Vincent Dwarf

The Orchestra of Dwarfs – The Violinist

The Friendly (Traveller)

Wrocław’s

dwarfs

by Anna Adamska

photos: Wrocław Official, www.visitwroclaw.eu

www.meetmycity.tours

anna@meetmycity.tours

Wrocław’s dwarfs (Polish: krasnale or krasnoludki) are

small figurines (20-30 cm) that first appeared in the

streets of Wrocław, Poland, in 2005. Since then, their

numbers have been continually growing, and today they

are considered a tourist attraction: those who would like

to combine sight-seeing in Wrocław with "Hunting for

dwarfs" are offered special brochures with a map

and mobile application software for smartphones. As of

2015, there are over 500 dwarfs spread all over the city.

There are many ways to describe Wrocław. Some people will

remember the city as the ‘Best European Destination of 2018’ or

‘Venice of Northern Europe ‘due to the impressive number of

bridges in the City. Some will see Wrocław as one of the best

places to celebrate the Christmas Market.

There is one more factor that makes Wrocław a very unique

place. When you arrive in the city centre you might be surprised

or even alarmed by the vast number of dwarfs that surround you.

Don't worry! Everything is OK with your sight! You are in Wrocław

- also known as ‘City of Dwarfs’. There are more than 520 dwarfs

in Wrocław and the number is growing.

This unique relationship between dwarfs and the city started in

the 1980s and came about as a result of an initiative from the

anti-communist underground movement of the time, which was

called the Orange Alternative and led by Waldemar Fydrych,

commonly known as ‘Major’. The main purpose of the movement

was to fight the regime using an absurd and nonsensical

approach, which could have been straight from a Monthy Python

sketch. Initially they painted absurd images of dwarfs on wellknown

graffiti locations where the government had tried to cover

up their previous anti-government slogans.

06 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


By doing this, members of the Orange Alternative could

not be arrested by the police without the authorities

becoming a laughing stock. Additionally, the Orange

Alternative organized various events within the city

encouraging people to think independently and laugh at

what they saw as the absurdities of the system.

Years later, to commemorate the events of the past, the

first statue of a dwarf called ‘Papa Dwarf’ was founded on

01/06/2001 in a joint venture by the City Council and the

Agora publishing company. Papa Dwarf is bigger than all

the other dwarfs as he is leader of the dwarf community

in Wrocław. His naked figure made of bronze, stands on

top of an enormous thumb next to Świdnicka Street,

where many Orange Alternative events took place.

In 2005 a local artist named Tomasz Moczek gave life to

the next generation of dwarves and called them:

Sisyphers (Curler & Boller) – in front of the Post Office

at the Main Square. These poor guys are working hard as

they seem to be rolling their large granite ball in opposite

directions.

Butcher – at the Shambles (Jatki), location of a former

butchery in medieval Wrocław. His presence is supposed

to keep the place free from rats and legend has it he is

also Tomasz Moczek's favourite dwarf. Odra Washer – on

the Sand Island. This little fellow is doing laundry for his

mates on the bank of the river. He took off his shoes so

they will not get wet during the laundry. Swordsman – in

front of the University. He's a naughty boy, completely

naked, ashamed and covering his body with only an

umbrella. His story is directly related to the statue of the

Swordsman located in the University Square. This

sculpture, designed by Hugo Lederer in 1904, is supposed

to commemorate a true story from the Hugo's life and to

warn young people not to gamble, as in the end, they may

end up with nothing but their swords! Since 2005, the

population of dwarfs has grown extensively and it has

become quite a challenge to give the exact total these

days. In part this is due to the fact that although over

300 dwarfs were officially founded by Wrocław City

Council, the rest have been commissioned by private

investors and companies willing to pay to have their own

dwarf in their courtyard or outside their shop. Since

almost anybody can have their own little dwarf friend, it

has become difficult to keep track of them all. Officially,

in order to have your own dwarf, all you need to do is

complete the paperwork and wait for approval from the

city hall. In fact, there is a special registration office just

for the dwarfs and legend has it that a dwarf at home

brings good luck and helps double your money. No wonder

they are so popular. In actual fact, due to their popularity,

on occasion dwarfs have been kidnaped and even stolen,

resulting in GPS being installed inside them.

Dwarf facts and figures make for interesting reading; They

are between 20-30 cm high and weigh around 4-5 kg each.

Famous dwarf maker Tomasz Moczek explained that after

drawing the figure of a new dwarf, he then creates a clay

mould of the design that acts as a negative for the silicone

and gypsum model that follows. He then makes four small

holes in the model and carefully pours hot wax into it,

making sure that the form has the same thickness

throughout its body. After he completes any final

retouching, he places the model into a 700 degree oven for

12 hours. The wax melts, leaving a cavity into which the

artist pours molten bronze to make a cast. He then reheats

it to 1200 degrees as the little dwarf gains mass and grows

into a street-ready statue (explanations taken from

www.bbc.com/travel/story/20171017-the-truth-behindwrocaws-cheeky-gnomes).

The dwarfs, although not big in size, have become a huge

symbol of Wrocław and are even part of the city logo! In

2011, leader of the Orange Alternative – Major Waldemar

Fydrych accused the City Council of breaching copyright,

when according to him, the figure of a dwarf used by the

City Council to promote the city, was a direct copy of the

original dwarf painted by the Major and Wiesław Cupała on

the night of 30th August 1982 on buildings at

Smoluchowskiego Street. So far, the court battle seems to

be moving in the favour of the Major with the latest ruling

from 2018 directing the City Council to apologize to the

original graffiti artist and pay compensation of 666,666.66

PLN (approx. 132k GBP). As you might expect, the city

disagreed with this judgement and in the end, Mr Fydrych

received his apology, however the final amount to be paid

is still under negotiation.

ROSZEK / THE VET

07 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


The Orchestra of Dwarfs – The Conductor

The Cyclist

The Orchestra of Dwarfs – music score

In the meantime, the Wroclaw dwarf community welcomed

the following new members : Blindie, Deafie and Wheelie are

three disabled dwarfs who live outside the entrance to the

Old Town Hall. Wheelie sits on his speeding wheelchair with

his beard blowing in the wind. Deafie is equipped with a

hearing aid and Blindie with a walking stick and dark glasses.

They arrived in the city in 2008 to support the campaign

“Wrocław without barriers”. That's the spirit!

Dwarfette shows us that the dwarf world is also occupied by

females. This very sympathetic train dispatcher awaits you

at the Central Railway Station on platform 2. She works very

hard to get noticed by the passengers coming off the trains.

Sleeper holds a spear and guards the gate to the

underground world of the dwarfs at the square of St.

Elisabeth’s church. He's been a bit naughty falling asleep at

work! Prisoner sits in the window of the former city jail. He's

stuck behind bars with a ball and chain attached to his leg.

He's serving time for shaving his beard, which dwarfs are

not allowed to do, but as he has been there a while, his

beard has grown back! While walking through the old town

of Wroclaw, take time to look around and you will find so

many cute dwarfs surrounding you. Also, when you look up,

you’ll discover them climbing lamp posts, sitting on window

sills and even on the railings of the highest bridge in the city

centre – the Witches Bridge where you can meet two

witches waiting for you with their cat!

Most dwarfs are afraid of the heights, therefore usually we

find them on the ground in front of their buildings - keeping

themselves occupied with different tasks such as playing

music, cycling, drinking beer and running, just like us in our

human world.

If you wish to look for dwarfs in Wrocław, we would be

delighted to take you on our tours and show you around our

beautiful city.

Anna Adamska

08 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


Sprinklers bring cool on hot days

The Train Dispatcher – Dwarfette

09 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


10 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

Marek Sałatowski

www.facebook.com/MarekSalatowski

dyniaphotos:



When it comes to photographic "hunger", like everyone, I also have my dreams and

goals and, like many others, I strive to achieve them. I think that Gdynia has many

noteworthy places to offer, we should also remember that the coastal landscape

provides us with new impressions every now and then, we will never see the same

sunrise or sunset, and the appearance of the waterfront can change from day to

day.

tLP: Since we are talking to the 'Gdynia citizen', of course we have to ask for a trip

'round the city' and beyond. What is the heart, a kind of social salon of Gdynia?

Where can you meet the most interesting people or experience the most abundant

'visual' sensations?

MAREK: Speaking of the heart of Gdynia, most residents will probably think of

Kościuszko Square that ends with the South Pier. The "square" is a place teeming

with life, both residents and tourists spend a lot of time here, strolling, meeting

family and friends, visiting nearby pubs; this is where all the occasional events take

place and where we have the opportunity to make new friends.

The ORP Błyskawica mooring in the Presidential Pool, Dar Pomorza and the still

seaworthy Dar Młodzieży catch the eyes not only of the visitors but also regulars

and residents. If we talk about visual sensations then I think that everyone will find

something for themselves. One of Gdynia's amazing places is the Gdynia Motor

Museum, where you can admire ten cars from the interwar period and 28

motorcycles from the collection of Wojciech Ciążkowski, a car enthusiast.

OLGA: It's not an easy question for me. There are several places that are popular

not only with tourists but the most interesting people, mainly in the summer, we will

meet on the Boulevard of Gdynia, which is teeming with life from dusk till dawn. You

can take a walk or eat in one of the seaside restaurants. Here, too, people come to

work out in the gyms, or just sit on benches and listen to the sound of the sea.

tLP: What other tourist points are not to be missed? The Motor Museum, the

Emigration Museum, the Aquarium? Or maybe just a beach?

MAREK: I think that everyone will find something for themselves in Gdynia, I think it

is worth visiting each of the places mentioned above by you. Additionally, I

recommend visiting the navy and sailing ships mooring here. For walking lovers, I

recommend a wild beach on Babie Doły, fabulous Orłowo where we can walk on the

pier and admire the beautiful views climbing the cliff. Once, Orłowo was a small

fishing village. In the 1930's it began to be known as a health resort, and now it is

one of the most beautiful districts of Gdynia. Pre-war villas, a lot of modern white

buildings and a beautiful, long, wide and sandy beach! The picturesque cliff is still

undercut by storms and the steep bank stretches for nearly 650 m from Redłowo to

Orłowo. Numerous examples of protected species of vegetation can be found on the

cliff. From the escarpment itself, there is a view of the Hel Spit and the port of

Gdynia. You can also easily reach the beach by car and park in the newly built

parking lot at ul. Orłowska (approx. 200 m from the pier), by SKM trains, by

trolleybus or by bus.

OLGA: Obligatorily – Kościuszko Square and one by one, as Marek mentioned, you

can visit ORP Błyskawica, Dar Pomorza, Dar Młodzieży, then Gdynia Aquarium. It is

worth walking down Świętojańska Street, then climb to Kamienna Góra to see the

panorama of the city and historic tenement houses.

There is also the only Emigration Museum

in Poland. The history of Polish emigration

was documented therein. The museum is

located in the building of the Sea Station,

from where many countrymen set out to

emigrate. Another interesting place is

Gdynia Aquarium, which presents the flora

and fauna associated with the aquatic

environment, was built on the Southern

Pier in 1938. The exhibition part of the

Aquarium is divided into 7 themed rooms.

In Gdynia Aquarium you can see unusual

species of fish, amphibians and reptiles

from various regions of the world. There

are 68 aquariums filled with 140 tons of

water. The aquarium is inhabited by over

1500 living organisms from about 250

species. You can find here, among others,

the specimens of rays, turtles, sharks,

mussels, fish from warm seas, snakes. The

Aquarium in Gdynia is one of the city's

biggest attractions. White fleet ships sail

from the South Pier to Hel, Gdańsk, Sopot

and Kaliningrad.

tLP: Where should the lovers of longer

walks go? Maybe on a trip to the Cliff in

Orłowo, reportedly one of the most

picturesque corners of Poland? Or to the

lookout point in Kamienna Góra from where

can you admire the panorama of the city?

MAREK: In a way, you answered this

question yourself. We can start the "longer

walk" just from admiring the panorama

from Kamienna Góra, from there, walking

towards the city beach along the

boulevard, we will reach the wild beach in

Redłowo, which in turn will lead us to the

fabulous Orłowo. The cliff in Orłowo is one

of the most picturesque corners of the

coast. It is best seen from the wooden pier

in Gdynia Orłowo. The pier is currently 180

meters long. It used to be a wooden bridge

that was built during World War I. In the

1930s, the pier was 30 meters long. In

1949, a storm destroyed the pier. After

renovation, only 180 meters of the pier

were put into use.

OLGA: Definitely, the trail from Redłowo to

the cliff in Orłowo is very popular among

tourists. A lot of people goes down this

12 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


stretch of beach. I recommend a walk through the

forest, views from the height to the sea confirm the

rumours of the picturesque character of this place. If

we get bored of the sea, it is worth visiting the forests

of Gdynia. Starting your trek in the Forest Plots

district, you can walk to the zoo in Gdansk. The

panorama of the city can be admired from the

viewpoint on Kamienna Góra, offering a magnificent

view of the port and the Bay of Gdańsk. Kamienna

Góra is a villa and park district of Gdynia. There are

lots of wonderful villas built in the 1920s and 1930s in

the neo-renaissance or neo-baroque style. Examples

of such places a include the villas: "Henryka" (ul.

Sędzickiego 8), "Nasz Domek" (ul. Sienkiewicza 5) or

"Szumka" (ul. Sienkiewicza 37).

tLP: Gdynia has also a rich cultural life to share. Do you

think that the extensive offer in this area has been

influenced by the fact that Gdynia recently received

the award for the quality of life and during the grand

final of the LivCom Awards 2019 it was on the podium

in the category of cities from 150 thousand up to 400

thousand residents? What interesting has Gdynia to

offer for culture lovers?

MAREK: For me, one of the most important cultural

events is the annual Polish Film Festival, which takes

place at the Music Theatre and Film Club at the Film

School in Gdynia (since 1986 – after moving – mainly

for political reasons – from Gdańsk).

OLGA: Absolute diversity! A lot of different cultural

events are organized throughout the year. Marek has

already mentioned the film festival.

On the music side, however, there is the Blues Festival,

Open'er, Cudawianki, Gdynia Classica Nova. Every year

in July, thousands of fans come to the airport in Babie

Doły for the Open'er where they have the chance to

admire the biggest music stars of different genres on

the festival stage. In turn, musical lovers visit the

Danuta Baduszkowa Musical Theatre.

This is the second music theatre in Poland after the

Grand Theatre in Warsaw in terms of the number of

seats in the audience. It may house over 1,580 people.

In the current repertoire of the theatre, you can find

world musical titles: "Notre Dame de Paris", "Saturday

Night Fever" or "Ghost", Polish musicals: "The

Witcher", "Peasants", or the musicals for children incl.

"Peter Pan", comedy performances and fairy-tales for

children. In the city centre, in a short walking

distance, we have two museums, a theatre and a film

centre. Cultural centres operate in the districts, tours

of the monuments are often

13 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


organised. For literature lovers (in Polish) there are

numerous meetings with authors, and the Fantasy

Discussion Club is also active.

tLP: Recently, we get quite a lot of questions from

readers related to the possibility of relaxing in Poland

with a dog, which is why we have dedicated a separate

text to it, apparently Gdynia also has its own dog beach.

Do you happen to visit it? Is it a popular walking place?

MAREK: The dog beach in Gdynia is definitely a nod to the

quadrupeds and their owners, thanks to the involvement

of two Gdynia councillors, a 100-meter beach strip where

dogs can freely use the natural goods, and the owners of

the pets share their experiences, was designated.

OLGA: I go there during hiking trips from Redłowo to

Orłowo. There is still strong interest in this place,

regardless of the season. A lot of dog owners and their

pets can also be found in the enclosure in Kolibki Park.

In the new part of the Central Park there is a fenced

enclosure, with a large airlock, and a running water which

have been put at the disposal of Gdynia pets.

tLP: To sum up, is it worth traveling a bit more kilometres

and visiting Gdynia, apart from Gdańsk and Sopot?

MAREK: It all depends from where you come from. I don't

want to favour this city, but I think Gdańsk and Sopot also

have a lot to offer. Given the fact that Gdańsk, Sopot and

Gdynia constitute the whole as a Tri-City, it is obvious to try

to visit the whole. Thank you for the conversation and I

invite you for a delicious beer that we have in ample supply

here.

OLGA: By all means. Gdańsk attracts with history and

monuments, Sopot is known for its night life and events.

Whereas in Gdynia you can relax, feel the space and most

importantly hear your own thoughts really close to the

centre, without giving up culture and fun.

thanks for a conversation

artur

14 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


Absolute diversity!

A lot of different cultural events

are organised throughout the year.

15 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


16 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

Gdynia. Photography by Marek Sałatowski


YEAR 1

WHITE

YEAR 1

YELLOW

www.facebook.com/MarekSalatowski

17 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


Gdynia

MAREK SAŁATOWSKI

www.facebook.com/MarekSalatowski

18 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


TOP 6 IN GDYNIA

www.gdynia.pl/turystyczna-en

01

Kosciuszko Square and the

Southern Pier

Known as Skwer Kościuszki in Polish,

it is the tourist hub of Gdynia. Built on

an artificial peninsula, the Southern

Pie, which stretches out far into the

sea, with John Paul II Avenue, is an

extension of the Square. The place

features a monument to Maritime

Poland, Modernist townhouses and a

fountain. The ORP Błyskawica

museum ship and the Dar Pomorza

sailing ship are moored at the quay; a

little farther ahead, you can see

Poland’s only Passenger Ship Avenue

and the Joseph Conrad monument,

with the Sails monument closer to the

sea.

02 The Gdynia Aquarium

03 Seaside Boulevard

The Aquarium is located at the end of

the Southern Pier (Molo Południowe),

which is an extension of Kościuszko

Square. It has over 1,500 animals of

250 species. All this in 68 tanks with

140 tonnes of water. Its seven rooms

showcase marine fish, amphibians and

reptiles, and even invertebrates from

all the seas of the world. Children are

in for a special treat: you can touch a

live fish, see how a coral reef forms

and find out how to protect the

marine environment.

www.akwarium.gdynia.pl

81-345 Gdynia, Al. Jana Pawła II 1

This popular walking track of the

length of 1522 m begins at the statue

of fish –the symbol of Gdynia. The

promenade running between the

Kamienna Góra and the sea – in the

shape that we use it today – was

made at the end of the 50s of the

previous century. In 2011, a

comfortable path will be put at the

disposal of bikers and skaters, one

rendering pedestrians no longer a

cumber to them. At the promenade

there also stands a monument ‘To

those who passed away to keep

eternal watch’, one commemorating

the victims of maritime disasters.

04 Passenger Terminal 05 Viewing tower - Mount Donas 06 The Orłowo Pier

The structure represents one of the

best known and most interesting

historic monuments of Gdynia. The

terminal can be admired at the

Nabrzeże Francuskie (French Quay)

of the port of Gdynia, next to the

Gdynia Harbourmaster’s Office. Built

in 1933, Dworzec Morski was designed

to serve the overseas passenger

traffic. It was here that the Batory

and the Stefan Batory berthed

besides other passenger ships.

Unfortunately, the building was

seriously damaged in 1943 when the

Allies bombed the port. Nearby the

terminal is the berthing place of the

biggest passenger ships of the world

whenever they call at Gdynia. From

2015, the Maritime Station is the

Emigration Museum.

81-339 Gdynia, Polska 1 Street

On the top of Gdynia’'s highest rise –

Mount Donas, at the height of 206 m

above sea level, there was constructed

an overlook platform from which one

can admire the picturesque Tri-City's

panorama. Overlook terrace is open to

the public from 1st April to the end of

October, between 8.00-18.00. On very

windy days, when the temperature

drops below 0°C and the elements of

the constructions get icy, in fog, rain

and snow or storms the tower is

closed.

Admission is free.

81-578 Gdynia, Łanowa Street

Orłowo is one of the most beautiful

neighbourhoods in Gdynia and the

local pier one of its main attractions.

Constructed in 1934, the pier was 430

m long and it was adjusted to receive

pleasure boats. With years it changed

its appearance and length. The latest

thorough repairs to it were made in

2007. Beginning form the year 1953,

the pier is 180 m long. One can admire

the Kępa Redłowska Cliff – one of

the oldest nature reserves in Poland –

from it. And the pier at Sopot, too. On

the little square at the entrance to

the pier is a bench on which Antoni

Suchanek, one of the prominent

seascape painters in Poland – sat

down, submerged in his work.

81-522 Gdynia, Orłowska Street

City Tourist Information

81-364 Gdynia, ul. 10 Lutego 24

The City Tourist Information is open throughout the year:

High season (01.05-30.09):

Monday – Friday 9.00-18.00

Saturday / Sunday / public holidays 9.00-16.00

Low season (01.10.-30.04):

Monday – Friday 9.00-17.00

Saturday 9.00-15.00

Sunday / public holidays closed.

www.gdynia.pl/turystyczna-pl

19 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


23 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


23 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


photo: Marek Sałatowski

"Dar Pomorza" (Gift of Pomerania), called the White Frigate, has been associated with Gdynia since 1929. The frigate was

given to the State Maritime School in Gdynia and became the second (after the "Lwów") cradle of Polish navigators.

Within her 51 years in the school "Dar Pomorza" took 102 school cruises, covering half a million sea miles. 13 384 students of

the Maritime School were trained on her decks.

On 4 August 1982 the "Dar Pomorza" was formally removed from school operations, and at the same time a flag was raised

on her successor "Dar Młodzieży" (the Gift of the Youth), designed and built in Gdańsk.



EMIGRATION MUSEUM

GDYNIA

source: www.polska1.pl/en

photos: press materils Emigration Museum Gdynia

The history of departures from the Polish lands is hundreds of

years old. People traveled to different parts of the world for

sustenance, in search of freedom, or for a different life. After

Poland regained its independence, this situation remained

unchanged. The journey was tackled on foot, by rail, aboard

ships or – later – airplanes. After Poland joined the European

Union, emigration became the experience of a generation of

millions of young Poles. Today, almost everyone knows someone

who chose emigration.

the birth of the first museum in the country dedicated to the

history of Polish emigration.

From the initiative of the city's authorities, the historical edifice

of the Marine Station – which witnessed the departures of Polish

ocean liners for decades – is now seeing the birth of an

institution which will recount the migrations and fates of Poles

in the world in close connection to the modernity. The history of

emigration is being written every day. Its multiple dimensions

will be presented through our permanent exhibition.

Today, there are more than 20 million people of Polish descent

in the outside world. What do we know about one of the most

important phenomena in Polish history? Can we save, from

oblivion, the memory of millions of people who instilled their

children and grandchildren with the remembrance of Poland?

Can we feel what other Poles felt, as they were leaving their

homes at the end of 18th century? Can we understand what it

meant to emigrate at the beginning of 21st century? And what

does emigration mean in the era of air travel? The only such

place in Poland Gdynia is witnessing the birth of the witnessing

The mission of the Emigration Museum in Poland is to recount

the fates of millions of both anonymous and famous people –

whose names emerge in the context of great achievements in

science, sports, business, and the arts. It is the ambition of this

institution to make them known to Poles at home, but it is also

to encourage our compatriots living at home and abroad to get

to know each other. Through educational and cultural projects,

the museum hopes to become a place of encounter and

discussion. We feel we fulfil a particular duty in achieving this

end at the best possible address – Polska Street No. 1.

24 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


Emigration

Museum,

Gdynia

Gdynia 81-339, Polska 1 St

biuro@muzeumemigracji.pl

Mon: Closed

Tues: 12.00-20.00

Wed-Sun: 10.00–18.00

Exhibition

Emigration Museum, Gdynia invite you to take a tour around our permanent exhibition, which tells the history of emigration from the Polish lands from the 19th century all

the way up to the present.It recounts the stories of Poles who emigrated at various periods, to various places and for various reasons. The narrative begins with the Great

Emigration, through the Industrial Revolution, mass emigration to the United States, life in the Brazilian jungle, society in Chicago, the dramatic fate of people during and

after World War Two, the difficult years of the Polish People's Republic, and ends in modern times with Poland joining the European Union. The exhibition allows you to

feel and understand what it meant to emigrate, it shows us the reality of a sea crossing for 3rd class passengers – from the moment of embarkation, through the voyage

itself, both on and below deck, all the way to the immigration procedures on the famous Ellis Island in the United States. Among the many attractions that await visitors,

there is a large multimedia installation of a globe dedicated to the Polish presence in the world, and the "Batory Under Construction" project, which features the world's

largest model of a passenger ship.



P E O P L E

a monument ?

the project:

the "Victory Fly Past" and The

Polish Resistance Memorial in

Kraków

A view of the "Victory Fly Past" airmen memorial dedicated to the Polish Air Force - Royal Air Force

situated in B-10 Plumetot, Normandy . The opening ceremony took place on the 9th of June 2019.

Design: Alexander Smaga

I am beyond excited about this project because I put my heart

and soul into designing the memorial and I think my Polish

ancestors would be very proud of me. I designed the memorial

to show the great achievement that the Polish pilots achieved

at D-DAY 1944 although their story is little known. The Polish

Air Force squadrons that fought during D-DAY formed the 131

Polish Wing which consisted of the No. 302 City of Poznan,

the No. 308 City of Kraków Squadron and No. 317 City of

Wilno Squadron. On 6th of June 1944, 131 Polish Wing, as part

of the 2nd Tactical Air Force, was tasked with providing low

cover cover to American forces landing on Utah beach at 6.30.

Throughout the whole Normandy campaign the Polish Air

Force pilots fought alongside the Royal Air Force pilots. I was

inspired to design the memorial as a ‘V’sign a sign for 'Victory'

or ‘Victoire’in french. The V sign was a gesture displayed by

Churchill to acknowledge victory over the Germans during

WWII. Bridging tradition and contemporary architectural

sculpture design, the memorial combines computer-generated

geometry inspired by aircraft design, and specially crafted

cast metal elements. During the design process preference

was given to the idea of a memorial that would recall the

experience and exciting atmosphere surrounding aircraft and

the art of flying. The Victory ‘V’ stands on a round square

(radius: 4 m) made from Caen stone in the shape of the Royal

Air Force Roundel. The memorial sculpture pays tribute to the

design of WWII aircraft as it is cast from shiny polished

stainless steel which will recall the shiny surfaces in the

construction phase of aircraft during WWII at the time of the

Invasion of Normandy. The memorial design focuses on the

aesthetics and elegant curves of WWII aircraft and the design

of the Spitfire and the Hurricane. The V-shaped memorial and

its round base with the shape of the RAF symbol is easily

visible from an aircraft flying overhead. Seven strands of

metal cable suspend a series of three Spitfires. A 1:1 mock up

model of the V-sign was carried out to adjust the suspension

of the Spitfire during the construction works at the steel

plant. The airmen memorial owes its light appearance to this

experimental approach thanks to which details could be

reduced. The aircraft were specially pierced to be able to clip

effortlessly to the cables. The Spitfires are cast of metal and

represent respectively 302, 308 and 317 Squadrons of the

Polish Air Force Squadrons which were based at Plumetot and

served over Normandy in 1944. I wanted the Polish Air

Force memorial to be created in Poland. We chose a

steel plant in Kraków. In order to honour the work that had

gone into creating the memorial and to give the memorial a

spiritual blessing we invited the Archbishop of Krakow to

bless the memorial prior to it's journey from Poland across

Europe to France which was about 1000km. he launch for the

memorial took place by kind invitation at the Polish Aviation

Museum in Kraków and the event was a great place to invite

27 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


A L E X A N D E R S M A G A

P O L I S H F O O T P R I N T S

The Polish Resistance Memorial, Kraków

our partners and project producers to attend and to give a

farewell before its departure to France which included

senators and officials from The City of Kraków, The Polish Air

Force Committee in London, The Institute of National

Remembrance (IPN), The Ribbon of Memory Foundation and

many other guests.

tLP: Alexander – are there any other projects you are

working on in Poland ?

AS: We are currently working on a project to build the Polish

WWII Resistance Memorial in Kraków, Poland. Initiated by the

Polish WWII Veterans with the support of the City of Kraków

and President of Poland this project remains close to my

heart especially since it is dedicated to honouring the Polish

Home Army (Armia Krajowa) and in effect my own family who

fought so bravely during WWII. The project was initiated by

the Polish WWII Veterans with the support of the City of

Krakow and President of Poland. This project remains

particularly close to my heart especially since it is dedicated

to honouring the Polish Home Army (Armia Krajowa) and in

effect my own family who fought so bravely during WWII. In

2013 I won the International competition to build it and we

are in the process of realising the project. The Memorial will

be an important urban landmark, easily visible from the

Wawel the Royal Castle.

We were inspired by the shape of Poland’'s borders before the

outbreak of the Second World War. The memorial is an

unfolding meandering ribbon made of Corten steel that

symbolizes the spirit of a rising power of resistance is

dedicated to Polish WWII Allied resistance fighters. A border

line will cut through the square depicting the Molotov-

Ribbentrop agreement which marked the division of Poland

between the Nazis and the Soviets. This memorial pays

tribute to the brave people of the Polish Home Army who

fought for the freedom and independence of their country in

the face of adversity. At the very top end of the ribbon, the

symbol of the Polish resistance movement the Kotwica

(anchor) takes prime position. The Ribbon of Memory will be

a place for contemplation, reflection and celebration of the

heritage of the Polish Home Army for future generations. At

the very top end of the ribbon, the symbol of the Polish

resistance movement the Kotwica takes prime position. The

Ribbon of Memory will be a place for contemplation and

celebration of the heritage of the Polish Home Army for

future generations. The current situation is in the hands of

the City of Kraków and Mayor of Kraków Jacek Majchrowski

has made a promise to the WWII Veterans of the Polish Home

Army to build the memorial during their lifetime. If anybody

wishes to find out more about this project please contact the

City of Kraków details below.

28 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


A L E X A N D E R S M A G A

P O L I S H F O O T P R I N T S

Letters of support are always welcome.

e-mail: prezydent@um.krakow.pl

Prezydent Miasta Krakowa: Jacek Majchrowski

Contact with Kraków City Council: Urząd Miasta Krakowa,

Wydział Komunikacji Społecznej:

Plac Wszystkich Świętych 3-4, 31-004 Kraków

tLP: From a different perspective, looking at the media

broadcasts, Polish pilots and troops are not really ‘present’ or

recognised when it comes to the Normandy invasion. Do you

think the Monument can influence our common memory ?

AS: The projects that we create at AS architects have

contemporary themes and aim to connect directly with their

audiences. We are interested in creating contemporary and

yet classical timeless architecture that can link with all ages

and internationally. The Polish Air Force Memorial has a

distinctly contemporary feel and that is why it was chosen for

the project.We were honoured to have won the competition

and the jury displayed great vision and courage by choosing our

design. We faced challenges creating the memorial as we had

to organise parts of the funding as well as designing it. It was a

passion project for me and one that I hold very close to my

heart. The legacy of the project is already taking shape as this

year 2020 marks the 80th anniversary of the Battle of Britain

and for this years work we are creating another great project

inspired by the success of the Polish Air Force memorial.

In 2020 we are currently creating a new project of a mobile

memorial in cooperation with the Polish Embassy in London

and the Polish Air Force Memorial Committee. It is called the

'Propeller of Memory''' We have just started a crowdfunding

page and in addition to additional funds we will be touring

this mobile installation around historical sites of the Battle of

Britain such as RAF Northolt station, The Battle of Britain

Bunker in Uxbridge, Biggin Hill, Duxford, Portsmouth,

Plymouth and many other places around England.

We would like to invite as many people as possible to pay

homage to the WWII Polish Pilots to honour their contribution

as flying aces in The Battle of Britain as 2020 marks the

80th anniversary.

We invite people to join, participate and support our project

throughout the month of March 2020 here at this link which

is the Polish crowdfunding site at Polak Potrafi.

www.polakpotrafi.pl/projekt/zwycieskilot

The page will be operational from 3 March 2020 to 2 April

2020!

See you all at the opening at the occasion of BoB80 !

For more info please visit :

AS Architects : www.alexander-smaga.com

The Ribbon of Memory Foundation : www.wstegapamieci.com

29 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


festivals

press materials Darek Oleszkiewicz fot. Dunvael Photography

ON THE ODRA FESTIVAL

JAZZ

music feast


JAZZ ON THE ODRA FESTIVAL. THE 56TH JAZZ ON THE ODRA FESTIVAL

ANNOUNCING THE LINE-UP OF THE OPENING CONCERT

SOURCE: PRESS MATERIALS, WWW.JAZZNADODRA.PL

dates and

places

Start: 20th of April (Monday)

Finish: 26th of April (Sunday)

Place: Impart, Festival Club

You can purchase the tickets at: www.jazznadodra.pl

This year's edition of the Jazz on the Odra Festival will be

opened by the world premiere of the album by a unique

ensemble, as well as a Polish pianist dubbed the new hope of

jazz. Możdżer Danielsson Fresco Trio & Holland Baroque and

Kasia Pietrzko Trio are going to perform for us at the National

Forum of Music.

On Monday evening, join the staff of the Wrocław Culture Zone

for the opening concert of the 56th Jazz on the Odra Festival.

We are going to start with the concert of a young pianist,

arranger and composer, who has been enjoying nothing but

enthusiastic reviews since Fortright Stories, her 2017 debut

album. Apart from the artist, the Kasia Pietrzko Trio project's

line-up comprises Piotr Budniak, drummer and composer with a

long resume of musical achievements, as well as Andrzej Święs,

leading double bass player of the young generation of the Polish

jazz scene. Their compositions are fresh, clear and transparent,

and their music is characterised by their extraordinary attention

to the best sound quality.

The evening will be crowned by a unique ensemble of artists,

including the artistic director of the festival, joined by

Swedish bassist and cellist Lars Danielsson and Israeli

drummer Zohar Fresco, accompanied by the Holland Baroque

orchestra. The projects created by the Możdżer Danielsson

Fresco Trio are always unique and surprising. Music lovers

appreciate their productions for their subtle and refined

sound, as well as for achieving harmony between

improvisation, which is a crucial element of jazz, and melodic

accessibility. The trio has released three studio albums: The

Time, which has since turned platinum, as well as Between Us

and the Light and Polska, which achieved double platinum

status. This time around, the musicians invited the Holland

Baroque orchestra, with whom Leszek Możdżer recorded his

Earth Particles album in 2017. The concert at the National

Forum of Music will be a premiere of their new album, as well

as the opening of the concert tour organised in connection

with the new release.

Chris Potter fot. Dave Stapleton press materials

Mariusz Bogdanowicz fot. press materials

Y o u c a n p u r c h a s e t h e t i c k e t s a t :

w w w . j a z z n a d o d r a . p l

31 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


the programme of the

56th Jazz on the Odra Festival

“Radiohead of British Jazz,” contemporary saxophone

virtuoso, a Wrocław band with their Slavic melancholy

and an electrifying diva of soul and jazz – we have the

names of artists featured at this year’s Jazz on the Odra

Festival.

This year, the Wrocław Culture Zone would like to invite

everybody for an entire week filled with jazz – the festival is

now two days longer, and the added time was filled to the brim

with music. The opening concert (20 April) at the National

Forum of Music will feature the Kasia Pietrzko Trio and the

Możdżer Danielsson Fresco Trio & Holland Baroque. The latter

will showcase their latest release – Just Ignore It, and the

concert will launch a new tour promoting the album.

Meanwhile, Mazowiecka 17 will once again host a multitude of

stars of Polish and world jazz, including China Moses (23 April)

– soul and jazz singer who can swing at the highest level,

daughter of Dee Dee Bridgewater, an unquestioned icon of jazz

music.

A day later, we will have an opportunity to listen to the sounds

of Chris Potter, contemporary saxophone virtuoso, dubbed

“one of the best researched (and copied) saxophonists in the

world” by the Down Beat magazine. The Impart stage will once

again host the Wrocław-based EABS (25 April), this time

showcasing their Slavic Spirits, inspired by Slavic mythology

and Polish demonology – the concert will feature some

mysterious guests. On the last day of the festival, we will get

to see GoGo Penguin – a Manchester trio, whose work is

equally influenced by rock, jazz, electronic and minimalist music.

And these are just some of the concerts featured in the main

programme of the festival.

Of course, there will be something new – the JAZZ’off Free

Jazz Stage (21 April), presenting three versatile bands: Jerzy

Mączyński – Jerry & The Pelican System, Kwaśny Deszcz and

MALEDIWY. Thanks to its unwavering popularity, the Open Air

Stage will be set up once again in front of Impart – for the

third consecutive year. This time, free concerts will be available

from Friday to Sunday (24-26 April), and the full concert

programme will be announced soon. As always, you can count

on a multitude of accompanying events – exhibitions, special

meetings and performances in the urban space, as well as the

ever-popular Jam Sessions – music-filled nights with artists

and listeners.

Festival tickets and passes can be purchased at Wrocław

Culture Zone ticket offices, at www.jazznadodra.pl,

www.strefakultury.pl, www.eventim.pl as well as Empik and

Media Markt stores across the country.

Tickets will be available on: 20 January, 12:00 p.m. PLEASE

NOTE: Tickets for the opening concert are now available!

The organizer reserves the right to make changes to the

event programme.

20th of April (Monday)

National Forum of Music, 7:00 p.m.

56. Jazz nad Odrą: opening concert

1st set: Kasia Pietrzko Trio

2nd set: Możdżer Danielsson Fresco Trio & Holland Baroque

21st of April (Tuesday)

Impart, small stage, 6:00 p.m.

Marianna Wróblewska with Friends: Memories

Impart, main stage, 7:00 p.m.

JAZZ'off stage

1st set: Jerzy Mączyński – Jerry & The Pelican System

2nd set: Kwaśny Deszcz

3rd set: MALEDIWY

22nd of April (Wednesday)

Impart, main stage, 7:00 p.m.

1st set: Valeriy Stepanov Band

2nd set: Walk Away

Impart, small stage, 10:30 p.m.

Elec-Tri-City

Impart, festival club, 11:00 p.m.

Jam session

23rd of April (Thursday)

Impart, main stage, 7:00 p.m.

1st set: Piotr Wojtasik: VOICES

2nd set: China Moses

Impart, small stage, 10:30 p.m.

Kuba Banaszek Quartet

Impart, festival club, 11:00 p.m.

Jam session

24th of April (Friday)

Impart, small stage, 2:00 p.m.

Jazz Personality Contest 2020 – 1st day of the auditions

Impart, main stage, 7:00 p.m.

1st set: Peter Erskine - Alan Pasqua - Darek Oleszkiewicz

2nd set: Chris Potter & Craig Taborn Duo

Impart, small stage , 10:30 p.m.

Mariusz Bogdanowicz Quintet

Impart, festival club, 11:00 p.m.

Jam session

25th of April (Saturday)

Impart, small stage, 12:00 (noon)

Jazz Personality Contest 2020 – 2nd day of the auditions

Impart, main stage, 6:00 p.m.

1st set: 2020 Grand Prix Laureate

2nd set: EABS Slavic Spirits & Guests

Impart, small stage , 10:30 p.m.

Emil Miszk & The Sonic Syndicate

Impart, festival club, 11:00 p.m.

Jam session

26th of April (Sunday)

Impart, main stage, 6:00 p.m.

1st set: E.J. Strickland Quintet

2nd set: GoGo Penguin

Impart, small stage , 10:30 p.m.

Daniel Toledo - Kuba Więcek - Michał Miśkiewicz - Piotr Orzechowski

Impart, festival club, 11:00 p.m.

Jam session

32 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


56th Jazz on the Odra Festival

Walk Away fot. press materials

Chór Synagogi, Piotr Wojtasik fot. Sławek Przerwa

Valeriy Stepanov Band fot. press materials

China Moses fot. Sylvain Norget Maksymilian Olszewski fot. Dunvael Photography GoGo Penguin fot. Yvonne Schmedemann

China Moses fot. Sylvain Norget

33 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


SOURCE: PRESS MATERIALS

city and

art

Malta Festival Poznań stands for 10 days and 300 events in

almost 50 locations. Every year, the festival draws

approximately 85 000 people as its audience, as well as 700

artists and culture animators from all over the world. The year

2020 will be special in its history - it will mark its 30th edition.

We invite you to join us between 19 and 28 June to Poznań to

celebrate Malta Festival's birthday!

For 30 years Matla has been a celebration combining the mutual

dynamics of city and art, year after year featuring the work of

world-renowned artists and initiating unique artistic projects. Its

program has always comprised of theatre and dance

performances, open-air concerts, exhibitions in abandoned

buildings, workshops, happenings on city streets, meetings at

the festival club, film screenings, silent discos, as well as

inspiring activities for children and adults. Malta Festival Poznań

was the only festival in Poland and one of 12 in Europe to

receive the EFFE 2015-2016 award for events setting festival

trends.

The most prominent European artists and trend-setters for

new theatrical languages have been present at Malta since

the beginning. The jubilee edition will feature those who have

become especially important for Malta and have always been

warmly received by the Poznań audience. Melting pot,

urbanity, combination of strands and forms, cooperation with

locals, city as a subject of art, multidisciplinarity – these are

the values constantly present at Malta and comprising its

philosophy, which are most apparent in the program of

Malta.Generator. It is the social and artistic section of the

festival, which centres around Liberty Square, although its

activity generates all over Poznań. For the 8th time the citycentre

will change into a “temporary open-air culture centre”,

which will host many festival events. It is the location of

morning warm-ups, spontaneous meetings of Poznanians,

conversations of the public with invited guests, creative and

inventive energy at the workshops, and at night – a club zone

with concerts and an open-air theatre stage. Malta Generator

is a friendly space for festival guests and all city-dwellers

regardless of their age or social status, inclusive for people

with disabilities and foreigners who don’t speak Polish.

34 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

t h e f u l l p r o g r a m m e a n d t i c k e t s w i l l b e a v a i l a b l e a s o f 1 9 t h M a y

Y o u c a n p u r c h a s e t h e t i c k e t s a t :

w w w . m a l t a - f e s t i v a l . p l / e n


This year’s visual concept is brought to us, for the fifth time, by the Poznań-based Studio Bękarty: Marcin

Matuszak and Krzysztof Ignasiak.

The 30th anniversary of Malta Festival is a one-of-its-kind

opportunity to review meanings and recycle symbols. Every

Malta has been different containing multiple worlds. The visual

identification of the anniversary edition, just as the festival

itself, combines many different concepts: it plays with what is

already there while revealing a new face. This year's visual

concept is brought to us, for the fifth time, by the Poznańbased

Studio Bękarty. Marcin Matuszak and Krzysztof Ignasiak

propose a reinterpretation of Malta’s posters, typography and

image, showing its many faces and connotations. Meet Juno.

The visual concept contains many aesthetic riddles, motifs

drawn from the archive of posters, which the keen eye of the

festival audience is bound to spot. A piece of a mask from the

poster of Malta's first edition in 1991, created by Krzysztof

Dziamski and Maciej Koszela. Or the iconic ‘Malta tune,’ written

for the 1998 festival by composer and director Jerzy

Satanowski, featured in this year's festival spot produced by

Studio Kineza. Our search for the anniversary persona led us to

the source, to antiquity where theatre was born. There, we

discovered a Roman goddess: queen of the gods, of community

and vitality; the guardian of beauty; our inspiration and your

advisor. Juno. Our heroine. May she watch over us. All three

posters show lips and eyes: the senses of the festival and the

audience. Observers and critics of the past thirty years.

Focused and ambiguous. Capable of uttering various words,

reflecting emotions and attracting opinions of unpredictable

temperature. The senses with which we experience the festival

and its art.The anniversary Malta recycles the past and creates

a collage of its thirty editions. Let this be a new portrait of the

future.

For 30 years Matla has been a celebration combining the

mutual dynamics of city and art, year after year featuring the

work of world-renowned artists and initiating unique artistic

projects. Its program has always comprised of theatre and

dance performances, open-air concerts, exhibitions in

abandoned buildings, workshops, happenings on city streets,

meetings at the festival club, film screenings, silent discos, as

well as inspiring activities for children and adults. Malta Festival

Poznań was the only festival in Poland and one of 12 in Europe

to receive the EFFE 2015-2016 award for events setting

festival trends. The most prominent European artists and

trend-setters for new theatrical languages have been present

at Malta since the beginning. The jubilee edition will feature

those who have become especially important for Malta and

have always been warmly received by the Poznań audience. We

want Malta’s 30th to be a pretext for celebration for us all!

Together with the artists and the inhabitants of Poznań we

shall prepare a special birthday surprise party, the location and

the details of which shall remain a secret right up to the end. A

great spectacle is in the works! The premiere concert of

“Projekt Krynicki” created by three renowned and celebrated

composers – Paweł Szymański, Paweł Mykietyn and Alek

Nowak, will be a special musical event of the festival. Upon

Malta’s special request each of them will prepare music to a

different poem by Ryszard Krynicki – an artist associated with

Poznań and one of the most important figures in Polish

contemporary poetry. As “the most musical of theatre

festivals”, apart from a contemporary music concert, Malta will

also feature a cycle of open concerts and silent discos on

Liberty Square, as well as an open-air concert-finale. It will not

only be a concert ending this year's edition of the festival, but

also a gala concluding its 30th anniversary. Melting pot,

urbanity, combination of strands and forms, cooperation with

locals, city as a subject of art, multidisciplinarity – these are

the values constantly present at Malta and comprising its

philosophy, which are most apparent in the program of

Malta.Generator. It is the social and artistic section of the

festival, which centres around Liberty Square, although its

activity generates all over Poznań. For the 8th time the citycentre

will change into a “temporary open-air culture centre”,

which will host many festival events. It is the location of

morning warm-ups, spontaneous meetings of Poznanians,

conversations of the public with invited guests, creative and

inventive energy at the workshops, and at night – a club zone

with concerts and an open-air theatre stage. Malta Generator

is a friendly space for festival guests and all city-dwellers

regardless of their age or social status, inclusive for people

with disabilities and foreigners who don't speak Polish. Dance

is an important element of performative arts at Malta. For

many years Art Station Foundation by Grażyna Kulczyk, i.e.

Stary Browar Nowy Taniec at Malta, has been one of the most

elaborate partner programs of the festival. The curator,

Joanna Leśnierowska, collaborates with the most celebrated

Polish dancers, important figures from Europe and from

around the world. She also makes space for young artists, to

give them an opportunity to create their premiere

performances at a large international festival.

Come to Poznań for the 30th edition of Malta festival, which

will take place from 19 to 28 June 2020. The whole program

will be announced in May at press conferences, before that

selected program info will be published on www.maltafestival.pl/en.

35 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


The Magura National Park

official park page: www.magurskipn.pl

Warszawa

WORDS BY

Bartosz Dubiel

PHOTOS BY

Bartosz Dubiel | Facebook: www.facebook.com/bartoszdubielfotografia

www.bartoszdubiel.wordpress.com

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Kraków

Rzeszów

The

Magura

National

Park

Bartosz Dubiel: born in 1986. My hobby and a real passion is nature

photography. I photograph mainly landscapes, flora and fauna – mainly the

species occurring in Poland. The Low Beskids and Bieszczady are the regions

closest to my heart. This is where I prefer to photograph. I also take many

photos in the vicinity of my home. The most important thing in my photos is

the light. Most of my photos are taken at dawn or even before dawn, or at

sunset. I strive to show, with the help of light, nature in an unreal and

extraordinary way. Interesting light settings in nature photography can turn

even the simplest object into an unobvious character.

TLP: Bartosz, is the Magura National Park a kind of a magnet

attracting tourists to Jasło County? What is the main thing that

attracts tourists here? I guess it's probably peace and quiet, isn't it?

Which part of the Park is, in your opinion, the most attractive -

apparently for those who value real peace, the southern part of the

Park is the best choice?

BD: The Magura National Park (MPN) and its buffer zone are

certainly less popular among tourists coming from the north of

Poland than, for example, Bieszczady National Park. And yet MPN is

an area of great interest in terms of ethnographic and historical

values. The fact that there are not such big crowds of tourists there

favours spending time in the bosom of nature, in silence. This is i the

undoubted advantage of the Park. As a borderland - it is a place of

interpenetration of many cultures. It is this element that proves the

uniqueness of the region. Monuments of sacred architecture of the

West Lemko style are unseen anywhere else - these are for example

the churches in Krempna, Kotania, Bartne, Wołowiec, Pielgrzymka,

Świątkowa Wielka and Świątkowa Mała. Certainly the southern part

of the Park is calmer – away from larger cities, with smaller

population. In the south, there are very interesting non-forest areas

(pastures and meadows), which are a remnant of the arable fields of

Lemko villages abandoned as part of the "Vistula" campaign, e.g. in

Ciechań, Żydowskie or Rozstajne. In the closer north, we may

encounter strict protection areas of the Park, for example: "Magura

Wątkowska" with the catchment of the Kłopotnica stream near

Folusz or "Kamień" (ideal habitat for wildcats).


The "Zimna Woda" (Cold Water) strict protection area is also

very interesting. This is an area with a difficult history - the

region of the former Death Valley, where over 100,000 people

died during the attack of the Red Army on the Dukla Pass. So it

can certainly be said that the entire MPN area is very

interesting, although it is not a Park with a typical scenic

characteristics due to the fact that it is the most forested Park

of all located in Poland – for this reason, perhaps, it is less

popular than others.

TLP: What are the most valuable places worth recommending in

the Magura National Park? The Magura Waterfall or maybe the

Devil's Stone as there are many legends associated with it? Is it

easy to reach them? Are the trails well marked?

BD: The Magura Waterfall or the Devil's Stone are the most

popular places in the Magura National Park – not necessarily the

most valuable. The most valuable natural areas are the areas of

strict protection which I mentioned above. Orthodox churches

are another valuable treasure of the Park and its buffer zone. If

someone would like to see a little wild park, I recommend to go

to the Ciechania valley, for example – you can go there after

meeting the conditions set by the MPN management. Ciechania

used to be once a Lemko village, the name of which can be

translated as a 'quiet place'. This is one of the most beautiful

valleys of the Low Beskids. As for the trails, it must be said that

they are pretty well-marked. Just a few years ago, in my opinion,

marking of the trails in MPN was a bit 'lame'. Currently, there is

no major problem to reach the Magurski Waterfall or the Devil

Stone. From the nearby town of Folusz, the march would take

from several minutes to about an hour. At www.magurskipn.pl

we you can learn about the rules of getting around the Park, and

about all the trails.

TLP: What is the best way to visit the park? There are probably

not many attractions here, which can be quickly reached by car,

moving from place to place, such as in some of the Tatra valleys

or in Lesser Poland (we have several parks there and attractive

towns at the same time). Well, hiking is probably the best of

available options?

BD: It depends By car, you can safely follow the wooden

architecture trail – a part of which runs through MPN. This route

is 113 km long and leads from Sanok to the south to Rzepedź

and Komańcza, and then turns towards Jaśliska, Dukla to

Krempna and further west, through Nowy Żmigród to

Pielgrzymka. It runs almost entirely through areas inhabited in

the past by the Lemko population and shows two basic types of

Lemko religious architecture: East and West Lemko style. When

it comes to learning about natural values, walking is definitely

the best form of visiting MPN. Cycling may also be an interesting

alternative. Generally, we have a choice of hiking trails,

bike trails and horse trails, which is a very interesting

form of visiting the Park. The most important thing when

walking up the trails is to follow the park's regulations,

which are available on its website.

TLP: Is there heavy tourist traffic here during the year?

In what months is it the largest? Our conversation takes

place in the spring – but when would you recommend

visiting the Park?

BD: My observations show that the traffic in the Park is

not very heavy. However, it must be noted that it is

increasing. This is probably due to the fact that people,

following their desire to escape from the hustle and

bustle, start to avoid the crowded Tatra trails and

Bieszczady mountain pastures. Of course, traffic in the

Park is the highest in summer, as probably in every

National Park. I personally love to visit the Park in the fall.

Then, the old-growth Carpathian beech forest that

dominates here, takes on magnificent colours from yellow

through gold and orange to red. It looks fabulous. On

autumnal days you can meet there a spotted salamander,

which is an interesting object for photographing. When it

comes to photographing in the Park, remember to follow

the rules of photography and filming regulations in force

for the Magura National Park.

TLP: This question is somewhat related to one of the

earlier ones, namely: What do you think – what is the

Park's biggest tourist attraction – taking into account

natural and landscape values? The logo of the park with a

lesser spotted eagle suggests that this might be its

wildlife? Is it only this?

BD: The Magura National Park has a typical forest

character. Forest and shrub communities occupy approx.

95% of the Park's area, providing a rich variety of flora

species. In addition to vegetation, the park is also rich in

fauna, represented by all large predators found in Poland.

We will find wolves, bears or lynxes here. In the Park we

will also meet the amazing wealth of avifauna (approx.

150 species) including a golden eagle, an Ural owl, a black

stork, a buzzard or a lesser spotted eagle, which is the

symbol of MPN. Flora and fauna are certainly the greatest

treasure of the Park. However, apart from flora and

fauna, cultural and historical heritage is very valuable

here. The oldest trace of human presence in this part of

the Low Beskids are the remains of the fortified

settlement in Brzezowa at the foot of Magura

Wątkowska (Park buffer zone).

37 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


There are also numerous chapels, obviously worth seeing, as well

as stone crosses and roadside figures. They are most often made

by local craftsmen, using local stone. In some villages, you can

still find original Lemko huts, so-called "chyże".

TLP: Do you think that the tourist offer of the county and the

Park itself is satisfactory for tourists coming here? Is there

sufficient accommodation base and enough catering facilities? Is

it true that Magura is a place for people who prefer a somewhat

'old-fashioned way of tourism' and communing with nature alone

- without pensions, hotels, carriages, shops and restaurants?

BD: he area of the Park and its buffer zone is undoubtedly one of

a kind. To find out, you have to come to this place yourself. Then

it is easier for a man to understand that this area should be

visited slowly. There are perhaps no high peaks as in the Tatras

or scenic peaks as in the Bieszczady Mountains, because most of

the Park's richness is forested valleys in which the history of the

region was written. The history of Lemko culture related to

tragic displacements was created in these valleys.

The Low Beskids are full of abandoned villages,

cemeteries overgrown with rushes, folk tradition and

folklore. Because of this, as you put it, the "oldfashioned

way of tourism" is right here. In my opinion,

the tourist offer is optimal due to the characteristics

of this region. But this is only my opinion – I prefer to

relax away from people and I value direct contact with

nature, unspoilt by human hands. It must be

remembered that all guesthouses, hotels, carriages,

shops and restaurants quite strongly interfere with the

natural environment. I prefer unspoiled and virgin

nature.

you Bartosz for a chat

thank

artur

Magurski National

Park's landscape is

typical of the Beskid

Niski ridge and consists

mainly of heavily

forested low and

medium peaks.

38 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


MAGURA

nature

39 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


T H E M A G U R A N A T I O N A L P A R K

B Y B A R T O S Z D U B I E L

W W W . B A R T O S Z D U B I E L . W O R D P R E S S . C O M

Ruins of water mill in Mymoń

The oldest trace of human settlement in this area are remains of a stronghold at Brzezowa, on the Walik

mountain. It was part of the system of strongholds built by the Wislanie tribe in the 9th century on the

Southern border of their lands. Also, one can find small, wooden Orthodox churches, which were built by the

eastern Slavic Lemkos. Unfortunately, some of these buildings are ruined. In one of the farmers’ huts, at the

village of Kolonia Olchowiec, there is a small, private museum of Lemko culture. There are also numerous

cemeteries from World War I, as this area was for a long time a battleground between the Russian and Austro-

German armies. A tragic reminder of World War II is the cemetery of 1250 Jews, who were killed by the Nazis in

1942 at the Halbów pass. The Park has its headquarters in the village of Krempna.

40 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


MAGURA

nature

41 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


Church of Saint Michael the Archangel, Ceklin

Ceklin Parish was established in 1485 and its first permanent church was consecrated in

1542. The current church was built in 1897-1903 and consecrated in 1904.In 1890, Cieklin

Parish and its villages were in the Jaslo administrative district and Zmigrod township

(gmina). Jewish residents worshipped in Cieklin. There were Greek Catholic residents in

Cielkin, Folusz, and Wola Cieklinska and they worshipped in Wola Cielkinska.


The Magura National Park

by Bartosz Dubiel

www.bartoszdubiel.wordpress.com


T H E M A G U R A N A T I O N A L P A R K

B Y B A R T O S Z D U B I E L

W W W . B A R T O S Z D U B I E L . W O R D P R E S S . C O M

The Magura National Park is of the forest character. The forest and shrub communities cover 93,79% of the Park’s territory, while

the non-forest communities – natural and synanthropic cover only 6,21% of the area.

In the MNP 57 plant communities in the rank of the association or other equivalent units were distinguished. Forests and shrubs

are represented by 16 natural communities and several tree stand of a forecrop type not yet included in particular associations.

Waterfall in Wisłoczek

Wisłoczek is a village in the administrative district of Gmina Rymanów, within Krosno County, Subcarpathian Voivodeship, in southeastern

Poland. It lies approximately 6 km (4 mi) south of Rymanów, 21 km (13 mi) south-east of Krosno, and 59 km (37 mi) south

of the regional capital Rzeszów.

44 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


MAGURA

nature

45 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


T H E M A G U R A N A T I O N A L P A R K

B Y B A R T O S Z D U B I E L

W W W . B A R T O S Z D U B I E L . W O R D P R E S S . C O M

view from Folusz village on Cieklin

From Folusz you have a number of trail choices including

Folusz village – Waterfall 40’

Folusz village – Mrukowa village 2h 30’

Folusz is a village in the administrative district of Gmina Dębowiec, within Jasło County, Subcarpathian Voivodeship, in southeastern

Poland. It lies approximately 10 kilometres south-west of Dębowiec, 16 km south-west of Jasło, and 65 km south-west of

the regional capital Rzeszów.

46 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


MAGURA

nature

47 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


T H E M A G U R A N A T I O N A L P A R K

B Y B A R T O S Z D U B I E L

W W W . B A R T O S Z D U B I E L . W O R D P R E S S . C O M

Animal life is very rich in the Park – there are 137 species of birds, including several endangered such as

the eagle and eagle-owl as well as the stork. There are also 35 endangered mammal species including the brown

bear (they roam back and forth between Poland and Slovakia), lynx, wildcat, wolf and otter. One can also

find fish, snakes, salamanders and numerous insects. It is estimated that within the Park there are 200 species of

endangered animals.

Flora and fauna are

certainly the greatest

treasure of the Park.

48 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


MAGURA

nature

49 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND



The Magura National Park

Photo by Bartosz Dubiel

www.bartoszdubiel.wordpress.com



Jewish Cementary in New Żmigród

(Nowy Żmigród)

To the 4th memorial day (yahrzeit) of the slaughter of the

Jews of Zmigrod

Tuesday, July 7, 1942“

In life and death the Jews of Zmigrod were never separated”

(Biblical quotation referring to the friendship of Jonathan and

David)With a broken heart and an injured soul,

head bowed, I memorialise today the 1,200, Saintly Jews from

our township who were so cruelly murdered by the

killers.Before my eyes appears the picture of my little hamlet;

the synagogue, the study center, the precious children with

their shining black eyes,

their curled side curls.In my ears ring the sweet little voices

And from the Eastern wall (in the synagogue, we hear)

“Amen, May his Great Name…”

(A line from the Kaddish repeated by the congregation)From all

this nothing remains but a heap of earth on top of the big

family grave on the hill of Halbow

Where the book (of History) of Zmigroder Jews is located.

צום ‎4‎טן יארצייט פון די

זמיגראדער קדושיםכ’ב תמוז תש’ב

‏’הנאהבים והנעימים בחייהם ובמותם לא נפרדו‘‏

‏;מיט א צעבראכן הארץ און א פארווונדיקטער נשומה

‏;מיט א געבויגענעם קאף דערמאן איך היינט

‏;די 1200 קדושים פון אונזער שטעטל

‏;וועלעכע זענען אויף אן אכזריוודיקען אויפן אומגעקומען

דורך די רוצחישע הענטפאר מיינע אויגן שטייט דאס בילד

פון מיין שטעטעלע,‏

די שול,‏ דאס בית המדרש,‏

די כשרע קינדערלעך מיט שווארצע חיינעוודיקע אייגלעך,‏

און שווארצע געלאקטע פאהלעך

אין מיינע אוירען קלינגען זייערע זיסע שטימעלעך.‏

פון דער מזרח וואנט אמן,‏ יהא שמה רבא…‏

פון דעם אלעם איז היינט נישט מער

געבליבן ווי א בארג ערד

אויף דעם גרויסען פאמיליע גרוב

אויפן האלבעווער בארג

דארט ווו עס געפינט זיך דער ספר פון זמיגראדער

יידןיהושע צימעט


PLACES AND CUSTOMS

by Katarzyna Skóra

Katarzyna lived almost all her life in the Low Beskids. She is particularly interested in

everyday life in the former Lemko region. The imagination plays an important role in her

life, helping to feel the atmosphere of the visited places. She is into handicrafts, and

specifically crocheting. Working on various projects allows you to relax, in a sense it has

become a way of life. She is also passionate about photography. She tries to capture in her

frames inanimate nature, landscapes and the transience, in the broad sense of the word.

Weekly photo trips have already become a tradition.

Areas of the Magura National Park - Rostajne

www.magurskiewyprawy.pl

Rostajne, because that is how the village was originally called,

was founded before 1581. At that time, it was owned by

Mikołaj Stadnicki.

The name probably comes from 'crossroads' (which is

'rozstaje' in Polish). Currently, Wikipedia and other sources

give the name 'Rozstajne'. In this article, however, we will use

the former name. The First World War left its mark on the

history of the village. In 1914, the village, together with the

presbytery and the Orthodox church, was burned by the

Hungarian army. Residents took refuge in dugouts, some

moved to the neighbouring village – Grabie.

In the interwar years, despite significant changes in religion

worshipped in the surrounding villages, the inhabitants of

Rostajne stayed true to the Greek Catholic religion. Only a

small part of them converted to Orthodoxy at that time. In

1936, the village was inhabited by 298 Greek Catholics, 40

Orthodox Christians and 7 Jews. There were 65 houses, 4 of

which were chimney-less huts.

As you can easily guess, a Jewish family ran an inn and a shop

in the village. Near the church, there was a second store,

which in turn was run by a Lemko. In addition, there was also

a school in Rostajne. Firstly, only a temporary one (built after

the first war). Then, in the 1930s, a new wooden one was

built (it was located opposite the church). A Polish teacher

used to teach there.The village head- Stefan Rusynyk –

played an important role in the village life. He organized

agricultural consultancy in such a tiny village, not significant

on the map of the poviat. Fertilisers began to be used, thanks

to which cereal crops were larger here than in the

neighbouring area, and new orchards were established. The

purchase of mushrooms was organised that let the residents

to earn some money or receive vouchers to be used in the

cooperative store. The road, visible in my photos, ended just

in front of Wisłoka. Of course, there was no bridge on

Wisłoka. In 1945, during the period of forced displacement,

269 inhabitants left for Russia which was the majority of

inhabitants. The remaining 11 families were displaced as part

of the "Wisła" campaign.

St. Kosma and Damian Parish Church from 1921

After the fire of 1914, the residents built a new temple. It is

difficult to explain where the church was located, because it

is not a particularly prominent place in the field. Apart from

that, nothing has been left of the church. It was built on the

east side of the road, at the creek mouth. In the past, there

was a forest road to Żydowskie, leading through the valley of

this stream. It can be seen exactly on the WIG maps. The

road led from the church in Rostajne, up to the church in

Żydowskie.

No photo of the church from Rostajne has remained. We

don't even know what it looked like. The only archival photos

I could find were the photographs of Ms. Olga Rusynyk (?); I

suspect that she must have been some kind of relative of the

mentioned above commune head Stefan Rusynyk.

If you are at the cemetery in Rostajne, then, to get to the

churchyard, you have to head towards the bridge on the

Wisłoka. In a distance of about 200 meters from the

cemetery you can clearly see the road going down towards

the stream. A church was located next to it. A skilled eye will

see old trees and river stones scattered all over the site -

these are probably the remains of the foundation, or a wall

surrounding the temple. I am surprised that the Magura

National Park has not marked this place in any way,

considering examples from other villages located within the

Park, such as Żydowskie or Ciechań. The former churchyards

are mowed out there. In Żydowskie, it is a very well cared for

and frequently visited place. And in Rostajne? Nettles up to

the knees. A record has been preserved of the church

inventory that took place in September 1947, i.e. right after

the deportations of residents.

The situation found on the spot could obviously has been

predicted: (...) the bells are missing. Iconostasis demolished

and taken away somewhere, the remaining parts devastated

(...). The scattered liturgical equipment and church equipment

arranged in the presbytery, and the remaining remnants were

entrusted to the appointed guardian – the mayor of the

Świątkowa Mała. The church was demolished by PGR

employees in 1953.

54 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


Cemetery

The cemetery grounds are mowed and kept in order by the

park's services. We also have an information board about the

village here. Several complete crosses and pedestals have

been preserved. The oldest tombstone comes from 1913.

Saint Martyrs Pawel and Joanna’s Chapel

The Orthodox chapel was built during the schism, when most

of the Lemkos converted to Orthodoxy. As I mentioned,

Orthodoxy did not find many followers in Rostajne. In many

neighbouring villages, where entire clusters were willing to

convert, a new Orthodox temples were built at once. Here,

this chapel was built then. This took place in 1928. The chapel

has been used again since 2004. It is looked after by the

Orthodox Parish in Bartno. There are even services once a

year. This event takes place every second Saturday of June.

Roadside crosses

There are several such crosses in Rostajne. They are not too

noticeable as these are just modest pedestals with cast iron

finials. The first of the encountered ones is turned back to

the current road. Perhaps the road had a different course

before. Two more, i.e. a cross and a pedestal from 1894, are

located near the rain protection. On both sides of it.

Ivan Szatyński, years spent in Rostajne

In 1911, Ivan Szatyński settled in Rostajne with his son

Volodymyr. They came from the area of Dobromil in Ukraine.

Ivan was a craftsman - a church painter. He learned the art of

stone carving from Lemko stonemasons.

Then, for years, he perfected his craftsmanship. He made

numerous gravestones and roadside crosses; many of them

have survived to this day. His works are characterised by

manneristically extended number 9 on the date written on

the pedestal. One of the first crosses made by Ivan Szatyński

(1911) is located at the cemetery in Nieznajowa. Szatyński,

both father and son, also dealt with carpentry. They made

wardrobes, sideboards, and winnowers. In 1918, they settled

in nearby Nieznajowa. Volodymyr, after his father's death, left

for Russia with the entire village, where he supposedly died.

Bacówka (the shepherd's hut)

Julian Tarnowycz "Beskyd" was born in Rostajne – a Lemko

activist, editor of the monthly "Nasz Łemko" journal. In 1936,

he published the "Illustrated History of the Lemko Land". The

Tarnowycz noble family was strongly associated with this

region. Julian's father, Stepan was a priest in Mszana, there is

also his grave. Looking at the old map and the modern one, it

is hard to imagine that once you could go to Żydowskie and it

was not a journey through the forest. Only field patches

remained, which are grazed today, not to let everything

overgrow completely.I encourage you to visit Rostajne. There

is a good road and you can have a nice drive, but I assure you

that it's worth taking a walk and cycling. In such a way you

will see more.

I also hope that the Magura National Park will finally take

care of the fence and tidying up the churchyard in Rostajne

as it may become another place worth visiting.


"The name probably comes from 'crossroads'

(which is 'rozstaje' in Polish)."

SEPTEMBER 1947,

AFTER THE DEPORTATIONS OF

RESIDENTS:

(...) the bells are missing. Iconostasis demolished and taken

away somewhere, the remaining parts devastated (...). The

scattered liturgical equipment and church equipment

arranged in the presbytery, and the remaining remnants

were entrusted to the appointed guardian - the mayor of

the Świątkowa Mała. The church was demolished by PGR

employees in 1953.

Rostajne

photos:

by Katarzyna Skóra



l e s s e r s p o t e d e a g l e P h o t o : L P a r c h i v e

lesser spotted eagle,

buzzard

and birds of prey

Magura

text source: eduction materials: Magura National Park and Agnieszka Nowak

In the area of the Magura National Park 137 species of birds have

been found, 117 of them breed here. Very interesting elements of

breeding birds are the birds of prey. There are 13 species in the

Carpathians, out of 19 nesting in Poland, and 8 of them breed in

the Magura National Park.

The most numerous bird of prey is Common Buzzard Buteo

buteo, which density is about 60 pairs per 100 km2 of the

Park’s area being the highest in the country. The second

species, concerning the numerical force, is Lesser Spotted

Eagle Aquila pomarina, which is included in the Polish Red Data

Book of Animals. There are about 31-35 pairs of this species in

this area. They reach the density of 23 pairs per 100 km2 of

the Park’s area which is one of the highest in Poland. There

are also several pairs of Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus, whilst

the number of Goshawk A. gentilis, Honey

Buzzard Pernis apivorus, Hobby Falco subbuteo and

Kestrel F. tinnunculus are much smaller.

There is also one pair of Golden Eagle nesting in the Park, a

species whose whole Polish population is estimated for about

35 pairs. No less interesting birds are owls. There are 9

species nesting in Poland, 8 of which breed in the MNP. The

most spectacular species of owl is Eagle Owl Bubo bubo which

occurrence was confirmed in 2006. The most numerous owl in

the Park is Ural Owl Strix uralensis. The density of this

species is about 60 pairs per 100 km2 of the Park's area,

which is the highest in Poland and probably also in Europe.

Some estimations show that there are about 100 pairs in the

Park, what makes 20-30% of the whole country’s population.

This data meets the requirements of a refuge of the country

rank. The second species, considering the number of

individuals, is Tawny Owl Strix aluco, which density is 26 pairs

per 100 km2. Other species are less numerous:

Long-eared Owl Asio otus, Tengmalm's Owl and Pygmy

Owl Glaucidium passeinum. In the protection zone there are

two other owls: Little Owl Athene noctua and Barn

Owl Tyto alba. Lesser spotted eagle is a rare bird of prey

living in Central Europe, Middle East and India. Beside it in

Poland, there are 35 other species of birds of prey, i.e. golden

eagle, greater spotted eagle, northern goshawk, white-tailed

eagle or buzzard.

58 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


Generally they might be found in Central Europe. Their total

amount is estimated at approx. 13-16 thousand pairs. In Poland,

the largest population can be found in the north-east and southeast

parts of the country. The number of lesser spotted eagles in

Poland is estimated at about 2 thousand pairs. Spotted eagles

come to Poland at the beginning of April to begin their mating

season. Laying eggs and clutch is the most sensitive period in the

hatching season. Birds frightened away from their nest may

abandon their eggs. Therefore, you should avoid wondering

around eagles’ nests and disturbing them. Not all the breeding

couples will be able to raise young eagles. Approximately 1/4 of

couples will not have eaglets, some will be frightened away from

their nests, other may lose their hatching because of predators

or weather. They need specific area which enables them to hunt.

Without the right amount of food, they will not be able to raise

their offspring. Within their territory spotted eagles have

favourite trees or poles – those are their ambush spots used for

searching prey. They like high trees, with thin crowns as well as

dry trees that enable good visibility. It is therefore important to

leave solitary trees including dead ones. Birds use this way of

hunting on cloudy days or in cold weather. Short grass enables

birds to watch for small animals. Near the freshly mown meadows

we have an opportunity to observe not only the spotted eagle

but also the white storks and buzzards. Spotted eagles are birds

of prey which means they feed on animals. Lesser spotted eagles

usually hunt for voles probably due to the fact that this is the

most popular rodent living in open areas.

Voles may constitute up to 80-90% of what spotted eagles eat.

Rodents often reproduce on the borders of various habitats,

balks or wastelands and that is why those particular sites are

closely observed by spotted eagles. During the harvest and

haymaking period some additional places are being exposed

which enable eagles to find lots of prey quite easily. Therefore,

while works are being carried out in the fields, the birds walk

around and carefully monitor the area, even around tractors on

duty. However, mowed-meadow is a great feeding ground for a

limited time only. After the prey being captured by eagles,

buzzards, storks and foxes, the terrain becomes poor and

unattractive as a place for hunting. This continues until the

plants grow again and become a refuge for small animals. That is

why land being mown in strips or totally unmown areas

where small animals carry on living all the time are the best

places for lesser spotted eagle. Lesser spotted eagles set up

their nests in forest are they require special conditions which

may affect raising their offspring. Those birds nest in forests

that are over 80 years old. Trees must be the right age,

appropriately high and have thick branches. In Beskid Niski those

are usually fir trees. Spotted eagles often set up their nests in

trees growing in gorges and ravines. Those places need to be

quiet, without heavy forestry, where the birds are not frightened

away by tourists or mushroom pickers. It is not easy to meet all

the requirements of the spotted eagle, that is why there are so

few places where they can set up their nests.

o w l , s t r i x - u r a l e n s i s

r a v e n b u z z a r d

59 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


P h o t o : l o v e P o l a n d a r c h i v e

WIGRY POST-CAMALDOLESE MONASTERY

AND NATIONAL PARK

Gdańsk

Olsztyn

Wigry Monastery

WRITTEN BY ARTUR TURECZEK

intro source: www.poland.pl, historical info source: www.fundacja.wigry.pro

The Wigry National Park is located in north-eastern Poland, in the Podlaskie

Voivodeship. It encompasses the cleanest areas of the country that are least

contaminated by the industry. It is one of the largest national parks in Poland –

it covering nearly 150,000 square kilometres. The main attraction in the park is

Lake Wigry. It is 2115 hectares large and 74 metres deep, which makes it one of

the largest and deepest lakes in Poland. The lake owes its jagged shape to the

activity of the Scandinavian glacier, which has also left behind a picturesque,

hilly terrain. On the shore of the lake, in the village of Wigry, a historical post-

Camaldolese monastery is located, in which Pope John Paul II rested in 1999.

Lake Wigry is crossed by the Czarna Hańcza River, considered one of the

wildest and most beautiful rivers in Poland. It starts in the deepest lake of our

country – Hańcza (approx. 110 metres) and is the venue of the most interesting

kayak trips. The river current is inhabited by trouts, and its banks by beavers.

Not more than several decades ago, these areas were the last mainstay of

beavers in Poland. Owing to the efforts of natural scientists, the species has

been revived and now inhabits many regions of our country.Lake Wigry borders

on the Augustowska Primeval Forest – extensive wild pinewood stretching

towards Lithuania and Belarus. As much as 114 hectares of this forest lies

within Polish territory. It is inhabited by wolves, raccoons, wildcats, badgers,

elks, deer and boars.In 1975, Lake Wigry was inscribed on the list of the world's

most valuable inland waters (‘Aqua’ project) by the International Union for

Conservation of Nature (IUCN).

PRACTICAL INFO:

Address:

Wigry 11, 16-402 Suwałki

tel: (0048 87) 566 24 99

e-mail: fundacja@wigry.pro

GPS:

N 54.0687359

E 23.0866723

Warszawa

Tickets:

8 PLN full price, 4 PLN reduced

Parking: 5 PLN (easy access, no booking needed)

Food:

Restaurant 'Refektarz Domu Królewskiego' – lovePoland

rating: 8/10 (very good)

Tavern: not visited by us

other:

Direct travel especially from Warszawa or Gdańsk is not

recommended. It may be a long journey, sometimes

thought a small, country roads. Stay somewhere at

Podlasie or Mazury region.

60 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


If our vacation is not long, especially when we come to Poland

from abroad, often from distant countries, the places slightly

out of the way often remain outside our main 'must see' list.

We prefer to focus on the so-called main attractions, which is

often a fairly understandable approach. I would like to

encourage you to a slightly different approach while travelling

to Poland and invite you to the current eastern border of our

country, to see places that will impress you no less than wellknown

attractions. It will be a trip especially for those who like

peace and quiet and look for a place to concentrate, maybe to

contemplate, and at the same time to have a real rest. For me,

it was always a distant place and for a long time i did not make

up my mind to visit it. I knew it only from beautiful photos,

presented to you also on our social profile, and it remained this

way until last year when I finally managed to visit this remote

location. We started our journey from the surroundings of

Giżycko and it took us about 1.5 hours to reach Wigry. The road

led mainly among sleepy villages and little towns - taking into

account the almost deserted (in the middle of the day) former

capital of the region – Suwałki. So, I would like to encourage

you with this short text to visit Masuria or, while in the Suwałki

region, to visit the vicinity of the Wigry National Park and the

former Camaldolese Monastery, situated picturesquely on the

hill above Lake Wigry. Lake Wigry is really magnificent; it is a

place absolutely worth stopping for a short or – preferably – a

longer moment. Charming bays, creeks and several mysterious

islands. On one of them, extremely picturesque one, there once

stood a wooden hunting manor.

Polish kings and Lithuanian princes would come here to hunt.

It was this island that Jan Kazimierz gave to Camaldolese

monks for perpetual usufruct.

Before it happened, more than two centuries before the

arrival of the Camaldolese monks to Wigry, King Władysław

Jagiełło was to come across a hermitage while hunting here.

The news about it reached Kraków. From there, Camaldolese

monks learnt about it. They came to Poland (1603) and, with

the king's consent, settled here – in 1668.

After settling in the Wigry Hermitage, they also founded the

city of Suwałki. They also founded numerous villages and

granges, they used to build roads.

After the Third Partition of Poland, in 1796, the Prussian

authorities confiscated the Camaldolese estates, and in 1800

they were expelled from Wigry.

The Wigry monastery began to decline. It was heavily

damaged by the German army during World War I. In 1915, as

a result of artillery shelling, the Church, the Furtian House and

the Refectory got seriously damaged. During the Second

Polish Republic, reconstruction of it began and it lasted until

the outbreak of World War II.

In 2011, the Wigry Pro Foundation was established. It began

its activity in 2016 – gradually rebuilding the monastery to its

present glory. In 1999, the Diocese of Ełk, and in particular

Wigry, had the honour to host the Pope St. John Paul II.

61 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


The heart of the Wigry monastery is the symbolic chamber

of the monastery chapter house located in the central part

of the Chancellery Chapel building. The walls of this place

are decorated with information boards regarding the Wigry

hermitage. It is here that everyone can reflect on

themselves, trigger the metaphysical areas of their

consciousness. Light breaking through colourful stained

glass, meditation atmosphere, activated awareness of one's

own existence can stimulate reflection and soothe broken

nerves. The presence of today's hosts of Wigry Hill,

consecrated people, can be invaluable help in this kind of

chapter of our own existence.

A personal electronic guide can be a helpful medium when

staying on the hill in Wigry. All you need is a mobile device

with Internet access that recognizes QR codes (the

appropriate application is available on the AppStore, Google

Play and Windows Store). On the hill there are hang plates

with QR codes, just put your smartphone or tablet closer to

them with the camera turned on. The device will read the

link to a specially prepared website and launch the virtual

guide application. It contains audio and text descriptions of

individual buildings on the Wigry Hill. The texts are available

in four languages: Polish, English, German and Russian. In

addition to this information, you can blend in with the

symphony of Wigry nature, as after selecting the

appropriate link from the menu you will hear recordings of

Wigry lake sounds - including the voices of birds and other

sounds of nature. Of course, good headphones are an

indispensable element of this performance, if you don't

have headphones while on the hill, you can rent them there.

In addition to the lector and the sounds of nature, you can

also immerse yourself in sacred music. In the monastery,

unusual shows are regularly organized in the monastery

courtyard. They combine the transmission of content while

engaging both the senses of sight and hearing.

Light and sound shows, the main subject of which in this

season are Wigry legends, are performance based on the

work of high-quality sound system, stage lights and an

animation laser. Due to the necessary darkening conditions,

the performances take place after sunset.

If you decide to stay at the performance and because of the

distance from the place of residence it becomes

troublesome to travel home at night, you can ask for the

guest rooms in the monastery (we advise you to ask about

it before traveling, to be sure that there will be a free

place). It is worth mentioning that you can also eat

something tasty inside the monastery (apart from the

monastery, it will be difficult to find a place to eat dinner in

the vicinity). The Royal House Refectory Restaurant offers

Polish and regional cuisine. A large part of the menu

consists of the fish from Wigry Lake (very tasty). Near the

monastery, there is also a mini open-air restaurant

'Tawerna' – unfortunately closed during our stay, and

several smaller gastronomic points – offering mainly drinks

and snacks. Being on the Wigry Hill, you cannot miss the

reminders of the stay of the Polish Pope St. John Paul II.

These are papal apartments. It is worth seeing this place

and imagining Karol Wojtyla walking inside. And finally, one

piece of advice: we began our stay in Wigry with a cruise on

Wigry Lake with the famous Tryton ship. It would probably

make a good introduction to the whole trip. The cruise will

take you across Hańcza Bay where you can see such rare

wild fowl as egrets and cormorants. It will also stop in Plosa,

near the deepest part of Wigry Lake, where the water depth

reaches 73m. After the Pope’s visit Tryton hosted many

celebrities, who were enchanted by the wild nature

surrounding Wigry Lake. At evening cruises you can admire

the former Monastery of Cameldolite Order, with the tower

and other facilities, all beautifully illuminated. The main

harbour is right at the foot of the Monastery on Wigry Lake.

Wigry post-Camaldolese monastery

photos: view on Wigry Lake

62 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


northern stairs entrance to the monastery

top:

left: general view of the monastery

central

right: Pope St. John Paul the II rooms / museum

central

to the left: Kasia, graphic editor of britanniaweb and Travel lovePoland Magazine with "Obwarzanki"

bottom

central: detail, sculpture

bottom

to the right: Crypt

bottom

63 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


LANDSCAPE PARK DOLINA BARYCZY

THE PEARL THE POLISH WILDLIFE

WORDS & PHOTOS

PAWEŁ BUDZIK

www.pawelbudzik.pl

www.facebook.com/budzikolos

The Barycz Valley, including the “Milicz Ponds” natural reserve, is a Special Protection Area within the Natura 2000 network and one of

the most valuable bird refuges in our country. Many rare species build their nests here. The mosaic of waters, forests, fields and meadows

near the Barycz River is also a very important stop in the migration of birds from their breeding sites to wintering areas. At the same time,

this remarkable land becomes a more popular destination for hiking. The bird paradise attracts ornithologists and birdwatchers,

however all tourists and naturalists may admire the diversity of plants and animals of this interesting region. More and more often, forest

roads of this land are travelled by fans of “two wheels”, while waters of the Barycz River – by enthusiasts of canoeing. Finally, this is the

place where runaways from noisy urban jungles seek for peace and quiet. The increasing popularity of the Barycz Valley provides great

opportunities for the development of this region. However, there is also the other side of the coin –over-intensive tourist movement brings

threats to nature.

source: www.barycz.pl

The Barycz Valley is above all the

largest Polish ornithological reserve

"Stawy Milickie" – a real bird paradise

and an ideal place for bird watching.

The reserve is covered by special

protection, among others, through the

European Natura 2000 program. Every

year thousands of tourists, interested in

bird watching, come there. The

ornithological season lasts from early

spring to autumn because September is

the time of carp catches so many

species of birds stop in the nearby

forests in search of food. The Barycz

Valley encourages visitors to observe

and listen to its rhythm. The natural

treasures of the valley have developed

thanks to the diversity and penetration

of the human and natural world. Every

day and every season, the Barycz

Valley pulsates with the singing of birds

and the precious mosaic of ponds,

forests and pastures. We are talking

about this extraordinary place to a

photographer, Paweł Budzik.

TLP: Paweł – let's start with a fairly general

question, namely: what is the Valley for you and

what in your opinion may the Barycz Valley be

for a nature lover? Which of its features

particularly encourages tourism?

PB: For me, the Barycz Valley is above all a

"natural gem" on the map of Poland, which I

have been discovering for over 10 years and I

believe that I still do not know it. I come from

Lesser Poland and when I went to the Barycz

Valley for the first time, after moving to

Wroclaw, I thought I was in paradise,

ornithological and photographic paradise. I

experienced a real shock, in Lesser Poland I

wandered in the mountains and hills where

water and marsh birds were rare while in the

Barycz Valley there is a real abundance of all of

them; many of them I saw for the first time in

my life or for the first time in such huge

numbers. I remember my first "hunting blind"

for cranes. A cold autumn morning, fog and

clangour (voice) of thousands of cranes flying

over my head at dawn an amazing experience.

What does Barycz Valley mean for nature

lovers.. hmm... I think it is an obligatory place

that you should visit at least once in your life.

TLP: The winter period in the Barycz Valley is

probably a period of 'silence', rarely interrupted

only by the voices of wintering birds. And how

does spring start here? What are its first

signs? Apparently, on sunny days in the woods

we can hear the shy wood pecking, which is the

mating voice of these birds. Are they like the

first signs of the approaching spring? Or

perhaps is it vegetation, the first flowers?

64 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


photos: PAWEŁ BUDZIK, www.pawelbudzik.pl

www.facebook.com/budzikolos

65 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


PB: The winter period is not as quiet as it may seem. It is

cold and gloomy for us, but if we dress warmly and spend

several hours in the field, we can successfully observe

numerous flocks of birds.

On the ponds (preferably in non-frozen places, but not only)

we will meet herons, white-tailed eagles, geese, whooper

swans, ducks or cranes. It is also a good time to listen to the

voice of the night and roar of the Eurasian Tawny Owls,

which are more active during this period. In addition, winter

passes quickly and spring usually comes earlier than we

think. Spring, probably one of the best periods in the valley.

Melt, puddles, wet forests and of course ponds.

The first signs of spring for me it's the spring singing of our

common great tit. When I hear it, I know that spring is here,

it is coming. Starlings or woodpeckers are another

predictors of spring, but not the only ones, we should also

remember about geese, the passing V-formations of which

make my heart feel warmer, thanks to them, we can feel

spring even more, although it is not yet visible. Of course,

walking with my head in the clouds I do not forget to look

under my feet, because usually the song of the great tit is

synchronized with the blooming of spring flowers in the

woods and the first amphibians. We can meet snowdrops,

Spisz saffron called crocuses, anemones, etc.

TLP: And so we went to what is probably the greatest

treasure of this place. So let's talk about birds. Over the

years, over 300 species of birds have been observed in the

Barycz Valley. About 280 species can be found permanently,

of which 169 are breeding species. Over half of the species

establish their nests in Milicz. What birds can we see and

watch, do you have your favourite ones?

PB: That's how we got to the ornithological topic, which is

my favourite pastime. Maybe that's why in my earlier

statements I forgot about other animals like mammals,

reptiles and amphibians.

So, in Poland there are about 360 species of birds, of which

as many as 300 can be observed in the Barycz Valley - this

is an amazing result. It is impossible to mention at least a

significant part of them, but we must remember that it is

possible to meet here breeding species from the Red Book

of Animals, i.e. the most endangered ones, such as white

tern, short-eared owl, bluethroat, whisker, green fodder,

bittern, black kite, red kite, purple heron or white-winged

tern. Species that are unique to me personally include the

"forest" birds, gills and black stork but the most precious

gems are huge flocks of birds during migrating flights,

especially in autumn. I mean the flocks of white herons,

geese, ducks and cranes, when we can observe thousands of

birds in these formations. Autumn is the time when I am on

the ponds, most often with a camera.

TLP: What else makes this place special? Are these age-old

oak alleys, inaccessible alders, flowery meadows and lively

waters - encouraging to practice nature-friendly tourism?

PB: I think, it is space. The Barycz Valley is not one place, it

is a whole complex of about 300 ponds scattered around

Żmigród and Milicz.

Each place, each pond has its own character, "natural style"

which proves the diversity and biodiversity of the fauna and

flora of this terrain and makes me still explore the valley.

What's more, at any time of the year the Barycz Valley looks

completely different, places that did not delight me in the

summer, in autumn turn out to be phenomenal or just

opposite.

Another advantage of the Valley are numerous reserves,

natural monuments and of course historical sites.

All of the above contributed to the uniqueness of this place

and has led in recent years to the development of tourism:

hiking, cycling, horse riding or kayaking.

TLP: The valley is not only the nature. These are also unique

turf ore houses, half-timbered churches and historic stillrunning

weirs. Do you have your favourite places that you

could recommend to others? Why?

PB: Yes, here we also have monuments, churches, palaces,

old houses, old parks and avenues. It's worth to see the

historic church in Milicz or Żmigród and the Radziwill Palace

in Antonin. We will see unique turf ore houses in Krośnice.

For those looking for less known places, I recommend a tiny

photo gallery in Wierzchowice in an old post-German

building that smells lovelly of old, but well preserved wood,

(www.facebook.com/galeriamlynska5).

I would also direct my steps to the "Tree House", a historic

cone hulling plant where we can learn everything about trees

and obtaining seeds from them. From more natural-kind

places I definitely recommend:

- the trail around the Grabownica pond and the lookout

tower with there is a beautiful view to one of the largest

ponds of the Barycz Valley.

- ponds between Stawno and Nowe Grodzisko

- ponds in Krośnice

- ponds in Potasznia

- ponds in Ruda Sułowska

- ponds in Ruda Żmigrodzka and Radziądz

66 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


the largest Polish

landscape park

Nature lovers should enjoy, for instance, the natural reserve of

the “Milicz Ponds”, second in size in Poland and rated among

the most valuable world ecosystems.Tourists interested in

history may admire magnificent palaces, surrounded by old

parks, as well as interesting churches, timber-framed

tenement buildings and cottages built of bog iron.What is

interesting, both groups, while following their fascinations, will

often meet, as the Barycz Valley is one of the few places in

which a unique and naturally valuable ecosystem developed, to

a large extent, as an effect of human activity.

67 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


TLP: Probably it is a less known fact that several dozen

Polish horses live in the valley – for over a dozen years as a

free herd. Is it worth visiting the "Ostoja Koników" natural

trail located there?

PB: Yes, since 2007, a reserve farm for Polish horses have

been run on the Stawy Milickie, generally, without any major

human intervention. One of the five places where we can see

these animals is on the cycling route Milicz – Koruszka. A

forest clearing with ponds, shelters, a place to rest in the

midst of nature.

TLP: And at the end of this short conversation, maybe some

practical advice. Most of us are tired of everyday work in

stuffy and crowded cities, we miss the singing of birds or

the smell of a flowering meadow. The Barycz Valley is

probably a perfect place for close contact with nature. What

is the best way to watch the birds, how to prepare for it? Is

spring good time for this?

PB: As I have already mentioned, every time is good to relax

from the hustle and bustle of the city and commune with

nature. Of course, we will experience the most of natural

sensations in spring, when meadows smell the most

intensively, we will hear the largest number of singing birds

and see the greenest of the greenery. Of course, we will

experience the most of natural sensations in spring, when

meadows smell the most intensively, we will hear the largest

number of singing birds and see the greenest of the

greenery. This is when we can explore nature paths along the

ancient oak alleys to the accompaniment of a concert of

frogs and toads or walk along alleys filled with the smell of

the patches of forest flowers. Summer is equally good

because we can combine rest in the valley with active

tourism and get to know this land even better. Being here in

the summer, it is worth going to pick mushrooms, the

abundancy of which may be found in the huge forests of the

Barycz Valley. Autumn, in turn, is the period of largest birds'

migrations, the rutting season of the deer, which is

extremely intense in this region. It is also the time of fishing.

It is worth knowing that the way of catching fish in the Milicz

Ponds has not changed for decades and they are still carried

out with the help of only the human muscles of the local

fishermen.

How to prepare for exploring the land of extraordinariness

which is the Barycz Valley? I think the most important are

binoculars, a camera, comfortable shoes and / or a bike and

of course a good humour.

For those who want a little more adrenaline, I suggest

kayaking along the narrow watercourses of Barycz. Of

course, we can always come by car because in many

environmentally interesting places there are specially

designated parking areas. In the case of animals and birds,

the best time to observe them is in the morning or evening.

Then the birds are the most active.

On a summer noon, when the heat is pouring from the sky,

the animals hide in the backwoods where we can also go to

get some chill.

Finally, remember that we are not alone and observing

nature it is best to keep calm and silent and not to pollute

the nature.

Tourist Information

Wojska Polskiego 3 Street

56-300 Milicz

+48 71 383 00 35

Poznań

Barycz Valley Landscape Park

Wrocław

68 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


photos: PAWEŁ BUDZIK, www.pawelbudzik.pl

69 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


Land by the lazy water

photos: PAWEŁ BUDZIK, www.pawelbudzik.pl

The Barycz River, 133 km long, starts in wetlands close to Ostrów Wielkopolski and ends, flowing into the Oder River, in the vicinities of Wyszanów near Szlichtyngowa.These sites, like brackets, close one of the most

enchanting spots in Poland, comprising a mosaic of ponds, fens, forests, fields and meadows.

70 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


photos: PAWEŁ BUDZIK, www.pawelbudzik.pl

The Grabownica Pond –the largest and one of the most beautiful ponds, habitat of countless birds, with waters piled up by a historic, wooden weir, a masterpiece of the 19th century hydraulic engineering.Presently,

a great part of the Barycz Valley is included in the Natura 2000 network. The area is also located within the largest Polish landscape park.

71 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND



park Dolina Baryczy

landscape

PAWEŁ BUDZIK

www.pawelbudzik.pl/

www.facebook.com/budzikolos/



park Dolina Baryczy

landscape

PAWEŁ BUDZIK

www.pawelbudzik.pl/

www.facebook.com/budzikolos/


spring back to

Krynica by Konrad Rogoziński

www.facebook.com/odkryjbeskid

EXPERIENCE

photography:

Konrad Rogoziński

text:

Zuzanna Długosz

Colourful history, a multitude of

architectural styles, the variety of

festivals, a multitude of guests visiting

Krynica and, above all, a wealth of

mineral waters gave Krynica-Zdrój the

nickname of the Pearl of Polish Spas.

76 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


Krynica is situated actually in the middle of the Carpathians

(49°25' north latitude and 20°58' east longitude). The spa is

located in the eastern part of Jaworzyna Krynicka band – one

of the two bands of Beskid Sadecki. Most of the surrounding

peaks rise at an altitude of 700-950 meters above sea level.

The highest mountain ranges – Jaworzyna Krynicka (1114 m)

towers over them. Krynica’'s existed (under the name

‘Krzenycze’) before 1547, as documented by the Privilege of

Ownership issued for Danko from Miastko (today’ s Tylicz) for

this settlement. The settlement development was mainly

associated with the local mineral springs of medicinal value

discovered here in 17th century. The real career of Krynica as a

spa resort initiated in 1856 by Jozef Dietl, a professor at the

Jagiellonian University acknowledged as the father of Polish

balneology. From 1858 on the mud bath treatment was used

here and the followers of prof. Dietl contributed to the

technical development of the resort. Krynica operates as a

health resort for over 200 years, and Old Mineral Baths, The

Old Baths mud, Pump Room and New Home Spa House

engraved an indelible imprint on the architectural map of the

city and the region and they witnessed the birth of Polish

hydrotherapy. South eastern part of the Krynica Zdrój

municipality falls partly on the area of Beskid Niski, where the

peaks do not exceed 1000 m above sea level. The town

expanded along the valleys of small streams - Palenica, Czarny

Potok and Kryniczanka. There is also the picturesque River

Muszynka, which flows directly into the Poprad river.

Walk around

The promenade in Krynica-Zdrój is the most obvious point of

excursion for people of all ages, a walking place, the city

centre – it would seem that it could be crowded on a sunny,

warm day however, when we go back in time by 100 years it

turns out that once it really used to be crowded here.

End of World War I

Krynica-Zdrój flourished in the 1920s. The political situation in

Europe stabilized, and World War I ended. Poland regained

independence. The soldiers returned home – to their longing

wives, mothers and children. The process of post-conflict

recovery and order restoration began. Finally, there was the

longing opportunity for free rest and restoring war-torn

calmness.

Father of Polish balneology

The first noticeable increase in the number of visitors to

Krynica was recorded in the second half of the 19th century.

The spa owes its growing popularity among patients to Dr.

Józef Dietl (later Mayor of Krakow), who used to live and work

in Vienna at that time. He, being there a successful doctor,

directed his patients for convalescence "to the waters".

Railroad

Lucky for the city was also the fact that in the interwar period

the head of the Hydropathic Plant, a member of the Spa

Committee and the Commune Council was Dr. Henryk Ebers.

“Nowy Dom Zdrojowy” spa house

77 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND



Krynica by Konrad Rogoziński

learn more at www.facebook.com/odkryjbeskid


K R Y N I C A Z D R Ó J

P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y K O N R A D R O G O Z I Ń S K I

L e a r n m o r e a t w w w . f a c e b o o k . c o m / o d k r y j b e s k i d

In the heart of Krynica-Zdrój, next to the junction of Piłsudskiego St. and Pułaskiego St., behind the white walls of the Assumption

of the Blessed Virgin Mary Church, we can find a majestic edifice with wide stairs and an impressive colonnade placed in front of it.

This is the “Nowe Łazienki Mineralne” spa house erected not earlier than in the interwar years, although its Neoclassical

architecture seems to suggest a much earlier origin. In 1924, the cornerstone for its construction was solemnly laid by President of

the Second Republic of Poland Stanisław Wojciechowski. However, this three-winged building was designed by architect Władysław

Klimczak.

80 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


K R Y N I C A Z D R Ó J

P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y K O N R A D R O G O Z I Ń S K I

L e a r n m o r e a t w w w . f a c e b o o k . c o m / o d k r y j b e s k i d

“Stary Dom Zdrojowy” spa house

In the heart of Krynica-Zdrój, just off the promenade, the edifice of “Stary Dom Zdrojowy” dazzles like a majestic neo-Renaissance

palace. The building was erected in 1889 and visited by such personages as Marshal Józef Piłsudski, Władysław Reymont and Leon

Wyczółkowski. Its Ballroom with rich decor hosts elegant concerts, banquets, recitals and balls. In addition to the Ballroom, it also

houses a restaurant and a pump room whose water comes from the “Mieczysław” source. Most of the premises serve for the

purposes of the spa house.

81 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


K R Y N I C A Z D R Ó J

P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y K O N R A D R O G O Z I Ń S K I

L e a r n m o r e a t w w w . f a c e b o o k . c o m / o d k r y j b e s k i d

Krynica-Zdrój possesses over 13 thousand places to stay at night. Many sanatoriums can be compared to the most renowned ones

in Poland and in other countries. The spa offers treatment in 15 healing profiles out of 19 available in Poland. There are also many

holiday houses, pensions, hotels, and quarters of various standards in the health resort, just like varied are financial capacities of its

guests. In recent years, a couple of exclusive hotels appeared in Krynica in order to meet the expectations of the most demanding

clients. Such hotels offer high-class service and the newest world trends in the domain of biological renewal.

82 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


K R Y N I C A Z D R Ó J

P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y K O N R A D R O G O Z I Ń S K I

L e a r n m o r e a t w w w . f a c e b o o k . c o m / o d k r y j b e s k i d

Witoldówka is housed in a historic building reflecting the 19th century architecture of the region.

Located in the centre of the spa town Krynica-Zdrój, the guest house offers views of the popular promenade. Built as a

health care center of Dr. Bolesław Skórczewski, it took its name after his son Witold Skórczewski who later also became

a physician. Address: 10 Dietla Street, Villa Witoldówka from 1888.

83 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND



Krynica Zdrój

photography by Konrad Rogoziński

Learn more at

www.facebook.com/odkryjbeskid


Pentecost Walking with Princess and Kupała

Night

Two days at The Podlasie Museum of Folk Culture

place: Podlaskie Muzeum

Kultury Ludowej

date: 31 May 2020

links:

www.skansen.bialystok.pl

address:

Leśna 7,

16-010 Wasilków, Poland

photos: Jerzy Rajecki

www.facebook.com/Klimaty-Podlasia

rajeckijerzy@gmail.com

"Walking with the princess" or "Walking the

bush" (in Polish called 'wodzenie kusta')

rituals once associated with Pentecost,

now forgotten, can be admired at the

Podlasie Museum of Folk Culture. We are

organizing the ethnographic festival

associated with the celebration of these

folk events for the tenth time. This year,

on Sunday, May 20, from 12.00 to 18.00.

Pentecost is the colloquial name for the

feast of the descent of the Holy Spirit

upon the Apostles and other followers of

Jesus Christ, but the tradition of enjoying

spring, nature reborn after winter, dates

back to pre-Christian times.

The most characteristic of Pentecostal

customs include decorating of the houses

and farm buildings with green branches.

They are commonly clogged into thatched

roofs or the walls of residential buildings,

less often the twigs are scattered in the

yard.

Villagers place young birch trees, which used to be

considered sacred by the Slavs, at the doors of

their homes. Inside the house, they decorate

windows, paintings and icons.

Calamus is also used for decoration, mainly due to

its aromatic smell. The most important of the

reasons why people celebrated and still celebrate

the arrival of spring is the possibility of grazing

the cattle again in the meadows and the desire to

protect crops. Hence the custom of rushing

animals adorned with wreaths of birch and wild

flowers through the village, as well as "walking

with the princess" or "walking the bush", that is,

solemn celebration around the fields, in order to

chase away evil spirits and ensure good harvest.

For the same reasons in Podlasie people used to

burn bonfires on Pentecost that were to protect

the sown fields from witches.

As every year, their presentations will be

accompanied by folk handicrafts, tasting and

selling regional dishes, pottery and plaiting

workshops, led by masters of these crafts.

86 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


Kupała Night

(Sobótka)

A thousand years ago "Kupała Night (Eve of St.

John, 23/24 June) was one of the most important

holidays of the year. It was the night of love – our

Slav Valentine's day. In those days, marriages were

concluded by the will of families. The couple who

loved each other had on that night the chance to

leave the decision about their future to the gods,

not to parents. The burning of midsummer fires

was also associated with agrarian beliefs. Bonfires

burned on Saturday played a special role (hence

Kupała Night was also called Sobótka, which is a

word derived from Polish name of Saturday –

sobota). Fires were also lit on the eve of Pentecost.

Their glare banished evil spirits from the crops.

Sometimes, lines surrounding fields were drawn with

half-burned torches. It was believed that these lines

could not be crossed by evil powers. In central and

southern Poland, it was believed that midsummer

fires protect not only from the influence of evil

spirits, but also from hail in the summer.

In Pomerania there was a conviction that without

burning these bonfires in the fields, there would be

no good harvest. "Where the bonfires are burning,

there are no hails beating" - they used to say in

Silesia, but there was a tradition of burning fires on

the eve of Pentecost.Running around the fields in

circles with burning torches was also believed to

protect the crops from vermin. The custom of

flaunting burning blades from the midsummer fires

was already described in the 13th century, in the

sermons from Nysa. The blade symbolized life,

fertility and abundance, so walking around the fields

in circles with the firebrands was to convey these

features to cultivated plants. If the torch went off, it

used to be read as a bad omen. Wreaths and

bonfires are one of the oldest and most beautiful

ancient Polish customs to which it is worth coming

back. You don't have to cultivate commercial

Valentine's Day, but it's worth taking from our Slavic

tradition. Even children play until dawn. Young lovers

look for a fern flower in the forest. Boys and girls

jump through the fire in the hope of prosperity.

Everyone dances to the music of the band, people

sing and tell old folk tales.


THE MUSEUM PODLASIE MUSEUM OF FOLK

CULTURE

The Podlasie Museum of Folk Culture was established in September 2016 as a

result of the merger of the Białystok Museum of the Countryside and the

Department of Ethnography, excluded from the structures of the Podlasie

Museum in Białystok. The ethnographic workshop was founded in 1962. The openair

museum was founded in 1982 as a branch of the Regional Museum in

Bialystok. The projects aimed to protect the wooden buildings of Białystok region

by creating an open-air museum were created already in the 1960s.

Folk Art of Podlasie is one of the main permanent exhibitions at the manor of

Bobra Wielka. It was composed in such a way as to show the richness of folk art

as fully as possible. Each of the fields is represented by several or even a dozen of

exhibits. Wooden monuments constitute the largest group. These are sculptures

as well as architectural details, tools, hollow or grooved vessels and containers.

The items that make up the exhibition come

from the collections of the Podlasie

Museum of Folk Culture. Before the

institution was established, these items

were collected for decades by employees of

the Białystok Museum of the Countryside

and the Ethnography Department of the

Podlasie Museum.

Other permanent exhibitions include:

Tools and equipment related to the

cultivation, storage and processing of

cereals in a former rural farm in the

Bialystok region. The exhibits come

from the end of the 19th century until

the mid-twentieth century, and some

were used a dozen or so years ago.

Old forestry in Podlasie – the exhibition

shows the relationship of former village

inhabitants with the forest. The forest

fed them, gave wood for fuel and for

the construction of houses, it supplied

them with raw materials used in

industry.

Some of them are distinguished not only by their beautiful shape, but also by

engraved ornaments. Of course, when it comes to dishes, the ones made of clay

are the most frequent. This material can be considered one of the symbols of folk

handicrafts in Bialystok region. To this day, there are several pottery workshops

operating in Czarna Wieś Kościelna, the owners of which produce jugs and bowls

identical to those of centuries ago. This is the only place in Poland where the

tradition of firing so-called gray ceramics has survived to this day. Wood and clay

reign in the attic of the manor house of Bobra Wielka, where it is easier to

accommodate objects of small dimensions. You will also find baskets or fishing

tools there, made of straw and wicker, a substantial collection of blacksmith

crosses and examples of ceremonial art characteristic of the region. In addition to

Easter eggs (from Lipsk and Siemiatycze), these are also paper cut-outs used to

decorate stars of caroller's bands. The latter are still an inseparable element of

Christmas of the Orthodox inhabitants of the province. You can start sightseeing

from the attic and then move to the ground floor, or if someone prefers in the

reverse order – then as soon as you enter the manor, you will see a collection of

fabrics. Most of them are the most famous type of double-warp weave. They are

all the more valuable as the tradition of this craft is continued in a very small area.

Weavers from Janów and the surrounding area, like potters from Czarna Wieś

Kościelna, are the only continuators of this almost extinct tradition in Poland.

The exhibition presenting monuments

related to various aspects of the life of

riverside villages and towns in the

Bialystok region. At the exhibition you

can see fishing tools once used to catch

fish, from the simplest ones, such as

wooden hammers to stun fish under ice,

through leisters, goads and fishing boats

to three-layer nets.

Decorations of wooden houses in the

Białystok region:

The exhibition presents the phenomenon of

decorating residential buildings with

decorative details cut in wood, extremely

characteristic of rural wooden construction

in north-eastern Poland. Decorative details

include the elements above and below the

window sills, i.e. open-cut boards over and

under the windows, wind braces – planks

nailed along the top edge of the roof,

protecting the roof covering against the

wind, and decorative elements nailed on the

corners of houses.

88 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


The Museum. Podlasie Museum of Folk Culture.

photos: Jerzy Rajecki

photo archive of Telewizja Sudecka

89 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


"Where the bonfires are burning, there

are no hails beating"




Kupała Night

photos: Jerzy Rajecki



Podlasie Museum of Folk Culture

photos: Jerzy Rajecki


PASSION PLAYS Kalwaria Zebrzydowska PHOTOS:

JAKUB ZAWADZIŃSKI



Photos:

Jakub Zawadziński

98 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

The father of Pope John Paul II was a tour guide here and Karol Wotjyla visited here often as a young boy traveling from his nearby home town of Wadowice. It was

considered his favorite Shrine and he continued to visit here as a Priest, Bishop, Archbishop and Pope. In 1987 he offered the Golden Rose as he was praying before the

image of Our Lady of Kalwaria. One of things the Shrine is most noted for its’ Passion Play which begins on Palm Sunday and then continues on Wednesday, Manday

Thursday, and Good Friday.


The following founder was Michał Zebrzydowski, son of

Jan. In this period, the convent was enlarged to the north

(1654-1655) and a chapel was built near the south wall of

the church (today the presbytery), especially for the

miraculous picture of the Mother of God. This chapel is

one of the most beautiful architectural monuments of

Kalwaria Zebrzydowska.

Michał Zebrzydowski died in 1667 and the tutelage of

Kalwaria passed to the family of the Czartoryski. Michal’'s

daughter, Anna Zebrzydowska, had married Jan Karol

Czartoryski and with her, the property of the

Zebrzydowski family passed to the Czartoryski. She died

in 1668, and Czartoryski wed a second time with

Magdalena Konopacka, to whom we owe the extension of

a nave of the church (1702) and the construction of the

two towers built in front of the church (1720). Today’s

basilica is mostly the work of Magdalena Czartoryska, who

died in 1694, and her son, Józef, who continued the

successive works.

In the years from 1810 to 1812, on the initiative of Father

Gaudente Thynel, the convent, in a rather clumsy manner,

was enlarged by lowering the vaults and slightly lifting the

first floor walls. This reconstruction was corrected later in

the years 1897 to 1901, during the abbey ministry of

Father Felicjan Fierek, with the project and the

supervision of the Krakow architect Karol Knaus.

From 1906 to 1910, Father Felicjan Fierek, prior of the

convent, proposed to enlarge considerably the church

(today’s basilica). However, authorisation for this work

was denied by the curator of the Cultural Heritage of

Krakow, in order to safeguard the monumental character

of the religious complex and the convent of Kalwaria

Zebrzydowska.

The most important result of the war was the fact that

the Teutonic Knights would gradually lose their

importance in the international arena. A huge ransom,

which exceeded the two-year income of the Polish king,

broke the finances and economy of the Teutonic Knights.

The Order was in debt until the end of its existence.

SANCTUARY ADDRESS:

Bernardines Monastery

Bernardyńska st. No. 46

34-130 KALWARIA ZEBRZYDOWSKA

Małopolska / Poland

INFORMATION FOR PILGRIMS AND TOURIST GROUPS

Pilgrims and tourists coming to Calvary in organized groups

(15 people) can get a guide who will present the history of

the sanctuary. The shortest version of the tour is about 45

minutes. This is possible from 9 am-5 pm (on the hour).

• A guide in English, Italian, German, and French should be

booked 4 days in advance, in Polish – the day before the

arrival at the Sanctuary, in Calvary Information Center (KCI):

Phone: 0048 33 8766 304,

Fax: 0048 33 8766 641,

e-mail: info@kalwaria.eu

• On arrival at the Calvary the pilgrimage group should

report in to the Information Center reservation

HOLY MASSES PILGRIMAGE

The priests who come to the shrine with pilgrimage groups

or individually, may celebrate the Eucharist every hour

throughout the day from 6 a.m. to 7 p.m. (from Palm

Sunday to 31.X) and at every hour from 6 a.m. till 5 p.m.

(from 1st. November till Palm Sunday)

• Holly Masses can be ordered in the sacristy, at the

monastery gate, or through the mail.

PILGRIM HOUSE, RESTAURANT, KIOSK WITH SOUVENIRS

The Pilgrim House, restaurant, souvenir kiosk are open all

year round:

• The pilgrimages coming to the shrine in groups and

individually can make use of accommodation and meals

• A model of Calvary can be seen at the reception in the

Pilgrim House

The Monastery invites you to visit the monastery bookstore

and the souvenir kiosk.

MASS ORDER OF SAINTS

Masses on Sundays and holidays:

6 a.m., 7 a.m., 9 a.m., 11 a.m., 1 p.m, 3 p.m, 5 p.m, 7 p.m.

Masses on weekdays:

6 a.m., 7 a.m., 8 am., 9 a.m., 12 a.m., 5 p.m.*, 7 p.m.**

7 a.m. Mass in the Church of the third Fall of our Lord Jesus

Christ.

* Mass at 5 p.m. from on 1st Nov. fill Palm Sunday

** Mass at 7 p.m. from Palm Sunday to 31 X, and every

Saturday during year (the Sunday Mass)

check for more details:

www.kalwaria.eu/strona/english

99 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


Calvary Kalwaria Zebrzydowska

Surrounding the sanctuary are 5km of pilgrimage routes over 6km of forest, with 42 chapels and churches en route. The distances between the chapels here are longer

than in Jerusalem itself, but within the same proportions.

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photos: Jakub Zawadziński

Ecce Homo Chapel was built on the plan of the Greek cross between 1605-1609 by Paul Baudarth. The vault adorned with profuse stucco decorations in the style of Dutch mannerism.

The layout was designed by Feliks Zebrowski in 1604. It intended to represent the landscape of Jerusalem at the time of Christ. It's an example of a so-called Calvary

(a man-made landscape symbolizing the stages that led up to Christ's crucifixion), of which many were built in Europe in the 17th century.

101 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


Photo:

Jakub Zawadziński



Photo:

Jakub Zawadziński



Calvary Kalwaria Zebrzydowska

Photos:

Jakub Zawadziński

The Baroque church (17th c) contains the revered painting of Our Lady of Kalwaria Zebrzydowska. The Calvary, the Way of the Cross, is lined with shrines, chapels and small

churches and is picturesquely set on hills and in the valley of a stream. The sanctuary is visited by approximately one million pilgrims each year. It is famous for its Passion

plays. The most important processions are held during Holy Week (Easter) and on Our Lady’s Assumption Day.

106 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


During the day of fasting Catholics celebrate the Way of the Cross and in Kalwaria Zebrzydowska an extraordinary open-air spectacle takes place in the hills

surrounding the Shrine.

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ŚMIGUSZT IN ORAVA

Śmigus dyngus

Lipnica Mała

Tradition is not

the worship of

ashes, but the

preservation of

fire.

Narrated by:

Ania Olesińska

Photography by:

Łukasz Sowiński

SowinskiFoto.



“There is no

creation without

tradition;

novelty is always

a variation on the

past.”

photos: Łukasz Sowiński

www.sowinskifoto.pl

www.facebook.com/zsercaorawy/

110 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


YEAR 1

WHITE

Śmigus dyngus Lipnica Mała

111 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


the past

Kraków Bronowice cottage

Digitalisation: RDW MIC, Małopolska's Virtual Museums project public domain

Author: model made by carpenters managed by Włodzimierz Tetmajer,

with the participation of artist-painter Antoni Procajłowicz

Date of production: 1901

Place of creation: Kraków

Dimensions: height: 79 cm, length: 187 cm, width: 95 cm

Museum: The Seweryn Udziela Ethnographic Museum in Kraków

Material: gypsum, wood, straw

Object copyright: The Seweryn Udziela Ethnographic Museum in Kraków

The model was made in 1901 by Bronowice carpenters under the supervision of Włodzimierz Tetmajer and with the participation of a painter, Antoni

Procajłowicz. The piece was commissioned by Jerzy Warchałowski on the occasion of the First Exhibition of the Polish Applied Arts Society in

Kraków.

The architectural model in a 1:10 scale is traditionally modelled after the cottage of Błażej Czepiec of Bronowice, a participant of Stanisław

Wyspiański's Wesele [Wedding]. It represents a wooden cottage with two rows of residential rooms, with a long side facing the road, and an area for

livestock. The building is covered with a hipped thatched roof. The model with walls made in the log cabin construction system has a Lusatian

structure supporting the roof structure, typical of Bronowice houses. The walls of the building are covered with a polychrome in brown and white

strips imitating whitewashing. The frames of the windows and the semi-circular recess of the entrance are ornamented with floral decorations

against a white background.


Men’s tunic for Kraków costume

Digitalisation: RDW MIC, Małopolska's Virtual Museums project public domain

Date of production: 19th/20th century

Place of creation: Zalas, Małopolska Province

Dimensions: length: 100 cm, width: 36.5 cm

Museum: Museum – Vistula Ethnographic Park in Wygiełzów and

Lipowiec Castle

Technique: manual embroidery, machine sewing, pick stitch

Material: cloth

Object copyright: Museum – Vistula Ethnographic Park in Wygiełzów and

Lipowiec Castle

Men’s kaftan of navy blue cloth. Edged with red cloth, with a pair of pockets with trapezeshaped

tabs. The kaftan is decorated with multi-coloured embroidery and an appliqué made

of white buttons. Without a collar. Embroidered along the edges with a red tape. Red lining

made of fabric. The back is sewn together from two pieces of canvas connected in the

middle, from the waist down, with a slit forming so-called gills. The collar shape features a

colourful appliqué of cross-stitch embroidery. The front of the kaftan is decorated with

three vertical rows of small, pearly buttons in white, stitched with purple threads. The

outside of the appliqué is embroidered with a yellow, red and green thread on either side

along with four rosettes arranged in a column. They are separated by smaller groups of

white buttons. Pockets with lapels in the form of trapezoidal patches are decorated with

horizontal and vertical stripes and crosses consisting of buttons sewn onto the appliqué of

purple and green threads.

White sukmana coat — “chrzanówka”

Date of production: 19th/20th century

Place of creation: Zalas near Kraków

Dimensions: height: 116 cm, width: back: 44 cm, bottom: 105 cm

Museum: Museum – Vistula Ethnographic Park in Wygiełzów

and Lipowiec Castle

Technique: hand sewing

Material: string, cloth

Object copyright: string, cloth

The sukmana coat, formerly known as an outer garment, was

commonly worn on Sundays and festivals by the inhabitants of Kraków

villages. It was made of white cloth formerly manufactured, for

example, by drapers from Chrzanów (even in the early 20th century,

about a dozen families living in Chrzanów were still involved in this

craft). Cloth made of spun wool was purchased from merchants from

Biała. Depending on the recipient, tailors used a various finish

of sukmana coats.


Easter table Easter Mazurek (shortcrust tart)


Easter Mazurek (shortcrust tart)

At Christmas, poppy-seed cakes and cheesecakes

usually reign on our tables but the hallmarks of Easter

in Poland is undoubtedly 'mazurek'. For many years,

housewives have prepared it exclusively for this

holiday. In many homes this is the only occasion during

the year when we can taste this tart.

It is believed that this delicacy comes from Mazovia, as

its name comes from the word Mazur – as the

inhabitants of the region were once called. Most likely,

however, the recipe came to Poland from Turkey.

There are nearly as many recipes for mazurek as the

housewives preparing it but most of this baked

delicacies have some common features. Usually,

mazurek is prepared from shortcrust pastry, layered

with nuts and dried fruit.

In the past it was a reward for those who withstood

forty days of abstinence from eating meat dishes and

desserts (due to Great Lent). Therefore, the whole

ritual was associated with preparing it. Today, we

often don't remember about this tradition anymore.

Of course, the mazurek is still a typical Easter cake,

but hardly anyone knows its history and understands

the meaning. However, invariably, great attention is

paid to decorating this baking, which is not only to

taste great, but also to be a decoration of a richly set

table.

On our table, there is usually a butterscotch mazurek

(recipe below). However, the most popular is probably

the royal mazurek, which is a shortcrust pastry with a

lot of almonds covered in homemade jam. In many

Polish homes, a walnut mazurek with meringue or

chocolate is also prepared. However, nothing prevents

you from using a marzipan cake or sponge cake instead

of a crispy, shortcrust pastry. You can layer them with

nut, butterscotch, pudding, marmalade or plum jam

fillings. The culmination of the pastry may be the

decorations of icing, nuts, colourful sugar beads and so

on. There is only one rule – it should be tasty and rich.

In this case, you cannot save on good quality

ingredients and eye-catching additions.

ingredients:

method:

Shortcrust:

300 g wheat flour

150 g butter (or margarine)

80 g icing sugar

1 egg (size M)

Additionally:

approx. 180 g jam, preferably sour (e.g. raspberry,

forest fruit)

1 can of fudge mass (400 or 500g) or a can of sweet

condensed milk

flaked almonds,

approx. 30 g chocolate,

dried apricots, nuts for decoration.

Put all the dough ingredients in a bowl and mix with

a mixer until smooth. Then knead the dough into a

ball and put it in the fridge for 10 minutes.

Roll out the cooled dough into a thin pastry and

stick it to the bottom and sides of the tart mould

with a diameter of 26 cm. Prick the dough with a

fork and bake at 180°C (fan assisted oven) for 25-

30 minutes.

Blend the butterscotch mass with soft marge or

butter. Remove the cooled dough from the mould

and spread with the prepared filling. Spread the

dried fruit and nuts on the butterscotch layer.

Put all the glaze ingredients in a saucepan and

bring to the boil. Stir until the mass is smooth and

shiny. Cool it lightly so that it thickens a bit and

decorate the cake with it. Put aside to set.

115 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


visual guide

where you can take your dog

with you in Polish National

parks ?

The dog is often our best friend. Hence, it's hard to part with him when we

go on vacation. We decided to tell you which national parks in Poland you will

enter with a dog without any problems and where it won't be possible.

There are 23 national parks in Poland. In eight of them, entering with a dog

is entirely prohibited, while in another six there are partial restrictions. In all

National Parks, even in those dog-friendly, they must be kept on a leash –

all of them, regardless of their size – from the smallest to the largest ones.

Especially in the mountains. The point is not to frighten the wild animals

inhabiting the park. There may be a penalty of up to 500 PLN for noncompliance.

guide by:

lovePoland

the guide also available at:

www.lovepoland.org

Because the most popular among you is probably the Tatra National Park,

we provide some information about this Park. It is forbidden to enter with a

dog, however, there are several places where you can take your pet with

you.

These are:

Chochołowska Valley, up to the PTTK Hostel

It is the longest and largest valley in the Polish Tatras, best known from its

spring views of flowery crocus carpets. The trail starts on the glade called

Siwa Polana. The way to the shelter is 7.5 km long which takes 1' 55'' hours.

Droga pod Reglami (the Tatra Mountains)

A beautiful and popular walking route with a view of Zakopane and the

Gubałówka Range. The trail begins in Kuźnice and ends at the outlet of the

Kościeliska Valley in Kiry. The black trail leads along the forest border and

connects the outlets of many Tatra valleys. The starting point is Zakopane -

the ski jump Wielka Krokiew. Length of route: approx. 8.5 km (one way),

about 2 hours.

Gubałówka (the Gubałówka Range)

Gubałówka is a hill rising above Zakopane and one of the most popular

places among tourists visiting Podhale. The ridge offers an exceptionally

beautiful view of the Tatra Mountains and Zakopane below. You can take a

cable car to Gubałówka (a dog ticket required) or walk, following the blue,

yellow or red trail.

Magura Witowska, the Polish-Slovak border runs through its peak. The hill is

forested, on the Polish side there are 2 glades belonging to Witów, on the

Slovak side there is the glade called Magura Witowska.

The black trail from Witów leads to the top. You can reach the top in

approx. 2 hours.

Remember: There are several hotels for dogs in Zakopane and the

surrounding area. You can leave your dog there for a few hours or a few

days and wander on the paths inaccessible to these pets.

116 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


Słowiński

National Park

Wigierski

National Park

Woliński

National Park

Drawieński

National Park

Bory Tucholskie

National Park

Biebrzański

National Park

Narwiński

National Park

Białowieski

National Park

Ujście Warty

National Park

Kampinowski

National Park

Wielkopolski

National Park

Karkonoski

National Park

Świętokrzyski

National Park

Poleski

National Park

Gór Stołowych

National Park

Ojcowski

National Park

Roztoczański

National Park

Babiogórski

National Park

Gorczański

National Park

Magurski

National Park

created by lovePoland

*Accurate: February 2020. We did try to make it as accurate as possible

but always check for possible changes please.

Tatrzański

National Park

Pieniński

National Park

Bieszczadzki

National Park

permitted

partly permitted

not permitted

Kampinoski National Park

Karkonoski National Park

Magurski National Park

Narwiański National Park, with a must-have

muzzle for dangerous dogs

Ojcowski National Park

National Park Gór Stołowych, with a must-have

muzzle for dangerous dogs

Poleski National Park

Świętokrzyski National Park

Wielkopolski National Park

Wigierski National Park, with a must-have

muzzle for dangerous dogs

Białowieski National Park, before entering the

Palace Park and the Hwoźna Protective District

overgrown with forests

Biebrzański National Park, with the possibility

of walking along designated walking routes,

except for the routes of Sośnia and Czerwone

Bagno

Warta Estuary National Park (Pl: Ujście Warty),

ready for visits of four-legged nature lovers,

excluding the conservation areas of Słońsk and

Chyrzyno

Roztoczański National Park, with trails

accessible to dogs, outside the strict

protection area of Bukowa Góra

Słowiński National Park, suitable for walking

with pets, except for the beaches

Babiogórski National Park, outside the

kilometre-long educational trail Mokry Kozub

Bieszczadzki National Park, with the

exception of sections leading along public

roads

National Park „Bory Tucholskie”

Drawieński National Park

Gorczański National Park

Pieniński National Park

Tatrzański National Park, with some

exceptions (see page to the left)

Woliński National Park

117 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND


M I S T E R I A P A S C H A L I A

April 6-13

KRAKÓW

Misteria Paschalia is one of the most important early music festivals in Europe, and has been

organised by the Kraków Festival Office during Easter Week since 2004. The event, whose idea

came from Filip Berkowicz, presents the most fascinating works composed from the Middle Ages

to the 18th century performed by recognised interpreters of the historically informed

performance approach. The programme, drawing from the Christian sources of European

spirituality, brings together the masterpieces of bygone masters and forgotten works that are an

important proof of the performing and composing traditions of their times.

info by: www.misteriapaschalia.com

Place of event: Church of St. Catherine of Alexandria,

"Wieliczka" Salt Mine, ICE Kraków Congress Centre,

and various locations – check website

5 6 J A Z Z O N T H E O D R A F E S T I V A L

April 20-26

WROCŁAW

Each spring the festival, which has been organised since 1964, presents the most interesting jazz

artists from around the world. Throughout the years we saw some of the greatest jazz stars from

Europe and around the world, including Pat Metheny, Paco deLucia, Al diMeola, Kenny Garret, Dave

Holland, Diana Krall, Cassandra Wilson, Lizz Wright and Robert Glasper. What is more, the festival

stages regularly host the most promising musicians of the young generation, including the

laureates of the The Jazz Personality Contest. It is an inseparable part of the festival, and one of

its hallmarks. The oldest and the most prestigious jazz competition in Poland is open for

instrumentalists and singers, who at the time of the festival are 35 or younger. Artistic Director

Leszek Możdżer

more info: www.jazznadodra.pl/en

photo: press materials 56 Jazz on the Odra Festival

Place of event: Impart, festival club

P Y R K O N

May 8-10

POZNAŃ

Pyrkon is a convention for fans of broadly defined fantasy organized in Poznan. From the very

beginning Pyrkon has been organized by the Fantasy Club “Druga Era”. The first edition of Pyrkon

took place in 2000 on a primary school in Dębiec district. At first it was a small convention, but

the idea seemed to kick out. Since then Pyrkon has been evolving nonstop, drawing more and

more fans every year. Today it’s the biggest festival of its kind in Poland and one of the largest in

Europe! Because of the growing number of participants the convention was moved to the Poznan

International Fair in 2011. In 2019 Pyrkon was visited by over 120 000 people. Organizer: The

Fantasy Club “Druga Era” (Second Age)

www.pyrkon.pl/en/about-pyrkon/

Place of event:

On The premises of POZNAŃ INTERNATIONAL FAIR

source photo: pyrkon.pl


P I K N I K B Y O D R A R I V E R

May 9-10

SZCZECIN

One of the biggest open-air fair in Europe with over 100 000 visitors.

The main attraction of the Piknik is the largest tourist fair MARKET TOUR in Western Pomerania,

which has been organised every year since 1992. It is a unique place where representatives of the

tourist industry from Poland and abroad can present to visitors. Go on a culinary journey! The

Avenue of Traditional Products is organised for everyone interested in organic products and

regional flavours. There you will find honey, pastries, local wines, meats and many other highquality

products. Try products from various regions of Poland inscribed on the Traditional

Products List.

more info in Polish: www.pikniknadodra.pl

Place of event: Chrobry embankment and city centre

K R A K Ó W F I L M M U S I C F E S T I V A L

May 26-01 June

KRAKÓW

The Kraków Film Music Festival (FMF), organised by the Krakow Festival Office and RMF Classic,

is a captivating showcase of the highest quality musical interpretations of the moving image and

one of the most important festivals in the world of film music. Performed by leading musicians and

orchestras in Europe and the world, the festival provides a unique concert experience by setting it

to live screenings of the world’s most spectacular films, well-known for their dazzling

cinematography, top-class direction, enthralling plots, and emotive acting. The Kraków Film Music

Festival has become one of the most widely-recognized Polish cultural exports around the world

that has delighted fans since its inception.

more info: www.fmf.fm/about-festival

Place of event: ICE, Tauron Arena, Powiśle 11, Galeria

Kazimierz and other - check website

M A L T A I N T E R N A T I O N A L T H E A T R E

F E S T I V A L

June 19-28

POZNAŃ

This unconventional celebration of the arts featuring fringe and alternative theatre takes place

across the city, often in squares and streets, as well as on the shores of Lake Malta. The year

2020 will be special for the history of Malta. In June that year we will hold the 30th edition of the

festival. It will also be the 11th rendition of the Idiom – the international, themed program of

Malta, thanks to which the members of the public have had the opportunity to discover the works

of renowned theatre artists, dancers and cinematographers. We want this jubilee to be an

opportunity for celebration, but also for a moment of reflection over the social role of the festival

and art in general. That is why we are returning to our roots to look at Malta as an impossible,

utopian island, which came to be in Poznań in the early 1990s, becoming a space for

experimentation, discovering new worlds, but also defining communality.

more at: www.malta-festival.pl/pl

Place of event: varoius


Book Promotion

POLISH VERSION

ONLY

Skrzydlata husaria z impetem przełamuje szyki

nieprzyjaciela.

Niewielki oddział petyhorców rozbija nawet

sześćdziesięciokrotnie liczniejszą armię Moskali.

Owiane nie najlepszą sławą pospolite ruszenie

masakruje regularną armię szwedzką.

Lekka kawaleria roznosi w pył „lud ognisty”.

Uzbrojeni w kopie skrzydlaci jeźdźcy to największa

duma polskiego oręża. Uważani są powszechnie za

najwspanialszą i najskuteczniejszą polską formację

wojskową. I słusznie. Jednak obok nich na polach

bitew nie brakowało innych zabójczo skutecznych

żołnierzy. Wojowników gotowych dumnie walczyć,

godnie przelewać krew za ojczyznę, ale przede

wszystkim zwyciężać.

Radosław Sikora – wybitny znawca staropolskiej

wojskowości jako pierwszy oddaje sprawiedliwość

innym formacjom wojskowym, które obok husarii

broniły interesów I Rzeczypospolitej. Przypomina

ich największe sukcesy. Oddaje głos tym, o

których historia zapomniała. Jednak nie byłby

sobą gdyby nie wspominał również o husarii, której

prawdziwa historia jest wspanialsza od legend.

NIEWYKONALNE

ZADANIE? NAJLEPIEJ

POSŁAĆ TAM

POLAKÓW!

książka do nabycia:

www.znak.pl oraz w

dobrych księgarniach

stacjonarnych i

internetowych

buy at: www.znak.pl

RADOSŁAW SIKORA

NIE TYLKO HUSARIA

Oprawa twarda

Wydanie: pierwsze

ISBN: 978-83-240-5666-

8EAN: 9788324056668

Liczba stron: 368

Wydawnictwo: Znak Horyzont

Format: 163x235mm

Cena katalogowa: 59,99 zł

Rok wydania: 2020

wersja: polska


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