Times of the Islands Spring 2020
Presents the "soul of the Turks & Caicos Islands" with in-depth features about local people, culture, history, environment, businesses, resorts, restaurants and activities.
Presents the "soul of the Turks & Caicos Islands" with in-depth features about local people, culture, history, environment, businesses, resorts, restaurants and activities.
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TIMES
SAMPLING THE SOUL OF THE TURKS & CAICOS ISLANDS SPRING 2020 NO. 130
OF THE
ISLANDS
CAVE ART
Lucayan Petroglyphs
HIDDEN LEGACY
Slavery in Grand Caicos
THE BATTLE BEGINS
Fighting Deadly Coral Disease
T U R K S & C A I C O S ’ U LT I M AT E
FA N TA S Y F O O D FA C E - O F F
Two
spectacular
chefs.
Executive Chef Lauren Callighen
Parallel23 at The Palms
Executive Chef Martin Davies
SUI-REN at The Shore Club
S U I - R E N
Award-winning Executive
Chef Martin Davies fuses
Japanese cuisine with
Peruvian flair into a
brilliant blend of the
PA R A L L E L 2 3
Award-winning Executive
freshest seafood and
organic produce.
Chef Lauren Callighen
works her magic with
Caribbean fusion
cuisine featuring the
freshest local ingredients
And
you're the
judge.
seasoned with an abundant
dash of creativity.
A T T H E P A L M S O N G R A C E B A Y
at The Shore Club on Long Bay Beach
Open nightly 6:00 –10:30pm
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2 0 1 9
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Beaches ® is a registered trademark. Unique Vacations, Inc. is an affiliate of Unique Travel Corp., the worldwide representative of Beaches Resorts.
@beachesresorts
contents
Departments
6 From the Editor
15 Getting to Know
Gustarvus O’Neil Lightbourne
By Carlton Mills, Willette Swann & Tanya Parnell
22 Eye on the Sky
Nature’s Ephemeral Vortex
By Paul Wilkerson ~ Photos By Marta Morton
28 Creature Feature
Armadillos of the Sea
By Brian Heagney ~ Photo By Marta Morton
71 Around the Islands
Not Your Average Golf Course
By Jody Rathgeb ~ Photos By Tom Rathgeb
73 About the Islands/TCI Map
77 Subscription Form
78 Where to Stay
80 Dining
82 Classified Ads
Features
44 Hidden Legacy
By Ben Stubenberg
54 Inclusion Matters
By Norah Machia ~ Photos By Anthony Machia
Green Pages
30 The Battle Begins
By the Staff of the Turks & Caicos Reef Fund
34 The Elusive Octopus
By Dr. Caitlin E. O’Brien
38 Phoenix from the Ashes?
Story & Photos By B Naqqi Manco
TIMES
OF THE
ISLANDS
SAMPLING THE SOUL OF THE TURKS & CAICOS ISLANDS SPRING 2020 NO. 130
On the Cover
Turks & Caicos Islander Dominique Rolle made a special
trip to the Caicos pineyards (under the guidance
of B Naqqi Manco) to shoot this thriving “parent tree”
that is producing cones and seeds that are the hope of
reforesting the area. See the inspiring story on page 38.
Dominique is one-half of the industry-changing media
firm Caya Hico Media (www.cayahicomedia.com).
Astrolabe
64 Cave Art
By Dr. Michael P. Pateman
67 The Layers of History
Story & Photos By John Galleymore
Correction:
In the Winter 2019/20 issue, the article “Ice Cream in
Parrotice” commented, “A previous restaurant that sold
ice cream had gone dormant . . .” Longtime North Caicos
entrepreneur Karen Preikschat quickly dispelled this
notion! She says, “We started making homemade ice cream
at Silver Palm Restaurant in 2012/2013 with a borrowed
ice cream maker. We tested and created our signature
all-natural flavours: Toasted Coconut, Butter Pecan, Rum
& Raisin, Vanilla and Chocolate, all best-sellers. We also
offer Strawberry, Red Raspberry and Blackberry sorbet. In
2014 we opened Silver Palm Bistro at Horse Stable Corner
in Whitby. My husband Poach has made some changes to
the bistro and is now offering local cuisine at the Two Fat
Brothers Restaurant. We are a seasonal business, never
dormant. Our clients are still enjoying our ice cream at
the restaurant where we serve scoops, cups and pints. We
have customers bringing coolers from Provo to fill with
our ice cream! See our Trip Advisor site for the restaurant
and bistro for comments about our ice cream.”
KAREN PREIKSCHAT
4 www.timespub.tc
TurksAndCaicosProperty.com
Bernadette Hunt
+1 649 231 4029 | +1 649 941 3361
Bernadette@TurksAndCaicosProperty.com
Bernadette has lived in the Turks and
Caicos Islands for over 21 years and
witnessed the development and transition
of the islands into a significant tourist
destination. Based on independent
figures her gross transaction numbers
are unrivalled. Bernadette has listings on
Providenciales, Pine Cay, Ambergris Cay,
North and Middle Caicos and is delighted
to work with sellers and buyers of
homes, condos, commercial real estate
and vacant undeveloped sites.
Turks and Caicos Property is the leading
independent real estate firm in the Turks
and Caicos Islands with offices located
at Ocean Club West Resort and Ocean
Club West Plaza on the Grace Bay Road.
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sand and calm clear waters of Sapodilla Bay, one of the Turks and Caicos Islands most coveted
locations to reside. The 2 storey, 4,200 sq. ft. property is perfect for large families and
is currently operated as a successful rental income property with two separate, 2 bedroom
2 bathroom suites with breathtaking views of the tranquil beach and turquoise waters.
The property provides an owner with the option to rent the entire property, or live in the
upper or lower level while continuing to operate the vacant level as a vacation rental.
US$4,500,000
Bernadette’s reputation and success
has been earned over time through her
dedication, enthusiasm and passion for
real estate. Her personal experience
as having practiced law in the islands
for more than 10 years together with
owning and renovating a number of
properties means she is well-placed to
advise her customers and developers on
what to anticipate in the purchasing and
construction process.
Bernadette delights in working in the
real estate industry and her humor and
energy make her a pleasure to work with.
from the editor
DOMINIQUE ROLLE—CAYA HICO MEDIA
This pine cone, and the seedlings that are sprouting from its seeds, represent the hope of reforestation for the imperiled Caicos pine yards.
A Seed of Hope
Folks around my age, give or take a decade or two, reminisce about the sprawling, majestic “pine yards” that
flanked the southern rock flats of North and Middle Caicos. They had a mysterious and awe-inspiring aura, representing
a wild, unexplored part of the Caribbean. The Caicos pines themselves —TCI’s National Tree — are a unique
species found nowhere else in the world. I was sad when I first heard 20 years ago that an invasive scale insect —
likely introduced via imported Christmas trees — was devastating the pine yard, followed by the “perfect storm” of
fire, flood and hurricane. I recall weeping on a trip to Middle Caicos when the tall, lush forest that used to hover in
the distance like a mirage was gone. To me, it was a symbol of an old way of life that was rapidly disappearing as
development, immigration and social change swept through the Turks & Caicos.
With great joy I read B Naqqi Manco’s article in this issue’s Green Pages. Thanks to his devotion with others
through the Caicos Pine Recovery Project, many leaps of faith and a great deal of hard work, the first once-damaged
tree is finally thriving and producing cones with their seeds spouting anew. I pray a similar resurrection is possible
for corals coming under attack from Stony Coral Tissue Loss Disease, finally under treatment thanks to the persistent
efforts of Don Stark and the Turks & Caicos Reef Fund, requiring much help from volunteers.
Thanks to Naqqi, Don and all those whose tireless labor and love, enhanced by a touch of God’s grace, are helping
to keep the Turks & Caicos Islands “Beautiful by Nature,” inside and out. You are my heroes.
Kathy Borsuk, Editor
timespub@tciway.tc • (649) 431-4788
6 www.timespub.tc
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2 0 1 9
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TIMES
MANAGING EDITOR
Kathy Borsuk
ADVERTISING MANAGER
Claire Parrish
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
Kathy Borsuk, John Galleymore, Brian Heagney,
Norah Machia, B Naqqi Manco, Carlton Mills,
Dr. Caitlin E. O’Brien, Tanya Parnell, Dr. Michael P. Pateman,
Jody Rathgeb, Ben Stubenberg, Willette Swann,
Turks & Caicos Reef Fund Staff, Paul Wilkerson.
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
Almay Ltd., V. Di Miccoli, John Galleymore, Heidi Hertler,
International Slavery Museum Liverpool, Anthony Machia,
B Naqqi Manco, Mat Matlock, Marta Morton, NOAA,
Dr. Caitlin E. O’Brien, Tanya Parnell, Dr. Michael P. Pateman,
Karen Preikschat, Tom Rathgeb, Dominique Rolle—
Caya Hico Media, Barbara Shively, Bengt Soderqvist, Turks
& Caicos Reef Fund, Wikicommons, Amano Williams,
Yale University Press.
CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS
Claire Parrish, Wavey Line Publishing
PRINTING
PF Solutions, Miami, FL
OF THE
ISLANDS
Times of the Islands ISSN 1017-6853 is
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14 www.timespub.tc
getting to know
From top: Gus walks with HM Queen
Elizabeth II prior to receiving the Queen’s
Commendation of Member of the British
Empire (MBE) on January 1, 1966. (Also see
bottom right photo.)
Gus stands with Deacon James Dean. Gus was
an active leader of the TCI Baptist Union’s
Deacon’s Board for 30 years.
Clockwise from top: Kathleen (“Katie”) Howell Lightbourne was Gus’s wife for 50 years.
Livingstone Swann was Gus’s “regarded brother,” longtime business partner and friend. Gus
was one of the country’s first taxi drivers. Gus stands with his grandsons Gregory and Elry
and son Tom. This is the front road in Blue Hills in 1967, with one of the three bicycles that
was on Providenciales. A sloop is under construction in Blue Hills, probably around 1970.
A Remarkable Journey
The life and times of Gustarvus O’Neil Lightbourne.
By Carlton Mills, Willette Swann & Tanya Parnell ~ Photos Courtesy Tanya Parnell & Bengt Soderqvist
Times of the Islands Spring 2020 15
Early life
Gustarvus Lightbourne (affectionately called Gus) was
born on January 27, 1921 to Mr. and Mrs. Emmanuel
Lightbourne of Blue Hills, Providenciales. He attended
the Blue Hills School in High Rock and was taught by Mr.
Aaron Gardiner. Boys usually attended school until they
reached the age of 14, when they would learn a trade or
go fishing for a living. Gus was brought up by his grandparents,
who made sure that he attended school.
Gus’s life was filled with challenges and hardships. On
November 30, 1934, the General Express, a boat carrying
his father, his mother and two sisters, disappeared from
his sight in rough weather, never to be seen or heard from
again. This must have been a horrifying experience for
this young boy who had just become a teenager, yet he
still managed to move on. Those who knew Gus say, “He
always prepared for the worse.” Perhaps this early experience
influenced that attitude.
Another attitude apparent in Gus and his sons was
confident self-reliance. In the 1980s, when the flight
instructor consistently failed to show, Gus’s younger son
taught himself to fly an airplane. Gus’s elder son taught
himself plumbing with the new materials marketed in the
1970s.
Young men look forward to owning a boat and in the
1930s, Gus took on the job of building one. Gus and
his “regarded” brother Livingstone Swann had gone into
the interior of Providenciales and found the branches
they considered suitable timbers for framing the size he
wanted. They had all the timber in the backyard when Gus
engaged a boat builder who was too busy to get to his
job. While waiting, Gus set the stern and transom into the
keel. When Gus’s grandfather Thomas Lightbourne (“Ole
Olemer”) saw what the boys had done he heaped encouragement
on them. Gus finished the boat and, at age 18,
was the owner of the G.L. Progress.
This boat made several trips to Haiti which was one
of the TCI’s main trading partners. Gus would take conch
and other marine products from the local fishermen to
Haiti to trade. In return, he brought back essential equipment,
food items, clothing, etc. His bold initiative opened
the gateway for a variety of goods and services to reach
the previously neglected Caicos Islands. During World War
II, when Turks & Caicos would otherwise be shut off from
the rest of the world, boats like the G.L. Progress made
several trips to Haiti to keep supplies coming in.
As it stood then, the bulk of the Islands’ international
trading activities took place at the ports of Grand Turk
and South Caicos. For people in the other Caicos Islands
to purchase items for their survival they had to travel to
South Caicos or Grand Turk by small sloops. With Gus’s
initiative, they now had direct contact with international
trading partners — The Bahamas, Dominican Republic and
Haiti.
Gus loved building boats. He built several and bestowed
on them fancy names such as the Glancing Shadow, the
Smack, K.C.M. Orlando (Livingstone Swann, Gus and
Livingstone’s brother Barrymore went on to marry three
of Edgar Howell’s daughters—Kathleen, Christiana and
Myrtle, and Barry spent time picking oranges in Orlando,
hence the boat’s name) and the Cassius (from the boxing
champion Cassius Clay). The Cassius was not a sailboat,
but was built for an outboard motor. Her faster speed
(from the same horsepower) and easier manoeuvrability
made her competitive for all-around efficiency with the
larger longboats built by Daniel Delancy. Gus not only
loved to build boats he also loved to race boats. He piloted
from the lee side and his competitors thought, “What nonsense”
until after the race.
Gus Lightbourne had a character larger than life. He is
described by many as a man who would tell you a piece
of his mind in a heartbeat. He was a no-nonsense fellow,
straightforward and plain-speaking, who did not stand for
foolishness. You knew where you stood with him because
he cut no corners. He was also described as being a sharp
fellow for his intellectual/engineering ability. This earned
him the nickname “Sharper.” He fell in love with Kathleen
“Katie” Howell and on September 28, 1944 they were married.
This union produced four children. Only two of them
survived past infancy.
Life’s challenges
Gus’s life was filled with challenges. He got shipwrecked
aboard the Lady Austin in 1941 while on a trip to
Mayaguana, Bahamas. In September 1945, while fishing
off Blue Hills on the G.L. Progress with a crew of five men,
a dangerous hurricane impacted the Islands. They were
totally unaware of the hurricane’s approach because, at
the time, they did not have modern warning systems.
Their mast broke and they drifted at sea for 12 days without
food and water. Through it all, God was with them.
Gus named the first land they sighted Atwood Cay
(Samana Cay is the more popular name today). With this
inspiration they struggled with wind and current, without
success, to get to Acklins. They finally ended up on
Crooked Island, Bahamas. They may have sold whatever
equity was left in the G.L. Progress to get themselves
16 www.timespub.tc
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treated and back home. This was a test of his faith which
did not stop him.
In 1946 Gus, still undeterred by his previous losses,
launched the 10 ton General Progress. This boat was used
to take passengers to Pine Ridge, Grand Bahama (Freeport)
and bring back lumber and remittances from family members
living and working there. Because of hardships at
home, many men from the TCI sought economic opportunities
in The Bahamas to be able to provide for their
families. This link provided an opportunity for people to
travel to and from The Bahamas and fostered the opportunity
for trade. This was another vital service that Gus was
instrumental in providing.
It is through this initiative that Gus was able to establish
a long-lasting relationship not only between The
Bahamas and the TCI, but specifically with Pine Ridge and
the Caicos Islands. There was a labour agreement between
the two country’s governments; these trips serviced that
agreement. Many of the men from the Islands found
employment opportunities in the Pine Yard in Freeport.
As Freeport developed, they found work in the hotels and
taxi business.
Unfortunately, after more than 40 trips, the General
Progress was wrecked in July 1954. Another misfortune
for Gus, but despite this major setback the trade continued
using a leased boat called the Cherry Top. Most of the
lumber was consigned to the Turks & Caicos Government—
still repairing 1945 hurricane damage. Perhaps the most
important cargo was not lumber though, but remittances
to family members of those employed in Pine Ridge.
In mid-1958 the famous 20 ton K. C. M. Orlando
was launched. The Orlando served Turks & Caicos well:
Customs officials say she was 21 tons—she always came
home overloaded. During Hurricane Donna in September
1960, Gus watched as two year-old K. C. M. Orlando parted
moorings at Wheeland. Recognising her importance to the
life and livelihood of his people he gave chase on foot. She
smashed one side and ended up on Piece-O-Bay (a small
piece of sandy beach between what is now Thompson
Cove and Turtle Cove Marina). Because she was badly
needed, a praiseworthy repair effort was exerted and by
December she was back at sea. In February 1967, after
35 trips to The Bahamas and 3 to Puerta Plata, she was
wrecked in a storm with 26 adults and 16 children aboard.
Not one of the passengers or crew was lost.
Church life
Gus was a devoted Christian who spent much of his time
18 www.timespub.tc
while not at sea participating in his church—Bethany
Baptist in Blue Hills. Every time you met him, he would
speak of the goodness of his God. He was baptized in
March 1939 and served as a Sunday School teacher and
secretary from 1939 to 1955.
In July 1954, his faith was tested. While he was in his
field, he got the news that his first-born son had suffered
a serious wound. Ironically, there was no boat to
take him to South Caicos to see a doctor. The following
night, the house caught fire. Despite these unfortunate
circumstances, which would have provided good reason
for others to remain at home, Gus was present in church
on Sunday morning.
After teaching Sunday School that day, there was no
preacher present and the congregants encouraged Gus
to take the pulpit. One member argued with him when he
said he felt “unfit for the position,” telling Gus, “If you’re
not fit for one thing, you’re not fit for any other.” He took
the pulpit and from that day, never looked back. When the
new church building was dedicated on March 25, 1955,
Gus was ordained as a deacon by itinerant minister Rev.
R.E. Rhynie.
In 1964, Gus was seconded to lead the congregation
at Jericho Baptist Church in The Bight. Having met that
need and returned to Bethany, Gus was instrumental in
getting electricity to the church in 1971 with its own generator.
He was the first without formal theological training
to become president of the Turks & Caicos Islands Baptist
Union from 1966–1973 and vice president from 1973–
1981.
In 1969 Gus, along with Rev. E.N.S. Hall, represented
the Turks & Caicos Islands Baptist Union at a regional
conference in Jamaica. During this time, the TCI Baptist
churches were supported by the Jamaica Baptist Union.
At this meeting, he made an appeal for help with training
local ministers, and by the following year training would
be provided for the first five ministers from TCI to take
over the running of the churches. This is what he was agitating
for in his speech and daily actions for many years.
His dream had come true and he credited his God for all
of his successes.
Politics
The island of Blue Hills (Providenciales) that Gus lived on
in the early 1950s was undeveloped. Residents traversed
via footpaths. There was no electricity, no banking, no
running water and no indoor plumbing. Commercial and
economic life was centred around Grand Turk, Salt Cay
and South Caicos—the Salt Islands as they were called.
Times of the Islands Spring 2020 19
M Page 1
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P
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HUGH G. O’NEILL
&
ATTORNEYSN
AT
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P.O. Box 267
Hibernian House
1136 Leeward Highway
Providenciales
Turks and Caicos Islands
B.W.I.
Tel 649-946-4514
Fax 649-946-4955
Email hugh.oneill@hgoneillco.tc
C
CO. O
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The Salt Islands had some form of political representation
in the form of nominated members. The other Caicos
Islands were not really considered part of the family of
Islands. The country, being governed from Jamaica, was
far removed from direct political involvement. No political
figure considered visiting the other Caicos Islands
because of their remoteness. Gus was one who set about
agitating for social and economic changes.
When Governor of Jamaica HE Sir Hugh Foot visited the
Caicos Islands in 1953, he held a town meeting where all
Caicos Islanders should attend. Paul Higgs and Gustarvus
Lightbourne stood out as potential leaders. When invited
to Grand Turk to meet with Governor Foot, both men
challenged him for provision of political representation to
the Caicos Islands. After much persuasion, the governor
agreed and by 1956 held a trial general election.
Members of the Caicos Islands were involved in the local
government. This was regarded as TCI’s first Legislative
Assembly. Because of the nature of the 1956 government
(unsupported by a Constitution Order) the new members
could not receive any form of compensation. They got
themselves to and from meetings in Grand Turk. This did
not matter to these men, who were about country, not
self. They worked for three years putting together a new
constitution which came into force in 1959.
This was a significant political milestone for the TCI as
things were happening rapidly in the British West Indies.
The constitution that these men designed accommodated
authority for the Administrator (local government),
Jamaica (the administrator of record), the West Indian
Federation and the UK. Soon they were back to the drawing
board as Jamaica was withdrawing from the Federation,
opting for independence. Then the Federation itself collapsed.
This provided the opportunity for TCI to break
away from Jamaica. Five elected representatives from the
Caicos Islands voted for improved status with the UK; four
from the Salt Islands voted to be part of Jamaica. Gus was
a part of the team that went to Jamaica and to the UK to
discuss the logistics of implementing this change. The
new constitution came into force on August 6, 1962, a
clear indication of the team’s vision.
The new constitution included:
• A Legislative Body consisting of some ex-officio
members, some nominated members and a number of
members elected by universal adult suffrage.
• An Executive Council consisting of officials and
elected members of the Legislature with whom the
Commissioner would be required to consult.
This was the beginning of a new political direction for
20 www.timespub.tc
the TCI. Local members were now involved in discussions
about the direction in which the country should go.
During Gus’s 1962 term in office, times in the Islands
were tough. The salt industry was on the decline and
there were talks of a merger with The Bahamas. This
failed in 1964. Our leaders felt that The Bahamas needed
to better develop their own southeastern islands before
the TCI could consider becoming a part of them. They
also remembered their past experience with The Bahamas
which led to the Separation Act of 1848. However, they
agreed to meet with officials of The Bahamas and continue
talks after two years. While they waited, an opportunity
arose.
A group under the leadership of Fritz Ludington was
attracted to Providenciales while flying over, amazed at its
natural beauty. They saw the potential for development
and immediately submitted a proposal to the government.
Of course, one of the first persons they met with
was Gus. He believed that if Providenciales were to move
forward, government would have to sacrifice land. Almost
single-handedly, Gus brought this opportunity to fruition.
Despite his conviction and eagerness, Gus had a major
obstacle. Mr. Wood, who chaired the council of the day,
adamantly opposed the development—but Gus did not
give up. Members of Bethany Baptist Church remembered
Gus preaching that God’s Word accomplishes that
for which it is sent, even though that fact might not be
immediately apparent. He spoke that Word in the House
of Assembly, then went to his abode to rest. He later
described how he received a vision from God to go and
see Mr. Wood. He obeyed. As Gus walked towards the
north, Chairman Wood was walking south to see him to
indicate his approval.
The Assembly voted in favour of the development—the
initiative that jump-started the economy of Providenciales.
Gus fought for this because he believed that once
Providenciales developed, it would positively impact the
Caicos Islands and eventually the entire Turks & Caicos
Islands.
Gus Lightbourne had a passion for his country. He
was a true patriot. He served for three consecutive terms
(1956, 1959 and 1962) giving him nearly a dozen years
of providing representation for his people.
Other achievements
Gus’s life was blessed with several major achievements,
including being Providenciales’ first trucker, first frozen
grocer and first taxi driver. He was the recipient of the
Queen’s Commendation of Member of the British Empire
(MBE) on January 1, 1966 and the Order of the British
Empire (OBE) on June 13, 1998. He was also appointed as
Justice of the Peace.
Gustarvus Lightbourne was an outstanding Turks &
Caicos Islander. He was certainly a man committed and
dedicated to country. He was relentless in his efforts to
make the Caicos Islands a place where his people could
live comfortably. His actions clearly demonstrated that he
believed that Turks & Caicos Islanders should play their
rightful roles in their country.
Gus enjoyed sharing his experiences with anyone
who found the time to listen. He held a treasure trove
of historical knowledge and I am honoured to have had
the opportunity to sit at his feet. He passed away on
September 24, 2005. It was great loss for the Turks &
Caicos Islands. a
Times of the Islands Spring 2020 21
eye on the sky
Opposite page: Waterspouts form rather infrequently under general thunderstorms over the open ocean.
Above: In the Turks & Caicos Islands, spotting waterspouts has been a bit more common over the last several years.
Nature’s Ephemeral Vortex
The spin on waterspouts.
By Paul Wilkerson ~ Photos By Marta Morton, www.harbourclubvillas.com
Waterspouts have been occurring for as long as memories have been recorded. On August 19, 1896 a
waterspout developed over Vineyard Sound near Cottage City, Massachusetts. While at the time, it was
rare for these to be seen from land, especially in the Northeast, mariners often saw these twisting clouds
over the open waters of the Atlantic. These sailors would return with their stories, and often regaled locals
about their close encounters with this strange phenomenon.
Times of the Islands Spring 2020 23
Here we are, some 124 years later, and we remain
just as fascinated with these meteorological wonders.
Waterspouts happen across the globe, with most occurring
in tropical and sub-tropical locations. It is however,
not out of the question to see waterspouts form over
large lakes as well as in northern latitudes, such as off
the coast of Maine and Massachusetts.
In the Turks & Caicos Islands, spotting waterspouts
has been a bit more common over the last several years. It
isn’t necessarily that they are occurring more frequently,
but that with advances in technology, people can more
readily can capture these events with their cell phones
and transmit photos around the world in seconds.
Are waterspouts the same as tornadoes?
We need to first take a look at how waterspouts form and
how they relate to their more sinister cousins, tornadoes.
Waterspouts form rather infrequently under general thunderstorms
over the open ocean. They also occur under
towering cumulus clouds and even form at times under
fair weather cumulus. Waterspouts that form at the base
of a thunderstorm tend to be stronger than those that
develop under other forms of cumulus clouds.
In order to get waterspouts to form, there needs to
be a clockwise turning of the winds in the atmosphere
starting at the water surface. It is common to have winds
out of the southeast at the surface in the Islands. Two
hundred feet above the water, winds may be from the
south. Four hundred feet above the water, winds could
be from the southwest. It is this turning in the winds as
you ascend into the atmosphere that causes a column of
air to rotate. As this column of air rotates and contracts,
speeds increase in response.
The first indication of a waterspout may be the formation
of a clockwise swirl on the water’s surface. Once
the column of air begins to rotate faster, a spiraling spray
ring may become noticeable as water is lifted off the surface
and becomes airborne around the whirling vortex
itself. As the vortex matures, moisture may condensate,
causing cloud formation within the vortex and giving
NOAA PHOTO LIBRARY
On August 19, 1896 a waterspout developed over Vineyard Sound near Cottage City, Massachusetts. This is believed to be one of the first
photographs of a waterspout.
24 www.timespub.tc
TWATIMES_Layout 1 2/16/17 7:49 AM Page 1
viewers a complete view of the rotating column of air
from the base of the cloud all the way to the water. In
some cases, the funnel may not fully condensate, leaving
those watching only a view of the funnel at the water’s
surface and directly at cloud level.
Waterspouts usually are not a long lasting event.
They generally will dissipate after warm air is no longer
being pulled into the vortex. This can be caused by rainfall
cooling the air directly around the funnel or the inflow
of cooler air in the area.
On occasion, if waterspouts form close enough to
land, they can come ashore and are then called tornadoes.
Conversely, tornadoes that move over water
become waterspouts. Thankfully, waterspouts are not
nearly as strong as their more formidable cousins that
form frequently each year in the United States. The life
cycle of a tornado almost always starts with a very strong
thunderstorm and generally occurs over the central and
southern plains of the United States. For tornadoes to
occur, very strong upper level winds are necessary, along
with a sharp drop in temperatures as you ascend in the
atmosphere. When these ingredients come together, they
can produce strong thunderstorms that sometimes produce
tornadoes. Tornadoes are classified on the Enhanced
Fujita scale with winds ranging from 65 MPH on the low
end to more than 200 MPH on the high end.
Thankfully, tornadoes are extremely rare in the
Islands. In general, the only time tornadoes occur in the
Turks & Caicos is during hurricanes. Several tornadoes
reportedly occurred during the thrashing Hurricane Irma
inflicted on the country in 2017. Also, a rare tornado was
observed at the Providenciales International Airport on
April 8, 2011 that lasted ten minutes. It caused no damage
but raised dust on the runway.
Serving international & domestic clients in real estate, property development,
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TEL 649.946.4261 TMW@TMWLAW.TC WWW.TWAMARCELINWOLF.COM
Are waterspouts dangerous?
Yes, waterspouts can be dangerous. While they are not
as strong as tornadoes, wind speeds in waterspouts
generally can reach as high as 67 MPH. (However, photogrammetry
has theoretically determined wind speeds
of 180 to 190 MPH occurring 10 meters [32.8 feet] from
the center of the waterspouts.) Imagine you are on a fishing
vessel on the ocean and you encounter one of these
waterspouts. It would not be uncommon to be encountering
winds of less than 10 MPH on the open ocean and
suddenly find yourself encountering 40 to 50 MPH winds
with a waterspout!
Marine vessels are at significant danger when
encountering waterspouts. If you are a marine operator,
Times of the Islands Spring 2020 25
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Temporary suspension PROVO NORTH 12.30pm & 1.30pm Sept 1st to Oct 31st
*
Resumes Nov 1st
it is always advisable to check the weather forecast for
the day and be mindful of any clouds developing in the
area. By keeping an eye on the skies, you can keep your
vessel safely away from developing danger. As a sailor,
if you find yourself staring at a waterspout in close proximity,
you would do well to seek safe harbor. If that is
not available, give the waterspout as wide of a bearth as
possible, as their movement can be unpredictable.
A common myth is that waterspouts will dissipate
when encountering land. This is 100% NOT TRUE.
Waterspouts do routinely come ashore, sometimes with
disastrous results. Beachgoers marvel at the appearance
of a waterspout and falsely assume that it won’t come
near the shore and affect them. There are plenty of documented
stories where people have been caught on the
beach as these watery beasts start causing damage to
waterfront homes, condominium complexes and the surrounding
grounds.
If you find yourself on the beach and taking in the
wonder of a waterspout, you need to be aware that you
are likely at risk of injury should the waterspout transition
to land. It is always best to exercise caution and
take cover inside a building or other sturdy structure.
Waterspouts that transition to land can pick up beach
umbrellas, turning them into spears. They can pick up
lounge chairs and turn them into blunt force objects that
can severely injure people. They can also pick up sand
and cause sandblast injuries to the eyes of folks caught
too close by. When in doubt, seek a safe way out. It is
important!
My family and I have not been privy to seeing a waterspout
in the Turks & Caicos during our visits, but we have
seen images of them from those who have photographed
them. Waterspouts are one of the most spectacular visual
displays Mother Nature offers. Respect this show of power
and view them from a safe location to ensure your ability
to enjoy all that the Turks & Caicos Islands have to offer,
including the lovely weather.
(By the way, one thing you will NOT see in the TCI
is a winter waterspout, also known as a snow devil or a
snowspout. This is an extremely rare instance of a waterspout
forming under the base of a snow squall. Very little
is known about this phenomenon.) a
Paul Wilkerson is an American meteorologist and tourist
who frequents the Turks & Caicos Islands. Along with
his wife and two daughters, the Wilkersons stay actively
engaged with Islanders throughout the year with his
Facebook page Turks and Caicos Islands Weather Info.
26 www.timespub.tc
If you find yourself on the beach and
watching a waterspout, be aware that you
are at risk of injury should the
waterspout transition to land.
creature feature
MARTA MORTON — WWW.HARBOURCLUBVILLAS.COM
Chitons are recognized by eight overlapping armor plates surrounded
and held together by a leathery girdle.
Armadillos of the Sea
Chitons possess a range of amazing qualities.
By Brian Heagney, B.Sc Marine Biology
Tucked away in intertidal rock pools on the southwest point of Gibbs Cay in the Turks Islands, there are
clusters of tiny dinosaurs called chitons. These ancient mariners are easily overlooked by the untrained
eye, but they do deserve a second glance if you have the chance to visit “Stingray Island.” With a fossil
record stretching back to the Devonion period 400 million years ago, these surprising little critters have
a design that has successfully stood the test of time.
28 www.timespub.tc
Chitons, commonly referred to as Coat of Mail shells
or Sea Cradles, are a relatively small marine mollusc easily
recognized by eight overlapping armor plates (valves)
surrounded and held together by a leathery girdle or
mantle. Small nodules of the mineral aragonite embedded
in the shell provide a lens through which the aesthetes
(unique light sensitive cells) lying below can detect light,
movement and possibly even discern shapes. The chiton
essentially “sees” through these opaque rocks in its shell,
visual equipment unlike that of almost any other creature.
The girdle is often ornamented with hairy tufts, bristles,
spikes or scales that provide camouflage and may
also aid in defence. In some species including the largest
(the Gumboot Chiton or Wandering Meatloaf), the mantle
actually covers the entire shell.
The armor plates themselves are articulated and can
flex and move over each other, offering both protection
and freedom of movement over the jagged intertidal
rocks on which they choose to make their home. When
a chiton dies, the girdle decomposes and the individual
plates fall apart. These may be discovered by keen-eyed
beachcombers and are referred to as Butterfly Shells.
Most chitons are herbivorous grazers, roaming the
rocks under cover of darkness, feeding on encrusting
algae by scraping it into their mouth with a tooth-covered
tongue called a radula (from the Latin radere “to scrape”).
There are, however, some carniverous chitons, competing
with all the suspense and horror of a good Ridley Scott
movie. The predatory species Placiphorella velata waits
patiently in ambush, its body held aloft. Smaller animals
seeking shelter and shade under this murderous cave
are crushed to death and consumed should they inadvertently
touch the sensitive tentacles below and spring the
deadly trap above.
The chiton’s teeth are of significant interest to science
as their microscopic structure and composition—a
matrix of organic tissue and inorganic minerals—makes
the teeth incredibly wear-resistant, allowing the chiton to
nonchalantly chew through rock. A chiton literally makes
its home (scar) in the rock by eating the rock away. The
teeth contain magnetite or iron (II, III) oxide, a crystal
compound that is also found in the beaks of homing
pigeons and is the most magnetic of all the natural minerals.
These highly magnetic inorganic teeth are found
nowhere else in the animal kingdom and may explain the
chiton’s remarkable homing ability, after a night of foraging,
to use the Earth’s magnetic field to navigate back
to precisely the same home scar in the rock.
Their taxonomic class name is Polyplachophora
(many plated). Unlike most molluscs, conch for example,
chitons cannot withdraw back into their shell. Instead
they use their very powerful, muscular foot to cling to
the rocks like a limpet and are almost impossible to prise
off. When dislodged from the substrate, the chiton can
roll up into a protective ball, like a tiny marine armadillo.
The chitons’ main predators are man (naturally),
seagulls, starfish, crabs, lobsters and fish. Chitons
are eaten in several parts of the world including the
Caribbean islands of Trinidad, Tobago, The Bahamas,
Aruba, Anguilla, Bonaire, St. Maarten and Barbados. The
foot of the chiton is prepared in a manner similar to abalone.
They don’t seem to be on the menu in the Turks &
Caicos though, conch being the much-preferred option.
Next time you look into a rock pool you may see a
little armored snail, present from the dawn of time with
magnetic teeth that can pulverize rock with its tongue
and see through eyes of made of stone—an amazing little
animal that you probably didn’t even know was there. a
A native of Ireland, Brian moved to the Turks & Caicos
with his wife Sabine in 2016 where they opened The
Humpback Dive Shack on Grand Turk.
Times of the Islands Spring 2020 29
green pages
newsletter of the department of environment & coastal resources
head office: church folly, grand turk, tel 649 946 2801 • fax 649 946 1895
• astwood street, south caicos, tel 649 946 3306 • fax 946 3710
• national environmental centre, lower bight road, providenciales
parks division, tel 649 941 5122 • fax 649 946 4793
fisheries division, tel 649 946 4017 • fax 649 946 4793
email environment@gov.tc or dema.tci@gmail.com • web https://www.gov.tc/decr/
BARBARA SHIVELY
A healthy, thriving star coral formation is a beautiful sight to behold. We must fight Stony Coral Tissue Loss Disease NOW.
The Battle Begins
Treatment program to fight Stony Coral Tissue Loss Disease underway.
By the Staff of the Turks & Caicos Reef Fund (TCRF)
Stony Coral Tissue Loss Disease (SCTLD) is a new coral disease that was first discovered off the coast of
Florida in 2014. Over the past five years it has spread rapidly up and down the Atlantic coast of Florida
and well into the Florida Keys. It is a devasting disease affecting 20 species of very slow-growing corals
that are the foundation of many coral reef systems. In some coral species monitored in Florida, the disease
reportedly had an 80% mortality rate.
30 www.timespub.tc
green pages newsletter of the department of environment & coastal resources
COURTESY TURKS & CAICOS REEF FUND
The cause of this disease is suspected to be bacterial.
The troublesome thing about bacterial diseases is that
they can be easily transferred from one area to another
via currents, marine life and even by divers picking up the
disease’s causative agent on their dive gear and spreading
it by using that same gear on other sites where the
disease has possibly not yet been observed.
SCTLD first appeared in TCI waters in January 2019
on the reefs of South Caicos. Then in May 2019 it was
found on the southern reefs off the coast of West Caicos
and within six weeks it had spread to the reefs covering
the entire length of West Caicos. The disease has moved
eastward and has been observed on the Northwest Point
reefs and even in Grace Bay. In November 2019, SCTLD
was confirmed on the reefs off the coast of Grand Turk.
The “sort of” good news is that the extremely high
water temperatures observed on TCI’s reefs this past
summer appears to have slowed the progression of the
disease. This is only “sort of” good news as the high water
temperatures caused a major bleaching event, putting a
new stress on the same corals that are susceptible to
SCTLD. Many corals will recover from bleaching and many
appear to be doing so as cooler water temperatures have
returned. But the cooling water is bringing SCTLD back to
life.
Since August 2019, Turks & Caicos Reef Fund (TCRF)
staff and the Department of Environment & Coastal
Resources (DECR) have been monitoring the spread and
progression of the disease on West Caicos, Northwest
Point, Grace Bay and all the way to Pine Cay. Although the
disease outbreak on South Caicos and West Caicos has
been severe, other reefs around Providenciales and Pine
Cay appear to have only minor infections at the present
time. So NOW is the time to act to do something about
SCTLD and prevent severe damage to our valuable and
important coral reefs.
At right: These are the symptoms of Stony Coral Tissue Loss Disease.
It affects 20 species of corals that create much of the structure of
TCI’s coral reefs, including brain corals, pillar corals and boulder corals.
Once a stony coral dies, the structure of the reef begins to decline.
Times of the Islands Spring 2020 31
green pages newsletter of the department of environment & coastal resources
COURTESY TURKS & CAICOS REEF FUND
These volunteers will be the underwater army in the fight against
Stony Coral Tissue Loss Disease. They will be applying a special antibiotic-based
paste to prevent the spread of the disease across TCI’s
beautiful reefs. Prior to entering the “battleground,” they were trained
(from top) in roving diver survey techniques and the proper way to
apply the treatment. Training included an extensive workshop held at
the DECR’s headquarters in The Bight.
In late January 2020, the TCI Government’s
Department of Environment and Coastal Resources
approved a treatment plan for SCTLD proposed by the
Turks & Caicos Reef Fund. This treatment protocol is
based on research conducted by scientists in Florida who
have been dealing with the consequences of this disease
since 2014. We happily will benefit from all this research
and not have to reinvent the wheel.
Our proposed treatment protocol involves making a
paste of a base (either shea butter or a special base created
by a pharmaceutical supplier in Florida) incorporated
with amoxicillin, a penicillin antibiotic. That antibiotic
paste is then spread on a coral head around the margin of
the infected area. If the base is shea butter, it is then covered
with modeling clay to hold it in place. In Florida, this
treatment has been shown to be between 67% and 80%
effective in stopping the disease progression. The coral
head will have a dead spot where the infection started,
and that area will not likely grow back any coral polyps
as algae quickly takes over, but the rest of the coral head
can be saved in many cases.
TCRF and DECR are now training volunteers and team
leaders on how to identify the susceptible coral species,
how to identify SCTLD and differentiate it from other coral
diseases, how to prepare the antibiotic treatment and
how to administer the treatment. The first team of eight
volunteers was trained on February 6, 2020. Treated coral
heads will be tagged with a yellow or green numbered
tag so that the effect of the treatment can be monitored.
Each treated coral head will be monitored approximately
monthly. In many cases one treatment does the trick, but
in some cases, retreatment will be needed.
“Because this is a treatment done on a coral head by
coral head basis, it is very time consuming,” said Alizee
Zimmermann, Project Manager for the TCRF’s treatment
effort. “We are going to need more volunteers who are
experienced divers, who have flexible schedules and who
do not have a penicillin allergy to tackle this potentially
devastating problem. We also need a lot of eyes on the
reef, so we will be conducting special training sessions
for volunteers who may not fit the requirements to be one
of the treaters, but who can help us gather data on the
extent and progression of the disease by doing what we
call roving diver surveys.”
Roving diver surveys are a simple technique which
involves swimming in a line at a fixed depth for a min-
32 www.timespub.tc
green pages newsletter of the department of environment & coastal resources
imum of 10 minutes and counting all the corals in an
area approximately six feet wide. The susceptible species
are tallied as undiseased, potentially diseased, diseased
or dead. A large number of volunteers are needed to
conduct these surveys all around the TCI. Any diver interested
in becoming a roving diver surveyor should contact
the TCRF at info@tcreef.org.
SCTLD affects 20 species of corals that create much
of the structure of our coral reefs. These include brain
corals, pillar corals and boulder corals. It is not thought
to affect sponges or soft corals such as sea whips and sea
fans, but these species do little to provide coastal protection
or habitat for fish and other animals that live on the
reefs. When a stony coral dies from SCTLD, it begins to
erode and the structure of the reef begins to decline.
Obviously, this treatment approach is very laborintensive,
time-consuming and costly, but it has to be
done to save the TCI reefs. TCRF’s goal is to be out on
the water at least two days a week treating and monitoring.
This means we will need a fairly large group of
volunteer divers who have flexible schedules and can go
out to work with TCRF on this project. Any experienced
diver (over 100 dives) who is not allergic to penicillin and
who is willing to learn the challenging art of coral identification
is encouraged to contact TCRF about becoming a
volunteer for this effort by emailing donstark@tcreef.org
or calling TCRF directly at 649 347 8455 or filling out the
volunteer form on the TCRF website (www.tcreef.org).
TCRF has reached out to local businesses and individuals
in an attempt to raise money to support this effort,
but more funding is needed if we are to be successful in
saving the TCI reefs. Funding is needed to pay for a project
manager to oversee the work, boat use and fuel and
supplies (amoxicillin, shea butter, syringes, gloves, etc.).
If you want to help, please go to www.tcreef.org/donate
or contact TCRF Chairman Don Stark directly at 649 347
8455 to contribute to the cause! a
Special thanks to those businesses and individuals who
have already generously donated to support this effort,
including Dive Provo who has allowed our project manager
for this effort to go out on their boats when space is
available at no charge to do regular monitoring.
Times of the Islands Spring 2020 33
green pages newsletter of the department of environment & coastal resources
BARBARA SHIVELY
Octopuses are among the most intelligent of animals without a backbone, as they have one of the largest of invertebrate brains.
The Elusive Octopus
Octopus spotting in the TCI.
By Dr. Caitlin E. O’Brien,
The School for Field Studies Center for Marine Resource Studies
Caribbean waters are home to several species of octopus, which are some of the most extraordinary creatures
of the ocean. Octopuses (not octopi) can be more difficult to spot than many other marine creatures,
but the experience of seeing one is well worth the effort.
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What are they?
Octopuses are Molluscs in the Class Cephalopoda, along
with squid, cuttlefish and nautilus. The word “cephalopod”
originates from the Greek words for “head” and
“foot,” referring to the fact that their heads are attached
directly to their “feet.” Cephalopods first appeared around
500 million years ago as shelled creatures known as
ammonites, nautiluses and belemnites. Ammonites later
went extinct, existing today only as spiral fossils popular
with collectors. Most nautilus died out too, although six
species still exist in the Indo-Pacific Ocean. Belemnites
eventually evolved into the 800 or so species of squid,
cuttlefish and octopus known today. Among these, most
of the approximately 300 species of octopus live in shallow,
coastal areas, although a few deep-sea and pelagic
species are also known.
Octopus biology is quite bizarre. In addition to a soft
body with eight arms (not tentacles), they possess three
hearts and have blue blood due to the presence of copper
(hemocyanin) rather than iron (hemoglobin). The arms
are also quite extraordinary. Covered with hundreds of
flexible suckers, they are capable of adhering to almost
any surface with considerable force. Not only do they
assist octopus in locomotion, but the suckers also have
the ability to “taste” in order to help locate tasty critters
under rocks and corals. Equally extraordinary is the fact
that an arm severed from the body will eventually grow
back, and sometimes an octopus will even intentionally
sacrifice one to a predator in order to escape.
Octopus have a wide range of near-supernatural
tricks to protect themselves. They can avoid being seen
in the first place due to their ability to change the color,
iridescence and texture of their skin. Small sacs of ink
expand and contract to instantly create different colors
and patterns, and to modify the skin’s reflectiveness. The
effect is accentuated by muscles that can raise or smooth
out patches of skin (papillae) to create a rough texture
resembling algae. When threatened, octopuses can
escape by squeezing themselves through any hole larger
than their parrot-like beak. Alternatively, they can propel
themselves rapidly away by quickly sucking in water and
shooting it out their siphon. They may also eject ink at
the same time, either in the form of a gelatinous blob to
act as a diversion or as a “smokescreen” to hide behind.
Predators of octopus include sharks, dolphins, eels, large
fish and humans.
Octopuses are largely asocial creatures, only seeking
out other octopus towards the end of their lifespans
in order to mate. Before then, they try to steer clear of
others in order to avoid being eaten by one of their own.
Octopuses have only one reproductive event in their
A common octopus swims across the sea floor. It prefers to hunt crustaceans and bivalves in rocky areas and coral reefs at dawn and dusk.
V. DI MICCOLI
Times of the Islands Spring 2020 35
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BARBARA SHIVELY
Caribbean octopus are typically found sheltering in natural rock or
coral crevices.
lives, although both females and males can mate multiple
times. After reaching the end of their natural lifespan
(usually one to two years), males will go through a period
called senescence, in which their bodies rapidly deteriorate
and they behave recklessly, often swimming in the
open without regard to predators before dying or being
eaten. Females on the other hand will select a well-protected
crevice in which to lay their eggs. Thereafter, she
will carefully tend to them, fending off predators and gently
cleaning their surfaces of debris. During this time, she
forgoes food and rarely leaves the den. When the eggs
hatch several weeks later, she dies and the planktonic
young go on to drift in the current until they are large
enough to settle on the seafloor.
Octopuses are among the most intelligent of animals
without a backbone (invertebrate). They can solve
puzzles and mazes, and are notorious for their Houdiniesque
feats of escape from aquarium enclosures. This
cognition is made possible by one of the largest of
invertebrate brains, consisting of more than 200 million
neurons, and which is donut-shaped and wrapped around
the esophagus. In addition, each of the eight arms has
its own “mini-brain” which allows it to perform actions
semi-autonomously. In fact, an arm that is severed from
an octopus will still move, seemingly unaware that it has
been disconnected.
How can I find them?
Octopus of the Caribbean are typically found in relatively
shallow (
green pages newsletter of the department of environment & coastal resources
or attempt to escape. If this happens, the best thing to
do is be as still as possible in order to allow the octopus
to habituate to your presence. However, some octopus
are extremely curious and may reach out to touch you.
If this happens, there is nothing to fear: as soon as they
realize you’re not a crab they will likely let go. Less often,
octopus can be found out hunting. In this case, it is best
to sit back and watch . . . no one likes being interrupted
during dinner!
Octopus vulgaris, the common octopus
In addition to the Caribbean, this species can be found in
tropical and temperate waters across the globe. It ranges
in color from solid white to brown, along with a variety
of mottled patterns. The common octopus can grow up
to three feet long from mantle to arm tips, and hunts
crustaceans and bivalves in rocky areas and coral reefs.
It is a crepuscular species, meaning it prefers to hunt at
dawn and dusk, although it may be found out and about
at other times as well. However, the best way to find
one is to look for holes and crevices with a shell “midden”—
piles of shells and rocks around the den entrance
representing prior meals as well as providing octopus
with a sort of “shield” if a predator attacks.
Octopus briareus,
the Caribbean reef octopus
The Caribbean reef octopus is one of the most beautiful
octopus species due to its typically rainbow appearance.
While they are predominantly blue, they can take on a
range of colors and mottles, including dark red. Fully
grown members of this species can weigh up to three
pounds, eating crustaceans hidden in crevices of coral
reefs. This species is nocturnal, spending daytime in difficult-to-locate
dens. For this reason, the best way to see
one is to go night diving or snorkelling on a shallow coral
reef.
Macrotritopus defilippi,
the Atlantic longarm octopus
The Atlantic longarm octopus is the smallest of the three
species, with the body growing up to three and a half
inches. However, as its name implies, its arms are very
long and it can sometimes be seen using these arms
to masquerade as a flounder. Its color can be anything
between solid white to mottled yellow and brown. It
A Caribbean reef octopus envelops a coral head with its arms in
search of prey.
hunts small crustaceans on the sandy sea bottom and in
seagrass beds, and unlike the previous two species, can
often be seen doing so during the day. Dens are more
difficult to locate, as this species has the ability to bury
itself completely in sand.
Now that you know a little more about these amazing
creatures, you’re ready to get out in the sea and go octopus
spotting. Good luck! a
Further reading
Hanlon, R.T. and Messenger, J.B., 2018. Cephalopod
behaviour. Cambridge University Press.
Jereb, P., Roper, C., Norman, M., Finn, J., et al., 2016.
Cephalopods of the World. An Annotated and Illustrated
Catalogue of Species Known to Date. Vol. 3. Octopods and
Vampire Squids.
Humann, P., Deloach, N. and Wilk, L., 2002. Reef creature
identification: Florida, Caribbean, Bahamas.
HEIDI HERTLER
Times of the Islands Spring 2020 37
green pages newsletter of the department of environment & coastal resources
This Caicos pine seedling, with needles yet to shrug off chunks of the algal mat in which pine seeds often germinate, grew from seeds dropped
in October. It is among the first of its kind grown in the wild in over ten years.
Phoenix from the Ashes?
Good news for the TCI’s National Tree.
Story & Photos By B Naqqi Manco, TCI Naturalist
The Turks & Caicos Islands’ National Tree, the stately Caicos pine Pinus caribaea var. bahamensis, has
had a rough few decades recently. Following the introduction of the invasive pine tortoise scale insect,
which infests trees through their fatality, as well as a sea surge and catastrophic wildfire in 2008–2009,
and then several more significant hurricanes, over 97% of the population of this vital species was lost.
Caicos pine is the foundation species of the pine yard, part of the globally imperiled pine rockland
ecosystem, a habitat unique to the Caicos Islands and northern Bahamas, with fragments in southern
Florida (but hosting a different species of pine).
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Since 2008 the Caicos Pine Recovery Project has
been striving to save the species and help restore its
ecosystem. The team members — researchers, conservationists,
technicians and volunteers from numerous
government agencies, NGOs and institutions — all understood
that their efforts may not yield appreciable or even
visible results during their lifetimes.
Trees work on a different time scale than humans
— they don’t care that we only live a handful of decades
when their lifetimes span centuries. It takes a certain
naïve and somewhat dismal optimism to dedicate one’s
life to saving trees and the ecosystems they support,
along with an acceptance that one really doesn’t have
enough time to carry one’s work to completion because
human mortality will eventually interfere.
A few of those committing their time to Caicos pine
recovery remember the tall, shady forests of pine strewn
across the rocky plains on the southern rock flats of
Middle and North Caicos, a broad band of fragrant forest
sandwiched between the broadleaf thicket and the
mangrove swamps. None of them imagined they would
be there to see the forest return to that sort of glory.
And yet they drudged on: Collecting and sowing seeds,
tending a nursery, cultivating the unique symbiotic fungi
that live on the pines’ roots, cleaning pine needles of
pests, researching the genetics and chemistry and stress
and symbioses of the pines and maintaining the essential
element of fire in their habitat.
Pine yard, surprisingly, is a forest that needs to burn
— it is fire-dependent, and exclusion of fire for too long
Top right: In May 2012, there were very few pine trees in Burn Plot 2, and none were strong enough to reproduce.
Above: In December 2019, the same Burn Plot 2 hosts several dozen healthy, robust Caicos pine trees that have reached reproductive age and
strength. Hundreds more grow in surrounding burn plots.
Times of the Islands Spring 2020 39
green pages newsletter of the department of environment & coastal resources
leads to invasion by broadleaf trees and an eventual total
and permanent takeover. Pine seedlings can’t grow in
broadleaf trees’ dense shade — but broadleaf trees can’t
take repeated ground fires like pine can. Lightning strikes
used to ignite pine yards, but the habitat’s fragmentation
from the scale insect now prevents fires from functioning
in the proper way. Controlled burns are the answer,
wherein teams of specialists prepare the ground, cut firebreaks
and expertly apply fire to the habitat in a way that
it is safe for humans and trees. The first controlled burn
in May 2012 was successful (in that there were no accidents,
escaped fires or pine trees permanently harmed)
but none of the burn team knew just how successful it
would be.
Within months of the burn, there were obvious benefits:
Saplings that had been festooned with scale insects
and stunted for years by their parasitism suddenly
flushed with new growth and quadrupled their height in
a year. The release of nutritious ash into the soil and the
reduction of broadleaf competition, coupled with scale
insects’ dislike of heat and smoke, encouraged growth.
But with mature pines all but gone there was no significant
seed production (those that remained bore cones
that remained scantily fertilized due to low pollen count
in the air) and so no recruitment. The young saplings
grew to two metres, then five, then eight and they finally
began producing cones, but seeds were still few. Caicos
pinecones can hold over 80 seeds and trees can produce
dozens of cones, but production was down to single
digits of seed per tree annually and not all were viable.
More clusters of pines grew, but there was no indication
that the habitat would be self-sustaining within the near
future.
And then, serendipitously in mid-December, which
happens to be Caicos Pine Awareness Month, a remarkable
manifestation was observed in the pine yard. During
a field trip to one of the burn plots by participants in
the collaborative DECR/Bahamas Forestry Unit’s Plant
Identification Training, something familiar caught Junel
“Flash” Blaise’s eye. Having grown hundreds of Caicos
pine seedlings in the project nursery and having rescued
dozens from unsuitable wild spots over the years, Flash’s
sense for finding tiny, newly germinated pine seedlings is
nothing short of supersensory. Under a pine tree on the
far side of Burn Plot #2, he noticed a lime-green, brushlike
seedling. With just a cursory glance around, Flash
The parent tree of the Caicos Pine seedlings, with many other young
and vigorous of its kind in the background, benefited from the 2012
controlled burn.
counted six more, including a seedling so young it only
had its first four needles. The parent tree above had been
a crippled sapling barely a foot high before the 2012
burn, but had grown into a sturdy, four metre tree with
the help of the nutritious ash. Near its crown, a cluster of
fat, chestnut-coloured cones yawned, their scales open
having dropped their seeds in October.
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The 2017 hurricanes Irma and Maria destroyed the
Caicos Pine Recovery Project Nursery and seed collections
for 2019 were put on hold until the nursery could be
rebuilt. But here the Caicos pines had taken up the task
themselves for the first time in over a decade.
The seedlings are an unexpected sign of hope: They
signify that trees are healthy enough to produce viable
seed and numerous enough to shed sufficient pollen to
fertilize young cones. While pine tortoise scale insect is
still present in the pine yard, their infestation is greatly
reduced and trees are healthier and more robust than
they have been since the insect arrived in TCI.
As the seedlings grow, their new roots will knit into
the diverse array of soil fungi that help the pine grow and
Times of the Islands Spring 2020 41
green pages newsletter of the department of environment & coastal resources
AMANO WILLIAMS
draw up the nutritious ash still present in the thin soil
released by the 2012 burn. In time, they will grow taller
and shed their old needles, contributing to the blanket
of fuel for the next burn. If conditions continue to be
favourable, seeds will be produced annually and will help
restore this small patch of pine yard to a density like the
pre-scale insect habitat.
DECR’s own pine seedling expert Junel “Flash” Blaise gleefully points
out one of the newly grown seedlings he noticed in the needle duff.
And while the project team may not be able to see
restored, intact habitat with large mature trees within
their lifetimes, they will continue to watch over the new
seedlings and document their growth—and be excited to
see the first glimpse of the Caicos pine’s unique ecosystem
rising from the ashes. a
To see the National Tree in its natural habitat and witness
the habitat recovery, visit the Caicos Pine Yard
Trail: National Tree Ramble on Middle Caicos (on King
Road, one mile past Conch Bar Caves National Park gate).
The fully-interpreted trail is under half a mile over level
ground and is free to visit sunrise to sunset. It is part
of the 660-acre Caicos Pine Core Conservation Area for
Middle Caicos and protected within the North, Middle and
East Caicos Wetlands Nature Reserve (a Ramsar Wetlands
Convention Site).
Naming Names:
Collaborative Plant Identification Training
Story & Photos By B Naqqi Manco,
DECR Terrestrial Ecologist
The Department of Environment & Coastal Resources
conducted the Turks & Caicos Islands and Southern
Bahamas Plant Identification Training 2019, a
techniques and tools-based approach to learning
methodology for identification of native plants. The
workshop, held from December 16–20, 2019, was the
second in a series of internationally collaborative trainings
between DECR and The Bahamas Forestry Unit.
The first was conducted in New Providence in April
2017 by DECR Terrestrial Ecologist B Naqqi Manco, who
also taught the 2019 event. It focused on species of
interest to The Bahamas Forestry Unit, mainly woody
species associated with their pine forests. As The
Bahamas Forestry Unit’s Seed Collection Project began
bringing them deeper into the southern Bahamas and
into habitats with which they had less familiarity, they
saw a need to utilize DECR’s botanical expertise in the
dry southern islands of the Lucayan Archipelago.
Two participants from The Bahamas Forestry Unit,
Amano Williams and Andrew Curry, learned alongside
participants from DECR and the Turks & Caicos
National Trust. B Naqqi Manco explains, “The training
isn’t meant to be a rote memorization of species in
the field, but rather was approached through recognizing
anatomical features, understanding the related
terminology and using those characteristics to find
the identifications in the texts. Some of the terminology
can be intimidating — for example what does it
mean when a leaf has ‘a retuse apex, crenulate margin,
and oblique base with a subchartaceous texture and
is highly discolored?’ All of these terms relate to features
important in the identification of plants to family,
genus and species.”
Along with teaching plant anatomy, terminology
and descriptions of features, the training also focused
on taxonomic classification, botanical names and the
use of keys in flora texts for identification of plant
species. The course featured a strong field element,
with the first day being a trip to Little Water Cay with
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Clockwise from top left: Participants learn the sense of smell can
be an important identification tool as they inhale the strongly fragrant
scent of nakedwood Myrcianthes fragrans leaves at Wade’s
Green Plantation on North Caicos.
Correll & Correll’s Flora of the Bahama Archipelago is the essential
text for plant identification in the Turks & Caicos Islands.
In Wild Cow Run, Middle Caicos, participants observe the features
of the TCI endemic Britton’s buttonbush Spermacoce brittonii that
identify it as a member of the coffee family.
a practical outcome: annual post-Hurricane Irma plant
monitoring. Several species new to Little Water Cay were
documented during the field training, including eyebright
sedge Scleria lithosperma and tall Encyclia orchid
Encyclia altissima. The second day of the course was
a classroom day with explanations of anatomy, terminology
and texts, and targeted activities including a
dichotomous key exercise. All participants received a
workbook that included compendia of anatomical terminology
and common characteristics.
The third and fourth day took place in Middle and
North Caicos, practicing plant identification in-situ with
use of tools learned on the second day. Participants
visited habitats unique to the archipelago including
dune chapparal and coastal coppice, salina, limestone
thicket, dry tropical forest, ephemeral freshwater wetlands,
rocky ridges and wild-oak bottom.
The final day included a classroom review, examination
and presentation of certificates. Everyone who
sat the exam received a 100% score. Bahamas Forestry
Unit participant Amano Williams shared, “It was a blast,
I learned a lot and it was a great refresher. The instructor
took his time and broke down the terminology. It
was interesting because we’ve been exposed to new
and different species of plants. We hope to continue
building a stronger relation with more training and
projects in the future.” DECR hopes to expand this
training programme by making it more frequent and
adding more advanced subject matter. a
Times of the Islands Spring 2020 43
MARTA MORTON—WWW.HARBOURCLUBVILLAS.COM
feature
Opposite page: Slavery on the Caicos Islands was all about cotton, this beautiful and profitable plant that still grows wild across the Turks
& Caicos Islands. Above: Although this image depicts an amphibious assault by Colonial forces against the British port of Nassau, Bahamas
during the American Revolutionary War, it could easily mirror the arrival of the first British Loyalists on the shores of North and Middle Caicos
and Providenciales following the American Revolution in the late 1700s.
When the first British Loyalists arrived on the shores of North and Middle Caicos and Providenciales following
the American Revolution in the late 1700s, they took with them enslaved people and a mindset
of entitlement and power that mirrored the mores and hierarchy of the American South. The confiscation
of home and plantations by the victorious American Patriots followed by forced exile apparently kindled
no reflection or reconsideration of the practice of slavery as the Loyalists tried to recreate a lifestyle of
privilege in the Turks & Caicos Islands.
Largely left out is the perspective of the people who made possible that lifestyle, as if they were muted
shadows on the wall instead of vibrant actors in their own right. What of the pain and exploitation they
endured? What cracks in the system did they manipulate? And what of their courage under fire that, for
a brief afternoon, put the enslaver and enslaved shoulder to shoulder as equals? Though slavery’s paradox
was plain to see, Loyalists never mustered their own courage to change, even in a defining moment,
holding on to their ways to the end.
Hidden Legacy
Slavery and the Loyalists in “Grand Caicos.”
By Ben Stubenberg
Times of the Islands Spring 2020 45
Exile and second chances
The story of Loyalist settlers to the Turks & Caicos Islands
is well documented. At the conclusion of the American
Revolution, the Patriots bitterly resented those who had
fought for King George III and often tarred and feathered
them (a common mob form of punishment at the time).
Forced off their property (which enriched the victors who
took over), many of the Loyalists in Georgia fled to nearby
St. Augustine in East Florida which had been returned to
Spanish rule.
The Spanish offered to let the Loyalists stay if they
swore allegiance to Spain and converted to Catholicism.
But the Protestant Loyalists (also referred to as Tories, the
political party reflecting their views) refused to convert
and opted to take a chance on a new life in the Bahamas,
which at that time included Turks & Caicos. (See Times of
the Islands Fall 2010, “All the King’s Men” by Dr. Charlene
Kozy.) Other Loyalists fled to the port city of Savannah
and waited in squalid conditions for British ships that
could take them to the Bahamas as well, or other parts of
the British Empire for resettlement.
During this time in limbo, the British government
compensated Loyalists for some or all of the losses suffered
in the now former British colonies with cash and
land grants that enabled them to begin anew. The compensation,
as well as things of value to bring out, allowed
Loyalists to purchase machinery, agricultural implements,
and more slaves, giving them a big advantage in starting
over with new plantations and a second life.
The first stop for many Loyalists was Nassau or
nearby Cat Island, Eleuthera and Abaco. Their presence
immediately caused friction with the long-term white residents
who were mostly poor, illiterate and resentful of
well-to-do refugees who looked down on them. Loyalists
with the means set out for the more fertile and uninhabited
islands of “Grand Caicos,” what we know today as
North and Middle Caicos and Parrot Cay. They were really
the third wave of slaveholders in TCI, the first being the
Spanish enslavers who removed the original Taino and
Lucayan Indians in the late 1400s and early 1500s that,
along with disease and killings, completely depopulated
all of TCI. The Bermudians followed in the late 1600s,
bringing hundreds of slaves to Grand Turk, Salt Cay and
South Caicos to work the salt ponds.
Before setting foot in TCI, the Loyalists knew the
location and acreage of their new plantations in Grand
Caicos. And they knew how much forced labor and tools
they would need to cut and clear the thick brush for planting
of sea cotton, which had already proven to be a viable
crop on the other Bahamian islands. The Loyalist planters
that arrived in Grand Caicos knew one another and kept
in contact with other Loyalist families that had settled
elsewhere in the Bahamas and other British Caribbean
islands. That connection based on common values and
shared experience in exile gave them a measure of social
and political power.
Records tell of Loyalist marriages and offspring, their
business dealings and their political ambitions to enhance
their status in their new island home. We even know the
inventory of luxury goods they loaded onto ships, such
as fine mahogany furniture, china, silverware and linen
sheets. Libraries, musical instruments, spy glasses and
silver dueling pistols rounded out the households of the
stone and wood houses the slaves would build for them.
In fact, some Loyalists modeled their new abodes after
houses where they had lived in Georgia.
There are no records of what they thought when they
squinted out at the hot, low-lying islands of Grand Caicos
covered with thick brush and rocks with few sources of
fresh water. But surely their hearts must have sunk at the
realization that even with slaves, machinery and a few
luxuries, life would probably never reach the level they
enjoyed in the American South.
No let-up for the enslaved
The enslaved, of course, arrived here with nothing except
a strong culture of resilience and adaptation. From the
Loyalist perspective, they existed solely to be exploited
for commercial gain. From the enslaved perspective, life
centered on how to work the system, resist and retain a
measure of dignity in the face of daily oppression. While
Loyalists were able to bring some slaves from Georgia,
the Carolinas and East Florida, they bought new ones at
slave markets in Nassau and Cuba before the final leg
of the journey to Grand Caicos. Thus, new arrivals from
Africa mixed in with an existing culture of people who had
known nothing but slavery.
We can only imagine the great despair and bewilderment
slaves must have felt when they emerged from the
holds of the same sailing ships as the Loyalists. They, too,
shielded their eyes while peering into the bright sunlight
and saw before them the desolate, faraway island, searingly
conscious of their status and grim prospects. The
new home held no promise of a better life, only forced
backbreaking work until death.
As in the American South and throughout the West
Indies, the Loyalists recorded slaves as numbers. How
46 www.timespub.tc
Before setting foot in TCI, the Loyalists knew the location and acreage
of their new plantations in Grand Caicos. And they knew how
much forced labor and tools they would need to cut and clear the
thick brush for planting of sea cotton, which had already proven to
be a viable crop on the other Bahamian islands.
ALMAY LTD.
Times of the Islands Spring 2020 47
many belonged to whom and the purchases, sales and
transfers, along with first names. While a slave’s position
or health condition might be listed, this was the exception.
A sales document dated 20th August 1792 marking
the transfer of slaves between plantation owners Wade
Stubbs and Annis Stubbs provides an example. The document
shows that Annis Stubbs paid “five hundred pounds
sterling” to own 12 people. The document records their
names as George, Phabe, Jeny, Venus, Rachel, Charlott,
Lucy, Jim, York, Nancy, Cathy and Darky and stipulates
“with all their future and increase of their bodies.” The
quoted words make starkly clear the expected continuity
of property through propagation and leaves no doubt
about their belief in the perpetuation of the institution
of slavery. It also lays bare the pure commercial transactional
nature of the practice.
The Bermudian slave holders on Grand Turk, Salt Cay
and South Caicos similarly tracked slaves they used to
produce salt. And both groups counted the slaves who
escaped, as these were serious monetary losses to be
accounted for. In short, the lives of those held bondage
were reduced to bookkeeping.
For slavery to succeed, though, slaveholders had to
maintain constant control through absolute power using
violence or the threat of violence. We are well aware of the
brutality Bermudian slaveholders meted out to slaves who
worked the salt ponds on Grand Turk through the raw
and riveting firsthand account of slavery by Mary Prince.
As recorded and published by abolitionists in London in
the 1830s, Mary tells of the grueling labor and torture
she experienced and witnessed as a slave working the salt
ponds:
Then we had no sleep—no rest—but were forced to
work as fast as we could, and go on again all next
day the same as usual. Work—work—work—Oh
that Turks Island was a horrible place! The people
of England, I am sure, have never found out what is
carried out there. Cruel, horrible place!
If we could not keep up with the rest of the gang of
slaves, we were put in the stocks, and severely flogged
the next morning.
Mr. D—has often stripped me naked, hung me up by
the wrists, and beat me with the cow-skin, with his
own hand, till my body was raw with gashes.
No such detailed account exists for the enslaved on
the cotton plantations of North and Middle Caicos, Parrot
Cay and Providenciales, though life was likely as harsh.
Indeed, the Loyalist slaveholders would have every reason
to omit accounts of violence inflicted on the enslaved in
Grand Caicos. Great Britain had banned the slave trade
in 1807 (not slavery itself) and put in place various laws
to regulate slavery in the West Indies and elsewhere. So,
at least on paper, the laws forbade some egregious practices
and required some care for sick and elderly slaves.
However, in the isolation of Grand Caicos, or even in the
more trafficked Grand Turk, these laws could be safely
ignored as long as everyone kept quiet.
Despite the paucity of written accounts of slave
treatment in Grand Caicos, we can still glean a picture of
slavery on these islands through the records kept, oral
history passed down and witness accounts of the brutality
of slavery in the region. These are largely in sync
with what Mary Prince had revealed through her abolitionist
supporters. For the Loyalist enslavers, the culture
of exploitation in the American South closely paralleled
the one here and, thus, can serve as a historical portal
into the conditions and relationships that likely existed
between slaves and Loyalists.
Exerting control
Presbyterian minister and abolitionist John Rankin’s 1826
Letters on Slavery compellingly describes common slave
treatment at the time that parallel accounts throughout
the West Indies. Control meant keeping slaves hungry and
desperate for food, which could easily be cut off. From
there, as Rankin’s Letters makes clear, slaves faced painful
floggings for not working hard enough, for stealing
food or for no reason at all. Ratcheting up, slaveholders at
times applied more severe forms of torment, including dismemberment,
mutilation and burning to punish and send
a message to others. Notably, Rankin’s Letters recount
the pouring of red pepper or turpentine into wounds and
gashes, not unlike what Mary Prince saw when Bermudian
slaveholders poured salt into the wounds of the enslaved
on Grand Turk. While administering these tortures, slaveholders
would actually read Biblical scripture that in their
interpretation justified and rationalized their actions.
Perhaps the most vivid account of this harsh reality
of slavery is the book 12 Years a Slave by Solomon
Northrup, published in 1853. Made into a major motion
picture in 2013, it won Oscars for Best Picture, Best
Adapted Screenplay and Best Supporting Actress. The
book and the movie detail Mr. Northrup’s experience of
going from a free man in New York to being kidnapped
48 www.timespub.tc
The painting “Am Not I A Man and a Brother” dates to around 1800 and features a dominant motif detailing the
agonizing and insufferable treatment of slaves on a Caribbean sugar plantation during the Transatlantic Slave
Trade. Based on a design commissioned by the Committee for the Abolition of the Slave Trade on July 5, 1787,
the painting is considered to be one of the first instances of a logo designed for a political cause. It was famously
used by the potter Josiah Wedgwood for his persuasive anti-slavery ceramic medallions and went on to become
the dominant image of abolition campaigning in the 18th and 19th centuries.
INTERNATIONAL SLAVERY MUSEUM LIVERPOOL
and forced to work as a slave on a cotton plantation in
Louisiana. After friends secured his release that enabled
him to return to New York, he worked with abolitionist
groups to highlight the conditions he and other slaves
were subjected to. The book and the movie graphically
describe the horrific treatment at the hands of a slave
owner, including sexual exploitation.
It is fair to assume that Loyalist slaveholders, as a
matter of course, continued to carry out such violence on
Grand Caicos slaves, even if application varied. It could be
argued that treatment of slaves on Grand Caicos may not
have been as severe as on Grand Turk because slaveholders
on Grand Caicos would have more incentive to manage
them better in view of the difficulty of acquiring new slaves
due to isolation. But beating slaves was such a regular part
of slave life that it’s hard to believe the Loyalists would
somehow become more amenable with changed circumstances,
and there is little to suggest otherwise.
While violence was the main tool for controlling
enslaved people and extracting as much work as possible,
slaveholders also had to deal with the prospect of a slave
revolt. Indeed, slave rebellions had taken place in the
American South and West Indies throughout the 1700s
and early 1800s, culminating in the successful rebellion
in Haiti in November 1803 that led to the establishment
of the first black republic of former slaves. Loyalists were
keenly well aware of these uprisings, especially the revolt
in Haiti in view of its proximity to TCI—just 100 miles/160
km away. Ships sailing between northern Haiti and TCI
greatly facilitated a flow of information to slaveholders
and slaves alike about the struggle taking place in Haiti
over the course of more than a decade.
In order to mitigate the chances of an uprising and
the risk of revenge, slaveholders often took measures to
create divisions among slaves. One way was to acquire
slaves from different parts of Africa who could not understand
each other or mix them in with slaves who had been
in bondage for many generations. The Loyalist purchase
of slaves at markets in Nassau and Cuba to augment the
slaves they had brought from the American South may
well have had the effect of creating such divisions, though
we don’t know if it was a deliberate strategy.
A second way to split slave groups was to create hierarchies
of slaves with special privileges. We know that
some of the slaves brought by Loyalists had specialized
skills such as carpentry and blacksmithing, thus indicating
the strong possibility of “favored” slaves with more
status that could cause resentment and sow disharmony
to discourage unified action.
In fact, no outright slave revolts took place in TCI.
However, many slaves successfully escaped, mainly by
taking boats from the beaches at night and sailing south
to Haiti, a country that welcomed them as free people.
(See Times of the Islands Fall 2018, “Sailing to Freedom”
by this author.) Between 1822 and 1825, 128 slaves in
the Turks & Caicos escaped, many of them from the Wade
Stubbs plantation on North Caicos. We have no testimony
on why they or any slaves from TCI escaped, though abusive
treatment would seem to be the likely motivation to
get away—bad enough to cause them forsake family and
friends.
Exploitation and sentiment
One of the most debasing aspects of slavery was sexual
exploitation of slave women by slaveholders that also
involved violence or the threat of violence. While some
slaves may have been accommodating to avoid repercussions,
all were in some way coerced or forced.
Stories of such abuse abounded. Mary Prince herself
was almost certainly subjected to sexual exploitation by
the slaveholder she refers to as “Mr. D” on Grand Turk.
Some abolitionists, including those who supported Mary
Prince, may have purposefully glossed over the more heinous
and salacious accounts, as they felt it would distract
from the larger objective of banning slavery. Of course, the
awareness could not be hidden for long since the exploitation
resulted in numerous births of mulatto children.
A British-mandated census in 1834 in TCI classified
180 individuals (13.08% of the slave population)
as “Mulattos,” which was defined as persons with both
African and European bloodlines. Of these, according to
TCI historian Nigel Sadler in his book Slave History of the
Turks & Caicos Islands, 112 persons were under 20 years
of age. It is not known if all of the mulattos were the
offspring of slaveholders and slaves—some could have
been the result of liaisons between white indentured servants
or other white non-slaveholders and either slaves
or ex-slaves. However, the high number of children and
teens of mixed race, the close proximity of slaves to slaveholders
in all the Islands and the long history of forced
or coercive sexual relations by slaveholders strongly indicates
that most, though maybe not all, mulatto offspring
at that time were the result of slaveholder exploitation of
female slaves.
These abhorrent violations could take strange turns.
In the 1760s and 1770s, a Jamaican slaveholder named
Thomas Thistlewood kept a detailed diary of his relations
with slaves. He even documented his own brutality
50 www.timespub.tc
YALE UNIVERSITY PRESS
against slaves, which historian Trevor Burnard called
“sociopathic,” a term which could perhaps be applied to
most slaveholders, including many on Grand Caicos.
In a twisted but not uncommon way, Thistlewood
also developed an affection for a few of the slave women.
One woman in particular named Phibbah, with whom he
had a son, apparently used his emotional connection to
her (perhaps dependency mixed with jealousy) to turn
the tables and gain favors to survive in an otherwise
oppressive society. Phibbah even felt free to quarrel with
Thistlewood and refuse to sleep with him without fear of
repercussion.
This brings us to the intriguing relationship between
Dr. John Lorimer and his slave Rose on his Haulover
Estate in Middle Caicos. Lorimer’s will, written in 1807,
has been recorded as stating that on his death he would
free all of his slaves. In fact, according to Mr. Sadler,
the will was mistakenly recorded because Lorimer freed
only one slave, referred to as his “faithful Negro woman
slave Rose.” Rose first appears as “Rosana, property of
John Lorimer Esq. born April 16th, 1795” and baptized in
March 1800 in Grand Turk when Lorimer was there acting
as the King’s Agent. Apparently, Rose is the only one of
his slaves to be baptized, which raises the question of,
“Why her?”
The details of Lorimer’s will provide some context:
“I wish my body to be carried to the grave by six of my
Negroes (if I have any) dressed in white. For long service
rendered me by the Negro woman Rose, I leave her free
. . . [and] leave Rose any two of my young Negroes born
and raised in the Caicos and Turks Islands, which she may
choose.” Rose is later mentioned in an 1822 slave register
as, “Rose Lorimer, free black woman” who owns two
slaves, “Joe, male 30, Black. Turks Islands and Hannah,
female, 30, Black. Turks Islands.”
So it appears that Rose is free and has two slaves of
her own, a rare gift for a former slave, which suggests a
special relationship with Lorimer of some kind. It is telling
that Rose is already referred to in Lorimer’s 1807 will as
“faithful Negro woman,” and on track to be freed even
though at the time she was only 12 years old (if she was in
fact born in 1795 per the Grand Turk records). While not
definitive, the shards of evidence seem to indicate that
Rose is his daughter, prompting, of course, the second
question about his relationship with Rose’s mother, most
likely a slave under his control.
By singling out Rose in granting her freedom and
slaves, Lorimer ensured she would have far greater independence
and a higher level of comfort in life. One can try
to portray this act of kindness as a slaveholder’s “softer”
Times of the Islands Spring 2020 51
side. However, Lorimer still felt compelled to use and perpetuate
the institution of slavery to express his apparent
affection for Rose (or guilt) and to ensure she had a better
life. Though it is possible Rose’s two slaves were enslaved
in name only, and maybe even relatives of Rose, Lorimer
failed to take that additional step of freeing all slaves. In
that sense, Lorimer was not much different from other
slaveholders in the American South or Caribbean who
gifted slaves to their wives and daughters for the same
reasons.
Indeed, the ownership of slaves by women was not
unusual in the late 1700s and early 1800s. As many as
40% of enslavers may have been women in the United
States, as slaves represented one of the few ways in which
women could be independently well-off, if not wealthy.
Ironically, by possessing slaves, these women gained a
measure of personal freedom otherwise denied to them
in an era when society accorded them few rights, as was
even more so in the case with Rose.
While maltreatment of the enslaved is usually associated
with men, historical records show that women
were just as cruel whether or not they actually owned the
slaves. In fact women, like men, in slaveholding families
were socialized from an early age to treat slaves badly.
The brutality was at its most pernicious when wives of
slaveholders physically lashed out at slave women whom
their husbands had impregnated. The wives often blamed
the slave women rather than their husbands responsible
for the transgression. 12 Years a Slave highlighted this.
Astoundingly, these atrocities were confirmed through
eye-witness accounts compiled as late as the 1930s from
men and women still alive who had been slaves before
American emancipation in 1865.
In less common cases, women took advantage of
male slaves under their control in the American South
and the West Indies, perhaps out of loneliness, perhaps
out of defiance, or perhaps because they could. Local historian
and naturalist B Naqqi Manco recalls a story about
a slave-owning widow on North Caicos who had relations
with a slave named Fred. Little else is known about the
story, and it is hard to confirm, but the incident would not
have been completely out of character for a slave-owning
woman at the time in North Caicos or anywhere else.
Confrontation and loyalty
As slaveholders in the American South and the West
Indies came under increasing scrutiny and exposure by
abolitionist groups, slaveholders attempted to counter
the narrative that slavery was evil. They mounted what
was in effect a public relations campaign by portraying
themselves as benevolent masters who treated “their”
slaves well. They argued that slaves were, in fact, better
off with the food and shelter they provided and cited incidents
of slave “loyalty” as evidence of acceptance of their
condition. Many people bought into the notion that slavery
“wasn’t that bad,” a story line that could be considered
the “fake news” of the time.
Just how did this notion of slave loyalty play out with
the Loyalists of Grand Caicos? As it happens, a pirate
attack off West Caicos brought enslaved and enslavers
together in a fight for survival that tested assumptions
about slavery for at least one prominent Loyalist planter,
Colonel Thomas Brown. Originally from Yorkshire,
England, Thomas made his way to the American colonies
where he started plantations in the American South and
acquired slaves just as the Revolutionary War broke out.
After professing loyalty to King George III and refusing
to sign a letter swearing allegiance to the Revolution at
a “Sons of Liberty” meeting, the Patriots brutally attacked
and tarred and feathered him.
Angry and spoiling for revenge, Brown joined the
Loyalist unit “The King’s Rangers” and fought against the
Patriots, rising to the rank of colonel. Legend has it that
his bitterness was so great that he hanged 13 Patriots just
so he could gloat over their suffering.
When the Patriots wrested control of the American
colonies from Great Britain, he along with the other
Loyalists made their way to North Caicos to start over. In
the course of developing a plantation, he, like Lorimer,
earned a reputation for treating slaves well. If a slave
from one plantation wanted to marry a slave from another
plantation, he would buy the slave in order to keep the
family together. Supposedly, he had also freed favorites
among the enslaved even before coming to North Caicos.
Therefore, if any slaveholder could have empathy and
understanding and see the enslaved as human, not chattel,
it would seem to be Brown.
When a ship from Rhode Island laden with badly
needed supplies and provisions for Loyalist planters
wrecked on the reef off West Caicos, Brown, other planters
and several slaves set off for the stricken ship. Sailing
in five sloops, they found the ship intact and successfully
salvaged the valuable cargo. As they were about to return,
French pirates/privateers attacked them. A pitched battle
ensued as the French attempted to drive the slaves and
Loyalists against the reef and take their sloops and cargo.
Brown sailed the largest boat that was mounted with
two small cannons. Also on board was a crew of slaves
52 www.timespub.tc
armed with muskets. Together, they managed to drive
off the French three different times. After three hours of
fighting, a cannon from a more heavily armed French ship
sank Brown’s sloop, forcing him and the crew to swim to
shore on West Caicos where they awaited rescue. Two
of the slaves had been wounded in the fight, though not
mortally. The French captured the remaining boats with
the cargo and sailed away.
The Bahama Gazette carried a story of the fight in the
August 21, 1798 edition, including Brown’s praise for his
men. In a letter to his father in England, Brown wrote, “I
was so proud of my men, did not mind the loss of goods.”
This was not the first action Brown took that involved
arming slaves to protect Loyalist planter interests. Brown,
using his own money and probably with assistance from
other planters, had already built two forts to protect Saint
George Harbour (now known as Fort George Cay between
Pine Cay and Dellis Cay).
According to Edward J. Cashin in The King’s Ranger,
“He (Brown) armed and drilled his black labor force” to
man the fort. Clearly, Brown developed a great deal of
confidence in people he had enslaved to actually arm
them at a time when the Haitian slave rebellion was in
full swing, and slaveholders were fearful the revolt might
spread. Indeed, Brown’s initiatives were exceptional in a
time when most slaveholders believed that slaves could
not be trusted, much less with weapons.
While Brown praised his men, implying loyalty to him
in the fight against the French pirates, the slaves could
just as well have been fighting for their own survival, not
fealty to their slaveholder. And while the arming of slaves
for island defense against raiders may well have been
forward leaning and progressive for the era, could that
loyalty have lasted long on such an isolated post if the
slave soldiers remained slaves? I can think of no instance
where slaves fought willingly for slave masters without
at least the promise of freedom, which Brown apparently
never gave.
When Brown departed North Caicos in 1802 and
resettled in St. Vincent a few years later to start another
plantation, he reportedly took with him 643 slaves and
15 white overseers who had been working his plantations
there. In fact, Brown had so many slaves that it
took almost two years to transfer all of them. It should
be noted that there is no record of slaves escaping from
Brown’s plantation. That might suggest that they didn’t
want to because they were content. But, such a perspective
would require an assumption that Brown (and all of
his 15 overseers) treated his slaves so vastly differently
from other plantations that all of them preferred bondage
to freedom, or at least questioned taking the risk of sailing
to freedom.
Notwithstanding Brown’s experience and his admiration
for the enslaved under his control, he apparently felt
no compunction or inclination to let them go. Perhaps in
arrogance he believed that bondage was better (except
for one or two favored ones). Or perhaps he calculated
that without hundreds of slaves working for him, he could
not maintain his lifestyle and status, and thus could not
do without them. In any case, Brown, like other ostensibly
enlightened enslavers who were well aware of slavery’s
bitter controversy, rationalized the status quo, unable to
rise to the occasion.
Legacy and today
In the end, the Loyalist plantations lasted less than
thirty years before hurricanes, soil depletion and disease
destroyed much of the sea cotton crop. While some
Loyalists turned to planting sisal then used for making
rope, the brief heyday of the plantation life on Grand
Caicos declined sharply. Most of the Loyalists lost their
second fortune here and left for England, or in some
cases went back to the American South where resentment
against Loyalists had dissipated.
The Loyalists sold off some of the enslaved to recoup
losses before departing, but left behind others. As the
rigid, oppressive life of slavery began to unravel, the now
former enslaved took control. Already hardy survivors,
they were quite prepared to adapt, fend for themselves
and make the land and sea serve them. They formed
communities and depended on each other, a culture and
spirit of reliance that continues to this day. This is quite a
tribute for people whose ancestors came to these islands
under the most excruciating circumstances and prevailed.
a
Ben Stubenberg (ben@caicunaniki.com) is a contributing
writer to Times of the Islands with a passion for TCI history.
He is also co-founder of the TCI adventure company
Caicu Naniki and the annual Turks & Caicos “Race for the
Conch” Eco-SeaSwim.
Special thanks to Nigel Sadler, Historian and founder of
Sands of Times Consultancy, Dr. Charlene Kozy, Historian,
and B Naqqi Manco, Naturalist and Historian, for their
valuable contributions. The personal perspectives are
entirely the author’s.
Times of the Islands Spring 2020 53
feature
Opposite page and above: The SNAP Centre is the only government-funded special needs facility in Providenciales. It provides intellectual
and life skills training for children and young adults ages 4 to 24 years old who have challenges such as autism, learning disabilities and
developmental delays. A second facility is expected to open on Grand Turk this year.
Inclusion Matters
Advances in the education of children with special needs in the TCI.
Many positive things are happening for children with special needs in the Turks & Caicos Islands as the
result of a partnership between the TCI Government, a nonprofit organization of American and Canadian
volunteers and a private business foundation in Providenciales. Children with challenges such as autism,
learning disabilities and developmental delays “need special care and attention at a very young age” in
order to reach their full potential, said the Honourable Edwin Astwood, Minister of Health, Agriculture,
Sport and Human Services.
By Norah Machia ~ Photos by Anthony Machia
Times of the Islands Spring 2020 55
The TCI Government currently funds the Special
Needs Association of Providenciales (SNAP) Centre, a special
education facility with 13 students operated under
the Ministry of Health. The centre provides both intellectual
and life skills training for children and young adults
ages 4 to 24 years old, and typically has a waiting list
for new students. “We have just the one centre now, but
there are many other children in need of assistance,” said
Minister Astwood. More families are coming forward for
help as the government has been working on educating
people about tolerance, acceptance and inclusion of people
with disabilities.
This year, the TCI Government is planning to open a
second special education facility on Grand Turk, according
to Minister Astwood. Officials have been looking at
several options to determine if it would be more cost
effective to renovate existing space or build a new structure.
A total of six children would be enrolled in the new
centre during its first phase, with the possibility of future
expansion.
Opening the second centre in Grand Turk will help
families on both the western and eastern portions of
the Turks & Caicos Islands. In the past, some families
with special needs children have faced tough decisions
about changing jobs and moving closer to the centre in
Providenciales.
There are plans to expand classroom space and hire
additional special needs teachers for the SNAP Centre
as well, with a combination of government and private
funding. The TCI Government has been working diligently
to recruit additional special needs teachers. Competitive
salaries and benefits are being offered, but the recruitment
process has still been a challenge, Minister Astwood
stated.
Depending on their condition, children with special
needs require different types of services, and things that
come easily to other children are often greater challenges
to them. But teachers at the SNAP Centre marvel at the
tenacity of their students, and recognize they possess a
remarkable resilience and strong determination to learn.
The special education teachers at the SNAP Centre
have created a positive learning environment, offering
both small group and individualized attention. They present
educational material in a variety of ways to meet the
learning styles of each student, while working with all
the children and young adults to reach their highest level
possible of independence.
“The attitudes regarding people with disabilities have
been changing,” Minister Astwood noted. “In the past,
you may have never known about a child with a special
need unless it was someone in your own family. Now
there is more public awareness, and more acceptance.”
The Turks & Caicos Islands Government has been
working with the 1 World Foundation for several years to
help conduct assessments and develop treatment plans
for special needs children. The nonprofit organization
sends volunteer health care professionals from the United
States and Canada to meet with children and their parents
at the SNAP Centre, and at clinics and hospitals throughout
the Islands.
Since 1994, the 1 World Foundation has coordinated
occupational therapy, speech pathology, audiology and
clinical psychology assessments for children in TCI, said
Howard Ganter, foundation president, New York State.
These volunteers have worked with both the Ministry
of Health and the Ministry of Education in sharing their
experience and offering additional training.
The 1 World Foundation volunteers worked with the
Ministry of Health’s Special Needs Unit to develop a registry
of children needing services, which totals nearly
200 children to date. The nonprofit organization has
also shipped adaptive equipment and program supplies
to the Islands and their work has been supported by
SNAP Centre student Steve gives a thumbs-up after completing a writing
assignment in his small group classroom. His twin brother Steven
is the fellow peeking over the composition book on the previous page.
56 www.timespub.tc
Above: Hon. Edwin Astwood, TCI Minister of Health, meets with
Joseph Rich of the 1 World Foundation. The nonprofit organization
sends volunteer health professionals from North America to meet
with special needs children and their parents in TCI.
Bottom right: Neuropsychologist Dr. Jeanne Ryan has traveled to TCI
from New York State for six years to provide assessments and create
individualized treatment plans for many special needs children.
Rotary Clubs in New York State, Ontario, Canada, and
Providenciales.
For six years, Dr. Jeanne Ryan, a neuropsychologist,
and her husband, G. Terrence Ryan, a licensed mental
health counselor from New York State, have traveled to
TCI to provide assessments and create individualized
treatment plans for many special needs children, including
those with autism.
Autism is often referred to as a “spectrum disorder”
because it covers a broad range of conditions and
is typically characterized by challenges with social skills,
repetitive behaviors, speech and nonverbal communication,
according to the Autism Speaks organization. Each
child with autism has a distinct set of strengths and challenges
in the way they think, learn and solve problems,
and their conditions range from severely-challenged to
highly-skilled.
The Ryans said they’ve seen more acceptance among
families of children with special needs in TCI, although
some stigma still exists. “The acceptance by parents is
Times of the Islands Spring 2020 57
From top: Special Needs Teacher Paulette Simmons encourages young SNAP Centre student
Bensky.
It’s a “high five” for a job well done by SNAP Centre student Sabrina from Special Needs
Teacher Keishe-ann Shaw.
becoming much better, and we are
getting more referrals,” Dr. Ryan said.
“Although there are still parents who
prefer to keep their children at home,
because they have concerns about
what others might think of them,”
she added. “But we certainly have
seen improvement firsthand. I recall
one parent who just a few years ago
did not want to take her special needs
child out in public, but that slowly
started to change, and she began by
taking her child on trips to the grocery
store.”
In recent years, the Ministry of
Health, along with volunteers from
the 1 World Foundation, has sought
input from parents with special
needs children through a series of
public meetings for residents of
Providenciales, Grand Turk, Middle,
South and North Caicos.
In 2018, the Ministry of Education
adopted a Special Education Policy
that has resulted in additional services
for special needs children,
along with an enhanced referral and
intervention system, and professional
development opportunities for
staff and administrators. “The Turks
& Caicos Islands Government has
appreciated the long-term commitment
of the 1 World Foundation in
helping us to ‘fill the gaps’ in creating
services for people with disabilities,”
said Minister Astwood. “They know
what the system should look like and
have helped guide us in developing
our own system. We’re looking forward
to future collaborations on all
projects assisting families with special
needs children.”
One project being proposed by
the nonprofit organization is a new
public awareness campaign, said
Joseph Rich, a founder of the 1 World
Foundation from New York State.
Mr. Rich recently met with Minister
Astwood in TCI to propose a media
58 www.timespub.tc
campaign that would continue spreading the message
of acceptance and inclusion of people with disabilities
throughout the Islands. “People with disabilities have
many of the same dreams as others, including being part
of their communities, receiving special services, being
respected and even having a job,” said Mr. Rich. The proposed
campaign would emphasize the message that “all
people are important, all people are valued, all people
contribute to the community and this includes people
with disabilities,” he added.
The staff at the SNAP Centre has been working to
spread that message by taking their students on field
trips throughout the Islands. Participation in the community
has helped the special needs children build
self-confidence and independence, and they have often
surprised people with their accomplishments, said Betty-
Ann Been, Director of the Special Needs Unit, Ministry
of Health. “Our motto is inclusion matters. We focus on
independence, early intervention, development of life
skills and potential employment opportunities.”
The staff encourage parents to accompany them on
field trips, because it gives them the opportunity to see
how well their children can handle themselves in public,
Ms. Been said. Bringing children to different locations
throughout the Islands also helps people to start thinking
differently about those with disabilities and what they can
accomplish with their lives.
The centre has been successful in having some children
transition into the regular school system a couple
of days a week with additional teacher support. Officials
with the Ministry of Health and the Ministry of Education
have a strong working relationship and share information
that is critical to identify, diagnose and help children with
special needs, said Ms. Been.
Some young adults who have completed their education
and life skills training at the SNAP Centre program
have found employment, including in the child care and
landscaping fields. That effort was helped by the centre’s
on-site gardening program, where children have been
learning how to grow and market produce.
The success of that program can be attributed in large
part to the Seven Stars Community Foundation, which
“adopted” the SNAP Centre as its main cause, providing
continual support for the teachers and students “that has
been critical to our operation,” said Ms. Been.
The Community Foundation was started six years ago
and considers the SNAP Centre as its main area of focus
on Providenciales, said Paul Jobling, Seven Stars Resort,
Grace Bay. “The foundation has raised over $150,000 to
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Times of the Islands Spring 2020 59
help the centre.”
Their support has included transportation for the
children and the provision of 10 personal computers and
additional iPads to assist children with classroom learning.
The Seven Stars Community Foundation also donated
a large screen television connected to the internet to
enable remote specialized teaching from North America.
Additional support has included monthly landscaping
services by Seven Stars personnel, the coordination of
regular termite control provided at no cost by Parkway
Solutions, and the updating of the air conditioning systems
by the resort’s maintenance department. The
Community Foundation has also provided the centre with
hurricane-proof doors and completed an interior remodeling
project with updated bathrooms and repainting of
the entire building.
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“Every summer before the re-opening of the school,
our team of engineers ensure that any renovations
needed are completed before the students return,” Mr.
Jobling said. “The Seven Stars Team continues to host
an annual Christmas party for the students, which allows
members of the committee to interact with them through
activities such as decorating cookie and cupcakes.”
When the SNAP Centre suffered considerable damage
after Hurricanes Irma and Maria struck the Islands in
2017, the employees of Seven Stars completely restored
the building within 30 days so the students could return
to the centre, Mr. Jobling said. “This was a major achievement
given that many of the staff had significant damage
to their own properties and the fact that power was not
fully restored to Providenciales for many months following
the hurricanes,” he noted. “At Seven Stars, we are very
proud of our association with the SNAP Centre and intend
to remain involved for many years to come.” a
For parents with special needs children, there are two
phone numbers to call for more information. The number
for the Ministry of Health’s Special Needs Unit is (649)
338-2171 and the SNAP Centre is (649) 941-3187.
p.o.box 21, providenciales, turks & caicos is.
tel.: 9464440 cell: 2314569 email: redmond@tciway.tc
60 www.timespub.tc
The SNAP Centre garden is sponsored by the Seven Stars Resort Foundation.
Here, students are learning to grow and market produce.
62 www.timespub.tc
astrolabe
newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
front street, p.o. box 188, grand turk, turks & caicos islands, bwi
tel 649 946 2160 • fax 649 946 2160 • email info@tcmuseum.org • web www.tcmuseum.org
Archaeologists and volunteers excavate in a grid system at the South Bank site on Providenciales.
Giving a Voice to the Past
As an archaeologist, the one question I am continuously asked is, “How do we learn about the people
who lived in the past, especially for people who didn’t have any form of writing?” It is important for
archaeologists to properly record everything they do. When archaeologists begin a project, they don’t just
start digging into the ground. They create a grid system to help record where objects are found. Great
care is taken to record the location and surrounds of each artifact found, while carefully preserving and
recording all finds for future study. It is through this care and study of artifacts found in their context
that allow archaeologists to unravel the past.
In this edition of the Astrolabe, we present two articles that help give a voice to the past. First, we take
a look at the Lucayan Petroglyphs (rock art) on East Caicos. This is followed by an article from resident
Turks & Caicos explorer John Galleymore, who takes us on a journey through East Caicos and his process
for uncovering the past. a
Dr. Michael P. Pateman, Ph.D., Director, Turks & Caicos National Museum
Times of the Islands Spring 2020 63
astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
MAT MATLOCK
MAT MATLOCK
Clockwise from top left: Petroglyph from Jacksonville Cave. Row of faces. Leif Erickson drawing one of the Petroglyphs. Petroglyphs in cave
at Jacksonville from De Booy 1912.
Cave Art
The Lucayan petroglyphs of East Caicos.
By Dr. Michael P. Pateman
Archaeological studies of the Lucayan Islands (which includes The Bahamas and Turks & Caicos Islands)
have mainly focused on settlement surveys and large scale village excavations. However, early archaeologists
(late 19th and early 20th century) focused most of their efforts on the cave systems of these islands.
This interest in the caves started to fade towards the end of the 20th century.
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astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
However, caves played an important role in Taíno
lifestyle and spiritual beliefs, and as such it is assumed
played an important role in that of the Lucayans.
Therefore, it should be no surprise that caves represent
a significant aspect of the archaeological record of the
Lucayan Islands. These caves exist in two forms, wet
(including blue holes and caves with a direct connection
to the water table) and dry. The caves contain a variety
of artifacts which have not been preserved at open sites
such as human burials, petroglyphs and pictographs,
faunal and botanical remains, and a variety of wooden
artifacts.
Lucayan rock art is found throughout the Lucayan
Islands, specifically Crooked Island, Eleuthera, Inagua,
Long Island, New Providence, Mayaguana, Rum Cay and
San Salvador (in The Bahamas) and East Caicos (in the
Turks & Caicos).
In 1912, Theodore De Booy visited a cave at
Jacksonville and described six petroglyphs, two carved
heads and a possible stone altar. However, after this visit,
this site was lost to science and eventually, the location
was lost to all.
In 2006, on an expedition by a team of scientists
working in collaboration with the TCI National Trust,
the cave was found again but they did not observe the
petroglyphs. It wasn’t until 2008 that explorer Kim
Mortimer saw them. (Details of this were published in
the Spring 2012 edition of the Astrolabe in an article by
Mark Parrish.) More recent research published by Lace
and others in the 2018 Journal of Caribbean Archaeology
describe 13 petroglyphs and included a map of their locations.
As a child growing up I loved to explore, especially the
caves throughout the islands. After arriving in the Turks
& Caicos, the caves at Jacksonville were high on my list of
places to visit and document. However, as East Caicos is
uninhabited today except for donkeys and other wildlife, I
had to find a way to get there and someone who knew the
location of the cave. Finally, in October 2019, a team led
by the Museum and consisting of local TCI explorers John
Galleymore, Agile and Daniel LeVin, Leif Erickson, Mat
Matlock (photographer) and Dr. Shaun Sullivan (archaeologist)
visited East Caicos with the primary mission of
exploring the petroglyph cave at Jacksonville.
Armed with the map created by Lace and others we
set off to find and document the petroglyphs. Privately,
Survey of rock art distribution found in Jacksonville Cave from Lace
et al. 2018.
we were also hoping to find more as the petroglyphs can
sometimes only be seen when light conditions change.
At first, they were very difficult to see, but as our eyes
adjusted to the cave light the faint carvings emerged from
the walls. We started to tick off all of the previous ones
listed by De Booy and Lace. Soon, we had counted over
20 carvings, including a row of 5 faces, a pipe, individuals
with rays and numerous anthropomorphic figures.
All petroglyphs were drawn and photographed. Both
methods were used because due to the nature of the light
in caves, sometimes photographs do not reveal them.
The main question I am asked is “What do the petroglyphs
mean?” This is difficult to answer, as we do not
always know. Some are easy to interpret, as they include
objects of everyday life (canoe paddle or pipe). Others are
more difficult to interpret, including anthropomorphic
figures (animals with human features). Were they created
over a short term by a single individual or over a long term
by multiple individuals? John Winter in 2009 wrote a summary
of petroglyphs from throughout The Bahamas and
noted they are of the Timehri type, an anthropomorphic
design first classified by Williams (1985) and named after
figures found on the Corartijn River in Suriname, part of
Times of the Islands Spring 2020 65
astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
the Guianas region in northeast South America. Williams
believes these figures functioned to maintain subsistence
horticulture and have their origin in Amazonia.
The drawing of human-like faces has been suggested
elsewhere in the Caribbean as a part of ancestor worship,
a central part of Taíno religion. Additionally, a number of
the petroglyphs are figures with rays. These may be representations
of Lucayan deities of sun or rain or masked
fertility figures. One of the petroglyphs depicts an anthropomorphic
individual squatting. This can be interpreted
as Atabey the Taíno supreme goddess of fresh water and
fertility.
Join the Museum
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Turks & Caicos National
Museum and receive a
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includes Astrolabe), free admission to the Museum
and other benefits.
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We have several options for joining:
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www.tcmuseum.org/membership-support/.
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Road, Santa Fe, NM 87508
*For U.S. residents, support of the Museum may be tax-deductible
if you join via Friends of the Turks & Caicos National
Museum, our affiliated institution and registered 501 (c) (3).
At left: Potential drawing of Atabey (giving birth?) from East Caicos
compared (at right) with drawing of Atabey petroglyph from Puerto
Rico.
Whether the rock art of East Caicos was part of fertility
rituals, ancestor worship, marking of territories or the
telling of events is uncertain. However, it is clear that cultural
traditions of the larger islands of Cuba, Hispaniola
and Puerto Rico also took place in the Lucayan Islands.
Yet more research is needed. Very little archaeological
research has been conducted on East Caicos. Is there a
large-scale habitation nearby? Can a link be determined
between this cave and any other site?
In De Booy’s 1912 article, he notes that locals
describe other caves on East Caicos with “Indian” carvings.
A side mission of our trip was to try and find these
sites but we didn’t have the time. It gives us another reason
to go back! a
A short documentary about the project is being created
and will be launched during 2020.
COURTESY WIKICOMMONS
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astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
The Layers of History
East Caicos is a treasure trove of relics.
Story & Photos By John Galleymore
When I was very young, I was shown at school a very basic picture depicting “How History Works.” It
showed layers of the Earth with the oldest relics the deepest and those more recent near the surface.
I soon came to discover this is not quite the case! As I progressed through my career in exploration,
it became apparent that you have to keep an open mind, and —even more— open eyes, in order to
discover and hopefully unravel the secrets of the past. Very often, the artifacts from one time in history
will be laying in plain sight alongside those of another.
During the recent TCI National Museum visit to East
Caicos, the primary objective was to rediscover the lost
petroglyphs left by the Lucayan Indians some 500 years
ago. However, East Caicos is a treasure trove of history,
and much of it is more recent than the Lucayans. With
this in mind, while the team was exploring caves and
Lucayan homesites, I ventured into the bush on the east
coast of the island to look around the long-abandoned
ruins of the township known as Jacksonville.
In the late 1880s, sisal growing was attempted and
became the largest export East Caicos ever saw. Sisal (in
the past also called pita) is an agave plant that is grown
for its very strong fibers that are used to produce rope
and twine. At the height of production, much of the
suitable ground was planted but not for long. Due to
poor global demand, the industry was abandoned on
East Caicos by the early 1900s.
In the late 1800s, cattle ranching was also carried
On East Caicos, remnants of the original Jacksonville settlers—pottery and glass bottles—litter the ground. They have lain there since
the late 1800s.
Times of the Islands Spring 2020 67
astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
out by J. N. Reynolds and for years was moderately
successful. The beef was considered to be quite good
and was especially appreciated in Grand Turk considering
that the alternative usually consisted of canned
and salted meats. After the abandonment of the island,
remnants of these herds existed for decades, but were
eventually hunted to extinction. Today, only donkeys
can still be found in the wild there.
Located on the island’s west end, Jacksonville was
the social center of East Caicos. Sisal processing stations,
houses, a company store and barracks capable
of holding up to 400 people were all part of the “town.”
Only a few ruins remain of this small settlement in the
thick,unrelenting bush that is evermore reclaiming them
back to nature. Yet, it’s interesting to note that these
ruins lay alongside layers of history from the Lucayans,
to slave traders, explorers and modern-day developers.
As I climb the small incline from the beach (homesteads
were always constructed on ridges due to the
breeze), I first note that some “new” construction has
taken place in the last 10 years — maybe someone’s
idea of rekindling this old ghost town? It’s obvious the
work was abandoned before completion.
I soon reach the summit and the ruins of the
houses appear through the
thick undergrowth. Most of the
walls still stand, a testament to
the craftsmen that toiled here,
with some still showing plastered
walls which were made
from burning conch shells.
It’s interesting to see that
although the roofs have long
gone, some original timbers
still line the doorways. More
interesting still is the original
“graffiti” etched into the walls
which show dates (1892) and
the outlines of what appears
to be a schooner, perhaps produced
by idle hands or minds
dreaming of home?
To further confirm that history
is often linear, I stumble
This is the “new” construction that has taken place in the last 10
years at Jacksonville, although it’s obvious the work was abandoned
before completion.
across some reddish clay substance on the surface. This
turns out to be Lucayan pottery made of red clay from
dust blown from the African continent. It’s a wonder to
think what else these early settlers of Jacksonville stumbled
across when they set up home here in the 1800s.
One thing is for sure, whatever era we investigate, other
parts of history are closely intertwined. a
This is the “graffiti” carved into the walls of some of the abandoned Jacksonville homes which
show dates (1892) and the outlines of what appears to be a schooner.
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astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
Museum Matters
¿Donde esta Simon, Sandy?
Where is Simon, Sandy? The
Story of a Little Donkey That
Wouldn’t Quit is a classic
folk tale set in Grand Turk.
The first edition, written by
Donna Marie Seim and illustrated
by Susan Spellman,
was first published in 2008.
It is now in its fourth printing
in English. The fifth printing
will be ¿Donde esta Simon, Sandy?, a Spanish edition
with all-Spanish text.
Sales from the book have supported the TCNM’s
Children’s Club since 2008. Summer camp for the
National Museum, giving children a fun and cultural
experience each summer, has been funded for eleven
years by local donors and Where is Simon, Sandy? as the
primary sponsor.
Some years ago the text was translated into Spanish
as a donation to the Museum by Maria Fernandez
Miquel, an engineer who designed and directed construction
and operation of Grand Turk’s water supply
system and Fernando Perez Monteagudo, who was in
charge of the coastal environmental resources in the
DECR. They are currently residents of Cuba but enjoyed
living in Grand Turk for eight years. They had the wish
to see Where is Simon, Sandy? printed in Spanish so
Spanish-speaking children could read and enjoy this
endearing story about loyalty, friendship and community.
The Spanish text was edited by Nilda Monteagudo
Nunex, Doctor of Philosophy and Literature, specializing
in teaching Spanish to foreign students.
We are now midway in the process of fundraising
for the money necessary to make this a reality. If you
would like to donate to this project please contact the
TC National Museum. All sales from the Spanish edition
will be donated to the Museum’s Children’s Program. a
“Islanders” to tell their story. Features have focused on
family ancestry, boat building, childhood games, music,
bush medicine, politics, crafts (such as basket weaving)
and life “back in the day.” Most recently, the Museum
spent a few days in North and Middle Caicos to hear the
stories of the residents.
We are now in the process of editing these interviews
for publication on our various social media channels
and will soon launch the trailer for the story of the
People of the Islands
In the Summer 2019 edition of the Astrolabe, we
launched the Museum’s oral history program, “People
of the Islands.” The goal of this project was to allow
Times of the Islands Spring 2020 69
astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
Museum Matters
Caicos Sloop. Additionally, we are working on a “People
of the Islands” exhibition to be launched in Grand Turk
in the summer of 2020.
If you have a recommendation for an interviewee,
please email the museum at info@tcmuseum.org. a
Evening with the Expert — Bill Keegan
Both museum locations (Grand Turk and Providenciales)
occasionally offer “Evening with the Expert” events. Our
most recent guest speaker was Dr. William Keegan
(Caribbean archaeologist) from the Florida Museum of
Natural History. The topic of his talk was “The Case for
the Caribs in the Lucayan Islands” and is available on
our Facebook page and Youtube channel.
Dr. Keegan and Dr. Lindsay Bloch (ceramic specialist),
also from the Florida Museum of Natural History
were in town as part of a joint research project with the
Museum. Details of this project will be published in a
future edition of the Astrolabe. a
These three sets of images of Islanders represent some of the
folks whose story will be part of the Museum’s new “People of the
Islands” exhibition.
a game of Pin-the-Tail-on-the Donkey after creating their
own tails. a
Author Donna Marie Seim participated in the January 2020 meeting
of the Museum’s Children’s Club on Grand Turk.
Caribbean archaeologist Dr. William Keegan was a guest speaker at
the Museum’s “Evening with the Expert” in February 2020.
Children’s Club (Grand Turk)
At our January 2020 Children’s Club, participants were
able to take part in reading of Where is Simon, Sandy?
with author Donna Marie Seim, along with her new
book, Bella and Jingles. Later, everyone participated in
Upcoming events
Casino Event (Grand Turk) — April 24, 2020
(New date!)
Back in the Day (Provo) — May 16, 2020
Gala 2020 (Provo) — June 6, 2020
Cooking Competition and Raffle (Grand Turk) —
July 25, 2020 a
70 www.timespub.tc
around the islands
Lovey Forbes and Elicia Richardson, a visitor to North Caicos from Boston, play a round at the Combina Golf Course.
Not Your Average Golf Course
Combina golf is rich in North Caicos charm.
Forget all your usual notions about golf courses or miniature golf. Fairways of grass? Forget it. Manicured
putting greens? Forget it. Windmills or tiny castles or colourful concrete animals? Nope. The Combina
Golf Course at Horse Stable Beach on North Caicos is something entirely different with its own North
Caicos style.
By Jody Rathgeb ~ Photos by Tom Rathgeb
That’s because it was created by Lovey Forbes, a true son of North Caicos. In 2013 the musician and
community booster dreamed up a game similar to miniature golf (some call it putt-putt), but with a much
more compact form and using the island’s natural sandy soil instead of artificial greens. He drew up a
plan in the shape of a spoked wheel, with one hole in the middle and twelve more evenly spaced around
the circumference of the circle. Players would start in the middle and, following his numbered holes,
travel in six wedges for a total of 18 holes. Lovey then created what he called Circle Putt Golf (CPG) in
his beachfront yard in Whitby, raking the sand, lining holes with PVC pipe and making a “rough” from
casuarina needles. Conch shells painted with the hole numbers help players through the course.
Times of the Islands Spring 2020 71
An overall shot of the Combina Golf Course reveals how close it is to the beach.
His front yard game (at one time he had three circles)
was an underground hit. People who knew Lovey or tourists
who stumbled upon the place could use the putters
and balls he provided and enjoy the game. He would even
provide a score sheet and offer to play along. The game
is fun and different and offers a challenge for even experienced
golfers, who quickly learn that playing on sand in
a natural terrain can be tricky.
Garden trail
Meanwhile, Lovey was bringing another idea to fruition at
Horse Stable Beach in 2016, where he created a walking
trail through the trees which he named Casuarina Garden
Trails. The area was at first an informal adjunct to the
government facilities there, then received an official
stamp of approval that included assistance in building a
music stage at the site in 2018.
That’s when a lightning bolt of an idea struck again.
Lovey decided not only to add his Circle Putt Golf to
the area, but also to turn the trails into another 18-hole
course. He set to work with his rake and added 18 holes
meandering through the trees, with lengths ranging from
8 to 75 feet. Players start from the center hole of the
CPG wheel and end there, allowing them to finish off
with a round of CPG for a total of 36 holes. Lovey named
this the Combina Golf Course. (He also calls his music,
which blends rock, country, calypso and reggae, combina
music.)
Like CPG, the longer course is on natural terrain with
a casuarina “rough,” with holes marked by conch shells.
There are also some gentle obstacles (a thin tree was left
in the middle of one of the holes), island-style decorations,
and inspirational signs along the way, reminding
players to Give God Thanks, Pursue Life, Honor Your
Mother, etc.
The person to contact
Lovey says that the Combina Golf Course was “designed
by the spirit,” but he’s the one who does all its maintenance
and is the contact person for those who want to
play the game. He can be found on Facebook as Lorett
Forbes, on Instagram as Lorett Lovey, or with a phone
call to (649) 242-8802. He will meet players at the site
with clubs and balls and explain the game. Lovey does
not charge people to play the course, but happily accepts
donations for its upkeep. Currently, he brings a paper
sign explaining Combina Golf when he is at the site, but
says he would like to get a more permanent sign so that
people will know what this odd little course actually is.
Yes, it’s odd, but that’s much of its island charm.
Lovey’s creation is “North Caicos” through and through.
Certainly not your average golf course. a
72 www.timespub.tc
about the Islands
Map provided courtesy Wavey Line Publishing. Their navigation charts and decorative and historic maps of the Turks & Caicos Islands, The
Bahamas, and Hispaniola are available in shops throughout the Islands. Visit www.amnautical.com.
Where we are
The Turks & Caicos Islands lie some 575 miles southeast
of Miami — approximately 1 1/2 hours flying time —
with The Bahamas about 30 miles to the northwest and
the Dominican Republic some 100 miles to the southeast.
The country consists of two island groups separated
by the 22-mile wide Columbus Passage. To the west are
the Caicos Islands: West Caicos, Providenciales, North
Caicos, Middle Caicos, East Caicos, and South Caicos. To
the east are the Turks Islands: Grand Turk and Salt Cay.
The Turks & Caicos total 166 square miles of land
area on eight islands and 40 small cays. The country’s
population is approximately 36,500.
Getting here
There are international airports on Grand Turk,
Providenciales, and South Caicos, with domestic airports
on all of the islands except East Caicos.
At this time, all of the major international carriers
arrive and depart from Providenciales International
Airport. American Airlines flies from Miami, Charlotte,
Chicago, Dallas, New York/JFK and Philadelphia. JetBlue
Airways offers service from Fort Lauderdale, Boston
and New York/JFK. Southwest Airlines travels to Fort
Lauderdale. Delta Airlines flies from Atlanta, Boston and
New York/JFK. United Airlines travels from Chicago and
Newark. WestJet travels from Toronto and Montreal. Air
Canada offers flights from Toronto and Montreal. British
Airways travels from London/Gatwick via Antigua.
Times of the Islands Spring 2020 73
Bahamasair and InterCaribbean Airways fly to Nassau,
Bahamas. Flights to: Antigua; Dominica; Cap Haitien
and Port Au Prince, Haiti; Kingston and Montego Bay,
Jamaica; Miami, Florida; Puerto Plata and Santo Domingo,
Dominican Republic; San Juan, Puerto Rico; St. Lucia; St.
Maarten; Santiago, Cuba; and Tortola are available on
InterCaribbean Airways, while Caicos Express travels to
Cap Haitien daily. (Schedules are current as of February
2020 and subject to change.)
Inter-island service is provided by InterCaribbean
Airways, Caicos Express Airways and Global Airways. Sea
and air freight services operate from Florida.
Language
English.
Time zone
Eastern Standard Time (EST)/Daylight Savings Time
observed.
Currency
The United States dollar. The Treasury also issues a Turks
& Caicos crown and quarter. Travellers cheques in U.S.
dollars are widely accepted and other currency can be
changed at local banks. American Express, VISA, and
MasterCard are welcomed at many locations.
Climate
The average year-round temperature is 83ºF (28ºC). The
hottest months are September and October, when the
temperature can reach 90 to 95ºF (33 to 35ºC). However,
the consistent easterly trade winds temper the heat and
keep life comfortable.
Casual resort and leisure wear is accepted attire for
daytime; light sweaters or jackets may be necessary on
some breezy evenings. It’s wise to wear protective clothing
and a sunhat and use waterproof sunscreen when out
in the tropical sun.
Entry requirements
Passport. A valid onward or return ticket is also required.
Customs formalities
Visitors may bring in duty free for their own use one carton
of cigarettes or cigars, one bottle of liquor or wine,
and some perfume. The importation of all firearms including
those charged with compressed air without prior
approval in writing from the Commissioner of Police is
strictly forbidden. Spear guns, Hawaiian slings, controlled
drugs, and pornography are also illegal.
Returning residents may bring in $400 worth of
merchandise per person duty free. A duty of 10% to
60% is charged on most imported goods along with a
7% customs processing fee and forms a major source of
government revenue.
Transportation
A valid driver’s license from home is suitable when renting
vehicles. A government tax of 12% is levied on all
rental contracts. (Insurance is extra.) Driving is on the
left-hand side of the road, with traffic flow controlled by
round-abouts at major junctions. Please don’t drink and
drive! Taxis and community cabs are abundant throughout
the Islands and many resorts offer shuttle service
between popular visitor areas. Scooter, motorcycle, and
bicycle rentals are also available.
74 www.timespub.tc
Telecommunications
FLOW Ltd. provides land lines and superfast broadband
Internet service. Mobile service is on a LTE 4G network,
including pre- and post-paid cellular phones. Most resorts
and some stores and restaurants offer wireless Internet
connection. Digicel operates mobile networks, with
a full suite of LTE 4G service. FLOW is the local carrier
for CDMA roaming on US networks such as Verizon and
Sprint. North American visitors with GSM cellular handsets
and wireless accounts with AT&T or Cingular can
arrange international roaming.
Electricity
FortisTCI supplies electricity at a frequency of 60HZ,
and either single phase or three phase at one of three
standard voltages for residential or commercial service.
FortisTCI continues to invest in a robust and resilient grid
to ensure the highest level of reliability to customers. The
company is integrating renewable energy into its grid and
provides options for customers to participate in two solar
energy programs.
Departure tax
US $60. It is typically included in the price of your airline
ticket.
Courier service
Delivery service is provided by FedEx, with offices on
Providenciales and Grand Turk, and DHL. UPS service is
limited to incoming delivery.
Postal service
The Post Office and Philatelic Bureau in Providenciales is
located downtown on Airport Road. In Grand Turk, the
Post Office and Philatelic Bureau are on Church Folly. The
Islands are known for their varied and colorful stamp
issues.
Media
Multi-channel satellite television is received from the U.S.
and Canada and transmitted via cable or over the air.
Local station WIV-TV broadcasts on Channel 4 and Island
EyeTV on Channel 5. People’s Television offers 75 digitally
transmitted television stations, along with local news
and talk shows on Channel 8. There are also a number of
local radio stations, magazines, and newspapers.
Medical services
There are no endemic tropical diseases in TCI. There are
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Times of the Islands Spring 2020 75
large, modern hospitals on Grand Turk and Providenciales.
Both hospitals offer a full range of services including:
24/7 emergency room, operating theaters, diagnostic
imaging, maternity suites, dialysis suites, blood bank,
physiotherapy, and dentistry.
In addition, several general practitioners operate in
the country, and there is a recompression chamber, along
with a number of private pharmacies.
Immigration
A resident’s permit is required to live in the Islands. A
work permit and business license are also required to
work and/or establish a business. These are generally
granted to those offering skills, experience, and qualifications
not widely available on the Islands. Priority is given
to enterprises that will provide employment and training
for T&C Islanders.
Government/Legal system
TCI is a British Crown colony. There is a Queen-appointed
Governor, HE Nigel John Dakin. He presides over an executive
council formed by the elected local government.
Lady Sharlene Cartwright-Robinson is the country’s first
woman premier, leading a majority People’s Democratic
Movement (PDM) House of Assembly.
The legal system is based upon English Common
Law and administered by a resident Chief Justice, Chief
Magistrate, and Deputy Magistrates. Judges of the Court
Harbourof Club:Layout Appeal visit 1the 8/17/16 Islands twice 10:16a year AM and Pagethere 1 is a final
Right of Appeal to Her Majesty’s Privy Council in London.
Harbour Club Villas
Turtle Tail Drive, Providenciales
Six one-bedroom villas.
Dive operators at our dock.
Bonefishing in the lake.
Fabulous beaches nearby.
Ideal for couples or groups.
Trip Advisor
Travellers’ Choice
Awards Winner
E: harbourclub@tciway.tc
T: 1 649 941 5748
See our website
for details.
www.HARBOURCLUBVILLAS.com
Taxes
There are currently no direct taxes on either income
or capital for individuals or companies. There are no
exchange controls. Indirect taxation comprises customs
duties and fees, stamp duty, taxes on accommodations,
restaurants, vehicle rentals, other services and gasoline,
as well as business license fees and departure taxes.
Economy
Historically, TCI’s economy relied on the export of salt.
Currently, tourism, the offshore finance industry, and
fishing generate the most private sector income. The
Islands’ main exports are lobster and conch. Practically
all consumer goods and foodstuffs are imported.
The Turks & Caicos Islands are recognised as an
important offshore financial centre, offering services
such as company formation, offshore insurance, banking,
trusts, limited partnerships, and limited life companies.
The Financial Services Commission regulates the industry
and spearheads the development of offshore legislation.
People
Citizens of the Turks & Caicos Islands are termed
“Belongers” and are primarily descendants of African
slaves who were brought to the Islands to work in the
salt ponds and cotton plantations. The country’s large
expatriate population includes Canadians, Americans,
Brits and Europeans, along with Haitians, Jamaicans,
Dominicans, Bahamians, Indians, and Filipinos.
Churches
Churches are the center of community life and there
are many faiths represented in the Islands including:
Adventist, Anglican, Assembly of God, Baha’i, Baptist,
Catholic, Church of God, Episcopal, Jehovah’s Witnesses,
Methodist and Pentecostal. Visitors are always welcome.
Pets
Incoming pets must have an import permit, veterinary
health certificate, vaccination certificate, and lab test
results to be submitted at the port of entry to obtain
clearance from the TCI Department of Agriculture, Animal
Health Services.
National symbols
The National Bird is the Brown pelican (Pelecanus occidentalis).
The National Plant is Island heather (Limonium
bahamense) found nowhere else in the world. The
National Tree is the Caribbean pine (Pinus caribaea var.
76 www.timespub.tc
ahamensis). The National Costume consists of white cotton
dresses tied at the waist for women and simple shirts
and loose pants for men, with straw hats. Colors representing
the various islands are displayed on the sleeves
and bases. The National Song is “This Land of Ours” by
the late Rev. E.C. Howell, PhD. Peas and Hominy (Grits)
with Dry Conch is revered as symbolic island fare.
Going green
TCI Waste Disposal Services currently offers recycling
services through weekly collection of recyclable aluminum,
glass, and plastic. Single-use plastic bags have been
banned country-wide as of May 1, 2019.
Recreation
Sporting activities are centered around the water. Visitors
can choose from deep-sea, reef, or bonefishing, sailing,
glass-bottom boat and semi-sub excursions, windsurfing,
waterskiing, parasailing, sea kayaking, snorkelling, scuba
diving, kiteboarding, stand up paddleboarding, and
beachcombing. Pristine reefs, abundant marine life, and
excellent visibility make TCI a world-class diving destination.
Tennis and golf—there is an 18 hole championship
course on Providenciales—are also popular.
The Islands are an ecotourist’s paradise. Visitors can
enjoy unspoilt wilderness and native flora and fauna in 33
national parks, nature reserves, sanctuaries, and areas of
historical interest. The National Trust provides trail guides
to several hiking trails, as well as guided tours of major
historical sites. There is an excellent national museum on
Grand Turk, with an auxillary branch on Providenciales. A
scheduled ferry and a selection of tour operators make it
easy to take day trips to the outer islands.
Other land-based activities include bicycling, horseback
riding and football (soccer). Personal trainers are
available to motivate you, working out of several fitness
centres. You will also find a variety of spa and body treatment
services.
Nightlife includes local bands playing island music
at bars and restaurants and some nightclubs. There is
a casino on Providenciales, along with many electronic
gaming parlours. Stargazing is extraordinary!
Shoppers will find Caribbean paintings, T-shirts,
sports and beachwear, and locally made handicrafts,
including straw work and conch crafts. Duty free outlets
sell liquor, jewellery, watches, perfume, leather goods,
crystal, china, cameras, electronics, brand-name clothing
and accessories, along with Cuban cigars. a
subscription form
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TIMES
OF THE
ISLANDS
SAMPLING THE SOUL OF THE TURKS & CAICOS ISLANDS
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Times of the Islands Spring 2020 77
where to stay
78 www.timespub.tc
where to stay
Times of the Islands Spring 2020 79
dining
80 www.timespub.tc
dining
Times of the Islands Spring 2020 81
Calls Spa Services
Out
Hair Reduction
Permanent
& Body Waxing
Face
Facials
Anti-aging
classified ads
Caicu Naniki_Caicu Naniki classified 8/9/18 12:05 PM Page 1
R E J O U V E N A N C E
SPA
649-432-7546
Touch of Bliss_Layout 1 8/9/18 11:59 AM Page 1
www.rejouvenancespa.com
Community Fellowship Centre
A Life-Changing Experience
Sunday Divine Worship 9 AM
Visitors Welcome!
Tel: 649.941.3484 • Web: cfctci.com
Phone: 649-242-3439 or 649-346-7344
Email: touchofbliss@rocketmail.com
Newly located at Caribbean Place
PRIVATE TOURS TO
NORTH & MIDDLE CAICOS &
SOUTH CAICOS.
SWIM LESSONS & SWIM SAFARIS.
STAND-UP-PADDLEBOARD
RENTALS & SALES.
5 STAR TRIP ADVISOR RATING
Stop by Swim & Surf Store at
Caicos Cafe Plaza, Grace Bay.
(649) 432-5000
www.caicunaniki.com
D&Bswift_Layout 1 5/8/18 7:24 AM Page 1
R & K
AUTO
FOR ALL YOUR
RELIABLE AND
AFFORDABLE
RENTAL NEEDS
Diagnostic Services • Wheel Alignment
Balancing • Tune Ups
Exhaust Repairs • A/C Repairs
Radiator Pressure Testing
Ralph Carmichael, Partner
649 242 0063 • 432 2374
649-941-8438 and 649-241-4968
SCOOTER BOBS_Layout 1 8/8/18 10:57 AM Page GBC2017_Layout 1 2/16/17 9:10 AM Page 1
autorental@dnbautoparts.com
We’re here to
make your holiday
the island way...
DEPENDABLE VEHICLE HIRE
SERVICE OFFERED:
Provo & North-Middle Caicos
Office: 946-4684
Amos: 441-2667 (after hours)
Yan: 247-6755 (after hours)
Bob: 231-0262 (after hours)
scooterbobs@gmail.com
www.scooterbobstci.com
Grace Bay Road across from Regent Street
Fun Friendly People
Appreciating Your Business!
941-8500
www.gracebaycarrentals.com
82 www.timespub.tc
SUSTAINABLE
ENERGY
You Can
Count On
R-NETS: A roadmap for
TCI’s energy future
Solar integration
to the FortisTCI grid
We’re building partnerships to deliver a more sustainable
energy future for the Turks and Caicos Islands.
With the Resilient National Energy Transition
Strategy (R-NETS) serving as a roadmap, and with
new and ongoing investments in solar energy
generation, solar plus battery pilot project, and
an electric vehicle and charging station project,
FortisTCI is working every day to deliver resilient,
cost-effective and environmentally sustainable
energy, to fuel growth and development.
Solar + battery storage
pilot project
Electric vehicle
pilot project
www.fortistci.com | 649-946-4313 |
For Those Who Seek An
Exceptional Vacation Home & Lifestyle
Turtle Tail Estate
Turtle Tail Oceanfront
MLS 2000043
THE FINEST COLLECTION
Condominium | Home & Villa | Land | New Development
649.946.4474 | info@tcsothebysrealty.com | turksandcaicosSIR.com
Venture House, Grace Bay | Resort Locations: Grace Bay Club and The Palms
Each franchise is Independently Owned and Operated.