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American World Traveler Spring 2020 Issue

Now in our 18th year of publishing, American World Traveler explores the culture and history of worldwide destinations, sharing the adventure of discovery with our readers and motivating them to make their travel dreams a reality. Published quarterly, AWT helps sophisticated, independent American travelers choose their next destination by offering a lively blend of intelligent, informative articles and tantalizing photographic images from our World’s best destinations, cruises, accommodations and activities to suit every traveler's taste.

Now in our 18th year of publishing, American World Traveler explores the culture and history of worldwide destinations, sharing the adventure of discovery with our readers and motivating them to make their travel dreams a reality. Published quarterly, AWT helps sophisticated, independent American travelers choose their next destination by offering a lively blend of intelligent, informative articles and tantalizing photographic images from our World’s best destinations, cruises, accommodations and activities to suit every traveler's taste.

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Croatia Japan South Africa Costa Rica Florida<br />

A M E R I C A N<br />

<strong>Traveler</strong><br />

W O R L D<br />

Already 18 Years<br />

<strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2020</strong><br />

Where to Next ?<br />

C o m e W i t h U s & S e e T h e W o r l d !


Published by<br />

Canadian <strong>World</strong> Traveller<br />

5473 Royalmount, suite 224<br />

TMR (Montreal) Qc H4P 1J3<br />

Welcome to <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveler</strong><br />

<strong>American</strong> <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveler</strong><br />

347 5th Ave, suite 1402<br />

New York, NY 10016<br />

Tel: 1-855-738-8232<br />

www.worldtraveler.travel<br />

info@worldtraveler.travel<br />

info@canadianworldtraveller.com<br />

info@americanworldtraveler.com<br />

Publisher<br />

Michael Morcos<br />

Editor-in-chief<br />

Greg James<br />

Contributing Editor<br />

David J. Cox<br />

Graphic Department<br />

Al Cheong<br />

Advertising Department<br />

Leo Santini<br />

Marketing Department<br />

Tania Tassone<br />

Distribution<br />

Royce Dillon<br />

Senior Travel Writers:<br />

Susan Campbell<br />

Steve Gillick<br />

Regular Contributors:<br />

Habeeb Salloum<br />

Jennifer Merrick<br />

Olivia Balsinger<br />

Mike Cohen<br />

Ilona Kauremszky<br />

Natalie Ayotte<br />

Jasmine Morcos<br />

Daniel Smajovits<br />

Cherie DeLory<br />

Lisa TE Sonne<br />

Alexandra Cohen<br />

Jessica Percy Campbell<br />

Mathieu Morcos<br />

Gregory Caltabanis<br />

Anne-Marie Macloughlin<br />

Janice Mucalov<br />

IIn this issue, we start our world-wide<br />

tour in Japan with ‘A Refreshing Visit<br />

to Tokyo’s Miyakejima Island’ before<br />

we head to the city itself to experience some<br />

of the best this metropolis has to offer. While<br />

in Asia, we go to Vietnam to discover the<br />

beautiful Halong Bay with Paradise Cruises.<br />

Next, we jet-off to Europe for some wideranging<br />

adventures. We start in the little visited<br />

city of Kiev and find out it has lots to<br />

offer travelers. Next we go to Croatia to find<br />

out why it is one Europe’s most popular destinations<br />

before heading to Mont Blanc,<br />

France, to hike through some breathtaking<br />

trails. Finally, we go to Budapest to take<br />

another fantastic Viking cruise, this time on<br />

the Danube to experience some Christmas<br />

market magic.<br />

To Africa we go, first for another cruise, this<br />

time it is on the mighty Nile to discover magnificent<br />

temples and monuments and to see<br />

how the locals live. On the other side of this<br />

content, we head to South Africa and view its<br />

magnificent wildlife at Kruger National Park.<br />

In the Americas, we head to New York City<br />

to take in a Broadway play and then some<br />

humor at a local comedy club. Heading<br />

west, we first go to Wisconsin for the wonderful<br />

‘Cherry Orchards, Light Houses and<br />

Shoreline’ before heading way north to<br />

experience some amazing scenery and<br />

wildlife on a cruise with Uncrusie<br />

Adventures.<br />

To the complete other end of the USA, we<br />

find an assortment of amazing things to see<br />

and do in Central Florida. From here we<br />

climb abound for a delightful Holland<br />

America cruise to the Caribbean. While in<br />

the area, we head to Costa Rica for yet more<br />

wildlife sightings and then for rest and relaxation<br />

‘Finding Pura Vida in Puntarenas’.<br />

Happy Travels!<br />

Disclaimer: <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveler</strong> has made every effort to<br />

verify that the information provided in this publication<br />

is as accurate as possible. However, we accept<br />

no responsibility for any loss, injury, or inconvenience<br />

sustained by anyone resulting from the information<br />

contained herein nor for any information<br />

provided by our advertisers.


Destinations<br />

Crusing Section<br />

36<br />

South Africa 8 Japan 10<br />

Croatia 12 Wisconsin 64<br />

Cruise News<br />

Viking<br />

Paradise Cruises<br />

Uncruise<br />

Nile Cruise<br />

Holland America<br />

Stay & Play - 52<br />

Costa Rica 66 Florida 68<br />

Kiev<br />

Curacao Marriott Beach Resort<br />

Around the <strong>World</strong> 14


8<br />

Kruger National Park: A Journey into the Wild<br />

Article and photography by Daniel Smajovits<br />

Since 2004, Ezrom Mathumbu’s office<br />

has been the 20,000 square kilometers<br />

that comprises South Africa’s<br />

Kruger National Park.<br />

While Ezrom, who is one of Kruger’s senior<br />

hospitality managers, is very welcoming to the<br />

thousands of guests that pass through Satara<br />

Rest Camp on a daily basis, an electric fence<br />

is in place to keep all those pesky neighbours<br />

away. For good reason too: these neighbours<br />

aren’t stopping by for a cup of coffee, as just<br />

outside Satara’s fence are a few prides of<br />

lions, coalitions of cheetahs and leaps of<br />

leopards. Further in the distance? A few herds<br />

of elephants and towers of giraffes.<br />

Needless to say, during our visit to Kruger, we<br />

were glad Ezrom had just paid his electricity<br />

bill.<br />

Evident from the onset of our visit to Kruger<br />

was the hospitality displayed by Ezrom and all<br />

the staff from South Africa’s National Parks<br />

Service (SANParks). Their main goal, other<br />

than ensuring everyone’s safety, is ensuring<br />

that visitors from around the world experience<br />

the best of what South Africa has to offer on<br />

what is often a once-in-a-lifetime trip.<br />

Larger than the State of Israel and home to<br />

the Big Five: elephants, buffalos, rhinoceroses,<br />

leopards and lions, Kruger National Park<br />

welcomes over one million visitors per year. It<br />

is for those one million reasons that the South<br />

African government and the National Parks<br />

Service ensures that the park remains accessible<br />

for all types of travelers.<br />

Depending on the length of your stay in South<br />

Africa, getting to Kruger National Park has<br />

never been easier. While some guests might<br />

make the five-hour drive from Johannesburg,<br />

it is much easier to hop on a flight into one of<br />

the nearby airports: Nelspruit (KMI),<br />

Hoedspruit (HDS) and Phalaborwa (PHW).<br />

Much smaller Skukuza airport is located within<br />

Kruger itself, with South African Airways<br />

operating a daily flight between Cape Town


and Johannesburg. Each airport has rental<br />

car facilities for you to begin your safari (journey)<br />

immediately.<br />

Even for the most experienced of drivers, getting<br />

behind the wheel in Kruger is an experience<br />

unto itself. Nonetheless, despite the<br />

occasional elephant traffic jam, renting a car<br />

and navigating the park at your leisure is<br />

unquestionably the best way to experience this<br />

adventure to the fullest. A self-drive through<br />

the park allows you the freedom and flexibility<br />

to stop for a minute or an hour to gaze at<br />

the animals in their natural habitat. As only<br />

park rangers have the ability to drive off<br />

marked roads, so whether you’re with a private<br />

guide or on your own, the views will be<br />

the same.<br />

As with most wildlife-centered trips, luck plays<br />

a role. It is impossible to predict the type of<br />

game you will see, if any. Technology, such as<br />

WT Photo Library<br />

the Latest Sightings app allows users to<br />

enhance the safari experiences of others by<br />

posting animal sightings and activity in realtime.<br />

Each rest camp also has a board where<br />

guests can mark sightings as well. While lowtech,<br />

the board gives guests clues as to where<br />

the animals have congregated in past days.<br />

Since the average game-drive will keep you in<br />

your car for hours at a time, Kruger is home<br />

to both five-star private lodges (min.<br />

$1,000/night) to the most pedestrian of tents<br />

(min. $50/night). Regardless of accommodations,<br />

sleeping within the confines of Kruger is<br />

critical to maximize game viewing. Guests<br />

staying in the park are allowed to begin and<br />

end their game drives up to one hour earlier<br />

or later than those coming in for the day. This<br />

extra time allows you to beat the traffic and<br />

find the best viewing spots.<br />

Each camp offers a variety of lodging, from<br />

the tents to clean, private bungalows with en<br />

suite bathrooms (min. $150/night).<br />

Furthermore, most camps have a full-service<br />

restaurant and an on-site convenience store.<br />

As the majority of guests opt to braai (barbeque)<br />

their own meals, stores are stocked<br />

with a variety of fresh and frozen foods as well<br />

as fruits and vegetables. The largest campsite,<br />

Skukuza, looks more like a mini village than a<br />

typical camp. Included within its confines is<br />

the aforementioned airport, gas station,<br />

restaurant, library, a conference centre and<br />

even a 9-hole golf course. <strong>Traveler</strong>s often<br />

begin or end their journeys here, making it<br />

the most popular campsite.<br />

Although squeezing in a quick 9-holes might<br />

signal the start of a good day for some, we<br />

recommend to begin each day with a rangerled<br />

game drive. As animals are most active in<br />

the early morning and evening, park run vehicles<br />

are the only way to experience the environment<br />

during the periods when the gates<br />

are closed to the general public. Despite<br />

spending your day on a game drive of your<br />

own, guests occasionally overlook the excursions<br />

conducted by the park rangers. Driving<br />

traditional open-air vehicles, most major<br />

camp sites offer drives at sunrise, sunset and<br />

in the evening, in addition to bush walks.<br />

Rangers undergo two years of training and<br />

often have many more years of experience,<br />

evident by their ability to spot and track<br />

wildlife as well as answer any and all<br />

questions. Furthermore, these drives<br />

ensure a complete sensory experience,<br />

as rangers often shut down their engines to<br />

allow guests to appreciate the sounds of the<br />

wildlife. While the occasional elephant or buffalo<br />

traffic jam during a self-drive is thrilling<br />

and definitely a highlight, we suggest that<br />

guests participate in two ranger-led activities<br />

per day to ensure the best of what Kruger has<br />

to offer.<br />

To truly immerse yourself in the majesty of the<br />

park, when checking in at any of your campsites,<br />

inquire about a bush braai. These special<br />

excursions only take place if a minimum<br />

of six guests are interested and offer the oncein-a-lifetime<br />

opportunity to eat a five-star<br />

meal under the South African stars. With only<br />

torches lighting the way, guests dine in the<br />

dark while listening to the sounds of wildlife.<br />

With an armed ranger standing guard to prevent<br />

any unwanted dinner guests, the bush<br />

braai will be the highlight of your trip.<br />

For us, after four full days in Kruger National<br />

Park, it became abundantly clear how guests<br />

return year after year and staff like Ezrom<br />

have yet to experience a dull moment at the<br />

office. Whether you’re spending an hour on<br />

the side of the road gazing at a herd of elephants<br />

or you’re on the prowl for that elusive<br />

leopard, the freedom and unpredictability of<br />

the park is unmatched on earth.<br />

With accommodations that meet all budgets<br />

and needs, fully stocked stores, restaurants<br />

and the abundance of wildlife, Kruger<br />

National Park offers a life-changing experience<br />

for individuals, couples and families.<br />

Courtesy of the South African government, a<br />

safari has never been more accessible and<br />

affordable.<br />

All accommodations and ranger-led activities<br />

can be booked online at: www.sanparks.org.<br />

As the park is busy throughout the year, it is<br />

recommended to book a minimum of six<br />

months in advance. Should you have any<br />

questions regarding accessibility, SANParks<br />

staff are readily available to answer any and<br />

all questions via e-mail.<br />

www.krugernationalpark.org.za<br />

9<br />

WT Photo Library<br />

<strong>American</strong> <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveler</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2020</strong>


10<br />

A Refreshing Visit to Tokyo’s Miyakejima Island<br />

Article and photography by Steve Gillick<br />

Tokyo bound travellers are in for a<br />

hot time! Surprising adventures<br />

await on Miyakejima Island where<br />

visitors come face-to-face with the Island’s<br />

astounding volcanic scenery.<br />

Our Island guide, Ms. Hitomi Kikuchi noted<br />

that Ebisu, one of the seven Japanese<br />

Happy Gods, and the god of fishermen is<br />

associated with the Izu Islands in Tokyo<br />

Prefecture. “Every time there’s a volcanic<br />

eruption, it can be interpreted as a religious<br />

event because it means that the god is present”.<br />

And it follows that Miyakejima should<br />

be truly blessed as it is the most active of all<br />

the Izu islands!<br />

We had a wonderful preview of volcanic<br />

splendour on our 55-minute flight to<br />

Miyakejima from Tokyo’s small Chofu<br />

Airport, when our 19-passenger Dornier<br />

228-212 aircraft passed right by Mt. Fuji,<br />

with its white symmetrical cone showcased<br />

against the backdrop of a deep blue sky. But<br />

while Mt Fuji has been dormant since 1707,<br />

the last volcanic activity on Miyakejima was<br />

in the year 2000 with three prior eruptions<br />

occurring roughly 20 years apart in 1983,<br />

1962 and 1940.<br />

When we asked about tourism on the island,<br />

Hitomi-san explained that she was originally<br />

from Nara but in 1999 she came to<br />

Miyakejima as an instructor for the “swim<br />

with wild dolphins” program. She fell in love<br />

with the Island’s natural and seasonal<br />

attractions: In <strong>Spring</strong>, Miyakejima is a birders<br />

paradise; Summer is prime time for<br />

swimming, fishing and diving to see the<br />

coral reefs, and Winter activities include<br />

trekkiing and ocean fishing “right off the<br />

shore”. Other Islanders chimed in to mention<br />

favourite past times that included participation<br />

in the Matsuri (the seasonal festivals),<br />

Taiko (drumming), Jogging, surfing<br />

and biking. In fact, each November the<br />

“WERIDE” endurance race near Shichito<br />

Observatory attracts over 130 bicycle racers<br />

from all parts of Japan and overseas.


For visitors, touring around Miyakejima’s 28<br />

kilometer (17.4 miles) circumference leads to<br />

scenic beaches, crashing waves, shrines and<br />

‘geo spots’, that bear witness to a violent volcanic<br />

past. Excellent explanatory signage in<br />

both Japanese and English, is available at<br />

every geo spot; something that positively<br />

supplemented the engaging information<br />

provided by Hitomi-san.<br />

The volcanic eruption in 2000 resulted in the<br />

evacuation of the entire island due to mudslides,<br />

ash and gas, and it has only been<br />

since 2015 that island life has returned to<br />

“fully normal”. Our first interaction with the<br />

effects of that eruption was at the Shiitori<br />

Shrine, just north of the airport. A vermilion<br />

torii gate stands in front of a small shrine<br />

while in the background, bare, dead-white<br />

trees poke through recent green foliage. But<br />

then our guide pointed to what appeared to<br />

be a white log and noted the photos on the<br />

nearby sign that showed how mudslides had<br />

completely swallowed the original torii gate<br />

and the ‘white log’ was in fact the lintel (top<br />

bar) of that torii gate. The rest was underground.<br />

And an even more poignant geo spot is the<br />

Ako Lava Trail where visitors traverse a<br />

boardwalk built over the now rough, sharp<br />

lava stones, that in liquid form, engulfed<br />

most of Ako Hot <strong>Spring</strong> Village in October<br />

1983. Roughly 340 houses were destroyed.<br />

The Trail goes right by the school that was<br />

buried in lava, almost to the roof.<br />

Most of the Geo Spots educate visitors about<br />

the island landscape that was so dramatically<br />

altered by volcanic activity. Mt. Hyotan<br />

(Hyotanyama) lies in a bleak desert-like<br />

landscape of grey/black soil with dashes of<br />

yellow scrub brush. But as we hiked up the<br />

hill, we could see the red soil crater with<br />

hardened lava shapes resembling contemporary<br />

art. On one side there was the white<br />

surf and blue waters of the Pacific Ocean<br />

while on the other side was a verdant forest<br />

with low, rugged mountains in the distance.<br />

Hyotanyama was created in one day during<br />

the 1940 volcanic eruption. The observation<br />

point on nearby Mt. Sanshichi created by the<br />

1962 eruption, overlooks the Hyotanyama<br />

crater, highlighting contrasting colours of<br />

black, red and brown soil with the azure sky<br />

and ocean. This spot has been listed as one<br />

of the 100 Views of New Tokyo. It’s quite<br />

spectacular.<br />

Nippana Shinzan was also created in one<br />

night during the 1983 eruption. We had to<br />

hold on to our baseball caps as we hiked up<br />

the black rock hill due an invigorating warm<br />

wind. Technically called a pyroclastic cone (a<br />

hill made of volcanic rocks and ash), the<br />

dramatic shape of the ‘cone’ with its black<br />

and red rocks and resembling a man-made<br />

fortification, is absolutely amazing.<br />

And again we held our hats tightly as we<br />

stood on the summit of Shichito Observatory,<br />

a mountain peak where the strong winds mix<br />

with the beautiful, hilly, volcanic scenery. This<br />

is part of the Ako Geo Trekking route, as well<br />

as one of the more demanding segments of<br />

the annual WERIDE endurance bicycle challenge.<br />

For scenery of a different nature, we journeyed<br />

to Tairo-ike, the largest freshwater<br />

pond in all the Izu Islands. This area appeals<br />

to two very special travel interests. Nearby is<br />

Maigo-jii, a giant Chinquapin Oak tree<br />

which is literally a crowning reward to see<br />

for flora aficionados and members of Big<br />

Tree associations.<br />

And for birders, the pond area is one of the<br />

prime venues to spot the endemic Izu Thrush<br />

(a.k.a. Akakokko). We joined the Miyake<br />

Nature Center staff to view birds such as the<br />

Shichito Mejiro, the Blue Rock Thrush and<br />

some Hiyodori (Bul Buls).<br />

As we explored further, wonders never<br />

seemed to cease! At Megane-iwa, ‘the eyeglass<br />

boulder’, sunset views through the one<br />

remaining lens, once a cave, (the other collapsed<br />

during the Isewon Typhoon in 1959)<br />

are on the island’s ‘must experience’ list.<br />

Remarkable too are the dark, striking cliffs at<br />

Toga Beach as well as Kamanoshiri Beach<br />

where we were fortunate to spot a curious<br />

Blue Sea Turtle who swam by and posed for<br />

photos.<br />

11<br />

To a dedicated foodie, islands and oceans<br />

mean only one thing: fresh seafood.<br />

We enjoyed very tasty dinners and breakfasts<br />

at our friendly hotel, the Kairaku, that<br />

also offered wonderful sunset views of Ako<br />

Port. But we had an appetite to explore further.<br />

At Hikoshichi restaurant, owned by the welcoming<br />

couple Takao and Tomiko<br />

Watanabe, we relished a delicious lunch of<br />

home-made soba noodles, plump shrimp<br />

tempura, crunchy pickles and cold draft<br />

beer. At Ikeyoshi, owned by the affable<br />

Kimura family, we were in a state of taste<br />

bud bliss over the incredibly fresh Chirashi<br />

(assorted seafood on a bed of rice) with<br />

savoury Miso soup and yet another cold<br />

draft beer.<br />

On the road we popped into Gyunyu<br />

Senbei, where the third generation of the<br />

Hiramatsu family makes delicious sweet<br />

milk biscuits, an Island exclusive! And what<br />

better way to indulge in the spirit of the destination<br />

than a visit to Miyakejima Shuzo,<br />

where wheat-based Shochu (at 25% alcohol)<br />

is produced and sold. Free, self-serve samples<br />

and a chat with Toji, the Shochu Master,<br />

made for a very pleasant visit.<br />

Exploring Miyakejima is a unique adventure<br />

filled with astounding volcanic scenery as<br />

well as great opportunities for photography,<br />

birding, swimming, fishing, hiking and gastronomy.<br />

It’s a nature-escape with a truly<br />

refreshing difference!<br />

www.miyakejima.gr.jp/<br />

<strong>American</strong> <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveler</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2020</strong>


C r o a t i a<br />

Europe’s Hot Destination for <strong>2020</strong> and Beyond<br />

by Olivia Balsinger


IIt seems as though the entire past<br />

decade has been Croatia’s year, with<br />

balmy, rugged beaches and sapphire<br />

seawater adjacent to towering ancient walls<br />

that store the tales of time, how could<br />

Croatia not top every traveler’s list? Well,<br />

the country officially deserves the spotlight<br />

in <strong>2020</strong>, as Croatia was named the top<br />

“Emerging Destination” by Virtuoso travel<br />

advisors for the new decade, honoring the<br />

stir caused by the Game-of-Thrones effect,<br />

dramatic landscapes, and proximity to<br />

other European destinations. Now let’s take<br />

a deep dive into this historical gem on the<br />

Dalmatian Coast and explore why Croatia<br />

should be on your shortlist, both now and<br />

for years to come.<br />

Split<br />

Of course, Split—a coastal city that seamlessly<br />

intertwines modern life and ancient<br />

history is widely known for its lavish yacht<br />

parties and Mediterranean climate in the<br />

summer. What you may soon discover is<br />

that Split is an all-season destination and<br />

considerably quieter and more affordable<br />

outside of July and August. In the wintertime,<br />

the city is alive celebrating the holidays<br />

in more temperate weather conditions.<br />

The newly opened Cornaro Hotel is a<br />

modern escape in the historic Old Town,<br />

standing just feet away from Diocletian’s<br />

Palace, where Emperor Diocletian slept<br />

every evening after voluntarily surrendering<br />

the throne of the Roman Empire. The<br />

Palace today, perched on the harbor and<br />

forming about half of Split’s Old Town, is<br />

still vibrant with life - the Michelin-starred<br />

restaurant Zoi, for example, is built into the<br />

4th-century walls. If you’re a Game of<br />

Thrones fan, prepare to be flabbergasted<br />

at the real-life movie set you’ll wander<br />

through in the Palace as well, even more<br />

amplified with an official GoT guide!<br />

Split is truly “split” between the old world<br />

and new in juxtaposition as well. Modernday<br />

restaurants, cafes, designer shops, and<br />

general innovation are sprinkled into the<br />

rich history and storied past. Between modern<br />

Mexican cuisine at To Je Tako and<br />

Maltese delights at Corto Maltese Freestyle<br />

food, there are a surprising amount of<br />

ways to taste the world in a city with a population<br />

of less than 200,000 residents.<br />

Dubrovnik<br />

Another famed destination in Croatia is<br />

Dubrovnik, the ancient jewel of baroque<br />

architecture and limestone streets cradled<br />

in the Dalmatian Mountains. Whether pretending<br />

to be Cersei Lannister a la Game<br />

of Thrones on the iconic Walk of Shame<br />

staircase, or imagining defending the city’s<br />

honor on the famed - and highly<br />

Instagrammable - Walls of Dubrovnik,<br />

imaginative travelers will have a ball in<br />

town. The five-star Hotel Excelsior, towering<br />

over the Adriatic and Old Town skyline, is<br />

the ultimate retreat for tourists, walking distance<br />

to the city’s sights, yet a refuge from<br />

the crowds on its own with an otherworldly<br />

spa and reclining chairs overlooking the<br />

moody ocean underneath. (And pro tip:<br />

purchase a room or suite facing the sea for<br />

the most magical array of hues over the<br />

water each night. This is the optimal view to<br />

pair with a glass of Croatian wine!)<br />

Dubrovnik is also emerging as an off-season<br />

destination, as well. The mild Croatian<br />

winter is a prime time to bask in culture,<br />

wander the holiday markets of Old Town<br />

and meander the main street, the Stradun,<br />

made of limestone but sleek as marble, all<br />

without the hoards of crowding summer<br />

months inevitably bring. (And pro tip: If<br />

you're lucky enough to have a few days in<br />

Dubrovnik, take a day trip 20 kilometers<br />

south of the city, to the idyllic resort town of<br />

Cavat, famed for its pristine and less<br />

touristy and crowded Adriatic beaches,<br />

ancient Illyrian necropolises dotting the<br />

coastline, and ample fresh seafood available.)<br />

Rijeka<br />

And this year there is even more reason to<br />

visit - Rijeka, Croatia’s third-largest city and<br />

largest port, will be honored as the<br />

European Capital of Culture in <strong>2020</strong>.<br />

Rijeka has benefited from a diverse history<br />

with Mediterranean, Eastern<br />

13<br />

European, and Central European<br />

influences which has shaped its<br />

eclectic architecture, culture, and progressive<br />

spirit. Water and the port are the<br />

anchoring themes of Rijeka, which are conceived<br />

within the symbolic and historical<br />

center of the city: its anchorage point – the<br />

port. Cultural messages with the power to<br />

change Europe and the world are traveling<br />

from Rijeka - the Port of Diversity - in seven<br />

directions.<br />

The entire program of Rijeka <strong>2020</strong> –<br />

European Capital of Culture comprises<br />

about 600 events taking place in <strong>2020</strong>. It is<br />

divided into seven thematic blocks or flagships,<br />

which deliver the specific messages<br />

of the European Capital of Culture project<br />

in Rijeka through various cultural events.<br />

The “Sweet & Salt” flagship enables the<br />

new architectural and urban development<br />

of areas that will modify Rijeka by the sea<br />

(Salt) and by the Rječina River (Sweet),<br />

which flows through the city center. These<br />

programs, centering on the significance of<br />

space, show different ways in which architecture<br />

and art open the doors of overlooked<br />

places, create new areas for citizens<br />

to move and meet and breathe life into<br />

spaces that deserve to be alive. Following<br />

the makeover, the Rijeka City Museum,<br />

Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art,<br />

City Library, and the Children’s House will<br />

become centerpieces of cultural life in the<br />

city.<br />

From its historical relevance to its crystal<br />

blue seas, from its castles that hold the<br />

country’s secrets in their imposing stone<br />

walls to its modern port cities that emulate<br />

and exemplify the European vision, Croatia<br />

is certainly a destination to keep on your<br />

radar now and for years to come.<br />

www.croatia.hr<br />

<strong>American</strong> <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveler</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2020</strong>


14<br />

Around The <strong>World</strong><br />

(in 22 pages)<br />

Exploring India with Turban Adventures<br />

by Olivia Balsinger<br />

I usually pride myself on my ability to navigate foreign lands<br />

solo, balancing practicality and creativity. But the first time my<br />

partner and I visited India, we knew we needed to entrust<br />

experts. After much research, we booked a six-day Golden<br />

Triangle Tour with the Jaipur-based tour company, Turban<br />

Adventures. I surrendered my pig-headed stubbornness in<br />

logistical planning to the company and it was the best decision<br />

we could have made.<br />

We were picked up from the airport and brought to four-star<br />

hotels in the comfort of our knowledgeable local driver, whose<br />

been with Turban Adventures for ten years. Most importantly,<br />

however, the curated and local experiences arranged by the<br />

company brought the bright and colorful Indian culture alive<br />

for us. We left the Taj Mahal not only with stunning photographs,<br />

but with deep insight into the history of the marble<br />

mausoleum. We experienced a cooking class in Jaipur with a<br />

local family, learning invaluable lessons about each other’s<br />

cultures. Our first foray through India was safe, clean, and,<br />

most importantly, an authentic adventure thanks to the guidance<br />

of Turban Adventures.<br />

www.turbanadventures.com<br />

China Tourism Introduces<br />

New Brand Logo<br />

China National Tourism Administration (CNTA) has made<br />

“Beautiful China” the tag line of its tourism and introduced a<br />

new global brand logo. With an overall look as a stamp, the<br />

new logo integrates modern messaging with the ancient<br />

Chinese art form of calligraphy. The hieroglyph in the background<br />

means “travel” in ancient Chinese language, which shows a flag guiding a couple around.<br />

The blue color represents the sky, delivering China tourism’s concepts - vitality, harmony and<br />

green travel. The red color gives tribute to the Chinese civilization that has been going on for<br />

thousands of years. Illustrating an international vision, the “Beautiful China” logo represents<br />

China’s promising and welcoming tourism industry.<br />

Balcony Media<br />

Showcases Authentic Vietnam<br />

by Olivia Balsinger<br />

The country of Vietnam is recognized for its generous hospitality, its<br />

diverse and eclectic topography, its spicy and fresh gastronomy,<br />

and, of course, its recent tragic war history. A tour with Balcony<br />

brings all of these facets of this Southeast Asian country together.<br />

Perhaps the most iconic hotel in the entire country is The Sofitel<br />

Legend Metropole hotel in the capital of Hanoi, where a tour with<br />

Balcony begins. The award-winning , storied colonial property sits<br />

gracefully in the French Quarter and quietly yet defiantly has been<br />

pivotal to the city’s history. A tour of the hotel’s recently rediscovered<br />

and slightly claustrophobic tunnel and bunker system, still<br />

standing from the 1960’s war, is the best way to briefly feel the<br />

chaotic remnants of history. Order a “Charlie Chaplin '' at The<br />

Metropole’s famed Bamboo Bar - legend has it this combination of<br />

gin, apricot brandy and lime juice, was this comic actor’s go-to<br />

when he honeymooned here in 1936.<br />

Of course, Vietnam is also known for sunnier topics than war, quite<br />

literally. A short flight from Hanoi, locals and foreigners alike have<br />

long retreated from the hectic, cities saturated with smells and<br />

motorbikes to explore the pristine and still coastlines. Balcony<br />

brings you to two distinct properties in Cam Ranh, where relaxation<br />

and cultural integration are at the forefront. The Anam Hotel,<br />

opened in October 2019, seamlessly integrates Vietnamese hospitality<br />

with family-friendly activities, including a splash waterpark<br />

and twelve swimming pools, which cascade down to the ocean.<br />

Another choice with Balcony is a luxury stay at one of Vietnam’s<br />

quintessential Indochine-era inspired design hotels, which honors<br />

the local area with activities such as local cooking classes and a<br />

buffet where mothers of the staff cook Vietnamese classics for<br />

guests.<br />

www.balconymediagroup.com<br />

<strong>American</strong> <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveler</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2020</strong>


16<br />

Good to Go!<br />

Great Travel Gear and Gadgets<br />

Our travel specialists review the best travel gear and gadgets to get you on the go better<br />

<strong>American</strong> <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveler</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2020</strong>


kayaking and a walk through the<br />

17<br />

woods, while at night it was perfect for<br />

a sit-down dinner with the local folks. It<br />

is both stylish and durable. Being made of<br />

synthetic material means it does not stretch or<br />

shrink. It can be washed with all my other<br />

clothes and tumble dried on low heat.<br />

On top of it all, it is wind and rain proof and<br />

with a full hood, I can go into most elements<br />

without having to carry other outerwear. The<br />

JPN Rain Jacket has me covered on all fronts<br />

and I love it!<br />

Splashes of color!<br />

Sporty, Fashionable, and Functional, Helly Hansen has it All<br />

We asked three of our writers to review the latest Helly Hansen<br />

outerwear and here are their reviews.<br />

When I think of spring, I think of flowers<br />

blooming, warmer temperatures and sounds<br />

of birds singing and long walks. However,<br />

there is a very well-known expression that<br />

says, “April showers bring May flowers”.<br />

Changing temperatures and rainy days do not<br />

discourage me from taking long walks with<br />

my two puppies Kenya and Maya anymore.<br />

Finding a weather resistant coat was essential<br />

and I found everything I needed to protect me<br />

from the rain with the women’s Helly Hansen<br />

Sling Moss Raincoat.<br />

Let spring begin!<br />

For years now, I had been looking for the perfect<br />

hip length water-resistant jacket.<br />

Hallelujah! I found it, the Helly Hansen EVIE<br />

Jacket for women was perfect.<br />

Being waterproof, I would test the EVIE jacket<br />

by going for a walk with our family dog in the<br />

pouring rain, purposely leaving the umbrella<br />

behind. With the full hood up, the EVIE jacket<br />

pulled it off by keeping me nice and dry. No<br />

water passed through to my clothes as I<br />

watched the water pellets roll off my jacket as<br />

I walked. It’s also incredibly windproof, which<br />

kept the humidity of the rain at bay.<br />

The hood is perfect, it fits comfortably around<br />

the head protecting your hair and face from<br />

the elements and I found the hood stayed well<br />

in place without using the jacket strings. For<br />

those that need extra warmth, the bottom<br />

flaps can be tied down to keep the cold air<br />

out.<br />

Another convenient feature is that you won't<br />

need a scarf. The jacket’s strong zipper goes<br />

all the way up to the chin, adding that extra<br />

comfort we need when walking outdoors. This<br />

is a two layered jacket, and Helly Hansen<br />

added back ventilation, to accommodate for<br />

those warmer days. So go ahead, and brave<br />

the elements! I just love my new EVIE Jacket<br />

and highly recommend it to all my friends.<br />

Love at first sight!<br />

No hiding it, I am a big fan of Helly Hansen,<br />

and I am on my third Jacket now. The latest<br />

one – the men’s JPN Rain Jacket, is versatile<br />

and perfect for a host of many outdoor occasions.<br />

I bring these beauties on my worldwide<br />

adventures and really appreciate their functionality.<br />

I could go out for social gatherings without<br />

being over or underdressed. On my last trip to<br />

Hill country in Texas, I would find it practical in<br />

many diverse ways. Daytime, it was used for<br />

My favourite thing about this jacket is that they<br />

inspired their limited collection from Sling, an<br />

Oslo based spray painter and artist, by using<br />

clean lines and neon colours. Although this<br />

jacket has a minimalist style, it is super bright<br />

and colourful while being fully waterproof. In<br />

order to prevent excessive heating while wearing<br />

the coat, they integrated slats in the back<br />

to help with breathability.<br />

It also has two external pockets useful to hold<br />

small essentials and a big hood to keep your<br />

hair dry. Although rain and wind has always<br />

been an obstacle during long walks, my new<br />

HH jacket has come to the rescue offering me<br />

both comfort, quality and great design. I highly<br />

recommend it.<br />

Whether it is a night on the town, a business<br />

meeting, light actives or extreme<br />

sports, Helly Hansen has you covered.<br />

www.hellyhansen.com<br />

<strong>American</strong> <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveler</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2020</strong>


Intrepid Travel Unveils Its Annual 'Not Hot List'<br />

Home to magnificent birdlife, pristine beach<br />

getaways, and lush tropical woodlands,<br />

Gambia just goes to show that size isn’t everything.<br />

In response to this growing demand,<br />

Intrepid Travel has launched its Senegal & The<br />

Gambia Expedition.<br />

Greenland - As the number of operators<br />

going to Spitsbergen is on the rise, Greenland<br />

is a great alternative to experience the beauty<br />

of the Arctic Circle. The world’s largest noncontinental<br />

island, where fewer than 60,000<br />

people live, is a literal breath of fresh air.<br />

When Trump expressed interest in buying the<br />

country, Intrepid saw a spike in traffic - as<br />

high as 237% - to its Greenland web pages.<br />

One of the few places left on Earth that can be<br />

described as truly wild, icebergs tower instead<br />

of skyscrapers, and tiny settlements on the<br />

coast still rely on subsistence fishing to survive.<br />

Intrepid Travel just launched their<br />

Greenland Expedition, its first dedicated landbased<br />

tour of the country.<br />

Sudan<br />

Combating the escalating issue of overtourism,<br />

Intrepid Travel, the world’s<br />

largest adventure travel company, is<br />

releasing its annual ‘Not Hot List,’ which highlights<br />

a selection of lesser-discovered destinations<br />

that deserve the spotlight - from<br />

Canada’s Haida Gwaii Islands, the<br />

‘Galapagos of the North,’ to Indonesia’s Tana<br />

Toraja Trek for going beyond Bali’s beaches.<br />

The world’s largest B Corp certified travel<br />

company ensures all of its tours are led by<br />

local leaders who can guide travelers away<br />

from crowds. On a larger scale, Intrepid<br />

Travel also regularly makes changes to its itineraries<br />

and launches new products to introduce<br />

travelers to new communities in a sustainable<br />

way, aiming to alleviate the negative<br />

impacts of tourism while still spreading its<br />

economic benefit. There’s no reason travel<br />

can’t enrich local communities, instead of<br />

overwhelming them.<br />

Photos: Intrepid Travel<br />

Intrepid Travel’s global ‘Not Hot List’ includes:<br />

Dakhla, Morocco - Largely inaccessible until<br />

a couple of years ago, Dakhla’s white sand<br />

dunes, countryside and crystal clear beaches<br />

on the edge of the Sahara and off mainland<br />

Morocco are seriously off tourists’ radar. On<br />

the brand new Marrakech & Dakhla<br />

Adventure, spend the night at a traditional<br />

Bedouin camp and enjoy epic scenery, far<br />

from the busy streets of Marrakech. Enjoy<br />

renowned seafood straight from the catch<br />

and marvel at the beautiful Bahia de Dakhla<br />

lagoon.<br />

The Gambia - Gambia has been trending in<br />

Google search (+23%) and receives far fewer<br />

visitors than Africa hotspots like South Africa<br />

or Kenya. The smallest nation on the African<br />

mainland, countries don’t come much more<br />

compact and traversable than Gambia.<br />

The Haida Gwaii Islands - Known as the<br />

‘Galapagos of the North’ for its complex<br />

ecosystem and diverse wildlife, Canada’s<br />

most remote region – the Haida Gwaii – feels<br />

like the edge of the world. It’s also the ancestral<br />

home of Canada’s Haida First Nations<br />

people, who remain critical to sustaining the<br />

country’s north. Intrepid Travel has launched<br />

its Haida Gwaii Islands Expedition, where<br />

travelers can visit local villages that live in harmony<br />

with the pristine wilderness of Naikoon<br />

Provincial Park and can hear the First Peoples’<br />

stories of challenge and triumph during<br />

Canada’s National Indigenous Peoples<br />

Month.<br />

Moldova - This tiny country, sandwiched<br />

between Romania and Ukraine, only welcomes<br />

160,000 overnight visitors a year<br />

(according to the UNWTO), nearly the<br />

amount of visitors Croatia sees daily. On<br />

Moldova, Ukraine & Romania Explorer, try out<br />

Moldova's famous wine on a tour of Milestii<br />

Mici winery, home to the biggest wine cellar in<br />

the world with more than 120 miles of underground<br />

passages lined with around 2 million<br />

bottles. Access the breakaway republic of<br />

Transnistria, a ghost of the Soviet past, and<br />

marvel at Orheiul Vechi, a 14th century cave<br />

monastery and UNESCO site built inside a<br />

cliff.<br />

The Gambia Greenland Moldova


Sulawesi<br />

Nicaragua - After a period of political unrest,<br />

Nicaragua has seen a resurgence in tourism,<br />

enabling the return to the land of lakes and<br />

volcanoes, where nature is uninterrupted, the<br />

food is delicious and volcano boarding is a<br />

real slightly-scary-but-thrilling sport. On the<br />

new Best of Nicaragua itinerary, spend time at<br />

a local indigenous community on Ometepe<br />

Island, a lush, rainforest-filled island formed<br />

by two volcanos that rose from Lake<br />

Nicaragua. Learn about Nicaragua’s revolutionary<br />

past in bohemian Leon, stroll the colorful<br />

colonial streets of Granada, then head<br />

to Nicaragua’s Pacific coast for the sun, surf<br />

and laid-back vibes of San Juan del Sur.<br />

Northeast Cambodia - As of this year,<br />

Intrepid Travel removed Sihanoukville – what<br />

used to be a sleepy beach town and is now<br />

nearly unrecognizable due to overtourism –<br />

from all itineraries, instead choosing to visit<br />

lesser-known destinations within Cambodia.<br />

An untouched corner of the country, the<br />

Northeast region is home to lush forests,<br />

remote lakes and waterfalls and temples lesser<br />

known than Angkor Wat, but no less fascinating.<br />

On the new Cambodia Expedition:<br />

Elephants & Jungles, spend time observing<br />

elephants in their natural habitat with an<br />

active hike at the Elephant Valley Project, an<br />

initiative that puts elephants’ welfare and<br />

treatment first, rather than the tourist dollar.<br />

Sudan - Few people know that among vast<br />

stretches of sand dunes, Sudan holds some<br />

of the world’s most incredible archaeological<br />

sites, ancient ruins and resilient cultures.<br />

While President Trump included the country<br />

in last week’s travel ban, restricting travel for<br />

Sudanese citizens, the increased attention<br />

may actually spur interest in tourism.<br />

Following the previous Middle East travel<br />

bans, Intrepid Travel saw growth in the<br />

region, with travelers wanting to learn about<br />

the countries they continually hear about in<br />

the news and make their own decisions<br />

about them. On the new Northern Sudan<br />

Expedition, discover the remnants of great<br />

empires, explore ancient cities and necropolises,<br />

and encounter modern Sudan in<br />

souks, chai houses and nomadic settlements<br />

along the way.<br />

Sulawesi, Indonesia - Iconic treks like<br />

Everest Base Camp have long represented<br />

some of Intrepid Travel’s most popular itineraries,<br />

but those wanting to discover new<br />

places one step at a time can opt for quieter<br />

paths, like the Tana Toraja trek in Sulawesi.<br />

After all, there’s more to Indonesia’s archipelago<br />

of 17,000 islands than Bali’s beaches.<br />

On the new Sulawesi Expedition: Tana<br />

Toraja Trek, traverse dense bamboo forests<br />

and deep fertile valleys, stay in traditional<br />

villages, and boat past acres of emerald<br />

green rice paddies. Experience a day in the<br />

life of fishermen operating a community<br />

project in the village of Puntondo, learn<br />

about the importance of the marine ecosystem,<br />

and how this project is helping to save<br />

the coastline. <strong>Traveler</strong>s will even learn about<br />

the infamous Ma’nene death ritual, or the<br />

‘ceremony of cleaning corpses’ – a 900-<br />

year- old tradition where the Torajan people<br />

dig up and spend time with the dead.<br />

Tajikistan - Uzbekistan experienced +257%<br />

year-over-year growth making it the number<br />

one fastest growing destination for Intrepid<br />

Travel. With the ‘Stans going strong, Intrepid<br />

Travel predicts that Tajikistan could be the<br />

next destination in this region to surge. The<br />

allure lies in the heritage of the Silk Road<br />

and cities featuring crumbling reminders of<br />

Soviet influence. While political and<br />

military forces have battled over these<br />

regions, life in these isolated areas<br />

has changed little in the past centuries. On<br />

the new Tajikistan Discovery trip, travelers<br />

will spend five nights across Tajikistan's<br />

homestay network, where they’ll immerse<br />

themselves in the local traditions.<br />

19<br />

About Intrepid Travel<br />

Intrepid Travel is a global adventure travel company<br />

that has been taking travellers off the beaten<br />

track to discover the world's most amazing places<br />

for 30 years. The company offers more than 1,000<br />

trips in more than 120 countries and on every continent.<br />

Every trip is designed to truly experience<br />

local culture - to meet local people, try local food,<br />

take local transport and stay in local accommodation.<br />

A world leader in responsible travel, Intrepid’s<br />

award-winning tour leaders, small group sizes and<br />

included activities mean they offer travellers great<br />

value for money.<br />

www.intrepidtravel.com<br />

<strong>American</strong> <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveler</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2020</strong>


20<br />

The Mont Blanc Circuit with Boundless Journeys<br />

by Olivia Balsinger<br />

Our personal reasons for deciding to<br />

circumnavigate Mont Blanc were as<br />

diverse as the hiking group itself.<br />

One was using the physical challenge of the<br />

hike as a reminder he is more than a successful<br />

entrepreneur. Two were already best<br />

friends but wanted their girl-time bonding in<br />

the pristine wilderness. And me? For me, it<br />

has been an especially draining year--physically,<br />

mentally, and especially emotionally.<br />

My best friend had died in a gory car accident<br />

just months prior. I knew that in order to<br />

fully digest the complex emotions surrounding<br />

such a sudden tragedy, I needed to<br />

escape the noise pollution of society and<br />

think clearly once again. And so to the<br />

mountains, I fled.<br />

Whatever our reasons for signing up, one<br />

thing was clear: We all hoped the crisp late<br />

August air of the Alps would be therapeutic<br />

on our circuit of Mont Blanc, Europe's largest<br />

mountain at 15,770 feet, with tour operator<br />

Boundless Journeys.<br />

Little did we know it would provide much<br />

more. The journey of our motley crew of five<br />

strangers began in the quaint French ski town<br />

and official base of Mont Blanc, Chamonix,<br />

where we first shared our goals and inspirations<br />

for the journey over cheese fondue. Our<br />

guide, Irene, assured us that no matter personal<br />

abilities, we would succeed and complete<br />

the circuit as a group. And before we<br />

had time to second guess our strength, the<br />

next morning, we were off.<br />

The Tour de Mont Blanc, a stunning circuit<br />

through Switzerland, France, and Italy, is one<br />

of the world's greatest inn-to-inn hikes and<br />

adventures. I knew it would be a challenging<br />

physical journey, but I had underestimated<br />

the incredible melange of culture we would<br />

be immersed in as well. As we meandered<br />

through dramatic landscapes shaped by hillsides<br />

and carved by river, as we snaked our<br />

way from village to village, we noticed<br />

changes in language, cuisine, architecture<br />

and culture. In Switzerland, our hiking was<br />

often in rhythm to cowbells noisily dinging in<br />

the field. In the medieval town of<br />

Courmayeur, Italy, we enjoyed gelato and<br />

pizza as our rewards for the day, meandering<br />

the stone streets of the city. France, of course,<br />

meant cheese aplenty--Raclette, Reblochon,<br />

and Beaufort cheese, oh my! We seldom had<br />

connections to the outside world as cell data<br />

and WiFi were scarce. Instead, our group<br />

bonded through the literal highs and lows,<br />

through moments where we couldn't imagine<br />

hiking that foreboding hill in the distance to<br />

those where we looked back in awe of what<br />

we had accomplished.<br />

Though I was initially apprehensive about<br />

joining a tour group for the adventure (in my<br />

head, I'm much more Bear Grylls-esque than<br />

reality), I soon understood why joining a tour<br />

group was beneficial. Even before the hike<br />

commenced, Boundless Journeys was<br />

preparing me with packing lists, exercise suggestions,<br />

and reading materials. Our leader,<br />

a Mont Blanc veteran and environmentalist,<br />

was an encyclopedia of information--from<br />

the villages, we would hike through to various<br />

types of vegetation, Irene's knowledge<br />

was a constant aid.<br />

A bittersweet end to our communal journey<br />

nine days later as we arrived back to<br />

Chamonix, with sore muscles, expanded perspectives,<br />

and lifelong memories. The challenge<br />

and the beauty of the mountain was<br />

now a part of each of us--and no matter the<br />

reason for joining the program, we all<br />

arrived back changed. Mission accomplished.<br />

www.boundlessjourneys.com<br />

<strong>American</strong> <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveler</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2020</strong>


Finding Pura Vida in Puntarenas<br />

by Olivia Balsinger<br />

The slogan most synonymous with<br />

verdant Costa Rica is "Pura Vida."<br />

Directly translated, this catchy<br />

phrase means "Pure Life." This Central<br />

<strong>American</strong> country is well-known for many<br />

regions - from lavish spa getaways deep in<br />

Monteverde Cloud Forest to the postcardworthy<br />

Volcano Arenal. However, there still<br />

remain areas of untouched paradise, such<br />

as Puntarenas, located on the county’s<br />

northwestern coast and hugging the Gulf of<br />

Nicoya. And, suffice to say, in an era when<br />

most everything feels inorganic and too stimulating,<br />

Puntarenas sincerely exemplifies<br />

"Pura Vida."<br />

Of course, one reason why Puntarenas<br />

remains so untouched is because it hasn't<br />

been fully discovered by tourists yet. The<br />

area's importance, however, dates back centuries<br />

as a highly trafficked fishing port.<br />

Today, you may recognize the name in association<br />

with cruises, as this is a favorite stop<br />

for large passenger boats. But Puntarenas<br />

can easily become its own trip and getting to<br />

this unspoiled piece of paradise is simple.<br />

San Jose, Costa Rica's capital, is only about<br />

two hours away, and flights from all over the<br />

world arrive daily. More than likely, your first<br />

stop visiting this area of the country will be<br />

the town of Puntarenas, with a population of<br />

just over 100,000 and a culture that spans<br />

centuries. While you can walk the seaside<br />

promenade and observe colonial architecture,<br />

which is a direct tribute to its past, you<br />

can also explore the forward-thinking innovation<br />

here, such as Casa de la Culture, a<br />

once dirty jail that now hosts an array of cultural<br />

performances all year. For those interested<br />

in marine life, Puntarenas is also home<br />

to Costa Rica's sole aquarium, which dually<br />

educates visitors and assists in the rehabilitation<br />

of injured marine life.<br />

Once you've gotten a taste of the varied<br />

species in the area, you're going to want to<br />

explore the real marine life of this region as<br />

well-and with an abundance of unspoiled<br />

wilderness surrounding Puntarenas, that<br />

shouldn't be difficult. Natuwa Wildlife<br />

Sanctuary, just minutes outside the city, provides<br />

homes for some of Costa Rica's fleeting<br />

wildlife, such as tapirs, spider monkeys, marmosets,<br />

and jaguars. Of course, spying a<br />

sloth, the curious and cuddly creature native<br />

to the region, is undoubtedly a highlight.<br />

For those in the market for an active vacation,<br />

Puntarenas is the answer. For example,<br />

a short boat ride to Isla Tortuga brings you<br />

to crystal clear water optimal for snorkeling,<br />

diving, jet-skiing, or simply lounging. ATV'ing<br />

through the jungles and virgin beaches of<br />

Puntarenas with companies such as Pura<br />

Vida Expeditions is an excellent way to<br />

explore the entirely uninhabited part of the<br />

region.<br />

The Puntarenas region is special because it<br />

caters to all sorts of budgets accommodation<br />

wise. Whether you want to sleep under the<br />

sparkling stars without light pollution or<br />

enjoy the amenities of a boutique beachfront<br />

resort such as Tambor Tropical stunning teak<br />

wood and comfortable beds, the possibilities<br />

are as unique as the region's topography.<br />

www.visitcostarica.com


24<br />

Topping your Last Visit to Tokyo<br />

Article and photography by Steve Gillick<br />

In the spirit of adventure, it’s always a<br />

pleasurable challenge to return to a<br />

favourite destination with the goal of<br />

indulging in brand new experiences.<br />

Tokyo is perfectly suited to this quest for ‘the<br />

new’. In fact, only a few days after the opening<br />

of the new Shibuya Scramble Square, we<br />

stood on the Sky Stage, 230 meters (755 feet)<br />

above the famous multi-directional pedestrian<br />

crossing (the Shibuya Scramble), under a big,<br />

beautiful blue sky. This open-air observation<br />

deck affords magnificent 360 degree<br />

panoramic views of the City of Tokyo. A philosophical<br />

thought, etched in glass, emphasizes<br />

unity and commonality for all those who stand<br />

on the ‘stage’:<br />

Shibuya at your feet - Tokyo all around you –<br />

both connected to the world beyond. At the<br />

center of everything you stand, one with the<br />

sky.<br />

One floor down in the Sky Gallery, visitors<br />

sidle up to the windows, as close as they can,<br />

to look straight down to street level. Interactive<br />

art exhibits reinforce the theme of one sky<br />

uniting visitors from around the world. For<br />

those who have visited Tokyo’s other observation<br />

decks (Tokyo Tower, Tokyo Skytree, and<br />

more), the Sky Stage is really the topping!<br />

For a different kind of interaction with nature,<br />

the Nezu Museum is soothing to the soul.<br />

Featuring the fine art collection of the philanthropist<br />

Kaichiro Nezu, the building was<br />

designed by architect Kengo Kuma to complement<br />

and emphasize the natural beauty of the<br />

area. Visitors enter along a bamboo and<br />

stone pathway and then after appreciating the<br />

art inside the Museum, they stroll through the<br />

beautiful treed, green garden of walkways,<br />

ponds, statues and lanterns. It’s a total escape<br />

from the sights and sounds of the busy city<br />

and it works!<br />

In Gotokuji, just outside the city of Tokyo (but<br />

still part of Tokyo Prefecture), travelers pounce<br />

on the idea of visiting the Cat Temple. Just<br />

beyond the three-storied pagoda, they visit a<br />

shrine where a small statue of Kannon, the<br />

Goddess of Mercy, is surrounded by thousands<br />

of ‘Maneki-Neko’; figurines of white<br />

cats with red ears and collars, who raise a<br />

paw to beckon or ‘wave-in’ good luck. A 16th<br />

century legend recalls that a powerful feudal<br />

lord, caught in a violent storm, was invited by<br />

a cat to take shelter in the temple. Now visitors<br />

purchase cat figurines and place them at<br />

the shrine in hopes of having their wishes fulfilled.<br />

And for those looking to admire pagodas<br />

there are five-storied pagodas in Asakusa<br />

and Ueno Park as well as the beautiful<br />

Ikegamihonmonji Pagoda about 30 minutes<br />

outside the city of Tokyo. Peaceful experiences<br />

continue a few train stops away at Senzokuike<br />

Park with a walk around the lake, sightings of<br />

the rare Hummingbird Moth, and birding<br />

opportunities that include Great Blue Herons,<br />

Black-crowned Night Herons, flocks of feral,<br />

lime-green, Rose-ringed Parakeets, and the<br />

Kawasemi or ‘river cicada’, also known as the<br />

Common Kingfisher.<br />

And these were only some of the highlights of<br />

a return visit to Tokyo that included first-time<br />

visits to the Okutama nature area and the<br />

amazing volcanic scenery on Miyakejima,<br />

one of the Izu Islands. With so many activities<br />

in Tokyo Prefecture, it’s actually very easy to<br />

‘top’ your last visit with new, innovative, exciting<br />

and rewarding adventures.<br />

www.gotokyo.org<br />

<strong>American</strong> <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveler</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2020</strong>


26<br />

Broadway Review: Ain’t Too Proud tells the story of The Temptations<br />

by Mike Cohen<br />

Last spring I saw Motown the Musical at<br />

Place des Arts in Montreal, the<br />

<strong>American</strong> dream story of Motown<br />

founder Berry Gordy’s journey from featherweight<br />

boxer to the heavyweight music mogul<br />

who launched the careers of Diana Ross,<br />

Michael Jackson, Smokey Robinson and<br />

many more. I loved every minute of it. So<br />

when I visited New York City recently, I was<br />

naturally drawn to Ain’t Too Proud: The Life<br />

and Times of the Temptations. It won a 2019<br />

Tony Award for Best Choreography and had<br />

12 nominations.<br />

The Temptations are an <strong>American</strong> vocal<br />

group who released a series of successful singles<br />

and albums with Motown during the<br />

1960s and 70s. Featuring five male vocalists<br />

and dancers, the group formed in 1960 in<br />

Detroit, Michigan under the name The Elgins<br />

and gave us such memorable hits as My Girl,<br />

<strong>American</strong> <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveler</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2020</strong><br />

Ain't Too Proud to Beg, I Wish It Would Rain,<br />

Treat Her Like a Lady, Just My Imagination<br />

(Running Away with Me) and For Once In My<br />

Life, What Becomes of the Broken Hearted<br />

and more. They earned three Grammy<br />

Awards.<br />

Otis Williams is the last living member of the<br />

Temptations. His book about the group is the<br />

basis for the Broadway show. Williams in fact<br />

continues to perform, using the Temptations<br />

name.<br />

Ain’t Too Proud, currently playing at the<br />

Imperial Theatre on West 45th Street until at<br />

least US Thanksgiving Weekend <strong>2020</strong>, is the<br />

electrifying new musical that follows The<br />

Temptations' extraordinary journey from the<br />

streets of Detroit to the Rock & Roll Hall of<br />

Fame. With their signature dance moves and<br />

unmistakable harmonies, they rose to the top<br />

of the charts creating an amazing 42 Top 10<br />

hits with 14 reaching number one. The rest is<br />

history — how they met, the groundbreaking<br />

heights they hit and how personal and political<br />

conflicts threatened to tear the group<br />

apart as the United States fell into civil unrest.<br />

Tony Award nominee Derrick Baskin portrays<br />

Otis Williams and is the glue to the show. He<br />

narrates the entire history of the Temptations<br />

from the opening number until the conclusion.<br />

Before walking into the theatre I simply<br />

knew the songs which made the Temptations<br />

so successful, but this is a true history lesson<br />

and it pulls no punches. There have been 24<br />

members of the Temptations since this group<br />

was first established. Williams had to continually<br />

make the hard decisions and drop<br />

members who were not comporting themselves<br />

properly.<br />

After breaking house records at both Berkeley<br />

Rep and The Kennedy Center, this musical is<br />

written by three‐time Obie Award winner<br />

Dominique Morisseau, directed by two‐time<br />

Tony Award winner Des McAnuff (Jersey<br />

Boys), and featuring choreography by Tony<br />

nominee Sergio Trujillo (Jersey Boys, On Your<br />

Feet).<br />

www.ainttooproudmusical.com


27<br />

Carolines on Broadway is New York’s finest Comedy Club<br />

by Mike Cohen<br />

For years I have walked by Carolines on<br />

Broadway promising myself that I<br />

would one day check out this world<br />

famous 300 seat comedy club. Well I finally<br />

did so, booking a dinner and show package<br />

on a Saturday evening.<br />

I arrived at 5:45 pm, checked in and was<br />

shown to a nice table in the club where veteran<br />

server Alfred took my order – some crispy<br />

fresh cut zucchini chips to start and a main<br />

course of grilled salmon and roasted potatoes.<br />

The menu has a nice variety of choices;<br />

appetizers such as calamari, nachos, shrimp<br />

cocktail and onion rings to a selection of salads<br />

and sandwiches, pastas, chicken and<br />

steaks. For dessert you can chose from strawberry<br />

shortcake, apple tart and chocolate<br />

cake, all served with ice cream. Of course<br />

there is a full liquor and cocktail menu.<br />

Carolines first opened as a small cabaret club<br />

in the New York’s Chelsea neighborhood in<br />

1982. Owner Caroline Hirsch, a lifelong<br />

comedy fan, soon began booking comedians.<br />

The comedy acts – which included now legendary<br />

performers like Jerry Seinfeld, Tim<br />

Allen, Billy Crystal, Rosie O’Donnell and Jay<br />

Leno – were a tremendous success.<br />

Located in the heart of Times Square,<br />

Carolines on Broadway presents the very best<br />

live comedy entertainment seven nights a<br />

week. Just steps from many of Broadway’s<br />

most well-known theatres, Carolines on<br />

Broadway provides the same quality entertainment<br />

that is customary on New York’s legendary<br />

Great White Way. On the night I went<br />

the headliner was Sinbad, who has starred in<br />

numerous TV shows and motion pictures.<br />

Today, Carolines on Broadway continues to<br />

hold center stage in Times Square as one of<br />

New York City’s most popular and enduring<br />

hotspots and as the city’s only genuine nightclub.<br />

The club is a New York institution and<br />

was one of the cornerstones in the revitalization<br />

of the vibrant and bustling Times Square<br />

district. In addition to presenting such top<br />

headlining comedians, the 300 plus seat club<br />

also features emerging talent, live podcasts,<br />

and improv and sketch comedy, as well as<br />

playing host to countless large-scale fundraising<br />

events and high profile benefits.<br />

For the dinner and show package, food is a la<br />

carte. You do receive priority seating in the<br />

showroom when you have dinner before the<br />

show in the supper lounge. Just arrive at the<br />

time of your reservation and you will receive<br />

your tickets to the show. I had a delicious serving<br />

of grilled salmon and an equally impressive<br />

fried zucchini chips appetizer. If, however,<br />

you miss your dinner reservation before the<br />

show, they will not be able to hold the<br />

reserved seats for you in the showroom and<br />

you will be sat first come, first serve.<br />

The theatre was an easy 10 minute walk from<br />

my favorite place to stay in New York City, the<br />

historic Algonquin Hotel on 44th Street near<br />

6th Avenue. See more on the Algonquin in<br />

our ‘Stay & Play section on page 52.<br />

www.carolines.com<br />

<strong>American</strong> <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveler</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2020</strong>


28<br />

Spotlight on Kiev<br />

by Daniel Smajovits<br />

The Motherland Monument weighs in<br />

at 560 tons, stands 102 meters tall<br />

and towers over Kiev. Sword and<br />

shield in hand, upon first glance from the<br />

plane or car, this monument all but confirms<br />

every stereotype you have about the city:<br />

you’re visiting a place still shrouded by the<br />

iron curtain.<br />

Or so you think.<br />

If there is any city in the world that is in the<br />

midst of a renaissance, it’s Ukraine’s bustling<br />

capital. Less than five years removed from the<br />

Maidan Revolution, the third such upheaval<br />

since the fall of the Soviet Union, the aura in<br />

the city is that it finally turned a corner.<br />

<strong>American</strong> <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveler</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2020</strong><br />

First time visitors to Kiev should opt to stay<br />

near Khreschatyk Street, which like Broadway,<br />

runs through the heart of the city. The street<br />

itself is lined with hundreds of stores, restaurants<br />

and bars and even becomes a pedestrian<br />

thoroughfare on weekends, where families<br />

gather well into the evening to enjoy Kiev’s<br />

lively and family friendly nightlife.<br />

With so much to see and experience, book a<br />

walking tour with Your Kiev Tours. Started as a<br />

passion project by Eva Vik and her three<br />

friends, the blossoming walking tour has<br />

become the #1 rated tour on Trip Advisor.<br />

Spending a morning with Eva will introduce<br />

you to all the major and even some hidden<br />

sights of the Ukrainian capital. Her engaging<br />

and fun style, which makes you feel like you’re<br />

walking with a long-lost friend, will serve as<br />

the perfect foundation for the rest of tour trip.<br />

While Eva will introduce you to some<br />

Ukrainian food and drink, ensure to save<br />

some room for Kyiv Tasty Tours. Going<br />

beyond the traditional fare, this food tour<br />

turns the tables on both local cuisine and<br />

restaurants. From the city’s vibrant market to<br />

a hidden restaurant in the heart of<br />

Independence Square, this tour will make you<br />

long for Ukrainian food well after you’ve<br />

landed at home.<br />

For history buffs, as one of the oldest cities in<br />

Eastern Europe, Kiev and its surroundings is<br />

home to a number of the continent’s most<br />

unique museums. The Museum of Corruption<br />

is appropriately located in Mezhyhirya<br />

Residence, the one-time home of President<br />

Victor Yanukovych before he fled the country<br />

following the Maidan Revolution. While closer<br />

to the city centre, The National Museum of the<br />

History of Ukraine in the Second <strong>World</strong> War,<br />

home to the aforementioned Motherland<br />

Monument, allows you to step into the tumultuous<br />

history of the country and life behind the<br />

Iron Curtain and more.<br />

As no trip to Kiev will be complete without<br />

sampling some of the city’s famous nightlife<br />

and whether you’re solo, with friends or with<br />

your significant other, Kate from Sights of Kiev<br />

is your perfect guide. Beginning at 9:00 p.m,<br />

Kate’s nightlife tour goes well beyond the traditional<br />

bars to a number of exclusive - and<br />

sometimes hidden - spots known only to<br />

locals. From the best local spirits and beers<br />

with some fantastic live music in between, an<br />

evening with Kate will seem like you’re back in<br />

college with your roommate, enjoying a night<br />

on the town, making this tour the ideal way to<br />

wrap up your fantastic trip.<br />

www.traveltoukraine.org


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C o m e W i t h U s & S e e T h e W o r l d!


30<br />

A Journey of the Senses<br />

AAt the crossroads of Europe and<br />

Asia is Istanbul, with a rich history<br />

spanning over two thousand<br />

years. Strategically located on the<br />

Bosphorus Strait, Istanbul is a vibrant city<br />

where east and west meet to create this<br />

unique cultural capital. Istanbul is home to<br />

an estimated 15 million inhabitants, built<br />

on seven hills, and topped by the minarets<br />

of over 3,000 mosques including the worldfamous<br />

Blue Mosque and Hagia Sofia.<br />

Mouth-watering tastes worth travelling for<br />

It is the food that leaves the greatest<br />

impression. Traditional Anatolian staples<br />

such as doughy manti (dumpling), freshly<br />

squeezed juices sold on every street corner<br />

and sesame covered simit rolls, perfectly<br />

accompanied by Turkish çay (tea). The<br />

smell of fresh fish or rich Turkish coffee are<br />

often in the air.<br />

Take flight in a hot air balloon at sunset<br />

On everyone’s bucket list should be a hot<br />

air balloon flight at sunrise. People travel<br />

to Cappadocia from all over the world to<br />

take part in this spectacular sight of hot air<br />

balloons making their gentle flight over the<br />

valleys and fairy chimneys, lit up by the rising<br />

sun. Accommodation ranges from<br />

cool and rustic cave hotels to elegant and<br />

luxurious houses. Traditional Turkish baths<br />

(hamams) in which to relax and unwind is<br />

also a highlight. During your stay, venture<br />

into underground cities, cave churches and<br />

the outdoor museums to learn more about<br />

the history of this special place.<br />

Cappadocia is also famous for its wine,<br />

and a must experience element of your<br />

meal.<br />

The colourful Aegean coastal city of Izmir<br />

In Western Anatolia on a bay of turquoise<br />

water is the Aegean coastal city of Izmir,<br />

where archaeological sites remind visitors<br />

of a rich history set against a backdrop of<br />

the hilltop Kadifekale castle. Spot one of<br />

the most famous landmarks of Izmir, the<br />

Clock Tower designed by French architect<br />

Raymond Charles Pere dating back to<br />

1901. To enjoy the view and save your<br />

legs from the 155 steps connecting city<br />

streets, use the public elevator known as<br />

Asansör. Another alternative is the modern<br />

European-style quarter of Karşıyaka which<br />

also offers excellent sea views. Notable<br />

nearby highlights are the enchanting<br />

ancient ruins of Ephesus, one of the Seven<br />

Wonders of the Ancient <strong>World</strong>. The nearby<br />

village of Çeşme is a charming gastronomic<br />

paradise with its whitewashed houses<br />

and blue painted windows.<br />

Turkish food in Izmir has many influences<br />

and flavours for every palate. Izmir meatballs,<br />

called köfte, are enjoyed across<br />

Turkey, made lovingly with local spices and<br />

served in a tasty tomato sauce. Try local<br />

specialty Kumru, the perfect on-the-go<br />

snack of sausage, cheese and tomato<br />

served in bread, or the delicious pastry<br />

Boyoz, which can only be found in Izmir<br />

and should not be missed!


The luxurious ancient port city of Bodrum<br />

Rugged, rolling mountains meet the shores<br />

of the crystal blue Aegean Sea in the small<br />

city of Bodrum. The Aegean coastal city is<br />

spread across a double bay, mixing<br />

ancient and modern history. The city is<br />

home to the ancient Greek city of<br />

Halicarnassus, site of the Tomb of<br />

Mausolus, one of the Seven Wonders of<br />

the Ancient <strong>World</strong>. Along the coastline is<br />

the well-preserved medieval Bodrum<br />

Castle which offers superb views and is<br />

home to the Museum of Underwater<br />

Archaeology.<br />

Renowned for its unique "sugar cube"<br />

houses, Bodrum is one of Turkey’s gems<br />

and is fast becoming the first choice for<br />

holidaymakers the world over.<br />

Escape to small villages or enjoy the<br />

extravagance of its many five-star hotels<br />

and bustling nightlife, Bodrum is the place<br />

where the green of the forest meets the<br />

clear blue waters of the Aegean Sea.<br />

Make sure your flight is part<br />

of the vacation<br />

Vacation time is precious, so make every<br />

minute count by starting your trip the<br />

moment you step onto the plane. The<br />

award-winning products and services of<br />

Turkish Airlines’ Business Class provide an<br />

unparalleled experience with the utmost<br />

elegance. Prior to take off, passengers can<br />

benefit from extra baggage allowance, priority<br />

check-in and boarding, and access to<br />

Turkish Airlines Lounges.<br />

Relax in exclusive seats, with massage<br />

functions, that convert your seat into a 188<br />

cm flat bed. Delight in gourmet dishes prepared<br />

and cooked to your taste by Flying<br />

Chefs, and enjoy comfort kits to maximize<br />

your wellness on-board. Business Class<br />

also offers a cutting-edge in-flight entertainment<br />

system, films in different languages,<br />

a wide assortment of audiobooks,<br />

a great range of music and much<br />

more. It boasts award-winning catering<br />

designed for any palate where you can<br />

enjoy international cuisine and local<br />

Turkish specialties such as ‘pide’ and<br />

‘börek’ with fresh fruit juices and tea.<br />

Going Further With<br />

Turkish Airlines<br />

Glowing reviews and exceptional<br />

food are the order of the day for<br />

this up-and-coming airline!<br />

Part of the Star Alliance network, Turkish airlines<br />

(THY) offers service to Canadians from<br />

Toronto and Montreal, and connections to<br />

destinations all over the world from their hub<br />

in Istanbul.<br />

Building on their international reputation, THY<br />

has been climbing the ranks as a top provider<br />

and doing very well in Canada.<br />

With 321 destinations, and adding new ones<br />

at a rapid pace, THY welcome travellers with<br />

smiles and a friendly hello, though often with<br />

a charming accent!<br />

Their aircraft include A330s, A340s, B777s,<br />

B737-800s and B727-800s, all well maintained<br />

and laid-out with the customer in<br />

mind. Each section is designed with creature<br />

comforts taking front and centre. The seats<br />

throughout the plane are comfortable and the<br />

facilities are kept impeccably clean and<br />

organized. Most Business Class passengers<br />

can expect either fully lie-flat seats or angled<br />

lie-flat seats that brings relaxation to a higher<br />

level.<br />

Comfort Class is Turkish Airlines' premium<br />

economy section is highlighted by slightly<br />

larger seats configured in two-by-three-bytwo<br />

rows, a large video screen and entertainment<br />

system with an iPod outlet and a laptop<br />

power outlet for each seat.<br />

Even passengers traveling in Economy Class<br />

can enjoy an above average trip, as all passengers<br />

enjoy the famed THY complimentary<br />

meal. Though multi-course meals are provided<br />

in Business Class on extended range<br />

flights, all passengers are treated to the<br />

award winning food served on board.<br />

Considering that THY deals with one of the<br />

world’s biggest (maybe the biggest) catering<br />

service and are partners with Do & Co., there<br />

is no surprise in the quality THY can offer!<br />

www.turkishairlines.com<br />

31<br />

Whether you are enjoying the wonders of<br />

Turkey for several weeks or only a few<br />

days as part of the Turkish Airlines<br />

Stopover Program, Turkish hospitality and<br />

wonder awaits.<br />

Are you ready to Widen Your <strong>World</strong>?<br />

<strong>American</strong> <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveler</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2020</strong>


G Adventures Launches Five New Planeterra Projects to Empower Women<br />

New ‘Project 100’ community tourism projects will positively impact more than 2,800 women<br />

tively impact women, youth and Indigenous<br />

people. The next five Project 100 projects are:<br />

Berracas de la 13 - Comuna 13<br />

Medellin, Colombia<br />

Once a city under the control of groups loyal<br />

to Pablo Escobar, Medellin was rife with crime,<br />

violence, drugs and political unrest. Much has<br />

changed since then, with the city now a popular<br />

tourist destination and regarded as one<br />

of the most innovative cities in the world. Even<br />

with a decrease in crime, there are still barriers<br />

which exist for those that live there however.<br />

Berracas de la 13 was created by a group<br />

of women with the goal of empowering<br />

women and youth in their community. With<br />

Planeterra’s support, Berracas de la 13 has<br />

improved its restaurant, developed a local<br />

tour and meal service and grown local infrastructure<br />

to create a sustainable income<br />

stream which welcomes travellers looking to<br />

learn from local guides, purchase unique<br />

handicrafts and try new food. The experience<br />

is available on the nine-day Colombia<br />

Express tour.<br />

TWE - Together We Earn<br />

Kerala, India<br />

OOn International Women’s Day,<br />

March 8, <strong>2020</strong>, community<br />

tourism pioneer G Adventures<br />

and its non-profit partner Planeterra<br />

announced five new projects which put a<br />

focus on empowering women and their communities.<br />

More than 2,800 women will benefit<br />

from the 3,000 travellers expected to visit<br />

these projects annually.<br />

With a strong focus on empowering and supporting<br />

women, the new projects include a<br />

visit to a cultural and craft experience in<br />

Jerusalem where stories are shared and local<br />

handicrafts are showcased, as well as a stop<br />

in Kerala, India where 10 local women create<br />

community through hospitality and traditional<br />

food.<br />

The new projects are part of the Project 100<br />

initiative, a commitment to have 100<br />

Planeterra projects built into G Adventures<br />

tours by the end of <strong>2020</strong>. With these projects,<br />

the total number now included in the company’s<br />

tours has reached 85, just three-months<br />

into <strong>2020</strong>. Each year, more than 100,000<br />

travellers visit Planeterra projects impacting<br />

the lives of more than 60,000 local people.<br />

Jamie Sweeting, President of Planeterra<br />

Foundation and Vice President of Responsible<br />

Travel at G Adventures, says these projects<br />

support G Adventures’ purpose of changing<br />

people’s lives through travel, while empowering<br />

women, youth and Indigenous communities.<br />

“Supporting the local communities we visit is<br />

at the forefront of everything we do and these<br />

new projects continue our mission of turning<br />

travel into impact. I’m proud of projects like<br />

these that put the spotlight on the women in<br />

these communities and all the amazing work<br />

they’re doing,” says Sweeting.<br />

All G Adventures and Planeterra projects are<br />

selected to ensure the largest benefit to the<br />

local communities based on traveller numbers.<br />

There is a focus on projects which posi-<br />

There’s no doubt incredible strides have been<br />

made for women’s empowerment in Kerala,<br />

which now has the highest rates of women<br />

empowerment based on education and<br />

health indicators. The state, however, still<br />

struggles with women’s participation in the<br />

labour force – agriculture is the main source<br />

of income for families and women often don’t<br />

have the opportunity to gain skills and find<br />

employment beyond the fields they work in.<br />

With Planeterra’s support, TWE (Together We<br />

Earn) was able to bring its women’s empowerment<br />

to the next level by providing tangible<br />

skills-training opportunities, a guaranteed<br />

customer base of travellers and a sustainable<br />

income source. This was accomplished by<br />

investing in training and the construction of a<br />

kitchen in rural Alleppey – used for hospitality<br />

training and hosting international travellers.<br />

Travellers can visit and experience this project<br />

on the seven-day National Geographic<br />

Journeys South India: Explore Kerala tour.


33<br />

Domari Culture & Craft Experience<br />

Jerusalem, Israel<br />

The Dom community in Jerusalem faces regular<br />

discrimination due to not being fully integrated<br />

into either Israeli or Palestinian societies.<br />

The Domari Community Centre was<br />

created as a place where Dom women and<br />

children could be supported and provided<br />

vocational training while gaining the confidence<br />

and independence to thrive. Planeterra<br />

has supported the Domari Society of Gypsies<br />

by helping to create a tourism experience for<br />

G Adventures travellers – traditional food is<br />

served, cultural stories are shared and local<br />

handicrafts are showcased to help further<br />

positively impact the community. Travellers<br />

can visit this project while on the 15-day<br />

Jordan and Israel Adventure tour from<br />

Amman to Jerusalem.<br />

Shedia Home - Athens, Greece<br />

Homelessness continues to be a significant<br />

social issue in Greece with youth unemployment<br />

surpassing 50%. Shedia Home is a notfor-profit<br />

organization working to employ and<br />

empower those experiencing homelessness<br />

and social exclusion in Athens. More than<br />

150 people have been provided the opportunity<br />

to earn an income to cover their basic<br />

needs on a daily basis. In fact, 43 individuals<br />

now have homes thanks to their connection<br />

with Shedia. Planeterra partnered with the<br />

organization to provide valuable sustainable<br />

income for its programs – bringing travellers<br />

to the brand new Shedia Home, which features<br />

a cafe, educational talk from one of the<br />

Shedia’s guides currently experiencing homelessness<br />

and the option to join a tour of<br />

Athens which “makes the invisible (homeless),<br />

visible.” The 15-day Best of Greece tour from<br />

Athens to Santorini includes visits to Shedia<br />

Home.<br />

Maldives Plastic Program<br />

Malé, Maldives<br />

Pollution of the oceans directly impacts the<br />

Maldives, which are made up of 99% water<br />

and only one per cent land. Without the proper<br />

infrastructure or awareness for proper recycling,<br />

the country’s imported plastic items<br />

sometimes end up thrown in the oceans or on<br />

land. Partnering with local travel company<br />

Voyages, Planeterra has now integrated plastic<br />

pick-ups into all G Adventures tours traveling<br />

through the Maldives. Planeterra provides<br />

the equipment necessary for travellers to<br />

engage in plastic clean-ups on beaches, with<br />

the goal of mitigating tonnes of plastic waste<br />

from ending up in the ocean. A local nonprofit<br />

also assists in the processing of the collected<br />

plastic to be used for upcycling in countries<br />

which have the proper infrastructure to do so.<br />

The Maldives Plastic Program can be experienced<br />

on the eight-day Maldives Island<br />

Hopping trip.<br />

www.gadventures.com/aboutus/responsible-travel<br />

<strong>American</strong> <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveler</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2020</strong>


34<br />

Tropical<br />

Tidbits<br />

by Sue C Travel<br />

Bahamas bounces back with solar energy<br />

plans and new investments<br />

Though there’s still much work to be done<br />

to get the islands affected by Hurricane<br />

Dorian back to ‘normal’, they are embracing<br />

the rebuild as an opportunity to do<br />

things differently. One way they are doing<br />

that is by looking seriously to solar powered<br />

“micro-grids” for energy, in fact the goal is<br />

to produce 30% of Bahamas energy from<br />

renewable sources by 2030. Royal<br />

Caribbean has also taken a keen interest in<br />

getting Grand Bahama back on the map<br />

quickly and have announced a $300 million<br />

investment in Freeport in tandem with<br />

new partner Holistica Destinations. Plans to<br />

update and expand the Freeport cruise terminal<br />

with a project called Harbour Village<br />

will include new visitor attractions including<br />

multiple shopping and dining venues,<br />

beach areas, excursion opportunities and<br />

more. They have also purchased the Grand<br />

Lucayan resort on the island and will turn it<br />

into a showcase 526-room hotel with a<br />

shopping village, spa and wellness center,<br />

a massive water and adventure theme<br />

park, and a 40,000-square-foot convention<br />

center. The new projects are slated to<br />

be finished winter of 2022.<br />

www.bahamas.com<br />

New luxury Bahamas hideaway on<br />

South Andros<br />

You might have already seen this unique<br />

property being built on the pristine<br />

Bahamian island of South Andros if you’re<br />

a fan of HGTV’s Island of Bryan television<br />

series chronicling one couple’s quest to<br />

turn an abandoned hotel into a new luxury<br />

resort. Now, their dream is a reality with the<br />

opening of the Caerula Mar Club, a visionary-driven<br />

oasis of sublime tropical escape.<br />

The couple took great care to ensure that it<br />

was built in the most sustainable manner<br />

possible, and by only welcoming families<br />

with children over the age of 12, they can<br />

ensure it remains a peaceful retreat for<br />

those seeking romance. The boutique<br />

upscale collection of accommodations<br />

includes swanky clubhouse suites and private<br />

stand-alone villas, and the island is<br />

surrounded by the world’s third largest barrier<br />

reef and the greatest number of “blue<br />

hole” caves that offer superb diving and<br />

snorkeling ops.<br />

www.caerulamar.com


ToursByLocals is a genius concept<br />

I just happened upon this fab Canadian<br />

owned company ToursByLocals recently,<br />

and I love what they do. They supply wellvetted<br />

local tour guides to create personal<br />

private tours for you in a gazillion destinations<br />

around the world. And yes, they are<br />

offered in just about every island in the<br />

Caribbean chain, and all throughout Latin<br />

America, too. Learning about the culture,<br />

attractions, and history through local eyes<br />

is the best way to get to know a new destination,<br />

and you are welcome to advise<br />

them on what you’re interested in most if<br />

you don’t like their suggested tour. Maybe<br />

you want to beach hop to the best snorkel<br />

sites, do a local foodie trail, or go hiking in<br />

secret spots… the choice is yours, and they<br />

can also accommodate those with limited<br />

mobility if you ask ahead. Ideal for cruise<br />

visitors seeking to avoid those big crowded<br />

junket excursions, too.<br />

www.toursbylocals.com<br />

Secrets St. Martin now open<br />

After a $63,000,000 USD renovation of<br />

the former RIU resort on lovely Anse Marcel<br />

Beach on the French side of the island,<br />

Secrets® St. Martin Resort & Spa opened its<br />

doors in March of <strong>2020</strong>. Now the upscale,<br />

adult-only, all-inclusive offers 258 luxurious<br />

suites including Preferred Club swim-out<br />

options, and all guest receive their signature<br />

Unlimited-Luxury® treatment with<br />

gourmet fare and top-end spirits in several<br />

dining and bar options or via 24/7 room<br />

service. They also have a state-of-the-art<br />

convention centre, a huge ballroom, and a<br />

world-class spa. Also notable is their water<br />

circuit boasting the largest infinity pool in<br />

the Western Caribbean.<br />

www.secretsresorts.com/en_us/resorts/stmartin/st-martin.html<br />

Cuba gets overwater villas<br />

Situated in the province of Ciego de Ávila<br />

of Cuba just 35 minutes from Jardines del<br />

Rey International Airport, Cayo Guillermo<br />

Resort Kempinski opened in March of<br />

<strong>2020</strong>, and is touted as one of the most luxurious<br />

non-all-inclusive hotels on the<br />

island. The new resort offers 245 deluxe<br />

rooms and suites including the very exciting<br />

contemporary overwater bungalows called<br />

the Playa Pilar & Hemingway Water Villas.<br />

A gym, spa, and yoga space plus a kid’s<br />

club and tennis courts add to the allure,<br />

and the on-site drink and dining options<br />

are multiple and include a Hemingway<br />

Cigar Bar & Lounge in tribute to his love of<br />

this region.<br />

kempinski.com/en/cayo-guillermo/cayoguillermo-resort<br />

St. Augustine’s stylish<br />

new beachfront resort<br />

Florida’s oldest city now has a new way to<br />

stay on its gorgeous Atlantic coast since<br />

Embassy Suites by Hilton opened the St.<br />

Augustine Beach Oceanfront Resort just<br />

over a year ago. Located close to Anastasia<br />

State Park, a 1,600- acre nature preserve,<br />

activities include swimming, birdwatching<br />

and nature hiking there, and it’s close to<br />

the historic old city for easy urban<br />

35<br />

explorations of St. Augustine’s most<br />

famous historic attractions. Signature<br />

dining on site and by the pool/beach, and<br />

free made-to-order breakfasts as well complimentary<br />

evening receptions, flexible<br />

event space, a fitness center and a 24/7<br />

market round out the amenities of this<br />

modern and ethereal oasis of 175 spacious<br />

two-room suites and studio suites with<br />

ocean views and balconies.<br />

embassystaugustine.com<br />

A different kind of bathing beauty?<br />

Though there are islands in the Bahamas<br />

famous for having wild pigs that you can<br />

swim and snorkel with, the feral pigs of<br />

Playa PortoMarie in Curacao aren’t that<br />

energetic. In fact, the small tribe of porkers<br />

that often wander onto the sand there are<br />

quite content to simply hog some of your<br />

shade, slowly forage around for food, or<br />

simply bask in the shallow waters along the<br />

beach. And though sometimes they might<br />

summon up the energy to roll over and<br />

request a belly rub from a human, that’s<br />

about the extent of their workout. But<br />

they’re fun to photograph, and just one<br />

more reason to head to PortoMarie which is<br />

a stunning stretch of sand on aqua sea with<br />

a double coral reef ideal for snorkeling.<br />

There’s also a dive shop and a great beach<br />

bar on site, too. (Special thanks to Donna<br />

LeClair for the great pig photo.)<br />

www.playaportomari.com<br />

Award-winning travel journalist<br />

Sue Campbell is based in Montreal but makes it<br />

her business to be on top of everything cool, hot,<br />

and new under the sun throughout the<br />

Caribbean and Latin America.<br />

<strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveler</strong> welcomes her<br />

as a regular columnist.<br />

Follow her on<br />

Instagram and Twitter @suectravel<br />

<strong>American</strong> <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveler</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2020</strong>


Arctic North Atlantic South Atlantic North<br />

Amazon Danube Mekong Nile Rhine Rhône Moselle Seine Yangtze<br />

C r u i s i n g with<br />

W O R L D<br />

<strong>Traveler</strong><br />

Come With Us &


Pacific South Pacific Indian Southern Ocean<br />

CRUISING SECTION<br />

Cruise News - pages 38-39<br />

A Very Viking Cruise! - page 42<br />

Paradise Discovered in Halong Bay - page 44<br />

Uncruising and Unwinding in Alaska - page 46<br />

On the Nile - page 48<br />

Holland America’s New Style of Cruising on the Nieuw Statendam - page 50<br />

This Photo: Paradise Cruises<br />

Sail The <strong>World</strong>!<br />

<strong>American</strong> <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveler</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2020</strong><br />

Adriatic Aegean Mediterranean Caribbean Baltic Black South-China Sea


38<br />

AmaWaterways Avalon Azamara Carnival Celebrit<br />

C r u i s e N e w s<br />

Aqua Expeditions' Aqua Nera Sets Maiden Voyage For October <strong>2020</strong><br />

Following the launch of Aqua Blu in November<br />

2019, Aqua Expeditions will unveil the highly<br />

anticipated Aqua Nera in October <strong>2020</strong>, setting<br />

a new standard for luxury river cruising on<br />

the Peruvian Amazon.<br />

The vessel will operate on three-, four- and<br />

seven-night itineraries to ensure complete flexibility<br />

and the ability to adapt to guests' travel<br />

plans. Aqua Nera's itineraries will depart from<br />

the Peruvian port of Iquitos before meandering through the various tributaries of the<br />

Peruvian Amazon and the Pacaya-Samiria National Reserve, visiting diverse Amazonian<br />

towns and villages along the way. Expert naturalist guides will be on board to offer bespoke<br />

experiences, such as intimate wildlife encounters in the world's most biodiverse rainforest;<br />

from morning birdwatching to spotting the legendary pink river dolphins.<br />

www.aquaexpeditions.com<br />

Atlas Ocean Voyages<br />

Atlas is creating a new category in<br />

between the ultra-premium and<br />

the ultra-luxury cruise brands,<br />

what they are calling Luxe-<br />

Adventure journeys. One of the<br />

key differentiators will be how they<br />

deliver the destination aboard<br />

their small, all-inclusive, luxury<br />

ships (98 rooms): offering highenergy<br />

and heart-pounding shore-side experiences that would be considered unconventional<br />

in the cruise industry, i.e. dark tourism at Chernobyl, white-water rafting in<br />

Cappadocia, glamping outside Wadi Rum, and glider flights over Provence. Back on<br />

board, they will focus on wellness and offer lively venues for guests to share their day’s<br />

exploits, think Après Ski. And these are just some options their guests will have during<br />

the inaugural summer 2021 season sailing the Holy Land and Eastern Mediterranean,<br />

Western Mediterranean, and the Black Sea aboard their first ship, <strong>World</strong> Navigator. By<br />

2023, <strong>World</strong> Navigator will be joined by four additional new sister ships<br />

www.atlasoceanvoyages.com<br />

SeaDream Yacht Club to<br />

Return to South Florida in 2022<br />

For the first time in over 10 years,<br />

SeaDream Yacht Club has revealed<br />

plans to return to South Florida.<br />

SeaDream II is now scheduled to sail<br />

to Palm Beach in January 2022. The<br />

announcement comes as SeaDream<br />

opens for reservations 33 new 2022<br />

West Indies voyages. The newly<br />

unveiled season, kicking off January<br />

2022 through April of the same year, is<br />

brimming with new destinations. For the first time in the company’s history, the luxury<br />

twin mega-yachts will sail to The Bahamas and Turks & Caicos as well as 17 new additional<br />

ports in the West Indies.<br />

www.seadream.com<br />

Australis<br />

Luxury Expedition Cruises<br />

Through Patagonia<br />

Australis cruises, the only commercial<br />

cruise company to navigate through the<br />

heart of Patagonia, offers unique disembarkations,<br />

uncompromised luxury<br />

accommodations, cuisine and wines,<br />

with strong sustainability initiatives<br />

ensuring minimal environmental impact.<br />

Their two vessels each house 100 cabins<br />

for 200 guests total, creating very special<br />

experiences.<br />

Sustainable tourism: Expert<br />

guides contribute to scientific research<br />

including bird counting, and sampling<br />

and analysis of plant and wildlife<br />

through the Science and Business<br />

Correlation Program. Australis minimizes<br />

and aims to eliminate use of single-use<br />

plastics and paper, and promotes<br />

the use of signature canteens,<br />

reducing the use of plastic onboard.<br />

Adventure/Expedition travel:<br />

<strong>Traveler</strong>s get up close and personal with<br />

unspoiled wilderness, coming face to<br />

face with the Magellan penguins during<br />

the zodiac boat excursions, which feature<br />

fur seal and albatross sightings.<br />

Australis guides are experts in the<br />

region’s history and there to educate<br />

travelers during small group disembarkations.<br />

Honeymooners: Cabins are<br />

built for two passengers fitted with large<br />

picture windows in each. Vessels feature<br />

luxury service and first-class restaurants<br />

with international cuisine and local<br />

recipes to highlight the delicious and<br />

varied regional fare, as well as a wide<br />

selection of Chilean and Argentinean<br />

wines.<br />

Tech detox: Passengers commit<br />

to the live experience during a 4 or 8-<br />

night expedition without access to<br />

phones or WI-FI, which is intentional<br />

from the brand.<br />

www.australis.com<br />

Royal-Caribbean Scenic Seabourn SeaDream Si


y Costa Crystal Cunard Disney Holland America<br />

39<br />

Silversea Opens Sales On New<br />

51-Port Grand Voyage Arctic 2021<br />

Silversea Cruises, has recently open<br />

sales on the Grand Voyage Arctic<br />

2021—a remarkable 51-port itinerary<br />

that connects a range of once-in-a-lifetime<br />

experiences.<br />

Between July 16 and September 17,<br />

2021, Silver Cloud will journey between<br />

Tromsø and Nome (Alaska), unlocking<br />

unique experiences for guests over 63<br />

nights. The cruise line’s guests will travel<br />

deep into seven countries to witness<br />

untouched glaciers, captivating wildlife,<br />

and remote communities, while also<br />

crossing the fabled Northwest Passage<br />

and enjoying two maiden calls—<br />

Nordfjordholmen (Melfjord, Norway)<br />

and Lysebotn (Norway). Silversea’s<br />

team of Expedition Experts will enhance<br />

the experience with informative lectures,<br />

immersive Zodiac tours, and activities<br />

ashore, while esteemed guest speakers,<br />

bespoke events, and many onboard<br />

enrichments complete the offering.<br />

51 PORTS, SEVEN COUNTRIES, AND<br />

TWO MAIDEN CALLS<br />

On this remarkable itinerary that will<br />

unlock many unique experiences, travellers<br />

will follow in the footsteps of<br />

Amundsen, Franklin & Ross by traversing<br />

the famous Northwest Passage. This<br />

iconic route has long intrigued the most<br />

intrepid of travelers and remains a lifedefining<br />

adventure for many.<br />

Historically significant destinations,<br />

such as Beechey Island and Gjoa<br />

Haven, will enable guests to learn more<br />

about the passage’s discovery, as they<br />

develop a deep appreciation for this<br />

pristine region and all that inhabits it.<br />

www.silversea.com<br />

Viking Announces Launch of New Expedition Voyages<br />

Purpose-Built Ships Will Bring Guests to the Far Reaches of the Earth<br />

and the Heart of North America Beginning in 2022<br />

Viking has recently announced the expansion<br />

of its destination-focused travel experiences<br />

with the launch of new expedition<br />

voyages. Viking Expeditions will begin<br />

sailing in January 2022 with its first vessel,<br />

Viking Octantis, embarking on voyages<br />

to Antarctica and North America’s<br />

Great Lakes. A second expedition vessel,<br />

Viking Polaris, will debut in August 2022,<br />

sailing to Antarctica and the Arctic.<br />

Viking’s arrival to the Great Lakes will<br />

bring the newest and most modern vessels<br />

ever to explore this region of North<br />

America and will mark a major commitment<br />

to local tourism and economic<br />

development for the states of Michigan,<br />

Minnesota and Wisconsin, as well as the<br />

Canadian province of Ontario.<br />

Viking Expedition Ships<br />

The new Polar Class 6 Viking Octantis<br />

and Viking Polaris will host 378 guests in<br />

189 staterooms; both ships are currently<br />

under construction and will be delivered<br />

in Norway by Fincantieri’s VARD.<br />

Designed by the same experienced nautical<br />

architects and engineers that designed<br />

Viking ocean ships, the ships are optimally<br />

sized and built for expeditions – small<br />

enough to navigate remote polar regions<br />

and the St. Lawrence River, while large<br />

enough to provide superior handling and<br />

stability in the roughest seas. The ships<br />

will feature public spaces that are familiar<br />

to Viking’s ocean cruise guests but that<br />

have been reimagined for expeditions, as<br />

well as new public spaces created specifically<br />

for expeditions.<br />

2022-2023 Viking Expedition<br />

Inaugural Voyages<br />

Antarctic Explorer<br />

(13 days; Buenos Aires to Ushuaia)<br />

Antarctic & South America Discovery<br />

(19 days; Buenos Aires to Rio de Janeiro)<br />

Arctic Adventure<br />

(13 days; Roundtrip Tromsø)<br />

From the Arctic to the Antarctic<br />

(44 days; Tromsø to Ushuaia)<br />

Undiscovered Great Lakes<br />

(8 days; Thunder Bay, Ontario to<br />

Milwaukee)<br />

Great Lakes Explorer<br />

(8 days; Milwaukee to Thunder Bay,<br />

Ontario)<br />

Niagara & The Great Lakes<br />

(8 days; Toronto to Milwaukee)<br />

Canadian Discovery<br />

(13 days; New York to Toronto).<br />

www.vikingcruises.com<br />

Hurtigruten MSC Norwegian Oceania Ponant Princess Regent<br />

versea Star-Clippers Uniworld Viking Windstar


A Very Viking Cruise!<br />

Article and photography by Michael Morcos<br />

Once in a cruisers life, they must take<br />

a Viking cruise. There are all sorts<br />

of cursing options and Viking has<br />

all the most popular worldwide destinations<br />

covered. Choices start between river and<br />

ocean itineraries and the lists explodes from<br />

there. Viking covers six continents and will<br />

soon have cruises that go to Antarctica on their<br />

new expedition ships (read Viking’s Expedition<br />

Ships on page 39) Being a leader with the<br />

most river boats, they cover most of the major<br />

rivers and as rumour has it, they will be soon<br />

be sailing the Mississippi. If it’s Viking then you<br />

would believe it will be another masterpiece<br />

ship and itinerary.<br />

There is a good reason why Viking has rapidly<br />

expanded their offerings, won countless<br />

prestige awards and have seen their fleet swell<br />

from their humble beginning some short years<br />

ago. They are simply the best at taking care of<br />

their clients. These very same clients have<br />

become regulars returning again and again.<br />

Some even book their next cruise while barely<br />

finishing the one they are on.<br />

As for price and value, as the saying goes ‘the<br />

proof is in the pudding’. There are lots of discounts<br />

being given by competitors but as<br />

usual, ‘you get what you pay for’. With Viking,<br />

they go far beyond that. Every detail of one’s<br />

trip is planned from the time they leave home<br />

to the return. Viking has their own in-house<br />

travel agents that work out the best routes and<br />

connections and often have special fare rates<br />

from their partner airlines. From the traveler’s<br />

flight, to an airport transfer to the ship, to easy<br />

and quick check-in, arriving at your stateroom<br />

is seamless and all so easy that your luggage<br />

is already there.<br />

Comparing all-inclusive cruises on the market,<br />

Viking cruises include excursions at every port<br />

of call with professional guides and fantastic<br />

itineraries that include the best things to see<br />

and do in that location. Also included are all<br />

three meals a day, wine and beer at lunch and<br />

supper. It is important to mention, one will<br />

never starve on a Viking cruise, quite the<br />

opposite, one has to refrain as the meals are<br />

varied and delicious. There are also special<br />

meals that reflect the gastronomy of the region<br />

and fabulously prepared and presented.<br />

All this and we must mention the superb Viking<br />

ships and having traveled on both river and<br />

ocean vessels they are, simply put, magnificent.<br />

Everything on these beauties is perfect!<br />

Pleasing Nordic design, attractive décor, relaxing<br />

lines and colors gives the feeling of tranquility.<br />

Above all else, everything is simplified,<br />

no fussing with cabin temperature controls, TV<br />

remote controls, safes, washroom faucets or<br />

cabin doors.<br />

A very Viking cruise indeed!<br />

And a very Merry Christmas as once again my<br />

wife and I are on a magnificent Viking cruise.<br />

This would be our fifth with Viking, this one<br />

during the period leading up to the holiday<br />

season. Although the Romantic Waltz cruise<br />

from Budapest to Passau was not holiday<br />

themed, per say, it sure brought us to the most<br />

stunning European Christmas markets. Seven<br />

glorious days of exploring the best of on the<br />

Photo: Viking


Danube that would bring us to five different<br />

countries, languages and cultures. Sunrise to<br />

sunset (and beyond) our itinerary was packed<br />

with fun and exploration. We could have opted<br />

for rest and relaxation, staying on board to<br />

enjoy the beautiful ship and its public spaces<br />

and amenities but exhilarated by the surroundings,<br />

we would explore the wonderful<br />

cities, towns and markets all along the way.<br />

In Budapest we would be in awe, after all, this<br />

was our first central European Christmas market.<br />

Yes, we do have them at home but in this<br />

region, the markets are infinitely bigger and<br />

much better. Our Viking longship, the<br />

Vilhjalm, would dock in the heart of the city<br />

giving us amazing 360 degree views of the<br />

best of central Budapest. On our arrival, we<br />

would waste no time and with luggage in<br />

cabin, we would bolt out the door and explore<br />

the charming quiet streets and the bustling<br />

and popular night markets. All our senses<br />

where on high as would smell the wonderfully<br />

prepared foods in stalls, traditional warm<br />

spiced wines and the cinnamon that was in<br />

every corner of the two biggest markets.<br />

The following day, we would take something<br />

typically Hungarian and something some of<br />

the locals participate in daily. That would be<br />

going to the baths. On my fourth trip here to<br />

Budapest, it was finally time to get this once in<br />

a lifetime experience. We would opt for one of<br />

Vikings optional tours of the baths. The trip<br />

there and back was effortless. With a Viking<br />

prepared bag filled with the necessities like a<br />

fluffy towel, we would depart on our private<br />

luxury coach with other Viking guests and<br />

drove straight to the bath building, all the<br />

while we had a professional guide taking<br />

about her beloved city and the history of the<br />

iconic baths.<br />

Bath anyone?<br />

This was already becoming a highlight of our<br />

trip. Barely there, I felt an easy going feeling<br />

as our coach navigated the small and dimly lit<br />

narrow streets. In a city full of bath houses,<br />

Viking’s choice was one of the best. The St.<br />

Lukacs bath building was big and grand in<br />

structure and once inside you could get lost in<br />

the many halls, passages and stairways. The<br />

baths themselves date back to the 12th century<br />

when it was the favourite of the Turkish<br />

grand Vizier. Today, they have three large outdoor<br />

pools, several indoor pools (all at varying<br />

temperatures) and many fountains and<br />

saunas. Two hours were spent in bliss relaxing<br />

and enjoying the thermal effects of the warm,<br />

natural spring waters.<br />

Cruising up the Danube<br />

In the following days, we would have more of<br />

the same. More pampering by the Viking crew,<br />

more great Viking led excursions, more wonderful<br />

scenery, more amazing experiences,<br />

more gastronomic delights, more amazing<br />

Christmas markets, more charming towns and<br />

villages, more shopping…life was good!<br />

On our seven-day cruise we would visit the<br />

small but lively Slovak capital of Bratislava<br />

where, on a Friday night, the town square<br />

swelled with happy locals singing, laughing<br />

and dancing the night away. The wonderful<br />

grand city of Vienna was at her holiday best,<br />

just about every centrally located street and<br />

square was brilliantly lit up with colourful lights<br />

and the many markets had a festive feel to<br />

them. A break from the big cities was found in<br />

the charming village of Krems and a nearby<br />

monastery, where we would be in the fresh<br />

country air and enjoy quiet reflection in the<br />

richly decorated Gottweig Abby. What followed<br />

was a breathtaking cruise through the<br />

Wachu valley: vineyards, castles and small villages<br />

dotted the landscape and locals waved<br />

as we slowly navigated the Danube. Although<br />

our time was limited in the historic city of Linz,<br />

we would still find time to stroll the main<br />

boulevard and see how the locals finished<br />

their day with food and wine in the main<br />

square.<br />

A short drive away, we were in the beautiful<br />

medieval town of Cesky Krumlov, Czechia,<br />

here we would visit one of the best-kept old villages<br />

I had ever seen. Lastly, we would finish<br />

this cruise in the lovely town of Passau,<br />

Germany, this would be a return visit for us<br />

here. As the last one was in the height of summer,<br />

this time around, the masses where gone<br />

and we felt like we were one of the locals.<br />

Yes, life was good! The Danube River is one of<br />

the best rivers worldwide for traveling to on<br />

and crusing on. The best part was the Viking<br />

experience, so perfect in so many ways, it was<br />

another ‘Very Viking Cruise!’.<br />

www.vikingcruises.com<br />

43<br />

<strong>American</strong> <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveler</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2020</strong>


44<br />

Paradise Discovered in Halong Bay<br />

by Olivia Balsinger<br />

Halong Bay is by no means<br />

unchartered territory by tourists<br />

in Vietnam, unlike other areas<br />

of her pristine coastline where crossing<br />

paths with another visitor is few and far<br />

between. In fact, over three million tourists<br />

flock to this bay each year - compare that to<br />

Vietnam’s stark coastline such as Ha Giang,<br />

which, due to its geographic location in the<br />

highlands of the country, hardly sees<br />

tourists.<br />

Halong Bay, on the other hand, is a comfortable<br />

and efficient two-hour drive on the<br />

newly-renovated highway from the bustle<br />

and chaos of the country’s capital, Hanoi.<br />

With this congestion of tourism and the saturation<br />

of competition, how do cruising<br />

companies differentiate themselves and<br />

attract guests?<br />

For Paradise Cruises, that answer lies in the<br />

company’s commitment to delivering<br />

unparalleled luxury service. With a total<br />

fleet of about a dozen ships and more in the<br />

pipeline, Paradise Cruises prides itself on<br />

creating the optimal balance of relaxation<br />

and adventure, flexibility and scheduling,<br />

opulence and simplicity. The brand has<br />

established a longtime respected reputation<br />

in the country - in fact, Paradise Group<br />

Vietnam currently owns and operates four<br />

other fleets as well as the 156-room<br />

Paradise Suites and Paradise Trend hotels,<br />

the first and only boutique luxury hotels in<br />

Halong Bay.<br />

I recently was privileged to sail Paradise<br />

Elegance throughout northeast Vietnam’s<br />

magical topography. Here we meandered<br />

through the Gulf of Tonkin, where limestone<br />

pillar islands adorned with emerald forests<br />

create a surreal scene, a real-life cross<br />

between Avatar and Jurassic Park sets.


While all Paradise Cruises share similarities<br />

in the caliber of service and itinerary variation,<br />

they still differ in many ways. I urge<br />

you to research the Paradise ships individually<br />

before booking, to decide which itinerary<br />

is most agreeable for you. For me, the<br />

answer was Paradise Elegance.<br />

Onboard Experience<br />

Paradise Elegance, with 31 spacious cabins<br />

and five-star amenities, flawlessly exemplifies<br />

the company’s vision. Grand in stature,<br />

this 200-ton steel craft ship is the most<br />

extensive overnight option to ever sail<br />

through Halong Bay, measuring 61 meters<br />

long and 13 meters wide. The precision and<br />

time it took to decorate the vessel’s interior<br />

is unmistakable - not a thread is out of<br />

place. Vietnamese and eastern Asian<br />

design concepts are fused with modern<br />

Western twists, seamlessly meshing the two<br />

worlds.<br />

The piano bar on Elegance is just that: elegant.<br />

The primary social gathering space<br />

onboard, this charming and spacious room<br />

is connected to the restaurant, luring guests<br />

for a cocktail or cigar following dinner.<br />

Between the dark wood paneling, the<br />

ornate paintings, and the musty leatherbound<br />

chairs, the room’s ambiance is reminiscent<br />

of a refined nineteenth-century<br />

English parlor, where the gentlemen sip<br />

top-shelf whiskey and talk politics. The<br />

ship’s primary evening entertainment is a<br />

live band, which readily takes requests from<br />

the audience and encourages dancing until<br />

wee morning hours.<br />

Of course, if you have two left feet, you can<br />

enjoy Elegance’s other evening activity<br />

offering: squid fishing from the stern of the<br />

boat (and if you’re lucky enough to catch<br />

one, the cook will fry it for breakfast the next<br />

morning!)<br />

The top deck of Elegance is where all the<br />

action throughout the day is centered. With<br />

striking 360 degree views of the surrounding<br />

landscape, the capability to hold up to<br />

70 people at once, and a circular, shaded<br />

bar serving snacks and happy hour specials,<br />

it’s obvious why guests flock to the<br />

top.<br />

By late afternoon the sun melts into the skyline.<br />

It provides a stunning background for<br />

the traditional Vietnamese cooking class,<br />

where the ship’s chef demonstrates how to<br />

delicately produce a classic spring roll and<br />

invites brave guests to try themselves.<br />

For a boutique cruise line, Paradise<br />

Elegance boasts a surprising variety in its<br />

31 suites. The ship has 27 Deluxe Balcony<br />

Cabins and four Terrace Suite cabins. No<br />

matter the category, all rooms include a<br />

bed, a telephone, a spacious bathroom<br />

with a shower, sink and toilet, a walk-in<br />

closet, and - most importantly - a balcony<br />

with two deck chairs. The bathrooms are fitted<br />

with their high-end amenities and are<br />

much less claustrophobic than traditionally<br />

thought of a cruise.<br />

Each guest room is assigned a butler who<br />

serves as the liaison between guests and<br />

management for the duration of the journey.<br />

The butler’s primary responsibility is to<br />

inform guests about the scheduling and<br />

serve dishes during dinner (and more informal<br />

duties include giving local advice about<br />

must - explore hidden gems in the area!)<br />

Shore Experiences<br />

Speaking of hidden gems, the greatest<br />

draw to any cruise through the UNESCOprotected<br />

Halong Bay is the ability to experience<br />

nature at her most extreme - she<br />

lures in guests from around the world with<br />

her dramatic limestone islands contrasting<br />

the vibrancy of the turquoise Gulf of Tonkin.<br />

Paradise Elegance goes far beyond the<br />

standard cruising itinerary; however, allowing<br />

guests more bespoke experiences,<br />

should they choose.<br />

Paradise Elegance provides a relatively condensed<br />

schedule for guests, whether they<br />

choose the “one night-two day” or “two<br />

night-three day” program. A one-night itinerary<br />

usually includes an afternoon visit to<br />

Sung Sot Cave, the largest and arguably<br />

most serene cave in Halong Bay. An intrep-<br />

id adventurer’s dream, the ancient<br />

45<br />

cave is composed of 1,969 sunken<br />

limestone towers submerged in the<br />

indigo waters of the bay and many still<br />

remain rugged and unexplored.<br />

Weather permitting, the next optional excursion<br />

is a visit to The Tung Sau Pearl Farm,<br />

notable for growing pearls and practicing a<br />

handmade technique based on Vietnamese<br />

tradition and Japanese technology. This is<br />

also an extraordinary inlet here to kayak<br />

and experience the untouched nature more<br />

intimately, guests can rent a two-person<br />

kayak for an additional USD 20. The following<br />

morning begins bright and early,<br />

with a visit to the famous Ti Top Island, the<br />

ideal stop to for a brisk a.m. swim or an<br />

arduous hike culminating in panoramic<br />

views at the top.<br />

The first 24 hours of Paradise Elegance’s<br />

“two night-three day” program is identical<br />

to that of the “one night” itinerary. However,<br />

guests who wish to experience Halong Bay<br />

even more in-depth will continue the second<br />

day onwards and deeper into the bay<br />

aboard the Paradise Explorer tender boat.<br />

Throughout this multi-hour journey, the ship<br />

stops at Trong Cave on Bo Hon Island,<br />

where your mouth may be left agape<br />

observing the sheer amount of stalactites<br />

dangling from the cave’s ceiling.<br />

Of course, Vietnam is famous for its hidden<br />

floating villages. Cua Van Floating Village,<br />

the largest of the five remaining floating<br />

fishing villages in the bay, is no exception.<br />

Elegance guests will reach this hidden gem<br />

the most local way possible, traditional<br />

bamboo boats. Those up for the adventure<br />

may decide to kayak instead.<br />

There is a reason why Paradise cruises have<br />

withstood the test of time and competition<br />

sailing in one of Vietnam’s most touristic<br />

areas: they prioritize comfort, luxury, and<br />

an authentic feeling of adventure.<br />

www.paradisecruise.com<br />

<strong>American</strong> <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveler</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2020</strong>


46<br />

Uncruising and Unwinding in Alaska<br />

Article and photography by Jennifer Merrick<br />

The stress of selling our home had<br />

taken its toll. Bags appeared on top<br />

of bags under our eyes from the<br />

preparation, staging, showings, open houses<br />

and uncertainty. Sleepless nights were the<br />

norm as we feverishly wished for somebody,<br />

anybody, to buy our home. But finally, it sold.<br />

Three days after the successful sale, still shellshocked,<br />

we flew to Juneau, Alaska, to<br />

embark on an UnCruise. This Seattle-based<br />

company differentiates itself from other cruise<br />

lines with its small ships (its biggest vessel has<br />

a maximum passenger capacity of 90), inclusive<br />

expedition-styled itineraries and its focus<br />

on nature, wildlife and culture.<br />

Our ship, the aptly named Wilderness<br />

Explorer, sailed a section of Alaska’s Inside<br />

Passage, a route that weaved through countless<br />

islands along the Pacific coast. We boarded<br />

tense and tired, and disembarked, seven<br />

days later, relaxed and filled with awe by the<br />

expansiveness and staggering beauty of the<br />

Alaskan landscape.<br />

Days of Adventure<br />

We fell easily into the rhythm of the ship.<br />

“Good morning, Wilderness Explorers,” the<br />

announcement would chime at the start of<br />

each day. “Breakfast is now being served in<br />

the dining room.”<br />

After a delicious and hearty meal, we’d set out<br />

to do exactly what our ship’s name dictated<br />

and explore the wilderness. Unlike other<br />

cruises I’d been on, all of the UnCruise excursions<br />

were included in the price and designed<br />

to get you out in the wilds of Alaska at whatever<br />

intensity suited you best. Choices ranged<br />

from easy discovery walks and zodiac tours to<br />

paddleboarding, sea kayaking and bushwhacking.<br />

The latter was an UnCruise speciality,<br />

which could be described as hiking<br />

without a trail, and often involved slithering<br />

under fallen trees, clamouring up rocks and<br />

sliding down hills.<br />

“We’re exploring, too!” our enthusiastic<br />

guides chirped as we dove into the lush vege-


Bay, where we paddled into a divine grotto<br />

and listened to the sound of the ocean and<br />

forest while rays of sunlight filtered through<br />

the crevices of the limestone walls.<br />

sea lions,” the ranger remarked. “It<br />

smells like one, too, and is only inhabited<br />

by males too young or old to<br />

mate.”<br />

47<br />

tation of the temperate rainforest. Our lungs<br />

filled with air so rich with oxygen we could<br />

almost taste it, as we forged our way through<br />

bushes and trees. It was the complete opposite<br />

of the please-stay-on-the-marked-trail<br />

hiking I was used to!<br />

Whatever adventure we decided on, whether<br />

leisurely or active, the wilderness never failed<br />

to astound and inspire us. Sheltered from the<br />

ocean and with an abundance of rain, vegetation<br />

flourished in the Inland Passage’s archipelago.<br />

Life clung to every branch and stone<br />

with moss and lichen of every shade of green.<br />

The calm, deep-blue water stretches out to<br />

mist-shrouded mountain peaks in the distance.<br />

Hidden Falls and Secret Grottos<br />

Because of the ship’s smaller size, we had<br />

access to special sites that ‘floating cities’ AKA<br />

larger cruise ships don’t. Places like Basket<br />

Photo: Uncruise<br />

Hidden Falls, situated on the east side of<br />

Baranof Island, is another locale that’s available<br />

only to smaller vessels. It’s home to a fish<br />

hatchery that releases about 84 million chum<br />

fry each year. Some passengers elected to<br />

participate in an interpretive tour of the facility,<br />

whereas others, like myself, explored the<br />

site by kayak. We first paddled to the waterfalls,<br />

and wondered how it could have been<br />

named ‘hidden’, when it’s a breathtaking<br />

128-feet high. And then we investigated<br />

around the hatchery, where we were amused<br />

by the fish that were continuingly jumping out<br />

of the water, sure that at one point one would<br />

flop itself into the boat. None did, though our<br />

guide said it had happened. We were also<br />

delighted by the seal, whose sweet face kept<br />

popping up, and the eagle perched on a ‘No<br />

Fishing’ sign.<br />

Glacier Bay National Park<br />

We spotted wildlife every day on our cruise,<br />

but our morning in Glacier Bay National Park<br />

was particularly memorable with sightings so<br />

incredible that even the park’s ranger was<br />

blown away.<br />

“A truly remarkable day,” said Mark Ender,<br />

who was on board with us during our time at<br />

the 3.3- million-acre park that is famous for<br />

its glaciers, scenery and wildlife. “I only make<br />

journal entries when something is truly special,<br />

and today was definitely that.”<br />

We were already feeling lucky, when we gathered<br />

around Ranger Matt on deck after<br />

breakfast, armed with binoculars. The sun<br />

was shining in this normally rainy climate,<br />

and the white-peaked mountains shimmered<br />

against the bluebird sky.<br />

“Those are the Fairweathered Mountains,”<br />

Ranger Matt told us. “They got their name<br />

because they can only be seen on days like<br />

today.”<br />

We felt even more fortunate when we started<br />

seeing the incredible wildlife at the park.<br />

“The island we passed is a bachelor pad for<br />

On South Marble Island, there were puffins,<br />

the clown of the bird world, because of their<br />

brightly-colored beaks.<br />

Next, the cutest otter floated by on his back.<br />

But all of this was just the opening for the<br />

shows that were about to start.<br />

“An orca!” someone called, and I turned just<br />

in time to see a tail fluke wave before it dove<br />

into the water. It surfaced again, this time<br />

closer to the boat along with another orca,<br />

and they both showed off their graceful moves<br />

and sleek black and white coloring. These<br />

creatures, also known as killer whales, are the<br />

largest member of the dolphin family, and it’s<br />

a rare sighting.<br />

Brown bears are not so rare, but the territorial<br />

display we witnessed was. Watching<br />

through our binoculars, passengers collectively<br />

gasped, as both bears stood up on their<br />

hind legs vying for one particular spot on the<br />

beach. One retreated but then returned again<br />

for a second and third round before disappearing<br />

in the forest.<br />

And then there was the swimming moose,<br />

who seemed completely oblivious to the clicking<br />

of cameras.<br />

Just ‘wild’ in every sense of the word. The glaciers<br />

themselves almost seemed alive, when<br />

they rumbled and crackled, as they calved<br />

into the turquoise water. Feeling miniscule<br />

before the 350-feet ice sheet, our awe of the<br />

Alaskan landscape, replaced the tension we<br />

had accumulated in the past months of selling<br />

the house.<br />

We remained blissed out until we returned<br />

home…to move.<br />

www.uncruise.com<br />

<strong>American</strong> <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveler</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2020</strong>


48<br />

On the Nile<br />

Article and Photography by Lisa TE Sonne<br />

Ican’t believe we are on the Nile, the<br />

longest river in the world, the “mother of<br />

civilization,” the river of Moses, King Tut,<br />

Cleopatra, Nefertiti, Somerset Maugham,<br />

Agatha Christie, and so many more.<br />

My eyes open dreamily to see blue waters rippling<br />

past a river bank of palm trees,<br />

papyrus-like grasses, and a donkey and<br />

thatched hut reminiscent of a biblical manger.<br />

I am waking on the top deck of the M.S.<br />

Mayfair plying the passage that thousands of<br />

feluccas with their distinct sails have journeyed<br />

over thousands of years. After seeing<br />

the ancient Egyptian sun god of Ra depicted<br />

in temples and tombs, and on cartouches and<br />

post cards in Cairo and Alexandria, I have<br />

enjoyed a solar nap, a more contemporary<br />

homage to the powerful sun overhead. It’s<br />

January, but I am comfortably warm.<br />

I hear snatches of French, Spanish, and<br />

Arabic, as well as English, from some of my<br />

fellow passengers on the 74-cabin Mayfair.<br />

Some kids are giggling and splashing in the<br />

roof Jacuzzi. Tea is being served in porcelain<br />

cups to adults. And then, in the distance, a<br />

muezzin calls locals to pray to the one great<br />

God Allah, in this country whose history is<br />

carved and painted with images of ancient<br />

gods that look part lion, crocodile, jackal,<br />

owl, lion, cow, cat, or even alien.<br />

My mind cruises through images that I have<br />

now seen in person, not just books or screens.<br />

The Egyptian museum in Cairo was an essential<br />

three-dimensional primer before going to<br />

tombs and temples. The museum’s 120,000<br />

artifacts include King Tut’s gold mask, wellpreserved<br />

royal mummies, and colorful hieroglyphics.<br />

The museum is nestled among high-rises in


how it got there and who else has<br />

touched it in hundreds of generations<br />

of people.<br />

49<br />

the capital of Egypt, which bustles with 20 million<br />

living people. Across the Nile to the west,<br />

in Giza, famous monuments to the dead,<br />

including the Giant Pyramids and the iconic<br />

Great Sphinx, are roughly 4,500 years old.<br />

That’s thousands of years older than other<br />

ancient bucket-list destinations, such as<br />

Angkor Wat, Machu Picchu, the Aztec pyramids,<br />

and the Anasazi cliff dwellings.<br />

River Life<br />

To live a few days on the life-source Nile, my<br />

husband and I flew south to Luxor to begin<br />

our cruise to Aswan. My first image of the Nile<br />

at Luxor was of waters much bluer than the<br />

river’s commercial artery through Cairo. And<br />

beyond the blue, desert mountains contrasted<br />

with colorful hot air balloons.<br />

Moored near the great Luxor Temple, the<br />

Mayfield became our moving home en route<br />

to shore excursions with wonderful guides. In<br />

only a few days, via horse-drawn carriages,<br />

air-conditioned vans, and shaded motorboats,<br />

we managed to visit the Valley of the<br />

Kings with King Tut’s tomb, the Valley of the<br />

Queens, the Temple of Karnak, the Temple of<br />

Rameses, the Temple of Horus in Edfu, the<br />

Philae Temple and Luxor Temple.<br />

Countless guidebooks and web sites can<br />

share incredible facts about famous locations:<br />

Estimates say about 2.3 million stone blocks<br />

weighing about one ton each were used to<br />

build the Great Pyramid. The eyes alone on<br />

the Sphinx of Giza are two meters high. But to<br />

be there with your own eyes is to wish they,<br />

too, were two meters high. There is so much<br />

to take in and to wonder about. To touch one<br />

of these mammoth stones and to marvel at<br />

Driving through open desert, then crouching<br />

through a long narrow passage and descending<br />

into the bowels of the Earth to see something<br />

astonishing awakens an innate thrill of<br />

discovery.<br />

In our current world hurtling past Snapchat<br />

and 30 nano-seconds of fame, the carved<br />

walls and pillars and ceilings in these temples<br />

are still telling stories millennia later - tales of<br />

battle and bravery, tenderness and love. And<br />

they have created rock stars (literally) for the<br />

ages.<br />

We also created our own little stories when<br />

going to have hibiscus tea in a Nubian village,<br />

visiting the Aswan Dam, clambering<br />

over rocks to see the Unfinished Obelisk, and<br />

helping make paper in the Papyrus Museum.<br />

But our touchstone was always the Nile River<br />

to smell the winds that swirl felucca sails and<br />

to watch the moods of the clouds and to feel<br />

the rhythms of the river’s tides.<br />

Our well-appointed ship provided several<br />

ways to view river life: topside with winds and<br />

smells and sun, from the dining room with<br />

good food and drink, or from a balcony in the<br />

suite. Our room even had a deep bathtub<br />

with a sliding panel, so that we could see over<br />

the bed, through the balcony glass door, and<br />

onto the Nile itself.<br />

We passed diverse tableaux - oasis-looking<br />

settlements, stretches of sand-piled deserts<br />

with a row of camel, and all-rock islands with<br />

only winged visitors. We passed the river life<br />

of fisherman and farmers in realms once<br />

ruled by great pharaohs. We passed cliffs with<br />

cave-like portals that stirred mystery about<br />

what might have once been.<br />

When the sun blazed fiery farewell to another<br />

day, we saw it in the sky and reflected in the<br />

Nile, as it has been millions of times before.<br />

And later we could sleep on the Nile, under<br />

the stars of Moses and Pharaohs.<br />

Yes. We really are on the Nile.<br />

www.egypt.travel<br />

<strong>American</strong> <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveler</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2020</strong>


50<br />

Holland America’s New Style of Cruising on the Nieuw Statendam<br />

by Janice and George Mucalov<br />

IIt was music to our ears. Literally. The<br />

gifted classical quintet on the ship’s<br />

Lincoln Center Stage played Schumann<br />

pieces to heart-tugging effect, stopping casual<br />

passers-by in their tracks. Later that<br />

evening – a few skips down the ship’s Music<br />

Walk – a live band in the Rolling Stone Rock<br />

Room kicked out smash hits that got everyone<br />

rockin’ and rollin’ like it was the 70s again.<br />

The B.B. King’s Blues Club also got us into the<br />

groove with soulful and funky tunes from<br />

Memphis.<br />

If you think you know what cruising is like on<br />

Holland America, think again!<br />

Holland America has jazzed up its approach<br />

to cruising, especially on its two newest<br />

2,650-passenger ships, the Pinnacle-class<br />

Koningsdam and Nieuw Statendam.<br />

This is not your granny’s cruise – though she’s<br />

very welcome. Our one-week Caribbean<br />

cruise on the Nieuw Statendam attracted a<br />

wide range of guests, from young families<br />

(most with well-behaved children) to globetrotting<br />

silver-haired couples.<br />

Club Orange<br />

We signed up for Club Orange, the cruise<br />

line’s new VIP pay-for-perks program ($25<br />

USD p.p. a day). This allowed us to skip the<br />

lines when embarking in Fort Lauderdale and<br />

board the ship almost immediately.<br />

Best of all, we could have breakfast and dinner<br />

in the private Club Orange restaurant,<br />

also open to Neptune and Pinnacle Suite<br />

guests. Sporting décor color pops of pumpkin


orange and an open kitchen, it serves exclusive<br />

Club Orange dishes (which change<br />

daily), in addition to what’s on the menu in<br />

the main dining room. It’s particularly great<br />

for bypassing the breakfast crowds in the<br />

main buffeteria and enjoying a sit-down<br />

breakfast of Eggs Benny.<br />

Fresh Ship Design<br />

Both contemporary and timeless, the Nieuw<br />

Statendam’s design sings.<br />

In the three-deck-high central atrium, a spiral<br />

staircase winds around a soaring sculpture<br />

resembling a harp. You feel as if you’re walking<br />

right into the stainless steel strings. Look<br />

up at the ceiling skylight, and you see a<br />

changing kaleidoscope of high-def images –<br />

maybe wispy clouds or, at night, a star-studded<br />

sky.<br />

The $4 million art collection relates mostly to<br />

music. But other pieces are catnip for art<br />

lovers too. Many are new takes on classic<br />

masterpieces. There’s a reproduction of the<br />

Mona Lisa. And beside it, another Mona Lisa<br />

made of jigsaw puzzle pieces. Triple take – is<br />

that a seriously blurred picture of the famous<br />

half-smiling lady? You can’t help but stop and<br />

try to figure out the art on the walls.<br />

Lots of high-tech wizardry abounds too. Fancy<br />

a glass of wine for lunch in the Lido Market?<br />

Just press a buzzer on your table to get<br />

almost-instant service. And gone are the days<br />

of checking a paper print-out of the daily<br />

activities – simply check the HAL Navigator<br />

app on your phone.<br />

New Specialty Restaurants<br />

We’ve cruised HAL in the past, but the dining<br />

had never really wowed us. Not so in the<br />

Nieuw Statendam’s specialty restaurants.<br />

We often judge a resto by something as simple<br />

as the bread. If it’s not good, we don’t<br />

expect much from the rest of the food. On the<br />

Statendam, each of the four main specialty<br />

dining spots boasts its own unique yummy<br />

bread.<br />

At the 54-seat Rudi’s Sel de Mer? Crusty<br />

baguettes garnished with sprigs of fresh rosemary.<br />

The place transports you to a cozy<br />

French brasserie with plush curved red banquette<br />

seating and pop-art porcelain plates<br />

painted with colorful food faces adorning the<br />

back wall. We couldn’t resist the classic escargot<br />

baked in Pernod butter for an appetizer.<br />

C’est bon! Popular entrées include duck à l’orange,<br />

coq au vin and whole Dover sole meunière<br />

with shaved pink Himalayan sea salt.<br />

But the Pan-Asian Tamarind was our favourite<br />

restaurant. Sophisticated dim lighting. Black<br />

wood tables and plates. Rich purple glassware.<br />

Enhancing the exotic mood? Asian<br />

servers dressed in long Thai-style silk dresses.<br />

We sipped chilled sake while waiting for our<br />

orders. First up: A tempting array of fresh lobster<br />

and dragon rolls from sushi master Andy<br />

Matsuda’s sushi bar. Next, we sampled wokseared<br />

lobster, red Thai curry of cashew barramundi<br />

and Mongolian barbecued lamb<br />

chops with baby bok choy and plum sauce. It<br />

was all so tasty that if our cruise was longer,<br />

we’d have happily sprung for the extra $25<br />

USD p.p. cover charge to eat here again.<br />

The Pinnacle Grill for steak and wild salmon<br />

and Canaletto for Italian food also won us<br />

over.<br />

Staterooms<br />

And then there are the staterooms. Of the<br />

1,339 accommodations (including 174<br />

suites), 851 are veranda staterooms. Varying<br />

from 228 to 420 square feet (including the<br />

balcony), they’re well thought out.<br />

Dressed in white duvets, the beds face a large<br />

flat-screen TV opposite. There’s plenty of cupboard<br />

and drawer space (and we liked the<br />

wall hooks for hanging sunhats and purses).<br />

Bathrooms have decent-sized glass showers,<br />

so you can lather up with the ship’s Elemis<br />

products without bumping into the sides. A<br />

swack of convenient USB bedside and other<br />

plugs also meant we could recharge our<br />

phones, iPad, laptop and cameras all at the<br />

same time. Outside on our balcony, two grey<br />

lounge chairs came with footstools so we<br />

could even recline and nap (sort of).<br />

Pools and fitness room<br />

Sea days are perfect for relaxing on deck by<br />

the pool, right? We had two such days on our<br />

cruise.<br />

There are two pools on the Nieuw<br />

Statendam. One is mid-ship, with a<br />

51<br />

retractable glass roof and lounge<br />

chairs topped with thick cushions. On<br />

the upper deck overlooking the pool, you can<br />

loll about like a Roman on cool cocoon-like<br />

couches and chairs, separated by breezy<br />

white curtains. You have to be savvy to snag a<br />

lounger here though (easier come mid-afternoon).<br />

Aft is another less busy pool.<br />

For a pocket of tranquility, The Retreat is a<br />

separate sanctuary with pool- and ocean-view<br />

cabanas and dedicated staff to serve you<br />

drinks. It’s popular, so book early (extra<br />

charge). We tried to reserve a cabana for our<br />

second sea day; sadly, they were all gone.<br />

We decided to hit the fitness room with its forward<br />

view windows instead (better for us, we<br />

consoled ourselves). Problem: With so many<br />

state-of-the-art machines, it was hard to figure<br />

out which ones to try!<br />

Itinerary<br />

After summering in Europe, the Nieuw<br />

Statendam returns to her Fort Lauderdale<br />

homeport in November, <strong>2020</strong>, for another<br />

winter season of Western and Eastern<br />

Caribbean cruises. The star attraction is Half<br />

Moon Cay, included on most itineraries.<br />

Picture the dreamiest of tropical islands with<br />

powder white sand and limpid waters.<br />

Chances are it looks a lot like this, HAL’s private<br />

island in the Bahamas.<br />

You can pet stingrays, ride horses and pedal<br />

a bicycle around the small island. But we were<br />

happiest just lazing about on the beach under<br />

the shade of waving palms. And when our<br />

stomachs started growling, we plonked ourselves<br />

down on wooden bar stools in the<br />

breezy new Lobster Shack to chow down on<br />

fresh grilled lobster.<br />

Ahhh… Eat, swim, sleep, repeat. And<br />

evenings of first-rate entertainment to look<br />

forward to. A Caribbean cruise doesn’t get<br />

much better than this.<br />

www.hollandamerica.com<br />

<strong>American</strong> <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveler</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2020</strong>


52<br />

Luxury Hotels...Grand Resorts...Charming B&B...Opulent Villas...Quaint C<br />

Sweet Dreams Around the <strong>World</strong><br />

Stay & Play Section<br />

Escape to Wonderland: Hotel Giardino Mountain Resort<br />

by Olivia Balsinger<br />

St. Moritz has always been a scene of winter wonderlands, and Hotel Giardino<br />

Mountain is no exception. A train journey on the Swiss Rail, reminiscent of the Polar<br />

Express, takes guests to the five-star property from the country’s capital of Zurich.<br />

The ride itself is out of a Christmas card - hills and mountains juxtapose quaint villages<br />

as the train meanders through rural Switzerland’s valleys.<br />

Once pulling into the charming St. Moritz train station, you’ll be greeted by one of<br />

the hotel’s drivers who whisks you to Hotel Giardino Mountain - aptly named for fitting<br />

snug in slopes of the Albula Alps. The property is comprised of seven Engadine<br />

houses which were extensively restored in 2011 and reopened as a five-star design<br />

hotel.<br />

Mother Nature is undoubtedly showing off in this environment, the hotel is perched<br />

at almost 2,000 meters above sea level, snuggly caressed between the Alpine peaks<br />

of Corvatesh and Corviglia. For those who enjoy adventurous activities or simply<br />

rejuvenation in nature, there is a pristine lake just 300 meters from the hotel that<br />

sits adjacent to a spectacular pine forest.<br />

In the wintertime, by far the busiest time of year for tourism in St. Moritz, locals and<br />

foreigners alike enjoy skating and cross-country<br />

skiing by the lake. Though the area is<br />

known for these months of bundling warm, of<br />

course, though locals say they prefer summer<br />

in St. Moritz. As the air warms, they can go<br />

swimming and boating on the lake, or explore<br />

the maze of trees while sporting hiking boots<br />

instead of skis.<br />

For those who prefer to relax and enjoy the<br />

amenities of the resort instead of heart-palpitating<br />

adventures, Hotel Giardino Mountain<br />

has got you covered. The Dipiù Spa at Hotel Giardino Mountain is a relaxing and<br />

immersive experience, with pools, saunas, gyms, massages, and cosmetic options.<br />

The Hotel Giardino Mountain is a blissful escape where guests can enjoy as much<br />

or as little of surrounding nature as they’d like. The possibilities here are as boundless<br />

as the Alps themselves.<br />

The Algonquin Hotel<br />

Times Square New York<br />

by Mike Cohen<br />

The Algonquin Hotel Times Square first<br />

opened its doors in 1902. Today, it is part<br />

of the Marriott chain’s Autograph<br />

Collection, an evolving ensemble of strikingly<br />

independent hotels. Each of the 181<br />

rooms and 25 suites features a comfortable<br />

well-lit work desk, as well as complimentary<br />

Wi-Fi.<br />

This is our family’s home away from<br />

home whenever we travel to the Big<br />

Apple. We stayed in a very comfortable<br />

one bedroom Playbill Suite. The layout<br />

was ideally suited for us. There is a nice<br />

sized entrance, with the master bedroom<br />

to the left featuring a nice-sized bathroom.<br />

The spacious living room has a<br />

pullout couch, a large desk which was<br />

perfect for me to write my stories and<br />

good drawer and cupboard space. You<br />

can get a fridge and a microwave,<br />

depending upon availability and on<br />

request.<br />

www.algonquinhotel.com<br />

www.giardinohotels.ch<br />

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53<br />

peace and clarity. Though skeptical about<br />

the cosmic power of gems, there was no<br />

doubt of the peacefulness that descended<br />

upon us at this spa. We reluctantly left, but<br />

knew we’d be back. Did I mention wellness-inclusive<br />

covered a massage a day<br />

and full access to the spa waters?<br />

“Hasta manana, YHI SPA,” I whispered<br />

under my breath.<br />

Our wellness suites had a menu of ‘stay<br />

well’ features that included: air purification,<br />

aromatherapy, circadian task lighting,<br />

guided meditation, stay well shower<br />

infuser, dawn simulation and a Deepak<br />

Chopra welcome. Meal options ranged<br />

from healthy pressed green juices delivered<br />

to your room to indulgent multicourse<br />

meals at the property’s many<br />

restaurants. And, of course, all sorts of<br />

libations as wellness-inclusive also meant<br />

all-inclusive.<br />

“It’s all about choice,” Bothfeld commented.<br />

Wellness-inclusive Luxury at Melia Punta Cana Beach Resort<br />

This January, resolutions still fresh in<br />

my mind, I was delighted to check<br />

out the brand-new ‘wellness-inclusive’<br />

initiative at the adults-only Melia<br />

Punta Cana Beach in the Dominican<br />

Republic.<br />

“This program is like our baby,” said Oliver<br />

Bothfeld, hotel manager. “We really wanted<br />

to do something different.”<br />

The first difference was that we checked in<br />

not at the front desk, but at the spa. Not<br />

by Jennifer Merrick<br />

just any spa, either, but the lush and serene<br />

YHI SPA filled with tropical plants and water<br />

features with turtles lazily basking on rocks.<br />

Our tight, winter-weary muscles unknotted<br />

a little, as we sipped Tropical Moringa<br />

Herbal Tea and filled in our information.<br />

Once done, we were given our wellness<br />

bracelets, which, unlike the plastic, hospital-like<br />

bands that I associated with allinclusive<br />

resorts, was a black-stringed piece<br />

of jewellery with a larimar stone. Found<br />

only in the Dominican Republic, this blue<br />

gemstone’s energy supposedly resonated<br />

We chose to skip the 7AM Run for Fun on<br />

the Energy for Life itinerary and instead<br />

biked around the resort. The grounds were<br />

beautifully landscaped with tropical flower<br />

gardens and wildlife, like the flamingos<br />

whose reflection shimmered pinks and<br />

corals in the water. Several times during<br />

our stay, we strolled along Bavaro Beach.<br />

Recognized by UNESCO, this stretch of<br />

sand was as gorgeous as they come with<br />

postcard perfect wind-swept palms, white<br />

sands and turquoise water.<br />

We might not have kept all our resolutions,<br />

but we started the new decade in the right<br />

direction. Now every time I wear my larimar<br />

stone bracelet, I’m transported back<br />

to the Melia Punta Cana Beach Resort and<br />

start to breathe a little deeper.<br />

www.melia.com<br />

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Amsterdam Berlin Ibiza Montreal Tanzania Hawaii Rio Madrid Cape Town Beijing Sydney Vancouver Ecuador Malaysia Crete Stockholm M


Advertorial<br />

Accommodations<br />

Puntacana Resort & Club is the<br />

Caribbean’s leading resort community on<br />

the eastern shore of the Dominican<br />

Republic. Tortuga Bay is member of the<br />

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AAA Five Diamond awarded hotel in the<br />

Dominican Republic, offering understated<br />

elegance, privacy and unparalleled personal<br />

service. Located at Playa Blanca is<br />

The Westin Puntacana Resort & Club,<br />

guest enjoys all of Westin’s signature<br />

amenities and Don Queco Cigar Bar. Our<br />

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Punta Cana International Airport (PUJ).<br />

The Estates<br />

Become a part of our magnificent paradise<br />

community with the purchase of a<br />

vacation home in the elite The Estates at<br />

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An exclusive lifestyle of relaxation, excitement<br />

and understated elegance, prospective<br />

buyers can choose among elegant<br />

homes perched above the Caribbean Sea<br />

or overlooking scrupulously manicured<br />

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Hacienda, Hacienda del Mar and Marina.<br />

Home and apartments are also available<br />

at Puntacana Village.<br />

Golf<br />

With 45 holes of championship golf,<br />

Puntacana Resort & Club is the<br />

Caribbean’s premier golf & beach destination.<br />

The P.B. Dye designed La Cana<br />

Golf Course, consisting of 27 holes across<br />

Tortuga, Arrecife and Hacienda, was<br />

declared the number one course in the<br />

Caribbean by Golf Magazine. Designed<br />

by Tom Fazio and set between rocky cliffs,<br />

coral reefs and the expansive Caribbean<br />

Sea, the Corales Golf Course features six<br />

oceanfront holes, multiple lines of<br />

approach and picturesque canyons, making<br />

for an exhilarating experience.<br />

Activities & Spa<br />

Puntacana Resort & Club offers a wide<br />

range of adventures for guests of all ages<br />

including golf, tennis, kite boarding, scuba<br />

diving, horseback riding, fishing and<br />

numerous excursions by sea, land and air.<br />

The leading spa in the Caribbean, Six<br />

Senses Spa at Puntacana Resort & Club<br />

presents a range of innovative packages,<br />

Signature treatments and Asian therapies.<br />

Visit Galerías Puntacana to enjoy an<br />

assortment of shops, restaurants, playground,<br />

and our spirited nightlife.<br />

Dining<br />

Puntacana Resort & Club is home to 6<br />

world class eateries with an indigenously<br />

delectable cuisine. Tucked inside Tortuga<br />

Bay, the AAA Four Diamond awarded<br />

Bamboo blends modern cuisine with<br />

Mediterranean influences. Specializing in<br />

local seafood, The AAA Three Diamond<br />

Award La Yola is located at the Marina. At<br />

La Cana Golf & Beach Club is The Grill,<br />

an <strong>American</strong> style grill offering views of<br />

the sea. The Westin Puntacana Resort &<br />

Club provides a variety or restaurants and<br />

bars from Ananí to Brassa Grill. Next door<br />

is Playa Blanca, a beachfront tropical<br />

restaurant. Our Dine Around Program<br />

offers the best sampling of our finest culinary<br />

experience. All restaurants offer complimentary<br />

shuttle service within the resort.<br />

More dining options are available at<br />

Puntacana Village.<br />

Corporate Social Responsibility<br />

We believe that in development there<br />

needs to be equilibrium among the economic,<br />

environmental and social components.<br />

Our non-profit Grupo Puntacana<br />

Foundation serves both natural and social<br />

resources, while contributing to the sustainable<br />

development of our Dominican<br />

Republic. These practices have been guiding<br />

principles of our company, and along<br />

with vision, hard work and perseverance,<br />

the key to our success.<br />

Punta Cana International airport<br />

Punta Cana International Airport (PUJ),<br />

built, owned and operated by Grupo<br />

Puntacana, the resort’s developers, and<br />

located within Puntacana Resort & Club, is<br />

just minutes away from check-in at any of<br />

our hotels or private homes. Punta Cana<br />

International Airport (PUJ) has direct service<br />

from 98 different cities around the<br />

world, making Punta Cana the most<br />

accessible destination in the Caribbean.<br />

Our VIP terminals service the needs of<br />

guests flying in private aircrafts.<br />

The Caribbean’s Premiere Golf<br />

& Beach Resort Community<br />

www.puntacana.com


56<br />

Hilton Garden Inn<br />

Sacramento Art and Food Celebrated at the Hilton Garden Inn’s New Hotel<br />

by Jennifer Merrick<br />

IIn the lobby of the newly-opened Hilton<br />

Garden Inn Sacramento Airport<br />

Natomas, we watched as local artist,<br />

Amie M. Tokuhama-Chapman, painted a<br />

floor-to-ceiling mural of flowers, farm fields<br />

and a plane.<br />

“It’s a tribute to the hotel’s location and<br />

Sacramento,” said Amie when I admired her<br />

work.<br />

Located 100 miles northeast of San Francisco,<br />

Sacramento, California’s capital, is known for<br />

its rich soil and bountiful crops. The Hilton<br />

Garden Inn gives guests a taste of the farmto-fork<br />

city with nightly chef specials at the<br />

Brightheart Bar and the Garden Grille and<br />

Bar. We enjoyed an assortment of local meats<br />

and cheeses along with the freshest of fruit<br />

accompanied by a Judy’s Garden Gin, a sig-<br />

Jennifer Merrick<br />

nature cocktail created especially for actress,<br />

Judy Greer.<br />

The Shop, open 24 hours a day, also stocks<br />

local products, including chocolate and confectionaries<br />

from Andy's Candy Apothecary;<br />

wines from nearby family-owned vineyard,<br />

Bogle Winery and almonds. The valleys<br />

around Sacramento produce the majority of<br />

the world’s supply of this nutritious nut, along<br />

with plums, peaches, tomatoes, olives, pears,<br />

sunflowers and grapes. Amie’s painting of the<br />

farm fields celebrated this rich agricultural<br />

heritage.<br />

The mural also reflects the strong street art<br />

culture of Sacramento. The city has embraced<br />

outdoor art with over 800 murals in the downtown<br />

core alone and an annual festival that<br />

sees dozens of new murals every year.<br />

“Graffiti artists, sometimes on the run, migrated<br />

here from the larger cities,” said Jenn<br />

Kistler-McCoy, our guide and owner of Sac<br />

Tour Company, explaining how the culture of<br />

murals began in Sacramento.<br />

On the tour through downtown Sacramento,<br />

Jenn fed us tidbits and tales about the murals<br />

and the artists. Some were well-known, like<br />

Shepard Fairey, a street-art celebrity, whose<br />

arresting 15-story Johnny Cash mural was a<br />

commentary on the prison system. Other<br />

artists were local, like Maren Conrad, who<br />

painted a tribute to Lady Bird, an Oscar-nominated<br />

coming-of-age story that brought<br />

Sacramento into the limelight.<br />

“It’s a city that fosters art,” Amie said, and<br />

then told us that the Hilton Garden Inn commissioned<br />

her for the mural after seeing her<br />

sidewalk art at one of the city’s many festivals.<br />

The plane in her work reflects the location of<br />

the hotel. Situated seven minutes from the airport<br />

and ten minutes from downtown, it<br />

attracts both business and leisure guests.<br />

Modern, comfortable and reasonably priced,<br />

its amenities include an outdoor pool, business<br />

center, fitness room, room service and<br />

free parking. And if your timing is right, you<br />

may just get to see more art in action. Hilton<br />

Garden Inn has plans to commission more<br />

murals as part of its mandate that the hotel<br />

represent the character and flavours of<br />

California’s capital.<br />

www.hilton.com/en/hilton-garden-inn<br />

Jennifer Merrick<br />

<strong>American</strong> <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveler</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2020</strong>


57<br />

Hotel Review: Vista Encantada Spa Resort & Residences<br />

by Olivia Balsinger<br />

My recent stay at Vista Encantada<br />

Spa Resort & Residences, the<br />

meticulous newly-opened resort in<br />

Cabos San Lucas, entirely regenerated my<br />

spirit. After all, it would be difficult to not feel<br />

at peace at this exclusive and tranquil property,<br />

the ultimate retreat from the Cabos chaos<br />

energy nearby.<br />

Nothing is more soul-soothing than a backstroke<br />

in one of the resort’s rooftop infinity<br />

pools, under the canvas of the sprawling<br />

Mexican sky, the surrounding Pacific Ocean’s<br />

breeze cooling the harsh air, the unobstructed<br />

views of the famed Land’s End rock formation<br />

in the distance.<br />

The elegance in Vista Encantada’s interior is a<br />

seamless melange between traditional<br />

Mexican color palettes and smooth contemporary<br />

finishes. An all-suite property, the<br />

“smallest” living arrangement is a one-bedroom<br />

suite, which features a master bedroom<br />

with a King bed and a living area with a full<br />

kitchen, sitting and dining area, and an<br />

accompanying lounge area.<br />

The Milagro Spa is the optimal sanctuary to<br />

indulge in unique treatments and remedies<br />

carefully curated with Mexican wisdom of<br />

herbs and plants to help heal and rejuvenate<br />

the body. I indulged in the Pacific Mare<br />

Signature Ritual, which delicately combines<br />

warmth from an ancient Ayurvedic warm oil<br />

and a cooling sensation to dually relax and<br />

ease muscle tension (which, after countless<br />

laps in the infinity pool, I certainly needed!)<br />

The spa also boasts a variety of couple’s treatments,<br />

including a lighted candle drip massage<br />

and a romantic aromatherapy experience,<br />

including champagne and strawberries,<br />

of course.<br />

The gastronomic delights of Vista Encantada<br />

make it worth a visit on its own. A stay is<br />

incomplete without digesting the panoramic<br />

views and signature dishes at Mestizo del Mar.<br />

Wannabe mermaids like myself will adore the<br />

swim-up bar and grill at Atico Rooftop Pool<br />

and Bar, while those who prefer a little spice<br />

in their bite will flock to Los Riscos Mesquite<br />

Grill and Bar for authentic Mexican dishes<br />

and zesty margaritas. To promote nearby<br />

local businesses, the hotel also has a unique<br />

Golden Zone program which invites guests to<br />

use their meal plans at local restaurants,<br />

including a local steakhouse and sushi restaurant.<br />

No guilt trips needed after indulging in all<br />

these tasting offerings, however, because<br />

there are plenty of complimentary fitness<br />

activities to enjoy. Take advantage of perhaps<br />

the prettiest gym you’ll witness, located on the<br />

property’s roof, with views of the sparkling<br />

sea below. A horseback riding program<br />

allows guests to experience the stark and<br />

drastic desert-like surroundings of the resorts,<br />

trotting through trails sprinkled with cacti.<br />

Whether pursuing an active holiday or hoping<br />

to escape from the chaos of everyday life, the<br />

distinguished hospitality, creative gastronomic<br />

experiences, world-class amenities, and<br />

amorous spa make Vista Encantada Spa<br />

Resort & Residences the obvious choice on<br />

your next Los Cabos getaway.<br />

www.vistaencantadaresort.com<br />

<strong>American</strong> <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveler</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2020</strong>


58<br />

Asylum turned Hotel<br />

Hotel Henry Urban Resort Conference Center - Buffalo, New York<br />

by Cherie DeLory, photography Christopher Payne<br />

Once a notable insane asylum with<br />

a revolutionary holistic and therapeutic<br />

approach to wellness, is<br />

now a stunning hotel and conference Center<br />

and a National Historic Landmark in Buffalo,<br />

New York. The former Buffalo State Asylum<br />

for the Insane (1880-1974) was designed in<br />

the Richardsonian Romanesque style, named<br />

after <strong>American</strong> architect Henry Hobson<br />

Richardson.<br />

In consultation with mental health advocate<br />

Dr. Thomas Kirkbride, Richardson and<br />

<strong>American</strong> landscape architect Frederick Law<br />

Olmsted collaborated on a vision that would<br />

provide a calm sanctuary and inspire hope<br />

and healing for its patients. Kirkbride believed<br />

that environment strongly influenced ones’<br />

health and wellbeing. So, maximizing the<br />

sunlight pouring into the wide open corridors<br />

and spaces, providing a garden for planting,<br />

and plenty of outside space for playing recreational<br />

sports defined the architectural and<br />

philosophical blueprint.<br />

Following an extensive restoration, the boutique<br />

hotel opened in 2017 showcasing an<br />

overwhelming character-filled elegance. It<br />

maintains the integrity of the heritage building<br />

and boasts soaring 16-foot ceilings and<br />

expansive hallways and curved corridors connecting<br />

the wings, floor to ceiling windows,<br />

and original maple hardwood and ornate<br />

mosaic tile floors.<br />

There’s an intimate lounge, workout room,<br />

restaurant, business centre, and an outside<br />

terrace overlooks the vegetable and flower<br />

garden bordered by an intriguing crossshaped<br />

garden brick wall. It’s the original<br />

medina sandstone foundation of a greenhouse<br />

built in the early 1900s, but the walls<br />

have been extended to form a cross shape.<br />

The Tower Ballroom on the fourth and highest<br />

floor used to be a chapel where multi-denominational<br />

services were held. The Buffalo State<br />

College campus, directly across the street,<br />

used to be a 100-acre working farm for the<br />

hospital. The hotel serves up sustainable and<br />

garden fresh dishes in the farm’s namesake,<br />

100 Acres.<br />

In many ways, hallmarks of the former hospital<br />

have been repurposed and remain relevant<br />

to today’s hotel residents. Art walks, popup<br />

art displays, and yoga sessions are held in<br />

the same spaces where patients were encouraged<br />

to come out of their rooms into the lightfilled<br />

expansive 15-foot hallways to socialize.<br />

Inquire at the reception desk about the complimentary<br />

self-guided audio tour of the<br />

grounds. There are many historical tours<br />

available of the Richardson Olmsted<br />

Campus, including some buildings that are<br />

not open to the public yet. Other development<br />

projects on the campus are in the planning<br />

stages, including the Lipsey Buffalo<br />

Architecture Center, a space dedicated to<br />

information about the city of Buffalo’s historic<br />

architecture.<br />

Encompassing 42 acres of green space, Hotel<br />

Henry is like a breath of fresh air and a<br />

healthy dose of sunlight. It’s within walking<br />

distance to Delaware Park, a national historic<br />

district, the Buffalo Zoo, the Museum District,<br />

art galleries, and Elmwood Village for shopping<br />

and restaurants.<br />

www.hotelhenry.com<br />

<strong>American</strong> <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveler</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2020</strong>


59<br />

The Listel: Vancouver’s Eco-conscious Boutique Hotel<br />

by Jessica Percy Campbell<br />

These days, many travelers are concerned<br />

with minimizing their carbon<br />

footprint as they explore the world.<br />

It’s no wonder that eco-friendly destinations,<br />

restaurants, and accommodations are<br />

becoming increasingly popular. From extensive<br />

bike-lanes to accessible public transit by<br />

Skytrain, Vancouver is known for leading the<br />

way in green initiatives in Canada. The Listel<br />

Hotel is one of Vancouver’s finest accommodation<br />

options, priding itself on being a zerowaste<br />

facility since 2011. Through composting<br />

organic materials, and by making use of<br />

water reduction programs and solar panels,<br />

they have also been able to reduce their own<br />

carbon footprint by 30%!<br />

But being green isn’t the only thing that<br />

makes The Listel Hotel unique. Art and culture<br />

lovers will be pleased to discover that each<br />

floor offers a variety of themed artwork in<br />

every room. The Museum Floor features<br />

beautiful artwork and pottery from<br />

Northwestern First Nations artists. The<br />

Modern Art Floor showcases vibrantly colored<br />

rooms with retro furnishings. The Gallery<br />

Floor rooms are designed to make guests feel<br />

like they’re each in their own private art<br />

gallery. The Listel also offers multiple event<br />

venues ideal for sophisticated corporate or<br />

celebratory events. From the lobby to the conference<br />

rooms, the entire hotel is decorated in<br />

carefully curated artwork from around the<br />

world.<br />

What I love most about this hotel is that<br />

Charles, The Listel’s resident coffee connoisseur,<br />

offers a wonderful daily service for the<br />

caffeine enthusiasts among us. Each night,<br />

hotel guests can fill out a card indicating their<br />

preference for French press coffee or tea<br />

delivery in the morning. They will literally<br />

“wake up and smell the coffee” at their<br />

doorstep in the best way possible so that they<br />

can hit the ground running. The Listel Hotel is<br />

ideally situated in an exciting area of<br />

Vancouver’s West End, with hundreds of<br />

restaurants and shops within walking distance.<br />

The hotel is also connected to Forage,<br />

an award-winning restaurant well-known for<br />

its commitment to sustainability and for featuring<br />

locally sourced ingredients, wines, and<br />

craft beer from British Columbia.<br />

As Vancouver is one of the mildest cities in<br />

Canada, tourists can visit year-round without<br />

worrying too much about extreme weather.<br />

Visitors will never run out of things to do, as<br />

Vancouver offers the perfect mix of city life<br />

and nature, with many hikes and gorgeous<br />

beach scenes available nearby. I’d recommend<br />

taking a leisurely stroll through Stanley<br />

Park or Lynn Canyon Park before a night out<br />

on the town. For fitness lovers looking for<br />

something a little more challenging, the<br />

Grouse Mountain “grind” is certainly tough,<br />

but it ends in a rewarding view of the city.<br />

Vancouver also hosts all kinds of interesting<br />

events such the International Wine Festival at<br />

the end of February and the Cherry Blossom<br />

festival in April. Whatever your fancy, The<br />

Listel Hotel is a charming place to call home<br />

while wandering around the stunning city of<br />

Vancouver.<br />

Bonus: Guests visiting The Listel Hotel from<br />

surrounding areas nearby like BC, Alberta, or<br />

Washington State, are offered a resident’s<br />

rate of 15% off.<br />

www.thelistelhotel.com<br />

<strong>American</strong> <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveler</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2020</strong>


62<br />

Curacao - Four Fab Spots to Stay<br />

Curacao Marriott Beach Resort<br />

Exciting New Oasis for Business and Leisure<br />

by Susan Canpbell<br />

Renaissance Curacao Resort & Casino<br />

Practical Urban Base with a Brand-New Vibe<br />

by Susan Canpbell<br />

Iwas delighted to hear that the Curacao Marriott would be reopening<br />

in the Piscadera Bay area in 2019. The absence of a major<br />

resort on that prime piece of real estate right across the street from<br />

the Curacao <strong>World</strong> Trade Center was sorely missed. But now, after a<br />

$40 million USD renovation, the transformation is complete. And it’s<br />

glorious. I’m happy to see they left the grand entrance and sprawling<br />

pool intact and now, bedecked with state-of-the-art amenities, they are<br />

regaining their reputation as<br />

a first-rate stay on that landmark<br />

six acres of oceanfront.<br />

They will soon also offer the<br />

largest meeting space<br />

capacity on the island.<br />

The 336-room hotel is divided<br />

into two wings flanking<br />

The Great Room lobby area,<br />

one with a stand alone<br />

adult-only pool area. Our<br />

rooms were fresh and modern with epic sea views, and our Reef Club<br />

level status gave us access to an inviting indoor/outdoor space just off<br />

the lobby offering complimentary gourmet snacks and spirits. Also, off<br />

the lobby, is Zalo Gastropub for creative tapas and hand-crafted cocktails,<br />

a sushi bar, and a coffee house/marketplace for grab-and-gogoodies.<br />

For surfside food and drink, there’s the lively Salty Iguana, but<br />

it’s their new signature dining spot called C-Spice that’s really making<br />

big waves on Curacao’s culinary front. We had the pleasure of enjoying<br />

a fabulous poolside<br />

dinner there, and it was<br />

great to see award-winning<br />

Chef Dino Jagtiani at<br />

the helm. I knew him from<br />

St. Maarten when he ran<br />

Temptation, one of that<br />

island’s most celebrated<br />

restaurants for many years.<br />

Welcome back Curacao<br />

Marriott!<br />

www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/curpb-curacao-marriott-beach-resort<br />

I’d not been to this cool urban resort in the heart of downtown<br />

Willemstad for two years, so I was really surprised at the magnitude<br />

of changes there- all for the better! Though their past carnival theme<br />

had been a very bright and colorful collage of design elements, that’s<br />

all changed after a 12-million-dollar renovation. Though the new Wind<br />

Creek Carnival Casino still carries on that festive colorful theme, the<br />

entire complex has been redesigned with an ethereal upscale, sleek,<br />

and modern style. From the sparkling new lobby and refreshed<br />

indoor/outdoor Nautilus signature dining room to the addition of a<br />

guest-only Starbucks on the second floor, the resort has truly been elevated.<br />

And it’s extremely inviting.<br />

Our stay this time was short but sweet, so the first spot I headed to was<br />

the unique manmade clifftop beach and seawater infinity pool, seriously<br />

one of the coolest water installations I’ve ever experienced. I’m happy<br />

to say that it’s still intact the way I remembered it, but now it’s even better<br />

with on-site spa cabanas. It’s right beside the cruise terminal, so you<br />

can see the twinkling lights of the ships on the water at night, and during<br />

the day, sometimes the infinity view provides the optical illusion that<br />

the ships are about to cruise right up onto the beach! Very cool.<br />

All the property’s 223 rooms and suites have been completely refreshed,<br />

and I totally enjoyed my sea view room overlooking the historic Rif Fort<br />

and its lively outdoor village where the outdoor music can waft up to<br />

your balcony at night. Of special note was the abundance of 110-volt<br />

outlets, there were dozens<br />

of them. Most of Curacao’s<br />

hotel rooms were originally<br />

designed to accommodate<br />

European visitors, so they<br />

often require adapters for<br />

the 220-volt outlets.<br />

This is an ideal practical<br />

base for business travellers,<br />

but also perfect for those<br />

seeking to be within easy<br />

walking distance of all the island’s UNESCO <strong>World</strong> Heritage sites and<br />

major urban attractions Willemstad has to offer.<br />

www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/curbr-renaissancecuracao-resort-and-casino<br />

<strong>American</strong> <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveler</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2020</strong>


63<br />

Avila Beach Hotel<br />

The Grande Dame That Always Delights<br />

by Susan Canpbell<br />

Santa Barbara Beach & Golf Resort<br />

An Ideal Escape for All Ages<br />

by Susan Canpbell<br />

Every time I visit Curacao, I like to spend time at this classic<br />

Grande Dame, and each time I do, it’s even better than the last!<br />

Celebrating its 70th anniversary in 2019, this is the resort where<br />

the Dutch Royal Family stays while on island, but this spot, though definitely<br />

aristocratic, is by no means snooty. It’s an inviting compilation of<br />

two family-friendly private beaches with a house coral reef ideal for<br />

snorkeling, a collection of casual and modern dining spots, and fun<br />

and friendly bars. In fact, their Blues Bar is famous for being the<br />

absolute best spot for Thursday Happy Hour on island. It’s set upon its<br />

own high pier, and their live jazz band plays atop the bar on their own<br />

loft perch. And if you dine on their outside deck there Thursday nights,<br />

you’ll also be treated to the Punda Thursday Vibes fireworks display in<br />

the distance.<br />

The 150-room complex is divided into three separate wings, each with<br />

its own appeal and specialty. The Blues Wing sits atop its own overwater<br />

pier and is uber romantic, especially now that this wing has been<br />

designated as adult-only. For business travelers and those seeking nononsense,<br />

sleek, modern stays, the Octagon Wing is the place to be,<br />

and that’s where you’ll find their stylish Cloud Nine Spa, 24/7 fitness<br />

centre and deluxe infinity<br />

pool. La Belle Alliance Wing is<br />

more classic colonial and their<br />

apartment style stays are preferred<br />

by families because<br />

they sport full kitchens. We<br />

had the pleasure of staying in<br />

their new two-bedroom luxury<br />

penthouse suite in the Belle<br />

Alliance Wing, and it was<br />

epic. The 3rd-floor sea view<br />

deck was large enough for a<br />

party of 20, the open concept kitchen/living room was also massive,<br />

and the the fact that it has 2 1/2 bathrooms and its own laundry facilities<br />

was also a plus.<br />

There’s also history and culture on site - a small octagonal museum<br />

dedicated to Simon Bolivar is worth a visit, and there’s often outdoor<br />

classical musical concerts in their sea front courtyard.<br />

www.avilabeachhotel.com<br />

Iadore staying at this sprawling complex out on the island’s eastern<br />

tip, it’s truly a destination within a destination, and it offers everything<br />

one could want for an ideal tropical holiday. And if you golf,<br />

even better. Their spectacular seaside Old Quarry Golf Course has won<br />

best in the Caribbean awards many years running. I don’t golf, but I do<br />

love to go tropical fish-finding, and this resort is just around the corner<br />

from the cool tugboat wreck in Spanish Waters, one of the island best<br />

snorkels sites.<br />

The colonial style complex of<br />

350 stylish and spacious rooms<br />

spans 2,000 acres of gorgeous<br />

palm gardens and a lovely protected<br />

beachfront with shallow<br />

waters ideal for families.<br />

Children also love the water<br />

fountain splash area and parents<br />

love the main pool with big cabanas and food and beverage service.<br />

The resort now has an all-inclusive option, and dining on site<br />

includes a collection of beach bars and grills, the Medi main dining<br />

room, sushi and cocktails in The Great Room and Shore, their standalone<br />

signature restaurant that sits atop a cliff over the sea. Shore also<br />

welcomes off-property guest and it is, in my opinion, one of the best<br />

dining spots on the island, and so do take a trip out there to experience<br />

it, even if you are not staying at the<br />

resort. They have an excellent<br />

stand-alone bar there, too.<br />

Personally, I simply enjoy chilling<br />

on the beach or floating in the sea<br />

while there and getting royally<br />

pampered in their awesome<br />

Atabei Spa is also a must, but if fitness<br />

is your thing, there are plenty<br />

of options. Hiking, biking, guided yoga and Pilates and an excellent<br />

24/7 gym are a few, and the resort’s tennis and golf pros offer weekly<br />

clinics for guests. The calm waters surrounding Santa Barbara beach<br />

are also ideal for SUP and sea kayaking.<br />

www.santabarbararesortcuracao.com<br />

Curacao - Four Fab Spots to Stay<br />

<strong>American</strong> <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveler</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2020</strong>


64<br />

Cherry Orchards, Light Houses and Shoreline<br />

by Cherie DeLory, photography: Destination Door County<br />

“Hold on tight,” shouts master lighthouse<br />

keeper, Hal Wilson from the wheel of his<br />

tractor’s seat. “This is going to be a lot<br />

of fun.” No, we’re not going for a hay wagon<br />

ride through the fragrant cherry orchards of<br />

Door County, Wisconsin. We’re braving the<br />

stormy waters of Lake Michigan over the<br />

causeway en route to the Cana Island<br />

Lighthouse. Depending on the weather, sometimes<br />

the causeway is free of water and visitors<br />

can walk to the island, but today we’re<br />

experiencing Hurricane Dorian’s wind and<br />

rain from across the Atlantic, making our voyage<br />

all the more atmospheric and strangely<br />

similar to the seafaring conditions that<br />

required the assistance of lighthouse structures<br />

to prevent sailors from catastrophic shipwrecks.<br />

One of 11 heritage lighthouses on the Door<br />

County Lighthouse Tour, the Cana Island<br />

Lighthouse is 150 years old with an instagram-worthy<br />

wrought iron spiral staircase to<br />

be conquered if you want to reach the wondrous<br />

panoramic views at the finish line. I<br />

climbed the 102 winding steps trepidatiously,<br />

not wanting any vertigo to get in the way of<br />

experiencing the tower’s architecture, the<br />

enlightening view from the landing at the top<br />

of the tower, and its crowning glory: the giant<br />

Fresnel lens. Nothing captures the imagination<br />

of the sea better than an image of a lighthouse<br />

with crashing waves and the direct<br />

glow of light from the Fresnel lens casting its<br />

glare onto the water’s landscape for the safety<br />

of travelling ships and boats.<br />

Hygge and Hammocks<br />

Door County is a Swedish settlement, hence<br />

nods to Norwegian culture abound. It’s no<br />

wonder the Scandinavian concept of hygge<br />

seems to be the natural order of things here.<br />

With a population of around 27,000, it’s<br />

known for abundant shoreline, beaches and<br />

historic lighthouses that guard the peninsula<br />

off of Lake Michigan and Green Bay. Its five<br />

state parks offering everything from kayaking,<br />

hiking, camping and birdwatching make It a<br />

beacon for nature and outdoor enthusiasts<br />

year round.<br />

Its string of village main streets lined with artisan<br />

shops, craft breweries and bakeries serv-<br />

Cherie DeLory


ing up treats like the local specialty, cherry<br />

pie, make it easy to feel like this is a home<br />

away from home. That’s how I felt at<br />

Blacksmith Inn on the Shore, my bed and<br />

breakfast in quiet Baileys Harbor. This historic<br />

inn (circa 1907) was once the local blacksmith<br />

shop. The owners have since built a<br />

replica inn opposite the original, which is<br />

where I stayed. I was instantly won over by<br />

the lush flower garden surrounding the<br />

entrance and the intimacy and decor of the<br />

foyer, where treats are available 24/7.<br />

Popcorn, organic juices and homemade<br />

cherry oatmeal cookies. And it didn’t take<br />

long to test drive the hammock on my room’s<br />

balcony, which overlooks the greenery and<br />

bullrushes with the lake and dock beyond. I<br />

fell asleep to the sound of water lapping on<br />

the shore and the soft hue of the electric fireplace<br />

casting its glow across the room. I’d<br />

awake to glorious morning sunrises and the<br />

cheery calls of Red Winged Blackbirds.<br />

Ridges Sanctuary and a Sunset Cruise<br />

The quaint village of Baileys Harbor has a lot<br />

to offer, and the best part is that everything is<br />

within walking distance, with bikes available<br />

at the Inn. Next door is The Ridges, a diverse<br />

nature sanctuary covering 1,600 acres in and<br />

around the shoreline, with vast trails, wetlands,<br />

boreal forest, wildlife and wildflowers<br />

to explore. Don’t leave out a visit to the<br />

Nature Center and Baileys Harbor Range<br />

Lights, a pair of lighthouses situated at opposite<br />

ends of the boardwalk. I didn’t eat in<br />

town, but I stopped in for a latte at Bearded<br />

Heart Cafe and sampled a craft beer flight at<br />

Door County Brewing Company, the town’s<br />

saloon-style gathering spot with live music<br />

and a porch for watching the world go by.<br />

Watch the day slip away into night on the<br />

Sunset Live Music Cruise with Sister Bay<br />

Scenic Boat Tours debarking from the town of<br />

Sister Bay. This was a wonderful opportunity<br />

to witness my first mesmerizing Door County<br />

sunset, capture panoramic views of the coastline<br />

with its soaring limestone bluffs and<br />

underwater sea caves surrounding Cave<br />

Point County Park, looming lighthouses, and<br />

the table umbrellas dotting the patio of an<br />

atmospheric waterside restaurant. Fred &<br />

Fuzzy’s Waterfront Bar & Grill is located at<br />

Little Sister Resort, a cottage and camping<br />

ground in Sister Bay. Imagine my delight<br />

when a couple of days on I was able to enjoy<br />

their fish tacos and a cherry juice margarita<br />

sitting at the water’s edge, listening to live<br />

music, and taking in another glorious sunset.<br />

Lipstick Trees and Root Beer Floats<br />

Everyone loves cheese, but did you know that<br />

the orange colour can come from a lipstick<br />

tree? A lunch stop and cheese curd tasting at<br />

family-owned Renards Cheese in Sturgeon<br />

Bay was a tasty and educational experience.<br />

Other restaurants worth a reservation are<br />

Wild Tomato Wood-Fired Pizza and Grille in<br />

Sister Bay for their delicious wood-fired pizzas,<br />

Coyote Roadhouse in Baileys Harbor<br />

serves up cowboy portions in a proper western<br />

saloon ambiance. I recommend the<br />

baked beans and steak. Wilson’s Restaurant<br />

& Ice Cream Parlor in Ephraim is the spot for<br />

old fashioned home-brewed root beer ice<br />

cream sodas. Try Scaturo’s Baking Company<br />

and Cafe in Sturgeon Bay for brunch. My<br />

fried egg, sausages and french toast topped<br />

with warm cherries and whipped cream gets<br />

my vote for best brunch ever.<br />

Earth, Wind and Fire<br />

Cycling is my recreation of choice so to have<br />

the opportunity to explore Peninsula State<br />

Park on two wheels was exciting. Our bicycles<br />

were from Edge of Park Rentals, near the Fish<br />

Creek entrance of the bike trail. Sunset Trail<br />

is a 10-mile easy terrain that takes you<br />

through the woods and along the water’s<br />

edge. You’ll discover Eagle Bluff Lighthouse,<br />

Nicolet Bay Beach, and the Northern Sky<br />

Theatre Amphitheatre, a 650-seat outdoor<br />

theatre in the woods to enjoy live musicals<br />

during the summer.<br />

Want something a little different for dinner?<br />

Gather around the fire for a fish boil. The<br />

taste may not be for everyone, but it’s all<br />

about experiencing the local Scandinavian<br />

tradition. Rowleys Bay Resort in Ellison Bay is<br />

one of several resorts serving up the excitement.<br />

It’s raining, so inside the Master story<br />

teller regales us with entertaining stories<br />

about Rowelys Bay and its original settlers,<br />

the Potawatomi Indians, who enjoyed preparing<br />

their fish in this way. Outside, a large kettle<br />

is filled with Lake Michigan whitefish,<br />

caught daily, salt, red potatoes, and sweet<br />

onions. Listen for the school-bell. That’s when<br />

kerosene is thrown on the fire and the pot<br />

boils over resulting in raging flames. My timing<br />

was a little off so by the time I ran outside<br />

into the rain to snap a photo the flames had<br />

calmed down. Back inside the dining room I<br />

tasted the fish, and left plenty of room for<br />

Door County cherry pie.<br />

www.doorcounty.com<br />

65<br />

Cherie DeLory<br />

Cherie DeLory<br />

<strong>American</strong> <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveler</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2020</strong>


66<br />

Costa Rica: Listening to the Sounds of the Rainforest<br />

Article and photography by jennifer Merrick<br />

After an adventure-filled day exploring<br />

sites around Arenal Volcano in<br />

Costa Rica, we all felt a little dozy<br />

on the way back to our resort for the<br />

evening. So, we were almost stunned when<br />

we found ourselves pulled over on the<br />

shoulder of a main road. Had the vehicle<br />

broken down? Flat tire?<br />

“Howler monkeys,” announced our unflappable<br />

guide, Rhyan Cruz. He grabbed his<br />

ever-present telescope and led us out of the<br />

van. Sure enough, there were a troop of primates<br />

balancing on the hydro wires and<br />

bouncing around in the trees that lined the<br />

road. The monkeys lived up to their name,<br />

vocalizing loud, deep, barking-like bellows.<br />

Rhyan set up his telescope, and we did our<br />

best to get close-up shots of the playful creatures.<br />

But like monkeys do, they kept moving<br />

as soon as the focus was right.<br />

Howler monkeys are one of 250 species of<br />

mammals in Costa Rica, a country with one<br />

of the highest biodiversity in the world.<br />

Located in Central America above Panama,<br />

over a quarter of this small country the size<br />

of West Virginia, is protected wilderness.<br />

Though plentiful, some wildlife could be<br />

hard to spot without someone like Rhyan,<br />

who like all guides in Costa Rica had a<br />

license and extensive training. With a<br />

degree in eco-tourism and over 18 years of<br />

experience, Rhyan not only had a sharp eye<br />

but an expert ear.<br />

“We usually hear wildlife before we see<br />

them,” he told us. Howler monkeys were<br />

obvious, but others less so. He explained<br />

that the sound of the white-face monkey<br />

came from the throat. “Caww,” he mimicked.


“And spider monkeys sound like a rusty<br />

saw.”<br />

We saw these acrobatic monkeys, named<br />

for their spider-like appearance when they<br />

hang by their tails from trees, earlier that<br />

day at Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park.<br />

This 600-hectare property featured 16<br />

bridges – 10 fixed and 6 hanging – and led<br />

us through the cloud forest high above the<br />

jungle floor.<br />

Back in the van after saying adiosto the<br />

monkeys, we headed to Buena Vista Lodge,<br />

located in the more remote northern part of<br />

the country near the border of Nicaragua.<br />

Situated on the edge of the Rincon de la<br />

Vieja National Park, this eco-property<br />

offered plenty of opportunities to see and<br />

hear wildlife.<br />

The next day, as soon as I opened the door<br />

of our basic but comfortable room, I was<br />

greeted by a large iguana basking in the<br />

sun. And as I continued up to breakfast, several<br />

unusual-looking creatures I had never<br />

seen before crossed in front of my path.<br />

They had striped tails that stood upright and<br />

a long, pointed snout for a nose.<br />

“Coatis,” I was told later. These tree-climbing<br />

mammals were as common as racoons<br />

were to us.<br />

Activities at Buena Vista Lodge ranged from<br />

ziplining through the rainforest and mountain<br />

water slide to horseback riding and hiking.<br />

I opted for horseback riding, even<br />

though I had little equestrian experience;<br />

and I was grateful that my gentle horse was<br />

calm because I certainly wasn’t. But after<br />

about ten minutes of trying not to hyperventilate,<br />

I relaxed and looked around.<br />

Rewarded with incredible views of lush valleys,<br />

I breathed deeply and even loosened<br />

my white-knuckled grip on the reigns to take<br />

some pictures.<br />

Rhyan was doing what he did best –listening.<br />

At one point, he motioned for us to stop<br />

and pointed at the bushes. And there was<br />

the most extraordinary bird I had ever seen<br />

in the wild – a Yellow-throated Toucan.<br />

“I heard it,” he told us later. “Toucans<br />

crunch.”<br />

Besides the wildlife, what impressed me<br />

most about the Buena Vista Lodge was its<br />

commitment to sustainability. In the 1980s,<br />

the property was a cattle farm, and few had<br />

even heard of the word ‘eco-tourism’.<br />

“To be honest, people thought the owners<br />

were crazy at the beginning,” said Medardo<br />

Moscoso, the environment director at the<br />

lodge. “How could there be a hotel in such<br />

a remote place?” But the owners let some of<br />

the pastures return to the forest and<br />

constructed a few stone buildings.<br />

“And people started coming and were<br />

impressed to see the wildlife,” said<br />

Medardo. Approximately 70 percent of the<br />

properties 2000 acres is being reforested,<br />

and the remaining was used as pastures.<br />

Mecardo explained that they produced<br />

much of what the resort needed themselves–vegetables,<br />

meat, dairy, eggs and<br />

even the soap in the 76 rooms. The soap<br />

was made from the waste cooking oil from<br />

the kitchen and was just one of the environmental<br />

initiatives he managed.<br />

“You know the food you’ve been eating was<br />

cooked with farts?”<br />

“No idea,” I answered, glad I had finished<br />

my lunch.<br />

We were shown the lodge’s ‘biodigestor’.<br />

This contraption, the first of its kind in Costa<br />

Rica, fermented manure, producing heat<br />

that was piped through the resort. Other<br />

projects included working with native<br />

species of bees and monitoring trails with<br />

camera traps to ensure activities had limited<br />

impact to wildlife. Medardo created a ‘sustainability<br />

tour’ for guests to see all their<br />

innovative initiatives.<br />

There was a lot to explore on our own at the<br />

resort as well. A 35-minute hike or 15-<br />

minute tractor ride away was the beautiful<br />

Pacayas Waterfall. A little farther were the<br />

thermal hot springs, where we soaked away<br />

tired muscles in its natural pools and<br />

slathered on mineral muds that softened the<br />

skin.<br />

All around was lush vegetation and exotic<br />

birds, butterflies and creatures like the<br />

agoutis that looked like a pet guinea pig<br />

only with long legs. There were sounds, too,<br />

but I’d need a few more lessons from our<br />

guide, Rhyan, before I could tell you what I<br />

was listening to.<br />

www.visitcostarica.com<br />

www.buenavistadelrincon.com<br />

67<br />

<strong>American</strong> <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveler</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2020</strong>


68<br />

Photo: Plantation Adventure Center<br />

Central Florida is Packed with Adventure and Lifetime Experiences!<br />

Article and photography by Michael Morcos<br />

IIs it possible to visit central Florida and<br />

not go to Orlando with all its theme<br />

parks and still have fun? You bet! We<br />

would do just that on a week-long journey<br />

that would feature an amazing swim with<br />

Manatees in Crystal River, having an out of<br />

this world experience at the Space Coast and<br />

having a kaleidoscope of contrasting fun<br />

experiences in Polk county.<br />

Crystal River<br />

Our journey would start in Crystal River,<br />

known as the best place in the world to see<br />

and (legally) swim with Manatees. Manatees<br />

can only be described as funny looking seals,<br />

only they are far from that. They are primarily<br />

found in the ocean where they feed on<br />

aquatic plants. So where does the Crystal<br />

River come in? Manatees cannot handle cold<br />

water and between November and April they<br />

head inwards to warmer waters. Crystal River<br />

and, in particular, the area known as the<br />

Three Sisters <strong>Spring</strong>s Refuge, is a favourite for<br />

them because there are underground springs<br />

blasting millions of gallons of fresh water at a<br />

perfect 20 degrees Celsius.<br />

Our scheduled departure by boat was at 6:30<br />

AM. On this day the temperature was unlike<br />

Florida, at slightly above freezing, which<br />

would seem an unlikely time for a swim. But<br />

the Manatee Gods were with us. This was the<br />

perfect time. The ocean was freezing, and our<br />

lovely friends would move inland by the hundreds.<br />

The amazing and professional crew at the<br />

Plantation Adventure Center dive shop knew


what they were doing and precisely where to<br />

go for sightings. After fitting us with the best<br />

wet suits on the market, we would lazily navigate<br />

the canals which had a mysterious morning<br />

fog rising from the water. A breathtaking<br />

sight on its own.<br />

Even early in the morning, the Three Sisters<br />

<strong>Spring</strong>s Refuge was full of people all enjoying<br />

the magnificence of being in fresh warm<br />

water with the gentle giants. Following protocol,<br />

we would only observe the Manatees and<br />

were only allowed to touch them if they came<br />

to us. Two hours passed in a flash, but we left<br />

with lifelong memories and for some - a<br />

check off their travel bucket list.<br />

Other activities on this visit included the Ellie<br />

Schiller Homosassa <strong>Spring</strong>s Wildlife State<br />

Park. This is a refuge for animals that would<br />

otherwise not survive in the wild. To our<br />

amazement, amongst the many diverse animals<br />

there that included many specious of<br />

beautiful birds, was an actual Hippo. Yes, off<br />

all things, so far from home yet so happy in<br />

this sanctuary.<br />

Our thirst and appetite were well served in<br />

downtown Crystal River, including wonderfully<br />

prepared mix drinks at the redesigned Crew<br />

Bar, and large juicy steaks at Vintage on 5th.<br />

Beautiful ending to a great day in a quaint<br />

and charming town.<br />

Which way to the beach?<br />

Travel for me is about doing new things. This<br />

trip to the Space Coast would give me a<br />

chance to see and participate in yet more<br />

wonderful experiences. The Space Coast is<br />

more than what people think of, being the<br />

place that launches humans into outer space.<br />

It also has some fantastic beaches, 71 miles<br />

in all. During our short stay here, we would<br />

visit the Kennedy Space Centre and the following<br />

morning take surfing lessons.<br />

Kennedy Space Center<br />

Getting there early in the morning before the<br />

masses arrived would have us right at the<br />

front of the gates of the Kennedy Space<br />

Center and we would enter right after the<br />

singing of the <strong>American</strong> national anthem.<br />

Right up front were the amazing spacecraft in<br />

the rocket garden, they took my breath away.<br />

These are the things of a little boy’s dreams. I<br />

felt small and humbled beside them, who<br />

could not.<br />

All the while running to beat the crowds, we<br />

would find ourselves at the Space Shuttle<br />

Atlantis Pavilion. There I would marvel at the<br />

building while climbing upwards to a theatre<br />

that showed the launching of the shuttle in a<br />

large room with screens on most sides. Then<br />

it happened, the movie ended, the front curtain<br />

rose, and I was speechless. Right in front<br />

of me was the star, a space star. It was the<br />

actual ship, the Atlantis that flew 33 space<br />

missions over 26 years was now hanging<br />

slightly sideways with its bay door open. It was<br />

a sight I would remember for life.<br />

The rest of the full and glorious day was spent<br />

on more amazing experiences. We tried the<br />

incredible Shuttle Launch Experience, a<br />

thrilling ride that heightened all the senses.<br />

We would also have a delicious buffet style<br />

lunch with the retired astronaut John-David<br />

Bartoe who spoke of his time spent in the<br />

space station. Had some astronaut training<br />

experience and finally a tour by coach of the<br />

Cape Canaveral grounds where we saw the<br />

NASA hangers and launch pad of the Apollo<br />

missions. To add to this, on this tour we would<br />

be interrupted by an unscheduled moving of<br />

a Space X rocket to its hanger.<br />

Later supper at the Westgate Cocoa Beach<br />

Pier was a perfect way of ending our day as<br />

we would feast on the best the ocean has to<br />

offer.<br />

Hang Ten at the Ron Jon Surf School<br />

The following day brought us a whole new<br />

experience and a great appreciation for surfing.<br />

We would get lessons at the Ron Jon surf<br />

school, call it a crash course on how to get up<br />

from a surfboard when you hit the perfect<br />

wave. That was easy, really easy, on dry land.<br />

A short walk to the beach and the students –<br />

‘surfers to be’ were taken one by one by a<br />

professional staff member into the waves and<br />

surf. Long story short, it was a disaster, most<br />

of our attempts found us splashing on our<br />

backs into salty water, but at least it was a<br />

warm, sunny day and we would treasure this<br />

experience as another once-in-a-lifetime<br />

event.<br />

see following page<br />

69<br />

<strong>American</strong> <strong>World</strong> <strong>Traveler</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2020</strong>


Welcome to Polk County<br />

Was Polk a former US president asked one of<br />

our traveling companions? Indeed, he was.<br />

Not ever knowing this, or that a Polk county<br />

even existed, we would be treated to more<br />

amazing adventures at the Safari Wilderness<br />

Ranch, visit the fun LEGOLAND Florida<br />

Resort, the beautiful Bok Tower Gardens and<br />

exciting Westgate River Ranch Resort.<br />

A visit to Safari Wilderness Ranch would bring<br />

us real close to some beautiful free-roaming<br />

animals, there from the comfort of an openair<br />

bus we had the chance at feeding friendly<br />

water buffalos and antelopes. Would like to<br />

include Ostrich to the list but these guys were<br />

pests, grabbing whatever they could find.<br />

Besides the land tour we would come to the<br />

best part of the visit, which wasn’t the camels<br />

nor the funny looking hogs, it was the Lemurs.<br />

Wonderful, playful little monkeys! With food in<br />

hand, they grab you with their soft tiny palms<br />

and gently eat the treat. Another wonderful<br />

experience!<br />

Bok Tower Gardens<br />

Bok Garden Tower, what a strange name for<br />

a tourist attraction I thought, but within minutes<br />

of my arrival I was in love with this place<br />

and there in the distance it was – the tower,<br />

mystery explained. Away from everything, this<br />

50-acre property is an architectural gardening<br />

gem and what brought it all together was<br />

the tall singing tower. Throughout the day you<br />

would hear live music on its 60-bell carillon.<br />

A peaceful and uplifting day as we strolled<br />

past ponds and a maze of beautiful flowering<br />

beds.<br />

Westgate River Ranch<br />

A destination on its own, the Westgate River<br />

Ranch has something for every age and taste,<br />

including quirky accommodations that range<br />

from safari style tents to luxury tepees and<br />

right up to full two-bedroom cabins. The highlight<br />

of the week’s events is the Saturday<br />

rodeo when the ranch swells to its maximum<br />

capacity. With so many activities to choose<br />

from, it would take a full week to participate<br />

in them. Our day long visit would have us on<br />

an air boat through the river front to spot<br />

birds and alligators. This would prove another<br />

first for me and I loved the speed, noise<br />

and rush of air from the massive boat fan.<br />

Another first for me was at the trap and skeet<br />

range. Here, with the help of an instructor, we<br />

would also find out that this is really a difficult<br />

skill to shoot a clay pigeon in flight.<br />

LEGOLAND<br />

Last but certainly not least was a day spent in<br />

LEGOLAND. This park was built on the old<br />

Cypress Gardens grounds and the rest was<br />

built one brick at a time, so to speak. I marvelled<br />

at the imagination of the LEGO staff,<br />

how they can create such works of modern art<br />

with just little pieces of plastic. Although most<br />

of the rides were ‘pink knuckle’, my favourite<br />

was the Great LEGO Race with the virtual<br />

reality option. Although the ride itself looks<br />

tame from ground level, the actual experience<br />

brings you into a colourful and comical landscape<br />

and heightens all the senses. One more<br />

wonderful first for me!<br />

Balmoral Clubhouse<br />

Our stay in Polk country was at the beautiful<br />

and well-manicured gated properties at<br />

Balmoral. Packed with creature comforts, it<br />

was a perfect way of relaxing and rejuvenating<br />

from the day’s events and still so close to<br />

all the attractions, it is the perfect home away<br />

from home, maybe even better than home!<br />

www.visitflorida.com

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