Jewellery World Magazine - March 2020

Jewellery World Magazine is Australia and New Zealand's largest circulation jewellery trade magazine. This issue focuses on custom and bespoke jewellery.

Jewellery World Magazine is Australia and New Zealand's largest circulation jewellery trade magazine. This issue focuses on custom and bespoke jewellery.


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MARCH <strong>2020</strong><br />



It all comes together at Palloys<br />

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Your singular destination for all things jewellery<br />

Combining AGS Metals|PJW, A&E Metals, Regentco and Palloys all in the one place, Palloys<br />

1300 886 108 | AUSTRALIA WIDE<br />


<strong>Jewellery</strong> <strong>World</strong> <strong>Magazine</strong><br />

ABN: 41 143 385 895<br />

ISSN: 2207-6751<br />

PO Box 54, Camden NSW 2570<br />

P: 0431 844 903<br />

Subscription: www.jewelleryworld.net.au<br />

Enquiries: info@jewelleryworld.net.au<br />

Web: www.jewelleryworld.net.au<br />

managing director<br />

Jeremy Keight 0431 844 903<br />

jeremy@jewelleryworld.net.au<br />

editor<br />

editor@jewelleryworld.net.au<br />

contributing writers<br />

Kirsten Ehrlich Davies<br />

Stefan Juengling<br />

Cheryl D Harty<br />


6 News<br />

12 Palloy's Points<br />

14 Trade Well with Rami Baron<br />

16 JAA News<br />

36 Keeping Skills Alive<br />

38 Watches<br />

42 New Products<br />

43 Directory<br />


20<br />

28<br />

art<br />

design@jewelleryworld.net.au<br />

advertising sales<br />

sales@jewelleryworld.net.au<br />

20 Top tips to maximise sales for Mother's Day<br />

We talk to three top retailers and get their tips<br />

for success this Mother's Day.<br />

26 AGHA Show Report<br />

The <strong>Jewellery</strong> <strong>World</strong> Pavilion at the AGHA Gift<br />

Fair was a success for all involved.<br />

34<br />

28 Making Out<br />

Manufacturing the jewellery we love - how<br />

tech has changed the custom-made space.<br />


This publication may not be reproduced<br />

in whole or part without the written<br />

permission of the Publisher.<br />

Articles express the opinions of the<br />

authors and are not necessarily those of the<br />

Publisher or Editor. Mention of a product or<br />

service in this magazine does not indicate the<br />

Publisher’s endorsement.<br />

The Publisher excludes all liability for<br />

loss resulting from any inaccuracies or false<br />

or misleading statements that may appear<br />

in this publication.<br />

All information is copyright.<br />

32 Jeweller Profile<br />

KL Diamonds offer us a peak into their<br />

showroom and workshop.<br />

34 <strong>2020</strong> Diamond Guild Australia Awards<br />

Entries are open for this year's jewellery design<br />

awards.<br />


MARCH <strong>2020</strong><br />



Ellani Collections<br />

www.ellanicollections.com.au<br />

4<br />

jewellery world - <strong>March</strong> <strong>2020</strong>

All Silver is Rhodium Plated<br />

• Sydney AGHA Gift Fair - February 21-24, <strong>2020</strong> (Homebush)<br />

• International <strong>Jewellery</strong> Fair -September 12-14, <strong>2020</strong> (Darling Harbour)<br />


News<br />

Sustainable jewellery at the BAFTAs<br />

Lucara unearths 549ct diamond<br />

Continuing its extraordinary run of exceptional diamond discoveries, Lucara<br />

Diamond Corp has unearthed an unbroken 549 carat white diamond from its<br />

Karowe Diamond Mine in Botswana. The diamond “of exceptional purity” is the<br />

fourth largest diamond ever retrieved from the mine and the sixth diamond over<br />

100 carats recovered by Lucara in <strong>2020</strong>.<br />

Independent analyst Paul Zimnisky has stated that the stone is also the fourth gemquality<br />

stone over 500 carats to be recovered globally within the last 5 years.<br />

The 549-carat diamond was recovered in the Mega Diamond Recovery (MDR) XRT<br />

circuit when the diamond is recovered between the processes of crushing and<br />

milling. A gem quality 176-carat stone was previously recovered from the same ore<br />

block.<br />

Lucara will make a decision regarding the sale of both stones in due course.<br />

"Lucara is extremely pleased to be starting off <strong>2020</strong> with the recovery of two, large,<br />

high quality diamonds that builds on the positive momentum generated following<br />

the completion of a strong Q4 sale in December and the announcement of our<br />

ground breaking partnership with Louis Vuitton on the Sewelô in January," said Eira<br />

Thomas, Lucara's CEO.<br />

Guests at the 73rd annual British Academy Film Awards in<br />

London were asked to make “sustainable” fashion choices<br />

by hiring or rewearing their fashionable outfits.<br />

Thankfully most guests already had a sustainable stash of<br />

Tiffany, Harry Winston and Cartier, so their second-hand<br />

gowns still glittered.<br />

The Duchess of Cambridge wore a gold embroidered<br />

gown, previously featured during a 2013 tour of South-<br />

East Asia, along with a Van Cleef& Arpels necklace and<br />

matching earrings.<br />

Charlize Theron may have broken the “rewear” rule with<br />

her choice of an exclusive 14 carat rose gold choker handset<br />

with more than 240 diamonds from the new Tiffany<br />

T1 collection, set to launch in April <strong>2020</strong>, and paired with<br />

three sets of Tiffany stud earrings.<br />

Zoe Kravitz nailed the “sustainability” directive with a<br />

warm glowing pair of coral pendant drop earrings, crafted<br />

from ethical and sustainable Sardinian coral by Assael.<br />

Sarah Ferguson to launch lifestyle brand<br />

While the Duke and Duchess of Sussex struggle to<br />

negotiate for approval of their Sussex Royal brand, so<br />

they can sell almost everything without capitalising<br />

on their royal connection, the Duchess of York has<br />

been inspired to do something similar. The former<br />

wife of Prince Andrew is set to launch her own lifestyle<br />

brand, Duchess Inc which will feature everything from<br />

homewares to convenience foods. The brand will<br />

feature an “accessible premium” range of jewellery<br />

which will also be available for purchase through QVC,<br />

an American free-to-air home shopping channel.<br />

Hong Kong trade fair postponed<br />

Two jewellery trade shows due to be held in Hong Kong in <strong>March</strong> have been postponed<br />

until May due to safety concerns in the wake of the coronavirus epidemic.<br />

The Hong Kong International Diamond, Gem & Pearl Show, organised by the Hong Kong<br />

Trade Development Council (HKTDC) specialises in showcasing raw materials of the<br />

jewellery trade in special zones such as The Hall of Fine Diamonds, The Treasures of<br />

Nature (coloured gemstones) and Treasures of the Ocean (pearls).<br />

In 2019, the event attracted more than 1,990 international exhibitors along with buyers<br />

from 145 countries. Now in its seventh year, it was intended to be held concurrently<br />

with the Hong Kong International <strong>Jewellery</strong> Show, yet they have now been postponed<br />

until May 18-21. They will still be held concurrently at the Asia<strong>World</strong> Expo.<br />

6<br />

jewellery world - <strong>March</strong> <strong>2020</strong>

News<br />

Diamonds rule at the Oscars<br />

Iconic jewellery designers were well represented on the<br />

red carpet at the Academy Awards – with the work of<br />

Harry Winston, Cartier, Bulgari and Chopard all featured.<br />

Double nominee Scarlett Johannsen wore $2.5 million<br />

worth of Forevermark diamonds in an understated style,<br />

with just earrings and a bracelet, yet no necklace with her<br />

strapless dress.<br />

In contrast, presenter Zazie Beetz wore a spectacular<br />

white gold Bulgari High Jewelry necklace set with an oval<br />

emerald, 84 buff top emeralds and pave-set diamonds,<br />

along with matching emerald and diamond earrings and<br />

ring.<br />

Actress Mindy Kaling wore several Chopard jewels<br />

including a necklace with 78.46 crats of marquise-cut<br />

diamonds and 46.33 carats of round-shaped diamonds in<br />

white gold along with earrings from the Haute Joaillerie<br />

collection.<br />

Director Greta Gerwig also wore Bulgari emeralds, with<br />

a classic High Jewelry platinum necklace featuring seven<br />

emerald beads, 14 pear diamonds and 32 round diamonds<br />

and pave-set diamonds.<br />

Beat your mug with ... diamonds<br />

Actor Tomothee Chalamet<br />

also dazzled, wearing a Cartier<br />

brooch on his navy blazer, while<br />

other male stars such as Antonio<br />

Banderas and Rami Malek<br />

focusing their style on their<br />

time pieces – Banderas wore<br />

an understated slimline Bulgari Octo Finissimo and<br />

Malek wore a vintage-style Pasha de Cartier watch.<br />

There is a new spin on the old line “diamonds are forever” – now diamond facials<br />

are being promoted as the latest anti-ageing product.<br />

Some cosmetic companies are marketing a facial scrub containing diamond dust<br />

or diamond ash, which presumably works as the magic ingredient to smooth,<br />

brighten and rejuvenate the skin. Other options include a non-invasive cosmetic<br />

procedure using a diamond-tipped tool to cleanse and exfoliate the skin.<br />

If diamond face cream isn’t decadent (ridiculous?) enough, powdered pearls are<br />

also popular cosmetic products, believed to regenerate the skin and boosting<br />

elasticity. Gold face masks are also available, involving 24-karat gold leaf<br />

massaged onto the skin so the antioxidant properties can eliminate toxins and<br />

fight sun damage.<br />

Rickshaw driver returns diamonds<br />

A woman from the city of Pune in western<br />

India is thankful for the honesty of her rickshaw<br />

driver, after she left a bag containing diamond<br />

jewellery valued at AU$14,000 in his vehicle<br />

after a shopping trip with her daughter.<br />

After dropping her daughter at a bus stop,<br />

Shobha Sandeep Lunkad alighted the vehicle<br />

at her son’s office, forgetting to take the bag<br />

which contained a diamond bracelet and<br />

earrings along with clothing from the shopping<br />

trip. She immediately notified police, but while<br />

they were questioning autorickshaw drivers,<br />

Lundak’s driver voluntarily brought the bag to<br />

the police station.<br />

The police were also so impressed by the<br />

integrity of driver Tukaram Yadavrao Kale, they<br />

held a function in his honour at the police<br />

station the next evening.<br />

Facebook launches a Pinterest clone<br />

Coz we all need yet another social media app in<br />

our lives... Released in a small number of countries<br />

so far but bound to spread if it succeeds, Hobbi<br />

is Facebook’s latest attempt to ensure total world<br />

domination. Aimed at hobbyists, but likely to be useful<br />

for jewellers because of its project-based nature, the<br />

app can assemble boards in a similar way to Pinterest.<br />

Google also<br />

recently released a<br />

similar app called<br />

Tangi. Both apps<br />

point to a return<br />

to the original<br />

‘feelz’ behind<br />

Instagram—<br />

genuine stories<br />

and personal<br />

development.<br />

People are still<br />

searching for stuff<br />

that makes them feel good. Inspirational jewellery<br />

designs that reach out to desires might just be well<br />

suited to these new apps.<br />

8<br />

jewellery world - <strong>March</strong> <strong>2020</strong>

News<br />

The Cartiers is packed with lessons<br />

A fascinating read for anyone in the industry, The<br />

Cartiers by Francesca Cartier Bricknell is the story of<br />

the family behind the brand and the three brothers<br />

who turned their grandfather’s humble jewellery<br />

store into a global luxury icon.<br />

From revolutionary France to the 1960s, at the<br />

heart of the tale are the three Cartier men whose<br />

motto was “Never copy, only create” — a mantra<br />

that is especially relevant to jewellers and designers<br />

today. The trials of running a family business are also<br />

examined. In the case of the Cartiers, the brothers<br />

succeeded because of their individual strengths.<br />

Louis was a visionary designer who took the helm in<br />

Paris, Pierre was the master dealmaker who bought<br />

the New York headquarters on Fifth Avenue for a double-stranded natural pearl<br />

necklace, and Jacques headed the London operation and travelled the globe using<br />

his gemstone knowledge to secure the best in rubies, emeralds and sapphires<br />

from India.<br />

Author Francesca Cartier Brickell is the great grand-daughter of the youngest of<br />

the brothers, and, after discovering a trunk in her grandfather’s attic packed with<br />

sketchbooks and correspondence, has spent the intervening ten years working<br />

on the history of her family and one of the world’s greatest brands. Her research<br />

reveals never-before-told dramas, romances, intrigues, betrayals, and more.<br />

The book takes a behind-the-scenes view at some of the most iconic pieces of<br />

jewellery—from the cursed Hope Diamond, the emeralds of the Russian Czars and<br />

the classic panther pieces, to the legends of film and fashion who wore them—<br />

Wallis Simpson, Coco Chanel, Elizabeth Taylor, Indian maharajas and Russian grand<br />

duchesses.<br />

The company survived two world wars and the Great Depression of the 1930s<br />

and has continued to succeed since being sold to Richemont in 1964. The book<br />

examines the values the company’s founders held that were essential to the<br />

brand’s success and makes compelling reading for anyone interested in jewellery,<br />

marketing and branding.<br />

The Cartiers: The Untold Story of the Family Behind the <strong>Jewellery</strong> Empire is<br />

published by Ballantine Books and is available from all online bookstores.<br />

Gold hits a 7-year high<br />

The spot price of gold hasn’t been higher in seven<br />

years. As of the final week of February, gold was<br />

trading at US$1,621 per ounce, a level last seen in<br />

2013.<br />

Analysts expect the upward trend to continue<br />

blaming negative real interest rates, unsteady world politics and<br />

the threat of virus. Experts at Citibank predicted last year that gold<br />

India’s first carbon-neutral diamond<br />

company<br />

Star Rays, a De Beers sightholder and one of India’s<br />

leading diamond companies, is taking steps to become<br />

the country’s first carbon-neutral diamond trader.<br />

Working with carbon consultancy, Carbon Expert,<br />

Star Rays is committing to the <strong>World</strong> <strong>Jewellery</strong><br />

Confederation’s (CIBJO) greenhouse gas measuring and<br />

offsetting programme.<br />

“Global warming and climate change have come to the<br />

fore as a key issue in sustainable development,” said<br />

Star Rays partner Jitesh Shah in a statement. “Every<br />

human activity in the world releases carbon dioxide.<br />

We are committed to reducing carbon emissions at<br />

every step in our business and personal life.”<br />

The company<br />

added in a<br />

statement,<br />

“The natural<br />

diamond<br />

industry<br />

is moving toward a carbon-neutral future, with an<br />

increased use of renewable energy sources in various<br />

mines.”<br />

Star Rays runs a manufacturing facility in Surat, India<br />

that turns out 60,000 cut and polished solitaires each<br />

year. Since 2019, the company also owns a subsidiary<br />

company in Gaborone, Botswana.<br />

Major brands around the world are committing to<br />

become carbon-neutral following CIBJO’s lead. Pandora<br />

has announced its intension to reach a carbonneutral<br />

target by 2025, while lab-grown diamond<br />

producer Diamond Foundry has already been certified<br />

carbon-neutral.<br />

De Beers also has a five year target for its mining<br />

sector after the development of technology that allows<br />

carbon capture and storage in the kimberlite, the rock<br />

that natural diamonds are extracted from.<br />

would reach US$2,000 over the following two<br />

years, but have now adjusted the short-term<br />

forecast saying they expect it to reach US$1,700<br />

in the next six months.<br />

Jewellers in America report the market in<br />

‘trade-in’ gold is heating up again.<br />

10<br />

jewellery world - <strong>March</strong> <strong>2020</strong>

News<br />

<strong>2020</strong> CIBJO Congress set for Dubai<br />

CIBJO, the <strong>World</strong> <strong>Jewellery</strong> Confederation, will hold its <strong>2020</strong> annual congress in<br />

Dubai, United Arab Emirates (UAE), from October 5 to October 7.<br />

The <strong>2020</strong> congress will be hosted by DMCC (Dubai Multi-Commodities Centre),<br />

one of the world’s leading free zones, which is tasked by the Government of Dubai<br />

Authority to drive commodities trade and enterprise. With more than 17,000<br />

businesses registered, DMCC sits at the heart of the region’s growing jewellery trade,<br />

and is home to the Dubai Diamond Exchange (DDE), the only <strong>World</strong> Federation of<br />

Diamond Bourses (WFDB) accredited bourse in the Arabian Gulf.<br />

It is the second time that a CIBJO Congress will have taken place in Dubai, with the<br />

first being held there in 2008, when it also was hosted by DMCC.<br />

CIBJO congresses serve as the official gathering place for the <strong>World</strong> <strong>Jewellery</strong><br />

Confederation’s Assembly of Delegates.<br />

Almas Tower, the headquarters of DMCC in the heart of Dubai,<br />

selected as the venue for <strong>2020</strong> CIBJO Congress.<br />

They are also the venue for the annual meetings of CIBJO’s sectoral commissions, where amendments can be introduced to the organisation’s<br />

definitive directories of international industry standards for diamonds, coloured stones, pearls, gem labs, precious metals, coral and<br />

responsible sourcing, known as the Blue Books.


Chris Botha,<br />

Operations Manager, <strong>Jewellery</strong> Division<br />

Palloys<br />



Is there truly any diversity in the commercial jewellery market,<br />

outside of the non-traditional jewellers who have achieved a solid<br />

business base?<br />

Consumers have come to expect that<br />

they will not see anything new or<br />

different at the jewellery store and<br />

instead simply see a new iteration of an<br />

existing design.<br />

The focus these days seems to be on price<br />

differentiation through online vs bricks and<br />

mortar.<br />

The jewellery industry has a jewellery<br />

manufacturing sector that does not innovate<br />

beyond the known selling factors, the metal,<br />

the stones and the labour. Whereas the “art”<br />

jewellery sector, while smaller, is constantly<br />

innovating. The dominant focus of the<br />

jewellery manufacturing sector has been to<br />

reduce the production costs of existing known<br />

sellers.<br />

Having worked in many jewellery<br />

manufacturing plants around the world, I<br />

have witnessed the bare minimum in design<br />

processes taking place, with little evident<br />

innovation., Over the last 30 years I still see<br />

the exact same designs returning seasonally.<br />

What is noted is that variants of the same<br />

process occur, jewellers are finding a “new”<br />

design concept, meaning they are finding<br />

a new way to set a stone, a better colour<br />

combination and are modifying it from the<br />

original copy by producing it in a sellable price<br />

point which creates the “mini-fads” that are<br />

born each year.<br />

When a jeweller bases their designs at a low<br />

price point, we find a way to use the minimum<br />

gold and diamonds and won’t consider that<br />

a much more substantial and striking piece<br />

can be produced in a non-precious material<br />

instead. Some jewellers are now incorporating<br />

elements like carbon fibre or even wood<br />

in their product, but the essential shapes<br />

12<br />

jewellery world - <strong>March</strong> <strong>2020</strong>

and designs are still<br />

limited to classic sellers,<br />

these parts then also<br />

negatively impacted<br />

by the stigma of being<br />

non-precious, reducing<br />

pricing even more.<br />

If all the products in the<br />

market are essentially the<br />

same, then the only thing any<br />

customer will care about is<br />

price. Once customers only<br />

care about price, the market<br />

starts bleeding value.<br />

The process in mass manufacturing is even less exciting, all the<br />

brochures from every jeweller in the world will be torn up and<br />

categorised into groupings of colour and price point, common<br />

threads in the groupings will be ascertained and “designers” then<br />

produce Nth iterations for the next season.<br />

Here’s a simple rule about market value to consider: If all the<br />

products in the market are essentially the same, then the only<br />

thing any customer will care about is price. Once customers<br />

only care about price, the market starts bleeding value. What is<br />

left after this occurs? Simply the sum of the parts; in this case,<br />

the market value of the gemstones and precious metals. After<br />

that, returning the market to a state of added value is extremely<br />

painful, if not impossible, selling compiled materials is a sale<br />

on the components plus a mark-up, when you sell design, the<br />

components are the least of the price, the novelty, originality,<br />

exclusivity are the selling points.<br />

Palloys has partnered with some amazing jewellery innovators<br />

over the years and supported them through the Palloys range of<br />

services, harnessing a jeweller’s ability to design and innovate.<br />

Over the next few months Palloys will be undergoing some<br />

structural changes, adding additional services and products, truly<br />

making Palloys the one source for all your jewellery needs.<br />

LUXURY pearl AND opal JEWELLERY<br />

www.ikecho.com.au | enquiries@ikecho.com.au


An old-fashioned concept, loyalty is critical in any successful<br />

industry. But are we doing enough to nurture loyalty in ours?<br />

I<br />

I think we first need to ask ourselves what<br />

our definition of loyalty in the diamond<br />

and jewellery space is today. The simple<br />

definition of loyalty is a feeling of strong<br />

support or allegiance.<br />

I heard a quote many years ago that said:<br />

“Business must be run at a profit or<br />

else it will die. However, a business run<br />

solely for profit will also die.”<br />

Much of our trade is made up of small and<br />

medium sized businesses, which could not<br />

survive without long-standing relationships<br />

and the loyalty that comes with them.<br />

My problem is that in the last few weeks, I<br />

have heard so many different instances of<br />

long-standing business relationships in our<br />

industry which have been destroyed in an<br />

instant. The sad part is that both parties (or<br />

one party) failed to stop and think about all<br />

the favours, special instances of pricing or<br />

express posting urgent items etc that may<br />

have been provided in the past, only to have<br />

one mistake on an invoice result in a 10 year<br />

relationship being chucked out the window.<br />

One example that was recently shared with<br />

me was that of a local diamond wholesaler<br />

who brought an error made on an invoice to a<br />

retailer’s attention. The wholesaler was simply<br />

brushed off by the retailer and told to wear<br />

it. Needless to say that was the end of that<br />

relationship. Do we really have so little respect<br />

for each other? Are we oblivious to the age<br />

old saying “what goes around comes around”?<br />

I will share with you three strategies by which<br />

I live by.<br />

1. Treat everyone the same way that you<br />

want to be treated.<br />

We can all make mistakes. Before you cut<br />

someone off, don’t act impulsively, even if<br />

you’re really angry and frustrated. Tell them<br />

you want to think about it for a day or two.<br />

This gives yourself the time needed to think<br />

through how best to deal with it. You might<br />

even want to ask others, which goes to my<br />

second strategy.<br />

2. Never make important decisions when<br />

you’re angry.<br />

You never know when you need someone<br />

again in the future. Let’s say a merchant sold<br />

you a stone and the invoice showed a price<br />

that was a few thousand dollars less than what<br />

14<br />

jewellery world - <strong>March</strong> <strong>2020</strong>


Rami Baron<br />

President, Diamond Dealers Club of Australia<br />

rami@ddca.org.au<br />

it should have been. Yes, you sold the stone in<br />

good faith based on the invoice and in many<br />

cases, you didn’t check it further. You based<br />

your mark-up on the cost of the stone. Now<br />

the merchant comes back and says I made a<br />

mistake, I sold it to you below my cost, can we<br />

do something about it? Many retailers would<br />

say tough luck, that’s your problem. However,<br />

those who have a relationship of trust and one<br />

of loyalty, might end up expressing the same<br />

thoughts but in a different manner – “give me<br />

a day or two to think about it, I might not be<br />

able to help you out on this one, I’ll get back<br />

to you”.<br />

The bottom line is that even if you chose not<br />

to do anything different, you at least validated<br />

the relationship and your loyalty means you<br />

didn’t destroy it in a moment of frustration,<br />

with no compassion for the error on the other<br />

side. The fact that that you were prepared to<br />

take the time and consider how you may be<br />

able to help is sometimes all that’s needed.<br />

3. Your reputation is never measured by<br />

what people say to you face-to-face, it’s how<br />

they talk about you when you’re not there.<br />

As much as you may think suppliers don’t<br />

speak to each other, they do far more than<br />

you realise. They will repeat the stories of<br />

those who burnt them and acted in a manner<br />

which showed no loyalty and respect.<br />

I was speaking to a very successful diamond<br />

retailer who was describing to me his early<br />

experience when he set up the business. The<br />

previous owner of the business had significant<br />

business debts. So when the current owner<br />

bought this existing business, suppliers were<br />

reluctant to give them credit.<br />

He went to one local diamond wholesaler<br />

who accepted that he didn’t have to be<br />

responsible for the previous owner’s<br />

mistakes and extended credit to him. Today,<br />

this retailer could purchase all his diamonds<br />

direct from India, but in his own words he<br />

stated:<br />

“This local wholesaler backed me when no<br />

one else would. I’m a very loyal sort of guy,<br />

no National matter what I Wine buy from Centre overseas, I will<br />

always support this local wholesaler with a<br />

Adelaide<br />

percentage of my purchases.”<br />

17th - 18th July <strong>2020</strong><br />

There is no doubt that due to the<br />

Networking | Training | Expert Advice | Business<br />

competitive nature of the world we are<br />

This in, Industry we will first look event to source will give you many the products resources<br />

and network, so that you can concentrate on<br />

overseas. However, what the world is<br />

providing your customers with beautiful<br />

experiencing jewellery today experiences. with the coronavirus<br />

means that you may not always be able to<br />

www.<strong>Jewellery</strong>IndustrySummit.com<br />

source overseas. So how do you want local<br />

businesses to survive?<br />

I’m not suggesting for one moment you<br />

need to be a charity, but I believe that one<br />

can have more open and frank discussions<br />

with local suppliers as to how one can<br />

work together, play to their strengths and<br />

find ways that they can future proof your<br />

business and still be competitive.<br />

There is a wonderful initiative happening<br />

in July, and that is the <strong>Jewellery</strong> Industry<br />

Summit in Adelaide.<br />

It’s a space where people from the trade<br />

can meet, share ideas, learn new things and<br />

National Wine Centre<br />

Adelaide<br />

17th - 18th July <strong>2020</strong><br />

Networking | Training | Expert Advice | Business<br />

This Industry first event will give you the resources<br />

and network, so that you can concentrate on<br />

providing your customers with beautiful<br />

jewellery experiences.<br />

www.<strong>Jewellery</strong>IndustrySummit.com<br />

17 - 18 July <strong>2020</strong><br />

Networking | Training | Expert Advice |<br />

Business<br />

www.<strong>Jewellery</strong>IndustrySummit.com<br />

hopefully talk about the local suppliers that<br />

they use who have stood by them over the<br />

years and come highly recommended.<br />

We are an industry. We need to act like one.<br />

Just like loyalty needs to be earned, it needs<br />

to be treasured and respected, rather than be<br />

taken for granted.<br />

I do believe that loyalty is a quality that most<br />

Aussies pride themselves on, even those of<br />

us who came from wide and far identified this<br />

quality in Australia from an early age. Let’s<br />

treasure it and not take it for granted.<br />

Trade well,,, Rami Baron.<br />

<strong>March</strong> <strong>2020</strong> 15



Jo Tory<br />

The Age of Trust<br />

The term ”fake news” has become<br />

almost synonymous with online<br />

media these past few years. Intense<br />

discussions have emerged, both online and<br />

offline, revolving around what is truth, what is<br />

fiction and all that exists in between.<br />

Such is the growing concern over the<br />

prevalence of fake news, that in 2017,<br />

following hot on the heels of the UK<br />

Parliament, our federal politicians called for<br />

an inquiry into the phenomenon of fake news<br />

in Australia. Social media platforms are no<br />

longer just about self expression and benign<br />

communication, they’ve now become our<br />

primary source of news. However, with the<br />

proliferation of 24/7 online news content,<br />

it’s now more difficult than ever to maintain<br />

authenticity and accountability, particularly<br />

as social media has been found to be so<br />

vulnerable to distortions; hearsay and<br />

rumours are increasingly digested as fact.<br />

Only a few months into the new year, the<br />

coronavirus—now officially known as COVID-<br />

19—has resulted in tragedy in countries<br />

across the globe and has, understandably,<br />

taken over the majority of online media<br />

bandwidth. For many, it’s already entirely<br />

re-shaped the <strong>2020</strong> calendar and economic<br />

outlook, with travel restrictions in place<br />

and international trade fairs either being<br />

re-scheduled or cancelled completely.<br />

Strangely, the coronavirus has brought<br />

questions of trust and accountability to the<br />

forefront. This crisis transcended geographical<br />

boundaries quickly, becoming a global concern<br />

overnight, requiring a co-operative and<br />

transparent exchange between countries. As<br />

many continue to question the international<br />

response to the virus and the accuracy of<br />

media reporting, it has served to highlight the<br />

fragile nature of the trust that exists between<br />

countries and the communities that comprise<br />

them.<br />

One of the major contentions is that a growing<br />

number of media sources are no longer<br />

impartial. And, in this climate, the need<br />

and demand for unprejudiced information<br />

is perhaps higher than ever before. The<br />

jewellery industry is not immune from this<br />

demand either. The JAA receives multiple<br />

inquires each day from consumers seeking<br />

advice and information free from bias. Often<br />

they come to the JAA because they feel out of<br />

their depth, unable to discern fact from fiction<br />

in the jewellery world. They come to the JAA<br />

because they view it as an impartial, neutral,<br />

authoritative; a source of trustworthy advice.<br />

Our mediation service takes some of the<br />

high emotions out of conflicts, helping to<br />

reinstate trust between our members and<br />

consumers; all parties feel heard and are<br />

a part of the mutually beneficial solutions<br />

that emerge. At times we are unable to help<br />

because the store in question is not a JAA<br />

member. The consumer often laments, “I<br />

wish I had shopped with a JAA jeweller, then<br />

I wouldn’t be in this situation.” The JAA is<br />

working towards increasing public awareness<br />

of JAA members as a part of its ‘network<br />

of trust’. Widely promoting our code of<br />

conduct, which sets out the highest standards<br />

currently available in the jewellery industry,<br />

ensuring maximum protection for jewellery<br />

buying consumers and, importantly, jewellery<br />

retailers. The JAA is proud to offer this service<br />

to both its members and jewellery consumers,<br />

growing and strengthening the trust in our<br />

local jewellery industry.<br />

16<br />

jewellery world - <strong>March</strong> <strong>2020</strong>


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COVID-19 a boost for<br />

Australian manufacturers<br />

The retail and tourism sectors are likely to be hit hard by COVID-19 but the silver<br />

lining will be found in the strength of Australian manufacturers.<br />

The threat of the coronavirus (COVID-<br />

19), in combination with the impact of<br />

the bushfires, is expected to result in a<br />

loss of up to 1.5 million international visitors<br />

to Australia according to a Deloitte Access<br />

Economics report. Around the world, the<br />

virus is having a swift affect on the jewellery<br />

market.<br />

<strong>Jewellery</strong> giant Pandora has closed around a<br />

third of its stores in mainland China, one of its<br />

top markets, saying that business there has<br />

ground to a halt.<br />

“As I sit here and watch the Chinese business,<br />

it is in a standstill mode, I mean there’s<br />

pennies being sold,” Pandora’s chief executive<br />

officer, Alexander Lacik, told Reuters, as<br />

he described an “unprecedented” drop in<br />

business.<br />

To date, Pandora has closed 70 of its<br />

240 shops in China on the order of the<br />

government and at its remaining ones, mostly<br />

in shopping malls, customer traffic is “next to<br />

none”, according to the brand’s boss.<br />

China is the world’s biggest luxury goods<br />

market and Pandora makes about 10% of<br />

annual sales from Hong Kong, China and its<br />

tourists.<br />

Chow Tai Fook<br />

<strong>Jewellery</strong> Group,<br />

the world’s<br />

second largest<br />

jewellery chain by<br />

market value after<br />

Tiffany & Co. has<br />

also closed stores<br />

in Hong Kong<br />

and Tiffany has<br />

closed outlets in<br />

mainland China.<br />

Manufacturing in<br />

mainland China<br />

has slowed as<br />

the government<br />

there orders closures of factories and millions<br />

of workers are restricted from travelling.<br />

The impact on supply lines is yet to fully play<br />

out, but at the recent Inhorgenta Munich<br />

fair in Germany, many brands were revealing<br />

difficulties in obtaining stock - a situation that<br />

can only flow through to retailers.<br />

The silver lining in a worryingly dark cloud<br />

is the strength of the Australian jewellery<br />

manufacturing sector. Opting for Australianmade<br />

is more important than ever and we<br />

are lucky to have local companies who are<br />

able to swiftly turn around high-quality and<br />

cost-effective product.<br />

Manufacturers who have seen customers<br />

leave them for cheaper overseas<br />

competitors are likely to welcome them<br />

back to place orders in the coming weeks.<br />

Keeping Australian retail windows wellstocked<br />

during a global crisis is one of the<br />

strengths of our tight-knit industry.<br />

18<br />

jewellery world - <strong>March</strong> <strong>2020</strong>

By Stefan Juengling<br />

Uberkate<br />

Najo<br />

Uberkate<br />




Mother’s Day is just around the corner, and these couple of months leading up to the<br />

big day presents a huge opportunity for jewellers and wholesalers to help customers<br />

connect more with the gift that will leave the biggest impression: jewellery. With expert<br />

input from Najo, Ice <strong>Jewellery</strong> Australia and Uberkate, we break down the knowledge,<br />

strategies and advice you can take to make the most of Mother’s Day.<br />

Ice <strong>Jewellery</strong><br />

Start marketing early to make it a<br />

great Mother’s Day<br />

Najo<br />

If you’ve got pieces you think mothers will<br />

love, it’s time to start marketing to the sons<br />

and daughters out there looking for such<br />

a gift. Najo offers such a large range of<br />

pieces across multiple collections,<br />

that CEO Jo Tory said her team<br />

compiles curated edits<br />

to make it easy<br />

for each of<br />

their customer<br />

groups to find<br />

that perfect gift.<br />

Uberkate<br />

“They are listed on our website and<br />

of course promoted through our<br />

other communication channels<br />

like social media and eDM<br />

(electronic direct marketing),”<br />

she said.<br />

“As a little something extra, the additional<br />

value that ‘Gifts with Purchase’ bring is always<br />

something that our customers appreciate.”<br />

Mother’s Day is<br />

the second biggest<br />

event of the year at<br />

Uberkate (the first<br />

being Christmas), and<br />

in order to prepare,<br />

company founder and<br />

designer Kate Sutton<br />

said they dedicate a<br />

huge amount of time,<br />

energy and creativity<br />

on it.<br />

“We increase our<br />

social media contact<br />

and we utilise our<br />

database to keep everyone in<br />

the loop at such a special<br />

time,” she said.<br />

“We have lots of firsttime<br />

mums buying<br />

their first personalised<br />

Uberkate circles (Ubercircles: Uberkate’s<br />

signature piece)and many partners<br />

surprising their wives, girlfriends and partners<br />

with a handwritten piece of jewellery.”<br />

Najo<br />

20<br />

jewellery world - <strong>March</strong> <strong>2020</strong>


Happy Mother’s Day!<br />

Najo<br />

The types of jewellery mothers want<br />

As for the types of jewellery sons and daughters like to buy their mothers,<br />

personalised pieces are all the rave for our respondents. Jo said that<br />

Najo offers their SIGNA range of engravable jewellery as ideal gifts for<br />

Mother’s Day, which allow customers to preview and order a custom<br />

engraving with their choice of font.<br />

“There are several different sterling silver pieces with varying engraving<br />

areas, including everything from small charms for initials to bigger pieces<br />

that can fit their whole name,<br />

or even the names of their<br />

children,” she said.<br />

“As each inscription is<br />

bespoke, a piece from the<br />

SIGNA range is a truly unique<br />

gift.”<br />


Director of Ice <strong>Jewellery</strong><br />

Online Simon Molnar also<br />

praised personalised jewellery<br />

as sentimental pieces ideal for<br />

Mother’s Day gifts.<br />

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Uberkate<br />

“Pieces such as lockets, name<br />

necklaces and inspirational<br />

pieces such as family tree necklaces<br />

or engravable pieces; these are dateless<br />

and mothers love to keep their loved<br />

ones close to their heart,” he said.<br />

Uberkate offers a “your script” service,<br />

in which they use client’s handwriting or<br />

drawings done by their children to engrave on<br />

the piece, and Kate said this service is hugely<br />

popular for Mother’s Day.<br />

“It takes personalisation to the next level<br />

and having received a cuff with 12 years of<br />

my own children’s handwritten messages<br />

engraved on it (cleverly organised by my own<br />

hubby!) I know what it<br />

feels like to open<br />

that box and see<br />

their gorgeous<br />

messages of love to<br />

me engraved into<br />

precious metal,”<br />

she said.<br />

Apart from that, Kate said their signature<br />

Ubercircles are very popular during Mother’s<br />

Day, as are their newer gemstone cocktail<br />

rings.<br />

Why jewellery makes an ideal gift<br />

Uberkate<br />

Kate said mothers love receiving<br />

jewellery as a gift because it’s so<br />

personal and it’s a symbol that<br />

is worn and can be seen.<br />

“It’s a symbol that shows<br />

someone has been thinking<br />

about you and of course women<br />

Uberkate<br />

LOVE wearing jewellery and even more so if it<br />

has a story attached to it,” she said.<br />

Jo offered similar sentiments, stating that<br />

jewellery is a timeless gift that speaks to their<br />

individual style, and that jewellery that’s gifted<br />

during special occasions like Mother’s Day will<br />

always hold sentimental value.<br />

Simon said that the mother-child relationship<br />

is one of the heart, and so giving and receiving<br />

jewellery is an emotional gift.<br />

Najo<br />

Advice for other businesses<br />

wanting big Mother’s Day sales<br />

When asked about what advice she would give<br />

to other jewellers to make it a big Mother’s<br />

Day, Kate said you should prepare early and<br />

make sure you merge your online and<br />

offline offers.<br />

22<br />

jewellery world - <strong>March</strong> <strong>2020</strong>

“Use your social<br />

media platforms<br />

to drive clients into your stores, give people<br />

a reason to come into store and think multichannel<br />

always,” she said.<br />

Najo<br />

“The world is now online and offline and we all need<br />

to use all platforms available to us to connect with our<br />

clients in multiple ways.”<br />

As for the product side of things, Kate recommends<br />

businesses should launch valued products that have a story and<br />

have something ‘extra’ about them.<br />

“It’s not enough to just launch products, consumers need to<br />

connect with products and connect with a brand to want to wear<br />

what they craft.”<br />

Jo stressed the importance of marketing suitable pieces for your<br />

clientele.<br />

“Curate a small Mother’s Day collection to offer, keeping in mind<br />

the suitability for gifts for mothers of all ages, with a variety of<br />

attractive price points,” she said.<br />

Simon said that if jewellers want to take advantage of Mother’s<br />

Day, they should not make the customers hunt for ideal Mother’s<br />

Day gifts.<br />

“Put these pieces front and centre to make it easy for your<br />

customer to find,” he said.<br />

“Remove anything that is not relevant to Mother’s Day like gents<br />

jewellery.”<br />


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<strong>Jewellery</strong> <strong>World</strong> supporting suppliers to<br />

support retail jewellery businesses<br />

<strong>Jewellery</strong> <strong>World</strong> <strong>Magazine</strong> hasn’t become the market leader simply by luck. Our knowledge,<br />

experience and willingness to go the extra mile for both sellers and buyers has earned us the<br />

number one position in the Australian and New Zealand jewellery industry media.<br />

<strong>Jewellery</strong> <strong>World</strong> launched a new jewellery<br />

pavilion inside the AGHA fair this February<br />

21st-24th at Olympic Park with 16<br />

exhibitors. These 16 companies used the fair<br />

to reach out to their customers and bring a<br />

better service and connection at a tough time<br />

of the year. With all that is happening around<br />

the world, it has never been so important<br />

to connect with local suppliers to help your<br />

business.<br />

According to AGHA’s official figures, the fair<br />

was a solid success across the entire giftware<br />

sector, but of course, our focus is on jewellery<br />

and many have been curious as to how a<br />

jewellery pavilion would fare inside a wideaspect<br />

tradeshow.<br />

The answer is a resounding ‘very well.’<br />

<strong>Jewellery</strong> suppliers in the pavilion saw a<br />

busy four days with good traffic and very<br />

satisfactory sales. As a whole, the group is<br />

Winner of the lab-grown diamond tennis<br />

bracelet Roula Nicolacopoulos of Diann<br />

Darling Jewellers, Engadine NSW.<br />

keen to repeat the experience in Melbourne in<br />

August, and the pavilion is, of course, open to<br />

any other companies who may be interested<br />

in joining.<br />

Our favourite comment from a participating<br />

supplier was “This takes me back to how<br />

we used to do the fairs and it’s been a great<br />

success for us.” Other exhibitors were equally<br />

happy. “Let’s get booking in for the Melbourne<br />

August fair and next year here at Olympic<br />

Park,” said one, while others added, “Can’t<br />

wait to see how Melbourne goes,” and “There<br />

were a couple of dead spots but all in all it was<br />

very successful for us.”<br />

And that was the point of the whole exercise<br />

- to help jewellery businesses with better<br />

business opportunities. “Thank you for<br />

organising it - it was a great success for us,”<br />

and “Thanks for all your help, the event ran<br />

really well.” Comments like this make it all<br />

worthwhile.<br />

Visitors pleased with<br />

a dedicated jewellery<br />

space<br />

The pavilion saw a great<br />

deal of visitors both from<br />

mixed-product retailers as<br />

well as jewellery retailers.<br />

<strong>Jewellery</strong> retailers in<br />

particular found the<br />

pavilion and the fair as a<br />

whole a very worthwhile<br />

experience and easier to<br />

get to than other locations.<br />

Hannes Coetsee of Leading Edge Group<br />

“We loved the fair and felt it was much better<br />

at Homebush with better layout and choice<br />

of jewellery. The free parking was great too<br />

and easy access,” said Helen from Advance<br />

Jewellers who travelled from the ACT to<br />

attend.<br />

Tim from Facet Jeweller in Cockburn Gateway,<br />

WA was initially concerned at how a jewellery<br />

pavilion would sit in a general gift fair. “I didn’t<br />

expect a lot of jewellery as a first time but I<br />

was not disappointed,” he said, acknowledging<br />

the wide range and quality of suppliers in the<br />

pavilion.<br />

It was great to see so many retailers who are<br />

buying group members at the fair, reminding<br />

us that our industry is really one big family.<br />

Events like this help strengthen ties between<br />

26<br />

jewellery world - <strong>March</strong> <strong>2020</strong>

the various strands of our industry and the atmosphere was friendly,<br />

busy and enjoyable.<br />

“As I was in Sydney I visited the fair and it was beneficial for me to meet<br />

the suppliers and plan the year ahead with them, so I used the fair to<br />

help strategise for the year. It was successful for me,” said Stephen from<br />

Stephens <strong>Jewellery</strong> in Shepparton, Victoria, a Showcase member.<br />

ATHAN<br />





The companies to be commended for taking the first steps in this revival<br />

of a mixed fair are: A M Imports, Australian Precious Stones, Bead Them<br />

Up, Bolton Gems, Cocktail <strong>Jewellery</strong>, Diva Designs, Duraflex Group,<br />

Graham Cohen, Ikecho, <strong>Jewellery</strong> Centre, KL Diamonds, Oblo <strong>Jewellery</strong>,<br />

Pastiche, Searay, Sparkle Impex, TJD Silver. With more exhibitors looking<br />

to join in for the Melbourne fair we are looking to secure a good position<br />

for the <strong>Jewellery</strong> <strong>World</strong> Pavilion at the Melbourne fair this 1-5 August.<br />

ANGER<br />

And The Winner Is...<br />

The raffle for the 5.5ct lab-grown tennis bracelet donated by Craig Miller<br />

of JC Jewels, was drawn at 1pm on the last day of the fair by Hannes<br />

Coetsee from Leading Edge Group and went to Roula Nicolacopoulos<br />

of Diann Darling Jewellers in Engadine NSW, a member of Nationwide<br />

buying group.<br />

We spoke to Roula about the fair and her winnings:<br />

“Lab Grown is something I have been pondering for some time so<br />

winning the bracelet will give me a chance to have a look and make<br />

some decisions for the future. Thank you, Craig at JC Jewells, for<br />

donating the bracelet to the fair.<br />

“I do normally come to the gift fair and originally started because I used<br />

to visit Pandora. I find new trends there and keep an eye on the market<br />

as a whole and to be honest I was surprised to see so many jewellers<br />

there, especially Sparkle Impex and Bolton Gems, whom I do business<br />

with. I was concerned that they may sell to gift people but am totally<br />

happy if they do even if it is twice a year, so long as they do at retail<br />

prices with a small discount so as not to cheapen the industry.<br />

“Christmas was ordinary for us but I always try to make the store look<br />

nice with new product as there has been a shift on spending habits.<br />

People come in all year round and buy big pieces although not as many<br />

as Thomas Sabo or Pandora which sell pretty well throughout the year.<br />

“It is great to get some nice pieces in new at the start of the year as I<br />

always keep stocks up all year round with great product to entice my<br />

customers. I support the companies that support Nationwide hence I<br />

spent quite a lot with them at the fair.”<br />


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18CT UNSET TENNIS MOUNTS 0.03ct - 0.50ct<br />




T: 03 9663 2321 F: 03 9663 7821 E: info@athan.com.au<br />



By Kirsten Ehrlich Davies<br />

Peter W Beck<br />


Manufacturing the jewellery we love<br />

Technology allows traditional bench jewellers and manufacturing firms alike to play a<br />

role in the customer’s ever-growing love affair with custom-made jewellery.<br />

Technology is bringing a new versatility<br />

and efficiency to the jewellery<br />

industry, streamlining age-old creative<br />

techniques and expanding the essential<br />

network of customers and colleagues. As<br />

customers become more independent<br />

about the designs they prefer and more<br />

environmentally conscious, many of today’s<br />

designers do a steady trade of remodelling<br />

work and custom designs.<br />

Today, even smaller jewellery businesses have<br />

the freedom to experiment with innovative<br />

designs while building an international<br />

customer base.<br />

Expanding creativity<br />

In 1978, Peter W Beck made a huge<br />

technological investment in his jewellery<br />

business, travelling to Milan to buy a rolling<br />

mill, so the company could create its own<br />

sheet and wire. This purchase was an<br />

important step forward for the company,<br />

enabling them to expand their product range<br />

and keep up with the growing customer<br />

demand.<br />

Peter maintained his keen eye for innovation,<br />

and was quick to recognise the potential for<br />

CAD/CAM when the technology was still very<br />

new to the jewellery industry.<br />

Around 15 years ago, the company made<br />

their first investment into CAD and 3D printing<br />

Deer Honey <strong>Jewellery</strong><br />

technologies, and today Peter W Beck is an<br />

established provider of CAD/CAM services for<br />

manufacturing and retail jewellers throughout<br />

Australia and New Zealand.<br />

CAD/CAM is particularly beneficial when<br />

crafting complex, specialist pieces of jewellery,<br />

as it reduces the time and cost involved in<br />

creating a piece traditionally. This gives the<br />

designer more freedom to be innovative and<br />

versatile, while the traditional skills of casting<br />

and stone setting are still as valuable as ever.<br />

Peter W Beck<br />

28<br />

jewellery world - <strong>March</strong> <strong>2020</strong>

design, such as a different coloured stone or<br />

alter the design to suit the right hand rather<br />

than the left.<br />

Building a community<br />

Brett Low of Deer Honey <strong>Jewellery</strong> still draws<br />

his own eclectic jewellery designs to scale,<br />

and while he’s attracted to the potential of<br />

laser technology, he can’t justify the cost right<br />

now. He doesn’t use CAD himself although he<br />

will contract the work out if necessary – his<br />

scale drawings are easy to interpret. For<br />

Brett, the most important innovation in the<br />

jewellery industry has been the development<br />

of online platforms, where he can network<br />

with both customers and industry peers.<br />

“Instagram is a fantastic platform for<br />

manufacturers and designers, and<br />

part of our online marketing<br />

is to give people a peek<br />

into our workshop<br />

through videos,”<br />

Brett said.<br />

“Facebook is<br />

also good, but I<br />

find Instagram is<br />

the best platform for<br />

promoting jewellery.”<br />

Deer Honey <strong>Jewellery</strong><br />

Deer Honey <strong>Jewellery</strong><br />

Customers who see Brett’s jewellery<br />

samples online will request their<br />

own customised “tweak” to the<br />

Alternately, they could pick up ideas for<br />

remodelling an old ring – women who<br />

want to redesign their engagement ring or<br />

an heirloom piece of jewellery will gather<br />

ideas from sites like Deer Honey <strong>Jewellery</strong>’s<br />

Instagram page before coming to a decision.<br />

The range of gemstone options on display<br />

will fire up a customer’s imagination, so they<br />

think more broadly about cut and colour<br />

when choosing a gemstone for their preferred<br />

design.<br />

Besides expanding his customer base, the<br />

Internet has also made it easier for Brett<br />

to interact with suppliers and contractors.<br />

Brett’s smartphone is an essential work tool,<br />

providing a direct line of contact to people all<br />

around the country and overseas.<br />

“Now platforms can be consolidated so you<br />

only log into one account to reach Instagram<br />

or Facebook or LinkedIn,” he says.<br />

This direct line of contact<br />

streamlines the design<br />

process, whether he<br />

is seeking to find the<br />

right gemstone for a<br />

particular design or the<br />

right contractor to help<br />

him complete a commission<br />

efficiently.<br />

Brett has also found that the Internet provides<br />

the opportunity for jewellery experts to<br />

share their wisdom or ask for guidance. He<br />

helps run a Facebook group called The Young<br />

Jewellers Group, which is dedicated to provide<br />

a friendly and accessible community resource<br />

for people in the jewellery trade, where they<br />

can share their skills and expertise or ask<br />

questions from experts in the field.<br />

Technology as a tool<br />

Benjamin Ryan <strong>Jewellery</strong><br />

Benjamin Ryan <strong>Jewellery</strong> caters to customers<br />

who specifically want traditionally handcrafted<br />

pieces, although Ben says that new technology<br />

does play an important role in the business.<br />

“I prefer to handmake jewellery and will<br />

always keep that as the focus of my business.<br />

I do use CAD, laser and wax casting when<br />

needed. I think people can sometimes<br />

become a little lazy with new technology,<br />

but it has opened<br />

up a lot of other<br />

amazing areas<br />

where we<br />

can push the<br />

boundaries of<br />

design.”<br />

While Ben is<br />

concerned there<br />

may eventually be a<br />

slump in traditional<br />

skills, he knows<br />

Peter W Beck<br />

others have held this<br />

fear in the past, and the quality of handmade<br />

jewellery always has its place.<br />

“Old jewellers have always said to me that<br />

when wax casting became more prominent,<br />

Peter W Beck<br />

<strong>March</strong> <strong>2020</strong> 29

Benjamin Ryan <strong>Jewellery</strong><br />

Benjamin Ryan <strong>Jewellery</strong><br />

they were worried it would replace old<br />

manufacturing skills. But as we have seen,<br />

it hasn’t. I think wax carving is an excellent<br />

skill when working alongside traditional<br />

manufacturing techniques.”<br />

Ben has seen more of a resurgence with<br />

handmade, along with a push from customers<br />

to have something handmade or remade.<br />

“A lot of people love seeing the process and<br />

their pieces evolving from start to finish,” he<br />

said.<br />

Ben has found that lasers are particularly<br />

beneficial and cost-effective.<br />

“Time and price point are always important<br />

factors, and there is a huge price difference<br />

between laser engraving compared to<br />

traditional engraving. Laser welding can<br />

be fantastic for repairing those almost<br />

unrepairable nightmare jobs, and they are also<br />

a great help in tacking pieces into place before<br />

soldering, or getting into those hard-to-reach<br />

places, especially if some components are<br />

pre-set before assembly.”<br />

Balancing modern and traditional<br />

Ironically, the expanding market of discerning<br />

customers seeking customised jewellery has<br />

also driven the push for independent jewellers<br />

to embrace technological advances. The<br />

result is a commitment to nurture traditional<br />

methods, combined with a reliance on<br />

modern innovations to streamline production,<br />

so jewellers can meet time and money<br />

constraints.<br />

Benjamin Ryan <strong>Jewellery</strong><br />

Ciufoli unveils luxury Adelaide boutique<br />

Italian jewellery brand, Ciufoli, led by Australian designer Giacomo, has<br />

opened their first private boutique in Adelaide, Australia.<br />

Ciufoli curates truly unique collections of high-end jewellery for the<br />

luxury and bridal markets.<br />

The unveiling of their first boutique is timed to coincide with the<br />

launch of Cuifoli’s latest bridal and engagement collection – Segreto.<br />

With this collection, Ciufoli says, the brand extends an invitation for<br />

brides to be both delicate and bold, because like the heroines of<br />

timeless love stories, real beauty is often found in rareness.<br />

“At Ciufoli, rings are forged from the fire of fairytales,” says the<br />

company in a recent release.<br />

Led by Adelaide born creative director,<br />

Giacomo Ciufoli, 27, the Segreto Collection<br />

celebrates the unique nature of two souls<br />

coming together. Giacomo notes that ‘Many<br />

brands choose to propose the one jewel to an<br />

array of men or women; I’d rather propose a<br />

different one to each individual.<br />

“Segreto”<br />

Floating 4ct marquise diamond<br />

and blue sapphire ring<br />

30 jewellery world - <strong>March</strong> <strong>2020</strong><br />

“I believe that<br />

every man and<br />

woman should<br />

be given the<br />

opportunity<br />

and freedom<br />

to choose to be<br />

themselves, to be<br />

unique. It is this<br />

belief that inspires<br />

a collection to<br />

have an element<br />

Ciufoli Adelaide Boutique<br />

of customisable freedom whilst still being visibly anchored to the one<br />

origin, through a uniquely identifiable aesthetic.”<br />

Every ring in the collection is made-to-order in Italy within 4-6 weeks.<br />

The collection can be viewed by appointment at the new boutique<br />

in Adelaide.



To see just how much goes on behind the scenes at KL Diamonds is surprising.<br />

A showroom and workshop are nestled behind lacquered wooden doors<br />

adorned with impeccably polished brass in the heart of Sydney’s CBD.<br />

Kalleh Levonian is the director of KL<br />

Diamonds and joined the family business<br />

more than 20 years ago. The company’s<br />

large showroom and adjacent workshop<br />

operates on the fifth floor of the Trust<br />

Building, overlooking Sydney’s Martin Place<br />

with neighbourly views of Chanel and Dior.<br />

Hermes will be joining in the next few weeks,<br />

just underneath KL Diamonds.<br />

Although surrounded<br />

by high-end luxury<br />

and glamour,<br />

Levonian is always<br />

focused and<br />

dedicated to the<br />

fundamentals of<br />

making jewellery;<br />

the highest quality<br />

craftsmanship<br />

and using superb<br />

materials. His workshop is buzzing with<br />

a multitude of activities, all happening<br />

simultaneously. Diamond setting, assembling<br />

of raw castings, remodelling and repairs of<br />

much-loved pieces. Polishing and rhodium<br />

plating are also done in-house.<br />

Levonian says quality and speed are the words<br />

he chooses to describe his approach to the<br />

workshop.<br />

“It’s so important to me that the quality is high<br />

and our clients are happy. We see ourselves<br />

as an extension to their own workshop. They<br />

come to us for our quick turnaround times<br />

and the quality of our work.”<br />

As the company motto goes, "We are your<br />

workshop."<br />

As well as the manufacturing service, KL<br />

Diamonds also stocks the largest range of<br />

Argyle pinks, champagnes and whites. Whilst<br />

32<br />

jewellery world - <strong>March</strong> <strong>2020</strong>

the Argyle pinks are still very popular, the Argyle white<br />

diamond is where the focus is at the moment, driven by<br />

demand and signals in the marketplace.<br />

“People are wanting to know the source… the concept of<br />

knowing the exact origin is becoming normalised. Now<br />

people have a strong preference<br />

for Australian diamonds.”<br />

Levonian had launched his<br />

Australian Diamond Valley brand<br />

only mid last year, responding<br />

to the growing demand for<br />

jewellery made completely with<br />

Argyle diamonds.<br />

“Our pieces are completely<br />

Argyle, not a combination<br />

of Argyle diamonds set with<br />

diamonds from another country.<br />

It’s this purity of our product<br />

which attracts consumers.”<br />

As we leave the showroom, Levonian switches gears and is back on the bench with his<br />

team, setting stones for a job that has just come through the door.<br />

Ph: (03) 9650 5955 Fax: (03) 6950 5977<br />

Email: sales@millenniumchain.com.au<br />

Web: www.millenniumchain.com.au<br />

6th Floor, 313 Lt. Collins St.<br />

Melbourne 3000 Victoria<br />

Millennium Chain<br />

Finished Top 5 in the category of<br />

Best Selling Gold <strong>Jewellery</strong> Suppliers in<br />

Australia and NZ, as voted by retailers.<br />


Winner 2018 Fancy Coloured Award:<br />

Ben Preston-Black Creations Jewellers<br />

Entries are open for the<br />

<strong>2020</strong> Diamond Guild Australia<br />

<strong>Jewellery</strong> Awards<br />

Premier diamond industry association, Diamond Guild Australia, has announced that the Diamond<br />

Guild Australia <strong>Jewellery</strong> Awards will be held once again in <strong>2020</strong> and is calling for entries from all<br />

jewellers and designers around Australia working within the retail fine jewellery industry.<br />

The Diamond Guild Awards, to be held for the<br />

7th time in <strong>2020</strong>, are widely regarded as the<br />

foremost jewellery design event in Australia.<br />

The <strong>2020</strong> competition will test the design and<br />

manufacturing skills of the participants across<br />

6 categories:<br />

Solitaire Diamond Award<br />

The simplest and yet most challenging of<br />

categories – the Solitaire Diamond <strong>Jewellery</strong><br />

Award applauds the beauty of the single stone<br />

of any shape showcased in a unique ring<br />

setting. This category is awarded for excellence<br />

in craftsmanship and innovation of design.<br />

Diamonds For Men Award<br />

Always innovative and modern, the Men’s<br />

category is hallmarked by the creative use<br />

of materials to highlight the diamond. This<br />

category celebrates contemporary jewellery<br />

for the design conscious Australian man.<br />

Diamonds For Everyday Award<br />

This award honours jewellery design that is<br />

inspirational and accessible. Entries in this<br />

category can take any form but must be to<br />

the retail value of $6,500 or less. Diamond<br />

jewellery that is wearable, affordable and<br />

stylish.<br />

Emerging Talent Award<br />

The category that celebrates the next<br />

generation of Australian <strong>Jewellery</strong> Design<br />

talent. <strong>Jewellery</strong> apprentices and students of<br />

jewellery design are encouraged to test their<br />

skills in this accessible and prestigious award.<br />

For the first time entry to this category in <strong>2020</strong><br />

will require only a hand rendered illustration<br />

of a unique design from which the finalist and<br />

winner will be selected. Entries are to feature<br />

diamonds of any colour and shape inspired by<br />

the robust beauty of Australian nature.<br />

Argyle Australian Fancy Coloured<br />

Diamond Award<br />

As the world bids farewell to the finest<br />

source of fancy coloured diamonds in <strong>2020</strong>,<br />

this category celebrates the unique range of<br />

coloured stones sourced from the Australian<br />

Argyle mine. In this category, certified fancy<br />

coloured Argyle stones must represent 70%<br />

or more of the overall diamond content of the<br />

design.<br />

Red Carpet Award<br />

Always highly anticipated and fiercely<br />

contended, the Red Carpet Award honours<br />

the fantasy and glamour of high jewellery.<br />

No limits apply to diamond content, value or<br />

creativity. Think showstopping, trendsetting,<br />

eye-catching design at its best.<br />

From the winning design selected in each<br />

category the Supreme Winner will be awarded<br />

as the pinnacle of design excellence and<br />

craftsmanship in <strong>2020</strong>. Representing the best<br />

of diamond jewellery, this award is the most<br />

aspirational and prestigious in Australian<br />

jewellery design today.<br />

Executive Officer of Diamond Guild Australia,<br />

Melissa James confirmed that the Guild and its<br />

members were looking forward to being able<br />

to offer this design event to the wider industry<br />

again in <strong>2020</strong> explaining that supporting and<br />

promoting the jewellery trade was key to the<br />

mission of Diamond Guild Australia.<br />

“We see this competition as the most valuable<br />

way to showcase the amazing talent we have<br />

in Australia to the jewellery loving general<br />

public,” she said.<br />

Early registrations of interest are now open at<br />

www.diamondguild.com.au/awards/awardsregistration.<br />

Full criteria for each category<br />

will be released in <strong>March</strong> when registered<br />

jewellers and designers will receive an entry<br />

information kit.<br />

34<br />

jewellery world - <strong>March</strong> <strong>2020</strong>

Elodie Daguzan to sit at head of<br />

<strong>World</strong> Diamond Council<br />

The <strong>World</strong> Diamond Council has appointed Elodie Daguzan as the<br />

new executive director for the organisation.<br />

As she stepped into the role in<br />

February, Daguzan brought 19 years of<br />

experience to the position. She most<br />

recently served as head of communications<br />

and industry relations at Rubel & Menasche,<br />

a French diamond trading company. Daguzan<br />

has also represented the company at the<br />

<strong>World</strong> Diamond Council serving as an active<br />

member of the Kimberley Process Task Force.<br />

The WDC, the overarching group that<br />

represents the diamond industry in front of<br />

the Kimberley Process certification scheme, is<br />

facing challenging times as it strives to ensure<br />

consumer confidence in diamonds and meet<br />

the expectations of today’s consumers, says<br />

Daguzan.<br />

In her first blog for the WDC, Daguzan says<br />

“the diamond industry is a business sector<br />

that is special because of the inherently<br />

precious product it deals with, but also<br />

because of the caring people of which it is<br />

comprised.”<br />

She says she is driven by the desire to<br />

advocate for the good that diamonds do.<br />

“But diamonds do not do good, or bad for<br />

that matter, on their own. Individuals do.<br />

Individuals have the power to gather and work<br />

in unison for the betterment of their industry,”<br />

she adds.<br />

“I believe that partnering together, driven by<br />

our common purpose of living up to diamonds<br />

and people, will be the foundation on which<br />

we will keep building a stronger future for our<br />

industry. This is because business is a tale of<br />

encounters and a tale of<br />

connections.”<br />

Daguzan holds a degree<br />

in archaeology from the<br />

Paris-Sorbonne and is a<br />

certified gemmologist,<br />

having studied at the<br />

National Institute of<br />

Elodie Daguzan<br />

Gemmology in Paris and<br />

the Gemmologica Institute of America in New<br />

York.<br />

Daguzan takes over as WDC Executive Director<br />

from Marie-Chantal Kaninda, who stepped<br />

down from the position toward the end of<br />

2019 for a new opportunity in the Democratic<br />

Republic of Congo.<br />

02 - 92690991


How to make an Eternity Ring<br />

The eternity ring project has been an integral part of apprenticeship<br />

training for generations. It teaches advanced marking and saw piercing<br />

disciplines. Even with the development of modern manufacturing<br />

technologies these skills are still essential for today’s bench jeweller.<br />

The materials used for this lesson is sterling silver 4.5mm x 4.5mm x<br />

37mm and 21 x 2.5mm CZs<br />

1The first stage of the process is to make<br />

a ring blank to specific dimensions. This<br />

should be regarded as a test in itself. Roll<br />

the stock gauge metal to the required<br />

dimensions for the ring blank: 3.8mm wide x<br />

2.6mm thick. The video instructions include<br />

how to use a rolling formula to achieve the<br />

correct measurements. Make sure that the<br />

strip is around 10% over the measurements to<br />

allow for final file up later.<br />

2Anneal before forming into a ring.<br />

Finished finger size for this ring is size<br />

‘O’. Aim to make it one size smaller at<br />

this stage. Be careful not to impress<br />

tool marks as this will affect the finished ring<br />

measurements. Cross the ends over to apply<br />

tension to the joint, then line the ends up.<br />

Ensure that the joint meets perfectly. Flux and<br />

solder using hard grade. Quench and pickle to<br />

remove the oxides.<br />

3Tap the ring with a steel hammer on<br />

a mandrel into a perfect round shape.<br />

Work on the ring until you get it to the<br />

correct finger size. Now file the ring to<br />

the correct measurements and emery finish to<br />

remove tool marks. The video includes useful<br />

filing tips and techniques.<br />

If you file too much off, sorry, but go back to<br />

the start. This is a test.<br />

4<br />

Mark out for 21 stones. This is easier<br />

said than done. Theoretically you could<br />

work out the spacing by dividing the<br />

circumference of the ring by 21 and setting you<br />

dividers to that measurement. The chances of<br />

you successfully marking out 21 perfect spaces<br />

are very slim. So, I advise you to firstly dividing<br />

the ring into three sections, then concentrate<br />

on marking out seven perfectly spaced settings<br />

in each of the three sections.<br />

5Check again that your markings are all<br />

correct. If not, emery the surface again<br />

and restart. Use a set square to scribe<br />

the marking across the ring. Cut the cross<br />

markings in with your piercing saw. Now cut<br />

the side lines in, making sure that you position<br />

your blade so that the lines radiate from the<br />

centre of the ring.<br />

6<br />

When you cut the sides, they should<br />

leave evidence on the inside of the<br />

ring. This will help for marking the<br />

cross lines. Set your dividers to just under<br />

1mm and scribe rails around the inside of the<br />

ring,then carefully join the cross markings<br />

up matching the rail thickness to create a<br />

ladder pattern. The squares should all be the<br />

same size and the frame thickness should be<br />

consistent.<br />

36<br />

jewellery world - <strong>March</strong> <strong>2020</strong>

7<br />

Use a 0.8mm drill to pilot drill all the<br />

sections. Check the inside of the ring<br />

to make sure that the holes are all<br />

centred properly. Open all the settings<br />

out with a 1.2mm drill. If any of the pilot<br />

holes are out, correct them with the second<br />

pass. Treat this exercise as a test for accurate<br />

drilling skills.<br />

8<br />

Use a 1.2mm round bur to countersink<br />

the inside holes. Use a 1.5mm ball<br />

bur to open the top of the settings<br />

and finish off countersinking the top<br />

with a bud or cone bur. This will allow the saw<br />

blade to rotate as you perform the angled back<br />

cutting (Ajour). Before you begin to back cut<br />

the settings, try the technique out on a piece<br />

of scrap metal.<br />

9<br />

Insert a 4/0 or 5/0 saw blade into a<br />

setting and begin the cutting work by<br />

angling the blade forwards. This will<br />

help to avoid contact with the top<br />

sides of the ring. Keep the blade moving as you<br />

cut into the two outer corners, then scrape<br />

the blade along the scribe line. Turn the ring<br />

around and re-insert the blade to repeat the<br />

process on the other side. Stay well withing<br />

the scribe lines for you first attempts. You<br />

can perfect the work once you have some<br />

experience.<br />

10<br />

Cutting the cross markings of the<br />

inner squares can be tricky and<br />

may result in some accidental<br />

cuts on the sides of the ring. As<br />

you cut the cross lines of the back holes to a<br />

square shape, pay attention to the top sides of<br />

the ring opposite where you are cutting, this<br />

area should only be contacted by the back of<br />

the blade.<br />

Once you have done all the back cutting, use<br />

a split mandrel with a strip of emery paper to<br />

clean the inside of the ring. This will highlight<br />

any rough spots that may need more trimming.<br />

11are to be cut into castle settings.<br />

Now turn your attention to the top<br />

of the ring. Each of the settings<br />

Set your dividers to half the ring<br />

thickness and scribe a guideline around both<br />

sides. Set your dividers to 1mm and mark off<br />

from the lines at the sides and top of the ring.<br />

Now cut the marks in to at least saw blade<br />

thickness along the top. Angle your blade to<br />

around 45° to cut out the sides of the settings.<br />

Carefully turn the blade and cut across to take<br />

the small sections out.<br />

12<br />

Use your piercing saw as a file<br />

and scrape the cut-out surfaces<br />

until they are neat and tidy. The<br />

assessment of your saw cutting<br />

skills should be done now, before any further<br />

tidying work is carried out.<br />

Finally, you can use a needle file to tidy the<br />

slots. A #12 flat graver with a polished belly will<br />

apply a bright cut finish ready for stone setting.<br />

The video includes various stone setting<br />

techniques for setting a full eternity ring.<br />

Peter Keep is a<br />

master jeweller<br />

and teacher. He<br />

offers structured<br />

online courses<br />

that have helped<br />

thousands of<br />

students around<br />

the world improve<br />

their skills.<br />

<strong>Jewellery</strong> Training Solutions Courses<br />

<strong>Jewellery</strong> Training Solutions offers a comprehensive online training<br />

service including the very popular Silver Level Apprentice Training<br />

Course where you will find this course.<br />

Check out all the other courses at<br />

www.jewellerytrainingsolutions.com.au<br />

<strong>March</strong> <strong>2020</strong> 37


Emile Chouriet takes a page from the golden era of precision chronometry for its latest creation.<br />

Named after the lake that is emblematic of Geneva and shared<br />

between Switzerland and<br />

neighbouring France, the Lac Léman collection pays tribute to<br />

the brand’s founder Emile Chouriet, who left France for Switzerland<br />

during the early years of Swiss watchmaking in the 17th century.<br />

The newest reference in the line, the Lac Léman Classic Chronometer<br />

is a piece that combines timeless elegance with unrelenting precision<br />

in a style that is unmistakably Emile Chouriet.<br />

The polished<br />

40mm steel<br />

case features<br />

Emile Chouriet’s<br />

signature stepped<br />

wing-shaped<br />

lugs, a touch<br />

of whimsical<br />

elegance on<br />

this modern<br />

classic. The dial<br />

is fashioned in<br />

Lac Léman Classic Chronometer EC9312 Automatic Movement COSC<br />

Stainless Steel Case © Emile Chouriet<br />

white lacquer, with elongated slim black Roman numerals for the hour<br />

markers, while the blue hands are a striking accent.<br />

The watch is powered by the EC9312-COSC calibre, an automatic<br />

COSC-certified movement with a guaranteed accuracy of -4 to +6<br />

seconds per day. When fully wound, the movement provides a power<br />

reserve of 42 hours and is visible through the display back.<br />

The Lac Léman Classic has all the makings of a timepiece destined for<br />

those who appreciate the elegant charm of Geneva watchmaking’s<br />

illustrious past, with just the right kind of modern accents to never<br />

feel antiquated.<br />


MeisterSinger are famous for their single hand watches - but their<br />

newest release adds a new complication - The Neo Pointer Date.<br />

Released at Inhorgenta <strong>2020</strong>, the Neo<br />

Pointer Date sticks with MeisterSinger<br />

tradition: a single hand is used to tell the<br />

time, but a second hand is used only to<br />

read the date from a display in the middle<br />

of the dial.<br />

This form of display is a traditional<br />

one for wristwatches, as the date<br />

used to be indicated by a hand at<br />

the center of the dial long before<br />

the first date windows appeared. The<br />

design, which is rare today, follows the<br />

MeisterSinger principle of showing the<br />

moment not as an isolated display but in<br />

context, providing an overview of both the<br />

weekly and the monthly course of events.<br />

The Neo Pointer<br />

Date follows the<br />

classical rule that the<br />

hand for indicating<br />

the longer periods of time, in this case the full days, is the shortest.<br />

The date circle is somewhat recessed and located tightly around the<br />

center of the dial, clearly differentiated from the minute scale and<br />

the hour numerals. Its typography and the small, needle-like hand<br />

are highly typical of MeisterSinger.<br />

Two models in two sizes are available in this new release. The<br />

Neo is 36mm in diameter while the Neo Plus sits in a<br />

40mm case. Available in opaline white and sunburst<br />

blue the models are both powered by a Swiss<br />

automatic movement. Each is stamped with a serial<br />

number and is water resistant to 3 bar.<br />

All models come with a finely meshed milanaise<br />

bracelet and are available from <strong>March</strong>/April <strong>2020</strong>.<br />

38<br />

jewellery world - <strong>March</strong> <strong>2020</strong>


Tag Heuer’s Autavia<br />

reinvented for a<br />

new generation<br />

Longines HydroConquest<br />

A new look in green<br />

Longines’ HydroConquest collection has models<br />

in blue, grey and black but new additions in tones<br />

of green prove that the only thing more alluring<br />

than a blue-faced watch is one in deep green.<br />

The khaki and green models derive<br />

their inspiration from aquatic sports<br />

and the open sea. HydroConquest<br />

timepieces preserve the traditional style<br />

of diving watches, inspired by the unique<br />

requirements of the sport. The distinctive<br />

characteristics of this collection include<br />

water-resistance to 300 metres, a<br />

unidirectional rotating bezel, a screwdown<br />

crown and cast back, crown<br />

protection and a double security folding<br />

clasp with integrated diving extension.<br />

The khaki model features a ceramic bezel insert and is mounted<br />

on a stainless steel or green rubber strap. Available in two sizes<br />

(41 or 43 mm diameter) the piece is powered by a self-winding<br />

mechanical movement.<br />

The green model houses a L888.5 calibre that was designed<br />

exclusively for Longines. The 41mm case comes with an<br />

interchangeable stainless steel bracelet and a green rubber strap.<br />

TAG Heuer has introduced its<br />

legendary Autavia timepiece as<br />

a new stand-alone collection that<br />

boasts the versatility, ruggedness<br />

and reliability that characterised the<br />

original Autavia from 1960.<br />

Two durable and timeless models in noble bronze with a green or<br />

brown colour scheme, powered by the COSC-certified automaticwinding<br />

Calibre 5, are now available in stores and online. The<br />

Autavia in bronze is an ideal choice for explorers who want their watch<br />

to live with them and show off their unique and adventurous lifestyle.<br />

The 42mm watch features a fumé green or brown dial with a<br />

bidirectional rotating ceramic bezel in black or brown, respectively. The<br />

brown model is presented on a brown leather strap, while the green<br />

model features a khaki-coloured leather strap. A tyre and propeller have<br />

been etched into the titanium caseback as a nod to the collection’s rich<br />

heritage and the Autavia’s origin: automobile and aviation.<br />

The most distinguishing feature of the<br />

bronze Tag Heuer Autavia models is the<br />

unique patina that naturally develops<br />

on the bronze case, which will be<br />

different for every watch depending on<br />

the wearer’s habits over time. When<br />

exposed to elements such as water<br />

and air or changes in temperature, the<br />

bronze surface will undergo a process<br />

of oxidation. Starting with a red-brown<br />

colour and then turning a blue or<br />

greenish colour, this colourisation effect<br />

on the metal is completely natural, and<br />

the hue depends on the type of bronze and the<br />

elements it has been exposed to. Every oxidation pattern is unique,<br />

and the wearer is able to make the watch truly their own.<br />

<strong>March</strong> <strong>2020</strong> 39



Brian May, musician, singer and songwriter with massive rock band Queen, has<br />

collaborated with Seiko to release a watch celebrating his guitar.<br />

veneer that Brian stained and polished himself. The innovative<br />

tremolo system designed by Brian featured a hand-carved mild steel<br />

rocker plate pivoting on a (literal) knife edge, with the pull of the<br />

strings balanced by motorcycle valve springs. To complete the job, the<br />

tremolo arm was improvised from part of a bicycle saddlebag holder,<br />

capped with a piece of a sturdy knitting needle. The Red Special is<br />

a labour of love that has uniquely served Brian on stage and in the<br />

studio for over half a century.<br />

Throughout his long and continuing career, rock legend Brian May has<br />

relied upon his ‘‘Red Special’’ guitar to create the sound that helped<br />

make Queen one of the world’s most admired and celebrated rock<br />

bands. He has also relied on Seiko.<br />

For more than 40 years, Brian has worn a Seiko diver’s watch whose<br />

enduringly popular design is the inspiration for the latest Seiko 5<br />

Sports collection. Brian bought his Seiko watch while first on tour in<br />

Japan in the 1970’s since when his guitar and his watch have travelled<br />

the globe together, making great music and keeping great time.<br />

The Red Special now inspires a new Seiko 5 Sports watch whose dial<br />

echoes the design of the guitar which Brian and his father built in the<br />

early 1960’s. The guitar was<br />

made by hand, with only<br />

hand tools. The neck was<br />

carved from the wood of an<br />

old fireplace, 100 years old<br />

at the time. The body was<br />

made from blockboard with<br />

an ancient oak insert, and<br />

covered with a mahogany<br />

The new Seiko 5 Sports<br />

watch is constructed<br />

in a very different way<br />

but is also built to last.<br />

With the long-trusted<br />

caliber 4R36 at its<br />

heart, 10 bar water<br />

resistance, a Hardlex<br />

crystal and its robust<br />

steel case, it has all<br />

the qualities that have<br />

made Seiko 5 Sports<br />

so many fans down<br />

the decades. The dial<br />

has the same red and<br />

Brian May visited Wako in Ginza and met with Shinji<br />

black color scheme as<br />

Hattori, chairman and CEO of Seiko Watch Corporation.<br />

the ‘‘Red Special’’ and<br />

features a delicate wood-like pattern like the body of the guitar.<br />

The watch is offered as a limited edition with Brian’s signature on the<br />

case back and comes with a special presentation box designed on the<br />

lines of the Red Special’s custom flight case. The presentation box also<br />

contains a commemorative coin that is based on the sixpenny piece<br />

that he has used throughout his career as a plectrum. The watch is<br />

presented on a black nylon strap, designed to mirror the strap that<br />

Brian now uses on his guitar.<br />

The Seiko Red Special is a 9,000 piece limited edition.<br />

40<br />

jewellery world - <strong>March</strong> <strong>2020</strong>



Iconic watch brand Pulsar extends its long-standing partnership<br />

with Australia's premier motorsport series.<br />

Pulsar has released a brand-new limited-edition Supercars watch to mark their seventh season as the Official Watch Partner<br />

of the Virgin Australia Supercars Championship.<br />

Stuart Smith, group marketing manager of Seiko Australia said the Supercars fan base had continued to show tremendous<br />

support to the brand since its inaugural season in 2014.<br />

“Each year the limited-edition watch sells out and we have the passionate<br />

fan base to thank for that,” he said.<br />

“The Supercars series delivers an exciting championship<br />

year in, year out. Racing and qualifying often<br />

comes down to the millisecond, commanding<br />

the ultimate in accuracy and precision form<br />

its drivers, qualities that are at our very<br />

core as a watchmaker.<br />

“We look forward to another wonderful season of racing and hope the Supercars fans fall<br />

in love with the <strong>2020</strong> limited edition watch.”<br />

In addition to the Supercars-themed watches, this season fans will be able to look out<br />

for new branding, as Pulsar take over the pit exit stop/go lights at Supercars events.<br />

Shane Howard, chief operating officer at Supercars, said the long-standing relationship<br />

with Pulsar was an important partnership for Supercars, with teams and fans alike<br />

looking forward to the new limited edition designs each year.<br />

“Every year our fans get excited about getting their hands on the newly released watch<br />

design. It’s fantastic to continue this partnership in to a seventh season,” he said.<br />

Only <strong>2020</strong> units will be made available worldwide. Features include chronograph<br />

function, stainless steel hard coated case with black patterned leather strap and red<br />

stitching, date calendar and water resistant to 100m.<br />

<strong>March</strong> <strong>2020</strong> 41


Ikecho | +61 2 9266 0636<br />

Sterling silver white Freshwater Pearl Edison 11.5-12mm<br />

cubic zirconia bangle 19cm<br />

www.ikecho.com.au<br />

<strong>Jewellery</strong> Centre | +61 7 3221 3838<br />

New to <strong>Jewellery</strong> Centre - Geometric Shapes!<br />

Elegant sterling silver earwires (EW5042, EW5043CZ & EW5046)<br />

www.jewellerycentreaustralia.com<br />

Bianc | +61 412 251 257<br />

The Bel Noir collection features unique and classic designs set<br />

in sterling silver with cubic zirconia.<br />

All our New Season products are on online now.<br />

info@bianc.com.au<br />

@bianc_jewellery<br />

www.bianc.com.au<br />

Zahar | +61 413 872 810<br />

Zahar is a new Australian fashion jewellery brand that<br />

launched in August 2019.<br />

The designs are bold and take on eclectic elegance and fun,<br />

with a focus on both classic and contemporary styles.<br />

The Zahar collections currently range between WS$14.00-<br />

$35.60.<br />

info@zahar.com.au<br />

@zahar.collection<br />

www.zahar.com.au<br />

42<br />

jewellery world - <strong>March</strong> <strong>2020</strong>

services<br />

services<br />

chains<br />

• Desert Jewells •<br />

Supplier to<br />

all buying groups<br />

Fast delivery Australia wide<br />


Opal & Coloured Stone<br />

Repair Service<br />

We specialise in:<br />

• sourcing replacement stones • precision<br />

gem cutting • stone colour matching for<br />

custom makes • blanks and mounts • free<br />

shapes • calibrated stones • inlay opal<br />

jewellery repairs.<br />

sales@desertjewells.com.au<br />

0414 902 200<br />

www.desertjewells.com.au<br />

JAA Member. Fast, reliable. Email quotes.<br />

Nearly 40 years of trusted<br />

service to the Watch &<br />

<strong>Jewellery</strong> Industry.<br />

Free call: 1800 244 354<br />

Your one stop battery shop<br />

& much more.<br />

orders@thebatteryman.com.au<br />

www.thebatteryman.com.au<br />

Glues<br />

PO Box 112<br />

Toronto NSW 2283<br />

P: 02 9380 4742 ∙ F: 02 8580 6168<br />

E: sales@adelaimports.com<br />

Adela Imports offer over 180<br />

designs of sterling silver chain,<br />

with up to 20 lengths available<br />

in each from stock.<br />

Also offering a range of<br />

uniquely designed silver<br />

jewellery.<br />

Catalogue available.<br />

www.adelaimports.com<br />

for sale<br />

for sale<br />

MILN & CO. Pty Ltd<br />

Ph: 02 4655 7707 M: 0412 702 834<br />

E:stuart.miln@milnco.com.au<br />

Lancier Watch Bands - Leather, metal, sports.<br />

Watchglasses. Seals. Batteries. Quartz Movements.<br />

Pins/tools. <strong>Jewellery</strong> findings. J C Hurst Bangles.<br />

Fischer Barometers and Tide Clocks<br />

Chris O’Neill<br />

Piecemaker<br />

2015 YJG Bench Challenge<br />

Hand Engraving Champion.<br />

Also specialising in quality<br />

Handmakes, Repairs and<br />

Antique restorations in the<br />

Sydney CBD.<br />

0405 689 834<br />


Noosa Heads, Queensland<br />


Noosa Heads, Queensland<br />

Luxury jewellery store located<br />

on the exclusive Hasting Street<br />

opposite iconic Main Beach<br />

Luxury jewellery store located on exclusive Hastings Street<br />

opposite iconic Main Beach<br />

Beautiful modern gallery style shop Þt-out<br />

Existing local, interstate and international client base<br />

Beautiful modern gallery style<br />

shop fit-out<br />

International airport opening 2022<br />

Comprehensive handover<br />

Existing local, interstate and<br />

international client base<br />

Great return on investment<br />

Contact Gordon on 0419672411<br />

International airport<br />

opening 2022<br />

Comprehensive handover<br />

Great return on investment<br />

CONTACT GORDON ON 0419 672 411<br />

Relaxing...<br />

My grandfather has the heart<br />

of a lion - and a lifelong ban<br />

from the zoo.<br />

The quickest way to man's<br />

heart is through his chest.<br />

I like to play chess with old<br />

men in the park, though it's<br />

hard to find 32 of them.<br />

What do you get when you<br />

cross a joke with a rhetorical<br />

question?<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

James and Kay Drysdale operate a<br />

much loved successful small family<br />

business nestled in the heart of<br />

Berwick Village.<br />

Their business has an established<br />

reputation for high quality jewellery<br />

making, restoration and repairing<br />

with long term support staff.<br />

For full details, contact Barry Erlenwein<br />

T: 0409 324 180<br />

E: barry@justrealestate.com.au<br />

<strong>March</strong> <strong>2020</strong> 43

From our inventory, to yours...<br />



Due to an increase in enquiries from retail customers,<br />

we are upgrading the online presence of our stockist<br />

function on our website. It’s another way O’Neils Affiliated<br />

are trying to keep the Australian <strong>Jewellery</strong> industry<br />

vibrant and busy in the face of overseas and online sales.<br />

Please visit www.oagems.com<br />

or call our friendly team on 03 9654 5200<br />

for more information.

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