Water Unites

Alai / Zarafshan
The Zarafshan River flows between the Amu Darya and Syr Darya. It also originates
in the mountains. When travelling by plane from Dushanbe to Bishkek, the capital of
Kyrgyzstan, on a clear day one can see the glaciers where the river is formed. Hard to
imagine that people live in these rugged valleys. But reality shows that there are villages
all along the Zarafshan River. And there is not only water in the river. Canals were built
to irrigate the oasis and to bring the water to the homes. The villages are threatened
by unstable mountain slopes. But people want to stay. They have been populating this
area for centuries and they have preserved their traditions. Their dresses and behavior
give witness. It is interesting to see that the donkey is a beast of burden and means of
transportation. Foreigners, people on missions who don’t come with empty hands, are
welcome in this completely secluded area, where tourists have never been seen. This also
makes the upper Zarafshan Valley so unique. One problem is the power supply. At the
time of the Soviet Union, the villages were still supplied with electricity, but after independence,
much of the infrastructure was not serviced and it simply collapsed.
Today, the villages must help themselves and find solutions on their own. A small
hydropower plant is being built in the village of Dashdi Obodon. The men of the village
work with simple tools. They know their lives will soon change. The children of the village
school will soon be working with computers and in the hospital; ultrasound devices
and other sophisticated equipment will be used. The village has big plans. They count on
the cooperation with the German GIZ, Gesellschaft für internationale Zusammenarbeit,
which is funding the small hydropower plant.
Since time immemorial, people have settled where water runs. Along the once
vibrant Silk Road, connecting Europe and China, we find the big old cities of Central
Asia – Bukhara, Khiva and Samarkand. Once they offered shelter to those who came
from and went into the desert. Because the cities were rich in water, they were cultural
and commercial centers for centuries, as well as centers of Islam. In Islam, water is the
source of all life. Allah is compared to an infinite ocean. Water is viewed as a precious gift
from Allah. Also, cool, clear water runs in paradise. Therefore, water must be shared and
must be available to everyone. Water is the source of civilization. The ancient, legendary
city of Samarkand has been receiving worldwide attention. The Registan is the attraction
of Uzbekistan. It is a magnificent place with three madrasas, Islamic schools, which were
built between 1450 and 1660.
A few hundred miles farther west lies Bukhara. In this area, the Zarafshan disappears
in the desert, where cotton fields extend to the horizon. The past noticeably meets
the present here. The Kalon Minaret and the Citadel are marvelous examples of great
architecture and history. And children use swimming pools in the middle of town that
are hundreds of years old. Women come together to share their ideas of future plans
among themselves.
150 Photo essay Alai / Zarafshan