Water Unites

Tian Shan / Syr Darya
Endless glaciers and magnificent peaks that reach 7 500 meters characterize the Tian
Shan mountain region. The mountains are popular for mountain climbers, as well as
for mining companies. A gold rush started in the middle of the 1990s. In the mountains
above Lake Issyk Kul lies the Kumtor gold mine, located at 4 000 meters. The gold-bearing
rock is mined under extreme conditions in an open pit. Kumtor is one of the world’s
most productive gold mines. In addition to the huge water resources, it is the economic
backbone of Kyrgyzstan. Every branch of industry needs a reliable water supply. Without
water from the nearby glaciers, gold mining would not be possible. Machines crush
boulders. Huge amounts of water are mixed with finely ground rock. Gold in this mud
is separated from its host rock. It is a costly and energy-intensive process. About 2 000
miners work day and night in the Kumtor mine. As a result, the precious metal can be
finally poured into the molds. Cyanide, a toxic and water-soluble cyanide salt, plays an
important role in this process. Only the cyanide solution can separate the gold from the
crushed ore. After being processed, the remaining brown mud is pumped into numerous
tailings on the mine site. Above the mine lies Petrov Lake. Experts are concerned
that the lake, once a reliable water reservoir for gold extraction, has become a threat to
the mine. Within the last few years, the lake’s size increased by one and a half times.The
rapid melting of the glaciers due to global warming threatens the stability of the lake
front. Experts fear that its protective embankment may soften and break, flooding the
mine. This could cause enormous economic and ecological damage to the region.
Down in the Valley the nomads enjoy the popular beverage kumis. Kumis, fermented
mare’s milk, is a traditional drink with medicinal powers. No nomad can imagine
life without drinking fresh kumis-it ensures a long healthy life. It’s not everyone’s cup
of tea, it tastes a bit salty and bitterly pungent. However if you consider its healing powers,
it becomes really delicious. The Son-Kul is one of the sources of the Syr Darya. This
lake is also where Central Asia’s lifeline begins. Here, in winter, freezing temperatures
are pre valent at an altitude of over 3 000 meters. But in summer, the Son-Kul Lake is an
important grazing area. In warm seasons, cattle breeders drive their herds from dry and
over-grazed valleys up here, following the millennial rhythm of the nomads. In the past,
cattle breeders used to be nomads all year round. Nowadays, they live in their homes in
the valleys during the cold months and only return to their old habits during summer.
Meanwhile, modernization has come to this place. The nomads welcome tourists. The
nearest town is now reached in a Jeep, rather than on horseback. But they still remain
faithful to their traditions and their way of life. They live on what nature has to offer, and
they take only what they need. The nomads have learned how to be content and adaptable.
Just as they did centuries ago, they still travel across the vast plains and along the rivers.
They always look for the best pastures and places that have water.
Those who come to Kyrgyzstan are keen to visit the lake Issyk Kul. Here tourists
can find the cleanest water, cool air and a mountain panorama that is unparalleled. Just
100 km north of lake Issyk Kul is the singing dune. It is the scenery, the vastness, that
attracts visitors from everywhere. Small children sit on horses; they herd the flock, the
186 Photo essay Tian Shan / Syr Darya