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peppery taste somewhat.<br />
Two other types of cress –<br />
both introduced in the 1860s<br />
– can be grown at home and,<br />
like watercress, are members of<br />
the brassica family and have a<br />
similar mustard-like flavour.<br />
The most common is cress or<br />
moss-curled cress (Lepidium<br />
sativum). Long popular<br />
with kids, who love its fast<br />
germination on cotton wool<br />
or kitchen paper, it makes the<br />
best-ever sandwich filling when<br />
mixed with mashed hard-boiled<br />
egg. Common cress is native to<br />
the same areas as watercress,<br />
while the less-familiar American<br />
upland cress (Barbarea verna)<br />
is actually European in origin.<br />
Because it grows in almost any<br />
cool, damp garden, upland<br />
cress is easier to grow than<br />
watercress, but the taste is<br />
more pungent.<br />
New Zealand has about 20<br />
native cresses, all belonging<br />
to the Lepidium genus and<br />
known as scurvy grasses or<br />
peppercresses. All are now rare<br />
in the wild.<br />
Be cautious<br />
If you forage for watercress<br />
on farmland, be aware that it<br />
can host liver fluke (Fasciola<br />
hepatica), a nasty parasite that<br />
can infect people as well as<br />
sheep and cattle. Fortunately,<br />
cases in humans are rare, but<br />
watercress must be thoroughly<br />
washed before eating. This is<br />
recommended for commercially<br />
produced and home-grown<br />
watercress, too.<br />
Weeds common among wild<br />
watercress are monkey musk<br />
(Erythranthe guttata) and<br />
buttercup (Ranunculus repens).<br />
Monkey musk, which has yellow<br />
or sometimes red snapdragonlike<br />
flowers, is unlikely to cause<br />
harm – Native Americans ate<br />
it and used it in medicines.<br />
However, all parts of<br />
buttercups are poisonous<br />
and must be avoided.<br />
It is considered unsafe for<br />
pregnant women and nursing<br />
mothers to eat large quantities<br />
of watercress.<br />
Growing watercress<br />
Having discovered the simplest<br />
way to grow watercress was a<br />
two-pot system, I filled a 2.5l<br />
plastic pot with a mix of soil<br />
and homemade compost, then<br />
stood it in a bucket. The bucket<br />
was half-filled with water and<br />
the compost well-watered.<br />
Meantime, I had sown seed<br />
in a tray of damp mix and it<br />
germinated within a few<br />
days. When the seedlings were<br />
big enough to transplant, I<br />
weeded the pot of compost/soil<br />
(where did all that chickweed<br />
come from?!) and put fresh<br />
water in the bucket. Into the<br />
top bucket went the best<br />
seedlings and the remainder<br />
were used in a salad.<br />
In a month, the plants were<br />
big enough to nip off a few<br />
sprigs to try (very tasty),<br />
which in turn stimulated<br />
more growth. The water in the<br />
bucket kept the soil very wet,<br />
mimicking a boggy ditch.<br />
My plants, being tough<br />
perennials, should keep<br />
producing right through winter.<br />
The only attention they need is<br />
for the water in the bucket to be<br />
changed every week or 10 days.<br />
Having put growing watercress<br />
in the ‘too-hard basket’, I’m<br />
now hooked on how easy it has<br />
turned out to be.<br />
Thanks to Kings Seeds, which<br />
supplied seed for the writer to<br />
trial watercress.<br />
from left Watercress in a shallow<br />
creek; Wild watercress can be weedy,<br />
as this patch is.<br />
gardener.kiwi<br />
kiwigardener 67