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peppery taste somewhat.<br />

Two other types of cress –<br />

both introduced in the 1860s<br />

– can be grown at home and,<br />

like watercress, are members of<br />

the brassica family and have a<br />

similar mustard-like flavour.<br />

The most common is cress or<br />

moss-curled cress (Lepidium<br />

sativum). Long popular<br />

with kids, who love its fast<br />

germination on cotton wool<br />

or kitchen paper, it makes the<br />

best-ever sandwich filling when<br />

mixed with mashed hard-boiled<br />

egg. Common cress is native to<br />

the same areas as watercress,<br />

while the less-familiar American<br />

upland cress (Barbarea verna)<br />

is actually European in origin.<br />

Because it grows in almost any<br />

cool, damp garden, upland<br />

cress is easier to grow than<br />

watercress, but the taste is<br />

more pungent.<br />

New Zealand has about 20<br />

native cresses, all belonging<br />

to the Lepidium genus and<br />

known as scurvy grasses or<br />

peppercresses. All are now rare<br />

in the wild.<br />

Be cautious<br />

If you forage for watercress<br />

on farmland, be aware that it<br />

can host liver fluke (Fasciola<br />

hepatica), a nasty parasite that<br />

can infect people as well as<br />

sheep and cattle. Fortunately,<br />

cases in humans are rare, but<br />

watercress must be thoroughly<br />

washed before eating. This is<br />

recommended for commercially<br />

produced and home-grown<br />

watercress, too.<br />

Weeds common among wild<br />

watercress are monkey musk<br />

(Erythranthe guttata) and<br />

buttercup (Ranunculus repens).<br />

Monkey musk, which has yellow<br />

or sometimes red snapdragonlike<br />

flowers, is unlikely to cause<br />

harm – Native Americans ate<br />

it and used it in medicines.<br />

However, all parts of<br />

buttercups are poisonous<br />

and must be avoided.<br />

It is considered unsafe for<br />

pregnant women and nursing<br />

mothers to eat large quantities<br />

of watercress.<br />

Growing watercress<br />

Having discovered the simplest<br />

way to grow watercress was a<br />

two-pot system, I filled a 2.5l<br />

plastic pot with a mix of soil<br />

and homemade compost, then<br />

stood it in a bucket. The bucket<br />

was half-filled with water and<br />

the compost well-watered.<br />

Meantime, I had sown seed<br />

in a tray of damp mix and it<br />

germinated within a few<br />

days. When the seedlings were<br />

big enough to transplant, I<br />

weeded the pot of compost/soil<br />

(where did all that chickweed<br />

come from?!) and put fresh<br />

water in the bucket. Into the<br />

top bucket went the best<br />

seedlings and the remainder<br />

were used in a salad.<br />

In a month, the plants were<br />

big enough to nip off a few<br />

sprigs to try (very tasty),<br />

which in turn stimulated<br />

more growth. The water in the<br />

bucket kept the soil very wet,<br />

mimicking a boggy ditch.<br />

My plants, being tough<br />

perennials, should keep<br />

producing right through winter.<br />

The only attention they need is<br />

for the water in the bucket to be<br />

changed every week or 10 days.<br />

Having put growing watercress<br />

in the ‘too-hard basket’, I’m<br />

now hooked on how easy it has<br />

turned out to be.<br />

Thanks to Kings Seeds, which<br />

supplied seed for the writer to<br />

trial watercress.<br />

from left Watercress in a shallow<br />

creek; Wild watercress can be weedy,<br />

as this patch is.<br />

gardener.kiwi<br />

kiwigardener 67

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