Times of the Islands Summer 2020

TIMES
OF THE
ISLANDS
SAMPLING THE SOUL OF THE TURKS & CAICOS ISLANDS SUMMER 2020 NO. 131
SOCIAL DISTANCING
TURKS & CAICOS STYLE
CORONAVIRUS PANDEMIC
TCI Lockdown Keeps Country Safe
A REAWAKENING
Nature’s Response to the Pause
AWAY FROM IT ALL
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contents
Departments
6 From the Editor
15 Getting to Know
“The Big Boat” — Jeffrey Handfield
By Pastor Bradley Handfield
20 Island Life
A Time to Reflect
By Bernadette Hunt, Turks & Caicos Property
26 Eye on the Sky
Hurricane Season 2020
By Paul Wilkerson ~ Photos By Marta Morton
31 Giving Back
Stewards of the Sea
By Don Stark, Chairman, TCRF
64 Real Estate
Away from it All
By Kathy Borsuk
74 Sanctuary—South Bank Development
By Kathy Borsuk
96 To Do
Staycation
99 About the Islands/TCI Map
103 Subscription Form
104 Where to Stay
106 Dining
108 Classified Ads
Features
36 Works Best Undisturbed
By B Naqqi Manco, TCI Naturalist
58 The Rainbow Effect
By Kelly Currington
77 Lessons from Lockdown
By Kelly Currington, B Naqqi Manco, Don Stark,
Jody Rathgeb, Marta Morton, Dr. Heidi Hertler
TIMES
OF THE
ISLANDS
SAMPLING THE SOUL OF THE TURKS & CAICOS ISLANDS SUMMER 2020 NO. 131
On the Cover
Photographer/videographer Gary James, owner/director
of Provo Pictures, originally shot this image for Wymara
Resorts and Villas. It perfectly captures the natural “social
distancing” available on the Turks & Caicos Islands’
beautiful—and uncrowded—beaches. The country is
scheduled to reopen on July 22 following a four-month
border closure due to COVID-19. For more of Gary’s stunning
images, visit provopictures.com.
83
Green Pages
40 As Far As The Eye Can See
By Ben Farmer
44 It’s Not Just Dirt, It’s Soil!
By Anna Handte-Reinecker
47 National Treasure
By Melissa Heres
53 Hidden in Plain Sight
Story & Photos By Carmen Hoyt
Astrolabe
86 Foodways, Life and Archaeology
Story & Photos By Dr. Andy J. Ciofalo
91 TCI in World War II
By Captain Eric Wiberg
MARTA MORTON–WWW.HARBOURCLUBVILLAS.COM
4 www.timespub.tc

TurksAndCaicosProperty.com
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US$15,000,000
Bernadette Hunt
Cell ~ 649 231 4029 | Tel ~ 649 941 3361
Bernadette@TurksAndCaicosProperty.com
Bernadette has lived in the Turks and Caicos
Islands for over 21 years and witnessed the
development and transition of the islands
into a significant tourist destination. Based
on independent figures her gross transaction
numbers are unrivalled. Bernadette
has listings on Providenciales, Pine Cay,
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and is delighted to work with sellers and
buyers of homes, condos, commercial real
estate and vacant undeveloped sites.
Villa Skyline - Blue Mountain
Villa Skyline is a 4 bedroom contemporary vacation villa located in the prestigious community of
Blue Mountain on Providenciales’ North Shore. The expansive 6,000 sq.ft. hilltop property has been
elegantly designed with modern finishes, stylish decor, and designer furnishings. The entire villa has
been equipped with state of the art electronics and features the most dramatic elevated ocean views.
US$4,500,000
Turks and Caicos Property is the leading
independent real estate firm in the Turks and
Caicos Islands with offices located at Ocean
Club West Resort and Ocean Club West
Plaza on the Grace Bay Road.
Bernadette’s reputation and success has been
earned over time through her dedication,
enthusiasm and passion for real estate. Her
personal experience as having practiced law
in the islands for more than 10 years together
with owning and renovating a number of
properties means she is well-placed to advise
her customers and developers on what to
anticipate in the purchasing and construction
process.
Bernadette delights in working in the real
estate industry and her humor and energy
make her a pleasure to work with.
Villa Aquazure - Leeward Beachfront
Villa Aquazure is a beautifully designed beachfront vacation rental villa with a total of 4
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as one of the best vacation rentals in this area generating income in the high six figures.
Please contact Bernadette if you would like
to find out more about owning real estate in
the Turks & Caicos Islands.
US$3,975,000

from the editor
MARTA MORTON–WWW.HARBOURCLUBVILLAS.COM
Longtime contributor Marta Morton shared this image of the wild Sapodilla tree in her yard. She says, “It looked like a bunch of twigs and I
thought it was dying from lack of rain. All of a sudden, after two rain showers, it started to bud and then the sprouts started to turn green.”
6 www.timespub.tc
Coming Back to Life
My life turned upside down in late March, just like most of the world’s population. With little time to prepare,
I made the agonizing decision to stay put in Turks & Caicos Islands instead of returning to Chicago to help out my
elderly parents and uncle. I had no idea the TCI borders would close for four long months. Thanks to the grace of
God, good neighbors, food delivery and my seniors’ inner strength, my dear family members are making it through,
as healthy and comfortable as can be expected during the “shelter in place” order in Illinois. How I thank God for
answering my daily prayers for their protection!
I watched the Islands slowly turn from spring into summer. Some trees and shrubs in the “bush” go barren and
look dead during the dry winter season; it was a blessing—and reminder to me of God’s rejuvenating power—to see
the leaves and flowers grow back, inch by inch. As usual, the country’s natural beauty soothed my soul and calmed
my anxiety from the flow of fear and uncertainty brought about by the COVID-19 upheaval.
We also made the difficult decision not to print this issue. Instead, you can read and enjoy it online—we’ll be
working to share the link with as many as possible—please do the same.
I overflow with gratitude to our contributors, who shared their experiences so honestly; to our advertisers, who
continue to support our publication during these hard times; and to the TCI Government and residents, who acted
with awe-inspiring discipline and dignity to keep the Islands healthy and safe for our visitors to return.
Kathy Borsuk, Editor
timespub@tciway.tc • (649) 431-4788

Introducing the Boathouses
The Boathouses at South Bank will be conveniently
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www.windward.tc
Brand partners:
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For more information contact
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or email: nina@tcsothebysrealty.com

TIMES
MANAGING EDITOR
Kathy Borsuk
ADVERTISING MANAGER
Claire Parrish
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
Kathy Borsuk, Dr. Andy J. Ciofalo, Kelly Currington,
Ben Farmer, Pastor Bradley Handfield, Anna Handte-
Reinecker, Melissa Heres, Dr. Heidi Hertler, Carmen Hoyt,
Bernadette Hunt, B Naqqi Manco, Marta Morton, Dr. Michael
P. Pateman, Jody Rathgeb, Don Stark, Captain Eric Wiberg,
Paul Wilkerson, Candianne Williams.
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
Dr. Andy J. Ciofalo, Kelly Currington, Phil Dustan,
David Gallardo–Brilliant Photography, Ben Farmer,
Cynthia Filo, Getty Images–iStock, Anna Handte-Reinecker,
Demitri Harvey, Melissa Heres, Dr. Heidi Hertler,
Carmen Hoyt, Gary James–Provo Pictures, B Naqqi Manco,
Kathleen McNary-Wood, Marta Morton, NOAA,
Beatrix Neuhaus–Beatrix Neuhaus Photography,
Katrina Orthman, Tom Rathgeb, South Bank, Don Stark,
David M. Stone, Turks & Caicos National Museum,
Turks & Caicos Property, Stephanie Wallwork,
Candianne Williams, Wrecksite.eu,
.
CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS
Dwight Outten, Wavey Line Publishing
PRINTING
PF Solutions, Miami, FL
OF THE
ISLANDS
Times of the Islands ISSN 1017-6853 is
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getting to know
Local artist Dwight Outten painted this rendition of Jeffrey Handfield’s “big boat,” the JAS Seaview, whose service changed the course of
Turks & Caicos Islands history.
DWIGHT OUTTEN
“The Big Boat”
Jeffrey Handfield’s vision changed the course of TCI history.
By Pastor Bradley Handfield ~ Images Courtesy Handfield Family
Jeffrey Lemond Handfield was a visionary man chosen by his Creator to do something special for his
country, particularly the islands of Providenciales, North Caicos and Middle Caicos.
Times of the Islands Summer 2020 15

My father, Jeffrey Handfield, was born in 1930, nine
years before the start of World War II. As a result, his
childhood and adolescent years were very economically
challenging times throughout the world. Even more so for
the Turks & Caicos Islands, which was under direct rule
by the British Government and administered by a British
governor stationed in Jamaica. My father used to talk
of those tough times with vivid imagery. He would say,
“Times were so hard that we used to eat cornmeal that
was so old it was filled with worms, and we used to thank
God for the worms because at least we were eating meat.”
This was a result of the long time it took for supplies to
be shipped from Jamaica to the Turks & Caicos Islands.
When my father was a boy, employment in the Caicos
Islands was non-existent. He would say, “The only things
for young men to do in those days were hooking conch
and burning charcoal.” People used to depend on the land
and the sea for their survival. The men were avid boatsmen
and the boys dreamt of becoming just like their
fathers.
The dream my father had was that one day he would
own a “big boat,” meaning a large Caicos sloop. Boys in
those days didn’t have many educational opportunities.
In North Caicos there was only a little primary school in
Bottle Creek, the settlement where my father lived. He
attended the Bottle Creek Primary School until he was
nine years old and in the third grade. (While I am writing
this account, my son is nine years old and the thought
of Dominion ending his education now makes me emotional.)
Once out of school the only thing for young Jeffrey
to do was join his father as a crew on his fishing boat.
At nine years old he had to learn to scull/row the dinghy
boat using a long oar, and hook conchs using a water
glass and a long pole with a hook at the end. Fathers and
their sons would leave North Caicos on Monday morning
and head for South Caicos where they would buy supplies
for three weeks and then go from there to Ambergris
Cay. At Ambergris Cay they would live in huts made from
a local wood called “wattle” and the roof would be made
from palm leaves. There they would stay, fishing and
hooking conchs, then hanging them in the sun to dry.
For three weeks they would do this work and they would
give their product of dried fish and dried conch to the
captain of the large sloops who would take it to Haiti to
be sold at Cap Haitian. Back then, conchs would be sold
in Haiti at a price of one dollar per one hundred conchs.
This was the life of men and boys and this was how my
father began dreaming of having a “big boat” of his own.
Also known as “Baba Jeff,” Jeffrey Handfield was a pastor in the
Church of God of Prophecy; considered one of the best divers in the
TCI; and was a loving father, uncle and great-great grandfather.
In order to find more lucrative means of employment,
young men would have to migrate either to the Bahamas
or the United States. As a young adult my father migrated
to the Bahamas as a stowaway on one of the “big boats”
that carried passengers to Nassau. Since my father’s
name was not on the manifest as a passenger or crew
member, he had to be smuggled into the Bahamas. This
is my father’s account of how that happened: “When the
boat reached Nassau it stopped at Hog Island, (now called
Paradise Island), all the stowaways had to swim to shore
on Hog Island to wait for nightfall. We reached Hog Island
with our clothes soaking wet, the sun was hot and there
was no shade, boats were passing by close to the shore,
16 www.timespub.tc

so to hide ourselves we dug holes in the sand and buried
ourselves leaving only our face out so that we could
breathe. We stayed there all day without food or water
until the sun went below the horizon. At night a dinghy
was sent to collect us and bring us to Potter’s Cay dock
where we disappeared on the streets of Nassau.”
In Nassau there was a large population of Turks &
Caicos Islanders who would help newcomers from TCI
to settle in the Bahamas. Once linked with the TCI connection,
my father made his way to Grand Bahama where
there were many jobs in the pineyard. In Grand Bahama
my father was hired as a saw man and his job was to
operate one of the big saws that cut the pine trees into
lumber.
It was customary in my father’s era that once a man
reached a certain age and was able to find a means of
income, that he should marry. My father returned from
the Bahamas at age 21 decked out in fine clothes and his
signature hat at three quarter pitch on his head. He was a
handsome ebony man, who as he put it, “I used to dress
to kill.” His sole intention upon returning home was to
find himself a wife.
Courting was different back then. Once a man spotted
the girl that he loved, he would write a letter to the parents
of his prospective bride, asking permission to come
to the family’s home to declare his intentions to the girl.
So my father wrote a letter to my grandmother. Normally
the letter would be addressed to the father of the girl, but
my grandfather was deaf and mute and as such he could
not read. The letter would read like this:
“Dear Mrs. Missick, my name is Jeffrey Handfield,
I am from Belmont and my parents are James and
Alrica Handfield. I am writing to you to let you know
that your daughter Alma has caught my attention
and I am deeply in love with her. I am hereby asking
your permission to visit your home so that you can
meet me and I can express my feelings to Alma and
declare my desire to marry her. I write to you with
great expectations of your approval of my request.
Yours sincerely Jeffrey Lemond Handfield.”
Ferry Fall 17_Layout 1 8/22/17 12:52 PM Page 1
* *
Jeffrey Handfield and Alma Missick were married on
the June 17, 1952. When a man married he had to have
a house to carry his new bride to. He could not carry her
to his parents’ house to live, and back then there were
no rental properties. As such my father had built his little
house in Belmont and he took his bride home to build a
family and a life together. He continued working in the
Bahamas and making regular trips home to spend time
Temporary suspension PROVO NORTH 12.30pm & 1.30pm Sept 1st to Oct 31st
*
Resumes Nov 1st
Times of the Islands Summer 2020 17

with his growing family. All along he did not give up his
dream of having his own “big boat.”
My father often told us of how he received his vision
for his “big boat” from an angel. All along he only had
a dream, he had no clear vision of this boat he wanted.
But one night after working hard at the sawmill in Pine
Ridge, Grand Bahama, my father fell asleep on the floor
of his cousin’s little clapboard house. Suddenly an angel
descended from the ceiling. He stood in front of my father
and said, “Jeffrey, you said you want to build a boat?” My
father replied, “Yes sir.” The angel didn’t say anything
else, instead he proceeded to make several hand gestures.
He drew a straight line on the floor and wrote the
number 65, he opened his arms and then wrote 18, he
clasped his fingers together and bent his elbows, then
made a sign with his fingers and wrote 2 feet. Once he
made this last sign he disappeared through the ceiling
as suddenly as he had appeared. My father awoke from
this scenario and shared what had just happened with
his cousin who was asleep on the bed. His cousin said
to him, “Jeffery, you just received a vision from the Lord,
you should write down everything the angel showed you
before you forget.” My father did exactly that, he wrote
down Hugh final_Layout all that the 1 angel 5/29/17 had 1:15 showed PM Page him. 1 Then he realized
P
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HUGH G. O’NEILL
&
ATTORNEYSN
AT
L AW
P.O. Box 267
Hibernian House
1136 Leeward Highway
Providenciales
Turks and Caicos Islands
B.W.I.
Tel 649-946-4514
Fax 649-946-4955
Email hugh.oneill@hgoneillco.tc
C
CO. O
N
F
I
D
E
N
T
I
A
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that what he had been given were the dimensions and
design for his boat.
Having been given such a clear vision my father was
highly motivated to pursue his dream. He devised a strategy
to have this vision come to fruition. He decided that
he would stay in Grand Bahama and work for two more
years and save as much money as he could. At the end
of the two years he used his savings to purchase all the
materials that he would need to build his boat. He sent
the material home and returned to begin his project.
Upon his return to North Caicos, he immediately solicited
the help of his cousin Gifford Handfield, who was a
professional boatbuilder. He set up the boat in his yard
using local timber. When the boat was framed his cousin
asked him if he was building Noah’s ark, because of the
size and design of the boat. But this is where the story
becomes more interesting.
My father had set out to build a sailing sloop which he
would use to take the fishermen’s products to Haiti and
bring back produce and other valuables from Haiti to be
sold in North Caicos. However, while the boat was under
construction, Mr. Liam McGuire, a British surveyor, was
about to start constructing the roads in Providenciales,
North Caicos and Middle Caicos. He had run into a huge
problem. He needed to transport oil from South Caicos
to these three islands and he could not find a boat in the
Turks & Caicos Islands that could traverse the shallow
waters of the Caicos Banks loaded with his fuel tanks.
Fortunately, someone told him about the boat that my
father was building and suggested that from the look of
the boat it might be able to do the job.
Liam visited my father in North Caicos to have a look
at his boat. He asked what the draft of the boat was and
was told that the boat could manoeuvre in two feet of
water loaded with cargo. Liam had found the boat that
he was looking for! He negotiated with my father and the
boat was contracted to carry the fuel between the islands
before it was completed.
Another event of significance unfolded surrounding
the hiring of the boat. As I said before, my father had
set out to build a sailing vessel. Now that the boat would
be carrying huge tanks on deck, it was impractical for
sails to be used. Hence a new plan was devised to have
customized engines made for this vessel in England.
Liam undertook this effort and the engine was made in
England to suit the design of my father’s vessel.
When my father was finished building the boat in
1968, it was one of the most exciting days of his life. But
there was one problem. The boat had to be launched. It
18 www.timespub.tc

was problematic because my father had built it in his yard
about 300 feet from the sea, and 30 feet above sea level.
How would it be done without having the boat break in
half? Back then they had no heavy equipment, no cranes,
only ropes, ramps and come-a-longs. Old fashioned
blocks and tackles.
Boat launches were one of the most festive occasions
in the Islands. All the men were needed to help heave
and pull, the women cooked and served food and drinks,
the children looked on excitedly. The whole community
of North and Middle Caicos came out to help and to have
fun.
On the day of the launch my father was excited and
worried—he had built a huge ramp and put rollers in
place to get the boat moving. He was afraid that the hill
was too high and the boat was too heavy and it might
break apart if it didn’t land in the water when it left the
hill. Once the boat started moving quickly on the rollers
there was no stopping her. Either she would land in the
sea and be safe or hit the land and break apart.
Thankfully on that day, after praying and asking God
for guidance and protection, the men began to pull as
they chanted, the boat started moving, picking up speed
Walkin May2017_Layout 1 5/28/17 5:45 PM Page 1
with every pull of the ropes, faster and faster it went as Jeffrey Handfield died in February 2019 at the age of 88, feeling that
his country had not recognized his pioneering contribution.
she hit the slope of the hill. At the brink of the hill she left
the ground and landed safely in the sea. My father went
aboard, stood on the bow, lifted the bottle of champagne
that he held in his hand and smacked it against the bow
of the boat as he declared, “I christen you the AJ and S
Seaview.”
The Seaview was taken to South Caicos where Mr.
Totton Seymour installed the engine that had come from
England and thus the AJ and S Seaview became the first
motorized ship built in the Turks & Caicos Islands.
My father took considerable pride in the fact that his
vessel was used to carry the oil from South Caicos to
Providenciales, North Caicos and Middle Caicos so that
the roads in these Islands could be constructed. He felt
that God had chosen him to do something special for his
country.
It is unfortunate that he died in February 2019 at the
age of 88, feeling that his country had not recognized
his pioneering contribution. Perhaps the Turks & Caicos
National Museum should record my father’s contribution
to maritime history of the Turks & Caicos Islands. a
Bradley Handfield is pastor of Community Fellowship
Centre Church on Providenciales and founder of
Community Christian Academy.
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Times of the Islands Summer 2020 19

island life
If the thought of owning a second home in a beautiful, peaceful, healthful place like the Turks & Caicos Islands appeals to you, consider a
luxury beachfront villa such as Aquazure (opposite page) or Mandalay (above). Both are currently on the market. Villa Aquazure is located in
the exclusive neighborhood of Leeward on the northeastern corner of Providenciales, while Mandalay Villa is newly renovated and sprawls
on Long Bay Beach in Providenciales.
A Time to Reflect
The lockdown brought to light TCI’s many positive qualities.
Like many successful businesspeople, I spent much time working, travelling and socializing. Sometimes
I was so busy, I didn’t always appreciate my surroundings or lifestyle. TCI’s strict lockdown and country
closure to control the Coronavirus pandemic was an opportunity for me, like many others, to have time
to reflect, enjoy life at a slower pace, and count our many blessings, especially the chance to live in the
Turks & Caicos Islands.
By Bernadette Hunt, Broker/Owner, Turks & Caicos Property
Images Courtesy Turks & Caicos Property
Times of the Islands Summer 2020 21

GARY JAMES—PROVO PICTURES

My son Tim and I were blessed in early December
2019 to have received an invitation from a friend to visit
Verbier, Switzerland and spend New Year’s with her and
her family. We jumped so quickly at it we bought tickets
that morning before having our breakfast. We had earlier
in the year visited with her at her residence in France
for Tim’s birthday in August. We found that the natural
beauty of both countries had such a profound effect on
us that we wanted to go back again this summer to both
jurisdictions.
On our return to the Turks & Caicos in early January
2020, I read about the Coronavirus online and felt that
this was something that I believed would affect my travel
for the rest of the year. I had plans to go to Miami and
attend a real estate conference in Las Vegas, but something
influenced me to cancel those plans and adjust
my thought process to being on-island for an unusually
extended period for me. I had also planned to return to
my homeland—Ireland—and hope to make that trip later
this year.
I am one of those Irish people who, when I catch a
cold, I get it really bad. Given that January to May is high
season for my real estate business, I didn’t want any
interruptions to my business by getting sick so I decided
to simply avoid airline travel for a few months. At that
time in January I never imagined that in two month’s time
we, along with the rest of our friends and TCI residents,
would be under lockdown as of March 27. I thought—as
many of us—that this would be a two to three week break
and then we would go back to work.
I looked at the first three weeks as a gift, a complete
break from work and a time to “be” and do small, normal,
routine things like make breakfast, lunch and dinner
and enjoy our lovely home. Believe it or not, I and many
people like me who work full time never really do spend
significant time in our homes. With curfews in place we
exercised in the mornings and evenings and got to see
people on our streets walking who we don’t normally see.
Weirdly enough, we can’t chat because of social distancing!
Here in the Turks & Caicos, we have been blessed
with a very strong governor in Nigel Dakin and the
amazing Sharlene Cartwright-Robinson as our premier.
Together with agencies like government departments of
Immigration, Police, Health and Customs they managed
this pandemic so well that the number of residents contracting
the virus is the lowest in the Caribbean, with only
one death.
24 www.timespub.tc

The food stores that remained open were managed
without incident and shelves were and are still fully
stocked. For visitors who decided to stay in the Turks
& Caicos and wait out lockdown, when some of them
really needed to get back home once the lockdown was
extended into May, our governor, government and the
private air centers assisted with charters back to Europe,
Canada and the US.
As of May 4, many of the restrictions imposed on
us have been lifted and we can now go to the beach—all
while observing social distancing, of course. On June 5,
real estate property showings were allowed, with strict
operating protocols issued by the Ministry of Health.
On July 6 we expect full reopening of the local economy
under established protocols. The country’s international
and regional borders are set to reopen on July 22, and all
are eager to welcome the first visitors back.
Recent online commentary regarding the difficulty
of social distancing in airports and the talk of instituting
“health passports” have given me reason to pause.
As I consider these issues and the comments made by
Warren Buffet as he sold his entire holdings in airline
stocks, I wonder if global travel will ever return to what
we were used to? Hopping off one flight and connecting
easily to another flight? I currently have friends who came
to visit for two weeks in March and when lockdown was
approaching, they chose to stay here—one continues with
her university studies online in my apartment.
Just since the beginning of May, I and other TCI brokers
have seen an increase in enquiries for real estate
in the Turks & Caicos Islands—not just from our closest
countries in North America, but also Europe. Transactions
are also happening and some at very significant price
points. I believe people know that the ease and flexibility
to travel that we have all enjoyed in the past will not
return, but one thing so many us have learned is that life
doesn’t stop. School and university doesn’t stop for students
and selling real estate didn’t stop for us brokers in
the Turks & Caicos.
What has happened is that we have all learned to
adjust to the changes. What I and many potential buyers
have learned is that Turks & Caicos doesn’t have to be a
place you just visit for a week or two here and there and
then you run back to your office. As so many of you are
now working from home, I am sure you have realized that
this allows you to work from anywhere in the world that
has high speed Internet access.
The Turks & Caicos Islands are a place where you can
spend a significant amount of time once you go through
what may be the tedious exercise of dealing with airports.
So many of my clients who have purchased here have said
to me, “Bernadette, we have been to every country in the
Caribbean and this is the first one that ‘spoke to us’ and
that is why we are buying.”
The Turks & Caicos has a natural beauty second to
none and an infrastructure that is as advanced as the
mainland. From my perspective, I feel that travel for the
next few years will not be as smooth as it once was and
so outside of the Turks & Caicos I believe I have found my
happy places. I know many of my friends and clients who
own here can’t wait for the borders to open to come back
and settle into their condos and villas.
I would encourage everyone who wants to improve
the quality of your life by having a second home, whether
it is a 500 square-foot studio in one of our beachfront
resorts or a large villa on the beach (like Mandalay), to
contact me to discuss purchasing a property in the Turks
& Caicos Islands. There is no better time to research
properties, given that many villas and condo buildings
are now vacant—allowing us easy access to take you on
a walk-through on a live video. This is helping my many
clients narrow their list of properties to purchase before
they even return to the island again.
If you are contemplating purchasing a property to
make the “Beautiful by Nature” Turks & Caicos Islands
your temporary or permanent home, I would be delighted
to help with your decision-making process. Without a
doubt I believe the Turks & Caicos will be THE happy
place for you and your family in times of uncertainty. a
Please visit our website at TurksAndCaicosProperty.com
to view all our property listings and learn more about
purchasing real estate in the Turks & Caicos Islands.
See our ad on page 5 opposite Table of Contents.
Times of the Islands Summer 2020 25

eye on the sky
A serene sunset over calm seas (opposite page) is a welcome and stark contrast to the stormy weather hurricane season can bring (above).
Hurricane Season 2020
Atlantic region expected to be active.
By Paul Wilkerson ~ Photos By Marta Morton, www. harbourclubvillas.com
Although hurricane season officially starts on June 1, by mid-May Tropical Storm Arthur was already moving
along the Outer Banks of North Carolina. What are we to take away from this early start to the season?
Is it unusual to have named systems in May?
The good news on systems forming before the official start of hurricane season is that, since 2015,
every May has had a named system. In some of those years, Atlantic activity was above normal, while in
other seasons, activity was closer to normal. So early starts don’t always mean we will see an overly active
season, but it doesn’t mean that it isn’t possible.
Times of the Islands Summer 2020 27

What is on tap for the 2020 Atlantic Hurricane season?
Currently, all data points to above-normal activity
between June 1 and November 1 this year. The National
Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA)
released their official hurricane season forecast on May
21, 2020. An above-normal 2020 Atlantic hurricane season
is expected, according to forecasters with NOAA’s
Climate Prediction Center, a division of the National
Weather Service. The outlook predicts a 60% chance of
an above-normal season, a 30% chance of a near-normal
season and only a 10% chance of a below-normal season.
Other government entities, private companies and institutions
of higher learning agree that this year looks to be
above average in terms of tropical activity.
Sea surface temperatures
There are several reasons above-normal activity is
indicated. One of the most important is Sea Surface
Temperatures (SSTs). Typically during the winter months,
systems that move through the United States will penetrate
down into the waters of the Caribbean to some
degree. These systems and the cool air they bring are
responsible for lowering the SSTs in the water around
the Islands. Generally speaking, it takes the majority of
Spring and into the early Summer for these waters to
recover their warmth. As we know, higher sea surface
temperatures act as the fuel for tropical systems, and
are important in sustaining tropical activity over the long
term. Without warm temperatures, tropical activity falters.
This past Winter and currently in late Spring, we
haven’t had strong cold pushes into the Caribbean. As a
result, sea surface temperatures are running well above
normal for this time of year—currently temperatures are
what we normally would see into June and early July. This
is one precursor to a possible active season.
Oscillation pattern
Secondly, we look to see what type of oscillation pattern
we may be under—El Niño, La Niña or Neutral. In El Niño
years, tropical activity is traditionally lower, thanks to
increased shear across the Atlantic and Caribbean. Shear
and tropical systems generally do not mix as shear tends
to tear apart systems that try to develop. Remember
that tropical systems do best in areas with weak wind
shear and where high pressure is present. When La
Niña or Neutral conditions are present, the atmospheric
conditions more routinely are favorable for tropical development
and sustainment of tropical systems once they
do develop.
For the Summer of 2020, the projection is for weak
La Niña conditions, or Neutral. This favors above-normal
activity.
NOAA
28 www.timespub.tc

Forecasting is a tough business
It is important to remember that while the seasonal
tropics forecast is calling for above-normal activity, it is
completely within the realm of possibility that the season
could not be as active. If El Niño conditions developed
unexpectedly, or there is unforecasted cooling of waters
in the Atlantic, seasonal predictions could very well be
off. Forecasting is a tough business, and many challenges
manifest in different ways. It will not always go according
to what the forecast shows!
Preparing for the season
It is understandable that the people of the Turks & Caicos
Islands continue to be uneasy with hurricane season,
based on the active years of the recent past which culminated
in 2017 with Hurricane Irma significantly impacting
the entire island chain. Many lessons have been learned
in the wake of that hurricane. It is important for island
residents to remember those lessons. Pay attention to
DDME when information is issued. Follow all of your government
officials’ recommendations. Get ready ahead of
time should tropical activity threaten you and your home.
This year, keep COVID-19 in mind when revising or
making your plan for how you will shelter and protect
your home, family and pets. Make sure that your family
and friends know what your plan is. It is always good
practice to make sure someone other than immediate
family knows your plan. This could help post-storm, as
others would know where to find you. Planning now will
ensure you are ready should weather threaten.
Lastly, it is important to remember that the odds of
a hurricane making landfall in the TCI are relatively low.
The Islands do experience an occasional system each
year that comes within close-enough reach to increase
rainfall, wave action and erosion on beaches.
It is vitally important that all TCI residents remain vigilant
and alert as we head into the 2020 hurricane season.
With proper knowledge and preparation, Islanders can
continue going about their normal lives with confidence
that should Mother Nature threaten, they have a plan to
be ready! a
Paul Wilkerson is an American meteorologist and tourist
who frequents the Turks & Caicos Islands. Along with
his wife and two daughters, the Wilkersons stay actively
engaged with Islanders throughout the year with his
Facebook page Turks and Caicos Islands Weather Info.
Times of the Islands Summer 2020 29

MICHAEL MORTON—WWW.HARBOURCLUBVILLAS.COM

giving back
Opposite page: Thanks, in part, to the work of the Turks & Caicos Reef Fund, scenes like this Green turtle tucked into a stand of colorful coral,
taken at The Bight Reef (Coral Gardens), are still to be found in the country’s clear waters.
Above: This thriving underwater scene features a colony of Dendrogyra cylindrus coral surrounded by a school of French grunts.
MELISSA HERES
On May 10, 2020, the Turks & Caicos Reef Fund (TCRF) began its eleventh year as the only environmental
advocacy non-profit in the Turks & Caicos Islands. Founded in 2010 by Don Stark and David Stone, TCRF
has worked tirelessly as an advocate for the TCI’s environment. Let’s look back and reflect on what has
been accomplished over the past decade.
Stewards of the Sea
Ten years of environmental advocacy.
By Don Stark, Co-Founder and Chairman, TCRF
Times of the Islands Summer 2020 31

Background
The Turks & Caicos Reef Fund (TCRF) was founded with
a mission of helping to preserve and protect the environment
of the Turks & Caicos Islands through education,
research and advocacy. It started and remains an all-volunteer-run
organization with no paid staff. The co-founders
agreed at the start that they were not in this to make
money, but to put at least 85% of every dollar raised into
specific projects. TCRF exceeded that goal every year for
the past decade and will continue to minimize overhead
and operating costs going forward.
Through March 2020, TCRF has raised a total of over
$1.1 million. All of the funds came via donations from
residents, visitors, local businesses, grants for specific
projects and fundraising events. We receive no funding
from the TCI Government.
Coral Gardens snorkel trail
So, what has the Turks & Caicos Reef Fund done with
all that money to help the TCI environment? Quite a lot.
One of our first big projects was the rehabilitation and
improvement of the Coral Gardens (Bight Reef) underwater
snorkel trail. We removed, cleaned and re-installed all
the trail markers. We replaced the ring of buoys intended
to keep snorkelers away from the shallowest parts of the
reef so they don’t get hurt and they don’t harm the coral.
We also added beach signage. (Unfortunately, it was lost
to Hurricane Irma, but will be replaced soon.)
Boat moorings
Dive and snorkel boat moorings are another big project
that has been ongoing since 2012. This work, conducted
under a Memorandum of Understanding with the TCI
Government’s Department of Environment and Coastal
Resources (DECR), has resulted in the expansion of dive
and snorkel boat moorings around French Cay, West
Caicos, North West Point, Grace Bay and Pine Cay. TCRF
has also been providing mooring supplies to the dive
operators on Grand Turk and Salt Cay to assist them with
the maintenance of their moorings.
This is important as it allows dive and snorkel boat
operators to take guests to the reefs and not have to drop
an anchor—potentially damaging the reef. On average,
this has been one of our most costly projects, consuming
around $30,000/year of our operating budget.
Coral nursery
Coral reefs around the world are endangered and the
reefs around the Turks & Caicos Islands are no exception.
Although TCI reefs are in better shape than the reefs
DAVID M. STONE
TCRF Chairman Don Stark tends to corals in the nursery at a site off North West Point, Providenciales.
32 www.timespub.tc

DAVID M. STONE
This TCRF volunteer is surveying a coral reef off East Caicos to help create a map of underwater habitats.
around many islands in the Caribbean, they have also
seen degradation over the past decade. In 2016, TCRF
installed a coral nursery at a site off the coast of North
West Point. We are raising two critically endangered corals,
Acropora cervicornis (Staghorn coral) and Acropora
palmata (Elkhorn coral). These two species were once one
of the primary reef-building corals throughout the tropical
Atlantic and Caribbean, but they were nearly wiped
out in the 1980s by a coral disease. Our goal is to raise
these two species in the nursery and then transplant
them to reefs where they once were abundant.
a labor intensive process where each affected coral head
has to be treated individually. The treatment we are using
is an antibiotic called amoxicillin. (It is often used to treat
ear infections in children.) The antibiotic is incorporated
into a ointment base that was specifically developed for
this purpose, as it minimizes the release of antibiotic into
the sea while increasing penetration into the coral tissue.
Although TCRF is just getting started with the treatment
effort, positive results are already being seen as the antibiotic
appears to be stopping disease progression in
treated coral heads.
Stony Coral Tissue Loss disease
There is a new coral disease that first appeared in the
Turks & Caicos Islands in early 2019 which is called
Stony Coral Tissue Loss Disease (SCTLD). This is a rapidly
spreading and highly lethal disease that affects around
20 species of corals found in the TCI, including all the
brain corals, pillar corals and star corals that are so common
on TCI reefs.
The good news is that the disease is treatable through
East Caicos
East Caicos remains the largest uninhabited island in
the Turks & Caicos Islands, and may be the largest uninhabited
island left in the region. But with talk of starting
development of the island by the TCI Government, it was
important to undertake a formal assessment of the health
of the reefs off its coast.
With funding from the European Union’s BEST 2.0
programme, between 2017 and 2018 TCRF conducted a
Times of the Islands Summer 2020 33

DAVID GALLARDO
Top: The Turks & Caicos Reef Fund’s SCTL Disease Project Manager Alizee Zimmermann treats an infected coral head with an antibiotic
ointment.
Bottom: South Caicos residents discusss potential ecotourism business opportunities.
survey of all the reefs around East Caicos. The result was
the creation of a map of the underwater habitats and a set
of recommendations as to what areas should have protected
status. Those recommendations were developed
based on input from the residents of South Caicos who
frequently use the waters around East Caicos for fishing
and recreation. The protected area recommendations
were submitted to DECR for consideration before any
development begins on East Caicos.
Advocacy
Advocacy has been another major activity for the Turks
& Caicos Reef Fund over the years. One of our biggest
successes was stopping Dolphin Cove from building a
“swim with a captive dolphin” facility on Grand Turk and
KATHLEEN MCNARY WOOD
Ecotourism
Also on South Caicos we worked with interested individuals
on ideas for ecotourism businesses. Since the
unemployment and poverty rates are so high on that
island due to the lack of fishing jobs, it was important to
help find alternative employment opportunities for the
local residents. Ecotourism businesses are ideal since
so many residents know the waters around South and
East Caicos well. At the end of the project, TCRF had
five residents who were interested in starting ecotourism
businesses on South Caicos, and we assisted with
drafting of initial marketing plans. The ideas included two
home-stay opportunities, a bonefishing kayak business,
kayak tours and boat ecotours.
34 www.timespub.tc

Providenciales. Another major success was TCRF’s lobbying
effort to bring the Environmental Impact Assessment
Reports for new developments in the TCI open to public
scrutiny.
TCRF has also provided input on many other projects
large and small, including input to the UK Government
about environmental issues in the Overseas Territories
and to the TCI Government on a proposed new
Environmental Strategy for the country.
Education
Education has been another important part of TCRF’s
work. The organization developed a marine ecology
curriculum for elementary school students that was
submitted to the TCI Department of Education for incorporation
into the curriculum. We have worked with
student groups from British West Indies Collegiate, TCI
Middle School, Maranatha Academy and Provo Primary
on various projects. We have also assisted with various
projects for the School for Field Studies located on South
Caicos.
Looking to the future
There have been many more projects over the years,
far too many to detail in this article. And there are a lot
more projects to be done. The Turks & Caicos Reef Fund
is proud to have been able to contribute significantly
to the protection of the TCI environment over the past
decade. We look forward to continuing to serve the TCI
for another ten years. a
Times of the Islands Summer 2020 35

MARTA MORTON—WWW.HARBOURCLUBVILLAS.COM

eautiful by nature
Opposite page: A Bahama woodstar hummingbird daintily sips nectar from one of its favorite flowers on the monkey-fiddle plant Euphorbia
tithymaloides.
Above: After the seasonal drought, the trees’ revival begins with the display of five-fingers Tabebuia bahamensis, its crepe-paper, baby pink
blossoms cheering up formerly dusty roadsides.
B NAQQI MANCO
Works Best Undisturbed
While we face confounding times, in the bush it’s business as usual.
By B Naqqi Manco, TCI Naturalist
I was that kid in the class who, when group projects were assigned, conjured every conceivable reason
to work independently. In a genetic culmination of my mother’s “get out of the way so I can get it done
correctly” and my father’s unapologetic introversion, I eschewed distractions of all kinds including workmates
and background music. To this day I don’t own a radio or television and while I’ve learned and
adapted to group work, I still tend to carry out my best productivity on my own, undisturbed in silence.
Times of the Islands Summer 2020 37

I recognise I’m not the tip of an iceberg in this
approach, but being a botanist sometimes means I’m as
much plant as I am person—and it’s in the green cohorts
that I find my kindred spirits. While this year’s second
quarter has presented some severe challenges to our
humanity, both obtuse and acute, from financial to emotional
to physical, I dare say not everyone in my circle of
friends has been so impacted.
Throughout the Turks & Caicos Islands’ beautiful
bush, the effects of an insidious virus, its travel-assisted
motility, and its unprecedented politicization are all
sharply missed by the trees and shrubs, epiphytes and
porophytes, monocots and dicots and angiosperms and
gymnosperms.
In short, the plants just don’t care. They’re not on our
timeline, and so they’re not bothered. If anything, they
are likely a little relieved that our efforts to bulldoze and
uproot and claim their land have slowed. Even the recent
seasonal drought, which is doubtlessly stressful, did not
see any of our native trees retreating to their couches
in bubbles of binge-watching online series and extreme
snack food experimentation.
The seasonal drought, while varying in severity, generally
strikes from February through May. In most years,
the tail end of the hurricane season’s moist air fizzles out
of showers a month past the New Year, and skies become
strikingly clear. Our mile-and-a-half deep foundation of
porous oolitic limestone becomes thirstier and draws
water downward, while a network of root fungi extracts
every bit of the retreating water it can and channels it
into their symbiotic partner trees’ roots. The trees transpire
it, losing the water to the wind. Some close their
stomata (the breathing pores on the underside of leaves)
to withhold water. Some forego leaves entirely and jettison
them. The drought-deciduous tropical trees perform
no flamboyant display as temperate deciduous trees do
in autumn—they extract all usable liquids as quickly as
possible and commit an uneventful lingering leaf dump.
Agave plants store up water through the rainy season,
their fleshy leaves loaded and succulent. Many annual
herbs die back completely, throwing down a scattering of
seeds, promising the return of rains in this final gesture.
B NAQQI MANCO
The yellow leaves of the buttonwood tree will drop and help provide cover for the land crabs that “walk” in May. Note the dark flowers that
give the buttonwood its name.
38 www.timespub.tc

This year’s drought was especially difficult for our
plants, as the temperatures rose earlier than normal
and the sky offered little shade from the intense sun.
Even drought-tolerant, milky-sapped nakedback tree
Euphorbia gymnonota, found only in Turks & Caicos and
the Bahamas, had to sacrifice precious foliage to prevent
desiccation. Bahama woodstar hummingbirds sought
out its nectar, usually a fountainous flow from glandular
flowers, but the flowers were thrown off in an attempt to
supply the long-growing seeds of older flowers with the
resources they needed to form . . . just in case they were
needed for a new generation to replace the old.
The rufous orchid Encyclia rufa has the nerve to
bloom in the height of the drought, its swollen pseudobulbs
bloated with hoarded water in a way that makes them
positively rotund compared to more gracile relatives.
These pot-bellied water bottles supply the plant with
enough sustenance to rocket a spike a metre skyward,
and then to open hundreds of yellow or cream coloured,
yeasty-scented flowers. With no other option for nectar,
the Mizinum wasps that pollinate Encyclia orchids are
given no option but to carry out their task.
Little else blooms, but most plants are busy on the
inside. Along with rationing water and managing leaf
loss, many are constructing microscopic, embryonic new
leaves and flowers. While we see the dry April bush as
dust-whitened, laxly sagging and surrendered, it is preparing
a surprise party.
That party won’t be revealed until long after those
first threatening clouds blow by, not even until after the
early season thunderstorms pass. But when the May rains
begin—heavy, large-droplet waves of downpours, warm
at first, and quickly cooling, the ground is given a signal
that passes through the humus, into the symbiotic fungi
and roots, up into the branches, as well as downward into
the soil.
The trees are the first to awaken. Their arousal is
subtle and internal at first. On the other extreme, the
land crabs are called forth like an army, digging upward,
freshly-hardened new exoskeletons prepared to shield
them from yellow-crowned night herons, females with
spongy egg masses ready to lay and tote to the sea.
They’re depending on the oncoming drop of old leaves
that did make it through the drought, especially from the
buttonwood trees.
The tree revival begins to appear with the ostentatious
display of five-fingers Tabebuia bahamensis, its
showgirl crepe-paper, baby pink blossoms cheering up
formerly dusty roadsides—the hummingbirds now have
lots to eat. New flushes of lime green and bronzy foliage
jump out of twigs throughout the bush. The rufous
orchid stems push out new divisions, appearing as spikes
from the bases of the plants, swelling into the bulbous
onion-shaped stem and two strappy leaves, as seed pods
swell on the pollinated, now flowerless stalks. Emerald
sprouts of the promised annual herbs carpet bare soil,
each ready to outcompete its neighbour. The Inagua
orchid Encyclia inaguensis snakes its own flower spikes
above its foliage, ready to follow up the rufous orchids’
exhibition. The Mizinum wasps will soon continue their
pollination cycle on this next species. Spangles of Havana
stars vine Jacquemontia havanensis festoon branches
bearing unfurling leaves, and everything rushes to make
and store food, flower and fruit, and complete another
life cycle in this precarious window between the drought
and the most intense storms of the year.
This is business as usual for the plants, which thrive
on the stress of being thrown between dearth and plenty,
calm and chaos, and the onslaught of insects about to
begin gorging themselves on all the new growth, and yes,
even the threat of age-old viruses that can infect them
and thwart their growth. They take it all in stride, silently
and stoically, if not sentiently.
Like most wild things, their lives are a balance of
terrifying events and barely-squeaking-by, fortune and
failure, tension and tenacity. They neither require nor
request assistance; they perform their best left alone to
their own devices, to survive another year and prove their
evolutionary worth by passing on the swiftest survival
traits to their following generations.
As long as we leave them alone—protect them,
admire them from a distance, and not attempt to intervene—they’ll
continue to be successfully dedicated to
survival. It’s only with interference that they’re truly in
danger—the threat of a bulldozer, a machete followed
by a fire, a dangerous pest we’ve introduced, or a human
plan for the land that doesn’t include them. It’s then that
survival becomes a challenge with poor odds.
That’s why I prefer to see them left alone. I can
identify with the impact of unwelcome distraction. Their
potential destruction reminds me that we, too, are neither
invincible nor immortal. Our survival depends upon our
adaptations, wise use of resources, knowing when to let
go of things we think we cannot live without, giving every
resource we can to upcoming generations, and having
some capacity to work on our own. Or, at the very least,
being able to adapt to being on our own without binging
on online series and plethoric snacks. a
Times of the Islands Summer 2020 39

green pages
Newsletter of the Department of Environment & Coastal Resources
Head office: Church Folly, Grand Turk, tel 649 946 2801 • fax 649 946 1895
• Astwood Street, South Caicos, tel 649 946 3306 • fax 946 3710
• National Environmental Centre, Lower Bight Road, Providenciales
Parks Division, tel 649 941 5122 • fax 649 946 4793
Fisheries Division, tel 649 946 4017 • fax 649 946 4793
email environment@gov.tc or dema.tci@gmail.com • web https://www.gov.tc/decr/
ANNA HANDTE-REINECKER
The tentacles of a Giant Caribbean Sea Anemone sway with the current in the shallows off of South Caicos.
As Far as the Eye Can See
When it comes to anemones, there’s more than meets the eye.
By Ben Farmer, Waterfront Assistant, The School for Field Studies
Anemones, perhaps the most frequently mispronounced animals in the sea, are fascinating creatures. The
vibrant colors and swaying tentacles characteristic of anemones are staples in the backdrop of tropical
coral reefs and tide pools around the world. While the tropics are where most anemones are found, they
can also be spotted in just about any marine habitat on Earth, from cold-water rocky shorelines to deep
ocean habitats. Anemones are able to populate so many habitats because of their incredible variation,
spanning over 1,000 known species.
40 www.timespub.tc

green pages newsletter of the department of environment & coastal resources
What is an anemone?
You may have seen them in the Turks & Caicos Islands
and wondered what makes these animals tick. In a lot of
ways, anemones are similar to corals, and even jellyfish—
they are all grouped into the phylum Cnidaria. Cnidarians
are considered some of the simplest organisms in the animal
kingdom because they lack what we would consider
organs. While you and I have a heart to distribute blood
throughout our bodies and lungs to transfer oxygen into
our blood, cnidarians lack these organs. Ultimately, cnidarians
are made up of just two sets of membranes, or
body parts—the epidermis (similar to our skin) and the
gastrodermis (similar to our stomach). So, if they don’t
have gills or lungs, how do cnidarians get their oxygen?
Cnidarians’ thin membranes are the key—these membranes
are in constant contact with water and allow
diffusion of oxygen into the body.
incredible acceleration that this event is considered one
of the fastest found in nature. When nematocytes on the
tentacles of a cnidarian are triggered by contact with
another object, such as a small tasty crustacean, they
launch hundreds of hooked barbs into the object and
begin releasing venom. Prey that are unfortunate enough
to be on the receiving end of these barbs are incapacitated
and then eaten by the cnidarian.
In the case of anemones, they have a mouth in the
center of an oral disc, into which their tentacles guide the
food. One species here in the Turks & Caicos Islands is
in fact a voracious eater. The Giant Caribbean Anemone,
Condylactis gigantea, is capable of eating not only crustaceans
and other invertebrates, but even small fish!
Anemone menagerie
Anemones come in countless colors, shapes and sizes,
BEN FARMER
Left: This upside-down jellyfish, genus Cassiopea, rests on the sand. Cassiopea is a cnidarian, the same phylum as anemones.
Right: This stony coral was found during a dive on the wall bordering South Caicos. Corals are cnidarians, the same phylum as anemones.
Simple yet deadly
What really sets cnidarians apart are their potent stinging
cells. If you have ever accidentally stepped on a jellyfish
on the beach or brushed against one underwater, you
may have had first-hand experience with this! These cells,
called nematocytes, are used by cnidarians to capture
their food as well as protect themselves. Nematocytes
stay spring-loaded at all times, ready to fire out with such
but perhaps the Giant Caribbean Anemone is the type
that comes to mind for most people. Even within this
species, however, exists a variety of color morphs. In
Jamaica, the Giant Caribbean Anemone has been spotted
with pink-tipped tentacles in deeper waters, and
green-tipped tentacles in shallower waters. These different
morphs might be linked to genetic differences in
how well the anemone absorbs sunlight. Many anemo-
Times of the Islands Summer 2020 41

green pages newsletter of the department of environment & coastal resources
ANNA HANDTE-REINECKER
The mouth of this Giant Caribbean Sea Anemone, partially obscured by tentacles, is located in the center of the oral disc.
nes require the sun to sustain them, however they also
need protection from the irradiation of sunlight. Here at
The School for Field Studies Center for Marine Resource
Studies on South Caicos, we have documented several
color morphs of the Giant Caribbean Anemone. Whether
or not these morphs are genetically distinct awaits to be
seen. In terms of other anemone species typically seen
around South Caicos and the other islands, a common
one is a type of corkscrew anemone. These are often seen
with symbiotic cleaner shrimp, which use the anemone as
both a shelter and a cleaning station.
Symbiosis galore
Part of what makes anemones so fascinating are the several
forms of symbiosis in which they take part. When
most people think of symbiosis, they think of a relationship
between two organisms which benefits both
organisms. However, symbiosis literally means “living
together,” and that does not always bode well for both
parties. Types of symbiosis include mutualism (a relationship
where both parties benefit from each other),
The Giant Caribbean Sea Anemone exhibits a range of color morphs;
this one displays purple tentacle tips.
commensalism (one party benefits, the other is neutrally
affected), and parasitism (one party benefits, the other is
negatively affected).
Thankfully for the anemone, it enjoys many mutualistic
forms of symbiosis. Perhaps the most well-known
is the anemone’s relationship with the clownfish. As
ANNA HANDTE-REINECKER
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A corkscrew anemone and a cleaner shrimp show off a form of symbiosis, where the shrimp uses the anemone for protection.
MELISSA HERES
made famous by “Finding Nemo,” the clownfish uses the
anemone for shelter, benefiting because the nematocytes
employed by the anemone keep predators away.
Additionally, the clownfish benefits because it supplements
its regular diet with the anemone’s leftovers, as
well as parasites on the anemone’s tentacles.
But how does the clownfish avoid injury from the venomous
nematocytes of the anemone? Strangely enough,
the answer lies in the fish’s mucus—clownfish have a
protective coating of mucus surrounding their body
which protects them from the anemone’s harmful stings.
Meanwhile, the anemone benefits because clownfish are
very territorial and fend off fish which eat anemones, and
also clean the anemone of sand and waste.
While clownfish are not native to the Caribbean,
anemones here have a few other incredible forms of
symbiosis. One is the relationship between the anemone
and the cleaner shrimp. A species of corkscrew anemone,
Bartholomea annulata, is commonly seen in the
Turks & Caicos Islands inhabited by Pederson’s cleaner
shrimp, Ancylomenes pedersoni. While it is not clear that
the anemone derives any benefit from the relationship,
the shrimp certainly benefits—a form of commensalism!
Fish know to come to anemone “cleaning stations,” where
shrimp get a nice meal by cleaning the fish.
Another symbiosis in which most tropical anemones
take part is one of the most fascinating mutualistic relationships
in nature: that of the zooxanthellae and the
cnidarian. Zooxanthellae, a type of tiny algae, live inside
the anemone’s membranes and perform photosynthesis.
The energy produced by photosynthesis is taken up by
the anemone, supplementing its carnivorous diet. The
zooxanthellae in turn benefit by living in a safe environment,
as well as receiving nutrients that they need for
photosynthesis.
Next time you see an anemone, remember there is a
lot more than meets the eye! a
For more information, contact SFS Center Director Heidi
Hertler, PhD at hhertler@fieldstudies.org.
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green pages newsletter of the department of environment & coastal resources
GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCK PHOTO
Soil is a complex combination of organic and inorganic matter that supports life as we know it.
It’s Not Just Dirt, It’s Soil!
Learning to compost on South Caicos.
We often forget to appreciate the soil beneath our feet. Soil, which is a complex combination of organic
and inorganic matter, supports life as we know it. Simply put, without soil, neither plants nor animals
would be able to survive. For this reason, soil availability and quality are tightly linked to food security
around the world.
By Anna Handte-Reinecker, Program Assistant, The School for Field Studies
Center for Marine Resource Studies
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Soil basics
To understand what makes up a healthy soil we must
look at its components. There are three major types of
soil particles—clay, silt and sand—differing in the sizes
of the individual particles. Clay contains the smallest
particles, followed by silt and then sand. These size differences
create soils that have varying amounts of space
between each particle; these gaps are called pore spaces.
Pore spaces govern the amount of water, air and nutrients
each soil type can retain. This, in turn, controls the types
of plants and organisms the soil can support. The ratios
of these particles within a soil determine the kind of soil
it is. For example, the soil type called “loam” is made up
of about 80% silt, 50% sand and 15% clay.
Soil is also incredibly important for filtering and
retaining water. It is estimated that 1 cubic meter of certain
soils, when fully saturated, can hold up to 600 liters
of water. This means that even during times of less rainfall,
plants are able to get the water they need from soil.
Furthermore, the water retention of soil can reduce the
amount of flooding in an area.
In addition to particle size, an important element of
soil is microbial presence. A generous number of bacteria
is an integral part of a healthy soil fit to grow a
garden. According to the United States Department of
Agriculture, “A teaspoon of productive soil generally contains
between 100 million and 1 billion bacteria.”
Bacteria often get a bad reputation for being dangerous
and causing infections. However, not all bacteria are
detrimental. In fact, many of the antibiotics we use today
are derived from bacteria found in soil. We even have
bacteria that live in our gut and allow us to digest food!
Soil and climate change
Healthy soil is an integral component of regulating global
climate. Global warming is driven by greenhouse gases in
the atmosphere. Greenhouse gases contribute to global
warming as they remain in our atmosphere and reflect
light waves back onto the earth, increasing global temperatures.
According to the US Environmental Protection
Agency, carbon dioxide makes up a whopping 82% of all
greenhouse gas emissions in the US (data from 2017).
Soil is an important “carbon sink,” meaning that when
carbon enters the soil through decomposition of organic
material, it remains there for long periods of time. The
only carbon sink that is larger than soil are our oceans.
Soil as a carbon sink is essential because it keeps carbon
out of the atmosphere and reduces global warming
due to greenhouse gases. Today we are facing unprecedented
soil erosion around the world, often due to human
development. As soil erodes, so does one of our essential
defenses against climate change.
How to make soil
So now that we know how important soil is, how can we
make our own, particularly in places where healthy soil
is scarce?
People have invented a way of expediting the natural
processes of decomposition in order to create soil for use
on farms. Composting is the process of fertilizing land
with decaying organic material. Incredibly, scientists have
determined that humans have used “reclaimed organic
matter for farming” since at least the stone age! By now,
there are many different types of composting methods to
accommodate different needs.
People have invented a way of expediting the natural processes of decomposition in order to create soil for use on farms.
GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCK PHOTO
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green pages newsletter of the department of environment & coastal resources
ANNA HANDTE-REINECKER
KATRINA ORTHMAN
Students from The School for Field Studies and community members
in South Caicos help with the construction of a hot compost heap.
In the TCI, we see a wide variation in soil quality and
quantity. From lush green Middle Caicos to arid South
Caicos, no two islands are the same. This spring, we
at The School for Field Studies on South Caicos were
determined to cultivate and grow our own garden and
compost. Led by the SFS Environmental Policy Lecturer
Dr. Neil Oculi, students and staff worked to create a type
of compost called a hot compost.
A hot compost is characterized by the heat it produces
as a result of organisms breaking down organic
matter. This type of compost relies heavily on proper
carbon and nitrogen ratios which in turn speeds up the
decomposition of organic materials. To start our hot compost,
we began by making an enclosure that would keep
out any unwanted horses and donkeys. We then began to
collect the materials that would make up the base of our
compost heap.
The four ingredients were nitrogen, carbon, water and
air. Green materials such as grass clippings and coffee
grounds are high in nitrogen, whereas brown materials
such as dead leaves and newspapers are high in carbon.
Our aim was to have a 30:1 carbon to nitrogen ratio in
order to facilitate the fastest possible decomposition of
organic materials. In general, having a 2:1 ratio of green
to brown materials will allow the compost to get close to
that 30:1 carbon to nitrogen ratio.
We layered brown and green materials into a heap
3 feet wide and 3 feet high. Next, toilet paper rolls were
added to allow for aeration. Then, in order to maintain
the compost, we mixed the heap weekly to promote aeration
and watered it every few days to prevent it from
drying out. Both lack of air and water can cause beneficial
organisms and bacteria to die, which we don’t want!
If a compost heap is constructed correctly, the heap’s
core temperature increases to about 54–60ºC. After a few
weeks we observed that our hot compost had reached
the optimum temperature and was successfully breaking
down the organic materials. The plan is to take this soil
and use it in our garden to grow herbs and vegetables.
Students and staff also worked closely with the
Marjorie Basden High School to begin construction on
a Hügelkutur and community garden. A Hügelkutur is a
different type of compost that consists of a mound with
wood in the center and compostable materials on top. A
benefit to the Hügelkultur is that it requires less water
than the hot compost.
Another great composting option for those with less
space is a vermiculture. To create a personal vermiculture,
all that you need is a large bin with a lid. You will
need to make multiple holes in the bottom, sides and lid
of the bin to allow for drainage and aeration. The next
step is to put a layer of soil or compost at the bottom
of the bin about 5 cm deep. Lastly, you will need to add
500–1,000 worms, which you can either order online or
collect from your yard. After your worms have settled in
for a week, you can add vegetable scraps, newspapers,
leaves and coffee grounds for the worms to eat. You also
want to make sure that your soil stays moist and you
water it regularly. Making these compost heaps were fun
and rewarding projects— be inspired to start your own! a
For more information, contact SFS Center Director Heidi
Hertler, PhD at hhertler@fieldstudies.org.
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MELISSA HERES
This is one of the few colonies of Acropora palmata, or elkhorn coral, in the waters surrounding South Caicos.
National Treasure
It’s time to appreciate our coral reefs.
By Melissa Heres, Waterfront Assistant, The School for Field Studies
For visitors and residents of the Turks & Caicos Islands, the sea—and particularly the reefs surrounding
the islands—serves as a source of food, a protective barrier from storms and waves, and a symbol of
natural beauty. Sitting on the shoreline, you cannot help but wonder what teems below the horizon, and
how the ocean looked long before we were here.
From the surface, the sea can seem somewhat stagnant, with only tides and storms changing its
behavior. Below the surface, however, we can see that the reefs are changing, in constant flux. Taking a
closer look at what lies below, we begin to realize just how important the oceans and coral reefs are to
our existence.
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green pages newsletter of the department of environment & coastal resources
Coral reefs are a conglomeration of many different
types of organisms. The main building blocks are stony
corals. These organisms lay down a skeleton of calcium
carbonate, or limestone, and are covered by a thin layer
of tissue. Within this tissue live zooxanthellae that create
their energy from the sun, a process known as photosynthesis.
The corals provide a home for these zooxanthellae,
and in turn, the coral uses the algae’s photosynthetic
waste for energy. Zooxanthellae also provide the corals’
beautiful colors.
Although most corals predominantly get their energy
from zooxanthellae, they can also eat and are actually
carnivorous! At night, they extend their polyps—tentacle-like
structures—and wait to catch zooplankton that
float by.
Early reef monitoring
So where did our modern research of coral reefs
begin? Most research is fairly recent due to the difficulty
of studying a habitat that was, until recently, simply
beyond our reach. The “Aqua-Lung,” a demand valve system
that supplied compressed air and was invented by
Jacques Cousteau and Emilie Gagan in 1942, opened the
doors for recreational SCUBA diving, and made studying
marine life more accessible.
Starting in the 1970s, Phil Dustan and John Halas
began monitoring Carysfort Reef off of Key Largo, Florida,
on behalf of the Key Largo National Marine Sanctuary.
In 1975, there was a field of Acropora palmata, or
elkhorn coral, surrounded by fish and a clean blue ocean.
The live coral structure is very rugose—it has a lot of
vertical structure, or nooks and crannies, where fish and
invertebrates can hide. Just 10 years later in 1985, the
reef starts to turn green—much of the once-dominant
elkhorn coral is beginning to die and become overgrown
by algae. In 2004, live coral tissue is scarce to find in
the picture, and mostly dead coral rubble, or skeleton,
remains. In 2014, the rubble is overgrown by algae, the
reef has lost much of its rugosity and is mostly flat. What
happened to that beautiful reef that existed back in the
1970s?
PHIL DUSTAN
From top and opposite page: These images show progression of the
same area of Carysfort Reef off Key Largo, Florida from 1975 to 2014.
The perils of overfishing
This photo set from the Florida Keys isn’t unique— many
different factors play a role in most of the Caribbean coral
reefs facing similar challenges. Ever-increasing popula-
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Coral bleaching
Coral bleaching events are also stressors that can cause
corals to die. Increased water temperatures and light
intensity can cause the system that turns that light into
energy to break down, leaving an overabundance of reactive
oxygen molecules, which damage the zooxanthellae
and the coral. The zooxanthellae that provide most of
the coral’s energy are expelled from the coral, leaving
behind a white tissue. If temperatures remain warm and
don’t give the zooxanthellae an opportunity to re-colonize
within the tissue, the corals are likely to die.
Ocean acidification
Ocean acidification is another very real threat for coral
reefs. As humans produce more and more carbon dioxide
as a byproduct of manufacturing, transportation, refrigeration
and cooling, oceans end up absorbing most of it.
When carbon dioxide and water mix, a series of chemical
reactions occur which result in the seawater becoming
more acidic. The problem is that many organisms in the
ocean, from corals to mollusks, rely on limestone, or calcium
carbonate, to build their skeletons or shells. This
increasingly acidic ocean water makes it that much more
difficult for these organisms to build their homes and
skeletons, and can even cause shells to dissolve!
Furthermore, different diseases have become more
prevalent within recent years; Stony Coral Tissue Loss
Disease is a very real, current threat to corals as it causes
the corals’ tissue to slough off of the skeleton.
PHIL DUSTAN
BEN FARMER
tions throughout the world increase demand for sources
of protein. For coastal communities, this often means
fishing to sustain their families, which leads to overfishing
if populations of fish species aren’t kept in check.
This particularly affects reefs when the herbivorous fish
numbers begin to drop. Without these fishes munching
on algae and controlling their levels, the algae begins to
grow unchecked. Furthermore, in the 1980s, a disease
affecting Diadema antillarum, or the long-spined sea
urchin, began to spread throughout the Caribbean, drastically
decreasing their numbers. Like herbivorous fishes,
these sea urchins also gnaw away at algae. Without these
grazers, algae then begin to smother corals, who need
sunlight to sustain themselves and grow. Without these
grazers, algae can also impede new corals from settling
on rocky areas.
Diadema antillarum, the long-spined sea urchin, was devastated by
a disease outbreak in the 1980s. They, like herbivorous fishes, gnaw
at algae.
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green pages newsletter of the department of environment & coastal resources
ANNA HANDTE-REINECKER
This colony of Orbicella annularis is likely hundreds of years old yet is currently being overgrown by algae on the left side and is partially
bleached throughout.
A valuable asset
What would we miss without these coral reefs? Tourism
to areas with coral reefs is estimated to be worth about
$35.8 billion globally every year. Diving on the reefs of
the Turks & Caicos Islands was worth an estimated $8.3
million per year in 2005, with other reef-related tourism
bringing in at least $9.8 million annually. Reefs also provide
a large amount of storm surge protection, and their
rugose shape absorbs much of the shock from storms
and hurricanes. Every year, the estimated value of flood
risk reduction provided by US coral reefs alone is more
than $1.805 billion.
Besides all these facts and figures, however, it is
important to consider future generations. Ultimately, a
dollar amount can’t begin to encapsulate the beautiful
natural reefs just outside our doors.
Hope for the future
Despite drastic changes in our reefs, we must remember
that although corals are facing serious problems that
must be acted upon, we also have to regain hope. Hope
that these corals have the opportunity to bounce back
depending upon how we move forward. Countless organizations,
foundations, and researchers worldwide are
working tirelessly to fix our broken system of consumerism
to quell climate change, to study these crucial coral
reef communities, and to raise awareness of these issues.
Locally, the Turks & Caicos Reef Fund, based in
Providenciales, is working on many projects including
reef restoration via offshore coral nurseries and disease
mitigation to stop the spread of Stony Coral Tissue Loss
Disease on individual coral colonies. At The School for
Field Studies Center for Marine Resource Studies on South
Caicos, we invite undergraduate students to study abroad
and research these pressing questions about coral reefs
and study populations of other vital marine life right in
our backyard.
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Staff and students at The School for Field Studies have been working hard to monitor local reefs off South Caicos in order to study the prominence
of Stony Coral Tissue Loss Disease, coral bleaching and species composition of corals.
CARMEN HOYT
How can you help?
What steps can you take to help make a positive impact
on these beautiful reefs? Climate change is currently the
biggest threat not only to our coral reefs, but to most of
our islands and the entire globe. Coral bleaching, ocean
acidification and even changing ocean currents ultimately
stem from our changing climate.
Taking this into consideration, a solution might be
living simpler. Try to drive less and bike or walk more in
order to cut back on those carbon emissions and save
money at the same time. Experiment with making and
eating more vegetarian and vegan meals and less red
meat, as carbon emissions from raising and transporting
cows is actually high.
Use the Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch
website, seafoodwatch.org, whenever thinking about
purchasing fish at grocery stores or restaurants to see
how sustainable and healthy your choice may be. For
instance, by switching to tuna caught from handlines,
much less bycatch (unintended catches such as sharks,
dolphins, etc.) will occur than those caught by longlines.
Generally, consume less, try to reuse old belongings,
and keep an eye on how many single-use plastics, such as
utensils, straws and packaging, you use. Trying to have a
positive impact on our world and environment can often
seem overwhelming; how can one person make a difference?
But keep in mind that your choices do matter on a
personal level, and you can use your knowledge to educate
others and help them make responsible choices as
well. The world is in your hands! a
For more information, contact SFS Center Director Heidi
Hertler, PhD at hhertler@fieldstudies.org.
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green pages newsletter of the department of environment & coastal resources
Ecosystems like Moxy Bush on South Caicos, a floating island of mangrove forest, are truly national treasures.
Hidden in Plain Sight
Taking a closer look at the Islands’ trove of natural treasures.
Story & Photos By Carmen Hoyt, Waterfront Assistant, The School for Field Studies,
Center for Marine Resource Studies
What if I told you I knew where to find treasure? After all, the history of the Turks & Caicos Islands is rich
with pirate lore . . . you just have to know where to look.
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The ages of exploration and piracy
Let’s take a trip back in time. The years spanning 1650
to 1720 were branded the Golden Age of Piracy, but the
story begins before that with its predecessor: the Age
of Exploration. It was during this time that the infamous
Christopher Columbus, an explorer and pirate in some
respect, set sail and made landfall in the Americas.
While the exact location of his arrival is up for debate,
our very own Grand Turk is a contender, along with San
Salvador and Samana Cay in the Bahamas. The resulting
“Columbian Exchange” between Europe and the New
World saw the transmission of peoples, goods and diseases
with detrimental effects on native populations.
As colonies matured, European empires grew powerfully
greedy and trade became a commercial venture.
Spain, the United Kingdom, the Netherlands and France
all established trade routes to the Americas (North,
Central and South) and back from the Caribbean, bringing
any necessary supplies and taking with them salt,
sugar, tobacco and precious metals. If only it were that
simple.
Now enter the Golden Age of Piracy. The transportation
of gold, silver and other items of high value during
this time didn’t come without some difficulties, namely
pirates. The various small cays (pronounced “keys”) of the
Turks & Caicos Islands harbored disgruntled ex-sailors
and rebellious treasure-seekers alike looking to intercept
vessels destined for Europe, their dreams of revenge and
a lavish lifestyle ignited by the loot they captured.
Amongst the more notable pirates rumored to have
roamed the Caribbean Sea during this time are Anne
Bonny and Captain William Kidd. We can thank Anne
Bonny, one of just a handful of fierce female pirates, and
her preferred island of residence for Parrot Cay’s original
name: Pirate Cay. As for Captain William Kidd, rumor has
it his treasure lies somewhere in the Turks & Caicos yet
to be discovered.
No doubt the Turks & Caicos Islands as we know
them today only vaguely resemble their colonial counterparts.
As the economy shifted from salt production to
tourism, investors and developers prepared the Islands to
deliver the quintessential Caribbean escape to American
The Admiral’s Aquarium snorkeling site on South Caicos is typically teeming with fish.
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green pages newsletter of the department of environment & coastal resources
Beautiful, but deadly, the lionfish (Pterois sp.) is a ruthless pirate in the underwater realm.
and European visitors alike. The high class allure of Grace
Bay, Providenciales was matched by the establishment of
a cruise ship port on Grand Turk in 2006, demonstrating
a new level of accessibility for foreign travelers aside from
the wealthy. Anne Bonny would certainly be surprised to
learn that a Google search of Parrot Cay populates links
for a luxury resort, yet she may be a bit annoyed to learn
she missed Wifi and air conditioning by just a few hundred
years.
As for Captain William Kidd and his infamous treasure,
sorry—I’ve got nothing for you; I had a different
treasure in mind. Here in the Turks & Caicos, we don’t
need maps to find the treasure that is present all around
us. We have vibrant and bustling coral reefs, pristine
meadows of seagrass and floating islands of mangrove
forests all hidden in plain sight.
The treasure of healthy habitats
Ecosystems like these are worth much more than silver
and gold. They protect our shorelines from erosion, serve
as important habitats for commercially significant species
of fish and form the foundation of the tourism industry.
Remember that quintessential Caribbean escape?
The pristine white sand beaches, kayak trips to secluded
islands and world-class SCUBA diving? It’s all made possible
by healthy coastal habitats. Such ecosystems are most
important in building a natural resistance to storm events
and boosting island resiliency in the aftermath, and you
can’t put a price on peace of mind.
Unfortunately, a new age of piracy is among us.
These ecosystem treasures are under siege from pirates
in the form of invasive species and excessive seaweed
inundations. Perhaps we shall refer to this new age of
21st century plundering as “Biological Piracy.”
The poster child of Biological Piracy is none other
than the invasive lionfish (Pterois sp.). Lionfish are venomous
fish native to the Indo-Pacific, and they are easily
identified by their red to black and white stripes and banner-like
fins that protrude on all sides, brandishing up to
18 sharp, venomous defense spines. Their showy appearance
has made them highly desirable in the aquarium
trade: the very origin of their invasive nature.
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This close-up of Sargassum clearly shows the small gas bladders that help it float along the ocean’s surface.
Since their introduction to the Western hemisphere,
populations of invasive red lionfish (P. volitans) and the
common lionfish (P. miles) have sailed the Gulf Stream
north from Florida, reaching as far as New York and
Bermuda before exploding through the Caribbean and as
far south as Brazil. These two species in particular are
difficult to tell apart and may even breed to form hybrids.
Lionfish are ruthless pirates without a shed of mercy
for their captives. They exhibit a wide range of prey from
small fish to invertebrates, eating and competing with
native fish. Lionfish have been shown to consume as many
as 42 different species, including commercially important
species of grouper as well as species of herbivores, like
parrotfish, responsible for keeping reefs healthy and free
of excess algae. Their stomachs can expand up to 30
times normal volume, and with no natural predators in
their invasive range, lionfish can reproduce without limitations.
Joining the ranks of the lionfish is the lesser-known
Sargassum, a plant-like macroalgae commonly referred
to as a seaweed. Instead of growing in the ground, it
grows small gas bladders to help it float along at the
ocean’s surface where it can monopolize sunlight for
photosynthesis. Individuals stick together like Velcro to
form large aggregations, or mats. While these mats can
grow wide spatially and cover a significant surface area,
they can also be very dense, capturing other floating
trash, organisms and debris in their path.
Under normal circumstances, these aggregations
are considered extremely important habitats, rich in biodiversity
and necessary to support fisheries. However,
Sargassum influxes started increasing in 2011, with
2018 being the most extreme year on record. Surface
coverage was triple the average of the previous seven
years. Blooms negatively impacted coastal regions from
the Caribbean to the west coast of Africa, wreaking havoc
by smothering both seagrass beds and coastal tourism.
If seagrasses are robbed of essential sunlight, they
can’t photosynthesize, and their ability to support the
islands through sediment stabilization, carbon sequestration
and protection for juvenile fish is compromised. Eight
of the ten most abundantly caught fish species on South
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The School for Field Studies has started long-term Sargassum collection at a bay on South Caicos to help track the inundations.
Caicos were found to use seagrass beds at some point
during their lifecycle, providing an invaluable service to
the fishing industry. As for tourism, the sight and stench
alone of washed-up Sargassum is enough to drive paying
customers away from any beachfront establishment. In
such large quantities, it makes the water uncomfortable
for recreational use but also expensive to continually be
removed.
While it is still not certain whether or not we will be
able to accurately predict raids of Sargassum blooms, it
is likely that they will continue to rise with consistent artificial
nutrient input. Upwellings provide a natural influx
of nutrients, but human-induced deforestation and fertilizer
use in agriculture allow nutrients in the soil to run
off with rain and enter ocean ecosystems stocked with
Sargassum seeds.
The School for Field Studies’ Center for Marine
Resource Studies provides university students with the
opportunity to participate in the research and monitoring
of both lionfish and Sargassum on South Caicos. Teams
of students, faculty, and staff participate in an “Invasive
Species Field Excursion” in which they search for and
remove lionfish while SCUBA diving or snorkeling.
Additionally, students have surveyed the seagrass
beds surrounding the island as a preliminary analysis of
ecosystem health as well as conducted controlled experiments
examining the effects of limited light, excess
nutrients and combined stresses on seagrasses as a
result of Sargassum influxes. We have started long-term
Sargassum collection at a nearby bay to help track these
inundations and assist researchers in exploring trash-totreasure
solutions for the Caribbean communities that
are most affected.
While the Age of Biological Piracy may not share the
same embellished tales of guts and glory as the Golden
Age of Piracy, one thing is for sure: we must protect our
treasure. Lucky for us, lionfish can be served as a tasty
meal. (May I recommend ceviche?) As for Sargassum,
companies in Mexico have experimented in making
paper, cosmetics, bricks and fertilizer. There is even
work being done to investigate developing an alternative
source of fuel from the seaweed.
So, the next time you’re asked to go on a treasure
hunt, don’t forget to stop and look around. What you’re
searching for could be hidden in plain sight. a
For more information, contact SFS Center Director Heidi
Hertler, PhD at hhertler@fieldstudies.org.
56 www.timespub.tc

PROVEN IN PROVO
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www.windsongresidences.com • realestate@windsongresort.com

BEATRIX NEUHAUS PHOTOGRAPHY
Beatrix Neuhaus is a passionate photographer and world traveler who found her home in the Turks & Caicos Islands. Her images are inspired
by the country’s beauty. This photo was captured over Chalk Sound, where she lives and works. She welcomes visitors at her studio by appointment;
please call 649 232 9966 or visit www.beatrixneuhausphotography.com. Beatrix believes, “ Images captured in moments of awe, joy of
living and love for all creation can touch our hearts.”

feature
The Rainbow Effect
By Kelly Currington
The year 2020—a new decade—started off with a bang! There were celebrations, friends and excitement
for the year ahead. Plans were in place for travel and adventures with family and friends; what a magnificent
year it would be! Little did we know that a silent storm was brewing that would impact the course
of the entire world.
Times of the Islands Summer 2020 59

The tsunami of COVID-19
COVID-19 was a term unknown to most, but it entered
our lives like a tsunami and instantly altered our terrain.
In what seemed like mere hours, the world went on lockdown
in an attempt to slow the wave of exposure to the
deadly virus as it rampaged across the globe, affecting
millions of people and taking hundreds of thousands of
lives. People scrambled to get back to their respective
countries if they were abroad, many went into an isolating
quarantine, and fear embedded itself in our lives. Fear of
contracting the virus, fear of a loved one contracting the
virus, and fear of the uncertainty of the future. Suddenly,
and without preparation, you could not go see your family
or friends, you could not go out to eat or shop, you
could not do anything that was part of “normal” life as we
had known it. Something new entered our world—social
distancing—a reality of which we had no concept.
Our comfortable, known world was transforming
so quickly that it was difficult to grasp. As businesses
were ordered to lock their doors, the domino effect of
job losses was set in motion. People were instantly without
jobs, without the necessary means to take care of
themselves or their families, and economies appeared to
be in jeopardy of devastating collapse. For the first time
in most of our lives we had no freedom to live without
conscious thought of every action.
I think one of the most notable tragedies was that
families couldn’t be together to mourn their loved ones
taken by the virus or any other death; a very lonely reality
had presented itself. We were living in a world we could
never have imagined just a few months earlier.
Constant news footage of the virus, and the staggering
sadness and uncertainty associated with it, saturated
our lives and made it hard to focus on anything else.
But then we started finding ways to exist in this “new”
world with hope and finding good in the little things.
Technology was now the avenue of family dinners,
girls’ nights, birthdays, anniversaries and even funerals.
Though it was not the same as physically being together,
it was absolutely better than nothing . . . so we adapted.
CYNTHIA FILO–SILLY CREEK WATERSPORTS
As humans stepped back during the COVID-19 inflicted “pause,” the sea and land had the opportunity to take a deep breath. This is
Providenciales’ southwest side Nature Reserve, typically accessed to visitors by Silly Creek Watersports (see page 97).
60 www.timespub.tc

Our environmental footprint
As humans we have stomped a huge environmental footprint
on the planet, and over the past several decades
that footprint has been heavy and severely detrimental
to Mother Earth’s health. We have poisoned her, stripped
her and stolen things we can never give back; enter
COVID-19. Irrespective of any political, medical or religious
beliefs you may have, some good has come from
this unprecedented time.
With almost every aspect of our world on lockdown,
the Earth started to slowly reclaim what we have taken
from her, like a flower at death’s door from a violent winter
suddenly showing signs of new life with the onset of
spring. Our footprints were suddenly eliminated and healing
seem to start immediately, with balance beginning to
creep back in.
With airplanes grounded, boats moored and people
not allowed to leave their space or gather, just-like-that
the planet started to breathe again. Evidence was visible
everywhere, and thanks to social media we were reminded
of just how much harm we have inflicted. Without the
noise, fuel and trash pollution created by the life we
(humans) have been living, the scales started to shift.
Signs of life were appearing in places void of it for so
long that we had forgotten it ever existed there. Marine
life was present in places it had not been seen in decades,
wildlife started to roam the residential areas that used to
be their home, and the air quality in places that had been
toxic was now clean. The scales are leveling . . .
TCI lockdown lets nature breathe
I can’t help but focus on the place I love most—the Turks
& Caicos Islands—and how this pandemic has affected
the tiny country. This “Beautiful by Nature” paradise is
home to over 40,000 residents and attracts more than a
million visitors every year, creating a strong and viable
economy. Now, the beaches are empty, the sugar-white
sand is undisturbed by humans, and the breathtaking turquoise
water is uncluttered of boats and noise. This will
definitely cause a huge financial strain on the country,
but it will also create a time of necessary change and
healing.
With the country on a strictly-enforced lockdown,
the ripples are affecting the land and the sea. No human
impact means they can breathe . . . deeply.
A constant on my mind has been the health of our
corals, especially the ones affected by Stony Coral Tissue
Loss Disease (SCTLD). After waiting seven months for
Times of the Islands Summer 2020 61

TCI Government distributed a daily COVID-19 report, showing how
well the country made it through the pandemic.
permits, the Turks & Caicos Reef Fund (TCRF) was only
able to start treating the corals less than a month before
the lockdown and had done one treatment transect. They
used a low-dose Amoxicillin mixture that is specifically
designed for this treatment method. According to TCRF
Project Manager Alizee Zimmermann, the combined ointment
is designed to expand into the grooves of the coral
along the disease margin and to minimize leaching into
the water. The treatment goes directly onto the coral
where it stays and is absorbed.
Prior to the pandemic, the disease had already spread
to Grand Turk, West Caicos and Providenciales, and the
concern was that with the cooler temperatures of the sea,
and TCRF’s inability to continue monitoring and applying
treatments; the disease may be spreading at an alarming
rate. The priority of this type of treatment is to save the
older, bigger colonies, as they have survived for 50–200
years. When the world came to an abrupt and complete
halt, the treatments stopped and the health and/or survival
of the corals was left to fate.
When TCRF divers were finally able to get back in
the water for the first time, they saw very clearly that
SCTLD has continued to spread on the reefs, but there is
some good news as well. One of the corals treated over
two months ago had not been taken by the disease, and
more importantly, had no new lesions. This is such a positive
discovery! With continued and consistent treatment,
there may be a good chance of preserving enough reproductive
tissue on the affected corals for them to continue
to populate the reef. So while the world above is fighting
the pandemic, the aquatic world has been fighting its
own battle in silence; now the treatments can continue in
hopes for a positive prognosis.
The lockdown time did not go to waste. The TCRF and
Ms. Zimmermann put together online, educational video
sessions for those interested in learning how to identify
infected corals and report them. They also learned other
ways to participate with the TCRF and be ocean warriors,
guaranteeing the future of protection and conservation
efforts in TCI.
With the absence of human presence, the overall
effects on the reefs will be positive; a regenerating and
recovering period; a time for them to rest undisturbed.
Another area of recovery that could be positively
affected by this situation is the conch population in the
Turks & Caicos Islands. The Caicos Conch Farm used to
be one of only two productive conch farms in the world,
and the largest worldwide exporter of the mollusk.
Hurricane Irma destroyed the farm, and to date it has not
been rebuilt. Without the farm to help supplement the
population and the over-harvesting of wild conch, natural
reproduction could not replenish them fast enough and
their numbers started to decline to the point of landing
conch on the endangered species list.
Most restaurants in the country serve the tasty white
meat in a number of forms, tourists buy the shells and
recreational operators prepare them for guests as ceviche
on the beach. Now with restaurants closed, no tourists
and boats ordered to stay in port, conch are safe from
human predation and can start to regain their numbers.
As well, natural predators of conch leave when
their food source dwindles, so without the intrusion of
humans, their numbers can make some gains. This is not
only good for them, but good for the creatures that hunt
them. This could mean an increase in population of eagle
rays, nurse sharks and loggerhead turtles in the Turks &
Caicos Islands—all of which attract snorkelers and divers.
More than a million tourists clammer to the TCI each
year. They come to soak up the sun on picturesque fine
sandy beaches, swim in the truly turquoise water and dive
the stunning reefs and dramatic walls. Tourism is the
main source of revenue and the absence of that income
is on everyone’s minds.
62 www.timespub.tc

Rainbow after the storm
The island community has pulled together during the
pandemic and the government has done an outstanding
job at keeping the people safe. Deciding to completely
close the country for four months was no doubt a difficult
decision, as it severed the economic blood-flow. But with
the TCI Government’s goal of protecting the people’s
health as the priority, it has worked.
When it is safe, visitors will be itching to return to the
TCI’s “Beautiful by Nature” paradise as soon as possible.
While what is normal may look and feel different, we will
adjust and continue to move forward with the TCI Strong
fortitude that has held the country together through
many a storm.
My whole life, I’ve heard and seen proven the saying,
“A rainbow follows every storm.” The COVID-19 storm has
definitely been a rough one, but the rainbow is coming.
Sometimes in life we take things for granted, not
because we are ungrateful, but because normalcy tends
to breed complacency. Losing those things can bring back
into focus how precious they are, and regenerate appreciation.
Being able to go outside, get in your car and drive
to the beach, or a restaurant, or a friend’s house, used to
happen without a second thought. Now that those liberties
are no longer available we realize how precious they
are, and how badly we want them back.
There is no question that this pandemic has caused
unprecedented damage across many aspects of life, but I
believe it will also bring about positive change. People are
communicating more, on a level deeper than a quick text;
college kids are back home with their parents and sitting
down to dinner and actually talking; families are making
home-cooked meals together instead of going out. We
realize that it isn’t the material things we miss the most,
but people and the togetherness of community.
When have you ever NOT looked at a rainbow? When
have you looked at a rainbow and NOT thought, “It’s so
beautiful—must be a sign it’s going to be a good day?”
The storm creates the rainbow, the rainbow creates a
magnificent display of natural beauty, and that beauty
instills optimism and hope. I call this the “Rainbow Effect.”
The storm has been rough and it isn’t over yet, but
the clouds are starting to clear, the damaging winds are
slowing and the light is starting to shine through. My
hope is that we use these lessons to move forward with
a new appreciative direction and outlook and continue to
care for each other and our planet, keeping in mind the
freedoms we lost, and the good that grew from the loss
of those freedoms.
Learning from this difficult time and making the
world a better place will give comfort and purpose, along
with a sense that the lives lost were not in vain.
It is imminent that in the near future the most beautiful
beaches in the world will be speckled with tourists and
locals, boats will head back out to sea and the Islands will
once again be alive with the sounds of human activity, the
enjoyment of life—the rainbow is coming! a
A huge “thank you” to every health care worker, public
service worker, and “essential” person who has worked to
keep the rest of us safe, while putting themselves at risk.
This includes grocery store workers, the folks ensuring
food and supplies get to the country, and even the public
for respecting the new rules and participating unitedly in
the solution.
Times of the Islands Summer 2020 63

eal estate
Away from it All
An investment in TCI real estate offers the ultimate in social distancing.
By Kathy Borsuk
I, like many other expatriate residents and TCI citizens, was gifted with a four-month “vacation in paradise,”
thanks to the global COVID-19 pandemic. In a wise move by the Turks & Caicos Islands Government,
the country’s borders were closed on March 24, 2020, one day after the first positive case of COVID-19
was recorded here. The last flight from Providenciales International Airport carried off the few remaining
visitors and “lockdown” began.
64 www.timespub.tc

The lovely curve of beach stretching along Providenciales’ north shore was virtually empty during the country’s COVID-19 lockdown.
GARY JAMES–PROVO PICTURES

At first, the whole situation was disconcerting.
Curfew was from 8 PM to 5 AM, and the rest of the time
we were supposed to stay sheltered in place, with brief
forays to the grocery stores, water companies, pharmacies
or gas stations (all of which always remained well
stocked), and exercise (walking, running and bicycling)
allowed for several hours in the morning and evening.
Until a loosening of the restrictions in early May, that was
it. Folks were encouraged to work from home, if possible,
but otherwise stay at home. All non-essential businesses
were closed.
After the initial shock, I fell into a comfortable rhythm.
Early mornings on the back porch were a time to read
the Bible and watch the “bush” sprout, bud and flower.
Sunrise was a watercolor of pink-tinged clouds and cool
breezes. Evenings, I explored our neighborhood’s nooks
and crannies, inhaled the fragrance of flowers and soaked
in the golden glow of approaching sunset. It was a time of
peace. Early in the lockdown, there were almost no cars
out and birdsong and seagull calls filled the air, while
folks smiled and hailed each other from opposite sides
of the road.
Beaches were closed until early May; once they
reopened, it was a pleasure to swim or walk in the soft
sand along the quiet, empty shoreline. It reminded me of
the Islands two decades ago.
Due to the government’s foresight and cautious
approach, and a powerful and concerted National Day of
Prayer, the Turks & Caicos Islands fared well, with only 12
cases of COVID-19 and one death. The whole experience
turned into a welcome respite from my normally hectic
life, in a strange sort of way—except for the days when
we watched too much CNN. It was also quite different
than what my parents and brother and sister were experiencing
in the United States.
Real estate surge
Therefore, I was not surprised when I heard local real
estate agents saying that inquiries into TCI properties
had actually increased during the pandemic. The Turks
& Caicos Islands are and will be a good place to live in
this strange new world. Social distancing comes naturally
here. Privacy and space are still to be had. The sunny
skies, clean air and sparkling sea promote health and
well-being. Natural beauty, along with modern amenities,
are both abundant. And the stable, UK-backed government
has proven worthy to handle a global crisis with
wisdom, caution and grace.
My forays around Providenciales by bicycle and foot
revealed the extensive construction of villas and homes,
both for private and vacation rental use, in nearly every
area of the island, from coastline to interior. It is clear
that business is booming, and will continue to do so, as
an island villa offers the ideal place for a first- or second-home
escape from “civilization,” with built-in privacy,
comfort and all the social distancing you want.
Real estate sales and construction have been surging
in the Turks & Caicos Islands for some time, as investors
discover this “jewel” in the Caribbean. In fact, 2019 was
a record year for luxury sales, with the first quarter of
2020 following suit. According to Turks & Caicos Sotheby
International Realty’s (TCSIR) most recent market report,
“In times of crisis, markets come back first to quality,
and our market is rich in quality of real estate, in tandem
with a tremendous wealth of talent in our Turks & Caicos
community and passionate private and public sectors to
support and protect it.”
The Turks & Caicos Real Estate Association (TCREA)
first quarter MLS figures as of April 6, 2020 showed that
the momentum in sales gained through the last two years
of record sales continued, with 74 sales (residential and
commercial) totaling $65,692,748, for an average price
of $887,740. Single family homes continued to carry the
sales volume at $34,533,250, with 17 sold at an average
price of $2,031,368. Condominium sales remained
steady at $15,753,000, with 17 sold at an average price
of $926,647. Land sales dipped slightly from 2019 first
quarter, totaling $15,406,498, with 40 parcels sold at an
average price of $385,162. However, TCREA reports that
significant land parcel sales are pending.
Interestingly, past and potential purchasers are tapping
into TCI real estate websites with their beautiful
scenes and virtual tours as respite from the pandemic
blues. TCSIR reports that one customer says she “craves
beach more than ever,” a simple reminder of the sanctuary
this country represents.
Government support
I don’t mean to underplay the impact four months of
closure of all resorts and tourism-related businesses will
have on the TCI economy and the industry’s employees.
It has been tough and will continue to be for some time
to come. That’s one reason that investors will find a welcoming
environment, with price flexibility a possibility.
Thankfully, the TCI Government early-on implemented
a stimulus package to help “flatten the curve” of
the virus’s impact on residents’ and small businesses’
pocketbooks. With input from the TCREA Government
66 www.timespub.tc

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Liaison Committee, the real estate industry benefited
from three incentives to boost inward investment. They
are currently valid until June 30, 2020.
• 50% reduction in Stamp Duty across all islands
• Waived Custom duties on construction material
• 50% reduction in planning fees
Throughout the border closure and lockdown, both
the TCI Government and people responded with discipline,
diligence and faith. Thanks to the steadfastness
of essential workers in all sectors, there was never a
shortage of food, fuel or medicines. Police checkpoints
at major intersections ensured adherence to the stay-athome
regulations. Residents took to the routine of hand
sanitizing, face masks and social distancing with quiet
dignity and typical good humor.
The two hospitals on Providenciales and Grand Turk
were well prepared for any outbreaks, with protocol and
equipment in place early-on. Quarantine measures were
put in place for folks in contact with suspected cases of
the virus and residents returning from overseas. As well,
the UK Government sent a “Specialized Assistance Team”
of doctors, medical planners, logisticians, security specialists
and planners as back-up.
A new world of opportunity
Besides TCI’s blend of exclusivity, privacy, safety and
security, Forbes Realty’s Sara Kaufman notes that due
to recent volatility of the stock market, real assets may
become more appealing for investors. At the same time,
now that people have a taste of slower, more peaceful
days, Sara anticipates an increase in retirees and the
search for a lifestyle such as offered on North, Middle and
South Caicos, along with other family islands in the TCI.
Chandra Craigg, real estate agent at ERA Turks &
Caicos, believes that in a world of uncertainty in business,
travel and health, we now have an opportunity for people
to write their own story. In an age of unscripted territory,
real estate will provide opportunities for buyers, sellers
and agents to creatively fulfill their goals. She notes
that certain aspects of the real estate business will be
enhanced, such as digital connectivity through video conference
applications such as ZOOM, followed by increased
verbal communication and one-on-one dialogue. Besides
working remotely from home, many TCREA realtors offer
the latest technology for virtual showings, a tool long in
use in this island nation where the majority of clients are
outside of the country. This allows investors to get into
the market immediately, while COVID-19 stimulus incentives
are still in place.
68 www.timespub.tc

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COURTESY TURKS & CAICOS PROPERTY
Is it any wonder there is a surge in real estate inquiries in the Turks & Caicos Islands since the COVID-19 pandemic? What better place to
work from home and “social distance”!
Realtors agree—NOW is a good time to step into
the TCI real estate market and secure your safe haven
in paradise. Selections of properties from homes, villas,
condominiums, rental properties and land are available
across the Islands. There are also opportunities for entrepreneurs
to start new business ventures, especially on
the outer islands. This includes B & B operations, ecotourism
sports lodges, boutique hotels, family-run nurseries,
commercial hydroponic orchards . . . use your imagination.
Especially appealing to retirees and folks looking
for a second home are some of the new developments
currently underway, as the construction industry was
allowed to re-start (under regulation and inspection) on
May 11.
New developments underway
In mid-May, construction resumed at the Ritz Carlton
Resort & Residences on Grace Bay, TCI’s first 12-story
structure and major five-star international luxury hotel
brand. Walter Gardiner of Regency-Christie’s International
Real Estate says the project is still on schedule for a Fall
2021 delivery. He notes, “Our experienced construction
team has completed floors 1 to 12 of the hotel and residence
tower A, with construction of residence tower B
approaching the 10th floor. Also completed are structures
for the casino, spa, ballroom, fine dining restaurant,
beachfront bar and grill, two of the three resort pools and
the parking garages.
The exclusive South Bank project, a low-density, residential
resort and marina development, is located in quiet
Long Bay and ideal as a haven for folks looking for privacy
in a waterfront environment. (See page 74–75 for
more details.) It, too, resumed construction in mid-May
on homes in the Ocean Estate and Lagoon neighborhoods
under careful health and safety restrictions.
Another new project on Providenciales’ quiet, less
developed southeast side is The Villas at Turquoise Banks,
set on two acres along the shores of Long Bay Beach.
Designed by award-winning architecture firm RA Shaw
Designs, this gated community of six, three-story luxury
villas was designed to be a sea-centric tropical retreat.
It has a number of technological innovations new to the
Islands, including non-visible solar panels on the roof and
the use of a Tesla Model 3 vehicle. Each villa integrates
the Google Nest system with smart thermostats, outdoor
cameras, interactive doorbell, smart speakers and smoke,
heat and CO detectors, all able to be monitored and controlled
from your phone anywhere in the world.
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TWATIMES_Layout 1 2/16/17 7:49 AM Page 1
Beach Enclave Turks & Caicos’ collection enables
homeowners and guests to experience their own private
villa home coupled with the facilities and amenities of a
five-star resort. With locations on Long Bay, North Shore
and Grace Bay—each with a unique personality—all properties
feature private homes ranging in size from three
to seven bedrooms, a private beach area, private pool,
spacious indoor/outdoor living areas, and much more. All
villas are serviced by a dedicated private butler, private
chef, concierge, and resort staff.
The TCI’s out islands still remain quite untouched by
development, although they benefit from stable power,
transportation and telecommunications services. Sailrock
is an evolving development on the country’s fishing capital
of South Caicos. The project won the “Caribbean’s
Leading Luxury Island Resort” at the 2020 World Travel
Awards.
Sailrock Resort opened its doors in January 2017 as
the only five-star resort on South Caicos, bringing a new
level of luxury to the quiet island, without disturbing
the peaceful rhythms which make the island so alluring.
Sailrock includes 33 suites and villas spread over 52 hilltop
and oceanfront acres. Residences are supported by
the Great House, a central hub housing a lounge, ocean-
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Times of the Islands Summer 2020 71

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view deck and upscale restaurant and bar. Travelers
looking for a Caribbean home-away-from-home will find
it in the Private Peninsula Villas in a neighboring 770-acre
enclave with an ecological focus and full access to the
resort amenities.
Back in Providenciales, a new independent hotel,
The Bight by Dream Hotel Group, was launched in early
February 2020. This innovative condo-hotel, designed
for short-term vacation rentals, is located in West Grace
Bay and offers elevated beach views from its ridgetop
location, along with beach access. Joe Zahm, president of
Turks & Caicos Sotheby’s International Realty, who is representing
the project, notes that the Dream Hotel Group
gives credibility to US buyers who are familiar with the
brand and acquainted with the level of services and amenities
they offer. They are in partnership with longtime
TCI residents Ryan Jones and Natalie Zaidan of the EA
Group, who say, “We want to recreate the magical Turks &
Caicos experience that people have when they come here
for the first time and never leave. We find that the market
really needs a four-star boutique property with culture,
design, art, experiences and adventure.”
Andaz Turks & Caicos Residences, on the 5 1/2 acre
beachfront parcel to the west of Coral Gardens, is taking
shape with site preparation well underway. Expected to
be completed in early 2022, the project will include a
59-key hotel and 74 luxury residences — including nine
penthouses. Andaz is a branch of the “World of Hyatt”
international brand.
Construction also continues on the Oceanfront and
Ridge Cottages and Hilltop Condos at the Rock House
Resort. The stunning location on Providenciales’ North
Shore provides breathtaking views for its 39 private cottages
and 4 hillside homes on the 14 acre site. As part
of the Grace Bay Resort’s treasure chest of properties,
owners and guests enjoy use of the group’s dining and
lounge options, fitness center, spa and tennis courts.
The developers of Wymara Resort have completed
five villas on the dramatic shoreline of Turtle Tail and are
now introducing a second collection of five villas. They
include the signature above water sundecks and stunning
hillside location.
Also by the Wymara developer is the new H2O Life.
Style. Resort., located adjacent to four acres of pristine
parkland on Long Bay Beach, a haven for kiteboarders.
Currently under construction, the project includes
15 exclusive units in one, two and three bedroom condominums
with lock-out suites to maximize rental
opportunities.
72 www.timespub.tc

Modern living in the prestigious Leeward neighborhood
is possible at the new Upper East Side Estate. Under
construction are 12 private, luxury villas on almost five
acres of land with gated access and a paved main street.
Three- and four-bedroom options are available, each with
an open deck leading onto a private pool.
With the successful completion of Grace Bay West,
Latitude 22 is launching Karaya Blue. This private residential
development features six luxury villas on three acres,
located in a peaceful setting minutes from Long Bay
beachfront. The signature architecture with glass walls
surrounding the living areas welcomes the outdoor views
in. Pre-construction offerings afford purchasers ability to
tailor the design finishes to their own wishes.
TCREA agents agree that buyers looking for a private
villa in a luxurious neighborhood would best start
their search in the Providenciales areas of Leeward, Long
Bay, Turtle Tail and Chalk Sound. Long accoladed as the
“World’s Best Beach,” Grace Bay is the place to look for a
condominium. A private island experience can be had at
Amanyara, located on Providenciales’ remote northwest
shore or on the exclusive islands of Parrot Cay, Pine Cay,
Ambergris Cay and West Caicos.
At home
Residency status in the Turks & Caicos Islands can take
on a new importance in the “new normal” of global pandemics,
unrest and the desire to isolate. Available is a
homeowner’s permit, valid for five years and allowing
recipients and their family members to come and go as
they wish. Purchasers of any home or condominium valued
over $300,000 can apply for the permit to the TCI
Government. These permits do NOT include the right to
work. The government fee is $1,500, plus legal fees.
With a real estate purchase over $1 million, investors
can apply for a Permanent Residence Certificate (PRC),
granting the applicant and spouse the right to reside
in TCI for life. Children can be endorsed until they are
18 years old. The cost is a one-time government fee of
$25,000, plus $1,500 for spouse and $500 per child,
along with legal fees. PRC status can lead to TCI (British
Overseas Territory Citizenship) and, potentially, a British
passport.
Note that foreigners also have the unrestricted right
to purchase property, and there are no real estate taxes.
Turn your attention to the Turks & Caicos Islands as
you look into the uncertain future. For even though the
world has changed, the country’s “Beautiful by Nature”
way of life remains the same. a
john redmond associates ltd.
architects & designers
construction consultants
project management
p.o.box 21, providenciales, turks & caicos is.
tel.: 9464440 cell: 2314569 email: redmond@tciway.tc
Times of the Islands Summer 2020 73

Sanctuary
South Bank development
recommences construction.
By Kathy Borsuk ~ Images By South Bank
During Turks & Caicos’ four-month COVID-19 lockdown,
when borders were closed and residents
encouraged to shelter in place, I, like many others,
took to the roads by foot and bicycle. Especially in
the early weeks when restrictions were more severe,
the early morning and late afternoon “exercise
hours” had people out and about in the fresh air
and sunshine. My forays often took me past South
Bank on the southeastern shore of Providenciales,
on the ocean in Long Bay Hills. Each time I passed,
I thought of the fortunate folk who would soon live
in this peaceful area of natural beauty.
The South Bank residential resort and marina sprawls
over 30 acres, its borders the captivating 2,000 feet of
ironshore just east of the South Bank Marina and 230 feet
of beautiful beach on Long Bay. Here, the ocean shimmers
in deep turquoise tones, occasionally glass-calm, occasionally
rustled by the cooling tradewinds. At the edges
of the day, the lush indigenous vegetation appears burnished
in golden tones that speak of serenity.
Windward Long Bay Ltd., developer of South Bank,
models their projects on creating an exclusive, low-density,
water-based experience and South Bank is no
exception. Each of the various neighborhoods offers residences
featuring a unique relationship with the water
and having their own pools and gardens to create private
spaces within an embracing enclave.
The Ocean Estates encompasses four- to seven-bedroom
beachfront and oceanfront villas facing
the vast Caicos Bank, a protective shallow-water sea at
Providenciales’ south flank. Walls of glass, oceanfront
pool decks and courtyard terraces are designed to seamlessly
merge indoor and outdoor spaces. The homes’
signature features are stunning infinity pools, with a
transparent end that seemingly floats above the water.
Three beachfront villas perch on an elevated dune overlooking
the aptly named Long Bay Beach, stretching to the
horizon at the west.
In The Lagoon neighborhood, residents can enjoy
three- to five-bedroom beachfront villas with their
For more information, visit livesouthbank.com. For an
appointment at the Experience Lounge, email contact@
livesouthbank.com. To read more, go to https://www.
timespub.tc/2019/03/water-water-everywhere/.
own pools on a unique
swimming lagoon, with
some properties having
their own boat docks.
At The Launch there
are one- to three-bedroom
townhouses, called
Boathouses because each
has a private rear terrace
with a boat dock suspended
over the water.
Each residence features
generous kitchen and
living/dining areas, handmade
for entertaining family and friends. Homeowners
and their guests can partake of South Bank resort amenities
including watersports, tennis, gym, spa, restaurant
and bar, along with multiple beach access areas. Also
available are in-villa dining and spa treatments, with private
chefs and wellness experts. The entire South Bank
property is security gated.
74 www.timespub.tc

Top: This artist’s rendering shows the plan for the South Bank residential resort and marina, including each of the various neighborhoods.
Bottom: There are only two Ocean Estate Dune Villas available at South Bank. Their elevated position and expansive frontage ensures
breathtaking views of the Atlantic Ocean across the Caicos Bank.
Earlier this year, the
horizontal infrastructure
works were completed,
including underground
utilities and roads.
Villa construction on
the Ocean Estates and
Lagoon areas also started
and has recommenced
after the COVID-19 lockdown,
following the TCI
Government’s cautious
health and safety restrictions.
Residents and visitors (once TCI borders open on
July 22) can learn more at the Experience Lounge located
on-site. It is open for appointment adhering to strict
health protocols.
At the same time, the South Bank Marina is being
fully re-invigorated to deliver service and facilities for
the adventurous South Bank lifestyle. The main dock is
currently under renovation, with a new fuel system and
floating docks with around 60 slips ranging from 20
to 120 feet. South Bank homeowners can enjoy a Boat
Concierge program that allows them to simply call in to
order their boat to the designated launch spot fully maintained,
fueled and provisioned . . . then drop it back off
after their day trip. Conveniently blissful!
In keeping with its nature-oriented lifestyle and corporate
mantra, earlier this year, South Bank Resort & Marina
provided the Turks & Caicos Reef Fund with a dedicated
office and training facility in the recently renovated South
Bank Marina building. It has already been used to train
volunteers in fighting the Stony Coral Tissue Loss Disease
on TCI reefs. Ingo Reckhorn, director of the South Bank
development explained the generous donation, “South
Bank has been crafted as a destination for lovers of the
marine environment. Protecting the wonders above and
below the surface of our beautiful waters is tremendously
important to us and our buyers.”
In this uncharted “New World” we live in, it’s good to
know there are sanctuaries to be found. a
Times of the Islands Summer 2020 75

MARTA MORTON—WWW.HARBOURCLUBVILLAS.COM

feature
Opposite page and above: For many of our contributors who spent the spring “hunkering down” in the Turks & Caicos Islands, the country’s
natural beauty provided solace and respite from the fear and anxiety of the global pandemic.
GARY JAMES–PROVO PICTURES
Lessons from Lockdown
Times of the Islands contributors share their experiences.
Whether ending up on- or off-island, regular Times of the Islands contributors faced “shelter at home”
requirements due to the global COVID-19 pandemic. We asked them to share their thoughts and experiences
during this major disruption to our usual way of life.
Times of the Islands Summer 2020 77

Life and freedom are precious
Story & Photos By Kelly Currington
I am sitting on the sofa at my best friend’s house,
looking out the window at a view I have seen hundreds
of times before, but it now looks and feels very different.
Along with the rest of the planet, I am trying to make
sense of and navigate through this new world we are now
faced with . . .
I was on a liveaboard dive boat where I work as a videographer,
100 miles north of the Dominican Republic in
the Silver Bank, swimming with North Atlantic humpback
whales when everything changed in a matter of hours.
We were told the port was going to close and we needed
to return or be shut out, so halfway through our week we
headed back in. As I sat with my sister, we stared out at
the sea and talked about the amazing encounters we had
and the prospects we might have had if the charter had
not been cancelled. We wondered what was waiting for us
back on land. What I was sure of was that the holiday my
sister and I had waited a year for had now been cut short.
She and the rest of the guests boarded flights home
the next day and I caught the last flight back to the United
States from Santiago, Dominican Republic the day before
the United States closed its borders. To say I was anxious
doesn’t even begin to describe what I was feeling. Never
before had I even thought about not being able to get
back to the US if I wanted or needed to, but it was now
a matter of urgency or I would not be able to return for
an unforeseen length of time. The sea is my happy place
and where I long to be, but being “stranded” away from
my family was something I could not comprehend.
Once I made it back, the reality of what was happening
started to sink in. Being confined inside and unable
to see family and friends was inconceivable, but here it
was our “new normal.” At first it wasn’t too bad, almost
like being on vacation without being able to go anywhere
or do anything. Then, with the constant news coverage
of the fear and increased reports of deaths every day,
I started feeling very uneasy and scared—something I
rarely feel. Scared of the virus; scared of my future.
I was very aware of the trickle-down effect of this sudden
and complete lockdown. With no one traveling and all
non-essential businesses shut down, borders closed and
an unemployment rate that was skyrocketing daily, tourism
was going to take a huge hit. I kept asking myself,
“Will I have a job to go back to?” “If not, will I be able to
find a good job in the States?”
Within a couple of weeks the world had changed and I
did not know how to deal with it. No one knew how much I
was struggling because I didn’t show it. Instead I decided
to keep a journal about everything that was happening in
my life during this pandemic. Writing gave me an outlet
for my thoughts. It allowed me to visually see anything
good that happened in a time of sadness and fear. It
would be a documented account of this unprecedented
season in our world that my children and grandchildren
could read in the future, and understand how I coped.
Not working or having a purpose each day left me
feeling very useless and nonproductive, with too much
time to think. I decided to try to find temporary work,
doing whatever I could to make enough money to pay the
my few bills and help with food. While ordering groceries
online, which had now become the norm, I realized this
was a viable market. In a world where millions of people
had lost their jobs, I was able to get temporary work helping
others stay safe in their homes by filling those online
grocery orders—a multifaceted blessing.
As divers, my mates and I stayed in touch and shared
our fears about our future. We knew we would be out of
work for a while, some possibly permanently, and the
stress of that was something we all handled differently.
Many of us decided to use this down time to work on
ourselves. I signed up for some online courses and sem-
78 www.timespub.tc

e back underwater shooting again. My soul may hurt,
but I am safe.
What I will forever take from this unexpected change
in our world is how precious life and freedom are, and
how quickly they can be taken away. I have cherished the
time this has given me with my family and I treasure the
little things more than ever, holding on to them tightly.
The sound of my granddaughter saying my name is
etched in the recorder of my heart and I listen to it when
I start to feel the stress creeping back in—her precious
voice can calm even the strongest storm.
inars to keep me connected to the diving realm, which I
desperately needed.
I spent a lot of time in my own head, mostly trying to
sort out the stress, fear and anxiety of the uncertainty. I
knew I had to change this or it would get the best of me,
so I made a decision to deliberately direct my thought
process and focus on the good, positive and happy
aspects in my life, and I am aware I have plenty.
I thought about the amazing journey my life has
taken me on and the experiences I have been so blessed
to have had. I thought back to the time before diving,
when I was so phobicly afraid of sharks that I would not
even consider putting my feet in the ocean, and most
certainly would not have gotten on a boat. That’s when
the three “E’s” entered my world. A decision to take a
Discover Scuba course (Exposure) set me on a path that
changed my life forever. I became a scuba instructor
and spent thousands of hours in the water with sharks
(Experience), changing that unrealistic and media-fed
fear into true love and respect for these creatures. This
inspired a determination to protect them (Education).
Focusing on that journey and all the amazing people who
guided and supported me helped when the anxiety of not
knowing when I will be able to get back to the sea set in.
It helped me stay tuned-in to the blessings in my life.
I thought about how lucky I am that most of my family
are safe and healthy and able to continue life with the
only disruption being social distancing—a small sacrifice.
I thought about how fortunate I am to have family and
friends who are taking care of me during this uncertain
time of waiting. They have given me a safe place to shelter
and they support my goal of returning to the life I
love. They accepted my occasional emotional meltdowns
as I sat with my camera case open, staring at the images,
tears streaming down my face, aching for the day I would
There is beauty in every storm and this pandemic is
no different. Some good has come with humans being
on lockdown. Wildlife has started to reclaim or revisit
places they have been absent from for decades. With the
lack of human interference and the damaging footprints
we leave behind, nature flourished, the air we breathe is
cleaner, and we realize that it is not the material things
we miss the most, but instead it is the time with loved
ones we long for. This gives hope for a better future, but
only if we learn from this situation and make changes to
the way we interact with this planet. Mother Earth needs
balance to survive and I hope we as a species learn to give
back, at the very least, as much as we take. The reality is
that we need the planet—”she” does not need us!
I’m looking forward . . . a
Times of the Islands Summer 2020 79

Resplendent silence
By B Naqqi Manco, TCI Naturalist
On a high traffic day on Bellefield Landing Road in
Kew Settlement, North Caicos, we might see a dozen
cars roll by. Dogs lying side-down on the narrow strip
of asphalt are barely bothered to move and aside from
the breeze and the birds, my landlord’s firm “Yo!” to the
drivers is all that’s heard. It’s difficult to conceptualise an
inhabited place quieter than North and Middle Caicos.
The COVID-19 quarantine period of 2020 showed
us a new—ah, old—side of the Turks & Caicos Islands.
The country did indeed wind down. The ferries toting
day-trippers ceased. Flocks of rental cars were corralled
into inactivity. Daily commuters to the docks vanished.
Fume-billowing school buses and dump trucks desisted
from their roars and rumbles. The frequency of the “Yo!”
declined to barely one a week—usually to Her Majesty’s
Royal Police.
As streets around the world emptied and bustling
urban centres fell into an eerie, post-apocalyptic stupor,
documentation of peculiar natural events—both factual
and fallacious—began appearing on social media. The
first I remember seeing was a poorly edited photo of
Venice, captioned with a claim that following the dearth
of anthropogenic disturbance and pollution, dolphins
had reinstated themselves in the waterways, frolicking
Flipper-esque along the Canal Grando. A similar meme
appeared with equally image-doctored swans swarming
over the same aquatic routes, then another appeared with
hundreds of photo-replicated pink flamingos.
Eventually the memes began lampooning themselves;
one celebrated the return of blue whales flying through
the now-clear skies of at least three Eastern European
megapolises. Ridiculousness manifested itself into the
claims, and I was asked if the slightly more credible
claims were true. There being no solid evidence, I told
my associates to get-a-hold-of-themselves and brushed
off the memes as products of boredom. But then, the
deer showed up downtown.
A friend of mine shared a video made from a police
dashcam in an urban neighbourhood of Pittsburgh. A family
of deer a dozen strong placidly allowed themselves to
be herded along by the squad car’s gentle advance. They
moved forward, ignoring a direct route of escape into
wooded hillsides and made a sharp left onto the main
drag of the town. Looking less like typical deer gripped
in fight-or-flight response and more like a blasé meander
of window-shopping stags, they occasionally glared at
80 www.timespub.tc
the car with an anthromorphised accusatory scowl. They
would not be hurried. As humans no longer had the ability
to execute their myriad daily things-to-do, the does and
bucks opted to see what it was all about. “Surely there
must be something to it if they like doing it so much,” I
imagine the deer queried, and “Now that they’re out of
the way let’s go see what it’s all about.” Tragically, they
will have missed some of the better points of the tour,
with things like soft pretzel stands and upmarket confectionary
shoppes being shuttered; most likely they’ll
have returned to the oak-hickory forests with an apathetic
aftertaste for whatever so obsesses the naked apes.
Meditating on the downtown deer on an afternoon
stroll through my garden, I noticed the first gray kingbirds
of the season had arrived from their winter in
Hispaniola, their sharp trills notably more audible against
the silent backdrop. The return of the Antillean nighthawks
a day later was revealed by their distinct staccato
buzz as they swooped after the season’s first mosquitoes.
The scratches of a land crab’s legs on a rock and a
curly-tail lizard’s telltale dead-leaf-scattering were clear,
but not unusual, sonorities.
But a week later, in the midst of complete lockdown,
an evening promenade around the garden led to a startling
encounter. There, right on the lawn in the open, was
a Key West quail-dove, one of Turks & Caicos Islands’
rarer birds. Inhabiting only the shadowy floor of the tallest
dry tropical forest in southwestern North Caicos, these
mahogany red pigeons are notoriously shy and retiring.
To date none of my colleagues has been able to get a
meaningful photograph of the species, and yet there one
was, its iridescent green and purple neck glossing the low
sunbeams back to me, its distinctive eye stripe concealing
its otherwise obvious focus on looking for insects and
seeds in the grass.
B NAQQI MANCO

Key West quail-doves in North Caicos unequivocally
object to people and our preposterous noise—their tolerance
is so low that I’ve met people who have lived in Kew
Settlement their entire lives and have never seen one. But
since that day, this bird has made its presence in the yard
a habit. Without cars rumbling by and with considerably
less noise, it exposed itself from its clandestine life on
the dark forest floor each late afternoon. Then it brought
a friend. The pair struts about the now all-but-abandoned
back road throughout the day. They’re still difficult to
photograph, but I’ve at least captured one on my camera
that is identifiable.
But I’m not the only one with photographic proof
of this natural takeover. In late May, photos and videos
appeared on social media of one of my familiar
haunts with a nostalgic twist. Twenty years ago, I lived
in Bambarra Settlement, before the causeway linked the
islands of North and Middle Caicos and before the roads
were paved. Day trippers were so rare there was only one
occasionally-functional rental car on the island.
Bambarra Beach, with its expansive sandbar jutting
half a mile towards Pelican Cay, was only ever peopled
by the rare fisherman or rarer winter villa visitor. My peanut-butter-coloured
potcake usually accompanied me,
and unfortunately that’s why I never got to see the flamingos
up close.
Flamingos have tolerance toward humans but no time
for canines, and on several occasions, I only arrived in
time to see a flock of roseate Caribbean flamingos wheel
around the sandbar in post-take-off surveillance swoop
before their group’s line undulated over the Casuarina
trees back inland toward the protected ponds. Since
Bambarra Beach has become such a popular stop on the
regular tourist route, the flamingos retired the location
from their usual circulation.
But this May some truly impressive flocks of flamingos,
hundreds strong, appeared on the sandbar at
Bambarra Beach. Taking advantage of the unpeopled
beach and low tide smorgasbord, they’ve settled in daily
to reclaim their former habitat. A flock 194 strong, including
196 recently-fledged first year birds, was enjoying the
sandbar the day I carefully, respectfully (and dog-lessly)
visited. While flamingos may not be festooning the Grand
Canal in Venice, they certainly are reinforcing their prerogative
on one of our most picturesque beaches.
Let me not run from my identity as a cynical curmudgeonly
misanthrope—I indeed hope somehow things
don’t go back where flamingos would be expunged from
Bambarra Beach—yet I recognise and honour the unprecedented
difficulty this collapsed-coal-kiln of a year has
thrown at so many people. But the fact that wildlife is
showing us that they need space that we use, and they
only avoid it because we really are nature’s most obnoxious
production, should give us a second-guess of how
we comport ourselves going forward.
One of my favourite literary works notes that after
careful restoration of nature, “Then the Lorax and all of
his friends may come back.” I’ll do what I can to maintain
the silence, but I’ll also enjoy its zenith while I can. I’ll go
out this evening to greet the not-quite-anatopic Key West
quail-dove, and who knows? Perhaps along the empty
streets I’ll catch a glimpse of a Lucayan family. a
DEMITRI HARVEY
Times of the Islands Summer 2020 81

DON STARK
Puzzling it out
By Don Stark, Turks & Caicos Reef Fund
I never realized how obsessive I was until the lockdown.
Looking for things to do, we raided a friend’s
condo for some jigsaw puzzles. Once I got started, it was
hard to quit. Just one more piece . . .
Add to it, my lovely wife is also obsessive, so there
was competition—who can do the majority and the fastest.
I always did the outside edges to get us started. a
Here or there?
By Jody Rathgeb
Over the years, hurricanes have taught Turks &
Caicos Islanders a thing or two about crisis. As someone
who divides time between North Caicos and Richmond,
Virginia in the U.S., I’ve also learned this: With a hurricane
imminent, I’d rather be at my island home than worrying
about my friends and property from afar. But the COVID-
19 crisis was something new, and as I stayed at home I
kept wondering: Would I rather be here or there?
There’s no doubt that my restrictions in the U.S. were
lighter than those of the Islands, and even before phased
openings, our “rules” were suggestions rather than punishable
requirements. Events were canceled and many
businesses closed, but we had no curfew and could go
outside to exercise at any time of day. We couldn’t visit
restaurants, but they were allowed to provide takeout and
delivery. Our liquor stores stayed open, I could have wine
delivered, and the Internet gave us entertainment, communication
and plenty of laughs.
Most importantly for me, I was able to continue my
passion for making mosaic art. The galleries/studios
building where I work was closed to the public, but those
of us with studios were still able to use them. I could get
my exercise walking there, then make art while isolated.
Yet my mind kept drifting to North Caicos. In Whitby,
I’d be doing mosaics on my front porch in consistent
sunshine instead of slogging across a bridge in rain and
wind. And, oh, how I missed the ocean! I knew that those
on island, forbidden to go to the beach, also missed it,
but would at least the sight of it provide compensation?
What a useless question to ask! Here or there wasn’t
a choice, so instead of pondering it I put my yearning
into mosaic. I designed a large reef scene and brought it
to life in glass and glass tile. It took more than a month
of steady work, but “Reef Scene” brought here and there
together for me.
My COVID-19 onus has been light. I didn’t lose
income (I’m retired) and I had a satisfying activity to carry
me through. But my heart was often in the Islands, and
I followed the lockdown trials of my friends and neighbours
daily. I tend to dislike clichés and trendy sayings,
but this time one has been true: We’re in this together,
here and there. Even and especially across international
borders. a
TOM RATHGEB
82 www.timespub.tc

Camera to the rescue
Story & Photos By Marta Morton,
Harbour Club Villas
We are grateful and luckier than most as our rental
villas are tucked away on the south side of Providenciales
and already somewhat isolated. Our last guests left early
in mid-March, and so we have the whole of Harbour Club
Villas to ourselves. This meant a larger area that is not
as confined and restricted as some for our self isolation
during these horrific and anxiety filled months.
I’ve had some good days, but all too many where
panic would escalate as the anxiety threatened to overwhelm
me.
Thankfully, my camera comes to the rescue. I disappear
for a few hours to the pool or marina with my
camera in hand to photograph the flowers and birds.
There’s nothing better than to just sit and wait for the
many birds and lizards to drop by the water bowl.
I wonder about tight living quarters confined on a
small sailboat in the marina while self isolating, as some
are doing now. Ports remained closed so even if you
leave, where would you go, and hurricane season is just
around the corner.
There’s nothing more calming and soothing than
spending hours enjoying these simple pleasures and photographing
nature’s wonders.
My “norm” is found in all the beauty that surrounds
Harbourus, Club:Layout but the “new 1 8/17/16 norm” is 10:16 yet to AM be determined Page 1 as we
watch and wait to see how this will impact our lives and
the future of our tourism-based livelihood.
No matter what happens and as the saying goes,
“Beautiful by Nature TCI” will always hold true. a
Harbour Club Villas
Turtle Tail Drive, Providenciales
Six one-bedroom villas.
Dive operators at our dock.
Bonefishing in the lake.
Fabulous beaches nearby.
Ideal for couples or groups.
Our entertainment during the current dry spell and
quarantine is to take the hose and spray water on all the
foliage and plants. It doesn’t take long for the birds to fly
in for a cooling bath, and of course I just snap away.
I love sitting on the hill overlooking the marina to see
the changing moods and colours of the ocean as well as
wandering down to the lake out front.
Trip Advisor
Travellers’ Choice
Awards Winner
E: harbourclub@tciway.tc
T: 1 649 941 5748
See our website
for details.
www.HARBOURCLUBVILLAS.com
Times of the Islands Summer 2020 83

Quiet without students
Story & Photos By Dr. Heidi Hertler,
SFS Center Director
The School for Field Studies is a US-based study
abroad program. We operate field research stations
around the world and each semester welcome students
to study local environmental issues.
On South Caicos, our program focuses on marine
resource management. Students come to study the coral
reefs and their local and global value. The field is our
classroom and we use tools like SCUBA and snorkel and
underwater photos and videos to collect data.
In early March of this year, our program started
to change quickly! In a matter of days, field trips were
canceled and students recalled to home institutions.
By March 18, all our students had returned home, and
courses moved to an on-line format.
That can be tricky when your program is based on
hands-on learning. Eight staff remained on campus to
deliver the remaining program. This small group formed
a unique household. Although our vehicles and vessels
were quiet, we were not. Our team was able to complete
12 academic credits and a new 3 credit course that
explored and analyzed some of our larger data sets. On
site, we also continue to share sunsets with our students.
South Caicos became a quiet place to live and work.
Inside the center, we shared responsibilities of cooking
and cleaning and completing small projects around
the property. We discovered new ways to exercise and
interact with nature. For me, reconnecting with the environment
was spiritual. When students are here, we focus
on them and research. From our oceanside perch, we
spend hours watching eagle rays swim gracefully, schools
of fish jumping and Frigate birds soaring.
As the Turks & Caicos starts to reopen, we are again
able to dip our feet into the ocean. We look forward to
restarting our research, including a project with the Turks
& Caicos Reef Fund to slow the spread of Stony Coral
Tissue Loss Disease.
What we have learned from this experience is how
flexible and resilient we really are. We are grateful for the
support from our local and global family. We look forward
to our students’ return, but similar to the time after
Hurricanes Irma and Maria in 2017, this will be a new
normal for all of us. We wish all our students, colleagues,
and visitors a safe and healthy summer! a
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astrolabe
newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
front street, p.o. box 188, grand turk, turks & caicos islands, bwi
tel 649 946 2160 • fax 649 946 2160 • email info@tcmuseum.org • web www.tcmuseum.org
These locally made baskets were displayed at the Museum’s 2019 “Back in the Day” event, a celebration of the TCI’s cultural heritage. They
are also the hoped-for result of Daphne Forbes’s basket weaving classes at the Museum’s Heritage House.
TURKS & CAICOS NATIONAL MUSEUM
Giving to Protect the Past
Over the last several years, I have spent much time in this space discussing why it is important for
the Museum to expand our operations to Providenciales. However, with the COVID-19 crisis, I want to
stress that the Museum—as we exist now—continues to need public support. Over the last several years
we have expanded our programs to document the past and increase fundraising and community programming.
We need the help of our readers to keep these programs going. Details on the Museum’s
reopening and new programming will be provided soon.
In this edition of the Astrolabe, we present two features that uncover fascinating facets of the Islands’
history. Dr. Andy Ciofalo describes new research techniques that help to reveal the types of foods and
beverages prepared by the Lucayans—TCI’s first inhabitants. Captain Eric Wiburg continues his series
on the impact World War II had on the Turks & Caicos Islands. This time, he explores the sinking of the
Dutch freighter Luna by a German U-Boat, and the rescue of its shipwrecked sailors by residents of Blue
Hills, Providenciales. a
Dr. Michael P. Pateman, Ph.D., Director, Turks & Caicos National Museum
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astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
This area in northwest Providenciales likely looks similar to what the first migrants to this island saw.
Foodways, Life and
Archaeology
How ancient people cooked on Providenciales.
Story & Photos By Dr. Andy J. Ciofalo
Food is a social lubricant, which means it brings us together, gets people talking and is a central point
of gatherings, holidays and life. Do you remember cooking your last meal? The way you sliced, pounded,
boiled or roasted the vegetables damaged small molecules inside them known as carbohydrates (also
called starches). These carbohydrates stick to or become ingrained within your pots, pans and other utensils.
Hundreds or thousands of years from now, future archaeologists will be able to find some of your
leftover food still stuck to your kitchenware: bowls, forks, knives and plates, etc. In essence, this is what is
being done now to unfold and retell stories about the daily lives of the people who lived on Providenciales
in the Turks & Caicos Islands hundreds of years ago.
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Palmetto Junction
Using innovative archaeological
methods for reconstructing ancient
culinary practices, my research
has revealed stories of the original
“Belongers” that have never been
told. Prior to the arrival of Columbus
in 1492, little is known about the
daily lives of the Indigenous Peoples
who lived in the Turks & Caicos
Islands. However, there is some
evidence and it is widely believed
that the TCI functioned as an interaction
sphere and trading hub for
Hispaniola (comprised of modern-day
Haiti and the Dominican
Republic).
Since 2014, I have been carrying
out archaeological fieldwork on
Providenciales. Students and team
members from the University of
Central Florida and Leiden University
in the Netherlands have been working on this area now
known as Palmetto Junction, which is located along a
narrow isthmus on the western end of Providenciales.
Radiocarbon dating of several types of cultural remains
such as charcoal from fires, animal bones and shell have
provided calibrated dates of AD 1391 ± 41 years, which
helps suggest that Palmetto Junction was regularly occupied
for more than 100 years prior to European invasions.
Palmetto Junction is also one of the largest sites discovered
in the Bahama archipelago (The Bahamas + the Turks
& Caicos Islands), covering nearly 20,000 square meters
of activity areas and likely households.
Archaeologists clamor over old trash piles because
of the vast amount of information able to be recovered
about peoples’ daily lives and particularly what they ate.
Palmetto Junction is exceptional for the Bahama archipelago
because it has more than 20 middens (trash pits).
From these remains, it appears reef fish and hutia (a type
of rodent) contributed a significant portion of meat prepared
for consumption. Typically, plant remains do not
preserve well in tropical areas because organic remains
decompose quickly in humid and hot soils. However, cutting-edge
methods and techniques allow archaeologists
to reconstruct and hypothesize how plants were used in
Above: University of Central Florida student team members excavate an archaeological unit at
“Palmetto Junction” on Providenciales.
Below: Students screen through excavated dirt looking for artifacts.
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astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
These are examples of shell artifacts and fragments of clay griddles analyzed in Dr. Ciofalo’s research on “Starchy Foodways.”
the past. This is one of the topics from my PhD dissertation
entitled “Starchy Foodways: Surveying Indigenous
Peoples’ culinary practices prior to the advent of European
invasions in the Greater Caribbean.”
Secrets of starch
Starch is a simple form of a carbohydrate and 98% of
plants produce starch. They are small molecules, which
average in size at roughly half the width of a human hair
follicle (20 microns). Based on their size, shape and a
variety of other characteristics, starches can be identified
to certain botanical taxonomic (scientific classification)
levels and they preserve well in tropical areas.
After recovering artifacts that were possibly used in
ancient kitchens, such as ceramic pots, clay griddles (flat
cooking plates), shell knives, limestone tools and more,
they are delicately scraped with dental picks to dislodge
microbotanical (starch) remains. After weeks of excavation
and lab work in Providenciales, these samples were
brought to the Faculty of Archaeology, Leiden University
in the Netherlands. I use a high-power microscope to
find and identify starches from the samples. Carefully
and tediously, each starch is identified, which reveals the
types of plants that were prepared. Additionally, ancient
cooking methods and other culinary practices such as
grating, grinding and pounding leave visible damages to
some of the starches. The way the starches were damaged
or altered allows me to interpret how people in the
Turks & Caicos Islands prepared their vegetables.
Hot off the griddle
When Europeans first invaded the Americas (AD 1492),
manioc was referred to by the Arawak name yuca and
only the flatbread made from this type of tuber was called
cassava (originally cazabi). The name manioc is derived
from the South American Tupían word maniot, with the
first written record from the 1550s on the coast of Brazil.
Because the Spanish chronicles mentioned cassava bread
so frequently and described its production using clay
griddles, for centuries archaeologists assumed this was
the only function of clay griddles. At the beginning of the
millennium (AD 2002), starch analysis was first applied
in the Caribbean and the researchers discovered that
many other plants, such as maize (corn), sweet potato,
bean and cocoyam were prepared on clay griddles in the
Caribbean. However, manioc was absent from the results
of these initial investigations.
My dissertation discovered that many of the clay griddles
recovered from Providenciales were used to cook
manioc as well as maize and Zamia (also known as coontie,
a poisonous but nutritious plant not currently found
in the Turks & Caicos Islands). The use of zamia, yam,
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astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
Above: These are examples of recovered starch grains viewed with a microscope.
Below: An analysis of this ceramic bowl with weaving impressions revealed that it may have been used to make a fermented (possibly alcoholic)
chocolate beverage that was sweetened with maize (corn) and spiced with chili pepper.
manioc, sweet potato and the
prevalence of recovered maize
offers a narrative that there was
consistent and unrestricted use
of maize as well as a diversity of
root crops used by Indigenous
Caribbean Peoples.
Shells involved
Another significant finding from
this work was based on a comparison
of shell artifact samples
from two sites in the Dominican
Republic and Palmetto Junction.
This case study provides additional
evidence for the use of
exogenous (originating from
outside the research area) plants
in the northern Caribbean and
recognizes culinary practices
according to which certain plants
were pre-cooked before being
processed further using bivalve shells. From the data, it
appears that processing heated plants with shells was
a successful and reinforced culinary practice spanning
these two islands and three sites.
Humanizing with food
This does not imply that all three sites were connected
or interacting, but perhaps they were situated within a
constellation of practice. Interpretations from this data
offer explanations regarding which ways of making food
offered modes of stability in dynamic environments.
Manioc, sweet potato, beans, certain types of yams and
maize were exogenous to the Greater Antilles and the
Bahama archipelago. In addition, they require human
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astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
assistance for cultivation. Accordingly, recoveries of
remains of these plants imply mobility and exchange or
ultimately transported landscapes from different areas to
these islands.
The comparison of results has exposed particular
human niche constructions, several exogenous plants
that were mobilized for trade and/or human-adaptation
to these islands. This is a story of people who were constantly
moving around and traveling from island to island
with products for trade and plants to help settle new
locations, in effect humanizing the new environments
creating familiar and consistent forms of food.
Bowls, baskets and Red Bull
One technique used in pottery making was placing unfired
ceramics in baskets. Either this was done because the
clay in the Bahama archipelago is low quality or because
the potters liked the weaving impressions left on the clay
from the baskets. In 2017, a fragment of one of these
pots with two different weaving patterns visible on the
exterior was recovered. From the interior, I took a sample
back to the lab and discovered this bowl was special.
Based on the numerous starches recovered, I interpreted
that this ceramic bowl was used to make a fermented
(possibly alcoholic) chocolate beverage that was sweetened
with maize (corn) and spiced with chili pepper.
Another stunning discovery and new mystery was
a limestone bowl artifact. When I analyzed the sample
recovered from this artifact, the diversity of plant remains
was shocking. There was maize, cocoyam, another type
of yam and bean starches. The diversity of plants that
was processed in this bowl led to the suggestion that this
bowl was used to prepare an energizing drink. Today,
many commercial energy drinks use caffeine, sugarcane
or taurine for their sources of vitality. However, this
ancient energy drink used the carbohydrates of local
plants to provide power to those who consumed it while
living at Palmetto Junction.
Ancestry discovery
Based on collated information, the inhabitants of
Palmetto Junction were likely descendants of migrants
who arrived to the Greater Antilles centuries or millennia
before, eventually inhabiting the Turks & Caicos Islands.
They mastered the production of maize, manioc, sweet
potato, chili pepper, bean, palm, zamia and yam for food
The diversity of plants that was processed within led to the suggestion
that this bowl was used to prepare an energizing drink.
and combined them with other culinary practices rooted
in Antillean traditions of human-plant interrelationships.
Because a majority of the plants identified did not
originate in the Greater Antilles or the Bahama archipelago
and they require human assistance for cultivation,
these plants were likely a significant part of trade and
transported landscapes when brought to Providenciales.
Looking through the window of time
Before beginning this quest, I never imagined the
beauty of looking through the microscope at ancient
plant remains and the ensuing interpretations of human
behaviors. The foodways approach for archaeobotanical
investigations is knowledge I am now able to share with
the world and take an immense pleasure with this responsibility.
Archaeologists reconstruct and tell stories of life-ways
that have been forgotten or never told. The way plants
were modified at Palmetto Junction provides a glimpse
through a window in time into their daily lives. From what
was discovered, these lives were vibrant, dynamic and
highly diverse. The people investigated here were seldom
written about by early Europeans. Thus, to reconstruct
how Indigenous Caribbean Peoples lived was an effort to
valorize their heritage. The more refined descriptions of
past life-ways offer more of the story on how Caribbean
lives were and are culturally diverse, intensive and thriving.
a
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This is a rare photo of the diminutive freighter Fauna. Despite years of effort, the author has been unable to locate photos of any of the
officers or crew, even in the detailed Dutch archives.
WRECKSITE.EU
TCI in World War II
The Fauna, Part I, 1942.
By Captain Eric Wiberg, Boston, MA, eric@ericwiberg.com
What is remarkable about the sinking and the loss of the Fauna off the Turks & Caicos Islands is that
her destination was the TCI, and her survivors spent nearly three weeks essentially circumnavigating the
Islands in a lifeboat and a local sailboat over the course of an impressive 300 miles!
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astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
The Fauna was a Dutch 1,272-ton steamship constructed
in 1912 by Rijkee and Company, N.V. of
Rotterdam. Her only owners were the KNSM, or Royal
Dutch Steamship Company, of Amsterdam. By 1942, long
after the Netherlands were overrun by the Germans, the
firm was being operated out of 25 Broadway in New York
City. Her dimensions were 262 feet long, 36 feet wide
and 16 feet deep. A 800-i.h.p. triple-expansion engine
drove a four-bladed propeller which boosted the ship at
9.5 knots.
Fauna was a small ship whose cargo reflected her
size. She carried 5 barrels of gasoline and 15 barrels of
kerosene (presumably for the generators on the small
island of Grand Turk where there was a salt works), and a
full general cargo including matches, cement, machinery
and flour. The 20 barrels of gasoline and kerosene were
stowed on deck. The master was also entrusted by the
British with 22 bags of mail plus 1 bag of registered mail.
A crew of 29 men was under the command of
Captain Jacob den Heyer, a Dutchman. Four of the crew
were British, including a 42-year-old “servant” named
John White; Othniel Dickenson, aged 46, sailor; Ben Eve,
49, sailor’ and Sam Sanny, a fireman, 25, of 92 Atlantic
Avenue, Brooklyn, New York. Of the 25 Dutch men on
board, 2 of them were gunners manning a 3-inch gun aft:
Wilhelm Johann Kervezee, aged 29, and Tonnis Bierling,
aged 42. Some of the crew helped man the guns as well.
The Fauna left New York on May 6, 1942 destined for
Grand Turk, followed by a stop in Port au Prince, Haiti,
where she was to deliver some Lend-Lease cargo. The
ship was under orders of the British Naval Control and
took some 11 days to cover roughly 1,300 miles. She was
less than a day from her destination on May 17 when she
was found and intercepted by U-558 under Günther Krech
in the Caicos Passage.
The position of the subsequent attack was 22.00ºN
(or 22.10ºN) by 72.35ºW (or 72.30ºW) which is east of
Mayaguana Island, Bahamas, west of Caicos Island,
and just 10 miles or so north of Northwest Point,
Providenciales, in the Turks & Caicos. The passage is
some 30 miles wide at this point. The Captain described
it as “very narrow (about 10 miles), and . . . not generally
used as a shipping lane or route.” This is an unusual
statement given that the Fauna was, according to the
position given, in the Caicos Passage, a deep, wide shipping
channel commonly used to gain access between the
Windward Passage and the open Atlantic Ocean. Captain
den Heyer may simply have been referring to the ship’s
proximity to land, which was only 10 miles.
At seven minutes before midnight the men on watch
were no doubt anticipating their eminent relief from
duty. The ship’s course was east–northeast and speed
ten knots. It was a clear night with a slight swell and no
wind to speak of. Without the moon, visibility was one to
one-and-a-half miles. There were three lookouts on station,
one on the forecastle up forward, one manning the
gun aft, and a third on the bridge.
Günther Krech began his first patrol into The Bahamas
area aboard the U-558 on May 15. The Fauna was struck
in a channel so narrow—only ten miles wide—that the
survivors supposed that the sub must have been waiting
there for resupply. Krech was tracking the Fauna from
seaward, or the ship’s port side to the north. Suddenly a
single torpedo pierced the merchant ship’s Number Two
cargo hold, roughly two feet below the water line. The
explosion ignited the cargo of matches stowed there. The
large hole blown in the Fauna’s side immediately flooded
the number two and soon after the number one cargo
hold, then the engine and boiler rooms. Hatch covers
from both holds were blown into the air, the radio shack
and the ladder to the bridge were destroyed and the portside
motorboats were knocked clear of the ship. There
was no opportunity to send a radio distress message or
to man and train the guns.
Given the circumstances, the men behaved with
restraint commended by Captain den Heyer, particularly
Third Mate Jan Noordveld, Third Engineer Jan Rab, sailors
Nicholaas Plugge and Maarten de Jong, and Wilhelm
Johann Kervezee, a gunner, who “stayed on board to
see everything clear” and in doing so perished. Soon the
Fauna was listing to starboard at an alarming 26º, then
30º. The men on watch grabbed personal papers and
some cash and made their escape. Within ten minutes, 27
men had leapt into the water or clambered into the only
remaining lifeboat—the one from starboard. Just before
midnight, and only five minutes after the attack, the men
in the water saw U-558 approaching from the starboard
beam. Krech brought the submarine to within three quarters
of a mile, kept it darkened and circled the bow of the
stricken ship. When U-558 made it to the port quarter,
aft of the beam, it switched on its searchlight to help the
men in the water make it to the boat.
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23°N
73°30'W
73°W
72°30'W
72°W
71°30'W
71°W
70°30'W
22°30'N
22°N
21°30'N
21°N
0 25
50
0 25 50
Inagua
Mayaguana
Abraham”s Bay
U-558
inbound
FAUNA
approach
West
Caicos
*
FAUNA sunk
midnight 17 Mar.
FAUNA men 19 Mar.
Middle
Caicos
East
Caicos
FAUNA men
21-27 Mar.
Turks and Caicos
Islands
Grand
Turk
Cockburn Town
This map details the route of the Fauna and location of its sinking in the Turks & Caicos Islands.
Then the sub circled the lifeboat and asked for the
name, tonnage and destination. One officer came down
to the deck to do the questioning, which he did in English.
Den Heyer responded in German, but still there was a
misunderstanding about the spelling of the Fauna, and
the Germans ended up writing “Towa” instead of the correct
name. After this brief interrogation the sub motored
through the wreckage and then set off in a northeasterly
direction, submerging as it did so at five minutes after
midnight, twelve minutes after the attack.
As the lifeboat set about gathering survivors from the
water, Fauna performed a death-roll. A heavy explosion
rocked the ship, on which six men remained—this was
possibly a boiler exploding when the sea water hit it. At
first the ship stayed on course, but then it veered to starboard.
Finally, after roughly 50 minutes, at 43 minutes
past midnight on May 18, the Fauna rolled over to port,
the side with a gaping hole in it, and sank quickly.
The Germans did not attempt to board the blazing
wreck. Of the six men who remained on board, four of
them—Noorduelt, Rab, Plugge, and de Jong—managed
to escape and swim to the lifeboat. Keverzee, of the
Royal Dutch Navy, who had been born in Rotterdam on
August 22, 1912 and was 29 years old, drowned, as did
G. C. van Baardwyk, aged 40, a trimmer from the engine
room. Both men were seen on deck by their crewmates
just before the sinking. Captain den Heyer observed, “It
is believed they went back below, and were trapped.”
Once they had collected all 27 survivors, the men set
out for the nearest land. Strictly speaking this would have
been Northwest Point, Providenciales, however winds and
currents pushed the lifeboat west and south. As a result,
they managed to make landfall on the unpopulated island
of West Caicos, at 11:00 AM on Monday, May 18. There
appears to have been a settlement named Yankee Town
near Lake Catherine, but den Heyer and his men “found
no people there.”
The same day, the lifeboats set off to the north, and
after 14 miles they rounded Northwest Point and headed
southeast, looking for signs of habitation. While they
were underway, the boats were discovered by two local
fishing boats. Captain Ralph A. Ewing, owner and skipper
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astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
island midwife, who was the senior caregiver in the community.
Doris Ewing relates that her “mother and aunts
and other men and women, from North-side, bandaged
them up and fed them.” Local historian Sherlin Williams
relates that “The midwife was the only healthcare giver to
be found in each of the three settlements . . . No young
women in the entire island during those days would have
been allowed to be exposed to naked men. Only mature
persons in age bracket of the wives of boat owners,
whose children were already grown, would have been in
direct contact in their condition.” a
TO BE CONTINUED . . .
This is an image of boat builder and former Deputy Chief Minister the
late Hilly Arthur Ewing (1930–2020), around the time the Fauna survivors
were rescued after rounding Northwest Point, Providenciales.
Eric Wiberg has operated over 100 yachts, many of them
as captain. A licensed master since 1995, he is qualified
as a maritime lawyer, with a Master’s in Marine Affairs, a
year at Oxford and a certificate in screenwriting. He commercially
operated nine tankers from Singapore, worked
for two salvage firms, and was an executive head-hunter,
shipping newspaper salesman and tug-boat fleet marketer.
He has published over a dozen books of nautical
non-fiction. A citizen of US and Sweden who grew up in
the Bahamas, he lives in Boston near son Felix.
Contact: eric@ericwiberg.com.
of the schooner Sister E. (also known as The Sisters), was
the first one back to shore at 1:00 AM on Tuesday, May
19. The local craft, weighing 10 tons and built in Blue
Hills in 1922, was loaded with roughly half of the Fauna
crew.
According to historian Kendall Butler, “the Ewing family
was prominent in High Rock, Blue Hills, Providenciales.
Hilly Arthur Ewing [was a] boat builder.” Doris Ewing was
nine years old at the time and remembers her father
Captain William Ewing returning to Blue Hills aboard his
boat The Flirt, with the balance of Fauna’s survivors. She
says that “the boats used to go down by Inagua and the
Caicos Passage to look for food and clothes floating in
the sea that came from torpedoed ships.” In this instance
the Islanders discovered more than they expected in the
jetsam of war.
The men were found in poor condition—cut up and
bruised—and several of them were naked and covered
in oil. The children were kept at a discrete distance from
them. Captain Ralph enlisted the help of his wife to clean
them up, and they would have enlisted the help of the
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Museum Matters
COVID-19 and the Museum
Like the rest of the world, the Turks & Caicos National
Museum has been adversely affected by the global
pandemic. During this time, we have had to close our
doors along with canceling all of our upcoming fundraising
and community events. However, we have used
this “pause” to plan an expansion of our educational
and outreach programming. Details will be provided in
future editions of the Astrolabe and on the Museum’s
website, www.tcmuseum.org.
Although, the TCI Government has announced dates
for the reopening of the country’s borders, we are
unable to give a definitive date for the reopening of the
Museum on Providenciales and Grand Turk. a
From top: Students from the Charles Hubert James Primary School
in North Caicos visited the Museum’s Grace Bay campus during
Education Week 2020.
Under Daphne Forbes’s expert guidance, students at her basket
weaving course learned the traditional art quickly.
Education Week 2020
Annually, the TCI Department of Education celebrates
Education Week during the first week in March. What
resonated with me this year was the theme, “Learning
has no bounds.” At that time, we did not realize how
truly relevant that phrase would be on so many levels,
given our current reality of the COVID-19 pandemic.
During Education Week, many of our teachers
brought their students to the Museum’s campus in
Grace Bay, Providenciales. We found our Lucayan Kit
to be a great resource in explaining the story of the
Lucayans, first inhabitants of the Islands. Museum
Director Dr. Michael Pateman is one of the persons who
was instrumental in creating this kit—the first of many
educational aids the Museum will be introducing to
highlight aspects of the TCI’s history.
Special thanks to Ms. Emily Malcolm and Mrs. Daphne
Forbes for lively tours of the Heritage Homestead, a lifestyle
reminiscent of “Back in the Day” that depicts the
cultural heritage of these Islands. The Museum is proud
to play its role in the education of our youth. a
Keeping tradition alive
We are delighted to have Mrs. Daphne Forbes share her
knowledge of the art of weaving. This traditional craft
is very dear to her and as she teaches the classes, her
passion is most evident. I look forward to seeing the
smile that lights up her face as she teaches. Our summer
campers say the basket weaving class is one of the
highlights of camp.
Before the COVID-19 shutdown, a basket weaving
class was offered at the Museum’s Heritage House
in Grace Bay, Providenciales. Some of our visitors in
March who opted to take the class were delighted to
immerse themselves in the traditional art—and they got
the hang of it quickly. One of the students remarked
that although she was not an “artsy” person, that was
not apparent under Mrs. Forbes’s patient direction.
Participants enjoyed the class and made their very own
authentic souvenirs. a
Story & Photos By Candianne Williams
Times of the Islands Summer 2020 95

to do
STEPHANIE WALLWORK
Staycation
Now is the time to enjoy TCI for yourself!
Compiled by Kathy Borsuk
As we published this magazine (June 17), the Turks & Caicos Islands borders were still closed. We anticipate
the Providenciales International Airport to reopen to international flights on July 22. With the impact
of COVID-19 on TCI’s tourist industry still uncertain, we realize local businesses (and residents) must be
creative and flexible.
If you live on-island, why not consider celebrating special occasions such as weddings, graduations
and milestone birthdays and anniversaries here, instead of planning travel abroad? (Utilize proper social
distancing and health protocol, of course.)
At the same time, this is an ideal opportunity for you to try out sporting activities that you may never
have had the time or motivation to pursue. With no tourists around, operators can focus on you! And,
you are doing your part to support and encourage local businesses during these challenging times. Take
a look at the specials submitted to us this month.
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STEPHANIE WALLWORK
AQUA TCI was formed to encompass all the great
dive practices that Stephanie and Bill Wallwork, the
founders, have seen and experienced from diving
around the world. TCI’s diverse aquatic wildlife,
clear waters, relaxed diving and chilled lifestyle
provide the ideal location for them to share with
you their passion.
AQUA TCI (the #1 of 145 tours on TripAdvisor)
are pleased to offer the following to residents only
(blackout dates apply):
Free rental equipment for all bookings made by
July 22, 2020 and special offer private charter
prices.
Contact us at www.aquatci.com or at aquatci@
live.com or call (649) 432-2782 for availability and
prices.
Silly Creek Water Sports is the highest ranked private
charter on TripAdvisor.
We are offering a special two-hour private
charter for up to six guests, an opportunity to
explore the remote south- and west-side Nature
Reserve, areas where no one else can take you. We
have two packages: 1) Visit iguanas (Bay Cay location)
and cliff jump, Pirate’s Cave and Frenchman’s
Creek Estuary or 2) Pirates’ Cave, west coast cruise
and snorkel in the west coast Nature Reserve.
Cost: $616 including tax, maximum six
guests, beverages included. As well, we are offering
a resident’s discount to our regular private
charters. Offers good until November 15. 2020.
Contact us for details at www.sillycreekwatersports.com
or call (649) 432-9456.
Caicos Adventures is one of the oldest scuba diving
operations, boat and snorkeling tours and charters
operation in Turks & Caicos. They have prospered by
focusing on excellence in quality and service. Since the
early days in Provo, they have explored and discovered
many dive sites. Owner/founder/operator Philippe
“Fifi” Kunz came from a true diving background, growing
up in Cannes in the French Riviera.
From deep sea wall diving to snorkeling, Caicos
Adventures is a perfect dive operation for your scuba
diving experience. Private boat charters are available,
as well.
Fifi is offering a residents’ special of 20% OFF
on our tours and activities.
For details, call (649) 941-3346 or email divucrzy@tciway.tc.
For more information visit www.
caicosadventures.com.
Times of the Islands Summer 2020 97

As of May 11, local restaurants were able to provide
take-out (and in some instances, delivery) fare. On
July 6, dine-in services will be available, following
health protocols.
Following is a list of some of Providenciales’
restaurants currently offering take-out menus. Call
your favorite eatery to see if they are doing the
same.
You found the one. Now let us help you find the
ring!
Discover Jai’s unique collection of engagement
rings and wedding bands. The possibilities
are endless, whether you choose a ring from our
extensive selection or you work with one of our
specialists to design a custom ring that showcases
your own unique style. Choose a setting, perhaps
from Tacori or Hearts on Fire, pick your diamond,
and make it YOURS!
Jai’s would love to help you as you select
your ring(s), or create a one-of-a-kind design to
share for generations.
Visit Jai’s located in the Regent Village to speak
with one of our specialists to browse engagement
rings, find your wedding bands, or get styling
advice. OR, connect with us online via email at
info@jais.tc.
Angela’s Top O the Cove Deli (Bayview Plaza):
946-4694
Big Al’s (Saltmills): 941-3797
Kalooki’s (Le Vele Plaza): 332-3388
The Patty Place (Le Petit Place): 339-9001
Parallel 23/Sui-Ren (The Palms): 232-3105
Thai Orchid (Regent Village): 946-4491
Lemon Flowers/Sandbox (Regent Village):
232-4109
Le Comptoir Francais (Regent Village): 244-1134
or 946-5299
Hole in the Wall (Downtown): 941-4136
Cocovan (Grace Bay Road): 946-5369
The Terrace on Grace Bay: 339-3777 or 941-7447
Sharkbite Bar & Grill (Turtle Cove): 941-5090
Baci Ristorante (Turtle Cove): 941-3044
Paparazzi (Turtle Cove): 332-2810
Mango Reef (Turtle Cove Marina): 946-8200
Turks Kebab (Alverna’s Craft Market): 431-9964
Pizza Pizza (Cinema Plaza): 941-3577
Bun’s Burger Bar (Leeward Highway): 431-2867
Remember: Your support can keep
these businesses going!
98 www.timespub.tc

about the Islands
Map provided courtesy Wavey Line Publishing. Their navigation charts and decorative and historic maps of the Turks & Caicos Islands, The
Bahamas, and Hispaniola are available in shops throughout the Islands. Visit www.amnautical.com.
Where we are
The Turks & Caicos Islands lie some 575 miles southeast
of Miami — approximately 1 1/2 hours flying time —
with The Bahamas about 30 miles to the northwest and
the Dominican Republic some 100 miles to the southeast.
The country consists of two island groups separated
by the 22-mile wide Columbus Passage. To the west are
the Caicos Islands: West Caicos, Providenciales, North
Caicos, Middle Caicos, East Caicos, and South Caicos. To
the east are the Turks Islands: Grand Turk and Salt Cay.
The Turks & Caicos total 166 square miles of land
area on eight islands and 40 small cays. The country’s
population is approximately 43,000.
Getting here
There are international airports on Grand Turk,
Providenciales, and South Caicos, with domestic airports
on all of the islands except East Caicos.
As a result of the COVID-19 pandemic, the country’s
borders are scheduled to reopen on July 22, 2020.
Anticipated flights to the Providenciales International
Airport during the summer include: American Airlines
twice daily from Miami and daily from Charlotte; JetBlue
Airways daily service from New York/JFK and from Fort
Lauderdale on Sunday, Tuesday and Friday; Delta Airlines
daily from Atlanta; United Airlines daily from Newark
and from Chicago and Houston on Saturday; WestJet
from Toronto on Saturday; Air Canada from Toronto on
Saturday and from Montreal on Sunday.
Times of the Islands Summer 2020 99

British Airways typically travels from London/Gatwick
via Antigua.
Bahamasair and InterCaribbean Airways fly to Nassau,
Bahamas. Flights to: Antigua; Dominica; Cap Haitien
and Port Au Prince, Haiti; Kingston and Montego Bay,
Jamaica; Miami, Florida; Puerto Plata and Santo Domingo,
Dominican Republic; San Juan, Puerto Rico; St. Lucia; St.
Maarten; Santiago, Cuba; and Tortola are typically available
on InterCaribbean Airways, while Caicos Express
travels to Cap Haitien. (Schedules are as anticipated as
of mid-June 2020 and subject to change. Check with the
airlines for most accurate information.)
Inter-island service is provided by InterCaribbean
Airways, Caicos Express Airways and Global Airways. Sea
and air freight services operate from Florida.
Language
English.
Time zone
Eastern Standard Time (EST)/Daylight Savings Time
observed.
Currency
The United States dollar. The Treasury also issues a Turks
& Caicos crown and quarter. Travellers cheques in U.S.
dollars are widely accepted and other currency can be
changed at local banks. American Express, VISA, and
MasterCard are welcomed at many locations.
Climate
The average year-round temperature is 83ºF (28ºC). The
hottest months are September and October, when the
temperature can reach 90 to 95ºF (33 to 35ºC). However,
the consistent easterly trade winds temper the heat and
keep life comfortable.
Casual resort and leisure wear is accepted attire for
daytime; light sweaters or jackets may be necessary on
some breezy evenings. It’s wise to wear protective clothing
and a sunhat and use waterproof sunscreen when out
in the tropical sun.
Entry requirements
Passport. A valid onward or return ticket is also required.
Customs formalities
Visitors may bring in duty free for their own use one carton
of cigarettes or cigars, one bottle of liquor or wine,
and some perfume. The importation of all firearms including
those charged with compressed air without prior
approval in writing from the Commissioner of Police is
strictly forbidden. Spear guns, Hawaiian slings, controlled
drugs, and pornography are also illegal.
Returning residents may bring in $400 worth of
merchandise per person duty free. A duty of 10% to
60% is charged on most imported goods along with a
7% customs processing fee and forms a major source of
government revenue.
Transportation
A valid driver’s license from home is suitable when renting
vehicles. A government tax of 12% is levied on all
rental contracts. (Insurance is extra.) Driving is on the
left-hand side of the road, with traffic flow controlled by
round-abouts at major junctions. Please don’t drink and
drive! Taxis and community cabs are abundant through-
100 www.timespub.tc

out the Islands and many resorts offer shuttle service
between popular visitor areas. Scooter, motorcycle, and
bicycle rentals are also available.
Telecommunications
FLOW Ltd. provides land lines and superfast broadband
Internet service. Mobile service is on a LTE 4G network,
including pre- and post-paid cellular phones. Most resorts
and some stores and restaurants offer wireless Internet
connection. Digicel operates mobile networks, with
a full suite of LTE 4G service. FLOW is the local carrier
for CDMA roaming on US networks such as Verizon and
Sprint. North American visitors with GSM cellular handsets
and wireless accounts with AT&T or Cingular can
arrange international roaming.
Electricity
FortisTCI supplies electricity at a frequency of 60HZ,
and either single phase or three phase at one of three
standard voltages for residential or commercial service.
FortisTCI continues to invest in a robust and resilient grid
to ensure the highest level of reliability to customers. The
company is integrating renewable energy into its grid and
provides options for customers to participate in two solar
energy programs.
Departure tax
US $60. It is typically included in your airline ticket cost.
Courier service
Delivery service is provided by FedEx, with offices on
Providenciales and Grand Turk, and DHL. UPS service is
limited to incoming delivery.
Postal service
The Post Office and Philatelic Bureau in Providenciales is
located downtown on Airport Road. In Grand Turk, the
Post Office and Philatelic Bureau are on Church Folly. The
Islands are known for their varied and colorful stamp
issues.
Media
Multi-channel satellite television is received from the U.S.
and Canada and transmitted via cable or over the air.
Local station WIV-TV broadcasts on Channel 4 and Island
EyeTV on Channel 5. People’s Television offers 75 digitally
transmitted television stations, along with local news
and talk shows on Channel 8. There are also a number of
local radio stations, magazines, and newspapers.
Food for Thought provides free daily
breakfast to government school students.
A donation of $300 will provide breakfast
to one child for a whole school year.
To donate or learn more please
email info@foodforthoughttci.com
or visit foodforthoughttci.com
Medical services
Food for Thought Foundation Inc. (NP #102)
There are no endemic tropical diseases in TCI. There are
large, modern hospitals on Grand Turk and Providenciales.
Both hospitals offer a full range of services including:
24/7 emergency room, operating theaters, diagnostic
imaging, maternity suites, dialysis suites, blood bank,
physiotherapy, and dentistry.
In addition, several general practitioners operate in
the country, and there is a recompression chamber, along
with a number of private pharmacies.
Immigration
A resident’s permit is required to live in the Islands. A
work permit and business license are also required to
work and/or establish a business. These are generally
granted to those offering skills, experience, and qualifications
not widely available on the Islands. Priority is given
to enterprises that will provide employment and training
for T&C Islanders.
Government/Legal system
TCI is a British Crown colony. There is a Queen-appointed
Governor, HE Nigel John Dakin. He presides over an executive
council formed by the elected local government.
Times of the Islands Summer 2020 101

Lady Sharlene Cartwright-Robinson is the country’s first
woman premier, leading a majority People’s Democratic
Movement (PDM) House of Assembly.
The legal system is based upon English Common
Law and administered by a resident Chief Justice, Chief
Magistrate, and Deputy Magistrates. Judges of the Court
of Appeal visit the Islands twice a year and there is a final
Right of Appeal to Her Majesty’s Privy Council in London.
Taxes
There are currently no direct taxes on either income
or capital for individuals or companies. There are no
exchange controls. Indirect taxation comprises customs
duties and fees, stamp duty, taxes on accommodations,
restaurants, vehicle rentals, other services and gasoline,
as well as business license fees and departure taxes.
Economy
Historically, TCI’s economy relied on the export of salt.
Currently, tourism, the offshore finance industry, and
fishing generate the most private sector income. The
Islands’ main exports are lobster and conch. Practically
all consumer goods and foodstuffs are imported.
The Turks & Caicos Islands are recognised as an
important offshore financial centre, offering services
such as company formation, offshore insurance, banking,
trusts, limited partnerships, and limited life companies.
The Financial Services Commission regulates the industry
and spearheads the development of offshore legislation.
People
Citizens of the Turks & Caicos Islands are termed
“Belongers” and are primarily descendants of African
slaves who were brought to the Islands to work in the
salt ponds and cotton plantations. The country’s large
expatriate population includes Canadians, Americans,
Brits and Europeans, along with Haitians, Jamaicans,
Dominicans, Bahamians, Indians, and Filipinos.
Churches
Churches are the center of community life and there
are many faiths represented in the Islands including:
Adventist, Anglican, Assembly of God, Baha’i, Baptist,
Catholic, Church of God, Episcopal, Jehovah’s Witnesses,
Methodist and Pentecostal. Visitors are always welcome.
Pets
Incoming pets must have an import permit, veterinary
health certificate, vaccination certificate, and lab test
results to be submitted at the port of entry to obtain
clearance from the TCI Department of Agriculture, Animal
Health Services.
National symbols
The National Bird is the Brown pelican (Pelecanus occidentalis).
The National Plant is Island heather (Limonium
bahamense) found nowhere else in the world. The
National Tree is the Caribbean pine (Pinus caribaea var.
bahamensis). The National Costume consists of white cot-
102 www.timespub.tc

ton dresses tied at the waist for women and simple shirts
and loose pants for men, with straw hats. Colors representing
the various islands are displayed on the sleeves
and bases. The National Song is “This Land of Ours” by
the late Rev. E.C. Howell, PhD. Peas and Hominy (Grits)
with Dry Conch is revered as symbolic island fare.
Going green
TCI Waste Disposal Services currently offers recycling
services through weekly collection of recyclable aluminum,
glass, and plastic. Single-use plastic bags have been
banned country-wide as of May 1, 2019.
Recreation
Sporting activities are centered around the water. Visitors
can choose from deep-sea, reef, or bonefishing, sailing,
glass-bottom boat and semi-sub excursions, windsurfing,
waterskiing, parasailing, sea kayaking, snorkelling, scuba
diving, kiteboarding, stand up paddleboarding, and
beachcombing. Pristine reefs, abundant marine life, and
excellent visibility make TCI a world-class diving destination.
Tennis and golf—there is an 18 hole championship
course on Providenciales—are also popular.
The Islands are an ecotourist’s paradise. Visitors can
enjoy unspoilt wilderness and native flora and fauna in 33
national parks, nature reserves, sanctuaries, and areas of
historical interest. The National Trust provides trail guides
to several hiking trails, as well as guided tours of major
historical sites. There is an excellent national museum on
Grand Turk, with an auxillary branch on Providenciales. A
scheduled ferry and a selection of tour operators make it
easy to take day trips to the outer islands.
Other land-based activities include bicycling, horseback
riding and football (soccer). Personal trainers are
available to motivate you, working out of several fitness
centres. You will also find a variety of spa and body treatment
services.
Nightlife includes local bands playing island music
at bars and restaurants and some nightclubs. There is
a casino on Providenciales, along with many electronic
gaming parlours. Stargazing is extraordinary!
Shoppers will find Caribbean paintings, T-shirts,
sports and beachwear, and locally made handicrafts,
including straw work and conch crafts. Duty free outlets
sell liquor, jewellery, watches, perfume, leather goods,
crystal, china, cameras, electronics, brand-name clothing
and accessories, along with Cuban cigars. a
subscription form
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Times of the Islands Summer 2020 103

where to stay
104 www.timespub.tc

where to stay
Times of the Islands Summer 2020 105

dining
106 www.timespub.tc

dining
Times of the Islands Summer 2020 107

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Community Fellowship Centre
A Life-Changing Experience
Sunday Divine Worship 9 AM
Visitors Welcome!
Tel: 649.941.3484 • Web: cfctci.com
Vacation Villa Rentals
Joanne Phillips, Turks & Caicos Safari
www.tcsafari.com
Call: 1-904-491-1415
Email: tcsafari@tcsafari.com
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DEPENDABLE VEHICLE HIRE
SERVICE OFFERED:
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Office: 946-4684
Amos: 441-2667 (after hours)
Yan: 247-6755 (after hours)
Bob: 231-0262 (after hours)
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Grace Bay Road across from Regent Street
Fun Friendly People
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108 www.timespub.tc

SUSTAINABLE
ENERGY
You Can
Count On
R-NETS: A roadmap for
TCI’s energy future
Solar integration
to the FortisTCI grid
We’re building partnerships to deliver a more sustainable
energy future for the Turks and Caicos Islands.
With the Resilient National Energy Transition
Strategy (R-NETS) serving as a roadmap, and with
new and ongoing investments in solar energy
generation, solar plus battery pilot project, and
an electric vehicle and charging station project,
FortisTCI is working every day to deliver resilient,
cost-effective and environmentally sustainable
energy, to fuel growth and development.
Solar + battery storage
pilot project
Electric vehicle
pilot project
www.fortistci.com | 649-946-4313 |

The Leading Private Bank in the Turks and Caicos Islands
Where values are growing
Wealth Management • Bonds/Fixed Income
Investment Strategies • Foreign Exchange
Stocks/Equities • Precious Metals
Fixed deposits/CD’s • International Transfers
Turks & Caicos Banking Company Ltd.
The Regent Village, Unit H102, Grace Bay Road, Providenciales
Tel: +649 941 4994
Email: services@tcbc.tc • www.tcbc.tc
Regulated by the Financial Services Commission, Turks & Caicos Islands